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LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 

 
CURIOSITIES 
 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 EXHIBITING THE MOST 
 
 ARE AND REMARKABLE OBJECTS OF INTEREST 
 IN THE METROPOLIS ; 
 
 ' personal BerolUrtiotts. 
 
 BY JOHN TIMES, F.S.A. 
 
 AUTHOR OF A PICTURESQUE PROMENADE ROUND DORKIKO ; AND EDITOE OF 
 LACONICS, THE YEAR-BOOK OF FACT8, ETC. 
 
 Charter granted by William the Conqnerpr'to the City of 
 ^ 1067 (See pa 
 
 LONDO 
 
 A R 
 
 UNIVERSITY Of 
 
 : CALIFORNIA 
 
 DAVID BOGUE, 86 F&EET STREET. 
 
 MDCCCLV. 
 
r 
 
 PRINTED BY LEVBY, ROBSOX, AVD FEASKLYS, 
 Great New Street rnd Fetter Lane. 
 
c 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 LITTLE need be said to bespeak the interest of readers in the staple 
 of the present work the Notable Things in the History of London 
 through its Nineteen Centuries of accredited antiquity. Still, I am 
 anxious to offer a few words upon the origin and growth of this 
 volume; and the means by which I have striven to render it as 
 complete as the extent and ever- varying nature of the subject will 
 allow. 
 
 Twenty-seven years since (in 1828), I wrote in the parlour of 
 the house No. 3 Charing Cross (then a publisher's), the title and 
 plan of a volume to be called " CURIOSITIES OF LONDON ;" and the 
 work here submitted to the public is the realisation of that design. 
 I then proposed to note the most memorable points in. the annals of 
 the Metropolis, and to describe its most remarkable objects of in- 
 terest, from the earliest period to my own time, for the Present 
 has its " Curiosities" as well as the Past. Since the commencement 
 of this design in 1828, precisely midway in my lifetime, I have 
 scarcely for a day or hour lost sight of the subject; but, through a 
 long course of literary activity,* have endeavoured to profit by every 
 fair opportunity to increase my stock of materials ; and by constant 
 comparison, " not to take for granted, but to weigh and consider," 
 in turning such materials to account. In this labour I have been 
 greatly aided by the communications of obliging friends, as well 
 as by my own recollection of nearly Fifty Years' Changes in the 
 aspects of " enlarged and still increasing London." 
 
 " Thinking how different a place London is to different people," 
 I have, in this volume, studied many tastes ; but its leading cha- 
 
 * WORKS BY THE AUTHOR OF THE PRESENT VOLUME : A Picturesque Pro- 
 menade round Dorking in Surrey, 1822. The same, 2d edit., 1823. Laconics; 
 or, the Best Words of the Best Authors, 3 vols. 1826. Mirror, edited, 1827-1838 
 (Twenty-two vols.). Signs before Death, 1828. Cameleon Sketches, 1828. 
 Companion to the Theatres, 1829 Arcana of Science and Art, 1828-1838 
 (Eleven vols.). Wine-drinker's Manual, 1830. Family Manual, 1831. Know- 
 ledge for the People ; or, the Plain Why and Because, 4 vols. 1831-2. Popular 
 Zoology, 1834. Domestic Life in England, 1835. The Instructor, Vol. 2 (written 
 for the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge), 1835. Family Handbook, 
 1837. -Literary World, 3 vols. 1839, 1840. London Anecdotes, 2 vols. 1848. 
 Illustrated Year-book, 2 vols. 1850, 1851. Wellingtoniana, 1852. Year-book of 
 Facts, 1839-1855. (Seventeen vols.) 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 racteristics will be found to consist in what Addison's Freeholdei\ 
 calls " the Curiosities of this great Town." Their bibliographical 
 illustration, by quotations from Old Poets and Dramatists, Tra- 
 vellers and Diarists, presents a sort of literary chequer-work of anj 
 entertaining and anecdotic character ; and these historic glimpseq 
 are brought into vivid contrast with the Social Statistics and other 
 Great Facts of the London of to-day. 
 
 The plan of the book is in the main alphabetical. Districts and lo- 
 calities are, however, topographically described ; the arrangement oJ 
 streets being generally in a sub-alphabet. The Birth-places, Abodes, 
 and Burial-places of Eminent Persons so many sites of charmed 
 ground are specially noted, as are existing Antiquities, Collec- 
 tions of Eare Art and Virtu, Public Buildings, Koyal and Noble 
 Residences, Great Institutions, Public Amusements and Exhibi- 
 tions, and Industrial Establishments; so to chronicle the renown 
 of Modern as well as Ancient London. The articles describing the 
 Churches, Exchanges, Halls, Libraries and Museums, Palaces and 
 Parks, Parliament-Houses, Roman Remains, and the Tower of 
 London, are, from their importance, most copious in their details. 
 
 The utmost pains has been taken to verify dates, names, and 
 circumstances ; and it is trusted that no errors may be found 
 in addition to those noted at the close of the volume, with the 
 changes in the Metropolis during the progress of the printing 
 of the work.* The reader, it is hoped, will regard these inaccuracies 
 with indulgence, when the immense number of facts sought to be 
 recorded in this volume is considered. Lastly, it has been my aim 
 to render the " Curiosities" useful as well as entertaining, and with 
 that view are introduced several matters of practical information 
 for Londoners as well as visitors. 
 
 JOHN TIMES. 
 
 88 SLOANE-STREET, CHELSEA, 
 Jan. 16, 1855. 
 
 * See ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, pp. 782-784. 
 
 THE FRONTISPIECE. This Portrait has been engraved from a painting by 
 Thomas John Gullick ; exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1854, and pronounced 
 to be the work of an artist of great promise. 
 
 THE VIGNETTE. This Charter, described at page 460, is in English as follows : 
 
 " William the King friendly salutes William the Bishop, and Godfrey the 
 Portreve, and all ths Burgesses within London, both French and English. And 
 I declare, that I grant you to b" all law worthy, as you were in the days of King 
 Edward; and I grant that every child shall be his father's heir, after his father's 
 days; and I wiU not suffer any person to do you wrong. God keep you." 
 
SUBSCRIBERS TO THE PRESENT WORK. 
 
 Irs GRACE THE DUKE OF NORFOLK, K.G. Norfolk House, St. James' s-square. 
 
 Iis GRACE THE DUKE OF SUTHERLAND, K.G. Stafford House, St. James's. 
 HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND, Stafford House, St. James's. 
 THE MOST HON. THE MARQUIS OF LANSDOWNE, K.G., D.C.L., F.R.S. Lansdowne 
 House, Berkeley-square. 
 
 THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARLISLE, F.R.S. L. Grosvenor-place. 
 
 THE RIGHT HON. LORD LONDESBOROUGH, K.C.H., F.R.S. , F.S.A. Carlton-House- 
 terrace. 
 
 THE LORD EDWARD GEORGE FITZALAN HOWARD, M.P. Rutland Gate. 
 THE RIGHT HON. LORD BRAYBROOKE, LL.D., F.S.A. New Burlington-street. 
 SIB EDWARD BULWER LYTTON, BART., M P. Ktiebworth, Herts. 
 
 JIEUT.-GENERAL SIR HKNRY G. W. SMITH, BART..G.C.B. Plymouth. 
 THE RIGHT HON. F. G. MOON- LORD MAYOR, F.S.A. Four copies. 
 SIB CHARLES BARRY, R.A , F.R.S. Old Palace-yard. 
 
 SIR JOSEPH PAXTON, M.P , F.L.S. Sydenham. 
 
 SIB J. BERNARD BURKE, ULSTER KING-AT-ARMS, Record Tower, Dublin Castle. 
 
 Abraham, H. R. Esq. Howard-street, Strand. 
 
 Ainsworth, W. Harrison, Esq. Arundel- terrace, Kemp Town, Brighton: 
 
 Angell, C. F. Esq. F.S.A. Grove-lane, Camber-well. 
 
 Ashton, Henry, Esq. Great George-street, Westminster. 
 
 Badger, Benjamin, Esq Eastwood House, Rotherham. 
 
 Badger, Joseph, Esq Rotherham. 
 
 Badger. Thomas S Esq. Lincoln's Inn. 
 
 Baker, Edward D. Esq. Newcastle-street, Strand. 
 
 Bank of England Library and Literary Association. 
 
 Barnard, Samuel, Esq. Holborn-hill. 
 
 Barnett, Miss, Morningt^n-crescent, Hampstead-road. 
 
 Batt, James S. Esq. Oxford street. 
 
 Battam, Thomas, Esq F.S.A. Heron Cross, Stoke-upon-Trent. 
 
 Bayley, W. H. Esq. Madras. 
 
 Bell, Robert, Esq F.S.A. The Nook, Irthington, Cumberland. 
 
 Bennett, Miss, Sloane-street. Two copies. 
 
 Bennoch, Francis, Esq. Blackheath Park. 
 
 Bleaden, John, Esq. The Monument, London. 
 
 Britton, John, Esq. Burton-street, Burton-crescent. 
 
 Brooks, Shirley, Esq. New Inn. 
 
 Buckstone, J. B. Esq. Suffolk-street, Pall Mall East. Two copies. 
 
 Burges, Alfred, Esq. F S A. Blackheath. 
 
 Bury, Talbot, Esq. Welbeck-street, Cavendish-square. 
 
 Cabbell, Benjamin Bond, Esq M.P. Portland place. Two copies. 
 
 Calder, George A. Esq. Bathurst-street, Hyde Park. 
 
 Carter, Mr. Alderman, Comhill. 
 
 Caslon, H. W. Esq. Chiswell-street, Flnsbury. 
 
 Chaffers, W. juu. Esq. F.S.A. Old Bond-street. 
 
VI LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Churchill, H. Blencowe, Esq. Raymond-buildings, Gray's Inn. 
 
 Cole, Henry, Esq. C.B. Gore House, Kensington. 
 
 Cooke, Nathaniel, Esq. Ladbroke-terrace, Notting-hill. 
 
 Collingridge, W. H. Esq. Long-lane, Smithfield. Two copies. 
 
 Collins, Samuel, Esq. Denmark-hill. 
 
 Cooper, C. H. Esq. F.S.A. Town Clerk of Cambridge. 
 
 Crace, F. Esq. Vine Cottag*. Blythe-lane, Hammersmith. 
 
 Crossley, Luke T. Esq. Hankelow Hall, Nantwich, Cheshire. 
 
 u Crowquill, Alfred." Portland-place North, Clapham-road. 
 
 Cunningham, Peter, Esq F S.A. Victoria-road, Kensington. 
 
 Dalziel, Edward, Esq. Camden-street North. 
 
 Dalziel, George, Esq. Albert-street, Mornington-crescent. 
 
 Davies, Robert, Esq. F.S.A. The Mount, York. 
 
 Delamotte, Philip H. Esq. F.S.A. Newton-road, Bayswater. 
 
 Dick, W. Robertson. Esq. Simsby, Derby. 
 
 Dodd, John, Esq. Bickmansworth, Herts. 
 
 Doudney, Rev. J. A. Bonmahon, Waterford, Ireland. Two copies. 
 
 Duncan, Edward, Esq. Momington-place, Hampstead-road, 
 
 Dyott, Captain John P Knowle Lodge, Lichfield 
 
 Edwards, F. Howarth, Esq. Gloucester-place, Kentish Town. 
 
 Edwards, James Alton, Esq. Camden-road Villas. 
 
 Evans, Edmund, Esq. Riquet court, Fleet-street. 
 
 Fairholt, F. W. Esq. F.S A. Mon'pellier-square, Brompton. 
 
 Fitz-Cook, Henry, Esq. New Ormond-street, Queen-square. 
 
 Fletcher, Angus, Esq. Oxton. Tadcaster, York. 
 
 Forteath, G. A Esq. Bunny Park, Notts. 
 
 Foster, Birket, Esq Clifton-road, St. John's Wood. 
 
 Francis, Charles Larkin, Esq Eccleston-square. 
 
 Fuller, Francis, Esq. Abingdon-street, Westminster. 
 
 Garle, Thomas, Esq. Hamilton-terrace, St. John's Wood. 
 
 Gatty, Robert, Esq. Angel court, Throgmorton-strset. 
 
 Geldard, John, Esq. Great Portland street. 
 
 Geldard, Mrs. Norman terract, Willington-road, Clapham. 
 
 Gener, R. Esq. Osnaburg-terrace, Regent's Park. 
 Gibson, W. Sidney, Esq. F S.A. Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 
 
 Gilbert, John, Esq. Blickheath. Two copies. 
 
 Gilks, Thomas, Esq. Fleet-street. 
 
 Glaisher, James, Esq. F.R.S. Lewisham. 
 
 Godsell, George, Esq. Magdalen Hall, Oxford. 
 
 Godwin, George, Esq. F.R.S., F.S.A. Alexander-square, Brompton. 
 
 Gooch, John, Esq. River-terrace, Islington. 
 
 Gould, John, Esq. F.R S., F.L.S Broad-street, Golden-square. 
 
 Gruneisen, C. Lewis, Esq. Surrey- street, Strand. 
 
 Gullick, Thomas, Esq. Pall Mall. 
 
 Gullick, Thomas John, Esq Sloane-street. 
 
 Gutch, John, Esq. Clifton Villas. Warwick-road, Paddington. 
 
 Gwilt, George, Esq. F.S.A. Union-street, Southwark. 
 
 Haes, John, Esq. Park-road, Stockwell. 
 
 Hall, S. Carter, Esq. F.S.A. Lancaster-place, Strand. 
 
 Halliwell, J. O. Esq. F.R.S., F.S.A. Avenue Lodge, Brixton-hitt. 
 
 Hands, Decimus, Esq. Dors t-square. 
 
 Harding, C. T. Esq. Clifford-street, Bond-street. 
 
 Hardy, Benjamin, Esq Brompton. 
 
 Hargreaves, E. H. Esq. Upper Spring-street, Portman-square. 
 
 
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Vll 
 
 Harvey, C. S. Esq. Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Harvey, William, Esq. The Vineyard, Richmond. 
 
 Hawkins, Walter, Esq. P.S.A. Leonard-place, Kensington. 
 
 Heigham, T. Esq. Grove-place, Brompton. 
 
 Hewitt, John, Esq. Office of Ordnance, Pall Mall. 
 
 Hill, Heniy, Esq. Garrick Club. 
 
 Hoare, Charles, Esq. Edenbridge, Kent. 
 
 Hogg, Jabez, Esq. Gower-street, Bedford -square. 
 
 Hope, A. J. B. Beresford, Esq. F.S.A. Arklow House, Connaught-place. 
 
 Three copies. 
 
 Hope, Henry Thomas, Esq. Piccadilly. Five copies. 
 Huddlestone, J. W. Esq. Garrick Club. 
 Ingram, Herbert, Esq. F.S.A. Strand. Two copies. 
 Jackson, Mason, Esq. Cardington-street, Hampstead-road. 
 Jay, Captain, Regent-street. 
 
 Jerdein, John Inglis, Esq. St. Gear yes- terrace, Hyde Park Corner. 
 Jerrold. Douglas, Esq. Circus-road, St. John's Wood. 
 Keon, Miles Gerald, Esq. Oxford- terrace, Hyde Park. 
 Landells, Ebetiezer, Esq Holford-square, Pentonv'dle. 
 Langford, J. M. Esq. Raymond-buildings, Gray's Inn. 
 Lemon, Mark, Esq. Gordon-street, Gordon-square. 
 Lings, Mrs. Deborah, Hampstead-road. 
 Little, William, Esq. Strand. 
 
 Mackay, Charles, Esq. LL.D., F.S.A. Camden-square. 
 Macready, W. C. Esq. Sherborne House, Sherborne, Dorset. 
 Mair, George G. Esq. F.S.A. Upper Bedford-place, Russell-square. 
 Manby, Charles, Esq. F.R.S. Great George-street, Westminster. 
 Martin, W. C. L Esq. F.L.S. Dacre-Park-terrace, Lee. 
 Martiny, E. Esq. Office of Ordnance, Pall Mull. 
 Mather, James, Esq. The Grove, South Shields. 
 Mawe, T. J. Esq. Carlton Villas, Maida Vale. Two copies. 
 Mayer, Joseph, Esq. F.S.A. Liverpool. 
 Merewgther, Mr. Serjeant, fown Clerk of London. 
 Minister, E. W. Esq. Arragon Villas, Twickenham. 
 Monte Video Consul, London. Two copies. 
 Moses, Mrs. Hanway-street, Oxford-street. 
 Munro, Alexander, Esq. Upper Belgrave-place. 
 Noble, Matthew, Esq. Bruton-street, Berkeley-square. 
 Ottley, Henry, Esq. Vale of Health, Hampstead. 
 Owen, Rev. O. Freire, F.S.A. Maida-hill West. 
 Parkyns. Mansfield, Esq. Woodborough Hall, Notts. 
 Parry, Thomas, Esq. Slenford, Lincoln. 
 Pellatt, Apsley, Esq. M.P. Southwark. Two copies. 
 Penson, R. Kyrke, Esq. F.S.A. Oswestry, Salop. 
 Pepper, J. H. Esq. Polytechnic Institution, Regent-street. 
 Phillips, Richard M. Esq. Brompton. 
 Piper, Captain, Cumberland House, Shepherd's Bush. 
 Pollard, George, Esq. Watling-street. 
 
 Prior, James, Esq. R.N., F.S.A. Norfolk-crescent, Hyde Park. 
 Purland, Theodosius, Esq. Mortimer-street, Covendish-square. Two copies. 
 Reach, Angus B. Esq. Albert-street, Mornington-erescent. 
 Read, Samuel, Esq. New Cavendish-street, Portland-place. 
 Redwood, H. B. Esq. Sloane-street. 
 Richards, Rev. Joseph, M.A. Calcutta. 
 
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Roots, William, Esq. M.D., F.S.A. SurUton, Kingston-upon-Thames. 
 
 Rose, William. Esq. Coalport, Salop. 
 
 Russell, John Scott, Esq. F.R.S. Great George-street, Westminster. 
 
 Salmon, Frederick, Esq. F.S.A. Lower Berkeley-street. 
 
 Sargent, Mrs. Ely Lodge, Stoke Newington. 
 
 Savill, T. C. Esq. South Villas, Campden-hill, Kensington. 
 
 Scott, G. Gilbert. Esq. F.S.A. Spring-gardens. 
 
 Scott, John, Esq. Coventry-street. 
 
 Shepard, E. Clarence, Esq. Onslow-square, Brompton. 
 
 Sidney, Samuel, Esq. Chaplin Villa, Forest-hill. Two copies. 
 
 Simpson, Henry, Esq. Philpot-lane, Eastcheap. 
 
 Simpson, T. Bridge, Esq. Leadenhall-street. 
 
 Since, Alfred, Esq. F.R.S. Finsbury-tircus. 
 
 Smith, Albert, Esq. Percy-street, Bedford-square. Two copies. 
 
 Smith, William, Esq. F.S.A. Upper Southwick-street, Hyde Park. 
 
 Smith, W. H. Esq. Strand. Two copies. 
 
 Spalding, Thomas, Esq. Di-ury-lane. 
 
 Spencer, Joseph Frowd, Esq. Brompton. 
 
 Staunton, Howard. Esq. Mill Hill House, Barnes Common, Surrey. 
 
 Tennant, James, Esq. F.G.S. Strand. 
 
 Thackeray, W. M. Esq. Young-street, Kensington. 
 
 Thomas, John, Esq. Church-street, Paddington. TJiree copies. 
 
 Thomas, John Evan. Esq. Lower Belgrave-place. 
 
 Tucker, Charles, Esq. F S.A. Marlands, Heavitree, Exeter. 
 
 Tudor, E. Owen, Esq. F.S.A. Westbourne-terrace. 
 
 Tupper, Martin Farquhar, Esq. D.C.L., F.R.S. Albury, Surrey. 
 
 Tussaud, Joseph, Esq Baker-street, Portman-square. 
 
 Tymbs, John, Esq. Worcester. 
 
 Veall, J. R. Esq Waterloo-road, Wolverhampton. 
 
 Virtue, George H. Esq F.S.A. Finsbury-square. 
 
 Walesby, Thomas. Esq. Waterloo-place, Pall Mall. 
 
 Ward, E. M. Esq. A.R.A. Upton Villas, Slough. 
 
 Waterton, Edmund. Esq. F.S.A. Walton Hall, Yorkshire. 
 
 Way, Albert, Esq F.S.A. Wonham Manor, Surrey. 
 
 Weir, W. Harrison, Esq. Lyndhurst Villas, Peekham. Two comes 
 
 Whitty, E. M. Esq. Great College-street, Westminster 
 
 Williams, John M. Esq. Palsyrave-place, Strand. 
 
 Williams, Joseph L. Esq. Victoria-road, Kensington. 
 
 Williamson, Joseph. Esq. Princess-terrace, Caledonian-road. 
 
 Wilson, James H. Esq. Onslow-square, Brompton. 
 
 Wire, Mr. Alderman, St. Swithin's-lane. 
 
 Worster, Major, Obs rvatory, Madras. 
 
 Wright, Thomas, Esq. M.A., F.S.A. Sydney-street, Brompton. 
 
CUKIOSITIES 
 
 ADELPHI, (THE), 
 
 A SERIES of streets in the rear of the houses on the south side of the 
 Strand, reaching east and west from Adam-street to Buckingham- 
 street, and facing the Thames on the south a grand commencement of 
 the architectural embankment of the river in 1768. It is named Adelphi 
 (afoxtpo;, brother) from its architects, the four brothers Adam, who 
 built vast arches over the court-yard of old Durham House, and upon 
 these erected, level with the Strand, .Adam-street, leading to John, 
 Robert, James, and William Streets ; the noble line of houses fronting 
 the Thames being the Adelphi Terrace. The view from this spot is 
 almost unrivalled in the metropolis for variety and architectural beauty : 
 from Waterloo Bridge on the east, with the majestic dome and pic- 
 turesque campanili of St. Paul's, to Westminster Bridge on the west, 
 above which rise the towers of Lambeth Palace, and Westminster Abbey, 
 and the pinnacles and bristling roofs of the New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 At No. 5, the centre house of the Terrace, David Garrick died, Jan. 
 20, 1779 ; and here his remains lay in state, previous to their interment 
 in Westminster Abbey, Feb. 1. Garrick's widow also died here in 
 1822. At No. 1 Adam-street, lived Dr. Knox, the " British Essayist." 
 At Osborne's Hotel, John-street, in 1824, sojourned Kamehameha II., 
 King of the Sandwich Islands, and his sister the Queen, with their 
 suites : the Queen died here of measles, July 8 ; and the King died of 
 the same disease, at the Caledonian Hotel, on the 14th : their remains 
 lay in native pomp at Osborne's, and were then deposited in the vaults 
 of St. Martin s Church, prior to their being conveyed in the Blonde 
 frigate to the Sandwich Islands for interment. The poor King and 
 Queen were wantonly charged with gluttony and drunkenness while 
 here ; but they lived chiefly on fish, poultry, and fruit, and their fa- 
 vourite drink was some cider presented to them by Mr. Canning. 
 
 In John-street, also, is the house built for the Society of Arts by the 
 Adams. In the second-floor chambers at No. 2 James-street, lived, 
 for nearly thirty years, Mr. Thomas Hill, the " Hull" of Theodore 
 Hook's Gilbert Gurney. Hill died here Dec. 20, 1841, in his 81st year ; 
 and left a large collection of curiosities, including a cup and a small 
 vase formed from the mulberry-tree planted by Shakspeare at Stratford- 
 upon-Avon. Neither of these, however, is the Shakespeare Cup pre- 
 sented to Garrick by the Mayor arid Corporation of Stratford at the 
 time of the Jubilee. This celebrated relic was bought on May 5, 1825, 
 for 121 guineas, by Mr. J. Johnson ; and by him sold, July 4, 1846, for 
 4W. 8s. 6d., to Mr. Isaacs, of Upper Gower-street. 
 
 The Adelphi vaults, occupied as cellars and coal- wharfs, in their grim 
 vastness, remind one of the Etruscan Cloaca of old Rome. Beneath 
 the " dry arches," the most abandoned characters have often passed the 
 night, nestling upon foul straw ; and many a street-thief escaped from 
 his pursuers in these subterranean haunts, before the introduction of 
 gas-light and a vigilant police. 
 
 ADMIKALTY OFFICE, (THE), 
 
 Forms the left flank of the detachment of Government Offices on the 
 north side of Whitehall. It occupies the site of Wallingford House, 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 from the roof of which Archbishop Usher saw King Charles I. led out 
 to execution in the front of Whitehall Palace, and swooned at the sight. 
 
 The Admiralty Office, built by Ripley, about 1726, is a tasteless 
 pile : to conceal its ugliness, the court-yard was fronted with a stone 
 screen, by the Adams, in the reign of "George III. This screen is a 
 very characteristic composition : its sculptured hippocampi, and prows 
 of ancient vessels, combining with an anchor in the pediment of the 
 
 portico of the main building, to denote the purposes of the office the 
 
 administration of the affairs of the Royal Navy. In one of the large 
 rooms the remains of Lord Nelson lay in state, Jan. 8, 1806 ; and next 
 day, took plaee the solemn funeral procession, with a military force of 
 nearly 8000 men, from this spot to St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 On the roof of the Admiralty Office, many years since, was placed 
 a Semaphore, (the invention of Sir Home Popham) ; the arms of which, 
 extending laterally at right angles, communicated orders and intelli- 
 gence to and from the sea-ports; previous to which was used the shuttle 
 telegraph, invented by R. L. Edgeworth. The Semaphore has, how- 
 ever, been superseded by the Electric Telegraph, of which nine wires 
 are laid from the office in Whitehall to the Dockyard at Portsmouth ; 
 the Admiralty paying the Electric Telegraph Company 1200Z. a-year. 
 
 ALCHEMISTS. 
 
 The last true believer in Alchemy was, according to Mr. Brande, 
 Peter Woulfe, who occupied chambers in Barnard's Inn, Holborn, while 
 residing in London, and usually spent the summer in Paris : lie died in 
 1805. About 1801, an adept lived, or rather starved, in the metropolis, 
 in the person of an editor of an evening journal, who expected to com- 
 pound the alkahest if he could only keep his materials digested in a 
 lamp-furnace for the space of seven years. The lamp burnt brightly 
 during six years, eleven months, and some odd days besides, and then, 
 unluckily, it went out. "Why it went out the adept never could guess ; 
 but he was certain that if the flame could only have burnt to the end 
 of the septenary cycle his experiment must have succeeded. (Paper 
 on Astrology and Alchemy, by Sir Walter Scott; Quarterly Review, 1821.) 
 
 In Catherine-street, Strand, lived for many years one John Denley, 
 a bookseller, who amassed here a notable collection of the works of 
 alchemist, cabalist, and astrologer : he is the individual referred to by 
 Sir E. Lytton Bulwer in the introduction to his Zanoni. 
 
 ALDERMAN, 
 
 The oldest office in the Corporation of London, and derived from the 
 Ealdorman, or superior Saxon noble; but not mentioned as presiding 
 over gilds or wards until Henry II. In some cases, the wards were the 
 Aldermen's heritable property, and received their own names. The 
 present ward of Farringdon was bought by William Faryngdon in 
 1279, and remained in his family upwards of eighty years ; it was held 
 by the tenure of presenting at Easter a gillyflower, then of great 
 rarity. Each of the twenty-six City wards elects one Alderman for 
 life, or "during good behaviour." The fine for the rejection of the 
 office is 500Z. ; but it is generally sought as a stepping-stone to the 
 Mayoralty, each Alderman being in rotd Lord Mayor, he having previ- 
 ously served as Sheriff of London and Middlesex. The Aldermen form 
 a court, the Lord Mayor presiding ; and sit in a superb apartment of the 
 Guildhall, which has a rich stucco ceiling painted mostly by Sir James 
 Thornhill ; in the cornice are carved and emblazoned the'arms of all the 
 Mayors since 1780 : each Alderman's chair bears his name and arms, 
 and he wears a scarlet cloth gown, hooded and furred ; and a gold 
 chain, if he has served as Mayor. Upon state visits of sovereigns to 
 
ALDERMAN. ALMACK'S. 
 
 the City, the several Aldermen ride in procession on horseback. At the 
 opening of the New Royal Exchange, October 28, 1844, ten Aldermen 
 rode thus, wearing their gowns and chains and cocked hats, carrying 
 wands, and preceding the Queen's procession from Temple Bar. 
 
 The office of Alderman has rarely been filled by men of intellectual 
 mark. Alderman Fabian, who wrote the " Chronicles of England and 
 France," early in the 16th century, is an exception. Alderman Barber, 
 the first printer Lord Mayor (1733), was the friend of Bolingbroke, Swift, 
 and Pope ; and in 1721 erected a cenotaph to Samuel Butler in West- 
 minster Abbey, notwithstanding Butler's satiric " Character" of an 
 Alderman. The notorious John "Wilkes was a man of talent, though 
 profligate and unprincipled. Alderman Boydell was a generous. and 
 discriminating promoter of the fine arts, and was honoured with a pub- 
 lic funeral. The Court of Aldermen, in 1850, consisted of 
 
 2 wharfingers, 2 auctioneers, 1 potter, 1 grocer, 1 publisher, 1 ship-broker, 
 1 wine-merchant, 1 tea-dealer, 1 print-seller, 2 general merchants, 1 solicitor, 
 1 dealer in hides, 1 iron-master ; 10 of independent property, and mostly 
 retired traders = 26. 
 
 Five of the Aldermen sit in Parliament, one for his own City. The 
 above list, however, does not include one banker, and only two "merchant- 
 princes :" the dignity of the office has unquestionably been trifled with 
 by the choice of retail traders ; for an Alderman to sell a pound of can- 
 dles or a penny tart will not increase the respect for his magisterial 
 or corporate position. The histories of the Aldermen of our time ex- 
 hibit some melancholy instances of reverse of fortune : upwards of 1300Z. 
 is paid annually, in pensions or allowances, by the Court of Aldermen, 
 to the widows or descendants of their less prosperous brethren. 
 
 ALMACK'S 
 
 Assembly Booms, on the south side of King-street, St. James's, were 
 built by Mylne, for one Almack, a Scotsman ; and were opened Feb. 12, 
 1765, with an Assembly, at which the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of 
 Culloden, was present. The large ball-room is about one hundred feet 
 in length by forty feet in width; it is chastely decorated with gilt 
 columns and pilasters, classic medallions, mirrors, &c., and is lit with 
 upwards of five hundred wax-lights in five cut-glass lustres. The 
 largest number of persons ever present in this room at one ball was 1700. 
 
 The Assembly is regulated by Ladies Patronesses, who in the season 
 of 1850 were the Duchess of Norfolk, the- Marchioness of Ely, Mar- 
 chioness of Londonderry, Marchioness of Westminster, the Countess of 
 Jersey, Countess of Kinnoull, Countess of Lichfield, Viscountess Pal- 
 merston, and Lady Clinton. The series consisted of six assemblies, on 
 alternate Thursdays after Easter, subject to the following regulations : 
 " Each Lady Patroness to have on her list a limited number of sub- 
 scribers. The Lady Patronesses to have a limited number of non- 
 subscribers for each ball. No Lady Patroness can give a subscription 
 or a ticket to a lady she does not visit, or to a gentleman who is not in- 
 troduced to her by a lady whose name is upon her visiting-list. No 
 gentlemen's tickets can be transferable." 
 
 The rooms are let for public meetings, dramatic readings, concerts, 
 balls, and occasionally for dinners. Here Mrs. Billington, Mr. Bra- 
 ham, and Signer Naldi gave concerts from 1808 to 1810, in rivalry with 
 Madame Catalani at Hanover Square Rooms; and here Mr. Charles 
 Kemble gave his Readings from Shakspeare, in 1844. Almack 's Rooms 
 are often called " Willis's," from the name of their present proprietor. 
 
 Almack's has declined of late years ; "a clear proof that the palmy 
 days of exclusiveness are gone by in England ; and though it is 
 obviously impossible to prevent any given number of persons from 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 congregating and re-establishing an oligarchy, we are quite sure that 
 the attempt would be ineffectual, and that the sense of their importance 
 would extend little beyond the set." (Quarterly Review, 1840.) 
 
 ALMO]STRY, (THE), 
 
 Or Eleemosynary, now corruptly, (as in Stow's time,) the Ambry, was 
 named from its being the place where the alms collected in the Abbey 
 Church at Westminster were distributed to poor persons. It was situ- 
 ated at the east end of the Sanctuary, and was divided into two parts : 
 " the Great Almonry, consisting of two oblong portions, parallel to the 
 two Tothill streets, and connected by a narrow lane (the entrance being 
 from Dean's Yard) ; and the Little Almonry, running southward, at 
 the eastern end of the other Almonry." (Walcot's Westminster, 1849.) 
 
 In the Almonry the first printing-press ever known in England was 
 set up by William Caxton, according to Stow, in an old chapel near the 
 entrance of the Abbey ; but a very curious placard, in Caxton's largest 
 type, and now preserved in the library of Brasenose College, Oxford, 
 shews that he printed in the Almonry ; for in this placard he invites cus- 
 tomers to "come to Westmonester in to the Almonestrye at the Reed 
 Pale," the name by which was known a house in which Caxton is said 
 to have lived. It stood on the north side of the Almonry, with its back 
 against that of a house on the south side of Tothill-street. Bagford 
 describes this house as of brick, with the sign of the King's Head : 
 it is stated to have fallen down in November, 1845, before the removal 
 of the other dwellings in the Almonry, to form a new line ( Victoria- 
 street) from Tothill-street to Pimlico. A beam of wood was saved 
 from the materials of the house, and from it have been made a chess- 
 board and two sets of chessmen, as appropriate memorials of Caxton's 
 first labour in England The Game andPlaye of the Chesse, 1474, folio, 
 believed to be the first book printed in England (See Illustrated London 
 News, June 5, 1847). According to a view of Caxton's House, en- 
 graved by G. Cooke, in 1827, it was three-storied, and had a gallery or 
 balcony to the upper floor, with a window in its bold gable. 
 
 In one of the almshouses built by King Henry VII., north of the 
 Almonry, lived Thomas Barker, who aided Izaak Walton in writing 
 The Complete Angler. And in the Little Almonry was the house of 
 Harrington, the poet, who attended Charles I. on the scaffold ; and who 
 was here often visited by Roger 1'Estrange and Andrew Marvell. 
 
 There is an old brick house in Tothill-street, opposite Dartmouth- 
 street, which was probably at one time connected with the Almonry. 
 It has upon its front, sunken in the brickwork, the letters E. (Eleemo- 
 synaria?), T. A. (perhaps the initials of the almoner's name), with, how- 
 ever, a late date, 1571. A heart, which is above the inscription, was 
 the symbol used in the old Clog Almanacks for the Annunciation, the 
 Purification, and all other Feast-days of Our Lady. ( Walcofs West- 
 minster, 1849.) 
 
 ALMONRY, ROYAL. 
 
 This Office, in Middle Scotland Yard, Whitehall, is maintained expressly 
 for the distribution of the Royal Alms, or Bounty, to the poor. The 
 duties of the Hereditary Grand Almoner, first instituted in the reign 
 of Richard I., are confined to the distribution of alms at a Coronation. 
 The office of the High Almoner is of a more general description. In 
 the reign of Edward I., his office was to collect the fragments of the 
 royal table, and distribute them daily to the poor ; to visit the sick, 
 poor widows, prisoners, and other persons in distress ; to remind the 
 King about the bestowal of his alms, especially on Saints' Days ; and to 
 see that the cast-off robes were sold, to increase the King's charity. 
 
ALMSHOUSES. 
 
 For more than a century the office of Lord High Almoner was held by 
 the Archbishops of York ; but on the death of Archbishop Harcourt, in 
 November, 1847, the office was conferred upon Dr. Samuel Wilberforce, 
 Bishop of Oxford. 
 
 The distribution of Alms on the Thursday before Easter, or Maundy 
 Thursday, takes place in Whitehall Chapel ; that at Easter, Whitsun- 
 tide, and Christmas, at the Office in Middle Scotland Yard. Thus, on 
 Easter Monday, 1850, "upwards of 500 men and women were presented 
 with 5*. each, all being above sixty, and many upwards of ninety years 
 of age." The pious Queen Adelaide, who died in 1849, and is known to 
 have expended one-third of her large income in private and public cha- 
 rity, maintained in her household an Almoner, whose duty it was to 
 investigate all applications for the royal benevolence. 
 
 ALMSHOUSES, 
 
 Built by Public Companies, Benevolent Societies, and private indivi- 
 duals, for aged and infirm persons, are very numerous in the metro- 
 polis and its suburbs. The Companies' Almshouses were originally 
 erected next their Halls, that the almspeople might be handy to attend 
 pageants and processions ; but these almshouses have mostly been re- 
 moved, owing to the increased value of ground in the City. 
 
 Almshouses succeeded the incorporated Hospitals dissolved by King 
 Henry VIII. Among the earliest erected were the Almshouses founded 
 by Lady Margaret, mother of King Henry VII., for poor women: 
 they were afterwards converted into lodgings for the singing men of 
 the Abbey, and called Choristers' Rents : they were taken down about 
 1800. Westminster has several of these munificent foundations : as the 
 Red Lion Almshouses, in York-street, founded in 1577, for eight poor 
 women, by Cornelius Van Dun, of Brabant, a soldier who served under 
 King Henry VIII. at Tournay. Next are, in the same neighbourhood, 
 the Almshouses for twelve poor housekeepers of St. Margaret's, with a 
 school and chapel the boys clad in black : these were founded in 1566, 
 by the Rev. Edward Palmer, B.D., many years preacher at St. Bride's, 
 Fleet Street, and who used to sleep in the church-tower. Emmanuel 
 Hospital, James Street, was founded by the will of Lady Ann Dacre, in 
 1601, for aged parishioners of St. Margaret's :' and in one of its aims- 
 houses, on January 22, 1772, died Mrs. Windimore, cousin of Mary 
 (consort of William III.,) and of Queen Anne. 
 
 In 1720, the Drapers' Company maintained Almshouses at Tower 
 Hill, Beach Lane, Greenwich, Stratford-le-Bow, Shoreditch, St. George's 
 Fields, St. Mary Newington, and Mile End. Whittington's College, or 
 Almshouses, founded in 1621, on College Hill, were rebuilt by the 
 Mercers' Company, at the foot of Highgate Hill, about 1826. The Fish- 
 mongers' Company's Almshouses, or St. Peter's Hospital, Newington 
 Butts, founded 1618, consisted of three courts, dining-hall, and chapel : 
 and were rebuilt on Wandsworth Common, in 1850. 
 
 Richard Alleyn, the distinguished actor, and friend of Ben Jonson 
 and Shakspeare, besides founding Dulwich College, built and endowed 
 three sets of Almshouses in the metropolis : in Lamb Alley, Bishops- 
 gate Street ; in Bath Street, St. Luke's ; and in Soap Yard, Southwark. 
 
 Traditionallv, we owe the foundation of Dame Owen's School and 
 Almshouses, at Islington, to Archery. In 1610, this rich brewer's 
 widow, in passing along St. John-street Road, then Hermitage Fields, 
 was struck by a truant arrow, and narrowly escaped "braining ;" and 
 the old lady, thinking such close shooting dangerous, in commemoration 
 of her providential escape, built, in 1613, a free school and ten aims- 
 houses upon the scene of her adventure. Since 1839, they have been 
 handsomelv rebuilt bv t.hp. "Rrpwfirs' f!mrmanv_ trustees for the Charitv. 
 
6 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Trinity House Almshouses, in the Mile End Road, founded in 
 1695, for decayed commanders of ships, mates, or pilots, and their wives 
 and widows, have characteristic ornaments of shipping on their roofs, 
 and a statue of Captain Saunders, a benefactor to the charity ; died 1721. 
 
 Bancroft's Almshouses and School, Mile End, were built in 1735, 
 with the ill-gotten fortune bequeathed by Francis Bancroft, grandson of 
 Archbishop Bancroft, and an officer of the Lord Mayor's Court ; and 
 so hated for his mercenary and oppressive practices, that at his funeral, 
 a mob, for very joy, rang the church bells of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, 
 where is a tomb to his memory, erected in his life-time. The almsmen 
 are twenty-four poor old members of the Drapers' Company ; and the 
 school boards, clothes, educates, and apprentices 100 boys. In May, 1850, 
 there was a public dinner of persons brought up in Bancroft's School. 
 
 The Almshouses erected of late years are mostly picturesque build- 
 ings, in the old English style, with gables, turrets, and twisted chimney- 
 shafts, of red brick, with handsome stone dressings. 
 
 The Marylebone Almshouses, built in St. John's Wood Terrace, 
 Regent's Park, in 1836, originated in a legacy of 500Z. from Count 
 Woronzow ; the site being leased for ninety -nine years, at a pepper- 
 corn rent, by Colonel Eyre, with two presentations to the Charity. 
 
 The London Almshouses were erected at Brixton, in 1833, to com- 
 memorate the passing of the Reform Bill, instead of by illumination. 
 
 The Bang William Naval Asylum, at Penge, opened 1849, for the 
 widows of Commanders, Lieutenants, Masters, and Pursers in the 
 Royal Navy, was built by Queen Adelaide, to the memory of William IV. 
 
 AMUSEMENTS, PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 ARCHERY is mentioned among the summer pastimes of the London 
 youth by Fitzstephen, who wrote in the reign of Henry II. ; and the 
 repeated statutes from the 13th to the 16th centuries, enforcing the use 
 of the Bow, invariably ordered the leisure time upon holidays to be 
 passed in its exercise, Finsbury appears to have been a very early lo- 
 cality for Archery ; for in the reign of Edward I. there w"as formed 
 a society entitled the Archers of Finsburv, subsequently known as the 
 Artillery Company. In the reign of Henry VII., all the gardens in 
 Finsbury were destroyed by law, " and of them was made a plain field 
 for archers to shoote in ;" this being the appropriation of what is now 
 called " the Artillery Ground." Among the curious books on Archery 
 are iheAyme for Fin sburie Archer S.IQ28: and theAymefor the Archers 
 of St. George's Fields, 1664. 
 
 Henry VIII. shot with the longbow as well as any of his guards : 
 he chartered a society for shooting ; and jocosely dignified a successful 
 archer as Duke of Shoreditch, at which place his Grace resided. This 
 title was long preserved by the Captain of the London Archers, who 
 used to summon the officers of his several divisions under the titles of 
 Marquis of Barlo, of Clerkenwell, of Islington, of Hoxton, of Shackle- 
 well, &c., Earl of Pancras, &c. "We read of a grand pageant in this 
 reign, of three thousand archers, guarded by whifflers and billmen, 
 pages and footmen, proceeding from Merchant Taylors' Hall, through 
 Broad-street, the residence of their captain ; thence into Moorfields by 
 Finsbury, and so on to Smithfield, where they performed evolutions, and 
 shot at a target for honour. 
 
 Stow, (who died in 1605) informs us, that before his time it had 
 been customary at Bartholomew-tide for the Lord Mayor, with the 
 sheriffs and aldermen, to go into the fields at Finsbury, where the citi- 
 zens were assembled, and shoot at the standard with broad and flight 
 arrows for games; and this exercise was continued for several days. 
 
 Edward VI. was fond of archery j and in his reign the scholars of 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 St. Bartholomew, who held their disputations in cloisters, were re- 
 warded with a bow and silver arrows. Charles I. was an excellent 
 archer, and forbade by proclamation the inclosure of shooting-grounds 
 near London. Archery, however, seems then to have fallen into dis- 
 repute. Sir William Davenant, in a mock poem, entitled The Long 
 Vacation in London, describes the attorneys and proctors as making 
 matches in Finsbury Fields : 
 
 " With loynes in canvas bow-case tied, 
 Where arrows stick with mickle pride ; 
 Like ghosts of Adam Bell and Clymme : 
 Sol set for fear they'll shoot at him !" 
 
 Pepys records (1667), that, when a boy, he used to shoot with his 
 bow and arrows in the fields at Kingsland. 
 
 In 1781, the remains of the " Old Finsbury Archers" established 
 the Toxophilite Society, at Leicester House, then in Leicester Fields ; 
 it is stated, principally through Sir Ashton Lever, who shewed his 
 Musuem there. The Society held their meetings in Bloomsbury Fields, 
 behind the present site of Gower-street. In about twenty- five years 
 they removed on " target days" to Highbury Barn ; from thence to 
 Bayswater ; and in 1834, to the Inner Circle, Regent's Park, where 
 they have a rustic lodge, and between five and six acres of ground. 
 The Society consisted in 1850 of 100 members ; terms, 51. annually, 
 entrance-fee 51., and other expenses. They meet every Friday during 
 the Spring and Summer ; the shooting is at 60, 80, and 100 yards ; and 
 many prizes are shot for during the season; Prince Albert, patron. 
 They possess the original silver badge of the old Finsbury Archers. 
 
 The most numerous Society of the kind now existing is, however, 
 " The Royal Company of Archers, the Queen's body-guard of Scotland," 
 whose captain-general, the Duke of Buccleuch, rode in the coronation 
 procession of Queen Victoria, 
 
 In 1849, the Society of Cantelows Archers was established ; their 
 shooting-ground is at Camden Square, Camden New Town ; the prize, 
 a large silver medal. 
 
 There was a fine display of Archery at the Fete of the Scottish 
 Society of London, in Holland Park, Kensington, June 20 and 21, 1849, 
 when 3001. worth of prize plate was shot for. 
 
 BALLAD-SINGING, the vestige of the minstrelsy which Cromwell, in 
 1656, silenced for a time, was common in the last century. " The Blind 
 Beggar" had conferred poetic celebrity upon Bethnal Green ; " Black- 
 eyed Susan," and "'Twas when the seas were roaring," were the 
 lyrics that landsmen delighted to sing of the sea; and "Jemmy Daw- 
 son," (set to music by Dr. Arne,) grew into historic fame elsewhere 
 than on the scene of the tragedy, Kennington Common. To these suc- 
 ceeded the 'sea-songs of Charles Dibdin, which were commonly sung 
 about the streets by the very tars who had first felt their patriotic in- 
 spiration : a sailor, who wore a model of the brig Nelson upon his hat, 
 long maintained a vocal celebrity upon Tower Hill. Hogarth, in his 
 "Wedding of the Industrious Apprentice," has painted the famous bal- 
 lad-singer " Philip in the Tub ;" and Gravelot, a portrait-painter in the 
 Strand, had several sittings from ballad-singers. The great factory of 
 the ballads has long been Seven Dials, where Pitts employed Bat Cor- 
 coran, the patron of "slender Ben" and (t over-head-and-ears Nic." 
 Among its earlier lyrists were " Tottenham Court Meg," the " Ballad- 
 singing Cobler," and "oulde Guy, the poet." Mr. Catnach, another 
 noted printer of ballads, lived in Seven Dials ; and, at his death, left 
 a considerable fortune. He was the first ballad-printer who published 
 yards of songs for one penny, in former days the price of a single ballad; 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and here he accumulated the largest stock on record of whole sheets, 
 last-dying speeches, ballads, and other wares of the flying stationers. 
 
 Bolle Bayting Theatre," near " the Beare Baitynge House," nigh where 
 London Bridge now commences. Pepys describes a visit to the "beare- 
 garden" in 1666, where he saw " some good sport of the bull's tossing 
 of the dogs, one into the very boxes. But it is a very rude and nasty 
 pleasure." Hockley- in-the-Hole, Clerkenwell, was styled " His Ma- 
 jesty's Bear-Garden" in 1700, and was the scene of bull and bear baiting, 
 wrestling, and boxing ; but it was neglected for Figg's Amphitheatre, in 
 Oxford Road : 
 
 "Long liv'd the great Figg, by the prize-fighting swains 
 Sole monarch acknowledged of Marybone plains." 
 
 At Tothill Fields, Westminster, was, in 3793, a noted bear-garden, a 
 portion of which now forms Vincent Square. 
 
 BOWLS was formerly a popular game in the metropolis : it suc- 
 ceeded archery before Stow's time, when many gardens of the City and 
 its suburbs were converted into bowling-alleyes ; our author, in 1579, 
 wrote : " Common bowling-alleyes are privy mothes that eat up the 
 credit of many idle citizens, whose gaynes at home are not able to weigh 
 downe theyr losses abroad;" elsewhere he says: "Our bowes are 
 turned into bowls." The game of bowls, however, is as old as the 
 13th century, and in the country was played upon greens ; but the 
 alleys required less room, and were covered over, so that the game 
 could be played there in all weathers, whence they became greatly mul- 
 tiplied in London. Bowls was played by Henry VIII., who added to 
 Whitehall " tennise-courtes, bowling-alleys, and a cock-pit." 
 
 Spring Garden, St. James's, had its ordinary and bowling-green 
 kept by a servant of Charles the First's Court, and Piccadilly Hall, at 
 the corner of Windmill- street and Coventry-street, had its upper and 
 lower bowling-greens. 
 
 In the last century, Bowls was much played in the suburbs, espe- 
 cially at Marybone Gardens, mentioned by Pepys in 1668 as " a pretty 
 place." Its bowling-greens were frequented by the nobility, among 
 whom was Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, to whose partiality for the 
 game Lady Mary Wortley Montague refers in the line 
 " Seme dukes at Marybone bowl time away." 
 
 The place grew into disrepute, and was closed in 1777 ; it is made by 
 Gay a scene of Macheath's debauchery in the Beggar's Opera. 
 
 'The grave John Locke, in one of his private journals (1679) records 
 " bowling at Marebone and Putney by persons of quality ; wrestling in 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields on summer evenings ; bear and bull baiting at the 
 Bear-Garden; shooting in the longbow and stob-ball in Tothil Fields." 
 
 Greens remain attached to a few old taverns round London. In 
 the town, bowling-alleys were abolished in the last century, and gave 
 rise to long-bowling, or bowling in a narrow inclosure at nine pins 
 upon a square frame. The ball-games next merged into cricket. 
 
 Bowling-street, Westminster, commemorates the spot where the 
 members of the Convent of St. Peter amused themselves at bowls. 
 
 CARD-PLAYING would appear to have become early a favourite pas- 
 time with the Londoners ; for in 1643 a law was passed, on a petition 
 of the cardmakers of the city, prohibiting the importation of playing- 
 cards. It was a very fashionable court amusement in the reign of 
 Henry VII. ; and so general, that it became necessary to prohibit by 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 9 
 
 law apprentices from using cards, except in the Christmas holidays, 
 and then only in their masters' houses. Agreeable to this privilege, 
 Stow, speaking of the customs at London, says, " From Allhallows Eve 
 to the day following Candlemas-day, there was, among other sports, 
 playing at cards, for counters, nails, and points, in every house, more 
 for pastime than for gayne." Whist, in its present state, was not 
 played till about 1730, when it was much studied by a set of gentlemen 
 who frequented the Crown coffee-house in Bedford Row. 
 
 The name of " Hells," applied in our time to gambling-houses, 
 originated in the room in St. James's Palace formerly appropriated to 
 Hazard being remarkably dark, and on that account called " hell." 
 
 A few years ago there were more of these infamous places of resort in 
 London than in any other city in the world. The handsome gas-lamp and 
 the green or red baize door at the end of the passage (as well known a 
 sign as the Golden Cross or Spread Eagle) were conspicuous objects 
 in the vicinity of St. James's ; and of St. George's, Hanover Square : 
 and the nuisances still linger about the Regent's Quadrant and Leicester 
 Square ; notwithstanding, for the suppression of gaming, the police are 
 armed with the power of breaking into the houses of her Majesty's 
 lieges at all hours of the day and night. 
 
 COCK-FIGHTING was a London pastime in 1190, and very fashionable 
 from temp. Edward III. almost to our time. Henry VIII. added a cock- 
 pit to Whitehall Palace, where James I. went to see the sport twice 
 a- week ; this pit being upon the site of the present Privy Council 
 Office : hence the Cockpit Gate, built by Holbein, across the road at 
 Whitehall. Besides this Royal Cockpit, there was formerly a Cockpit 
 in Drury Lane, now corrupted to Pitt-place, and where was the Cock- 
 pit or Phoenix Theatre. There were other Cockpits, in Jewin-street, 
 Cripplegate, and near Bedford Row, whence the Cockpit Yards there ; 
 and another in Shoe Lane, temp. James I., whence Cockpit Court in that 
 neighbourhood; and another noted Cockpit was "behind Gray's Inn." 
 Hogarth's print best illustrates the brutal refinement of the Cock-fight- 
 ing of the last century ; and the barbarous sport is, we believe, encou- 
 raged at some low haunt in Westminster, not far distant from the spot 
 where in kindred pastime Royalty relieved the weighty cares of state. 
 Cock-fighting is now forbidden and punishable by statute. 
 
 CRICKET. This noble game, first mentioned in 1719, was played 
 by the "White Conduit" and other clubs before 1780, when the Maryle- 
 bone Club was formed, and Lord's Ground was established by Thomas 
 Lord. The latter is in St. John's Wood Road, and is about 7 J acres in 
 extent, and devoted almost exclusively, in May, June, and July, to the 
 matches and practice of the Marylebone Club ; in 1850, consisting of 578 
 members, with Prince Albert as patron ; at the annual meeting, early in 
 May, the Laws of Cricket are revised, and matches for the season ar- 
 ranged. Attached to Lord's Ground are a Tennis Court and Baths. 
 
 Among the other principal Cricket Grounds are the Oval (larger 
 than Lord's), near Kennington Church : the Royal Artillery Ground, 
 Finsbury, is, perhaps, the oldest Ground in London ; for here a match 
 was played between Kent and All England in 1746. There are also 
 grounds in Copenhagen Fields ; at the Brecknock Arms, Camden Town ; 
 at Brixton, near the church ; adjoining the New Cattle Market, Isling- 
 ton ; in Lord Holland's Park, Kensington ; and the Scholars' Ground, 
 Vauxhall Bridge Road: here "the Westminster Boys" play: their 
 cricket-flag bears " R. S. W.," surrounded by the motto, In Patriam 
 Populumque. (See The Cricketer's Manual, by " Bat," 1850.) 
 
 DUCK-HUNTING with Dogs was a barbarous pastime of the last 
 century in the neighbourhood of London, happily put an end to by the 
 
10 CUKIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 want of ponds of water. St. George's Fields was a notorious locality for 
 this sport ; hence the infamous Dog and Duck Tavern and Tea Gar- 
 dens, from a noted dog which hunted ducks in a sheet of water there : 
 Hannah More makes it a favourite resort of her Cheapside Apprentice. 
 The premises were afterwards let to the School for the Indigent Blind, 
 and were taken down in 1812, when Bethlem Hospital was built upon 
 the site ; in its front wall is preserved the original sign-stone of a Dog 
 with a Duck thrown across his back. Ingenious lesson this, of setting 
 up a memorial of profligacy and cruelty upon a site devoted to the 
 restoration of reason ! 
 
 EQUESTRIANISM appears to have been a favourite amusement with 
 the Londoners for nearly a century past. One of the first performers 
 was Thomas Johnson, who exhibited in a field behind the Three Hats, 
 at Islington, in 1758; he was succeeded by one Sampson, in 1767, 
 whose wife was the first female equestrian performer in England. In 
 the same year, rode one Price at Dobney's Gardens, nearly opposite 
 the Belvidere Tavern, Pentonville, and where Wildman exhibited his 
 docile Bees, in 1772. About this time, Hughes established himself in 
 St. George's Fields, and Astley in Westminster Bridge Road, the latter 
 being succeeded by Ducrow and Batty. Horses in England were taught 
 dancing as early as the 13th century ; but the first mention of feats on 
 horseback occurs in the Privy Purse expenses of Henry VIII. 
 
 FAIRS. The three great Fairs of old London belonged, in Catholic 
 tunes, to the heads of religious houses : Westminster to its abbot ; and 
 St. Bartholomew and South wark, (or St. Mary Overie, as it is, oftener 
 called,) to the priors of those monasteries. 
 
 Westminster, or St. Edward's, Fair, (held on that Saint's Day,) was 
 commanded by proclamation of Edward III. in 1248 ; it was first held 
 in St. Margaret's Churchyard, and then was removed to Tothill Fields, 
 where the Fair continued to be held so lately as 1823. 
 
 Two Fairs were held in Smithfield at Bartholomew-tide : that within 
 the Priory precincts was one of the great Cloth Fairs of England : the 
 other Fair was held in the field, and granted to the City of London, for 
 cattle and goods. The latter remains, but is limited to one day, and has 
 nearly as few booths and stalls. 
 
 Southwark Fair was held on St. Margaret's Hill, on the day after 
 Bartholomew Fair; and was by charter limited to three days, but usually 
 lasted fourteen. Evelyn records among its wonders, monkeys and asses 
 dancing on the tight rope, and the tricks of an Italian wench, whom 
 all the Court went to see. Pepys tells of its puppet-shows, especially 
 that of Whittington, and of Jacob Hall's dancing on the ropes. The 
 Fair was suppressed in 1762 ; but it lives in one of Hogarth's prints. 
 
 St. James's Fair, held in the month of May, in Brook Field, gave 
 name to " May Fair." It was abolished in 1709 ; but was revived, and 
 was not finally suppressed until late in the reign of George III. 
 
 Fairs have been occasionally held in Hyde Park ; as at Coronations, 
 and the Peace Commemoration in 1814. 
 
 FIREWORKS, for pastime, are rarely spoken of previous to the reign 
 of Elizabeth ; when the foyste, or galley, with a great red dragon, and 
 " wilde men casting of fire," accompanied the lord- mayor's barge upon 
 the Thames. A writer in the reign of James I. assures us there were 
 then " abiding in the city of London men very skilful in the art of pyro- 
 technic, or of fireworkes :" which were principally displayed by persons 
 fantastically dressed, and called Green Men. In the last century, the 
 train of Artillery displayed annually a grand firework upon Tower 
 Hill on the evening of His Majesty's birthday. Fireworks were ex- 
 hibited regularly at Marybone Gardens and at Ranelagh ; but not at 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 1 1 
 
 Vauxhall until 1798, and then but occasionally. At Bermondsey Spa, 
 and various tea-gardens, they have since been displayed, in inferior style. 
 There have been some grand exhibitions at the Government expense : 
 as in the Green Park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748 ; and on 
 August 1, 1814, in celebration of the general Peace, and the Centenary 
 of the accession of the Brunswick family to the British throne ; these 
 Fireworks being by Sir "William Congreve, of " rocket" celebrity. There 
 have been similar Firework galas in Hyde Park at coronations. At the 
 Coronation of King William IV. and Queen Adelaide, Sept. 1831, the 
 amount expended for Fireworks and for keeping open the public theatres 
 was 3,034Z. 18*. Id. 
 
 At the Surrey Zoological Gardens, Walworth, there have been Fire- 
 works since 1837. 
 
 FOOT-BALL was played in the twelfth century by the youth of the 
 City in the fields ; and five centuries later, we find foot-ball players 
 in Cheapside, Covent Garden, and the Strand. 
 
 HUNTING. " The Common Hunt" dates from a charter granted by 
 Henry I. to the citizens to " have chaces, and hunt ;" and Strype, so 
 late as the reign of George I., reckons among the modern amuse- 
 ments of the Londoners, " riding on horseback, and hunting with my 
 Lord Mayor's hounds, when the Common Hunt goes out." The Epping 
 Hunt was appointed from a similar charter granted to the citizens. 
 
 Stow describes a visitation of the Lord Mayor Harper, and other 
 civic authorities, to the Tyburn Conduits, in 1562, when " afore dinner 
 they hunted the hare and killed her," at the end of St. Giles's, with 
 great hallooing and blowing of horns. 
 
 MASQUERADES were introduced into England from Italy in 1512-13, 
 by Henry VIII. They were frequent among the citizens at the Restora- 
 tion. In 1717-18, a very splendid masquerade was given at the Opera 
 House by Heidegger, at which there was high play ; heaps of guineas 
 passing about with as little concern in the losers as in the winners. 
 Soon after, the Bishops preached against these amusements, which led 
 to their suppression, 9 George I., 1723. They were, however, revived, 
 and carried to shameful excess by connivance of the Government, and 
 in direct violation of the laws. At Ranelagh, and the Pantheon in 
 Oxford Road, the most costly masquerades were given. At the Pan- 
 theon, in 1783, a masquerade was got up by Delpini, the famous clown, 
 in celebration of the Prince of Wales attaining his majority ; tickets, 
 three guineas each. In the same year, Garrick attended a masked fete 
 at the Pantheon as King of the Gipsies. In the present day, a mas- 
 querade is a dull affair : as Steele remarks : " the misfortune of the 
 thing is, that people dress themselves in what they have a mind to be, 
 and not what they are fit for." 
 
 MAYINGS AND MAT-GAMES were celebrated by "the citizens of 
 London of all estates" with Maypoles and warlike shows, "with good 
 archers, morrice dancers, and other devices for pastime, all day longj 
 and towards evening they had stage-plays and bonfires in the streets." 
 The games were presided over by the Lord and Lady of the May, de- 
 corated with scarves, ribands, and other finery ; to which were added 
 Robin Hood and Maid Marian. 
 
 May-poles were regularly erected in many parts of London on May-day 
 morning : as in Leadenhall Street (then Cornhill), before the south door 
 of St. Andrew's Church, therefore called Under- Shaft ; this pole being 
 referred to by Chaucer as " the great Shaft of Cornhill:" it was higher 
 than the church steeple (91 feet). After Evil-May- day, in 1517, the 
 pole was, in 1549, sawn into pieces, and burnt as "an idol." Another 
 celebrated May-pole was that placed in the Strand, upon the site of the 
 
12 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 present church of St. Mary : this pole was 134 feet high, and was set up 
 with great pomp and festivity in 1661 ; but, becoming old and decayed, in 
 1717 it was obtained by Sir Isaac Newton, then of the parish, and con- 
 veyed in 1718 to Sir Richard Child's park at Wanstead, as a stand for a 
 telescope presented by Mons. Hugon to the Royal Society. The custom 
 of milkmaids wearing head-dresses of silver dishes, tankards, and crosses, 
 intermixed with flowers, on May- day, is certainly as old as the reign of 
 Queen Anne. Yet, how different is all this from the youths of the city 
 on May -morning going out into the fields, which then stretched just 
 outside the city-walls, to "fetch in May;" and the city maidens gather- 
 ing May- dew ; and the sober citizens all up betimes, walking forth into 
 the " green meadows to rejoice their hearts with the sweet melody of 
 the birds," as worthy Master Stow says. 
 
 THE PARKS had their pastimes upwards of two centuries ago. The 
 French game of Paille-mall, (striking a ball with a wooden mallet through 
 an iron ring,) was introduced in the reign of Charles I. Skating was first 
 introduced into England on the new canal in St. James's Park. Evelyn 
 enters it, 1st Dec. 1662, " with scheets after the manner of the Hol- 
 landers." Pepys records, 10th Aug. 1664, Lords Castlehaven and 
 Arran running down and killing a stout buck in St. James's Park for 
 a wager, before the King ; and Evelyn enters, 19th Feb. 1666-67, a 
 wrestling match for 1000J. in St. James's Park, before his Majesty, a 
 world of Lords, and other spectators, 'twixt the western and northern 
 men, when the former won. At this time, there were in the Park 
 flocks of wild fowl breeding about the Decoy, antelopes, an elk, red- 
 deer, roebucks, stags, Guinea fowls, Arabian sheep, &c. ; and here 
 Charles II. might be seen playing with his dogs and feeding his ducks. 
 In one of St. James's Park walks, in 1770, Tom Brown tells us, there 
 walked a beau bareheaded, here a French fop, there a cluster of sena- 
 tors talking of state affairs and the price of corn and cattle, disturbed 
 by cries of " A Can of Milk, Ladies ; A Can of Red Cows' Milk, Sir." 
 
 St. James's Park has long been deserted as a fashionable promenade, 
 which it was sixty years since. " The Mall," wrote Theodore Hook, " is 
 now only useful as a thoroughfare from Whitehall to Pimlico ; and even- 
 ing promenade there is none, for the strongest possible reason, that the 
 class of persons who give the tone to society dine at the hour at which 
 their grandfathers supped, and dress for dinner at the period when their 
 ancestors, two centuries since, were undressing for bed. But the beau- 
 tiful garden has superseded the swampy meadow, and the Dutch canal 
 within the inclosure is thronged in the summer evenings with those 
 who have dined, and enjoy themselves as much as those who have not." 
 
 Hyde Park was celebrated for its deer-hunts, foot and horse races, 
 musters and coach races, boxing-matches, and Mayings. 
 
 Poaching was common in the metropolis three centuries since ; for, 
 in a proclamation of Henry VIII., 1546, (preserved in the library of the 
 Society of Antiquaries), the King is desirous to have the " Games of 
 Hare, Partridge, Pheasant, and Heron," preserved from Westminster 
 palace to St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, &c. 
 
 PIGEONS are kept in vast numbers in and round the metropolis : many 
 persons convert the spaces between the garrets and roofs of their houses 
 into lofts, by making an aperture in the tiling, which opens on a plat- 
 form fixed on the outside. The cats should, however, be kept out by 
 fences. But there are other enemies: pigeon-poachers set traps to 
 decoy their neighbours' pigeons ; and " it is calculated that we have in 
 London upwards of 2000 men thus graduating for the penal settlements." 
 Hundreds of pigeon-traps are set on a Sunday morning : the gains are 
 small, but the excitement is great, much artifice and patience being essen- 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 13 
 
 tial to success; at the utmost, "a green dragon" may produce 2s., or 
 " a fine pouter" 5*. Great numbers of pigeons, too, are lost during the 
 winter, by the slight falcon taking up its abode every year, from Octo- 
 ber and November until the spring, upon "Westminster Abbey, and 
 other churches. Pigeons build about these and other edifices ; they have 
 made nests at Somerset House, both on the side towards the water and 
 inland, for the last sixty years ; the birds are blue, but whether origin- 
 ally wild, or returned to their wild habits from the domesticated state, 
 is uncertain. Carrier-Pigeons are kept in London as messengers to the 
 race-course and the prize-ring, and for stock-jobbing transactions: in 
 1830, a pigeon flew from London to Maestricht, 260 miles, in 6| hours. 
 In Hogarth's print of the Execution of the Idle Apprentice, a pigeon is 
 flying off with the intelligence of the felon's death. Pigeon-shooting is 
 extensively practised in the neighbourhood of London : the crack shots 
 assemble at the Red House at Battersea on matches of importance, 
 when rarely a single bird escapes the shooter. To describe the varie- 
 ties of tame pigeons, as tumblers, croppers, jacobins, runts, spots, 
 turbits, owls, nuns, &c., would fill a volume. 
 
 PRISON BABS, OK BASE, is as old as the reign of Edward III., when 
 it was, by proclamation, prohibited to be played in the avenues of the 
 Palace at Westminster during the session of Parliament, from its in- 
 terruption of the members and others in passing to and fro. About 
 1780, a grand match at base was played in the fields behind Montague 
 House, by twelve gentlemen of Cheshire against twelve of Derbyshire, 
 for a considerable stake. 
 
 PUPPET-SHOWS were common at the suburban fairs in the early 
 part of the last century ; they also competed with the larger theatres, 
 until they were superseded by the revival of pantomimes. But the 
 Italian Fantoccini was popular early in the present century. The pup- 
 pet-showman, with his box upon his back, is now rarely seen in the 
 street ; but we have the artist of Punch, with his theatre. Clockwork 
 figures appeared early in the last century. In the reign of Queen Anne, 
 a celebrated show of this kind was exhibited at the great house in the 
 Strand over against the Globe Tavern, near Hungerford Market. A 
 saraband, danced with castanets, and throwing balls and knives alter- 
 nately into the air and catching them as they fall, with catching oranges 
 upon forks, formed part of the puppet- showman's exhibition. 
 
 Men and monkeys dancing upon ropes, or walking upon wires ; dogs 
 dancing minuets, pigs arranging letters so as to form words at their 
 master's command, hares beating drums, or birds firing off cannons, 
 these were favourite exhibitions early in the last century. Raree-shows, 
 ladder-dancing, and posturing, are also of this date. 
 
 "PUNCH" has for nearly two centuries delighted the Londoners; 
 there being entries of Punchinello's Booth at Charing Cross, 1666, in 
 the Overseers' Books of St. Martin 's-in-the-Fields. (Cunningham's 
 Handbook, 2d edit.)- His costume closely resembles the Elizabethan 
 peasecod-bellied doublets. Covent Garden was another of Punch's 
 early locations, where Powel's performances thinned the congregation 
 in St. Paul's Church, as we learn from No. 14 of the Spectator ; and in 
 1711-1 2, he lessened the receipts at the opera and the national theatres : 
 the showman worked the wires, and by a thread in one of Punch's chops, 
 gave to him the appearance of animation. Such was the olden contriv- 
 ance : at present, the puppets are played by putting the hand under the 
 dress, and making the middle finger and thumb serve for the arms, while 
 the fore finger works the head. Mr. Windham, when one of the Secre- 
 taries of State, on his way from Downing Street to the House of Commons, 
 was seen to stop and enjoy the whimsicalities of Punch j and in 1850, we 
 
14 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 frequently saw Punch exhibiting for the special amusement of an infant 
 Duke in Piccadilly.* Punch has not, however, been always a mere pup- 
 pet ; for we read of a farce called " Punch turned Schoolmaster ;" and 
 in 1841, was commenced " Punch ; or the London Charivari," which at- 
 tained circulation co-extensive with our language, and is known to have 
 effected high moral service, besides giving a tone to our lighter litera- 
 ture. George Cruikshank's " Punch and Judy," published in 1828, and 
 Haydon's picture, painted in 1830, are truthful illustrations of Punch. 
 
 RACKETS is nearly coeval with Tennis, which it so much resembles ; 
 Rackets being striking a ball against a wall, and Tennis dropping a ball 
 over a central net. There are Racket-grounds at the Belvidere, Pen- 
 tonville; and in the Queen's Bench Prison. Rackets was also much 
 played in the Fleet Prison, taken down in 1844. 
 
 At Westminster School is a paved court for playing the game. 
 
 SKITTLES, corrupted from kayles of the fourteenth century, and 
 afterwards kettle, or kittle-pins, was much played in and near London 
 until 1780, when the magistrates abolished all Skittle-grounds. To 
 this succeeded Nine-holes, or " Bubble-the-justice," on the supposition 
 that it could not be set aside by the justices, as it was not named in the 
 prohibitory statutes : it is now called " Bumble-puppy," and the vul- 
 garity of the term is well adapted to the company who play it. Nine- 
 pins, Dutch-pins, and Four-corners are but variations of Skittles ; and 
 as these games originated in the covering of open grounds in London 
 and its neighbourhood with houses, they will probably be forgotten 
 when additional parks and walks are provided for public recreation. 
 
 TEA-GARDENS were the favourite resorts of the middle classes in the 
 last century ; and, in most cases, they succeeded the promenades of mi- 
 neral springs. Such was Bagnigge Wells, Cold Bath Fields, taken down 
 a few years since : we remember its concert-room and organ, its grottoes, 
 and fountains, and grotesque figures, and bust of Nell Gwynne, who is 
 said to have had a country-house near this spot. Next were " Sadler's 
 Wells Music House," before it became a theatre ; Tunbridge Wells, or 
 Islington Spa ; and the Three Hats, at Islington, mentioned in Bicker- 
 staff's comedy of the Hypocrite : the house remained a tavern until 
 1839, when it was taken down. White Conduit House, Pentonville, 
 
 * Street Shows and Performers have become very numerous in the present 
 day. Such are Punch, Fantoccini, Chinese Shades, and Galantee Shows; jugglers, 
 conjurors, balancers, posturers, stiff tumblers, pole -balancers, salamanders or 
 fire-eaters, and sword and snake swallowers ; street dancers ; and performances of 
 trained animals, as dancing dogs, acting birds, and mire. The street musicians 
 include brass and other bands, Ethiopians, farm-yard fiddlers, horse organs, Ita- 
 lian organ-boys, hurdy-gurdy players, blind and crippled fiddlers, and violoncello 
 and clarionet players. Next are the peep-showmen and the proprietors of giants, 
 dwarves, industrious fleas, alligators, "happy families," and glass ships; together 
 with street telescopes, microscopes, thaumascopes, and weighing, lifting, and mea- 
 suring machines. Porsini and Pike -were celebrated Punch exhibitors : the former 
 is said to have frequently taken 10/. a-day ; but he died in St. Giles's workhouse. 
 A set of Punch figures costs about 15/., and the show about 31. The speaking is 
 done by a "call," made of two curved pieces of metal about the size of a knee- 
 buckle, bound together with black thread, and between them is a thin metal 
 plate. Porsini used a trumpet. The present artists maintain that "Punch is 
 exempt from the Police Act." The most profitable performance is that in houses ; 
 and Punch's best season is in the spring, and at Christmas and Midsummer: the 
 best " pitches" in London are in Leicester-square, Regent-street (corner of New; 
 Burlington-street), Oxford Market, and Belgrave-square. There are sixteen 
 Punch and Judy frames in England, eight of which woik in London. Fantoc- 
 cini are puppets, which, with the frame, cost about 10/. Chinese Shades consist 
 of a frame like Punch's, with a transparent curtain and movable figures ; shewn 
 only at night, with much dialogue. Selected from a Letter by Henry Mayhew ; 
 Morning Chronicle, May 16, 1850. 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 15 
 
 was originally built in the fields, in the reign of Charles I., and named 
 from a conduit in an adjoining meadow : here Topham, the Strong Man, 
 frequently exhibited his feats ; it was originally a small ale and cake 
 house, but was lately so extensive as to dine upwards of 2000 persons 
 in its largest room. An association of Protestant Dissenters, formed 
 in the reign of Queen Anne, met at this house ; the Wheel Pond, 
 close by, was a famous place for duck-hunting ; Sir William Davenant 
 describes a city wife going to the fields to " sop her cake in milke ;" 
 and Goldsmith speaks of tea-drinking parties, with hot rolls and butter, 
 at White Conduit House. A description of the place in 1774 presents 
 a general picture of the Tea-Garden of that period : " The garden is 
 formed into walks, prettily disposed. At the end of the principal one 
 is a painting, which seems to render it (the walk) longer in appearance 
 than it really is. In the centre of the garden is a fish-pond. There are 
 boxes for company, curiously cut into hedges, adorned with Flemish 
 and other paintings. There are two handsome tea-rooms, one over the 
 other, and several inferior ones in the house." The fish-pond was soon 
 after filled up, and its site planted, the paintings removed, and a new 
 dancing and tea saloon, called the Apollo-room, built. In 1826, the 
 gardens were opened as a " Minor Vauxhall;" and here Mrs. Bland, the 
 charming vocalist, last sung in public. In 1832, the small house, the 
 original tavern, was taken down, and rebuilt upon a much larger plan ; 
 but in 1849 these premises were also taken down, and re-erected on a 
 smaller scale, and the garden-ground let on building leases. 
 
 Next we reach Highbury, where originally stood the Barn of the 
 Monks of Clerkenwell : hence the old name of the Tavern, Highbury 
 Barn. Opposite Pentonville Prison is Copenhagen House, (Coopen 
 Hagen, in Camden's Britannia, 1695,) first opened by a Dane. 
 
 Toten Hall, at the north-west extremity of Tottenham Court Road, 
 was the ancient court-house of that manor, and subsequently a place 
 of public entertainment. In the parish books of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, 
 year 1645, is an entry of Mrs. Stacy e's maid and others being fined " for 
 drinking at Tottenhall Court on the Sabbath daie, xijr/. a-piece." The 
 premises next became the Adam and Eve Tea-Gardens. Before the 
 house is laid the scene of Hogarth's March to Finchley ; and in the 
 grounds, May 16, 1785, Lunardi fell with his burst balloon, and was 
 but slightly injured. The Gardens were much frequented by respect- 
 able company ; but the place falling into disrepute, the music-house 
 was taken down, and upon the site of the Skittle-grounds and Gardens 
 was built Eden Street, Hampstead Road, the public-house being rebuilt. 
 
 Chalk Farm was " the White House," to which, in 1678, the body 
 of Sir Edmundberry Godfrey was carried, after it had been found about 
 two fields distant, upon the south side of Primrose Hill. Chalk Farm 
 is still a white-washed tavern, with a tea-garden, and a field where 
 wrestling is occasionally exhibited. Several duels have been fought 
 here : here John Scott, (of the London Magazine), was shot by Mr. 
 Christie, Feb. 16, 1821 ; and here the poet Moore, and Jeffrey, of the 
 Edinburgh Review, met in 1806. 
 
 The above were the most celebrated Tea-Gardens north and north- 
 west of London. Westward lay Marybone Gardens, opened for public 
 breakfasts and evening concerts to high-class company; fireworks being 
 added. In 1777-8 these gardens were shut up, and the site let to builders ; 
 the ground being now occupied by Beaumont and Devonshire Streets, 
 and part of Devonshire Place. Next were the Bayswater Gardens, once 
 the " Physic Garden" of Sir John Hill ; and Ranelagh, the costly rival 
 of Vauxhall, but a Tea-Garden in the present century. Mulberry Gar- 
 den, upon the present site of Buckingham Palace and its gardens, dates 
 from temp. Charles I.; Pimlico was noted for its tea-gardens and ale to 
 
16 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 our day. Southward were Cumberland Gardens, the site now occupied 
 by Price's Candle Company's Works, Vauxhall Bridge; Spring Garden, 
 Vauxhall ; the Dog and Duck, and Apollo Gardens, St. George's Fields; 
 Cuper's Gardens, through the site of which runs "Waterloo Bridge Road. 
 Bermondsey had its Spa Gardens in the Grange Road ; and Cupid's 
 Gardens upon Jacob's Island, the ill-fated locality in which the cholera 
 (1848-9) first broke out in the metropolis, and where it lingered last. 
 
 Few of these old Tea-Gardens remain. In the increase of London 
 within the last half century, the environs have lost their suburban cha- 
 racter, and have become part of the great Town itself; and steamboats 
 and railways now, for very small sums, convey the over-worked artisan 
 out of its murky atmosphere into pure air and rural scenery. 
 
 TENNIS, from the French Hand-ball or Palm-play, was played in 
 London in the sixteenth century, in covered courts erected for the pur- 
 pose. Henry VII. and VIII. were fond of Tennis ; and the latter added 
 to the palace of Whitehall " tenuise-courts." James I. recommended 
 Tennis to his son, as becoming a prince. Charles II. was an accom- 
 plished Tennis-player, and had particular dresses for playing in. We 
 have a relic of these times in the Tennis-court in James Street, Hay- 
 market, which bears the date 1676, and was formerly attached to the 
 gaming-house, or Shavers' Hall, or Piccadilly Hall. Another famous 
 Tennis Court was Gibbon's, in Clare Market, where Killigrew's come- 
 dians performed for some time. There are in Holborn, Blackfriars, and 
 Southwark thoroughfares known as " Tennis Court," denoting the 
 game to have been formerly played there. 
 
 THAMES SPOBTS. Fitzstephen relates of the ancient Londoners 
 fighting "battles on Easter holidays on the water, by striking a shield 
 with a lance." There was also a kind of water tournament, in which 
 the two combatants, standing in two wherries, rowed and ran against 
 each other, and fought with staves and shields. In the game of the 
 water quintain the shield was fixed upon a post in the river, and the 
 champion, stationed in a boat, struck the shield with a lance. Justing 
 upon the ice was likewise practised by the young Londoners. Each 
 mansion upon the Thames banks had its private retinue of barges and 
 wherries, and the sovereign his gilded and tapestried barge. Stow 
 computes there to have been in his time 2000 small boats, that there 
 were 40,000 watermen upon the rolls of the company, and that they 
 could furnish 20,000 men for the fleet. All that we have left of the 
 gay water pageants are the state barges of the Sovereign and the Ad- 
 miralty, the Lord Mayor, and a few of the wealthier City companies. 
 In 1850, the old Barge of the Goldsmiths' Company was let at Rich- 
 mond, " for Pic-nic, Wedding, and Birthday Parties, at 51. 5s. per day. 
 
 Of Boat-races, the oldest is that for Dogget's Coat and Badge, on 
 August 1. We have also Regattas and Sailing Matches, to aid in the 
 enjoyment of which steamers are employed. 
 
 THEATRES originated in Miracle Plays, such as were acted in fields 
 and open places and inn-yards. The playhouse dates from the age of 
 Elizabeth ; and between 1570 and 1629, London had seventeen theatres. 
 (See THEATBESO 
 
 APOLLONICON, (THE), 
 
 A magnificent musical machine, constructed upon the principle of the 
 organ ; the sound being produced by a current of air urged by bellows 
 through several series of vertical pipes, so as closely to imitate all the 
 most admired wind instruments, with the effect of a full orchestra. 
 It is the invention of Messrs. Flight and Robson, who spent five years 
 in its completion. There are about 250 keys, upwards of 1900 pipes, 
 
APOTHECARIES' HALL. ARCADES. 17 
 
 45 draw-stops, and 2 kettle-drums : the largest double-diapason pedal- 
 pipe is twenty-four feet long and twenty-three inches square, being 
 eight feet longer than the corresponding pipe in the great organ at 
 Haarlem. The mechanism is enclosed in a case twenty-four feet high, 
 embellished with pilasters and paintings of Apollo, Clio, and Erato. 
 The Apollonicon was first exhibited at the inventors' house, 101 St. 
 Martin's Lane, in June 1817. 
 
 APOTHECARIES' HALL, 
 
 In Water Lane, Blackfriars, at the east end of Union Street, Bridge- 
 street, was built for the Company of Apothecaries, in 1670. Here are 
 several portraits, including James L, Charles L, William and Mary, 
 and a bust of Gideon Delaune, who brought about the separation of 
 the Company from the Grocers'. Adjoining the Hall are laboratories, 
 warehouses, drug-mills, and a retail shop for the sale of medicines to 
 the public. Here are prepared medicines for the army and navy. 
 
 On June 4, 1842, Mr. H. Hennell, the principal Chemical Operator 
 to the Apothecaries' Company, met a terrific death in the laboratory- 
 yard, by the explosion of between five and six pounds of fulminating 
 mercury, which he was manufacturing for the East India Company. 
 
 The Apothecaries rank as the 58th in the list of City companies. 
 Their arms are azure, Apollo in his glory, holding in his left hand a bow, 
 and in his right an arrow, bestriding the serpent Python ; supporters, two 
 unicorns ; crest, a rhinoceros, all or; motto, Opiferqueper orbem dicor. 
 
 ARCADES. 
 
 Only a few of these covered passages (series of arches on insulated 
 piers,) have been constructed in London ; although Paris contains up- 
 wards of twenty passages or galleries of similar design. 
 
 BURLINGTON ARCADE, on the west side of Burlington House, and 
 leading from Piccadilly to Burlington Gardens, was built by Samuel 
 Ware, in 1819. It consists of a double row of shops, with apartments 
 over them, a roof of skylights, and a triple arch at each end ; it is about 
 210 yards long, and the shops, seventy-two in number, produce to the 
 noble family of Cavendish 4000/. a-year ; though the property, by sub- 
 letting and otherwise, is stated to yield 8640Z. a-year. 
 
 EXETER CHANGE (the second building of the name, but on a differ- 
 ent site from the first,) is on the estate of the Marquis of Exeter, and 
 runs obliquely from Catherine-street to Wellington-street North, Strand. 
 It was designed by Sydney Smirke ; and consists of a polygonal compart- 
 ment at each extremity, the intermediate passage being about twelve feet 
 in width, by sixty in length, and twenty in height, coved and groined, 
 and lighted from above, and containing ten neat shops, with dwellings 
 over. The cove, fascia, piers, &c., have polychromic arabesque deco- 
 rations ; at each entrance to the Arcade is an imitation bronze gate ; 
 and the fronts in Catherine-street and Wellington-street are of fine red 
 brick, with stone dressings, in the style of the street architecture of the 
 reign of James I. 
 
 LOWTHER ARCADE (named from Lord Lowther, Chief Commis- 
 sioner of the Woods and Forests when it was built,) leads from 
 the triangle of the West Strand to Adelaide-street, north of St. 
 Martin's Church. It was designed by Witherden Young, and far sur- 
 passes the Burlington Arcade in architectural character : the ceiling 
 vista of small pendentive domes is very beautiful, and the caducei 
 in the angles are well executed. The length is 245 feet, breadth 20 
 feet, and height 35 feet. The sides consist of twenty-five dwellings 
 and shops, principally kept by dealers in foreign goods, who, by mu- 
 tual consent, hold in the avenue a sort of fair for German and French 
 
 c 
 
18 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 toys, cheap glass, and jewellery, &c. At the north end of the Arcade is 
 the Adelaide Gallery, where Mr. Jacob Perkins exhibited his Steam 
 Gun ; and a living Electrical Eel was shewn from August, 1838, to March 
 14, 1843, when it died ; and in 1832 was formed here a Society for the 
 Exhibition of Models of Inventions, &c. The rooms were subsequently 
 let for concerts, dancing, &c. 
 
 THE PIAZZA OR ARCADE OF COVENT GARDEN was designed about 
 1631, for Francis Earl of Bedford ; but only the north and east sides 
 were built, and half of the latter was destroyed by fire about the middle 
 of the last century. The northern was called the Great Piazza, the 
 eastern side, the Little Piazza : Inigo Jones probably took his idea from 
 an Italian city, Bologna, for instance. " The proportions of the arcades 
 and piers, crossed with elliptical and semi-circular arches into groins, 
 are exquisitely beautiful, and are masterpieces of architecture." (Elmes.) 
 
 The elevation was originally built with stone pilasters on red brick, 
 which have been for many years covered with compo' and white paint. 
 Properly speaking, the term Piazza (place, Ital.) is only applicable to 
 the enclosed area or square, the covered portion being strictly an Arcade. 
 
 The Arcade in the rear of Her Majesty's Theatre has no architec- 
 tural pretension ; but the Arcade in the front of this theatre is a good 
 specimen of Italian architecture, by Nash ; and the colonnades of fluted 
 Doric columns in the centre and sides are of iron, cast at the Butterley 
 Foundry, Derbyshire, and worth notice. 
 
 ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETIES. 
 
 There are two Societies to aid the study of the Arts and Monuments 
 of the Middle Ages : 1. The British Archaeological Association, estab- 
 lished 1843 (apartments, 32, Sackville-street, Piccadilly). 2. Archaeolo- 
 gical Institute of Great Britain and Ireland, established 1843 (apartments, 
 26, Suffolk Street, Haymarket). Each Society holds weekly or monthly 
 meetings ; publishes its Journal; has local secretaries ; and meets annually 
 in a different cathedral town, where a Museum of Antiquities is exhi- 
 bited, and whence excursions are made to sites of archaeological interest 
 in the neighbourhood. Subscription to each Society, one guinea a-year. 
 
 ARCHES. 
 
 London differs essentially from many other European capitals in the 
 paucity of its Arches, or ornamental gateways. It has only three grand 
 triumphal Arches ; whereas Paris, not half the size of our metropolis, has 
 four magnificent Arches, and the principal entrances are graced with 
 trophied gateways and storied columns. The last erected of the Pari- 
 sian arches is the Arc de VEtoile, without exception, the most gigantic 
 work of its kind either in ancient or modern times ; within its centre 
 arch would stand eight such structures as Temple Bar, that is, four in 
 depth, and as many above them : it cost 416,6GGZ. 
 
 BUCKINGHAM-PALACE ARCH, St. James's Park, reserved for the 
 especial entrance of the Sovereign and the Royal Family, was the 
 largest work of mere ornament ever attempted in Great Britain. 
 It was adopted by Nash from the arch of Constantine at Rome, and 
 has a centre gateway and two side openings; the larger archway, 
 as first designed, was not sufficiently wide to admit the royal state- 
 coach ; fortunately, the blunder was discovered in time to be re- 
 medied. The material is Carrara marble, which soon became dis- 
 coloured by smoke and damp, so as to resemble in appearance dirty 
 sugar. In each face are four Corinthian columns; the other sculp- 
 ture being a keystone to the centre archway, and a pair of figures in the 
 spandrils, a panel of figures over each side entrance, and wreaths at 
 each end : these are by Flaxman, "Westmacott, and Rossi. The centre 
 
ARGYLL ROOMS. 19 
 
 gates, designed and cast by Samuel Parker of Argyll-street, are the 
 largest and most superb in Europe, not excepting those of the Ducal 
 Palace at Venice, and of the Louvre at Paris. They are of a beauti- 
 ful alloy, the base refined copper, bronzed ; design, scroll-work, with six 
 circular openings, two filled with St. George and the Dragon, two with 
 G. R., and above, two lions passant-gardant ; height to the top of 
 arch, 21 feet ; width, 15 feet ; extreme thickness, 3 inches ; weight 5 
 tons 6 cwt. ; cost, 3000 guineas, including a frieze and semicircle, to fill 
 up the archway, the most beautiful portion of the design, but irre- 
 trievably mutilated in removal from the foundry. This Arch was not 
 included in the design for building the new front to the Palace. 
 
 THE GREEN PARK ARCH, at Hyde Park Corner, was built by De- 
 cimus Burton in 1828. It is Corinthian, and each face has six fluted 
 pilasters, with two fluted columns, flanking the single archway, raised 
 upon a lofty stylobate, and supporting a richly-decorated entablature, 
 in which are sculptured alternately G. R. IV. and the imperial crown, 
 within wreaths of laurel. The soffite of the arch is sculptured in 
 sunk panels. The gates, by Bramah, are of massive iron scroll- w.ork, 
 bronzed, with the royal arms in a circular centre. Within the pier of 
 the arch are porter's apartments, and stairs ascending to the platform, 
 where, upon a vast slab, laid upon a brick arch, the colossal equestrian, 
 statue of the Duke of Wellington was placed Sept. 30, 1846. The 
 height of the arch, its attic, and platform is about 90 feet ; of the statue, 
 30 feet. (See STATUES.) 
 
 Opposite the above arch is the elegant entrance to Hyde Park, by 
 three carriage archways and sides, in a screen of fluted Ionic columns, 
 of 107 feet frontage, designed and built by Decimus Burton, in 1828. The 
 blocking of the central archway has a beautiful frieze (Grecian naval 
 and military triumphal processions), designed by the son of Mr. Henning, 
 known for his successful models of the Elgin marbles. The gates, by 
 Bramah, are a beautiful arrangement of the Grecian honeysuckle in 
 bronzed iron ; the hanging, by rings of gun-metal, is very ingenious. 
 
 Altogether, these two Park entrances, with St. George's Hospital 
 north, and the Duke of Wellington's palatial mansion south, form the 
 finest architectural group in the metropolis, and its most embellished, 
 entrance. Sir John Soane, however, proposed two triumphal arches, 
 connected by a colonnade and arches, stretching across the main road 
 a design of superb grandeur. (See TEMPLE BAB.) 
 
 ARGYLL ROOMS, 
 
 Regent Street, a large house purchased by Col. Greville, of sporting 
 notoriety, and converted into a place of public entertainment, where 
 balls, concerts, and masquerades were much patronised by the haut ton. 
 In 1818, the Rooms were rebuilt in handsome style, by Nash, at the 
 north corner of Little Argyll Street, Regent Street : they were burnt 
 down in February, 1830, when Mr. Braithwaite first publicly applied 
 steam-power to the working of a fire-engine; it required eighteen mi- 
 nutes to raise the water in the boiler to 212, when the engine threw 
 up from thirty to forty tons of water per hour to a height of ninety feet. 
 At the Argyll Rooms, June 9, 1829, Signer Velluti, the contralto 
 singer, gave a concert. In the same year, M. Chabert, "the Fire- King,' 
 exhibited here his power of resisting the effects of poisons, and with- 
 standing extreme heat. He swallowed 40 grains of phosphorus, sipped 
 oil at 333 with impunity, and rubbed a red-hot shovel over his 
 tongue, hair, and face unharmed. Sept. 23, on a challenge of 50/., Cha- 
 bert repeated these feats, and won the wager ; he next swallowed a 
 piece of a burning torch ; and then, dressed in coarse woollen, entered 
 an oven heated to 380, sang a song, and cooked two dishes of beef- 
 
20 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 steaks ! Still, the performances were suspected, and in part proved, to 
 be a chemical juggle. 
 
 ARTESIAN WELLS 
 
 Hare been bored in various parts of the metropolis, the London basin 
 being thought well adapted for them ; there being on it a thick lining of 
 sand, and a deep bed of " London blue clay," on boring which the water 
 rises to various heights. With this view the New River Company sunk 
 a vast well at the foot of their reservoir in the Hampstead Road : the 
 excavation was steined with brick, 12 ft. 6 in. in diameter, and then 
 reduced and continued with iron cylinders, (like those of a telescope), to 
 183 feet. The expense was 12,412/. ; but the supply of water was too 
 inconsiderable for the purpose. 
 
 Artesian Wells are mostly formed by boring and driving pipes, vary- 
 ing from 6 to 10 inches or more in diameter ; but many of these only enter 
 the sand immediately below the clay, instead of obtaining the supply of 
 water from the chalk. Thus, an Artesian Well sunk in Covent Garden 
 for more than fourteen years failed to supply the ordinary wants of 
 the Market ; but having been deepened and carried ninety feet into the 
 chalk, it yielded an abundant supply, and is constantly worked, without 
 materially reducing the level of the water, or lowering it in neigh- 
 bouring wells, as in cases where the chalk is not reached. It has been 
 long known that Calvert's well, in the Thames-street Brewery, and 
 Barclay's well at the Southwark Brewery, affect each other so much 
 even though the Thames lies between them that the two firms have 
 agreed not to pump at the same time. 
 
 The following are the depths of a few of the Wells bored in 
 London : Berkeley Square, 320 feet ; Meux's Brewery, 180 feet ; Reid 
 and Co.'s, Liquorpond-street, 260 feet ; Whitbread and Co.'s, Chiswell- 
 street, 160 feet; Combe and Co.'s, Castle-street, Long Acre, 190 feet; 
 Covent Garden Market, 340 feet ; Calvert and Co.'s, 240 feet; Barclay 
 and Co.'s, 367 feet ; Piccadilly (St. James's Church), 240 feet ; Elliot's 
 Brewery, Pimlico, 390 feet ; Royal Mint, Tower Hill, 400 feet. The 
 Trafalgar Square Wells, 300 feet'and 400 feet deep, supply the two jets 
 cTeau at the rate of 500 gallons a minute ; and the Admiralty, Treasury, 
 Houses of Parliament, &c., at the rate of 100 gallons a minute, for ten 
 hours in the day, at an outlay of 9000Z-, and an annual rental of 500Z. 
 
 Dr. Buckland, the eminent geologist, states that, although there are 
 from 250 to 300 so-called Artesian Wells in the metropolis, there is not 
 one real Artesian Well within three miles of St. Paul's ; such being a 
 well that is always overflowing, either from its natural source or from 
 an artificial tube ; and when the overflowing ceases, it is no longer an 
 Artesian Well. The wells which are now made by boring through the 
 London clay are merely common wells. It has been said that a supply 
 of water, if bored for, will rise of its own accord; but the water ob- 
 tained for the fountains in Trafalgar Square does not rise within forty 
 feet of the surface, and is pumped up by means of a steam-engine the 
 same water over and over again. Dr*. Buckland maintains that the 
 supply of water formerly obtained from the so-called Artesian Wells in 
 London has been greatly diminished by the sinking of new wells ; of 
 the more than 250 wells, one-half have broken down, and others are 
 only kept in action at an enormous expense. The average depth at 
 which water can be obtained from these defective wells is 60 feet below 
 the Trinity House water -mark. 
 
 ARTILLERY COMPANY (ROYAL). 
 
 This Company originated in the body of volunteers known as the 
 City Trained Band, raised in 1585, at the period of the menaced Spanish 
 invasion ; and within two years there were enrolled nearly 300 mer- 
 
ART-UNION OF LONDON. 21 
 
 chants and others, capable of training and teaching the common sol- 
 diers. They exercised in "the Old Artillery Ground," originally a 
 field called Tassel Close, then let for archery practice, and next enclosed 
 with a wall for the Gunners of the Tower to exercise in. After 1588 , 
 the City Artillery neglected their discipline ; but in 1610 they formed 
 anew, and in a few years numbered nearly 6000. In 1622, they re- 
 moved to a larger Ground, without Moorgate, the present Artillery 
 Ground, west of Finsbury Square. 
 
 In the Civil War, the Company "behaved themselves to wonder" 
 against the King. In 1657, they numbered 12,000 ; and at the Restora- 
 tion 18,000, when they were disbanded. They, however, still continued 
 their evolutions ; and the King and the Duke of York became members, 
 the latter taking upon himself the command, and naming it his own 
 Company. The sovereign or heir-apparent has usually been the Cap- 
 tain-General : Prince George of Denmark, George I. (who gave the 
 Company 500?.), George II., and George IV. (when Prince of Wales), 
 held the command ; as did William IV., succeeded by the Duke of Sus- 
 sex, upon whose death the command was accepted by Prince Albert. 
 
 The last time the Company were in active service was at the Riots 
 of 1780, when they aided in saving the Bank of England from the pillage 
 of the mob. In case of civil disturbances being apprehended, they 
 muster at their head-quarters, the Artillery Ground, Finsbury. Here 
 are the spacious Armoury House, finished in 1735 ; and some fine pieces 
 of ordnance, including a pair of very handsome brass field-pieces, pre- 
 sented by Sir William Curtis, Bart., President ; besides portions of the 
 ancient costume and arms of the corps, as caps and helmets, pikes 
 and banners. The motto of the Company's ensign is Arma Pads ful- 
 cra Arms are the maintenance of Peace. The corps comprises six 
 companies of Infantry, besides Artillery, Grenadiers, Light Infantry, 
 and Yagers. They exercise on occasional field-days in the Artillery 
 Ground, and meet for rifle practice in the vicinity of the metropolis, the 
 prize being a large gold medal. 
 
 Upon royal visits to the City, the Artillery Company attend as a 
 guard of honour to the sovereign : as, on Nov. 9, 1837, when Queen 
 Victoria dined in Guildhall ; and Oct. 28, 1844, when Her Majesty opened 
 the New Royal Exchange. 
 
 ART-UNION OF LONDON, 
 
 A Society established 1836, and incorporated by 9th and 10th Viet., c. 48, 
 "to aid in extending the love of the Arts of Design within the United 
 Kingdom, and to give encouragement to artists beyond that afforded by 
 the patronage of individuals." The annual subscription is one guinea, 
 which entitles the subscriber to one chance for a prize in a scheme, in 
 1850 ranging from 101. to 200?., to be selected from one of the London 
 exhibitions of the year. There are also prize medals and statuettes ; and 
 every subscriber is entitled to a print or prints. 
 
 In 1836, when the Art-Union was organised, the subscriptions did 
 not amount to 500?. ; in 1837, they were 757 1. Is. ; 1839, 1295?. 14*. ; 1840, 
 2244?. 18*. ; 1841, 5562?. 18*. ; 1842, 12,905?. 11*. ; 1845, 15,4407. 5*. ; and 
 in 1847 (the largest amount), 17,871?. ; 1850, 11,180?. 8*. ; the works of 
 art allowed as prizes varying from 13 to upwards of 700. The Society 
 has about 400 local Honorary Secretaries in the provinces, in the Bri- 
 tish Colonies, in America, &c., including Canton ; it has expended about 
 150,000?. in the purchase and production of works of art ; and in one 
 morning, one of its Honorary Secretaries (Mr. G. Godwin, F.R.S.) has 
 paid to artists of the metropolis no less than 10,000?. The drawing of 
 the prizes is usually held in Drury Lane Theatre, in April, and the sub- 
 scribers are admitted by tickets : office, 445 West Strand. 
 
22 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ASHBURNHAM HOUSE, 
 
 Little Dean's Yard, Westminster, is one of the best specimens of the 
 mansions built by Inigo Jones, though omitted by his biographers. It 
 is named from John Ashburnham, the faithful attendant of King 
 Charles I. : it was purchased by the Crown, in 1730, of John Earl of 
 Ashburnham, when the Cottonian Library was removed here from a 
 house in Essex-street ; and upwards of two hundred volumes were lost 
 or irretrievably damaged in a fire, Oct. 23, 1731, when also Dr. Bentley 
 lost some valuable MSS. which he had been collecting for ten years 
 for his Greek Testament. 
 
 Ashburnham House was long the prebendal residence of the Rev. 
 H. H. Milman, appointed to the deanery of St. Paul's in 1849. The 
 small garden alcove, the ornamental ceiling of the drawing-room, the 
 finely-proportioned dining-room, and an exquisite staircase, lighted by 
 an elegant cupola, denote the taste of Inigo Jones. " In the cellars, it 
 is said, were some remains of conventual buildings, and a capital of 
 the time of King Edward the Confessor, which was built into the 
 modern wall." (Walcott's Westminfter, 1850.) 
 
 AVIARIES. 
 
 A few ingenious individuals in the metropolis and its suburbs con- 
 structed Aviaries in or adjoining their houses, long before " Zoological 
 Gardens" were thought of. Such was the Aviary of Mr. Purland, 59 
 Mortimer-street, Cavendish Square a room 18 by 19 feet, lit from 
 above, and seen from the verandah of his Museum of Antiquities. In 
 this space, from forty to fifty song-birds flew about and sung ; the 
 walls were painted with landscapes, and the floor hidden by imitative 
 rocks, hills, forests, and paddocks, intersected by a mimic river, in 
 which were living fish. Interspersed were models of celebrated houses, 
 cas;les, and ruins, windmills in activity, soldiers, country-people, with 
 cows and sheep, crossing bridges, and other automata ; all to be en- 
 joyed with the songs of the lark, robin, siskin, linnet, redpole, bulfinch, 
 greenfinch, thrush, &c. Another Aviary was constructed by Mr. W. 
 A. Foster in the house wherein Mrs. Barbauld wrote her beautiful 
 Hymns, in Church-street, Stoke Newington. This Aviary was more 
 native than Mr. Purland's : it was 25 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 12 feet 
 high, had net-work sides and top, and was placed in a flower-garden, 
 so that the birds enjoyed grassy banks, gravel paths, live shrubs, stumps 
 of trees, rock-work, a stream, a pool, and a fountain. Here were 
 blackbirds, thrushes, skylarks, woodlarks, titlarks, siskins, redstarts, 
 linnets, robins, nightingales, canaries, with nearly all " the finches of 
 the grove;" and here a skylark has bred very unusual in captivity. 
 
 In the Saracenic Conservatory of the Pantheon in Oxford Street are 
 Aviaries, with Java sparrows, canaries, and other birds of brilliant plu- 
 mage, for sale ; and fine collections of birds are to be seen at dealers'. 
 
 BALLOON ASCENTS. 
 
 The following are the more memorable Balloon Ascents made from 
 the metropolis since the introduction of aerostation into England. In 
 most cases, the aeronauts were accompanied by friends, or persons who 
 paid for the trip various sums. 
 
 Nov. 25, 1783, the first Balloon, (filled with hydrogen), launched in England, 
 from the Artillery Ground, Finsbury, by Count Zambeccari. 
 
 Sept. 15, 1784, Lunardi ascended from the Artillery Ground, Moorfields ; 
 being the first voyage made in England. 
 
 Mar. 23, 1785, Admiral Sir Edw. Vernon, accompanied by Count Zambeccari. 
 
BANK OF ENGLAND. 23 
 
 June 29, 1785, ascent of Mrs. Sage, the first Englishwoman aeronaut. 
 
 July 5, 1802, M. Garnerin made his second ascent in England, from Lord's 
 Cricket Ground ; the same year he ascended three times from Ranelagh Gardens. 
 
 Sept. 21, 1802, M. Garnerin descended successfully from a Balloon by a Para- 
 chute, near the Small-pox Hospital, St. Pancras. 
 
 1811, James Sadler ascended from Hackney; his two sons, John and Wind- 
 ham, were also aeronauts ; the latter killed, Sept. 29, 1824, by falling from aballoon. 
 
 July 19, 1821, Mr. Charles Green first ascended in a Balloon inflated with coal 
 gas, on the Coronation-day of George IV. Cost of inflation, from 251. to 50/. 
 This was Mr. Green's first aerial voyage. Up to May 1850 he had made 142 as- 
 cents from London only. Ten persons named Green have ascended in balloons. 
 
 May 25, 1824, Lieut. Harris, R N., ascended from the Eagle Tavern, City Road, 
 with Miss Stocks ; the former killed by the too rapid descent of the balloon. 
 
 July 2, 1833, Mr. Graham ascended from Hungerford Market; day of opening. 
 
 Sept. 17, 1835, Mr. Green ascended from Vauxhall Gardens, and remained up 
 during the night. 
 
 August 22, 1836, the Duke of Brunswick. 
 
 Sept. 9, 1836, Mr. Green's first ascent in his great Vauxhall Balloon. 
 
 Nov. 7, 1836, Mr Green, Mr. Moncfc Mason, and Mr. Holland ascended in the 
 great Vauxhall Balloon, and descended, in eighteen hours, at Weilburg in Nassau. 
 
 July 24, 1837, Mr. Green ascended in his great Balloon, with Mr. Cocking in 
 a parachute, from Vauxhall Gardens ; the latter killed in descending. 
 
 May 24, 1838, unsuccessful attempt to ascend with a large Montgolfier Balloon 
 from the Surrey Zoological Gardens. The balloon destroyed by the spectators. 
 It was the height of the York Column, and half the circumference of the dome of 
 St. Paul's ; and would contain, when fully inflated, 170,000 cubic feet of air. 
 
 Sept. 10, 1838, Mr. Green and Mr. Rush ascended from Vauxhall Gardens in 
 the Nassau Balloon, and descended at Lewes, Sussex; having reached the 
 greatest altitude ever attained. 27,146 feet, or 5 miles 746 feet. 
 
 July 17, 1840, the Vauxhall, or Great Nassau Balloon, sold to Mr. Green for 
 50QL, in 1836 it cost 2 100/. 
 
 August 19, 1844, Mr. Hampton ascended from White Conduit House. 
 
 July 6, 1847, Perilous night descent of Mr. Gypson's Balloon, from bursting, 
 at Vauxhall. Night ascents, with displays of fireworks, are now common. 
 
 May 24, 1850, Mr. H. Bell ascended from the Phoenix Gas Works, Kenning- 
 ton, in an " Aerial Machine," shaped like an elongated egg, which he propelled 
 with a single screw, and steered by an apparatus for nearly thirty miles, and 
 descended safely at High Laver, Essex; though a lad, in assisting him, was so 
 injured by the grapnel that he died. 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND (THE) 
 
 Is an insulated assemblage of buildings and courts, occupying three 
 acres, on the north side of the Royal Exchange, Cornhill; bounded by 
 Prince's-street, west ; Lothbury, north ; Bartholomew-lane, east ; and 
 Threadneedle-street, south, its exterior measurements are 365 feet 
 south, 410 feet north, 245 feet east, and 440 feet west. Within this 
 area are nine open courts, a spacious rotunda, numerous public offices, 
 court and committee-rooms, an armoury, engraving and printing offices, 
 a library ; apartments for officers, servants, &c. 
 
 The Bank, " the greatest monetary establishment in the world," 
 was projected, in 1691, by Mr. "William Paterson, a Scotsman ; esta- 
 blished by a company of Whig merchants, and incorporated by William 
 III., July 27, 1694, Paterson being placed on the list of Directors for 
 this year only ; the then capital, 1,200,000^., being lent to Government. 
 
 The first Governor was Sir John Houblon, whose house and garden 
 were on the site of the present Bank ; and the first Deputy-Governor 
 was Michael Godfrey, who, July 17, 1695, was shot at the siege of 
 Namur, while attending King William upon the Bank affairs. 
 
 The Bank commenced business at Mercers' Hall, and next removed 
 to Grocers' Hall, then in the Poultry ; at this time the secretaries and 
 clerks numbered but 54, and their united salaries amounted to 4350Z. In 
 1734, they removed to their own establishment, part of the present Bank, 
 built by Sampson. On Jan. 1, 1735, was set up the marble statue of Wil- 
 
24 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 liam III., by Cheere, in the Pay Hall, 79 feet by 40 feet, which, in the 
 words of Baron Dupin, would " startle the administration of a French 
 bureau, with all its inaccessibilities." 
 
 In 1757, the Bank premises were small, and surrounded by St. 
 Christopher-le- Stocks Church, (since pulled down), three taverns, and 
 several private houses : and the first chest used (somewhat larger than 
 a seaman's,) was shewn to visitors. Between 1766 and 1786, east and 
 west wings were added by Sir Robert Taylor, upon whose death, in 
 1788, Sir John Soane was appointed Architect to the Bank; and, with- 
 out any interruption to the business, he completed the present Bank 
 of brick and Portland stone, of incombustible materials, insulated, one- 
 storied, and without external windows. The general architecture is 
 Corinthian, from the Temple of the Svbil at Tivoli, of which the south- 
 west angle exhibits a fac-simile portion. The Lothbury court is very 
 fine ; and the chief cashier's office is from the Temple of the Sun and 
 Moon at Rome. The embellishments throughout are very beautiful ; 
 and the whole well planned for business. The Rotunda has a dome 
 57 feet diameter ; and the Bank-Parlour, where the G overnor and 
 Company meet, is a noble room by Taylor. Here the Dividends are 
 declared ; and here the Directors are baited half-yearly by every Pro- 
 prietor who has had 500?. Bank stock in his possession for six months. 
 In the Parlour lobby is a portrait of Daniel Race, who was in the Bank 
 service for more than half a century, and thus amassed upwards of 
 200,OOOJ. In the ante-chamber to the Governor's Room are fine busts of 
 Pitt and Fox, by Nollekens. The ante-room to the Discount Office is 
 adapted from Adrian's Villa at Tivoli. The private Drawing Office, de- 
 signed in 1836, by Cockerell (Soane's successor), is original and scenic; 
 and the Drawing Office, completed by the same architect in 1849, is 138 
 feet 6 inches long, and lit by four large circular lanterns. In 1850, 
 the Cornhill front was heightened by an attic ; and a large room fitted 
 up as a library for the clerks. 
 
 The entrance to the Bullion Yard is copied from Constantine's Arch 
 at Rome, and has allegories of the Thames and Ganges, by T. Banks, 
 R.A. The Bullion Office, on the northern side of the Bank, consists 
 of a public chamber and two vaults, one for the public deposit of bul- 
 lion, free of charge, unless weighed ; the other for the private stock of 
 the Bank. The duties are discharged by a Principal, Deputy -Princi- 
 pal, Clerk, Assistant-Clerk, and porters. The public are on no ac- 
 count allowed to enter the Bullion Vaults. Here the gold is kept in 
 bars, (each weighing 16 Ibs., and worth about 800/.,) and the silver in pigs 
 and bars, and dollars in bags. The value of the Bank bullion in May 
 1850 was sixteen millions. This constitutes, with their securities, the 
 assets which the Bank possess against their liabilities, on account of 
 circulation and deposits ; and the difference between the several amounts 
 is called "the Rest," or balance in favour of the Bank. For weighing, 
 some admirably constructed machines are used : the larger one, invented 
 by Mr. Bate, for weighing silver in bars from 50 Ibs. to 80 Ibs. troy ; 
 second, a balance, by Sir John Barton, for gold; and a third, by Mr. 
 Bate, for dollars, to amounts not exceeding 72 Ibs. 2 oz. troy. 
 
 In the Weighing Office, established in 1842, to detect light gold, is 
 the ingenious machine invented by Mr. W. Cotton, then Deputy-Go- 
 vernor of the Bank. About 80 or 100 light and heavy sovereigns are 
 placed indiscriminately in a round tube ; as they descend on the machi- 
 nery beneath, those which are light receive a slight touch, which moves 
 them into their proper receptacle ; and those which are of legitimate 
 weight pass into their appointed place. The light coins are then de- 
 faced by a machine, 200 in a minute ; and by the weighing-machinery 
 35,000 may be weighed in one day. There 'are six of these machines, 
 
BANK OF ENGLAND. 25 
 
 which from 1844 to 1849 weighed upwards of 48,000,000 pieces without 
 any inaccuracy. The average amount of gold tendered in one year is 
 nine millions, of which more than a quarter is light. The silver is put up 
 into bags, each of one hundred pounds value, and the gold into bags of a 
 thousand ; and then these bagsful of bullion are sent through a strongly 
 guarded door, or rather window, into the Treasury, a dark gloomy 
 apartment, fitted up with iron presses, supplied with huge locks and bolts. 
 
 The Bank-note machinery invented by the Oldhams, father and son, 
 exerts, by the steam-engine, the power former ly employed by the me- 
 chanic in pulling a note. The Bank-notes are numbered on the dexter 
 and sinister halves, each bearing the same figures, by Bramah's machines : 
 as soon as a note is printed, and the handle reversed to take it out and 
 put another in its place, a steel spring attached to the handle alters 
 the number to that which should follow. 
 
 The Clock in the roof is a marvel of mechanism, as it is connected 
 with all the clocks in the Stock Offices : the hands of the several dials 
 indicate precisely the same hour and second, by means of connecting 
 brass-rods, (700 feet long, and weighing 6 cwt.,) and 200 wheels ; the 
 principal weight being about 350 Ibs. 
 
 The Bank has passed through many perils : it has been attacked by 
 rioters, its notes have been at a heavy* discount, it has been threatened 
 with impeachment, and its credit has been assailed by treachery. In 
 1696 (the great re-coinage), the Directors were compelled to suspend 
 the payment of their notes. They then increased their capital to 
 2,201,271?. The Charter has been renewed, 1697 to 1711 ; 1708 to 1733; 
 1712 to 1743; 1742 to 1765; 1763 to 1786; 1781 to 1812; 1800 to 1833; 
 and 1833, by Act of 3 and 4 Wm. IV., c. 98, the Charter was renewed 
 until 1855. 
 
 The earliest panic, or run, was in 1707, upon the threatened invasion 
 of the Pretender. In the run of 1745, the Corporation were saved by 
 their agents demanding payment for notes in sixpences, and who paying 
 in the same, thus prevented the bona-fide holders of notes presenting them. 
 Another memorable run was on February 26, 1797, upon an alarm of 
 invasion by the French, when the Privy Council Order and the Restric- 
 tion Act prohibited the Bank from paying cash, except for sums under 
 20s. During the panic of 1825, from the evidence of Mr. Harman before 
 Parliament, it appears that the quantity of gold in the treasury, in 
 December, was under 1,300,000?. It has since transpired that there was 
 not 100,000?., probably not 50,000?. ! The Bank then issued one-pound 
 notes, to protect its remaining treasure; which worked wonders, 
 though by sheer good luck : " because one box containing a quantity 
 of one-pound notes had been overlooked, and they were forthcoming at 
 the lucky moment." 
 
 The Bank is the treasury of the Government ; for here are received 
 the taxes, the interest of the National Debt paid, the Exchequer busi- 
 ness transacted, &c. ; for all which the Bank is paid a per-centage or 
 commission, annually about 120,000?. ; with the profit derived from a 
 floating balance due to the public, never less than four millions sterling, 
 which, employed in discounting mercantile bills, yields 160,000?. yearly. 
 
 " The Old Lady of Threadneedle Street," applied to the Bank, is a 
 political sobriquet now almost forgotten. 
 
 The forgeries upon the Bank supply a melancholy chapter in its 
 history. The first forger of a note was a Stafford linendraper, who, 
 in 1758, was convicted and executed. Through the forgeries of one 
 person, Robert Astlett, the Bank has lost 320,000?. ; and by another, 
 (Fauntleroy,) 360,000?. 
 
 In the Riots of 1780, the Bank was defended by military, the City 
 volunteers, and the officers of the establishment, when the old inkstands 
 
26 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 were cast into bullets. It was attacked by the mob, when Wilkes rushed 
 out and seized some of the ringleaders. Since this date, a military force 
 has been stationed nightly within the Bank ; a dinner is provided for 
 the officer on guard and two friends. In the political tumult of No- 
 vember. 1830, provisions were made at the Bank for a state of siege. 
 At the Chartist Demonstration of April 10, 1848, the roof of the Bank 
 was fortified by Sappers and Miners, and a strong garrison within. 
 
 The Committee of Treasury sit weekly, and is composed of all the 
 Directors who have passed the chair, except Mr. George Warde Nor- 
 man, whose great information as to the circulation qualifies him to sit, 
 although he has never been Governor. The Accountant, the Secretary, 
 and the Cashier reside within the Bank : and a certain number of Clerks 
 sit up nightly to go the round of the building, in addition to the mili- 
 tary guard. The number of Clerks was, in 1850, 700; and the salaries 
 amounted to about a quarter of a million annually. 
 
 The Bank possess a very fine collection of ancient coins. Visitors 
 are shewn some bank-notes for large amounts which have passed be- 
 tween the Bank and the Government, including a single note for One 
 Million sterling. 
 
 Notes of the Bank, at its establishment, 20 per cent discount; in 1745 under 
 par. Bank Bills paid in silver, 1745. Bank Post Bills first issued, 1754. Small 
 Notes issued, 1759. Cash Payments discontinued, Feb. 25, 1797, and Notes of II. 
 and 21. put into circulation. Cash Payments partially resumed, Sept. 22, 1817. 
 Restriction altogether ceased, 1821. May 14, 1832, upwards of 300.000/. weighed 
 and paid to bankers and others. Quakers and Hebrews not eligible as Directors. 
 Qualification for Director, 2000Z. Bank Stock; Deputy-Governor, 3000/. ; Gover- 
 nor, 400(H. Highest price of Bank Stock, 299 ; lowest 91. The Bank has paid 
 Dividends at the rate of 21 per cent, and as low as 4| per cent, per annum. Silver 
 Tokens issued, Jan. 1798. Issue on paper securities not permitted to exceed 
 14,000,OOOJ. Capital Punishment for forgery, excepting only forgeries of wills and 
 powers of attorney, abandoned in 1832. (See Francis's popular History of the 
 Sank of England, 3d edit. 1848.) 
 
 BANK, LONDON AND WESTMINSTER. 
 
 This banking-house, facing the north-east angle of the Bank of Eng- 
 land, in Lothbury, has some striking architectural merits. It was com- 
 pleted in 1838 ; architects, Cockerell and Tite. It occupies eighty feet 
 frontage, and ninety feet depth: the front, of Portland stone, is one 
 plane, or general face, and proves that a splendid building may be 
 erected without columns or pilasters. The windows are set, as it were, 
 between piers ; the lower ones divided by bronzed candelabra, and the 
 upper ones having side-panels, decorated with caducei'and fasces, expres- 
 sive of the vis unitafortior of the joint-stock association of the esta- 
 blishment. The attic story has a cornice and balustrade, which give 
 dignity to the whole facade. At the extremities are bold piers, sur- 
 mounted by sitting figures the City of London at the east end, and 
 the City of" Westminster at the west; both modelled by Cockerell, and 
 executed by Nichol. 
 
 The interior is very original : the principal apartment, the " Town 
 Bank," exceeds even the offices of the Bank of England in height ; it is 
 a square of about thirty -four feet, as high as the entire building, fifty- 
 nine feet six inches. East and west are aisles to a portion of this 
 height, with balustraded galleries ; their sides being divided from the 
 centre by an arcade springing from Doric columns ; and the vast hall, 
 surrounded closely with lofty buildings, is mainly lighted by a dome 
 and semicircular Diocletian windows from above. Cost of the building, 
 about 50,000*. 
 
 BARBICAN, 
 A spacious thoroughfare, connecting Finsbury Square with Alders- 
 
27 
 
 gate-street, and named from a burgh-kenin, barbican, or watch-tower, 
 where now is the Watchhouse ; the same being built on high ground, 
 and of some good height : from thence " a man," says Stow, " might be- 
 hold and view the whole city towards the south, and also into Kent, 
 Sussex, and Surrey, and likewise every other way, east, north, or west." 
 Here also were the mansions of the Bridgewater family and Sir Thomas 
 "Wriothesley, Garter-King -at- Arms ; whence Brackley-street and Gar- 
 ter-court. 
 
 BARCLAY AND PERKINS' BREWERY, 
 
 In Park-street, Southwark, is the largest establishment of its class in 
 the kingdom, or in the world. It may be inspected by a letter of in- 
 troduction to the proprietors ; and a large number of the foreigners of 
 distinction who visit the metropolis avail themselves of such permission. 
 
 The Brewery and its appurtenances occupy about twelve acres of 
 ground, immediately adjoining Bankside, and extending from the land- 
 arches of Southwark Bridge nearly half of the distance to those of 
 London Bridge. Within the Brewery walls is said to be included the 
 site of the famous Globe Theatre, " which Shakspeare has bound so 
 closely up with his own history." in a history of the neighbourhood, 
 dated 1795, it is stated that " the passage which led to the Globe Tavern, 
 of which the playhouse formed a part, was, till within these few years, 
 known by the name of Globe-alley, and upon its site now stands a large 
 storehouse for porter." We are inclined to regard this evidence as 
 traditional. However, the last Globe Theatre was taken down about 
 the time of the Commonwealth ; and so late as 1720, Maid-lane (now 
 called New Park-street), of which Globe-alley was an offshoot, was a 
 long straggling place, with ditches on each side, the passage to the 
 houses being over little bridges, with little garden-plots before them. 
 (Strype's Stow.) 
 
 Early in the last century there was a Brewery here, comparatively 
 very small : it then belonged to a Mr. Halsey, who, on retiring from it 
 with a large fortune, sold it to the elder Mr. Thrale ; he became Sheriff 
 of Surrey and M.P, for Southwark; and died in 1758, leaving his property 
 to a son, the friend of Dr. Johnson, who, from 1765 to the brewer's 
 death, lived at the Brewery, and at his villa at Streatham. Before the 
 fire at the Brewery, in 1832, a room was pointed out, near the entrance 
 gateway, which the Doctor used as a study, and wherein he wrote 
 part of his Dictionary. In 1781, Mr. Thrale died; and as he had no 
 sons, his executors, of whom Dr. Johnson was one, sold the Brewery 
 jointly to Mr. Barclay and Mr. Perkins (the latter of whom had been 
 superintendent of the Brewery,) for the sum of 135,000?. ; and the pro- 
 perty is now held by the descendants of those gentlemen. The concern 
 in Thrale 's time must have been comparatively small, for he did not 
 brew annually more than one-twelfth part of the quantity now brewed 
 by the same establishment. Nevertheless, we remember it of consider- 
 ably less extent, about thirty years since. In 1832 a great portion of 
 the old premises was destroyed by fire, but was rebuilt ; mostly of 
 iron, stone, and brick. 
 
 Having crossed by Southwark Bridge to the Surrey side, we descend 
 from Bridge-road to' New Park-street, which is flanked by lofty build- 
 ings, connected by a covered bridge or passage ; these are ranges of 
 malthouses, extending northward, with a wharf to Bankside. At the 
 termination of New Park-street we proceed southward, through Park- 
 street, both sides of which are the Brewery buildings, connected by a 
 light suspension -bridge ; to the right is the vast brewhouse and princi- 
 pal entrance. From the roof of nearly the middle of the premises may 
 be had a bird's-eye view of the whole. 
 
28 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The water used for brewing is that of the river Thames, pumped up 
 by a steam-engine through a large iron main, which passes under the 
 malt warehouses, and leads to the " liquor-backs," two cisterns, which, 
 as well as their supporting columns, are of cast-iron, and reach an ele- 
 vation of some 40 feet. By this means the establishment may be sup- 
 plied with water for brewing to the extent of a hundred thousand gallons 
 daily. There is on the premises an Artesian well 367 feet deep ; but its 
 water, on account of its low temperature, is principally used for cooling 
 the beer in hot weather. 
 
 The machinery is worked throughout the Brewery by steam; there 
 are two of Boulton and Watt's engines, of 45 and 30 horse power, the 
 latter constructed in 1780. The furnace-shaft is 19 feet below the sur- 
 face, and 110 feet above ; and, by its great height, denotes the situa- 
 tion of this gigantic establishment among the forest of Southwark 
 chimneys. 
 
 The malt is carried from barges at the river-side by porters, and 
 deposited in enormous bins, each of the height or depth of an ordinary 
 three-storied house. There are few rats here, for they betake them- 
 selves to the strong drinks elsewhere on the premises ; but they are all 
 kept in check by a standing army of cats, some forty -five in number, who 
 are regularly fed and maintained. 
 
 The malt is conveyed to be ground in tin buckets upon an endless 
 leather band, (" Jacob's Ladder ) ; and thus carried to the height of 
 60 or 70 feet, in the middle of the Great Brewhouse. This stupendous 
 room is built entirely of iron and brick, and is lighted by eight large 
 and lofty windows. " There is no continuous floor; but looking up- 
 wards, whenever the steamy vapour permits, there may be seen at 
 various heights, stages, platforms, and flights of stairs, all subsidiary 
 to the cyclopean piles of brewing vessels. The coals, about 20 tons per 
 day, are drawn up from below by tackle, and wheeled along a railway ; 
 and the smoke from all the furnaces is conveyed by a large subterra- 
 nean flue to the great chimney- shaft already mentioned. 
 
 AVest of the Brewhouse are large buildings, with cooling floors, into 
 which is pumped the hot wort, or beer. The surface of one floor is not 
 less than 10,000 square feet ; and, in case of need, the men wear gigantic 
 pattens to cross the vast lakes of beer. Sometimes, the beer is more 
 rapidly cooled by passing a refrigerator in close contact with cold spring 
 water. 
 
 Both porter and ale are brewed in the large Brewhouse ; but the 
 ale is carried by pipes along the suspension-bridge, across Park-street, 
 to the opposite" building, and is there cooled, fermented, and tunned. 
 
 The cold beer is fermented in vast rooms, or squares, one of which 
 will hold 1500 barrels. The surface of one of these squares nearly 
 filled is a strange sight ; the yeast rises in rock-like masses, which 
 yield to the least wind, and the gas hovering in pungent mistiness 
 over the ocean of beer. 
 
 The beer is next conveyed to the tun-room, where are nearly 300 
 cylindrical vessels, or rounds, each holding upwards of 300 gallons; 
 and sunk in the floor is a tank, 100 feet by 20 feet. The beer is then 
 conducted through large pipes to "No. 9," where are 180 stupendous 
 tuns, in 16 storehouses. One of the largest, of these vats will contain 
 about 3500 barrels of porter, which, at the selling price, would yield 9000?. 
 The " Great Tun of Heidelberg" holds but half this quantity. The ave- 
 rage capacity of the vats, large and small together, is upwards of 
 30,000 gallons. From them the beer is drawn by hose into butts, of 
 108 gallons each. The aggregate number of casks used by the Brewery 
 exceeds 60,000. 
 
 The Large Brewhouse has been known to work throughout the 
 
THE BAROMETER. 
 
 29 
 
 year, Sundays and seven breaking-days excepted. Often 600 quarters 
 of malt are brewed daily. 
 
 There are 180 horses employed in the cartage department. They 
 are brought principally from Flanders, and cost from 50?. to 80?. each. 
 There are annually consumed by these horses 5000 quarters of oats, 
 beans, or other grain, which are bruised, 450 tons of clover, and 170 tons 
 of straw for litter. The manure, spent hops, and other refuse, are let 
 yearly ; and the lessee employs a railway company to take them from the 
 premises to his farm. There are four partners in this house : they pay 
 their head brewer a salary of 1000?. The following is a statement of 
 the malt used by several of the principal London brewers in 1849, which 
 is an average for some years past : 
 
 Qrs. 
 
 Barclay, Perkins, and Co. . 115,542 
 
 HanburyandCo 105,022 
 
 MeuxandCo. .... 59,617 
 
 Reid and Co 56,640 
 
 Whitbread and Co 51,800 
 
 Combe and Co 43,282 
 
 Qrs. 
 
 Calvert and Co 29,630 
 
 Mann and Co 24,030 
 
 Charrington and Co. . . . 22,023 
 
 Thome and Co 21,016 
 
 Taylor and Co 15,870 
 
 BAROMETER (THE) IN LONDON. 
 
 The average monthly readings of the Barometer inLondon, f as found 
 from the observations made at the Royal Society, are as follow : 
 
 inches. 
 29-82 
 
 inches. 
 29-85 
 29-88 
 29-86 
 29-86 
 
 inches. 
 
 Sept. 29-83 
 Oct. 29-81 
 Nov. 29-76 
 Dec. 29-79 
 
 Jan. 29-82 May 
 
 Feb. 29-80 June 
 
 March 29'84 July 
 
 April 29-82 Aug. 
 
 Hence the greatest monthly mean reading of the Barometer occurs in 
 June, and the least in November. 
 
 The following table shews the difference of the mean reading of the 
 Barometer in different years in the same months : 
 
 Month. 
 
 Mean reading. 
 
 Diff. of 
 readings. 
 
 Month. 
 
 Mean reading. 
 
 Diff. of 
 readings. 
 
 Greatest. 
 
 Least. 
 
 Greatest 
 
 Least. 
 
 
 inches. 
 
 inches. 
 
 inches. 
 
 
 inches. 
 
 inches. 
 
 inches. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 30-26 
 
 29-45 
 
 0-81 
 
 July 
 
 30-12 
 
 29-62 
 
 0-50 
 
 Feb. 
 
 30-26 
 
 29-40 
 
 0-86 
 
 Aug. 
 
 30-08 
 
 29-59 
 
 0-49 
 
 March 
 
 30-22 
 
 29-39 
 
 0-83 
 
 Sept. 
 
 30-05 
 
 29-59 
 
 0-46 
 
 April 
 
 30-17 
 
 29-48 
 
 0-69 
 
 Oct. 
 
 30-15 
 
 29-44 
 
 071 
 
 May 
 
 30-10 
 
 29-63 
 
 0-47 
 
 Nov. 
 
 30-20 
 
 29-40 
 
 0-80 
 
 June 
 
 30-13 
 
 29-75 
 
 0-38 
 
 Dec. 
 
 3028 
 
 29-43 
 
 0-85 
 
 Thus, we see that the mean monthly reading of the Barometer in the 
 winter months, between one year and another, exceeds three-quarters 
 of an inch ; and that in the summer months the difference is less than 
 half an inch. The month of February seems to be subject to the 
 greatest change, and the month of June to the least. 
 
 The annual range of readings is nearly two inches. The reading 
 is sometimes almost as low as 28 inches, and at times as high as 31 
 inches nearly. In February, 1849, the reading of the Barometer was 
 unusually high ; and for a long time its mean reading, from the 1st 
 to the 18th, was 30'55 inches, or fully half an inch above its average 
 value. On the day this very high reading ended at London, the Baro- 
 meter reading at Boston in America began to increase ; and during the 
 following eighteen days, the reading there was at the same value as it 
 was at London from Feb. 1 to Feb. 18. This great atmospheric wave, 
 therefore, seems just to have reached from England to America; and its 
 
30 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 rate of motion appears to have been the same whilst passing over both 
 countries. 
 
 Barometers, hitherto rare, and confined to the cabinets of virtuosi, 
 were first sold publicly in the metropolis by Jones, a clockmaker, 
 of Inner Temple Lane, who made the instrument at the suggestion of 
 Lord Keeper Guildford. 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR 
 
 Originated in two Fairs or Markets, proclaimed on the Eve of St. Bar- 
 tholomew, and continued during the next day and the next morrow. 
 One Fair was granted to the Priory of St. Bartholomew, in Smithfield, 
 for the clothiers of England and the drapers of London, who had their 
 booths and standings within the Priory churchyard (the site now 
 Cloth Fair), the gates of which were locked every night and watched, 
 for the safety of the goods and wares. The grant is by some refer- 
 red to Henry II. ; but there is a charter from Henry I., granting 
 "free peace to all persons frequenting the fair of St. Bartholomew. 
 Within its limits was also held a Court of Pie-poudre, by which persons 
 infringing upon the laws of the Fair, its disputes, debts, &c., were tried 
 the same day, and the punishment of the stocks or whipping-post sum- 
 marily inflicted. The second Fair, for cattle, stands and booths for 
 goods, with tolls and profits, was granted to the City of London, to be 
 held "in the field of West Smithfield." At the dissolution of religious 
 houses, the right in the first-mentioned Fair was sold to Sir John Rich, 
 the then Attorney-General, and was enjoyed by his descendants till 
 the year 1830, when it was purchased of Lord Kensington by the Cor- 
 poration. It greatly declined as a " Cloth Fair" from the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth ; and the Corporation granted licenses to mounte- 
 banks, conjurors, &c., and allowed the Fair to be fourteen days, the 
 sword-bearer and other city officers being paid out of the emoluments. 
 Hentzner, in 1578, describes a tent pitched for the proclamation, and 
 wrestling after the ceremony, with the crowd hunting wild rabbits for 
 the sport of the mayor and aldermen. There was formerly a burlesque 
 proclamation on the night before, by the drapers from Cloth Fair, 
 snapping their shears and shouting in Smithfield. 
 
 Ben Jonson, in his play of Bartholomew Fair, tells us of its motions, 
 or puppet-shows, of Jerusalem, Nineveh, and Norwich ; and "the Gun- 
 powder Plot, presented to an eighteen or twenty pence audience nine 
 times in an afternoon." The showman paid three shillings for his 
 ground ; and a penny was charged for every burden of goods and 
 little bundle brought in or carried out. A rare tract of the year 1641 
 describes the " variety of Fancies, the Faire of Wares, and the several 
 enormityes and misdemeanours" of the Fair of that period. At these, 
 the sober-minded Evelyn was shocked ; and Pepys (Aug. 30, 1667.) 
 found at the Fair "my Lady Castlemaine at a puppet-show," her coach 
 waiting, "and the street full of people expecting her." The sights and 
 shows included wild beasts, dwarfs, and other monstrosities; operas, 
 and tight-rope dancing, and sarabands ; dogs dancing the Morrice, and 
 the hare beating the tabor; a tiger pulling the feathers from live 
 fowls ; the humours of Punchinello, and drolls of every degree. The 
 public theatres were closed during the fair-time, the drolls finding St. 
 Bartholomew's more profitable than Dorset Garden or old Drury Lane. 
 An ox roasted whole, and piping-hot roast pig, sold in savoury lots, 
 were among the Fair luxuries, the latter called Bartholomew Pigs. 
 
 At length, the fourteen days' carnival proved too long. Accord- 
 ing to Strype, in 1708, it was again restricted to three days ; and in 
 1735, the Court of Aldermen resolved that no acting should be per- 
 
BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL. 31 
 
 mitted in the Fair ; but, in 1760, the Deputy City Marshal lost his life 
 in enforcing this regulation. 
 
 The proclamation of the Fair before the entrance to Cloth Fair was 
 a state ceremony ; the Lord Mayor proceeding thither in his gilt coach, 
 "with city officers and trumpets;" and on his way calling upon the 
 Keeper of Newgate, to partake of " a cool tankard of wine, nutmeg, 
 and sugar ;" but this custom has been discontinued since the second 
 mayoralty of Alderman Wood, in 1818. 
 
 In 1840, the entire suppression of the Fair was proposed ; when, 
 upon the recommendation of the City Solicitor, the duration was restrict- 
 ed, and the prices of ground raised, so as to reduce the Fair, in 1849, 
 to one or two stalls for ginger-bread, gambling-tables for nuts, a few 
 fruit-barrows, toy-stalls, and one puppet-show. 
 
 Hone, in his Evenj-day Book, describes (with wood-cuts,) the Bar- 
 tholomew Fair of 1825, with the minuteness of Dutch painting ; not 
 forgetting Richardson's Show, which held nearly a thousand persons, 
 and the rabble-rout of " Lady Holland's Mob." 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW'S (ST.) HOSPITAL, 
 
 In TVest Smithfield, is one of the five Royal Hospitals of the City, and 
 the first institution of the kind established in the metropolis. It was 
 originally a portion of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded by Rahere, 
 in 1102, who obtained from Henry I. a piece of waste ground, upon 
 which he built an hospital, for a master, brethren and sisters, sick 
 persons, and pregnant women. Both the Priory and the Hospital were 
 surrendered to Henry VI II., who, at the petition of Sir Richard Gre- 
 sham, Lord Mayor, and father of Sir Thomas Gresham, re-founded the 
 latter, and endowed it with an annual revenue of 500 marks, the City 
 agreeing to pay an equal sum ; since which time the Hospital has 
 received princely benefactions from charitable persons. It was first 
 placed under the superintendence of Thomas Vicary, sergeant-surgeon 
 to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth ; Harvey was physi- 
 cian to the Hospital for thirty-four years ; and here, in 1619, he first 
 lectured on his discovery of the Circulation of the Blood. 
 
 The Hospital buildings escaped the Great Fire in 1666 ; but becom- 
 ing ruinous, were taken down in 1730, and the great quadrangle rebuilt 
 by Gibbs : over the entrance next Smithfield is a statue of Henry VIII., 
 and under it, " St. Bartholomew's Hospital, founded by Rahere, A.D. 
 1102, re-founded by Henry VIII., 1546;" on the pediment are two 
 reclining figures of Lameness and Sickness. The cost of these buildings 
 was defrayed by public subscription, to which the munificent Dr. Rad- 
 clitfe contributed largely ; besides leaving 500/. a-year for the improve- 
 ment of the diet, and 100Z. a-year to buy linen. 
 
 The principal entrance, next Smithfield, was erected in 1702. 
 
 The Museums, Theatres, and Library of the Hospital are very exten- 
 sive; as is also the New Surgery, built in 1842. The Lectures of the 
 present day were established by Mr. Abernethy, elected Assistant-Sur- 
 geon in 1787. Prizes and honorary distinctions for proficiency in 
 medical science were first established 'in 1834; and their annual distri- 
 bution in May is an interesting scene. In 1843 was founded a Colle- 
 giate Establishment for the pupils' residence within the Hospital walls. 
 The Charity is ably managed by the Corporation : the president mus^ 
 have served as Lord Mayor ; the qualification of a governor is a donation 
 of 100 guineas. The Hospital receives, upon petition, cases of all kinds 
 free of fees ; and accidents, or cases of urgent disease, without letter at 
 the Surgery, at any hour of the day or night. There is also a " Sama- 
 ritan Fund," for relieving distressed patients. The several wards con- 
 tain 580 beds ; in 1849-50, patients admitted, cured, and discharged^ 
 
32 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 6146, (including 478 cases of cholera,) in-patients ; besides 71,564 me- 
 dical and surgical out-patients ; and many of them being destitute, were 
 supplied with money, clothes, and other necessaries, to enable them to 
 return to their habitations. 
 
 The interior of the Hospital, besides its cleanly and well-regulated 
 wards, has a grand staircase ; the latter painted by Hogarth, for which 
 he was made a life-governor. The subjects are the Good Samaritan ; 
 the Pool of Bethesda ; Rahere, the founder, laying the first stone ; and 
 a sick man carried on a bier, attended by monks. In the Court Room 
 is a picture of St. Bartholomew holding a knife, as the symbol of his 
 martyrdom; a portrait of Henry VIII. in Holbein's manner; of Dr. 
 Radcliffe, by Kneller ; Perceval Pott, by Reynolds ; and of Abernethy, by 
 Lawrence. 
 
 In Jan. 1846, the election of Prince Albert to a Governorship of the 
 Hospital was commemorated by the president and treasurer presenting 
 to the foundation three costly silver-gilt dishes, each nearly twenty- 
 four inches in diameter, and richly chased with a bold relief of 1. The 
 Election of the Prince; 2. The Good Samaritan ; 3. The Plague of London. 
 
 BATHS, OLDEX. 
 
 The most ancient Bath in the metropolis is " the old Roman Spring 
 Bath 1 ' in Strand Lane; but evidently unknown to Stow, though he 
 mentions the locality as " a lane or way down to the landing-place 
 on the bank of the Thames." This Bath is in a vaulted chamber, and 
 is formed of thin tile-like bricks, layers of cement and rubble- stones, 
 all corresponding with the materials of the Roman wall of London : 
 the water is beautifully clear and extremely cold. 
 
 St. Agnes-le-Clair Baths, Tabernacle Square, Finsbury, are sup- 
 posed to have been of the above age, from finding the Roman tiles 
 through which the water was once conveyed. Stow mentions them as 
 "Dame Anne's the clear." The date assigned to these Baths is 1502. 
 
 Peerless Pool, Old-street Road, is referred to by Stow as near St. 
 Agnes-le-Clair, and "one other clear water, called Perillous Pond, be- 
 cause divers youths, by swimming therein, have been drowned." In 
 1743, it was enclosed, and converted into a bathing-place. 
 
 Cold Bath, said to be "the most noted and first about London," is 
 a " cold spring," discovered about 160 years since, near the top of Mount 
 Pleasant, in Cold Bath Square, Clerkenwell. 
 
 The Duhe's Bath is in Old Belton-street, now Endell-street, Long 
 Acre ; it was new-fronted in 1845, but the original exterior had red 
 brick pilasters and cornice, in the style of Inigo Jones. There was 
 a large plunging-bath, paved and lined with marble, the walls lined 
 with small Dutch tiles ; the water supplied from a well on the pre- 
 mises. This has been popularly known as " Queen Anne's Bath." 
 
 The Queens Bagnio, in Long Acre, was on the south side, nearly 
 opposite the door of Long Acre Chapel. 
 
 The Bagnio, in Bagnio Court (altered to Bath-street in 1843), 
 Newgate Street, was built by Turkish merchants, and first opened in 
 December, 1679, for sweating, hot bathing, and cupping. The bath 
 has a cupola roof, marble steps, and Dutch tile walls, and is now used as 
 a cold Bath. In the Spectator, No. 332, is mentioned another Bagnio, 
 in Chancery Lane. 
 
 The Hummums, in Covent Garden, now an hotel, with baths, was 
 formerly " a Bagnio, or Place for Sweating ;" in Arabic " Hammam." 
 
 The' Floating Baths upon the Thames in plan remind one of the 
 Folly described by Tom Brown as " a musical summer-house," usually 
 anchored opposite Somerset House Gardens. The Queen of William 
 III. and her court once visited it ; but it became a scene of low de- 
 
BATTERSEA. 
 
 bauchery, and the bath building was left to decay, and be taken away 
 for firewood. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Bath formerly stood among a cluster of old 
 buildings adjoining the King's Mews, at Charing Cross, and was re- 
 moved in 1831. This Bath was of fine red brick, and had a groined 
 roof, apparently of the date of the fifteenth century. It is engraved in 
 the Archceologia, xxv. pp. 588-90. 
 
 BATHS AND WASH-HOUSES 
 
 For the "Working Classes originated, in 1844, with an " Association for 
 promoting Cleanliness among the Poor," who fitted up a Bath-house 
 and a Laundry in Glass-house Yard, East Smithfield; where, in the 
 year ending June 1847, the bathers, washers, and ironers amounted to 
 84,584 ; the bathers and washers costing about one penny each, and the 
 ironers about one farthing. The Association also gave whitewash, and 
 lent pails and brushes, to those willing to cleanse their own wretched 
 dwellings. And so strong was the love of cleanliness thus encouraged, 
 that women often toiled to wash their own and their children's cloth- 
 ing, who had been compelled to sell their hair to purchase food to 
 satisfy the cravings of hunger. This successful experiment led to the 
 passing of an Act of Parliament (9 and 10 Viet. c. 74), To Encourage 
 the Establishment of Baths and Wash-houses." A Committee sit at 
 Exeter Hall for the same object; a Model Establishment has been built 
 in Goulston Square, "Whitechapel ; and Baths and Wash-houses have 
 been established in St. Pancras, Marylebone, St. Martin-in -the -Fields, 
 and other large parishes. 
 
 These measures have contributed, though not so extensively as could 
 be wished, to better acquaintance with the art of Swimming, the neglect 
 of which leads to much loss of life in the metropolis. It is calculated 
 that 500 deaths occur annually in the river Thames between Richmond 
 and Gravesend ; of which one third are in the Pool. In Christ's Hos- 
 pital, the scholars are sent, at stated intervals, with proper attendants, 
 to a public bath (generally Peerless Pool), and taught to swim. Mr. 
 J. T. Finnimore, one of the best swimmers in England, and who has won 
 several prizes in matches across the Thames, Serpentine, &c., was edu- 
 cated at Christ's Hospital. 
 
 BATTERSEA, 
 
 Three miles S. W. of London, on the Surrey bank of the Thames, was 
 the birthplace of Henry Viscount Bolingbroke, at the ancient seat of the 
 St. Johns, a spacious mansion containing forty rooms on a floor. This 
 was once the resort of Pope, Swift, Arbuthnot, Thomson, Mallet, and 
 other contemporary genius of England. Bolingbroke died here in 1751, 
 and, with his second wife, niece of Madame de Maintenon, lies in the 
 family vault in St. Mary's Church, where there is an elegant monu- 
 ment by Roubiliac, with busts of the great lord and his lady ; the epi- 
 taphs on both were written by Bolingbroke : that upon himself is still 
 extant, in his own handwriting, in the British Museum. The greater 
 part of Bolingbroke House was taken down in 1778, and on the site were 
 erected an horizontal air-mill (now removed,) and a malt-distillery. In 
 the wing of the mansion, left standing, a parlour of brown polished oak, 
 with a grate and ornaments of the age of George I., was long pointed 
 out as the apartment in which Pope composed his Essay on Man. 
 
 In 1816, there was living at Battersea a Mrs. Gilliard, who well 
 remembered Lord Bolingbroke; that he used to ride out every day 
 in his chariot, and had a black patch on his cheek, and a large wart 
 over his eyebrows ; she also had often seen Mallet the poet walking in 
 
 D 
 
34 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the village, while visiting at Bolingbroke House. (See Sir Richard 
 Phillips's Morning's Walk from London to Kew, p. 54.) 
 
 The horizontal mill was erected by Captain Hooper, who also 
 built a similar one at Margate. It consisted" of a circular wheel, with 
 large boards or vanes fixed parallel to its axis, and arranged at equal 
 distances from each other. Upon these vanes the wind could act, so as 
 to blow the wheel round. But if it were to act upon the vanes at both 
 sides of the wheel at once, it could not, of course, turn it round ; hence 
 one side of the w y heel must be sheltered, while the other was submitted 
 to the full action of the wind. For this purpose it was enclosed in a 
 large cylindrical framework, with doors or shutters on all sides, to open 
 and admit the wind, or to shut and stop it. If all the shutters on 
 one side were open, whilst all those on the opposite side were closed, 
 the wind acting with undiminished force on the vanes at one side, 
 whilst the opposite vanes are under shelter, turned the mill round ; but 
 whenever the wind changed, the disposition of the blinds must be altered, 
 to admit the wind to strike upon the vanes of the wheel in the direction 
 of a tangent to the circle in which they moved. (Dr. Paris's Philo- 
 sophy in Sport.) This mill resembled a gigantic packing-case, which 
 gave rise to an odd story, that when the Emperor of Russia was in 
 England, he took a fancy to Battersea Church, and determined to carry 
 it off to Russia, and had this large packing-case made for it ; but as the 
 inhabitants refused to let the church be carried away, the case remained 
 on the spot where it was deposited. 
 
 St. Mary's Church, a tasteless brick edifice, was rebuilt in 1776: 
 the east window contains some finely painted glass, replaced from the 
 old church. Christchurch, at South Battersea, is an elegant Deco- 
 rated structure, designed by C. Lee, erected by subscription, and opened 
 in 1849. Battersea Bridge was built of wood in 1771, by fifteen pro- 
 prietors, but is unworthy of its position across a river spanned by some 
 of the finest bridges in the world. In the rich alluvial soil of Battersea 
 great quantities of asparagus are grown. 
 
 In 1846, two Acts of Parliament were passed for forming a Park and 
 constructing a Bridge and Embankment at Battersea. 
 
 BAYNARD'S CASTLE, 
 
 A stronghold, " built with walls and rampires," on the banks of the 
 Thames, below St. Paul's, by Bainiardus, a follower of William the 
 Conqueror. In 1111, it was forfeited, and granted by Henry I. to Robert 
 Fitzgerald, son of Gilbert Earl of Clare ; from whom it passed, by se- 
 veral descents, to the Fitz waiters (the chief bannerets of London, pro- 
 bably in fee for this castle), one of whom, at the commencement of a 
 war, was bound to appear at the west door of St. Paul's, armed and 
 mounted, with twenty attendants, and there receive from the Mayor 
 the banner of the City, a horse worth 201., and 201. in money. In 1428, 
 the castle became, probably by another forfeiture, crown property ; it 
 was almost entirely burnt, but was granted to Humphrey Duke of 
 Gloucester, by whom it was rebuilt ; upon his attainder, it again re- 
 verted to the Crown. Here Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, presented 
 to Richard Duke of Gloster a parchment purporting to be a declaration 
 of the three estates in favour of Richard ; and in " the Court of Bay- 
 nard's Castle" Shakspeare has laid scenes 3 and 7, act iii.,of King Richard 
 III. ; the latter between Buckingham, the Mayor, Aldermen, and citi- 
 zens, and Gloster. Baynard's Castle was repaired by Henry VII., and 
 used as a royal palace" until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when it 
 was let to the Earls of Pembroke ; and here, in" 1553, the Privy Council, 
 " changing their mind from Lady Jane," proclaimed Queen Mary. The 
 
BAZAARS. 35 
 
 castle subsequently became the residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury. 
 Pepys records King Charles II. supping here, 19th June, 1660; and six 
 years after, the castle was destroyed in the Great Fire. The buildings 
 surrounded two court-yards, with the south front to the Thames, and 
 the north in Thames-street, where was the principal entrance. Two of 
 the towers, incorporated with other buildings, remained till the present 
 century, when they were pulled down to make way for the Carron 
 Iron Company's premises. 
 
 The ward in which stood the fortress-palace is named Castle Bay- 
 nard, as is also a wharf upon the site ; and a public-house in the neigh- 
 bourhood long bore the sign of " Duke Humphrey's Head." 
 
 BAYSWATER, 
 
 In the parish of Paddington, was long noted for its springs and conduits, 
 which, until the present century, partly supplied London with water. 
 In Notes and Queries, No. 11, it is shewn that Bainiardus, who gave 
 his name to Baynard's Castle, held land here of the Abbot of Westmin- 
 ster ;'and in a grant of 1653 is described " the common field at Padding- 
 ton," (now Bays water Field,) as being " near to a place commonly called 
 Baynard's Watering." Hence it is concluded "that this portion of 
 
 ground, always remarkable for its springs of excellent water, once sup- 
 plied water to Baynard, his household, or his castle ; that the memory of 
 his name was preserved in the neighbourhood for six centuries;" and 
 that this watering-place is now Bayswater. Here was Sir John Hill's 
 " Physic Garden ;" and facing Hyde Park is a Chapel of Ease to St. 
 George's Hanover Square, in the burial-ground of which lies Lawrence 
 Sterne, his grave denoted by a head-stone set up by two Freemasons, 
 and restored by a shilling subscription in 1846. 
 
 BAZAARS. 
 
 The Bazaar is an adaptation from the East, the true principle of 
 which is the classification of trades. Thus, Paternoster-row, with its 
 books; Newport Market, with its butchers' shops; and Monmouth- 
 street, with its shoes; are more properly Bazaars than the miscella- 
 neous stalls assembled under cover, which are in London designated 
 by this name. Exeter 'Change was a great cutlery bazaar ; and the row 
 of attorneys' shops in the Lord-Mayor's Court Office, in the old Royal 
 Exchange, were a kind of legal bazaar, the name of each attorney being 
 inscribed upon a projecting sign-board. 
 
 The introduction of the Bazaar into the metropolis dates from 1816, 
 when was opened the SOHO BAZAAR, at 4, 5, and 6, Soho-square. It was 
 planned solely by the late Mr. John Trotter, with a benevolent motive. 
 At the termination of the late war, when a great number of widows, 
 orphans, and relatives of those who had lost their lives on foreign ser- 
 vice were in distress and without employment, Mr. Trotter conceived 
 that an establishment in the hands of Government would promote the 
 views of the respectable and industrious, (possessing but small means,) 
 by affording them advantages to begin business without great risk and 
 outlay of capital. Mr. Trotter having at that time an extensive range 
 of premises unoccupied, without any idea of personal emolument, offered 
 them to Government, free of expense, for several years, engaging also 
 to undertake their direction and management on the same disinterested 
 terms. His scheme was, however, considered visionary, and his offer 
 rejected. Mr. Trotter then undertook the whole responsibility himself; 
 and, by excellent management, the establishment has flourished for 
 thirty-four years, having been opened 1st February, 1816. This suc- 
 cess is mainly attributable to the selection of persons of respectability 
 as its inmates, for whose protection an efficient superintendence of seve- 
 
36 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ral matrons is provided. The rent of the counters, mostly for fancy 
 goods, is Bd. per square foot, paid daily. To obtain a tenancy, it is 
 requisite that a testimonial, signed by eight persons, be presented, on 
 application, to the Managers of the Bazaar. The establishment is in 
 two floors, and, in 1850, there were from 160 to 170 tenants. These, 
 together with many more persons employed at their homes, in connexion 
 with the Bazaar, come within the range of its influence ; and means are 
 constantly used to afford each an opportunity of profiting by religious 
 counsel and guidance. 
 
 The success of the Soho Bazaar led to similar establishments ; and 
 for a short time Bazaars flourished, to the injury of shopkeepers. 
 
 The WESTERN EXCHANGE, Old Bond-street (with an entrance from 
 the Burlington Arcade), was burnt down, and not re-established. 
 
 The QUEEN'S BAZAAR, on the north side of Oxford-street, the rear 
 in Castle-street, was destroyed, May 28, 1829, by a fire which commenced 
 at a dioramic exhibition of " the Destruction of York Minster by Fire." 
 The Bazaar was rebuilt ; but proving unsuccessful, was taken Jown, 
 and upon the site was built the present Princess' Theatre. 
 
 The PANTHEON BAZAAR, on the south side of Oxford-street, with an 
 entrance in Great Marlborough-street, was constructed in 1834, from 
 the designs of Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., within the walls of the Pan- 
 theon Theatre, built in 1812 ; the fronts to Oxford-street and Poland- 
 street being the only remains of the original structure. The magnifi- 
 cent staircase leads to a suite of rooms, in which pictures are placed 
 for sale ; and thence to the great Basilical Hall or Bazaar, which is 116 
 feet long, 88 feet wide, and 60 feet high ; it is mostly lighted from curved 
 windows in the roof, which is richly decorated, as are the piers of the 
 arcades, with arabesque scrolls of flowers, fruit, and birds ; the orna- 
 ments of papier-mache by Bielefield. The style of decoration is from 
 the loggias of the Vatican. The galleries and the floor are laid out 
 with counters, and promenades between. From the southern end of 
 the hall is the entrance to an elegant conservatory and aviary, mostly 
 of glass, ornamented in Saracenic style. Here are birds of rich plu- 
 mage, with luxuriant plants, which, with the profusion of marble, gild- 
 ing, and colour, have a very pleasing effect in the heart of smoky town. 
 
 The BAZAAR in BAKER-STREET, Portman-square, was originally 
 established for the sale of horses ; but carriages, harness, furniture, 
 stoves, and glass are the commodities now sold here. Madame Tussaud's 
 Wax- work Exhibition occupies the greater part ; and here, annually, 
 early in December, the Smithfi eld- Club Cattle-Show takes place. 
 
 The PANTECHNICON, Halkin-street, Belgrave-square, is a Bazaar 
 chiefly for carriages and furniture. Here, too, you may warehouse 
 furniture, wine, pictures, and carriages, for any period, at a light 
 charge compared with house-rent. 
 
 The LOWTHER BAZAAR, nearly opposite the Lowther Arcade, Strand, 
 is a repository of fancy goods, besides a "Magic Cave," and other exhi- 
 bitions. The establishment was frequently visited by Louis Philippe 
 from 1848 to 1850. This and the house adjoining, eastward, have fronts 
 of tasteful architectural design. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S BAZAAR, King-street, St. James's-street, was built for 
 Mr. Crockford in 1832, and has a saloon nearly 200 feet long by 40 
 wide. Here were exhibited, in 1841, three dioramic tableaux of the 
 second obsequies of Napoleon, in Paris, in December, 1841. And in 
 1844 took place here the first exhibition of Decorative Works for the 
 New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The most imposing Bazaar display was, however, that made in the 
 
BELGRAVIA. 37 
 
 spring of 1845, when the auditory and stage of Govent-Garden Theatre 
 were fitted up as a BAZAAR for the ANTI-CORN-LAW LEAGUE, who, in 
 six weeks, cleared 25,OOOZ. by the speculation, partly by admission-money. 
 The Theatre was painted as a vast Tudor Hall by Messrs. Grieve, and 
 illuminated with gas in the day-time ; the goods being exhibited for 
 sale on stalls, appropriated to the great manufacturing localities of the 
 United Kingdom. At this time, the Theatre was let to the League at 
 3000 guineas for the term of holding the Bazaar, and one night per 
 week for public meetings throughout one year. 
 
 BEGGAKS. 
 
 Begging, although illegal, and forbidden by one of our latest sta- 
 tutes, is followed as a trade in the metropolis, perhaps, more system- 
 atically than in any other European capital. It has been stated that 
 the number of professional Beggars in and about London amounts to 
 15,000, more than two-thirds of whom are Irish. 
 
 The vigilance of the Police, and the exposure of Beggars' frauds by 
 the press and upon the stage (from the Beggar's Opera to Tom and 
 Jerry), have done much towards the suppression of Begging. The Men- 
 dicity Society, in Red Lion Square, Holborn, established in 1818, has also 
 moderated the evil by exposing and punishing impostors, and relieving 
 deserving persons. The receipts of this Society are upwards of 4000J. 
 a year : in 1839, the applicants were 16,785 ; in 1840 (a severe winter), 
 23,117 ; in January and February, 1841, there were 20,903 applicants, 
 many with large families, when 104,352 meals were given, and 1385 
 begging-letters investigated ; and in 1840, the number of these letters 
 was 5074. The Society has a mill, stone -yard, and oakum-room, in 
 which, during one day, there have been employed 763 persons, who 
 would otherwise have been begging in the streets. The Society keep 
 a record of all begging-letter cases, from which police-magistrates 
 obtain information as to the character of persons brought before them. 
 
 Many years ago, there died in Broad Street Buildings, aged 81, John 
 Yardley Vernon, who wore in the streets the garb of a beggar, though 
 he possessed 100,000/., which he had realised as a stockbroker. 
 
 BELGRAVIA 
 
 Was originally applied as a sobriquet to Belgrave and Eaton Squares and 
 the radiating streets, but is now received as the legitimate name of that 
 "City of Palaces." In 1824, its site was "the Five Fields," inter- 
 sected by mud-banks, and occupied by a few sheds. The clayey swamp 
 retained so much water, that no one would build there ; and the " Fields" 
 were the terror of foot-passengers proceeding from London to Chelsea 
 after nightfall. At length, Mr. Thomas Cubitt found the strata to consist 
 of gravel and clay, of inconsiderable depth : the clay he removed, and 
 burned into bricks; and by building upon the substratum of gravel, h# 
 converted this spot from the most unhealthy to one of the most healthy, 
 to the immense advantage of the ground-landlord and the whole metro- 
 polis. This is one of the most perfect adaptations of the means to the 
 end to be found in the records of the building art. In 1829, the same 
 land, consisting of about 140 acres, was nearly covered with first and 
 second-class houses, the nucleus being Belgrave Square, designed by 
 George Basevi ; the detached mansions, at the angles, by Hardwick, Ken- 
 dall, and others ; the area of the square occupying about ten acres. The 
 level is low ; for it has been ascertained that the ground-floor of West- 
 bourne Terrace, Hyde Park Gardens, 70 feet above the Thames high- 
 water mark, is on a level with the attics of Eaton and Belgrave Squares. 
 Yet Chelsea acquired a proverbial salubrity in the last century by 
 Doctors Arbuthnot, Sloane, Mead, and Cadogan residing there. 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BELLS AND CHIMES. 
 The following are the principal peals of Church Bells in London : 
 
 BELLS. 
 
 St. Giles, Cripplegate; St. Saviour, Southwark ; St. Bride, Fleet Street; 
 St. Martin-in-the-Fields; St. Leonard, Shoreditch 12 
 
 Christchurch, Spitalfields; St. Sepulchre, Skinner Street . . . .11 
 
 St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside; St. Magnus', Lower Thames Street ; St. Dionis', 
 Fenchurch Street; All Saints, Poplar; St. Dunstan, S'epney; St. John, 
 Horsleydown; St. James, Bermondsey ; St. Giles, Camberwell ; St. Luke 
 (New), Chelsea 10 
 
 St. George in the East 9 
 
 We find the Curfew mentioned to a very late period as a common 
 and approved regulation. Among the charges directed for the ward- 
 mote inquests in London, in the mayoralty of Sir Henry Colet, A.D. 
 1495, it is said: "Also yf there be anye paryshe clerke that ryngeth 
 curfewe after the curfewe be ronge at Bow Chyrche, or St. Bryde's 
 Church, or St. Gyles- without- Cripelgate, all suche to be prevented." 
 (Knight's Life of Dean Colet, p. 6.) The same charge remained in 
 the wardmote inquest as printed in 1649. 
 
 " Bow BELLS" are of olden celebrity : the Citizens' love of them led 
 to persons born within their sound being called genuine " Cockneys." 
 In 1469, by an Order of Common Council, Bow Bell was to be rung 
 nightly at nine o'clock, and lights were to be exhibited in the steeple 
 during the night, to direct the traveller towards the metropolis. The 
 present Bells, bought by subscription, were first rung June 4, 1762, the 
 birthday of George III. They are not allowed to be rung in the scien- 
 tific method, but only in set changes, lest the vibration should cause 
 the fall of the new spire ! The twelve bells of St. Saviour's, Southwark, 
 were not rung at the opening of New London Bridge, in 1831, on 
 account of the alleged insecurity it would occasion to the tower. The 
 tenor of this peal weighs 52| cwt. ; that of Bow, 53 cwt. 
 
 ST. SEPULCHRE'S BELL has a melancholy history. In 1605, Mr. R. 
 Dowe left 501. to this parish, on condition that a person should go to 
 Newgate in the still of the night before every execution -day, and, 
 standing as near as possible to the cells of the condemned, should, with 
 a hand-bell, (which he also left,) give twelve solemn tolls, with double 
 strokes, and then deliver this impressive exhortation : 
 " All you that in the condemned hole do lie, 
 
 Prepare you, for to-morrow you shall die ; 
 
 Watch, all, and pray, the hour is drawing near 
 
 That you before the Almighty must appear ; 
 
 Examine well yourselves, in time repent, 
 
 That you may not t' eternal flames be sent. 
 
 And when St. Sepulchre's Bell to-morrow tolls, 
 
 The Lord have mercy on your souls ! 
 
 Past twelve o'clock !" 
 
 Dowe likewise ordered that the great Bell of the church should 
 toll on the morning ; and that, as the criminals passed the wall to Ty- 
 burn, the bellman or sexton should look over it and say, " All good 
 people, pray heartily unto God for these poor sinners, who are now 
 going to their death ;" for which he who says it is to receive ll. 6s. 8d. 
 The place of execution being changed, a part of this ceremony has been 
 long discontinued; and let us hope that the gift ere long will be a free one. 
 
 CHKISTCHUKCH, Spitalfields', BELLS are scarcely inferior to any in 
 the kingdom ; the tenor weighs 44 cwt., or 4928 Ibs. 
 
 Occasionally, some fine feats of Bell-ringing are executed. On Mon- 
 day evening, March 13, 1843, the Society of Cumberland rang a com- 
 plete peal of Cinques on " Stedman's principle." consisting of 5146 
 
BELLS AND CHIMES. 39 
 
 changes, in four hours, two minutes, at St. Bride's, Fleet Street; it 
 being the first peal in that scientific method ever performed on the Bells. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL has four Bells, one in the northern, and 
 three in the southern or clock -tower : the former is tolled for prayer 
 three times a-day, and has a clapper ; but neither of the four can be 
 raised upon end and rung, as other church bells. In the clock-tower 
 are hung two Bells for the quarters, and above them is hung the GREAT 
 BELL, on gudgeons or axles, on which it moves when struck by the 
 hammer of the clock. It weighs 11,474 Ibs., and its diameter is nine 
 feet. It was cast principally from the metal of the Bell in the clock- 
 tower opposite Westminster Hall Gate, which, before the Reforma- 
 tion, was named " Edward," after the Royal Confessor ; subsequently 
 to the time of Henry V11I., as appears by two lines in Eccles's Glee, it 
 was called " Great Tom," as Gough conjectures, by a corruption of 
 " Grand Ton," from its deep, sonorous tone. On August 1, 1698, 
 the clocharcl, or clock-tower, was granted by William III. to St. 
 Margaret's parish, and was taken down ; when the Bell was found to 
 weigh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 21 Ibs., and was bought at Wd. per lb., producing 
 385/. 17s. Gd., for St. Paul's. While being conveyed over the boundary 
 of Westminster, under Temple Bar, it fell from the carriage ; it stood 
 under a shed in the Cathedral Yard for some years, and was at length 
 re-cast, with additional metal, in 1716, the inscription stating it to have 
 been " brought from the ruins of Westminster." 
 
 " The key-note (tonic) or sound of this Bell is A flat, (perhaps it 
 was A natural, agreeably to the pitch at the time it was cast,) but the 
 sound heard at the greatest distance is that of E flat, or a fifth above 
 the key-note; and a musical ear, when close by, can perceive several 
 harmonic sounds." (W. Parry.} 
 
 The Great Bell is never used, except for the striking of the hour, 
 and for tolling at the deaths and funerals of any of the Royal Family, 
 the Bishop of London, the Dean of the Cathedral, and the Lord Mayor, 
 should he die in his mayoralty. The same hammer which strikes 
 the hours has always been used to toll the Bell, on the occasion of 
 a demise ; but the sound produced on the latter occasions is not so 
 loud as when the hour is struck, in consequence of the heavy clock- 
 weight not being attached when the Bell is tolled, and causing the 
 hammer to strike with greater force than by manual strength. 
 
 It was the Westminster " Great Tom" which the sentinel on 
 duty at Windsor Castle, during the reign of William III., declared to 
 have struck thirteen instead of twelve times at midnight, and thus 
 cleared himself of the accusation by the relief-guard of sleeping upon 
 his post. The story is told of St. Paul's Bell ; but the Cathedral had 
 no heavy Bell until the above grant by King William, who died in 
 1702 ; the circumstance is thus recorded in the Public Advertiser, Fri- 
 day, June 22, 1770 : 
 
 Mr. John Hatfield, who died last Monday at his house in Glasshouse Yard, 
 Aldersgate, aged 102 years, was a soldier in the reign of William and Mary, and 
 the person who was tried and condemned by a court-martial for falling asleep on 
 his duty upon the Terrace at Windsor. He absolutely denied the charge against 
 him, and solemnly declared that he heard St. Paul's clock strike thirteen ; the 
 truth of which was much doubted by the court, because of the great distance. 
 But whilst he was under sentence of death, an affidavit was made by several per- 
 sons, that the clock actually did strike thirteen instead of twelve; whereupon he 
 received his Majesty's pardon." 
 
 CHIMES. The only Chimes now existing in the metropolis are those 
 of St. Clement Danes, in the Strand; St. Giles's, Cripplegate; and St. 
 Dionis, Fenchurch Street. The Cripplegate chimes are the finest in Lon- 
 don ; they were constructed by a poor working man. Formerly, several 
 
40 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 churches in London, including those of St. Margaret and St. Sepulchre, 
 had chime-hammers annexed to their bells. 
 
 In each Royal Exchange, the business has been regulated by a bell : 
 in Gresham's original edifice was a tower " containing the bell, which 
 twice a-day summoned merchants to the spot at twelve o'clock at 
 noon, and at six o'clock in the evening." (Burgon's Life and Times of 
 Sir T. Gresham, ii. 345.) 
 
 The Chimes at the Royal Exchange, destroyed by fire in 1838, 
 played, at intervals of three hours, " God save the Queen," " Life let us 
 cherish," the old 104th Psalm, (on Sundays,) and " There's nae luck 
 about the house," which last air they played at twelve o'clock on the 
 night of the fire, just as the flames reached the chime-loft. 
 
 In the new Exchange, Chimes have not been forgotten. The airs 
 have been arranged by Mr. E. Taylor, the Gresham Professor of Music ; 
 which Mr. Dent has applied on the Chime-barreL The airs are : 
 
 1. A Psalm tune, by Henry Lawes, the friend of Milton ; it is in the key of B 
 flat, so as to exhibit the capability of the chimes to play in different keys. 
 
 2. God save the Queen, in E flat. 3. Rule Britannia. 
 
 4. An air selected by Professor Taylor to exhibit the power of the bells. The 
 key in which the bells are set is E flat. There are fifteen bells, and two hammers 
 to several, so as to play rapid passages. There are frequently three hammers 
 striking different bells simultaneously, and sometimes live. The notes of the 
 bells are as follow : B flat, A natural, A flat, G, F, E flat, D natural, D flat, C, B 
 flat, A natural, A flat, G, F, and E flat. The first bell, B flat, weighs 4 cwt. 26 Ibs., 
 and its cord, 8 cwt. 2 qrs. 5 Ibs ; the four bells, A flat, G, F, and E flat, weigh seve- 
 rally, 10 cwt. 1 qr. 9 Ibs., 12 cwt. 2 qrs. 27 Ibs., 15 cwt. 2 qrs. 14 Ibs., and 23 cwt. 
 2 qrs. 24 Ibs. The united weight of them is 131 cwt.l qr. They were cast by 
 Messrs. Mears, of Whitechapel. 
 
 BERMOXDSEY, 
 
 Is a large parish in Surrey, adjoining the Borough of South wark ; and 
 named Beormund's eye, or island, from its having been the property of 
 some Saxon or Danish Thane, and the land being insulated by water- 
 courses connected with the Thames. In 1082, a wealthy citizen built 
 here a convent, wherein some Cluniac Monks settled in 1089, to whom 
 "William Rufus gave the manor of Bermondsey ; and numerous dona- 
 tions and grants followed, until this became one of the most consider- 
 able alien priories in England. From its vicinity to London, the mo- 
 nastery occasionally became the residence of some of our kings. Ka- 
 therine of France, widow of Henry V., retired to this sanctuary, and 
 died here, Jan. 3, 1437 ; and Elizabeth Widvile, relict of Edward IV., 
 was committed to the custody of the monks by her son-in-law, Henry 
 VII., and ended her days here, in penury and sorrow, in 1492. 'Among 
 ihe persons of note interred here is said to have been Margaret de la 
 Pole, executed by Henry VIII. in 1513. The Abbey occupied the ground 
 between Grange "Walk (where was a farm) and Long Walk, which was a 
 passage between the monastic buildings and the conventual church ; the 
 latter a little south of the present parish church of St. Mary Magdalene, 
 originally founded by the Priors of Bermondsey for their tenantry, re- 
 built in 1680, and since repaired. Among the communion plate is an 
 ancient silver alms-dish, supposed to have belonged to the Abbey. 
 
 A drawing in the late Mr". Upcott's collection shewed the Monastery 
 as rebuilt early in the reign of Edward III., and the cloisters and re- 
 fectory in 1380. After the surrender of the establishment to Henry 
 VIIL, he granted it to Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls : it was 
 by him sold to Sir Thomas Pope, who, in 1545, pulled down the ancient 
 Priory Church, and with the materials built Bermondsey House, where 
 died Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex (Lord Chamberlain to Queen 
 Elizabeth), in 1583. The east gate of the monastery was taken down 
 about 17 GO ; the great gate-house was nearly entire in 1806, shortly 
 
BERMONDSEY. 41 
 
 after which all the ancient buildings were removed, and Abbey-street 
 built on their site. Bermondsey-square now occupies the great close 
 of the Abbey, and Grange-road was its pasture-ground, extending to 
 the farm or Grange ; the ancient water-course, the Neckinger, was 
 formerly navigable from the Thames to the Abbey precincts. 
 
 Adjoining the monastery was an Almonry, or Hospital, for " indi- 
 gent children and necessitous converts," erected by Prior Richard in 
 1213, but not to be traced after the Reformation. 
 
 There is also, in the Spa Road, a Grecian church, opened in 1829 : 
 the altar-piece is a large picture of "the Ascension," painted by John 
 "Wood in 1844, and the prize picture selected from among eighty com- 
 petitors for 500?. bequeathed for this purpose by Mr. Harcourt, a 
 parishioner, and awarded by Eastlake and Haydon. St. Paul's Gothic 
 Church and Schools were opened in 1848 ; "and Christ Church and 
 Schools, Neckinger Road, (Romanesque,) in 1849. 
 
 The Roman Catholic population of Bermondsey exceeds 5000 per- 
 sons ; they have a large church near Dockhead, opened in 1835. Pre- 
 cisely three centuries after the Dissolution of the Monasteries, was 
 founded here, in 1838, a Convent for " the Sisters of Mercy." The in- 
 mates are mostly ladies of fortune, and support a school for 200 children. 
 Sister Mary, the Lady Barbara Eyre, second daughter of the sixth Earl 
 of Newburgh, took the vows December 12, 1839 ; with Miss Ponsonby, 
 now Sister Vincent. 
 
 At Bermondsey, perhaps, is carried on a greater variety of trades 
 and manufactures than in any other parish of the kingdom. It has 
 been the seat of the Leather Market for nearly two centuries ; its series 
 of tidal streams from the Thames twice in twenty-four hours supplying 
 water for the tanners and leather-dressers. At the Neckinger Mills 
 here, nearly half a million of hides and skins are converted into leather 
 yearly ; and in the great Skin Market are sold the skins from nearly all 
 the sheep slaughtered in London. Steam-machinery is much employed 
 in the manufactories ; and in Long-lane is an engine chimney-shaft 175 
 feet high. Here is Christy's Hat Manufactory, employing 500 persons, 
 and considered the largest establishment of the kind in the world. 
 Here, too, abound paper and lead mills, chemical works, boat and ship 
 builders, mast and block makers, rope and sail makers, coopers, tur- 
 pentine works, &c. The tidal ditches, with their filthy dwellings, 
 produced cholera in 1832 and 1848-9; in the latter year 189 deaths 
 occurred in 1000 inhabitants. Here was Jacob's Island, so powerfully 
 pictured in Dickens's novel of Oliver Twist. There were till lately 
 thirty miles of tidal ditches in the district ; but these nuisances have 
 been abated by the exertions of the General Board of Health. 
 
 Bermondsey Spa, a chalybeate spring, discovered about 1770, was 
 opened, in 1780, as a minor' VauxhaU, with fireworks, and a picture- 
 model of the Siege of Gibraltar, painted by Keyse,and occupying about 
 four acres. He died in 1800, and the garden was shut up about 1805. 
 There are Tokens of the place extant, and the Spa-roadis named from it. 
 
 In the parish was born Mary Johns, the daughter of a cooper, in 
 1752, who wrote the Lord's Prayer in the compass of a silver penny. 
 
 Viewed from the Greenwich Railway, which crosses its north- 
 eastern side, Bermondsey presents a curious picture of busy life, amid 
 its streams and tan-pits, its narrow streets, close rents and lanes, by no 
 means tributary to the public health. Yet the district has long been 
 noted for longevity ; and from 90 to 105 years are not uncommon in 
 the burial registers. 
 
 In the Registers, 1604, is "the forme of a solemne Vowe made 
 betwixt a Man and his Wife, having been longe absent, through which 
 occasion the Woman beinge married to another Man, took her again." 
 
42 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BETHLEHEM, OR BETHLEM HOSPITAL, 
 
 Originated in an establishment founded as a " priory of canons, with 
 brethren* and sisters," in 1246, by Simon Fitz-Mary, a sheriff of Lon- 
 don; towards which he gave all his lands in St. Botolph without Bishops- 
 gate, being the spot afterwards known as Old Bethlem, now Liverpool- 
 street. This priory stood on the east side of Morefield, from which it 
 was divided by a deep ditch. It is described as " an Hospital " in 1330 ; 
 in 1346 it was received under the protection of the City of London, who 
 purchased the patronage, lands, and tenements in 1546; and in the same 
 year, Henry Y11I. gave the Hospital to the City, though not before he 
 had endeavoured to sell it to them, 
 
 Bethlem is, however, first mentioned as an hospital for lunatics in 
 1402. The earliest establishment of the kind in the metropolis appears, 
 from Stow, to have been "by Charing Cross," though when founded 
 is unknown ; "but it was said that some time a king of England, not 
 liking distraught and lunatic people to remain so near his palace, caused 
 them to be removed farther off to Bethlem ;" to which Hospital the site 
 of the house in question belonged till 1830, when it was exchanged with 
 the Crown to make way for the improvements at Charing Cross. 
 
 The priory buildings becoming dilapidated, another Hospital was 
 built in 1675-76, on the south side of Moor Fields, north of the London 
 Wall, on ground leased to the Governors by the Corporation for 999 
 years, at 1*. annual rent, if demanded. This, the centre of Old Beth- 
 lem Hospital, cost 17,000?., raised by subscription : it was designed by 
 Robert Hooke ; but there is no foundation for the traditional story of 
 its so closely resembling the palace of the Tuileries, that Louis XIV., 
 in retaliation, ordered a copy of our King's palace at St. James's to be 
 built for his offices. 
 
 This second Bethlem was 540 feet in length and 40 feet in breadth ; 
 it was surrounded by gardens, in one of which the convalescent lunatics 
 were allowed to walk : the whole was enclosed by a high wall and gates, 
 the posterns of the latter surmounted with two finely-sculptured figures 
 of Raving and Melancholy Madness, by Caius Gabriel Gibber. 
 
 In 1733, two wings were added for incurable patients. In 1754, the 
 Hospital is described as consisting chiefly of two galleries, one over the 
 other, divided in the middle by two iron gates, so that all the men were 
 placed at one end of the house and all the women at the other ; there 
 was also " a bathing-place for the patients, so contrived as to be a hot 
 or cold bath." The Hospital then held 150 patients. The favourite re- 
 sort of the poor inmates was the Fore-street end of the building, from 
 the windows of which they could look out upon the unafflicted passen- 
 gers in the streets below. 
 
 Nat Lee, the tragic poet, to madness near allied, was confined here 
 four 3*ears, and did not live long after his release. 
 
 Here, too, was confined Oliver Cromwell's gigantic porter, who is 
 traditionally said to have been the original of one of Cibber's figures. 
 
 Hannah Sn ell, out-pensioner of Chelsea Hospital, for wounds received 
 at the siege of Pondicherry, died a patient of Bethlem, Feb. 8, 1792. 
 
 et Tom o' Bedlams " was the name given to certain out-door patients, 
 or pensioners, for whom room could not be found in the Hospital ; they 
 wore upon their arms metal plates, licensing them to go a-begging, 
 
 * They wore the order of Bethlem, or the Star, and a star upon their mantles, 
 and were subject to entertain the Bishop of Bethlem whenever he came to Lon- 
 don ; hence the name of the Hospital. " St. Theodosius, (born 423, died 529,) 
 established near Bethlehem a monastery, to which were annexed three infir- 
 maries, one for the sick, one for the aged and feeble, and the other for such as 
 had lost their senses, in which all succours, spiritual and temporal, were afforded 
 with admirable order, care, and affection." Butler's Lives of the Saints. 
 
BETHLEM HOSPITAL. 43 
 
 which many cunning impostors adopted, until a notice from the Hos- 
 pital put an end to the fraud. 
 
 In 1799, the Hospital was reported by a committee to be in a very 
 bad condition : it had been built in sixteen months, upon part of the 
 City ditch filled in with rubbish, so that it was requisite to shore-up and 
 underpin the walls. At length, it was resolved to rebuild the Hospital ; 
 and in 1810 its site, 2| acres, was exchanged for about 11 acres in St. 
 George's Fields, including the gardens of the infamous Dog and Duck. 
 The building fund was increased by grants of public money, benefac- 
 tions from the Corporation, City companies, and private individuals. 
 The first stone of the new edifice, for 200 patients, was laid in April 
 1812, and completed in August 1815 r at a cost of 122,572?. 8s., the exact 
 sum raised for the purpose. It was built from three prize designs, 
 superintended by the late Mr. Lewis : it consists of a centre and two 
 wings, the entrance being beneath a hexastyle Ionic portico of six 
 columns, with the royal arms in the pediment, and underneath the 
 motto : HEN. vm. BEGE FUNDATVM CIVIUM LARGITAS PERFECIT. 
 Two wings, for which the Government advanced 25,144?., are appro- 
 priated to criminal lunatics. Other buildings have since been added, for 
 166 patients, by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. the first stone of which was laid 
 July 26, 1838, when a public breakfast was given at a cost of 464?. 8*. 
 to the Hospital, and a narrative of the proceedings was printed at a 
 charge to the charity of 140?. The entire building is three stories in 
 height, and 897 feet in length. To the centre was added a large and 
 lofty dome in 1845 ; the diameter is 37 feet, and it is about 150 feet in 
 height from the ground. The Hospital and grounds extend to eight 
 acres ; the adjoining three acres being devoted to the House of Occu- 
 pations, a branch of Bridewell Hospital. 
 
 In the entrance-hall are placed Cibber's two statues, from the old 
 Hospital : they are of Portland stone, and were restored by the younger 
 Bacon in 1814 ; they are screened by curtains, which are only with- 
 drawn upon public occasions : some of the irons formerly used are also 
 shewn as curiosities. The basement and three floors are divided into 
 galleries. The improved management was introduced about 1816. The 
 patients employ themselves in knitting and tailoring, in laundry-work, 
 at the needle, and in embroidery ; the women have pianos, and occa- 
 sionally dance in the evening ; the men have billiard and bagatelle 
 tables, newspapers, and periodicals ; and they play in the grounds 
 at trap-ball, cricket, fives, leap-frog, &c. Others work at their trades, 
 in which, though dangerous weapons have been entrusted to them, no 
 mischief has ensued, and the employment often induces speedy cure. 
 The railed-in fire-places and the bone knives are almost the only visible 
 peculiarities ; there are cells lined and floored with cork and India- 
 rubber for refractory patients. The building is fire-proof throughout, 
 and warmed by hot air and water. 
 
 From the first reception of lunatics into Bethlem, their condition 
 and treatment was wretched in the extreme. In a visitation of 1403 
 are mentioned iron chains with locks and keys, and manacles and stocks. 
 In 1598, the house was reported so loathsome and so filthily kept, as 
 not fit to be entered ; and the inmates were termed prisoners. In a 
 record of 1619 are expenses of straw and fetters. Up to the year 1770, 
 the public were admitted to see the lunatics at ]?. each, by which the 
 Hospital derived a revenue of at least 400?. a year : hence Bethlem became 
 one of "the sights of London ;" and such was the mischief occasioned 
 by this brutal and degrading practice, that, to prevent disturbances, the 
 porter was annually sworn a constable, and attended with other ser- 
 vants to keep order. So late as 1814, the rooms resembled dog-ken- 
 nels; the female patients were chained by one arm or leg to the wall, 
 
44 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 were covered by a blanket-gown only, the feet being naked ; and they 
 lay upon straw. The male patients were chained, handcuffed, or locked 
 to the wall ; and chains were universally substituted for the strait- waist- 
 coat. One Norris, stated to be refractory, was chained by a strong 
 iron ring, riveted round his neck, his arms pinioned by an iron bar, and 
 his waist similarly secured, so that he could only advance twelve inches 
 from the wall, the length of his chains ; and thus he had been " encaged 
 and chained more than twelve years ;" yet he readbooks of various kinds, 
 the newspapers daily, and conversed rationally : a drawing was made 
 of Norris in his irons, and he was visited by several members of Parlia- 
 ment, shortly after which he died, doubtless from the cruel treatment 
 he had received. This case led to a Parliamentary inquiry, in 1815, 
 which brought about the adoption of a new method of treatment in 
 Bethlem ; although, in two years, 660/. were expended from the Hos- 
 pital funds in opposing the bill requisite for the beneficial change. 
 
 The last female lunatic released from her fetters was a most violent 
 patient, who had been chained to her bed eight years, her irons riveted, 
 she being so dangerous that the matron feared being murdered if she 
 released her ; in May 1838, she was still in the New Hospital, and was 
 the only patient permitted to sleep at night with her door unlocked ; 
 the slightest appearance of restraint exasperated her ; but on her release 
 she became tranquil, and happy in nursing two dolls given to her, which 
 she imagined to be her children. 
 
 The criminal lunatics are maintained and clothed at the expense of 
 Government, and cost nearly 4000?. a year; they are charged 13s. 6cL 
 a week, or 351. per annum, whereas the average charge for pauper 
 lunatics in country asylums is but Is. Most of the criminals are con- 
 fined for murder, committed or attempted. Among them was Margaret 
 Nicholson, for attempting to stab George III. ; she died here in 1828, hav- 
 ing been confined forty-two years. Here is confined Oxford, for shoot- 
 ing at Queen Victoria, in St. James's Park, June 10, 1840; he is idiotic 
 rather than insane. Here, too, is M'Naughten, for shooting Mr. E. 
 Drummond, at Charing Cross, January 20, 1843. In 1841, died James 
 Hadfield, who had been confined here since 1802, for shooting at George 
 III., at Drury Lane Theatre. He was a gallant dragoon, and his face 
 was seamed with scars got hi battle before his crime: he employed 
 himself with writing poetry on the death of his birds and cats, his only 
 society in his long and wearying imprisonment. 
 
 Bethlem is not visited by Commissioners, but is managed by the 
 officers and Governors. The following cases are inadmissible : luna- 
 tics who have been insane for more than twelve months ; who have been 
 discharged uncured from other hospitals ; afflicted with idiotcy, palsy, or 
 epileptic or convulsive fits, or any dangerous disease. The patients are 
 not allowed to remain more than one year ; they are classed as " cur- 
 able," "incurable," and "criminals." Patients are admitted by peti- 
 tion to the Governors from a near relation or friend; forms to be ob- 
 tained at the Hospital. The visiting days are two Mondays in each 
 month ; for taking in and discharging patients, every Friday. In 1849, 
 there were admitted 150 males, 194 females. Discharged cured 70 
 males, 106 females. The annual rate of mortality in Bethlem is 7 per 
 cent; in other asvlums, from 13 to 22 per cent. (Registrar- GeneraVs 
 Report, 1850.) 
 
 The income of Bethlem and Bridewell Hospitals amounts to about 
 33,OOOZ. per annum, mostly the accumulation of private benevolence. 
 
 From November 22, 1841, Bethlem Hospital, with its purlieus and 
 approaches, was considered to be within the rules of the Queen's Bench, 
 by an order of that Court, until their abolition. 
 
 Strangers are admitted, on Tuesdays, "Wednesdays, Thursdays, and 
 
BILLINGSGATE. 45 
 
 Fridays, to view the Hospital by Governors' orders ; and foreigners and 
 Members of Parliament by orders from the president, treasurer, or 
 Secretary of State ; but the average yearly number of visitors does not 
 exceed 550. Still, few sights can be more interesting than the present 
 condition of the interior of Bethlem. The scrupulous cleanliness of the 
 house, the decent attire of the patients, and the unexpectedly small 
 number of those under restraint, (sometimes not one person throughout 
 the building,) lead the visitors, not unnaturally, to conclude that the 
 management of lunatics has here attained perfection ; while the quiet 
 arid decent demeanour of the inmates might almost make him doubt that 
 he is really in a madhouse. The arrangements, however, are compara- 
 tively, in some instances, defective : the building being partly on the 
 plan of the old Hospital in Moorfields, in long galleries, with a view to 
 the coercive system there pursued, is, consequently, ill adapted to the 
 present improved treatment. 
 
 Above the door of the entrance- lodge are sculptured the arms of 
 the Hospital, Argent, tivo bars sable, a file of five points gules, on a 
 chief azure en etoile of sixteen rays or, charged with a plate, thereon a 
 cross of the third, beticeen a hitman shull placed on a cup, on the dexter 
 side, and a basket of Wastell bread, all of the fifth, on the sinister. 
 
 BETHNAL GREEN, 
 
 A village or large green, formerly a hamlet of Stepney, but made a 
 parish (St. Matthew) in 1743. The old English ballad of The Blind 
 Beggar of Bednall Green has given the district a long celebrity; the 
 story " decorates not only the sign -posts of the publicans, but the staff 
 of the parish beadle." (Lysons). The story has been cleverly wrought 
 into a drama by Sheridan Knowles. The mansion traditionally pointed to 
 as " the Blind Beggar's Home" was, however, built by John Thorpe, 
 in 1570, for a citizen of London, and called, after him, " Kirby's Castle." 
 Here was a mansion said to have been a palace of Bishop Bouner's, and 
 taken down in 1849, in forming Victoria Park. Between 1839 and 
 1849, there were built here ten district churches, principally through 
 the exertions of Dr. Blomfield, Bishop of London : the tenth of these 
 churches (St. Thomas's) was built at the sole cost of a private indi- 
 vidual. Silk-weavers live in great numbers at Bethnal Green. 
 
 BILLINGSGATE 
 
 Is stated to take its name from having been the gate of King Belin, a 
 king of the Britons, about 400 B. c. But this rests upon no better 
 authority than Geoffrey of Monmouth, and is doubted by Stow, who 
 suggests that the gate was called from some owner named Beling or 
 Biling : Stow describes it as " a large water-gate, port, or harborough 
 for ships and boats, commonly arriving there with fish, both fresh and 
 salt, shell-fishes, salt, oranges, onions, and other fruits and roots, wheat, 
 rye, and grain of divers sorts, for the service of the city." It has been 
 a quay, if not a market, for nearly nine centuries, since the customs 
 were paid here under Ethelred IL, A.D. 979 ; and fishing-boats paid toll 
 here, according to the laws of Athelstan, who died 940. Its present 
 appropriation dates from 1699, when, by an Act of "William III., it was 
 made "a free and open market for all sorts offish;" and was fixed at 
 the western extremity of the Custom House, on the northern bank of 
 the Thames, a short distance below London Bridge. 
 
 The Market, for many years, consisted of a collection of wooden 
 pent-houses, rude sheds, and" benches ; it commenced at three o'clock in 
 the summer and five in the winter ; in the latter season it was a strange 
 
 ne, its large flaring oil lamps shewing a crowd struggling amidst 
 Babel din of vulgar tongues, such as rendered " Billingsgate" a 
 
 scene 
 a 
 
46 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 byword for low abuse : " opprobrious, foul-mouth language is called 
 Billingsgate discourse." (Martin's Dictionary, 1754, second edit.) In 
 Bailey's Dictionary we have '-'a Billingsgate, a scolding, impudent 
 slut." Tom Brown gives a very coarse picture of her character ; 
 and Addison refers to " debates which frequently arise among the 
 ladies of the British fishery." She wore a strong stuff gown, tucked 
 up, and shewing a large quilted petticoat ; her hair, cap, and bonnet 
 flattened into a mass by carrying a basket upon her head ; her coarse, 
 cracked cry, and brawny limbs, and red, bloated face, completing a 
 portrait of the " fish-fag ' of other days. 
 
 Not only has the virago disappeared, but the market-place has been 
 rebuilt, and its business regulated by the City authorities, with especial 
 reference to the condition of the fish; and in 1849 was commenced 
 the further extension of the market. There is no crowding, elbow- 
 ing, screaming, or fighting, as heretofore ; coffee has greatlv superseded 
 spirits ; and a more orderly scene of business can scarcely be imagined. 
 The market is daily, except Sundays, at five A.M., summer and winter, 
 announced by ringing a bell, the only relic of the olden rule. The fish- 
 ing-vessels reach the quay during the night, and are moored alongside 
 a floating wharf, which rises and falls with the tide. The oyster-boats 
 are berthed by themselves, the name of the oyster cargo "is painted 
 upon a board, where they are measured out to purchasers. The other 
 fish are carried ashore in baskets, and there sold, by Dutch auction, to 
 fishmongers, whose carts are waiting in the adjoining streets. The' 
 wholesale market is now over j but there remain the bummarees, who 
 supply the costermongers, &c. 
 
 All fish is sold by tale, except oysters and shell-fish, which are sold 
 by measure, and salmon by weight. In February and March, about 
 thirty boxes of salmon, each one cwt., arrive at Billingsgate per day ; 
 the quantity gradually increases, until it amounts, in July and August, 
 to 1000 boxes; (during one season it reached 2500 tons) the fish being 
 finest when it is lowest in price. Of lobsters, Mr. Yarrell states a 
 twelvemonth's supply to be 1,904,000 ; of turbots, 87,958. The specu- 
 lation in lobsters is very great ; hi 1816, one Billingsgate salesman is 
 known to have lost 1200J. per week, for six weeks, by lobsters ! Pe- 
 riwinkles are shipped from Glasgow, fifty or sixty tons at a time, to 
 Liverpool, and sent thence by railway to London, where better profits 
 are obtained, even after paying so much sea and land carriage. Some- 
 times there is a marvellous glut of fish : thus, in two days from 90 to 
 100 tons of plaice, soles, and sprats have been landed at Billingsgate, 
 and sold at two and three Ibs. a penny; soles, 2d. ; large plaice Id. each. 
 
 A full season and scarce supply, however, occasionally raise the price 
 enormously ; as in the case of four guineas being paid for a lobster for 
 sauce, which, being the only one in the market, was divided for two 
 London epicures ! During very rough weather, scarcely an oyster 
 can be procured in the metropolis. In the height of the season, a fine 
 cod-fish has been sold for a guinea and a half. 
 
 Mackerel were, in 1698, first allowed to be cried through the streets 
 on a Sunday ; but, by the 9 and 10 Victoria, passed August 3, 1846, the 
 sale of mackerel on a Sunday was declared illegal. 
 
 At Billingsgate is the " Three Tuns Tavern," with a fine view of the 
 river, where a table dhote dinner of three kinds of fish, with meat, &c., 
 may be had for Is. 6d. : hours, one and four. 
 
 BIRDS OF LONDON. 
 
 Birds, for the most part, avoid cities and large towns ; but there 
 have been some remarkable exceptions to this rule noted in the metro- 
 polis by careful observers. 
 
BIRDS OF LONDON. 47 
 
 The House-Sparrow is to be seen in nearly every locality. In 1850, 
 there was a numerous colony of sparrows upon the west side of the 
 court-yard of No. 94 Piccadilly, the residence of the Duke of Cambridge. 
 Another nesting-place for sparrows was the capitals of the Corinthian 
 columns of the portico of Carlton House. 
 
 There was, too, a noted rookery in the lofty trees of the grounds of 
 Carlton House : on these being cut down, the birds removed, in 1827, 
 to some trees in the rear of New-street, Spring-gardens. Perchance, 
 few remember the satirical lament of Tom Hudson's song : " Now the 
 old rooks have lost their places." Rooks build in the south church- 
 yard of St. Dunstan-in-the-East, Tower-street. The rookery, before 
 the last church was removed, consisted of upwards of twenty nests; 
 and they were annually supplied with osier -twigs, and other materials 
 for building. The colony migrated to the Tower of London, when 
 disturbed for the pulling down of the church in 1817 ; they built in the 
 "White Tower, but returned as soon as the noise of axes and hammers 
 had ceased. In 1849, their building-materials were hospitably provided 
 for them by Mr. Crutchley, the assistant-overseer : the trees are plane. 
 There was also, formerly, a rookery on some large elm-trees in the 
 College Garden, behind the Ecclesiastical Court, in Doctors' Commons. 
 There is, too, a rookery in the fine trees near Kensington Palace. 
 
 " We have rooks in the very heart of London, on a noble plane-tree 
 which grows at the corner of Wood-street, Cheapside. There are now, 
 -(May, 1850,) signs of four nests in that tree ; but I am unable to state 
 whether they have reared their young in that locality. Rooks, how- 
 ever, build in the crowns surmounting the highest pinnacles of the 
 turrets of the Tower of London ; and there is another rookery in 
 Gray's-Inn Gardens. Pigeons have lately taken to build on the tops of 
 the pillars of the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange : so that 
 London can now boast of three kinds of birds which rear their young, 
 viz. sparrows, pigeons, and rooks. "We have every year a robin or 
 two at Finsbury Circus, but it does not build ; and we are frequently 
 favoured with a visit from starlings." (Instinct and Reason, by A. 
 Smee, F.R.S., 1850.) 
 
 The Swallow, Swift, and Martin seem to have almost deserted Lon- 
 don, although they are occasionally seen in the suburbs. The scarcity 
 of the Swallow is referred to most of the chimneys having conical or 
 other contracted tops to them, which is no inducement for this bird 
 to build in them. In 1826, Mr. Jennings observed Martins' nests in 
 Goswell-street Road, and on Islington Green. 
 
 The Redbreast has been occasionally seen in the neighbourhood of 
 Fleet Market and Ludgate Hill : in November 1825, Mr. Jennings saw 
 it in the City Road; where, in November 1826, he saw the Wren. 
 
 The Thrush is often heard in the Regent's Park. Some of the mi- 
 gratory birds approach much nearer London than is generally imagined. 
 The Cuckoo and Wood-pigeon are heard occasionally in Kensington 
 Gardens. The Nightingale is often heard at Hornsey-wood House, 
 Hackney, and Mile- end. (See Jennings's Ornithologia, 1829.) 
 
 The London gardens are much more injured by insects than those 
 in the country, on account of the smaller number of insectivorous birds, 
 the great number of bird-catchers, and, in some respects, the cats, in 
 and about the metropolis ; and their scarcity is not, as is frequently 
 alleged, owing to the smoke, the number of houses, the want of trees 
 and food, because every kind of bird will live and thrive in cages in the 
 heart of London. 
 
 In James-street, on the north side of Covent Garden, a Bird Mar- 
 ket was formerly held on Sunday mornings. 
 
 The Canary is much reared in the metropolis j there are Societies for 
 
48 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 this purpose, the principal being the Friendly, the Royals, the Ama- 
 teurs, and the Hand-in-Hand. Several varieties are distinguished ; and 
 there is a " London criterion of a perfect Canary." The Fancy hold 
 their principal Shows in November and December, at the Gray's Inn 
 Coffee-house, Holborn, and the British Coffee-house, Cockspur-street. 
 
 BLACKFRIARS, 
 
 The district between Ludgate Hill and the river Thames ; and anciently 
 a monastery of Black or Dominican Friars, who removed here from 
 Holborn in 127 G, to a piece of ground given them by Gregory Rocksley, 
 Mayor. The monastery, church, and a mansion were built with the 
 stone from the tower of Montfichet, and from part of the City wall. 
 Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were great benefactors to the new 
 convent. Here the King kept his charters and records ; and great 
 numbers of the nobility dwelt in the precinct. In the church, divers 
 parliaments and other great meetings were held. In 1522, the Em- 
 
 Henry's divorce from Katherine of Arragon was decided here ; and the 
 parliament which condemned Wolsey, assembled at Blackfriars. The 
 precinct was very extensive, was walled in, had four gates, and contained 
 many shops, the occupiers of which were allowed to carry on their 
 trades, although not free of the city, privileges maintained even after 
 the dissolution of the monasteries. In the View of London (1543), in 
 the Sutherland Collection, the church of Blackfriars is shewn with a 
 lofty tower and spire, and the end towards the Fleet river flanked with 
 two large turrets. Part of this church was altered and fitted up for 
 parochial use ; it was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and the 
 church of St. Andrew by the Wardrobe erected in its place. 
 
 Taking advantage of the sanctuary privilege, Richard Burbage and 
 his fellows, when ejected from the City, built a playhouse in the Black- 
 friars precinct, and here maintained their ground against the powerful 
 opposition of the City and the Puritans. Shakspeare had a share in 
 this theatre, and part of its site is now Playhouse Yard. The poet 
 possessed other property here ; for in the City of London Library, at 
 Guildhall, is preserved a deed of conveyance to Shakspeare of a house 
 bought by him March 10, 1612-13, and bequeathed by him to his 
 daughter, Susannah Hall. This document was sold by auction, May 24, 
 1841, for 1651. 15*. 
 
 Three eminent painters resided in Blackfriars : Isaac Oliver, the 
 celebrated miniature-painter, who died in 1617, and is buried in St. 
 Anne's ; Cornelius Jansen, the portrait-painter, employed by King 
 James I. ; and Van Dyck, during his nine years' abode in England. 
 
 At Hunsdon House, in the Friary, on Sunday, Oct. 26, 1623, there 
 perished 59 persons by the falling of a floor, during the preaching of a 
 sermon by Father Drury; the catastrophe is recorded as "the Fatal 
 Vespers." 
 
 In 1735, the right of the City to the jurisdiction of the precinct was 
 decided in their favour in an action against a shalloon and drugget 
 seller, tried in the Court of King's Bench ; since which Blackfriars has 
 been one of the precincts of Farringdon Ward. 
 
 BLACKWALL, 
 
 On the north bank of the Thames, and at the eastern extremity of the 
 West India Docks, is said to have been originally called Bleak wall, 
 from its exposed situation on the artificial bank or wall of the river, 
 through the winding of which it is nearly eight miles from the City, 
 
BLIND-SCHOOL (THE). 49 
 
 though less than half that distance by land. Here, on the Brunswick 
 "Wharf or Pier, is the handsome Italianised terminus (by Tite) of the 
 Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-street, 4J miles in length. 
 
 To the large taverns at Blackwall and Greenwich gourmets flock to 
 eat "Whitebait, a delicious little fish caught in the Reach, and directly net- 
 ted out of the river into the frying-pan. They appear about the end of 
 March or early in April, and are taken every flood-tide until September. 
 
 Pennant describes Whitebait as esteemed by the lower order of epicures. It 
 this account be correct, there must have been a strange change in the grade of 
 the epicures frequenting Greenwich and Blackwall since Pennant's days ; for at 
 present the fashion of eating Whitebait is sanctioned by the highest authorities, 
 from the court of St. James's in the West to the Lord Mayor and his court in the 
 East ; besides the philosophers of the Royal Society ; and her Majesty's Cabinet 
 Ministers, who wind up the Parliamentary session with their " annual fish din- 
 ner," whither they go in an Ordnance barge, or a Government steamer. 
 
 Whitebait are taken by a net in a wooden frame, the hose having a very small 
 mesh. The boat is moored in the tideway, and the net fixed to its side, when the 
 tail of the hose, swimming loose, is from time to time handed in to the boat, the 
 end untied, and its contents shaken out. Whitebait were thought to be the young 
 of the shad, and were named from their being used as bait in fishing for whitings. 
 By aid of comparative anatomy, Mr. Yarrell, however, proved Whitebait to be a 
 distinct species, Clupea alba. 
 
 Perhaps the famed delicacy of Whitebait rests as much upon its skilful cookery 
 as upon the freshness of the fish. Dr. Pereira has published the mode of cooking 
 in one of Lovegrove's " bait-kitchens" at Blackwall. The fish should be dressed 
 within an hour after being caught, or they are apt to cling together. They are 
 kept in water, from which they are taken by a skimmer as required ; they are then 
 thrown upon a layer of flour, contained in a large napkin, in which they are shaken 
 until completely enveloped in flour ; they are then put into a colander, and all 
 the superfluous flour is removed by sifting; the fish are next thrown into hot lard 
 contained in a copper cauldron or stew-pan placed over a charcoal fire; in about 
 two minutes they are removed by a tin skimmer, thrown into a colander to 
 drain, and served up instantly, by placing them on a fish-drainer in a dish. The 
 rapidity of the cooking process is of the utmost importance ; and if it be not 
 attended to, the fish will lose their crispness, and be worthless. At table, lemon- 
 juice is squeezed over them, and they are seasoned with Cayenne pepper; brown 
 bread and butter is substituted for plain bread; and they are eaten with iced 
 champagne, or punch. 
 
 An important thing to be noticed is the vast extent of iron ship- 
 building carried on here, an art of construction but of twenty years' 
 growth. A great portion of Blackwall and the Isle of Dogs is occupied 
 in this building trade, with its clanking boiler-works, and its Cyclopean 
 foundries and engineering shops, in which steam is the primum mobile. 
 Then, what a range of size have these steamers from the huge troop- 
 ship, or war-vessel (for foreign as well as British service), to the half- 
 penny " bread-and-butter boats," which flit about above bridge from the 
 City to Chelsea. 
 
 In the East India Docks, at Blackwall, arrived, April 1848, a large 
 Chinese Junk, the first ever seen in England ; and here it was exhi- 
 bited until May 1850. 
 
 BLIND-SCHOOL (THE), 
 
 Or the School for the Indigent Blind, was established in 1799, at the 
 Dog and Duck premises, St. George's Fields ; and for some time received 
 only fifteen blind persons. The site being required by the City of Lon- 
 don for the building of Bethlem Hospital, about two acres of ground 
 were allotted opposite the Obelisk, and there a plain school-house for 
 the blind was built. In 1826, the School was incorporated ; and in the 
 two following years three legacies of 500Z. each, and one of 10,000, 
 were bequeathed to the establishment. In 1834, additional ground was 
 purchased, and the school-house remodelled, so as to form a portion of 
 a more extensive edifice in the Tudor or domestic Gothic style, de- 
 
50 CURIOSITIES OF LO]ST)OX. 
 
 signed by John Newman, F.S.A. The tower and gateway in the north 
 front are very picturesque; the School will now accommodate 220 
 inmates. The pupils are clothed, lodged, and boarded, and receive a 
 religious and industrial education ; so that many of them have been re- 
 turned to their families able to earn from 6*. to 8*. per week. Appli- 
 cants are not received under twelve, nor above thirty, years of age ; 
 nor if they have a greater degree of sight than will enable them to dis- 
 tinguish fight from darkness. The admission is by votes of the sub- 
 scribers ; and persons between the age of twelve and eighteen have 
 been found to receive the greatest benefit from the instruction. 
 
 The pupils may be seen at work between ten and twelve A.M., and 
 two and five P.M., daily, except Saturdays and Sundays. The women 
 and girls are employed in knitting stockings and needlework ; in spin- 
 ning, and making household and body linen, netting silk, and in fine 
 basket-making ; besides working baby-hoods, bags, purses, watch- 
 pockets, &c. of tasteful design, both in colour and form. The women 
 are remarkably quick in superintending the pupils. The men and boys 
 make wicker baskets, cradles, and hampers ; rope door-mats and wor- 
 sted rugs ; and they make all the shoes for the inmates of the School. 
 Reading is mostly taught by Alston's raised or embossed letters, in 
 which have been printed the Old and New Testament, and the Liturgy. 
 Both males and females are remarkably cheerful in their employment : 
 they have great taste and aptness for music, and they are instructed in 
 it, not as a mere amusement, but with a view to engagements as or- 
 ganists and teachers of psalmody ; and once a year they perform a con- 
 cert of sacred music in the chapel or music-room : the public are ad- 
 mitted by tickets, the proceeds from the sale being added to the funds 
 of the institution. An organ and piano-forte are provided for teaching ; 
 and above each of the inmates of the males' working-room usually hangs 
 a fiddle. They receive, as pocket-money, part of their earnings; and 
 on leaving the school, a sum of money and a set of tools, for their respec- 
 tive trades, are given to them. 
 
 Among the other Charities for the Blind is the munificent bequest 
 of Mr. Charles Day, (of the firm of Day and Martin, High Holborn), 
 who died in 1836, leaving 100,000?. for the benefit of persons afflicted, 
 like himself, with loss of sight; the dividends and interest to be disbursed 
 in sums of not less than 10?., or more than 20/., per year, to each blind 
 person, the selection being left to Trustees. In 1850, there were 271 
 recipients of these pensions. The Treasurer of this Charity, (" the Blind 
 Man's Fund,") is Mr. John Simpson, 29 Savile Row, Old Burlington- 
 street. 
 
 BOTANIC GARDENS. 
 
 The earliest Botanic Garden in the suburbs was that of John Trades- 
 cant (gardener to Charles I.), in the South Lambeth Road, now the site 
 of the Nine Elms Brewery. 
 
 THE BOTANIC GARDEN, OR "PHYSIC GARDEN;" OF THE APOTHE- 
 CARIES' COMPANY, upon the Thames Bank at Chelsea, is maintained 
 by the Company for the use of the medical students of London. The 
 ground was first laid out in 1673. Evelyn saw here, in 1685, a tulip- 
 tree and a tea -shrub, and the first hot-house known in England ; " the 
 subterranean heat conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, all 
 vaulted with brick," so that "the doores and windowes" are open in 
 the hardest frosts, excluding only the snow. On Sir Hans Sloane pur- 
 chasing the manor of Chelsea in 1721, he granted the freehold of the 
 Garden to the Apothecaries' Company, on condition that the Professor 
 who gave lectures to the medical students should deliver annually to 
 the Royal Society fifty new plants, well cured and specifically described, 
 
BOTANIC GARDENS. 51 
 
 and of the growth of the Garden, till the number should amount to 
 2000. This condition was complied with, and a list of the new plants 
 published yearly in the Philosophical Transactions, for about fifty 
 years, when, 2500 plants having been presented, the custom was dis- 
 continued. The Garden is about three acres in extent : it contains a 
 marble statue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Rysbrack, set up in 1733; and two 
 noble cedars, planted in 1683, then about three feet high : in 1766, they 
 measured more than twelve feet in circumference at two feet from the 
 ground, and their branches extended forty feet in diameter. One of these 
 cedars is said to have been brought from Lebanon for Sir Hans Sloane. 
 The Apothecaries' Company give annually a gold and silver medal to 
 the best informed students in botany who have attended this Garden ; 
 and they still observe an old custom of summer herbarising, or simpling 
 excursions to the country, when the members are accompanied by ap- 
 prentices or pupils. The Garden is open daily, from eight to eleven ; 
 admission from May to July, by order from the Apothecaries' Company. 
 
 THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS at Chiswick are thirty- 
 three acres in extent, and were commenced in 1821 : they comprise Or- 
 chard and Kitchen, Hot-house and Tender and Hardy departments, the 
 latter containing the arboretum and flower-garden ; besides a conserva- 
 tory, 184 feet long, 25 feet high, and about 30 feet wide. Here the Society 
 hold exhibitions on a Saturday of May, June, and July, when medals 
 and smaller prizes are awarded for the finest flowers and fruit. Visi- 
 tors are admitted by tickets, obtainable at the Society's Office, 21 Re- 
 gent Street, by personal or written order of a Fellow of Society, at 5s. 
 each, prior to the Exhibition-day ; or 7*. 6rf. each on that day, at the 
 Gardens. In 1849, there were issued 18,517 tickets ; in 1844, 24,480. 
 Formerly, costly public breakfasts were given at these Exhibitions: 
 the weather is often unfavourable ; of nine meetings in 1847, 8, and 9, 
 five were more or less stormy ; the tents erected for the occasion now 
 provide as much as possible for such contretems. The Gardens are also 
 open daily from nine to six, except Sunday, to Fellows ; and by their 
 personal introduction or order, to visitors. The arboretum contains 
 the richest collection of trees and shrubs in Europe ; the orchard is the 
 most perfect ever formed ; and the forcing-houses and hot-houses are 
 complete. The Society distributes plants, seeds, and cuttings, to Mem- 
 bers, foreign correspondents, and the British colonies. 
 
 THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS at Kew are considered the richest 
 in England. They are open to the public from one till six every day, 
 except Sundays : the entrance being from Kew Green. The new Palm- 
 House is 362 ft. 6 in. long ; the ribs and columns are of wrought iron, 
 and the roofs are glazed with sheet glass, slightly tinged green ; the 
 floor is of perforated cast-iron, under which are laid the pipes, &c. for 
 warming by hot water ; and the smoke is conveyed from the furnaces 
 by a flue, 479 feet, to an ornamental shaft or tower, 60 feet in height. 
 The cost of this magnificent Palm-House has been upwards of 30,0001. 
 The Gardens, under the judicious curatorship of Sir W. J. Hooker, 
 have been greatly extended and improved. Among the rarities here is 
 a weeping-willow, raised from that which overshadowed Napoleon's 
 remains at St. Helena;* the Egyptian papyrus; the bread-fruit-tree from 
 the South- Sea Islands ; the cocoa-nut, coffee, and cow trees ; the banana 
 
 * Willows from slips brought from Napoleon's trees at St. Helena were, in the 
 year 1836, flourishing in the garden of Captain Stevens, Beaumont-square, Mile 
 End ; in the grounds of the late Sir Thomas Farquhar at Roehampton ; in the 
 garden of the Roebuck Tavern, Richmond Hill; at No. 1 Canonbury-place, 
 Islington; in Mr. Bentley's garden, Highbury Grange; at No. 10 King-street, 
 St. James's : in the Surrey Zoological Gardens ; at Kew; and at No. 11 Bromp- 
 ton-row. J. H. Fennell, in Loudon's Arboretum Britannicum. 
 
52 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and cycas (sago) ; the gigantic tussack grass, &c. The Gardens are the 
 richest in the world in New Holland plants. Here is also a Museum of 
 specimens of raw and manufactured produce of the vegetable kingdom, 
 and a variety of objects of kindred interest. 
 
 LODBIDGE'S NURSERY, at Hackney, was commenced in 1765 ; and 
 contains a large house for Orchids, varying from five to twenty guineas 
 each specimen ; also air-plants and Chinese pitcher-plants. The Palm 
 Stove is 45 ft. high, and twice as long ; and here may be seen growing 
 the palmetto, bamboo, cycas, cocoa-nut, arrow-root, plantain, &c. ; cin- 
 namon, clove, coffee, nutmeg, tamarind, cocoa, tea, camphor, and caout- 
 chouc. The Camellia House is a splendid spectacle in March and April, 
 when the plants are in bloom. Admission free, with references. 
 
 THE GARDENS OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY OF LONDON, fincor- 
 corporated in 1839,) occupy the centre of the Inner Circle, Regent's 
 Park : they consist of about eighteen acres, (including the site of Jen- 
 kins's Nursery,) and contain a Winter Garden ; besides a Conservatory, 
 entirely of glass and iron, covering 15,000 square feet, which cost about 
 6000f., and will contain 2000 visitors. The Society hold three Exhibitions 
 annually, on Wednesdays in May, June, and July, when prize medals 
 are distributed. Admission by tickets, to be had at the Society's office. 
 Visitors are admitted daily from six to five, by Member's order. The 
 Rock, Winter, and Landscape Garden, with their lake and artificial 
 mound, are very picturesque. 
 
 There are several other botanical displays in the environs. Tulip- 
 shows and Prize Exhibitions of Floricultural Societies take place in the 
 season. Mr. Groom, of Clapham Rise, exhibits a bed of tulips con- 
 taining hundreds of varieties. The smoke of London is, however, a 
 great impediment to the rearing of choice plants. In a report made 
 to the House of Commons, Mr. Chandler, camellia-grower at Wands- 
 worth, stated that on account of the great increase of chimneys from 
 manufactories in that vicinity, plants now soil the hands. China roses, 
 rhododendron hirsutum, rhododendron Virginium, and many other of 
 the prettiest varieties, will not grow here as they formerly did. Mr. 
 Anderson, the curator of the Physic Garden at Chelsea, testifies to the 
 noxious effects of the "bitter smoke" upon the evergreens there. 
 
 BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL. 
 
 The ancient palace of Bridewell, which extended nearly from Fleet- 
 street to the Thames at Blackfriars, was founded upon the remains of 
 a building supposed to be Roman, and inhabited by the Kings of Eng- 
 land previous to the Conquest. Here our Norman Kings held their 
 courts : Henry I. gave stone towards rebuilding the palace ; and, in 
 1847, in excavating the site of Cogers' Hall, in Bride-lane, was dis- 
 covered a vault w ? ith a groined roof, a Norman pellet-moulding, a 
 cherub's head, and other remains of the same date : and in the rubbish 
 was found a bull of Pope Nicholas V., a small jetton or abbey-piece, 
 and some early pottery, glass, and tiles. 
 
 The palace afterwards came into the possession of Cardinal Wolsey, 
 upon whose downfall it again reverted to the crown. It was here that 
 Henry V11L summoned to appear before him the heads of all the reli- 
 gious houses in England, to acknowledge his supremacy. In 1522, 
 Henry, upon the site of the tower or castle of Montfiquet, rebuilt the 
 palace, " a stately and beautiful house, giving it the name Bridewell, of 
 the parish and well there:" it was purposely erected for the reception 
 of Charles V. of Spain, though only his suite were lodged here, Charles 
 
 Eeferring the house of the Blackfriars, on the other side of the river 
 eet, over which a temporary bridge was thrown, so as to pass 
 
BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL. 53 
 
 through the city wall, and communicate with the palace. In 1528, Car- 
 dinal Campeius " was brought to y e Kinges presence, then living at 
 Brydewel, by ye Cardinal of Yorke;" and the King "caused all his 
 nobilitie, judges, and counsaylors, wt- divers other persons, to come to 
 his palace of Brydewel on sonday the viii. day Noueber, at after none, 
 in his great chamber," (HalVs Chronicle, fol. 180,) and there delivered 
 a speech to them, touching his marriage with Katharine of Arragon. 
 Next year, Henry and his Queen resided here while the question of their 
 marriage was pending, (see Shakspeare's Henry VIII., act 3) ; subsequent 
 to which, taking a dislike to the place, the King let it fall to decay. 
 
 After the suppression of the monasteries, " the wide, large, empty 
 house" was begged of Edward VI. by Bishop Ridley and the citizens, 
 as a Workhouse and House of Correction ; it was granted by the 
 king, and confirmed only ten days before his death; and confirmed 
 also by Queen Mary, who gave the Palace, and endowed it with great 
 part of the revenues of the Savoy, the City taking possession in 1555. 
 In 1608, they erected here twelve large granaries, capable of containing 
 6000 quarters of corn, and two storehouses for coals. In 1620, the 
 ancient chapel was enlarged and beautified: here was a portrait of 
 Edward VI., with these lines : 
 
 " This Edward, of fair memory the Sixt, 
 
 In whom with Greatness Goodness was commixt, 
 
 Gave this Bridwell, a Palace in old times, 
 
 For a Chastening House of vagrant crimes." 
 
 Fuller has thus quaintly commemorated the gift : 
 
 " The House of Correction is the fittest hospital for those cripples whose legs 
 are lame through their own laziness. Surely King Edward VI. was as truly 
 charitable in granting Bridewell for the punishment of sturdy rogues, as in 
 giving St. Thomas's Hospitall for the relief of the poore." 
 
 The Hospital was almost entirely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, 
 but was rebuilt in two quadrangles, the principal of which fronted the 
 Fleet River, now a vast barrel-like sewer under the roadway of Bridge- 
 street. The Hall still remains, but the committee-room, prisons, 
 chapel, &c. have been built in the present century ; and the whole now 
 forms only one large quadrangle, with a handsome entrance from Bridge- 
 street, above which is a bust of Edward VI. Here are the offices and 
 residence of the Chamberlain, Keeper of the City cash, and Treasurer 
 of Bridewell. The Hall is a handsome wainscotted apartment, 85 feet 
 4 inches by 29 feet 8 inches, and 24 feet 9 inches high : beneath is a large 
 kitchen, used once a year for dressing the dinner for the Governors, 
 in June, at the expense of the twelve stewards. Above one of the fire- 
 places, at the west end of the Hall, is a large and nearly square picture, 
 by Holbein, of Edward VI. delivering his charter for this Hospital to 
 the Lord Mayor (Sir George Bowes) and citizens ; the head of Holbein 
 is painted in one corner. Opposite is a clever cartoon of "the Good 
 Samaritan," by the youthful artist, Dadd. Here also are full-lengths of 
 Charles II., by Lely ; George III. and Queen Charlotte, by Reynolds ; 
 portraits of several Presidents of the Hospital; and of Mr. Chamberlain 
 Clark, who died in 1832, in his 92d year. 
 
 The prison of Bridewell has one hundred cells. The prisoners sen- 
 tenced to hard labour work on the treadwheel and grind corn, or they 
 pick junk, and clean the wards. The women wash and mend the pri- 
 soners' linen or pick junk, and clean their side of the prison. Offences 
 within the walls are punished by diminution of food and solitary con- 
 finement, and irons in extreme cases; but not with whipping. For- 
 merly, prisoners for offences outside the prison were flogged, both men 
 and women, on their naked backs, before the Governors, until the Pre- 
 sident's hammer fell. Hogarth has pictured the place, with hemp- 
 
54 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDON. 
 
 beating, stocks, &c., in the fourth plate of the Harlot's Progress. The 
 boys of Bridewell originally wore a peculiar dress, and attended fires 
 with an engine belonging to the Hospital; but in 1755 they had become 
 so turbulent that the practice was discontinued, and their costume laid 
 aside. 
 
 In 1829, was built, adjoining Bethlem, in Lambeth, a " House of Oc- 
 cupations," whither young prisoners are sent from Bridewell, to be 
 taught useful trades. In 1849 there were received into Bridewell, 
 under the commitments by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, as criminal 
 or disorderly persons, who were kept to hard labour or received cor- 
 rection, 812 ; refractory apprentices sent by the Chamberlain for con- 
 finement, 25; persons found wandering abroad and begging in the City, 
 287 ; admitted to the House of Occupations, 130. 
 
 "To Bridewell are weekly and,daily committed the young, the depraved, and 
 the criminal, of every age and class. But even here humanity steps in to receive 
 the unfortunate and the reclaimable. A Refuge of Occupations has been formed, 
 whither the unprotected orphan, the child made guilty by bad example, and a 
 necessity which truly exempts the offenders from moral responsibility, thither 
 they are taken and taught to labour industriously for their maintenance in the 
 world, to fear God, and to keep His commandments. Many brands are thus 
 rescued from the fire of destruction, and, from the abysses of vice, made useful 
 and virtuous members of society. Girls are sent to service, and rewarded for the 
 continued maintenance of fair characters ; boys are bound to trades, and have the 
 rewards of good conduct placed within their reach. Assuredly this is a purely 
 philanthropic and Christian work. There are gifts of hundreds, and thousands, 
 and tens of thousands of pounds inscribed upon the boards which surround the 
 hall ; there are fine portraits, too, of patriotic benefactors." Literary Gazette, 
 No. 1277. 
 
 BRIDGES. 
 
 There is no feature of the metropolis calculated to convey so enlarged 
 an idea of the wealth, enterprise, and skill, of its population, as the 
 Seven magnificent Bridges, which have been thrown across the Thames 
 within the last hundred years, and five of these within the present 
 century. Until the year 1750, the long narrow defile of Old London 
 Bridge" formed the sole land communication between the City and the 
 suburbs on the Surrey bank of the Thames ; whereas now, westward of 
 the structure built to replace this ancient Bridge, and almost equidis- 
 tant from each other, are Southwark, Blackfriars, "Waterloo, Hunger- 
 ford, Westminster, and Tauxhall Bridges. 
 
 LONDON BRIDGE, the first Bridge across the Thames at the metropolis, 
 was of wood, erected in the year 994, opposite the site of the present St. 
 Botolph's Wharf: it is mentioned in a statute of Ethelred II., fixing 
 the tolls to be paid by boats bringing fish to " Bylynsgate." 
 
 This first wooden bridge is stated to have been built by the pious 
 Brothers of St. Mary's monastery, on the Bankside ; which house was 
 originally a convent of sisters, founded and endowed with the profits 
 of a ferry at this spot, by Mary, the only daughter of the ferryman, 
 who is traditionally said to be represented by an antique monumental 
 figure in St. Saviour's Church. This bridge'is described with turrets 
 and roofed bulwarks in the narrative of the invasion of the fleet of 
 Sweyn, King of Denmark, in 994 ; and it was nearly destroyed by the 
 ^Norwegian Prince Olaf in 1008. It was rebuilt before the invasion of 
 Canute in 1016, who is said to have sunk a deep ditch on the south 
 side, and dragged his ships to the west side of the bridge. It was easily 
 passed by Earl Godwin in 1052 ; but it was swept away by flood in 
 1091 ; rebuilt in 1097 ; burnt in 1136 ; and a new one erected of elm tim- 
 ber in 1163, by Peter, chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch, Poultry. 
 
 The same pious architect began to build a stone bridge, a little to 
 the west of the wooden one, in 1176 j when Henry II. gave towards 
 
BRIDGE, OLD LONDON. 55 
 
 the expenses the proceeds of a tax on wool, which gave rise to the 
 popular saying, that " London Bridge was built upon woolpacks." 
 Peter of Co'lechurch died in 1205 ; but the Bridge was finished in 1209. 
 
 The new bridge consisted of a stone platform, 926 feet long and 40 
 in width, standing about 60 feet above the level of the water ; and con- 
 sisting of a drawbridge and 19 broad-pointed arches, with massive piers, 
 raised upon strong oak and elm piles, covered by thick planks bolted to- 
 gether. It had a gate-house at each end ; and towards the centre, on the 
 east side, was built a beautiful Gothic chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas 
 of Canterbury ; in the crypt of which, within a pier of the bridge, was 
 deposited, in a stone tomb, the body of Peter of Colechurch. 
 
 Norden describes the bridge, in the reign of Elizabeth, as " adorned 
 with sumptuous buildings and statelie and beautiful houses on either 
 syde," like one continuous street, " except certain voyd places for the 
 retyre of passengers from the danger of cars, carts, and droves of cattle, 
 usually passing that way," through which vacancies only could the 
 river be seen over the parapet-walls or palings. Some of the houses 
 had platform roofs, with pretty little gardens and arbours. Near the 
 drawbridge, and overhanging the river on each side, was the famed 
 Nonsuch House, of the Elizabethan age : it was constructed in Hol- 
 land, entirely of timber, put together with wooden pegs only, and 
 was four stories high, richly carved and gilt. 
 
 The chronicles of this stone bridge through nearly six centuries and 
 a quarter form, perhaps, the most interesting episode in the history of 
 London. The scenes of fire and siege, insurrection and popular ven- 
 geance, of national rejoicing, and of the pageant victories of man and 
 of death, of fame or funeral, it were vain for us to attempt to recite. 
 In 1212, within four years after the bridge being finished, there was a 
 terrific conflagration at each end, when nearly 3000 persons perished ; 
 in 1264, Henry III. was repulsed here by De Montfort, Earl of Lei- 
 cester, and the populace attacked the Queen in her barge as it was 
 preparing to shoot the bridge ; in 1381, the rebel Wat Tyler entered 
 the City by this road ; in 1392, Richard II. was received here with 
 great pomp by the citizens ; in 1415, it was the scene of a grand tri- 
 umph of Henry V., and in 1422 of his funeral procession ; in 1428, the 
 Duke of Norfolk's barge was lost by upsetting at the bridge, and his 
 Grace narrowly escaped ; in 1450 
 
 " Jack Cade hath gotten London Bridge; the citizens 
 Fly and forsake their houses :" 
 
 but the rebel was defeated, and his head placed upon the Gate-house ; 
 in 1477 S Falconbridge attacked the Bridge, and fired several houses ; in 
 1554, it was one of the daring scenes of Sir Thomas "Wyatt's rebellion; 
 in 1632 more than one-third of the houses were consumed in an acci- 
 dental conflagration ; and in 1666 the labyrinth of dwellings was swept 
 away by the Great Fire : the whole street was rebuilt within twenty 
 years ; but, in 1757, the houses were entirely removed, and parapets 
 and balustrades erected on each side ; and in this state the venerable 
 structure remained till its final demolition in the year 1832. 
 
 In 1582, at the west side of the City end of the Bridge, Waterworks 
 were commenced by Morice, with water-wheels turned by the flood 
 and ebb current of the Thames passing through the purposely con- 
 tracted arches, and working pumps for the supply of water to the 
 metropolis ; this being the earliest example of public water service by 
 pumps and mechanical powers which enabled water to be distributed 
 in pipes to dwelling-house. Previously, water had only been supplied 
 to public cisterns, from whence it was conveyed at great expense and 
 inconvenience in buckets and carts. These Waterworks were not re- 
 
56 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 moved until 1822, when the proprietors received for their interest 
 10,000*. from the New River Company. 
 
 The Bridge shops had signs, and were " furnished with all manner 
 of trades." Holbein is said to have lived here; as did also Herbert, 
 the printseller, and editor of Ames's Typographical Antiquities, at 
 the time the houses were taken down. On the first night Herbert 
 spent here a dreadful fire took place on the banks of the Thames, 
 which suggested to him the plan of a floating fire-engine, soon after 
 adopted. Tradesmen's Tokens furnish but few records of the Bridge 
 shopkeepers. " As fine as London Bridge" was formerly a proverb in 
 the City ; and many a serious, sensible tradesman used to believe that 
 heap of enormities to be one of the seven wonders of the world, and, 
 next to Solomon's temple, the finest thing that ever art produced. 
 
 The street was also the abode of many artists : here lived Peter 
 Monamy, the marine painter, who was taught drawing by a sign and 
 house painter on London Bridge. Dominic Serres once kept shop 
 here ; and Hogarth lived here when he engraved for old John Bowles, 
 in Cornhill. Swift and Pope have left accounts of their visits to 
 Crispin Tucker, a waggish bookseller and author-of-all-work, who 
 lived under the southern gate. One Mr. Baldwin, haberdasher, born in 
 the house over the Chapel, at seventy-one could not sleep in the 
 country for want of the noise of the roaring and rushing of the tide 
 beneath, which u he had been always used to hear." 
 
 A most terrific historic garniture of the Bridge was the setting up 
 of heads on its gate-houses: among these ghastly spectacles was the 
 head of Sir William Wallace, 1305 ; Simon Frisel, 1306 ; four traitor 
 knights, 1397; Lord Bardolf, 1408; Bolingbroke, 1440; Jack Cade 
 and his rebels, 1451 ; the Cornish traitors of 1497 ; and of Fisher, Bi- 
 shop of Rochester, 1535, displaced in fourteen days by the head of Sir 
 Thomas More. In 1577, the several heads were removed from the north 
 end of the Drawbridge to the Southwark en trance, thence called Traitors' 
 Gate. In 1578, the head of a recusant priest was added to the sickening 
 sight ; and in 1605, that of Garnet the Jesuit, as well as those of the 
 Romish priests executed under the statutes of Elizabeth and James I. 
 Hentzner counted above thirty heads on the Bridge in 1598. The dis- 
 play was transferred to Temple Bar in the reign of Charles II. 
 
 The narrowness of the Bridge arches so contracted the channel of the 
 river as to cause a rapid ; and to pass through them was termed to " shoot 
 the bridge," a peril taken advantage of by suicides. Thus, in 1689, Sir 
 William Temple's only son, lately made Secretary at War, leaped into 
 the river from a boat as it darted through an arch : he had filled his 
 pockets with stones, and was drowned, leaving in the boat this note : 
 " My folly in undertaking what I could not perform, whereby some 
 misfortunes have befallen the King's service, is the cause of my putting 
 mvself to this sudden end ; I wish him success in all his undertakings, 
 and a better servant." Pennant adds to the anecdote that Sir William 
 Temple's false and profane reflection on the occasion was, that " a wise 
 man might dispose of himself, and make his life as short as he pleased !" 
 In 1737, Eustace Budgell, a soi-disant cousin of Addison, and who wrote 
 in the Spectator and Guardian, when broken down in character and re- 
 duced to poverty, took a boat at Somerset Stairs ; and ordering the water- 
 man to row down the river, Budgell threw himself into the stream as 
 they shot London Bridge. He too had filled his pockets with stones, 
 and rose no more: he left in his secretary a slip of paper, on which 
 was written a broken distich : " What Cato did, and Addison approved, 
 cannot be wrong." This is a wicked sophism ; "there being as little 
 resemblance between the cases of Budgell and Cato as there is reason 
 for considering Addison 's "f'<-" -ftm ; Aafannt* nf cnioirip 
 
BKIDGE, NEW LONDON. 57 
 
 Of a healthier complexion is the anecdote of Edward Osborne, in 
 1536, leaping into the Thames from the window of one of the Bridge- 
 houses, and saving his master's infant daughter, dropped by a nurse-maid 
 into the stream. The father, Sir William Hewet, was Lord Mayor in 
 1559, and gave this daughter in marriage to Osborne, whose great- 
 grandson became the first Duke of Leeds. 
 
 To allow of extensive changes and repairs, a temporary wooden 
 bridge was built on the sterlings, or ancient coffer-dams, to protect the 
 piers ; it was burnt April 10, 1758, but rebuilt in a month. 
 
 The centre pier and two arches adjoining were then taken down and 
 replacedby one large arch, the bridge widened several feet, and re-opened 
 in 1759. These alterations are said to have cost 100,OOOZ. 
 
 The annual loss of life and property that occurred through the dan- 
 gerous state of the navigation under the arches, (the fall being at times 
 five feet,) and the perpetually recurring expense of keeping the bridge 
 in repair, suggested, about the beginning of the present century, its 
 demolition and rebuilding ; but not until 1824 was the new structure 
 commenced, the first pile being driven March 15. It was designed by 
 John Rennie, F.R.S., and is about 100 feet westward of the old bridge. 
 In excavating the foundations, were discovered brass and copper coins 
 of Augustus, Vespasian, and later Roman emperors ; Venetian tokens, 
 Nuremberg counters, and a few Tradesmen's Tokens ; brass and silver 
 rings and buckles, ancient iron keys and silver spoons, the remains of an 
 engraven and gilt dagger, an iron spear-head, a fine bronze lamp (head 
 of Bacchus), and a small silver figure of Harpocrates : the latter pre- 
 served in the British Museum. We may here notice, that upon the 
 old bridge grew abundantly Sisymbrium Irio, or London Rocket, with 
 small yellow flowers and pointed leaves : this plant probably appeared 
 here soon after the Great Fire of 1666, when it sprung up from among 
 the City ruins. 
 
 Mr. Rennie died in 1821 ; but the works were continued by his sons, 
 Mr. (now Sir John) Rennie and Mr. George Rennie; the builders 
 being Mr. W. Jolliffe and Sir Edward Banks. On June 15, 1825, the 
 first stone was laid in a coffer-dam nearly forty-five feet below high- 
 water mark, opposite the southern arch (fourth lock), with great cere- 
 mony, by the Lord Mayor (Garratt), in the presence of the Duke of York ; 
 and in the evening the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, to 
 commemorate the event. Two large gold medals were also struck on 
 the occasion. The first arch was keyed August 4, 1827; the last Nov. 
 19, 1828 ; and the bridge was opened with great state, August 1, 1831, 
 by King William IV. and Queen Adelaide, who went and returned by 
 water, after partaking of a banquet given on the bridge; the Lord 
 Mayor (Key) presiding ; and the King and Queen, and the Royal Fa- 
 mily, partaking of the loving-cup. 
 
 New London Bridge is unrivalled in the world " in the perfection 
 of proportion and the true greatness of simplicity." 
 
 " It consists of five semi-elliptical arches, viz. two of 130 feet, two of 140 feet; 
 and the centre, 152 feet 6 inches span, and 37 feet 6 inches rise, is perhaps the 
 largest elliptical arch ever attempted : the roadway is 52 feet wide. This bridge 
 deserves remark, on account of the difficult situation in which it was built, being 
 immediately above the old bridge, in a depth of from 25 to 30 feet at low water, 
 on a soft alluvial bottom, covered with large loose stones, scoured away by the 
 force of the current from the foundation of the old bridge, the whole of which had 
 to be removed by dredging, before the cofier-dams for the piers and abutments 
 could be commenced, otherwise it would have been extremely difficult, if not 
 impracticable, to have made them water-tight ; the difficulty was further in creased 
 by the old bridge being left standing, to accommodate the traffic, whilst the new 
 bridge was building ; and the restricted water-way of the old bridge occasioned 
 such an increased velocity of the current as materially to retard the operations of 
 the new bridge, and at times the tide threatens to carry away all before it. The 
 
58 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 great magnitude and extreme flatness of the arches demanded unusual care in 
 the selection of the materials, which were of the finest blue and white granite from 
 Scotland and Devonshire; great accuracy in the workmanship was also indispen- 
 sable. The piers and abutments stand upon platforms of timber resting upon 
 piles about 20 feet long. The masonry is from 8 feet to 10 feet below the bed of 
 the river." Sir John Rennie, F.R.S. 
 
 The time occupied in its erection, from the driving of the first pile 
 on March 15, 1824, to its completion on July 31, 1831, was seven years 
 five months and thirteen days, during which time it employed upwards 
 of 800 men. Its building w'as attended with so many local difficulties, 
 that forty persons lost their lives in the progress of the works. 
 
 The total quantity of stone in the bridge is stated at 120,000 tons ; 
 and the ends of the parapets consist of the largest blocks of granite 
 ever brought to this country. 
 
 A single cornice runs along the upper part of the bridge, supported 
 on dentils formed of solid beams of granite, marking externally the line 
 of the roadway ; this is surmounted by a close parapet, four feet high, 
 upon which are lofty and massive bronzed standards, with gas lanterns. 
 
 The amount paid to Messrs. Jolliffe and Banks for this bridge was 
 425,081/. 9*. 2d. ; but the whole sum expended on it, including the ap- 
 proaches, was 1,458,311/1 8s. llfd. The latter are very fine, especially 
 the roadway into the City, where, at the suggestion of Mr. Alderman 
 Gibbs, a granite statue of King William was set up, to commemorate 
 the opening ; and a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Welling- 
 ton, in front of the Royal Exchange, was erected as an acknowledg- 
 ment by the citizens of' his Grace's exertions in facilitating the means 
 of erecting the new bridge. 
 
 The old bridge was not entirely removed until 1832, when the bones 
 of the builder, Peter of Colechurch, were found beneath the masonry of 
 the chapel, as if to complete the eventful history of the antique structure. 
 
 At the sale of the materials of this bridge, Mr. Weiss, the cutler, of 
 the Strand, purchased all the iron, amounting to fifteen tons, with which 
 the piles had been shod ; and such portions as had entered the ground 
 produced steel infinitely superior to any which Mr. Weiss had ever met 
 with. Upon examination, it was inferred that the extremities of the 
 piles having been charred, the straps of iron closely wedged between 
 them and the stratum in which they were imbedded, must have been 
 subjected to a galvanic action, which, in the course of some six or seven 
 hundred years, produced the above effects. 
 
 The stone proved finely seasoned material : a portion of it was pur- 
 chased by Alderman Harmer, and used in building his seat, Ingress Abbey, 
 near Greenhithe, and the balustrades, of good proportions, were pre- 
 served. Many snuff-boxes and other memorials were turned from the 
 pile-wood. 
 
 The traffic across the old bridge, in one day of July 1811, amounted 
 to 89,640 persons on foot, 769 wagons, 2924 carts and drays, 1240 
 coaches, 485 gigs and taxed carts, and 764 horses. [See Chronicles of 
 London Bridge, by an Antiquary (Mr. Richard Thomson), 1827 ; where 
 the researches of a lifetime appear to be condensed into a single volume.] 
 
 WESTMINSTER BRIDGE was opened in 1750, until when the only 
 communication between Lambeth and Westminster was by the ferry- 
 boat near Lambeth Palace-Gate, the property of the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, granted by patent under a rent of 20d. ; and for the loss 
 of which ferry 2205Z. were given to the see. 
 
 Attempts'to obtain another bridge over the Thames, besides that of 
 London, were made in the several reigns of Elizabeth, James I., Charles 
 I. and II., and George I. ; but it was not until the year 1736 (10 Geo. II.) 
 that Parliament authorised the building of a second bridge. 
 
BRIDGE, WESTMINSTER. 59 
 
 The architect of Westminster Bridge was Charles Labelye, a native 
 of Switzerland : the first stone was laid by the Earl of Pembroke, Jan. 
 29, 1738-9 ; and the bridge was opened Nov. 18, 1750. It consists of 
 fifteen semicircular arches, the centre seventy-six feet span ; it is 
 1223 feet long by 44 feet wide. It was originally intended for a 
 wooden bridge, and was partly commenced on this principle. The 
 bottom courses of the piers were laid, or built, in floating-vessels, 
 or caissons, which, when so loaded, were conducted to their proper 
 positions, and there sunk upon the natural alluvial bed of the river ; the 
 bottom of the caissons thus forming, when the sides had been removed, 
 the platforms or foundations of the masonry, unsustained by under- 
 filing, or any other support than that of the gravel or sand on which 
 they rested. The defects and dangers of this mode of building soon 
 appeared : in July 1747, one of the western piers had so settled, that it 
 was thought necessary to take off the balustrades, paving, and ballast; 
 before the bridge was completed it was indispensable to take down and 
 rebuild two arches ; and at subsequent periods the whole of the struc- 
 ture, more or less, settled or gave way, Labelye states the quantity of 
 stone in this bridge to be nearly double that employed in building St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. " The caissons contained upwards of 150 loads of 
 timber, and were of more tonnage than a forty -gun vessel." (Hutton's 
 Tracts). The original cost of the bridge was 218,800?. ; of the ap- 
 proaches, 170,700?. 
 
 In 1823, Telford inspected the foundations, when he found the plat- 
 forms upon which the piers rest considerably sunk. Vast sums have been 
 expended in its repair. "Within the last forty years, it has cost nearly 
 half a million of money ; whereas the property of the bridge only realises 
 7,464?. Us. Sd. In 1838, Mr. W. Cubitt found the caissons in a perfect 
 state, the wood (fir) retaining its resinous smell. After the removal of 
 old London Bridge, as Telford foresaw,more than one of the Westminster 
 piers gave way ; to stay their sinking, in Aug. 1846, the thoroughfare was 
 closed; the balustrades and heavy stone alcoves were removed, the stone- 
 work stripped to the cornice, and the roadway lowered, thus lightening 
 it of 30,000 tons weight ; timber palings were put up at the sides, and the 
 bridge re-opened.* The proportions of the sides are stated to have been so 
 accurate, that if a person spoke against the wall of any of the niches on 
 one side of the way, he might be distinctly heard upon the opposite side ; 
 even a whisper was audible in the stillness of the night. This was the last 
 metropolitan bridge which had a balustraded parapet, that of Blackfriars 
 Bridge having been removed in 1839. At Westminster, "the swelling of 
 each heavy balustrade exactly ranged with the eye of a foot passenger, 
 and from a carriage, the top of the Une of balustrades almost entirely ob- 
 structed the view of the river ; thus hiding one of the finest rivers in Eu- 
 rope for the sake of preserving some imaginary form in architecture." 
 (Repton.} 
 
 The bridge is built of magnesian limestone, containing from 24 to 
 42 per cent of carbonate of magnesia, from which Epsom salts are ob- 
 tained by the application of sulphuric acid. " If," said Dr. Ryan, in a 
 
 * Sir Howard Douglas observes: " The more remote dangers of the defective 
 mode of laying the foundations of the piers were, to a certain extent, kept in sus- 
 pension so long as the river remained undisturbed, in that somewhat artificial 
 state in which it was when Westminster Bridge was constructed. But no sooner 
 was that condition altered, first by opening the great arch of London Bridge, then 
 by removing the London Water-works, and ultimately by taking away Old London 
 Bridge, than all the defects and dangers of this mode of construction became 
 active and -progressive." (Metropolitan Bridges and Improvements, 1845.) The 
 increase of the current, alterations in its set and action, and the consequent 
 scouring and deepening of the river, particularly at the waterways of the bridges, 
 have, from time to time, perilled Westminster Bridge. 
 
60 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 lecture before the Royal Agricultural Society, " Westminster Bridge, 
 built of that rock, were covered with water and sulphuric acid, it would 
 be converted into Epsom salts." Mr. Barry has proposed to substitute 
 for this patched-up stone bridge a five-arched iron structure, in the 
 Gothic style, to assimilate with the new Houses of Parliament. 
 
 Upon Westminster Bridge, September 3, 1803, Wordsworth com- 
 posed this majestic sonnet : 
 
 Earth has not any thing to shew more fair: 
 Dull would he be of soul who could pass by 
 A sight so touching in its majesty : 
 This City now doth like a garment wear 
 The beauty of the morning ; silent, bare, 
 Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples, lie 
 Open unto the fields, and to the sky, 
 All bright and glittering in the smokeless air. 
 Never did sun more beautifully steep 
 In his first splendour valley, rock, or hill; 
 Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep ! 
 The river glideth at its own sweet will : 
 Dear God ! the very houses seem asleep, 
 And all that mighty heart is hang still ! 
 
 BLACK.FRIARS BRIDGE originated with a committee appointed, in 
 1746, to examine Labelye's designs for improving London Bridge; 
 though the architect of Blackfriars Bridge was Robert Mylne, a native 
 of Edinburgh. " The first pile of it was driven in the middle of the 
 Thames June 7, 1760 ; and the foundation-stone was laid by Sir Thomas 
 Chitty, Lord Mayor, Oct. 31. On Nov. 19, 1768, it was made passable 
 as a bridle-way, exactly two years after its reception of foot-passengers; 
 and it was finally and generally opened on Sunday, Nov. 19, 1769. 
 Until June 22, 1785, there was a toll of one halfpenny for every foot-pas- 
 senger, and one penny on Sundays. The toll-house was burnt down 
 in the riots of 1780, when all the account-books were destroyed." 
 (Chronicles of London Bridge.') The total cost of building and com- 
 pleting the Bridge and avenues thereto was 261,579?. Os. fed. ; including 
 12,250?. 17s. Gd. paid to the Watermen's Company for the Sunday ferry. 
 
 The bridge is built of Portland stone, and consists of nine semi- 
 elliptical arches, the largest being 100 feet span, and 41 feet 6 inches 
 rise ; the total length of the bridge is 995 feet, its width 45 feet. Here 
 the elliptical arch was introduced about the first time in this country, 
 in opposition to Gwyn, who, in his design, proposed the semicircular 
 arch. The columns are the most objectionable feature in Mylne's 
 design, architecturally ; for the line of the parapet being a curve, the 
 pillars are necessarily of different heights and diameters. Between 
 1833 and 1840, the bridge was thoroughly repaired by Walker and 
 Burges, at an expense of 74,035?., it is stated at a loss to the contrac- 
 tor. The foot and carriage ways were lowered. The removal of the 
 balustrades, and the substitution of a plain parapet, have altogether 
 spoiled the architectural beauty of the structure. 
 
 On the Middlesex side of the river, east of the bridge, in 1845, was 
 constructed, by Walker and Burges, a Landing-Pier, 185 feet in length ; 
 the floating-barge, or dumby, being 100 feet long, and rising and falling 
 with the tide, in grooves at each end, formed by piles and protected by 
 dolphins. This pier cost 4000?., and was proposed in 1841, but was 
 not decided on until after five persons had been drowned near the 
 bridge, by the breaking down of a temporary pier, July 22, 1844. 
 
 VAUXHALL BRIDGE, communicating with Millbank, had, in conse- 
 quence of disputes, four engineers : Ralph Dodd, Sir Samuel Bentham, 
 John Rennie, F.R.S. ; and lastly, James Walker, who carried the de- 
 sign into effect at the expense of a public Company. The Bridge is 
 
BRIDGE, WATERLOO. 61 
 
 of cast-iron, but was originally intended to be of stone: hence the 
 narrowness of the nine arches, which would not have been necessary 
 for an iron structure. The first stone of the pier begun by Mr. Rennie 
 was laid by Lord Dundas, as proxy for the Prince Regent, May 9, 1811 . 
 The building was then suspended, but transferred to Mr. Walker ; the 
 first stone of the resumed works was laid by the late Duke of Bruns- 
 wick, August 21, 1813 ; and on June 4, 1816, the bridge was opened. 
 
 The width of the river is 900 feet at this bridge, the length of which, 
 clear of the abutments, is 806 feet ; its 9 arches are each 78 feet span, 
 and its 8 piers, each 13 feet wide ; height of centre arch, at high water, 
 27 feet. The Bridge cost upwards of 300,000*. ; its half-year's clear 
 revenue from tolls in 1849-50 was 2986/. 3*. 4d. The low grounds 
 west of the Bridge, and formerly known as the Neathouse Gardens, 
 have been elevated to a level with the Chelsea road, by transporting 
 hither the soil excavated from St. Katherine's Docks ; and upon this 
 artificial foundation several streets have been built. 
 
 WATERLOO BRIDGE has been dignified by Canova as "the noblest 
 bridge in the world," and by Baron Dupin as " a colossal monument 
 worthy of Sesostris and the Caesars. 1 ' It was partly projected by George 
 Dodd, the engineer, and designed for him by John Linnell Bond, archi- 
 tect, who died in 1837 ; but the bridge was eventually built for a pub- 
 lic Company by John Rennie, F.R.S. It crosses the Thames from the 
 Strand, between Somerset Place and the site of the Savoy, to Lambeth, 
 at the centre of the site of Cuper's Gardens, where the first stone was 
 laid by the Chairman and Directors of the Company, October 11, 1811. 
 
 This bridge consists of nine semi-elliptical arches, each 120 feet 
 span and 35 feet high, supported on piers 20 feet wide at the springing 
 of the arches; with "useless and inappropriate Grecian-Doric columns 
 between the piers, surmounted by the anomalous decoration of a balus- 
 trade upon a Doric entablature. (Elmes.) The width of the Thames 
 at this part is 1326 feet at high water ; the entire length of the Bridge is 
 2456 feet, the bridge and abutments being 1380 feet, the approach from 
 the Strand 310 feet, and the land-arch causeway on the Surrey side 766 
 feet. The roadway upon the summit of the arches is carried upon 
 brick arches to the level of the Strand ; and by a gentle declivity upon 
 a series of brick arches over the roadway upon the Surrey bank of the 
 river to the level of the roads near the Obelisk by the Surrey Theatre. 
 This district, until the building of the Bridge, was known as Lambeth 
 Marsh, was low-lying and swampy, with thinly scattered dwellings; 
 but in a few years it became covered with houses. 
 
 The bridge is built of granite, " in a style of solidity and magnifi- 
 cence hitherto unknown. There elliptical arches, with inverted arches 
 between them to counteract the lateral pressure, were carried to a 
 greater extent than in former bridges ; and isolated coffer-dams upon 
 a great scale in a tidal river, with steam-engines for pumping out the 
 water, were, it is believed, for the first time employed in this country; 
 the level line of roadway, which adds so much to the beauty as well as 
 the convenience of the structure, was there adopted." (Sir John Ren- 
 nie, F.R.S.) The bridge was opened by a procession of the Prince Re- 
 gent and the Dukes of York and Wellington, and a grand military caval- 
 cade, on June 18, 1817, the second anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, 
 whence it is named. The bridge itself cost about 400,000?., which, by 
 the expense of the approaches, was increased to above a million of money ; 
 a larger sum than the cost of building St. Paul's, the Monument, and 
 seven of our finest metropolitan churches. It has been a ruinous specu- 
 lation to the Company, the tolls scarcely amounting to 20,OOOZ. per 
 annum. The property has been offered at a low sum to the Govern- 
 ment, to be opened as a free bridge. 
 
62 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Formerly, the average number of suicides annually committed from 
 "Waterloo Bridge was 40; and in September, 1841, there were nine 
 attempts made, within a few days, to commit suicide from Blaekfriars 
 Bridge. The alteration in the law in punishing attempted self-destruc- 
 tion lias greatly checked this wicked propensity. 
 
 SOUTHWARK BRIDGE, designed by John Rennie, F.R.S., was built by 
 a public Company, and cost about 800",OOOZ. It consists of three cast-iron 
 arches : the centre 240 feet span, and the two side arches 210 feet each, 
 about forty-two feet above the highest spring-tides : the ribs forming, 
 as it were, a series of hollow masses, or voussoirs, similar to those of 
 stone, a principle new in the construction of cast-iron bridges, and very 
 successful. The whole of the segmental pieces and the braces are kept 
 in their places by dove-tailed sockets and long cast-iron wedges, so 
 that bolts are unnecessary ; although they were used during the con- 
 struction of the bridge, to keep the pieces in their places until the 
 wedges had been driven. The spandrils are similarly connected, and 
 upon them rests the roadway of solid plates of cast-iron, joined by iron 
 cement. The piers and abutments are of stone, founded upon timber 
 platforms, resting upon piles driven below the bed of the river. The 
 masonry is tied throughout by vertical and horizontal bond-stones, so 
 that the whole acts as one mass in the best position to resist the hori- 
 zontal thrust. The first stone was laid by Admiral Lord Keith, May 
 23, 1815, the Bill for erecting the Bridge having been passed May 6, 
 1811. The iron- work, weight 5700 tons, had been so well put toge- 
 ther by the Walkers, of Rotherham, the founders, and the masonry by 
 the contractors, JolUffe and Banks, that when the work was finished, 
 scarcely any sinking was discernible in the arches. From experiments 
 made to ascertain the extent of the expansion and contraction between 
 the extreme range of winter and summer temperature, it was found 
 that the arch rose in the summer about 1 inch to 1^ inch. The works 
 were commenced in 1813, and the bridge was opened by lamp-light 
 March 24, 1819, as the clock of St. Paul's Cathedral tolled midnight. 
 Towards the middle of the western side of the bridge is a descent from 
 the pavement to a steam-boat pier. 
 
 HUNGERFORD SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, from Hungerford Market to 
 Belvedere Road, Lambeth, was constructed by I. K. Brunei, F.R.S., and 
 is a fine specimen of mechanical skilL It consists of two lofty brick piers 
 or towers, in the Italian style, 58 feet above the road, and built in brick- 
 work and cement on the natural bed of the river, without piles. In 
 the upper part of these towers, four chains pass over rollers, so as to 
 equalise the strain ; they carry the platform or roadway, in two lines, 
 with single suspension rods, 12 feet apart ; the chains being secured in 
 tunnels at the abutments to iron girders, embedded in brickwork and 
 cement, and strengthened with concrete. There are three spans, the 
 central one between the piers being 676 feet, or 110 feet wider than 
 the Menai Bridge ; and second only to the span of the wire suspen- 
 sion-bridge at Fribourg, which is nearly 900 feet. The length between 
 the abutments of the Hungerford Bridge is 1352^ feet. The roadway 
 is in the centre 32 feet above high-water mark, or 7 feet higher than 
 the crown of the centre arch of Waterloo Bridge. The height above 
 the piers is 28| feet. Thus are gained additional height for the river 
 traffic, and a graceful curve, with the appearance of swagging prevented. 
 The bridge was commenced in 1841, and was built without any scaf- 
 folding but a few ropes, consequently, without impediment to the navi- 
 gation of the river. The iron-work, between 10,000 and 11,000 tons, is 
 by Sandys and Co., Cornwall. The entire cost of the bridge was 
 110,OOOJ., raised by a public Company. The toll is a halfpenny each 
 
CANONBURY TOWER. 63 
 
 person each way. The bridge was opened May 1, 1845, when, between 
 noon and midnight, 36,254 persons passed over. Hungerford is the 
 great focus of the Thames steam-navigation, the embarkations and 
 landings here exceeding 2,000,000 per annum. 
 
 HAMMERSMITH SUSPENSION-BRIDGE is one of the most elegant 
 structures of its kind ; and, unlike other suspension-bridges, has part of 
 the roadway supported on, and not hanging from, the main chains. 
 The weight of the masonry abutments on each bank is 2160 tons, to 
 resist the pull of the chains. Cost, 80,OOOZ. ; engineer, W. T. Clarke ; 
 first stone laid by the Duke of Sussex, May 7, 1825 ; finished, 1827. 
 
 BUCKLERSBURY, 
 
 A short street at the point where the Poultry meets Cheapside : here 
 formerly stood the great conduit which brought water from Conduit 
 Mead, near Oxford-road and Paddington. Stow writes : " Buckles 
 bury, so called of a manor and tenements pertaining to one Buckles 
 who dwelt there, and kept his courts." The manor-house, in Stow's 
 time, bore the sign of the Old Barge, from its being said, that when 
 Walbrook lay open, barges were rowed or towed out of the Thames 
 up here : hence the present Barge Yard. Bucklersbury was a noted 
 place for grocers and apothecaries, drugsters and furriers. In Shak- 
 speare's days it was, probably, a herb market ; for he has the com- 
 parison of smelling "like Buckler's-bury in simple-time." (Merry Wives 
 of Windsor, act iii. sc. 3.) 
 
 BUNHILL FIELDS, 
 
 The name of the great burial-ground of the Dissenters, City-road, near 
 Finsbury -square; originally a field of Finsbury Manor Farm; next a 
 general burial-place at the Great Plague of 1665; then walled in by 
 the City, and subsequently leased to Dissenting sects and Tyndal, and 
 thence called " the fanatic burying-place." Here are interred John 
 Bunyan, author of the Pilgrim *s Progress; George Fox, founder of the 
 Quakers ; Daniel Defoe, author of Robinson Crusoe ; the mother of 
 John Wesley ; Dr. Isaac Watts ; Joseph Ritson, the antiquary ; Wil- 
 liam Blake, painter and poet; Thomas Stothard, R.A.; Thomas Hardy, 
 tried for high treason, in 1794, with John Home Tooke, John Thel- 
 wall, &c. 
 
 " People like to be buried in company, and in good company. The Dissenters 
 regarded Bunhill Fields' burial-ground as their Campo Santo, and especially for 
 Bunyan's sake. It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred as 
 near as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited." Southey. 
 
 CANONBURY TOWER, 
 
 At the northern extremity of the parish of Islington, denotes the site 
 of the country-house of the Prior of the Canons of St. Bartholomew : 
 hence, it is supposed, the name of Canons'-bury, bury being syno- 
 nymous with burgh, a dwelling. On a garden-house hard by is sculp - 
 tured the rebus or device of Bolton, the last prior, a bolt, or arrow 
 for the crossbow, through a tun : 
 
 " Old Prior Bolton, with his bolt and tun." 
 
 The Tower, which is of red brick, is believed to have been built by 
 Sir John Spencer, of Crosby-place, who purchased the estate in 1570. 
 Elizabeth, his only daughter and heiress, married William, second 
 Lord Compton, who is traditionally said to have contrived her elope- 
 ment from her father's house at Canonbury in a baker's basket. In 
 1618, he was created Earl of Northampton, and from him the present 
 
64: CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 owner of Canonbury, -who is the ninth Earl and first Marquess of 
 Northampton, is lineally descended. 
 
 The Tower is 17 feet square, and nearly 60 feet in height, and consists 
 of seven stories and 23 rooms. For many years it was let in lodgings. 
 Amongst its tenants was Ephraim Chambers, whose Cyclopaedia was 
 not only the basis of Rees's w r ork, but originated all the modern Cyclo- 
 
 Saedias in the English and the other European languages. Chambers 
 ied at Canonbury, May 18, 1740, and was buried in Westminster 
 Abbey, under a short Latin inscription, his own composition. New- 
 bery, the bookseller, lodged here ; and in his apartments Goldsmith 
 often lay concealed from his creditors, and under a pressing necessity 
 he there wrote his Vicar of Wahefield : " he was the most diligent 
 slave that ever toiled in the mill of Grub-street." 
 
 " A silly notion at one time prevailed that there was formerly a sub- 
 terranean communication between Canonbury House and the Priory of 
 St. Bartholomew. Similar vulgar and absurd stories are current at 
 most of the large monasteries ; as Malmesbury, Netley, Glastonbury, 
 &c." (Godwin's Churches of London.) 
 
 The ancient priory mansion covered the entire site now occupied 
 by Canonbury-place, and had attached to it a park of about four acres, 
 with large gardens, a fish-pond, &c. ; most of which were included in 
 the premises of Canonbury Tea-gardens and Tavern, in the middle 
 of the last century but a small ale-house. It was enlarged and im- 
 proved by a Mr. Lane, who had been a private soldier ; but its cele- 
 brity was chiefly owing to the widow Sutton, who resided here from 
 1785 to 1808, and laid out the bowling-green and grounds. 
 
 CARLTON HOUSE, 
 
 In Pall Mall, was originally built for Lord Carlton, in 1709 ; bequeathed 
 by him to his nephew, Lord Burlington, the architect ; and purchased 
 in 1732, by Frederic Prince of Wales, father of George III. ; here the 
 Princess of Wales died in 1772. The first house was of red brick ; 
 the grounds extended westward to Marlborough House, and were laid 
 out for Lord Burlington, by Kent, with bowers and grottoes, a cas- 
 cade, statues and busts, a marble saloon and bagnio. 
 
 In 1783, Carlton House was assigned to George Prince of Wales, 
 who employed Holland the architect to enlarge the mansion ; and he 
 added a Corinthian portico and a screen of Ionic columns* fronting 
 Pall -Mall : in one of the lodges dwelt " Big Sam," the royal porter, nearly 
 eight feet high. Here was a remarkably fine collection of arms and 
 costumes, including two swords of Charles I. ; swords of Columbus and 
 Marlborough ; and a couteau-de-chasse used by Charles XII. of Sweden; 
 which relics are now in the North Corridor at Windsor Castle. Carlton 
 
 * Bonomi wrote the following epigram upon this screen : 
 " Care colonne, che fatti qua? 
 
 Non sapiamo, in verita :" 
 Thus anglicised by Prince Hoare : 
 
 " Dear little columns, all in a row, 
 
 What do you do there ? 
 Indeed we don't know." 
 
 Sheridan's allusion to these columns was not much more complimentary. About 
 the time that the Duke of York took possession of Melbourne House, now Lady 
 Dover's, near the Horse-Guards, of which the most remarkable feature is the 
 cupola in front, some discussions were raised in Parliament about the debts of 
 the Duke and his royal brother at Carlton House. The virtuous indignation of 
 the Opposition was tremendous ; and some of their remarks having been reported 
 to Sheridan when he entered the House of Commons, " I wonder," said he, 
 " what amount of punishment would satisfy some people ! Has not the one got 
 into the Roundhouse, and the other into the Pillory ?" 
 
CARVINGS IN WOOD. 65 
 
 House was sumptuously furnished for the Prince's ill-starred marriage 
 in 1795 : here, Jan. 7, 1796, was born the Princess, baptised Feb. 11, 
 Charlotte- Augusta; and on May 2, 1816, married here to Leopold, 
 now King of the Belgians. The ceremonial of conferring the Re- 
 gency was enacted at Carlton House with great pomp, Feb. 5, 1811; 
 and on June 19 following, the Prince Regent gave here a superb 
 supper to 2000 guests; a stream with gold and silver fish flowing 
 through a marble canal down the centre table. 
 
 In 1827, Carlton House was removed; the columns of the por- 
 tico, (adapted from the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome,) being sub- 
 sequently used in the portico of the National Gallery ; and the orna- 
 mental interior details (as marble mantel- pieces, friezes, columns, &c.) 
 transferred to Buckingham Palace. Thus has disappeared Carlton 
 House : sed stat nominis umbra. Upon the site of the gardens have 
 been built the STork Column and Carlton-House-terrace; the balus- 
 trades of the latter originally extended between the two ranges of 
 houses, but were removed to form the present entrance into St. James's 
 Park, by command of William IV., very soon after his accession. Upon 
 the site of the courtyard and part of Carlton House are the United 
 Service and Athena3um Clubhouses, and the intervening area facing 
 Waterloo-place. 
 
 Eastward is the riding-house of Carlton Palace, or Carlton Ride, 
 long the depository of the Common Pleas, Exchequer, Land Revenue, 
 and other records. 
 
 CARVINGS IN WOOD. 
 
 The art of Sculpture in Wood has ever been royally and nobly en- 
 couraged in England ; and the metropolis contains many fine specimens 
 of ancient and modern skill in this tasteful branch of decoration. 
 
 The figures carved upon the chestnut roof of Westminster Hall 
 shew the degree of excellence the art had attained in this country so 
 early as the reign of Richard II. The sculptured arms on the corbels 
 are those of France and England, quarterly, and of St. Edward the 
 Confessor, as borne by Richard II. ; whose favourite badge, viz. the 
 white hart, lodged, ducally gorged and chained, and his crest of a 
 lion guardant crowned, standing on a chapeau and helmet, are also 
 carved, in alternate succession, on the cornice. 
 
 There is every reason to suppose the timber architecture of Old 
 London to have been elaborate and beautiful. Till about the year 
 1625, nearly all the houses were built of wood : the interiors of the 
 better sort were often richly carved, particularly in the panels of rooms, 
 chimney-pieces, ceilings, and staircases ; and the exteriors displayed a 
 similar love of ornament in the doors and barge-boards. 
 
 The Great Fire of 1666 spared few specimens of early wood-carving; 
 but several exist in quarters not reached by the destroyer. Of existing 
 gothic work may be mentioned the decorations of Crosby Hall, much 
 injured, however, by " restoration." The excellently carved stalls in the 
 Church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and those of the Chapel of Henry 
 VII. at Westminster, are unusually magnificent, and were mostly exe- 
 cuted by foreign workmen summoned to England by Henry VII. 
 
 In the reign of Elizabeth, not only the houses of the nobility were 
 decorated, but furniture made of British woods was richly carved : the 
 late Mr. Cottingham, F.S.A., assembled many unique specimens of this 
 period. In the Elizabethan style may also be mentioned : 
 
 Two splendid brackets (griffins), dated 1592, supporting the yard entrance at 
 21 Princes-square, Wilson-street, Finsbury. 
 Two house-fronts in Aldersgate-street. 
 Some boldly carved brackets (1595) at the Old Boar's Head, Grays' l"nn lane. 
 
 F 
 
66 CURldSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Panel and trusses over the mantel of the Cock Tavern, Fleet-street (temp. 
 James !.) The room was formerly paneled opposite the fire-place. 
 
 Brackets (temp. James I.) at the back of the house, 61 Gray's-Inn-lane. 
 
 There was *ome fine Elizabethan paneling in the Star Chamber at Westminster, 
 taken riown 1835; but restored for the Hon. E. Cust, a' Lea owe Castle. 
 
 Brackets, very fine, at the corner of Cloth Fall and Cloth Fair, Smithfield. 
 
 Ho'ise-front, 94 Fenchurch-street. 
 
 Several house-fronts, rather later, in Whitechapel Market. 
 
 The Sir Paul Pmdar's Head, Bishopsgate-street-without, has a finely carved 
 front, and a carved ceiling in one of the unmodernised rooms. 
 
 The projecting house-front (now gilt), 17 Fleet-street, opposite Chancery-lane. 
 
 Mask brackets temp. James I.), at the front and ba~k of the Old Cheshire 
 Cheese, 48 Hart-street, City ; and a spirited, grotesque head (same date) within 
 the court of Red-Lion-place, Cock-lane. 
 
 A fine staircase, attributed to Inigo Jones, (probably later,) at 96 St. Martin's- 
 lane, Charing Cro.- s. 
 
 At the Whit > Horse Inn, Church-street, Chelsea, (burnt Dec. 14, 1840,) were 
 four grotesque Elizabethan brackets, carved chimney-pieces ; and a carved frame 
 for the sign, dated 1509. 
 
 The most celebrated carver after the Great Fire was Grinling Gib- 
 bons, who, Walpole tells us, so delicately carved a pot of flowers, that 
 they shook in the room with the motion of coaches passing in the street. 
 Most of the interior carvings of St. Paul's Cathedral were executed by 
 Gibbons, or by Dutch workmen under his superintendence; the cherubs 
 in the choir are in the highest style of the art. 
 
 One of the best carvers employed by Wren was Philip Wood, who came up a 
 poor lad from Suffolk, and carved as a specimen f his skill a sow and pigs, for 
 which he received ten guineas. According to the Commissioners' Rep rt, be- 
 tween the years 1701 and 1707, Wood was paid large sums of money for carved 
 work in Sti Paul's Ca'hedral. 
 
 It is not generally known that the pulpit at St. Paul's was designed by Mylne, 
 and executed about sixty years since by one o the finest flow-r-carvers of the 
 time, named Mowatt, then employed l>y a relative of Edward Wyat f . the present 
 carver and jrilder, in Oxford-street. The pulpit is carved in Spanish mahogany 
 and satin-wood; the foliage is marvellously played with in 'he volute*. 
 
 Many of the Halls of the City Companies are decorated with Gib- 
 bons's work ; as well as the interiors of most of the Churches built by 
 Sir Christopher Wren. St. James's, Piccadilly has some fine pulpit, 
 altar, and pew carvings; and the Churchwardens' pexvs at Allhallows 
 Barking, (with the symbols of the four Evangelists,) are amongst the 
 most delicate decorations of their time in the metropolis. The Hall of 
 Heralds' College is also well enriched in the Gibbons style ; and a 
 beautiful specimen of his skill in marine subjects is preserved at the 
 New River House, Spa-Fields. 
 
 London abounds in richly-carved doorways and over-doors of the 
 17th and 18th centuries : there are good examples in Great Ormond- 
 street ; in Shire-lane, Temple Bar, where Gibbons once lived ; in Ca- 
 vendish-square, especially at No. 33 ; the entrance to Langbourn 
 Chambers, Fenchurch-street ; and some old mansions in Mark-lane. 
 
 A pair of exquisitely carved statuettes, (Raving and Melancholy 
 Madness,) is shewn among the curiosities of Bethlem Hospital. 
 
 State Coaches present fine carving. Such are the Lord Mayor's 
 Coach, (stated to have been designed by Angelica Kauffman,) kept at 
 the Green Yard, Whitecross-street ; the Queen's Coach, at the Royal 
 Mews, Pimlico; and the Speaker's Coach, Prince's-street, Westminster. 
 
 In private collections, some magnificent specimens of early carving 
 are preserved : such are the Italian bedstead-pillars of the 16th cen- 
 tury, and the bas-relief after Rubens, in the possession of the Earl of 
 Cadogan ; and the collection, dating from the 15th to the 18th cen- 
 turies, the property of G. Field, Esq., of Lister House, Clapham. 
 
 Carving received considerable check from the introduction of stucco 
 
CATO-STREET CONSPIRACY. 67 
 
 in the reign of George II. ; but the art has received a fresh impetus in 
 the present century. Some fine church carving was executed in 1839-42 
 for the Temple Church ; and in 1847-8 for the choir of "Westminster 
 Abbey, then refitted with canopied stalls, organ-case, screen, &c., by 
 Messrs. Ruddle, of Peterborough. The church of St. Mary-at-Hill, 
 Billingsgate, was redecorated in 1849-50, by W. Gibbs Rogers: the 
 pulpit alone cost upwards of 500?. ; the stairs have an elaborate string- 
 course, and all the banisters are on the rake ; the bosses and flowers of 
 the sounding-board exceed afoot in projection : the organ-gallery front 
 has flowers festooned with musical instruments, and the pretty conceit 
 of a crab crawling over a violin. Mr. Rogers has also carved, from a 
 design suggested by the Queen, a box-wood cradle in rich Italian style, 
 most delicately finished, and first used for the infant Prince Arthur, 
 born 1850 : it is cleverly engraved and described in the Art- Journal for 
 August, J850. 
 
 The interior enrichments of the New Palace at Westminster present 
 some fine specimens of contemporary carving. Much of the work has, 
 however, been executed by machinery, and finished by hand. 
 
 The great depository for old carvings is "Wardour-street, Oxford- 
 street, where the dealers mostly keep shop. 
 
 CATO-STREET CONSPIRACY. 
 
 In 1820, at Cato-street, John-street, Edgeware-road, Arthur This- 
 tlewood and his fellow-conspirators met to assassinate the Ministers as- 
 sembled at a cabinet dinner, on February 23d, at Lord Harrowby's, 39 
 Grosvenor-square, where Thistlewood proposed, as "a rare haul, to 
 murder them all together." Some of the conspirators were to watch 
 Lord Harrowby's house ; one was to call and deliver a despatch-box at 
 the door ; the others were then to rush in and murder the Ministers 
 as they sat at dinner ; and, as special trophies, to bring away with them 
 the heads of Lords Sidmouth and Castlereagh, in two bags provided for 
 the purpose ! They were then to fire the cavalry-barracks ; and the 
 Bank and Tower were to be taken by the people, who, it was hoped, 
 would rise upon the spread of the news. This diabolical plot was, 
 however, revealed to the Ministers by one Edwards, who had joined the 
 conspirators for that purpose. Still, no notice was apparently taken. 
 The preparations for dinner went on at Lord Harrowby's till eight 
 o'clock in the evening ; but the guests did not arrive. The Archbishop of 
 York, who lived next door, happened to give a dinner-party at the same 
 hour, and the arrival of the carriages deceived those of the conspira- 
 tors who were on the watch in the street, till it was too late to give 
 warning to their comrades who had assembled at Cato-street, in a loft 
 over a stable, accessible only by a ladder. Here, while the traitors 
 were arming themselves by the light of one or two candles, a party of 
 Bow-street officers entered the stable ; when Smithers, the first of them 
 who mounted the ladder, and attempted to seize Thistlewood, was 
 run by him through the body, and instantly fell ; whilst, the lights 
 being extinguished, a few shots were exchanged in the darkness and 
 confusion, and Thistlewood and several of his companions escaped 
 through a window at the back of the premises ; nine were taken that 
 evening with their arms and ammunition, and the intelligence conveyed 
 to the Ministers, who, having dined at home, met at Lord Liverpool's to 
 await the result of what the Bow-street officers had done. A reward 
 of 1000Z. was immediately offered for the apprehension of Thistlewood; 
 but he was captured before eight o'clock next morningr, while in bed 
 at a friend's house, No. 8 White-street, Little Moorfields. The con- 
 spirators were sent to the Tower, and were the last persons imprisoned 
 in that fortress. On April 20th, Thistlewood was condemned to death, 
 
68 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 after three days' trial; and on May 1st, he and his four principal 
 accomplices, Ings, Brunt, Tidd, and Davidson, who had been severally 
 tried and convicted, were hanged at the Old Bailey, and their heads 
 cutoff. Southey relates this touching anecdote of Thistlewood's last 
 hours : 
 
 " When the desperate and atrocious traitor Thistlewood was on the scaffold, 
 his demeanour was that of a man who was resolved boldly to meet the fate he had 
 deserved ; in the few words which were exchanged between him and his fellow- 
 criminals, he observed, that the grand question whether or not the soul was im- 
 mortal would soon be solved for them. No expression of hope escaped him ; no 
 breathing of repentance, no spark of grace, appeared. Yet (it is a fact which, 
 whether it be more consolatory or awful, ought to be known), on the night after 
 the sentence, and preceding his execution, while he supposed that the person who 
 was appointed to watch him in his cell was asleep, this miserable man was seen 
 by that person repeatedly to rise upon his knees, and heard repeatedly calling 
 upon Christ his Saviour to have mercy upon him, and to forgive him his sins." 
 The Doctor, chap. Ixxi. 
 
 The selection of Cato -street for the conspirators' meeting was 
 accidental : and the street itself is associated hut indirectly in name 
 with the Roman patriot and philosopher. To efface recollection of 
 the conspiracy of the low and desperate politicians of 1820, Cato- 
 street has been changed to Homer-street. 
 
 CEMETERIES, 
 
 Or public burial-grounds, planted and laid out as gardens around the 
 ' metropolis, are a novelty of our times; although they were suggested 
 just after the Great Fire of 1666, when Evelyn regretted that advantage 
 had not been taken of that calamity to rid the City of its burial-places, 
 and establish a necropolis without the walls. He deplores that " the 
 churchyards had not been banished to the north walls of the City, 
 where a grated inclosure, of competent breadth, for a mile in length, 
 might have served for an universal cemetery to all the parishes, distin- 
 guished by the like separations, and with ample walks of trees ; the 
 walks adorned with monuments, inscriptions, and titles, apt for con- 
 templation and memory of the defunct, and that wise and excellent law 
 of the Twelve Tables restored and renewed." 
 
 There were, in 1850, eight Cemeteries in the suburbs, each the pro- 
 perty of a public Company. 
 
 KEXSAL GREEN CEMETERY was the first established. It lies upon 
 high ground, left of the Harrow Road and the hamlet of Kensal Green, 
 about two miles from Paddington Green. It contains fifty-three acres, 
 divided into two grounds : the westernmost consecrated "Nov. 2, 1832 ; 
 the smaller ground being for the interment of persons whose friends 
 desire a funeral service differing from that of the Church of England. 
 The same distinction is observed in each of the Cemeteries ; and each is 
 planted and laid out in walks, parterres, and borders of flowers, and 
 other styles of landscape garden. A register is kept of interments for 
 both portions of the grounds, and a duplicate is lodged with the regis- 
 trars of parishes in the diocese. Each Company has its scale of charges 
 for interment in catacomb, vault, or grave. 
 
 Within three years from the opening of the Kensal-Green Cemetery, 
 there took place in it about 1000 interments. Each ground has its chapel 
 and colonnades ; in the latter are placed mural tablets, and beneath are 
 the vaults or catacombs. The memorials in this Cemetery are very nu- 
 merous : altar-tombs, "monumental urns," sarcophagi, and the broken 
 column ; capacious tomb-houses, encompassed with flower-beds, or over- 
 hung with funereal trees ; pi^ars, bearing urns ; weeping and praying 
 .figures, medallion portraits, and groups of insignia, are most frequent ; 
 though emblems are borrowed alike from the Pagan temple and the 
 
CEMETERIES. 69 
 
 Christian church. The cross, in its picturesque varieties, and the plain 
 but massive slab, are side by side. Among the most conspicuous is, at 
 the entrance, a monument to Madame Soyer, by a Belgian sculptor ; the 
 pedestal and a colossal figure of Faith are upwards of twenty feet in 
 height. The tombs of St. John Long, the "counter -irritation" sur- 
 geon; of Morison, the "hygeist;" and of Ducrow, the equestrian, are 
 also prominent : the latter left a sum of money for flowers, shrubs, and 
 repairs. Here is interred the Duke of Sussex, according to especial 
 directions left by that prince : his grave, near the chapel, is covered by 
 an immense granite tomb ; and near it rest the remains of the Princess 
 Sophia, his sister, beneath a handsome sarcophagus tomb of Sicilian 
 marble, erected in 1850, by subscription of Queen Victoria, the King of 
 Hanover, Adolphus Duke of Cambridge, and the Duchess of Gloucester. 
 Several persons of rank and station are buried here ; and the pre- 
 dominance of authors, artists, and youthful dead, is observable. 
 
 THE SOUTH METROPOLITAN and NORWOOD CEMETERY contains 
 about fifty acres, and was consecrated Dec. 6, 1837 : the chapels, by 
 Tite, in the pointed style, are very beautiful; and the grounds are hilly, 
 and picturesquely planted. 
 
 HIGHGATE AND KENTISH TOWN CEMETERY, twenty-t wo acres, con- 
 secrated May 20, 1839, lies immediately beneath Highgate Church. It has 
 a Tudor gate-house and chapel, and catacombs of Egyptian architecture ; 
 the ground is laid out in terraces, tastefully planted ; and the distant view 
 of London from among the tombs is suggestive to a meditative mind. 
 
 ABNEY PARK CEMETERY and Arboretum, lying eastward, at Stoke- 
 Newington, thirty acres, was opened by the Lord Mayor, May 20, 
 1840. It was formed from the Park of Sir Thomas Abney, the friend of 
 Dr. Isaac Watts, to mark whose thirty-six years' residence here a sta- 
 tue of the Doctor, by Baily, was erected in 1845. The Abney mansion 
 was taken down in 1844; many of the fine old trees remain. 
 
 WESTMINSTER AND WEST OF LONDON CEMETERY, Earl's Court, 
 Fulham Road, thirty -nine acres, was consecrated June 15, 1840; it has 
 a domed chapel, with semi-circular colonnades of imposing design. In 
 the grounds is a large altar-tomb, with athlete figures, modelled by 
 Baily, and erected by subscription to Jackson, the pugilist. 
 
 NUNHEAD CEMETERY, Peckham, consists of fifty acres, and was 
 consecrated July 29, 1840. 
 
 THE CITY OF LONDON AND TOWER HAMLETS CEMETERY, about 
 thirty acres, lies at the extremity of Mile-End Road, north of Bow 
 Common ; and VICTORIA PARK CEMETERY, about eleven acres, at 
 Bethnal Green, north of the Eastern Counties Railway. 
 
 The public are allowed to walk in each of the Cemeteries at stated 
 hours They comprised, in 1850, about 282 acres of ground, of which 
 about seventeen acres had been used for graves and vaults, exclusive of 
 the space occupied by roads and paths, plantations and buildings. 
 
 A few suburban churchyards are planted similarly to the Cemeteries ; 
 as that of St. John's Wood Chapel, where are buried Joanna Southcott 
 and Richard Brothers, the prophetic; and John Jackson, R.A., the 
 portrait-painter. The churchyard of St. Giles's-in-the- Fields, Lower 
 Pancras Road, consecrated so long ago as 1804, has many flowery graves : 
 here is the handsome tomb of Sir John Soane, overhung with cypresses. 
 The burying-ground of St. Martin's-in-the- Fields, Pratt-street, Camdenr 
 Town, is also planted : here lies Charles Dibdin, the song-writer. 
 
 The burial-grounds for Jews are mostly laid out and planted in the 
 " cemetery" manner. Formerly their burial-place was outside the City 
 Wall, at Leyrestowe, " without Cripelgate." 
 
70 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Cemeteries have, from the costliness of interment in them, been, 
 mostly used by the wealthier classes, and but for the reception of few 
 of the 52,000 persons who die annually in the metropolis. Hence they 
 have little abated the evil of intramural interments : and, as stated by 
 Dr. Sutherland, in his Report of the Board of Health, in 1850, " the 
 grave-yards of London are still the plague-spots of its population. The 
 putrid drainage of them pollutes its wells, seethes beneath its dwellings, 
 and poisons its atmosphere ; and some parts of the metropolis are still 
 honeycombed with deposits of the putrescent remains of millions of its 
 citizens." By the Metropolitan Interment Act, passed in 1850, it is 
 hoped these evils to Public Health will be remedied. 
 
 CHANCERY LANE, 
 
 Formerly New-lane and Chancellor's-lane, is the greatest " legal tho- 
 roughfare" in London, and extends from Fleet -street, opposite Inner 
 Temple Gate, to Holborn, nearly opposite Gray's Inn. In Edward I.'s 
 time it was so foul and miry as to be barred up, to prevent accidents. 
 Entering by Fleet-street, on the left are some half-timbered houses, 
 with projecting windows, overhanging stories, and gabled fronts. 
 Izaak Walton kept a draper's shop at the second house on the left, 
 taken down when that end of the lane was widened ; he subsequently 
 removed, according to Sir Harris Nico'as's Life of Walton, five doors 
 higher up in the Lane. Opposite is Serjeants' Inn, rebuilt by Sir Ro- 
 bert Smirke in 1838 ; but the old Hall remains. Higher up, on the 
 west, is the Law Institution, with a noble Grecian-Ionic portico, built 
 of stone by Vulliamy, in 1842 ; it contains a library and club accommo- 
 dations for the legal profession. 
 
 The Bishop of Chichester formerly had a palace in Chancery-lane, 
 where is still Chichester Rents and Symonds Inn ; the latter, to this 
 day, owned by the see. The lar?e old house, with low-built shops 
 before it, and between Bream's Buildings and Cursitor-street, is said to 
 have been the Bishop's palace. Nearly opposite is the red brick gate- 
 house of Lincoln's Inn ; a Tudor arch between two massive towers, 
 built by Sir Thomas Lovell, 1518. 
 
 The survey of Aggas, in 1560. shews Chancery-lane with only a few 
 houses at the ends, the intervening road flanked with gardens ; anil 
 there is no reason to doubt Aubrey's statement that young Ben Jonson 
 worked with his father-in-law, a" bricklayer, in building the garden- 
 wall of Lincoln's Inn, when, as Fuller says, "having a trowel in his 
 hand, he had a book in his pocket." 
 
 The stone buildings at the northern end of the Lane are the Ac- 
 countant-General's and Inrolment Offices. Opposite, upon the site of 
 Southampton Buildings, was Southampton House, inherited by the ill- 
 fated Lord William Russell, by his marriage with the daughter of 
 Thomas, last Earl of Southampton. 
 
 " It was in passing this house, the scene of his domestic happiness, on his way 
 to the sciffold in Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, that the fortitude of the manyr for a 
 moment forsook him (Lord W. Pussell); but ovt-r-mastering his emotion, he said, 
 ' The bitteiness of deith is now pass d.' It is from this house that some of Lady 
 Rachel Russell's celebrated letters are dated. A former entrance of the < hapel of 
 Southampton Houss appears to correspond with the moulding of the flat tim- 
 bered roof, which is of the time of Henry VII. This part of the edifice retains its 
 origin il proportions, except that it* height is divided by a modern floor. Ita 
 length is about 40 fee' by about 20. It is now used by Mr Griffiths, a whip-maker, 
 322 Holborn, as his warehouse. Other portions of Southampton House have been 
 incorp >rated wi'h the sur otmding dwellings, one of which contains a beautiful 
 Elizabethan staircase. Old mouldings and paneling appear likewise in Mill's 
 Tavern, 47 Southampton Buildings, which house seems to have been constructed 
 upon a portion of the ancient mansion." /. Wykeham Archer. 
 
CHARTER -HO USE. 71 
 
 CHARING CROSS, 
 
 The large area at the meeting of the Strand, Whitehall, and Cockspur- 
 street, with Trafalgar Square on the north, received part of its name 
 from the stone cross erected there, 1291-1294, to Eleanor, queen of 
 Edward I. ; and was the last spot at which the Queen's body was 
 rested, in the way to Westminster Abbey for burial. The name Charing 
 has not been satisfactorily traced : the chere reine origin is traditional. 
 
 Mr. Hudson Turner, in Manners and Household Expenses of Eng- 
 land in the 13th and 15th Centuries, gives some curious particulars of 
 the nine Eleanor Crosses, of which two were those at Charing and Cheap. 
 Charing Cross was built, of Caen stone, and Dorset marble steps, by 
 Richard and Roger de Crundale ; it was highly decorated, and had 
 paintings and metal figures, gilt ; besides Eleanor and others, sculp- 
 tured in Caen stone by Alexander of Abingdon, and modelled by Torel, 
 a goldsmith, probably an Italian. 
 
 The Cross (which appears in the Sutherland View of 1543, with 
 only a few houses near it, and St. Martin's Church, literally "in the 
 fields,") was voted down by the Long Parliament, and removed in 
 1647. Part of the stone was used to pave Whitehall, and some was 
 made into knife-handles. The site of the Cross was next used as a place 
 of execution, and here several of the Regicides suffered. In 1674, the 
 equestrian statue of Charles I. was placed here. (See STATUES.) The 
 spot was a favourite " pitch" for Punchinello nearly two centuries 
 ago ; and Dr. Johnson, in one of his London ruminations, thought " the 
 full tidj of human existence" to be at Charing Cross. Proclamations 
 for ages have been read here. On June 21> 1837, Queen Victoria was 
 proclaimed here in fitting state ; the High Constable and High Bailiff 
 of Westminster, Knight-marshalmen, drums and trumpets, sergeants- 
 at-armsj pursuivants, heralds, and other authorities, in official costume, 
 standing within a cordon of Life Guards, round the statue, and the 
 Somerset Herald reading aloud the proclamation. 
 
 CHARTER-HOUSE, 
 
 Upon the north side of Charter-house-square, Aldersgate-street, com- 
 prehends a collegiate asylum for the aged, a school-house for the young, 
 and a chapel ; the whole occupying 13 acres 1 rod of land, anciently part 
 of the estate of St. Bartholomew's 'Spital, appropriated by Sir Walter 
 de Manny, of Hainault, and Knight of the Garter in the feign of Ed- 
 ward II I., as a burial-place for the poor destroyed by the Plague of 1349. 
 
 In 1361, Michael de Northburgh, Bishop of Lo'ndon, purchased of 
 Sir Walter the whole cemetery ; and at his death, in the same year, the 
 good Bishop bequeathed it to'Sir Walter, with all his property, for the 
 founding, building, and furnishing a monastery of Carthusians, an 
 order of monks instituted in 1080, by Bruno, at Chartreux, near Gre- 
 noble, in France. This Sir Walter de Manny completed in 1371 : he died 
 in the following year, and was buried in the monastery, his funeral 
 being attended by the King and his children, many barons and prelates. 
 
 Late in the 15th century, Sir Thomas More " gave himself to devo- 
 tion and prayer in the Charter-house of London, religiously living there 
 without vow about four years." The house had flourished nearly three 
 centuries, when it fell in the universal Dissolution ; and several of the 
 monks, with John Howghton, the last prior, were, for denying the 
 King's Supremacy, executed at Tyburn, May 4, 1535 ; their heads being 
 set upon London Bridge, and the mangled body of Howghton placed 
 over the gate of the Charter-house itself. 
 
 The Monastery was surrendered in 1537, and within 74 years had 
 several owners, among whom were John Dudley, Duke of Northum- 
 
72 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 berland, executed in 1553 ; and Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, 
 executed in 1572, from whom the place was called Howard House. 
 Queen Elizabeth, Nov. 19, 1558, two days after her accession, stayed 
 at the Charter-house "many days;" and in July, 15C1, she sojourned 
 there four days, even after Sir Edward North, then owner of the Char- 
 ter-house, had been dismissed from her Privy Council. On the entry 
 into London of James I., May 7, 1603, he visited Lord Thomas Howard, 
 and kept his court four days at the Charter-house, whither he was con- 
 ducted, in splendid procession from Stamford Hill, through Islington. 
 
 In 1611, the estate was sold by Thomas Earl of Suffolk, for 13,000?., 
 to Thomas Sutton, the wealthy merchant of London, who endowed it as 
 *' the Hospital of King James ;" though it is now known as the Char- 
 ter-house, corrupted from the Chartreux of its monastic history. 
 
 Sutton fitted up the house and buildings ; but he died the same year, 
 Dec. 12, 1611, before he had perfected his good work, characterised by 
 Stow as " the greatest gift in England, either in Protestant or Catholic 
 times, ever bestowed by any individual." 
 
 Sutton was buried in a costly tomb in the Hospital chapel, both 
 which are perfect illustrations of the state of the sculptor's and builder's 
 art in the early part of the 17th century ; and here the first tribute of 
 praise was paid by Burrell, the preacher to the Hospital, in a sermon 
 to the memory of the pious founder, printed in 1629, but now as rare as 
 a MS. The vault was opened in 1842, when the body of Sutton was found 
 in lead, wrapped about it like a winding-sheet. 
 
 Over the present porter's lodge is the house formerly occupied by 
 the physicians of the Charter-house. The wooden gates are those of 
 the ancient monastery. The building to the right in the Entrance 
 Court is thought to be a part of the " fair dwelling" erected by Sir 
 Edward North on the ruins of the monastery about 1537. The mid- 
 dle court, now called the Master's Court, was also part of North's 
 building. The Long Gallery, originallv more than 100 feet, is now 
 reduced to 45 feet by partitions. The Washhouse Court is one of the 
 few remaining portions of the old monastery. The Preacher's Court 
 is the most important in appearance. The site of the chapel, from an 
 old plan now in existence, date about 1500, seems to be identical with 
 that of the monastery. The south wall is probably the oldest portion 
 of the building ; but the east wall is of considerable antiquity, for on 
 the removal of the wainscotting, in the course of repairs in 1842, an old 
 ambrie was discovered towards its south corner. The Ante- Chapel, 
 which, like the Evidence Room above it, has a groined roof, bears the 
 date 1512. The Great Chamber, or Old Governors' Room, was either 
 built or decorated by Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk, between 1565 
 and 1571 : it was restored in 1838, and is now the most perfect Elizabethan 
 apartment in London. It has a chimney-piece of wood, a centre and 
 two wings, in two stories, Tuscan and Ionic, reaching to the ceiling, 
 which is also elegantly ornamented. The walls are richly painted, and 
 hung with six pieces of tapestry. The Great Hall has a screen, music- 
 gallery, sculptured chimney-piece, and lantern in the roof; and here 
 hangs a noble portrait of the founder, Sutton. 
 
 Upon this foundation are maintained eighty pensioners, or poor 
 brethren, who " live together in collegiate style, provided with hand- 
 some apartments, and all necessaries, except apparel, in lieu of which 
 they are allowed 14?. a-year and a gown each. They are nominated, in 
 the same manner as the" scholars, by the Governors, who present in ro- 
 tation In 1850, there were forty -four scholars "on the foundation," 
 supported free of expense; and there are several exhibitions to the 
 Universities, available for foundation scho'ars only. (Low's Charities 
 of London.) The total number of scholars in 1850 was about 200. 
 
CHEAPSIDE. 73 
 
 The Charter-house is under the direction of the Queen, Prince 
 Albert, the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and thirteen other 
 Governors ; besides the Master of the Hospital, who resides within the 
 walls. The most distinguished Master was Dr. Thomas Burnet, au- 
 thor of the Sacred Theory of the Earth : he was elected in 1685, died 
 here in 1715, and was buried in the chapel of the institution. 
 
 Soon after Burnet's election, James II. addressed a letter to the Governors, 
 ordering them to admit one Andrew Popham as pensioner into the Hospital upon 
 the first vacancy, without tendering to him any oath, or requiring of him any 
 subscription or recogniiion, in conformity with Church of England doctrine, the 
 King dispensing with any statute or order of the Hospital to the contrary. Bur- 
 net, as junior Governor, was called upon to vote first, when he maintained that 
 by express Act of Parliament, 3 Car. I., no officer could be admitted into that 
 Hospital without taking the oaths of allegiance and supremacy. An attempt 
 was made, but without effect, to overrule th'S opinion. The Duke of Ormond 
 supported Burnet, and on the vote being put, Popham was rejected: and not- 
 withstanding the threats of the King and the Popish party, no member of the 
 communion was ever admitted into the Charter-house. 
 
 In 1652, Oliver Cromwell was elected Governor ; he was succeeded 
 by his son Richard in 1658. 
 
 Among the eminent scholars, or " Carthusians," were Richard 
 Crashaw, the poet ; Isaac Barrow, the divine : Blackstone, lord-chief- 
 justice ; Addison and Steele, both here together ; John Wesley ; lord- 
 chief-justice Ellenborough (buried in the chapel) ; and Lord Liverpool. 
 
 In the Old Court Room is celebrated the Anniversary of the Foun- 
 dation, on December 12 ; when is always sung the old Carthusian me- 
 lody, with this chorus : 
 
 " Then blessed be the memory 
 
 Of good old Thomas Stdto.i-, 
 Who gave us lodging learning, 
 And he gave us beef and mutton"" 
 
 In the Governors' Room in the Master's House, upon the elegant 
 chimney-piece, is the celebrated portrait of Sutton, the founder, aetatis 
 seventy -nine, anno 1611, in an elaborately carved frame. The other pic- 
 tures comprise whole-lengths of Charles II. ; Gilbert Sheldon, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, sitting ; William Earl of Craven, in armour ; 
 George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham ; George Talbot, Duke 
 of Shrewsbury ; the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth ; Lord Chancellor 
 Shaftesbury ; and a half-length of Dr. Thomas Burnet, by his friend 
 Sir Godfrey Kneller, very highly finished. 
 
 The entire internal economy of the establishment is vested in the 
 Master ; the manciple, or house-steward, provides the diet of the 
 Hospital, for which he has "to pay in ready money. ," The grounds, 
 which extend from the Hospital buildings to Wilderness-row and Gos- 
 well-street, include a playing-green of about three acres, a wilderness 
 of fine trees, with gravel and grass walks, and a kitchen -garden. South- 
 east of the green are two courts for tennis, a favourite pastime with 
 the Carthusians. 
 
 The history of this noble foundation has been written by Bearcroft, 
 Herne, and Smythe : and recently (1847) in Chronicles of Charter-hoitse, 
 by a Carthusian ; a clever work, with illustrations. 
 
 CHEAPSIDE, 
 
 The street extending from the Poultry and Bucklersbury to St. Paul's 
 and Newgate-street, was, some three centuries ago, worthily called 
 "the Beauty of London," and was famed for its "noted store of gold- 
 smiths," linen-drapers, haberdashers, &c. It is called from the Saxon 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 word Chepe, or market: the name, therefore, is the Market-side; and 
 in 1331 the south side only was built upon, and the north side was an 
 open field, where jousts, tournaments, or ridings, were often held. Stow 
 describes one of these joustings held in the reign of Edward III., Sept. 
 21, 1331 ; Avhen, " the stone pavement being covered with sand, that the 
 horses might not slide when they strongly set their feet to the ground, 
 the king held a tournament three days together, with the nobility, va- 
 liant men of the realm, and other strange knights. And to the end 
 the beholders might with the better ease see the same, there was a 
 wooden scaffold erected across the street, like unto a tower, wherein 
 the Queen Philippa, and many other ladies, richly attired, and as- 
 sembled from all parts of the realm, did stand to behold the jousts." 
 This frame brake down ; after which the king had a stone shed built 
 ''for himself, the queen, and other estates, to stand on, and there to 
 behold the joustings and other shows, at their pleasure, by the ohurch 
 of St. Mary Bow." This shed, or '* seldam," was similarly used in after 
 reigns, especially to behold the great watches on the eve of St. John 
 Baptist and St.* Peter at Midsummer. In 1510, on St. John's eve, 
 King Henry VIII. came to this place, then called the King's Head in 
 Cheape^in the livery of a yeoman of the guard, with an halbert on 
 his shoulder, and there beholding the watch, departed privily when 
 the watch was done ; "but on St. Peter's night next following/he and 
 the queen came royally riding to the said place, and there with their 
 nobles beheld the watch of the city, and returned in the morning." 
 When Bow Church was rebuilt, Wren provided, in place of the shed 
 or sild, a balcony in the tower, immediately over the principal entrance 
 in Cheapside ; and though the age of tournaments had passed away, the 
 Lord Mayor's pageants were long viewed from this balcony. 
 
 Cheapside Cross, which stood facing Wood-street, was the most 
 magnificent (except that of Charing,) of the nine crosses built by Ed- 
 ward I. to his queen Eleanor, and was (Mr. Hudson Turner states) the 
 work of Alexander of Abingdon. It was "re-edified" by John Hatherly, 
 mayor, by license procured in 1441 of Henry VI. ; it was regilt in 1522, 
 for'the visit of the Emperor Charles V. ; and in 1533, for the coronation 
 o: Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn ; newly burnished at the coronation 
 of Edward VI. ; and again newly gilt, 1554, against th3 arrival of 
 King Philip. After this- the Cross was presented by juries as standing 
 "in the highway to the let of carriages;" but they could not get it 
 removed; and it was by turns defaced and repaired, and its images 
 stolen and replaced, until May 2, 1643, when it was demolished to the 
 sound of trumpet, the workmen being protected by soldiery. 
 
 Nearly opposite Honey lane was the Standard, the place of execu- 
 tion ; and between Bucklersbury and the Poultry stood Westcheap, or 
 the Great Conduit, which brought the first supply of sweet water to 
 London, from Paddington ; and facing Foster-lane stood the Little 
 Conduit. Westward of the site of the Great Conduit, on the north 
 side, is Mercers' Hall and chapel, rebuilt after the Great Fire of 
 1666; the original chapel being an hospital purchased at the Dissolu- 
 tion by means of Sir Richard Gresham. Westward, next No. 142, is 
 Saddlers' Hall. Both these Halls have in their street fronts balconies 
 for viewing the City pageants. 
 
 The handsome s'tone-fronted house, No. 73, built by Sir C. Wren, 
 was, before the erection of the Mansion House, (1737,) sometimes 
 tenanted by the Lord Mayor, during his year of office : here Mr. i egg, 
 the publisher, amassed great wealth. Nearly opposite, between Iron- 
 monger-lane and King-street, is the Atlas Insurance Office, with three 
 enriched fronts, granite basement, and stone superstructure : built in 
 1839. 
 
CHELSEA. 75 
 
 CHELSEA, 
 
 A large and populous parish upon the north bank of the Thames : it was 
 a village of 300 houses in the last century, but now extends from bevond 
 Battersea or Chelsea Bridge almost to Hyde Park Corner. It lies about 
 fifteen feet above the river; and, according to Norden, is named from 
 its strand, " like the chesel (ceosel or cesel) which the sea casteth up of 
 sand and pebble-stones, thereof called Cheselscy, briefly Chelsey, as is 
 Chelsey (Selsey) in Sussex." In a Saxon charter, however, it is writ- 
 ten Cealchylle ; in Domesday, Cercehede and Chalced ; and Sir Thomas 
 More wrote it Chelchith, though it began to be written Chelsey in. 
 the 16th century. Among the possessors of the manor were Sir Regi- 
 nald Bray (temp. Henry VII.) ; it was given by Henry VIII. to Kath- 
 erine Parr as a portion, of her marriage settlement ; and it was bought 
 of Lord Cheyne by Sir Hans Sloane in 1712, from whom it passed by 
 marriage and bequest to Baron Cadogan, of Oakley, in whose family 
 the property remains : hence the names of Cheyne Walk, Cadogan and 
 Hans Places, and Sloane and Oakley Streets. 
 
 Chelsea was once a place of courtly resort : many of the nobility, 
 as well as scholars and philosophers, resided here ; and its noted 
 taverns and public gardens were much frequented in the 17th and 18th 
 centuries. The principal features now are its palace-hospital for sol- 
 diers, its Botanic Gardens, its Dutch-like river terrace (Cheyne- walk), 
 mostly brick-built, and fronted by lofty trees ; and. its olden church, 
 with a heavy brick tower. 
 
 At Chelsea lived Sir Thomas More, in a mansion at the north end of Beanfort- 
 row, with gardens extending to the Thames. Here More was visited bv Henry 
 VIII., who, " after dinner, in a fair garden of his, walked with him hy the space 
 of an hour, holding his arm about his neck ;" and used to ascend with him to the 
 house-top to observe the stars and discourse of astronomy. A more illustrious 
 visitor was Era-mus, who describes the house as "a practical school of the 
 Christian religion." Holbein was kindly leceived here by More, where the 
 painter worked, for near three years, upon port aits of the Chancellor, his rela- 
 tions, and friends. More also hired a house foraged people in Chelsea, whom he 
 daily relieved. His own establishment was large: Erasmus says, "there he 
 converseth with his wife, his son, his daughters-ifi-law, his three grand-daugh- 
 ters with their husbands, with eleven great-grandchildren." More resigned the 
 Great Seal in 1533, and retired to Chelsea for study and devotion; but d smissed 
 his re inue, and gave his barge to his successor in the Chancellorship. After his 
 execution, July 6, 1535 (a-cording to Aubrey), his body was buried in Chelsea 
 Church (which he had regularly attended); and his head was placed in a vault 
 in St. Dunstan's Church, Canterbury. More's mansion was purchased by Sir 
 Hans Sloane, and taken down in 1740. 
 
 Sloane dwelt in the New Manor-House, nearly opposite the Pier. 
 In the hamlet of Little Chelsea lived Sir Bulstrode Whitelocke ; Mr. 
 Pym, member of the Long Parliament ; Bishop Fowler, Sir Richard 
 Steele, Addison, and John Locke; Lord Shaftesbury, (author of the 
 Characteristics,} in the house now St. George's additional workhouse; 
 and here Dr. Smollett retired after his failure in practice at Bath. 
 Dean Swift had lodgings "a little beyond the church;" and Sir Robert 
 "Walpole had a house adjoining Gough House : hence, Walpole-street. 
 
 Towards the western end of Cheyne Walk, the Bishops of Win- 
 chester possessed a palace from 1663, until the death of Brownlow 
 North in 1820. Further west, near the river side, was the Chelsea 
 China Manufactory. (See CHELSEA CHINA..) 
 
 In Cheyne- walk was the Museum and Coffee-house of Don Saltero, 
 renowned in the swimming exploits of Dr. Franklin. The landlord, James 
 Salter, was a noted barber, who made a collection of natural curiosities, 
 which acquired him the name (probably first given him by Steele,) of 
 Don Saltero. (See Tatler, ]Nos. 34, 195, and 226.) The quiet tavern 
 
76 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 remains, but the Museum was dispersed by auction about the year 1807. 
 Another wonder was the old Chelsea Bun-house, which possessed a 
 sort of rival Museum to Don Saltero's. (See CHELSEA BUNS.) It was 
 taken down in 1839. Eastward is the Royal Hospital (see CHELSEA 
 HOSPITAL) ; and on part of its garden was the gay Ranelagh, from 
 1740 to 1815. Here, too, is the Apothecaries' Company's Garden (see 
 BOTANIC GARDENS); and nearly opposite is "the Red House" at Bat- 
 tersea, about fifty yards west of which Caesar is believed by some anti- 
 quaries to have forded the Thames. 
 
 Chelsea has two churches dedicated to St. Luke. The old river- 
 side church was built in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and 
 has an eastern chapel added by Sir Thomas More. In the chancel is 
 a black marble tablet to More, placed there by himself in 1532, three 
 years before his death : it was restored by Si/John Lawrence about 
 1644, and by subscription in 1833 : the inscription, in Latin, is by More. 
 Here are also several other memorials of eminent persons, including 
 a monument to Jane, wife of the ambitious John Dudley, Duke of 
 Northumberland ; and to Lady Jane Cheyne, by Bernini. In the 
 churchyard is the tomb of Sir "Hans Sloane^ egg-shaped and entwined 
 with serpents; also a monument to Philip Miller, erected by the Lin- 
 naean and Horticultural Societies ; and here rests Cipriani, the painter. 
 Several eminent persons have been interred in the church without 
 monuments. (See Cunningham's Handbook of London, 2dedit.,p. 307.) 
 
 St. Luke's new church, between King's Road and Fulham Road, 
 was built by Savage, in 1820, in the style of the fourteenth and fifteenth 
 centuries, and has a pinnacled tower 142 feet high. 
 
 Above Battersea Bridge is Cremorne House, formerly the elegant 
 villa of Lord Cremorne, who had here a fine collection of Italian and 
 Flemish pictures ; adjoining was the residence of Dr. Benjamin Hoadley 
 (son of the bishop), the author of The Suspicious Husband. Cre- 
 morne has been converted into a place of public entertainment, for 
 which the grounds are well adapted. 
 
 CHELSEA BUNS. 
 
 Chelsea has been famed for its Buns since the commencement of the last 
 century. Swift, in his Journal to Stella, 1712, writes " Pray are not the 
 fine buns sold herein our town, as the rare Chelsea buns? I bought one 
 to-day in my walk," &c. They were made and sold at "the Old Original 
 Chelsea Bun-house," in Jews'-row, a one-storied building, with a colon- 
 nade projecting over the foot-pavement. It was customary for the Royal 
 Family and the nobility and gentry to visit the Bun-house in the morning. 
 George II.. Queen Caroline, and the Princesses frequently honoured the 
 proprietor, Richard Hands, with their company ; as did al-o George 
 III. and Queen Charlotte ; her Majesty presented Mrs. Hands with a 
 silver half-gallon mug, with five guineas in it. On Good Friday morn- 
 ings, upwards of 50,000 persons have assembled here, when disturb- 
 ances often arose among the London mob ; and in one day more than 
 250Z. have been taken for buns. The Bun-house was also much fre- 
 quented by visitors to Ranelagh, after the closing of which the bun- 
 trade declined. Notwithstanding, on Good Friday, April 18, 1839, up- 
 wards of 240,000 buns were sold here. Soon after, the Bun-house was 
 sold and pulled down ; and at the same time was dispersed a collection 
 of pictures, models, grotesque figures, and modern antiques, which had 
 for a century added the attractions of a museum to the bun celebrity. 
 Another Bun-house has been built : but the olden charm of the place has 
 fled. In the Mirror for April 6, 1839, are two views of the old Bun- 
 house, sketched just before its demolition. 
 
CHELSEA HOSPITAL. 77 
 
 CHELSEA CHINA. 
 
 The earliest manufactories of porcelain in England were those at 
 Bow* and at Chelsea, both which have long been extinct. "The Chel- 
 sea ware, bearing a very imperfect similarity in body to the Chinese, 
 admitted only of a vary fusible lead glaze ; and in the taste of its pat- 
 terns, and the style of their execution, stood as low, perhaps, as any on 
 the list." (A. Aikin ; Trans. Soc. Arts.} This character, however, 
 applies only to the later productions. 
 
 Faulkner, in his History of Chelsea, (1829,) states : 
 
 "The Chelsea China Manufactory was situate at the corner of Justice-walk, 
 
 and occupied the houses to the upper end of the street. Several of the large old 
 
 houses were used as shew-rooms. It has been discontinued for more than forty 
 
 years, the whole of the premisss pulled down, and new houses erected on the site." 
 
 Justice-walk took its name from a magistrate who resided in the 
 house at the south corner of Church-street, whence formerly an avenue 
 of lime-trees extended to Lawrence-street ; and in the latter were the 
 ovens of the Chelsea China Manufactory, where Dr. Johnson made ex- 
 periments on tea-cups. The premises, therefore, were not far from 
 Church-street, and near the water-side. They subsequently became a 
 stained paper Manufactory, conducted by Messrs. Echardts and Wood- 
 mason, in 1786; afterwards by Messrs. Bowen and Co.; and in 1810 by 
 Messrs. Harwood and Co. We have been favoured with these addenda 
 by Mr. T. Crofton Croker, F.S.A. 
 
 In July, 1850, we saw in the stock of Mr. Heigham, Fulham-road, 
 a set of three Chelsea vases, remarkably fine in form and colour ; each 
 bearing a view of the old church at Chelsea and river- side. 
 
 " Martin Lister mentions a manufacture at Chelsea as early as 1698, comparing 
 its productions with those of St. Cloud, near Paris. It was patronised by 
 George II., who brought over artificers from Brunswick and Saxony; whence, 
 probably, M. Brongniart terms Chelsea a ' Manufacture Royale.' Its reputation 
 commenced about 1740; and in 1745 the celebrity of Chelsea porcelain was re- 
 garded with jealousy by the manufacturers of France, who therefore petitioned 
 Louis XV. to concede to them exclusive privileges. About 175<i, it was under 
 the direction of M. Spremont, a foreigner. The productions of the Chelsea fur- 
 naces werj thought worthy to view with those of the celebrated manufactories of 
 Germany. Walpole, in his correspondence wiih Sir Horace Mann, mentions a 
 service of Chelsea porcelain sent by the King and Queen to the Duke of M^cklen- 
 burg, which cost 12001. The Duke of Cumberland took much interest in pro- 
 moting the success of this interesting manufacture. The mark is an Anchor, in 
 gold, burnished on the best specimens, and red on the inferior." 
 
 We are indebted for this information to Mr. Forster's piquant notes 
 to the Catalogue of the Sale at Stowe, in 1848, where the finest speci- 
 mens "of rare old Chelsea," a pair of small vases, painted with Roman 
 triumphs, sold for 231. 10s. There were but few specimens of Chelsea 
 ware sold at Strawberry Hill in 1842. At the sale of frhe late Sir John 
 Macdonald's collection, in 1850, a pair of cups and saucers, beautifully 
 painted with birds, brought 3QL 15s. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL 
 
 Occupies the site of "Chelsea College," commenced by Dr. Sutcliffe, 
 Dean of Exeter, in the reign of James I., but only in part built. Its 
 object was to maintain fellows in holy orders, " to answer all the ad- 
 versaries of religion," and others to write the history of their own 
 times. It was nicknamed " Controversy College" by Archbishop Laud ; 
 the whole scheme and its originator were mercilessly ridiculed by 
 
 * Bow China, formerly made at Stratford-le-Bow, is always marked with a 
 crescent, or bow : it much resembles in quality the old Worcester or Derby, 
 and is mostly of blue pattern ; it is scarce, but never fine. 
 
78 CURIOSITIES 07 LONDON. 
 
 the wits of the day, and thus failed. It was given by Charles II. to the 
 then newly-established Royal Society, who, in 1681-82, sold the pro- 
 perty to Sir Stephen Fox for 1300/., as a site for a Royal Hospital for 
 aged and disabled soldiers, the building of which has been attributed to 
 Fox, as well as to the influence of Nell Gwynne. " No matter," says 
 Faulkner, " with whom the idea may have originated, whether with 
 Sir Stephen Fox, with his master (Charles II.), or with Nell Gwynne; 
 it is certain that but for his exertions the project would have come to 
 nothing." One of these traditions is kept in countenance by the head of 
 Nell Gwynne having been for very many years the sign of a public- 
 house in Grosvenor-row, Pimlico. More than one entry in Evelyn's 
 Diary, however, prove that Sir Stephen "had not only the whole 
 managing" of the plan, but was himself "a grand benefactor" to it. 
 He was mainly advised by Evelyn, who arranged the officers, " would 
 needes have a library, and mentioned several bookes." 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren was appointed architect ; and the foundation- 
 stone was laid, Feb. 16, 1682, by Charles II., who promised to provide 
 the funds, and was assisted by public subscription. The progress of 
 the building is recorded in this inscription on the southern front : 
 
 "In subsidium et levamen emeritorum venio, belloque fractorum, condidit 
 Carolus Secundus, auxil. Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gulielmus et Maria, Rex 
 et Regina, MDCXC." 
 
 The building, which cost 150,0007., is of red brick, with stone quoins, 
 cornices, pediments, and columns, and is remarkable for its harmonious 
 proportions. It consists of three courts, two of which are spacious 
 quadrangles ; the third, the central one, is open on the south side, next the 
 Thames ; and in the area is a statue of Charles II., in Roman imperial 
 armour, sculptured by Gibbons, for Tobias Rustat. In the eastern and 
 western wings of this court are the wards of the pensioners. At the ex- 
 tremity of the eastern wing is the Governor's house, with a state apart- 
 ment, and portraits of Charles I., his queen, and two sons Charles, 
 Prince of Wales, and James, Duke of York ; Charles II., William III., 
 and George III., and Queen Charlotte. The north front is of great ex- 
 tent, and faced by avenues of limes and horse-chestnuts. In the centre 
 is a tetrastyle Roman-Doric portico, surmounted by a handsome lofty 
 clock- turret in the roof. 
 
 Beneath are the principal entrances. To the right is the Chapel, the 
 furniture and plate of which were given by James II., and the organ 
 bv Major Ingram ; the altar-piece has a painting of the Ascension, 
 by Sebastian Ricci. In the left wing is the Hall, wherein the pen- 
 sioners dine : here is an equestrian portrait of Charles II., by Verrio 
 and H. Cooke ; and an allegorical picture of the victories of the Duke 
 of Wellington, by James AVard, R.A. Both the Hall and Chapel are 
 paved with black and white marble : in each are suspended colours 
 captured by the British army ; in the chapel are thirteen eagles taken 
 from Napoleon, and in the Hall, fragments of the standards captured 
 at Blenheim ; in addition are dragon banners of the Chinese, and the 
 trophies of the Sikh campaign of 1840. 
 
 The old soldiers receive pensions from funds voted by Parliament : 
 in 1850 there were nearly 70,000 out-pensioners, who received 6d., 9d., 
 and 1*. per diem ; there were 539 in-pensioners, who were well clothed 
 and fed in the Hospital, and were allowed Id. a-day for tobacco, which 
 is called " her Majesty's bounty." They wear long scarlet coats, lined 
 with blue, and the original three-cornered cocked hats of the last cen- 
 tury : undress, a foraging cap, inscribed R. H. Their ages vary from 
 60 to 90 years, and two veterans had in 1850 attained the age of 104. 
 The annual rate of mortality among the pensioners is 27 per cent. 
 
CHESS-CLUBS. 79 
 
 Adjoining the Hospital is a burial-ground for the pensioners, wherein 
 are the following data : 
 
 Thomas Asbey ....... died 1737, aged 112 
 
 Captain L-iurence ?, 1765 , 95 
 
 Robert Comming 1767 , 116 
 
 Peter Bowling . 1768 , 102 
 
 A soldier who fought at the battle of the Boyne . ,, 1772 , 111 
 
 Peter Bennet, of Tinmouth 1773 , 107 
 
 In 1739 was interred here Christian Davis, alias Mother Eoss, who 
 had served in campaigns under William III. and the Duke of Marl- 
 borough, and whose third husband was a pensioner in the Hospital. 
 
 The Hospital Gardens are, in a measure, open to the public, but are 
 little frequented. The river terrace is bordered with dwarf limes, and 
 there are besides some fine old shady trees. 
 
 North of the Hospital is the Royal Military Asylum, for the support 
 and education of the children of soldiers and non- commissioned officers: 
 the first stone of the building was laid by the Duke of York in 1801. 
 
 The Hospital and Asylum may be seen daily, from 10 till 4 : the 
 boys parade on Fridays. 
 
 CHESS-CLUBS. 
 
 In 1747, the principal, if not the only Chess-Club in the Metropolis 
 met at Slaughter's Coffee-house, St. Marti n's-lane. The leading players 
 of this Club were Sir Abraham Janssen, Philip Stamma(from Aleppo), 
 Lord Godolphin, Lord Sunderland, and Lord Elibank ; Cunningham, 
 the historian ; Dr. Black and Dr. Cowper; and it was through their 
 invitation that the celebrated Philidor was induced to visit England. 
 
 Another Club was shortly afterwards founded at the Salopian Cof- 
 fee-house, Charing Cross : and a few years later, a third, which met 
 next door to the Thatched House Tavern, in St. James's- street. It was 
 here that Philidor exhibited his wonderful faculty for playing blind- 
 fold ; some instances of which we find in the newspapers of the period: 
 " Yesterday, at the Chess-Club in St. Jame>'s-s'reet, Monsieur Philidor per- 
 formed one of those wonderful exhibitions for which he is so much eel -brated. He 
 played three different games at once without, seeing either of the tables. His op- 
 ponents were Count Bruhl and Mr. Bowdler (the two best players in London), and 
 Mr. Maseres. He defeated Count Bruhl in one hour and twenty minutes, and Mr. 
 Maseres in two hours; Mr. Bowdler reduced his games to a drawn battle in one 
 hour and three quarters. To those who understand Chess, this exertion of M. 
 Philid<>r's abilities must appear one of the greatest of which the human memory 
 is susceptible. He goes through it with astonishing accuracy, and often coirects 
 mistakes in those who have the board before them." 
 
 In 1795, the veteran, then nearly seventy years of age, played three 
 blindfold matches in public. The last of these, which came off shortly 
 before his death, we find announced in the daily newspapers thus : 
 
 "CHESS-CLUB, 1795. PARSLOE'S, ST. JAMES'S STREET. 
 
 By particular desiie, Mons. Philidor, positively for the last time, will play on 
 Saturday, the 20th of June, at two o'clock precisely, three games at once against 
 three g6"d players ; two of them without seeing either of the boards, and the 
 third looking over the table. He most respectfully invites all the members of 
 the Chess-Club ro honour him with their presence. I adies and gentlemen not 
 belonging to the Club may be provided with tickets at the above-mentioned house, 
 to see the match, at five shillings each." 
 
 Upon the death cf Philidor, the Chess-Clubs at the West-end 
 seem to have declined; and in 1807, the stronghold and rallying point 
 for the lovers of the game was "the London Chess Club," which was 
 established in the City, and for many years held its meetings at Tomm's 
 Coffee-house, in Cornhill. To this Club we are indebted for many of 
 the finest chess-players of the age ; and even now, after the lapse of 
 nearly a century, the Club still flourishes, and numbers among its mem- 
 bers some of the leading proficients. 
 
80 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 About the year 1833, a Club was founded by a few amateurs in 
 Bedford- street. Covent Garden. This establishment, which obtained 
 remarkable celebrity as the arena of the famous contests between La 
 Bourdonnais and McDonnell, was dissolved in 1840 ; but shortly after- 
 wards, through the exertions of Mr. Staunton, was re-formed under 
 the name of " the St. George's Club," in Cavendish-square, where it still 
 continues, deservedly ranking as the most influential club of the kind 
 in England. 
 
 In addition to the St. George's Club, at the "West End, and the 
 London Chess Club, which of late years has held its meetings at the 
 George and Vulture Tavern, Cornhill, there are many minor insti- 
 tutions in various parts of the metropolis and its environs, where 
 Chess, and Chess only, forms the staple recreation of the members. 
 There are also the magnificent Cigar Divan, No. 100, Strand, belonging 
 to Mr. Ries; and Kilpack's well-appointed Divan, 42 King-street, 
 Covent Garden ; at each of which the leading Chess publications are 
 accessible to visitors, and where as many as twenty Chess-boards may 
 often be seen in requisition at the same time. 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, 
 
 Newgate -street, is one of the five Royal Hospitals of the City of Lon- 
 don, and was founded for destitute children, by Edward VI., June 26, 
 1553, on the site of the Grey Friars' Monastery. At the same time the 
 King founded St. Thomas's and Bridewell Hospitals : the three found- 
 ations forming part of a comprehensive scheme of charity, originating 
 in a sermon preached before his Majesty by the pious Bishop Ridley. 
 Besides the sites and appurtenances, Edward bestowed lands for their 
 support to the amount of 600Z. a-year ; " and then said in the hearing 
 of his Councell, 'Lord, I yield Thee most hearty thanks, that Thou hast 
 given me life thus long to finish this work to the glory of Thy Name.' 
 After which foundation established, he lived not above two daies ; 
 whose life would have been wished equall to the patriarches, if it had 
 pleased God so to have prolonged it." (Stow.) 
 
 A picture (attributed to Holbein) which hangs in Chiist's Hospital Hall portrays 
 this interesting scene. The young monarch s tson an elevated throne, in a scarlet 
 and ermined robe, holding the sceptre in his left hand, and presenting with the 
 other the charter to the kneeling Lord Mayor. By his side stands the Chancellor, 
 holding the seals, and next to him are other officers of state. Bishop Ridley 
 kneels before him with uplifted hands, as if suppl-cating a blessing on the event; 
 whilst the Aldermen, &c., with the Lord Mayor, kneel on both sides, occupying 
 the middle g ound of the picture; and lastly, in front are a double row of boys 
 on one side, and girls on the other, from the master and matron down to the boy 
 and girl who have stepped forward from their respective rows, and kneel with 
 raised hands before the King. 
 
 The old monastic buildings were then repaired : the citizens became 
 animated by Edward's zeal ; and, by aid of their benefactions, in Nov. 
 1552, 340 " poore fatherlesse children " were admitted within the ancient 
 monastery walls. " On Christmas-day," says Stow, " while the Lord 
 Maior and Aldermen rode to Paul's, the children of Christ's Hospitall 
 stood from St. Lawrence-lane end in Cheape towards Paul's, all in one 
 livery of russet cotton, 340 in. number ; and at Easter next they were in 
 blue, at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since." Hence the 
 popular name of the Hospital, "the Blue-Coat School." 
 
 Since this period, the income of the institution has known much 
 fluctuation ; and consequently, also, the number of inmates. The 340 
 children with which the Hospital opened had dwindled in 1580 to 
 150. The object of the institution has also, in the lapse of time, be- 
 come materially changed, which may in a great measure be attributed 
 to the influence of the Governors, or benefactors, its chief supporters. 
 
CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. 81 
 
 The Hospital suffered materially in the Great Fire of 1666, when the 
 church of the monastery was destroyed. It was rebuilt by Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, between the years 1687 and 1705 ; and here are annually 
 preached the " Spital Sermons." There is scarcely any portion of the 
 ancient friary remaining, except the Cloisters. 
 
 The Hospital was rebuilt by the Governors, by anticipating its re- 
 venue. The first important addition to the foundation, after the Fire, 
 was the Mathematical School, founded by Charles II. in 1672, for forty 
 boys to be instructed in navigation : they are called "King's Boys," and 
 wear a badge on the right shoulder. Lest this Mathematical School 
 should fail for want of boys properly qualified to supply it, one Mr. 
 Stone, a Governor, left a legacy to maintain a subordinate Mathema- 
 tical School of twelve boys ("the Twelves")} who wear a badge on the 
 left shoulder ; to these have been added " the Twos." 
 
 This was the first considerable extension of the system of education 
 at the Hospital, which originally consisted of a grammar-school for boys ; 
 and a separate school for girls, where the latter were taught to read, 
 sew, and mark. A book is preserved containing the records of the Hos- 
 pital from its foundation, and an anthem sung by the first children. 
 
 The East Cloister and south front were next (1675) rebuilt by Sir 
 Robert Clayton, alderman, and cost him about 7000Z. ; but it was not 
 known who was the benefactor until the whole was finished. 
 
 The Writing-School, a large edifice, was built by Wren in 1694, at 
 the expense of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681, of whom a marble 
 statue is placed in the faade. This school is situate on the west side 
 of the playground, and being supported on columns, the under part, 
 called the New Cloister, shelters the boys in bad weather. 
 
 The Ward over the East Cloister was rebuilt, in 1705, by Sir Francis 
 Child, the banker. In 1795, the Grammar School, of neat yellow brick, 
 near Little Britain, and on the north side of the ditch playground, was 
 erected partly with a sum of money bequeathed by John Smith, Esq. 
 
 The old buildings of the Hospital had been altered, enlarged, and 
 augmented at different periods ; but, becoming ruinous and unsafe, the 
 Governors, in 1803, determined to rebuild the whole. With a part 
 of the general revenues of the Hospital was, therefore, established a 
 building fund ; and with that, aided by a grant of 5000/. from the Cor- 
 poration of London, and many private benefactions, the grand under- 
 taking was commenced. The architect was the late John Shaw, F.R.S. 
 and F.S.A., who has been succeeded by his son. Of the great Dining 
 Hall the first stone was laid by the Duke of York, April 25th, 1825. This 
 noble structure is in the Tudor style, and is built partly on the ancient 
 wall of London, and partly on the foundation of the refectory of the 
 Grey Friars. The back wall stands on the site of the ditch that an- 
 ciently surrounded London, and is built on piles driven 20 feet deep : 
 in excavating for the foundation, there were found some Roman urns 
 and coins, and some curious leathern sandals. The southern or principal 
 front, facing Newgate-street, is supported by buttresses, and has an octa- 
 gonal tower at each extremity ; and the summit is embattled and pin- 
 nacled. On the ground story is an open arcade (187 feet in length, and 
 16i feet in width) : here also are a meeting-room for the Governors, 
 the Hospital wardrobe, &c. Over the centre arch of the arcade is a 
 bust of Edward VI. 
 
 The area in front, or play-ground, is enclosed by handsome metal 
 gates, enriched with the arms of the Hospital : argent, a cross gules, 
 in the dexter chief, a dagger of the first (City of London), on a chief 
 azure, between two fleurs-de-lis or, a rose argent. 
 
 The Dining Hall, with its lobby and organ -gallery, occupies the 
 entire upper story, which is 187 feet long, 51 feet wide, and 47 feet 
 
82 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 high : it is lit by nine large and handsome windows on the south side : 
 next to Westminster Hall, it is the noblest room in the metropolis. 
 The arcade beneath the Hall is built with blocks of Haytor granite, 
 highly wrought ; and the remainder of the front is of Portland stone. 
 The basement story contains the Kitchen, 67 feet in length and 33 
 feet in width, besides butteries, cellars, &c. 
 
 In the rear of the Hall is the Infirmary, a large building erected in 
 1822; and on the east and west sides of the Cloister are the Dormitories. 
 
 In the great Dining Hall, besides the picture of Edward VI. granting 
 the Hospital Charter (said to be by Holbein), is a large painting, by 
 Verrio, of James II. on his throne, receiving the " Mathematical Boys," 
 as at the annual presentation to this day ; though in this picture are 
 girls as well as boys. It was presented to the Hospital by Verrio, who 
 also painted a full-length of Charles II., which hangs near it. Here, 
 too, are full-lengths of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, by F. Grant, 
 A.R.A. ; and Brook Watson's escape, when a boy, from a shark, with 
 the loss of a leg, while bathing, painted by J. S. Copley, R.A., the father 
 of Lord Lyndhurst. 
 
 In this Hall are held the " Suppings in Public," on the seven Sun- 
 day evenings preceding Easter Sunday, and on that evening, to which 
 visitors are admitted by tickets given by the Treasurer and by the Go- 
 vernors, each of whom issues a certain number. The tables are laid 
 with cheese in wooden bowls; beer in wooden piggins, poured from 
 leathern jacks; and bread brought in huge baskets. The official com- 
 pany then enter, the Lord Mayor or President taking a state chair made 
 of oak from old St. Katherine's Church ; a hymn is sung, accompanied 
 by the organ ; a Grecian reads the evening service from the pulpit, silence 
 being enforced by three strokes of a hammer. After prayers, the meal 
 commences, the visitors walking between the tables. At its close, the 
 " trade boys" take up the piggins and jacks, baskets, bowls, and candle- 
 sticks, and pass in procession before the authorities, bowing to them ; 
 the entire 800 boys thus passing out. This interesting spectacle was 
 witnessed by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert on Sunday evening, 
 March 9, 1845. 
 
 The Spital Sermons* are preached in Christchurch, Newgate-street, 
 on Easter Monday and Tuesday, before the Lord Mayor and Corpora- 
 tion, and Governors of the five Royal Hospitals ; the Bishops in turn 
 preaching on Monday, and usually his Lordship's chaplain on Tuesday. 
 On Monday, the children, headed by the beadle, proceed to the Mansion 
 House, and return in procession to Christchurch with the Lord Mayor 
 and City authorities, to hear the sermon. On Tuesday, the children 
 again go to the Mansion House, and pass through the Egyptian Hall 
 before the Lord Mayor, each boy receiving a glass of wine, two buns, and 
 a shilling ; the monitors half-a-crown each, and the Grecians a guinea. 
 They then return to Christchurch, as on Monday. The boys formerly 
 visited the Ro} r al Exchange on Easter Monday ; but this has been dis- 
 continued since the burning of the last Exchange in 1838. 
 
 At the first Drawing-room of the year, forty " Mathematical Boys" 
 are presented to the Sovereign, who gives them 81. 8s. as a gratuity. To 
 this other members of the Royal Family formerly added smaller sums, and 
 the whole was divided among the ten boys who left the school in the 
 year. On the illness of King George III. these presentations were dis- 
 continued ; but the Governors of the Hospital continued to pay II. 3s. y 
 the amount ordinarily received by each, to every boy on quitting. The 
 practice of receiving the children was revived by William IV. 
 
 Each of the " Mathematical Boys" having passed his Trinity-House 
 
 * See CHURCHES: CHRIST CHURCH, Newgate-street, \vith the origin of the 
 Spital Sermons. 
 
CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. 83 
 
 examination, and received testimonials of his good conduct, is presented 
 with a watch, as a reward, worth from 91. to 131. ; in addition to an outfit 
 of clothes, books, mathematical instruments, a Gunter's scale, a quad- 
 rant, and sea-chest. 
 
 On St. Matthew's Day, (Sept. 21,) "the Grecians" deliver orations 
 before the Lord Mayor, Corporation, Governors, and their friends ; this 
 being a relic of the scholars' disputations in the cloisters. 
 
 Christ's Hospital, by ancient custom, possesses the privilege of 
 addressing the Sovereign on the occasion of his or her coming into 
 the City to partake of the hospitality of the Corporation of London. 
 On the visit of Queen Victoria in 1837, a booth was erected for the 
 Hospital boys in St. Paul's Churchyard ; and on the Royal carriage 
 reaching the Cathedral west gate, the senior scholar, with the Head 
 Master and Treasurer, advanced to the coach-door, and delivered a con- 
 gratulatory address to her Majesty, with a copy of the same on vellum. 
 
 The dress of the " Blue-Coat" boys is the costume of the citizens of 
 London at the time of the foundation of the Hospital, when blue coats 
 were the common habit of apprentices and serving-men, and yellow 
 stockings were generally worn. Mr. Brayley describes the dress as 
 the nearest approach to the monkish costume now worn ; (Londiniana, 
 vol. ii. p. 153 :) the dark-blue coat, with a close-fitting body and loose 
 skirts, being the ancient tunic, and the under-coat, or " yellow," the 
 sleeveless under-tunic of the monastery. The girdle was also a monas- 
 tic appendage : the boys wear it of red leather. Yellow worsted stock- 
 ings, a flat black woollen cap, (scarcely larger than a saucer), and a 
 clerical neckband, complete the dress. 
 
 The education of the boys consists of reading, writing, and arithme- 
 tic, French, the classics, and the mathematics. There are sixteen Ex- 
 hibitions for scholars at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge, 
 besides a "Pitt Scholarship," and a "Times Scholarship," the latter 
 founded by the proprietors of that journal, with a fund subscribed by 
 the public in testimony of their detection of the Bogle fraud, 1841. 
 There are also separate trusts held by the Governors of the Hospital, 
 which are distributed to poor widows, to the blind, and in apprenticing 
 boys, &c. The annual income of the Hospital is about 50,000/. j its ordi- 
 nary disbursements, are 48,OOOJ. 
 
 There is printed annually, and freely circulated, "A True Report of the Num- 
 ber of Children and other poor People maintained in the several Royal Hospitals 
 of the City of London, under the pious care of the Right Honourable the Lord 
 Mayor, Aldermen, and Governors thereof, for the year last past." This docu- 
 ment, in appearance, resembles a sheet almanack : it is headed by the Easter 
 anthem set to music ; and it is enclosed in a woodcut border, the design of which 
 indicates the custom of printing these Reports to have been of long standing. 
 In the upper portion of the border are the Royal Arms ; at the sides are the City 
 Arms, ancient and modern ; in medallions at the corners are three figures of the 
 Christ's Hospital boys, and one of a girl ; at the foot is an emblematic group, with 
 the old Hospital in the background ; and beneath it is inscribed on a ribbon, " Pray 
 remember the Poor." 
 
 There are several portraits in the Treasurer's room, including two 
 of Edward VI. by Holbein, one of which belonged to Sir Anthony 
 Mildmay, Queen Elizabeth's Chancellor. 
 
 The general burial-ground of the Hospital is between the south 
 cloister and the houses in Newgate-street, where the funerals formerly 
 took place by torch-light, and the service was preceded by an anthem, 
 thus reviving the monastic associations of the place. The burials are 
 now by daylight. 
 
 Among the eminent "Blues" from the present period were, Leigh 
 Hunt ; Thomas Barnes, many years editor of the Times newspaper ; 
 Thomas Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes ; S. T. Coleridge, the 
 
84 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 poet, and Charles Lamb, his contemporary ; Middleton, Bishop of Cal- 
 cutta ; Jeremiah Markland, the best scholar and critic of the last cen- 
 tury ; Samuel Richardson, the novelist ; Joshua Barnes, the scholiast ; 
 Bishop Stillingfleet ; Camden, " the nourrice of antiquitie ;" and Cam- 
 pion, the learned Jesuit of the age of Elizabeth. Coleridge, Charles 
 Lamb, and Leigh Hunt have published many interesting reminiscences 
 of their contemporaries in the school. 
 
 The subordinate establishment is at Hertford, to which the younger 
 boys are sent preparatory to their entering on the foundation in Lon- 
 don, which takes plaee as vacancies occur. The building at Hertford 
 was erected by the Hospital Governors in 1683; when full, it will con- 
 tain 416 children, of whom about 200 are taught the classics. There is 
 likewise accommodation here for 80 girls. 
 
 Besides the Lord Mayor, Court of Aldermen, and twelve members of the 
 Common Council, who are Governors ex officio, there are between 400 and 500 
 other Governors, at the head of whom are the Queen and Prince Albert, with 
 the Prince of Wales and Prince Alfred, and the Duke of Cambridge. The qua- 
 lification for Governor is a donation of 5001. ; an Alderman may nominate a 
 Governor for election at half-price. There are from 1400 to 1500 children on the 
 foundation, including those at the branch establishment at Hertford. About 200 
 boys are admitted annually, (at the age of from 7 to 10 years), by presentations of 
 the Governors; the Queen, the Lord Mayor (two presentations), and the Court of 
 Aldermen presenting annually, and the other Governors in rotation, so that the 
 privilege occurs about once in three or four years. A List of the Governors having 
 presentations is published annually in March, and is to be had at the counting- 
 house of the Hospital. " Grecians" and " King's Boys" remain ia the school 
 after they are fifteen years old ; but the other boys leave at that age. 
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 London and the suburbs, in the Middle Ages, contained, according 
 to Fitz-Stephen, " 13 churches belonging to convents, besides 126 
 lesser parish churches." Stow states the entire number of churches 
 at his time, in and about London, within four miles' compass, at 139 ; 
 and thus they, doubtless, remained down to 1666, when the Great Fire 
 at once destroyed 89 of their number, 35 of which were not rebuilt. 
 The sites of the latter are mostly, to this day, denoted by their burial- 
 grounds, a few of which have each a tablet inscribed with the name of 
 the late church, and stating to whom dedicated. 
 
 Pepys records this odd coincidence concerning the London churches 
 destroyed in the Great Fire : "Jan. 7th, 1667-8. It is observed, and 
 is true, in the late Fire of London, that the fire burned just as many 
 parish churches as there were hours from the beginning to the end of 
 the fire ; and next, that there were just as many churches left standing 
 in the rest of the city that was not burned, being, I think, thirteen in 
 all of each ; which is pretty to observe." 
 
 Eleven of the thirteen churches " belonging to convents" may be 
 traced. Thus, we find in Fitz-Stephen's time, Trinity Priory, Aldgate ; 
 St. Bartholomew's, West Smithfield (seepage 31) ; Bermondsey, South- 
 wark (see page 40); St. James's Priory, Clerkenwell; the Priory of 
 St. John the Baptist, Holy well, Shoreditch ; St. Katherine's Hospital, 
 by the Tower; St. Thomas Aeon, at the south-west corner of King- 
 street, Cheapside, upon the site of the birthplace of Thomas a Becket ; 
 St. John of Jerusalem, Clerkenwell ; the Temple ; St. Mary Overie's, 
 Southwark ; and St. Martin's-le-Grand, so named from its magnificence. 
 All, except Bermondsey, are shewn in the Sutherland View, 1543. 
 
 We shall first describe the two " Mother Churches" of London and 
 Westminster. 
 
 OLD SAINT PAUL'S. 
 
 The present Cathedral of St. Paul is the third church built to that 
 saint, very nearly upon the same site. The first church was founded 
 
CHURCHES: OLD SAINT PAUL'S. 85 
 
 about A.D. 610, by Ethelbert, King of Kent, but destroyed by fire in 
 1087. Its rebuilding was commenced by Bishop Maurice, whose suc- 
 cessor completed the enclosing walls, which extended as far as Pater- 
 noster-row and Ave-Maria-lane, on one side; and to Old Change, 
 Carter-lane, and Creed-lane, on the other. This second church, " Old 
 Saint Paul's," was built of Caen stone : it was greatly injured by fire in 
 1137 ; but a new steeple was finished in 1221, and in 1240 a choir. 
 
 The entire edifice was 690 feet long, and 130 feet broad ; and its tower 
 and spire rose 520 feet, or 116 feet higher than the spire of Salisbury 
 Cathedral; 64 feet loftier than that of Vienna; 50 feet higher than that 
 of Strasburg ; surpassing the height of the Great Pyramid of Egypt ; and 
 higher than the Monument placed upon the cross of the present Cathe- 
 dral. It had a bowl of copper-gilt, 9 feet in compass (large enough to 
 hold 10 bushels of corn), supporting a cross 15| feet high, surmounted 
 by an "eagle-cock of copper-gilt, 4 feet long." In 1314, the cross fell; 
 and the steeple, of wood covered with lead, being ruinous, was taken 
 down, and rebuilt with a new gilt ball. In 1444, it was nearly de- 
 stroyed by lightning, and not repaired till 1462. In 1561, the Cathedral 
 was partly burnt, but was restored by 1566, except the spire, which 
 was never rebuilt. The church was of the Latin-cross form, with a 
 Lady-chapel, and two other chapels, at the east end ; near which, on the 
 north side, stood Paul's or Powly 's Cross, with a pulpit whence sermons 
 were preached, the anathema of the Pope thundered forth, heresies 
 recanted, and sins atoned for : here, in 1483, Jane Shore, with a taper 
 in one hand, and arrayed in her " kertell onelye," did open penance : 
 " Before the worlde I suffered open shame, 
 Where people were as thicke as is the sand, 
 A penaunce took, -with taper in my hand." Higin's Coll. 1587. 
 This famous Cross was pulled down in 1643 by order of Parliament ; but its 
 site was long denoted by a tall elm-tree. At the eastern extremity of the 
 churchyard stood a square clochier, or bell-tower, with four bells, rung 
 to summon the citizens to folkmotes held here. These bells belonged 
 to St. Faith's under St. Paul's, a church so situated, but demolished 
 about 1256, when part of the crypt beneath the Cathedral choir was 
 granted to the parishioners for divine service : hence the popular story 
 in our time of there being a church under St. Paul's, and service in it 
 once a year. At the south-west corner was the parish-church of St. 
 Gregory. Fuller wittily describes Old St. Paul's as being" truly the 
 mother-church, having one babe in her body St. Faith's and another 
 in her arms St. Gregory's." 
 
 On the south side of the Cathedral, within a cloister, was a chapter- 
 house, in the pointed style : and on the north, on the walls of another 
 cloister, next to the charnel-house, was a " Dance of Death," or, as 
 Stow calls it, "Death leading all Estates, curiously painted upon board, 
 with the speeches of Death, and answer of every Estate," by John Lyd- 
 gate. It was painted at the cost of John Carpenter, Town Clerk of 
 London, temp. Henry V. and VI. 
 
 The interior of the church was divided throughout by two ranges of 
 clustered columns; it had a rich screen, and canopied doorways ; and a 
 large painted rose-window at the east end. The walls were sumptu- 
 ously adorned with pictures, shrines, and curiously wrought taber- 
 nacles ; gold and silver, rubies, emeralds, and pearls glittered in splen- 
 did profusion ; and upon the high altar were heaped countless stores 
 of gold and silver plate, and illuminated missals. The shrine of St. 
 Erkenwald (the fourth bishop), at the back of the high altar, had among 
 its jewels a sapphire, believed to cure diseases of the eye. The mere 
 enumeration of these treasures fills twenty-eight pages of Dugdale's 
 folio history of the Cathedral. 
 
86 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Camden relates, that on the anniversary of the Conversion of St. 
 Paul, January 25, held in the church, a fat buck was received with 
 great formality at the choir-entrance by the canons, in their sacerdotal 
 vestments, and with chaplets of flowers on their heads; whilst the 
 antlers of the buck were carried on a pike in procession round the 
 edifice, with horns blowing, &c. On the buck being offered at the 
 high altar, one shilling was paid by the Dean and Chapter. 
 
 Within was the tomb of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, with 
 the chivalric appointments of proper helmet and spear and target. 
 Here also were monuments to Sir Nicholas Bacon and Sir Christopher 
 Hatton, and tablets to Sir Philip Sydney and Sir Francis Walsingham; 
 the skeleton effigies of Colet, founder of St. Paul's School ; and of Dr. 
 Donne, the poet, erect in his stony shroud. Van Dyck was buried here, 
 but had not a monument. Here, too, in the nave, was the tomb of Sir 
 John Beauchamp, son of Guy Earl of Warwick : it was unaccountably 
 called " Duke Humphrey's Tomb," and the dinnerless persons who 
 lounged here were said to dine with Duke Humphrey. 
 
 But, perhaps, the finest monument was that of Henry de Lacy, Earl 
 of Lincoln, Edward I.'s able lieutenant in his Scottish expeditions ; his 
 portrait effigy lay upon an altar of beautiful decoration. 
 
 The state obsequies were a profitable privilege of the Cathedral : 
 the choir was hung with black and escutcheons ; and the herses were 
 magnificently adorned with banner-rolls and other insignia of vainglory. 
 
 The floor was laid out in walks : " the south alley for usurye and 
 poperye ; the north for simony and the horse-fair ; in the midst for all 
 kinds of bargains, meetings, brawlings, murthers, conspiracies, &c." 
 The middle aisle was called Paul's Walk, and was a lounge for idlers 
 and hunters after news, wits and gallants, cheats, usurers, and knights 
 of the post ; the font itself being used as a counter. Ben Jonson has 
 laid a scene of his Every Man out of his Humour in " the middle aisle 
 in Paule's;" Captain Bobadil is a " Paul's man ;" and Falstaff bought 
 Bardolph in Paul's. Greene, in his Theeves falling out, $., says : 
 " Walke in the middle of Paul's, and gentlemen's teeth walk not 
 faster at ordinaries, than there a whole day together about enquiry 
 after news." Bishop Earle, in his MicrocosmograpJiia, 1629, says: 
 " Paul's Walke is the Land's Epitome, or you may cal it the lesser He 
 of Great Brittaine. * * * The noyse in it is like that of Bees, in strange 
 hummings or buzze, mixt of walking, tongues, and feet ; it is a kind 
 of still roare, or loud whisper." It was a common thoroughfare for 
 porters and carriers, for ale, beer, bread, fish, flesh, fardels of stuff, 
 and " mules, horses, and other beasts ;" drunkards lay sleeping on the 
 benches at the choir-door ; within, dunghills were suffered to accumu- 
 late ; and in the choir people walked " with their hatts on their heddes." 
 Dekker,in his Gulls Hornbook,tells us that the church was profaned by 
 shops, not only of booksellers, but of other trades, such as "the semsters' 
 shops," and "the new tobacco office." He also mentions "Paul's Jacks," 
 automaton figures which struck the quarters on the clock. 
 
 The desecration of the exterior of the church was more abominable. 
 The chantry and other chapels were used for stones and lumber, as a 
 school and a glazier's workshop ; parts of the vaults were occupied by a 
 carpenter, and as a wine-cellar ; and the cloisters were let out to trunk- 
 makers, whose "knocking and noyse " r greatly disturbed the church- 
 service. Houses were built against the outer walls, in which closets 
 and window-ways were made : one was used " as a play-house," and 
 in another the owner " baked his bread and pies in an oven excavated 
 within a buttress ;" for a trifling fee, the bell-ringers allowed wights 
 to ascend the tower, halloo, and throw stones at the passengers be- 
 neath. 
 
CHURCHES: OLD SAINT PAUL'S. 
 
 87 
 
 On special saints' days it was customary for the choristers of the 
 Cathedral to ascend the spire to a great height, and there to chant 
 solemn prayers and anthems : the last observance of this custom was 
 in the reign of Queen Mary, when, " after even-song, the quere of 
 Paules began to go about the steeple singing with lightes, after the 
 olde custome." A similar tenure-custom is observed to this day at 
 Oxford, on the morning of May 1, on Magdalen College tower. 
 
 We read, too, of rope-dancing feats from the battlements of St. 
 Paul's exhibited before Edward VI., and in the reign of Queen Mary, 
 who, the day before her coronation, also witnessed a Dutchman stand- 
 ing upon the weathercock of the steeple, waving a five-yard streamer ! 
 Another marvel of this class was the ascent of Bankes, on his famous 
 horse Marocco, to the top of St. Paul's, in 1660. The first recorded 
 Lottery in England was drawn at the west door in 1569. 
 
 At length, the vast pile became dilapidated ; but no effectual step for 
 its repair was taken until 1633, when Inigo Jones commenced the great 
 work : to remove the desecration from the nave to the exterior, he built, 
 it is stated at the expense of Charles I., at the west end, a Corinthian 
 portico of eight columns, with a balustrade in panels, upon which he 
 intended to have placed ten statues : this portico was 200 feet long, 
 40 feet high, and 50 feet deep ; but its classic design, affixed to a Gothic 
 church, must be condemned, unless it be considered as an instalment of 
 a new cathedral. Laud was then Bishop of London. The sum col- 
 lected was 101,330?. ; and the repairs progressed until about one-third of 
 the money was expended, in 1642, when they were stopped by the con- 
 tests between Charles and his people : the funds in hand were seized to 
 pay the soldiers of the Commonwealth, and barracks made in the church. 
 
 Shortly after the Restoration, the repairs were resumed under Sir 
 John Denham; and "that miracle of a youth," Wren, drew plans for 
 the entire renovation. In the Great Fire of 1666, the church was re- 
 duced to a heap of ruins ; and books valued at 150,OOOZ., which had been 
 placed in St. Faith's (the crypt) for safety by the stationers of Pater- 
 noster-row, were entirely destroyed. After the Fire, Wren removed 
 part of the thick walls by gunpowder, but most he levelled with a 
 battering-ram: some of the stone was used to build parish churches, 
 and some to pave the neighbouring streets ; and thus was prepared the 
 ground for the present Cathedral. 
 
 Relative positions of the Old and New Cathedrals. 
 
88 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDBAL. 
 
 Nearly eight years elapsed after the Great Fire ere the ruins of 
 the old Cathedral were cleared from the site. Meanwhile, Wren was 
 instructed " to contrive a fabric of moderate bulk, but of good propor- 
 tion ; a convenient quire, with a vestibule and porticoes, and a dome 
 conspicuous above the houses." A design was accordingly prepared, 
 octagonal in plan, with a central dome and cupolettas, and affording a 
 vast number of picturesque combinations, as shewn in the model, pre- 
 served to this day. This was rejected ; and the surveyor next devised 
 " a cathedral form, so altered as to reconcile, as near as possible, the 
 Gothic to a better manner of architecture;" which being approved, 
 Charles II. issued his warrant for commencing the works May 1, 1675. 
 In digging the foundation, a vast cemetery was discovered, in which 
 Britons, Romans, and Saxons had been successively buried ; and on 
 digging deeper, marine shells were found, thus- proving that the sea 
 once flowed over the site of the present Cathedral. Wren did not, how- 
 ever, find any remains to support the tradition of a Roman temple to 
 Diana having once occupied this spot. 
 
 The first stone of the new church was laid June 21, 1675, by the 
 architect and his lodge of Freemasons; and the trowel and mallet then 
 used are preserved in the Lodge of Antiquity, of which Wren was 
 master. In commencing the works, he accidentally set out the di- 
 mensions of the dome upon a piece of a gravestone inscribed Resurgam 
 (I shall rise again) ; which propitious circumstance is commemorated 
 in a Phcenix rising from the flames, with the motto Resurgam, sculp- 
 tured by Gibber in the pediment over the southern portico. In 1678 
 Wren set out the piers and pendentives of the dome. By 1685, the 
 walls of the choir and its side aisles, and the north and south semi- 
 circular* porticoes, were finished ; the piers of the dome were also 
 brought up to the same height. On Dec. 2, 1697, the choir was opened 
 on the day of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, when Bishop 
 Burnet preached before King William. On Feb. 1, 1699, the Morning 
 Prayer Chapel, at the north-west angle, was opened ; and in 1710 the 
 son of the architect laid the last stone the highest slab on the top of 
 the lantern. Thus, the whole edifice was finished in thirty-five years ; 
 under one architect, Sir Christopher Wren ; one master-mason, Mr. 
 Thomas Strong ; and while one bishop, Dr. Henry Compton, occupied 
 the see. For his services, Wren obtained, with difficulty, 200?. per 
 annum! "and for this," said the Duchess of Marlborough, "he was 
 content to be dragged up in a basket three or four times a week." The 
 fund raised for the rebuilding amounted, in ten years, to 216,000?.; 
 a new duty laid on coals for this purpose produced 5000?. a-year ; and 
 the King contributed 10,000?. annually. 
 
 The Cathedral remained almost untouched until the reign of George 
 III., when Mylne was appointed its conservating architect ; an office 
 since filled by C. R. Cockerel!, R.A., who, in 1821-2, renewed the 
 copper ball and cross* the original ball being preserved at the Colos- 
 seum, in the Regent's Park. In 1841, the exterior of the dome was 
 
 * It was during these repairs that Mr. Hornor, having passed the summer of 
 1820, in the lantern above the dome, in executing a general view of the metro- 
 polis, next erected, at several feet above the highest portion of the present cross, 
 an observatory, in which he drew a new series of sketches on 280 sheets of draw- 
 ing-paper a surface of 1680 square feet. From these sketches was painted the 
 great panoramic view of London and the suburbs, first exhibited at the Colosseum, 
 Regent's Park, in 1829. In 1848, there was put up from the Golden Gallery to 
 the summit of the cross a scaffold supporting an observatory, as the main station 
 for a new trigonometrical survey of the metropolis ; and between 3000 and 4000 
 observations were taken here within three months. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 89 
 
 repaired by the workmen resting upon a shifting iron frame. The 
 golden gallery railing has since been regilt. 
 
 Exterior. St. Paul's occupies very nearly the site of the old Cathe- 
 dral, in the centre and most elevated part of the City ; though its highest 
 point, the cross, is 36 feet lower than the Castle Tavern, on Hampstead 
 Heath. The plan of St. Paul's is a Latin cross, and bears a general 
 resemblance to that of St. Peter's. Its length, from the east to the 
 west wall, is 500 feet ; north to south, 250 feet ; width, 125 feet, except 
 at the western end, where two towers, and chapels beyond, make this, 
 the principal front, facing Ludgate Hill, about 180 feet in width. The 
 chapels are, the Morning Prayer, north ; and the Consistory Court, south. 
 
 The exterior generally is 
 of two orders, 100 feet in 
 height the iipper Compo- 
 site, and the lower Corinthi- 
 an ; and the surface of the 
 church is Portlan d stone, rus- 
 ticated or grooved through- 
 out. At the east end is a se- 
 micircular recess, containing 
 the altar. At the west end, 
 a noble flight of steps ascends 
 to a double portico of coupled 
 columns, twelvein the lower, 
 Corinthian ; and eight in the 
 upper, Composite ; terminat - 
 ed by a pediment, in the tym- 
 panum of which (6-i feet long 
 and 17 feet high) is the con- 
 version of St. Paul, sculptur- 
 ed in pretty high relief by 
 Bird ; on the apex is a colos- 
 sal figure of St. Paul, and on 
 the right and left, St. Peter 
 and St. James. Beneath the 
 lower portico are the doors, 
 and above them a sculptured 
 group, in white marble, of 
 St. Paul preaching to the 
 Bereans. This double porti- 
 co has been much censured : 
 Wren pleaded that he could 
 not obtain stone of sufficient 
 height for the shafts of one 
 grand portico; "but," says 
 Mr. Gwilt, "it would have 
 been far better to have had , 
 
 the columns in manv nieces Ground Plan of st - Paul s Cathedral. A. Nave, 
 mns in many pieces, B . Grea t Dome. C. North Transept. D. South 
 and even with verticaljomts, Transept. E. Choir. 
 than to have placed one por- 
 tico above another." At the extremities of this front rise, 220 feet, two 
 campanile towers, terminating in open lanterns, " covered with domes 
 formed by curves of contrary flexure, and not very purely composed, 
 though, perhaps, in character with the general faade." (Gwilt.} 
 Each dome has a gilt pine-apple at the apex : the south tower con- 
 tains the clock, and the north is a belfry ; and in the west faces are 
 statues of the four Evangelists. At the northern and southern ends 
 of the transepts, the lower order, Corinthian, is continued into porticoes 
 
90 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of six fluted columns, standing, in plan, on the segment of a circle, and 
 crowned with a semi-dome. In the upper order are two pediments, 
 the south sculptured with the Phoenix, and the north with the royal 
 arms and regalia ; and on each side are five statues of the Apostles. 
 The main building is surmounted with a balustrade, not in Wren's de- 
 sign, the obtrusion of which by the Commissioners caused the architect 
 to say : " I never designed a balustrade : ladies think nothing well with- 
 out an edging." 
 
 The Cathedral was scientifically secured from lightning, according to the 
 suggestion of the Royal Society, in 1769. The seven iron scrolls supporting the 
 ball and cross are connected with other rods (used merely as conductors), which 
 unite them with several large bars descending obliquely to the stone-work of the 
 lantern, and connected by an iron ring with four other iron bars to the lead cover- 
 ing of the great cupola, a distance of forty-eight feet ; thence the communication 
 is continued by the rain-water pipes to the lead-covered roof, and thence by 
 lead water-pipes which pass into the earth; thus completing the entire communi- 
 cation from the cross to the ground, partly through iron and partly through lead. 
 On the clock-tower a bar of iron connects the pine-apple at the top with the iron 
 staircase, and thence with the lead on the roof of the church. The bell-tower is 
 similarly protected. By these means the metal used in the building is made 
 available as conductors ; the metal employed merely for that purpose being ex- 
 ceedingly small in quantity. (Times, Sept. 8, 1842, abridged.) 
 
 Construction. The following details are by an eminent architect : 
 The entrances from the transepts lead into vestibules, each communicating 
 with the centre, and its aisles formed between two massive piers and the walls at 
 the intersections of the transepts with the choir and nave. The eight piers are 
 joined by arches springing from one to the other, so as to form an octagon at their 
 springing points ; and the angles between the arches, instead of rising vertically, 
 sail over as they rise and form pendentives, which lead, at their top, into a circle 
 on the plan. Above this a wall rises in the form of a truncated cone, which, at 
 the height of 168 feet from the pavement, terminates in a horizontal cornice, from 
 which the interior dome springs. Its diameter is 100 feet, and it is 60 feet in 
 height, in the form of a paraboloid. Its thickness is 18 inches, and it is con- 
 structed of brickwork. From the haunches of this dome, 200 feet above the 
 pavement of the church, another cone of brickwork commences, 85 feet high, and 
 
 94 feet diameter at the bottom. This cone is pierced with apertures, as well for 
 the purpose of diminishing its weight as for distributing light between it and the 
 outer dome. At the top it is gathered into a dome, in the form of a hyperboloid, 
 pierced near the vertex with an aperture 12 feet in diameter. The top of this 
 cone is 285 feet from the pavement, and carries a lantern 55 feet high, terminat- 
 ing in a dome, whereon a ball and (aveline) cross is raised. The last-named cone 
 is provided with corbels, sufficient in number to receive the hammer-beams of the 
 external dome, which is of oak, and its base 220 feet from the pavement, its 
 summit being level with the top of the cone. In form it is nearly hemispherical, 
 and generated by radii 57 feet in length, whose centres are in a horizontal dia- 
 meter, passing through its base. The cone and the interior dome are restrained 
 in their lateral thrust on the supports by four tiers of strong iron chains (weighing 
 
 95 cwt. 3 qrs. 23 Ibs.), placed in grooves prepared for their reception, and run with 
 lead. The lowest of these is inserted in the masonry round their common base, 
 and the other three at different heights on the exterior of the cone. Externally, 
 the intervals of the columns and pilasters are occupied by windows and niches, 
 with horizontal and semicircular heads, and crowned with pediments. 
 
 Over the intersection of the nave and transepts for the external work, and for 
 a height of 25 feet above the roof of the church, a cylindrical wall rises, whose 
 diameter is 146 feet. Between it and the lower conical wall is a space, but at 
 intervals they are connected by cross walls. This cylinder is quite plain, but 
 perforated by two courses of rectangular apertures. On it stands a peristyle of 
 thirty columns of the Corinthian order, 40 feet high, including bases and capitals, 
 with a plain entablature crowned by a balustrade. In this peristyle, every fourth 
 intercolumniation is filled up solid, with a niche, and connexion is provided be- 
 tween it and the wall of the lower cone. Vertically over the base of that cone, 
 above the peristyle, rises another cylindrical wall, appearing above the balustrade. 
 It is ornamented with pilasters, between which are two tiers of rectangular win- 
 dows. From this wall, the external dome springs. The lantern receives no sup- 
 port from it. It is merely ornamental, differing entirely in that respect from the 
 dome of St. Peter's. (Gwilt's Encyclopedia of Architecture.) Externally the 
 
CHURCHES: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 91 
 
 dome is of wood, covered with lead ; at its summit is The Golden Gallery, (with 
 gilt railing,) where the lantern commences. 
 
 The interior of the nave and choir are each designed with three arches longi- 
 tudinally springing from piers, strengthened, as well as decorated, on their inner 
 faces by an entablature, whose cornice reigns throughout the nave and church. 
 Above this entablature, and breaking with it over each pilaster, is a tall attic from 
 projections, on which spring semicircular arches which are formed into arcs 
 doubleaux. Between the last, pendentives are formed, terminated by horizontal 
 cornices. Small cupolas, of less height than their semi-diameter, are formed 
 above these cornices. In the upright plane space on the walls above the main 
 arches of the nave, choir, and transepts, a clerestory is obtained over the attic 
 order, whose form is generated by the rising of the pendentives. (Gwilt.) 
 
 Over the entrance to the Choir is a copy of the Latin epitaph on 
 Wren, ending with " Lector, si monumentum requiris, circumspice," 
 (Reader, if you would behold his monument, look around you). 
 
 The screen of wrought iron which separates the Choir from the 
 Nave is very elegant. Above this is placed the organ, built by Bernard 
 Schmydt, in 1694, at a cost of 2000J. 
 
 The Choir contains some of the finest carvings in the world, by Gib- 
 bons : as, the episcopal throne ; the bishop's ordinary seat, with a mitre 
 and pelican ; the lord-mayor's, with the mace and other insignia ; and 
 the dean's stall, with fruit and flowers : for the entire work Gibbons 
 received 1333Z. 7*. 5d. (see CARVINGS, p. 66). The lectern is a large 
 brass-gilt eagle. The decoration of the east end is poor and mean, and 
 was intended by Wren only to serve until he had provided for it a mag- 
 nificent altar of Greek marbles, with a stately canopy. 
 
 The side aisles, or oratories, were added to the Nave, as Wren de- 
 signed it, by the Duke of York, afterwards James II., who " was willing 
 to have them ready for the Popish service, when there should be occa- 
 sion." Wren remonstrated with tears, but in vain. 
 
 The walls and massive piers are bare of ornament ; though, in 1773, 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, P. R.A., and five of his fellow Academicians, 
 offered to furnish, gratis, a series of scripture pictures to be placed in 
 the Cathedral ; but the proposition was rejected. 
 
 Immediately under the centre of the dome, in the marble pavement, 
 is a brass plate, denoting the position of Nelson's remains in the crypt, 
 
 The Monuments (exceeding forty) have been for the most part voted 
 by Parliament in honour of naval and military officers, though there are 
 a few also to authors and artists, and philanthropists. But, in general, 
 while civil eminence has been commemorated in Westminster Abbey, 
 St. Paul's has been made a Pantheon for our heroes. At the entrance 
 of the Choir is a colossal statue of John Howard, with an inscription 
 by Samuel Whitbread, this being the first monument erected in the 
 church (1796) ; at a corresponding point is a colossal statue of Dr. John- 
 son, the inscription by Dr. Parr: both statues are by Bacon, R.A. : 
 Howard, with his keys, is often mistaken for St. Peter ; and Johnson, 
 with his scroll, for St. Paul. At opposite piers are statues of Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, by Flaxman, R.A., and Sir William Jones, by Bacon, R.A. 
 Under the great choir arch is a monument to Lord Nelson, by Flaxman ; 
 the statue is characteristic, but the figures about the pedestal are ab- 
 surd. Opposite is a monument to Lord Cornwallis, by Rossi, R.A. : 
 the Indian river-gods are most admired. In the south transept are mo- 
 numents to Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Lord Collingwood, by Sir R. 
 Westmacott, R.A., and to Lord Howe, by Flaxman ; statue of Elliot, 
 Lord Heathfield, by Rossi, R.A. ; monument to Sir John Moore, by 
 Bacon, R.A. ; statue of Sir W. Hoste, by Campbell; and Major- General 
 Gillespie, by Chantrey, R.A. In the north transept, the principal are 
 monuments to Lord Rodney and to Captains Mosse and Rivers, by 
 Rossi, R.A.; Capt. Westcott, by Banks, R.A.; Gen. Ponsonby, a grace- 
 
92 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ful composition, by Baily, R. A. ; Major-Gen. A. Gore and J. B. Skerrett, 
 by Chantrey ; statue of Earl St. Vincent, by Baily, R. A. ; Gen. Picton, 
 who fell at Waterloo, by Gahagan ; Admiral Duncan, an elegant figure, 
 by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A. ; and Major-Gen. Dundas, by Bacon, R. A. 
 In the south aisle of the nave is a monument to Dr. Middleton, the 
 first Protestant Bishop of India, by Lough ; and in the south aisle of 
 the choir is a kneeling figure of Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A. Here 
 also are statues of Sir Astley Cooper, by Baily, R.A., and Dr. Babing- 
 ton, by Behnes. Two of the finest and most touching works here are 
 Chantrey 's battle-piece monuments to Colonel Cadogan, mortally 
 wounded at the battle of Vittoria; and Major-General Bowes, slain at 
 the head of his men at the storming of Salamanca : these are poetic 
 pictures of carnage closing in victory. 
 
 The Crypt is now used only as a place of interment. In the south 
 aisle is the grave of Sir Christopher Wren, covered by a flat stone, the 
 English inscription upon which merely states that he died in 1723, aged 
 91 : hung on the adjoining wall is a tablet bearing the Latin epitaph, 
 also placed over the choir entrance. Near Wren's remains are the 
 
 ?-aves of our great painters. Hence, " if Westminster Abbey has its 
 oets' Corner, so has St. Paul's its Painters' Corner. Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds's statue, by Flaxman, is here, and Reynolds himself lies 
 buried here ; and Barry, and Opie, and Lawrence are around him ; 
 and, above all, the ashes of the great Van Dyck are in the earth under 
 the Cathedral." (C. R. Leslie, R.A.} Here also are the altar-tombs of 
 Robert Mylne, the architect, and John Rennie, the engineer. In the 
 middle of the crypt, upon an altar-tomb, is Nelson's coffin, within a 
 black marble sarcophagus made by order of Cardinal Wolsey, but left 
 unused in the tomb-house adjoining St. George's Chapel, Windsor. It is 
 surmounted with a viscount's coronet upon a cushion ; on the pedestal 
 is inscribed, "Horatio Viscount Nelson." The coffin, made from part 
 of the mainmast of the ship L' Orient, which blew up at the battle of 
 the Nile, was presented to Nelson by his friend Ben Hallowell, captain 
 of the Swiftsure. It was deposited* here January 9, 1806 (see ADMI- 
 RALTY, page 2). Nelson's flag was to have been placed with the coffin ; 
 but just as it was about to be lowered, the sailors who had borne it, 
 moved by one impulse, rent it in pieces, each keeping a fragment. 
 Lord Colliugwood, as he requested, lies near Nelson, beneath a plain 
 altar-tomb ; and opposite lies Lord Northesk, distinguished in the vic- 
 tory of Trafalgar. Here too are the graves of Dr. Boyce, next to 
 Purcell, perhaps, the greatest English musician ; and George Dance, 
 the architect, and the last survivor of the original forty of the Royal 
 Academy. In a dark recess of the eastern wall are some remains of the 
 monuments of Old St. Paul's (see page 86). 
 
 The ascent to the Whispering Gallery is by 260 steps ; to the outer, 
 or highest Golden Gallery, 560 steps ; and to the Ball, 616 steps. 
 
 The Library, in the gallery over the southern aisle, was formed by 
 Bishop Compton, whose portrait it contains. Here are about 7000 
 volumes, besides some manuscripts belonging to Old St. Paul's. The 
 room has some fine brackets, and pilasters with flowers, exquisitely 
 carved by Gibbons ; and the floor consists of 2300 pieces of oak, par- 
 quetted, or inlaid without nails or pegs. At the end of this gallery 
 is a Geometrical Staircase, of 110 steps, built by Wren, for private 
 access to the Library. In crossing thence to the northern gallery, 
 a fine view is gained of the entire vista of the Cathedral from west 
 to east. You then reach the Model-Room, where are Wren's first 
 design for St. Paul's, and some of the tattered flags formerly suspended 
 beneath the dome. Returning to the southern gallery, a staircase 
 leads to the south-western campanile tower, where is the Clock-Room. 
 
93 
 
 The Clock is remarkable for the magnitude of its wheels and fine- 
 ness of works, and cost 300Z. It was made by Langley Bradley in 
 1708 : it has two dial-plates, one south, the other west ; each is 51 
 feet in circumference, and the hour-numerals are 2 feet 2 inches in 
 height. The minute-hand's are 9 feet 8 inches long, and weigh 75 Ibs. 
 each ; and the hour-hands are 5 feet 9 inches long, and weigh 44 Ibs. 
 each. The pendulum is 16 feet long, and the bob weighs 180 Ibs. ; yet 
 it is suspended by a spring no thicker than a shilling : its beat is 2 se- 
 conds, a dead beat, 30 to a minute instead of 60. 
 
 The Clock, "going eight days," strikes the hour on the Great Bell,* 
 suspended about 40 feet from the floor : the hammer lies on the outside 
 brim of the bell ; it has a large head, weighs 1451bs., is drawn by a 
 wire at the back part of the clockwork, and falls again by its own 
 weight upon the bell. The clapper weighs ISOlbs. The hour struck by 
 this clock has been heard, in the silence of midnight, on the terrace of 
 "Windsor Castle. (See page 39.) Below the Great Bell are two smaller 
 bells, on which the clock strikes the quarters : the larger of these weighs 
 24cwt. 2qrs. 25lbs ; the smaller, 12cwt. 2qrs. 91bs. The northern tower 
 contains the bell tolled for prayers. 
 
 The Whispering Gallery is reached by returning towards the dome, 
 and again ascending. Here a low whisper, uttered on one side, may 
 be distinctly heard at the opposite side, of the gallery. The phenomenon 
 is thus explained by Dr. Paris : 
 
 " M shews the situation of the mouth of the 
 speaker, and E that of the ear of the hearer. Now, 
 since sound radiates in all directions, a part of it 
 will proceed directly from M to E, while other rays 
 of it will proceed from M to u, and from M to z, &c. ; 
 but the ray that impinges upon u will be reflected 
 to E, while that which first touches z will be reflect- 
 ed to y and from thence to E ; and so of all interme- 
 diate rays, which are omitted in the figure to avoid 
 confusion. It is evident, therefore, that the sound 
 at E will be much stronger than if it had proceeded 
 immediately from M without the assistance of the 
 dome; for, in that case, the rays at z and u would 
 have proceeded in straight lines, and consequently could never have arrived at the 
 point E." Philosophy in Sport made Science in Earnest, p. 310. 
 
 The Inner Dome (which Wren intended to have lined with mosaic) 
 is plastered on the under side ; and painted, by Sir James Thornhill, 
 with events in the life of St. Paul : 1. His Conversion ; 2. The Punish- 
 ment of Elymas the Sorcerer ; 3. Cure of the Cripple at Lystra; 4. 
 Conversion of the Gaoler ; 5. Paul preaching at Athens ; 6. Burning 
 of the Books at Ephesus ; 7. Paul before Agrippa; 8. Shipwreck on 
 the Island of Melita. For these paintings Thornhill only received 40s. 
 per square yard : they are fast; decaying from damp. Although Mr. 
 Parris, the painter, invented an apparatus by which they could be re- 
 stored at a small expense, the Cathedral funds will not " afford it." 
 
 The paintings are best seen from the Whispering Gallery, by the 
 flood of light which pours from the lantern through the opening at the 
 crown of the dome. When looking down into the Church, men seem 
 but as children, and the immensity of the structure is best felt. From 
 the Whispering Gallery, we ascend to 
 
 The Stone Gallery, outside the base of the dome, where the gigantic 
 
 * The new Great Tom of Lincoln, cast in 1834, is 6 cwt. heavier than the 
 Great Bell of St. Paul's. Its tone is generally considered to be about the same 
 as that of St. Paul's, but sweeter and softer. Mr. E. B. Denison, however, " thinks 
 St. Paul's far the best of the four large bells of England, though it is the smallest 
 of them, being about 5 tons; while York is 12, Lincoln 5, and Oxford 7^, which 
 last is a remarkably bad bell." Treatise on Clock and Watch Making ( Weale, 1850). 
 
94 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 height of the figures (11 feet) on the western pediment, and the out- 
 lines of the campanile towers are very striking. There is a second outer 
 gallery, still below the base of the dome ; and thence you ascend to 
 
 The Outer Golden Gallery, at the summit of the dome ; the Inner 
 Golden Gallery being at the base of the lantern. Through this the 
 ascent is by ladders, to the small dome immediately below the inverted 
 consoles which support 
 
 The Ball and Cross ; and ascending through the iron-work in the 
 centre, we look into the dark Ball. It is stated to weigh 56001bs.; thence 
 to the Cross is 30 feet, the latter weighing 33601bs. 
 
 The Vieivfrom the Outer Golden Gallery is very minute : the occu- 
 pants of the streets below "appear like mice;" London seems little 
 else than a dense mass of housetops, chimneys, and spires ; the Thames 
 being conspicuous from its glittering surface, but the bridges appear- 
 ing as dark lines across at intervals. Here, and at the higher points, in 
 clear weather, the metropolis is seen as in a map, with the country 20 
 miles round. The north division of London rises gently from the 
 Thames, to Hampstead and Highgate. On the east and west are fer- 
 tile plains extending at least 20 miles, and watered by the Thames. 
 On the south, the view is bounded by the high grounds of Richmond, 
 Wimbledon, Epsom, Norwood, and Blackheath ; terminating in the 
 horizon by Leith Hill, Box Hill, and the Reigate and Wrotham hills. 
 Shooter's Hill is conspicuous eastward, and, in a more easterly direc- 
 tion, parts of Epping Forest and other wooded uplands of Essex. 
 
 Mr. Hornor describes the strange scene from this lofty summit at 
 three o'clock in the morning as very impressive ; for here he frequently 
 beheld " the Forest of London" without any indication of animated ex- 
 istence. It was interesting to mark the gradual symptoms of returning 
 life, until the rising sun vivified the whole into activity, bustle, and 
 business. In high winds, the creaking and whistling of the scaffolding 
 resembled those of a ship labouring in a storm ; and once Mr. Hornor^ 
 observatory was torn from its fastenings, and turned partly over the 
 edge of the platform.* 
 
 The Establishment of the Cathedral consists of the Dean ; the pre- 
 centor, or chanter ; the chancellor ; the treasurer ; the five arch- 
 deacons of London, Middlesex, Essex, Colchester, and St. Alban's ; 
 thirty major canons, or prebendaries, four of whom are resident ; twelve 
 minor canons ; and six vicars choral, besides the children of the choir. 
 One of the vicars choral officiates as organist, and three of the minor 
 canons hold the places of sub-dean, librarian, and succentor, or under- 
 precentor. 
 
 Two of the brightest wits of their day, Sydney Smith (Peter Plymley'), 
 d. 1845, and R. H. Barham (Thomas Ingoldsby), d. 1845, were at the 
 same period Canons of St. Paul's. In 1849, the Rev. H. H. Milman (the 
 poet) was appointed Dean, an office hitherto held by the Bishop of 
 Llandaff for the time being. 
 
 The lord-mayor's chaplain is the preacher on all state holidays ; viz. 
 30th January, 29th May, 20th June, and 5th November, on the first 
 Sunday in term, and the anniversary of the Great Fire of 1666. The 
 Paul's Cross sermons are also still preached. Sermons are preached by 
 the Dean and canons-residentiary on Sunday afternoons and holidays, 
 and every Wednesday and Friday during Lent. 
 
 * An accident somewhat more perilous befel Mr. Gwyn, when measuring 
 the top of the dome for a section of the Cathedral. While intent on his work 
 his foot slipped, and he slid down the convex surface of the dome until his de- 
 scent was fortunately obstructed by a small projecting piece of the lead. He thus 
 remained until released from the impending danger by one of his assistants, who 
 providentially discovered his awful situation. Mr, Hornor 'a Narrative. 
 
CHURCHES I ST. PAUL S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 The choral service is performed at a quarter before ten in the morn- 
 ing, and at a quarter past three in the afternoon. Divine service is 
 likewise held in the Morning Prayer Chapel every week-day morning 
 at eight o'clock. 
 
 The Anniversary Festival of the Sons of the Clergy is celebrated in 
 the Cathedral about the middle of May ; when the service is preceded by 
 a performance of sacred music, selected from Handel, Boyce, Atwood, 
 and others ; aided by the choirs of St. Paul's, Westminster Abbey, and the 
 Chapel Royal. The Anniversary of the Charity Schools is customarily 
 held on the first Thursday in June ; when 8000 of the charity-school 
 children are generally present, upon an amphitheatre of seats erected 
 beneath the great dome, and the effect of their united " songs of 
 praise" is very impressive. Both these festivals are usually graced by 
 the presence of royalty. 
 
 Admission. Visitors are admitted to view the building daily, except 
 during the time of divine service. The following are the charges : 
 
 s. d. 
 
 To view the Monuments and body of the Church . . . .02 
 To the Whispering Galleries and the two outside Galleries . .06 
 
 To the Ball 16 
 
 To the Library, Great Bell, Geometrical Staircase, and Model Room 1 
 
 Clock 02 
 
 Crypt, or Vaults 10 
 
 Or 4s. 4d. each person. 
 The general entrance is at the great North Door, opposite Canon-alley. 
 
 The admission-fee originated in " the Stairs-foot Money," fixed by 
 Jennings, the carpenter, in 1707 ; the proceeds of which were applied 
 to the relief of those men to whom accidents happened during the pro- 
 gress of the works. In 1849, the sum received from visitors to the body 
 of the Cathedral, at 2d. each, was 430/. 3s. 3d., which was divided among 
 the four vergers. 
 
 Nearly opposite the North Door in St. Paul's Churchyard is the 
 Convocation or Chapter House of the Cathedral, where a kind of 
 clerical parliament is summoned with every new Imperial Parlia- 
 ment. 
 
 The State processions to St. Paul's have been very imposing. Queen 
 Anne came yearly to return thanks for the brilliant successes of Marl- 
 borough, who carried the sword of state before Her Majesty ; as did 
 Wellington before the Prince Regent, on the day of thanksgiving for 
 
 Eeace in 1814. George III. visited St. Paul's, to return public thanks 
 jr his recovery from derangement, in 1789; and in 1797, in thanks- 
 giving for naval victories. The last procession of this kind was on 
 Nov. 29, 1820, when Queen Caroline went to St. Paul's, in thanks- 
 giving for her deliverance from the Bill of Pains and Penalties. 
 
 Churchyard. The enclosed ground-plot of the Cathedral is 2 acres 
 16 perches 70 feet. In the area before the west front, marking the site 
 of St. Gregory's Church, is the statue of Queen Anne, with figures of 
 Britain, France, Ireland, and America, at the corners of the pedestal. 
 Sir Samuel Garth wrote some bitter lines upon this group, where 
 
 " France above with downcast eyes is seen, 
 The sad attendant of so good a queen." 
 
 Her Majesty's nose was struck off by a lunatic, about a century ago, 
 and has but lately been repaired. The Churchyard is enclosed with a 
 dwarf stone wall, on which is a noble iron balustrade, 5 feet 6 inches 
 high; there are in it seven ornamental gates, which, with the 2500 
 rails, weigh 200 tons Sllbs. They were cast at Gloucester Furnace, 
 Lamberhurst, Kent ; they cost 6d. per pound, and with other charges, 
 amounted to 11,2021. 0*. Qd. ; the cost of the Church was 736,752?. 2*. 3d.-, 
 
96 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in all, 7-47,954?. 2s. 9d.,* equal to 1,222,4377. present money. About 
 nine-tenths of this sum were raised by a tax on coals received into the 
 port of London. It has more than once been proposed to remove the 
 wall and balustrade, or a portion of them. 
 
 Annexed is a recapitulation of the main dimensions : 
 
 ft. in. 
 Circumference of the Cathedral 2292 
 
 Height of Centre, exclusive of Dome 
 Height of Nave, Choir, and Transepts 
 Height from floor of Crypt to top of Cross 
 Height from Nave pavement to top of Cross 
 Height of Western Towers 
 Height of Western Front .... 
 Diameter of Interior Dome 
 
 Height of Dome 
 
 Height of Dome from ground-line 
 Diameter of opening at top of Dome 
 
 210 
 
 100 
 
 404 
 
 360 
 
 220 
 
 138 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 215 
 
 14 10| 
 
 Height of Lantern Gallery 274 
 
 Diameter of opening at top of Upper Dome . . 80 
 
 The following are the comparative dimensions of St. Paul's, London, 
 and St. Peter's at Rome : 
 
 E.toW. West end, Ditto, Tran- Height 
 within. in. out. sept. to top. 
 
 St. Paul's . 500 100 138 223 360 English feet. 
 St. Peter's . 669 226 395 442 432 
 
 St. Peter's occupies an area of . . 227,069 superficial feet. 
 
 St. Paul's 84,025 
 
 St. Mary's, at Florence .... 84,802 ,, 
 
 " For external elegance," says Mr. Gwilt, " we know no church in 
 Europe which exhibits a cupola comparable with that of St. Paul's; 
 though in its connexion with the church by an order higher than that 
 below it, there is a violation of the laws of the art. While, notwith- 
 standing its inferior dimensions (it would stand within St. Peter's), the 
 external appearance of St. Paul's has been preferred by many to that 
 of St. Peter's, it is admitted by all that the interior of the English 
 cathedral will bear no comparison with that of the Roman. The up- 
 ward view of the dome of St. Paul's, however, conveys an impression 
 of extraordinary magnificence; though not so elevated as St. Peter's, 
 it is still very lofty : the form of the concave, which approaches con- 
 siderably nearer to that of a circle the height being equal to a dia- 
 meter and a half, while in St. Peter's it is equal to two diameters 
 has also been considered more beautiful than that of its rival." 
 As a whole, however, the effect is truly magnificent, surrounded as the 
 vast edifice is by buildings in every direction : viewed from Cheapside, 
 it presents an imposing mass, and the western front, with its campanili 
 and the majestic dome, is a stupendous termination to the vista of 
 Ludgate-hill ; whilst from Blackfriars Bridge, the graceful dome ap- 
 pears in impressive contrast with the less harmonious body of the 
 building. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY 
 
 Occupies the site of a Church " to the honour of God and St. Peter," 
 commenced by Sebert, about A.D. 616, on Thorney Island, " overgrown 
 with thorns, and environed with water." This Church was not, how- 
 ever, completed until about 360 years after, by King Edgar, when it was 
 named from being the " Minster West " of St. Paul's. It was destroyed 
 by the Danes, but wholly rebuilt circ. 1050, by the pious King Edward 
 the Confessor, who gave" to its treasury rich vestments, a golden crown 
 
 * In more than one of the Guide-books the cost of the Cathedral is stated at 
 a million and a half of money; which error probably arose from its first perpe- 
 trator mistaking 500,000 for a million. 
 
CHUECHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 97 
 
 and sceptres, a dalmatic, embroidered pall, a pair of spurs, &c., to be 
 used on the day of the Sovereign's coronation. This injunction has been 
 observed through a lapse of nearly eight centuries ; most of these in- 
 signia having been preserved ; and our sovereigns, from Harold and Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror to Queen Victoria, have been crowned here. 
 
 King Edward was buried in his new Church, which the monarchs of 
 the next 160 years beautified and endowed with rich gifts and legacies. 
 Henry III., in pious veneration for the memory of the Confessor, began 
 to rebuild the Church on the same spot, 16 May, 1220 : hardly was it 
 completed, when it was almost wholly destroyed by fire ; but it was re- 
 stored in the reigns of Edward I. and II. Nicholas Litlington, Abbot 
 in the reign of Edward III., added several abbatial buildings, including 
 the Hall ;'a great chamber called "the Jerusalem ;"the west and south 
 sides of the Great Cloister ; and the Granary. In 1502, Henry VII. 
 pulled down the Chapel of the Virgin, at the east end, and replaced it 
 with the beautiful Chapel now called by his name. 
 
 The dedication of the Church to St. Peter, (the tutelar saint of fisher- 
 men,) led to their offerings of salmon upon the high altar ; the donor on 
 such occasions having the privilege of sitting at the convent-table to 
 dinner, and demanding ale and bread from the cellarer. 
 
 " The Abbey Church," says Mr. Bardwell, "formerly arose a magnificent apex 
 to a royal palace, surrounded by its own greater and lesser sanctuaries and al- 
 monries : its bell-towers (the principal one 72 feet 6 inches square, with walls 
 20 feet thick), chapels, prisons, gatehouses, boundary-walls, and a train of other 
 buildings, of which we can, at the present day, scarcely form an idea. In addi- 
 tion to all the land around it, extending from the Thames to Oxford-street, and 
 from Vauxhall-Bridge road to the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand, the Abbey 
 possessed 97 towns and villages, 17 hamlets, and 216 manors! Its officers fed 
 hundreds of persons daily ; and one of its priests (not the Abbot) entertained at 
 his ' pavilion in Tothill' the King and Queen, with so large a party, that seven 
 hundred dishes did not suffice for the first table; and the Abbey butler, in the 
 reign of Edward III., rebuilt, at his own private expense, the stately gatehouse 
 which gave entrance to Tothill-street, and a portion of the wall of which remains 
 to this day." Brief Account of Ancient and Modern Westminster, 1839. 
 
 At the Dissolution, the Abbey was resigned to Henry VIII. by Ab- 
 bot Benson ; and the King ordered the Church to be governed by a 
 Dean and Prebendaries, making Benson the Dean. In 1541, the Church 
 was turned into an Episcopal See, having Middlesex for its diocese ; but 
 was soon again placed under a Dean and Prebendaries. Mary, in 1556, 
 dissolved this institution, and re-appointed an Abbot and monks ; but 
 Elizabeth, on her accession, placed it under a Dean and 12 secular 
 Canons, as a Collegiate Church, besides Minor Canons, and others of the 
 choir, to the number of 30; 10 other officers, 2 schoolmasters, 40 scho- 
 lars, and 12 almsmen, with ample maintenance for all ; besides stewards, 
 receivers, registrars, library-keepers, and other officers, the principal 
 being the High Steward of Westminster. In the time of Cromwell, 
 most of the revenues were devoted to the public service, but afterwards 
 restored. As the Abbots of the Monastery had in former times pos- 
 sessed great privileges and honours annexed to the foundation, such as 
 being intrusted with the keeping of the regalia for the coronation, &c., 
 haying places of necessary service on days of solemnity, and also exer- 
 cising archiepiscopal jurisdiction in their liberties, and sitting as spiri- 
 tual lords in Parliament, so the Deans of the Collegiate Church suc- 
 i still pos 
 ction, not 
 precincts 
 nexed to it by Henry VII. 
 
 From the first opening of the edifice until after the reign of Elizabeth, 
 the Abbey was regarded as a safe Sanctuary : hither the Queen of Ed- 
 ward IV. fled with her five daughters and the young Duke of York 
 
98 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 when the crafty Richard Duke of Gloucester was plotting to seize 
 the crown. " The Queen," sa}'s Sir Thomas More, " sate low on the 
 rushes, all desolate and dismayed ;" whilst the Thames was full of 
 boats of Gloucester's servants, watching that no man should go to 
 Sanctuary. On the reverse of Edward IV., in 1470, his Queen, Eliza- 
 beth Woodville, took shelter in the Sanctuary, where, '' in great penury, 
 forsaken of all her friends," she gave birth to Edward V. 
 
 Successive Kings and Abbots continued the building on the plan of 
 Henry III., but so slowly, that the west end towers in 1714 were unfi- 
 nished : these Sir Christopher Wren pulled down, and erected the present 
 western towers, in Grecianised Gothic style ; he also proposed a cen- 
 tral spire, as originally intended, for its beginnings appear on the corners 
 of the cross, " but left off before it rose so high as the ridge of the roof." 
 Of the old west front there is a view by Hollar in Dugdale's Monasticon. 
 Of the Confessor's Church, the early Anglo-Norman work under the 
 present edifice, or buildings attached to it, may have formed a part. 
 
 " The Church, as far as rebuilt in the reign of Henry III., may be easily dis- 
 tinguished from the parts erected at a later period. It consists of Edward the 
 Confessor's Chapel, the side aisles and chapels, the choir, (to somewhat lower 
 than Sir Isaac Newton's monument,) and the transepts. The four pillars of the 
 present choir, which have brass fillets, appear to finish Henry's work : the con- 
 clusion of which is also marked by a striped chalky stone, which forms the 
 roof." Dugdale's Monasticon, vol. i. p. 273. 
 
 The Church is built upon a close fine sand, secured only by its very 
 broad, wide-spreading foundations. It is of several varieties of stone, 
 similar to that of Gatton or Reigate, which are much decomposed : the 
 Caen stone is generally in a bad condition, especiallv on the north side; 
 the cloisters are mouldering, except where recently restored ; but the 
 western towers, of shelly Portland oolite, are sound. The Chapel of 
 Henry VII., originally built with Caen stone, was restored within the 
 present century, at a cost of 42,028Z., but with Combe Down Bath- 
 stone, already in a state of decomposition. 
 
 The Chapel of Henry VII., at the eastern end of the entire pile, 
 is styled by Leland the " miracle of the world ;" and probably in no 
 other edifice in the world is displayed such profound geometrical skill, 
 mingled with such luxuriance of ornament. So profuse and delicate 
 is the tracery throughout, that " it would seem as though the archi- 
 tect had intended to give to stone the character of embroidery, and 
 inclose his walls in the meshes of lace-work." With the exception 
 of the plinth, every part is covered with sculptural decorations : the 
 buttress towers are crowned by octagonal domes, with richly-crusted 
 finials, and enriched by niches and elegant tracery ; the cross-springera 
 are perforated into airy forms ; and the very cornices and parapets are 
 charged, even to profusion, with armorial cognizances and knotted 
 foliage. Prominent among these decorations are the portcullis chained, 
 the rose barbed and seeded, the Tudor Flower, the fleur-de-lis and the 
 radiated quartrefoil, oak and vine branches, conjoined leaves, dragons, 
 lions, grotesque human heads, demi-angels, animals with two bodies 
 uniting in one head, and demi-musicians plaving the violin. The towers 
 are charged with the badges and supporters of the royal founder, 
 deeply undercut ; the portcullis, the rose, and the fleur-de-lis alternat- 
 ing with the lion, the dragon, and the greyhound ; whilst the niches 
 have statue -pedestals, each labelled, in black-letter, with the name of 
 some prophet, apostle, or saint. The first stone of this superb edifice 
 was laid by Abbot Islip, Sir Reginald Bray, and others, in the name of 
 King Henry VII., Jan. 24, 1503 ; the architect is stated to have been 
 William Bolton, Prior of St. Bartholomew beside Smithfield. 
 
 The Exterior of the Abbey is best viewed from a distance : the west- 
 ern front from Tothill-street ; the picturesque North Transept from 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 99 
 
 King-street; and the south side from College- street. St. Margaret's 
 Church, so often condemned as a disfigurement in viewing the Abbey, 
 renders its height much greater by contrast. " Distant peeps of the 
 Abbey towers, springing lightly above the trees, may be caught on the 
 rising ground of the Green Park, and from the bridge over the Ser- 
 pentine; and the superior elevation of the whole Abbey is seen with 
 great effect from the hills about Wandsworth and Wimbledon." (Hand- 
 booh, by H. Cole.) The importance of the western towers will, how- 
 ever, be lessened by the loftier towers of the New Houses of Parliament. 
 The North Transept, though its niches are statueless, is remarkable 
 for its pinnacled buttresses, its triple porch and clustered columns, 
 and its great rose-window, 90 feet in circumference so as to have been 
 called, for its beauty, " Solomon's porch." From the west side of this 
 Transept judicious 'restorations are in progress. At the arched door- 
 way leading into the North Aisle terminates the portion of the Abbey 
 completed by Edward I. 
 
 The Western Front bears the date 1735 : the height of the towers 
 (225 feet) tells nobly ; they were used as a telegraph station during the 
 last French war. The great west window was the work of Abbot 
 Estney, in 1498. The base of the south tower is hidden by the gable 
 of the Jerusalem Chamber, now used as the Chapter-House. Its north- 
 ern window has some stained glass temp. Edward III. ; and here hangs 
 the ancient portrait of Richard II. in the Coronation Chair. Adjoin- 
 ing is the Deanery, where are portraits of several Deans. Parallel with 
 the Jerusalem Chamber is the College Dining Hall and Kitchen, built 
 by Abbot Litlington. The Westminster scholars dine in the Hall: in 
 the centre faggots blaze on a circular stone hearth, the smoke finding 
 egress through the lantern in the roof. 
 
 In the Jerusalem Chamber died Henry IV., brought from the Con- 
 fessor's Shrine in the Abbey in a fit of apoplexy, March 20, 1413. 
 Being carried into this Chamber, he asked, on rallying, where he was ; 
 and when informed, he replied, to use the words of Shakspeare, founded 
 on history 
 
 " Laud be to God ! even here my life must end : 
 It hath been prophesied to me many years, 
 I should not die but in Jerusalem." 
 
 King Henry IV., Part 2, act iv. sc. 4. 
 
 Here the body of Congreve lay in state, before his pompous funeral, at 
 which noblemen bore the pall. Here, too, Acldison lay in state, before 
 his burial in Henry VII. 's Chapel, as pictured in Tickell's elegy : 
 " Can I forget the dismal night that gave 
 
 My soul's best part for ever to the firave? 
 
 How silent did his old companions tread, 
 
 By midnight lamps, the mansions of the dead: 
 
 Through breathing statues, then unheeded things ; 
 
 Through rows of warriors, and through walks of kings," &c. 
 The South Side is approached from Dean's Yard, on the east side of 
 which an old doorway leads into a court where is Inigo Jones's rustic en- 
 trance to the school-room of the College, refounded, in 15GO, by Queen 
 Elizabeth. To the left are the old grey Cloisters, with groined arches 
 of the 14th century, surrounding a grassy area monastic solitude in 
 contrast with the scene on the opposite side of the Church. The Rem- 
 brandtish lights of these cloisters are very fine ; and here the South Aisle 
 of the Church, with its huge buttresses, is best seen. The North Clois- 
 ter is distinguished by its trefoiled arches, with circles above them, of 
 the 12th century. The East Cloister (temp. Edward III.) is rich in 
 flowing tracery and foliations. Here is the entrance to a chapel of the 
 Confessor's time, and now " the Chamber of the Pix," wherein are kept 
 the standards used at the trial of the Pix, the three keys of its double 
 
100 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 doors being deposited with distinct officers of the Exchequer. The 
 groined roofs are supported by Romanesque or semicircular arches, and 
 thick, short, round shafts. 
 
 Eastward is the once magnificent entrance to the Chapter -House, 
 temp. Henry III. Here the Commons assembled in 1377, and continued 
 their sittings till they removed to St. Stephen's Chapel. The Chapter- 
 House is now a treasury of Records, including the Star-Chamber pro- 
 ceedings. But the gem of the place is William the Conqueror's Domes- 
 day Book, in excellent condition, from searchers not being allowed to 
 touch the text, or writing. Here, too, are Clement the Seventh's Golden 
 Bull, confirming the title of Defender of the Faitli on Henry VIII. ; a 
 treaty of perpetual peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I., with a 
 gold seal, G inches diameter, said to be the work of Cellini ; the original 
 wills of Richard II., Henry V., Henry VII., and Henry VIII. ; and the 
 Indenture between Henry VII. and the Abbot of Westminster, a glo- 
 rious specimen of miniature painting and velvet binding, with enamelled 
 and gilt bosses. The Chapter-House is octagonal in plan; and on one 
 of its sides is a statue called "St. John," said to be one of the oldest 
 sculptures in the Abbey. This was a beautifully-decorated building, 
 with painted walls and coloured and gilded arcades, and high-arched 
 windows in seven of its sides, now sadly obscured. The interior is only 
 to be viewed by permission, to be obtained from the authorities of the 
 Public Record Office, at the Rolls House, Chancery-lane. Here is the 
 Library of the Dean and Chapter, (about 11,000 volumes) : it was formed 
 from the monks' parlour by Dean Williams, whose portrait hangs at 
 the south end. 
 
 The South Transept is less decorated than its fellow on the north ; 
 and the lower part is concealed by the Library and Chapter-House. 
 
 The Chapels, both on the north and south sides, are nearly alike, 
 and architecturally in character with Henry III.'s structure : they are 
 lighted by lofty windows, with arches enclosing circles, above which are 
 windows within triangles, also enclosing circles. 
 
 At the entrance of the Little Cloisters is Litlington Tower, built 
 by Abbot Litlington, and originally the bell-tower of the Church :* the 
 four bells were rung, and a small flag hoisted on the top of this tower 
 (as appears in Hollar's view), when great meetings or prayers took 
 place' in St. Catherine's Chapel, pulled down 1571. The bells (one 
 dated 1430, and two 1598) were taken down, and, with two new bells, 
 were hung in one of Wren's western towers. Litlington Tower has 
 been restored by its tenant, Mr. R. Clark, one of the choir, who also 
 erected in its front the original Gothic entrance to the Star-Chamber 
 Court, and its ancient iron bell-pull. f 
 
 The best entrance to the Abbey is through the little door into the 
 South Transept, or Poets' Corner ; whence the endless perspective lines 
 lead into mysterious gloom. 
 
 From Poets' Corner we see, almost -without changing the point of sight, the 
 two Transepts, and part of the Xave and Choir. The interior consists, as it were, 
 of two grand stories, or series of groined arches of unequal height : a lower 
 story, which comprises the outer aisles of the Transepts, of the Xave, and the 
 ambulatory of the Choir ; and a higher story, forming the middle aisles of the 
 Nave, Transepts, and the Choir. The lower story mostly exhibits the remains 
 of a series of three-headed arches, or trefoil-headed arcades, resting on a base- 
 
 * An author of the fourteenth century says: " At the Abbey of St. Peter's, 
 Westminster, are two bells, which over all the bells in the world obtain the 
 precedence in wonderful size and tone." We read also, that "in the monasterye 
 of Westminster ther was a fayr yong man which was blynde, whom the monks 
 hadde ordeyned to rynge the bellys." 
 
 t In Litlington Tower lived the noted Lady Hamilton, when servant to Mr. 
 Dare. 
 
CHURCHES: WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 101 
 
 ment seat : and above these arcades are pointed windows, each divided in the 
 centre by a single mullion, surmounted by a circle. Among the marked features 
 of the whole of the upper and inner story are the mural decorations of the span- 
 drels of the arches ; above them, the gallery or triforium ; and over this, a clere- 
 story of lofty windows. (See Handbook, by H. Cole, pp. 45, 46.) 
 
 There is a vague tradition that the triforium, or upper vaulting of 
 the Abbey, was occupied by the nuns of Kilburn when they visited the 
 Abbey, to which their house was subordinate. 
 
 The Interior, viewed from the western entrance, shews the sur- 
 passing beauty of the long-drawn aisles, with their noble columns, har- 
 monious arches, and fretted vaults, "a dim religious light" streaming 
 through the lancet windows. Altogether, Henry III.'s portions of the 
 Abbey Church, especially the Choir, exhibit the most perfect specimens 
 of the latest period of the Lancet, Early English, and Early Pointed style ; 
 whilst in the tombs of Crouchback and Valence, in the Choir, in the 
 Cloisters, in the Chapels of Henry V. and VII., and in many later monu- 
 ments, we may collect specimens of Pure Gothic, Decorated English, 
 Florid Pointed or Perpendicular, Tudor, Elizabethan or Cinque-cento. 
 
 " The exquisite and airy grace of the lofty pointed arch and clustered shafts 
 of the Early English style, the beautiful purity of design and enrichment of the 
 Decorated, and the elaborate profusion of ornamental detail which marks the Per- 
 pendicular or Tudor work, each and all find here most glorious representatives. 
 
 " The Early English is exemplified in the Nortli Transept, the South Aisle 
 of the Nave, and in one compartment of the Nave, the narrow lancet-shaped 
 Arch. The elegant Windows, with their beautiful and simple tracery ; the Piers, 
 with slender shafts surrounding them, connected by moulded bands ; the diaper- 
 work covering the walls; the bold and deeply-cut mouldings; and the light, 
 chaste groining of the ceiling, are all indicative of the best and purest epoch of 
 the style. 
 
 " The Decorated Style is shewn in the western portion of the sides of the 
 Nave ; and they differ from the eastern part only in detail, the general outline 
 being similar. 
 
 " Of the Perpendicular we have a most gorgeous specimen in Henry VII.'s 
 Chapel. The large windows, divided into stories by transoms, the head filled 
 with tracery formed by the vertical continuation of the mullions ; the canopied 
 niches, with images of saints and martyrs ; the profusion of panelling, shields, 
 and badges covering the walls; and above all the stupendous roof, with its 
 magnificent fan-tracery and pendants, are all well-recognised features of the archi- 
 tecture of this period, and unite to form a sublime monument, without a parallel, 
 of the consummate skill and genius of the architects of old. The Tomb of Ed- 
 ward III. is also a fine specimen of Perpendicular work of earlier date, and affords 
 a good example of the ancient canopies of wood which covered many of the old 
 tombs." See A Chart illustrative of the Architecture of Westminster Abbey, by 
 Francis Bedford, jun. 
 
 The general plan of the Church is cruciform, and, besides the Nave 
 Choir, and Transepts, contains 12 Chapels ; the principal of which are 
 those dedicated to St. Edward of England, to the Blessed Virgin 
 (Henry VII.'s), the easternmost building, and those in the northern 
 and southern sides of the building: four on the south, viz. those of St. 
 Blaise, St. Benedict, St. Edmund, and St. Nicholas ; on the north those 
 of St. Andrew, St. Michael, St. John the Evangelist, St. Erasmus, St. 
 John the Baptist, and St. Paul. Of these, 10 are nearly filled with 
 monumental tombs ; the Chapel of Henry VII. containing but the mo- 
 nument of its founder ; and that of St. Paul having but one tomb. 
 
 From Poets' Corner, (where a guide accompanies visitors through 
 the Chapels and Choir,) in passing to the first Chapel may be seen, 
 preserved under glass, the remains of an altar-painting, including a 
 figure, probably intended for Christ, an angel with a palm-branch on each 
 side, and a figure of St. Peter, considered by Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A., 
 to be " worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century," yet 
 executed in England : of the costly enrichments there remain coloured 
 
 fflass. inlairl nn tinfnil. nnrl a FAW p'ampns and o-ftms. The following IS 
 
102 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the order of the Chapels, only the most remarkable of their monumental 
 Curiosities being noticed : 
 
 1 
 
 Ground Plan of Westminster Abbey. A. Jerusalem Chamber. B. College Dining 
 Hall. C. Kitchen. D. Larder. E. Ancient remains. F. Confessor's build- 
 ing (Fix). G. Dark Cloisters. H. Hall of Refectory. 1. High Altar. 2. Henry 
 V.'s Chapel. 3. Porch to Henry VII.'s Chapel. 4. Henry VII.'s Tomb. 
 
 1. St. Benedict's Chapel. The oldest tomb here is that of Langham, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury (d. 1376), with his effigies robed and mitred. 
 
 2. St. Edmund's Chapel : Tomb of William de Valence, Earl of 
 Pembroke, and half-brother to Henry III. (d. 1296), the effigies encased 
 in metal ; tomb of John of Eltham, son of Edward II. (d. 1334) ; ala- 
 baster figures of William of Windsor and Blanch de la Tour, children 
 of Edward III., the boy in a short doublet, the girl in a horned head- 
 dress; portrait brasses, in the area, of Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess 
 of Gloucester, as a nun of Barking Abbey (d. 1399), and Robert de 
 Waldeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397), both the most perfect in the 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 103 
 
 the guides to have died from the prick of a needle ; wall monuments to 
 Lady Jane Seymour (d. 1560) and Lady Jane Grey (d. 1553) ; black- 
 marble gravestone of Lord Herbert of Cherbury (d. 1678) ; and Sir Ber- 
 nard Brocas (d. 1470), altar statue and decorated canopy. 
 
 3. St. Nicholas's Chapel : Perpendicular stone screen, with quatre- 
 foiled arches highly decorated, and embattled frieze of shields and 
 roses, once coloured; entrance, over the grave of Spelman, the anti- 
 quary, (d. 1641) ; rich in Elizabethan tombs, bright with gold and 
 colour, alabaster, touchstone, porphyry, and variegated marbles, Gothic 
 canopies, Corinthian pillars, kneeling and recumbent figures, &c. : mar- 
 ble tomb of the wife of the Protector Somerset, (d. 1578); portrait 
 brass of Sir Humphry Stanley, (d. 1505,) knighted by Henry VII. on 
 Bosworth Field ; gorgeous monument of the great Lord Burghley to his 
 wife Mildred, (d. 1589,) and their daughter Anne (d. 1588) ; costly altar- 
 tomb of Sir George Villiers, (d. 1619,) erected for his wife, by N." Stone, 
 cost 5601., the year before her death, 1632 ; monument of Bishop Dud- 
 ley, his original brass effigies gone, and the figure of Lady Catherine 
 St. John in its place ! Here rests Katherine of Valois, Queen of 
 Henry V., removed on the pulling down of the old Chapel of the Virgin ; 
 her body was for nearly three centuries shewn to visitors, not being 
 re-interred until 1776. Next is the vault of the Percys, with a large 
 marble monument, designed by Adam: here, Feb. 22, 1847, Hugh, second 
 Duke of Northumberland, was interred with great state. 
 
 In the Ambulatory, opposite St. Nicholas's Chapel, is the eastern 
 side of the tomb of Edward III., and the chantry of Henry V. ; looking 
 whence, " in a few square feet, we have specimens of Gothic archi- 
 tecture, in several of its stages, as it flourished from the time of Henry 
 III. to Henry VII." Through a dark vestibule you ascend to 
 
 4. Henry VII.'s Chapel, consisting of a nave and two aisles, with 
 five chapels at the east end. The entrance-gates are of oak, cased with 
 brass-gilt, and richly dight with the portcullis, the crown, and twisted 
 roses. The vaulted porch is enriched with radiated quatrefoils and 
 other figures, roses, fleurs-de-lis, &c. ; Henry's supporters, the lion, 
 the dragon, and the greyhound ; his arms and his badges ; a rose frieze 
 and embattlement. The fan-traceried pendentive stone roof of the 
 Chapel is encrusted with roses, knots of flowers, bosses, pendants, and 
 armorial cognizances ; the walls are covered with sunk panels, with 
 feathered mouldings : and in a profusion of niches are statues, and 
 angels with escutcheons; and the royal heraldic devices, the Tudor rose 
 and the fleur-de-lis under crowns. The edifice is lighted by eight clere- 
 story windows over the aisles. 
 
 In the nave are the dark oaken canopied stalls of the Knights of the 
 Bath, who were installed in this Chapel until 1812 : these stalls are stud- 
 ded with portcullises, falcons on fetterlocks, fruit and flowers, dragons 
 and angels ; and above each stall hangs the banner of its knight. In 
 the centre of the apsis, or east end, within rich and massive gates of 
 brass, is the royal founder's tomb: a pedestal, with the effigies (supposed 
 likenesses) of Henry and his Queen Elizabeth, originally crowned ; the 
 whole adorned with pilasters, relievos, rose-branches, and images, on 
 graven tabernacles, of the Kings and patron Saints, all copper-gilt ; at 
 the angles are seated angels. This costly tomb is the six years' work 
 of Pietro Torrigiano, a Florentine, who received for it the immense sum 
 of 1500/. : the Perpendicular brazen screen, resembling a Gothic palace, 
 is English art : it formerly had 36 statues, of which but six remain. The 
 only remnant of old glass in the Chapel is a figure called Henry VII. in 
 the east window. 
 
 From Henry VII. to George II., most of the English sovereigns 
 have been interred here. Edward VI. was buried near the high altar, but 
 
104 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 is without tomb or inscription. In the North Aisle, in the same tomb, 
 lie the Queens Mary and Elizabeth, with a large monument to Elizabeth, 
 by Maximilian Coulte, erected by James I.* 
 
 Near this royal monument is an alabaster cradle and effigy of the in- 
 fant daughter of James I.; which King, with his Queen Anne, and son 
 Prince Henry, the Queen of Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart, lie beneath. 
 Next is a white marble sarcophagus, containing the supposed remains of 
 Edward V. and his brother Richard, murdered in the Tower by order of 
 their uncle, King Richard III. Near it is a recumbent figure,*by Sir R. 
 "Westmacott, R.A., of the Duke of Montpensier (d. 1807), brother of Louis 
 Philippe, King of the French. Next is the grave of Addison, whose ele- 
 gant and impressive essay on the Abbey Church and its monuments is in- 
 separable from its history ; and close by is the great pyramidal monument 
 of Addison's friend and patron, the Earl of Halifax, one of the Poets of 
 Johnson's Lives. The headless corpse of Charles I. was buried at "Wind- 
 sor. The Protector was buried in Henry YII.'s Chapel, (1658.) but in 
 about two years his remains were removed. In the South Aisle was 
 interred (1685) Charles II., " without any manner of pomp, and soon for- 
 gotten" (Evelyn). James II. has no place'here ;f the vacant space next his 
 brother's remains being occupied by William III. and his Queen. Anne 
 and Prince George complete the royal occupants of the vault. In the 
 centre of the Chapel, in another vault, are the remains of King George II. 
 and Queen Caroline, as it were in one receptacle, a side from each cof- 
 fin having been removed by the King's direction. In the same vault 
 rests Frederick Prince of Wales, father of George III., beside the Duke 
 of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden. In the South Aisle is the altar- 
 tomb of Margaret Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., with 
 a brass effigy, by Torrigiano ; a very fine altar -tomb, with effigy, of 
 
 * " The bigot Mary rests in the Abbey Church at Westminster, but no storied 
 monument, no costly tomb, has been raised to her memory. She was interred, 
 with all the solemn funeral rites used by the Roman Church, and a mass of re- 
 quiem, on the north side of the Chapel of Henry VII. During the reign of her 
 successor not the slightest mark of respect was shewn to her memory by the erec- 
 tion of a monument; and even at the present day no other memorial remains to 
 point out where she lies, except two small black tablets at the base of the sumptu- 
 ous tomb erected by order of King James I. over the ashes of Elizabeth and her 
 less fortunate sister. On them we read as follow: 
 
 REGNO CONSORTE8 
 ET VRNA HIC OBDOR- 
 MIMXJS ELIZABETHA 
 
 ET MARIA SORORES 
 
 IN SPE RESVRREC- 
 
 TIONIS. 
 
 air F. Madden; Privy-Purse Expenses of the Princess Mary, $c. 
 t James II. died at St. Germain-en-Laye, and his body was kept unburied 
 until 1793 or 1794, in the church of the English Benedictine Monastery at Paris, 
 where it was exhibited for money. It was not until 1824 that the body, or the 
 greater portion of it, was conveyed to St. Germain, where it was buried with 
 great pomp in the parish church, most of the English then in Paris or the 
 neighbourhood joining in the funeral procession. The intestines of the king 
 were given, soon after his death, to the Irish College in Paris ; where also his body 
 lay after the destruction of the Church of the Benedictines, and before its final 
 interment at St. Germain. The brain of the king was given to the Scotch College 
 in Paris, and the heart to the Convent at Chaillot. In the chapel of the Scotch 
 College in Paris is a monument, with a long Latin inscription, erected in 1703 by 
 James Duke of Perth, to the memory of James II. An urn once stood over the 
 monument containing the king's brain, but this was destroyed at the period of 
 the Revolution. Near this is a slab covering the heart of his queen, and another 
 the intestines of his daughter Louisa. A monument of white and crey marble was 
 also erected to the King at St. Germain, by order of George IV. : it bears a Latin 
 inscription, in which James is characterised as 
 
 " Magnus in prosper is, in adversis major." 
 Communicated by Dr. Wrcford of Bristol to the Athencsnm, Nov. 30, 1850. 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 105 
 
 Lord Darnley's mother, who "had to her great grandfather King Ed- 
 ward IV., to her grandfather King Henry VII., to her uncle King Henry 
 VIII., to her cousin-german King Edward VI., to her brother King 
 James V. of Scotland, to her son Darnley, (husband of Mary Queen 
 of Scots,) King Henry I. (of Scotland), and to her grandchild King 
 James VI. (of Scotland)," and I. of England. Here also is the tomb, 
 with effigy, of Mary Queen of Scots, erected by Cornelius Cure for 
 James I., who removed his mother's remains thither from Peterborough 
 Cathedral. In the same aisle lies Monk, Duke of Albemarle, whose 
 funeral Charles II. personally attended : the statue monument is by 
 Kent. Here likewise are interred George Villiers, Duke of Bucking- 
 ham (assassinated 1628), and his son, the profligate Duke. 
 
 Henry VII. did not live to see this Chapel finished ; but his will, 
 dated A.D. 1509, contains orders and directions for its completion. In 
 several parts of the Chapel is repeated a rebus, formed by an eye and a 
 slip or branch of a tree, indicating the name of the founder, Islip. 
 
 5. St. PauVs Chapel is crowded with Cinque-cento tombs, rich in 
 marble, gilding, and colour : the tombs of Sir Thomas Bromley, Queen 
 Elizabeth s Chancellor, hung with banners ; of Lord Bourchier, stand- 
 ard-bearer to Henry V. at Agincourt ; and of Sir Giles Daubney, are 
 among the best specimens of the period. In frigid and colossal contrast 
 with their beauty, and hiding the Raffaelesque sculptures of Henry 
 the Fifth's chantry, is the sitting statue of James "Watt, the engineer, 
 by Chantrey, R.A., strangely out of place in a mediaeval Church : the 
 inscription is by Lord Brougham. Next westward is 
 
 6. St. Erasmus's Chapel, with an enriched canopy, erected, as its 
 rebuses shew, by Abbot Islip, and leading to 
 
 7. St. John the Baptist's Chapel, with a groined roof, coloured end 
 wall, and sculptured arcades. Here are buried several early Abbots of 
 "Westminster. An altar-tomb, of freestone, bears the effigy of William 
 de Colchester, wearing gold bracelets bordered with pearls and set 
 with stones, and a gold mitre covered with large pearls, and crosses 
 and stars of precious gems, a rare piece of monumental costume. Here 
 is a large Cinque-cento monument to Gary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin 
 and Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth ; in the centre of the area is the 
 altar-tomb of Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter, and his two wives, the 
 second of whom refused to allow her statue to be laid in the left side 
 space, still vacant. The alabaster monument to Colonel Edward 
 Popham, "one of the Parliament generals at sea," was the only one 
 spared at the Restoration. Nearly all the old tombs have lost their 
 canopies. The view from here is very picturesque and varied ; and in 
 leaving the Chapel, the eye ranges across the north transept, and down 
 the north aisles of the choir and nave, through a high o'erarching vista 
 of " dim religious light," brightened by a geminy lancet window. 
 
 8. Abbot Islip" s Chapel is elegantly sculptured, and contains his altar- 
 tomb, with an effigy of the Abbot in his winding-sheet. In this chapel was 
 the Wax-work Exhibition, which originated in the olden custom of waxen 
 figures of great persons being formerly borne in their funeral proces- 
 sions, then for a time deposited over their graves, and subsequently re- 
 moved. Other figures were added ; the sight was called by the vulgar, 
 " The Play of the Dead Volks," and was not discontinued until 1839. Next 
 the Chapel is the monument to General Wolfe, by "Wilton, R.A., with a 
 lead-bronzed bas-relief of the landing at Quebec, executed by Cappizoldi. 
 We now enter the East Aisle of the North Transept, formerly divided 
 by enriched screens into the Chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and St. 
 Andrew. Here is the celebrated tomb of Sir Francis Vere (temp. Eliza- 
 beth), his effigy recumbent beneath a canopy on which are his helmet, 
 breastplate, &c., supported by four kneeling knights at the four corners ; 
 
106 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the design is said to have been borrowed from a tomb at Breda, attri- 
 buted to Michael Angelo. Roubiliac was found one day with his 
 looks fixed on one of the knights' figures ; "Hush! hush!" said he to 
 the Abbey mason, laying his hand on his arm as he approached, and 
 pointing to the figure, "he will speak presently." Near this tomb is 
 Roubiliac's famous monument to Mr. and Mrs. .Nightingale, where 
 Death, as a skeleton, is launching his dart at the beautiful wife, who 
 sinks into the arms of her agonised husband : her right arm is the per- 
 fection of sculpture: "life seems slowly receding from her tapering 
 fingers and quivering wrist." (Allan Cunningham.) Roubiliac died 
 the year after its erection, 1762. This work touches every heart, but 
 the figure of Death is too literal and melodramatic. Upon the spot, 
 formerly the oratory of St. John the Evangelist, is a marble statue of 
 Mrs. Siddons by Campbell ; she is in her famous walking dream as Lady 
 Macbeth. Here is also an alto-relievo, by J. Bacon, jun., to Admiral R. 
 Kempenfeldt, drowned by the sinking of the Royal George, 1782: 
 
 " When Kempenfeldt went down 
 With twice four hundred men." 
 
 Opposite is the colossal statue of Telford, the eminent engineer (d. 
 1834), by Baily, R.A. ; and a tablet to Sir Humphry Davy (d. 1829). 
 Eastward is the north side of Henry the Fifth's Chantry, with its coro- 
 nation ceremony, and its equestrian war group, whose poetic grandeur 
 of sculpture so charmed Flaxman. We now ascend a small staircase, to 
 
 9. Edward the Confessor's Chapel, in the rear of the high altar of the 
 Abbey. In the centre is the Shrine of the Confessor, erected at the ex- 
 pense of Henry III., and enriched with mosaic, priceless jewels, and 
 images of gold and silver ; and bearing a Latin inscription, now almost 
 effaced. Northward is the altar-tomb of Edward I. (d. 1307), of Purbeck 
 marble, "scautly fynysshed :" it was opened in 1774, when the King's 
 body was nearly entire. Next is the canopied altar-tomb of Henry III. 
 (d. 1272), once richly dight with glittering marbles and mosaic work of 
 gold, and still bearing a fine brass effigies of the King, At the east end 
 is the altar-tomb and effigies of Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. ; its beau- 
 tiful iron-work, wrought by a smith at Leighton Buzzard in 1293-4, was 
 restored in 1849 : the statues of the Queen and of Henry III. are con- 
 cluded to be by the same artist, William Torrel. To Fabian's time, two 
 wax tapers had been kept burning upon Eleanor's tomb, day and night, 
 from her burial. The altar -tomb and chantry of Henry V. occupy the 
 east end of the Chapel : the head of the King, of solid silver, was stolen 
 at the Reformation. " In Harry the Fifth's time," says Sir Philip 
 Sydney, " the Lord Dudley was his lord-steward, and did that pitiful 
 office in bringing home, as the chief mourner, his victorious master's 
 dead body, as who goes but to Westminster in the church may see." 
 Henry's helmet (probably worn at Agincourt), his shield and saddle, are 
 preserved here ; the canopies and niches, filled with statues of kings, 
 bishops, abbots, and saints, are very fine. The archway had formerly 
 ornamented iron gates, made by a London smith, in 1431, and now 
 among the Abbey stores. 
 
 Near to this Chantry is the altar-tomb, with marble effigies, of 
 Philippa, Queen of Edward IIL (d. 1369) ; but the tomb has been strip- 
 ped of its 30 statues. Next is the highly-decorated altar -tomb and effigies 
 of Edward III. (d. 1377), with the richest and most perfect canopy in 
 the Abbey ; beside it rest the state sword and shield " carried before 
 Edward ill. in France :" 
 
 " The monumental sword that conquered France." Dryden, 
 Here, too, are three small tombs of children of Edward III., Edward 
 IV., and Henry VII. ; and the canopied monument, with recumbent 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 107 
 
 figures of Richard II. (d. 1399-1400) and his first Queen, Anne of Bo- 
 hemia (d. 1394). Also, a brass of John de Waltham, Bishop of Salis- 
 bury, and Lord High Treasurer, buried, by favour of Richard II., in 
 this'" Chapel of the Kings." The Chapel is parted from the Choir by 
 a shrine of fifteenth-century work, its frieze bearing the following 14 
 sculptures, illustrative of the life of Edward the Confessor : 
 
 1. Prelates and nobles doing fealty to Ed.ward the Confessor before he was 
 born. 2. Birth of the Confessor. 3. The Confessor's Coronation. 4. The 
 Confessor witnessing the Devil dancing on the Danegelt Tax in casks. 5. Ed- 
 ward admonishing the thief stealing his treasure. 6. Christ appearing to Edward. 
 7. Vision King of Denmark falling into the sea. 8. Tosti and Harold's quarrel. 
 9. Vision Emperor Theodosius, and Cave of Seven Sleepers of Ephesus. 10. 
 Edward giving his ring to St. John Evangelist. 11. Restoration of the Blind, 
 by use of water in which Edward had washed. 12. St. John giving Edward's 
 ring to Pilgrims. 13. Pilgrims returning the ring to Edward. 14. Called " De- 
 dication of Edward the Confessor's Church." 
 
 The two upper stories of the Shrine are of wainscot, and were pro- 
 bably erected by Abbot Feckenham, in Queen Mary's reign. The pre- 
 sent'coffin of the pious Edward, within the ancient stonework, may be 
 seen from the parapet of Henry V.'s Chapel. 
 
 With their backs to the screen stand the two Coronation Chairs 
 used at the crowning of the British sovereigns. One was made by order 
 of Edward I. to hold the Scone stone, of legendary fame, and which had 
 been for ages the coronation-seat of the Scottish kings : it is of red- 
 dish-grey sandstone, 26 by I6f inches, and 101 inches thick. The com- 
 panion chair was made for the coronation of Mary, Queen of William 
 III. Both chairs are of architectural design : the ancient one, St. 
 Edward's Chair, is supported upon four lions; and both are covered 
 with gold-frosted tissue, and cushioned, when used at coronations. 
 
 In 1297, according to Stow, Edward offered at the Confessor's Shrine 
 the chair, containing the famous stone ; and the sceptre and crown of 
 gold of the Scottish sovereigns, which he had brought from the Abbey 
 of Scone. It is called the Prophetic or Fatal Stone, from the belief of the 
 Scots that whenever it was lost, the power of the nation would decline ; 
 it was also superstitiously called Jacob's Pillow. The mosaic pavement 
 of this Chapel, by Abbot Ware, is as old as the Confessor's Shrine : its 
 enigmatical designs in tesserae of coloured marbles, porphyry, jasper, 
 alabaster, &c., are very curious. 
 
 The Choir has some fine canopied monuments. On the north side 
 are the tombs of the Countess of Lancaster ; of Aymer de Valence, Earl 
 of Pembroke (best seen from the north aisle) ; and Edmund Crouchback, 
 Earl of Lancaster, second son of Edward III. Flaxman speaks of the 
 two latter monuments as "specimens of the magnificence of our sculp- 
 ture in the reign of the first two Edwards. The loftiness of the work, 
 the number of arches and pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the 
 richness and profusion of foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of the 
 principal statue, representing the deceased in his last prayer for mercy 
 at the throne of grace ; the delicacy of thought in the group of angels 
 bearing the soul, and the tender sentiment of concern variously expressed 
 in the relations ranged in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the 
 attention, and carry the thoughts not only to other ages, but to other 
 states of existence." On the south is the altar-tomb of Anne of Cleves ; 
 and above it is the tomb of King Sebert, erected in 1308, and bearing 
 two pictures, Sebert and Henry III., in tolerable condition. 
 
 In 1848, the oak refitting of the Choir was completed ; and the organ 
 over the screen at the west entrance partly removed to the sides, and 
 partly lowered, so as not to intercept the view of the great west win- 
 dow. On each side are ranged oaken stalls, with decorated gables, 
 those for the Dean and Subdean distinguished by loftier canopies, and 
 
108 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the western entrance being still more enriched ; the pew-fronts and 
 seat-ends are also carved, and 1000 more sittings have been provided : 
 the carved wood-work is by Messrs. Ruddle, of Peterborough, from 
 designs by Mr. E. Blore. The great circular or marigold window, and 
 the triforium and other windows beneath it, in the South Transept, 
 have been filled with stained glass by Ward and Nixon ; the subjects 
 are incidents in the life of our Saviour, with figures nearly 3 feet high. 
 From the cross of the Transepts, the magnificent perspective of the high 
 imbowedroof of the Nave and Choir, and the great height of the edifice, 
 nearly 101 feet, is seen to the best advantage. The pavement is partly 
 Abbot Ware's, and in part black and white marble, the latter given by 
 Dr. Busby, of Westminster School. The decorations of the altar are 
 in the Gothic style ; but a classic altar disgraced the choir from the days 
 of Queen Anne to the reign of George IV. 
 
 The North Transept contains some important modern monuments : 
 such are Bacon's statue of the great Lord Chatham, with allegorical 
 figures; and Nollekens's large group of pyramid, allegory, and me- 
 dallion, to the three Captains mortally wounded in Rodney's victory of 
 April 12, 1782 : these are national tributes, erected by the King and 
 Parliament. The memorials to naval commanders here are numerous, 
 and their heroic suffering is usually narrated in medallion. Mrs. Warren 
 and child, sometimes entitled " Charity," for pathetic treatment has 
 few rivals in modern sculpture ; it is by Sir R. Westmacott, R. A. One 
 of the grandest works here is Flaxman's sitting statue of Lord Chief- 
 Justice Mansfield, supported by figures of Wisdom and Justice ; in the 
 rear of the pedestal is the crouching figure of a condemned youth, with 
 the torch of life reversed ; or it is better described as " a criminal, by 
 Wisdom delivered up to Justice." (Cunningham's Handbook of West- 
 minster Abbey.) Lord Mansfield rests beneath this memorial :' it cost 
 2500?., bequeathed by a private individual for its erection. In the 
 pavement are buried Chatham, Pitt and Fox, Castlereagh, Canning 
 aud Grattan, Lord Colchester, and William Wilberforce : 
 
 " Now taming thought to human pride! 
 The mighty chiefs sleep side by side. 
 Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier; 
 O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound, 
 And Fox's shall the notes rebound." Scott. 
 
 Fox's memorial, by Westmacott, shews the orator dying in the arms 
 of Liberty, attended by Peace and a kneeling negro ;* Pitt's monument, 
 by the same sculptor, is over the great western door of the Nave. 
 Here, and in the north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, are 
 Chantrey's marble portrait-statues of Homer, Canning, Malcolm, and 
 Raffles ; a statue of Follett, by Behnes ; John Philip Kemble (without a 
 name), modelled by Flaxman, but executed after his death ; Wilberforce, 
 by S. Joseph ; and, opposite Canning, the late Marquis of Londonderry, 
 by J. E. Thomas, placed here, in 1850, by the present Marquis. 
 
 Here are three monuments by Wilton : statue of General Wolfe, and 
 figures ; statue of Admiral Holmes, in Roman armour ; and William 
 Pulteney, Earl of Bath, statues and medallion. 
 
 The north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, has been described 
 as a sort of Musicians' Corner ; for here rests Purcell, with the striking 
 epitaph, attributed to Dryden : " Here lies Henry Purcell, Esq., who 
 left this life, and is gone to that blessed place where only his harmony 
 can be exceeded." On the same pillar is a memorial to Samuel Arnold : 
 
 * Canova said of the figure of the African in this group, that "neither in 
 England nor out of England had he seen any modern work in marble which sur- 
 passed it." King George IV. subscribed 1000 guineas towards this monument. 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 109 
 
 both Purcell and Arnold were organists of the Abbey. Opposite is a 
 tablet to Dr. Blow, and beneath it his pupil's, Dr. Burney ; and close 
 by lies Dr. Croft, another organist of the Abbey, whose death was 
 brought on by his attendance at the coronation of George II. 
 
 The Nave has almost every variety of memorial sarcophagus and 
 statue, bust and brass, tablet and medallion, mostly modern. In the 
 southern aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, is Bird's monument 
 to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, personifying " the brave, rough English Ad- 
 miral" by a periwigged beau, which is so justly complained of by 
 Addison and the pious Dr. Watts. Opposite is Behnes's bust of Dr. 
 Bell, the founder of the Madras System of Education ; and near it ia 
 the monument to Thomas Thynne, of Longleat, Wilts : he was shot in 
 his coach, at the end of the Haymarket, Sunday, Feb. 12, 1682, as sculp- 
 tured on the tomb. Here, too, is a fine bust, by Le Sceur, of Sir Thomas 
 Richardson, Lord Chief-Justice (temp. Charles I.) ; and a bust of Pas- 
 quale de Paoli, the Corsican chief. Here, also, are the monuments to 
 Dr. South, the witty prebendary of the Church ; Dr. Busby, master of 
 Westminster School ; and Dr. Isaac Watts, buried in Bunhill Fields. 
 
 In the two side arches of the Choir screen are the monuments of 
 Sir Isaac Newton, and James, first Earl Stanhope; both designed by 
 Kent, and executed by Rysbrack : Newton's is characterised by the 
 celestial globe, with the course of the comet of 1681, and the genius of 
 Astrology above it. In the screen niches are statues of Edward the 
 Confessor, Henry III., and Edward L, and their respective queens. 
 
 In the north aisle is a weeping female, by Flaxman, to the memory 
 of George Lindsay Johnstone, a touching memorial of sisterly sorrow. 
 One of the few old monuments here is that to Mrs. Jane Hill (d. 1651), 
 a kneeling figure and sheeted skeleton, and the mottoes : " Mors mini 
 lucrum," and " Solus Christus mihi sola salus." Near the above is the 
 Parliamentary figure group, by Westmacott, to Spencer Perceval, the 
 prime-minister, shot by Bellingham, in the lobby of the House of Com- 
 mons, May 11, 1812 ; the assassination is sculptured rearward of the 
 figures. Here also are several interesting monuments to heroes who 
 have fallen in battle : as, Colonel Bringfield, killed by a cannon-shot at 
 Ramilies whilst remounting the great Duke of Marlborough on a fresh 
 horse ; the three brothers Twysden, who fell in their country's service 
 in three successive years ; Captains Harvey, Hutt, and Montagu, who 
 fell in Lord Howe's victory of June 1 ; Sir Richard Fletcher, killed at 
 St. Sebastian ; and the Hon. Major Stanhope, at Corunna. Here, too, 
 is a plain tablet to Banks, the sculptor and R.A. ; a monument to Sir 
 Godfrey Kneller, the painter, by Rysbrack, after Sir Godfrey's own 
 design, Pope furnishing the epitaph : Kneller is buried in Twickenham 
 Church. Towards the middle of the Nave are the gravestones of Major 
 Rennell, the geographer j and Thomas Telford, the engineer ; and near 
 Banks's tablet is buried Ben Jonson, his coffin set on its feet, and ori- 
 ginally covered with a stone inscribed " O rare Ben Jonson !" By his 
 Bide lies Tom Killigrew, the wit of Charles the Second's court ; and 
 opposite, his son, killed at the battle of Almanza, in Spain, in 1707. 
 
 Over the west door is Westmacott's statue-memorial to the Right 
 Hon. William Pitt : it cost 6300Z., the largest sum ever voted by Go- 
 vernment for a national monument.* 
 
 To the left is a large marble monument to Lord Holland, by Baily, 
 R.A., erected by public subscription in 1848 : the design, the prison- 
 house of Death, with three poetic figures in lamentation, bassi-relievi 
 on the two sides, and the whole surmounted by a colossal bust of the 
 
 * Immediately after the death of Sir Robert Peel, in 1850, the sum of 5000/. 
 was voted by Parliament for a monument to his memory, to be placed " in th 
 Collegiate Church of St. Peter, Westminster." 
 
110 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 deceased Lord, is, perhaps, the finest architectural and sculptural 
 combination in the Abbey. 
 
 We now reach the south tower of the western front, used as the 
 Consistory Court, and Chapel for Morning Prayers. 
 
 In the south aisle of the Nave, commencing from the west, is the 
 tomb of Captain Cornewall, who fell in the sea-fight off Toulon, 1743 ; 
 this being the first monument voted by Parliament for naval services. 
 
 Next is the statue of the Right Hon. James Craggs, the friend of 
 Pope and Addison. 
 
 Next is Bird's bust-monument to Congreve, the great dramatic 
 poet, erected at the expense of Henrietta Duchess of Marlborough, to 
 whom Congreve, " for reasons not known or not mentioned," bequeathed 
 10,OOOZ. Among the noticeable personages interred here, without memo- 
 rials, is Dean Atterbury the place his own previous choice, being, as 
 he told Pope, " as far from kings and ka?sars as the space will admit of;" 
 also Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, buried "in a very fine Brussels lace- 
 head, a Holland shift, with a tucker and double ruffles of the same 
 lace, a pair of new kid gloves," &c. ; to which Pope thus alludes : 
 " Odious ! in woollen ! 'twould a saint provoke, 
 (Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke) : 
 No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace 
 Wrap my cold limbs and shade my lifeless face ; 
 One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead 
 And Betty, give this cheek a little red." 
 
 Eastward is the sculptural burlesque deservedly known as "the Pan- 
 cake Monument," to Admiral Tyrrell, with its patchy clouds, coral rocks, 
 cherubs, harps, palm-branches, and other allegorical absurdities. Be- 
 tween three successive windows are the monuments, by Eoubiliac, of 
 Lieut. -Gen. Hargrave, Maj.-Gen. Fleming, and Marshal Wade, all in 
 the conventional school of allegory. Next is a good bust, bv Bird, of 
 Sidney, Earl of Godolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne; alto-relievo 
 and figures to Lieut.-Col. Townsend, killed by a cannon-ball at Ticon- 
 derago, in his 28th year ; and a monument, by Bushnell, to Sir Palmes 
 Fairborne, governor of Tangier, with inscription by Dry den. We now 
 reach the tomb of Major Andre, who was executed by the Americans 
 as a spy in 1780 ; his remains were removed here in 1821 : the bas-relief 
 shews Andre" as a prisoner in the tent of Washington, with the bearer 
 of a flag of truce to solicit his pardon. This monument was put up at 
 the expense of George III. ; the heads of the principal figures have 
 been several times mischievously knocked off, but as often restored. 
 
 In Poets' Corner (South Transept) are the graves or monuments of 
 the majority of our greatest poets, from Chaucer to Campbell. To the 
 right of the entrance-door is the tomb of "the Father of English Poetry," 
 (d. 1400) : it is a dingy and greasy recess, on which may be traced with 
 the finger Galfridus Chaucer, the only part of the inscription which 
 was originally chiselled ; the other lines have disappeared. This memo- 
 rial was partly placed here in 1556, by Nicholas Brigham, a student at 
 Oxford, and a poet too : the altar-tomb originally covered Chaucer's 
 remains, removed from here by Brigham, who placed over it the canopy : 
 it is altogether in decay, but in 1850 was proposed to be restored. 
 Nearer the door is the large monument erected by Sheffield, Duke of 
 Buckingham, to Dryden, whose name it simply bears, with a noble bust 
 of him by Scheemakers. Pope wrote for the pedestal this couplet : 
 " This Sheffield raised : the sacred dust below 
 Was Dryden once: the rest, who does not know?" 
 
 Next is a wreathed urn, by Bushnell, erected by George Duke of 
 Buckingham over Abraham Conolly, as the Latin inscription declares, 
 the Pindar, Horace, and Virgil of England : this full-blown flattery, by 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Ill 
 
 Dean Sprat, greatly provoked Dr. Johnson. From Chaucer's tomb, 
 eastward, the monuments are placed as follows: to 
 
 John Philips, who wrote The Splendid Shilling, Cider, and other 
 poems : profile in relief, within a wreath of apple and laurel leaves. 
 
 Barton Booth, the eminent actor, the original Cato in Addison's 
 play : a bust, erected by Booth's widow. 
 
 Michael Drayton, who wrote the Polyolbion : a bust on pediment, 
 with a beautiful epitaph, attributed to Dryden ; erected at the expense 
 of Clifford, Countess of Dorset, who also put up a monument to 
 
 Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene : tablet and pedi- 
 ment, renewed in marble in 1778. Spenser was the second poet interred 
 in the Abbey : he " died for lake of bread, in King-street," West- 
 minster ; and was buried here by Devereux, Earl of Essex. 
 
 Ben Jonson : medallion on the wall, by Rysbrack, after Gibbs; " O 
 rare Ben Jonson !" inscribed beneath the head. 
 
 Samuel Butler, author of Hudibras : bust, placed here by Alderman 
 Barber, the patriotic printer (see ALDERMAN, p. 3). 
 
 John Milton, buried in Cripplegate Church: bust and tablet, erected 
 by Mr. Auditor Benson, who, "in the inscription, has bestowed more 
 words on himself than upon Milton." 
 
 Thomas Gray, buried at Stoke Pogeis : a figure of the Lyric Muse 
 holdirig a medallion of the poet, by Bacon, R. A., with inscription by 
 
 "William Mason, Gray's biographer, who lies next : profile medallion, 
 with inscription by Bishop Hurd. 
 
 Matthew Prior : bust by Coysevox, presented to Prior from Louis 
 XIV. ; and statues of Thalia and Clio, by Rysbrack. 
 
 St. Evremond, the French Epicurean wit : bust and tablet; and be- 
 low it, profile medallion, by Chantrey, R.A., of Granville Sharp, Negro 
 Slavery Abolitionist, erected by the African Institution of London. 
 
 Thomas Shadwell, poet-laureate early in the reign of "William III., 
 buried at Chelsea: bust crowned with bays, above Prior's monument. 
 
 Christopher Anstey, author of the New Bath Guide : tablet on the 
 next column ; and at the back of St. Evremond's monument, a tablet to 
 Mrs. Pritchard, the eminent tragic actress. 
 
 William Shakespeare : the subscription monument; a statue by Schee- 
 makers, after Kent, with absurd and pedantic accessories : the "lines on 
 the scroll are from the play of the Tempest. 
 
 James Thomson, buried in Richmond (Surrey) Church : statue, paid 
 for by a subscription edition of his Seasons, &c. in 1762. 
 
 Nicholas Rowe, dramatist and poet-laureate (George I.), and his 
 daughter Charlotte : busts by Rysbrack; inscription by Pope. 
 
 John Gay, who wrote the Beggar's Opera : winged boy and medal- 
 lion portrait, erected by the Duke and Duchess of Queensbury : the 
 scoffing couplet, " Life's a jest," is Gay's own unworthy composition ; 
 the lines beneath it are by Pope. 
 
 Oliver Goldsmith, poet, dramatist, and essayist : medallion by Nolle- 
 kens, R. A., over doorway to the Chapel of St. Blaise; the place chosen 
 by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; the Latin inscription written by Dr. Johnson. 
 
 John Duke of Argyll (d. 1743) : statues of the warrior and orator as 
 a Roman, with History, Eloquence, Britannia, &c., by Roubiliac. Ca- 
 novasaid of the figure of Eloquence: " This is one of the noblest statues 
 I have seen in England." 
 
 ^ George Frederick Handel, the great musician : statue, beneath a 
 winged harper and stupendous organ ; the last work of Roubiliac, who 
 took the mould from Handel's face after death. Above the niche is a 
 record of the " Commemoration," in 1784; the gravestone is beneath. 
 
 Joseph Addison, buried in Henry VII. 's Chapel: a poor statue 
 on pedestal, by Westmacott, R.A. Addison's visits here are ever to 
 
112 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 be remembered : " When I am in a serious humour," writes he, " I 
 very often walk by myself in Westminster Abbey, where the gloomi- 
 ness of the place, and the use to which it is applied, with the solem- 
 nity of the building, and the condition of the people who lie in it, are 
 apt to fill the mind with a kind of melancholy, or rather thoughtful- 
 ness, that is not disagreeable." 
 
 Isaac Barrow, " the unfair preacher," temp. Charles II. : bust and 
 tablet. Sir Richard Coxe, Taster (of food) to Queen Elizabeth and 
 James I. : marble tablet. Isaac Casaubon, the learned editor of Pernices 
 and Polybius : marble monument. 
 
 Camden, the great English antiquary, and a Master of Westminster 
 School : half-length figure ; buried before St. Nicholas's Chapel. 
 
 David Garrick, the eminent actor : statue, with medallion of Shak- 
 speare ; a coxcombical piece of art, which provoked Charles Lamb to 
 question the fitness of Shakespeare's tragedies for stage representa- 
 tion. 
 
 The most remarkable gravestones in the South Transept are those 
 of Richard Cumberland, Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Samuel Johnson, 
 and David Garrick and his wife ; " Thomas Parr, of ye county of Sal- 
 lop, born in A.D. 1483. He lived in the reignes often princes : viz. King 
 Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard III., King Henry VII., 
 King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, 
 King James, and King Charles ; aged 152 years, and was buryed hero 
 Nov. 15, 1G35;" Sir William Chambers, architect of Somerset House; 
 R. Adam, architect of the Adelphi ; John Henderson, the actor ; James 
 Macpherson, Esq., M.P. (Ossian Macpherson) ; William Gifford, critic; 
 Davenant (inscribed, " O rare Sir William Davenant !"), in the grave of 
 Thomas May, the poet, whose body was disinterred, and his monument 
 destroyed, at the Restoration; Francis Beaumont, "Fletcher's asso- 
 ciate ;" Sir John Denham, K.B., author of Cooper's Hill. 
 
 Near Shakespeare's monument is a bust, by Weekes, of Robert 
 Southey, poet-laureate, (buried in Crosthwaite Church, Keswick) ; and 
 next is the gravestone over Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures 
 of Hope, with an exquisite statue of the poet, by W. C. Marshall. 
 
 Large fees are paid to the Dean and Chapter for the admission of 
 monuments : from 200?. to 3001. for a statue, and from 150Z. to 200?. for 
 a bas-relief; for Lord Holland's monument, 20 feet square, 300?. The 
 statue of Lord Byron, by Thorwaldsen, was refused admission ; and 
 after lying twelve years in the London Dock cellars, in 1845 it was 
 placed 'in the Library of Trinity College, Cambridge. 
 
 On the end of the gallery westward are the remains of a supposed 
 fresco, a White Hart, "couchant, gorged with a gold chain and coro- 
 net," the device of Richard II. 
 
 Painted and Stained Glass. (Ancient.) North Aisle of Nave, 
 figure, said to be Edward the Confessor; South Aisle, given to the 
 Black Prince, Edward III. and Richard II. See also clerestory win- 
 dows east of Choir, east window of Henry VII. 's Chapel, and Jerusa- 
 lem Chamber. (Modern.) Great west window, the Patriarchs ; large 
 rose window. North Transept, Apostles and Evangelists a noble mass 
 of brilliant colour and delicate stone tracery ; marigold window in 
 South Transept, (put up in 1847,) figures nearly three feet high ; also 
 windows above Henry VII.'s Chapel, and in east end of triforium. 
 
 Brasses. The principal are in the Chapels of St. Edmund, St. John 
 the Baptist, and Edward the Confessor. 
 
 Cloisters. South lie four of the early Abbots of Westminster ; and 
 here is " Long Meg," a slab of blue marble, traditionally the gravestone 
 of twenty-six monks who died of the plague in 1349, and were buried 
 in one grave. Here is a tablet to William Lawrence, which records : 
 
CHURCHES : WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 113 
 
 " Short-Hand he wrote : his Flowre in prime did fade, 
 And hasty Death Short Hand of him hath made. 
 Well cooih he Nv'bers, and well mesur'd Land ; 
 Thvs doth he now that Grovd where on yov stand, 
 AVherein he lyes so Geometricall : 
 Art maketh some, bvt thvs will Natvre all." 
 
 This quaint conceit is in the North "Walk ; where also are the graves 
 of Spranger Barry, the actor, famous in Othello, and Sir John Haw- 
 kins, who wrote a History of Music, and a Life of Dr. Johnson. 
 
 East Walk : medallion monument to Bonnell Thornton (" the Con- 
 noisseur"), inscription by Joseph Warton ; monument to Lieut.-Gen. 
 Withers, with inscription by Pope, " full of commonplaces, with some- 
 thing of the common cant of a superficial satirist" (Johnson) ; tablet to 
 Sir Edmondberry Godfrey (d. 1678), buried in St. Martin 's-in-the- 
 Fields; graves of Aphra Behn, the lady dramatist (temp. Charles I.), 
 and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the fascinating actress. 
 
 West Walk: bust and alto-relievo, by Banks, R.A., to William 
 Woollett, the engraver, buried in Old St. Pancras' churchyard : tablets 
 to George Vertue, the engraver ; Dr. Buchan, who wrote on " Domestic 
 Medicine;" and Benjamin Cooke, organist of the Abbey, with the musi- 
 cal score of "the Canon by twofold augmentation" graven upon the slab. 
 In the Cloisters, too, are interred Henry Lawes, the composer of the 
 music of Comus, and " one who called Milton friend ;" Tom Brown, the 
 wit; Thomas Betterton,* who "ought to be recorded with the same 
 respect as Roscius among the Romans;" Samuel Foote, the actor and 
 dramatist ; Mrs. Rowe, Mrs. Gibber, and Mrs. Yates : so that the Clois- 
 ters may be termed the Actors' Corner. 
 
 The present conservating architect of the Abbey is Mr. George 
 Gilbert Scott. The following are the principal Admeasurements : 
 
 Nave. Length, 166ft. ; breadth, 38ft. 7in.; height, 101ft. Sin. ; breadth of aisles, 
 16ft. 7in.; extreme breadth of nave and its aisles, 71ft. 9in. 
 
 Choir. Length, 155ft. 9in.; breadth, 38ft. 4in.; height, 101ft. 2in. 
 
 Transepts. Length of both, including choir, 203ft. 2in. ; length of each tran- 
 sept, 82ft. 5in.; breadth, including both aisles, 84ft. 8in.; height of south transept, 
 105ft. Sin. 
 
 Interior. Extreme length, from western towers to the piers of Henrv VII.'s 
 Chapel, 383ft.; extreme length, from western towers, including Henry VII.'s Cha- 
 pel, 511ft. 6in. 
 
 Exterior. Extreme length, exclusive of Henry VII.'s Chapel, 416ft.; extreme 
 length, inclusive of Henry VII.'s Chapel, 530ft. ; height of western towers, to top 
 of pinnacles, 225ft. 4in. 
 
 Henri/ VII.'s Chapel. (Exterior.) Length, 115ft. 2in. ; extreme breadth, 79ft. 
 6in.; height to apex of roof 85ft. 5in. ; height to top of western turrets, 101ft. 6in. 
 (Interior.) Nave: length, 103ft. 9in.; breadth, 35ft. 9in.; height 60ft. 7in. 
 Aisles: length, 62ft. 5in.; breadth, 17ft. lin. ; height of west window, 45ft. 
 
 Admission. The Abbey is open to the public between the hours of 11 and 3, 
 generally; and in summer, between 4 and 6 in the afternoon. There is no charge 
 for admission to the Nave, Transepts, and Cloisters; but the fee for admission to 
 view the Choir and Chapels, and the rest of the Abbey, is fid. each person, with 
 the attendance of a guide. The entrance is at Poets' Corner. The Admission- 
 money was originally 15rf. each person, when it usually produced upwards of 
 1500Z. per annum, mostly distributed among the minor canons, organists, and lay- 
 clerks. 
 
 Divine Service commences in the church daily, at 10 o'clock in the morning, 
 and at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. Also, daily, (Sundays excepted,) at a quarter 
 before 8 in the morning there is a communion, and at 8 o'clock in the morning 
 every Sunday, except on the first Sunday in the month, when the communion is 
 at the 10-o'clock service. 
 
 * Mrs. Glover, (Julia Betterton,) the comedy actress, who died July 16, 1850, 
 claimed descant from Thomas Betterton; and they met kindred deaths, both a 
 few days after their second farewell benefits : Mrs. Glover through great excite- 
 ment in weak health, and Betterton by a violent remedy for gout ; both, never- 
 theless, performing to prevent disappointment to their audiences. 
 
114 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Music. In 1784 took place the " Commemoration of Handel," in 
 the Abbey nave : and similar festivals in 1785-6-7, and 1790-91 ; and in 
 1834 was a Four Days' Festival, commencing June 24, when King 
 "William IV., Queen Adelaide, and the Princess Victoria were present. 
 " It is full fifty years since I heard last, 
 Handel, thy solemn and divinest strain 
 Boll through the long nave of this pillar'd fane, 
 Now seeming as if scarce a year had pass'd." W. Lisle Bowles, 1834. 
 
 Oct. 28, St. Simon and St. Jude. Anniversary of the birth of 
 Thomas Tallis celebrated ; his Cathedral Service performed at morning 
 prayers. Tallis was organist to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Queen 
 Mary and Elizabeth. 
 
 Coronations. Harold and William the Conqueror were crowned 
 in the new Abbey Church, as were also the succeeding sovereigns to 
 our time. Upon most occasions, the sacred ceremony was followed by 
 a banquet in the Great Hall of the Palace, built by William Rufus. 
 The last of these festivities was that at the Coronation of King George 
 IV., July 19, 1821. On the night previous, the king reposed on a couch 
 in the tapestry-room of the Speaker's official residence in the Old 
 Palace ; and next morning the royal procession advanced by a raised 
 platform, covered by an awning, from Westminster Hall to the Abbey 
 Church, where the king was crowned ; and then returned to the Great 
 Hall, when the banquet was served.* The Coronation of King Wil- 
 liam IV. and Queen Adelaide, Sept. 8, 3831, was simply the Abbey 
 ceremonial ; as was also the Coronation of Queen Victoria, June 28, 
 1838. Upon the latter occasion, temporary reception apartments were 
 erected at the great western entrance to the Abbey Church ; the nave was 
 fitted with galleries and seats for spectators, as were also the choir 
 and transepts ; the peers were seated in the north transept, and the 
 peeresses south ; and the House of Commons in a gallery over the altar; 
 and the orchestra of 400 performers in front of the organ. At the in- 
 tersection of the choir and transepts was the theatre, or pulpitum, 
 covered with rich carpets and cloth of gold, in the centre of which, 
 upon a raised platform, stood the chair of homage. At the north-east 
 corner of the theatre was the pulpit, whence " the Coronation Sermon" 
 was preached. The crowning in St. Edward's Chair took place in the 
 Sacrarium, before the altar, in front of St. Edward's Chapel ; and be- 
 hind the altar was " the Queen's Traverse," or retiring-room. (See 
 " Coronation Chairs," described at p. 107.) 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren built, besides St. Paul's and the western towers 
 of Westminster Abbey, Fifty Churches in the metropolis, at sums vary- 
 ing from less than 2*500Z. to upwards of 15,000/. In " Gothic," or, 
 as Wren proposed to term it, " Saracenic" architecture, Wren was cer- 
 tainly not a successful practitioner ; although in the adaptation of a 
 steeple (a form peculiar to pointed architecture) to Roman buildings, 
 he has manifested much ingenuity, and produced some light and graceful 
 
 * The entire cost of this Coronation is stated to have exceeded a quarter 
 of a million, or more than 268,000*. It has been commemorated in one of the 
 most costly works of pictorial art ever produced the Illustrated History of the 
 Coronation of George IV., by Sir George Nayler: containing forty-five splendidly 
 coloured plates, atlas fclio, price fifty guineas per copy. Sir Georte lost a con- 
 siderable sum by I" 
 the expenses. Sir 
 Coronation for Gen 
 
 contains seventy-three coloured drawings, finished like enamels, on velvet an 
 white satin : the portraits are very accurate likenesses, and many of the coronets 
 have rubies, emeralds, pearls, and brilliants set in gold; each portrait costing 
 fifty guineas, first hand. 
 
 siderable sum by the publication, although Government voted 5000/. towards 
 Sir Geo;ge also undertook a much more costly memorial of this 
 Coronation for George IV., but it was never completed. The portion executed 
 
CHURCHES. 1J5 
 
 forms of almost endless variety. This may be seen by reference to 
 Mr. Cockerell's picturesque grouping of the principal works of Wren : 
 the drawing of which was exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1838, and 
 has been engraved in line by Richardson. 
 
 In the reign of Queen Anne were built or commenced eleven churches. 
 In the next two reigns were completed three large churches, each dis- 
 tinguished by a noble Corinthian portico : viz. St. George's, Blooms- 
 bury ; St. Martin's-in-the-Fields ; and St. George's, Hanover-square. 
 With the exception of St. Peter-le-Poor (1791) and St. Martin's Out- 
 wich (1796), not one church was built from the commencement of the reign 
 of George III. nearly to the Regency, an interval of more than half a 
 century. The two Grecian orders, Doric and Ionic, were then adopted 
 in church-building ; this pseudo-classic style was superseded by the Old 
 English of various periods. The increase of churches did not, however, 
 keep pace with the population ; though the appeals to the public for 
 funds were, in some instances, answered with rare munificence. Thus, 
 in the subscription -list in 1836 for building new churches we find the 
 following donation : " A clergyman seeking for treasure in heaven, 
 50007." 
 
 In 1839, Lord John Russell stated in Parliament, that in London 
 were 34 parishes, with a population of 1,170,000, and church accommo- 
 dation for only 101,000; and in these 34 parishes were only 69 churches, 
 and including proprietary chapels, only 100 places of worship in the 
 whole ; whereas, if we allot a church to every 3000, there ought to be 
 379, leaving a deficiency of 279. In the following year, 1840, the 
 Bishop of London remarked to the House of Lords : 
 
 " If you proceed a mile or two eastward of St. Paul's, you will find yourself in 
 the midst of a population the most wretched and destitute of mankind, consisting 
 of artificers, labourers, beggars, and thieves, to the amount of 300,000 or 400,000 
 souls ! Throughout this entire quarter there is not more than one church for 
 10,000 inhabitants; and in one, nay in two districts, there is but one church for 
 45,000 souls." 
 
 A few years since, the Rev. Dr. Gumming stated that in a radius of 
 eight miles around St. Paul's there was a population of two millions, of 
 whom not more than 60,000 were communicants in any church or chapel 
 whatever. Instead of five-eighths, or 1,300,000, of the population being 
 church-goers, the greatest extent of attendance at any place of worship 
 does not exceed 400,000, and not more than 600,000 could be accom- 
 modated. In a small district of Covent Garden there were 354 houses : 
 338 were of the most wretched description ; these contained 1216 indi- 
 viduals, of whom only 134 attended church ; and in that small locality 
 there were no fewer than 44 shops regularly open on the Sabbath. In 
 some cases there was a population of 100,000 in the parish, with only 
 one rector and one curate. 
 
 These startling statistics led to a " Metropolis Churches Fund," esta- 
 blished in 1836, by which means sixty-three churches have been built and 
 provided for. Meanwhile, a few of the City churches have been taken 
 down : their number, in some cases, has been more than equal to the 
 wants of the citizens, more especially since their private residence out 
 of town. In 1834, Mr. Lambert Jones stated in the Court of Common 
 Council, that the population of the City had within a century decreased 
 one-half; that the number of inhabitants did not then exceed 53,000, 
 and for them were 66 churches. 
 
 We now proceed to notice the more remarkable Churches of the 
 metropolis, and their Curiosities. 
 
 ST. ALBAN'S, Wood-street, Cheapside, is stated to have been named 
 from its belonging to the monastery of St. Alban's. Stow thinks it to 
 be " at least of as antient standing as Kins Adelstane the Saxon (925 
 
116 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 to 941), who, as the tradition says, had his house at the east end of this 
 church," and which gave name to A del-street. Maitland supposes the 
 church to have been one of the first places of worship built in London 
 by Alfred, after he had driven out its destroyers, the Danes. It was 
 rebuilt by Inigo Jones, but destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and 
 rebuilt by Wren in 1685, " Gothic, as the same was before the Fire," 
 with clustered columns, flat-pointed arches, and boldly groined roof. 
 To the right of the reading-desk, within twisted columns, arches, &c., 
 and in a frame richly ornamented with angels sounding trumpets, &c., 
 is an hour-glass, such as was common in churches in the sixteenth and 
 seventeenth centuries, " that when the preacher doth make a sermon, 
 he may know the hour passeth away :" the hour-glass frame and the 
 spiral column upon which it is mounted are of brass. The exterior of 
 the church is ill designed, and has a pinnacled tower 92 feet high. 
 
 ALL SAINTS, New Cut, Lambeth, built in 1846, in the Anglo-Norman 
 style, has a tower and spire 160 feet high, and upwards of 100 feet from 
 the body of the church, with which it is connected by a passage. 
 
 ALL SOULS, Langham-place, built bv Nash in 1822-25, has been 
 much ridiculed, but is suited to its angular plan ; the circular tower, 
 surrounded with Ionic columns, has a Corinthian peristyle above, and 
 a fluted stone cone or spire : it is well adapted to its situation, having 
 the same appearance whichever way viewed. The church contains an 
 altar-picture by R. "Westall, R.A., of Christ crowned with thorns. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS BARKING, at the east end of Tower-street, narrowly 
 escaped the Great Fire of 1666, which burnt the dial and porch and 
 vicarage-house. It contains a curiously-carved communion-table, font- 
 cover, and screen, and some funeral brasses of early date. The head- 
 less bodies of the poet Surrey, Bishop Fisher (More's friend), and Arch- 
 bishop Laud, who were executed on Tower Hill, were interred in All- 
 hallows Church and churchyard, but have been removed. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS THE GREAT, Upper Thames-street, has a richly- 
 carved oak rood-screen the whole width of the church. It was manufac- 
 tured at Hamburgh, and presented in the reign of Queen Anne to the 
 church by the Hanse Merchants, who formerly resided in the parish. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS, Lombard-street, destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, 
 and rebuilt by Wren, contains an exquisitely-sculptured white marble 
 font ; and carved figures of Time and Death, in wood, besides a carved 
 curtain, tvhich seems to hide foliage behind it. The churchyard was 
 closed in the cholera year, 1849, and laid out as a garden. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS STAINING, Mark-lane, escaped the Great Fire, and 
 Stow thinks was called Stane church to distinguish it from others in 
 the City of the same name built of timber. The tower and a portion 
 of the west end alone are ancient. The Princess Elizabeth, on May 19, 
 1554, after her release from the Tower, performed her devotions in 
 this church ; and afterwards is said to have dined off pork and peas at 
 the King's Head in Fenchurch-street, where a metal dish and cover 
 used on the occasion are shewn ; and a commemorative dinner was 
 held annually on Elizabeth's birthday, but discontinued twenty years 
 since. The churchwardens' books contain payments for ringing the 
 bells " for joye of ye execution of ye Queene of Scots ;" also for the re- 
 turn of King James IL from Feversham, and, two days after, on the 
 arrival of the Prince of Orange. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS-IN-THE-WALL, Broad-street "Ward, is named "of 
 standing close to the wall of the City." (Stow.) It was built by Dance, 
 jun., Iv 15-17, and contains an altar-picture, painted and presented by 
 Sir N. Dance, of P. da Cortona's " Ananias restoring Paul to sight." 
 
CHURCHES: ST ANDREW'S UNDERSHAFT. 117 
 
 The parish books (commencing 1455) record the benefactions of an 
 " ancker," or hermit, who lived near the church. 
 
 ST. ALPHAGE, London Wall, escaped the Great Fire of 1666, and was 
 rebuilt in the last century : it has a porch with sculptured heads and 
 pointed arches, a remnant of the ancient Elsing Priory. Its registers 
 record, within a few years, about forty persons in this parish who cer- 
 tified that they had been touched by Charles II. for the evil. 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S, Holborn, was rebuilt by Wren, upon the site of the 
 old church, in 1686 ; the original tower, (date Henry VI.,) 110 feet high, 
 being recased in 1704. It is one of the best-placed churches in London : 
 "for as the west end is nearly at the summit of Holborn-hill, the foun- 
 dation was necessarily continued throughout on this level to the east 
 end in Shoe-lane ; so that the basement is there considerably elevated 
 above the houses." (Godwin.} The interior is rich in gilding and 
 stained glass ; the organ, built by Harris, is that rejected in the com- 
 petition with Father Schmidt's organ for the Temple Church. St. An- 
 drew's has been called " the Poets' Church," from the sons of Song con- 
 nected with it : John Webster, the dramatic poet, a late contemporary 
 of Shakspeare, is said to have been parish-clerk here, but this is not at- 
 tested by the register; Richard Savage was christened here, Jan. 18, 
 1696-7 ; the register records, Aug. 28, 1770, "William" (Thomas) " Chat- 
 terton," with " the poet" added by a later hand, interred in the burial- 
 ground of Shoe-lane Workhouse, now the site of Farringdon Market ; 
 and in the churchyard lies Henry Neele, the gravestone bearing a touch- 
 ing epitaph written by him to his father. Among the eminent rectors 
 of the church were Hacket and Stillingfleet, afterwards bishops ; and 
 Sacheverel, the partisan preacher, who is buried in the chancel. In the 
 south aisle is a tablet to John Emery, the comedian, d. 1822. Some of 
 the registers date from 1558 : the entries for five years, ending 1835, 
 shew a daily average of one marriage, two burials, and three baptisms. 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S UNDERSHAFT, Leadenhall-street, nearly opposite the 
 East India House, a Tudor church, before whose south side was set up 
 on every May -day morning a long shaft or May-pole, which was higher 
 than the church-steeple. It was last raised in 1517, on " Evil May- 
 day," " so called of an insurrection made by apprentices and other 
 young persons against aliens:" it was then hung on iron hooks over 
 the doors and under the "pentices" of Shaft-alley, until, 3d King Ed- 
 
 sermon, and describes how the parishioners in the afternoon lifted the 
 shaft from the hooks whereon it had rested 32 years, sawed it in pieces, 
 " every man taking for his share so much as had lain over his door and 
 stall, the length of his house ; and they of the alley divided among them 
 so much as had lain over their alley-gate" (Stow) : and thus was this 
 idol " mangled and after burned." The present church, rebuilt 1520- 
 1532, consists of a nave and two side aisles, with ribbed and flattened 
 roof, painted and gilt with flowers and shields. The chancel has also 
 paintings of the heavenly choir, landscapes, and buildings. St. Andrew's 
 has much stained glass ; and a large pointed window at the east end of 
 the nave contains whole-length portraits of King Edward VI., Queen 
 Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and Charles II. The church vraspewed 
 soon after 1520. It contains many brasses, tablets, and monuments, 
 the most characteristic of which is that of John Stow,* author of A 
 
 * JOHN STOW was born in the parish of St. Michael, Cornhill, in the year 1525. 
 There is abundant proof that he was by trade a tailor. In 1549, he was dwelling 
 near the well within Aldgate, now known as Aldgate pump ; where the Bailiff 
 
118 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Survey of London (1598). This monument is of terra- cotta, and was 
 erected by Stow's widow ; it contains the figure of the chronicler, once 
 coloured after life : he is seated at a table, pen in hand, with a book 
 before him, and a clasped book on each side of the alcove : above are 
 the arms of Stow's Company, the Merchant Tailors'. In a desk in this 
 church are preserved seven curious old books, mostly in black letter, 
 with a portion of iron chain attached to them, by which they were for- 
 merly secured under open cages. 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S, Wells-street, Marylebone, built by Daukes and Hamil- 
 ton, in 1845-7, is fine Early Perpendicular, and has a tower and spire 
 155 feet high : the musical service is fully performed here. 
 
 ST. ANNE'S, Limehouse, built by Hawksmoor, pupil of Wren, 1712- 
 24, at a cost of 35,000?., has a tower, with four angular turrets, and 
 a more lofty one in the centre, original and picturesque. At 130 feet 
 high is the clock, put up by Messrs. Moore in 1839 : it is the highest in 
 the metropolis, not excepting St. Paul's, and has four dials, each 13 feet in 
 diameter ; the hours being struck on the great bell (38 cwt.), inscribed : 
 
 " At proper times my voice I'll raise, 
 
 And sound to my subscribers' praise." 
 
 The whole of the interior of the church, including a fine organ, was 
 destroyed by an accidental fire on the morning of Good Friday, March 
 29, 1850 ; but has been judiciously restored. 
 
 ST. ANN'S, Soho, was finished in 1686, and occupies a spot formerly 
 called Kemp's Fields. The tower and spire were rebuilt about 1806 
 by the late S. P. Cockerell ; the clock is a whimsical and ugly excres- 
 cence. The interior is very handsome, and has a finely-painted win- 
 dow at the east end. In this church is a tablet to the memory of Theo- 
 dore Anthony NeuhofF, King of Corsica, who died in this parish in 1756, 
 soon after his liberation from the King's Bench Prison by the Act of 
 Insolvency. The friend who gave shelter to this unfortunate monarch, 
 whom nobles could praise when praise could not reach his ear, and who 
 refused to succour him in his miseries, was himself so poor as to be un- 
 able to defray the cost of his funeral. His remains were, therefore, 
 about to be interred as a parish pauper, when one John Wright, an oil- 
 man in Compton-street, declared that he for once would pay the fune- 
 ral expenses of a king, which he did. The tablet was erected at the 
 expense of Horace Walpole, who inscribed upon it : 
 " The grave, great teacher, to a level brings 
 
 Heroes and beggars, galley-slaves and kings ; 
 
 But THEODORE this moral learn'd ere dead ; 
 
 Fate pour'd its lesson on his living head, 
 
 Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread." 
 
 ST. ANTHONY'S (St. Antholin's or St. Antling's), in Bridge-row, at 
 
 of Rumford was, to use Stow's own words, "executed upon the pavement of my 
 door, where I then kept house." Amidst the toils of business, Stow wrote his 
 Chronicles, hisAnnales, and his Survey, a " simple and unadorned picture of Lon- 
 don at the close of the 16th and commencement of the 17th century ;" besides 
 other works, printed and manuscript, which, to use his own words, " cost him 
 many a weary mile's travel, many a hard-earned penny and pound, and many a 
 cold winter night's study." He enjoyed the patronage of Archbishop Parker, 
 the friendship of Lambarde, and the respect of Camden ; yet he fell into poverty, 
 and all he could obtain from his sovereign, James I., for the toil of near half a 
 century, was a license to beg ! Stow died a twelvemonth after, on the 6th of 
 April, 1605, in the parish of St. Andrew Undershaft, and was buried on April 8 : 
 but, according to Maitland, in the year 1732, certain men removed Stow's 
 " corpse, to make way for another." His collections for the Chronicles of Eng- 
 land, occupying 60 quarto volumes, are now in the British Museum. Of the 
 various editions of Stow's Survey, it may suffice to commend to the reader's notice 
 the reprint from the edition of 1603, carefully edited by W. J. Thorns, F.S.A. 1842. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. BARTHOLOMEW. 119 
 
 the corner of Size-lane, is of ancient foundation, being mentioned in the 
 twelfth century. The church was rebuilt about 1399 and 1513 ; and 
 being destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, was rebuilt by Wren in 1682, 
 when the parish of St. John Baptist, Watling-street, was annexed to 
 that of St. Antholin. The interior has an oval dome, supported on 
 eight columns ; and the carpentry of the roof is a fine specimen of 
 Wren's constructive skill. The exterior has a tower rising directly from 
 the ground, with an octagonal spire, terminating with a Composite 
 capital, at the height of 154 feet. In 1559, there was established, " after 
 Geneva fashion," at St. Antholin's, an early prayer and lecture, the bells 
 for which began to ring at five in the morning. This service is referred 
 to by our early dramatists, and the preacher (a Puritan) and the bell of 
 St. Antlin's were proverbially loud and lengthy. The chaplains of the 
 Commissioners from the Church of Scotland to King Charles, in 1640, 
 preached here; and " curiosity, faction, and humour," drew such crowds, 
 that on Sundays, from daybreak to nightfall, the church was never 
 empty. The Churchwardens' accounts present (in an unbroken series,) 
 the parish expenditure for nearly three centuries. 
 
 ST. BARNABAS', Queen-street, Pimlico, is a portion of a College 
 founded on St. Barnabas' Day, 1846, including schools and residentiary 
 house for the clergy, upon ground presented by the first Marquis of 
 Westminster. The buildings are in the Early Pointed style (Cundy, ar- 
 chitect) ; and the church has a Caen-stone tower and spire 170 feet high, 
 with a peal of ten bells, the gifts of as many parishioners. The windows 
 throughout are filled with stained glass by Wailes of Newcastle, the 
 subjects from the life of St. Barnabas. The open roof is splendidly 
 painted ; the rood dividing the choir from the chancel, and other fittings, 
 are entirely of oak ; the lectern is a brass eagle : the superb altar-plate, 
 the font, illuminated office-books, the corona lucis in the chancel, and 
 other costly ornaments, are the gifts of private individuals. The funds 
 have been ' contributed by the inhabitants of the district of St. Paul, 
 Knightsbridge, through the pious zeal of the Rev. W. G. Bennett, the 
 incumbent. There is an organ by Flight, of great richness, variety, and 
 power ; and full choral service is performed. During the Anti-Papal 
 agitation towards the close of 1850, this church was more than once 
 the scene of disgraceful interruption by intolerant mobs, who, but for 
 the intrepidity of the officiating clergy, would have set aside the right 
 to undisturbed worship. The church was consecrated by the Bishop of 
 London, on St. Barnabas' Day, (June 11,) 1850. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT, in West Smithfield, is part of the 
 ancient Priory of St. Bartholomew the Great, founded about 1102, by 
 Rahere, the King's Minstrel, who became first Prior. The Choir is 
 Norman, and resembles the earlier portions of Winchester Cathedral, 
 distinguished by semicircular arches and billet moulding ; the clerestory 
 above the triforium having pointed windows of later date. A large 
 bay or oriel bears the rebus of a bolt, or arrow from the cross-bow, and 
 a tun, of Bolton, who was Prior from 1506 to 1532. The roof is of tim - 
 ber, divided into compartments by a tie-beam and king-post, supported 
 by brackets. Portions of the nave and transepts are also ancient ; but 
 the brick tower bears the date 1628. The nave is supposed to have 
 originally extended to the house-fronts in Smithfield, where is a stone 
 archway, with a dog's-tooth ornament ; vestiges of the old foundations 
 occur in the churchyard, within a few feet of the surface ; and in the 
 church other portions of the original building remain. Among the 
 monuments is Rahere's, in elegant Perpendicular style, with the effigy 
 of the Prior, an angel and monks, beneath a canopy. Besides the 
 church, (which is comparatively little known,) a cloister and crypt of 
 
120 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Priory exist ;* and the great Close, though now covered with mo- 
 dern buildings, bears the name Bartholomew Close. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE LESS is the parish church of the precinct 
 of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, and escaped the Great Fire, but has 
 been twice rebuilt, the tower alone being ancient. The memorials pre- 
 served from the old church include two floor brasses of Robert Bal- 
 thrope, serjeant-surgeon to Queen Elizabeth, (d. 1591.) 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW BY THE EXCHANGE, rebuilt by Wren after the 
 Great Fire of 1666, mostly with the old masonry, was taken down in 
 1840 : the tower was in eccentric taste, appearing as though the upper 
 part had been blown down, and a door- way or window-frame been left 
 on each side. Here was buried Miles Coverdale, our first translator of 
 the Bible, whose remains were removed to St. Magnus' Church, London 
 Bridge, on the taking down of St. Bartholomew's. 
 
 ST. BENET'S (Benedict), Gracechurch-street, was called Grass- 
 church, because the herb-market was held nearly opposite the western 
 door of the ancient church, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; but 
 upon the same site was completed the present church, by "Wren, in 
 1685. The height of the tower and spire, at the west angle," is 149 feet. 
 In the parish books, at the accession of Queen Mary, 1553, appears : 
 
 " Paid to a plasterer, for washing oute and defacing of such Scriptures as in the 
 tyme of King Edward VI. were written ahout the chirche and walls, 3s.4d. ;" and 
 " Paid to the paynters for making ye Roode, with Mary and John. 6/." While in 
 the first year of Queen Elizabeth, 155S. is " Payd to a carpenter for pulling downe 
 the Roode and Mary, 4s. 2d. :" '' Paid three labourers, one day, for pulling down the 
 altars and John, 2s. 4d." In 1642 we find them selling the' superstitious brasses 
 taken off the gravestones for 9s. 6d. Malcolm's Londini urn Sedirirum, i. p. 316. 
 
 ST. BEXNET FINK, named from Robert Finke, the original founder, 
 (as also of Finch-lane adjoining,) was destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 1666, rebuilt by Wren, but taken down in 1842-44. The remains were 
 sold by auction, Jan. 15, 1846, when lot 12, the carved oak poor-box, 
 with lock, c. (date on the lock, 1683), fetched four guineas; and lot 
 17, the carved and panelled oak pulpit, with sounding-board, &c., fifteen 
 guineas. The paintings of Moses and Aaron, the carved and panelled 
 oak fittings of the altar, marble floor, and the two tablets with inscrip- 
 tions in gold, were purchased for 507. 
 
 ST. BOTOLPH'S is situate without the walls of London, near one of the 
 ancient entrances to the City, supposed to have been built by a bishop, 
 and thence called Bishopsgate. The old church narrowly escaped the 
 Great Fire of 1666, and was rebuilt in 1725-29 by James Gold ; its pecu- 
 liarity is, that the tower rises at the east end, in Bishopsgate-street, 
 and the lower part forms the chancel. The living is the richest in the 
 City and Liberties of London. In the chancel is the monument to Sir 
 Paul Pindar, whose residence in Bishopsgate-street Without is now the 
 Sir Paul Pindar's Head public-house. He was a rich merchant (temp. 
 James I. and Charles I.), and, like many other good subjects, was ruined 
 by his attachment to the latter monarch. He was charitable and hos- 
 pitable, and often gave " the parish venison"f for public dinners : yet 
 the parishioners made him pay for a license for eating flesh. 
 
 ST. BOTOLPH, ALDGATE, at the corner of Houndsditch, opposite 
 the Minories, was rebuilt by G. Dance, 1741-44. It contains monu- 
 ments of good sculpture to Lord Dacre, beheaded 1537 ; and Sir Nicholas 
 Carew, of Beddington, beheaded 1538; also an effigies monument to 
 
 * See " Vestiges of Old London," by J. W. Archer, part v. 1851. 
 
 t Sir Paul appears to have presented the parish yearly with a venison pasty; 
 for in 1634 we find charged in the parish books 19s. Id. for the mere " flour, 
 butter, pepper, eggs, making, and baking." Another curious entry is in 1578: 
 " Paid for frankincense and flowers, when the Chancellor sate with us, 11s." 
 
CHURCHES: ST BRIDE'S. 121 
 
 Robert Dowe, who left the St. Sepulchre's Bell, &c. (see page 38). In 
 the churchyard is a tomb inscribed with Persian characters, of which 
 Stow gives the following account : 
 
 "August 10, 1626. In Petty France [a part of the cemetery unconsecrated], 
 out of Christian burial, was buried Hodges Shaughsware, a Persian merchant, 
 who with his son came over with the Persian ambassador, and was buried by his 
 own son, who read certaia prayers, and used other ceremonies, according to the 
 custom of their own country, morning and evening, for a whole month after the 
 burial ; for whom is set up, at the charge of his son, a tomb of stone with certain 
 Persian characters thereon, the exposition thus : This grave is made for Hodges 
 Shaughsware, the chiefe&t servant to the King of Persia for the space of twenty 
 years, who came from the King of Persia, and died in his service. If any Per- 
 sian cometh out of that country, let him read this and a prayer for him. The Lord 
 receive his soul, for here lieth Maghmote Shaughsware, who was born in the 
 town Novoy, in Persia." (Stow's Survey, ed. 1633, p. 173.) 
 
 Bow CHURCH, Cheapside. (See ST. MARY-LE-BOW.) 
 ST. BRIDE'S, or St. Bridget, Fleet-street, was built by Wren, upon 
 the site of the old church, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It was 
 completed in 1703, cost 11,430/., and is remarkable for its graceful 
 steeple, which, as left by Wren, was 234 feet high. In June 1764 it 
 was so damaged by lightning, that it was found requisite to take down 
 eighty-five feet of the stone-work, and in restoring it, the height was 
 lowered eight feet : the whole cost was 3,000/. In 1803 the steeple was 
 again struck by lightning : " The metal vane, the cramps with which 
 the masonry was secured, and the other ironwork employed in the con- 
 struction, led the electric fluid down the steeple, in the absence of any 
 continued or better conductor; and as at each point where the connexion 
 was broken off, a violent disruption necessarily ensued, the stonework was 
 rent in all parts, and projected from its situation. One stone, weighing 
 nearly eighty pounds, was thrown over the east end of the church, and 
 fell on the roof of a house in Bride-lane ; while another was forced from 
 the bottom of the spire, through the roof of the church, into the north 
 gallery." (Godwins Churches of London, vol. ii.) The Philosophical 
 Transactions for 1764 also contains two scientific investigations of the 
 above damage. The upper part was, for a long time, preserved on the 
 premises of a mason in Old-street Road. The entire spire is one of 
 Wren's most beautiful designs, and consists of four stories, the two 
 lower Tuscan, the third Ionic, and the fourth Composite, terminating 
 in an obelisk, with a ball and vane. In height and lightness it approaches 
 nearer to the exquisite spires of the pointed style than any other ex- 
 ample ; the details, however, (in Portland stone,) are hastening to decay. 
 In the north face of the tower is a transparent clock-dial, first lit with 
 gas in 1827, and one of the earliest of the kind in the metropolis. The 
 interior is handsome ; the great eastern window, above the altar, is filled 
 with a copy, in stained glass, of Rubens's " Descent from the Cross," in 
 Antwerp Cathedral: this was executed by Mr. Muss in 1824-5, and is 
 a fine production. The marble font bears the date 1615. Richardson, 
 the author of Clarissa Harlowe, and who printed his own novels in 
 Salisbury-square, is buried in the church ; and in the porch, beneath 
 the tower, is a tablet to Alderman Waithman (interred here), who 
 sat in five parliaments for the City of London. The registers of St. 
 Bride's were saved at the destruction of the first church ; they com- 
 mence from 1587 : and the vestry-books, which date from 1653, minutely 
 chronicle the Great Fire, a relic of which is the doorway into Mr. 
 Holden's vault, to the right of entering from Bride-passage. In the 
 old church were buried Wynkin de Worde, whose printing-office was 
 in Fleet-street ; Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset (d. 1608), the poet, 
 who commenced " The Mirrour for Magistrates ;" Sir Richard Baker, 
 the chronicler, who died in the Fleet Prison, 1644-5 j Richard Lovelace, 
 
122 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the poet, who died a broken cavalier, " very poor in body and purse,'* 
 in Gunpowder-alley, Shoe-lane, in 1658. The register also records the 
 burial of Ogilby, the translator of Homer (d. 1676) ; and Mary Carlton, 
 or Frith, the "English Mall" of Hudibras, alias Moll Cutpurse, an 
 infamous cheat and pickpocket, hanged at Tyburn 1672-3. The church 
 and its elegant spire was hidden by houses until after a destructive fire 
 in Bride-passage on Nov. 14, 1824:, when an avenue was opened from 
 Fleet-street : it was designed by J. B. Pap worth, and the improvement 
 cost 10,000/., of which Mr. Blades, of Ludgate-hill, advanced 6,OOOJ. 
 
 ST. CATHERINE CKEE, (or Christ Church,) on the north side of 
 Leadendall- street, was rebuilt in the year 1629, and consecrated by 
 Laud, Bishop of London, Jan. 16, 1630-31 ; when persons were stationed 
 at the doors of the church to call with a loud voice on his approach, 
 " Open, open, ye everlasting doors, that the King of Glory may enter 
 in." When Laud had reached the interior, he fell on his knees, and lifting 
 his hands, exclaimed, " This place is holy, the ground is holy ; in the 
 name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, I pronounce it holy ;" then 
 throwing dust from the ground into the air, he bowed to the chancel, 
 and went in procession round the church. These and other ceremonies, 
 fully described in Rushworth, were made grave accusations against Laud, 
 and brought about his death. The present church is debased Gothic 
 and Corinthian. Among the monuments removed from the old church 
 is a canopied figure of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton, (d. 1570,) from whom 
 Throgmorton-street is named. Hans Holbein (d. 1554,) is also stated to 
 have been buried in the first church. By the will of Sir John Gager, 
 Lord Mayor in 1646, provision is made for a sermon to be annually 
 preached on the 16th of October, in St. Catherine Cree's Church, in com- 
 memoration of his happy deliverance from a lion, which he met in a 
 desert whilst travelling in the Turkish dominions, and which suffered 
 him to pass unmolested. 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, Broadway, Westminster, was designed in 1842, in 
 the Early Pointed style, by Poynter, upon the site of the former New 
 Chapel. It has some good stained glass by Willement, especially in the 
 centre window. The New Chapel was built about 1631 ; Archbishop 
 Laud contributing to the funds 10001. and some most curious glass. At 
 the Rebellion, Sir Robert Harley defaced the windows, laid the painted 
 glass in heaps upon the ground, and trod it to pieces, calling his sacri- 
 legious antics " dancing a jig to Laud." The troopers of the Com- 
 monwealth stabled their chargers in the church aisles ; and Cromwell 
 and his officers are said to have used it as a council-room. In the 
 adjacent ground was buried Sir William Waller, (d. 1688,) the famous 
 Parliamentarian General in the Civil Wars. On June 26, 1739, Margaret 
 Patten was interred here, at the age of 136 years : she was born at 
 Lochborough, near Paisley, and was brought to England to prepare 
 Scotch broth for lung James II.; but after his abdication, she fell into 
 poverty, and died in St. Margaret's Workhouse, where her portrait is 
 preserved. " None would recognise the description given of this burial- 
 ground now so crowded upon by houses towards the beginning of the 
 last century, that it was 'the pleasantest churchyard all about London 
 and Westminster.' " ( Walcott's Westminster, p. 286.) 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, Highbury, built by T. Allom, in 1848, has a 
 tower and spire in the angle between the north transept and nave, the 
 spire having gabled and crocketted lucarnes. Internally, the plan is 
 equally novel, in the centre becoming an octagon of eight arches, so 
 as to allow the pulpit and reading-desk, placed againt the pillars of the 
 chancel arch, to be distinctly seen from all parts of the church. 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, Newgate-street, was built by Wren, 
 
CHURCHES: ST. CLEMENT'S DANES. 123 
 
 1687 and 1704, and occupied part of the site of the ancient Grey Friars' 
 Church, destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. The tower rises directly 
 from the ground, and with the steeple is 153 feet high ; the basement- 
 story being open on three sides, and forming a porch to the church. 
 A large gallery at the west end is appropriated for the Christ Church 
 Boys ; and here, since 1797, have been preached the " Spital Sermons." 
 In 1799, the Spital Sermon on Easter Tuesday was preached by the 
 celebrated Dr. Parr, who occupied nearly three hours in its delivery. 
 
 The SPITAL SERMONS originated in an old custom by which some learned per- 
 son was appointed yearly by the Bishop of London to preach at St. Paul's Cross, on 
 Good Friday, on the subject of " Christ's Passion :" on the Monday, Tuesday, 
 and Wednesday following, three other divines were appointed to uphold the doc- 
 trines of " The Resurrection" at the Pulpit Cross in the " Spital" (Spitalfields). 
 On the Sunday following, a fifth preached at Paul's Cross, and passed judgment 
 upon the merits of those who had preceded him. At these Sermons, the Lord 
 Mayor and Aldermen attended ; ladies also on the Monday forming part of the 
 procession; and at the close of each day's solemnity, his Lordship and the Sheriffs 
 
 fave a private dinner to such of their friends among the Aldermen as attended the 
 ermon. From this practice, the civic festivities at Easter were at length ex- 
 tended to a magnificent scale. The children of Christ's Hospital took part in the 
 above solemnities ; so that, in 1594, when it became necessary to rebuild the 
 Pulpit Cross at the Spital, a gallery was erected also for their accommodation. In 
 the Great Rebellion, the pulpit was destroyed, and the Sermons were discontinued 
 till the Restoration; after which, the three Spital Sermons, as they were still 
 called, were revived at St. Bride's Church, in Fleet Street. They have since 
 been reduced to two, and from 1 797 have been delivered at Christ Church, Newgate- 
 street. It was at their first appearance at the Spital that the children of Christ's 
 Hospital wore the blue costume by which they have since been distinguished. 
 Instead of the subjects which were wont to be discussed from the Pulpit Cross of 
 St. Mary Spital, discourses are now delivered commemorative of the objects of 
 the five sister Hospitals ; and a Report is read of the number of children maintained 
 and educated, and of sick, disorderly, and lunatic persons for whom provision is 
 made in each respectively. On each day, the boys of Christ's Hospital, with the 
 legend " j^e is risen" attached to their left shoulders, form part of the civic 
 procession ; walking on the first day in the order of their schools, the King's Boys 
 bearing their nautical instruments ; and on the second, according to their several 
 wards, headed by their nurses. (Abridged from the Rev. Mr. Trollope's History 
 of Christ's Hospital. See also page 82 of the present volume.) 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, Spitalfields, (originally a hamlet of St. Dunstan's, 
 Stepney,) was built by Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and consecrated 
 July 5, 1729. It is entirely of stone, very massive, and has one of the 
 loftiest spires in London, 225 feet high, or 23 feet higher than the 
 Monument. It contains a peal of twelve bells, scarcely inferior in power 
 and sweetness to any in the kingdom, the tenor weighing 4,928 Ibs. 
 It has a large organ, the master-piece of Bridge, containing 2,126 pipes. 
 Here is a monument to Sir Robert Ladbroke, a whole-length figure, 
 in the full dress of Lord Mayor : one of the early works of Flaxman. 
 This church was greatly injured by fire on Feb. 17, 1836, shortly after 
 the parishioners had finished paying 8000Z. for repairs. On the morning 
 of Jan. 3, 1841, the spire and roof of this church were greatly damaged 
 by lightning, at ten minutes before seven, when the clock stopped. 
 The lightning struck the cone, or upper part of the spire ; thence it 
 descended to a room above the clock-room, forcing the trap-door from 
 the hinges down to the floor, melting the iron wires connected with 
 the clock, scorching the wooden rope-conductors, breaking many of the 
 windows, and making a considerable fracture in the wall, where the 
 lightning is supposed to have escaped. The roof was partially covered 
 with large stones, which broke in the lead- work by their weight in falling; 
 and the lead near the injured masonry was melted in several places. 
 
 ST. CLEMENT'S DANES, Strand, the first church west of Temple 
 Bar, is said by Stow to have been so called " because Harold, a Danish 
 king, and other Danes, were buried there." Strype gives another 
 
124 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 reason : that the few Danes left in the kingdom married English wo- 
 men, and compulsorily lived between Westminster and Ludgate ; and 
 there built a synagogue, called " Ecclesia dementis Danorum.'' This 
 account Fleetwood, the antiquary, Recorder of London in the reign of 
 Elizabeth, reported to the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, who lived in this 
 parish. The body of the old church was taken down in 1680, and rebuilt 
 to the old tower in 1632, by Edward Pierce, under the gratuitous direc- 
 tions of Wren, as recorded on a marble slab in the north aisle. In 1719, 
 Gibbs added the present tower and steeple, about 116 feet high, with a 
 peal of ten bells. The clock strikes the hours twice; "the hour being 
 first struck on a larger bell, and then repeated on a smaller one, so 
 that has the first been miscounted, the second may be more correctly 
 observed." (A. Thomson's Time and Timekeepers, p. 77.) In addition 
 to the clock is a set of chimes, which play the old 104th Psalm, though 
 somewhat crazily. In the church are buried Otway and Nat. Lee, the 
 dramatic poets ; and Rymer, compiler of the Fcedera, &c. 
 
 ST. DIOMS', BACKCHURCH (behind the line of Fenchurch-street), 
 is the third church upon this site, and was rebuilt by Wren after the 
 Great Fire of 1666 : it has a tower 90 feet high. In the vestry -room 
 are preserved four of the large syringes at one time the only engines 
 used in London for the extinction of fires ; they are about 2 feet 3 inches 
 long, and were attached by straps to the body of the fireman. 
 
 ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE EAST, between Tower-street and Upper 
 Thames-street, was nearly destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, and 
 was restored by "Wren in 1698 : it has a stone tower and spire, sup- 
 ported on four arched ribs, springing from the angles of the tower : this 
 is Wren's best work in the Pointed style ; but it closely resembles the 
 spire of St. Nicholas's Church, at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, built in the 
 fifteenth century. John Carter, however, says : " St. Nicholas's tower 
 is so lofty, and of such a girth, that, to compare great things with 
 small, our London piece of vanity is but a mole-hill to the Newcastle 
 ' mountain,' the pride and glory of the northern hemisphere." There 
 is a tradition, that the plan of St. Dunstan's tower and spire was fur- 
 nished by the architect's daughter, Jane Wren, who died in 1702, aged 
 26, and was buried under the choir of St. Paul's Cathedral. Lady Dio- 
 nysia Williamson, in 1670, gave 4000J. towards the rebuilding of St. 
 Dunstan's. After the dreadful storm in London through the night 
 of the 26th November, 1703, Wren hearing next morning that some 
 of the steeples and pinnacles had been damaged, quickly replied, " Not 
 St. Dunstan's, I'm quite sure." The old church had a lofty leaden 
 steeple. The body of the present church was rebuilt of Portland stone, 
 in the Perpendicular style, by Laing and Tite, in 1817. The interior 
 is divided into three aisles by clustered columns and pointed arches. 
 The east window represents symbolically the Law and the Gospel; 
 the north, Christ Blessing Little Children ; and the south, the Adora- 
 tion of the Magi. In the vestry is a wood carving, by Gibbons, of 
 the arms of Archbishop Tenison. In the south churchyard is a Rookery. 
 (See BIRDS, p. 47.) 
 
 ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE WEST, Fleet-street, was designed by John 
 Shaw, F.R.S. and F.S.A., in 1831-33, set back 30 feet from the site of 
 the former church, which projected considerably beyond the street-line. 
 It just escaped the Great Fire of 1666, which stopped within three 
 houses of it ; as did also another fire in 1730. A view in 1739 shews the 
 oldest portion to be the tower and bell-turret, the latter containing a 
 small bell which was rung every morning at a quarter before seven 
 o'clock. The body of the church is Italianised Gothic, with battle- 
 ments and circular -headed windows ; shops with overhanging signs are 
 
CHURCHES: ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE WEST. 125 
 
 built against the south and east walls, though previously the church- 
 yard was thus built in, and was a permanent station for booksellers, 
 as appears by many imprints. Thus, " Epigrams by H. P.," &c. " and 
 are to be soulde by John Helme, at his shoppe in St. Dunstan's Church- 
 yarde, 1608, qto." John Smethwick had " his shop in St. Dunstan's 
 Church-yard, in Fleet-street, under the Diall;" and here, in 1653, 
 Richard Marriott published the first edition of Walton's Angler, for 
 18d. The church clock was one of London's wonders : it had a large 
 gilt dial, overhanging Fleet-street, and above it two figures of savages, 
 of life-size, carved in wood, and standing within an alcove, each having 
 in his right hand a club, with which they struck the quarters upon two 
 suspended bells, moving their heads at the same time. This clock and 
 figures were the work of Mr. Thomas Harrys, in 1671, then living at 
 the lower end of Water-lane, who received for his work 351. with the 
 old clock, and the sum of 4:1. per annum to keep the whole in repair.* 
 Originally, the clock was within a square ornamented case, with a semi- 
 circular pediment, and the tube from the church to the dial was sup- 
 ported by a carved figure of Time, with expanded wings, as a bracket ; 
 when altered, in 1738, it cost the parish 1101. Strype calls the figures 
 " two savages, or Hercules ;" Ned Ward, " the two wooden horolo- 
 gists ;" and Cowper, in his Table Talk, likens a lame poet to 
 '' When labour and when dulness, club in hand, 
 Like the two figures at St. Dunstan's, stand." 
 
 In 1766, the elegant statue of Queen Elizabeth, which stood on the 
 west side of Ludgate, was put up at the east end of St. Dunstan's 
 Church ; and the other figures, King Lud and his two sons, were deposited 
 in the parish bone-house. The old church was taken down in December 
 1829, when the materials were sold by auction : the bell-turret for 
 10s.; the flag and flag-staff for 12s.; and an iron standard, with copper 
 vane, warranted 850 years old (?), weighing three-quarters of a cwt. was 
 sold for 21. Is. At another sale, in 1830, the statue of Queen Elizabeth 
 was knocked down for 16/. 10s., and a stained-glass window for 4/. 5s. 
 The clock, figures, &c. were purchased by the late Marquis of Hertford, 
 and placed in the grounds of his villa in the Regent's Park, where they 
 strike the hours and quarters to this day. The new church of St. Dun- 
 stan was consecrated July 31, 1833, which the architect did not live to 
 witness, he having died July 30, 1832, the twelfth day after the exter- 
 nal completion of the edifice.f It is in the latest Pointed style, and has 
 a lofty tower, surmounted by an elegant lantern, 130 feet high, (of 
 Ketton stone,) different from any other in the metropolis, but resem- 
 bling St. Botolph's, Boston, Lincolnshire ; St. Helen's, York ; and St. 
 George's, at Ramsgate, built in 1825. Over the entrance-porch are 
 sculptured the heads of Tyndale, the Reformer ; and Dr. Donne, who 
 was once vicar of the church : they are considered faithful portraits. 
 Above is a clock, with three dials, curiously coloured and gilt in the em- 
 bellished taste of the architectural period ;" and a belfry, with eight fine 
 bells from the old church, the sound of which receives effect from the 
 four large upper windows, which are the main features of the tower. The 
 enriched stone lantern is perforated with Gothic windows of two heights ; 
 the whole being terminated by an ornamental, pierced, and very rich 
 crown parapet. The body of the church is of octagon form, and has eight 
 
 * So early as 1478 there was a similar piece of mechanism in Fleet-street. 
 Stow describes a conduit erected in the above year, near Shoe-lane, with angels 
 having " sweet-sounding bells before them; whereupon, by an engine placed in 
 the tower, they, divers hours of the day and night, with hammers chimed such 
 an hymn as was appointed," There is, we believe, a like contrivance to that at 
 St. Dunstan's, in Norwich Cathedral. (See also Paul's Jacks, p. 86.) 
 
 t The interior was finished by his son, John Shaw. 
 
126 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 recesses, with as many windows above, containing good stained glass. 
 The roof is formed by eight iron spandrel- beams, projecting from an 
 angle towards the centre, and there connected by an iron ring ; and from 
 the enriched key-stone hangs the chandelier. The northern recess con- 
 tains the altar-table, of oak elaborately carved; and the altar-piece pre- 
 sents three admirably carved canopies, of foreign workmanship. Above 
 is a large pointed window, filled with stained glass, by "Williment, in 
 the ancient manner : it contains figures of the Evangelists ; the crown 
 of thorns and the nails ; the spear and sponge upon a reed ; the Holy 
 Lamb ; and the inscription, in black letter, " Deo et ecclesiae fratres 
 Hoare dicaverunt, anno Domini MDCCCXXXII." This is, altogether, 
 one of the most elegant church interiors in the metropolis. In May 
 1839, the statue of Queen Elizabeth, already mentioned, was placed 
 in a niche, flanked with two pilasters, above the doorway of the pa- 
 rochial schools, east of the principal entrance to the church. On 
 the west side is the Law Life Insurance Office, designed by John 
 Shaw, in the style that prevailed between the last period of Pointed 
 architecture, (of which St. Dunstan's Church is an example,) and the 
 complete revival of the architecture of Greece and Rome. In the old 
 church was a large hour-glass, in silver frame; of the latter, in 1723, 
 two heads were made for the parish staves. The Rev. "William Romaine 
 was rector of the old church* in 1749, when it was generally so crowded 
 that the pew-opener's place was worth 50Z. per annum. 
 
 ST. DUNSTAN'S, Stepney, a Perpendicular church, is famed in story 
 for its legend of " The Fish and Ring," and the popular ballad of " The 
 Cruel Knight, or Fortunate Farmer's Daughter :" her identity is re- 
 ferred to Lady Berry, whose tomb is on the outer east wall, with the 
 fish and amulet in the arms thereon : but the finding of a ring in a fish 
 is an incident of much greater antiquity than Lady Berry's time (1696), 
 and occurs in the Arabian Nights Entertainments. The churchyard 
 is noticed in the Spectator, by Steele, for the number and oddity of 
 its epitaphs: here lies the father of Dr. Mead, who was born over the 
 antique brick gateway opposite the rectory, and first began practice 
 here; also Rev. W. Tickers, author of the Companion to the Altar; 
 and Roger Crab, who lived long on bran, dock-leaves, grass, and water. 
 Within the church is the splendid tomb of Sir H. Colet, Lord Mayor 
 in 1486 and 1495, and father of the founder of St. Paul's School. Here 
 also is a marble monument of the Good Samaritan, by Sir R. "Westma- 
 cott, R.A., to B. Kenton, Esq. (d. 1800), leaving 63,500Z. to charity 
 schools, and 30,000/. to his friends. In the western porch is a stone 
 reputed to have been brought from the wall of Carthage. In 1625 and 
 1665, died at Stepney of the Plague 9,561 persons. 
 
 ST. EDMUND'S (the King and Martyr), Lombard-street, has also 
 been called St. Edmund's Grass Church, because of a grass-mar- 
 ket held here: whence Grasschurch-street, now Gracechurch-street. 
 The church was destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren : it 
 has a tower and incongruous steeple, 90 feet high, and a projecting 
 bracket clock. The altar-piece has some fine carvings, and two paint- 
 ings of Moses and Aaron, executed by William Etty, in 1833 : above is 
 a stained glass window, with the arms of Queen A'nne, " set up in the 
 memorable year of union, 1707 ;" besides two other stained glass win- 
 dows, of superior excellence, representing St. Paul and St. Peter. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, Hanover-square, was completed by John James in 
 1724; the parish being taken out of St. Martin's-in-the- Fields. St. 
 George's is built upon ground given by Lieut-Gen. "W. Stewart : it 
 has a stately and august Corinthian portico, and a handsome and well- 
 
 Historical Account of the old Church, by the Rev. J. F. Denham, M.A. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR. 127 
 
 proportioned steeple ; still, it can only be viewed in profile ; but " were 
 it not for two or three intervening houses, it would be seen in the 
 noblest point of sight in the world." The interior has a large altar- 
 picture of the Last Supper, attributed to Sir James Thornhill ; above 
 it is a painted window, foreign, of the 16th century, with the Virgin 
 and Child, the Crucifixion, ecclesiastical personages, masonic emblems, 
 &c. ; the altar-piece in its sculptured framework, and the painted glass 
 in its architectural recess, is effective ; but this Gothic window in a Ro- 
 man church is a glaring absurdity. 
 
 " The view down George-street, from the upper side of Hanover-square, is one 
 of the most entertaining in the whole city : the sides of the square, the area in 
 the middle, the breaks of building that form the entrance of the vista, but above 
 all, the beautiful projection of the portico of St. George's Church, are all cir- 
 cumstances that unite in beauty, and make the scene perfect." Ralph. 
 
 St. George's, Hanover-square, also possesses a burial-ground at a 
 short distance on the Bayswater-road. Here is the grave of Sterne, 
 with a stone set up by two "Brother Masons:" where too lies Sir 
 Thomas Picton, who fell at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. (See 
 BAYSWATER, p. 35.) 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, Hart-street, Bloomsbury, was designed by Nicholas 
 Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and was consecrated in 1731 ; a district 
 for its parish being taken out of that of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. This 
 church is remarkable for standing north and south ; the tower and 
 steeple are placed by the side of the main edifice, the favourite practice 
 of Palladio. Upon the tower, on the four sides, rises a range of unat- 
 tached Corinthian pillars and pediments; above is a series of steps, with 
 lions and unicorns at the corners, guarding the royal arms, and which 
 supports at the apex, on a short column, a statue, in Roman costume, 
 of George I. The design is from Pliny's description of the first mauso- 
 leum, the tomb of King Mausolus,in Caria. Walpole calls this steeple a 
 master-stroke of absurdity, and it has provoked this epigram : 
 " When Harry the Eighth left the Pope in the lurch, 
 The people of England made him head of the Church; 
 But George's good subjects, the Bloomsbury people, 
 Instead of the church, make him head of the steeple." 
 
 More admired is the magnificent portico of eight Corinthian columns, 
 which Hawksmoor added to his design, influenced by Gibbs's portico 
 at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, then just completed; but St. George's is 
 the better, from its height above the level of the street. The church, 
 altogether, is by some considered one of the most picturesque in the 
 metropolis. Here is a tablet to the great Lord Mansfield ; and a monu- 
 ment to Mr. Charles Grant, by Bacon, R.A. 
 
 ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR, Queen-square, Bloomsbury, built in 
 1706, as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew s, Holborn, was declared a 
 parish church in 1723; of which Dr. Stukeley, the Roman- British an- 
 tiquary, was many years the rector : in his MS. Diary, 1749, in the 
 possession of Mr, Britton, F.S.A., is described the then rural character 
 of Queen-square and its vicinity. The parish burial-ground is in the 
 rear of the Foundling Hospital : a strong prejudice formerly existed 
 against new churchyards, and no person was interred here till the 
 ground was broken for Robert Nelson, author of Fasts and Festi- 
 vals, whose character for piety reconciled others to the spot : people 
 like to be buried in company, and in good company. Nancy Dawson, 
 the dancer, of Covent Garden and Drury-lane Theatres, (noted for 
 hornpipes,) lies here. 
 
 ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR, Southwark, was built in 1733-36, by John 
 Price, upon the site of the old church ; the parish having been orgin- 
 ally given by William the Conqueror to the noble family of Arderne, 
 and for some time attached to the Priory of Bermondsey. Stow de- 
 
128 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 scribes the former church as almost directly over against Suffolk- House, 
 formerly the mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, the bro- 
 ther-in-law of Henry VIIL, now the site of the premises of Mr. Pigeon, 
 the distiller. There were buried in the old church, Bonner, Bishop of 
 London, who died in the Marshalsea ; and Rushworth, author of the 
 Collections, who died in the King's Bench : both these prisons being in 
 the parish. Edward Cocker, engraver and teacher of writing and arith- 
 metic, is also stated upon a sexton's evidence to have been interred 
 here: his "Arithmetic," a posthumous work, was first published "by 
 John Hawkins, writing-master, near St. George's Church." The pre- 
 sent church has a lofty stone spire and tower, with a fine peal of eight 
 bells ; the large bell is tolled nightly, and thought to be a relic of the 
 curfew. Hogarth, in his plate of Southwark Fair, represents Figg, the 
 famous prizefighter, and a worthy named Cadman, flying by a rope from 
 the tower of St. George's Church ; the fair being held in that part of 
 the Mint which lies in the rear of the houses opposite. (A very inte- 
 resting paper on the Statistics of St. George's parish was read to the 
 Statistical Society of London, in 1840, by the Rev. Mr. Weight.) 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S IN THE EAST, Ratcliffe Highway, built by Hawksmoor, 
 1715-29, in an original and massive style, has a very picturesque spire. 
 In the churchyard is buried Joseph Ames, (d. 1759,) author of Typo- 
 graphical Antiquities, originally a plane-maker, and afterwards a ship- 
 chandler at Wapping ; he lies in a stone coffin, in virgin earth, at the 
 depth of eight feet. 
 
 In this parish are the Schools and Asylum founded by Mr. Raine, a wealthy 
 brewer, in 1717 and 1736; who also provided that on May 1 and Dec. 26, annually, 
 a marriage-portion of 100/. should be presented to two young women, former in- 
 mates of the School, and who have attained the age of twenty-two years. The 
 bridegrooms must be inhabitants of St. George's-in-the-East, or of Wapping or 
 Shadwell ; and the young women drawing lots for the portion, one hundred new 
 sovereigns,, usually put into a handsome bag, madebyayoung lady of St. George's 
 parish, and presented at a dinner of the trustees. In the morning a discourse 
 is preached in the Church, "On Diligence and Industry in our Calling;" after 
 which the drawing takes place at the Asylum. 
 
 ST. GILES'S, Camberwell, is one of the largest churches built in Eng- 
 land since the Reformation : it occupies the site of the old brick church, 
 burnt on Sunday, Feb. 7, 1841. The new church, designed by Scott and 
 Moffatt, is massively built entirely of stone, and was consecrated Nov. 
 21, 1844 : it is in the transition style, from Early English to Decorated; 
 cruciform in plan, with a large central tower and spire, 207 feet high, 
 and the tower thirty feet square ; it has a fine peal of bells, by Mears. The 
 outside length of the church exceeds 153 feet. The interior has an open 
 timber roof, and oak fittings ; a very powerful organ, by Bishop ; and 
 several stained-glass windows by Ward and Nixon, the largest, over the 
 altar, enriched with the symbolism of the thirteenth century. The edi- 
 fice, within and without, has an antique and pleasing character, the 
 sculpture and other accessories being correct in period. 
 
 ST. GILES'S, Cripplegate, is the successor of a church founded in 
 1090, near the postern in the City wall, called Cripple-gate from an 
 adjoining hospital for lame people (Camderi), or from the numerous 
 cripples begging there (Stow). In 1545, the church was burnt, but was i 
 soon repaired, and perhaps partially rebuilt ; and in 1682, the tower I 
 was raised fifteen feet : it has a peal of twelve bells, besides one in the 
 turret, and a very musical set of chimes (see p. 39). In the church 
 are buried John Fox, the martyrologist, described in the Register as 
 "householder, preacher ;" John Speed, the historian, with his bust, once 
 painted and gilt ; John Milton and his father, under the clerk's desk : a 
 bust of the poet, by Bacon, R.A., with a tablet, were set up on the north 
 side of the nave, by Samuel Whitbread. in 1793. The entry in the 
 
CHURCHES: ST. GILES'S-IN-THE- FIELDS. 129 
 
 parish register is : " 12 November, 1674, John Milton, gentleman, con- 
 sumpcon, chancell."* The remains were scandalously disturbed in Aug. 
 1790, " and little boys have played with the bones of great kings."f In 
 the chancel, too, are tablets to Constance Whitney and Margaret Lucy, 
 both descendants of Sir Thomas Lucy, of Charlecote, Warwickshire : 
 the former represents a female rising from a coffin, and has been erro- 
 neously supposed to commemorate a lady who, having been buried 
 while in a trance, was restored to life through the cupidity of the sex- 
 ton in digging up the body to get possession of a ring left upon her 
 finger. Several of the actors from the Fortune Theatre, Whitecross- 
 street, are buried here. Here, too, rests Sir Martin Frobisher, one of 
 the earliest of the Arctic voyagers (d. 1594-5) ; and Henry Welby, the 
 Grub-street hermit, yet a man of exemplary charity (d. 1636). And 
 the register records the marriage of Oliver Cromwell with Elizabeth 
 Bowchier, August 20, 1620. 
 
 ST. GiLEs's-iN-THE-FiELDS, on the south side of High-street, was 
 formerly in the fields, and the parish the village of St. Giles; the church 
 being traceable to the chapel of a Hospital for Lepers, founded about 
 1117, by Queen Matilda, consort of Henry I. The ancient church was 
 taken down in 1623, and a brick edifice erected in its place : this was 
 removed in 1730, and the present church, designed by Henry Flitcroft, 
 was completed in 1734. It is built of Portland stone, and has a tower 
 and spire, 160 feet high, with eight bells. Above the entrance gateway 
 from the street is a bas-relief of the Day of Judgment, from the Lich or 
 " Resurrection Gate " of the former church. Here were buried Chap- 
 man, the translator of Homer; Lord Herbert of Cherbury, who lived 
 in Great Queen-street ; Shirley, the dramatist, and his wife ; Sir Roger 
 L'Estrange, the political writer ; and Andrew Marvell, " a man in 
 whose reputation the glory of the patriot has eclipsed the fine powers 
 of the poet." The monument to Chapman, built by Inigo Jones at 
 his own expense, is now in the churchyard, against the south wall of the 
 church. In the churchyard, too, is the altar-tomb of Richard Pendrell, 
 who aided in the escape of Charles II. ; and a few years since was re- 
 vived the custom of decorating this tomb on Restoration Day (May 29) 
 with branches of oak. The finest monument in the present church is 
 the recumbent effigies of the Duchess Dudley (d. 1670), preserved in 
 grateful memory of her munificence to the parish. At the place of 
 public execution, a short distance north-west of the church, Sir John 
 Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, was hung in chains and roasted over faggots in 
 1417, ? during the reign of Henry V., his early friend. The phrase " St. 
 Giles's Bowl" is referred to the custom of giving, at the Hospital gate, 
 every malefactor on his way to Tyburn a bowl of ale, as his last worldly 
 draught, which practice was afterwards continued at an hostel built 
 upon the site of the monastic house ; of this the Bowl Brewery, taken 
 down in 1849, was the representative ; and the bowl itself is said to be 
 in existence. The transparent clock-dial of the church was lit with gas 
 in 1827, the first in the metropolis ; and opposite, in 1842, was made 
 one of the earliest experiments with wood-paving. In Endell-street, 
 in 1845, was built a district church, in the Early Pointed style, by Fer- 
 rey, a timely provision for the spiritual destitution of the parish. St. 
 Giles's possesses also a cemetery in the Lower St. Pancras-road ; where 
 
 * Under St. Bride's (p. 121) has been omitted mention of St. Biide's church- 
 yard as one of Milton's abodes in London : here, after his return from Italy, he 
 lodged with one Russel, a tailor, and devoted himself to the education of his 
 nephews, John and Edward Philips, and to the politics of the day. Thence, how- 
 ever, he soon removed to " a pretty garden-house" in Aldersgate-street. 
 
 t See the Diary of General Murray, in Monthly Magazine for August 1833. 
 
130 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 are buried, beneath an altar-tomb, John Flaxman, R.A., the sculptor, 
 and Sir John Soane, R.A. the architect. (See CEMETERIES, p. 69.) 
 
 ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate, on the east side of Bishopsgate-street 
 Within, was once the church of the priory of St. Helen, the site of 
 which, judging from pavements found here, was originally occupied by a 
 Roman building. During the continuance of the priory, the church was 
 divided by a partition, and served both the nuns and the parishioners ; 
 but after the Dissolution, this was removed : against the north wall is 
 a range of the nuns' seats. The interior of the edifice, with its columns 
 and pointed arches, is picturesque ; it contains more monuments, per- 
 haps, than any other church in the metropolis ; and these being altar- 
 tombs upon the floor, increase the appearance of antiquity and solem- 
 nity. They include a freestone altar-tomb, with quatrefoil panels en- 
 closing shields ; upon the ledger lie full-length alabaster effigies of 
 Sir John Crosbie and his first wife Anneys or Agnes (see CROSBY 
 HALL); the knight wears his aldermanic gown over plate armour. 
 A canopied monument to Sir W. Pickering, in dress armour, reclining 
 upon a pillow of matting (d. 1542) ; several kneeling figures, elaborately 
 painted and gilt, in memory of Sir Andrew Judd (in armour) (d. 1558) ; 
 a very large sculptured altar-tomb to Sir Thomas Gresham, who founded 
 the Royal Exchange ; a monument representing Martin Bond, captain 
 of the "trained bands at Tilbury when the Spanish Armada was ex- 
 pected he is sitting within a tent, with sentries, &c. (d. 1643) ; tomb of 
 Francis Bancroft (d. 1726), built in his lifetime, when he directed that 
 his body should be embalmed, and placed in a coffin unfastened (see 
 ALMSHOUSES, p. 6); and a table monument by N. Stone to Sir Julius 
 Caesar, Master of the Rolls to James I. (d. 1636), the monument erected 
 in the previous year, with the Latin inscription sculptured, as if on a 
 folded deed, an engagement of the deceased to pay the debt of nature 
 whenever it shall please God to appoint it. In the vestibule also are 
 several elaborate monuments, displaying figures; and an alms-box sup- 
 ported by a curiously-carved figure'of a mendicant. The church also 
 contains fine monumental brasses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 
 
 HOLY TRINITY, Besborough Gardens, close to Vauxhall Bridge, a 
 district church of St. Margaret's and St. John's, Westminster, was 
 erected at the sole expense of Archdeacon Bentinck, Prebendary of 
 Westminster ; the foundation-stone was laid by Mrs. Bentinck, Nov. 8, 
 1849, on which day also was founded another church, in Great Peter- 
 street, in the same parish. Holy Trinity' Church is designed in the 
 Early Decorated style, (temp. Edward I. and II.) : at the intersection of 
 the four arms rises an enriched tower and spire, 193 feet high : the east 
 end window of seven lights is large and fine. The church has been 
 decorated and furnished by subscription. 
 
 HOLY TRINITY, Bishop's-road, Paddington, a Perpendicular church, 
 built by Cundy in 1844-6; it has a richly crocketed spire and pinnacled 
 tower, 219 feet high, and a magnificent stained chancel- window : the 
 crypt is on a level with the roofs of the houses in Belgrave-square. 
 
 HOLY TRINITY, Brompton, a church in the Early English style, by 
 Donaldson ; with a lofty tower, and stained glass of ancient design and 
 colour ; consecrated 1829. It occupies, with the burial-ground, the 
 site of a nursery-garden ; here flowers and funereal shrubs decorate 
 the graves. John Reeve, the comic actor (d. 1838), is buried here. 
 
 HOLY TRINITY, Hartland-road, Haverstock-hill, is a district church 
 of St. Pancras, and was consecrated Oct. 15, 1850. It is built in the 
 Middle Pointed style (Wyatt and Brandon, architects), and consists of 
 a nave, with north and south aisles, chancel, and tower and spire 160 
 
CHURCHES: ST JAMES'S, PICCADILLY. 131 
 
 feet high : the chancel is novel, the arches producing an elegant play 
 of lines. The church will seat 1500 persons, and cost about 10,OOOZ. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Clerkenwell, on the north side of Clerkenwell Green, 
 has replaced the church of a Benedictine monastery, founded about 1100; 
 it served the nuns and inhabitants until the Dissolution of the convents, 
 when it was made parochial, and dedicated to St. James the Less in- 
 stead of the Virgin Mary. In the Sutherland View of 1543, we see it far 
 in the fields. In 1623, the steeple was rebuilt upon the old tower, when 
 both fell, and destroyed part of the church. In 1788, the whole was 
 taken down, rebuilt by Carr, and consecrated in 1792. In the vaults 
 are preserved some coffins from the old church, and among them that of 
 Bishop Burnet, who died 1714-15 in St, John's-court, close by, though 
 the fanatic rabble threw stones and dirt at his funeral. His handsome 
 mural monument was also removed to the present church. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Garlick Hithe, on the east side of Garlick-hill, Upper 
 Thames-street, is named from its being near the chief garlick market 
 of the City. It was rebuilt in 1326: among the persons interred 
 here was Richard Lyons, a wine-merchant and lapidary, beheaded in 
 Cheapside by Wat Tyler in the reign of Richard II. Stow describes 
 his " picture on his gravestone very fair and large, with his hair rounded 
 by his ears, and curled ; a little beard forked ; a gown girt to him down 
 to his feet, of branched damask, wrought with the likeness of flowers : 
 a large purse on his right side hanging in a belt from his left shoulder ; 
 a plain hood about his neck, covering his shoulders, and hanging back 
 behind him." The following citizens who had served Mayor were also 
 buried here : John of Oxenford, Mayor in 1341 ; Sir John Wrotch, or 
 Wroth, 1360 ; William Venor, 1389 ; William More, 1395 ; Robert Chi- 
 chell, 1421 ; James Spencer, 1527. The old church was destroyed in 
 the Great Fire : it was rebuilt by Wren, 1676-83, with a tower and 
 lantern, 98 feet high, and a projecting clock-dial, with a carved and gilt 
 figure of St. James : a large organ, built by Bernard Schmidt, in 1697 ; 
 and a clever altar-picture of the Ascension, by A. Geddes. In this church 
 Steele heard the Common-Prayer service read so distinctly, so emphati- 
 cally, and so fervently, that it was next to an impossibility to be inat- 
 tentive. Steele proposed that this excellent reader (Mr. Philip Stubbs, 
 afterwards Archdeacon of St. Alban's), upon the next and every annual 
 assembly of the clergy of Sion College, and all other convocations, should 
 read before them. Spectator, No. 147, Saturday, August 18, 1711. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Piccadilly, or St. James's, Westminster, built by 
 Wren, at the cost of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban's, whose arms 
 are placed above the south door ; and consecrated Sunday, July 13, 
 1684. It has a tower and spire, 150 feet high ; the latter was coated 
 with cement in 1850, when the exterior of the church was repaired 
 throughout. The clock was the gift of Mr. H. Massey, and the ori- 
 ginal dial was gilded and painted by Mr. Highmore, H. M. Serjeant- 
 Painter : its diameter is 10 feet. The interior, Wren's masterpiece, is 
 separated into a nave and aisles by two ranges of Corinthian columns ; 
 and the roof is divided into sunken and enriched panels. The great 
 east window was filled with stained glass, by Wailes of Newcastle, in 
 1846 : the subjects are the Burial, the Resurrection, and the Ascension, 
 the Agony, the Passion, and the Bearing of the Cross. The noble 
 organ was built for James II., and intended for his Roman Catholic 
 Oratory at Whitehall, but given to this parish by Queen Mary in 1691. 
 In 1738, the Prince of Wales gave crimson velvet and gold hangings, 
 valued at 700?., for the holy table and pulpit. Facing the western 
 entrance is the white marble font, exquisitely sculptured by Gibbons : 
 it is nearly 5 feet high, and the bowl is about six feet in circumference. 
 
132 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The shaft represents the tree of life, with the serpent twining round 
 it, and offering the forbidden fruit to Eve, who, with Adam, stands 
 beneath : these figures are 18 inches high. On the bowl are bas- 
 reliefs of the Baptism of the Saviour in the Jordan : the Baptising of 
 the Treasurer of Candace by St. Philip the Deacon ; and the Ark 
 of Noah, with the dove bearing the olive-branch. The cover of this 
 font (shewn in Vertue's engraving), held by a flying angel and a group 
 of cherubim, was stolen about the beginning of the present century, 
 and subsequently hung up as a sign at a spirit-shop in the neighbour- 
 hood. (Braylev's Londiniana, vol. ii. p. 282.) Evelyn, in his Diary, 
 thus describes the east end of the church : 
 
 " Dec. 16, 1684. I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built. 
 The altar was especially adorned, the white marble inclosure curiously and 
 richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls by Mr. Gibbons, in wood : 
 a pelican, with her young at her breast, just over the altar in the carv'd com- 
 partment and border invironing the purple velvet fringed, with (black) I. H. S. 
 richly embroidered, and most noble plate, were given by Sir R. Geere, to the 
 value (as was said) of 2001. There was no altar anywhere in England, nor has there 
 been any abroad, more handsomely adorned." 
 
 The wood is lime, with cedar for the reredos ; the marble scrolls have 
 been replaced by bronze. In the church are interred Charles Cotton 
 (d. 1686-7), the companion of Walton in the Complete Angler ; Dr. 
 Sydenham (d. 1689) , with a marble tablet erected by the College of 
 Physicians, in 1810 ; Hayman, the portrait-painter (d. 1696), and the 
 two Vanderveldes, the marine painters ; and Michael Dahl, the Swedish 
 portrait-painter (d. 1743); Dr. Arbuthnot (d. 1734-5), the friend of 
 Pope, Swift, Gay, and Prior ; Benjamin Stillingfleet, the naturalist, so 
 touchingly deplored by Pennant, in the preface to his British Zoology ; 
 Dr. Akenside, the poet (d. 1770) ; James Dodsley, the bookseller, with 
 a tablet (d. 1797) ; G. H. Harlow, who painted"" The Trial of Queen 
 Katherine" (d. 1819) ; and Sir John Malcolm (d. 1833). Here also lies 
 Thomas d'Urfey, dramatist and song-writer, to whom there is a tablet 
 on the outer south face of the church-tower, inscribed " Tom d'Urfey, 
 dyed February 26, 1723." In the vestry are the portraits of the St. 
 James's Rectors, that of Dr. Birch alone missing : the first Rector, Dr. 
 Tenison ; the third, Dr. Wake ; and the seventh, Dr. Seeker, became Arch- 
 bishops of Canterbury. (See Walcott's Handbook of St. James's.) 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Spa-road, Bermondsey, contains a large altar-picture, 
 painted for 5001., by John Wood, upon conditions detailed at p. 41. 
 The subject is the Ascension of our Saviour; the figures are consider- 
 ably above the natural size : on a canvass of 275 square feet (25 feet by 
 11), in the upper part, a full-length figure of the Saviour occupies 
 nearly one-half of the picture, a nimbus around the head illumining 
 the upper sky ; the eleven disciples are in various positions, standing, 
 kneeling, prostrated, with uplifted hands and faces, and bodies bent 
 with reverential awe and devotion; and their personal identity, cos- 
 tume, and colouring, are very successful 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, Clerkenwell, a modern church, in St. John's-square, 
 with an ancient crypt, (part of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem,) 
 in which the detection of the Cock-lane Ghost hoax was consummated. 
 
 " While drawing in the crypt of St. John's, Clerkenwell, in a narrow cloister 
 on the north side (there being at that time coffins, and fragments of shrouds, and 
 human remains lying about in disorder), the sexton's boy pointed to one of the 
 coffins, and said the woman in it was ' Scratching Fanny.' This reminding me 
 of the business of the Cock-lane Ghost, I removed the lid of the coffin, which 
 was loose, and saw the body of a woman, which had become adipocere; the face 
 perfect, handsome oval, with aquiline nose. [Will not arsenic produce adipo- 
 cere ?] She was said to have been poisoned, although the charge is understood 
 to have been disproved. I inquired of one of the churchwardens of the time 
 
CHURCHES: ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM. 133 
 
 (Mr. Bird, I believe), and he said the coffin had always been understood to con- 
 tain the body of the woman whose spirit was said to have haunted the house in 
 Cock-lane." Communicated by John Wykeham Archer. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, formerly ST. AUGUSTIN'S, at Hackney, was taken down 
 in 1798, except the tower, of the sixteenth century, which still remains, 
 with a clock and a peal of eight bells ; eastward is the chapel of the 
 Rowe family, built in 1614, and preserved as a mausoleum. The church- 
 yard has thoroughfare paths, lined with lofty trees, but the funereal 
 yew is not among them. The old church, before its demolition, was 
 extremely rich in monuments and brasses, some of which were removed 
 to the porches and vestibules of the new church of St. John, completed 
 in 1797, northward of the ancient edifice. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Charlotte-street, Fitzroy-square, de- 
 signed by Hugh Smith, in the Norman or Romanesque style, was 
 opened in 1846, its west front having a tower and spire, 120 feet high, 
 and a large wheel-window beneath the intervening gable. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Horsleydown, one of the Fifty New 
 Churches (10 Anne), was finished in 1732 : it has a tower, with an ill- 
 proportioned Scamozzian Ionic column, seen to the eastward from the 
 London and Greenwich Railway. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Smith Square, Westminster, the second 
 built of the Fifty New Churches (10 Anne), finished in 1728, after 
 the designs of Archer, pupil of Vanbrugh; before which it began to 
 settle, and a tower and lantera-turret were added at each corner to 
 strengthen the main building ; " and these would have been beautiful ac- 
 companiments to the central tower and spire intended by the architect." 
 (Elmes.) These towers reminded Lord Chesterfield of an elephant 
 thrown on its back, with its four feet erect in the air ; and Charles 
 Mathews, of a dining-table upside-down, with its four legs and castors. 
 Meanwhile, justice has not been done to the originality and powers of 
 the architect: the whole composition is impressive, and its boldness 
 loses nothing by the graceful playfulness of the outline ; it has some 
 inaccuracies of detail, but is, altogether, a very striking production of 
 the Vanbrugh school. (Donaldson.} It has semicircular apses east 
 and west, and imposing Doric porticoes north and south. The interior 
 of the church (said to have been the first in London lit with gas), is 
 without columns, and is highly embellished : the east window is filled 
 with ancient painted glass brought from Normandy ; and above the 
 altar -table is a copy of the celebrated picture of Christ bearing his 
 Cross, by Ribalta, in the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene College, 
 Oxford. The elegant marble font, designed by C. Barry, jun., sculp- 
 tured by J.Thomas, was placed here in 1847. Churchill, the satirist, born 
 in the parish, succeeded his father in 1758, in the curacy and lectureship 
 of this church : he soon disgraced the holy office, and substituted for 
 the clerical costume a blue coat, gold-laced waistcoat and hat, and 
 large ruffles ; remonstrances ensued, and he resigned. 
 
 St. John's burial-ground contains " the ashes of an Indian chief, who died of 
 small-pox, in 1734, and was buried in the presence of the Emperor Toma, after 
 the custom of the Karakee Creeks, sewn up in two blankets, between two deal 
 boards, with his clothes, some silver coins, and a few glass beads." Walcott's 
 Westminster, p. 314. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, Netting Hill, an Early English cross church, designed 
 by Stevens and Alexander, and consecrated Jan. 22, 1845 : it stands 
 upon an elevated portion of Kensington Park, facing Ladbroke Grove, 
 and has a tower 156 feet high, seen to picturesque advantage. 
 
 ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM, South Hackney, Middlesex; a large and 
 beautiful church, in the best Pointed style, 13th and 14th centuries, by 
 
134 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 E. C. Hakewill ; first stone laid May 15, 1845 ; consecrated July 20, 
 1848. The plan is cruciform, with a tower and spire of equal height, 
 together rising 187 feet ; the latter has graceful lights and broaches, and 
 the four Evangelists beneath canopies at the four angles ; the nave has 
 side aisles with flying buttresses to the clerestory; each transept is lit 
 by a magnificent window, 29 feet high ; and the choir has an apsis with 
 seven lancet windows : entire external length, 192 feet ; materials, 
 Kentish rag and Speldhurst stone. The principal entrance is at the 
 west, through a screen of open arches. The roof, of open-work, is of 
 60 feet, highest pitch, with massive arched and foliated ribs ; and the 
 meeting of the transepts, chancel, and nave is very effective. The chancel 
 has a stone roof, and the walls of the apse are painted and diapered red 
 with fleur-de-lis, and blue powdered with stars; the pulpit and reading- 
 desk are also diapered ; and the seats are of oak, and mostly formed of 
 stall-ends with finials : the two first seats are well-carved ; on one is 
 the crest of the rector and the badge of the patron saint, and on the 
 other side the dove with the olive- branch, and the lynx, as an emblem 
 of watchfulness. All the windows are filled with painted, stained, or 
 richly -diapered glass, by Wailes, Powell, &c. ; and a memorial cleres- 
 tory window, Christ Blessing Little Children, and Raising Jairus's 
 Daughter, is beautifully painted by Ward and Nixon. The altar-floor 
 is laid with Minton's tiles ; the font is nicely sculptured ; the organ 
 is from the old church at Hackney ; the tower has a fine peal of eight 
 bells. The entire cost was 15,740J. ; sittings, 1500. 
 
 ST. KATHERINE'S, the church of the Royal Hospital of St. Kathe- 
 rine, rebuilt in 1827, on the east side of the R*egent's Park, after the de- 
 molition of the ancient Hospital and Church, "at the Tower," for the 
 site of St. Katherine's Docks. The new church, designed by A. Poynter, 
 is in the florid Gothic style, and has octagonal towers, with a large 
 window of beautiful tracery : it contains the original pulpit, with views 
 of the ancient Hospital and its gates, an elaborate piece of carpentry ; 
 besides monuments, &c. from the old church. 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE JEWRY, King-street, Cheapside, was commenced by 
 Wren, in 1671, upon the site of the old church, destroyed in the Great 
 Fire of 1666 : it has a tower and steeple 130 feet high, with, for a 
 vane, a gilt gridiron, the emblem of St. Lawrence ; and the east end in 
 King-street is so pure as to be almost Grecian. The interior has some 
 excellent plaster-work, in wreaths and branches ; and the organ-case, 
 pulpit, and doorways, are richly-carved oak. In the centre is a large 
 pew for the Lord Mayor and Common Council, the church being used 
 for Corporation Sermons. Here Tillotson was Tuesday lecturer ; was 
 married 1663-4 ; and buried in 1694, three years after he was conse- 
 crated Archbishop of Canterbury : his sculptured monument is on the 
 north wall of the church. The Vestry-room walls are entirely cased 
 with fine dark carved oak; and the ceiling has elaborate plaster foliage, 
 and a painting, bv Thornhill, of St. Lawrence. In the old church, men- 
 tioned 1293, was buried Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wiltshire, (d. 1471,) 
 whose daughter Anna married King Henry VIII., and was the mother 
 of Queen Elizabeth : here lay also the remains of Richard Rich, mercer 
 (d. 1469), from whom descended the Earls of Warwick. 
 
 ST. LEONARD'S, Shoreditch (anciently Soresdich), occupies the site 
 of a church mentioned in grants early in the 13th century. The last 
 church (which had four gables in a line, and a low square tower), was 
 taken down in 1736 ; and the present church built by the elder Dance in 
 1740 : it has a steeple imitated from that of St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheap- 
 side, and a fine peal of twelve bells. The parish register records the 
 burial of Will Sommers, Henry VIII. 's jester (d. 1560), and of several 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARGARET'S, LOTHBURY. 135 
 
 distinguished players of the age of Queen Elizabeth and James I. ; for 
 a list of whom see Cunningham's Handbook, 2d. ed., p. 235. In the 
 register is entered, among the " Burialles, Thomas Cam, y e 22d inst. 
 of Januarye, 1588, Aged 207 years, Holywell-street. George Garrow, 
 parish clerk." [Is not 2 written for 1 in the number of years ?] 
 
 ST. LUKE'S, Chelsea, Old and New Churches, described at page 76. 
 In the churchyard of the latter lie Egerton and Blanchard, the come- 
 dians ; M'Leod, who wrote a Journal of the Voyage of the Alceste to 
 China, in 1817 ; and Alexander Stephens, editor of the Annual Bio- 
 graphy and Obituary. 
 
 ST. MAGNUS THE MARTYR, London Bridge, was burnt in the Great 
 Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren, 1676. It has a tower, octagon lan- 
 tern, cupola, and spire, added in 1705, which are very picturesque. The 
 footway under the tower, on the east side, was made in 1760, through 
 the recesses and groined arches originally formed in the main building 
 by Wren, as if he had seen its necessity whenever the street leading to 
 Old London Bridge required widening.* There is a similar passage- 
 way through the tower of Christ Church, Newgate-street, Miles 
 Coverdale was for a short time rector of St. Magnus : he was buried 
 in St. Bartholomew's by the Exchange, which being taken down in 
 1840, Coverdale's remains were removed, and interred in St. Mag- 
 nus',f where a monument to his memory had been erected in 1837. 
 The projecting gilt dial of the clock affixed to the tower was the gift 
 of Sir Charles Duncomb, in 1709, and cost 485J. 5s. 4d. : Sir Charles, it is 
 related, when a poor boy, had once to wait upon London Bridge a con- 
 siderable time for his master, whom he missed through not knowing 
 the hour ; he then vowed that if ever he became successful in the world, 
 he would give to St. Magnus' a public clock, that passengers might see 
 the time ; and this dial proves the fulfilment of his vow. It was origi- 
 nally ornamented with several richly gilded figures: upon a small metal 
 shield inside the clock are engraven the donor's arms, with this inscrip- 
 tion : " The gift of Sir Charles Duncomb, Knight, Lord Major, and 
 Alderman of this ward. Langley Bradley fecit, 1709." Sir Charles also 
 presented the large organ in St. Magnus' church : it was " made and 
 erected by Abraham Jordan, senior and junior ;" and in the Spectator, 
 Feb. 8, 1712, was announced the public opening of the instrument on 
 the following Sunday. The tower has a set of ten bells. A bronzed 
 or copper medalet, date 1676, bears on its obverse a view of old St. 
 Magnus' Church. Here was buried Hervey Yevele, or Zenely, described 
 by Stow as Free-Mason to Edward III., Richard II., and Henry IV. : 
 he assisted to erect the tomb of Richard II. in Westminster Abbey, 
 between 1395 and 1397, and prepared plans for raising the walls of 
 Westminster Hall. 
 
 ST. MARGARET'S, Lothbury, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, and 
 rebuilt by Wren in 1690, has a steeple 140 feet high ; two carved and 
 painted figures of Moses and Aaron, brought from St. Christopher-le- 
 
 * This improvement was made after the destruction of the church roof by 
 fire, April 18, 1760, which began in the oilmen's premises in Thames-street, 
 adjoining the church, and consumed seven houses and all the warehouses on 
 Fresh Wharf. This conflagration was occasioned by the neglect of a servant, 
 who left some inflammable substances boiling while he went to see Earl Ferrers 
 return from his trial and condemnation for murder : before the man could get 
 back, the shop was in flames. 
 
 t The inscription upon Coverdale's tomb states: "On the 4th of October, 
 1535, the first complete English version of the Bible was published under his 
 direction." The third centenary of this event was celebrated by the clergy 
 throughout the churches of England, October 4, 18 )5 ; and several medals were 
 struck upon the occasion. 
 
136 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Stocks, when that church was taken down ; and a marble font attri- 
 buted to Gibbons, resembling that in St. James's Church, Piccadilly. 
 
 ST. MARGARET PATTENS, Fenchurch-street, destroyed in the Great 
 Fire of 166G, and rebuilt by Wren in 1687, contains a fine altar-picture 
 Angels ministering to Christ in the Garden ascribed to Carlo Maratti. 
 About the altar-piece are some exquisitely carved flowers. Against 
 the south wall is a large monument, by Rysbrack, to Sir P. Delme, 
 Lord Mayor in 1723. 
 
 ST. MARGARET'S parish church, "Westminster, is placed a short dis- 
 tance from the north door of "Westminster Abbey : it was originally built 
 about 1064, by Edward the Confessor, for the people who had thickly set- 
 tled around the Abbey, and were greatly increased by those who sought 
 here the privilege of Sanctuary. This' Norman edifice was destroyed, 
 and the church rebuilt in the reign of Edward I., of which period there 
 exist a few remains. It was considerably altered in the time of Ed- 
 ward IV., when, probably, a flight of steps led up to the church-door, 
 the surrounding level having been raised about nine feet above the 
 original surface : a stone cross and a pulpit formerly stood here, as at 
 St. Paul's. Soon after the ancient Chapel of St. Stephen had been given 
 up for the sittings of the House of Commons, it is supposed the mem- 
 bers attended Divine Service in St. Margaret's, as the Lords went to 
 the Abbey Church. On Sept. 25, 1642, the Covenant was read from 
 St. Margaret's pulpit, and taken by both Houses of Parliament, the 
 Assembly of Divines, and the Scots Commissioners. Here also were 
 preached the lengthy Fast-day Sermons ; and Hugh Peters, <! the pul- 
 pit buffoon," persuaded the Parliament to bring Charles " to condign, 
 speedy, and capital punishment," while the churchyard was guarded 
 by soldiers with pikes and muskets. St. Margaret's did not escape 
 plunder by the Puritans; but in 1660, "the State's Arms," richly 
 carved and gilt, were set up in the church, and they are still preserved 
 in the vestry. In 1641, a gallery was built over the north aisle ; and in 
 1681, another over the south aisle, "exclusively for persons of quality," 
 the latter erected at the expense of Sir John Cutler, the miser satirised 
 by Pope. Doctors Burnet and Sprat, old rivals, once preached here be- 
 fore Parliament in one morning ; and on Palm Sunday, 1713, Dr. Sache- 
 verel preached here first after the term of his suspension : 40,000 
 copies of this sermon were sold. In 1735, St. Margaret's was repaired 
 at the expense of Parliament, when the tower was faced with Portland 
 stone and raised 20 feet, being now 85 feet high : it has a fine peal of 
 ten bells, the tenor weighing 26 cwt. In 1753 was placed on the altar- 
 table a relievo of our Lord's Supper at Emmaus, sculptured in lime- 
 wood, by Alken of Soho,from Titian's celebrated picture in the Louvre. 
 In 1758, the east end was rebuilt and made apsidal; and the great east 
 window removed, and replaced by the present beautiful cinque-cento 
 window, said to have occupied five years executing, at Gouda in Hol- 
 land, intended as a present from the magistrates of Dort to Henry VII. 
 This celebrated glass painting represents the Crucifixion, with angels receiving 
 the blood-drops from the Saviour's wounds ; an angel wafts the soul of the good 
 thief to paradise, and a dragon (the devil) bears the soul of the wicked thief to 
 eternal punishment. The six upper compartments are filled with as many angels, 
 bearing the cross, the sponge, the crown of thorns, the hammer, the rods, and 
 nails. In the lower compartment (right) is Arthur Prince of Wales, eldest son 
 of Henry VII., and above him St. George and the red and white rose; and to the 
 left is Catherine of Arragon, Arthur's bride, with above her the figure of St. Cecilia, 
 and a bursting pomegranate, the emblem of Granada. The window is also said 
 to have been ordered by Ferdinand and Isabella, on Prince Arthur being affianced, 
 in 1499, to the Princess Catherine, their portraits being procured for the purpose. 
 It was probably finished after his brother's death, to be sent as a (rift to Henry 
 VIII. The king gave it to Waltham Abbey, where it remained until the Disso- 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARGARET'S, WESTMINSTER. 137 
 
 lution, A.D. 1540; when the last abhot sent it for safety to his private chapel at 
 New Hall, which, by purchase, subsequently became the property of Sir Thomas, 
 father of Anne Boleyn, queen of Henry VIII. The chapel remained undisturbed 
 until General Monk becoming possessor of New Hall, to save the window from 
 destruction by the Puritans, had it buried underground. After the Restoration, 
 Monk replaced the window in the chapel. Subsequent to his death, the seat fell 
 into decay, and the chapel was taken down ; but the window was preserved for 
 some time cased up, until purchased by Mr. Conyers, of Copt Hall, Essex, by 
 whose son it was sold, in 1758, to the churchwardens of St. Margaret's for 400 
 guineas, when it was placed in the church, re-opened in 1759, a fine anthem for the 
 occasion being composed by Dr. Boyce. A prosecution was now instituted against 
 the parishioners by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, for putting up what was 
 attempted to be proved "a superstitious image or picture." After seven years' suit, 
 the bill was dismissed ; in memory of which Mr. Churchwarden Peirson presented, 
 as a gift for ever, to the churchwardens of the parish, a richly-chased cup, stand, 
 and cover, silver-gilt, weighing 93oz. 15dwt., which is the.loving-cup of St. Marga- 
 ret's, and is produced with especial ceremony at the chief parochial entertainments. 
 The church is otherwise rich in painted glass : the north-east window is filled 
 with gold mosaic designs, the Holy Monogram, the red and white roses, and port- 
 cullis, and a saint (lago of Compostella?) bearing an open book. The crescent 
 beside the rose, Mr. Rickman thought, denoted some "expectancy of regal ampli- 
 tude;" so Shakspeare: 
 
 "Pompey. My power 's a crescent, and my auguring hope 
 
 Says it will come to the full." Ant. and Cleop. act ii. sc. 1. 
 
 In this and the south-east window are the arms of Edward the Confessor, repre- 
 sented as blazoned by the heralds temp. Henry VIII. The saint in the centre is 
 St. Michael overcoming the dragon. Abridged from Walcott's Westminster. 
 
 The chancel is decorated in polychrome by Willement : and over the 
 reredos are crocketed canopies, coloured ruby, azure, and emerald 
 diaper, and richly gilded. In 1802, the present beautifully carved pul- 
 pit and reading-desk, by Lenox, were erected ; the Speaker's chair of 
 state was placed in the front of the west gallery ; and a new organ, by 
 Avery, was built. Altogether, the votes of the House of Commons 
 for the repairs of this church have been frequent and considerable. 
 Upon certain occasions, as Restoration Day (May 29), the Chaplain of 
 the House of Commons preaches here ; when " the House" is usually re- 
 presented by the Speaker, the Serjeant-at-Arms, the clerks and other 
 officers, and some eight or ten Members. The church originally con- 
 sisted of a nave and choir, with side aisles ; with chapels or altars in 
 the latter to St. Margaret, St. George, St. Katherine, St. Erasmus, St. 
 John, and St. Cornelius, besides two to St. Nicholas and St. Christopher : 
 the churchwardens' accounts bear evidence of the maintenance of these 
 shrines. In the ambulatory is a carved stall of the 16th century. 
 
 Among the names of the more eminent of the Puritans who preached in St. 
 Margaret's are those of Calamy, Vines, Nye, Manton, Marshall, Ganden, Owen, 
 Burgess, Newcomen, Reyno ds, Cheynell, Baxter, Case, (who censured Cromwell 
 to his face, and when discoursing before General Monk, cried out, "There are 
 some will betray three kingdoms for filthy lucre's sake," and threw his handker- 
 chief into the General's pew,) the critical Lightfoot, Taylor, "the illuminated 
 doctor," and Goodwyn, "the windmill with a weathercock upon the top." Wal- 
 cott's Westminster, p. 120. 
 
 The monuments are very numerous : among them are a tablet to Caxton 
 the printer, by Westmacott, raised 1820 by the Roxburgh Club ; ala- 
 baster figures, coloured and gilt, to Marie Lady Dudley (d. 1600) ; brass 
 tablet, put up by subscription, 1845, to Sir Walter Raleigh, whose body 
 was interred within the chancel of this church on the day he was be- 
 headed in Old Palace-yard, Oct. 29, 1618 ; black marble slab to James 
 Harrington (d. 1677), who wrote Oceana ; monument near the porch- 
 door to Mrs. E. Corbet, with what Johnson considered "the most 
 valuable of all Pope's epitaphs ;" monument to Captain Sir Peter 
 Parker, Bart., R.N., with bas-relief of his death, 1814, and lines by 
 Lord Byron, in chancel north aisle ; a curious tablet of Cornelius Van 
 
138 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Dun (d. 1577), with a coloured bust in the uniform of the Yeomen of 
 the Guard ; and a small monument to Mrs. Joane Barnett (d. 1674), who 
 left money for a yearly sermon and poor widows : she is said to have 
 sold oatmeal cakes hard by the church-door, in memory of which a 
 large oatmeal pudding is a standing dish at the " Feast." * There is but 
 one ancient brass in the church, the rest having been sold, in 1644, at 
 3d. and 4d. per pound, as the churchwardens' accounts attest. Weever 
 records the burial here of John Skelton, Poet Laureate to Henry VIII. 
 (d. 1529); and the registers contain the burial of Thomas Churchyarde, 
 " Court Poet " (d. 1604). Soon after the Restoration, several bodies 
 were disinterred from the Abbey, and deposited in a pit in St. Mar- 
 garet's churchyard : among them was the corpse of Oliver Cromwell's 
 mother, from Henry VII.'s Chapel ; Sir W. Constable, one of the 
 judges in the trial of Charles I.; Admiral Blake ; John Pimme ; Thomas 
 May, the poet, &c. Here, too, are buried Sir William Waller, the 
 Parliament General (d. 1668) ; Hollar, the engraver (d. 1677), in the 
 churchyard, " near N.W. corner of the tower " (Aubrey) ; Thomas 
 Blood, who attempted to steal the regalia (d. 1680) ; Gadbury, the 
 Cavalier astrologer, and helpmate of Lillv (d. 1704) ; Frances Whate 
 (d. 1736), a charwoman, buried in the church ; John Read, the " Walk- 
 ing Rushlight," and the oldest general in the service (d. 1807). The 
 churchyard is extremely crowded with bodies. In the Report on Ex- 
 tramural Sepulture, 1850, Dr. Reid states, " that the state of the bury- 
 ing-ground around St. Margaret's Church is prejudicial to the a'ir 
 supplied at the Houses of Parliament, and also to the whole neigh- 
 bourhood ;" that " these offensive emanations have been noticed at 
 all hours of the night and morning ;" and that even " fresh meat is 
 frequently tainted " by the deleterious gases issuing from this church- 
 yard. The removal of the church was proposed even in Stow's time, 
 and has often been revived ; it is favoured by Mr. Barry, in his de- 
 sign for the completion of the New Palace of Westminster : if allowed 
 to remain, it should be restored, to harmonise with the Abbey, to 
 which it was originally an adjunct. Among the bequests is an en- 
 dowment, founded in 1781, by the will of Mr. Edward Dickenson, who 
 left 5000?. stock, the interest of which was to be divided, on the first 
 month after Easter-day, between three newly-married couples from 
 each parish of St. Margaret and St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, 
 and of Acton. The distribution takes place with the approbation of 
 the Bishop of London ; and petitions are taken into consideration by 
 the trustees on the Wednesday in Easter week, when they decide on the 
 nine couples to receive the bounty, 15/. each. 
 
 A celebrated heirloom of the parish is the " Overseers' Box," originally.purchased 
 at Horn Fair for fourpence, and presented by a Mr. Monck to his brother Over- 
 seers, in 1713. In 1720, the Society of Past Overseers commemorated the gift by 
 adding to the Box a silver rim; and in 1726 were added a silver side-case and 
 bottom. In 1740, an embossed border was placed on the lid, and the bottOTii en- 
 riched with an emblem of Charity. In 1746, Hogarth engraved inside the lid a 
 bust of the Duke of Cumberland, in memory of the Battle of Culloden. In 1765 
 was added to the lid a plate with the arms of the City of Westminster, and the 
 inscription : " This Box is to be delivered to every succeeding set of Overseers, on 
 penalty of five guineas." The original Horn Box thus ornamented has been placed 
 in four additional cases, each ornamented by its several custodians, the senior Over- 
 seer for the time being, with silver plates engraved with the following subjects : 
 Fireworks in St. James's Park (Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle), 1749; Admiral Keppel's 
 Action offUshant, and his Acquittal by Court Martial; Battle of the Nile, 1798; 
 Repulse of Admiral Linois, 1804; Battle of Trafalgar, 1805 ; Action between San 
 Fiorenzo and La Piedmontaise, 1808 ; Battle of Waterloo, 1815 ; Bombardment of 
 Algiers, 1816; House of Lords at Trial of Queen Caroline, Coronation of George 
 IV., and his Visit to Scotland, 1822. Portraits: Wilkes, Churchwarden in 1759 ; 
 Nelson, Duncan, Howe, and Vincent ; Fox and Pitt, 1806; the Prince Regent, 
 1811; Princess Charlotte, 1817 ; and Queen Charlotte, 1818. Views : Interior of 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARTIN'S-IN-THE-FIELDS. 139 
 
 Westminster Hall, with Westminster Volunteers attending Divine Service, on 
 Fast-day, 1803; the old Sessions House; St. Margaret's Church from north-east, 
 the west front, tower, and altar-piece. In 1813 was added to the outer case a 
 large silver plate portrait of the Duke of Wellington, commemorating the cen- 
 tenary of the Box. The top of the second case represents the Governors in their 
 board-room, inscribed, "The original Box and cases to be given to every suc- 
 ceeding set of Overseers, on penalty of fifty guineas, 1783." Outside the first case 
 is engraved a cripple. In 1793, a contumacious Overseer detained the Box, 
 and it was deposited "in Chancery" until 1796, when it was restored to the Over- 
 seers' Society ; this event being commemorated by the addition of a third case, of 
 Justice trampling upon an unmasked man and a serpent, and the Lord Chan- 
 cellor (Loughborough) pronouncing his decree. On the fourth, or outer case, is 
 the Anniversary Meeting of the Past Overseers' Society, and the delivery of the 
 Box to the succeeding Overseer, who must produce it at certain parochial enter- 
 tainments, with three pipes of tobacco at least, under the penalty of six bottles of 
 claret ; and must return the whole safe and sound, with some addition, under 
 penalty of two hundred guineas. Within the Box is a mother-of-pearl tobacco- 
 stopper, with a silver chain. Abridged from Walcott's Westminster, pp. 105-107. 
 
 ST. MARK'S, Kennington Common, a Doric church, designed by 
 Koper, and built in 1824, on the spot formerly the place of execution 
 for Surrey, and where several persons suffered death in the Stuart cause. 
 
 ST. MARK'S, Old-Street-road, St. Luke's, a beautiful Early English 
 church, designed by Ferrey, and built in 1848 : it has a noble four- 
 storied tower and spire, rising from the ground 125 feet ; and the win- 
 dows throughout the edifice are fine. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S-IN-THE-FIELDS, north of the western extremity of 
 the Strand, is the second church built upon this site; the first having 
 been erected by Henry VIII., from his disliking the funerals of inhabi- 
 tants passing Whitehall in their way to St. Margaret's, at Westminster, 
 
 as they had no parish church.* Jn the Sutherland View in 1.543, St. Mar- 
 tin's has a low square tower, and is strictly " in the fields :" in 1607, 
 Henry Prince of Wales added a chancel ; but the whole was taken 
 down in 1720-21, and the present church commenced from a design by 
 Gibbs, when King George I., by proxy, laid the first stone, March 19, 
 1721, gave the workmen 100 guineas, and subsequently presented 
 the parish with 1500/. for an organ. The church was consecrated 
 Oct. 20, 1726 : the cost of its erection was 36,89U. 10*. 4d Its length, 
 including the portico, is equal to twice its width : it is in the florid 
 Roman or Italian style, and has a very fine western Corinthian hexa- 
 style portico : the east end is truly elegant, and the round columns at 
 each angle of the building render it very effective in profile. The 
 tower and spire rise out of the roof, behind the portico. The inte- 
 rior is richly ornamented, " a little too gay and theatrical for Protes- 
 tant worship." In 1842, 45 feet of the spire was struck by lightning, 
 and had to be restored at the expense of 1000Z. : the ball and vane 
 were also regilt ; the latter is 6 feet 8 inches high and 5 feet long, and 
 is surmounted with a crown, to denote this the parish of the Sovereign; 
 and in its Registers are entered the births of the royal children born at 
 Buckingham Palace. The tower has a fine peal of twelve bells ;f but 
 the story of Nell G wynn having left a legacy, paid weekly to the ringers, 
 has no foundation in fact. The churchyard was paved in 1829; and in 
 1831, the vaults beneath the church were reconstructed, each vault 
 being 10 feet high, 20 wide, and 40 long. Here is preserved the old 
 
 * It is probable that there was a building before this, but " only a chapel for 
 the use of the monks of Westminster when they visited their Convent (Covent) 
 Garden, which then extended to it." J. Gwilt. 
 
 t High in the steeple hangs a small shrill bell, formerly called the Sanctus, 
 and now the Saints' or Parson's Bell. " It was rung before the Reformation, 
 when the Priest came to the Sanctus, 'Holy, holy, holy, Lord God of Sabaoth!' 
 so that those without the church might participate in the devotions of those pre- 
 sent at the most solemn part of the divine office." The Parish Choir, No. 59. 
 
140 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 parish whipping-post ; and the monument of Sir Theodore May erne, 
 the physician, (buried here,) a friend of Van Dyck, to whom he commu- 
 nicated valuable information relating to pigments. Here also are the 
 coffins of Miss Reay, and Hackman, her assassin, fastened together by a 
 chain ; the former covered with crimson velvet, the latter made of 
 rough deal. Jack Sheppard is likewise buried here ; and Nell Gwynn, in 
 the church. Among other persons of note interred here are Paul Van- 
 somer and Laguerre, the painters ; Dobson, the English Van Dyck : 
 Hilliard, the miniature-painter ; Nicholas Stone, the sculptor ; Hon. 
 Robert Boyle,* the chemist, whose funeral sermon was preached by 
 his friend, Dr. Burnet ; George Farquhar, the comic dramatist ; Roubi- 
 liac, the sculptor ; John Hunter, the surgeon : and Scott, the author 
 of a Visit to Paris, who was killed in a duel in 1821. In the old 
 church was buried, Oct. 31, 1679, Sir Edmundberry Godfrey, found 
 murdered in a ditch near Chalk Farm : the corpse was brought from 
 Bridewell Hospital with great pomp, eight knights supporting the 
 pall, and attended by all the City aldermen, 72 London ministers, and 
 above 100 persons of distinction. At the funeral sermon, two divines 
 stood by the preacher, lest he should be assassinated by the Papists. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S, LUDGATE, near the site of the City gate of that 
 name, in Ludgate-street, was rebuilt by "NVren after the Great Fire of 
 1666: the steeple has a small gallery, and rises 168 feet. Between 
 Ludgate-street and the body of the church is an ambulatory, the whole 
 depth of the tower, so as to lessen within the church the" noise from 
 the street. In the vestry-room are a carved seat (date 1690"), and 
 several curious coffers or chests. The font has a Greek inscription, 
 a palindrome, i. e., it reads the same backwards as forwards. In the 
 old church was the following epitaph, dated 1590 : 
 
 Earth goes to T I" As mold to mold 
 
 Earth treads on I v ,^ h J Glittering in gold 
 Earth as to f tartn 1 Return nere should 
 
 Earth shall to J I Goe ere he would 
 
 Earth upon "I f Consider may 
 
 Earth goes to I F ., J Passed away 
 Earth though on f ] Is stout and gay 
 
 Earth shall from J I Passe poor away. 
 
 The spire of St. Martin's, backed by the campanile towers and majestic 
 dome of St. Paul's, seen from Fleet-street, is a fine architectural group. 
 ST. MARTIN'S OUTWICH (Otteswich), Bishopsgate-street, was ori- 
 ginally built in the fourteenth century, in the Pointed style, with a low 
 tiled roof and square tower; and the churchwardens' accounts (1508 to 
 1545) contain entries of ancient usages previous to the Reformation : as, 
 ' Wyne on Relyks Sondaye, Id. ;" ' Paschall or Hallowed Taper, tene- 
 bur Candell and Cross Candell, License to eate flesh," &c. This church 
 escaped the Great Fire of 1666, but was greatly injured in a confla- 
 gration in Nov. 1765, which burnt fifty houses. In 1796, the present 
 church was built by S. P. CockerelL 'its form is oval, with a recess 
 for the chancel, in the ceiling of which is a light filled with stained 
 glass, mostly from the old church, There are also several monuments 
 from the same, including two recumbent stone figures of John Oter- 
 wich and his wife, their head-cushions supported by angels ; the feet 
 of the man resting against a lion, and those of the female against a 
 dog. Here also is a canopied tomb, date 1500, with remains of br 
 figures, armorial bearings, and labels against the back ; and seve 
 stone effigies to the memory of Alderman Staper (1594) : " hee w 
 the greatest merchant in his tyme, the chiefest actor in discovere 
 
 * Boyle was born in the year in which Bacon died, (1627,) and Newton in 
 in which Galileo died (1642); Boyle being fifteen years older than Newton. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARY-AT-HILL. 141 
 
 the trades of Turkey and East India, &c. ;" also two brass figures of 
 rectors of the church in the fifteenth century. Few would expect to 
 find these monumental treasures within a church of such un-ecclesias- 
 tical design. The South Sea House, which is in this parish, was given 
 to the church by Mrs. Margaret Taylor in 1667. 
 
 ST. MART ABBOTS', Kensington, the mother-church, was rebuilt 
 about 1691 : here are monuments to Edward, eighth Earl of Warwick 
 and Holland (d. 1759), with his effigies, seated, and reposing upon an 
 urn; and to the three Columns : Francis Colman ; his son, George, 
 "the Elder ;" and his son, "the Younger :" the two latter wrote seve- 
 ral comedies, and were proprietors of the Haymarket Theatre. In the 
 churchyard are monuments to Jortin, author of the Life of Erasmus, 
 and Vicar of Kensington ; and to Mrs. Inchbald (a Roman Catholic), 
 a beauty, a virtue, a player, and authoress of the Simple Story. Here, 
 too, is buried William Courten, the traveller and naturalist, whose 
 curiosities, it is said, filled ten rooms in the Middle Temple : this col- 
 lection he bequeathed to Sir Hans Sloane, and thus it became the 
 nucleus of the British Museum. St. Mary's, Kensington, had a "Vicar 
 of Bray" in one Thomas Hodges, collated to the living by Archbishop 
 Juxon : he kept his preferment during the Civil War and interregnum, 
 by joining alternately with either party; although a frequent preacher 
 before the Long Parliament and one of the Assembly of Divines, he was 
 made Dean of Hereford after the Restoration, but continued Vicar of 
 Kensington. Murray's Environs of London, page 69. 
 
 ST. MARY ABCHURCH, Abchurch-lane, was destroyed by the Great 
 Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren in 1686 : its tower and spire are 
 140 feet high : the interior' has a large cupola, painted by Sir James 
 Thornhill ; and an altar-piece, with fruit and flowers, exquisitely carved 
 by Gibbons, and originally painted after nature by Thornhill. 
 
 ST. MARY ALDERMARY, Bow-lane, destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 1666, was rebuilt by Wren, a legacy of 5000/. being left for that pur- 
 pose. It has rich fan-groined ceilings ; a tower, with four turrets, 
 130 feet high, and a fine bell-tower. Among the monuments is a tablet, 
 beautifully sculptured by Bacon, but bearing no inscription. In the 
 great storm of 1703, two of the turrets were blown down. 
 
 ST. MARY-AT-HILL, on the ascent from Billingsgate, was partly re- 
 built by Wren, between 1672 and 1677, the west-end tower being of sub- 
 sequent date. In 1848-9, the interior was entirely refitted, with such an 
 extent of carving as had not been executed before in the City for many 
 years. The pillars supporting the organ gallery are ornamented with 
 fruit and flowers. The great screen has a frame of oak ; the rector's 
 pew and reading-desk are enriched with carved open tracery, and 
 brackets surmounted with the royal supporters, bearing shields with 
 V.R. 1849. The pulpit is entirely new, and is very elaborately carved: 
 in the sounding board are bosses of flowers of 12-inch projection; 
 from the eyes of the volutes garlands of flowers are suspended, which 
 pass through the split trusses, and fall down, crossing and uniting be- 
 hind ; and within the pulpit, at the back, is a well-executed drop of 
 fruit and flowers : on the front of the organ-gallery are bold clusters 
 of musical trophies and garlands of flowers, with birds and fruit ; and 
 the royal arms, with a mantle scroll, about ten feet long, form a per- 
 forated screen on the top of the gallery. All the carved work is 
 by Mr. W. Gibbs Rogers (see CARVINGS, page 67). The organ was 
 built by Mr. Hill, on the German plan, and contains two manuals and 
 a pedal organ. Brand, who compiled the Popular Antiquities, and was 
 Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries, was Rector of St. Mary-at- 
 Hill from 1789 till his death in 1806 : he is buried in the chancel. 
 
142 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Battersea, a church of tasteless design, built in 1776, 
 is remarkable only for Roubiliac's elegant monument to the cele- 
 brated Lord Bolingbroke. (See pp. 33, 34.) 
 
 ST. MARY-LE-BONE, or St. Mary-at-the-Bourne, at the end of the 
 High-street, verging on the New-road, was originally the mother- 
 church of Marylebone, and was rebuilt in 1741, on the site of an edi- 
 fice erected about 1400, on the removal of the ancient church of Tyburn, 
 " which stood in a lonely place near the highway (on or near the site 
 of the present Court House, at the corner of Stratford-place), subject 
 to the depredations of robbers, who frequently stole the images, bells, 
 and ornaments." (Lysons's Environs, vol. iii. 1795.) In Vertue's Plan, 
 about 1560, the only building seen between the village of St. Giles's 
 and Primrose Hill is the little solitary church of Marybone : its in- 
 terior is shewn in one of Hogarth's plates of the Rake's Progress 
 (the Marriage), where some ill-spelt verses on the vault of the Forset 
 family, and the churchwardens' names, are accurately copied; this 
 plate was published in 1735, and part of the original inscription was 
 preserved in the present church, converted into a parish chapel in 1817, 
 on the consecration of the church in the New-road. In the chapel 
 are tablets to Gibbs, the architect; Baretti, the friend of Dr. John- 
 son ; and Caroline Watson, the engraver : and in the churchyard is a 
 monument to James Ferguson, the astronomer. Among the burials 
 in the Register are James Figg, the prize-fighter; Vanderbank, the 
 portrait-painter ; Hoyle, aged 90, who wrote the Treatise on Whist ; 
 Rysbrack, the sculptor ; and Allan Ramsay, portrait-painter, and son 
 of the author of the Gentle Shepherd. In Paddington-street are two 
 burial-grounds attached to this church. In 1511, the Marylebone 
 curate's stipend was only 13s. per annum ; in 1650, the impropriation 
 was valued at 801. per annum, and Richard Bonner was curate ; and 
 before the late separation the value of the living was 1898J.* 
 
 ST. MARYLEBONE (New Church), New Road, opposite York Gate, 
 Regent's Park, designed by T. Hardwick, father of P. Hardwick, R.A., 
 was originally built " on speculation" as a chapel ; and was purchased 
 by the parish, and converted into a handsome church, at the cost of 
 60,OOOZ. It has a lofty stone clock-tower and portico ; the interior was 
 at first objected to as too theatrical in arrangement : it has an altar- 
 picture of the Holy Family, painted and presented by B. West, P.R.A. 
 Cosway and Northcote, Royal Academicians, are buried here. 
 
 ST. MARY-LE-BOW, Cheapside, "for divers accidents happening 
 there, hath been made more famous than any other parish church of the 
 whole city or suburbs." (Stow.) If not originally a Roman temple, 
 as was once believed, it was one of the earliest churches built by our 
 Norman conquerors. Stow says it was named St. Mary de Arcubus, 
 from its being built on arches of stone, the semicircular-arched Norman 
 crypt, extant to this day : and hence is named the " Court of Arches," 
 formerly held in the church. About 1190, Longbeard, ringleader of a 
 tumult, took refuge in the steeple, which was fired to drive him out : in 
 1271, part of the steeple fell, and killed several persons ; and some years 
 
 * In a Map published in 1742, the diminutive church of St. Mary-le-Bone is 
 shewn detached from London, with two zig-zag ways leading to it, one near 
 Vere-street, then the western extremity of the new buildings, and the second 
 from Tottenham- Court-road. Rows of houses, with their backs to the fields, 
 extended from St. Giles's Pound to Oxford-market ; but Tottenham-Court-road 
 had only one cluster on the west side, and the spring- water house. The zig-zag 
 way above mentioned, near Vere-street, still retaining its original name of Mary- 
 le-bone lane, was the communication between the high road and the village. A 
 friend, born in 1780, remembers his father and mother relating how they walked 
 out through, the fields, to be married at Marybone Church. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARY-LE-BOW. 143 
 
 after its repair, one Ducket, a goldsmith, fled here for Sanctuary, and 
 was murdered. The old steeple was entirely rebuilt by 1469, when the 
 Common Council ordered that Bow bells should be rung nightly at nine 
 o'clock, a vestige of the Norman curfew ; in 1472, two tenements in 
 Hosier-lane (now Bow-lane), were bequeathed " to the maintenance of 
 Bow bell," which being rung for the closing of shops somewhat late, 
 the young men, 'prentices, and others in Cheap, made this rhyme : 
 
 " Clarke of the Bow bell, with the yellow lockes, 
 
 For thy late ringing, thy head shall have knockes." 
 To which the Clerk replied : 
 
 " Children of Cheape, hold you all still, 
 
 For you shall have the Bow bell rung at your will." 
 
 William Copeland, churchwarden, either gave a new bell for this pur- 
 pose, or caused the old one to be re-cast, in 1515 : Weever says the 
 former. In 1512, the arches and spire of the tower were provided with 
 lanterns, as beacons for travellers : the latter is shewn in the View of 
 London, 1543 (in the Sutherland Collection) ; it has a central lantern, or 
 bell-turret, and a pinnacle at each corner. The church was rebuilt, as 
 we now see it, by Wren, after the Great Fire of 1666, and the belfry was 
 prepared for twelve bells, though only eight were placed ; but two were 
 subsequently added, and the set of ten bells was first rung in 1762. (See 
 BELLS, p. 38.) The earliest monument in the old church was that to Sir 
 John Coventry, Mayor in 1425 : Weever gives his epitaph. The pre- 
 sent church contains a large marble sarcophagus, with figures of Faith 
 and a cherub, and a medallion bust, by Banks, R.A., of Bishop Newton, 
 twenty-five years rector of this parish, and interred in St. Paul's. 
 
 Independently of ordinary services in the church, prayers are read and the 
 Sacrament administered at eight o'clock in the morning on every festival through- 
 out the year which does not fall on a Sunday. This is in compliance with the 
 will of Mr. Robert Nelson, author of the Companion 1o the Festivals and Fasts of 
 the Church of England, who left for the purpose 31. per annum. Formerly, the 
 Boyle lectures were delivered here, but they have been discontinued for some 
 years past. The Bishops elect of the province of Canterbury attend at this church, 
 previous to their consecration, to take the oaths of supremacy, &c. 
 
 Bow Church is one of Wren's finest works. The large Palladian door- 
 ways are noble ; and the campanile is picturesque. 
 
 The circular peristyle, or continued range of columns, which rises from a sty- 
 lobate on the top of the tower (a miniature representation of that around the 
 dome of St. Paul's), let it be viewed from what point it may be, is the most beau- 
 tiful feature of the steeple. By the introduction of the combined scrolls at each 
 angle of the tower, Wren has endeavoured to prevent that appearance of abrupt- 
 ness which would otherwise have resulted from the sudden transition from the 
 square to the circular form, and has caused the outline to be gradually pyra- 
 midical from the top of the tower to the vane. The flying buttresses, which 
 appear to support the columns above the peristyle, are introduced chiefly with a 
 view to effect the same end. 
 
 The spire was repaired by Sir W. Staines when a young stonemason ; 
 and in 1820 it was in part rebuilt by George Gwilt, but was not low- 
 ered, as generally believed. Its height is 225 feet ; the dragon, ten feet 
 long, was then re-gilt, and a young Irishman descended from the spire 
 point on its back, pushing it from the cornices and scaffolds with his feet, 
 in the presence of thousands of spectators.* Over the doorway in Cheap- 
 side is a small balcony, intended as a place to view processions from. (See 
 CHEAPSIDE, p. 74.) The present Bells are much heavier, and more 
 
 * One of Mother Shipton's prophecies was, that when the dragon of Bow 
 Church and the grasshopper of the Royal Exchange should meet, London streets 
 would be deluged with blood ! In 1820, both these vanes were lying together in a 
 stonemason's yard in Old-street Road, where the upper portion of Wren's spire is 
 preserved to this day. 
 
144 CUPJO'SITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 powerful in tone, than the first set. It requires two men to ring the 
 largest (the tenor, 53 cwt., key C). The ringers belong to a society called 
 the " College Youths," founded in 1637, and named from the College of 
 St. Spirit and Marv, built by Sir Richard Whittington, on College- 
 hill, Upper Thames-street, and burnt down in the Great Fire. A book 
 recording the names of the founders and members of the " College 
 Youths, from 1637 to 1724, was lost about the latter date, and only 
 recovered in 1840. Another society, called the " Cumberland Society, ' 
 rang for a few years at Bow Church. There is a peal called the " "\Vhit- 
 tington Peal," which can only be rung on twelve bells ; and the College 
 Youths are anxious to have two bells added to the present number, as 
 the peal is considered incomplete. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Herne Hill, between Camberwell and Dulwich, was built 
 in 1844-5, by Stevens and Alexander, in the Perpendicular Gothic style 
 of the 15th century. It has a lofty stone tower and spire, and a highly- 
 decorated interior : the ceiling is divided, by moulded beams and Gothic 
 tracery, into panels, elaborately painted; the beams have illuminated 
 Scripture texts ; all the windows are filled with stained glass ; the open 
 seats are of polished oak ; the floor is laid with coloured encaustic 
 tiles, and the chancel-steps with beautiful porcelain, by Copeland ; the 
 Decalogue, &c., is written in illuminated characters upon porcelain 
 slabs ; and the pulpit panels are filled with paintings of the Evange- 
 lists and Apostles. As this was one of the earliest specimens of modern 
 High-Church embellishment, so it remains one of the most beautiful. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Islington, " the old church," is the successor of a church 
 upon the same site : this had an embattled tower, with a bell-turret, 
 and was presumed to be 300 years old on being taken down in 1751, 
 when the present church was erected by Launcelot Dowbiggin, and 
 opened May 26, 1754. It has a tower and stone spire, 164 feet high, 
 and a fine peal of eight bells, each inscribed with a couplet inculcating 
 loyalty, love, and harmony. In 1787, when a lightning conductor was 
 affixed to the spire, one Thomas Bird constructed round it a wicker- 
 work scaffold, with steps within. The parisli register dates from 1557. 
 Among the persons buried here are Dame Alice Owen, who founded a 
 free-school and almshouses in the parish (see p. 5) ; Dr. Hawes, one 
 of the originators of the Humane Society ; Earlom, the mezzotinto 
 engraver ; and John Nichols, F.S.A., the editor of the Gentleman's 
 Magazine, his grave being a few yards from the house in which he was 
 born. In this parish are three Gothic churches, with towers, built by C. 
 Barry, R.A. : St. Paul's, Ball's Pond, and St. John's, Upper Holloway, 
 1828 ; and Trinity, Cloudesley-square, 1829. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Lambeth, the mother- church of the manor and pa- 
 rish, stands within the patriarchal shade of Lambeth Palace, and has 
 a Perpendicular tower, lately restored. In the Bishop's Register at 
 "Winchester, date 1377, is a commission to compel the inhabitants to 
 erect this tower for their church, then newly built. In the church- 
 wardens' accounts, " pew es" are mentioned as early as the reign of 
 Philip and Mary. The eastern end of the north aisle, built 1522, by the 
 Duke of Norfolk, is called the Howard Chapel. In the church are the 
 tombs of these Archbishops of Canterbury : Bancroft, d.1610; Parker, 
 d. 1675 ; Tenison, d. 1715 ; Hutton, d. 1758 ; Seeker, (in passage between 
 church and palace,) d. 1768 ; Cornwallis, d. 1783 ; Moore, d. 1805. 
 
 In burying Archbishop Cornwaliis, were found the remains of Thirlby, the 
 first and only Bishop of Westminster : he died a prisoner in Lambeth Palace (temp. 
 Elizabeth). The body was discovered wrapped in fine linen, the face perfect, the 
 beard long and white , the linen and woollen garments well preserved ; the cap, silk j 
 and point lace, as in portraits of Archbishop Juxon ; slouched hat, under left arm ; j 
 cassock, like apron with strings ; and pieces of garments like a pilgrim's habit. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARY MAGDALEN. 145 
 
 Here also are the tombs of Alderman Goodbehere ; Madame Storace, 
 the singer; Peter Dollond, inventor of the achromatic telescope ; and 
 Elias Ashmole, the antiquary. In the churchyard is the altar-tomb 
 of the Tradescants, father and son : 
 
 " These famous antiquarians, that had been 
 
 Both gardeners to the Rose and Lily queen." Epitaph. 
 
 The tomb is sculptured with palm-trees, hydra and skull, obelisk and 
 pyramid, and Grecian ruins, crocodile, and shells. In the Register are 
 entered the burials of Simon Forman, the astrologer; and Edward 
 Moore, who wrote the tragedy of the " Gamester." In a window of 
 the middle aisle is painted a pedlar with his pack and dog, said to re- 
 present the person who bequeathed to the parish of Lambeth "Pedlar's 
 Acre," provided his portrait and that of his dog were perpetually pre- 
 served in one of the church windows. When the painting was first put 
 up is unknown, but it existed in 1608 ; "a new glass pedlar" was put 
 up in 1703, but removed in 1816.* 
 
 ST. MARY MAGDALENE, Bermondsey, was originally founded by the 
 monks of Bermondsey, it is supposed, early in the reign of Edward III. ; 
 but taken down in 1680, when the present church was built upon the 
 same site : in 1830, the west front was remodelled, the tower repaired, 
 and the large pointed window restored. Among the communion plate 
 is an ancient silver salver, supposed to have belonged to the Abbey of 
 Bermondsey : in the centre, a knight in plate armour is kneeling to 
 a female, about to place a helmet on his head, at the gate of a castle or 
 fortified town : from the fashion of the armour and the form of the hel- 
 met, this relic is referred to the age of Edward II. In the church is 
 a monument to Dr. Joseph Watson, more than thirty-seven years teacher 
 to the first public institution in this country for the education of the 
 deaf and dumb, established in this parish, 1792. In the churchyard is 
 buried Mrs. S. Utton, who was tapped twenty-five times for dropsy, 
 and had 157 gallons of water taken from her; also Mrs. S. Wood, tapped 
 ninety-seven times, water 461 gallons; and the husband of the latter, 
 who died 18-37, aged 108 years! (See BERMONDSEY, page 40.) 
 
 ST. MARY MAGDALEN, Old Fish-street, rebuilt by Wren, after the 
 Great Fire of 1666, contains a small brass tablet, date 1586, with the 
 figure of a man, and the following lines in black letter: >, 
 " In God the Lord put all your trust^^) 
 
 Repente your formar wicked waies, 
 Elizabethe our Queen moste juste 
 
 Bless her, O Lord, in all her daies; 
 So Lord encrease good councelers, 
 
 And preachers of his holie worde 
 
 Mislike all papistes desiers 
 
 - sworde. 
 
 O Lord, cut them off with thy s 
 
 V J-JU1U. VUt l/UCill Ull W 1111 ILty &VYUIUC. 
 
 How small soever the gift shall be 
 
 Thank God for him who gave it thee. 
 Ill penie loaves to III poor foulkes 
 Geve every Sabbath day for aye." 
 
 The Rev. II. H. Barham ( Thomas Ingoldsby] was rector of this church 
 from 1824 to his death in 1845. 
 
 * The name of the benefactor is unknown; but it has been suggested that 
 this portrait was intended rather as a rebus upon the name " Chapman" than upon 
 his trade : for in Swaff ham Church, Norfolk, is the portrait of John Chapman, a 
 great benefactor to that parish ; and the device of a pedlar and his pack occurs in 
 several parts of the church, which has given rise to nearly the same tradition at 
 Swaffham as at Lambeth. Preface to Hearne's Caii Antiquitates, p. 84. Besides, 
 'edlai's Acre was not originally so called, but the Church Hopes, or Hopys, (an 
 isthmus of land projecting into the river,) and is entered in the Register as be- 
 queathed by " a person unknown." Popular Errors Explained, #c. p. 293. 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. MARY'S MATFELON, Whitechapel, at the eastern end of High- 
 street, was originally a chapel-of-ease to Stebenhith, or Stepney ; its 
 second name being from Matfel, in Hebrew, a woman recently deli- 
 vered of a son. Stow traces the name to the wives of the parish hav- 
 ing slain out of hand a certain Frenchman who had murdered and plun- 
 dered a devout widow, by whom he had been cherished and brought 
 up of alms. This occurred in 1428, the sixth of King Henry VI. ; but 
 Stow also finds the name as early as the twenty -first of Richard II. 
 The old church was taken down in 1673, and rebuilt nearly as at pre- 
 sent : it has a gas-lit clock-dial. 
 
 The Parish Register records that Richard Brandon was buried in the church- 
 yard, June 24, 1649; and a marginal note, (not in the hand of the Registrar, but 
 bearing the mark of antiquity,) states: " This R. Brandon is supposed to have cut 
 off the head of Charles I." He was assisted by his man Ralph Jones, a ragman in 
 Rosemary-lane; and a tract in the British Museum, entitled, "The Confession of 
 Richard Brandon, the Hangman, upon his Deathbed, concerning the Beheading 
 of His late Majesty," printed in 1649, relates that the nijiht after the execution he 
 returned home to his wife, living in Rosemary-lane, and gave her the money he 
 had received, 30/. ; that about three days before he died, he lay speechless. " For 
 the burial whereof, great store of wines were sent by the sheriff of the city of London, 
 and a great multitude of people stood wayting to see his corpse carried to the 
 churchyard, some crying out, 'Hang him," rogue!' 'Bury him in the dunghill!' 
 others pressing upon him, saying they would quarter him for executing the King, 
 insomuch that the churchwardens and masters of the parish were fain to come 
 for the suppression of them; and with great difficulty he was at last carried to 
 Whitechapel churchyard." See Ellis's Letters on English History, vol. iii. se- 
 cond series ; and the Trials of Charles I. vol. xxxi. Family Library. 
 
 Sx. MART'S, Newington-Butts, was built in 1791-3 by Hurlbatt, in 
 place of a smaller church. It contains a monument with "statues to Sir 
 Hugh Brawne, buried in the old church, 161 4, and who "for the space 
 of twenty-two years was the whole ornament of the parish." Here, 
 too, is a tablet to Dr. Fothergill ; and to Captain M. "NVaghorn, one of 
 the few persons who escaped from the sinking of the Royal George, 
 in 1782. The parsonage-house was originally built of wood, and sur- 
 rounded by a moat, now filled up. In this parish was a small water- 
 course called the river Tigris, part of Cnut's trench ; and a parishioner 
 who died at the age of 109 years, early in the present century, remem- 
 bered when boats came up as far as the church at Newington. 
 
 In the church is buried Mr. Sergeant Davy (d. 1780). He was originally a 
 chemist at Exeter : and a sheriff's officer coming to serve on him a process from 
 the Court of Common Pleas, he civilly asked him to drink ; while the man was 
 drinking, Davy contrived to heat a poker, and then told the bailiff that if he did 
 not eat the writ, which was of sheepskin and as good as mutton, he should 
 swallow the poker ! The man preferred the parchment; but the Court of Com- 
 mon Pleas, not then accustomed to Mr. Davy's jokes, sent for him to Westminster 
 Hall, and for contempt of their process, committed him to the Fleet Prison. 
 From this circumstance, and some unfortunate man whom he met there, he ac- 
 quired a taste for the law ; and on his discharge he applied himself to the study 
 of it in earnest, was called to the bar, made a sergeant, and was for along time in 
 good practice. See Manning and Bray's History of Surrey. 
 
 ST. MAKY'S, Paddington, on the Green, was rebuilt in 1788-91 ; and 
 its churchyards are remarkable as the burial-place of several eminent 
 artists ; among whom are, Bushnell, the sculptor of the statues on 
 Temple Bar ; Barrett, the landscape-painter ; Banks and Nollekens, 
 the sculptors ; Yivares, Hall, and Schiavonetti, the engravers : Caleb 
 Whitefoord (see Goldsmith's Retaliati on] ; Mrs. Siddons, the great act- 
 ress (d. 1831) ; Collins, the painter ; and others. Hogarth was married 
 in this church to the daughter of Sir James Thornhill, March 23, 1729. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Rotherhithe, close to the shaft of the Thames Tunnel, 
 was rebuilt in 1736-39, upon the site of the old church, which had stood 
 above 400 years. This new church has a lofty spire : in the vestry -room 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MARY'S, STOKE-NEWINGTON. 147 
 
 is a portrait of the royal martyr, King Charles I., in his robes, kneel- 
 ing at an altar, and holding a crown of thorns, the composition resem- 
 bling the frontispiece to the Eihon Basilike. In the churchyard is 
 buried Prince Le Boo, a native of the Pellew Islands, d. Dec. 29, 1784, 
 set. 20 ; over his remains a monument has been erected by the East In- 
 dia Company, in testimony of his father's humane and kind treatment 
 of the crew of the Antelope, wrecked off Goo-roo-raa, one of the Pel- 
 lew Islands, on the night of August 9, 3783. 
 
 ST. MARY-LE-SAVOY, a Perpendicular chapel, in the rear of the 
 south side of the Strand, and west of Wellington-street, is all that 
 remains of the Hospital of St. John Baptist, built by Henry VII. upon 
 the site of the palace of Peter-le- Savoy, burnt by the Kentish rebels in 
 1381, when John of Gaunt was its proprietor. The other relics of 
 the Hospital were cleared away on the building of Waterloo Bridge. 
 The chapel was originally dedicated to the Saviour, the Virgin, and St. 
 John the Baptist : but when the old church of St. Mary-le- Strand was 
 destroyed by the Protector Somerset, the parishioners united them- 
 selves to those of the precinct of the Savoy ; and the chapel, being used 
 as their church, acquired the name of St. Mary-le-Savoy. It was built 
 in 1505, of squared stone and boulders, has a low bell-tower and large 
 Tudor windows. The interior has a remarkably fine ceiling, with carved 
 figures of the Holy Lamb, and emblems of the Plantagenets down to the 
 last of the Tudors ; restored and emblazoned, in 1843, by "Willement, who 
 also reglazed the altar-window with the figure of St. John the Baptist. 
 The altar-screen, said to have been designed by Sir Reginald Bray, has 
 also been restored by Sydney Smirke. The chapel was endowed by Henry 
 VII. ; and the incumbent, to this day, receives an annual fee by royal 
 warrant. The edifice was last repaired at the expense of Queen Vic- 
 toria, in 1843. Several persons of historic note are buried here, and 
 have figure monuments ; here lies Gawin Douglas, who translated 
 Virgil (d. 1522) ; George Wither, the poet (d. 1667); and D. Cameron, 
 the last person who suffered for the Rebellion of 1745, to whom was 
 erected a marble relief tablet, by his great grandson, in 1846, " one 
 hundred years after the Battle of Culloden." The Savoy was the scene 
 of the last attempt made by the State and the authorities of the Church 
 to reconcile the Church and the Dissenters ; the Savoy Conference 
 finally settled the Book of Common Prayer ; and here was written the 
 preface to the Liturgy, which, it is stated, was first publicly read in 
 this chapel. Here many of the Bishops were consecrated ; and among 
 them, Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man, by Archbishop Sharpe, in 1698. 
 A considerable part of the Hospital was burnt in the reign of Charles 
 II. ; after which, and until the removal of the buildings, the Savoy 
 was principally occupied as barracks for soldiers, and a prison for de- 
 serters. Where the middle Savoy gate was, is now Savoy-street, with 
 the German Lutheran Church, of brick, and modern date, on the west 
 side. The approach to Waterloo Bridge from the Strand, or Welling- 
 ton-street and Lancaster-place, covers the entire site of the old Duchy- 
 lane and great part of the Hospital. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, SOMERSET, (Summer's hith, or wharf,) was destroyed 
 in the Great Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren in 1695 : it has a tower, 
 with pedestals and urns and obelisks upon the summit, 120 feet high ; 
 and the keystones of the arches are sculptured with grotesque heads. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Stoke Newington, (2| miles north from London,) in the 
 patronage of the Prebendary of Newington, in St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 was repaired, or "rather new builded" (Stow), in 1563, of hewn stones, 
 flint, and pebbles, but has been much modernised. It has a square em- 
 battled tower, about 60 feet high, with six bells, with an additional 
 
148 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bell in a wooden cupola, and a clock made 1723. The chapel, and a 
 portion of the body of the church, under two other roofs, formed the 
 whole of the ancient structure. The painted altar-window represents 
 the Virgin Mary and the Purification, the Birth and Preaching of St. 
 John the Baptist, and the arms of Queen Elizabeth; and in the chancel 
 windows are the arms of the Drapers' Company and the City of Lon- 
 don. Among the communion plate is a large silver offertory aims-dish. 
 In the chancel is an elegant coloured alabaster monume'nt to John 
 Dudley, Esq., and his widow, afterwards married to Thomas Sutton, 
 Esq., founder of the Charterhouse: the writer of the long Latin in- 
 scription was rewarded with 10*., according to the roll of Mr. Dudley's 
 funeral expenses : and the tomb was restored in 1808 by subscription of 
 grateful Carthusians. Behind the church is Queen Elizabeth's Walk, a 
 grove of tall trees; and at Xewington-green is King Harry's Walk. 
 At Stoke Newington lived many years Mrs. Barbauld, the amiable edu- 
 cationist, who taught Lord Denman when a boy the art of declamation ; 
 and Mr. Barbauld was for four years morning preacher to an Unitarian 
 congregation at Newington-green. 
 
 ST. MARY-LE-STRAND, nearly upon the site of the old Maypole, was 
 the first built (1714-17) of Queen Anne's Fifty Churches, but is to this 
 day called " the New Church." It was not consecrated till Jan. 1, 1723. 
 Gibbs, the architect, was desired by the Commissioners " to beautify 
 it," on account of its public situation : hence it is overloaded with or~- 
 nament. It was originally to have had only a small bell-tower at the 
 west end, changed to a steeple, which therefore appears to stand on the 
 roof ; it consists of three receding stories, surmounted by a vane : when 
 it was last repaired, at an expense of 47 1. 10*., the scaffolding cost 301. 
 The exterior of the body is of two stories, Ionic below, the lower wall 
 " solid, to keep out noises from the street ;" and Composite above, sur- 
 mounted by a balustrade and urns :* the west end has a semicircular Ionic 
 portico, and occupies the Maypole site. The interior is grand, but too 
 florid, with Corinthian and Composite pilasters, ceiling crowded with 
 ornaments, and the semicircular altar-part, with the triangular sym- 
 bol of the Trinity glorified, and cherubim, &c. The windows are hung 
 with crimson drapery, and in the side intercolumniations are paintings 
 of the Annunciation and the Passion, by Brown. The old church was 
 " next beyond Arundell House, on the street side," and was " called of 
 the Xativitie of our Lady (St. Mary), and the Innocents of the Strand." 
 (Stoic.) Seymour states, that its site became part of the garden of 
 Somerset House, and that when the Protector pulled down this old 
 church, he promised to build a new one for the parishioners, but death 
 prevented his fulfilling that engagement. 
 
 ST. MARY'S, Windham-place, Marylebone, was designed by Sir 
 Robert Smirke, R.A., and consecrated* Jan. 7, 1824, when the Rev. T. 
 Frognall Dibdin, D.D., was instituted rector. This church has a large 
 painted east window, of the Ascension, said to have cost 250 guineas. 
 The circular tower and cupola, 135 feet high, are picturesque. 
 
 ST. MARY'S WOOLNOTH, one of the most striking and original 
 churches in the metropolis, is between the western ends of Lombard- 
 street and King- William-street. This has been the site of a Christian 
 church from a very early period, and previously of a pagan temple. 
 The church was rebuilt early in the fifteenth century, much injured by 
 the Great Fire of 16b'6, and" repaired by Wren in 1677 ; to this Alder- 
 man Sir R. Viner, living in Lombard-street, contributed liberally, to 
 
 * During the procession to proclaim Peace, in 1802, one of these urns was acci- 
 dentally pushed down on the crowd below, when three persons were killed, and 
 several others much hurt. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. MICHAEL'S, BASSISHAW. 149 
 
 commemorate which, says Stow, " a number of vines were spread over 
 that part of the church which faced his house." In 1716, the church, 
 as we now see it, was rebuilt by Hawksmoor : the west front, which 
 has an elongated tower, like two towers united, has no prototype in 
 England ; but its details are so heavy as to indicate rather a fortress 
 and prison than a church. The interior, on the model of a Roman 
 atrium, is nearly square : it has twelve Corinthian columns, admi- 
 rably arranged, and is profusely ornamented with panels and carved 
 mouldings. It contains an organ built by "Father Smith, in 1G81." 
 Here is a tablet to the Rev. John Newton (d. 1807), the friend of Cow- 
 per, and rector of this church for twenty-eight years : it bears this 
 inscription, written by himself: 
 
 "John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in 
 Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, preserved, 
 restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long laboured to 
 destroy."* 
 
 The origin of Woolnoth is uncertain ; but is attributed to the beam for 
 weighing wool, which stood in the churchyard of St . Mary's "Woolchurch, 
 in the Stocks Market, on the site of the Mansion-house : this church was 
 burnt in 1666, and the parish is now united to St. Mary's Woolnoth. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Bethnal Green, built in 1740, has at the west end 
 a low square tower, with a large^stone vase at each angle. A second 
 church, St. John's, was built by the late Sir John Soane, and much 
 resembles his Grecian Church of the Holy Trinity, Regent's Park. In 
 1839, there were only these two churches for a population of 80,000, 
 and schools for about 1000 children. There have since been built in the 
 parish ten churches : St. Matthew's, St. John's, St. Peter's, St. An- 
 drew's, St. Philip's, St. James the Less, St. James the Great, St. Bar- 
 tholomew's, St. Jude's; and St. Simon Zelotes, the latter at the sole ex- 
 pense of Mr. W. Cotton : whilst the number of children now educated in 
 schools in connexion with these churches exceeds 6000. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Brixton, at the junction of the Tulse-hill and Brix- 
 ton-hill roads, is of Grecian-Doric design, by Porden, and was conse- 
 crated in 1824 : it has a noble portico, resembling the proanos of a 
 Grecian temple ; at the east end is a tower surmounted with an 
 octagonal temple, from that of Cyrrhestes, at Athens. In the church- 
 yard is a costly mausoleum of Grecian design, upwards of 25 feet high. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Oakley-crescent, City Road, built by Scott, in 
 1848, in the Early English style, has an ornamented four-storied tower 
 and spire, eastern lancet windows, and other meritorious details. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, BASSISHAW (haugh, or hall, of the Basing family), 
 Basinghall- street, was originally founded about 1140, and rebuilt in 
 1460 ; here was interred Sir John Gresham, uncle to Sir Thomas Gres- 
 
 * "I remember, when a lad of about fifteen, being taken by my uncle to hear 
 the well-known Mr. Newton (the friend of Cowper the poet) preach his wife's 
 funeral sermon in the church of St. Mary's Woolnoth, in Lombard-street. Newton 
 was then well stricken in years, with a tremulous voice, and in the costume of 
 the full-bottomed wig of the day. He had, and always had, the entire possession 
 of the ear of his congregation. He spoke at first feebly and leisurely, but as he 
 warmed, his ideas and his periods seemed mutually to enlarge : the tears tiickled 
 down his cheeks, and his action and expression were at times quite out of the 
 ordinary course of things. It was as the ' mens agitows molem et magno se cor- 
 pore miscens.' In fact, the preacher was one with his discourse. To this day 
 I have not forgotten his text, Hab. iii. 17-18: 'Although the fig-tree shall not 
 blossom, neither shall fruit be in the vines ; the labour of the olive shall fail, and 
 the fields shall yield no meat; the flock shall be cut off from the fold, and there 
 shall be no herd in the stalls ; yet I will rejoice in the Lord, I will joy in the God 
 of my salvation.' Newton always preached extemporaneous." Dibdin's Remi- 
 niscences of a Literary Life, vol. i. p. 162. 
 
150 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ham, and Lord Mayor in 1547 : at his funeral, on a fast-day, a fish dinner 
 was provided for all comers : 
 
 " He was buried with a standard and penon of arms, and a coat of armour of 
 damask (Damascus steel), and four penons of arms; besides a helmet, a target, 
 and a sword, mantles and the crest, a goodly hearse of wax, ten dozen of pensils, 
 and twelve dozen of escutcheons. He had four dozen of great staff torches, and a 
 dozen of great long torches. The church and street were all hung with black, and 
 arms in great store ; and on the morrow three goodly masses were sung." Stow. 
 The old church was destroyed in the Great Fire of 16G6, and rebuilt by 
 "Wren in 1676-79. It contains a beautifully sculptured monument to 
 Dr. T. Wharton, who did so much to stay the Great Plague of 1665; 
 and here rests Alderman Kirkman, Sheriff elect in 1780, when he died, 
 at the age of 39, of a cold taken in aiding to suppress the Riots. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, in Chester-square, Pimlico, is a picturesque church 
 in the Decorated style of the fourteenth century, and has a tower and 
 spire rising from the ground at the west end, 150 feet high. (Cundy, 
 architect, 1844.) The details are very characteristic. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Cornhill, was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, 
 except the great tower, which contained a celebrated set of ten bells: 
 the body was first rebuilt by Wren, and fifty years later the tower 
 itself, which is an imitation of the splendid chapel tower of Magdalen 
 College, Oxford, built in the fifteenth century, and 145 feet high ; but 
 St. Michael's is only 130 : it has a set of twelve bells. The site is pre- 
 sumed to have been occupied by a church since the Saxon dynasty : it 
 had a cloister and pulpit-cross ; and here rested the remains of Fabyan 
 the Chronicler, Alderman of London, and Sheriff in 1493. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Paternoster Royal, Thames-street, is partly named 
 from its neighbourhood to the Tower Royal, wherein our sovereigns, 
 as early as King Stephen, resided. The church was rebuilt by the mu- 
 nificent Whittington, who was himself buried in it, under a marble 
 tomb with banners, but his remains were twice disturbed : once by aa 
 incumbent, in the reign of Henry VI., who fancied that money was 
 buried with him ; and next by the parishioners, in the reign of Mary, 
 to rewrap the body in lead, of which it had been despoiled on the 
 former occasion (Godwin's Churches of London). Whittington's church 
 was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, but rebuilt by Wren, and has 
 a somewhat picturesque steeple. The interior has a beautiful altar- 
 picture, by Hilton, R. A., of Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of Christ : 
 this fine work was presented by the Directors of the British Institu- 
 tion in 1820. There is no memorial to Whittington in the present church. 
 The rights and profits of the old church he bestowed on a College and 
 Almshouses close by, the site of which is now occupied by the Mercers' 
 Company's School. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Queenhithe, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, 
 was rebuilt by Wren in 1677 : it is chiefly remarkable for its spire, 135 
 feet high, with a gilt vane in the form of a ship in full sail, the hull of 
 which will contain a bushel of grain, referring to the former traffic in 
 corn at the Hithe. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Wood-street, Cheapside, stands at the corner of 
 Huggin-lane, named from a resident there about the time of Edward 
 I., and known as " Hugan in the lane." The old church was de- 
 stroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and the present edifice completed 
 in its place by Wren, in 1675: it is of very unecclesiastical design, 
 but the Wood-street front is well-proportioned Italian. The head of 
 James IV. of Scotland, slain at Flodden Field, Sept. 9, 1513, is said by 
 Stosv to have been buried here; the body was conveyed, after the 
 battle, to London, and thence to the monastery of Sheen, in Surrey, 
 
CHURCHES: ST. OLAVE'S, TOOLEY STREET. 151 
 
 where it was seen by Stow, lapped in lead, but thrown into a waste 
 room. " Some workmen, for their foolish pleasure, hewed off his head, 
 which Launcelot Young, master-glazier to his Majesty, brought to his 
 house in Wood-street, where he kept it for a time ; but at length gave 
 it to the sexton, to bury amongst other bones," &c. This statement is 
 contradicted by the Scottish historians ; but "Weever is positive that 
 Sheen was the place of James's burial. 
 
 ST. MILDRED'S, Bread-street, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, 
 and rebuilt by Wren, 1677-83, is remarkable for being roofed by a 
 large and highly-enriched cupola; and has a pulpit and sounding- 
 board and altar-piece exquisitely carved in the style of Gibbons. 
 
 ST. MILDRED'S, Poultry, was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and 
 rebuilt by Wren ; when was united with it the parish of St. Mary's, Cole- 
 church, the church of which stood at the south end of the Old Jewry : 
 its chaplain was " Peter of Colechurch," who in part built old London 
 Bridge. (See p. 54.) St. Mildred's has a tower 75 feet high, surmounted 
 by a gilt ship in full sail. In the former church was buried Thomas 
 Tusser, who wrote the " Points of Husbandrie," and was by turns cho- 
 rister, farmer, and singing-master. 
 
 ST. NICHOLAS COLE ABBEY, Fish-street-hill, destroyed by the Great 
 Fire, and rebuilt by Wren in 1677, has a tasteless steeple, 135 feet high, 
 but some tine interior carvings ; the parish Register Books contain a 
 list of persons, with their ages, whom King James II. at his coronation 
 touched for the cure of the " Evil." 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S, Hart-street, at the corner of Seething-lane, Crutched 
 Friars, escaped the Great Fire of 1666; and has an interesting inte~ 
 rior, with clustered columns and pointed arches and windows, and 
 the ceilings of the aisles powdered with stars. This church is often 
 mentioned in the Diary of Samuel Pepys, Secretary to the Navy (temp. 
 Charles II. and James II.), who lived in a house belonging to the Navy 
 Office, in Seething-lane ; and resided subsequently in Hart-street : he 
 was buried in St. Olave's at nine at night, " in a vault of his own 
 makeing, by his wife and brother," "by y e Communion Table," June 
 4, 1703 ; and there is a monument to his wife in the chancel. There 
 are also several figure tombs and brasses ; and a marble figure of Sir 
 Andrew Riccard (d. 1672), who bequeathed the advowson of the living 
 to the parish. In the churchyard are interred a number of victims to 
 the Great Plague : the first entry in the Register is dated July 24, 1665 : 
 "Mary, daughter of William Ramsay, one of the Drapers' Almsmen ;" 
 and there is a tradition that the pestilence first appeared in the Drapers' 
 Almshouses, Cooper's-row, in this parish. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S, Jewry, a brick church, rebuilt by Wren, in 1673-76, 
 upon the site of the old church, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, 
 is alone remarkable for containing the remains of Alderman Boydell, 
 the eminent engraver and printseller, who expended a large fortune in 
 founding the English School of Historic Painting : he was Lord Mayor 
 in 1790 (d. 1804) ; and on the north wall of the church is a tablet to 
 him, surmounted by his bust. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S, Tooley-street, Southwark, in Bridge Ward Without, 
 was rebuilt in 1737-39, by Flitcroft, a pupil of Kent ; the funds being 
 mostly advanced by a French emigrant, on an annuity for his life ; and 
 he dying soon after, it became a saying that the organ had cost more 
 than the church : it had a richly-decorated interior, and a fine peal of 
 bells. The whole was burnt almost to the walls on August 19, 1843; 
 when also was destroyed Watson's Telegraphic Tower, originally a shot 
 factory. St, Olave's Church has since been handsomely restored. The 
 
152 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 former church was of the fourteenth century, and is shewn in the Suther- 
 land View, 1543, with a low square tower and bell-house. The first 
 church was certainly founded prior to the Norman Conquest, from its 
 dedication to St. Olave, or Olaff, King of Norway, who, with Ethelred, 
 in 1008, destroyed old London Bridge, then occupied by the Danes. 
 (See BRIDGES, p. 54.) The present church is nearly on the site of this 
 exploit ; for the first bridge was somewhat eastward of the old bridge, 
 taken down after the building of the present bridge. St. Olave has been 
 corrupted to St. Oley and Tooley street. 
 
 ST. PAXCRAS-IN-THE-FIELDS, one of the oldest churches in Middle- 
 sex, is situated on the north side of the road leading from King's Cross 
 to Kentish Town. It consisted, before its enlargement in 1848, of a 
 nave and chancel, with a low tower at the west end, built late in the 
 twelfth century. Norden, in his Speculum Britannia, describes it, in 
 1593, as standing " all alone, utterly forsaken, old and wether -beten ;" 
 "yet about this structure have bin manie buildings, now decaied, leaving 
 poore Pan eras without companie or comfort." Norden adds : 
 
 " Although this place be, as it were, forsaken of all, and true men seldom fre- 
 quent the same but upon devyne occasions; yet it is visited by thieves, who 
 assemble there not to pray, but to wait for praye; and manie fall into their 
 handes, clothed, that are glad when they are escaped naked. "Walk not there 
 late." 
 
 The church and churchyard have long been noted as the burial-place of 
 Roman Catholics, " who," Stry pe says, have of late " affected to be buried 
 here ;" and many of the tombs bear the customary cross and R. I. P. 
 (Requiescat in pace). Among other reasons assigned for this prefer- 
 ence was, that the church was the last where bell tolled in England for 
 Mass, and in which any rites of the Roman Catholic religion were cele- 
 brated after the Reformation ; but the choice is believed to be a mere 
 prejudice. The church, reconstructed and enlarged by A. D. Gough, 
 was re-opened July 5, 1848J: the style adopted is Anglo-Norman : the 
 edifice has been lengthened westward; the old tower has been removed, 
 and a new one built on the south side ; and the west end has an en- 
 riched Norman porch, and a wheel-window in the gable above. In the 
 progress of the works were found Roman bricks, a small altar-stone, 
 Early Norman capitals, an Early English piscina, and Tudor brick- 
 work. The chancel windows are filled with stained glass, by Gibbs, 
 as is also the western wheel-window. The several old monuments 
 have been restored, and refixed as nearly as possible in their original 
 positions. On the north wall, opposite the baptistery, is the early 
 Tudor marble Purbeck memorial, supposed to have belonged to the 
 Gray family, of Gray's Inn ; the recesses for brasses removed, and neither 
 date nor arms remaining. On the south-east interior wall is the marble 
 tablet, with palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the celebrated min- 
 iature-painter (d. 1672); over the vestry are three small brasses to 
 the daughter of A. Glover, of TottenhanTCourt (d. 1588) ; on the south 
 side of the nave is a monument with busts to "William Platt (d. 1637), 
 and his wife, removed from the old chapel at Highgate, in 1833. The 
 church is mostly floored with black and white marble tombs, of con- 
 siderable age, and in good preservation. The ancient communion -plate, 
 date 1638, discovered in 1848, is now again in use. In the churchyard 
 are headstones to William Woollett, the engraver (d. 1785), and John 
 Walker, the dictionary compiler (d. 1807) ; and an altar-tomb to Wil- 
 iam Godwin, the novelist (d. 1836), and his two wives. The register 
 records the burials of Abraham Woodhead (d. 1678), and Obadiah 
 Walker (d. 1699), both of whom were said to have written the Whole 
 Duty of Man, and who both became Papists ; Lady Slir;#sby, an actress 
 
CHURCHES: ST. PAUL'S, COVENT GARDEN. 153 
 
 in Dryden and Lee's plays, from 1681 to 1689 ; Jeremy Collier (d. 1726), 
 who battled with Congreve and Vanbrugh, and improved the decency 
 of the stage ; Ned Ward, the "London Spy " (d. 1731) ; Leoni, the archi- 
 tect (d. 1746) ; Lady Henrietta, wife of Beard, the singer (d. 1753) ; Maz- 
 zinghi, leader of the band at Marylebone Gardens ; Arthur O'Learv, 
 the Franciscan Friar (d. 1802) ; Paoli, the Corsican (d. 1807) ; the Che- 
 valier d'Eon (d. 1810); Packer, the comedian (d. 1806), said to have per- 
 formed 4852 times ; and Scheemakers, the sculptor (d. 1808). Pancras 
 was corrupted to "Pancredge" in Queen Elizabeth's reign. 
 
 ST. PANCRAS, near Eus ton-square, New-road, was built by Messrs. 
 Inwood ; the first stone being laid by the Duke of York,, July 1, 1819. 
 The cella, or body of the church, is designed from the Erectheum, de- 
 dicated to Minerva Polias and Pandrosus, at Athens ; and the steeple, 
 168 feet high, is from the Athenian Tower of the Winds, with a cross, 
 in lieu of the Triton and wand, symbols of the wind, in the original. 
 The clock-dials are but 6 feet in diameter, though at the height of 
 100 feet, and therefore are much too small. The western front of the 
 church has a fine portico of six columns, with richly-sculptured voluted 
 capitals ; beneath are three enriched doorways, designed exactly from 
 those of the Erectheum, and exquisite in detail. Towards the east 
 end are lateral porticoes, each supported by colossal statues of fe- 
 males,* on a plinth, in which are entrances to the catacombs beneath 
 the church, to contain 2000 coffins : each of the figures bears an ewer 
 in one hand, and rests the other on an inverted torch, the emblem of 
 death : these figures are of terra-cotta (artificial stone), formed in pieces, 
 and cemented round cast-iron pillars, which in reality support the en- 
 tablatures. The eastern front varies from the ancient Temple in having 
 a semicircular termination, round which, and along the side walls, are 
 terra-cotta imitations of Greek tiles. The interior is designed in con- 
 formity with the general plan of ancient temples. The pulpit and read- 
 ing-desk are made from the trunk of "the Fairlop Oak," in Hainhault 
 Forest, blown down in 1820. The cost of this classic edifice, much too 
 close a resemblance to a Pagan temple to be appropriate for a Christian 
 church, was 76,679Z. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Camden New Town, St. Pancras, was built in 1848-9 
 (Ordish and Johnson, architects): it is majestically situated, and con- 
 sists of a nave and aisles, with transepts and chancel, and a tower and 
 spire at the west end, 156 feet high ; the windows are Decorated, the 
 roofs have crosses and crestings, and the arrangement is very pictur- 
 esque : this large church, for 1200 persons, cost less than 9000/. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Covent Garden, was commenced for the ground landlord, 
 Francis Earl of Bedford, by Inigo Jones, in 1631, but not finished till 
 1638 ; this being the last of that great architect's works. The Earl's 
 commission is stated to have been for a chapel " not much better than 
 a barn ;" when Jones replied, " Well, then, you shall have the hand- 
 somest barn in England." The truth of this anecdote has been ques- 
 tioned ; for the fabric cost 4500Z., a large sum for those days. It was 
 built of brick, with a portico at the east front, consisting of a pedi- 
 ment supported by four Tuscan columns of stone, and the roof was 
 covered with tiles : Hollar's print of it shews a small bell-turret sur- 
 mounted with a cross. Within the pediment was placed a pendulum 
 clock, made by Richard Harris in 1641, and stated by an inscription 
 
 * These figures are ill-executed, as may be seen by reference to the original 
 Caryatides from the Pandrosion, in the Elgin Collection in the British Museum. 
 The St. Pancras figures, and other artificial stone details for the church, were 
 executed by Rossi, from Messrs. Inwood's designs, and cost 5400J. 
 
154 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in the vestry to be the first irade.* The ceiling of the interior was 
 beautifully painted by E. Pierce, senior, a pupil of Van Dyck. Inigo 
 Jones was present at the consecration by Bishop Juxon, Sept. 27, 1638. 
 The church was repaired by Lord Burlington in 1727 : in 1788, the walls 
 were cased with Portland" stone ; and the rustic gateways at the east 
 front, which Jones had imitated in brick and plaster from Palladio, were 
 then rebuilt with stone. In 1795, the church was burnt to the walls by 
 an accidental fire, but was restored by the elder Hardwick. The altar- 
 piece has two figures of angels, sculptured by Banks, R.A. Among 
 the eminent persons interred here are Samuel Butler (d. 1680), author of 
 Hudibras, whose friends could not afford to bury him in Westminster 
 Abbey ; Sir Peter Lely (d. 1680), the painter, to whom there was a 
 monument, with a bust by Gibbons, destroyed with the old church ; 
 Edward Kynaston (d. 1712), the famed actor of female parts, who 
 played Juliet to Betterton's Romeo ; William Wycherley (d. 1715), the 
 witty dramatist, who had " a true nobleman's look;" Susannah Cent- 
 livre (d. 1723), who wrote the Wonder; Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), 
 the sculptor and wood-carver; Dr. John Armstrong (d. 1779), known 
 by his didactic poem, The Art of Preserving Health ; and Charles 
 Macklin, the actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107 : the two last in a vault 
 tinder the communion-table. Strype mentions Marmaduke Conwey, 
 Esq., buried here 1717, at the age of 108 years and some months : he was 
 in the service of the royal family from the reign of King James I. to 
 his dying day, and was much liked by Charles I. for his skill in hawk- 
 ing. In the churchyard lies Sir Robert Strange, the engraver (d. 1792), 
 who published his own prints at " the Golden Head," in Henrietta- 
 street. Holland and Edwin, and many players of minor note, are also 
 buried in the churchyard. The portico and overhanging roof of the 
 church are picturesque in effect; and the whole building is impressive 
 from its vastness, and agreeable from the simple rusticity of the order. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CHURCH FOB SEAMEN OF THE PORT OF LONDON, near 
 the London and St. Katherine's Docks, the Sailor's Home, and the 
 Seamen's Asylum, was founded by Prince Albert, May 11, 1846, and 
 consecrated July 10, 1847 (H. Roberts, architect). The style is Early 
 English, with a western tower and spire 100 feet high. " In the course 
 of a year it is computed that about 7000 seamen come to this church : 
 a field of usefulness that can scarcely be over-rated " (Low's Charities 
 of London, p. 390). St. Paul's has superseded the Episcopal Floating 
 Church, originally the Brazen sloop-of-war : she was moored in the 
 Pool, and fitted with a small organ ; and boats were provided on Sun- 
 days at the Tower- stairs for the free passage of sailors to attend the 
 ship service, which was under the direct superintendence of the Bishop 
 of London. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Shadwell, named from its being in the patronage of the 
 Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, was originally built in 1656 ; but re- 
 built, as we now see it, in 1820-1, by Walters, who died in the latter year : 
 it has a beautiful spire, and is throughout a very meritorious design. 
 The parish, formerly a hamlet of Stepney, was called Chadwelle, it is 
 
 * Cunningham's Handbook, 2d edit. p. 386. If this inscription be correct, 
 it negatives the claim of Huyghens to having first applied the pendulum to the 
 clock, about 1657; although Justus Bergen, mechanician to the Emperor Ro- 
 dolphus, who reigned from 1576 to 1612, is said to have attached one to a clock 
 used by Tycho Brahe. Inigo Jones, the architect of St. Paul's, having been 
 in Italy during the time of Galileo, it is probable that he communicated what he 
 heard of the pendulum to Harris. Huyghens, however, violently contested for 
 the prionfy ; while others claimed it for the younger Galileo, who, they asserted, 
 had, at his father's suggestion, applied the pendulum to a clock in Venice which 
 was finished in 1649. Adam Thomson's Time and Timekeepers, pp. 67, 68. 
 
CHURCHES: ST. PETER'S AD VINCULA. 155 
 
 supposed, from a spring dedicated to St. Chad, within the church- 
 yard. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Wilton-place, Knightsbridge, designed by Cundy, was 
 consecrated by the Bishop of London, May 30, 1843. It has an Early 
 Perpendicular and eight-pinnacled tower, 121 feet high. Within is a 
 magnificent organ in a richly-canopied case, and the choral service is 
 efficiently performed ; the silver-gilt communion plate is very massive ; 
 the altar appointments are truly Anglican ; and the font is cleverly sculp- 
 tured with Scripture scenes. The cost of this church was 11,000, exclu- 
 sive of fittings. The Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, M.A., of Christ Church, 
 Oxford, appointed to the incumbency in 1843, resigned in 1850. 
 
 ST. PETER'S, Cornhill, was rebuilt of brick by Wren, after the 
 Great Fire of 1666 : it has a tower and spire 140 feet high, surmounted 
 by an enormous key, the emblem of St. Peter. Here is a tablet re- 
 cording the death by fire, Jan. 18, 1782, of the seven children of James 
 and Mary Woodmason, of Leadenhall-street. An inscription upon a 
 brass plate in the vestry -room describes the old church as founded 
 A.D. 179, a statement unsupported by facts. Stow records a mur- 
 derer to have fled to St. Peter's for sanctuary in 1230 ; and one of its 
 priests was murdered in 1243. The nave and chancel are separated by 
 a carved wainscot rood-screen, set up by direction of Bishop Beveridge, 
 who was 32 years rector of St. Peter's, and who paid special attention 
 to the appropriateness of church furniture and repairs. 
 
 ST. PETER'S, Eaton-square, Pimlico, an Ionic church, was designed 
 by Henry Hakewill, and consecrated by Bishop Howley, July 20, 1827. 
 The altar-piece is " Christ crowned with thorns," painted by W. 
 Hilton, R.A., and presented to the church by the British Institution. 
 
 ST. PETER'S, Saffron-hill, a district church of St. Andrew's, Hoi- 
 born, designed by Barry, R.A., in the Anglo-Norman style, and conse- 
 crated in 1832 : it has been placed in a proverbially depraved locality, 
 with the most salutary effect. 
 
 ST. PETER'S, Sumner-street, Bankside, designed by Edmunds, and 
 consecrated Nov. 7, 1839, is in the plain Pointed style, and has an em- 
 battled tower 84 feet high. 
 
 ST. PETER'S-LE-POOR, Old Broad-street, was taken down in 1788, 
 rebuilt by Jesse Gibson, and consecrated by Bishop Porteus in 1792. 
 The church is traceable to 1181 : it was "'sometime peradventure a 
 poor parish" (Stow), but scarcely now contains one pauper. 
 
 ST. PETER'S AD VINCULA, the chapel of the Tower, situate north- 
 west of the White Tower, was erected temp. Edward L, though there 
 was a chapel within the walls, dedicated to the same saint, at a much 
 earlier date. The present chapel is built of square'd stones and flints, 
 and has a small bell-tower. The interior consists of a chancel, nave, 
 and north aisle, the two latter separated by flat-pointed arches spring- 
 ing from clustered columns ; but little of the original building remains. 
 This chapel is extremely interesting, as the burial-place of these emi- 
 nent persons, executed within the Tower walls or upon Tower-hill: 
 Queen Anne Boleyn (beheaded 1536) ; Queen Katherine Howard (be- 
 headed 1542) ; Sir Thomas More (beheaded 1535) ; Thomas Cromwell, 
 Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540) ; Margaret Countess of Shrewsbury 
 (beheaded 1541) ; Thomas Lord Seymour, Lord Admiral, beheaded 
 1549, by warrant of his own brother, the Protector Somerset, who in 
 1552 was executed on the same scaffold ; John Dudley, Duke of Nor- 
 thumberland (beheaded 1553). 
 
 " There lyeth before the High Altar, in St. Peter's Church, two Dukes between 
 
156 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of Northumberland 
 between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four beheaded." Stow (Howes's). 
 
 Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Dudley (beheaded 1553-4) ; 
 Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1600) : under the communion- 
 table lies the Duke of Monmouth (beheaded 1685) ; and beneath the 
 gallery, Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino (beheaded 1746) ; and Simon 
 Lord Lovat (beheaded 1747). The Register records the burial in this 
 chapel of Sir Thomas Overbnry, poisoned in the Tower, 1613 : and here 
 lies Sir John Eliot, who died a prisoner in the Tower, his son being 
 refused by King Charles J. permission to remove the body to Cornwall 
 for interment. Also are buried in St. Peter's, John Roettier, "his 
 Majesty's engraver at the Tower " (d. 1703); and Colonel Gurwood, 
 who edited the Wellington Despatches (d. 1846). In the north aisle is 
 the altar-tomb, with effigies, of Sir Richard Cholmondeley (Lieutenant 
 of the Tower, temp. Henry VII.) and his wife, Lady Elizabeth. In 
 the chancel is a rich marble monument to Sir Richard Blount and his 
 son Sir Michael, Lieutenants of the Tower, sixteenth century ; with 
 figures of the knight and his sons in armour, and of his wife and 
 daughters. Here also is the tomb of Sir Allan Apsley, Lieutenant of 
 the Tower (d. 1630) ; and in the nave-floor is the inscribed gravestone 
 of Talbot Edwards, (d. 1674,) Keeper of the Regalia in the Tower when 
 Blood stole the crown. (See TOWER OF LONDON.) 
 
 ST PETEB'S, Walworth-road, in the parish of St. Mary, Newington, 
 was built 1823-5, and cost about 19,000?. It is one of Soane's classic 
 churches ; the west front decorated with Ionic columns, and the tower 
 has two stories, the lower Corinthian and the upper Composite. The 
 interior is in elegant and original taste. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S, Southwark, a short distance from the south foot of 
 London-bridge, ranks in magnitude and architectural character as the 
 third church in the metropolis, and is one of the few churches in the 
 kingdom possessing a Lady Chapel. It was originally the church of the 
 Augustine Priory of St. Mary Overie, and was founded by the Norman 
 knights, William Pont de 1'Arche and William Dauncy. The nave of 
 the church is attributed to Gifford, Bishop of Winchester in 1106 
 (7th Henry I.) ; and an arch, an apsis, and other remains of this date, 
 have been uncovered by the removal of the masonry of the church, al- 
 tered in the reigns of Richard II. and Henry IV. After the Dissolution 
 of the Monasteries, this church was purchased of Henry VIII. by the 
 people of Southwark ; and in 1540, it was made parochial as St. Sa- 
 viour's, and united with the two parishes of St. Mary Magdalen and St. 
 Margaret-at-Hill. The church is cathedral or cruciform in plan, with 
 a nave, transepts, choir, and Lady Chapel, and a lofty embattled tower 
 at the central intersection ; besides Mary Magdalen's and the Bishop's 
 Chapels, now removed. An etching, by Hollar, executed for Dugdale's 
 Monasticon, shews the church about 1660. The choir and Lady Chapel 
 were commenced in the Lancet style, according to an ancient chroni- 
 cle : " John anno X (1208). Seynte Marie Overie was that yere be- 
 gonne." * In 1618, the fine perspective of nave and choir was destroyed 
 
 * "A Chronicle of London from 1089 to 1483," first printed in 1827. A 
 romantic tradition is associated with this church. Stow, in the account which 
 he received from Linsted, the last Prior, describes it as " Saint Mary ouer the 
 Rie, or Orery, that is, over the water. This church, or some other in place 
 thereof, was (of old time, long before the Conquest,) an House of Sisters, founded 
 by a mayden named Mary, unto the which House and Sisters she left (as was left 
 to her by her parents) the ouersight and profits of a Crosse Ferrie, or trauerse 
 ferrie ouer the Thames, there kept before any bridge was builded." (See LON- 
 DON BRIDGE, p. 54.) This story has, however, been much discredited. The 
 shrouded figure now in the north aisle has been gossipingly assigned to Audery, 
 
CHURCHES: ST. SAVIOUR'S, SOUTHWARK. 157 
 
 by an organ-screen, set up in place of the ancient rood-loft. In 1624, 
 the Lady Chapel, which had been let out as a bakehouse for 60 years, 
 was restored ; and in 1689, the tower was repaired, and the pinnacles 
 were rebuilt : height 150 feet. From the roof Hollar drew his cele- 
 brated View of London, la,tely rendered familiar by Martin's pen-and- 
 ink lithograph. For a long interval, the only repairs of the church 
 tended to its disfigurement, by barbarous brick casing and the destruc- 
 tion of beautiful windows ; until, in 1818, the repair of the entire edifice 
 was commenced with the tower. The pinnacles and embattled para- 
 pets were rebuilt, windows inserted, and the tower, split by the violent 
 vibration of the bells, was secured with cast-iron ties concealed within 
 the masonry. This restoration was superintended by George Gwilt, 
 F.S.A., who also, in 1822-24, took down the east end of the church to 
 the clerestory, and gave the present face to the structure his own de- 
 sign consisting of an enriched gable, with an elaborately foliated cross 
 on its apex ; pinnacled staircase turrets, with niches at the angles ; and 
 a new triple lancet window, in the more florid style of the 13th century, 
 instead of the original window of five lights (temp. Henry VII.) ; and a 
 Catherine-wheel window, of extraordinary richness and beauty. Over 
 the vaulting a cast-iron roof was erected, and covered with copper; 
 and the piers of the flying buttresses on each side were cased with 
 stone, the aisle windows built anew, &c. ; in all which Mr. Gwilt has 
 rigidly adhered to the former work, " not only in the general design, 
 but in the minutest details, wherever prototypes could be found." In 
 1829-30, the transepts were restored from the designs of R. Wallace, 
 architect : groined roofs were added ; and in the south was introduced 
 a circular window, designed from that in the ruins of Winchester Pa- 
 lace, Bankside, discovered through a fire in 1814. In the north tran- 
 sept has been inserted a window of circular tracery, in the style of 
 Westminster Abbey ; but the side windows, originally of beautiful 
 length, have been injudiciously shortened. Within, the transepts pre- 
 sent a beautiful vista, second only to the choir. The four magnificent 
 arches which support the tower remain unaltered. The timber roof 
 of the nave, a fine specimen of carpentry, said to have been put up by 
 Bishop Fox (temp. Edward IV.), was next removed " by Order of Ves- 
 try," and the organ was moved up to form a temporary end to the 
 choir. Thus dismantled, in splendid ruin, stood the roofless walls, and 
 the massive Tudor doorway at the west end, until, in 1838-9, the nave 
 was rebuilt for Divine Service in poor, incongruous style ; and being sepa- 
 rated from the choir, St. Saviour's now presents the anomalous appear- 
 ance of two churches in one ; but had the nave been restored according 
 to the ancient example, the groined roof of the church would exhibit an 
 uninterrupted perspective of 208 feet. The most picturesque views are 
 from the clerestory vaultings of the choir. The commonplace oak and 
 plaster of the last century have been removed from the eastern end, 
 thus unveiling the stone altar-screen, a beautiful composition of niches, 
 &c. ; and which, from its resembling that in Winchester Cathedral, and 
 bearing Bishop Fox's device of the Pelican feeding her young, is inferred 
 to be his workmanship : it was restored in 1833, at the cost of 700?. 
 
 the Ferryman, father of the foundress of St. Mary Overie's. There is a curious, 
 although probably fabulous tract of his life, entitled, "The True History of the 
 Life and sudden Death of old John Overs, the rich Ferry-Man of London, shewing 
 how he lost his life by his own covetousness. And of his daughter Mary, who 
 caused the church of St. Mary Overs in Southwark to be built ; and of the build- 
 ing of London Bridge." There are two editions : the first, 1637, with woodcuts ; 
 the second, 1744, " Printed for T. Harris at the Looking-Glass on London Bridge." 
 It is among Sir W. Musgrave's Biographical Tracts in the British Museum. A 
 synopsis of the story is given in the Chronicles of London Bridge, pp. 40-44. 
 
158 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " In the fifteenth century, sculpture and painting lent their aid to complete 
 and embellish this sumptuous display of architecture. Upon the altar and under 
 the central canopy, in the first range, stood the crucifix ; the large niche above 
 was appropriated to the t-tatue of the Blessed Virgin, the patroness of the church ; 
 and the corresponding niche in the upper range we may as confidently assign to 
 the representation of the sacred Trinity ; the minor niches might be occupied by 
 the sainted bishops of the see. Above the whole, the design was carried on in the 
 painted glass of the east window, inclosed as it were in a richly sculptured frame: 
 in this perfect state, what a magnificent scene was displayed in the choir!" E. J. 
 Carlos, Gentleman's Magazine, Feb. 1834. 
 
 The Lady Chapel, which Bishop Gardiner used as a consistorial 
 court in the reign of Queen Mary, was restored by subscription in 
 1832 : the groined roof is very fine, and here is the marble tomb of 
 Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester, with his full-length effigies, 
 formerly in the Bishop's Chapel, where also his leaden coffin was found. 
 In 1555, a commission sat in St. Mary Overie's for the trial of heretics, 
 Bishop Hooper and John Rogers being the first victims to the stake ; 
 but within four years, the Popish vestments were sold for the repairs 
 of the church, and next the valuable Latin records of the Priory were 
 burnt as superstitious remains of Popery. The church is very rich in 
 painted sculpture tombs. In the south transept is the Perpendicular 
 monument of the poet Gower, removed from the north aisle of the nave 
 in 1832, when it was restored and coloured at the expense of Lord Fran- 
 cis Leveson Gower, now Duke of Sutherland, a presumed collateral 
 descendant from the poet. Gower was married in this church, in 1397, 
 to Alice Groundolf, by the celebrated "William of Wykeham, then Bishop 
 of Winchester, and here Gower and his wife are buried ; the poet 
 beneath the above monument, triple canopied, and richly dight with 
 gold and colour inscription, with the recumbent effigies of Gov.-er 
 in prayer : his hair auburn, and long to the shoulders, and a small 
 forked beard ; on his head a purple and gold rose fillet, with the 
 words, " Merci Ihu ;" a habit of purple, damasked, down to his feet ; a 
 collar of esses, gold, about his neck ; his head resting upon three gilded 
 volumes, the " Speculum Meditantis," " Vox Clamantis," and " Con- 
 fessio Amantis ;" on the wall at his feet are his arms, and a hat or 
 helmet, with a red hood, ermined, and surmounted by his crest a dog. 
 Opposite Gower's tomb is the coloured bust of John Bingham, saddler 
 to Queen Elizabeth and James I. In the north transept is a richly- 
 painted, carved, and gilt monument, with angels, rocks, suns, and ser- 
 pents, to William Austin, Esq. (d. 1833), who wrote a poem of " Medi- 
 tations." Next lies Dr. Lockyer, the empiric (temp. Charles II.), his 
 reclining effigies in thick-curled wig and furred gown : 
 " His virtues and his pills are so well known, 
 
 That envy can't confine them under stone." Epitaph. 
 
 In the north aisle is the monument to John Trehearne, gentleman- 
 porter to James I., with the costumed busts of himself and wife. Op- 
 posite is the tomb of Alderman Humble (temp. James 1.), with kneeling 
 ngures of himself and his two wives, and representations of their 
 children ; and an inscription, slightly varied from a poem attributed 
 to Francis Quarles, commencing, 
 
 " Like to the damask rose you see." 
 
 Here, too, is an oaken effigies, supposed of one of the Norman 
 knights, founders of the church ; and near it is the figure of an ema- 
 ciated man, wrapped in a shroud, and finely sculptured. The Burial 
 Register records, under 1607, " Edmond Shakspeare, player, in the 
 church," the great dramatist's brother, and who, doubtless, was fol- 
 lowed to the grave by him as chief mourner ; under 1 025 is " Mr. 
 John Fletcher, a man, in the church" (Beaumont and Fletcher); 
 and Philip Massinger, "a stranger," in the churchyard, lG-'J8-9. The 
 
CHURCHES: ST. STEPHEN'S THE MARTYR. 159 
 
 tower has a fine peal of twelve bells, and in the belfry are recorded 
 exploits performed upon them by the College and Cumberland youths 
 (see ST. MARY-LE-BOW CHURCH, p. 142) ; though these bells were not 
 rung at the opening of London-bridge, in 1831, from the alleged inse- 
 curity to the masonry : the entire weight of the twelve bells is 10 tons, 
 15 cwt. 1 qr. 9 Ibs. The clock, put up in 1795, has a dial 31 feet in cir- 
 cumference ; length of minute-hand, 5 feet ; circumference of bell, 11 
 feet 6 inches. The tower, east end, and Lady Chapel, originally con- 
 cealed by the west side of the old High Street, were opened to view 
 in forming the approaches to New London-bridge, thus presenting, 
 perhaps, the finest architectural group in the Metropolis : its restora- 
 tion has cost upwards of 50,000?. 
 
 ST. SEPULCHRE'S, anciently "in the Bailey," at the east end of 
 Skinner-street, and adjacent to Newgate, was damaged in the Great 
 Fire of 166G, which just reached Pye Corner, northward of the church. 
 It was rebuilt about the middle of the fifteenth century. The south- 
 west entrance-porch, resembling a transept, has a groined roof, with 
 bold ribs and beautifully-sculptured bosses ; adjoining is an ancient 
 chapel, erected by the Popham family. The body of the church was re- 
 fitted by Wren after the Fire. The organ, one of the largest and finest 
 in London, was built in 1677, and has been recently enlarged ; the pedal 
 organ, with ten stops, or fourteen ranks of pipes throughout, is un- 
 equalled in England. The pulpit has a sounding-board, like a parabolic 
 reflector, with ribs of mahogany, the grain radiating from the centre. 
 Among the monuments is that of Capt. John Smith, Governor of Vir- 
 ginia, and a romantic traveller (d. 1G31) : his eccentric epitaph, recorded 
 by Strype, has disappeared. The benefactions to the parish include that 
 of Mr. Richard Dowe, AV!IO left a hand-bell, to be rung, with certain 
 forms, to the condemned criminals in Newgate, and on their way to 
 Tyburn for execution, (see ST. SEPULCHRE'S BELL, p. 38,) when it was 
 also customary to present a nosegay to each. St. Sepulchre's tower, 
 " one of the most ancient in the outline in the circuit of London," 
 (Malcolm,} has four pinnacles with vanes, rebuilt 1630-33, and is 140 
 feet high : it has a fine peal of ten bells ; the clock regulates the hang- 
 ing of criminals at Newgate. " Unreasonable people," says Howell, 
 "are as hard to reconcile as the vanes of St. Sepulchre's tower, which 
 never looked all four upon one point of the heavens." On April 10, 
 1600, one \Villiam Dorrington threw himself from the roof of this tower, 
 leaving there a written prayer for forgiveness. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Coleman-street, was destroyed by the Great Fire 
 of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren, as we now see it, with a tower and bell- 
 turret 65 feet high. Among the monuments is a marble bas-relief, 
 by E. W. AVyon, erected in 1847, to the Rev. Josiah Pratt, Vicar of 
 the parish, whose missionary labours are personified by the Angel of 
 the Gospel addressing an African, Hindoo, and New Zealander. The 
 entrance-gateway from Coleman-street has a very eurious sculpture, 
 embodying the Last Judgment. In the old church was buried Master 
 Antony Munday, (d. 1633,) who wrote a continuation of Stow's Sur- 
 vey, and for more than forty years arranged the City pageants and 
 shows. Of this parish John Hayward was under-sexton during the 
 Great Plague, when he carried the dead to their graves, and fetched the 
 bodies with the Dead Cart and Bell, yet " never had the distemper at 
 all, but lived about twenty years after it." Defoe's Memoirs. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S THE MARTYR, Avenue Road, Portland Town, is a large 
 Decorated church, by Daukes, with a tower and spire 136 feet high ; 
 towards building which two individuals gave 1000Z. each ; the freehold 
 )f the site and 5001. being also given by the Duke of Portland. 
 
160 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S THE MARTYR, Rochester-row, Westminster, a stately 
 church, built and endowed at the sole cost of Miss Burdett Coutts, as 
 a memorial to her father, Sir Francis Burdett, Bart., M.P. for West- 
 minster thirty years. The site was presented by the Dean and Chapter 
 of Westminster, and is nearly opposite the almshouses founded by 
 Emery Hill in 1674. The first stone of the church was laid by Miss 
 Coutts, July 20, 1847 ; it was consecrated June 20, 1850. The style is 
 the Decorated, of the reigns of the first three Edwards ; and the archi- 
 tect, Ferrey. The church consists of a nave with aisles, and a chancel ; 
 and on the north side a massive tower and spire, 200 feet high, with 
 a peal of eight bells by Mears ; all the windows are richly traceried. 
 The chancel ceiling is coloured blue, powdered with gold stars; the 
 walls are decorated with texts ; and the reredos is of the Canterbury 
 diaper, picked out in gold and colour : the altar-cloth was presented by 
 the Duke of Wellington, and the chancel carpet was wrought in Berlin 
 work by forty ladies of rank, the border by the girls of St. Stephen's 
 Schools: the design consists of shields and heraldic devices, and panels 
 of the fleur-de-lis and Tudor rose, within a Tudor-rose border. The 
 organ, by Hill, has a screen of diapered pipes, and cost 800 guineas. 
 The nave and aisle roofs are of oak ; and the arcade rests upon clustered 
 shafts, with sculptured capitals. The pulpit is of stone, and enriched 
 with tracery ; and the font is sculptured with Scripture subjects. 
 Some of the windows are filled with stained glass, by Wailes, and the 
 others with Powell's stamped quarries. The stalls and seats are of oak, 
 and for about 900 persons : the church is lit by gas, and has in the 
 chancel a handsome corona of gas.-burners and candlesticks. Adjoining 
 are Schools, of very picturesque design, also designed by Ferrey. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Walbrook, in the rear of the Mansion House, is the 
 third church of that name and locality : the first, according to Dug- 
 dale, stood on the west side of the " Brook ;" the second, built in 1428, 
 on the east side, was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; and the pre- 
 sent church was built upon the same site, 1672-79, from the designs of 
 Wren, at a salary of 100Z. a-year : and the parish accounts shew that a 
 hogshead of claret was presented to the architect, and twenty guineas 
 to his lady. The interior is one of Wren's finest works, with its ex- 
 quisitely-proportioned Corinthian columns, and great central dome of 
 timber and lead, resting upon a circle of light arches springing from 
 column to column ; its enriched Composite cornice, the shields of the 
 spandrels, and the palm-branches and rosettes of the dome-coffers, are 
 very beautiful ; and as you enter from the dark vestibule, a halo of 
 dazzling light flashes upon the eye through the central aperture of the 
 cupola. The elliptical openings for light in the side walls are, how- 
 ever, very objectionable. The fittings are of oak ; and the altar-screen, 
 organ-case, and gallery have some good carvings, among which are 
 prominent the arms of the Grocers' Company, the patrons of the living, \ 
 and who gave the handsome wainscoting. The enriched pulpit, its I 
 festoons of fruit and flowers, and canopied sounding-board, with angels 
 bearing wreaths, are much admired. The church was cleansed and re- 
 paired in 1850, when West's splendid painting of the Martyrdom of St. 
 Stephen, pres-nted in 1779 by the then Rector, Dr. Wilson, was re- 
 moved from over the altar and placed on the north wall of the 
 church ; and the window which the picture had blocked up was then 
 re-oppned. The oldest monument in the church is that of John Lil- 
 burue (d. 1678) : Sir John Vanbrugh, the wit and architect, is buried 
 here, i n the family vault. During the repairs in 1850, it is stated that 
 4000 coffins -were found beneath the church, and were covered with 
 brickwork and concrete to prevent the escape of noxious effluvia. The 
 exterior of the church is plain ; the tower and spire, 128 feet high, is at 
 
CHURCHES: TEMPLE CHURCH. 161 
 
 ;he termination of Charlotte-row. The present Rector is the Rev. 
 George Croly, D.D., the eloquent poet and imaginative prose writer. 
 
 This church, unquestionably elegant, has been overpraised. The rich dome is 
 considered by John Carter to be Wren's attempt to " set up a dome, a compara- 
 tive imitation (though on a diminutive scale) of the Pantheon at Rome, and 
 which, no doubt, was a kind of probationary trial previous to his gigantic opera- 
 tion of fixing one on his octangular superstructure in the centre of his new St. 
 Paul's." Mr. J. Gwilt says of St. Stephen's : " Compared with any other church 
 of nearly the same magnitude, Italy cannot exhibit its equal; elsewhere its rival 
 is not to be found. Of those worthy notice, the Zitelle at Venice (by Palladio), is 
 the nearest approximation in regard to size, but it ranks far below our church in 
 point of composition, and still lower in point of effect." Again: "Had its mate- 
 rials and volume been as durable and extensive as those of St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 Sir Christopher Wren had consummated (in St. Stephen's) a much more efficient 
 monument to his well-earned fame than that fabric affords." 
 St. Stephen's serves also for the parish of St. Bennet Sherehog. Upon 
 the north side of Pancras-lane is a small enclosed piece of ground, and 
 upon a stone on an adjoining house is inscribed, " Before the dreadful 
 fire, anno 1666, here stood the parish church St. Bennet Sherehog." 
 
 Pendleton, the celebrated Vicar of Bray, known by his multiversations, sub- 
 sequently became rector of St. Stephen's, Walbrook. It is related that in the 
 reign of Edward VI., Lawrence Sanders, the martyr, an honest but mild and 
 timorous man, stated to Pendleton his fears that he had not strength of mind to 
 sndure the persecution of the times; and was answered by Pendleton that " he 
 would see every drop of his fat and the last morsel of his flesh consumed to ashes 
 ere he would swerve from the faith then established." He, however, changed 
 with the times, saved his fat and his flesh, and became rector of St. Stephen's, 
 whilst the mild and diffident Sanders was burnt in Smithfield. 
 
 ST. SWITHIN'S, LONDON STONE, Cannon-street, was destroyed by 
 the Great Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren, in 1680, as we now see it. 
 It has a tower and spire 150 feet high; but is chiefly remarkable for 
 having against its outer south wall, within a modern stone case, all that 
 remains of the ancient " London Stone," a Roman miliarium. 
 
 TEMPLE CHURCH, (St. Mary's,} in the rear of the south side of 
 Fleet-street, was the church of the Knights Templar after their re- 
 moval from their chief house, on the site of old Southampton House, 
 without Holborn-bars.* It consists, first, of " the Round," built in 
 1185, and dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem. (See in- 
 scription from the Saxon, inside, over western doorway.) This is one of 
 the four circular churches built in England after the Templars' return 
 from the first and second Crusades ; the other three existing at Cam- 
 bridge, Northampton, and Maplestead in Essex. The architecture is 
 midway between Romanesque and Early English Gothic : the western 
 entrance semicircular arches and capitals are richly sculptured and 
 deeply recessed ; within, Purbeck marble columns, with boldly-sculp- 
 tured capitals, support a gallery or triforium of interlaced Norman 
 arches; and the clerestory has six* Romanesque windows, one filled with 
 stained glass, bright ruby ground, with a representation of Christ, and 
 emblems of the Evangelists ; and the ceiling, of Saracenic character, 
 is coloured. On the gallery well-staircase is a "penitential cell." The 
 arcade in the aisle beneath has sculptured heads of astonishing variety, 
 copies executed by Sir R. Smirke in 1827 ; and here are pointed arches 
 with Norman billets. Upon the pavement are figures of Crusaders, 
 
 * In the rear of the house No. 322 High Holborn, is a room or hall, for some 
 unexplained reason, called "the chapel:" it has a finely panelled oak ceiling, 
 about A. D. 1500 ; a large window opening, and a pointed doorway, now filled up. 
 A few yards westward may be traced the position of the Round Church of the 
 Templars, which they possessed previous to the erection ofihe present Temple 
 Church in Fleet-street. Stow relates that adjoining the old Temple Church was 
 the inn of the Bishop of Lincoln; and afterwards a house belonging to the Earl 
 of Southampton, to which the room in question appears to pertain. 
 
162 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " in cross-legged effigy devoutly stretched," but originally placed upon 
 altar-tombs and pedestals. 
 
 These effigies of feudal warriors are sculptured out of freestone. The attitudes 
 of all are different, but they are all recumbent with the legs crossed. They are 
 incomplete mail with surcoats ; one only is bare-headed, and has the cowl of a 
 monk. The shields are of the heater or Norman shape, but the size is not the 
 same in all ; one of them is very long, and reaches from the shoulder to the 
 middle of the leg. Their heads, with one exception, repose on cushions, and 
 have hoods of mail. Three of them have flattish helmets over the armour, and 
 one has a sort of casque. They have been well restored by Mr. Richardson. The 
 best authorities assign five of them as follow : to Geoffry de Magna\ ille, Earl of 
 Essex, A.D. 1144 (right arm on his breast and large sword at his right) he is 
 not mentioned by Weever ; William Mareschall, Earl of Pembroke, A.D. 1219, 
 (sculptured in Sussex marble, with his sword through a lion's head); Robert 
 Lord de Ros, A.D. 1245 (head uncovered, with long flowing hair), whose effigy is 
 said to have been brought from Helmsley Church, Yorkshire; William Mares- 
 chall, junior, Earl of Pembroke, 1231 (with lien rampant on shield, and sheathing 
 his sword), Gilbert Mareschall, Earl of Pembroke, 1241 (drawing his sword, 
 winged dragon at feet). Cole's Glance at the Temple Church. 
 
 In 1841 were discovered the ancient lead coffins containing the bodies of 
 these knights, who did not appear to have been buried in their armour ; and none 
 of the coffin ornaments were of earlier date than the beginning of the 13th century. 
 In the Temple Round, lawyers received clients, as merchants ou 'Change : 
 " Retain all sorts of witnesses, 
 That ply i' the Temple under trees; 
 Or walk the Round with Knights o' the Posts, 
 
 About the cross-legg'd knights, their hosts." Hudibras, pt. iii. c. 3. 
 Dugdale says : " Item, they (the lawyers) have no place to walk in 
 and confer their learnings but the church ; which place all the term- 
 times hath in it no more quietness than the Pervise of Paules, by 
 occasion of the confluence and concourse of such as are suitors in the 
 law." The pavement is laid with Minton's encaustic tiles, the patterns 
 mostly from the floor of the Chapter House of Westminster Abbey. 
 "The Round" is the nave or vestibule to the oblong portion of the 
 church, the choir, in pure Lancet style, and almost rebuilt in the resto- 
 rations and alterations made 1839-42 by Savage and Sydney Smirke. It 
 is divided into three aisles by clustered marble columns, the groined 
 roof being richly coloured in arabesque, and ornamented with holy 
 emblems. Triple lancet -headed windows let in floods of light. The 
 organ, by Bernard Schmydt, is remarkable as having quarter-tones. 
 
 Towards the end of the reign of Charles II., the Societies of the Temple deter- 
 mined on the erection of an organ ; when the two great builders of the time, 
 Schmydt and Harris, were competitors, and each was supported by his patrons 
 and partisans. Each then erected an organ in the church, the Benchers pro- 
 mising to keep the best. Blow and Purcell performed on appointed days on 
 Schmydt's organ, which, it -was thought, must be chosen. Harris's organ was 
 then played by Baptiste Draghi, and won many admirers ; and the competition 
 was kept up for nearly a twelvemonth : when the decision being referred to Judge 
 Jefleries, he decided in favour of Schmydt's organ. 
 
 In the little vestry beneath the organ -gallery is a marble tablet to 
 Oliver Goldsmith, buried in the ground east of the choir, April 9, 
 1774. The choir-stalls and benches are beautifully carved in oak from 
 ancient examples : the altar is new, in the style of Edward I., and con- 
 tains five canopied panels, gilt and illuminated; here are an ambry, 
 piscina, and sacrarium or tabernacle for the Eucharist ; and behind 
 the altar are three ancient niches for sacred utensils. On the south is 
 the monumental effigies of a bishop in pontificals, supposed to be that 
 of Silverston de Eversdon, Bishop of Carlisle, d. 1255, and buried here. 
 To the left is a white marble tomb over the remains of the learned 
 Selden, d. 1654, in Whitefriars : his funeral sermon was preached by 
 Archbishop Usher. In the triforium are the tombs of Plowden, the 
 jurist ; Howell, writer of the Familiar Letters ; and Gibbon, the his- 
 
CHURCHES: TRINITY, MINORIES. 163 
 
 torian : the views of the church from this gallery are very picturesque. 
 Here are also several memorials of eminent lawyers ; and among them, 
 a marble bust, by Rossi, of Lord Chancellor Thurlow (d. 1806). On 
 the south wall is a tablet to Anne Littleton (d. 1623), daughter-in- 
 law to Sir Edward Littleton, with a quaint epitaph, ending, 
 " Keep well this pawn, thou marble chest; 
 
 Till it be called for, let it rest: 
 
 For while this jewel here is set, 
 
 The grave is but a cabinet." 
 
 It is mentioned in Dugdale's Monasticon that both King Henry II. 
 and his Queen Eleanor directed that their bodies should be interred 
 within the walls of the Temple Chapel, and that the above monarch 
 by his will left 500 marks for that purpose. The walls are inscribed 
 with Scripture texts in Latin ; and between the top of the stalls and 
 the string-course beneath the windows, is the Hymn of St. Ambrose. 
 The windows, by Willement, are among the finest specimens of modern 
 stained glass: the altar subjects are from the life of Christ, the in- 
 terspaces being deep -blue and ruby mosaic, with glittering borders. 
 Knights Templar fill the aisle windows ; but that opposite the organ 
 has figures of angels playing musical instruments. 
 
 A brief history of the Templars in England, and of this church, may be read 
 in the rude effigies of the successive kings during whose reigns they flou- 
 rished, now painted on the west end of the chancel. At the south corner sits 
 Henry I. (A.D. 1128), holding the first banner of the Crusaders, half black, half 
 white, entitled "Beauseant;" white typifying fairness towards friends; black, 
 terror to foes. This banner was changed during the reign of Stephen (A.D. 1116) 
 for the red cross : 
 
 " And on his brest a bloodie crosse he bore, 
 
 The deare remembrance of his dying Lord." 
 
 Henry II. and the Round Church are represented by the third figure. Richard 
 I., with the sword which he wielded as Crusader, and John, his brother, are the 
 next kings; and in the north aisle is portrayed Henry III., holding the two 
 churches ; the chancel, or square part, having been added in his reign, and con- 
 secrated on Ascension-day, 1240. Cole's Glance at the Temple Church. 
 
 Externally, the Round has been refaced with stone, and the groined 
 western portico restored ; the east end has three high gables, with 
 crosses ; and the bell is hung in a new stone turret on the north side. 
 North-east of the choir is the house of the Master of the Temple, as 
 the preacher at the church is called : it is fronted by a garden, beneath 
 which is the Benchers' Vault. One of the most learned Masters was 
 Hooker, author of the Ecclesiastical Polity ; another eminent Master 
 was Sherlock, afterwards Bishop of London. 
 
 ST. THOMAS, CHARTERHOUSE, Goswell-Street-road, a brick church 
 in the Anglo-Norman style, was designed by E. Blore, and consecrated 
 1842. A portion is set apart for the Brethren of the Charter-House. 
 
 ST. THOMAS'S, Southwark, in St. Thomas's-street, was originally 
 the church of the Monastery or Hospital of St. Thomas, but was made 
 parochial after the Dissolution : in 1702 it was rebuilt of brick, with 
 a square tower, closely resembling that of the former church. 
 
 TRINITY, Gray's-Inn-road, district church of St. Andrew's, Hoi- 
 born, designed by Pennithorne, was built in 1837-8 : it has a pedimented 
 centre, and belfry with cupola roof and cross ; and catacombs beneath 
 for 1000 bodies. Adjoining is the old burial-ground of St. Andrew's, 
 its crowded graves interspersed with trees. 
 
 TRINITY, Minories, was originally the church of the Priory of the 
 Holy Trinity, founded by Matilda, Queen of Henry I., in 1108. This 
 church escaped the Great Fire of 1666; but becoming insecure, it was 
 taken down, and rebuilt in 1706. It is stated, in a note in Strype, that 
 Trinity pretended to privileges, as " marrying without a license." In 
 
164 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the chancel is the tomb of the loyal William Legge, who bore the touch- 
 ing message of Charles I. from the scaffold to his son, the Prince of 
 Wales, enjoining him to "remember the faithfullest servant ever prince 
 had." Here, too, is buried Legge's son, the first Earl of Dartmouth. 
 
 ST. VEDAST'S, Foster-lane, destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and 
 rebuilt by Wren, has an original and graceful spire, in three stories. 
 The interior has a ceiling enriched with wreaths of flowers and fruits 
 and foliage ; and a carved oak altar-piece, with winged figures, palm- 
 branches, a pelican, &c. In the vestry-room is a print of " West 
 Cheap " in 1585, with the church of St. Michael on the north side of 
 Paternoster-row, the burial-place of the antiquary, Leland (d. 1552). 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW BY THE EXCHANGE (see page 120), which was 
 taken down in 1840, has been rebuilt in Moor-lane, Fore-street, under 
 the direction of C. R. Cockerell, R. A. The interior details are Tuscan ; 
 the altar-piece, pulpit, &c. are richly-carved oak; and the communion 
 end is lighted by a stained Catherine-wheel window. From the western 
 door, the whole interior to the east is discovered through a trium- 
 phal arch, formed by a novel and ingenious construction of the choir- 
 gallery in front of the organ. 
 
 BRITISH AND FOREIGN SAILORS' CHURCH (the) was opened April 
 30, 1845, in the Danish Church, Wellclose-square, Ratcliffe Highway. 
 An inscription over the entrance states it to have been built in 1696, 
 by Caius Gabriel Gibber, the sculptor, at the cost of Christian V., King 
 of Denmark, for such merchants and seamen, his subjects, who visited 
 the port of London. The architect and his son, Colley Gibber, are 
 buried in the vaults ; and in the church is a tablet to Jane Colley. The 
 pulpit has four sand-glasses in a brass frame, by which preachers for- 
 merly regulated the length of their sermons. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S, near the centre of Old-Street-road, is one of the Fifty 
 Queen Anne Churches, and was consecrated on St. Luke's day, Oct. 16, 
 1733. It is built of stone, and has an obelisk spire, "a master-stroke 
 of absurdity." The parish was taken out of St. Giles's, Cripplegate. 
 
 EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 
 
 ASYLUM (FEMALE ORPHAN) CHAPEL, Westminster-road, Lambeth, 
 was built for the Charity, established 1758, at the suggestion of Sir John 
 Fielding, the police-magistrate. The chapel service is rendered at- 
 tractive by tha singing of the orphan children, and by popular preachers, 
 thus contributing to the support of the Institution 'by a collection. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S, Kingsland, was an ancient and picturesque 
 wayside chapel, near the toll-gate, and taken down in 1846. Its walls 
 were of flint and rubble, the window-frames of stone, in the Perpendicu- 
 lar style, and in the roof was a wooden bell-turret. It was originally 
 the chapel of a hospital or house of lepers, called " Le Lokas," and was 
 long an appendage to St. Bartholomew's, to which it was a kind of outer 
 ward till 1761, when all the patients were removed from Kingsland, and 
 the hospital site let for building. Upon the petition of the neighbour- 
 ing inhabitants, the chapel was repaired, and service performed there, 
 the chaplain being appointed by the governors of St. Bartholomew's. 
 It was so small as scarcely to contain 50 persons. It is engraved in 
 Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part i. 1850. 
 
 BEXTINCK CHAPEL, Chapel-street, New-road, was built in 1772, and 
 opened by the Rev. Mr. Hunt, father of the originator of the Examiner 
 newspaper. The Rev. Basil Woodd was minister of this chapel 45 years. 
 
 BROMPTON CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL CHAPEL (Lamb, architect,) 
 
EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 165 
 
 was founded by the Rev. Sir Henry Foulis, Bart., and consecrated June 
 27, 1850. It is exclusively for the officers and patients of the Hospital, 
 md has been built as a memorial of a relative of the founder. The 
 Chapel consists of a nave, north and south transeptal projections, and 
 i chancel ; and is connected with the Hospital by a corridor, externally 
 jrnamented with pinnacled buttresses and gable crosses, and an octa- 
 gonal bell-turret. The windows are traceried, and have stained glass ; 
 ;he roof is open timbered ; the chancel has florid sedilia of stone, and is 
 jeparated from the nave by a low traceried screen. The interior fittings 
 ire of oak, some bearing the arms and crest of the founder, heraldically : 
 ' Arg. three bay-leaves proper ; crest, a crescent arg. surmounted by 
 i cross sa. ;" the motto is " Je ne change qu'en mourant." The crest 
 bas been most frequently used, as applicable to the building " Chris- 
 tianity overcoming Paganism." The floor is partly paved with tiles of 
 irmorial patterns. The seats are specially adapted for the patients. 
 
 CHAPEL ROYAL (the), St. James's Palace, is situated on the western 
 ride, between the Colour Court and Ambassadors' Court. It is oblong 
 in plan, with side galleries; the Royal Gallery being at the west end, 
 opposite the communion-table. 
 
 The superb ceiling, painted by Holbein in 1540, is one of the earliest speci- 
 mens of the new style introduced by him into England. The rib-mouldings are of 
 irooden frame-work, suspended to the roof above ; the panels have plaster grounds, 
 ;he centres displaying the Tudor emblems and devices. The subject is gilt, shaded 
 )oldly with bistre ; the roses glazed with a red colour, and the arms emblazoned in 
 their proper colours; leaves, painted dark-green, ornamented each subject; the 
 general ground of the whole was light-blue. The mouldings of the ribs are painted 
 green, and some are gilt; the under side is a dark -blue, on which is a small open 
 running ornament (cast in lead), gilt. The ceiling has undergone several repairs, 
 in one of which the blue ground was painted white. In 1836, when the chapel 
 nras enlarged under the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, the blue ground was disco- 
 vered, as were likewise some of the mottoes in the small panels: thus, " STET DIEV 
 
 PELIX: HENRICQ REX 8 H. A. VIVAT. REX. 1540. DIEV. ET. MO. DROIT," &C. 
 
 Divine Service is performed here as at our cathedrals, by the gentlemen 
 of the choir, and ten choristers (boys). The establishment consists 
 of a Dean (usually the Bishop of London), the Sub- Dean, Lord High 
 Almoner, Sub- Almoner, Clerk of the Queen's Closet, deputy-clerks, 
 chaplains, priests, organists, and composer ; besides violist and lutanist 
 (now sinecures), and other officers ; and until 1833, there was a " Con- 
 fessor to the Royal Household." Each of the Chaplains in Ordinary 
 preaches once a year in the Chapel Royal. The hours of service are 
 8 A. M. and 12 noon. There are seats for the nobility, admission-fee 2s. 
 George III., when in town, attended this chapel, when a nobleman car- 
 ried the sword of state before him, and heralds, pursuivants-at-arms, 
 and other officers, walked in procession ; and so persevering was his 
 attendance at prayers, that Madame d'Arblay, one of the robing-women, 
 tells us, in November 1747, the Queen and family, dropping off one by 
 one, used to leave the King, the parson, and His Majesty's equerry, to 
 "freeze it out together." In this chapel were married Prince George 
 of Denmark and the Princess Anne; Frederick Prince of Wales and 
 the daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha; George IV. and Queen Caro- 
 line; and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Before the building 
 of the Chapel at Buckingham Palace, Her Majesty and the Court at- 
 tended the Chapel Royal, St. James's. The silver candelabra and other 
 altar plate are magnificent. The fittings of the Chapel and Palace for 
 the last royal marriage cost 9226/. 
 
 In the Liber Niger Domus Regni (temp. Edward IV.) is an ordinance naming 
 " Children of the Chapelle viij. founden by the King's privie cofferes for all that 
 longeth to their apperelle by the hands and oversyghte of the deane, or by the 
 master of song assigned to teache them ;" such being the origin or the present 
 musical establishment of the Chapel Royal. Ordinances were also issued for the 
 
166 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 impressment of boys for the royal choirs: in 1550, the master of the King's 
 Chapel had license " to take up from time to time children to serve the King's 
 Chapel." Tusser, the " Husbandrie " poet, was, when a boy, in Elizabeth's reign, 
 thus impressed for the Queen's Chapel. The Gentlemen and Children of the 
 Chapel Royal were the principal performers in the religious dramas or Myste- 
 ries; and a "master of the children," and "singing children," occur in the 
 chapel establishment of Cardinal Wolsey. In 1583, the Children of the Chapel 
 Royal, afterwards called the Children of the Revels, were formed into a company 
 of players, and thus were among the earliest performers of the regular drama. 
 In 1731, they performed Handel's Esther, the first oratorio heard in England; 
 and they continued to assist at oratorios in Lent, so long as those performances 
 maintained their ecclesiastical character entire. 
 
 " Spur-money," a fine upon all who entered the chapel with spurs on, was for- 
 merly levied by the choristers at the doors, upon condition that the youngest of 
 them could repeat his gamut; if he failed, the spur-bearer was exempt. In a 
 tract dated 1598. the choristers are reproved for "hunting after spur-money;." 
 and the ancient Cheque-book of the Chapel Royal, date 1622, contains an order of 
 the Dean, decreeing the custom. "Within my recollection," writes Dr. Rim- 
 bault, in 1850, "the Duke of Wellington (who, by the way, is an excellent musi- 
 cian) entered the Royal Chapel 'booted and spurred,' and was, of course, called 
 upon for the fine. But his Grace calling upon the youngest chorister to repeat 
 his gamut, and the ' little urchin ' failing, the impost was not demanded." Notes 
 and Queries, No. 30. 
 
 CHAPEL ROYAL, "WHITEHALL, the Banqueting House of the Palace, 
 designed by Inigo Jones, commenced June 1, 3619, finished March 31, 
 1622, cost 14.940/. 4s. Id. (See WHITEHALL.) The above hall was con- 
 verted into a chapel in the reign of George I., who, in 1724, appointed 
 certain preachers, six from Oxford and six from Cambridge University, 
 to preach in successive months on the Sundays, at a salary of 301. through 
 the year. The edifice has, however, never been consecrated as a chapel. 
 It was shut up in 1829, and remained closed till 1837, during which time 
 it was restored and refitted as we now see it, under the direction of 
 Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. The lower windows were then closed up, the 
 walls were hung with drapery, (1400 yards of drugget,) and the floor 
 carpeted, to remedv the excessive echo. The Guards formerly at- 
 tended Divine Service here ; they now attend at the chapel in "Wel- 
 lington Barracks, St. James's Park ; and the gallery in which they sat 
 at Whitehall has been removed. The organ originally placed here was 
 sold by order of Cromwell, and is now in Stamford Church, Leices- 
 tershire; the present organ is of subsequent date. The hall is exactly 
 a double cube, being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 
 6 inches wide. Over the principal doorway is a bronze bust of James 
 I., attributed to Le Soeur ; above is the organ-loft, and along the two 
 sides is a lofty gallery. Above the altar were formerly placed eagles 
 and other trophies taken from the French at Barossa, in Egypt, and at 
 Waterloo ; but they have been removed to Chelsea Hospital. The 
 Whitehall ceiling is'divided into panels, and painted black, and gilded in 
 parts. These are lined with oil pictures on canvass, painted abroad by 
 Rubens in 1635, it is stated for 3000Z., by commission from Charles I. 
 There are nine compartments : the largest in the centre, oval, contains the 
 apotheosis of James I., who is trampling on the globe, and about to flv 
 on the wings of Justice (an eagle) to heaven.* On the two long sides of 
 it are great friezes, with genii, who load sheaves of corn and fruits in 
 carriages, drawn by lions, bears, and rams : each of the boys measures 
 9 feet. The northernmost of the large compartments represents the 
 King pointing to Peace and Plenty, embracing Minerva, and routing 
 Rebellion and Envy ; at the south end (the altar) the King is on the 
 throne, appointing Prince Charles his successor. The four corner pic- 
 tures arc allegorical representations of Royal Power and Virtue. The 
 whule are best viewed from the south end of the apartment. Dr. 
 
 * Ruben s's original sketch is in the National Gallery, Trafalgar-square. 
 
EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 167 
 
 Waagen considers these pictures to have been principally executed by 
 the pupils of Rubens : they have undergone four restorations : in 1687, 
 under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren ; and about 1811, by 
 Cipriani, who was paid 2000Z. Vandyck was to have painted the sides 
 of the Banqueting House with the history and procession of the Order 
 of the Garter. Divine Service is performed in the chapel on Sundays, 
 Saints' Days, &c., the gentlemen and choristers of the Chapels Koyal 
 executing the musical service. 
 
 In Whitehall Chapel, on Maundy Thursday (the day preceding Good Friday), is 
 distributed by the Queen's Almoners the Royal Bounty to as many poor aged 
 men and women as the sovereign is years of age. The alms money consists of 
 sovereigns, and silver pieces of 4d., 3d., 2d., and Id. value, (Maundy Money,) in 
 purses and red and white leather bags, carried in alms-dishes by Yeomen of the 
 Guard, preceded by the Almoners. The distribution takes place at the conclu- 
 sion of the first lesson of the Morning Service : the purses are given to the women ; 
 and the leathern bags, with stockings, shoes, and broadcloth, to the men. The 
 service is then proceeded with, and concludes with a prayer for the Queen. The 
 Maundy gift to each person, in coin and clothing, amounts to about 51. ; and it 
 is extended to the pensioners of previous years. The gold is put in the red bags, 
 the silver in the white. The Maundy Money is struck each year at the Royal 
 Mint, and is current coin of the realm : a set may be purchased of any dealer in 
 coins. Formerly bread, meat, and fish were also distributed in large wooden bowls, 
 and the officers carried bouquets of flowers and wore white scarves and sashes; 
 but the earliest custom was the King washing with his own hands the feet of as 
 many poor men as he was years old, in imitation of the humility of the Saviour. 
 The last prince who performed this was James II., in the ancient Chapel. 
 
 CHARLOTTE CHAPEL, Charlotte-street, Buckingham-gate, was built 
 in 1776 for " the unfortunate Dr. Dodd," who laid the first stone in July. 
 " Great success attended the undertaking," writes Dodd ; " it pleased 
 and it elated me." In the following year, June 27, he was hanged at 
 Tyburn for forgery. Charlotte Chapel, now St. Peter's, was also occu- 
 pied by Dr. Dillon ; and it was refitted, with great cost, in 1850. 
 
 DUKE-STREET CHAPEL, Westminster, was originally the north wing 
 of the house built for Lord Jefferies, Lord Chancellor to King James II., 
 who permitted a flight of stone steps to be made thence into St. James's 
 Park, for Jefferies's special accommodation : they terminate above in 
 a small court, on three sides of which stands the once costly mansion. 
 One portion of it was used as an Admiralty House, until that office was 
 removed by William III. to Wallingford House. The north wing (in 
 which Jefferies transacted his judicial business out of term,) was formed 
 into a chapel in 1769, with a daily service ; Dr. Pettingale, the anti- 
 quary, was for some time incumbent. (See Walcott's Westminster, p. 72.) 
 
 ST. ETHELREDA'S, Ely-place, Holborn, is all that remains of the 
 ancient palace of the Bishops of Ely, and retains much of its original 
 aspect: the interior roof is boldly arched; on each side is a row of 
 noble windows, though their tracery has disappeared; the pinnacle- 
 work between and overtopping them is very fine, and at the east end is 
 "one fine Decorated window, of curious composition." Evelyn records 
 the consecration here of Dr. Wilkins, Bishop of Chester, in 1668, when 
 Dr. Tillotson preached ; and April 27, 1693, Evelyn's daughter Susannah 
 was married here to William Draper, Esq., by Dr. Tenison, then 
 Bishop of Lincoln. Cowper thus chronicles an amusing occurrence 
 in this chapel, at the time of the defeat of the Young Pretender by the 
 Duke of Cumberland, in 1746 : 
 
 " So in the chapel of old Ely House, 
 When wandering Charles, who meant to be the Third, 
 Had fled from William, and the news was fresh, 
 The simple clerk, but loyal, did announce, 
 And eke did roar right merrily two staves, 
 Sung to the praise and glory of King George," 
 
168 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The chapel, after being leased to the National Society for a school- 
 room, was for some time closed; but on Dec. 19, 1843, was opened for 
 the service of the Established Church in the Welsh language ; this being 
 the first performance of the kind in London. 
 
 FOREIGN PROTESTANT CHURCHES. There are in London two 
 branches of the Church of Foreign Protestants founded by Charter of 
 Edward VI., July 24, 1550. The French Branch was at first exclusively 
 composed of the refugees who quitted France before the revocation of 
 the Edict of Nantes.* They first assembled with their German and Dutch 
 brethren in the " Temple du Seigneur Jesus " in Austin Friars ; but their 
 number having greatly increased, they subsequently met for public wor- 
 ship in the chapel of St. Mary, dependent on the Hospital of St. An- 
 tony, in Threadneedle-street, and belonging to the Dean and Chapter 
 of Windsor, which building was taken down in 1841. They next re- 
 moved to a new church in St. Martin" s-le-Grand, nearly opposite the 
 General Post- Office : this church, designed by Owen, and opened in 
 1842, is a tasteful specimen of Gothic, and has a large east window with 
 flamboyant tracery, flanked by lofty turrets. The German, Dutch, or 
 Flemish Branch was at first composed of the Polish exil? Jean a Lasco, 
 and the members of his church at Embden in East Friesland. To these 
 German Protestants were united the Dutch and Flemish refugees ; 
 they are all included in the Charter of Edward VI., as forming one sole 
 nation, Germanorum ; and the church was subsequently known as the 
 Flemish Church. The " Temple du Seigneur Jesus," in Austin Friars, 
 is occupied by the members of the Dutch Church: on each of its painted 
 windows is inscribed, " Templum Jesu, 1550." It originally belonged 
 to the house of the Augustine Friars, founded in 1243. Stow describes 
 it as surmounted by " a most fine-spired steeple, small, high, and 
 straight ;" and adds, " I have not seen the like." At the Dissolution, 
 the church was reserved by Henry VIII., and was granted by his son 
 to the poor Dutch refugees from the Netherlands, France, "and other 
 parts beyond seas, from Papist persecutors;" and the grant is enjoyed 
 by the Dutch to this day. The church contains some very good Deco- 
 rated windows. 
 
 " On the west end, over the skreen, is a fair library, inscribed thus : ' Ecclesiae 
 Londino-Belgiae Bibliotheca, extructa sumptibus Maria; Dubois, 1659.' In this 
 library are divers valuable MSS., and letters of Calvin, Peter Martyr, and others, 
 foreign Reformers." Strype, b. ii, p. 116. 
 
 On July 24, 1850, the tercentenary of the Royal Charter of Edward 
 VI. was solemnly commemorated in this church by a special service, 
 as also in the French Protestant Church in St. Martin's-le- Grand; 
 and the members of the consistories of both churches dined together 
 in the evening, and drank " To the memory of the pious King Ed- 
 ward VI." Besides the above, there is a French Protestant Chapel in 
 Bloomsbury-street, designed by Poynter, and built in 1846, for the 
 congregation first established in the Savoy: it has a pointed gable and 
 a large Decorated eastern window. In Moor-street, Soho, is a Swiss 
 Protestant Chapel, where is preserved a pair of colours, thus inscribed r 
 
 " These colours were presented by King George the Second to the Swiss resi- 
 dents in this country, as a mark of the sense which his Majesty was graciously 
 pleased to entertain of the offer made by them of a battalion of 500 men, towards 
 the defence of the kingdom on Ihe occasion of the Rebellion " (Scottish, 1745). 
 
 * The number of French Protestants who took refuge in England after the 
 revocation of the Edict of Nantes is estimated at 80,000. Of these, 13,000 settled 
 in London, in the districts of Long Acre, Seven Dials, Soho, and Spitalfields. At 
 least one-third of these refugees joined the French Church in the years 1686, 
 1687, and 1688. Manifesto, 1850. 
 
EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 169 
 
 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL CHAPEL, Guildford-street, was designed by 
 Jacobson, in 1747, and built by subscription, to which George II. con- 
 tributed 3000/. Handel gave the large profits of a performance of his 
 music; and his " Messiah," performed in the chapel for several years 
 under his superintendence, produced the Charity 7000/. At the west 
 end of the edifice are seated the children and the choir ; and in the centre 
 is the organ, given by Handel : the altar-piece, " Christ presenting 
 a little child," is by West, who retouched the picture in 1816. Several 
 blind " foundlings," instructed in music, by their singing, greatly added 
 to the funds of the Charity, by pew-rents and contributions at the 
 doors, and for several years the latter exceeded IQOQl. ; the net pro- 
 ceeds of the chapel at present are 687/. the year, after paying the 
 professional choir. The services are on Sunday morning and afternoon, 
 but no service in the evening. Beneath the chapel are stone catacombs : 
 the first person buried here was Captain Coram, the founder of the 
 Hospital. Lord-Chief-Justice Tenterden (d. 1832) is interred here ; and 
 his marble bust is placed in the eastern entrance to the chapel. Children 
 who die in the Hospital are buried in the churchyard of St. Pancras. 
 (See FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.) 
 
 GRAY'S INN CHAPEL adjoins the Great Hall, and is provided for 
 the public, as well as for the Benchers arid residents of the Inn. It is 
 of modern Gothic design, and is supposed to occupy the site of " the 
 Chauntry of Portpoole," mentioned in the grant from Lord Gray of 
 "Wilton, in 1505, to Hugh Denny. Among the preachers was Richard 
 Sibbs, author of the Bruised Reed, which led to the conversion of 
 Richard Baxter, the future Puritan divine. 
 
 GROSVENOR CHAPEL, South Audley-street, contains in its vault the 
 remains of Ambrose Philips, the Whig poet, whom Pope ridiculed, but 
 Tickell, Warton, and Goldsmith eulogised; of Lady Mary Wortley Mon- 
 tagu ; and John Wilkes, designated by himself on a tablet as " a.Friend 
 to Liberty." 
 
 HANOVER CHAPEL, Regent-street, between Prince's and Hanover- 
 streets, was built in 1823-5, (C. R. Cockerell, R.A., architect,) and is 
 of the Ionic order of the Temple of Minerva Polias at Priene : it has 
 a well-proportioned portico extending across the footpath, and pic- 
 turesquely breaking the street line ; two square turrets, of less felici- 
 tous design, finish the elevation. The interior is square, and mostly 
 lighted by a large glazed cupola, surmounted with a cross ; and the 
 arrangement generally resembles that of St. Stephen's, Walbrook : 
 the altar-piece is a splendid composition of imitative antique marbles, 
 enriched with passion-flowers and lilies, superbly coloured. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, Hampstead-road, is a chapel-of-ease to St. 
 James's, Westminster. In the burial-ground adjoining lie George 
 Morland, the painter (d. 1804), and his wife ; John Hoppner, the por- 
 trait-painter (d. 1810) ; and, without a memorial, Lord George Gor- 
 don, the leader of the Riots of 1780, who died in Newgate in 1793. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, Pentonville, is a chapel-of-ease to St. James's, 
 Clerkenwell, and was built by T. Hardwick. Here is interred R. P. 
 Bonington, the landscape-painter (d. 1828) ; and in the burial-ground 
 lies poor Tom Dibdin, the playwright, close by the grave of his friend, 
 Joseph Grimaldi, " Old Joe,""the famous clown (d. 1837). 
 
 ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL, Bedford-row, at the corner of Chapel-street 
 and Great James-street, has been the frequent scene of schism from 
 its first erection for Dr. Sacheverel ; it was subsequently occupied by 
 the Rev. Mr. Cecil (low-church) ; by the Rev. Dr. Dillon, of unenviable 
 notoriety ; the Rev. Daniel Wilson (now Bishop of Calcutta) ; the Rev. 
 Mr. Sibthorp, given to change; and by the Hon. and Rev. Baptist 
 
170 CURieSfTIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Noel, who, after 22 years' ministry, preached his farewell sermon here, 
 Dec. 3, 1848 ; and on Aug. 9, 1849, was publicly baptised in John-street 
 Chapel, of which he became minister. 
 
 KENTISH TOWN CHAPEL, or district church, is a spacious and costly 
 edifice in the Early Decorated style (Bartholomew, architect). It has 
 two lofty steeples, and a large painted altar-window, and four smaller 
 windows, inscribed with the Decalogue, Creed, &c., within sacramental 
 borders of corn and vines ; the altar recess has some good sculpture. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S WOOD CHAPEL, north-west of the Regent's-park, is of 
 the Ionic order, and was designed by the late T. Hard wick : it has a tetra- 
 style portico, and a tower, surmounted with a Roman -Doric lantern. 
 Here or in the adjoining cemetery, which is tastefully planted with trees 
 and shrubs, are buried John Farquhar, Esq., of Fonthill Abbey, Wilts, 
 with a medallion portrait (d. 1826) ; Richard Brothers, " the prophet" 
 (d. 1824); Tredgold, the engineer (d. 1829); Joanna Southcott, "the 
 prophetess" (d. 1814), with prophetic quotations from Scripture, in gilt 
 letters upon black marble : John Jackson, R. A., the portrait-painter 
 (d. 1831), &c. " About 40,000 persons lie interred in this cemetery." 
 Smith's Marylebone, 18*3. 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN CHAPEL, one of "the Old Buildings," was built in 
 1621-23 : Dr. Donne laid the first stone, and preached the consecration 
 sermon, the old chapel being then in a ruinous condition. Inigo Jones 
 was the architect of the new chapel, as stated in the print by Vertue, 
 in 1751 : it stands upon an open crypt or cloister, in which the students 
 of the Inn met and conferred, and received their clients. Pepys records 
 his going to Lincoln's Inn, " to walk under the chapel, by agreement." 
 It is now enclosed with iron railings, and is used as a burial-place for the 
 Benchers. The chapel has side windows and intervening buttresses, 
 style, temp. Edward III.; the large eastern window has a beautifully 
 traceried circle, divided into twelve trefoiled lights. At the south-west 
 angle is a turret with cupola and vane, and containing an ancient bell, 
 traditionally brought from Spain about 1596, among the spoils acquired 
 by the gallant Earl of Essex at the capture of Cadiz. The ascent to 
 the chapel is by a flight of steps, under an archway and porch, the lat- 
 ter built by Hardwick in 1843. The windows are filled with glass, 
 unusually fine : those on the sides have figures of prophets and apostles, 
 by Flemish artists ; the great eastern and western windows have armorial 
 embellishments. The carved oaken seats are of the time of James I., 
 but the pulpit is later. The organ, by Flight and Robson (1820), is of 
 great power and sweetness of tone 1 ; and the choral service is attentively 
 performed. In the porch is a cenotaph, with Latin inscription, to the 
 Right Hon. Spencer Perceval; and on the ascent to the chapel is a 
 marble tablet to Eleanora Louisa (d. 1839), daughter of Lord Brougham 
 (a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn), with a poetic inscription, in Latin, by the 
 late Marquis of "W ellesley, written in his 81st year. Among the remark- 
 able persons buried in the cloister under the chapel are John Thurloe, 
 Secretary of State to Oliver Cromwell; and William Prynne, who pre- 
 served many of our public records. In the list of preachers in this 
 chapel are the great names of Gataker, Donne, Usher, Tillotson, War- 
 burton, Hurd, Heber, &c. The Rev. J. S. M. Anderson is the present 
 preacher. (Selected principally from a carefully-written account of 
 Lincoln's Ir>n and its Library, by W. H. Spilsbury, Librarian. 1850.) 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL CHAPEL, Blackfriars-road, is attractive by 
 the singing of a choir of the reclaimed women. The " Magdalen House" 
 was originally established in Prescot-street, Goodman's-tields, in 1758; 
 where Dr. Dodd was chaplain, and rendered great service to the Charity 
 by his eloquent preaching. 
 
EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 171 
 
 MARGARET-STREET CHAPEL, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, 
 was first converted into a chapel -in 1789. Huntington preached here 
 with Lady Huntingdon's people, when he first came to London. In 
 1833, the minister was the Rev. W. Dodsworth, who has since seceded 
 to the Roman Catholic Church. At Margaret-street may be said to have 
 been the first development of "Puseyism" in the metropolis. In 1842, 
 the chapel was under the direction of the Rev. Frederick Oakeley, a 
 non-resident Fellow of Balliol College, Oxford. 
 
 " Flowers, and altar-candlesticks, and Gregorian chantings, and scarce-concealed 
 bo-wings, and strange modes of reading prayers, and frequent services, with a con- 
 spicuous cross over the communion-table, served to awake the suspicions of the 
 wary ; and in conjunction with a course of zealous and earnest preaching, and the 
 self-denying lives of the chief minister and his friends, to persuade the frequenters 
 of the chapel that here, at least, was a true ' Catholic revival,' and that by the 
 multiplication of Margaret Chapels the whole Anglican Establishment might be at 
 length 'un-Protestantised.' To Margaret Chapel also was due no little of that 
 phase of the movement which consisted in the 'adapting' of Catholic books to 
 'the use of members of the English Church ;' and by the employment of which it 
 has done so much good in preparing the minds of its congregation for the reception 
 of the Catholic faith. This system was soon taken up by no less important a per- 
 son than Dr. Pusey himself." The Rambler, a Catholic Journal, Feb. 1851. 
 In 1845, Mr. Oakeley resigned his license as minister of Margaret 
 Chapel, which then fell to his curate, Mr. Richards. Mr. Oakeley sub- 
 sequently joined the Roman Catholic Church ; and the chapel in 
 Margaret-street was taken down in. 1850 to be rebuilt. 
 
 ST. MARK'S CHAPEL, Fulham-road, attached to the National Society's 
 Training College for Schoolmasters, was erected in 1843, in the Nor- 
 man or Romanesque style ; cruciform in plan, with semicircular eastern 
 end, and twin towers with high-pitched brocJie roofs, resembling an early 
 German church. It serves as a place of worship for the adjoining dis- 
 trict, as well as for the inmates of the College ; and the greater part of 
 the service is chanted by the students, without organ or other accom- 
 paniment. The east end has some stained glass of olden character. 
 
 ST. MARK'S, North Audley-street, a chapel-of-ease to St. George ? s, 
 Hanover-square, is of original and not inelegant design, by Gandy 
 Deering, R.A. : the order is Ionic from the Erectheum ; the portico has 
 two handsome fluted columns, with an enriched entablature ; and above 
 is a turret of Grecian design, with pierced iron-work sides and pyrami- 
 dal stone roof, with gilt ball and cross. This chapel was consecrated 
 April 25, 1828. Some of the adjoining houses are in the heavy style of 
 Sir John Vanbrugh. 
 
 PERCY CHAPEL, Charlotte-street, was built by the Rev. Henry 
 Matthew, an early patron of Flaxman (Cunningham). It has since 
 been the scene of the eloquent preaching of the Rev. Robert Mont- 
 gomery, author of " The Omnipresence of the Deity," a poem. 
 
 ST. PHILIP'S CHAPEL, Regent-street, midway between Waterloo- 
 place and Piccadilly, was built by Repton, and consecrated in 1820, It 
 has a tower from the Lantern of Demosthenes at Athens, and a Doric 
 portico, with sacrificial emblems on the side porticoes or wings. 
 
 ST. PETER'S EPISCOPAL CHAPEL, Queen -square, Westminster, was 
 originally a royal gift for the special use of the Judges of Westminster, 
 and was frequented by the members of the Royal Household. In 1840, 
 it was much injured by afire, which originated in the adjoining mansion 
 of Mr. Hoare ; and the altar-piece, then nearly destroyed, was one of 
 the finest specimens of ancient oak-carving in England. Here have offi- 
 ciated the venerable Romaine; Gunn, Basil Woodd, Wilcox, and Shep- 
 herd : the latter for 50 years held the chaplaincy, with the lectureship 
 of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. St. Peter's was, about 136 years ago, the 
 
172 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 chapel of the Spanish Embassy ; and here preached Antonio Gavin, a 
 secular priest, who having been converted from Popery to the Church 
 of England, was licensed to officiate in this chapel in the Spanish lan- 
 guage, by Dr. Robinson, then Bishop of London ; and sermons in Spanish 
 preached here by Gavin were published. See Gent. Mag. Feb. 1827. 
 
 ST. PETER'S (formerly OXFORD) CHAPEL, Vere-street, Oxford-street, 
 designed by Gibbs, was built about 1724, and was once considered the 
 most beautiful edifice of its class in the metropolis. It has a Doric por- 
 tico and a three-storied steeple. The Duke of Portland was married at 
 this chapel in 1734. 
 
 PORTLAND CHAPEL, now ST. PAUL'S, in Great Portland-street, was 
 built in 1776, on the site of Marylebone basin, which supplied that part 
 of the metropolis with water. The chapel was not consecrated at the 
 time of its erection ; but Divine Service was performed in it until 1831, 
 when the consecration was performed, and it was dedicated to St. Paul. 
 At the Portland Hotel, north of the chapel, Captain (now Sir John) 
 Ross lodged after his return from the North Pole, in 1833. 
 
 QUEBEC CHAPEL, Quebec-street, Marylebone, was built in 1788, 
 and is celebrated for its sweet-toned organ, and musical service. 
 
 ROLLS' CHAPEL is attached to the Rolls House, between 14 and 15 
 Chancery -lane, and was originally built of flints, with stone finishings, 
 early in the seventeenth century. Pennant states that it was begun 
 in 1617, and that Dr. Donne preached the consecration sermon. The 
 large west window has some old stained glass, including the arms of 
 Sir Robert Cecil and Sir Harbottle Grimston ; and here are a large 
 organ, and presses in which the Records are kept. Among the monu- 
 ments are : to Dr. John Young, Master of the Rolls temp. Henry VIII., 
 a recumbent figure, in a long red gown and deep square cap, the face 
 fine ; above, in a recess, is a head of Christ, between two cherubim, in 
 bold relief; this tomb is attributed to Torrigiano : to Lord Kinloss, 
 Master of the Rolls to James I., reclining figure in a long furred robe, 
 and before him a kneeling figure in armour, supposed his son, killed in 
 a desperate duel with Sir Edward Sackville ; also, kneeling figure in 
 armour of Sir Richard Allington, his wife opposite, and three daugh- 
 ters on a tablet ; and here lie Sir John Trevor, Master of the Rolls 
 (d. 1717), and other Masters. Bishops Burnet, Atterbury, and Butler, 
 were eloquent preachers at the Rolls' ; and Burnet's volume of fifteen 
 sermons delivered here contains the germ of his great work the Ana- 
 logy of Religion. Rolls' Chapel occupies the site of a house founded by 
 Henry III. for converted Jews, and in 1377, annexed by Edward III. 
 to the new office of Gustos Rotulorum, or Keeper of the Rolls, who has 
 his chaplain and preacher : in 1837, the estate was vested by Parlia- 
 ment in the Crown, the salary of the Master of the Rolls being fixed at 
 7000Z. a-year in lieu of fines and rents. 
 
 TEXISON'S CHAPEL, between Nos. 172 and 174, east side of Regent- 
 street, was founded by Archbishop Tenison, who, in 1700, conveyed to 
 trustees, (of whom Sir Isaac Newton was one,) this chapel or tabernacle, 
 to be employed as a public chapel or oratory for St. James's parish ; at 
 the same time giving 500Z. to be laid out in the purchase of houses, land" 
 or ground-rents. Out of the revenues and the Archbishop's charity wei 
 to be provided two preachers for the chapel, and a reader " to say D : 
 vine Service every day throughout the year, morning and afternoon ;' 
 a clerk to officiate ; and schoolmasters to teach without charge p< 
 boys of the parish to read, write, cast accounts, and in five years to 
 sist them in becoming apprentices. There are forty boys on the founc 
 tion ; non-foundationers pay 12s. 6d. per quarter : the school is at Nc 
 172 Regent-street. The Archbishop of Canterbury for the time L - 
 
DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 173 
 
 is visitor of this excellent charity. The chapel was erected in 1702, and 
 was refroiited in building Regent-street. 
 
 TRINITT CHAPEL, Conduit-street, now a neat brick edifice, was 
 originally a small wooden room upon wheels, resembling a caravan. 
 Evelyn describes it as " formerly built of timber on Hounslow-heath, 
 by King James, for the mass-priests, and being begged by Dr, Tenison, 
 rector of St. Martin's, was set up by that public-minded, charitable, 
 and pious man," Pennant writes : 
 
 " The history of Conduit-street Chapel, or Trinity Chapel, is very remarkable. 
 It was originally built of wood by James II., for private mass, and was conveyed 
 on wheels, attendant on its royal master's excursions, or when he attended his 
 army. Among other places, it visited Hounslow-heath, where it continued some 
 time after the Revolution. It was then removed and enlarged by the Rector of 
 the parish of St. Martin's, and placed not far from the spot on which it now stands. 
 Dr. Tenison, when Rector of St. Martin's, got permission of King William to re- 
 build it ; so, after it had made as many journeys as the house of Loretto, it was by 
 Tenison transmuted into a good building of brick, and has rested ever since on 
 the present site." 
 
 YORK- STREET CHAPEL, on the north side of St. James's-square, is a 
 chapel-of-ease to St. James's. In 1815, it was occupied by Swedenbor- 
 giaus. It was originally the chapel of the Spanish Embassy (then at 
 the present No. 7 St. James's-square) ; and the " Tower of Castile," 
 the Arms of Spain, appears on the parapet of the front, 
 
 DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 
 
 ALBION CHAPEL, Moorgate, next to 116 London Wall, designed by 
 Jay, has a pleasing diastyle Ionic portico. It belongs to a congrega- 
 tion of the Scotch Secession. 
 
 BAPTIST CHAPEL, Little Wild-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields : here is 
 annually preached a sermon in commemoration of the Great Storm, 
 Nov. 26, 1703. The preacher in 1846, the Rev. C. Woollacott, in de- 
 scribing the damage by the storm, stated : 
 
 " In London alone, more than 800 houses were laid in ruins, and 2000 stacks of 
 chimneys thrown down. In the country upwards of 400 windmills were either blown 
 down or took fire, by the violence with which their sails were driven round by the 
 wind. In the New Forest, 4000 trees were blown down, and more than 19,000 in 
 the same state were counted in the county of Kent. On the sea the ravages of 
 this frightful storm were yet more distressing: 15 ships of the Royal Navy, and 
 more than 300 merchant vessels, were lost, with upwards of 6000 British seamen. 
 The Eddystone Lighthouse, with its ingenious architect, Mr. Winstanley, was 
 totally destroyed. The Bishop of Bath and Wells and his lady were killed by the 
 falling of their palace. The sister of the Bishop of London, and many others, 
 lost their lives." 
 
 This annual custom has been observed upwards of a century. The 
 chapel is built upon the site of Weld House and gardens, the mansion 
 of the son of Sir Humphrey Weld, Lord Mayor of London in 1608. It 
 was subsequently let : Ronquillo, the Spanish Ambassador, lived here 
 in the time of Charles II. and James II. ; and in the anti-Popish riots 
 of the latter reign the house was sacked by the mob, and the Ambas- 
 sador compelled to make his escape at a back door. 
 
 BLOOMSBURY BAPTIST CHAPEL, on the west side of Bloomsbury- 
 street, was designed by Gibson, and opened Dec. 2, 1848 : it is in ele- 
 
 to the north is Bedford Chapel. Among the houses taken down near 
 Bloomsbury-street, and towards the centre of what is now New Ox- 
 ford-street, stood the Hare and Hounds public-house, a noted resort of 
 the Londoners of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries: till the reign 
 of Charles II. it born the sip-n of t.hft TCep-prar's Rush, when the name was 
 
174 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 changed, owing to a hare having been hunted and caught there, and 
 cooked and eaten in the house. 
 
 CONGREGATIONAL NONCONFORMIST CHURCH, Kentish Town, de- 
 signed by Hodge and Butler, and opened in 1848, is in the ecclesiastical 
 style of the 15th century, and has several richly -traceried windows filled 
 with stained glass, including a splendid wheel-window, 15 feet diameter. 
 
 ESSEX-STREET CHAPEL, Strand, the head-quarters of the Unita- 
 rians of the metropolis, is built upon part of the site of Essex House, 
 taken down in 1774. In a portion of it was kept the Cottonian Library 
 from 1712 to 1730 ; one of its large apartments was let to Paterson, the 
 auctioneer, and was next hired by the patrons of Mr. Lindsey and Dr. 
 Disney (Unitarians), to preach in. In 1805, on the death of Dr. Disney, 
 Mr. Thomas Belsham removed to Essex-street Chapel from the Gravel- 
 pit congregation at Hackney, where he had succeeded Dr. Priestley. 
 At Essex-street, Belsham continued pastor during the rest of his life, 
 acquiring great popularity by his eloquent and argumentative preach- 
 ing ; he died in 1829, aged 80, and was succeeded by the Rev. Thomas 
 Madge, the present minister. 
 
 HORBURT CHAPEL, Kensington-Park-road, Notting-hill, was built 
 by subscription of the Independent denomination, and opened Sept. 13, 
 1849. The design, by Tarring, is transition from Early English to 
 Decorated, with a pair of towers and spires; the principal windows are 
 filled with stained glass. 
 
 INDEPENDENT CHAPEL, Robinson's-row, Kingsland, was built about 
 1792 : here the Rev. John Campbell, the benevolent South- African 
 missionary, was 37 years minister, and is buried ; and an elegant marble 
 monument to his memory has been erected by his flock. 
 
 JEWIN-STREET CHAPEL, Aldersgate-street, was built in 1808, for 
 a congregation of English Presbyterians, who removed thither from 
 Meeting-House-court, Old Jewry. Among the eminent pastors were 
 the eloquent John Herries ; Dr. Price, F.R.S., the writer on finance ; and 
 Dr. Abraham Rees, editor of the Cyclopaedia which bears his name. 
 
 MORAVIAN CHAPEL, Fetter-lane, is the only place of worship be- 
 longing to the Moravians (United Brethren) in London, by whom it 
 was purchased in 1738, on their settling in England. The interior is 
 remarkably plain, and bespeaks the simple character of its occupants ; 
 there is a small organ, for they have church music and singing ; there 
 are no pews, but seats for males and females, apart. The chapel is ca- 
 pacious, but the auditory does not exceed from 200 to 300 persons: 
 the support is voluntary. There is a burial-ground for the members, 
 with a small chapel, at Lower Chelsea, near the Clock-house. At 
 Chelsea, in June 1760, died Count Zinzendorf, who first introduced the 
 Moravians into this country. The chapel in Fetter-lane lies in the rear 
 of the houses, one of the entrances to it being through No. 32 : it was 
 possibly so built for privacy. It escaped the Great Fire of 1666, and was 
 originally occupied by the Nonconformists. Turner, who was its first 
 minister, was very active during the Great Plague ; and having been 
 ejected from Sunbury, he continued to preach in Fetter-lane till towards 
 the close of the reign of Charles II. Here also Baxter, the eminent 
 Nonconformist divine, preached after the Indulgence granted in 1672; 
 and he held the Friday-morning lectureship until August, 1682. 
 
 NATIONAL SCOTCH CHURCH, Crown-court, Little Russell-street, 
 Covent Garden, has a cement Norman fasade, with the staircases effec- 
 tive outside features. The minister is the Rev. Dr. Gumming, who 
 preached before Queen Victoria, at Crathie, Balmoral, Sept. 22, 1850 ; 
 and who ably controverted the claims of Dr. Wiseman in the same year. 
 
DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 175 
 
 OLD GRAVEL-PIT MEETING-HOUSE, Hackney, was built in 1715: 
 here Dr. Price, F.R.S., and Dr. Priestley were ministers ; next Mr. Bel- 
 sham, the congregation being Anti-Trinitarians ; succeeded by the Rev. 
 Robert Aspland, who remained here till the erection of the New Gravel- 
 pit Meeting-house, " Sacred to one God the Father," in Paradise-fields. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN DISSENTERS' CHAPEL, Mare-street, Hackney, was 
 established early in the 17th century : here Philip Nye and Adoniram 
 Byfield, two eminent Puritan divines, preached in 1636 ; and Dr. W. 
 Bates and Matthew Henry were pastors late in the 17th century. The 
 old meeting-house has been taken down, and a new one built opposite, 
 and occupied by Independents. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN MEETING-HOUSE, Newington-green, established soon 
 after the Restoration, was rebuilt about 1708: in the list of ministers 
 are Richard Biscoe, Hugh Worthington, M. A., John Hoyle, Dr. Richard 
 Price, F.R.S., Dr. Amory, Dr. Towers, Mr. Lindsey, Dr. Isaac Mad- 
 dox (afterwards Bishop of Worcester), Thomas Rees, and Mr. Barbauld, 
 husband of the authoress. 
 
 PROVIDENCE CHAPEL, Little Titchfield-street, Marylebone, was 
 built by a congregation of Independents for Huntington, S.S., ("the 
 Coal-heaver," as he called himself,) upon his credit with "the Bank 
 of Faith," when he quitted Margaret Chapel: when it was finished, "I 
 was in arrears," says Huntington, "for 1000J., so that I had plenty of 
 work for faith, if I could but get plenty of faith to work ; and while 
 some deny a providence, providence was the only supply I had." This 
 chapel was burnt down, with seven houses adjoining, and the site be- 
 came a timber-yard. 
 
 PROVIDENCE CHAPEL, on the east side of Gray's-Inn-lane, nearly 
 opposite Guildford-street, was built for Huntington, S.S., by his flock, 
 after the destruction of the Titchfield-street Chapel : this second edifice 
 he named from the pulpit for these reasons : that "unless God provided 
 men to work, and money to pay them, and materials to work with, no 
 chapel could be erected ; and if He provided all these, Providence must 
 be its name." The chapel was, accordingly, built in Gray's-Inn-lane, 
 and upon a larger scale than the last ; it was made over to him as his own, 
 and bequeathed in his will to his widow, who, however, resigned it to 
 the congregation. It was subsequently altered and opened as an Epis- 
 copal Chapel, the Rev. T. Mortimer, D.D., minister. 
 
 REGENT-SQUARE CHAPEL, Gray's-Inn-road, was built for the Rev. 
 Edward Irving, in 1824-5, Mr. Tite, the architect, adapting the prin- 
 cipal front from York Cathedral : the twin towers are 120 feet in 
 height. Here the " unknown tongues" attracted large and fashionable 
 congregations. 
 
 SOUTH-PLACE CHAPEL, Finsbury, is of Ionic design, and was built 
 for an Unitarian congregation, under the ministry of Mr. W. J. Fox, the 
 eloquent M.P. for Oldham. 
 
 SPA-FIELDS CHAPEL, Exmouth-street, Clerkenwell, is in the hands 
 of " Lady Huntingdon's connexion." The Spa-fields burying-ground 
 contains 42,640 square feet, and would decently inter 1,361 adult bodies; 
 yet within fifty years 80,000 bodies were deposited here, averaging 1500 
 per annum. To make room, bones and bodies were burnt for upwards 
 of a quarter of a century, to the constant annoyance of the neighbour- 
 hood ; until, in 1845, the lessees of the ground were indicted, and the 
 pestilential nuisance stopped. 
 
 SURREY CHAPEL, corner of Little Charlotte-street, Blackfriars- 
 road, is of octagonal form, and was built in 1783, for a congregation of 
 Calvinistic Dissenters, the Rev. Rowland Hill pastor, who preached 
 
176 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 here in the winter season for nearly 50 years : he had a house adjoining 
 where he died, aged 88, in 1833, and was buried in a vault under the 
 chapel. Adjacent, in Hill-street, are alms-houses for 24 poor widows, 
 built and maintained by the congregation. 
 
 SWEDENBORG CHURCH, Argyle-square, King's-cross, was opened 
 Aug. 11, 1844, for the followers of Swedenborg, whither they removed 
 from a small chapel in the City, built about forty years previously. 
 The new church is in the Anglo-Norman style, (Hopkins, architect,) 
 with two towers and spires, 70 feet high, each terminating with a 
 bronze cross ; the intervening gable has a stone cross, and a wheel 
 window over a deeply-recessed doorway. The interior has a finely- 
 vaulted roof ; the altar arrangements are peculiar ; and there is an 
 organ and choir. The founder of this sect, Baron Swedenborg (d. 1772), 
 is buried in the Swedish Church, Prince's-square, Ratcliffe Highway. 
 
 THE TABERNACLE, in Moorfields, was built in 1752; previously to 
 which, in 1741, shortly after Whitefield's separation from Wesley, some 
 Calvinistic Dissenters raised for Whitefield a large shed near the Foun- 
 dry, in Moorfields, upon a piece of ground lent for the purpose, until he 
 shouldreturn from America. From the temporary nature of the structure 
 it was called, in allusion to the tabernacles of the Israelites in the Wilder- 
 ness ; and the name became the designation of the chapels of the Calvin- 
 istic Methodists generally. Wvitefield's first pulpit here is said to have 
 been a grocer's sugar-hogshead, an eccentricity not improbable. In 
 1752, the wooden building was taken down, the site was leased by the 
 City of London, and the present chapel was built, with a lantern roof: 
 it is now occupied by Independents, and will hold about 4000 persons. 
 This chapel was the cradle of Methodism ; the preaching-places had 
 hitherto been Moorfields, Marylebone-fields, and Kennington-common. 
 Silas Told describes the Moorfields Tabernacle, in 1740, as "a ruinous 
 place, with an old pantile covering, a few rough deal boards put toge- 
 ther to constitute a temporary pulpit, and several other decayed timbers, 
 which composed the whole structure." John Wesley also preached here 
 (the Foundry, as it was called), at five in the morning and seven in the 
 evening. The men and women sat apart ; and there were no pews, or 
 difference of benches, or appointed place for any person. At this chapel, 
 the first Methodist Society was formed in 1740. 
 
 TRINITY CHAPEL, East-India-road, Poplar, was erected in 1840-1, 
 from a design by Hosking, at the expense of Mr. George Green, the 
 wealthy -shipbuilder of Blackwall, principally for shipwrights in his 
 employ, and for inducing the seamen in the neighbourhood to attend 
 divine worship. The chapel has a Greek Corinthian portico, and facade 
 with enrichments of shells, dolphins, and foliage ; and a classic bell- 
 tower, the summit 80 feet high. The interior has a Keene's-cement 
 pulpit, highly decorated; and a powerful organ by Walker, with a 
 Grecian architectural case. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, City-road, was built in 1778, upon ground 
 leased by the City : thither John Wesley removed from the Foundry 
 in Moorfields, the lease of which had expired ; and thenceforth the 
 City-road Chapel became the headquarters of the Society of Method- 
 ists. Wesley laid the first stone, in which his name and the date 
 were inserted upon a plate of brass : " This was laid by John Wesley, 
 on April 1, 1777." " Probably," says he, "this will be seen no more 
 by any human eye, but will remain there till the earth and the works 
 thereof are burnt up." John Wesley, who died March 2, 1791, aged 88, 
 was buried here in a vault which he had prepared for himself, and for 
 those itinerant preachers who might die in London. 
 
 "During his last illness, Wesley said, 'Let me be buried in nothing but 
 
DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 177 
 
 mrhat is woollen ; and let my corpse be carried in rr.y coffin into the chapel.' 
 rhis was done, according to his will, by six poor men, each of whom had 20s. ; 
 for I particularly desire,' said he, ' that there may be no hearse, no coach, no 
 escutcheon, no pomp, except the tears of them that love me, and are following 
 me to Abraham's bosom.' On the day preceding the interment, Wesley's body 
 iay in the chapel, in a kind of sta'e becoming the person, dressed in his clerical 
 labit, with gown, cassock, and band, the old clerical cap on his head, a Bible in 
 >ne hand, and a white handkerchief in the other. The face was placid, and the 
 jxpression which death had fixed upon his venerable features was that of a serene 
 md heavenly smile. The crowds who flocked to see him were so great, that it was 
 bought prudent, for fear of accidents, to accelerate the funeral, and perform it 
 >etween five and six in the morning. The intelligence, however, could not be 
 tept entirely secret, and several hundred persons attended at that unusual hour." 
 -Southey's Life of Wesley, 3d edit. vol. ii. p. 403. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, built 
 n 181], has a tasteful fasade, added by Jenkins in 1841, consisting of a 
 
 small Ionic tetrastyle forming a portico, crowned by a pediment ; above 
 is a Venetian triple window, and a handsome cornicione. The front is 
 jxecuted in beautiful Talacre stone from North Wales, and is the earliest 
 nstance of its being employed in our metropolitan buildings. 
 
 WESLEYAN MODEL CHAPEL, East-India-road, Poplar, named from 
 is improved plan, was built in 1848 (James Wilson, architect), by sub- 
 scription, to which one person gave 500Z. The style is Decorated, and 
 ;he materials are Caen and rag stone. The windows are richly traceried ; 
 ;here are two turrets, each 80 feet high, and the building is finished 
 with a pierced parapet, pinnacles, and roof- cresting. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, at the angle of the Islington end of the Liver- 
 pool- road, is in the Decorated style : it has a turret on the front gable 
 r6 feet in height, and the parapets are pierced with trefoils and quatre- 
 Foils. The principal windows have flowing tracery ; and the interior, 
 iivided by arches and octangular columns, whence spring the roof tim- 
 bers, is altogether of ecclesiastical character. 
 
 " The Wesleyans have now five or six edifices in London, clothed in the 
 Gothic dress of various periods, and following the usual arrangements of a me- 
 liaeval church, except having no tower and no extensive chancel, resembling 
 in this respect the churches erected between the Reformation and the late aban- 
 lonment of church design. The average capacity of these buildings is for 1300 
 persons. One, nearly facing St. John's, Clerkenwell, affects the complete Gothic 
 ibove, and has a neat original front, but thin." Companion to the Almanac, 1851. 
 
 WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE, Tottenham- Court-road, was designed 
 by Whitefield, and commenced building in 1756, upon a plot of ground 
 near the Field of Forty Footsteps, and the Lavender Mills, Coyer's 
 Gardens. In 1759 or 1760 was added an octangular front, which gave 
 it the appearance of two chapels ; the addition being called " the Oven," 
 and the chapel itself, " Whitefield's Soul-Trap." This enlargement is said 
 to have been aided by Queen Caroline, consort of George II., who see- 
 ing a crowd at the door unable to obtain admission, observed it was a 
 pity that so many good people should stand in the cold, and accordingly 
 sent Whitefield a sum of money to enlarge the chapel ; it was called " the 
 Dissenters' Cathedral." Whitefield died in America ; and in 1770, John 
 Wesley preached here his funeral sermon. In August, 1787, the Rev. 
 Dr. Pickwell, rector of Bloxham-cum-Digby, Lincolnshire, preached 
 his own funeral sermon in this chapel: he had pricked his finger in 
 opening the body of a person who had died of consumption, and the 
 wound proved fatal by mortification in ten days afterwards. Attached 
 to the chapel is a burial-ground, the mould for which is stated to have 
 been brought from the churchyard of St. Christopher-le- Stocks, in 
 1780, by which the consecration fees were saved. In 1828, White- 
 field's lease expired, and the chapel was closed until 1830, when it was 
 
178 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 purchased by trustees for 20,000/., and altered at a great cost, the ex- 
 terior being coated with stucco. It is 126 feet by 76 feet, and 112 feet 
 high to the crown of the dome; it is well adapted for hearing, the 
 octagonal portion serving as a kind of funnel or trumpet to the voice ; 
 it will seat from 7000 to 8000 persons. In 1834, the trial of a long- 
 pending Chancery suit respecting this chapel occupied between three 
 and four days. Here are monuments to Whitefield, the founder ; to 
 Toplady, the zealous Calvinistic controversialist with John Wesley; 
 and to John Bacon, the sculptor, who wrote his own epitaph, as follows : 
 
 " What I was as an Artist 
 Seemed to me of some importance while I lived ; 
 
 But what I really was as a Believer 
 Is the only thing of importance to me now." 
 
 The chapel is now occupied by Independents. 
 
 ZOAR CHAPEL, in Zoar-street, leading from Gravel-lane to Essex- 
 street, Southwark, is the meeting-house in which the celebrated John 
 Bunyan was allowed to preach, by favour of his friend, Dr. Thomas 
 Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln, to whom it belonged; and if only one 
 day's notice were given, the place would not contain half the people 
 that attended. 3000 persons have been gathered together there, and 
 not less than 1200 on week-days and dark winter mornings at seven 
 o'clock. There is a print of this chapel in Wilkinson's Londina Illus- 
 trata, and a woodcut vignette of it in Dr. Cheever's Memoir of Bunyan, 
 prefixed to the Pilgrim's Progress (Bogue, 1850). The chapel was 
 used as a wheelwright's shop prior to its being pulled down, when the 
 pulpit in which Bunyan had preached was removed to the Methodist 
 Chapel, Palace-yard, Lambeth. Another " true pulpit" is shewn in 
 Jewin-street Chapel, Alder sgate-street. Bunyan's Pulpit Bible was 
 purchased by Mr. Whitbread, M.P., at the sale of the library of the Rev. 
 S. Palmer, at Hackney, in 1813. 
 
 FRIENDS' OR QUAKERS' MEETING-HOUSES. 
 
 There are six Friends' Meeting-houses in the metropolis : 1. Dev 
 shire House (Houndsditch) ; 2. Gracechurch-street (White-Hart-court 
 3. Peel (Peel-court, John-street, Smithfield); 4. Ratcliffe (Brook-street 
 5. Southwark (Redcross-street); 6. Westminster (Peter's-court, St. Mar- 
 tin's-lane). The first established was that in White-Hart-court. 
 
 " The Yearly Meeting of the Society of Friends is held in London, opening 
 always on a Wednesday in the latter end of May, and continuing into the month 
 of June, generally lasting about ten days or a fortnight. Of course it is the most 
 important event in their religious system, the most interesting season in their 
 year. To this Great Meeting the business of all their lesser meetings points, and 
 is here consummated. To it delegates are sent from every quarter of the island; 
 by it committees are appointed to receive appeals against the decisions of minor 
 meetings, to carry every object which is deemed desirable, within their body or 
 beyond it, into effect ; by it Parliament is petitioned ; the Crown addressed ; reli- 
 gious ministers are sanctioned in their schemes of foreign travel, or those schemes 
 restrained ; and funds are received and appropriated for the prosecution of all 
 their views as a society. The City is their place of resort ; and the Yearly Meeting 
 is held in Devonshire House. 
 
 "The mingling of plain coats, broad hats, friendly shawls, and friendly bon- 
 nets, in the great human stream that ever rolls along the paves of the City, is in 
 that neighbourhood, at this season, become very predominant. Bishopsgate 
 Within and Bishopsgate Without, Gracechurch-street, Houndsditch, Liverpool- 
 street, Old Broad-street, Sun-street, almost every street of that district, fairly 
 swarms with Friends. The inns and private lodgings are full of them. The White 
 Hart and the Four Swans are full of them. They have a table-d'hote, at which 
 they generally breakfast and dine. Every Friend's house at this time has its 
 guest ; and many of the wealthy keep a sort of open house. 
 
 " At a Friends' Meeting, the men are sitting all on one side by themselves, with 
 
 . 
 
 rt); 
 et); 
 
GREEK CHURCH. JEWS' SYNAGOGUES. 179 
 
 heir hats on, and presenting a very dark and sombre mass ; the women sitting 
 ogether on the other, as light and attractive. In the seats below the gallery are 
 itting many weighty friends, men and women, still apart; and in the gallery a 
 ong row of preachers, male and female, perhaps twenty or thirty in number, 
 f ou may safely count on a succession of sermons or prayers. Men and women 
 .rise, one after another, and preach in a variety of styles, but all peculiar to 
 ?riends. Suddenly a man-minister takes off his hat, or a woman-minister takes 
 iff her bonnet ; he or she drops quietly on the bass before them ; at the sight the 
 rhole meeting rises, and remains on its feet while the minister enters into 'sup- 
 ilication.' Most singular, striking, and picturesque are often the sermons you 
 tear." William Ho wit t. 
 
 GREEK CHURCH. 
 
 GREEK CHURCH, London "Wall, the first ecclesiastical structure 
 srected by the Greek residents in London, was opened in 1850, on Sun- 
 lay, Jan. 6, o.s., and in the Greek Kalendar, Christmas-day. The 
 sdifice is Byzantine, (from Byzantium, the capital of the Lower Greek 
 Empire,) with Italian interior details. The north front has three 
 lorse-shoe arches fringed, apd Byzantine columns, between which are 
 ,he entrance-doorways ; and in the upper story is a similar arcade, con- 
 aining three windows: above is this inscription, in Greek characters: 
 
 " During the reign of the august Victoria, who governs the great people of 
 Iritain, and also other nations scattered over the earth, the Greeks sojourning 
 ,ere erected this church to the Divine Saviour, in veneration of the rights of their 
 ithers." 
 
 \Jbove is a pediment surmounted with a cross. In plan, the church 
 s a cross of equal parts ; the ceiling is domed in the centre : on the 
 lorth and south sides are galleries, with flower-ornamented fronts, 
 ind supported on decorated arches and pillars, with fine capitals. The 
 iltar-screen has these panel pictures, painted in Russia : the Annun- 
 iation ; the Virgin holding the infant Jesus ; Jesus sitting on a throne ; 
 ,nd St. John the Baptist. In a centre panel is inscribed, in Greek : 
 
 " O Lord, the strength of those who trust in Thee, uphold the Church which 
 !"hou hast redeemed with Thy precious blood." 
 
 Within the iconostasis, or screen, is the altar in "the holy place," 
 lymbolic of the Holy of Holies in the Jewish ritual. A magnificent 
 :handelier, with wax-lights, is suspended from the ceiling. The con- 
 gregation stand during the whole service; but there are seats made to 
 iurn up, as in our cathedral stalls ; and knobs are placed on the upper 
 irms, to serve as rests. The officiating priest is richly robed, and at- 
 ;ended by boys bearing a wax taper, each in a surplice with a blue 
 jross on the back. Upon the high altar is placed a large crucifix, can- 
 lelabra with lights, &c. At a portion of the Mass, a curtain is drawn 
 jefore the altar, whilst the priest silently and alone prays for the sanc- 
 ;ification of the Sacrament ; he then re-appears, " bids peace to all the 
 people," and blesses them. The sermon is preached in the pulpit, the 
 priest wearing a black robe and a black hat; this is covered with the 
 Xwr<r ? , or veil, to indicate that the wearer is under the influence of 
 :he Gospel. The church at London Wall (designed by T. E. Owen, 
 jf Portsmouth,) cost about 10,OOOZ. ; yet the number of Greek residents 
 it the date of its opening, in 1850, did not exceed 220. 
 
 JEWS' SYNAGOGUES. 
 
 The NEW SYNAGOGUE, in Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, was built 
 )y Davies, in 1838. It is in rich Italian style, with an open loggia of 
 hree arches resting upon Tuscan columns. The sides have Doric piers, 
 ind Corinthian columns above, behind which are ladies' galleries, fronted 
 vith rich brasswork. There are no pews; the centre floor has a plat- 
 
180 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 form, and seats for the principal officers, with four large brass-gilt 
 candelabra. 
 
 At the south end is the Ark, a lofty semicircular-domed recess, consisting of 
 Italian Doric pilasters, with verde antico, and porphyry shafts, and gilt capitals; 
 and Corinthian columns, with sienna shafts, and capitals and entablature in white 
 and gold. In the upper story the intercolumns are filled with three arched win- 
 dows of stained glass, arabesque pattern, by Nixon ; the centre one having 
 Jehovah, in Hebrew, and the Tables of the Law. The semi-dome is decorated 
 with gilded rosettes on an azure ground; there are rich festoons of fruit and 
 flowers between the capitals of the Corinthian columns, and ornaments on the 
 frieze above, on which is inscribed in Hebrew, "Know in whose presence thou 
 tandest." The centre of the lower part is fitted up with recesses for Books of 
 the Law, enclosed with polished mahogany doors, and partly concealed by a rich 
 velvet curtain fringed with gold ; there are massive gilt candelabra ; and the pave- 
 ment and steps to the Ark are of fine veined Italian marble, partly carpeted. Ex- 
 ternally, the Ark is flanked with an arched panel; that on'the east containing a : 
 prayer for the Queen and Royal Family in Hebrew, and the 'other a similar one 
 in English. Above the Ark is a rich fan-painted window, and a corresponding 
 one, though less brilliant, at the north end. The ceiling, which; is-flat, is deco-! 
 rated with thirty coffers, each containing a large flower aperture for ventilation. 
 
 This congregation had been previously established about eighty years < 
 in Leadenhall-street, and there known as the " New Synagogue." 
 
 The WEST LONDON SYNAGOGUE, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, 
 designed by D. Mocatta, was completed in 1850. It is square in plan, 
 and consists of Ionic columns supporting the ladies' gallery, whence rise 
 other columns, receiving semicircular arches, crowned by a bold cornice 
 and lantern -light. The Ark composes cleverly with the semicircular 
 arches, which hang as pendants before it, and complete the fourth side < 
 of the building ; the steps, platform, stylobate, and columns, are all of j 
 scagliola, surmounted by a decorated entablature, which supports a 
 niche-head, in which are placed the tablets of the Ten Commandments, 
 surrounded and shadowed by the palm-leaf. 
 
 There are in London other Synagogues : the chief one, the German, is in 
 Duke's-place, Houndsditch, in the midst of the Jewish population. The Sabbath I 
 commences at sunset on Friday, when the Synagogue is opened; and again at ten 
 o'clock on Saturday morning. The singing, handed down from the temple ser- 
 vice, and the chanting of the Law, said to be the manner in which it was revealed 
 to Moses, is interesting. The Jews, and the officers in attendance, are most kind! 
 and polite to strangers. The interest of the visit is enhanced by procuring a 
 Jewish prayer-book, with the English translation on the opposite page. Strangers 
 are reminded not to take off their hats as they enter : it is an abomination to the 
 Jews, who worship with their heads covered. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 In London alone, exclusive of the surrounding episcopal district, 
 there are about 200,000 Roman Catholics. This is, however, to some 
 extent a floating population ; the Irish immigrants often leaving Lon- 
 don for work. About twenty years ago, the Roman Catholics num- 
 bered half as many : the number of their chapels in London was then 
 twenty -four; it is now fifty. There was not then a single convent or 
 religious house ; there are now seventeen for nuns, and two for reli- 
 gious men ; thirty-seven charity-schools, and four orphan-asylums. 
 In the whole London District are 104 Roman Catholic Churches and 
 Chapels, with 168 Priests on duty, nine for the urban flocks. The ser- 
 vices are more or less the counterpart of each other ; and it is merely in 
 the eloquence of their preachers, or in their music and church-furni- 
 ture, that the Churches and Chapels differ. 
 
 AMBASSADORS' CHAPELS: Spanish Place Chapel is attended by the 
 members of the Spanish Embassy ; Warwick-street, Golden-square, by 
 the Bavarian Embassy (the former Chapel was destroyed in the Riots 
 
ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 181 
 
 of 1780) ; Duke-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, by the Sardinian ; and Little 
 George-street, King-street, Portman-square, by the French. Here the 
 Comte de Paris received his first communion, in 1850. Celebrated 
 foreign preachers are occasionally heard here, chiefly in Lent ; as Martin, 
 Kavignan, Lacordaire, &c. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, St. George's Fields, nearly facing the east- 
 ern wing of Bethlem Hospital, is built upon the site of the focus of the 
 "No Popery" Riots of 1780, and is the largest Roman Catholic church 
 erected in England since the Reformation ; and with the quaint conven- 
 tual buildings (priests' houses and schools, and a convent for Sisters of 
 Mercy) at the north end, was designed by A. W. Pugin. The church is 
 a high example of .Roman Catholic symbolic details : it is in the Decor- 
 ated style, (temp. Edward III.,) is cruciform in plan, and consists of a 
 nave and aisles, chancel, and two chapels; arid a tower at the north- 
 west end, to be surmounted by a rich hexagonal spire, 320 feet high. 
 
 The church is about 235 feet in length, and will seat 3000 persons. It is lit by 
 traceried windows, some filled with stained glass, by Wailes of Newcastle; the 
 great chancel-window was given by John Earl of Shrewsbury, and represents 
 the root of Jesse, or genealogy of our Lord. The large window over the principal 
 entrance, in the great tower, has figures of St. George, St. Michael, and other 
 saints. There is no clerestory, but each roof is gabled ; slender pillars and arches 
 divide the nave and side aisles, in which are confessionals ; and between the nave 
 and chancel is a double stone screen bearing a rood-loft, with a crucifix of Belgian 
 fifteenth-century work, and images of the Virgin and St. John, nearly life-size, 
 and coloured. The chancel is panelled with oak, with crocketed arches round 
 the sanctuary ; the high altar has bas-reliefs of the Transfiguration, Resurrection, 
 and Ascension ; the tabernacle is richly dight and painted, the metal doors being 
 chased and gilt, and studded with large crystals. Behind the altar is an elabo- 
 rately-carved stone reredos, with niches filled with images of angels, and the 
 Saints Peter and Paul. The high altar furniture is very superb and massive ; the 
 chancel is floored with encaustic tiles ; and the chapels are superbly decorated in 
 gold and colour. In the baptistery is an octagonal stone font, with sculpture and 
 Gothic panelling. Outside the church, between two confessionals, is a Perpen- 
 dicular chantry to the late Hon. Edmund Petre, for the repose of whose soul 
 Mass is offered herein daily; this being the first foundation for the support of the 
 church. " The Adorable Presence is day and nigtit in the Chapel of the Blessed 
 Sacrament. Look for the red light ; it is there." 
 
 St. George's was opened with great pomp, July 4, 1848 ; and was 
 the scene of the solemn enthronisation of Cardinal "Wiseman, Arch- 
 bishop of Westminster, Dec. 6, 1850. The cost of this church to July 
 1848 had been 38,000f. 
 
 IMMACULATE CONCEPTION CHURCH, Farm-street, Berkeley-square, 
 designed by Scoles, and built at the expense of Jesuits, is the first ever 
 possessed by the Order in London : it was opened 1849. The style is the 
 Decorated, the south front much resembling that of Beauvais Cathe- 
 dral. The altar and organ-loft windows are filled with brilliant stained 
 glass : the rose in the latter is very elegant ; and each of the 22 flank 
 windows has different tracery. The interior is large and lofty, and has 
 no aisles or rood-screen : the high altar, designed by A. W. Pugin, cost 
 about 1000J., and was presented by Miss Monica Tempest, of Broughton 
 Hall, Yorkshire ; and her brother, Sir Charles Tempest, presented the 
 Missal, which cost about 501. " Confraternities of the Bona Mors, of 
 the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, are 
 established in this church." The services are performed by Jesuits. 
 
 " Roman Catholic churches seem to be distinguished from those of the 
 national faith, at present, only by the occupation of niches that in the latter 
 would be left vacant. It is remarkable, however, that they all seem to affect the 
 style of one period, viz. the first half of the fourteenth century, their designei s 
 apparently disdaining the representation of either an immature or a declining fui'n 
 of art; but fixing always on the fully developed Gothic, just at the turning poiut 
 of its career." Companion to the Almanac, 1851. 
 
182 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST'S, Duncan-terrace, Islington, was opened 
 in 1843. It was designed by Scoles, in the Anglo-Norman style, and 
 has an eastern gable, flanked by two spires, each 130 feet high. Under 
 the chancel is a crypt, or mortuary chapel; and adjoining is a spacious 
 cemetery. This church has a Holy Guild attached : the Rev. F. Oakeley 
 (late of "Margaret-street Chapel) officiates. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Moorfields, corner of East-street, Finsbury Circus, 
 opened in 1820, has an embellished entrance facade, in the pediment of 
 which are sculptured two figures kneeling at the Cross. The interior 
 is very superb : the semicircular altar-wall, behind a screen of marble 
 columns, has a large painting of the Crucifixion, by Aglio, an Italian 
 artist ; it is called fresco, but is mezzo-fresco (begun upon wet plaster, 
 and finished with tempera ; but is very perishable).* This great scenic 
 picture is effectively illumined by a subdued light from the roof, and has 
 the touching aspect of life and reality. On the ceiling are painted the 
 Virgin Mary, the Infant Jesus, the four Evangelists, and scenes from 
 events in the life of the Saviour. The sacramental plate was presented 
 by Pope Pius VIL Carl Maria von "Weber was buried in the vaults of 
 this Chapel, June 21, 3826; but his remains have since been removed 
 to the Catholic churchyard in the Friederichstadt, Dresden. 
 
 ORATORY OF ST. PHILIP NERI, King- William -street, Strand, was 
 originally an Assembly Room ; here the Rev. F. W. Faber, author of 
 the Cherwell Water-Lily, and other poems, preached (in 1850) to a large 
 and deeply-moved audience. 
 
 OUR LADY'S, Grove-End-road, St. John's "Wood, designed by Scoles, 
 1834, was built and endowed by two ladies, the Misses Gallini. The 
 site formerly belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, (whence 
 St. John's Wood,) whose predecessors, the Knights Templar, held the 
 same estate ; and built the Temple Church, the prototype of the pre- 
 sent cross church, which is Early Pointed, 13th century. The western 
 front, with its three gables and crosses, Catherine-wheel and lancet 
 windows, and pinnacled turrets, is a fine composition. The gables of the 
 north and south fronts are surmounted with canopied niches, contain- 
 ing sculptured groupes of the Madonna and Child; and the east front 
 has a large window filled with stained glass. The interior has acutely- 
 arched and richly-bossed roofs, springing from slender shafts ; and the 
 high altar is backed by a rich oaken screen. In the schools are edu- 
 cated and clothed, gratuitously, 300 poor children. 
 
 ST. PATRICK'S, Sutton-street, Soho, is much frequented by the poo,r 
 Catholic population of St. Giles's. The festival of St. Patrick (March 
 17) is observed here as a double of the first class, with High Mass. 
 
 SARDINIAN CHAPEL (the), Duke-street, Lincoln 's-Inn-fields, is the 
 oldest of the metropolitan places of worship now in the hands of the 
 Roman Catholics of London. It was built in the year before King 
 Charles was beheaded : that is, in 1648, just at the close of the Great 
 Rebellion, and the practical commencement of Oliver Cromwell's 
 rule. During the existence of the penal laws, the only entrance to the 
 chapel was through the Sardinian Ambassador's house, in Lincoln's- 
 Inn-fields. The Riots of 1780 commenced with the partial demoli- 
 tion of this building : the mob were especially savage in attacking it, it 
 being the mother-chapel, the oldest in London, and at that time the 
 resort of all the leading Roman Catholics. In derision of their worship, 
 a cat was dressed in the miniature vestments of a priest, an imitative 
 host or wafer was placed in its paws, and thus it was hung to the lamp- 
 
 * Eugenio Latilla on Fresco, &c., 1842. The above specimen has been un- 
 fairly referred to as an evidence of the failure of fresco-painting in this country. 
 
CITY. 183 
 
 post of the chapel. This edifice was rebuilt after the Riots, and was 
 enlarged by adding to it at the west end the Ambassador's stables. It 
 has some painted glass, a finely-toned organ, and splendid church-plate, 
 used only on solemn festivals : the altar-furniture was presented by 
 the late King of Sardinia, and cost 1000 guineas ; and the painting 
 over the altar, "the Taking down from the Cross," is valued at 700J. 
 The choir was formerly maintained at a great expense ; though on Whit- 
 sunday, during Dr. Baldaconi's chief chaplaincy, Malibran, Persiani, 
 Lablache, and Rubini, and the principals of the Italian Opera orches- 
 tra, gave their aid gratuitously. The choir is now scarcely above 
 mediocrity ; but the services are conducted with great solemnity. All 
 Saints' day (Nov. 1) is one of the best in the year on which to witness 
 the splendour of the worship. About twenty years ago the district of 
 the chapel extended to Islington, and the congregation numbered about 
 12,000 souls. This district has been much diminished by the building 
 of other chapels ; but the Sardinian congregation is much larger 
 about 15,000. There are four resident priests, one expressly for the 
 Italians. The Savoyard organ-boys much resort here. 
 
 Sunday Services: Low Mass at 7, 8, 9, and 10, with a short discourse at 7 and 
 9. High Mass and sermon at 11. Vespers at 3. Service in Italian at 4. Evening 
 service and sermon at 7. Week-days: Mass at 8, 9, and 10. Wednesday evening, 
 English Prayers and Benediction. On Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the 
 Rosary and English prayers immediately after 10-o'clock Mass. The Chaplains 
 attend the Confessionals every morning from 8 till 11 ; and on Wednesday, Friday, 
 and Saturday evenings from 6 till 10, or later, if required. Each Roman Catholic 
 has a right to be visited when sick ; and the priest must in duty attend, however 
 dangerous and infectious the case. 
 
 SPANISH CHAPEL, Spanish-place, Manchester-square, was built, in 
 1797, by Joseph Bonomi, and enlarged in 1846, when a picturesque 
 campanile, 70 feet high, was added by C. Parker : its interior is a Lady 
 Chapel, and forms a second south aisle. The chapel is lighted from 
 the roof with a most captivating effect of architectural chiaroscuro, and 
 is divided by Corinthian columns. 
 
 The two RELIGIOUS HOUSES (of men) are at the Hyde and at Clap- 
 ham, and belong respectively to the Orders of Passionists and Re- 
 demptorists ; of the former, or the Order of St. Philip Neri, the Rev. 
 J. H. Newman, though stationed at Birmingham, is " Provincial." 
 Both houses are largely recruited with recent converts. 
 
 CITY (THE). 
 
 Nearly in the centre of what is strictly the City of London stands 
 the centre or dome of St. Paul's Cathedral ; latitude 51 30' 47'59 ', 
 longitude 5' 48'2" west of Greenwich, which is 51 28' 38'07" latitude. 
 The whole area is 600 acres. London Bridge is held to be within the 
 City, together with a plot of ground at the Surrey-end, called the 
 Bridge-foot. 
 
 " Few unacquainted with the locality would imagine that within the confines 
 of the Poultry, Cornhill, Threadneedle-street, Lombard-street, Lothbury, and 
 Broad-street, the vast amount of the commerce of England may be said to be 
 transacted ; or that the dingy counting-houses discoverable every where in the 
 nooks and corners of the intersecting thoroughfares are occupied by our first 
 merchants and traders, many of whom hold foreign Governments as heavy and 
 responsible creditors. Many are, of course, aware that the Stock markets are for 
 bargains in money securities, that 'Change is the great mart of the merchant, 
 that Lloyd's is most particularly identified with the shipping interest, and that 
 the Jerusalem and the North and South American Coffee-houses are places where 
 traders and captains meet each other." The City, Preface, p. vii. 
 
 The bustle of City life begins at nine and ten a.m., and concludes 
 between six and seven p.m. ; at other hours the streets and courts pre* 
 
184 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sent one vast blank. 'Change, Broad-street, Bartholomew-lane, Lom- 
 bard-street, Throgmorton-street, and all the great City thoroughfares, 
 are then deserted ; and at eight p.m. the stillness of death reigns over 
 these once busy haunts. Thus far " the City" commercially. Formerly 
 it was the merchant's residence. . 
 
 " Those mansions of the great old burghers which still exist have been turned 
 into counting-houses and warehouses; but it is evident that they were originally 
 not inferior in magnificence to the dwellings which were then inhabited by the 
 nobility. .They sometimes stand in retired and gloomy courts, and are accessible 
 only by inconvenient passages ; but their dimensions are ample, and their aspect 
 stately. 'J he entrances are decorated with richly carved pillars and canopies. 
 The staircases and landing-places are not wanting in grandeur. The floors are 
 sometimes of wrod, tesselated after the fashion of France. The palace of Sir 
 Robert Clayton, in the Old Jewry, contained a superb banquetting-room wains- 
 coted with cedar, and adorned with battles of gods and giants in fresco. Sir Dud- 
 ley North expended 4000/., a sum which would have been important to a duke, 
 on the rich furniture of his reception-rooms in Basinghall-street. In such abodes, 
 under the last Stuarts, the heads of the great firms lived splendidly and hospit- 
 ably. To their dwelling-place they were bound by the strongest ties of interest 
 and affection. There they had passed their youth and had made their friend- 
 ships, had courted their wives, had seen their children grow up, had laid the 
 remains of their parents in the earth, and expected that their own remains would 
 be laid. That intense patriotism which is peculiar to the members of societies 
 congregated within a narrow space was in such circumstances strongly developed. 
 London was to the Londoner what Athens was to the Athenian of the age of Peri- 
 cles, what Florence was to the Florentine of the fifteenth century. The citizen was 
 proud of the grandeur of his city, punctilious about her claims to respect, ambitious 
 of her offices, and zealous for her franchises.'' Macaulay's History of England. 
 
 " The City," says Addison, " has always been the province for satire, 
 and the wits of King Charles's time jested upon nothing else during his 
 whole reign." 
 
 CITY WALL AND GATES. 
 
 The City "Wall is believed to have been a work of the later Roman 
 period, when London was not unfrequently exposed to hostile attacks. 
 Its direct course was as follows: Beginning at a fort on part of the 
 site of the present Tower of London, the line was continued by the 
 Minories, between Poor-Jury-lane and the Vineyard, to Aid-gate. 
 Thence, forming a curve to the north-west, between Shoemaker-row, 
 Bevis-marks, and Honndsditch, it abutted on Bishop' s-gate, from which 
 it extended nearly in a straight line, through Bishopsgate churchyard, 
 and behind Bethlem Hospital and Fore-street, to Cripple-gate. At a 
 short distance further, it turned southward, by the back of Hart-street 
 and Cripplegate churchyard; and thence, continuing between Monk- 
 well-street and Castle-"street, led by the back of Barber- Surgeons' 
 Hall and Noble-street to Dolphin-court, opposite Oat-lane, where, 
 turning westerly, it approached Alders' -gate. Proceeding hence, to- 
 wards the south-west, it curved along the back of St. Botolph's 
 churchyard, Christ's Hospital, and Old New-gate, from which it con- 
 tinued southward to Lud-gate, passing at the back of the College of 
 Physicians, Warwick-square, Stationers' Hall, and the London Coffee- 
 house, on Ludgate-hill. From Ludgate it proceeded westerly by Cock- 
 court to Little Bridge - street, where, turning south, it skirted the 
 Fleet-Brook to the Thames, near which it was guarded by another 
 fort. The circuit of the whole line, according to Stow, was two miles 
 and c:ie furlong nearly. Another wall, defended by towers, extended 
 the whole distance along the banks of the Thames between the two 
 forts. The walls were defended by strong towers and bastions; the 
 remains of three of which, of Roman masonry, were, in Maitland's 
 time, to be seen in. the vicinity of Houndsditch and Aldgate. The 
 height of the perfect wall is considered to have been 22 feet, and that of 
 
CITY WALL AND GATES. 185 
 
 the towers 40 feet. The superficial contents of the ground within the 
 walls has been computed at 380 acres. 
 
 The following course of the Wall is shewn in a plan drawn by order 
 of the Corporation of London, to ascertain the extent of the Great Fire 
 of 1666, and now preserved in the Comptroller's Office, Guildhall. It 
 may be distinctly traced as the southern boundary of the churchyard of 
 St. Botolph, at the back of Bull-and-Mouth Street. Hence it proceeded 
 due east, across Aldersgate- street, to Aldersgate, whence it continued, 
 in the same direction perhaps, about 200 feet, where it formed an angle, 
 and had a curious bastion. It then went rather to the north-north-east 
 of Falcon- square, eastward of Castle-street, where it is now standing, 
 externally incorporated with the walls of the houses; and in their cellars 
 it is still to be traced, the stone being very smooth, massive, and per- 
 fect ; thence it proceeds, and exhibits large remains in the churchyard 
 of St. Giles, Cripplegate. 
 
 " The latter, including a bastion, are the most perfect relics. The base of the 
 Wall is composed of small rough flints, to the height of one foot six inches, resting 
 on a fine loam, upon which are placed four feet six inches of rough Kentish rag- 
 stone (the green sandstone of geologists), with pieces of ferruginous sandstone 
 irregularly interposed. Then come two courses of bricks, each measuring eighteen 
 inches by twelve, and one and three-quarters thick, on which is laid more of the 
 ragstone for two feet six inches ; again a double course of tiles, and above that one 
 foot six inches of the ragstone. Total existing height, nineteen feet seven inches. 
 It is nine feet six inches in width at the base, and two feet at the top." Mr. 
 Saull, F.G.S. 
 
 In the Sutherland View, 1543, and in Tapperell and Innes's large 
 Map, the Great Wall is seen entire, with its embrasures, its large arid 
 lofty gates, and intervening towers. These gates are minutely described 
 by Stow. Chamberlayne, in his Magnce Britannice Notitia, 1726, says : 
 " Most of the gates of that old Wall still remain : those which were 
 burnt down at Ludgate and Newgate are rebuilt with great solidity and 
 magnificence; and those which escaped, as Aldersgate, Cripplegate, 
 Moorgate, Aldgate, are kept in good repair, and are shut up at every 
 night, with great diligence and a sufficient watch, at ten o'clock ; none 
 being suffered to go in or out without examination. Most of these gates 
 are of good architecture, and adorned with statues of some of our kings 
 and queens ; as is that, likewise, called Temple Bar, in Fleet-street, near 
 the Middle Temple Gate." The Gates, except the latter, were taken 
 down 1760-62 : a statue of Queen Elizabeth, from Ludgate, is now 
 placed on the outer wall of the church of St. Dunstan in the West ; 
 and the statues of Lud and his sons, from the same gate, are in the 
 grounds of St. Dunstan's Villa, Regent's Park (the Marquis of Hert- 
 ford's). These statues were supposed by Flaxman to have preserved 
 the likeness of the originals, as copies, or possibly liberal restorations, 
 of the actual figures. (Archer's Vestiges of Old London, Part IV., 
 with six views.) Four of the figures from Newgate are in the south 
 front of the present prison of that name. 
 
 The City of London, properly so called, consists of that part anciently within 
 the Walls, together with that termed the Liberties, which immediately surrounded 
 them. The Liberties are encompassed by the Line of Separation, the boundary 
 between them and the county of Middlesex ; and marked by the Bars, which for- 
 merly consisted of posts and chains, but are now denoted by lofty stone obelisks, 
 bearing the City arms, which may be seen, eastward, in Whitechapel, the Minories, 
 and Bishopsgate-street ; northward, in Gos well-street, at the end of Fan-alley, and 
 in St. John's-street ; and westward, at Middle-row, Holborn ; while at the western 
 end of Fleet-street the boundary is the stone gateway called Temple Bar. G. J. 
 Aungicr. 
 
 See also a Comparative Plan of that part of the City of London which was de- 
 istroyed by the Great Fire in 1666, and its altered condition in 1849, by Francis 
 Whishaw, C.E. ; wherein old London is shewn by strong lines, and modern London 
 by dotted lines. 
 
186 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 CLEARING-HOUSE (THE), 
 
 In Lombard-street, and opposite the Foreign Post-Office, is an estab- 
 lishment in which the majority of the private bankers clear, or settle, 
 the accounts they have with one another. The room is fitted up with 
 desks for each of the clearing bankers, whose names, taking the first 
 of each firm, are arranged in alphabetical order over each desk : the 
 rapidity with which the charges are required to be entered just before 
 four o'clock, when the day's clearance closes, and the excitement which 
 is created by their swift distribution through the room, are difficult to 
 be conceived ; and then the value of the alphabetical arrangement of 
 the clearer's desk is best seen. 
 
 In "The City; or the Physiology of London Business," 2d edit. 
 1848, it is related that the origiu of the Clearing-house was a post at 
 the corner of Birchin-lane and Lombard-street, near Overend, Gurney, 
 and Co.'s, the great bill-discounters, where two or three of the clerks 
 of banking-houses met for years to furnish each other with the memo- 
 randa of their accounts. 
 
 CLERKENWELL. 
 
 A large parish north-east of High Holborn, and named from a well 
 around which the parish clerks, or clerken, were wont to assemble to 
 act Scripture plays. The whole district was originally a village, which 
 grew up around the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, north, and the 
 Nunnery of St. Mary, south, of what is now Clerkenwell-green. It was 
 then a succession of gentle pastures and slopes, with the " River of 
 "Wells," or "Fleet," flowing between two hills on its western border: 
 and its rural character is kept in mind by its Coppice and Wilderness 
 rows, Saffron-hill, Vineyard-gardens, Field-lane, Clerkenwell-green, 
 and Cow-cross; whilst Turnmill- street recals the "noise of the water- 
 wheels " mentioned by Fitzstephen in 1190. In the Sutherland View of 
 London, 1543, we see" St. John's with a lofty spire, with trees extend- 
 ing to St. Bartholomew's, Smithfield ; and westward the village green 
 and St. James's Church, formerly of St. Mary's Nunnery, and then just 
 made parochial. The nave, aisles, and bell-tower of St. John's were, 
 however, pulled down to supply materials for building the proud Pro- 
 tector Somerset's palace. Aggas's map, in 1563, shews us a few houses 
 bounded on three sides by little else than fields. By 1617, however, a 
 number of fine houses had been built in the district, and were inhabited 
 by persons of note. Hence to the village of Islington lay through 
 green fields and country paths; and so lately as 1780, " persons walking 
 from the City to Islington in the evening, waited near the end of St. 
 John's-street, in what is now termed Northampton -street (but was 
 then a rural avenue planted with trees, called Wood's Close), until a 
 sufficient party had collected, who were then escorted by an armed 
 patrol." (Storer and Cromwell's Clerkenwell.) The whole locality is 
 covered with crowded streets. Here is still a large house, once the 
 town residence of the Northampton family, the garden-ground of which 
 is now Northampton-square ; and Compton, Perceval, Spencer, Wyn- 
 yate, and Ashby streets are named from the titles of the Marquis of 
 Northampton, the principal ground-landlord of the district. 
 
 Passing to olden Clerkenwell, the Priory -gate of St. John has been 
 transformed into a public-house ; and the Square, once part of the 
 Priory precincts, and afterwards the residence of the titled and wealthy, 
 is now mostly tenanted by watchmakers and jewellers : in this Square 
 died Bishop Burnet. Jerusalem-passage leads to Aylesbury-street, be- 
 tween which and St. John's Church stood the town-house of the Earl 
 of Aylesbury, in the reign of Charles II. At the corner of Jerusalem- 
 passage and Aylesbury-street, Thomas Britton, the "musical small- 
 
CLERKENWELL. 187 
 
 coal man," held his music-meetings from 1678 to 1714, in a low and 
 narrow room over the coal-shop,, to which all the fashion of the age 
 flocked ; Britton himself playing in the orchestra the viol di gamba. 
 In Woodbridge-street, branching from Aylesbury-street, was the cele- 
 brated Red Bull Theatre, conjectured to have been originally an inn- 
 yard, used for performance late in 'the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and 
 'where the king's players under Killigrew acted until they removed to 
 Drury-lane. At the Red Bull, women first acted on the English stage: 
 its site is probably now occupied by part of a distillery. St. James's 
 Church was rebuilt in 1788 as we now see it. The Nunnery Close 
 became Clerkenwell-close, on the east side of which was Newcastle 
 House, built by the Earl of Newcastle, and where the eccentric literary 
 Duchess Margaret held a sort of academic court for many years after 
 the Restoration. " Of all the riders of Pegasus," says Walpole, " there 
 'have not been a more fantastic couple than his Grace and his faithful 
 Duchess, who was never off her pillion." Pepys notes a visit of Charles 
 II. to her Grace at Newcastle House, in April 1667. 
 
 Another eccentric inhabitant 'of Newcastle House was Elizabeth Duchess of 
 Albemarle, and afterwards of Montague. She was married in 1669 to Chris- 
 topher Monck, second Duke of Albemarle, then a youth of 16, whom her in- 
 ordinate pride drove to the bottle and other dissipation. After his death, in. 
 1688, at Jamaica, the Duchess, whose vast estate so inflated her vanity as to 
 produce mental aberration, resolved never again to give her hand to any but a 
 sovereign prince. She had many suitors ; but true to her resolution, she rejected 
 them all, until Ralph Montague, third Lord and first Duke of that name, achieved 
 the conquest by courting her as Emperor of China : and the anecdote has been 
 dramatised by Colley Cibber, in his comedy of " The Double Gallant, or Sick 
 Lady's Cure." Lord Montague married the lady .as " Emperor," but afterwards 
 played the truant, and kept her in such strict confinement, that her relations com- 
 pelled him to produce her in open court, to prove that she was alive, Richard 
 'Lord Ross, one of her rejected suitors, addressed to Lord Montague on his match: 
 " Insulting rival, never boast From one that's under Bedlam's laws 
 
 Thy conquest lately won ; What glory can be had ? 
 
 No wonder that her heart was lost, For love of thee was not the cause : 
 
 Her senses first were gone. It proves that she was mad." 
 
 The Duchess survived her second husband nearly thirty years, and at last "died 
 of mere old age," at Newcastle House, August 28, 1738, aged 96 years. Until her 
 decease, she is said to have been constantly served on the knee as a sovereign, 
 
 On the east side of the Close stood a large house, by unauthorised tra- 
 dition said to have been inhabited by Oliver Cromwell ; but Crom- 
 well-place, built upon the house-site, has been named from this story. 
 Another inhabitant of the Close was Weever, the antiquary, who dates 
 the Epistle to the first edition of his "Ancient Funerall Monuments" 
 from his " House in Clerkenwell-close," May 28, 1631 : he died in the 
 next year, and was buried in old St. James's Church. On Clerken- 
 well-green is the Middlesex Sessions-House (Rogers, architect), built in 
 1779-82 : it has a handsome east front, and a large hall, with a lofty 
 dome. Here the County Sittings were removed from" Hicks's Hall," in 
 St. John's-street, opposite the "Windmill Inn, and named after Sir Bap- 
 tist Hicks, of Kensington, one of the justices of the county, afterwards 
 Viscount Campden, who built the Hall in 1612 ; from this site, " the 
 spot where Hicks's Hall formerly stood," the distances on the mile- 
 stones on the Great North Road were formerly measured. In this Hall, 
 the patriotic Lord William Russell was condemned to death, 1683. In 
 St. John's-lane are the remains of an Elizabethan house, with the sign 
 of the Baptist's Head (probably in compliment to Sir Baptist Hicks) : 
 it is said to have been frequented by Samuel Johnson and Oliver Gold- 
 smith, in their transactions with Cave, the printer, at St. John's-gate ; 
 and in the tap-room is a fine old armorial chimney-piece, engraved in 
 Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part iii. The Clerks' Well is in Ray- 
 
188 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 street, and was the Nunnery well ; and here is a pump, with an inscrip- 
 tion telling its history. 
 
 Upon the site of Back-hill and Ray-street was the Bear-garden of 
 Hockley-in-the-Hole, not only the resort of the mob, but of noblemen 
 and ambassadors, to witness the cruelties of bear and bull baiting by 
 greater brutes, and "the noble science of defence;" for, says Mrs. 
 Peachum (Beggar's Opera), "You should go to Hockley-in-the-Hole 
 to learn valour :" but the nuisance was abolished soon after 1728. The 
 locality, however, still retains its foul stain of moral degradation and 
 squalid misery in its alleys and courts, several with but one narrow 
 entrance ; and three-storied houses let in tenements, where men, women, 
 and donkeys find shelter together. 
 
 Westward of this spot, Cobham-row denotes the site of the mansion 
 of Sir John Oldcastle, afterwards Lord Cobham, the Wickliffite burnt 
 in 1417. The tract immediately eastward of the Fleet River was rich 
 in springs, many of them medicinal : hence Coldbath- fields, Bagnigge- 
 wells, Sadler's-wells, Islington Spa, the London Spa, and the " Wells" 
 of the earlier topographers ; and Spa-fields, the hot-bed of Radical riot 
 in 1817, but now covered with streets. ' 
 
 Watchmakers, clockmakers, and jewellers settled in .Clerkenwell in 
 great numbers early in the last century, arid several streets are mostly 
 occupied by them ; as "escapement-maker," "engine-turner,'.' "fusee- 
 cutter," "springer,"" secret-springer," "finisher," and "joint-finisher," 
 inscribed upon door-plates, attest ; for in no trade is the division of 
 labour carried to a greater extent than in watchmaking. (See ST. 
 JOHN'S GATE.) . . 
 
 CLIMATE OF LONDON. 
 
 The temperature of the air in the metropolis is raised by the artificial 
 sources of heat existing in it no. less than two degrees on the annual 
 mean above that of its immediate vicinity. , Mr. Howard, in his. work 
 on "_ Climate," has fully established this fact, by a comparison of a long 
 series of observations made at Plaistow, Stratford, and Tottenham 
 Green, (all within five miles of London,) with those made at the apart- 
 ments of the Royal Society in London,. and periodically recorded in 
 the Philosophical Transactions. In explanation, Mr. Howard refers 
 to the heat induced by the population (just as the temperature of a hive 
 of bees), from the domestic fires, and from the foundries, breweries, 
 steam-engines, and other manufactories. . ",When we consider that all 
 these artificial sources of heat, with the exception of the domestic fires, 
 continue in full operation throughout the . summer, it should seem, 
 , that the excess of the London temperature must be still greater in 
 June than it is in January, but the fact is otherwise. The excess of the 
 City temperature is greater in winter, and at that period seems to be- 
 long entirely to the nights, which average 3710 warmer than the 
 country; while the heat of the days, owing, without doubt, to the 
 interception of a portion of the solar rays by a constant veil of smoke, 
 falls, on a mean of years, about a third of a degree short of that in the 
 open plains." 
 
 In the winter of 1835, Mr. W. H. White ascertained the temperature 
 in the City to be 3 higher than three miles south of London Bridge ; and 
 after the gas had been lighted in the City four or five hours, the tempe- 
 rature increased full 3, thus making 6 difference in the three miles. 
 
 Dr. Prout found that when his observations were made during the 
 prevalence of wind (his station being at the western extremity of Lon- 
 don), the air blowing from the east contained a minute portion of 
 oxygen less than that which blew from the west. The difference was 
 exceedingly small ; still, it tended to shew that the air which has passed 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 189 
 
 over the busy streets of the metropolis differs in its amount, not only 
 of carbonic acid, but also of oxygen, from the air which has not reached 
 those scenes. 
 
 Change of air in the metropolis is mostly effected by the mixture of 
 the gases composing it. There are hundreds of places in London into 
 which the wind never finds admission; and even among the- wider 
 streets there are many through which; a free . current . is rarely blown. 
 It is only in the night, when combustion in some measure ceases, and 
 the whole surface of the earth is cooled, that the gases are gradually 
 removed, and the whole atmosphere of the City is brought nearly to an 
 equality. Nothing, indeed, can be more striking than the difference 
 even in the sensible qualities of the air of London in the early morning 
 and in the evening : in the former it has a coolness and refreshing clear- 
 ness, which those who know it in the heat of later hour scan scarcely 
 imagine. (Medical Gazette.) 
 
 Every one has observed upon dirty windows in the metropolis small 
 tree-like crystallisations : these consist of sulphate of ammonia, which 
 is produced in the atmosphere by the burning of vast quantities of coal, 
 combining with the sulphurous acid in the atmosphere. 
 
 Owing to the smoke, many species of flowers (the yellow rose, for 
 instance) will not bloom within ten miles of London ; Paris, on the 
 contrary (where wood is almost universally burnt), produces the finest 
 flowers, not alone in the gardens of the Tuileries and Luxembourg, but 
 in the nursery-grounds of the famous rose-growers, Noisette and Laffay ; 
 which, in the JFauxbourg St. Germain, enjoy advantages such as it 
 would be necessary to retreat some miles from London to secure. 
 
 In London, in sunny weather, some fine effects of light and shade 
 may be witnessed in the neighbourhood of the public buildings. Miss 
 Landon refers to a bright day in spring as "a very spendthrift of sun- 
 shine, when the darkest alley in London wins a golden glimpse, and 
 the eternal mist around St. Paul's turns to a glittering haze." 
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 
 
 Although the Club was a social feature of the last century, to the 
 present age is due the establishment of a system of Club Living upon a 
 scale of splendour and completeness hitherto unattainable. Formerly 
 the Club resembled an ill-appointed coffee-house or tavern ; often, how- 
 ever, redeemed by the brilliancy of the wit which was " wont to set the 
 table in a roar," and animated by a conversational spirit comparatively 
 little indulged in the present day. 
 
 It has been pleasantly observed, that Clubs are gradually working 
 as complete a revolution in the constitution of society as they have 
 already effected in the architectural appearance of our streets. In the 
 year 1800, there were only White's, as old as Hogarth's time; Brooks's 
 and Boodle's ; the Cocoa- Tree, Graham's, and another : now there are 
 upwards of thirty Clubs, each possessing a well-appointed mansion. 
 The facilities of living have been wonderfully increased by them, whilst 
 the expense has been greatly diminished : and for a few pounds a-year, 
 advantages are to be enjoyed which no fortune except, the most ample 
 can procure. The numbers of members in these Clubs are limited from 
 500 to 1500 : the entrance-fees are from 91. 9s. to 321. Us. ; and the an- 
 nual subscriptions from 51. 5s. to 121. 12s. 
 
 ALFRED CLUB, the No. 23 Albemarle-street, established in 1808, is 
 described by Earl Dudley, in his time, as the dullest place in existence, 
 " the asylum of doting Tories and drivelling quidnuncs." It was at 
 this club that " Mr. Canning, whilst in the zenith of his fame, dropped 
 in accidentally at a house-dinner of twelve or fourteen, stayed out the 
 
190 CURIOSITIES OE LONDON. 
 
 eyening, and made himself remarkably agreeable, without any of the 
 party suspecting who he was." (Quarterly Review, No. ex.) Lord 
 Byron was a member of the Alfred, with " Peel, and Ward, and Valentia." 
 
 ARMY AND NAVY CLUB-HOUSE, Pall Mall, corner of George-street, 
 designed by Parnell and Smith, was opened February, 1851. The 
 exterior is a combination from Sansovino's Palazzo Cornaro, and Li- 
 brary of St. Mark at Venice; but varying in the upper part, which 
 has Corinthian columns, with windows resembling arcades filling up 
 the intercolumns ; and over their arched headings are groupes of naval 
 and military symbols, weapons, and defensive armour very pictu- 
 resque. The frieze has also effective groupes symbolic of the army and 
 navy ; the cornice, likewise very bold, is crowned by a massive balus- 
 trade. The basement, from the Cornaro, is rusticated; the entrance 
 being in the centre of the east or George-street front, by three open 
 arches, similar in character to those in the Strand front of Somer- 
 set House. The whole is extremely rich in ornamental detail. The 
 hall is fine ; the coffee-room, 82 feet by 39 feet, is panelled with scag- 
 liola, and has a ceiling enriched with flowers, and pierced for ventila- 
 tion by heated flues above; adjoining is a room lighted by a glazed 
 plafond ; next is the house dining-room, decorated in the Munich style ; 
 and more superb is the morning room, with its arched windows, and 
 mirrors forming arcades and vistas innumerable. A magnificent stone 
 staircase leads to the library and evening rooms ; and in the third story 
 are billiard and card rooms ; and a smoking-room, with a lofty dome 
 elaborately decorated in traceried Moresque. The apartments are 
 adorned with an equestrian portrait of Queen Victoria, painted by 
 Grant, R.A. ; a piece of Gobelin tapestry (Sacrifice to Diana), pre- 
 sented to the Club in 1849 by Prince Louis Napoleon ; marble busts of 
 "William IV. and the Dukes of Kent and Cambridge ; and several life- 
 size portraits of naval and military heroes. The Club-house is pro- 
 vided with twenty lines of Whishaw's Telekouphona, or Speaking Te- 
 legraph, which communicate from the Secretary's room to the various 
 apartments. The cost of this superb edifice, exclusive of fittings, was 
 35,OOOJ. ; the plot of ground on which it stands cost the Club 52,OOOZ. 
 
 ARTHUR'S CLUB-HOUSE, 69 St. James's-street, is named from Mr. 
 Arthur, the keeper of White's Chocolate-house, who died 1761. The 
 present Club-house is by Hopper ; the principal windows are deco- 
 rated with fluted Corinthian columns. 
 
 ATHENAEUM CLUB, Waterloo-place, Pall Mall, was established in 
 1823 : the members are chosen by ballot, one black ball in ten exclud- 
 ing. The present Club-house, designed by Decimus Burton, was built 
 in 1829-30, on a portion of the court-yard of Carlton Palace ; the archi- 
 tecture is Grecian, with a frieze exactly copied from the Panathenaic 
 procession in the frieze of the Parthenon the flower and beauty of 
 Athenian youth gracefully seated on the most exquisitely-sculptured 
 horses, which Flaxman regarded as the most precious examples of 
 Grecian power in the sculpture of animals. Over the Roman-Doric 
 entrance-portico is a colossal figure of Minerva, by Baily, R.A. ; and 
 the interior has some fine casts from chef 'd' 'ceuvres of sculpture : the 
 style of the hall, staircase, gallery, and apartments, is grand, massive, and 
 severe. The Athenaeum is a good illustration of the Club system. The 
 number of ordinary members is fixed at 1200 ; they are mostly eminent 
 persons, civil, military, and ecclesiastical : peers spiritual and temporal ; 
 men of the learned professions, science, the arts, and commerce ; and 
 the distinguished who do not belong to any particular class. Many of 
 these are to be met with every day, living with the same freedom as in 
 their own houses. For 25 guineas entrance, and 6 guineas a-year, 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 191 
 
 every member has the command of an excellent library (the best Club 
 library in London), with maps ; of newspapers, English and foreign ; 
 the principal periodicals ; writing materials, and attendance. The build- 
 ing is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and comfort 
 as a private dwelling. Every member is master, without any of the 
 trouble of a master : he can come when he pleases, and stay away when 
 he pleases, without any thing going wrong; he has the command of 
 regular servants, without having to pay or manage them ; he can have 
 whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and served up as in 
 his own house. From an account of the expenses at the Athenaeum in the 
 year 1832, it appears that 17,323 dinners cost, on an average, 2s. 9|rf. 
 each, and that the average quantity of wine for each person was a small 
 fraction more than half-a-pint. The expense of building the Club-house 
 was 35,0001., and 5000Z. for furnishing ; the plate, linen, and glass cost 
 25001. ; library, 4000?. ; and the stock of wine in cellar is usually worth 
 about 4000Z. : yearly revenue about 9000J. The principal rooms are 
 lighted by chandeliers fitted with Faraday's perfect ventilation appa- 
 ratus. In the library is an unfinished portrait of George IV., which 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence was painting but a few hours before his decease, 
 the last bit of colour he ever put upon canvass being that on the hilt and 
 sword-knot of the girdle. 
 
 At the preliminary meeting for the formation of the Athenaeum, February 16j 
 1824, were present Sir Humphry Davy, Bart., P.R.S., the Right Hon. John Wil- 
 son Croker, Sir Francis Chantrey, R.A., Richard Heber, Sir Thomas Lawrence, 
 P.R.A., Dr. Thomas Young, F.R.S., Lord Dover, Dav'tes Gilbert, the Earl of 
 Aberdeen, P.S.A., Sir Henry Halford, Sir Walter Scott, Bart., Joseph Jekyll, 
 Thomas Moore, Charles Hatchett, F.R.S. ; Secretary, Professor Faraday. 
 
 " The mixture of Whigs, Radicals, savans, foreigners, dandies, authors, sol- 
 diers, sailors, lawyers, artists, doctors, and Members of both Houses of Parlia- 
 ment, together with an exceedingly good average supply of bishops, render the 
 melange very agreeable, despite of some two or three bores, who ' continually do 
 dine,' and who, not satisfied with getting a 6s. dinner for 3s. 6d., 'continually do 
 complain.' " New Monthly Magazine, 1834. 
 
 BEEF-STEAK SOCIETY, "the sublime Society of Beef-steaks," (but 
 disdaining to be thought a Club,) consists of twenty-four members, 
 noblemen and gentlemen, who dine together off beef-steaks at five 
 o'clock on Saturdays, from November until the end of June, at their 
 rooms in the Lyceum Theatre, The dining-room is lined with oak, and 
 decorated with emblematic gridirons, and in the middle of the ceiling 
 is the gridiron first used by the cook. The orthodox accompaniment 
 to the steaks is arrack punch. Each member may invite a friend. The 
 Society originated with George Lambert, the scene-painter of Covent 
 Garden Theatre during Rich's management, where Lambert often 
 dined from a steak cooked ou the fire in his painting-room, in which 
 he was often joined by his visitors. This led to the founding of the So- 
 ciety by Rich and Lambert, in 1735, in a room in the theatre. After 
 its rebuilding, the place of meeting was changed to the Shakspeare 
 Tavern, in the Piazza ; afterwards to the Lyceum Theatre, and on its 
 destruction by fire in 1830, to the Bedford Hotel ; and thence to the 
 Lyceum, rebuilt in 1834. The number of members was increased to 
 twenty-five, to admit the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.); 
 and Captain Morris was the laureat, the sun of this "jovial system :" 
 in 1831 he bade adieu to the Society, but in 1835 revisited it, and 
 was presented with an elegant silver bowl ; at the age of 90, he sung : 
 " When my spirits are low for relief and delight, 
 I still place your splendid memorial in sight ; 
 And call to my muse, when care strives to pursue, 
 ' Bring the steaks to my mem'ry, and the bowl to my view.' " 
 
 There was also a Beef-steak Club, which is mentioned by Ned Ward in 
 
192 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1709. Peg Woffington was a member, and the President wore as an 
 emblem a gold gridiron. 
 
 BOODLE'S, 28 St. James's-street, is the noted "Savoir vivre" Club- 
 house, designed by Holland. It contains portraits of C. J. Fox and the 
 Duke of Devonshire. Gibbon, the historian, was one of its early mem- 
 bers. Next door, 29, Gillray, the caricaturist, in 1815, threw himself 
 from an upstairs window, and died in consequence. 
 
 BBOOKS'S, the Whig Club-house, at 60, west side of St. James's- 
 street, was designed by Holland, and opened in 1778 ; but was originally 
 established in Pall Mall, in 1764, by the Duke of Portland, C. J. Fox, 
 and others. It was formerly a gaming-club, kept by Almack, and then 
 by Brooks, a wine-merchant and money-lender, who left the Club soon 
 after the present house was built, and died in poverty about 1782. 
 Among the early members were C. J. Fox, Burke, Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 Garrick, Horace' Walpole, Hume, Gibbon, and Sheridan. When Wilber- 
 force was young and gay, he played here at faro ; but his usual resort 
 was at Goosetree's, in Pall Mall, where he one night kept the bank 
 and won 6007. ; but this weaned him from gaming. On March 21, 1772, 
 Mr. Thynne retired from Brooks's in disgust, because he had won only 
 12,000 guineas in two months. The Club was famous for wagers ; and 
 the old betting-book is an oddity. 
 
 CARLTON CLUB-HOUSE, Pall Mall (Tory and Conservative), was 
 originally built in the Grecian style, by Sir 'Robert Smirke, R.A., but 
 was enlarged by his brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke, in florid Italian, nearly 
 a fac-simile of Sansovino's Library of St. Mark at Venice : the lower 
 order Doric, the upper Ionic ; the six intercolumniations occupied by 
 arched windows, with bold keystones, and the upper window spandrels 
 filled with sculpture; above is a decorated frieze, rich cornice, and 
 massive balustrade. The facade is of Caen stone, but the shafts and 
 pilasters are of polished Peterhead granite, already dimmed by London 
 smoke. This new portion will form only one-third of the entire fagade. 
 
 CHESS- CLUBS, see page 79-80. 
 
 CITY CLUB-HOUSE, 19 Old Broad-street, occupying the site of the 
 old South-Sea House, was built in 1833, from the design of Hardwick, 
 R.A. The style is handsome Palladian ; the only sculpture is a rich 
 festooned garland over the doorway. The Club consists of merchants, 
 bankers, and professional men of the City. 
 
 CLUB CHAMBERS, Regent-street, west side, between Pall Mall and 
 Piccadilly, was built in 1839, by Decimus Burton ; cost 26,OOOJ. The 
 style is Italian ; the ground-story is rusticated, and terminated by a 
 lace band, or string-course, enriched with the Vitruvian scroll; this 
 forms a basement to three other stories, surmounted by a bold and en- 
 riched cornice. The principal floor has handsome balconies, Corinthian 
 columns, and pediments ; but the whole facade is too narrow for its 
 height. The entrance is beneath a portico with coupled Doric columns. 
 The building contains 77 chambers, coffee and dining-rooms, and of- 
 fices. The whole is ventilated, and warmed by hot water, with com- 
 plete skill; and is supplied with water from a well 250 feet deep, 
 which is raised to the attic story by a steam-engine, also employed for 
 lifting coals, furniture, &c. The Chambers are let in suites by the pro- 
 prietors. They occupy the site of a house built by Mr. Nash for Charles 
 Blicke, Esq. : it was tilled with articles of vertu, and superb decoration ; 
 among which was a small circular temple, supported by Corinthian 
 columns with brass capitals ; and a conservatory embellished with 
 models from Canova. Altogether, this was one of the most elaborately- 
 decorated houses in the metropolis. 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 193 
 
 "Cms CHAMBERS, St. James's-square, north corner of King-street 
 (formerly the mansion o; Lord Castlereagh, d. 1822), has been refronted 
 in cement, in the Italian palazzo style (Johnson, architect) : the ground- 
 floor has some good vermiculated rustic-work, and the windows of the 
 King-street front are piquant. 
 
 CONSERVATIVE CLUB-HOUSE, on the site of the old Thatched- 
 House Tavern, 74 St. James's-street, was designed by Sydney Smirke 
 and George Basevi, 1845. The upper portion is Corinthian, with columns 
 and pilasters, and a frieze sculptured with the imperial crown and oak- 
 wreaths ; the lower order is Roman-Doric ; and the wings are slightly 
 advanced, with an enriched entrance-porch north, and a bow-window 
 south. The interior is superbly decorated in colour by Sang : the coved 
 hall, with a gallery round it, and the domed vestibule above it, is a fine 
 specimen of German encaustic embellishment, in the arches, soffites, 
 spandrels, and ceilings ; and the hall floor is tessellated, around a noble star 
 of marqueterie. The evening room, on the first floor, nearly 100 feet in 
 length and 26 in breadth, has an enriched coved ceiling, and a beautiful 
 frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle, supported by scagliola Corinthian 
 columns ; the morning room, beneath, is of the same dimensions, with 
 Ionic pillars. The library, in the upper story north, has columns and pi- 
 lasters with bronzed capitals ; and beneath is the coffae-room. Here is no 
 grained or imitative wood-work, the doors and fittings being wainscot- 
 oak, bird's-eye maple, and sycamore. The baths and dressing-rooms 
 in the entresol are very complete, and the kitchen is skilfully planned. 
 
 COVENTRY HOUSE CLUB (the AMBASSADORS') is at 106 Piccadilly : 
 the mansion occupies the site of the old Greyhound Inn, and was bought 
 by the Earl of Coventry of Sir Hugh Hunlock, in 1764, for 10,000 guineas. 
 
 CROCKFORD'S CLUB-HOUSE, 50, west side of St. James's-street, was 
 built for Crockford in 1827 ; B. and P. Wyatt, architects. It consists 
 of two wings and a centre, with four Corinthian pilasters with entab- 
 lature, and a balustrade throughout ; the ground-floor has Venetian 
 windows, and the upper story large French windows. The entrance- 
 hall has a screen of Roman-Ionic scagliola columns with gilt capitals, 
 and a cupola of gilding and stained glass. The coffee-room and library 
 have Ionic columns and centre from the Temple of Minerva Polias ; the 
 staircase is panelled with scagliola, and enriched with Corinthian columns. 
 The grand drawing-room is in the style of Louis Quatorze : azure ground, 
 with elaborate cove, ceiling enrichments bronze- gilt, door way paintings 
 a la Watteau; and paneling, masks, and terminals heavily gilt. The 
 interior was redecorated in 1849, and opened for the Military, Naval, 
 and County Service Club, but was closed in 1851. 
 
194 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 DILETTANTI SOCIETY, Thatched-House Tavern, 85 St. James's- 
 street, originated in 1734, with a party of Dilettanti (lovers of the fine 
 arts), who had travelled or resided in Italv : in 17G4, they commissioned 
 certain artists to journey to the East, to illustrate its antiquities; and 
 by the aid of the Society several important works, including Stuart's 
 Athens, have been published. The Dilettanti formerly met at Parsloe's 
 in St. James's- street, whence they removed to the Thatched- House in 
 1799, where they dine on Sundays from February to July. The meet- 
 ing-room is hung with portraits of the early members, and two fine 
 conversation pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 
 The forty-two pictures include portraits of Sir Joseph Banks, Sir William 
 Hamilton, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir H. Englefield, R. Payne Knight, the Earls of 
 Sandwich and Holderness; Charles Sackville, Duke of Dorset; Lords Galloway 
 and Le Despencer, &c. 
 
 ERECTHEUM CLUB-HOUSE, St. James's-square (entrance 8 York- 
 street), was the house of Wedgewood, whose beautiful "ware" was 
 shewn in its rooms. It was formerly the site of Romney House; and 
 from its windows William III. used to witness the fireworks in the 
 square at public rejoicings. 
 
 GAKRICK. CLUB-HOUSE, 23 King-street, Covent Garden, contains a 
 Collection of Theatrical Paintings and Drawings, assembled by the late 
 Charles Mathews, and now the property of a member of the Club : 
 they include : 
 
 Elliston as Octavian, by Singleton ; Macklin (aged 93), by Opie ; Mrs. 
 Pritchard, by Hayman; Peg Woffington, by R. Wilson; Nell Gwynne, by Sir 
 Peter Lely; Mrs. Abington; Samuel Foote, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Colley 
 Cibber as Lord Foppington ; Mrs. Brac2girdle; Kitty Clive ; Mrs. Robinson, 
 after Reynolds; Garrick as Macbeth, and Mrs. Pritchard, Lady Macbeth, by 
 Zoffany; Garrick as Richard III., by Morland, sen.; Young Roscius, by Opie; 
 Quin, by Hogarth ; Rich and his Family, by Hogarth ; Charles Mathews, four 
 characters, by Harlowe; Nat Lee, painted in Bedlam; Anthony Leigh as the 
 Spanish Friar, by Kneller ; John Liston, by Clint ; Munden, by Opie ; John 
 Johnstone, by Shee; Lacy in three characters, by Wright; Scene from Charleg 
 II., by Clint; Mrs. Siddons as Lady Macbeth, by Harlowe; J. P. Kemble as 
 Cato, by Lawrence ; Macready as Henry IV., by Jackson ; Edwin, by Gains- 
 borough ; the twelve of the School of Garrick; Kean, Young, Elliston, and Mrs. 
 Inchbald, by Harlowe: Garrick as Richard III., by Loutherbourg ; Rich as 
 Harlequin ; Moody and Parsons in the " Committee," by Vandergucht ; King as 
 Touchstone ; by Zoffany; Thomas Dogget ; Henderson, by Gainsborough; Elder 
 Colman, by R-ynolds ; Mrs. Oldfield, by Kneller; Mrs. Billington ; Nancy Daw- 
 son ; Screen scene from the " School for Scandal," as originally cast; Scene from 
 " Venice Preserved" ( Garrick and Mrs. Cibber), by Zoffany ; Scene from " Macbeth" 
 (Henderson) ; Scene from " Love, Law, and Physic," (Mathews, Liston, Blanchard, 
 and Emery), by Clint ; Scene from the " Clandestine Marriage" (King and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Baddeley). by Zoffany ; Weston as Billy Button, by Zoffany. The following 
 have been presented to the Club : Busts of Mrs. Siddons and J. P. Kemble. by 
 Mrs. Siddons; of Garrick, Captain Marryat, Dr. Kitchiner, and Malibran ; Gar- 
 rick, by Roubiliac ; Griffin and Johnson in the "Alchemist," by Von Bleeck ; 
 miniatures of Mrs. Robinson and Peg Womngton ; Sketch of Kean, by Lambert; 
 Garrick Mulberry-tree Snuff-box ; Joseph Harris as Cardinal Wolsey, from the 
 Strawberry Hill Collection; proof print of the Trial of Queen Katherine, by Harlowe. 
 The Pictures may be seen by the personal introduction of a member of 
 the Club on Wednesdays (except in September), between eleven and 
 three o'clock. The Garrick Club was instituted in 1831, "for the 
 general patronage of the Drama ; the formation of a Theatrical Li- 
 brary, and Works, and Costume ; and for bringing together the pa- 
 trons of the Drama," &c. Members not to exceed 300 ; entrance, 
 fifteen guineas ; annual subscription, six guineas. The Garrick is noted 
 for its summer gin-punch, thus made : Pour half-a-pint of gin on the 
 outer peel of a lemon, then a little lemon-juice, a glass of maraschino, 
 a pint and a quarter of water, and two bottles of iced soda-water. 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 195 
 
196 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Parliament. Dr. Johnson was a great encourager of clubs; he was 
 member of one held at the King's Head, Ivy-lane,"Newgate-street, now 
 a chop-house. Johnson, in 1783, also established a minor club at the 
 Essex Head, Essex-street, Strand, then kept by Samuel Greaves, an 
 old servant of Mr. Thrale. The Doctor, inviting Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 to join the club, says, " We meet twice a- week, and he who misses 
 forfeits twopence :" Sir Joshua declined being a member ; but Brock- 
 lesby, Horsley, Daines Harrington, and Windham joined this Club : its 
 rules were drawn up by Johnson, and are printed by Bos well. 
 
 OCTOBER CLUB (the), formed in 1712,atthe Bell Tavern, King-street, 
 Westminster, was so called from being composed of High-Church 
 Tory country gentlemen, who, when at home, drank October ale. 
 From it the March Club took its rise. Walcott's Westminster, p. 70. 
 
 ORIENTAL CLUB, 18 Hanover-square, was established in 1824 by 
 Sir John Malcolm, the traveller and brave soldier. The members are 
 noblemen and gentlemen associated with the administration of our East- 
 ern empire, or who have travelled or resided in Asia, at St. Helena, in 
 Egypt, at the Cape of Good Hope, the Mauritius, or at Constantinople. 
 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB-HOUSE, 71 Pall Mall, for Members 
 of the two Universities, was designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R. A., and his 
 brother, Sydney Smirke, 1 835-8. The Pall Mall facade is 80 feet in width 
 by 75 in he'ight, and the rear lies over-against the court of Marlborough 
 House. The ornamental detail is very rich : as the entrance-portico, 
 with Corinthian columns ; the balcony, with its panels of metal foliage ; 
 and the ground-story frieze, and arms of Oxford and Cambridge Univer- 
 sities over the portico columns. The upper part of the building has a 
 delicate Corinthian entablature and balustrade ; and above the principal 
 windows are bas-reliefs in panels, executed in cement by Nicholl, from 
 designs by Sir R. Smirke, R.A. 
 
 Centre panel : Minerva and Apollo presiding on Mount Parnassus ; and the river 
 Helicon, surrounded by the Muses. Extreme panels : Homer singing to a war- 
 rior, a female, and a youth ; Virgil singing his Georgics to a group of peasants. 
 Other four panels : Milton reciting to his daughter ; Shakspeare attended by 
 Tragedy and Comedy; Newton explaining his system; Bacon, his philosophy. 
 Beneath the ground-floor is a basement of offices, and an entresol or 
 mezzanine of chambers. The principal apartments are tastefully deco- 
 rated ; the drawing-room is panelled with papier-mache ; and the libra- 
 ries are filled with book-cases of beautifully-marked Russian birch-wood. 
 From the back library is a view of Marlborough House and its gardens. 
 PARTHENON CLUB-HOUSE (late Mr. Edwards's), east side of Regent- 
 street, nearly facing St. Philip's Chapel, was designed by Nash : the first 
 floor is elegant Corinthian. The south division was built by Mr. Nash 
 for his own residence ; it has a long gallery, decorated from a loggia 
 of the Vatican at Rome : it is now the " Gallery of Illustration." 
 
 REFORM CLUB-HOUSE, between the Travellers' and Carlton Club- 
 houses, has a frontage in Pall Mall of 135 feet, being nearly equal to 
 that of the Athenaeum (76 feet) and Travellers' (74 feet). The Reform 
 was built in 1838-39, from the designs of Barry, R. A. ; and resembles 
 the Farnese Palace at Rome, designed by Michael Angelo Buonarotti, 
 in 1545. The club-house contains six floors and 134 apartments: the 
 basement and mezzanine below the street pavement, and the chambers 
 in the roof, are not seen. 
 
 " The points most admired are extreme simplicity and unity of design, 
 combined with very unusual richness. The breadth of the piers between the 
 windows contributes not a little to that repose which is so essential to simplicity, 
 and hardly less so to stateliness. The string-courses are particularly beautiful, 
 while the'cornicione (68 feet from the pavement) gives extraordinary majesty and 
 grandeur to the whole. The roof is covered with Italian tiles; the edifice is faced 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 197 
 
 throughout with Portland stone, and is a very fine specimen of masonry. In build- 
 ing it a strong scaffolding was constructed, and on the top was laid a railway, upon 
 which was worked a traversing crane, movable along the building either longi- 
 tudinally or transversely ; by which means the stones were raised from the ground, 
 and placed on the wall with very little labour to the mason, who had only to ad- 
 just the bed and lay the stone." Civil Engineer and Architect's Journal, 1841. 
 In the centre of the interior is a grand hall, 56 by 50, resembling an Ita- 
 lian cortile, surrounded by colonnades, below Ionic, and above Corin- 
 thian ; the latter is a picture-galley, where, inserted in the scagliola 
 walls, are whole-length portraits of eminent political Reformers. The 
 floor of the hall is tessellated ; and the entire roof is strong diapered 
 flint-glass, by Pellatt and Co. The staircase, like that of an Italian 
 palace, leads to the upper gallery of the hall, opening into the prin- 
 cipal drawing-room, which is over the coffee-room in the garden front, 
 both being the entire length of the building; adjoining area library, 
 card-room, &c., over the library and dining-rooms. Above are a bil- 
 liard-room and lodging-rooms for members of the Club ; there being a 
 separate entrance to the latter by a lodge adjoining the Travellers' Club. 
 The basement comprises two storied wine-cellars beneath the hall, besides the 
 Kitchen Department, planned by Alexis Soyer, originally chef-de-cuisine of the 
 Club : it contains novel employments of steam and gas, and mechanical appli- 
 cations of practical ingenuity, the inspection of which has long been one of the 
 privileged sights of London. The cuisine, under M. Soyer, enjoyed European 
 fame, fully testified in a magnificent banquet given by the Club to Ibrahim 
 Pasha, July 3, 1846. The Club-house is ventilated by a rapidly-revolving fan 
 driven by a steam-engine, the steam of which warms the whole building. 
 The Reform Club was established by Liberal Members of the two 
 Houses of Parliament, to aid the carrying of the Reform Bill, 1830-32 ; 
 the number of members is limited to 1400, exclusive of honorary, super- 
 numerary, and life members : entrance-fee 25 guineas ; annual sub- 
 I scription, first five years 10/. 10s., subsequently 81. 8s.* 
 
 The south side of Pall Mall has a truly patrician air in its seven costly 
 Club-houses, of exceedingly rich architectural character, and reminding 
 one of Captain Morris's luxurious resource : 
 
 " In town let me live then, in town let me die ; 
 For in truth I can't relish the country, not I. 
 If one must have a villa in summer to dwell, 
 Oh, give me the sweet shady side of Pall Mall." 
 
 ROXBUBGHE CLUB (the) was founded by the Rev. T. Frognall 
 I (afterwards Dr.) Dibdin, at the St. Albans Tavern, St. James's, on 
 June 17, 1812, immediately after the sale of the rarest lot in the Rox- 
 burghe Library, viz. II Decamerone di Boccaccio, which produced 
 22601. The number of members was limited to 2-i, subsequently to 31. 
 The President of this Club was the second Earl Spencer : among the most 
 celebrated members were the Duke of Devonshire, the Marquis of Blandford 
 (the late Duke of Marlborough), Lord Althorp (late Earl Spencer), Lord Morpeth 
 (present Earl of Carlisle), Lord Gower (late Earl of Carlisle), Sir Masterman Sykes, 
 Sir Egerton Brydges, Mr. (afterwards Baron) Bolland, Mr. Dent, Mr. Townley, 
 Rev. T. C. Heber, Rev. Rob. Holwell Carr, Sir Walter Scott, &c. : Dr. Dibdin 
 being secretary. The avowed object of the Club was the reprinting of rare and 
 neglected pieces of ancient literature ; and, at one of the early meetings, " it was 
 proposed and concluded for each member of the Club to reprint a scarce piece of 
 ancient lore, to be given to the members, one copy being on vellum for the chair- 
 man, and only as many copies as members." It may, however, be questioned 
 whether the " dinners" of the Club were not more important than the literature. 
 They were given at the St. Alban's, at Grillion's, at the Clarendon, and the Albion 
 Taverns. Of these entertainments some curious details have been recorded by 
 Mr. Joseph Haslewood, one of the members, in a MS. entitled " Roxburghe 
 Revels ; or, an Account of the Annual Display, culinary and festivous, interspersed 
 with Matters of Moment or Merriment:" a selection from its rarities has ap- 
 
 * The number of Members in the different London Clubs may be about 28,000. 
 
198 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 peared in the Athenceum : at the second dinner, Mr. Heber in the chair, a few- 
 tarried until, " on arriving at home, the click of time bespoke a quarter to four." 
 Among the early members was the Rev. Mr. Dodd. one of t-ie masters of West- 
 minster School, who, until 1818 (when he died), enlivened the Club with Robin- 
 Hood ditties. At the fourth dinner, at Grillion's, Sir Mas erman Sykes chairman, 
 20 members present, the bill was 571. At the Anniversary, 1818, at the Albion, 
 Mr. Heber in the chair, 15 present, the bill was 85/. 9s. Gd., or of. 14s. each; in- 
 cluding turtle, 121. 10s, ; venison, 101. 10s. ; and wine, 301. 17s. " Andents, believe 
 it," says Haslewoocl, " we were not dead drunk, and therefore lie quiet under the 
 table for once, and let a few moderns be uppermost." 
 
 The Roxburghe Club still exists ; and may justly be said to have 
 suggested the publishing Societies of the present day ; as the Camden, 
 Shakspeare, Percy, &c. 
 
 TRAVELLERS' CLUB-HOUSE, adjoining the Athenaum, in Pall Mall, 
 was designed by Barry, R.A., and built in 1832. The architecture is 
 the nobler Italian, resembling a Roman palace : the plan is a quad- 
 rangle, with an open area in the middle, so that all the rooms are well 
 lighted. The Pall Mall front has a bold and rich cornice, and the win- 
 dows are decorated with Corinthian pilasters ; the garden front varies 
 in the windows ; but the Italian taste is preserved throughout, with 
 the most careful finish : the roof is Italian tiles. The Travellers' Club 
 originated shortly after the Peace of 1814, in a suggestion of the late 
 Marquis of Londonderry, then Lord Castlereagh, with a view to a 
 resort for gentlemen who had resided or travelled abroad ; as well as 
 to the accommodation of foreigners, who, when properly recommended, 
 receive an invitation for the period of their stay. ( Quarterly Review, No. 
 ex. 1836.) By one of the rules, "no person is eligible to the Travellers' 
 Club who shall not have travelled out of the British Islands to a dis- 
 tance of at least 500 miles from London in a direct line." Prince Tal- 
 leyrand, during his residence in London, generally joined the muster 
 of whist-players at this Club. 
 
 UNION CLUB-HOUSB, Cockspur-street, and west side of Trafalgar- 
 square, was completed in 1824, from designs by Sir R. Smirke, R.A.* 
 James Smith has left us a sketch of his every-day life at this Club : 
 
 " At three o'clock I walk to the Union Club, read the journals, hear Lord John 
 Russell deified or diablerised, do the same with Sir Robert Peel or the Duke of Wel- 
 lington, and then join a knot of conversationists by the fire HI six o'clock, con- 
 sisting of lawyers, merchants, and gentlemen at large. We then and there discuss 
 the Three per Cent Consols (some of us preferring Dutch Two-and-a-half per Cents), 
 and speculate upon the probable rise, shape, and cost of the New Exchange. If 
 Lady Harrington happen to drive past our window in her landau, we compare 
 her equipage to the Algerine Ambassador's; and when politics happen to be dis- 
 cussed, rally Whigs, Radicals, and Conservatives alternately, but never seriously, 
 such subjects having a tendency to create acrimony. At six, the room begins to 
 be deserted ; wherefore I adjourn to the dining-room, and gravely looking over 
 the bill of fare, exclaim to the waiter, 'Haunch of mutton and apple-tart!' These 
 viands despatched, with the accompanying liquids and water, I mount upward 
 to the library, take a book and my seat in the arm-chair, and read till nine. Then 
 call for a cup of coffee and a biscuit, resuming my book till eleven; afterwards 
 return home to bed." Com ic Miscellanies. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE CLUB-HOUSE, at the corner of Pall Mall, was built 
 in 1826, from a design by Nash : the principal front has a Roman -Doric 
 portico, and above it a Corinthian portico with pediment. Here is 
 Stanfield's fine picture of the Battle of Trafalgar; and a copy by Lane 
 (painted 1851) of a contemporary portrait of Sir Francis Drake. 
 
 The Wyndham was once considered the most expensive club, and the United 
 Sen-ice the cheapest; the latter, probably, from the number of absent members. 
 
 * The West-end clubs contribute largely to the feeding of the poor. The Union 
 Club distributed in the year 1844, to the poor of St. Martin's in-the-Fields, no less 
 than 3104 Ibs. of broken bread, 4556 Ibs. of broken meat, 1147 pints of tea-leaves, 
 and 1158 pints of coffee-grounds. 
 
CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 199 
 
 Formerly, the Duke of Wellington might often be seen dining at this Club on a 
 joint; "and on one occasion, when he was charged I5d. instead of Is. for it, he 
 bestirred himself till the odd threepence was struck off. The motive was ob- 
 vious; he took the trouble of objecting to give his sanction to the principle." 
 Quarterly Review, No. ex. 1836. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE CLUB (JUNIOR), north corner of Charles-street, 
 Regent -street, was originally designed for the United Service Club, by 
 Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. The Charles-street front has a large bas- 
 relief of Britannia distributing laurels to her brave sons by land and sea. 
 
 UNIVERSITY CLUB-HOUSE, Suffolk-street, Pall Mall East, was built 
 in 1824 ; Deering and Wilkins, architects. It is of the Grecian-Doric 
 and Ionic orders; the staircase walls have casts from the Parthenon 
 frieze. The Club is limited to 1000 members, 500 from each University. 
 
 WHITE'S (Tory) CLUB-HOUSE. 36 and 37 St. James's-street, has an 
 elegant front, designed by James Wyatt, restored and enriched in 1851 : 
 the medallions above the drawing-room story are classic composi- 
 tions. The Club, as White's Chocolate-house, was originally established 
 about 1698, near the bottom of the west side of St. James's-street : the 
 Club-house, then kept by Mr. Arthur, was burnt down April 28, 1773 ; 
 and plate 6 of Hogarth's "Rake's Progress" shews a room at White's 
 so intent upon their play, as neither to see the flames nor hear the 
 watchmen, who are bursting into the room to give the alarm. Sir An- 
 drew Fountayne's collection of pictures, valued at 30007., was destroyed 
 in the fire ; and the King and the Prince of Wales were present, encourag- 
 ing the firemen and people to work the engines. In 1736, the principal 
 members of the club were the Duke of Devonshire, Lord Chesterfield, 
 Sir John Cope, Bubb Doddington, and Colley Cibbcr : before this date 
 it was an open chocolate-house. It soon became a gaming-club and a 
 noted supper-house, the dinner- hour being early a century since. Bet- 
 ting was another of its pastimes ; and a book for entering wagers was 
 always laid upon the table. 
 
 Walpole vvi-ites to Sir Horace Mann, Sept. 1, 1750 : " They have put into the 
 papers a good story made at White's. A man dropped down dead at the door, and 
 was carried in ; the Club immediately made bets whether he was dead or not ; and 
 when tiiey were going to bleed him, the wagerers for his death interposed, and 
 said it would affect the fairness of the bet." 
 
 The Club, on June 20, 1814, gave at Burlington-house, to the Allied 
 Sovereigns then in England, a ball, which cost 9489/. 2s. 6eZ. ; and on 
 July 6 following, the Club gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, 
 which cost 2480/. 10*. 9d. See Cunningham's Handbook ("White's,") 
 for several very interesting extracts from the Club-books, and from 
 writers of the middle of the last century, " curiously characteristic of 
 the state of society at the time." 
 
 WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHENAEUM, Arundel- 
 street, originated in 1846 with Mr. Douglas Jerrold, who became its 
 first president. It combines a literary society with a club-house, 
 upon an economical scale, for the middle classes. The premises, for- 
 merly the Crown and Anchor Tavern, contain dining and coffee- 
 rooms, library and reading-rooms, smoking and chess-rooms; and a 
 large room for balls, concerts, and soirees. Lectures are given here, and 
 classes held for the higher branches of education, fencing and dancing, 
 &c. The members average 1600, nearly one-fourth ladies at one gui- 
 nea per annum ; gentlemen two guineas, and 10s. Gd. entrance. In the 
 ball-re om is a picture of Whittington listening to Bow -bells, painted 
 by F. Newenham, and presented to the Club by its founder. 
 
 WINDHAM CLUB, 11 St. James's-square, was founded by the late 
 Lord Nugent, for gentlemen " connected with each other by a common 
 
200 CURl6SITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bond of literary or personal acquaintance:" limited to 600 members ; 
 entrance, 25 guineas ; annual subscription, 81. The mansion was the 
 residence of William "Windham, and of the accomplished John Duke 
 of Rosburghe ; and here the Roxburghe Library was sold in 1812, the 
 sale commencing May 18, and extending to forty-one days. Lord Chief- 
 Justice Ellenborough lived herein 1814 ; and subsequently the Earl of 
 Blessington, who possessed a tine collection of pictures. 
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 
 
 Coffee was first drunk in London about the middle of the 17th cen- 
 tury. " The first coffee-house in London," says Aubrey (MS. in the 
 Bodleian Library), " was in St. Michael's-alley, in Cornhill, opposite to 
 
 the church, which was set up by one Bowman (coachman to Mr. 
 
 Hodges, a Turkey merchant, who putt him upon it), in or about the 
 yeare 1652. 'Twas about four yeares before any other was sett up, 
 and that was by Mr. Farr. Jonathan Paynter, over-against to St. Mi- 
 chael's Church, was the first apprentice to the trade, viz. to Bowman." 
 
 Another account states that one Edwards, a Turkey merchant, on 
 his return from the East in 1657, brought with him a Ragusian Greek 
 servant, Pasqua Rosee, who prepared coffee every morning for his 
 master, and with the coachman above named set up the first coffee- 
 house in St. Michael's-alley ; but they soon quarrelled and separated, 
 the coachman establishing himself in St. Michael's churchyard. 
 
 Sir Hans Sloane had in his Museum in Bloomsbury-square, "part of a coffee- 
 tree, with the berries and leaves thereon ; it was brought over from Moco, in 
 Arabia, by Mr. E. Clive, of London, merchant," who has described it in Philos. 
 Trans. Xo. 208. 
 
 Coffee is first mentioned in our statute-book anno 1660 (12 Car II. 
 c. 24), when a duty of 4d. was laid upon every gallon of coffee made 
 and sold. A statute of 1663 directs that all coffee-houses should be 
 licensed at the Quarter Sessions, In 1675, Charles II. issued a procla- 
 mation to shut up the coffee-houses, charged with being seminaries of 
 sedition; but in a few days he suspended this proclamation by a second. 
 
 BAKER'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 1 Change-alley, Lombard-street, is noted 
 for its chops and steaks, broiled in the coffee-room, and thus eaten hot 
 from the gridiron ; with excellent stout and post- prandial punch. 
 
 BALTIC COFFEE-HOUSE, 58 Threadneedle-street, is the rendezvous 
 of merchants and brokers connected with the Russian trade, or that 
 in tallow, oil, hemp, and seeds. The supply of news to the subscription- 
 room is, with the exception of the chief London, Liverpool, and Hull 
 papers, confined to that from the north of Europe, and the tallow-pro- 
 ducing countries on the South American coast. In the upper part of 
 the Baltic Coffee-house is the auction sale-room for tallow, oils, &c. 
 
 BEDFORD COFFEE-HOUSE, Covent Garden, at the north-east corner 
 of the arcade, or Piazza, was the favourite resort of Garrick, Quin, Foote, 
 Murphy, and Sheridan ; and here the Beef-steak Society once met. 
 
 BUTTON'S COFFEE-HOUSE, " over-against Tom's, in Covent Gar- 
 den," was established in 1712, and thither Addison transferred the 
 company from Tom's. In July 1713, a Lion's Head, " a proper emblem 
 of knowledge and action, being all head and paws," was set up at 
 Button's, in imitation of the celebrated Lion at Venice, to receive letters 
 and papers for the Guardian. Here the wits of that time used to as- 
 semble ; and among them, Addison, Pope, Steele, Swift, Arbuthnot, 
 Count Viviani, Savage, Budgell, Philips, Davenant, and Colonel Brett ; 
 and here it was that Philips hung up a birchen rod, with which he 
 threatened to chastise Pope for " a biting epigram." Button, the 
 master of the coffee-house, had been a servant in the Countess of 
 
COFFEE-HOUSES. 201 
 
 Warwick's family; and it is said that when Addison suffered any vex- 
 ation from the Countess, he withdrew the company from Button's 
 house. The Lion's Head was removed to the Shakspea're Tavern, under 
 the Piazza; and in 1751 was placed in the Bedford Coffee-house ad- 
 joining, as the letter-box of the Inspector. In 1804, it was bought by 
 Mr. Richardson, of Richardson's Hotel : it was sold by his son to the 
 late Duke of Bedford, and is preserved to this day at "Woburn. The 
 Lion's Head is etched in Ireland's Illustrations of Hogarth : it is boldly 
 carved, and bears these lines from Martial : 
 
 " Cervantur magnis isti Cervicibus ungues : 
 Non nisi delicta pascitur ille fera." 
 
 CHAPTER COFFEE-HOUSE, 50 Paternoster-row, is mentioned in 
 No. 1 of the Connoisseur, Jan. 31, 1754, as the resort of " those encou- 
 ragers of literature, and not the worst judges of merit, the book- 
 sellers." Chatterton dates several letters from the Chapter. 
 
 The late Alexander Stephens left some reminiscences of the literati and poli- 
 ticians who frequented the Chapter from 1797 to 1805. The box in the north-east 
 corner was called the Witenagemot, and was occupied by the " Wet Paper Club." 
 Here assembled Dr. Buchan, author of Domestic Medicine; Dr. Berdmore, Master 
 of the Charter-house; Walker, the rhetorician; and Dr. Towers, the political writer; 
 Dr. George Fordyce, and Dr. Gower of "the Middlesex," who, with Buchan, pre- 
 scribed the Chapter punch ; Robinson, King of the Booksellers ; and his brother 
 John ; Joseph Johnson, the friend of Priestley and Paine, and Cowper and Fuseli ; 
 Alexander Chalmers, the Workman of the Robinsons; the two Parrys, of the 
 Courier, then the organ of Jacobinism ; Lowndes, the electrician ; Dr. Busby, the 
 writer on music; Jacob, an Alderman and M.P. ; Waithman, then Common 
 Councilman ; Mr. Blake, the banker, of Lombard-street ; Mr. Patterson, a North 
 Briton, who taught Pitt mathematics; Alexander Stephens ; and Phillips (after- 
 wards Sir Richard), who here recruited for contributors to his Monthly Maga- 
 zine. The Witenagemot has long lost its literary celebrities ; but the Chapter 
 maintains its reputation for good punch and coffee, scarce pamphlets, and liberal 
 supply of town and country newspapers. 
 
 CLIFFORD-STREET COFFEE-HOUSE, corner of Bond-street, had 
 its debating club, of which Canning, Mackintosh, and " Conversation " 
 Sharp ; Charles Moore, son of the celebrated traveller ; and Lord 
 Charles Townsend, fourth son of the facetious Marquis ; were distin- 
 guished members. During the debate, the refreshment was porter, to 
 a pot of which Canning once compared the eloquence of Mirabeau, as 
 empty and vapid as his patriotism "foam and froth at the top, heavy 
 and muddy within." 
 
 COCOA-TREE, 64 St. James's-street, near the Thatched House, was 
 the Tory chocolate-house in Queen Anne's reign : " a Whig," says 
 Defoe, " will no more go to the Cocoa-Tree or Ozinda's. than a Tory 
 will be seen at the coffee-house of St. James's." The Cocoa-Tree is 
 named in the Spectator and Connoisseur ; and in 1762 by Gibbon, who 
 describes " the first men in the kingdom, in fortune and fashion, supping 
 at little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffee-room, 
 upon a bit of cold meat or a sandwich, and drinking a glass of punch." 
 
 DEACON'S COFFEE AND DINING HOUSE, 3 Walbrook, has a sixty 
 years' file of the Times; here also are filed the London, Provincial, 
 Colonial, Continental (French and German), and American newspapers ; 
 with periodicals, professional publications, and directories. 
 
 DICK'S COFFEE-HOUSE (now a tavern), 8 Fleet-street, near Tem- 
 ple Bar, was originally called Richard's, from its tenant in 1680. Here 
 Steele takes the " Twaddlers," in the Toiler. The coffee-room retains 
 its olden paneling, and the staircase its original balusters. 
 
 " In 1737, Dick's was kept by a Mrs. Yarrow and her daughter, who were the 
 reigning toasts with the frequenters, and were supposed to be ridiculed in the 
 
202 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 comedy of ' the Coffee-house,' by the Rev. James Miller. This was stoutly denied 
 by the author ; but the engraver having inadvertently fixed upon Dick's Coffee- 
 house as the frontispiece scene, the Templars, with whom the ladies were great 
 favourites, became by this accident so confirmed in their suspicions, that they 
 united to damn the piece, and even extended their resentment to every thing sus- 
 pected to be this author's for a considerable time after." BiograjJiia Dramatica. 
 
 DON SALTERO'S COFFEE-HOUSE. (See CHELSEA, p. 75.) 
 GARHAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 3 Change-alley, Cornhill, was estab- 
 lished by Thomas Garway, tobacconist and coffee-man, who first sold 
 and retailed tea, in 1657, according to his shop-bill, still extant. Gar- 
 raway's is now a noted house for luncheons and punch, and property 
 sales. ROBINS'S and JONATHAN'S were two other Change-alley coffee- 
 houses : Garraway's for people of quality who have business in the City, 
 and for wealthy citizens ; Robins's for' foreign bankers, and even fo- 
 reign ministers ; and Jonathan's for the buyers and sellers of stock. 
 
 The consumption of sandwiches, pale ale, stout, and sherry at Garraway's is 
 immense. The Sale-room is an antiquated first-floor apartment, with a small 
 rostrum for the seller, and a few commonly grained settles for the buyers. Here 
 sales of drugs, mahogany, and timber are periodically held. Twenty or thirty 
 property and other sales sometimes take place in a day. 
 
 GEORGE'S COFFEE-HOUSE (now a hotel), No. 213 Strand, near 
 Essex-street, is mentioned by Foote, in his Life of A. Murphy, as an 
 evening meeting-place of the town wits of 1751. Shenstone was a fre- 
 quenter of George's, where, for a shilling subscription, he read "all 
 pamphlets under a three shillings' dimension." 
 
 GRECIAN COFFEE-HOUSE, Devereux-court, Strand, was originally 
 kept by one Constantine, a Grecian. From this house Steele proposed 
 to date his learned articles in the Tatler ; it is mentioned in No. 1 of 
 the Spectator ; and it was much frequented by Goldsmith and the Irish 
 and Lancashire Templars. The premises have, since 1 843, been the " Gre- 
 cian Chambers;" and over the door is a bust of Devereux, Earl of Essex. 
 
 JAMAICA COFFEE-HOUSE, 1 St. Michael's-alley, Cornhill, is noted for 
 the accuracy and fulness of its West India intelligence. The subscribers 
 are merchants trading with Madeira and the West Indies. It is the 
 best place for information as to the mail-packets on the West India 
 station, or the merchant-vessels making these voyages. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S COFFEE-HOUSE, St. James's-street, south-west end, 
 was frequented by Addison, Steele, Swift, Garrick, and Joseph War- 
 ton; and Goldsmith, whose "Retaliation" originated in a dinner here. 
 
 JERUSALEM COFFEE-HOUSE, 1 Cowper's-court, Cornhill, is one of 
 the oldest of the City news-rooms, and is frequented by merchants and 
 captains connected with the commerce of China, India, and Australia. 
 
 " The subscription-room is well furnished with files of the principal Canton, 
 Hong Kong, Macao, Penang, Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, Madras, Sydney, Ho- 
 bart Town, Launceston, Adelaide, and Port Phillip papers, and Prices Current; 
 besides shipping lists and papers from the various intermediate stations or ports 
 touched at, as St. Helena, the Cape of Good Hope, &c. The books of East India 
 shipping include arrivals, departures, casualties, &c. The full business is between 
 two and three o'clock, p.m. In 1845, John Taw ell, the Slough murderer, was 
 captured at the Jerusalem, which he was in the habit of visiting, to ascertain in- 
 formation of the state of his property in Sydney." The City, 2d edit. 1848. 
 
 KING'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Covent-Garden Market, was kept by Tom 
 King, beneath the portico of St. Paul's Church. Harwood's Alumni 
 Etonensesy p. 293, in the account of the boys elected from Eton to King's 
 College, contains this entry : 
 
 " A.D. 1713. Thomas King, born at West Ashton in Wiltshire, went away 
 scholar, in apprehension that his fellowship would be denied him, and afterwards 
 kept that coffee-house in Covent Garden which was called by his own name." 
 
COFFEE-HOUSES. 203 
 
 LANGBOURN COFFEE-HOUSE, Ball-alley, Lombard -street, rebuilt in 
 1850, has a broiling-stove in the coffee-room, whence chops and steaks 
 are served hot from the gridiron ; and here is a wine and cigar room, 
 embellished in handsome old French style. 
 
 LONDON COFFEE-HOUSE, Ludgate-hill (now a hotel and tavern), 
 was opened May 1731, as "a Punch House, Dorchester Beer, and 
 "Welsh Ale Warehouse, where the finest and best old Arrack, Rum, and 
 French Brandy is made into Punch." In front of the London Coffee- 
 house, immediately west of St. Martin's Church, stood Ludgate ; and on 
 the site of the church "Wren found the monument of a Roman soldier of 
 the Second Legion, which is preserved in the Arundelian Collection. 
 The London Coffee house is noted for its booksellers' sales of stock aud 
 literary copyrights : it was within the Rules of the Fleet Prison. 
 
 LLOYD'S, Royal Exchange, celebrated for its priority of shipping 
 intelligence, and its marine insurance, originated with one Lloyd, who 
 kept a coffee-house in Lombard-street. One of the apartments in the 
 Exchange is fitted up as Lloyd's coffee-room. (See EXCHANGES.) 
 
 MILES'S COFFEE-HOUSE, New Palace-yard, Westminster, was the 
 place of meeting of the noted Rota Club, founded by James Harring- 
 ton in 1659, for the dissemination of republican opinions, which he had 
 so temptingly painted in his Oceana. The Club was named from its 
 plan for changing a certain number of Members of Parliament annually 
 by rotation : Sir William Petty, the statist, was one of its members. 
 
 " ' In 1659, the beginning of Michaelmas Term,' says Aubrey, ' he had every 
 night a meeting at the then Turke's Head, in the New Palace-yard, where they 
 take water, the next house to the Staires, at one Miles's, where was purposely a 
 large ovall table, with a passage in the middle for Miles to deliver his coffee. 
 About it sat his disciples and the virtuosi. We many times adjourned to the 
 Rhenish Wine-house. One time Mr. Stafford and his gang came in drink from 
 the tavern, and affronted the Junto ; the soldiers offered to kick them down 
 staires, but Mr. Harrington's moderation and persuasion hindered it.' " 
 
 NEAV ENGLAND AND NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICAN COFFEE-HOUSE, 
 59 and 60 Threadneedle-street, has a subscription-room, with news- 
 papers from every quarter of the globe. Here the first information 
 can be obtained of the arrival and departure of steamers, packets, and 
 traders, engaged in the commerce of America, whether at Montreal 
 and Quebec, or Boston, Halifax, and New York. The heads of the chief 
 American and continental firms are on the subscription-list, and the 
 representatives of Barings, Rothschilds, and other wealthy establish- 
 ments, attend the room as regularly as 'Change ; as do also American 
 captains, and the " City Correspondents" of the morning and evening 
 press. From 300 to 400 files of newspapers are kept here, ranging 
 from America to the East or West Indies, thence to Australia, the 
 Havana, France, Germany, Holland, Russia, Spain, and Portugal. 
 (Abridged from The C%,"2d edit.) 
 
 Adjoining is the Cock Tavern, with a large Soup Room, named after the Cock, 
 which faced the north gate of the old Royal Exchange, and was long celebrated 
 for the excellence of its soups, served in silver. This house was taken down in 
 1841; when, in a claim for compensation made by the proprietor, the trade in 
 three years was proved to have been 344,720 basins of various soups viz. 166,240 
 mock turtle, 3920 giblet, 59,360 ox-tail, 31,072 bouilli, 84,128 gravy and other 
 soups: sometimes 500 basins of soup were sold in a day. 
 
 PEELE'S, 177 and 178 Fleet-street, east corner of Fetter-lane, was one 
 of the coffee-houses of the Johnsonian period; and here was preserved 
 until lately a portrait of Dr. Johnson, on the keystone of a chimney-piece, 
 stated to have been painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Peele's is noted 
 for its files of newspapers from these dates: Gazette, 1759; Times, 1780 ; 
 Morning Chronicle, 1773; Morning Post, 1773; Morning Herald, 1784; 
 
204 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Morning Advertiser, 1794 ; and the evening papers from their com- 
 mencement. The London, Provincial, Colonial, Continental, and 
 American newspapers are regularly filed here ; and Peele's is a well- 
 appointed coffee-house and hotel. 
 
 RAINBOW COFFEE-HOUSE (now a tavern), 15 Fleet-street, by the 
 Inner-Temple-gate, was the second or third Coffee-house opened in 
 London, and had its token-money, which exists. 
 
 "JAMES FARR, 1666. A rainbow. IV IN FLEET-STREET. In the centre, HIS 
 HALFPENNY. It is well known that James Farr kept the Rainbow, in Fleet- 
 street, at the time of the Great Fire, the very year of which is marked on this 
 token. Farr was a barber; and in the year 1657 was prevented by the inquest of 
 St. Dunstan's-in -the- West from making and selling 'a sort of liquor called 'cof- 
 fee,' ' which was described as a great nuisance and prejudice to the neighbourhood ! 
 The house known by the sign of the Rainbow appears to have been let off into 
 tenements, for there were books printed at this very time 'for Samuel Speed, at 
 the sign of the Rainbow, near the Inner Temple Gate, in Fleet Street.'" Trades- 
 men's Tokens, 8>c., by John Yonge Akerman, Sec. Soc. Antiquaries. 
 
 The Phoenix Fire Office was established at the Rainbow about the 
 year 1682. Coffee-houses soon became very popular : 
 
 " And who would then have thought London would ever have had near 3000 
 such nuisances, and that coffee would have been (as now) so much drank by the 
 best of quality and physicians." Hatton's New View of London, 1708. 
 
 Mr. Moncrieff, the dramatist, states, that about 1780 this house was 
 kept by his grandfather, Alexander Moncrieff, when it retained its ori- 
 ginal title of " the Rainbow Coffee-house." It has vaulted cellars, ex- 
 cellent for keeping stout, for which the house is famous ; the coffee- 
 room, which originally had a lofty bay-window at the south end, has 
 lately been handsomely decorated and furnished in the Renaissance style. 
 
 SMYRNA COFFEE-HOUSE, Pall Mall, is frequently alluded to by the 
 writers of Queen Anne's reign ; and was one of the most celebrated of 
 the west-end houses. Prior and Swift were among its most distin- 
 guished frequenters; its "seat of learning," and "cluster of wise heads." 
 
 SOMERSET COFFEE-HOUSE, 162 Strand, has a literary association, 
 from the Letters of Junius having been sometimes left at the bar. 
 
 SQUIRE'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Fulwood's-rents, Gray's Inn, was opened 
 "when coffee first came in," and was then John's Coffee-house. From 
 " Squire's " some of the Spectators are dated. The house, on the west 
 side of the court, adjoins Gray's-Inn-gate, and is of old deep-coloured 
 brick ; it has been handsome, and is roomy, with a wide staircase, but is 
 now let in tenements. 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Birchin-lane, Cornhill, was frequented by 
 Garrick and by Chatterton, as a place "of the best resort;" and here was 
 first established "the London Chess-Club." (See CHESS-CLUBS, p. 79.) 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Devereux-court, Strand, was much resorted 
 to by men of letters : among whom were Dr. Birch, who wrote the His- 
 tory of the Royal Society ; and Akenside, the poet. 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 17 Great Russell-street, Covent Garden, 
 opposite Button's, was kept by Thomas West, and was in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, and more than half a century after, a celebrated resort. 
 In 1764, it had a guinea subscription of nearly 700 members ; and in 
 1768, its suite of card, conversation, and coffee rooms, in No. 17 and the 
 two adjoining houses. Here assembled Dr. Johnson, Garrick, Murphy, 
 Dr. Dodd, Dr. Goldsmith, and Sir Joshua Reynolds; Foote, Moody, 
 and Beard; Count Bruhl and Sir Philip Francis; George Colman the 
 Elder; the Dukes of Northumberland and Montague; the Marquises 
 of Granby and Monthermor; Admiral Lord Rodney ; Henry Brougham 
 (father of Lord Brougham) ; George Steevens, Warner, and other Shak- 
 
COLLEGES. 205 
 
 sperean commentators ; and the subscription-rooms were kept up as 
 late as 1814. Some books of the Club are preserved, and the tables are 
 used, by the present tenant, Mr. Webster, the coin-dealer. 
 
 TUBK'S-HEAD COFFEE-HOUSE, Strand, was a favourite supping- 
 place of Dr. Johnson and Boswell. The house has been rebuilt as 
 " Wright's Hotel," but is now a bookseller's, No. 142. There was 
 another Turk's Head in New Palace-yard ; and in a newspaper of 1662, 
 customers and acquaintances are invited the next New Year's Day to 
 the Great Turk new coffee-house, in Exchange-alley, "where coffee 
 will be free of cost." 
 
 WILL'S COFFEE-HOUSE, on the north side of Great Russell-street, 
 and No. 1 Bow-street, Covent Garden, was originally kept by William 
 Urwin. Pepys records his first visit to Will's, 3 Feb. 1663-4, "where 
 Dryden the poet (I knew at Cambridge), and all the wits of the town, 
 and Harris the player, and Mr. Hoole of our college," with "very witty 
 and pleasant discourse." Ned Ward calls it " the Wits' Coffee-house." 
 Dryden had here his arm-chair, in winter by the fireside, in summer in 
 the balcony : the company met in the first floor, and there smoked ; and 
 the youngteaux and wits were sometimes honoured with a pinch out of 
 Dryden 's snuff-box. Old Cibber remembered Dryden : " a decent old 
 man, arbiter of critical disputes at Will's." 
 " Be sure at Will's the following day, 
 
 Lie snug, and hear what critics say." Swift's Rhapsody on Poetry. 
 Defoe wrote in 1722: "After the play, the best company generally go 
 to Tom's and Will's Coffee-houses, near adjoining, where there is play- 
 ing at picket, and the best of conversation, till midnight. Here you will 
 see blue and green ribbons and stars sitting familiarly, and talking with 
 the same freedom as if they had left their quality and degrees of dis- 
 tance at home." 
 
 There are in the metropolis about 800 Coffee-shops or Coffee-rooms; 
 the establishment of the majority of which may be traced to the cheapen- 
 ing of coffee and sugar, and to the increase of newspapers and periodi- 
 cals. About the year 1815, the London Coffee-shops did not amount 
 to twenty, and there was scarcely a Coffee-house where coffee could be 
 had under 6d. a cup ; it may now be had at Coffee-shops at from Id to 
 3d. Some of these shops have from 700 to 1600 customers daily ; 40 
 copies of the daily newspapers are taken in, besides provincial and foreign 
 papers, and magazines Cooked meat is also to be had at Coffee-shops, 
 at one of which three cwt. of ham and beef are sometimes sold weekly. 
 
 Excellent coffee may be had at Groom's, the confectioner's, 16 Fleet- 
 street, at 3d. per cup ; also at Purssell's, 78 and 80 Cornhill ; and Ver- 
 rey's, 229 Regent-street. At Ries's Divan, 102 Strand, and at Kilpack's, 
 42 King-street, Covent Garden, coffee may be enjoyed with a cigar. 
 
 COLLEGES. 
 
 ST. BAKNABAS COLLEGE, Queen-street, Pimlico, a church, schools, 
 and residentiary house for the clergy, built 1846-50, in the first Pointed 
 (Early English) style (Cundy, architect). The schools are for about 600 
 boys, girls, and infants ; and the residentiary house is for four clergy- 
 men, who attend to the parochial duties of the district, minister in the 
 church, teach in the schools, and superintend the twelve choristers. 
 The schools were opened on St. Barnabas day, 1847, and the church 
 in 1850. (See CHURCHES, page 119,*) The freehold site of the College 
 was given by the first Marquis of Westminster, and is in the poorest 
 part of the district. The College was built by subscription, to which 
 
 * For W. G. read W. J. E. Bennett. 
 
206 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Rev. Mr. Bennett, then incumbent of the district, contributed the 
 bulk of his fortune, and the most zealous pastoral care. 
 
 CHURCH OF ENGLAND METROPOLITAN TRAINING INSTITUTION, 
 Highbury (late Highbury College), was instituted 1849, to train pious 
 persons as masters and mistresses of juvenile schools connected with 
 the Established Church, " upon principles Scriptural, Evangelical, and 
 
 Protestant." 
 
 CHURCH MISSIONARY COLLEGE, 12 Barnsbury-place, Upper Is- 
 lington, is an important branch of the Church Missionary Society for 
 Africa and the East ; and here the students are trained for future mis- 
 sionaries. Among the early founders of this Society were Wilberforce, 
 Scott, Cecil, Newton, \ r enn, and Pratt : it was chiefly matured at the 
 "Eclectic Society" assembling then and now at the vestry of St. John's 
 Chapel, Bedford-row. The annual cost of the College operations ave- 
 rages 100,000?., or about WOOL for every station. (See Low's Charities 
 of London, pp. 412-13.) 
 
 COLLEGE OF CHEMISTRY (ROYAL), 16 Hanover-square, was founded 
 in 1845, for instruction in Practical Chemistry at a moderate expense, 
 and for the general advancement of Chemical Science. The first stone 
 of the three new laboratories was laid by Prince Albert, President of 
 the College, June 16, 1846; James Lockyer, architect. The Oxford- 
 street front has a rusticated ground-floor, and an upper story decorated 
 with six Ionic columns. The students' fee for working daily in the 
 session is lol. ; four days in the week, 121. ; three days, Wl. ; two days, 
 7l. ; one day, 51. : hours, 9 to 5. Anniversary, first Monday in June. 
 
 COLLEGE FOR CIVIL ENGINEERS, on the banks of the Thames, at 
 Putney, was established here in August 1840, in Putney House and 
 the Cedars, which were fitted up for the institution ; the offices con- 
 verted into a chemical laboratory and lecture-room, workshops, and an 
 hospital ; and a factory, with engine-shaft, smithy, and foundry, was 
 added. The College buildings also include a chapel, hall, council-room, 
 &c. In the ground (22 acres) are conducted the practical operations of 
 the surveying and civil engineering departments ; and for the illustra- 
 tion of lectures, there are tunnel works, a lime-kiln, c. There are 
 also a gymnasium and cricket and racket grounds ; but boating is the 
 favourite recreation. The students qualify for architects and surveyors, 
 as well as civil engineers ; and others for the army and navy, and co- 
 lonial service : they wear a naval blue uniform and forage-cap. The 
 College is gratuitously open to visitors, and in July is the annual dis- 
 tribution of prizes. The efficiency of the pupils has" been attested in a 
 late survey of the City of London, for the improvement of the City 
 sewers. The College is proprietary, was originally founded in 1838, 
 and commenced operations at Kentish Town. 
 
 COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS (ROYAL), corner of Pall Mall East and 
 Trafalgar-square, designed by Sir R. Smirke, R. A., was opened June 25, 
 1825, with a Latin oration by the President, Sir Henry Halford. The 
 style is Grecian-Ionic, with an elegant hexastyle Ionic portico. The 
 interior is sumptuous. In the dining-room are portraits of Dr. Ha- 
 mey, the Commonwealth physician ; of Dr. Freind, imprisoned in the 
 Tower ; and of Sir Edmund King, who bled Charles It., in a fit, with- 
 out consulting the royal physicians, and who was promised for the ser- 
 vice 1000/. by the Council, which was never paid. In the oak-panelled 
 Censors' Room is a portrait of Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale : of Li- 
 nacre, surmounted by the College arms in oak, and richly-emblazoned 
 shield : of the thoughtful Sir Thomas Browne, who wrote Religio Me- 
 dici; of the good-humoured Sir Samuel Garth, by Knellerj and of 
 
COLLEGES. 207 
 
 Cardinal Wolsey, Henry VIII. (after Holbein), and Andreas Vesalius, 
 the Italian anatomist ; other portraits ; and a marble bust of Sir Henry 
 Halford. In the Library, lighted by three beautiful lanterns, is a fine 
 portrait of Radcliffe, by Kneller ; and of Harvey, by Jansen. Here is a 
 gallery filled with cases, containing preparations, including some of the 
 nerves and blood-vessels, by Harvey, and used by him in his lectures on 
 the discovery of the circulation of the blood. Adjoining is a small 
 theatre, or lecture-room, where are busts of George IV., by Chantrey ; 
 Dr. Mead, by Roubiliac; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton; Harvey, by Schee- 
 makers ; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrey ; Dr. Babington, by Behnes. Here 
 also is a picture of Hunter lecturing on Anatomy before Royal Acade- 
 micians (portraits), by Zoffany ; besides a collection of Physicians' canes. 
 The whole may be seen by the order of a physician, Fellow of the Col- 
 lege. The Harveian Oration (in Latin) is delivered annually by a Fel- 
 low, usually on June 25. 
 
 In the Library is a copy of the Homer published at Florence in 1488, an im- 
 mortal work for this early period of typography : in the whiteness and strength of 
 the paper, the fineness of the character, the elegant disposition of the matter, the 
 exact distance between the lines, the large margin, and various ornaments. 
 
 The College of Physicians was founded in 1518, by Linacre, physician to Henry 
 VII. and VIII., who lived in Knight-Rider-street, and there received his friends, 
 Erasmus, Latimer, and Sir Thomas More. Linacre was the first President of the 
 College, and the members met at his house, which he bequeathed to them ; and 
 the estate is still the property of the College. Thence they removed to a house 
 in Amen Corner, where Harvey lectured on his great discovery, and built in the 
 College garden a Museum, upon the site of the present Stationers' Hall. The 
 old College and Museum being destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, the members 
 met for a time at the President's house, until Wren built for them a new College 
 in Warwick-lane, Newgate-street, opened in 1689 : it has a large entrance-porch, 
 is octangular in plan, and is surmounted by a dome, as described by Garth in 
 his satire on the quarrel between the Apothecaries'^Company and the College : 
 " Not far from that most celebrated placet 
 Where angry Justice shews her awful f^ce, I 
 Where little villains must submit to fate/ ' > I c A 
 
 That great ones may enjoy the world in state, 
 There stands a Dome, majestic to th,e sight, 
 And sumptuous arches bear its oval height; I * i < * t 
 A golden Globe, plac'd high with artful skill/ ft 1 1 N ( 'T Y < 
 Seems to the distant sight a gilded pill." The Dispensary. 
 " The theatre was amphitheatrical in plan, and one of ^he best, that can be ima- 
 gined for seeing, hearing, and the due classification of jfe ftudtenjts, n)l lot tjie 
 display of anatomical demonstrations or philosophical experiments upon aUabJe ' 
 in the centre of the arena, of any building of its size in existence." (Elmes.) This 
 portion is now occupied as a meat-market, and the other College buildings by 
 braziers and brass-founders. The buildings comprise a lofty hall, with a magnifi- 
 cent staircase ; a dining-room, with a ceiling elaborately enriched with foliage and 
 j flowers in stucco, and carved oak chimney-piece and gallery ; and in the court are 
 i statues of Charles II. and Sir John Cutler, the latter voted in acknowledgment 
 of a sum of money presented by Sir John to the College, but attempted to be 
 recovered by his executors. The inscription beneath the statue, 
 
 " Omnis Cutleri cedat Labor Amphitheatre," 
 
 has, however, been consistently removed. Here the Fellows of the College met 
 until 1825. In the garrets were dried the herbs for the use of the Dispensary. 
 
 COLLEGE or PRECEPTORS (the), 28 'Bloomsbury-square, a proprie- 
 tary institution, established 1847, to elevate the character of the profes- 
 sion of Teachers, irrespective of distinctions of sects and parties ; and to 
 grant certificates and diplomas to candidates duly qualified, after exa- 
 
 * Old Bailey. Garth thus describes the College antagonist, Apothecaries' Hall : 
 " Nigh where Fleet Ditch descends in sable streams, 
 To wash his sooty Naiads in the Thames, 
 There stands a structure on a rising hill, 
 Where tyros take their freedom out to kill." 
 
208 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 mination. There is a ladies' department of the College, managed by a 
 committee of ladies. 
 
 COLLEGE OF SURGEONS (ROYAL), on the south side of Lincoln's-Inn- 
 fields, was originally built by Dance, R.A., for the College, who re- 
 moved here from their Hall on the site of the New Sessions- House, Old 
 Bailey, on their incorporation by royal charter in 1800. It was almost 
 entirely rebuilt by Barry, R. A., in 1835-37, when the stone front was 
 extended from 84 to 108*feet, and a noble Ionic entablature added, with 
 this inscription : JEoES COLLEGII CHIRVRGOBVM LONDIKENSIS < 
 DIPLOMATS- REGIO CORPORATI' A.D. MDCCC. 
 
 The interior contains two Museums, a Theatre, Library, and ves- 
 tibule with screens of Ionic columns. On the staircase-landing are 
 busts of Cheselden and Sir W. Banks. In the Library are portraits of 
 Sir Caesar Hawkins, by Hogarth ; Serjeant-Surgeon Wiseman (Charles 
 II.'s time); and the cartoon of Holbein's picture of the granting of the 
 charter to the Barber -Surgeons. In the Council Room (where sits the 
 Court of Examiners) are Reynolds 's celebrated portrait of John Hun- 
 ter, and other pictures : bust of John Hunter, by Flaxman ; of Cline, 
 Sir W. Blizard, Abernethy, and George III. and George IV., by Chan- 
 trey; of Pott, by Hollins; and Samuel Cooper, by Butler. The Mu- 
 seum, with Hunter's collection for its nucleus, was erected in 1836; 
 and the College has since been enlarged by adding to it the site of the 
 Portugal-street Theatre, late Copeland's China Warehouse, taken down 
 in 1848. (See MUSEUMS.) In the Theatre is annually delivered the Hun- 
 terian Oration (in Latin), by a Fellow of the College, on Feb. 14, John 
 Hunter's birthday. 
 
 DULWICH COLLEGE, in the pleasant hamlet of Dulwich, exactly 
 5 miles south of Cornhill, was built and endowed in 1613-19, by Edward 
 Alley n, " bred a stage-player :" he became a celebrated actor, erected 
 the Fortune Theatre, and with Henslowe, was co-proprietor of the 
 Paris Bear- Garden at Bankside. Alleyn named the foundation at Dul- 
 wich "the College of God's Gift ;" for a master and warden, four fellows, 
 six poor brethren, six sisters, and twelve scholars ; and thirty out-mem- 
 bers lodged in almshouses. By the founder's statutes, the master and 
 warden should bear the name of Alleyn, or Allen, and both continue un- 
 married, or be removed from the College; yet the first master and war- 
 den ( Alleyn's kinsmen) were both married, and Alleyn himself was twice 
 married. He bequeathed his books and musical instruments, and his 
 " seal-ring with his arms, to be worn by the master." The gross annual 
 income of the College is about 8000Z., or nearly tenfold the value settled 
 by the founder. The only eminent master or' warden was John Allen, 
 one of the earliest writers in the Edinburgh Review. Little of the old 
 buildings remains in the present structure, three sides of a quadrangle; 
 the entrance gates are curiously wrought with the founder's arms, crest, 
 and motto " God's Gift." In the centre is the Chapel, with alow tower; 
 the altar-piece is a copy, by Julio Romano, of Raphael's Transfigura- 
 tion; the font is inscribed with a Greek anagram, the same read either 
 way. Alleyn (d. 1626) is buried here. Adjoining the College is "the 
 Grammar-school of God's Gift College," built by Barry, R.A., in 1842; 
 and the Dulwich Gallery of Pictures, famed for its Cuyps and Murillos. 
 
 In the College and Master's Apartments are several portraits, including Alleyn 
 the founder, full-length, in a black gown; also left by Cartwright, player and 
 bookseller, 1687, portraits of "the Actors" Richard Burbage, Xat. Field, Richard 
 Perkins, Thomas Bond, &c. ; and of the poet Drayton ; Lovelace the poet, and 
 " Althea " with her hair dishevelled; a Lady in a richly-flowered dress, large 
 ruff, and pearls ; and a Merchant and his Lady on panel, their hands re?ting 
 npon a human skull placed on a tomb, below which is a naked corpse. The Library 
 chimney-piece is made out of" the upper part of the Queen's barge," purchased 
 
COLLEGES: GRESHAM. 209 
 
 by Alleyn in 1618. The books number about 4200 volumes: those relating to the 
 theatre have been exchanged or filched away; and a very valuable collection of 
 old plays was exchanged by the College with Garrick for modern works, and 
 eventually purchased for the British Museum. The College possesses an original 
 letter written by Alleyn to his first wife, Joan Woodward, from Chelmsford, in 
 1593, when he was one of "the Lord's strange Players." Here also is the MS. 
 Diary and Account-Book of Philip Heuslowe, printed by the Shakspeare Society ; 
 and in the old carved Treasury Chest, a memorandum-book in Alleyn's hand- 
 writing; besides other " Dulwich papers." See Collier's Memoirs of Alleyn. 
 
 When the office of Master of the College becomes vacant, the Warden imme- 
 diately succeeds to it, and a new Warden is elected by the Master, the four Fel- 
 lows, and six Assistants; the latter being two churchwardens from each of the 
 parishes of St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate; St. Luke's, Old-Street-road ; and St. 
 Saviour's, Southwark. At the last election, in 1851, the ceremony was as fol- 
 lows : Divine service having been performed in the chapel, and the names of 
 the candidates having been previously written on a sheet of paper, the Assistants 
 severally recorded their votes in favour of two candidates; the Fellows and Master 
 then registered their votes; and the Master pronounced the numbers to be in 
 favour of John Hensleigh Allen, one of the two candidates selected by the Col- 
 lege; and Richard William Allen, the candidate named by the Assistants. These 
 two gentlemen were then called to the front of the altar, and the Master having 
 put into a box two rolls of paper tied with red tape, on one of which were written 
 the words, "God's gift," and having shaken them thrice, called upon Mr. Richard 
 William Allen, who was by a few months the senior, to select one. This he did, 
 and Mr. John Hensleigh Allen took the other. Each paper was then unrolled, 
 and the words, " God's gift," were found on the roll taken by Mr. Richard Wil- 
 liam Allen, the nominee of the Assistants. It was stated by the solicitor of the 
 College, that the course pursued by the Assistants on this occasion had not been 
 adopted for the last seventy years. In 1851, the Archbishop of Canterbury, as 
 official Visitor of the College, extended the education at the School to surveying, 
 chemistry, engineering, and the allied sciences. 
 
 GRESHAM COLLEGE, Basinghall-street, corner of Cateaton-street, 
 a handsome stone edifice, designed by George Smith, was opened Nov. 
 2, 1843, for the Gresham Lectures. It is in the enriched Roman style, 
 and has a Corinthian entrance-portico. The interior contains a large 
 library, and professors' rooms ; and on the first floor a lecture-room, 
 or theatre, to hold 500 persons. The building cost upwards of 7000J. 
 The Lectures, on Astronomy, Physic, Law, Divinity, Rhetoric, Geo- 
 metry, and Music, are here read to the public gratis, during " Term 
 Time," daily, except Sundays; in Latin, at 12 noon; in English, at 1 
 p.m. ; the Geometry and Music Lectures at 7 p.m. Gresham College 
 was founded by Sir Thomas Gresham, who, in 1575, gave his mansion- 
 house and the rents arising from the Royal Exchange, which on the 
 death of Lady Gresham, in 1597, were vested in the Corporation of 
 London and the Mercers' Company, who were conjointly to nominate 
 seven professors, to lecture successively, one on each day of the week; 
 their salaries being 50L per annum : a more liberal remuneration than 
 Henry VIII. had appointed for the Regius Professors of Divinity at Ox- 
 ford and Cambridge, and equivalent to 400Z. or 500?. at the present day. 
 The Lectures commenced June 1597, in Gresham's mansion, which, with 
 almshottses and gardens, extended from Bishopsgate-street westward 
 into Broad-street. Here the Royal Society originated in 1645, and met 
 (with interruptions) until 1710. The buildings were then neglected, and 
 in 1768 were taken down, and the Excise Office built upon their site ; 
 and the reading of the Lectures was removed to a room on the south- 
 east side of the Royal Exchange ; the lecturers' salaries being raised 
 I to 100Z. each, in place of the lodging they had in the old College, of 
 which there is a view, by Vertue, in Ward's Lives of the Gresham Pro- 
 \ fessors, 1740.* On the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange, the Gresham 
 Committee provided a separate edifice for the College, as above. 
 
 * In Vertue's print, at the entrance archway are two figures, designed for Dr. 
 Woodward and Dr. Mead, Professors, who havLig quarrelled and drawn swords. 
 
210 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Above the entrance portico are sculptured the following arms : 
 City of London. Gresham. Mercers' Company. 
 
 Arg. a cross, and in Arg. a chev. erm. Gu. a demi-virgin couped below the 
 the dexter chief a betw. three mul- shoulders, issuing from clouds, all 
 sword erect gu. lets pierced sa. ppr. veiled or crowned with an 
 
 eastern coronet of the last, her 
 hair dishevelled, all within a bor- 
 dure nebuly arg. 
 
 HERALDS' COLLEGE (College of Arms), east side of Benet's-hill, 
 Doctors' Commons, was built in 1683, from the design of Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, upon the site of the former College (Derby House), de- 
 stroyed in the Great Fire ; but all the valuable documents and books 
 were fortunately saved. Sir William Dugdale, then Norroy King- of - 
 Arms, built the north-west corner at his own expense : the hollow 
 arch of the gateway on Benet's-hill is a curiosity. On the north side 
 of the court-yard is the grand hall, in which the Court of Chivalry 
 was formerly' held. On the right is the old library, opening into a 
 fire-proof record-room, built in 1844 : it contains the MS. collection of 
 Heralds' visitations, records of grants of arms, royal licenses, official 
 funeral certificates, and public ceremonials. Here, too, are several 
 portraits: among which are Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King-at-Arms ; 
 John Anstis, Garter ; Peter Le Neve, Norroy ; John Talbot, Earl of 
 Shrewsbury, &c. In the grand hall is the judicial seat of the Earl 
 Marshal; "but the chair is empty, and the sword unswayed." On the 
 south side of the quadrangle is a paved terrace, on the wall of which 
 are two escutcheons; one bearing the arms (and legs) of Man, ard the 
 other the Eagle's claw both ensigns of the house of Stanley, and de- 
 noting the site of old Derby House, though they are not ancient. 
 
 The College of Arms received the first charter of incorporation from Richard 
 III., who gave them, for the residence and assembling of the Heralds, Poulteney's 
 Inn, "a righte fayre and stately house," in Coldharbour. They were dispossessed 
 of this property by Henry VII., when they removed to the Hospital of Our Lady 
 of Rounceval, at Charing Cross, where now stands Northumberland House, They 
 next removed to Derby or Stanley House, on St. Benet's-hill, granted by Queen 
 Mary, July 18, 1555, to Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King-of-Arms, and to the 
 other Heralds and Pursuivants at Arms, and their successors. The service of the 
 Pursuivants, and of the Heralds, and of the whole College, is used in mar- 
 shalling and ordering Coronations, Marriages, Christenings, Funerals, Interviews, 
 Feasts of Kings and Princes, Cavalcades, Shows, Justs, Tournaments, Combats, 
 before the Constable and Marshal, &c. Also they take care of the Coats of 
 Arms, and of the Genealogies of the Nobility and Gentry. Anciently, the Kings- 
 at-Arms were solemnly crowned before the sovereign, and took an oath; during 
 which the Earl Marsha) poured a bowl of wine on his head, put on him a richly- 
 embroidered velvet Coat of Arms, a Collar of Esses, a jewel and gold chain, and 
 a crown of gold. Chamberlayne's Magnte Britannia Notitia, 1726. 
 The College has, since 1622, consisted of thirteen officers '.Kings t 
 Garter, Principal ; Clarencieux ; Norroy. Heralds : Lancaster, Somer- 
 set, Richmond, Windsor, York, Chester. Pursuivants : Rouge Croix, 
 Blue Mantle, Portcullis, Blue Dragon. These hold their places by ap- 
 pointment of the Duke of Norfolk, as Hereditary Earl Marshal. Few 
 rulers have been insensible to the pageantry of arms : even the royalty- 
 hating Cromwell appointed his Kings-at-Arms; and the heraldic ex- 
 penses of his funeral were between 400Z. and 500Z. The Court of 
 Chivalry was nearly as oppressive as the detestable Star Chamber ; for 
 we read of its imprisoning and ruining a merchant-citizen for calling 
 a swan a goose; and fining Sir George Markham 10,OOOZ. for saying, 
 after he had horse- whipped the saucy huntsman of Lord Darcy, that if 
 
 Mead obtained the advantage, and commanded "Woodward to beg his life : " No, 
 Doctor, that I will not, till I am your patient," was the witty reply; but he 
 yielded, and is here shewn tendering his sword to Mead. 
 
COLLEGES: HERALDS'. 211 
 
 his master justified his insolence, he would horse-whip him also. The 
 severest punishment of the Court is the degradation from the honour 
 of knighthood, of which only three instances are recorded in three cen- 
 turies : this consisted in breaking and defacing the knight's sword and 
 gilt spurs, and pronouncing him u an infamous errant knave." In our 
 time, the banner of a Knight of the Bath has been pulled down by the 
 heralds, and kicked out of Henry VII.'s Chapel at "Westminster. The 
 heralds' visitations were liable to strange abuses, and ceased with 
 the seventeenth century. Another trusty service of the Officers-at- 
 Arms is the bearing of letters and messages to sovereign princes and 
 persons in authority : these officers were the " Chivalers of Armes," or 
 Knights Riders, the original King's Messengers; and adjoining the 
 College is Knight-Klder-street. 
 
 Among the Curiosities of the College are, the Warwick Roll, with 
 figures of all the Earls of Warwick from the Conquest to Richard III. ; 
 a Tournament Roll of Henry VIII. 's time; a sword, dagger, and tur- 
 quois ring, said to have belonged to James IV. of Scotland, who fell at 
 Flodden-field; portrait of the warrior Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, from 
 his tomb in Old St. Paul's ; pedigree of the Saxon kings, from Adam, with 
 beautiful pen-and-ink illustrations (temp. Henry VIII.) ; and a volume 
 in the handwriting of " the learned Camden," created Clarenceux in 
 1597. Among the other officers of note were Sir William Dugdale, 
 Garter ; Elias Ashmole, Windsor Herald, who wrote the History of 
 the Order of the Garter ; John Anstis, Garter ; Francis Sandt'ord, 
 Lancaster Herald, who wrote an excellent Genealogical History of 
 England ; Sir John Vanbrugh, who was made Clarenceux as a compli- 
 ment for building Castle Howard, but sold the situation for 2000/. ; 
 Francis Grose, Richmond Herald, the convivial writer on British Anti- 
 quities ; and Edmund Lodge, Lancaster Herald, who has given his name 
 to a "Peerage," and has left us "Portraits of Illustrious British Per- 
 sonages." (See the excellent paper by J. R. Planche, F.S.A., in Knight's 
 London, vol. vi.) 
 
 A Grant of Arms is thus obtained: The applicant employs any member he 
 pleases of the Heralds' Office, and through him, presents a memorial to the Earl 
 Marshal, setting forth that he the memorialist is not entitled to arms, or cannot 
 prove his right to such ; and praying that his Grace will issue his warrant to the 
 Kings of Arms authorising them to grant and confirm to him due and proper 
 armorial ensigns, to be borne according to the laws of heraldry by him and hia 
 descendants. This memorial is presented, and a warrant is issued by the Earl 
 Marshal, under which a patent is made out, exhibiting in the corner a painting 
 of the armorial ensigns granted, and describing in official terms the proceedings 
 that have taken place, and the correct blazon of the arms. This patent is regis- 
 tered in the books of the Heralds' College, and receives the signatures of the 
 Garter and one of the Provincial Kings of Arms.* Thus an " Armiger " is made. 
 The fees on a Grant of Arms amount to seventy-five guineas ; an ordinary search 
 ~f the records is 5s. ; a general search, one guinea. Arms that are not held under 
 Grant must descend to the bearer from an ancestor recorded in the Herald's 
 isitations. No prescription, however long, will confer a right to a coat-armour. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE AND SCHOOL, Somerset House, extend from the 
 mncipal entrance in the Strand to the east wing of the river-front, 
 designed by Sir William Chambers, but left unfinished by him; its com- 
 pletion by the College being one of the conditions of the grant "of the 
 site : here reside the Principal and Professors. The College facade, 
 designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R. A., is 304 feet in length, and consists 
 of a centre, decorated with Corinthian columns and pilasters ; and two 
 wings with pilasters, upon a basement of piers supporting arches, 
 which extend the whole length of the building. On the interior ground- 
 
 * If the grantee be resident in any place north of the Trent, his patent is 
 igned by Garter and Norroy Kings of Arms; if he reside south of that river, the 
 signatures are those of Garter and Clarenceux Kings of Arms. 
 
212 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 floor are the theatres or lecture-rooms, and the hall, with two grand 
 staircases, which ascend to the Museum and Library ; the Chapel occu- 
 pying the centre. Over the lofty entrance-arch in the Strand are the 
 arms of the College; motto, " Sancte et sapienter." (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 King's College and School are proprietary. The College was founded in 1828, 
 for the education of youth of the metropolis in the principles of the Established 
 Church. There are five departments: 1. Theological; 2. General Literature; 
 3. Applied Sciences; 4. Medical; 5. The School. The age for admission to the 
 latter is from 9 to 16 ; and each Proprietor can nominate two pupils to the School, 
 or one to the School and one to the College at the same time. The first Con- 
 ference of Degrees by the University of London took place in the hall of King's 
 College, May 1, 1850. In connexion with the Medical Schools has been estab- 
 lished King's College Hospital, in Portugal-street, -Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 
 
 ST. MARK'S TRAINING COLLEGE, Chelsea, was established for train- 
 ing schoolmasters for the National Society. The College, fronting 
 King's-road, is of Italian design ; the Chapel, facing the Fulham-road, is 
 Anglo-Norman ; to the west is an octagonal Practising School ; and the 
 grounds contain about 15 acres. The term of training is three years : 
 it comprises, with general education, the industrial system, as the busi- 
 ness of male servants in the house, managing the farm-produce, and 
 gardening. Still, the religious service of the Chapel is, as it were, the 
 keystone of the system of the College. (See CHAPELS, p. 171.) 
 
 There are also other Training Institutions connected with the National Society : 
 at Battersea, for schoolmasters; "Wliitelands, Chelsea, for schoolmistresses; and 
 Manchester-buildings, Westminster, for schoolmasters and mistresses. There is 
 likewise the Kneller Hall Training School,* at Whitton, Middlesex, to train 
 masters for schools of Parochial Unions, or otherwise connected with the civil 
 government; the Church of England MetropoMtan Training Institution, High- 
 bury-Park; the Home and Colonial Society, Gray's-Inn-road ; and the British'' 
 and Foreign Society's Central Schools, Borough-road , all which institutions are* 
 greatly improving our National System of Education. One of the most interesting* 
 examples is the Model Schools of the Home and Colonial Society, Gray's-Inn-road,, 
 which are open during the usual school hours for the inspection of the public ;, 
 but on Tuesdays, from half- past 2 to 4, the complete working of the institution, 
 may be seen, from the first to the last step, under its own teachers. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE, St. John's Wood, was commenced building in 1850, 
 when the first stone was laid, May 11, by the Rev. Dr. John Pye Smith,, 
 known as a divine, and as a man of science from his work on Scripture and, 
 Geology. The building was completed in 1851, and opened October 8. 
 It has been erected by the Independent Dissenters for the education of 
 their ministers, and is founded on the union of Homerton Old College 
 and Coward and Highbury Colleges. The classes are divided into two 
 faculties, Arts and Theology ; the former open to lay students, and 
 having chairs of Latin and Greek, mathematics, moral and mental phi-, 
 losophy, and natural history. The building, of Bath stone, designed by 
 Emmett, in the Tudor (Henry VII.) style, is situated about a mile and a 
 half north of Regent's-park, between the Finchley-road and Bellsize- 
 lane. The frontage is 270 feet, having a central tower 80 feet high. 
 The interior dressings are of Caen stone, and the fittings of oak ; some 
 of the ceilings are of wrought wood- work, and the windows of elaborate 
 beauty. The main building contains lecture-room, council-room, labo- 
 ratory, museum, and students' day-rooms; at the north end is the Prin- 
 cipal's residence, and at the south a library of 20,000 volumes. 
 
 ST. PETEK'S COLLEGE (WESTMINSTER SCHOOL), Dean's-yard, 
 Westminster, was originally founded by Henry VIII., on the remodel- 
 
 * Kneller Hall (between Hounslew and Twickenham) was formerly in the 
 possession of Sir Godfrey Kneller, who pulled down the manor-house and erected 
 a new house on the same site, as inscribed upon a stone; " The building of this 
 house was begua by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bart., A.D. 1709." It had a sumptuously 
 painted staircase, by Kneller's own hand. The Hall has been almost wholly 
 taken down, and the Training School built upon its site. 
 
COLLEGES: ST. PETER'S, WESTMINSTER. 213 
 
 ling of the Abbey establishment ; but inadequately supported until, in 
 lotiO, Elizabeth restored its revenues, and the foundation of an Upper 
 and Lower Master, and 40 scholars, and gave the present statutes. 
 The College consists of a Dean, 12 Prebendaries, 12 Almsmen, and the 
 above 40 " Queen's Scholars," with a Master and Usher ; maintained, 
 since the Restoration, by the common revenues of St. Peter's Colle- 
 giate Church (the Abbey), at 12,000?. a-year. These scholars wear a 
 cap and gown ; and there are four " Bishop's boys," educated free, who 
 wear a purple gown, and have 60. annually amongst them. Besides 
 this foundation, a great number of sons of the nobility and gentry are 
 educated here. Of the Queen's Scholars, an examination takes place on 
 the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, when four are elected to Tri- 
 nity College, Cambridge, and four to Christ Church, Oxford ; scholar- 
 ships, about QOL a-year. The scholars from the 4th, 5th, and Shell 
 .Forms "stand out" in Latin, Greek, and grammatical questionings, to 
 fill up the vacancies, on the Wednesday before Ascension Day ; when the 
 " Captain of the Election" is chaired round Dean's-yard. There are 
 several other funds available to needful scholars ; and the whole founda- 
 tion and school is managed by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. 
 
 Any boy may enter at Westminster School : the entire annual charges (in- 
 cluding hoard and lodging) are from 76 to 83 guineas ; or if he board and lodge at 
 home, 25 guineas. From the Boarders are elected the Queen's Scholars, who, 
 after four years' residence, have the chance of obtaining good scholarships ; they 
 are charged about 40/. a year. 
 
 The entrance to the school-court, Little Dean's-yard, is under a 
 low groined gateway : the school-porch is said to have been designed 
 by Inigo Jones ; and adjoining is the paved racket-court. The vener- 
 able School was oace the dormitory of the monks : it is 96 feet long and 
 34 feet in breadth, and has a massive open chestnut roof; at one end is 
 the Head Master's table, and four tiers of forms are ranged along the 
 east and western walls.* The Upper and Lower Schools are divided by 
 a bar, which formerly bore a curtain : " over this bar on Shrove Tues- 
 day, at 11 o'clock, the College cook, attended by a verger, having made 
 his obeisance to the Masters, proceeds to toss a pancake into the upper 
 school, once a warning to proceed to dinner in the Hall." (Walcott's 
 Westminster, p. 176.) Upon the walls are inscribed many great names; 
 in the library is preserved part of the form on which Dryden once sat, 
 and on which his autograph is cut. 
 
 In the Census Alumnorum, or list of foundation scholars, are Bishops Overall 
 and Ravis, translators of the Bible; Hakluyt, collector of Voyages; Gunter, in- 
 ventor of the Scale; " Master George Herbert;" tiie poets Cowley and Dryden; 
 South; Locke; Bishops Atterbury, Spratt, and Pearce ; Prior and Stepney, poets 
 and statesmen; Rowe and " Sweet vinery Bourne," the poets; Churchill, the satir- 
 ist ; Warren Hastings; Colman the Elder; Everard Home, surgeon ; Dr. Drury, of 
 Harrow School, &c. 
 
 Among the other eminent persons educated here are Lord Burghley ; Ben Jon- 
 son ; Nat Lee ; Sir Christopher Wren ; Jasper Mayne, the poet ; Barton Booth, 
 the actor; Blackmore, Browne, Dyer, Hammond, Aaron Hill, Cowper, and 
 Southey, the poets; HorneTooke; Gibbon, the historian; Cumberland, the dra- 
 matist; Colman the Younger; Sir Francis Burdett ; Harcourt, Archbishop of 
 York ; the Marquis of Lansdowne ; Lord John Russell; the Marquis of Anglesey ; 
 Sir John Cam Hobhouse (Lord Broughton), &c. 
 
 * The basement story beneath the School serves as an undercroft, has semi- 
 circular groined Saxon arches, considered to be of the time of Edward the Con- 
 fessor, whose steward, Hugolin, was ouried here. Here is deposited the standard 
 money, which, when there is a new Master of the Mint, is taken out to be carried 
 to the Exchequer, for a trial of the Pix. The outer doors have seven locks, each 
 lock a different key, and each key a different possessor; s-o that the seven hold- 
 ers assemble on the above occasion. T-he last trial of the Pix was in 1851. on 
 the admission of Sir John F. W. Herschel, Bart., to the Mastership of the Mint, 
 which office was held by Sir Isaac Newton from 1699 until 1728. 
 
214 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Among the eminent Masters are Camden, " the Pausanias of England," who 
 had Ben Jonson for a scholar; and Dr. Busby, who had Dryden ; and who, out of 
 the bench of Bishops, taught sixteen. 
 
 The College Hall, originally the Abbot's refectory, was built by 
 Abbot Litlington, temp. Edward III. : its dimensions are 47 feet by 27 1 
 feet in width ; the floor is paved with chequered Turkish marble ; at the 
 south end is a musicians' gallery, uow used as a pantry, and behind are 
 butteries and hatches ; upon the north side, upon a dais,' is the high table ; 
 those below, of chestnut-wood, are said to have been formed out of the 
 wreck of the Armada ; and the roof-timbers spring from carved corbels,; 
 with angels bearing shields of the Confessor's and Abbots' arms. A 
 small louvre rises above the central hearth, upon which, in winter, a 
 charcoal fire used to burn. The Library is a modern Italian room, and 
 contains several memorials of the attachment of " Westminsters." The 
 old dormitory, built in 1380, was the granary of the monastery ; and 
 was replaced by the present dormitory in 1722, from the designs of the 
 Earl of Burlington : it is 161 feet long by 25 feet broad, and its walls 
 are inscribed with names. Here Latin plays are represented upon the 
 second Thursday in December, and the Monday before and after that 
 day ; those acted of late years were the Andria, Phormio, Eunuchus t 
 and Adelphi, of Terence, with Latin prologue and epilogue.* Warton 
 mentions, " this liberal exercise is yet preserved, and in the spirit of 
 true classical purity, at the College of Westminster." The scenery was 
 designed by Garrick ; the modern dresses formerly used were exchanged 
 for Greek costume in 1839. Boating is a favourite recreation of the 
 Westminsters, who have often contested the championship of the Thames 
 with Eton. On May 4, 1837, the Westminsters won a match at Eton ; 
 when, by desire of William IV., the victors visited Windsor Castle, and 
 were there received by the good-natured king. 
 
 QUEEN'S COLLEGE, LONDON, 67 Harley- street, was established 
 1848, for general female education, and for granting to Governesses 
 certificates of qualification. The instruction is given in lectures by 
 gentlemen connected with King's College, and other professors ; there*, 
 are also preparatory classes and evening classes, the latter gratuitous :; 
 the whole superintended by ladies visitors. 
 
 SION COLLEGE, London Wall, is built on the site of the Priory of 
 Elsinge Spital, and consists of a college for the clergy of London, and 
 almshouses for twenty poor persons, founded 1623, by the will of Dr. 
 Thomas White, Vicar of St. Dunstan's-in-the-West ; to which one of his 
 executors, the Rev. John Simson, Rector of St. Olave's, Hart-street, 
 added a library. " Here," says Defoe, " expectants may lodge till they 
 are provided with houses in the several parishes in which they serve 
 cure;" and the Fellows of the College are the incumbents of parishes 
 within the City and Liberties of London. The library is their property : 
 a third of the books was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, which con- 
 sumed great part of the College. The collection contains about 35,000 
 volumes, mostly theological, among which are the Jesuits' books seized 
 in 1679. By the Copyright Act, 8 Anne, c. 19, the library received a 
 gratuitous copy of every published work till 1836, when this privilege 
 was commuted for a Treasury grant of 363?. a-year, now its chief main- 
 tenance. It is open to the public by an order from one of the Fellows, 
 daily from 10 to 4 ; but books are not allowed to be taken out. Here 
 are several pictures, including a costume-portrait of Mrs. James, a citi- 
 zen's wife in the reign of William and Mary. 
 
 * These performances superseded the old Mysteries and Moralities in the 
 reign of Queen Mary, when the boy-actors were chiefly the acolytes who served 
 at mass. 
 
COLLEGES: UNIVERSITY; WESLEYAN. 215 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, east side of Upper Gower-street, was de- 
 signed by Wilkins, R.A.;* the first stone laid by the Duke of Sussex, 
 April 30, 1827 ; and the building opened Oct. 1, 1828. It has a bold and 
 rich central portico of twelve Corinthian columns and a pediment, ele- 
 vated on a plinth 19 feet, and approached by numerous steps, arranged 
 with fine effect. Behind the pediment is a cupola with a lantern light, 
 in imitation of a peripteral temple ; in the great hall under which are 
 the original models of the principal works of John Flaxman, R.A., pre- 
 sented by Miss Denman. In the vestibule is Flaxman's restoration of 
 the Farnese Hercules ; beneath the dome is his grand life-size Michael 
 and Satan ; and around the walls are his various monumental and other 
 bas-reliefs : " in all the monumental compositions there is a touching 
 story, and the sublimity of the poetic subjects is of a quality which the 
 Greeks themselves have never excelled." (Art Journal.) An adjoining 
 room contains Flaxman's Shield of Achilles, and other works. 
 
 The University building extends about 400 feet in length : in the 
 ground-floor are lecture-rooms, cloisters for the exercise of the pupils, 
 two semicircular theatres, chemical laboratory, museum of materia me- 
 dica, &c. In the upper floor, on entering by the great door of the por- 
 tico, the whole extent of the building is seen. Here are, the great hall, 
 museums of natural history and anatomy, two theatres, two libraries, 
 and rooms with naturo-philosophical apparatus. The principal library 
 is richly decorated in the Italian style; here is a marble statue of 
 Locke. The Laboratory, completed from the plan of Prof. Donald- 
 son, in 1845, combines all the recent improvements of our own schools 
 with that of Professor Liebig, at Giessen. 
 
 University College is proprietary, and was founded in 1828, principally aided by 
 Lord Brougham, the poet Campbell, and Dr. Birkbeck, for affording "literary and 
 scientific education at a moderate expense ;" but Divinity is not taught. There 
 is a Junior School. The graduates of the University of London from Univer- 
 sity College are entitled Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, and Bachelors of 
 Law, Medicine, and Art. The School of Medicine is highly distinguished; and 
 under the superintendence of its profes ors has been founded University College 
 Hospital, opposite the College, in which the medical students receive improved 
 instruction in medicine and surgery. 
 
 In the rear of the College, on the west side of Gordon-square, is 
 University Hall, designed by Prof. Donaldson, 1849, and built for 
 instruction in Theology and Moral Philosophy, which are excluded by 
 the College. The architecture is Elizabethan-Tudor, in red brick and 
 stone ; the grouping of the windows is cleverly managed. In the great 
 hall the students breakfast and dine ; and the establishment is a sort of 
 students' club-house, or model lodging-house. 
 
 WESLEYAN NORMAL COLLEGE, Horseferry-road, "Westminster, 
 (James Wilson, architect,) has been erected for the training of school- 
 masters and mistresses, and the education of the children in the locality. 
 It is in the late Perpendicular style, of brick, with stone dressings; and 
 consists of a Principal's Residence, a quadrangular Normal College for 
 100 students, with Lecture and Dining Halls ; Practising Schools, and 
 Masters' Houses : beyond is the Model School, in Early English style, 
 with porch and lancet windows : the buildings and playgrounds occu- 
 pying upwards of 15 acres, with a large central octagonal tower, 
 which, with the embattled parapets, pointed gables, and traceried oriel- 
 windows, forms a picturesque architectural group. 
 
 * Wilkins also designed the National Gallery, a far less happy work than 
 University College, which is unfinished; the original design comprised two ad- 
 ditional smaller cupolas. The two works seem hardly to be the production of 
 the same architect , in the National Gallery the dome being as unsightly a feature 
 in composition as in the College it is graceful. 
 
216 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 COLLEGIATE AND OTHER PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 
 
 CAMBERWELL FREE GRAMMAR-SCHOOL, Camberwell, Surrey, was 
 founded 1615, by the Rev. E. "Wilson, forty-one years vicar. The pa- 
 tronage is vested in governors, and the number of free boys limited to 
 twelve. The seal of the school exhibits the master seated, baton in 
 hand, with his scholars in a circle around him ; and the master's dues 
 included 5s. 3d. towards brooms and rods. The scholars were to play 
 but once a-week, on Thursday ; and to amuse themselves on half-holi- 
 days by learning Calvin's Catechism. Shooting with the long-bow, 
 chess, running, wrestling, and leaping, were the plays allowed. The 
 old school-house, eastward of Camberwell Church," has been taken 
 down; and a new school-house built, 1835, in Camberwell-grove, in 
 the Collegiate style, with a cloister ; H. Roberts, architect. 
 
 CHARTER-HOUSE SCHOOL, see page 72. 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL (Blue- Coat School), see page 80. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL (the) occupies the site of Honey-lane 
 Market, in the rear of the houses facing Bow Church, and was de- 
 signed by J. B. Bunning ; the first stone laid by Lord Brougham, Oct. 
 21, 1835. The style is Elizabethan, with earlier and more enriched 
 principal windows and entrance ; the latter, a rich arched doorway, 
 surmounted by a lofty gable pediment, and above, an open gallery of five 
 trefoiled pointed arches on lofty pillars, flanked by buttress-turrets 
 76| feet high, is novel and picturesque. The cost of the edifice, about 
 12,000? , was defrayed by the Corporation of London, who gave the 
 site, which produced a yearly rental of 3001. The school, for 400 
 scholars, is partly suppoVted "with 900Z. a-year derived from certain 
 lands and tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, Town-Clerk and 
 "Secretary" of London in the reign of Henry VI. ; and who several 
 times represented the City in parliament, and was " executor of the 
 will of Richard Whityngton." Carpenter's bequest, originally but 
 191. Ws. per annum, was " for the finding and bringing up of four poor 
 men's children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools, in the 
 universities, &c., until they be preferred, and then others in their places 
 for ever." (Stoic.) The bequest was thus appropriated in 1633, when 
 the boys wore " coats of London russet," with buttons ; and they 
 were accustomed from time to time to shew their copy-books to the 
 Chamberlain, in proof of the application of the Charity. In 1827, it 
 was extended to the education of four boys, sons of freemen, and nomi- 
 nated by the Lord Mayor, at the Tonbridge Grammar- School; each 
 boy, on quitting, received 100Z., thus increasing the annual expense 
 to about 420?. In the lapse of nearly four centuries, the value of Car- 
 penter's estates had augmented from 191. 10s. to 900/., or nearly five- 
 and-forty fold, when the school was established as above. The form 
 of admission must be signed by a member of the Corporation of Lon- 
 don : the general course of instruction includes the English, French, 
 German, Latin, and Greek languages. 
 
 The school year is divided into three terms, at 21. 15*. a term for each pupil. 
 There are eight free foundation scholarships available as exhibitions to the 
 Universities, in addition to the following: the Times scholarship (see CHRIST'S 
 HOSPITAL, p. 83), three Beaufoy scholarships, the Salomons scholarship, and 
 the Travers scholarship, and the Tegg scholarship, (" Sheriffs Fine,"; varying 
 from 351. to 501. a year each ; and there are other valuable prizes, determinable 
 by examination at Midsummer. 
 
 Upon the great staircase of the school is a statue, by Nixon, of John 
 Carpenter, in the costume of his period ; he bears in his left hand his 
 Liber Albus, a collection of the City laws, customs, and privileges, 
 
COLLEGIATE SCHOOLS: MERCERS*; MERCHANT-TAYLORS'. 217 
 
 compiled in 1419, and still preserved in the Corporation archives. The 
 statue is placed upon a pedestal inscribed with a compendious history 
 of the founder and his many benevolent acts.* 
 
 ST. MARGARET'S HOSPITAL, Palmer's Village, Westminster, was 
 established and endowed in 1633, and consists of a large quadrangle 
 and the master's house ; with a bust of Charles I., and the royal arms 
 in colours, and richly carved and gilt. In the panelled board-room are 
 portraits of Charles I. by Vandyke, and Charles II. by Lely; and the 
 windows look into a neatly-kept flower-garden. Upon this foundation 
 are maintained twenty-nine boys, who wear a long green skirt, and a 
 red leather girdle resembling that worn by the boys of Christ's Hos- 
 pital : hence St. Margaret's is also known as the " Green-Coat School." 
 The grace used here, attributed to Bishop Compton, is the same as 
 that said in Christ's Hospital. (Walcott's Westminster, p. 295.) 
 
 MERCERS' SCHOOL, College-hill, Dowgate, was founded and en- 
 dowed by the Mercers' Company, for seventy scholars of any age or 
 S'ace. It is mentioned as early as 1447, and was then kept at the 
 ospital of St. Thomas of Aeon ; but was removed to St. Mary Cole- 
 church, next the Mercers' Chapel. After the Great Fire of 1666, the 
 school-house was rebuilt on the west side of the Old Jewry. In 1787, 
 it was removed to 13 Budge-row ; in 1804, to 20 Red-Lion-court, 
 Watling-street ; and from thence, in 1808, to premises on College- 
 hill. The present school, designed by George Smith, is an elegant 
 stone structure, (adjoining St. Michael's Church,) on the site of Whit- 
 tington's Almshouses, removed to Highgate to make room for it. 
 The education, classical and general, is free ; the boys being selected 
 in turn by the Master and three Wardens of the Mercers' Company. 
 Among the early scholars were, Dr. Colet, Sir Thomas Gresham, and 
 Bishop Wren. 
 
 MERCHANT TAYLORS' SCHOOL, Suffolk-lane, Cannon-street, was 
 founded in 1561, by the Merchant Taylors' Company, principally by the 
 gift of 500J.. and other subscriptions by members of the court of assist- 
 ants, among whom was Sir Thomas White, sometime Master of the 
 Company, and who had recently founded St. John's College, Oxford. 
 With these funds was purchased part of "the Manor of the Rose," a 
 palace originally built by Sir John Poultney, Knt., five times Lord Mayor 
 of London, in the reign of Edward III/; the estate successively be- 
 longed to the De la Pole or Suffolk family (whence Suffolk-lane), and 
 the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham : 
 
 " The Duke being at the Rose, within the parish 
 
 Saint Lawrence Poultney." Shakspeare, Henry VIII. act i. sc. 2. 
 lence, also, "Duck's-Foot-lane" (the Duke's foot-lane, or private way 
 Tom the garden to the Thames), which is hard by. These ancient pre- 
 mises were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, and the present building 
 "as erected on the same site, in 1675, by Wren : it is a large brick 
 lifice, with pilasters ; the upper school-room, and library adjoining, 
 itipported by stone pillars, forming a cloister; there are also other 
 ooms, and the head-master's residence. The school consists of 260 
 
 * At the expense of John Carpenter was " artificially and richly painted" the 
 Vance of Death upon the north cloister of St. Paul's, and thence called the 
 'Dance at Paul's." (See CHURCHES, p. 8-5.) It consisted of a long train of all 
 rders of mankind; each figure having for a partner the spectral Death leading 
 he sepulchral dance, and shaking the last sands from his hour-glass : intended 
 is a moral memorial of the Plague and Famine of 1438. Among Carpenter's 
 >roperty is a lease of premises in Cornhill, granted by the City, for eighty years, 
 it the annual service of a red rose for the first thirty years, and a yearly rent of 
 0. for the remainder of the term. 
 
218 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 boys, present charge ten guineas per annum each: they are admittec 
 at any age, on the nomination of the forty members of the Court of th< 
 Company in rotation ; and the scholars may remain until the Mondaj 
 after St. John the Baptist's Day preceding their nineteenth birthday 
 Hebrew, Greek, and Latin have been taught since the foundation of th< 
 school ; mathematics, writing, and arithmetic were added in 1829, anc 
 French and modern history in 1816. The boys are entitled to 37 oui 
 of the 50 fellowships at St. John's College, Oxford, and several othei 
 exhibitions at both the Universities ; the election to which takes placi 
 annually on St. Barnabas Day, June 11, when the school prizes ari 
 also distributed : there is another speech-day, " Doctors' Day," in Del 
 cember. Plays were formerly performed by the Merchant Taylors' boys, 
 who, in 3664, acted Beaumont and Fletcher's Love's Pilgrimage in the 
 Company's Hall, but under order that this " should bee noe precident 
 for the future." 
 
 Amongst the eminent scholars educated at Merchant Taylors' were, Bishops 
 Andrewes, Dove, and Tomson, three of the translators of the Bible ; Archbishop 
 Juxon, who attended Charles I. to the scaffold; Bishop Hopkins (of Londonderry); 
 Archbishops Sir William Dawes, Gilbert, and Boulter; Bishop Van Mildert, and 
 eleven other prelates; Titus Gates, who contrived the "Popish Plot;" Sir James 
 Whitelocke, Justice of the King's Bench ; Bulstrode Whitelocke, who wrote hla 
 " Memorials;" Shirley, the dramatic poet, contemporary with Massinger; CharlM 
 Wheatly, the ritualist; Neale, the historian of the Puritans; Edmund Calamy, anil 
 his grandson Edmund, the Nonconformists the former died in 1666, from seeing 
 London in ashes after the Great Fire ; the great Lord Clive ; Dr. Vicesimus Knox, 
 one of the "British Essayists;" Dr. William Lowth, the learned classic and thf. 
 ologian ; Nicholas Amhurst, associated with Bolingbroke and Pulteney in the 
 Craftsman; Charles Mathews the elder, comedian; Lieut.-Col. Denham, the ex- 
 plorer of central Africa; and J. L. Adolphus, the barrister, who wrote a Historm 
 of the Reign of George III. Also, Sir John Dodson, Queen's Advocate ; Sir Hen* 
 Ellis, and Samuel Birch, of the British Museum ; John Gough Nichols, F.S. A. \-c. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S AND ST. JOHN'S FREE GRAMMAR-SCHOOL (originalll 
 St. Olave's) was founded by the inhabitants in 1561 ; and endowed, amonf 
 other property, with the " Horseydowne" field, at the yearly rent of f 
 red rose, which is paid by the Churchwardens and Overseers previously 
 to the annual commemoration sermon on Nov. 17, by presenting to eack 
 of the School Governors a nosegay of flowers with a rose in it. Th* 
 school originated in the bequest of a wealthy brewer named Leekfc 
 who, in 1561, left 81. a-year for a free school in St. Savyor's, whkl 
 bequest, however, was to go to St. Olave's, if within two years of hit 
 death a school should be built and established there. St. Olave's con* 
 trived to secure the legacy ; and in 1567 the school was made free, anf 
 incorporated by Queen Elizabeth ; charter extended by Charles II. 1674. 
 
 In 1579, Horseydowne, (now Horslydown,) was passed over by 
 the parish to the use of the school. It was originally a large grazing 
 field, down, or pasture, for horses and cattle, containing about sixteen 
 acres; but having long since been covered with houses, erected on 
 building leases, which have fallen in, the yearly income of the School 
 from this source is upwards of 2000Z. The old'school, in Churchyard- 
 alley, was taken down about 1830, for making the approaches to the 
 new London Bridge, when a piece of ground in Duke-street was 
 granted by the City of London as a site for a new school ; but this 
 ground was exchanged with the London and Greenwich Railway 
 Company for a site in Bermondsey-street, where the school was re- 
 built, and opened Nov. 17, 1835. It was in the latest Tudor or Eliza- 
 bethan style, of red brick, with an octangular embattled tower, lan- 
 tern-roofed ; James Field, architect. In 1849, this new building being 
 required for the enlargement of the terminus of the London, Brighton, 
 and South-Coast Railway Company, they paid a considerable sum of 
 money for it, the Governors undertaking to find another site for the 
 
COLLEGIATE SCHOOLS: ST. PAUL'S. 219 
 
 school, and rebuild the same ; the tuition being in the mean time car- 
 ried on in a temporary building in Maze Pond. 
 
 The School is free to "children and younglings," rich or poor, inhabitants of 
 St. Olave's and St. John's parishes, admitted by presentation from the Governors. 
 The Classical School consists of about 320 boys ; and the branch or English 
 School, in Magdalen-street, and built in 1824, contains about 260 boys. The 
 governors also award annually four exhibitions at Oxford or Cambridge Univer- 
 sity, besides apprentice-fees for poor scholars, and funds for other benevolent 
 purposes. Commemoration-day, Nov. 17, (Accession of Elizabeth). 
 
 " The seal of the corporation, dated 1576, and distinguished by a rose dis- 
 played, the ancient cognizance of Southwark, represents the master sitting in a 
 high-backed chair at his desk, on which is a book, and the rod is conspicuously 
 displayed to the terror of five scholars standing before him." G. R. Corner, F.S.A. 
 
 LADY OWEN'S SCHOOL, Owen-street, St. John- Street-road, was 
 founded and endowed in 1613, by Dame Alice Owen, in memory of her 
 having escaped " braining" by a stray arrow upon the site, then Her- 
 mitage Fields ; the arrow having passed through her ladyship's high- 
 crowned hat. (See ARCHERY, page 5.) The Charity, in the trust of 
 the Brewers' Company, educates thirty poor children from Islington 
 and Clerkenwell, to whom the master must teach Latin if required : 
 there are also pay scholars. The school- house was rebuilt in 1840, in 
 the Elizabethan style, of fine red brick, with stone dressings, to cor- 
 respond with Lady Owen's Almshouses, opposite; Tattersall, architect. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL, east end of St. Paul's Churchyard, was founded 
 in 1512, by Dr. John Colet, son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and lord 
 mayor in 1486 and 1495 ; and it is " hard to say whether he left better 
 lands for the maintenance of his school, or wiser laws for the govern- 
 ment thereof" (Fuller). The school is for 153 boys "of every nation 
 country, and class ;" the 153 alluding to the number of fishes taken by 
 St. Peter (John xxi. 2). The education is entirely classical ; the pre- 
 sentations to the school are in the gift of the Master of the Mercers' 
 Company ; and scholars are admitted at fifteen, but eligible at any age. 
 The original school-house was built 1508-12: this was destroyed in the 
 Great Fire of 1666, but was rebuilt by Wren ; this second school was 
 taken down in 1824, and the present school built of stone from the de- 
 signs of George Smith : it has a handsome central portico upon a 
 rusticated base, projecting over the street pavement. The original 
 endowment, and for several years the only endowment of the school, 
 was 55?. 14s. 10|d., the value of estates in Buckinghamshire, which 
 now produce 1858?. 16s. 10|c?. a-year; and with other property, make 
 the present income of the school upwards of 5000?. Lilly, the emi- 
 nent grammarian, the friend of Erasmus and Sir Thomas More, was 
 the first schoolmaster of St. Paul's, and "Lilly's Grammar" is used 
 to this day in the school: the English rudiments were written by 
 Colet, the preface to the first edition by Cardinal "Wolsey ; the Latin 
 syntax chiefly by Erasmus, and the remainder by Lilly. Colet di- 
 rected that the children should not use tallow but wax candles in 
 the school ; 4d. entrance- money for each was to be given to the poor 
 scholar who swept the school; and the masters were to have livery 
 gowns " delivered in clothe." The present teachers consist of a high- 
 master, salary 618?. per annum, with spacious house ; sur-master, 307?. ; 
 under-master, or ancient chaplain, 227 1. ; assistant-master, 257?. : the 
 last master only having no house. The scholars' only expense is for 
 books and wax tapers. There are several very valuable exhibitions, 
 decided at the Apposition, held in the first three days of the fourth 
 week after Easter, when a commemorative oration is delivered by the 
 senior boy, and prizes are presented from the governors. In the time 
 of the founder, the " Apposition dinner" was " an assembly and a 
 
220 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 litell dinner, ordayned by the surveyor, not exceedynge the pryce of 
 four nobles." 
 
 In the list of eminent Paulines are, Sir Anthony Denny and Sir William 
 Paget, privy councillors to Henry VIII.; John Leland, the antiquary; John 
 Milton, our great epic poet; Samuel Pepys, the diarist; John Strype, the eccle- 
 siastical historian ; Dr. Calamy, the High Churchman ; the great Duke of Marl- 
 borough; R. W. Elliston, the comedian; Sir C. Mansfield Clarke, Bart.; Lord 
 Chancellor Truro, &c. 
 
 On Apposition Day, June 4. 1851, -were announced these three additional I 
 prizes: 1. " 'the Chancellor's Prize," by Lord Truro, 1000Z. ; the interest to be ap-l 
 plied in awarding a gold medal, value ten guineas, and a purse of twenty guineas, I 
 or books to that amount, each yearly Apposition, to the author of the best English! 
 Essay. 2. " The Milton Prize," by Sir C. M. Clarke, Bart., for English Verses on I 
 a sacred subject, annually. 3. " The Thurston Memorial," an annual prize for! 
 a copy of Latin Lyrics, given by the parent of a student named Thurston, recently! 
 deceased ; the High Master to apply a portion of the endowment to keeping up[ 
 the youth's gravestone in the Highgate Cemetery. 
 
 PHILOLOGICAL SCHOOL, (the,) Gloucester-place, New-road, was 
 founded 1792 ; and, in union with King's College, offers first-class educa- 
 tion gratuitously, for the sons of clergymen, naval and military officers^ 
 professional men, merchants, manufacturers, clerks in public offices^ 
 the higher order of tradesmen, and other persons whose families have 
 been in better circumstances and are reduced. There are also con-l 
 tributory scholars. Admission by presentation of Governors. (Low's! 
 Charities of London, p. 351.) 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S GRAMMAR-SCHOOL, Sumner-street, Southwark- 
 Bridge-road, was rebuilt 1830-9, nearly adjoining St. Peter's Church. I 
 The school was founded by parishioners in 1562, and chartered by Queen < 
 Elizabeth ; the original endowment being 40Z. a-vear. The scheme, j 
 approved by the Court of Chancery in 1850, provides six governors to 
 manage the school property ; the instruction to comprise religion, clas- j 
 sical learning, English composition, grammar, arithmetic, history, geo-l 
 graphy, mathematics, &c., subject to the approval of .the Bishop of j 
 Winchester; the head master to be a Master of Arts, and to be ap-| 
 pointed in conformity with the statutes of 1614. Small prizes are ad-j 
 judged yearly, and there are two University exhibitions. Among the! 
 olden rules for the choice of a master is the following: 
 
 " The master to be a man of a wise, sociable, and loving disposition, not hasty 
 or furious, or of any ill example ; he shall be wise and of good experience, to 
 discern the nature of every several child : to work upon the disposition for the I 
 greatest advantage, benefit, and comfort of the child; to learn with the love of! 
 his book." It was necessary then, as now, to add, " if such an one may be got." I 
 The corporation seal represents a pedagogue seated in a chair, with a group of I 
 thickly-trussed pupils before him ; date, 1573. 
 
 The original school-house, on the south side of St. Saviour's church- 
 yard, was burned in 1676, but was immediately rebuilt : it had a richly- 
 carved doorway -head. This building was taken down after the erec- 
 tion of the new school in Sumner-street. Among the donations is 
 5001. by Dr.W. Heberden, the celebrated physician, who is said to have 
 been partly educated in the school. 
 
 GREY-COAT HOSPITAL, Tothill Fields, "Westminster, a Charity 
 School, was founded in 1698, and reconstituted 1706, when the school- 
 house was built. The centre has a clock, turret, and bell, above the 
 royal arms of Queen Anne, with the motto Semper eadem, flanked by 
 figures in the former costume of the children. Here are a wainscoted 
 dining-hall, and a handsomely panelled board-room, with a full-length 
 portrait of Queen Anne, painted in Lely's manner, and other pictures. 
 Upon this noble foundation are maintained sixty-seven boys, who now 
 wear a dark-grev dress, similiar in form to that of the St. Margaret's 
 
COLOSSEUM. 221 
 
 Hospital ; and thirty-three girls, whose dress is also of a dark-grey 
 colour, open in front and corded. (Walcott's Westminster, p. 823.) 
 Three guineas or upwards annually, or thirty guineas composition, 
 is a governor's qualification, with the right to present a child for ad- 
 mission as vacancies arise. In 168G, Sarah Duchess of Somerset be- 
 queathed 1000Z. to support six fatherless boys in the school, to be dis- 
 tinguished by wearing yellow caps. There is also in Tothill Fields 
 Palmer's School, the boys of which wear black coats. 
 
 TENISON'S (Archbishop) GRAMMAR SCHOOL, St. Martiu's-in-the- 
 Fields. (See page 172.) 
 
 WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. (See ST. PETER'S COLLEGE, page 212.) 
 
 COLOSSEUM (THE). 
 
 The Colosseum, upon the east side of the Regent's-park, was origin- 
 ally planned by Mr. Hornor, a land-surveyor ; and the building was 
 commenced for him in 1824, by Peto and Grissell, from the designs of 
 Decimus Burton. The chief portion is a polygon of sixteen faces, 126 
 feet in diameter externally, the walls being 3 feet thick at the ground ; 
 and the height to the glazed dome is 112 feet. Fronting the west is 
 an entrance portico, with six Grecian-Doric fluted columns, said to be 
 full-sized models of those of the Parthenon. The external dome is 
 supported by a hemispherical dome, constructed of ribs formed of thin 
 deals in thicknesses, breaking joint and bolted together, on the principle 
 educed by M. Philibert de 1'Orme in the 14th century, and stated to 
 be introduced here for the first time in England. This second dome 
 also supports a third, which forms the ceiling of the picture. The 
 building resembles a miniature of the Pantheon, and has been named 
 from its colossal size, and not from any resemblance to the Colosseum 
 at Rome; but it more closely resembles the Roman Catholic Church 
 at Berlin.* 
 
 The building is lighted entirely by the glazed dome, there being no 
 side windows. Upon the canvassed walls was painted the Panoramic 
 View of London, completed in 1829 ; for which Mr. Hornor, in 1821-2, 
 made the sketches at several feet above the present cross of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral (see pages 88 and 94). The view of the picture is obtained 
 from two galleries : the first corresponds, in relation to the prospect, 
 with the first gallery at the summit of the dome of St. Paul's ; the 
 second with the upper gallery of the cathedral. Upon this last gallery is 
 placed the identical copper ball which formerly occupied the summit of 
 St. Paul's ; above it is a fac-simile of the cross ; and over these is hung 
 the small wooden cabin in which Mr. Hornor made his drawings. A 
 small flight of stairs leads from this spot to the open parapet gallery 
 which surrounds the domed roof of the Colosseum. The communica- 
 tion with the galleries is by spiral staircases, built on the outside of a 
 lofty cylindrical core in the centre of the rotunda ; within which is also 
 
 * In 1769, there was constructed in the Champs Elysees, at Paris, a vast 
 building called Le Colisee, for fetes in honour of the marriage of the Dauphin, 
 afterwards Louis XVI. Here were dances, hydraulics, pyrotechnics, &c. ; the 
 building did not resemble the Pantheon, as ours in the Regent's-park, but the 
 Colosseum at Rome. It contained a rotunda, saloons, and circular galleries, 
 skirted with shops, besides trellis-work apartments and four cafes. In the 
 centre of Le Cirque was a vast basin of water, with fountains; beyond which 
 fireworks were displayed. The whole edifice was completely covered with green 
 trellis-work; the entire space occupied by the buildings, courts, and gardens was 
 sixteen acres ; and the cost was two and a half millions of money. There were 
 prize exhibitions of pictures; and Mr. Hornor projected similar displays at the 
 Colosseum, but the idea was not taken up by the British artists. In 1778, the 
 Parisian building was closed, and two years afterwards was taken down. It is 
 mentioned by Dr. Johnson, in his Tour, in 1775. 
 
222 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the "Ascending Room," capable of containing ten or twelve persons. 
 This chamber is decorated in the Elizabethan style, and lighted through 
 a stained-glass ceiling ; it is raised by secret machinery to the required 
 elevation, or gallery, whence the company view the panorama. The 
 hoisting mechanism is a long shaft connected with a steam-engine out- 
 side the building, working a chain upon a drum-barrel, and counter- 
 balanced by two other chains, the ascending motion being almost im- 
 perceptible. 
 
 The painting of the picture was a marvel of art. It covers upwards 
 of 46,000 square feet, or more than an acre of canvass; the dome on 
 which the sky is painted is 30 feet more in diameter than the cupola of 
 St. Paul's ; and the circumference of the horizon from the point of view 
 is nearly 130 miles. Excepting the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, there 
 is no painted surface in Great Britain to compare with this in magni- 
 tude or shape, and even that offers but a small extent in comparison. 
 It is inferred that the scaffolding used for constructing St. Paul's 
 cupola was left for Sir James Thornhill, in painting the interior ; and 
 his design consisted of several compartments, each complete in itself. 
 Not so this Panorama of London, which, as one subject, required unity, 
 harmony, accuracy of linear and aerial perspective ; the commencement 
 and finishing of lines, colours, and forms, and their nice unity ; the per- 
 pendicular canvass and concave ceiling of stucco w r as not to be seen by, 
 or even known to, the spectator ; and the union of a horizontal and ver- 
 tical surface, though used, was not to be detected. After the sketches 
 were completed upon 2000 sheets of paper, and the building finished, 
 no individual could be found to paint the picture in a sufficiently short 
 period, and many artists were of necessity employed : thus, by the use 
 of platforms slung by ropes, with baskets for conveying the' colours, 
 temporary bridges, and other ingenious contrivances, the painting was 
 executed, but in the peculiar style, taste, and notion of each artist ; to 
 reconcile which, or bring them to form one vast whole, was a novel, in- 
 tricate, and hazardous task, which many persons tried, but ineffectually. 
 At length, Mr. E. T. Parris, possessing an accurate knowledge of me- 
 chanics and perspective, and practical execution in painting, combined 
 with great enthusiasm and perseverance, accomplished the labour prin- 
 cipally with his own hands; standing in a cradle or box, suspended 
 from cross poles or shears, and lifted as required, by ropes. 
 
 The Panorama is viewed from a balustraded gallery, with a project- 
 ing frame beneath it, in exact imitation of the outer dome of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, the perspective and light and shade of the campanile towers 
 in the western front being admirably managed ; whilst art cannot exceed 
 the contrast of the bold and broad buildings in the foreground with the 
 receding mid-distance, and the minuteness of the horizon. The spec- 
 tator is recommended to take four distinct stations in the gallery, and 
 then inspect in succession the views towards the north, east, south, and 
 west ; altogether representing the Metropolis of 1821, (the date of the 
 sketches,) or thirty years since. 
 
 The North comprises Newgate-*narket, the old College of Physicians, Christ's 
 Hospital (before the rebuilding of the Great Hall), St. Bartholomew's Hospital, 
 and Smithfield Market ; and the New General Post-Office, then building. These 
 are the objects near the foreground ; beyond them are Clerkenwell, the Charter- 
 house, and the lines of Goswell-street, St. John-street, Pentonville, Islington 
 and Hoxton. In the next, or third distance, are Primrose Hill, Chalk Farm, 
 Hampstead, and a continued line of wooded hills to Highgate, where are the bold 
 Archway and the line of the Great North Road from Islington; whilst Stamford- 
 hill, Muswell-hiU, part of Epping Forest, and portions of Essex, Hertfordshire, 
 and Middlesex, hound the horizon. 
 
 The East displays a succession of objects all differing from the former view in 
 effect, character, and associations. Whilst the north exhibits the rustic scenery 
 
COLOSSEUM. 223 
 
 of the environs of London, the east presents us with the Thames, and its massive 
 varehouses and spacious docks ; the one a scene of rural quiet, the other a focus 
 of commercial activity. In the foreground is St. Paul's School-house ; whilst the 
 ines of Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall-street, and Whitechapel carry the eye 
 hrough the very heart of the City, and thence to Bow, Stratford, and a fine 
 ract of woodlands in Essex. On the right and left of this line are the towers and 
 steeples of Bow Church, St. Mary Woolnooth ; St. Michael, Cornhill ; St. Ethel- 
 berg, Bishopsgate, and others of subordinate height; the Bank, Mansion-house, 
 loyal Exchange (since destroyed by fire), East India House, and several of the 
 Companies' Halls. Another line, nearly parallel, hut a little to the east extends 
 hrough Watling-street (the old Roman road) to Cannon-street, Tower-street, and 
 he prison, palace, fortress, and museum the Tower. The course of the Thames, 
 with its vessels and wilderness of masts, the docks and warehouses on its hanks ; 
 the palace-hospital of Greenwich, and the beautiful country beyond it, contrasted 
 with the levels of the Essex bank, are all defined in this direction. 
 
 Southward, the eye traces the undulating line of the Surrey hills in the dis- 
 ance ; and in the forepart of the picture the Thames, with its countless craft, 
 among which are civic bargas and steamers, characteristic of ancient and modern 
 Condon. Here also are shewn old London Bridge, and Southwark, Blackfriars, 
 Waterloo, Westminster, and Vauxhall Bridges ; whilst the river-banks are crowded 
 with interesting structures, among which are the old Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The Western view presents a new and different series of objects. First in effect, 
 n beauty of execution and imposing character, are the two campanili, the pedi- 
 ment, and the roof of the western end, of St. Paul's Cathedral. The painting here 
 s masterly and magical; it so deceives the eye and the imagination, that the 
 pectator can scarcely believe these towers to be depicted on the same canvass 
 md the same surface as the whole line of objects from Ludgate-hill to St. James's- 
 park. This view to the west embraces the long lines of Ludgate-hill, Fleet-street, 
 and the Strand, Piccadilly, &c. ; Holborn Hill and Oxford-street, with the Inns 
 of Court ; Westminster ; numerous churches and public buildings, right and left ; 
 and Hyde-park, Kensington-gardens, and a long stretch of flat country to Wind- 
 sor. Brief Account, by John Britton, F.S.A., 1829. 
 
 A staircase leads to the upper gallery, whence the spectator again 
 commands the whole picture in a sort of bird's-eye view. Another 
 flight of stairs communicates with the room containing the copper ball 
 and fac-simile cross of St. Paul's. A few more steps conduct to the 
 outer gallery at the summit ; where, if the weather be fine, the spec- 
 tator may compare the colouring, perspective, and effects of nature 
 with those of art within. 
 
 The Panorama was first exhibited in the spring of 1829. Tt was 
 almost repainted by Mr. Parris in 1845 ; when also a Panorama of 
 London by Night, essentially the same as the day view, was exhibited 
 n front of the latter, and had to be erected and illuminated every even- 
 ng: the moonlight effect upon the rippling river; the floating, fleecy 
 clouds and twinkling stars; the lights upon the bridges, in the shops, 
 and in the open markets, formed a rare triumph of artistic illusion. Jn 
 May 1848, a moonlight Panorama of Paris, of the same dimensions as 
 ;he night view of London, was painted by Danson, and was very at- 
 tractive in illustration of the localities of the recent Revolution. In 
 L850. both views gave way to a Panorama of the Lake of Thun, in 
 Switzerland, painted in tempera by Danson and Son ; and in 1851, the 
 Panorama of London was reproduced as a more appropriate sight for 
 the International Exhibition season. 
 
 The Picture, however, is but one of the many features of the Colos- 
 seum. The basement of the Rotunda has a superb Ionic colonnade, as 
 a sculpture-gallery, named the Glyptotheca : the columns and entabla- 
 ;ure are richly gilt ; and the frieze, nearly 300 feet in circumference, 
 is adorned with bas-reliefs from the Panthenaic friezes of the Parthe- 
 non, exquisitely modelled by Henning ; the ribbed roof being filled with 
 embossed glass. In hot weather, this apartment, being subterranean, 
 is cool; and in winter, comparatively warm. 
 
 Southward and eastward of the Rotunda are large Conservatories, a 
 
224 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Swiss chalet, and mountain-scenery interspersed with real water : these I 
 were executed by Mr. Hornor, whose enthusiasm led him to project I 
 a tunnel beneath the Regent's-park road, and to anticipate a grant { 
 from the opposite enclosure to be added to the Colosseum grounds. I 
 But the ingenious projector failed : the property passed into the hands I 
 of trustees, and was next sold to Messrs. Braharn and Yates, in 1831, 1 
 it is believed for 40,OOOZ. ; it was again sold in 1835, after which it lost 
 much of its status as a place of public amusement; but on May 11, 1 
 1813, it was bought for 23,000 guineas by Mr. David Montague, the pre- 1 
 sent proprietor, who has altogether retrieved and elevated the artistic J 
 character of the establishment. 
 
 The Colosseum, as we now see it, was, with the exception of the! 
 Panorama, principally executed in 1845, from the designs of the late! 
 Mr. W. Brad well, formerly chief machinist of Covent Garden Theatre J 
 The eastern entrance, in Albany-street, was then added ; with anj 
 arched corridor in the style of the Vatican, and leading to the Glypto-l 
 theca, the Arabesque Conservatories, and the Gothic Aviary ; the exte-l 
 rior promenade, with its model ruins of the Temple of Vesta and Archi 
 of Titus, the Temple of Theseus, and golden pinnacles and eastern! 
 domes, a chaos of classic relics of the antique world, and of luxuriant! 
 and mouldering beauty from our own. Here you may almost forget! 
 the working-day world, amidst the murmur of sparkling fountains, the! 
 songs of gaily -plumed birds, the fragrance of exotic plants and flowers,! 
 and the beautiful forms and brilliancy of the embellishments. A ro- 
 mantic pass leads to the chalet, or Swiss Cottage, originally designedj 
 by P. F. Robinson : the roof, walls, and projecting fireplace are fanci-j 
 fully carved; and the bay-window looks upon a mass of rock-scenery,| 
 a mountain-torrent and lake, a model picture of the sublime. 
 
 In another direction lies a large model of the Stalactite Cavern at. 
 Adelsberg,in Carniola; constructed by Messrs. Bradwell and Telbin. The 
 countless arches in the sparry roof, and the stalagmites on the floor, glis-j 
 tening in the candle-light, are very effective. The illusion of height and! 
 distance is complete ; and "the deep, cold, clear lake," reflecting the gor- 
 geous scene, and fading into impenetrable darkness, is a scenic romance. 
 
 At Christmas 1848 was added a superb theatre, with a picturesque! 
 rustic armoury as an ante-room. The spectatory, designed and erected 
 by Bradwell, resembles the vestibule of a regal mansion fitted up for 
 the performance of a masque : it is decorated with colossal Sienna 
 columns, and copies of three of Raphael's cartoons in the Vatican (School 
 of Athens, and Constantine and the Pope), by Horner, of Rathbone- 
 place; the ceilings are gorgeously painted with allegorical groups; and 
 upon the fronts of the boxes is a Bacchanalian procession, in richly-gilt 
 relief. Upon the stage parses the Cyclorama of Lisbon, depicting in ten; 
 scenes the terrific spectacle of the great earthquake of 1755 the uplift-j 
 ing sea and o'ertopp ing city, and all the frightful devastation of flooa 
 and fire ; accompanied by characteristic performances upon Bevington'a 
 Apollonicon. The scenes are painted by Danson, in the manner of 
 Loutherbourg's Eidophusicon, which not only anticipated, but in part 
 surpassed, our present dioramas. 
 
 COLUMNS. 
 
 NELSON COLUMN (the), south side of Trafalgar-square, was erected 
 between 1839 and 1852, by public subscription and the aid of the Govern- 
 ment. It was designed by W. Railton, and is of the exact proportion of a 
 column of the Corinthian temple of Mars Ultor at Rome : Mr. Railton 
 choosing the Corinthian order from its being the most lofty and elegant 
 in its proportions, and having never been used in England for this pur- 
 pose ; whilst it is in keeping with the surrounding buildings, and tends 
 
COLUMNS. 225 
 
 more than any other species of monument to bring the entire scene into 
 general harmony, without destroying the effect of any portion of it. The 
 foundation rests upon a 6-feet layer of concrete in a compact stratum 
 of clay, about 12 feet below the pavement ; upon which is the frustum of 
 a brick- work pyramid, 48 feet square at the base, and 13 feet high, upon 
 which the superstructure commences with the graduated stylobate of 
 the pedestal, the first step of which is 33 feet 4 inches wide. "From this 
 point to the foot of the statue, the work is of solid granite, in large 
 blocks admirably dressed ; and in the shaft they are so well connected as 
 to give the fabric almost the cohesion of a monolith. The granite was 
 brought from Foggin Tor, on the coast of Devon ; and was selected for 
 its equable particles and intimate distribution of mica, feldtspar, and 
 quartz. The shaft (lower diameter 10 feet) is fluted throughout, the 
 base being richly ornamented ; the lower torus with a cable, the upper 
 with oak-leaves. The pedestal is raised upon a flight of steps; and 
 at the angles are massive cippi, or blocks, intended to receive four 
 recumbent African lions. The capital is of bronze, and was cast from 
 old ordnance in the Arsenal foundry at Woolwich, from full-sized models 
 carefully prepared by C. H. Smith. "The foliage is connected to 
 the bell of the cap by three large belts of metal lying in grooves, and 
 rendering it needless to fix plugs into the work, with the concomitant 
 risk of damage from the galvanic action of metals." (G. Godwin, jun. 
 F.R.S.) One of the lower tiers of leaves weighs about 900 Ibs. Upon 
 a circular pedestal on the abacus is a colossal statue of Nelson, with a 
 coiled cable on his left ; E. H. Baily, R.A., sculptor. The figure is of 
 Cragleith stone, in three massive blocks, presented by the Duke of 
 Buccleuch ; the largest block weighing upwards of 30 tons. The statue 
 measures 17 feet from its plinth to the top of the hat ; it was raised on 
 Nov. 3 and 4, 1843 ; and on October 23 previous, fourteen persons ate 
 a rump-steak dinner on the abacus of the Column. 
 
226 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 has evidently covered his mark; whilst the black, who stands just before the 
 two marines, is grasping his firelock. The figures are of life-size; the casting 
 weighs about five tons. Beneath are Nelson's memorable words : " England ex- 
 pects every man will do his duty." 
 
 East (facing the Strand), Bombardment of Copenhagen : designed by the late 
 Mr. Ternouth. Nelson is sealing, on the end of a gun, his despatch, to send by 
 the flag of truce; a group of officers surround him, and a sailor holds a candle 
 and lantern: in the foreground are wounded groups; and in the distance are a 
 church and city (Copenhagen) in flames. 
 
 West ( facing Pall Mall), Battle of St. Vincent: commenced by Watson, and 
 finished by Woodington. Nelson, on board the San Josef, is receiving from the 
 Spanish admirals their swords, which an old Agamemnon man is putting under 
 his arm ; in the foreground is a dying sailor clasping a broken flag-staff. 
 A monument to Nelson was first proposed in 1805 (the year of his death) 
 when the Committee of the Patriotic Fund raised 13301. reduced 3 per 
 Cents, which, with the accumulated dividends, amounted in June 1838 
 to 5545Z. 19s. Meanwhile, in 1816, the monument was proposed in Par- 
 liament, as " a duty which the nation ought, perhaps, to have discharged 
 not less than thirty years ago." The subject, however, rested until 1838, 
 when a subscription was raised, Trafalgar-square chosen as the site, and 
 a column recommended by the Duke of Wellington. In January 1839, 
 118 drawings and 41 models were submitted, and the first prize, 250?., 
 awarded to Mr. Railton for his column ; in May following, a second 
 series of designs (167) was exhibited, but the Committee adhered to 
 their former choice. In 1844, the subscriptions,* 20,483?. 11*. 2d., had 
 been expended ; and the Government undertook the completion of the 
 monument, estimated at 12,000?. additional. The column itself has cost 
 23,000?. building; the statue, capital, and reliefs, 5000?.; and 2000?. 
 architect's commission ; the four lions are estimated at 3000?. Tra- 
 falgar-square was much objected to as the site : in the Parlia- 
 mentary examination, eight architects and sculptors were in favour of 
 it, and four architects against it. Chantrey considered Trafalgar-square 
 to be " the most favourable that could be found or imagined for any 
 national work of art ; its aspect is nearly south, and sufficiently open 
 to give the object placed on that identical spot all the advantage of 
 light and shade that can be desired ; to this may be added the advantage 
 of a happy combination of unobtrusive buildings around : but to con- 
 ceive a national monument worthy of this magnificent site is no easy 
 task." Chantrey objected to a column as a monument, unless treated 
 as a biographical volume, with the acts of the hero sculptured on the 
 shaft, as on the columns of Trajan and Antoninus. Annexed are the 
 comparative dimensions of the principal monumental columns : 
 
 Date. 
 
 Column. 
 
 Site. 
 
 Order. 
 
 Height 
 to the top of 
 Capital. 
 
 Diameter. 
 
 A.D. 
 
 
 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 118 
 
 Trajan . . 
 
 Rome . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 115 
 
 12 
 
 162 
 
 Antoninus . 
 
 Rome . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 123 
 
 13 
 
 1671 
 
 Monument . 
 
 London 
 
 Doric . 
 
 172 
 
 15 
 
 1806 
 
 Napoleon . 
 
 Paris . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 115 
 
 12 
 
 1832 
 
 Duke of York 
 
 London 
 
 Tuscan 
 
 111 
 
 11 
 
 1839 
 
 Nelson . . 
 
 London 
 
 Corinthian 
 
 145-6 
 
 10-I|-ll'7i 
 
 Nelson Column, 145 feet 6 inches; statue and plinth, 17 feet; =162 feet 6 inches. 
 
 TOKK COLUMN, Carlton Gardens, built 1830-33, in memory of the 
 
 Duke of York (d. 1827), Commander-in-Chief of the army, and forty- 
 
 six years a soldier ; whose statue is placed on the summit. The building 
 
 fund, about 25,000?., was raised by subscription, to which each indivi- 
 
 * To which Nicholas, Emperor of Russia, had contributed 5001. 
 
COMMON COUNCIL. 227 
 
 dual of the service contributed one day's pay. The column (Tt 
 designed by B. Wyatt, is of fine Aberdeenshire granite, the low 
 
 Tuscan), 
 >wer pe- 
 destal grey, and the shaft of red Peterhead ; the surface fine-axed, or 
 not polished. The abacus of the capital is enclosed with iron railing, 
 and in its centre is the pedestal for the statue. Within the pedestal 
 and shaft is a spiral staircase of 1G8 steps, which, with the newel, or 
 central pillar, and outer casing, are cut from the solid block. The 
 masonry throughout, by No well, is remarkably good. The statue, of 
 bronze, by Sir Richard Westmacott, R.A., represents the Duke in the 
 robes of the Order of the Garter. The weight is 7 tons SOOlbs., or 
 I6,4801bs. ; it was raised April 8, 1834, between the column and the 
 scaffolding, seven hours labour, at a cost of 400Z. The column may be 
 ascended from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24, 6d. each person : the view 
 from the gallery of the Surrey hills and western London is fine ; the latter 
 shewing the magnificence of Regent-street, and the skill of the archi- 
 tect, Nash, in the junction of the lines by the Quadrant. On May 14, 
 1850, Henri Joseph Stephan, a French musician, committed suicide by 
 throwing himself from the gallery, which has since been- entirely 
 enclosed with iron caging. The height of the column is 123 feet 6 
 inches; of the statue, 13 feet 6 inches = 137 feet; or viewed from the- 
 bottom of the steps, at the level of St. James's Park, 156 feet : upper 
 diameter of shaft, 10 feet lj inches ; lower diameter, 11 feet 7^ inches. 
 The foundation, laid in concrete* is pyramidal, 53 feet square at the base. 
 
 The height of the balcony of the York Column is very nearly that of the 
 under side of the great tube of the Britannia Bridge, over the Menai Straits, 
 above high-water. The entire length of the bridge is 1832 feet 8 inches; consi- 
 derably more than that of Waterloo Place, from the York Column to the foot of 
 the Quadrant. Proceedings of the Society of Arts, 1851. 
 
 Dr. Waagen condemns this monument as a bad imitation of Trajan's Column, 
 very mean and poor in appearance, with a naked shaft, and without an entasis; 
 whereas the bas-reliefs on the shaft of Trajan's Pillar give it, at least, the im- 
 pression of a lavish profusion of art. Besides, the statue on the York Column, 
 though as colossal as the size of the base will allow, appears little and puppet-like 
 compared with the column j and the features and expression of the countenance 
 are wholly lost to the spectator. 
 
 See also MONUMENT, THE. 
 
 COMMON-COUNCIL. 
 
 The constitution of the Corporation of London presents a remote and 
 illusory resemblance to the constitution of the state. There are the 
 Lord Mayor, the Court of Aldermen, and the Court of Common-Coun- 
 cil. Strictly speaking, the Court of Common-Council includes the 
 Chief Magistrate and the Aldermen ; but in ordinary language it is un- 
 derstood to mean the Commons of the City, being somewhat like the 
 House of Commons; the Court of Aldermen bearing some analogy to 
 the House of Lords ; and the Lord Mayor to the Sovereign. (Lard 
 Brougham, in Parliament, March 3, 1843.) 
 
 The two corporate assemblies can be traced back to a very distant 
 period, and there are records of disputes between the two Courts six 
 centuries ago ; but the Common-Council appears to have been first 
 constituted in its present form only in the reign of Richard II., by a 
 civic ordinance; whilst in an Act of Parliament of the previous reign 
 (28 Edw. III. c. 10), the mayor, sheriffs, aad aldermen are invested 
 with the redress and correction of errors, &c. in the city of London, for 
 default of good government. 
 
 In the reigns of Edward I. and II., a body analogous to the Com- 
 mon-Council was formed by the representatives from the different 
 
 * Concrete (of lime, sand, pebbles, &c.) is inferred, from documents dated 1292, 
 to have been employed in the foundation of St. Stephen's Chapel at Westminster. 
 
228 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Yrards of the City. From thence to the time of Richard II. they were 
 returned by the Companies or Mysteries. In the Mayoralty of Nicholas 
 Brembre, (7 and 8 Rich. II.), the election was established by "Ward- 
 mote. The original number of members, in 1384, was 96 ; July 31, 
 1384, 207 ; in 1549, 197 ; Stow's Survey (1717), 231 ; Stow (1736 and 
 1755), 214 ; 1837, 240 ; reduced in 1840 to 206, the present number. 
 
 From 1660 to 1676, several attempts were made by the Aldermen 
 to limit the choice of the Wardmote to citizens of the higher class ; but 
 no permanent regulation was the result. In 1831, a Committee reported 
 that persons convicted of defrauding in weights and measures, or hav- 
 ing compounded with their creditors, or of having been bankrupt, with- 
 out paving 20*. in the pound, were ineligible as Common-Councilmen. 
 
 The members are elected annually on St. Thomas's Day (Dec. 21) 
 by the resident freemen of the 26 Wards, exclusive of Bridge Without. 
 The candidates must be freemen householders of the Ward for which 
 they declare. The Alderman of the Ward is the presiding officer at the 
 election ; and the return of the persons elected is made on Monday 
 next after the Epiphany, i.e. Plough Monday. 
 
 Each Common-Councilman wears a gown of Mazarine-blue silk, 
 trimmed with badger's fur a costume, probably, of the reign of Ed- 
 ward VI. They formerly wore black gowns ; and the change is thus 
 alluded to in the chorus to a political song of 1766 : 
 
 " Oh, London is the town of towns ! Oh, how improved a city ! 
 
 Since chang'd her Common Council's gowns from black to blue so pretty!" 
 
 They, however, discontinued wearing their gowns in court in 1775 ; 
 perhaps in consequence of a Common-Councilman being called " a Ma- 
 zarine." Nor has he escaped the severer whipping of the satirist : 
 
 " The cit a Common-Councilman by place, 
 Ten thousand mighty nothings in his face, 
 By situation, as by nature, great, 
 With wise precision parcels out the state ; 
 Proves and disproves, affirms and then denies, 
 Objects himself, and to himself replies; 
 Wielding aloft the politician rod, 
 Makes Pitt by turns a devil and a god; 
 Maintains, ev'n to the very teeth of pow'r, 
 The same thing right and wrong in half-an-hour 
 Now all is well, now he suspects a plot, 
 And plainly proves whatever is is not: 
 Fearfully wise, he shakes his empty head, 
 And deals out empires as he deals out thread ; 
 His useless scales are in a corner flung, 
 And Europe's balance hangs upon his tongue." Churchill. 
 
 The Court hold their sittings in a chamber on the north side of the 
 Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor presides in a chair of state; 
 visitors are admitted below the bar, at which petitions, &c. are pi 
 sented in due legislative form. The entire Court were entertained 
 George I. at a banquet at St. James's Palace in 1727. 
 
 CONDUITS. 
 
 Spring water was formerly conveyed to public reservoirs in the City 
 by leaden pipes from various sources in the suburbs ; viz. from Tyburn 
 in 1236, from Highbury in 1438, from Hackney in 1535, from Hampstead 
 in 1543, and from Hoxton in 1546. For these useful works the citizens 
 were indebted to the munificence of mayors, sheriffs, and other indivi- 
 duals. Stow devotes a section of his Survey to " ancient and present 
 rivers, brooks, bowers, pools, wells, and conduits of fresh water, 
 serving the City :" he also gives a long list of benefactors to the Con- 
 duits, the principal of which were in Aldgate, Leadenhall, Cornhill, West 
 
CONDUITS. 229 
 
 Cheape, Aldermanbury, Dowgate, London Wall, Cripplegate, Paul's- 
 gate, Old Fish-street, Oldbourne, &c. In a large map and drawing* 
 of London and Westminster, early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the 
 several Conduits occupy central positions in the roadways. 
 
 The Great Conduit stood at the east end of Cheapside, at its junc- 
 tion with the Poultry ; and, says Stow, " was the first sweete water 
 that was conveyed by pipes of lead under ground to this place in the 
 citie from Paddington." Another Great Conduit stood in West Cheap, 
 at the west end of Cheapside, facing Foster-lane and Old 'Change. 
 
 Another celebrated Conduit, "castellated in the middest" of Corn- 
 hill, opposite the south entrance to the present Royal Exchange, was 
 called the Tun, from its being like a tun standing on one end. It was 
 a prison-house until 1401, when "it was made a cistern for sweet 
 water, conveyed by pipes of lead from Tiborne, was from thenceforth 
 called the Conduit upon Cornhill." (Stow.) A well, which adjoined, 
 was then planked over, and a timber cage, pillory, and stocks, set upon 
 it ; these were removed in 1546, the well revived, and made a pump ; 
 since renewed, with the following inscription : " On this spot a well 
 was first made, and a House of Correction built by Henry Wallis, 
 Mayor of London in 1285. The well was discovered^ much enlarged, 
 and this pump erected in 1799, by the contributions of the Bank of 
 England, East India Company, and the neighbouring Fire Offices, 
 together with the bankers and traders of the ward of Cornhill." 
 Round the head of the pump are the devices of the Fire Offices. 
 
 " The Standard in Cornhill" was a sort of Conduit, set up in 1582,. 
 by Peter Morris, who, by an " artificial forcer," conveyed Thames water 
 in pipes of lead over the steeple of St. Magnus' Church, and from 
 thence to the north-west corner of London Wall, the highest ground of 
 all the City, where the waste of the main-pipe rising into the Standard 
 at every tide, ran by four mouths, and thus served the inhabitants, and. 
 cleansed the streets towards Bishopsgate, Aldgate, London Bridge, 
 and Stocks Market. This Conduit appears only to have run from 1598 
 to 1603 : from its site have since been measured distances, and hence 
 "the Standard in Cornhill" on our milestones. 
 
 The Priory of St. Bartholomew was supplied from Canonbury ; for 
 a water-course is specified in the grant made to Sir Richard Rich, 
 Knight, at the Suppression, as " the water from the Conduit-head of 
 St. Bartholomew, within the manor of Canonbury, as enjoyed by Prior 
 Bolton and his predecessors." 
 
 Another famous Conduit stood at the south end of Shoe-lane, Fleet- 
 street, surmounted with automaton figures, chimes, &c. (See p. 125,) 
 
 Bayswater was noted for its Conduit-Heads (see BATSWATER, p. 36) ; 
 and the association is preserved in Conduit-street in the town built be- 
 tween 1839 and 1849, in the rear of Hyde Park Gardens. 
 
 Tyburn furnished nine Conduits, and with Bayswater, was "viewed" 
 periodically by the Lord Mayor on horseback, and ladies in wagons ; 
 after which they dined at the Lord Mayor's Banqueting House, at the 
 end of Stratford-place, Oxford-road ; and when the mansion was taken 
 down in 1737, the cisterns beneath were arched over. 
 
 Strype notes that on Sept. 18, 1562, "the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and many 
 worshipful persons, rode to the conduit-heads to see them, according to the old 
 custom; and then they went and hunted a hare before dinner, and killed her; 
 and thence went to dinner at the Banqueting House at the head of the conduit, 
 where a great number were handsomely entertained by their Chamberlain. After 
 dinner they went to hunt the fox. There was a great cry for a mile, and at length 
 
 * Dimensions, 6 feet 3 inches by 2 feet 6 inches, with References and Histo- 
 rical Notes. Published by Taperell and Innes, 2 Winchester-buildings, Old 
 Broad-street, 1850. 
 
230 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the hounds killed him at the end of St. Giles's, with great hollowing and blowing 
 of horns at his death; and thence the Lord Mayor, with all his company, rode 
 through London to his place in Lombard-street." 
 
 The establishment of the Waterworks at London Bridge in 1512, and the sub- 
 sequent introduction of the New River in 1618, having superseded the use of the 
 Tyburn water, the Corporation let the water of these conduits on a lease for 43 
 years, for the sum of 7001. per annum. The Marylebone Waterworks were in the 
 possession of Hugh Merchant, lessee, in 1698 ; they had then been established 36 
 years, and supplied Covent Garden and St. Martin's-lane. These Waterworks were 
 situated at a short distance from the south end of Portland-place ; Portland 
 Chapel having been built upon the site of Marylebone Basin, which was anciently 
 a reservoir belonging to the said Waterworks. They are often mentioned in 
 old newspapers as the cause of many fatal accidents, and the scene of as many 
 suicides. There is a view of this basin, by Chatelain, in the British Museum. 
 (Smith's Marylebone, 1833, p. 147.) 
 
 " New Bond-street was at that time (1700) an open field, called Conduit-mead, 
 from one of the conduits which supplied this part of the town with water ; and 
 Conduit-street received its name for the same reason." (Pennant.) Carew Mild- 
 may, who died between 1780 and 1785, told Pennant that he remembered killing 
 a woodcock on the site of Conduit-street, when it was open country. 
 
 On Kensington Palace green was formerly a four-gabled Conduit, 
 built temp, Henry VIII.; and a Water Tower, erected by Sir John 
 Vanbrugh, temp. Queen Anne ; both were very fine specimens of brick- 
 work, and communicating by pipes with the wells on the green, supplied 
 the Palace with water, which was raised in the Tower by a horse and 
 wheel. Bv forming the great sewer for " Palace Gardens " adjoining, 
 all the wells on the green, except one, were unexpectedly drained : the 
 Conduit and Tower were then taken down, and the Palace has since 
 been supplied from Chelsea Water-works. 
 
 Westminster Abbey has been, from a very distant period, supplied 
 with spring-water from a Conduit-head at Bayswater, communicating 
 with a Gothic conduit, erected by the Dean and Chapter (bearing their 
 arms), at the lower end of the Serpentine in Hyde Park. West of the 
 Lodge at Hyde-Park-corner, and facing the Knightsbridge-road, is a 
 square building, inclosing a tank filled from the above Conduit-head, 
 for the supply of Buckingham and St. James's Palaces ; the water is 
 remarkably fine, and the building bears on a tablet " IV. G. R., 1820," 
 the date of its repair. The leaden pipes pass through the Green Park, 
 and the end of the ornamental water in St. James's Park, at a spot 
 denoted by a stone, and through Queen-square to the Abbey. 
 
 The Palace at Westminster had its conduit. In the Close Rolls 
 (Hen. III. 1244) the king commands a payment to be made out of his 
 treasury to Edward of Westminster, on account of "our conduit;" and 
 by a singular precept of the same year is a grant to Edward, that 
 "from the aqueduct which the king had constructed to the Great Hall 
 at Westminster, he might have a pipe to his own court at Westminster, 
 of the size of a goose-quill." In a memorandum of works executed 
 (Edw. II. 1307-1310,) is the following entry : 
 
 "The conduit of water coming into the palace, and into the king's mews, for 
 the falcons, which in various places was obstructed and injured, and the under- 
 ground pipes stolen, was completely repaired, and the water returned to its , 
 proper courses and issues, both at the palace and at the mews." 
 
 " A beautiful fountain, which fell in large cascades, and on jubilee days was 
 made to pour forth streams of choice wine, stood rather towards the west, and on 
 the north side of the court. Permission to make use of the surplus water which 
 flowed fiom this conduit was granted, on Feb. 3 (25 Hen. VI.), to the parish. 
 Under the date 1524, the churchwardens for the time being note, ' Mem m . the 
 King's charter for the Condett at the Pales'-gate remayneth in the custody of the 
 churchwardens.' The fountain was removed in the reign of King Charles II." 
 Walcott's Westminster. Lastly, in the very curious Harleian MS. numbered 433 
 (Rich. III. 14S4) we find mentioned " the lytell watf conduct." 
 
 A print by Godfrey, after a drawing by Hollar, (probably temp. 
 
CONDUITS. 231 
 
 Charles I.,) shews a stone conduit in St. James's-square, on or near the 
 spot now occupied by Bacon's equestrian bronze statue of William III. : 
 the whole of Pall Mall was then clear of houses, from the village of 
 Charing to St. James's Palace. The above conduit is mentioned by 
 Lord Bacon ( Works, vol. ii.) in connexion with one of his experiments. 
 In 1720, a basin of water, with a fountain and pleasure-boat, had taken 
 the place of the conduit ; and into this basin were thrown the keys of 
 Newgate Prison during the Riots of 1780. 
 
 Dalston and Islington had their conduit-heads ; and the Report of a 
 View of them, dated 1692, describes the entire course of this supply 
 until it reaches the Conduit at Aidgate. This Report mentions " the 
 White Conduit," fed by sundry springs, in a field at Islington, and re- 
 sorted to by the Carthusian friars of the monastery upon the site of 
 which Sutton founded the Charterhouse, supplied also from the above 
 conduit. It likewise gave name to White Conduit House. (See AMUSE- 
 MENTS, Tea-Gardens, p. 15.) The small stone house built over the 
 well or conduit in 1641 was taken down in 1832. It was, however, 
 survived by the Old Conduit at Dalston, the remains of which, in 1849, 
 served as a tool-house in the nursery-ground of Mr. Smith. 
 
 The Charter-house Conduit was rebuilt by the executors of Thomas Sutton. 
 It bore the date 1641, and upon it were sculptured the arms and initials of Sutton. 
 No vestige of it now remains. 
 
 William Lamb was sometime a Gentleman of the Chapel to Henry 
 VIII., citizen and clothworker : " neere unto Holborn," say s. Stow, " he 
 founded a faire conduit and a standard, with a cocke at Holborn-bridge 
 to conveye thence the waste. These were begun the six-and-twentieth 
 day of March, 1577," &c. The conduit is described by Hatton, in 1708, as 
 " near the fields (now Lamb's Conduit street), affording plenty of water, clear as 
 chrystal, which is chiefly used for drinking. It belongs to St. Sepulchre's parish, 
 the fountain-head being under a stone, marked S. S. P., in the vacant ground a 
 little south of Ormond-street, whence the water comes in a drein to this conduit; 
 and it runs thence in lead pipes (2000 yards long) to the conduit on Snow-hill, 
 which has the figure of a lamb upon it, denoting that its water comes from 
 Lamb's Conduit." 
 
 The sign of the Lamb public-house, at the north-east end of Lamb's 
 Conduit-street, is the effigy of a lamb cut in stone, believed to be one 
 of the figures which stood upon Lamb's Conduit, as a rebus on his 
 name. When the Foundling Hospital was erected, we learn from Hat- 
 ton that the conduit was taken down, and the water conveyed to the 
 east side of Red Lion-street, at the end, (now Lamb's Conduit street;) 
 an inscription stating the waters to be preserved " by building an 
 arch over the same ;" and in 1851, Mr. J. Wykeham Archer discovered, 
 beneath a trap-door in the pavement of the Lamb-yard, a short flight 
 of steps, a brick vault, and the covered well; as well as on the north 
 wall of the next yard southward, this inscription cut in wood, over a 
 recess now bricked up : 
 
 " Lamb's Conduit, the property of the City of London. This Pump is erected 
 for the Benefit of the Publick." 
 
 The water is perfectly clear, and is slightly astringent; and the 
 Mansion House is said still to derive a supply from this source. 
 
 In the garden of the house, No. 30 East-street, Lamb's Conduit 
 street, is a pump and spring ; and on the opposite wall a stone stating 
 this to be "the head of the spring Lamb's Conduit Water." 
 
 Many of the City Conduits were destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 1666 ; and others were removed in 1728, it is stated, to compel the public 
 to have the New River water laid on to their houses. 
 
 Upon great festal occasions, the Conduits flowed with wine instead 
 of water : at the procession of Anne Boleyn, June 1, 1533, the Great 
 
232 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Cheap Conduit ran with white and claret wine all the afternoon. Pro- 
 bably the last of these prodigal events was in 1727, on the anniversary 
 of the Coronation of George I., when Lamb's Conduit ran with wine. 
 
 CONVENTS. 
 
 Before we notice the Conventual establishments of the present day, 
 we shall glance at the religious houses and hospitals which, for ages 
 before the Reformation, occupied nearly two-thirds of the entire area 
 of London. Independently of St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster 
 Abbey, the following Friaries and Abbeys existed almost immediately 
 prior 'to the Reformation : 
 
 Friaries : "Black Friars, between Ludgate and the Thames ; Grey Friars, near 
 old Newgate, now Christ's Hospital ; Augustine Friars, now Austin Friars, near 
 Broad-street; White Friars, near Salisbury-square; Crouched or Crossed Friars, 
 9t. Olave's, Hart-street, near Tower-hill; Carthusian Friars, now the Charter 
 House ; Cistercian Friars, or New Abbey, East Smithfield; Brethren de Sacco, or 
 Bon Hommes, Old Jewry. 
 
 Priories : St. John's of Jerusalem, Clerkenwell; Holy Trinity, or Christ Church, 
 on the site of Duke's-place, and near Aldgate; St. Bartholomew the Great, near 
 Smithfield; St. Mary Overie's, Southwark; St. Saviour's, Bermondsey. 
 
 Nunneries: Benedictines, or Black Nuns, Clerkenwell; St. Helen's, Bishops- 
 pate-street ; St. Clare's, Minories ; Holy- well, between Holy well-lane and Norton- 
 fblgate. 
 
 Colleges, fyc. : St. Martin's-le-Grand ; St. Thomas of Acres, Westcheap; Whit- 
 tington's College and Hospital, Vintry Ward ; St. Michael's College and Chapel, 
 Crooked-lane ; Jesus Commons, Dowgate. 
 
 Hospitals (having resident Brotherhoods): St. Giles's in the Fields, near St. 
 Giles's Church; St. James's, now St. James's Palace; Our Lady of Rounceval, 
 near Charing-cross; St. Mary, Savoy, Strand; Elsing Spital, now Sion College; 
 Corpus Chrisri. in St. Lawrence Pountney; St. Passey, near Bevis Marks; St. 
 Mary Axe; Trinity, without Aldgate; St. Thomas, Mercers' Chapel; St. Bar- 
 tholomew the Less, near Smithfield; St. Giles's, and Corpus Christi, without 
 Cripplegate; St. Mary of Bethlehem, on the eastern side of Moorfields; St. Mary 
 Spital, without Bishopsgate; St. Thomas, Southwark; Lok Spital, or Lazar, 
 Kent-street, Southwark; St Katherine's, below the Tower. 
 
 Fraternities: St. Nicholas. Bishopsgate-street ; St. Fabian and St. Sebastian, 
 or the Holy Trinity, Aldersgate-street ; St. Giles. Whitecross-street ; the Holy 
 Trinity, I.eadenhall ; St. Ursula-le-Strand ; Hermitage, Nightingale-lane, East 
 Smithfield; Corpus Christi, St. Mary Spital; the same at St. Mary Bethlehem, 
 and St. Mary, Poultry. 
 
 The majority of these establishments disappeared at the Reforma- 
 tion ; but a glance at the Sutherland View of London in 1543, and at 
 Taperell and Innes's Map (early in the reign of Elizabeth), shews 
 us many of these important buildings entire, and others lying distant in 
 the fields. Almost the only remains now traceable are around the 
 Abbey Church at Westminster, where some of the monastic offices are 
 tenanted as the School ; of Grey Friars, the cloisters exist ; of the Augus- 
 tine Friars, the church ; of the" Carthusian Friars, the wooden gate and 
 a few other relics ; of St. John of Jerusalem, the gateway ; ef St. Bar- 
 tholomew the Great, the church cloister and crypt ; of St. Mary Overie's, 
 the church-choir and lady-chapel ; and at Bermondsey the great gate- 
 house remained nearly entire till 1807 ; of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, the 
 church remains; of St. Bartholomew's the Less, the church-tower; and 
 St. Katherine's "by the Tower" disappeared in 1827. Such are the 
 principal Monastic Remains in the metropolis. 
 
 Since the relaxation of the penal laws, a few Roman Catholic Con- 
 vents have been erected in London and the suburbs. Of these, the Con- 
 vent for the Order of the Sisters of Mercy was founded by subscription, 
 at Dockhead, Bermondsey, in 1838, and opened for the Sisterhood De- 
 cember 12, 1839 ; when Sister Mary, the Lady Barbara Eyre, sister to 
 Francis the eighth earl of Newbufgh, took the vows, with five other 
 
CONVENTS. 233 
 
234 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ing nine cwt.), so as effectually "to cause mischief and material injur< 
 to the comfort of those that dwell near" (Lord Eldori), when an in" 
 junction was sought to restrain the Superior, or any person acting 
 under him, from ringing the bells, which was granted by "Vice-Chan 
 cellor Kindersley, December 23, 1851. 
 
 The Convent's of the Sisters of .Notre Dame, Bedford-road, Clap- 
 ham, and of the Sisters of the Christian Retreat, Manor House, Ken- 
 nington-lane, are educational establishments : the latter is the onl\ 
 vestige of the old palace, and had for its last royal tenant Charles 1 
 when Prince of Wales. 
 
 CORXHILL, 
 
 A principal street of the City, extending from the western end o! 
 Leadenhall-street, crossing westward to the Mansion House. It was 
 named " of a corn-market time out of mind there holden." (Stoic. 
 Here was the "Tun" prison, built in 1283, upon the spot now occu- 
 pied by a pump; also a castellated conduit, and its water (i Standard' 
 (1528), near the junction of the street with Leadenhall-street. On March 
 25, 1748, a fire within twelve hours consumed between ninety and a 
 hundred houses in Cornhill (200,OOOZ. loss), including that in which was 
 born the poet Gray, whose father was an Exchange broker ; the houst 
 was rebuilt, and was, in 1774, occupied by one Natzell, a perfumer 
 and in 1824 it was still inhabited by a perfumer No. 41, a few doors 
 from Birchin-lane. (Bray ley's Londiniana, vol. iii. p. 98.) Cornhill has 
 been the site of the Merchant's Exchange for nearly three centuries. 
 On the west side, adjoining the Bank of England, was St. Christopher- 
 le-Stocks church, with a lofty pinnacled tower, which escaped the 
 Great Fire of 1666: the church was rebuilt by "Wren, but taken down 
 in 1781, and its site included within the Bank. About the same time 
 was erected Bank-buildings, in place of a block of houses built after 
 the Great Fire ; the former were removed in 1844 : the end house ex- 
 tended to the site of the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, 
 In excavating for the new Royal Exchange, in 1841, was discovered 
 a gravel pit, supposed by Mr. Tite, the architect, to have been sunk 
 during the earliest Roman occupation of London; and then to have 
 been a pond, gradually filled with rubbish. In it were found Roman 
 work, stuccoed and painted; fragments of elegant Samian ware; an 
 amphora, with terra-cotta lamps, 17 feet below the surface ; also pine- 
 wood table-.books and metal stj'les, sandals and soldier's shoes, a Roman 
 strigil, coins of Vespasian and Domitian, &c. ; and almost the very 
 foot-marks of the Roman soldier. The locality is now the most embel- 
 lished area of the City, and a nucleus of new streets and sumptuou^ 
 architecture. 
 
 Cornhill was formerly noted for its shops of " much stolen gear,'] 
 mentioned by Lydgate early in the fifteenth century ; as well as for ita 
 taverns, where was " wine one pint for a pennie, and bread to drink if 
 was given free in every tavern." Here was the famous Pope's-Heaa 
 Tavern, whence Pope's-Head alley. No. 15, with a quaint old front, wa| 
 the shop of Messrs. Birch, father and son, the celebrated cooks and con4 
 fectioners : the son, born in 1757, was Alderman of Candlewick ward^ 
 and Lord Mayor in 1815-16; and annually presented to the Mansion 
 House a splendid cake, to keep Twelfth Night. Alderman Birch wrote 
 the Adopted Child and other dramatic pieces. At a corner house, be- 
 tween Cornhill and Lombard-street, Thomas Guy, the wealthy stationer, 
 commenced business. (See HOSPITALS.) This *' lucky corner" was 
 subsequently Pidding's Lottery-office. There were several other lot- 
 tery-offices in Cornhill, including that of Carroll, knighted as Sheriff 
 in 1837, Lord Mayor in 1846. 
 
COSMOEAMAS. COVENT GARDEN. 235 
 
 Cornhill has been the scene of two calamitous fires: one in 1748, above men- 
 tioned, which commenced at a peruke-maker's in Exchange-alley, and burnt 
 from 90 to 100 houses, including the London Assurance Office, the Fleece and 
 Three Tuns Taverns, and Tom's and the Rainbow Coffee-houses, in Cornhill; 
 the Swan Tavern, with Garraway's, Jonathan's, and the Jerusalem Coffee-houses, 
 in Exchange-alley ; besides the George and Vulture Tavern, and several other 
 coffee-houses : many lives lost. The second fire commenced also at a peruke- 
 maker's, in Bishopsgate-street, adjoining Leadenhall-street, Nov. 7, 1765; when 
 all the houses from Cornhill to St. Martin Outwich church were burnt ; and the 
 church, parsonage-house, Merchant-Tailors' Hall, and several houses in Thread- 
 needle-street, were much damaged. The White Lion Tavern, purchased for 
 30001. on the preceding evening, and all the houses in White Lion Court, were 
 burnt, together with rhe houses in Cornhill and others in Leadenhall-street, 
 when several lives were lost. 
 
 COSMORAMAS. 
 
 The Cosmorama, though named from the Greek, (kostnos, world ; 
 and orama, view, because of the great variety of views,) is but an en- 
 largement of the street peep-show ; the difference not being in the 
 construction of the apparatus, but in the quality of the pictures exhi- 
 bited. In the common shows, coarsely-coloured prints are sufficiently 
 good ; in the Cosmorama a moderately good oil-painting is employed. 
 The pictures are placed beyond what appear like common windows, 
 but of which the panes are really large convex lenses, fitted to correct 
 the errors of appearance which the nearness of the pictures would else 
 produce. The optical part of the exhibition is thus complete ; but as 
 the frame of the picture would be seen, and thus the illusion be de- 
 stroyed, it is necessary to place between the lens and the view a square 
 wooden frame, which, being painted black, prevents the rays of light 
 passing beyond a certain line, according to its distance from the eye: 
 on looking through the lens, the picture is seen as if through an open- 
 ing, which adds very much to the effect. Upon the top of the frame is 
 a lamp, which illuminates the picture, while all extraneous light is 
 carefully excluded by the lamp being in a box, open in front and top. 
 
 A Cosmorama is shewn at Nos. 207 and 209 Regent-street, where 
 the most effective scenes are views of cities and public buildings. Cos- 
 moramas also form part of other exhibitions. At the Lowther Bazaar, 
 Strand, the " Magic Cave," (cosmoramic pictures,) has realised 1500J. 
 per annum, at 6d. for each admission. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN, 
 Lying between the north side of the Strand and Long Acre, has been 
 a locality of great interest and celebrity for six centuries past. In 1222 
 most of the present parish of St. Paul, CoVent Garden, was occupied by the 
 Garden ofthe Abbey at Westminster ; w/zde Convent, corruptedto Covent 
 Garden, which name occurs in a deed of 2 August, 9 Elizabeth. In 
 digging for the foundations of the new Market, in 1829, a quantity of 
 human bodies was exhumed on the north side of the area, supposed to 
 have been the Convent burial-ground. After the Dissolution, this 
 Garden and the lands belonging to it were granted by Edward VI. to 
 his uncle, the Duke of Somerset, upon whose attainder they reverted 
 to the Crown. In 1552, they were granted by patent, with seven acres, 
 called Long Acre, of the yearly value of 61. (3*. 8d., to John Earl of 
 Bedford, who built a town residence, principally of wood, upon the site 
 of Southampton-street, where it remained till 1704 ; the garden ex- 
 tending northward nearly to the site of the present Market. South- 
 ampton-street was then built, and named after Lady William Russell, 
 daughter of the Earl of Southampton ; and other streets were named 
 from the Russell family, as Russell, Bedford, Tavistock, Chandos ; 
 King and Henrietta streets, from Charles I. and his queen ; and James 
 and York streets, from the Duke of York, afterwards James II. 
 
236 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDOX. 
 
 In 16-34 Francis Earl of Bedford cleared the area; in 1640, Inigo 
 Jones built for his lordship the fine church of St. Paul, " the handsomest 
 barn in England," on the west side ; and lines of lofty houses upon 
 arcades on the north and east sides, (a near imitation of the piazza at 
 Livorno,) Tavistock-ro\v being built, in 1704, upon the south. (See 
 ARCADES, p. 18.) The area was inclosed with railings, at 60 feet from 
 the buildings; and in the centre was a dial, with a gilt ball, raised 
 upon a column. One of Hollar's prints, temp. Charles II., shews the 
 
 ?lace as above, with uniform houses, one on each side of the church, 
 n 1671, the Earl of Bedford obtained a patent for the Market, which, 
 however, was for a long time only held on the south side against the 
 garden-wall of Bedford House ; for we read of "bonefires" and fire- 
 works in the square in 1690 and 1691. 
 
 Upon the site of the large house, northward, lived Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, of " Sympathetic powder" fame, and here he had a laboratory. 
 The mansion (now Evans's Hotel) was built for Lord Orford, who won 
 the victory off Cape La Hogue, in 1692 ; the front is imagined to re- 
 semble the forecastle of a ship. The premises were first opened as an 
 hotel in 1774, but the upper portion was subsequently let as chambers. 
 From its contiguity to the Cockpit and Drury Lane theatre, Co- 
 vent Garden became surrounded with taverns ; and here, in 1711, stood 
 " Punch's Theatre," which thinned the congregation in the church. 
 Quacks used here to harangue the mob, and give advice gratis. These 
 adventitious notorieties did not improve the morals of the locality 
 
 " Where holy friars told their beads, 
 And nuns confess'd their evil deeds : 
 But oh, sad change ! oh, shame to tell 
 How soon a prey to vice it fell ! 
 How? since its justest appellation 
 Is Grand Seraglio to the nation." Sat ire, 1756. 
 
 The Piazza was formerly "a sad place ." Shenstone tells us of pick- 
 pockets in 1744, in large bodies, armed with couteaux, attacking parties 
 coming out of the playhouse. At the north-east angle, in 1779, Miss 
 Reay was shot by Hac'kman, as she was entering a carriage to return 
 from Covent Garden Theatre. 
 
 Among the notorieties of "the Garden" was, beneath the church 
 portico, " Tom King's Coffee-house," shewn in Hogarth's print of 
 " Morning :" it was a mere shed, as Murphy described it, " well known 
 to all gentlemen to whom beds are unknown." Upon the south side of 
 the market sheds was the noted " Finish," kept by Mrs. Butler, the last 
 of the Covent Garden night-taverns, and only cle'ared away in 1829. 
 
 In 1711, at the Bumper Tavern, in James-street, the best Port-wine 
 was advertised at 5s. per gallon ; and in this street, the Bird Market 
 was formerly held on Sunday mornings. In 1712, Prince Eugene at- 
 tended a musical festival at the Two Golden Balls, in Bow-street. In 
 Great Russell-street were the three celebrated coffee-houses, " "Will's," 
 " Tom's," and "Button's," the resort of Dryden, Prior, Addison, Pope, 
 Swift, and Gay : at Tom's, No. 8, Johnson and Boswell first met. (See 
 COFFEE-HOUSES, pp. 200, 204-5.) In 1711, Bohea tea was sold at 26s. 
 the pound at the Barber's Pole in Southampton-street ; where, No. 31, 
 Godfrey and Cooke's, (established 1680,) is the oldest chemist and drug- 
 gist's shop in London. At No. 27 lived David Garrick, before he re- 
 moved to Adelphi Terrace. 
 
 The Piazza houses are still mostly occupied as hotels and coffee- 
 houses. At the Bedford, frequented by Garrick, Quin, Foote, Murphy, 
 and Sheridan, was held for many years the Beefsteak Society, with Cap- 
 tain Morris for laureat ; and here and at the Piazza, Richardson's, and 
 Joy's (now Evans's), a few of the gay nobility were wont to dine. The 
 
CRANE-COURT. 237 
 
 Piazza has had for tenants Sir Peter Lely, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir James 
 Thornhill, and Richard Wilson ; and Hogarth's Marriage-a-la-Mode 
 jictures were exhibited gratis in the premises now Robins's Auction- 
 ooms. One of the earliest records of its artistic fame is, however, 
 ;hat of Charles I. establishing at the house of Sir Francis Kynaston, in 
 'the Garden," an academy called " Museum Minervae," for the instruc- 
 tion of gentlemen in arts and sciences, knowledge of medals, antiquities, 
 Dainting, architecture, and foreign languages. Mr. Cunningham's Hand- 
 wok is pleasantly anecdotic of the residence of many eminent persons 
 n this locality. Till the present century, the neighbouring streets 
 were a fashionable quarter ; and Tavistock and Henrietta streets, famed 
 or perruquiers, were crowded with carriages at shopping hours. 
 
 The parish of St. Paul, Covent Garden, is completely encircled by 
 that of St. Martin-in-the-Fields; and the boundary of each, upon the 
 site of Bedford House and grounds, towards the lower end of South- 
 ampton-street, has been contested since the eighteenth century. 
 
 Before the portico of St. Paul's church is erected the hustings for the election of 
 VIemliers of Parliament for Westminster. Contests are now restricted to one 
 day ; but in this political cockpit were fought many battles of Government and 
 People, when " madman's holiday" extended to 15 days ; the defeat of the Tory 
 party leading to the division of the Liberals into Whigs, Radicals, and Reformers. 
 
 COYENT GARDEN MARKET. See MARKETS. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN THEATRE. See THEATRES. 
 
 CRANE-COURT, 
 
 A cul-de-sac on the north side of Fleet-street, and the first court 
 eastward of Fetter-lane, was originally called Two- Crane-court. It 
 was rebuilt immediately after the Great Fire of 16G6 : the house No. 5 
 is a fine specimen of brickwork, dated 1670; and the large top house 
 was built by "Wren. Upon its site was the mansion of the well-known 
 Dr. Nicholas Barbon, with garden and fish-pond in the rear. In the 
 present house, the Royal Society met from 1710 till 1782 ; and the room 
 in which Sir Isaac Newton sat as president is preserved intact. In 
 1782, when the Society removed to Somerset-House, they sold the pre- 
 mises in Crane-court to the Scottish Hospital and Corporation, who 
 now occupy it. In the hall are some fine portraits : including Mary 
 Queen of Scots, by Zucchero ; and William IV., painted and presented 
 by Sir David "Wilkie. The ancient Scottish arms, cut in stone, which 
 adorned the original hospital, is still preserved in the inner court. The 
 house formerly included the present No. 8, in which was kept the library 
 of the Royal Society, in cedar-wood cases. Strype describes Crane-court 
 as "a very handsome open place, graced with good buildings, well 
 inhabited by persons of repute." Until about 1782 it was paved with 
 black and white marble, which was taken up by the parish, and com- 
 mon pavement substituted. In 1754 and 1755, the Society of Arts met 
 at a circulating library,* and subsequently at another house, in this 
 court ; and here the first premium of five pounds, offered for drawings 
 by boys under fourteen years of age, was adjudged to Richard Cosway, 
 afterwards R.A. In the house No. 9 was originally printed and pub- 
 lished the Traveller newspaper; at No. 10 (Palmer and Clayton's) was 
 first printed the Illustrated London News ; and in the house immedi- 
 ately opposite, the early numbers of Punch. 
 
 In Crane-court lived Dryden Leach the printer, \vho, in 1763, was arrested on 
 a general warrant, upon suspicion of having printed Wilkes's libellous North 
 Briton, No. 45. Leach was taken out of his bed in the nisiht, his papers were 
 seized, and even his journeymen and servants were apprehended ; the only foun- 
 dation for the arrest being a hearsay that Wilkes had been seen going into Leach's 
 
238 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 house: he, however, subsequently obtained a verdict and 3001. damages from 
 three of the king's messengers who had executed the illegal warrant. 
 
 CROSBY HALL, 
 
 In Bishopsgate-street, and north of the entrance into Crosby -square, is 
 a portion of Crosby Place, built upon ground leased of the Prioress of 
 St. Helen's in 1466, by Sir John Crosby, alderman, one of the sheriffs 
 in 1471, knighted by' Edward IV. in the same year, and deceased in 
 1475 : " so short a time enjoyed he that his large and sumptuous build- 
 ing ; he was buried in St. Helen's, the parish church ; a fair monument 
 to him and his lady was raised there." (Stow.) 
 
 The next possessor of Crosby Place was Richard Duke of Glouces- 
 ter, afterwards King Richard III.; and here Shakspeare* has|laid a por- 
 tion of his drama of that name ; though " the historian is compelled to 
 say, that neither at the death of Henry VI. in 1471, nor at the marriage 
 of Richard with the Lady Anne in 1473, is it probable that Richard was 
 in possession of Crosby Place ;" but here he determined upon the depo- 
 sition, and perhaps the death, of the young King Edward V., and here 
 plotted his own elevation to the vacant throne. 
 
 Crosby Place was then purchased by Sir Bartholomew Read, who kept 
 here his mayoralty, 1501. Its next possessor was Sir John Best, Mayor 
 in 1516 (the year of Evil May-day), and by him it was sold to Sir Thomas 
 More.f In 1523, More sold Crosby Place to his dearest friend Antonio 
 Bonvisi, a rich merchant of Lucca, who leased the mansion to William 
 Rostell, More's nephew ; and to "William Roper, the husband of More's 
 favourite daughter Margaret. In the reign of Edward VI., Bonvisi, 
 Rastell, and Roper were driven abroad by religious persecution, and 
 Crosby Place was forfeited, but restored on the accession of Mary. The 
 next proprietors were Jermyn Cioll, who married a cousin of Sir Thos. 
 Gresham ; and Alderman Bond, who added to the edifice a lofty tur- 
 ret, though no traces of it are now to be found. 
 
 In 1594, Sir John Spencer purchased Crosby Place, and in it kept 
 his mayoralty that year. He greatly improved the Place, and " builded 
 a most' large warehouse near there'unto." He was "the rich Spencer," 
 worth nearly a million of money ; and here he entertained Sully, when 
 he came on a special embassy from Henry IV. of France to James I. 
 Sir John Spencer's daughter and sole heiress married William, the second 
 Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, and ancestor of the 
 present Marquis. During Lord Compton 's proprietorship, the cele- 
 brated Countess of Pembroke, "Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother," 
 lived many years in Crosby Place. Spencer, Earl of Northampton, 
 son of the last-mentioned proprietor, resided here in 1638. Two 
 years previously, the property was leased to Sir John Langham, sheriffin 
 1642, during whose occupation it was frequently used as a prison 
 for Royalists. His son, Sir Stephen Langham, succeeded him ; and 
 during 'his tenancy, Crosby Place was so injured by fire that it was 
 
 * Shakspeare must have been familiar with the beauty and magnificence ofl 
 Crosby Place ; for in an assessment-roll for levying subsidies, dated October 1, 
 40th of Queen Elizabeth (1598), the name of William Shakspeare occurs in con-j 
 nexion with that of Sir John Spencer, and other inhabitants of the parish of St.) 
 Helen's, with the sum 51. 13s. 4d., the assessment, against the poet's name. 
 
 + More, after his marriage in 1507, resided for some years in Bucklersbury. 
 In what year he purchased Crosby Place is uncertain ; but it was probably soon 
 after his return from his mission to Bruges, in 1514 and 1515 ; and as this journey 
 forms the groundwork of the Utopia, there is reason to infer this charming ro- 
 mance to have been written at Crosby Place, to which the picture in the preface of 
 Sir Thomas's domestic habits may apply. There is little or no doubt that More 
 wrote his History of Richard the Third at Crosby Place, however it may be with 
 the Utopia. Here, too, More probably received Henry VIII. ; for this was just 
 the time he was in high favour with the king, who then kept his court at Castle 
 Baynard's, and St. Bride's. 
 
CROSBY HALL. 239 
 
 never after used as a dwelling. In 1672, the Upper Hall was converted 
 into a Presbyterian meeting-house by the Rev. T. Watson ; he was fol- 
 i lowed by Stephen Charnock ; Dr. Grosvenor, a pupil of Benjamin Reach ; 
 and Edmund Calamy, jun. The congregation continued to meet here 
 till 1769, when it was dispersed ; and a farewell sermon was preached 
 by Mr. Jones, the predecessor of Dr. Colly er, at Peckham. 
 
 The Hall was then let as a packer's warehouse. In 1677, the pre- 
 sent houses in Crosby Square were built on the ruins of the old man- 
 sion. In 1831, the packer's lease of the Hall expired; when public 
 attention was drawn to its restoration, as the finest example in the me- 
 tropolis of the domestic mansion of Perpendicular work. Its long list 
 of distinguished tenants, above all, its association with Eichard III., 
 greatly popularised the proposed restoration ; and, on June 27,1836, the 
 first stone of the new work was laid by Lord Mayor Copelaud, alder- 
 man of Bishopsgate; when the Hall was"fitted up with banners, strewed 
 with rushes, and an Elizabethan breakfast served upon the long tables. 
 
 On July 12, 1838, a musical performance was given in the Hall, after 
 service in St. Helen's Church, in commemoration of Sir Thomas Gre- 
 sham : the place is fraught with musical memories, for tinder its sha- 
 dow once lived Byrde, "VVilbye, and Morley, the celebrated madrigalists. 
 
 The restoration was completed in J842 : repairs have been made, and 
 much of the original mansion has been rebuilt : the Hall, the Coun- 
 cil-chamber, with the Throne-room above, remain ; and the vaults are a 
 fine specimen of early brickwork. The entrance to Crosby Square is 
 through a small gateway from Bishopsgate -street. The Hall consists 
 of one story only, lighted by lofty and elegant windows, and a beauti- 
 ful oriel window, reaching from the floor to the roof. The Council- 
 chamber* was stripped of many of its decorations in 1816 by the pro- 
 prietor, Avho removed them to adorn a dairy at his seat, Fawley Court, 
 Bucks ; but the finely coved ceiling became the property of Mr. Yar- 
 nold of Great St. Helen's, at the sale of whose Collection, in 1825, this 
 lot was purchased by Mr. Cottingham, the architect, who fitted it as 
 the ceiling of his Elizabethan Museum at No. 43 Waterloo-Bridge- 
 road: at the dispersion of which, in 1851, the relic was again sold. 
 The Throne -room has an oak-ribbed rounded roof ; and among its win- 
 dows, one reaching the entire height of the apartment. 
 
 The Great Hall, the innermost sanctuary, is 54 ft. long, 27J broad, 
 and 40 feet high. It has a minstrels' gallery, but not a da'is. 
 
 The glory of the place is, however, the roof, which is an elaborate architec- 
 tural study, and decidedly one of the finest specimens of timber-work in exist- 
 ence. It differs from many other examples in being an inner- roof ; it is of cork 
 or chestnut, of low pointed arches, approaching to an ellipse. From the main 
 Joints of intersection hang pendants, which end in octagonal ornaments, pierced 
 with small niches, each pendant forming the centre of four arches; so that in 
 whatever point it is viewed, the design presents a series of arches of elegant con- 
 struction, whilst the spandrils are pierced with perpendicular trefoil-headed 
 riches. The principal timbers are ornamented with small flowers, or knots of 
 bliage, in a hollow ; and the whole springs from octangular corbels of stone at- 
 :ached to the piers between the windows. Here the superior taste of the archi- 
 :ect is strikingly displayed in the method by which he has avoided an horizontal 
 import to his ceiling, by constructing arches of timber corresponding with the orna- 
 mental portions of the roof above the lateral windows, and thus completely avoid- 
 ng a horizontal line, which was as much the abomination of our ancient archi- 
 ;ects, as it is the favourite of our modern ones. These arches are surmounted by an 
 jlegant entablature, of a moulded architrave, a frieze of pierced quatrefoils in square 
 )anels, and an embattled cornice ; each quatrefoil contained a small flower, of which 
 fifty-six originally existed on each side of the Hall, the designs being dissimilar. 
 
 * In 1794, Mr. Capon painted for John Philip Kemble, at New Drury-lane 
 Theatre, the Council-chamber, for the play of Jane Shore; a correct restoration 
 >i the original apartment, as far as existing documents would warrant. 
 
240 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The oriel, forming an ornamented recess in the side of the Hall, has 
 ever been regarded as one of its best features : it is vaulted with stone, 
 beautifully groined, the ribs springing from small pillars attached to 
 the angles ; while knots of foliage and bosses are at the points of inter- 
 section. Among them is a ram trippant, the crest of Sir John Crosby. 
 This and the other windows have been, for the most part, filled with 
 stained glass, decorated with the armorial bearings of the several per- 
 sonages famous in the history of Crosby Place, as well as of persons 
 of taste who have contributed to its restoration. The lower aperture 
 has been closed by the same piece of wood-work that was formerly 
 elevated above it. The floor is paved with stone in small square slabs, 
 arranged diagonally. In the north wall is a fire-place, which is at least 
 singular, if not unique, in a Hall of this age. 
 
 Crosby Hall, in its restored state, is let for musical performances and 
 lectures ; and it was, for some time, the meeting-place of a Literary 
 Society. The west front of the premises, next Bishopsgate-street, has 
 been composed in the style of the timber houses of the Crosby period. 
 Here is a statue of Sir John, by Nixon ; with his arms and crest. 
 CRYPTS. 
 
 The Crypts, vaults, or undercrofts remaining in the metropolis, are 
 interesting specimens of its ecclesiastical and domestic architecture. 
 
 The Crypt or Lower Chapel of Old London Bridge belongs to the past : it was 
 constructed in the tenth or great pier, and was entered both from the upper apart- 
 ment and the street, as well as by a flight of stone stairs winding round a pillar 
 which led into it from outside the pier; whuSt in front of this latter entrance 
 the sterling formed a platform at low-water, which thus rendered it accessible 
 from the river. This Crypt was about 60 feet in length, 20 feet high, and had a 
 groined roof, supported by stone ribs springing from clustered columns; at the 
 intersections were bosses sculptured with cherubs, episcopal heads, and a crowned 
 head (probably Richard Cceur de Lion), grouped with four masks ; and near the 
 entrance was a piscina for holy water. Here was a rich series of windows looking 
 on to the water, and the floor was paved with black and white marble : herein 
 was buried Peter of Colechurch, the priest-architect of the bridge. The Chapel 
 was taken down in 1700: the Crypt had been many years used as a paper- 
 warehouse; and though the floor was always from 8 to 10 feet under the surface 
 at high-water mark, yet the masonry was so good that no water ever penetrated. 
 In front of the bridge-pier a square fish-pond was formed in the sterling, into 
 which the fish were carried by the tide, and there detained by a wire grating 
 placed over it; and "an ancient servant of London Bridge, now (1827) verging 
 upon his hundredth summer, well remembers to have gone down through the 
 Chapel to fish in the pond." Thomson's Chronicles, p. 517. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S CRYFT, Smithfield, exists in good preserva- 
 tion under the dining-hall or refectory of the priory, of which also 
 there remain other appurtenances. This crypt is of great length, has 
 a double row of beautiful aisles, with Early-Pointed arches, divided by 
 Middlesex-passage, leading from Great to Little Bartholomew-close;! 
 a door at the extremity is traditionally said to have communicated byj 
 a subterranean passage with Canonbury at Islington. Beneath the/ 
 '' Coach and Horses" public-house, and probably once the hospitium t \ 
 within the west gate of the monastery, is the remains of another crypt. 
 
 Bow CHURCH CRTPT, Cheapside, consists of columns and simple) 
 Romanesque groinings, said to be of the age of the Conqueror : it is 
 the crvpt of the ancient Norman church, but it was mistaken by Wren 
 for Roman workmanship. It has long been used as a dead-house, is 
 ventilated, and the coffins are put in fair order. At Messrs. Grow- 
 cock's, in Bow Churchyard, is a small portion of another crypt or 
 undercroft. It is difficult to understand how Wren was led "to the 
 belief that the above remains were lloman ; unless, as was pointed out 
 by Mr. G wilt, in an admirable description of the crypt (Vetusta Monu- 
 menta, vol. v. plates Gl to 65), Wren was deceived by'the fact that Roman 
 
CRYPTS. 241 
 
 bricks are used in the construction of the arches ; or did he mean that 
 they were more Romano, or in the Roman manner ? 
 
 GARRAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 3 Change-alley, Cornhill, has a 
 Crypt of fourteenth and sixteenth century architecture : it is of eccle- 
 siastical character, and has a piscina ; but is now used as the coffee-house 
 wine-cellar. 
 
 GERARD'S HALL CRYPT, Basing-lane, was the only remaining ves- 
 tige of the mansion of John Gisors, pepperer, Mayor of London in 
 1245 ; " a great house of old time, builded upon arched vaults, and with 
 arched gates of stone brought from Cane in Normandy" (Stow); Gisors' 
 Hall being corrupted to Gerard's Hall. The date of this crypt was pro- 
 bably late in the thirteenth century. The groined roof was supported 
 by sixteen columns : the crypt, although generally resembling a subter- 
 ranean ecclesiastical edifice, was constructed solely for the stowage of 
 merchandise, and was thus an example of the warehouse of the wealthy 
 London merchant of the thirteenth century. The great house called 
 he Vintrie stood upon similar vaults, which were used for the stow- 
 ge of French wines; it was likewise occupied, in 1314, by Sir John 
 Jisors, who was a vintner. Gerard's Hall Crypt, with the modern 
 un which had replaced the hall, was removed in forming a new street 
 n 1852, when some curious old merchant's marks were found. 
 
 Here was preserved the tutelar effigies of " Gerard the gyant," a fair specimen 
 f a London sign, temp. Charles II. Here also was shewn the staff used by 
 Jerard in the wars, and a ladder to ascend to the top of the staff; and in the 
 eighbouring church of St. Mildred, Bread-srreet, hangs a huge tilting-helmet, 
 aid to have been worn by the said gyant. The staff, Stow thinks, may rather 
 lave been used as a May-pole, and to stand in the hall decked with evergreens 
 t Christmas ; the ladder serving for decking the pole and hall-roof. /. W. Archer. 
 
 GUILDHALL CRYPT is the finest and most extensive undercroft re- 
 naining in London, and is the only portion of the ancient hall (erected 
 n 1411) which escaped the Great Fire of 1666. It extends the whole 
 
242 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Second's time) had been raised to strengthen the ceiling and sustain 
 the weight of the Parliament-chamber floor, together with strong rafters 
 of oak, supported by twelve octagonal oak posts, on stone plinths. This 
 building was taken down about the year 1823, when it was ascertained 
 that the vaults had been the ancient kitchen of the Old Palace ; and 
 near the south end the original buttery-hatch was discovered, together 
 with an adjoining pantry or cupboard." (Britton and Brayley's West- 
 minster Palace, p. 421.) The Conspirators obtained access to the 
 vaults through a house in the south-east corner of Old Palace-yard, 
 which was at one time occupied as the Ordnance Office, and afterwards 
 as the entrance to the House of Lords. 
 
 Since the Gunpowder Plot, Nov. 5, 1605, it has been the custom to search 
 and carefully examine all the vaults and passages under the Houses of Par- 
 liament, previous to the Sovereign opening the Session. This precautionary in- 
 spection, which is continued to the present day, is performed hy certain officers 
 of Parliament, headed by the Usher of the Black Rod, who go through the vaults, 
 and examine the various nooks and recesses that might, if Conspirators were so 
 inclined, again hold combustibles, with the intent, " suddenly and with one 
 blast, to blow up and tear in pieces" those assembled on the occasion in Parlia- 
 ment. The search takes place on the morning of the day of the Royal ceremonial. 
 
 HOSTELRY OF THE PRIOR OF LEWES CRYPT was discovered in 
 Carter-lane, Tooley-street, Southwark, nearly opposite St. Olave's 
 Church, in 1832. This vaulted chamber was supported by six demi- 
 columns, attached to the side walls ; the columns and arches of wrought 
 stone, and the vaultings of chalk. In 1834 was discovered another 
 crypt-like chamber, with a plain, massive, round pillar in the centre, 
 from which sprang elliptic-ribbed arches, forming a groined roof. This 
 vault is supposed to have been the cellar of the " Hostelry for Travellers 
 which had the sign the ' Walnut Tree'" (Stow). Both" crypts origin- 
 ally belonged to the town lodging of the priors of Lewes ; the larger 
 crypt being under the great hall, which had been used as the grammar 
 school-room of St. Olave's, founded by Queen Elizabeth. These crypts 
 were destroyed in making the approaches to the New London Bridge. 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE CRYPT, or Under-chapel, is considered to be the 
 oldest portion of the palace. It consists of a series of strongly-groined 
 stone arches, supported centrally by a short, massive column, and by 
 brackets in the side walls. These vaults are now converted into cellars; 
 but might, possibly, have been originally used for divine worship, as 
 there are two entrances to them from the cloisters. 
 
 "Lambeth Palace Chapel retains a crypt, a doorway, and windows of great 
 beauty, but the chapel has otherwise been quite barbarised ; and the remainder of 
 this archiepiscopal residence, though founded as early as the reign of Richard 
 Coaur-de-Lion (before which it was a residence of the Bishop of Rochester), now 
 forms only a confused medley of buildings, with no fragment older than the 
 fifteenth century." Weale's London, p. 145. 
 
 LAMB'S CHAPEL CRYPT, Monkwell-street, is a remarkably pure 
 and finished specimen of the Norman style. The vaulted roof has been 
 supported by nine short columns, six of which remain, with very ornate 
 capitals ; and the intersecting ribs of the groining are decorated with 
 zig-zag moulding and a spiral ornament. The carved work is of Caen 
 stone. The chapel was originally " the Hermitage of St. James's" in! 
 the wall, a cell to the Abbey of Quorndon, in Leicestershire, and said 
 to have been founded by Henry III., but evidently upwards of a een-j 
 tury earlier. The chapel and its appurtenances were granted by Henry 
 VIII. to William Lamb, who bequeathed it and endowed it at his death 
 for the benefit of the Clothworkers' Company, of which he was a mem- 
 ber. (See LAMB'S CONDUIT, page 231.) 
 
 LEATHER-SELLERS' HALL CRYPT, at the east end of St. Helen's- 
 place, Bishopsgate, adjoins the church of St. Helen on the north side, 
 
CRYPTS. 243 
 
244 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of St. Faith (See CHURCHES, St. Paul's, page 92). Here, in " Painters' 
 Corner," near Reynolds and between Barry and Wren, was buried, Dec. 
 30, 1851, J. M.W. Turner, R.A., aged 79, the greatest landscape-painter 
 the world ever produced. In the crypt of old St. Paul's (see page 85) 
 the stationers of Paternoster-row had warehoused their stocks of books, 
 which were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S CRYPT, WESTMINSTER PALACE, also called " St. 
 Mary's Chapel in the Vaults," formed the basement of St. Stephen's 
 Chapel, founded by King Stephen, and rebuilt by Edward I. in 1292 : 
 a roll of this date records the purchase of two shiploads of chalk, be- 
 sides burnt lime, ashes, and sand, for the foundation of the chapel, 
 thus proving it to have been raised on a concrete basis; and how sub- 
 stantially is proved by the Crypt remaining in excellent preservation, 
 notwithstanding the superstructure has been twice destroyed by fire 
 in 1298 and 1834. Like other crypts, this is of low proportions, but has 
 no division by detached pillars; the masses projecting inwards, and divid- 
 ing window from window in short massive clusters, the vault-ribs and 
 all other members partaking of the same bold, thick character ; whilst 
 the tracery of the windows is exquisitely beautiful. " Strength, solidity, 
 fine proportions, and skilful execution, are the characteristics of this 
 basement chapel" (Britton and Brayley), which " is the last fragment in 
 London that can be decidedly classed in the first or progressive period 
 of English architecture." (Weale's London.) This crypt was fitted up 
 as the state dining-room of the Speaker of the House of Commons : it 
 was much damaged in the great fire of 1834, but has been restored as a 
 chapel for the officers of the House of Commons ; and during the 
 works, on January 17, 1852, the workmen discovered, beneath a win- 
 dow-seat, the embalmed body of an ecclesiastic, without any coffin. The 
 corpse lay with its feet towards the east (said to be an unusual position 
 for an ecclesiastic) ; it was wrapped in several folds of waxed cloth 
 sewn together with coarse twine; its right hand, on which was pro- 
 bably the ring or jewelled glove, was lying on the breast. Over the 
 left arm was the pastoral staff a crook of oak, beautifully carved. 
 On the feet were sandals, with leathern soles sharply pointed. Upon 
 removing the cere-cloth, the face proved to be in remarkable preser- ; 
 vation, with hair on the chin and upper lip. The remains are pre- 
 sumed to be those of William Lyndwoode, Bishop of St. David's, who 
 founded a chantry in St. Stephen's Chapel, and died in 1446 ; and 
 in the patent-roll of 32 Henry VI. there is a license to the bishop's 
 executors for one or two chaplains to celebrate divine service daily 
 " for the soul of the aforesaid bishop, whose body lies buried in the said 
 Tinder-chapel," &c. The relics were inspected by a deputation from 
 the Society of Antiquaries on Jan. 31, 1852 ; and a cast of the face 
 having been taken for Her Majesty, the remains were placed in an elm 
 coffin, and buried in a grave in the north cloister of Westminster Abbey ; 
 the pastoral staff and sandals being sent to the British Museum. 
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. The Crypt, or large range of vaults, be- 
 neath the White Tower, is half underground, and now covered by mo-, 
 dern brickwork. These vaults have been occupied as prisons ; and 
 among the inscriptions still remaining on the walls of the subter- 
 ranean cells is one cut by the unfortunate Bishop of Rochester, John 
 Fisher, who was beheaded for his opposition to the Reformation. 
 
 CURFEW, OR COUVRE-FEU. 
 Although the Couvre-feu law* was abolished by Henry I., who re- 
 
 The Couvre-feu formerly in the collection of the Rev. Mr. Gostling, and so 
 often engraved, passed into the possession of Horace \Valpole, and was sold at 
 
CURFEW. 245 
 
 stored the use of lamps and candles at night after the ringing of the 
 Curfew-bell, which had been prohibited by his predecessors, (Will. 
 Malmesb. fol. 88,) yet the custom of ringing the bell long continued; 
 and in certain parishes of the metropolis, and in some parts of the 
 country, to the present time 
 
 " The curfew tolls the knell of parting day." 
 
 Among the charges directed for the wardmote inquests of London, 
 in the second mayoralty of Sir Henry Colet (A.D.1495),it is said : " Also 
 yf there be anye paryshe clerke that ryngeth curfew after the curfewe 
 beronge at Bowe Chyrche, or Saint 'Brydes Chyrche, or Saint Gyles 
 without Cripelgat, all suche to be presented." (Knight's Life of Dean 
 Colet, p. 6.) The same charge remained in the wardmote inquest 1649. 
 
 " The church of St. Martin 's-le-Grand, with those of Bow, St. Giles's, Cripple- 
 gate, and Barkin, had its Curfew-bell long after the servile injunction laid on 
 the Londoners had ceased. These were sounded to give notice to the inhabi- 
 tants of those districts to keep within, and not to wander in the streets; which 
 were infested by a set of ruffians, who made a practice of insulting, wounding, 
 robbing, and murdering the people whom they happened to meet abroad during 
 the night." Strype's Stow, v. i. book iii. p. 106. 
 
 "The Couvre-feu is still rung, at eight o'clock, at St. Edmund the King, 
 Lombard-street. At Bishopsgate (St. Botolph's) ; St. Leonard's, Shoreditch ; Christ- 
 church, Spitalfields ; St. Michael's, Queenhithe ; St. Mildred's, Bread-street;* St. 
 Antholin's, Budge-row ; and in some other City churches, there are evening bells, 
 which are popularly known as the couvre-feu, but some of which are really, I be- 
 lieve, prayer-bells. (See CHURCHES, St. Mary-le-bow, p. 143.) 
 
 " On the southern side of the Thames, the couvre-feu was, till within these 
 ix or seven years, nightly rung at St. George's Church, Borough." Mr. Syer 
 burning: Proceedings of the British Archaeological Association, April 12, 1848. 
 
 Mr. Cuming also states that at St. Peter's Hospital, Newington 
 
 e Fishmongers' Almshouses, taken down in 1851,) " there is a bell 
 rung every evening from eight o'clock till nine, which the old parish- 
 ioners were wont to denominate the couvre-feu; but it^is now said 
 that this is rung to warn all strangers from the premises, and the 
 almspeople to their several apartments." 
 
 The Curfew was not always rung at eight o'clock, for the sexton 
 In the old play of the Merry Devil of Edmonton (4to, 1631) says : 
 
 " Well, 'tis nine a cloke, 'tis time to ring curfew." 
 The Curfew-bell, strictly as such, had probably fallen into disuse pre- 
 vious to the time of Shakspeare, who, in Romeo and Juliet, applies the 
 term to the morning bell : 
 
 " The second cock hath crow'd, 
 The curfew-bell has rung, 'tis three o'clock." 
 
 At Charterhouse, the Chapel bell, (which bears the arms and initials 
 of Thomas Sutton,the founder, and the date 1631,) is rung at eight and 
 nine to warn the absent pensioner of the approaching hour ; and this 
 practice is, we think, erroneously adduced as a relic of Curfew-ringing. 
 
 " There is one peculiarity attached to the ringing, which is calculated to serve 
 the office of the ordinary passing-bell ; and that is the number of strokes, which 
 
 Strawberry Hill, in 1842, to Mr. William Knight. It is of copper, riveted together, 
 and in general form resembles the "Dutch-oven" of the present day. It is 
 stated to have been used for extinguishing a fire, by raking the wood and embers 
 to the back of the hearth, and then placing the open part of the couvre-feu close 
 against the back of the chimney. In February 1842, Mr. Syer Cuming purchased 
 of a curiosity-dealer in Chancery-lane a couvre-feu closely resembling Mr. Gost- 
 ling's ; and Mr. Cuming considers both specimens to be of the same age, of the 
 close of the 15th or early part of the 16th century; whereas Mr. Gostling's speci- 
 men was stated to be of the Norman period. A third example of the couvre-feu 
 fexists in the Canterbury Museum. 
 
 * The bell at this church was silenced by order of vestry, December 1847. 
 
246 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 must correspond with the number of pensioners. So that, when a brother pen- 
 sioner has deceased, his companions are informed of their loss by one stroke of the 
 bell less than on the preceding evening." Chronicles of Charterhouse, p. 180. 
 
 CURIOSITY-SHOPS. 
 
 The principal locality for dealers in Curiosities, including ancient 
 furniture and carvings, pictures, china and enamels, painted glass, 
 metal-work, and church-furniture, has long been in Wardour- street, 
 Soho and Oxford-street. Formerly it was also noted for its book- 
 stalls ; but in the spreading taste for Curiosities within the last quarter 
 of a century, the bookstalls have mostly disappeared, and the Curiosity- 
 dealers here now number sixteen. Still, "Wardour-street is especially 
 famous for old furniture and carvings ; Hanway-street (formerly Han- 
 way-yard, at the east end of Oxford-street,) being more exclusively 
 celebrated for its china-dealers. There is also a good specimen of a 
 well-stocked Curiosity-shop in Bear-street, Leicester-square. These 
 several shops are principally supplied from the Continent ; but it is a 
 profitable business to collect specimens from our provinces, where an 
 Elizabethan bedstead has been bought for five shillings, and sold for 
 twice as many pounds in Wardour-street. The marks on porcelain de- 
 note its age and manufacture, but there is no such warrant for genuine 
 old furniture ; and rough work which has just left the carver's hands, 
 and has been pickled and charred, ante-dated, and even shattered, to imi- 
 tate age, is often sold for the ingenuity of the two preceding centuries. 
 
 The revival of the style of Louis XV. has done much to foster this false taste ; 
 and our collectors, "not content with ransacking every pawnbroker's shop in 
 London and Paris for old buhl, old porcelain, and old plate, old tapestry and old 
 frames, even set every manufacturer at work, and corrupt the taste of every mo- 
 dern artist by the renovation of this wretched style." Hope's Hist. Architecture. 
 
 The dispersion of famed collections, (as Strawberry Hill, in 1842; Mr. 
 Beckford's, in 1845 ; and Stowe, in 1849,) is a benefit, direct and indirect,, 
 to Curiosity -dealers. The taste for Mediaeval art in church-fittings and 
 painted glass has also greatly encouraged this trade, as well as the 
 copying of olden works in new materials. Certain auction-rooms are 
 noted for the sale of Curiosities: as Christie and Manson's, King- 
 street, St. James's, especially for pictures. Phillips's, New Bond-street ; 
 Foster's, Pall-mall ; Oxenham's, Oxford-street ; and Deacon's, Ber- 
 ners-street, are known for their sales of articles ofvertu, and collections, 
 as well as " importation sales." Here the accumulation of a lifetime 
 is often distributed in a week or a day. (See CASTINGS IN WOOD, p. 66; 
 and CHELSEA CHINA, p. 77.) 
 
 The Fox public-house, in Wardour-street, was formerly kept by Sam House, 
 " publican and republican," who commenced politician in 1763, and became con- 
 spicuous in the memorable Westminster election -contest between Lord Lincoln 
 aud Mr. Fox, in 1780: a picture, with Fox arm-in-arm with House, was sold by 
 Christie and Manson in 1845. In a pawnbroker's window in Wardour-street, the 
 writer remembers to have seen the Ireland Shakspearean Mss. (" great and im- 
 pudent forgery," Dr. Parr) lying for sale upon a family Bible. 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE (THE), 
 
 Lower Thames-street, immediately east of Billingsgate-dock, was origin- 
 ally designed by David Laiug : the foundations were laid in 1813, upon 
 piles driven into the old bed of the river, and extending eastward be- 
 yond the site of the Custom-House, destroyed by fire Feb. 12, 1814, when 
 the greater part of the trade records were consumed. The northern eleva- 
 tion, fronting Thames-street, is plain ; but the south front towards the 
 Thames has in the wings Ionic colonnades and a projecting centre, the 
 
CUSTOM-HOUSE. 247 
 
 attic of which was decorated with terra-cotta bas-relief figures of the Arts 
 and Sciences, Commerce and Industry ; and natives of the principal coun- 
 tries of the globe, with emblems of their arts. The clock-dial, nine feet 
 in diameter, was supported by colossal figures of Industry and Plenty; 
 and the royal arms by Ocean and Commerce. Unfortunately, the piling 
 gave way ; and in 182.5 the re-centre was taken down, the foundation 
 relaid, and the Thames front erected as we now see it, by Sir Robert 
 Smirke. The expense was 180,OOOZ., which, added to the original ex- 
 penditure, 255,OOOZ., made the total cost of the edifice nearly half a mil- 
 lion, or two-thirds the cost of St. Paul's Cathedral. The river facade is 
 488 feet in length, or 90 feet longer than the General Post-Office, and 
 exceeding by 30 feet the National Gallery. It is fronted by a noble es- 
 planade, or quay, reminding us how many opportunities have been lost 
 of embanking the river with public walks from the plans of Wren to 
 those of Sir Frederick Trench, John Martin, and Thomas Allom. As 
 the breadth of the quay is not equal to^the height of the Custom-House, 
 its faade, which is of Portland stone, is not seen to advantage from 
 that point, but from London Bridge or the middle of the river. 
 
 The interior contains, besides warehouses and cellars, about 170 
 apartments, classified for contiguity and convenience of the several de- 
 partments. In the Board-room are portraits of George III. and George 
 IV., the latter by Lawrence. The Long Room, in the centre of the 
 building, is probably the largest apartment of its kind in Europe : its 
 length is 190 feet, width 66 feet, and height between 30 and 40 feet ; 
 but it is not so handsome as the "Long Room" taken down after the 
 failure of the foundation. The walls and ceiling are stone tint, and the 
 floor is of oak ; and the room is mainly warmed by a large Arnott stove. 
 The seventy-four officers and clerks form three" divisions : the inward 
 department, with its collectors, clerks of rates, clerks of ships' entries, 
 computers of duties, receivers of plantation-duties, wine- duties, &c. ; 
 the outward department, with its cocket-writers, &c ; and the coast de- 
 partment. Here a Trinity-House officer sits for the collection of light- 
 house dues ; and here is a constant succession of ship-brokers and ship- 
 owners, and their clerks, and of skippers and wholesale merchants. 
 Defoe relates Count Tallard to have said, that nothing gave him so true 
 and great an idea of the richness and grandeur of England as seeing the 
 multitude of payments made in a morning in the Long Room ; since 
 which was said, the Customs have increased tenfold. 
 
 On the ground-floor is the Queen's Warehouse, with a diagonal- ribbed 
 roof. The cellars in the basement form a groined crypt, and are fire- 
 proof; the walls are extraordinarily thick ; and here are kept the wines 
 and spirits seized by the officers of the Custom-house. The condemned 
 articles are disposed of quarterly by auctions or " Custom-House 
 Sales," at which the lots are not produced, but have been previously 
 viewed in the Queen's Warehouse and at the Docks. The total num- 
 ber of persons employed in the Custom-House is 1800, and the annual 
 amount of salaries 200,000?. 
 
 The following is an average daily report of the principal articles passed through 
 the Custom-House, and issued to the public for consumption ; and to arrive at a 
 year's amount these figures must be multiplied in many instances 300 times : An- 
 chovies, 1455 Ibs. ; arrow-root, 101 cwt. ; cattle, 172 ; cocoa and coffee, 78,684 IDS.; 
 corahs, 1042 pieces; elephants' teeth, 395; gloves, 2237 pairs; gum, 450 packages; 
 handkerchiefs, 791 pieces; hemp, 587 bales; hides, 780; honey, 17 cwt. ; horns, 
 1500; indigo, 274 chests; iron, 5760 bars; isinglass, 6 cwt.; jute, 636 bales; 
 leeches, 180L value; lemon-peel, 20 pipes; lithographic stones, 953; manufac- 
 tures, 6352Z. value ; marble, 12 blocks ; molasses, 1176 cwt. ; nutmegs, 4141bs. ; 
 oil, 546 packages ; oil, scented, SlOlbs. ; onions, 800 bushels ; pepper, 11, 8321bs., 
 quicksilver, 4089 bottles ; rags, 67 bales ; rice, 215 cwt. ; sago, 70 cwt. ; sheep, 
 65; silk, 382 bales; spelter, 638 cakes ; spirits, 19,875 gallons ; sugar, 11,151 cwt. ; 
 
248 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDON. 
 
 tallow, 327 cwt.; tea, 89, 742 Ibs.; timber, 1900 loads; tobacco, 14, 143 Ibs. ; whale- 
 fins, 279 bundles; wine, 10,765 gallons; wool, 354 bales. Warehoused in one 
 day: anchovies, 250 barrels ; butter, 539 casks; coffee, 2650 bags; cork, 19 bales ; 
 hams, 500; manufactures, 168 packages; marble mortars, 50 ; mats, 1000 ; rai- 
 sins, 750 drums; rice, 581 bags ; rum, 111 casks; spirits, 554 cases or casks; 
 sugar, 1345 packages; tallow, 191 packages; tobacco, 990 packages; tin, 1075 
 slabs ; timber, 12,635 deals and pieces ; wine, 896 cases or casks. 
 
 The present is the fifth Custom-House built nearly upon the same 
 site. The first was erected by John Churchman, Sheriff of London in 
 1385. (Stow.} The second was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
 and appears in the 1543 View of London with several high-pitched 
 gables and a water-gate : it was burnt in the Great Fire of 1066. It was 
 rebuilt by "Wren, at a cost of 10,OOOJ. ; and this third House was con- 
 sumed by fire in 1718, and was the only one of Wren's buildings that 
 in his long life was destroyed. This Custom-House was replaced by 
 Ripley, who introduced the " Long Room," and embellished the river- 
 front with Ionic columns, pediments, and a Tuscan colonnade : this 
 fourth House was burnt in 1814. 
 
 The taxes levied on imported and exported commodities having been re- 
 peatedly altered, to meet the necessities of the State, or serve political purposes, 
 their amount at different periods is not of itself a correct test of the increase of 
 trade. In 1613, the date of one of the earliest notices preserved, the Customs 
 duties collected in London amounted to 109, 5721., being nearly thrice as much 
 as was collected in all the rest of the kingdom (England), the whole Customs du- 
 ties then amounting to 148,075*. In 1711, about the period when M. Tallard made 
 the preceding remark, a similar proportion was observed: London then yielding 
 1,268,095*., and all England 1, 614,1 76*. In 1849, the proportion was about one- 
 half: London paying 11,070,176/., and the whole empire 22,483,956*. The amount 
 collected in London reached its highest point in 183511,773,616*.; in 1848, the 
 next highest, it was 11,193,707*. Notwithstanding the tenfold increase since 1711, 
 there are now no heaps of money at the Custom-House such as excited Tallard 's 
 admiration. The duties are paid irtfo the Receiver-General's Office in the 
 Custom-House, and almost invariably in paper, so that only very small sums of 
 metallic money pass in collecting the 22,483,956*. 
 
 The total value of the produce conveyed into and from London, including the 
 home and foreign markets, is stated at 65 millions sterling. 
 
 DAGUERREOTYPE (THE). 
 
 The first experiment made in England with the Daguerreotype was 
 exhibited by M. St. Croix, on Friday, September 13, 1839, at No. 7 
 Piccadilly, nearly opposite the southern Circus of Regent-street ; when 
 the picture produced was a beautiful miniature representation of the 
 houses, pathway, sky, &c., resembling an exquisite mezzotint. M. St. 
 Croix subsequently removed to the Argyll Rooms, Regent-street, where 
 his experimental results became a scientific exhibition. One of the 
 earliest operators was Mr. Goddard. The discovery was patented by 
 Mr. Miles Berry, who sold the first license to M. Claudet for 100J. or 
 200?. a-year ; and in twelve months after disposed of the patent to 
 Mr. Beard, who, however, did not take a Daguerreotype portrait until 
 after Dr. Draper had sent from New York a portrait to the editor of 
 the Philosophical Magazine, with a paper on the subject. 
 
 "With reference to the conditions of a London atmosphere, as regards 
 its influence upon Daguerreotypic or Photographic processes, there 
 are some very peculiar phenomena ; for the following details of which 
 we are indebted to Mr. Robert Hunt, the author of many valuable 
 researches in Photography. 
 
 The yellow haze which not unfrequently prevails, even when there is no actual 
 fog over the town itself, is fatal to all chemical change. This haze is, without 
 doubt, an accumulation, at a considerable elevation, of the carbonaceous matter 
 
DAIRIES. 249 
 
 from the coal-fires, &c. Although a day may appear moderately clear, if the sun 
 assume a red or orange colour, it will be almost impossible to obtain a good Da- 
 guerreotype. Notwithstanding in some of the days of spring our photographers 
 obtain very fine portraits or views, it must be evident to all who examine an exten- 
 sive series of Daguerreotypes, that those which are obtained in Paris and New York 
 are very much more intense than those which are generally procured in London. 
 This is mainly dependent upon the different amounts and kinds of smoke diffused 
 through the atmospheres respectively of these cities. At the same time, there is 
 no doubt the peculiarly humid character of the English climate interferes with 
 the free passage of those solar rays which are active in producing photographic 
 change. It was observed by Sir John Herschel, when he resided at Slough, that 
 a sudden change of wind to the east almost immediately checked his photo- 
 ;raphic experiments at that place, by bringing over it the yellew atmosphere of 
 iiondon : this is called by the Berkshire farmers blight, from their imagining that 
 mut and other diseases in grain are produced by it. 
 
 It is a curious circumstance, that the summer months, June, July, and August, 
 lotwithstanding the increase of light, are not favourable to the Daguerreotype. 
 ]"his arises from the fact, now clearly demonstrable, that the luminous powers of 
 lie sunbeam are in antagonism to the chemical radiations, and as the one in- 
 reases, the other diminishes. This may be imitated by a pale yellow glass, 
 rhich, although it obstructs no light completely, cuts off the chemical rays, and 
 ntirely prevents any photographic change taking place. 
 
 DAIRIES. 
 
 Little is positively known of the London Dairy system, save that 
 gpven by Mr.Youatt, who in 1834 stated the number of cows requisite 
 br the supply of the metropolis with milk to be 12,000 ; and the present 
 lumber is estimated at 13,000. Elsewhere it is stated at 60,000 cows, 
 ielding upwards of 100,000 gallons of milk per day. Again, Mr. Rugg, 
 if.R.C.S., says, in his Observations on London Milk : "taking London 
 
250 CUEIOSITIES OF LOXDOX. 
 
 At Islington, a few years since, there existed Laycock's Dairy, the 
 largest in the metropolis, but since divided. It consisted of fourteen 
 acres, surrounded by a high wall, and nearly covered with buildings. 
 There were upwards of 400 cows, which were milked by women at three 
 o'clock in the morning and at noon. The cows were kept in stalls; mangel- 
 wurzel was their chief food, alternating with turnips, cabbages, carrots, 
 and clover, and oil-cake to fatten them for Smithfield Market. They 
 were fine sleek animals, and were currycombed every day. As it was 
 requisite to have 400 cows to milk each day, there were more than 
 that number kept on the premises ; and there was a hospital for cows 
 to calve in, and where those unwell received medical treatment. The 
 dairy and utensils were scoured with hot water twice a-day. Grains for 
 the cows were kept in immense pits, where, if covered up, they would 
 remain good for seven years. The capital locked up in this Dairy was 
 immense, as each of the cows was worth more than 201., and four farms 
 were kept for supplying them with food. Within the walls also were 
 layers, where great numbers of the oxen brought by steam from Ireland 
 and Scotland were rested, sheltered, and fed for a few da} r s ; and upon 
 Sundays upwards of 2000 animals might be seen thus provided for. 
 
 The Yorkshire cow is generally the favourite in the London dairies, 
 because she is of more value for fattening than almost any other ; and 
 gives a larger proportion of milk, although it be of a poorer quality. 
 
 The Friern Dairy Farm, beyond Peckham Rye, in Surrey, is a novel 
 establishment for supplying the metropolis with milk, and comprises 
 about 250 acres. The cows have fine air and good attendance ; are 
 fed on mangel-wurzel, parsnips, turnips, and kohl-rabi (Jewish cab- 
 bage), and unlimited grass in the pastures ; so that 24 quarts of milk 
 per day is not an unusual yield for a single cow. The cow-sheds are 
 divided into 50 stalls each; every stall is marked with a number, a 
 corresponding number being marked on one horn of the cow to whom 
 it belongs ; and in winter-time, or any inclement season (for they all 
 sleep out in fine weather), each cow deliberately finds out and walks 
 into her own stall. Beside these sheds, in a cottage, live the keepers, 
 milkers, and attendants. The first milking begins at 11 at night, and 
 the second at past 1 in the morning. The milk is strained and put 
 into large tin cans, which are barred across the top and sealed ; and is 
 thus conveyed in a van to the Dairy in London, between 3 and 4 in the 
 morning. Here the seals are examined and taken off ; the milkmen's 
 tin pales are filled, fastened at top, and sealed as before ; and away they 
 go on their " walks," the milk being drawn of by a tap as required. 
 (See Dickens' 's Household Words, No. 33.) 
 
 Milk-street, north of Cheapside, is so called, " as is supposed, of milk sold 
 there" (Stow); here was born Sir Thomas More, "the brightest star that ever 
 shone in that via lactea " (Fuller). 
 
 The milkmaid has almost disappeared from our streets; she was never like 
 " the country wench" of Sir Thomas Overbury : 
 
 " On doors the sallow milkmaid chalks her gains ; 
 Ah, how unlike the milkmaid of the plains !" Gay's Trivia, b. ii. 
 
 We have lost, too, the milkmaids' May-day festival, such as Pepys saw Nell 
 Gwynne enjoying May 1, 1667. (See DEURY LAKE.) 
 
 " Alack, 
 "What's a May-day milking-pail without a garland and a fiddle ?" 
 
 Col. Martin, 1685. 
 
 In Tempest's Cryes of London is a print of a merry milkmaid, named Kate 
 Smith, dancing with a milk -pail, hung round with borrowed silver cups and tan- 
 kards ; flowers and ribbons upon her head. Later, the plate and other decorations 
 were piled up, and carried by two chairmen upon a wooden horse, the milkmaids 
 dancing before it. Sometimes was substituted a cow, with her horns gilt, and 
 her body nearly covered with ribbons in bows and rosettes, interspersed with 
 green oaken leaves and bunches of flowers. 
 
DAY IN LONDON DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. 
 
 251 
 
 " Milk Fair," with its lowing cows and squalling children, is held to this day 
 near the Spring- Garden entrance to St. James's Park, by privilege granted to the 
 gate-keepers. In Tom Brown's time, 1700, the noisy milk -folks in the park cried, 
 A can of milk, ladies .' A can of red cow's milk, sir ! 
 
 Asses' milk is a restorative of our day, and is a fashionable conceit in Gay's 
 London, where 
 
 " Before proud gates attending asses bray, 
 Or arrogate with solemn pace the way ; 
 These grave physicians with their milky cheer 
 The love-sick maid and dwindling beau repair." Trivia, b. ii. 
 
 DAY IN LONDON AND OTHER CAPITALS. 
 
 The following Table, computed for this work by Mr. Henry Belville, 
 of the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, shews the duration of the longest 
 and shortest days in the principal capitals throughout the world, cor- 
 rected for refraction, &c., and carried out to the nearest minute : 
 
 Name of Place. 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Length of the 
 Longest Day. 
 
 Length of the 
 Shortest Day. 
 
 Stockholm .... 
 Copenhagen .... 
 St. Petersburg . . . 
 Berlin 
 
 59 20' N. 
 55 41 N. 
 59 56 N. 
 52 31 N. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 18 30 
 17 20 
 18 44 
 16 38 
 
 H. M. 
 
 5 54 
 6 54 
 5 42 
 7 40 
 
 
 51 31 N 
 
 16 32 
 
 7 44 
 
 Edinburgh 
 Dublin 
 
 55 57 N. 
 53 22 N 
 
 17 32 
 16 56 
 
 6 50 
 7 is 
 
 Amsterdam .... 
 Vienna 
 
 52, 22 N. 
 48 13 N 
 
 16 44 
 15 58 
 
 7 33 
 8 17 
 
 Paris 
 Madrid 
 
 48 5.0 N. 
 40 25 N. 
 38 42 N 
 
 15 6 
 15 
 14 50 
 
 8 10 
 9 14 
 9 24 
 
 Cairo 
 
 30 3 N 
 
 14 
 
 10 10 
 
 Naples 
 
 40 50 N 
 
 15 3 
 
 9 14 
 
 Constantinople . . . 
 Buda . . 
 
 41 1 N. 
 47 29 N 
 
 15 4 
 15 54 
 
 9 12 
 8 16 
 
 Calcutta 
 
 22 36 N. 
 
 13 26 
 
 10 42 
 
 Pekin 
 Cape Town .... 
 
 39 55 N. 
 33 56 S. 
 42 25 N 
 
 14 58 
 14 22 
 15 16 
 
 9 16 
 9 48 
 8 58 
 
 "Washington .... 
 
 39 N. 
 8 58 N 
 
 14 52 
 12 36 
 
 9 22 
 11 34 
 
 St. Julian 
 
 Svdnev 
 
 49 10 S. 
 33 51 S 
 
 16 10 
 14 22 
 
 8 8 
 9 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 DEAF AND DUMB, ASYLUM. 
 
 The first Asylum or School established in England for the Deaf 
 and Dumb was opened in 1792, in Fort-place, Bermondsey, under the 
 auspices of the Rev. John Townsend, of Jamaica-row Chapel ; and of 
 the Rev. H. Cox Mason, then curate of Bermondsey. The teacher 
 was Joseph "Watson, LL.D., who held the situation upwards of thirty- 
 seven years, and taught upwards of 1000 pupils, who were thus able to 
 read articulately, and to write and cipher. This tuition was commenced 
 with six pupils only. In 1807 the first stone of a new building was 
 laid in the Old Kent-road, whither the establishment was removed Oc- 
 tober 5, 1809 ; when the Society celebrated the event by a public thanks- 
 giving at the church of St. Mary Magdalen, Bermondsey, the Rev. C. 
 Crowther preaching the sermon. A memorial bust of the Rev. Mr. 
 Townsend is placed in the committee-room. The pupils, male aud 
 
252 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 female, are such children only as are deaf and dumb, not being deficient 
 in intellect. Other children are admitted on payment of 201. annually 
 for board ; and private pupils are also received. The term of each 
 pupil's stay is five years : they are taught to read, write, draw, and 
 cipher ; to speak by signs, and in many instances to articulate so as 
 to be clearly understood. They are wholly clothed and maintained by 
 the charity, are instructed in working trades, and in some cases ap- 
 prentice-fees are given. About 300 children are maintained in the 
 Asylum, which is amply supported by the wealthy ; and besides its 
 annual receipts from subscriptions, donations, and legacies, &c., nearly 
 10,0001. a-year, it has a funded stock of nearly 150,OOOZ. The instructor 
 of the Asylum is Mr. T. J. Watson, a son of the late Dr. Watson ; he is 
 assisted by twelve male and two female teachers. The pupils are elected 
 half-yearly, without reference to locality, sect, or persuasion. The 
 Asylum may be inspected daily ; most convenient time from eleven till 
 one o'clock. The importance of this Asylum is attested by the fact 
 that in 1833, in 20 families of 159 children, 90 were deaf and dumb. 
 
 There is also at 26 Red-Lion-square, Bloomsbury, an Institution 
 for the Employment, Relief, and Religious Instruction of the Adult 
 Deaf and Dumb ; who are taught shoemaking, tailoring, dressmaking, 
 shoebinding, fancy-work, &c., the produce of their labour being added 
 to the funds of the Society. In the chapel the Scriptures are ex- 
 pounded, and church-services regularly held, at which the deaf and 
 dumb are ready and interested attendants. 
 
 DIORAMAS. 
 
 The Diorama, on the eastern side of Park-square, Regent's-park, 
 was exhibited in Paris long before it was brought to London, by its ori- 
 ginators, MM. Bouton and Daguerre ; the latter, the inventor of the 
 Daguerreotype, died 1851. The exhibition-house, with the theatre in 
 the rear, was designed by Morgan and Pugin : the spectatory has a 
 circular ceiling, with transparent medallion portraits j the whole was 
 built in four months, and cost 10,OOOZ. 
 
 The Diorama consists of two pictures, eighty feet in length and forty 
 feet in height, painted in solid and in transparency, arranged so as to 
 exhibit changes of light and shade, and a variety of natural phenomena; 
 the spectators being kept in comparative darkness, while the picture 
 receives a concentrated light from a ground-glass roof. The contriv- 
 ance is partly optical, partly mechanical ; and consists in placing the 
 pictures within the building so constructed, that the saloon containing 
 the spectators may revolve at intervals, and bring in succession the two 
 distinct scenes into the field of view, without the necessity of the 
 spectators removing from their seats ; while the scenery itself remains 
 stationary, and the light is distributed by transparent and movable 
 blinds some placed behind the picture, for intercepting and changing 
 the colour of the rays of light, which pass through the semi-transparent 
 parts. Similar blinds, above and in front of the picture, are movable 
 by cords, so as to distribute or direct the rays of light. 
 
 The revolving motion given to the saloon is an arc of about 73 ; and 
 while the spectators are thus passing round, no person is permitted to 
 go in or out. The revolution of the saloon is effected by means of a 
 sector, or portion of a wheel, with teeth which work in a series of 
 wheels and pinions ; one man, by turning a winch, moves the whole. 
 
 The space between the saloon and each of the two pictures is occu- 
 pied on either side by a partition, forming a kind of avenue, propor- 
 tioned in width to the size of the picture. Without such a precaution, 
 
DIORAMAS. 253 
 
 the eye of the spectator, being thirty or forty feet distant from the can- 
 vass, would, by any thing intervening, be estranged from the object. 
 
 The combination of transparent, semi-transparent, and opaque co- 
 louring, still further assisted by the power of varying both the effects 
 and the degree of light and shade, renders the Diorama the most perfect 
 scenic representation of nature ; and adapts it peculiarly for moonlight 
 subjects, or for shewing such accidents in landscape as sudden gleams of 
 sunshine or lightning. It is also unrivalled for representing architecture, 
 particularly interiors, as powerful relief may be obtained without that 
 exaggeration in the shadows which is almost inevitable in every other 
 mode of painting. The interior of Canterbury Cathedral, the first pic- 
 ture exhibited, in 1823, was a triumph of this class ; and the companion 
 picture, the Valley of Sarnen, equally admirable in atmospheric effects. 
 In one day (Easter-Monday, 1824), the receipts exceeded 200/. 
 
 In viewing the Diorama, the spectator is placed, as it were, at the 
 extremity of the scene, and thus has a view across, or through it. Hence 
 the inventor of the term compounded it of the Greek preposition dia, 
 through, and orama, scene ; though, from there being two paintings 
 under the same roof in the building in the Regent's-park, it has been 
 supposed the term is from dis, twice, and orama ; but if several paint- 
 ings of the same kind were exhibited, each would be a Diorama. ( Black.) 
 
 Although the Regent's-park Diorama has been artistically success- 
 ful, it has not been commercially so. In September 1848, the building 
 and ground in the rear, with the machinery and pictures, was sold for 
 6750^.; again, in June 1849, for 4800/. ; and the property, with sixteen 
 pictures, rolled on large cylinders, have since been sold for 3000J. 
 
 Dioramas have also been painted for our theatres by Stanfield and 
 Roberts, the Grieves, and other artists. In 1828, Stanfield painted for 
 Drury-lane Theatre a series of views on the Rhine ; in the same year, 
 a Diorama for the Christmas pantomime ; and another in 1836. 
 
 Other Dioramic exhibitions have been opened in the metropolis. In 
 1828, one was exhibited at the Queen's Bazaar, Oxford-street ; in 1829, 
 the picture was " The Destruction of York- Minster by Fire," during the 
 exhibition of which, May 28, the scenery took fire, and the premises 
 were entirely burnt. 
 
 In 1841, there was exhibited at the Bazaar, St. James 's-street, a Dio- 
 rama, of five large scenes, of the second funeral of Napoleon ; but, 
 though most effectively painted by members of " The Board of Arts for 
 the Ceremony," and accompanied by funereal music by Auber, the 
 spectacle excited little interest. 
 
 At Easter 1849 was opened the Gallery of Illustration, in the large 
 saloon of the late residence of Mr. Nash, the architect, No. 14 Regent- 
 street, a series of thirty-one dioramic pictures of the Overland Mail 
 Route from Southampton to Calcutta; the general scenery painted by 
 T. Grieve and W. Telbin, human figures by John Absolon, and ani- 
 mals by J. F. Herring and H. Weir : in picturesqueness, aerial effect, 
 characteristic grouping, variety of incident, richness oJ' colour, and 
 atmosphere skilfully varied with the several countries, this Diorama 
 has, perhaps, scarcely been equalled : it was exhibited between 1600 
 and 1700 times, and visited by upwards of 250,000 persons. The same 
 artists have produced other subjects, including a set of Illustrations of 
 the Duke of Wellington's Campaigns. 
 
 The Great Exhibition year, 1851, was very productive of Dioramas, 
 which we shall scarcely be expected to enumerate. The most success- 
 ful was the Diorama of Jerusalem and the Holy Land, painted from 
 sketches by Bartlett, and exhibited at the St. George's Gallery, Hyde- 
 Park-corner ; the entire cost of this Diorama was 2000/. 
 
254 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 DOCKS. 
 
 The Docks of London are entirely the growth of the present century, 
 and the result of the vast increase in the commerce of the preceding 
 25 years, which was as great as in the first 70 years of the century : a 
 hundred years since, London had not one-twentieth of its present trade. 
 Hitherto, merchandise was kept afloat in barges, from want of room to 
 discharge it at the legal quays, when the plunder was frightful 
 lightermen, watermen, labourers, the crews of ships, the mates and 
 officers, and the revenue officers, combining in this nefarious system, 
 which neither the police nor the terrors of Execution Dock could 
 repress. At length, in 1789, Mr. Perry, a shipbuilder, constructed at 
 Blackwall the Brunswick Dock, to contain 28 East Indiamen and 50 
 or 60 smaller ships ; and in ten years after, the construction of public 
 Docks was commenced. 
 
 From near the Tower to Blackwall, or nearly four miles, is now 
 occupied by five Docks, comprising 450 acres, and accommodation for 
 1200 ships and 530,000 tons of goods : the mass of shipping, the vast- 
 ness of the many-storied warehouses, and the heaps of merchandise 
 from every region of the globe, justify the glory of London as "the 
 great emporium of nations," and "the metropolis of the most intel- 
 ligent and wealthy empire the sun ever shone upon, and of which the 
 boast is, as of Spain of old, that upon its dominions the sun never sets.'* 
 
 These several Docks have been constructed at the expense of Joint- 
 stock Companies, and have been moderately profitable to their projectors, 
 but more advantageous to the Port of London. 
 
 COMMERCIAL DOCKS, Rotherhithe, on the south bank of the Thames, 
 are, upon the authority of Stow, said to include the commencement of 
 Canute's trench, cut early in the llth century from thence to Battersea ; 
 and into which the river was diverted when the first stone bridge 
 across the Thames was built, temp. King John. The present Com- 
 mercial Docks, however, originated in the " Howland Great Wet Dock," 
 which existed in 1660, and extended about 10 acres in Queen Anne's time, 
 larger than the famous basin of Dunkirk. It was then engaged for 
 the Greenland whale-fishery vessels, next for the Baltic trade in tim- 
 ber, deals, tar, corn, &c. ; and in 1809 was opened as the Commercial 
 Docks. They are now five in number, and comprise about 60 acres 
 of water and 40 acres of land; and the granaries will hold 100,000 
 quarters of grain. Adjoining, southward, is the EAST COUNTRY 
 DOCK, 5 acres ; and northward is the SURREY DOCK, an entrance 
 basin to the Surrey Canal, which can accommodate 300 vessels. 
 
 EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, lie below the West India Docks, 
 and immediately adjoin the Blackwall Railway and Brunswick Wharf. 
 These Docks, originally constructed for the East India Company, were 
 completed in 1808. Since the opening of the trade to India, they have 
 been the property of the East and West India Company. Their water 
 area is 30 acres, and their great depth (23 feet) accommodates vessels 
 of very large size ; they have a cast-iron wharf, 750 feet in length, in 
 which are more than 900 tons of metal. Here, from 1848 to 1850, lay 
 the Chinese Junk Keying, the first which ever reached Europe, or 
 even rounded the Cape of Good Hope : she is stated to have cost her 
 proprietors upwards of 70002. 
 
 ST. KATHERINE'S DOCKS, just below the Tower, were planned by 
 Telford, and constructed by Hardwick: in clearing the ground, the 
 fine old church and other remains of the Hospital of St. Katherine 
 
DOCKS. 255 
 
 (founded 1148 by Matilda of Boulogne, wife of King Stephen), with 
 1250 houses and tenements, inhabited by 11,300 persons, were pur- 
 chased and pulled down : the Hospital and Church were rebuilt in the 
 Regent's-park. (See CHUBCHES, p. 134.) The Docks were commenced 
 May 3, 1827, and upwards of 2500 men worked at them till their open- 
 ing, Oct. 25, 1828 ; a labour of unexampled rapidity. The excavated 
 earth was carried by water to Millbank, and there used to fill up the 
 reservoirs of the Chelsea Water-works, upon which has been built a 
 new town south of Pimlico. The cost of St. Katherine's Docks was 
 1,700,000^. The lofty walls constitute it a place of " special security," 
 and surround 23 acres, of which 11 are water, and will accommodate 
 120 ships, besides barges and other craft. The lock from the Thames 
 is crossed by a vast iron swing-bridge 23 feet wide : it can be filled or 
 emptied by a steam-engine of 200-horse power, and 14 feet depth can 
 be made by the gate-paddles in six minutes. This lock is sunk so deep 
 that ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide ; and 
 the depth of water at spring-tides is 28 feet, or 4 feet more than in any 
 other dock of London : the machinery of the gates, by Bramah, is very 
 fine. At these Docks was first provided accommodation for landing 
 and embarking passengers without using small wherries ; and in 1844 
 there was added an extensive foreign baggage- warehouse and wharf, 
 for the landing and examination, or despatching, of a vast number 
 of passengers in a very short time. 
 
 The frontage of the quays, paved with cast-iron, is 4600 feet ; and 
 the warehouses, vaults, sheds, and covered ways will contain 110,000 
 tons of goods. The warehouses, five and six stories high, are supported 
 on cast-iron columns, 3 feet 9 inches diameter; they have massive 
 granite stairs, huge machinery over the wells or shafts, and power- 
 ful cranes on the quays, so that goods can be taken at once into the 
 warehouses from the ships, and in one-fifth of the time required in the 
 earlier- constructed docks. A ship of 250 tons burden can be discharged 
 at St. Katherine's in twelve hours, and one of 500 tons in two or three 
 days. One of the cranes cost about 2000/., is worked by ten or twelve 
 men, and will raise from 30 to 40 tons. The vaults below for wine and 
 j spirits have crypt-like arches : " lights are distributed to the travellers 
 | who prepare to visit these cellars, as if they were setting out to visit 
 the catacombs of Naples or of Rome." (Baron Dupin.) From the 
 vaultings hang vinous fungi, like dark woolly clouds, light as gossamer, 
 1 and a yard or more in length, a piece of which applied to the flame 
 I of a candle will burn like tinder; in the spirit-vaults the Davy safety - 
 ! lamp is used. Cats are kept to destroy the rats in the warehouses, 
 j at an annual cost of more than 100Z. 
 
 LONDON DOCKS lie immediately below St. Katherine's Docks, and 
 were opened in 1805; John Rennie, engineer. They comprise 90 acres: 
 I 35 acres of water, and 12,980 feet of quay and jetty frontage; with 
 j three entrances from the Thames Hermitage, Wapping, and Shadwell, 
 where the depth of water at spring-tides is 27 feet. The "Western 
 Dock comprises 20 acres, the Eastern 7 acres, and the Wapping Basin 
 3 acres, besides a small dock exclusively for ships laden with tobacco. 
 The two large Docks afford water-room for 302 sail of vessels, ex- 
 clusive of lighters ; warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods ; and 
 vault-room for 80,000 pipes of wine and spirits. The superficial area of 
 the vault-room is 890,545 feet ; of the warehouse-room, 1,402,115 feet. 
 The enclosing walls cost 65,OOOZ. The capital of the Company is four 
 millions of money. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond which 
 period a farthing per ton is charged for the first two weeks, and then 
 a halfpenny per week per ton. 
 
256 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In these Docks are especially warehoused wine, wool, spices, tea, 
 ivory, drugs, tobacco, sugars, dye-stuffs, imported metals, and other 
 articles. These, except the wine, tea, spices, and ivory, may be inspected 
 by an order from the Secretary; for the wine a " tasting order" must 
 be obtained from the owners. The shipping and people at work may 
 be seen without any order. 
 
 Of the Wine-vaults, one alone, formerly 7 acres, now extends under 
 Gravel-lane, and contains upwards of 12 acres: above is the mixing- 
 house, the largest vat containing 23,250 gallons. The Wool-floors were 
 considerably enlarged and glass-roofed in 1850 : the annual importation 
 is 130,000 bales; value 2,600,OOOZ. A vast Tea- warehouse was com- 
 pleted in 1845 ; cost 100,OOOZ. ; stowage for 120,000 chests of tea. To 
 inspect the Ivory- warehouse requires a special order : here lie heaps 
 of elephant and rhinoceros tusks, the ivory weapons of sword-fish, &c. 
 
 The great Tobacco-warehouse, "the Queen's," being rented by 
 Government for 14,OOOZ. per annum, is 5 acres in extent, and is covered 
 by a skilfully iron-framed roof, supported by slender columns : it will 
 contain 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco, value 4,800,000/. ; the huge casks 
 are piled two in height, intersected by passages and alleys, each several 
 hundred feet long. There is another warehouse for finer tobacco ; and a 
 cigar-floor, in which are frequently 1500 chests of cigars, value 150,000?, 
 
 Near the north-east corner of the Queen's Warehouse, a guide-post 
 inscribed " To the Kiln," directs you to the Queen's Pipe, or chimney oi 
 the furnace ; on the door of the latter and of the room are painted the 
 crown-royal and V.R. In this kiln are burnt all such goods as do not 
 fetch the amount of their duty and Customs' charges: tea, having once sel 
 the chimney of the kiln on fire, is rarely burnt ; and the wine and spirits 
 are emptied into the Docks. The huge mass of fire in the furnace is 
 fed night and day with condemned goods : on one occasion, 900 Aus- 
 tralian mutton-hams were burnt ; on another, 45,000 pairs of Frenct 
 gloves ; and silks and satins, tobacco and cigars, are here consumed it 
 vast quantities : the ashes being sold by the ton as manure, for kill- 
 ing insects, and to soap-boilers and chemical manufacturers. Nails anc 
 other pieces of iron, sifted from the ashes, are prized for their toughnesf 
 in making gun-barrels; gold and silver, the remains of plate, watches 
 and jewellery thrown into the furnace, are also found in the ashes. 
 
 Lastly, the London Docks are worked by from 1000 to 3000 hands 
 as the business is brisk or slack : and this is one of the few places h 
 the metropolis where men can get employment without either charactei 
 or recommendation. At the Dock-gates, at past 7 in the morning 
 " may be seen congregated swarms of men, of all grades, looks, am 
 kinds. There are decayed and bankrupt master-butchers, master-bakers 
 publicans, grocers, old soldiers, old sailors, Polish refugees, broken- 
 down gentlemen, discharged lawyer's-clerks, suspended government- 
 clerks, almsmen, pensioners, servants, thieves indeed, every one wh< 
 wants a loaf and is willing to work for it." (Henry Mayhew. ) 
 
 WEST INDIA. DOCKS, the most extensive in the world, (Jessop 
 engineer,) lie between Limehouse and Blackwall, and their long linei 
 of warehouses, and lofty wall, 5 feet thick, are well seen from th< 
 railway. These Docks were commenced 1800, when William Pitt lai< 
 the first stone ; and they were opened 1802. Their extent is nearl; 
 thrice that of the London Docks, their entire area (including the cana 
 made to avoid the bend of the river at the Isle of Dogs) being 295 acres 
 this canal is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, with lock-gates, 4* 
 feet wide, and is used as a dock for timber-ships. The northern o: 
 Import Dock will hold 250 vessels of 300 tons each : when originall; 
 
DOCTORS' COMMONS. 257 
 
 opened, it took ten hours to fill, 24 feet deep, though the water was 
 admitted at 800 gallons per second. The southern or Export Dock 
 will hold 195 vessels. Here the ship is seen to the greatest advantage, 
 fresh-painted, standing-rigging up, colours flying, &c.; whereas in the 
 Import Dock, the vessels, though more picturesque, have their rigging 
 down and loose, the sides whitened by the sea, and contrasting with 
 outward-bound vessels. The warehouses will contain 180,000 tons of 
 merchandise ; and there have been at one time, on the quays and in the 
 sheds, vaults, and warehouses, colonial produce worth 20,000,000?. ster- 
 ling; comprising 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels and 433,648 bags 
 of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,000 logs of mahogany, 
 and 21,000 tons of logwood, &c. In the wood-sheds are enormous 
 quantities of mahogany, ebony, rosewood, &c., logs of which 4 or 5 tons 
 weight are lifted with locomotive cranes, by four or five men. For 
 twenty years from their construction, these Docks were compulsorily 
 frequented by all West India ships trading to the Port of London, when 
 the maximum revenues amounted to 449,421/., in 1813 ; since the expiry 
 of this privilege, and the depreciation of the West India trade, the 
 revenues have much declined. The Docks are now used by every kind 
 of shipping, and belong to the East and West India Dock Company. 
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS, 
 
 A College of Doctors of Civil Law, and for the study and practice of 
 the Civil Law, is situated in Great Knight-Rider-street, south of St. 
 Paul's-churchyard ; in the south-west corner of which is an arched 
 gateway, and within it the Lodge of Porters to direct strangers to "the 
 Commons." The civilians and canonists were originally lodged in a 
 house, subsequently the Queen's Head tavern, in Paternoster-row; 
 whence they removed to a house purchased for them in Elizabeth's reign 
 by D. Harvey, Dean of the Arches; here they " were living (for diet and 
 lodging) in a collegiate manner, and commoning together, whence the 
 college was named Doctors' Commons ; and the doctors still dine to- 
 j gether on every court-day. This house was destroyed by the Great Fire 
 of 1G66 ; when the College removed to Exeter House, Strand, till the 
 rebuilding of the edifice in Great Knight-Rider-street, in 1672, as we 
 I now see it, with a side entrance on Bennet's-hill, nearly opposite He- 
 ralds' College. It is of brick, and consists of two quadrangles, chiefly 
 occupied by the Doctors ; a hall for the hearing of causes, &c. 
 
 In Doctors' Commons are the Court of Arches, named from having 
 (been formerly kept in Bow Church, Cheapside, originally built upon 
 larches (see CHURCHES, p. 142), and the supreme ecclesiastical court 
 I of the whole province; the Prerogative Court, where all contentions 
 larising out of testamentary causes are tried; the Consistory Court 
 I of the Bishop of London ; and the High Court of Admiralty : all these 
 (courts hold their sittings in the College Hall, the walls of which above 
 'the wainscot are covered with the richly-emblazoned coats of arms of 
 all the doctors for a century or two past. 
 
 The Court of Arches has jurisdiction over thirteen parishes or pe- 
 iculiars, which form a deanery exempt from the Bishop of London, and 
 ! attached to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; hence the judge is named 
 iDean of the Arches. The business includes, as in Chaucer's time, cases 
 
 " Of defamation and avouterie, 
 Of church reves and of testaments, 
 Of contracts and lack of sacraments, 
 Of usury and simony also ;" 
 
 besides those of sacrilege, blasphemy, apostacy from Christianity, adul- 
 
258 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tery, partial or entire divorce, &c. ; likewise brawling and smiting in 
 churches or vestries : but the majority of the cases are matrimonial. 
 
 In the Prerogative Court wills are proved and all administrations 
 granted, that are the prerogative of the Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 There are several Registries in Doctors' Commons, under the juris- 
 diction of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the bishops. Some of th( 
 very old documents connected with them are deposited for security ir 
 St. Paul's Cathedral and Lambeth Palace. At the Bishop of London's 
 Registry, and the Registry for the Commission of Surrey, Wills an 
 proved for the respective dioceses, and Marriage Licenses granted. Al 
 theVicar-GeneraVs Office and the Faculty Office, Marriage Licenses ar< 
 granted for any part of England. The Faculty Office also grant Facul- 
 ties to notaries public, and dispensations to the clergy ; and formerly 
 granted privilege to eat flesh upon prohibited days. At the Vicar- 
 General's Office, records are kept of the confirmation and consecration 
 of bishops. 
 
 Marriage Licenses, special and general, if to be solemnised according to the law; 
 of the Established Church, are procured upon personal application to a proctor b] 
 one of the parties: a residence of fifteen days is necessary by either party in th< 
 parish or district where the marriage is to be performed. The expense of an or- 
 dinary license is 21. 12*. 6d. ; but if either is a minor, 10*. 6rf. further charge; anc 
 the party appearing swears he has obtained the consent of the proper persoi 
 having authority in law to give it: there is no necessity for either parents o 
 minor to attend. A Special License for Marriage is issued after a fiat or consen 
 has been obtained from the archbishop ; and is granted only to persons of rank 
 judges, and members of parliament, the archbishop having aright to exercise hi, 
 own discretion. The expense of a Special License is usually twenty-eight guineas 
 This gives privilege to marry at any time or place, in private residence, or at ani 
 church or chapel situate in England ; but the ceremony must be performed by i 
 priest in holy orders, and of the Established Church. With the marriages of Dis 
 Renters, including Homan Catholics, Jews, and Quakers, the Commons has no 
 thing to do, their licenses being obtainable of the Superintendent-Registrar. j. 
 Divorce when sought is carried through one of the courts in this profession (ac 
 cording to the diocese), and is conducted by a proctor ; the evidence of witnesse 
 is taken privately before an examiner of the court, and neither the husband, wife 
 nor any of the witnesses need appear personally in court. A suit is seldom con 
 ducted at an expense less than 200/. 
 
 The High Court of Admiralty consists of the Instance Court an< 
 the Prize Court. The Instance Court has a criminal and civil juris 
 diction : to the former belong piracy and other indictable offences 01 
 the high seas, which are now tried at the Old Bailey ; to the latter 
 suits arising from ships running foul of each other, disputes about sea 
 men's wages, bottomry, and salvage. The Prize Court applies to nava 
 captures in war, proceeds of captured slave-vessels, &c. A silver oa 
 is carried before the judge as the emblem of his office. The business i 
 verv onerous, as in embargoes and the provisional detention of vessels 
 when incautious decision might involve the country in war ; the righ 
 of search is another weighty question. Lord Stowell, the judge, ii 
 one year (1806) pronounced 2206 decrees. 
 
 The Admiralty Registry is in Paul's Bakehouse-court, Doctors 
 Commons, where are kept records of prizes adjudicated. 
 
 The practitioners in this court are advocates (DD.C.L.) or coun 
 sel, and proctors or solicitors. The judge and advocates wear in courl 
 if of Oxford, scarlet robes and hoods lined with taffety ; and if of Cam 
 bridge, white minever and round black velvet caps. The proctors wea 
 black robes and hoods lined with fur. 
 
 The College has a good library in civil law and history, bequeathe 
 by an ancestor of Sir John Gibson, judge of the Prerogative Court 
 ,and every bishop at his consecration makes a present of books. 
 
 The PKEROGATIVE WILL OFFICE is, however, the most interest 
 
DOMESDAY-BOOK. 259 
 
 ing feature of Doctors' Commons. Wills are always to be found here 
 at half an hour's notice, and generally in a few minutes. They are 
 kept in a fire-proof "strong-room." The original wills begin with the 
 date 1483, and the copies from 1383. The latter are on parchment, 
 strongly bound, with brass clasps, and fill the public-room and an apart- 
 ment above-stairs. In one year the searches have amounted to nearly 
 30,000 ; country commissions, 4580 ; and extracts from wills, 6414. 
 Some entries of early wills, engrossed by the monks, are beautifully 
 illuminated, the colours remaining fresh to this day. 
 
 To obtain Perusal of a Will. On entering the office apply at the first small 
 box or recess on the right hand, where a clerk, on receiving a shilling, and the 
 surname of the maker of the will required, directs the applicant to the In- 
 dexes, which are arranged chronologically and alphabetically on the left-hand 
 side of the room. A search must then be made through these volumes for the 
 entry of the will; which being found, a clerk at the further end of the room, on 
 being furnished with the exact title and date of the will, ushers the inquirer into 
 another apartment, lit by a skylight, and furni-hed with a table and benches. 
 Here two clerks are seated; and the actual will being brought to the inquirer, he 
 may inspect it at his leisure. He must not, however, copy any thing from it, or 
 make even a pencil memorandum ; and if he attempt to do so, he will be 
 checked by the clerks. 
 
 To obtain the Copy of a Will. Apply to the clerks in the room, and they will 
 state the expense per folio. The order for a copy must he left at the box at the 
 entrance of the office, where the time will be named for the delivery of the copy 
 within a few days, on payment of the cost. To insure correctness, the copy is 
 read out to the applicant in the office, and compared with the original will ; and 
 the copy is moreover duly attested by certain authorities of Doctors' Commons. 
 
 If the applicant merely desires to see the copy of a Will, the clerk in the outer 
 room, on being shewn the entry in the Index, will refer him by a written note to 
 an attendant, who will at once bring the copy to him; the same rules against 
 copying and making extracts prevail here also. 
 
 The Prerogative Office is open (except on holidays) from October till March 
 from 9 till 3, and the remaining six months till 4. 
 
 The Wills of celebrated persons are the Curiosities of the place. 
 Here is the will of Shakspeare, on three folios of paper, each with his 
 signature, and with this interlineation in his own handwriting: "I 
 give unto my wife my brown best bed, with the furniture." Next is 
 the will of Milton, a nuncupative one, the great poet being blind ; but 
 which was set aside by a decree of Sir Leoline Jenkins, the judge of 
 the Prerogative Court. Here, too, is the will of Napoleon Bonaparte, 
 made at St. Helena, April 1821. 
 
260 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Although in early times Domesday, precious as it was alwaj 
 deemed, occasionally travelled, like other records, to distant parti 
 till 1696 it was usually kept with the King's Seal at Westminster, b 
 the side of the Tally Court, in the Exchequer, under three locks an 
 keys ; in the charge of the auditor, the chamberlains, and deputy-chan: 
 berlains, of the Exchequer. In 1696 it was deposited among othe 
 valuable records in the Chapter House, where it still remains. It : 
 kept "in the vaulted porch never warmed by fire. From the firs 
 deposit of Domesday volume in the Treasury at Winchester, in th 
 reign of the Conqueror, it certainly never felt or saw a fire, yet ever 
 page of the vellum is bright, sound, and perfect." (Sir F. Palgrave 
 In making searches or transcripts, you are not allowed to touch th 
 text, a rule which has been kept from time immemorial, and to whic 
 the excellent condition of the record may be partly ascribed. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact, that Domesday-Booli, which is usually s 
 minute in regard to our principal towns and cities, is deficient in respe< 
 to London. It only mentions a vineyard in Holborn, belonging to tt 
 Crown ; and ten acres of land near Bishopsgate. belonging to the Dea 
 and Chapter of St. Paul's : yet certainly, observes Sir Henry Ellis, i 
 his Introduction to Domesday, no mutilation of the manuscript h* 
 taken place ; since the account of Middlesex is entire, and is exact! 
 coincident with the abridged copy of the survey taken at the time, an 
 now lodged in the office of the King's Remembrancer in the Excheque: 
 Still, a distinct and independent survey of the City itself might ha\ 
 been made at the time of the general survey, although now lost or d( 
 stroyed, if not remaining among the unexplored archives of the Crow) 
 
 The parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields possesses a Book of Recon 
 called Domesuay-Book, which is of vellum, and was made in 1624, b 
 direction of the then Bishop of London, as a perpetual parish record 
 entitled " Treasure deposited in Heaven, or the Book of God's House 
 of things worthy to be remembered in this parish of St. Giles-in-the 
 Fields, and in the first place of the church now lately restored, son: 
 account touching the same." This book was advertised as missing i 
 the Examiner newspaper, Dec. 21, 1828, and was soon afterwards foun< 
 
 " DREADNOUGHT" HOSPITAL-SHIP (THE) 
 
 Is the establishment of the Seamen's Hospital Society, and is moorc 
 off Greenwich, for the reception of sick and diseased seamen of a 
 nations in the Port of London. The hospital was originally establishe 
 in 1821 on board the Grampus, a 50-gun ship ; but this vessel not bein 
 large enough, the Government exchanged her for the DreadnougJi 
 104-gun ship, which was fitted up in 1831. She fought at Trafalgai 
 under Captain Conn, and captured the Spanish three-decker the So. 
 Juan, previously engaged by the Bellerophon and the Defiance. 
 
 The establishment on board the Dreadnought consists of a superir 
 tendent, surgeons, apothecary, visiting physicians, chaplain, &c. Th 
 ship is moored contiguous to the bulk of the shipping in the docks an 
 in the river, and is the only place for the reception of sick seamen ai 
 riving from abroad, or to whom accidents may happen between tL 
 mouth of the river and London-bridge. Sick s"eamen of every nation 
 on presenting themselves alongside, are immediately received, withov 
 the necessity of any recommendatory letters ; and shipwrecked sailoi 
 and vagrant seamen are admitted, if deserving. Patients receive 
 in 1851, 2242; out-patients, 1642. The Emperor of Russia, the Quee 
 of Spain, and other foreign potentates, are subscribers. The Dreao 
 nought may be inspected daily, except Sundays, between 11 and 3, witl. 
 out any ticket. The patients"are ranged upon the lower decks, the porl 
 holes affording ventilation ; and the cabins are converted into surgerie 
 
DRURY-LANE. 261 
 
 Patients of different nations between 1821 and 1852: Englishmen, 38,482; 
 Scotchmen, 7980; Irishmen, 5876; Frenchmen, 240; Germans, 872; Russians, 
 838; Prussians, 1291; Dutchmen, 215; Danes, 870; Swedes and Norwegians, 2146; 
 Italians, GOfi; Portuguese, 497; Spaniards, 296; East Indians, 1093; West Indians, 
 1122; British Americans, 895 ; United States, 1237; South Americans, 133; Afri- 
 cans, 383; Turks, 16; Greeks, 58: New Zealanders, 31; Australians, 34; South- 
 Sea Islanders, 34; Chinese, 38 ; born at sea, 134. Total, 65,587. Usually 200 in- 
 patients at one time. Sooner than enter a land hospital, many a poor sailor will 
 perish afloat ; and seamen often travel from the most distant parts of the kingdom 
 to be received in the Dreadnought. 
 
 DRURY-LANE, 
 
 Which extends from the north side of the Strand to Broad-street, 
 Bloomsbury, was originally the "Via de Aldwych," still preserved 
 in Wych-street. At the west end was the mansion of the Drurys, 
 wherein Dr. Donne had apartments assigned him by Sir Robert Drury; 
 and here, in 1612, Mrs. Donne died of childbirth, at the same day and 
 hour that Dr. Donne, then at Paris, saw her in a vision pass twice be- 
 fore him, " with her hair hanging about her shoulders, and a dead child 
 in her arms." William Lord Craven, the hero of Creutznach, became 
 the next owner of Drury House, which he rebuilt in four stories, a 
 large square pile of brick, afterwards called Craven House, where the 
 Earl died in 1697. This mansion was taken down in 1803, and the 
 ground purchased by Philip Astley for the site of his Olympic Pavilion. 
 In its latter time, the Craven mansion was a public-house with the sign 
 of " The Queen of Bohemia," a reminiscence of its former occupancy by 
 the daughter of James I., through whom the family of Brunswick suc- 
 ceeded to the throne of England, and who is suspected to have been 
 secretly married to her heroic champion, Lord Craven. The present 
 Craven-Head public-house was one of the offices of Craven House, and 
 the adjoining stabling belonged to that mansion. Craven Buildings, 
 erected in 1723, occupy a portion of the grounds. 
 
 On the end wall of Craven-buildings was formerly a fresco portrait of Earl 
 Craven in armour, with a truncheon in his hand, and mounted on his white 
 charger; on each side was an earl's and a baron's coronet, and the letters ' W. C.' 
 This portrait was twice or thrice repainted in oil, the last time by Edward 
 Edwards, A.R.A. (Brayley's Londiniana, vol. iv. p. 301.) Hayman, the painter, 
 once lived in Craven-buildings; Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, had here a house, 
 afterwards tenanted by the equally celebrated Mrs. Pritchard ; and in the back 
 parlour of No. 17 Dr. Arne composed the music of Comus. 
 
 The Cock and Magpie public-house (opposite Craven-buildings) 
 evidently dates from the better days of Drury-lane. Next-door is one of 
 the few paneled houses existing ; and the east side of Little Drury-lane, 
 leading to the church of St. Mary-le-Strand, is a range of old houses, 
 apparently contemporary with the Cock and Magpie, or probably two 
 centuries and a half old. Wych-street, which runs at an obtuse angle 
 with this passage, likewise contains some houses of considerable an- 
 tiquity. (Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part v.) 
 
 In the Coal-yard, at the Holborn end of Drury-lane, was born Nell 
 Gwynne ; and in Maypole-alley (now Little Drury-lane), she lodged 
 when Pepys saw her looking at the dance around the Strand maypole : 
 
 " 1st May, 1667. To Westminster, in the way meeting many milkmaids with 
 their garlands upon their pails, dancing with a fiddler before them; and saw 
 pretty Nelly standing at her lodging-door, in Drury-lane, in her smock-sleeves 
 and bodice, looking upon one : she seemed a mighty pretty creature." Diary. 
 
 Drury-lane was nobly tenanted till late in the 17th century; but a 
 paper by Steele in the Taller, No. 46, represents the lane in its de- 
 cline; and Gay's propitiatory lines, 
 
 " Oh, may thy virtue guard thee through the roads 
 Of Drury's mazy courts and dark abodes !" 
 
262 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 are almost as applicable now as at the day they were written : Hogarth 
 has made it the locality of the " Harlot's Progress." Pit-place (above 
 Princes-street) was the site of the Cock-pit, the first Drury-lane theatre. 
 
 EARTHQUAKES IN LONDON. 
 
 From Mr. Milne's elaborate register of Earthquakes in Great 
 Britain,* the most complete record of its class, we select the majority 
 of the following details of shocks felt in the metropolis: 
 
 1692, September 8, London and Flanders. 
 
 1750, February 8, London and Westminster. Motion of ground 
 from AV. to E. Several chimneys thrown down, and walls rent. A 
 shepherd at Kensington heard the noise rush past him, and instantly 
 he saw the ground, a dry and solid spot, wave under him like the face 
 of the river ; the tall trees of the avenue where he was, nodded their 
 tops very sensibly, and quivered. Philos. Trans, vol. xlvi. 
 
 1750, February 8, between 12 and 1 P.M., all over Westminster. 
 " Stacks of heavy chimneys were dislodged, and the Thames became 
 greatly agitated. The barristers were greatly alarmed, for they 
 thought that Westminster Hall was falling down"" Walcott. 
 
 1750, March 8. Motion from E. to W. ; houses near the Thames 
 were most shaken. Near London there was a continued and confused 
 lightning till within a minute or two of shock ; dogs howled, tish jumped 
 three feet out of water ; sound in air preceded concussions ; flashes of 
 lightning and a ball of fire were seen just before explosion. The Pre- 
 sident of the Royal Society (Martin Folkes) stated that he did not on 
 this occasion perceive that lifting motion which he was sensible of on 
 8th February, but he felt very quick shakes or tremors horizontally. 
 A boatman on the Thames felt his boat receive a blow at the bottom, 
 and the whole river seemed agitated. The Rev. Mr. Pickering stated, 
 that he was lying awake in his bed, which stood N. and S. He first 
 " heard a sound like that of a blast of wind. I then perceived myself 
 raised in my bed, and the motion began on my right side, and inclined 
 me towards the left." In the Temple Gardens, the noise in the air was 
 greater than the loudest report of cannon. At the same instant, the 
 buildings inclined over from the perpendicular several degrees. The 
 general impression was, that the whole city was violently pushed to 
 S.E., and then brought back again. The sound preceded the concus- 
 sions, resembling the discharge of several cannon, or distant thunder in 
 the air, and not a subterranean explosion. Flashes of lightning were 
 observed an hour (before ?), and a vast ball of fire. At Kensington, the 
 bailiff of Mr. Fox, at a quarter past five A.M., heard (when in the open 
 air) a noise much like thunder at a distance, which, coming from 
 N.W., grew louder, and gave a crack over his head, and then gradually 
 died away. The sky was clear, and he saw no fire or appearances of 
 lightning. Immediately after the crack, the ground shook, and it moved 
 like a quagmire. The whole lasted a minute. Philos. Trans, vol. xlvi. 
 " At half-past five A.M. the whole city of Westminster was alarmed by another 
 shock more severe than the former (Feb. 8), accompanied by a hollow rumbling 
 noise; and numbers of people were awakened in amazement and fear from their 
 sleep. Great stones were thrown from the 'new spire' of Westminster Abbey, 
 and fish jumped half a yard above the water; and in several steeples the bells 
 were struck by chime-hammers. An impostor pretended to foretel an earth- 
 quake on a particular day, which would lay Westminster in ruins ; and when the 
 appointed time arrived, the people ran out in crowds into the country to escape 
 such a terrible catastrophe. The churches could scarcely contain the throngs of 
 
 * Notices of Earthquake-Shocks felt in Great Britain. By David Milne, Esq. 
 F.R.S.E., M.W.S., F.G.S., &c. Communicated to Jameson's'Journal, No. 61. 
 
EAST INDIA HOUSE. 263 
 
 worshippers. The pulpits and public prints were employed in deprecating God's 
 wrath and calling a degenerate people to repentance. But unhappily it was a 
 devotion as shortlived only as their fear." Walcott's Westminster, p. 22. 
 
 Horace Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann, March 11, 1750, " In the night, 
 between Wednesday and Thursday last (exactly a month since the first shock), 
 the earth had a shivering fit between one and two ; but so slight, that if no more 
 had followed, I don't believe it would have been noticed. I had been awake, and 
 had scarce dozed again, when on a sudden I felt my bolster lift up my head; I 
 thought somebody was getting from under my bed, but soon found it was a strong 
 earthquake, that lasted near half a minute, with a violent vibration and great 
 roaring. I rang my bell, my servant came in frightened out of his senses ; in an 
 instant we heard all the windows in the neighbourhood flung up. I got up and 
 found people running into the streets, but saw no mischief done ; there has been 
 some, two old houses flung down, several chimneys, and much china-ware. The 
 bells rung in several houses. Admiral Knowles, who had lived long in Jamaica, 
 and felt seven there, says this was more violent than any of them. Francesco 
 prefers it to the dreadful one at Leghorn. * * * It has nowhere reached above 
 ten miles from London. The only visible effect it has had was on the Ridotto, 
 at which being the following night, there were but 400 people. A parson who 
 came into White's the morning of earthquake the first, and heard bets laid on 
 whether it was an earthquake or the blowing up of powder-mills, went away 
 exceedingly scandalised, and said, 'I protest they are such an impious set of 
 people, that I believe if the last trumpet was to sound, they would bet puppet- 
 show against Judgment.' " 
 
 1756, February 18. About 8 A.M., a shock felt at Dover and London. 
 
 1761, February 8. A shock most sensibly felt along the bahks of 
 the Thames from Greenwich near to Richmond. At Limehouse and 
 Poplar, chimneys were thrown down ; and in several parts of London, 
 the furniture was shaken, and the pewter fell to the ground : at Hamp- 
 stead and Highgate, it was also very perceptible. 
 
 1761, March 8. A more violent shock, between five and six A.M., the 
 air being very warm, and the atmosphere clear and serene ; though, till 
 within a few minutes preceding, there had been strong but confused 
 lightning in quick succession. The violence of the motion caused many 
 persons to start from their beds and flee to the street, under the im- 
 pression that their houses were falling. In St. James's Park, and in the 
 squares and open places about the West-end of the town, the tremulous 
 vibration of the earth was most distinguishable ; it seemed to move in a 
 south and north direction, with a quick return towards the centre, and 
 was accompanied with a loud noise as of rushing wind. 
 
 A crazy life-guardsman predicted a third earthquake within a month 
 from the above, and drove thousands of persons from the metropolis ; 
 whilst another wight advertised pills "good against earthquakes." 
 
 In 1842, an absurd report gained credence among the weak-minded, 
 that London would be destroyed by earthquake on the 17th of March, 
 St. Patrick's Day. This rumour was founded on certain doggrel 
 prophecies : one pretended to be pronounced in the year 1203, and 
 contained in Harleian Collection (British Museum), 800 b. folio 319 ; the 
 other by Dr. Dee, the astrologer (1598, Ms. in the British Museum). 
 The rhymes, with these "authorities," inserted in the newspapers, ac- 
 tually excited some alarm, and a great number of timid persons left the 
 metropolis before the 17th. Upon reference to the British Museum, 
 the " prophecies" were not, however, to be found; and their forger has 
 confessed them to have been an experiment upon public credulity. 
 
 EAST INDIA HOUSE, 
 
 Or the House of the East India Company, " the most celebrated 
 commercial association of ancient or modern times, and which has ex- 
 tended its sway over the whole of the Mogul empire," is situated on 
 the south side of Leadenhall- street. 
 
26-4 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The tradition of the House is, that the Company, incorporated 
 December 31, 1600, first transacted their business in the great room of 
 the Nag's Head inn, opposite St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street. 
 The maps of London, soon after the Great Fire of 1666, place the 
 India House on a part of its present site in Leadenhall-street. Here 
 originally stood the mansion of Alderman Kerton, built in the reign of 
 Edward VI., rebuilt on the accession of Elizabeth, enlarged by its 
 next purchaser, Sir William Craven, lord may or in 1610: here was born 
 the great Lord Craven, who in 1701 leased his house and a tenement in 
 Lime-street to the Company, at 100?. a-year. A scarce Dutch etching 
 in the British Museum shews this house to have been half-timbered, it8 
 lofty gable surmounted with two dolphins and a figure of a mariner, 
 or, as some say, of the first Governor ; beneath are merchant-ships at 
 sea, the royal arms, and those of the Company. This grotesque struc- 
 ture was taken down in 1726, and upon its site was erected " the old 
 East India House," portions of which yet remain ; although the present 
 stone front, 200 feet long, and great part of the house, were built 1798 
 
 and 1799, and subsequently enlarged by Cockerell, R.A., and Wilkins, 
 a hexastyle Ionic portico of six fluted columns, from the 
 
 R.A. It has a hexast 
 
 ancient temple of Apollo Didyma3us ; and in the tympanum of the pedi- 
 ment are sculptured, by Bacon, jun., figures emblematic of the com- 
 merce of the East, shielded by George 111. : on the upper acroterium 
 is a statue of Britannia ; and on the two lower, a figure of Europe on a 
 horse, and Asia on a camel. 
 
 The interior contains many fine statues and pictures. The new Sale- 
 room approaches in interest the Rotunda of the Bank of England. The 
 Court-room (Directors') is an exact cube of 30 feet ; is richly gilt, and 
 is hung with six pictures of the Cape, St. Helena, and Tellichery ; and 
 over the chimney is a large marble group of figures, supported by cary- 
 atides. The general Court-room (Proprietors') has in niches statues of 
 Lord Clive, Warren Hastings, the Marquis Cornwallis, Sir Eyre Coote, 
 General Lawrance, Sir George Pococke, and the Marquis Wellesley. 
 The Finance and Home Committee-room has one wall entirely occupied 
 by a picture of the grant of the Dewanee to the Company in 1765, the 
 foundation of the British power in India : here also are portraits of 
 Warren Hastings and the Marquis Cornwallis; Mirza Abul Hassan, 
 the Persian envoy to London in 1809, &c. The Library contains, per- 
 haps, the most splendid assemblage of Oriental Mss. in Europe, many 
 with illuminated drawings ; Tippoo Sultan's Register of Dreams (with 
 interpretations), and his Koran ; a large collection of Chinese printed 
 books ; and a Ms. Sanscrit tract on the Astrolabe, of which Chaucer's 
 celebrated treatise is a literal translation, though the poet may have 
 translated it from an Arabic or a Latin version. 
 
 Here is also a Museum, which is open gratuitously to the public on 
 Fridays from 11 to 3 ; and with the Library on other days by tickets 
 from Directors. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 The East India Company is now an exclusively political institution; the Act 
 3 & 4 Will. IV., prolonging the charter till 1854, debarring the Company from the 
 privilege of tradins. Before this reduction, nearly 400 men were employed in the 
 warehouses, and the number of clerks was above 400. The fifteen warehouses often 
 contained 50,000,0001hs. (above 22, 000 tons) of tea; and l,200,0001bs. have been 
 sold in one day. (In 1668, the Company ordered " one hundred pounds weight of 
 good teye" to be sent home on speculation !) The clerks' business was very heavy : 
 from 1793 to 1813, the explanatory matter from the Indian Government filled 9094 
 large folio volumes ; and from that year to 1829,14,414; and a military despatch has 
 been accompanied with 199 papers, containing 13,511 pages. In 1826, the patron- 
 age of each East India Director for the year was estimated at 20,0001. sterling. 
 
 The twenty-four directors receive 300?. each, and 500?. for their 
 "chairs," being a charge on the Hindoos of 7700?. per annum. Except 
 
_ 
 
 EASTCHEAP. 265 
 
 a few satrapies, cadies, high-priests, and leaders of hosts, the directors 
 exercise the whole patronage of nomination to Indian office, civil, mili- 
 tary, and clerical. 
 
 EASTCHEAP. 
 
 This ancient thoroughfare originally extended from Tower-street 
 
 westward to the south end of Clement's-lane, where Cannon-street 
 
 i begins. It was the Eastern Cheap or Market, as distinguished from 
 
 ! Westcheap, now Cheapside ; and was crossed by Fish-Street-hill, the 
 
 eastern portion being Little Eastcheap (now Eastcheap), and the western 
 
 Great Easteheap : the latter, with St. Michael's Church, Crooked-lane, 
 
 disappeared in the new London Bridge approaches. 
 
 Mr. Kempe, F.S.A., considers Eastcheap to have been the principal 
 or Praetorian gate of the Roman garrison, leading into the Roman 
 Forum; and in 1831 there were found here a Roman roadway, two 
 wells, the architrave of a Roman building, &c. ; in Miles-lane, a piece 
 of the Roman wall, cinerary urns, coins of Claudius and Vespasian ; 
 and in Bush-lane, remains of the Praetorium itself in fragments of 
 brick, with inscriptions designating them as formed under the Prse- 
 torship of Agricola. (Gent. Mag. March 1842.) 
 
 Eastcheap was next the Saxon Market, celebrated from the time of 
 Fitzstephen to the days of Lydgate for the provisions sold there : 
 " Then I hyed me into Est-Chepe, 
 One cryes ribbes of bef'e and many a pye : 
 Pewter pottes they clattered on a heape." London Lyckpenny. 
 
 In Great Eastcheap was the Soar's Head Tavern, first mentioned 
 temp. Richard II. ; the scene of the revels of Falstaff and Henry V., 
 when Prince of Wales, in Shakspeare's Henry IV., Part 2. Stow 
 relates a riot in " the cooks' dwellings" here on St. John's eve 1410, 
 by Princes John and Thomas, for unceremoniously quelling which the 
 mayor, aldermen, and sheriff were cited before Chief- Justice Gascoigne, 
 but discharged honourably, the king reproving his own sons. The 
 tavern was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but was rebuilt in two 
 years, as attested by a boar's head cut in stone, with the initials of the 
 landlord, I. T., and the date 1668, above the first-floor window. This 
 sign-stone is now in the Guildhall library. The house stood between 
 Small-alley and St. Michael's-lane, and' in the rear looked upon St. 
 Michael's churchyard, where was buried a draiver, or waiter, at the 
 tavern, d. 1720: in the church was interred John Rhodoway, "Vintner 
 at the Bore's Head," 1623. 
 
 Maitland, in 1739, mentions the Boar's Head, with " This is the 
 chief tavern in London" under the sign. Goldsmith (Essays), Boswell 
 (Life of Dr. Johnson), and Washington Irving (Sketch-book), have 
 idealised the house as the identical place which Falstaff frequented, for- 
 getting its destruction in the Great Fire. The site of the Boar's Head 
 is very nearly that of the statue of King William IV. 
 
 In 1834, Mr. Kempe, F.S.A., exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries a carved 
 oak figure of Sir John Falstaff, in the costume of the Ifith century. It supported 
 an ornamental bracket over one side of the door of the Boar's Head, a figure of 
 Prince Henry sustaining that on the other. The Falstaff was the property of 
 Mr. Thomas Shelton, brazier, Great Eastcheap, whose ancestors had lived in the 
 shop he then occupied ever since the Great Fire. He well remembered the last 
 Grand Shakspearean Dinner-p^rty at the Boar's Head, about 1784. A boar's head 
 with silver tusks, which had been suspended in some room in the tavern, perhaps 
 the Half-Moon or Pomgranate (see Henry IV. act ii. sc. 4), at the Great Fire fell 
 down with the ruins of the house, and was conveyed to Whitechapel Mount, where, 
 many years after, it was recovered and identified with its former locality. At a 
 public-house, No. 12 Miles-lane, was long preserved a tobacco-box with a paint- 
 ing of the original Boar's Head tavern on the lid. 
 
266 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In High-street, Southwark, between Nos. 25 and 23, was formerly the Boar't 
 Head Inn, part of Sir John FastolfFs benefaction to Magdalen College. Oxio d. 
 Sir John was one of the bravest generals in the French wars, under the fourth, 
 fifth, and sixth Henries; but he is not the Falstaff of Shakspeare. The Boar's 
 Head premises in Southwark, latterly a court of eleven tenements, were taken 
 down for the New London Bridge approaches. 
 
 EGYPTIAN HALL, PICCADILLY. 
 
 This edifice and a smaller structure in Y/elbeck-street are, in single 
 features and details, the only specimens of Egyptian architecture in 
 London. The latter was, as originally erected, the most correct in 
 character, but has since been almost spoiled. The Hall in Piccadilly 
 conforms to the style in the columns and the general outline, as indi- 
 cated by the inclined torus-moulding at the extremity of the front, the 
 cornice^ &c. ; though the composition itself is at variance with the prin- 
 ciples of genuine Egyptian architecture, the front being divided into two 
 floors, with wide instead of narrow windows to both. The details are 
 mostly from the great temple of Tentyra, with the scarabaeus, winged 
 mundus, hieroglyphics, c. The architect's name, G. F. Robinson, is 
 inscribed upon the facade. The entablature is supported by colossal 
 figures of Isis and Osiris, sculptured by L. Gahagan. The Hall cost 
 16,000?.. and was built in 1812 for a museum of natural history collected 
 by W. Bullock, F.L.S., during thirty years' travel in Central America, 
 which was exhibited here until 1819, when it was sold in 2248 lots.* 
 
 The Egyptian Hall contains lecture-rooms, a bazaar, and a large 
 central room, " the Waterloo Gallery." As the Hall has been a sort 
 of Ark of Exhibitions, we enumerate the Curiosities which have been 
 shewn here : 
 
 1816. The Judgment of Bruins, painted by Le Thiere, president of the Aca- 
 demy of St. Luke, at Rome. Water-colour Paintings of Minerals and Shells, by 
 Chev. de Barde. Napoleon's Travelling-Chariot, built for his Russian campa'gn, 
 and adapted for a bed-room, dressing-room, pantry, kitchen, &c. ; captured at 
 Waterloo: seen at the Egyptian Hall by 800,000 persons; now in the Tussaud 
 Exhibition. 
 
 1819. Sale of Bullock's Museum : produce, 9974/. 13s. ; cost, 30,OOOZ. 
 
 1821. Fac-simile of the Tomb of Psammiithis, King of Thebes, discovered by 
 Belzoni ; constructed and painted from drawings and wax-impressions taken by 
 him of all the original figures, hieroglyphics, emblems, &c. ; the two principal 
 chambers illuminated: first day, 1900 admissions, at 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 1822. Laplanders and Reindeer: 1001. per day taken for six weeks. Pair 
 of Wapeti. or Elks, from the Upper Missouri ; and a pretended Mermaid, visited 
 by 300 and 400 persons daily. t 
 
 1824. Mexican Museum, ancient and modern. Esquimaux Man and Woman. 
 Hatching Chickens by Artificial Heat. 
 
 1825. Rath, or Burmese Imperial State-Carriage, captured by the British in 
 1824: the coach and the throne-seat, studded with20,000 gems, are stated to have 
 cost 12,500f. at Tavoy. Model of Switzerland. 
 
 1826. The Musical Sisters, four and six years old, harpist and pianist. Alt:ir- 
 piece, by Murillo. The Pcecilorama, views painted by Stanfield. 
 
 1827. The Tyrolese Minstrels, four males and one female. 
 
 * Bullock's "Liverpool Museum" was opened at 22 Piccadilly, in 1805, in 
 the room originally occupied by Astley for his evening performance of horseman- 
 ship ; his amphitheatre not being roofed until 1780, and therefore allowing only 
 day exhibitions. 
 
 t In Manners and Customs of the Japanese, published in 1841, the above 
 "Mermaid" (the head and shoulders of a monkey neatly attached to a headless 
 fish) is proved to have been manufactured in Japan, brought to Europe by an 
 American adventurer, and valued at 1000J. A pretended Mermaid was also ex- 
 hibited in London in 1775; and in Broad Court, Covent Garden, in 1794. 
 
EGYPTIAN HALL, PICCADILLY. 267 
 
 1828. Pictures of Battles of the French Armies, painted by General Le Jeune. 
 The Death of Virginia, painted by Le Thiere. Hay don's Picture of the Mock 
 Election in ihe King's Bench, bought by George IV. for 800 guineas, and sent 
 from the Egyptian Hall to St. James's Palace. 
 
 1S29. Troubadours (singers). The Siamese Twins, two youths of eighteen, na- 
 tives of Siam, united by a short band at the pit of the stomach "two perfect 
 bodies, bound together by an inseparable link." 
 
 1830. Fox Bipartitus, or two voices in one. Sculpture, by Lough. Tableaux 
 Vivans (ancient pictures by living figures). Michael Boai, or the chin-chopper, 
 a la Buckhorse. 
 
 1831. Model of the Theatre Francaise at Paris. A Cobra di Capello, the first 
 brought alive to Europe. Two Orang-outangs and a Chimpanzee. A Double- 
 sighted Boy, M'Kean, aged eight years. Scrymegour's Picture of the First Sign in 
 Egypt. Double-sighted Dog. The Egyptian Hall converted into a Bazaar. 
 
 1832. Museum of Etruscan Antiquities. Royal Clarence Vase, of glass, made 
 at Birmingham. The Brothers Koeller, singers, from Switzerland. Haydon's 
 Pictures of Xenophon and the 10,000; and his Mock Election, lent by George IV. 
 for exhibition; Death of Eucles, &c. 
 
 1835. Views of Paris, painted by M. Dupressoir. 
 
 1837. A living Male Child, with four hands, four arms, four legs, four feet, and 
 two bodies, born at Staleybridge, Manchester. Masquerades. 
 
 1838. Le Brun's Picture of the Battle of Arbela, embossed on copper, by Szent- 
 petery. --Captain Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo, with 190,000 figures; 
 now in the Museum of the United Service Institution. 
 
 1839. Skeleton of a Mammoth Ox. Pictorial Storm at Sea, introducing Grace 
 Darling and the " Forfarshire Wreck." 
 
 1840. Aubusson Carpets. Ung-ka-puii (Gibbon monkey), from Sumatra. Bio- 
 plulax, or Life and Property Protector. Haydon's large Picture of the General 
 Anti-Slavery Convention. 
 
 1841. Catlin's North-American Indian Gallery of 310 portraits of chiefs, and 
 200 views of villages, religious ceremonies, dances, ball-plays, buffalo-hunts, in 
 all, 3000 full-length figures, with costumes and other produce, from a wigwam to 
 a rattle, filling a room 106 feet long. The Missouri Leviathan skeleton. The 
 Great Pennard Cheese, presented to the Queen. 
 
 1843. Sir George Hauler's Great Picture of the First Reformed Parliament, 
 figures half-life size. Model of Venice. The Napoleon Museum. 
 
 1844. The American Dwarf, " Tom Thumb,"* whose exhibition often realised 
 125^. a-day; while, in sickening contrast, in an adjoining room, the pictures of 
 Haydon (to whom Wordsworth wrote "High is our calling, friend") were 
 scarcely visited by a dozen persons in a week. The " Banishment of Aristides," 
 Haydon's last picture, was shewn here, and its failure hastened the painter to his 
 awful end. Nine Ojibbeway Indians, from Lake Huron, in their native costumes, 
 exhibiting their war-dances and sports. German Dwarfs. 
 
 1845. The Eureka, a machine for composing hexameter Latin verses; a 
 practical illustration of the law of evolution. Second Exhibition of Captain 
 Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo. 
 
 1846. Prof. Faber's Euphonia, or speaking automaton, enunciating sounds 
 and words; played by keys. Mammoth Horse. Polar Dog. Bosjesman Family. 
 The Rock Harmonicon. Curiosities from Australia. Professor Kist's Poses 
 Plastiques. A Dwarf dressed in a bear-skin: the "What is it?''; immediately 
 detected. 
 
 1847. Second Family of Bosjesmam (Bushmen), from Southern Africa. 
 Models of Ancient and Modern Jerusalem, by Brunetti. Exhibition of Modern 
 Paintings; free to artists. 
 
 * "Tom Thumb" (Charles S. Stratton) was born at Bridgeport, Connecticut, 
 U.S., January 11, 1832. He was, in 1845. 25 inches high, and weighed 15 pounds. 
 He was first exhibited in New York; in 1844 he came to London, and appeared at 
 the Princess' Theatre February 21, 1844. He was next shewn to the Queen and 
 Queen Dowager, and received several costly presents. He then appeared in a 
 pretty miniature chariot, drawn by two Shetland ponies, with which he visited 
 Paris in 1845, and was shewn to Louis-Philippe. He next visited Belgium and 
 Spain, and was present at a bull-fight with Queen Isabella. He then revisited 
 England, and returned to New York. 
 
268 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1848. Pictures of Recent Political Events in Paris. The Mysterious Lady. 
 Figure of a Russian Lady in veined marbles. Banvard's Dioramic Picture of the 
 Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, 3000 miles, stated to be painted on three miles 
 of canvass (!) ; sketched before the painter was of age. 
 
 1850. Panorama of Fremont's Overland Route to California. Bonomi's Pano- 
 rama of the Nile, 800 feet long: representing 1720 miles distance, closing with 
 the Pyramids and Sphinx. 
 
 1852. March 15, Mr. Albert Smith fir^t pave the narrative of his Ascent of Mont 
 Blanc in 1851, accompanying the exhibition of cleverly -painted moving dio- 
 ramic- pictures of its perils and sublimities. 
 
 The Egyptian Hall usually realises a clear net rental of 1100?. per 
 annum ; after paying ground-rent and rates, 413J. : for Tom Thumb's 
 exhibition-room was paid 441. per month. In the western wing was 
 the Medical Hall of Dr. Reece, the champion of Joanna Southcott. 
 
 (See also MANSION HOUSE : Egyptian Hall.) 
 
 ELECTRIC TELEGRAPHS. 
 
 The Electro-telegraphic system in England has been carried out 
 exclusively by the Electric Telegraph Company, at their Central Office 
 in Lothbury, which has thus become the metropolis of stations. Here 
 the whole system is most clearly exhibited; the Company having pur- 
 chased all Cooke and Wheatstone's patents, and adopted their peculiar 
 features, the suspended conducting-wire and the Double Needle Tele- 
 graph ; and, in certain cases, Mr. Bain's chemical Printing Telegraph. 
 The Office is in Founders'-court,* on the north side of the Bank 
 of England ; where anciently dwelt founders " that cast candlesticks, 
 chafing-dishes, spice-mortars," &c., and " turned them bright with the 
 feet, making a loathsome noise, whence the name of Loth-fterze, or court" 
 (Stow); all which is strikingly contrasted with the wonder-working 
 silence of the Electric Telegraph operations. 
 
 The entrance to the office is bold and picturesque : above the door- 
 way is a balcony ; and between two enriched Ionic pilasters, carrying 
 an arched pediment, is the large transparent dial of an electric clock. 
 
 You first enter a hall 42 by 32 feet, entirely lighted from the coved 
 roof of plate-glass in panels. At the east and west ends is a screen 
 of two stories; the first story supported by Doric columns, the upper 
 Corinthian ; both communicate with the apartments in which are the 
 electric-telegraph machines, and the two ends are connected by side- 
 galleries, there being thus two railed stories or galleries throughout the 
 hall; at each end, below, are co. inters, and above them the names of the 
 various places to which messages can be sent. At the counters are clerks, 
 who receive the messages, enter them, and pass them to another set of 
 clerks, who transmit them to those employed at the machines above 
 by lifts or small travs, working by cords in square tubes, a lift and 
 bell to each desk. 
 
 Behind the counter is the "translating office," Avhere all messages 
 are transferred into the abbreviated code arranged by the Company. 
 Such messages as descriptions of persons suspected of dishonesty are 
 not translated, but sent in full : only the lists of prices in corn, share, 
 and other markets are so abbreviated. 
 
 The west side of the hall is devoted to the business of the towns on 
 the North- Western and Great- Western lines; and the eastern side is 
 for the Eastern, South-Eastern, and South-Western lines, and the 
 Admiralty. 
 
 * Founders' Hall, now a Dissenters' meeting-house, was in 1792 nicknamed 
 "the cauldron of sedition." Here Waithman made his first political speech, and 
 with his fellow-orators was routed by constables sent by the Lord-Mayor, Sir James 
 Sanderson, to disperse the meeting. 
 
ELECTRIC TELEGRAPHS. 269 
 
 The station is connected with the Euston-square station by wires 
 laid along Moorgate-street, Finsbury-square, the City-road, and the 
 New-road ; with the Shoreditch station by wires thence to the other sys- 
 tem of wires at Finsbury; and from the Nine Elms, Waterloo, and London- 
 Bridge stations, by wires laid to the latter station ; and thence over 
 London-bridge and along King-William-street to the Central Office. 
 
 Several wires are laid to each terminus, lest any of them become 
 defective, when the connexion can be carried on by other wires, as the 
 expense of taking up the pavement would be enormous for so slight a 
 cause. The wires are of copper, and are covered with gutta-percha, 
 India-rubber, or some resinous substances, which, being non-conduc- 
 tors, prevent the escape of the electricity. 
 
 The wires from the several railway termini are brought through iron 
 pipes laid down under the pavement of the streets; and meeting in 
 Founders'-court, are continued through the south wall of the basement 
 of the station, and descending into the " test-box," are fastened there 
 to pegs fitted into the back of the box. At the bottom run a corre- 
 sponding number of "house-wires," and these go to the machines in 
 the galleries. Connexion is maintained between the line and house-wires 
 by small wires running perpendicularly from one to the other. All the 
 wires are numbered at the desks to correspond from batteries to machines, 
 and from machines to the test-box, that the electric circle may thus be 
 complete. 
 
 In the galleries the wires are carried along the ceilings from the 
 respective machines to the battery-chambers and the test-box; the bat- 
 tery-wires running east and west, and the house- wires to test-box north 
 and south. Several long and narrow chambers are devoted to the 
 batteries, which, when charged, are found to remain above a month in 
 good working order. They are so numbered and arranged in reference 
 to the wires, that any defect can be immediately rectified. Each rail- 
 way has a division to itself, and thus all risk of confusion is avoided. 
 The communications are spelt through letter by letter, and each word 
 is verified by the receiver to the sender as the message proceeds. The 
 average speed is somewhat more than two letters per second, being 
 nearly at the same rate as ordinary writing. 
 
 At the Centra] Station, also, a sort of Telegraphic editor prepares from the 
 morning newspapers, at an early hour, a short abstract of the most important 
 news; the general commercial information most in request, as the state of the 
 stock and share market, and of the money-market, the state of the wind and 
 weather at different ports of the kingdom, shipping and sporting intelligence, the 
 rates of the markets of every description, and the leading general political news. 
 This, when written out, is sent up to the instrument-room, from whence it is 
 despatched to various subscription-rooms in different parts of the country, where 
 it arrives by eight o'clock in the morning. All news of adequate importance 
 is thus diffused over the kingdom literally with the speed of lightning. Thus, 
 the public in Edinburgh are informed by e'ght o'clock in the morning of all in- 
 teresting facts which appear in the London morning journals ; and the provincial 
 journals are similarly supplied. 
 
 Bain's chemical Printing Telegraph is worked by the Company on 
 commercial lines of railway. By this telegraph 300 words per minute 
 have been sent, and 56,000 messages per month have been transmitted 
 on the Eastern Counties line for railway purposes alone; and for 
 mercantile purposes, the contents of a closely-printed octavo volume 
 have been sent out in messages, per day, from the Central Telegraph 
 Office alone. Such is the facility afforded by the instruments now in 
 use, that they are chiefly worked by boys taken from the London Orphan 
 Asylum, who fully understand how to manage them after a fortnight's 
 practice. By this telegraph the Queen's speech in 1852 (754 words) 
 was printed to Manchester in twenty-five minutes. 
 
270 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BLKCTRIC TBLBGBAPH LI 
 
 The Houses of Parliament have an Electric 
 Telegraph of their own, communicating with 
 the clerks' offices, committee-rooms, &c. 
 
 There are also, in communication with the Cen- 
 tral Office in Lothbury, stations at the several Rail- 
 way termini ; at the General Post-Office, St. Mar- 
 tin's-le-Grand ; No. 7 Knightsbridge -terrace; and at 
 No. 448 West Strand, open day and night. Rate 
 of charge for twenty words, 100 miles and under, 
 2s. 6d.; over 100 miles, 5s. An addition of one-half 
 the rate for each ten words or fraction of ten words 
 additional, or a charge of 3d. per word, at the option 
 of the sender. The tariff of charges maybe had at 
 the office ; with a map of the stations, whence the an- 
 
 . 
 
 In 1851, the Admiralty Semaphores were removed, and the Electric 
 Telegraph substituted for them. By this means, despatches can be sent 
 off and received by night or day, and in any kind of weather ; whereas, 
 the Semaphores could only work by day, and that in fine weather : this 
 was a great inconvenience to Government, especially the naval depart- 
 ment, which had only one line, from the Admiralty, Whitehall, to 
 Portsmouth ; whilst now, orders can be transmitted in a moment to the 
 Royal arsenals of Woolwich, Chatham, and Sheerness, Portsmouth, 
 Plymouth and Devonport, Pembroke, &c. (See ADMIRALTY, page 2.) 
 Not only is the Electric Telegraph of great importance to Government, 
 but to our merchants and shipping interest, in the announcement of the 
 arrivals and departures of the foreign and colonial mails, and vessels 
 from all parts of the globe ; the last prices of the markets and stocks ; 
 Parliamentary bills, and intelligence of what is passing in both Houses 
 of Parliament during the session ; courts of law, &c. 
 
 In 1851, the Needle Telegraph of Wheatstone was carried round the 
 Great Exhibition Building in Hyde Park, and thence to the Police 
 Station, Great Scotland-yard, Whitehall. And in 1852, the exact 
 Greenwich time was first conveyed by the Electric Telegraph to various 
 parts of England. 
 
 The first newspaper report by Electric Telegraph appeared in the Morning Chro- 
 nicle, May 8, 1845, detailing a railway meeting held at Portsmouth on the preced- 
 ing evening. On April 10, in the same year, a game of chess was played by Electric 
 Telegraph, between Captain Kennedy, at the South-Western Railway terminus, 
 and Mr. Staunton, at Gosport : the mode of playing was by numbering the 
 
 rires of the chess-board and the men; and in conveying the moves, the 
 tricity travelled backward and forward during the game upwards of 10,000 
 miles. 
 
 In 1845, by the Electric Telegraph then laid from Paddington to the Slough sta- 
 tion, on the Great Western Railway, John Tawell was captured on suspicion 
 of having murdered Sarah Hart at Salt-hill, on Jan. 1. Tawell left Slough by 
 the railway on that evening ; and at the same instant, by telegraph, his person 
 was described, with instructions to the police to watch him on his arrival at Pad- 
 dington: he was accordingly followed by a police-sergeant in an omnibus to the 
 Bank, thence to the Jerusalem Coffee-house, over London-bridge to the Borough, 
 then back to Scott's yard, Cannon-street, where he was apprehended and identified. 
 On Nov. 13, 1851, the Submarine Electric Telegraph between Dover and Calais 
 was first worked for the public ; and the opening and closing prices of the Paris 
 Bourse were transmitted to the Stock Exchange, London, during business-hours. 
 
 ELY PLACE. 
 
 All that remains of this celebrated palace, anciently Ely House, 
 which stood on the north side of Holborn-hill, and was the town man- 
 sion of the Bishops of Ely, is the Chapel of St. Ethelreda, already de- 
 scribed at pp. 167 and 243. The site is otherwise occupied by two rows 
 of houses known as Ely-place, and a knot of tenements, streets, and 
 alleys ; but the locality is fraught with the historic associations of five 
 
ELY PLACE. 271 
 
 centuries. Its first occupier, Bishop John de Kirkby, dying in 1290> 
 bequeathed a messuage and nine cottages on this spot to his successors 
 in the see of Ely. William de Luda, the next bishop, annexed some 
 lands, added to the residence, and in 1297 devised them to the see, 
 on condition that his successor should provide for the service of St. 
 Ethelreda's Chapel. John de Hotham, who died in 1336, planted 
 a vineyard, kitchen-garden, orchard, &c. Thomas de Arundel, pre- 
 ferred to the see in 1374, re-edified the episcopal buildings and the 
 Chapel ; and erected a large gate-house towards Holborn, the stonework 
 of which remained in Stow's time. Ely House was in part let by the 
 see to noblemen. Here "old John of Gaunt, time-honoured Lan- 
 caster," died Feb. 13, 1399 ; and Shakspeare has made it the scene 
 of Lancaster's last interview with Richard II. Following Hall and 
 Holinshed, too, Shakspeare refers to this Place when Richard Duke 
 of Gloucester, at the Council in the Tower, thus addresses the Bishop : 
 " D. of Glou. My lord of Ely, when I was last in Holborn, 
 
 I saw good strawberries in your garden there ; 
 
 I do beseech you send for some of them. 
 B. ofElii. Marry, and will, my lord, with all my heart." 
 
 Richard III. act iii. sc. 4. 
 
 At Ely House were kept divers feasts by the Sergeants-at-Law : at 
 one in 1495, Henry VII. was present with his queen ; and at another 
 feast in 1531, on making eleven new Sergeants, Henry VIII. and Queen 
 Katherine were banquetted here with sumptuousness wanting '' little 
 of a feast at a coronation ;" and open-house was kept for five days. In 
 157G, at the mandatory request of Queen Elizabeth, Bishop Cox leased 
 to Sir Christopher Hatton for twenty-one years the greater portion of 
 the demesne, on payment at Midsummer-day of a red rose, ten loads of 
 hay, and 10Z. per annum ; the Bishop reserving to himself and his suc- 
 cessors the right of walking in the gardens, and gathering 20 bushels of 
 roses yearly. Hatton largely improved the estate, and then petitioned 
 the Queen to require the Bishop to make over the whole property ; 
 whereupon ensued the Bishop's remonstrance, and Elizabeth's undig- 
 nified threat to " unfrock" him : and in 1578 the entire property was 
 conveyed to Hatton, and Elizabeth further retaliated by keeping the see 
 of Ely vacant for eighteen years from the death of Bishop Cox in 1591. 
 
 Aggas's map shews the vineyard, meadow, kitchen-garden, and 
 orchard, of Ely Place to have extended northward from Holborn-hill to 
 the present Hat ton -wall and Vine-street ; and east and west, from 
 Saffron-hill to nearly the present Leather-lane: but except a cluster 
 of houses (Ely Rents) on Holborn-hill, the surrounding ground was 
 entirely open and unbuilt on ; the names of Saffron -hill, Field lane, and 
 Lily, Turnmill, and Vine streets, carry the mind's-eye back to this sub- 
 urban appropriation. The Sutherland View, 1543, also shews the 
 gate-house, chapel, great banquetting-hall, &c. Sir Christopher lived 
 in great stute in Hatton House, as Ely Place was now called ; but Eli- 
 zabeth, " which seldom gave loans, and never forgave due debts," pressed 
 the payment of some 40,OOOZ. arrears, which the Chancellor could not 
 meet ; so it went to his heart, and he died Nov. 20, 1591. He was suc- 
 ceeded by his nephew, whose widow, the strange Lady Hatton, in 1598 
 was married to Sir Edward Coke, then attorney- general, but who could 
 not gain admission to Hatton House: she died "at her house in Hoi- 
 bourne," Jan. 3, 1646. The Bishops of Ely made several attempts to 
 recover the entire property ; but, during the imprisonment of Bishop 
 Wren by the Long Parliament, most of the palatial buildings were 
 taken down, and upon the garden were built Hatton-garden, Great 
 and Little Kirby-streets, Charles-street, Cross-street, and Hatton- 
 wall. During the Interregnum, Hatton House and offices were used 
 as a prison and hospital. In 1772 the estate was purchased by the 
 
272 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Crown ; a town-house was built for the Bishops, No. 27 Dover-street, 
 Piccadilly ; and about 1775 the present Ely-place was built, the Chapel 
 remaining on the west side. A remnant of the episcopal residence is 
 preserved in, and has given name to, Mitre-court, leading from Hatton- 
 garden to Ely-p'ace. There, worked into the wall, as the sign of a 
 public-house, is a mitre sculptured in stone, with the date 1546, which 
 probably once decorated Ely Palace or its precinct gateway. 
 
 The stage-play of " Christ's Passion" was acted in the reign of James 
 I. "at Elie House, in Holborn, when Gundomar (the Spanish Am- 
 bassador) lay there on Good Friday at night, at which there were thou- 
 sands present" (Prynne's Uistriomastix, p. 117, note); this being the 
 last performance of a Religious Mystery in England. At Ely House, 
 also, was arranged the grand masque given by the four Inns of Court to 
 Charles I. and Queen Henrietta-Maria, at Whitehall, on Candlemas- 
 day, 1634, at the cost of 21,000?. ; when the masquers, horsemen, musi- 
 cians, dancrs, with the grand committee (including the great lawyers 
 Whitelocke, Hyde (afterwards Lord Clarendon), and Seldon, went in 
 procession by torchlight from Ely House, down Chancery Lane, along 
 the Strand, to Whitehall. 
 
 EXCHANGE ALLEY, 
 
 Now 'Change-alley, between No. 24 Cornhill and No. 70 Lombard- 
 street, is described by Strype as "a place of a very considerable con- 
 course of merchants, seafaring men, and other traders, occasioned by 
 the great coffee-houses that stand there. Chiefly now brokers, and such 
 as deal in the buying and selling of stocks, frequent it." Thither Jews 
 and Gentiles migrated in 1700 : for a century it was the focus of 
 all the monetary operations of England, and in great part of Europe ; 
 and even to this hour, the Stock Exchange bears the generic designa- 
 tion of "the Alley." The rendezvous of the jobbers and brokers was 
 Jonathan's Coffee-house, where gambling of all kinds was carried on; 
 notwithstanding a formal prohibition against their assemblage issued 
 by the City of London, which provision continued unrepealed till 1825. 
 Exchange-alley was the great arena of the South-Sea Bubble of 
 1720, and was every day blocked up by crowds who came "to venture 
 in the Alley :" 
 
 " There is a gulf where thousands fell, 
 
 Here all the bold adventurers came; 
 
 A narrow sound, though deep as hell, 
 
 'Change Alley is the dreadful name. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Meanwhile, secure on Garraway's cliffs, 
 
 A savage race, by shipwrecks fed, 
 Lie waiting for the founder'd skiffs, 
 
 And strip the bodies of the dead." Swift. 
 
 In a print called the " Bubblers' Medley" are " stock-jobbing cards, 
 or the humours of 'Change-alley." * 
 
 " The headlong fool that wants to be a swopper 
 Of gold and silver coin for English copper, 
 May in 'Change Alley prove himself an ass, 
 And give rich metal for adulterate brass." 
 
 Nine of Hearts, in a Pack of Bubble Cards. 
 
 The scene has been excellently painted by E. M. Ward, with the 
 motley throng in 'Change-alley, beaux and ladies turned gamblers, and 
 the accessory pawnbroker's shop, in a truly Hogarthian spirit : the 
 picture is in the Vernon Gallery. 
 
 Defoe (1722) describes Garraway's as frequented by "people of 
 quality who have business in the City, and the most considerable and 
 
 * See Mackay's Memoirs of Extraordinary Popular Delusions (illustrated), 
 vol. i. p. 60, 1S52. 
 
EXCHANGES: ROYAL EXCHANGE. 273 
 
 wealthy of the citizens ;" Robins's, by " the foreign banquiers, and often 
 even foreign ministers ;" and Jonathan's by " buyers and sellers of stock." 
 
 1766 was a South- Sea year in East India stock, when patriots were 
 made or marred by jobbing : " from the Alley to the House," said 
 Walpole, " is like a path of ants." 
 
 " The centre of the jobbing is in the kingdom of Exchange-alley and its 
 adjacencies. The limits are easily surrounded in about a minute and a half: 
 viz. stepping out of Jonathan's into the Alley, you turn your face full south ; 
 moving on a few paces, and then turning due east, you advance to Garraway's ; 
 from thence going out at the other door, you go on still east into Birchin-lane; 
 and then halting a little at the Sword-blade Bank, to do much mischief in fewest 
 words, you immediately face to the north, enter Cornhill, visit two or three petty 
 provinces there in your way west ; and thus having boxed your compass, and 
 sailed round the whole stock-jobbing globe, you turn into Jonathan's again; and 
 so, as most of the great follies of life oblige us to do. you end just where you 
 began." The Anatomy of Exchange Alley, 1719. 
 
 'Change Alley is a maze of thoroughfares. " With something like four or five 
 entrances, two from Lombard-street, two from Cornhill, and one from Birchin- 
 lane, there is great danger of losing your way either to th<; right or the left ; you 
 may possibly find that, instead of going as you intended through the Alley, and 
 reaching Cornhill, you have in reality only taken another turning which leads you 
 into Lombard-street, whence you started." The City, p. 169. 
 
 EXCHANGES. 
 
 THE ROVAL EXCHANGE, at the north-western extremity of Corn- 
 hill, is the third Exchange built nearly on the same site, for the meeting 
 of merchants and bankers. The first "goodely Bursse" was projected 
 by Sir James Gresham, Lord Mayor in 1538, who submitted to Thomas 
 Cromwell, Lord Privy- Seal, a plan taken from the Burse at Antwerp. 
 This application failed ; but the project was renewed thirty years later 
 by Thomas Gresham, the younger son of Sir James, born in London in 
 1519, apprenticed to his nncle Sir John Gresham, and admitted in 1543 
 to the Mercers' Company ; in whose hall hangs a contemporary 
 portrait of Sir Thomas Gresham, who was royal agent at Antwerp to 
 Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Elizabeth, and was knighted when am- 
 bassador at the court of the Duchess of Parma. Like other bankers 
 and merchants of that da}', Gresham had his shop in Lombard-street, 
 as yet the only Exchange. The house was on the site of No. 68, the 
 banking-house of Martin, Stone, and Co. : over the door was Gresham's 
 crest,* a grasshopper, as a sign, which was seen by Pennant, but has 
 disappeared by piecemeal. 
 
 On June 6, 1566, the first stone of the Burse was laid in Cornhill, 
 by Sir Thomas Gresham and several aldermen, each of whom " laid a 
 piece of gold, which the workmen picked up." The City had previously 
 purchased and taken down eighty houses, and prepared the site; the 
 whole having been conveyed to Sir Thomas Gresham, who " most 
 frankly and lovingly" promised, that within a month after the Burse 
 should be finished, he would present it in equal moieties to the City and 
 the Mercers' Company ; as a pledge of which Gresham, before Alderman 
 Rivers and other citizens, gave his hand to Sir William Garrard, and 
 drank a carouse to his kinsman Thomas Howe. " How rarely do ancient 
 documents furnish us with such a picture of ancient manners!" By No- 
 vember 1567, the Burse was finished. As Flemish materials, Flemish 
 workmen, and a Flemish architect (Henryke) had been employed, so 
 
 * The letters of James Gresham, in the Paston Collection, are scaled with a 
 grasshopper; sufficient refutation of a tradition accounting for the adoption of 
 that heraldic symbol by Sir Thomas Gresham, from a grasshopper having saved 
 his life when he was a poor famished boy, by attracting a person to the spot 
 where he lay in a helpless condition ! Still, it were almost a pity to disturb the 
 popular legend, teaching, as it simply does, reliance upon God's providence. 
 
 T 
 
274 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the design closely imitated a Flemish building, the Great Burse of 
 Antwerp. Two prints, date 1569, and probably engraved by Gresham's 
 order, shew the exterior and interior: a quadrangle, with an arcade; a 
 corridor, or pawn* of stalls above ; and in the high-pitched roof, cham- 
 bers with dormer windows. On the east side of the Cornhill entrance 
 was a lofty bell-tower, from which, at twelve at noon and at six in the 
 evening, was rung a bell, the merchants' call to 'Change ; while, on the 
 north side, a Corinthian column rose twice the height of the building ; 
 both tower and column surmounted by a grasshopper, also placed at each 
 corner of the quadrangle. The columns of the court were marble; the 
 upper portion was laid out in 100 shops, the lower in walks and rooms for 
 the merchants, with shops on the exterior. Thus there were the " Scotch 
 Walk," "Harnbro," and the "Irish," "East Country," "Swedish," 
 " Norway," "American," "Jamaica," " Spanish," " Portugal," " French," 
 " Greek,"and " Dutch and Jewellers'" walks. Long after the opening of 
 the Burse, the shops remained "in a manner empty;" when, upon a re- 
 port that the Queen was about to visit it, Gresham prevailed upon the 
 shopkeepers in the upper pawn to furnish their shops with " wares and 
 wax-lights," on promise of " one year rent-free." The rent was then 
 40*. a shop, in two years raised to 4 marks, and then to 4Z. 10*. a year, 
 all the shops being let. " Then the milliners or haberdashers sold mouse- 
 traps, bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' trumps, &c. ; armourers, that 
 sold both old and new armour; apothecaries, booksellers, goldsmiths, 
 and glass-sellers." (Howes.) All being prepared, on Jan. 23, 1570-1, 
 amidst the ringing of bells in every part of the City, "the Queen's Ma- 
 jesty, attended with her nobility, came from her house in the Strand 
 called Somerset House, and entered the City by Temple Bar, through 
 Fleet-street, Cheap, and so by the north side of the Burse, through 
 Threadneedle -street, to Sir Thomas Gresham's house in Bishopsgate- 
 street, where she dined. After dinner, her majesty returning through 
 Cornhill, entered the Burse on the south side" (Stow); and having 
 viewed the whole, especially the Pawne, which was richly furnished with 
 the finest wares, the Queen caused the Burse, by herald and trumpet, 
 to be proclaimed " The Royal Exchange :" 
 
 " Proclaim through every high street of the city, 
 This place be no longer called a Burse ; 
 But since the building's stately, fair, and strange, 
 Be it for ever called the Royal Exchange." 
 Queen Elizabeth's Troubles, Part 2. A Play by Thomas Heywood, 1609. 
 
 Sir Thomas Gresham died suddenly, Nov. 21, 1579, in the evening, on 
 his return from the Exchange ; " being cut off by untymely death, hav- 
 ing left a part of his rovall monument unperformed: that is, xxx. pic- 
 tures (statues) of kings and queenes of this land ; and to that purpose 
 left 30 roomes (niches) to place them in." It was then proposed that 
 before any citizen should be elected alderman, he should be "enjoyned 
 to pay the charge of makyng and fynishing one of the forsaid kings 
 or queenes theire pictures, to be ere'cted in the places aforesaid in the 
 Exchange, not exceeding 100 nobles (661. 6*. 8d.); the pictures to be 
 graven on wood, covered with lead, and then gilded and pavnted with 
 oyle-cullors ;" and the Court of Common Council subsequently made 
 the erection of one such statue a part of the fine for being freed from 
 the office of Sheriff. The building was often in danger from feather- 
 makers, and others that kept shops in the upper pawne, using " pannes 
 
 * Corrupted from bahn, German for a path or walk. There is a curious tra- 
 dition, not unsupported by facts, that the framework of the Exchange was con- 
 structed upon Gresham's estate at Rinxhall, near Battislord, Suffolk, formerly 
 rich in wood ; the remains of saw-pits are still discernible. The stone, slates, 
 iron, wainscot, and glass, were brought from Antwerp. 
 
EXCHANGES: ROYAL EXCHANGE. 275 
 
 of fyer," which were therefore forbidden by an order of the Court of 
 Aldermen. A print by Hollar, date 1644, shews the merchants in full 
 'Change, with the picturesque costumes of the respective countries : 
 
 " The new-come traveller, 
 With his disguised coat and ringed ear, 
 Trampling the Bourse's marble twice a day." 
 
 The statues, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Elizabeth, were 
 thus provided; and subsequently, James I., Charles I., and Charles II. 
 The statue of Charles I. was removed immediately after his execution, 
 and on its pedestal was inscribed Exit tyrannorum ultimus ; which was 
 in turn removed, and replaced with a new statue, after the Restoration. 
 Here also, on May 28, 1661, the acts for establishing the Commonwealth 
 were burned by the hands of the common hangman. 
 
 Gresham's Exchange was almost entirely destroyed in the Great 
 Fire of 1666 ; " when the kings fell down upon their faces, and the 
 greater part of the building after them, the founder's statue only re- 
 maining." Pepys refers to "Sir Thomas Gresham in the corner" as 
 the only statue that was left standing. After the death of Sir Thomas 
 Gresham, the affairs of the Royal Exchange passed under the manage- 
 ment of the Gresham Committee, as the trustees appointed under his 
 will, with certain members nominated by the Corporation. Thus ori- 
 ginated the Grand or Joint Committee, under whose direction the Ex- 
 change was rebuilt after the Great Fire upon the old foundations, by 
 Edward Jerman, one of the City Surveyors, and not by Sir Christopher 
 "Wren, as often stated ; but Wren was consulted in the project of the 
 rebuilding. Mr. Jupp, of Carpenters' Hall, possesses two large and 
 beautiful drawings of Jerman's design for the building, executed in 
 Indian ink upon vellum. Meanwhile, the merchants met " in the gardens 
 or walkes of Gresham College," being the site of the great court-yard 
 of the Excise Office; on which a temporary Exchange was erected for 
 a similar purpose, after the burning of the second Exchange in 1838. 
 
 Among the payments for Jerman's building is one by the Committee to Sir 
 John Denham, the poet, "His Majestie's Surveyor-General of his Workes, for his 
 trouble from time to time in coming down to view the Exchainge and streetes 
 adjoining ; as also in furthering theire addresses to His Majesty, and giving them 
 full warrants for Portland-stone ;" the Committee therefore ordered provision 
 to be made " of six or eight dishes of meate att the Sun Tavern, on Wednesday 
 next, to intertayne him withal at his comeing downe, and to present him with 
 thirty guinney-pieces of gold, as a toaken of theire gratitude." 
 
 Among other entries, we find that Caius Gabriel Cibber was apf ointed carver ; 
 the clock was to be set up by Edward Stauton, under the direction of Dr. Hook, hav- 
 ing chimes with four bells, playing six tunes ; William Wightman was to furnish a 
 set of sound and tuneable bells, at G/. 5s. per cwt. ; lour balconies were to be made 
 from the inner-pawn into the quadrangle, at a charge of not more than 3001. ; and 
 the signs to the shops in the pawns were not to be hung forth, but set over the 
 frieze of each shop. 
 
 The celebrated Sir Robert Viner, on March 22d, 1668 (1669), proffered to give 
 his Majesty's statue on horseback, cut in white marble, to stand upon the Royal 
 Exchange: this offer was declined because of the "bignesse" of the statue, which 
 Sir Robert Viner afterwards gave to be erected over the conduit at Stocks'-market ; 
 though the royal figure was an altered John Sobieski. 
 
 On Oct. 23d, 1667, Charles II. fixed the first pillar on the west side 
 of the north entrance to the Exchange. " The King was entertained by 
 the City and Company with a chine of beef, grand dish of fowl, gam- 
 mons of bacon, dried tongues, anchoves, caviare, etc., and plenty of 
 several sorts of wine. He gave 201. in gold to the workmen. The 
 interteynment was in a shedd built and adorned on purpose, upon the 
 Scotch walke." On the 31st, the Duke of York founded the corre- 
 sponding pier ; and on Nov. 18th, Prince Rupert fixed the pillar on the 
 east side of the south entrance ; both princes being similarly entertained. 
 
276 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 This second Exchange was opened Sept. 28, 1669 ; its cost, 58,962Z., 
 being defrayed in equal moieties by the City and the Mercers' Com- 
 pany. It was quadrangular in plan, and had its arcades, pawn above, 
 and statues in niches, like Gresham's Exchange ; it had also a three- 
 storied tower, with lantern and gilt grasshopper vane. The edifice 
 thus remained until the extensive repairs of 1820-26 (George Smith, 
 architect), when a stone tower, 128 feet high, was built on the south 
 front, in place of the timber one : these repairs cost 33,000?., including 
 60001. for stone staircases and floors. The Cornhill front had a lofty 
 archway, with four Corinthian columns ; emblematic statues of the four 
 quarters of the globe; statues of Charles I. and II. by Bushnell; statue 
 of Gresham by E. Pierce; four busts of Queen Elizabeth; alto-relievos 
 of Britannia, the Arts and Sciences, &c., and of Queen Elizabeth, and 
 her heralds proclaiming the original Exchange. The area within the 
 quadrangle was paved with " Turkey stones ;" in the centre was a statue 
 of Charles II. by Gibbons; in the arcade was a statue of Gresham by 
 Gibber ; and of Sir John Barnard, placed there in his lifetime (temp. 
 George II.). The arcade and area were arranged, nominally, into dis- 
 tinct walks for the merchants. 
 
 " For half an hour he feeds : and when he 's done, 
 
 In's elbow-chair he takes a nap till one ; 
 
 From thence to 'Change he hurries in a heat 
 
 (Where knaves and fools in mighty numbers meet, 
 
 And kindly mix the bubble with the cheat); 
 
 There barters, buys and sells, receives and pays, 
 
 And turns the pence a hundred several ways. 
 
 In that great hive, where markets rise and fall, 
 
 And swarms of muckworms round its pillars crawl, 
 
 He, like the rest, as busy as a bee, 
 
 Remains among the henpeck'd herd till three." 
 
 Wealthy Shopkeeper, 1700. 
 
 The royal statues were, on the south side, Edward I., Edward III., 
 Henry V.,"and Henry VI. ; on the west, Edward IV., Edward V., Henry 
 Vll./and Henry VIII. ; on the north, Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen 
 Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., Charles II., and James II ; on the east 
 were William and Mary, in a double niche, George I., George II., and 
 George III. These figures were in armour and Roman costume, the 
 Queens in the dresses of their respective times ; most of them were ori- 
 ginally gilt. George III. was sculptured by Wilton, George I. and 
 George II. by Rysbrack, and the major part of the others by Caius 
 Gabriel Gibber. 
 
 Originallv, the offices in the upper floors were let as shops for rich 
 and showy articles ; but they were forsaken in 1739 (Maitland), and 
 the galleries were subsequently occupied by the Royal Exchange Assu- 
 rance Offices, Lloyd's Coffee-house, the 'Merchant Seamen's Office, 
 the Gresham Lecture-room, and the Lord Mayor's Court Office : the 
 latter a row of offices divided by glazed partitions, the name of the 
 attorney being inscribed in large capitals upon a projecting board. 
 The vaults beneath the Exchange were let to different bankers ; and the 
 East India Company, for stowage of pepper. Surrounding the exterior 
 were shops, chiefly tenanted by lottery -office keepers, newspaper- 
 offices, watch and clock makers, notaries, stock-brokers, &c. The tower 
 contained a clock, with four dials, and chimes, and four wind-dials.* 
 
 On Jan. 10th, 1838, this Exchange was entirely burnt : the fire com- 
 menced in Lloyd's Rooms shortly after 10 P.M., and before 3 next 
 morning the clock-tower alone remained, the dials indicating the exact 
 * The chimes played at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock on Sunday, the 104th Psalm; 
 Monday, "God save the King;" Tuesday, "Waterloo March;" Wednesday, 
 "There's nae luck about the house;'' Thursday, "See the conquering hero 
 comes;" Friday, "Life let us cherish;" Saturday, "Foot-Guards' March." 
 
EXCHANGES: ROYAL EXCHANGE. 277 
 
 time at which the flames reached them ; north at Ih. 25m. ; south, 
 2h. 5m.: the last air played by the chimes, at 12, was, "There's nae 
 luck about the house." The conflagration was seen twenty-four miles 
 round London ; the roar of the winds, and the rush and crackling of 
 the flames, the falling of huge timbers, and the crash of roofs and walls, 
 were a fearful spectacle. 
 
 At the sale of the salvage, the porter's large hand-bell, rung daily before 
 closing the 'Change, (with the handle burnt,) fetched 31. 3s.; City Griffins, 302. 
 and 351. the pair; busts of Queen Elizabeth, Wl. 15s. and 18. the pair; figures of 
 Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, 1101. ; the statue of Anne, 101.5s.; George II., 
 SI. 5s.; George III. and Elizabeth, 1 U.I 5s. each; Charles II., 91. ; and the sixteen 
 other royal statues similar sums. The copper-gilt grasshopper vane was reserved. 
 
 After an interval of nearly four years, the rebuilding of the Exchange 
 was commenced from the designs of William Tite, F.R.S. ; the site 
 being enlarged by the removal of Bank-buildings, west of the old 
 Exchange, and the buildings eastward, nearly to Finch-lane. In ex- 
 cavating for the foundations was found a deep pit full of remains of 
 Roman London, specimens of which are preserved in the Museum at 
 Guildhall. (See CORNHILL, p. 234.) The foundation-stone of the new 
 Exchange was laid by Prince Albert, on Monday, Jan. 17th, 1842, in the 
 mayoralty of Alderman Pirie ; the circumstances being recorded in a 
 Latin and English inscription upon a zinc plate, placed in the foundation- 
 stone. The Exchange was completed within the short space of three 
 years, for somewhat less than the architect's estimate, 137,600?. ; or, in- 
 cluding the sculpture, architect's commission, &c., 150,OOOZ. 
 
 The new Exchange was formally opened by Her Majesty Oct. 28, 1844, when 
 the Royal and Civic Processions joined within Temple Bar; the Aldermen in 
 gowns and chains, and the Lord-Mayor in a crimson velvet robe, collar, and 
 jewel, on horseback ; his Lordship bearing immediately before the Queen's 
 state-carriage the great pearl sword presented to the City of London by Queen 
 Elizabeth on her opening the first Exchange. The procession of 1844 was alto- 
 gether the most magnificent pageant of the present reign. At the Exchange, an 
 address was presented to the Queen, followed by a breakfast, distribution of com- 
 memorative medals, and a procession to the centre of the quadrangle, where the 
 Queen, surrounded by her Ministers and the City authorities, said : " It is my 
 Royal will and pleasure that this building be hereafter called ' The Royal Ex- 
 change.'" The event was commemorated with great civic festivity; and the 
 Lord Mayor, Magnay, received a patent of baronetcy. 
 
 The Royal Exchange first opened for business Jan. 1, 1845 ; stands 
 nearly due 'east and west ; extreme length, 308 feet; west width, 119 
 feet ; east, 175 feet. The foundation is concrete, in parts 18 feet thick ; 
 and the walls and piers are tied together by arches, the piers strength- 
 ened by beds of wrought-iron hooping. The foundation of Gresham's 
 Exchange was laid upon piles. 
 
 The architecture is florid, and even exuberant, characteristic of com- 
 mercial opulence and civic state. The leading idea of the plan is from 
 the Pantheon at Rome. The material is the finest Portland stone. 
 
 The West front has a portico " very superior in dimensions to any in 
 Great Britain, and not inferior to any in the world." It is 96 feet 
 wide and 74 high, and has eight columns (the architect's Composite), 
 4 feet 2 inches in diameter and 41 feet high, with two intercolumnia- 
 tions in actual projection, and the centre also deeply recessed ; the in- 
 terior of the portico is strikingly magnificent, in the vastness of the 
 columns, and the beauty of the roof of three arches, enriched after a 
 Roman palace. Flanking the central doorway are two lofty Venetian 
 windows, with the architect's monogram, "W. T., beneath. 
 
 On the frieze of the portico is inscribed : ANNO xm. ELIZABETHS R. CONDITVM. 
 ANNO vin. VICTORIA R. RESTAVRATVM. Over the central doorway are the 
 Royal arms, by Carew. The key-stone has the merchant's mark of Gresham ; 
 and the key-stones of the side arches, the arms of the merchant-adventurers of 
 
278 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 his day, and the staple of Calais. North and south of the portico, and in the 
 attic, are the City sword and mace, with the date of Queen Elizabeth's reign and 
 1844; and in the lower panels, mantles bearing the initials of Queen Elizabeth 
 and Queen Victoria respectively: the imperial crown is 12 inches in relief, and 
 7 feet high. The tympanum of the pediment of the portico is filled with sculpture, 
 hy Richard Westmacott, R.A. ; consisting of 17 figures, carved in limestone, 
 nearly ail entire and detached. The centre figure is Commerce, with her mural 
 crown, 10 feet high, upon two dolphins and a shell; she holds the charter of the 
 Exchange : on her right is a group of three British merchants, as lord-mayor, 
 alderman, and common-councilman; a Hindoo and a Mahommedan, a Greek 
 bearing ajar, and a Turkish merchant: on the left are two British merchants 
 and a Persian, a Chinese, a Levant sailor, a negro, a British sailor, and a super- 
 cargo : the opposite angles are filled with anchors, jars, packages, &c. Upon the 
 pedestal of Commerce, selected by Prince Albert, is this inscription: ' THE EARTH 
 is THE LORD'S, AND THE FULNESS THEREOF." Psalmxxiv. 1. The ascent to 
 the portico is by 13 granite steps. 
 
 The East front has four Composite columns, which support the 
 tower, in the first story of which is a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 14 feet 6 inches high, by Behnes ; above are the clock-faces ; and next 
 a circular story, with Composite columns and a dome carved in leaves, 
 surmounted by the original grasshopper vane, of copper gilt, 11 feet 
 long ; height of tower and vane, 177 feet. Beneath the tower is the 
 great eastern entrance to an oblong open area, where are the entrances 
 to Lloyd's and the Merchants' Area. 
 
 The Clock, constructed by Dent, with the assistance of the Astronomer- 
 Royal, is true to a second of time, and has a compensation-pendulum. The 
 Chimes consist of a set of fifteen bells, by Hears, coct 5001. ; the largest being also 
 the hour-bell of the clock. In the chime-work, by Dent, there are two hammers 
 to several of the bells, so as to play rapid passages ; and three and five hammers 
 strike different bells simultaneously. All irregularity of force is avoided by 
 driving the chime-barrel through wheels and pinions ; there are no wheels be- 
 tween the weight that pulls and the hammer to be raised; the lifts on the 
 chime-barrel are all epicycloidal curves ; and there are 6000 holes pierced upon 
 the barrel for the lifts, so as to allow the tunes to be varied : the present airs are, 
 " God save the Queen," " The Roast Beef of Old England," " Rule Britannia," 
 and the 104th Psalm. The bells, in substance, form, dimensions, &c., are from 
 the Bow-bells patterns; still, they are thought to be too large for the tower. The 
 chime-work is stated to be the first instance in England of producing harmony 
 in bells. 
 
 The South front has a line of pilasters, upon ground-floor rusticated 
 arches ; the three middle spaces deeply recessed, and having richly -em- 
 bellished windows, a cornice, balustrade, and attic. Above the three 
 centre arches are the Gresham, City, and Mercers' Company arms, 
 which are repeated on the east front entablature. 
 
 The North front has a projecting centre, and otherwise differs from 
 the south : in niches are statues of Sir Hugh Myddleton, by Joseph ; 
 and Sir Richard Whittington, by Carew. Over the centre arch is 
 Gresham's motto, Fortun a my ; on the dexter, the City motto, Dne. 
 dirige nos ; and on the sinister, the Mercers' Company, Honor Deo. 
 
 The principal or first floor has four suites of apartments : 1. 
 Lloyd's, east and north ; 2. Royal Exchange Assurance, west ; 3. Lon- 
 don Assurance Corporation, south ; 4. Offices originally intended for 
 Gresham College, south and west. 
 
 The ground-floor, externally, as in the two former Exchanges, is 
 occupied by shops and offices, each having a mezzanine and basement. 
 
 The Interior consists of the open Merchants' Area, resembling the 
 cortile of an Italian palace ; its form, as that of the building, is paral- 
 lelogram, and the inner area exactly a double square.* The grouiid- 
 
 * It is singular that the opportunity has not been taken of covering in the 
 Merchants' Area, every edifice of the kind erected within the last century being so 
 covered: as, the Royal Exchange, Dublin; the Bourse at Paris; the Exchange 
 at Hamburg ; that at New York; and the Birzha, or Exchange, at St. Petersburg. 
 
EXCHANGES : ROYAL EXCHANGE. 279 
 
 floor is a Doric colonnade, and rusticated arches ; the upper floor has 
 Ionic columns, with arches and windows, and an enriched parapet, 
 pierced. The key-stones of the upper arches are sculptured with na- 
 tional arms, in the order determined at the Congress of Vienna. The 
 Ambulatory, or merchants' walk, surrounding the area, has its tra- 
 beated and paneled ceiling, richly decorated and emblazoned with na- 
 tional arms, in encaustic, Italian and arabesque, by Sang ; but the 
 humidity of the London atmosphere has sadly dimmed their brilliancy. 
 In the four angles are the arms of Edward the Confessor, Edward III., 
 Queen Elizabeth, and Charles II. At the north-east angle is a statue 
 of Elizabeth, by Watson ; at the south-east, Gibbons's marble statue of 
 Charles II., formerly in the centre of the old Exchange ; nearly upon 
 the spot where is now a marble statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough : 
 the sovereigns in whose reigns the three Exchanges were built. 
 
 In panels of the Ambulatory are emblazoned the arms of the three mayors 
 (Pirie, Humphery, and Magnay), and of the three Masters of the Mercers' Com- 
 pany, in whose years of office the Exchange was erected. The arms of the 
 Chairman of the Gresham Committee, Mr. R. L. Jones, and of the architect, 
 Mr. Tite, complete the heraldic illustrations. The Yorkshire pavement of the 
 Ambulatory is panelled and bordered with black stone, and squares of red granite 
 at the intersections. The open area is paved with the traditional "Turkey stones" 
 from the old Exchange, in patterns, with red granite bands. 
 
 On the side-wall panels are the names of the walks, inscribed upon chocolate 
 tablets. In each of the larger compartments are the arms of the "walk" cor- 
 responding with the merchants'. As you enter the colonnade by the west, are the 
 arms of the British empire, with those of Austria on the right, and Bavaria on the 
 reverse side. Then in rotation are the arms of Belgium, France, Hanover, 
 Holland, Prussia, Sardinia, the Two Sicilies, Sweden and Norway, the United 
 States of America, the initials of the Sultan of Turkey, Spain, Saxony, Russia, 
 Portugal, Hanseatic Towns, Greece, and Denmark. On a marble panel in the 
 Merchants' Area are inscribed the dates of the building and opening of the three 
 Exchanges. 
 
 " Here are the same old-favoured spots, changed though they be in appearance ; 
 and notwithstanding we have lost the great Rothschild, Jeremiah Harman, Daniel 
 Hardcastle (the Page No. 1 of the Times), the younger Rothschilds occupy a 
 pillar on the south side of the Exchange, much in the same place as their father; 
 and the Barings, the Bateses, the Salomons, the Doxats, the Durrants, the 
 Crawshays, the Curries, and the Wilsons, and other influential merchants, still 
 come and go, as in olden days." (City, 2d edit.). Many sea-captains and brokers 
 still go on 'Change ; but the ' ' Walks" are disregarded. The hour of High 'Change 
 is from past 3 to past 4 P.M., the two great days being Tuesday and Friday for 
 foreign exchanges. 
 
 Lloyd's Subscription Rooms are approached by a fine Italian stair- 
 case ; the stairs are each a single block of Cragleith granite, 14 feet long. 
 In the vestibule is a marble statue of Prince Albert, by Lough ; a 
 marble statue, by Gibson, R.A., of the late Mr. Huskisson, presented 
 by his widow ; a mural testimonial to the Times' exposure of a fraudu- 
 lent conspiracy in 1851 ; and a monument to John Lydekker, Esq., who 
 bequeathed 58,OOOZ. to the Seamen's Hospital Society : it has figures of 
 disabled seamen, and a scene from the Southern Whale Fishery. 
 
 Lloyd's is the rendezvous of the most eminent merchants, ship- 
 owners, underwriters, insurance, stock, and exchange brokers, &c. 
 Here is obtained the earliest news of the arrival and sailing of vessels, 
 losses at sea, captures, re-captures, engagements, and other shipping 
 intelligence ; and the proprietors of ships and freights are insured by 
 the underwriters. 
 
 Lloyd's originated with a coffee-house keeper of that name, at the 
 corner of Abchurch-lane, Lombard-street : 
 " To Lloyd's Coffee-house, he never fails 
 
 To read the letters and attend the sales." Wealthy Shopkeeper, 1700. 
 In 1710 Steele dates from Lloyd's ( Tatler, No. 246) his Petition on 
 
280 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Coffee-house Orators and Newsvenders ; and Addison, in Spectator, 
 April 23, 1711, speaks of the auction -pulpit at Lloyd's : but the auction 
 business has been transferred to Garraway's Coffee-house. Lloyd's 
 was subsequently removed to Pope's Head-alley, and in 1774 to the 
 north-west corner of the Royal Exchange, where it remained until the 
 fire in 1838 ; the subscribers then met at the South-Sea House, till they 
 returned to their present location in the new Exchange. The rooms 
 are in the Venetian style, with Roman enrichments. They are 1. The 
 Subscribers' or Underwriters', the Merchants', and the Captains' Room. 
 The Subscribers' Room is 100 feet long by 48 feet wide, and is opened 
 at 10 o'clock and closed at 5 : annual subscription, four guineas ; if an 
 underwriter or insurance-broker, he pays also an entrance-fee of twenty- 
 five guineas; admission and questions determined by ballot, each under- 
 writer having his own seat. At the entrance of the room are exhi- 
 bited the Shipping Lists, received from Lloyd's agents at home and 
 abroad, and affording particulars of departures or arrivals of vessels, 
 wrecks, salvage, or sale of property saved, &c. To the right and left 
 are "Lloyd's Books," two enormous ledgers : right hand, ships "spoken 
 with," or arrived at their destined ports ; left hand, records of wrecks, 
 fires, or severe collisions, written in a fine Roman hand, in " double 
 lines." To assist the underwriters in their calculations, at the end of 
 the room is an Anemometer, which registers the state of the wind day 
 and night ; attached is a rain-gauge. 
 
 On the roof of the Exchange is a sort of mast, at the top of which is a fan, like that 
 of a windmill, the object of which is to keep a plate of metal with its face presented 
 to the wind. Attached to this plate are springs, which, joined to a rod, descend 
 into the Underwriters' Room upon a large sheet of paper placed against the wall. 
 To this end of the rod a lead-pencil is attached, which slowly traverses the paper 
 horizontally, by means of clock-work. When the wind blows very hard against 
 the plate outside, the spring, being pressed, pushes down the rod, and the pencil 
 makes a long line down the paper vertically, which denotes a high wind. At the 
 bottom of the sheet, another pencil moves, guided by a vane on the outside, which 
 so directs its course horizontally that the direction of the wind is shewn. The 
 sheet of paper is divided into squares, numbered with the hours of night and day; 
 and the clock-work so moves the pencils, that they take exactly an hour to traverse 
 each square : hence the strength and direction of the wind at any hour of the 
 twenty-four are easily seen. 
 
 The subscribers number about 1900; and, with the underwriters, re- 
 present the greater part of the mercantile wealth of the country. 
 (See City, 2d edit. pp. 108 to 122.) Above the Subscribers' Room is the 
 Chart-room, where hangs an extensive collection of maps and charts. 
 
 The Merchants' Room is superintended by a master, who can speak 
 several languages : here are duplicate copies of the books in the under- 
 writers' room, and files of English and foreign newspapers : annual sub- 
 scription, two guineas. 
 
 The Captains' Room is a kind of coffee-room, where merchants and 
 ship-owners meet captains, and sales of ships, &c. take place: annual 
 subscription, one guinea. 
 
 The members of Lloyd's have ever been distinguished by their loyalty and 
 benevolent spirit. In 1802, they voted 2000/. to the Life-boat subscription. On 
 July 20, 1803, at the invasion panic, they commenced the Patriotic Fund with 
 20,0002. 3-per-cent. consols; besides 70,312/. 7*. individual subscriptions, and 
 1 5.000/. additional donations. After the battle of the Nile, in 1798, they collected 
 for the widows and wounded seamen 32.423Z. ; and after Lord Howe's victory, 
 June 1, 1794, for similar purposes, 21,28K. They have also contributed 5000/. to 
 the London Hospital; WOOL for the suffering inhabitants of Russia in 1813; 
 1000J. for the relief of the militia in our North American colonies, 1813; and 
 10,0007. for the Waterloo subscription, in 1815. The Committee vote medals and 
 rewards to those who distinguish themselves in saving life from shipwreck. 
 
 Lloyd's Register of British and Foreign Shipping, No. 2 "White- 
 
EXCHANGES: COAL EXCHANGE. 281 
 
 ;Lion-court, Cornhill, was originally established in 1760, and re-esta- 
 ;blished in 1834, and gives the class and standing of vessels, date of 
 building and where built, materials, &c., ascertained by careful surveys; 
 'but is a distinct body from Lloyd's Subscription Rooms. 
 
 The entrance-gates in each front of the Exchange are fine specimens 
 
 | of iron-casting, bronzed. The western or principal gates, cast by 
 
 j Grissell, are 22 feet high, 11 feet 4 inches wide. The design is Eliza- 
 
 j bethan : on the flanks, and around the semicircle, are the shields of 
 
 j the twelve great City companies ; in the crown of the arch, Gresham's 
 
 j arms, and beneath is'his bust, upon a mural crown, backed by the civic 
 
 mace and sword ; on the panels are the arms of Elizabeth and Victoria. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the Exchange are the finest architectural objects in 
 
 the City. Northward is the Bank of England, an elaborately-enriched pile, very 
 
 picturesque in parts ; and beyond it are the palatial edifices of the Alliance and 
 
 Sun Insurance Offices. Westward is the Mansion House, in effect a massive Italian 
 
 j palace. Eastward is Royal Exchange-buildings, an enriched specimen of street- 
 
 I architecture. Before the Exchange portico is an equestrian statue of the Duke of 
 
 Wellington (the last work modelled by Chantrey), placed here by the citizens in 
 
 gratitude for the Government grant of 1,000,OOOZ. for improvements in their ancient 
 
 city. From this spot radiate Moorgate and Prince's-streets ; the former with 
 
 i Italian palazzo offices, less showy but of far better architectural character than 
 
 j Regent-street ; and King William-street, highly embellished, but more interesting 
 
 as leading to London-bridge, which contests with another structure across the 
 
 same stream the distinction of " the finest bridge in the world." 
 
 The cost of enlarging the site, including improvements and widening 
 of Cornhill, Freeman 's-court, Broad-street, and removal of the church of 
 St. Benet Fink, the French Protestant church, Bank-buildings, Sweet- 
 ing's-alley, &c., was 223,57SZ. Is. lOd. City Chamberlain's Return, 
 October 30, 1851. 
 
 " Sir Thomas Gresham left the Exchange during the life of his widow to her 
 use ; and at her death, he left his mansion in Threadneedle-street, since occupied 
 by the Excise Office, for a college, to be called Gresham College, as a London 
 University, the funds for its support being provided by the rents of the shops and 
 pawnes of the Exchange. By the Great Fire, this source of income was entirely 
 cut off; and not only so, but the two Corporations of the City of London and the 
 Mercers' Company incurred a debt of nearly 60,OOOZ. in rebuilding the Exchange. 
 They, notwithstanding, out of their own resources continued the College until 
 the year 1745, when the debt amounted to lll.OOOZ. In 1768, the College was 
 put an end to by an Act of Parliament, and the site let to the Commissioners of 
 Excise. The Gresham Professors were always continued, and gave their lectures 
 in a room in the Exchange up to the fire of 1838. The Gresham Committee have, 
 from their own funds, rebuilt Gresham College, in Gresham-street, at an expense 
 of upwards cf 15,00()Z. ; and the debt incurred by the two Corporations, in main- 
 taining the Exchange and rebuilding it twice, in maintaining the Gresham Pro- 
 fessors, and some almshouses founded also by Sir Thomas Gresham, amounts 
 now to considerably more than 200.000/." W. Tile, F.R.S. 
 
 A large medal, by "VVyon, R. A., bears on the obverse Lough's statue 
 of the Queen in profile ; on the reverse is a bust in high relief of 
 Gresham, in the cap and starched frill of his period. 
 
 COA.L EXCHANGE. Three hundred years ago, when the use of coal 
 instead of wood had only just commenced in the metropolis, two or 
 three ships were enough for the supply. A charter of Edward II. 
 shews Derbyshire coal to have been then used in London, though a 
 proclamation of Edward 1. shews its introduction as a substitute for 
 wood to have been much opposed ; and in the reign of Elizabeth, the 
 burning of stone-coal was prohibited during the sitting of Parliament, 
 lest it should affect the health of the members. 
 
 The " Coal Exchange," up to 1807, was in the hands of private in- 
 dividuals; in that year it was purchased by the Corporation for 25,600Z. 
 In 1845, the coal-trade petitioned for the enlargement and rebuilding 
 
282 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of the Exchange. This was done by the City architect, J. B. Bunning ; 
 and the new Exchange was opened with great eclat, by Prince Albert, 
 accompanied by the Prince of Wales and the Princess" Royal, Oct. 29, 
 1849; when the Lord Mayor (Duke), himself a coal-merchant, received 
 a patent of baronetcy. The Exchange has two principal fronts of Port- 
 land stone, in the Italian style, one in Lower Thames- street, and the 
 other in St. Mary -at- Hill ; with an entrance at the corner by a semi- 
 circular portico, with Roman-Doric columns, and a tower 106 feet high, 
 within which is the principal staircase. The public hall, or area for the 
 merchants, is a rotunda 60 feet in diameter, covered by a glazed dome, 
 74 feet from the floor. This circular hall has three tiers of projecting 
 galleries running round it ; the stancheons, galleries, ribs of dome, &c. 
 are iron, of which about 300 tons are used. 
 
 The floor of the rotunda is composed of 4000 pieces of inlaid woods, 
 in the form of a mariner's compass, within a border of Greek fret ; in 
 the centre is the City shield, anchor, &c. ; the dagger-blade in the arms 
 being a piece of a mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Great, when he 
 worked as a shipwright in Deptford dockyard. 
 
 The entrance vestibule is richly embellished with vases of fruit, ara- 
 besque foliage, terminal figures, &c. In the rotunda, between the 
 Raphaelesque scroll supports, are panels painted with impersonations of 
 the coal-bearing rivers of England : the Thames, Mersey, Severn, Trent, 
 Humber, Aire, Tyne, &c. ; and above them, within flower-borders, are 
 figures of Wisdom, Fortitude, Vigilance, Temperance, Perseverance, 
 Watchfulness, Justice, and Faith. The arabesques in the first story are 
 views of coal-mines : Wallsend, Percy Pit-Main, Regent's Pit, &c. 
 The second and third story panels are painted with miners at work; 
 and the twenty-four ovals at the springing of the dome have upon a 
 turquoise blue ground figures of fossil plants found in coal-formations. 
 The minor ornamentation is flowers, shells, snakes, lizards, and other 
 reptiles, and nautical subjects. The whole is in polychrome, by Sang. 
 The gallery-fronts and other iron- work are cable pattern. The cost of 
 the enlarged site, the building, and approaches, was 91,167 1. lls. 8d. 
 
 In a basement on the east side of the Exchange are the remains of 
 a Roman bath, in excellent preservation, discovered in excavating the 
 foundations of the new building; and there is a convenient access to 
 this interesting relic of Roman London. 
 
 About the year 1550 one or two ships sufficed for the coal-trade of London ; in 
 1615, ahout 200; in 1705, about 600; and in 1845, 2695 ships. The increase in 
 the importation during ten years, from 1838 to 1848, when the respective impor- 
 tations were 2,518,085 tons and 3,418,340 tons, was upwards of 90 per cent. Now, 
 by taking 2700 vessels as the actual number employed, each averaging 300 tons 
 burden, and giving to a vessel of that size a crew of eight men, it will appear thiat 
 21,600 seamen were then employed in the carrying department of the London 
 coal- trade. 
 
 The price of coals as given in the London markets in the daily newspapers is 
 the price up to the time when the coals are whipped from the ship to the mer- 
 chant's barges. It includes: 1st, the value of the coals at the pit's mouth; 2d, 
 the expense of transit from the pit to the ship ; 3d, the freight of the ship to 
 London ; 4th, the Thames dues ; and 5th, the whipping. The emptied coal-ships 
 are ballasted to Newcastle with gravel or sand dredged up from Woolwich Reach ; 
 so that to say this is carrying the bed of the Thames to the banks of the Tyne has 
 a per-centage of truth in it. 
 
 About 12,000 persons are engaged in mining and shipping coals for London; 
 22,000 in navigating the coal-ships from the North to the Thames; 2000 in whip- 
 ping ; and 1000 in selling the coals to the consumers in London ; besides coal- 
 bargemen upon the Thames and canals, coal-heavers at the wharfs, and coal- 
 wagoners in the streets. The carriage of coals by railway is already very consi- 
 derable. 
 
 COKN EXCHANGE (the), Mark-lane, was established in 1747, when 
 
EXCHANGES: KING'S; NEW. 283 
 
 (the present system of factorage commenced. It consists of an open Doric 
 icolonnade, within which the factors have their stands ; it resembles the 
 atrium, or place of audience, in a Pompeian house ; with its impluvium, 
 the place in the centre in which the rain fell. ( W. H. Leeds.} In 1827-8, 
 adjoining was built a second Corn Exchange (G. Smith, architect) : it 
 has a central Grecian-Doric portico, surmounted by the imperial arms 
 |and agricultural emblems ; the ends have corresponding pilasters. Here 
 jlightermen and granary-keepers have stands, as well as corn -merchants, 
 factors, and millers ; the seed-market is in another part of the building. 
 " This is the only metropolitan market for corn, grain, and seeds. The market- 
 days are Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; hours, ten to three. Wheat is paid 
 for in bills at one month, and other corn and grain in bills at two months. The 
 JKentish "hoymen," distinguishable by their sailor's jackets, have stands free of 
 (expense, and pay less for metage and dues than others ; and the Essex dealers 
 jenjoy some privileges: in both cases said to be in consideration of the men of 
 Kent and Essex having continued to supply the city when it was ravaged by the 
 Plague." Knight's London, vol. iii. p. 365. 
 
 KING'S EXCHANGE (the), "for the receipt of bullion to be coined," 
 was in Old Exchange, now Old 'Change, Cheapside. 
 
 " It was here that one of those ancient officers, known as the King's Ex- 
 changer, was placed ; whose duty it was to attend to the supply of the Mints 
 with bullion, to distribute the new coinage, and to regulate the exchange of 
 foreign coin. Of these officers there were anciently three : two in London, at 
 the Tower and Old Exchange, and one in the city of Canterbury. Subsequently, 
 (another was appointed with an establishment in Lombard-street, the ancient 
 j rendezvous of the merchants ; and it appears not improbable that Queen Eliza- 
 beth's intention was to have removed this functionary to what was pre-eminently 
 designated by her ' the Royal Exchange,' and hence the reason for the change 
 of the name of this edifice by Elizabeth." JF. Tite, F.R.S. 
 
 No. 36 Old 'Change was formerly the " Three Morrice-Dancers" 
 public-house, with the three figures sculptured on a stone as the sign 
 and an ornament, temp. James I. : the house was taken down about 
 1801 : there is an etching of this very characteristic sign-stone. 
 
284 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sempstress, Frances Jennings, the reduced Duchess of Tyreonnel, wife 
 to Richard Talbot, lord-deputy of Ireland under James'll. : she sup- 
 ported herself for a few days (till she was known, and otherwise pro- 
 vided for) by the little trade of this place : to avoid detection, she sat 
 in a white mask and a white dress, and was therefore known as " the 
 white widow."* 
 
 Another romantic story is told of the place. In November 1653, a 
 quarrel having arisen in the public walk of the Exchange between 
 M. Gerard (at that time engaged in a plot against Cromwell) and Don 
 Pantaleon Sa (brother to the Portuguese ambassador), the latter next 
 day came to the Exchange, accompanied by assassins, who mistaking 
 another person, then walking with his brother and mistress, for M. 
 Gerard, seized upon him, and stabbed him to death with their poniards. 
 For this crime Don Pantaleon was condemned to death; and, by a 
 strange coincidence, he suffered on the same scaffold with M. Gerard, 
 whose plot had been discovered. 
 
 The Exchange latterly became famous for its exhibitions of wax- 
 work, and for a "magnificent stock of English and foreign china kept for 
 sale ; but by the intrigues, assignations, and indecent licenses of the 
 fops with the milliners, the place lost its character, was little re- 
 sorted to after the death of Queen Anne, and in 1737 was taken down, 
 and the site covered with houses; but the name is retained in Exchange- 
 court opposite. 
 
 In the Strand, exactly opposite Ivy Bridge, (a short distance east of the New- 
 Exchange site,) Thomas Parr, the "olde olde man," had lodgings, when he came 
 to London to be shewn as a curiosity to Charles I. The authority for this fact is 
 a Mr. Greening, who in the 3 r ear 1814, being then about 90 years of age, men- 
 tioned it to the author, saying that he perfectly well remembered, when a boy, 
 having been shewn the house by his grandfather, then 88 years of age. The 
 house, which stood at the commencement of the present century, had been known 
 for more than 50 years as the " Queen's Head" public-house. Smith's Streets of 
 London, edit. 1849, p. 145. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, the heart of "the Bank for the whole world'* 
 (Rothschild), is in Capel-court, Bartholomew-lane, facing the eastern 
 front of the Bank of England. It has four entrances : from Capel- 
 court ; Shorter's-court and New-court, Throgmorton-street ; and Her- 
 cules-court, Broad-street. The speculators in stock, who greatly in- 
 creased with the National Debt, hitherto met at Jonathan's Coffee- 
 house, Change-alley ; then at a room in Threadneedle-street, admission 
 6d. ; and bargains in stocks were next made in the Bank rotunda. In 
 1801, the present building was commenced by subscription (James 
 Peacock, architect), in Capel-court, the site of the offices and residence of 
 Sir William Capel, lord mayor in 1504. The inscription placed beneath 
 the foundation-stone states, '-'at this era the public funded debt had 
 accumulated in five successive reigns to 552,730,924 ;" adding propitia- 
 torily, " the inviolate faith of the British nation, and the principles of 
 the constitution, sanction and secure the property embarked in this 
 undertaking. May the blessing of that constitution be secured to the 
 latest posterity !" The building was opened March 1802 ; and in 1822 
 the business in the foreign funds was removed here from the Royal 
 Exchange. 
 
 The number of members (stock-brokers, bullion, bill and discount, rail- 
 way and other share brokers.) has varied from 1000 to 400; annual subscrip- 
 tion, 10/. There are three branches, or houses: the English, for stocks and 
 Exchequer-bills ; the foreign, for stocks ; and the railway or share market, a market 
 for mining shares being added in 1850. In New-court are fireproof safes for 
 
 * This anecdote was ingeniously dramatised by Mr. Douglas Jerrold, and 
 produced at Covent Garden Theatre, in 1840, as " The White Milliner." 
 
EXCHANGES: STOCK EXCHANGE. 285 
 
 keeping securities. Lists are daily published of the prices of stocks and shares, 
 and twice a-week of bullion and foreign exchanges. The admission is by ballot, 
 as is also the election of the Stock-Exchange Committee of 28, who have absolute 
 power to expel, suspend, or reprimand. Every new member of the "House" 
 must be introduced by three members, each giving 300J. security for two years. 
 JEach member, as well as the Committee, has to meet the probation of re-election 
 I every Lady-day. A bankrupt ceases to be a member, and cannot be re-admitted 
 I unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound beyond that collected from his debtors. The 
 | names of defaulters are posted on the " black board," and they are termed " lame 
 j ducks ;" this rule was established in 1787, when twenty-five " lame ducks waddled 
 out of the Alley." To avoid a libel, the notice runs thus : " Any person transacting 
 business with A. B. is requested to communicate with C. D." Only members 
 are allowed to transact business at the Stock Exchange, as notified at each en- 
 trance ; and strangers who stray in are quickly hustled out; but a view of the 
 Exchange can be obtained through the glass-doors in the entrance from Hercules- 
 court. The brokers usually deal with the jobbers ; and among the Exchange 
 cries are, " Borrow money 2" "What are Exchequer?" " Five with me," "Ten 
 with me," making up a strange Babel. " A thousand pounds' consols at 96f -96 ." 
 ("Take 'em at 96^," is the vociferous reply of a buyer:) "Mexican at 27^-27; 
 Portuguese fours at 32^-32^; Spanish fives at 21; Dutch two-and-halfs at 50- 
 50^ :" and so on till the hour for closing strikes. Railway companies and bankers 
 often lend large sums, and bankers are sometimes borrowers, as are also the Bank 
 of England and the Ea&t India Company. The charge by a broker for buying and 
 j selling English stock is 2*. 6d. per cent. The fluctuations in the rate of interest 
 enjoin " watching the turn of the market;" for, on the same day, money has been 
 lent at 4 per cent in the morning, and at 2 o'clock could scarcely be borrowed at 
 10 per cent. 
 
 The Stock Exchange has had its vocabulary of terms for more than 
 a century traceable to the early transactions in the stock of the East 
 India Company. 
 
 A Bull is one who speculates for a rise ; whereas a Bear is he who speculates 
 for a fall. The Bull would, lor instance, buy 100,OOOZ. consols for the account, 
 with the object of selling them again during the intervening time at a higher 
 price. The Bear, on the contrary, would sell the 100,0<M. stock (which, however, 
 he does not possess,) for the same time, with the view of buying them in and 
 balancing the transaction at a lower price than that at which he originally sold 
 them. It' Consols fall, the Bull finds himself on the wrong side of the hedge ; 
 and if they rise, the poor Bear is compelled to buy in his stock at a sacrifice. 
 The City, 2d edit. 
 
 Lord Chatham designated stock-jobbers "the cannibals of Change- 
 alley." " To me, my lords," he once said, " whether they be miserable 
 jobbers of Change-alley or the lofty Asiatic plunderers of Leadenhall- 
 street, they are equally detestable." 
 
 The Stock Exchange has many startling episodes of fraud and 
 panic, rise and ruin. Speculation often produces permanent benefit to 
 the public : to the fever of 1807 and 1808, London owes Vauxhall and 
 Waterloo Bridges. Late in Napoleon's career the funds varied 8 and 10 
 per cent within an hour; but the immediate effect of the battle of Water- 
 loo news on the funds was only 3 per cent : the decrease of the public 
 expenditure was two millions per month. At the panic of 1825, which 
 more affected the public funds than did the news of Napoleon's escape 
 from Elba, the entrance to the Stock Exchange became so choked up, 
 that a fine of 51. was imposed upon each person who stopped the way. 
 Pigeon-expresses for the earliest intelligence are chiefly worked from 
 May to September ; the birds generally used are of the Antwerp breed, 
 strong on the wing, and fully feathered : they are, however, likely to 
 be superseded by the electric telegraph. Exchequer-bills let in fraud 
 the year after their creation. The last fraud in Exchequer-bills was 
 that committed by Beaumont Smith, chief clerk in the Audit Office, and 
 the victim of Rapallo, an Italian jobber ; and it was stated on the trial 
 of Smith at the Old Bailey, that Rapallo provided the funds for the 
 
286 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Boulogne expedition of Prince Louis Napoleon against the government 
 of Louis Philippe ! 
 
 Political hoaxes, from the reported death of Queen Anne to the 
 fraud of 1814, in which Lord Cochrane was implicated, chequer the 
 Stock-Exchange chronicles ; and victims flit about its gates from the 
 Goldsmids whose credit was whispered away by envy, to the poor 
 Miss Whitehead, whose wits were turned to melancholy by the forge- 
 ries of her brother. The recollection of large loans raised here re- 
 minds one of the mighty power which reigns supreme on this very spot, 
 once the most opulent part of Roman London. 
 
 "The warlike power of every country depends on their Three-per-Cents. If 
 Caesar were to re-appear on earth, Wettenhall's List would be more important 
 than his Commentaries ; Rothschild would open and shut the Temple of Janus; 
 Thomas Baring, or Bates, would probably command the Tenth Legion ; and the 
 soldiers would march to battle with loud cries of 'Scrip and Omnium reduced!' 
 ' Consols and Caesar !' " Rev. Sydney Smith. 
 
 The most remarkable man among the Stockbrokers of our time was the late 
 Mr. Francis Baily, F.R.S., the astronomer, who retired'from the Stock-Exchange, 
 in 1825. In 1838, in the garden of his house, Tavistock-place. Russell-square, was 
 constructed a small observatory, wherein Mr. Baily repeated the "Cavendish 
 experiment," the government having granted 500/. towards the expense of the 
 apparatus, &c. This is the building in which the earth was weighed, and its bulk 
 and figure calculated; the standard measure of the British nation perpetuated, 
 and the pendulum experiments rescued from their chief source of inaccuracy. 
 Mr. Baily died President of the Astronomical Society in 1844. 
 
 EXCHEQUER-TALLIES. 
 
 The Receipt of Exchequer at Westminster, the most ancient revenue 
 department of the State, with all its antiquated machinery of tallies and 
 checks, was not abolished until the year 1834 ; when a new office for the 
 payment of pensions and public moneys, and the receipt of revenue, was 
 opened at the Bank of England. By the statute of 23 Geo. III. 
 cap. 82, however, indented check receipts were issued from the Tally 
 Court instead of tallies, which, as instruments of loan, declined with the 
 growth of Exchequer Bills. In the accompanying woodcut is shewn 
 
 an Exchequer Tally, date 1810. The length of the original is 22| inches, 
 and its extreme width of an inch : notches are cut in its edge to de- 
 note the reckoning, and from the cross-line in the lower part has been 
 stripped off the counter-tally, cutting the date-line of the transaction 
 written on the edge ; so that identity consisted not only in the wood 
 fitting, but in the halved date and notches corresponding, like a halved 
 bank-note. The specimen before us is of elm, and roughly cleft. 
 
 " From his rug the skew'r he takes, 
 And on the stick ten equal notches makes ; 
 With just resentment flings it on the ground, 
 There, take my tally of ten thousand pound." Swift. 
 As one of the Exchequer apartments at Westminster was filled 
 with the old tallies in 1834, it became advisable to destroy them; and 
 an order was issued from the Board of Works to burn these ancient 
 relics, although persons curious in such matters would have purchased 
 bundles of them for museums and collections. The tallies were, accord- 
 ingly, burnt in the principal stove of the House of Lords ; and to the 
 consequent overheating of the flues proceeding in every direction from 
 the stove through the wood- work of the House, on October 16, 1834, 
 nearly the whole of both Houses of Parliament was consumed by fire. 
 Pepys, in assembling his worldly wealth at the alarm at the Great Fire of 
 
EXETER HALL. 287 
 
 ! 16(56, got ready to carry away his bags of gold, his chief papers of accounts, and 
 
 1 put his " tallies into a box by themselves." 
 
 " Under the early loan acts, tallies were delivered to the first contractors. When 
 
 j a sale was effected, the name of the purchaser was indorsed on the tally, and 
 
 jthen entered into the government books, for the convenience of paying the divi- 
 dends to the right person. This clumsy machinery was afterwards abolished ; 
 but though in 1717 the transfers and dividends of the National Debt were first 
 undertaken by the Bank, it was not until 1783 that the present mode of transfer 
 was adopted." Francis's Chronicles and Characters of the Stock Exchange, p. 148. 
 
 EXETER HALL, 
 
 No. 372, on the north side of the Strand, alarge proprietary establishment, 
 was commenced in 1829 (Gandy Deering, architect), and was originally 
 intended for religious and charitable Societies, and their meetings. It 
 has a narrow frontage in the Strand, but the premises extend in the rear 
 nearly from Burleigh-street to Exeter-street. The Strand entrance is 
 Graeco-Corinthian, and has two columns and pilasters, and the word 
 *IAAAEA$ON (Loving Brothers) sculptured in the attic. A double 
 staircase leads to the Great Hall, beneath which are a smaller one, and 
 passages leading to the offices of several Societies. 
 
 The Great Hall, opened in 1831, is now used for the " May Meet- 
 ings" of religious societies, and for the Sacred Harmonic Society's and 
 other concerts. This Hall has been twice enlarged, is now 131 ft. 
 6 in. long, 76 ft. 9 in. wide, and 45 ft. high, and will accommodate up- 
 wards of 3000 persons. At the east end is an organ and orchestra, 
 the property of the Sacred Harmonic Society ; at the west end is a 
 large gallery, extending partly along the sides; and on the floor are 
 seats rising in part amphitheatrically ; and a platform for the speakers, 
 with a large carved chair. 
 
 In 1850 the area of the hall was lengthened nearly forty feet ; the flat-panelled 
 ceiling was also removed, and a coved one inserted, without disturbing the slating 
 in the roof: S. W. Daukes, architect. To the principals were attached \\rought- 
 iron girders, circular on the under side, composed ot plates of boiler-iron, with 
 angle-irons and stifthers, and strips to cover the joints. These girders were raised 
 into the roof in pieces, and supported from the tie-beams till they were fastened 
 together with 2500 red-hot rivets, a furnace being erected in the roof. Each 
 girder was weighted with seven tons, and thus bolted to the timber principal. 
 The ends of the girders were supported upon sliding plates of smooth and greased 
 iron allixed to the wall-plate, so as to allow of the spread corresponding to the 
 deflection (] inch) of the arched iron, without affecting the walls: the extent 
 of the spread being 1^ inch at each end. There are two stronger independent iron 
 
 | girders weighing about nine tons each, and nine smaller ones, all properly icsted. 
 The whole of the iron-work being fixed, the original tie-beams and other tim- 
 
 | bers (which had been used as scaffolding for the furnace and riveters) were cut 
 away to the edge of the curved iron girders, and the ceiling joists and boarding 
 were then attached to the iron flanges. Nearly eighty tons of iron have been 
 introduced into the roof, which, with the new ceiling, is one-third less weight 
 than the original roof. 
 
 The ceiling has gained 15 feet in height at the ends, and 12 feet in 
 the centre ; and the sound and ventilation are much improved. The 
 Orchestra is on the acoustic principle successfully adopted by Mr. 
 Costa at the Philharmonic Society ; it is 76 feet wide, 11 feet more 
 than the Birmingham Town-Hall. Every member has a view of the 
 conductor; the organ-player sees his baton in a glass, among the pha- 
 lanx of instrumentalists 16 double-basses, 16 violoncellos, 82 first and 
 second violins and violas, besides the wood and brass bands and colossal 
 drums. The band and choir number 800. The works of Handel, 
 Haydn, and Mozart are here given with mighty effect ; and Spohr and 
 Mendelssohn have here conducted their own productions. 
 
 The Organ, built by Walker in 1840, is 30 feet wide and 40 feet 
 high : it has 2187 pipes; the longest are 20 feet from the base, diame- 
 
288 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDOX. 
 
 ter 15 inches, weight of each 4 cwt. ; in gilding one-half of each pipe 
 750 leaves of gold were used : there are three rows of keys, and two 
 octaves of pedals. 
 
 From April to the end of May, various societies hold their anniver- 
 sary meetings at Exeter Hall. The smaller hall holds about 1000 
 persons, and a third hall 250, Haydon has painted the Meeting of 
 Anti-Slavery Delegates in the Great Hall, June 12, 1840, under the 
 presidency of the venerable Thomas Clarkson, then in his 81st year. 
 On June 1, 1840, Prince Albert presided in the Great Hall at the first 
 public meeting of the Society for the Extinction of the Slave Trade, the 
 Prince's first appearance at any public meeting in England. 
 
 Exeter Hall, with its various religious and benevolent aggregations, 
 is one field with many encampments of distinct tribes. " Wesleyan, 
 Church, Baptist missionary societies, all maintain a certain degree of 
 reserve towards each other, all are jealous of the claims of rival sects, 
 and yet all are attracted by a common sense of religious earnestness. 
 The independent and often mutually repelling bodies who congregate 
 in Exeter Hall are one in spirit, with all their differences. AVithout a 
 pervading organisation, they are a church." Spectator newspaper. 
 
 Mr. Hullah's system of popular singing was formerly illustrated 
 here, when 2000 pupils combined their voices in the performances. 
 The Great Hall is let for 30Z. per night, lighting included. The rental 
 in the year ending April 1849 was 4181?. 
 
 EXETER HOUSE AND EXETER 'CHANGE. 
 
 Exeter 'Change is now only kept in remembrance by a clock-dial, 
 inscribed with its name in place of figures, upon the attic-front of the 
 house No. 353, eastward of the 'Change site, on the north side of the 
 Strand. Here was formerly the parsonage-house of the parish of St. 
 Martin, with a garden, and a close for the parson's horse; till Sir 
 Thomas Palmer (temp. Edward VI.) obtained it by composition, and 
 began to build here " a magnificent house of brick and timber" (Stow). 
 But upon his attainder for high treason (1 Queen Mary), the property 
 reverted to the Crown, and so remained until Queen Elizabeth pre- 
 sented it to Sir William Cecil, lord treasurer, and the great Lord Bur- 
 leigh (properly Burghley), who completed the mansion, with four 
 square turrets; whence it was called Cecil House and Burleigh House, 
 and afterwards Exeter House, from the son of the great statesman 
 Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter. The mansion fronted the Strand, and 
 extended from the garden-wall of AVimbledon House (on the site of 
 D'Oyley's warehouse) to a green lane, the site of the present South- 
 ampton-street, westward. Queen Elizabeth visited Lord Burleigh at 
 Exeter House ; and here his obsequies were celebrated by a lying-in- 
 state.* In the chapel attached, the pious John Evelyn, on Christmas-day 
 1657, was seized by the soldiers of the Commonwealth for having observed 
 "the superstitious time of the Nativity," and was temporarily shut 
 up in Exeter House. Here lived the firs't Earl of Shaftesbury, and here 
 was born his grandson, who wrote the Characteristics. After the Great 
 Fire of 1666, the courts of Doctors' Commons were held in Exeter 
 House until 1672. 
 
 EXETER CHANGE was built as a sort of bazaar, by Dr. Barbon, a 
 speculator in houses, temp. William and Mary, when Exeter House 
 was taken down ; and probably some of the old materials were used 
 
 * Burghley died at Theobalds, Aug. 4, 1598, where the body lay. Hentzner, 
 however, states that when he called to see Theobalds at Cheshunt, there was 
 " nobody to shew the palace, as the family was in town attending the funeral of 
 their lord." 
 
FASHIONS, OLD, IN DRESS. 289 
 
 for the 'Change, including a pair of large Corinthian columns at the 
 
 j eastern end. (See a View, by G. Cooke.) About the same time, Exeter- 
 
 i street was erected. The 'Change extended from the house No. 352 to the 
 
 | site of the present Burleigh-street : it projected into the Strand, the 
 
 northern foot-thoroughfare of which lay through the shops or stands 
 
 of the lower floor, first occupied by sempsters, milliners, hosiers, &c. 
 
 The body of the poet Gay lay in state in an upper room of the 
 'Change: here, too, were upholsterers 'shops, the offices of Law's Land 
 Bank, auction-rooms, &c. Cutlery then became the merchandise of the 
 lower floor, where one Clark, a cutler, accumulated a vast fortune. 
 
 Thomas Clark, "the King of Exeter 'Change," took a stall here in 1765 with 1001. 
 lent him by a stranaer. By parsimony and trade he grew so rich, that he once 
 
 j returned his income at 60001. a year; and long before his death, in 1816, he had 
 rented the whole ground-floor of the 'Change. He left nearly half a million of 
 money, and one of his daughters married Mr. Hamlet, the celebrated jeweller. 
 
 The upper rooms of Exeter 'Change were occupied as a menagerie 
 successively by Pidcock, Polito, and Cross ; admission to Pidcock*s, in 
 1810, 2s. Gd. " The roar of the lions and tigers could be distinctly 
 heard in the street, and often frightened horses in the roadway. Dur- 
 ing Cross's tenancy, in 1826, Chunee, the stupendous elephant shewn 
 here since 1809, in an oak den which cost 35QL, was shot, and his skin 
 
 j sold for 501. ; his skeleton, sold for 100/., is now at the College of 
 Surgeons. (See MUSEUMS.) Cross's menagerie was removed in 1828 
 to the King's Mews, Charing-cross ; and Exeter 'Change was entirely 
 taken down in 1829. 
 
 EXCISE OFFICE (THE), 
 
 Old Broad-street, (Dance,, sen., architect), occupies the site of Gresham 
 College, which the Gresham Trustees sold, in 1768, to the Crown for 
 a perpetual rent of 500/. per annum; when 18,000*. was also paid out 
 of the Gresham fund to the Commissioners towards pulling down 
 the College, and building an Excise Office! (Burgon.) The business 
 was removed in 1848 to the Inland Revenue Office, Somerset House. 
 In the court-yard of the Broad-street Excise Office, a temporary Ex- 
 change was put up for the merchants in 1838 ; and was used during the 
 rebuilding of the Royal Exchange. (See GRKSHAM COLLEGE, p. 209.) 
 The Excise system was established by the Long Parliament, in 1643, 
 to raise funds for the war against the King ! The Commissioners first 
 sat in Haberdashers' Hall, and then at their office in Smithfield, which 
 was taken down in 1647, the mob carrying off the materials in triumph. 
 
 I In 1680, the office was at Cockaigne House, formerly the mansion of 
 Eliab, the brother of Dr. William Harvey, the discoverer of the Circula- 
 tion of the Blood. Thence the Excise Office was removed to Sir John 
 
 j Frederick's mansion, on the site of Frederick's-place, Old Jewry ; and 
 then to Broad-street. 
 
 FASHIONS, OLD, IN DRESS. 
 
 The mutability of dress is proverbial ; but Old Fashions are retained 
 among Londoners to a far greater extent than one would at first ima- 
 gine. Thus, " the whole dress of the boys of Christ's Hospital is the 
 costume of the citizens of London at the time of the foundation of that 
 charity by Edward VI. Blue coats were the common habit of ap- 
 prentices and serving-men, and yellow stockings were very generally 
 worn at this period. The jackets of our firemen and watermen are 
 also of this date ; the badge being made in metal and placed on the 
 
290 CUMOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sleeve in the sixteenth century, instead of embroidered on the breast 
 or back of the garment itself as previously." Planche's History of 
 British Costume, p. 252. 
 
 The Yeomen of the Guard, royal beef-eaters (buffetiers), wear the 
 dress of private soldiers of the time of Henry VII., with some variation; 
 but it has continued unaltered since at least the reign of Charles II., in 
 the scarlet embroidered tunic, the red stockings, the parti -coloured 
 shoe-bows, the stiff white ruff; and the black velvet cap with its circlet 
 of red, blue, and white ribbon knots. 
 
 " The London charity-school girls wear the plain mob-cap and long 
 gloves of the time of Queen Anne. In the brass badge of the cab and 
 omnibus men we see a retention of the dress of the Elizabethan retain- 
 ers ; while the shoulder-knots that once decked an officer now adorn a 
 footman. He alone carries the cane which was borne by ladies and 
 physicians in our time. (Several canes are preserved in the College 
 of Physicians, in Pali-Mall East; and one of the last who bore a gold- 
 headed cane was the late Dr. Baillie.) The sailors' dress of the era of 
 "William III. is now seen amongst our fishermen. The University dress 
 is as old as the age of the Snr.thfield martyrs. The liuen bands" of the 
 pulpit and the bar are abridgments of the falling collar. The butchers' 
 blue is a guild uniform." Notes and Queries, No. 82. 
 
 Wilkes wore a flap-waistcoat of scarlet and gold ; and Murphy, the 
 dramatist, a good deal later, a suit of the like fashion, and a 'large 
 cocked hat. The fashion of scarlet coat, flap-waistcoat, and frilled 
 sleeves, survived into this century. The last man in London who is be- 
 lieved to have worn this costume was a quack-doctor, who lived in a 
 corner-house of Salisbury-square, and who might be seen any day pacing 
 the pavement in front of his establishment, until he took to his bed and 
 died of extreme old age. Mr. Pitt usually wore a blue coat, buckskin 
 breeches, and boots, round hat, with powder and pig-tail. Mr. Fox had 
 been a beau in his youth, but lived to be Quaker-like as to dress, with 
 plain coloured clothes, a broad round hat, and white stockings. 
 
 What will not fashion do to gratify her ever- changing conceits ? she 
 has even ransacked the tombs for a ""new pattern," in the starched frill 
 and flounce of the shroud, known as pinking: this has been sold to 
 our belles by the furnishing undertakers of the metropolis, whose trade 
 thus lay almost as much among the living as the dead. 
 
 The Dandy belongs to our times. The reigns of Queen Anne 
 and the two Georges could furnish no type of him ; he was unknown 
 to Addison, Fielding, Smollett, Hogarth ; unless we date him from 
 Colly Gibber's Lord Foppington, reproduced by Sheridan. 
 
 Plant Badges. \n London, the Welsh (but "chiefly the members of 
 clubs) wear leeks on St. David's day (March 1), from the leek being as- 
 sumed as a badge after the battle of Bosworth-field, won by Henry VII., 
 who had many Welshmen, his countrymen, in his army. The Irish wear 
 the shamrock on St. Patrick's day (March 17), in honour of that saint, 
 who is said to have advocated the Trinity by plucking a leaf of the 
 plant, and shewing it to contain three in one. The statue of Charles I. 
 is no longer dressed with oak-branches on Restoration-day (May 29); 
 but the tomb of the Pendrells in St. Giles's churchyard is so decorated 
 on this day, the custom having been revived in 1835. Laurel is worn 
 by the Foot-Guards on the 18th of June, in memory of Waterloo. 
 
 FETTER-LAXE, 
 
 Fleet-street, eastward of St. Dunstan's Church, extending to Holborn 
 Hill, " is so called of fewters (or idle people) lying tliere, as in a way 
 leading to gardens" (Stow) ; but when he wrote " it was built through 
 
FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS. 291 
 
 i on both sides with many fair houses." Here lived the leatherseller of 
 i the Revolution, " Praise God Barebones," and his brother, " Damned 
 j Barebones," both in the same house. In No. 16, over Fleur-de-lis court, 
 j Dryden is said to have lived ; but not by his biographers. At the right- 
 hand corner of Fleur-de-lis court, the infamous Mrs. Brownrigg mur- 
 I dered her apprentice in 1767 ; the cellar-grating, whence the poor 
 ! child's cries issued, is on the side of the court. On the Rolls estate, 
 nearly opposite, was commenced a new Record Office, by Pennethorne, 
 in 1851. No. 32 Fetter-lane is the entrance to the Moravian Chapel, 
 which was attacked and dismantled in the Sacheverel riots. (See DIS- 
 SENTERS' CHAPELS, p. 174.) The Fleet-street and Holborn ends of 
 Fetter-lane were formerly places of execution : strange labyrinths of 
 courts and alleys lie between Chancery, Fetter, and Shoe lanes, which, 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, intersected gardens and straggling 
 cottages. This district was the principal part of Saxon London, and 
 was nearly all burnt A.D. 982, when the City had "most buildings from 
 Ludgate towards Westminster, and little or none where the heart of 
 the City now is ; except in divers places was housing that stood without 
 order." (Stow.) 
 
 The White Horse Inn, Fetter-lane, was formerly the great Oxford house : here 
 Lord Eldon, when he left school and came to London, in 1776, met his brother, 
 Lord Stowell. " He took me," says Lord Eldon, " to see the play at Drury-lane. 
 Love played Jobson in the farce ; and Miss Pope played Nell. When we came out 
 of the house it rained hard. There were then few hackney-coaches, and we both 
 got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of Fleet-street into Fetter-lane, there was 
 a sort of contest between our chairman and some persons who were coming up 
 Fleet-street, whether they should first pass Fleet street, or we in our chair first 
 get out of Fleet-street into Fetter-lane. In the struggle, the sedan-chair was 
 overset, with us in it." Lord El don's Anecdote-Book. 
 
 FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS. 
 
 The fields behind Montague House, Bloomsbury, appear to have been 
 originally called Long Fields; and afterwards (about Strype's time) 
 Southampton Fields. On St. John Baptist's Day, 1694, Aubrey saw 
 at midnight twenty-three young women in the pasture behind Montague 
 House looking for a coal, under the root of a plantain, to put under their 
 heads that night, and they should dream who would be their husbands. 
 The fields were the resort of depraved wretches, chiefly for fighting 
 pitched battles, especially on the Sabbath-day : such was the state of 
 the place up to 1800. 
 
 A legendary story of the period of the Duke of Monmouth's Rebel- 
 lion relates a mortal conflict here between two brothers, on account 
 of a lady, who sat by ; the combatants fought so ferociously as to de- 
 stroy each other; after which, their footsteps, imprinted on the ground 
 in the vengeful struggle, were said to remain, with the indentations 
 produced by their advancing and receding ; nor would any grass or 
 vegetation ever grow over these forty footsteps. Miss Porter and her 
 sister, upon this fiction, founded their ingenious romance, Coming Out, 
 or the Field of Forty Footsteps ; but they entirely depart from the 
 local tradition. At the Tottenham- street Theatre w'as produced, many 
 years since, an effective melodrama, founded upon the same incident, 
 entitled the Field of Forty Footsteps. 
 
 Southey records this strange story in his Commonplace Book (se- 
 cond Series, p. 21). After quoting a letter from a friend, recommend- 
 ing him to " take a view of those wonderful marks of the Lord's hatred 
 to duelling, called The Brothers' Steps" and describing the locality, 
 Southey thus narrates his own visit to the spot : " We sought for near 
 half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at all within a quarter of 
 a mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague House. We were almost out of 
 
292 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 hope, when an honest man, who was at work, directed us to the next 
 ground, adjoining to a pond. There we found what we sought, about 
 three quarters of a mile north of Montague House, and 500 yards east 
 of Tottenham-Court-road. The steps are of the size of a large human 
 foot, about three inches deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south- 
 west. We counted only seventy-six ; but we were not exact in count- 
 ing. The place where one or both the brothers are supposed to have 
 fallen, is still bare of grass. The labourer also shewed us the bank 
 where (the tradition is) the wretched woman sat to see the combat." 
 Southey adds his full confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility 
 of the steps, even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be 
 drawn from the circumstance. Notes and Queries, No. 12. 
 
 Joseph Moser, in one of his Commonplace Hooks, gives this account 
 of the footsteps, just previous to their being built over : " June 16, 1800: 
 "Went into the fields at the back of Montague House, and there saw, 
 for the last time, the forty footsteps ; the building materials are th^re, 
 ready to cover them from the sight of man. I counted more than forty, 
 but they might be the foot-prints of the workmen." Dobie's St. Giles- 
 in-the- Fields, and St. George, Bloomsbury ; and Dr. Kimbault, in Notes 
 and Queries, No. 14. 
 
 FIELD-LAXE, 
 
 An infamous rookery of " the dangerous classes," extended from the 
 foot of Holborn-hill, northward, parallel with the Fleet Ditch, but has 
 been mostly taken down fince it was thus vividly painted in 1837 : 
 
 " Near to the spot on which Snow-hill and Holborn meet, there opens, upon 
 the right hand as you come out of the City, a narrow and dismal alley leading to 
 Saffron-hill. In its filthy shops are exposed for sale huge bunches of pocket- 
 handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns for here reside the traders who purchase 
 them from pickpockets. Hundreds of these handkerchiefs hang dangling from 
 pegs outside the windows, or flaunting from the door-posts; and the shelves 
 within are piled with them, Confined as the limits of Field lane are, it has its 
 barber, its coffee-shop, its beer-shop, and its fried-fish warehouse. It is a com- 
 mercial colony of itself, the emporium of netty larceny, visited, at early morning 
 and setting-in of dusk, by silent merchants, who traffic in dark back- parlours, 
 and go as strangely as they come Here the clothesman, the shoe-vamper. and 
 the rag-merchant, display their goods as sign-boards to the petty thief; and stores 
 of old iron and bones, and heaps of mildewy fragments of woollen-stuff and linen, 
 rust and rot in the grimy cellars." Dickens's Oliver Twist. 
 
 From Field-lane, northward, runs Saffron-hill, named from the saffron 
 which it once bore ; next is Vine-street, the site of Ely-House vineyard. 
 Strype (1720) describes this locality as " of small account both as to 
 buildings and inhabitants, and pestered with small and ordinary alleys 
 and courts, taken up by the meaner sort of people;" others are "nasty 
 and inconsiderable." 
 
 In 1844 was taken down part of Old Chick-lane, which debouched 
 into Field-lane. Here was a notorious thieves' lodging-house, formerly 
 the Red- Lion Tavern: it had various contrivances for concealment, and 
 the Fleet Ditch in the rear, across which the pursued often escaped by 
 a plank into the opposite knot of courts and alleys. 
 
 FINSBURY, 
 
 Or Fensbnry, named from its fenny ground, is a manor of high anti- 
 quity, which abuts in part upon the City, Cripplegate, and Moor- 
 gate boundaries, and was anciently named Vynesbury. A great part 
 of the manor is held by the Corporation of London, by virtue of a 
 lease dated 22d May, 1315, from Robert de Baildok, prebendary of 
 Haliwell and Finsbury, in St. Paul's Cathedral, at an annual rent of 
 20*. The lease, which has been renewed from tune to time, will expire 
 
FIRE OF LONDON. 293 
 
 in the year 1867. The Corporation appoints the steward and other 
 officers of the manorial courts ; but the manor is not within the juris- 
 diction of the City. The Finsbury court leet and baron are holden in 
 October every year, before the senior Common Pleader, to whose office 
 the stewardship of the manor of Finsbury is incident. (Municipal Cor- 
 poration Report, pp. 3, 136; and Maitland s London, vol. ii. 1369.) 
 Finsbury has been drained and built over, and is now a populous par- 
 liamentary borough, including the ancient district of Moorfields. 
 
 In early times, the chief magistrate of London was no more than a provost. 
 Afterwards, the title of Mayor that is, Major Chief -was given to him ; but in 
 all the olden chronicles and documents he is simply called by that name, without 
 the prefix of Lord. When the manor of Finsbury was annexed to the City pro- 
 perty, and the mere marsh was turned into a place of general recreation, he was, 
 in virtue of his office, Lord of the Manor of Finsbury. Hence, in process of time, 
 the compound title of Lord Mayor: Mayor, that is, of London, and Lord of the 
 Manor of Finsbury. 
 
 FIRE OF LONDON (THE), 
 
 Or the GREAT FIRE of 1666, broke out about one o'clock on Sunday 
 morning, September 2, and raged nearly four days and nights. It com- 
 menced at the house of one Farryner, the "King's Baker," in Pudding- 
 lane, near New Fish-Street-hill, and within ten houses of Lower Thames- 
 street, into which it spread within a short time ; nearly all the con- 
 tiguous buildings being of lath and plaster, and the whole neighbour- 
 hood mostly close passages and narrow lanes and alleys, of wooden 
 pitched houses. Driven by a strong east-north-east wind, the flames 
 spread with great rapidity: however, it was proposed to the Lord 
 Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth,) who came before three o'clock, to pull 
 down some houses, to prevent their extending; but he neglected this 
 advice, and before eight o'clock the fire had reached London Bridge. 
 
 The tremendous event is finely described by Evelyn in his Diary, 
 wherein he tells us that it made the atmosphere as light as day " for 
 ten miles round about ; . . all the skie was of a fiery aspect, like the 
 top of a burning oven, the light seen above forty miles round about. 
 Above 10,000 houses all in one flame ; the noise and cracking and 
 thunder of the impetuous flames, y e shrieking of women and children, 
 the hurry of people, the fall of towers, houses and churches, was like 
 an hideous storme, and the air all about so hot and inflam'd, that at last 
 one was not able to approach it, so that they were forc'd to stand still 
 and let y e flames burn on, w ch they did for neere two miles in length, 
 and one in bredth. The clouds of smoke were dismall, and reached 
 upon computation neer 50 miles in length." 
 
 On the 5th, Evelyn writes : " In this calamitous condition, I return'd 
 with a sad heart to my house, blessing and adoring the mercy of God 
 to me and mine, who in the midst of all this ruine, was, like Lot, in 
 my little Zoar, safe and sound." 
 
 Pepys's account, in his Diary, is fully as minute as that of Evelyn, 
 but is mingled with various personal and official circumstances. Pepys 
 was then clerk of the Acts of the Navy : his house and office were in 
 Seething-lane, Crutched Friars ; he was called up at three in the morn- 
 ing, Sept. 2, by his maid Jane, and so rose and slipped on his night- 
 gown, and went to her window ; but thought the fire far enough off, 
 and so went to bed again, and to sleep. Next morning, Jane told him 
 that she heard above 300 houses had been burnt down by the fire they 
 saw, and that it was then burning down all Fish-street, by London 
 Bridge. " So," he writes, " I made myself ready presently, and walked 
 to the Tower, and there got up upon one of the high places, and saw 
 the houses at that end of the bridge all on fire, and an infinite great 
 
294 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 fire on this and the other side of the end of the bridge," &c. On 
 Sept. 5, he notes : " about two in the morning my wife calls me up, 
 and tells me of new cries of fire, it being come to Barking Church, 
 which is at the bottom of our Lane." The fire was, however, stopped, 
 " as well at Mark-lane end as ours; it having only burned the dyall of 
 Barking Church, and part of the porch, and there was quenched." 
 
 The limits of the Great Fire, according to the London Gazette, Sept. 8, 1666, 
 were: "at the Temple Church, near Holborn Bridge, Pye Corner, Aldersgate, 
 Cripplegate.near the lower end of Coleman-street, at the end of Basinghall-street, 
 by the Postern ; at the upper end of Bishopsgate-street and Leadenhall-street, at 
 the Standard in Cornhill, at the Church in Fenchurch-street, near Clothworkers* 
 Hall, in Mincing-lane, at the middle of Mark-lane, and at the Tower Dock." 
 
 " It is observed and is true, in the late Fire of London, that the Fire burned 
 just as many parish churches as there were hours from the beginning to the 
 end of the Fire ; and next, that there were just as many churches left standing in 
 the rest of the City that was not burned, being, I think, thirteen in all of each; 
 which is pretty to observe." Pepys' Diary, Jan. 7, 1667-8. 
 
 The Fire consumed almost five-sixths of the whole City ; and without 
 the walls, it cleared a space nearly as extensive as the one-sixth part 
 left unburnt within. Public edifices, churches, and dwelling-houses 
 were alike consumed; and it may be stated that the flames extended 
 their ravages over a space of ground equal to an oblong square of a 
 mile and a half in length, and half a mile in breadth. In one of the inscrip- 
 tions on the Monument, which was drawn up from the reports of the 
 surveyors appointed after the Fire, it is stated that "the ruins of the 
 City were 436 acres (viz. 373 acres within the walls, and 63 without 
 them, but within the liberties); that, of the six-aud-twenty wards, it 
 utterly destroyed fifteen, and left eight others shattered and half-burnt ; 
 and that it consumed eighty -nine churches, four of the city gates, 
 Guildhall, many public structures, hospitals, schools, libraries, a great 
 number of stately edifices, 13,200 dwelling-houses, and 460 streets." 
 
 Lord Clarendon says, that " the value or estimate of what that 
 devouring Fire consumed could never be computed in any degree." A 
 curious pamphlet upon the Burning of London, first published in 1667, 
 however, estimates the loss at 7,335,000/. ; but it is believed to have 
 been nearer ten millions sterling. 
 
 Whether the Great Fire were the effect of design or of accident, 
 has been much controverted. Lord Clarendon admits the public im- 
 pression to have been, " that the Fire was occasioned by conspiracy and 
 combination ;" and although he himself maintains the negative, his own 
 account furnishes opposite testimony. " It could not be conceived," 
 he says, " how a house that was distant a mile from any part of the 
 Fire could suddenly be in a flame, without some particular malice; and 
 this case fell out every hour.'* One Robert Hubert, a French Papist, 
 seized in Essex, confessed to have begun the Fire ; and was hanged 
 accordingly : he stated that he had been "suborned at Paris to this 
 action ;" that there " were three more combined with him to do the 
 same thing," and that "he had set the first house on fire." Yet Lord 
 Clarendon strangely remarks, that " neither the judges, nor any present 
 at the trial, did believe him guilty, but that he was a poor distracted 
 wretch weary of his life, and chose to part with it in this way." This 
 was not credited by Howell, then recorder of London. " Tillotson 
 believed the City was burnt on design." (Burnet.) 
 
 On the 26th of April, 1666, a plot was discovered for taking the Tower and 
 firing the city, which was to have been put in execution on the 3d of September, 
 a day regarded as peculiarly lucky to the anti-royalist faction. It is worthy of 
 remark that the " Great Fire of London" broke out on the 2d of September in that 
 year, the very day before that appointed by the conspirators. 
 
 An extremely impressive narrative of the progress of the conflagration, and of 
 the distress and confusion it occasioned, has been given by the Rev. T. Vincent, 
 
FIRES, MEMORABLE. 
 
 295 
 
 a nonconformist divine, in his tract, God's Terrible Advice to the City by Plague 
 and Fire, of which thirteen editions were published within five years. 
 
 The stationers and booksellers lost their stocks, which they had 
 deposited in St. Paul's crypt : too eager to ascertain its condition, as 
 the fire subsided, they caused an aperture to be made in the smoulder- 
 ing pile, when a stream of wind rushed in and consumed the whole : 
 " Heavens, what a pile ! whole ages perish'd there ; 
 
 And one bright blaze turn'd learning into air." 
 
 Aubrey relates that on St. Andrew's Day, (Nov. 30,) 1666, as he was riding in 
 a coach towards Gresham College, at the corner of Holborn Bridge a cellar of coals 
 was opened by the labourers, and "there were burning coals which burnt ever 
 since the Great Fire ; but being pent so close from air, there was very little 
 waste." Nat. Hist. Wilts. 
 
 "Westminster Hall was filled with the citizens' goods and merchan- 
 dise ; and Pepys oddly complains that he could not *' find any place in 
 "Westminster to buy a shirt or pair of gloves ; Westminster Hall being 
 full of people's goods." 
 
 A Court of Judicature was appointed by Parliament, to settle all 
 differences arising in respect to the destroyed premises ; and the 
 judges of this Court gave such satisfaction, that their portraits were 
 painted, at the expense of the citizens, for 60/. a piece, and are now in 
 the Courts of Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, Guildhall. 
 
 Not more than six persons lost their lives in the Fire ; one of 
 whom was a watchmaker, living in Shoe-lane, behind the Globe Ta- 
 vern, and who would not leave his house, which sunk him with the 
 ruins into the cellar, where his bones, with his keys, were found. 
 
 (See Hollar's small view of London before and after the Fire ; and 
 an ingenious picture-plan by F. Whishaw, C.E., shewing the part of 
 the City destroyed, and its altered condition in 1839.) 
 
 Whilst the city was rebuilding, temporary edifices were raised, both 
 for divine worship and the general business. Gresham College, which 
 had escaped the flames, was converted into an Exchange and Guild- 
 hall; and the Royal Society removed its sittings to Arundel House. The 
 affairs of the Custom-House were transacted in Mark-lane ; of the 
 Excise Office, in Southampton-fields, near Bedford House ; the General 
 Post-Office was removed to Brydges-street, Covent Garden ; Doctors' 
 Commons to Exeter House, Strand; and the King's wardrobe was 
 consigned from Puddle Wharf to York Buildings. The inhabitants, for 
 a time, were mostly lodged in small huts, built in Finsbury and Moor- 
 fields, in Smithfield, and on all the open spaces in the neighbourhood of 
 the metropolis. The whole calamity was bravely borne : Evelyn men- 
 tions that the merchants complied with their foreign correspondence 
 as if no disaster had happened, and not one failure was heard of. 
 Within two days after the conflagration, both Wren and Evelyn had 
 presented to the king plans for a new city : neither of these was 
 accepted ; but London was principally rebuilt within little more than 
 four years after its destruction. (See MONUMENT, the.) 
 
 FIRES, MEMORABLE, IN LONDON. 
 
 Southwark burnt by William the Con- 
 queror, about twenty years before the 
 Domesday Survey. 
 
 902.- St. Paul's Minster burnt. 
 
 1086. All the houses and churches 
 from the west to the east gate burnt. 
 (Baker's Chronicle.} 
 
 108?. St. Paul's burnt. 
 
 1093. The wooden houses and straw 
 roofs of the London citizens again in 
 
 flames, and great part of the city de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 1136. The houses burnt from near 
 London-stone eastward as far as Aid- 
 gate ; and to the shrine of St. Erken- 
 wald, in St. Paul's Cathedral, west. 
 
 1212. July 10. Southwark and the 
 Church of St. Mary Overie, burnt, when 
 the people crowding thither, and the 
 houses of the north and south end of 
 
296 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LOITOON. 
 
 London Bridge taking fire simultaneous- | all the warehouses on Fresh Wharf, and 
 ly, the crowd was between two fires, and i the roof of St. Magnus Church, burnt 
 3000 persons were burned or drowned. } (see CHURCHES, p. 135). 
 
 1512. Great part of the Palace at 1761. Feb. 10. Fishmongers' Hall 
 "Westminster "once again" burnt (4 ! and several houses in Thames-street 
 Hen. viii.), and not since re-edified; j burnt. April 11. In East Smithfield, 
 only the Great Hall, with adjoining 28 houses burnt. April 24. In Swallow- 
 
 offices, kept in good repair. 
 
 1534. Aug. 16. The Mews, Charing 
 Cross, burnt. 
 
 1613. June 29. The Globe Theatre 
 burnt. 
 
 1619. Jan. 12. The old banqueting- 
 house, Whitehall Palace, burnt. 
 
 1621. Dec. 9. The Fortune Theatre 
 burnt. Dec. 20. Six Clerks' Office, 
 Chancery-lane, burnt. 
 
 1630-31. Feb. 20, Sunday. Alarm of 
 fire in Westminster Hall. 
 
 16^2-33. Feb. 3. More thin one-third 
 of the houses on London Bridge burnt ; 
 the Thames almost frozen. 
 
 1666. The GKEAT FIRE. (See pre- 
 ceding article). 
 
 1671-2. The King's Theatre, Drury- 
 
 street, 14 houses burnt. May 2. At 
 Shadwell, 30 houses burnt. 
 
 1 765 Nov. 7. In Cornhill and Bishops- 
 gate-street : upwards of 90 houses burnt 
 in 12 hours (see CORXHILL, p. 235). 
 
 1775. Sept. 28. At Wapping; 20 
 houses burnt 
 
 1780. April 30. AtHorsleydown; 30 
 houses burnt. June 2 to 7 Several in- 
 cendiary fires by the Rioters. 
 
 1783. Sept. 23. At Gun- dock, Wap- 
 ping ; 14 houses burnt. 
 
 1789. June 17. Italian Opera-house 
 (Vanbrugh's) burnt. 
 
 1790. April 1. At Hermitage-stairs ; 
 damage 30,000*. Oct. 4. At Rother- 
 hithe; 20 houses burnt. 
 
 1791. March 2. Albion Mills. Black- 
 lane, burnt. ] friars Bridge, burnt. Sept. 14. At 
 167fi. May 26. The Town-hall and! Rotherhithe ; several vessels, and 60 
 part of South wark (600 houses) burnt. I houses burnt. Dec. 12. Great sugar- 
 
 1686. Jan. 19. Montague -House, 
 Bloomsbury, burnt. 
 
 1691. April 10. At Whitehall Palace 
 all the buildings over the stone gallery 
 to the water-side burnt; 150 houses, 
 chiefly of the nobility, consumed, and 
 20 blown up. 
 
 1697. Jan. 4. Whitehall Palace, ex- 
 cept Inigo Jones's banqueting-house, 
 burnt ; all its pictures destroyed, and 
 12 persons perished. 
 
 1716. TnWapping: 150 houses burnt. 
 
 1718. The Custom-House (Wren's) 
 destroyed. 
 
 1725 Sept. 8. At London Bridge 
 foot, Southwark: 60 houses burnt. 
 
 1730. Jan. 30. Bowyer*s printing- 
 office, White-Fryars. burnt ; the sufferer 
 indemnified by royal brief, and sub- 
 scriptions of printers and booksellers. 
 
 1736. At Shadwell: 50 houses burnt. 
 
 house, Wellclose-square, desrroyed. 
 
 1792. Jan. 4 The Pantheon, Oxford- 
 street, burnt. July 28. Timber-yard, 
 Moorfields; damage 10/00*. 
 
 1793. At Hawley's-wharf, Hermit- 
 age-wharf; d image to su<rar, 10,000*. 
 Dec. 13. In Duck-lane, Wardour-st. ; 
 13 houses burnt. 
 
 1794. June 18. At Limehouse Hole, 
 many houses burnt. July 22, 23. At 
 Ratcliffe Cross ; 630 houses and an East- 
 India warehouse burnt : loss, 1,000,000*. 
 
 1795. Aug. 17. Astley's Amphi- 
 theatre and 19 houses burnt. Sept. 12. St. 
 Paul's Church, Covent-garden, burnt. 
 
 1799. July 14. In the King's Bench 
 prison ; 50 apartments burnt. 
 
 1800. Feb. 11. Three West- India 
 warehouses, Lower Thames-st , burnt. 
 Oct. 6. At Wapping; 30 houses, be- 
 sides warehouses. 
 
 1748. March 25. In Cornhill ward : I 1802. Sept. 27. Brewery burnt in 
 200 houses burnt; commenced in Change- Store-street, Tottenham Court Road, 
 alley, and was the largest since the Great 1803. Feb. 21. Hamilton's printing- 
 
 Fire of 1666 (see CORNHILL. p. 235). 
 
 1752. Great fire in Lincoln *s-Inn. 
 
 1758. Apr. 11. The temporary wooden 
 London Bridge destroyed by tire, stop- 
 ping all communication between the 
 city and Southwark, except by boats. 
 This produced the Act of Parliament 
 
 office, Falcon-court, Fleet-street, de- 
 stroyed. July 9. Centra] tower of West- 
 minster Abbey took fire. Sept. 2. Ast- 
 le\ 's Amphitheatre and 40 houses burnt. 
 
 1805. Aug. 12. Royal Circus The- 
 atre, St. George's Fields, burnt. 
 
 1807. Nov. 5. Bensley's printing- 
 
 which made any wilful attempt to de- office, Bolt-court, Fleet-street, burnt. 
 
 stroy the bridge or its works punishable 
 with death, without benefit of clergy. 
 
 1759. Nov. 30. The Sardinian Am- 
 bassador's chapel, Duke-street, Lin- 
 coln's-Inn-Fields, burnt. In King-street, 
 Covent-garden, several houses burnt. 
 
 1760. April 10. Fire at an oilman's, 
 Lower Thames-st.; 7 dwelling-houses, 
 
 1808. Sept. 20. Covent Garden The- 
 atre destroyed. 
 
 1809 Jan. 21. Wing of St. James's 
 Palace Destroyed. Feb. 24. Drury Lane 
 Theatre burnt. July 8. Fire in Conduit- 
 street, at which Mr. Windham received 
 an injury which caused his death. 
 
 1810. Jan. 1. At Whitefriars Dock; 
 
FIRES, MEMORABLE. 
 
 297 
 
 the two Houses been wafted towards 
 the vast timber roof of the hall, it must 
 have been inevitably destroyed. Among 
 the strange stories in support of the fire 
 being the work of political incendiaries, 
 is the statement of Mr. Cooper, an iron- 
 monger, of Drury-lane, that he heard at 
 Dudley, in Worcestershire (119 miles 
 from London), a report of the conflagra- 
 tion about three hours after it broke out. 
 
 1835. March 2. Great fire in Silver- 
 street, Golden-square. 
 
 1836. Feb. 17. Christchurch steeple, 
 Spitalfields, burnt ; and clock, bells, and 
 chimes destroyed. March 26. Western 
 Exchange, Burlington Arcade, burnt. 
 Aug. 30. Penning s Wharf, London- 
 bridge, burnt. 
 
 1837. Dec. 28. Davies's Wharf, 
 Tooley-street, burnt, with 5000 barrels 
 of rough turpentine, and 800 tuns of oil. 
 
 1838. Jan. 10. The Royal Exchange 
 burnt within five hours; with a great 
 amount of property, documents of cor- 
 porations, &c. March 6. Great fire in 
 Paper-buildings, Temple. 
 
 1841. Feb. 7. The old church at 
 Camberwell burnt. June 8. Astley's 
 Amphitheatre destroyed. Oct. 30. Great 
 h're in the Tower ; the great storehouse, 
 with 280,000 stand of arms, and the 
 Bowyer and Butler Towers, burnt. 
 
 1843. Aug. 17. Great fire at. Top- 
 ping's Wharf, London Bridge; Watson's 
 telegraph tower and St. Olave's Church 
 burnt (see CHURCHES, p. 151). 
 
 1844. Oct. 14. New Cross Railway- 
 Station burnt. 
 
 1*45. Aug. 18. Great fire in Alder- 
 manbury. 
 
 1846. Dec. 2. Fergusson's Wax- 
 work, New Cut, Lambeth, burnt, with 
 serpents, monkeys, &c. 
 
 1849. March 29. The Olympic The- 
 atre and a dozen other buildings burnt 
 in three hours. Oct. 6. Extensive fire 
 at London- wall ; Carpenters' Hall in- 
 jured: loss, 100,000*. 
 
 1850. March 29. St. Anne's Church, 
 Limehouse, destroyed. Sept. 19. Great 
 fire in Mark-lane and Seething-lane ; 
 loss, 1 00,0002. In the ruins was dis- 
 covered a tablet, inscribed : " This was 
 rebuilt in 1792. The foundation, or 
 'base courts,' are the remains of the 
 original palace where the city standard 
 of weights and measures was formerly 
 kept, and designated, in Saxon phrase- 
 ology, ' Assay Thing Court,' the entrance 
 to which was in, as is now called, 
 ' Seething lane.'" 
 
 1851. Feb.19. Alderman Humphrey's 
 warehouses, Tooley-st., burnt; and on 
 June 23, his warehouses in Montague- 
 close, opposite, consumed. Sept. 20. 
 Picture - frame - maker's workshops in 
 Mount -row, Westminster -road, fired 
 by an aerolite. 
 
298 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 FIRE-BRIGADE. 
 
 The earliest mechanical contrivance for the extinction of fires in 
 London appears to have been a syringe or squirt, numbers of which 
 were kept by the parochial authorities. In the vestry-room of St. 
 Dionis', Back-church, Fenchurch-street, are preserved three of these 
 squirts : each is about 2 feet 3 inches long, and when used was attached 
 by straps to the body of a man : others were worked by three men, 
 two holding the squirt by the handles and nozzle, while a third worked 
 the piston within it. Such was the rudiment of our first fire-engine. 
 " Now streets grow throng'd, and busy as by day : 
 
 Some run for buckets to the hallow'd quire; 
 Some cut the pipes, and some the engines play, 
 And some, more bold, mount ladders to the fire." 
 
 Dryden's Annus Mirabilis (1666). 
 
 The " engines" were the syringes, which were greatly increased after 
 the Great Fire, but were shortly afterwards superseded by regular tire- 
 engines. By order of the Corporation of London, a Fire Police was 
 established in 1668; the several parishes were provided with leathern 
 buckets, ladders, pickaxes, sledges, shovels, and hand-squirts of brass; 
 which supply the companies, aldermen, and subsidy-men contributed ; 
 and among other provisions, was the ringing of a bell. The fire-cocks, 
 and the " F.P." and " W.M." upon houses to denote the place of the 
 fire-plug and water-main; and the rewards for bringing the parish- 
 engines; date from stat. 6 Anne, cap. 31. 
 
 The Great Fire led to the establishment of Insurance Offices against 
 losses by fire: in 1681, the Court of Common Council attempted to 
 establish one, but unsuccessfully ; the earliest was the Phoenix, at the 
 Rainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, in 1682; the Friendly Society, 1684 
 (badge, a sheaf of arrows) ; and the Hand-in-Hand, established in 1696; 
 next was the Sun, projected by one Povev, about 1706, and by the pre- 
 sent Company in 1710; the Westminster Fire Office, 1717; each office 
 keeping its firemen in liveries, with silver badges; and their fire-engines, 
 which they from time to time improved. In 1676 was patented an en- 
 gine with leathern pipes, for quenching fire; and about 1720, two Ger- 
 mans had at Bethnal-green a manufactory of water-tight seamless hose. 
 " Now with thick crowds ih' enlighten'd pavement swarms, 
 The fireman sweats beneath his crooked arms ; 
 A leathern casque his vent'rous head defends, 
 Boldly he climbs where thickest smoke ascends. 
 Mov'd by the mother's streaming eyes and prayers, 
 The helpless infant through the flame he bears, 
 With no less virtue than through hostile fire 
 The Dardan hero bore his asred sire. 
 See forceful engines spout their leveled streams, 
 To quench the blaze that runs along the beams; 
 The grappling-hook plucks rafters from the walls, 
 And heaps on heaps the smoky ruin falls. 
 
 ****** 
 
 Hark ! the drum thunders ! far, ye crowds, retire : 
 
 Behold ! the ready match is tipt with fire, 
 
 The nitrous store is laid, the smutty train 
 
 "With running blaze awakes the barrell'd grain; 
 
 Flames sudden wrap the walls; with sullen sound 
 
 The shatter'd pile sinks on the smoky ground." Gay's Trivia, b. iti. 
 In 1798 was formed the Fire-watch or Fire-guard of London ; the 
 Insurance Offices still keeping their separate engine establishments. 
 In 1808, Sir F. M. Eden, then chairman of the Globe Insurance Office, 
 proposed to form a general fire-engine establishment, but the attempt 
 failed. About 1825, the Sun, Union, and Royal Exchange formed a 
 brigade, subsequently joined by the Atlas and Phoenix. The number 
 
FIRE-BRIGADE. 299 
 
 iof engines varied from 38 to 50 ; and in 1815, the number of firemen 
 {protected from impressment by the Building Act was 398. In 1832, 
 (ten of the Insurance Companies formed an alliance for assisting each 
 ither at fires ; hence the " London Fire-Engine Establishment," which 
 ommenced operations in 1833, and has since been joined by all the 
 other Companies, except three. By the rules, London is divided into 
 five districts: 1. Eastward of Aldersgate- street and St. Paul's; 2. 
 Thence westward, to Tottenham- Court- road and St. Martin's-lane ; 
 3. All westward of the second ; 4. South of the river ; in each of which 
 districts are engine-stations : besides a floating engine off Rotherhithe 
 and Southwark Bridge; these require more than 100 men each for 
 (working, and throw up two tuns of water per minute. The eastern- 
 most station is at Ratcliff; the westernmost near Portman- square. 
 A certain number of the men or "Fire Brigade," superintended by 
 Mr. Braidwood, are ready at all hours of the day and night, as are also 
 the engines, to depart at a minute's alarm, in case of fire. The Associa- 
 tions award a gratuity of 10*. to a policeman who gives an alarm to the 
 nearest engine-station ; and the director or captain of each engine pays 
 jstrnngers or bystanders for aid: it requires from twenty to thirty 
 Imen to work each engine ; and at a large fire, 500 strangers have been 
 thus employed. Sometimes the engines are summoned by electric 
 telegraph, and conveyed by railway to fires in the country. 
 
 The number of engines kept is 37; of the Fire Brigade, 96. The men wear a 
 jdark grey uniform, trimmed with red, with the number of each man marked in 
 red on the left breast; they have black le ither waist belts, hardened leathern 
 pelmets, reminding one of the leathern casque and " the Dardan hero" of Gay's 
 Tririfi. The engines are provided with scaling ladders, which may readily be 
 konnected, and thus form a ladder of any required height; a canvass sheet, with 
 handles of rope round the edge, to form afire-escape; besides lengths of2-inch 
 ropes, hose, branch-pipes, suction-pipes, a flat rose, goose-neck, dam-board, boat- 
 hook, saw, shovel, mattock, pole-ax*?, screw-wrench, crowbar, portable cistern, 
 two dog-tails, strips of sheep-skin, small cord, instruments for opening the fire- 
 plugs, and keys for turning the stop-cocks of the water-mains. 
 
 Another ingenious provision is a smoke-proof dress, consisting of a leathern 
 acket and head-covering, fastened at the waist and wrist, so that the interior is 
 smoke-proof: two glass windows serve for the eyes to look through, and a pipe 
 attached to the girdle allows fresh air to be pumped into the interior of the jacket, 
 to support the respiration of the wearer : thus equipped, the fireman may dare 
 the densest smoke. 
 
 A register of all fires attended is kept ; and useful statistics are thus 
 obtained. In five years' average, the largest number of fires occurred 
 Jin December, then in May, March, and July ; on Sunday evenings, be- 
 itween ten and eleven o'clock. Mr. Braidwood states 5794 fires to have 
 occurred in ten years; in which 269 houses were totally burned down; 
 persons perished, 158. In five years' fires, private and lodging houses 
 were 45 per cent of the total number. Next in frequency were sale- 
 shops, public-houses, carpenters, bakers, oilmen, stables, cabinet-makers, 
 jtinmen and braziers, booksellers, binders, estate-owners, warehouses, 
 hat-makers, brokers, brokers and dealers in old clothes, grocers, ships, 
 wine and spirit sellers, drapers and mercers. Lucifer- match makers 
 considerably exceed fire-work makers. Accidents from candles are 
 nearly 30 per cent of the causes ; then flues and stoves ; gas accidents, 
 7$ per cent ; airing linen, nearly 8 per cent. There are large classes of 
 causes: apparel ignited on the person; children plaving with fire; 
 incautious fumigation ; intoxication ; lucifer-match making ; loose shav- 
 ings ignited ; spontaneous combustion ; and tobacco-smoking. 
 
 Steam-power was first applied to work a fire-engine in 1830. (See 
 ARGYLL ROOMS, page 19.) There is also on the Thames a steam float- 
 ing-engine, the machinery of which either propels the vessel, or works 
 the pumps, as required. 
 
300 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 With Fire Insurance is usually combined Life Insurance. The 
 offices are mostly buildings of architectural and sculptural decoration ; 
 some of them resembling in design highly-enriched palaces. The pawn- 
 brokers have an insurance company of their own, from the general 
 Companies charging them high rates. 
 
 A Parisian journalist acknowledges : " I compared our wretched little engines, 
 dragged with difficulty over the pavement of Paris by our brave pompiers, already 
 half dead with that fatigue before the real occasion for their exertion begins, I 
 compared these with the powerful pump-engines brought to the spot by four 
 powerful horses at full gallop, and the firemen sitting at their ease on the engines. 
 I thought of the wild confu.-ion of our chains, of the cries of all the workmen, of 
 our leathern buckets brought empty to the engines, while I saw before me the 
 water pouring, the streets inundated, and the pipes like brilliantje/s d'eau, lit up 
 by countless torches, and rising above the crowd as a symbol of safety to man in 
 the midst of dangers from fire. With us every passer-by is stopped to work the 
 engine; here, the difficulty is to prevent the people from so doing." 
 
 Fire-escapes are stationed in various districts by the Society for the 
 Protection of Life from Fire ; each station costing about 70/. ; and its 
 maintenance with a conductor, about 801. annually. In 1851, they saved 
 twenty-four lives. 
 
 FLEET PRISON (THE), 
 
 Abolished and removed in 1846. after nearly eight centuries' existence, 
 was indisputably named from the creek or stream of the Fleet, upon the 
 eastern bank of which it was erected. This was once a busy river 
 covered with ships and small craft ; now it is a dark, hidden stream. 
 
 The prison was formerly held in conjunction with the manor of 
 Leveland, in Kent, and with " the king's houses at Westminster ;" the 
 whole being part of the ancient possessions of the See of Canterbury, 
 traceable in a grant from Archbishop Lanfranc, soon after the accession 
 of William the Conqueror. The wardenship or serjeancy of the prison 
 was anciently held by several eminent personages, who also had custody 
 of the king's palace at Westminster.* It was <k a place," in the worst 
 sense of the phrase; for, so long ago as 1-586, the persons to whom the 
 Warden had underlet it were guilty of crueltv and extortion, crimes, 
 however, characteristic of the Court of Star" Chamber, of which the 
 Fleet was at this time the prison. Up to this period, its history is little 
 better than a sealed book ; the burning of the prison by the followers 
 of Wat Tyler seeming to have been the only noticeable event. 
 
 In the reigns of Edward VI. and Mary, the Fleet was tenanted by 
 several victims of religious bigotry. Bishop Hooper was twice com- 
 mitted to the Fleet, which he only quitted (1555) for the stake and the 
 fire, at Gloucester ; upon his way whither, he slept at the Angel Inn, 
 St. Clement's : in the Fleet, his bed was " a little pad of straw, with a 
 rotten covering ;" his " chamber was vile and stinking." 
 
 The Warden's fees in the reign of Elizabeth were : an Archbishop^ 
 Duke, or Duchess, for his commitment-fee, and the first week's " dyett," 
 211. 10s. ; a lord, spiritual or temporal, 101. os. Wd. ; a knight, 51. ; an 
 esquire, 3/. 6*. 8d. ; and even "a poor man in the wards, that hath a 
 part at the box, to pay for his fee, having no dyett, 7s. 4d." The War- 
 den's charge for license to a prisoner "to go abroad" was 20d. per diem. 
 
 From the reign of Elizabeth to the sixteenth year of King Charles L 
 (1641), the Star-Chamber Court was in full activity ; and several bishops 
 and other persons of distinction were imprisoned in the Fleet for their 
 religious opinions. Thither, too, were consigned the political victims 
 of the Star Chamber : two of the most interesting cases of this period 
 
 * To the Warden belonged the rents of the shops in Westminster Hall. 
 
FLEET PRISON. 301 
 
 >eing those of Prvnne and Lilburne. Prynne was taken out of the 
 prison, and, after suffering pillory, branding, mutilation of the nose, 
 loss of ears, was remanded to the Fleet. Lilburne " Freeborn 
 
 Chamber; and subsequently " doubly ironed" in the prison wards. 
 
 L Another tenant of the Fleet at this period was James Howel, the 
 thor of the familiar Letters, several of which are dated from the 
 (prison. By a letter " to the Earl of B., from the Fleet," Nov. 20, 1643, 
 :Howel was arrested "one morning betimes," by five men armed with 
 p swords, pistols, and bils," and some days after, committed to the 
 iFleet ; " and," he adds, " as far as I see, I must lie at dead anchor in 
 jlhis Fleet a long time, unlesse some gentle gale blow thence to make 
 me launch out." Then we find him consoling himself with the reflection 
 that the English "peeple" are in effect but prisoners, as all other 
 (islanders are. Other letters, by Howel, date from the Fleet, 1645-6-7. 
 The prison was burnt on Sept. 4, 1666, during the Great Fire; when 
 the prisoners were removed to Caroone or Caron House, in South Lam- 
 beth, until the Fleet was rebuilt on the original site. 
 
 After the abolition of the Star Chamber, in 1641, the Fleet became 
 la prison for debtors only, and for contempt of the Court of Chancery, 
 Common Pleas, and Exchequer. It appears to have been used for the 
 (confinement of debtors from the thirteenth century, at least by a pe- 
 jtition from John Frauncey, a debtor in the Fleet, A.D. 1290. 
 
 Long after the abolition of the Star Chamber, the Wardens con- 
 tinued their extortionate fees, and loading debtors with iron : their 
 {cruelties were exposed in 1696. In 1727, after a parliamentary inves- 
 tigation, Bambridge and Huggins( Wardens) and some of their servants 
 (were tried for different murders, yet all escaped by a verdict of not 
 (guilty ! Hogarth has, however, made them immortal in their infamy, 
 Jin his picture of Bambridge under examination, whilst a prisoner is ex- 
 plaining how he has been tortured. 
 
 In " the Riots" of 1780, the Fleet was destroyed by fire, and the 
 jprisoners liberated by the mob ; consequently great part of the papers 
 land prison-records were lost, though there remain scattered books and 
 (documents of several centuries back. Mr. Eyles, then Warden, was 
 directed by the Lord Mayor not to make any resistance to the mob, 
 which, as an eye-witness has informed the writer, might have been 
 (easily dispersed by a few soldiers. The prison was accordingly burnt. 
 ;(From A Brief Account published in 1843.) The mob were polite 
 ; enough to send notice to the prisoners of the period of their coming, 
 jand, on being informed it would be inconvenient on account of the late- 
 iness of the hour, postponed their visit to the following day. 
 
 Immediately after " the Riots," the prison was rebuilt : it consisted 
 chiefly of one long brick pile, parallel with Farringdon-street, and 
 standing in an irregularly- shaped area, so as to leave open spaces before 
 and behind, connected by passages round each other. This pile was 
 called the Master's Side. The front in Farringdon-street had an arched 
 opening into a room, and was technically called " the grate," from its 
 crossed iron bars. Above was inscribed, " Pray remember the poor 
 prisoners having no allowance ;" a small box was placed at the window- 
 sill, to receive the charity of passengers in the street, while a prisoner 
 within shouted in suppliant tone the above prayer. This was a relic of 
 the ancient prison, corresponding with the '"' begging at the grate" in 
 some old comedies; and " having a part at the box" already mentioned. 
 Disorderly prisoners were put in the stocks, or strong-room ; and those 
 who attempted to escape were confined in a tub at the prison-gate. 
 
302 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Above the entrance to the prison was the figure 9 ; so that a delicate 
 address given by the prisoners was " No. 9 Fleet-Market." 
 
 Alack! what "strange bedfellows" did debt a phase of misery make men 
 acquainted with in the Fleet ! If a prisoner was unwilling to go to the Common 
 Side, (for which he paid nothing,) he had the choice of going down into " Bar- 
 tholomew Fair," the lowest and sunken story, where he paid 1*. 3d. for the 
 undisturbed use of a room; or up to some of the better apartments, where he 
 paid the same rent, but was subject to chummage, i. e. a fellow-prisoner put 
 into his room, or " chummed upon him," but who might be got rid of by a pay- 
 ment of 4. 6d. per week, or more, according to the fulness of the prison. The 
 latter prisoner would then provide himself with a common lodging, by letting 
 which prisoners in the Fleet are known to have accumulated hundreds of pounds 
 in the course of a few years. The prison sometimes had 1000 inmates. 
 
 It was throughout a sad scene of recreant waste, vagabondism, and ruffian 
 recklessness: it had a skittle-shed; and a racket-ground, where Cavanagh was a 
 noted fives player. (See Hazlitt's life of him, Examiner, Feb 17, 1819.) Here 
 you might hear the roar of the great town from without, in contrast with the 
 stagnant life within the prison-walls, above the chevaux-de-frise of which mitrht be 
 seen a church-spire or two. 
 
 Happily, this pest of a prison, the Fleet, by Act of Parliament, 1842, 
 was abolished, and its few inmates were drafted to the Queen's Prison. 
 The property, covering nearly an acre of ground, was purchased of 
 the government by the Corporation of London for 25,OOOJ. It was 
 taken down, and the materials sold, in 1846; comprising nearly three 
 millions of bricks, 50 tons of lead, 40,000 feet of paving, &c. 
 
 The liberty of the Rules and the Day-Rules of the Fleet may be traced to the 
 time of Richard II., and their antiquity is not surprising when we find them to 
 be matters of profit and extortion by the Wardens. However, they were confirmed 
 by a rule of Court during the reign of James I. The Rules were enlarged in 
 Easter Term, 1824, by rule of the Court of Common Pleas; which extension 
 included the neighbouring parish chuiches, St. Bride's, and St. Martin's, Lud- 
 gate, and the adjacent streets of New Bridge-street, Blackfriars, to the Thames, 
 Dorset-street and Salisbury-square, and part of Fleet-street, Luri gate- hill and 
 street, to the entrance of St. Paul's Churchyard, the Old Bailey, and the various 
 lanes, courts, &c. in the vicinity of the above; the extreme circumference of the 
 liberty about a mile and a half. Those requiring the rules were obliged to provide 
 sureties for their forthcoming, and duly keeping within the boundaries, and to 
 pay a per centage on the amount of debts for which they were deta ned ; which 
 also entitled them to the liberty of the Day-rules, enabling them during term, or 
 the sitting of the courts at Westminster, to go abroad during the day, to transact 
 or arrange their affairs, &c. The Fleet and the Queen's Bench were the only 
 prisons in the kingdom to which these privileges had for centuries been attached. 
 
 Fleet Marriages, i. e. clandestine marriages, were performed in this 
 prison previously to the year 1754 ; and though not legal and regular, 
 they were tacitly recognised as being valid and indissoluble. Many of 
 these weddings were really performed in the chapel of the prison; though, 
 as the practice extended, ~" the Fleet parsons" and tavern-keepers in the 
 neighbourhood fitted up a room in their lodgings or houses as a chapel; 
 and most of the taverns near the Fleet kept their own registers. In 1702, 
 the Bishop of London interfered to prevent this scandalous practice, but 
 with little effect ; and it was not until the Act of Parliament came into 
 operation, March 25, 1754, that the custom was put an end to. On the 
 day previously, (March 24,) in one register-book alone, were recorded 
 217 marriages, which were the last of the Fleet weddings. In 1821, a 
 collection of these register-books, weighing more than a ton (recording 
 Fleet marriages between 1686 and 1754), was purchased by Government, 
 and deposited in the Registry Office of the Bishop of London, Godliman- 
 street, Doctors' Commons. Many celebrated names figure in these regis- 
 ters ; and although they are not now, as formerly, received in evidence 
 on trials, they are not altogether useless as matters of record, &c. For 
 their history, their parsons and registers, see Mr. J. Burns' volume. 
 
 Pope commemorates the Fleet Prison as a " Haunt of the Muses." Here 
 
FLEET RIVER AND FLEET DITCH. 503 
 
 j were confined Lord Surrey, the soldier-poet ; Nash, the fantastical satirist (" Pierce 
 'Penniless"); Dr. Donne, for his secret marriage ; Wycherley, the peet. here for 
 'seven years; Richard Savage (in "the Rules"); and Richard Lloyd, the friend 
 !of Churchill, who was married in the Fleet. Here died Sir Richard Baker, the 
 (chronicler; and Francis Sandford, the genealogist. Arthur Murphy, provoked by 
 the satires of Churchill and Lloyd, describes them as among the poor hacks 
 
 " On Ludgate-hill who Woody murders write, 
 Or pass in Fleet-street supperless the night." 
 
 Howel's Letters, already mentioned, have had a parallel in our time, in 
 Richard Oastler's Fleet Papers, " a weekly epistle on public matters," inscribed 
 to Thomas Thornhill, Esq. of Fixby Hall, Yorkshire, whose steward Oastler had 
 been, and at whose suit he was imprisoned here ; he was liberated by subscription, 
 Feb. 12, 1844. 
 
 FLEET RIVER AND FLEET DITCH. 
 
 The small, rapid stream Fleet, which has given name to the prison 
 and street, and the portion of the City Wall ditch from Holborn to the 
 Thames, has its origin in a nursery-ground on the eastern ridge of 
 Hampstead Hill. Here it becomes a sewer, after which it issues from 
 the side of a bank below "Well Walk; and then flows down a small 
 valley of gardens and orchards to near the reservoir of the Hampstead 
 (water-heads, to feed which the springs of the Fleet were collected in 
 1 1589, and were afterwards leased out by the City of London. From 
 Hampstead the Fleet may be traced to the upper p'art of Kentish Town, 
 after which it is diverted from its original course for the sewerage of 
 Camden Town ; but its ancient channel may be traced at the back of 
 the Castle Tavern, Kentish Town, and next in the King's-road, near Pan- 
 eras Workhouse; and about 1825, the Fleet was conspicuous all along 
 the Bag nigge- Wells road, but is now covered over. Its further course 
 I is under the walls of the House of Correction, in Clerkenwell Fields, 
 thence to the workhouse in Coppice- row, under Eyre-street (formerly 
 Hockley-in-the-Hole), having here been formerly joined by "the River 
 of the Wells," formed by Clerken, Skinners', and other wells ; and thus 
 to the bottom of Holborn. Here it received the waters of the Old 
 Bourne, which rose near Middle-row, and the channel of which forms 
 the sewer of Holborn Hill to this day. Thence the united streams 
 i flowed beneath what is now called Farringdon-street into the Thames. 
 Stow mentions, " that a Parliament being holden at Carlisle in the 
 I year 1307, the 35 Edward I., Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne complained, 
 I that whereas (in times past) the course of water, running at London 
 under Old-borne bridge, and Fleet bridge, into the Thames, had beene 
 of such bredth and depth that ten or twelve ships, Navies at once, with 
 Merchandises, were wont to come to the aforesaid bridge of Fleet, and 
 some of them unto Old-borne Bridge," &c. 
 
 An anchor has been discovered as high as the present Bagnigge- 
 Wells road; and even, it is said, the remains of a ship, in the bed of this 
 ancient river, near Camden Town. 
 
 The upper supply of water being diverted, the ditch became stag- 
 nant, and into it were thrown all sorts of offal, dogs and cats, and 
 measled hogs, which Ben Jonson has minutely described : it became 
 also a sort of cloaca maxima, impassable with boats ; in 1652 it was 
 ordered to be cleansed, but the nuisance was scarcely abated. 
 
 The Fleet was anciently crossed by four bridges within the boundary 
 of the city : the first of these, Holborn Bridge, was covered up in 1802, 
 but the arch and part of the parapet were discovered during a repair of 
 the ditch, in 1841. The second was Fleet-lane Bridge, near the Prison. 
 In the bed of the Fleet many Roman and Saxon coins have been discovered. 
 In 1670, various Roman utensils were found between Holborn and Fleet Bridge; 
 besides Roman coins, including silver ring-money. At Holborn Bridge were 
 
304 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 dug up two brazen lares, about four inches long, 'Bacchus and Ceres; also 
 arrow-heads, scales, and seals, with the proprietors' names upon them in Saxon 
 characters; spur-rowels, keys, and daggers; medals, crosses, crucifixes, &c. 
 
 Fleet Bridge, the third, connected Fleet-street with Ludgate Hill ; 
 it was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; and in its place, another, 
 the breadth of the street (Strype), was erected, ornamented with pine- 
 apples and the City arms : it was finally removed in 1765. A fourtl 
 bridge crossed the Fleet opposite Bridewell, formerly the site of a 
 tower, supposed to have appertained to the Saxon kings of England. 
 
 After the Great Fire, the Fleet, or Town Ditch, between Holborr 
 and the Thames, was cleansed and deepened by the Corporation, sc 
 that barges ascended to Holborn Bridge, as formerly : wharfs and land- 
 ing-places were constructed; and Seacoal and Newcastle lanes, ane 
 large inn-yards, remaining to this day, attest the barge traffic. Thii 
 " New Canal," as it was called, cost 27,777*., but proved unprofitable 
 it became choked with Thames mud, and again relapsed into a commoi 
 sewer. Gay sings of its " muddy current;" and Pope points 
 " To where Fleet ditch, with disemboguing streams, 
 Rolls the large tribute of dead dogs to Thames ; 
 The king of dykes, than whom no slime of mud 
 With deeper sable blots the silver flood." The Dunciad. 
 Swift thus revels in its delicice, in his City Shower : 
 " Now from all parts the swelling kennels flow, 
 And bear their trophies with them as they go; 
 Filth of all hues and odours seem to tell 
 What street they sail'd from by their sight and smell. 
 They, as each torrent drives its rapid force, 
 From Smithfield to St. 'Pulchre's shape their course, 
 And in huge confluence joined at Snowhill ridge, 
 Fall from the Conduit prone to Holborn Bridge; 
 Sweepings from butchers' stalls, dung, guts, and blood, 
 Drown'd puppies, stinking sprats, all flrench'd in mud, 
 Dead cats, and turnip-tops, come tumbling down the flood." 
 The ditch, however, grew to be so pestilential a nuisance,* its slim 
 smothering many persons who fell into it, that the space between Hoi 
 born Bridge and Fleet-street was arched over, and Stocks Marke 
 removed here, changed to Fleet Market, and opened for the sale o 
 meat, fish, and vegetables Sept. 30, 1737 ; and upon the site of Stock 
 Market was built the Mansion House. The remaining portion of th 
 Fleet, the mouth of which Pennant describes as "a muddy and genuin 
 ditch," continued open until 1765, at the building of Blackfriars Bridge 
 the foul stream was then arched over, and it now enters the Thame 
 on the west side of the bridge, and is conveyed some distance into th 
 river by a culvert : the vaulting at this end is 12 feet high, and th 
 channel 18 feet wide. 
 
 " Here many persons enter at low tide, armed with sticks to defend themselve 
 from rats, as well as for sounding on their perilous way among the slimy shallows 
 and carrying a lantern to sight the dreary passages, they wander for miles unde 
 the crowded streets, in search of such waifs as are carried there from abovt 
 A more dismal pursuit can scarcely be conceived : so near to the great concours 
 of London streets, that the rolling of the numerous vehicles incessantly thundei 
 ing overhead, and even the voices of wavferers, are heard, where, here and there, 
 grating admits the light of day ; yet so utterly cut off from all communion with th 
 busy world above, so lonely in the very heart of the great and populous ci'y, tha 
 of the thousands who pass along, not one is even conscious of the proximity c 
 the wretched wanderer creeping in noisome darkness and peril beneath his very tee 
 A source of momentary destruction ever lurking in these gloomy regions exist 
 
 * Chamberlayne (1727), however, mentions it as "a mighty chargeable an 
 beautiful work : the curious stone bridges over it ; the many huge vaults on eac 
 side thereof, to treasure up Newcastle coals lor the use of the poor." 
 
FLEET- STREET. 305 
 
 in the gases, which generate in their confined and putrefying atmosphere, and 
 sometimes explode with a force sufficient to blow up the very masonry; or which, 
 taking light fiom the lantern, might envelope the miserable intruder in sudden 
 flame. Many venturers may have sunk down in such a dismal pilgrimage, to be 
 heard of no more; may have fallen suddenly choked, sunk bodily in the treache- 
 rous slime, become a prey to swarms of voracious rats, or have been overwhelmed 
 by a sudden increase of the polluted stream." Archer's Vestiges of Old London, 
 Part III., with an interior View of the Ditch. 
 
 Since 1841, Fleet Ditch, at the back of Field-lane, has been covered 
 over; but it may be traced in the alleys at the back of Cow-cross, 
 whence it continues open to Ray-street, Clerkenwell ; while Brookhill 
 and Turnmill streets keep in memory the brook which ran here into 
 the Fleet, and the mill belonging to the Knights of St. John of Jerusa- 
 lem, which was turned by its waters. 
 
 In 1829 was completed a new market between the west end of Far- 
 ringdon-street and Shoe-lane ; whither, in Nov. 20, was removed Fleet 
 Market, the premises of which were then taken, down. At the south end 
 of Farringdon-street is a granite obelisk, erected in 1839 to the memory 
 of Alderman Waithman, who commenced business as a linendraper close 
 to this spot in 1785: was Lord Mayor in 1823-24, and was returned 
 six times to Parliament for the city of London. Opposite Waithman's 
 obelisk is a monument which bears the name of a much less worthy 
 man, John Wilkes, and the year of his mayoralty, 1775. 
 
 FLEET-STREET, 
 
306 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 man's shop, whither he removed from the south end of Fleet Market. 
 At No. 37, the sign of the Red Lion, Hardham's 37 snuff was first 
 made and sold by John Hardham, olim Garrick's " numberer." 
 
 In Bride-lane is the ancient St. Bride's Well, over which is a pump ; 
 and here is Coders' Hall, a tavern,where the Cogers have met since 1756. 
 
 In Shoe-lane, leading to Holborn-hill, was a notorious cockpit in 
 Pepys's time : at the north end, from 1378 to 1647, was the town-house 
 of the Bishop of Bangor ; and a part of the garden, with lime-trees 
 and a rookery, existed in 1759 ; the mansion was taken down in 18:28. 
 Shoe-lane is associated with four poets : in the burial-ground of St. 
 Andrew's workhouse, now covered by Farringdon Market, was buried 
 Chatterton ; in St. Andrew's churchyard lies Henry Neele ; in Gun- 
 powder-alley, in 1658, died in abject poverty Richard Lovelace, the 
 cavalier poet, " the most amiable and beautiful person that eyes ever be- 
 held ;"* in 1749, in a wretched lodging off Shoe-lane, died Richard Boyce. 
 In Gunpowder-alley, too, lived Evans, the astrologer, the friend and 
 instructor of Lilly, 'the " Sidrophel" of Hudibras. 
 
 Opposite Shoe-lane was the famous Fleet-street Conduit. (See 
 page 125.) At No. 134, the Globe tavern, frequented by Goldsmith, and 
 Macklin the actor, was held the Robin Hood club. Salisbury -court, 
 nearly facing, was once the inn of the bishops of Salisbury ; then of the 
 Sackvilles, and was called Sackville House and Dorset House; whence 
 Dorset-street. After the Great Fire, Wren built for Davenent " the 
 Duke's Theatre," opened 1671, where Betterton played : it had a pic- 
 turesque front to the Thames; upon its site are the city Gas-works. Sa- 
 lisbury or Dorset-court had also its playhouse, originally the granary of 
 Salisbury House ; it was pulled down by sectarian soldiers in 1649, re- 
 built in 1660, but destroyed in the Great Fire. The court was a scene 
 of the mug-house riots of 1716, and here was a noted mug-house. In 
 Salisbury court (now square) Richardson wrote his Pamela, and printed 
 his own novels ; his printing-office being at the top of the court, now No. 
 76 Fleet-street : Goldsmith was once Richardson's " reader ;" and here 
 was printed Maitland's London, folio, 1739. Richardson was visited 
 here by Hogarth, Dr. Johnson, Dr. Young ; Seeker, Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury ; and Mrs. Barbauld, when a playful child. 
 
 Water-lane (now Whitefriars-street) leads to Whitefriars, namec 
 from a convent of white-robed Carmelites, and called Alsatiafrom 1606 
 to 1696 (see Scott's Fortunes of Nigel); extending from Fleet-streei 
 to the Thames, and from the western side of Water-lane to the Temple 
 it was a privileged sanctuary, abolished 1697 : a notorious retreat foi 
 cheating creditors, had its cant Lombard-street ; and had many 
 Cheatly, Shamwell, Hackum, and Scapeall. (See Shadwell's Squire oj 
 Alsatia.) At the Harrow, in Water-lane, lived Filby, Goldsmith's tailor 
 No. 64 Fleet- street is the Bolt-in-Tun inn, named in a grant, 1443. 
 Opposite is Bolt -court, where, at No. 8, Dr. Johnson lived from 177( 
 till his death in 1784 ; while here, Johnson unsuccessfully applied (it 
 1776) to the Earl of Hertford, requesting apartments in Hampton Coun 
 Palace. Johnson's house was subsequently Bensley's printing-office 
 and was burnt June 26, 1819. The Johnson's Head tavern was not con- 
 temporary with the Doctor. (See Notes and Queries, No. 123.) A 
 No. 4, Ferguson, the astronomer, died Nov. 1776. In the court, Cob 
 bt't wrote, printed, and published his Politico 1 Register, and sold Indiai 
 corn. No. 3 was bequeathed to the Medical Society of London by Dr 
 Lettsom ; over the door is an emblematic bas-relief. The Society re 
 moved, in 1851, to 33 George-street, Hanover- square. 
 
 * George Petty, haberdasher, in Fleet-street, carried twenty shillings to Love 
 
 lace every Monday morning, from Sir Many, and Charles Cotton, Esq., fo 
 
 mouths, until the poet's death. 
 
FLEET-STREET. 307 
 
 Wine-office-court: Goldsmith lodged here in 1761, when Johnson 
 i first visited him; Goldsmith then wrote for the Public Ledger news- 
 j paper, and began the Vicar of Wakefteld. Here is a good old chop- 
 house, the Cheshire Cheese. 
 
 Johnsons-court : at No. 7 Samuel Johnson lived 1765 to 1776 ; the 
 John Bull newspaper was commenced here, at No. 11, in 1820. North- 
 I ward is Gough- square, where, at No. 17, Johnson compiled the greater 
 ! portion of his Dictionary, 1748 to 1758. 
 
 Serjeants' Inn, on the south side of Fleet-street, was formerly an inn 
 I of court ; the handsome offices were designed by Adam. No. 13 Fleet- 
 j street, the Amicable Life Assurance office, was rebuilt in 1839 ; the 
 j Society was first chartered by Queen Anne. 
 CRANE-COURT. (See page 237.) 
 
 Red Lion- court : printing-offices of John Nichols (Gentleman's 
 Magazine), burnt Feb. 8, 1808 ; of Messrs. Valpy (Classics), \vherePunch 
 is now printed ; and of Richard Taylor, F. K. S. (Philosophical Mag.) 
 
 Mitre-court : Mitre tavern, the favourite rendezvous of Dr. John- 
 son's evening parties, including Goldsmith, Percy, Hawksworth, and 
 Boswell; here was planned the Tour to the Hebrides. Johnson had a 
 strange nervous feeling, which made him uneasy if he had not touched 
 every post between the Mitre and his own lodgings. Chamberlain 
 Clark, who died in 1831, aged 92, was the last surviving of Dr. Johnson's 
 Mitre friends. William Scott (Lord Stowell) also frequented this 
 tavern. Here, in 1640, Lilly met old "Will Poole, the astrologer, then 
 living in Ram-alley ; the Royal Society Club dined at the Mitre from 
 1743 to 1750, the Society then meeting in Crane-court. Mitre-court 
 was a sanctuary, abolished 1697. 
 FETTER-LANE. (See page 290.) 
 
 Hare-court (originally Ram-alley), opposite Fetter-lane, was for- 
 merly noted for its public-houses and cook-shops, often mentioned in 
 the 17th-century plays; and was a sanctuary until 1697. 
 
 In Fleet-street were the earliest printing-offices and stationery 
 
 \ marts for books : Wynkyn de Worde (assistant of Caxton) at the signs 
 
 | of the Golden Sun, Swan,* and Falcon, the latter in Falcon-court; in 
 
 | the house over which (32 Fleet-street) lived John Murray, sen., the 
 
 publisher. In Fleet-street, too, were the printing-houses of Richard 
 
 Pynson; Rastall (Star); Tottel (Hand and Star), afterwards Jaggard 
 
 and Joel Stephens, in part of Dick's Coffee-house. (See Cunningham's 
 
 Hand-book, p. 188.) Among the booksellers was Bernard Lintot 
 
 (Cross Keys), "between the two Temple gates;" and against Old St. 
 
 Dunstan's Church, Edmund Curll (Dial and Bible). 
 
 Here, also, are the oldest banking firms, except Stone, Martin and 
 Co., Lombard-street, who claim to be the successors of Sir Thomas 
 Gresham. No. 1 Fleet Street (formerly the Marygold) is the banking- 
 house of Child and Co., who date from soon after the Restoration; 
 they occupy the rooms over Temple -bar for their books of accounts. 
 
 The principal of the firm is the Countess of Jersey, wife of George Child 
 Villiers, Earl of Jersey, who assumed the name of Child upon his Countess in- 
 heriting the estates ot her maternal grandfather, Robert Child, Esq., of Osterley 
 
 * Imprint to the " Demaundes Joyous :" 
 
 " Emprynted at London in Fletestre 
 
 te at the signe of the Swane by 
 
 me Wynkyn de Worde 
 
 In the yere of our 
 
 lorde A M 
 
 c c ccc 
 
 and xi 
 
308 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Park, Middlesex. " In the catalosue of a sale of prints, &c., by Mr. Hodgson, 
 9th June, 1834, lot 270, is an original sketch in oil hy Hogarth, representing a 
 memorable occurrence in the house of Child and Co., when they were delivered 
 by temporary munificence of the Duchess of Marlborough." 
 
 Next is Gosling's, No. 19, sign of Three Squirrels in the iron- work 
 of a window, originally on a lozenge shield. 
 
 Gosling, as founder of the house, is thus mentioned in 'he account of Secret 
 Service Monies of Charles II. and James I. : " To Richard Bakenhnm, in full, for 
 several parcells of gold and silver lace, bought of William Gostling and partners, 
 on 2d May, 1674, by the Dutchess of Cleveland, for the wedding-clothes of the 
 Lady Sussex and Lichfie'd, 640J. 8*. 
 
 Messrs. Hoares', No. 37 (Golden Bottle), dates from 1680. 
 
 Richard Hoare, Esq., the principal of the firm, succeeded SirF. Child as Alder- 
 man o' the Ward of Farringdon Without; was Sheriff in 1740-41, in -which year 
 there were three Lord Mayors. Mr. Hoare has left a manuscript joumal of his 
 shrievalty, illustrating various customs, privileges, and " treats" of the City, and 
 concluding thus: "after being regaled with sack and walnuts, I returned to my 
 own house in my private capacity, to my great consolation and comfort." Hewai 
 Lord Mayor in 1746. 
 
 The old Fleet-street taverns and coffee-houses are mostly vp pas- 
 sages : upon the site of Child's-place was the Devil tavern, sign St. 
 Dunstan pulling the Devil's nose : here, in the Apollo chamber, over 
 the door, were inscribed the verses by Jonson, commencing, 
 
 " Welcome, all who lead or follow, 
 To the oracle of Apollo." 
 
 Here Ben Jonson and his sons used to make their liberal meetings; 
 the rules of Ben's Club in gold letters over the chimney. (Tatler, No. 
 79.) These are preserved in the premises, at the back of Child's bank, 
 No. 1, with a terra-cotta bust of Apollo: the contemporarv landlord 
 was Sim Wadlow, "the king of skinkers." (Jonson.) The club-room, 
 fitted with a music-gallery, was afterwards used for balls and entertain* 
 ments ; and the house continued to be the resort of the wits of the last 
 century: "I dined to-day" (Oct. 12, 1710) "with Dr. Garth and Mr. 
 Addison, at the Devil tavern, near Temple-bar ; and Garth treated." 
 (Journal to Stella.) Here Dr Johnson presided at a supper cele- 
 brating the publication of Mrs. Lennox's first book, when the whole 
 night was spent in festivity : the tavern was taken down in 1788. Oppo- 
 site, is Apollo-court; and next door east, is the Cock tavern, with an 
 old carved and gilt sign-bird. (See TAVERNS.) The Horn Tavern, now 
 Anderton's Hotel, No. 164, was famous in 1604. (See COFFEE-HOUSES : 
 Dick's, Rainbow, and Peele's, pp. 201-3-4.) 
 
 One of the Curiosities of Fleet-street was Mrs. Salmon's Moving Waxwork, 
 originally established at the Golden Salmon, St. Martin's, near Aldersgate (Harl. 
 Ms. 5931. Brit Mus.): "it would have been ridiculous for tlie ingenious Mrs. Sal- 
 mon to have lived at the sign of the Trout." (The Spectator, No. 28.) Thence 
 the Waxwork was removed to No. 189 Fleet-street, sre of Messrs. Praed's 
 banking house. At the death of Mrs. Sab- on, a#ed 90, the collection was pur- 
 chased by Mr. Clarke, a surgeon, (father of Sir Charles Mansfield Clarke, M.D.), 
 as an investment for his wife. Mrs. Clarke continued the exhibition as Mrs. 
 Salmon's, at No. 189, until 1795, when it was removed to No 17, nearly opposite, 
 at the east corner of Inner Temple-lane ; and here shewn, with a figure of Anne 
 Siggs, on crutches, at the door, until Mrs Clarke's death in 1812. The collec- 
 tion, much reduced, was then sold for 50/., and subsequeiitly shewn at the west 
 corner of Water-lane. No. I/ Fleet-street (now a hairdresser's,) is advertised as 
 "formerly the Palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey " Mr*. Salmon, with 
 more probability, styled it " once the Palace of Henry Prince of Wales, son of King 
 James I. ;" but this residence is not mentioned by his biographers : the first-floor 
 front-ff-om has, however, an enriched plaster ceiling, inscribed P. (triple plun e) 
 H., which, with part of the carved wainscoting, denote the house to be of the 
 time of James I. 
 
FOG OF LONDON. 309 
 
 Wax -work and nine-day wonders are still to be seen east of St. 
 J Dunstan's Church. In the bay-windowed house, Nos. 184 and 185, lived 
 I Drayton, the poet. West of St. Dunstan's is the Law Life Assurance 
 Office, of James I. street-architecture, built by Shaw in 1834 : next is the 
 passage to Clifford's Inn. Chaucer, when a student of the Inner Temple, 
 was tined '2s. by the Society for beating a Franciscan friar in Fleet-street ; 
 j so states Speght, the illustrator of the poet. Cowley was born near 
 j Chancery-lane; his father was a grocer. Isaac Wai on lived two doors 
 west of Chancery-lane, whither, in 1632, he removed. (See CHANCERY- 
 LANE, p. 70.) At No. 197 was Rackstrow's Anatomical Museum, and 
 collection of natural and artificial curiosities, natural magic, &c., exhi- 
 i bited from 1736 to 1798. Bell-yard and Fetter-lane were once noted 
 for fishing-tackle shops, of which few remain. 
 
 Shire-lane (now Lower Serle's-place), hard by Temple-bar, named 
 from its dividing the City from the Shire, was once a place of note. 
 Here was born Sir Charles Sedley, the poet, and witty contemporary 
 of Rochester ; here lived Elias Ashmole, by turns astrologer, alchemist, 
 and antiquary, who called " father" one Backhouse, an adept, in Fleet- 
 street, over against St. Dunstan's Church. 
 
 j In 1658, Ashmole left the astrologers and alchemists ; in 1660, he was called 
 j to the bar in M.ddle Temple Hall; and on Jan. 26, 1679, hy a fire in his chambers 
 in the Middle Temple, he lost most of his Horary, a cabinet of 9000 coins, besides 
 seals, charters, &c., and a curious collection of engraved portraits. 
 
 At the upper end of Shire-lane lived Isaac Bickerstaff, the Tatler, 
 who led the deputation of " Twaddlers" down the lane, across Fleet- 
 street, to Dick's Coffee-house. At the Trumpet (afterwards the Duke's 
 Head) public- house, in Shire-lane, the Tatler met his club; and in the 
 lane lived Christopher Katt, at whose house originated the Kit-Kat 
 Club. (See p. 195.) 
 
 Fleet-street was the scene of the annual grand burning of the Pope (on 
 Nov 17,) in the reign of Charles II.; the torchlight procession beginning at 
 Moorfields. and ending at Fleet-street, where the effigies of the Pope was burnt, 
 | opposite Middle Temple-gate. These saturnalia were kept up until after the 
 expulsion of James II.; when the anti-popish mummery was transferred to 
 Nov. 5. (See TEMPLE and '1 EMPLE BAR.) 
 
 FOG OF LONDON. 
 
 This phenomenon is caused by the half million of blazing coal-fires in 
 the metropolis contributing a vast quantity of fuliginous matter, which, 
 mingling with the vapour, partly arising from imperfect drainage, pro- 
 duces that foggy darkness, which Londoners not inaptly term "awful." 
 Sometimes it is of a bottle-green colour ; but if the barometer rise, it 
 will either totally disappear or change into a white mist. At other 
 times it is of pea-soup yellow; in the midst of which the street gas- 
 lights appear like the pin-head lamps of old. The latter is the genuine 
 "London Fog." 
 
 " First at the dawn of lingering day, 
 It rises of an ashy gray ; 
 Then deeping with a sordid stain 
 Of yellow, like a lion's mane. 
 Vapour importunate and dense, 
 It was at once with every sense. 
 The ears escape not. All around 
 Returns a dull, unwonted sound. 
 Loath to stand still, atraid to stir, 
 The chilled and puzzled passenger, 
 Oft blundering from the pavement, fails 
 To feel his way along the rails ; 
 Or at the crossings, in the roll 
 
310 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Of every carriage dreads the pole. 
 
 Scarce an eclipse with pall so dun 
 
 Blots from the face of heaven the sun. 
 
 But soon a thicker, darker cloak 
 
 Wraps all the town, behold, in smoke, 
 
 Which steam-compelling trade disgorges 
 
 From all her furnaces and forges 
 
 In pitchy clouds too dense to rise, 
 
 Descends rejected from the skies ; 
 
 Till struggling day, extinguished quite, 
 
 At noon gives place to candle-light." Henry Luttrel. 
 
 The fog too sensibly affects the organs of respiration : hence, a Scotch 
 physician has asked, " if a person require half a gallon of pure air per 
 minute, how many gallons of this foul atmosphere must be, as it were, 
 filtered by his lungs in the course of a day ?" 
 
 Sometimes the fog is caused by a very ordinary accident, a change of 
 wind, thus accounted for : the west wind carries the smoke of the town 
 eastward, in a long train, extending twenty or thirty miles ; as may be 
 seen in a clear day from an eminence five or six miles from the town, 
 say, from Harrow-on-the-Hill. In this case, suppose the wind to change 
 suddenly to the east, the great body of smoke will be brought back in 
 an accumulated mass ; and as this repasses the town, augmented by the 
 clouds of smoke from every fire therein, it causes the murky darkness. 
 
 By accurate observation of the height of the fog, relatively with the 
 higher edifices, whose elevation is known, it has been ascertained that 
 the fogs of London never rise more than from 200 to 240 feet above the 
 same level. Hence, the air of the more elevated environs of the metro- 
 polis is celebrated for its pure and invigorating qualities, being placed 
 above the fogs of the plain, and removed from smoky and contaminated 
 atmosphere. The height of the Norwood hills, for example, is 390 feet 
 above the sea-level at low water ; and thus enjoys pre-eminent salubrity. 
 
 FORTIFICATIONS. 
 
 The defence of the City of London by the wall built by our later Roman 
 colonists has been already described. (See CITY. WALL AND GATES, 
 p. 184.) In later times, the metropolis had again to be fortified. 
 
 During the Civil Wars, in 1642, the Parliament ordered that trenches 
 and ramparts should be made near the highways leading to the City, 
 and in different parts about London and Westminster. These fortifi- 
 cations consisted of a strong earthen rampart, flanked with bastions, 
 redoubts, &c., surrounding the whole city and its liberties, including 
 Southwark. In Tyburn Road, in 1643, there were three forts erected, 
 viz. a redoubt, with two flanks, near St. Giles's Pound; a small fort at 
 the east end of the road; and a lanje fort with four half bulwarks, 
 across the road opposite Wardour-street. From The Perfect Diurnal 
 of this period, we gather that many thousands of men, women, and ser- 
 vants assisted in the works; as did also a great company of the Com- 
 mon Council, and other chief men of the City, and the Trained Bands, 
 with spades, shovels, and pickaxes; also feltmakers, cappers, shoe- 
 makers, and porters, to the number of many thousands, assisted in 
 raising the defences. 
 
 Upon the site of Mount-street was the fort of " Oliver's Mount ;" 
 and on the ground now occupied by Hamilton-place at Hyde-Park- 
 corner was a large fort with four bas'tions. 
 
 " From ladies down to oyster-wenches, 
 
 Labour'd like pioneers in trenches." Butler's Hudibras, Part ii. Canto 2. 
 The women, and even the ladies of rank and fortune, not only encouraged the 
 men, but worked with their own hands. Lady Middlesex, Lady Foster, Lady 
 
FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 311 
 
 Anne Walker, and Mrs. Dunch, have been particularly celebrated for their ac- 
 'tivity. Dr. Nash's Notes. 
 
 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL (THE), 
 
 'In Guilford-street, was established by Royal Charter, granted in 
 1739 to Thomas Corani (master of a trading vessel), " for the reception, 
 jmaintenince, and education of exposed and deserted young children," 
 ! in an hospital erected " after the example of France, Holland, and 
 other Christian countries." This shews that Coram contemplated the 
 indiscriminate admission of all foundlings, as is the case in the above 
 countries ; and such was the practice up to the commencement of the 
 piesent century. The Governors first opened a house in Hatton-garden, 
 on March 25, 1740-1 ; and any person bringing a child, rang the bell at 
 the inner door, and waited to hear if the infant was returned from 
 disease or at once received, no questions whatever being asked as to 
 whom the child belonged, or whence it was brought; and when the full 
 number of children had been taken in, a notice of " The House is full" 
 was affixed over the door : often there were 100 children offered, when 
 only twenty could be admitted; riots ensued, and thenceforth the 
 women balloted for admission by drawing balls out of a bag. 
 
 The present Hospital was built by Jacobson ; and the children, 600 
 
 in number, were removed there in 1754, when the expenses of the 
 
 establishment were more than five times the amount of the income. 
 
 The Governors then applied to Parliament, who voted them 10,000*?., 
 
 and sanctioned the general admission of children, the establishment of 
 
 country hospitals, &c.* A basket was hung at the gate of the hospital 
 
 in London, in which the children were deposited, after ringing a bell to 
 
 (jive notice to the officers in attendance, f On June 2d, 1756, the first 
 
 lay, 117 children were thus received ; and between that day and 
 
 December 31st, 1784, 3727 were admitted. In the year 1757 printed 
 
 jills were posted in the streets apprising the public of their privilege. 
 
 The consequences were lamentable : prostitution was greatly increased 
 
 b; this easy means of disposing of illegitimate offspring ; and from the 
 
 wait of means of rearing so many children, the greater number died : 
 
 of 14,934 children received in three years and ten months, 10,389 perished. 
 
 Atlength, in 1760, this indiscriminate admission was discontinued by Act 
 
 of Parliament, the legislature undertaking to support all the children 
 
 wlo had been already received at its suggestion. Still, so late as 1795 
 
 th practice of admitting children without inquiry, on payment of 100Z., 
 
 ha 1 ni.it become extinct ; but it was abolished in 1801. 
 
 'iogarth, one of the earliest "Governors and Guardians," greatly 
 assited his friend Captain Coram, whose full-length portrait he painted 
 and iresented to the Hospital, with other pictures. These were shewn 
 to th public, and became very attractive ; and out of this success grew 
 the fist Exhibition of the Royal Academy, in the Adelphi, in the year 
 1760. The painters often met at the Hospital ; the exhibition of their 
 pictuns drew daily crowds of spectators, in their splendid equipages ; 
 and a isit to the Foundling became the most fashionable morning lounge 
 of the reign of George II. The grounds in front of the Hospital were 
 a ^hionable promenade; and brocaded silks, gold-headed canes, 
 
 ranch establishments were opened in the country ; and at one of them 
 (AckMv-tij, j n Yorkshire) was made cloth, in suits of which several of the artist- 
 P atroi >appeared at the Festival of 1761. Another branch hospital was at 
 
 ' : of this JohnWilkes (M.P. for that borough) was appointed Treasurer; 
 but wne^ e j e f t t jj e ki n gd om j n 1754, his accounts were deficient. 
 
 Au -ed banker in the north of England, received into the Hospital, being 
 
 ous ascertaining his origin, all the information afforded by the books of 
 the establ, ment wagj that he was put into the b as k et a t the gate naked. 
 
312 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and laced three-cornered (Egham, Staines, and Windsor) hats, formed 
 a gay bevy in Lamb's- Conduit-fields. 
 
 The pictures represent the state of British art previously to the 
 patronage of West by George III. In the collection is Hogarth's March 
 to Finchley, and Moses brought to Pharaoh's Daughter ; Dr. Mead, bj 
 Allan Ramsay ; Handel, by Kneller ; Lord Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds; Views of the Foundling and St. George's Hospitals, by 
 Richard Wilson; the Charter- House (Sutton's Hospital), by Gains- 
 borough; Chelsea and Bethlem Hospitals, by Haytley; Christ's Hospital, 
 St. Thomas's and Greenwich Hospitals, by Wale ; a bas-relief by Rys- 
 brack ; and a bust of Handel, by Roubiliac. 
 
 The Chapel has an altar-piece (Christ presenting a little Chile), 
 painted by West. At the suggestion of Handel, the musical service rug 
 been a source of great profit to the Hospital funds. (See CHAPELS,', 
 p. 169.) Dr. Burney attempted to found an " Academy of Music" onl 
 this basis, just as an Academy of Arts had been raised; but the project 
 failed. Several blind children, who had been received into the Hospital] 
 during the indiscriminate admission, were trained as a choir. Mr. Gren- 
 ville, the organist : Mr. Printer, Miss Thetford, and Jenny Freer, 
 singers, were all blind foundlings. 
 
 Coram is buried in the vaults. Here also rest several benefactors, 
 including Lord Chief-Justice Tenterden, whose bust is at the eastern 
 entrance to the chapel: some verses written by his Lordship are sung 
 at the Festival of the Governors. Upon the lodges are two charac- 
 teristic bas-relief medallions, nicely executed. 
 
 From 17GO, the Institution ceased to be a hospital for foundlings 
 
 " A race unknown, 
 At doors expos'd, whom matrons call their own." Dryden. 
 
 Unfortunately, the name has been retained, and hence great misapprehension in 
 the public mind as to the present objects and purposes of the Charity. The 
 present practice of admitting children requires that they be illegitimate, except 
 the father be a soldier or sailor killed in the service of his country ; that the mothe/ 
 have borne a good character previous to her misfortune ; and that she be pof 
 and have no relations able or willing to maintain her child. There are other con- 
 ditions enforced by the Governors; their benevolent object being "to hide ue 
 shame of the mother, as well as to preserve the life of the hild," and dismiss jer 
 from the Hospital with the charge to "sin no more." There are several eloquint 
 defences of the objects of the Hospital. Sterne preached a sermon for the Cliarvy 
 in 1761 ; and the Rev. Sydney Smith was one of the appointed preachers. 
 
 There are at present 500 children supported by the Charity, from extreme 
 infancy to the age of fifteen; the Governors have not the privilege of presently 
 children, after the manner of 01 her establishments, the claim for admission c- 
 penriing upon the proven misery of the case. The general health of the chilc'en 
 wi'hin the walls of the Hospital is remarkably good; indeed, the building occi'ies 
 one of the healthiest sites in London. At an appreuticeable age, the girls anput 
 out to domestic service, and the boys to trades. 
 
 The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 50?. 
 of the Hospital is principally derived from the improved value c the 
 Lamb's-Conduit estate (56 acres), which the Governors purchase! as a 
 site for the Hospital, in 1741, for the sum of 5500Z., collected byaena- 
 factions and legacies ; when the Charity bought the whole estate, l0 ' 
 because they required it, but because the Earl of Salisbury, its ewer, 
 would not sell any fractional part of it. As London increased, itfP- 
 proached this property ; and the ground is now mostly covered/ 16 ' 
 squares and streets of houses, the ground-rents producing an # ln al 
 income equal to the purchase-money ! The Governors have H' w ise 
 established a Benevolent Fund, for the relief of aged and destitiY P e J- 
 sons who were inmates of the Hospital when infants. (SeeMeif an ^ a 
 of the Foundling Hospital, by John Brownlow, 1847.) / 
 
FOUNTAINS. 313 
 
 FOUNTAINS. 
 
 London has, in comparison with the Continental cities, but few de- 
 icorative Fountains, of " the nature that sprinkleth or spouteth water." 
 Early in the last century, however, the fountains were more numerous. 
 I Hat ton (1708) mentions in Privy Garden, at Somerset House, Middle 
 Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and King's Square, "the most publick ones." 
 The court-yards and gardens of mansions had also their fountains : 
 Montague House was celebrated for them. The courts of the Com- 
 panies' Halls and City-merchants' houses boasted of their fountains, a 
 few of which remain to this day, as in Mark-lane. The private garden 
 of Draper's Hall has a basin, with a fountain and statue. 
 
 Old Somerset House had its geometrical water-garden and fountain. 
 
 "Whitehall had its fountains; and Queen Elizabeth had a cascade 
 made to play in her gardens, which, when touched by a distant spring, 
 sprinkled all who approached it. 
 
 The King's (Soho) Square fountain had in the middle of the basin a 
 stone statue of Charles II. in armour, on a pedestal enriched with 
 crowns and foliage ; on the four sides of the base were as many figures, 
 with inscriptions, of the Thames, Severn, Tyne, and Humber rivers, 
 ! spouting water. The statue of Charles remains, but the basin has been 
 filled up, and is now a flower-garden. 
 
 St. James's- square had in its centre, in 1720, a basin with a jet of 
 water 15 feet high ; the basin was filled from York-buildings, was 6 
 or 7 feet deep, and 150 feet diameter, and upon it was kept a pleasure- 
 boat : the site is now occupied by an equestrian statue of William IIL 
 
 In the middle of New-square, Lincoln's Inn, was a fluted Corinthian 
 column, and a clock with three dials near its vertex ; and t each angle 
 of the pedestal was a Cupid blowing water through a short iwisited shell. 
 
 In the Benchers' Garden, Lincoln's Inn, in the centre of a basin, 
 was the figure of a mermaid rising out of reeds, with a lofty jet of water. 
 
 The fountain was a popular ornament of our old tea-gardens : Bag- 
 nigge Wells had a curious specimen half fountain, half grotto; and 
 the fountain lingers among the cool delights of Vauxhall Gardens. 
 
 Kensington Gardens had a lofty sculptured fountain in the basin 
 opposite the palace ; but here, and in the Parks, thejets-d'eau are now- 
 tasteless and unornamental. 
 
 The fountain in Fountain-court, Middle Temple, rises from a marble- 
 bordered basin, and in Hatton's time was kept " in so good order as 
 always to force its stream to a vast and almost incredible altitude. It 
 is fenced with timber palisades, constituting a quadrangle, wherein 
 grow several lofty trees, and without are walks extending on every 
 side of the quadrangle, all paved with Purbeck, very pleasant and de- 
 lightful." The timber palisades have given way to iron railing; the 
 jet is half-inch, and throws the water 10 feet height, and the effect of 
 its sound and sparkle through the trees is very refreshing. Miss Landon 
 has left a poem of pensive beauty, commencing thus : 
 
 " The fountain's low singing is heard on the wind, 
 Like a melody bringing sweet fancies to mind ; 
 Some to grieve, some to gladden : around them they cast 
 The hopes of the morrow, the dreams of the past. 
 Away in the distance is heard the vast sound, 
 From the streets of the city that compass it round, 
 Like the echo <;f fountains or ocean's deep call: 
 Yet that founiain's low singing is heard over all." 
 
 The pair of fountains and basins in Trafalgar square are the largest 
 works of the kind in the metropolis. They were designed by Sir C. 
 Barry, R. A., and executed in Peterhead granite by M'Donald and Leslie, 
 
314 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Aberdeen. Around each base are four dolphins' heads and fins, sup- 
 porting a large flat vase and a pedestal, with a smaller vase, in the 
 centre of which is the jet whence the water is thrown up ; while a flat 
 stream issues from each of the dolphins' mouths. The water is sup- 
 plied from two Artesian wells, one in Orange-street, 300 feet deep, 
 and the other in front of the National Gallery, 395 feet, connected at 
 170 feet depth by a tunnel to contain 70,000 gallons of water; the 
 wells and tunnel at rest holding about 122,000 gallons. The wells are 
 worked, the jets of the fountains thrown, and the water otherwise sup- 
 plied, by a large Cornish pumping steam-engine, and a small inverted 
 direct-action engine : outlay, 9000Z. ; annual rent, 500?. ; engineers, 
 Easton and Amos, Southwark. The contract for " spouting water" is 
 thirteen hours per day in summer, and in winter seven hours ; the 
 height oi the jets varies with the weather from 25 to 40 feet from the 
 ground ; supply, 500 gallons per minute ; to the Treasury, Admiralty, 
 Houses of Parliament, and other public offices, 100 gallons per minute. 
 In the ornamental garden adjoining the Bank (of England) Parlour, is 
 a stone basin, with a jet of water 20 feet high. 
 
 Fountains are useful ornaments of markets. At Billingsgate is a 
 cast-iron fountain, with a basin about 15 feet in diameter, and a stem of 
 rushes whence the water rises ; and around the basin-lip lie twelve dol- 
 phins, which discharge water for the use of the market-people. 
 
 FREEMASONS' HALL, 
 
 In the rear of Freemasons' Tavern, 62, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's 
 Inn Fields, was commenced Mav 1, 1775, from the designs of Thomas 
 Sandby, R.A., Professor of Architecture in the Royal Academy : 5000J. 
 was raised by a Tontine towards the cost ; and the Hall was opened and 
 dedicated in solemn form, May 23, 1776; Lord Petre, Grand-Master. 
 " It is the first house built in this country with the appropriate symbols 
 of masonry, and with the suitable apartments for the holding of lodges, 
 the initiating, passing, raising, and exalting of brethren." (Elmes.} 
 Here are held the Grand and other lodges, which hitherto assembled in 
 the Halls of the City Companies. 
 
 Freemasons' Hall, as originally decorated, is shewn in a print of 
 the annual procession of Freemason's Orphans, by T. Stothard, R.A., 
 It is a finely-proportioned room, 92 feet by 43 feet, and 60 feet high; 
 and will hold 1500 persons : it was re-decorated in 1846 : the ceiling 
 and coving are richly decorated ; above the principal entrance is a large 
 gallery, with an organ ; and at the opposite end is a coved recess, 
 flanked by a pair of fluted Ionic columns, and Egyptian doorways ; the 
 sides are decorated with fluted Ionic pilasters ;" and throughout the 
 room in the frieze are masonic emblems, gilt, upon a transparent blue 
 ground. In the intercolumniations are full-length royal and other ma- 
 sonic portraits, including that of the Duke of Sussex, as Grand-Master, 
 by Sir W. Beechey, R.A. In the end recess is a marble statue of the 
 Duke of Sussex, executed for the Grand Lodge, by E. H. Baily, R.A. 
 The statue is 7 feet 6 inches high, and the pedestal 6 feet ; the duke 
 wears the robes of a Knight of the Garter, and the Guelphic insignia; 
 at his side is a small altar, sculptured with masonic emblems. 
 
 The Hall is let for public dinners and meetings. Here meet the 
 Madrigal Society, the Melodists' and other musical clubs; and the 
 annual dinners of the Literary Fund and Artists' Societies, and other 
 public institutions, are given here. 
 
 St. Paul's. 604, and St. Peter's, Westminster, 605, were built by Freemasons. 
 Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, said to have built the White Tower, governed 
 the Freemasons. Peter of Colechurch, architect of old London Bridge, was 
 
FROSTS, AND FROST-FAIRS. 315 
 
 j Grand-Master. Henry VII., in a lodge of master Masons, founded his Chapel 
 'at Westminster Abbey. Sir Thomas Gresham, who planned the Royal Exchange, 
 ! was Grand-Master; as was also Inigo Jones, who built the Banqueting-House, 
 Whitehall ; Ashburnham House, Westminster, &c. Sir Christopher Wren, Grand- 
 j Master, founded St. Paul's with his Lodge of Masons, and the trowel and mallet 
 [then used are preserved. Covent Garden Theatre was founded, 1808, by the 
 | Prince of Wales, Grand-Master; and the Grand Lodge. 
 
 " The connexion between the operative masons and a convivial society of 
 Igoodtellows, who, in the xeign of Queen Anne, met at the < Goose and Gridiron, 
 in St. Paul his Church-yard.' appears to have been finally dissolved about the 
 (beginning if the eighteenth century. From an inventory of the contents of the 
 j chest of the Worshipful Company of Masons and Citizens of London, it appears not 
 long since to have contained a book wrote on parchment, or bound or stitched in 
 parchment, containing an 113 annals of the antiquity, rise, and progress of the art 
 and mystery of masonry. But this document is not now to be found." Sir 
 | F. Palgrave ; Edinburgh Review, April 1839. 
 
 FROSTS, AND FROST-FAIRS ON THE THAMES. 
 
 1281-2. " From this Christmas till the Purification of Our Lady, there was such 
 a frost and snow, as no man living could remember the like ; wherethrough, five 
 arches of London Bridge, and all Rochester Bridge, were borne downe and carried 
 away by the streame; and the like happened to many bridges in England. And, 
 not long after, men passed over the Thames, between Westminster and Lambeth, 
 dry-shod." Stow, edited by Howes, 1631. 
 
 1410. " Thys yere was the grete frost and ise and the most sharpest 
 wenter that ever man sawe, and it duryd fourteen wekes, so that men 
 myght in dyvers places both goo and ryde over the Temse." Chronicle 
 of the Grey Friars of London. 
 
 1434-5. The Thames frozen from below London Bridge to Graves- 
 end, from Dec. 25 to Feb. 10, when " the merchandise which came to 
 the Thames mouth was carried to London by land." Stow. 
 
 1506. " Such a sore snowe and a frost that men myght goo with 
 carttes over the Temse and horses, and it lastyd tylle Candelmas." 
 Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London. 
 
 1515. The Thames frozen, when carriages passed over the ice from 
 Lambeth to Westminster. 
 
 1564, Dec. 21. Stow and Holinshed state that on New-year's eve, 
 
 " People went over and alongst the Thames on the ise from London Bridge 
 to Westminster. Some plaied at the foot-ball as boldlie there, as if it had beene 
 on the drie land ; diverse of the Court being then at Westminster, shot dailie at 
 prickes set upon the Thames ; and the people, both men and women, went on 
 the Thames in greater numbers than in anie street of the City of London. On 
 the third dale of January at night, it began to thaw, and on the fifth there was 
 no ise to be scene between London Bridge and Lambeth, which sudden thaw 
 caused great floods and high waters, that bare downe bridges and houses, and 
 drowned manie people in England." 
 
 1608. Great frost described in Howes's continuation of Stow: 
 "The 8th of December began a hard frost, and continued until the 15th of 
 
 the same, and then thawed ; and the 22d of December it began againe to freeze 
 violently, so as divers persons went halfe way over the Thames upon the ice; and 
 the 30th of December, at every ebbe, many people went quite over the Thames 
 in divers places, and so continued from that day until the 3d of January." 
 From Jan. 10th to 15th, the ice became firm, and men, women, and children 
 went boldly upon it ; some shot at prickes, others bowled and danced, and many 
 " set up booths and standing upon the ice, as fruitsellers, victuallers, that sold 
 beere and wine, shoomakers, and a barber's tent:" the ice lasting until Feb. 2. 
 There is a very rare tract, describing this frost, mentioned by Gough, in his 
 British Topography, vol. i. p. 731, which has a woodcut representation of it, with 
 London Bridge in the distance; it is entitled " Cold Doings in London, except it 
 I be at the Lottery," c., 4to, 1608. 
 
 1609. Great frost commenced in October, and lasted four months. 
 The Thames frozen, and heavy carriages driven over it. 
 
316 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1683-4. From the beginning of December until the 5th of February, 
 frost " congealed the river Thames to that degree, that another city, 
 as it were, was erected thereon ; where, by the great number of streets 
 and shops, with their rich furniture, it represented a great fair, with a 
 variety of carriages, and diversions of all sorts ; and near Whitehall a 
 whole ox was roasted on the ice." (Maitland.) Evelyn, who was an 
 eye-witness of the scene, thus describes it, Jan. 24, 1684 : 
 
 _ " The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before London was 
 still planted with boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of trades and shops fur- 
 nished, and all full of commodities, even to aprinting-presse. where the people and 
 ladies tooke a fancy to have their names printed on the Thames, this humour 
 tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer gain'd 5/. a day for printing 
 a line onely. at sixpence a name, besides what he gor by ballads, &c. Coaches 
 plied from Westminster to the Temple, and from several other staires, to and fro, 
 as in the streeres ; sheds, sliding with skeetes, and bull-baiting, horse and coach 
 races, puppet-plays and inteiludes, cookes, tipling. and other lewd places; so 
 that it seemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water." 
 
 King Charles II. visited these diversions, and even had his name 
 printed on the ice, with those of several other personages of the royal 
 family. Mr. Upcott possessed a specimen, a quarter of a sheet of 
 coarse Dutch paper ; within a type border, were the names of 
 
 CHARLES, KING. 
 JAMES, DUKE. 
 K AT HE RISE, QUEEN. 
 MART, DUTCHESS. 
 ANNE. PRINCESS. 
 GEORGE, PRINCE. 
 HANS IN K.ELDER. 
 
 London : Printed by G. Croom, on the ICE, on 
 the River of Thames, January 31, 1684. 
 
 
 Feb. 6, the day after the break-up of this great frost, Charles II. died. 
 In some curious verses, entitled " Thamasis's Advice to the Painter, 
 from her frigid zone," &c., "printed by G. Croom, on the river of 
 Thames," occurs : 
 
 " To the Print-house go, 
 
 Where Men the Art of Printing soon do know ; 
 
 Where, for a Teasier, you may have your Name 
 
 Printed, hereafter for to show the same : 
 
 And sure, in former Ages, ne'er was found 
 
 A Press to print, where men so oft were dround !" 
 
 The principal scene of this "Blanket- Fair" was opposite the Temple- 
 stairs, as we see in a pencil and Indian-ink sketch, supposed by Thomas 
 "Wyote, dated " Munday, February the 4th, 1683-4 :" in front are various 
 groups of figures, and a line of tents ; " Temple-street" stretches across 
 the Thames. This drawing, with some prints, &c., illustrative of this 
 frost, is in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Museum. (See Thom- 
 son's Chronicles of London Bridge, pp. 469-717.) 
 
 1688-9. Great frost, Dec. 20 to Feb. 6: pools frozen 18 inches 
 thick, and the Thames' ice covered with streets of shops, bull-baiting, 
 shows, and tricks ; hackney-coaches plied in the ice-roads, and a coach 
 and six horses was driven from Whitehall almost to London Bridge ; 
 yet in two days all the ice disappeared. 
 
 1709. The Thames again frozen over, and some persons crossed it 
 on the ice : in the Crowle Pennant (Brit. Mus.) is a coarse bill, within 
 a woodcut border of rural subjects, containing, " Mr. John Heaton, 
 Printed on the Thames at Westminster, Jan. the 7th, 1709." 
 
FROSTS, AND FROST-FAIRS. 317 
 
 j 1715. Severe frost, from the end of November until Feb. 9 follow- 
 ing, when the sports of 1683 were all renewed : in the Crowle Pennant 
 j> a copperplate view, with a line of tents from Temple-stairs, and 
 jaother marked "Thames- street ;" " Printed on the Thames 1715-16 j" 
 nd above it, " Frost Fair on the River Thames." 
 
 i 1739-40. Dec. '25, another severe frost : the Thames floated with 
 locks and shoals of ice ; and when they fixed, represented a snowy field, 
 very where rising in masses and hills of ice and snow. Several artists 
 bade sketches ; tents and printing-presses were set up, and a complete 
 Prost Fair was again held upon the river, over which multitudes 
 lalked, though some fell victims to their rashness. It was in this fair 
 pat Doll, the pippin-woman, lost her life : 
 
 " Doll every day had walk'd these treacherous roads; 
 Her neck grew warp'd beneath autumnal loads 
 Of various fruit: she now a basket bore; 
 That head, alas ! shall basket bear no more. 
 Each booth sh- frequent cast, in quest of gain, 
 And boys with pleasuie heard her thrilling strain. 
 Ah, Doll ! all mortals must resign their breath, 
 And industry itself submit to death! 
 The crackling crystal yields ; she sinks, she dies, 
 Her head, chopt off. from her lost shoulders flies; 
 Pippins she cried, but death her voice confounds, 
 And pip, pip, pip, along the ice resounds." Gay's Trivia, b. ii. 
 
 nother remarkable character, "Tiddy Doll." died in the same place 
 nd manner. (J. T. Smith.) In the Crowle Pennant are several prints 
 f this Frost and Ice Fair. Some vintners in the Strand bought a 
 arge ox in Smithfield, to be roasted whole on the ice ; and one Hodge- 
 on, a butcher in St. James's Market, claimed the privilege of felling or 
 ;nocking down the beast as a right inherent in his family, his father 
 aving knocked down the ox roasted on the river in the Great Frost, 
 684; as himself did that roasted in 1715, near Hungerford Stairs: 
 lodgeson to wear a laced cambric apron, a silver-handled steel, and 
 hat and feathers. The breaking-up of this frost was an odd scene ; 
 he booths, shops, and huts being carried away by the swell of the 
 raters and the ice separating. 
 
 1768. A violent frost, Jan 1-21, when the piles of London Bridge 
 terlings were much damaged by the ice ; on Jan. 5, a French vessel 
 vas wrecked upon a sterling, and two others were driven through the 
 entre arch, losing their main-masts, and carrying away the lamps from 
 ,he parapet. 
 
 1789 Jan 8. The Thames frozen over, several purl-booths erected, 
 md many thousands of persons crossed upon the ice from Tower-wharf 
 :o the opposite shore. The frost had then lasted six weeks. No sooner 
 iad the Thames acquired a sufficient consistency, than booths, turn- 
 ibouts, &c., were erected; the puppet-shows, wild-beasts, &c., were 
 ransported from every adjacent village; and the watermen broke in 
 lie ice close to the shore, and erected bridges, with toll-bars, to make 
 jvery passenger pay a halfpenny for getting to the ice. A large pig 
 ivas roasted on one of the roads, and a young bear hunted on the ice 
 lear Rotherhithe ; and the printing-press was erected, as usual, to 
 lommemorate the strange scene. Vast quantities of boiling water 
 tvere every morning poured upon the bridge water-works, to set the 
 wheels in motion, and twenty-five horses were used daily to remove 
 he ice from around them ; while at Blackfriars the masses of ice were 
 18 feet thick. The sudden breaking up of the ice, with the rush of the 
 )eople to the shores, at night, was a fearful scene. A vessel lying off 
 'lotherhithe, fastened by a cable and anchor to a beam of a public- 
 
318 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 house, in the night, veered about and pulled the house to the ground 
 killing five sleeping inmates. 
 
 1811. January : the Thames frozen over. 
 
 1813-14. Great frost, commenced Dec. 27, with a thick fog, fol- 
 lowed by two days' heavy fall of snow. During nearly four weeks 
 frost, the wind blew almost uninterruptedly from the north and 
 north-east, and the cold was intense. The river was covered with 
 vast heaps of floating ice, bearing piles of snow, which, Jan. 26-29, 
 were floated down, filling the space between London and Blackfriars 
 Bridges ; next day, the frost recommenced, and lasted to Feb. 5, 
 uniting the whole into a sheet of ice. Jan. 30, persons walked over it; 
 and Feb. 1, the unemployed watermen commenced their ice-toll, bj 
 which many of them received tiZ. per day. The Frost Fair now com- 
 menced : the street of tents, called the City -road, put forth its gaj 
 flags, inviting signs, and music and dancing : a sheep was roasted 
 whole before sixpenny spectators, and the " Lapland mutton" sold at a 
 shilling a slice ! Printing-presses were set up, and among other re- 
 cords was printed the following : 
 
 jFrost jFatr. 
 
 Amidst the Arts -which on the THAMES appear, 
 To tell the wonders of this icy year, 
 PRINTING claims prior place, which at one view 
 Erects a monument of THAT and You. 
 
 Printed on the River Thames, February 4, in the 54th year of the reign 
 of King George III. Anno Domini 1814. 
 
 One of the invitations ran thus : 
 
 "You that walk here, and do design to tell 
 Your children's children what this year befell, 
 Come buy this print, and then it will be seen 
 That such a year as this hath seldom been." 
 
 Tn the Fair were swings, books-stalls, dancing in a barge, suttling- 
 booths, playing at skittles, frying sausages, &c. The ice and snow, in 
 upheaved masses, as a foreground to St. Paul's and the city, had a 
 striking effect; and the scene, by moonlight, was singularly pictur- 
 esque. On Feb. 5, the ice cracked, and floated away with booths, 
 printing-presses, &c. ; the last document printed being a jeu-de-moi 
 "to Madame Tabitha Thaw." Among the memorials is a duodecimo 
 volume, pp. 124, now before us. It is entitled " Frostiana ; or, a His- 
 tory of the River Thames in a frozen state, with an Account of the 
 late Severe Frost, &c. ; to which is added the Art of Skating. London : 
 Printed and published on the ICE on the River Thames, February 5, 
 1814, by G. Davis ;" the title-page was worked upon a large ice-island 
 between Blackfriars and "Westminster Bridges. In the Illustrated 
 London News, No. 138, is an engraving of the Frost Fair of 1814, 
 sketched near London Bridge, by Luke Clennell. 
 
 FULWOOD'S RENTS. 
 
 Vulgo, "Fuller's Rents," in Holborn, nearly opposite Chancery -lane, is 
 a court, now meanly inhabited ; but was of much better repute in the 
 time of James I., when its possessor, Christopher Fulwood, Esq., re- 
 sided here. Strype describes it as running up to Gray's Inn, "into 
 which it has an entrance through the gate" (now closed) ; "a place of 
 good resort, and taken up by coffee-houses, ale-houses, and houses of 
 entertainment, by reason of'its vicinity to Gray's Inn. On the east 
 side is a handsome open place, with a freestone pavement, and better 
 
GARDENS. 319 
 
 jjuilt, and inhabited by private housekeepers. At the upper end of this 
 bourt is a passage into the Castle Tavern, a house of considerable 
 ;,rade, as is the Golden Griffin Tavern, on the west side." Here was 
 jlohn's, one of the earliest coffee-houses; and adjoining Gray's Inn gate, 
 bn the west side, is a deep-coloured brick house, once Squire's coffee- 
 house, whence some of the Spectators are dated : it has been handsome 
 jmd roomy, with a wide staircase, but is now let in tenements. "Within 
 one door of Gray's Inn was New Ward's (London Spy) punch-house, 
 nuch frequented by the wits of the day : "W ard died here in 1731. The 
 Castle Tavern, mentioned by Strype, was many years kept by Thomas 
 Winter, (" Tom Spring,") the pugilist, who died here, August 20, 1851. 
 About the centre of the east side of Fulwood's Rents is a curious 
 Cabled and projecting house, temp James I. Mr. Archer has engraved 
 i ground-floor room, entirely paneled with oak; the mantel-piece is 
 veil carved in oak, with caryatides and arched niches; the ceiling 
 jeams are carved in panels; and the entire room is original, except the 
 vindow. A larger room on the first floor contains another old mantel- 
 >iece, very florid. The front of the house is said to be covered with 
 ornament, now concealed by plaster. ( Vestiges of Old London, part v.) 
 
 GARDENS. 
 
320 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ground. At Drury-lane commenced the village of St. Giles : near th 
 church were a few houses surrounded with trees. Beyond the churcl 
 all was open country, the main roads being distinguished by avenues o 
 trees. Leicester Fields and Soho were open ground. (See Coven 
 Garden, p. 235.) Spring Garden was literally a garden, reaching t< 
 the site of the present Admiralty. The dwellings in the lower part o 
 Westminster were inns and poor cottages, with small gardens. White 
 hall Palace had its stately gardens, as had also the several noble man 
 sions on the south side of the Strand. Isaac Walton quotes from a con 
 temporary German poet : 
 
 " So many gardens, dressed with curious care, 
 That Thames with royal Tiber may compare." 
 
 These gardens had their water-gates; one of which, York-Honsi 
 gate, built by Inigo Jones, remains, with a terrace shaded by lime-trees.' 
 
 Leicester House, at the north-east corner of Leicester- square, ha< 
 its spacious gardens, now the site of Lisle-street, built in 1791. 
 
 Holborn (Old-bourne) was famed for its gardens: Ely-place had it 
 kitchen and flower gardens, vineyard and orchard, and the bishops wen 
 celebrated for raising choice fruit. (See ELY PLACE, p. 270.) Befon 
 the vear 1597, John Gerrard, citizen and surgeon, had a large phvsic 
 garden near his house in Holborn, where he raised 1100 plants and trees 
 a proof " that our ground could produce other fruits besides hips an< 
 haws, acorns and pignuts." (Oldys.) 
 
 Baldwin's Gardens, between Leather-lane and Gray's-Inn-lane 
 were, according to a stone upon a corner-house bearing the arms o 
 Queen Elizabeth, named after Richard Baldwin, one of the royal gar 
 deners, who began building here in 1589. 
 
 Montague House, Bloomsbury, had its spacious gardens, "after thi 
 French manner ;" and the gardens of the houses in Great Russell-stree 
 were noted for their fragrance. Strype (1720) describes the north sidi 
 as having gardens behind the houses, with the prospect of pleasan 
 fields up to Hampstead and Highgate, " inasmuch as this place is es- 
 teemed the most healthful in London." 
 
 The garden of the Earl of Lincoln was highly kept, long before th< 
 mansion became an Inn of Court. The Earl's bailiff's accounts (2'. 
 Edward I.) shew it to have produced apples, pears, large nuts, am 
 cherries sufficient for the Earl's table, and to yield by sale in one yea] 
 135/., modern currency. The vegetables grown were beans, onions 
 garlick, leeks ; hemp was grown ; the cuttings of the vines much prized 
 of pear-trees there were several varieties ; the only flowers named ar< 
 roses. ( T. Hudson Turner.) The " walk under the elms," celebratec 
 by Ben Jonson, was a favourite resort of Isaac Bickerstaff. In 1 and i 
 Philip and Mary, the walk under the trees in the coney-garthf 01 
 cot trel- garden was made; and in 15 Car. II. A.D. 1663, the garden wai 
 enlarged, and a terrace-walk made on the left side; of which Pepyf 
 says: "to Lincoln's- Inn, to see the new garden which they are making 
 which will be very pretty." The garden-wall in Chancery-lane is saic 
 to have been partly the labour of Ben Jonson. 
 
 " Gray's Inn for walks, Lincoln's Inn for wall, 
 The Inner Temple for a garden, and the Middle for a hall." 
 
 (Lincoln's Inn; by W. H. Salisbury, Librarian, 1850.) 
 
 * The entrance-gate to the terrace, " Villiers Walk," was for some years kep 
 by Hugh Hewson, a hairdresser in M. Martin's parish, and the original of Hugl 
 Strap, in Smollett's Roderick Random: Hewson died in 1809, agen 85. 
 
 t The coney-garth was "well stocked with rabbits and game ," and by various 
 ordinances of the Society, temp Edw. IV., Hen. VII., and Hen. VIII., penalties 
 were imposed on the students hunting the rabbits with bows and arrows, or darts 
 
GARDENS. 321 
 
 The Inns of Court always boasted of their gardens. The Middle 
 Temple has its gardens with an avenue of limes ; the Inner Temple, 
 i more extensive garden and promenade. In "the Temple Garden," 
 phakspeare has laid the scene of the origin of the red and white roses as 
 he cognisances of the houses of York and Lancaster : Richard Plan- 
 agenet plucks a white rose, and the Earl of Somerset a red one ; an alter- 
 ation ensues, when the Earl of Warwick thus addresses Plantagenet : 
 " In signal of my love to thee, 
 
 Against proud Somerset and William Poole, 
 
 "Will I upon thy party wear this rose : 
 
 And here 1 prophesy, this brawl to day, 
 
 Grown to this faction, in the Temple Garden, 
 
 Shall send, between the red rose and the white, 
 
 A thousand souls to death and deadly night." 
 
 First Part of Henry VI. act ii. sc. 4. 
 
 The red and white Provens rose no longer blossoms here ; but both 
 he Temple Gardens are well kept, and chrysanthemums here attain 
 urprising perfection until mid-winter : 
 
 " Still lone, 'mid the tumult, these gardens extend ; 
 The elm and the lime over flower-beds bend ; 
 
 The boat, and the barge, and the wave, have grown red; 
 And the sunset has crimsoned the boughs over-head: 
 But the lamps are now shining, the colours are gone, 
 And the garden lies shadowy, silent, and lone." L. E. L. 
 
 Both Lincoln and Gray's Inn had an uninterrupted view over fields 
 :d gardens to Hampstead and Highgate, which had then scarcely lost 
 he rich woodland scenery of the ancient forest of Middlesex. 
 
 Gray 's-Inn Gardens were laid out under the direction of Lord Bacon. 
 
 In the 40 Eliz., at a pension of the bench, ' the summe of 71. 15s. 4d. laid 
 ut for planting elm trees' in these gardens, was allowed to Mr. Bacon (after- 
 ards Lord Verulam and Lord Chancellor). On the 14th November, in the 
 lowing year, there was an order made for a supply of more young elms; 
 ind it was ordered ' that a new rayle and quickset hedges ' should be set upon the 
 jipper long walk, at the discretion of Mr. Bacon and Mr. "Wilbraham ; the cost of 
 khich, as appeared by Bacon's account, allowed 20th April, 42 Eliz., was 601. 6*. 8d. 
 [ir. Bacon erected a summer-house on a small mount on the terrace, in which, 
 we may be allowed the conjecture, it is probable he frequently mused upon the 
 ubjects of those great works which have rendered his name immortal." Pearce's 
 'tins of Court. 
 
 To this day here is a Catalpa tree, raised from one planted by 
 jord Bacon, slips of which are much coveted. The walks were in high 
 Jashion in Charles II. 's time ; and we read of Pepys and his wife, after 
 phurch, walking "to Gray's Inne, to observe fashions of the ladies, 
 Because of my wife's making some clothes." 
 
 The City Halls, and mansions of the civic aristocracy, usually had 
 heir gardens, with terraces and lime-tree walks, fountains, and summer - 
 ouses, and decorative grottoes. 
 
 Grocers' Hall had in 1427 its pleasant garden, to which the citizens were 
 dmitted on petition to the Company : it contained " alleys, hedge-rows, and a 
 owling-alley," but was reduced in 1802, as we now see it. Drapers' Hall had 
 s garden in 1551, when rents were paid for admission-keys, and it became a 
 ishionable promenade : it is now open to the public. Merchant Tailors' Hall 
 |ad its garden, with alleys and a terrace, a treasury and summer banqueting- 
 oom. Salters' Hall (Oxford-place) had its large garden, into which the infamous 
 .mpson and Dudley (temp. Henry VII.), living in " two faire houses" in the rear, 
 had a dore of intercourse ;" and here " they met and consulted of matters at their 
 leasures" (Stow) ; this being originally the garden of the Priors of Tortington. 
 ronmongers' Hall had also its garden, for which we find charges for " cutting 
 f the vines and roses, and knots of rosemary." 
 
 Sir Paul Pindar, contemporary with Sir Thomas Gresham, had his 
 
322 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 garden and park, with an embellished lodge in the rear of his mansion 
 now a public-house in Bishopsgate-street ; the grounds are covered 
 with lanes, alleys, and blind courts, reaching to Finsbury-square 
 Gresham House had also its spacious walks and gardens. 
 
 Milton had a poetic liking for ''garden-houses," of which there wen 
 many in his time : his house in Aldersgate-street opened into a garden 
 in 1651, he lived in Petty France, Westminster (York-street, No. 19) 
 "a pretty garden-house, opening into the Park :" a cotton-willow tree 
 is said to' have been planted here by the poet's hand. 
 
 Sir John Hill's famous " physic-garden" was atBayswater: hen 
 he cultivated medicinal plants, and prepared essences, tinctures, &c. 
 
 Goring House, which occupied the site of Buckingham Palace, hat 
 a fountain-garden, westward of which was the cherry-garden am 
 kitchen-garden of Hugh Audley, Esq., from whom Audley-street, Gros. 
 venor-square, is named. Here, too, was a grove of mulberry-trees 
 planted by King James I. ; afterwards "the Mulberry Garden." Ther( 
 was another mulberry-plantation at Chelsea. 
 
 Waller describes the wall in St. James's Park as 
 
 " All with a border of rich fruit-trees crown'd." 
 
 Brompton-Park Nursery can be traced from 1681. Evelyn describe 
 it as a large and noble assembly of trees, evergreens, and shrubs, fo: 
 planting the boscage, wilderness, or grove ; with elms, limes, platans 
 Constantinople chestnuts, and black cherry-trees : its " potagere, melo 
 niere, culinierie" garden ; seeds, bulbs, roots, and slips, for the flower 
 ing garden ; occupying about 56 acres. In 1705, its plants at \d. eacl 
 were valued at 40,000?. ; and it had a wall half a mile long, covere< 
 with vines. London and Wise were the proprietors in 1694 : they an 
 praised by Addison in the Spectator for their laying-out of Kensin^toi 
 Gardens, where we see also Kent's ha-ha. The " Brompton Stock" is i 
 memorial of the celebrity of this district, which extended to Chelsea 
 but the gardens are fast disappearing, and their ground built upon 
 the site of Trinity Church, Bromptou, was in 1828 a market-garden 
 Chelsea Hospital, however, retains its terraces, little canals, and shad^ 
 lime-walks, and gigantic plane-trees, a curious specimen of the Dutci 
 style, temp. William III. ; it has an octagon summer-house, built by Si 
 John Yanbru^h. " The Old Men's Gardens" to the south-east, including 
 part of the site of old Ranelagh, were added in 1826, when Lord Johi 
 Russell was Paymaster- General : here each pensioner has his garden 
 the dressing of which affords society and employment. 
 
 As the eighteenth century advanced, the Botanic Garden at Cbel 
 sea, and its curator, Philip Miller, came into notice. (See Bo TANK 
 GARDENS, p. 50.) 
 
 Buckingham-Palace Gardens comprise about forty acres, of whid 
 nearly five are a lake : upon a mount is a pavilion of Chinese design 
 the interior decorated in the Pompeian and Raphaelesque style, witl 
 paintings from Milton's Comus, and Scott's novels and poems ; by East 
 lake, Maclise, Ross, &c. : the grounds are secluded by majestic elms 
 whilst the principal front of the palace commands the landscape-gardei 
 of St. James's Park. The old palace of St. James's, and Marlborougl 
 House, have their gardens ; and in the same line were the grounds o 
 Carlton House, with conservatories and rookery, now occupied by loft] 
 terraces of mansions ; but Buckingham House, and the several Club 
 houses on the south side of Pall Mall, have their gardens. 
 
 Kensinsrton Palace has its flower-garden of quaint design. In thi 
 direction lies Holland House, with its stately cedars, oaks, and planes 
 its flower-garden, with evergreens clipped into fantastic forms : bed 
 of Italian and old English character, fountains and terraces befittin; 
 
GAS-LIGHTING. 323 
 
 i the architectural garden of this Elizabethan mansion : in the " French 
 j Garden," in 1804, was first raised in England the Dahlia, from seeds 
 j sent by Lord Holland from Spain. 
 
 Campden House, Kensington, has a sheltered garden, in which the 
 wild olive once flourished ; and here a caper-tree produced fruit yearly 
 for a century. 
 
 Vauxhall, noticed by Evelyn in 1661, as "the New Spring Garden, 
 a pretty-contriv'd plantation," is mentioned otherwise than as a mere 
 promenade : Monoconys, about 1663, describes its squares "inclosed with 
 hedges of gooseberries, within which were roses, beans, and asparagus." 
 Hard by was Tradescant's garden at South Lambeth, well stored 
 with rare and curious plants collected in his travels : including roses 
 from Rose Island, near Port St. Nicholas. This garden existed in 1749, 
 and is described in Philos. Trans, vol. 46. Tradescant was " king's 
 gardener," temp. Charles I. ; and, with his son, assembled at Lambeth 
 the rarities which were the nucleus of the Ashmolean Museum. 
 
 In the Catalogue of their garden, published by the second Tradescant, are 
 Hollyhocks, Southernwood, Wormwood, the classical Acanthus, Prince's Feathers ; 
 that "great Flouramour, or purple flowre gentle;" Anemones of all sorts, Dogs- 
 bane; the "Arbor Judae, or Judas Tree, with red flowres;" the Birthworts of the 
 south ; numerous North-American plants ; meadow Saffrons from Constantinople ; 
 that "Fragraria Novas Angliae nondam descripta," the mother of our Keens, 
 Seedlings, and Scarlet and British Queen Strawberries; the "Hippomarathrum," or 
 Rhubarb of the Monks; Marvels of Peru ; " Paralysis fatua, foolish Cowslip, or 
 Jack-an-apes on Horseback," probably the green monster of the common Oxlip; 
 Pappas, or Virginian Potatoes ; " Populus alba VirginianaTradescanti," apparently 
 one of our Tacamahacs; Musk Roses, Double Yeilow Roses, and " Muscovie 
 Roses;" Fox Grapes, from Virginia; White and Red Burlett Grapes, Currant 
 Grape, Muscadells, " Frontinack or Musked Grape, white and red ;" and other 
 rarities, filling more than 100 pages. Gardener's Chronicle, March 11, 1852. 
 
 Lambeth was formerly noted for its public gardens. Here was 
 Cuper's garden, laid out with walks and arbours by Boydeli Cuper, 
 gardener to Thomas Earl of Arundel, who gave him some of the 
 mutilated Arundelian marbles (statues,) which Cuper set up in his 
 garden : it was suppressed in 1753 : the site is now crossed by Waterloo- 
 Bridge-road. Between the site of St. John's Church, and Christ 
 Church, Blackfriars-road, was formerly occupied by gardens, through 
 which lay the old Halfpenny Hatch footpath. (See ST. GEOBGE'S 
 FIELDS, p. 327). 
 
 Opposite the Asylum were the Apollo Gardens, opened about 1788 : 
 the old orchestra is now in Sydney Gardens, Bath. In the present 
 Southvvark-Bridge-road was Finch's Grotto and Garden, established 
 about 1760 : here Suett and Nan Cattley acted and sang : the old Grotto 
 house was burnt in 1795, but was rebuilt, and a stone inserted with 
 this inscription : 
 
 " Here Herbs did grow, 
 And Flowers sweet; 
 But now 'tis call'd 
 St. George's street." 
 
 Attached to some of the modern mansions in the town are pleasant 
 landscape-gardens: from the rear of Devonshire House is arus-in-urbe 
 seemingly extending to Berkeley-square, by means of the sunken passage 
 between the grounds of Lansdowne and Devonshire Houses. 
 
 The gardens in the centres of the several squares are refreshing as 
 oases in the desert waste ; and several of them are highly kept. 
 
 GAS-LIGHTING. 
 Although the Chinese have for ages employed natural coal-gas for 
 
324 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 lighting their streets and houses, only within the present century has 
 Gas superseded in London the dim oil-lights and crystal-glass lamps 
 of the preceding century. Dr. Johnson is said to have had a prevision of 
 this change ; when, one evening, from the window of his house in Bolt- 
 court, he observed the parish lamp-lighter ascend a ladder to light one 
 of the glimmering oil-lamps : he had scarcely descended the ladder half- 
 way when the flame expired; quickly returning, he lifted the cover 
 partially, and thrusting the end of his torch beneath it, the flame was 
 instantly communicated to the wick by the thick vapour which issued 
 from it. " Ah !" exclaimed the Doctor,"" one of these days the streets of 
 London will be lighted by smoke /" (Notes and Queries, No. 127.) 
 
 Coal-gas had been used for lighting by William Murdoch, in Corn- 
 wall, Birmingham, and Manchester, when F. A. W T insor, a German, after 
 several experiments, lighted the old Lyceum Theatre in 1803-1804; 
 he also established a New Light and Heat Company, with 50,OOOZ. for 
 further experiments; in 1807 he lighted one side of Pall Mall, and on 
 the King's birthday (June 4,) brilliantly illuminated the wall between 
 Pall Mall and St. James's Park; and next exhibited gas-light in Golden- 
 lane, August 16, 1807. 
 
 In 1809, Winsor applied to parliament for a charter, when the testi- 
 mony of Accum, the chemist, was bitterly ridiculed by Mr. Brougham, 
 F.R.S. In 1810-12 was established the Gas-Light and Coke Company, 
 in Cannon-row, Westminster; removed to Peter-street, or Horseferry- 
 road, then the site of a market-garden, poplars, and a tea-garden. In 
 1814, Westminster Bridge was lighted with gas; and the old oil-lamps 
 removed from St. Margaret's parish, and gas lanterns substituted; and 
 on Christmas-day, 1814, commenced the general lighting of London with 
 gas. Yet the scheme had been so ridiculed, that Sir Humphry Davy, 
 P.R.S., asked "if it were intended to take the dome of St. Paul's for a 
 gasometer ;" and a deputation of Fellows of the Royal Society, on visit- 
 ing the Peter-street gas-works, speculated upon frightful consequences 
 from the leakage and explosion of the gasometer. In 1822, St. James's 
 Park was first lighted with gas ; and the last important locality to adopt 
 gas-lighting was Grosvenor-squarein 1842. Theatres were first lighted 
 in 1817-18 ; church clock-dials in 1827. 
 
 London is now lighted by fourteen gas companies, having twenty 
 gas-making establishments in the town and its suburbs. Their invest- 
 ment of capital is about four millions. 
 
 Coal-gas is made from coal enclosed in red-hot cast-iron or clay 
 cylinders, or retorts; when hydro-carbon gases are evolved, and coke 
 left behind ; the gas being carried away by wide tubes, next cooled and 
 washed with water, and then exposed to lime in close purifiers. It is 
 then stored in sheet-iron gas-holders, miscalled gasometers: some of 
 which hold 700,000 cubic feet of gas; and the several London Companies 
 have storage for ten million cubic feet of gas. Thence it is driven by 
 the weight of the gas-holders through cast-iron mains or pipes under 
 the streets, and from them by wrought-iron service-pipes to the lamps 
 and burners : of the gas-mains there are nearly 2000 miles. 
 
 The London Gas Company's works, Vauxhall, are the most powerful 
 and complete in the world : from this point, their mains pass across 
 Vauxhall Bridge to western London ; and by Westminster and Waterloo 
 Bridges to Hampstead and Highgate, seven miles distant, where they 
 supply gas with the same precision and abundance as at Vauxhall. 
 
 Gas made from oil and resin is too costly for street-lighting, but has 
 been used for large public establishments. Covent Garden Theatre was 
 formerly lighted with oil-gas, made on the premises; and the London 
 Institution, with resin gas, first made by Mr. Daniell. The Lime-ball 
 Bude, Boccius, and Electric lights have been exhibited experimentally 
 
GEOLOGY OF LONDON. 325 
 
 (for street-lighting, but are too expensive. Upon the patent Air-light 
 | (from the vapour of hydro-carbon mixed with atmospheric air), proposed 
 | in 1838, upwards of 30,OOOZ. were expended unsuccessfully. 
 
 A Journal of Gas-lighting is devoted exclusively to the records of 
 this wonderful "art which doth excel nature." 
 
 What has the new light of all the preachers done for the morality and order 
 of London, compared to what has been effected by Gas-lighting! Old Murdoch 
 alone has suppressed more vice than the Suppression Society ; and has been a 
 greater police-officer into the bargain than old Colquhoun and Sir Richard JBirnie 
 united. Westminster Review, 1829. 
 
 GATE-HOUSE (THE), WESTMINSTER, 
 
 Built temp. Edward III. as the principal approach to the Monastery, 
 stood at the western entrance of Tothill-street, and consisted of two 
 gates, the southern, leading out of Great Dean's-yard, and a receptacle 
 for felons. On the east side was the Bishop of London's prison for 
 clerks-convict ; the rooms over the other gate adjoining, but towards the 
 west, being a prison-house for state, ecclesiastical, and parliamentary 
 offenders, prisoners from the Court of Conscience, as well as for debtors 
 and felons. The latter were brought hither through Thieving-lane and 
 j Union-street, to prevent escape by entering the liberties of Sanctuary. 
 
 Among the distinguished prisoners confined here, were Nicholas 
 Vaux, for propagating the Romish religion ; he died here of cold and 
 
 E 1 ^ linger, 1571 : Lady Purbeck, for adultery, 1622 ; she escaped to 
 ranee, disguised in a man's dress : John Selden, 1630 ; Sir "Walter 
 ,a.valeigh, his last prison-house, whence he was led to the block in Old 
 Palace-yard; Lovelace, the Cavalier-poet, who wrote here his loyal 
 song, "To Althaea, from prison;" Sir Charles Lyttleton, whom Cla- 
 rendon said was "worth his weight in gold;" in 1690, Pepys, the 
 diarist, charged with being affected towards the abdicated James II. ; 
 Sir Jeffrey Hudson, the court-dwarf, suspected of joining the Popish 
 Plot, died here; in 1701, five "men of Kent," for a "scandalous, inso- 
 lent, and seditious" petition to the House of Commons ; in 1716, Thomas 
 Harley, for prevarication to the House of Commons; the non-juring 
 Jeremy Collier, 1692 ; and Richard Savage, the poet, committed here 
 For the murder of Mr. Sinclair in a tavern fray. The debtors used to 
 let down upon a pole an alms-box, to collect money from the passers 
 in the street. The Gate-house was taken down in 1777 ; except one 
 arch, which remained till 1836 in the wall of the house once inhabited 
 jby the Right Hon. Edmund Burke. (See Walcott's Westminster, p. 273.) 
 
 GEOLOGY OF LONDON. 
 
326 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 it is only 44 feet thick ; while at White's Club-house, St. James's-street, 
 it is 235 feet. This clay is usually very tough and tenacious, with the 
 exception of a portion of its upper beds, which are mixed with sand. 
 Mr. R. W. Mylne, F.G.S., in his " Geological and Topographical Maps," 
 1852, has been the first to point out the exact extent of these higher 
 beds, upon the nature of the surface on which the pleasant character 
 of the country of Highgate and Hampstead is dependent But the 
 most remarkable variety in the geological features a variety attended 
 by a corresponding diversity of scenery occurs in the district between 
 Woolwich, Greenwich, Blackheath, and Lewisham. We there find the 
 outcrops of no less than five different groups of strata, commencing 
 with the chalk, and ending with the London clay. Throughout a great 
 part of London, this clay is overlaid by drift gravel, varying from 5 to 20 
 feet in thickness. The "chalk basin, formed by the strata bending or 
 dipping in the middle, contains pure water ; into this formation the 
 Artesian Wells of London are often carried down ; but it is a question 
 as to the quantity. (See ARTESIAN WELLS, p. 20.) 
 
 The gravel is not confined to the low grounds, but caps the highest 
 summits of the districts : e.g. Highgate on the north, and Shooter's 
 Hill on the south, of the Thames. To explain this distribution of the 
 gravel by the operation of the actual rivers, we must first suppose that 
 an uniform plane originally existed from the summit of Highgate to the 
 Hertfordshire chalk downs, and from the top of Shooter's Hill to those 
 of Kent, on the surface of which the river once flowed; secondly, that 
 these rivers have subsequently washed away all that immense mass of 
 materials which would be requisite thus to re-construct the surface ; 
 and thirdly, that having worn down that surface into nearly its present 
 form, the rivers perpetually shifted their channels, so as to distribute 
 the gravel equally over the whole plain of London, yet remained long 
 enough in each channel to lodge there deposits of this gravel 20 or 30 
 feet thick. (Conybeare.) 
 
 Amongst the contents of the London basin are balls of imperfect ironstone, 
 (teptaria,) of which Parker's cement is made; branches and stems of trees, pene- 
 trated by the teredo navalis, are found here, as is also a species of resin. A 
 fossil tre'e and nautili were found in digging the Primrose-Hill railway-tunnel. 
 Remains of turtles and crocodiles, and elephants' teeth and tusks, have been 
 dug out of the clay at Highgate and Islington. 
 
 Fossils are occasionally found on the rising slopes near Holloway, formed 
 by the earth thrown up in 1812, when the Highgate tunnel was made. Fine 
 specimens of echinus marinus (sea urchin,) have been picked up in a field con- 
 tiguous to the archway, together with a fish resembling a sole; another fish, 
 resembling a mackerel," in the brick-fields ; and a narrow stratum of dusty earth 
 abounds with mussels, pectines, and other fossil bivalves ; with large quantities 
 of iron combined with sulphur, in the form of pyrites. In a meadow behind Caen 
 Wood is a spring highly impregnated with iron. 
 
 In 1813, Mr. Trimmer's brick-fields, at Brentford, yielded such a collection of 
 sea-shells, sharks' teeth, bones of the elephant, hippopotamus, ox, and deer, 
 together with fresh-water shells, as to remind one of the relics of a vast menagerie 
 of animals from all quarters of the globe ; and in 1840, in excavating 40 feet deep \ 
 near Kew Bridge, were found several nautili, and smaller marine shells. For 
 the disappearance of the British mammoths, whose remains are found here, Sir 
 R. I. Murchison accounts by viewing England as the comparatively small island 
 she was, when the ancient estuary of the Thames, including the plains of Hyde 
 Park, Chelsea, Hounslow, and Uxbridge, were under water, and the country 
 thus afforded but insufficient feeding-grounds for these stupendous quadrupeds. , 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, 
 
 Between Lambeth and the Borough of Southwark, was an important 
 district, occupied by the Romans, attested by the large quantities of 
 coins, bricks, an urn-full of bones, tesselated pavements, &c. found 
 
327 
 
 here; the urn is preserved in the Museum of the Royal Society. St. 
 George's Fields were also crossed by the great Roman road, Watling- 
 street, presumed to have passed from Kent through Old Croydon, or 
 Woodcote, (supposed to be the ancient Noviomagus,) Streatham, and 
 Newington, to Stone-street in Southwark ; and thence by a ferry over 
 the Thames to Dowgate and the Watling-street of our day. A branch 
 of the Ermine-street, from Chichester in Sussex, is also conjectured to 
 have assumed the name of Stone-street on entering Surrey ; and to have 
 passed by Dorking, "Woodcote, Streatham, Kennington, and Newington, 
 across St. George's Fields, into Southwark. 
 
 St. George's Fields anciently included the whole space peninsulated by the 
 bend of the river Thames, commencing at Greenwich, and terminating at Nine 
 Elms. This was, probably, originally a large marshy bay, across which were 
 several lines of transit at low water, leading from the rising grounds at Norwood, 
 Cambenvell, and Dulwich, to fords at various places across the Thames. 
 Ptolemy (second century) mentions that the Romans had then settled south of 
 the river, though the north bank was their original station: subsequently, the 
 tract called St. George's Fields having been partially drained, and causeways 
 (as at Newington) through the marshes constructed, forts and other buildings 
 were erected, and a southern suburb of London gradually arose. Brayley's 
 Surrey, vol. v. p. 337. 
 
 Nearly to the present century, the Fields lay waste, and were the 
 scene of brutalizing sports, political meetings, and low places of enter- 
 tainment. In their water-ditches Gerrard found plenty of water- violets : 
 i and scores of gardens existed here to our time. Here a riot was raised 
 , by the mobs who met to visit Wilkes in the King's Bench Prison, in 1768 ; 
 'and here Lord George Gordon's rioters met, June 2, 1780; on the 7th, 
 i the 700 prisoners in the King's Bench were liberated, and the building 
 : set on fire by the populace. Here were the Dog and Duck wells, in 1695, 
 | which grew to be a Sabbath-breaking tavern ; the premises were last 
 | tenanted as the School for the Indigent Blind ; the site is now included 
 in Bethlem Hospital, and the sculptured sign-stone preserved in the 
 boundary-wall denotes the site of the tavern-entrance. (See BETHLEM 
 HOSPITAL, p. 42; BLIND SCHOOL, p. 49; and ST. GEOBGE'S ROMAN 
 CATHOLIC CHURCH, p. 151.) 
 
 ST. GILES'S, 
 
 Originally a village in the north-west suburbs of London : was named 
 from an hospital for lepers, dedicated to the saint, built on the site of a 
 small church or oratory, and nearly upon the site of the present church, 
 i about 1117, by Matilda, queen of Henry I. The gardens and precincts 
 extended between High-street and Hog-lane (now Crown-street), and 
 the Pound,* west of Meux's brewery. In 1213, the village was laid 
 out in garden-plots, with cottages ; it had its ancient stone cross ; and 
 about 1225 there was a blacksmith's shop at the north-west end of 
 Drury-lane, which remained long after the suppression of the Hospital, f 
 or about 1600, when the " verie pleasant village" was built over : " on 
 the High-street, Holborn," says Stow, "have ye many faire houses 
 builded, and lodgings for gentlemen, inns for travellers, and such like, 
 up almost, for it lacketh little, to St. Giles's-in-the-Fields." 
 
 Aggas's plan shews fields and gardens from St. Giles's Hospital 
 
 * The exact site of St. Giles's Pound, (whence miles on the Oxford road were 
 measured,) is an area of 30 feet of the broad space where St. Giles's, High-street, 
 . Tottenham Court-road, and Oxford-street meet: around it was a nestling-place 
 of crime : 
 
 " At Newgate-steps Jack Chance was found, 
 
 And bred up near St. Giles's Pound." 
 
 t The celebrated Dr. Andrew Boorde rented lor many years the Master's 
 House, temp. Henry VIII. 
 
328 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 wall to Chancery-lane, eastward, with a few houses at the north em 
 of Drury-lane, and opposite the present Red Lion-street, Holborn 
 Thence to the north side of the Strand are two or three houses ii 
 Covent Garden ; Drury House, at the bottom of Drury-lane ; and catth 
 grazing on the site of Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields. Earb 
 in the reign of Queen Anne, the whole parish of St. Giles's, except thii 
 neighbourhood of Bedford-square and the present Bloomsbury, wai 
 covered with houses. 
 
 The village of St. Giles's was noted for its early inns and houses of entertain 
 ment. Here was Croche House (LeCroche Hose, or the Crossed Stockings, sign] 
 which belonged to the Hospital cook, anno 1300, and was opposite the north em 
 of Monmouth-street. The Swan on the Hop. in Holborn, east of Drury-lane, i 
 mentioned 34 Edward III.; and the White Hart, corner of Holborn and Drury 
 lane, is shewn in Aggas's plan, 1560, and was an inn till 1720. Not far eastwari 
 was the Rose, named in a deed Edward III. ; with the Vine, a little east of Kings 
 gate-street, supposed to have been on the site of the Vineyard in Holborn 
 named in Domesday Book. The Vine was taken down in 1817, and the hous 
 built on its site was occupied by Probert, the accomplice of the murderer Johi 
 Thurtell. The Maidenhead inn, in Dyot-street, flourished early in the reign o 
 Queen Elizabeth. The Turnstile Tavern, south-west corner of Great Turnstile 
 (now a butcher's shop,) was bequeathed to the parish in 1640 ; and the Cock am 
 Pye was in the fields of that name. 
 
 About the year 1413, the gallows was removed from the Elms ii 
 Smithfield to the north end of the garden- wall of St. Giles's Hospital 
 and it is figured in an ancient plan of the district. (See p. 129.) 
 
 1416. " Thys yere the xiiij day of December Sir John Oldecastell Knyght 
 was drawne from the tower of London un to sent Gylles in the felde and thei 
 was hongyd (on a gallows new made) and brent." Chronicle of the Grey Friar 
 of London. 
 
 The gallows was again removed westward to Tyburn, when St. Giles' 
 became a sort of half-way house for condemned criminals, who stoppe< 
 at the Hospital, and afterwards at an hostel built on its site, and wen 
 there presented with a large bowl of ale. This gave a moral taint t< 
 St. Giles's, and made it a retreat for noisome and squalid outcasts 
 The Puritans made stout efforts to reform its morals ; and, as the parisl 
 books attest, " oppressed tipplers" were fined for drinking on thi 
 Lord's day, and vintners for permitting them; fines were levied foi 
 swearing oaths, travelling and brewing on a fast-day, &c. Again, St 
 Giles's was a refuge for the persecuted tipplers and ragamuffins o: 
 London and Westminster in those days; and its blackguardism wai 
 increased by harsh treatment. It next became the abode of knot 
 of disaffecte'd foreigners, chiefly Frenchmen, of whom a club was helc 
 in Seven Dials. Smollett speaks, in 1740, of " two tatterdemalion! 
 from the purlieus of St. Giles's, and between them both there was bu - 
 one shirt and a pair of breeches." Hogarth painted his moralities fron 
 St. Giles's : his " Gin-lane" has for its background St. George's Church 
 Bloomsbury, date 1751: "when," says Hogarth, "these two print: 
 (" Gin-lane" and " Beer-street,") were designed and engraved, th- 
 dreadful consequences of gin-drinking appeared in every house in Gin 
 lane ; every circumstance of its horrid effects is brought to view in ter 
 rorem, not a house in tolerable condition but the pawnbroker's am 
 the gin-shop the coffin-maker's in the distance." Again, the scene 01 
 Hogarth's Harlot's Progress is in Drury-lane; Tom Nero, in his Fou; 
 Stages of Cruelty, is a St. Giles's charity- boy ; and in a night-cellar hert 
 the idle apprentice is taken up for murder.* Here were often scene 
 
 * A Middlesex magistrate said, in 1817: "In the early part of my life (I Pj 
 member almost the time which Hogarth has pictured) every house in St. Giles' 
 whatever else they sold, sold gin; every chandler's shop sold gin: the situatio; 
 of the people was dreadful." 
 
ST. GILES'S. 329 
 
 >f bloody fray, riot, and chance-medley; for in this wretched district 
 Ivere grouped herds of men but little removed from savagery. The 
 jlound-house (Watch-house,) of St. Giles's was probably one of the 
 iast that remained : it stood in an angle of Kendrick-yard, and its 
 >ack windows looked upon the burial-ground of St. Giles's Church ; it 
 vas built in a cylindrical form, like a modern Martello tower, though, 
 from bulging, it resembled an enormous cask set on its end : it was 
 iwo stories high, and had a flat roof, surmounted by a gilt vane in the 
 khape of a key. (See W. H. Ainsworth's Jack Sheppard.) 
 
 Seven Dials was built temp. Charles II. for wealthy tenants. 
 j3velyn notes, 1694: "I went to see the building near St. Giles's, 
 where Seven Dials make a star from a Doric pillar placed in the middle 
 j)f a circular area, said to be by Mr. Neale (the introducer of the late 
 lotteries), in imitation of Venice, now set up here for himself twice, 
 Ind once for the state." 
 
 " Where famed St. Giles's ancient limits spread, 
 An in-rail'd column rears its lofty head; 
 Here to seven streets seven dials count their day, 
 And from each other catch the circling ray : 
 Here oft the peasant, with inquiring lace, 
 Bewilder'd trudges on from place to place; 
 He dwells on every sign with stupid gaze, 
 Enters the narrow alley's doubtful maze, 
 Tries every winding court and street in vain, 
 And doubles o'er his weary steps again." Gay's Trivia, book ii. 
 
 The seven streets were Great and Little Earl, Great and Little 
 Vhite Lion, Great and Little St. Andrew's, and Queen ; though the dial- 
 tone had but six faces, two of the streets opening into one angle. The 
 olumn arid dials were removed in June, 1773, to search for a treasure 
 aid to be concealed beneath the base : they were never replaced, but 
 i 1822 were purchased of a stone-mason, and the column was sur- 
 mounted with a ducal coronet, and set up on Wey bridge Green as 
 memorial to the late Duchess of York, who died at Oatlands in 1820. 
 'he dial-stone is now a stepping-stone at the adjoining Ship inn. 
 
 " Every body whose affairs lead him to be constantly running about London 
 nows the dirty labyrinth of Seven Dials ; indeed, we might rather say every 
 ody does not know it, for it takes a long apprenticeship in pavement-polishing 
 a become acquainted with its bearings and intricacies. The respective gin-shops 
 t its corners are the only guides. In other wildernesses of natural objects, 
 istead of bricks and mortar, the sun and stars would serve to indicate points of 
 ic compass, but in Seven Dials the sun and the stars are seldom visible. A 
 eavy tarpaulin of fog, and smoke, and reeking odours, covers the entire district, 
 "lutting out the heavens by a murky medium, under which increases and 
 mltiplies the most unlovely race of the mammoth metropolis. They never get 
 lung-full of good air. The only innocuous atmosphere they breathe is that 
 hich sometimes surges down over the roofs of the many-peopled houses from 
 le adjacent brewery, and even that is artificial." Albert Smith. 
 
 Long Acre, the Seven Dials, and Soho were Cock and Pie Fields, 
 he resort of the idle and dissolute, until, temp. William III., Mr. Neale 
 uilt upon the ground. Wyld-street is named from the mansion 
 ere of the Welds, the Dorset Roman Catholic family; Bainbridge 
 nd Buckeridge streets, from their owners, men of wealth, temp. 
 Jharles II. ; and Dyott-street (now George- street), from Sir Thomas 
 )yott, who died in the same reign, devising the property, since Dyott 
 nd other streets, upon the condition that it should be appropriated to 
 he same style of building, and the same description of inhabitants 
 lat so long kept possession of it. Out of these very streets was 
 )rmed the Rookery, removed for New Oxford-street. Here the Irish 
 rst colonised London, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; hence St. Giles's 
 
330 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 has been called Little Dublin ; and in 1637, cellars are first mentioned 
 in the parish-books as places of residence. 
 
 On Sept. 27, 1841, died, aged 70, in the house in which he was born, Mr. Robert 
 Smith, 12, Great St. Andrew-street, Seven Dials, a smith, possessed of 400, OOO/. 
 in funded, freehold, and leasehold property : he built between 150 and 200 houses 
 in the Hampstead-road.; 
 
 Monmnuth (now Dudley') street, said to be named after the unfortunate 
 Duke (who had a mansion on the site of Bateman's-buildings, Soho- 
 square), is noted for its sign-board painters; its dealers in amateur 
 theatrical properties, singing-birds, old clothes, and second-hand boots 
 and shoes ; but the " laced and embroidered coats in Moumouth-street," 
 mentioned by Lady Mary Wortley Montague, have become exchanged 
 for the sombre suits of our fashion. Here also are public-houses noted 
 for fancy-dog shows. Whole families and schools live in the cellars. In 
 1797, many horse-shoes nailed to the thresholds to hinder the power of 
 witches, were seen in Monmouth-street ; in 1813, Sir Henry Ellis counted 
 seventeen horse-shoes ; in 1841 there were six ; in 1852, eleven. Jews pre- 
 ponderate in this street, Irish abounding most in the lanes and courts. 
 
 The modern St. Giles's is bounded north by the brewery in Bain- 
 bridge-street ; south by the brewery in Castle-street ; and extends from 
 Crown-street on the west to Drury-lane on the east. The literature 
 of St. Giles's has long fixed its abode in the Seven Dials ; and in Great 
 White-Lion-street, Mrs. Pilkington exhibited in her lodging window, 
 "Letters written here." Printing-presses, booksellers, stationers, and 
 circulating libraries abound here ; Pitts and Catnach being the great 
 ballad-printers. (See BALLAD-SINGING, p. 7.) One of their authors 
 confessed to Mr. Henry Mayhew : 
 
 " The little knowledge I have, I have picked up bit by bit, so that I hardly 
 know how I have come by it. I certainly knew my letters before I left home, 
 and I have got the rest off the dead walls and out of the ballads and papers I have 
 been selling. I write most of the Newgate ballads now for the printers in the 
 Dials, and indeed, any thing that turns up. I get a shilling for a ' Copy of verses 
 written by the wretched culprit the night previous to his execution.' I wrote 
 Courvoisier's sorrowful lamentation : I called it ' A Woice from the Gaol.' I wrote 
 a pathetic ballad on the respite of Annette Meyers. I did the helegy, too, on 
 Rush's execution : it was supposed, like the rest, to be written by the culprit 
 himself, and was particularly penitent. I didn't write that to order I knew they 
 would want a copy of verses from the culprit. The publisher read it over, and 
 said ' That's the thing for the street public.' I only got a shilling for Rush. Indeed, 
 they are all the same price, no matter how popular they may be. I wrote the life 
 of Manning in verse. Besides these, I have written the lament of Calcraft the 
 Hangman on the decline of his trade, and many political songs." Morning 
 Chronicle. 
 
 <l The Rookery" was a triangular space bounded by Bainbridge, 
 George, and High streets : it was one dense mass of houses, through 
 which curved narrow tortuous lanes, from which again diverged close 
 courts one great maze, as if the houses had originally been one block 
 of stone, eaten by slugs into numberless small chambers and connecting 
 passages. The lanes were thronged with loiterers ; and stagnant gut- 
 ters, and piles of garbage and filth infested the air. In the windows, 
 wisps of straw, old hats, and lumps of bed-tick or brown paper, alter- 
 nated with shivered panes of broken glass; the walls were the colour 
 of bleached soot, and doors fell from their hinges and worm-eaten posts. 
 Many of the windows announced, " Lodgings at 3d. a night," where 
 the wild wanderers from town to town held their nightly revels. With 
 such scenes the public were familiarised by Pierce Egan's Life in Lon- 
 don (1820), upon our minor metropolitan stages, where they excited as 
 much curiosity as a romance of bygoxe life. The Rookery has, how- 
 ever, almost entirely disappeared ; and in its place stands a block o: 
 
GILTSPUR-STREET. GOG AND MAGOG. 331 
 
 j' Model Houses for Families," with perfect ventilation and drainage, 
 ,.nd rents lower than the average paid for the airless, dark, and fetid 
 jooms of the old " Rookery." Elsewhere, lanes and alleys of squalid 
 enements have disappeared, and their site is now occupied by the em- 
 bellished lines of New Oxford-street. (See Rookeries of London, 1850.) 
 " The degraded condition of the Seven Dials (says a Report of 1848) is notorious, 
 -vagrants, thieves, sharpers, scavengers, basket -women, char -women, army- 
 eamstresses, and prostitutes, compose its mass: infidels, chartists, socialists, 
 Lnd blasphemers exist there as in head-quarters. In addition to the street 
 raffic on the Sabbath, there are 150 shops then open in the streets. Lodging- 
 nouses of the lowest and dirtiest description afford temporary shelter to the 
 [agrant and the criminal. In the very heart of this debased and debasing locality 
 p situated a Ragged School ; its entrance-door in the extreme angle of an irregular, 
 hree-cornered yard so uninviting, that few respectable persons have courage to 
 |'enture through it." The flagrant evil cannot be more formidably met ; and the 
 oral regeneration of the district is thus rapidly progressing. 
 
 St. Giles's has also its Parochial, National, and Infant Schools ; and 
 Its Almshouses, endowed by the Earl of Southampton in 1656. It has 
 ts District Visiting Society, its Lying-in charity ; a lending library ; 
 ji Savings Fund, to which more than 1000 poor contribute annually, 
 Induced by the premium of Irf. in the Is. ; and Ragged and Industrial 
 jschools for 300 children, established in 1852. 
 
 I St. Giles's Church and the Tomb of Richard Pendrell, the preserver of 
 Charles II. (See page 129). The monument is new, its base being the black 
 marble slab of the old tomb. Pendrell lived in Turnstile-lane, Holborn, in 1668. 
 It is supposed that after the Restoration he followed the King to town, and 
 fettled in St. Giles's parish, to be near the Court. Pendrell died in 1674; one of 
 is name occurs as overseer in 1702 ; and a great grand-daughter of Richard Pen- 
 irell was living in 1818, in the neighbourhood of Covent Garden. Dr. Rimbault, in 
 Notes and Queries, No. 16. 
 
 GILTSPUR-STREET 
 
 Was in Stow's time also called Knight-rider's-street, " of the knights 
 Jid others riding that way into Smithtield." The portion beyond the 
 Compter prison was originally Pie-corner, " noted chiefly for cooks' 
 hops and pigs drest there during Bartholomew Fair." (Strype.) Here 
 he Great Fire of London ended ; to commemorate which, was erected 
 igainst a public-house ("the Fortune of War,") in Pie-corner, a carved 
 wooden figure of a boy upon a bracket, his arms folded across his breast, 
 and the following inscription written from under the chin downward : 
 r This boy is in memory put up for the late Fire of London, occasioned 
 jby the sin of gluttony, 1666." This is no longer legible. The whole 
 (is engraved by J. T. Smith, and in Lester's " Illustrations," 1818. The 
 houses that escaped the Fire on this spot were taken down in 1809. 
 |0n the west side of Giltspur-street is Cock-lane, the scene of "the 
 |Cock-lane ghost" imposture in 1672 : "the house is still standing, and 
 the backroom, where ' scratching Fanny' lay surrounded by princes and 
 beers, is converted into a gas-meter manufactory." (Notes and Queries, 
 tfo. 16.) An account of the detection of the imposture was printed by 
 Dr. Johnson ; a pamphlet describing the whole affair was written by 
 Goldsmith. Churchill, in his poem, The Ghost, satirised the hoax, and 
 caricatured Johnson as a believer in it ; which Boswell has disproved. 
 
 GOG AND MAGOG, 
 
 ' The two Giants in Guildhall," are supposed to have been originally 
 nade for carrying about in pageants, a custom not peculiar to London ; 
 for " the going of the giants at Midsummer" occurs among the ancient 
 customs of Chester, before 1599. Puttenham (1589) speaks of " Mid- 
 mmmer pageants in London, where, to make the people wonder, are 
 *et forth great and uglie gyants, marching as if they were alive," &c. 
 
332 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Again, "one of the gyants' stilts" that stalks before ray Lord May or 'i 
 Pageants occurs in the old play of the Dutch Courtezan. (Marston\ 
 Works, 1633.) Bishop Hall, in his Satires, compares an angry poet to 
 
 " The crab-tree porter of the Guildhall, 
 While he his frightful Beetle elevates." 
 
 In 1415, when Henry V. entered London by Southwark, a male ant 
 female giant stood at the entrance of London Bridge ; in 1432, here j 
 " mighty giant" awaited Henry VL ; in 1554, at the entry of Philij 
 and Mary, " Corinaeus and Gog-magog" stood upon London Bridge 
 and when Elizabeth passed through the City the day before her coro- 
 nation (Jan. 12, 1558), these two giants were placed at Temple Bar 
 (W. F. Fairholt, F.S.A.) Jordan, in describing the Lord Mayor'i 
 Pageant for 1672, notices as exceeding rarities, " two extreme greai 
 giants, at least 15 feet high, that do sit and are drawn by horses in tw< 
 several chariots, talking and taking tobacco as they ride along, to th< 
 great admiration and delight of all spectators." 
 
 Ned Ward describes the Guildhall giants in his London Spy, 1699 
 and among the fireworks upon the Thames, at the coronation of Jamei 
 II. and his queen, April 24, 1685, " were placed the statues of the tw< 
 giants of Guildhall." Bragg, in his Observer, Dec. 25, 1706, tells ui 
 that when the colours taken at Ramilies were put up in Guildhall 
 " the very giants stared with all the eyes they had, and smiled as wel 
 as they could." (Malcolm.) 
 
 " Before the present giants inhabited Guildhall, there were two giants mad 
 only of wicker-work and pasteboard, put together with great art and ingenuity 
 and those two terrible giants had the honour to grace my Lord Mayor's Show 
 being carried in great triumph in the time of the pageants ; and when that emi 
 nent annual service was over, remounted their old stations in Guildhall till b; 
 reason of their very great age, old Time, with the help of a number of City rat 
 and mice, had eaten up all their entrails. The dissolution of the two old weal 
 and feeble giants gave birth to the two present substantial and majestic giants 
 who, by order, and at the City charge, were formed and fashioned," by Captaii 
 Richard Saunders, an eminent carver, in King-street, Cheapside ; and then " wer 
 advanced to those lofty stations in Guildhall, which they have peaceably enjoyei 
 ever since the year 1708." We quote this from a very rare " Gigantic History o 
 the Two famous Giants in Guildhall, London," third Edit. 1741, published withii 
 Guildhall, when shops were permitted there. This work also relates that " th 
 first honour which the two ancient wicker-work giants were promoted to in th 
 City, was at the Restoration of King Charles II., when, with great pomp am 
 majesty, they graced a triumphal arch at the end of King-street, in Cheapside. 
 This was before the Great Fire, which the City Giants escaped, till their in firmitie 
 and the " City rats" rendered it necessary to supersede them ; and the City ac 
 counts in the Chamberlain's Office contain a payment of 701. to Saunders, th 
 carver, in 1707. 
 
 The " Gigantick History" supposes the Guildhall giants to represen 
 Corinaeus and Gog-magog, in Geoffry of Monmouth's chronicle, i 
 Milton's Early History of Britain, and thus in a broadsheet of 1660: 
 
 " And such stout Coronceus was, from whom 
 Cornwall's first honour, and her name doth come. 
 For though he sheweth not so great nor tall, 
 In his dimensions set forth at Guildhall, 
 Know 'tis a poet, only a poet can define 
 A gyant's posture in a gyant's line. 
 ***** 
 And thus attended by his direful dog, 
 The gyant was (God bless us) Goginagog." 
 
 British Bibliogr. iv. p. 277. 
 
 "Each of these giants," says Archdeacon Nares (Glossary}, "mea 
 sures upwards of 14 feet in height; the young one is believed to b 
 Corinaeus, and the old one Gog-magog," whence " Gog and Magog." 
 
GOODMAN'S FIELDS. GREY FRIARS. 333 
 
 The present costumes of the Giants are in rococo taste, as follow : 
 i GOG. Body-armour a la Romaine, with a red scarf across the shoulder; plumed 
 lelmet, with the City Dragon for a crest ; a sword by his side, and in his hands 
 ' halberd, and a shield ensigned with a spread-eagle. 
 
 ;MAGOG. Body-armour and scarf as Gog; sword at side, how and arrows over 
 (is shoulder, and in his hand a " morning- star ;" his hair long and flowing, and 
 acircled with a " couronned'honneur." 
 
 I In 1815, the giants were removed from the north side of the Hall, 
 
 !,*hen Mr. Hone examined them, and found them to be " made of wood, 
 
 nd hollow within ; and from the method of joining and gluing the 
 
 terior, are evidently of late construction ; but they are too substan- 
 
 ally built for the purpose of being either carried' or drawn, or any 
 
 ay exhibited in a pageant." (Hone, on Ancient Mysteries.} In 1837, 
 
 e dresses of the giants were renewed, their armour polished, &c. 
 
 "his year also, copies of the giants, 14 feet high, were introduced in the 
 
 ,ord Mayor's show : each walked by means of a man within side, who 
 
 arned the giant's face, which was level with the first floor windows. 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS 
 
 k.re described by Stow to have been, in his time, a farm belonging to 
 ic Abbey of the Nuns of St. Clare, called the Minories ; "at the which 
 inn (says Stow) I myself, in my youth, have fetched many a halfpenny- 
 'orth of milk, and never had less than three ale pints for a halfpenny in 
 he summer, nor less than one ale quart for a halfpenny in the winter, 
 Iways hot from the kine, as the same was milked and strained." One 
 "rolop, and afterwards Goodman, were the farmers ; and next Good- 
 an's son, who let out the ground first for grazing of horses, and then 
 or garden-plots. Strype (1720) describes the Fields covered with 
 ""escod or Prescot, Ayliffe, Leman, and Maunsell streets, the initials of 
 rhich names make the word palm; these streets are mostly inhabited 
 y thriving Jews. Strype also mentions tenters for cloth-workers, 
 nd a roadway out of Whitechapel into "Well-close. In digging the 
 oundations for houses, about 1678, were found a vast number of Roman 
 unereal urns, some with ashes of bones in them, denoting Goodman's 
 ''ields to have been originally a Roman burying-place. 
 
 Goodman's-style, Goodman's-gardens, and Rosemary-lane, denote 
 ris rural district. On the site of Leman-street was the New Wells 
 pa, now denoted by Well-yard. (See THEATEES : Goodman's Fields.) 
 
 GREY FRIARS. 
 
 In 1224, four of the Friars Minors, or Grey Friars, arrived in 
 xnidon from Italy, and were first entertained in the house of the 
 Friars Preachers, or Dominicans. Afterwards, they hired a house hi 
 ^ornhill, of John Travers, then sheriff, where they made some small 
 Us, and continued until the following summer; when the devotion of 
 he citizens enabled the Friars to purchase the site of their future resi- 
 ence near Newgate. Their first and principal benefactor was John Iwyn, 
 itizen and mercer, who gave them some land and houses in the parish 
 
384 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the heralds. The convent was principally supplied with water by 
 William, called from his trade the Taylor, and who served King Henry 
 III. in that capacity.* 
 
 A more magnificent church was commenced in 1301, and completed 
 1327 : first, the choir was rebuilt, chiefly at the cost of Margaret of 
 France, the second wife of King Edward I., who assigned it for her 
 place of interment ; and the nave was added from the benefactions of 
 John of Britany, Earl of Richmond, and his niece Mary, Countess of 
 Pembroke : it was 300 feet long, 89 feet wide, and 64 feet high ; all the i 
 columns and the pavement were of marble. In 1421, was added the | 
 library, "furnished with desks, settles, and wainscoting or ceiling," by 
 Sir Richard Whittington, the celebrated mayor in the reign of Henry V. < 
 
 On St. George's day, 1502, the Grey Friars relinquished the ! 
 " London russet," which they had for some time worn, and resumed ! 
 the undyed white-grey, which had been their original habit. On : 
 the feast of Saint Francis, July 16, 1508, the mayor and aldermen j 
 were received with grand procession as founders, which custom con- 1 
 tinued long after; but not until 1-522 did the convent provide a feast I 
 for the corporation on that anniversary. In 1524, King Henry and f 
 Cardinal Wolsey personally visited the house. In 1528, in the case of I 
 a prisoner who had broken away from the sessions at Newgate, the! 
 convent asserted its right of Sanctuary, a privilege that could scarcely! 
 be often put in requisition, as the much-frequented Sanctuary of St. | 
 Martin-le-Grand was in the immediate vicinity. The Franciscans seem! 
 to have passively acquiesced in the course of events : for, November 12,f 
 1539, their warden, and twenty-five of his brethren, signed and sealed! 
 their deed of surrender to the king, being convinced " that the perfec-j 
 cion of Christian livyng dothe not consiste in doine ceremonyes, weringj 
 of a grey coatte, disgeasing our selffes after straunge fassions, dokynges. 
 nodyngs, and bekynges, in gurding our selffes wythe a gurdle full oJ 
 knots, and other like papisticall ceremonyes," &c. 
 
 After the surrender, the house of the Grey Friars was not given TO 
 to immediate destruction ; but remained unoccupied in the king's hand; 
 until 1544, when, with the houses of the late Austin and Black Friars' 
 it became a receptacle for the merchandise captured at sea from th<| 
 French; every part of the Grey Friars church being filled with wine 
 it was not, however, dismantled ; for in 1546 the " partitions" or screen:; 
 remained; the altars, pictures, images, and pulpit ; the monuments am| 
 grave-stones: the candlesticks, organs, and desks. Subsequently, DM 
 the king's gift, the church of the Grey Friars was to become the parish j 
 church of" Christ's Church within Newgate;" but the king dying ii 
 the same year and month, the altars, stalls, &c. were removed, and th j 
 church reduced in length, the nave being rented to a schoolmaster fo 
 10*. per annum. All the tombs and grave-stones were sold for abou 
 51. ; and Weever states there to have been buried in the church fou 
 queens,! four duchesses, four countesses, one duke, two earls, eighj 
 barons, and some thirty-five knights ; in all, 663 persons of quality > 
 
 * In the chapter of the Register, the main channel or pipe is traced undt 
 Newgate, through the rivulet at Holborn Bridge, up Leather-lane (Liworne-lanej 
 and so to the Conduit-heads in the fields. 
 
 t The Queens were the foundress of the church, Margaret, consort < 
 Edward I.; Isabella, consort of Edward II. ; Joan, queen of Scots, daughter d 
 Edward II. ; and Isabella, queen of Man. Besides these, the church had receive 
 the heart of a fifth Queen, Alianor, consort of Henry III. ; and also the 
 King Edward 1 1., deposited under the breast of his queen's effigy. The ca 
 is noc, however, complete ; for, during some excavations on the site about If 
 were found two ancient inscribed grave-stones not in the Register: t. 
 raemorate a monk of Ely, and a supposed Italian merchant, aud are preserve 
 in the burial-grouud of Chrit-tchurch. 
 
/ ' li 
 
 GRUB-STKEET/ (j * 
 
 jthe catalogue of the monuments is prqBerved. and is a v^^yaluable 't 
 [{genealogical record. ^ f ** * * A' 
 
 These details are abridged principallyVronT -Mf .Nichols's Pre/acye' 
 jto the Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London, printed/f/rAh/e. Camden / 
 | Society (1852), from the register-book of the Fraternity. * Trieihistory 
 |of the Grey Friars convent next merges into that of the establiffqgn^bit 
 of Christ's 'Hospital, which Mr. Nichols refers to Henry's grant of*tle/ 
 (Grey Friars' house to the City, aided by their subscriptions, and not to * i 
 JEdward VI., who merely recognised the Hospital which the citizens 
 themselves had set on foot. 
 
 " Moreover, Christ's Hospital was not founded as a school ; its object was to 
 rescue young children from the streets, to shelter, feed, clothe, and, lastly, to 
 leducate them in short, to do exactly what in later times has been done by each 
 (individual parish for the orphan and destitute offspring of the poor." Nichols. 
 
 The great picture in the hall of Christ's Hospital is commonly referred to as 
 jcontemporary evidence of King Edward's share in the foundai ion. " This picture 
 jis usually attributed to Holbein, but in error. It is an amplification of Holbein's 
 picture of the same subject which is at Bridewell Hospital. That picture contains 
 only eleven figures, including the painter himself; the picture at Christ's Hospital 
 has ninety or more, and not only is it very inferior as a work of art, but obviously 
 of posterior date in point of costume." Mr. Nichols adds: " the picture at Christ's 
 Hospital is derived from Holbein's, so far as the principal figures go: my own 
 mpression is that it is of the period of James I. or Charles I." 
 
 Some of the buildings of the ancient convent, including the fratry 
 and refectory, were standing in the early part of the present century. 
 The walls and windows of Whittington's library were to be traced in 
 a mutilated state on the north side of the cloisters. Even now, the 
 southern walk of the friars' cloisters remains, and its pointed arches 
 and buttresses may be seen from the exterior. The western walk of 
 the cloisters was under the Great Hall, which was pulled down in 1827, 
 as was Whittington's library about the same time. The shield of Whit- 
 tington, with a quatrefoil, was inserted in various parts of this building ; 
 and a stone so carved is now in the museum of Mr.E. B. Prince, F.S.A., 
 and is etched at the end of Mr. Nichols's Preface to the Chronicle. 
 (See CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, pp. 80-84.) 
 
 GRUB-STREET, 
 
 Cripplegate, is now called Milton-street, " not after the great poet, as 
 some persons have asserted, but from a respectable builder so called, 
 who has taken the whole street on a repairing lease." (JElmes, 1830.) 
 Grub-steet was originally tenanted by bowyers, fletchers, makers of 
 bow-strings, and of every thing relating to archery. It is the last street 
 shewn in Aggas's map ; all beyond, as far as Bishopsgate-street Without, 
 being gardens, fields, or morass. After the Great Fire of 1666, the Gold- 
 smiths' Company met in Grub-street temporarily, in the house of Sir 
 Thomas Allen, grocer,'and Lord Mayor in 1659. Here dwelt Fox, themar- 
 tyrologist ; Speed, the antiquary, like Stow, a tailor ; and Henry Welby, 
 Esq., " the Grub-street Hermit," who lived here forty-four years, 
 during which he was only seen by his maid-servant, who died Oct. 23, 
 1696, and Welby, in six days after, aged 84 : he owned a large estate in 
 Lincolnshire, but betook himself to this seclusion in misanthropic re- 
 |sentment of an attempt made upon his life by a younger brother. 
 
 In Grub-street, Dec. 9, 1695, one Stockden, a victualler, was murdered by 
 four men, three of whom were revealed in three successive dreams to the vic- 
 tualler's widow, and were tried, condemned, and hanged; the narrative attested 
 and published " by the Curate of Cripplegate." 
 
 I < Here lived the authors of "anonymous treason and slander," pub- 
 ished during the usurpation, when "a prodigious number of seditious 
 and libellous pamphlets and papers were issued. Possibly, from Grub- 
 street being the booksellers' suburb of Aldersgate and Little Britain, it 
 
336 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 became the abode of small authors. Arbuthnot speaks of " the meri- 
 dian of Grub-street ;" and Gay of " Grub-street lays." In the Taller , 
 No. 41, the authors are mentioned as faithful historians of an exercise 
 at arms of the Artillery Company. In the Spectator, No. 184, " one of 
 the most eminent pens'in Grub-street is employed in writing the dream 
 of the miraculous sleeper," Nicholas Hart ; and the orators of Grub- 
 street dealt very much in plagues. (Spectator, No. 150.) There was 
 also a Grub-street Journal ; and Swift wrote a Grub-street Elegy on 
 the pretended death of Partridge, the almanack-maker, and Advice to 
 the Grub-street Versifiers. The halfpenny newspaper- stamp duty of 
 1712, however, occasioned "the fall of the leaf," and utter ruin among 
 Grub-street authors. 
 
 "August?: Do you know that all Grub-street is dead and gone last week? 
 No more ghosts or murders now for love or money." Swift to Stella. 
 
 The Memoirs of the Grub-Street Society were commenced Jan. 8, 1730 (the year 
 before the Gentleman's Magazine,) and were published weekly until the close of , 
 1737. The avowed objects of the work were to counteract the original Grubeans, 
 vrho "made themselves most remarkably infamous for want of integrity, by 
 wilfully publishing what they knew to be false ;" and to repress " the exorbitances ! 
 of Authors, Printers, Booksellers, and Publishers." The Society met once a week 
 at the Pegasus, in Grub-street ; and the principals of the staff were Dr. John j 
 Martyn and Dr. Richard Russel* (Bavius and Mcevius), the latter being secretary I 
 untif 1735. The work was then conducted by a committee, but was dropped in 
 1737. after a struggle of six years, eleven months, and two weeks : it was revived as 
 the Literary Courier of Grub-street, of which only a few numbers were printed. 
 
 In these Memoirs, most of the personages of the Dunciad are unsparingly 
 satirised ; and the productions of Eusden, Cibber, Concanen, Curll, Dennis, I 
 Henley, Ralph, Arnall, Theobald, \Velsted, &c. are treated with great severity. I 
 The Memoirs " meeting with encouragement," says Sir John Hawkins, "Cavej 
 projected an improvement thereon in a pamphlet of his own ;" and in the follow- ' 
 ing year appeared the Gentleman's Magazine. 
 
 Grub-street figures in the Dunciad : 
 
 " Not with less glory mighty Dulness crown'd, 
 Shall take through Grub-street her triumphant round." 
 
 " Pope's arrows are so sharp, and his slaughter so wholesale, that the reader's] 
 sympathies are often enlisted on the side of the devoted inhabitants of Grub- 
 street. He it was who brought the notion of a vile Grub-street before the minds] 
 of the general public; he it was who created such associations as author and rag^ 
 author and dirt author and gin. The occupation of authorship became ignoble, 
 through his graphic descriptions of misery, and the literary profession was for <j 
 long time destroyed." W. M. Thackeray. 
 
 In his notes to the Dunciad, Bishop TVarburton describes a libellei 
 as "nothing but a Grub-street critic run to seed." Dr. Johnson's 
 friend, John Hoole, f received his early instruction in Grub-street, fronj 
 his uncle ''the metaphysical tailor," who used to draw squares anc 
 triangles on his shopboard. (BoswelFs Johnson, vol. iv.) 
 
 Grub-street was formerly " much inhabited by writers of smal 
 histories, dictionaries, and temporary poems ; whence any mean pro-' 
 duction is called Grub-street." (Johnson's Dictionary.) The Doctoi 
 himself " was but a Grub-street man, paid by the sheet, when Goldsmitl 
 entered Grub-street, periodical writer and reviewer." (Forster's Lif 
 of Goldsmith, p. 73.) 
 
 * Dr. Russel subsequently settled at Brighthelmstone, and wrote a Treatise o 
 Sea-Water, advocating the practice of sea-bathing, which laid the foundation ( 
 the unexampled prosperity of Brighton. 
 
 t Father of the Rev. Samuel Hoole, who was born in a hackney-coach, whic 
 was conveying his mother to Drury-lane Theatre to witness the performance ( 
 the tragedy of Timanthes, written by her husband. Mr. Samuel Hoole praye 
 with Johnson in his last illness : he'Jong kept as memorials the chair in whic 
 the Doctor usually sat, and the desk upon which he mostly wrote his Rambler 
 Mr. Hoole died in March, 1839. 
 
GUILDHALL. 337 
 
338 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the Great Fire of 1666, all the combustible parts of the edifio 
 were consumed ; but the walls are of such solidity, that the Hall stooi 
 in the flames " in a bright shining coal, as if it had been a palace o 
 gold, or a great building of burnished brass." After the Fire, the Hal 
 was repaired nearly as we now see it. In 1789, the southern front 
 which was highly enriched, was taken down, and the present heteroge 
 neous facade substituted by Dance ; the ancient porch being left, as i 
 to contrast with the poverty of the new design. In 1822, was takei 
 down the chapel built by Whittington on the east side of the Hall. 
 
 The figures in the porch personified Religion, Fortitude, Justice, and Ten 
 perance ; Law and Learning ; there was also a figure of our Saviour. After thei 
 removal, they lay in a cellar until Alderman Boydell, by permission of the Co: 
 poration, gave them to the eminent sculptor, Thomas Banks, R.A., after Mhos 
 death, in 1809, they were purchased for 100/. by Mr. Bankes, M.P. : they are fin 
 works of art, and are etched in Carter's Ancient Sculpture and Painting. 
 
 The Great Hall is internally decorated in coarse imitation of th 
 nave of Winchester Cathedral. The length of the Hall is 153 feet, il 
 breadth 50 feet, and height 55 feet. The side walls (5 feet thick) at 
 divided each into eight spaces by clustered columns and mouldingi 
 reaching from the pavement nearly to the summit of the cornice ; thei 
 heights having two ranges of traceried arches between panels ; in th 
 upper tier are handsome windows, now closed. At each end of th 
 Hall is a large Gothic window occupying the whole width, the arch< 
 resting on short columns, and retaining perfect their rich tracery. Th 
 tipper compartments are filled with painted glass (restored and moden 
 of the royal arms, and stars and jewels of the Garter, Bath, Thistli 
 and St. Patrick, in the east window ; and the City arms, supporter! 
 &c. in the west window. Beneath the eastern window, under cane 
 pies, and at the back of the spot where the ancient court of husting 
 is still holden, are statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, and Kin 
 Charles I. from the Guildhall chapel: they are said to be sculptured b 
 Stone. By an entry in the City records, the figure of Charles I. origi 
 nally occupied a place in the Royal Exchange. 
 
 In the angles at the opposite end of the hall, on lofty octagons 
 pedestals, are the celebrated colossal figures of the giants Gog an 
 Magog, sometimes called Gogmagog and Corinaeus. (See page 332 
 They were placed in their present position during the alterations ( 
 1815, having formerly stood on each side of the steps leading to th 
 upper rooms, these steps being where Beckford's monument now is; th 
 monument then standing against the great western window. 
 
 This old entrance was very picturesque: on each side of the step 
 was an octangular turreted gallery, balustraded, for the hall-keeper 
 each surrounded by iron-work palm-trees, supporting a balcony an 
 ornamented three-dial clock, and a resplendent gilt sun underneatl 
 The flanking giants, in their singular costume, gave the whole a 
 unique character. At the sides of the steps, under the hall-keeper 
 offices, were two dark cells, or cages, in which unruly apprentices wer 
 occasionally confined, by order of the City Chamberlain : these wer 
 called Little Ease, for a boy could not stand upright in them. 
 
 The capitals of the clustered columns, whence originally sprung th 
 open timber-roof, now bear guideron shields, with the arms of the t welv 
 Great Companies. After the destruction of the ancient roof, an add 
 tional story was raised to the summit of its lofty pitch, and the eigl 
 large circular-headed windows were added on each side; the ceilin 
 covering this is flat and square-paneled, an anomaly effected und( 
 Sir Christopher Wren's directions. The meanness of the side windov 
 strangely contrasts with the gorgeousness of the ends. 
 
 Three of the compartments on the north side of the hall, and one c 
 
GUILDHALL. 339 
 
340 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Dinner on Lord Mayor's Day is a magnificent spectacle : th< 
 Lord Mayor and his distinguished guests advance to the banquet bi 
 sound of trumpet ; and the superb dresses and official costumes of th^ 
 company, about 1200 in number, with the display of costly plate, is ven 
 striking. The Hall is divided: at the upper, or hustings tables, th< 
 courses are served hot; at the lower tables the turtle only is hot. Th< 
 baron of beef is brought in procession from the kitchen into the Hal 
 in the morning, and being placed upon a pedestal, at night is cut uj 
 by "the City carver." The Kitchen, wherein the dinner is^ dressed, is i 
 vast apartment ; the principal range is 16 feet long, and 7 feet high, am 
 a baron of beef (3 cwt ) upon the gigantic spit is turned by hand 
 There are 20 cooks, besides helpers ; 14 tons of coals are consumed 
 some 40 turtles are slaughtered for 250 tureens of soup ; and the serv 
 ing of the dinner requires about 200 persons, and 8000 plate-changes 
 Next morning the fragments of the Great Feast are doled out at th 
 kitchen-gate to the City poor. 
 
 The Crypt, under the Guildhall, and of the same age, is the fines 
 and most extensive remaining in London. (See CRYPTS, page 241.) 
 
 North of the Hall is the Court of Exchequer, formerly the King' 
 Bench Court. It was built immediately after the Great Hall (temp 
 Henry VI.) for the Mayor's Court, still held here. Some of the win 
 dows were glazed by the executors of Whittington, and emblazonei 
 with his arms : Stow describes among the glass, " the mayor picture^ 
 sitting in habite, party-coloured, and a hood on his head ; his swor< 
 before him, with an hatte or cap of maintenance ; the common cleark 
 and other officers bare-headed, their hoodes on their shoulders." Thi 
 Court had at the back of the judges' seats paintings of Prudence 
 Justice, Religion, and Fortitude. Here is a large picture by Alau: 
 of Paris, presented by Louis-Philippe, representing his reception of ai 
 address from the City on his visit to England in 1844 ; Humpherj 
 mayor, and many other portraits. Here also are portraits of Georg 
 III. and Queen Charlotte, by Ramsay ; and William III. and Queei 
 Mary, by Van der Voort. 
 
 The Common- Council Chamber contains, in a niche behind the Mayor' 
 chair, a marble statue of George III., by Chantrey, the inscription b; 
 Alderman Birch, in whose mayoralty, 1815, the statue was erected : o: 
 the right is a whole-length portrait of Queen Victoria, by Hayter ; an> 
 left are half-lengths of Caroline, queen of George IV., and he 
 daughter, the Princess Charlotte, both by Lonsdale; in the angles ar 
 busts of Nelson, by Mrs. Darner ; and Wellington, by Turnerelli. 
 
 North side: Portraits Chamberlain Clarke, by Lawrence; Aldermen Wait! 
 man and Wood, by Patten; Nelson, by Beechey; Lord Denman, by Mrs. Pearsoi 
 Busts, Granville Sharp, by Chantrey ; R. Lambert Jones and Thomas Clarksoi 
 by Behnes ; and Henry Beaufoy, by Marshall. Paintings. Defence of Gibralta 
 and burning of gun-boats, 1782. by Paton; Rodney's Victory, 1782, by Dodd ; an 
 Sir William Walworth killing vv a t Tyler, in Smithtield, by Northcote. East side 
 Siege of Gibraltar, by Copley, father of Lord Lyndhurst: it covers the entire sid< 
 and was painted by the artist raised on a platform. South side: Alderma 
 Boydell, by Beechey; Lord Heathfield, by Reynolds; Murder of Rizzio, by Opie 
 Lord Cornwallis, by Copley; Deience and Relief of Gibraltar, by Paton ; Rodne 
 breaking the French line, 1782, by Dodd; and bust of Alderman Waithman. 
 
 Here are also three pictures of municipal ceremonies and festivities : the Civi 
 Oath administered to Alderman Newnham, as Lurd Mayor, on the Hustings i 
 the Guildhall, Nov. 8, 1782, with 140 portraits ; the Lord Mayor's Show by Wate 
 boats by faton, figures by "Wheatley; and the Royal Entertainment in Guildhal 
 June 18, 1614, by Daniell,'R.A. 
 
 The Court of Aldermen is profusely gilded, and painted with allegor 
 cal figures of the City of London, Prudence, Justice, Temperance, an 
 Fortitude, by Sir James Thornhill, who was presented by the Coi 
 poration with a gold cup, value 225?. Is. (See page 2.) 
 
HACKNEY-COACHES. 341 
 
 The Chamberlains Office is on the right: he is keeper of the City 
 ash, regalia, and trust-money ; admits, on oath, persons to the free- 
 lorn of London, and registers and enrols all apprentices, adjudicates 
 etween them and their masters, and has power to commit either to 
 ride well. The Chamberlain bears on state occasions an ancient staff, 
 rmounted with a jewelled crown : this sceptre is presented with the 
 ity keys, mace, and sword, on the entry of the sovereign by Temple Bar; 
 id" is formally surrendered on the yearly re-election of the Chamberlain, 
 ovember 18. There is neither record nor tradition of a defalcation in 
 s office in upwards of 700 years. The Chamberlain's ancient seal is a 
 yal crown, lion passant, the City sword, and two keys: legend, 
 \gillum Camera Londini* 
 
 In the office hangs the picture of the battle of Towton, painted by 
 Iderman Boydell ; and here, where the City apprentices sign their 
 dentures, suggestively hangs a fine set of Hogarth's' prints of the 
 ndustrious and Idle Apprentices. 
 
 In the Chamberlain's Parlour are duplicate copies of the freedoms 
 d thanks voted to distinguished personages by the City ; they are fine 
 jecimens of penmanship, mostly by Mr. Tomiuns, whose portrait, by 
 eynolds (and said to be his latest picture,) hangs here. 
 
 In the Waiting Room, among the pictures are Reynolds's portrait of 
 e great Lord Camden, and Opie's Murder of James I. of Scotland. 
 
 A large folding-screen, painted, it is said, by Copley, represents the Lord Mayor 
 eckford delivering the City sword to King George III. at Temple Bar; interest- 
 g for its portraits and record of the costume of the period ; presented by Alder- 
 an Salomons to the City in 1850 Here, too, is a large picture of the battle of 
 dncourt, painted by Sir Robert Ker Porter, when 19 years of age, assisted by 
 i. Mulready, now R.A., and presented to the City in 1808. 
 
 In the Library, rich in books, tracts, and MSS. relating to the City, and 
 rst opened in 1828, are portraits of several aldermen ; and a Museum 
 
 relics discovered at Old London Bridge, the Royal Exchange, and 
 Isewhere in the City. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 In the Courts of "Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, built upon the 
 te of Guildhall chapel, by Montague, in 1823, are portraits of the 
 adges who adjudicated the disputed properties of the citizens after 
 he Great Fire 'of 1666. These and other pictures were formerly hung 
 i the Guildhall : in stormy political times they were occasionally in- 
 ired ; for, in the London Gazette of 1681, the Lord Mayor and Court 
 f Aldermen advertised a reward of 500/. for the discovery of the per- 
 km who offered an indignity to the portrait of the Duke of York 
 ITatnes II.) in the Guildhall, to shew their deep resentment at that 
 insolent and villanous act." 
 
 HACKNEY-COACHES. 
 
 Coaches were first let for hire in London in 1625, and were hence 
 ailed hackney-coaches ; that they were named from being first em- 
 loyed in conveying the citizens to their villas at Hackney, is a popu- 
 ir error, though supported by Maitland. The term is said to be from 
 le French haquenee, a slow-paced or ambling nag ; as, " he had in his 
 table an hackenay." (Chaucer's Romaunt of the Rose.) But haquenee 
 
 j * Wilkes was Chamberlain from 1779 until his death in 1797: he was suc- 
 beded by Alderman Richard Clark, who, when sheriff, took Dr. Johnson to a 
 jmges' dinner at the Old Bailey, the judges being Blackstone and Eyre. Mr. 
 lark, when 15, was introduced to Johnson, whom be last met at the Essex Head 
 lub. Clark died in " Cowley's House," at Chertsey, in 1831, aged 92. 
 
342 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "does not include the idea of hiring. To hack is to offer a thing f< 
 common sale or hire ; and a coach (along with the horses) kept for hi] 
 is a hackney-coach." (David Booth's Analytical Dictionary, p. 304 
 Hackney-coaches were first kept at inns, but soon got into the street 
 as appears from StraffbrcTs Letters, April 1634 : 
 
 " One Captain Bailey hath erected some four Hackney-coaches, put his men 
 livery, and appointed them to stand at the May-Pole in the Strand (where S 
 Mary's Church now is), giving them instructions at what rates to carry men in 
 several parts of the town, where all the day they may be had. Other hackne 
 men seeing this way, they flocked to the same place, and perform their journe; 
 at the same rate. So that sometimes there is twenty of them together, whi( 
 disperse up and down ; that they and others are to be had everywhere, as watt 
 men are to be had by the water-side." 
 
 A successful rival, however, soon appeared; when Sir Saunde 
 Buncombe, upon a petition to Charles L, stated the streets to be great 
 encumbered with the coaches, and that in many parts beyond sea pe< 
 pie were much carried in chairs that are covered, whereby few coach' 
 were used among them ; and the king granted Buncombe "the sole prii 
 lege to use, let, or hire a number of the said covered chairs for fourte< 
 years ;" the fare being Is. per mile. Yet the hackney-coaches had i 
 increased in 1635, as to be considered a nuisance by the Court, and to 1 
 limited by Star-chamber. In 3637, however, Charles granted a speci 
 commission to his master of the horse to license fifty hackney-coacl 
 men in London and Westminster, each to keep twelve horses, for aboi 
 200 coaches, which Sir William Bavenant describes as " uneasily huni 
 and so narrow that he took them for sedans on wheels." Their rat 
 were fixed by Act 14 Charles II. In 1694 they were limited to 700. 
 
 Hackney-coaches were first excluded from Hyde Park in 1695, when " seva 
 persons of quality having been affronted at the Ring by some of the persons th 
 rode in hackney-coaches with masks, and complaint thereof being made to tl 
 Lord Justices, an order is made that no hackney-coaches be permitted to go in 
 the said Park, and that none presume to appear there in masks." (Post-Bo 
 June 8, 1695.) And the exclusion continues to this day. 
 
 By coach was the usual mode of sight-seeing : " I took ( Tatle 
 June'lS, 1709) three lads, who are under my guardianship, a-ramblii 
 in a hackney-coach, to shew them the town ; as the lions, the tomb 
 Bedlam," &c. Gay's Trivia glances at this period : 
 
 " When on his box the nodding coachman snores, 
 And dreams of fancy'd fares." 
 
 In 1771 the number of coaches was fixed at 1000, and their far 
 were raised; again increased in 1799, and the office removed to Some 
 set House 1782 ; since 1833, their number has not been limited. 1 
 1814 hackney-chariots were introduced ; and in 1820 cabriolets, < 
 cabs. The double-seated hackney-coach was usually a cast-off carriag 
 often to be seen covered with the emblazoned arms of its former nob 
 owner ; and the driver notoriously "rude, exacting, and quarrelsome 
 Both coaches and chariots are drawn by a pair of horses; but the a 
 dispenses with one horse, and the fare is thus reduced one-thir 
 The cab (from Paris) was at first open and chaise-like, with a pah* 
 wheels, but very liable to accidents, which soon begat a host of" safet; 
 improvements. The cab, or sedan-like coach-body upon four whee 
 often reminds one of a seventeenth-century coach, such as we s 
 sculptured on Thynne's tomb in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 On July 7, 1852, the number of hackney-carriages (coaches, cabs, omnibus 
 and other stage carriages) licensed in the Metropolitan District was 3277; 
 which between 1100 and 1200 were omnibuses. In the year, Sept. 1, 1550, 
 Sept. 1, 1851, there were 6,039 drivers ; and 2152 articles found by drivers in ' 
 carriages, and deposited at the proper office; of which number, 1154 articles w 
 claimed by the owners. (See OMNIBUS and SEDAX.) 
 
HALLS. 343 
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES. 
 
 Foremost in vastness and antiquity is the Guildhall of the City of 
 Condon, already described. (See page 337.) The latter affords the 
 est idea of the Companies' ancient halls, the majority of which were 
 estroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. They were the guild-halls, from 
 he gild-hallas of the Anglo-Saxons, wherein wares were exposed for 
 ale, as in most towns of the Middle Ages. 
 
 The ancient Hall mostly had an open timber roof; whence the Fish- 
 
 nongers', and probably other Companies, suspended the properties of 
 
 heir pageants. In the centre of the roof was a louvre, or lantern ; at 
 
 jhe sides were Gothic windows, filled with painted glass; and beneath 
 
 ng gorgeous tapestry, which, in the Merchant -Tailors' Hall, con- 
 
 ined the history of their patron, St. John the Baptist. The floor was 
 
 rewed with rushes; the tables were planks placed on tressels; a 
 
 redos, or grand screen, crossed the apartment, hiding the entrances 
 
 the buttery, larder, and kitchen ; " the minstrailes" were in a gallery 
 
 oft; and there were temporary platforms or stages for players. 
 
 ther passages branched to the wine and ale cellars, and to the cham- 
 
 rs. Annexed to the buttery were the bakehouse and brewhouse; 
 
 e kitchen passage was guarded by a spiked hatch, and was well stored 
 
 th " spittes, rakkes, and rollars. ' There is also named in Brewers' 
 
344 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and if possible, they chose a saint who either bore a relation to their trade, or 
 some other analogous circumstance. The Fishmongers a 'opted St. Peter, and m 
 at St Peter's church ; the Drapers chose the Virgin Mary, mother of the ' Ho 
 Lamb,' or fleece, as the emb'em of that trade, and appropriately asspmbled, ; 
 like manner, at St. Mary Bethlem church, Rishopsgate; the Goldsmiths' pitrc 
 wa St. Dunstan, reported to have been a brother artisan ; the Merchant-Tailor 
 another branch of the draping business, marked their connexion with it by selec 
 ing St. John Baptist, who was the harbinger of the holy Lamb, so adopted by tl 
 Drapers: and which, as being anciently cloth-dealers, still constitutes the ere 
 of that society. 
 
 " In other cases, the Companies denominated themselves fraternities of tl 
 particular saint in whose church or chapel they assembled, and had their alta 
 Thus, the Grocers called themselves the fraternity of St. Anthony, because th< 
 had their altar in St. Anthony's church ; the Vintners, 'the fraternity of St. Ma 
 tin,' from the like connexion with St. Martin's Vintry church : and the Skinne 
 and the Sailers, both societies of Corpus Christi, from meeting, the one at the alt 
 of that name in St. Laurence Poultry church ; and the other at Corpus Chris 
 chapel, in All Saints, Bread-street." (Herbert's Hist, of the Twelve Great Live'. 
 Companies, vol. i. p. fi6-7.) Nor until after the Reformation could the fraterniti 
 be regarded as strictly secular. 
 
 In their processions to church the Companies were joined by tl 
 religious orders in their rich costumes, bearing wax torches and sinj; 
 ing, and frequently attended by the lord mayor and great civic auth< 
 rities in state. Funerals were as religiously observed by them ; and 1 
 celebrate with becoming grandpur the obsequies of deceased member 
 almost the whole of these fraternities kept a state-pall, or hears* 
 cloth, a few of which are preserved to this day ; members of superk 
 rank were followed to interment by the lord mayor and civic ai 
 thorities ; and it was customary to provide funeral dinners, with sun 
 left by the deceased, or sent after death by the relatives to their Halh 
 such sums, temp. Elizabeth and James, were generally not less than 20 
 
 " The greit Sir Philip Sidney, who was publicly buried at ?t. Paul's Cathedr 
 in 1587, was a brother of the Grocers' Company, and %vas attended by that live] 
 in all their formalities, who were preceded by the lord mayor, aldermen, an 
 sheriffs, ' rydinge in purple. 1 The number of the Grocers' livery amounted 
 120, and are represented in a print of the procession by De Brie." Nichols 
 Progresses of Queen Elizabeth, ii pp. 19-26. 
 
 At the funeral of Sir Thomas Lovell (of Shakspeare memory, at Hoiywe 
 Nunnery, Shoreditch), "the gentlemen of the inns of court (Sir Thomas bui 
 Lincoln's-Inn fine gateway), with certeyn crafts of London" received the corpi 
 at the convent gate, accompanied by the mayor and aldermen, who, on the bod 
 being placed under the hearse, or canopy, encircled the rails, and repeated tl 
 De profundis. Meanwhile, "there was a drynkynge in all the cloister, the none; 
 halls and parlors of the said place." 
 
 The Election -feasts in the Halls, temp. Henry TV., were partake 
 of by the first nobility, and even princes, besides the city dignitaries 
 when the luxuries included the mighty "baron" or " ribbes of beef, 
 " frumentie with venison," brawn, fat swan, boar, congor, sea-hoj 
 and other delicacies stored above the salt;* whilst " sotilties" of th 
 Company's patron, trade, or saint, recalled the origin of the fraternity 
 and there were " voyds of spice-bread, ypocras, and comfits," to th 
 renewed " noise" (music) of the minstrels, or " waits." or the high* 
 merriment of the London clerks " playing some holy play." 
 
 Thus, 5th September, 1419, 17 Henry V., we h" ve the following Election-dinn 
 of the Brewers' Company, the "Ordinaire de la Feste," in Norman-French: 
 First Course. Brawn with mustard ; cabbages to the potiage ; swan standar* 
 
 * The salt, or salt-cellar, was a magnificent piece of pia'e, forming, in t 
 Middle Ages, a division between the upper an<! lower part of the tab'e. Mr. F< 
 broke believed one, in the Tower of London, and of silver-gilt, to belong to t 
 Mercers' Company. To be seated above the salt was a mark of honour ; and o 
 ancestors seem often to have placed persons below it in order to mortify them. 
 
HALLS. 345 
 
 capons roasted ; great custards. (For the "fat swan" and the cygnet, the citizens 
 had their annual " swan uppings.") 
 
 Second Course. Venison in broth, with white mottreids; cony standard; 
 partridges, with cocks roasted ; leche lumbard, doucetts with little parneuse. 
 
 Third Course. Pears in syrop ; great birds with little ones together; fritters, 
 paynpuffs with a cold baked meat. 
 
 The cost of another Election-feast of the Brewers, A.D. 1425, was 381. 4*. 2d., 
 a very large sum, considering that money was then of five times its present value. 
 Melted fat, or lard, was then used where we now use butter, then a great dainty; 
 as was also sugar, the place of which was supplied by honey. Furmenty, the 
 furmentaria of Ducange, was wheat boiled in milk, such as is eaten to this day. 
 " Aromatising" the Hall with the precious Indian wood, sanders, and Brazil 
 wood, by fumigation, greatly enlivened the table. Not only did widows, wives, 
 and single women, who were members of the Company, join the feast ; but from 
 the Grocers' ordinances of 1348, "bretherene" could introduce their wives or 
 companions, and damsels ; indeed, a wife was not to be excused, unless "malade, 
 ou grosse danfant, et pres sa deliverance. 1 ' 
 
 The Election-ceremonies took place after the feast, when the 
 newlv-elected principals were crowned " with garlondes on their 
 hedes." Then followed the " loving cup," as is still the custom ;* and 
 next the minstrels and players; the minstrels including harpers, who 
 [plaved and sang in the intervals of the others sounding their cornets, 
 shaims, flutes, horns, and pipes. The dramas then in fashion often con- 
 | sisted of single subjects ; and this taste continued till long after the 
 establishment of the regular theatres. In the Guildhall library is an 
 original license from the master of the revels, in 1662, authorising 
 " George Bailey, musitioner, and eight servants, his company, to play 
 for one year a play called Noah's Flood ;" these eight persons per- 
 | sonating the patriarch and his family. 
 
 The Companies' Barges also formed pageants, now greatly shorn 
 of their splendour. Thus, at the coronation of the queen of Henry VII., 
 she was attended "from Greenwich" by water, by " the maior, shrifes, 
 and aldermen of the citie, and divers and many worshipfull comoners, 
 chosen out of every crafte, in their liverays, in barges freshly furnished 
 with banners and stremers of silke, rechely beaton with the armes and 
 bagges of their craftes." In the same reign, among " a great and 
 goodly nombre of barges," either fastened up, or " roweing and skym'- 
 ying in the riv' and Thamys," was, " first for the cittie of London, the 
 mayer's barge, the sherevys' barge, aldermens dy r rs bargs ; and then 
 the crafts of the cytie, having their standards and stremers, w l ther 
 conizances fight weel dekkyd, and replenyshid w* w r shipfull company 
 of the citizens." 
 
 The earliest Triumph, Pageant, or " Riding," connected with the trades, oc- 
 curred in 1298, on the return of Edward I. from his victory over the Scots, when 
 " every citizen, according to their severall trades, made their several shew." They 
 also joined in coronation processions, as that of Henry IV in 1399, when Froissart 
 states Cheapside to have had seven fountains running with red and white wine; 
 the different Companies of London, led by their wardens, were clothed in their 
 
 * " The Loving Cup" is a splendid feature of the Hall-feasts of the City and Inns 
 of Court. The Cup is of silver, or silver-gilt, and is filled with spiced wine, 
 immemorially termed " sack." Immediately after the dinner and grace, the 
 Master and Wardens drink to their visitors a hearty welcome; the cup is 
 then passed round the table, and each guest, after he has drunk, applies his 
 napkin to the mouth of the cup before he passes it to his neighbour. The more 
 formal practice is for "the person who pledges with the loving cup to stand up 
 and bow to his neighbour, who, also standing, removes the cover with his right 
 hand, and holds it while the other drinks; a custom said to have originated in 
 the precaution to keep the right, or ' dagger-hand,' employed, that the person who 
 drinks may be assured of no treachery, like that practised by Elfrida on the 
 unsuspecting King Edward the Martyr, at Corfe Castle, who was slain while 
 drinking. This was why the loving cup possessed a cover. F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A. 
 
346 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 proper liveries, and bore banners of their trades. Chaucer describes an idle City 
 apprentice of his day : 
 
 " When there any ridings were in Chepe, 
 Out of the shoppe thider would he lepe; 
 And till that he had all the sight ysein, 
 And danced wel, he would not come again." 
 
 From this sketch of the early Halls of the Companies, and their 
 ancient state and observances, we proceed to the City Halls of the present 
 day, commencing with the 
 
 HALLS OF THE TWELVE GREAT COMPANIES, 
 in their order of precedency. 
 
 1. MERCERS' HALL, Cheapside, between Ironmonger-lane and 
 Old Jewry, occupies the site of the ancient hospital of St. Thomas 
 Aeon's, whereon the Mercers first settled in London, hence called "the 
 Mercery." On the site of the present entrance to the Hall from Cheap- 
 side stood the house of Gilbert Becket, father of Becket, archbishop 
 of Canterbury; after whose murder was built here, by his sister Agnes 
 and her husband, a chapel and hospital, destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 166G. Soon after were built upon the same site the present Hall and 
 Chapel; the front of the latter, by Wren, now only remains: above 
 the ornamented doorway are cherubim mantling the Virgin's head, the 
 
 columns, is the hall, handsomely wainscoted and carved : here are held 
 the Gresham Committees. Among the paintings are original portraits 
 of Sir Thomas Gresham and Dean Colet ; and a fanciful portrait of 
 Whittington. Among the Mercers' Trust-estates are St. Paul's and 
 Mercers' Schools. (See pp. 217 and 219.) 
 
 The Mercers' is the first of all the Twelve Companies, and of it there have been 
 several kings, princes, and nobility; and to 1708, ninety-eight had been lord 
 mayors, and one as early as 1214: Richard II., who granted the first charter in 
 1393, was a mercer; as were also Whittington and the illustrious Gresham. 
 Among the Company's documents are a curious illustration of Whittington dy'ng 
 (ordinances of his college), and portraits of the first three wardens. In 1513, the 
 Mercers possessed Conduit Mead, now covered by New Bond-street, which, had 
 they retained, it would more than quadruple the value of all their present estates. 
 (Herbert.) Among their property is the north side of Long Acre (about 8| acres,) 
 and the adjacent streets, including Mercer-street; in 1650, "part of the posses- 
 sions of Charles Stuart, late King of England, for which the warden and com- 
 pany then paid to the Crown 13*. id. per annum. There is scarcely a single 
 mercer in the Company at the present day." (Herbert.) Sir Baptist Hicks 
 (founder of the Campden family) was a great mercer in Cheapside, who supplied 
 the court when James I. and " his bare Scotch nobility and gentry came in :" he 
 built the first Hicks's Hall, and was one of the first citizens that after knighthood 
 kept their shops. 
 
 The Mercers' Company lend money to livery-men, or freemen, without interest, 
 upon approved security. The Company also established the first insurance office 
 for lives, in 169S. (Hatton.) The Golden Lectureship is in their gift. 
 
 The Mercers' Election-Cup, of early sixteenth-century work, is 
 silver-gilt, decorated with fretwork and female busts; the feet, flasks; 
 and on the cover is the popular legend of an unicorn yielding its horn to 
 a maiden. The whole is enamelled with coats of arms, and these lines : 
 " To elect the master of the mercerie hither am I sent, 
 And by Sir Thomas Leigh for the same intent." 
 
 The Company also possess a silver-gilt Wagon and Tun, covered 
 with arabesques and enamels, of sixteenth-century work. 
 
 * In a shop in the porch of Mercers' Chapel, Guy (founder of Guy's Hospital) 
 was apprenticed to a bookseller in 1660; and the house rebuilt after the Great 
 Fire was rented by Guy, then a master-bookseller. 
 
HALLS : GROCERS' HALL. 347 
 
 2. GROCERS' HALL, Grocers' Hall-court, Poultry,* is the third edifice 
 built for the Company, upon " voide grounde sum tyme the Lord Fitz- 
 walter's halle :" the first was completed in 1428, in a large garden, and 
 had an ancient turret, probably part of the Fitzwalter mansion, and 
 one of the oldest buildings within the City walls. This Hall was let 
 "for dinners, funerals, county feasts, and weddings;" in 1641, "the 
 Grand Committee of Safety" removed its sittings from Guildhall here; 
 Cromwell and Fairfax were feasted here by the Grocers ; and at the 
 ^Restoration, Gen. Monk. In the Great Fire of 1666, the roof and 
 wood-work of the Hall only were destroyed ; the old walls were then 
 newly roofed, and in 1668-9, the parlour and dining-room were rebuilt 
 by Sir John Cutler, four times master of the Company, who passed him 
 ""a strong vote of thanks," and his statue and picture, thus proving 
 Cutler to have been the reverse of the miser described by Pope, whose 
 satire, however, has reached far beyond the Grocers' gratitude. The 
 old Hall, which had "a Gothic front and bow-windows," was renovated, 
 in 1681, by Sir John Moore, who kept his mayoralty at Grocers' Hall, 
 and paid the Company 2001 rent ; and it was let for the same object 
 till 1735. The Bank of England held their courts here from 1694 to 
 1734. The present Hall was built upon the ancient site between 1798 
 and 1802,1 (T. Leverton, architect,) and thoroughly repaired in 1827, 
 when the statue of Sir John Cutler, weather-beaten in the garden, was 
 renovated, and removed into the Hall ; and the garden-front was 
 enriched with the arms of the Company on each side their crest, and a 
 loaded camel, emblematic of the ancient conveyance of the grocer's 
 commodities. The Hall is spacious, and has a music-gallery : here are 
 Cutler's portrait, a fine picture; portraits of Sir John Moore and Sir 
 John Fleet : and on the staircase are the Company's arms, painted on 
 glass by Willement. The Grocers munificently support various free 
 schools, almshouses, exhibitions, &c. ; and the gifts for loans to poor 
 members amount to 4670/. 
 
 The Grocers' Company, originally Pepperers, next united with the Apothe- 
 caries, was incorporated by Edward III., in 1435, as "the Mystery of Grocers:" 
 among other privileges, they possessed the management of the Kings' Beam, at 
 the Weighing-house. Charles II. and William III. Mere masters of the Com- 
 
 fany ; and among the eminent Grocers were the Duke of York, afterwards James 
 I. ; George Monk, Duke of Albemarle ; and Sir Philip Sidney, at whose funeral 
 the Company rode in procession. In the reign of Henry IV., twelve aldermen 
 were of the Grocers' Company at the same time. The fraternity also boasts of 
 the patriotic Sir John Philpot; John Churchman, who founded the Custom House; 
 Thohias Knolles, who began the Guildhall; Sir John Crosby, of Crosby House; 
 Sir William Laxton, founder of Oundle School ; and Laurence Shireff, of Rugby ; 
 besides the vilified Sir John Cutler. The Company sold their plate in aid of the 
 defence of the City in the Civil Wars, and were famed for their loyal and costly 
 pageants. In the Great Fire, they lost nearly all their property, except a few 
 tenements in Grub-street, when they assembled in the turret-house in their 
 garden : their hall was once seized for debt, in part from loans made to the City; 
 but the Grocers, like the rest of the Companies, recovered their position before the 
 Revolution of 1688; and in the year after, William became sovereign master of 
 the Grocers. By a charter of Henry VI., confirmed by Charles I., the wardens 
 of the Company, or their deputies, could, like modern excisemen, enter drug- 
 gists', apothecaries', and confectioners', as well as grocers', shops, and impose 
 fines, and even imprisonment, for deceits; always seizing the spurious articles. 
 
 The statutes of the ancient Pepperers (mentioned temp. Henry II., and pro- 
 bably a guild long before,) exist among the City archives. The Grocers first 
 existed as a sort of club. Twenty-two Pepperers in Sopers-lane, Cheapside (now 
 
 * Anciently " Conningshop-lane," i. e. cony-shop-lane, from the sign of three 
 conies (rabbits), hanging over a poulterer's stall at the lane end. 
 
 t The garden was then nearly severed in half for enlarging Prince's-street. 
 For this latter slice, which cost the Grocers 311. 17*. 8d. in 1433, the Company 
 received from the Bank of England more than 20,OOOJ. (Herbert.) 
 
348 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a part of Queen-street), on the 12th of June, 1345, after dinner, elected two of 
 their number wardens, and appointed a chaplain to celebrate divine offices for 
 their souls. Every member at the feast subscribed 1*. to pay for it, and con- 
 tributions were then made towards the chaplain's salary. 
 
 The Grocers met in 1345 and 1346, at the town-mansion of the 
 Abbot of Bury, in St. Mary Axe, now Bevis Marks; in 1347, "at the 
 abbot's place'of St. Edmund;" in 1348, " at the house of one Fulge- 
 man, called the Kyngdehall," near Garlickhythe; where, and at the 
 hotel of the abbot of St. Cross, they continued till 13&3, when they 
 took up their temporary residence in Bucklersbury, at the Cornets' 
 Tower, used by Edward III as his exchange of money and exchequer. 
 
 3. DRAPERS' HALL is in Throgmorton- street, where the Company 
 settled in 1541, in a large mansion built temp. Henry VIII., " in the 
 place of olde and small tenements, by Thomas Cromwell, Mayster of 
 the King's Jewel-house," and afterwards Earl of Essex; upon whose 
 attainder, the property was purchased by the Drapers and made their 
 " Common Hall," till about the period of "the Great Fire of 16G6, which 
 was here stopped in its progress northward. 
 
 Stow relates that his father had a garden adjoining Cromwell's, and close to his 
 south pale a house, which, by the Mayster' s order, was removed upon rollers, so 
 as to gain a strip of ground, as Cromwell had taken from other neighbours. " Xo 
 man." says Stow, " durst go to argue the matter, but each man lost his land, and 
 my father payed his whole rent, which was vj. vijd. the yeare, for that halfe 
 which was left Thus much of mine owne knowledge have I thought good to note, 
 that the s daine rising of >ome men causeth them to forget themselves." 
 
 Cromwell's House is figured on Aggas's plan with four embattled 
 turrets. The garden, which is well kept up to this day, became cele- 
 brated in 1551, when the country lay open in its rear nearly all the 
 way to Hampstead and Highgate (see* GARDENS, p. 321). 
 
 Although the Fire of London stopped at Drapers' Hall, it was " all 
 consumed to ashes;" but the Company's property was saved by removing 
 it into the garden, and "watching it ther for seaven days and nights." 
 The Hall was rebailt by Jarman, but nearly destroyed by fire in 1774, 
 after which it was partly rebuilt (as we now see" it) by the brothers 
 Adam. It consists of a quadrangle surrounded by an ambulatory of 
 arches and columns ; the front in Throgmorton-street is highly enriched 
 with stone-work, but the Drapers' arms over the gateway have for 
 supporters lions instead of leopards. On the noble stone staircase is 
 a marble bust of George IV. The Hall ceiling is embellished with 
 Phaeton and the signs of the zodiac ; the screen is curiously carved, 
 and above it is a fine portrait of Lord Nelson by Beechey; and over 
 the master's chair is a half-length on panel (in oil, and therefore not 
 contemporary) of Fitz-Alwin, the first Mayor of London, whom the 
 Drapers claim as of their Company, whereas Stow and other writers 
 describe him of the Goldsmiths'. In the wainscoted gallery are full- 
 length portraits of the English sovereigns from William III. to 
 George IA r ., the last by Lawrence ; with the celebrated whole-length of 
 Mary Queen of Scots and her son James I., ascribed to Zucchero, tra- 
 ditionally said to have been thrown over the wall into the Drapers' 
 garden during the Fire of London, and never afterwards owned: it 
 has been copied by Spiridione Roma, and engraved by Bartolozzi. 
 
 There is another tradition of this picture: that Sir Anthony Babington, con- 
 fidential Secretary to Queen Mary, had her portrait, which he deposited for safety 
 either at Merchant-Tailors' Hall or Drapers' Hall, and that it had never come 
 back to Sir Anthony or his family. It has been insinuated that Sir William 
 Boreman, clerk to the Board of Green Cloth in the reign of Charles II., purloined 
 this picture from one of the royal palaces. Some have suggested that it is the 
 portrait of Lady Dulcibella Boreman, the wife of Sir William; hut the style and 
 costume are much older. See The Crypt, No. 4, Oct. 10, 1827. 
 
HALLS: DRAPERS' HALL. 349 
 
 In the Court-room is a marble bas-relief of the Company receiving 
 itheir charter. In the ladies' chamber, balls are given. In the Livery- 
 room, among other portraits, is a three-quarter length of Sir Robert 
 Clayton, by Kneller, 1680; and a small portrait of Thomas Bagshaw 
 (died 1794), beadle to the Company forty years. The windows of this 
 jroom look into the private garden, where are a fountain and statue. 
 
 The Drapers' Company was founded in 1332, and incorporated in 1364; they 
 possess seven original charters, finely written, and claim to reckon more lord 
 mayors than any other Company, Strjpe states 87 years'. Their grant of arms, 
 
 lin 1439, is the only document of its kind of so early a date; the Heralds' College 
 possessing none of the arms of the London Livery Companies. The Drapers' grant 
 is kept at the British Museum, and contains illustrative historical notices of the 
 Company; and the books continue its history lor above two centuiies. In the 
 Wardens' accounts are apprentice-fees, called "Spoon Silver;" " potacions at 
 our Lady Fair in Southwark," &c. In an entry ot 1485, pippins are first men- 
 tioned ; 1491, "the aldermen of the taslo's were trrateu with brede and wine at 
 Drapers' halle :" 1494, " for cresset-staffs and banners, and bread, aJe, and candell, 
 
 iin keeping xij. days' watch after the liot at the Steel-yard," 11*. 9d.; 'Sor a barge 
 two times to the Shene (Richmond), to speak w'h the King;" 1496, the Drapers 
 " riding to the king at Woodstock," accompanied by " Mr. Recorder, Mr. Fauyan," 
 anil other eminent persons ; 1509, 1 14*. "for xij. torches for the beryall of King 
 
 (Henry the Vllth, weying ccxx lb& - and 1 quart 1 ; 1521, the Drapers .ook the lead in 
 
 : settling the contribution required by tiie Government from the Great Companies 
 towards furnishing ships of discovery under the command of Sebastian Cabot. 
 
 The Company had "the Drapeis' Ell" granted 10 them by Edward III., for 
 measuring the cloth sold at St. Bartholomew's and Southwark fairs; it bore the 
 name of "the Yard," "the Company's Standaru," &c. In the entries for relief 
 "to those fallen in poverty," 1526, is ij. and liijd. to Sir Laurence Aylmer, one 
 of the Drapers, two or three times Master of the Company, Sheriff 1501, and Lord 
 Mayor 1507-8. 
 
 The Dress or Livery of this Company varied more than that of any other, and 
 
 jthe colours were changed at almost every election until temp. James I., when a 
 uniform livery was adopted; their observances consisting of election ceremonies, 
 funerals, obits, and pageantries at state and civic triumphs. At tiieir last public 
 procession in 1751, their poor carried a pair of shoes and stockings, and a suit of 
 clothes, an annual legacy. 
 
 The Drapers had a Hall in St. Swithin's-lane, Cannon-street, 
 whither they removed from Cornhill. The St. Swithin's-lane Hall is 
 first mentioned in 1405 ; when we find entered "a hammer to knock upon 
 the table," the great parlour, the " high table" of the dimng-hall (then 
 strewed with rushes), the ladies' chamber, and the chekker chamber, 
 all which at feasts were hung with tapestry : the kitchen had three fire- 
 places. The ladies' chamber (an apartment which the Drapers still 
 j retain) was solely for the sisters of the fraternity, and in which they 
 occasionally had separate dinners, instead of mixing with the company 
 in the hall. The married ladies only, and those of the highest class, 
 were the guests, "the chekker chamber being for maydens. ' A ladies' 
 feast in 1515 included brawn and mustard, capon boiled, swan roasted, 
 pyke, venison baked and roast, jellies, pastry, quails, sturgeon, salmon, 
 and wafers and ipocras. 
 
 The Drapers thus early gave more splendid feasts than any other 
 Company, their guests usually being the dignified and conventual clergy ; 
 including the abbot of Tower Hill, the prior of St. Mary Overy, Christ- 
 church, and St. Bartholomew ; the provincial and the prior of " Freres 
 Austyn's," the masters of St. Thomas Aeon's and St. Lawrence Ftilte- 
 ney. The sisters formed part of the usual guests, as did also the wives 
 of members, whether enrolled amongst them or not : and vi.-itors of high 
 rank were personally waited on by the heads of the Company. Among 
 the items of the Midsummer Feast, 1514-15, is perhaps the earliest 
 mention of players as companies: "To Johan Sly e and his company, 
 for ij. plays on Monday and Tewsday," including " liobert "Williams, the 
 
350 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Harp, and Henry Colet, the Lut, iiij s ." Among the rules " for the syt- 
 tyng in ye halle" was, " No brother of the frafnite to presume to sytte 
 at any table in the halle tyll the mayr and the states have wasshed and 
 be sett att the hygh table, on peyne of iij s . iiij d ." 
 
 The Drapers' Company have very large estates, and are trustees of 
 numerous beneficent bequests, besides Almshouses. There are many 
 females free of the Company, who invariably come on the list to par- 
 ticipate in the charities. The Earls of Bath and Essex, the Barons 
 Wotton, and the Dukes of Chandos, derive their descent from members 
 of the Drapers' Company. 
 
 4. FISHMONGERS' HALL, at the north-west foot of London Bridge, 
 was rebuilt by Roberts in 1830-3, and is the third of the Company's 
 Halls nearly on this site.* It is raised upon a lofty basement cased 
 with granite, and containing fireproof warehouses, which yield a large 
 rental. The river front has a balustraded terrace, and a Grecian-Ionic 
 hexastyle and pediment. The east or entrance front is enriched with 
 pilasters and columns, and has in the attic the arms of the Company, 
 and two bas-reliefs of sea-horses. The entrance-hall is separated from 
 the great staircase by a screen of polished Aberdeen granite columns ; 
 and at the head of the stairs is a statue, carved in wood by E. Pierce, 
 of Sir William Walworth, a Fishmonger, who carries a dagger. 
 
 In his hand was formerly a dagger, said to be the identical weapon with whicl 
 he stabbed Wat Tyler, though in 1731 a publican of Islington pretended to 
 possess the actual poniard. Beneath the statue is the inscription : 
 
 " Brave Walworth, knight, lord-mayor, y* slew 
 
 Rebellious Tyler in his alarmes ; 
 The King, therefore, did give in liew 
 
 The dagger to the City armes. 
 In the 4th year of Richard II. anno Domini 1381." 
 
 A common but erroneous belief was thus propagated ; for the dagger was in th< 
 City arms long before the time of Sir William Walworth, and was intended t< 
 represent the sword of St. Paul, the patron saint of the Corporation. 
 
 The reputed dagger of Walworth, which has lost its guard, is preserved bj 
 the Company : the workmanship is of Walworth's period. The weapon now ii 
 the hand of the statue, (which is somewhat picturesque, and in our recollection 
 was coloured en costume,) is modern. 
 
 The Company has numbered about fifty lord mayors, among whon 
 was Sir William Walworth, who, in his second mayoralty, slew Wa1 
 Tyler, commemorated in a pageant in 1740 by a personation of Wal- 
 worth, dagger in hand, and the head of Wat Tyler carried on a pole 
 Next among the lord mayors was Sir Stephen Foster, who rebuill 
 Ludgate prison ; Sir Thomas Abney, the friend of Dr. Isaac Watts 
 and Matthew Wood, twice lord mayor, 1816 and 1817. Dogget, th< 
 comedian, was a Fishmonger ; and his bequest of a coat and a silver badge 
 is in the direction of this Company, who have added four money-prizes 
 
 Thomas Dogget, who wrote The Country Wake, a comedy, 1696, was born ii 
 Castle-street, Dublin. He first appeared on the Dublin stage; and subsequently 
 with Robert Wiiks and Colley Cibber, became joint-manager of Dairy-lam 
 Theatre. He was a friend of Congreve. who wrote for him the characters o 
 Fondlewife in the Old Bachelor, and Benin Love for Love. Dogget's style o 
 acting was very original, and he was an excellent dresser. He died in 1721, am 
 being a staunch Whig, bequeathed a sum of money to purchase a coat and silve 
 badge, to be rowed for on the Thames on the 1st of August annually, to com 
 memorate the accession of the House of Hanover to the throne of Great Britain 
 " Tom Dogget. the greatest sly drole in his parts, 
 In acting was certain a master of arts ; 
 
 * Part of the site of the present Hall was then purchased at the rate of 630,000 
 per acre ! 
 
HALLS: FISHMONGERS' HALL. 351 
 
 A monument left no herald is fuller, 
 
 His praise is sung yearly by many a sculler; 
 
 Ten thousand years hence, if the world lasts so long, 
 
 Tom Dogget will still be the theme of their song ; 
 
 When old Noll, with great Lewis and Bourbon, are forgot, 
 
 And when numberless kings in oblivion shall rot." 
 
 Written on a window-pane at Lambeth, August 1, 1736. 
 
 The Garrick Club possess an original portrait of Dogget. (See page 194.) 
 The Court dining and drawing rooms face the river, of which they 
 lave a fine view, with the Kent and Surrey hills. The banqueting-hall 
 is 73 feet by 38 feet, and 33 feet high, and has Sienna scagliola Corinthian 
 pilasters, between which are suspended the arms of the benefactors and 
 past prime-wardens of the Company ; at one end of the hall are the royal 
 arms, and opposite, those of the Goldsmiths, in stained glass; and on 
 the front of the music-gallery are emblazoned the arms of the City and 
 Twelve Great Companies : this introduction of heraldic insignia in a 
 recian hall being novel, but very striking, and especially when lighted 
 p by eight chandeliers. Among the Curiosities, besides Sir W. Wai- 
 worth's dagger, is his funeral pall, of cloth-of-gold ; the sides em- 
 broidered with the Saviour giving the Keys to St. Peter, and the 
 Fishmongers' Arms; and the ends with the Deity and ministering 
 Angels : here, too, is a plan of the show at Walworth's installation as 
 may or, probably the oldest representation of a lord mayor's show extant. 
 Here also are eight curious pictures of fish, by Spiridione Roma, skil- 
 fully grouped and correctly coloured. Among the portraits are William 
 [II. and Queen, by Murray; George II. and Queen, by Shackleton ; 
 ihe Duke of Kent and Admiral Earl St. Vincent, by Beechey ; and Queen 
 [Victoria, by Herbert Smith. In the Court dining-room is a splendid 
 silver chandelier, weight 1350 oz. 14 dwts. 
 
 The Fishmongers' Company was formed by the junction of the two Companies 
 bf Salt Fishmongers and Stock Fishmongers, and was incorporated by Henry VIII. 
 in 153fi : yet long before either of the above dates the Fishmongers were united 
 hs a brotherhood, and, from the extent of their trade in Roman Catholic times, 
 pad obtained great sway and affluence. In 1290, they were fined 500 marks for 
 Forestalling; and in 1382, Parliament enacted that "no Fishmonger should for 
 :he future be admitted Mayor of the City," which prohibition was, however, 
 L-emoved next year. Before the union of the Salt and Stock Fishmongers, they 
 had "six several Halls : in Thames-street, twain ; in New Fish-street, twain ; and 
 in Old Fish-street, twain." Stow. 
 
 The first Hall of the joint Company in Thames-street, in Hollar's 
 kiew, 1647, has a dining-hall across the original quadrangle : the whole 
 bile was of stone, embattled, and reaching to the water's edge ; it had 
 Tudor-shaped windows and square wing-towers, and altogether re- 
 [iembled a castle. In the Great Fire of 1666, 
 "A key of fire ran all along the shore, 
 And frighten'd all the river with a blaze." Dryden's Annus Mirabilis. 
 
 The hall was entirely destroyed, but was rebuilt by Jarman by 
 IG71 : this edifice had a stately river-front, with an entrance from 
 jrhames-street, and was taken down in 1831, the Company having sold 
 i portion of the land to the City for the new London Bridge approach. 
 Among the Trust-estates and Charities of the Company is St. Peter's 
 Hospital, originally erected at Newington, but taken down in 1851, and 
 rebuilt on Wandsworth Common. (See ALMSHOUSES, page 5.) 
 
 The Stock-Fishmongers, from the earliest times, adopted St. Michael's 
 phurch, Crooked-lane (rebuilt and enlarged by their two eminent 
 nembers, John Lovekyn and William Walworth,) as their general 
 mrial-place, to which they added " the Fishmongers' Chapel." St. 
 Michael's was destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt by Wren, but 
 vas taken down in 1831 for the new London Bridge approach. 
 
352 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 5. GOLDSMITHS' HALL, Foster-lane, Cheapside, back of the General 
 Post Office, built by Philip Hardwick, R.A., 1832-35, is the most magni- 
 ficent City Hall, and the third erected for the Company on this site ; its 
 cost being defrayed without trenching on their funds for charitable pur- 
 poses. The architecture is Italian, seventeenth and eighteenth cen- 
 turies : the building is 180 feet in front and 100 feet in depth, completely 
 insulated; the basement is Hay tor granite, and the superstructure fine 
 Portland stone. The west or principal faade has six attached Corin- 
 thian columns, the whole height of the front, supporting a rich Corin- 
 thian entablature and bold cornice of extraordinary beauty, continued 
 all round the building. The east, north, and south fronts are decorated 
 with pilasters, which also terminate the angles. The plinth is 6 feet 
 high, and some of the blocks in the column-shafts and entablature 
 weigh from 10 to 12 tons each. The windows of the principal story 
 have enriched and bold pediments, supported by handsome trusses, and 
 the centre windows have massive balustraded balconies; the echinus 
 moulding in this storv is much admired. The intercolumniations of the 
 centre above the first' floor, in place of the continuation of the windows 
 of the second story, have the Company's arms, festal emblems, and 
 naval and military trophies, floridly sculptured. The entrance-door is 
 a rich specimen of cast-work: the Hall roof is entirely covered with 
 lead. 
 
 This noble Hall is ill placed, but its sumptuous architecture is best 
 appreciated when seen from the rear of the Post Office. The interior 
 is correspondingly superb : from the vestibule branches right and left 
 a grand staircase, on the balustrade of which are four marble statuettes 
 of the Seasons by Nixon ; in the central niche is a marble bust of 
 William IV. by Chantrey ; and above are portraits of George IV. by 
 Northcote; and George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay. The ascent is to a 
 gallery, with screens of scagliola verde -antique columns, between which 
 are statues of Apollo Belvidere, and Diana and the hart ; from the 
 dome hangs a magnificent chandelier : the eft'ect of the whole is fascinat- 
 ing and scenic, particularly when viewed through the four piles of 
 columns. The banqueting-hall, 80 by 40 feet, and 35 feet high, 
 has a range of Corinthian columns along its sides, which are raised on 
 pedestals and insulated. The five lofty and arched windows are filled 
 with armorial bearings ; and at the north end is a spacious alcove for 
 the display of plate, lighted from above. On the sides is a large mirror, 
 with busts of George III. and IV. by Chantrey. Between the columns 
 are lofty portraits of Queen Adelaide, by M. A. Shee; and William IV. 
 and Queen Victoria, by Hayter. The Court -room has an elaborate 
 stucco ceiling; and here, beneath glass, is preserved a Roman altar, 
 (sculptured with figures of Apollo and a dog, and a lyre,) which was 
 found in digging the foundations of the present Hall. In the Court- 
 room is Janssen's portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton (a Goldsmith), who 
 brought the New River to London : the picture is in the style of 
 Vandyke; Sir Hugh wears a black habit, his hand rests upon a shell, 
 and near him is inscribed " Fontes Fodinae." Next is a portrait (said 
 by Holbein) of Sir Martin Bowes, lord mayor 1545, introducing the cup 
 he bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company: here also hangs a large 
 painting of St. Dunstan (patron of the Goldsmiths), in rich robe, and 
 crozier in hand ; in the background the saint is taking the devil by 
 the nose, the heavenly host appearing above : the marble chimney- 
 piece of this room was brought from Canons, and its two large ter- 
 minal busts are attributed to Roubiliac. The drawing-room (crimson 
 white, and gold,) has immense mirrors, and a ceiling exquisitely wrough 
 with flowers, fruits, birds, quadrupeds, and scroll-work, relieved witl 
 gay coats of arms. The Court dining-room has in the marble chimney 
 
HALLS : GOLDSMITHS' HALL. 353 
 
 )iece two boys holding a wreath, encircling the head of Richard II., 
 >y whom the Goldsmiths' incorporation was confirmed. 
 
 In the Livery tea-room is a conversation-picture by Hudson, (Rey- 
 
 lolds's master,) containing portraits of six lord mayors, all Goldsmiths : 
 
 ir H. Marshall, 1745 ; W. Benn, 1747 ; J. Blachford, 1750 ; R. Allsop, 
 
 52 ; Edmund Ironside and Sir Thomas Rawlinson, both in 1754, the 
 
 rmer having died during his mayoralty. 
 
 The Goldsmiths' Company, anciently the " Gilda Aurifabrorum," 
 as probably of foreign origin, and was fined as Adulterine, by 
 enry II. in 1180: incorporated in 1327, first of Edward III.; the 
 rant being confirmed by Richard II. in 1392. The Company have 
 together fifteen charters. They purchased the site of their present 
 all, with tenements, in 1323 ; their second hall was built by Sir Drew 
 arentyne, goldsmith, and lord mayor in 1398 : it was hung with 
 lemish tapestry, representing the history of St. Dunstan, whose silver- 
 It statue stood on the reredos, or screen : Sir B. Rede, when mayor, 
 ave in this hall a feast, with " a paled park, furnished with fruitfull 
 ees and beasts of venery." The Hall, from 1641 till the Restoration, 
 as the Exchequer of the Parliamentarians, wherein was stored up the 
 oney accumulated by " sequestrations," or forfeitures of the Royalists' 
 (tates, as we read in the newspapers of that day. The Hall was nearly 
 jstroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, after which it was repaired and 
 artly rebuilt; but was taken down in 1829 : the interior was sumptuous. 
 
 Cheapside, Old 'Change, Foster-lane, St. Martin's-le-Grand, and the avenues 
 ear Goldsmiths' Hall, were the oldest localities of the goldsmiths' trade; there 
 ere also Gutter-lane, Seynt Marten's, Maydenyng-lane, Westminster, Southwaik, 
 ush-lane, Lombard-street, Silver- street, and other places. The moneyers, or 
 heremoniers (such as cut out the plates to be stamped), occupied the Old 'Change 
 nd Sermon-lane. The shopkeepers, or sellers of plate, "sat in the High-street 
 'Chepe." The Goldsmiths always strove to prevent foreign workmen from sett- 
 ng in London, the best artists being Italians, from Cavalini, who made the 
 brine of Edward the Confessor, to Torregiano, the maker of the superb brazen 
 lonument of Henry VII. ; and in the fourth year of Edward IV. a trial of skill 
 etween English goldsmiths and foreign ones took place at the Pope's-Head Tavern, 
 prnhill (now Pope's-Head-alley), which was adjudged in favour of our workmen, 
 'arious entries shew the Company to have been both operative goldsmiths and 
 t the same time bankers. 
 
 Among the mayors of the Goldsmiths' Company were, Gregory de Rokesley 
 iix times mayor); Nicholas de Faringdon, appointed mayor in 1308 by Edward II., 
 as long as it pleased him;" Sir John Chace, M.P., and Bartholomew Rede; Sir 
 lartin Bowes, who lent Henry VIII 300/. ; Sir Robert Vyner; Sir John Shorter; 
 ir Francis Child, banker; and Sir Charles Duncombe. 
 
 The Goldsmiths' Pageants were formerly very costly ; they main- 
 ain a splendid barge to this day, and they have a rich pall or hearse- 
 loth. St. Dunstan's image, of silver-gilt, set with gems, once adorned 
 heir Hall; arid they drank his memory from " St. Dunstan's Cup." 
 
 The Company's plate is very magnificent, and comprises a chande- 
 er of chased gold, weighing 1000 ounces ; two superb old plates 
 f gold, having on them the arms of France quartered with those of 
 England, but without those of Hanover ; the cup bequeathed by Sir 
 lartin Bowes, and out of which Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk 
 t her coronation. At the Great Exhibition of 1851, the Company 
 jwarded 1000Z. to the best artists in gold and silver plate ; and, as a 
 iirther commemoration, resolved to add to their treasures 50001. worth 
 R plate of British manufacture. 
 
 The Assay possessed by the Goldsmiths' Company compels every article of 
 janufacture in gold or silver to be marked with the " Hall mark" before it leaves 
 u workman's hands, and authorises the wardens to break whatever article is 
 blow standard. The Assay, anciently "the touch," with the marking or stamp- 
 :g and proving of the coin at " the Trial of the Pix," were privileges conferred 
 
 A A 
 
354 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 on the Goldsmiths' Company before the statute 2Sth Edward I.; and they had ar 
 assay-office more than 500 years ago. " The same Act orders all goldsmiths' wort 
 to be stamped with the leopard's head, that animal, before the adoption of the 
 lion, being the armorial cognisance of England." (Herbert.) " The touch-wardens 
 and assay -master have large steel puncheons and marks of different sizes." Th 
 manner of making the assay is thus : " The assay -master puts a small quantitj 
 of the silver upon trial in the fire ; and then taking it out again, he, with his exac 
 scales, that will turn with the weight of the hundredth part of a grain, computei 
 and reports the goodness or badness of the gold and silver." Touchstone for Gold 
 smiths' Wares. 
 
 The Hall mark shews where manufactured, as the leopard's head for London 
 Duty mark is the head of the sovereign, shewing the duty is paid. Date mark ii 
 a letter of the alphabet, which varies every year : thus, the Goldsmiths' Companj 
 have used, from 1716 to 1755, Roman capital letters ; 1756 to 17/5, small Romai 
 letters; 1776 to 1795, Old English letters; 1796 to 1815, Roman capital letters 
 from A to U, omitting J ; 1816 to 1835, small Roman letters, a to u, omitting j 
 from 1836, Old English letters. The Standard mark for gold is. England, lioi 
 passant ; silver, the figure of Britannia. If under 22 carats, gold has the figure 
 18. The Manufacturer's mark is the initials of the maker. 
 
 The Company are allowed 2 per cent, and the fees for stamping are paid ii 
 to the Inland Revenue Office. 
 
 6. SKINNERS' HALL, Dowgate-hill, rebuilt after the Great Fire ol 
 1666, was refronted by Jupp about 1790 : in the pediment are the Com- 
 pany's arms, and the frieze is ornamented with festoons and leopards 
 heads. The drawing-room is lined with odoriferous cedar, carved anc 
 enriched, and has been restored by George Moore, F.R.S., who has 
 also rebuilt the dining-hall, in Italian style with an enriched ceiling, i 
 recess for the sideboard at the dais end, and opposite an Ionic gallerj 
 for " minstrels." On the walls above the wainscot are panels for fres- 
 coes. Here is the portrait of Sir Andrew Judd, skinner, lord mayor 1551 
 and founder of the Tunbridge School, managed by the Company. 
 
 Among Judd-s bequests was his "croft of pasture, called the Sandhills, 01 
 the backside of Holborn," in the parish of St. Pancras, which probably let lor i 
 few pounds at the time of the testator's decease, but is now covered with houses 
 the ground-rents of which amount to several hundreds a year. At the expiratioi 
 of the present leases in 1S06, the rental of this estate alone will exceed 20,0001 
 a year a vast income for a public school." Britton's Tunbridge Wells, 1S32. 
 
 The Skinners were incorporated in 1327, and purchased temp. Henry III 
 Coped Hall, destroyed in the Great Fire. In the present Hall, the lord mayon 
 sometimes kept their mayoralty; and the new East India Company first met here 
 
 Budge-row, so called of Budge fur, in Watling-street, hard by, was chieflj 
 tenanted by skinners ; and Skinners' Well, Clerk enwell, was so called, says Stow 
 " for the skinners of London held there certain plays yearly, played of Holj 
 Scripture." 
 
 The master and wardens of the Company are elected by a cap ol 
 maintenance fitting the intended new officers (the ceremony being 
 attended by ten Blue-coat boys, the Company's almsmen, and trumpet- 
 ers), and drinking wine out of three large 'silver cups in the form ol 
 cocks or fowls. 
 
 7. MERCHANT-TAILORS' HALL, Threadneedle-street, was built bj 
 Jarman soon after the Great Fire of 16G6. The banquetting-room i. 1 
 the largest of the City Companies' Halls, and has a stately screen am 
 music-gallerv. Upon the walls are shields emblazoned with the Masters 
 arms, and whole- length portraits of King William and Queen Mary, anr 
 other sovereigns. The Hall has, from an early period, been frequentl;, 
 lent to public corporations: the "Sons of the Clergy" anniversar' 
 meeting is held here; a splendid banquet was given here in 1815 ti 
 the Duke of Wellington, when he was invested with the freedom of th j 
 Company. Among the great political feasts held here was the dinne 
 to Sir Robert Peel, May 11, 1835, at which the Duke of Wellington an 
 the Conservative Members of the House of Ccmmons were present. 
 
HALLS: HABERDASHERS' HALL. 355' 
 
 Among the pictures in the hall, court-room, &c., is a head of Henry VIII. hy 
 'aris Bordone; head of Charles I.; three-quarter and full-length of Charles II.; 
 ill-lengths of James II. and Queen Anne; George III. and hjs Queen, by Ramsay; 
 tie late Uuke of York, by Lawrence; Lord Chancellor Eldon, by Briggs; the 
 luke of Wellington, by Wilkie ; Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Here too are portraits 
 F Sir Thomas White, Master of the Company 1561, founder of St. John's College, 
 'xford ; portraits of other lord mayors, Merchant-Tailors ; and a modern picture 
 F Henry VII. presenting his Charter of Incorporation, attended by Archbishop 
 Tarham, Fox Bishop of Winchester, and Willoughby Lord Brooke. 
 
 The Merchant-Tailors, anciently " Taylors and Linen Armourers," arose from 
 guild dedicated to St. John Baptist, originally incorporated by Edward IV. in 
 466, but re-incorporated in 1503 by Henry VII., one of its members. 
 
 Their first hall, in Threadneedle-street, was the mansion of E. Crepin, and 
 vas called the ''New Hal, or Taylers' Inne," to. distinguish it from their old hall 
 n Basing-lane. This Hall was rebuilt, was hung with tapestry of St. John Baptist, 
 ind had on the screen a silver image of St. John in a tabernacle ; the windows 
 vere painted with armorial bearings ; the floor strewed with rushes ; from the ceil- 
 ig hung silk flags and streamers ; and on feast-days the tables on tressels were 
 overed with the richest damask linen and glittering plate. Among the other 
 [all buildings was the Treasury, in the garden, for plate, money, securities, &c. ; 
 le King's Chamber, for the reception of royal personages, who visited the Mer- 
 iant-Tailors ottener than any other Company ; and the Summer banqueting-room, 
 
 the garden. The Company's armoury is first mentioned in 1600, when there 
 ere three state-palls and eighteen banners, besides pavises and pennons. After 
 ic Great Fire, from among the Hall ruins was collected the Company's melted plate 
 200 Ibs. weight of metal), which they sold to begin a fund to rebuild. 
 
356 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Great Fire of 1666. Here are a small statue of Henry VIII. ; a painting 
 of the Wise Men's Offering; and several portraits of benefactors, in. 
 eluding Robert Aske, wbo left tbe Company 30,OOOZ. to build and en 
 dow alms-houses at Hoxton ; also Sir George Whitmore, lord mayor ii 
 1631, who entertained Charles I. and his Queen in his noble mansion am 
 gardens of Baumes, or Balmes, Kingsland-road, Hoxton. 
 
 The Company's Court books extend only to the reign of Charles I. 
 but they possess a small vellum book of ordinances, which has a goo< 
 illumination of St. Katharine, the Haberdashers' patron saint. 
 
 The Haberdashers, or Hurrers of old, date their ordinances from 1372, am 
 were incorporated by Henry VI. in 1447. They were also called Milliners, fror 
 dealin? in merchandise from Milan. They were originally a branch of the mei 
 cers, and Lydtrate places their stalls together in the mercery at Chepe. Her 
 were also haberdashers of hats, as well as of small wares. In the reign of Ed 
 ward VI. there were only twelve milliners' shops in all London, but in 15SO th 
 town became full of them; and this encouragement of foreign manufacture doubl 
 less led to the sumptuary regulations anciently issued to the Companies and Citj 
 
 The site of the present Haberdashers' Hall was bequeathed to th 
 Company in 1478 : the old Hall must have been very spacious, for th 
 Parliament commissioners met in it during the Interregnum. Th 
 charitable devises vested in the Company include alms-houses, hospi 
 tals, and free-schools ; besides legacies to 'poor members and loans t 
 young ones ; gifts to debtors in the City prisons, &c. ; altogether be 
 tween 3000?. and 4000/. yearly. 
 
 9. SALTERS' HALL, St. Swithin's-lane, Cannon-street, the fifth hal 
 of the Salters' Company, was rebuilt by Henry Carr, archited 
 1823-27: it has a handsome Ionic portico, surmounted by the Com 
 pany's arms. The Great Hall has a music-gallery, and is hung wit! 
 banners from the ceiling. Over the doorways are busts of George III 
 and IV., the Duke of York, Nelson, and Wellington. In the Electio: 
 Hall are portraits of Charles I.; Adrian Charpentier, painted by him 
 self, 1760; and William III. on horseback. In the waiting-room i 
 preserved the bill of a feast to 50 Salters in 1506, U 13*. 2kd. 
 
 In the Company's books is a receipt "For to make a moost choyce Paaste < 
 Gamys to be eten at ye Feste of Chrystemasse" (17th Hichard II. A.D. 1394). j 
 pie so made by the Company's cook in 1836 was found excellent. It consisted < 
 a pheasant, hare, and capon : two partridges, two pigeons, and two rabbits ; all bone 
 and put into paste in the shape of a bird, with the livers and hearts, two mutto 
 kidneys, forced-meats, and egg-balls, seasoning, spice, catsup, and pickled musl 
 rooms, filled up with gravy made from the various bones. 
 
 The Salters' (Dry Salters) Company was not regularly incorpo 
 rated till 1558 : a Salter attended the Mayor as chief-butler at the coro 
 nation of Richard III., 1483, and was represented at the coronation o 
 George IV. The original of the Salters' only printed pageant was sol 
 in Bindley's sale, in 1818, for 20 guineas. 
 
 The Salters' first Hall was in Bread-street, next their kindre 
 tradesmen the Fishmongers, in the Old Fish-market, Knight-Rider 
 street. This Hall was rebuilt, the Company's third Hall being th 
 town inn or mansion of the Priors of Tortington, purchased in 1641 
 and afterwards " Oxford-place," from John de Vere, 16th Earl of Ox 
 ford. It adjoined the dwellings of the infamous Empson and Dudlej 
 temp. Henry VII., who met in the garden of Oxford-place, now Salter.' 
 Garden. Tb fourth Hall succeeded the Great Fire of 1666, and had a 
 arcade opening into the garden ; and next to it was Salters'-Hall Meet 
 ing-house, rented of the Company, but taken down in 1821. 
 
 10. IRONMONGERS' HALL, Fenchurch-street, nearly opposite Marl- 
 lane, built by T. Holden, in 1748, has a handsome stone front, of Italia 
 architecture, with Ionic pilasters, and a well-proportioned pedimer 
 
HALLS: VINTNERS' HALL. 357 
 
 in which are sculptured the Company's arms, &c. From the vestibule, 
 divided by Tuscan columns, a large staircase leads to the banqueting- 
 hall; the decorations of which are in Louis Quatorze taste, in Jack- 
 son's papier-mache and carton-pierre imitative oak, aided by old carv- 
 ings, and are economically effective. The Company's pictures consist 
 chiefly of portraits of benefactors, including Mr. Thomas Betton, a 
 Turkey merchant, who, in 1723-24, left 26,OOOZ., half the interest of which 
 was to be expended in ransoming British subjects, captives in Barbary 
 or Turkey. Here, also, is a fine portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount 
 ood, by Gainsborough, presented by his lordship in 1783, when he was 
 mitted to the freedom of the Company, in testimony of his distin- 
 ished naval services. One of the hall windows contains a whole- 
 gth portrait, in painted glass, of Sir Christopher Draper., date 1639. 
 
 The Ironmongers* were first incorporated by Edward IV. in 1464: their first 
 louse," built upon the site of the present hall, had a gate-house, the refec- 
 y strewed with rushes, court-chamber hung with tapestry ; and an armoury 
 ntaining, in 1556, 17 back and breast plates, 17 pair of splints, 12 gorgets, 12 
 ords, and 11 daggers, to which were afterwards added corslets, skull-caps and 
 caps, black bills, morris pikes, white coats with red crosses, 14 sheaves of 
 jws. &c. At the raising of the army of the Earl of Essex in 1642, the 
 mpany lent, " to be returned or paied for," 10 russet armours, 10 pikes, 10 
 ords with belts, 10 head-pieces, 10 musquets with bandelores and rests, and 
 murrions. In 1523, the Company lent Henry VIII. a large sum of money, 
 selling some of their plate and pawning the rest; and Elizabeth compelled 
 i Company to lend her money, which forced the citizens to borrow of her at 7 
 cent on pledges of gold and silver plate, &c. 
 
 In the list of Masters and Wardens is John London, Esq. 1727, who 
 ve name to London-street, nearly opposite Ironmongers' Hall. 
 Wardens are chosen at the end of the Election dinner, when the 
 afers are brought in : 1671, Sept. 21, " I din'd in the city, at the Fra- 
 rnity Feast in Ironmongers' Hall, where the four stewards chose their 
 ccessors for the next yeare, with a solemn procession, garlands about 
 sir heads, and music playing before them ; so coming up to the upper 
 >les where the gentlemen sate, they drank to the new stewards, and 
 we parted." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 The Company's Pageants were very costly and characteristic; one 
 ring Vulcan and his forge, with smiths at work; and an '' Estridge," 
 strich), ridden by an Indian boy, from the common belief that this 
 rd could eat and digest iron; the supporters of the Company's 
 are salamanders, supposed, like iron, to be unhurt by fire. A 
 ast item of 1719 is "for playing on the tongs, 10s. ;" and a meat break - 
 st in 1542 is charged " for the cook, turnspit, and woman, for dressing, 
 5 jd." Funeral feasts were also celebrated in the Hall. 
 
 Among the Company's Charities are the handsome Almshouses in 
 e Kingsland-road, originally founded by the will of Sir Robert 
 effery, lord mayor in 1686. 
 
 11. VINTNERS' HALL, Upper Thames-street, near South wark Bridge, 
 as rebuilt by Wren, after the Great Fire of 1666 ; when were destroyed 
 e first Hall, in a quadrant, given by Sir John Stodie, vintner, and lord 
 layor in 1357 (Stow) ; and the adjoining almshouses devised to the Com- 
 iny by Guy Shuldham, in 1446. The present Hall has been refronted, 
 id is wainscoted and richly carved. In the Court-room are whole- 
 ngth portraits of Charles II., James II. and his queen, George Prince 
 
358 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Denmark ; and a picture, attributed to Vandyke, of St. Mart 
 (tutelar of the Company) dividing his cloak with the beggar. 
 
 The Vintners were incorporated as "Wine-Tun ners by Henry VI. in 1437; E 
 ward III. having granted them, in 1365, a charter for the exclusive importati< 
 of wines from Gascony: the freemen, or " free vintners," of the Company ha 
 the privilege of retailing wine without a license. Stow tells us the Vintners we 
 of old called " Marchants Vintners of Gascoyne," and "great Bourdeous me 
 chants of Gascoyne and French wines;" and temp. Edward III. Gascoyne win 
 were sold in London at 4<Z., and Rhenish at 6d., the gallon. 
 
 The Vintry, which gives name to the Ward, was part of the nor! 
 bank of the Thames, where Vintners' Hall and Queen-street-place ai 
 now built ; it was at the south end of Three Cranes-lane, so called fro 
 the implements with which the merchants "craned their wines out i 
 lighters and other vessels," and landed them : it was so magnificent 
 building, that Henry Picard, vintner and mayor in 1356, entertain* 
 therein the kings of England, Scotland, France, and Cyprus, in 136 
 After the Great Fire, the Vintners' Almshouses were rebuilt in tl 
 Mile-End-road. The Company keep swans on the Thames (see p. 365 
 
 12. CLOTHWORKERS' HALL, on the east side of Mincing-lane, Fei 
 church-street, is of red brick, adorned with brick fluted pilasters. Tl 
 Hall is richly wainscoted, and has life-sized carved figures of James 
 and Charles I. In the windows are painted arms of benefactors, h 
 eluding Samuel Pepys, Master of the Company in 1677, who present* 
 them with a silver election-cup and cover, embossed and partly gill 
 the foot inscribed, " Samuel Pepis, Admiraliti Angliae Secretes < 
 Societ.: Pannif: Lond. Mr. (Master) An. 1677." 
 
 The Clothworkers were originally incorporated by Edward IV. in 1482 i 
 Shermen (Shearers), and were united with the Fullers in 1528 by Henry VIII., tl 
 conjoined fraternity being then named Clothworkers. James I. incorporated hin 
 self into the Clothworkers, "as men dealing with the principal and noblest stap 
 wares of all these islands, woollen cloths." Among their pageants is that of Sir Joli 
 Robinson, lord mayor 1662-63, reviving " the true English and manlike exercii 
 of wrestling, archery, sword, and dagger;" when at his mayoralty feast in Clot! 
 workers' Hall, he entertained the king, queen, and queen-mother, the Duke an 
 Duchess of York. The Hall was in part destroyed by the Great Fire; "bt 
 strange." says Pepys, " it is to see Clothworkers'" Hall on fire these three daj 
 and nights in one body of flame, it having the cellar-; full of oyle." The Gazet 
 of Sept. 8, 1666, announces the Fire to have stopped near Clothworkers' Hal 
 The list of the Company's charities is remarkable for its number of anniversai 
 sermons and lectures, and for its bequests for blind persons. The Company 
 Almshouses (now at Islington) were originally in Whitefriars, on part of a garde 
 belonging to Margaret Countess of Kent, held by her of the prior of that friary. 
 
 Howes relates that James I. being in the open Hall, inquired who was Mastf 
 of the Company ; and the Lord Mayor answering " Syr William Stone," to him tl 
 King said, " Wilt thou make me "free of the Clothworkers?" " Yea," quoth th 
 Master, " and think myself a happy man that I live to see this day." Then tt 
 King said, " Stone, give me thy hand; and now I am a Clothworker." 
 
 pam 
 Dyei 
 
 HALLS OF THE MINOR CITY COMPANIES. 
 
 Of the 69 Minor Companies, nearly half possess Halls. Each Coir j 
 ny has its position in the order of precedence, commencing with trj 
 )yers' and ending with the Carmen; but here the arrangement 
 alphabetical. 
 
 APOTHECARIES' HALL, Water-lane, Blackfriars. (See page 17.) 
 ARMOURERS' AND BRAZIERS' HALL, Coleman-street, is a model 
 building, with a Doric portico, on the site of the Armourers' old H< 
 of the Company, incorporated in 1422 by Henry VI., who also becar. 
 a member. They formerly made coats of mail ; "and made and present 
 a gilt suit of armour to Charles I. when Prince of Wales. In the ba 
 
HALLS: BARBER-SURGEONS' HALL. 359 
 
 Qaeting-hall is Northcote's picture of the Entry of Richard II. and 
 Bolingbroke into London) purchased by the Company from Boydell's 
 Shakspeare Gallery in 1825. The Hall is characteristically decorated 
 with armour. 
 
 BAKERS' HALL, No. 16 Harp-lane, Great Tower-street, is on the 
 site of the ancient mansion of John Chichley, Chamberlain of London, 
 and nephew of Archbishop Chichley. Among the pictures in the 
 wainscoted banqueting- hall is one of St. Clement, patron of the Com- 
 pany, incorporated by Edward II. in 1307. The Hall was last repaired 
 by James Elmes, who wrote the Memoirs of Sir Christopher Wren. 
 
 BARBER-SURGEONS' HALL, Monkwell-street, has its semicircular end 
 supported on a bastion of the City Wall, and was built a few years after 
 the Great Fire of 1666, which destroyed the original Hall: the street 
 entrance has a shell canopy, is enriched with the Company's arms, and 
 festoons of fruit and flowers. The Theatre of Anatomy, built by Inigo 
 Jones, in 1636, escaped the Great Fire, through being detached. 
 
 "The room contained four degrees of cedar seats, one above another, in 
 elliptical form, adorned with figures of the seven Liberal Sciences, the twelve signs 
 of the Zodiac, and a bust of King Charles I. The roof was an elliptical cupola. 
 This, as Walpole calls it, ' one of the best of Jones's works,' was repaired in the 
 reign of George I. by the Earl of Burlington, and was pulled down in the latter 
 end of the last century, and sold for the value of the materials. ' The designe of 
 the Chirurgeons' Theatre," an oval, dated 1636, is preserved in the portfolio of 
 Jones's drawings at Worcester College, Oxford." Life, by P.Cunningham ; printed 
 for the Shakspeare Society. 
 
 Originally, surgery and shaving were carried on in London by the 
 same person. In 1512, an Act was passed to prevent any besides barbers 
 practising surgery within the City and seven miles round, excepting 
 such as were examined by the Bishop of London or Dean of St. Paul's, 
 or their assistants. In 1540 they were united into one corporate body ; 
 but all persons practising shaving were forbidden to intermeddle with 
 surgery, except to draw teeth and let blood; whence Barber-Surgeons. 
 
 The Rev. John Ward, vicar of Stratford-upon-Avon 1662 to 1681, 
 relates that when he came to London, he lodged at the Bell, in Alders- 
 gate-street, "to be near Barber-Chirurgeons' Hail," then the only 
 Slace in the metropolis where anatomical lectures were publicly de- 
 vered. 
 
 In the Court-room, which has an enriched ceiling, is Holbein's celebrated 
 picture of King Henry VIII. presenting the Charter to the Company. This painting 
 is 10 feet 6 inches long and 7 feet high, contains 18 figures, nearly life-size, and 
 represents a room in the palace hung with tapestry. In the centre, on a throne, 
 sits the King, seemingly thrusting the Charter into the hands of Master Thomas 
 Vicay, who receives it kneeling; the King's costume and ornaments are as fine 
 as miniature-painting. Around him are the members of the Court kneeling : Sir 
 John Chambre, in a cap and furred gown ; the famous Dr. Butts, whose conduct 
 in the scene in the play of Henry VIII. of the degradation of Cranmer, while 
 waiting at the door of the council-chamber, is so well drawn by Shakspeare. All 
 the heads are finely executed ; the flowered and embroidered robes, gold chains, 
 jewels, and rings of the chirurgeons, their moustaches and beards, are most care- 
 fully painted. Seven of the figures are livery-men of the Company. Every part 
 of the picture is most elaborately and delicately finished; the colouring is chaste, 
 and the care and style of the whole admirable. Pepys tried, after the Great Fire, 
 to buy this picture, " by the help of Mr. Pierce (a surgeon), for a little money. I 
 did think," he adds, " to give 2001. for it, it being said to be worth 1000 1. ; but it 
 is so spoiled that I have no mind to it, and is not a pleasant though a good pic- 
 ture." Diary, 29th Aug. 1668. 
 
 Next is a whole-length of Sir Charles Scarborough, by Walker, chief physician 
 to Charles II., James II., and William III.: he is lecturing in the doctor's 
 scarlet cap, hood, and gown ; on the left is the demonstrating suigeon, Anthony 
 Bligh, in the livery-gown, holding up the arm of a dead subject, which lies on a 
 table partly covered with a sheet. Next are poi traits of Dr. Arris and Dr Thomas 
 Arris, and Dr. Nehemiah Grew. Here, too, is a curious portrait of Mr. Lisle, 
 
360 CUKIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 barber to Charles II. ; and of John Paterson, clerk to the Company, and the pro- 
 jector of several improvements in the City of London after the Great Fire. 
 Abridged from the Art-Union, 1839. 
 
 Holbein's picture was painted in the 32d of Henry Till., when 
 were united the Barbers and Surgeons, formerly separate companies, 
 which they again became in 1745; the Surgeons then removed to theii 
 Hall in the Old Bailey, and subsequently into a Royal College in 
 Lincoln's -Inn-fields. (See COLLEGES, page 208.) Barbers, how evei-j 
 continued to let blood (whence the pole) and draw teeth until ouj 
 time: the latest we remember of this class, and with pain, was one 
 Middleditch, in Great Suffolk-street, Southwark, in whose window 
 were displayed heaps of drawn teeth. 
 
 Among the Barber-Surgeons' Plate is: 1. A Silver-gilt Cup, given by Henri 
 VIII. in 1540 : it is richly embossed with the rose, fleur-de-lys, and portcullis! 
 and lions' masks, in the style of Holbein; from the bowl hang bells, and inside 
 are the Company's arms. 2. A Silver Cup, with Cover, given in 1678 bjj 
 Charles II. ; the stem and bowl an oak-tree, with four pendent acorns, and the 
 lid the Royal crown ; royal badges, the Company's arms, &c. 3. Two Chaplets, 
 with perforated silver oak-foliage borders, the Company's arms, &c. ; besides a 
 large chased silver Punch-bowl, presented by Queen Anne ; several tankards, &c. 
 
 The Barber-Surgeons are exempt, as formerly, from serving as con- 
 stables or on the nightly watch, on juries, inquests, attaints, or recog- 
 nisances. 
 
 BLACKSMITHS' HALL, Lambeth-hill, Doctors' Commons, is now let 
 as a warehouse ; the Company's business being transacted at Cutlers' 
 Hall. 
 
 BREWERS' HALL, No. 19 Addle-street, "VVood- street, Cheapside, is 
 a modern edifice, and contains among other pictures a portrait of Dame 
 Alice Owen, who narrowly escaped braining by an archer's stray arrow 
 from Islington fields, in gratitude for which she founded a hospital, 
 (See ALMSHOHSES, p. 5.) In the Hall windows is some old painted 
 glass. The Brewers were incorporated in 1438. The quarterage in 
 this Company is paid on the quantity of malt consumed by its member* 
 In 1851, a handsome schoolhouse was built for the Company, in Trinity, 
 square, Tower-hill. 
 
 In 1422, Whittington laid an information before his successor in the Mayoralty, 
 Robert Childe, against the Brewers' Company, for selling dear ale, when they 
 were convicted in the penalty of 201. ; and the Masters were ordered to be kept in 
 prison in the Chamberlain's custody, until they paid it. 
 
 BRICKLAYERS' HALL, behind No. 53 Leadenhall-street, is now let 
 as a Synagogue for Dutch Jews. The Bricklayers and Tilers were 
 incorporated in 1568. 
 
 BUTCHERS' HALL, Pudding-lane, Eastcheap, was rebuilt after afire 
 in 1829, which destroyed the old Hall. The Butchers were fined by 
 Henry II., in 1180, for setting up an unlicensed guild; but they were 
 not incorporated till 1605, by James I. 
 
 CARPENTERS' HALL, on the southern side of London Wall, is one of 
 the few City Halls which escaped the Great Fire of 1666, which sur- 
 rounded it.* The Hall was originally built in 1429 : the walls of old 
 London faced it, and beyond were "Moorfields, Finsbury, and open 
 ground. The exterior possesses no traces of antiquity. The Court- 
 rooms were built in 1664, and the principal staircase and entrance-hall by 
 "W. Jupp about 1780 : the latter is richly decorated with bas-reliefs of 
 carpentry figures and implements, with heads of Vitruvius, Palladio, 
 
 * Carpenters' Hall was also nearly destroyed in a great fire Oct. 6, 1849 
 when the end walls and windows were burned out, and the staircase and rool 
 much damaged ; while the burning building was only separated from Drapers' 
 Hall by the garden and fore-court. 
 
HALLS: COOPERS' HALL. 361 
 
 i Inigo Jones, and "Wren, designed by Bacon ; and the street archway 
 has also a fine bust of Inigo Jones, by Bacon. 
 
 The Great Hall has a rich and beautiful ceiling, put up in 1671, the 
 supporting pillars springing from the corbels of the old arched timber 
 roof. On the western side, surmounted by an embattled oak beam, is 
 a series of four fresco paintings, which were discovered in 1845 by a 
 [workman in repairing the Hall. The subjects are divided by columns 
 painted in distemper: the groundwork is laths, with a thick layer of 
 brown earth and clay held together with straw, and a layer of lime, 
 upon which the paintings are executed. 
 
 The subjects are : 1. Noah receiving the commands from the Almighty for the 
 construction of the Ark: in another portion of the picture are Noah's three sons 
 at work. 2. King Josiah ordering the repair of the Temple. (2 Kings chap, xxii., 
 mentioning carpenters and builders and masons as having no reckoning of 
 money made with them, " because they dealt faithfully.") 3. Joseph at work as 
 a carpenter, the Saviour as a boy gathering the chips ; Mary spinning with the 
 distaff;* the figure of Joseph represents that in Albert Durer's woodcut of the 
 same incident, executed in 1511. 4. Christ teaching in the synagogue: "Is not 
 this the carpenter's son ?" Each painting has a black-letter inscription, more or 
 less perfect. The figures are of the school of Holbein; the costumes are temp. 
 Henry VIII. Above the pictures, in the spandril of the arch, are painted the 
 Company's arms, and "shreeves" and "Robard"ofan inscription remain, inti- 
 mating it to commemorate the benefaction of some sheriffs. The southern wall 
 las some decorative Elizabethan work. The eastern window has carved oak 
 millions and renaissance bases, and has some armorial painted glass, date 1586. 
 rhere are a few carved wooden panels, besides the series of corbels, some of good 
 workmanship. F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A. 
 
 The Carpenters' Company's earliest charter is dated 1477 ; their 
 common seal and grant of arms, 1466 ; but a guild of carpentry is 
 aoticed in 1421-2. The earliest entry in the Company's books is dated 
 1438: they contain many proofs of their power over the trade. Among 
 ;he pictures are portraits of William Portington, master carpenter to 
 ;he Crown temp. Elizabeth and James I.; and John Scott, ordnance 
 jarpenter and carriage-maker temp. Charles II. The Company also 
 >ossess four very curious caps or crowns (the oldest 1561), still used by 
 :he Master and Wardens. Among their plate are three silver-gilt 
 hanaps (1611, 12, 28), which are borne in procession round the Hall on 
 Election-day. Cakes are presented to the members of the Court, on 
 Twelfth Day, and ribbon-money to them on Lord's Mayor's Day. (See 
 in Historical Account of the Company, by E. Basil Jupp, Clerk. 1849.) 
 
 COACHMAKERS' HALL, Noble-street, Foster-lane, was originally 
 juilt for the Scriveners' Company, who, falling into poverty, sold it 
 ;o the Coachmakers, originally incorporated by Charles II. in 1671. 
 
 Coachmakers' Hall was noted at the beginning of the war with revolutionary 
 7 rance as the resort of " a kind of religious Robinhood Society, which met every 
 unday evening for free debate." (BoswelPs Johnson.) But the most memor- 
 ble meeting ever held in the hall was on May 29, 1780, when the whole body of 
 tie Protestant Association, by formal resolution, undertook to attend in St. 
 xeorge's Fields on June 2, " to accompany Lord George Gordon to the House of 
 'ommons, on the delivery of the Protestant petition." The Association, accord- 
 ngly, met; and the result was the memorable " Riots of 1780," and a week's 
 efiance of ail government. The flowers of rhetoric, however, continued long 
 fter to bloom in Coachmakers' Hall : Mr. Britton, iu 1798 (Autobiography, 
 
 89), joined a Debating Society held here. 
 
 COOPERS' HALL, Basinghall-street, is handsomely built, and has a 
 arge wainscoted banqueting-room. The Coopers' Company was in- 
 
362 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 corporated by Henry VII. in 1501 ; and Henry VIII. empowered them 
 to search and gauge beer, ale, and soap vessels in the City and two 
 miles round, at a farthing for each cask. At Coopers' Hall were for- 
 merly drawn State Lotteries ; the drawing of the last Lottery, on 
 October 18, 1826, is described in Hone's Every-day Booh, vol. 2. 
 
 CORDWAIXERS' HALL, Great Distaff-lane, Friday-street, is the third 
 of the same Company's halls on this site, and was built in ITS"' by 
 Sylvanus Hall : the stone front, by Adam, has a sculptured medallion 
 of a country girl spinning with a distaff, emblematic of the name of the 
 lane, and of the thread of cordwainers or shoemakers; in the pediment 
 are their arms. In the hall are portraits of King William and Queen 
 Mary ; and here is a sepulchral urn and tablet, by Nollekens, to John 
 Came, a munificent benefactor to the Company. 
 
 The Cordwainers were originally incorporated by Henry IV. in 1410, as the 
 " Cordwainers and Cobblers," the latter then signifying dealers in shoes and 
 shoemakers. In the reign of Richard II., "every cordwainer that shod any 
 man or woman on the Sunday, to pay thirtie shillings." Among the Company's 
 plate is a piece for which Camden the antiquary left 16/. Their charities include 
 Game's bequests for blind, deaf, and dumb persons, and clergymen's widows, 
 1000*. yearly; and, in 1662, the Bell inn at Edmouton was bequeathed for poor 
 freemen of the Company. 
 
 CUTLERS' HALL is in Cloak-lane, Dowgate-hill. The Cutlers 
 maintained a dispute with the Goldsmiths before Parliament in 1405. 
 They were originally forgers of blades, or bladers, makers of hafts, 
 and "sheath-makers, united as cutlers by Henry VI. in 1425. In the 
 Hall is a portrait of Mrs. Craythorne, who, in 1568, bequeathed the 
 Belle Sauvage Inn, on Ludgate Hill, to the Cutlers, for charitable 
 purposes. (See INNS.) 
 
 CURRIERS' HALL is on the south side of London Wall. The Cur- 
 riers founded a guild in 1367 in the conventual church of Whitefriars, 
 Fleet-street; and they were incorporated by James I. in 1605. In 
 Curriers' Hall preached E. Calamy, jr., the nonconformist, temp. Chas. II, 
 DYERS' HALL, College-street, Upper Thames-street, was built 
 about 1776. The Dyers were incorporated in 1472; its ancient Hall,' 
 in Upper Thames-street (upon the site of Dyers' Hall Wharf), was; 
 destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 The Dyers and Vintners are the only Companies who have the privilege of 
 keeping Swans on the Thames; to catch and take up which, "Swan-voyages," 
 termed Swan-upping, are made in August, when the cygnets are marked, and the 
 marks on the old birds renewed. The marks are cut 
 upon the upper mandib'e, in the presence of the Royal 
 Swanherd. Thus, a is the swan-mark of the Dyers' 
 Company, and ft that of the Vintners'. The two nicks 
 in the latter are probably intended for a demi-lozenge 
 on each side, and the V for a chevron reversed. Be- 
 ' sides being heraldic, that these swan-marks have 
 the initial of the word " Vintner" and form also the 
 Roman numeral V, is supported by one of the regular 
 stand-up toasts of the day being, " The Worshipful 
 Company of Vintners, with Five !" The swans are 
 not so numerous as formerly ; at one period the 
 
 Vintners alone possessed 500 birds : the male Swan-mark. 
 
 ^miners' Comp 
 
 Swan-marl . g called & ^ ^ fema]e & plu (A j 
 Dyers Company. Kemp ^ F _ SA-) The swanhe rds wear swan- 
 feathers in their caps, and the uppings are made by the Companies in their state 
 barges, with much festivity. 
 
 EMBROIDERERS' HALL, Gutter-lane, Cheapside, is a modern struc 
 ture : the Company was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1561. 
 FOUNDERS' HALL, Founders'-court, Lothbury, is now a Dissenters 
 
HALLS: PAINTER-STAINERS' HALL. 363 
 
 I Meeting-house. The Founders' Company was incorporated in 1614, 
 I with the power of searching all brass weights and brass and copper 
 I wares within the City, and three miles round. Founders' Hall has 
 8 also been noted for its political meetings. (See p. 268, note.) 
 
 GIRDLERS' HALL, No. 39 Basinghall- street, was rebuilt after the 
 I Great Fire of 1666, on the site of their ancient hall. The Girdlers' or 
 : Girdle-makers' Company was incorporated by Henry VI. in 1449, and 
 [confirmed by Elizabeth, in 1658, and then united with the Pinners and 
 I Wire- drawers. The gridiron or girdle-iron in their arms is thought to 
 Ibe a rebus on the Company's name. (See Thoms's Stow, p. 107.) The 
 B Company possess a document, dated 1464, by which Edward IV. con- 
 I firmed the privileges granted to them by Richard II. and Edward III., 
 [among which was the following : In the girdles then worn, silver and 
 I copper were used in their fabrication and embroidery, and power was 
 I given to the Company to sieze all girdles found within the City walls 
 I with spurious metals. At the annual Election, the Clerk of the Com- 
 jpanv crowns the Master with a crown embroidered in gold on silk 
 I with the Girdlers' devices ; and the Masters with three ancient caps ; 
 I whereupon they pledge their subjects in a loving-cup of Rhenish 
 I wine a picturesque ancient ceremonial. 
 
 INNHOLDERS' HALL, College-street, Upper Thames-street, was 
 I built after the Great Fire of 1666: the Company incorporated 1515. 
 
 JOINERS' HALL, Joiners '-Hall-buildings, between Nos. 79 and 80, 
 I Upper Thames-street, has a carved screen and entrance-doorway : and 
 I the piers are surmounted with the Company's crest, a demi-savage, life- 
 Isize, wreathed about the head and waist with oak-leaves. The Joiners 
 I were incorporated 1567. 
 
 LEATHER-SELLERS' HALL, St. Helen's-place, Bishopsgate-street, was 
 rebuilt about 1815, upon the site of the Company's old Hall, a portion 
 of the hall of St. Helen's Priory, taken down in 1799: it was wains- 
 coted, had a curiously carved Elizabethan screen, and an enriched 
 ceiling with pendants. Beneath the present Hall is the priory crypt. 
 (See page 242.) In the Hall yard is a pump sculptured by Caius 
 | Gabriel Gibber in 1679, in payment to the Company of his livery fine 
 of 25Z. : the design, a mermaid pressing her breasts, is very charac- 
 teristic. The crypt, kitchen, and pump, are engraved by J. T. Smith. 
 The Leathersellers were incorporated by Richard II. in 1442 ; and by 
 a grant from Henry VII., the Wardens were empowered to inspect 
 sheep, lamb, and calf leather throughout the kingdom. 
 
 MASONS' HALL is in Masons'-alley, between Basinghall-street and 
 Coleman-street. The Masons, with whom are united the Marblers, 
 were incorporated about 1410 as "the Free Masons," and received 
 their arms in 1474 ; but were not incorporated as Masons until 1677. 
 
 PAINTER-STAINERS' HALL, Little Trinity-lane, Upper Thames- 
 street, occupies the site of the old Hall, destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 1666. The livery hall has a richly painted ceiling. The Painter- 
 stainers' Company was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1582, but 
 existed long before as a guild. Among their minutes are orders to 
 compel foreign painters resident in London to pay fines for practising 
 their art without being free of the Painter-stainers' Company. Inigo 
 Jones and Vandyck were asked together to their dinners, as appears by 
 an entry in the Company's books. (Life, by P. Cunningham : Shaks- 
 peare Society.) Camden, whose father was a Painter-stainer in the 
 Old Bailey, bequeathed the Company I6L to buy a silver cup, to be 
 inscribed : " Gul. Camdenus, Clarencieux, filius Sampsonis, Pictoris 
 Londinensis, dono dedit;" which cup is used at every Election -feast on 
 
364 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 St. Luke's day. Charles Catton, one of the foundation members of 
 the Royal Academy, was master of the Painter-stainers' Company in 
 1784: he was known for his heraldic painting, more especially for his 
 emblazonment of the lord mayor's state-coach. 
 
 Amongst the Company's pictures are St. Luke writing his gospel, by Van 
 Somer; Reason governing: Strength, C. Catton, R.A.; Landscape by Lambert, 
 with figures by Hogarth ; Queen Anne (medallion), by Feilot ; the Fire of London, 
 by Waggoner; Charles I. copied from Vandyke by Stone; Charles II. and his 
 Queen, by Huysman ; Queen Anne, by Dahl ; William III. by Kneller, presented 
 by him; Camden, in his tabard, as Clarencieux. The Painter-stainers' Company 
 assist diseased and paralysed painters in going to Bath to drink the waters. 
 
 PARISH CLERKS' HALL, No. 83 Wood-street, Cheapside, is the third 
 hall of the Company, first incorporated in 1233, as the Fraternity of 
 St. Nicholas ; re-incorporated by James I. in 1611 ; and confirmed by 
 Charles I. in 1636. The Hall contains a few portraits, and in a painted 
 glass-window, David playing on the Harp, St. Cecilia at the Organ, 
 &c. The first hall stood in Bishopsgate-street ; the second in Broad- 
 lane, Vintry Ward. The Parish Clerks were the actors in the old 
 Miracle Plays, the parish clerks of our churches dating only from the 
 commencement of the Reformation. (See CLERKENWELL, p. 186.) 
 
 The " Bills of Mortality" were commenced by the Parish Clerks' 
 Company in 1592, who about 1625 were licensed by the Star Chamber 
 to keep a printing-press in their Hall for printing the Bills, valuable 
 for their warnings of the existence or progress of the Plague. The 
 " Weekly Bill " of the Parish Clerks has, however, been superseded by 
 the " Table of Mortality iu the Metropolis " issued weekly from the 
 Registrar-General's Office at Somerset House since July 1, 1837. 
 
 The Parish Clerks' Company neither confer the freedom of the City 
 nor the hereditary freedom. 
 
 PEWTERERS' HALL, No. 17 Lime-street, contains a portrait of Sir 
 William Smallwood, Master of the Company in the second year of 
 Henry VII., and who gave them their Hall, &c. The Pewterefs were 
 incorporated in 1474 : they assay pewter- ware, and use a mark, or 
 touch, registered on a pewter plate. The Hall was formerly let for 
 lectures ; and here Macklin the actor commenced his " school of 
 oratory and criticism," lecturing in full-dress, but to be laughed at by 
 Foute and other wits of the day. 
 
 PINMAKERS' HALL, Pinners'-court, Old Broad-street, is on part of 
 the Priory of St. Augustine, or Austin Friars. The Hall has been, 
 since the reign of Charles II., let as a Dissenters' meeting-house, and 
 is now so occupied. The Pinmakers' Company was incorporated by 
 Charles I. in 1636. 
 
 The Corporation Commission (2d Report) states that no returns to the Pin- 
 makers' Company appear in the Chamberlain's books within the last forty years : 
 " it is supposed that one or two individuals belonging to the Company are yet 
 living." 
 
 PLASTERERS' HALL, Addle-street, Wood-street, Cheapside, was 
 built after the Great Fire of 1666 : here are some rich ceilings. The 
 Company was first incorporated by Henry VIII. in 1501. 
 
 PLUMBERS' HALL, Great Bush-lane, Cannon-street, is a modern 
 brick building : the Company was incorporated by James I. in 1611. 
 
 PORTERS' HALL is on St. Mary's-hill, Billingsgate. The Fellow- 
 ship was incorporated in 1646, and consists of tackle and ticket porters; 
 with the City arms for their armorial badge, and the alderman of Bil- 
 lingsgate ward for their governor. They claim the exclusive privi- 
 lege, under the appointment and control of the Common Council, of 
 unloading all vessels that come to the port of London laden with corn, 
 
HALLS: STATIONERS' HALL. 365 
 
 malt, seeds, potatoes, fruit, salt, fish, &c., at a fixed rate of prices ; 
 vhich, being high in comparison with the rates in the Docks and at 
 he various outports of the kingdom, were greatly reduced in 1852, to 
 neet the Free-trade exigencies. 
 
 The Ticket-porter of our times, " Toby Veck, who waited for jobs outside the 
 hurch-door, with wind, and frost, and snow, and a good storm of hail, his red- 
 etter days, and was called Trotty from his pace, which meant speed if it didn't 
 make it" is the best character in Charles Dickens's Christmas story, The Chimes. 
 
 SADDLERS' HALL, No. 143 Cheapside, is denoted by the Company's 
 arms ; azure, a chevron between three saddles, or crest, a horse bridled 
 and saddled ; supporters, two horses bridled. The Great Hall is hand- 
 ome, and the Company wealthy : the fraternity are mentioned temp. 
 lichard I., and were incorporated by Edward I. They preserve a 
 umptuous crimson velvet and gold funeral pall, a curious specimen of 
 tliddle-Age embroidery. In the Hall is a whole-length portrait of 
 Frederick Prince of Wales (father of George III.), who became Master 
 >f the Company from having accepted an invitation to witness the 
 r jord Mayor's Show from their stand. 
 
 Sir Richard Blackmore, schoolmaster, physician, and small poet, " the Cheap- 
 ide Knight" and "the City Bard," and the general butt of the wits of his day, 
 robably wrote some peoms recited at Saddlers' Hall; whence Sir Samuel Garth 
 iddressed these lines " To the merry Poetaster at Saddlers' Hall, in Cheapside." 
 
 " Unwieldy Pedant, let thy awkward Muse 
 With Censures praise, with Flatteries abuse. 
 To lash, and not be felt, in Thee's an Art; 
 Thou ne'er mad'st any but thy School-boys smart. 
 Then be advis'd, and scribble not agen ; 
 Thou'rt fashion'd for a Flail, and not a Pen. 
 
 If B 1's immortal Wit thou would'st descry, 
 
 Pretend 'tis he that writ thy Poetry. 
 Thy feeble Satire ne'er cau do him wrong; 
 Thy Poems and thy Patients live not long." 
 
 ' To Sir R Bl , on the two Wooden Horses before Saddlers' Hall: 
 
 'Twas kindly done of the good-natured Cits, 
 
 To place before thy door a brace of tits." Tom Brown. 
 
 STATIONERS' HALL, Stationers' Hall-court, Ludgate-street, occu- 
 pies the site of Burgaveny House, whither the Stationers' Company 
 emoved in 1611 : it was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ;* after 
 ivhich the present Hall was erected ; the eastern front was cased 
 flrith stone about the year 1800. The Court-room has some fine carv- 
 ngs, attributed to Gibbons ; and at the extremity is West's touching 
 ncture of King Alfred dividing a loaf with St. Cuthbert the pilgrim, 
 resented by Alderman Boydell, Master of the Company ; and of whom 
 ere is a portrait as lord mayor, with allegorical absurdities, by Gra- 
 am. In the Stock-room and Hall are excellent portraits of Prior and 
 steele, presented by John Nichols ; of Samuel Richardson, the novelist, 
 nd his wife, by Highmore (Richardson was Master of the Company in 
 754) ; of Vincent Wing, the astrologer, who died in 1668, although a 
 heet almanac with his name is still published by the Stationers' 
 Company ; of John Bunyan, presented by Mr. Hobbs, the singer ; a 
 half-length of Bishop Hoadley ; Robert Nelson, by Kneller ; Andrew 
 Htrahan and his father, William Strahan ; and a bust of William Bow- 
 er, u last of the learned printers," with a grateful inscription written 
 y himself. The Hall has also a large window filled with painted ar- 
 
 Han sard's Typographia contains a view of Bergavenny House as altered 
 ir the Hall of the Stationers, printed from the original block engraved for the 
 
366 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 morial glass. Here was held the Music Feast on St. Cecilia's day, for 
 which Dryden wrote his celebrated ode, last performed here in 170:3. In 
 the Hall, on Almanac-day, November 22, at three o'clock, are published 
 the almanacs printed for the Company. 
 
 The Stationers were formed into a guild in 1403. and their first Hall was in 
 Milk-street. They were first incorporated May 4, 1557 (3d and 4th Philip and 
 Mary); this charter was renewed by Elizabeth in 15S8; amplified by Charles 
 II. 1634 ; and confirmed by William and Mary, 1690, which is the existing charter 
 of the Company. These charters gave them inquisitorial privileges of searcli and 
 seizure of obnoxious books; printers were compelled to serve their time to a 
 member of the company; and every publication was required to be " Entered at 
 Stationers' Hall." The first entry on the books is 1558: " To William Pekerynge, 
 a ballett, called A Ryse and Wake, 4d." 1603, Oct. 29, the Company obtained a 
 patent from James I. for the sole printing of Primers, Psalms, Almanacks, &c., 
 employing Lilly, Partridge, and Moore; Partridge's astrological almanack it 
 humorously ridiculed by Swift. "Lilly's hieroglyphics were stolen from oil 
 monkish manuscripts ; Moore has stolen them from him." (Aubrey) 
 
 The funeral feast of Thomas Sutton, of the Charter-house, was given May 28, 
 1612, in Stationers' Hall; the procession having started from Dr. Law's, in Pater- 
 noster-row. For this repast were provided 32 neats' tongues, 40 stone of bee 
 24 marrow-bones, 1 lamb, 46 capons, 32 geese, 4 pheasants, 12 pheasants' pullets, 
 12 godwits, 24 rabbits, 6 hearnshaws, 43 turkey-chickens, 48 roast chickens, 18 
 house-pigeons, 72 field-pigeons, 36 quails, 48 ducklings, 160 eggs, 3 salmons, 4 
 congers, 10 turbots, 2 dories, 24 lobsters, 4 mullets, a firkin and keg of sturgeon, 
 3 barrels of pickled oysters, 6 gammons of bacon, 4 Westphalia gammons, 16 fried 
 tongues, 16 chicken-pies, 16 pasties, 16 made dishes of rice, 16 neats'-tongue 
 pies, 16 custards, 16. dishes of bait, 16 mince-pies, 16 orange-pies, 16 forst back- 
 meats, 16 gooseberry-tarts, 8 redcare-pies, 6 dishes of whitebait, and 6 grand 
 salads. Malcolm. 
 
 In 1712, Thomas Parkhurst, master of the Company in 1683, left 37/. to pur- 
 chase annually Bibles with Psalms, to be given to the poor : hence the present 
 custom of giving Bibles to apprentices bound at Stationers' Hall. 
 
 The Company's astrological and other predictions in their almanacs 
 have continued, though modified, to our times ; one year they experi- 
 mentally omitted from Moore's Almanac the column on the moon's 
 influence on the parts of the human body, when most of the copies j 
 were returned upon their hands. (Baily, on the Nautical Almanac.), 
 The Company retains its original character intact, being restricted toi 
 members of the bookselling, stationery, printing, bookbinding, print-j 
 selling, or engraving trades. The invested capital is upwards of 40,00^1 
 divided into shares ; but their only publications are almanacs and a , 
 Latin Gradus. The original entry of published books has been dis-j 
 pensed with ; but, under the Copyright Act, the proprietor of everyj 
 published work must register the same, as well as all assignments, inj 
 the books of the Stationers' Company, to substantiate his claim at law rj 
 the registry fee is 5*. 
 
 The Company's charities consist chiefly of pensions ; and foremost 
 among the benefactors are the respected names of Guy, Bowyer, Boy-j 
 dell, and Strahan. The Hall plate includes several presentation cups I 
 The Company are distinguished in civic pageants ; and they posses:' 
 a superbly gilt barge, in which, on the morning of Lord Mayor's Dayj 
 they visit Lambeth Palace, when the household of the Archbishop o:j 
 Canterbury bring on board the barge hot spiced ale, buns and cakesJ 
 and wine; *the latter is served to the Stationers in small wooden bowls' 
 or sack-cups, provided by the Company, who, at a certain period of th j 
 year, present to the Archbishop of Canterbury copies of their several 
 almanacs. In the list of masters is Sir John Key, Bart., lord majol 
 two successive years, 1831 and 1832. 
 
 TALLOW-CHANDLERS' HALL, Do \vgate-hill, is built in the style ( 
 Wren, with a colonnade of Tuscan arches. The Company was iucoi 
 porated by Edward IV. in 1460. 
 
HALLS: WEAVERS' HALL. 367 
 
 WATERMEN'S HALL, St. Mary-at-Hill, Billingsgate, was built in 
 780. The Company's old Hall in Cold-harbour faced the Thames. 
 
 The fares of the Thames watermen and wherrymen were regulated by Henry 
 ylll. in 1514. Taylor the Water-poet, temp. Elizabeth, states the Watermen 
 between Windsor and Gravesend at 40,000. They were made a Company by 
 Philip and Mary in 1555, with eight overseers and rulers, " the most wise, discreet, 
 md best sort of watermen," selected by the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen, 
 this statute regulates the dimensions of the boats and wherries, then dangerously 
 ' shallow and tickle;" the Lord Mayor and Alderman to limit the watermen's 
 ares, to be confirmed by the Privy Council. Sirype was told by one of the Com- 
 kany that there were 40,000 watermen upon their rolls; that they could furnish 
 0,000 men for the fleet; and 8000 men were then in the service. Taylor the 
 Water-poet, with his fellow-watermen, violently opposed the introduction of coaches 
 s trade-spiliers. The Company condemned the building of Westminster and 
 Blackfriars Bridges, for their injury to the ferries between Vauxhall and the 
 temple, the profits of which were given to the poor, aged, decayed, and maimed 
 k-aternien and their widows ; and in both cases the Company were compensated 
 pr their losses. The substitution of steam-boats for wherries has, however, 
 been as fatal to the watermen as railways to stage- coachmen. 
 
 WAX-CHANDLERS' HALL, No. 13 Gresham-street West, nearly op- 
 posite Haberdashers' Hall, was taken down in 1852, to be rebuilt. The 
 jYax- Chandlers' Company was incorporated by Richard III. in 1483. 
 the chandler of old set his mark to the several articles which he made ; 
 ent out wax-tapers for hire ; and in Roman Catholic times wax was 
 fought to the chandlers, to be made into " torches, torchettes, prykettes 
 |r perchers, chaundelle or tapers for women ayenst Candelmas." 
 
 "WEAVERS' HALL is in Basinghall-street. The Weavers' Company, 
 briginall) cloth and tapestry weavers, was the first incorporated of 
 he livery companies, and in the reign of Henry I. paid 161. a year to 
 he Crown for their immunities. Their privileges were confirmed to 
 [hem at Winchester by Henry II. in 1184, the charter being sealed by 
 Ehomas a Becket. 
 
 I The great Curiosity of Weavers or Stocking-weavers' Hall is its old picture, in 
 |/hich William Lee or Lea is pointing out his stocking-loom to a female knitter ; 
 leneath which is this inscription : " In the year 1589, the ingenious William Lee, 
 Master of Arts of St. John's College, Cambridge, devised this profitable art for 
 lockings (but being despised, went to France,) yet of iron to himself, but to us 
 |nd others of gold: in memory of whom this is here painted." By some the 
 icture is thought to have suggested the story of Lee's having invented the 
 achine to expedite knitting, and thus allow the girl, of whom he was ena- 
 oured, more time to listen to his love-making, or the picture may be an illus- 
 ratinn of the story. Aaron Hill gives the invention to a poor student of Oxford, 
 3 supersede his wife's knitting for their family's support; but Hill wrote this in 
 715 upon hearsay ; and Lee is named as the inventor in a petition of the Frame- 
 'ork-knitters, or Stocking-makers, to Cromwell for a charter, subsequently 
 ranted by Charles II. in 16G3. Hill's version has, however, been adopted by 
 ilmore in his very clever picture of "the Invention of the Stocking-loom," 
 ainted in 1847. 
 
 The existing Companies are so many trusteeships for " charitable 
 mrposes" and "chartered festivals;" and their earliest object was 
 he formation of a common stock for the relief of poor or decayed 
 nembers. Stow devotes some twenty-five folio pages of his Survey to 
 harities for this purpose, and which he characterises as " the Honour 
 f Citizens and Worthiness of Men." These charities comprise pen- 
 ons to decayed members, almshouses, gifts of money to the poor; 
 unds for the support of hospitals, schools, exhibitions at the universi- 
 ies, prisoners in the City gaols; for lectures and sermons, and do- 
 ations to distressed clergymen ; loans to young beginners in busi- 
 ess, &c. 
 
368 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Of the 89 Companies, 8 are practically extinct ; and a ninth, the 
 Parish Clerks, has no connexion with the municipality of London. The 
 others are divided by the Parliamentary Commissioners into three classes : 
 1. Companies still controlling their trade, namely, the Goldsmiths and 
 the Apothecaries : both these also belong to class 2. 2. Companies 
 exercising: the right of search, or making wares &c., including the 
 Stationers,' at whose Hall all copyright books must be "entered ; : ' the 
 Gun-makers, who prove all the guns made in the City ; the Founders, 
 who test and mark weights ; the Saddlers, who examine the workman- 
 ship of saddles ; the Painters, who issue a trade price-list of some 
 authority; and the Pewterers and Plumbers, who make assays. 3. 
 Companies into which persons carrying on certain occupations in the 
 City are compelled to enter : such are the Apothecaries, Brewers, 
 Pewterers, Builders, Barbers, Bakers, Saddlers, Painter - stainers, 
 Plumbers, Innholders, Founders,* Poulterers, Cooks,f Weavers, Scri- 
 veners, Farriers, Spectacle-makers, Clockmakers,J Silk-throwers, 
 Distillers, Tobacco-pipe-makers, and Carmen ; the last mentioned 
 exclusively consisting of persons belonging to the trade. Admission to 
 the body of freemen is obtained by birth, apprenticeship, purchase, or 
 gift ; and thence into the livery by fees. 
 
 The Needlemakers' is the only City Company not incorporated by a crowned 
 head, they having received their Charter from Cromwell in 1656. They hare 
 no Hall, but these characteristic arms : vert, three needles in fess argent, each 
 ducally crowned or: crest, a Moor's head, couped at the shoulders in profile 
 proper, wreathed about the temples argent, and in his ear a pearl (the crest 
 originally was an apple-tree and serpent); supporters, a man and woman (termed 
 Adam and Eve), wreathed round the waist with leaves, all proper, in the woman's 
 dexter hand a needle argent ; motto, ' they sewed fig-leaves together and made 
 themselves aprons." Stow tells us that needles were sold in Cneapside in the 
 reign of Queen Mary, and were then made by a Spanish negro, by a secret art ; 
 they are also said to have been made in London by a native of India, in 1545; 
 and by one Elias Krause, a German, in 1566. Needles were first made, or rather 
 finished, in Whitechapel, by one Mackenzie; hence the cry of " Whitechapel 
 needles, twenty-five for a penny." The trade then removed to the borders of 
 Warwickshire and Worcestershire; but Whitechapel labels are still used, and 
 the fame of " Whitechapel sharps" has reached the interior of Africa. 
 
 The arms of the several Companies (some very curious) are correctly 
 given in Moule's English Counties : Middlesex. Their records are an- 
 cient ; for the Great Companies' title deeds mostly extend to the 13th 
 century. 
 
 HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 BLACKWELL HALL, or Bakewell Hall, Basinghall-street, adjoined: 
 the south side of Guildhall chapel, was founded by the opulent family .< 
 of the Basings, and was hence called Basing's Haugh, or Hall, giving | 
 
 * The Fruiterers' Company have no Hall: they present the lord mayor yearly 
 with twelve bushels of early apples, and are entertained by him. 
 
 t The Cooks' Company have no Hall. By their charter of Charles II. they 
 claim to serve the sovereign on all civic occasions, as well as exemption from 
 serving on juries. They also claim the right of selling beer without a license; ' 
 but the Court of Excise have decided against this privilege by the Act of Parlia- ; 
 ment which exempts only members of the Vintners' Company from the wine j 
 license. The Cooks' Company, are, however, exempted from serving on juries in I 
 the City courts. 
 
 J The Clockmakers' Company have a lending library, rich in treatises on 
 horology and the allied sciences ; besides a cabinet of specimen watches, &c. j 
 The Company have no hall, but an office, 6 Cowper's-court, Cornhill ; whence the j 
 Master- Wardens, and Court of Assistants, May 10. 1852, memorialised Her .' 
 Majesty's Commissioners of Works and Buildings against the order given direct 
 to Mr. Dent to make the sreat Clock for the Xew Palace at Westminster, instead ; 
 of submitting it, as originally intended, to competition. 
 
HALLS: HALL OF COMMERCE. 369 
 
 lame to the surrounding ward, corrupted to Bassishaw. In the 36th of 
 Edward III., Basing's Hall was the dwelling of Thomas Bakewell ; in 
 .he next reign (20th Richard II.), it was purchased by the City, and 
 nade a storehouse or market-place for all woollen cloth brought into 
 London, and which was not to be sold elsewhere, under pain of for- 
 feiture, until it had been first lodged at Bakewell Hall ; part of the 
 oils or hallage was given by Edward VI. to Christ's Hospital, whose 
 governors managed the warehouses. Bakewell Hall was rebuilt in 
 588, burnt in the Great Fire of 1666, and re-erected about 1672; but 
 |inally removed in 1820, for the site of the Bankruptcy Court. 
 BRIDEWELL HALL (see BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL, page 53). 
 CHARTER-HOUSE HALL (see CHARTER-HOUSE, page 72). 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL HALL (see CHELSEA HOSPITAL, page 77) is an 
 sact parallelogram, 110 feet by 30 feet. Here are double rows of 
 ibles, covered with cloths, as if for dinner ; but the Pensioners have 
 ot dined here for more than sixty years, though their messes are served 
 ; the buttery-hatch. Upon the gallery-front is an exquisitely carved 
 lield of the royal arms (Charles II.). 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL HALL (see CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, page 80). 
 COMMERCIAL HALL, Mincing-lane, for the public sale of Colonial 
 roduce, was built in 1811, from the designs of Joseph Woods, F.S.A., 
 nthor of Letters from an Architect : it consists of a lofty rusticated 
 asement, and an Ionic upper story, ornamented with characteristic 
 assi-relievi by J. G. Bubb. 
 CROSBY HALL (see page 139). 
 
 EGYPTIAN HALL, Piccadilly (see page 266 ; also MANSION HOUSE). 
 EXETER HALL (see page 287). 
 
 FLAXMAN HALL, University College, Gower-street, is the central 
 jartment under the cupola, designed by Professors Cockerell and 
 Donaldson, for the reception of Flaxman's models, presented by his 
 ster-in-law and adopted daughter, Miss Maria Denman. The collec- 
 ron consists of about 140 casts in plaster from the original models, 
 tatues and groups of figures, and reliefs, some retouched by the great 
 culptor. Immediately beneath the lantern is the group of Michael and 
 atan ; and around and above are his monumental and other relievi, 
 Irranged in compartments. In a niche in the vestibule is the large 
 roup of Hercules and Omphale ; and in adjoining rooms are the Pas- 
 oral Apollo, the Shield of Achilles, small models of Raphael and Mi- 
 uel Angelo, and other of Flaxman's works ; and on a landing is a 
 ne statue of the sculptor by M. L. Watson. (See UNIVERSITY COL- 
 EGE, page 215.) 
 
 FREEMASONS' HALL (see page 314). 
 GERARD'S HALL (see CRYPTS, p. 241). 
 GRESHAM HALL (see GRESHAM COLLEGE, page 209). 
 HALL OF COMMERCE, Threadneedle-street, was designed and built 
 1840-43 by Mr. Moxhay, formerly a biscuit-baker in the same street: 
 occupies the site of the French Protestant Church, in clearing away 
 hich a fine Roman tesselated pavement was discovered, and is now in 
 .ie British Museum. 
 
370 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDOX. 
 
 Sciences ; Enterprise guided by Genius, and awaiting their arrival is a group of 
 aborigines. The sculptor died young, in 1847. 
 
 The building was opened as a mercantile club-house, but did not 
 succeed, and is now let as offices. In the vestibule is a statue of 
 Whittington ; and right and left are two superb halls, with Corinthian 
 columns and pilasters, picturesque friezes, and elegantly coved ceilings. 
 The larger hall is 130 feet long, 44 feet wide, and 50 feet high : here, 
 March 1, 1851, was given the dinner to Mr. Macready on his retire- 
 ment from the stage ; upwards of 500 guests. The Hall of Commerce, 
 after Mr. Moxhay's death in 1849, was sold for 44,900*.; the site alone 
 is stated to have cost him 35,OOOZ. 
 
 HICKSES'S or HICKS'S HALL, in the middle of the roadway of St. 
 John-street, Clerkenwell, opposite the Windmill Inn (as denoted by an 
 inscription at the corner of St. John's-lane), was built by Sir Baptist 
 Hickes in 1612, as a Shire -hall, or Sessions- house, for Middlesex ; until 
 which, the justices met at the Castle Inn, near Smithfield Bars. The 
 old Hall was taken down after the erection of the New Sessions-house 
 on Clerkenwell Green, which, however, was long after called " Hicks' s 
 Hall." (See CLERKENWELL, page 177.) The exterior is decorated 
 with the county arms, and medallions of Justice and Mercy ; the court 
 is in the form of D; and here is a James I. chimney-piece from the old 
 Hall ; and a fine portrait of Sir Baptist Hickes. 
 
 HUDSON'S BAT COMPANY'S HALL, Fenchurch-street, is a handsome 
 edifice, with an interesting collection of Curiosities from the countries 
 to which the Company trade, by barter and otherwise, for rich furs, 
 skins, &c., sold here in spring and autumn. They were incorporated by 
 Charles II. in 1G70. Their hunting-ground extends from Hudson's Bay 
 to the Pacific, and from the United States' frontier to the Arctic Sea. 
 In the Hall is a vast pair of horns of the Moose Deer, weighing 56 Ibs.; 
 and in another room, the picture of an Elk, the European Moose, killed 
 in the presence of Charles XI. of Sweden : it weighed 12291bs. 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE HALL (see LAMBETH PALACE). 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S HALL, Long Acre, was built by R. Westmacott for 
 Mr. Hullah's singing-classes. The style is Elizabethan, with iron 
 arched and panelled roof of immense span : the Hall will accommodate 
 3000 persons, and was opened Feb. 11, 1850. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S TOWN-HALL, Bethnal Green, was built in 1852, 
 for holding vestry-meetings, instead of in the parish church. This Hall 
 is of Old English design, and has a handsome Caen- stone front, a com- 
 mittee-room, spacious bay-windowed board-room, decorated entrance- 
 porch, and surveyor's residence adjoining. In the same year was com- 
 pleted a Vestry-Hall in High-street, Kensington ; in the old English 
 style, with gables, crested roof, and central clock-turret with cupola: 
 besides a Vestry-Hall in Lambeth, in the Roman style. 
 
 ROTAL Music HALL, Adelaide-street, Strand, was formerly the 
 Adelaide Gallery (see page 18). The Apollonicon (see page 16) was 
 removed here in 1851 : and the Hall was next fitted up as a theatre for 
 the performances of Marionettes, or Puppets. 
 
 SOUTH WARK TOWN-HALL, St. Margaret's-hill, was built in 1793, 
 in place of a Hall erected in 1686 upon the site of St. Margaret's 
 Church, which, after the union of that parish with St. Saviour's, was 
 used as a prison and court of justice, until destroyed in the fire of 1676. 
 Here the City authorities hold courts, and the oldest alderman sits as 
 justice of the peace ; the borough of Southwark being under his almost 
 nominal jurisdiction, as the ward of Bridge Without : the elections for 
 members of parliament are also held opposite the Hall. 
 
HAYMARKET. 371 
 
 Under a pediment, in front of the former Hall, was a statue of Charles II., 
 which, in 1793, was removed to the roof of a watch-house in Three-Crown-court, 
 High-street. A figure of Justice, which, with one of Wisdom, had formerly sup- 
 ported the lord mayor's seat in the hall, was also then placed near the bar of a 
 neighbouring coffee-house; and hence this jeu d' esprit, which may possibly ex- 
 plain why watchmen were called " Charleys:" 
 
 " Justice and Charles have left the Hill, 
 
 The City claimed their place; 
 Justice resides at Dick West's still, 
 
 But mark poor Charles's case : 
 Justice, safe from wind and weather, 
 
 Keeps the tavern score ; 
 But Charley, turned out altogether, 
 
 Keeps the watch-house door." 
 
 UNION HALL, Union-street, Southwark, was built by subscription, 
 upon the site of the Greyhound inn, in 1781, for the use'of the justices 
 of the peace, before which they sat at the Swan inn. They attended at 
 Union Hall daily till the passing of the Police Act in 1793, when it was 
 made one of the offices ; the business was next removed to a new office 
 at Stones' End ; Union Hall was then let as warehouses, destroyed by fire 
 Dec. 6, 1851. 
 
 UNIVERSITY HALL, Gordon-square, St. Pancras (see page 215). 
 
 WESLEYAN CENTENARY HALL and MISSION HOUSE, Bishopsgate- 
 , street, faces Threadneedle-street. The Centenary Hall was formerly 
 the City of London Tavern. The great hall for Wesleyan meetings will 
 hold 1200 persons. In the rear is the Mission House, built in 1842 : here 
 is the picture by Parker of the rescue of John Wesley from the flames, 
 when a boy. The arrangement of the warehouses, for books, clothes, 
 implements, and other outfittings of the missionaries, illustrates the 
 extent of the Society's transactions geographically : here Ashantee, there 
 Tonga ; there Gaffraria, Gambia, &c. 
 
 An interesting Sale of Thank-offerings from the Friendly and Fejee Islands 
 to the Wesleyan Missionary Society was held in their Hall, June 19 and 20, 1851 : 
 [including temples, cloths, and mats; spears and clubs, shells and bowls; ele- 
 Iphants' and whales' teeth; costumes, idols, and musical instruments; all pic- 
 turesquely grouped, and touching as a lesson of gratitude exemplary to the silken 
 baron of civilisation. 
 
 WESTMINSTER GUILDHALL, on the south side of the Sanctuary, 
 near the Abbey, was built in 1805, by Cockerell, upon the site of the 
 (market-house, built by subscription in 1568. The Guildhall is octagonal 
 (in plan, and has a Doric entrance-portico : here are held the sessions, 
 (previous to 1752 held at the Town Court-house, near Westminster 
 {Hall, at a rent upon sufferance. (Walcott's Westminster, p. 86.) 
 
 Halls are likewise attached to the INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY, 
 which see. See also WESTMINSTER HALL, WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, p. 214. 
 
 HAYMARKET (THE), 
 
 A very spacious and public street, length 340 yards, where is a great 
 narket for hay and straw" (Hatton, 1708). Hay was sold here in the 
 eign of Elizabeth; and Aggas's plan has "the Haymarket/'withhedge- 
 ows and a few straggling houses ; and washerwomen then dried their 
 nen upon the grass of the site of the present Opera-house. A Token 
 n the British Museum denotes one of the earliest venders of sea- coal 
 have lived here: "Nathaniel Robins, at the Sea-coal seller, 1666." 
 Reverse.) " Hay Markett in Pickadilla, his halfpenny." Charles II. 
 granted the right of holding a cattle-market in the street twice a 
 
 eek, opened 1664: it was paved 1697, by fines on the carts; 3d. for 
 
372 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 each load of hay, and 2d. for straw. The market for hay was removed 
 by Act of Parliament, in 1830, to Cumberland Market, Regent's Park. 
 
 The acclivity of the Haymarket at 490 feet from Piccadilly was, in 
 3842, 1 foot in 22: this has been ingeniously overcome in building the 
 front of Her Majesty's Theatre, the divisions of which have been taken 
 advantage of to lower the lines, whilst the great length of the facade 
 has rendered the rise unnoticeable : it was designed by Novosielski, but 
 re-fronted by Nash and Repton, 1818. Nearly opposite is the Haymarket 
 Theatre, built by Nash in 1821, with a fine Corinthian portico : the site 
 of Potter's "Little Theatre" is occupied by the Cafe" de 1'Europe. 
 
 Opposite Her Majesty's Theatre is Suffolk-place, leading to Suffolk- 
 street, the site of a mansion of the Earls' of Suffolk. In Strype's time 
 the houses were handsome : Moll Davies lived here from 1667 to 1674, 
 in a mansion richly furnished for her by Charles II., which Pepys 
 thought "a most infinite shame :" she kept also " a mighty pretty fine 
 coach." Here lived Sir John Coventry, who, on his way home, when 
 at the corner of the street, had his nose cut to the bone, "for reflecting 
 on the king," in 1669; whence dates the Coventry Act against cutting 
 and maiming. 
 
 Suffolk-street has some classic house-fronts : No. 2 has four charac- 
 teristic oil-jars ; No. 6, next the Society of British Artists' Gallery, is 
 from Andrea Palladio's house at Vicenza. The Gallery, No. 6j, has a 
 Roman-Doric tetrastyle portico on three semicircular arches, by Nash : 
 the suite of five rooms, planned by James Elmes, are lit by large ceiling 
 lanterns, inclined from the perpendicular, and diffusing even light. 
 No. 19 is the stage-door of the Haymarket Theatre. At the south end 
 isthe University Club-house (see p. 199). 
 
 On the east side of the Haymarket is James-street, dated 1673 ; with 
 the Tennis-court of Piccadilly Hall (see TENNIS, p. ]6), the last house 
 in Faithorne's plan of 1658. Above is Panton-street, which, with 
 Panton -square, Coventry-street, was named from Colonel Panton, the 
 ground-landlord, who was a noted and successful gamester, and the last 
 proprietor of Piccadilly Hall. 
 
 In 1772, Puppets were exhibited in Panton-street, and were visited by Burke 
 and Goldsmith. " Burke praised the dexterity of one puppet in particular, who 
 tossed a pike with military precision ; 'PshaF remarked Goldsmith with some 
 warmth, ' I can do it better myself.' " (Forster's Goldsmith.) Boswell relates 
 that Goldsmith " went home with Mr. Burke to supper, and broke his shin by 
 attempting to exhibit to the company how much better he could jump over a 
 stick than the puppets." 
 
 On the west is Norris-street, leading to St. James's Market, once 
 the great western butchers' and poulterers' market, noted by Pepys in 
 1666 as just built by my Lord St. Albans: in a room over the market- . 
 house Richard Baxter used to preach. Here, too, is Jermyn-street, ; 
 named after the above Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albaiis : here is the j 
 One Tun Tavern, a haunt of Sheridan's. 
 
 HIPPODROME (THE), 
 
 A race-course (named from the Greek, hippos, a horse, and dromo$,a. 
 course), was opened in 1838 at Notting-hill, now Kensington Park: it 
 was an imperfect affair, and was unsuccessful as a speculation. 
 
 In 1851, a Hippodrome was built for Mr. Batty's stud in the Ken- 
 sington-road, at the corner of Victoria-road : in plan an oval, 3GO feet 
 longest diameter, with covered ranges of seats for 14,000 spectators, 
 the area being open to the sky ; the stables around it, with the entrance 
 to the course, beneath a music-gallery : the whole was completed in little 
 more than a month : G. L. Taylor, architect. Here Batty, Ducrow's 
 
HOLBORN. 373 
 
 successor, exhibited horse pageants, races with camels and ostriches, and 
 balloon ascents, and feats of equestrianism and equitation, by daylight. 
 The above is not the first occasion of horsemanship being exhibited 
 in this locality ; for in Cromwell Gardens, Mr. Hughes, who built the 
 Surrey Theatre, gave his horsemanship performances in the open air. 
 
 HOLBORN, 
 
 A thoroughfare of varying widths, extends from the north end of Far- 
 ringdon-street to Broad-street, Bloomsbury. It was anciently called 
 Old-bourne, from being built upon the side of a brook or bourne, which 
 "broke out of the ground about the place where now the bars do stand, 
 and ran down the whole street till Old-bourne Bridge, and into the 
 River of the Wells, or Turnemill Brook." (Stow.) 1502. " The deche 
 from the Temse to Holborne-brygge new cast." (Grey Friars' Chroni- 
 cle.) The stream now runs the same course along the common sewer; 
 and the arch of Holborn- bridge was uncovered in 1841. Holborn was 
 first paved in 1417, at the expense of Henry V., when the highway 
 "was so deep and miry that many perils and hazards were thereby 
 occasioned, as well to the king's carriages passing that way, as to 
 those of his subjects." (Rymer's Fcedera, vol. ix. p. 447.) By this road 
 criminals were conveyed from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows 
 at St. Giles's and Tyburn ; whither a ride in the cart " up the Heavy 
 Hill" implied going to be hung, in Ben Jonson's time. 
 
 " As clever Tom Clinch, while the rabble was bawling, 
 Rode stately through Holborn to die of his calling, 
 He stopt at the George for a bottle of sack, 
 And promised to pay for it when he came back." Swift, 1727. 
 'An old Counsellor in Holborn used every execution-day to turn out his 
 clerks with this compliment : ' Go, ye young rogues, go to school and improve.' " 
 Tom Brown. 
 
 To remedy the declivities of Holborn and Snow Hill, various plans have been 
 proposed, by viaducts crossing the valley of the Fleet, and otherwise; and the 
 'nconvenience has been modified by lowering Holborn Hill, the acclivity of which 
 n 1842 varied from 1 in 16| to 1 in 23. In 1838 Mr. Whishaw assumed the average 
 innual amount of traffic between Fetter-lane and the Old Bailey at "20,000,000 
 pedestrians, 871,640 equestrians, 157,752 hackney-coaches, 372,470 carts and 
 svagons, 78,876 stages, 82,258 carriages, 135,842 omnibuses, 460,110 chaises and 
 -axed carts, and 354,942 cabs." 
 
 Alderman Skinner, who built Skinner-street, proposed to construct 
 Abridge from Snow-hill across the valley to Holborn-hill; and to lift 
 he valley 17 feet forms part of Mr. Charles Pearson's plan. 
 
 Gerrard, the herbaUst, lived in Holborn, where he had a large physic- 
 garden (see GARDENS, p. 320) ; and the first edition of his Herbal is 
 llated from here.* Howel elates one of his Familiar Letters, Holborn, 
 Jan. 1641, "to Sir Kenelm Digby, at his house in Saint Martin's-lane." 
 ir Kenelm lived, before the Civil Wars, between King-street and 
 outhampton-street ; Milton in Holborn-row, in a house opening into 
 'incom's-Inn-fields ; and Dr. Johnson, in 1748, at the Golden Anchor, 
 lolborn Bars. These were the City boundaries, now marked by two 
 ranite obelisks near Middle-row, at the south-east corner of which Sir 
 ames Branscomb kept a lottery-office forty years : he had been servant 
 b the Earl of Gainsborough, and was knighted when sheriff of London 
 lid Middlesex in 1806. 
 
 * Gerrard had another physic-garden, in Old-street : his earliest publication was 
 e Catalogue (in Latin) of his own garden in Holborn, printed 1596, 4to ; re- 
 I'inted in 4to, 1599. The first edition was dedicated to Lord Burghley, whose 
 rden Gerrard had superintended for twenty years : the second edition was dedi- 
 ted to Sir Walter Raleigh. A copy of the first edition (of extreme rarity) is in 
 e British Museum. 
 
374 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In Holborn are Thaive's, Barnard's, Furnival's, Staple, and Gray's 
 Inns. (See INNS OF COURT. At the corner of Furnival's Inn, and 
 in Queen-street, Cheapside, Mr. Edward Kidder, the famous pastry- 
 cook (who died April 1739, aged 73 years), had two schools, in which he 
 taught nearly 6000 ladies the art of making pastry. Kidder published 
 his receipts, "engraved on copper, in a thin 8vo, with his head prefixed. 
 
 Southampton-buildings, Holborn, denotes the site of the mansion of 
 the Wriothesleys, Earls of Southampton ; and Brook-street that of 
 the residence of Sir Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, the friend of Sir 
 Philip Sidney. Gate-street, and Great, Little, and New Turnstiles, 
 lead into Lincoln's-Inn-fields ; between the north side of which and 
 the south side of Holborn is Whetstone's Park, a profligate resort of 
 two centuries since, commemorated in the plays of Dryden, Shadwell, 
 and Wycherley. 
 
 On the north side of High Holborn, between Nos. 110 and 77, (see 
 boundary-marks in the pavement,) is the Holborn Charity Estate of St. 
 Clement Danes parish,who purchased the same,a plot of ground and some 
 old buildings, in 1552, for 160?., when Holborn was almost a country 
 road from the City to the village of St. Giles's. The property now 
 produces 40007. a-year, expended in schools, almshouses, and other cha- 
 rities. The Almshouses were first built at the east end of St. Clement's 
 church, Strand; next, about 1790, at the back of Clement's Inn Hall; 
 and in 1818-9 the charity was removed to forty almshouses built in 
 Garratt-lane, Streatham : Infant Schools were erected in Milford-lane, 
 Strand, in 1852. Upon the Holborn Estate is Day and Martin's Blacking 
 Factory, No. 97, built at a cost of 12,0007. : here' Mr. Day amassed great 
 wealth, and, dying in 1836, left 100,0007. for the benefit of persons, like 
 himself, deprived of sight. 
 
 In Endell-street, (formerly Old Belton-street,) High Holborn, lead- 
 ing to Long Acre, on the east side, is the Early English Christ Church, 
 erected in 1845; next is the British Lying-in Hospital, a picturesque 
 Elizabethan structure, built in 1849 ; and a handsome Italianised edifice 
 for Baths and Wash-houses, built in 1852, not far from the site of 
 " Queen Anne's Bath :" whilst, nearly in a line with Endell-street, on 
 the north side of Holborn, are the Industrial Schools, opened in 1852 ; 
 and in Bloomsbury-street, northward, side by side, are three chapels in 
 Early Pointed, Lornbardic, and rococo styles : six of these seven edifices 
 of religion and philanthropy were erected within eight years. 
 
 Kingsgate-street, between 116 and 117 High Holborn, is named 
 from the King's-gate, this being the royal road to Newmarket; and 
 Pepys records, 3 March, 1668-9, the King and the Duke of York, and 
 the Duke of Monmouth, leaving Whitehall at three in the morning, in 
 their coach, which was overset at the King's-gate : " it was dark, and 
 the torches did not, they say, light the coach as they should do." Here ^ 
 in 1852 was an old public-house, sign the Red Gate. 
 
 In Holborn also are FIELD-LANE, ELY-PLACE, FETTER-LANE, FCL- 
 WOOD'S RENTS, CHANCERY- LANE, and DRCRY-LANE, which names see. 
 From Farringdon- street to Fetter-lane is " Holborn Hill;" Fetter-laae 
 to Brook-street, " Holborn :" and from Brook-street to Drury-lane, 
 High Holborn." 
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, KENSINGTON, 
 
 A little west of the town, and about two miles from the metropolis, 
 is a picturesque Elizabethan pile, placed in a beautiful park about mid- 
 way between the Kensington and "Oxbridge roads. This mansion, which 
 is the manor-house of Abbots Kensington, was built in 1607 for Sir 
 Walter Cope, and descended to his son-in-law, Henry Rich, first Earl 
 of Holland; whence it was named Holland House. The Earl was 
 
HOLLAND HOUSE. 375 
 
 twice made prisoner here by Charles I. in 1633, for his challenging 
 Lord Weston ; and by command of the Parliament, after his attempt to 
 restore the king, for which he was beheaded in 1649. Holland House 
 was next occupied by Fairfax as his head-quarters : 
 
 " The Lord-General (Fairfax) is removed from Queen-street to the late Earl of 
 Holland's House at Kensington, where he intends to reside." Perfect Diurnal, 
 9th to 16th July, 1649. 
 
 The mansion was, however, soon restored to the Countess of Holland. 
 During the Protectorate, "in Oliver's time," plays were privately per- 
 formed here. In 1716 the estate passed to Addison the Essayist, by his 
 marriage with Charlotte, Countess Dowager of Holland and Warwick ; 
 and here Addison died June 17, 1719 : having addressed to the dissolute 
 Earl of Warwick these solemn words : " I have sent for you that you 
 may see how a Christian can die!" he shortly after expired: 
 
 " There taught us how to live, and oh, too high 
 The price for knowledge! taught us how to die." 
 
 The young Earl himself died in 1721. About the year 1762, the estate 
 was sold to Henry Fox, the first Baron Holland of that name, whose 
 second son, Charles James Fox, passed his early years at Holland House ; 
 and here lived his nephew, the late accomplished peer, at whose death, 
 in 1840, the estate descended to his only son, the present Lord Holland, 
 by whom the olden character of the mansion and its appurtenances is 
 studiously maintained: the latest restorations are by Barry, R.A. 
 
 Thorpe's drawings of Holland House are preserved in the Soanean 
 Museum. Its plan is that of half the letter H ; it first consisted of the 
 centre and turrets only, to which Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, added 
 the wings, and their connecting arcades : the materials are deep-red 
 brick, with stone finishings ; but the exterior has lost many of its original 
 features. Eastward is a stone gateway, designed by Inigo Jones, and 
 carved by N. Stone ; the lodges and enriched metal gates in the Ken- 
 sington-road were added in 1838. The raised terrace, with an open 
 parapet and vases of plants, was added to the south front in 1848, 
 when also the public footpath was diverted to the east side of the 
 Park. In the Hall is the model of Westmacott's statue of Fox, erected 
 in Bloomsbury-square. In the Journal-room (which contains a com- 
 plete set of the Journals of the Lords and Commons) is a large collec- 
 tion of preserved birds, reptiles, insects, shells, minerals, &c. The 
 Great Staircase and the Gilt Room are of the time of James I. : the 
 former has massive balustrades, carved into arches, &c. The Gilt 
 Room is mostly by Francis Cleyn, who was much employed by James I. 
 and Charles I. : the ceiling "in grotesque," by Cleyn, fell down during 
 the minority of the late Lord Holland; the wainscot-panels have 
 alternately gold fleurs-de-lis on blue, within palm-branches; and gold 
 crosslets on red, encircled with laurel ; with the arms of the Rich and 
 Cope families, and the punning motto, Ditior est qui se ? who more 
 rich than he ? The entablature has a painted leaf enrichment, with gilt 
 acorns between ; the compartments of the two fire-places are painted 
 with female figures and bas-reliefs from the antique fresco of the Aldo- 
 brandini Marriage, executed by Cleyn, and not unworthy of Parmegiano : 
 among the furniture are carved and gilt shell-back chairs, also by Cleyn, 
 and a table from the Charter-house hall. Here are marble busts of 
 George IV. when Regent; William IV.; Henry IV. of France; the 
 Duke of Sussex; the Duke of Cumberland of Culloden, by Rysbrack ; 
 the late Lord Holland; C. J. Fox, by Nollekens, a duplicate made for 
 the Empress Catherine of Russia ; Napoleon, by Milne ; Ariosto, copied 
 from his tomb ; and Henry Fox, first Lord Holland, often declared by 
 Bartolozzi to be " one of the finest specimens of sculpture since the 
 
376 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 days of Phidias or Praxiteles." In the bow recess are models of Henry 
 Earl of Pembroke and Thomas "VVinnington, Esq. (See Richardson's 
 Architectural Remains of the Reigns of Elizabeth and James I.) 
 
 In the Breakfast-room are family portraits by Lely, Kneller, Rey- 
 nolds, Hoppner, &c. ; and in the Great Drawing-room (40 feet by 18 
 feet) are some very fine pictures, including a scene by Hogarth from 
 Drvden's Indian Emperor, acted by children, all portraits; a Sea-port, 
 by Velasquez ; a Holy Family, on copper, by Murillo ; a Man and Boy 
 eating Fruit, by Velasquez ; and Hope nourishing Love, and half-lengths 
 of Garrick and Sterne, by Reynolds. The Library, or Long Gallery, 
 102 feet by 17 feet 4 inches, forms the eastern wing of the mansion : the 
 collection exceeds 18,000, besides MSS. and autographs, including three 
 plays of Lope de Vega. In the other apartments are valuable pictures, 
 miniatures, drawings, sculptures ; with enriched cabinets, vases, carv- 
 ings in ivory, china, filagree-work, time-pieces, &c. In the Ante-room 
 is the celebrated collection of miniatures. Here, too, is Reynolds's cele- 
 brated picture of Lady Susan Lenox leaning from a bay-window on 
 the north side of Holland House, to receive a dove from Lady Susan 
 Strangeways, near whom is C. J. Fox, when a boy of 14. 
 
 This " brave old house" is charmingly placed upon high ground : 
 
 " Thou hill, whose brow the antique structures grace." 
 
 Tickell, on the Death of Addison. 
 
 the upper apartments are stated to be on a level with the stone gallery 
 of St. Paul's Cathedral. The southern park is enclosed with noble 
 elms. Against the house grow some curious old exotic plants. The 
 gardens abound with architectural quaintness : of parterres in Italian 
 scrolls and devices, and box and dwarf oaks clipped into globes ; flower 
 beds in the forms of a fox, (in allusion to the family name,) and the 
 old English 5). ; the effect of the flowers aided by coloured sand, and 
 the outlines of box-edging. In a parterre near the house, upon a 
 granite column, is a bronze bust of Buonaparte, by Canova, the pillar 
 inscribed with a verse from Homer's Odyssey ; and in the north garden- 
 wall is an arbour with this distich by the late Lord Holland : 
 
 "Here ROGERS sat and here for ever dwell 
 With me those ' Pleasures' which he sang so well." VU. Ha. 
 
 Beneath are some lines added in 1818 by Henry Luttrel. 
 
 In the French garden, in 1804, was first raised in England the 
 Dahlia, from seeds sent to the late Lord Holland from Spain. The 
 grounds westward, with their stately oaks and cedars, were laid out 
 and planted in 1769 by Mr. Charles Hamilton, of Pains Hill. 
 
 Aubrey relates two supernatural appearances at Holland House : the first to 
 "the beautiful Lady Diana Rich, daughter to the Earl of Holland, as she was 
 walking in her father's garden at Kensington," when she "met with her own 
 apparition, habit and every thing, as in a looking-glass. About a month after 
 she died of the small-pox." Aubrey's second story is that the third daughter of 
 Lord Holland, not long after her marriage with the first Earl of Breadalbane, 
 " had some such warning of approaching dissolution." 
 
 In a meadow west of Holland House was fought, March 7, 1804, a 
 fatal duel between the late Lord Camelford and Captain Best, R.N. : 
 upon the spot where Lord Camelford fell is an antique Roman altar, 
 placed there and thus inscribed by the late Lord Holland: "Hoc D!S 
 
 MAN. VOTO DISCORDIAM DEPRECAMUR." 
 
 The Highland and Scottish Societies' gatherings, with their charac- 
 teristic sports and pastimes, have been annually held in Holland Park 
 north, since 1849. 
 
 There is a traditional story that Addison, to escape from his ter- 
 magant countess, often walked from Holland House to the White- Horse 
 
HORSE- FERRY. HORSE-GUARDS. 377 
 
 Inn, at the corner of " Lord Holland's Lane," (no longer a thorough- 
 fare,) on the site of the present Holland- Arms Inn ; and there enjoyed 
 " his favourite dish, a fillet of veal, his bottle, and perhaps a friend." 
 (Spence.) Before his marriage, Addison lived in Kensington-square. 
 
 Holland House is associated " with the courtly magnificence of Rich, with 
 the loves of Ormond, the councils of Cromwell, with the death of Addison." It 
 has been for nearly two centuries and a half the favourite resort of wits and 
 beauties, of painters and poets, of scholars, philosophers, and statesmen. In the 
 lifetime of the late Lord Holland it was the meeting-place of "the "Whig Party;" 
 and his liberal hospitality made it "the resort not only of the most interesting 
 persons composing English society, literary, philosophical, and political, but also 
 to all belonging to those classes who ever visited this country from abroad." 
 (Lord Brougham.) In this delightful circle, " every talent and every accomplish- 
 ment, every art and science, had its place. . . The last debate was discussed in 
 one corner, and the last comedy of Scribe in another ; while Wilkie gazed with 
 admiration on Reynolds's Baretti ; while Mackintosh turned over Thomas 
 Aquinas to verify a quotation ; while Talleyrand related his conversations with 
 Barras at the Luxembourg, or his ride with Lannes over the fields of Austerlitz." 
 (Murray's Environs of London.) "Holland House" (says Macaulay) "can 
 boast of a greater number of inmates distinguished in political and literary history 
 than any other private dwelling in England." 
 
 HORSE-FERRY (THE), 
 
 Between "Westminster and Lambeth, was the only Horse-ferry permitted 
 on the Thames at London, and was granted by patent to the Arch- 
 jbishop of Canterbury; the ferry-boat station being near the palace- 
 gate. Here were two inns for the reception of travellers, who arriving 
 jat night, did not choose to cross the water at such an hour, or in case 
 of bad weather, might prefer waiting for better. On opening West- 
 minster Bridge, 1750, the ferry ceased, and compensation was granted 
 to the See. (BRIDGES, p. 68.) 
 
 The rates were, for a man and horse, 2s. ; horse and chaise, Is. ; 
 coach and two horses, Is. Gd. ; coach and four horses, 2s. ; coach and six 
 lorses, 2s. 6d. ; cart loaden, 2*. 6d. ; cart or wagon, each 2s. 
 
 At the time of the Usurpation, a wooden house was built for a small guard 
 josted here. M. de Lauzun mentions the ferry in his account of the escape of 
 the Queen of James II., Dec. 9, 1688 : Sir Edward Hales being in attendance with 
 a hackney-coach, " we drove from Whitehall to Westminster, and arrived safely 
 it the place called the Horse-ferry, where I had engaged a boat to wait for me." 
 
 The same author adds : " the King, attended by Sir Edward Hales, who was 
 waiting for him, descended the back stairs, and crossing Privy Gardens, as the 
 Queen had done two nights before, proceeded to the Horse-ferry, and crossed the 
 jrhames in a little boat with a single pair of oars to Vauxhall. He threw the 
 jareat Seal into the river by the way; but it was afterwards recovered, in a net 
 :ast at random, by some fishermen." 
 
 " Very early one morning, the Duke of Marlborough, with his hounds, desired 
 o cross by the ferry; one Wharton, the waterman at hand, was subsequently 
 rewarded by the Duke obtaining for him a grant of the ferry-house, the present 
 >wner of which is a descendant of Wharton." Walcott's Westminster, p. 333. 
 
 HORSE-GUARDS (THE), 
 
 U Whitehall, is named from a troop of Horse-Guards being constantly 
 n duty here : the buildings comprise the offices of the Secretary-at-War, 
 ie Commander-in-chief, the Adjutant-General, and Quarter- Master 
 jeneral. The Horse-Guards were originally raised by Charles II., 
 vho had built for them stables and barracks in the tilt-yard of White- 
 all, which Pennant has engraved, with " the banquetting-house, one 
 f the gates, the treasury in its ancient state, and the top of the cock- 
 it in the back view." These stables and barracks were removed in 
 751, and the present Horse-Guards was built of stone from a design 
 
378 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 attributed to Kent, but "broken into complex forms, much in the pic- 
 turesque style of Vaubrugh." (Weale's London.) It consists of a 
 centre and two pavilion wings, with a turret and clock; the west front 
 opening into St. James's Park, by a low and mean archway ; the entree 
 for carriages is only for royal and other privileged personages. In 
 the rear is the parade-ground, part of the ancient tilt-vard, with a 
 guard-station for infantry ; and here inspections of the" troops take 
 place. In the vestibule of the building is the boundary-line of the 
 parishes of St. Martin's and St. Margaret's, Westminster, denoted by 
 inscriptions. In the Audience-room, facing the Park, the Military 
 Secretary and the Commander-in-chief hold their levees: here are 
 portraits, by Gainsborough, of George III. and his Consort; and a 
 bust of the late Duke of York. Attached to the Quarter-Master- 
 General's office is a Board of Topography, with a depot of maps, plans, 
 and a library of military works. In the Guards' Mess-room is a portrait 
 of Aubrey de Yere, Earl of Oxford, in armour, commander of Charles 
 II.'s "Regiment of Horse," and after whom were named the " Oxford 
 Blues," now the Royal Horse- Guards Blue. 
 
 In two stone alcoves, flanking the gates, facing Whitehall, is stationed a 
 guard of two mounted cavalry soldiers from ten to four o'clock, relieved every two 
 hours ; when the doors in the rear are thrown open, and the two relieving guards 
 enter; whilst those relieved ride out in front, describe a semicircle, meet, and 
 ride side by side through the central gate, and so back to their stables. Orders 
 concerning all the Guards in London are given out by the field officer on duty at 
 the Horse-Guards. Thus, should any of them be wanted on an emergency,*the 
 Commander-in-chief communicates with him, and he arranges what regiment is 
 to supply the detachment required. The marching and countermarching of the 
 Guards drawn from the cavalry barracks at Knightsbridge and the Regent's 
 Park, is a picturesque scene, as the troop passes through the Parks, on the march 
 line of Portland-place, Regent-street, and Waterloo-place : their stately cuirassed 
 and helmeted figures, and the splendour of their accoutrements, rendering them 
 the most magnificent " Household troops" in Europe. 
 
 HORSE-GUARDS' CLOCK. 
 
 This accredited timekeeper has about the same popular reputation 
 for correct time at the west end of the town, that St. Paul's clock holds 
 in the City. The Horse Guards' Clock was originally made by Thwaites, 
 in 1756 : it is a large 30-hour clock, striking the quarters upon two 
 bells; and shewing the time upon two dials, one facing St. James's 
 Park, and the other Whitehall. The frame is of wrought-iron ; the 
 wheels are of yellow brass ; and the pinions are iron, case-hardened. The 
 going-part discharges the hours as well as the quarters, which is a con- 
 siderable drag upon the clock, the present practice being to make the 
 quarters discharge the hours. Originally, the clock had a common 
 recoil escapement, and the pallets became much worn ; the pendulum 
 was 8 feet 2 inches long, and to reduce the arc of vibration it was fur- 
 nished with fans (it has been preserved as a Curiosity) ; the train con- 
 sisted of a great wheel, centre, third, and escape wheels, as usual ; and . 
 the striking-parts were of the ordinary description. The work was 
 throughout very coarsely executed. 
 
 In 1815-6, the going-part, including the dial-works and hands, and 
 connecting rod-work, was made new by B. L. Vulliamy, F.R A.S., 
 clockmaker to the King, and maker of the great clock "at Windsor 
 Castle, the General Post-office clock, &c. The new going-train 
 now consists of only three wheels: an escape, which makes one re- 
 volution in four minutes; a centre wheel, one revolution in an hour; 
 and a great wheel and two pinions, each of 22 teeth, or leaves as 
 they are sometimes called. The brass barrel and caps are new ; 
 and a ratchet attached to the great wheel keeps the clock going 
 
 * 
 
HORSE-GUARDS* CLOCK. 379 
 
 while being wound. The wheels are of the best yellow brass, and 
 the escape and centre wheel arbours and pinions are steel, har- 
 dened and tempered. The pivots work in gun-metal holes in bosses, 
 which are held by screws (not riveted as ordinarily) ; this facilitates the 
 cleaning of the pivots and pivot-holes. The front pivot of the escape- 
 wheel carries a seconds-hand, which (the pendulum vibrating two 
 seconds) shews the seconds by the hand advancing two seconds each 
 vibration. The pendulum has a teak-wood rod, and a cast-iron bob 
 weighing ITOlbs. : it is terminated by a gun-metal screw, and nut cut 
 into a strong thread, by which the clock is regulated. The pendulum 
 is hung upon an A-cock, independent of the frame of the clock, which 
 can be taken to pieces and the clock cleaned without disturbing the 
 pendulum. It is suspended by a cross screw-pin, by which it may 
 be set relatively to the pivot of the verge; so that, as far as pos- 
 sible, the pendulum and crutch have one common centre of motion. 
 The crutch has these advantages: the pendulum cannot become dis- 
 engaged from it, or have too much or too little shake in it ; and the 
 friction by any difference in the centre of motion is reduced to the 
 smallest possible quantity. There is a special adjustment for setting the 
 clock in beat by two screws, such as are employed in the best regulators. 
 
 The escapement is the pin-wheel, but differs from Le Paute's or 
 any other in this respect : that if any of the pins, from defect of execu- 
 tion, do not stand perpendicular to the face of the wheel, still the pin 
 will have a flat and complete bearing upon the pallet, both during the 
 rest and the impulse. The escapement is exceedingly well made, and 
 there is, consequently, very little drop or loss of power. (It is com- 
 pletely described, with an engraving, in " Etudes sur diverses Questions 
 \ d'Horologerie" par Henri Robert. Paris, 1852.) The weight of the 
 maintaining power, suspended by a double line, is about 301bs., pulley 
 51bs. = tfolbs. ; and the arc of vibration of the pendulum is about 3 15' 
 on each side. 
 
 To indicate correctly the arc of vibration of the pendulum, a portion 
 of a circle divided into degrees and minutes, having for radius the length 
 of the pendulum, is engraved upon a brass plate placed under it, with 
 this inscription : 
 
 " This Clock was repaired by the order of the Right Hon. Viscount Palmerston, 
 Secretary-at-War, and made to shew seconds. New two-seconds pendulum with 
 teak-wood rod, and new suspension for the pendulum, a new escapement, new 
 intermediate wheel, new barrel and going-ratchet, new dial-works and rod-work, 
 new hands, new pulleys, new stool, new box, and new fitting-up, and this degree- 
 plate, were made by Vulliamy and Son, clockmakers to the King, London, A.D. 
 1816." 
 
 In this clock are applied, it is believed for the first time to a turret or 
 public clock in the metropolis, the following improvements:* a dead pin- 
 wheel escapement ; a two-seconds pendulum, without disturbing which 
 the clock can be taken to pieces; the shewing of seconds, which facili- 
 ;ates the regulating and taking the rate of the clock ; a ratchet to keep 
 the clock going while being wound; and a degree-plate to indicate 
 very correctly the arc of vibration of the pendulum. f 
 
 Being a 30-hour clock, it is necessarily wound every day, not set 
 every day, as sometimes understood: this facilitates the taking of 
 .ts daily rate, which was done with little intermission from 1815 to 
 1851, when the clock ceased to be under Mr. Vulliamy's care. It has con- 
 stantly measured time with extraordinary accuracy, altogether sufficient 
 
 * Le Paute's clock at the Hotel de Ville, Paris, has a two-seconds pendulum ; 
 
 C"h a nine-bar compensation-rod; but this clock is without a seconds-hand. 
 \ Communicated by Mr. B. L. Vulliamy, F.R.A.S., Clockmaker to the Queen, 
 to their late Majesties George III., George IV., and William IV. 
 
380 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 for any practical purpose not connected with astronomical observations ; 
 much of its reputation may be conventional from the rigid punctuality 
 with which the slightest military movement is executed. By a baro- 
 meter and register-thermometer placed in the clock-room, the varia- 
 tions have been regularly taken with the rate of the clock. The dials 
 are each 7 feet 5 inches diameter, and painted white, with black nu- 
 merals and hands ; the "Whitehall dial is very effectively illuminated at 
 night by a strong light thrown from a lamp, with a reflector, placed 
 on the projecting roof in front of the clock-tower. 
 
 HOSPITALS. 
 
 Of the more than 500 Charitable Institutions of the Metropolis, one 
 quarter consists of general Medical Hospitals, Medical Charities for 
 special purposes, Dispensaries, and Societies for the preservation of life 
 and public morals, mostly supported by donations and annual subscrip- 
 tions. Of these palaces of humanity, the following are the principal. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL, see page 31. 
 
 BETHLEM HOSPITAL, see page 42. 
 
 CHARING CROSS HOSPITAL, Agar-street, was commenced by Deci- 
 mus Burton, as a portion of the West-Strand Improvements, in 1831; 
 when the first stone was laid, Sept. 15, with Masonic solemnity, by the 
 Duke of Sussex, Grand Master of the Freemasons. The Charity, 
 founded in 1818, comprises a Dispensary and Casualty Hospital, being 
 the eighth established in the Metropolis, the population of which had 
 doubled since the seventh Hospital was instituted. The architecture 
 is Grecian, and the circular termination of the plan well accords with 
 the form of the site. Although upwards of 1000 in-patients and 17,000 
 out have been treated in one year, the annual average cost of the es- 
 tablishment is stated at only 2506/. 
 
 In the year ending July 1852 there were 17,995 patients, including 1200 in- 
 patients: accidents admitted during the year, 2,238, of which 728 were from falls 
 from elevations ; from falling of earth and buildings, &c., 93 ; steam-engine, mill, 
 and crane accidents, 78 ; injuries from vehicles, 168 ; burns, scalds, and explosions, 
 74 ; immersion in water, taking deleterious articles and noxious gases, 25 ; bites 
 of animals, 42 ; personal violence, blows, and stabs, 278 ; from cutting instruments 
 and contusions, 580; apoplexy, 65 ; hernia and haemorrhages, 65. 
 
 CITT OF LONDON LYING-IN HOSPITAL, corner of Old-street, City 
 road, was built 1770-3, and has a small unmeaning spire. It was insti- 
 tuted 1750, at Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate-street. This Hospital is 
 for the reception and delivery of the pregnant wives of seamen and 
 soldiers, mechanics, and laborious poor ; the annual number of women 
 delivered here being 550. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON HOSPITAL FOR DISEASES OF THE CHEST, Victoria 
 Park (once Bishop Bonner's Fields), was founded by Prince Albert, 
 June 25, 1&51. The building, by Ordish, is in the Queen Anne style, 
 and has a central campanile : the interior is warmed and ventilated by 
 hot water, as the heating and extracting power. 
 
 CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, Brompton, fronting the Fulham-road, 
 was commenced 1844, June 11, when Prince Albert laid the first stone; 
 the site was formerly a nursery-garden, and the genial, moist air of 
 Brompton has long been recommended for consumptive patients. The 
 Hospital is in the Tudor style, of red brick, with stone finishings; 
 Francis, architect : it was opened in 1846. In 1850 was attached an ele- 
 gant memorial chapel (see CHAPELS, p. 164); and in 1852 was added 
 the western wing of the Hospital, towards which Mdlle. Jenny Lind, 
 when residing at Old Brompton, in July 1848, munificently presented 
 
HOSPITALS: GUY'S. 381 
 
 1,606Z. 16*., the proceeds of a concert held by her for this aid. This noble 
 act is gracefully commemorated by Mdlle. Lind's bust being placed upon 
 the Hospital staircase : here also is a painted window, of characteristic 
 design, presented by agoyernor. The Hospital is ventilated by machinery, 
 worked by a steam-engine ; and is warmed by water heated by two 
 large Arnott stoves. In the kitchen, steam is used for boiling caldrons 
 of beef-tea, mutton-broth, arrow-root, coffee, chocolate, &c. ; and the 
 provisions are wound up a shaft to the respective wards. The patients 
 take exercise in the well-ventilated passages; and the wards are tem- 
 pered by warm fresh air, which enters at the floor, and escapes by valves 
 [in the ceiling. There is a library for the in-patients, and the Rose 
 i Charity Fund for convalescents. The deaths in this new Hospital have 
 jhave never exceeded one in every five in-patients, whereas in the former 
 Hospital they were one in four. 
 
 ST. GEOBGE'S HOSPITAL, Hyde-Park Corner, originated with a 
 >arty of dissentient Governors of Westminster Hospital, who, in 1733, 
 onverted Lanesborough House, Grosvenor-place, into an Infirmary. 
 Pennant describes the old mansion as the country-house of 
 
 " The sober Lanesborow dancing, in the gout :" 
 ence also the quaint distich inscribed on the house-front : 
 
 " Tt is my delight to be 
 Both in town and country." 
 
 The Hospital has been rebuilt ; architect, Wilkins, R.A., in 1831 : the 
 rand front, facing the Green Park, is very elegant. The number of 
 eds is 350 ; in the original infirmary there were but 60. 
 
 An ingenious telegraph has been devised here for the transmission of orders 
 rough the different wards. In the hall is a column three feet high, with a dial 
 f engraved signals, and on the walls of the different wards are corresponding 
 ials ; so that when the pointer to the hall-dial is moved to any signal, all the 
 thers move accordingly, and a little hammer strikes a bell: by which means 
 bout fifty signals are transmitted daily in each ward, without the possibility of 
 rror or the least noise. 
 
 William Hunter was a surgical pupil at St. George's in 1741, when 
 e resided with the eminent Smellie, at that time an apothecary in 
 'all Mall. William's brother, John Hunter, was appointed Surgeon to 
 t. George's in 1768 ; and here, in 1793, he died of disease of the heart, 
 le had long disputed with his colleagues a matter of right ; and on the 
 lorning of the sad day, October 16, he remarked that if any dispute 
 jccurred, it would prove fatal : he attended a meeting of the Governors, 
 me of whom flatly contradicted Hunter, when he retired to an adjoining 
 pom, and there fell lifeless into the arms of Dr. Robertson, one of the 
 lospital Physicians. Hunter was a man of acute feeling : Lavater, 
 
 seeing his portrait, remarked, " That man thinks for himself." 
 
 GENERAL LYING-IN HOSPITAL, York-road, Lambeth, was originally 
 itablished in 1765, by Dr. John Leake, in the Westminster -bridge-road ; 
 d was incorporated in 1830, when the present Hospital was built. 
 
 GUT'S HOSPITAL, Southwark, on the south side of St. Thomas's- 
 reet, was built by Dance, the City architect, in 1722-4, at the sole 
 pense of Thomas Guy, the bookseller in Lombard- street, who by 
 inting and selling Bibles made a fortune : this he greatly increased 
 
 purchasing seamen's tickets at a large discount, and afterwards 
 resting them in the South-Sea Company. 
 
 Guy was the son of a lighterman at Horselydown, where he was born in 1644. 
 was apprenticed to John Clarke, bookseller and binder, in a house in the 
 ch of Mercers' Hall, Cheapside, in 1660. In this house, rebuilt after the Gieat 
 e, Guy commenced business for himself; and he subsequently removed to the 
 
382 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 house between Cornhilland Lombard-street, since known as " the Lucky Corner," 
 and Pidding's Lottery Office, nearly on the site of the Globe Insurance Company's 
 Offices. Guy had agreed to marry his housekeeper, who, however, displeased 
 him, and thenceforth he devoted his immense fortune to works of charity. In 
 1707, he built and furnished three wards of St. Thomas's Hospital; the stately 
 iron gate, with the large houses flanking it in High-street, Guy also built at the 
 expense of 3000/. He was also a liberal benefactor to the Stationers' Company; 
 built and endowed almshouses and a library at Tamworth, in Stafford.>hire, the 
 place of his mother's birth, and which he represented in Parliament. In his 76th 
 year, he took of the president and governors of St. Thomas's Hospital a piece of 
 ground opposite the south side of their Hospital for 999 years, at a ground-rent 
 of SOL a-year; thereon, in the spring of 1722, Guy laid the first stone of a Hos- 
 pital for the cure of sick and impotent persons ; and the building was roofed in 
 before his death, Dec. 27, 1724. The expense of erecting and finishing the Hos- 
 pital was 18,792^. 16s., and the sum left to endow it it was 219, 499/. 0*. id.; the 
 largest sum ever left by an individual for charitable purposes. His noble example 
 has been followed by Mr. Hunt of Petersham, who, in 1829, bequeathed to the 
 Hospital 195, 115/., stipulating for the addition of accommodation for 100 patients. 
 About 1Q,OOOJ. has also been received from other benefactors. 
 
 " The annual income is now between 25.000L and 30,000/., arising chiefly from 
 estates purchased with the valuable bequests of Guy and Hunt, in the counties 
 of Essex, Hereford, and Lincoln. The usual number of governors is 60, who are 
 self-elective. The office cannot be constituted by any contribution, and there is 
 no published list of them." Low's Charities of London, 1850. 
 
 The Hospital consists of a centre and two wings; behind is a quad- 
 rangle, and beyond is a lunatic house for twenty-four insane patients, 
 with a garden and airing-ground for their recreation ; in 1839, one of 
 these patients had been in the Hospital fifty -three years. In the \vings 
 are the officers' apartments, a surgery, apothecary's shop, laboratories, 
 medical and operating theatres, and a room for the application of elec- 
 tricity and galvanism. Here, too, are a museum, library, a very fine 
 anatomical collection, models in wax by Towne, &c. Westward is the 
 Chapel ; and eastward, the Court-room. Attached to the Hospital 
 is a botanic garden for the students. In 1852 were added two hand- 
 some wings, heated by Sylvester, and ventiiated by a shaft 200 feet high, 
 and 14 feet square inside, with an open cupola and a wind-vane, which 
 sends down the shaft fresh air into the wards; while two lower shafts 
 carry off the effluvia. 
 
 In the front court is a metal statue of Guy, in his livery-gown, by 
 Scheemakers ; the pedestal bears representations in relief of Christ 
 healing an impotent man; the Good Samaritan; Guy's arms, and an 
 inscription. In the centre of the front are two characteristic statues 
 by John Bacon, a native of Southwark. 
 
 In the Chapel (service daily at 9 A.M.) is a fine marble statue of 
 Guy, by Bacon, which cost 1000Z. : he stands in his livery -gown, with 
 one hand raising an emaciated figure from the ground, and with the 
 other pointing to a second sufferer, as he is borne on a bier into the 
 Hospital, at the back : on the pedestal are emblematic medallions and 
 a glowing inscription, asserting that Guy "rivalled the endowment 
 of kings." Here is buried Sir Astley Cooper, the distinguished sur- ; 
 geon, to whom there is a marble monument. In the Court-room, over , 
 the president's chair, is a portrait by Dahl, a Danish painter, of Guy, 
 in the black gown and long flowing wig of his time : on the ceiling is 
 painted his apotheosis. 
 
 The Physical Society of Guy's Hospital was founded in 1771, and is 
 composed of the medical officers and students of St. Thomas's and Guy's 
 Hospitals ; the contributions being medical or physiological papers. 
 
 Guy's Hospital, before 1852, made up about 580 beds ; average of 
 in-patients at one time, 500; entire annual average, 50,000. 
 
 HAHNEMANN HOSPITAL, 6 Bloomsbury-square, for the treatment of 
 patients on the Homoeopathic system of Dr. Hahnemann, was opened 
 
 X. 
 
HOSPITALS: LOCK. 383 
 
 Sept. 16, 1850 ; in two years were treated about 450 in-patients, and 
 apwards of 7000 out-patients. 
 
 IDIOTS' ASYLUM : Office, 29 Poultry ; instituted 1847, for the main- 
 tenance, education, and general treatment of Idiots ; with the motto, 
 [( We plead for those who cannot plead for themselves." The Asylum 
 was first opened at Park House, Highgate, January 1848; and next 
 pear, in Essex Hall, Colchester.* 
 
 The number of Idiots exceeds that of Lunatics, as stated at a meeting of the 
 friends of the Asylum, March 19, 185] ; when the Earl of Carlisle observed : " There 
 :s nothing grand or picturesque in this form of human calamity. Milton was 
 Dlind, Virgil asthmatic, Horace blear-eyed even about insanity there is a moody 
 najesty ; but the poor idiot cannot be made the Lear or Belvidera of tragedy. 
 He is also subject to insult and contempt in real life the butt and scarecrow of 
 ;he village-green, the drudge of the domestic hearth. At best, his life is one of 
 egatives. Dead to the noblest impulses, the uninstructed idiot is powerful for 
 lischief, while free from responsibility. Here, then, is the want and justification 
 f the present institution." The subscription which followed included 250 guineas 
 rom the Prince of Wales ; 200 guineas from the City of London ; and 200 guineas 
 rom the Drapers' Company. About the room were arranged specimens of drawing, 
 Titing, and handicraft work by the poor idiot children in the temporary Asylum ; 
 Jl refuting the assertion of their faculties being irredeemably waste. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE HOSPITAL, Carey-street, Lincoln 's-Inn Fields, 
 as established in 1839 for the sick poor, for affording practical in- 
 truction to the medical students of King's College, under their own 
 >rofessors. The building of a new Hospital, by subscription, was 
 ommenced June 18, 1852, when the first stone was laid by the Arch- 
 ishop of Canterbury : the wards to be very spacious, light, and airy ; 
 jvlth ventilation by opposite windows and open fire-places, without 
 rtificial aid ; and the arrangement for teaching to include an operating 
 heatre and chapel, dispensary, laboratory, &c. 
 
 I LOCK HOSPITAL, Harrow-road; CHAPEL and ASYLUM, "Westbourne 
 preen : the Hospital established 1746, for the treatment of the peculiar 
 jisease incident to profligate women ; the Asylum founded 1787 by the 
 jlible commentator, the Rev. Thomas Scott, for the reclamation of the 
 ired inmates into virtuous habits; and the Chapel in 1764, for the 
 inistration to the unfortunate patients and inmates. The establish- 
 icnt was originally formed in Grosvenor-place, where the Chapel, by 
 popular preachers, became a source of income to the institution, 
 his is the only Asylum existing in connexion with a hospital; all peni- 
 mtiaries are necessarily shut against the sick and dying outcasts ; and 
 >r such there is no complete refuge save "the Lock Hospital." (See 
 Jew's Charities, p. 99.) In 1842, the Institution was removed to its 
 esent site : in 1849, the success of an autograph appeal by the late 
 uke of Cambridge provided for the admission of double the number 
 ' patients. The Chapel yields a clear income of 200/. a year. 
 The Lock Hospital is so called from the Loke or Lock, in Kent-street, South- 
 rk, a spital for leprous persons, of early date. The name has been referred to 
 old French loques, rags, from the linen applied to sores ; " but otherwise, and 
 h more probability, from the Saxon lok. shut, closed, in reference to the 
 cessary seclusion of the leper on account of the infectious nature of his disease." 
 rcher's Vestiges, Part I.) We find Lock "an infirmary" in Bailey's Dictionary, 
 icrs trace the Southwark Hospital to the stream, or open sewer, called "the 
 ck," which divided the parishes of St. George and St. Mary, Newington, and is 
 ewn in Rocque's large map of Surrey. The Hospital, known to have existed 
 ip. Edward II., had a chapel dedicated to St. Leonard. (Tanner.) It came 
 o the possession of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, whence it received patients : 
 ling into decay, it was let in tenements, was taken down in 1809, and its site 
 d into the Dover-road ; a portion of the site was, however, consecrated as the 
 pish burial-ground more than a century since, and so continues. 
 
 * An Asylum for Idiots, and Savings Eaaks, were suggested by Defoe. 
 
384 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 There were other "Locks:" 2. Between Mile End and Stratford-le-Bow. 
 3. At Kingsland, between Shoreditch and Stoke Newington, the chapel of which, 
 St. Bartholomew's, remained till 1840. (See CHAPELS, page 164.) A sun-dial on 
 the premises formerly bore this inscription significant of sin and sorrow : 
 
 " Post voluptatem misericordia." 
 
 Prior to its alienation from the mother hospital, the house had a communication 
 with the chapel, so contrived that the patients might take part in the service 
 without seeing or being seen by the rest of the congregation; and there was a 
 similar arrangement in the Lock chapel in Grosvenor-place. 4. At Knightsbridge, 
 east of Albert-gate, was a lazar-house under the patronage of the Abbot and 
 Convent of Westminster : the Hospital chapel (Holy Trinity) remains: it was 
 rebuilt in 1627, by a license from Dr. Laud, then Bishop of London, as a chapel of 
 ease to St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, within the precincts of which it was situated; 
 but it was subsequently assigned to the parish of St. George, Hanover-square, and 
 now forms part of Kensington. Notes and Queries, No. 114. 
 
 The two largest Leper Hospitals were, however, St. James's, Westminster, 
 founded before the Conquest (Stow), and made a royal palace by Henry VIII. ; 
 the original gateway remains. Next was St. Giles' s-in-the-Fields, founded about 
 1117. (See ST. GILES'S, p 327.) 
 
 LONDON FEVER HOSPITAL, Liverpool-road, Islington, was opened 
 1849 ; its erection cost 19,483/. 2*. 9d., defrayed by the compensation- 
 vote of 20,0001. paid by the Great Northern Railway Company, whose 
 terminus now occupy the site of the old Hospital, instituted 1803. 
 
 LONDON HOSPITAL, Whitechapel-road, originally "the London In- 
 firmary," was instituted 1740, in a large old mansion in Prescott- 
 street, Goodman's Fields : it was incorporated in 1758, and the pre- 
 sent Hospital built on " the Mount," Whitechapel-road. The Charity 
 was established for the poor sick, particularly manufacturers, seamen, 
 watermen, coal-heavers, shipwrights, labourers on the river, and 
 children. In 1791, a Samaritan Society, at the suggestion of Sir W. 
 Blizard (the first established), was appended to this Hospital, for the 
 benefit of homeless convalescents, sending them to the sea-side, &c. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S HOSPITAL for Lunatics was first established 1751, in a 
 house upon Windmill-hill, on the north side of Moorfields, nearly oppo- 
 site the present Worship-street. In 1753, pupils were admitted to the 
 Hospital ; and Dr. Battie, the original physician, allowed medical men to 
 observe his practice. This law fell into disuse, but was revived in 1813; 
 and an annual course of chemical lectures established, at which pupils 
 selected by the physicians of the different metropolitan hospitals are 
 allowed to attend gratuitously. In 1754, incurable patients were 
 admitted on payment to the Hospital on Windmill-hill. In 1782, was 
 commenced the present St. Luke's, in Old-street-road, when the foun- 
 dation-stone was laid by the Duke of Montague, July 30; the cost, 
 about 40,000/., being defrayed by subscription ; Dance, jun., architect. 
 
 "There are few buildings in the metropolis, perhaps in Europe, that, con- 
 sidering the poverty of the material, common English clamp-bricks, possess such; 
 harmony of proportion, with unity and appropriateness of style, as this building. 
 It is as characteristic of its uses as that of Newgate, by the same architect." Elmet. 
 
 The Hospital was incorporated 1838; the end infirmaries added in 
 1841 ; a chapel in 1842, and open fire-places set in the galleries; when 1 
 also coercion was abolished, padded rooms were provided for violent 
 patients, and an airing-ground set apart for them ; wooden doors were 
 substituted for iron gates, and unnecessary guards and bars removed 
 from the windows. In 1843 were added reading-rooms and a library 
 for the patients, with bagatelle and backgammon boards, kc. By Act 
 9 and 10 Vic., cap. 100, the Commissioners of Lunacy were added to the 
 Hospital direction. In 1848, Sir Charles Knightley "presented an organ 
 to the chapel, and daily service was first performed. The Hospital was 
 next lit with gas; the drainage, ventilation, and supply of water im- 
 proved, by subscription at the centenary festival, June 25, 1851. 
 
HOSPITALS: QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S. 385 
 
 On St. Luke's Day (October 18), a large number of the patients are 
 entertained with dancing and singing in the great hall in the centre of 
 the Hospital, when the officers, nurses, and attendants join the festival. 
 Balls are also given fortnightly. 
 
 The Hospital will accommodate 260 patients. The per-centage of recoveries 
 was, from 1821 to 1830, 47 per cent; 1831 to 1840, 56% ditto; 1841 to 1850, 
 60? ditto : shewing the results of the improved treatment. But the largest per- 
 centage of recoveries, with one exception, was G9, in 1851. Thirty patients, in 
 
 an average period of twelve weeks' treatment, increased in the aggregate 358 Ibs. 
 
 of solid flesh. The number ot patients in the Hospital is usually 200, of whom 
 
 half are incurable. 
 
 Since the year 1684, when Bethlem Hospital admitted into its wards 
 
 seventy-three lunatic patients, and since the establishment of St. Luke's 
 
 in 1750, about 40,000 insane persons have been treated in these two in- 
 titutions. Within the last twenty years, insanity in England has more 
 ban tripled ; and within the same period three large Asylums have 
 een built in the metropolitan counties : Han well, 1831 ; Wandsworth, 
 840 ; and Colney Hatch, 1851, with 1881 feet 6 inches frontage. 
 MARYLEBONE AND PADDINGTON HOSPITAL, Cambridge-place, was 
 
 commenced in 1845, when, June 28, (Coronation-day,) the first stone 
 as laid by Prince Albert ; the site was originally a reservoir of the 
 
 Grand Junction Water-works. The Hospital, opened in 1850, is of 
 ed brick, similar to Chelsea Hospital : it is warmed and ventilated by 
 he circulation of tempered atmospheric air, and the withdrawal of the 
 oul air from the wards ; there are shafts for conveying the food from 
 ;he kitchen and medicines from the laboratory, besides other novel 
 nechanical applications, Hon. architect, Mr. Hopper. 
 
 MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL, Charles-street, facing Berners-street, was 
 jstablished 1745 : the present building was commenced 1755, then in 
 Vlarylebone Fields ; and much enlarged and improved 1848 ; the baths, 
 ooking apparatus, laboratory works, ventilating shaft, and laundry, 
 ire supplied with steam-power. The Cancer- ward, a special addition 
 n this Hospital, was made in 1792, upon a plan by the benevolent John 
 loward, at the sole expense of Mr. Whitbread, M.P., who endowed 
 he ward with 4000Z., that cancer-patients might remain here for life. 
 
 In the Council-room is a large vellum Benefaction-book, wherein are beauti- 
 illy written the names of the Benefactors to the Hospital, from its foundation. 
 he binding is elaborately carved oak, by W. G. Rogers ; and the clasps, corners, 
 nd bosses, are rich ormoulu. This sumptuous volume is protected by an orna- 
 lental iron stand : it is intended to supersede the large black benefaction-boards 
 hich cover the hospital walls. 
 
 OPHTHALMIC (ophthalmos, Gr.,the eye) HOSPITALS were established 
 1 1804 ; that in Moorfields being the first. In the same year, the Royal 
 nfirmary, Cork-street, was founded by Sir Wathen Waller (originally 
 n'pps, the celebrated oculist) submitting to their Majesties a plan 
 ggested by the sufferings he was then endeavouring to relieve among 
 e soldiers and sailors who had returned from the Egyptian Expedi- 
 >n. The late Duke of Wellington was president of the Royal West- 
 Inster Ophthalmic Hospital, Chandos-street, Charing Cross, where 
 .tients are admitted without letters ; since its establishment, 1816, 
 wards of 1700 cases have here been restored to sight by operation for 
 itaract ; the important operations averaging 100 annually. 
 
 ORTHOPAEDIC (orthos, Gr., straight, and paidos, of a child) HOSPITAL, 
 OYAL, 6 Bloomsbury -square, established 1838 for the cure of club- 
 ot and other contractions, by dividing the tendons, &c., was founded 
 f Dr. Little, who introduced the Stromeyerian operation of sub- 
 taneous tenotomy into the Metropolis. 
 
 QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S LYING-IN HOSPITAL was originally estab- 
 
386 CURIOSITIES OF LOISTDON. 
 
 lished in 1752, in St. George's-row, near Tyburn Turnpike, whence it 
 was removed to Bayswater in 1791 ; and in 1810, to its present loca- 
 tion, corner of Harcourt-street, New Road, whereon a commodious 
 and well-ventilated Hospital will be erected. This excellent charitj 
 has been patronised by Queen Charlotte, the Duke of Sussex, Queer 
 Adelaide, and every member of the royal family. It affords an asylum 
 for indigent females during childbirth, as well as to out-patients, espe- 
 cially to the wives of soldiers or sailors ; penitent patients are admitted 
 once, but in no instance a second time. 
 
 ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL, G ray 's-Inn -road, affording free and in- 
 stant relief to the destitute sick, was originally founded 1828, in Gre- 
 ville-street, Hatton Garden : in 1832, 700 cholera patients were admitted 
 here when other Hospitals were closed against them ; a demonstra- 
 tion of the free principle which led to the removal of the Hospital, k 
 
 1843, to the present extensive premises, formerly the barracks of the 
 Light- Horse Volunteers. In 1851, there were relieved 30 ; 929 patients: 
 and since the foundation, 369,611. The establishment of this Hospital 
 was prompted by its founder, Mr. Marsden, a surgeon, having seen, 
 in the winter of 1827, a wretched young woman lying on the steps 
 of St. Andrew's Churchyard, Holborn-hill, after midnight, perishing 
 through disease and famine : she was a stranger in London, without a 
 friend, and died two days afterwards unrecognised ! 
 
 At the Hospital-gate, in Gray's-Inn-road, is a subscription-box, wherein havt 
 been found the following donations by stealth: Dec. 27, 1843, a bank-note foi 
 1001., labelled " A Passer-by," JuneH, 1844,100Z., "Another Passer-by;" NovJ 
 
 1844, WQL, with "Winter is coming on. Bisdatqui cito dot;" Oct. 9, 1850, 501.; 
 June 21, 1851, 201.; and frequently bank-notes of 1C/. and 51. 
 
 ROYAL MATERNITY CHABITY (Office, 17 Little Knight-rider-street, 
 Doctors' Commons) provides advice and good nurses for delivering 
 poor married women at their own homes in Eastern London ; and the 
 cases annually average nearly 3500. 
 
 This institution was originally founded as "the Lying-in Charity," in 1768. 
 The Prince of Wales, when but five years old, being nominated president, a donation 
 of 500J. was made in his name; thenceforth he contributed annually 201.: 
 George IV. became president in 1818; and from the time of his Regency to his 
 death, contributed to the Hospital fund 1800/. 
 
 SEAMEN'S HOSPITAL. (See DREADNOUGHT HOSPITAL-SHIP, p. 260.) 
 
 SMALL-POX AND VACCINATION HOSPITAL, instituted 1746, for those 
 attacked with natural small-pox, and for preventing it by vaccination,* 
 was first opened at Battle Bridge, St. Pancras, 1767; but"this Hospital* 
 and site being required for the terminus of the Great Northern Railwaj 
 Company, the Hospital was rebuilt in a healthy and picturesque situ- 
 ation at the foot of Highgate Hill, at a cost of 20,000/., paid out of the 
 Railway Company's compensation. 
 
 ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, Wellington-street, Southwark, was ori-, 
 ginally a house of alms, founded by the Prior of Bermondseye, in 1213, | 
 adjoining the wall of that monastery. After the surrender in 1539, itj 
 was purchased by the City of London, chartered, in 1551, as one of; 
 the five royal foundations, and opened in 1552. In 1569, the funds 
 were so low that a lease was pawned for 501. The Hospital was rebuilt 
 between 1701 and 1706, with the aid of subscriptions, to which Sir 
 Robert Clayton, the President, contributed 600Z. ; he also bequeathed to 
 the sick poor 2300/. The Hospital was enlarged in 1732 : the wards Fre- 
 deric and Guy are named from their founders, the latter of whom built a 
 pair of iron gates in High-street ; on the two piers were statues of crip- 
 ples, which are preserved to this day. The entrance-gates and lodges 
 with the north and south wings, have been rebuilt of stone ; James Field 
 architect. The Hospital consists of three courts, and colonnades: ir 
 
HOSPITALS : WESTMINSTER HOSPITAL. 387 
 
 the first court is a bronze statue of Edward VI., by Scheemakers, set up 
 by Charles Joyce, Esq., 1737. In the second court is the chapel for 
 patients service daily; the parish church, described at page 163; the 
 hall, and kitchen ; and over the Doric colonnade is the Court-room, with 
 portraits of Edward VI., William III. and Queen Mary, Sir Robert 
 Clayton, and other of the Hospital presidents. In the third court is 
 the statue of Sir Robert Clayton, robed as Lord Mayor, erected in his 
 life-time by the Hospital governors. In a smaller court are the cutting- 
 svard, surgery, bathing-rooms, theatre, and dead-house. There are 
 twenty wards for patients, each superintended by a Sister. The in- 
 jome averages 25,OOOZ. a year : number of beds, 428 ; total number of 
 Datients in 1851, 55,043. 
 
 The site of the new north wing of the Hospital, at the south end of London 
 ridge, was purchased of the City of London for the sum of 40,850/., which was 
 ot considered an extravagant price, though at the rate of 54,8S5/. per acre. The 
 te of two houses adjoining the ahove spot was sold by the Hospital to the City at 
 le enormous rate of 69,93.5Z. per acre ! 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE HOSPITAL, Upper Gower-street, was founded 
 S33, under the presidency of Lord Brougham, in connexion with Uni- 
 ersity College, which the Hospital building faces. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HOSPITAL originated from an infirmary "for reliev- 
 ig the sick and needy," and is the oldest subscription hospital in the 
 ictropolis. It was first established in Petty France, next in Chapel- 
 ,reet, then in James-street ; and the present noble Hospital was built 
 i the Broad Sanctuary, opposite Westminster Abbey, upon a piece of 
 round purchased of the government for 6000?., originally part of the 
 te of the ancient Sanctuary cruciform church, and subsequently of 
 Testminster Market. The Hospital foundation is 6 feet depth of con- 
 "ete ; the design, by the Inwoods, is Elizabethan, with windows temp. 
 'enry VII. ; the central and end oriels, and the embattled porch, are 
 he ; the whole frontage is 200 feet, and the windows number 260 ; the 
 >of, nearly half an acre, is an airing-walk for the patients. The build- 
 g is embattled throughout ; the materials are white Suffolk bricks, 
 iith stone finishings; and among the enrichments are bosses of the 
 Westminster portcullis arms. 
 
 In our larger Hospitals, each ward is presided over by a Sister, who 
 pries into effect the medical instructions, administers medicines, re- 
 |>rts changes of symptoms in patients, and orders their diet, and su- 
 brintends the Nurses. Institutions have been formed for training 
 jsters and Nurses, akin, to the " ministering angels" of monastic life. 
 I The Medical Students of the various Hospitals have long been noted for their 
 regularities; and in 1851, Mr. Henry, a Bow-street magistrate, described them 
 I " the most disorderly class with whom the police and magistrates have to 
 Yo this unqualified stigma has, however, been opposed the assertion, that 
 jilmost every idle dissolute young man who, in a fit of drunken folly, is guilty 
 Isome crime, will, if he wears a decent garb, arrogate to himself a respectability 
 jwhich he has no right, by claiming the title of a medical student." Mr. Albert 
 jiith, himself a "Middlesex man," was the first to sketch the Medical Student's 
 J; in London. (See Punch, vol. ii.) 
 
 I General Hospitals: two founded before 1500, five between 1718 and 1745, and 
 as between 1818 and 1850=12: annual incomes, 142,906^., including voluntary 
 Litributions 31,265^.; Beds, 3,326; In and Out Patients (1848-9), 329,608. 
 -iw's Charities, p. 4. 
 
 I>;PKXSARIES were first established in 1770, when the Royal Dis- 
 \Xtsary was founded in Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate-street. There 
 It upwards of forty Dispensaries in London. 
 
 'Medicine and every other relief under the calamity of bodily diseases, no 
 
 the daily necessaries of life, are natural provisions which God has made 
 
 f our present indigent state, and which He has granted in common to the 
 
388 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 children of men, vrhether they be rich or poor: to the rich by inheritance anc 
 acquisition ; and by their hands, to the disabled poor. Nor can there be anj 
 doubt that Public Dispensaries are the most effectual means of administering 
 sick relief." Bishop Butler. 
 
 HOUNDSDITCH 
 
 Extends from opposite St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street, to St 
 Botolph's, Aldgate. Beaumont and Fletcher call it Dogsditch. 
 
 ' From Aldgate north-west to Bishopsgate lieth the ditch of the City, callec 
 Houndsditch, for that in old time, when the same lay open, much filth (conveyec 
 from the City), especially dead dogs, were there laid or cast." Stow. 
 
 Into this filthy ditch, by command of King Canute, was thrown Edie, th( 
 Saxon, the murderer of his master, Edmund Ironside, after having been drawn b] 
 his heels from Baynard's Castle, and tormented to death by burning torches 
 The ditch was subsequently enclosed with a mud wall, against which was a "fan 
 field,'' with cottasres for poor bed-rid people, and where devout people walket 
 (especially on Fridays) to relieve the bed-ridden, who lay on the ground-floor, a 
 the window, with a clean linen cloth, and a pair of beads, to shew to charitabli 
 passengers that ' ' there lay a bed-rid body unable but to pray only." 
 
 Houndsditch was first paved 1503. Late in the reign of Henry Till 
 a foundry for casting brass ordnance was established here, which drovt 
 the poor bed-rid people out of their cottages ; and upon their site wen 
 built houses and shops for "brokers, joyners, braziers, and such at 
 deal in old clothes, linen, and upholstery." (Strype.) Braziers abouiu 
 here to the present day. Here lived Tench, the joiner, to whom it was 
 sworn on the trial of Hugh Peters, in 1660, that his orders were givei 
 on the scaffold to prepare the block for the beheading of Charles I. 
 and in Rosemary -lane lived Ralph Jones, the ragman, who assista 
 Brandon, the common hangman in the execution. Anthony Munda 1 
 speaks .indignantly of the " unconscionable broking usurers, a* base kirn 
 of vermin, who had crept into Houndsditch;" which, with Long-lane 
 were the Rag Fairs of two centuries since ; and Houndsditch is to thi 
 day the centre of the Jews' quarter. 
 
 Houndsditch was the general name of the different parts of the Cit* 
 ditch. In a chantulary of St. Giles's Hospital, beginning of fifteent) 
 century, Houndesdic and Houndesdich are part of the ditch in th 
 parislTof St. Sepulchre. Howell's Londinopolis shews, by the sam 
 name, parts of the fosse between Ludgate and Newgate ; and b; 
 Barbican. 
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 
 
 Anterior to the reign of Stephen, Houses in London were trail 
 much as they had been in the earlier Saxon' times, almost wholly c 
 wood, roofed with straw and reeds : thus a carpenter is described a 
 "making houses and bowls." Hence the frequent fires; and especiall 
 the great conflagration of 1097, which spread from London Bridge t 
 the church of St. Clement Danes in the Strand. By an assize (Is 
 year of Richard I.) all houses in London were hereafter to be built c 
 stone, with party- walls of the same : but this mandate was rarely com 
 plied with; and'it was not until the reign of Edward IV., when brie 
 was made from the clay of Moorfields, that it occasionally took th 
 place of the timber which had hitherto been used for houses ; reeds wer 
 then replaced by tiles and slates. In two centuries, to gain grounc 
 many stone houses were taken down, and others of timber built i 
 their place ; and it is distinctly stated that London, to the period of th 
 Great Fire of 1666, was chiefly built of chestnut, filled up with plastei 
 After the Great Fire, the houses were rebuilt with brick ; but betwee 
 1618 and 1636 several fine brick houses were erected in Aldersgatt 
 street. Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, and Covent Carder 
 Still, the general form of roof was the high-pitched gable, whole row 
 
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 389 
 
 of which have disappeared in our time, with several specimens of florid 
 plaster and carved wood fronts. A few specimens, however, remain.* 
 
 Aldgate High-street, No. 76, with central bay-windows, enriched 
 brackets, and a projecting penthouse-shop, has panels decorated with 
 the Prince of Wales' feathers, the fleur-de-lis of France, the Thistle of 
 Scotland, portcullis of Westminster, and other armorial bearings. Of 
 this period also is the house No. 17 Fleet-street, already described at 
 page 308. 
 
 Ashburnham House, Westminster, one of Inigo Jones's finest man- 
 sions, is described at page 23. 
 
 Bagnio, the, in Bath-street, Newgate-street, was built by Turkey 
 merchants, and first opened in 1679 (Aubrey), for sweating, rubbing, 
 shaving, hot-bathing, and cupping, after the Turkish model. The 
 cupola-roof and walls neatly set with Dutch tiles, described by Hatton 
 in 1708, exist to this day and is now a cold bath. (See BATHS, p. 32.) 
 
 Bangor House, Shoe-lane, south of St. Andrew's church, is described 
 
 as the palace of the Bishops of Bangor in a roll of 48 Edward III. 
 
 jBeing deserted as an episcopal residence, some mean dwellings were 
 
 built upon the grounds ; yet a garden with lime-trees, and a rookery, 
 
 remained about ninety years ago. The last of the mansion, octangular 
 
 Jind two-storied, was removed in 1828; but is kept in memory by Bent- 
 
 ey's Printing-office, named " Bangor House ;" and by Bangor-court, 
 
 pposite which are some remains of " Oldborne Hall," in Stow's time 
 
 letten out in divers tenements." 
 
 Baumes, or Balmes (from two Spanish merchants so named), stood 
 rest of the Kingsland-road, Hoxton, and was taken down in 1852. It 
 ras built by the Balmeses, about 1540; Sir George Whitmore resided 
 ere occasionally when lord mayor, 1631 ; and on this spot Sir "W. 
 Icton, lord mayor, with the aldermen, &c., waited the arrival of 
 Charles I. on his return from Scotland, Nov. 25, 1641 ; when the royal 
 caches were conducted, by a road formed for the occasion, through 
 Jalmes's grounds to Hoxton, and thence to Moorgate, into the City, 
 he road between Kingsland and Shoreditch being then impassable by 
 the depth and foulness of it." Baumes-march was long a favourite 
 Lrchery and artillery exercise ;f but the ground attached to the house 
 B now the site of De Beauvoir Town, named from the De Beauvoir 
 limily, its owners since 1696. A print of 1580 shews Baumes, with 
 l:s gate-house, farmery, spacious gardens and grounds, avenues of fruit- 
 jrees and stately elms ; and the Italianised brick mansion with its two- 
 'toried roof, moated and approached by a drawbridge; the house and 
 loat were supplied from the ancient well in Canonbury Field. The in- 
 srior of Balmes was rich in carved ceilings, paneling and staircase, 
 I rmorial glass and tapestry. 
 
 | Broohes's Menagerie (subsequently Herring's), taken down in 1851, 
 L T as an old wooden house at the western corner of Brook-street, New- 
 load : it was standing when Tottenhall Fair was in its glory ; and almost 
 le only house between St. Giles's Pound and Primrose-hill was Tot- 
 
 * The remains of Roman London consist chiefly of portions of the City wall, 
 
 i'tmdations of buildings; tesselated pavements, otten of so much beauty as to 
 , mote a corresponding style in the superstructure ; baths, sewers, bronzes, and 
 
 irious ornaments admirable as works of art. A Roman bath, nearly complete, 
 t Jill exists in Strand-lane ; and a Roman hypocaust is preserved beneath the Coal 
 ; jxchange (see p. 282). The remains of the superstructures of Roman London 
 
 jhich have yet been discovered, are, however, unimportant. 
 1 1 t The Robin Hood public-house (now refronted) originally looked over Fins- 
 I Jiry-fields, and was much frequented by the metropolitan archers ; the sign, 
 
 obiti Hood and Little John, in Lincoln-gre' n, formerly swung from a tree before 
 t le door. A few dealers in archery implements, and preservers of animals, have 
 
 igered in the City-road to our day the last relics of the chivalry of Hogsden, 
 
390 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tenhall, a house of entertainment in 1645, on the site of which is th< 
 " Adam and Eve tavern." 
 
 Bulk Shops have only disappeared in our time. In 1846 was taker 
 down an old house south-west of Temple Bar, which is engraved ir 
 Archer's Vestiges, part i. A view in 1795, in the Crowle Pennant, 
 presents one tall gable to the street ; but the pitch of the roof had been 
 diminished by adding two imperfect side gables. The heavy pent: 
 originally traversed over each of the three courses of windows ; it was 
 a mere timber frame filled up with lath and plaster, the beams being ol 
 deal with short oak joints : it presented a capital example of the old 
 London bulk-shop (sixteenth century), with a heavy canopy projecting 
 over the pathway, and turned up at the rim to carry off the rain end- 
 wise. This shop had long been held by a succession of fishmongers 
 among whom was the noted Crockford, who quitted it for "play" ii 
 St. James's (see CLUB-HOUSES, p. 193). Crockford would not permit 
 this house-front to be altered in his lifetime. 
 
 Burnet's (Bishop) House, St. John's-square, Clerkenwell, is now 
 let in tenements, and has an arched thoroughfare to a court of houses 
 built on the site of the garden. In this house Burnet died 1715, and 
 was buried in St. James's church, when the rabble threw dirt anc 
 stones at his funeral procession. The Bishop's house and tomb are en- 
 graved from original drawings in the Mirror, 1837, No. 836. 
 
 Campden House, Kensington, originally approached from the town 
 by an avenue of elms, was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, after- 
 wards Viscount Campden, who purchased the property of Sir Walter 
 Cope; or, traditionally, won it of him "at some sort o"f game." The 
 house is of red brick, with stone finishings, and has a central porch, 
 bay-window once fitted with armorial glass, and flanking turrets with 
 cupolas. The great dining-room, in which Charles II. supped with 
 Lord Campden, has a rich armorial ceiling in stucco, floridly carved 
 wainscot, and a tabernacle mantelpiece, with Corinthian columns and 
 caryatidal figures, finely sculptured. The State Apartments on the 
 first floor include Queen Anne's bed-chamber; and the Globe room, 
 originally a chapel, and communicating with the garden terrace: all 
 the other rooms have richly stuccoed ceilings and marble mantelpieces.: 
 During the Protectorate, the Sequestration Committee sat here. Queen 
 Anne, when Princess of Denmark, resided five years at Campden House 
 with her son the Duke of Gloucester, who kept a regiment of boy-; 
 soldiers here, and had a puppet-theatre built. Lord Lechmere^H 
 lawyer and staunch Whig, lived here when he had his quarrel with Sir. 
 John Guise, ridiculed in Swift's ballad of " Duke upon Duke :" 
 
 " Back in the dark, by Brompton Park, 
 
 He turn'd up thro' the Gore, 
 And slunk to Campden-house so high, 
 
 All in his coach and four. 
 The Duke in wrath call'd for his steeds, 
 
 And fiercely drove them on : 
 Lord ! Lord ! how rattled then thy stones, 
 
 O kingly Kensington !" 
 
 The gardens, in which the wild olive and the caper-tree once flou-| 
 rished, have been much reduced ; but the house retains its original fronts 
 Among the relics are two dogs (supporters of the Campden arms) 
 which formerly surmounted the gateway-piers, and are cleverly sculp- 
 tured. Westward is Little Campden House, built during the Princes; 
 Anne's residence at Campden House : it has an outer arcaded gallery 
 and was once occupied by the Rt. Hon. William Pitt. 
 
 Canonbury Place, Islington, was originally the country-house of th( 
 Priors of St. Bartholomew. (See CANOXBUBY TOWEK, p. 63.) 
 
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 391 
 
 " Canonbury House internally is one of the richest specimens of the archi- 
 tecture of James I. in the neighbourhood of London. The house, or rather the 
 remains, form at the present time several large dwelling-houses ; including a 
 portion of the old great chamber, with a rich ceiling, date 159D, a quaintly carved 
 oak fireplace with statuettes of Mars and Venus draped, and a doorway with bust 
 of an old English gentleman and dame, the Roman mouldings and enriched frieze 
 very fine ; saveral ot'ier rooms are sumptuously carved, and the parlour retains 
 its original decoration." C. J. Richardson, F.S.A. + 
 
 Carey-street, Chancery-lane, corner of Bell-yard, is an Italianised 
 house, with columns, pilasters, and panels, and has an interesting interior. 
 Carlisle House, Carlisle-street, Soho-square, formerly the mansion 
 of the Dowager Lady Carlisle, was built temp. James II. : it has a mar- 
 ie-floored hall and grand decorated staircase ; the rooms are large and 
 ofty, and have enriched ceilings. The mansion originally stood in the 
 midst of a garden, a portion of which remains in the rear ; the " cherry 
 garden" is built upon. The lower walls of Carlisle House are of old 
 English bond, of brilliant red brick ; the leadwork of the cisterns is 
 dated 1669, the year of the creation of the Earldom of Carlisle. The 
 mansion was long tenanted by Angelo, the fencing-master, and is now 
 xxmpied by W. Gibbs Rogers, the carver : in the ball-room the Col- 
 ege of the Freemasons of the Church hold their monthly meetings. 
 
 '' Caxton's House," Westminster, and other old houses in the 
 AJLmonry, are described at p. 4. 
 
 Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate-street, the finest specimen of olden 
 lomestic architecture in the metropolis, is described at p. 238. 
 
 Drury-lane (see page 261) has the Cock and Magpie, a low public- 
 ouse of the seventeenth century, with a paneled house next door, and 
 range of tenements in Little Drury-lane of the same date. These 
 vere then the only houses in the eastern part of Drury-lane, except the 
 nansion of the Drurys. Hither the youths and maidens who on May- 
 lay danced round the May-pole in the Strand, were accustomed to 
 jesort for cakes and ale : Pope has named it as the scene of "the high 
 leroic games devised by dulness to gladden her sons." 
 
 "Dyot's House," Dyot- street, now George-street, St. Giles's, was 
 |he mansion of Richard Dyot, Esq., a vestryman of St. Giles's parish 
 Kmp. Charles II., and was inhabited till our time by his descendant, 
 Philip Dyot, Esq. 
 
 Elizabethan Houses. Among the earliest examples of the Eliza- 
 lethan period was a house in Grub-street, engraved in Smith's Anti- 
 \uities, in which the mouldings, quatrefoil, and other Gothic orna- 
 lents, were combined with the Italianised panels and brackets of a later 
 ate. Some brackets remain in Milton-street. Malcolm, in his Anec- 
 otes, has engraved two Elizabethan houses in Goswell-road, built 
 bout 1550, and standing in 1807 ; with bay-windows, overhanging 
 pper story, and gable : next door, for contrast, is a house built about 
 300, three floors of the former being scarcely equal to two of the latter. 
 
 " The roofs (ceilings) of your houses are so low, that I presume your ancestors 
 ere very mannerly, and stood bare to their wives, for I cannot discern how they 
 mid wear their high-crowned hats." Sir W. Davenant. 
 
 Fowler's House, Islington, fronts Cross-street : a ceiling bears the 
 
 ite 1595 : at the extremity of the garden is a lodge, probably built as 
 
 summer-house by Sir Thomas Fowler the younger, whose arms and 
 
 lie date 1655 are in the wall. Sir Thomas Fowler the elder, who died 
 
 >24, was a juryman on Sir Walter Raleigh's trial. (See INNS, p. 400.) 
 
 Fulwood's Rents, Holborn, has a house temp. James I. (See p. 319.) 
 
 Gray's- Inn-lane, east side, north end, has three Elizabethan houses, 
 
 riginally one, and probably a hostelry on the road to Theobalds : its 
 
 tree stories project over each other upward, the top one being of 
 
392 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 weather-board plastered inside, and the roof having four pointed gables : 
 at the ends of the first and second stories are carved brackets, one 1559. 
 
 Grub-street. In Sweedon's passage, Grub-street, was an ancient 
 timber-built house, traditionally the residence of Sir Richard Whitting- 
 ton, temp. Henry IV. ; and of Sir Thomas Gresham, temp. Elizabeth. 
 The massive timbers were oak and chestnut, the ground-floor chimneys 
 being of stone : it had a boldly projecting staircase, which, with the 
 house, was taken down in 1805, and three small houses were built upon 
 its site, one inscribed " Gresham House, once the residence of Sir Rich- 
 ard Whittington, Lord Mayor 1406, rebuilt 1805." (See Smith's 
 Ancient Topography, p. 41.) 
 
 Holborn. In the volume of MS. drawings by John Thorpe, pre- 
 served in Sir John Soane's Museum, is a sketch of a wooden house 
 described as standing in Thorpe's time at the "water end of Holborn." 
 
 " From the garden you ascend by five steps the enclosed terrace in front of the 
 building; this has, as Thorpe expresses it, a ' terrace overhead:' a small porch 
 leads into the great hall. The kitchen is on the right ; the larder is the small 
 square room leading out of it. The small room in front, on the same side as the 
 kitchen, is the buttery, with cellar under, the small steps conducting down to it. 
 Above the hall is ' the great chamber,' the staircase leading to which opens into a 
 gallery communicating to the rooms of the rest of the building. The square com- 
 partments at the back of the house, represented in plan as staircase and larder, 
 are carried up above the roof as turrets ; a small prospect tower is placed in front 
 of the building." C. J. Richardson, F.S.A. 
 
 Holland House is described at pp. 374-377. 
 
 Hoxton. A few years since there stood in Hoxton Old Town the 
 reputed " oldest house in the metropolis," in taking down which was 
 found a brick dated above 150 years back ; but most of the bricks were 
 of a much earlier period, being deep-red and highly glazed : the door 
 was beautifully carved with the oak and vine, &c. The Parliamentary 
 Survey, No. 78, as reported in Sir H. Ellis 's History of Shoreditch, of 
 which Hoxton is one of the divisions, states that about this spot, during 
 the Interregnum, a house was in the possession of Charles Stuart, 
 some time King of England, in 1653, which was valued at 4/. per annum. 
 
 Kennington Manor-house, a portion of the royal lodging built of 
 brick upon part of the site of the old palace near Kennington-cross, 
 exists to this day. Its last royal tenant was Charles I. when Prince 
 of Wales, Kennington having been an occasional residence of the 
 Kings of England prior to the Conquest. The manor was annexed 
 to the Duchy of Cornwall, temp. Edward III., and was tenanted by the 
 Black Prince. John of Gaunt took refuge here in 1377 from the 
 exasperated Londoners. Henry VII. and Katherine of Arragon resided 
 here ; and James I. settled the manor on Henry Prince of Wales, his 
 eldest son ; and after his decease, 1612, on Prince Charles, afterwards 
 Charles I. The stables of the earlier palace, built of flint and stone, 
 and known as the Long Barn, remained till 1795 ; and fragments of 
 flint, chalk, and rubble-stone walls of the ancient palace are traceable 
 in houses in Park-place. 
 
 Kensington House, nearly opposite the palace-gates, was the resi- 
 dence of the Duchess of Portsmouth, the French mistress of Charles II. 
 Here Elphinstone, the friend of Jortin, Franklin, and Johnson, kept a 
 school from 1776 till 1788 : he is unsparingly ridiculed in Smollett's 
 Roderick Random. The mansion was next a Roman Catholic Boarding- 
 house, where Mrs. Inchbald, the player and novelist, died in 1821. 
 Colby House, facing the Palace-road gates, was built about 1720, for 
 Sir Thomas Colby : it has a painted grand staircase with Herculaneum 
 ceiling, and a small chapel. Kensington National Schools, a stately pile 
 of brickwork, west of the church, were built by Sir John Vanbrugh, 
 who " is singularly fortunate in this design, his lines presenting a re- 
 
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 393 
 
 strained degree of civil architecture, in the middle class of uprights" 
 (John Carter). Here are costumed figures of a charity boy and girl 
 of the last century. 
 
 Hale House, Earl's Court, traditionally the residence of Oliver 
 Cromwell, is dilapidated and desolate ; but a few seventeenth-century 
 decorations remain. Near the West London Cemetery is Coleherne 
 House, temp. Charles I., the property of Sir William Lister ; next of 
 Gen. Lambert, the first President of Cromwell's Council; and in 1820, 
 of the widow of Major-Gen. Sir W. Ponsonby, who fell at Waterloo. 
 
 Lindsey House, Chelsea, west of the old church, was built by Bertie, 
 Earl of Lindsey, upon the site of the mansion of Sir Theodore May erne, 
 physician to James I. and Charles I. In 1751 Lindsey House was 
 purchased by the United Brethren, or Moravians, whose Bishop, Count 
 Zinzendorf, died here in 1760 : in the rear of the house is a burial- 
 ground for the Brethren, with a small chapel ; but their only place of 
 worship in London is the chapel in Fetter-lane (see page 174). Lind- 
 ey House is now five residences : the central one has been tenanted 
 >y Sir I. K. Brunei and son, and Bramah, the engineers : it is now 
 nhabited by John Martin, K.H., the epic painter, who in a summer- 
 louse in the garden has executed a fine fresco. 
 
 Lindsey House, on the centre of the west side of Lincoln's-Inn-fields, 
 as built by Inigo Jones for the above Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, and 
 was for some time the residence of the proud Duke of Somerset : it has 
 i handsome stone fagade, and had formerly vases upon the open balus- 
 trade. At the south-west angle of Lincoln's-Inn-fields is Portsmouth 
 Mouse, built in Inigo Jones's rich style for the Earl of Portsmouth, 
 put now let in chambers. It gives name to Portsmouth-street, where 
 s the Black-Jack public-house, frequented by Joe Miller, and long 
 pown as "the Jump," from Jack Sheppard's leaping from one of its 
 Irst-floor windows, to escape his pursuers. 
 
 Little Moorfields, No. 23 is the King's Arms public-house, with a 
 
 blaster front richly wrought with flowers, and a pair of large scrolls 
 
 urmounted with the Ionic volute. In London Wall was until lately 
 
 house-front temp. Charles I., enriched with groups of foliage and 
 
 gures, and engraved in Lester's Illustrations, 1818. 
 
 Long-lane, Smithfield, has a few houses remaining of Elizabethan 
 ate ; and Cloth Fair has relics of this and a later period. 
 
 Marylebone Manor-house, attached to the Royal Park, was built 
 pip. Henry VIII., and was a palace of Mary and Elizabeth. Here, 
 pout 1703, was established a school of great repute ; the interior had 
 
 beautiful saloon and gallery, in which private concerts were given, 
 j'he house, which stood at the top of High-street, nearly opposite the 
 Id church, was taken down in 1791. South of the Manor-house site was 
 wford House, built specially for the Library and MSS. (Harleian) of 
 
 4 ue Earl of Oxford, now in the British Museum. 
 
 Milborn's Almshouses, Crutched Friars, were built of brick and 
 
 1 mber, in 1535, by Sir John Milborn, lord mayor in 1521, for thirteen 
 
 i pd poor men and their wives, of the Drapers' Company. Over the 
 
 judor gateway is sculptured in stone the Assumption, the Virgin sup- 
 
 brted by six angels in a cloud of glory, with inscription beneath. 
 
 Newcastle House, at the north-west angle of Lincoln's-Inn-fields, 
 Ilis beneath its south wing an arcade over the southern footway of 
 
 treat Queen-street. It was originally Powis House, built for the 
 I jarquis of Powis, about 168G, by Captain William Winde, a scholar of 
 
 ' ebbe, a pupil of Inigo Jones. It was bought by Holies, Duke of 
 
 lewcastle, and inherited by his nephew, who led the Pelham adrninis- 
 [ation under George II. 
 
 I " Old City of London Workhouse," Bishopsgate-street Without, 
 
394 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the first workhouse built in London, dates from 1680 : in the court- 
 room is a portrait of Sir Robert Clayton, the first governor. The 
 house was originally partitioned into the steward's side, for poor 
 children ; and the keeper's side, for " rogues and vagabonds." 
 
 Post-office, Lombard-street, formerly the General Post-office, was 
 originally built by " the great banquer," Sir Robert Viner, on the site 
 of a note'd tavern destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. Here Sir Robert 
 kept his mayoralty in 1675. Strype describes it as a very large and 
 curious dwelling, with a handsome paved court, and behind it " a yard 
 for stabling and coaches." 
 
 Queen-street, Lincoln s- Inn- fields, has on the south side some early 
 brick houses, built by Inigo Jones and his pupil TVebbe; those on the 
 south being charged with the fleur-de-lys, in compliment to Queen 
 Henrietta-Maria, daughter of Henry IV. of France, after whom the 
 street was named : it is said to have been designed for a square, and 
 built at the charge of the Jesuits, on the site of the common path which 
 anciently separated Aldewych Close from the northern division of 
 Aldewych, extending to Holborn. The street was originally entered 
 from the west by "the Devil's Gap," a narrow passage; altered 1765. 
 
 " In the last century Queen-street vras the residence of many people of rank. 
 Among others was Conway House, the residence of the noble family of that name; 
 Paulet House, belonging to the Marquis of Winchester ; and the house in which 
 Lord Herbert of Cherbury finished his romantic career. The fronts of certain 
 houses, possibly of those or others of the nobility, are distinguished by brick 
 pilasters and rich capitals." Pennant. 
 
 Howel writes to Lord Herbert, 13th July, 1646 : " God send you joy of your 
 new habitation, for I understand your Lordship is removed from the King'f-stiem 
 to the Queen's." Familiar Letters. 
 
 Here lived Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary general, when he 
 took possession of Holland House, Kensington (see page 375). Also, 
 Sir Godfrey Kneller ; Hudson, Sir Joshua Reynolds's master ; and Sir 
 Robert Strange, the engraver. Lord Herbert's house is near the east 
 corner of Wild-street. One of Howel's Familiar Letters is addressed 
 "To the R. H. the Earl Rivers, at his house in Queen-street." 
 
 " May 26th, 1671. The Earl of Bristol's House, in Queen-street, Lincoln's- 
 Inn-fields, was taken for the Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, and i 
 furnished with rich hangings of the King's. It consisted of seven rooms on a 
 floor, with a long gallery, gardens, &c." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 Schomberg House, Pall Mall, Nos. 81 and 82, south side, was built 
 about 1650, when Pall Mall was planted with 140 elm-trees, " standing 
 in a very regular and decent manner on both sides of the walk;" 
 and the house is described as " a fair mansion inclosed with a gar- 
 den." In 1660, at the Restoration, it was occupied by several Court 
 favourites; and subsequently by Edward Griffin, Treasurer of the 
 Chamber, and ancestor of the present Lord Braybrooke. In 1670 
 Schomberg House and the adjoining mansions had gardens which ex- 
 tended to St. James's Park, and had earthen mounds or terraces, which 
 looked over the green walks to the Palace. 
 
 Next door, on the site of the present No. 79, (tenanted by the Society for the i 
 Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts,) lived Nell Gwyn, after her removal 
 from a house at the east end of the north side of Pall Mall. Evelyn records a , 
 walk made March 2, 1671, in which he attended Charles II. through St. James's 
 Park, where he both saw and heard " a familiar discourse between the King and 
 Mrs. Nellie, as they called an impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden 
 on a terrace at the top of the wall, and the King standing on the green walk under 
 it." Part of the terrace or mound on which Nelly stood may still be seen under ; 
 the park wall of Marlborough House ; and among Mr. Robert Cole's Nell Gwyn 
 papers (bills sent to Nelly for payment) tlu;re is a charge for this very mound. 
 (Cunningham's Story of Nell Gicyn, p. 119.) This scene has been admirably 
 painted by E. M. Ward, A.R.A. 
 
HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 395 
 
 Here lived the Duke of Schomberg, who was killed at the Battle of the 
 
 Boyne, 1G90, and after whom the house is named. It was beautified for 
 
 Frederick, third and last Duke of Schomberg, for whom Peter Berchett 
 
 painted the grand staircase with landscapes in lunettes. In 1699, the 
 
 house had nigh been demolished by a mob of disbanded soldiers ; and 
 
 in the Gordon riots of 1780, attempts were made to sack and burn it. 
 
 William Duke of Cumberland, "the hero of Culloden," died here in 1760. 
 
 John Astley, the painter and "the Beau," who lived here many years, 
 
 >artitioned the mansion into three, and placed the bas-relief of Painting 
 
 ,bove the middle doorway. Astley also built on the roof a large painting- 
 
 oom, his " country-house," looking over the Park, to which and some 
 
 ither apartments he had a private staircase. After Astley 's death, 
 
 3osway the portrait-painter tenanted the centre. Gainsborough occu- 
 
 >ied the west wing from 1777 to 1788, when he died in a second-floor 
 
 oom : he sent for Sir Joshua Reynolds, and was reconciled to him ; 
 
 hen exclaiming, " We are all going to heaven, and Vandyke is of the 
 
 ompany," he immediately expired. Part of the house was subsequently 
 
 iccupied by Robert Bowyer for his " Historic Gallery ;" and by Dr. 
 
 jiraham, the empiric, for his " Celestial Bed" and other impostures, 
 
 idvertised by two gigantic porters stationed at the entrance, in gold- 
 
 aced cocked hats and liveries. The house is a good specimen of the 
 
 ed-brick seventeenth-century mansion. It was partly occupied by 
 
 3 ayne and Foss, with their valuable stock of old books, until 1850. 
 
 Another portion is tenanted by Harding and Co., silk-mercers, who 
 
 lave rebuilt the eastern wing in elegant Italian style. 
 
 Shaftesbury House, originally 'ihanet House, on the east side of 
 Lldersgate-street, was built by Inigo Jones for the Tuftons, Earls of 
 ?hanet ; whence it passed into the family of Anthony Ashley Cooper, 
 Sari of Shaftesbury. In 1708 it returned to the Thanet family ; in 1720, 
 >ecame an inn; in 1734, a tavern; 1750, a Lying-in Hospital; and in 
 .849, a Dispensary. The fa$ade is of red brick, decorated with eight 
 blasters, but painted stone-colour. Nearly opposite was London 
 ouse, originally Peter House, of handsome brick : it was the town- 
 nansion of the Bishop of London after the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 Southwark retained in High-street some of its olden house-fronts, 
 ilmost to the rebuilding of London Bridge. In 1830 were removed 
 wo houses with enriched plaster decoration and armorial ensigns of 
 he 16th century ; and the writer remembers, about 1809, the demolition 
 >f a long range of wood and plaster and gable-fronted houses on the 
 vest side of High-street. 
 
 " The Spanish Ambassador's House," eastward of Houndsditch, in 
 3ravel-lane, was taken down in 1644. This was one of the "garden- 
 louses," which Stow describes as built amidst "fair hedgerows of 
 ilm-trees, with bridges and easie stiles to pass over into the pleasant, 
 ields." More than a century later Strype adds: "There was a house 
 )n the west side, a good way in the lane, which, when I was a boy, 
 rvas commonly called the Spanish Ambassador's House, who, in King 
 James's reign, dwelt here; and he, I think, was the famous Count Gon- 
 emar." The house was built temp. James I., in a courtyard, with a 
 ne gateway, upon a flight of steps, approached by " Seven-Step Alley :" 
 ; had three stories, with pilasters between the windows, the lower 
 ooms were oak paneled, and had richly-carved fireplaces and stucco 
 eilings ; and on the first floor was a large chamber, with an elabo- 
 ately-traceried ceiling in Italian taste, charged with Latin mottoes 
 nd the arms of the founder, Robert Shaw, and those of the Vintners' 
 ./ompany, of which he was master : here, too, was a superb fireplace, 
 f coloured marbles and carved oak (see Archer's Vestiges, part v.). 
 Staple Inn, Holborn, has three overhanging stories, the upper one 
 
396 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 with four pointed gables; the ground-floor has modern shop-fronts, 
 but the central arched entrance to the Inn has the original therm 
 pilasters of the Jacobean style. 
 
 Star-Chamber and Exchequer Buildings, the, stood on the eastern 
 side of New Palace-yard ; and adjoining northward was an arched gate- 
 way(Henry III.), communicating by stairs with the Thames. These build- 
 ings, bay- windowed and gabled, were taken down between 1807 and 
 1836 : the last remaining were the offices for trials of the Fix, and print- 
 ing Exchequer bills. In an apartment here the Court of Star Cham- 
 ber sat from temp. Elizabeth until its abolition, 1641 : over a doorway 
 was the date 1602, E. R. and an open rose on a star. It had a richly- 
 carved Tudor-Gothic oak ceiling, with moulded compartments, roses, 
 pomegranates, portcullises, and fleurs-de-lis ; and it had been gilt and 
 coloured, though it had not a trace of gilt stars. The mantel- piece 
 was decorated with fluted columns, and the chimney-opening was a 
 Tudor arch. Drawings of the whole were made in 1836. Behind the 
 Elizabethan paneling were found three Tudor-arched doorways, and 
 under the staircase a Gothic wood-hole entrance, its spandrels orna- 
 mented with roses; proving this to have been the original Camera 
 Stellata, newly fitted temp. Elizabeth. The Chamber has been restored 
 at Leasowes Castle, Shropshire. 
 
 The Strand retains a few old house-fronts : as west of the Adelphi 
 Theatre; and immediately east of Strand-lane are three houses of the 
 reign of Charles I. retaining a few of their classic mouldings, cornices, 
 and window pediments. No. 273 has a fine old dormer-window. 
 
 Tradescant's House, South-Lambeth-road, a large brick edifice, 
 nearly opposite Spring-lane, was the residence of the Tradescants, 
 father and son : and of Elias Ashmole, who " added a noble room to it, 
 and adorned the chimney with his arms, impaling those of Sir William 
 Dugdale, whose daughter was his third wife." The house, with its 
 Museum, was called " Tradescant's Ark." (See GARDENS, p. 323.) 
 
 Warwick House, Cloth Fair, Smithfield, built temp. Elizabeth, was 
 bought with the Priory of St. Bartholomew, and the right to hold the 
 Fair, by Sir Robert Rich, in 1544, and devolved to his descendants, the 
 Earls of Warwick and Holland; whence that "uproarious rabble- 
 ment," called Lady Holland's Mob, which assembled on the eve of St. 
 Bartholomew to proclaim the Fair (see p. 30). 
 
 Weather-boarded house-fronts, in part plastered, are of old date: 
 there was, until 1853, a row of these wood tenements on the east side 
 of Milford-lane, Strand ; and up a passage in Bell-yard, Fleet-street, a 
 little north-west of a house temp. Charles I., is a square court entirely 
 of weather-board and plaster, bespeaking the inflammable nature of 
 London before the Great Fire of 1666. Other buildings of this kind, 
 but of earlier date, may be seen near St Giles's Church, Cripplegate. 
 
 Several examples of Old London Houses are engraved and described 
 in the Builder, Nos. 486, 489, and 494, and 515. 
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 
 
 Of Olden Inns, up gateways, and consisting of rooms for refection 
 below, and long projecting balustraded galleries above, leading to the 
 chambers time and change have spared a few interesting specimens. 
 
 Angel, Islington, (actually in St. James's, Clerkenwell,) once a busy 
 resort of travellers on the Great North Road, is reputed to have been 
 established upwards of 200 years : it was rebuilt in 1819. The old 
 inn-yard was nearly quadrangular, with double galleries, supported by 
 plain columns, and" pilasters carved with carvatid and other figures. 
 (See Pugin's Views in Islington and Pentonville, 1819.) A coloured 
 drawing of this old inn-yard hangs in the present coffee-room. 
 
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 397 
 
 Angel, St. Clement's, Strand, retains its gables and portions of covered 
 galleries, with an old lattice-fronted attic passage. Data of three 
 centuries since also attest its antiquity : Bishop Hooper, the venerated 
 martyr of the Reformation, upon his second committal to the Fleet 
 Prison in 1553, refusing to recant his opinions, was condemned to be 
 burnt in January 1555. It was expected that he would have accom- 
 panied Rogers, a prebendary of St. Paul's, to the stake ; but Hooper 
 was led back to his cell, to be carried down to Gloucester, to suffer 
 among his own people. Next morning he was roused at four o'clock, 
 and being committed to the care of six of Queen Mary's Guard, they 
 took him, before it was light, to the Angel Inn, St. Clement's, then 
 standing in the fields ; and thence he was taken to Gloucester, and there 
 burnt with dreadful torments on the 9th of February. 
 
 In the Public Advertiser, March 28, 1769, is the following advertisement: 
 
 " To be sold, a Black Girl, the property of J. B , eleven years of age, -who 
 
 is extremely handy, works at her needle tolerably, and speaks English perfectly 
 well ; is of an excellent temper and willing disposition. Inquire of Mr. Owen, at 
 the Angel Inn, behind St. Clement's Church in the Strand." 
 
 Ape, Philip-lane, London "Wall: here were formerly two galleried 
 inns, the Ape and the Cock, of great antiquity : the sign of the former 
 is preserved on the house No. 14. 
 
 Baptist's Head public-house, east side of St. John's-lane, Clerken- 
 well, just without the Priory-gate, is a fragment of an Elizabethan man- 
 sion, and until its renovation had an overhanging front grotesquely 
 carved, and lit by large bay-windows, with painted glass : some of the 
 interior scroll-paneling remains. This house was the residence of Sir 
 Thomas Forster, Knt., one of the judges of the Court of Common 
 Pleas ; he died in 1612, and his arms, sculptured upon the chimney- 
 jpiece of the present tap-room, have been collated in Cromwell's Clerk- 
 \enwell. The sign may have been chosen in compliment to Sir Baptist 
 Hicks ; and the public-house is said to have been frequented by Samuel 
 Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith in their transactions at Cave's printing- 
 bffice over St. John's Gate, which see. 
 
 Bell, Great Carter-lane, Doctors' Commons: hence, Oct. 25, 
 
 [1598, Richard Quiney addressed to his " loveing good ffrend and coun- 
 
 pryman, Mr. Wm. Schackespere," (then living in Southwark, near the 
 
 Bear-garden,) for a loan of thirty pounds ; which letter we have seen in 
 
 [the possession of Mr. R. Bell Wheler, at Stratford-upon-Avon : it is 
 
 believed to be the only existing letter addressed to Shakspere. The 
 
 \Bell inn has disappeared, but has given name to Bell-yard. 
 
 Bell, Warwick-lane, Newgate-street : here Archbishop Leighton, 
 llhe steady advocate of peace and forbearance, died 1684. 
 
 " He often used to say, that if he were to choose a place to die in, it should be 
 Ln inn ; it looking like a pilgrim's going home, to whom this world was all as an 
 an, and who was weary of the noise and confusion in it. * * * * And he 
 jbtained what he desired." Burnet's Own Times. 
 
 Bell Savage, or Belle Sauvage, Ludgate-hill, is a specimen of the 
 (layers' inn-yard before our regular theatres were built. The landlord's 
 joken, issued between 1648 and 1672, bears an Indian woman holding 
 f bow and arrow. The sign is thus traced : 
 
 , "As for the Bell Savage, which is the sign of a savage man standing by a 
 
 !ell, I was formerly very much puzzled upon the conceit of it, till I accidentally 
 
 bll into the reading of an old romance translated out of the French, which gives 
 
 ' h account of a very beautiful woman who was found in a wilderness, and is 
 
 1 died in the French 'la Belle Sauvage,' and is everywhere translated by our 
 
 buntrymen the Bell Savage." Spectator, No. 28. 
 
 The sign, however, was originally a bell hung within a hoop, as 
 roved by a grant temp. Henry VI., wherein John French gives to 
 ban French, widow, his mother, " all that tenement or inn called 
 
398 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDON. 
 
 Savage's Inn, otherwise called the Bell on the Hoop." In the London 
 Gazette, 1676, it is termed " an antient inn." Stow affirms it to have 
 been given to the Cutlers' Company by one Isabella Savage; but their 
 records state by Mrs. Craythorne (see CUTLERS' HALL, p. 362). Here 
 Sir Thomas Wyat's rebellion was stopped. 
 
 " And he (Wyet) himself came in at Telmple Bar, and) soo downe alle Flet- 
 strete, and soo un-to the Belle Savage. And then was his trayne (attacked at) the 
 commandment of the erle of Pembroke, and sartayne of hys men slayne. And 
 whan (he saw) that Ludgatte was shutt agayne hyin, he departed, saynge, ' I have 
 kepte towche,' and soo went (back) agayne ; and by the Tempulle barre he was 
 tane, and soo brought by watter unto the (Tower) of London." Chronicle of the 
 Grey Friars of London. 
 
 Fuller, in his Church History, states that after "Wyat's adherents had forsaken 
 Mm, he flung himself on a bench opposite the Bell Savage, and began to 
 repent the rashness of his enterprise, and lament his folly. He was summoned 
 by an herald to submit, which he agreed to do, but would yield only to a gentle- 
 man ; and afterwards surrendered to Sir Maurice Berkeley. 
 
 In Bell-Savage-yard lived Grinling Gibbons. " where he carved a 
 pot of flowers which shook surprisingly with the motion of the coaches 
 that passed by." Walpole. 
 
 Blossoms,' Lawrence-lane, Cheapside, " corruptly Bosoms Inn, 
 hath to sign ' St. Laurence the Deacon/ in a border of blossoms or 
 flowers/' which, says the legend, sprung up " on the spot of his cruel 
 martyrdom." This was one of the inns hired for the retinue of 
 Charles V. on his visit to London in 1522, when " xx. beddes and a 
 stable for ix. horses" were ordered here. 
 
 Bolt-in- Tun, Fleet- street, Xo. 64, in a grant to Ihe White Friars 
 in 1443, is termed " Hospitium vocatum Le Boltenton." In AVhitefriars- 
 street, No. 10, is the Black Lion, a small inn-yard with exterior wooden 
 balustraded gallery, &c. 
 
 Bull, Bishopsg'ate, in its galleried yard, accommodated audiences 
 for our early actors, before the building of licensed theatres. Tarlton 
 frequently played here. 
 
 Bull and Mouth, St. Martin's-le-Grand, now the Queen's Hotel, 
 was rebuilt in 1830 : the centre is of stone, and has boldly sculptured a 
 Bull and Mouth, above which are the bust of Edward YI. and the arms 
 of Christ's Hospital, to which the ground belongs. The old inn was in 
 Bull -and- Mouth-street ; and the sign is corrupted from Boulogne 
 Mouth, in commemoration of the destruction of the French flotilla at > 
 the mouth of Boulogne harbour, by Henry VII I., in 1544. 
 
 Clerkenicell. In St. John-street is the Cross Keys, where the car- 
 rier of Daintree lodged in 1637; Hatton mentions the Three Cups, 
 near Hicks's Hall. Here also are the Golden Lion and the Windmill} 
 and in "NVoodbridge-street was the Red Bull inn, the yard once the , 
 pit of the Red Bull Theatre. (See CLERKENWELL, p. 187.) 
 
 Coach and Horses, at the entrance to Bartholomew Close, is a por- | 
 tion of the ancient priory, probably the hospitium, at the end of the , 
 north cloister: the first floor has an arched roof and 16th-century j 
 cornice ; the tap-room has an Early-English window ; and the beer- j 
 cellar, a crypt, has a 12th-century clustered column. Of St. Bartho- 
 lomew's, also, exist the prior's house, (see p. 240.) and the hall, with 
 an ancient timbered roof, now used as a tobacco-manufactory. Close 
 by is the monastery kitchen, from which a subterranean passage, in i 
 our time, communicated with the church : it has two paneled rooms, 
 one with a vaulted roof and carved mantel-piece. (See Archers Ves- I 
 tiges of Old London, part v.) 
 
 Cock, in Tothill-street, is probably the most ancient domestic 
 edifice in "Westminster: it is built entirely of timber, and at the back is 
 a long inn-yard, with heavy timber sheds. The upper part of the 
 
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 399 
 
 house consists of one story, in which are several rooms on different 
 levels, one of which remains in its original state, a curious specimen of 
 an early timbered room, being entirely of chestnut-wood : the ascent to 
 these rooms is by a narrow twisted staircase. The exterior is very pic- 
 turesque, although plastered and painted. The house is entered by a 
 descent of three steps : in the parlour is a massive oak carving of the 
 Adoration of the Magi, of Flemish work, well executed and painted 
 to the life. Another piece of carved work, more in the high German 
 manner, an alto-relievo of Abraham offering up Isaac, is preserved in an 
 adjoining room. The Cock is said to have been frequented by the 
 ilders of Henry VII.'s Chapel ; and there is a further tradition that it 
 as the pay-table of the workmen at the building of the Abbey, temp. 
 enry III. In 1845, Mr. Archer found in the kitchen the old sign of 
 e Royal Arms, now placed upon the front of the house ; and which, 
 th the Flemish carving and ancient bedchamber, are engraved in the 
 '.stiges of Old London, part vi. From this house started the first 
 sford coach ; and a portrait of its original driver is shewn here. 
 Cross Keys, Gracechurch- street: here Banks exhibited his wonder- 
 horse, Marocco ; the spectators being mostly in the galleries. This 
 jn, and the Cross Keys in "Wood-street, are derived from the adjoin- 
 churches of St. Peter. 
 
 Elephant and Castle, Newington Butts, was a noted stage-coach 
 use until the railway times; and was originally a low-built roadside inn, 
 th outer gallery, a drawing of which hangs in the present tavern, 
 ^joining was a large sectarian chapel, inscribed in gigantic capitals, 
 'HE HOUSE OF GOD!' held by the dupes of Joanna Southcott, whose 
 earns and visions were painted upon the walls. 
 
 Four Swans, Bishopsgate-street Without, is perhaps the most per- 
 ;t old London inn, its galleries being entire. Hobson, the Cam- 
 dge carrier, put up here. 
 
 " This memorable man stands drawn in fresco at an inn (which he used) in 
 hopsgate-street, with an hundred-pound bag under his arm, with this inscrip- 
 n upon the said bag : 
 
 ' The fruitful mother of a hundred more.' " Spectator, No. 509. 
 
 George and Slue Boar, Holborn, is associated with a great event in 
 r history : here was intercepted Charles I.'s letter, by which Ireton 
 
 covered it to be the King's intention to destroy him and Cromwell, 
 rich discovery brought about Charles's execution. Nearly opposite 
 e George and Slue Boar was the Red Lion, the largest inn in Hol- 
 rn ; and where the bodies of Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshawe were 
 pried from Westminster Abbey, and next day dragged on sledges to 
 'burn a retributive coincidence worthy of note. In old St. Giles's 
 mrch was " a red lyon painted in glasse, given by the inneholder of 
 s Red Lyon." (Aubrey). 
 
 George, Snowhill, is a relic of the time when this hill was the only 
 jhway from Holborn-bridge eastward; the house appears to have 
 jn an extensive inn for carriers at a very early date, and 
 
 " St. George that swing'd the dragon, 
 And sits on his horseback at mine hoste's door," 
 
 mgh much dilapidated, is a good specimen of a carved-stone sign. 
 I! Gerard's Hall, Basing-lane and Bread-street, Cheapside, replaced 
 i| ancient Hall of the Gisors, the fine Norman crypt of which remained 
 f I a wine-cellar ; but, with the superstructure, was removed in 1852, 
 
 ii'orming New Cannon-street. (See CRYPTS, p. 241.) 
 
 1 1 Green Man, Oxford-street, was formerly the Farthing Pye-house, 
 
 a the top of Portland-row, kept by Price, the noted rolling-pin and 
 
400 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 salt-box player : it was then a low public-house, much frequented by 
 company from masquerades at the Pantheon. 
 
 Half-way House, Kensington-road, opposite the site of the building 
 for the Great Exhibition of 18-51, and near the Prince of Wales's Gate, 
 Hyde Park, was removed in 1846 at an expense of 3050?., in addition 
 to the purchase of the fee. 
 
 Holborn Hill. The Rose has disappeared within our recollection: 
 from this inn, Taylor the "Water-poet started in the Soiithampton coach 
 for the Isle of Wight, 19th October, 1647, while Charles I. was there : 
 
 " We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses, 
 And merrily from London made our courses, 
 We wheel'd the top of the heavy hill call'd Holborn, 
 (Up which hath been full many a sinful soul borne,) 
 And so along we jolted past St. Giles's, 
 Which place from Brentford six or seven miles is." 
 
 Taylor's Travels from London to the Isle of Wight, 1647. 
 
 The Old Sell, Holborn, bears the arms of Fowler, of Islington, viz. 
 azure, on a chevron, argent, between three herons, as many crosses 
 formee gules. These arms also occur on a building supposed to have 
 been the lodge of Fowler's house in Islington, of which remains exist. 
 
 King's J.rms,Leadenhall-street, No. 122: in the reign of William III., 
 Sir John Fen wick and others met here to plan the restoration of James IL 
 Oxford Arms, Warwick-lane, Newgate-street, was the inn of Ed- 
 ward Bartlet, Oxford carrier, who removed here, after the Great Fire 
 of 1666, from the Swan at Holborn-bridge. 
 
 Paul Pindar's Head, corner of Half-moon-alley, No. 160 Bishopsgate- 
 street Without, was the mansion of Sir Paul Pindar, the wealthy mer- 
 chant, contemporary with Sir Thomas Gresham. The house was built 
 towards the end of the 16th century, with a wood-framed front and 
 caryatid brackets, and the principal windows bayed, their lower fronts 
 enriched with panels of carved work. In the first-floor front room is 
 a fine original ceiling in stucco, in which are the arms of Sir Paul Pin- 
 dar. In the rear of these premises, within a garden, was formerly a 
 lodge, of corresponding date, decorated with four medallions, contain- 
 ing figures in Italian taste. (See p. 322.) 
 
 Piccadilly Inns. At the east end were formerly the Slack Sear 
 and White Sear (originally the Fleece], nearly opposite each other. 
 The Slack Sear was taken down 1820. The White Sear remains ; it oc- 
 curs in St. Martin's parish-books 1635 : here Chatelain and Sullivan, the 
 engravers, died; and Benjamin West, the painter, lodged the first night 
 after his arrival from America. Strype mentions the White Horse Cel- 
 lar in 1720 : and the booking-office of the New White-Horse Cellar is 
 to this day in " the cellar." The Three Kings stables gateway, No. 
 75, has two Corinthian pilasters, stated by D'Israeli to have belonged 
 to Clarendon House : " the stable-yard at the back presents the fea- 
 tures of an old galleried inn-yard, and it is noted as the place from 
 which General Palmer started' the first Bath mail-coach." (J. W. Ar- 
 cher : Vestiges, part vi.) The Hercules' Pillars (a sign which meant ; 
 that no habitation was to be found beyond it) stood a few yards west 
 of Hamilton-place, and is mentioned as one extremity of London by 
 Wycherly, in 1676. Here Squire Western "placed his horses" when 
 he arrived in London with the fair Sophia (see Tom Jones); here 
 " the horses of many of the quality stood ;" and it became the scene of 
 fashionable dinner-parties of officers of the army, often headed by the 
 Marquis of Granby. The Hercules' Pillars, and another roadside inn 
 the Triumphant Car, were standing about 1797, and were mostly fre- 
 quented by soldiers. Two other Piccadilly inns, the White Horse and 
 Half-moon, have given names to streets. 
 
INNS OF OLD LONDON. 401 
 
 Pied Bull, Church-row, Islington, traditionally the residence of Sir 
 
 Walter Raleigh, and in the Elizabethan style, was taken down in 1826-7. 
 
 The late front was modern ; but the parlour (the original dining-room) 
 
 had an elaborately-carved chimney-piece, with figures of Faith, Hope, 
 
 and Charity; and a stuccoed celling, with personifications of the Five 
 
 lenses. In a window were painted the arms of Sir John Miller, who 
 
 ived here 1634 ; and a bunch of green leaves above the shield was po- 
 
 tularly regarded as the tobacco-plant introduced by Raleigh. 
 
 Queen's Head, Lower-street, Islington, was a still more perfect Eli- 
 abethan house than the above. The walls were strong timber frame- 
 vork, filled in with laths and plaster; the three stories projected, and 
 lie windows were supported by carved brackets ; the entrance-porch 
 eing ornamented by caryatides and Ionic scrolls. The interior had 
 aneled wainscot, and stuccoed ceilings of rich design. The house has 
 een rebuilt, and portions of the woodwork are preserved. 
 
 Pindar ofWaltefield, Gray's-Inn-road, was a roadside inn in Au- 
 rey's time, 1685, who mentions the yellow-flowered Neapolitan bank- 
 resses growing there, as well as on the ruins of London, after the Great 
 ""ire of 1666. This plant is the London Rocket mentioned at p. 57. 
 
 Rose of Normandy, on the east side of High-street, Marylebone, 
 uilt in the 17th century, is the oldest house in the parish, and has the 
 riginal exterior, staircase, and balusters. In the rear was formerly a 
 owling-green, enclosed with walls set with fruit-trees and quickset 
 edges, " indented like town-walls." 
 
 Saracen's Head. Snow-hill (actually in Skinner-street), and of old 
 without Newgate," was in Stow's time " a fair and large inn for the 
 e^eipt of travellers." 
 
 Saracen's Head, Friday-street, Cheapside, adjoined St. Matthew's 
 3hurch, and No. 5, said to have been the dwelling-house of Sir Chris- 
 opher Wren. The inn consisted of three floors with open galleried 
 ronts, besides the ground-floor : it was taken down in 1844 ; and upon 
 ;s site, extending nearly to Old Change, large Manchester warehouses 
 vere erected. There was also a Saracen's Head, No. 5 Aldgate : it 
 vas once a common London sign ; which Selden thus illustrates : 
 
 ; When our countrymen came home from fighting with the Saracens, and 
 rere beaten by them, they pictured them with huge, big, terrible faces (as you 
 till see the sign of the Saracen's head is), when in truth they were like other 
 Q. But this they did to save their own credit." Table-Talk. 
 
 Southwark Inns. Stow enumerates here " many fair inns for 
 eceipt of travellers, by these signs: the Spurr, Christopher, Bull, 
 l^ueene's Head, Tabarde, George, Hart, King's Head," &c. Of these 
 ne most ancient is the Tabard (now Talbot), No. 75 High-street, 
 Ipposite the Townhall. The tabard is a jacket or sleeveless coat, 
 ; r orn in times past by noblemen, with their arms embroidered on it, 
 ut now only by heralds, as their coat of arms in service. " This was 
 ne hostelry \vhere Chaucer and the other pilgrims met together, and 
 ith Henry Baily, their hoste, accorded about the manner of their 
 urney to Canterbury." (Speght, 1598.) 
 
 " Befell that in that season, on a day 
 At Southwark at the Tabard as 1 lay, 
 Readie to wander on my Pilgrimage 
 To Canterburie with devout courage, 
 At night was come into that hosterie 
 Well nine-and-twenty in a companie, 
 Of sundrie folke, by adventure yfall 
 In fellowship, and pilgrimes were they all, 
 That toward Canterburie wouden ride: 
 The chambers and the stables weren wide, 
 And well we weren eased at the best," &c. Chaucer. 
 
402 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Within the Tabard was also the lodging of the Abbot of Hide, by 
 "Winchester, which, with the inn, was repaired, and the latter enlarged 
 by Master J. Preston. Upon the brestsummer beam of the gateway 
 facing the street was formerly inscribed : " This is the inne where Sir 
 Jeffry Chaucer and the nine-and-twenty pilgrims lay in their jour- 
 ney to Canterbury, anno 1383." This was painted out in 1831, and was 
 originally inscribed upon a beam across the road, whence swung the 
 sign, removed in 1763, when the inscription was transferred to the 
 gateway. The sign was changed about 1676, when, says Aubrey, " the 
 ignorant landlord or tenant, instead of the ancient sign of the Tabard, 
 put up the Talbot, or dog!" The buildings of Chaucer's time have 
 disappeared, but were standing in 1602 : the oldest remaining is of 
 the age of Elizabeth ; and the most interesting portion is a stone- 
 coloured wooden gallery, in the front of which is a picture of the Can- 
 terbury Pilgrimage, said to be painted by Blake : immediately behind 
 is " the Pilgrims' Room" of tradition, but only a portion of the ancient 
 hall. The gallery formerly extended throughout the inn buildings; 
 the inn facing the street was burnt in the Great Fire of Southwark : 
 "this house," says Aubrey, " remaining before the fire 0/1676, was an 
 old timber house, probably coeval with Chaucer's time ;" it is shewn in 
 the oldest view of the Tabard extant, in Urry's Chaucer, 1720.* 
 
 The other inns named by Stow remain, except the Christopher; 
 but they have mostly lost their galleries and other olden features. 
 The King's Head sign was within our recollection a well-painted half- 
 length of Henry VIII. At the Hart lodged Jack Cade on his arrival 
 in Southwark, July 1, 1450 ; " for," says Fabyan, " he might not be suf- 
 fered to enter the Citie :" again, of Cade's rebels, " at the "SVhvt Harte 
 in Southwarke one Hawaydine of Sent Martyns was beheddyd." 
 (Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London.) 
 
 Spread Eagle, Gracechurch-street, is mentioned by Taylor the 
 Water-poet in his Carrier's Cosmographie, 1637. 
 
 Swan with Two Necks, Lad-lane, now Gresham-street, was long the 
 head coach-inn and booking-office for the north. The sign has been 
 referred to a corruption of two nicks, or the Vintners' Company's 
 swan-marks on the bill; but this popular notion is discountenanced 
 by Mr. Kempe, F.S.A.: are the two necks an heraldic monstrosity? 
 
 " The carriers of Manchester doe lodge at the Two-Neck'd Swan in Lad- 
 lane," (Taylor's Carrier's Cosmographie, 1637), originally Lady's-lane. 
 
 Three Cups, Aldersgate-street, is mentioned by Hatton ; with the 
 same sign in St. John-street, near Hicks's Hall ; in Bread-street, near 
 the middle. Beaumont and Fletcher have "the Three Cups in St. 
 Giles's ;" and Winstanley mentions Richard Head at the same sign in 
 Holborn, making verses over a glass of Rhenish. 
 
 White Hart Tavern, Bishopsgate-street, taken down in 1829, bore 
 on the front the date 1480: it was three-storied, with overhanging 
 upper floor, and occupied the site of " a faire inne for receipt of tra- 
 vellours, next unto the parish church of St. Buttolph" (Stow). 
 
 White Hart, corner of Welbeck-street, was long a detached public 
 house, where travellers customarily stopped for refreshment, and to 
 examine their fire-arms, before crossing the fields to Lisson-green. 
 The land westward to the bourn (whence the parish, now Marylebone, 
 was named) was a deep marshy valley : here was Fenning's Folly, upon 
 the top of which has been built a fishmonger's; the shop, now level 
 with the street, having been the Folly upper story. 
 
 White Horse, Fetter-lane, was formerly the great Oxford house. 
 (See FETTER-LANE, page 291.) 
 
 * Taylor the Water-poet mentions another Tabard inn, "nee re the Conduit" 
 in Gracechurch-street. 
 
INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 403 
 
 Whitefriars Inns. Among the lands and tenements in St. Dun- 
 stan's occur the Bore's Hede, rented at 4/. ; le Bolte and Tonne, 47. ; 
 and le Blake Sivanne, 4:1. ; all in Fleet-street. 
 
 Yorkshire Stingo. New-road, has been celebrated for a century and 
 a quarter, and appears in a plan dated 1757 : here was held annually, on 
 May 1, a fair, until suppressed as a nuisance. 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 
 
 The hostels or abodes of the practisers and students of the law 
 before the reign of Edward II. were called Inns of Court, because 
 their inhabitants belonged to the King's Court, first noticed on the 
 Placita Rolls, 10th Richard I. One of these, Johnson's Inn, is said to 
 have been at Dowgate ; another in Fewter's (Fetter) lane ; and a third 
 in Paternoster-row. The Serjeants and Apprentices (of the Law) then 
 each had his pillar in St. Paul's church, where he heard his client's case : 
 
 " A Serjeant of the law both ware and wise, 
 That often had yben at the Peruse." Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. 
 
 And in the reign of Charles I., upon the making of Serjeants, they 
 went to St. Paul's in their formalities, and eJtose their pillars. 
 
 Sir John Fortescue, Chief- Justice to Henry VI., enumerates four Inns 
 of Court the Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and 
 i Gray's Inn and ten Inns of Chancery r the former frequented by the 
 isons of nobility and wealthy gentry; and the latter by merchants and 
 (others, who had not the means of paying the greater expenses (about 
 120 marks per annum) of the Inns of Court. The first were called 
 wpprenticii nobiliores , the latter apprenticii only. On the working- 
 idays they applied themselves to the study of law ; on the holydays to 
 jholy Scripture. They also learned singing and all kinds of harmony, 
 liancing, and other noblemen's pastimes. The only punishment for mis- 
 ieeds was expulsion (as is the case now), which was greatly dreaded. 
 
 In 1634, the four Inns of Court gave a grand masque to Charles I. 
 md Queen Henrietta-Maria at Whitehall. (See page 272, where, for 
 Seldon, read Selden.) 
 
 The Court of Star Chamber, however, took care of their morals by 
 lesiring the principals of the Inns of Court and Chancery not to suffer 
 he students to be out of their houses after six o'clock at night, " with- 
 out very great and necessary causes, nor to wear any kind of weapon ;" 
 ,nd the Court records prove the Star Chamber to" have committed to 
 'he Tower the Earl of Surrey, Sir Thomas Wyatt, and young Pickering, 
 or breaking windows, and eating flesh in Lent. 
 
 In the reign of Philip and Mary it was ordained by all the four Inns of 
 'ourt, "that none except knights and benchers should wear in their doublets 
 r hose any light colours, save scarlet and crimson; nor wear any upper velvet 
 ap, or any scarf or wings in their gowns, white jerkins, buskins, or velvet shoes, 
 ouble cuffs in their shirts, feathers .or ribbons in their caps ; and that none 
 aould wear their study gowns in the City any farther than Fleet-bridge or 
 lolborn-bridge ; nor, while in Commons, wear Spanish cloak, sword and buck- 
 :r, or rapier, or gowns and hats, or gowns girded with a dagger on the back." 
 -Dugdale's Origines Judicialex. 
 
 The students in the reign of Henry VI. were : 4 Inns of Court, each 
 00 = 800 ; 10 Inns of Chancery, each 100 = 1000 : total, 1800. In 
 350 there were in the four Inns of Court upwards of 4000. 
 
 The Temple and other Inns of Court are closed on Holy Thursday, 
 ) prevent the parochial processions passing through, which might 
 rtablish a public thoroughfare. The two Temples and Gray's Inn 
 -e extra-parochial, i. e. pay no poor-rates and maintain their own 
 oor ; but Lincoln's Inn has not entirely that exemption. 
 
404 CURIOSITIES OF LON*DOX. 
 
 THE TEMPLE lies between Fleet-street and the Thames, north and 
 south; and Whitefriars and Essex-street, east and west: divided by 
 Middle Temple-lane into the Inner and Middle Temple, each having its 
 hall, library, and garden, quadrangles, courts, &c. Originally there 
 was also the Outer Temple, comprising Essex House and gardens. 
 
 The ancient hostels existed until 1346 (20th Edward III.)? when the 
 Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem (to whom the forfeited 
 
 estates of the rival brotherhood of the Templars had been granted by 
 the Pope) demised the magnificent buildings, church, gardens, "and all 
 the appurtenances that belonged to the Templars in London," to cer- 
 tain students said to have removed thither from Thaive's Inn, Holborn, 
 in which part of the town the Knights Templars themselves had resided 
 before the erection of their superb palaces on the Thames. In this New- 
 Temple, " out of the City and the noise thereof, and in the suburbs," 
 between the King's Court at Westminster and the City of London, 
 the studious lawyers lived in quiet, increasing in number and import- 
 ance; so that, although the mob of Wat Tyler's rebellion plundered the 
 students, and destroyed almost all their books and records (" To the 
 Inns of Court! down with them all!" Jack Cade), it became necessary 
 to divide the Inn into two separate bodies, the Hon. Societies of the 
 Inner and Middle Temple ; having separate halls, but using the same 
 church, and holding their houses as tenants of the Knights Hospitallers 
 until the Dissolution by Henry Till., and thenceforth of the Crown 
 by lease. In the sixth year of James I. the two Temples were granted 
 by letters patent to the then Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Recorder 
 of London, and others, the bankers and treasurers of the Inner and 
 Middle Temple, which, by virtue of this grant, are held to this day 
 by an incorporated society of the " students and practisers of the laws 
 of England." 
 
 The INNER TEMPLE is entered from Fleet-street by a gateway, built 
 5th James I., beneath No. 17 Fleet-street (see p. 308), by Inner Temple- 
 lane: at No. 1 lived Dr. Johnson from 1760 to 1765; the door-case is 
 inscribed, " Dr. Johnson's Staircase." At the foot of the lane is the 
 magnificent western doorway of the church (described at pp. 161-3); 
 and westward are the cloisters, built by Wren after the fire of 1678, 
 which fire Titus Oates pretended to the Council was " a contrivance." 
 
 " Some gentlemen of the Inner Temple would not endeavour to preserve the 
 goods which were in the lodgings of absent persons, nor suffer others to do it, 
 because,' they said, ' it was against the law to break up any man's chamber !' " 
 Lord Clarendon's Own Life, p. 355. 
 
 Upon the broad terrace facing the garden are the Library (contain- 
 ing Bacon's History of the Alienation Office, in MS.), and the Par- 
 liament Chamber in the Tudor style, completed by Smirke, R.A. in 
 1835 ; adjoining is the Hall, built upon the site of a structure of the 
 age of Edward III. Here are full-length portraits of Coke and Little- 
 ton ; and an emblematic Pegasus, by Sir James Thornhill. Here dinner 
 is served to the members of the Inn daily during term-time; the 
 masters of the bench dining on the state or dais, and the barristers 
 and students at long tables extending down the hall to the carved 
 screen at the western end. On grand days are present the judges, 
 who dine in succession with each of the fourlnns of Court. 
 
 ' At the Inner Temple, on certain grand occasions, it is customary to pass huge 
 silver goblets (loving cups) down the table, filled with a delicious compositio 
 immemorially termed 'sack,' consisting of sweetened and exquisitely flavoured 
 white wine: the butler attends its progress to replenish it, and each student is 
 restricted to a tip. Yet it chanced not long since at the Temple, that, thougl 
 the number present fell short of seventy, thirty-six quarts of the liquid were 
 consumed \" Quarterly Review, 1836, No. 110. 
 
INNS OF COURT: MIDDLE TEMPLE. 405 
 
 The gentlemen of the Inner Temple were of old famed for their 
 plays, masques, and revels, and sumptuous entertainments. Christmas, 
 Halloween, Candlemas, and Ascension-day, were anciently kept with 
 great splendour in the Hall. In 1GG1 Charles II. dined here, and 
 was received with twenty violins, dinner being served by fifty gentle- 
 men of the society in their gowns. Next year the Duke of York and 
 Prince Rupert were admitted members. For these feasts, the master 
 of the revels arranged the dancing and music : after the play, a barrister 
 sang a song to the judges and Serjeants; and dancing was commenced 
 by the judges and benchers round the sea-coal fire. This dance is sa- 
 tirised in Buckingham's witty play of the Rehearsal; and the revels 
 have been ridiculed by Dr. Donne in his Satires, Prior in his Alma, 
 and Pope in the Dunciad : 
 
 " The judge to dance, his brother serjeant calls." 
 
 Sir Christopher Hatton, with four other students of the Inner Temple, wrote 
 the play of Tancred and Gismund, which, in 1568, was acted by that Society 
 before the Queen. Sir Christopher wrote the fourth act, signed "Composuit 
 C/ir. Hatton :" it was first printed in 1592, and there is a copy among the Garrick 
 Plays in the British Museum. 
 
 The last revel in any of the Inns of Court was that held Feb. 2, 1733, in the 
 Inner Temple Hall, in honour of Mr. Talbot, a bencher, having the Great Seal 
 idelivered to him. A large gallery built over the screen was filled with ladies ; 
 land music in the little gallery at the upper end of the Hall played all dinner- 
 jtime. After dinner, began the play Love for Love, and the farce of The Devil to 
 \Pay, by actors from the Haymarket. After the play, the Lord Chancellor, the 
 Master, Judges, and Benchers retired into their Parliament Chamber; in half an 
 hour they returned to the Hall, and led by the Master of the Revels, formed a ring, 
 ind danced, or rather walked, round the fire-place, according to the old cere- 
 aony, three times; the ancient song, accompanied with music, being sung by one 
 'ony Aston, dressed in a bar-gown. This was followed by dancing, in which the 
 adies from the gallery joined; then a collation was served, and the company 
 eturned to dancing. The Prince of Wales was present. 
 
 Among the eminent members were Audley, Lord Chancellor to 
 Henry VIII. ; Nicholas Hare (who built Hare-court), Master of the 
 Soils to Queen Mary ; Littleton and Coke (in the reign of James I. the 
 Temple was nicknamed " my Lord Coke's shop") ; Sir Christopher 
 flatten, Selden, Heneage Finch, Judge Jeffreys, and Sir "William 
 Pollett ; and the poets Beaumont and Cowper. Speght's statement 
 jhat Chaucer studied here is much disputed. Among the Readers was 
 "the judicious Hooker," of whom, in 1851, a memorial bust was placed 
 It the south-west angle of the choir of the Temple Church. 
 
 "The view from the Temple Gardens, when, on the opposite side of 
 he river, the eye ranged over the green marshes and gradually rising 
 round to the Surrey hills, and the rich oak and beech woo'ds that 
 lothed them, must have been beautiful." (Pearce's Inns of Court.) 
 'he public are admitted to the Inner Temple Garden, about 3 acres, 
 .n summer evenings from G to 9 : it is already described at p. 321. To- 
 ards its south-eastern corner are the New Paper Buildings, of red 
 rick and stone, erected 1848, by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., with over- 
 inging oriels and angle turrets^ assimilating to Continental examples 
 "the Tudor style. 
 
 ; The MIDDLE TEMPLE, west of the lane, is entered from Fleet- 
 reet by a red-brick and stone-fronted gate-house, built by Wren, 
 1G84, " in the style of Inigo Jones, and very far from inelegant" 
 lalph). It occupies the site of the gate-house erected by Sir Amias 
 wlet, as a fine imposed by Wolsey, whose prisoner he was ; and which 
 s garnished with cardinal's hats and arms to appease " his old un- 
 nd displeasure." Abutting on the garden (see page 321) is Middle 
 2mple Hall, built 1562-72, in the treasurership of Plowden, the jurist: 
 
406 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 it is 100 feet long, 40 feet wide, and upwards of 60 feet in height, and 
 has a fine open timber roof, which omits the principal arched rib, and 
 multiplies the pendants and smaller curves; it is very scientifically 
 constructed, and contains a vast quantity of timber. There is also a 
 Renaissance carved screen and music-gallery, dight with Elizabethan 
 armour and weapons ; on the side windows are emblazoned the 
 arms of eminent members, as also on the great bay-windows, on 
 the dais or state; above hang portraits of Charles I. and II.; 
 James II. when Duke of York; William III., Queen Anne, and 
 George II. : the central portrait, by Vandyke, of Charles I. on horse- 
 back, is claimed as an original, as are also the same portraits in 
 Windsor and Warwick Castles. Around are imitative bronze busts 
 of the twelve Caesars ; and on the dais, marble busts of Lords Eldon 
 and Stowell, by Behnes. The oaken tables extend from end to end : 
 " they cut their meat on wooden trenchers, and drink out of green 
 earthen pots" (Hatton, 1708). In this noble hall was performed 
 Shakspeare's Twelfth Night, as recorded in the table-book of John 
 Manningham, a student of the Middle Temple : Feb. 2, 1601(2). At 
 our feast we had a play called 'Twelfth Night, or what you will.' "- 
 " It is yet pleasant to know that there is one locality remaining where 
 a play of Shakspere was listened to bv his contemporaries, and that 
 play Twelfth Night:' (Charles Knight: Pictorial Edit. Shakspere.) 
 The Middle Temple feasts were sumptuous : Evelyn describes that of 
 1688 " so very extravagant and great, as the like had not been seen 
 at any time ;" he condemns the revels as "an old but riotous custom." 
 Aubrey was admitted 1646; here and at Trinity College, Oxford, he 
 "enjoyed the greatest felicity" of his life. Among his "Accidents:" 
 " St. John's Night, 1673, in danger of being run through with a sword 
 by a young templar, at Burges' chamber in the Middle Temple." (Brit- 
 ton's Memoir of Aubrey, pp. 14, 19.) Ashmole was called to the bar 
 in the Middle Temple, in 1660. (See page 309.) 
 
 Among the eminent members were Plowden, the jurist ; Sir Walter 
 Raleigh ; Sir Thomas Overbury ; John Ford, the dramatist ; Sir 
 Edward Bramston, who had for his chamber-fellow Mr. Edward 
 Hyde (afterwards Lord Chancellor Clarendon) ; Bulstrode Whitelocke; 
 Lord Keeper Guildford; Lord Chancellor Somers; Wycherley and Con- 
 greve ; Shadwell and Southerne ; Sir William Blackstone ; Dunning, 
 Lord Ashburton ; Lord Chancellor Eldon and Lord Stowell; Edmund 
 Burke ; Richard Brinsley Sheridan; and the poets Cowper and Moore. 
 Oliver Goldsmith had chambers in Garden-court, at the window of 
 which he loved to sit and watch the rooks in Temple Garden ; Gold- 
 smith also lived in Brick-court, No. 2, second floor, over the chambers 
 of Blackstone, then finishing vol. 4 of his Commentaries. 
 
 Sun-dials. There remain three dials, with mottoes: Temple-lane, " Pereunt 
 et imputantur;" Essex-court, "Vestigia nulla retrorsum;" Brick-court, "Time 
 and tide tarry for no man :" in Pump-court and Garden-court are two dials without 
 mottoes; and in each Temple Garden is a pillar dial. Upon the old brick house 
 at the east end of Inner Temple-terrace, removed in 1S28, was another dial, with 
 this quaint inscription : " Begone about your business." 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN, on the west side of Chancery -lane, occupies the site 
 of the palace of Ralph Neville, Bishop of Chichester, and Lord High 
 Chancellor to Henry III. ; and of the ancient monastery of Black Friar; 
 in Holborn, granted to Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who built 
 thereon his town -house, or inn ; soon after whose death, in 1312, it be 
 came an Inn of Court, named from him Lincoln's Inn ; when also the 
 greater part of the estate of the see of Chichester was leased to stu- 
 dents of the law. (See CHANCERY-LANE, p. 70.) The Earl of Lincoln 
 garden, with a pond or vivary for pike, is noticed at p. 320. 
 
INNS OF COURT : LINCOLN'S INN. 407 
 
 The precincts of Lincoln's Inn comprise the old buildings, about 
 500 feet frontage in Chancery-lane, erected between the reigns of 
 Henry VII. and James I. The Gatehouse, a fine specimen of Tudor 
 brick-work, was built mostly at the expense of Sir Thomas Lovell, 
 " double reader" and treasurer of the Society. .The entrance is an 
 obtusely-pointed arch, originally vaulted, between two four-storied 
 square towers. The bricks and tiles used in the Gatehouse and Hall 
 were made from clay dug from a piece of ground on the west side of the 
 Inn, and called the Coneygarth, " well stocked with rabbits and game." 
 
 Over the Gatehouse arch are painted and gilt the royal arms of King 
 Henry VIII. within the garter, and crowned, having on the dexter side the 
 arms of Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln ; [and on the sinister side the arms and 
 quarterings of Sir Thomas Lovell, K.G. ; beneath, on a riband, 3nno Sflllt. 1518. 
 Lower down is a tablet denoting an early repair, inscribed : " Insigniahsec refecta 
 et decorata Johanne Hawles Armig. Solicitat. General. Thesaurario 1695." The 
 original doors of oak, put up 6 Eliz. 1564, still remain. In the court on the 
 west is the ancient Hall (the oldest structure in the Inn), and the old kitchen, 
 now chambers; on the north is the Chapel (described at p. 170); and in the 
 centre are the two Vice-Chancellors' Courts, built 1841. Spilsbury'siiwco/w's Inn. 
 
 This and the three other courts of chambers were chiefly built temp. 
 James I. At No. 13, from 1645 to 1G50, lived John Thurloe, Secre- 
 tary of Oliver Cromwell. In these chambers, it is said, was dis- 
 cussed early in 1659, by Cromwell and Thurloe, Sir Richard Willis's 
 plot for seizing Charles II : in the same room sat Thurloe's assistant, 
 young Morland, at his desk, apparently asleep, and whom Cromwell 
 would have dispatched with his sword, had not Thurloe assured him 
 that Morland had sat up two nights, and was certainly fast asleep : 
 he, however, divulged the plot to the king, and thus saved Charles's 
 life. The narrative is given by Birch in his Life of Thurloe, but rests 
 upon questionable evidence. Here was discovered in the reign of 
 "William III. a collection of papers, concealed in a false ceiling of the 
 apartment: they form the principal part of Dr. Birch's "Thurloe State- 
 j Papers." There is a tradition that Cromwell had chambers in or near 
 !the Gatehouse, but his name is not in the registers of the Society: 
 jhis son Richard was admitted a student 23 Charles II. 
 
 Sun-dials. On two of the old gables are, 1. A southern dial, restored in 1840, 
 jwhich shews the hours by its gnomon from 6 A.M. to 4 P.M., and is inscribed, 
 "Ex hoc momento pendet aeternitas." 2. A western dial, restored in 1794, the 
 (Right Hon. William Pitt Treasurer, and again [restored in 1848, from the dif- 
 ferent situation of its plane, only shews the hours from noon till night ; inscrip- 
 tion, " Qua redit, nescitis horam." 
 
 The Old Hall, rebuilt 22 Henry VII. 1506, occupies the site of the 
 (original Hall, and has a louvre on the roof, date 1552, and an embattled 
 (parapet ; opposite the entrance, at the south end, is the old kitchen. 
 jThe " goodly hall" is about 71 feet in length and 32 in breadth ; height 
 about equal to the breadth. It has on each side three large three-light 
 windows, with arched and cusped heads ; and a great oriel, transomed, 
 vith arched head and cusps : at each end the room was lengthened 10 
 *eet in 1819, when the open oak roof was removed, and the present in- 
 xmgruous coved plaster ceiling substituted. At the lower end is a 
 jriassive screen, erected in 1565, grotesquely carved, and emblazoned 
 .vith the full achievements of King Charles II., James Duke of York, 
 Prince Rupert, the Earl of Manchester, Lord Henry Howard, and 
 Lord Newport, date Feb. 29, 1671 : at the end of the Hall, in panels, 
 ire the arms of distinguished members of the Society, including Lords 
 Vlansfield, Loughborough, Ellenborough, Brougham, &c. On the dais 
 s the seat of the Lord Chancellor. The commons of the Society were 
 leld here until the building of the New Hall. 
 
 Among the earliest distinguished members of Lincoln's Inn were, 
 
408 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Sir John Fortescue, temp. Henry VI. ; Sir Thomas More, who removed 
 here from New Inn; Lambard and Spelman, the antiquaries; the 
 learned John Selden ; Noy, Attorney-General to Charles I. ; Lenthall, 
 the Cromwellian Speaker ; and the great Lord Chancellor Egerton. 
 
 In this ancient Hall were held all the revels of the Society, their masques and 
 christmasings ; when the benchers laid aside their dignity, and dancing was 
 enjoined for the students, as conducive " to the making of gentlemen more fit for 
 their books at other times" (Dugdale's Origines); and by an order 7th of James I. 
 "the under-barristers were, by decimation, put out of commons, for example's 
 sake, because they had not danced on the Candlemas-day preceding, when the 
 judges were present." Of Christmas 1661 Pepys writes : " The king (Charles II.) 
 visited Lincoln's Inn to see the revells there; there being, according to an old 
 custome, a prince and all his nobles, and other matters of sport and charge." 
 Here were present Clarendon, Ormond, and Shaftesbury, at the revels of Hale ; 
 Ley, and Denham the poet ; and the gloomy Prynne standing by. At these enter- 
 tainments the Hall cupboard was set out with the Society's olden plate, which 
 includes silver basins and ewers, silver cups and covers, a silver college-pot for 
 festivals, and a large silver punch-bowl with two handles. 
 
 In 1671 Charles II. made a second visit, with his brother the Duke of York, 
 Prince Rupert, and the Duke of Monmouth, who were entertained in the Hall, 
 and admitted members of the Society, and entered their names in the admittance- 
 book, which contains also the signatures of all members from the reign of Eliza- 
 beth to the present time. Sir Matthew Hale entered here student in 1629: 
 he bequeathed a large collection of Mss. to the Library. 
 
 Not many years ago it was the custom at Lincoln's Inn for one of the 
 servants, attired in his usual robes, to go to the threshold of the outer door about 
 twelve or one o'clock, and exclaim three times, " Venez manger !" when neither 
 bread nor salt was upon the table. 
 
 New Square, southward of the ancient buildings, was completed in 
 3697, by Mr. Henry Serle, a bencher of the Inn : in the centre was for- 
 merly a Corinthian column, with a vertical sun-dial ; and at the base 
 were four Triton jets-d'eau : the area was enclosed and planted in 
 1845. In the reign of Charles II. this was open ground, known as 
 Little Lincoln's Inn Fields, or Fickett's Fields : it is not part of the Inn. 
 
 The Stone Buildings, at the north-east extremity of the Inn, was 
 partly built by Sir Robert Taylor, and was completed by Hardwick in 
 1845: the architecture is beautiful Corinthian. This is only part of a 
 design, in 1780, for rebuilding the whole Inn ; the drawings"for which, 
 in the possession of the Society, are by Sir John Leach (Master of the 
 Rolls), originally a pupil of Sir Robert Taylor. 
 
 The Gardens were much curtailed by the building of the New Hall 
 and Library ; when disappeared " the walks under the elms," cele- 
 brated by Ben Jonson. The garden was enlarged, and the terrace- 
 walk on the west was made, in 1663 : 
 
 " To Lincoln's Inn, to see the new garden which they are making, which will 
 be very pretty, and to the walk under the chapel by agreement." Pepys's Diary. 
 
 Into Lincoln's Inn walks Isaac Bickerstaff sometimes went instead of the 
 tavern (Toiler, No. 13); and a solitary walk in the garden of Lincoln's Inn was a 
 favour indulged in by several of the benchers, Isaac's intimate friends, and grown 
 old with him in this neighbourhood (Taller, No. 100). 
 
 The ruined gamester (Tafler, No. 13) in the morning borrows half-a-crown 
 of the maid who cleans his shoes, "and is now gaming in Lincoln's-Inn Fields 
 among the boys for farthings and oranges, until he has made up three pieces; 
 and then he returns to White's, into the best company in town." 
 
 Among the officers of the Society is a " Master of the Walks." 
 (See GARDENS, page 320.) And, in 1662, was revived the ancient 
 custom of electing a Lord- Lieutenant, and Prince of the Grange. 
 
 On the western side of the garden, almost on the site of the Coney- 
 garth, are the New Hall and Library, a picturesque group, finely 
 situated for architectural effect, in the late Tudor style (temp. Henry 
 VIII.), having a corresponding entrance-gate from Lincoln's-Inn 
 Fields; architect, Philip Hardwick, R.A. The foundation-stone was 
 
INNS OF COURT : LINCOLN'S INN. 409 
 
 dd April 20, 1843: the hall is arranged north and south, and the 
 
 brarv east and west ; the two buildings being connected by a vesti- 
 
 ule, flanked by a drawing-room and council-room. The materials are 
 
 3d bricks, intersected with black bricks in patterns, and stone dress- 
 
 igs. The south end has a lofty gable, inscribed, in dark bricks, " P. H." 
 
 Philip Hardwick), and the date 1843 ; flanked on each side by a square 
 
 >wer, battlemented ; beneath are shields, charged with lions and 
 
 lilrines, the badges of the Society : between the towers is the great 
 
 indow of the Hall, of seven lights, transomed, and the four-centred 
 
 :*ch filled with beautiful tracery. On the apex of the gable, beneath a 
 
 mopied pinnacle, is a statue of Queen Victoria ; Thomas, sculptor. 
 
 he side buttresses are surmounted by octagonal pinnacles. The 
 
 )of is leaded, and in its centre is an elegant louvre, surrounded by 
 
 bnder pinnacles bearing vanes ; the capping has crockets and gurgoyles, 
 
 id is surmounted by a vane with direction-points in gilded metal- 
 
 ork the whole very tasteful. The entrance to the Hall is at the 
 
 mth-east tower, by a double flight of steps to the porch, above which 
 
 e the arms of the Inn. Above is the clock, of novel and beautiful 
 
 ign, with an enriched pedimental canopy in metal-work. 
 
 The central building, the entrance to the Library and Great Hall, has 
 
 d oriels, and an octagonal embattled crown or lantern, filled with 
 
 "nted glass, and reminding one of the octagon of Ely Cathedral. 
 
 >m the esplanade is the entrance by flights of steps to a porch, the 
 
 )le bearing the lion of the Earl of Lincoln holding a banner; and at 
 
 apex of the great gable of the library roof is a circular shaft, sur- 
 
 unted by an heraldic animal supporting a staff and banner. The 
 
 >rary has large end oriels, of beautiful design, and five bay-windows 
 
 the north side; the lights being separated by stone compartments, 
 
 h boldly sculptured with heraldic achievements of King Charles II., 
 
 nes Duke of York, K.G., Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, K.G. (all 
 
 tors of the Society), and Albert Edward Prince of Wales. The 
 
 tresses dividing the bays are terminated by pillars, surmounted by 
 
 aldic animals. At the north-west angle of this front is an octagonal 
 
 1-turret. On the western front, towards Lincoln 's-Inn Fields, the 
 
 stered chimneys have a beautiful effect : they are of moulded red 
 
 ck, resembling those at Eton College and Hampton Court Palace. 
 
 e bosses, gurgoyles, and armorial grotesque and foliated ornaments 
 
 oughout the building are finely sculptured. 
 
 Entering by the southern tower, the corridor is arranged on the 
 in of the college halls of the Universities, and has a buttery-hatch, 
 II stairs leading to the vaulted kitchen, 45 feet square and 25 feet high, 
 1th one of the largest fire-places in England ; adjoining are cellars for 
 0'- hundred pipes of wine. 
 
 JFrom the corridor, through a carved oak screen, yon enter the 
 IjU : length, 120 feet ; width, 45 feet ; height to the apex of roof, 62 
 Ip. In size it exceeds the halls of the Middle Temple, Hampton 
 lurt Palace, and Christ -church, Oxford ; but is exceeded in length 
 the hall of Christ's Hospital, which is 187 feet. The upper part of 
 I screen serves as the front of the gallery, between the arches of 
 llich, upon pedestals, in canopied niches, are costumed life-size figures 
 these eminent members of the Society : Lord Chief- Justice Sir 
 Itpthew Hale; Archbishop Tillotson, one of the preachers of Lincoln's 
 |||; Lord Chief- Justice Mansfield; Lord Chancellor Hardwicke; 
 op Warburton, one of the preachers; and Sir William Grant, 
 of the Rolls. The sides of the Hall are panelled with oak, and 
 ice is enriched with gilding and colours. The five large stained- 
 windows on either side contain, in the upper lights, the arms, 
 and mottoes of distinguished members of the Society, chrono- 
 
410 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 logically arranged, from 1450 to 1843; and the lower divisions are 
 diapered with the initials " L. I." and the milrine. Above the windows 
 is a cornice enriched with colour and gilding. 
 
 The roof is wholly of oak, and is divided into seven compartments 
 by trusses, each large arch springing from stone corbels, and having 
 two carved pendants (as in Wolsey's Hall at Hampton Court) at the 
 termination of an inner arch, that springs from hammer-beams project- 
 ing from the walls. These pendants are illuminated blue and red, and 
 gilt, and they each carry a chandelier to correspond. Between the 
 wall trusses is a machicolated cornice, paneled and coloured. 
 
 On the northern wall, above the dais paneling, is the picture of 
 Paul before Felix, painted in 1750 by Hogarth, and removed from a 
 similar position in the Old Hall.* Mrs. Jameson describes this picture as 
 curiously characteristic, not of the scene or of the chief personage, but 
 of the painter. St. Paul, loaded with chains, and his accuser Tertullus, 
 stand in front ; and Felix, with his wife Drusilla, is seated on a raised 
 tribunal in the background; near Felix is the high-priest Ananias. 
 The composition is good ; the heads are full of vivid expression wrath, 
 terror, doubt, attention ; but the conception of character most ignoble 
 and commonplace. (Poetry of Sacred Art.) At the opposite end of 
 the hall is a noble marble statue, by Westmacott, of Lord Erskine, 
 Chancellor in 1806. 
 
 On either side of the dais, in the oriel, is a sideboard for the upper 
 or benchers' table ; the other tables, ranged in gradation, two cross- 
 wise and five along the hall, are for the barristers and students, who 
 dine here every day during term : the average number is 200; and of 
 those who dine on one day or other during the term, " keeping com- 
 mons," is about 500. 
 
 The western oriel window contains, in the upper lights, the armorial hearings 
 of Ralph Neville, Bishop of Chichester; Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln; William 
 de Haverhyll, Treasurer to King Henry III. ; Edward Sulyard, Esq., by whom the 
 inheritance of the premises of Lincoln's Inn was transferred to the Society in 
 labO; whose arms are also here motto: " Longa professio est pacis jus." In 
 the middle of the window are the arms of King Charles II. within the garter, and 
 surmounted by the crown, with the supporters and motto; also the arms of 
 James Duke of York and of Prince Rupert. On the other side, the quarrels of 
 the whole window are diapered, like the other windows of the hall, with the 
 milrine and L. I. The oriel window, on the eastern side, contains all the stained 
 glass removed from the old hall, consisting of the armorial insignia of noblemen, 
 legal dignitaries. &c. All the heraldic decorations, with the exception of the 
 eastern oriel, are by Mr. Willement. Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, pp. 104-5. 
 
 From the dais of the Hall large folding-doors open into the ves- 
 tibule, east of which is the Council-chamber; and west, the Drawing- 
 room : the stone chimney-pieces are finely sculptured. In the Drawing- 
 room are portraits of Justice Glanville, 1598 ; Sir John Granville, 
 Speaker of the House of Commons, 1640; Sir Matthew Hale, 1671, by 
 M. Wright (acquired by the Societv, with his collection of Ms- 
 Richard Ransford, Lord Chief- Justice, K.B. 1676, by Gerard Soest; 
 Lord Chancellor Hardwicke, 1737, after Ramsay; Lord Chancellor 
 Bathurst, 1771, by Sir N. Dance ; Sir John Skynner, Lord Chief Baron, 
 1771, by Gainsborough; Sir William Grant, "Master of the Rolls, by 
 Harlow; Francis Hargreave, Treasurer in 1813, by Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds ; and Sir H. Addington, Speaker of the House of Commons. 
 
 In the Council-room is a portrait of Sir John Franklin, of Mavourn, 
 
 * By the will of Lord Wyndham, Baron of Finglass, and Lord High Chancellor 
 of Ireland, the sura of 200Z. was bequeathed to the Society, to be expended 
 adorning the Chapel or Hall, as the benchers should think fit. At the recon 
 mendation of Lord Mansfield, Hogarth was engaged to paint the picture, whicl 
 was at first designed for the chapel. Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, p. 103. 
 
INNS OF COURT: GRAY'S INN. 411 
 
 Beds, Knight, a master in chancery 33 years ; ob. 1707. Here are also 
 iseveral copies from the old masters ; and a Lady with a Guitar, by 
 William Etty, R.A. The walls of both Council and Drawing-rooms 
 iare also hung with a valuable collection of engraved portraits of legal 
 jdignitaries, eminent prelates, &c. 
 
 The Library, 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 44 feet high, has an 
 bpen oak roof, of much originality. The projecting book-cases form 
 (separate apartments for study, and have an iron balcony running round 
 jthem about midway, and another gallery over them against each wall. 
 [Each of the oriel windows displays arms of the present benchers; as 
 jilso the five northern windows, except the lower lights of the central 
 >ne, which are filled with the arms of Queen Victoria, of brilliant 
 Dolour and broad treatment. The glass of the windows consists of 
 ismall circular panes, termed beryl glazing, of remarkable brilliancy. 
 
 The Society's valuable collection of Mss., mostly bequeathed by Sir 
 Matthew Hale, are deposited in two rooms opening from the Library. 
 iThe books and Mss. exceed 25,000 : the collection of law books is the 
 nost complete in this country, and here are many important works on 
 ' listory and antiquities. The Library, founded in 1497, is older than any 
 iiow existing in the metropolis ; and many of the volumes still retain 
 ;ron rings, by which they were secured by rods to the shelves. The 
 arly Year-books are chiefly in their original oak binding ; and four 
 jj>f them belonged to William Rastell, nephew of Sir Thomas More, 
 jlmong the other rarities are, Le Mirror de Justices per Andrew 
 jllorne, in a hand of the reign of James I.; Placita of the whole reign 
 j'f Edward II. on vellum, written in the fourteenth century ; two 
 jjolumes of statutes on vellum, Edward III. and Henry V. ; a MS. year- 
 book, Edward III.; the fourth volume of Prynne's' Records, bought 
 [;or 3351. by the Society at the Stowe sale, in 1849 (it was published 
 In the year of the Great Fire, when most of the copies were burnt) ; 
 ijeveral MSS. in the handwriting of Sir Matthew Hale, Archbishop 
 ; Jsher, and the learned Selden ; a beautiful copy of the works of King 
 Charles I., which had belonged to King Charles II.; Baron Maseres's 
 ! opy of his " Scriptores Logarithmici," six vols. 4to ; Charles Butler's 
 : ne copy of "Tractatus Universi Juris," with index, 28 vols. folio, &c. 
 See Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, specially devoted to the Library; to 
 rfhich carefully- written work we are much indebted.) 
 | The New Hall and Library were inaugurated October 30, 1845, by 
 i>ueen Victoria and Prince Albert, when Her Majesty held %, levee in 
 lie Library, at which the Treasurer of the Inn, J. A. F. Simpkinson, 
 ras knighted ; the Prince became a member of the Society, and with 
 le Queen signed his name in the Admittance-book. Her Majesty and 
 I'rince Albert then partook of an early banquet in the Great Hall; this 
 eing the first visit of a sovereign to the Inn for nearly two centuries. 
 Lincoln's Inn is exempted from poor-rates as extra-parochial. The 
 round on which the New Hall is built belonged, at the time of building, 
 ) the parish of St. Giles in the Fields ; but was, by agreement, subse- 
 aently severed from that parish, and annexed to the vill or township 
 :' Lincoln's Inn, the Society paying annually a compensation to the 
 irish for the rates. 
 
 GRAY'S INN, on the north side of Holborn, and west of Gray's-Inn- 
 ne, appears to have been " a goodly house since Edward Ill.'s time" 
 >fenc). It was originally the residence of the noble family of Gray of 
 r ilton, who, in 1505, sold to Hugh Denny, Esq. " the manor of Port- 
 )ole (one of the prebends belonging to St. Paul's Cathedral), otherwise 
 died Gray's Inn, four messuages, four gardens, the site of a windmill, 
 ?ht acres of land, ten shillings of free rent, and the advowson of the 
 .antry of Portpoole." The manor was next sold to the prior and con- 
 
412 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 vent of East Sheen, in Surrey, who leased "the mansion of Portpoole" 
 to " certain students of the law," at the annual rent of M. 13s. 4rf. ; and 
 after the Dissolution by Henry VIII. the benchers of Gray's Inn were 
 entered in the king's books as the fee-farm tenants of the Crown, at 
 the same rent as paid to the monks of Sheen. 
 
 The principal entrance to Gray's Inn is from Holborn,by a gateway 
 erected 1592, a fine specimen of early brickwork, leading to South- 
 square (formerly Holborn-court), separated by the hall, chapel, and 
 library from Gray's-Inn-square. Westward is Field-court, with a 
 gate, now blocked 'up, to Fulwood's Rents (see page 318); and opposite 
 is the lofty gate of the gardens; Verulam-buildings east, Raymond- 
 buildings west ; the northern boundary-wall being in King's-road. 
 
 The Hall was completed in 1560. It has an open oak roof, divided 
 into seven bays by Gothic arched ribs, the spandrels and pendants 
 richly carved ; in the centre is an open louvre, pinnacled externally. 
 The interior is wainscoted, and has an oaken screen, decorated with 
 Tuscan columns, caryatides, c. The windows are richlv emblazoned 
 with arms. The men of Gray's Inn had their masques and revels, and 
 were " practisers" of gorgeous'interludes and plenteous Christmasings: 
 a comedy acted here Christmas 1527, written by John Roos, a student 
 of the Inn, and afterwards serjeant-at-law, so" offended "NVolsey, that 
 its author was degraded and imprisoned. Adjoining is the Chapel, 
 probably on the site of the "chantry of Portpoole," wherein masses 
 were daily sung for the soul of John, the son of Reginald de Gray, for 
 which lands were granted to the prior and convent of St. Bartholomew, 
 Smithfield : at their expense divine service was subsequently performed 
 here on behalf of the society ; and after the Dissolution, th'e chaplain's 
 salary was paid out of the Augmentation Court. At the Reformation, 
 the Popish utensils, with a pair of organs, were sold, but were restored 
 by Mary ; and by command of Henry VIII. was taken out a window, 
 " wherein the image of St. Thomas a Becket was gloriously painted." 
 Richard Sibbs, author of the Bruised Reed, was one of the preachers. 
 
 In 29 Elizabeth, for the better relief of the poor in Gray's-Inn-lane, alms were 
 distributed thrice by the week at Gray's Inn gate. 
 
 James 1. signified by the judges that none but gentlemen of descent should be 
 admitted of Gray's Inn. The Readers had liberal allowances of wine and venison ; 
 \id. and viiid. was paid for each mess ; and eggs and green sauce were the breakfast 
 on Lenten-day; and beer did not exceed 6s. per barrel. Caps were compulsorily 
 worn at dipper and supper; and hats, boots, and spurs, and standing with the back 
 to the fire, in the hall, were forbidden under penalty. Dice and cards were only 
 allowed at Christmas. Lodging double was customary in the old inn ; and at a 
 pension, 9 July, 21 Henry VIII., Sir Thomas Nevile accepted Mr. Attorney-Gene- 
 ral (Sir Christopher Hales) to be his bedfellow in his chamber here. 
 
 Gray's Inn has been noted for its exercises, called by Stow " Boltas Mootes, 
 and putting of cases." Bailey defines " Bolting (in Gray's Inn), a kind of exercise, 
 or arguing cases among the students." (Diet. 3d edit. 1737.) " Bolting is a term 
 of art used in Gray's Inn. and applied to the bolting or arguing of moot cases" 
 (Cowell's Law Diet.); and he argues the bolting of cases to be analogous to the 
 boulting or sifting of meal through a bag. Judge Hale has " beats and bolts out 
 the truth." Danby Pickering, Esq. of Gray's Inn was the last who voluntarily 
 resumed these mootings. 
 
 The Garden (Gray's-Inn-walks) was first planted about 1600, when 
 Mr. Francis Bacon, after Lord Verulam, was treasurer. (See GA: 
 p. 321.) Howel, in a letter from Venice, June 5, 1621, speaks of Gray's- 
 Inn-walks as the pleasantest place about London, with the choicest 
 society ; and they were in high fashion as a promenade and place of 
 assignation in Charles II.'s time, when from Bacon's summer- house, on 
 a mount, there was a charming view towards Highgate and Hampstead. 
 The Garden was formerly open to the public, like those of the Inner 
 Temple and Lincoln's Inn. 
 
INNS OF COURT: GRAY'S INN. 413 
 
 Hall the chronicler, and Gascoigne the poet, studied at Gray's 
 Inn : Gascoigne and his fellow -student Kinwelmersh translated the 
 Jocasta of Euripides, which was acted in Gray's-Inn-hall 1566. Brad- 
 shaw, president at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher. Sir Thomas 
 Holt was treasurer of Gray's Inn; and his son, Lord Chief- Justice 
 Holt, was entered upon the Society's books before he was ten years 
 bid : he is Verus the magistrate, in the Tatler, No. 14. 
 
 Lord Burghley entered at Gray's Inn in 1541, and made genealogy 
 ais special study. Sir Nicholas Bacon kept his terms here, was 
 balled to the bar in the Society, and was elected treasurer 1552; and his 
 son Francis, Lord Verulam, was admitted here, and made an antient in 
 .576 : here he sketched his great work the Organon, though law was 
 iiis principal study. In 1582, he was called to the bar ; in 1586, made a 
 aencher ; in 1588, appointed Reader to the Inn ; and in 1600, the Lent 
 louble Reader : in the interval he wrote his Essays, dedicated " from 
 ny chamber at Graie's Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597." In 1583, he 
 ,tood among the barristers at Temple Bar to welcome Queen Elizabeth 
 nto the City. Bacon had chambers in Gray's Inn when Lord Chancel- 
 QV ; and here he received the suitors' bribes, by which his name became 
 arnished with infamy. After his downfall and distress, when he had 
 >arted with York House, he resided, during his visits to London, at his 
 Id chambers in Gray's Inn ; whence, in 1626, on a severe day, he went 
 s|i his coach to Highgate, took cold in stuffing a fowl with snow as an 
 nti-putrescent, became too ill to return to Gray's Inn, and was carried 
 [p the Earl of Arundel's house at Highgate, where he died within a 
 j-eek. Lord Bacon is traditionally said to have lived in the large house 
 icing Gray's Inn garden-gates, where Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, 
 ,i-equently sent him home-brewed beer from his house in Holborn. 
 Sasil Montagu,* however, fixes Bacon's chambers on the site of No. 1 
 i |ray's-Inn-square, first floor ; the house was burnt Feb. 17, 1679, with 
 -, b other chambers. (Historian's Guide, 3d edit. 1688.) Lord Campbell 
 ; peculatively states that Bacon's chambers " remain in the same state 
 ? > when he occupied them, and are still visited by those who worship 
 s memory." (Lives of the Lord Chancellors, vol. ii. p. 274.) The 
 i isociation with Bacon is recorded in " Verulam-buildings : " 
 
 " Whene'er through Gray's Inn porch I stray, 
 I meet a spirit by the way ; 
 
 * # *-. * 
 
 He tells me truly what T am 
 
 I walk with mighty Verulam." Town Lyrics, by C. Mackay, 1848. 
 
 vid Jones, the patriotic Welsh judge, temp. Charles I., was of Gray's 
 n ; Romilly was also a member ; and Southey was entered here on 
 ving Oxford. The students were formerly often refractory. Pepys 
 ites in May 1667 : " Great talk of how the barristers and students 
 Gray's Inn rose in rebellion against the benchers the other day, who 
 tlawed them, and a great deal to do ; now they are at peace again." 
 Within Gray's-Inn-gate, next Gray's-Inn-lanc, lived Jacob Tonson, 
 10 published here Dryden's Spanish Friar, 1681, said to be the first 
 >rk published by the Tonsons : Jacob was the second son of a barber- 
 rurgeon in Holborn. At Gray's-Inn-gate, also, lived Thomas Os- 
 rne, the bookseller, who gave 13,000?. for the boohs from the Harleian 
 )rary, for the binding of a portion of which Lord Oxford is stated by 
 bdin to have paid 18,OOOJ. 
 The Gray's-Inn Journal, in the style of the Spectator, was started 
 
 r Mr. Montagu, who died in 1852, possessed a glass and silver-handled fork, 
 *jh a shifting silver spoon-bowl, which once belonged to Lord Bacon, whose 
 cst, a boar, modelled in gold, surmounts the fork-handle. 
 
414 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 by Arthur Murphy in 1752, and continued weekly two years. Murphy 
 studied the law, was refused admission to the societies of the Temple 
 and of Gray's Inn because he had been an actor, but was admitted of 
 Lincoln's Inn. 
 
 In Gray's Inn lived Dr. Rawlinson ("Tom Folio" of the Taller, 
 No. 158), who stuffed four chambers so full with books, that he slept 
 in the passage. In Holborn-court (now South-square) were the cham- 
 bers of Joseph Ritson, the literary antiquary and rigid Pvthagorean : 
 the site is now occupied bv the libraries, between the hall and chapel, 
 built by Wigg and Pownall. in 1841 ; style, elegant Italian. 
 
 Admission to the Inns, and Call to the Bar. The four Inns of Court, viz. the 
 two Temples, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn, have exclusively the power of con- 
 ferring the degree of Barrister-at-Law, requisite for practising as an advocate or 
 counsel in the Superior Courts. Lincoln's Inn is generally preferred for students 
 who contemplate the Equity Bar ; it being the locality of Equity Counsel and 
 Conveyancers, and of Equity Courts or Courts of Chancery. If the student 
 design to practise the common law, either immediately as an" advocate at West- 
 minster, the assizes, and sessions, or as a special pleader (a learned person who, 
 having kept his terms, is allowed to draw legal forms and pleadings, though not 
 actually at the bar), his choice lies usually between the Inner Temple, the Middle 
 Temple, and Gray's Inn, though he may adopt Lincoln's Inn. The Inner Temple, 
 from its formerly insisting on a classical examination before admission, became 
 more exclusive than the Middle Temple or Gray's Inn. Gray's Inn is numerously 
 attended by Irish students, and has produced some of the greatest luminaries 
 at the Irish Bar, including Daniel O'Connell. 
 
 To procure admission to either of these Inns, the student must obtain the 
 certificate of two barristers, coupled in the Middle Temple with that of a bencher, 
 to the effect that the applicant is a fit person to be received into the Inn for the 
 purpose of being called to the Bar. Ouce admitted, the student has the use of 
 the Library, and is entitled to a seat in the church or chapel of the Inn, and to 
 have his name set down for chambers. He is then required to keep commont, 
 by dining in the hall for twelve terms (four terms occur in each year); on com- 
 mencing which, he must deposit with the treasurer 100/., to be retained with 
 interest until he is called; but members of the Universities are exempt from 
 this deposit. The student must also sign a bond with sureties for the payment 
 of his commons and term-fees. In all the Inns no person can be called unless he 
 is above twenty-one years of age and three years' standing as a student. The 
 call is made by the benchers in council ; after which the student becomes a 
 barrister, and takes the usual oath at Westminster. In certain Inns, however, 
 the student must, before his call, attend certain lectures, which are a revival ol 
 the old readings, without their festivities. 
 
 A Hall Dinner is a formal scene. At five or half-past five o'clock, the barristers, 
 students, and other members in their gowns, having assembled in the hall, the 
 benchers enter in procession to the dais; the steward strikes the table three times, 
 grace is said by the treasurer or senior bencher present, and the dinner com- 
 mences : the benchers observe somewhat more style at their table than the other 
 members do at theirs : the general repast is a tureen of soup, a joint of meat, a 
 tart, and cheese, to each mess consisting of four persons ; each mess is also allowed 
 a bottle of port-wine. The dinner over, the benchers, after grace, retire to theii 
 own apartment. At the Inner Temple, on May 29, a gold cup of " sack" is handed 
 to each member, who drinks to the happy restoration of Charles II. At Gray't 
 Inn a similar custom prevails, but the toast is the memory of Queen Elizabeth. 
 The Inner Temple Hall waiters are called panniers, from the panarii who attended 
 the Knights Templars. At both Temples the form of the dinner resembles the ! 
 repasts of the military monks : the benchers on the dais representing the Knights; 
 the barristers, the Prcres, or Brethren; and the students, the Novices. The 
 Middle Temple still bears the arms of the Knights Templars, viz. the figure o: 
 the Holy Lamb. 
 
 The entrance expenses at the Inner Temple (the average of the costs at othei 
 Inns) are 40/. 11*. 5d., of which 251. 1*. 3d. is for the stamp; on call, 82/. 12*., o: 
 which 521. 2s. Gd. is for the stamp: total, 123/. 3*. The commons bill is aboui 
 121. annually. 
 
 Anns of Temple, Inner: Az. a pegasus salient, or. Temple, Middle: Arg. or 
 a cross gu. a paschal lamb or, carrying a banner of the first, charged with a cros;, 
 of the second. Lincoln's Inn : Or, a lion rampant purp. These were the arms o. 
 Lacy Earl of Lincoln. Gray's Inn : Sa. a grifiin segreant, or. 
 
INNS OF CHANCERY. 415 
 
 INNS OF CHANCEKY. 
 
 These Inns were formerly the nurseries of our great lawyers ; but 
 they are at present attached only by name to the parent Inns of 
 Court : the Inner Temple has three, 'Clement's, Clifford's, and Lynn's 
 Inns; the Middle Temple one, New Inn; Lincoln's Inn one, Thavie's; 
 and Gray's Inn two, Barnard's and Staple Inns. 
 
 BARNARD'S INN, Holborn, anciently Mackworth's, from having be- 
 longed to Dr. John Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln, temp. Henry VI., 
 was next occupied by one Barnard, when it was converted into an Inn 
 of Chancery ; the arms of the house are those of Mackworth, viz. 
 party per pale, indented ermine and sables, a chevron, gules, fretted or. 
 |The ancient Hall, maintained in the olden taste, is the smallest in the 
 London Inns : it is 36 feet long, 22 feet wide, and 30 feet high. 
 
 In Barnard's Inn, No. 2, second-floor chambers, lived the chemist, Mr. Peter 
 | Woulfe, F.R.S., a believer in alchemy. Among his contributions to the Phil. 
 \Trans. are "Experiments to shew the nature of Aurum Mosaicum." Woulfe 
 was a tall, thin man; he died in Barnard's Inn in? 1805, and his last moments 
 (were remarkable. By his desire, his laundress shut up his chambers, and left 
 ihim, but returned at midnight, when Woulfe was still alive : next morning, 
 jhowever, she found him dead; his countenance was calm and serene, and, appa- 
 Srently, he had not moved from the position in which she had last seen him. 
 
 Westward, in Holborn, in Dyers'-buildings, (the site of some alms- 
 houses of the Dyers' Company,*) lived William Roscoe when he pub- 
 lished his edition of Pope's works, with notes and a life of the poet, 
 N10 vols. 8vo, 1824. 
 
 CLEMENT'S INN, Strand, is named from being near the church of 
 .St. Clement Danes, and St. Clement's Well. It was a house for stu- 
 dents of the law in the reign of Edward IV. The Elizabethan iron 
 gate, erected in 1852, bears the device of St. Clement, an anchor with- 
 out a stock, with a C couchant upon it ; as also does the Hall, built in 
 D1715. In the small garden is a kneeling figure supporting a sun-dial; 
 ! it is painted black, and has hence been called a blackamoor. 
 
 Shakspeare has left us a picture from this Inn at his period : 
 
 Shallow. I was once of Clement's Inn, where, I think, they will talk of mad 
 Shallow yet. 
 
 Silence. You were called lusty Shallow, then, cousin. 
 
 Shallow. By the mass, I was called any thing ; and I would have done any 
 lining indeed, and roundly too. There was I, and little John Doit of Stafford- 
 shire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and Francis Pickbone, and Will 
 Squele, a Cotswold man ; you had not four such, swinge-bucklers in all the Inns 
 lof Court again. 
 
 Then Shallow tells of Sir John Falstaff breaking " Skogan's head at the court- 
 jgate when he was a crack not thus high; and the very same day did I fight with 
 one Sampson Stockfish, a fruiterer, behind Gray's Inn." 
 
 Shallow. Oh, Sir John, do you remember since we lay all night in the Wind- 
 mill in St. George's Fields 1 
 
 Falstaff. We have heard the chimes at midnight, Master Shallow. 
 
 Shallow. I remember at Mile-End Green (when I lay at Clement's Inn), I was 
 then " Sir Dagonet" in Arthur's Show. 
 
 Then Falstaff says of Shallow: I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a 
 man made after supper of a cheese-paring. Henry IV. Part II. act iii. sc. 2. 
 
 St. Clement's Well, on the east of the Inn, and lower end of Cle- 
 rnent's-lane, is mentioned by Fitzstephen : it is now covered, and has 
 a pump placed in it. Lord Chief-Justice Saunders (1681) was ori- 
 ginally a poor boy, who used to beg scraps at Clement's Inn, where 
 an attorney's clerk taught him to earn some pence by hackney writing. 
 CLIFFORD'S INN, behind St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street, is 
 named from Robert Clifford, to whom the property was granted by 
 Edward II., and by his widow was let to students of the law. The 
 
416 CURIOSITIES OF L05s*DON. 
 
 arms are those of the Lords Clifford, viz. cheeky, or and azure, a fes 
 and bondure gules, besante sable. Sir Edward Coke was admitted 
 this Inn, 1571 ; and Selden, 1602. Harrison, the regicide, was an atto 
 ney's clerk here: in the same office with him was John Bramstc 
 cousin of Sir John Bramston, who records : " When the warr began 
 his fellow- clerke, Harrison, perswaded him to take armes (this is th 
 famous rogue Harrison, one of the King's judges.) which he did, th 
 he might get to the King, which he soon did." (Autobiography.} 
 
 The Hall is modern Gothic, but has some old armorial glass. He: 
 is an oaken case, in which are the Society's rules written on vellu: 
 with illuminated initials and the arms of England, temp. Henry VII 
 In this Hall Sir Matthew Hale and the judges sat after the Great Fi 
 of 1663, to adjudicate in disputes between landlords and tenants, & 
 The most authentic record of any settling of the Law Societies in tl 
 reign of Edward III. is a demise, in the 18th year, from Lady Cliffo 
 apprenticiis de Banco, " of that house near Fleet-street called Cli 
 ford's Inn." 
 
 FURXIVAI/S INN, between Brook-street and Leather-lane, was 01 
 ginally the town mansion of the Lords Furnival, and was an Inn < 
 Chancery in the 9th of Henry IV. ; was held under lease temp. E> 
 ward VL, and the inheritance*] in the then Lord Shrewsbury was so 
 early in Elizabeth's reign to the benchers of Lincoln's Inn, wl 
 leased the property to the Society of Furnival's Inn. Sir Thorn 
 More was Reader here for three years. The original buildings we: 
 mostly taken down in Charles I.'s time, and then re-edified with a lof 
 street-front of fine brickwork, decorated with pilasters. The o 
 Gothic Hall remained until 1818, when the entire Inn was taken dow 
 and rebuilt of brick by Peto in modern style, with stone columns ai 
 other accessories. Thomas Fiddall, attorney of this Inn in 1654, wro 
 a Conveyancing Guide, published with his portrait. Furnival's Inn 
 let in chambers, but is no longer an Inn of Court or Chancery. 
 
 " In the 32d of Henry VI., a tumult betwixt the gentlemen of innes of cos 
 and chancery and the citizens of London hapening in Fleet-street, in whi 
 some mischief was done, the principals of Cliffoord's Inne, Furnivalle's Inr 
 and Barnard's Inne, were sent prisoners to Hartford castle." Stow's Annclt. 
 
 LTON'S INN, Strand, between Holywell-street and Wych-stret 
 was originally a hostelry with the sign of the Lyon, converted to i\ 
 Inn of Chancery temp. Henry VIII. The Hall bears the date 17 <> >, ai 
 a lion sculptured in its pediment. The Inn formerly had its sun-di; 
 and a few trees. Sir Edward Coke was Reader at Lyon's Inn in 157 
 
 XEW INX, Wych-street, adjoins Clement's Inn: the Hall and oth< 
 buildings are modern. On the site, about 1485, was a guest inn, 
 hostelry, with the sign of the Virgin Mary, and thence called O\\ 
 Lady's Inn. It was purchased or hired by Sir John Fineux, Chi! 
 Justice of the King's Bench, in the reign of Edward IV., at G/. p 
 annum, for the law-students of St. George's Inn, in St. George's-lar 
 Little Old Bailey ; here also the students of the Strand Inn nestle 
 after they were routed from thence in the reign of Edward VI. by t 
 Duke of Somerset. The armorial ensigns of New Inn are, vert. 
 flower-pot argent. Sir Thomas More studied here in the reign 
 VII.. 
 
 Henry VII., before he entered himself of Lincoln's Inn; and in afte 
 life he spoke of " New Inn fare, wherewith many an honest man is w 
 contented." Against the Hall is a large vertical sun-dial; motto, "Tii 
 and tide tarry for no man." 
 
 SCROOFE'S Ixx, Holborn-hill, adjoining Ely-place, was an inn f 
 Serjeants-at-law in the reign of Richard III. ; and was originally t 
 town-house of one of the Lords Scroope, of Bolton. The Serjt 
 
INNS OF CHANCERY. 417 
 
 left it about 1500; its site is Union-court, formerly Scroope's-court, 
 between Nos. 96 and 97 Holborn-hill. 
 
 SERJEANTS' INN, Chancery-lane, was originally the inn of John 
 Skarle, and " Faryngdon's Inn," the estate of the Bishops of Ely ; let 
 to the Judges and Serjeants-at-law at 4/. rent per annum in 1411, and 
 first called " Serjeants' Inn" about 1484. In 1837-8, the Inn was 
 rebuilt by Sir Robert Smirke, R. A. ;* except the old dining-hall of the 
 Society, which was then fitted up as a court for Exchequer equity 
 sittings : the windows have some old armorial glass. 
 
 SERJEANTS' INN, Fleet-street, was the residence of the Serjeants- 
 at-law in the reign of Henry VI. ; was destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 16G6; rebuilt in 1670, with chapel, hall, &c. ; and again rebuilt, as we 
 now see it, with a handsome stone-fronted edifice designed for the 
 Amicable Society by Adam. The Inn has long been left by the Serjeants. 
 
 " The degree of Serjeant-at-law is the highest in the profession of the common 
 law, on receiving which the Serjeants formerly gave costly entertainments re- 
 sembling coronation-feasts ; and to this day the custom is retained of giving gold 
 rings to the queen, lord-chancellor, and other persons. Upon the removal of the 
 newly-created serjeant from the Inn of Court of which he had been a member to 
 Serjeants' Inn, he receives a purse often guineas as a retaining fee from the So- 
 ciety of which he takes leave. Certain privileges of the degree of Serjeant-at-law 
 have lately been abolished; and in a few years this ancient order will be all but 
 extinct." G. Buwy-er, 1847. 
 
 STAPLE INN, Holborn, nearly opposite Gray's-Inn-lane, is tradi- 
 tionally named from baring been the inn or hostel of the Merchants of 
 the (Wool) Staple, whither it was removed from "Westminster by 
 Richard 11. in 1378. It became an Inn of Chancery temp. Henry V. ; 
 and the inheritance of it was granted 20th Henry VIII. to the Society 
 of Gray's Inn. The Holborn front is of the time of James I., and one 
 of the oldest existing specimens of our metropolitan street-architec- 
 ture. The Hall is of a later date, has a clock-turret, and had ori- 
 ginally an open timber roof : some of the armorial window-glass is of 
 date 1500 ; there are a few portraits, and at the upper end is the wool- 
 sack, the arms of the Inn ; and upon brackets are casts of the Twelve 
 Caesars. In the garden adjoining is a luxuriant fig-tree which nearly 
 covers the south side of the hall. Upon a terrace opposite are the 
 offices of the Taxing Masters in Chancery, completed in 1843, Wigg 
 and Pownall architects; in the purest style of the reign of James 1., 
 with frontispiece, arched entrances, and semicircular oriels, finely 
 effective : the open-work parapet of the terrace, and the lodge and 
 gate leading to Southampton-buildings, are very picturesque. 
 
 Dr. Johnson lived in Staple Inn in 1759: in a note to Miss Porter, dated 
 March 23, he informs her that " he had on that day removed from Gough-square, 
 where he had resided ten years, into chambers at Staple Inn ;" here he wrote his 
 Idler, seated in a three-legged chair, so scantily were his chambers furnished. In 
 1760, Johnson removed to Gray's Inn. Isaac Reed lived at No. 11 Staple Inn. 
 
 STRAND INN, or CHESTER INN from its being near the Bishop of 
 Chester's house, was taken down, temp. Edward VI., by the Duke of 
 Somerset for building his palace ; it occupied part of the site of the 
 present Somerset House. Occleve, the pupil of Chaucer, in the reign 
 of Henry V., is said to have studied the law at " Chestre's Inn." 
 
 STMOND'S INN, Chancery-lane, though named from a gentleman of 
 the parish who died in 1621, is stated to be the only portion retained 
 by the Bishops of Chichester of their property in Chancery-lane, where 
 
418 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 they formerly had a palace ; and here are Bishop's-court and Chichester- 
 rents. (See page 70.) 
 
 THAVIE'S INN, between Nos. 56 and 57 Holborn-hill, was ori- 
 ginally the dwelling of John Thavie, of the Armourers' Company, who 
 let the house temp. Edward III. to apprentices to the law, and was 
 subsequently purchased as an Inn of Chancery by the benchers of Lin- 
 coln's Inn, by whom it was sold in 1771 ; destroyed by fire, and rebuilt 
 as a private court. In the adjoining church of St. Andrew is a monu- 
 ment to John Thavie, who, in 1348, " left a considerable estate towards 
 the support of this fabrick for ever," from which property the parish 
 now derive an annual income of 1300/. 
 
 ISLE OF DOGS (THE), 
 
 A part of Poplar Marsh, lying within the bold curve of the Thames 
 between Black wall and Limehouse, was originally a peninsula ; but in 
 1799-1800, a canal was cut through the isthmus by the Corporation of 
 London, to save ships the long passage round the Isle ; but since sold to 
 the West India Dock Company, and now a timber- dock. (See page 
 256.) Here Togodumnus, brother of Caractacus, is said to have been 
 killed in a battle with the Romans under Plaulius, A.D. 46. Tradi- 
 tionally, it was named from the hounds of Edward III. being kept there, 
 for contiguity to Waltham and other royal forests in Essex. Again, 
 Isle of Dogs is held to be corrupted from Isle of Ducks, from the wild- 
 fowl upon it. Here (says Lysons) stood the chapel of St. Mary, men- 
 tioned in a will of the loth century, " perhaps an hermitage founded 
 for saying masses for the souls of mariners. Pepys speaks of it as 
 " the unlucky Isle of Doggs." The ground is very rich, and in Strype's 
 time oxen fed here sold for ?4Z. a piece : the grass was long prized 
 for distempered cattle. The island is a pleistocene drift or diluvial 
 deposit, in which has been found a subterranean forest of elm, oak, and 
 fir trees, eight feet below the grass, and lying from south-east to north- 
 west ; some of the elms were three feet four inches in diameter, accom- 
 panied by human bones and recent shells, but no metals or traces of 
 civilisation : the marsh is now inclosed by a pile and brick embankment. 
 Here Captain Brown, R.N., established 'his works for the manufacture 
 of iron suspension-bridges and iron cables : in 1813, he built here a sus- 
 pension-bridge for foot-passengers, weighing only 38 cwt., but carts 
 and carriages passed safely over it ; the span was 100 feet. Captain 
 Brown also constructed the Chain Pier at Brighton, in 1822-3. About 
 this time the Isle of Dogs began to be thickly inhabited : here is St. 
 Edmund's Roman Catholic Chapel. The Isle is now covered with 
 stone-wharves, iron ship-building and chemical works, &c. (See BLACK- 
 WALL, p. 49.) Adjoining are the dockyards of the Wigrams and Greens, 
 formerly Perry's, mentioned by Pepys in 1660-61 : the picturesque old 
 masting- house is 120 feet high. Near the principal entrance to the 
 "West India Docks is a bronze statue (by Westmacott) of Mr. Milligan, 
 by whom the Docks were begun and principally completed. 
 
 ISLINGTON, 
 
 Called also Iseldon, Yseldon, Eyseldon, Isendune, and Isondon, and of 
 all the villages near London alone bearing a British name, was origi- 
 nally two miles distant north of the town, to which it is now united. 
 Iseldon is conjectured to signify the lower fort, or station ; and as 
 there was undoubtedly a Roman camp at Highbury, this name may 
 have been given to the camp which a few years since was visible in the 
 field beside Barnsbury Park. Iseldon, in Domesday Book, possesses 
 nearly 1000 acres of arable land alone ; and so well cleared was the pro- 
 perty, that there only remained " pannage for 60 hogs" (woodlands) ad- 
 joining Hornsey. 
 
ISLINGTON. 419 
 
 The great benefactor of Islington was Richard de Cloudesley, who by will, 
 dated 1517, among other bequests to the parish, left to poor men gowns with the 
 names of Jesu and Maria upon them; also 40*. for repairing and amending the 
 causeway between his house and Islington Church ; and a load of straw to be 
 laid upon his grave : but superstition would not let Cloudesley's " bodie rest until 
 certain exorcises, at dede of night," had quieted him with " diuers diuine exer- 
 cises at torchlight." The name of this benefactor is preserved in Cloudesley 
 Square and Terrace. Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, is said to have 
 resided at Newington Green, where Henry VIII. was a frequent visitor , probably 
 on his hawking excursions; and one of his proclamations, in 1516, commands 
 that " the games of hare, partridge, pheasant, and heron, be preserved for his 
 owne disport and pastime; that is to saye, from his palace of Westminster to 
 St. Gyles in the Fields, and from thence to Islington, to our Lady of the Oke, to 
 Highgate, to Hornsey Parke, to Hamsted Heath," &c. 
 
 Islington retained a few of its Elizabethan houses to our time, and its 
 rich dairies are of like antiquity : in the entertainment given to Queen 
 Elizabeth at Kenilworth Castle, in 1575, the Squier Minstrel of Mid- 
 dlesex glorifies Islington with the motto, "Lac caseus infans ;" and it 
 is still noted for its cow-keepers. (See DAIRIES, p. 250.) It was once 
 as famous for its cheese-cakes as Chelsea for its buns ; and among its 
 other notabilities were custards and stewed " pruans," its mineral spa, 
 and its ducking-ponds, Ball's Pond dating from the time of Charles I. 
 At the lower end of Islington, in 1611, were eight inns, principally 
 supported by summer visitors : 
 
 " Hogsdone, Islington, and Tothnam Court, 
 For cakes and creame had then no small resort." 
 
 Wither's Britain's Remembrancer, 1628. 
 
 Islington parish includes Upper and Lower Holloway, three sides of 
 Newington Green, and part of Kingsland ; the southern portion of the 
 village being in the parish of St. James, Clerkenwell. Besides St. Mary's, 
 the mother-church (described at page 144), here are a large church in 
 Lower Holloway ; St. John's, Upper Holloway ; St. Paul's, Ball's 
 Pond; and Trinity, Cloudesley-square all three built by Barry, R.A., 
 1828-i), who also built St. Peter's, in 1835 ; and Christchurch, Highbury, 
 by Allom, in 1849, with a picturesque tower and spire, and interior 
 of novel plan. There are also other district churches ; St. John the 
 Evangelist's (Roman-Catholic), with lofty gable and flanking towers ; 
 besides numerous chapels for every shade of dissent : Claremont Chapel, 
 built in 1820, was named in memory of the lamented Princess Charlotte. 
 
 Among the celebrated old houses of Islington is Sir Thomas Fowler's, 
 No. 41 Cross-street, with the Royal arms, E. R., and the date 1595, 
 fleurs-de-lvs, medallions, and ^ (Thomas and Jane Fowler) : attached 
 is a garden-lodge. 
 
 Canonbury, about half a mile north-east of the old church, was once 
 ;he country-house of the Prior of the Canons of St. Bartholomew : the 
 o\ver is described at page 63. At the entrance of the village from 
 Olerkenwell was a hermitage, in the fields adjoining which Dame Alice 
 Owen, in the reign of Queen Mary, escaped "braining" by a stray 
 arrow, denoted by arrows upon the top of the school and almshouses 
 which she built upon the spot. (See ALMSHOUSES, p. 5.) 
 
 Among the old inns and public-houses was, near the church, the 
 Pied Bull, popularly a villa of Sir Walter Raleigh's ; in Lower-street, 
 the Crown, apparently of the reign of Henry VII., and the Queen's 
 Head, a half-timbered Elizabethan house; near the Green, the jDuhe's 
 Head, kept by Topham, "the Strong Man of Islington ;" in Frog-lane, 
 the Barley-mow, where George Morland painted; at the Old Parr's 
 Head, in Upper-street, Henderson the tragedian first acted; White 
 Conduit House has been twice rebuilt within our recollection; and 
 Highbury Barn, though now a showy tavern, nominally recals its rural 
 
420 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 origin; the Three Hats, near the turnpike, was taken down in 1839; 
 and the Angel was originally a galleried inn. Timber gables and rudely- 
 carved brackets are occasionally to be seen in house-fronts ; also here 
 and there an old "house of entertainment," which, with the little re- 
 maining of " the Green," remind one of Islington village. 
 
 Islington abounds in chalybeate springs, resembling the Tunbridge 
 Wells water; one of which was rediscovered in 1683, in the garden of 
 Sadler's music-house, subsequently Sadler's Wells Theatre; and at the 
 Sir Hugh MiddletorCs Head tavern was formerly a conversation-picture 
 with twenty-eight portraits of the Sadler's Wells Club. In Spa Fields, 
 about fifty years ago, was held " Gooseberry Fair," where the stalls of 
 Gooseberry -fool vied with the " threepenny tea-booths" and the beer 
 at "my Lord Cobham's Head." 
 
 The New River enters Islington by Stoke Newington, and passing 
 onward, beneath Highbury, to the east of Islington, ingulfs itself under 
 the road, in a subterraneous channel of 300 yards; again rises in Cole- 
 brook-row, and still coasting the southern side of Islington, reaches its 
 termination at the New River Head, Sadler's Wells. From this vast 
 circular basin the water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns, 
 and thence by mains and riders to all parts of London. (See NEW RIVER.) 
 
 The centre of Islington is perforated by the Regent's Canal brick 
 tunnel, commencing westward of White Conduit House, and termi- 
 nating below Colebrook-row. The tunnel is 17 feet wide, 900 yards 
 long, 18 feet high (including 7 feet 6 inches depth of water). 
 
 Highbury was originally a summer camp of the Romans, and ad- 
 joined the Herman-street. "The manor was given to the Priory of St. 
 John of Jerusalem between 1271 and 1286, and was the Lord "Prior's 
 country residence, destroyed by Jack Straw in 1371. The site is now 
 occupied by Highbury House, where is a lofty observatorv, partly built 
 by John Smeaton, F.R.S. 
 
 Holloway was once famous for its cheese-cakes, which, within recol- 
 lection, were cried through London streets by a man on horseback. 
 Du Val's lane was traditionally the scene of the exploits of Du Yal, 
 the highwayman, executed at Tyburn Jan. 21, 1669, "to the great grief 
 of the women." Within memory, the lane was so infested with high- 
 waymen, that few people would venture to peep into it, even in mid- 
 day : in 1831 it was lighted with gas. (J. T. Smith.) At Lower 
 Holloway Mrs. Foster, grand- daughter of Milton, kept- a chandler's- 
 shop for several years; she died in poverty at Islington, May 9, 1754, 
 when the family of Milton became extinct. 
 
 Between Islington and Hoxton was built, in 1786, a curious wind- 
 mill for grinding white-lead, worked by five flyers, at right angles to 
 which projected a beam with smaller shafts. In 1853 was built at the 
 Rosemary Branch Gardens a Circus, to seat 5000 persons. At Hoxton 
 were the " Ivy Gardens" of Fairchild, who, dying rich, left to the parish 
 of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, 50/. (increased to 100J. by the parishioners), 
 the interest to be devoted to a lecture on Whit-Tuesday in the parish- 
 
 In the Lower-road is "the Islington Cattle-Market," originated 
 with a view to the removal of the cattle-market from Smithfield, and 
 established by Act of Parliament in 1835 ; but it failed as a market, and 
 has since been only used for the lairage of cattle : it occupies fifteen 
 acres of land, walled in. 
 
 Among the more eminent inhabitants of Islington were John Bagford, the 
 antiquary and book and print collector; William Collins, whilst under mental in- 
 firmity, was visited here by Dr. Johnson ; Alexander Cruden, compiler of the 
 
JAMES-STREET. ST. JAMES'S. 421 
 
 Concordance, died here in 1770; Oliver Goldsmith, and Ephraim Chambers the 
 cyclopedist, lodged in Canonbury tower; Quick, the comedian, in Hornsey-row; 
 John Nichols, F.S.A., editor of the Gentleman's Magazine, lived in Highbury- 
 place ; where Richard Percival, F.S.A., formed a matchless collection of drawings 
 and prints of Islington; William Knight, F.S.A., of Canonbury, a collection 
 of angling-books and missals (he greatly assisted John Rennie in his design for 
 London Bridge); William Upcott, F.S.A., the bibliographer and autograph- 
 collector, died here in 18i5; and Charles Lamb retired from his clerkship in the 
 India House to a cottage in Colebrook-row, in 1825: "the New River (rather 
 elderly by this time) runs (if a moderate walking pace can be so termed) close 
 to the foot of the house" (C. Lamb). Hard by was " Starvation Farm," where 
 the owner, a foreign baron, kept his emaciated stock. 
 
 JAMES STREET, WESTMINSTER, 
 
 Facing St. James's Park and Buckingham Gate, has been the abode 
 of two distinguished literati. At No. 11 lived the poet Glover, whose 
 song of " Hosier's Ghost" roused the nation to a Spanish war, and will 
 be read and remembered long after his " Leonidas" is forgotten. At 
 No. 6 died, December 31, 182(3, William Gifford, editor of the Quarterly 
 Review from its commencement in 1809 to 1824: ; and working editor 
 of the Anti- Jacobin Review, writing the refutations and corrections 
 of "the Lies," "Mistakes," and "Corrections." Gifford also trans- 
 lated Juvenal, wrote the satires of the Saviad and Mceviad, and edited 
 Massinger, Ben Jonson, Ford, and Shirley. 
 
 On the west side of James-street stood Tart Hall, partly built in 
 1638, by N. Stone, for Alathaea Countess of Arundel; after whose death 
 it became the property of her second son William, the amiable Viscount 
 Stafford, beheaded on Tower-hill Dec. 29, 1680, upon " the perjured 
 suborned evidence of the ever-infamous Gates, Dugdale, and Tuberville." 
 The gateway of Tart Hall was not opened after Lord Stafford had passed 
 under it for the last time. The second share of the Arundel Marbles 
 was deposited here, and produced at a sale in 1720, 8851/. 19*. 11 |c?. 
 (Minutes, Soc. Antiquaries.} Dr. Mead bought a bronze head of Homer 
 for IBGl. ; it is now in the British Museum, catalogued as a head of 
 Pindar. The Hall was taken down soon after the sale: Walpole told 
 Pennant it was very large and venerable. According to Strype, it was 
 part in the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and part in St. James's; 
 on the garden-wall, a boy was whipt annually to remember the parish 
 bounds : upon. the site of the wall was built Stafford-row : in one of the 
 adjoining passages, Mrs. Abingtoii, the actress, had an incognito lodg- 
 ing, for card -par ties. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S. 
 
 Although the Hospital dedicated to St. James is believed to have 
 been founded prior to the Norman Conquest, and was rebuilt as a palace 
 in 1532, not two centuries have elapsed since St. James's formed part 
 of the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and occupied the furthest 
 extremity of the western boundaries of Westminster. " The Court of 
 St. James's" dates from after the burning of Whitehall in the reign 
 of William III., when St. James's became the royal residence ; the 
 church was consecrated in 1685, in honour of the reigning monarch, to 
 St. James. (See CHURCHES, page 131.) 
 
 Hatton (1708) describes the parish as " all the houses and grounds 
 comprehended in a place heretofore called St. James's Fields, and the 
 confines thereof, containing about 3000 houses, and divided into seven 
 wards." In the reign of Queen Anne it had acquired the distinction of 
 the Court quarter. 
 
 ' The inhabitants of St. James's, notwithstanding they live under the same 
 laws and speak the same language, are a distinct people from those of Cheapside ; 
 
422 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 who are likewise removed from those of the Temple on the one side, and those of 
 Smithfield on the other, by several climates and degrees in their way of thinking 
 and conversing together." Addison ; Spectator, No. 403, 1712. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S-STREET, in 1670, was called " the Long Street," and 
 is described by Strype as beginning at the Palace of St. James's, and 
 running up to the road against Albemarle-buildings ; the best houses, 
 at the upper end, having a terrace-walk before them. Waller, the 
 poet, lived on the west side from 1660 till 1687, when he died at Bea- 
 consfield ; Pope -lodged " next door to y e Golden Ball, on ye second 
 terras." Gibbon, the historian, died Jan. 16, 1794, at No. 76, then 
 Elrnsley the bookseller's, who would not enter upon " the perilous 
 adventure of publishing the 'Decline and Fall,' " by which the pub- 
 lishers have profited ten times the amount paid to the author for his 
 copyright. 
 
 Horace Walpole relates: " I was told a droll story of Gibhon the other day. 
 One of those booksellers in Paternoster-row, who publish things in numbers, 
 went to Gibbon's lodgings in St. James's-street, sent up his name, and was 
 admitted. ' Sir,' said he, ' I am now publishing a History of England, done by 
 several good hands ; I understand you have a knack at them there things, and 
 should be glad to give you every reasonable encouragement.' As soon as Gibbon 
 had recovered the use of his legs and tongue, which were petrified with surprise, 
 he ran to the bell, and desired his servant to shew this encourager of learning 
 downstairs." 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren had a house in St. James's-street, where he died, 
 Feb. 25, 1723. Lord Byron lodged at No. 8 in 1811 ; Gillray, the cari- 
 caturist, lodged at No. 29, Humphrey the printseller's, when, in 1815, 
 he threw himself from an upstairs window, and died in consequence. 
 
 Humphrey was the publisher of Gillray's caricatures, the copperplates of 
 which were estimated, in 1815, to be worth 7000/. After Humphrey's death, his 
 widow could raise only 1000/. upon the plates; subsequently, when offered by 
 auction, they were bought in at 500Z. ; and upon the widow's death, her execu- 
 tors, unable to dispose of the plates as engravings, sold them to Mr. H. G. Bohn, 
 the publisher, as old copper, for as many pence as they were originally said to be 
 worth pounds; and sets are now to be bought at one-fifth of the first cost. (See 
 the Account, &c. by Wright and Evans, 1851.) 
 
 About 1708, Peyrault's, or Pero's " Bagnio," now Fenton's Hotel, was 
 in high fashion. At the south-west end was the St. James's Coffee- 
 house (Whig), taken down in 1806; it was the Foreign and Domestic 
 News-house of the Tatler, and the "fountain-head" of the Spectator. 
 (See COFFEE-HOUSES, p. 202.) Here, too, was the Tory house, Ozinda's ; 
 and the Cocoa-tree, to which belonged Gibbon and Lord Byron. 
 
 In St. James's-street are the following Club-houses, already de- 
 scribed : Albion, Arthur's, Boodle's, Brookes's, Conservative, late 
 Crockford's, the Dilettanti Society, and White's. (See pp. 190 to 199.) 
 
 At White's is a pair of views by Canaletti: one, London Bridge, with 
 the houses, from Old Somerset House Gardens ; and Westminster Bridge 
 (just built), taken from the water, off Cuper's Gardens. 
 
 Xext to Brookes's Club, in 1781, lived C. J. Fox. At No. 62 was 
 Betty's fruit-shop, famous in Horace Walpole's time. The Thatched 
 House Tavern in part remains next the Conservative Club ; it is noted 
 for the Public School Dinners given here. Sheridan called St. James's- 
 street the Campus Martius of the beaux' cavalry. 
 
 Facing St. James's-street, upon the site of Albemarle-street, was Clarendon 
 House, on the road whither, on Dec. 6, 1670, between six and seven in the even- 
 ing, the great Duke of Ormond was dragged from his carriage by Blood and his 
 accomplices, tied to one of them on horseback, and carried along Piccadilly 
 towards Tyburn, there to hang the duke; but the alarm being given at Clarendon 
 House, the servants followed and recovered his grace from a struggle in the mud 
 with the man he was tied to, and who, on regaining his horse, fired a pistol at 
 the duke and escaped. In the Historians Guide, third edit. 1688, are stated 
 
ST. JAMES'S. 423 
 
 to have been " six ruffians mounted and armed ;" the duke's six footmen, who 
 usually walked beside his carriage, were absent when the attack was made. 
 
 Bury (properly Berry) street, on the east, is named from the ground- 
 landlord, a half-pay officer temp. Charles I. : he died Nov. 1733, aged 
 above 100 years. Swift and Steele, Crabbe and Thomas Moore, occa- 
 sionally lodged in this street. 
 
 Jermyn-street, on the east side of St. James's-street, was named 
 from Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. Here, in 1765-81, lived the 
 Duke of Maryborough, when Colonel Churchill, at the west end, 
 south side. Gray, the poet, lodged here, at the east end. Sir Isaac 
 Newton lived in this street before he removed to St. Martin-street, 
 Leicester-square ; as did also William and John Hunter. East of St. 
 James's Church is the entrance-front of the Museum of Practical Geo- 
 logy, a lofty Italian building by Pennethorne ; completed in 1850. (See 
 MUSEUMS.) 
 
 In Jermyn-street, near St. James's Church, about 1713, lived Mrs. Howe and 
 her husband, who was absent from her seventeen years, as she supposed in Hol- 
 land; though, in fact, living disguised in a mean lodging in Westminster. From 
 Jermyn-street, Mrs. Howe removed to Brewer-street, Golden-square; Mr. Howe 
 often visited at an opposite house, whence he saw his wife in her dining-room 
 receiving company; and for seven years he went every Sunday to St. James's 
 Church, and there had a view of his wife, but was not recognised by her. (See 
 Dr. King's Anecdotes.) 
 
 King-street, leading to St. James's-square, has at the south-east 
 corner the St. James's Bazaar, described at page 36. Here is the St. 
 James's Theatre, designed by Beazley for Braham the singer ; it occupies 
 the site of Nerot's Hotel, No. 19, which cost Braham 80001. (See THEA- 
 TRES.) Nerot's was of the time of Charles II., and had a carved stair- 
 case, and panels painted with the story of Apollo and Daphne. Next 
 are Willis's Rooms (see ALMACK'S, p. 3) ; and opposite are Christie and 
 Manson's (late Christie's) auction-rooms, celebrated for sales of pictures 
 and articles of vertu. There are four streets in this neighbourhood 
 named from King, Charles, and the Duke of York. 
 
 In King-street, St. James's, was born, May 4, 1749, Charlotte Smith, the poet 
 and novelist; and here she mostly resided with her father, Mr. N. Turner, from 
 her twelfth to her lifteenth year, when she married Mr. Richard Smith, a "West 
 India merchant, aged 21. 
 
 St. James's -place, west" side of St. James's-street, was built about 
 1691. Addison lodged here in 1712. Here also lived Parnell, the poet ; 
 Mr. Secretary Craggs; Bishop Kennett, the antiquary, who died here 
 1728; John Wilkes lived here in 1756 "in very elegant lodgings;" and 
 Mrs. Robinson, the charming actress, lodged in No. 13. Lady Hervey 
 lived in a house built for her by Flitcroft, afterwards occupied by the 
 Earl of Moira (Marquis of Hastings). Spencer House, facing the Green 
 Park, was designed by Vardy ; the figures on the pediment by M. H. 
 Spong, a Dane. At No. 25 lived Lord Guildford, who had the library 
 lined with snake-wood from Ceylon, of which island he was Governor : 
 the next tenant was Sir Francis Burdett, who expired here Jan. 23, 1844, 
 of grief for the loss of his wife, who died thirteen days previously. At 
 No. 22, built by James Wyatt, R.A., has lived, since 1808, Samuel 
 Rogers, the poet: here Sheridan, Lord Byron, Sir James Mackintosh, 
 " Conversation" Sharp, and Thomas Moore, were often guests. 
 
 Mr. Rogers' choice collection of pictures, sculpture, Etruscan vases, antique 
 bronzes, and literary curiosities, may be seen through the introduction of any 
 accredited artist or connoisseur. The paintings include thes>e gems from the 
 Orleans Gallery: Christ bearing the Cross (A. Sacchi) ; "Noli me tangere" 
 (" mellow and glorious union of landscape and poetry"), (Titian); Holy Family 
 (Correggio); large Landscape (Claude) ; Christ on the Mount of Olives (Raphael). 
 Also, Christ disputing with the Doctors (Mazzolina di Ferrara), and the Coronation 
 of the Virgin (A. Caracci), from the Aldobrandini Palace; Triumphal Procession 
 
424 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 (Rubens), after Andrea Mantegna; St. Joseph and the Infant Saviour (Murillo); 
 Landscapes by Rubens and Domenichino, Gainsborough, and R. Wilson ; Virgin 
 and Child (Raphael); Knight in Armour (Giorgione); Allegory, and Forest 
 Scene, sunset (Rembrandt); Virgin and Child, with six Saints (L. Caracci); a 
 Mill, a small octagon (Claude); Head of Christ crowned with thorns (Guido); 
 Virgin and Child (Van Eyck); two large compositions (N. Poussin); Sketch for 
 Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of the Saviour (P. Veronese); Sketch for the 
 Miracle of St. Mark (Tintoretto); Study for the Apotheosis of Charles V. (Titian); 
 Portrait of Himself (Rembrandt); Infant Don Balthazar on horseback (Velasquez); 
 the Evils of War (Rubens); Virgin and Child, a small miniature (Hemmelinck); 
 three original Drawings (Raphael); black chalk Study (Michael Angelo); Puck, 
 the Strawberry Girl, the Sleeping Girl, Girl with Bird, Cupid and Psyche, and the 
 Painter's House at Richmond (Sir Joshua Reynolds); Napoleon upon a rock at 
 St. Helena (Haydon); and twelve Elizabethan miniatures. The paintings are 
 lighted by lamps with reflectors. Among the sculpture are: Cupid pouting and 
 Psyche couching, and Michael Angelo and Raphael, statuettes by Flaxman. Here 
 also are seven pictures by Stothard (including a copy of the Canterbury Pilgrims), 
 and a cabinet with his designs. Among the autographs is the original assignment 
 of Dryden's Virgil to Tonson, witnessed by Congreve. Milton's agreement with 
 Symons for Paradise Lost, long possessed by Mr. Rogers, was presented by him 
 to the British Museum in 1852. 
 
 (See also PALACES, St. James's; and SQUARES, St. James's.) 
 
 JEWS IN LONDON. 
 
 The Jews were settled in England in the Saxon period, A.D. 750. 
 In 1189, great numbers were massacred on the coronation-day of 
 Richard I., when they lived in the Jewries, extending along both sides 
 of the present Gresham-street to Basinghall-street, and Old Jewry on 
 the east; the first synagogue in the metropolis being at the north-west 
 corner of Old Jewry, which Stow describes as " a street so called of 
 Jews some time dwelling there and near adjoining." The only burial- 
 place appointed them in all England was the Jews' Garden, Red- 
 cross-street, Cripplegate ; until 1177, the 24th Henry II., when a spe- 
 cial place was assigned to them in every quarter where they dwelt. 
 (Stoiv.) The site of the present Je win-street, Aldersgate-street, an- 
 ciently " Leyrestowe," was granted them as a burial-place by Ed- 
 ward I. In 1262 there were slain in London 700 Jews, from one of 
 them having forced a Christian to pay more than 2*. per week as inte- 
 rest upon a loan of 20*. (Stow.) Finally, in the reign of Edward I. 
 (1287), 15,600 Jews were apprehended in one day, and all were ba- 
 nished from the kingdom. The Jews made no effort to return to Eng- 
 land till the protectorship of Oliver Cromwell, when they proposed to 
 pay 500,0007. for certain privileges, including the use of St. Paul's Ca- 
 thedral as a synagogue ; but 800,000/. was demanded, and the nego- 
 tiation was unsuccessful. They next applied to Charles II., then in 
 exile at Bruges, when the king proposed they should assist him with 
 money, arms, or ammunition, to be repaid ; and Dean Tucker remarks, 
 that the restoration of the Stuarts was attended with the return of the 
 Jews into Great Britain. The Jews themselves aver that they received 
 a private assent to their re-admission ; and Bishop Burnet asserts that 
 Cromwell brought a company of Jews over to England, and gave them 
 leave to build a synagogue. Dr. Tovey, however, in the Jewish registers, 
 finds that, by thtir own account, until the year 1663 the whole number 
 of Jews in England did not exceed twelve ;" so that the date of their re- 
 turn must be referred to the reign of Charles II. The first synagogue 
 was built by Portuguese Jews, in King-street, Duke's-place, in 1656; 
 and a school was founded by them in 1664, called " the Tree of Life." 
 The first German synagogue was built in Duke's-place in 1691, and oc- 
 cupied till 1790, when the present edifice was erected. (See p. 179.) 
 
 The principal Jewish Cemeteries are two on the north side of the 
 jMile-End-road belonging to the Portuguese Jews, and a third to the 
 
JEWS IN LONDON. 425 
 
 German Jews. The old Portuguese ground was first used 1657 : some 
 of the tombs bear bas-reliefs from Scripture; as the story of Joseph 
 and his brethren, Jacob wrestling with the angel, &c. Near Queen's 
 Elm, Fulham-road, is " the burying-ground of the "Westminster Con- 
 gregation of Jews," established 1816. 
 
 The number of Jews in London is 18,000, of whom 12,000 live in the 
 City. The Jewish quarter is bounded north by High-street, Spital- 
 fields; east by Middlesex-street (Petticoat-lane); south by Leadenhall- 
 street, Aldgate, and Whitechapel ; and west by Bishopsgate-street. 
 
 " Within this area, but especially about Bevis Marks, Houndsditch, St. Mary 
 Axe, and Petticoat-lane, you might readily imagine yourself transported to Frank- 
 fort, Warsaw, or any place enjoying a superabundant Jewish population. Here 
 every face is of the shape, and somewhat of the complexion, of a turkey-egg ; 
 every brow pencilled in an arch of exact ellipse ; every nose modelled after the 
 proboscis of a toucan ; locks as bushy and black as those of Absalom abound, and 
 beards of the patriarchal ages. Here, and hereabouts, Isaac kills beef and mut- 
 ton according to the old dispensation; Jacob receives accidental silver spoons, 
 and consigns gold watches to the crucible, kept always at white-heat in his little 
 dark cellar, and no questions asked. Here, at the corners, Rebecca disposes 
 of fried liver and 'tatoes, smoking hot, on little bright burnished copper plat- 
 ters. Solomon negotiates in the matter of rags; Esther rejoices in a brisk little 
 business of flat tish fried in oil a species of dainty in which the Jews alone 
 excel. Moses and Aaron keep separate marine stores, where every earthly thing 
 furtively acquired, from a chain-cable to a Cardigan, rinds a ready sale. Rachel, 
 albeit a widow, dispenses from behind the bar to the thirsty tribes. Ruth deals 
 wholesale in oranges and other foreign fruits. Melchizedec dabbleth in Hebrew 
 books and tracts. Absalom sells opium and Turkey rhubarb. Mordecai is a 
 'crimp,' the vulture of seafaring men. Nothing is to be seen above, below, 
 around, but Jewish physiognomies, Jewish houses, and Jewish occupations." 
 John Fisher Murray. 
 
 The Clothes' Exchange of Cutler-street, Houndsditch, is popu- 
 larly known as Rag Fair ; through which must pass, at one stage or 
 another, half the second-hand habiliments of the empire. The trade in 
 renovated clothes, too, is very great, so as to make the epithet " worn- 
 out" a popular error. But factitious arts make up the mighty business 
 of Rag Fair ; and Bevis Marks has long been the Oporto of London, 
 noted for its manufacture of " cheap port-wine." 
 
 Saturday in the Hebrew quarter is a day of devotion and rest : 
 
 every shop is shut ; and striking is the contrast between the almost 
 
 conventual silence on that day of Bevis Marks, Houndsditch, and St. 
 
 Mary Axe, and the bustle of Whitechapel, Bishopsgate, and Leadenhall. 
 
 | How the Christian Sabbath is kept is denoted by such a notice as this : 
 
 I " Business will commence at this Exchange on Sunday morning at 10 
 
 I o'clock. By order of the managers, Moses Abrahams'" Again, from 
 
 8 to 12 o'clock on Sunday morning, Duke's-place is the great market 
 
 for the supply of oranges to the itinerant Jews. 
 
 The wealth of the leading Jews in London is very great, and their 
 influence on the money-market is overwhelming. Their shipping trade 
 is very extensive. The largest clothing-establishments are carried on 
 by Jews. The trade in old silver goods, pictures, old furniture, china, 
 and curiosities, is chiefly carried on by Hebrew dealers. 
 
 Jews are admissible to all public offices and dignities, except to a 
 seat in Parliament. In 1828 baptised Jews were allowed to purchase 
 the freedom of the City of London, a privilege forbidden by the Court 
 of Aldermen in 1785. Mr. David Salomons (1835) and Sir Moses Mon- 
 tefiore (1837) have served as sheriffs of London, these being the first 
 Jews who filled that office; and Sir Moses is the first Jew ever knighted 
 in Britain. Mr. Salomons was elected Alderman for Cordwainers' 
 Ward in 1847, and is the first Jew who ever sat in the Court. 
 
 The Jews take care of their own poor ; and their schools, hospitals, 
 
426 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and asylums are numerous. You may see many poor Jews, but never 
 a Jewish beggar. In 1852, the amount of offerings during the sacred 
 festivals of the New Year, Day of Atonement, &c., for the relief of the 
 poor at the principal metropolitan Synagogues, were: Great Svna- 
 gogue, Duke's-place, 800/. ; Sephardim, ditto ; Bevis Marks, 500Z. ; 
 New, ditto ; Great St. Helen's, 600Z. ; Hamburgh, ditto ; Fenchurch- 
 street, 150Z. ; West London, ditto ; Margaret-street, 70/. total, 2rJOZ. 
 The Western Synagogue, St. Alban's-place, has abolished offerings, 
 substituting in lieu thereof a charge on the seats. In 1852 there were j 
 distributed in Passover week to the poor of the Synagogues and the j 
 itinerant poor, 55,000 pounds of Passover cakes, costing 91G/. 13*. 4d. 
 
 The Rabbinical College, or Beth Hamedrash, Smith V buildings, 
 Leadenhall-street, contains one of the most splendid Jewish libraries in i 
 Europe, and is open to the public by tickets : here lectures are deli- 
 vered gratuitously to the public, on Friday evenings, by learned Jews, j 
 
 Jew's-roWy at Chelsea, has been made by Wilkie the background of 
 his picture of " the Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette of the Bat- 
 tle of Waterloo," now in Apsley House. 
 
 " Jews'-row has a Teniers-like line of mean public-houses, lodging-houses, rag- 
 shops, and huckster-shops, on the right-hand, as you approach Chelsea CollcjjB I 
 It is the Pall Mall of the pensioners ; and its projecting gables, breaks, and other 
 picturesque attributes were admirably suited, in the artist's opinion, lor the 
 localities of the picture." Mrs. A. T. Thomson. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S GATE, CLERKENWELL, 
 
 Is nearly all that remains of the magnificent monastery of the Knights j 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, that chivralous order which for seven cen- J 
 turies " was the sword and buckler of Christendom in the Paynim 
 \var." The prior v was founded in 1100, and was almost of palatial 
 extent. King John resided here in 1212; and our sovereigns occasion- 
 ally held councils here. Three acres of ground lying without the 
 walls, between the land of the Abbot of Westminster and of the Prior 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, was called No-man's Land. In November 
 1320, Anthony d'Espagne, a wealthy merchant, who collected a bur- 
 densome duty of 2*. a tun on wine, "was dragged barefoot out of the j 
 City, and beheaded by the populace on No-maiis Land a fitting name j 
 for the site of such an atrocity ! In 1382 the whole commandery was 
 burnt by Wat Tyler's mob ; and the grand prior was beheaded in the i 
 courtyard, the site of St. John's- square, at the southern entrance of 
 which stands the gateway. Late in the 15th century, the rebuilding j 
 of the monastery w r as commenced by Prior Docwra, who, according to | 
 Camden, " increased it to the size of a palace," and completed this j 
 entrance about 1504, " as appeareth by the inscription over the gate- i 
 house yet remaining" (Stow). 
 
 In a Chapter held here llth Jan. 1514, Sir T. Docwra prior, a lease was ; 
 granted to Cardinal Wolsey of the manor of Hampton, which the most eminent j 
 physicians of England and learned doctors from Padua had selected as the healthiest 
 spot within twenty miles of London for the site of a palace for the cardinal. 
 In this curious document (Cotton. Mss. British Museum) is a grant of four loads 
 of timber annually for piles for the Hampton Weir, to be cut " in and fro Sejnt 
 John's Woode, Midd." The grant is printed in the Gentleman's Magazine, ] 
 January 1834. 
 
 Docwra was grand-prior from 1502 to 1520, and was the immediate 
 predecessor of the last superior of the house, who died of grief on 
 Ascension-day, 1540, when the priory was suppressed. Five years 
 subsequently," the site and precinct were granted to John Lord Lisle, 
 lor his service as high-admiral ; the church becoming a kind of store- 
 house " for the king's toyles and tents for hunting, and for the 
 warres." It was, however, undermined and blown up with gun- 
 
427 
 
 powder, and the materials were employed by the Lord Protector to 
 King Edward VI. in building Somerset Place ; the Gate also would 
 probably have been destroyed, but from its serving to define the pro- 
 perty. The Priory was partly restored upon the accession of Mary, 
 but again suppressed by Elizabeth. In 1604 the Gate was granted to 
 Sir Roger "NVilbraham for his life. Hollar's etchings shew the castel- 
 lated hospital, with the Gatehouse, flanked by strong walls, 1661. 
 
 At this time Clerkenwell was inhabited by people of condition. 
 (See CLERKENWELL, page 186.) Forty years later, fashion had tra- 
 velled westward ; and the Gate became the printing-office of Edward 
 Cave, who, in 1731, published here the first number of the Gentleman's 
 Magazine, which to this day bears the Gate for its vignette. Dr. John- 
 son was first engaged upon the magazine here by Cave in 1737 : " his 
 practice was to shut himself up in a room assigned to him at St. John's 
 Gate, to which he would not suffer any one to approach, except the 
 compositor or Cave's boy for matter, which, as fast as he composed, he 
 tumbled out at the door." (Hawkins.) At the Gate Johnson first 
 met Richard Savage ; and here in Cave's room, when visitors called, he 
 ate his plate of victuals behind the screen, his dress being "so shabby 
 that he durst not make his appearance." One day, while thus con- 
 cealed, Johnson heard Walter Harte, the poet and historian, highly 
 praise the Life of Savage. Garrick, when he first came to London, 
 frequently called upon Johnson at the Gate ; and at Cave's request, in 
 the room over the great arch, and with the assistance of a few journey- 
 man-printers to read the other parts, Garrick represented the principal 
 character in Fielding's farce of the Mock Doctor. Goldsmith was also 
 a visitor here. When Cave grew rich, he had St. John's Gate painted, 
 instead of his arms, on his carriage, and engraven on his plate. After 
 Cave's death in 1754, the premises became the " Jerusalem" public- 
 house, and the " Jerusalem Tavern." 
 
 The latter name was assumed from the Jerusalem Tavern, Red Lion-street, 
 in whose dank and cobwebbed vaults John Britton served an apprenticeship to a 
 wine-merchant; and in reading at intervals by candle-light, first evinced that love 
 of literature which has characterised his long life of industry and integrity. He 
 remembers Clerkenwell in 1787, with St John's Priory-church and cloisters; 
 when Spa-fields were pasturage for cows; the old garden-mansions of the aristo- 
 cracy remained in Clerkenwell close ; and Sadler's Wells, Islington Spa, Merlin's 
 Cave, and Bagnigge Wells, were nightly crowded with gay company. 
 
 In 1845, under the new Metropolitan Buildings' Act, a survey of 
 
 St. John's Gate was made, and a notice given to the then owner to 
 
 j repair it ; and by the aid of " the freemasons of the church," and Mr. 
 
 W. P. Griffith, architect, the north and south fronts have been restored. 
 
 The gateway is a good specimen of groining of the 15th century, 
 with moulded ribs, and bosses ornamented with shields of the arms of 
 the Priory, Prior Docwra, &c. The south or principal front has a 
 double projection ; has numerous small windows ; and a principal 
 window over the crown of the arch in each front, in the wide and 
 obtusely. pointed style. The south front bears the arms of France and 
 England, and the north or inner front those of the Priory and Docwra. 
 In the west side of the gateway is an ancient carved oak door- 
 head, discovered in 1813, when that part of the building (now a coal- 
 shed) was converted into a watch-house for St. John's parish. In the 
 spandrels are the monastery arms, as also in a low door-case of the 
 west tower from the north side of the Gate; these spandrels also bear 
 a cock and a hawk, and a hen and a lion. This was the entrance to 
 Cave's printing-office. The east basement is the tavern bar, with a 
 beautifully moulded ceiling. The stairs are Elizabethan. The prin- 
 cipal room over the arch has been despoiled of its window-muUioiis 
 
428 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and groined roof. The foundation-wall of the Gate face is 10 feet 7 
 inches thick, and the upper walls are nearly 4 feet, hard red brick, 
 stone-cased : the view from the top of the staircase-turret is extensive. 
 In excavating there have been discovered the original pavement, 3 feet 
 below the Gate ; and the Priory walls, north, south, and west. 
 
 St. John's Church, in St. John's-square, is built upon the chancel 
 and side aisles of the old Priory-church, and upon its crypt ; the 
 capitals of the columns, ribbed mouldings, lancet windows, 'are fine; 
 from the key-stone of each arch hangs an iron lamp-ring : in 1849, the 
 crypt was found by excavation to have extended much further west- 
 ward. The turret-clock belonged to old St. James's Church, as did 
 also the silver head of the beadle's staff (James II. 1685). Here, too, 
 is a portable baptismal bowl, with a scriptural inscription, and " Deo 
 est sacris :" it was formerly used as the church font. (See Ye History 
 of ye Priory and Gate of St. John. By B. Foster, 1851.) 
 
 ST. KATHERINE'S HOSPITAL, 
 
 Or "St. Katherine's at the Tower," was originally founded in 1148, 
 by Maud, wife of King Stephen ; when the site, with a mill, was pur- 
 chased for 61. a year : its custody was conferred on the prior of the 
 Holy Trinity, Maud reserving to herself and the succeeding queens of 
 England the nomination of the master of the Hospital. In 1273 it 
 was dissolved,* and refounded by Queen Eleanor, widow of Henry III , 
 for a master, three brothers, chaplains, and three sisters, ten poor 
 bedeswomen, and six poor scholars, to lodge within the building ; the 
 nomination being reserved as heretofore. 
 
 Queen Eleanor's charter states the object of her foundation to be "for the 
 health of the soul of her late husband, and of the souls of the preceding and suc- 
 ceeding kings and queens." One of the priests was daily required to sing a 
 mass; another to "celebrate daily divine service, solemnly and devoutly, for 
 the foresaid souls;" and on Edmund the Confessor's day, Nov. 15, the day of the 
 death of her husband King Henry, there should be bestowed one halfpenny, in 
 form aforesaid, upon one thousand poor men. 
 
 The Hospital was enlarged by Philippa, Queen of Edward III., who 
 liberally aided the rebuilding of the church in 1340, and founded chan- 
 tries; Richard II. also founded a chantry, and Henry VI. rebuilt the 
 church, and granted to the Hospital the tolls of a twenty-one days' fair 
 annually on Tower-hill, besides other privileges, which a fraudulent j 
 master sold to the City in 1560 for 456Z. 13*. 4rf. At the Dissolution, | 
 Anne Boleyne claimed 'the Hospital as part of her dowry, and the pe- 
 culiar property of the queens consort of England ; it was saved from 
 spoliation : the annual revenues were then 315Z. 14s. 2d., a great in- 
 come. The foundation was not a monastery; for the brothers were 
 secular priests, arid the sisters made no vows, but were permitted to 
 go abroad, provided they returned "by curfew." 
 
 In 1442, the district of the Hospital was made a royal precinct ; and 
 no one could be arrested here for debt, except by an order from the | 
 Board of Green Cloth. "Within the walls was born Verstegan, the an- ; 
 tiqimry ; and here Lilly, the alchemist, wrote his celebrated Testament. 
 
 The precinct possessed both a spiritual and temporal court : the 
 former a royal jurisdiction for all ecclesiastical causes, probate of wills, 
 &c. ; in the temporal court the high-steward of the jurisdiction of St. 
 Katherine's presided ; and the court had its high-bailiff, prothonotary, 
 and prison. 
 
 * Had not the original Hospital been dissolved, St. Katherine's would now be 
 the most ancient ecclesiastical community in the kingdom ; and it is still the 
 fourth in point of antiquity, coming after Peter House, Cambridge; and Merton 
 and Ealliol Colleges, Oxford. 
 
ST. KATHERINE'S HOSPITAL. 429 
 
 In 1698, the Lord Chancellor Somers, as visitor, drew up rules and 
 
 last performed Oct. 30, 1825 (see Hone's Every-day Booh, vol. i.), 
 had lofty windows, the whole height of the structure : it is engraved 
 by Hollar, 1660; and described by Dr. Ducarel, the antiquary, who 
 Jwas buried here. The church, cloisters, and monastic houses were re- 
 Imoved in 1825-6, with a great number of tenements, described by 
 ptow as " homely cottages, having inhabitants, English and strangers, 
 piore in number than in some cities in England." The compensation 
 [then made to the Hospital, under the direction of Lord Chancellor 
 JEldon, amounted to 125,OOOZ., as the value of the precinct estate; 
 p6,000. for building a new hospital ; 2000Z. for the purchase of a site ; 
 land smaller sums to those whose interests suffered by the removal. 
 
 Meanwhile, the Hospital was rebuilt on the eastern side of the Re- 
 kent's Park, by Poynter, in the ancient ecclesiastical and domestic 
 fstyle : it consists of a chapel and chapter-house (see page 134), dwell- 
 ings for the brethren and sisters, lodgers, &c. ; and opposite, a hand- 
 borne residence for the master. In the courtyard is a conduit; and 
 ijupon the several buildings are the royal and collegiate arms, and in- 
 jscriptions : " Elianora fundavit ;" " Fundavit Mathilda, 1148 ;" " In hoc 
 llsitu restit. 1828," &c. 
 
 In the church, removed from the ancient edifice, is the tomb of 
 Uohn Holland, Duke of Exeter, and his two wives ; the setting up and 
 restoration of which cost nearly a thousand pounds : here also is the 
 Icurious octagonal wooden pulpit, carved with views of the ancient 
 (Hospital and its gates;* and beneath each compartment, EZRA THE 
 
 BCRIBE STOOD UPON A. PULPIT OF WOOD WHICH HE HAD MAT>E 
 
 IFOR THE PREACHIN Neh e chap. viii. 4. This pulpit was given to 
 i the church by Sir Julius Caesar, appointed Master of the Hospital by 
 [Queen Elizabeth in 1596. 
 
 I Speed, Dugdale, Ducarel, Ellis, and other antiquaries, are of opinion that the 
 >JQueens Consort or Dowager, having once possessed the right of the Hospital 
 .(appointments, the death of the King does not alienate it, it having existed in the 
 (person of the Consort during his life ; that they nominate, plena jure, the master, 
 Imrothers, and chaplains ; that they may increase or lessen the number, or remove 
 jthem altogether, alter any statute, or make new ones at pleasure; and that when 
 there is no Queen Consort, the Queen Dowager has the right of appointing; that 
 [when there is neither Queen Consort nor Dowager, the reigning sovereign has 
 the power of nomination. In 1840, on the death of the master, General Sir 
 Herbert Taylor (successively private secretary to George III. and Queen Charlotte, 
 and the Duke of York), there being no Queen Consort, the patronage fell to the 
 [Queen Dowager Adelaide, who appointed the Vice-Chamberlain of her House- 
 jhold, the Hon. W. Ashley, the present Master. 
 
 The School, now attached, consists of thirty boys and twenty girls, 
 who are educated, clothed, and apprenticed : they dine at the Hospital 
 every Sunday. The colour of the boys' clothes is green ; but the sta- 
 tute of Queen Philippa ordains, that the brethren shall not wear 
 "green cloaths, as tending to dissoluteness." The affairs of the Hos- 
 pital are managed by the chapter of brethren (in orders) and sisters 
 (unmarried or widows). 
 
 The bedesmen and women are appointed by the chapter, are non- 
 resident, and receive 10Z. per annum for life. The appointment of the 
 master and brethren and sisters is held by her Majesty the Queen, the 
 
 thirty-second ro 
 aum; expendi 
 
 * The site of the principal gate "by the Tower" is still called "Iron Gate. 
 
 second royal patroness. The Hospital income is about 6000Z. per 
 annum; expenditure, about 5000Z. Master's income, 12001. a year; 
 
430 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 brother, 300Z. ; sister, 200Z. The real alms-people are non-resident ; 
 and sisters have let their residences in the Hospital at 90Z. a year each. 
 
 KEXNIXGTOX, 
 
 A manor of Lambeth, is named from the Saxon Lynenze and tun, 
 the place or town of the king ; and was occasionally a royal residence 
 until the reign of Charles I. (see KENNINGTON MANOR-HOUSE, p. 392). 
 Camden says, though erroneously, " of this retreat of our ancient 
 kings neither the name nor ruins are now to be found." At Kennington 
 Green, in 1852, was built a large Vestry Hall, in semi-classic style, for 
 the district of Lambeth. In Kennington-lane is the School of the Friendly 
 Society of Licensed Victuallers, built 1836. Kennington Common (about 
 20 acres) was formerly noted for its cricket-matches, pugilism, and iti- 
 nerant preachers, and as the exercise-ground of volunteer regiments. 
 It was the common place of execution for Surrey, before the erection of 
 the County Gaol, Horsemonger-lane ; and on the site of St. Mark's 
 Church, south of the Common, some of the rebels of 1745, tried by spe- j 
 cial commission in Southwark, were hanged, drawn, and quartered : 
 among them was "Jemmy Dawson," the hero of Shenstone's touching 
 ballad; and of another ditty, set to music by Dr. Arne, and sung about 
 the streets. On Kennington Common was held, April 10, 1848, the 
 great revolutionary meeting of "Chartists," brought to a ridiculous 
 issue by the unity and resolution of the Metropolis, backed by the judi- 
 cious measures of the Government, and the masterly military precau- 
 tions of the late Duke of Wellington. (S. Warren, F.R.S.) In 1852, 
 the Common, with the site of the Pound of the Manor of Kennington, 
 were granted by Act of Parliament, on behalf of the Prince of Wales, 
 as part of the Duchy of Cornwall estate, to be enclosed and laid out as ; 
 " Pleasure-grounds for the recreation of the public ; but if it cease to ; 
 be so maintained, it shall revert to the Duchy. ' They comprise twelve j 
 acres, disposed in grass-plots, and planted with shrub sand evergreens; ', 
 and at the main entrance have been reconstructed the model cottages 
 originally built at the expense of Prince Albert for the Great Exhibi- ' 
 tion of 1851 : the walls are built with hollow and glazed brick, and the 
 floors are brick and stucco ; the whole being fireproof. 
 
 KENSAL GREEN, 
 
 Harrow-road, formerly a hamlet of "unlettered fame," has become 
 celebrated as the seat of the first cemetery established for London, whose 
 many hundred tombs whiten the high ground in the prospect. (See 
 CEMETERIES, page 68.) A twin-towered church has been built here ; and 
 the busy railway runs close to the walls of the silent burial-ground : 
 here is another novelty of our age, the works of the Western Gas 
 Company, for manufacturing gas from Cannel Coal. In the hamlet 
 was the Plough public-house, reputed to have been built as early as 
 1500: it was a haunt of George Morland, who, with all his dissipation, 
 painted 4000 pictures during a lifetime of 40 years. 
 
 KEXSIXGTOX, BROMPTON, AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE. 
 KENSINGTON, a mile and a half west of Hyde-Par-k-corner, contains 
 the hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravelpits, and part of Little 
 Chelsea, now West Brompton ; but the royal palace, and about twenty 
 other houses north of the road, are in the parish of St. Margaret, West- 
 minster. On the south side, the parish of Kensington extends beyond 
 the Gore, anciently Kyng's Gore, the principal houses between which 
 and Knightsbridge are also in St. Margaret's. The old church (St. 
 Mary Abbot's) is described at page 141. The village contains several 
 
KENSINGTON, BROMPTON, AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE. 431 
 
 interesting houses of "kingly Kensington" (see page 392), which mostly 
 date from the enlargement of the royal palace. The mineral spring which 
 it once possessed may have contributed to the celebrity of Kensington. 
 Holland House is described at page 374. Nearly opposite, in the Ken- 
 sington-road, is the Adam and Eve public-house, where Sheridan, on his 
 way to or from Holland House, regularly stopped for a dram; and there 
 he ran up a long bilji, which Lord Holland had to pay. (Moore's Diary.} 
 Kensington Palace Gardens lead from the High-street of Kensington to 
 the Bayswater-road, and contain several costly mansions; including one 
 of German- Gothic design, built for the Earl of Harrington in 1852. On 
 Campden Hill is the observatory of Sir James South, one of the founders 
 of the Royal Astronomical Society : among the working instruments is 
 a 7-feet transit instrument, a 4-feet transit circle, and one of the equato- 
 rials with which, between 1821 and 1823, Sir James South (at Blackman- 
 street, Southwark) and Sir John Herschel made a catalogue of 380 
 ouble stars. In Little Chelsea was born, in 1674, Charles Boyle, fourth 
 Earl of Orrery, patron of Graham who first constructed an orrery. 
 
 In Orbell's-buildings, Kensington, lodged Sir Isaac Newton from January 
 725 until his death, March 20, 1727, in his 85th year. His body, on March 28, 
 ay in state in the Jerusalem Chamber, and was thence buried in Westminster 
 U)bey. 
 
 At Kensington Gore, in 1808, Mr. Wilberforce had a cheerful house, the 
 ostliness of which made him uneasy, lest it should curtail his charities. 
 Sore House was tenanted by the Countess of Blessington, whose Cu- 
 iosities were sold here in 1849. The house was opened by Soyer as 
 restaurant (" Symposium") during the Exhibition of 1851. 
 In 1852, the Gore House estate, 21^ acres, was purchased for.60,000/. as a site 
 or a new National Gallery; and the Baron de Villars's estate, adjoining, 48 
 ores, fronting the Brompton-road, was bought for 153,500/. as a site for a Mu- 
 eum of Manufactures: these localities being recommended for the dryness of 
 he soil, and as the only ground safe for future years amidst the growth of the 
 letropolis. Second Report of the Commisfi'wners for the Exhibition of 1851. 
 
 The yellow gravel of Hyde Park and Kensington, so often found covering the 
 -ondon clay, is, comparatively speaking, of very modern date, and consists of 
 lightly rolled, and, for the most part, angular fragments, in which portions of 
 he white opaque coating of the original chalk -flint remain uncovered. Sir 
 Charles Lyell, F.G.S. 
 
 The eastern extremity of the Gore, now the site of Ennismore 
 Jardens, is the highest point of ground between Hyde-Park-corner 
 nd Windsor Castle. (Faulkner's Kensington.) Kingston, next Ennis- 
 lore, and now Listowel, House, was the residence of the Duchess of 
 vingston, "the notified Bet Cheatlev, Duchess of Knightsbridge," who 
 led here in 1788. Here in 1842 died the Marquis Wellesley ; in the 
 orridor is a large window, a garden-scene, painted by John Martin 
 ^hen he was a pupil of Muss. At Old Brompton, upon the site of 
 'lorida Tea-gardens, was Orford Lodge, built for the late Duchess of 
 Gloucester, and subsequently tenanted by the Princess Sophia of Glou- 
 ester ; and the Right Hon. George Canning, who was here visited by 
 iueen Caroline. The house was afterwards called " Gloucester Lodge," 
 nd was taken down in 1852. Here also was Hale or " Cromwell" 
 louse (see page 393), taken down in 1853. The large space of ground 
 etween the Kensington and Brompton roads included the Brompton 
 'ark nursery (see GARDENS, page 322) ; and here (in 1853) were re- 
 lains of the wall of Brompton Park. Brompton Hall, mostly modern, 
 as a noble Elizabethan room, wherein Lord Burghley is said to have 
 eceived Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 BROMPTON has long been frequented by invalids for its genial air. 
 See CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, page 380, and HOLY TRINITY CHURCH, 
 age 130.) At No. 7 Amelia-place died in 1817 the Right Hon. J. 
 
432 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 P. Curran. In Brompton-square, at No. 13, died Charles Incledon, 
 the singer, 1826 ; and in the same year, at No. 22, George Colman the 
 younger. At the Grange, taken down in 1842, lived Braham, the singer : 
 at No. 45 Brompton-row, Count Rumford, the heat-philosopher ; Rev. 
 "W. Beloe, the " Sexagenarian ;" and Sir Ricliard Phillips, when writing 
 his Million of Facts. At No. 14 Queen's-row Arthur Murphy died in 
 1805, aged 77. 
 
 KNIGHTSBRIDGE lies in the parishes of Chelsea, Kensington, and 
 St. Margaret, Westminster. It was anciently written Knyghtbrigg; 
 and in 1362, all oxen, hogs, &c. were ordered to be killed here and at 
 Stratford, and not within the City. The name is traceable to the 
 manor of Neate, and a stone bridge near Hyde-Park-corner, mentioned 
 by Norden in 1593. Here is a district Chapel, formerly attached to a 
 lazar-house (see p. 384). Westward is Albert-gate, Hyde Park, opened 
 1846 : the stags upon the piers were formerly at the Ranger's Lodge, 
 Green Park, and were modelled from a pair of prints by Bartolozzi. The 
 ground, with the site of the large and lofty houses east and west, wasi 
 purchased by the Crown from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster,) 
 when the Cannon Brewery was removed : the house east was bought 
 for 15,OOOJ. by Mr. Hudson, once "the Railway King." 
 
 Immediately west of St. George's Hospital (see page 381), at No. 14, Johr 
 Listen, the comedian, lived several years, and here he died, March 22, 1846 
 Listen was born in Norris-street, Haymarket, in 1776, and was educated ir 
 Archbishop Tenison's school : he first appeared on the stage, at the Hayinarke' 
 Theatre, in 1805 ; and retired at the Olympic Theatre in 1837 : he died wortl 
 40,000/. 
 
 In 1842, opposite the Conduit in Hyde Park (see page 230), was 
 built the St. George's Gallery, for the exhibition of Mr. Dunn's Chinesj 
 Collection ; subsequently occupied by Mr. Gordon Cumming's Africaij 
 Exhibition, and Bartlett'and Beverly's Diorama of the Holy Land. 
 
 The original entrance was copied from a Chinese summer-house, inscribed 
 " Ten thousand Chinese things." The collection, formed by Mr. Nathan Dunn 
 in twelve years, and first exhibited in Philadelphia, consisted of a vast assem 
 Wage from China of its idols, temples, pagodas, and bridges ; arts and sciences' 
 manufactures and trades; parlours and drawing-rooms; clothes, finery, and orna 
 ments ; weapons of war, vessels, dwellings, &c. Here were life-size groups of i 
 temple of idols, a council of mandarins, and Chinese priests, soldiers, men c' 
 letters, ladies of rank, tragedians, barbers, shoemakers, blacksmiths, boat-womer, 
 servants, &c., amidst set scenes and furnished dwellings. Here was a twc 
 storied house from Canton, besides shops from its streets ; here were persons c; 
 rank in sumptuous costumes, artisans in their working-clothes, and altogethe 
 such a picture of Chinese social life as the European world had never before seer! 
 Part of the collection was subsequently exhibited in 1851, in a gay pavilion bui; 1 
 for the occasion west of Albert Gate; the site of which is now occupied by j 
 handsome five-storied mansion. 
 
 Westward is St. Paul's Church (see page 155) ; on the Kensingto 
 road are the Cavalry Barracks ; nearly opposite is the Phoenix Flooi 
 cloth Manufactory, "founded by Nathan Smith, 1754, being the fin 
 ever established; burnt down 1794 ; restored 1795; rebuilt 1824." 
 the rear of Ennismore-place, opposite the site of the Crystal Palace i 
 Hyde Park, is All Saints' Church, in the Lombardic style, by A'ull 
 amy, consecrated 1849; incumbent, Rev. W. Harness, A.M., one ( 
 the editors of Shakspeare. 
 
 At Rutland Gate (on the site of a mansion of the Dukes of Rutland) is tl 
 house of John Sheepshanks, Esq., and his collection of 228 pictures (with tv 
 exceptions), by modern British artists : including 6 works by A. Callcott, R.A 
 W. Collins, R.A., 7; John Constable, R.A., 5; C. W. Cope, R.A., 7; W. Ett 
 R.A., 2 : lid win Landseer, R.A., 9; C. Leslie, R.A., 9 ; W. Mulready, R.A., 1.' 
 W. Redgrave, R A., 6; C. Stanfield, R.A., 3; J. M. W. Turner, R.A., 5; 
 Uwins, R.A., 4; T. Webster, R.A., 5. The collection can only be seen by lett 
 of introduction . 
 
KENSINGTON GARDENS. 433 
 
 Knightsbridge was formerly a noted " Spring Garden," with several 
 taverns of gay and questionable character ; and late in the last century, 
 the road thence to Kensington was infested by footpads. 
 
 In the trial of a highwayman for robbery in 1752, the principal witness deposed, 
 " the chaise to the Devizes having been robbed two or three times, as the post-boy 
 told him, near the Halt-way House between Knightsbridge and Kensington, he, 
 the witness, set out in the chaise, was stopped near the house by the prisoner on 
 foot, who was taken ; the postboy having just before stated, that if they did not 
 meet the highwayman between Knightsbridge and Kensington they should not 
 see him at all" proving the frequency of such occurrences in that neighbourhood. 
 
 Again, within the memory of man, at Kensington a bell used to be rung at 
 intervals, to muster the people returning to town. As soon as a band was as- 
 sembled sufficiently numerous to insure mutual protection, it set off; and so on. 
 
 Kensington and Chelsea contain the largest unrepresented town 
 population in the kingdom : Kensington, 119,990; Chelsea, 56,543. 
 
 KENSINGTON GARDENS. 
 
 These delightful gardens, which include an area of above 350 acres, 
 did not, when purchased by William III., soon after his accession, ex- 
 ceed 2G acres. In 1691 they were described by the Rev. Dr. Hamilton, 
 to the Society of Antiquaries, as " not great, nor abounding with fine 
 plants. The orange, lemon, myrtle, and what other trees they had 
 there in summer, were all removed to London or Mr. Wise's green- 
 house at Brompton Park, a little mile from there." Queen Anne added 
 30 acres. Evelyn notes: " Sept. 2d, 1701. I went to Kensington and 
 saw the houses, plantations, and gardens, the work of Mr. Wise, who 
 was there to receive me." (Diary, vol. ii. p. 75.) Bowack, in 1705, 
 described the gardens as " beautified with all the elegances of art (statues 
 and fountains excepted). There is a noble collection of foreign plants, 
 and fine neat greens, which makes it pleasant all the year ; the whole, 
 with the house, not being above 26 acres. Her Majesty has pleased 
 lately to plant near 30 acres more towards the north, separated from 
 the rest only by a stately greenhouse, not yet finished." Thus, pre- 
 vious to 1705 Kensington Gardens did not extend farther north than 
 the conservatory ; and the eastern boundary was nearly in the line 
 of the broad walk which crosses before the east front of the palace. 
 The kitchen -gardens, which formerly extended northward towards 
 the gravel-pits, and the 30 acres north of the conservatory, added bv 
 Queen Anne to the pleasure - gardens, may have been the 55 acre's 
 " detached and severed from the park, lying in the north-west corner 
 thereof," granted in the 16th of Charles II. to Hamilton, Ranger of the 
 (Park, and Birch, Auditor of Excise, the same to be walled and planted 
 with "pippins and red -streaks," on condition of their furnishing 
 japples or cider for the King's use. At the end of the avenue leading 
 Tom the south front of the palace to the wall on the Kensington- 
 road, is a large and lofty architectural alcove, built by Queen Anne's 
 orders ; so that Kensington Palace, in her reign, seems to have stood 
 n the midst of fruit and pleasure gardens, with pleasant alcoves on the 
 west and south, and a stately conservatory on the east, the whole con- 
 fined between the Kensington and Uxbfidge roads, the west side of 
 Palace Green, and the broad walk before the east front of the palace. 
 Addison, in the Spectator, No. 477, dignifies Wise and London as the 
 icroic poets of gardening, and is enraptured with their treatment of 
 ;he upper garden at Kensington, which was at first nothing but a 
 gravel-pit ; the hollow basin and its little plantations, and a circular 
 nount of trees, as if scooped out of the hollow, greatly delighting the 
 ;ssayist. Tickell opens his elegant eclogue with a glance at the morn- 
 g promenade of his day; where 
 
434 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " The dames of Britain oft in crowds repair 
 To gravel walks and unpolluted air : 
 Here, while the town in damps and darkness lies, 
 They breathe in sunshine, and see azure skies ; 
 Each walks with robes of various dyes bespread, 
 Seems from afar a moving tulip-bed, 
 AVhere rich brocades and glossy damasks glow, 
 And chintz, the rival of the showery bow." 
 
 Caroline, queen of George II. added to the Gardens nearly 300 
 acres from Hyde Park, and had a canal formed at the cost of 6000Z.; 
 whilst with the soil dug was raised a mount to the south-east, with a i 
 revolving prospect-house. The Gardens were planted and laid out by 
 Bridgeman, who banished verdant sculpture, but adhered to straight 
 walks and clipped hedges, varied with a wilderness and open groves. 
 A plan of 1762 shews the formal Dutch style on the north of the 
 palace. On the north-east, a fosse and low wall reaching from the 
 Uxbridge-road to the Serpentine at once shut in the Gardens, and con-, 
 ducted the eye along their central vista, over the Serpentine (formed 
 between 1730 and 1733), to its extremity; and across the Park to the' 
 east of Queen Anne's gardens, immediately in front of the palace,; 
 a reservoir was formed into "the round pond;" therce long vistas! 
 were carried through the wood that encircled it, to the head of the: 
 Serpentine, to the fosse and Bridgeman ? s ha-ha wall, affording a view* 
 of the Park; and to the mount already mentioned, which, with its: 
 evergreens and temple, has disappeared within recollection. 
 After King William 
 
 took up his abode in the palace, a court end of 
 
 the town gathered round it. The large gardens laid out by Queen 
 Caroline were opened to the public on Saturdays, when the king anci 
 court went to Richmond; all visitors were then required to appear ir 
 full-dress. "When the Court ceased to reside at Kensington, the Gardens 
 were thrown open in the spring and summer; and next open throughout 
 the year. On stated days in the London season, military bands perform 
 
 Of late years Kensington Gardens have been greatly improved b; 
 drainage, relaying out, and the removal of walls and substitution o' 
 open iron railing. Viewed from near the palace, eastward are threi 
 avenues through dense masses of ancient trees. Immediately in fron 
 of the palace is a quaintly-designed flower-garden, between which am 
 Kensington are some stately old elm-trees. The broad walk, 50 feet ii 
 breadth, was once the fashionable promenade. On the southern margii 
 of the Gardens is a walk, bordered by the newer and rarer kind o 
 shrubs, each labelled with its Latin and English name, and its countn 
 The most picturesque portion of the Gardens, however, is at the en 
 trance from near the bridge over the Serpentine, where is a delightfv 
 walk east of the water, beneath some noble old Spanish chestnut-tree; 
 The elegant stone bridge across the west end of the Serpentine ws 
 designed by Sir John Rennie in 1826, and cost 36 ; 500Z. A pair of mag 
 nificent Cdalbrook-dale iron gates (from the Great Exhibition of 1851 
 has been erected adjoining the southern lodge ; and several of th 
 double seats (dos-a-dos) from the Exhibition building are placed here. 
 
 Queen Anne's Banqueting -house, north of the palace, completed i 
 1705, is a fine specimen of brickwork : the south front has rusticate 
 columns supporting a Doric pediment, and the ends have semicircula 
 recesses. The interior, decorated with Corinthian columns, was fitte 
 up as a drawing-room, music-room, and ball-room; and thither tl 
 queen was conveyed in her chair from the western end of the palac 
 Here were given full-dress fetes a la Watteau, with a profusion ( 
 " brocaded robes, hoops, fly-caps, and fans," songs by the court Ivns 
 &c. But when the court left Kensington, Queen Anne's building wi 
 converted into an orangery and greenhouse. (See PALACES.) 
 
KENT-STREET, SOUTHWARK KENTISH TOWN. 435 
 
 KENT- STREET, SOUTHWARK, 
 
 Originally "Kentish-street," is a wretched and profligate part of 
 St. George's parish. In 1633 it was described as "very long and ill- 
 built, chiefly inhabited by broom- men and mumpers;" and for ages it 
 has been noted for its turners' shops, and broom and heath yards. 
 Evelyn tells of one Burton, a broom-man, and his wife, who sold kitchen- 
 stuff "in Kent-street, whom God so blessed that Burton became a very 
 rich and a very honest man, and Sheriff of Surrey. At the east end of 
 Kent-street, in 1847, was unearthed a pointed arched bridge of the loth 
 century, probably erected by the monks of Bermondsey Abbey, lords 
 of the manor. In Rocque's Map, 1750, (when the Kent-road was lined 
 with hedge-rows,) this arch, called Lock's-bridge, from being near the 
 Lock Hospital, carries the road over a stream which runs from New ing- 
 ton-fields to Bermondsey. Yet, what long lines of conquest and devotion, 
 of turmoil and rebellion, of victory, gorgeous pageantry, and grim death, 
 have poured through this narrow inlet of old London ! The Roman 
 invader came along the rich marshy ground now supporting Kent- 
 street (says Bagford, in a letter to his brother-antiquary Hearne) ; 
 thousands of pious and weary pilgrims have passed along this causeway 
 to St. Thomas of Canterbury ; here the Black Prince rode with his 
 royal captive from Poictiers, and the victor of Agincourt was carried in 
 kingly state to his last earthly bourne. By this route Cade advanced 
 with his 20,000 insurgents from Blackheath to Southwark ; and the 
 ill-fated Wyat marched to discomfiture and death. And to the for- 
 mation of the Dover-road, in our time, Kent-street continued part of 
 the great way from Dover and the Continent to the Metropolis. 
 
 KENTISH TOWN, 
 
 A hamlet of St. Pancras, and a prebendal manor of St. Paul's, was 
 formerly written Kaunteloe, and is the property of the Camden family. 
 Here was the Castle tavern, which had a Perpendicular stone chimney- 
 piece ; the house was taken down in 1849 : close to its southern wall 
 was a sycamore planted by Lord Nelson, when a boy, at the entrance 
 to his uncle's cottage ; the tree has been spared. Opposite were the old 
 Assembly-rooms, taken down in 1852 : here was a table with an inscrip- 
 tion by an invalid, who recovered his health by walking to this spot 
 every morning to take his breakfast in front of the house. Kentish 
 Town Chapel, originally built by Wyatt in 1784, has been enlarged and 
 altered to the Early Decorated style : here is buried Grignion, the en- 
 graver. (See page 170.) In 1848 was built here a large Congregational 
 Nonconformist Chapel in ecclesiastical style. (See p. 174.) In Gospel- 
 terrace is the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Alexis, established 1847. 
 In 1848 were erected the National Infant and Sunday Schools, by 
 Hakewill, upon the plan of the Committee of Privy Council on Educa- 
 tion ; the site is part of an estate bequeathed bv the witty divine, Dr. 
 South, to Christ Church, Oxford. Near Highgate Rise is the Grove, 
 where Charles Mathews the elder made his collection of paintings, 
 prints, and other memorials of theatrical history, now at the Garriek 
 Club-house. (See p. 194.) Nearly opposite was " a miniature Wan- 
 stead House," the villa of Mr. Philip Hurd, of the Inner Temple, who 
 collected here a costly library, including the celebrated .Breviarium 
 Romanum, purchased by him, in 1827, from Mr. Dent's library for 378/. : 
 it consists of more than 500 leaves of vellum, illuminated 'by Flemish 
 painters in Spain, of the 15th century, with miniatures and borders of 
 flowers, fruit, and grotesque figures, upon a gold ground. (See Dibdin's 
 Bibliographical Decameron, vol. i. pp. li.3-7.) The villa was taken 
 
436 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 down in 1851. The river Fleet, which runs in the rear of the hamlet, 
 has its source from springs on the south side of the hill between Hamp- 
 stead and Highgate. In July 1846 were sold 27 acres of building- 
 ground in Gospel-Oak and Five- Acre Fields, between Kentish Town 
 and Hampstead, for nearly 4QOL an acre. Beneath the Gospel Oak 
 preached some of our earliest Reformers, and Whitefield the Methodis 1 ;. 
 
 In the last century, the road between the metropolis and Kentish- Town was 
 beset with highwaymen. In the Morning Chronicle and London Advertiser. Jan. 
 9, 1773. appears: " Thursday night some villains robbed the Kentish Town stage, 
 and stripped the passengers of their money, watches, and buckles. In the hurry 
 they spared the pockets of Mr. Corbyn, the druggist; but he, content to have 
 neighbour's fare, railed out to one of the rogues, ' Stop, friend, you have forgot to 
 take my money I'" Notes and Queries, No. 62. 
 
 Camden Town, begun 1791, built on the estate of the Marquis of Cam- 
 den ; and Somers Town, begun 1786, on the estate of Earl Sorners, are 
 also hamlets of Pancras parish, and both are now united with London. 
 
 The original " Mother Red Cap," Kentish Town, was a place of terror to 
 travellers, and is believed to have been the " Mother Damnable" of Kentish 
 Town in early days; at this house " Moll Cutpurse," the highwayman of the 
 time of Oliver Cromwell, dismounted and frequently lodged. Smith's Book for a 
 Rainy Day, p. 20. 
 
 KILBUKN", 
 
 A hamlet about two and a half miles north-west from London, at the 
 south-western extremity of the parish of Hampstead, is named from 
 Cold-bourne, a stream which rises near West End, and passes through I 
 Kilburn to Bays water ; and after supplying the Serpentine reservoir) 
 in Hyde Park, flows into the Thames at Ranelagh. Kilburn has its; 
 station upon the London and North- Western Railway. In the lastj 
 century, the place was famed for its mineral spring (Kilburn Wells),! 
 which rises about 12 feet below the surface, and is inclosed in a brick i 
 reservoir, the door-arch of which bears on its kevstone 1714. Thei 
 water is more strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas than any I 
 other known spring in'England. In 1837 was taken down a cottage at 
 Kilburu in which Oliver Goldsmith had resided. 
 
 Kilburn originated from Godwyn, a hermit, who, temp. Henry II. built a cell! 
 near the little rivulet called Cuneburna, Keelebourne, Coldbourne, and Ki/bourne, 1 
 on a site surrounded with wood. Between 1128 and 1134, Godwyn grained hisj 
 hermitage and adjoining lands to the conventual church of St. Peter at West- 
 minster, who soon after assigned the property to Emma, Gunilda, and CristinaJ, 
 maids-of-honour to Maud (queen of Henry I.), herself a Benedictine nun; and< 
 hence the cell of the anchorite became a nunnery: Godwin being appointed itst 
 master or warden, and guardian of the maidens, for bis life. Certain estates | 
 were granted to the nuns in South wark and Knightsbridge (which manor still 
 belongs to Westminster), the latter property in the place called Gara, probably) 
 Kensington Gore. Provisions, kitchen-fare, wine, mead, and beer were also, 
 assigned ; and in return the vestals prayed for St. Edward the Confessor, and thej 
 church at- Westminster. 
 
 At the Dissolution, in 1536, the " Nonre of Kilbourne" was surrendered: whenj 
 the inventory shews the chamber furniture to have included " bedsteddes, stand-i 
 ing bedd wt 4 postes. fetherbedds, matteres, cov'lettes, wollen blankettes, bol-J 
 sters, pillowes of downe, sheetes," &c. The name of the last prioress was Anne' 
 Browne. Soon after, the king assigned the priory estate, with other lands, to Wes-j 
 ton, prior of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, in exchange for Paris Garden! 
 in Surrey, &c. The church was dedicated to St. Mary and St. John the Baptist ;\ 
 the latter, in his camel-hair garment, is portrayed on the priory seal. The Abbey! 
 Farm at Kilburn includes the site of the priory : the only view known of the 
 conventual buildings is an etching, date 1722. 
 
 Several relics, including pieces of pottery, a few coins, and a bronze 
 vessel, all mediaeval, were found on the Priory site in the autumn of: 
 1852, and shewn to the Archaeological Institute. 
 
LAMBETH. 437 
 
 LAMBETH, 
 
 Also called Lambhith, Lambhyde, and Lambhei, is probably derived 
 from lam, dirt, and hyd or hythe, a haven ; or from lamb and hythe. 
 It was anciently a village of Surrey, but is now united with Southwark ; 
 and is one of the metropolitan boroughs, returning two members to 
 Parliament under the Reform Act of 1832. The parish ranges along the 
 south bank of the Thames from Vauxhall towards Southwark, and ex- 
 tends to Norwood, Streatham, and Croydon ; in Aubrey's time it in- 
 cluded part of the forest of oaks called Norwood, belonging to the see 
 of Canterbury, wherein was the Vicar's Oak (cut down in 1679), at 
 which point four parishes meet. Hardyknute, the last of the Danish 
 kings of England, died suddenly in June 1041 at Lambeth. In 1062, 
 King Edward gave Lambeth to the monastery of Waltham, in Essex ; 
 and Harold placed the crown on his head, with his own hands, at Lamb- 
 lythe. ( William ofMalmesbury.) King John granted Lambeth a mar- 
 jet and fair, long since discontinued. The Archbishops of Canterbury 
 lave resided here since the twelfth century. (See LAMBETH PALACE.) 
 
 The mother church (St. Mary's) adjoins the Palace, and is described 
 at page 144. Beneath its walls, Mary, queen of James II., found 
 shelter with her infant son, having crossed the river by the horse-ferry 
 from Westminster : here the queen remained a whole hour in the rain 
 on the night of December 9, 1688, until a coach arrived from the next 
 nn and conveyed her to Gravesend, whence she sailed for France. St. 
 Mary's Church was rebuilt in 1851-2, save the tower, in the same 
 style as formerly, except the open timber roof. Memorial and other 
 windows are filled with stained glass; "the Pedlar and his Dog" has 
 3een replaced, and the tombs and monumental brasses restored. The 
 district churches have little that is noteworthy. 
 
 The site of St. John's, Waterloo-road, was a swamp and horse-pond : the 
 :hurch (built 1823-4) has a peal of eight bells, tenor 1900 Ibs. weight : in a vault 
 sburied Robert William Elliston, the comedian (d. 1831). The district commences 
 it the middle of Westminster Bridge, whence an imaginary boundary-line passes 
 ;hrough the middle of the river Thames and Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 On the south side of Church-street was Norfolk House, the mansion 
 of the Earl of Norfolk temp. Edward 1. : here resided the celebrated 
 Earl of Surrey when under the tuition of John Leland, the antiquary, 
 line house has long been demolished, and its site and grounds occupied 
 by Norfolk-row and Hodges's distillery. The Dukes of Norfolk also had 
 in Lambeth, on the bank of the Thames, a garden, which was let to 
 jBoydell Cuper, who opened it as Cuper's Garden, and decorated it with 
 pome fragments of the Arundelian marbles, given him by the Earl of 
 lArundel, whose gardener he had been. Other fragments of the sculp- 
 tures were set up in a piece of ground adjoining, and afterwards were 
 buried with rubbish from the ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral, then re- 
 puilding by Wren ; but the sculptures were subsequently disinterred, 
 jind the site was let to Messrs. Beaufoy for their Vinegar- works, re- 
 hioved to South Lambeth on the erection of Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 Carlisle Street, Lane, and Chapel, keep in memory Carlisle House, 
 ;he palace of the Bishops of Rochester from the thirteenth to the six- 
 eenth century, when Henry VIII. granted it to the see of Carlisle, 
 lere in 1531 Richard Roose or Rose, a cook, poisoned seventeen per- 
 ons; for which he was attainted of treason and boiled to death in 
 ^mithfield, by an ex post facto law passed for the purpose, but repealed 
 n the next reign. On the grounds of Carlisle House was subsequently 
 milt a pottery, which existed temp. George II. The house then became a 
 javern, brothel, dancing-school, and academy ; and was taken down 1827. 
 Lambeth has long been celebrated for its places of public amusement. 
 
438 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Vauxhall Gardens are mentioned by Evelyn, in his Diary, July 2,1661: 
 " I went to see the New Spring Garden, at Lambeth, a pretty con- 
 trived plantation ; ? ' and the place is to this day licensed annually as " the 
 Spring Garden, Vauxhall." Belvidere House and Gardens* adjoined 
 Cuper's Garden in Queen Ann's reign ; and still further west were 
 Cumberland Tea-Gardens (named after the great Duke), which existed 
 until 1813, their site being now crossed by Vauxhall Bridge-road. The 
 Dog and Duck dates from 1617, the year upon the sign-stone in the 
 garden-wall of Bethlem Hospital (see page 42) : here is preserved a 
 drawing of the old tavern and its grounds. The Hercules Inn and Gar- 
 dens occupied the site of the Asylum for Female Orphans, opened in 1758 ; 
 and opposite were the Apollo Gardens and the Temple of Flora, Mount- 
 row, opened 1788. A century earlier there existed, in King William's 
 reign, Lambeth Wells, in Three Coney Walk, now Lambeth Walk ; it 
 was reputed for its mineral waters, sold at a penny a quart, " the same 
 price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital." About 1750 a musical society 
 was held here, and lectures and experiments were given on natural 
 philosophy by Erasmus King, who had been coachman to Dr. Desa- 
 guliers. In *Stangate-lane, Carlisle-street, is the Bower Saloon, with 
 its theatre and music-room, a pleasure-haunt of our own time. 
 
 Astley's Amphitheatre originated with Philip Astley, who in 1763 
 commenced horsemanship in an open field near Glover's " Halfpenny 
 Hatch" at Lambeth. Thence Astley removed to the site of the present 
 theatre, near Westminster Bridge, when his ground-landlord had a 
 preserve or breed of pheasants near the spot : the theatre was burnt 
 in 1794, 1803, and 1841. The Victoria Theatre, formerly the Coburg, 
 opened in 1818, is built on ground held of the manor of Lambeth : the 
 site was a swampy open field; and part of the stone materials of the 
 old Savoy Palace, Strand, then being cleared away, was used for the 
 theatre foundation. The Royal Circus, St. George's Fields, was built 
 in 1781, by Dibdin and Hughes, to compete with Astley ; the Circus 
 was burnt in 1805, and rebuilt in 1806. 
 
 The Asylum for Female Orphans, just mentioned, was established 
 chiefly through Sir John Fielding, the police-magistrate, whose por- 
 trait, attributed to Hogarth, is preserved here ; with a head of George | 
 111. and his youngest son, the Duke of Cambridge, who was long pre- j 
 sident of the institution : in the chapel is a tablet to his memory. The 
 site cost the charity 16,000/. ; premises rebuilt 1826. 
 
 In Oakley-street, at the Oakley Arms, November 16, 1802, Colonel Edward 
 Marcus Despard and thirty-two other persons were apprehended on a charge of, 
 high treason : and in February following, the Colonel, with nine associates, 
 were tried by a special commission at the Surrey Sessions House : and being all 
 found guilty, seven, including Despard, were executed February 21 on the top , 
 of Horsemonger-lane Gaol. 
 
 Lambeth has been noted as the residence of astrologers. At Tra- 
 descant's house, in South Lambeth-road, lived Elias Ashmole, who 
 won Aubrey over to astrology (see pp. 309 and 396). Simon For-, 
 man's burial is entered in the Lambeth parish-register : he died on 
 the day he had prognosticated. Lilly says, Forman wrote in a book left 
 behind him: "this I made the devil write with his own hand in Lam- 
 be, h Fields, 1569, in June or July, as I now remember." Captain 
 Bubb, contemporary with Forman, dwelt in Lambeth Marsh, and "re- 
 solved horary questions astrologically," a ladder which raised him to 
 the pillory. At the north corner of Calcot-alley lived Francis Moore, 
 
 * Dr. Rawlinson, in his additions to Aubrey's Surrey (written in 1719), ima- 
 gines Belvidere Gardens to have been the site of a saw-mill erected in Crom- 
 well's time, and which he protected by Act of Parliament. 
 
LAMBETH. 439 
 
 [astrologer, physician, and schoolmaster, and the original author of 
 I" Moore's Almanack." Next to Tradescant's house lived the learned 
 jDr. Ducarel, one of the earliest Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries, 
 | and librarian at Lambeth Palace. 
 
 At South Lambeth, upon the site of Sir Noell Caron's mansion and 
 deer-park, are Beaufoy's Vinegar and Wine Works. Here were a vessel 
 ; of sweet wine containing 59, 109 gallons, and another of vinegar of 56,799 
 I gallons ; the lesser of which exceeded the famous Heidelberg tun by 40 
 barrels. Mr. Beaufoy, F.R.S. was an eminent mathematician, and a 
 munificent patron of education ; and his bust is placed in the Council 
 Chamber, Guildhall (see p. 340). 
 
 In Lambeth Walk, close upon the South-Western Railway, are the 
 Lambeth Ragged Schools, founded in 1851 by Mr. Beaufoy, at the ex- 
 pense of 10,000/., and 4000Z. endowment, as a memorial of the benevo- 
 lent Mrs. Beaufoy, the wife of the founder. 
 
 On part of the site of Belvidere House and Gardens were estab- 
 lished, in 1785, the Lambeth Water-works, first taking their water 
 from the borders of the Thames ; then from its centre, near Hun- 
 gerford Bridge, by a cast-iron conduit-pipe 42 inches in diameter ; 
 whence, in 1852, the works were removed to Seething "Wells, Ditton, 
 23 miles by the river course from London Bridge. Thence the water 
 I is supplied to the Company's reservoirs at Brixton, lOf miles, by steam 
 pumping-engines, at the rate of 10,000,000 gallons daily ; from these re- 
 servoirs, 100 feet above the Thames, the water flows by its own gravity 
 through the mains ; but at Norwood it is lifted by steam-power 350 
 feet, or the height of St. Paul's Cathedral, above the supplying river. 
 
 In Belvidere-roadis Goding's Ale Brewery, built in 1836 : the upper 
 floor is an immense tank for water, supplying the floor below, where 
 the boiled liquor is cooled ; it then descends into fermenting tuns in 
 the story beneath; next to the floor for fining; and lastly to the cellar 
 or store-vats. 
 
 Lambeth Marsh, by Hollar's map, extended from near Stangate to 
 Broadwall ; and was bounded by the river on the north-west, and the 
 ancient way or road called Lambeth Marsh on the south-east. The 
 names of Narrow-wall and Broad-wall were derived from the embank- 
 ments subsequently made. 
 
 In cutting for the railway and lines of sewerage at the great terminus near 
 York-road (a space in size equal to Grosvenor-square), there was found a large 
 deposit from the inundations of the Thames, containing gravel-stones and dark 
 wet clay, or pressed river-mud, imbedding fragments of twigs, bones, pieces of 
 Roman tile, &c. 
 
 Narrow Wall, Vine-street, and Cornwall-road are delineated in 
 views of these suburbs in Queen Elizabeth's reign : Vine-street is from 
 8 to 10 feet below the level of the adjacent streets. 
 
 Plate-glass for mirrors and coach-windows was first made, in 1670, by 
 Venetian artists, with Rosetti at their head, under the patronage of the 
 second Duke of Buckingham, at Fox-hall (Vauxhallj, with great success, 
 " so as to excel the Venetians, or any other nation, in blown plate- 
 glass." But about 1780 the establishment was broken up, and a 
 descendant of Rosetti's left in extreme poverty. (Hist, of Lambeth y 
 1786.) Some of the finest "Vauxhall plates" are to be seen in the 
 Speaker's state-coach. The Falcon Glass-house, Holland-street, Black - 
 friars-road, occupies the site of the tide-mill of the old manor of Paris 
 Garden, and has existed more than a century ; here is made about a 
 fortieth part of the flint-glass manufactured in England.* 
 
 * Mr. Apsley Pellatt, the proprietor of the Falcon Works, elected M.P. for 
 Southwark in 1&52, has published Curiosities of Glass-making (1849); the expe- 
 riences of a lifetime unceasingly devoted to the study and practice of the art. 
 
440 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Lambeth has long been famed for its stone-ware. The Vauxhall 
 Pottery, established two centuries since, by two Dutchmen, for the 
 manufacture of old Delft ware, is probably the origin of all our existing 
 potteries. Two other Potteries at Lambeth were commenced in 1730 
 and 1741. The potters procure the clay from Devon and Dorset, and 
 the flint, already ground, from Staffordshire. Salt-glazed stone-ware 
 is made in Lambeth of the yearly value of 100,000?., of which more 
 than one-half is paid for labour; at Green's manufactory are made che- 
 mical vessels for holding from 300 to 400 gallons. 
 
 In Hunt's Chemical Works, High-street, are combined the crushing 
 of bones and the grinding of mustard with the manufacture of colours, 
 soap, and bone brushes ; and stearine, glue, hartshorn, and phosphate 
 of lime are obtained by steam-power from the refuse of slaughtered 
 cattle. Hawes's Soap and Candle Works, at the Old Royal Barge 
 House, have existed for 80 years. 
 
 Above Vauxhall Bridge are Price's Stearine Candle Company's Works (established 
 1842) : covering two acres ; employing 900 workpeople, and immense hydraulic and 
 steam power; and making 100 tons (7000/. worth) of candles weekly, from cocoa- 
 nut-oil brought from the Company's plantations in Ceylon, and palm-oil from the 
 coast of Africa, landed from barges at the wharf at Vauxhall. The oil being 
 converted by chemical processes into stearine, is freed from oleic acid by enor- 
 mous pressure; is liquefied by steam, and then conveyed into the moulding ma- 
 chinery, by which 800 miles of wicks are continually being converted into candles. 
 The buildings are of corrugated iron, and include the auxiliaries of a laboratory, 
 engineers', carpenters', tinmen's, coppersmiths', and weavers' shops ; forges, a 
 cooperage, a sealing-wax manufactory, and steam printing-machine ; the several 
 furnaces consuming their own smoke. This is the most colossal establishment 
 in the world in this branch of chemical manufacture ; the annual profits are from 
 40,000*. to 50,000/. 
 
 Shot is made in the lofty towers immediately above and below 
 Waterloo Bridge. The height of the quadrangular tower is 150 feet: 
 the upper floor is a room wherein the alloy of arsenic and lead is melted 
 by a furnace ; the fluid metal is then ladled into a kind of cullender, 
 through the holes of which it falls like rain for about 130 feet into 
 water at the lower floor of the building. An iron staircase leads from 
 the bottom to the top of the tower: on Jan. 5, 1826, the upper floor 
 was destroyed by fire, which happening at night, presented a magni- 
 ficent effect. 
 
 The circular shot-tower, 100 feet high, is strikingly beautiful. Mr. 
 Hosking, the architect, considers this structure to riva'lthe Monument: 
 "they are both," he observes, "of cylindrical form ; but the one is crowned 
 by a square abacus, and the other by a bold cornice, which follows its 
 own outline (i.e. of the tower) : the greater simplicity and consequent 
 beauty of the latter is such as to strike the most unobservant." 
 
 Maudslay and Field's Works, in the Westminster-road, commenced 
 in 1810 with 150 men and one steam-engine, now employ 1000 men, J 
 besides steam-power for the heavy labour. In Duke-street. Stamford- 
 street, is Clowes' s Printing-Office and Foundry, the largest in the ] 
 world, commenced by Applegath the eminent engineer ; here two 
 steam-engines put in motion 26 printing-machines. 
 
 The "New Cut," from Westminster to Blackfriars Road, has be- ' 
 come a street within the recollection of the writer, who remembers j 
 low-lying fields, with a large windmill, east of the raised roadway, j 
 Pedlar's Acre (for the name see page 145), a portion of the Marsh, by | 
 old admeasurement contains 1 acre -17 poles, with a frontage on the > 
 Thames. In 1504 by the churchwardens' accounts, it was an osier- j 
 bed, and in 1623, Church Osiers ; the name of Pedlar's Acre does 
 not occur until 1690. probably from its being the squatting-place of 
 pedlars, as were the New Cut fields within memory. 
 
LAMBETH PALACE. 441 
 
 In 1-504-5, the annual rent of this estate was 2s. 8d.; in 1506,4*.; 1520, 6*.; 
 in 1556, 6s. Sd. ; in 1564, I3s.4d.; in 1581, I/. Gs. 8d.; and in 1651, 41., at about 
 which sum it continued until the commencement of the last century. After the 
 draining of Lambeth Marsh, and the erection of Westminster and BlackfrSars 
 Bridges, Pedlar's Acre, in 1752, was held on a long lease at a yearly rent of IOC/, 
 and 800^. fine. In 1813, when it had been much built upon, it was let by auction 
 for twenty-one years, in three lots, at 781. per annum, and 60001. premium. The 
 rents and proceeds are applied to parochial purposes, under the Act 7 Geo. IV. 
 cap. 46. 
 
 At Narrow Wall flourished for nearly 60 years Coade's Manu- 
 factory of burnt Artificial Stone (a revival of terra-cottd), invented 
 by the eider Bacon, the sculptor, and first established by Mrs. Coade, 
 from Lyme Regis, in 1709. Of this material are the bas-relief in 
 the pediment over the western portico at Greenwich Hospital, re- 
 presenting the Death of Nelson, designed by West, and executed by 
 Bacon and Panzetta; and the rood-screen or loft at St. George's Chapel, 
 Windsor. The manufacture (now Austin and Seeley's) has been removed 
 to the New-road. 
 
 Lambeth, a few years since a feverish marsh, has been greatly im- 
 proved by drainage : in 1810, Maudslay's Foundry was raised on pillars 
 
 >m the swamp, where at times a boat might have floated ; it is now, 
 drainage, firm and dry at all seasons. Lett's Timber Wharf, from 
 
 e time of Queen Elizabeth until the beginning of this century, lay 
 
 idst ponds and marsh-streams, but is now dry and healthy. 
 Lambeth early in the present century contained 1400 houses ; in 
 
 20 they had increased to 5000 ; in 1841, to 18,000 ; in 1851, to 20,520. 
 
 cross this thickly-peopled district extends the South-Western Rail- 
 
 y from its terminus in the Waterloo Bridge road to Nine Elms, 
 
 iriles 50 yards, executed at a cost of 800,000?. 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE, 
 
 ambeth House of old, has been for six and a half centuries the 
 ansion of the Archbishops of Canterbury, who had resided at Lam- 
 th seventy years previously; and in 1197 obtained the entire manor, 
 
 exchange with the Bishop of Rochester for certain lands in Kent, 
 ence the present palace is the manor-house; and, with the gardens 
 d grounds, forms an extra-parochial district. 
 
 The oldest part of Lambeth Palace is the Chapel, and a Crypt, sup- 
 sed to be a portion of the ancient manor-house, built by Archbishop 
 ubert Walter about 1190. Archbishops Langton, Boniface, Arun- 
 1, Chicheley, Stafford, Morton, Warham, Cranmer, Pole, Parker, and 
 ancroft, expended great sums on the palace, as have succeeding arch- 
 shops. Cranmer's additions included " the Steward's Parlour," and 
 a summer-house in the garden, of exquisite workmanship ;" both 
 lich have disappeared. In Wat Tyler's rebellion, " the commons 
 om Essex" plundered the palace, and beheaded the archbishop, Sud- 
 ry, on Tower Hill. In 1642, the Parliamentary soldiers dismantled 
 te Chapel, broke the painted windows, which it was alleged Arch- 
 shop Laud had restored "by their like in the mass-book;" while 
 aud's " books and goods were seized on, and even his very diary 
 ken by force out of his pocket." The palace was then used as a 
 ison for the Royalists; and after its sale by the Parliament for 
 731., the Chapel was converted into a dancing-room, and the Great 
 all demolished. The latter was rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon, at the 
 arge of 10,500Z. The palace was attacked'by the rioters of 1780, when 
 
 was protected by a detachment of Guards, and subsequently by a 
 litia regiment as a garrison for some weeks. Between 1828 and 1848 
 rchbishop Howley rebuilt the habitable portion of the palace, and 
 
442 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 restored other parts, at a cost of 60,000/. The garden front is of Tudor 
 character ; and with its bays and enriched windows, battlements, gables, 
 towers, and clustered chimney -shafts, is very picturesque. 
 
 The Gate-house, built by Archbishop Morton about 1490, consists 
 of an embattled centre and two immense square towers, of fine red 
 brick with stone dressings, and a spacious Tudor arched gateway 
 and postern. The towers are ascended by spiral stone staircases, 
 leading to the Record-room containing many of the archives of the see 
 of Canterbury. Adjoining the archway is a small prison-room, with 
 high and narrow windows, and thick stone walls to which are fastened 
 three strong iron rings; and in the wall are cuttings, including Sofia 
 rafton, and a cross and other figures near it. The walls and towers 
 of the gate-house, and the ancient brick wall on the Thames side, are 
 chequered with crosses in glazed bricks. 
 
 At this gate the dole immemorially given to the poor by the Archbishops of 
 Canterbury is constantly distributed. It consists of fifteen quartern loaves, nine 
 stone of beef, and rive shillings worth of halfpence, divided into three equal por- 
 tions, and distributed every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday among thirty poor 
 parishioners of Lambeth; the beef being made into broth and served in pitchers. 
 
 The Lollards' Tower, on the left of the outer court, is embattled, 
 and chiefly of dark-red brick, faced with stone on its outer sides. It 
 was built "(1434-5) by Archbishop Chicheley, whose arms are sculptured 
 on the outer wall on the Thames side ; beneath them is a Gothic niche, 
 wherein formerly stood the image of St. Thomas a Becket. In this 
 tower is the Post-room, with a flat and panelled ceiling, carved with 
 angels and scrolls, and a head resembling that of Henry VIII. On the 
 east side is an entrance to the Chapel ; and through a small door you 
 ascend by a steep spiral staircase to the Lollards' Prison (in an adjoin- 
 ing square tower on the north side), entering by a narrow, low, pointed 
 archway of stone, with an oaken inner and outer door, each 3 inches 
 thick, closely studded with iron rivets and fastenings. The chamber is 
 nearly 15 feet in length, by 11 feet in width, and 8 feet high ; and has two 
 narrow windows, and a small fireplace and chimney. About breast- 
 high are fixed in the walls eight large iron rings ; and upon the oaken 
 wainscoting are incisions of initials, names, short sentences, crosses, 
 
 (Incisions upon the wall of Lollards' Tower.) 
 
 cubes, &c. cut by the unhappy captives. It is no longer considered that 
 they were exclusively Lollards, nor is there positive evidence that these 
 followers of Wicliffe were imprisoned here; although the registers of j 
 the see of Canterbury record several proceedings against the sect, and 
 Wicliffe himself is said to have been examined in the Chapel at Lam- : 
 beth. Archbishop Arundel was the fiercest persecutor of the Lollards, ; 
 and his successor, Chicheley, built "the Lollards' Tower," possibly on 
 the site of other prisons here, which the registers of the see prove the 
 archbishops to have possessed. To Lambeth House the Popish pre- 
 lates, Tunstall and Thirlby, were committed by Queen Elizabeth : and 
 here were confined the Earl of Essex ; the Earls of Chesterfield and 
 Derby ; Sir Thomas Armstrong, afterwards executed for participation 
 in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion ; Dr. Allestry, the eminent divine ; 
 and Richard Lovelace, the poet. 
 
LAMBETH PALACE. 443 
 
 In the three stories above the Post-room are apartments for the 
 [archbishop's chaplains and librarian. The view of the river and the 
 ^metropolis from the roof of the tower is singularly fine ; and the new 
 (Palace at Westminster is there seen to great advantage. 
 
 The Chapel, entered from the Post-room, is divided by an elaborately 
 carved screen ; but the arched roof is concealed by flat paneling, bear- 
 ling the arms of Laud, Juxon, and Cornvvallis. At the east end are five 
 long lancet-shaped lights, filled with diapered modern glass ; and at 
 each side are three triplicated windows, resembling those of the Tem- 
 ple Church. Here are the archbishop's stall, seats for the officers of 
 Ihis household, and below for the male servants ; the females being 
 seated in the outer chapel, in a small gallery, where was formerly an 
 i organ. In front of the altar is buried Archbishop Parker, beneath a 
 marble slab, inscribed, " Corpus Matthaei archiepiscopi tandem hie 
 qviescit."* The tomb, which Parker "erected while he was yet alive," 
 near the spot where he " used to pray," was demolished by Col. Scot in 
 1642, and the Archbishop's corpse thrown into a dung-heap ; but it was 
 recovered and reinterred after the Restoration. Archbishop Bancroft 
 has narrated these facts in an epitaph of elegant Latin, inscribed on a 
 tomb raised by him to Parker's memory. In the Chapel have been con- 
 secrated upwards of 150 bishops: Dr. Rowley's consecration as Bishop 
 of London (1813) was witnessed by Queen Charlotte, when 70 years of 
 age : as Archbishop of Canterbury, he crowned three sovereigns. Here 
 the present Archbishop (Sumner) held his first ordination, June 18, 1848. 
 The Crypt beneath the chapel has been already noticed at page 242. 
 
 The Library (Juxon's Hall) and the Great Dining-room (on the 
 site of the Guard-chamber) form the west side of the inner court. Ou 
 the north are the new buildings of the palace, by E. Blore ; the entrance 
 is between two octagonal towers, 84 feet high. In the private library 
 is a portrait on board of Archbishop Warham, consecrated 1504 ; this 
 was painted by Holbein, and presented by him to the archbishop, with 
 a head of his friend Erasmus : the latter is missing. In the ante-room 
 is a whole-length portrait of Charles I., ascribed to Vandyke ; and a 
 picture on panel of St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, St. Augustine, and St. 
 Gregory, with the Holy Spirit : both pictures belonged to Cardinal Pole. 
 
 The Guard -chamber is mentioned in 1424 as the " Camera Armiger- 
 orum," from the arms being kept here for the defence of the palace; 
 but they were carried off in the plunder of 1642, and were never re- 
 placed. In this chamber Archbishop Laud kept his state, Sept. 19, 
 1633, the day of his consecration. The apartment is 58 feet long and 
 27 feet 6 inches wide ; it has a very elegant oak roof, with the lofty 
 two-centred and bold tracery of Early Perpendicular work ; it was long 
 plastered over, but was restored by Blore about 1832, when it was un- 
 der-propped, and the walls were rebuilt. The roof is paneled, and sup- 
 ported by bold arches springing from octangular corbels ; the spandrels 
 of the arches being filled by quatrefoils in circles, and trefoil mouldings. 
 On the gabled sides of the roof similarly enriched arches stretch between 
 the great roof arches ; on the walls also arches span from corbel to 
 corbel, and support an embattled frieze ; and the fireplace is turreted. 
 
 In this room, besides smaller portraits, is a series of half and three-quarter 
 lengths of all the Archbishops of Canterbury since 1633: including Laud, by Van- 
 dyke; Juxon (who attended Charles I. on the scaffold), from an original at Long- 
 
 * In this Chapel Archbishop Parker was consecrated, Dec. 5, 1559, according to 
 the " duly appointed ordinal of the Church of England," as recorded in Parker's 
 Register at Lambeth, and in the library of Corpus Christi College at Cambridge ; 
 thus falsifying the absurd calumny promulgated by the Romanists, of Archbishop 
 Parker having been irregularly consecrated at the Nag's Head Tavern, at the east 
 end of Friday-street, Cheapside, by one bishop only. 
 
444 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 leat; Herring, by Hogarth ; Seeker, by Reynolds ; Sutton, by Beechey; Howley, 
 by Shee. These portraits shew the gradual change in the clerical dress, in bands 
 and wigs, and the large ruff in place of the band: Tillotson's being the first wig, 
 unpowdered, and not unlike the natural hair. Here also are smaller heads of the 
 earlier archbishops : Arundel, from a curious portrait at Penshurst ; Chicheley, 
 Cranmer, and Grindal; and Cardinal Pole, from an original in the Barberini 
 Palace at Rome. Pole maintained great hospitality at Lambeth : in the Ms. 
 Library is his patent (4 Philip and Mary) for retaining one hundred servants. The 
 body of the Cardinal lay in great state at Lambeth during forty days, prior to its 
 interment at Canterbury. 
 
 In the Picture Gallery, built by Pole, among other paintings are : Archbishop 
 Potter when six years old (1680), holding a Greek Testament, which he is said 
 then nearly to have read; Martin Luther, from Nuremburg; Cardinal Pole (curi- 
 ous, on board, and probably a genuine likeness) ; Queen Catherine Parr, original, 
 on board; Luther and his Wife (?), attributed to Ho'bein, and copied on enamel 
 by Bone ; Henry Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. (full-length, curious 
 costume); Bishop Burnet, as Chancellor of the Garter; an old view of Canterbury 
 Cathedral; Archbishop Juxon, after his decease; Bishop Hoadley, painted by his 
 second wife ; Archbishop Parker,* painted in 1572 by Richard Lyne, who practised 
 painting and engraving in the palace ; Archbishop Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. 
 
 In this Hall are given annually, on " public days," a certain number of state 
 entertainments, termed " Lambeth Palace dinners." to the bishops and fading 
 clergy. The Rev. Sydney Smith facetiously asks: "Is it necessary that the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury should give feasts to aristocratic London"; and that i 
 the domestics of the Prelacy should stand with swords and bag-wigs, round pig 
 and turkey and venison, to defend, as it -were, the orthodox gastronomer from i 
 the fierce Unitarian, the fell Baptist, and the famished children of Dissent?'' 
 Second Letter on Church Reform. 
 
 The Great Hall is built of dark-red brick, with strong buttresses I 
 and stone finishings. In the centre of the roof is a two-storied hexa- 
 gonal lantern, surmounted by a large vane, in which are the arms of 
 the see of Canterbury, impaled with those of Juxon (a cross between 
 four negroes' heads), surmounted by the archiepiscopal mitre. The 
 interior was converted into a library'for the printed books belonging 
 to the see, between 1830 and 1834; when a new entrance-gateway to 
 the inner court was built, with a fireproof room over it, in which are 
 kept the MSS. The library is 93 feet by 38 feet, and upwards of 50 feet 
 high from the ground-floor : the large north-west bay-window is richly 
 ornamented stained and painted glass ; in the top division is a very large 
 coat of the arms of the see and Archbishop Juxon ; and underneath are 
 the arms of the see and Archbishop Howley, 1829. Around are j 
 smaller coats of the arms of about twenty-four" archbishops, each im- ! 
 paled with the arms of the see. Here are also the arms of Philip II. 
 king of Spain ; but the most curious piece of painted glass is an ancient 
 portrait of Archbishop Chicheley. 
 
 The roof is of oak, and a fine specimen of olden carpentry : it con- 
 sists of eight main ribs, with longitudinal bracts, springing from corbel 
 brackets, and enriched with carved spandrels, pendants, enwreathed 
 mitres, and the arms of Juxon and the see of Canterbury several times 
 repeated. Above the two fireplaces are painted the arms of the see, i 
 impaling those of Bancroft, the founder of the library ; and of Seeker, a 
 liberal contributor. The books, over-estimated by "Ducarel at 25,000 
 volumes, are kept in wall and projecting oak cases ; the earliest printed 
 works being in the south-west bay-window recess. Until Bancroft 
 bequeathed his books in 1610, each archbishop brought his own private 
 collection. Bancroft's books remained at Lambeth till 1646, two years 
 after the execution of Laud, when being seized by the Parliament, the 
 use of them was granted to Dr. TVincocke. They were subsequently 
 
 * This portrait strongly resembles the small print of the Archbishop engraved 
 by R. Berg (Remigius Hogenberg), which Vertue considered to be the first portrait j 
 engraved in England. 
 
LAMBETH PALACE. 445 
 
 given to Sion College, and many began to get into private hands ; when 
 Selden suggested to the University of Cambridge a right to them, and 
 they were delivered, pursuant to an ordinance of Parliament, dated Feb. 
 1647, into their possession. After the Restoration, and repeated de- 
 mands by Juxon and Sheldon, the books were collected, including those 
 in private hands, and in the possession of John Thurloe and Hugh 
 Peters. Evelyn writes to Pepys, in 1689, that the library was then 
 " replenished with excellent books, but that it ebbs and flows, like the 
 Thames running by it, at every prelate's accession or translation." 
 The books left by Archbishops Bancroft, Abbot, Laud, Sheldon, and 
 Tenison, bear their arms. There is only one volume in the collection 
 known to have belonged to Archbishop Parker, which is a volume of 
 Calvin's writing: his arms are on the outside, and within is written 
 in red lead, " J. Parker," who was the archbishop's son. 
 
 The first complete Catalogue made of the printed books was drawn up by Bishop 
 Gibson when librarian. In 1718 it was fairly copied by Dr. Wilkins, in three 
 volumes folio ; and it has been continued by his successors to the present time. 
 The library consists of rare and curious editions of the Scriptures, commentaries! 
 of the early fathers, scarce controversial divinity, records of ecclesiastical affairs, 
 English history and topography; many fine copies, splendidly embellished. 
 
 The early printed books (see the Rev. Dr. Maitland's two Catalogues) include, 
 Caxton's Chronicles of England and Description of Britain, both " fynsshed" in 
 1480, the finest copies extant; Lyndewode's Cnnstitutiones Provinciates, printed by 
 Wynkin de Worde in 1499 ; The Golden Legend, emprynted at London in Fletestrete. 
 in the Sygne of the George, by Richard Pynson, in 1507, and another edition of the 
 same work by Wynkin de Worde in 1527 ; Gower's Confessio A mantis, a splendid 
 copy by Caxton, 1483 ; Dives and Pauper, by Pynson, 1493 ; Chaucer's Works, folio, 
 by John Reynes, in 1452, and Islip, in 1598. Here, too, is a small folio, executed 
 at Paris, on vellum, about 1500, intituled, La Dance Macabre (the Dance of 
 Death), printed with old Gothic types and beautifully illuminated. Here also, 
 in volumes, is Bancroft's collection of black-letter tracts, pamphlets, and ser- 
 mons ; remarkable for St. Paul's Cross sermons, Mar Prelate tracts, and the 
 writings of the Brownists and other Elizabethan separatists. Here, too, is a 
 copy of Archbishop Parker's Antiquities, printed by Dayes in 1572 (only two 
 complete copies extant): it contains the very rare portrait of Parker, taken just 
 before his death, by Berg. 
 
 Among the Manuscripts are, the ancient French version and exposition of 
 the Apocalypse, with miniature paintings, No. 75; the Latin copy of the Apoca- 
 lypse, No. 209 (thirteenth century), with 78 brilliant illuminations ; and No. 200, 
 a copy of the treatise De Virginitate, in praise of celibacy, by Aldhelm, Abbot 
 of Malmesbury, eighth century. Among the sacred Mss. are Greek Testaments ; 
 the Old Testament in Armenian ; the whole Bible, Wicliffe's translation ; and Latin 
 Psalters, beautifully written and illuminated. Here, too, are Scripture exposi- 
 tions of Bede ; Anglo-Saxon sermons (tenth century) and Saxon homilies (twelfth 
 century). Among the Missals is a very beautiful Salisbury missal, folio, on vel- 
 jlum, emblazoned with Archbishop Chicheley's arms. The Mss. of Greek and 
 | Latin classics are extremely valuable. Here are the Lambeth Registers, 40 vols. 
 folio, on vellum; containing homages, popes' bulls; letters to and from popes, 
 'cardinals, kin^s, and princes; commissions and proxies, marriages and divorces, 
 &c. 1279 to 1747 (except 1644 to 16GO): the registers of the primates subsequent 
 to Potter, 1747, are kept at Doctors' Commons. Also two large folio volumes of 
 papal bulls; ancient charters of the see, 13 vols.; accurate transcripts of the 
 jarliamentary surveys of the property of bishops, deans, and chapters, made 
 during the Commonwealth, 21 vols. 
 
 The collection is stored with Mss. of English history, civil and ecclesiastical, 
 ncluding chronicles and collections of histories; and important documents, par- 
 -icularly of the relations of France with England (temp. Hen. V. and VI.). Among 
 :he Mss. on Heraldry and Genealogy are many written or corrected by Lord 
 Surghley. Here are stores of old English poetry and romances: including Lyd- 
 , r ate's Works, and Gawen Douglas's Translation of Virgil's sEneid; and the metrical 
 legend of Libeaus Disconus. 
 
 Among the Letters are those of Lord Verulam, published by Dr. 
 Birch; those of his brother, Anthony Bacon, 16 vols. ; the letters of the 
 Earl of Shrewsbury, and of other persons, temp. Henry VIII. to James I. 
 
446 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 But the most curious and beautifully written of the miscellaneous 
 Mss. (between 1200 and 1300 in number) is Lord Rivers's translation 
 from the French of " the Notable Wise Sayings of Philosophers,'' with 
 a very fine illumination of Earl Rivers presenting Caxton the printer 
 to King Edward IV., in presence of his queen and infant son, after- 
 wards Edward V. (Londiniana, vol. in. p. 316.) 
 
 Here is an original copy of Aggas's map of London, temp. Eliza- 
 beth ; and here are laid up the service-books which have been used at 
 the coronations of different sovereigns. The coronation-chairs claimed 
 by the archbishops have descended to their respective families. 
 
 Among the Curiosities is the habit of a priest, consisting of a stole, 
 manuple, chasuble, cord, two bands marked P., and the corporal ; also, 
 a crucifix of base metal, a string of beads, and a box of relics. Here is 
 kept the shell of the tortoise, believed to have lived in the palace-gar- 
 den from the time of Laud (1633) to 1753, when it perished by the 
 negligence of the gardener : the shell is 10 inches in length, and 6J 
 inches in breadth. 
 
 The Gardens and grounds extend to eighteen acres. Here were for- 
 merly two fine white Marseilles fig-trees, traditionally planted by Car- 
 dinal" Pole against that part of the palace which he founded : these 
 trees were more than 50 feet in height and 40 in breadth ; their cir- 
 cumferences 28 and 21 inches. They were removed during- the late 
 rebuilding, but some cuttings from the trees are growing between 
 the buttresses of the Library. The Terrace is named Clarendon Walk, 
 from having been the scene of the conference between the great and 
 wise Earl of Clarendon and the ill-fated Laud. 
 
 A superb feature in the Archbishop's state was formerly a river 
 barge, in which he went to Parliament ; but this custom has been dis- 
 continued a century, or since Archbishop Wake's primacy. 
 
 The Stationers' Company's Barge calling at Lambeth Palace on Lord 
 Mayor's Day (see p. 366 j thus originated : when Tenison possessed 
 the see, a near relation of his who was master of the Stationers' Com- 
 pany thought it a compliment to call at the Palaca in his stately 
 barge on the morning of Lord Mayor's Day, when the archbishop 
 sent out a pint of wine for each liveryman, with bread and cheese and 
 ale for the watermen and attendants ; and this grew into a settled cus- 
 tom. The Stationers' Company in return present to the archbishop 
 a copy of the several almanacks which they publish. 
 
 Lambeth House has at various times proved an asylum for learned 
 foreigners who have been compelled to flee from the intolerant spirit of 
 their own countrymen. Here the early reformers, Martyr and Bucer, 
 found a safe retreat; and the learned Antonio, Archbishop of Spa- 
 latre, was entertained by Archbishop Abbot. The archbishops have . 
 frequently been honoured by visits from their respective sovereigns. 
 Henry VII., just before his coronation, visited Archbishop Bour- 
 chier. Henry VIII. was a guest of Warham, in 1513 ;and one evening in | 
 1543 he cros'sed the Thames to Lambeth, to acquaint Cranmer (whom < 
 he called into his barge) of the plot against him instigated by Bishop , 
 Gardiner. Queen Mary is said to have refurnished Lambeth House, at 
 her own expense, for the reception of Cardinal Pole, whom she several; 
 times visited here during his short primacy. Elizabeth often visited 
 Archbishop Parker ; his successor, Grindal, was out of favour ; but 
 Whitgift, the next archbishop, was visited fifteen times by Elizabeth, 
 who occasionally stayed two or three days. James also visited "W hit- 
 gift. Mary, Queen of William III. had a conference here in 1694 with 
 Archbishop Tillotson, who was honoured with a visit from Peter the 
 Great, to witness the ceremony of an ordination. 
 
LAW COURTS. 447 
 
 LAW COURTS. 
 
 For nearly eight centuries, existing record proves Law Courts to have 
 been held at Westminster, within the palace of the sovereign: one of 
 the earliest notices being in the Annals ofWaverley, 1069, when Elfric, 
 Abbot of Peterborough, was tried before the king in curia. But it 
 was not until 1225 (9 Hen. III.) that the Law Courts, hitherto held 
 wherever the king was temporarily resident, were permanently fixed 
 at Westminster. Here the Courts were frequently held before the 
 monarch in person; and the phrase of summons, "in banco regince," 
 still is, " before the queen herself." 
 
 The old Law Courts in Westminster Hall were thus arranged. At the entry, 
 on the right hand, were settled the Common Pleas, for civil matters ; at the upper 
 end, in the south-east corner, was the Kind's Bench, for pleas of the Crown ; and 
 in the south-west angle sat the Lord Chancellor, the Master of the Rolls, and 
 eleven men learned in the civil law, called Masters of the Chancery, deriving 
 its name from the lattice-work, " cancelli," which separated this Court (in the 
 last century shutting it out of sight) from the lower part of the Hall. (The 
 screen was removed before the coronation of King George IV.) Near the King's 
 Bench, going to the large chamber (White Hall) was the Court of Wards and 
 Liveries, instituted by Henry VIII. ; in this chamber, then called the Treasury, 
 were kept valuable state-papers. Adjoining, but inferior to the Chancery, was the 
 Equity Court of Requests, or Conscience, for trying suits made by way of petition 
 to the sovereign ; and sometimes called the Poor Man's Court, because he could 
 there have right without paying money. It began its sittings in 1493, and was 
 remodelled in 1517; the Lord Privy Seal sitting as judge. Walcott's Westminster, 
 p. 252, abridged. 
 
 The Old Court of Requests, just mentioned, was, at the Union, 
 fitted up as the King's Robing-room and the House of Lords; and 
 after the great fire in 1834, this Court was newly roofed, and fitted 
 up as the House of Commons ; the old Painted Chamber being similarly 
 provided as the House of Lords. 
 
 ADMIRALTY COURT (see page 258). 
 
 AUGMENTATIONS' COURT (the) was remodelled by Henry VIII. 
 under the Lord Chancellor, for surveying and governing all forfeited 
 ecclesiastical property secularised to the use of the king : all deeds and 
 resignations of abbeys, priories, and lands, and their valuations, were 
 kept here. This Court was dissolved by Queen Mary ; but its Tudor 
 building was not removed until 1793. 
 
 CENTRAL CRIMINAL COURT (the) forms part of the Sessions House, 
 formerly " the Justice Hall," divided by a broad yard from the prison of 
 Newgate, in the Old Bailey. The Court, established 1834, sits monthly ; 
 so that a prisoner has been apprehended one day, committed by a ma- 
 gistrate on the second, and tried, convicted, and sentenced on the third 
 or fourth day. The judges are, the Lord Mayor (who opens the Court), 
 the Sheriffs, the Lord Chancellor (such is the order of the Act), the 
 Judges, the Aldermen, Recorder, Common Serjeant of London, judge of 
 the Sheriffs' Court, or City Commissioner, and any others whom the 
 crown may appoint as assistants. Of these, the Recorder and Common 
 Serjeant are in reality the presiding judges ; a judge of the law only 
 assisting when unusual points of the law are involved, or when con- 
 viction affects the life of the prisoner. Here are tried crimes of every 
 kind, from treason to the pettiest larceny, and even offences committed 
 on the high seas. The jurisdiction comprises the whole of the metro- 
 polis as now defined ; together with the remainder of Middlesex ; the 
 parishes of Richmond and Mortlake in Surrey ; and great part of 
 Essex. 
 
 The Court-house, built in 1773, was destroyed in the Riots of 1780, 
 
448 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 but was rebuilt and enlarged 1809, by the addition of the site of Sur- 
 geons' Hall. The Old Court is a square hall, with a gallery for visi- 
 tors; below is a dock for the prisoners, with stairs descending to the 
 covered passage by which they are conveyed to and from Newgate ; op- j 
 posite is the bench, with the chief seat, above it a gilded sheathed sword 
 upon the crimson wall ; and a canopy overhead, surmounted with the 
 royal arms. To the left of the dock is the witness-box, and further left 
 is the jury-box ; which arrangement enables the jury to see, without 
 turning, the faces of the witnesses and prisoners; the witnesses to 
 identify the prisoner; and lastly, the judges on the bench, and the I 
 counsel in the centre of the Court below; keeping jury, witnesses, and 
 prisoners all at once within nearly the same line of view. The Court 
 formerly sat at 7 A.M. ; the present hour is 10. Upon the front of the 
 dock is placed rue, to prevent infection. In 1750, when the jail-fever 
 raged in Newgate, the effluvia entering the Court, caused the death of 
 Baron Clarke, Sir Thomas Abney, the judge of the Common Pleas; and 
 Pennant's " respected kinsman," Sir Samuel Pennant, Lord Mavor ; 
 besides members of the bar and of the jury, and other persons: "this 
 disease was also fatal to several persons in 1772. In the New Court, 
 adjoining, are tried the lighter offences. 
 
 In 1841, both Courts were ventilated upon Dr. Reid's plan, from chambers 
 beneath the floors, filled with air filtered from an apartment outside the building; 
 the air being drawn into them by an enormous discharge upon the highest part 
 of the edifice, or propelled into them by a fanner. From the entire building 
 the vitiated air is received in a large chamber in the roof of the Old Court, whence 
 it is discharged by a gigantic iron cowl, 15 feet in diameter, weighing two tons, 
 and the point of the arrow of the guiding-vane 150 Ibs. The subterranean air- 
 tunnels pass through a portion of the old City wall. 
 
 Above the Old Court is a stately dining-room, wherein, during the 
 Old Bailey sittings, the dinners are given by the sheriffs to the judges 
 and aldermen, the Recorder, Common Serjeant, city pleaders, and a few 
 visitors. Marrow-puddings and rump-steaks are invariably provided. ' 
 Two dinners, exact duplicates, are served each day, at 3 and 5 o'clock; j 
 the judges relieve each other, but aldermen have eaten both dinners; 
 and a chaplain, who invariably presided at the lower end of the table, 
 thus ate two dinners a-day for ten years. Theodore Hook admirably 
 describes a Judges' Dinner in his Gilbert Gurney. In 1807-8, the 
 dinners for three sessions, nineteen days, cost Sheriff Phillips 351. per 
 day = 665/.; 145 dozen of wine, consumed at the above dinners, 450/. : < 
 total 1115/. The amount is now considerably greater, as the sessions : 
 are held monthly. 
 
 " The Press'Yard," between the Court-house and Newgate, recals ] 
 the horrors of the old criminal law. in the peinefort et dure (the strong j 
 and hard pain) ; a torture applied to persons refusing to plead, who 
 were stripped and put in low dark chambers, with as much weight of 
 iron placed upon them as they could bear, and more, there to lie until 
 they were dead ; which barbarous custom of pressing to death con- 
 tinued until 1734. 
 
 Memorable Trials at the Old Bailey and Central Criminal Court: Major 
 Strangwayes, the assassin, 1657; Col. Turner and his family, for burglary in 
 Lime-street, 1663; the Regicides, 160; Green, Berry, and Hill, for the murder 
 of Sir Edmundberry Godfrey, lh/8 ; Count Koningsmark and three others, for the 
 assassination of Mr. Thynne, 1681 ; Lord William Russell, William Hone, and two 
 others, for high treason, 1683 ; Rowland Walters and others, for the murder of Sir 
 Charles Pym, bart. 1688; Harrison, for the murder of Dr. Clenche, 1692; Beau 
 Fielding, for bigamy, 1706; Richard Thornhill. Esq., for killing Sir Cholmeley 
 Deerinij in a duel, 1711 ; the Marquis di Paleotti, for the murder of his servant in 
 Lisle-street, 1718; Major Oneby, for killing in a duel, 17 18 and 172C; Jack Shep- 
 pard, the house-breaker, 1724; Jonathan Wild, the thief-taker (who lived nearly 
 
LAW COURTS. 449 
 
 opposite the Court-house), 1725;* Catherine Hayes, murder of her husband, 1726; 
 Richard Savage, the poet, for murder, 1727; the infamous Col. Charteris, 1730; 
 Sarah Malcolm, for murder, 1733; Elizabeth Canning, an inexplicable mystery, 
 1753; AnnBrownrigs, for murder, 1767; Baretti, for stabbing, 1769; thetwoPer- 
 raus, for forgery, 1776; the Rev. Dr. Dpdd, for forgery, 1777; the Rev. Mr. 
 Hackman, for shooting Miss Reay, 1779; Ryland, the engraver, for forgery, 
 1783; Barrington, the pickpocket, 1790; Renwick Williams, for stabbing, 1790; 
 Theodore Gardelle, for murder, 1790; Hatfield, for shooting at George III., 
 1800; Capt. Macnamara, for killing Col. Montgomery in a duel, 1803; Aslett, 
 the Bank clerk (forgery on the Bank, 320,000^.). 1803; old Patch, for murder, 1806; 
 Holloway and Haggerty, for murder, 1807; Governor Wall, for murder by flogging, 
 1812; Bellingham, the assassin of Perceval, 1812; Eliza Penning, for poisoning, 
 1815; Cashman, the seaman, for riot on Snow-hill (where he was hanged), 1817; 
 Richard Carlile, for blasphemy, 1819 and 1831; Cato-street conspirators, 1820; 
 Fauntleroy, for forgery, 1824; St. John Long, the " counter- irritation" surgeon, 
 for manslaughter, 1830 and 1831 ; Bishop and Williams, for murder by "burking," 
 1831 ; Greenacre, for murder, 1837; E. Oxford, for shooting at the Queen, 1840; 
 Courvoisier, for the murder of Lord William Russell, 1840 ; Blakesley, for murder 
 in Eastcheap, 1841; Beaumont Smith, for forgery of Exchequer Bills, 1841; 
 J. Francis, for attempt to shoot the Queen, 1 842 ; Mac Naughten, for assassination, 
 1384; Dalmas, for murder on Battersea Bridge, 1844; Barber, Fletcher, &c. for 
 Will-forgeries, 1844; Manning and his wife, for murder, 1849. 
 
 CLERKENWELL SESSIONS HOUSE (see page 187). 
 
 COURT OF ARCHES (see DOCTORS' COMMONS, page 257). 
 
 COURTS OF EQUITY (the), namely, those of the Lord Chancellor, 
 the Master of the Rolls, and the Vice-Chancellor of England, sit at 
 Westminster in term-time ; but in the intervals the Lord Chancellor 
 and Vice-Chancellor sit at Lincoln's Inn; and the Master of the Rolls at 
 the Rolls House, in Chancery-lane : the two additional Vice-Chancellors, 
 appointed in 1841, also sit at Lincoln's Inn. The Lord High Chan- 
 cellor was originally a sort of confidential chaplain, or before the 
 Reformation, confessor, to the king, and keeper of the king's con- 
 science. As chief secretary, he advised his master in matters temporal; 
 prepared royal mandates, grants, and charters ; and when seals came 
 in, affixed the same : hence the appointment to the office takes place by 
 the delivery of the Great Seal. His Court has exclusive cognisance of 
 trusts, and the suitors' property exceeds 40,000,OOOZ. 
 
 COURT OF CHANCERY. The present Law Courts, on the west side of 
 the Great Hall at Westminster, were built by Soane, 1820-25, upon the 
 I site of the old Exchequer Chamber, &c. There is little to interest the 
 visitor, except in the Lord Chancellor's Court, where his lordship sits 
 in state, with the mace and an embroidered bag before him; in this 
 ibag the seal is deposited when the Chancellor receives it from the 
 j Sovereign, and when, upon his retirement from office, he delivers it 
 jinto the royal hands : formerly, the Great Seal was worn by the Chan- 
 jcellor on his left side. 
 
 The Great Seal itself is a silver pair of dies, which are closed to 
 receive the melted wax, poured, when an impression is to be taken, 
 through an orifice left in the top. As each impression is attached to 
 a document by a ribbon or slip of parchment, its ends are put into 
 the seal before the wax is poured in ; so that when the hard wax is 
 itaken from the dies, the ribbon or parchment is affixed to it. The im- 
 Ipression of the seal is six inches in diameter, and three-quarters of an 
 jinch thick. On every accession to the throne, a new seal is struck, 
 and the old one is cut into four pieces and deposited in the Tower of 
 
 * Amongst the old manuscript documents in the Town Clerk's Office at 
 jjuilclhall is a petition from Jonathan Wild to the Court of Aldermen, dated 1724, 
 praying to be free of the City, for apprehending and convicting divers felons 
 jeturned from transportation, since October 1720. In 1839, the skeleton of Jona- 
 ihan was in the possession of a surgeon at Windsor. 
 
 G G 
 
450 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 London. Formerly, the seal was broken " by the king's command," 
 and the fragments were given to the poor of religious houses. 
 
 The preseni Great Seal was executed by Benjamin Wyon, R.A. in 1839. 06- 
 verse : The Queen wearing a flowing and sumptuous robe and regal diadem, 
 bearing a sceptre and riding a charger richly caparisoned with plumes and trap- 
 pings, while a page, bonnet in hnnd, gracefully restrains the steed. The legend 
 in the exergue, " Victoria Dei Gratia Britanniarum Regina, Fidei Defensor," 
 is engraved in Gothic letters ; the interspaces of the words being filled with 
 heraldic roses; a crown above, and a trident-head and oak-branches beneath. 
 Reverse: The Queen royally robed and crowned, holding the sceptre and orb, and 
 seated upon a throne beneath a Gothic canopy : on either side is a figure of Jus- 
 tice and Religion ; and beneath are the royal arms and crown; the whole encir- 
 cled by a border of oak and roses. 
 
 The Seal-bag is about twelve inches square, of crimson silk embroi- 
 dered in gold, with the royal arms on each side, fringed with gold bullion; 
 to the bag is attached a stout silken cord, by which it is carried; within 
 is placed the Seal, in a leather pouch, enclosed in a silk purse. 
 
 The Chancellor's Mace is silver-gilt, and about five feet long. The 
 staff and its massive bands are deeply chased with the rose, shamrock, 
 and thistle ; the upper portion consists of a large and richly chased 
 crown, surmounted with the orb and cross, and encircled with crosses- 
 patees and fleurs-de-lis ; and supported on a bold circlet, ornamented 
 in high relief with the emblems of the United Kingdom. 
 
 The mace and seal-bag are laid before the Chancellor when seated 
 tipon the woolsack as Speaker of the House of Lords ; and they are 
 placed upon the table in the Court of Chancery, accompanied by a 
 large nosegay of flowers, conjectured to be the representative of the 
 judge's bough or wand. 
 
 COURT OF EXCHEQUER (the) was formed by William I. in 1079, 
 as a superior Court of Record, in the place of a similar court in his 
 Duchy of Normandv : it included the Common Pleas until 16 John, 
 1215 ; it was remodelled into its present form by Edward I. The name 
 of Exchequer is from the parti- coloured carpet of a table before the 
 Barons, on which the sums of certain of the king's accounts were 
 reckoned by counters : the Chancellor of the Exchequer is the trea- 
 surer ; he presides only when the Court sits as a Court of Equity. 
 
 The Great Poll of the Exchequer (" the Pipe Roll") contains an 
 account of the Crown revenue from 5 Stephen to the present time. 
 To this document nearly every ancient pedigree is indebted ; it has a 
 perfect list of the Sheriffs of the different counties, and almost every 
 name in English historv. 
 
 The Court of Exchequer regulates the election of Sheriffs. Thus, 
 on the morrow of St. Martin, Nov. 12, a Privy Council is held in the 
 Exchequer Court, to receive the report of the Judges of the persons 
 eligible in the several counties to serve as Sheriff. On the bench sits 
 the Chancellor of the Exchequer, in his figured silk gown, trimmed 
 with gold ; next are Members of the Privy Council, the Lord Chan- , 
 cellor, and Judges of the Queen's Bench and Common Pleas ; below , 
 sit the Judges and Chief Baron of the Exchequer, and on the left the 
 Remembrancer of the Court. At this meeting the Judges report the 
 names of three persons eligible for Sheriff in each county, when ex- 
 cuses for exemption are pleaded. The list is again considered by the , 
 Privy Council, and the names finally determined on the approval of Her 
 Majesty in Council, which is done by the Sovereign pricking through 
 the name approved on a long sheet of paper called the Sheriffs' RolL 
 
 The sheriffs of London and Middlesex are, however, chosen by the Livery; 
 but are presented, on the morrow of the Feast of St. Michael, in the Court of E: 
 chequer, accompanied by the Lord Mayor and aldermen, when the Recorder intro- 
 duces the Sheriffs and details their family history, and the Cursitor Baron signi- 
 fies the sovereign's approval ; the writs and appearances are read, recorded, and 
 
LAW COURTS. 451 
 
 filed, and the Sheriffs and senior under-sheriff take the oaths ; and the late Sheriffs 
 present their accounts. The Crier of the court then makes proclamation for one 
 who does homage for the Sheriffs of London to "stand forth and do his duty;" 
 when the senior Alderman below the chair rises, the usher of the court hands him a 
 bill-hook, and holds in both hands a small bundle of sticks, which the Alderman cuts 
 asunder, and then cuts another bundle with a hatchet. Similar proclamation is 
 then made for the Sheriff of Middlesex, when the Alderman counts six horse-shoes 
 lying upon the table, and sixty-one hob-nails handed in a tray; and the numbers 
 are declared twice. The sticks are thin peeled twigs, tied in a bundle at each end 
 with red tape ; the horse-shoes are of large size, and very old ; the hob-nails are 
 supplied fresh every year. By the first ceremony the Alderman does suit and 
 service for the tenants of a manor in Shropshire, the chopping of sticks betoken- 
 ing the custom of the tenants supplying their lord with fuel. The counting of 
 the horse-shoes and nails is another suit and service of the owners of a forge in 
 St. Clement Danes, Strand, which formerly belonged to the City, but no longer 
 exists. Sheriff Hoare, in his MS. journal of his shrievalty, 1740-41, says, wheie 
 the tenements and lands are situated " no one knows, nor doth the City receive 
 any rents or profits thereby." 
 
 On Nov. 9 the oath is administered in the Court of Exchequer to the Lord 
 Mayor elect ; the late Lord Mayor renders his accounts ; and the Recorder invites 
 the barons to the inauguration-banquet at Guildhall. 
 
 The Court of Exchequer has two seals: the Great Seal, used not more than 
 ten or twelve times a year, except on Seal Days, in passing the accounts in 
 court. The other, a small Initial, Seal, which formerly contained the Chancel- 
 lor's initials, but now bears the letters C. E., is affixed to writs, " is in daily use, 
 and seldom idle during official hours." Notes, by F. S. Thomas, Record Office. 
 
 The Courts of Exchequer, Queen's Bench, and Common Pleas are 
 also held at Guildhall on certain days, four in each term. 
 
 Into the Exchequer Chamber are adjourned " Crown Reserved 
 Cases," writs of error from other Courts, before the whole of the 
 Judges, who upon such occasions wear their scarlet robes. 
 
 INSOLVEN T DEBTORS' COURT, Portugal-street, Lincoln 's-Inn-fields : 
 
 " A temple dedicated to the genius of seediness," and " the place of daily 
 refuge of all the shabby-genteel people in London. There are more suits of old 
 clothes in it at one time than will be offered for sale in all Houndsditch in a 
 twelvemonth; and more unwashed skins and grisly beards than all the pumps 
 and shaving- shops between Tyburn and Whitechapel could render decent bet ween 
 sunrise and sunset. There is not a messenger or process-server attached to the 
 Court who wears a coat that was made for him ; the very barristers' wigs are ill- 
 powdered, and their curls lack crispness. But the attorneys, who sit below the 
 commissioners, are, after all, the greatest curiosities. The professional establish- 
 ment of the more opulent of these gentlemen consists of a blue bag and a boy. 
 They have no fixed offices, their legal business being transacted in the parlours 
 of public-houses or the yards of prisons, whither they repair in crowds, and 
 canvas for customers after the manner of omnibus-cads. They are of a greasy 
 and mildewed appearance ; and if they can be said to have any vices, perhaps 
 drinking and cheating are most conspicuous among them." Pickwick Papers. 
 
 MARSHALSEA and PALACE COURT was an appendage to the royal 
 house at Westminster: anciently it had exclusive jurisdiction in mat- 
 ters connected with the royal household, and was presided over by the 
 Earl Marshal. It next became a minor court of record for actions for 
 debt, &c. within Westminster and twelve miles round it, except the 
 City of London; its prison being in High-street, Southwark, until con- 
 solidated with the Queen's Bench and Fleet in 1842. The Court, with 
 the Knight-Marshal for judge, existed until Dec. 28,1849, when it was 
 formally adjourned for the last time, and rose never to resume its sittings; 
 the suits being transferred to the Common Pleas and County Courts, 
 and the records to the charge of the Master of the Rolls. The"Marshal- 
 sea Court sat in Southwark until 1801, and subsequently in Great Scot- 
 land-yard, Whitehall ; but it was probably first held in the " Court of 
 Requests," part of the Norman palace at Westminster. Littleton, the 
 eminent lawyer, was appointed by Henry VI. Steward or Judge of the 
 Marshalsea Court. 
 
452 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 MAYOR'S COURT (the) has jurisdiction over all personal and mixed 
 actions within the City, and is held at Guildhall, nominally before the 
 Lord Mayor and aldermen, but really before the Recorder. The office 
 of the Court was formerly in a long gallery at the west end of the 
 Royal Exchange (see p. 276). The records of the Court were saved from 
 the great fire at the Royal Exchange in 1838, and have been arranged 
 in a strong fire-proof closet in a record-room at Guildhall by the town- 
 clerk ; with other records of the reigns of Edward I. Edward III. 
 Richard II. Henry IV. V. and VI. ; books of precedents, James I. ; 
 records from Elizabeth to George I. Francis Bancroft was an officer 
 of this Court, and despised for his mercenary conduct, which he atoned 
 for by bequeathing his ill-gotten wealth to build almshouses and a 
 school. (?ee ALMSHOUSES, p. 6, and CHURCHES, p. 130.) 
 
 PRIVY COUNCIL. The Judicial Committee hold their sittings at the 
 Council Office, Whitehall, in a spacious chamber nearly the whole 
 height of the edifice : it is ornamented with Ionic columns of Sienna 
 scagliola shafts and white capitals, and has a rich coved ceiling, with 
 an elegant lantern. 
 
 ROLLS COURT. In vacation the Master sits at the Rolls House, in 
 the Liberty of the Rolls, between Chancery-lane and Fetter-lane : it is 
 exempt from the power of the Sheriff of Middlesex, and of every other 
 officer, except with leave of the Master. The Court adjoins the 
 Master's House and the Chapel, described at page 172. The House, 
 designed by Colin Campbell, was built 1717, when Sir Joseph Jekyll 
 was Master. A great portion of the estate was formerly laid out in 
 gardens, upon which has been built the central portion of a new 
 Record Office. Opposite the Rolls Chapel was Herflet Inn, belonging 
 to the priors of Nocton Park, and occupied by the Six Clerks in the 
 Court of Chancery, who subsequently removed to the west side of the 
 north end of Chancery -lane: they were abolished 1842. 
 
 When Sir William Grant was Master of the Rolls, the court sat in the evening 
 from 6 to 10, and Sir William dined after the court rose : his servant, when he 
 went to bed, left two bottles of wine on the table, which he always found empty 
 in the morning. Sir William lived on the ground-floor of the Rolls House, and 
 when shewing it to his successor in the Mastership, he said: "Here are two or 
 three good rooms; this is my dining-room ; my library and bed-room are beyond; 
 and 1 am told there are some good rooms upstairs, but I was never there." 
 
 SHERIFF'S COURTS (the) are held by each of the Sheriffs of London, 
 near Guildhall, before a judge appointed by him. 
 
 STAR CHAMBER (the) was the ancient council-chamber of the palace 
 at Westminster, wherein the king sat in extraordinary causes. The last- 
 existing Star-Chamber buildings are described at page 396. 
 
 LEADENHALL-STREET, 
 
 (Extending from Cornhill to Aldgate) and the adjoining Market, are 
 named from the manor-house of Leadenhall, which belonged to Sir 
 Hugh Neville in 1309 ; in 1419 Simon Eyre erected upon its site a 
 granary, which he gave to the Corporation ; and adjoining he built a 
 chapel in the Perpendicular style, for the market-people, Leadenhall 
 having then become a market. In this Hall were kept the artillery and 
 other arms of the city ; doles were distributed from here ; in Stow's 
 boyhood, the common beams for weighing wool, and the scales to weigh 
 me'al, were kept here ; and in the lofts above were painted devices for 
 pageants. Chamberlayne describes it, in 1726, as "a noble ancient 
 building, where are great markets for hides and leather, for flesh, poul- 
 try, and other sorts of edibles." In 1730 the market-place was partly 
 rebuilt ; and the leather-market in 1814, when the Chapel and other 
 ancient portions were removed. The " Green Yard" was a portion of 
 
LEICESTER SQUARE. 453 
 
 the garden of the Nevilles; and the Chapel, in Ram-alley, was in- 
 scribed " Dextra Domini exaltavit me." 
 
 Leadenhall was formerly the great meat-market. Don Pedro de 
 Ronquillo, on visiting it, said to Charles II., that he believed there to 
 be more meat sold in that market alone, than in all the kingdom of 
 Spain in a year ; and " he was a very good judge." 
 
 Beneath No. 71 Leadenhall-street is the ancient chapel of St. Mi- 
 chael, Aldgate (see CRYPTS, p. 243). No. 153 has an Early English 
 crypt. Here, too, at "the Two Fans," Peter Motteux, the translator 
 of Rabelais and Don Quixote, kept an India House for " China and 
 Japan wares, fans, tea, muslins, pictures, arreck, and other Indian 
 goods;" rich brocades, Dutch atlases, and other foreign silks, fine 
 Flanders lace and linens. (Spectator, Nos. 288 and 552, by Steele). 
 Motteux wrote a poem upon Tea : he was found dead (murdered) on 
 his birthday, Feb. 19, 1717-18, in a house of ill-fame in Star- court, 
 Butcher-row, Temple Bar. 
 
 In Leadenhall-street, opposite the East India House portico, in 1803, was 
 found the most magnificent Roman tesselated pavement yet discovered in London. 
 It lay at only 9^ feet below the street, but a third side had been cut away for a 
 sewer; it appeared to have been the floor of a room more than twenty feet square. 
 In the centre was Bacchus upon a tiger, encircled with three borders (inflexions 
 of serpents, cornucopias, and squares diagonally concave), and drinking-cups and 
 plants at the angles. Surrounding the whole was a square border of a bandeau 
 of oak, and lozenge figures and true-lovers' knots, and a five-feet outer margin 
 of plain red tiles. The pavement was broken in taking up, but the pieces are 
 preserved in the library of the East India Company ; a fragment of an urn and 
 a jaw-bone were found beneath one corner. " In this beautiful specimen of Roman 
 mosaic," says Mr. Fisher, who published a coloured print of it, "the drawing, 
 colouring, and shadows are all effected by about twenty separate tints, composed 
 of tessellae of different materials, the major part of which are baked earths ; but 
 the more brilliant colours of green and purple, which form the drapery, are of glass. 
 These tessellae are of different sizes and figures, adapted to the situations they 
 occupy in the design." 
 
 In Leadenhall-street are the churches of St. Andrew's TJndershaft 
 (see page 117) and St. Catherine Cree (page 122). On the wall of the 
 latter is a large sun-dial ; and at the east end a curious gateway, built 
 1631. The churchyard was noted for performances of miracle-plays, 
 the earliest known of which relates to St. Catherine. (See also EAST 
 INDIA HOUSE, page 263.) 
 
 LEICESTER SQUARE, 
 
 "Within memory, was called Leicester Fields, from the mansion at its 
 north-east corner, built for Robert Sydney, Earl of Leicester, who died 
 1677. It was let to Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James 
 1. : she died here 1661. Colbert and Prince Eugene also resided here. 
 Pennant well calls it " the pouting place of princes;" because George 
 II., when Prince of Wales, having quarrelled with his father, retired to 
 Leicester House ; and his son Frederick, Prince of "Wales, did the same 
 thing, for the very same reason. The Prince died here in 1751 : his eldest 
 son occasionally resided here until his accession to the throne as George 
 III., when in the front of the mansion he was here hailed as king. 
 
 The last royal tenant of Leicester House was the Duke of Gloucester, 
 grandson of G'eorge II. It was then let to Sir Ashton Lever, whose 
 collection (the Leverian Museum) was exhibited here about 1778. In 
 1788, the Museum was won by lottery by Mr. Parkinson, and removed 
 to the Blackfriars-road, where it was dispersed by auction in 1806. In 
 1791, New Lisle-street was built upon the gardens of Leicester House. 
 
 Dry den dedicates from Gerrard-street (No. 43) his Don Sebastian to Lord 
 Leicester, and calls himself " a poor inhabitant of his Lordship's suburbs, whose 
 best prospect is on the garden of Leicester House." 
 
 Ihe Leverian Museum consisted of ancient guns and other weapons, and horse- 
 
454 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 shoes ; Curiosities from New Zealand and the Pacific islands ; the Sandwich-room, 
 collected in Cook's last voyage; a magnificent specimen of Raphael-ware, from 
 the Medicean collection; specimens of rare plants, zoophytes, minerals, and fos- 
 sils; a Brazilian natural magnet, 184 Ibs. weight ; costumes; amphibia in spirits; 
 and preserved birds, quadrupeds, and fish. (See Dr. Shaw's Catalogue, coloured 
 plates, 1792-6.) 
 
 Westward, adjoining Leicester House, was the residence of the Earl 
 of Aylesbury ; where the Marquis of Caermarthen, in 1G98, entertained 
 Peter the Great. The mansion was named Savile House, from its be- 
 longing to the Savile family ; and here resided Sir George Savile, M.P., 
 in 1780, when the rioters stripped his house of its valuable furniture, 
 books, and paintings, which they burnt in the Fields. 
 
 Miss Lin wood's Needlework was exhibited at Savile House from the com- 
 mencement of the present century until the year after her death in 1845, in her 
 90th year. She worked her first picture when 13 years old, and the last piece 
 when 78 years. The designs were executed with fine crewels dyed expressly for 
 her, on a thick tammy, and were entirely drawn and embroidered by herself. In 
 1785, the pictures were exhibited to the Royal Family at Windsor; next at the 
 Pantheon, Oxford-street; removed in 1798 to the Hanover-square Rooms; and 
 then to Leicester-square. The Collection consisted of 64 pictures, including a 
 portrait of Miss Linwood, at 19, from a crayon painting by Russell; her first 
 piece, Head of St. Peter (Guido); Salvator Mundi (Carlo Dolci), for which 3000 
 guineas had been refused (this picture was bequeathed by Miss Linwood to Her 
 Majesty); Woodman in a Storm (Gainsborough) ; Jephtha's Rash Vow (Opie). 
 The pictures were sold by auction, by Christie and Manson, at Savile House, 
 April 23, 1S46, when the Judgment upon Cain, which occupied ten years' work- 
 ing, brought 6U. la.; the price of neither of the other pictures exceeding 40f. 
 The original Hubert and Arthur, by Northcote, sold for 381. 17*. The entire sale 
 did not realise 1000/. 
 
 At Savile House the National Political Union held its Reform meet- 
 ings ; and here was exhibited, in 1849, an extensive moving Panorama of 
 the Mississippi River, &c. The place has since been a very Noah's 
 Ark of exhibitions, of greater variety than delicacy. 
 
 Leicester Square was built between 1630 and 1671. In 1677, rows 
 of elm-trees extended in the Fields nearly half the width of the present 
 Square, which was enclosed about 1738. In the centre, upon a sculptured 
 stone pedestal, is an equestrian metal statue of George I., modelled by 
 C. Buchard for the Duke of Chandos, and brought from Canons in 
 1747, when it was purchased by the inhabitants of the square ; it was 
 " finely gilt," and within memory was regilt : * over the statue has been 
 built Wyld's colossal Model of the Earth. 
 
 At No. 47, west side, Sir Joshua Reynolds lived from 1761 till his death in 1792. 
 Here he built a gallery for his works, and set up a gay coach, upon the panels of 
 which were painted the four Seasons. Here were given those famous dinner- 
 parties, the first great example in this country " of a cordial intercourse between 
 persons of distinguished pretensions of all kinds ; poets, physicians, lawyers, 
 deans, historians, actors, temporal and spiritual peers, House of Commons men, 
 men of science, men of letters, painters, philosophers, and lovers of the arts, 
 meeting on a ground of hearty ease, good humour, and pleasantry, which exalt 
 my respect for the memory of Reynolds. Jt was no prim fine table he set them 
 ao--vn to. Often was the dinner-board prepared for seven or eight required to 
 accommodate itself to fifteen or sixteen ; for often, on the very eve of dinner, 
 would Sir Joshua tempt afternoon visitors with intimation that Johnson, or Gar- 
 rick, or Goldsmith, was to dine there." Forster's Life of Goldsmith, p. 523. 
 
 Sir Joshua painted in an octagonal room ; the sticks of his brushes were 18 
 inches long ; he held his pallettes by handle ; one of mahogany, 1 1 by 7 inches, 
 is possessed by Mr. Cribb, King-street, Covent Garden, whose father received 
 it from Sir Joshua's niece, the Marchioness of Thomond. Here, in 1790, the 
 good-natured P.R A. painted for two schoolboys a flag bearing the Royal arms, 
 which was borne at the next breaking-up of King's Academy, Chapel street, 
 
 * This statue has also been described as that of the Duke of Cumberland, 
 the hero of CuUoden, which may have arisen from the Duke's birth at Leicester 
 House in 1721. 
 
LEICESTER SQUARE. 455 
 
 Soho. Sir Joshua died here Feb. 28, 1792; his remains were interred in the 
 crypt of St. Paul's Cathedral. The house was afterwards the Western Literary 
 and Scientific Institution, when was added a theatre for lectures. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Square, in the house now the northern 
 wing of the Sabloniere Hotel, lived William Hogarth from 1753; his 
 name upon a brass-plate on the door, and the sign of the Golden Head 
 over it : he usually took his evening walk within the enclosure in a 
 scarlet rocquelare and cocked hat: here he published, by subscription, 
 the Harlot's and Rake's Progresses, and other prints : he died here sud- 
 denly Oct. 25, 1764. Next door lived John Hunter from 1783 : in the 
 rear he built rooms for his anatomical collection, lectures, dissection, 
 Sunday -evening medical levees, &c. ; and from here, in 1793, Hunter 
 was buried in St. Martin's church. To No. 28, also east, was removed 
 the National Repository (on the plan of the Arts et Metiers at Paris) 
 from the King's Mews, taken down in 1830; and here was housed, in 
 1836, the Museum of the Zoological Society. 
 
 In the centre of the east side of the Square is the Panopticon of 
 Science and Art, erected 1852-3, by a chartered company for a polytechnic 
 exhibition : it has a pair of minarets nearly 100 feet high, a domed roof, 
 and other eastern features. The interior has a hall 97 feet in diameter, 
 lecture-theatres, laboratory, colossal machinery for experiments; an 
 electrifying-machine, plate eight feet diameter, &c. 
 
 In the centre of the Square is the Model of the Earth, just mentioned. 
 
 The ground was leased, in 1851, for ten years, for 3000/., to Mr. Wyld.the geo- 
 grapher, for whom has been erected here (H. R. Abraham, architect,) a circular 
 building 90 feet across, enclosing a Globe 60 feet 4 inches in diameter, and lighted by 
 day from the centre of the dome (as at the Pantheon at Rome), and by gas at night. 
 The frame of the Globe consists of horizontal ribs, battened to receive the plaster 
 modelling, thus to figure the earth's surface on the inside instead of the outside 
 of a sphere, and to shew at one view the physical features of the world. The 
 visitor passes into the interior of the Globe, and by a winding staircase proceeds 
 round it, viewing every part of the model at four feet distance from the eye. The 
 scale is tenmiles to an inch horizontal, and one mile to an inch vertical, so aseffec- 
 tively to exhibit the details of hill and valley, lake and river: the great oceans 
 occupying nearly 150,000,000 square miles; and the old and new continents, and 
 all the islands, only 60,000,000 square miles; the gigantic model being made up 
 of some thousand castings in plaster. The Circumpolar Regions are similarly 
 illustrated; and by these ingenious means has "the desert of Leicester-square 
 been converted into a great geographical school." 
 
 In Cranbourne-alley, now street, lived Ellis Gamble, silversmith, to 
 whom Hogarth was apprenticed to learn silver-plate engraving, and 
 engraving on copper ; and from 1718 till 1724 he earned his livelihood 
 by engraving arms, crests, ciphers, shop-bills, &c. An impression of 
 Hogarth's allegorical shop-card, dated 1720, has been sold for 251. ! 
 
 Burford's Panorama, at the north-east angle of Leicester Square, 
 has been established nearly 70 years ; the building having been erected 
 in 1783, by a number of patrons of the arts, who were repaid their capital 
 by Robert Barker, the inventor of the Panorama, succeeded by Henry 
 Aston Barker, and John and Robert Burford. (See PA.NOBAMAS.) 
 
 In Leicester-place, Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, built in 1796 
 the Sans Souci theatre for his musical entertainment: the premises, 
 No, 2, now an hotel, occupy the site of the Feathers public-house, 
 frequented by "Athenian Stuart;" Scott, the marine painter; Luke 
 Sullivan, the miniature-painter, who engraved Hogarth's March to 
 Finchley ; Capt. Grose and Mr. Hearne, the antiquaries ; Henderson, 
 the actor ; John Ireland, editor of Hogarth Moralised, &c. In Lisle- 
 street is the Royal Society of Musicians, founded in 1738 for the benefit 
 of the families of indigent musicians: it originated in the two orphan 
 sons of Kaitch, the oboist, being seen driving mileh-asses down the Hay- 
 market. In Lisle-street lived Henry Bone, R.A., the enamel-painter, 
 
456 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 who received for an enamel, 18 by 16 inches, 2200 guineas : he died 1834, 
 aged 80, leaving a long series of 'Elizabethan portraits. 
 
 Leicester-street is described, in 1720, as " ordinarily built and inha- 
 bited, except the west side, towards the fields, where there is a very 
 good house and curious garden which fronts the fields." 
 
 In St. Martin-street, next the chapel, is the last town residence of Sir 
 Isaac Newton, who removed here, in 1710, from Jermyn-street : upon 
 the roof is a small observatory, built by a subsequent tenant, a French- 
 man, but long shewn as Newton's. In a scarce pamphlet, A List oftht 
 Royal Society, $c., in 1718, we find: "Sir Isaac Newton, St. Martin- 
 street, Leicester-fields." The house was subsequently tenanted by Dr 
 Burney, when writing his History of Music : and his daughter, Fanny, 
 wrote here her novel of Evelina. Mr. Bewley, "the philosopher o? 
 Massingham," died here, during a visit to Dr. Burney, who, in an anec- 
 dote related to Boswell (Life of Johnson), erroneously states Newton 
 to have died here : he died at Kensington (see page 431). 
 
 Fanny Burney (Madame D'Arblay), writes from here in 1779 and 1780 (Diary 
 and Letters, vol. i.) ; and Mr. Thrale, writing to Miss Burney, styles the inmate* 
 of the house in St. Martin's-street, " dear Newtonians." 
 
 In Green-street, at now No. 11, lived William Woollett, the land- 
 scape and historical engraver, known by his masterly plates of Wilson's 
 pictures and his battle-pieces : his portrait, by Stuart, hangs in thv 
 Vernon Gallery. He died 1785, and is buried at St. Pancras (see p. 
 152) ; his grave- stones were restored by the Graphic Society in 1846. 
 
 In Orange-court, Leicester-fields, lodged Opie, the painter ; and 
 here was born, Dec. 10, 1745, Thomas Holcroft, his father a shoemaker 
 
 " Cradled in poverty, with no education save what he could pick up for him- 
 self, amid incessant struggles for hare existence by turns a pedlar, a stable-boy. 
 a shoemaker, and a strolling-playerhe yet contrived to surmount the most un- 
 toward circumstances, and at last took his place among the most distinguishes 
 writers of his age as a novelist, a dramatist, and a translator." Preface to Hoi* 
 croft's Life, by William Hazlitt. 
 
 Leicester-square has long been the resort and habitat of foreigners^ 
 and Maitland (1739) describes the parish (St. Anne's) so greatly abound- 
 ing with French, "that it is an easy matter for a stranger to imagina 
 himself in France." 
 
 LEVELS. 
 
 The data for the following Levels, from actual surveys and private 
 documents, adopting the standard of Trinity High Water Mark at 
 London Bridge, have been communicated through the courtesy of Mr, 
 Wyld, the geographer. 
 
 Berkeley-square 57 
 
 British Museum 72 
 
 Brompton-square .... 12 
 Caledonian-road : Great Nor- 
 thern Railway 112 
 
 Camden Town : Brecknock 
 
 Arms 150 
 
 Camden Town : London and 
 North - Western Railway 
 
 Station 100 
 
 Clapham Common (S.W.) . . 93 
 Drury-lane, opposite Great 
 
 Queen -street 66 
 
 Farringdon-street .... 11 
 Gloucester-road, Kensington . 18 
 Guildhall, King-street ... 67 
 
 Hampstead Heath . . . .424 
 (84 feet higher than the cross of 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral.) 
 Hampstead Vale (Water- 
 works) 207 
 
 (5 feet higher than the top of the 
 
 Monument.) 
 Haverstock Hill : Orphan 
 
 School 258 
 
 (28 feet higher than the steeple of 
 St. Bride's Church, Fleet-st.) 
 
 Highbury Barn 132 
 
 (12 feet higher than the towers of 
 St. Michael's Church, Cornhill, 
 and St. Dunstan's, Fleet-st.) 
 Highgate Archway (top) . . 317 
 Tavern . 179 
 
LEVELS. LIBRARIES. 
 
 457 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Westbourne - terrace, Hyde- 
 park - gardens (ground- 
 floor); 70 feet above high- 
 water mark, and on a level 
 with the attics of Eaton and 
 Belgrave squares. 
 
 Westminster : the further we 
 proceed from the river, the 
 lower the ground becomes, 
 thus : 
 
 Above 
 high-water 
 mark, 
 ft. in. 
 
 St. Margaret's-street, near Can- 
 ning's statue 5 2J 
 
 Millbank-street 4 4 
 
 West end of Tothill-street . . 9 
 
 Broad- way 9 
 
 New-way 6i 
 
 Old Pye-street 5} 
 
 Below 
 high-water. 
 
 New Tothill-street 3J 
 
 Road in front of Mr. Elliot's 
 
 dwelling-house Hi 
 
 Palmer's Village 12 
 
 Mr. Bardwell, the Architect. 
 
 The architect of the New Prison was 
 compelled to raise the ground 7 feet ; 
 the ground has also been much raised 
 around the New Palace, over and above 
 that which was made when the Bird- 
 cage Walk was carried over the site of 
 Rosamond's Pond. 
 
 Again, the sill of a door in Park- 
 street is somewhat more than 8 feet 
 higher than the sill of a door in Tothill- 
 street, Dartmouth-street only inter- 
 vening. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Highgate Chapel 412 
 
 Holloway: New City Prison 
 (surface) 112 
 
 Hornsey Wood House Tavern 147 
 
 Hyde-park : site of Great Ex- 
 hibition Building .... 52 
 
 Islington : Angel Inn . . . 99 
 , , Ball's Pond-road . 59 
 ,, Green 115 
 
 Mansion House 32 
 
 New Oxford-street, opposite 
 Charlotte-st., Bloomsbury . 72 
 
 New River : Stoke Newington 
 Reservoir 87 
 
 New-road: G ower -street . . 76 
 
 Notting-hill (by St. John's 
 Wood) 85 
 
 Notting-hill Reservoir . . .123 
 
 Nunhead Cemetery Hill . . 189 
 (14 feet higher than the spire of 
 St. Giles's Church.) 
 
 Park-lane, halfway .... 69 
 
 Pentonville Prison (surface) . 120 
 
 ilegent's-park : York and Al- 
 bany 99 
 
 (The houses in Circus-road, St. 
 John's Wood, are level with the 
 summit of Primrose Hill.) 
 erpentine (surface) .... 38 
 
 hooter's-hill 412 
 
 horeditch Workhouse, Kings- 
 land-road 51 
 
 mithfield: St. Bartholomew's 
 
 Hospital 45 
 
 tamford-hill 97 
 
 trand, average 20 
 
 The highest ground in London is about the middle of Pannier-alley, 
 btween Newgate-street and Paternoster-row ; the spot being denoted 
 w a boy sitting upon a pannier, upon a pedestal, all of stone ; the latter 
 liscribed, "WHEN YE HAVE SOVGHT THE CITTY ROVND, YET STILL THIS 
 
 | THE HIGHT- GROVND. AvGVST THE 27, 1688." 
 
 ! The made ground and accumulated debris occurring in the City, and 
 jiciently populated parts adjacent, varies from 8 to 18 feet in thickness ; 
 j Westminster, from 6 to 12 feet. 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 I " The greatest city in the world is destitute of a public library," 
 ote Gibbon towards the close of the last century ; since which 
 'iod little has been done to afford the masses facilities for mental 
 ture by an open public library from which books may be taken out. 
 'There is no library in London, public or private, which contains every work 
 n which one authoritative statement on matters of science might be made." 
 f. De Morgan, Compan. Almanac, 1843. 
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF ENGLAND (ROYAL), 12 Hanover-square : 
 ary of the Board of Agriculture, increased by purchases, &c. 
 ANTIQUARIES, SOCIETY OF, Somerset House: valuable collections of 
 
458 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 red Broadsides and Ballads ; rare Prints, illustrating Ancient London; 
 the Book of St. Albans, fol. St. Albans, I486, finest state. Among the 
 Mss. are, 1. Cartulary of the Abbey of Peterborough. 2. Original Ms. 
 of "Weever's Funeral Monuments. 3. Indentures for Coining Money in 
 England and Ireland, from Edward L to Elizabeth. 4. The " Winton 
 Domesday," on 33 leaves of vellum, and in the original stamped cuir- 
 bouilli coders : this MS. (temp. Edward I.) contains an exact account 
 of every tenement in Winchester at that period. 5. Original Letters 
 of Antiquaries and Literary Men (18th century). 6. Letters of Emi- 
 nent Englishmen (17th century). Autograph of John Bunvan, doubt- 
 ful. The Society's Transactions, Archaologia, commenced 1710. 
 
 ARTILLERY GROUND, or Military Yard, behind Leicester House. 
 
 Near Leicester-fields, upon the site of Gerrard-street, was a piece of ground 
 walled in by Prince Henry, eldest son of James I., for the exercise of arms: 
 where were an armoury, and a well-furnished library of books relating to feats o 
 arms, chivalry, military affairs, encamping, fortification, in all languages, anc 
 kept by a learued librarian. It was called the Artillery Ground ; and alter thi 
 Restoration of Charles II. it was bought by Lord Gerard, and let for building 
 about 1677. 
 
 ASIATIC SOCIETY (ROYAL), 5 New Burlington-street : scarce books 
 and Mss., including a collection of Sanscrit Mss., formed by Colone 
 Tod in Rajasthan. Here is a Chinese Library, of which see thr Cata 
 logue, by the Rev. S. Kidd, 1838. 
 
 ASTRONOMICAL SOCIETY, ROYAL, Somerset House: valuable collecj 
 tion of astronomical works, including Peter Apian's Opus C'&sareum, 
 printed at Ingolstadt in 1540; and the library of the Mathematica 
 Society. (See page 463.) 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND LIBRARY, instituted by the Directors f 
 use of the clerks, was opened May 1850; the Court having voted 500i 
 for the purchase of books. 
 
 BARBER-SURGEONS' HALL, Monkwell-street: a curious collectio 
 of books on olden Anatomy. 
 
 BEAUMONT INSTITUTION, Mile-end, built and endowed with 13,000 
 by Mr. Barber Beaumont, has a library of 4000 volumes, a music-hal 
 and museum of natural history. 
 
 BIBLE SOCIETY, BRITISH AND FOREIGN, 10 Earl-street, Blac' : . 
 collection of versions of the Scriptures, in various languages or dialect 
 
 Since its foundation, the Bible Society has issued upwards of 2*^H 
 copies of the Scriptures, and has aided other Societies in the distribution M 
 about 18,000,000 more. In Ireland, since 1806, 2,700,COO Bibles and Testamen 
 have been dispersed. In France, since 1818, 3,000,000 have been circulate 
 In 1849, 27,000 were introduced into Italy. 
 
 BOTANICAL SOCIETY, 20 Bedford-street, Covent Garden, has 
 library of works on botany for reference and circulation; besid- 
 Britisli and general herbaria* for the exchange of specimens. 
 BRITISH MUSEUM. See MUSEUMS. 
 
 CHARTER-HOUSE, Aldersgate : a collection presented by bookselle 
 and others for the reading of the Brotherhood. In 1651 Queen A 
 presented the Quarterly Review, 86 vols. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL: History, Voyages, and Travels^ and Milita 
 Memoirs, Newspapers, and Periodicals for the pensioners' reading. 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Newgate-street, "formerly the Grey F 
 hath a neat librar for the use of the masters and scholars ; beside 
 
 factor. 
 
LIBRARIES. 459 
 
 CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, Salisbury-square, Fleet-street : 
 miscellaneous collection, rich in voyages and travels. 
 
 Cirr OF LONDON INSTITUTION, Aldersgate-street, commenced in 
 1825, contained upwards of 7000 volumes for reference and circulation ; 
 dispersed in 1852, when the Institution was dissolved. 
 
 CIVIL ENGINEERS (INSTITUTION OF), 25 Great George-street, West- 
 minster : upwards of 3000 volumes, and 1500 tracts, upon bridges, 
 canals, railways, roads, docks, navigation, ports, rivers, and water; 
 '"ransactions of Societies, Parliamentary Reports, &c. Here are some 
 olumes of MS. observations by Telford in his early engineering career. 
 This library has the advantage of a printed catalogue, admirably ar- 
 anged by C. Manby, Secretary to the Institution.) 
 
 CLOCKMAKERS' COMPANY, London Tavern, Bishopsgate-street : a 
 ending library of valuable English and foreign works on Horology 
 nd the allied sciences, with a printed catalogue. 
 CLUB-HOUSES (the) have extensive general libraries. 
 COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, Pall Mall East. (See page 227.) In this 
 ollection are the libraries of Selden and the Marquis of Dorchester ; 
 ad Sir Theodore May erne, physician to James I. 
 
 COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln's-Inn-fields: library commenced by 
 ohn Hunter's donation of his published works on Anatomy and Surgery 
 i 1786, the unique autograph letter accompanying which is possessed 
 y Mr. Stone, the present Librarian. Sir Charles Blicke bequeathed his 
 icdical library, and 3007. ; and the collection now numbers 30,000 
 olumes (cost 23,0007.) ; mostly works on the history, science, and prac- 
 ce of medicine and the collateral sciences : its collection of Transac- 
 ons and Journals is very perfect. 
 
460 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 VIII., with marginal notes of events ; woodcuts, mostly coloured. Complaint of 
 Roderick Mars, sometime a Gray Fryare (Geneva), said by Kennett to have been 
 written by Henry Brincklow, a London merchant. Bonner's Profitable and Ne- 
 cessary Doctrine, bl. 1. 1555. Declaration of Bonner's Articles, bl. 1. 1561. 
 A Boke made by John Fryth, Prysoner in the Tower of London, bl. 1. 1546. 
 The Actes of English Votaryes, by Johan Bale, bl. 1. 1546. The Castel of Helth (by 
 Sir Jo. Elyot), bl. 1. 1541. The Burnynge of Paule's Church, &c. (written against 
 Popery, by Pilkington, Bishop of Durham), bl. L 1591. Legenda Sanctorum, fol. 
 bl. 1. n. d.* A collection of early printed Plays and Pageants. 
 
 Among the autographic Curiosities is the Charter granted by Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror to the City of London in 1067. It is beautifully 
 written in Saxon characters, in about four lines, upon a slip of parch- 
 ment six inches long and one broad. 
 
 Also, in a glass-case, is the signature of Shakspeare, purchased in 
 1843, by the Corporation of London, for 14:51. : it is affixed to a deed of 
 bargain and sale of " all that messuage or tente with the app'tennes 
 lyeing and being in the blackfryers in London, neare the Wardrobe," by 
 Henry Walker to William Shakspeare, dated March 10, 1612; and has 
 the seals attached, and the names of the attesting witnesses on the back. 
 The house is described as " abutting upon a streete leading down 
 to Pudle wharffe" (now St. Andrew's Hill), and was in Ireland-yard, 
 named after the tenant, William Ireland, about the time of the a'bove 
 sale: it was bequeathed by Shakspeare in his will to his daughterj 
 Susannah Hall. Here, too, is" the sign-stone of the Boar's Head Tavern i 
 (See EASTCHEAP, page 205.) 
 
 COTTONIAN LIBRABY (the), now in the British Museum, was col-, 
 lected by Sir Robert Bruce Cotton, the learned antiquary, who greatlj 
 profited by the dissolution of monasteries half a century before, by 
 which the records, charters, and instruments were thrown into private, 
 hands. Sir Robert Cotton was the friend of Camden, and greatly as-, 
 sisted him in his Britannia. The library was kept in Cotton House, at 
 the west end of Westminster Hall, and was greatly increased by Sir 
 Robert's son and grandson; in 1700 it was purchased by Act of 'Par-- 
 liament, and in 1706 Cotton House was sold to the Crown for 4500/. ! 
 but the mansion falling into decay, in 1712 the library was removed te 
 Essex House, Strand ; and thence, in 1730, to Ashburnham House 
 Westminster (see page 22). Here, Oct. 23,1731, a fire broke out, b\, 
 which 111 MSS. were lost, burnt, or entirely defaced, and 99 renderec; 
 imperfect. What remained were removed into the new dormitor 
 of Westminster School. In 1738 was bequeathed to the collectioi. 
 Major Arthur Edwards's library of 2000 printed volumes; and in 175'. 
 the whole were transferred to the British Museum. The Cottoniai 
 collection originally contained 958 volumes of original Charters, Roya 
 Letters, Foreign State Correspondence, Ancient Registers : it was kep 
 in cases, upon which were the heads of the 12 Caesars ; and the Mss. ar< 
 distinguished by the press-marks of the Caesars. Humphrey Wanle 
 published a catalogue of the Cottonian Library, which is'nrinutel; 
 noticed by Chamberlayne, Magnce Britannia Notitia, 1726. Abov 
 the bookcases were portraits of the three Cottons, Judge Dodderidge 
 Spelman, Camden, Dugdale, Lambard, Speed, &c. An extended cata- 
 logue was printed in 1802. 
 
 Besides Mss., the Cottonian collection contained Saxon and old English coins 
 and Roman and English antiquities, all now in the British Museum. Sir Robei 
 Cotton aided Speed in his History of England, and Knolles in his Turkish Histw 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, Selden, and Lord Bacon drew materials from the Cottonia 
 Library; and, in our time, Lingard's and Sharon Turner's Histories of Englana 
 and numerous other works, have proved its treasures unexhausted. 
 
 * From notes obligingly communicated by Mr. W. T. Alchin, Librarian, 
 
LIBRARIES. 461 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF PRACTICAL ART, Maryborough House, Pall Mall : 
 collection of works of reference for Manufactures and Ornamental 
 Lrt, originally formed for the Schools of Design. About 1500 volumes 
 n architecture, sculpture, painted glass, general antiquities, and deco- 
 ation ; prints and drawings, including Raphael's Arabesques, coloured ; 
 riginal Sketches of the Cathedral of Messina, and the Church of 
 t. Ambrose, Milan ; and many elementary and practical works on art 
 nd ornamental design. 
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS (College of Advocates), Great Knight Rider- 
 treet. See page 258. 
 
 DULWICH COLLEGE LIBRARY. See page 209. 
 
 DUTCH CHURCH, Austin Friars: for the use of foreign Protestants 
 nd their clergy: containing Mss. and Letters of Calvin, Peter Martyr, 
 d others, foreign Reformers ; the Ten Commandments, believed to 
 in the handwriting of Rubens. 
 
 EAST INDIA COMPANY, Leadenhall-street, north-east wing of the 
 dia House : printed books and tracts relating to the history and geo- 
 aphy of the Eastern hemisphere ; the history, commerce, and adminis- 
 ation of the East India Company, printed in Europe or India ; books, 
 awings, and prints of the people, scenery, and antiquities of Asiatic 
 untries ; Mss. on palm-leaves in Sanscrit, Burmese, and other lan- 
 uages of the Archipelago, and Sanscrit Mss. in 3000 bound volumes ; 
 hinese printed works ; Tibetan Cyclopaedia in 300 large oblong 
 ilumes, printed with wooden blocks ; Arabic and Persian Mss. ; mi- 
 ature copies of the Koran ; another Koran, in old Cufic characters, 
 ritten out by the Khalif Othman (d. A.D. 655), and other volumes of 
 e library of Tippoo Sultan ; his autograph " Register of Dreams," 
 c. Open to students recommended. (See EAST INDIA Ho USE, page 264.) 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY (ROYAL), 3 Waterloo-place, Pall Mall : up- 
 ards of 4000 volumes, mostly geographical ; 150 Atlases ; more than 
 K)0 pamphlets; 10,000 maps and charts: available as a circulating 
 jrary by the Fellows. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S LIBRARY, Somerset House, contains seve- 
 ll rare and curious treatises, &c., chiefly of the 17th century, and re- 
 ting to the cosmogonical and hypothetical notions about the earth and 
 H structure, the origin and nature of minerals and fossils, natural 
 story, early chemistry, &c. 
 
 GRESHAM COLLEGE, Basinghall- street, has a small library of mo- 
 srn books for the use of the lecturers. The College does not appear 
 I have originally possessed a library, but to have used that of the 
 loyal Society, the removal of which to Crane-court in 1710 proved a 
 eat disadvantage to the Gresham Professors. (Ward's Lives, p. 175.) 
 ee GRESHAM COLLEGE, p. 209.) The books subsequently possessed 
 the College were burnt in the Royal Exchange, Jan. 10, 1838. 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES (THE) often contain collections of 
 rly treatises upon their arts and mysteries. 
 HARLEIAN LIBRARY and Mss. (See MUSEUMS: British.) 
 HEBREW LIBRARY, Duke's-place, Aldgate. 
 
 The Jews, in Bevis Marks, had a valuable library in their Synagogue, relating 
 their ceremonials and Talmudical worship ; but some narrow minds among 
 m conceiving that if they should get into the hands of Christians, they would 
 disgraced by shameful translations, agreed among themselves to cause them, 
 be burnt; for which purpose they employed some of their scribes, or tephilim 
 iters, to examine into the correctness of the copies ; and receiving a report 
 eeable to their wishes, they had them conveyed to Mile End, where they were 
 
462 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 all destroyed in a kiln ; for it is contrary to their maxim ever to make waste paper 
 of the sacred language. H. Lemoine; Gentleman s Magazine, July 1790. 
 
 HERALDS' COLLEGE (College of Arms), see page 211. Here is a 
 curious collection of works on Heraldry, Arms, Ceremonies, Corona- 
 tions, Marriages, Funerals, Christenings, and Visitations; an ancient 
 Nennius on vellum, and Robert of Gloucester's Chronicle. 
 
 HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, 21 Regent-street : the largest collection 
 of horticultural works in the kingdom, and an assemblage of drawings 
 of fruits and ornamental plants. 
 
 HOSPITALS, the several, possess medical libraries. 
 INCORPORATED LAW SOCIETY, Chancery -lane : the law and litera- 
 ture connected with the profession ; Votes, Reports, Acts, Journals, 
 and other proceedings of Parliament ; County and Local Histories ; 
 topographical, genealogical, and antiquarian works, &c. 
 
 INNS OF COURT. The INNER and MIDDLE TEMPLE each possesses 
 a good library, with valuable Mss. The INNER TEMPLE Mss., prin- 
 cipally collected by William Petyl, Esq., Keeper of the Tower Re- 
 cords, were presented by his trustees in 1707 : they exceed 400 Mss., 
 parliamentary statutes and common law, ecclesiastical records, year- 
 books, Hoveden, Higden, and other English historians, letters and 
 papers, with signs-manual of kings and queens of England. The 
 MIDDLE TEMPLE LIBRARY, adjoining the Hall in Garden-court, was 
 founded under a bequest from Kobert Ashley, Esq., in 1641 : the Mss. 
 include Placita records, Edward I.; Parliament Rolls, Edward II. to 
 Henry VI.; Parliamentary Journals, &c. See LINCOLN'S INN, page 411; 
 (also Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn and its Library}; GRAY'S INN, law and I 
 history. Most of the INNS OF CHANCERY have also libraries. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE, Somerset House, has large medical and general 
 libraries; including the Marsden Library, 3000 volumes on Philosophy J 
 and Oriental Literature, presented in 1835 by William Marsden, F.R.S. j 
 The Medical Library contains about 2000 volumes. 
 LAMBETH PALACE LIBRARY. See page 445. 
 
 LINN & AN SOCIETY, 32 Soho-square : the Library and Herbarium > 
 of Linnaeus, purchased by Sir James Smith for 1000Z. In the Society's , 
 house Sir Joseph Banks collected his valuable library of works on Na- ,' 
 tural History, now in the Banksian department of the British Museum: 
 the catalogue fills five octavo volumes, and is very rare. 
 
 LITERARY FUND (ROYAL), 73 Great Russell-strest, Bloomsbury: a 
 collection of books, mostly modern, and presents. Here is also the Ms. 
 of Thorlaksin's Icelandic "version of Paradise Lost, sent to the Institu- 
 tion by himself, through the Danish government. Here is the dag- 
 ger with which Colonel Blood stabbed Edwards, keeper of the Re- 
 galia in the Tower of London, when Blood attempted to carry off the 
 crown; also a dagger taken from Parrot, Blood's accomplice. Both 
 weapons are of French manufacture, and very curious: they were 
 bequeathed to the Institution by Mr. Thomas Newton, who believing 
 himself to be the last descendant of Sir Isaac Newton, left his entire : 
 estate to the Literary Fund. 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbnry-circus, commenced in 1806 with 
 part of the library of the first Marquis of Lansdowne, contains about 
 30,000 volumes : rich in English Antiquities and Topography ; scarce ' 
 collections of Foreign Laws ; several thousand Tracts ; Bibliography, 
 including rare editions from the early presses of Germany. Italy, an 
 France; and fine specimens of the printing of the celebrated Antoine 
 Verard. the Wec-hel. the Stephani. Claude Morel, Christopher Plantin, 
 Juhann Froben, Guarinus, Hieronymus Commelin, Henricus Petrus,the 
 
LIBRARIES. 463 
 
 Aldi, the Sessse, Gabriel Giolito, and the Giunti ; with some from the 
 English printers, Julian Notary, Peter Treveris, Richard Grafton, Tho- 
 mas Marshe, John Cawood, &c. The first librarians were Professor 
 Person and William Upcott ; one of the present librarians is Richard 
 [Thomson, author of the Chronicles of London Bridge, 1827. This 
 Collection is valued at 40,OOOZ. 
 
 LONDON LIBRARY, 12 St. James's-square (the house tenanted by 
 
 Lord Amherst when Commander-in-chief), was established in May 
 
 JL841 at 57 Pall Mall, and removed to St. James's-square in 1844. It 
 
 upon the subscription and lending plan, and the collection admirable. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S, 42 Castle-street, Leicester-square: about 4000 vo- 
 
 umes, bequeathed by Archbishop Tenison in 1685, then Rector of St. 
 
 Vlartin's : here is a fine copy of Chaucer. The Library is described as 
 
 a noble structure, extremely well contrived for the placing of the 
 
 ooks and lights, and furnished with the best modern books in most 
 
 acuities: the best of its kind in England." H. Lemoine, 1790. 
 
 MATHEMATICAL SOCIETY, Crispin-street, Spitalfields, established 
 1717, had a library, of which a catalogue was published in 1821 ; but 
 le books and archives were removed to Somerset House in 1845, when 
 tie Mathematical Society merged into the Royal Astronomical Society. 
 MECHANICS' INSTITUTE. Southampton-buildings, Holborn, founded 
 y Dr. Birkbeck in 1823; who also, in 1825, advanced a large sum for 
 milding the fine theatre of the Institution. The library has 6000 vols. 
 MEDICAL AND CHIRURGICAL SOCIETY, 53 Berners-street, Oxford- 
 treet : about 20,000 volumes on Medicine, Surgery, &c. 
 
 MEDICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 33 George-street, Hanover-square, 
 as a collection of books, including the library bequeathed by Dr. Lett- 
 om, with a house in Bolt-court, Fleet-street. (See page 306.) 
 
 MERCHANT-TAYLORS' SCHOOL LIBRARY, Suffolk-lane, Cannon- 
 treet, contains a fair collection of Hebrew and other Oriental works 
 f reference; some good copies of the Fathers; nearly all the standard 
 lassical and other Lexicons; and the best writers in English Theology, 
 .'he Merchant-Taylors' Company devote thirty guineas per annum to 
 he increase and keeping up of this library ; and frequent presents have 
 >een made to it by Members of the Court. 
 
 MICROSCOPICAL SOCIETY, 21 Regent-street: a library of standard 
 porks on the Microscope ; the perfection of which valuable instrument 
 the object of the Institution. 
 
 MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, Jermyn-street, St. James's: 
 are edition of the works of Aldrovandus ; collection of alchemical 
 reatises and histories ; Kircher's works ; olden Topography, Voyages 
 nd Travels; collection of Surveys, &c. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE, St. John's Wood (see page 212), possesses a library 
 '20,000 volumes, including the theological collections from Coward, 
 omerton, and Highbury Colleges ; and is otherwise rich in works for 
 the Congregational denomination." 
 
 PARLIAMENT (HOUSES OF) possess large and valuable libraries. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL Library, in the gallery over the southern 
 isle, was collected by Bishop Compton: 7000 volumes, with Mss. 
 elating to Old St. Paul's. (See page 92.) 
 
 ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL, St. Paul's Churchyard, contains the library of 
 ean Colet, the munificent founder. The original statutes of this 
 liool were accidentally picked up at a bookseller's by the late Mr. 
 amper of Birmingham, and by him presented to the British Museum. 
 
464 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 PHARMACEUTICAL SOCIETY (THE), 17 Bloomsbury-square, has a 
 library, museum, and laboratory. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar-square: all the best works 
 on Art ; besides Prints, including a valuable collection of engravings 
 from the Italian School, from the earliest period, collected by George 
 Cumberland. The former library-room, at Somerset House, has a ceil- 
 ing painted by Angelica Kauffman, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other Aca- 
 demicians. The office of Librarian is usually given to an Academician : 
 "Wilson, Fuseli, and Stothard were librarians. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF Music, 4 Tenterden-street, Hanover-square, 
 has a library of music, practical, for the use of the students. Here is 
 preserved the original deed, dated 1719, signed by several noblemen,; 
 subscribers to a Royal Academy of Music, from which was formed the' 
 first Italian Opera in England. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTE OF ARCHITECTS, 16 Grosvenor-street : abont ( 
 2000 volumes on Architecture and its attendant sciences; includingj 
 the Prussian Government's educational works; that by Lepsius on 
 Egypt; and large and expensive books of curiosity and reference, such 
 as Piranesi and Canina. The Mss. and original Drawings comprise) 
 Stuart's commencement of a Dictionary of Architecture : Weennick'f 
 Lives of Flemish Architects ; and about 2000 drawings of antiquities, 
 modern edifices, and designs by English, French, Italian, and Germar 
 architects of the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTION, Albemarle-street : about 27,000 volumes, in- 
 cluding the curious library of Astle, the antiquary ; topographical, anti 
 quarian, classical, and scientific works ; parliamentary history, &c. 
 
 ROYAL LIBRARY (THE), ST. JAMES'S PALACE, was originally foundec 
 by Edward VI., who appointed Bartholomew Trahuon keeper, with*| 
 salary of 201. : the first books mostly collected by Leland, at the disso ] 
 lution ; and here were deposited his " Collections," presented by hint 
 to King Edward, but subsequently dispersed. James I. refounded the! 
 library, and added the collection of the learned Isaac Casaubon. Tht 
 entire collection was presented to the British Museum, in 1757, bjl 
 George II. ; and to the gift was annexed the privilege, which the Roya \ 
 Library had acquired in the reign of Queen Anne, of being suppliec j 
 with a copy of every new publication entered at Stationers' Hall. Ii 
 St. James's Palace was also the Queen's Library, built by Kent, foii 1 
 Caroline, consort of George II., in the Stable-yard : here were two fint; 
 marble busts of George II. and Queen Caroline, by Rysbrack, botl 
 now in Windsor Castle. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY, Somerset House: the Library occupies five rooms 
 extremely rich in the best editions of scientific treatises, besides rar f 
 and valuable theological historical works, lent to Fellows of the Societj 
 The catalogue of books, Mss., and letters, 1841, fills 2 volumes 8voi 
 (" The collection is very poor in some departments." A. De Morgan. 
 The Society also possess upwards of 5000 maps, charts, engravings, 
 drawings, &c. The library of Arundel House, presented to the Roya 
 Society by Mr. Henry Howard, 1G66-7, forms the nucleus of the pre 
 sent collection, each book being inscribed Ex dono Henrici Howard, Nor 
 folciensis: " it consists of 3287 printed books, chiefly first editions, sooi 
 after the invention of printing ; and Hebrew, Greek,*Latin, Turkish, am 
 other rare Mss., 544 volumes." (Maitland.) In 1830, the Arundel Mss 
 (excepting the Hebrew and Oriental) were sold to the British Museur 
 for 3559/., which was expended in purchasing scientific works for th j 
 Royal Society's Library, now exceeding 42,000 volumes. 
 
LIBRARIES. 465 
 
 Here are Chaucer's Canterburie Tales, fol. 1480 (Caxton) ; 'Copernicus's 
 History of Astronomy, first edition; original Ms. of the Principia, written by Sir 
 Isaac Newton; and documents in the Commercium Epistolicum (invention of 
 Fluxions); Ms. of Aubrey's Natural History of Wiltshire. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITEBATUBE, 4 St. Martin 's-place, Trafalgar- 
 square : a valuable library, greatly enriched by the lexicographical and 
 antiquarian works presented by the Rev. H. J. Todd, editor and en- 
 larger of Johnson's Dictionary; also papers by the most eminent 
 writers on history, philology, poetry, philosophy, and the arts. The 
 Society's House was built by the leading members upon Crown-land 
 granted in 1826 by George IV., who contributed 1100 guineas a-year. 
 It is true that George IV. was committed to this large annual subscription by 
 misconception of Dr. Burgess, Bishop of Salisbury ; the king intending a dona- 
 on of 1000 guineas, and an annual subscription of 100 guineas: but his majesty 
 ot only cheerfully acquiesced, but amused himself with the incident. 
 
 RUSSELL INSTITUTION, Great Coram-street: about 15,000 volumes ; 
 llowed to be taken out by proprietors or subscribers. Here is Hay- 
 on's grand heroic picture of " Xenophon and the Ten Thousand":" 
 was disposed of by lottery for 800 guineas, in 1836, when it was won 
 y John, Duke of Bedford, and presented by him to the Institution. 
 
 SIGN COLLEGE Library, London Wall (see page 214), though 
 ounded for the clergy of the City and suburbs cf London, is now 
 ccessible daily upon the same conditions as the British Museum Library. 
 The Sion collection was increased by the bequest of the library of Dr. 
 William Harris : here are many curious black-letter theological works, 
 nd scarce tracts of the Puritan times. 
 
 SIB JOHN SOANE'S MUSEUM : Architecture and the Fine Arts ge- 
 erally, by English, Italian, French, German, and Russian artists and 
 terati; original Drawings and Mss. by Thorpe, Jones, Yanbrugh, 
 V^ren, and Chambers ; Pennant's London, illustrated with 2000 draw- 
 , prints, &c. (Fauntleroy's) ; Tasso's MS. Gerusalemme Liberata ; 
 irst, second, third, and fourth folio editions of Shakspeare, from J. P. 
 kemble's library. 
 
 I SOCIETIES, LITEBABY AND SCIENTIFIC, in Islington, Marylebone 
 louthwark, and Westminster, contain modern libraries. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ABTS, John-street, Adelphi, has a collection of technical 
 j'orks, which is very far from complete, but was intended to contain copies 
 rail special treatises on the arts and manufactures. The most inte- 
 festing and important part of the library is the MS. correspondence and 
 loirnal- books. Amongst the rejected communications and condemned 
 ventions are many since the subjects of patents; and these volumes 
 re the most remarkable registers in the country of the inventions of 
 Jie last century. The books are lent to the members. 
 
 STATISTICAL SOCIETY, 12 St. James's-square : a large collection of 
 .atistical Returns, imperfectly catalogued. 
 
 UNITED SEBVICE INSTITUTION, Middle Scotland-yard, White- 
 all: an admirable library of reference (10,000 volumes)," especially va- 
 lable in its practical utility to soldiers ; pamphlets on the services ; 
 igineering papers; rich in old Italian military literature; a French 
 Jan of fortification in MS., corrected in the handwriting of Vauban. 
 .{ UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Gower-street : about 43,000 volumes, and 
 |00 pamphlets, general, legal, and medical ; including the Chinese li- 
 'Nary, 10,000 volumes, left by Dr. Morrison ; the Ricardo library (poli- 
 tal economy) left by David Ricardo ; and a large collection bequeathed 
 I Dr. Holmes of Manchester The marble statue of Locke, in the 
 iincipal library, is by Sir Richard Westmacott, R.A. (See page 215. 
 
466 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 WESTMINSTEK ABBEY Library (Chapter House) was once the 
 monks' " parlour," or " parleying" place, but made a " public library" 
 by Lord Keeper Williams, whilst Dean of Westminster. The books 
 were burnt in 1664, and but one MS. saved out of 320 : they are cata- 
 logued in the Harleian MSS. Chamberlayne (1726) describes " a fair 
 publick library, free for all strangers in term time : " about 11,000 
 volumes. In each boarding-house of Westminster School is also a li- 
 brary; and there is a small school collection of old editions of the classics. 
 
 WILLIAMS'S LIBRARY, Redcross-street, Cripplegate : 20,000 vo- 
 lumes, collected by the Rev. Dr. Daniel Williams, the nonconformist, 
 and Dr. Bates ; and bequeathed by the former, with provisions for 
 a building ; opened 1729. This library has been increased by gifts, and 
 by a small income from estates left by Dr. Williams : it is rich in con- 
 troversial divinity, is open to the public by a Trustee's order, and books 
 are allowed to be taken out. Here are some manuscripts of the early 
 history of the Reformation. Dr. Williams purchased most of the books 
 of the heirs of one Baker, of Highgate: by negligence many of the Mss. 
 were burnt, including the pompous and curious Book of the Cere- 
 monies of the Coronation of the Kings of England. H. Lemoine, 1790. 
 
 Also, The Salisbury Liturgy, finely illuminated; The Hours of the Virgin, 
 Paris, 1498; Illuminated Bible; miniature copy of the Head of Christ, from a 
 painting in the Vatican ; the glass baptismal basin of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 Here is a very interesting collection of portraits of Dissenting Ministers. : 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY, 11 Hanover-square : Transactions of Learned \ 
 Societies, and scientific zoological works of modern date. 
 
 CIRCULATING LIBRARIES date from 1740, when one Wright, at } 
 No. 132 Strand, established the first. Dr. Franklin writes in 1725, ' 
 lodging in Little Britain : " Circulating libraries were not then in use." 
 Among Wright's earliest rivals were the Nobles, in Holborn and St. 
 Martin's-court ; Samuel Bathoe, Strand ; and Thomas Lowndes, Fleet-: 
 street. Another early Circulating Library was in Crane-court, Fleet- 
 street, where the Society of Arts met in 1754 and 1755. In 1770 there 
 were but four Circulating Libraries in the metropolis. 
 
 FREE LIBRARIES : the first established in Marylebone, 1853. 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, 
 
 The fine square west of Lincoln's Inn, date from 1618, when "thei 
 grounds were much planted round with dwellings and lodgings of 
 noblemen and gentlemen of quality, but at the same time were deformed 
 by cottages and mean buildings, encroachments on the fields, and . 
 nuisances to the neighbourhood." To reform these grievances, a com- 
 mission was appointed by the Crown " to plant and reduce to unifor- 
 mity Lincoln's- Inn-Fields, as it shall be drawn by way of map or ground- 
 plot by Inigo Jones." A view, painted in oil, of Inigo's plan is pre- 
 served at Wilton House : it is taken from the south, and the principal 
 feature is Lindsey House, on the centre of the west side (see page 
 393). It still remains, but has lost the handsome vases which origi- 
 nally surmounted the open balustrade at the top. (Life of Inigo Jones, 
 by P. Cunningham. Shakspeare Society, 1848.) 
 
 The proportions of the square were long stated to be those of the 
 Great Pyramid of Egypt ; which, says Walpole, " would have been 
 admired in those ages when the keep of Kenilworth Castle was erected 
 in the form of a horse-fetter, and the Escurial in the shape of St. Law- 
 rence's gridiron." But the fact is otherwise: the base of the Great 
 Pyramid measures 764 feet on each side, whereas Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 although 821 feet on one side, is only 625 feet 6 inches on the other 
 
LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. 467 
 
 and the area of the Pyramid is greater by many thousand square feet. 
 (Colonel Howard Vyse, On the Pyramids.) The west side only was 
 completed by Inigo Jones. 
 
 Lincoln's-Inn-Fields have been used as a place of execution. Here, 
 Sept. 20 and 21, 1580, Babington and his accomplices were " hanged, 
 bowelled, and quartered, on a stage or scaffold of timber strongly 
 made for that purpose, even in the place where they used to meet and 
 to conferre of their traitorous purposes." And here in the middle of 
 the square, July 21, 1633, was beheaded the patriotic Lord William 
 Kussell. (See CHANCERY-LANE, p. 70.) 
 
 Burnet thus describes the sad scene: " Tillotson and I went with him in the 
 coach to the place of execution. Some of the crowd that filled the streets wept, 
 while others insulted. He was singing psalms a great part of the way, and said 
 he hoped to sing better soon. As he observed the great crowd of people all the 
 way, he said to us, ' I hope I shall quickly see a much better assembly.' When 
 he came to the scaffold, he walked about it four or five times. Then he turned to 
 the sheriffs and delivered his paper. . . He prayed by himself, then Tillotson prayed 
 with him. After that he prayed again by himself, and then undressed himself, 
 and laid his head on the block without the least change of countenance, and it was 
 cut off at two strokes." 
 
 The Fields continued to be the resort of idle and vicious vagrants : 
 such were " Lincoln's-Inn-Fields Mumpers ;" and " Scarecrow, the beg- 
 
 I favourite game here was " the Wheel of Fortune," played with a mov- 
 j able hand pointing to a circle of figures, such as we remember in Moor- 
 fields, the prizes being gingerbread-nuts the size of farthings. Gay, in 
 his Trivia, cautions the pedestrian : 
 
 " Where Lincoln Inn's wide space is rail'd around, 
 Cross not with vent'rous step; there oft is found 
 
 The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone, 
 Made the walls echo with his begging tone : 
 That wretch, which late compassion moved, shall wound 
 Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground." 
 
 Lincoln's-Inn-Fields Rufflers were wretches who assumed the characters of 
 maimed soldiers, and begged from the claims of Naseby, Edgehill, Newbury, and 
 i Marston Moor; their prey was people of fashion, whose coaches they attacked, and 
 i if refused relief, they told their owners, '"Tis a sad thing that an old crippled 
 i cavalier should be suffered to beg for a maintenance, and a young cavalier, that 
 never heard the whistle of a bullet, should ride in his coach." 
 
 The Fields were not, however, inclosed with iron railing until after 
 1735, in consequence of Sir Joseph Jekyll, then Master of the Rolls, 
 jbeing ridden over ; " before which time it was a receptacle for rude 
 jfellows to air horses, and many robberies were committed in it." (Gen- 
 Itleman's Magazine, Aug. 1773.) But Ireland states that Jekyll was 
 ttacked and thrown down by the mob, in consequence of his aid in 
 k " passing of the Act of Parliament to raise the price of gin. 
 
 In "the Fields" was often set up, until its final abolition, the 
 'illory, handy for the rabble of Clare Market. 
 
 On the north side is SIR JOHN SOANE'S MUSEUM (see MUSEUMS); 
 outh, the COLLEGE OP SURGEONS (see page 208) ; east, LINCOLN'S INN 
 VEW HALL (see page 408) ; west, through Inigo Jones's archway, in 
 Duke-street, is the SARDINIAN ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL (see page 
 (82) ; opposite which, over an Italian warehouse, lodged Dr. Franklin, 
 vhen a compositor at Watts's printing-office. 
 
 Great and Little Turnstile are named from the turning stiles which, 
 wo centuries since, stood at their ends next Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 o prevent the straying of cattle therefrom. Sir Edward Sandys's 
 urious Europce Speculum, 4to, 1637, was "sold by George Button, at 
 
468 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Turning Stile in Holborne." The English translation of Bishop 
 Peter Camus's Admirable Events, 4to, 1639, was also " sold in Holborne, 
 in Turnstile Lane." In 1685 was built New Turnstile. 
 
 Turnstile- alley, leading to Holborn, was first designed as a change 
 for selling Welsh friezes, flannels, &c. Here Cartwright, the book- 
 seller, kept shop : he was an excellent player, and bequeathed his plays 
 and pictures to Dulwich College. 
 
 The concentration of the Law Courts in Lincoln's Inn Fields has been pro- 
 posed; and in 1841 Mr. Barry designed a large building, of Grecian character, 
 containing a Great Hall (nearly equal to the area of Westminster Hall), sur- 
 
 rounded by 12 courts; the whole occupying one-third of the area within the 
 ~ ids were wanting, and the blocking up 
 of the open space was objected to : persons had considered this area as then- 
 
 rails, to be belted with plantations. Funds were wanting, and the blocking u{ 
 
 'country walk," and that " they had been in the country when they had been 
 round Lincoln's Iim Fields." (Evidence before Parliament.) 
 
 LITERARY FUND (ROYAL), 
 
 73 Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury, administers assistance to authors 
 in distressed circumstances, " or deprived, by enfeebled faculties or de- 
 clining life, of the power of literary exertion ;" such assistance being 
 extended, at the death of an author, to his widow and children. A by- 
 law enacts that the applicant, to be entitled to assistance, must have 
 published a book. 
 
 " With equal promptitude and delicacy, its committee are ever ready to ad- 
 minister to the necessities of the unfortunate scholar, who can satisfy them that 
 his misery is not the just punishment of immoral habits. Some of the brightest 
 names in contemporary literature have been beholden to the bounty of this Insti- 
 tution, and in numerous instances its interference has shielded friendless merit 
 from utter ruin." Quarterly Review. 
 
 The Society was established by subscription, in 1790, by Mr. David 
 Williams, who has detailed its objects in a work entitled The Claims 
 of Literature. It was first proposed by Williams in 1773, to a club 
 which met at the Prince of Wales's Tavern, Conduit-street, Hanover- 
 square ; Dr. Franklin presided, but discouraged Williams by observing, 
 " the event will require so much time, perseverance, and patience, 
 that the anvil may wear out the hammer." The first anniversary 
 dinner was held in 1793 : in 1794 an ode was recited ; and this prac- 
 tice was continued until 1830. Among the writers of these poems 
 were Captain Morris, Mr. Fitzgerald, Mr. Disraeli, Mr. George Dyer, 
 Mr. Boscawen, the Rev. Henry Kett, the Rev. Dr. Charles Symmons, 
 the Rev. George Crabbe, the Rev. Thomas Maurice, Mr. Henry Neele, 
 and Mr. Allan Cunningham. The first patron of the Fund, the Prince 
 Regent, contributed 51551. ; and the Dukes of Kent, Sussex, York, and 
 Cambridge presided at its dinners ; and, in 1842, Prince Albert. In the 
 Society's armorial bearings are the imperial crown and the Prince of 
 Wales's plume. The first house of the Fund was 36 Gerrard-street, 
 Soho, where Williams died in 1816 : he was buried in St. Ann's church, 
 and his gravestone bears, "DAVID WILLIAMS, ESQ., AGED 78 TEARS, 
 FOUNDER OF THE LITERARY FUND." Yet Canning, in political spite, 
 once classed Williams amongst " creeping creatures, venomous and 
 low !" The Fund was incorporated 1818 : the average number of au- 
 thors relieved annually is 40, among whom poets and tale-writers pre- 
 dominate ; annual grants about 1400Z. The Reserve Fund was in 1853 
 nearly 40,000/. (See LIBRARIES, page 462.) 
 
 LITTLE BRITAIN", 
 
 Anciently Breton or Britain-street, west of Aldersgate-street, is named 
 from the" Earls of Britons, who had here a magnificent town-mansion, 
 to which adjoined Montagu House and other noble residences. 
 
LOMBARD STREET. 469 
 
 Little Britain was as remarkable for its booksellers through the reigns 
 of Charles I. and II., James II., and William and Mary, as Paternoster- 
 row is at present. This location of booksellers may have been influ- 
 enced by John Day, the eminent printer, living over Aldersgate ; and 
 from Grub-street being the abode of authors. (See GRUB-STREET, pp. 
 335-7.) " Bartholomew-close printers" are also mentioned by Dryden. 
 
 Roger North, in his Life of the Hon. and Rev. Dr. John North, speaking of the 
 booksellers in the reign of Charles II., says: "Little Britain was a plentiful and 
 perpetual emporium of learned authors, and men went thither as to a market. 
 This drew to the place a mighty trade, the rather because the shops were spa- 
 cious, and the learned gladly resorted to them, where they seldom failed to meet 
 with agreeable conversation; and the booksellers themselves were knowing and 
 conversible men, with whom, for the sake of bookish knowledge, the greatest 
 wits were pleased to converse ; and we may judge the time as well spent there a^ 
 (in latter days) either in tavern or coffee-house. But now this emporium has' 
 vanished, and the trade contracted into the hands of two or three persons." 
 
 Robert Scott appears to have been a principal dealer in Little 
 Britain. A newspaper of 1644 states 460 pamphlets to have been pub- 
 lished here in four years. Richard Chiswell, of Little Britain, buried in 
 St. Botolph's Church, Aldersgate, in 1711, is described as " the metro- 
 politan bookseller of England." At the Dolphin, in Little Britain, lived 
 Samuel Buckley, publisher of the Spectator, commenced March 1, 1711. 
 In 1725, Benjamin Franklin, when working at Palmer's printing-office 
 in Bartholomew-close, lodged in Little Britain, next door to Wilcox the 
 bookseller, who lent Franklin books " for a reasonable retribution." 
 
 Milton, after he had left Jewin-street, lodged for a time in Little Britain with 
 Millington, the book-auctioneer, who was accustomed to lead his venerable inmate 
 by the hand when he walked in the street, as mentioned by Richardson, on the 
 testimony of an acquaintance of Milton. (Symmons's Life of Milton, 2d edition, 
 p. 501.) Richardson also relates, that in Little Britain the Earl of Dorset, when 
 beating about for books to his taste, "met with Paradise Lost, and was so struck 
 with some of its passages that he bought it, the bookseller begging him to speak 
 in its favour if he liked it, for that they (the copies in his shop, not the impres- 
 sion, as Malone states) lay on his hands as waste paper. The Earl read the poem, 
 and sent it to Dryden, who returned it with the memorable opinion: 'This man 
 cuts us all out, and the ancients too.' " 
 
 " The race of booksellers in Little Britain is now almost extinct ; 
 honest Ballard, well known for his curious divinity catalogues, being 
 their only genuine representative" (Gentleman's Magazine, No. 1,1731). 
 He died Jan. 2, 1796, aged 88, in the house wherein he was born. 
 
 Duke-street, formerly Duck-lane, leading into Smithfield, was once 
 celebrated for refuse book-shops : 
 
 "And so may'st thou, perchance, pass up and down, 
 And please awhile th' admiring court and town. 
 Who after all shall in Duck-lane shops be thrown." 
 
 Oldham's Satires, circ. 1680. 
 
 Washington Irving describes the locality as " a cluster of narrow 
 streets and courts of very venerable and debilitated houses, several ready 
 to tumble down, the fronts of which are magnificently enriched with 
 old oaken carvings of hideous faces, unknown birds, beasts, and fishes, 
 and fruits and flowers, which it would perplex a naturalist to classify" 
 (Sketch-book). Most of this grotesque ornamentation has, however, 
 long disappeared. 
 
 LOMBARD-STREET, 
 '* A certain street of the greatest credit in Europe," (Addison,) 
 
 I is proved by Stow to have borne that name before the reign of Ed- 
 ward II., and is so called of the Longobards, the first of whom were 
 , the Caursini family, a rich race of bankers who settled here, and their 
 i countrymen soon grouped around them. They were also the gold- 
 
470 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 smiths, who took pledges in plate, jewels, &c. ; and the badge of the 
 Lombards (the three golden pills of the Medici family) has descended 
 as the sign of the pawnbrokers.* The black-letter ballad in the Pepys 
 collection makes the husband of Jane Shore a goldsmith here : 
 " In Lombard-street I once did dwelle, 
 As London yet can witnesse welle; 
 Where many gallants did beholde 
 My beauty in a shop of golde. 
 * 
 
 I penance did in Lombard-streete 
 In shameful manner in a sheete." 
 
 Here the merchants assembled twice daily in all weathers. In 
 1537, Sir Richard Gresham proposed to Cromwell (then Lord Privy 
 Seal) " to make a goodely Bursse in Lombert-strette, for marchaunts 
 to repayer unto." Hence originated the Exchange built by Sir Rich- 
 ard's son, Sir Thomas Gresham, who was then living in Lombard-street, 
 described by Hentzner as the handsomest street in London. 
 
 Here, like other bankers, Gresham kept a shop on the site of the 
 banking-house (No. 68) of Martin, Stone, and Martins, who in Pen- 
 nant's time possessed the large gilt grasshopper (Gresham's crest) 
 which was placed over his door as a sign. It existed entire until 1795, 
 when the present house was built, and the sign disappeared piecemeaL 
 
 Hentzner, in 1593, saw in Lombard- street " all sorts of gold and silver vessels 
 exposed to sale, as well as ancient and modern coins, in such quantities as must 
 surprise a man the first time he sees and considers them." At Gresham's death, 
 much of his wealth consisted of gold chains. Lombard-street has retained its 
 character as well as its name for at least five centuries and a half; and within the < 
 last thirty years several gold and silver lacemen lived there. Burgon's Life and ! 
 Times of Sir Thomas Gresham, vol. i. p. 281 : 1839. 
 
 The Pope's merchants also chaffered here for their wafer-cakes ; 
 and pardons. Sir Simon Eye built here a large tavern, " the Cardinal's ! 
 Hat ;" and Pope's Head Alley, leading from Lombard-street to Corn- i 
 hill, is named from "the Pope's Head Tavern," which existed in 1464: i 
 it had a finely painted room in Pepys's time. The Alley was once famous i 
 for its printsellers, for toys, turnery, and cutlery; and stalls of fine fruit, j 
 
 The poet Pope was born in Lombard-street, May 22, 1688, " at the : 
 house which is now Mr. Morgan's, an apothecary" (Spence's Anec- 
 dotes) ; a name long since forgotten, although J. T. Smith took much 
 pains to discover it. Pope's father was a linen-draper, and a Roman ' 
 Catholic, and the poet was partly educated by the family priest. Pope 
 apostrophises John Moore, "author of the celebrated worm-powder," 
 " O learned friend of Abchurch-lane." 
 
 Lombard-street had also its booksellers. The imprint to Howel's 
 Familiar Letters, 5th edition, is : " London, printed for Thomas Guy, 
 at the Corner-shop of little Lombard-street and Cornhill, near Wool- 
 church Market, 1678." And 1696, Sept. 17, Lloyd's News was first 
 "printed for Edward Lloyd (Coffee-man) in Lombard-street." To- 
 wards Birchin (anciently Birchover's)-lane stood the house of William de 
 la Pole, created in France, by Edward III., Knight Banneret; he was 
 King's Merchant, and from him sprang a numerous race of nobility. 
 
 Sir Martin Bowes, the wealthy goldsmith, lived upon the site of 
 No. 67, now Glyn's banking-house. 
 
 In George- yard was the George hostelry, the London lodging of 
 
 Earl Ferrers, whose brother, in 1175, was slain here in the night, and 
 
 thrown into the dirty street, which led to the setting of night-watches. 
 
 Lombard-street highway passes over the site of Roman houses, and has been 
 
 * By others the sign is traced to the three pieces of gold, which are the emblem 
 of the charitable St. Nicholas. (See Mrs. Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art.) 
 
LONDON STONE. 471 
 
 the field of three great finds of Roman remains, in 1730, 1774, and 1785-6; the 
 latter, in its stratum of wood ashes, supposed to indicate the burning of London 
 by Boadicea. Ten feet below the street-level was found a wall of the smaller-sized 
 Roman bricks, pierced by flues or chimneys; likewise tile and brick pavements; 
 in Birchin-lane, a tesselated pavement of elegant design, heaps of Roman coins, 
 glass bottles, keys, and beads; vessels and fragments of earthenware ; and a large 
 vessel of red Samian ware, richly embellished, and reminding us that "Rome 
 did not want its Wedgwood." The causeway, which Wren considered the north- 
 ern boundary of the Roman station, was then also discovered in Birchin-lane. 
 
 In Lombard-street are sixteen banking-houses, and fire and life in- 
 surance-offices ; mostly handsome buildings. The Pelican Life Office 
 was built by Sir Robert Taylor ; and the emblematic group, designed 
 by Lady Diana Beauclerk, was executed by Coade, at Lambeth. 
 
 The General Post-Office was removed to Lombard-street early in 
 the last century (see p. 394), and thence to St. Martin's-le-Grand in 1829. 
 
 Here are the churches of Allhallows (see page 116) j St. Edmund 
 (p. 126) ; and St. Mary Woolnoth (p. 148). 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION, 
 
 Finsbury Circus, was established by a proprietary, 1805, "for the advance- 
 ment of literature and the diffusion of useful knowledge :" upon its first 
 committee were Mr. Angerstein and Mr. Richard Sharp (" Conversation 
 Sharp"). The Institution was temporarily located at 8 Old Jewry (the 
 fine brick mansion of Sir Robert Clayton, temp. Charles II.), and opened 
 with a library of 10,000 volumes; incorporated in 1807 : the sun in splen- 
 dour, a terrestrial globe, open book, and air-pump, among the armorial 
 ensigns of the common seal, characterising the objects of the Institution. 
 I In 1812 it was removed to King's Arms'-yard, Coleman- street ; and 
 | thence, in 1819, to the present mansion, built on the north side of Moor- 
 I fields (Brooks, architect); the first stone laid November 4, 1815, by the 
 Lord Mayor, Birch : the facade is of Portland stone, and has a Corinthian 
 portico, modified from the Temple of Vesta at Tivoli ; cost of the building, 
 31,124Z. The Library is 97 by 42 feet, and 28 in height, and has a gallery 
 throughout : the collection of books is " one of the most useful and ac- 
 cessible in Britain " (see LIBRARIES, page 462). In the rear of the man- 
 sion is the Lecture-room, or Theatre, for 700 auditors ; and adjoining 
 are the Apparatus-room and Laboratory ; the latter designed by W. 
 H. Pepys, F.R.S., and engraved in Parkes's Chemical Catechism, 13th 
 edition, 1834. The apparatus in pneumatics, hydrostatics, electricity, 
 and magnetism, is very perfect ; but the great battery of 2000 double 
 ] plates, and another with a pair of plates 200 feet square, with which Sir 
 i Humphry Davy experimented, have long been destroyed. 
 
 LONDON STONE, 
 Cannon-street, is a fragment of the Lapis Milliarls (mile-stone) of the 
 Romans, " a pillar set up by them in the centre of the forum of Agricola's 
 station, the gnoma or umbilicus castri Londinensis." (A. J. Kempe, 
 F.S.A.) Stow describes it on the south side of the street, near the 
 channel of Walbrook, " pitched upright, a great stone, called London 
 Stone, fixed in the ground very deep, fastened with bars of iron, and 
 so strongly set, that if carts do run against it through negligence, 
 the wheels be broken, and the stone itself be unshaken." There is evi- 
 dence to the belief that it was placed here a thousand years ago ; and 
 Camden considers it to have been the great central mile-stone, from 
 which the British high-roads radiated, and the distances on them were 
 reckoned, similar to that in the Forum at Rome.* 
 
 * A like stone, of the time of Hadrian (2d century), was found on the side of 
 the Roman Foss-way, near Leicester, in 1771 ; and is preserved in the Museum 
 of the Leicester Literary and Philosophical Society. 
 
472 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 London Stone is referred to as a local mark of immemorial antiquity 
 in Saxon charters. Stow found it mentioned as a landmark in a list of 
 rents belonging to Christ's Church, in Canterbury, at the end of " a fair- 
 written gospel-book," given to that foundation by the West-Saxon King 
 Athelstane, who reigned from 925 to 941. Of later time we read, 
 that in the year 1135, the 1st of King Stephen, a fire, which began in 
 the house of one Ailward, near unto London Stone, consumed all east 
 to Aldgate. Henry Fitz-Alwyn, "the draper of London Stone," was 
 the first Mayor of London, 1189. Lydgate, about 1430, sings : 
 
 " Then I went forth by London Stone 
 Throughout all Canwick Street." London Lackpenny. 
 
 Holinshed mentions the Stone in describing the insurrection of Jack 
 Cade, who, when he had forced his way into the capital, struck his 
 sword upon London Stone, exclaiming, "*Now is Mortimer lord of this 
 city." Shakspeare has introduced this dramatic incident in the Second 
 Part of Henry IV. act iv. sc. 1. In " Pasquill and Marforius," 1589, 
 we read: " Set up this bill at London Stone. Let it be doone solemnly, 
 with drom and trumpet ; and looke you advance my cullour on the top 
 of the steeple right over against it." Also, "if it please them these 
 dark winter nights, to sticke uppe their papers uppon London Stone." 
 Here it is presumed to have been customary to affix official papers. 
 
 Luther's Table-Talh, English translation, was first "printed by 
 "William Du Gard, dwelling in Suffolk-lane, near London-stone, 1652." 
 
 Watling-street, of which Cannon-street is a continuation, is sup- 
 posed to have been the principal street of Roman London ; but it may 
 have been a British road before the arrival of the Romans, to which 
 earlier period Strype refers London Stone. After the Great Fire of 
 1666, the ground in Cannon-street was much disturbed, and the "large 
 foundations" of London Stone led Wren to consider it to have been 
 some more considerable monument than even the Roman milliarium ; 
 for adjoining " were discovered some tesselated pavements, and other 
 extensive remains of Roman workmanship and buildings. Probably, 
 this might, in some degree, have imitated the Miliarium Aureum at Con- 
 stantinople, which was not in the form of a pillar at Rome, but an 
 eminent building," containing many statues. The Stone, before the 
 Great Fire, was "much worn away, and as it were but a stump remain- 
 ing." (Strype.) It was then cased over by Wren with a new stone, 
 handsomely wrought and cut hollow, something like a Roman altar 
 or pedestal, admitting the ancient fragment, " now not much larger I 
 than a bomb-shell," to be seen through a large aperture near the top. 
 The Stone, in its old position on the south side of the street, being com- ; 
 plained of as a nuisance, was removed to the north side in 1742, close to i 
 the kerb : here again it proved an obstruction ; and in 1798, when 
 the church was about to be repaired, the venerable Stone was by some 
 of the parishioners doomed to destruction ; but Mr. Thomas Maiden, 
 of Sherborne-lane, printer, prevailed on the parish- officers to have it 
 placed against the south wall of the church, where it now remains. 
 
 LONDON WALL, 
 
 Moorfields, is a street named from its north side occupying the site of 
 that portion of the City Wall which divided the City Liberty from the 
 manor of Finsbury, and against which was built Bethlem Hospital, 
 taken down 1817-8 ; when also the Wall was removed : " found un- 
 commonly thick, and the bricks double the size of those now used ; the 
 centre filled in with large loose stones, &c." (Hughson's Walks, 1817.) 
 The level of the street has been in part raised two feet within the last 
 
LONG ACRE. 473 
 
 30 years. Over Helmet Court entrance is a helmet, boldly sculptured 
 in stone. Here is Sion College, described at page 214. 
 
 The Wall, believed to be the work of the later Roman period, when 
 London was often exposed to hostile attacks, extended from the Tower, 
 through the Minories to Aldgate, Houndsditch, Bishopsgate, along 
 London Wall to Fore-street, through Cripplegate and Castle-street to 
 Aldersgate, and so through Christ's Hospital by Newgate and Ludgate 
 towards the Thames. (See Cixr WALL AND GATES, pp. 184-5.) 
 
 LONG ACRE, 
 
 The main street between Covent Garden and St. Giles's, and extending 
 from Drury-lane west to St. Martin's-lane, was (temp. Henry VIII.) an 
 open tield, called the Elms, from a line of those trees growing upon it, 
 as shewn in Aggas's plan. It was next called Seven Acres; and temp. 
 Charles I., when it was first laid out, it was changed to Long Acre, 
 from the length of the slip of ground first made a pathway. In Phoenix- 
 alley, now Hanover-court, on the south, John Taylor, the water-poet, 
 and a contemporary of Shakspeare, kept an ale-house, first with the sign 
 of " The Mourning Crown," for which, at the Commonwealth, he sub- 
 stituted his own head, with this motto : 
 
 " There's many a head stands for a sign ; 
 Then, gentle reader, why not mine/" 
 
 Taylor, as a Thames waterman, stoutly assailed coaches, among the 
 builders of which he died, in Phoenix-alley, in 1653. 
 
 It is related of Prior, the poet, that after spending the evening with 
 Oxford, Bolingbroke, Pope, and Swift, he would go and smoke a pipe, 
 and drink a bottle of ale with a common soldier and his wife in Long 
 Acre, before he went to bed. This woman (also said to have been a 
 cobbler's and an alehouse-keeper's wife) was the beautiful Chloe of 
 Prior's poems : " he used to bury himself for whole days and nights 
 kogether with this poor mean creature" (Pope). 
 
 ! Defoe (Journey through England, 1722) describes "the Mug-house Club, in 
 JLong Acre, where, every Wednesday and Saturday, a mixture of gentlemen, law- 
 lyers, and tradesmen, meet in a great room, and are seldom under a hundred. They 
 pave a grave old gentleman, in his own grey hairs, now within a few months of 
 (ninety years old, who is their president, and sits in an arm'd chair some steps 
 higher than the rest of the company, to keep the whole room in order. A harp 
 plays all the time at the lower end of the room, and every now and then one or 
 ither of the company rises and entertains the rest with a song, and (by the by) 
 some are good masters. Here is nothing drunk but ale, and every gentleman 
 lath his separate mug, which he chalks on the table where he sits as it is brought 
 n ; and every one retires as he pleases, as from a coffee-house. The room is 
 plways so diverted with songs, and drinking from one table to another to one 
 another's healths, that there is no room for politicks, or any thing that can sour 
 conversation. One must be there by seven to get room, and after ten the com- 
 pany are for the most part gone." 
 
 Long Acre was at first inhabited by persons of note, and some of 
 the houses are handsomely built ; but coachmakers, and the subordinate 
 trades of coach-trimmers, colourmen, and varnish-makers, have probably 
 ived in Long Acre since the general introduction of coaches, circ. 1630. 
 John Locke (in his Diary, 1679) recommends " Mr. Cox, of Long 
 A.cre, for all sorts of dioptical glasses." A few old signs, includ- 
 ng the goldbeater's gilded arm and hammer, remain upon the house- 
 Tonts; but the coachmakers have of late years followed fashion west- 
 ward. The chapel on the north side of Long Acre was the private pro- 
 perty of the Rev. John Warner, D.D., an eloquent preacher (d. 1800). 
 in conjunction with Dr. Lettsom and Mr. Nichols, Dr. Warner origi- 
 lated the erection of the statue of John Howard in St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 llmong the nostrums of Long Acre were Dr. Gardner's Worm-destroy- 
 
474 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ing Medicines, &c. ; and BurchelFs Anodyne Necklaces, strongly recom- 
 mended for teeth-cutting, by Dr. Turner, the inventor; and Dr. Cham- 
 berlain, who possessed the secret. 
 
 In Rose-street, the notorious Edward Curll, the bookseller, kept 
 shop, with Pope's Head for his sign. In this street Dryden was cud- 
 gelled on his way home from Will's Coffee-house to Long Acre. 
 
 Endell-street, on the south, leads to Holborn (see p. 374). St. Martin's 
 Hall was built in 1849, beween Charles and Wilson streets (see p. 370); 
 and in Castle-street, in 1850, the St. Martin's Northern Schools (Wyld, 
 architect). The style is Byzantine, with two tiers of pointed arches ; 
 the top story being a covered playground, 100 feet long, opening to 
 the front by a colonnade, a novel contrivance for keeping the children 
 from the evil ways of the street. 
 
 LORD MAYOR'S STATE. 
 
 The salary and allowances paid to the Lord Mayor from the 
 City funds during his year of office, with sums from other sources, 
 amount to about 7900?. He resides in the Mansion House, which is 
 sumptuously furnished, and provided with plate and jewelled orna- 
 ments said to be worth from 20,000?. to 30,000?.: his household con- 
 sists of 20 gentlemen, including the Sword-bearer, the Common Hunt, 
 the Common Crier, and the Water-bailiff, all of whom have the title 
 of esquires. He has a splendid retinue of servants, and keeps three 
 tables ; he is provided with a gorgeous state-coach, but not with horses ; 
 and he finds the dress-carriage and horses for the Lady Mayoress. (See 
 STATE COACHES.) He is expected to give a certain number of state 
 banquets during the year, in addition to bearing half of the expense 
 of the inauguration -dinner at Guildhall on the 9th of November. The 
 Lord Mayor's dinners are provided by contract, but the wines are sup- 
 plied from the Mansion-House cellars. The mayoralty expenses, un- 
 less " cool was his kitchen," generally exceed by 4000?. the City allow- 
 ance. The state liveries usually cost 500?. 
 
 The Fool was formerly one of the Lord Mayor's household ; and he j 
 was bound by his office to leap, clothes and all, into a large bowl of ' 
 custard, at the Lord Mayor's inauguration dinner : 
 
 " He may, perchance, in tail of a Sheriff's dinner, 
 
 Skip with a rime o' the table, from new nothing, 
 
 And take his almain leap into a custard, 
 
 Shall make my Lady Mayoress and her sisters 
 
 Laugh all their hods over their shoulders." Ben Jonson. 
 
 Custard was " a food much used in City feasts." (Johnson's Diet) 
 
 " Now may'rs and shrieves all hush'd and satiate lay; 
 
 Yet eat, in dreams, the custard of the day." Pope. 
 
 Costume and Jewels. On ordinary state occasions the Lord Mayor \ 
 wears a massive black silk robe richly embroidered, and his collar and - 
 jewel. In the courts and civic me'etings he has a violet silk robe, \ 
 furred, and barred with black velvet ; and on the bench at the Mansion 
 House, and in the Central Criminal Court, he wears a scarlet robe, 
 furred, and bordered with black velvet. In conducting the Sovereign 
 through the City, the Lord Mayor wears a rich crimson velvet robe. 
 Beneath the robe is worn a rich court suit, with point-lace ; and the 
 velvet hood of old has been superseded by a three-cornered dress hat, 
 trimmed with black ostrich-feathers. 
 
 The wear of robes of various colours upon certain days was fixed by a regula- 
 tion in 1562, and, with the customs and orders for meeting, was printed in a tract 
 by John Day, now very scarce. But the present authority for the customs is a 
 pamphlet printed by direction of the Common Council in 1789. 
 The Collar is of pure gold, composed of a series of links, each formed 
 
LORD MAYOR'S STATE. 475 
 
 of a letter S ; a united York and Lancaster, or Henry VII. rose ; and a 
 massive knolt. The ends of the chain are joined by the portcullis, from 
 the points of which, suspended by a ring of diamonds, hangs the Jewel. 
 The entire Collar contains 28 SS, 14 roses, and 13 knolts, and measures 
 64 inches. The Jewel contains in the centre the City arms, cut in 
 ! cameo, of a delicate blue, on an olive ground. Surrounding this, a 
 j garter, of bright blue, edged with white and gold, bearing the City 
 I motto, " Domine dirige nos," in gold letters. The whole is encircled 
 I with a costly border of gold SS, alternating with rosettes of diamonds, 
 I set in silver. The Jewel is suspended from the collar by a portcullis ; 
 I but when worn without the Collar, is suspended by a broad blue ribbon. 
 I The investiture is by a massive gold chain ; and when the Mayor is re- 
 j elected, by two chains. 
 
 Mace and Swords. The Mace is silver-gilt, is 5 feet 3 inches in 
 jlength, and bears on the lower part W. R. ; it is surmounted with a 
 'regal crown and the imperial arms, and has the handle and staff richly 
 jchased. The " Pearl Sword," presented by Queen Elizabeth upon open- 
 jing the Royal Exchange, has a crimson velvet sheath thickly set with 
 jpearls ; and the handle, of gold, is richly chased in devices of Justice 
 jand Mercy. There are a Sunday sword for church ; a common sword 
 jfor the Sessions : and a black sword for the 30th of January, and Sept. 
 |2d, the anniversary of the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 Seals. The Corporate Seal is circular. Obverse : St. Paul, bearing a sword, 
 and a flag ensigned with three lions passant-gardant, standing in a city, over the 
 te of which is a key; legend, SIGILLVM: BARONVM: LONDON: A. RVM. Reverse: 
 5 City Arms, with mantlings, &c.; legend, LONDONI: DEFENCE: TVOS : DEVS 
 PTIME: CIVES. The second Seal, made 4 Richard II., bears the effigies of SS. 
 'eter and Paul, canopied. Beneath are the present arms of the City: a cross 
 with a dagger in the dexter quarter, supported by two lions. It appears to have 
 (been surmounted with a low-pointed arch. The centre compartment is flanked 
 with two canopied niches ; in each a demi-figure, a sergeant-at-arms, bearing a 
 mace, and wearing a triangular cap. The pedestals of the canopies sustain kneel- 
 ing figures paying adoration to the Virgin Mary, whose eftigy (much effaced) ap- 
 Spears in the centre niche at the top of the seal. Legend, SIGILLVM OFFICII: 
 IMAJORATVS : CIVITATIS : LOWDINI: very indistinct from wear. 
 
 The Mayor has been chief butler to the Sovereign at coronation feasts 
 isince the reign of Richard III., receiving for his fee a gold cup and cover.* 
 
 The most memorable name in the civic annals is that of Sir Richard 
 iWhittington, "thrice Lord Mayor," 1398, 1407, 1420. 
 
 Whittington was the son of Sir William Whittington, Knight, and his early 
 iestitution rests but upon the nursery tale. His prosperity is referred to the 
 poal-carrying cat of Newcastle ; but a scarce print, by Elstrucke, of Whittington 
 |.n his mayoralty robes, has a cat beside the figure, shewing the version of the 
 Nursery tale to have been then popular: in the early impressions of this plate a 
 iskull appears in place of the cat, which has rendered the original print a rarity of 
 Ijreat price among collectors. Whittington's wealth rebuilt Newgate, and St. 
 Michael's Church, Paternoster Royal ; built part of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, 
 jind the library of Christ's Hospital, and added to the Guildhall. He also be- 
 ijueathed his house at "College-hill" for a college and almshouse, which have 
 jieen taken down, and the institution removed to a handsome collegiate building 
 ; iear Highgate Archway, not far from the stone marking the spot whereon tradi- 
 tion states Whittington to have rested when a poor boy and listened to the bells of 
 iBow; the original stone (removed in 1821) is said to have been set up by desire of 
 Whittington, to assist horsemen to mount at the foot of the hill. Whittington 
 jvas buried in St. Michael's Church, beneath a costly marble tomb; but his remains 
 arere twice disturbed before the church was destroyed by fire, and now there is 
 jio olden memorial of Whittington to be traced ; his statue has been placed in 
 
 ] * There is current a piece of City gossip, of a Silver Cradle being custo- 
 jnarily presented at the accouchement of a Lady Mayoress; but in 1835 and 1843, 
 juch an event was merely signalised by a congratulatory vote of the Court of 
 Common Council. 
 
476 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Royal Exchange. Whittington was of the Mercers' Company, "flos mer- 
 catorum:" his will at Mercers' Hall bears a curious illumination of Whittinston 
 on his death-bed, his three executors, a priest, &c. Whittington is also said to 
 have lived in Sweedon's-passage, Grub-street (see page 392); and in a court in 
 Hart-street, Mark -lane, was formerly a building termed in old leases " Whit- 
 tington's Palace." 
 
 Sir Geoffry Bullen, Lord Mayor in 1453, was grandfather to Thomas 
 Earl of Wiltshire, father to Anne Bullen, and grandfather to Queen Eli- 
 zabeth ; the highest genealogical honour the City can boast of. 
 
 " The ennobled families of Cornwallis, Capel, Coventry, Legge, Cowper, Thynne, 
 "Ward, Craven, Marsham, Pulteney, Hill, Holies, Osborne, Cavendish, Bennet, 
 and others, have sprung either directly or collaterally from those who have been 
 either Mayors, Sheriffs, or Aldermen of London ; and a very large portion of the 
 peerage of the United Kingdom is related, either by descent or intermarriage, to 
 the citizens of the metropolis." Thomas Moule. 
 
 It was at the table of the Lord Mayor, in 1497, that Erasmus first 
 met Sir Thomas More, whence sprung one of the most interesting 
 friendships in literary history. 
 
 LUDGATE, LUDGATE HILL AND STREET. 
 Ludgate, one of the principal gates of the City, was situated at the 
 western extremity of Bowyer's-row, now Ludgate-hill, between the 
 London Coffee-ho'use and St. Martin's Church. Geoffrey of Monmouth 
 states the gate to have been built by the British King Ludj 66 B.C. : hence 
 its traditional name ; but more probably from the Flood, or Flud, which i 
 ran into Fleet river. We find no further mention of it until 1215, when , 
 it was fortified or rebuilt by the barons leagued against King John, j 
 and who employed as materials the remains of the stone houses of opu- \ 
 lent Jews, which had been destroyed, as proved by a stone discovered j 
 in 1586, inscribed in Hebrew, " This is the ward of Rabbi Moses, the son 
 of the honourable Rabbi Isaac." In 1260 the gate was again repaired, ! 
 and ornamented on the east side with statues of Lud and his two sons;! 
 and subsequently the statue of Queen Elizabeth was placed in the west 
 front. Ludgate was much injured in the Great Fire of 1666, and is shewn ! 
 in Greffier's picture, engraved by Birch. The gate is described by Cham- : 
 berlayne (1726) as a prison " only for debtors who are freemen of j 
 London." In the Spectator, No. 82, is " a voice bawling for charity at 
 the grate ;" just as in our time the prisoners of the Fleet loudly called, 
 upon those who passed the grate, " Pray remember the poor debtors," 
 as the board above stated, " having no allowance." Pennant describes 
 Ludgate, within his memory, " a wretched prison for debtors." Jt was 
 taken down, 1760-62, when the statue of Elizabeth was placed at the 
 east end of St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street (see page 125), and the 
 other statues were disposed of as described at page 184. By a plan 
 preserved in St. Martin's vestry-room, the great arch and postern of 
 Ludgate was 37 ft. 6 in. wide in front, and 39 ft. deep. Ludgate was 
 made a free prison in 1378 (1st Richard II.); but its privileges were 
 soon violated, and it became a place of great oppression. Rowley's 
 comedy of A Wrman never vext, or the Widow ofCornhill, is founded 
 upon the tradition of the handsome Stephen Foster, Lord Mayor in 
 1454, begging at the grate of Ludgate, and attracting the sympathy of a 
 rich widow, who paid the debt for which he was confined, and after- 
 wards married him: 
 
 " Mrs. S. Foster. But why remove the prisoners from Ludgate? 
 Stephen Foster. To take the prison down and build it new, 
 
 With leads to walk on, chambers large and fair ; 
 
 For when myself lay there, the noxious air 
 
 Choked up my spirits. None but captives, wife, 
 
 Can know what captives feel." Act v. sc. 1. 
 
MAGDALEN HOSPITAL. 477 
 
 Between 1454 and 1463 the prison was much enlarged, and a chapel 
 built by Dame Agnes Foster and the executors of Stephen her hus- 
 band, as thus recorded on a copperplate upon the walls : 
 " Deout soules that passe this way, 
 
 for Stephen Foster, late Maior, heartily pray, 
 And Dame Agnes, his spouse, to God consecrate, 
 
 that of pitie this house made of Londoners in Ludgate, 
 So that for lodging and water prisoners here nought pay, 
 
 as their keepers shall all answere at dreadful doomes day." 
 At the rebuilding of Ludgate in 1586, "the verse being unhappily turned inward 
 
 the wall," Stow tells us he had the like " graven outward in prose, declaring 
 im (Foster) to be a fishmonger, because some upon alight occasion (as a maiden's 
 ead in a glass window) had fabled him to be a mercer, and to have begged there 
 
 it Ludgate,'' &c. 
 
 A quarto tract, Prison Thoughts, by Thomas Browning, a prisoner 
 n Ludgate, " where poore citizens are confined and starved amidst 
 :opies of their freedom," was published in that prison by the author 
 n 1682, and is supposed to have suggested Dr. Dodd's Prison Thoughts. 
 
 Ludgate-hill extends from Fleet-street to St. Martin's Church (see 
 >age 140) ; and ~Ludgate-street from thence to St. Paul's. On the hill, 
 >pposite the gate, stopped the rebellion of Sir Thomas Wyat (see p. 398). 
 Below is the Bell Savage Inn, described at p. 397. Ludgate-street 
 i,nd hill was famous for mercers in Stow's time. At the north-east 
 rorner (St. Paul's Churchyard), No. 65, lived John Newbery, for whom 
 Goldsmith wrote Goody Two-shoes, a pamphlet on the Cock-lane Ghost, 
 Lnd a History of England, and edited the Public Ledger newspaper. 
 To Newbery succeeded John Harris, and next Grant and Griffith. At 
 [the Dunciad," in Ludgate-street, D. Griffiths published the Monthly 
 Review, No. 1, May 1749. 
 
 1 On the north is Ave- Maria-lane, leading to Amen -corner and 
 Paternoster-row; and Stationers' Hall-court, leading to the hall of the 
 Itationers' Company (see p. 365). On the south is Creed-lane. 
 
 I In 1792 was discovered a barbican, or watch-tower, between Ludgate and the 
 leet-ditch, forming part of the extension of the City wall in 1276 ; a fine fragment 
 f which exists in St. Martin's-court, opposite the Old Bailey. In a bastion of the 
 all, in 1800, was found a sepulchral monument, in the rear of No. 24, the London 
 
 :|offee-house, where it is now preserved : it is dedicated to Claudina Martina, by 
 jer husband Anencletus, a provincial Roman soldier. Here are also a fragment 
 
 Mf a statue of Hercules, and a female head. 
 
 j At No. 32, north side, was the picturesque old shop-front of Rundell 
 jnd Bridge, goldsmiths and diamond-jewellers to the Crown, with the 
 gn of the Golden Salmon. Here was executed Flaxman's Shield of 
 Lchilles, in silver-gilt : and here was fitted up the imperial crown for 
 pe coronation of George IV. in 1821 ; and a silver wine-cooler, which 
 jccupied two years in chasing. Mrs. Rundell wrote The Art of Cookery 
 ^Domestic Cookery}, for which she ultimately received 2000 guineas. 
 It No. 45, William Hone published his political satires, with woodcuts 
 w Cruikshank ; and his Every-day Booh, Ancient Mysteries, fyc. 
 
 Through Ludgate hill and street there have passed, in twelve hours, 
 p2 vehicles, 13,025 horses, and 105,352 persons. 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, 
 
 George's Fields, for the relief and reformation of unfortunate 
 omen and penitent prostitutes, was projected by Robert Dingley, 
 )nas Hanway, and a few others, in 1758;* and opened at a house in 
 rescot-street, Goodman's Fields, when eight unhappy objects were 
 
 A plan of the kind was suggested in the Gentleman's Magazine for April 
 |51 ; and the Rambler, No. 107. 
 
478 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 admitted ; and from thence to Feb. 26, 1761, there were received into 
 "Magdalen-house" 281 : of 100 inmates, not a seventh were 15 years old. 
 Among the names of the earliest benefactors occurs that of Omychund, the 
 black merchant of Calcutta. He bequeathed between this and the Foundling 
 Hospital 37,500 current rupees, to be equally divided. Unfortunately, however, 
 " a portion only of this munificent legacy could be extracted from the grasp of 
 Hurzorimal, his executor, notwithstanding the zealous interference of the gover- 
 nor-general (Warren Hastings) and other eminent functionaries." Brownlow. 
 
 Another early promoter was the "Rev. "William Dodd, who, in 1759, 
 preached a sermon for the benefit of the charity ; and again in 1760, 
 before Prince Edward, Duke of York : both sermons are eloquent 
 compositions, were printed, and large editions sold.* The Magdalens 
 wore a grey uniform dress, high in the neck, long black mittens, mob- 
 cap, and a broad black chip hat. In the list of contributors we find 
 " A Lady unknown, a Lottery Ticket, No. 34987, in the Lottery 1758, 
 a Prize of 5001. ;" Lord Chesterfield, 211. per annum; "Will's Coffee- 
 house, Lincoln's Inn, 16/. 16*. ;" and the " Charity Boxes," in one year, 
 received 458?. 10*.; and the women's needlework produced 2821. Us. 
 3d. : there being about 100 in the house. 
 
 Among their employments was making their own clothes, spinning the 
 thread and making the cloth ; to knit their stockings; to make bone-lace, black 
 lace, artificial flowers, children's toys, winding silk, embroidery, millinery, 
 making women's and children's shoes, mantuas, stays, coats, cauls for wigs, 
 weaving hair for perukes, making leathern and silken gloves and garters, draw- 
 ing patterns, making soldiers' clothes and seamen's slops, making carpets after 
 the Turkey manner, &c. 
 
 In 1769, the charity was incorporated, and the institution declared 
 extra-parochial : the present Hospital was commenced, 63 acres of St. 
 George's common fields having been purchased by the governors. 
 Attached to the Hospital is a Chapel, rendered attractive by the singing 
 of the Magdalens, screened from the congregation ; and the donations 
 at the chapel doors are very productive to the Hospital funds : formerly, 
 the admission on Sunday evenings was by ticket. Queen Charlotte pa- 
 tronised this charity 56 years. Queen Victoria became patroness in 1841. 
 
 Fit objects for the Magdalen charity are admitted without any recommenda- 
 tion, on their own application and petition, on the first Thursday in every month. 
 Nearly 3000 have been received since the Hospital was established ; more than two- 
 thirds have been permanently reclaimed, and many have married and become 
 respectable members of society: all who have behaved well are discharged with 
 some provision for their future maintenance. 
 
 MANSION-HOUSE (THE) 
 
 Of the Lord Mayor, and his residence during his year of office, occupies 
 the site of Stocks' Market, nearly facing the area of the Royal Exchange. 
 The foundation of the Mansion House was laid in 1739, by Lord Mayor 
 Perry ; but the building was not finished until 1753, in the mayoralty of 
 Sir Crisp Gascoigne, the first Lord Mayor who resided in it. The 
 architect was the elder Mr. Dance; the style is that of Palladio; and the 
 building, which is entirely insulated, is of Portland-stone, and resem- 
 bles a massive Italian palace. The principal front has a very fine 
 Corinthian portico, with six fluted columns, supporting a pediment, in 
 the tympanum of which is a group of allegorical sculpture by Sir Robert 
 Taylor. In the centre is a female impersonation of the City of London, 
 trampling on her enemies ; on her right is the Roman lictor, and a boy 
 bearing the cap of liberty; and beyond them is Neptune and nautical 
 insignia. To the left of the centre is another female attended by two 
 
 * Account of the Magdalen Charity; with the above Sermons, Advice to the 
 Magdalens, Prayers, Rules, &c. Printed in 1761. 
 
MANSIONS. 479 
 
 boys, and bearing an olive-branch and cornucopia ; the extreme angles 
 being filled with casks, bales, and other emblems of commerce. On 
 each side a flight of steps, balustraded, ascends to the entrance beneath 
 the portico; and in the rusticated basement is the entrance to the 
 offices. On the west side is a Roman-Doric porch. A long narrow attic, 
 called the Mare's (Mayor's) Nest, has been removed from the roof. 
 
 The interior of the block of buildings was an open court of elaborate 
 character, similar to that part of an Italian palace ; but the central 
 area is now filled with the saloon, which is of wood. This grand ban- 
 quet-room was designed by the Earl of Burlington, and is called the 
 Egyptian Hall, from its accordance with the Egyptian Hall described 
 by Vitruvius. It has two side screens of lofty scagliola Sienna columns, 
 supporting a vaulted roof, and lit by a large western window: it can 
 dine 400 guests, and here the Lord Mayor gives his state-banquets. 
 In the side walls are sixteen niches, to be hereafter filled with sculp- 
 tured groups or figures. 
 
 There are other dining-rooms ; as the Venetian Parlour, Wilkes's 
 Parlour, &c. The drawing-rooms and ball-room are superbly deco- 
 rated ; above the latter is the Justice-room (constructed in 1849), where 
 the Lord Mayor sits daily. In a contiguous apartment was the State 
 Bed. There are a few gallery portraits and other pictures. The kitchen 
 and wine-cellars have a cryptal spaciousness. 
 
 MANSIONS. 
 
 APSLET HOUSE, (Duke of Wellington), Hyde-Park-corner, Piccadilly, 
 and happily called by a foreigner " No. 1 London," was built about 1785-6, 
 by the Adams, for Henry Bathurst Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, and 
 Lord Chancellor, who died in 1794. Here resided the Marquis Wel- 
 lesley, elder brother of the great Duke of Wellington, who purchased 
 the house in 1820, It was then a plain brick mansion, but was cased 
 with Bath-stone in 1828, by B. Wyatt, who designed the tetrastyle 
 Corinthian portico and pediment upon a rusticated entrance arcade; 
 built a gallery and suite of rooms on the west or Hyde-Park side, and 
 ienlarged the garden by a strip of ground from the Park. These ad- 
 iditions and repairs are stated to have cost 130,000/. 
 
 The bullet-proof iron Venetian blinds (the first of the kind) were put up by 
 jthe late Duke of Wellington, after his windows had been broken by the Reform 
 (Bill mobs; and these blinds were not removed during the Duke's life-time. 
 ("They shall stay where they are," was his remark, "as a monument of the 
 [gullibility of a mob, and the worthlessness of that sort of popularity for which 
 they who give it can assign no good reason. I don't blame the men that broke 
 Imy windows; they only did what they were instigated to do by others who ought 
 ito have known better. But if any one be disposed to grow giddy with popular 
 applause, I think that a glance towards these iron shutters will soon sober him." 
 
 The courtyard is inclosed by richly bronzed metal gates (in which 
 fche Grecian honeysuckle is finely cast) ; andthestone piers have curious 
 phapiters. The hall-door and knocker belonged to the original house, 
 in the waiting-room is Steell's bust of " the Duke ;" Castlereagh, by 
 jChantrey ; Pitt, by Nollekens ; and a reduced copy of Rauch's statue of 
 IBlucher ; busts of Mr. Perceval, Colonel Gurwood, Mr. Ponsonby, &c. 
 At the foot of the grand staircase is Canova's colossal marble statue of 
 Napoleon, holding a bronze figure of Victory in his right hand: it is 
 Canova's noblest and most antique-looking work ; it is 11 feet high, 
 imd, except the left arm, was cut from one block of marble. 
 
 The pictures in the first drawing-room include the Card-players, by 
 Daravaggio, fine in expression, and marvellous in colour, light, and 
 jhade ; the great Duke of Maryborough on horseback (from White 
 jtnights), probably by Vandermeulen j " Chelsea Pensioners reading the 
 
480 CURIOSITIES OF 
 
 Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo," a commission to Wilkie from the 
 Duke, for which he paid 1200 guineas in bank-notes ; and the com- 
 panion-picture, "Greenwich Pensioners," by Burnet, and bought from 
 him by the Duke for 500 guineas ; Van Amburg in the Den with Lions 
 and Tigers, painted by Sir E. Landseer, R.A., after the instructions of 
 the Duke, who, with the Bible in his hand, pointed out the passage 
 (Gen. i. 26) in which dominion is given to Adam over the earth and 
 animals : ' he caused the text to be inscribed on the frame as the au- 
 thority which conferred on him a privilege of power, and gave to him- 
 self ' the great commission' which he carried out on the fields of battle 
 and chase." (Quarterly Review, No. clxxxiv.) Next are large copies by 
 Bonnemaison, after the four celebrated pictures by Raphael at Madrid; 
 the Melton Hunt, by Grant, R.A. ; Napoleon studying the Map of Eu- 
 rope, a small full-length ; Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner ; the Highland Whisky- 
 still, by Landseer, R.A.; and portraits of Marshal Soult, Lord Beres- 
 ford, Lord Lynedoch, and Lord Anglesey, by Sir Thomas Lawrence; 
 Lord Nelson, by Sir William Beechey ; Sir George Murray, Sir Thomas 
 Picton; and Sarah the first Lady Lyndhurst, by Wilkie : the canvas was < 
 pierced by a stone during a Reform Bill riot, but it has been cleverly 
 repaired." Here also are George IV. and William IV. (whole-lengths), 
 by Sir D. Wilkie. There are at least six portraits of Napoleon; 
 and full-lengths of the Emperor Alexander ; and Kings of Prussia, 
 France, and the Netherlands. Still, there is no faithful or worthy 
 representation of the Duke in the collection ; nor of statesmen of his 
 generation not even Peel. There is but one battle-sceneWaterloo, 
 taken from Napoleon's head-quarters, by Sir W. Allan ; of this picture 
 the Duke observed, " Good, very good not too much smoke." 
 
 Among the furniture are two magnificent Roman mosaic tables; 
 a splendid pair of Sevres vases, the gift of Louis XVIII.; a malachite 
 vase, from Alexander Emperor of Russia; a service of Sevres china,] 
 from Louis XVIII., &c. 
 
 In the Picture-gallery, in the western wing, the Waterloo Banquet! 
 was held annually on June 18, until 1852. Over the fireplace hangs a copy] 
 of the "Windsor" Charles I. on horseback. Here is the gem of the collec-j 
 tion, " Christ on the Mount of Olives," by Correggio, on panel, the most] 
 celebrated specimen of the master in this country: the light proceeds] 
 from the Saviour. This picture was captured in Spain, in the carriage] 
 of Joseph Buonaparte, and restored by the captor to Ferdinand VII., bat 3 
 was pVesented to the Duke by that sovereign. Next in excellence are! 
 the examples of Velasquez, chiefly portraits, and "the Water-seller;"] 
 a Female holding a wreath, by Titian ; specimens of Claude, TeniersJ 
 and Jan Steen ; the Signing of the peace of Westphalia, by Terburg, J 
 from the Talleyrand collection. Here is also a repetition of the Madonna! 
 della Leda of Raphael, by Giulio Romano ; and a marble bust of Pauline j 
 Buonaparte, by Canova. Jn the centre are two majestic candelabra of I 
 Russian porphyry, 12 feet high, presented by Alexander Emperor of Rus-i 
 sia; and two fine vases of Swedish porphyry, from the King of Sweden.! 
 The Gallery and the Waterloo Banquet are well seen in Salter's large 
 picture, engraved by Greatbatch ; and the Duke receiving his guests'! 
 has been painted by J. P. Knight, R.A. 
 
 In the China-room, on the ground-floor, are a magnificent Dresden dessert- . 
 service, presented by the King of Saxony, painted with the Duke's victories irj!- 
 India, the Peninsula, and at Waterloo ; other services of china presented by the I 
 Emperor of Austria, the King of Prussia, and Louis XVIII.; the silver plateau 
 30 ft. long and 3 ft. wide, and lighted by 106 wax-tapers, the gift of tb< " 
 Kin? of Portugal ; three silver-gilt candelabra (a foot-soldier, life-size), presentee 
 by the Corporation of London ; the superb Waterloo Vase, from the City merchant.' 
 and bankers; and the Wellington Shield, designed by T. Stohard, R.A., and ir 
 general treatment resembling Flaxman's Shield of Achilles. It is silver-gilt 
 
MANSIONS. 481 
 
 circular, about 3 ft. 8 in. diameter. In the centre is the Duke of Wellington on 
 horseback, the head of his charger forming the boss of the shield; around him are 
 his illustrious officers ; above is Fame crowning the Duke with a wreath of laurel ; 
 and at his feet are prostrate figures of Anarchy, Discord, and Tyranny. The 
 wonder of this central group is the management of the horses within the circle (of 
 oak-branches), the evolutions of the charges emanating from the centre, in itself a 
 most original conception. The border of the shield is in ten compartments, each 
 bearing a bas-relief of the principal events in the Duke's military life, to the peace 
 of 1814, and are as follow: Assaye, Vimiera, the Douro, Torres Vedras, Badajoz, 
 Salamanca, Vittoria, the Pyrenees, Toulouse, and the Duke receiving his coronet 
 from the Prince Regent. Stothard's designs are large drawings in sepia : he made 
 his own models tor the chaser, etched the designs the same size as the originals, 
 and received his own demand, 150 guineas. The columns, by Smirke, stand one 
 on each side of the shield, about 4 ft. 3 in. high, surmounted with figures of Fame 
 and Victory: each column consists of a palm-tree, with a capital of leaves; 
 around the base are emblematic figures, and military trophies and weapons at 
 the angles. The cost of this superb national gift, completed in 1822, was 7000J. 
 
 In the China-room, also, are bronze busts, of great spirit and finish, of 
 Henri Quatre, the Prince of Conde", Louis XIV., Marshal Turenne, and 
 ;he Marquis Wellesley. Beyond is the Secretary's-room, the Great 
 Duke's Private-room, and lastly his Bed-room, which, early in 1853, 
 ;he public were permitted to inspect, precisely arranged as they were 
 .ast used by his Grace in September 1852 : the library he con- 
 sulted, the books he kept beside him for reference, the mass of papers, 
 maps, and documents, even to the latest magazine, were undisturbed. 
 The Duke's room was lined with bookcases and despatch-boxes, and had 
 ei red morocco reading-chair, a second chair, a desk to stand and write at ; 
 i circular-topped writing-table ; two engravings of the Duke, one when 
 young, the other (by Count D'Orsay) when old ; a small drawing of the 
 ICountess of Jersey, by Cos way, between medallions of the present 
 I )uchess of Wellington and Jenny Lind. In the Secretary's-room was a 
 ough unpainted box, which accompanied the Duke through all his wars ; 
 n which he stowed away his private documents, and whereon he wrote 
 nany of his despatches, and traced the orders for military manoeuvres. 
 A short passage to the east leads to "the Duke's Bed-room," 
 vhich is narrow, shapeless, and ill-lighted ; the bedstead small, provided 
 vith only a mattress and bolster, and scantily curtained with green 
 ilk ; the only ornaments of the room being an unfinished sketch of the 
 > >resent Duchess of Wellington, two cheap prints of military men, and 
 small portrait in oil. Yet here slept the great Duke, whose " eightieth 
 i ear was by." In the grounds and shrubbery he took daily walking ex- 
 rcise ; where, with the garden-engine, he was wont to enjoy exertion.* 
 lastly, "in fine afternoons, the sun casts the shadow of the Duke's eques- 
 : Han statue full upon Apsley House, and the sombre image may be seen 
 I hiding spirit-like over the front." (Quarterly Revieic, No. clxxxiv.) 
 ! The house and pictures can only be seen by special permission. A 
 
 I catalogue raisonnee is published by Mitchell, Old Bond-street. 
 
 I Part of the site of Apsley House was a piece of ground given by George II. 
 
 I 1 an old soldier, Allen, whom the king recognised as having served in the battle 
 | Dettingen. Upon this spot Allen built a small tenement, in place of the apple - 
 
 I jail kept by his wife ; and on the erection of Apsley House, in 1784, the ground 
 us sold for a considerable sum by Allen's successors to Apsley, Lord Bathurst. 
 he apple-stall is shewn in a print dated 1766. 
 
 I ARGYLL HOUSE, Argyll-street, centre of the east side, is a plain 
 ansion, with a front court-yard, and was formerly the residence of 
 
 j je Duke of Argyll, by whom it was sold, about 1820, to the Earl of 
 
 perdeen: here "the Aberdeen ?>" listry" was formed in 1852. 
 
 I * Jan. 2, 1820. General Bonaparte was " amusing himself with the pipe of 
 b fire-engine, spouting water on the trees and flowers in his favourite garden." 
 
 i yournal of Capt. Nicholls ; Captivity of Napoleon at St. Helena; Sir Hudson 
 
 . \we's Letters and Journals, 1853. 
 
 I I 
 
482 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BARING, Mr. T., No. 41 Upper Grosvenor-street,hasafine collection 
 of pictures ; Dutch and Flemish from the cabinet of the Baron Verstolk, 
 at the Hague ; Italian, formerly Sir Thomas Baring's ; English pictures, 
 mostly from the exhibitions of the Royal Academy. Among the Spanish 
 pictures are four specimens by Murillo, including the Madonna on the 
 Crescent. Here, also, is St. Jerome in his Study, an authentic picture 
 by J. Van Eyck ; with works of N. and G. Poussin, Parmegiano, L. 
 Caracci, C. Dolci, Salvator Rosa, Morales, &c. The collection can be 
 seen only through introduction of Mr. Baring's friends. 
 
 BATH HOUSE (Lord Ashburton), No. 82 Piccadilly, built by the first 
 Lord Ashburton upon the site of the old mansion of Sir William Pul- 
 teney, Bart. The entrance is from Bolton-street : the hall occupies the 
 centre of the mansion to the roof, of embossed glass ; and the princi- 
 pal apartments open into its gallery, %A hich has a richly-gilt balustrade. 
 This hall has a parqueted oak floor, and the walls are painted with Pom- 
 peian subjects: here are antique busts and modern statues; including 
 Thorwaldsen's Hebe, and Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. The prin- 
 cipal apartments command a view' over the Green Park and St. James's 
 Park, with Buckingham Palace ; Piccadilly being masked by the ter- 
 race-wall : all the floors are oak, and every door is mahogany. 
 
 The Ashburton collection is pre-eminent for its Dutch and Flemish pictures, 
 from the cabinet of Talleyrand. Here are: Portraits of Jansen, and the writing- 
 master Lieven van Coppenhol, by Rembrandt; Moses before the Burning Bush, 
 Domenichino; Alehouse, and Playing at Nine Pins, Jan Steen; La Ferme auj 
 Colombier, Wouvermans ; Rape of the Sabines, and Reconciliation of Romans 
 and Sabines, small, but cost 1000Z. ; St. Thomas of Villeneuva dividing his Cloak i 
 with Beggar-boys, and the Virgin attended by Angels, Murillo; Water-mill,! 
 Karl du Jardin ; fine specimens of Cuyp, Wouvermans, Teniers, Ostade, and Paul 
 Potter; Hay-harvest, A. Vandervelde; Lobster-catchers, and Le Fagot, N. Ber-| 
 ghem; the Infant Christ asleep in the arms of the Virgin, an Angel lifting the, 
 quilt, Leonardo da Vinci (belonged to the Prior of the Escurial); St. Peter, St. 
 Margaret, St. Mary Magdalene, and Andrew of Padua, Correggio ; Daughter of! 
 Herodias with the head of St. John, Titian; Christ on the Mount of Olives, P.! 
 Veronese; Stag-hunt, Velasquez; Wolf-hunt, Rubens; Virgin and Child, and! 
 Charles I. and Henrietta-Maria (full-lengths), \andyke; Hermit praying, G. 
 Douw; Boy blowing Bubbles, Netscher; Street in Utrecht (sunshine), De ! 
 Hooghe; Head of Ariadne, Sir Joshua Reynolds; Head, Holbein; works ofWy- ; 
 nants, Ruysdael, Hobbema, &c. 
 
 In the dining-room of Bath House were wont to meet Thomas 
 Moore, J. W. Croker, Sydney Smith, and J. G. Lockhart; Dr. Cople-, 
 stone, Bishop of Llandaff; "Rogers, Hallam, Chantrey, Wilkie, and, 
 Theodore Hook. 
 
 BEAUFORT HOUSE (Duke of Beaufort), No. 22 Arlington-street 
 Piccadilly, is superbly painted in fresco by Latilla, chiefly in the styles 
 of Herculaneum and Pompeii : the banquetting-room is chaste baccha- 
 nalian ; and the drawing-room is gold and silver, temp. Henry IV., witt 
 panels of the story of Mary Queen of Scots. 
 
 BEDFORD, DUKE OF, No. 6 Belgrave Square: the mansion contains 
 a small but very choice collection of Dutch pictures, c. 
 
 Here are: Herodias with the Head of John the Baptist, by Giorgione; stud; 
 of Two Dogs, by Titian ; Twelfth Night, by Jan Steen; Interior, by Bassen ant 
 Polemberg; the Nativity, by A. Werf; Travellers, by I. Ostade; Landscape,!)} 
 Ruysdael; Moses treading on Pharaoh's Crown, by N. Poussin; Gulliver among* 
 the Houyounims, by Gilpin; 4 Cuyps, small but excellent; Dutch Courtship, b; 
 A. Bromver; Little Girl, by Rembrandt; the Pont Neuf at Paris, by P. Wouver 
 mans; Pair of Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa; the Death of Hippolytus, study b; 
 Rubens; River View, by Van der Capella; Sabine Mountain City, by G. Poussin 
 the Tribute Money, by Sir G. Hayter ; Village Fete, by Teniers (portraits); Goin 
 out Hawking, and Landscape and Cattle, by Paul Potter: Landscape, by A. and S 
 Both; Heads in grisaille, by Vandyke; Djad Christ, byGuercino; Sunset, Claude 
 
MANSIONS. 483 
 
 BRIDGEWATER HOUSE (Earl of Ellesmere), on the east side of the 
 Green Park, adjoins Spencer House, and has its south or entrance 
 front in Cleveland-row, named from that "beautiful fury," Barbara 
 Duchess of Cleveland, to whom Charles II. presented Berkshire House, 
 which formerly stood here. The new mansion, designed by Sir Charles 
 Barry, R. A., is almost a square: south front 142 feet 6 inches; west 
 122 feet. The elevations and details are mostly from palaces of Rome 
 and Venice; the chimney-shafts form architectural features; the main 
 cornice is richly carved with flowers, and the second-floor string-course, 
 a folded ribbon, is very picturesque. The fenestration is very characteris- 
 tic: the principal windows have arched pediments, each tilled with ara- 
 besque foliage, and a shield with the monogram of E E entwined, dos- 
 a-dos ; in the panel beneath is the Bridgewater motto "Sicdonec;" the 
 first-floor window-dressings have elegant festoons of fruit and foliage ; 
 and the balustrade is surmounted with sculpture. The entrance-porch 
 on the south is inscribed, " Restauratum 1849;" and the keystone of the 
 arched doorway bears a lion rampant, the crest of the Earl of Ellesmere. 
 The Picture-gallery, on the north side, is the height of the two floors, 
 L10 feet long, and has a separate entrance for the public : it is lighted 
 hy glazed panels in the coved ceiling, at night from burners outside. 
 
 This renowned collection was formed principally from the gallery of the Duke 
 of Orleans, by the Duke of Bridgewater; whence it is called the Bridgewater Gal- 
 ery ; and being left by the duke to his nephew, the Marquis of Stafford, it is like- 
 wise frequently called the Stafford Gallery. It has been much enlarged by the 
 >resent possessor, the Marquis's second son, now Earl of Ellesmere. It is the 
 inest private collection in England: from ihe time of Raphael, the series is un- 
 equalled ; and in the Caracci school it is without rival. Among the 305 pictures 
 ire 4 by Raphael, 5 by Titian, 7 by A. Caracci, 5 by L. Caracci, 5 Domenichino, 
 Claude, 8 N. Poussin, 8 Teniers, 5 Berghem, 6 Cuyp, 6 A. Ostade, 5 Rembrandt, 
 Vandervelde, 2 Paul Veronese, 3 Velasquez, 2 Guido, 3 Rubens, 1 Vandyke, 3 
 j. Douw, 3 Hobbema, &c. The great Assumption of the Virgin, by Guido, has 
 he chief honour of the gallery ; the Vierge au Palmier is one of the purest 
 Raphaels in England ; the Seven Sacraments of N. Poussin, and Moses striking 
 ;he Rock, are very fine ; Cuyp's Landing of Prince Maurice looks as if the painter 
 had dipped his pencil in sunlight. Here, also, are Turner's Gale at Sea, nearly 
 qual to the finest Vandervelde in the collection ; De la Roche's large picture of 
 Charles I. in the Guard-room; a Wilson equal to Niobe; and the Chandos Por- 
 rait of Shakspeare, purchased by Lord Ellesmere at Stowe, in 1848, for 355 
 ;uineas : it is presumed to have been painted by Burbage, the actor; was left by 
 Taylor, the Poet's Hamlet, to Sir W. Davenant; was possessed by Betterton the 
 ictor, and Mrs. Barry the actress ; and must be regarded as the most authentic 
 ikeness of Shakspeare.* The collection is valued at nearly 250, 0001. : it vies with 
 he Esterhazy and Lichtenstein galleries, at Vienna; the Manfrini gallery, at Ve- 
 lice; the Zambeccari collection, at Bologna; and the Borghese, Cofonna, Sciarra, 
 ind Doria collections, at Rome. 
 
 BURLINGTON HOUSE (Hon. C. C. Cavendish), No. 49 Piccadilly, was 
 Vriginally built for Richard Boyle, second Earl of Burlington, by Sir 
 John Denham, Surveyor-general to Charles I. A view by Kip shews 
 he house in 1700, devoid of ornament, with its quaint gardens, and 
 jeyond them the country; and the Piccadilly front is planted with 
 nrge trees. The mansion was fronted by the celebrated amateur-ar- 
 hitect, Lord Burlington, with Portland stone, and a classic Doric co- 
 pnnade, borrowed from a palace by Palladio at Vicenza ; the wall was 
 ;?built, and an arched gateway added : in the Vitruvius Britannicus the 
 blonnade and gateway are attributed to Colin Campbell, and this in 
 '< lord Burlington's lifetime. Horace Walpole was in Italy when these 
 Inbellishments were completed; and going to a ball at Burlington 
 , louse at night, did not perceive their beauty ; next morning, at sun- 
 
 5 1 * A presumed contemporary portrait of Shakspeare is at Ely House, Dover- 
 reet; it bears no name, but cleaning has revealed, " JEt. 3!), 1603," which agrees 
 uh the age of Shakspeare in that year. 
 
484 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 rise, looking out of the window, Walpole was surprised with the vision 
 of the colonnade : " it seemed one of those edifices in fairy tales that are 
 raised by genii in a night-time." 
 
 " Burlington's fair palace still remains; 
 Beauty within, without proportion reigns : 
 Beneath his eye declining art revives, 
 The wall with animated pictures lives !" 
 
 Thus far Gay (Trivia), who often met there Pope and Arbuthnot. 
 Marco Ricco painted the hall staircase and some ceilings ; " the in- 
 terior," says Pennant, "built on the models of Palladio, and adapted 
 more to the climate of Lombardy, and to the banks of the Adige or 
 the Brenta, than to the Thames, is gloomy and destitute of gaiety and 
 cheerfulness." Kent, the architect and landscape-gardener, was greatl? 
 patronised by Lord Burlington, and had apartments in this mansion'; 
 he died here in 1748. The Earl converted "Ten-Acres Field," at 
 the back of his gardens, into a little town, bounded by Bond- street 
 and Swallow-street; and in 1719 he sold a piece of ground in Boyle- 
 street for a school-house, which he designed for the trustees. Lord 
 Burlington died in 1753, when the mansion fell to the Devonshjei 
 family, conditionally that it should not be demolished. On the expiry I 
 of the lease in 1809, it was proposed to take down the mansion, and, 
 erect a street upon the site ; but a renewal was secured by Lord George 
 Cavendish (created Earl of Burlington 1831), who restored the house, 
 raised the Venetian windows in the south front, and thus saved "one! 
 of the finest pieces of architecture in Europe." (Sir W. Chambers.)} 
 The Duke of Portland, Prime Minister to George III., died at Bur- 
 lington House in 1809, a few days after he had resigned the seals of 
 office. In the western wing were deposited the Elgin Marbles, before 
 they were removed to the British Museum. In 1814 a grand ball was 
 given here to the Allied Sovereigns by White's Club. (See page 199.)] 
 In 1819 was built upon a slip of the grounds the Burlington Arcade. I 
 
 The archway has a lofty pediment, flanked by the supporters of the Bur-j 
 lington arms, and supported by four rusticated columns, coupled. It is comme-j 
 morated by Hogarth in a caricatura print (1731) inscribed, "The Man of Taste,] 
 containing a View of Burlington Gate:" on the summit is Kent (served by Lord 
 Burlington as a labourer) flourishing his palette and pencils over Michael Angela 
 and Raphael; lower down is Pope whitewashing the front, and bespattering the 
 Duke ot'Chandos in the street. Ralph refers to the front as " the most expensive] 
 wall in England ; the height wonderfully proportioned to the length, and the deco-'j 
 rations both simple and magnificent ; the grand entrance is elegant and beautiful 1 
 and by covering the house entirely from the eye, gives pleasure and surprise, at I 
 the opening of the whole front with the area before it at once." Any passengeif 
 who has seen the mansion through the great gateway from the footpath may ap i 
 preciate the above effect. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE HOUSE, No. 94 Piccadilly, was previously Cholmon- 
 deley House. Here died, July 8, 1850, Adolphus, Duke of "Cam bridge, 
 youngest son of George III , 'born 1774. 
 
 CHESTERFIELD HOUSE (the Earl of Chesterfield), South Audley- 
 street, was built by Ware, 1749, for Philip, fourth Earl, who describes 
 the boudoir as " the gayest and most cheerful room in England/' and 
 the library " the finest room in London ;" and they remain unsurpassed. 
 The columns of the screen facing the court-yard, and the superb 
 marble staircase (each step a single block twenty feet long), are from 
 Canons (Duke of Chandos's) ; and the gilt hall-lantern, for eighteen 
 lights, from Houghton (Sir Robert Walpole's). In the library, above 
 the bookcases, are portraits of eminent authors contemporary with the 
 fourth Earl of Chesterfield, who wrote here his celebrated Letters to 
 
MANSIONS. 485 
 
 his Son. Under the cornice of the room, extending all round in capi- 
 tals twelve inches high, are these lines from Horace : 
 
 NtTNC'VETERUM-LIBRIS-NUNC'SOMNO'ET'INERTIBUS-HORIS. 
 DUCERE'SOLICITJE JUCUNDA'OBLIVIA'VIT^E. 
 
 Throughout the room are busts of ancient orators, besides vases and 
 bronzes and modern statuettes. The windows look upon the finest 
 private garden in London, and in the lofty trees are a few rooks. 
 
 CLARENCE HOUSE (Duchess of Kent), on the east side of Stable- 
 yard, St. James's Palace, was built for the Duke of Clarence, after- 
 wards King William IV. : it has a handsome portico in two stories, the 
 lower Doric, and the upper Corinthian. 
 
 DE GREY, EARL, No. 4 St. James's-square, possesses a choice gallery 
 of pictures, including portraits, mostly whole-lengths, by Vandyke; "Ti- 
 ;ian's Daughter" holding a casket ; a pair of landscapes by Claude; a 
 fine picture by Salvator Rosa ; and a few examples of the Dutch school. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE HOUSE (Duke of Devonshire), Piccadilly, occupies the 
 site of Berkeley House, formerly " Hay Hill Farm :" it was built by 
 William Kent for the third Duke of Devonshire, at the cost of 20,OOOZ., 
 ncluding 1000Z. for the design. It was also called Stratton House. 
 
 Berkeley House was built about 1665 for Lord Jobn Berkeley, and is stated 
 jy Evelyn to have cost " neere 30,000/. :" it was remarkable for its great number 
 of chimneys, noble state-rooms, cedar staircase, the walls painted by Laguerre, and 
 gardens, "incomparable by reason of the inequalities of the ground, and a pretty 
 piscina," and holly-hedges on the terrace, advised by Evelyn. The Princess Anne, 
 ifterwards Queen Anne, resided here, from her leaving Whitehall, until 1697 : in 
 the Postman, No. 94 (1695), is advertised a silver cistern, valued at 750/., stolen 
 out of Berkeley House. The first Duke of Devonshire purchased the mansion in 
 1697 ; and March 31, he entertained King William III. at dinner there. The duke 
 died here in 1701 : it was destroyed, October 16, 1733, by fire, through the boiling 
 over of a glue-pot while the workmen were at breakfast ; the house was ent'rely 
 consumed, but the library, pictures, medals, and other curiosities were saved. 
 
 " Lord Pembroke (Shakspeare's Lord Pembroke), Donne, Waller. Denham, and 
 Dryden read their verses here. Devonshire House, towards the close of the last 
 Icentury, was famous as the head-quarters of Whig politics, and for the fascina- 
 tions of its beautiful Duchess, whose verses on William Tell produced a burst of 
 admiration from Coleridge : 
 
 ' Oh, lady, nurs'd in pomp and pleasure. 
 Where learnt you that heroic measure?' 
 
 [Bhe learnt it from her race (the Spencers); from their family tutor, Sir William 
 Bones; and from her own cordial nature." Leigh Hunt. 
 
 Devonshire House has an unpretending exterior, with an ill-matched 
 
 portico : the old entrance, by a double flight of steps, was removed in 
 
 u.8-iO ; and in the rear of the house has been erected a state staircase, 
 
 Iwith white scagliola walls, marble stairs, gilt-brass balustrades, and 
 
 ?lass hand-rail. The whole interior has been refitted by the present 
 
 )uke ; except a small room, blue and silver, designed by the celebrated 
 
 Duchess. The Grand Saloon, originally the vestibule, is superbly deco- 
 
 ated and painted in the rich style of Le Brun, and hung with Lyons 
 
 jrocade-silk ; portraits over the doors, &c. The Ball-room, white and 
 
 ?old, is huug with French silk brocatelle, blue and gold, and a few 
 
 nagnificent pictures. In this superb room took place the first amateur 
 
 >erformance of Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton's comedy of Not so Bad as 
 
 Ice Seem, for the benefit of the Guild of Literature and Art, before 
 
 ; ler Majesty and Prince Albert, May 16, 1851. The grounds of Devon- 
 
 jhire House are a fine specimen of town landscape-gardening. (See 
 
 p ARBENS, page 323.) Upon the gate-piers in Piccadilly are garlanded 
 
 pises, gracefully sculptured. Among the pictures are Dobson's por- 
 
 rait of Sir Thomas Browne; Lord Burlington, the architect, by 
 
48 G CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Kneller; and Lord Richard Cavendish, by Reynolds. In a glass-case 
 are ' the Devonshire Gems," 564 cut s:ofies and medals. Here is the 
 renowned Libra di Verita, in which Claude Lorraine made drawings 
 of all the pictures he ever executed : they number about 200, and on the 
 back of each is Claude's monogram, the place for which the picture was 
 painted, usually the person ordering it, and the year, the " Claudio 
 fecit" never wanting. By reference to this volume, the authenticity of 
 reputed Claudes may be tested: hence it is called "the Book of Truth:" 
 it is well known by Earlom's engravings. Upon the back of the first 
 drawing is inscribed, in Claude's own handwriting : 
 
 " Audi 10 dagosto 1677. Ce livre Aupartien a moy que je faict durant ma vie. 
 Claudio Gillee, dit le Loraine. A Roma ce 23 Acs. 1680." 
 
 Among the bibliographical rarities are "the Kemble Plays," and 
 other old English plays, the richest collection in the world, annotated by 
 the Duke of Devonshire ; also, a large collection of playbills ; early edi- 
 tions of Shakspeare ; designs, by Inigo Jones, for buildings, sketches 
 from pictures, costumes for characters in masques, scenery, &c. 
 
 DORCHESTER HOUSE (Mr. R. S. Holford), Park-lane, built by 
 Lewis Vulliamy, 1851-3 : a parallelogram, nearly as large as Bridge- 
 water House, faced with Portland-stone; the principal cornice and 
 frieze richly carved by C. H. Smith ; the chief projecting stones are each 
 8 feet 4 inches square; the external walls are 3 feet 10 inches thick. 
 The grand staircase is of marble. The mansion occupies the site of old 
 Dorchester House, in which died the Marquis of Hertford, 1842. 
 
 While this mansion was building, Mr. Holford's fine collection of pictures was 
 temporarily placed in the house No. 65 (formerly Sir Thomas Lawrence's) in F..US- 
 sell-square. The collection includes portraits by Velasquez, Vandyke, Dosso Dossi, 
 Bellini, S. del Piombo, Titian, and Tintoretto; two of the famous Caracci series : 
 (by Agostino and Ludovico), from the Giustiniani Palace; among the Dutch pic- j 
 tures is a long view of Dort, and a large Hobbema; here are exquisite small j 
 pictures by Murillo, Greuze, and others; and fine works by Teniers, Wouvermans, ] 
 Paul Potter, C. Du Jardin, W. Vandervelde ; Giorgione, Bonifazio, Fra Bartolo- 1 
 meo; Holy Family and Saints, by Andrea del Sarto; Holy Family and St. John, 
 by Gaudenzio di Ferrara; Evening, by Claude ; Rubens' masterly sketches of his ' 
 Entry of Henry IV. (Luxembourg); and the Assumption of the Virgin ( Antwerp). ; 
 The collection may be seen by recommendation of known artists or amateurs. 
 
 DOVER HOUSE (Lady Dover), "Whitehall, opposite the Banquetting 
 House, has a very tasteful and classical facade, and was built by Payne for 
 Sir Matthew Featherstonhaugh ; and has been the residence of Viscount J 
 Melbourne, and the Duke of York, for whom Holland added the domed 
 hall and picturesque Ionic portico. 
 
 DUDLEY HOUSE (Lord Ward), Park-lane, contains a fine collection 
 of 130 pictures, tracing the Italian and Flemish schools to their source. 
 
 Here are the Crucifixion, one of Raphael's earliest works, and the Last Judg- j 
 ment, by Fiesole, both from Cardinal Fesch's Gallery; small figures of Saints, by , 
 Raphael, in tempera; the Virgin and Child, and the Virgin, Infant Christ, and i 
 Joseph, by Francia; Sta. Caterina, by Lo Spagna: two figures of Saints, in pen- j 
 and-ink and tempera, by Perugino; Virgin and Child, enthroned, by A. Dasisi; j 
 altar-piece of Saints and Infant Christ, by Pierino del Vaga ; altar-piece, Adora- 
 tion of the Shepherds, by B. Peruzzi; the Death of Abel, by Guido ; Head of the 
 Magdalen, by Carlo Dolce; four Illuminations by Andrea Mantegna; Christ bear- , 
 ing his Cross, by L. Caracci; a seated Cardinal, by Guercino; curious specimens , 
 of the Venetian School, by Carlo Crivelli; two Colossal Heads, by Correggio. and < 
 a reputed replica of his Magdalen; the three Marys, and Dead Christ, by Albert 
 Durer; Celebration of the Mass, by Van Eyck ; St. Peter, by Spagnoletto; the .j 
 Burgomaster, by Rembrandt (half-length), from the Stowe Collection; the Mock- j 
 ing of Christ, by Teniers ; Landscape, by Gaspar Poussin ; Venetian View, very i 
 fine, by Canaletti; Shipwreck, by Vernet, &c. Here are also several pieces of 
 antique Sculpture; and a seated Venus, by Canova; and a duplicate of the Greek 
 Slave, by Hiram Powers. 
 
MANSIONS. 487 
 
 FORD, Mr. Richard (author of the excellent Handbook of Spain), 
 123 Park-street, Grosvenor-square, has some fine Spanish pictures; and 
 several classical examples of Richard Wilson. 
 
 GARYAGH, LORD, No. 26 Portman-square : here is Raphael's mas- 
 terpiece, the Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ, who is presenting 
 i pink to the youthful St. John. 
 
 GLOUCESTER HOUSE (Duchess of Gloucester), Piccadilly, corner of 
 Park-lane, was previously the Earl of Elgin's, and here were deposited 
 the Elgin Marbles. Lord Byron calls Elgin House " a stone-shop," and 
 
 " General mart 
 
 For all the mutilated blocks of art." E. Bards and S. Reviewers. 
 The Marbles were next removed to Burlington House, and to the 
 British Museum in 1816. Gloucester House was purchased by the late 
 Duke of Gloucester, on his marriage with the Princess Mary. In the 
 ate drawing-room is a needlework carpet, presented to the Duchess 
 Gloucester upon her birth-day, by 81 ladies of the aristocracy, each 
 ving worked a compartment. 
 
 GROSVENOR HOUSE (Marquis of Westminster), Upper Grosvenor- 
 reet, has a magnificent open stone colonnade or screen, Roman- 
 oric : it is 110 feet long, and has two carriage-ways, with pediments 
 ulptured with the Grosvenor arms, and panels of the four Seasons 
 >ove the foot-entrances; between the columns are massive cande- 
 bra, which, with the metal gates, are composed of demi-figures, rich 
 liage, fruit and flowers, and armorial designs. The whole screen is 
 cturesque and elegant, and was completed in 1842 by T. Cundy, the 
 'chitect of the western wing of the mansion (the Picture-gallery) in 
 ark-lane : the latter consists of a Corinthian colonnade, with six statues 
 nd an attic, after the manner of Trajan's Forum at Rome ; on the 
 roteria are vases and a balustrade, and between the columns are rich 
 jstoons of fruit and flowers ; the whole is grand and architectural. 
 
 Here is the celebrated '' Grosvenor Gallery," commenced by llich- 
 'd, first Earl Grosvenor, by the purchase of Mr. Agar's pictures for 
 ),000 guineas ; increased to 200 paintings, including : 
 
 Raphael, 5; Murillo, 3; Velasquez, 2; Titian, 3; Paul Veronese, 3; Guido, 5; 
 ilvator Rosa, 4; Claude, 10; N. and G. Poussin, 7; Rembrandt, 7; Rubens, 11; 
 andyke, 2 ; Hobbema, 2 ; Cuyp, 4 ; Snyders, 2 ; Teniers, 3; West, 5 ; Hogarth, 3; 
 ainsborough, 3; with specimens of Lebrun, Paul Potter, Gerard Douw, Van Huy- 
 .m, Vandervelde, Wouvermans, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Wilson; Perugino, Bel- 
 li, Giulio Romano, and Sasso Ferrato; Correggio, Parmegiano, L. da Vinci, &c. 
 Among the most celebrated are the four colossal pictures by Rubens, painted 
 Spain in 1629, the Israelites gathering Manna, Abraham and Melchisedek, 
 e Four Evangelists, and the Fathers of the Church, from the convent of 
 >eches, near Madrid, purchased for 10,0001. ; Cattle and Landscape, by Paul 
 otter, a miracle of art; Gentleman holding a Hawk, and Lady with a Fan, by 
 embrandt, two of the finest portraits ever painted; Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic 
 use, Sir Joshua Reynolds's masterpiece, cost 1760/. In the a te-room is a very 
 j-ge painting, by Canaletti, of a grand Bull -fight in St. Mark's Place, Venice, in 
 40, with many thousand figures. 
 
 I Among the rarities is a triptych panel-picture by Memmelinck, 15th century : 
 central compartment contains our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and St. John the 
 angelist; the volets, St. John the Baptist, and Mary, the sister of Martha and 
 zarus, with the pot of ointment: of most elaborate execution; bought by the 
 rquis of Westminster in 1845. 
 
 " No private gallery in this country exceeds the Grosvenor Gallery in point of 
 iety. The number of pictures in the Bridgewater collection is more than 
 able, the series more complete, and some of them exceed any here in value and 
 riety; but the fascination of the Claudes, the imposing splendour of the Ru- 
 ises, and the interest attached to a number of the English pictures (' Mrs. 
 'dons,' ' the Blue Boy,' and ' General Wolfe,' for instance), long contributed to 
 der the Grosvenor Gallery quite as popular as a resort for the mere amateur, 
 
488 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and not less attractive and improving to the student and enthusiast." Mrs. 
 Jameson's Private Galleries of Art. 
 
 Among the sculpture is Susanna, life-size, by Pozzi ; Cupid and 
 Psyche, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A.; a Faun (antique) ; and busts of 
 Mercury, Apollo, Homer, Paris and Helen, Charles I. and Cromwell, 
 &c. The vases are fine; and the superb plate includes antique salvers, ; 
 and a profusion of race-cups, won by the Marquis of Westminster's 
 celebrated stud. The pictures are to be seen only, on a specific day, i 
 by admissions obtainable by personal acquaintances of, or introduction I 
 to, Lord Westminster. 
 
 HARCOURT HOUSE (Duke of Portland), on the west side of Caven- ; 
 
 dish-square, originally built for Mr. Bingley, and altered from Archer's 
 design, is described by Ralph, in 1734, as " one of the most singular 
 
 pieces of architecture about town ; rather like a convent than the resi- ; 
 
 dence of a man of quality," resembling a copy of some of Poussin's land- j 
 
 scape ornaments : and so it remains to this day. The third Duke of j 
 Portland died here in 1809. 
 
 HERTFORD HOUSE (Marquis of Hertford), No. 105 Piccadilly, was j 
 
 formerly the Pulteney Hotel, where Alexander, Emperor of Russia, and | 
 
 his sister the Duchess of Oldenburg, sojourned in 1814. The original i 
 
 facade, rich Italian, was by Novosielski, with a Grecian- Doric porch j 
 added by Sir Robert Smirke. The mansion was designed for the Earl 
 
 of Barrymore, but was unfinished at his death ; was first let as an hotel, j 
 
 and then to the late Marquis of Hertford. It was taken down and re- < 
 
 built mostly with the same Portland stone, in 1851, when the house was j 
 
 heightened from 57 to 71 feet. The drawing-rooms have a vista of 114 ] 
 feet, and the picture-gallery 50 feet. 
 
 The collection contains chef-d'aeui-res from the gallery of the King of Holland: i 
 
 Water-mill, Hobbema; Holy Family, Rubens (cost 2478^.); Alchemist, Teniers; j 
 
 la Vierge de Fade, A. del Sarto; Vandyke, by himself; Oxen in a Meadow, Paul ] 
 
 Potter; several pictures by Cuvp ; the Annunciation, by Murillo ; Landscape with \ 
 
 Herdsman, Claude; his own Portrait, by Rembrandt; Christ giving the Keys to j 
 
 St. Peter. Rubens: and, from the Stowe collection, the Sibyl, by Domenichino; , 
 and the Unmerciful Servant, by Rembrandt. The Marquis also possesses a fine 
 collection of china, and costly objects of art and vertu. 
 
 HOLDERNESSE HOUSE (Marquis of Londonderry), No. 16 Park-lane, 
 contains a magnificent Sculpture-gallery, wherein are several works by 
 Canova and other great sculptors ; The'seus and the Minotaur, from the ' 
 Fries Gallery at Florence; the Kneeling Cupid, &c. ; full-length portraits 
 of British and Foreign Monarchs of the present century, by Sir Thomas 
 Lawrence ; life-size model of Thomas's Statue of Lord Castlereagh, the 
 celebrated minister, placed in Westminster Abbey ; and presented to 
 the same, a colossal Sevres Vase, by Louis XVIII., and a valuable dia- ' 
 mond-hilted sword ; besides cuirasses, helmets, and other trophies, cap- ' 
 tured by the soldier-Marquis in the Peninsular War. 
 
 HOPE HODSE (Mr. H. T. Hope), south-east corner of Down-street, 
 Piccadilly, was built in 1849, under the joint superintendence of M. Du- : 
 sillion, a French artist, and Professor Donaldson. The fronts are Caen 
 stone, and have panels of decorative marbles in the piers between the 
 windows ; the arrangement of which is novel, especially in the attic- 
 story. The total height from the street -level to the balustrade (sur- 
 mounted with superbly-carved vases) is 62 feet. The entrance-porch in 
 Down-street is very rich ; in the principal window-pediments are sculp- 
 tured the armorial bearings of Mr. Hope, repeated with the initial H 
 in the very handsome iron railing, cast by Andre in Paris. The details 
 throughout shew very careful and elegant drawing ; and the carving, 
 wholly by French artists, is beautifully executed. The grand staircase 
 
MANSIONS. 489 
 
 and hall occupy the centre of the building ; the upper hall is paved 
 with coloured marbles in patterns. The walls are plaster- of- Paris 
 polished, scagliola panels, and marble plinths ; the floors, fire-proof, are 
 of cast-iron girders and tile arches. The ceilings are paneled and en- 
 riched; the principal doors are of oak, carved with the initial H. in 
 shields; some of the chimney-pieces are of pierre-de-tonnerre, paneled 
 with French marbles ; others are of bronzed metal, with caryatid figures. 
 The kitchen department has a " lift" to each floor, speaking-tubes, c. ; 
 the mansion is lighted with gas, except in the drawing-rooms ; and 
 
 ihere is an apparatus for warming the vestibule, staircase, and passages. 
 The stables (for 12 horses) and coach-houses are in the rear of the 
 mansion. W. Cubitt and Co, builders; ornamental work (wainscot 
 
 oors, ceilings, stone carvings, mahogany casements) by French artists ; 
 'ost, exclusive of final decorations, 30,OOOZ. There are few pictures here, 
 
 >tr. Hope's collections having been removed to Deepdene, in Surrey. 
 Among the antiques are Sir W. Hamilton's second collection, made at 
 \aples. The mansion may be seen on Mondays, from April to July, by 
 sards obtainable by introduction to the owner. 
 
 The collection was formed at the celebrated mansion in Duchess-street, Port- 
 and-place, in the decoration of which the late Mr. Hope, the author of Anas- 
 asius, exemplified the classic principles illustrated in his large work on " House- 
 old Furniture and Internal Dei-orations," U05. Thus, the suite of apartments 
 ncluded the Egyptian or Black Room, with ornaments from scrolls of papyrus and 
 nummy-cases ; the furniture and ornaments were pale yellow and bluish-green, 
 elieved by masses of black and gold. The Blue or Indian Room, in costly Oriental 
 tyle. The Star Room : emblems of Night below ; and above, Aurora visiting Ce- 
 halus on Mount Ida, by Flaxman ; furniture, wreathed figures of the Hours. 
 "he Closet or Boudoir, hung with tent-like drapery; the mantel-piece an Egyp- 
 ian portico; Egyptian, Hindoo, and Chinese idols and curiosities. Picture Gal- 
 '.ry: Ionic columns, entablature, and pediment from the Temple of Erectheus at 
 .thens ; car of Apollo, classic tables, pedestals, &c. In four separate apartments 
 p ere arranged 200 Greek vases, including two copies of the Barberini or Port- 
 md Vase; the furniture partly from Pom| eian me dels. The New Gallery, for 
 00 pictures of the Flemish school, antique bronzes and vases; furniture of ele- 
 ant Grecian design. Mr. Hope died at Duchess-street in 1831 : he will ever be 
 pmembered for his taste and munificence as the early patron of Chantrey, Flax- 
 pan, Canova, and Thorwaldsen. 
 
 j LANSDOWNE HOUSE (Marquis of Lansdowne), which, with its gar- 
 en, occupies the south side of Berkeley-square, was commenced by 
 Lobert Adam for the Marquis of Bute, but was sold unfinished to Lord 
 helburne, created Marquis of Lansdowne in 1784. The purchase-money 
 fas 22,000/., but the mansion cost Lord Bute 25,0001. 
 
 The Marquis, in 1804, acknowledged the possession of thesecret of the author- 
 pip of Junius's Letters, which he promised to publish; but his lordship died in 
 ic following week. The "Letters" are believed by some to have been the joint 
 eduction of Lord Shelburne, Colonel Barre, and Dunning, Lord Ashburton ; 
 d their three portraits, painted in one picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds, in 1784-5, 
 ive been regarded as evidence of the joint authorship. Possibly, therefore, 
 mius's Letters were written in Lansdowne, then Shelburne, House. It is better 
 tablished that oxygen was discovered here, Aug. 1, 1774, by Dr. Priestley, then 
 irarian to Lord Shelburne. 
 
 The reception-room contains a fine collection of sculpture, including 
 i)otit fifty statues, as many busts, besides bassi relievi : it was com- 
 jenced by Gavin Hamilton, who first excavated the site of Adrian's 
 ilia. At the foot of the staircase is a noble statue of Diana launching 
 i arrow; in the great dining-room are nine antique statues in niches, 
 eluding Germanicus, Claudius, Trajan, and Cicero ; also the Sleeping 
 ymph, the last work of Canova ; in the front drawing-room his 
 enus quitting the Bath ; and a statue by Rauch, of Berlin, of a Child 
 !>lding an alms-dish. In the gallery, 100 feet in length, at the east 
 
490 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 end are life-size statues of Hercules, Marcus Aurelius, Mercury, Dio- 
 mede, Theseus, Juno, an Amazon, Juno standing, Hercules when a 
 youth, Jason, &c. ; and here are two Egyptian black marble statues, 
 found at Tivoli. On the sides of the gallery are the busts, reliefs, &c. j 
 The collection of pictures, formed by Lord Lansdowne since 1809, is famed for '; 
 its portraits, including Rembrandt holding a palette, by himself; a Lady (1642), j 
 Rembrandt; Velasquez, by himself ; Pope Innocent X., Velasquez; A. del Sarto, 
 by himself; a Gentleman, by Titian; Count Frederigo Bozzola, by Seb. del j 
 P'iombo ; Queen Henrietta-Maria, Vandyke ; Sauso vino, the Venetian architect, by } 
 Giorgione; a Cardinal and Andrea Doria, Tintoretto ; a Burgomaster and Lady in , 
 a Ruff, Rembrandt; Charles V. in his cradle, by Velasquez; Kitty Fisher and 
 Laurence Sterne, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Alexander Pope, Jervas ; Dr. Franklin, , 
 Gainsborough; Sir Humphry Davy, by Linnell; Francis Homer, Raeburn; 
 the Marquis of Lansdowne, by Sir Thomas Lawrence; Ladies Ilchester, Mary ; 
 Cole, and Elizabeth Fielding, by Reynolds; Peg Woffington, by Hogarth: Flax- ; 
 man the sculptor, by John Jackson, R.A. ; Sir Robert Walpole and his first ' 
 "Wife, Catherine Shorter, by Eckhart, (elaborate blacK and gold frame by Gibbons,) j 
 from the blue bed-chamber of Strawberry Hill. Also, here are twelve pictures by i 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, including the Strawberry Girl and the Sleeping Girl. 
 
 MANCHESTER HOUSE, Manchester-square, was commenced for the I 
 Duke of Manchester in 1776, but was not completed until 1788. At 
 the Duke's death, in 17 , the house became the residence of the Spanish i 
 Ambassador, who built the Roman Catholic chapel in Spanish-place, j 
 Manchester House was next the town mansion of the Marquis of Hert- 
 ford, a bon-vivant companion of the Prince Regent. The French Em- j 
 bassy was next located here ; with Talleyrand, Guizot, and Sebastian!, i 
 successive representatives. 
 
 MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, Pall Mall, was built by "Wren, in 1709-10, 
 for the great Duke of Marlborough, upon part of the site of the phea- ' 
 santry of St. James's Palace, and of the garden of Mr. Secretary Boyle, j 
 the latter taken out of St. James's Park. The ground was leased by i 
 Queen Anne to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who states the Duke ! 
 to have paid for the building between 40,OOOZ. and 50,000?., " though j 
 many people have been made to believe otherwise." The house is ' 
 a fine specimen of red brickwork, Wren being employed as archi- > 
 tect, to mortify Vanbrugh. The great Duke died here in 1722. The 
 Duchess loved to talk of "neighbour George," the King, at St. James's 
 Palace ; and here, Jan. 1, 1741, she received the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs, - 
 to thank her for a present of venison: "she received us," says Sheriff ] 
 Hoare, " in her usual manner, sitting up in her bed ; . . . . and after } 
 an hour's conversation upon indifferent matters, we retired." The \ 
 Duchess intended to have improved the entrance to the court-yard : an j 
 archway was opened in the wall, but was blocked up ; for her Grace 
 was frustrated by Sir Robert Walpole, who, to annoy her, bought the j 
 requisite houses 'in Pall Mall. The court-yard is dull, but the front 
 towards St. James's Park has a cheerful aspect, and a garden. The 
 vestibule is stately, and is painted with the battles of Hochstet and ( 
 Blenheim, and the'taking of Marshal Tallard prisoner ; upon the ceiling 
 are allegories of the Arts and Sciences. In 1817, Marlborough House ^ 
 was purchased by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte and Prince 
 Leopold; it was the Prince's town-house for several years; and after 
 the death of William IV. the residence of the Dowager-Queen Adelaide. 
 In 1850, the mansion was settled upon the Prince of Wales, on his 
 attaining his eighteenth year. In the meantime, the Vernon collection 
 of pictures, and others of the English school, have been removed to the 
 lower apartments of Marlborough House; and the upper rooms have 
 been granted to the Department of Practical Art, for a library, mu- 
 seum of manufactures, the ornamental casts of the School of Design, a 
 lecture-room, &c. Here was designed, in 1852, the Duke of Welling- 
 
MANSIONS. 491 
 
 on's Funeral Car, which was subsequently exhibited to the public in a 
 emporary building in the courtyard, 1853. 
 
 The Vernon Collection is open gratis on the first four days of each week, ex- 
 ept a month in autumn. Here are 162 pictures, 6 busts, and 1 group of figures 
 n marble, presented by Mr. Vernon; and other English pictures from the 
 National Gallery. Among the latter are 9 works by Reynolds; 6 by Hogarth 
 Marriage a la Mode) ; 2 by R. Wilson; 2 by Wilkie; and others by Lawrence, 
 Jainsborough, Constable, &c. The Vernon Collection comprises 11 works of 
 2tty, 9 of Calcott; 5 by Wilkie; 4 by R. Wilson; 7 by Landseer; 4 by Gains- 
 orough. Here are, Youth at the Prow, and Pleasure at the Helm, and the 
 Jathers, by W. Etty, R.A.; and William III. Landing at Torbay, a Landscape, 
 nd 2 Views in Venice, by J. M. W. Turner, R.A. An authenticated Catalogue, 
 rice Id., is sold in the vestibule. 
 
 George IV. (while Regent) proposed to connect Carlton House with Marl- 
 rough House and St. James's Palace by a gallery of the Portraits of the Sove- 
 igns and other historic personages ot England; but, unfortunately, Mr. Nash's 
 eculation of buying Carlton House and Gardens, and overlaying St. James's 
 ark with terraces, prevailed, and the design of a truly National Gallery was 
 ancloned: although the Crown of England possesses materials for an Historical 
 illection which would be infinitely superior to that of Versailles. 
 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE, Bloomsbury. (See MUSEUM, BRITISH.) 
 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE (Duke of Buccleuch), Whitehall, was built for 
 alph, third Lord Montague, created in 1689 Duke of Montague and 
 iscount Monthermer. It has a spacious marble floored and pillared 
 ill; and a large collection of full-length portraits of the Montagues 
 id their connexions, by Vandyke, Lely, and Reynolds ; sketches en 
 isaille by Vandyke ; a fine assemblage of English miniatures ; and 
 iew of Whitehall, by Canaletti. The furniture is in the old French 
 vie, richly carved and gilt ; and cabinets in buhl or ebony ; tables of 
 jarble, mosaic, or inlaid wood ; hangings of dark velvet, damask, or 
 tin. In the dining-room and library are portraits of the British 
 pool; a few Gainsboroughs and Wilsons in the boudoir; and both 
 rawing-rooms are hung with very fine old tapestry, representing hunt- 
 'g scenes in the forest of Fontainebleau. The mansion is screened 
 )m the street by trees and a garden ; and between it and the Thames 
 a terraced garden, with venerable trees, fountains, and statues, and 
 | open pavilion commanding a fine view of the Thames. 
 
 Montague House is one of the mansions built after the Court had abandoned 
 hitehall, when various noble families obtained leases of parts of the Privy 
 Irdens. The Dukes of Richmond for a hundred years occupied here a stately 
 : nsion surrounded with pleasure-grounds, on part of which is built Richmond- 
 irace. Pembroke House was erected under like circumstances ; between which 
 l the site of Richmond House stands the mansion inherited from the Montague 
 Jpily by the Duke of Buccleuch. 
 
 I MONTAGUE HOUSE, the elegant detached mansion at the north-west 
 fcle of Portman-square, was built for the celebrated Mrs. Elizabeth 
 |>ntague, who resided here many years ; and who annually, on the 1st 
 May, on the front lawn, regaled the chimney-sweepers of the metro- 
 I'.is, "so that they might enjoy one happy day in the year."* 
 MUNBO, Mr. H. A. J., No. 6 Hamilton-place, Piccadilly, possesses a fine 
 lection of pictures of the ancient foreign schools, including Raphael's 
 'f .a Vierge aux Candelabres," and " La Vierge a la Legende," formerly 
 i :he gallery of Charles I. ; a grand landscape by Claude ; St. Anthony 
 B ding the infant Saviour, by Murillo ; the Toilet of Venus, by A. 
 I racci ; Les Deux Petites Marquises, by A. Watteau. Among the 
 1 ?lish pictures are about a dozen of the finest landscapes and com- 
 I itions of J. M. W. Turner, R.A. ; and examples of Richard Wilson, 
 I lington, Etty, &c. 
 
 r There was a fourth Montague House, viz. the mansion built by Viscount 
 Hitague, or his son, upon part of the site of the priory of St. Mary Overey, in 
 Wthwark close, 1545 ; the precinct being named Montague close. 
 
492 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 NORFOLK HOUSE (Duke of Norfolk), No. 21 St. James's-square, occu- 
 pies the site of the residence of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans (tempi 
 Charles II.); the first tenant of the Norfolk family being the seventh 
 Duke, who died here 1701. The old mansion extended to the site of 
 Waterloo-place eastward: here King George III. was born, May 24, 
 1733 (O.S.); and Edward Augustus Duke of York, March 24, 1739: 
 the room still remains, with a ceiling painted by Sir James Thornhill; 
 and the state-bed is preserved at Worksop. The present Norfolk House 
 was commenced by Brettingham, in 1742, for Thomas Duke of Norfolk, 
 and completed for his brother Edward in 1762: the portico was added in 
 1842. The rooms are gorgeously carved and gilt in the Queen Anne 
 style, and contain a collection of pictures of the Italian, Spanish, and 
 Flemish schools ; and conspicuous among the plate displayed at state- 
 banquets, are the coronation-cups received in various reigns bv the 
 Dukes of Norfolk as hereditary Earls Marshal : here Queen Victoria 
 and Prince Albert were sumptuously entertained June 19, 1849. 
 
 In the old mansion are deposited the records of the Howard, Fitzalan, am 
 Mowbray families. Among the pictures is a portrait of the first Duke of Norfolk 
 by Holbein; shield presented to the chivalrous soldier-poet, Henry Howard, Ear' 
 of Surrey, at a tournament in 1537; the family of Thomas Earl of Arundel, wlul 
 collected the " Marbles;" ponrait of his wiff, by Rubens. 
 
 Here expired, Dec. 16, 1815, Charles, eleventh Duke of Norfolk : a few houri 
 before he died, by his desire, a servant was sent to a bookseller's in Pall Mall to: 
 procure Drelincourt's Book of Consolations against the Fear of Death, whicli 
 was read to the penitent Duke in his last moments. 
 
 NORMANTON, LORD, No. 3 Seamore-place, May Fair: here are som< 
 important pictures by Holbein ; Holy Family, "by Parmegiano ; anc 
 works of the English school. 
 
 NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE (Duke of Northumberland), Strand 
 occupies the site of the hospital of St. Mary Rounceval, founded tcmp\ 
 Henry III. ; its large conventual chapel reaching to the Thames in thn 
 Sutherland View of London, 1543. The present mansion was built 
 about 16(15, for Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, son of the poet 
 Lord Surrey. The architects were Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christ j 
 mas ; and it was then called Northampton House. The Earl of North- j 
 ampton died here in 1614, having bequeathed the mansion to his nephew] 
 Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, when the name was changed to SuffolU 
 House : a drawing by Hollar shews it to have been quadrangular it- 
 plan, with a lofty dome-crowned tower at each angle, in the Dutch] 
 style. It originally had three sides, the fourth remaining open to thf 
 gardens and the Thames; when the quadrangle was completed by the 
 addition of the state-rooms, attributed, but erroneously, to Inigo Jones ! 
 Since the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter of Theophilus, second Earlj 
 of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth Earl of Northumberland, it- 
 1642, the mansion has been called Northumberland House. In 166(. 
 General Monk was invited to this house by Earl Algernon; and here 
 with other leading men of the nation, he proposed and planned tbt 1 
 restoration of Charles II. On the death of Joscelyne Percy, the son ol< 
 Algernon, in 1670, without male issue, his only daughter, Elizabeth.' 
 became heiress of the Percy estates. She married, in 1682, Charier 
 Seymour, "the proud Duke of Somerset," who resided at Northumber- 
 land House in great state. On the death of the Duke in 1748, he was 
 succeeded by his eldest son, Algernon Earl of Hertford, and seventh 
 Duke of Somerset, created Earl of Northumberland in 1749, with re- 
 mainder, failing issue male, to his son-in-law, Sir Hugh Smithson, whc 
 assumed the name and arms of Percy, and was created Duke of North- 
 umberland in 1766, and was the grandfather of the present Duke, anc 
 his immediate predecessor. Of the old mansion, little more than tht 
 
MANSIONS. 493 
 
 central stone gateway, facing the Strand, remains ; this being part of 
 the original work of Gerard Christmas, and, with its characteristic 
 sculpture, a curious example of the Jacobean style. It is surmounted 
 by a lion passant, the crest of the Percys, cast in lead: it is inscribed 
 with the family motto, " Esperance en Dieu." Along the facade was a 
 border of capital letters, in place of the present ugly parapet : one of 
 ese letters (S) fell down at the funeral of Anne of Denmark, 1619, and 
 lied a spectator. The date 1749 denotes a year of repairs ; and the initials 
 . S. P. N., Algernon Somerset, Princeps Northumbrise. In 1766, great 
 rt of the northern front was rebuilt; as also after the fire in 1780, 
 hich consumed most of the upper rooms. The court-yard is of plain 
 alian character ; and the living apartments are the southern or garden 
 ie of the quadrangle. The glory of the interior is the double state-stair- 
 se, with marble steps; rich ormolu balustrade, chandelier, and lamps; 
 ;d carved marble podium. The principal drawing-room has medallions 
 ' Angelica Kauffman, and a Kaphaelesque ceiling. Beyond is a small 
 om hung with tapestry, designed by Zuccarelli, and worked in Soho- 
 uare, in 1758. The state-gallery, or ball-room, is 106 feet long, and 
 wide; it is gorgeously gilt with groups in relief, of eagles, boys, and 
 liage, and is decorated in compartments with paintings after the Ro- 
 an school; the chimney-pieces are supported by Phrygian captives in 
 irble : the noble room will accommodate 800 guests. Upon the walls 
 e admirable copies, original size, of the School of Athens, of Raphael, 
 ' Mengs; the Presentation, and Marriage of Cupid and Psyche, both 
 so after Raphael, by Pompeio Battoni; and copies of A. Caracci's 
 acchus and Ariadne, by Constansi; and Guido's Aurora, by Massaccio. 
 ere are two cabinets of marbles and gems, once the property of Louis 
 IV., and valued at 1000Z. each. In the centre is a Sevres china vase, 
 ne feet high, exquisitely painted with Diana and her Nymphs disarm- 
 Cupid. This was presented by Charles X. to Hugh, second Duke 
 Northumberland, when Ambassador to France. 
 
 The most important original picture in the Northumberland collection is the 
 
 rtrait-group of the " Cornaro Family" (Evelyn called it " y e Venetian Sena- 
 rs"), by Titian, which was bought by Algernon Earl of Northumberland, temp. 
 larles I. from Vandyke, for 1000 guineas. Among the other pictures are St. 
 
 bastian, bound on the ground, and two angels in the air, by Guercino, with 
 jures life-size; a small "Adoration of the Shepherds," by G. Bassano; "a 
 
 etty Girl with a Candle, before which she holds her hands, by G. Schalken, of 
 markable clearness, and good impasto" (Waagen); Alnwick Castle, and West- 
 
 inster Bridge, building and completed, by Canaletti; a curious portrait of Ed- 
 ard VI., with a long inscription, by Mabuse; a Fox-hunt and Deer-hunt, by F. 
 
 yders; Christ crowned with Thorns, by Caravaggio; portrait of Napoleon 
 
 icn First Consul, by Philips (a fine likeness); several family portraits, including 
 ercy, Earl of Northumberland, one of Vandyke's finest portraits. Also, carvings 
 
 ivory, after pictures by Teniers and others ; and sumptuous ormolu articles. 
 
 ie mansion can only be seen by special permission ; in the Great Exhibition 
 
 ason, 1851, the public were admitted by tickets, 10,000 a-week. 
 In the Strand front, west of the central gateway, by an ingenious contrivance, 
 
 portion of the wall is opened for the egress of carriages upon state-occasions. 
 Hugh, second duke, who died at Alnwick Castle, was interred from North- 
 mberland House, with great state, in Westminster Abbey, Feb. 22, 1847 ; the 
 meral pageant reaching from Charing Cross to the western door of the Abbey. 
 
 OVERSTONE, LORD, No. 22 Norfolk-street, Park-lane : a valuable 
 Election of Italian, Flemish, and Dutch masters, the latter including 
 camples from the cabinet of Baron Verstolk, at the Hague. 
 
 PEEL, LADY, No. 4 Pxivy Gardens, Whitehall: the mansion contains 
 portion of the choice collection of pictures formed by the late Sir 
 obert Peel; including Rubens's celebrated Chapeau de Paille, for 
 hich Sir Robert gave iSoOO guineas} also, 3 by Cuyp; 4 Coast-scenes 
 
494 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 by Collins; the Poulterer's Shop, by G. Douw ; 4 by Hobbema; 2 by* 
 Isaac Ostade; Landscape and Castle, by Paul Potter, 1G54; 2 by Ruys- 
 dael; 7 by D. Teniers; Genoese Senator and his Wife, by Vandyke; 4 
 by A. Vandervelde ; 7 by W. Vandervelde ; 6 by "NVouvermans ; 2 by 
 \Vynants. The Portraits, by Reynolds and Lawrence, have been re- 
 moved to Dravton Manor. In the dining-room of the above mansion 
 Sir Robert Peel was placed immediately after his fatal accident; and in 
 this room he expired. July 2, 1850. Between the doors hangs Wilkie's 
 fine picture of John Knox preaching. 
 
 RUTLAND HOUSE, No. 16 Arlington-street, Piccadilly: here, Jan. 5, 
 1827, died the Duke of York, second son of George III. 
 
 SFEXCER HOUSE (Earl Spencer), St. James's-place, was built by 
 Vardy, a pupil of Kent, for the first Earl Spencer, father of the col- 
 lector of the Bibliotheca Spenceriana. The mansion fronts the Green i 
 Park, and has a pediment, upon which are three graceful figures by, 
 Spong, a Danish sculptor. 
 
 STAFFORD HOUSE (Duke of Sutherland), on the west side of Stable-! 
 yard, St. James's Palace, occupies part of the site of the Queen's j 
 Library, built by Kent for Caroline, consort of George II.: in Pen-' 
 nant's time it was a lumber-room. The Stafford mansion was commenced; 
 in 1825, by B. Wyatt, for the Duke of York, second son of George III.; 
 who dying before the building was completed, the Crown lease was} 
 sold by Act 4 & 5 Viet. c. 27, to the first Duke of Sutherland, for; 
 72,OOOZ., subject to an annual ground-rent of 758?. The mansion isj 
 entirely of hewn stone ; the north front in Stable-yard has a Corinthian 
 portico of eight columns, beneath which is the entrance. The garden- , 
 fence is curiously made of slate. 
 
 The interior was planned by Barry, by whom were added the second 
 and third stories, the latter conceale'd by a balustrade. The grandest ' 
 feature is the hall, or tribune, and state-staircase, opening through all 
 the stories, and lighted by a lantern filled with engraved glass, and 
 supported by eighteen palm-trees; the ceiling contains Guercino'sj 
 celebrated apotheosis of St. Grisogno; and beside the fireplace are 
 Murillo's Prodigal Son's Return, and Abraham and the Angels, from 
 the Soult Gallery. The walls are imitative Giallo antico, divided by ' 
 white marble Corinthian columns and pilasters ; and in compartments 
 are copies, by Lorenzi, of Paul Veronese's colossal pictures. The 
 whole interior strikingly reminded Dr. Waagen of many of the pa- ' 
 laces of Genoa : it is a square of 80 feet, rising in the centre to 120, 
 the roof richly painted and gilt, the floor a sea of red and white marble; 
 and when lighted by scores of candelabra, the effect is truly gorgeous. 
 On the first landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl, by Ronaldi. Thence 
 two flights of stairs diverge upwards to a corridor, decorated with mar- 
 ble columns and balustrades, round three sides of the hall ; the fourth 
 being the gallery, 120 feet long, with a fretted gold roof, and lighted ' 
 by Roman candelabra in gilt-bronze; the walls are hung with paintings 
 of the Italian, Flemish, Spanish, and modern English schools. 
 
 Among the pictures in the gallery are, Vandyke's portrait of Thomas Howard, 
 Earl of Arundel; Morone's portrait of a Jesuit (Titian's Schoolmaster); Correg- 
 gio's Mule-driver, reputed to have been painted for a tavern-sign ; Christ before 
 Pilate, Honthorst's finest work, from the Lucca collection ; Christ at Emmaus, 
 by Paul Veronese; Christ bearirg his Cross, by Raphael; Don Francis Borgia 
 entering the Jesuits' College, several liie-size figures, by Velasquez; and three 
 works of Zurbaran, from the Soult collection: Lord Strafford on his way to the 
 Scaffold, receiving Laud's blessing, by Delaroche; and Winterhalter's portrait of 
 the Duchess of Sutherland. 
 The other three sides consist of eight state-rooms: three towards 
 
MARKETS. 495 
 
 the Green Park are drawing-rooms hung with Gobelin tapestry, de- 
 signed by Delaroche. Northward is the great dining-room, 70 feet by 
 30 feet, where is a statue of Ganymede, by Thorwaldsen; and on the 
 third side are two saloons hung with a long series of paintings of the 
 old Italian schools above the bookshelves. 
 
 In the dining-room, on the ground-floor, are assembled all the por- 
 traits of the Orleans Gallery : the royal and historical personages 
 during the reign of Louis XIV., the Orleans regency, the reign of 
 Louis XV., and the happy part of the life of Louis XVl. and Marie 
 Antoinette, The adjoining rooms are dedicated solely to modern 
 British art : including chef-d'ceuvres of "Reynolds, Lawrence, Opie, 
 Wilkie, Turner, Landseer, Calcott, &c. ; busts by Chantrey, and elegant 
 groups by Westmacott, senior and junior ; and in her Grace's drawing- 
 oom the chimney-piece supports are statues of her two lovely daugh- 
 ers, exquisitely sculptured by the younger Westmacott. Other marble 
 ihimney-pieces are adorned with small bronzes and elegant vessels, 
 ifter the antique ; busts, and bas-reliefs. 
 
 Among the pictures on the ground-floor are, Winterhalter's Scene from the 
 Decameron; a River Scene, by J. Van Goyen, his finest work; St. Justina and 
 t. Runna, half-lengths, by Murillo, very fine; the Marriage of St. Catherine, by 
 lubens; Festival before the Flood (17 figures), by W. Etty, R.A.; Scene from 
 he Spectator, by T. Stothard, R.A.; the Breakfast Table, by Wilkie, R.A.; Cas- 
 andra foretelling Hector's Death, by B. R. Haydon; the Passage of the Red Sea 
 >y the Israelites, by F. Danby, A.R.A. ; the Assuaging of the Waters, by John 
 tfartin; Death of the Virgin, by Albert Durer; Head of a Young Man, by Par- 
 megiano; Lady Gower (now Duchess of Sutherland) and her Daughter (now 
 )uchess of Argyle), by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; the Day after the Battle of Chevy 
 Chace, by E. Bird, R.A. Also a drawing, by Prince Albert, of his son, the Prince 
 f Wales ; and a life-size bronze statue of the Marquis of Stafford, by Feucheres. 
 Imong the historic memorials is a bronze cast taken from the face of Napoleon, 
 fter death. 
 
 The collection of pictures can only be seen by special invitation or 
 ermission of the family. 
 
 TOMLINE'S (Mr. G.), No. 1 Carlton- House-terrace, contains a few 
 rst-class pictures ; including the Pool of Bethesda, or Christ healing 
 Ihe Paralytic, by Murillo, purchased by Mr. Tomline from the Soult 
 pllection for 7500J. Here also is the picture of Christ and the Woman 
 f Samaria, by Annibal Caracci ; and the identical portrait of Charles V., 
 p paint which Titian journeyed to Bologna. 
 
 ] UXBRIDGE HOUSE (Marquis of Anglesey), Burlington Gardens, 
 uilt by Vardy in 1792, occupies the site of Queensbury House (Leoni, 
 architect, 1726), where died the poet Gay, Dec. 4, 1732. 
 
 MARKETS. 
 
 I Few of the Market-buildings of the metropolis are of tasteful design, 
 jich as we are accustomed to admire in the ancient and modern market- 
 laces of the continent. The early history and location of the London 
 Markets are, however, curious. 
 
 " Shall the large mutton smoke upon your boards? 
 Such Newgate's copious market best affords. 
 Wouldst thou wish mighty beef augment thy meal ? 
 Seek Leadenhall: St. James's sends thee veal ; 
 Thames-street gives cheeses, Covent Garden fruits; 
 Moorfields old books, and Monmouth-street old suits." 
 
 Gay's Trivia, book ii. 
 
 li BILLINGSGATE is described at pp. 45 and 46. It was once a landing- 
 I ace for other merchandise than fish: "1550. There came a sheppe of 
 Itges and shurtes and smockes oute of France to Byllyngesgatte." 
 I \>'rey Friars' Chron.) The Market has been rebuilt and enlarged, 1849- 
 
496 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 53, by the City architect, J. B. Banning: it has a river frontage of 
 Italian design, with a central clock and bell tower, and arcade of red 
 brick and Portland stone ; it is ventilated, supplied with water, cleansed, 
 and drained by Bessemer's centrifugal pumping machinery ; and a cast- 
 iron fountain discharges from rushes and dolphins water into a basin 
 15 feet in diameter, for the use of the market-people. 
 
 BOROUGH MARKET, Southwark, for provisions, occupies the site of 
 a mansion of the see of Rochester; and the ground is held of the Bishop 
 by the parish of St. Saviour, at an annual rent of 14/. 13*. 6d. 
 
 CLARE MARKET, at the south-west angle of Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 for butcher's-meat, fish, and vegetables, was built by William Holies, 
 Baron Houghton and Earl of Clare, in Clement's Inn Fields, about the 
 jear 1660, and was first called New Market. 
 
 The City and Lord Clare had a long lawsuit concerning this estate; the City 
 yielded; "and from the success of this noble lord, they have got several charters 
 for the erecting of several other markets since the year 1660 : as that of St. James, 
 by the Earl of St. Alban's ; Bloomsbury, by the Earl of Southampton ; Brook 
 Market, by the Lord Brook; Hungerford Market; Newport Market; besides the 
 Haymarket, New Charing-cross, and that at Petty France at Westminster, with 
 their Mayfair in the fields behind Piccadilly." H arl. MS. 5900. 
 
 Here was a chapel for the use of the butchers, whither Orator 
 Henley removed from Newport Market, and preached in a tub covered 
 with velvet and gold ; the altar being inscribed, " The Primitive Eucha-i 
 rist." Henley, "preacher at once, and zany of the age," lectured "at 
 the Oratory'* upon theology, "skits of the fashions," "the beau monde 
 from before Noah's flood," and "bobs at the times;" but straying into] 
 sedition, he was cited before the Privy Council, who dismissed him as an] 
 impudent fellow. He lectured here for nearly 20 years ; the adn.ission! 
 was 1*., and he had medals struck as tickets. In Gibbon's-court, Clare 
 Market, was a theatre, where Killigrew's company performed somej 
 time. " Nov. 20th, 1660. Mr. Shepley and I to the new playhouse 
 near Lincoln's Inn Fields (which was formerly Gibbon's Tennis- 
 court), where the play of * Beggar's Bush' was newly begun : . . it is 
 the finest playhouse, I believe, that ever was in England." (Pepys.)' 
 Its remains were long used as a carpenter's shop, slaughter-houses, &c. ; 
 
 Clare Market lying between the two great theatres, its butchers 
 were the arbiters of the galleries, the leaders of theatrical rows, the] 
 musicians at actresses' marriages, the chief.mourners at players' funerals. 
 In and around the market were the signs of the Sun ; the Bull and 
 Butcher, afterwards Spiller's Head ; the Grange ; the Bull's Head, 
 where met " the Shepherd and his Flock Club," and where Dr. Radcliffe 
 was carousing when he received news of the loss of his 5000Z. venture; 
 here is the Black Jack in Portsmouth-street, the haunt of Joe Miller, the .' 
 comedian, and where he uttered his time-honoured "Jests:" the house ' 
 remains, but the sign has disappeared. Miller died in 1738, and was bu- 
 ried in St. Clement's upper ground, in Portugal-street, where his grave- 
 stone was inscribed with the following epitaph, written by Stephen Duck : 
 " Here lie the remains of honest Joe Miller, who was a tender husband, 
 a sincere friend, a facetious companion, and an excellent comedian. 
 He departed this life the 15th day of August, 1738, aged 54 years. 
 
 " If humour, wit, and honesty could save 
 The humorous, witty, honest, from the grave, 
 This grave had not so soon its tenant found, 
 "With honesty, and wit, and humour crown'd. 
 Or could esteem and love preserve our health, 
 And guard us longer from the stroke of Death, 
 The stroke of Death on him had later fell, 
 "Whom all mankind esteem'd and loved so well." 
 
MARKETS. 497 
 
 The stone was restored by the parish grave-digger at the close of the 
 
 last century; and in 1816 a new stone was set up by Mr. Jarvis Buck, 
 
 churchwarden, who added " S. Duck" to the epitaph. At the Black 
 
 Jack (also called u the Jump," see page 393), a club known as "the 
 
 Honourable Society of Jackers" met until 1816. (See "Jo: Miller, a 
 
 biography," by W. H. Wills, prefixed to The Family Jo : Miller, 1848.) 
 
 At the old tavern, next Miller's burial-place, meet the " Noviomagians," 
 
 a club founded by the late A. J. Kempe, F.S.A., on the discovery of the 
 
 uins of Noviomagus (a Roman station at Old Croydon, or Woodcote, 
 
 Surrey) : the members are Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries, who 
 
 ine together once a month during the season. 
 
 CORN MARKET, Mark-lane. (See CORN EXCHANGE, page 282.) 
 
 COVENT-GARDEN MARKET was established towards the end of 
 
 Charles II.'s reign (see page 235), on the site of the garden of the 
 
 Convent at Westminster; and in Chamberlayne's Notitia, 1726, it is 
 
 jrinted Convent Garden. Strype describes it, in 1698, as held for 
 
 ruits, herbs, roots, and flowers/" beneath a small grotto of trees," on 
 
 ^uesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the present market-days. In 1704, 
 
 arhen Tavistock-row was built, the market-people were compelled to 
 
 issemble in the square, and here their stalls increased to dwellings. 
 
 Steele (Taller, No. 454, Aug. 11, 1712), in his boat-voyage from Richmond, 
 soon fell in with a fleet of gardeners, bound for the several market-ports of 
 London. * * It was very easy to observe by their sailing, and the countenances 
 )f the ruddy virgins who were supercargoes, the part of the town to which they 
 vere bound. There was an air in the purveyors for Covent Garden, who ire- 
 uently converse with morning rakes, very unlike the seeming sobriety of those 
 ound for Stocks Market. * * I landed, with ten sail of apricot boats, at Strand 
 Bridge, after having put in at Nine Elms and taken in melons, consigned by Mr. 
 uffe, of that place, to Sarah Sewell and Co., at their stall in Covent Garden." 
 
 Still the market was a strange assemblage of shed and penthouse, 
 ude stall and crazy tenement, coffee-house and gin-shop, intersected 
 
 Ly narrow and ill-lit footways, until the site was cleared for a new 
 loarket in 1829. The present market- buildings were designed by Fow- 
 
 Hr, and are perfectly fitted for their various uses ; evince considerable 
 rchitectural skill, and are so characteristic of the purpose for which the 
 harket has been erected, that it cannot be mistaken for any thing else 
 
 Nut what it is; unless the inscription, " JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, 
 jrected MDCCCXXX.," over the east end, lead posterity to regard this 
 s a patriotic act ; whereas the Bedford family derive a large rental 
 rom the market, stated at 5000Z. per annum. The area is 3 acres. The 
 ent of some of the shops is from 400J. to 500Z. per annum. 
 I Alack, how changed is Covent Garden ! " the convent becomes a 
 jlayhouse ; monks and nuns turn actors and actresses. The garden, for- 
 lal and quiet, where a salad was cut for a lady-abbess, and flowers 
 rere gathered to adorn images, becomes a market, noisy and full of 
 fe, distributing thousands of fruits and flowers to a social metropolis." 
 -W. S. Landor's Imaginary Conversations. 
 The plan consists of a quadrangle, with two exterior colonnades on 
 
 I he north and south sides, in front of shops; and in the central building 
 
 Ip "avenue" open to the roof, with shops on each side for forced 
 r tides, the choice fruits, vegetables, &c. At the east end is a quad- 
 japle colonnade, with a terrace over, and two large conservatories, a 
 andsome fountain of Devonshire marble, and an emblematical group 
 
 : |f figures on the pediment of a screen between the conservatories. At 
 lie west end is a colonnade with a conservatory over; and below is an 
 on projection of tasteful design, beneath which is held " the Flower 
 Carket." There are store-cellars almost throughout the area; and 
 later is supplied from an Artesian well sunk beneath the central path, 
 
 K K 
 
498 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 280 feet deep, and affording 1600 gallons per hour : it is distributed by 
 a steam-engine ; and the conservatories are heated by steam and hot 
 water. The buildings are of brick, with stone facings; the columns are 
 single pieces of Scotch and Devon granite: the colonnade terraces are 
 composed of large slabs of stone, resting upon hollow cast-iron beams, 
 into which is drained the water ; and these are supported upon iron and 
 stone columns. The whole is admirably built by Cubitt. 
 
 The supplies of fruit and vegetables sent to this market, in variety, 
 excellence, and quantity, surpass those of all other countries. There is 
 more certainty of being able to purchase a pine-apple here, every day 
 in the year, than in Jamaica and Calcutta, where pines are indigenous. 
 Forced asparagus, potatoes, sea-kale, rhubarb-stalks, mushrooms, French 
 beans, and early cucumbers, are to be had in January and February ; in 
 March, forced cherries, strawberries, and spring spinach ; in April, 
 grapes, peaches, and melons, with early peas; in May, all forced articles 
 in abundance. The supply of forced flowers, of greenhouse plants, and 
 in summer of hardy flowers and shrubs, is equally varied and abundant ; 
 and of curious herbs for domestic medicines, distilleries, &c., upwards 
 of 500 species may be procured at the shop of one herbalist. 
 
 Beneath the arcade, at the early market hour, are stationed hawkers of account- 
 books, dog-collars, whips, chains, curry-combs, pastry, money-bags, tissue-paper 
 for the tops of strawberry-pottles, and horse-chestnut leaves for garnishing fruit- 
 stalls; coffee-stalls, and stalls of pea-soup and pickled eels; basket-makers; women 
 making up nosegays ; and girls splitting huge bundles of water-cresses into little 
 bunches. Here are fruits and vegetables from all parts of the world : peas, and 
 asparagus, and new potatoes, from the south of France, Belgium, Holland, Por- 
 tugal, and the Bermudas, are brought in steam-vessels. Besides Deptfoid onions, 
 Battersea cabbages, Mortlake asparagus, Chelsea celery, and Charlton peas, im- 
 mense quantities are brought by railway from Cornwall and Devonshire, the Isle 
 of Man, Guernsey and Jersey, the Kentish and Essex banks of the Thames, the 
 banks of the Humber, the Mersey, the Orwell, the Trent, and the Ouse. The 
 Scilly Isles send early articles by steamer to Southampton, and thence to Covent 
 Garden by railway. Strawberries are sent from gardens about Bath. The money 
 paid annually for fruits and vegetables sold in this market is es:imated at three 
 millions sterling: for 6 or 700,000 pottles of strawberries ; 40,000,000 cabbages; 
 2,000,000 cauliflowers; 300,000 bushels of peas ; 750,000 lettuces; and 500,000 
 bushels of onions. In Centre-row, hothouse grapes are sold at 25s. per pound, 
 British Queen and Black Prince strawberries at 1*. per ounce, slender French 
 beans at 3*. per hundred, peas at a guinea a quart, and new potatoes at 4*. 6d. 
 per Ib. ; a moss rose for half-a-crown, and bouquets of flowers from one shilling 
 to two guineas each. (Household Words, No. 175.) Green peas have been sold 
 here at Christmas at 21. the quart, and asparagus and rhubarb at 15*. the bundle. 
 
 The foreign green-fruit trade of Covent Garden is very extensive in 
 pineapples, melons, cherries, apples and pears. The cheap West India 
 pineapple trade dates from 1844, when pines were first cried in the 
 streets " a penny a slice." Of the 250,000,000 oranges imported an- 
 nually into England, comparatively few are sold in Covent Garden. 
 
 Mr. Cuthill, the gardener, of Camberwell, states the ground under cultivation 
 for the supply of the London markets to be about 12,000 acres occupied by vege- 
 tables, and about 5000 by fruit-trees. These lie chiefly in Middlesex, Essex, Hert- 
 ford, and Bedford, north of the Thames, and Kent and Surrey south ; some S5,000 
 persons are employed on them. From distant counties are sent up the produce 
 of acres of turnip-tops, cabbages, and peas; while hundreds of acres in Cornwall 
 and Devon row early potatoes, brocoli, peas, &c., which reach London by railway. 
 
 The quantity of water-cresses annually sold in the principal wholesale markets 
 of London (above one-third of which are retailed in the streets) is as follows: 
 Covent Garden, 1,578,000 bunches; Farringdon, 12,9(50,000; Borough, 180.000; 
 Spi-.alfields, 180,000; Portman, 60,000 ; total, 14,958,000. The amount realised by 
 the sale is 13,Sj49/. Henry Mayhew's London Labour. 
 
 FARRINGDON MARKET, between the west end of Shoe-lane and 
 Farringdon-street, covers \\ acres of ground, and was built by William 
 Montague, the City architect ; it was opened in 1829, on the removal of 
 
MARKETS. 499 
 
 Fleet Market. It is well placed for drainage, parallel with Holborn- 
 hill; the site and buildings (including a clock-tower of Italian design) 
 3ost about 250,OOOJ. ; but the Market is little frequented. 
 
 HUNGERFORD MARKET, West Strand, occupies the site of a market- 
 3lace built in 1680 by Sir Edward Hungerford, from his town-house and 
 grounds, extending to the Thames. In 1685, Sir Stephen Fox and Sir 
 Christopher Wren were proprietors of the market-estate; in the centre 
 vvas a lofty hall, with a bust of one of the Hungerfords, and an inscrip- 
 ,ion stating the market-place to have been erected " utilitati publicce ;" 
 but Strype, in 1720, describes it as " baulk'd at first," and turned to 
 ittle account. The old hall and a colonnade remained until 1830, when 
 he present buildings, adapted from a Roman market, were commenced 
 or a Company by Fowler, architect of Covent-Garden Market. The 
 |Iungerford buildings consist of two quadrangles, with stone Tuscan 
 jiolumns, and a large central hall ; with a handsome river front, a tho- 
 oughfare to the suspension-bridge. Here is the great focus of the 
 pper Thames steam-navigation, where are a million of embarcations 
 nd landings annually. The estate comprises about 3J acres ; the 
 jwer quadrangle is the fish-market, and the upper for vegetables, 
 ruit, meat, &c. The market was publicly opened July 2, 1833; but 
 as been alike unprofitable with the original Hungerford scheme. The 
 irge exhibition-hall and bazaar-gallery beneath were built in 1851 ; 
 hen M. Bouton produced here his dioramas of Fribourg and Venice. 
 
 LEADENHALL MARKET, Gracechurch-street, which is described at 
 age 453, is now the great poultry and game market, where 4,000,000 
 rds, &c. have been sold in one year. In 1533 the beef sold here was 
 ot to exceed a halfpenny a pound, and mutton a halfpenny half-farthing. 
 
 In severe winters here are large supplies of wild dacks, principally from Hol- 
 .nd; woodcocks, &c. ; snipes from Ireland; pigeons from France; rabbits from 
 stend; blackcocks from Scotland. " Sometimes, after a grand battue, there is a 
 'ut of hares and pheasants in Leadenhall Market." (Macculloch.) The returns 
 r poultry, game, and rabbits in one year equal half a million of money. A few 
 bars since Ostend rabbits were hardly saleable in London; now, from 50 to 100 
 jins are imported weekly by steamers, and 1000 persons are employed in this 
 iibbit trade. On Christmas Eve here are displayed 100,000 geese and turkeys, 
 tcluding importations from France, Belgium, Holland, and Ireland. Here, also, 
 a market for live animals, fancy dogs and rabbits, cage-birds, &c. 
 
 | NEWOATE MARKET, between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street, 
 'as formerly kept in the latter street, and was a market for meal. 
 1 1548. This yere before Alhalloutyd was sett up the howse for the 
 iiarkyt folke in Newgate Market for to waye melle in." (Grey Friars' 
 "hron.) It is now the great Meat Market. In the old College of 
 hysicians, Warwick-lane, is held another meat-market. 
 
 Butcher-Hall lane (now King Edward-street), Newgate-street, was originally 
 jimed from the great number of butchers living here; and there is extant a pe- 
 tion to Parliament, dated 1380, praying that they might be restrained from 
 jirowmg the blood and entrails of slaughtered animals into the river Fleet, and 
 iat they might be compelled to " kill" at " Knyghtsbrigg," or elsewhere out of 
 jondon ; and this seems to have been done for several reigns. 
 I The markets of Newgate and Leadenhall are places disgraceful to any large 
 jty at the present day. They are in fact great slaughtering places as well as 
 jarkets; in which the cattle are killed and flayed in dark, confined, and filthy 
 |;llars, in some of which from fifty to a hundred sheep together will be confined 
 i the closest possible space, until the working bu'chers shall have successively 
 jjspatched the whole of them. Proceedings of the Statistical Society, 1847. 
 j In the time of the Commonwealth, when the Established Church had 
 st its authority, banns of marriage were published on market-days in 
 ewgate Market ; and the couples were afterwards married " at the 
 lace of meeting called the church" Register of St. Andrew's. 
 
500 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 NEWPORT MARKET, Soho, named from the town-house of the Earl 
 of Newport in the neighbourhood, is a meat-market, with its butchers, 
 slaughtermen, and drovers. Here Orator Henley held his mock preach- 
 ing. The father of John Home Tooke was a poulterer in Newport 
 market, as he told his schoolfellows, " a Turkey merchant." 
 
 OXFORD MARKET, north of Oxford-street, was built for Edward, 
 Earl of Oxford, in 1731. Barry, the painter, who lived in Castle-street, 
 describes it as " the most classic London market that of Oxford." 
 
 SMITHFIELD, or West Smithfield (so called to distinguish it from 
 East Smithfield, east of Tower Hill), is the only "live" market, and the 
 oldest in the metropolis. The name signifies a smooth plain ; ' smith' 
 being corrupted from the Saxon smeth, smooth. Fitzstephen calls it 
 " a certain plain field (planus campus), both in reality and name, 
 situated without one of the City gates, even in the very suburbs :" 
 horses and cattle were sold here in 1150, horse-racing was common, 
 and the horse-market is to this day called " Smithfield races." The 
 original extent of Smithfield was about three acres; the market-place 
 was paved, drained, and railed in, 1685; subsequently enlarged to 
 4 acres, and since 1834 to 65 acres. Yet this enlargement proved 
 disproportionate to the requirements : in 1731 there were only 8304 
 head of cattle sold in Smithfield; in 1846,210,757 head of cattle, and 
 1,518,510 sheep. This over-crowding has led to dreadful cruelties to 
 the poor animals by drovers and others; whilst the market is sur- 
 rounded by slaughter-houses and knackers' yards, tallow-melting, bone- 
 boiling, tripe-washing, and other offensive trades ; and over-peopled and 
 ill-drained alleys, yards, and lanes, a pestilential nuisance to the City, 
 producing to the Corporation by its tolls less than 4COO/. per annum. 
 The old City laws for its regulation are called the " statiites of Smith- 
 field." Here may be shewn 4000 beasts and about 30,000 sheep, the 
 latter in 1509 pens : and there are 50 pens for pigs. The market-days 
 are, Monday and Friday for cattle and sheep ; Tuesday, Thursday, and 
 Saturday for hav and straw ; Friday for calves and milch cows, and from 
 two o'clock till'dusk for horses and asses, mules, dogs, and goats : the 
 horses sold are mostly spavined, lame, and blind, and are bought up by 
 the knackers ; here is a market for old harness, barrows, costermongers' 
 carts, donkeys, and donkey-carts. Altogether, Smithfield is the largest 
 live market in the world, and its sales amount to 7,000,OOOZ. annually. 
 
 " It was market morning. The ground -was covered nearly ankle-deep with 
 filth and mire; and a thick steam perpetually rising from the reeking bodies of 
 the cattle, and mingling with the fog, which seemed to rest upon the chimney- 
 tops, hung heavily above. All the pens in the centre of the large area, and as 
 many temporary ones as could be crowded into the vacant space, were filled with 
 sheep; and tied up to posts by the gutter-side were long lines of beasts and oxen 
 three or four deep. Countrymen, butchers, drovers, hawkers, l;oys, thieves, 
 idlers, and vagabonds of every low grade, were mingled together in a cense mass: 
 the whistling of drovers, the barking of dosis, the bellowing and plunging of 
 beasts, the bleating of sheep, and grunting and squeaking of pigs; the cries of 
 hawkers, the shouts, oaths, and quarrelling on all sides, the ringing of bells, and 
 the roar of voices that issued from every public-house ; the crowding, pushing, 
 driving, beating, whooping, and jelling: the hideous and discordant din that 
 rej-oumied from every corner of the market; and the unwashed, unshaven, 
 squalid, and oirty figures constantly running to and fro, and bursting in and ont 
 of the throng, rendered it a stunning and bewildering scene which quite confused 
 the senses." Charles 1'ickens's Oliver Twist. 
 
 The market, with its attendant nuisances of knackers' yards, tainted 
 sausage- makers, slaughter-houses, tripe-dressers, cat's-meat boilers, 
 catgut-spinners, bone-houses, and other noxious trades, in the very 
 heart of London, was, however, in 1852, condemned by law to be re- 
 moved into Copenhagen Fields, Islington. (See also SMITHFIELD.) 
 
MARTIN'S (ST.), LANE. 501 
 
 STOCKS MARKET, for fish and flesh, was established in 1282, on the 
 site of the present Mansion House, and was named from a pair of stocks 
 placed there for punishing offenders. After the Great Fire it became 
 a fine market for fruit, roots, and herbs, " surpassing all the other fruit- 
 markets in London" (Strype) : " where is such a garden in Europe as the 
 Stocks Market ?" (Shadwell, 1689.) At the north end was the Conduit ; 
 and the equestrian statue of John Sobieski, set up by Sir Robert Viner, 
 with a new head, as Charles II.; and removed for the Mansion House site 
 in 1779. A few dealers in costly fruit kept shops hard by until our time. 
 
 STREET MARKETS. The phantasmagoria of London presents few 
 more striking lights than in its street markets, mostly held in great 
 thoroughfares by costermongers, those wandering stall -keepers, who 
 I sell about the town fish, fruit, and vegetables, in donkey-carts, hand- 
 barrows, baskets, and trays. 
 
 " The scene in these parts has more of the character of a fair than of a market. 
 There are hundreds of stalls, and every stall has its one or two lights ; either it is 
 illuminated by the intense white light of the new self-generating gas-lamp, or else 
 it is brightened up by the red smoky flame of the old-fashioned grease-lamps. 
 One man shews off his yellow haddock with a candle stuck in a bundle of firewood; 
 lis neighbour makes his candlestick of a huge turnip, and the tallow gutters over 
 its sides ; while the boy shouting ' E-eight a penny, pears !' has rolled his dip in 
 ii thick coat of brown paper, that flares away with the candle. Some stalls are 
 primson with a fire shining through the holes beneath the baked-chestnut stove; 
 lathers have handsome octohedral lamps ; while a few have a candle shining through 
 i sieve. These, with the sparkling ground-glass globes of the tea-dealers' shops, 
 md the butchers' gas-lights streaming and fluttering in the wind like flags of 
 lame, pour forth such a flood of light, that, at a distance, the atmosphere imme- 
 Iliately above the spot is as lurid as if the street was on fire." Henry Mayhew. 
 
 MARTIN'S (ST.), LANE, 
 
 jExtending northward from Charing Cross and the east side of Tra- 
 falgar-square, to the junction of Long Acre with Cranbourn-street, 
 Appears in Aggas's plan (early in Elizabeth's reign) as a green lane, 
 with only a few houses beyond St. Martin's Church, abutting into 
 povent Garden, which extended into Drury-lane. St. Martin's-lane 
 Vas mostly built about 1613, and was first named "West Church- lane." 
 \ few of the houses are spacious and have noble staircases, those on the 
 jvest side being the largest ; some exteriors on the east side are good spe- 
 jimens of brickwork. Among the early tenants was Sir Theodore May- 
 Irne, physician to James I. ; Daniel Mytens, the painter ; Sir John Suck- 
 ling, the poet. Sir Hugh Platt, the most ingenious husbandman of his 
 |ge, had a garden in St. Martin's-lane in 1606. Ho well sends a maiden 
 lopy of his poem " to Sir Kenelm Digby, at his house in St. Martin's- 
 iine," in 1641. (Familiar Letters, 5th edit. 1678, p. 393.) Here also 
 |ived the great Earl of Shaftesbury ; Dr. Tenison, when vicar of St. 
 llartin's; and Ambrose Philips, the Whig poet. Here too dwelt, 
 jearly opposite May's-buildings, Sir Joshua Reynolds, when he first 
 ame to London ; Sir James Thornhill, who, at the back of his house, 
 |stablished an artists' school, from which arose the Royal Academy ; 
 jloubiliac, who commenced practice in St. Peter's-court, a favourite 
 aunt of artists; Fuseli, at No. 100 (first floor and staircase good). 
 )ld Slaughter's Coffee-house was once the great evening resort of 
 rtists, and Hogarth was a constant visitor. At No. 101 was built and 
 xhibited the Apollonicon (see page 16). No. 112 was the picture 
 remises of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, the eminent English dealer in 
 rt, who died in 1853, leaving a valuable collection of the Italian, Ger- 
 an, and Flemish old masters : among the English pictures was Ho- 
 arth's Midnight Modern Conversation, painted for Rich, of Covent 
 rarden Theatre. No. 31 has a classically decorated exterior, in the style 
 
502 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Inigo Jones, and is engraved in Hakewill's Architecture of the Seven- 
 teenth Century, 185-3. The first floor has an enriched ceiling. 
 
 A labyrinth of courts and alleys about St. Martin's church was 
 removed in 1829 : including the Bermudas, Carribbee or Cribbee 
 Islands ; and Porridge Island, noted for its cook-shops. Another knot, 
 on the west side of St. Martin's-lane, was cleared away for Trafalgar- 
 square, including Duke's-court, where lived Roger Payne, the cele- 
 brated bookbinder (died 1797): his chef-d'ceuvre, ^Eschylus, in Lord 
 Spencers library, cost fifteen guineas binding. 
 
 MARTIN'S (ST.) LE GRAND, 
 
 A College founded by Withred King of Kent, in 700, and rebuilt 
 and endowed about 1056 by the Saxon brothers Ingelric and Girard, 
 was dedicated to St. Martin, to which was added le Grand, from its 
 privileges, granted by monarchs who occasionally resided here. The 
 church and collegiate buildings covered the insulated ground now oc- 
 cupied by the General Post-Office; and the Sutherland View, 1543, 
 shews the lofty spire and tower, wherein curfew was rung. Among 
 the deans was William of Wykeham, who rebuilt the church : the ad- 
 vowsons were given by Henry VII. to the Abbots of Westminster. 
 St. Martin's-le-Grand was a noted Sanctuary; and after the demolition 
 of the College, the site was built upon and occupied by non-freemen, 
 to avoid the City jurisdiction. French, Germans, Dutch, and Scotch 
 abounded here ; their trades being shoemakers, tailors, makers of bat- 
 tons and button-moulds, goldsmiths, &c.; and h^re are said to have first 
 settled in England silk-throwsters. Among its counterfeit finery was 
 its copper "St. Martin's-lace." Each trade had its quarter; hence 
 Mould-makers'-row, removed in our time; and Shoemakers'-row, now 
 the west side of St Martin's-le-Grand; while Dean's, Bell, and Angel 
 alleys denote the old ecclesiastical locality. In 1818, when the site was 
 cleared for the Post-Office, a crypt by 'William of Wykeham was de- 
 stroyed. (See CRYPTS, page 243.) Lower down were found remains of 
 the Roman times: coins, beads, glass, and pottery; amphora), Samian 
 ware, funereal urns, lachrymatories, &c. : denoting this to have been an 
 important site of Roman London. (See Kempe's St. Martin 's-le- Grand.) 
 
 Among the distinguished residents of Mdersgate-street, in a line with St. 
 Martin's-le-Grand, was Mr., afterwards Sir William. Watson; at whose house, in 
 1746, were exhibited the effects of the Leyden phiils, then newly invented : and 
 here the Duke of Cumberland, recently returned from Scotland, took the shock 
 with the point of the sword with which he had fought the battle of Culloden. 
 The Gold-headed Cane, p. 115. 
 
 In St. Martin's-le-Grand was the Taborer's Inn, of the time of Edward II. ; 
 and the Crown Tavern, at the end of Duck-lane, which, in 1 T09, had a noble 
 room painted with classical subjects. Between Aldersgate and St. Anne's-lane 
 end, was the Mourning Bush; the owner having painted black his carve;! sign 
 (a bush), after the beheading of Charles I. : its vaulted cellars, with regular 
 courses of Roman brick, form the foundation of the present New Post-office Coffee 
 House. Adjoining these massive remains runs a portion of the City \\all. 
 
 MARYLEBONE, 
 
 A manor of the hundred of Ossulston, in Middlesex, and the largest 
 parish of London (more than twice the extent of the City, and popu- 
 lation greater), was, at the commencement of the last century, a small 
 village, about a mile N. w. from the nearest part of the metropolis. It 
 was originally called Tyburn, or Tybourne, from its being on the 
 bourne, or brook, which runs from Hampstead into the Thames ; and 
 its church being dedicated to St. Mary, the parish was named St. Mary- 
 at-the-bourne, Mary-le-bone, or Marybone. In a record of Henry VIII. 
 
MARYLEBONE. 503 
 
 it is called Tyborne, alias Maryborne, alias Marybourne (Lysons). It 
 extends northward to Primrose Hill, west to Kilburn turnpike, and 
 south to Oxford-street, inclusive : it is &J miles in circumference, and 
 contains about 1700 acres of land; of which, till about 1760, two-thirds 
 were chiefly pasture-fields. 
 
 The Manor of Tybourn, valued at 52 shillings in Domesday -book, 
 and in K. Edward's'time at 100 shillings, was exchanged by the then 
 lord, in 1544, with Henry VIII. for certain church lands; it was leased 
 by Queen Elizabeth, in 1583 and 1595, at the yearly rent of 16?. Us. 8d. ; 
 in 1611 it was sold by James I. (excepting the park) for 829?. 3*. 4rf. ; 
 in 1710 it was sold for 17,500?., the rental being then 900?. per annum ; 
 and about 1813 the manor passed from the second Duke of Portland to 
 the Crown, by an exchange of land valued at 40,000?. The manor-house 
 was taken down in 1791. (See page 393) 
 
 Marylebone Park was a hunting-ground in the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth : in 1600 the ambassadors from Russia and their retinue 
 rode through the City to hunt in Marylebone Park; and here Sir 
 , Charles Blount (afterwards Earl of Devonshire), one of the challengers 
 in the Field of Cloth-of-Gold, had a tilt with the Earl of Essex, and 
 wounded him. The park, reserved by James I., was assigned by 
 Charles I. as a security for debt; but was sold by Cromwell for 
 i 13,215?. 6*. 8d., including deer, and timber, except that marked for the 
 navy. At the Restoration the park was re-assigned, till the debt was 
 discharged. The site had been previously disparked, and was never 
 afterwards stocked ; but was let on leases, upon the expiry of which 
 !the ground was relaid out, by Nash, and named the Regent's Park. 
 
 Bowling-greens were also among the celebrities of Marylebone : 
 (where, says the grave John Locke (Diary, 1679), a curious stranger 
 j" may see several persons of quality bowling, two or three times a-week, 
 jail the summer." The bowling-green of the Rose Tavern and gaming- 
 house in High-street is referred to in Lady Mary Wortley Montague's 
 memorable line (see page 8); and it is one of the scenes of Capt. Mac- 
 Iheath's debaucheries, in Gay's Beggar's Opera. This and an adjoining 
 jbowling-green were incorporated in Marylebone Gardens, open gratis 
 jto all classes ; but the company becoming more select, one shilling 
 .entrance-money was charged, an equivalent being allowed in viands. 
 |Here were given balls and concerts ; and Handel's music was played, 
 under Dr. Arne's direction, followed by fireworks, and in 1772, a niodel- 
 Ipicture of Mount Etna in eruption. Burlettas from Shakspeare were 
 jrecited in the theatre here in 1774; and in 1776 was exhibited a repre- 
 sentation of the Boulevards at Paris, Egyptian Pyramids, &c. : but the 
 Igardens were suppressed in 1777-8, and the site was let to builders. 
 
 A deed of assignment made by Thomas Lowe, the singer, conveying his pro- 
 perty in Marylebone Gardens, to trustees, for the benefit of his creditors, in 1769, 
 jwas in the possession of the late Mr. Sampson Hodgkinson, who was familiar 
 with the parochial history of Marylebone. From this deed we learn that the 
 Demises of Rysbrack, the statuary, were formerly part of the Great ( Marylebone) 
 Garden. (See Smith's St. Marylebone, 1833.) 
 
 Prize-fighting was a pastime of this period, and Marylebone a place 
 which " to learn valour" (Beggar's Opera). Here was the boarded 
 house of Figg, "the Atlas of the Sword," whose portrait is in the second 
 plate of Hogarth's Rake's Progress. Near Figg's was Broughton's 
 Amphitheatre, often crowded with amateurs of high rank. (See page 8.) 
 In the Evening Post, March 16, 1715. we find : " On Wednesday 
 last, four gentlemen were robbed and stripped in the fields between 
 London and Mary-le-bon." 
 
 Between 1718 and 1729 was built the north side of Tyburn-road, 
 now Oxford-street ; and the squares and streets northward were then 
 
504 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 commenced : still, much of the ground between the new buildings and 
 the village of Marylebone was pasture-fields; and Maitland, in his 
 History of London, 1739, states there to have been then only f>77 houses 
 in the parish, and 35 persons who kept coaches. In 1795 there were 
 6200 houses; in 1851, 16,669 houses. 
 
 In 1841 the Vestry of St. Marylebone accepted tenders from certain contractors 
 to the amount of 4150/. lor permission to cart away the ashes (breeze) from the 
 several houses in this vast parish. 
 
 Marylebone is a parliamentary borough, containing the three parishes 
 of St. Marylebone, Paddington,*and St. Pancras. 
 
 (See CHURCHES, St. Marylebone, p. 142; and ALMSHOUSES, p. 6.) 
 
 MAY FAIR, 
 
 The district north of Piccadilly, and between Park lane and Berkeley- 
 square, was originally Brooktield ; but received its present name from a 
 fair being held there* by grant of James II., after the suppression of St. 
 James's Fair, to commence on May 1, and continue 15 days, where mul- 
 titudes of the booths were "not for trade and merchandize, but for 
 musick, showes, drinking, gaming, raffling, lotteries, stage-plays, and 
 drolls." It was frequented " by all the nobility in town ;" but was sup- 
 pressed in 1708, when the downfal of May Fair quite sunk the price of 
 Pinkethman's tame elephant, and sent his ingenious company of 
 strollers to Greenwich. (See Tatler, Nos. 4 and 20.) The fair was, 
 however, revived ; and John Carter describes its " booths for jugglers; 
 prize-fighters, both at cudgels and back-sword ; boxing-matches, and 
 wild beasts. The sports not under cover were mountebanks, fire- 
 eaters, ass-racing, sausage-tables, dice ditto, up-and-downs, merry-go- 
 rounds, bull-baiting, grinning for a hat, running for a shift, hasty- 
 pudding-eaters, eel-divers," &c. The site of the Fair is nc\v occupied 
 by Hertford-street, Curzon-street, Shepherd's Market, &c. ; but the old 
 wooden public-house, " The Dog and Duck," with its willow-shaded 
 pond for duck-hunting, is remembered : at fair-time, the second story 
 of the market-house was let for the playhouse. The Fair was not finally 
 abolished until late in the reign of George III. In Curzon-street was 
 "the Rev. Alexander Keith's Chapel," with an entrance like a country 
 church-porch, where marriages at a minute's notice were almost as 
 notorious as at the Fleet 6000 in one year. The chapel was much fre- 
 quented during May Fair : here the Duke of Kingston was married to 
 Miss Chudleigh ; the Baroness Clinton to the Hon. Mr. Shirley ; and 
 James, fourth Duke of Hamilton, in 1752, to the youngest of the two 
 beautiful Miss Gunnings, with a bed-curtain ring, half an hour after 
 midnight. The registers of the May -Fair marriages, in three folio vo- 
 lumes, closely and clearly written, are kept with the parish-books of 
 St. George's, Hanover-square. Keith's charge was one guinea, with a 
 license on a five-shilling stamp and certificate. 
 
 MEWS, ROYAL. 
 
 Upon the site of the National Gallery, on the north side of Charing 
 Cross, when falconry was a royal pastime, were kept the king's hawks, 
 in a building called the Mews. In 1319 (13 Edward II.) John De la 
 Becke had the custody of the King's Mews (" de mutis apud Charryng 
 juxta West monasterium" ). In the reign of Richard II., Sir Simon Bur- 
 ley was Keeper of the King's Falcons; and Chaucer was Clerk of the 
 King's Works, and of the Mews at Charing. In 1534, the royal stables 
 at Lomsbery (since Bloomsbury) were burnt; after which the hawks 
 were removed from Charing Cross, and the premises rebuilt for the 
 stabling of the king's horses, in the reigns of Edward VI. and Queen 
 
MINORIES (THE). 505 
 
 Mary ; the building retaining the name of Mews, and public stables 
 assuming the same Here Colonel Joyce was imprisoned by order of 
 
 I Oliver Cromwell ; being carried away' by musqueteers and put into the 
 Dutch prison, and removed thence to another chamber in the Mews. It 
 
 j was a gamblers' resort : Gay, in his Trivia, says of " careful observers" : 
 
 "Untempted, they contemn the juggler's feats, 
 Pass by the Meuse, nor try the thimble's cheats." 
 
 In 1732 the faade was rebuilt from the design of Kent, with three 
 stone cupolas. Mac Owen Swiney was made Keeper of the Mews; he 
 had been manager of Drury Lane and the Queen's Theatres, and died 
 in 1754, leaving his fortune to Peg Woffington. At the Mews were 
 kept the royal stud, the gilt state-coach, and the other royal carnages, 
 until their removal to the new Mews at Pimlico, in 1824. The building 
 at Charing Cross was occupied, in 1828, as the exhibition-rooms of the 
 National Repository, and by Cross's Menagerie from Exeter Change; 
 and here were temporarily housed a portion of the Public Records. 
 The premises were taken down in 1830, for the site of the National 
 Gallery. The last of the original Mews was occupied as a barrack : 
 it was built of red Tudor brick, with buttresses, and crenellated ; 
 stone window-cases and dressings. 
 
 I At the Mews-gate lived for more than 40 years "honest Tom Payne" (d. 
 1799), the bookseller; whose little shop, in the shape of an L., was the first named 
 a literary coffee-house, from its knot of literary frequenters. 
 
 THE QUEEN'S MEWS, at the rear of Buckingham Palace, Queen's- 
 row, Pimlico, was built in 1824, and consists of two quadrangles, en- 
 peredby a Doric arch way beneath a clock-tower. Visitors are admitted 
 y a ticket from the Master of the Horse. In the first quadrangle are 
 he coach-houses, and in the second the horses. Here are usually 40 car- 
 iages. besides Her Majesty's state-coach : the dress-carriages are fine 
 pecimens of coach-building. The horses include road-teams, saddle- 
 orses, and hacks; and the dun and black Hanoverian state-horses (gene- 
 ally from 12 to 14 of each) for the state-coach ; and here are usually 
 ept the foreign horses presented to the sovereign, In the harness-room 
 s the red morocco state-harness for eight horses, with massive silver- 
 jilt furniture, the harness for each horse weighing 1 cwt. ; besides the 
 jurple morocco state-harness made when George IV. was Regent. 
 
 The Mews Clock lias stone dials (6 feet 10 inches in diameter), with the figures 
 unk (as in the Egyptian monuments), and a sunk centre for the hour-hand to 
 raverse, so as to bring the minute-hand close to the figures, and thus avoid 
 tearly all error from parallax an improvement by Vulliamy. 
 
 The Riding-House belonged to Buckingham House: here, in 1771, were pub- 
 icly exhibited the Qupen's elephants, from one of which Lindley Murray, the 
 rammarian, had a narrow escape. 
 
 ROYAL MEWS, Prince's-street, "Westminster, was built by Decimus 
 Burton, upon a space formerly occupied by a nursery of 200 trees, 
 lanted upon the site of the markets and narrow streets on the north 
 ide of Westminster Abbey, and removed between 1804 and 1808. At 
 his Mews are kept the carriages and horses of official personages; and 
 ere may be seen the Speaker's state-coach. (See SXATE-COACHES.) 
 
 MINORIES (THE), 
 
 eading from Aldgate High-street to Tower-hill, is named from the 
 Sorores Minores," " Minoresses," or nuns of the order of St. Clare, 
 unded 1293, whose convent stood in this street : upon its site, on 
 le east side, is built the church of the Holy Trinity. The parish was 
 >rmerly the convent close, and is without the walls of London, al- 
 ^gh in the Liberty of the Tower of London; therefore its inhabit- 
 
506 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ants have no vote in the Common Council. In Haydon-square is a 
 spring of pure water, which was the convent fountain ; and here lived 
 Sir Isaac Newton when warden and master-worker of the Mint : the 
 house was taken down in 1852. On May 24, 1853, during excavations 
 on the west side of Haydon-square, was found a stone sarcophagus of 
 the late Roman period, sculptured with a basket of fruit, a medallic 
 bust, and foliage, and containing a leaden coffin with the remains of a 
 child : the sarcophagus is now in the British Museum. In the Minories 
 neighbourhood have been found sculptured sepulchral stones and urns, 
 and a third brass coin of Valens. In the churchyard are deposited 
 some bones taken from the field of Culloden in" 1745; and in the 
 church is preserved a head, though from what body is unknown. 
 
 The parish of Holy Trinity is minutely described in the Archceo- 
 logia,in 1803, by the Rev. Dr. Fly, F.S.A., 63 years incumbent of the 
 parish ; and the account was reprinted in 1851 "(with additions), by the 
 Rev. T. Hill, incumbent. After the dissolution of the convent, there 
 were built here " storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with 
 divers work-houses serving to the same purpose" (Stow) : 
 
 " The Mulcibers who in the Minories sweat." Congreve. 
 
 The street has been noted for its gunsmiths to our time: and in 1816 
 their shops were plundered by the Spa Fields rioters on their way to 
 "summon the Tower!" From the Minories station the Blackwail 
 Railway crosses the street by an unsightly enclosed viaduct. 
 
 MINT (THE BOYAL), 
 
 London, has been the chief seat of the Mint from the remotest pe- 
 riod. Some of the Roman emperors are presumed to have coined 
 money here; but "the silver penny of Alfred," says Ruding, "is the 
 first authentic coin yet discovered which can with certainty be appro- 
 priated to the London Mint." The Mint in the Tower dates from the 
 erection of that fortress ; and it has been worked in almost every reign 
 from the Conquest to our own times. The Mint buildings "houses, 
 mills, and engines" used for coining were between the outer and inner 
 ward or ballium, thence named Mint-street, 
 
 In the 35th Henry lit. the warden's salary was 2s. a-day. The con- 
 stitution of superior officers, established in the reign of Ed ward II., con- 
 tinued with few alterations until 1815. In 1287,600 Jews were confined 
 within the Tower at one time for clipping and adulterating the coin of 
 the realm. In 1546, one William Foxley, a pot-maker for the Mint, fell 
 asleep in the Tower, and could not be waked for fourteen days and fif- 
 teen nights. Some of the Mint officers are buried in the church of St. 
 Peter in the Tower, the chaplain and rector of which, by grant of Ed- 
 ward III., received 10*. from the clerk of the Mint, 13*. 4d. from the 
 master of the Mint, and Id. per week from the wages of each workman 
 and teller of coins. 
 
 Lully, the alchemist, worked "in the chamber of St. Katherine" in 
 the Tower, and was believed to supply the Mint with gold ; and Ed- 
 ward III., Henry VI , and Edward IV. had faith in being able by 
 alchemy to furnish the Mint with cheap gold and silver. 
 
 In the reign of Edward III. the masters of the Mint were em- 
 powered by letters patent to take goldsmiths, smiths, and others, for 
 the works of the Mint in the Tower; and to imprison any rebellious 
 within the said Tower, until the king should determine their punish- 
 ment; and this power was not discontinued in the reign of Elizabeth. 
 
 Before the Reformation, ecclesiastics were sometimes comptrollers: 
 " Should we,"' says Latimer, " have ministers of the Church to be comp- 
 
MINT (THE ROYAL). 507 
 
 trollers of the Mint? .... I would fain know who comptrolleth the 
 devil at home at his parish, while he comptrolleth the Mint ?" (Sermon, 
 1548.) During the re-casting of the corrupt coin in the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, the queen publicly coined at the Tower several pieces with her 
 own hand, and distributed them among her suite. 
 
 In 1695, Mr., afterwards Sir Isaac Newton, was appointed warden 
 of the Mint; and in 1699 he was promoted to the mastership, which 
 post he held until his death : his mathematical and chemical know- 
 ledge was of great service in this office; he wrote an official report 
 on the coinage, and drew up a table of assays of foreign coins. Newton 
 lived some time in Haydon-square, Minories. In 1851 were sold several 
 Mint Curiosities, once possessed by Stanesby Alchorne, king's assay- 
 master: including the standard troy pound, determined by the Mint 
 officers in 1758; also Crocker's Register-book of Drawings for Medals, 
 certified by officers of the Mint, and containing thirty autographs of 
 Sir Isaac Newton, purchased by the British Museum. 
 
 The establishment formerly consisted of a master and worker, deputy master, 
 comptroller, king's assay-master, king's clerk, and superintendent of machinery 
 and dies ; the master assayer, probationer assayer, weigher and teller, surveyor of 
 meltings, surveyor of money-presses, chief and second engraver, medallist, &c. ; 
 besides the company of moneyers, who had coined the public money from a very 
 early period, with exclusive corporate rights. The office of warden was abolished 
 in 1817. A new constitution was introduced in 1815, and was changed in 1851 : 
 it is now vested in the master and his deputy, subject to the Treasury. The 
 mastership was formerly a political office: it wast last so filled by Richard Lalor 
 Shiel; in 1851 was appointed the present master and worker, Sir John F. W. Her- 
 schel, Bart., the astronomer; a worthy successor to the office once filled by 
 the illustrious Newton. The operative branch of the Mint consists of the 
 assayer, the melter, and refiner. The moneyers have been abolished, and Go- 
 vernment now coins for the public on its own account, the master being the 
 executive head of the establishment. 
 
 The present Mint, upon Little Tower-hill, is a handsome stone 
 structure of mixed Grecian and Roman architecture, commenced by Mr. 
 Johnson, and completed by Sir Robert Smirke, between 1806 and 1811 : 
 the cost, including the machinery, was a quarter of a million of money. 
 It was formerly supplied with water through a tunnel from the Tower 
 ditch, and it was one of the earliest public offices lighted with gas. 
 Upon the site was " sometime a monastery, called New Abbey, founded 
 by King Edward III. in 1359" (Stow). After the Suppression, was 
 built here the Victualling Office, subsequently tobacco-warehouses. 
 
 At the Mint is executed the coinage of the three kingdoms, and of 
 many of our colonies; and such is the completeness of the steam ma- 
 chinery by Boulton and Watt, Mnudslay and Co., and John and George 
 Rennie, that fifty thousand pounds worth of gold received one morning 
 in bullion may be returned the next in coin, strangely contrasting with 
 the old method of striking every piece by hand, and carrying- on the 
 whole process in a single room. The present stupendous machinery 
 is unequalled in the mint of any other country. The furnaces have long 
 been supplied with smoke-consuming apparatus. The gold and silver 
 being alloyed, are cast into small bars, are passed through powerful 
 rollers, and by the draw-bench brought to the exact thickness required. 
 The circular disks or blanks are then punched out of the sheets of 
 metal by other machines; and are then separately weighed, sounded, 
 have the protecting rim raised, and are blanched and annealed. The 
 blanks are then taken to the coining-room, and placed in the screw- 
 presses, each of which by the same stroke stamps on both sides, and 
 mills at the edge, thus making a perfect coin : each press will coin be- 
 tween four and five thousand pieces per hour, and feeds itself with the 
 blanks. For the dies a matrix is cut by the Mint engraver in soft steel, 
 
508 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 which being hardened furnishes many dies. The newly-coined money 
 is now ready for the Trial of the Pix, when one of each coin is placed 
 in a pix or casket, sealed with three seals, and secured with three locks; 
 and the coins are then compared with the trial-plates at "Westminster 
 (see page 99) by a jury from the Goldsmiths' Company, the Lord 
 Chancellor, or the Chancellor of the Exchequer, presiding. The early 
 matrices, and the collection of coins and medals, at the Mint, are among 
 its Curiosities. 
 
 The fallowing are the best Mint engravers from the reign of Charles I. to the 
 present time : Briot, Simon, Rawlins, Roettier (3), Croker or Crocker, Tanner, 
 Dassier, Yeo, Natter, Pingo (2), Pistrucci, and the Wyons (3) 
 
 Applications to view the Mint must be made in writing to the Master or 
 Deputy-master; the party of visitors not to exceed six, for whom the applicant 
 is responsible : the order available only for the day specified, and not transferable. 
 
 MINT (THE), SOUTHWARK, 
 
 A large section of the parish of St. George the Martyr, a, id so 
 called from " a mint of coinage" having been kept here by Henry VIII. 
 It was originally named Suffolk Manor ; and opposite St. George's 
 church, upon the site of the premises of Messrs. Pigeon, the distillers, 
 was Suffolk Place, the magnificent mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke 
 of Suffolk, brother-in-law of Henry VIII. This house the duke gave to 
 the king in exchange for a palace of the Bishop of Norwich in the 
 parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields: it was then called Southwark Place 
 and Duke's Place. In the Sutherland View of London, 1543, it is shewn 
 as "ye Mint." 
 
 In the fourth year of Edward VI. (1550) Sir Edward Peckham, Knight, was 
 appointed high-treasurer, and Sir John Yorke under-treasurer, of this Mint; and 
 in 1551 were issued crowns, half-crowns, shillings, and sixpences, with the mint- 
 mark Y for Sir John Yorke. 
 
 In 1549 Edward VI. came from Hampton Court to visit the Mint, when 
 it was spoken of as " the capital messuage, gardens, and park in South- 
 wark." Southwark had also its Saxon and Norman Mint, A.D. 978 to 
 1135 ; and coins of Ethelred II., Canute, Harold, Edward the Confessor, 
 "William I. and II., Henry I. and Stephen, with the Southwark mint- 
 mark, are known to collectors. The old Saxon spelling of Southwark 
 was ZVDIrlDERE, Svthgwere ; and on Saxon coins we find it abbre- 
 viated ZVD, ZVDLS ZVDLE, ZVDrrEll). With the reign of Stephen 
 ceased the power of coining money, granted by the Tower Mint to smaller 
 mints near London, as Southwark, Stepney, &c. The site of the original 
 Mint in Southwark is unknown ; but it was, probably, within the ancient 
 town of Southwark (now the Guildable Manor), which extended only 
 from St. Mary Overie's Dock, by St. Saviour's Church, to Hays-lane, 
 and southward to the back of the present Town Hall. It is conjectured 
 that the Saxon Mint may have been attached to the original Town Hall, 
 nearly opposite the church of St. Olave; or, the Southwark Mint may 
 have 'been under the direction of the early bishops of Winchester, at or 
 near their manor of the Clink, and who may have been moneyers here, 
 as well as at the Winchester Mint. Of Henry, Bishop of Winton, and 
 the illegitimate brother of King Stephen, there exists a silver penny 
 (the only specimen known), which was bought at the Pembroke sale 
 for 20J. 10*., and is now in the British Museum. We cannot suppose 
 the original Southwark Mint to have occupied the site of the Mint in 
 St. George's parish, which was not within the ancient town, and was 
 not " the King's Manor'' until after Henry VIII. had obtained it from 
 Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 Queen Mary gave the Mint property to Nicholas Heath, Arch- 
 bishop of York) in recompense for "York "House, Whitehall, which had 
 
MONUMENT (THE). 509 
 
 been taken from Cardinal Wolsey by Henry VIII. Archbishop Heath 
 sold the Mint in 1557, when a great number of mean dwellings were 
 erected upon the estate; but the mansion was not entirely taken down, 
 or it must have been rebuilt, before 1637, when Alderman Bromfield, 
 Lord Mayor of London, resided at Suffolk Place, which he possessed 
 until 1650. 
 
 The Mint is described by Strype as consisting of several streets and 
 alleys ; the chief entrance being from opposite St. George's church by 
 Mint-street, "running into Lombart-street, thence into Suffolk-street, 
 and so into George street ;" each entrance having its gate. It became 
 early an asylum for debtors, coiners, and vagabonds; and of the "traitors, 
 felons, fugitives, outlaws, condemned persons, convict persons, felons 
 defamed, those put in exigent of outlawry, felons of themselves, and 
 such as refuse the law of the land," who in the time of Edward VI. 
 herded in St. George's parish. The Mint at length became such a pest, 
 that statutes 8 & 9 William III., and 9 & 11 Geo. L, ordered the aboli- 
 tion of its privileges. One of these statutes (9 Geo. I. 1723) relieved all 
 those debtors under 501. who had taken sanctuary in the Mint from 
 their creditors ; and the Weekly Journal of Saturday, July 20, 1723, 
 thus describes their exodus : 
 
 "On Tuesday last, some thousands of the Minters went out of the land of 
 bondage, alias the Mint, to be cleared at the quarter sessions at Guildford, accord- 
 ing to tne late act of parliament. The road was covered with them, insomuch 
 that they looked like one of the Jewish tribes going out of Egypt ; the cavalcade 
 consisting of caravans, carts, and wagons, besides numbers on horses, asses, and 
 on foot. The drawer of the two fighting-cocks was seen to lead an ass loaded with 
 geneva, to support the spirits of the ladies upon the journey. 'Tis said that 
 several heathen bailiffs lay in ambuscade in ditches upon the road, to surprise 
 some of them, if possible, on their march, it they should straggle from the main 
 body ; but they proceeded with so much order and discipline, that they did not 
 lose a man upon this expedition." 
 
 The Mint was the retreat of poor poets : 
 
 " Then from the Mint walks forth the man of rhyme." Pope. 
 And one of the offences with which Pope reproached his needy antagonists 
 was their " habitation in the Mint." " Poor Nahum Tate" (once poet 
 laureate) died in the Mint in 1715, where he had sought shelter from 
 his rapacious creditors. The place is a scene of Gay's Beggar's 
 Opera; and " Mat of the Mint" figures in Macheath's gang. It was 
 also one of the haunts of Jack Sheppard ; and Jonathan Wild kept 
 his horses at the Duke's Head in Red Cross-street, within the 
 precincts of the Mint. Illicit marriages were also performed here, 
 as in the Fleet Prison, May Fair Chapel, &c. Officers of justice 
 sent here to serve processes were commonly pumped upon almost to 
 suffocation, and even thrown into " the Black Ditch of mud and 
 filth. Here is said to have occurred the first case of Asiatic cholera in 
 London in 1832. Much of the district still consists of streets and alleys, 
 of wretched tenements inhabited by an indigent and profligate popula- 
 tion ; also " lodgings for travellers :" few of the old houses remain. 
 
 MONUMENT (THE), 
 
 On the east side of Fish-Street-hill, occupies part of the site of St. 
 Margaret's Church, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It was 
 erected by Sir Christopher Wren, between 1671 and 1677 (pursuant 
 to 19 Charles II. c. 3, s. 29), to commemorate the Great Fire and 
 rebuilding of the City : the expense was about 14,500?., defrayed out of 
 the Orphans' Fund. The Monument is of the Italo-Vitruvian-Doric 
 order, and is of Portland stone, of which it contains 21,126 solid feet. 
 It consists of a pedestal about 21 feet square, with a plinth 27 feet, and 
 
510 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a fluted shaft 15 feet at the base ; on the abacus is a balconv encompass- 
 ing a moulded cylinder, which supports a flaming vase of gilt bronze, 
 indicative of its commemoration of the Great Fire ; though some repudi- 
 ating Roman-Catholics assert this termination to be intended for the civic 
 cap of maintenance ! Defoe quaintly describes the Monument as " built 
 in the form of a candle," the top making "a handsome gilt flame like 
 that of a candle." Its entire height is 202 feet, stated in one of the 
 inscriptions to be equal to its distance eastward from the house where 
 the fire broke out, at the king's baker's, in Pudding-lane. 
 
 On the front of the house, on the east side of Pudding-lane, was a stone with 
 this inscription : " Here, by the Permission of Heaven, Hell broke loose upon 
 this Protestant City.from the malicious Hearts of barbarous Papists, by the Hand 
 of their agent Hubert, who confessed, and on the Ruins of this Place declared the 
 Fact, for which he was hanged, viz. That here begun that dreadful Fire which is 
 described and perpetuated on and by the Neighbouring Pillar. Erected Anno 1681, 
 in the Mayoralty of Sir Patience Ward, Kt."Hatton, 1708. 
 
 The Monument is loftier than the pillars of Trajan and Antoninus 
 at Rome, or that of Theodosius at Constantinople ; and it is not only 
 the loftiest, bat also the finest isolated, column in the world. Within 
 is a staircase of 345 black marble steps, opening to the balcony, whence 
 the view of the metropolis, especially of its Port, is very interesting. 
 It was at first used by the members of the Royal Society for astrono- 
 mical purposes, but was abandoned on account of its vibration be- 
 ing too great for the nicety required in their observations. Hence the 
 report that the Monument is unsafe, which has been revived in our 
 time; " but," says Elmes, "its scientific construction may bid defiance 
 to the attacks of all but earthquakes for centuries to come." Wren 
 proposed a more characteristic pillar, with flames blazing from the loop- 
 holes of the shaft, and figured in brass-work gilt ; a phoenix was on the 
 top rising from her ashes, in brass-gilt likewise. This, however, was 
 rejected; and Wren then designed a statue of Charles II., 15 feet high ;* 
 but the king preferred a large ball of metal, gilt ; and the present'vase 
 of flames, 42 feet high, was adopted : when last triply regilt, it cost 120?. 
 On June 15, 1825, the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, in 
 commemoration of the laying of the first stone of London Bridge : a lamp 
 was placed at each of the loopholes of the column, to give the idea of 
 its being wreathed with flame ; whilst two other series were placed 
 on the edges of the gallery, to which the public were admitted during 
 the evening. The west face or front of the pedestal is rudely sculp- 
 tured by Caius Gabriel Cibber, in alto and bas-relief: Charles II., be- 
 wigged and be-Romanised, is attended by Liberty, Genius, and Science; 
 in the background are labourers at work and newly-built houses ; and 
 at the king's feet is Envy peering from an arched cell, and blowing 
 flames to rekindle the mischief. The scaffolding, ladders, and hodmen 
 are more admired for their fidelity than the monarch and his architect. 
 The north and south sides bear Latin inscriptions by Dr. Thomas Gab, 
 afterwards Dean of York ; that on the north recording the desolation 
 of the city ; the south its restoration and improvement, and the means 
 employed; while the east is inscribed with the years in which it was 
 begun and finished, and the names of the Lord Mayors during its erec- 
 
 * A large print of the Monument represents the statue of Charles so placed, 
 for comparative effect, beside a sectional view of the apex, as constructed. Wren's 
 autograph report on the designs lor the summit were added to the MSS. in the 
 British Mu*eum in 1852. A model, scale inch to the foot, of the scaffolding 
 used in building the Monument, is preserved. It formerly belonged to Sir William 
 Chambers, and was presented by Heathcote Russell, C.E., to the late Sir Isam- 
 bart Brunei, who left it to his son. Mr. I. K. Brunei: the ladders were of the 
 rude construction of Wren's time, two uprights, with nailed treads or rounds on 
 the face. 
 
MOORFIELDS. 511 
 
 i tion. Around the base of the pedestal was also the following inscrip- 
 ; tion, beginning at the west : 
 
 (W.)"THIS PILLAR WAS SET VP IN PERFETVALL REMEMBRANCE OP THAT 
 
 MOST DREADFUL BURNING OF THIS PROTESTANT (S.) CITY, BEGUN AND CARRYED 
 
 i ON BY Y K TREACHERY AND MALICE OF Y K POPISH FACTIO, IN Y- BEGINNING OF 
 
 SEPTEM IN Y B YEAR OF (E.) OUR LORD 1666, IN ORDER TO Y CARRYING ON 
 
 i THEIR HORRID PLOTT FOll EXTIRPATING (N.) TH K PROTESTANT RELIGION AND 
 
 ; OLD ENGLISH LIBERTY, AND THE INTRODUCING POPERY AND SLAVERY." 
 
 And the north inscription concluded with : 
 
 "SED FUROR PAPISTICUS ftVI TAMDIRA PATRAVIT NONDUM RESTINGV1TVR." 
 
 These offensive legends are not mentioned by Wren, but were added 
 in 1681, by order of the Court of Aldermen, amid the horror of the 
 i Papists spread by the Titus Gates plot. They were obliterated in the 
 I reign of James II., but recut deeper still in the reign of William III., 
 > and excited Pope's indignant couplet : 
 
 "Where London's column, pointing at the skies, 
 Like a tall buliy, lifts the head and lies." 
 
 The legends were ultimately erased (by an Act of Common Council) Jan. 
 26, 1831. On the cap of the pedestal, at the angles, are four dragons, the 
 supporters of the City arms : these cost 200/., and were the work of 
 Edward Pierce, jun. Six persons have committed suicide by throwing 
 themselves from the Monument gallery : 1. John Cradock, a baker, July 
 7, 1788 ; 2. Lyon Levi, a Jew diamond-merchant, Jan. 18, 1810 ; 3. same 
 year, Leander, a baker ; 4. Margaret Moves, daughter of a baker in Hem- 
 inge's-row, Sept. 11, 1839; 5. Hawes/a boy, Oct. 18, 1839; 6. Jane 
 j Cooper, a servant-girl, Aug. 19, 1842. To prevent similar deaths, the 
 i gallery has been encaged with iron-work, as we now see it. William 
 ! Green, a weaver, is erroneously recorded as a suicide, June 25, 1750 ; 
 for, in reaching over the railing, to look at a live eagle kept there in 
 a wooden cage, he accidentally lost his balance, and fell over against 
 the top of the pedestal, thence into the street, and was dashed to pieces. 
 The fall is exactly 175 feet. In 1732, a sailor slid down a rope from 
 (the gallery to the Three-Tuns Tavern, Gracechurch-street ; as did also, 
 next day, a waterman's boy. In the Times newspaper of August 22, 
 1827, there appeared the following burlesque advertisement : 
 
 " Incredible as it may appear, a person will attend at the Monument, and will, 
 jforthe sum of 25CO/., undertake to JUMP clear off the said Monument, and in 
 ! coming down will drink some beer and eat a cake, act some trades, shorten and 
 make sail, and bring ship safe to anchor. As soon as the sum stated is collected, 
 Ithe performance wiJl take place ; and if not performed, the money subscribed to 
 ibe returned to the subscribers." 
 
 Admittance to the gallery of the Monument from 9 till dusk ; charge 
 Ireduced, in 1851, from 6d. to 3d. each person. In the reign of George 
 |l. the charge was 2d. 
 
 MOORFIELDS 
 
 jls first mentioned by Fitzstephen (temp. Henry II.) as "the great 
 |fen or moor which watereth the walls of the City on the north side," 
 and stretched "from the wall betwixt Bishopsgate and Cripplesgate to 
 Fensbury and to Holy well" (Stow). When the moor was frozen, Fitz- 
 jstephen tells us the young Londoners, by placing the leg-bones of ani- 
 mals under their feet, and tying them round their ankles, by aid of an 
 iiron-shod pole, pushed themselves with great velocity along the ice; 
 and one of these bone-skates, found in digging Moorfields, is in the Mu- 
 seum of Mr. C. Roach Smith, F.S.A., 5 Liverpool-street. In the reign 
 bf Edward II., Moorfields was let for four marks a-year ; in 141o, 
 
512 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Mayor made a breach in the wall, and built the Moorgate poa 
 tern. Bricks are stated to have been made here, before any othe 
 part of London, in the 17th Edward IV., for repairing the City wal 
 between Aldgate and Aldersgate; when "Moorfields was searched fo 
 clay, and bricks were made and burnt there." Facing the wall was ; 
 black ditch ; hence " the melancholy of Moorditch." (Shakspeare, Henr. 
 IV. Part I.) In 1497, the gardens in Moorfields were made plain ; th 
 Moor was drained in 1527, and laid out in walks and planted in 1606. 
 
 In a blind alley about Moorfields met the Calves'-Hend Club, where an ax 
 hung up in the Club-room, and was reverenced as a principal symbol in this dia 
 bolical sacrament. Their great Feast of Calves' heads was held' the 30th of Janu 
 ary (the anniversary of the martyrdom of King Charles I.), the Club being erecte 
 " by an impudent set ot people, in deris:on of the day, and defiance of monarchy. 
 Their bill of fare was a large dish of calves' heads, dressed several ways ; a larg 
 pike, with a small one in his mouth, as an emblem of tyranny ; and a large cod' 
 head, to represent the person of the king (Charles I.) singly, as by the calve' 
 heads before they had done him together with all them that suffered in his cause 
 and a boar's head, with an apple in its mouth, to represent the king by this a 
 bestial, as by the others they had done foolish and tyrannical. After the repas 
 the Eikon Basilike was burnt, anthems were sung, and the oath was sworn upoi 
 Milton's Defensio Populi Anglicani. The company consisted of Independent 
 and Anabaptists ; Jerry White, formerly chaplain to Oliver Cromwell, said grace 
 and the table-cloth being removed, the Anniversary Anthem, as they impiousl; 
 called it, was sung, and a call's skull filled with wine or other liquor, and then ', 
 brimmer went about to the pious memory of those worthy patriots that had killei 
 the tyrant, &c. (See the Secret History of the C Ives'-Head Club, 6th edit. 1706.] 
 
 Evelyn, recording the Great Fire of 16G6, says the houseless peopl 
 took refuge about Moorfields, under tents and miserable huts am 
 hovels; and Pepys found Moorfields full of people, and " poor wretche 
 carrying their goods there ;" next year the fields were built upoi 
 and paved. On the south side was erected Bethlehem Hospital ii 
 1675-6 (see page 42), which has disappeared in our time, with the lonj 
 liue of furniture-dealers' shops from the north side. 
 
 " Through fam'd Moorfields extends a spacious seat, 
 Where mortals of exalted wit retreat; 
 Where, wrapp'd in contemplation and in straw, 
 The wiser few from the mad woild withdraw." 
 
 Gay to Mr. Thomas Snow, Goldsmith, near Temple Bar. 
 
 Under Bethlehem wall, in 1753-4, Elizabeth Canning, by her own tes 
 timony, was seized, robbed, and gagged ; thence dragged to Mothei 
 Welly's at Enfield Wash, and there nearly starved to death. 
 
 The Moor reached from London Wall to Hoxton; and a thousand 
 cartloads of human bones brought from St. Paul's charnel-house in 
 1549, and soon after covered with street-dirt, became so elevated, thai 
 three windmills were built upon it. (Aggas's plan shews three wind- 
 mills on the site of Finsbury-square : hence Windmill hill, now street/ 
 The ground on the south side being also much raised, it was named 
 Upper Moorfields. On the north of the fields stood the Dogge-house^ 
 where the Lord Mayor's hounds were kept by the Common Hunt: 
 hence " Dog-house Bar," City-road. Eastward the Moor was bounded 
 by the ancient hospital and priory of Bethlehem, separated by a deep 
 ditch, now covered by Blomtield-street. The lower part of the fields 
 was paled into four squares, each planted with elm-trees, round a grass- 
 plat, and intersected by broad gravel-walks; a favourite promenade in 
 evenings and fine weather, and called "the City Mall;" where beaux 
 wore their hats diagonally over their left or right eye, hence called '' the 
 Moorfields cock." Here was the Foundry at which, previous to the 
 year 1706, the brass ordnance for the British Government was cast. 
 Near the Foundry Whitefield built his Tabernacle (see page 176). 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 513 
 
 Moorfields was, till near Pennant's time, the haunt of low gamblers, 
 the great gymnasium of our capital, the resort of wrestlers, boxers, and 
 football-players. Here mountebanks erected their stages, and dispensed 
 infallible medicines to the gaping gulls. Here, too, field-preachers set 
 up their itinerant pulpits, beneath the shade of the trees ; and here 
 the pious, well-meaning Whitefield preached so winningly, as to gain 
 from a neighbouring charlatan the greater number of his admirers. 
 
 Moorgate was erected opposite Albion Chapel, at the south west 
 angle of the fields, and was rebuilt in 1672; the central gateway higher 
 than usual, for the City Trained Bands to march through it with their 
 pikes erected. The fields are now covered by Finsbury-square and 
 Circus, and adjoining streets: the name survives in " Little Moorfields." 
 In Finsbury-place was " the Temple of the Muses," built by James Lacking- 
 ton, the celebrated bookseller, who came to London in 1773 with only half-a- 
 crown in his pocket. In 1792 he clean d 5000/. by his business; and in 1/98 
 retired with a large fortune, amassed by dealing in old hooks, and reprinting them 
 at a cheap rate. He was succeeded by his cousin George Lackington, Allen, 
 Hughes, Mavor (a son of the Rev. Dr. Mavor), Harding, and Co. ; and next by 
 Jones and Co., the publishers of London in the Nineteenth Century. Lackington's 
 " Temple," which was a vast building, was destroyed by fire in 1841. 
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH, 
 
 Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury, occupies the site of Montague House, 
 built for Ralph Montague, first Baron Montague, of Boughton, by Ho- 
 bert Hooke, the celebrated mathematician and horologist. Evelyn de- 
 scribes it, in 1679, as " Mr. Mountague's new palace neere Bloomsbery, 
 built somewhat after the French pavilion way," with ceilings painted 
 by Verrio. On Jan. 19, 1686, it was burnt to the ground, through 
 the carelessness of a servant " airing some goods by the fire ;" the 
 house being at the time let by Lord Montague to the Earl of Devonshire. 
 Lady Rachel Russell, in one of her letters, describes the sparks and 
 flames covering Southampton House and filling the court. The loss is 
 stated at 40,000?., besides 60001. in plate ; and Lord Devonshire's pic- 
 tures, hangings, and furniture. The mansion was rebuilt upon the 
 foundations and burnt walls of the former one, the architect being 
 Peter Puget. La Fosse painted the ceilings, Rousseau the landscapes 
 and architecture, and Jean Baptiste Monoyer the flowers. Lord Mon- 
 tague, who in 1705 was created Marquis of Monthermer and Duke of 
 Montague, died here in 1709; his son resided here until his mansion was 
 completed at Whitehall. Montague House was built on the plan of a 
 first-class French hotel, of red brick, with stone dressings, lofty domed 
 centre, and pavilion-like wings. In front was a spacious court, inclosed 
 with a high wall, within which was an Ionic colonnade, the principal 
 entrance being in the centre, by the " Montague Great Gate," beneath 
 a picturesque octangular lantern, with clock and cupola; and at each 
 extremity of the wall was a square lantern. The old mansion was re- 
 moved between 1845 and 1852, when portions of the painted walls and 
 ceilings, La Fosse's deities, and Batiste's flowers, were preserved. 
 
 Montague House and gaidens occupied seven acres. In the latter, in 1780, 
 were encamped the troops stationed to quell the Gordon riots ; and a print of the 
 period shews the gardens in the rear of the mansion, laid out in grass terraces, 
 flower-borders, grass-plots, and gravel-walks, where the gay world resorted on a 
 Bummer's evening : the back being open to the fields, extending west to Lisson- 
 green and Paddington; north to Primrose Hill, Chalk Farm, Hampstead, and 
 Highgate; and east to Battlehridge, Islington, St. Pancras, &c. On the side 
 of the garden next Bedford-square was a fine grove of elm-trees; and the gardens 
 of Bedford House, in Bloomsbuiy-square, reached to those of the British Mu- 
 seum, before that house was taken down, and Russell-square and the adjacent 
 streets were built on its site. (See FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS, page 291.) 
 
 The British Museum has been the growth of a century, betwc en the 
 
 Ll4 
 
514 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 first purchase for the collection in 1753, and the near completion of the 
 new buildings in 1853. The Museum originated in a suggestion in 
 the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753). offering his collection to parlia- 
 ment for 20,OOOZ.. it having cost him 50,000/. The offer was accepted; 
 and by an Act (26th George II.) were purchased all Sir Hans Sloane's 
 "library of books, drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos 
 and intaglios, precious stones, agates, jaspers, vessels of agate and 
 jasper, crystals, mathematical instruments, pictures," &c. By the same 
 Act was bought, for 10,000/., the Harleian Library of Mss. (about 7000 
 volumes of rolls, charters, &c.) ; to which were added the Cottonian 
 Library of Mss., and the library of Major Arthur Edwards. (See LI- 
 BRARIES, page 460 ) By the same Act also was raised by lottery 
 100,000f., out of which the Sloane and Harleian collections were paid 
 for ; 10,250Z. to Lord Halifax for Montague House, and 12,873/. for its 
 repairs ; a fund being set apart for the payment of taxes and salaries of 
 officers. Trustees were elected from persons of rank, station, and literary 
 attainments; and the institution was named the BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 There had also been offered Buckingham House, with the gardens and 
 field, for 30.000Z. ; and at one time it was proposed to deposit the Museum 
 in Old Palace-yard, in the place designed by Kent for new Houses of 
 Parliament. To Montague House were removed the Harleian collection 
 of Mss. in 1755 ; other collections in 1756 ; and the Museum was opened 
 to the public January 15, 1759. 
 
 The new Museum, courtyard, and grounds, occupy seven acres. The 
 buildings were commenced in 1823 from the designs of Sir Robert 
 Smirke, R.A., succeeded in 1846 by his brother Mr. Sydney Smirke, 
 A.R.A. ; old Montague House being removed piecemeal as the new 
 buildings progressed, so that the Museum was not closed for the re- 
 building. The plan consists of a court vard, flanked east and west with 
 the official apartments. The main buildings form a quadrangle, in- 
 closing the ground of the gardens of Montague House ; and with its 
 Ionic porticoes and stately windows, having a solemn air in the midst of 
 the busy hive of London/ The architecture throughout the exterior is 
 Grecian-Ionic. The southern facade consists of the great entrance 
 portico, eight columns in width, and two intercolumniations in pro- 
 jection; on either side is an advancing wing: entire front 370 feet, 
 surrounded by a colonnade of 44 columns, 5 feet at their lower diameter, 
 and 45 feet high ; height of colonnade from the pavement 64i feet. At 
 the foot of the portico are 12 stone steps, 120 feet in width, terminating 
 with pedestals for colossal groups of sculpture. " Since the days of 
 Trajan or Hadrian, no such stones have been used as those recently em- 
 ployed at the British Museum, where 800 stones, from 5 to 9 tons weight, 
 form the front. Even St. Paul's contains no approach to these magni- 
 tudes." (Prof. CocTterells Lectures, 1850.) The tympanum of the pedi- 
 ment is enriched with a group allegorical of the " Progress of Civilisa- 
 tion," and thus described by the sculptor, Sir Richard Westmacott, K.A. : 
 
 "Commencing at the western end or angle of the pediment, Man is repre- 
 sented emerging from a rude savage state through the influence of Religion. He 
 is next personified as a hunter and tiller of the earth, and labouring for his sub- 
 sistence. Patriarchal simplicity then becomes invaded, and the worship of the 
 true God defiled. Paganism prevails, and becomes diffused by means of the Arts. 
 The worship of the heavenly bodies, and their supposed influence, led the Egyp- 
 tians, Chaldeans, and other nations to study astronomy, typified by the centre 
 statue the key-stone to the composition. Civilisation "is now presumed to have 
 made considerable progress. Descending towards the eastern angle of the pedi- 
 ment is Mathematics, in allusion to Science being now pursued on known sound 
 principles. The Drama, Poetry, and Music balance the group of the Fine Arts 
 on the western side, the whole composition terminating with Natuial History, hi 
 which such objects or specimens only are represented as could be made most 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 515 
 
 effective in sculpture." The crocodile is emblematic of the cruelty of man in 
 savage life, the tortoise of his slow progress to civilisation. The figure of As- 
 tronomy is 12 feet high, and weighs between 7 and 8 tons. The several figures 
 are executed in Portland-stone, and the decorative accessories are gilt. 
 
 The ornamental gates and railing inclosing the courtyard were 
 commenced in model by Lovati, who died before he had made much 
 progress ; they were completed by Mr. Thomas and Messrs. Collmann 
 and Davis. The railing spears painted dark copper, with the heads 
 gilt, and with an ornamented band is raised upon a granite curb. In 
 the centre of the railing is a grand set of carriage-gates and foot- 
 entrances, strengthened by fluted columns with composite capitals, 
 richly gilt, surmounted by vases. The frieze is wholly of hammered 
 iron : the remainder of the iron-work is cast from metal moulds, and 
 was chiefly piece-moulded, in order to obtain relief. The carriage-gates 
 are moved by a windlass, both sides opening simultaneously. Each 
 half of these gates weighs upwards of five tons. The height of the iron- 
 work is 9 feet to the top rail : the length of the whole palisade is about 
 800 feet. The metal-work was contracted for by Walker, of York, and 
 cost nearly 8000Z. Upon the granite gate-piers are to be placed sitting 
 statues of Bacon and Newton, and upon the two end piers Milton and 
 Shakspeare; the four statues by Sir Richard Westmacott, R.A. The 
 buildings have cost upwards of 800,000?. 
 
 As you stand beneath the portico, the effect is truly majestic, and 
 you are impressed with the feeling that this is a noble institution of a 
 great country. The principal entrance is by a carved oak door, 9 feet 6 
 inches in width, and 24 feet in height. The hall is Grecian-Doric. The 
 ceiling, trabeated and deeply coffered, is enriched with Greek frets and 
 other ornaments in various colours, painted in encaustic. Here are 
 three marble statues : the Hon. Mrs. Darner, holding a small figure of 
 the Genius of the Thames; Shakspeare, by Roubiliac; and Sir Joseph 
 Banks, Bart., by Chantrey. The statue of Shakspeare was bequeathed 
 by Garrick to the Museum after the death of his widow ; the statue of 
 Sir Joseph Banks was presented by his personal friends. 
 
 East of the hall is the Manuscripts Department ; west, the principal 
 staircase (with carved vases of Huddlestone stone), and a gallery which 
 forms the approach to the Collection of Antiquities. 
 
 At the top of this staircase commence the Natural History Rooms, 
 which occupy the upper eastern portion of the south front, and the 
 whole of the eastern and northern sides of the quadrangle. In the 
 remainder of the upper floor are the smaller Egyptian Antiquities; 
 Greek Vases and Bronzes; the Ethnographical Collection; and the 
 Coins and Medals. 
 
 On the lower floor, the eastern portion of the south front, and part 
 of the east wing, is the Library of Manuscripts. The remainder of the 
 east side, and the whole of the northern side of the quadrangle, are 
 occupied by the Printed Books. 
 
 In the ground-floor of all the buildings to the west of the quad- 
 rangle are the more massive Egyptian Antiquities ; the Greek and 
 Koman Marbles, including the Towneley, Elgin, and Phigaleian ; the 
 Assyrian Sculptures; the Lycian Antiquities; and the Canning Marbles. 
 
 In the basement of the north-west corner is the general Collection 
 of Insects; and in the apartments above are Prints and Drawings. 
 
 All that we shall attempt here will be to describe the leading 
 Curiosities of the several collections. 
 
516 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 mzjis 
 
 an i* 
 
 ~ CT 3 
 
 11. 
 
 i 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 517 
 
 Central Saloon Antelopes, goats, and sheep ; horns of oxen ; on 
 the floor are giraffes from North and South Africa, the African rhino- 
 ceros, Manilla buffalo, and the walrus. 
 
 Southern Zoological Gallery Oxen, deer, camels, llamas, horses, 
 swine, armadillos, manises, and sloths ; horns of antelopes ; elephants, 
 rhinoceroses, hippopotami, and wild oxen. The aurochs, or shaggy- 
 maned Lithuanian bison, presented by the Emperor of Russia, is said 
 to be the finest specimen of stuffing in the Museum. Above the bison 
 of the prairies is the ornithorhyncus, with a bird-like bill, the water- 
 mole of Australia. 
 
 Mammalia Saloon Old World monkeys, including the chimpanzee, 
 closely resembling man ; New World monkeys, including the howlers; 
 lemurs; ferae, a black leopard, which killed its keeper; the bear tribe; 
 a Mexican lapdog, very minute ; marsupials, or pouched animals, from 
 Australia ; cete, or whale-like animals. Corals in the table-cases ; 
 above are the sword-fish, sturgeon, and conger. 
 
 ^ Eastern Zoological Gallery, 300 feet long and 50 feet wide, con- 
 tains a magnificent collection of stuffed birds in the wall-cases, and 
 their eggs in table-cases ; horns of deer, and a fine collection of shells. 
 Here is a Reeves's Chinese pheasant (tail-feathers 5ft. 6 in. long) ; and 
 next the ostriches are a Dutch painting of the extinct dodo, a foot of 
 the bird supposed to be more than two and a half centuries old, and a 
 cast of the head; also, a specimen of the rare apteryx, or wingless bird 
 of New Zealand. 
 
 Above the wall-cases are 116 portraits of sovereigns, statesmen, heroes, travel- 
 lers, and men of science, a lew from the Sloanean and Cottonian collections : in- 
 cluding two portraits of Oliver Cromwell (one a copy from an original possessed by 
 a great-grandson of Cromwell ; the other an original presented by Cromwell him- 
 self to Nath. Rich, a colonel in the parliamentary army, and bequeathed to the 
 Museum, in 174, by Sir Robert Rich, Bart.); three portraits of Mary Queen of 
 Scots; Richard 1 1., Edward III. .Henry V., Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, James I., 
 Charles 1. and II., &c.; three portraits of Sir Hans Sloane ; Peter I. of Russia, 
 Stanislaus Augustus I. of Poland, Charles XII. of Sweden, and Louis XIV. of 
 France ; Lord Bacon ; the poets Pope and Prior; Dr. John Ray, the first great Eng- 
 lish naturalist; George Buchanan, 1581, on panel; Sir Francis Drake and Captain 
 Dampier; Martin Luther, 1546, on panel; Guttenberg, the inventor of print- 
 ing ; Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist ; Vesalius, by Sir Antonio More ; Mary 
 Davis, 1688, " aetatis 74," with a horn-like wen on her head ; Sir Robert Cotton, 
 Dr. Birch, Humphrey Wanley, Sir H. Spelman, and Sir H. Dugdale; Camden, 
 on panel; Thomas Britton, the musical small-coal-man ; Andrew Marvell, said 
 to be the only portrait extant of him ; &c. This is, probably, the largest collection 
 of portraits in the kingdom: many are ill-painted, others very curious, and some 
 unique; the majority of them had long lain in the lumber-lofts of the old 
 Museum, when they were hung up, chiefly at the suggestion of the late Mr. 
 William Smith, print collector, of Lisle-street. A very interesting catalogue 
 raisonnee of these pictures appeared in the Times, Nov. 27 and Dec. 8, 1838. 
 
 Northern Zoological Gallery contains five rooms. 1. Bats, and 
 nests of birds and insects ; annulose animals ; and shells. 2. Lizards, 
 snakes and serpents, tortoises and turtles, crocodiles and amphisbaBnas, 
 batrachian animals, sea-eggs, star-fish, &c. 3. The British zoological 
 collection. 4. Exotic bony fish, insects, and Crustacea (to be seen 
 every Tuesday and Friday) : here are the praying-mantis, walking-leaf, 
 and a Brazilian wasp's-nest. 5. Sharks, torpedoes, rays, sponges, &c. 
 The Collection of Insects is as extensive as the entomological collec- 
 tion at Paris. Over the wall-cases are the Herschel pike-fish, from 
 the Cape of Good Hope; the sudia, from Berbicej and the bony pike, 
 from North America. 
 
 MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY. North Gallery General collection 
 of Minerals (mostly on Berzelius's system), in four rooms : mass of 
 
518 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 meteoric iron (14001bs.) from Buenos Ayres ; native silver from Kons- 
 berg; trunk of a tree converted into se'mi-opal; large mass of "\Veb- 
 sterite from Newhaven; tortoise sculptured in nephrite, or jade, from 
 the banks of the Jumna; Esquimaux knife and harpoon, of meteoric 
 iron ; a large collection of meteoric stones chronologically arranged. 
 Here, also, are diamonds of various forms, and models of celebrated 
 diamonds. The collection is superior to any in Europe, and includes a 
 splendid cabinet of minerals from the Harz Mountains, formerly pre- 
 served in the Observatory at Richmond. 
 
 Fossils, in six rooms: 1. Vegetables ; ferns and palmae, fossil wood 
 and sandstone, with supposed footmarks of animals when the stone was 
 in a semi-fluid state. 2. The megatherium from Buenos Ayres, gigan- 
 tic tortoise, and bones of extinct dinornis. 3. Frog, tortoise, and .cro- 
 codile fossils: gigantic salamander, mistaken for a human skeleton; re- 
 mains of iguanodon, 70 feet long, from Tilgate Forest, Sussex ; of the 
 hylseosaurus, or wealden lizard ; and the plesiosaurus. 4. Large spe- 
 cimens of ichthyosaurus ; hyena remains from the Torquay and Kirk- 
 dale caverns ; phlascotherium Bucklandi, from the great oolite, Stones- 
 field, Oxon. 5. Fossil fishes, arranged after Agassiz ; skull of the siva- 
 therium ; teeth of rhinoceros, found in Essex ; complete skeleton of the 
 large extinct Irish elk. 6. Remains of dinotherium (18 feet high), 
 mastodon, and elephant ; cast of the skeleton of the megatherium 
 Americanum, found in Buenos Ayres; fossil human skeleton from 
 Guadaloupe, &c. In Saurian Fossils the Museum is eminently rich ; 
 as well as in gigantic osseous remains, and impressions of vegetables, 
 fruit, and fish. 
 
 THE BOTANICAL OR BANKSIAN DEPARTMENT contains the Herbaria 
 of Sir Hans Sloane (336 volumes bound in 262) ; the Herbaria of Plukenet 
 and Petiver ; collections from those of Merret, Cunningham, Hermann, 
 Bobart, Bernard de Jussieu, Tournefort, Scheuchzer, Kamel, ^ r aillant, 
 KcEmpfer, Catesby, Houston, and Boerhaave ; the plants presented to 
 the Royal Society by the Company of Apothecaries from 1722 to 1796, 
 as rent paid by the Company for the Botanic Garden at Chelsea. 
 Also the Herbarium of the Baron de Moll ; the Herbarium of Sir Jo- 
 seph Banks, im stly in cabinets, nearly 30,000 species, including Sir 
 Joseph's collections upon his voyage with Captain Cook, and the plants 
 collected in subsequent voyages of discovery; Loureiro's plants from 
 Cochin China; an extensive series presented by the East India Com- 
 pany; Egyptian plants, presented by Wilkinson, &c. The flowers and 
 fruits preserved in spirits, and the dried seeds and fruits, are fine. 
 
 GALLERY OF ANTIQUITIES. Assyrian Sculptures, collected by 
 Layard : fragments of the disinterred Assyrian palaces of Nimroud 
 (Nineveh) and Kouyunjik ; cuneiform (arrow-headed) and other writ- 
 ing ; gypsum or alabaster bas-reliefs that lined the interior walls ; 
 detached sculptures ; ivories and other ornaments ; winged lions, 
 weighing 15 tons each ; winged bulls, each 14 feet high ; sculptured 
 slabs of battle-pieces and sieges, combats, treaties and triumphs, lion and 
 bull hunts, armies crossing rivers ; winged and eagle-headed human 
 figures ; religious ceremonies ; sculptured obelisks ; inscription on a 
 bull, connecting the Assyrian dynasty of Sennacherib with Hezekiah 
 of the Bible ; fragments* of a temple built by Sardanapalus ; and a 
 basalt Assyrian statue, closely resembling the Egyptian style; cos- 
 tumes, field-sports, and domestic life of 2000 years since. Here also 
 are a few stones with cuneiform inscriptions, excavated by Mr. Rich 
 from the presumed site of Nineveh, near Mosul; but previous to Mr. 
 Layard's researches, " a case scarcely three feet square enclosed all 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 519 
 
 that remained not only of the great city Nineveh, but of Babylon 
 itself!" (See Layard's Nineveh and its Remains, Monuments, 6fc.) 
 
 Phigaleian Saloon Bas-reliefs of the battle of the Centaurs and 
 Lapithae, and the combat of the Greeks and Amazons, from among the 
 ruins of the Temple of Apollo Epicurius, near Phigaleia ; built by 
 Ictinus, contemporary with Phidias, and architect of the Parthenon 
 (Pausanias). Their historical value, representing the art of the Praxi- 
 teliau period, is scarcely less than that of the Parthenon marbles. In 
 two model pediments from the eastern and western ends of the Temple 
 of Jupiter Parhellenius, in the island of JEg'ma,, are, west, 10 original 
 statues, representing Greeks and Trojans contesting for the body of 
 Patroclus ; east, 5 figures, expedition of Hercules and Telamon against 
 Troy, these statues being the only illustration extant of the armour of 
 the heroic ages. In this saloon, also, are the Canning Marbles, or 
 Sodroum Sculptures, from Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site of Hali- 
 carnassus ; 11 bas-reliefs (combat of Amazons and Greek warriors), 
 formerly part of the celebrated Mausoleum erected in honour of Mau- 
 solus, King of Caria, by his wife Artemisia, B.C. 353: it was one of the 
 Seven Wonders of the World. These, and other sculptures from Bo- 
 droum, were presented by the Sultan to Sir Stratford Canning (whence 
 their name), and by him to the British Museum. 
 
 British and Anglo -Roman Remains Tesselated pavements, Roman 
 altars, sarcophagi, Roman pigs of lead ; tesselated pavements from the 
 Bank of England and Threadneedle-street and other parts ; Roman 
 mill fragments from Trinity-House-square, and a sarcophagus from 
 Haydon-square. 
 
 Greek and Roman Sculptures Statues and bas-reliefs by Greek 
 artists, or from Greek originals ; busts of mythological, poetical, and 
 historical personages; statues and busts of Roman emperors; architec- 
 tural and decorative sculptures and bas-reliefs ; sepulchral monuments, 
 Etruscan, Greek, and Roman ; Roman altars ; pavement from Car- 
 thage ; bas-relief of Jupiter and Leda ; the group of Mithra; the Ron- 
 dini Fawn ; torso of Venus, from Richmond House ; bas-relief of the 
 Apotheosis of Homer, cost 1000J. ; Persepolitan marbles, presented by 
 Sir Gore Ouseley and the Earl of Aberdeen; a Venus of the Capitol; 
 and other high-class marbles from the collections of Sir W. Hamilton, 
 R. Payne Knight, and Edmund Burke, including, from the latter, the 
 copy of the Cupid of Praxiteles, presented by the painter Barry to 
 Burke. Here also are a sarcophagus from Sidon, sculptured with 
 combats of Greeks, Amazons, and Centaurs ; and a magnificent marble 
 tazza 4 feet 3 inches high, and 3 feet 7 inches diameter. 
 
 The Towneley Collection of bas-reliefs, vases, statues and groups, 
 heads and busts, includes 83 terra-cottas : the famed Discobulus, or 
 Quoit-thrower, in marble, from the bronze of the sculptor Myron ; 
 Venus, or Dione, the finest Greek statue seen by Canova in England; 
 Venus Victrix, of the highest style of art ; busts of Pallas, Hercules, 
 Minerva, and Homer; bust of " Clytie rising from a sunflower;" and 
 busts of Greek poets and philosophers. The Bacchus is finest so 
 beautiful, self-possessed, and severe; Bacchus, the mighty conqueror 
 of India not a drunken boy but the power, not the victim of wine. 
 
 These stores of Greek and Roman art were collected by Mr. Charles Towneley, 
 chiefly at Rome, between 1765 and 1772; and were arranged by him at No. 7 
 Park-street, Westminster, with accompaniments so classically correct, that the 
 house resembled the interior of a Roman villa. The dining-room had walls of 
 seagliola porphyry ; and here were placed the largest and most valuable statues, 
 lighted by lamps almost to animation. Mr. Towneley died in 1805; and his col- 
 lection of marbles and terra-cottas was purchased by the British Museum for 
 
520 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 20,0001., and first exhibited in a gallery built for their reception in 180S. Mr. 
 Towneley's bronzes, coins, gems, drawings, &c., chiefly illustrating the sculptures, 
 were subsequently purchased by the Museum for S20(M. A bust of Mr. Towneley, 
 by Nollekens. is placed near the entrance to the Central Saloon. 
 
 Elgin Saloon The Elgin marbles, brought from the Parti : enon at 
 Athens by the Earl of Elgin : some are the work of Phidias himself. 
 (See in this room two models of the Parthenon, each 12 feet long, made 
 by R. C. Lucas, described in Remark* OH the Parthenon by R. C. Lucas, 
 Sculptor: Salisbury, 1844: 1. The temple after the bombardment i 
 2. The Parthenon "restored.) The Metopes from the Frieze (15 origi- 
 nals and 1 cast), representing the battle of the Centaurs and Lapitha?, in 
 alto-relievo : for the original the English government agent bid 1000/. at 
 the sale of the collection of the Count de Choiseul Gouffier : but he was 
 outbid by the Director of the French Museum, where the metope now 
 is. The Panathenaii- Frieze. o24 feet in length, is probably the largest 
 piece of sculpture ever attempted in Greece: its men, "women, and 
 children, in all costume* and attitudes; horsemen, charioteers: oxen 
 and other victims for sacrifice ; images of the gods ; sacred flagons, 
 baskets, &c, have an astonishing air of reality. Of the 110 hor- 
 two are in the same attitude: "they appear,"" says Flaxman, **to live 
 and move: to roll their eves, to gallop, prance, and curvet : the veins 
 of their faces and legs seem distended with circulation." Here are about 
 326 feet of the Frieze ; 76 feet casts, and about 250 feet of the genuine 
 marble which Phidias put up. 
 
 " The British Museum," says Professor Welcker, " possesses in the works of 
 Phidias a treasure with which no'hing can be compared in the whole range of 
 ancient art." Flaxman said that these sculptures were ' as perfect representa- 
 tions of nature as it is possible to put into the compass of the n arble in which 
 they are executed and nature, too, in its most beautiful form.' Cnantrey spoke 
 enthusiastically of ' the exquisite j 'dement with which the artists of these* sculp- 
 tures hid modified the style of working the marble, according to the kind and 
 degree of light mhieh would fall on thrm when in their places.' Lawrence said 
 that, after looking at the finest sculptures in Italy, he found the Elgin n.arbles 
 superior to any of them.' Canova said, in reply to an application made to him 
 respecting their repair or restoration, that ' it would be sacrilege in him or any 
 man, to presume to touch them with a chisel.' " 
 
 Pedimental sculptures, placed upon raised stages: East, the birth of 
 Minerva ; Hyperion, and heads of two of his horses ; Theseus, ideal beauty 
 of the first order, the finest figure in the collection, of which more draw- 
 ings have been made than all the other Athenian marbles put together: 
 " the back of the Theseus is the finest thing in the world." Head of a 
 horse from the cbari&t ot Night, valued at 250/., the finest possible work- 
 manship. West pediment: Contest between Athena and Poseidon for 
 the naming of Athens ; the recumbent statue of the river god . 
 pronounced by Canova and Visconti equal to the Theseus ; torso, sup- 
 posed of Cecrops. grand in outline ; fragment of the head and statue of 
 Minerva. Also, a capital and part of a shaft of a Doric column of the 
 Parthenon ; piece of the ceiling, and Ionic shaft, from the Temple of 
 Erechtheus a: Athens; imperfect statue of a youth; piece of a frieze 
 from the tomb of Agamemnon, exceedingly ancient : circular altars 
 from Delos : bronze sepulchral urn, very richly wrought ; casts from 
 the Temples of Theseus, the best preserved of all the ancient Athenian 
 monuments ; the Wingless Victory and the Choragic monument of Ly si- 
 crates ; from the Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, a colossal statue of 
 Bacchus, inferior only to the Phidian sculptures ; Eros (Cupid), 4|B 
 covered by Lord Elgin within the Acropolis (headless), has in the limbs 
 the grace'and elegance of the age of Praxiteles ; the Sigean inscription, 
 most ancient Grecian, in the Boustrophcdon style : i. e. the lines read as 
 an ox passes from one furrow to another. 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 521 
 
 To Haydon must be conceded the genius of instantly appreciating the beauty 
 of the Elgin Marbles; yet they were utterly neglected until Canova, on seeing 
 them, declared, " Sans dome, la verite est telle, les accidents de la chair et les 
 formes sont si vraies et si belles, que ces statues produiront un grand changement 
 dans le.i arts. II* renverseront le systeme mathematique des autres antiques." 
 Haydon soon roused the public interest in the sculptures, and they were purchased 
 by Parliament for 'AS 0001. " You have saved the marbles," Lawrence said to Hay- 
 don, " but it will ruin you." Haydon's Autobiography, If 53. 
 
 Tuesdays and Thursdays in every week, and the whole month of September 
 in every year (when daylight is usually the steadiest and strongest), are exclu- 
 sively devoted 10 artists and students in the Elgin and Towneley Galleries. 
 
 Lycian Saloon Reliefs, tombs, and sarcophagi discovered and 
 brought to England by Sir Charles Fellows, principally from the ruins of 
 Xanthus. S. "SV. Asia Minor ; datingfrom the earliest Greek period to that 
 of the Byzantine empire, and earlier than the Parthenon. Model of the 
 Harpv Tomb, with its actual white marble reliefs, presumed to represent 
 the daughters of Pandarus carried off by Harpies : the tomb itself was 
 a square shaft, 80 tons weight. Model" of an Ionic peristyle building, 
 with 14 columns and statues; the friezes representing the conquest of 
 Lycia by the Persians, and the siege of Xanthus. Tomb of Paiata : roof 
 resembling an inverted boat, and an early Gothic arch; the sides sculp- 
 tured with combats of warriors on horseback and foot; a chariot, 
 sphinxes, &c. Casts from the sculptured Bock-tomb at Myra, with 
 bilingual (Greek and Lycian) inscription. 
 
 British and Mediaeval Room, containing antiquities found in Great 
 Britain and Ireland, and extending from the earliest period tu the Nor- 
 man Conquest; also, Mediaeval objects, English and foreign ; including 
 
 Celts; stone knives, arrow-heads, and hammers; models of Celtic cromlechs, 
 or sepulchres ; paintings of Plas Newydd and Stonehenge ; bronze celts, sword*, 
 daggers, spear-heads, helmet, and buckler; half-baked pottery from British bar- 
 lows; fragments of Roman buildings; Kimmeridge coal-money; a Coway stake 
 from the Thames; Roman service of plate; Roman glass; Saxon brooches. Mc- 
 di&tal : personal ornaments and weapons; ivory chessmen and draughtsmen; 
 _> from St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster; Dr. Dee's crystal ball and 
 wax cakes ; and (from Strawberry Hill) the Show-stone (cannel coal) into which 
 Dee " used to call his spirits." Here also are tenure and state swords ; Limoges 
 enamels; Venetian glass; Alhambra tiles ; Bow porcelain; Wedgwood copy of 
 the Portland Vase, and two superb Chelsea porcelain vases, valued at 300 guineas, 
 presented by Wedgwood. 
 
 Egyptian Gallerie$. On the west side of the Museum the Egyp- 
 tian Sculptures (from Thebes, Karnac, Luxor, and Memphis, and 800 
 in number) are placed in chronological order, from north to south : 
 in the vestibule, early period; northern gallery, 18th dynasty; central 
 saloon , monuments of Rameses II. ; and in the southern gallery, those 
 posterior to that monarch, descending to the latest times of the Roman 
 empire. The Egyptian, Assyrian, and Greek Antiquities are thus ex- 
 hibited in three parallel lines ; a fourth, or transverse line, along the 
 southern extremity of the others, being appropriated to Roman re- 
 mains. Among the sculptures from Egypt are, the celebrated head of 
 Memnon, from Thebes, of first-class Egyptian art. The head and arm 
 of a king, a statue originally 26 feet high. Amenoph III. seated on his 
 throne the great Memnon in miniature. Two colossal red granite 
 
 os, couchant, from Upper Nubia; tine specimens of early Egyptian 
 mrt in animal forms. Breccia sarcophagus, supposed tomb of Alexander 
 the Great, carved with 21,700 characters. The Rosetta Stone, black 
 
 talt, the most valuable existing relic of Egyptian history, inscribed 
 in hieroglyphics, the ancient spoken language "of Egypt, and in Greek, 
 with the services of Ptolemy V. Epiphanes ; the deciphering of which 
 
522 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tablets and fragments of tombs; Egyptian frescoes, painted perhaps 
 3000 years ago, yet fresh in colour. Arragonite vases from the fourth 
 dynasty. Plaster casts taken in Egypt, and coloured after the originals. 
 Egyptian Rooms (two), upstairs, contain divinities, and royal per- 
 sonages, and sacred animals; sepulchral remains; and miscellaneous 
 objects, specially illustrative of the domestic manners of the Egyptians: 
 mostly from the collections of Salt, Sams, and Wilkinson. Here are 
 mummies and mummy-cases, wooden figures from tombs, bronze offer- 
 ings, and porcelain figures; painted, gilt, stone, bronze, silver, and por- 
 celain deities; figures of the jackal, hippopotamus, baboon, lion, cat, 
 ram, &c. ; a coffin and body from the third pyramid ; model of an Egyp- 
 tian house, granary, and yard; furniture, as tables, stools, chairs, and 
 head-rests, couches and pillows, keys, locks, hinges, bolts, and handles; 
 from the toilet, the black wig and box, caps, aprons, tunics, sandals, 
 shoes, combs, pins, studs, and cases for eye-lid paint ; vases and lamps, 
 bowls and cups, agricultural implements, warlike weapons, writing and 
 painting implements, working tools, and weaving looms, toys, and mu- 
 sical instruments. A stand, with a cooked duck and bread-cakes, from 
 a tomb; sepulchral tablets, scarabaei, and amulets; rings, necklaces, and 
 bracelets, and mummy ornaments. Above the wall-cases are casts of 
 battle-scenes, triumphs, and court ceremonies, coloured after the origi- 
 nals, from temples in Nubia. 
 
 Bronze Room Figures of divinities, furniture, mirrors, tripods, 
 candelabra, lamps and vases, armour, personal ornaments, &c. ; in- 
 cluding copper-bronze lions, bronze remains of a throne, fragments of 
 glass vessels and of armour, discovered by Mr. Layard in Assvria. 
 A large collection of bronze objects from Greece Proper, from Rome 
 and of the Roman period; and from the sepulchres of ancient Etruria, 
 and the excavations at Pompeii and Herculaneum. These include frag- 
 ments of statues ; spear-heads, daggers, helmets, and Roman eagles ; 
 steelyards, amphora?, and tripods ; candelabra, vases, votive figures, and 
 statuettes; mirrors and their cases; the exquisite 798 bronzes be- 
 queathed by R. Payne Knight; and the celebrated bronzes of Siris, 
 from the south of Italy. Miscellaneous Greek and Roman objects, in- 
 cluding astragali of crystal, cornelian, and ivory; dice, anciently loaded; 
 tickets for the games; hair-pins and ivory busts; ancient glass vases 
 and paterge ; fragments of cornelian, onyx, and jasper cups, and a crys- 
 tal vessel holding gold; animals in bronze; styli for writing; keys, 
 plates, enamel- work ; Etruscan and Roman fibula: and finger-rings. Above 
 the wall- cases are fac-simile paintings of Games, from tombs at Vida. 
 
 Vase Rooms (two) contain Etruscan and Graeco-Italian vases, 
 painted from the myths or popular poetry of the day : classified into 
 Early Italian, Black Etruscan, and Red Etruscan ware ; varnished 
 ware, mostly early ; Italian vases, of Archaic Greek style ; vases of 
 Transition style, finest Greek, and the Basilicata and latest period. 
 (Vaux's Handbook.} Here are the ancient fictile vases purchased of 
 Sir William Hamilton in 1772, and then the largest collection known. 
 
 The Hamilton Vase, on being examined in 1839 hy M. Gerhard, was found 
 to bear the name of each personage depicted on it ; from which it appears that 
 the myth, or story, is totally distinct from that assigned to it by M. D'Haaear- 
 ville, in his schedules of the Vases of the Hamilton collection; thus overturning 
 his theory, and reading a strange lesson to virtuosi and antiquaries. 
 Here also are Greek and Roman terra-cottas, of various epochs and 
 styles. Above the wall-cases are painted fac-similes, by Campanari, 
 of entertainments from Etruscan tombs. 
 
 The Barberini or Portland Vase, the property of the Duke of 
 Portland, has been deposited in the Museum since 1810. 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 523 
 
 The Portland Vase was found about 1560, in a sarcophagus in a sepulchre under 
 
 i the Monte del Grano, 2 miles from Rome. It was deposited in the palace of the 
 
 Barberini family until 1 770, when it was purchased by Byres, the antiquary; and sold 
 
 by him to Sir William Hamilton, of whom it was bought, for 1800 guineas, by the 
 
 I Duchess of Portland, at the sale of whose property it was bought in by the family 
 
 for 10291. The vase is 9| inches high and 1\ inches in diameter, and has two 
 
 handles. It is of glass; yet Breval considered it calcedony; Bartoli, sardonyx; 
 
 Count Tetzi, amethyst; and De la Chausse, agate. It is ornamented with white 
 
 I opaque figures upon a dark-blue semi-transparent ground; the whole having 
 
 been originally covered with white enamel, out of which the figures have been cut, 
 
 | like a cameo. The glass foot is distinct, and is thought to have been cemented 
 
 i on after bones or ashes had been placed in the vase. The seven figures, each 5 
 
 inches high, are said by some to illustrate the fable of Thaddeus and Theseus; 
 
 by Bertoli, Proserpine and Pluto; by Winckelmann, the nuptials of Thetis and 
 
 Peleus ; Darwin, an allegory of Life and Immortality ; others, Orpheus and Eury- 
 
 dice; Fnsbroke, a marriage, dea'h, and second marriage; Tetzi, the birth of 
 
 Alexander Severus, whose cinerary urn the vase is thought to be; while Mr. 
 
 "VVindus, F.S.A., in a work published 1845, considers the scene as a love-sick lady 
 
 consulting Galen. The vase was engraved by Cipriani and Bartolozzi in 1786; 
 
 copies of it were executed by Wedgwood, and sold at 50 guineas each, the model 
 
 for which cost 500 guineas : there is a copy in the British and Mediaeval Room. 
 
 The Portland Vase was exhibited in a small room of the old Mu- 
 seum buildings until Feb. 7, 1845, when it was wantonly dashed to 
 pieces with a stone by one William Lloyd ; but the pieces being ga- 
 thered up, the Vase has been restored by Mr. Doubleday so beauti- 
 fully, that a blemish can scarcely be detected. The Vase is now kept 
 in the Medal Room. A drawing of the fractured pieces is preserved. 
 
 The Ethnographical Room contains objects illustrating the religion, 
 arts, and industry of various countries: including the model of a mov- 
 able Indian temple ; a Chinese bell, captured from a Buddhist temple 
 near Ningpo in 1844; model of Nelson's ship, the Victory, and a piece 
 of its actual timber with a 401b. shot in it from the battle of Trafalgar; 
 a plaster cast of the Shield of Achilles, modelled by Flaxman from the 
 17th book of Homer's Iliad; a colossal gilt figure of the Burmese idol 
 Gaudma; Chinese figures of deities, beggars, mandarins, and trinkets; 
 Hindoo deities, measures, vessels, and arms; Chinese and Japanese 
 matchlocks, bows and arrows, shoes, mirrors, screens, and musical in- 
 struments ; richly-decorated cloth from Central Africa; a Foulah cloak 
 from Sierra Leone; an Ashantee loom, umbrellas, tobacco-pipes, fly- 
 flappers, and sandals; terra-cotta Mexican figures (mostly from Bul- 
 lock's Museum); Aztec vases, idols, and armaments; Peruvian mum- 
 mies and silver images ; musical instruments, weapons, tools, orna- 
 ments, and costumes, from Guiana, the Marquesas and Sandwich Islands, 
 Tahiti and the Friendly Isles, New Zealand and Australia, Borneo, 
 New Guinea, the Pelew Islands, Siam,&c. ; and a tortoise-shell bonnet 
 from the Navigators' Islands. 
 
 The Medal Room contains a collection of Coins and Medals superior 
 to that of Vienna and Florence, if not Paris. The nucleus of the Bri- 
 tish Museum collection was Sir Hans Sloane's coins, worth 7000?. as 
 bullion, to which were added Sir Robert Cotton's coins ; 6000 medals 
 from the Hamilton collection ; the Cracherode coins and medals, valued 
 at GOOOJ.; coins from the Conquest to George III. (Roberts's), pur- 
 chased for 4000 guineas ; a series of Papal medals, and a collection of 
 Greek coins ; the Towneley Greek and Roman coins ; a vast collection 
 of foreign coins, presented by Miss Banks; Payne Knight's Greek 
 coins; Rich's early Arabian, Parthian, and Sassanian coins; medals 
 and coins attached to the library of George III.; Marsden's Oriental 
 coins; Burnes's Bactrian coins; and contributions and purchases of 
 finds of Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Gallic, and early English coins. The 
 collection is arranged in, 1. Ancient coins Greek in geographical order, 
 
524 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and Roman chronologically. 2. Modern coins Anglo-Saxon, English, 
 Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, arid Irish, and the coins of foreign nations, ar- 
 ranged according to countries : the Anglo-Saxon and English series is 
 complete from Ethelbert I. Of Queen Anne's farthings here are seven 
 varieties, one only of which circulated, the others being pattern-pieces.* 
 3. Medals, including an almost perfect series of British medals, besides 
 the Papal and Napoleonic medals. Here is kept a gold snuff-box set 
 with diamonds, and a miniature portrait of Napoleon, who presented it 
 to the late Hon. Mrs. Darner, by whom it was bequeathed to the Mu- 
 seum, on condition that the portrait should never be copied. Also 
 a gold snuff-box with a cameo lid, presented by Pope Pius VI. to Na- 
 poleon, and by him bequeathed to Lady Holland, with a card in Napo- 
 leon's handwriting. Here are the engraved gems, antique pastes and 
 glass, and gold trinkets, including the breastplate of a British chieftain. 
 
 LIBRARIES. The Royal Library and general collection of Printed 
 Books occupy the east a'nd north sides of the ground-floor of the Mu- 
 seum buildings. The King's Library, collected by George III., and 
 presented to the nation in 1823 by George IV., is deposited in a mag- 
 niScent hall 300 feet long and 65 feet wide in the centre, where are 
 four Corinthian columns of polished Peterhead granite 25 feet high, with 
 Derbyshire alabaster capitals: the door-cases are marble, and the doors 
 oak inlaid with bronze. This library, the finest and most complete ever 
 formed by a single individual, is exceedingly rich in early editions of 
 the classics, books from Caxton's press, history of the states of Eu- 
 rope in their respective languages, in Transactions of Academies, and 
 grand geographical collection, 80,000 volumes, exclusive of pamphlets: 
 among the Jesuits' books, purchased in 1768, was the Florence Homer 
 of 1488. Here is one of the most extensive and interesting collections of 
 maps in Europe. The collection cost 130,000f. ; catalogue, 5 vols. folio. 
 
 The Grenville Library, 20,240 volumes, cost 54,0007., was bequeathed 
 to the Museum by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, whose bust is 
 placed here. Among its rarities are a Mazarine Latin Bible on vellum, 
 the earliest printed Bible, and the earliest printed book known (sup- 
 posed Gutenberg and Fust, Mentz, 1455) ; also the first Psalter, the 
 first book with a date, and earliest printed in colours. 
 
 The General Library, 510,110 volumes (July 1853), ranks with the 
 public libraries of Vienna and Berlin, and is inferior only to those of 
 Munich and Paris. The collection occupies twelve or thirteen rooms, 
 and, with the manuscripts and charters, fills upwards of thirteen miles 
 of shelves. Among the rarities is Coverdale's Bible, 1535, the first 
 complete edition of the Scriptures in English ; " The Game and Playe 
 of the Chesse," the first book printed in English, from Caxton's press, 
 1474; the first edition of Chaucer's "Tales of Canterburye," only two 
 perfect copies known, &c.; pamphlets and periodicals of the Civil 
 Wars of Charles I. ; the musical libraries of Sir John Hawkins and Dr. 
 Burney; Garrick's old Plays; Tracts of the Revolutionary History of 
 France. Books of Divinity are bound in blue, History in red, Poetry in 
 yellow, and Biography in olive-coloured, leather. The catalogues of 
 the several collections are in themselves a library, of 632 volumes. The 
 catalogue, 7 vols. 1813-19, has been expanded, by interleaving and ma- 
 
 * The real Queen Anne's Farthing, with the figure of Britannia on the reverse, 
 and below it, in the exergue, the date 1714, brings from 7s. to a guinea; but at 
 Baron Bolland's sale, in 1841, a pattern piece fetched 91. 9s. The idea that there 
 is but one Queen Anne's farthing in existence, and that only three were struck, 
 is a popular error, several hundreds having been struck. This erroneous belief 
 has caused the British Museum authorities almost as many annoyances as the 
 rarity of a " tortoise-shell toin-cat." 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 525 
 
 nuscript entries, into 67 folio volumes. About 2000/. is expended an- 
 nually in adding old and foreign works to the library ; and, under the 
 Copyright Act, 5 and 6 Vic. cap. 48, a copy of every book, pamphlet, 
 sheet of letterpress, sheet of music, chart, or plan, published within 
 her Majesty's dominions, must be delivered to the British Museum. 
 
 The Newspapers are the largest collection in England. It was 
 commenced by Sir Hans Sloane ; and to it, in 1813, was added Dr. 
 Burney's collection, purchased for 1000J. ; since which the Commis- 
 sioners of Stamps have transferred to the Museum copies of all the 
 stamped newspapers. The oldest in the collection is a Venetian .Ga- 
 zette of the year Io70. Dr. Birch's Historical Collections, No. 4106, 
 contain " The English Mercuric" of July 23, 1588, long believed " the 
 earliest English newspaper," now proved to be a forgery. In Dr. 
 Burney's library is " Newes out of Holland," May 16, 1619, the earliest 
 newspaper printed in England ; and " The News of the Present Week," 
 the first weekly newspaper. 
 
 The Reading Room (two of the largest apartments of the library 
 of printed books) contains mostly dictionaries, magazines, encyclopedias, 
 topographical works, and other books of reference : entrance from Mon- 
 tague-place. 
 
 The Reading Room is open every day, except on Sundays, on Ash Wednesdays, 
 Good Fridays, Christmas-day, and on any Fast or Thanksgiving days ordered by 
 authority; except also between the 1st and 7th of May, the 1st and 7th of Sep- 
 tember, and the 1st and 7th of January, inclusive. The hours are from 9 till 7 
 during May, June, July, and August (except on Saturdays, at 5), and from 9 till 
 4 during the rest of the year. To obtain admission, persons are to send their ap- 
 plications in writing, specifying their Christian and surnames, rank or profession, 
 and places of abode, to the principal Librarian; or, in his absence, to the Secre- 
 tary; or, in his absence, to the senior under-librarian ; who will either imme- 
 diately admit such persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of 
 the Trustees. Every person applying is to produce a recommendation satisfactory 
 to a Trustee or an officer of the establishment. Applications defective in this 
 respect will not be attended to. Permission will in general be granted for six 
 months, and at the expiration of this term fresh application is to be made for a 
 renewal. The tickets given to readers are not transferable, and no person can be 
 admitted without a ticket. Persons under 18 years of age are not admissible. 
 
 The Reader having ascertained from the Catalogue the book he requires, tran- 
 scribes literally into a printed form the press-mark, title of the work wanted, size, 
 place, and date, and signs the same. Readers, before leaving the room, are to 
 return the books or Mss. they have received to an attendant, and are to obtain 
 the corresponding ticket, the reader being responsible for such books or Mss. so 
 long as the ticket remains uncancelled. Readers are allowed to make one or 
 more extracts from any printed book or Ms. ; but no whole or greater part of a 
 Ms. is to be transcribed without a particular permission from the Trustees. The 
 transcribers are not to lay the papers on which they write on any part of the book 
 or Ms. they are using, nor are any tracings allowed without special leave of the 
 Trustees. No person is, on any pretence whatever, to write on any part of a printed 
 i book or Ms. belonging to the Museum. 
 
 The persons whose recommendations are accepted are Peers of the realm, Mem- 
 
 I bers of Parliament, Judges, Queen's Counsel, Masters in Chancery or any of the 
 
 I great law-officers of the Crown, any one of the 48 Trustees of the British Museum, 
 
 the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, rectors of parishes in the metropolis, 
 
 principals or heads of colleges, eminent physicians and surgeons, and Royal 
 
 Academicians, or any gentleman in superior post to an ordinary clerk in any of 
 
 the public offices. 
 
 MANUSCRIPTS ROOM. The Manuscripts are mostly boundin volumes, 
 and deposited in cases round the room, but some are kept in table- 
 cases ; and each collection is catalogued. The Cottonian Collection is 
 especially rich in historical documents from the Saxons to James I. ; 
 registries of English monasteries ; the charters of the Saxon Edgar and 
 King Henry 1. to Hyde Abbey, near Winchester, written in golden let- 
 ters ; and " the Durham Book," a copy of the Gospels in Latin, written 
 
526 CUPJOSITIES OF LONDOX. 
 
 about 800, splendidly illuminated in the style of the Anglo-Saxons by 
 the monks of Lindisfarne, and believed once to have belonged to the 
 Venerable Bede. The collection is rich also in roval and other original 
 letters. (See LIBRARIES, page 460.) The Harleian Collection abounds in 
 geographical and heraldic Mss. ; in visitations of counties, and English 
 topography; legal and parliamentary proceedings; abbey registers; 
 Mss. of the classics, including one of the earliest known of the Odyssey 
 of Homer; in missals, antiphonaries, and other service-books of the Ro- 
 mish Church; and in old English poetry. Also two very early copies 
 of the Latin Gospels, written in golden letters ; splendidly illuminated 
 MSS". ; an extensive mass of Correspondence ; nearly 300 Bibles and 
 biblical books, in the Chaldaic, Hebrew, Greek, Arabic, and Latin, in 
 manuscript ; nearly 200 volumes of the writings of the Fathers of the 
 Church; and works on the arts and sciences. Here is the oldest speci- 
 men of a Miracle-Play in English, of the earlier part of the reign of Ed- 
 ward III. The Sl>anean Collection consists chiefly of Mss. on natural 
 history, voyages, travels, and the arts, and also on medicine. It com- 
 prises the chief of Kcempfers Mss., with the voluminous medical collec- 
 tion of Sir Theodore Mayerne, and the annals of his practice at the 
 Court of England from 1611 to 1649 ; also scientific and medical Corre- 
 spondence, and historical Mss. The drawings of animals are beauti- 
 fully rich and accurate : two volumes on vellum, by Madame Merian, 
 contain the insects of Surinam. The Royal Mss. contain the collection 
 by our kings, from Richard II. to George II.; including the Codex 
 Alexandrinus, in 4 quarto volumes of fine vellum, written, probably, 
 between A.D. 300 and A.D.500, and presumed to be the most ancient 
 Mss. of the Greek Bible now extant in uncial character : it was a pre- 
 sent from Cyril, patriarch of Constantinople, to King Charles I. This 
 and other Mss. came into the royal possession at the destruction of 
 the monasteries. Old scholastic divinity abounds in the collection ; and 
 many of the volumes are superbly illuminated in a succession of periods 
 to the 16th century. Here also are several of the domestic music-books 
 of Henry VIII.; and the Basilicon Doron of James I. in his own 
 handwriting. The Lansdowne Collection, purchased in 1807 for 4925Z., 
 consists of the Burghley and Caesar papers; the Mss. of Bishop Ken- 
 nett; numerous valuable historical documents; and about 200 Chinese 
 drawings. Here are Hardyng's Chronicle, presented by the chronicler 
 to King Henry VI.; a copy of the very rare French version of the 
 Bible, upon vellum, translated by Raoul de Prede for Charles V. of 
 France ; also five volumes of Saxon homilies, transcribed by Mr. El- 
 stob and his sister : and a fac-simile of the Vatican Virgil, made by 
 Bartoli in 1642. The Hargreave Mss., added in 1813. contain, besides 
 early Law Reports, an abridgment of equity practice, in 45 volume>, by 
 Sir Thomas Sewell, Master of the Rolls. The Burney Mss., collected 
 by the Rev. Charles Burney, and purchased in 1818, consist chiefly of 
 the Greek and Latin classics, including the Towneley Homer, a Ms. 
 of the Iliad similar to that of the Odyssey in the Harleian collection 
 (cost 600 guineas) ; also two early Mss. of Greek rhetoricians ; a vo- 
 lume of the mathematical tracts of Pappus; and a magnificent Greek 
 Ms. of Ptolemy's Geography, enriched with maps of the loth century. 
 The Oriental Mss. include the valuable collection made by Mr. Rich 
 while consul at Bagdad, and comprising several Syriac copies of the 
 Scriptures ; also Arabic and Peruvian Mss. of great value, bequeathed 
 by Mr. J. F. Hull in 1827. Here also are Mss. of French History and 
 Literature, bequeathed by the Earl of Bridge water in 1829. The 
 Hoicard-Arundel Mss., acquired from the Royal Society in 1831, more i 
 than 500 volumes in every branch of learning." 
 
MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 527 
 
 The Ancient Rolls and Charters of the Museum, many thousands in 
 1 number, partly from the Cottonian, Harleian,and Sloanean collections, 
 | illustrative of English history, monastic and other property, are sepa- 
 ! rately catalogued. 
 
 Magnet Charta, if not the original, a copy made when King John's 
 I seal was affixed to it, was acquired by the British Museum with the 
 
 Cottonian Library. It was nearly destroyed in the fire at Westminster 
 I in 1731; the parchment is much shrivelled and mutilated, and the seal 
 (is reduced to an almost shapeless mass of wax. The Ms. was carefully 
 I lined and mounted ; and in 1733 an excellent fac-simile of it was pxib- 
 : lished by John Pine, surrounded by inaccurate representations of the 
 I armorial ensigns of the 25 barons appointed as securities for the due 
 
 performance of Magna Charta. An impression of this fac-simile, 
 (printed on vellum, with the arms carved and gilded, is placed opposite 
 j the Cottonian original of the Great Charter, which is now secured 
 I under glass. It is about 2 feet square, is written in Latin, and is quite 
 
 illegible. It is traditionally stated to have been bought for fourpence, 
 
 by Sir Robert Cotton, of a tailor, who was about to cut up the parch- 
 'ment into measures! But this anecdote, if true, ma}' refer to another 
 j copy of the Charter preserved at the British Museum, in a portfolio of 
 
 royal and ecclesiastical instruments, marked Augustus II. art. 106.; 
 ! and the original Charter is believed to have been presented to Sir Ro- 
 I bert Cotton by Sir Edward Dering, Lieut.-Governor of Dover Castle ; 
 ] and to be that referred to in a letter dated May 10, 1630, extant in the 
 | Museum Library, in the volume of Correspondence, Julius C. III. fol. 191. 
 
 The Commissioners on the Public Records regarded the original of Magna 
 j Charta preserved at Lincoln to be of superior authority to either of those in the 
 British Museum, on account of several words and sentences being inserted in the 
 bodv of that Charter, which in the latter are added at the foot, with reference- 
 marks to the four places where they were to be added. These notes, however, 
 possibly may prove that one of the Museum Charters was really the first written, 
 I to which those important additions were made immediately previous to the seal- 
 jlng on Runnemede, and therefore the actual original whence the more perfect 
 transcripts were taken. Richard Thomson, Author of An Historical Essay on 
 like Magna Charta of King John, #c. 1829. 
 
 In the Museum, also, is the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope Inno- 
 cent III. receiving the kingdoms of England and Ireland under his 
 protection, and granting them in fee to King John and his successors, 
 dated 1214, and reciting King John's charter of fealty to the Church of 
 
 , Rome, dated 1213. Also, the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope Leo X. 
 
 ; conferring the title of Defender of the Faith upon Henry V11I. 
 
 The Donation Manuscripts include Madox's collection for his His- 
 tory of the Exchequer; Rymer's materials for his Fcedera, used und un- 
 jused; the historical and biographical Mss. of Dr. Birch ; the Decisions 
 j of the Judges upon the Claims after the Great Fire of London in 
 1 1666 ; also Sir William Musgrave's Obituary ; Cole's collection for a 
 history of Cambridge and Cambridgeshire, and an Athense Canta- 
 ! brigienses : besides many Coptic and other ancient Mss. taken from the 
 French in Egypt; Ducarel's abstract of the Archiepiscopal Registers at 
 Lambeth Palace ; and a long series of calendars of the original rolls 
 from the 1st of Henry VIII. to the 2d of James I. Also Linacre's trans- 
 lation of Galen's Methodus Medendi, on spotless vellum ; the present- 
 ation copies of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey : the former illumi- 
 nated with the Royal arms, the latter with the Cardinal's hat. 
 
 Here is the Bible written by Alcuin for Charlemagne, large folio, 
 449 leaves of vellum, said to have occupied 20 years in transcribing, and 
 illuminated. Psalters of Henry VI. and Henry VIII. ; and Prayer- 
 
528 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 books of Lady Jane Grey and Queen Elizabeth. The Breviary of Isa- 
 bella of Castile, 1496-97; a profusely adorned specimen of Flemish and 
 Spanish art. The Bedford Missal, a Book of Hours, written and sump- 
 tuously illuminated in France for the Regent, John Duke of Bedford, 
 and his Duchess, Anne of Burgundy, between 1423 and 1430. Ms. of 
 Valerius Maximus, splendidly illuminated. Original Letters of all the 
 great Reformers; the English Kings; and Poets and Philosophers. 
 The Ms. of "paper-sparing" Pope's Homer, written on the backs and 
 covers of letters. Three original assignments : Milton's Paradise Lost 
 to Symmons ; Dryden's Virgil to Tonson ; and Goldsmith's History of 
 Eminent Persons' to Dodsley. Selections from the Rupert and Fairfax 
 correspondence, 1640-49, including letters of Charles I., Charles II., 
 Fairfax, and Hyde (Lord Clarendon). The original marriage-contract 
 of Charles I. when Prince of Wales. The pocket-book taken from the 
 Duke of Monmouth after the battle of Sedgmoor, certified in the hand- 
 writing of James II. 
 
 Papyri. In the Egyptian Room is a framed specimen of this style of 
 writing ; and among the Mss. is a Greek papyrus, probably of B. c. 
 135, containing the translation of a deed of sale ; and a book of sheets 
 of papyrus sewn together, brought from Egypt, and bearing a copy in 
 Greek of part of the Psalms of David. Several Egyptian papyri, writ- 
 ten in the hieroglyphical, hieratical, enchorial, or demotic character, 
 framed and glazed, are arranged in the passage leading to the Print Room. 
 
 THE PRINT ROOM has only been an independent department since 
 1837. In 1836 was purchased from the Messrs. Smith, the Dutch and 
 Flemish portions of Mr. Sheepshanks 's collection for 5000/. Valuable 
 additions have since been made, and the Print Room now contains the 
 most perfect collection known of the works of the Engravers of the early 
 Italian, German, Dutch, and Flemish Schools. Among the Curiosities 
 are, in the Early Italian School, an engraved silver plate (a Roman Ca- 
 tholic Pax), by Maso Finiguerra, 3 inches high by 2J inches wide, sold 
 in 1824 for 300 guineas. An impressionin sulphur,"a similar subject, the 
 first step in the discovery of this branch of printing, cost 250 guineas. 
 Another similar subject, printed on paper, probably the earliest exemplar 
 known, cost 300 guineas. Specimens of this description are much more 
 numerous in the British Museum than in all other collections combined. 
 Early German School: works of F. Van Bocholt (1466J, Martin 
 Schoengauer, Israel Van Meeken, Albert Durer (a beautiful series, in- 
 cluding some unfinished plates), Lucas Van Leyden, &c. Dutch and 
 Flemish Schools : works of Rembrandt, worth probably from 15,000/. 
 to 20,OOOZ. ; the large portrait of the Dutch writing-master Coppenal 
 is valued at 500 guineas. French School : an admirable series of etch- 
 ings by the hand of Claude. English School: works of Sir Robert 
 Strange and Woollett ; prints after the pictures of Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds, West, and Sir Thomas Lawrence ; 4000 prints after Stothard. 
 
 The Print Room also contains an excellent representative series 
 illustrative of Mezzotint Engraving : specimens by the inventor, Count 
 Siegen, and by its earliest practisers, Prince Rupert, the Canon Fus- 
 tenberg, &c., are remarkably fine and numerous. Also, an extensive 
 series of British Portraits and British Topography. Some thousand 
 drawings and prints collected and bequeathed by Mr. Crowle, cost up- 
 wards of 7000?., including some of Turner's earliest drawings. Ori- 
 ginal Drawings by Raphael, Albert Durer, Holbein, Rembrandt, 
 Vandyke ; and some beautiful designs by Claude, a portion of his 
 Liber Veritatis. Here are the finest specimens in the world of Ostade 
 and Backhuysen ; cost 200 guineas each. In an adjoining room is a 
 small selection of the most capital drawings, framed and glazed. In 
 
MUSEUMS. 529 
 
 jthe Print Room, also, is a carving in hone-stone (Birth of John the 
 i Baptist) by Albert Durer, dated 1510, a wonderful cutting in high 
 rrelief, which cost 500 guineas ; also, a beautifully chased silver Cup, at- 
 rtributed to Benvenuto Cellini. The whole contents of the Print Room 
 lore worth considerably more than 100,000/. They can only be seen 
 roy very few persons at a time, and by particular permission. 
 
 The first Keeper of the Prints was Mr. Alexander, so well known for his Views 
 land Costumes of China. He was succeeded by Mr. J. T. Smith, the eminent topo- 
 grapher, and author of the amusing Life and Times of Nollekens. Mr. Young 
 lOttley, the eminent collector, and author of the Early History of Engraving, was 
 this successor ; and he was followed by Mr. Henry Jozi, to whose energy a large 
 [amount of the present prosperity of this department is due. On his decease in 
 1845, the post was given to Mr. Carpenter, F.S.A., the present Keeper, to whose at- 
 kainments and kindness all visitors to the Print Room will bear ample testimony. 
 Here are a few small portraits : viz. Geoffrey Chaucer, 1400, a small 
 [whole-length on panel; a limning of Frederic III. of Saxony, by 
 tL. Cranach ; Moliere ; Corneille; and an unknown head by Dobson, 
 all on panel; with the portrait of a Pope or Cardinal. 
 
 The public are admitted to the collections of Zoology, Minerals, and Antiqui- 
 [ties on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, between the hours of 10 and 4 during 
 November. December, January, and February; from 10 till 5 during September, 
 October, March, and April; and from 10 till 6 from the 7th of May to the 1st of 
 September. 
 
 The Museum is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, the 1st to the 7th of 
 May, and the 1st to the 7th of September inclusive; on Ash-Wednesday, Good 
 Friday, and Christmas-day; and also on any special fast or thanksgiving days. 
 
 A list of Descriptive Catalogues, &c. published by the British Mu.-eum is ap- 
 pended to the Synopsis; with a list of the prices of casts from ancient marbles, 
 bronzes, &c. in the Museum. 
 
 A list of objects added to the several collections in each year is printed in the 
 Parliamentary Return, usually in April or May. 
 
 MUSEUMS. 
 
 ADELAIDE GALLERY or PRACTICAL SCIENCE (the), Agar-street, 
 Strand, was built by Jacob Perkins, the engineer, and opened by a Society 
 in 1832, for the exhibition of Models of Inventions, works of Art, and 
 specimens of Novel Manufacture. Here, in a canal, 70 feet long, and 
 containing 6000 gallons of water, were shewn steamboat models, with 
 clock-work machinery ; experimental steam-paddles ; lighthouse models, 
 &c. Next were exhibited the combustion of the hardest steel ; the com- 
 pression of water; a mouse in a diving-bell; steam sugar-mill and gas- 
 cooking apparatus ; a model of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway ; 
 electro-magnets ; a mechanical trumpet ; a magic bust ; models, from the 
 Temples of Egypt to the Thames Tunnel; looms at work; mummy- 
 cloth 2000 years old; and Carey's Oxy-hydrogen Microscope, shewn on 
 a disc 17 feet diameter ; automatic ship and sea, &c. 
 
 Here Perkins's Steam-Gun was exhibited, propelling balls with four times 
 greater force than that of gunpowder, the steam being raised to from 300 to 
 500 Ibs. to the square inch; and the balls, on reaching the cast-iron target, fired 
 at a distance ot 100 feet, were reduced to the substance of tin-foil. It was pos- 
 sible to propel 420 balls in a minute, or 25,200 balls in an hour; and the gun was 
 promised to mow down a regiment in less than ten minutes ! The Duke of 
 Wellington predicted its failure in warfare. 
 
 A living Electrical .Ee/(Gymnotus) was brought here from South America in 
 1838 ; its length was 40 inches, and it resembled in appearance dark puce and 
 brown plush. Professor Faraday obtained from it a most intense electric spark; 
 and by one shock not only was the needle of a galvanometer deflected, but chemical 
 action and magnetic induction were obtained. The eel died March 14, 1842. 
 
 In 1776, a living Gymnotus was exhibited in London, 5s. each visitor. 
 
 ANATOMICAL MUSEUMS, mostly from the Continent, are often exhi- 
 bited in London ; of which Dr. Kahn's collection, shewn at the Portland 
 
530 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Gallery in 1853, may be taken as a specimen. It was arranged in three 
 apartments, one exclusively for medical and scientific men. The oti^B 
 rooms contained physiological subjects, beginning with the development 
 of the human form, and shewing the growth of the bones, the process 
 of dentition, &c. The five senses were delineated by dissections ; compa- 
 rative anatomy in soecimens of brain, human and animal ; the tempera- 
 ments were exhibited by heads moulded and coloured, so as to repreaeJB 
 the sanguineous, phlegmatic, bilious, &c. A long range of heads < 
 hibited all the known varieties of countenance and frontal development 
 of the different races of humanity. Here were also microscopic spe- 
 cimens of embryology ; diseases of distortion and of anomalous grovel 
 represented. the most remarkable being that of Madame DimM^H 
 who, at the age of 80, had a horn 10 inches long extracted from her 
 forehead, and lived seven years after. 
 
 , SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, Somerset House, contains Egj 
 tian, Greek, and Etruscan antiquities ; Roman antiquities, mostly a^H 
 in Britain ; British and Anglo- Roman remains ; hair of Edward IV., and 
 fragment of his queen's (Elizabeth) coffin ; dagger, &c. found near the 
 site of Sir W. "Wai worth's residence; stone-shot from the Tower moat; 
 brass-gilt spur from Towton battle-field; reputed sword of Cromwell; 
 Bohemian astronomical clock, 1525; presumed Caxton woodcut-block; 
 matrices of medieval seals ; decorative tiles found in London ; coins, 
 medals, and provincial tokens ; Worcester Clothiers' Company's paD, 
 and human skin from the doors of "Worcester Cathedral : West Indian 
 antiquities and curiosities ; geological specimens (elephant's fossil teeta 
 from Pall Mall; ; Porter's map of London (Charles I.). 
 
 Amongthe old pictures are, a " Greek Paynting on -wood;" portraits of HenrtH 
 Edward IV., Henry VII. ; foldinp picture of Preaching at Paul's Cross, andlfl 
 cession of James I., 1616; the Fire of London, from near the Temple; 2 
 pictures (Kerrick's); portraits of Edward IV., Richard IJI , Henry VI. 
 VIII., Man- 1., &c. Drawings of ancient mural paintings in St. Stephen's 
 Westminster (see Catalogue, by A. Way, F.S.A.); portraits of distinguished^! 
 tiquaries; the very curious prescriptions ordered lor Charles II. on hie Oe^H 
 bed, signed by 16 doctors (Medicorum Chorus), the names, according to 
 quette, being written at full-length, and not, as ordinarily indicated, by imH 
 only. Among "the Milton Papers" preserved here is the signature of Ji 
 Bunyan to a memorial to Cromwell and the Council of the Army, dated 
 a collection of Antiquities from Ithaca; and a valuable Regulator, preser 
 B L. Vulliaroy, and made by his great-grandfather and grandfather, the 
 clockmaker to King George II. 
 
 The Society of Antiquaries was founded in 1707, by Wanley, Bag- 
 ford, and others, at the Bear Tavern, Strand; removed to the' Young 
 Devil Tavern, Fleet-street; and next to the Fountain, where their plan 
 was drawn out by Humphrey Wanley; refounded 1717; removed suc- 
 cessively to Gray's Inn ; the Temple; the Mitre, Fleet-street ; and their 
 house, Chancery-lane, whence they removed to apartments in Somerset 
 Place, granted them by George III., 1781. The Society's gilt- iron mace 
 was presented by Vertue, 1735-6. Charter granted bv George IL, 
 1751. The College of Antiquaries, founded in 1572, by Archbishop 
 Parker and Sir Robert Cotton, was dissolved by James L in 1604, 
 
 ANTIQUITIES, LONDON, 5 Liverpool-street, City. This extensive 
 collection of Roman and Mediaeval relics has been made, within the last 
 fifteen years, by Mr. C. Roach Smith, F.SA. It consists chiefly of objects 
 illustrative of the domestic and social life and customs of the inhabitants 
 of London in the time of the Romans and during the middle ages. In 
 the first of these divisions are a bronze shield and weapons from the 
 Thames ; remarkably fine bronze statuettes of Apollo and Mercury ; a 
 l>ronze hand of colossal size ; a pair of forceps elaborately decorated with 
 i>ust of gods and goddesses, and with heads of animals j au extensive 
 
MUSEUMS. 531 
 
 j series of fictile vessels, among which are embossed red bowls and vases 
 I of great beauty and rarity; wall-paintings from houses, and tiles for 
 conducting the heated air to the apartments ; flat glass, such as the 
 I Romans, or their predecessors, used for windows; also other Roman 
 i glass. Some of the tiles used in the buildings are stamped PR. BRIT. LON., 
 j and are remarkable as presenting, perhaps, the earliest example extant 
 I of an abbreviation of the word Londinium, now London. The leather 
 j sandals are rare and curious specimens of Roman costume. Steel styli 
 for writing, personal ornaments, and many examples of coloured and 
 ornamented glass, are also worthy of reference; while the coins, chiefly 
 from the Thames, include rare types. Of the later antiquities, the Saxon 
 knives, swords, and spears present some uncommon examples. There is 
 also a rival to the celebrated Alfred Jewel in the Ashmolean Museum at 
 Oxford, in an ouche, or brooch, of gold filagree-work, set with pearls 
 and enclosing a portrait of a regal personage, or possibly a saint, exqui- 
 sitely worked in opaque, coloured, vitreous pastes. This valuable relic, 
 and some Norman bowls in bronze, preserved in this collection, have 
 been engraved in the Archceologia. Bone skates curiously illustrate Fitz- 
 Btephen's account of an old City pastime, as practised on the ice on the 
 site of Moorfields ; and the cuir bouilli, or stamped leather, shows how 
 artistically this useful material was worked in the middle ages. The shoes 
 of the time of Edward III. and Richard II. are elegant in their orna- 
 mentation ; and one is covered with mottoes in Latin and in Norman 
 French, and with designs of groups of figures. The Pilgrims' Signs, 
 in lead, form an almost unique series, illustrative of an old religious 
 observance ; and there are some fine early leaden Tokens of London 
 tradesmen. A few of the objects have been engraved in the Collectanea 
 Antiqua; and an illustrated Catalogue of the whole has been printed. 
 Mr. Roach Smith grants full and free access to his collections, under 
 the easy condition of appointment. 
 
 The Private Museum of Mr. W. Chaffers, F.S.A., 20 Old Bond- 
 street, contains more than 1000 specimens discovered in London exca- 
 vations. Here is a bronze archer with silver eyes, found in Queen- 
 Btreet, Cheapside, in 1842, and described in the Archcsologia, vol. xxx. pp. 
 543-4. In this collection, also, are Roman amphora; ; funeral urns and 
 bones ; vases and Samian drinking-cups, with Roman designs ; Roman 
 tiles and pavement, and frescoes ; fibula-, rings, pins, beads, and buckles ; 
 strigils, spoons, keys, spear-heads; bronze Penates; terra-cotta lamps; 
 Roman glass, and Saxon and early English drinking -vessels; coins, 
 medals, &c. (See also Mr. SAULL'S MUSEUM, page 542.) 
 
 ARCHAEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION AND INSTITUTE. (Pee page 18.) 
 Neither of these Societies possesses a Museum of noteworthy specimens. 
 The Institute has presented its principal articles to the British Museum, 
 for the room of British Antiquities. Each Society, however, assembles 
 a Museum from the city or town wherein is held its annual meeting. 
 
 At the Rooms of the Archaeological Institute, 26 Suffolk-street, in 1853, was 
 exhibited the Fejeveray Museum, illustrative of the history of Art, and consisting 
 of Egyptian remains, purely artistic; Etruscan remains, principally in bronze; 
 engraved gems; Egyptian, Assyrian, Babylonian, ancient Persian, Etruscan, 
 Greek, and Roman remains. The collection comprises also a noble set of Ma- 
 jolica ware, twenty-five pieces in number, two painted by Georgio, two others by 
 Sante, and several after designs by P. Francia; a very curious case of niello-work, 
 one piece of which belonged to Luigi Sforza, Duke of Milan; many curious terra- 
 cottas; some striking Byzantine objects; artistic antiquities illustrative of art in 
 Hindostan, China, Persia, &c. &c. ; a mass of Celtic objects ; and a rare assemblage 
 of Hungarian, Transylvanian, and Sclavic coins. 
 
 ARCHITECTS, BRITISH, ROYAL INSTITUTE MUSEUM, 16 Lower 
 
532 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Grosvenor-street, contains a series of busts and portraits of architects, 
 and an original statuette in terra-cotta of Inigo Jones, by Rysbrack; 
 medals, &c. of Schadow and Perrier ; examples of Continental marbles; 
 two flutes of the Parthenon ; "growing stone" from Hieropolis ; aurife- 
 rous quartz from California; building-stones, including 117 specimens 
 whence was chosen the stone for the New Palace at "Westminster; 
 casts of ornaments from ancient and mediaeval buildings; models of 
 public buildings, roofs, and scaffoldings; and apparatus for painting 
 the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, &c. 
 
 ARCHITECTUBAL MUSEUM (the),Canon-row,Westminster, originated 
 by Mr. G. G. Scott, F.S.A., was opened in 1853, as an exhibition and 
 study for workmen sketching and modelling, in connexion with a School 
 of Art for Architectural Workmen. The leading objects of this Mu- 
 seum are plaster casts of foliage, figures, &c.; casts or impressions of 
 ancient seals or gems; tracings of stained glass, wall decorations, orna- 
 mental pavements, &c. ; rubbings of brasses and incised stones; speci- 
 mens or casts of ancient metal-work and pottery ; photographs, or 
 other faithful drawings; architectural books, prints, &c. Here are casts 
 from effigies in our Cathedrals, Westminster Abbey, and a beautiful 
 selection from the Chapter House; panels from the Baptistery gates at 
 Florence ; figures and details from the French Cathedrals, casts from 
 Venice, &c. The Museum is supported by architects, builders, and 
 sculptors; and small subscriptions from students, carvers, and other 
 artist- workmen. 
 
 ASIATIC SOCIETY (ROYAL), 5 New Burlington-street. This Museum 
 contains oriental coins and medals, marbles and inscriptions ; armour 
 and weapons, including Malay and Ceylonese spears, and an entire suit 
 of Persian armour; Ceylonese jingals, and Hindoo statues. The public 
 are admitted on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, by Members' tickets. 
 
 AUTOGRAPHS. The collections in the metropolis are too numerous 
 for us to detail. Mr. Robert Cole, 52 Upper Norton-street, Portland- 
 place, has assembled nearly 200 volumes of Mss. and Original Letters, 
 which may be seen by previous introduction and arrangement. These 
 include Queen Caroline : Her Letters to Lady Anne Hamilton ; the draft 
 of the Queen's Letter to George IV., claiming the right to be crowned 
 with him : the Narrative of her sojourn on the Continent, from her leav- 
 ing England to her return as Queen, the whole autograph, continued by 
 Lady Anne Hamilton to the Queen's death in 1821. Also, a mass of 
 Letters and Poetry inscribed to the Queen ; and many of the original 
 Addresses presented at Brandenburgh House, with drafts of the replies, 
 in Dr. Robert Fellowes's handwriting. Several hundred Letters from 
 "the Princess Olive of Cumberland." Nell Gicyn: Treasury order for 
 payment of Annuity to Nell; her signature E. G. to receipts; her power 
 of attorney to Fraser, signed E. G., and witnessed by Thomas Otway, 
 the poet. Nell's apothecary's bill, and many accounts for silks and 
 satins, hay and corn, ale, spirits, &c. supplied to her. Lewis Paul: 
 his papers and Cotton-manufacture Patents, granted many years before 
 Arkwright's; proving that Paul was the original inventor of Cotton- 
 spinning Machinery. Regalia of Charles II. : Papers relating to 
 those made for his coronation. Flora Macdonald : her only known 
 letter. Nelson : the introduction letter ; the gunner's expense-book 
 at the battle of St. Vincent, signed by Nelson. The original Jubilee 
 Address of the Royal Academy to George III., signed by all the Members. 
 Also, Letters, &c. of James Watt and John Rennie, James Barry, &c.* 
 
 BOTANICAL SOCIETY, 20 Bedford-street, Covent Garden, has an 
 extensive herbarium, open to members and other botanists, on Friday 
 
 * Among the Dealers in Autographs are Waller and Son, 188 Fleet-street. 
 
MUSEUMS. 533 
 
 evening, to facilitate the exchange of British and foreign specimens in 
 forming herbaria. 
 
 BROOKES'S MUSEUM, Blenheim-street, in the rear of 13 Great 
 Marlborough- street (late Colburn the publisher's), was a fine anato- 
 jmical collection of more than 6000 preparations, models, and casts, 
 made by Joshua Brookes, F.R.S., during thirty years. The greater 
 part was sold in 1828. Brookes was for more than forty years a dis- 
 tinguished teacher of anatomy, and had 7000 pupils; yet he died in 
 comparative poverty, and in despondency at the dispersion of his 
 museum. 
 
 BULLOCK'S MUSEUM. (See EGYPTIAN HALL, page 266.) 
 CIVIL ENGINEERS, INSTITUTION OF (THE), 24 Great George-street, 
 "Westminster, formerly possessed a museum of models and specimens, 
 which, on the extension of the library and theatre, were distributed 
 among other scientific societies ; but at the annual Conversazione of 
 the President of the Institution is assembled a large collection of work- 
 ing models of new machinery, works of art, and specimens of manufac- 
 ture. In the theatre are portraits of Thomas Telford and of succeeding 
 presidents of the Institution. (See LIBRARIES, page 459.) 
 
 The Institution of Civil Engineers first, met at the King's Head Tavern, Poul- 
 try, Jan. 2, 1818 ; and was incorporated 1828. Telford bequeathed to the Society 
 a large portion of his library, professional papers, and drawings; and a con- 
 siderable sura of money, the interest to be expended in annual premiums. 
 Mr. Charles Manby, F.R.S., Secretary, Resident Librarian, and Curator. 
 
 COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS' (ROYAL) MUSEUM, Pall Mall East, con- 
 tains the very curious preparations which Harvey either made at Padua, 
 or procured from that celebrated school of medicine. They consist of 
 | six tables or boards, upon which are spread the different nerves and 
 blood-vessels, carefully dissected out of the body : in one of them are 
 the semilunar valves of the aorta, which, placed at the origin of the 
 arteries, must, together with the valves of the veins, have furnished 
 Harvey with the most conclusive arguments in support of his novel 
 doctrines of the Circulation of the Blood. Of the lectures which he 
 read to the College in 1616, the original Mss. are preserved in the 
 British Museum. The above preparations were presented to the Col- 
 lege, in 1823, by the late Earl of Winchilsea, the direct descendant of 
 Lord Chancellor Nottingham, who married Harvey's niece, and pos- 
 | sessed his property. Here also is Dr. Matthew Baillie's entire collec- 
 tion of anatomical preparations, mostly put up by his own hands, and 
 from which his great work on anatomy is illustrated. Like Harvey, 
 Baillie gave this collection in his lifetime (1819). The latter were 
 restored in 1851 by Mr. G. E. Blenkins, whom the College presented 
 with a silver inkstand and a purse of fifty guineas. Here also is a 
 gold-headed cane, which had been successively carried by Drs. Rad- 
 cliffe, Mead, Askew, Pitcairn, and Baillie, whose arms are engraved on 
 the head: presented by Mrs. Baillie. Among the Mss. is Bustorum 
 aliquot Reliquice, Baldwin Harvey's account of his contemporaries, and 
 the amount of their fees; and in the library are Harvey's Ms. notes 
 and criticisms upon Aristophanes. Admission by a Physician's order. 
 
 COLLEGE OF SURGEONS' (ROYAL) MUSEUM, Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 was commenced with the collection of John Hunter, of specimens in 
 natural history, comparative anatomy, physiology, and pathology, pur- 
 chased by the Corporation of Surgeons, and first opened in 1813 ; 
 greatly enlarged in 1836, and again in 1853. The total number of 
 specimens is 23,000, of which 10,000 belonged to Hunter's original 
 museum, the remainder having since been added. There are elaborate 
 catalogues of the whole : arranged in " the Physiological Department, 
 or Normal Structures j" and " the Pathological'Department, or Abnor- 
 
534 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 mal Structures." Besides the anatomical preparations are the following 
 Curiosities: fossil shell of a gigantic extinct armadillo; fossil skeleton 
 of the mylodon, a large extinct sloth from Buenos Aj'res ; skeleton of 
 a hippopotamus ; bones of the pelvis, tail, and left hind-leg of the mighty 
 megatherium; skeleton (8 ft. high) of Charles O'Brian, the Irish giant, 
 who died in 1783, aged twenty-two ; skeleton (20 in. high) of Caroline 
 Crachami, the Sicilian dwarf, who died in 1824, aged ten years ; plaster 
 casts of hand of Patrick Cotter, another Irish giant, 8 ft. 7 in. high; 
 and hand of M. Louis, a French giant, 7 ft. 4 in. high ; glove of O'Brian; 
 plaster casts of bones of the extinct bird, the dinornis giganteus of New- 
 Zealand, which must have stood 10 ft. high ; skeleton of the gigantic 
 extinct deer, exhumed from beneath a peat-bog near Limerick (span 
 of antlers, 8 ft. ; length of antler, 7 ft. 3 in. ; height of skull, 7 ft. 6 in.) ; 
 great penguin from the southernmost point touched by Sir James Ross; 
 skeleton of the giraffe ; skeleton of the Indian elephant Chunee, pur- 
 chased for 900 guineas, in 1810, to appear in processions on Covent 
 Garden Theatre stage, and subsequently sold to Mr. Cross at Exeter 
 Change, where it was shot in 1826, during an annual paroxysm, aggra- 
 vated by inflammation of one of the tusks, but not killed until it had 
 received more than 100 bullets (see Hone's Every-day Book, vol. i.) : 
 the skeleton was sold for 100 guineas : the head is 13 ft. from the 
 ground ; the bones weighed 876 Ibs., the skin 17 cwt. Plaster cast of 
 a young negro, and a bust of John Hunter, by Flaxman ; skeleton of a 
 man who died from water on the brain, skull 48 in. in circumference ; 
 skulls of a double-headed child, born in Bengal, who lived to be four 
 years old, when it was killed by the bite of a cobra di capello : the 
 skulls are united by their crowns, the upper head being inverted ; it 
 had four eyes, which moved in different directions at the same time, 
 and the superior eyelids never thoroughly closed, even when the child 
 was asleep. Skeleton, whose joints are anchylosed, or rendered immov- 
 able, by unnatural splints of bone growing out in all directions. " The 
 shaft case :" the chest of a man impaled by the shaft of a chaise, the 
 first tug-hook also penetrating the chest, and wounding the left lung ; 
 the patient recovered, and survived the injury eleven years : the pre- 
 paration of the chest is side by side with' the shaft. Iron pivot of a 
 try-sail, which, in the London Docks, Feb. 26, 1831, was driven through 
 the body of John Taylor, a seaman, and passed obliquely through the 
 heart and left lung, pinning him to the deck ; the try- sail mast 39 ft. long, 
 and 600 Ibs. weight : Taylor was carried to the London Hospital, where 
 he recovered in five months, so as to walk from the hospital to the 
 College and back again, and he ultimately returned to his duties as a 
 seaman. Wax cast of the band uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. 
 Among the mummies is the first wife of the late Martin van Butchell; 
 and a female who died of consumption in 1775, the vessels and viscera 
 injected with camphor and turpentine. Also a sitting mummy, sup- 
 posed of a Peruvian nobleman, who immolated himself with his wife 
 and child some centuries ago. Since 1835, Professor Owen, F.R.S., 
 has been Conservator of the Museum, and the catalogues have been 
 prepared by him. Here are : 
 
 Twelve wax models of the anatomy of the Cramp-fish ( Torpedo galvanii), pre- 
 sented by Professor Owen. 
 
 Fossil Bones of the Dinornis, or extinct gigantic wingless Bird of New Zea- 
 land (tibia 3 feet in length). 
 
 Coloured casts of the Eggs of the gigantic extinct Bird of Madagascar (sEpy- 
 ornis), supposed the original Hoc of Arabian romance. One egg contains the 
 matter of 12 ostrich-eggs, 140 hen's-eggs, and 10,000 humming-bird's eggs. 
 
 Skeleton of the Skulls of the great Chimpanzee (Troloydyfes gorilla). This 
 animal is upwards of 5 feet high, of prodigious muscular strength, and much 
 dreaded by the Negroes of the West coast of Tropical Africa. 
 
MUSEUMS. 535 
 
 A Series of prepared Skulls of different classes of Animals, illustrative of Pro- 
 fessor Owen's " Archeiype of the Verttbrate Skeleton " 
 
 Skeleton of male Boschman (diminutive Hottentot); and plaster casts of the 
 male and female, from life. 
 
 Here, too, are some preparations similar to those of Harvey in the 
 College of Physicians; they originally belonged to the Museum of the 
 Royal Society, kept at Gresham College, and were the gift of John 
 Evelyn, who bought them at Padua, where he saw them taken out of 
 the body of a man, and very curiously spread upon four large tables : 
 they were the work of Fabritius Bartoletus, then Veslingius's assistant. 
 
 The Museum is open to Fellows and Members of the College," ?nd to visitors 
 introduced by them, or by -written orders (not transferable), on Mondays, Tues- 
 days, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from twelve to four o'clock; on Fridays it is 
 open only for the purposes of study. The arrangements for the admission of 
 learned and scientific foreigners, state-officers, church and law dignitaries, and 
 members of scientific bodies, are liberal and judicious. 
 
 CORPORATION MUSEUM, Guildhall, contains the relics of Roman 
 London discovered in excavating for the foundation of the Royal Ex- 
 change, arranged by Mr. Tite, F.R.S. : 1. Pottery and glass: moulded 
 articles, bricks and tiles ; jars, urns, vases, amphorae ; terra-cotta 
 lamps ; Saniian ware ; potters' marks ; glass. 2. Writing materials : 
 tablets, and styles in iron, brass, bone, and wood. 3. Miscellaneous : 
 domestic articles; artificers' tools; leather manufactures. 4. Coins, 
 of copper, yellow brass, silver, and silver-plated brass, of Augustus, 
 Tiberius, Claudius, Nero, Vespasian, Domitian, &c. ; Henry IV. of 
 England, Elizabeth, &c. ; foreign, Flemish, German, Prussian, Danish, 
 Dutch. 5. Horns, shells, bones, and vegetable remains. 6. Antiquities 
 and articles of later date. The Catalogue, printed for the Corporation 
 in 1846, is scarce. Here, also, is the City charter (William I.) : the Shak- 
 speare deed of sale,* &c. (See LIBRARIES, page 460.) 
 
 Here is a Cabinet of the London Traders', Tavern, and Coffee- 
 house Tokens current in the 17th century, presented to the Corpo- 
 ration Library by Henry Benjamin Hanbury Beaufoy, citizen and dis- 
 tiller. They consist of Tokens of iron, lead,'tin, brass, copper, and lea- 
 ther, and 9 Royal (Copper) Farthing Tokens; in all 1174. The Leaden 
 Tokens were issued anterior to 1649, and the others from 1649 till 1672, 
 by traders of the City, as small change and advertisement ; each Token 
 generally bearing the name, residence, and sign of the house; the index 
 of them being a record of the olden topography and history of London, 
 and a Key to streets and localities long lost. Here is the Token struck 
 by Farr, of the Rainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, which escaped the 
 Great Fire of 1666; and the Tokens of the Turk's Head, in Change- 
 alley ; and the Boar's Head Tavern, Eastcheap. 
 
 A Descriptive Catalogue of these Tokens, with historical notes, 
 edited by Jacob Henry Burn, was printed for the Corporation in 1853. 
 
 * The most important fact of the town property of Shakspeare is that first 
 pointed out by Mr. Halliwell in his 8vo Life of the Poet; viz. that the house pur- 
 chased by him of Henry Walker, in March 1612-13, and the counterpart of the 
 conveyance of which is preserved in the Guildhall Library, with Shakspeare's 
 signature attached, and which is described there as "abutting upon a streete 
 leading doune to Pudle Wharfe ( Blackfriers) in the east part right against the 
 Kinges Majesties Wardrobe," is still identified, or rather sheltered, in the 
 churchyard of St. Andrew's there. The very house was, most probably, destroyed 
 in the Great Fire of 1666; but the house stands on its proper spot; and until 
 within these few years, it had been tenanted by the Robinson family, to whom 
 Shakspeare leased it. Close behind this house, in Great Carter-lane, stood the 
 Old Bell Inn, mentioned in a letter addressed to Shakspeare (see page 396); and 
 the poet was probably often in this house, the site of which was noted, after the 
 destruction of the original building, by a richly-sculptured bell, dated 1687, and 
 still affixed to the front of a house iu Great Carter-lane, on the north side. 
 
536 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 COTTINGHAM MUSEUM, 43 Waterloo-bridge-road, Lambeth, col- 
 lected by the late S. N. Cottingham, the architect, contained about 
 31,000 specimens of Domestic and Ecclesiastical Architecture, Sculpture, 
 and Furniture ; a complete series of studies from the Norman period to 
 the close of the reign of Elizabeth. Here was an Elizabethan ante- 
 room and parlour, with a pair of enameled fire-dogs, once Sir Thomas 
 More's ; a ceiling from Bishop Bonner's palace, Lambeth ; busts of Eliza- 
 beth, Mary Queen of Scots, Raleigh, and Burghley ; ebony table from 
 Norwich ; Queen Anne Boleyn's sofa, from the Tower; a gallery had 
 a ceiling from the council-chamber of Crosby Place, temp. Richard II. 
 (see page 239) ; perforated Spanish brass lantern-chandelier, temp. Henry 
 VII. ; Spanish pattern lantern, date 1600 ; fireplace from the Star-cham- 
 ber, Westminster; figures of saints and bishcps, and busts of English 
 monarchs ; Flemish oak screen (1490), carved with the history of our 
 Lord, and figures in niches, richly painted and gilt ; a reliquary, sixteenth 
 century, painted and carved; cabinet with ceiling (Henry VII.), and 
 decorated window painted with Henry VII. and his queen ; models and 
 casts of tombs of the children of Edward III., William of Windsor, and 
 Blanche de la Tour ; a gallery with ceiling, Henry VI. ; oak panelling 
 from the palace of Layer Marney, Essex ; facsimile of doorway, Roches- 
 ter Cathedral ; altar and altar-piece, with canopied figures ; ancient 
 stall-seats (thirteenth century) ; throne, and figures ; grand figures of 
 the Virgin, Mary Magdalen, &c. ; splendid facsimiles of lofty tombs, 
 with recumbent effigies ; seven rooms filled with models and casts ; 
 branches, with prickets for candles, temp. Henry V. ; supposed canopy 
 of Chaucer's tomb ; marble keystone mask from Pompeii ; cast from 
 the Stratford bust of Shakspeare ; fragments from Hever Castle, St. 
 Katherine's-at-the-Tower, the palace and abbey at Westminster, <fcc. ; 
 processional cross from Glastonbury Abbey, &c. The collection, sold 
 by auction in 2205 lots, Nov. 1851, produced but 2009/. 135. 6d., being 
 depreciated at least fifty per cent by this dispersion. The collection is 
 described in an illustrated Catalogue, by Henry Shaw, F.S.A. 
 
 CUMINGIAN MUSEUM, 80, Gower-street, Bedford-square, collected 
 by Mr. Hugh Cuming, contains upwards of 124,000 species and va- 
 rieties, including 68,000 specimens of Shells; besides Genera in spirits, 
 with the animals carefully preserved ; from Patagonia, Chili, Peru, Co- 
 lumbia, Central America, the Gallapagos Islands, Sumatra, the Ma- 
 layan Peninsula, Java, the Philippines, and the South Pacific Islands. 
 
 In the luxuriant forests, on the arid plains, the mountain-sides, the sheltered 
 "bays and rocky shores of these countries, and by exploring the floor of the ocean, 
 species of Mollusca, hitherto imperfectly known, were found in abundance, and 
 numerous forms were discovered entirely new to science; entitling Mr. Cuming 
 to rank with Sloane, Hunter, and Montague. The collection may be seen by 
 persons interested in Conchology, and by scientific men generally, on application. 
 
 EAST INDIA COMPANY'S MUSEUM, India House, Leadenhall- street, 
 contains the Babylonian inscriptions, in the Persepolitan character, 
 collected by Sir Harford Jones at Bagdad ; and a fragment of jasper, 
 two feet long, inscribed with characters. Here is also a collection of 
 Hindoo and other idols, oriental arms and ornaments, and relics and 
 curiosities of the Topes of Aft'ghanistan ; models of Chinese villas; 
 Indian, Malay, Javanese, and Abyssinian dresses, arms, and ornaments ; 
 models of boats, various instruments, the city of Lahore, and figures 
 characteristic of the people of India and other Asiatic nations. The 
 trophies taken from Tippoo Saib standards, pieces of armour, helmets, 
 and the golden footstool of his throne ; his mantle, rendered invulnerable 
 by dipping in the well at Mecca; "Tippoo's tiger," a piece of me- 
 chanism tearing to pieces an English siphai, and imitating the cries of 
 the man and the growl of the tiger a toy found in Tippoo's palace at 
 
MUSEUMS. 537 
 
 Seringapatam ; also, Tippoo's silver elephant-howdah and bird-canopy, 
 with gems for the eyes. Copies of the paintings on the roofs and "walls of 
 the rock temples of the Ajunta Pass, painted about the beginning of the 
 Christian era, and illustrating Buddhism and Saiva Brahminism. An 
 apartment is devoted to specimens of the animals and birds of India 
 and the Archipelago, and Abyssinian and Javanese entomology: of the 
 mammalia there is a printed catalogue. Upon the basement story are 
 Hindoo sculptures ; a state palankeen and elephant-seat from Bhurtpore; 
 Chinese lanterns ; models of the car of Jagannath, and of a large well of 
 Hindostan ; and the cases of an Egyptian mummy. Here is also a large 
 collection of fossil remains from the Himalaya, principally of the genera 
 elephas and mastodon ; the sivatherium, an extinct rhinoceros, and a 
 gigantic tortoise ; Eastern mammalia and Indian fishes ; also, five gold 
 and silver medals of the orders of honour and merit among the native 
 officers of British India. Among the pictures is David's portrait of 
 Napoleon, the most accurate likeness of him extant. 
 
 Admission daily by tickets from members of the Court, or other authorities; 
 or without tickets on Friday ; closed during September. 
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, 17 Old Bond-street : a col- 
 lection of insects, commenced with Mr. Kirby's specimens, from which 
 the first of monographs ever published was formed. (Kirby and Spence's 
 Introduction.) Here is also a library of reference on Entomology. 
 
 GEOLOGY, PRACTICAL, MUSEUM or, No. 28 to 32 Jermyn-street, ori- 
 ginated in a suggestion by Sir H. De la Beche, C.B., in 1835 ; for the 
 collection of geological and mineralogical specimens during the pro- 
 gress of the Geological Survey of the United Kingdom. The collections 
 were first exhibited in a house in Craig's Court, Charing Cross ; but 
 becoming too extensive for this accommodation, the present handsome 
 edifice was erected, with entrance in Jermyn-street, and frontage in 
 Piccadilly : Pennethorne architect; style, Italian palazzo. 
 
 In the lower hall is a collection of British building and ornamental 
 stones sandstones, oolites, limestones, granites, and porphyries, in six- 
 inch cubes. The entrance is lined with Derbyshire alabaster ; and the 
 hall has pilasters of granite from Scotland, serpentine from Ireland, 
 and limestones from Devonshire, Derbyshire, &c. On one side is an 
 elaborate screen, with Cornish serpentine pilasters and cornice ; and 
 Irish serpentine panels, framed with Derbyshire productions. Here is 
 a large copy of an Etruscan vase cut in Aberdeen granite ; and on the 
 floors are a very fine tesselated pavement of Cornish clay, and examples 
 of encaustic tiles ; pedestals of British marbles support vases, and 
 , statuettes of artificial stone, cement, &c. 
 
 The principal floor has an apartment 95 feet by 55 feet, with an iron 
 , roof, glazed with rough plate-glass. Around run two light galleries. 
 Here are specimens of iron, copper, tin, lead, manganese, antimony, 
 cobalt, &c. of the United Kingdom and the colonies ; also a good col- 
 lection of similar ores from the most important metalliferous countries 
 of the world. The processes of raising these from the mines are illus- 
 trated by an extensive series of models, with the modes of dressing the 
 ores for the market, and the final production of the metal ; mining tools, 
 safety-lamps, &c. ; including models of Taylor's Cornish pumping- 
 engine, the water-pressure engine, the turbine and other wheels, and 
 a beautiful set of valves. The models of mines can be dissected, and the 
 mode of working shewn ; with the machines for lowering and raising 
 the miners, models of stamping and crushing engines, and iron-smelting 
 by the hot and cold blast. Here, also, are tools of the Cornish, German, 
 Russian, and Mexican miners. 
 
 The history of the metals may also be read in a collection of bronzes 
 
538 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and brasses, and gold and silver ornaments; examples of metal cast- 
 ing and steel manufacture are shewn ; as are also metal statuettes, 
 electrotype deposits, and illustrations of electro-plating and gilding, 
 and photographic processes. Here is also a large and valuable collec- 
 tion of ancient glass, in beads, bottles, jugs, &c. historically arranged: 
 the old Venetian glass is exceedingly curious. The processes of ena- 
 melling are illustrated; and here are specimens of fine Limoges, modern 
 works, and Chinese enamels. 
 
 Next is a collection of Roman pottery. The China clays, China stone, 
 and other raw materials of earthenware and porcelain, are shewn ; and 
 here is a complete series of the wares of the Staffordshire potteries ; 
 also, specimens of those of Derby, Worcester, Swansea, Chelsea, Bow, 
 and other districts, in comparison with the earthenware of the ancients, 
 the ceramic manufactures of Italy, Germany, France, and the Orientals. 
 
 In the galleries round the large room is a very complete collection 
 of British fossils, arranged in the order of their occurrence and labelled, 
 so that a collector may compare and identify any specimen he may find. 
 
 Attached to the Museum is the Mining Records Office, in which are 
 collected plans and sections of existing and abandoned mines. Here 
 also are a Library, and a Lecture-theatre with 580 sittings. Lastly are 
 well-fitted Laboratories, communicating by a hydraulic lift with a fire- 
 proof room in the basement-story, containing an assay-furnace. The 
 collections are open to the public gratuitously on the first three days 
 of the week ; and on the other three days to the students. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSECM, Somerset House, is rich in the ori- 
 ginal types of fossils described in the Geological Transactions, The 
 collection contains a series of British fossils and rocks, arranged stra- 
 tegraphically : likewise, an assemblage of selected minerals, and a foreign 
 collection geographically arranged The Society possesses also a fine 
 library of works upon geological science. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL: MR. J. S. BOWERBANK'S Collection, 3 Highbury- 
 grove, Islington, consists more especially of British fossils strate- 
 graphically arranged ; and is particularly rich in the crag, London clay, 
 and chalk formations ; the whole occupying 400 drawers. Also the most 
 extensive collection of British and foreign Sponges in Europe, consist- 
 ing of many hundred species from Australia, Africa, the West Indies, 
 &c. Mr. Bowerbank receives British or foreign scientific visitors, with 
 suitable introductions, on Monday evenings, at eight o'clock, from May 
 to November, inclusive. (See also MR. SAULL'S MUSEUM, page 542.) 
 
 GUIANA EXHIBITION, 209 Regent-street (Cosmorama), was a Mu- 
 seum of objects illustrative of the ethnography and natural history of 
 British Guiana, collected by Mr. (now Sir) H.Robert Schomburgk/and 
 exhibited in 1840. The saloon was fitted up as a Guianese hut ; and here 
 were three living natives, part of Schomburgk's boat's crew, in theif 
 picturesque costumes. Besides collections of mammalia, birds, reptiles, 
 fishes, mollusca, and insects, specimens in osteology, geology, &c., here 
 was a painting of the Victoria Regia lily; Guianese furniture, cloth- 
 ing, and other manufactures; poisoned arrows and blowpipe; a native 
 hammock and bark shirt ; the boa, puma, and ant-eater ; splendid rock 
 manakins and humming-birds, &c. The three natives, wearing only 
 waistcloths, and jaguar-skin cloaks, and teeth necklaces, and feather- 
 caps, and their skins painted and tattooed, exhibited their blowpipe 
 shooting and dances, which were very attractive. 
 
 At the Cosmorama was revived, in 1839, the "Invisible Girl," of some thirty 
 years previously, the invention of M. Charles, and detailed by Sir David Brewster 
 in his Natural "Magic. The poet Moore inscribed, with exquisite fancy, " Lines 
 to the Invisible Girl." The invention " consisted of an apparatus with trumpets, 
 
MUSEUMS. 539 
 
 communicating by a pipe beneath the floor of the room to an apartment in which 
 sat a lady, who, through a small hole in the partition, saw what was going on in 
 the exhibition-room, and answered through the tube accordingly; the sound 
 losing so much of its force in its passage, as to appear like the voice of a girl." 
 
 HOSPITALS, the principal, possess Anatomical Museums. 
 
 HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S HOUSE, Fenchurch-street, possessed 
 many years since a Museum of stuffed Birds, and other objects of na- 
 tural history from Rupert's Land; the greater portion of which has 
 'een presented to the British Museum and the Zoological Society. 
 
 HUNTER'S (WILLIAM) MUSEUM was collected at his large house on 
 the east side of Great Windmill-street, Haymarket. Hunter employed 
 many years in the anatomical preparations and in the dissections ; be- 
 sides making additions by purchase from the museums of Sandys, Fal- 
 conar, Blackall, and others. Here was a sumptuous library of Greek 
 and Latin classics ; and a very rare cabinet of ancient medals, besides 
 coins, purchased at 20,OOOZ. expense. Minerals, shells, and other speci- 
 mens of natural history were gradually added to this museum, which 
 hence became one of the Curiosities of Europe. The cost of the whole 
 exceeded 70,000/. ; and was bequeathed by Hunter to the University of 
 Glasgow, with 8000J. to support and augment the whole. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE MUSEUM, Strand, consists of the collection formed 
 at the Kew Observatory by King George III., and of a cabinet of natu- 
 ral history specimens from Kew Palace ; presented to the College in 
 1843, and known as " George the Third's Museum." Here are the cele- 
 brated " Boyle models," and " forty-one brass plates, engraved with 
 astronomical, astrological, and mathematical delineations ;" a large 
 orrery, date 1733; an armillary sphere, 1731; apparatus made for 
 Desaguliers's lectures; a rude model of Watt's steam-engine; Att- 
 wood's large arch of polished brass voussoirs, &c. There have been 
 added Wheatstone's speaking-machine ; a model, fifteen feet long, of the 
 celebrated Schauffhausen timber bridge ; a bust of Queen Victoria, by 
 Weekes ; and a statuette of George III., by Turnerelli. The collection 
 also includes small philosophical apparatus, entomological specimens, 
 fossils, minerals, &c. Here also is a portion of Mr. Babbage's Cal- 
 culating Machine, which has succeeded in printing mathematical and 
 astronomical tables. At the College is likewise an Anatomical Museum, 
 a Cabinet of Natural History, and a chemical theatre, with a Daniell 
 constant battery of great power. 
 
 The College possesses a beautifully-illuminated Ms. containing the Statutes of 
 
 the Order of the Garter; a drawing of the House of Lords, tump. Edward I.; and 
 
 the Statutes in more elegant Latin, corrected in the handwriting of King Edward 
 
 | VI., superbly emblazoned with arms, &c. The Museum can be seen by the Cu- 
 
 | lator's order. 
 
 LEVERIAN MUSEUM: described at page 453. 
 
 LINNJEAN SOCIETY, 32 Soho-square (the house of Sir Joseph Banks, 
 ! and bequeathed by him to the Society), contains in its Museum the her- 
 j barium of Linnaeus, purchased, with the library, by the late Sir J. E. 
 I Smith, for 1000Z. The herbarium is kept in three small cases, and is a 
 1 curious botanical antiquity, of great value in ascertaining with certainty 
 the synonyms of the writings of Linnseus. The museum is very rich in 
 the botanical department, containing the herbaria of Linnaaus, Smith, 
 1 Pulteney, Woodward, Winch, &c. ; besides a valuable herbarium pre- 
 sented by the East India Company in 1833. The entomological col- 
 lections are extensive ; the zoology is rich in Australian marsupials, 
 birds, and reptiles ; and the shells are fine. 
 
 Here is a collection of paintings, including a portrait of Linnaeus, 
 from the original by Roslin at Stockholm, described as the most strik- 
 
540 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ing likeness ever executed. This copy was painted for Archbishop 
 Von Troil, by whom it was presented to Sir Joseph Banks. 
 
 In this house Sir Joseph Banks gave public breakfasts on Thursdays, 
 and conversazioni on Sunday evenings, to the Fellows of the Royal So- 
 ciety, during his long presidency. He left an annuity of 200/., his library, 
 and botanical collections, for life, to his librarian, Mr. Robert Brown, 
 F.R.S., afterwards to come to the British Museum ; but by arrange- 
 ment the library and collections have been transferred to the Museum. , 
 
 MEAD'S (DR.) MUSEUM was in the garden of No. 49 Great Ormond/* 
 street, where was also a library of 10,000 volumes. The collection 
 included prints and drawings, coins and medals ; marble statues of 
 Greek philosophers and Roman emperors; bronzes, gems, intaglios, 
 Etruscan vases, &c. ; marble busts of Shakspeare, Milton, and Pope, by 
 Scheemakers ; statues of Hygaeia and Antinous ; a celebrated bronze 
 head of Homer; and an iron cabinet (once Queen Elizabeth's) full of 
 coins, among which was a medal with Oliver Cromwell's head in profile, 
 legend, " the Lord of Hosts, the word at Dunbar, Sept. 1650 ;" on the 
 reverse, the parliament sitting. After Dr. Mead's death, in 1754, the 
 sale of his library, pictures, statues, &c. realised between 15,000/. and 
 16,000/. Mead, when not engaged at home, generally spent his even- 
 ings at Batson's coffee-house ; and in the forenoons, apothecaries came 
 to him at Tom's, Covent Garden, with written or verbal reports of 
 cases, for which he prescribed without seeing the patient, and took 
 half-guinea fees. Dr. Mead's gay conversazioni, in Ormond-street, 
 were the first meetings of the kind. 
 
 MISSIONARY MUSEUM (the), 8 Blomfield-street,Finsbury, contributed 
 chiefly by the missionaries of the London Missionary Society, and tra- 
 vellers generally, is remarkable for its great number of idols and objects 
 of superstitious" regard, costumes, domestic utensils, implements of war, 
 music, &c. from islands in the Pacific Ocean, China, and ultra-Ganges; 
 India, including the three Presidencies; Africa and Madagascar ; North 
 and South America ; " especially the idols given up by their former wor- 
 shippers, from a full conviction of the folly and sin of idolatry." Here 
 also is an assemblage of natural history specimens, principally Polynesian: 
 its Tahitian collection rivals Capt. Cook's, in the British Museum. 
 
 Some of the idols are 1 2 feet high. Among the rarities are 1 8 model pictures of 
 Japanese costumes, obtained at great risk; and six coloured etchings by a Chinese- 
 artist, the Progress of the Opium-smoker, a counterpart to Hogarth's "Rake's 
 Progress." Admission by Director's or officer's tickets, on Tuesday, Thursday, 
 and Saturday. 
 
 MANUFACTURES AND ORNAMENTAL ART MUSEUM, Marlborough 
 House, Pall Mall, was opened temporarily in 1852, with purchases from 
 the Great Exhibition, with 5000Z. voted by Parliament ; including gor- 
 geous scarfs and shawls from Cashmere and Lahore ; the French shawl 
 of Duchd aine et C ie , the most perfect specimen of shawl-weaving ever 
 produced ; glittering swords, yatagans, and pistols from Tunis and Con- 
 stantinople ; the famous " La Gloire" vase from the Sevres manufac- 
 ture ; Marcel Freres' hunting-knife of St. Hubert ; Changarnier's sword, 
 from the workshop of Froment Meurice ; Vecte's splendid shield ; a fac- 
 simile of the celebrated Cellini cup ; and other art-illustrations of the 
 highest order. To these have been added purchases ; and the articles 
 are grouped into six classes : woven fabrics, metal works, pottery, fur- 
 niture, and miscellanies. The metal-work department consists also of 
 the rich and splendid manufacture of the East, with a few rude speci- 
 mens illustrative of the innate taste of their workmen ; the silver and 
 bronze materials of France, cups of English and brooches of Irish manu- 
 facture, and Elkington's electrotypes. The division of pottery was 
 euriched by the Queen's Sevres collection, and by valuable works from 
 
MUSEUMS. 541 
 
 Baring, Minton, Copeland, Webb, and Farrar : the royal collection, 
 though of forty-two pieces only, being worth 12,OOOZ. The casts of 
 ornamental art have been removed here from Somerset House; and the 
 collection includes ancient Greek and Roman, mediaeval or Roman- 
 esque, Saracenic or Gtothic, Renaissance, figures, busts, masks, animals, 
 &c. ; the Renaissance (A.D. 1400 to 1GOO) arranged chronologically. 
 
 There is a collection of 3489 specimens of enrichment, British and foreign 
 examples, for the guidance as to style of the carvers employed in the New 
 Houses of Parliament; and another collection of 3283 casts, from models pre- 
 pared for stone and wood carvings, deposited in the Government .Works at 
 Thames Bank, and at the New Houses of Parliament. These examples cost 
 70001., and are intended to form part of a National Museum of Mediaeval Art. 
 First Report Dep. Practical Art, 1853. 
 
 On Monday and Tuesday the admission is free; on Wednesday, Thursday, and 
 Friday, by an entrance-fee of sixpence ; and on Saturday the Museum is closed. 
 
 NATIONAL REPOSITORY (the) was formed in 1828, in the upper 
 gallery of the south-west side of the King's Mews, Charing Cross; and 
 35 adjoining rooms were reserved for the reception of products from 
 the chief manufacturing towns. Here were silk-looms to work at cer- 
 tain hours, English Mechlin lace, crystallo-ceramic ornamental glass ; 
 models of steam-engines, steam-boat paddles, suspension-bridges, and 
 public buildings; new kaleidoscopes, rain-gauges, musical glasses, In- 
 dian corn-mills, life-buoys, &c. The collection was removed to Leices- 
 ter-square (see page 455), and there merged into the " Museum of 
 National Manufactures and the Mechanical Arts." 
 
 NAVAL MUSEUM (" The Model Room"), Somerset House, may be 
 seen by order of the Surveyor-general of the Navy. Here are models 
 of the science and trade of ship-building, with sections of interior and 
 exterior construction, from the " Great Harry" and the " Sovereign 
 of the Seas" to our own time. In the central room is a large model 
 of the " Victoria," 110 guns, laid down in 1839 ; and above hangs a 
 model of the " Victory," built 1735, and lost in 1744, with an admiral 
 and its entire crew. Here also are models of the " Bucentaur ;" a 
 Chinese Junk ; a Burmese War-boat ; the " Queen," 110 guns ; and 
 the " Agamemnon" steam-screw war-ship, 91 guns. 
 
 PHARMACEUTICAL SOCIETY (the), 17 Bloomsbury-sqtiare, incor- 
 porated 1842, possesses the most extensive and complete Museum of the 
 kind in existence; comprising rare specimens of the animal, vegetable, 
 and mineral kingdoms; and substances and products used in Medicine 
 and Pharmacy. Also, groups and series of authenticated specimens, 
 valuable for identifying, comparing, and tracing, the origin and natural 
 history of products. Here is the valuable Museum of the late Dr. Pe- 
 reira, including collections of Cinchona barks by eminent foreign natu- 
 ralists. The collection may be seen daily, except Saturdays, by Mem- 
 ber's order, or on application to the Curator. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, Somerset House, was commenced in 
 
 1GG5 ; then was " the collecting a repository, the setting up a chemical 
 
 laboratory, a mechanical operatory, an astronomical observatory, and 
 
 an optick chamber :" next year Evelyn presented the table of veins, 
 
 arteries, and nerves, which he had made ' out of the natural human 
 
 | bodies,' in Italy." Sir R. Moray presented "the stones taken out of 
 
 ' Lord Balcarras's heart, in a silver box ;" and " a bottle full of stag's 
 
 i tears." Hooke gave ' a petrified fish, the skin of an antelope which 
 
 i died in St. James's Park, a petrified foetus," and other rarities. In 
 
 I 1681, when Dr. Grew published his curious catalogue, the Museum 
 
 i contained several thousand specimens of zoological subjects and foreign 
 
 ! curiosities : among the eighty-three contributors are Prince Rupert, 
 
 ! the Duke of Norfolk, Boyle, Evelyn, Hooke, Pepys, &c. (Weld's History 
 
542 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of the Royal Society, vol. ii. p. 278.)* Ned Ward (London Spy, part iii.) 
 satirically describes this Museum of Wiseacres' Hall, or Gresharn Col- 
 lege. The account of its rarities in Ration's London, 1708, fills 20 pages. 
 Relics of Sir Isaac Newton. An autograph note from the Mint 
 Office ; one of the solar dials made by Newton wfcen a boy ; his richly, 
 chased gold watch, with a medallion of Newton, and inscribed : " Mrs. 
 Catherine Conduit to Sir Isaac Newton. Jan. 4, 1708." " The first 
 reflecting telescope, invented by Sir Isaac Newton, and made with his 
 own hands," 1761 ; the mask of his face, from the cast taken after death, 
 which belonged to Roubiliac ; a small lock of Newton's silver-white 
 hair ; and three portraits of him in oil, painted by Jervas, Marchand, 
 and Vanderbank. Here likewise is the original model of the safety- 
 lamp, made by Sir Humphry Davy's own hands in 1815. 
 
 SALTERO'S (Dox) MUSEUM was first established at a coffee-house, 
 now the Swan Tavern, in Cheyne-walk, Chelsea, in 1695, by one Sal- 
 ter, a barber, who assembled there a collection of Curiosities, which 
 remained in the coffee-room till August 1799, when they were dispersed 
 by public auction; previous to which printed Catalogues were sold, 
 with the names of the principal benefactors to the collection. In Dr. 
 Franklin's Life we read : " Some gentlemen from the country went by 
 water to see the College, and Don Saltero's Curiosities," at Chelsea. 
 
 SAULL'S MUSEUM, 15 Aldersgate-street, is a private collection, which 
 the proprietor liberally allows to be inspected on Thursdays, from 11 
 A.M. The Antiquities, principally excavated in the metropolis, consist 
 of early British vases, Roman lamps and urns, amphora, and dishes, tiles, 
 bricks, and pavements, and fragments of Samian ware; also, a few- 
 Egyptian antiquities : and a cabinet of Greek, Roman, and early British 
 coins. The Geological Department contains the collection of the late Mr. 
 Sowerby, with additions by Mr. Saull, F.G.S.; together exceeding 20,000 
 specimens, arranged according to the probable order of the earth's struc- 
 ture. Every article bears a descriptive label : and the localisation of the 
 antiquities, some of which were dug up almost on the spot, renders 
 these relics so many medals of our metropolitan civilisation. 
 
 SLOANE MUSEUM (the), collected by Sir Hans Sloane, at Chelsea, 
 consisted of natural and artificial Curiosities, Avhich cost Sir Hans 
 60,000?; after his death in 1753, they were sold to Parliament for 
 20,000/., and formed the nucleus of the British Museum. The collec- 
 tion consisted of a library of 50,000 volumes ; Mss. upon natural his- 
 tory, voyages and travels, and the arts, especially medicine; 23,000 
 medals and coins; anatomical preparations; natural history specimens; 
 and an herbarium of 336 volumes. The Catalogue of the collection ex- 
 tended to 38 vols., folio, and 8 vols. 4to. (See BRITISH MUSEUM.) 
 
 SOANE MUSEUM (the), 13 Lincoln's Tnn Fields (north side), was 
 founded and endowed by Sir John Soane, the architect ; at whose death, 
 in 1837, the trustees appointed by Parliament took charge of the " Mu- 
 seum, Library. Books, Prints, Manuscripts, Drawings, Maps, Models, 
 Plans, and Works of Art, and the House and Offices;" providing for 
 the free admission of amateurs and students in painting, sculpture, and 
 architecture ; and general visitors. 
 
 The Museum is open to general visitors on Thursdays and Fridays during 
 April, May, and June in each year ; and likewise on Tuesdays, from the first in 
 February to the last in August, for the accommodation of foreigners and persons 
 making but a short stay in London; also artists, and those prevented by special 
 circumstances from visiting the museum in the months first specified. 
 
 * From the Charter-book Mr. Weld has collected into a volume fac-similes 
 of 300 of tl e Fallows (from the period of the institution of the Royal Society to 
 the present time), an illustrious set of autographs. 
 
MUSEUMS. 543 
 
 Admission is obtained by cards, to be applied for a day or two previously, 
 either to a Trustee, by letter to the Curator, or personally at the Museum, where the 
 applicant is expected to leave the name and address of the party desiring admis- 
 sion, and the number of persons proposed to be introduced; when, unless there 
 appears to the Curator some reason to the contrary, a card of admission for the 
 next open day is forwarded by post. 
 
 Access to the books, drawings, Mss., or permission to copy pictures or other 
 works of art, is granted on special application to the Trustees or the Curator, 
 Mr. George Bailey, who reside* at the Museum. 
 
 A general description of the collection, abridged from that printed by Sir 
 John Soane in 1835, may be had at the Museum. The larger work (only 150 
 copies printed) is interspersed with poetic illustrations by Mrs. Hofland. 
 
 The house, built by Mr. Soane in 1792, was in 1812 faced with a 
 stone screen, in which are introduced Gothic corbels, 12th century ; 
 and terra-cotta canephorae, copied from the caryatides of the Temple 
 of Pandrosus at Athens. The entrance-hall is decorated with medallion 
 reliefs after the antique. The dining-room and library ceiling are painted 
 by H. Howard, R. A. Here are a large collection of drawings of buildings 
 by Sir John Soane;* plaster models of ancient Greek and Roman edi- 
 fices, restored; a cork model of Pompeii; fictile vases, alabaster urns, 
 and antique bronzes; windows filled with old stained glass; busts of 
 Homer. Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, Camden, and Inigo Jones; Greek and 
 Etruscan vases, and Wedgewood's imitations ; Sir Joshua Reynolds's 
 Snake in the Grass, purchased for 510 guineas by Soane, at the 
 Marchioness of Thomond's sale; and a portrait of Soane, almost the 
 last picture painted by Lawrence, 1829. Here also is a walnut-tree and 
 marble table, formerly Sir Robert Walpole's; and over the bookcases 
 are busts after the antique. The Little Study contains marble fragments 
 of Greek and Roman sculpture, antique bronzes, and some natural 
 Curiosities. In the Monks' Yard are Gothic fragments of the ancient 
 palace at Westminster, picturesquely arranged to resemble a ruined 
 cloister. In the Corridor are casts from Westminster Hall ; and 
 Banks's model of a Sleeping Girl, at Ashbourne; also two engravings, 
 the Laughing Audience, and the Chorus, by Hogarth ; and a drawing by 
 Canaletti. The Monks' Parlour has its walls covered with fragments 
 and casts of mediaeval buildings. The Monument Court contains archi- 
 tectural groups of various nations. The Picture-room has movable 
 planes, which serve as double walls, on each side of which are hung the 
 i pictures r here are Hogarth's Rake's Progress, eight paintings, pur- 
 ; chased for 570 guineas; and Hogarth's Election, 4 paintings, for 1650 
 i guineas ; also, 3 pictures by Canaletti, one, the Grand Canal of Ve- 
 nice, his chef-d'oeuvre; Van Tromp's Barges entering the Texel, by 
 J. M. W. Turner, R.A. ; the Study of a Head, from one of Raphael's 
 I Cartoons, a relic saved from the wreck of the lost Cartoons, which re- 
 i mained in the possession of the family of the weaver who originally 
 j worked them in tapestry ; also copies of two other heads from the 
 j same, by Flaxman ; pictures by Watteau, Fuseli, Bird, Westall, Turner, 
 i Calcott, Hilton, &c. 
 
 In the Catacombs are ancient marble cinerary urns and vases. In 
 the Sepulchral Chamber is the sarcophagus discovered in 1817, by Bel- 
 j zoni, in a royal tomb near Gournou, Thebes : it is 9 feet 4 inches long 
 , and 2 feet 8 inches deep, and is formed out of a mass of arragonite, or 
 , alabaster ; it is transparent when a light is placed inside it, and is sculp- 
 tured within and without with several hundred figures 2 inches in 
 
 * Sir Jhn Soane, the son of a Berkshire bricklayer, designed a greater number 
 of public edifices than any contemporary : from the Bank of England in the City, 
 I to Chelsea Hospital at the western extremity ; from \Valworth in the southern, 
 i to the Regent's Park in the north-western suburbs. His last work (1833), the 
 ! State Paper Office, in St. James's Park, is very unlike any other of his designs. 
 ; He died at his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, Jan. 20, 1837. 
 
544 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 height, and supposed by Belzoni to represent funeral processions and 
 ceremonies ; within is a full- length figure of Isis, the guardian of the 
 dead. Dr. Young considered it to be the tomb of Psammis ; and the 
 hieroglyphics in the cartouche to indicate Osirei-menephtha, the father 
 of Rameses II. : although Sir Gardner Wilkinson considers it was not 
 that monarch's sarcophagus, but his cenotaph. It was purchased by-: 
 Sir John Soane of Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 20001. 
 
 In the Crypt are several cork models of ancient tombs and sepulchraM 
 chambers discovered in Sicily, the walls decorated with painting and;* 
 sculpture; and in the centre the remains of the deceased, amidst vases 
 and other funereal accompaniments. 
 
 In various apartments are a plaster cast of the Apollo Belvidere^B 
 taken by Lord Burlington about 1718; a marble bust of Sir Joha* 
 Soane, presented by the sculptor, Chantrey ; a richly-mounted pistol, 
 taken by Peter the Great from the Turkish Bey at Azof, 1696, and 
 presented by Alexander Emperor of Russia to the Emperor Napoleon? 
 at Tilsit in 1807, and given by him to a French officer at St. Helena; f 
 also, a portrait of Napoleon in" his 28th year, by a Venetian artist ; and 
 a miniature of Napoleon, painted at Elba, in 1814, by Isabey ; statuettes 
 of Michael Angelo and Raphael, cast from the model, by Flaxman, in 
 Mr. Rogers's collection ; marble bust of Sir William Chambers ; bust 
 of R. B. Sheridan, by Garrard ; carved and gilt ivory table and chairs, 
 formerly Tippoo Saib's ; the watch, measuring-rods, and compasses 
 used by Sir Christopher Wren ; a large collection of ancient gems and in- 
 taglios ; and a set of the Napoleon Medals, once the Empress Josephine's. 
 (See LIBRARIES, p. 465.) 
 
 The Sculpture, Marbles, Casts, and Models, contain 40 specimens of Flaxman, 
 including a plaster cast of his " Shield of Achilles;" 10 works of Banks; and j 
 specimens of Michael Angelo, John de Bologna, Donatello, Rysbrack, Westma- 
 cott, Chantrey, Gibson, Baily, Rossi, &c. 
 
 The Architectural department includes drawings, models of buildings, and de- 
 tails. Among the drawings are those of all Sir John Soane's works, and others by | 
 Piranesi, Zucchi, Bibiena, Campanella, Thornhill, Chambers, Kent, and Smirke; 
 and a volume of drawings by Thorpe, the Elizabethan architect. There are j 
 busts of Palladio, Wren, Chambers, Dance, &c. 
 
 The nine Etruscan Vases exhibit the variety of shapes to be found in much 
 larger collections : one (the Englefield)is of extreme rarity ; and the Cawdor vase \ 
 is of extraordinary size, and elegantly enriched. Among the Roman antiquities ( 
 are real specimens and casts from the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome, and of j 
 the Sibyl or Vesta at Tivoli, &c. 
 
 The Antiquities and Curiosities are as useful to artists and pattern-drawers as ( 
 the new rooms in the Louvre at Paris. The entire collection cost Sir John Soane <| 
 upwards of 50.000/. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS, 18 John-street, Adelphi (the house built by the 
 brothers Adam, in 1772-74), has Barry's celebrated pictures upon the 
 walls of the Council-room, and a few portraits, &c. ; to be seen gratis, 
 between 10 and 4 daily, except Wednesday and Sunday. 
 
 The Model Repository, 42 feet by 35 feet, on the ground-floor, con- 
 tains one of the most extensive collections of models in Europe. 
 
 Here are " hands for the one-handed, and other instruments for those who 
 have lost both ; clothes of all sorts of materials from all countries ; medals of 
 Charles l.'s reign, and the last new stove of Victoria's; fire-escape ladders to run 
 down from windows and scaffolds, rising telescope fashion out of a box, to mount ! 
 roofs; beehives and turnip-slicers, ploughs and instruments to restrain vicious 1 
 bulls, pans to preserve butter in hot countries, safety-lamps ; models of massive j 
 cranes, and of little tips for umbrellas; life-buoys and maroon-locks; diving-bells \ 
 and expanding keys; safety-coaches and traps; clocks, and tail-pieces for violon- | 
 cellos ; instruments to draw spirits and to draw teeth ; samples of tea, sugar, cin- j 
 namon, and nutmegs, in different stages of growth; models of Tuscan pavement; 
 beds for invalids ; methods to teachtheblindhowto write" (Knight's London) ; also, j 
 the first piece of Gutta Percha seen in Europe, and presented to the Society 1843. 
 
MUSEUMS. 545 
 
 In the Ante-room, upstairs, are Nollekens's medallion of Jephtha's 
 Vow, Barry's picture of Eve tempting 1 Adam, &c. The large pictures 
 n the Council-room were presented gratuitously by Barry, between 
 1777 and 1783, and were commenced when he had but sixteen shillings in 
 lis pocket. They are, 1. Orpheus Civilising the Inhabitants of Thrace. 
 2. A Grecian Harvest-home. 3. Crowning the Victors at Olympia. 4. 
 Commerce, or the Triumph of the Thames. 5. The Distribution of 
 Premiums in the Society of Arts. 6. Elysium, or the State of Final 
 Retribution. Barry has published etchings of these pictures, and has 
 [minutely described the subjects in his published Works, vol. ii. p. 323, 
 [edit. 1809. They were exhibited, and produced Barry 500?., to which the 
 [Society added 200?. The Victors at Olympia is the finest work of the 
 jseries : Canova declared the sight of it to be worth a voyage to England. 
 I In the Distribution picture are introduced portraits of Shipley, Arthur 
 Young, the Prince of Wales, Mrs. Montagu, Sir George Savile, Bishop 
 Hurd, Soame Jenyns, the two beautiful Duchesses of Rutland and 
 Devonshire, the Duke of Richmond, Lord Folkestone, William Lock, 
 Edmund Burke, and Dr. Johnson. The Retribution contains great and 
 good men of all ages and times. Each of the latter pictures is 42 feet 
 long. Barry died in 1806, and his remains lay in state in the room which 
 the grandeur of his genius had so magnificently adorned. In the ante- 
 room is a portrait of Barry ; and in the large room are portraits of Lord 
 Folkestone, by Gainsborough; Lord Romney, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; 
 a marble statue of Dr. Ward, by Carlini ; busts'of Dr. Franklin and Barry ; 
 and casts of Venus, Mars, and^Narcissus, by John Bacon. 
 
 The Society have held in the Great Room annual Exhibitions of De- 
 corative Manufactures, and Ancient and Mediaeval Art; and the col- 
 lected works of Mulready and Etty. 
 
 TBA.DESCANTS' MUSEUM, at South Lambeth (see page 145), con- 
 tained not only stuffed animals and dried plants, but also minerals; im- 
 plements of war and domestic use, of various nations ; and a collection 
 of coins and medals. In the Catalogue, entitled Museum Tradescan- 
 tium, 1656, we find, "Two feathers of the phoenix tayle;" "a natural 
 dragon ;" and a stuffed specimen of the Dodo, believed to have been 
 exhibited alive in London in 1638, the head and foot of which are pre- 
 served in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, of which the Tradescants' 
 collection formed the nucleus. 
 
 TRINITY HOUSE MUSEUM, Tower Hill, contains various models of 
 lighthouses, floating- lights, life-boats, and a noble model of the " Royal 
 William," 150 years old. Among the naval Curiosities is the flag taken 
 by Sir Francis Drake, in 1588, from the Spaniards ; pen-and-ink plans 
 of sea-fights, temp. Charles I L : Chinese map ; pair of colossal globes, 
 &c. ; besides a large picture, by Gainsborough, of the elder Trinity breth- 
 ren, and numerous portraits and busts. To be seen by Secretary's order. 
 UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION MUSEUM, Whitehall-yard, contains 
 an Armoury, Chinese cabinet and model gallery, antiquities, and an 
 ethnological collection ; a lecture-theatre and library. Among the 
 Curiosities are a stirrup cross-bow (temp. Henry VIII.) ; a group of 
 ancient swords ; Cromwell's basket-handled cut-and-thrust sword, used 
 by him at the siege of Drogheda, 1649 ; General Wolfe's sword, Quebec, 
 1759; an Australian Bomarang; the stone upon which Capt. Cook fell 
 dead at Owhyee ; warimplements from all parts of the world ; a piece of 
 the deck of the Victory, from the spot on which Nelson fell; Napoleon 
 Bonaparte's fusil, razor and shaving-brush, and fragment of his coffin j 
 articles found on the field of Waterloo ; relics of the Royal George, 
 sunk 1760, and the Mary Rose, 1545; chronological series of fire-arms 
 (James II. to William IV.); skeleton of the horse Marengo, rode by 
 
546 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Napoleon at Waterloo ; Chinese trophies and chain-shot; Polar bear 
 and wolf shot by Sir George Back; wooden Chinese cage for human 
 prisoner ; first uniform worn in the British navy ; hat of Lord Nelson ; 
 Chinese magic mirror; models of ships of all nations; fortification 
 models ; great model of Linz and its camp : and pictures of battles. 
 Also, Capt. Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo ; scale, 9 feet to $ 
 a mile, area 440 square feet ; shewing the entire field, and the British, i 
 French, and Prussian armies, by 190,000 metal figures; with the vil-| 
 lages, nouses, farmyards, and clumps of trees : cost Captain Siborne 
 4000/. ; purchased for the Institution by subscription. 
 
 The United Service Institution, established 1830, is supported by entrance- * 
 fees, I/.; annual subscription, 10*. The public are admitted daily, free, by mem- 
 bers' orders; for three days at Easter and Christmas, and on the anniversaries of ] 
 the Battles of Waterloo (June 18) and Trafalgar (Oct. 21), the Museum is open. I 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Gower-street. The Anatomical Museum, 
 based upon the collection of Sir Charles Bell, consists of 4066 speci- 
 mens in catalogue, and large additions. Also, the models in wax by 
 Tuson, including the celebrated case of Icthyosis cornea; 700 coloured 
 drawings by Sir R. Carswell, and 200 by Armstrong; the heart and 
 throat of Ramo Samee (the sword-swallowing Indian juggler), ob. j 
 24 July, 1849; a Skull from the Wreck of the Royal George; bones 
 and a Skull from ancient Greek graves; a Head from the Catacombs 
 in Paris; an Elephant's Heart; reputed fragments of bones of the Good 
 Duke Humphrey and Robert Bruce; and a cast from Hervey Leach 
 (Hervio Nano), ob. March 1847. Here, also, is the Skeleton of Jeremy 
 Bentham, dressed in the clothes which he usually wore, and with a wax 
 face modelled by Dr. Talrych ; also a portion of skin from the body . 
 of the first person obtained under the New Anatomical Act (Lady Bar- 
 rington). A Museum of Comparative Anatomy, and a fine Materia 
 Medica collection. The Natural Philosophy Models are good. In the 
 Drawing School are three marble figures in relief of the Hindoo Trinity, 
 Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva, dug up from the ruins of a city in a forest 
 50 miles east of Baroda. In the School, also, is a collection of Casts, 
 including the Apollo made in Rome for Flaxman, the Laocoon, &c. 
 
 University College site, 7 acres, cost 30.000Z. The Library of General Litera- 
 ture contains 38,718 volumes of printed books, besides 6460 pamphlets, and about 
 10,000 Chinese works, the donation of the late Rev. Robert Morrison, D.D. : 
 containing a Chinese Encyclopaedia and 3 Dictionaries; prints of ancient ves- 
 sels and costumes; a tabular Index to the Twenty-four Historians, &c. The Me- 
 dical Library consists of 3790 volumes, and 1191 pamphlets. The Books arelent 
 to the Students, on a deposit. See also LIBRARIES, p. 465. 
 
 WATERLOO MUSEUM, see PALL MALL. 
 
 WEEKS'S MUSEUM, 3 Tichborne-street, established about 1810, 
 was famed for its mechanical Curiosities. The grand room, by Wyatt, 
 had a ceiling painted by Rebecca and Singleton. Here were two tem- 
 ples, 7 feet high, supported by 16 elephants, and embellished with 1700 
 pieces of jewellery. Among the automata were the tarantula spider 
 and bird of paradise. Weeks's Museum has long been dispersed ; the 
 premises were subsequently the show-rooms of the Rockingham Works, 
 where, in 1837, was exhibited a splendid porcelain dessert-service, made 
 for William IV. : 200 pieces, painted with 760 subjects, occupied 5 years, 
 and cost 3000?. In 1851 the place was refitted by Robin, the conjuror. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM (the) was originally commenced 
 in Bruton-street, then removed to No. 26 Leicester-square; and is 
 now contained in a building erected for it in the Society's Garden, 
 Regent's Park, about 1843. This Museum was projected upon an 
 extensive scale: during the earlier years of its formation, it was, 
 scientifically, the great collection of this country ; but it soon became 
 
MUSEUMS. 547 
 
 Eclipsed by the rapid accumulation with which Dr. Gray enriched 
 the galleries of the British Museum; and as the national collection 
 Gradually assumed the important place which it now occupies among 
 the great public institutions of Europe, the Council of the Zoolo- 
 gical Society withdrew from the competition, and concentrated their 
 efforts towards their Vivarium. Their Museum is arranged to convey 
 in idea of the Generic Forms of the Vertebrate Division of the Animal 
 Kingdom ; including about 1500 species of Mammalia, and 7000 species 
 of Birds. By this method, most of the essential differences of form are 
 well illustrated in a reduced number of specimens, so as to impress a 
 casual observer with the distinctive features of each family. Among 
 ;he animals preserved are many of the rarest and most curious known 
 to exist, and selected from the original collection, commenced with the 
 gif;s of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the first President of the Zoolo- 
 gical Society ; and Mr. N. A. Vigors, its first Secretary. 
 
 In the original Prospectus, dated 1824, it was proposed, " that the 
 Society shall have a Museum, as well as a Library of all Books con- 
 nected with the subject." 
 
 PRIVATE COLLECTIONS. The following can only be seen by private 
 ntroduction to their proprietors. 
 
 Auldjo, Mr. John, Noel House, Kensington : an extensive assem- 
 )lage of Antique and Medieval Articles of Vertu ; including a portion 
 of a Greek glass vase, of similar execution to the Portland Vase : it is 
 ornamented with foliage and birds, and was found at Pompeii in 1833. 
 
 Bernal, Mr.R., No. $3 Eaton-square : Pictures, Arms, and Articles 
 of Vertu (sixteenth and seventeenth centuries). The pictures are por- 
 iraits, and representations of public processions or historic events; 
 curious, and by celebrated painters. Arm our, remarkable for the artistic 
 elaboration of its details. An extensive series of examples of Raphael- 
 ware, Flemish and French pottery and china, form a Ceramic Museum. 
 Also fine specimens of early metal-work ; and a valuable collection of 
 ancient watches, of extremely curious design and construction. 
 
 Gwilt, Mr. George, No. 8 Union-street, Southwark ; and Givilt, 
 Mr. Joseph, 20 Abingdon-street, Westminster : Collections of Archi- 
 ;ectural Antiquities; the former especially rich in Southwark relics 
 some Roman), Old London Bridge, &c. 
 
 Londesborough, Lord, No. 8 Carlton- House-terrace, possesses a 
 collection of Antiquities ranging from the earliest English period. 
 Saxon remains, urns, arms, and articles of personal decoration, prin- 
 cipally excavated by his lordship from tumuli in Kent. Also Irish gold 
 antiques, valuable and curious ; and mediaeval gold and silver work in 
 ewels, cups, &c. Arms and armour, artistically -wrought and richly 
 lecorated (but chiefly preserved at Grimstone, in Yorkshire). Lady 
 Londesborough has also collected a series of many hundred antique 
 rings, ranging from the early Egyptian times to the seventeenth cen- 
 tury. These collections are shown at conversazioni given by Lord and 
 Lady Londesborough during the London season. There is a privately 
 printed Catalogue, by Mr. T. Crofton Croker, F.S. A. 
 
 Magniac, Mr. H., No. 87 Jermyn- street, St. James's: a collection 
 chiefly remarkable for its fine Ecclesiastical Works crosiers, reliqua- 
 ries, pyxes, &c. Also fine examples of Ancient Carved Furniture, and 
 other specimens of medieval art. 
 
 Marryatt, Mr. P., author of a History of Pottery, has a large 
 collection of Ceramic Works, particularly Flemish and German, but 
 exhibiting generally the varied forms and peculiarities of the entire 
 manufacture : formerly at Richmond- terrace, Whitehall ; removed to 
 the Ynescedwyn Iron-works, Swansea. 
 
 Morgan, Mr. Octavius, Pall Mall, possesses a very valuable series of 
 
548 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Ancient Clocks and Watches; particularly remarkable for its historic 
 illustration of the gradual improvement in watches, from the earliest 
 period to that of Quare and Tompion. 
 
 Rothschild, the Baron Lionel de, No. 148 Piccadilly, has a costly col- 
 lection of Medieval Art. Also Antique Pottery, including a candlestick 
 formed of white clay, rare Henry II. ware (French), which cost the 
 Baron 2201. : not more than 27 articles of this ware are known to exist. 
 
 Sainsbury, Mr., No. 13 Upper Ranelagh- street, Pimlico : Historical 
 Mss. and Autographs, 1473 to 1848 ; enamels, miniatures, medals, and 
 coir.s; books, drawings, and prints; Shakspeare relics (including the 
 Garrick cup) ; Napoleon Collection exhibited at the " Napoleon Mu- 
 seum," at the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly (see page 266). 
 
 Slade, Mr. Felix, Walcot-place, Lambeth, possesses a collection of 
 Pottery and Glass of the middle ages ; unmatched in fine examples of 
 Venetian workmanship. 
 
 Windus, Mr. T., Stamford Hill, possesses, in a building of style 
 1550, carvings in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and wood; crystals, antique 
 gems, and rings; mosaics, cameos, medals, and coins; Grecian pottery; 
 drawings by Rubens. Rembrandt, and Vandyke ; facsimile of the sarco- 
 phagus in which the Portland Vase was found. 
 
 NATIONAL GALLERY (THE), 
 
 On the north side of Trafalgar-square, was built between 1832 and 
 1838, from the design of Professor Wilkins, R.A., and was his latest 
 work. Its length is 461 feet, and the greatest width ."6 feet ; and it is 
 built partly with the materials of the King's Mews, the site of which 
 it occupies. The best feature is the centre, the Corinthian columns 
 of which are from the portico of Carlton House, and are adapted from 
 the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome.* This portico has interior 
 columns, the only example in the metropolis ; and the view commands 
 the broad vista of Parliament-street and Whitehall, and the picturesque 
 towers of the Palace at Westminster. But the Gallery central dome is 
 ill-proportioned and puny; and the corresponding cupolas upon the 
 wings are poor imitations of Vanbrugh's embellishment of private man- 
 sions. Through the western wing is a passage leading to a barrack 
 parade; and in the eastern wing is a thoroughfare to Duke's-court, 
 claimed by the inhabitants as a right of way long enjoyed by them 
 through the King's Mews. The vestibule is divided, by screens of 
 scagliola columns (with scenic effect), into two halls ; and from each is 
 a staircase leading to the upper floors, each a suite of five rooms. The 
 eastern wing is appropriated to the ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, which 
 see. The western wing is occupied by the national collection of pic- 
 tures, but is ill adapted for large gallery pictures. The ground-floor 
 is mostlv official apartments, but was originally intended as a deposi- 
 tory for public records : here was temporarily exhibited the Vernon Col- 
 lection, previous to its removal to Marlborough House. (See page 490.) 
 In the vestibule is the stupendous Waterloo Vase, sculptured by Sir 
 Richard Westmacott, R.A , from Carrara marble captured from the 
 French, who intended it for a vase to commemorate Napoleon's tri- 
 umphs: the principal relief celebrates the battle of Waterloo. In the 
 hall is S. Joseph's marble statue of David Wilkie, R.A., with his 
 palette inserted beneath glass in the pedestal. Here also is a fine alto- 
 relievo, in marble, by T. Banks, R. A., of Thetis and her Nymphs rising 
 from the Sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Patroclus. 
 
 * A complete set of casts from these fine specimens of ancient art exists in 
 tbe Museum of Mr. Joseph Gwilt, F.S.A., Abingdon-street, Westminster. 
 
NATIONAL GALLERY (THE). 549 
 
 The National Gallery was founded in 1824, by the purchase of 
 Mr. Angerstein 's collection of pictures for 57,000/. : it is said, upon the 
 suggestion of George IV.; but it originated equally in Sir George 
 Beaumont's offer, in 1823, to the Trustees of the British Museum, to 
 present his collection to the public. The Angerstein pictures (38) were 
 first exhibited in the house of Mr. Angerstein, 100 Pall Mall, May 10, 
 1824; whither Sir George Beaumont's 16 pictures were transferred in 
 1826. In 1831, 35 pictures were bequeathed by the Rev. W. Holwell 
 Carr; in 1836, 6 pictures were presented by William IV.; 17 be- 
 queathed in 1837 by Lieut.-Col. Ollney ; 15 bequeathed in 1838 by 
 Lord Farnborough; 14 bequeathed in 1846 by R. Simmons: and the 
 Gallery has since been increased, by donations, bequests, and compara- 
 tively few Government purchases, to about 200 pictures ; independently 
 of Mr. Vernon's works of the English School, presented in 1847, and 
 since removed, with the other English pictures, to Marlborough House. 
 
 The first Catalogue of the National Gallery, by \V. Young Ottley, has long 
 been out of print : the fullest extant is by R. N. Wornum. Among the more 
 notable pictures are two Groups of Saints, by Taddeo Gaddi, painted in tempera, 
 bright colour upon a gold background; curious specimens of middle-age art. 
 
 Italian School: The Virgin and Child, with Saints, and a Dead Christ (lunette) 
 from an altar-piece, by Frances o Franc a, early Bolognese School. Virgin and 
 Child, with St. John, by P. Perugino; divinely holy in character and expression. 
 The Raising of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo; the figure of Lazarus by 
 Michael Angelo. St. Catherine of Alexandria, the Vision of a Knight, portrait 
 of Pope Juaus II., and fragment of a Cartoon of the Murder of the Innocents, 
 by Raphael. Three of Correggio's greatest works: Mercury instructing Cupid 
 in the presence ot Venus ; the Ecce Homo; and the Holy Family (LaViergeau 
 Panier): the three pictures cost H,400/. A Holy Family, and Bacclius and 
 Ariadne, by Titian. Susannah and the Elders, by Ludovico Caracci. Eight works 
 of Annibale Caracci: Silenus gathering Grapes ; Pan (or Silenus) teaching Apollo 
 to play on the Reed; and Christ appearing to St. Peter. Eight works of Guido, 
 including Susannah and the Elders ; and Andromeda. Ten works of Claude 
 (Landscapes and Seaports), including the Chigi and Bouillon Claudes, the latter 
 the Embarkation of the Queen of Sneba. A fine Landscape (Mercury and the 
 Woodman) by Salvator Rosa. 
 
 Spanish, Scliovl: Philip of Spain hunting the Wild Boar, by Velasquez. The 
 Holy Family, St. John with the Lamb, and the Spanish Peasant-boy, by Mtirillo. 
 
 Flemish School: Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and Lady, in a bed- 
 chamber; under the mirror is written, "Johannes de Eyck fait hie, 1434." Nine 
 works of Kubens: including the Sabine Women ; Peace and War, presented to 
 Charles I. by Rubens, in 16.>0; the Brazen Serpent; St. Bavon, harmonious and 
 picturesque; Rubens's own Chateau; the Judgment of Paris, from the Orleans 
 Collection; and the Apotheosis of James 1., sketched for the Whitehall ceiling. 
 Vandyke's magnificent St. Ambrosius and the Emperor Theodosius ; and the 
 same painter's " Gevartius," or Vander Geest, a portrait scarcely equalled in the 
 world, but by some attributed to Rubens. The Woman taken in Adultery, one 
 of Rembrandt's finest early works; his Christ taken down from the Cross; his 
 Adoration of the Shepherds; a Woman Bathing; and three of his marvellous 
 portraits. A sunny Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Cuyp. The Misers, 
 or Money-changers, by David Teniers. 
 
 French School: Eight works of Nicolas Poussin, including two Bacchanalian 
 Festivals, and the Plague of Ashdod, very fine. Also, six works of Gaspar 
 Poussin, including his masterpiece, a Landscape with Abraham and Isaac ; and 
 his fine classical picture of Dido and ^Eneas in a storm. 
 
 The National Gallery is open to the public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wed- 
 nesdays, and Thur.>days; and on Fridays and Saturdays to students only. It 
 is open from 10 to 5, from October until April 30, inclusive; and from 10 to 6, 
 from May 1, inclusive, until the middle of September, when it is wholly closed 
 until the end of October. The expenses of the Gallery (exclusive of purchases) 
 are about lO^O/. per annum ; and it has been visited in one year by more than half 
 a million persons. 
 
 The design and inadequacy of the Gallery building have been uni- 
 versally condemned ; but it should be remembered that it scarcely cost 
 more than the marble arch for Buckingham Palace. 
 
550 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 NEW RIVER, 
 
 A fine artificial stream yielding almost half the water-supply of London, 
 or nearly the whole of the City and a large portion of the metropolis 
 northward of the Thames. New River rises from Chadwell Springs, 
 and springs at Amwell, between Hertford and Ware, 21 miles from 
 London, and is fed by the river Lea and wells sunk in the chalk. To 
 preserve a level, it takes a winding course, and was originally conveyed 
 across valleys in immense wooden troughs or aqueducts; but it now 
 flows through raised mounds of earth, at the rate of two miles an hour, 
 and averages 18 feet wide and 5 deep, falling 3 inches in each mile. 
 Having reached Stoke Newington, it passes onward by a subterraneous 
 channel of 300 yards, beneath Highbury, to the east of Islington ; rising 
 again in Colebrooke-row, and reaching its termination at the New 
 River Head, Clerkenwell : its entire length is 383 miles 16 poles. 
 It has 43 sluices, 215 bridges, and nearly 60 culverts, including the 
 Islington Tunnel. At Stoke Newington are two immense store reser- 
 voirs, covering 38 acres of land, where the water remains about seven 
 days for subsidence ; whence it passes to the Clerkenwell reservoir, about 
 5 acres, 85 feet above the mid-tide level of the Thames. Thence the 
 water flows by its own gravity into the mains (of iron, substituted for 
 wooden pipes between 1810 and 1820) supplying the lower district; 
 while two steam-engines pump the water into another reservoir 30 feet 
 higher, in Claremont-square, for the high services. The northern 
 district, including the hills of Hampstead, Highgate, &c., is supplied 
 from the Stoke Newington reservoirs, by steam-power; and at High- 
 gate are two other reservoirs, 320 and 430 feet above the Thames. In 
 the Hampstead-road is a reservoir, supplied bv steam-power from a well 
 sunk into the chalk, 230 feet deep, The entire supply of New River 
 water is about 18,000,000 gallons per day. 
 
 The New River was projected by Hugh Myddleton, a native of 
 Denbigh, and " citizen and goldsmith'," who proposed to the City to 
 bring to London a supply of water at his own cost. His offer was 
 accepted ; and April 20, 1608, was commenced the work, with very 
 imperfect mechanical resources. Myddleton embarked the whole of his 
 fortune in the undertaking : the original number of shares was only 36; 
 the labourers received half-a-crown a-day. The works were stopped at 
 Enfield for want of funds; Myddleton applied to the citizens for aid, 
 which they refused ; he then solicited James I., who, on May 2, 1612, 
 agreed to pay half the expense and become a partner, and advanced 
 6,437?. 11s. lOJrf., for which 19 additional shares were created. The 
 works were now resumed; and on the 29th of September, 1613, five 
 years and five months from the commencement of the undertaking, and 
 the day on which Sir Thomas Myddleton, Hugh's brother, was elected 
 lord-mayor, the water was let into the basin at Clerkenwell, with great 
 ceremony, before the lord-mayor, aldermen, and principal citizens : a 
 troop of labourers " wearing green Monmouth caps, and carrying 
 spades, shovels, and pickaxes," marched after drums round the cisteru j 
 and one man delivered 48 lines in verse, ending : 
 
 " Now for the fruits, then. Flow forth, precious spring, 
 So long and dearly sought for, and now bring 
 Comfort to all that love thee ; loudly sing, 
 And with thy crystal murmurs struck together, 
 Bid all thy true well-wishers welcome hither." 
 
 " When the floodgates flew open, the stream ran gallantly into the 
 cisterne, drummes and trumpets sounding in triumphall manner, and a 
 brave peal of chambers (guns) gave full issue to the intended entertain- 
 ment." The work cost about 500,000?. Myddleton was created a 
 
NEW-ROAD (THE). 551 
 
 baronet in 1622. The proprietors were incorporated in 1619 as the 
 New River Company, Sir Hugh being appointed the first governor, 
 and this being the first water-company ; although Ben Jonson, in 1598, 
 says, " We have water-companies now, instead of water-carriers." 
 (Every Man in his Humour.) 
 
 No dividend was made by the Company till 1633, when 117. 9*. "id. 
 was divided upon each share. The second dividend amounted to only 
 31. 4s. 2d., and more money was required ; when Charles I., rather than 
 advance it, in 1636 re-conveyed to Sir Hugh Myddleton the whole of 
 King James's shares for an annual rent of 5007., and the royal moiety 
 was divided into 36 " King's Shares," from which the above rent is 
 paid to this day into the Exchequer ; the other moiety being 36 " Ad- 
 venturers' Shares:" these 72 shares were in 1756 worth 50007. per 
 share ; they have since been subdivided, and a whole thirty-sixth share 
 of the King's has been sold for 10,6007. Sir Hugh Myddleton died in 
 1633, holding shares in the Company, and others in mines in Wales, and 
 was not so poor as usually represented. He bequeathed to the Gold- 
 smiths' Company one New River share, which formerly produced 3147. 
 per annum, but now does not reach 2007. : it is distributed half-yearly 
 among the poor of the Company, especially to men of Myddleton's 
 name or kindred. There is a fine portrait of Sir Hugh, by Janssen, at 
 Goldsmiths' Hall. (See page 352.) Yet his family fell into decay c 
 Lady Myddleton, the mother of the last Sir Hugh, received from the 
 Goldsmiths' Company a pension of 207. per annum, which was after- 
 wards continued to her son, with whom the baronetcy became extinct. 
 (Gentleman's Magazine, vol. liv. p. 805.) Some of the family have since 
 sought relief from the New River Company. 
 
 The New River Head is a vast circular basin enclosed by a brick 
 wall, whence the water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns, 
 and thence by mains and riders, named according to the districts which 
 they supply. Here is the Company's house, originally built in 1613: 
 the board- room, over one of the cisterns, is wainscoted, and has a fine 
 specimen of Gibbons's carving ; on the ceiling are a portrait of William 
 III , and the arms of Myddleton and Green. 
 
 North of the New River Head, the stream was formerly let into a 
 tank or reservoir under the stage of Sadler's Wells Theatre, which was 
 drawn up by machinery for " real water" scenes, the water being 
 sufficiently deep for men to swim in. Formerly, in the fields behind 
 the British Museum, the New River pipes were propped up 6 and 8 feet, 
 so that persons walked under them to gather watercresses. 
 
 The 72 New River Shares are stated to yield an annual profit of 43,2001., or 
 6001. a share; and a single share has been sold for 14.000Z. On Jan. 28, 1852, 
 three-sevenths of a quarter of a King's New River Share sold for 1600/. ; the 
 dividend on this share of a share producing ahout 901. per annum. The entire 
 works have cost about a million and a half of money ; and the gross income of 
 the Company is about 140,000/. per annum. 
 
 NEW-ROAD (THE), 
 
 From the Angel Inn, Islington, to the Yorkshire Stingo, Lisson Green, 
 was formed in 1757, "to avoid the stones :" and among advantages pro- 
 mised by the Act of Parliament, was the avoidance of "driving cattle 
 from the western road through the streets to Smithfield Market ;" and 
 in times of threatened invasion, "this New-road will form a complete 
 line of circumvallation, and his Majesty's forces may easily and ex- 
 peditiously march this way into Essex, to defend our coasts, without 
 passing through the cities of London and Westminster." Yet the road 
 was formidably opposed by the Duke of Bedford, lest the dust might 
 annoy him in his house half a mile off, and buildings might be erected, 
 
552 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 which would intercept his prospect; "but," said Walpole, "if he (the 
 Duke) is in town, he is too short-sighted to see the prospect." Within 
 half a century, Bedford House was levelled to the ground, and the fields 
 beyond it are now covered with houses, enlarging by many thousands 
 the income of the Bedford family, with a reversionary interest in a city 
 of itself. The New-road is the great omnibus route from Paddington 
 to the City; whereas in 1798 only one coach ran from Paddington to 
 the Bank, and the proprietor was nearly ruined by the speculation I 
 Shillibeer, the first omnibus-proprietor, fared no better in 1829. In 
 1853, Parliament sanctioned a railway to run beneath the New-road, 
 from Paddington to Battle-bridge. 
 
 NEWGATE-STREET, 
 
 Named from the City-gate at its east end, has on the south side the end 
 of Newgate Prison, and extends eastward to Cheapside, with lanes 
 and courts on the south leading to Paternoster-row. On the north 
 side is the front of the great hall of Christ's Hospital (see page 80), 
 built upon the site of Grty Friars' monastery ; the principal gates 
 have characteristic casts and sculpture. Nearly opposite is Warwick- 
 lane, with a bas-relief of Guy Earl of Warwick, dated 1668; the old 
 College of Physicians (see page 207) ; and the old inns, the Bell and 
 Oxford Arms. Next is Ivy-lane, " so called of ivy growing on the 
 walls of the Prebend-house." (Stow.) Here Dr. Johnson, in 1748, 
 with Hawkesworth and Hawkins, formed a Club for literary discussion. 
 Here also have lived publishers for two centuries. 
 
 " I was at Rayston's shop, in Ivie Lane, Febr. the 8, 1661. Hee printed the 
 Marquis of Winchester's conference with the King : hee printed most of the Roy- 
 alists' works, as Hamond's, Taylor's pieces, and others." Diary of Rev. John Ward. 
 
 On the north side, up a passage, is Christ Church, described at page 123. 
 Next is King Edward-street (see page 499). Above Bull- Head-court 
 is a stone bas-relief of William Evans, 7 feet 6 inches high, porter to 
 Charles I.; and Jeffrey Hudson, the king's dwarf, 3 feet 9 inches high. 
 Bath-street, first Pincock or Pentecost lane, and next Bagnio-court, 
 was named from there being here the first Bagnio in the town, after the 
 Turkish fashion ; now hot and cold baths. Nearly opposite is Pannier' 
 alley, on the east wall of which is the sculptured stone described at 
 page 457: it is stated by Stow to have been a sign. In Ben Jonson's 
 Bartholomew Fair we hear of the stinking tripe of Panyer-alley. In 
 Queen's- Head-passage is a Queen Anne tavern, now Dolly's Chop-house: 
 Gainsborough is said to have painted Dolly. 
 
 NEWINGTON, OR NEWINGTON BUTTS, 
 
 A large parish in Surrey, adjoining St. George, South wark, north and 
 east; Camberwell, south ; and Lambeth, west. In Domesday Book (llth 
 century), the only inhabited part of this parish was Walworth, where, 
 according to the Norman survey, was a church, upon the rebuilding 
 of which on a new site it probably became "surrounded with houses, 
 which obtained the name of Neweton, as it is called in the most ancient 
 records; it was afterwards spelt Newenton and Newington." (Lysons's 
 Environs, vol. i. p. 389.) Here were butts for archery practice : the 
 earliest record of Newington Butts is in the register of Archbishop 
 Pole at Lambeth, date 1558. In the reign of Henry VIII. (1546), three 
 men were condemned as Anabaptists, and " brent in the highway 
 beyond Southwark, towards Newenton." (Stow's Chronicle, p. 964.) 
 The only manor in the parish is Wahoorth, given by King Edmund 
 Ironside to Hitard, his jester, who, in the reign of Edward the Con- 
 fessor, gave the vill of Walworth to the monks of Christ Church at 
 
NEWINGTON, OR STOKE NEWINGTON. 553 
 
 Canterbury. They received from Edward II. a grant of free- warren 
 here; and in the reign of Edward III. and Richard II., and subse- 
 quently, the manor is said to have been held by persons of a family 
 named from this place : thus, Margaret de Walworth, lady of the ma- 
 nor in 1396, was the widow of the famous Sir William Walworth ; and 
 at Walworth is a modern sign of his killing Wat Tyler in Smithfield. 
 In the museum of the Society of Antiquaries is a dagger which was 
 found on the supposed site of Sir William's house at Walworth. (See 
 FISHMONGERS' HALL, page 350.) Sir George Walworth died seized 
 of the manor in 1474. In the valuation of Church property, 26 Henry 
 VIII., it is rated at 37 1. 8*. In the reign of Henry III., the queen's 
 goldsmith held of the king, in capite, one acre of land in Neweton, by 
 the service of rendering one gallon of honey. The old church (St. 
 Mary's) is described at page 146. There are district churches and va- 
 rious sectarian chapels. South of Newington Causeway (the first road 
 across the swampy fields) is Horsernonger-lane, opposite wlrch was 
 formerly a hay -market. In the lane is the County Gaol and Surrey 
 Sessions-house, built upon the site of a market-garden, three and a half 
 acres, by George Gwilt, 1798-9. At Walworth, upon a demesne once 
 attached to the manor-house, are the Surrey Zoological Gardens, where 
 Cross removed his menagerie from the King's Mews in 1831. 
 
 Maitland notes : west of the Fishmongers' Almshouses (see page 5) " is a 
 moorish ground, with a small watercourse denominated the river Tygris, which 
 is part of Cnut's trench ; the outflux of which is on the east side of Rotherhithe 
 parish, where the Great Wet Dock is situate." In 1823, when the road between 
 the almshouses and Newington church was dug up for a new sewer, some piles 
 and posts were discovered, with rings for mooring barges; also a pot of coins of 
 Charles II. and William III. A parishioner named Farns, who died, aged 109 
 years, early in the present century, remembered when boats came up this " river" 
 as far as the church at Newington. (Brayley's Surrey, vol. iii. p. 405.) The old 
 Elephant and Castle is noticed at page 399. 
 
 NEWINGTON GREEN, 
 
 In the parishes of Stoke Newington and Islington, had, within the 
 present century, several ancient houses, one of which, on the south side, 
 was traditionally a palace of Henry VIII. ; and a path leading from the 
 Green to Ball's Pond turnpike has been, time out of mind, called King 
 Henry's Walk: the house was, however, evidently built in the reign 
 of James I. At the north-west corner of the Green was " Bishop's 
 Place," where Henry Algernon, Earl of Percy, is said to have written 
 his memorable letter disclaiming matrimonial contract with Queen 
 Anne Boleyn, dated "at Newington Greene," the 13th of May, 28th 
 Henry VIII. Here lived several of the ejected ministers, towards the 
 close of the 17th century. (See DISSENTERS' CHAPELS, page 175.) 
 Adjoining Bishop's Place was a porch-house, wherein was born, in 
 1762, Samuel Rogers, the poet. 
 
 " His boyish enthusiasm led Rogers to sigh for an interview with Dr. Johnson ; 
 and to attain this, he twice presented himself at the door of Johnson's well- 
 known house in Bolt-court, Fleet-street. On the first occasion, the great moralist 
 was not at home; and the second time, after he had rung the bell, the heart of 
 the young aspirant misgave him, and he retreated without waiting for the servant. 
 Rogers was then in his fourteenth year." R. Carruthers. 
 
 NEWINGTON, OR STOKE NEWINGTON, 
 
 In Domesday, Newtone, and Stoke Neweton as early as 1391, is named 
 from the Saxon stoc, wood, it having been part of the ancient forest 
 of Middlesex ; and in 1649 here were upwards of 77 acres of wood- 
 land in demesne. It is separated from Hackney and Ossulston by the 
 great road, anciently the Ermen-street. Tradesmen's tokens were 
 
554 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 issued from here in the 17th century : one exists with " Laurence Short, 
 Adam and Eve" (in the field between Islington church and the City. 
 road) ; and another, " John Ball, at the Boarded House, neere Newing- 
 ton Greene," who kept alow house for bull-baiting, duck-hunting, &c. at 
 Ball's Pond, long since filled up, but it gives name to a little hamlet. 
 At Stoke Newington lived Fleetwood,the Parliamentary general: Daniel 
 Defoe and Thomas Day (Sandford and Mertori) were educated here; 
 John Howard, the philanthropist, lodged here, and married his land- 
 lady; Hannah Snell, the soldier, lived in Church-street; here died Mrs. 
 Barbauld, in 1825, in her 82d year. The mansion of Sir Thomas Abney, 
 where Dr. Watts resided with his pious friend, existed until 1844, the 
 fine grounds now being the Abney Park Cemetery. (See page 69.) '< 
 
 NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 The earliest printed London newspaper is preserved in the British 
 Museum, and is the Weekly Newes, May 23, 1622, by Nathaniel But- 
 ter, whose invention was ridiculed in Ben Jonson's "Staple of News, 
 1625 ; and a few months after, in Fletcher's Fair Maid of the Inn: it 
 was sold "at the Exchange, and in Pope's-head Pallace." In 1G96 
 there were nine newspapers published in London, all weekly. In 17< 9 
 the newspapers had increased to eighteen : in this year appeared the 
 Daily Courant, the first morning paper; and to the reign of Queen 
 Anne the first publication of " regular newspapers" must be referred. 
 In 1724 there were three daily, six weekly, seven three times a-week, 
 three halfpenny posts, and the London Gazette twice a-week; in 1792, 
 thirteen daily, and twenty semi-weekly and weekly papers. 
 
 The oldest existing London papers are, the English Chronicle, or 
 Whitehall Evening Post, started 1747 ;* the Public Ledger, commenced 
 Jan. 12, 1760, by Newbery, the bookseller, and in which appeared 
 Goldsmith's Citizen of the World; the St. James's Chronicle, 1761 ; and 
 the Morning Chronicle, 1769. 
 
 The Morning Chronicle was conducted by "William Woodfall till 
 1789, when he was succeeded by James Perry, who introduced the 
 present system of reporting the debates in Parliament. Mr. (Serjeant) 
 Spankie was long editor of the Chronicle ; Lord Campbell commenced 
 on it his London career, and was its theatrical critic in 1810. Cole- 
 ridge and Campbell were contributors. Sheridan names the Chronicle 
 in his Critic; Canning, in a poem; Byron addressed to it a familiar 
 letter ; Hazlitt was its theatrical critic ; and here first appeared 
 Sketches by Boz (Charles Dickens), who resides in Tavistock House, 
 where Mr. Perry lived many years. After Perry's death (1821), the 
 Chronicle was purchased for*42,OOOJ. by Mr. Clement, who, in 1834, sold 
 it to Sir John Easthope, Bart. Until 1822, the Chronicle was printed 
 at 143 Strand : and in the same office was subsequently printed, by John 
 Limbird, the Mirror, the first of the cheap illustrated periodicals. 
 
 The Morning Post, established in 1772, circulated in 1795 only 350 
 a-day. Coleridge, in his Table- Talk, states that he raised the sale in 
 one year to 7000 ; in 1803 it was 4500 : 
 
 "Coleridge, long before his flighty pen 
 Let to the Morning Post its aristocracy." Byron's Don Juan. 
 
 Sir James Mackintosh and Charles Lamb were also contributors ; and 
 Mackworth Praed, the poet, was some time editor. 
 
 The Morning Herald was commenced Nov. 1, 1780, by Mr. Bate, 
 afterwards Sir Henry Bate Dudley, who seceded from the Morning Post. 
 
 * There had previously been a London Chronicle, which was regularly read 
 by George III., whose copy of it may be seen in the British Museum. Hunt's 
 Fourth Estate, vol. ii. p. 99. 
 
NEWSPAPERS. 555 
 
 The Times was commenced by John Walter, in Printing-House- 
 square, Blackfriars, previously the site of the King's Printing-House.* 
 The first number, Jan. 1, 1788 (that in the British Museum has no stamp), 
 was a continuation of the Daily Universal Register, No. 939, which, with 
 the Times, was " printed logographically," i. e. with stereotyped words 
 and metal letters. In 1803, the late John Walter, son of the above, became 
 
 steam, from two machines made by Koenig, which produced 1800 per 
 hour, until 1827, when they were superseded by Applegath and Cow- 
 per's four-cylindered machine, yielding 5000 impressions per hour : 
 and in 1848 was erected Applegath's vertical machine, producing 8000 
 copies in an hour. Mr. Walter died in Printing -House- square in 1847, 
 bequeathing a large personal estate, and having erected and endowed 
 a handsome church at Bearwood, Berks. He devised his interest iti the 
 Times to his son, Mr. John Walter, M.P. for Nottingham, the present 
 proprietor; the journal being thus still in the hands of the family of its 
 founder, and in this respect standing alone amongst the morning 
 papers. (Hunt's Fourth Estate, vol. ii. p. 153.) Amongst the many 
 valuable services rendered by the Times to the commercial world, was 
 the detection and exposure of the Bogle conspiracy in 1841 ; in indem- 
 nification of which, 2Q25L the Times Testimonial was subscribed by 
 the London merchants and bankers, but was declined; and the amount 
 was invested in scholarships at Christ's Hospital and the City of Lon- 
 don School, where and in the Royal Exchange are commemorative 
 tablets, as also upon the facade of the Times Office. 
 
 The Times Printing Machinery may be inspected, by previously 
 obtained cards, at 11 a.m., when the second edition of the paper is 
 being printed. In a large room is a circular gallery, about 25 feet in 
 diameter and 6 from the ground, surmounting 8 large fabrics radiating 
 from a central tower or drum, each fabric being attached to one of the 
 8 printing-cylinders. In the gallery are 8 men feeding the 8 mouths 
 of the machine, each at the rate of 1 sheet in 4 seconds : under these 
 8 men are 8 others, who take off the printed sheets thrown out of the 
 machine. On the face of the drum are the four forms of type, in con- 
 tact with which are brought the 8 printing-cylinders, their bearings 
 being carried by the framing which supports the central drum, so that 
 they all revolve in perfect correspondence. Between the forms of type 
 on the drum are inking-tables, which communicate the ink to upright 
 rollers placed between the several printing-cylinders, the rollers in 
 their turn inking the type. In fact, the machine is composed of the 
 parts in ordinary use, but made circular, and placed in a vertical instead 
 of a horizontal position. The ingenious mode of feeding the printing- 
 cylinders with sheets of paper, and shifting their positions, is the great 
 problem of the invention. (See Weale's London, page 76.) 
 
 The Times has quintupled its circulation since 1838. Its average 
 sale in the year 1855 was 59,000 per diem. The Paper and Supple- 
 ment, 72 columns, are made up of more than a million of pieces of type. 
 In 1846, the profit on each copy was stated to be g of a penny, out of 
 which were to be defrayed all the expenses of the journal, except paper 
 and stamp : the annual amount of stamp-duty was then 60,OOOJ. The 
 large issues of the Times were, Oct. 29, 1844 (opening of the New 
 Royal Exchange), 50,000. Jan. 28, 1846 (Sir R. Peel's speech on the 
 * Beneath the Times office is a fragment of the Roman wall, upon which is a 
 Norman or Early English reparation ; and upon that are the remains of a pas- 
 sage and window, which probably belonged to the Blackfriars monastery. 
 National Miscellany, October 1853. 
 
556 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Corn Laws and the Tariff), 52,000, when the usual number was between 
 27 and 28,000. March 1, 1848 (French Revolution), 48,000. April 11, 
 1848 (Chartist Meeting), 46,000. May 2, 1851 (opening of the Great 
 Exhibition), 55,000. Sept* 15 and 16, 1852 (Death of the Duke of Wel- 
 lington), 2 days, each 53,000. Nov. 19, 1852 (Funeral of the Duke), 
 70,000. The advertisements during June 1853 averaged 1500 each day; 
 and in one day in June there were 2250 inserted ! the greatest number 
 that ever appeared in one paper. It has been stated, that in printing 
 one of the above large issues were used 7 tons of paper; surface 
 ' printed, 30 acres ; weight of type, 7 tons. 
 
 Among the literary collaborators of the Times, the names of 
 Barnes, Sterling, and Twiss are prominent. Mr. Justice Talfourd and 
 Baron Alderson were once upon its staff. The editorship was offered 
 to Southey, with a salary of 2000Z. per annum, but was declined ; and 
 a similar o'ffer was made to the poet Moore, with a like result. 
 
 The Morning Advertiser was established in 1795, as the organ of the 
 interests and charities of Licensed Victuallers. 
 
 The Daily News dates from 1846, and is the only successful attempt 
 (save one, the Advertiser) to establish a morning paper since the Times. 
 
 The Star, the first daily evening newspaper, established in 1783 by 
 Peter Stuart, was long conducted by Dr. Tilloch, editor of the Philo- 
 sophical Magazine. 
 
 Johnson's Sunday Monitor, the first newspaper published on the 
 Sabbath, appeared in 1778. The oldest weekly newspaper is the Ob- 
 server, established 1792. BelFs Weekly Messenger dates from 1796. 
 
 The Illustrated London News, projected by Herbert Ingram, and 
 commenced May 14, 1842, enjoys the largest sale of the weekly papers; 
 in 1855 its usual weekly sale exceeded 140,000. Its largest issue was 
 230,000, double number (Funeral of the Duke of Wellington). 
 
 Newspapers are filed at Peele's Coffee-House, Nos. 177 and 178 
 Fleet-street (see page 203) ; at Deacon's, No. 3 Walbrook (see page 
 201); and at the British Museum (see page 525). 
 
 OLD BAILEY, 
 
 The street extending from Ludgate-hill to Newgate-street ; " outside 
 of Ludgate, parallel with the walls as far as Newgate." Hence the 
 name from the ballium, or outer space, near Ludgate,* its relative po- 
 sition in regard to the ancient wall of the City ; the remains of which 
 may be traced in some massive stone-work in Seacoal-lane, at the bot- 
 tom of Breakneck-steps, west of the Old Bailey ; and opposite its 
 entrance from Ludgate-hill, in St. Martin's-court. (See page 447.) 
 Maitland, however, refers Old Bailey to Bail-hill; an eminence whereon 
 was situated the bail, or bailiff's house, wherein he held a court for 
 the trial of malefactors : and the place of security where the Sheriff 
 keeps the prisoners during the session is still named the Sail- dock. 
 Stow states the Chamberlain of London to have kept his court here in 
 the reign of Edward III. In Pennant's time, here stood Sydney House 
 (then occupied by a coachmaker), the mansion of the Svdneys till they 
 removed to Leicester-fields. (See page 453.) The Old- Bailey Sessions- 
 house is described at pp. 447-448. 
 
 " By a sort of second-sight, the Surgeons' Theatre was built near this court of 
 conviction and Newgate, the concluding stage of the lives forfeited to the justice 
 of their country, several years before the fatal tree was removed from Tyburn to 
 
 * The church of St. Peter in the Bailey, at Oxford, derives its appellation 
 from having formerly stood within the outer ballium of Oxford Castle. 
 
OLD BAILEY. 557 
 
 h present site. It is a handsome building, ornamented with Ionic pilasters, 
 I nl with a double flight of steps to the first floor. Beneaih is a door for the 
 llmission of the bodies of murderers and other felons, who, noxious in their 
 Ives, make a sort of reparation to their fellow-creatures by becoming useful after 
 liath." Pennant. 
 
 I After the execution of Lord Ferrers, at Tyburn, in 1760, the body 
 |'as conveved in his own landau and six to Surgeons' Hall, to undergo 
 iie remainder of the sentence. A large incision having been made from 
 Rie neck to the bottom of the breast, and another across the throat, the 
 mver part of the belly was laid open, and the bowels were taken away, 
 i'he body was afterwards publicly exposed to view in a first-floor room ; 
 [nd a print of the time shows the corpse "as it lay in the Surgeons' 
 llall." Here sat the Court of Examiners, by whom Oliver Gold- 
 Imith was rejected 21st December, 1758 ; and in the books of the Col- 
 pge of Surgeons, amidst a long list of candidates who passed, occur: 
 t James Bernard, mate to an hospital. Oliver Goldsmith, found not 
 Qualified for ditto." "A rumour of this rejection long existed; and on 
 I hint from Mat on, the king's physician, Mr. Prior succeeded in dis- 
 jovering it." (Forster's Life and Adventures of Oliver Goldsmith, 
 page 140.) Surgeons' Hall was taken down in 1809, and upon its site 
 vas built the New Sessions-house; whence the prison of Newgate 
 j-xtends on the east side of the street, widened at the north end by the 
 emoval of the houses of the Little Old Bailey. Here the place of 
 ;xecution was changed from Tyburn in 1783, and the first culprit exe- 
 iuted Dec. 9. The gallows was built with three cross-beams, for as many 
 ows of sufferers; and between February and December 1785, ninety- 
 ;ix persons suffered by "the new drop," substituted for the cart. About 
 1786, here was the last execution followed by burning the body; when a 
 woman was hung upon a low gibbet, and life being extinct, fagots were 
 jiled around her and over her head, fire was set to the pile, and the 
 iorpse burnt to ashes. On one occasion the old mode of execution was 
 enewed : a triangular gallows was set up in the road opposite Green- 
 Arbour-court, and the cart was drawn from under the criminals' feet,* 
 Memorable Executions in the Old Bailey. Mrs. Phepoe, murderess, Dec. 11, 
 1797. Governor Wall, murder, Jan. 28, 1802. Holloway and Haggerty, murder, Feb. 
 22, 1807 (30 spectators trodden to death). Bellingham, assassin of Mr. Perceval, 
 May 18, 1812. Eliza Penning, poisoning, July 26, 1815. Arthur Thistlewood 
 md4 others (Cato-street gang, see page 67), murder and treason, May 1, 1820 
 (their bodies were decapitated by a surgeon on the scaffold). Fauntleroy, the 
 janker, forgery, Nov. 30, 1824. Joseph Hunton (Quaker), forgery, Dec. 8, 1828. 
 Bishop and Williams, murder (barkers), Dec. 5, 1831. John Pegsworth, mur- 
 der, March 7, 1837. James Greenacre, murder, May 2, 1837. Courvoisier, 
 lurder of Lord William Russell, July 6, 1840. 
 
 In Green-Arbour-court, No. 12, at the corner of Breakneck-steps, 
 in Seacoal-lane, leading from Farringdon-street, lodged Oliver Gold- 
 smith from 1758 to 1760, wh^n he wrote for the Monthly Review; and 
 the editor, Griffiths, became security for the suit, of clothes in which 
 Goldsmith offered himself for examination at Surgeons' Hall. In this 
 miserable lodging he was writing his Polite Learning Enquiry, when 
 Dr. Percy called upon him, and the fellow-lodger's poor ragged girl 
 came to borrow "a chamberpotful of coals." The house was taken 
 down twenty years since, and stables now occupy its site. 
 
 * It was formerly the usage to execute the criminal near the scene of his 
 guilt. Those who were punished capitally for the Riots of 1780 suffered in such 
 parts of the town as they were detected; and in 1790 two incendiaries were 
 hanged in Aldersgate-street, at the eastern end of Long-lane, opposite the site of 
 the house they had set fire to. Since that period there have been few executions 
 in L'indon, except in front of Newgate. The last deviation from the regular 
 course was in the case of the sailor Cashman, who was hung, in 1817, in Skinner- 
 street, opposite the shop of Mr. Beckwith, the gunsmith, which he had plundered. 
 
558 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Peter Bales, the celebrated penman, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 
 kept a writing-school, in 1590, at the upper end of the Old Bailey, and 
 published here his Writing School-Master : in a writing trial he won 
 a golden pen, value 201. ; and the "arms of caligraphy, viz. azure, a 
 pen or, were given to Bales as a prize." (Sir George Buck.} Prynne's 
 Histrio-Mastix was printed "for Michael Sparke, and sold at the Blue 
 Bible, in Little Old Bayly, 1633." 
 
 William Camden, " the nourrice of antiquitie," was born in the 
 Old Bailey, where his father was a painter-stainer. In Ship-court, on 
 the west side, was born William Hogarth, the painter ; and at the cor-^ 
 ner of Ship-court, No. 67, three doors from Ludgate-hill, William 
 Hone kept a little shop, where he published his noted " Parodies" in 
 1817, for which he was three times tried and acquitted.* Next door,- 
 at No. 68, lived the infamous Jonathan Wild. 
 
 OLD JEWRY, 
 
 A street leading from the Poultry to Cateaton-street ; and " so called' 
 of Jews some time dwelling there and near adjoining" (Stoic), first 
 brought here by William Duke of Normandy. They had here, at the 
 north-west corner, a synagogue, suppressed" in 1291 ; it was next the 
 church of the Friars of the Sack : here Robert Large kept his mayoralty 
 in 1439; Hugh Clopton in 1492; and in Stow's time it was the Windmill 
 Tavern, mentioned in Ben Jonson's Every Man in his Humour : its site 
 is denoted by Windmill-court. " In the reign of Henry VI., at the 
 north end was one of the king's palaces" (Hattori); in the reign of 
 Richard III. it was called the Prince's Wardrobe ; and in 1548, end 
 Edward VI., it was sold to Sir Anthony Cope. On the west side, about 
 40 yards from Cheapside, was built in 1670 the Mercers' Chapel Gram- 
 mar School, removed in 1787, when Old Jewry was widened. 
 
 On the eastern side is the Lord Mayor's Court- office (see p. 452). 
 In a courtyard here is the stately mansion built by Sir Robert Clayton 
 for keeping his shrievalty in 1671. It stands upon a stone balustraded 
 terrace. The house is of ornamental brickwork: the staircase was 
 painted with the story of Hercules and Omphale, by Sir James Thorn- 
 hill, in chiaro-oscuro ; besides a copy of the Rape of De'ianira, after 
 Guide. John Evelyn, who had a great feast here, describes in his 
 Diary, Sept. 26th, 1672, the mansion as " built indeede for a greate ma- 
 gistrate, at excessive cost. The cedar dining-room is painted with the 
 history of the Gyants' War, incomparably done by Mr. Streeter ; but 
 the figures are too near the eye." Mr. Bray, the editor of the Diary, 
 adds (1818), " These paintings have long since been removed to the seat 
 of the Clayton family at Marden, near Godstone, in Surrey." 
 
 In 1679-80, March 9, Charles II. and the Duke of York supped at 
 the mansion in the Old Jewry, with Sir Robert Clayton, then Lord 
 Mayor : the balconies of the houses in the streets were illuminated with 
 flambeaux ; and the king and the duke had a passage made for them by 
 the Trained Bands upon the guard, from Cheapside. The mansion was 
 subsequently tenanted by several eminent citizens; then by Samuel 
 Sharp, the celebrated surgeon ; in 1806 it was opened as the temporary 
 
 * At the same time, Hone kept shop at 55 Fleet-street : here he published 
 the Life of Eliza Penning, who was hung, in 1815, for administering poison to 
 the family of Turner, a law-stationer, in Chancery-lane. Hone's account of Eliza 
 Penning shews her to have been guiltless; and Turner's house had to be protected 
 from the fury of the populace. In 1833 it was stated in the Times newspaper, 
 that Turner's brother, upon his deathbed, had confessed that he had adminis- 
 tered the poison, for which crime Eliza Penning had suffered innocently. In 
 Fleet-street Hone published the first of his political satire>, illustrated by George 
 Cruikshauk. No. 62 was the shop of Richard Carlile, the freethinking publisher. 
 
OMNIBUS (THE). 559 
 
 ; aouse of the London Institution (see page 471) ; next as the Museum 
 of the London Missionary Society ; and it is now divided into offices. 
 
 In Ben Jonson's Every Man in his Humour, Master Stephen dwells at Hogs- 
 sien, the dwellers of which have a long suburb to pass before they reach London. 
 i ' I am sent for this morning by a friend in the Old Jewry to come to him : it is 
 pit crossing over the fields to Moorgate." In the Old Jewry dwelt Cob the 
 LJjvaterman, by the wall at the bottom of Coleman-street, "at the sign of the Water 
 jfankard, hard by the Green Lattice." C. Knight's London, vol. i. p. 368. 
 
 OLD-STKEET, 
 
 i|0r Eald-street, is part of a Roman military way, which anciently led 
 from the eastern to the western parts of the kingdom. Old-street 
 [extends from opposite the north-eastern corner of Charter-house gar- 
 
 ien to St. Luke's church (see page 164) ; whence to Shoreditch church 
 [seepage 134) the continuation is Old- Street-road, where are St. Luke's 
 [see page 384) and the London Lying-in Hospitals. St. Leonard's, 
 Khoreditch, was anciently a village upon the Eald-street, at some dis- 
 tance north of London; Hoxton, or Hocheston, was originally a small 
 [pillage, and had a market ; and the manor of Finsbury, in the reign of 
 ttHenry VIII., consisted chiefly of fields, orchards, and gardens. Old- 
 Street was also famous- for its nursery-grounds; and here are several 
 mlmshouses, mostly built when this suburb was open, healthful ground. 
 vPesthouse-lane (now Bath-street) is named from apesthouse established 
 fcere during the Great Plague of 1665, and removed in 1737. In Brick- 
 Kane is one of the three earliest stations established by the first Gas 
 Light Company in the metropolis, incorporated in 1812. 
 
 I Picthatch, a profligate resort, named in the plays of Shakspeare, 
 
 Ben Jonson, and Middleton, was supposed to have been in Turnmill- 
 fcreet, Clerkenwell, until Mr. Cunningham identified Picthatch with 
 if Pickax-yard," in Old-street, near the Charter-house. (See Hand- 
 looft, 2d edit. p. 400.) 
 
 I At the corner of Old-street, in the City-road, are Vinegar-works, formerly the 
 [ jroperty of Mr. James Calvert, who won the first 20,OOOZ. prize ever drawn in an 
 
 English lottery, and in a subsequent lottery gained 5000/. ; yet he died in extreme 
 
 .oveny, Feb. 26, 1799. 
 
 OMNIBUS (THE), 
 
 k hackney carriage for twelve or more passengers inside, is stated to 
 >ave been tried about the year 1800, with four horses and six wheels, 
 >ut unsuccessfully. We remember a long-bodied East Grinstead coach 
 jn 1808 ; and a like conveyance between Hemel Hempstead, Herts, and 
 jhe metropolis. The Greenwich stages were mostly of this build ; and a 
 maracter in the farce of Too Late for Dinner, produced in 1820, talks of 
 i'the great green Greenwich coach," the omnibus of that period. Still, 
 ts invention is claimed for M. Baudry, of Nantes. It has been extended 
 !o all parts of the world : even in the sandy environs of Cairo you are 
 vhisked to your hotel in an Oriental omnibus. 
 
 Mr. Shillibeer, in his evidence before the Board of Health, states 
 
 hat on July 4, 1829, he started the first pair of omnibuses in the me- 
 
 ropolis from the Bank to the Yorkshire Stingo, New-road; copied 
 
 rom Paris, where M. Lafitte, the banker, had previously established om- 
 
 jibuses in 1819. Each of Shillibeer's vehicles carried 22 passengers inside, 
 
 imt only the driver outside ; and each omnibus was drawn by three 
 
 tones abreast : the fare was 1*. for the whole journey, and 6d. for half 
 
 i jhe distance; and for some time the passengers were provided with 
 
 Periodicals to read on the journey. Shillibeer's first "conductors" 
 
 | were the two sons of British naval officers, who were succeeded by 
 
 I oung men in velvet liveries. The first omnibuses were called " Shilli- 
 
560 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 beers," and the name is common to this day in New York. Omnibuses 
 ruined the elder branch of the Bourbons in 1830: the accidental upset 
 of an omnibus suggested the first idea of a barricade, and thus changed 
 the whole science of revolutions. 
 
 Each London omnibus costs about 1201., and 10 horses for the same 200Z.; 
 harness, 20/. ; stable utensils, 51. ; annual repairs, 521. ; wear and tear of horses, 
 20s. per week for each omnibus; rent of stabling, 201. The salaries of drivers, 
 conductors, stable-men, time-keepers, clerks, smiths, &c. (upwards of 11,000), 
 average 28s. each man. Each omnibus pays about 108/. yearly duty. There are 
 nearly 30CO omnibuses, stated to have cost 1,020,000/., and to require a further 
 annual outlay of 2,700,000/. to maintain on the streets. The 30,000 horses cost 
 annually two millions of money for hay, straw, and corn, and shoeing. Each 
 omnibus has about 300 fares daily, or 2000 per week; and the whole number of 
 omnibuses 6,000,000 per week, or 300,000,000 a-year. Each omnibus averages 
 between 40 and 50 miles a-day. Annual amount of fares three millions sterling. 
 
 OXFORD-STREET, 
 
 Originally Tyburn-road, and next Ox ford- road (the highway to Ox- 
 ford), extends from the site of the village pound of St. Giles's (where 
 High-street and Tottenham-Court-road meet), westward to Hyde Park 
 Corner, li mile in length, containing upwards of 400 houses. Hatton, 
 in 1708, described it " between St. Giles's Pound east, and the lane 
 leading to the gallows west." It follows the ancient military road 
 (Via Trinovantica, Stukeley), which crossed the Watling-street at 
 Hyde Park Corner, and was continued thence to Old- street (Eald- 
 street), north of London. During the Civil War, in 1643, a redoubt 
 was erected near St. Giles's Pound, and a large fort with half bulwarks 
 across the road opposite Wardour- street. In a map of 1707, on the 
 south side. King-street, Golden-square, is perfect to Oxford-road, be- 
 tween which and Berwick-street are fields ; hence to St. Giles's is 
 covered with buildings, but westward not a house is seen; the north 
 side contains a few scattered buildings, but no semblance of streets 
 west of Tottenham-Court-road. A plan of 1708 shews, at the soutb 
 end of Mill-hill Field, the Lord Mayor's Banquetting- house, at the 
 north-east corner of the bridge arcross Tvburn brook (over which is 
 built the west side of Stratford-place). In the above plan is also shewn 
 the Adam and Eve, a detached roadside public-house in the " Dung, 
 field," near the present Adam-and-Eve-court, almost opposite Poland- 
 street ; and in an adjoining field is represented the boarded house of Figg, 
 the prize-fighter. "The row of houses on the north side of Tyburn-road 
 was completed in 1729, and it was then called Oxford-street" (Lysons's 
 Environs) ; but a stone upon a house on the north side is inscribed, " Rath- 
 bone-place, Oxford-street, 1718:" it was built by Captain Rathbone. 
 In this year were commenced Hanover-square, and " round about, so 
 many other edifices, that a whole magnificent city seems to be risen out 
 of the ground. On the opposite side of the way, towards Marylebone, 
 is marked out a square, and many streets to form avenues to it.' ! : 
 ( Weekly Medley, 1718.) Vere street Chapel and Oxford Market were 
 built about 1724; five years later were begun most of the streets lead- 
 ing to Cavendish- square. 
 
 A map of 1742 shews the little church of St. Marylebone, in the fields, witf 
 two zigzag ways leading to it: one near Vere-street, then the western limit o: 
 the new buildings; and the second from Tottenham-Courr-road. Rows of houses 
 with their backs to the fields, extend from St. Gilrs's Pound to Oxford Market 
 but Tottenham-Court-road has only one cluster on the west side, and the spring 
 water house. Thus, Oxford-street, from Oxford Market to Vere-s-reet, soutl 
 and west, Marylebone-street north, and the site of Tichfield-street east, fonr 
 the limit of the new buildings; the ziszag way from Vere-street (now Mary- 
 lebone-lane) leading from the high-road to the village. 
 
 Pennant remembered Oxford-street " a deep hollow road, and ful 
 
OXFORD-STREET. 56 L 
 
 of sloughs ; with here and there a ragged house, the lurking-place of 
 cut-throats:" insomuch that he "never was taken that way by night," 
 in a hackney-coach, to his uncle's in George-street, but he "went in 
 dread the whole way." 
 
 Cumberland-place, begun about 1774, was named from the hero of 
 Culloden, of whom there is a portrait-sign at a public-house in Great 
 Cumberland-street. At the western extremity of Oxford-street, in 
 the first house in Edgware-road, immediately opposite to Tyburn turn- 
 pike, lived for many years the Corsican General Paoli, who was god- 
 father to the Emperor Napoleon. (Notes and Queries.) 
 
 Stratford-place was built 1787-90, upon the site of Conduit-Mead. 
 At the north end is Aldborough House (erected for Edward Stratford, 
 Earl of Aldborough), with a handsome Ionic stone front and a Doric 
 colonnade. Here, until 1805, stood a naval trophied Corinthian column 
 with a statue of George III., set up in 1797 by Lieut. -Gen. Strode. 
 
 No. 315, Oxford-street, is the facade of the Laboratories of the 
 COLLEGE OF CHEMISTRY. (Seepage 206.) 
 
 Portland-place was built by the architects Adam, about 1778 : it is 
 126 feet wide, and in 1817 was terminated at the north end by an 
 apen railing looking over the fields towards the New-road; when "the 
 ample width of the foot- pavement, the purity of the air, and the prospect 
 of the rich and elevated villages of Hampstead and Highgate, rendered 
 Portland -place a most agreeable summer promenade." (Hughson's 
 London.) Here lived Robert Farquhar, the millionaire, who purchased 
 ?onthill ; at No. 43, Sir Felix Booth, from whom Sir John Ross named 
 Joothia Felix ; Lord Chief- Justice Denman at No. 38. In Park-crescent 
 ong resided the Count de Surveilliers (Joseph Bonaparte) ; and in the 
 garden, facing Portland-place, is a bronze statue (height 7 feet 2 inches), 
 y Gahagan, of the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria. 
 
 The Crystal Palace in Hyde Park -was nearly the length of Portland Place. 
 : I walked out one evening," says Sir Charles Fox, ' and there setting out the 
 848 feet upon the pavement, found it the same length within a few yards; and 
 hen considered that the Great Exhibition Building would be three times the 
 ridth of that fine street, and the nave as high as the houses on either side." 
 
 Newman-street and Berners-street, built between 1750 and 1770, 
 arere from the first inhabited by artists of celebrity. In the former lived? 
 3anks and Bacon, the sculptors ; and West and Stothard, the painters :. 
 a the latter, Sir William Chambers, the architect ; and Fuseli and Opie, 
 he painters. Facing is the Middlesex Hospital, described at page 385. 
 
 The Pantheon, on the south side of Oxford-street, was originally 
 uilt by James Wyatt, in 1768-71 ; was burnt down in 1792, but was 
 ebuilt ; taken down in 1812, and again reconstructed. (See PANTHEON.) 
 
 Nearly opposite is the Princess' Theatre, No. 73, formerly the 
 Queen's Bazaar, opened in 1840. (See THEATRES.) 
 
 War dour- street, built 1686, and named from Lord Arundel of War- 
 our, is noted for its Curiosity-shops. (See page 246). 
 
 Hanway-street bears a stone dated 1721, and was originally a zigzag 
 me to Tottenham-Court-road: it was called Hanway-yard to our time, 
 nd is noted for its china-dealers and Curiosity-shops, as it was in the 
 ieign of hoops, high- heeled shoes y and stiff brocade. 
 | No. 54, corner of Berners-street, has a Renaissance or Elizabethan 
 :hop-front and mezzanine floor; a picturesque composition of pedestals, 
 onsoles, and semi-caryatid figures. No. 76 has a Byzantine fa$ade. 
 &o. 86 has a front of studied design. At No. 15 was exhibited, in 
 J830-2, a large painted window of the Tournament of the Field of 
 ;ioth-of-Gold, by Wilmshurst ; destroyed by fire in 1832. 
 
562 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 At the east end of Oxford-street, in 1838, were laid experimental 
 specimens of the various roadway Wood Pavements. 
 
 NEW OXFORD-STREET, extending the houses from 441 to 552, and 
 occupying part of the site of St. Giles's "Rookery," was opened in 
 1847: the house-fronts are of Ionic, Corinthian, domestic Tudor, and 
 Louis XIV. character, including a glass-roofed Arcade of shops. (Se 
 ST. GILES'S, page 330.) 
 
 PADDINGTON, 
 
 Named from the Saxon Padingas and tun, the town of the Paedinggj 
 (Kemble's Saxons in England), was, in the last century, a pleasant little 
 rural village, scarcely a mile north of Tyburn turnpike, upon the Har- 
 row-road. Paddington is not mentioned in Domesday Book; and the 
 charters professedly granting lands here by Edgar to the monks oi 
 Westminster are discredited as forgeries. The district would rathei 
 appear to have been cleared, soon after the Norman Conquest, from tht 
 vast forest of Middlesex, (with pasture for the cattle of the villagers 
 and the fruits of the wood for their hogs,) and to have lain betweei 
 the two Roman roads (now the Edgeware and Uxbridge roads) and 
 the West bourn, or brook, the ancient Tybourn. In the first authentic 
 document (31 Hen. II.), Richard and William of Paddington transfei 
 their "tenement" to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster ; and fron 
 the close of the thirteenth century, the whole of the temporalities o 
 Paddington (rent of land, and young of animals, valued at SI. 16*. d. 
 were devoted to charity. Tanner speaks of Paddington as a parish! 
 temp. Richard II.; and by the Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII., th<! 
 rectory yielded, like the manor, a separate revenue to the Abbey. Upoij 
 the dissolution of the Bishopric of Westminster, the manor and rectorV 
 were given by Edward VI. to Ridley, Bishop of London, and his sue 
 cessors for ever ; they were then let" at 41Z. Gs. 3d., besides 20*. for thr 
 farm of <; Paddington Wood," 30 acres. 
 
 The population of Paddington, by the Subsidy Roll of Henry VIII3 
 scarcely exceeded 100 ; in Charles Il"'s reign it was about 300 ; 50 yearsJ 
 ago, it contained 324 houses, and a population of 1881 souls ; from 183"! 
 to 1841, it increased 1000 per annum; from 1841 to 1851, above 200H 
 annually ; and it now has nearly 7000 houses, and "50,000 souls I 
 Thus, from the forest village has risen a large town, and one of thj 
 three parishes forming the Parliamentary borough of Marylebone. 
 
 " A city of palaces has sprung up within twenty years. A road of iron, wit! 
 steeds of steam, brings into the centre of this city, and takes from it in one year j 
 a greater number of living beings than could be found in all England a few yearj 
 ago ; while the whole of London can be traversed in half the time it took to reacij 
 Holborn Bars at the beginning of this century, when the road was in the hand | 
 of Mr. Miles, his pair horse coach, and his redoubtable Boy,"* long the onl;J 
 appointed agents of communication between Paddington and the City. The fare j 
 were 2s. and 3s, ; the journey took more than three hours ; and to beguile the tinr ] 
 at resting-places, " Miles's Boy" told tales and played upon the fiddle. 
 
 In the.jniddle of the last century, nearly the whole of Paddingtoi 
 had become grazing-land, upwards of 1100 acres; and the occupiers o 
 the Bishop's Estate kept here hundreds of cows. At the beginning o j 
 the last century, next to the rurality of Paddington, the gallows ant 1 
 the gibbet were its principal attractions. About 1790 were built nearl; 
 100 small wooden cottages, tenanted by a colony of 600 journeymei 
 artificers ; but these dwellings have given way to Connaught-terrace. | 
 
 * Paddington, Past and Present, by William Robins, 1853: an able contri 
 bution to our local histories. 
 
PADDINGTON. 563 
 
 Paddington consists chiefly of two hills, Maida-hill and Craven-hill; 
 the north-eastern slope of Notting-hill ; and a valley through which 
 runs the Tybourn, a favourite resort of anglers early in the present 
 century, but now a covered sewer. From this brook, the newly-built 
 district, mostly of palatial mansions, is named Tyburnia. 
 
 Paddington Green, now a russet spot, was the green of the villagers, 
 shown in all its rural beauty in prints of 1750 and 1783. Upon a portion 
 of it were built the Almshouses, in 1714; but their neat little flower- 
 gardens have disappeared. South of the green is the new Vestry -Hall. 
 
 At Dudley Grove was modelled and cast, by Matthew Cotes Wyatt, 
 ;he colossal bronze statue of the Duke of Wellington, now upon the 
 Green Park Arch : it is 30 feet high, and was conveyed from the foun- 
 dry, upon a car, Sept. 29, 1846, to Hyde Park Corner. 
 
 Westbourne Green has been cut up by the Great Western Railway ; 
 and Westbourne-place, built by Ware, with the materials of old Chester- 
 ield House, May Fair, has disappeared. Close by is the Terminus of 
 ;he Great Western Railway, with a magnificent Hotel, designed in the 
 Louis Quatorze taste, by P. Hardwick, R.A. : the allegorical sculpture 
 of the pediment is by Thomas : the rooms exceed 130. 
 
 At Craven Hill was the Pest-house Field, exchanged for the ground 
 n Carnaby- street, given by Lord Craven as a burial-place if London 
 should ever be again visited by the Plague : but the field is now the 
 ite of a handsome square of houses named Craven Gardens. 
 
 Bayswater, a hamlet of Paddington, is described at page 85. 
 
 Knotting, or Netting Hill, seems but to have been a corruption of 
 Nutting ; the wood on and around the hill of that name having for 
 centuries been appropriately so named. 
 
 Kensell, or Kensale., is " the Green-lane" and Kingsfelde Green in 
 a Harleian Ms. of Mary's reign. (See page 430.) 
 
 Maida Hill and Maida Vale were named from the famous battle of 
 Maida, fought in 1806. 
 
 The Grand Junction Waterworks were established in 1812 ; and on 
 3amden Hill is a storing reservoir containing 6,000,000 gallons. At 
 Paddington the basin of the Grand Junction Canal joins the Regent's 
 Danal, which passes under Maida Hill by a tunnel 370 yards long. On 
 ;he banks of the canal, the immense heaps of dust and ashes, once tower- 
 ng above the house-tops, are said to have been worth lOjOOO/. a heap. 
 
 " The Bishop's Estate" (Bishop's-road, Blomfield-terrace, &c.) pro- 
 luces 30,OOOZ. a-year to the Bishop of London and the lay lessees. 
 
 Among the parochial Charities, the aniversary festival of an Abbot 
 !>f Westminster is thought to explain "the Bread and Cheese Lands;" 
 jind until 1838, in accordance with a bequest, bread and cheese were 
 jhrown from the steeple of St. Mary's church, to be scrambled for in 
 jhe churchyard. (See LOCK HOSPITAL, p. 383; ST. MART'S, p. 385.) 
 j Oxford and Cambridge Squares and Terraces will long keep in 
 jnemory the munificence of the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond, 
 jo the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. 
 
 Paddington possessed a church before the district was assigned to 
 jhe monks of Westminster, in 1222. An "old and ruinous church' 
 
564 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 lish people in high art:" he lived many years at 1 Burwood-place, 
 Edgeware-road ; and here, June 22, 1846, with his own hand, he ter- 
 minated ihe fitful fever of his existence. St. Mary's Church is described 
 at page 146. Next was built Bayswater Chapel, by Mr. Orme, the print- 
 seller, in 1818; Connaught Chapel, in 1826, now St. John's: and at the 
 western extremity of the Grand-junction-road, St. James's, which in 
 1845 became the parish church. In 1844-6 was built Holy Trinity 
 Church, Bishop's-road (see page 130) : cost 18,4581., towards which the 
 Rev. Mr. Miles gave 4000Z. In 1847 was erected, in Cambridge-place, AU 
 Saints Church, upon a portion of the site of the old Grand Junction 
 "Water-works' reservoir, at the end of Star-street. St. John's, in 
 South wick-crescent, has a fine stained window. The erection of 
 Dissenters' places of worship was long restricted in Paddington by the 
 Bishops of London; but there are several chapels, including one for 
 the Canal boatmen, constructed out of a stable and coach-house. M 
 the western extremity of the parish is a large Roman-Catholic church. 
 
 Paddington has long been noted for its old public-houses. The " "Whitt 
 Lion," Edgeware-road, dates 1524, the year when hops were first imported. Ai 
 the "Red Lion," near the Harrow-road, tradition says, Shakspeare acted ; anc 
 another "Red Lion," formerly near the Harrow-road bridge over the bourn, if 
 described in an inquisition of Edward VI. In this road is also an anciew 
 " Pack-horse;" and the " Wheatsheaf," Edgeware-road, was a favourite resort o 
 Ben Jonson. (See Robins's Paddington, Past and Present.) 
 
 Paddington and Marylebone appear to have been favoured by religiom 
 enthusiasts. At No. 26 Manchester-street died, in 1814. the'notorion: 
 Joanna Southcott, after having imposed upon six medical men with th< 
 absurd story of her being about to give birth to the young " Shiloh. 1 
 Richard Brothers, the self-styled " Nephew of God," lodged at No. 51 
 Paddington-street, and died in Upper Baker-street, in 1824. Spence 
 the disciple of Emanuel Swedenborg, lived in Great Marylebone-street 
 he was known as "Dr. Spence," when he was the only surgeon L 
 the village of Marylebone. 
 
 PAINTED CHAMBER (THE), 
 
 Represented to have been the bed-chamber and death-place of Edwari 
 the Confessor, in the old Palace at Westminster, existed in its founds 
 tion-walls until the great fire in 1834. It was also called St. Edward' 
 Chamber ; and assumed its second name after it had been painted b. 
 order of Henry III. In the ceremonial of the marriage of Riohar' 
 Duke of York, in 1477, the Painted Chamber is called St. Edward' 
 Chamber ; and Sir Edward Coke, in his Fourth Institutes, states tha 
 the causes of Parliament were in ancient time shown in La Chambr 
 Depeint, or St. Edward's Chamber. Before the fire of 1834, this apart 
 ment had two floors, one tesselated, and the other boarded : it was 8 
 feet 6 in. in length, 26 feet wide, and its height from the upper floo 
 was 31 feet. The ceiling, temp. Henry 111., was dight with gilded an 
 painted tracery, including small wainscot paterae, variously ornamentet 
 It was hung with tapestries, chiefly representing the Siege of Tro\ 
 probably put up temp. Charles II. Sandford, in his Coronation o 
 James )/., mentions these tapestries as " Five pieces of the Siege c 
 Troy, and one piece of Gardens and Fountains." In 1800, these hang 
 ings and the wainscoting were removed,* when the walls and window 
 jambs were found covered with paintings of the battles of the Macca 
 bees; the Seven Brethren; St. John, habited as a pilgrim, presenting 
 ring to King Edward the Confessor ; the canonisation of King Edwarc 
 with seraphim, &c. ; and black-letter Scripture texts. The painting 
 are noticed in the MS. Itinerary of Simon Simeon, and Hugo the 111 
 
 * About the year 1820, the tapestry was sold to ilr. Charles Yamoid, of Gre; 
 Si. Helen's, for \0l. 
 
PALACE, BUCKINGHAM. 565 
 
 minator (Franciscan friars), in 1322; who name "that well-known 
 chamber, on whose walls all the histories of the wars of the whole 
 Bible are painted beyond description :" and an Exchequer Roll, 20 
 Edvv. I. anno 1292, headed, " p'ma op'ac'o picture," or first work of 
 Painting, contains an account of the disbursements of Master Walter, 
 the painter, for the emendation of the pictures in the King's Great 
 Chamber, as the Painted Chamber was then called.* Specimens of these 
 paintings are given by J. T. Smith in his Antiquities of Westminster; 
 and in the Vetusta Monumenta, vol. vi. ; and in 1835, drawings of the 
 pictures were exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 In the Painted Chamber, Parliaments were opened, before the 
 Lords sat in the Court of Requests. Here Conferences of both Houses 
 ,were held; here sat in private the High Court of Justice for bringing 
 Charles I. to trial ; and here the death-warrant of the unhappy King 
 was signed. After the great fire of 1834, the walls of the Chamber 
 were roofed, and the interior was fitted up as a temporary House of 
 Lords. The building was taken down in 1852, when the brick and stone 
 work of the north side, and the ends of the Chamber, including several 
 Gothic stone window-cases, were sold for 50Z. , 
 
 PAINTED GLASS. 
 
 The finest specimens are described under WINDOWS, PAINTED. 
 PALACES, ROYAL. 
 
 The three royal metropolitan palaces are, Buckingham Palace, the 
 residence of the Sovereign and the Court ; St. James's Palace, used 
 exclusively for State purposes ; and Kensington Palace, no longer the 
 abode of royalty. 
 
 Hatton (in 1708) says : " Of Courts of our Kings and Queens there were hereto- 
 fore many in London and Westminster : as the Tower of London, where some 
 believe Julius Caesar lodged, and William the Conqueror; in the Old Jewry, 
 where Henry VI.; Baynard's Castle, where Henry VII. ; Bridewell, where King 
 John and Henry VIII.; Tower Royal, where Richard II. and King Stephen; 
 Wardrobe, in Great Carter-lane, where Richard III. ; also at Somerset House, 
 kept by Queen Elizabeth ; and at Westminster, near the Hall, where Edward the 
 Confessor and several other kings kept their Courts. But of later times, the place 
 for the Courr, when in town, was mostly Whitehall; a very pleasant and commo- 
 dious situation, looking into St. James's Park, the canal, &c. west, and the noble 
 j river of Thames east; Privy Gardens, with fountains, statues, &c., and an open 
 prospect to the statue at Charing Cross, north. This palace being, in January 
 1697, demolished by h're, except the Banqueting House (built by Inigo Jones, 
 temp. James I ), there has since been no reception for the Court in town but St. 
 James's Palace, which is pleasantly situated by the Park; and Whitehall will 
 doubtless be rebuilt in a short time, being designed one of the most famous palaces 
 in Christendom." 
 
 " Her Majesty has also these noble palaces for the Court to reside in at plea- 
 sure : Kensington House (so near, that it may be said to be in town), Campden 
 House, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Winchester House ; all which palaces, for 
 pleasant situation, nobleness of building, delightful gardens and walks, extern- 
 lally; and for commodious, magnificent rooms, rich furniture, and curious 
 (painting, internally, cannot be matched in number and quality by any one 
 prince on earth." 
 
 BUCKINGHAM PALACE, the town residence of the Sovereign, on the 
 Iwest side of St. James's Park, was built by Nash and Blore, between 
 J1825 and 1837, upon the site of Buckingham House, of which the 
 
 ground-floor alone remains. The northern side of the site was a por- 
 Ition of the Mulberry-garden, planted by James I. in 1609, which in 
 Ithe next two reigns became a public garden. Evelyn describes it in 
 * There are also entries in the Close Rolls, 12 Hen. III. (1228), for painting 
 'the Great Exchequer Chamber; and 1236, for the King's Great Chamber; prov- 
 jing that oil-painting was practised in England nearly two centuries before its 
 
 presumed discovery by John ab Eyck, in 1410. 
 
'566 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1654 as ' y e only place of refreshment about y e towne for persons f 
 y e best quality to be exceedingly cheated at ;" and Pepys refers to it as 
 "a silly place," but with "a wilderness somewhat pretty." It is a! 
 favourite locality in the gay comedies of Charles II. 's reign. 
 
 Dryden frequented the Mulberry Gardens ; and according to a contemporary, 
 the poet ate tarts there with Mrs. Anne Reeve, his mistress. The company sat in 
 arbours, and were regaled with cheesecakes, syllabubs, and sweetened wine; I 
 wine-and-water at dinner, and a dish of tea afterwards. Sometimes the ladies 
 wore masks. " The country ladys, for the first month, take up their places in the 
 Mulberry Gardens as early as a citizen's wife at a new play." Sir C. Sedlert 
 Mulberry Garden, 1668. 
 
 " A princely palace on that space does rise, 
 Where Sedley's noble muse found mulberries." Dr. King. 
 
 Upon the above part of the garden site was built Goring House, let td 
 the Earl of Arlington in 1666, and thence named Arlington House : in; 
 this year the Earl brought from Holland, for 60*., the first pound of tea 
 received in England; so that, in all probability, the first cup qftea\ 
 made in England was drunk upon the site of Buckingham Palace, I 
 There is a rare print of Arlington House, by Sutton Nichols, and a copy! 
 by John Seago. In 1698 the property was sold to Sheffield, Duke of Buck- J 
 ingham, for whom the house was rebuilt in 1703, in the heavy Dutch style. I 
 of red brick, with stone finishings. Some vignettes of the mansion, then! 
 Buckingham House, are engraved at the heads of chapters, and in illumi- 
 nated capitals, of the second volume of the collected poems of Bucking- 
 ham, " the Muses' friend, himself a Muse." On the four sides he inscribed, 
 in gold, four pedantic mottoes : '' Sic siti laetantur Lares ;" " Rus in 
 urbe ;" " Spectator fastidiosus sibi molestus ;" and " Lente inccenit, cito 
 perfecit." The house was surmounted with lead figures of Mercury. 
 Secresy, Equity, Liberty, Truth, and Apollo ; and the Four Seasons. De- 
 foe describes it as " one of the great beauties of London, both by reason 
 of its situation and its building :" its fine garden, noble terrace (with 
 prospect of open country), a little park with a pretty canal; and the 
 basin of water, and Neptune and Tritons' fountain in the front court. Jj 
 The Duke of Buckingham, in a letter to the Duke of Shrewsbury. |< 
 minutely describes the mansion: its hall painted in the school of Ra-1 
 phael; its parlour by Ricci ; its staircase with the story of Dido ; its II 
 ceiling with gods and goddesses; and its grand saloon by Gentileschi. 
 The flat leaded roof was balustraded for a promenade ; and here was a I 
 cistern holding 50 tuns of water, driven up by an engine from the Thames, \ 
 To his third wife, a natural daughter of James II. by Catherine Sediey, the' 
 Duke was tenderly attached, and studied her convenience in planning Bucking-! 
 ham House: "the highest story of the private apartments," he tells us, "is\ 
 fitted for the women and children, with the floors so contrived as to prevent all j 
 noise over my wife's head during the mysteries of Lucina." 
 
 Buckingham House was purchased by George III. for 21,000/. in 
 1761, shortly after the birth of the Prince of Wales at St. James's 
 Palace : their Majesties soon removed here, and all their succeeding 
 children were born here. In 1775 the property was settled on Queen 
 Charlotte (in exchange for Somerset House), and thenceforth Buck- 
 ingham House was called "the Queen's House." Here the King col-' 
 lected his magnificent library, now in the British Museum (see p. 524). 
 Dr. Johnson, by permission of the librarian, frequently consulted books; 
 and here he held his memorable conversation with George III. 
 
 " It is curious that the royal collector (George III.) and his venerable librarian 
 (Mr. Barnard) should have survived almost sixtv years after commencing the 
 formation of this, the most complete private library in Europe, steadily appro- 
 priating 2000. per annum to this object, and adhering with scrupulous attention 
 to the instructions of Dr. Johnson, contained in the admirable letter printed by 
 order of the House of Commons." Quarterly Review, June 1826. 
 
 In 1766 the Cartoons of Raphael were removed here, to an octagonal 
 
PALACE, BUCKINGHAM. 567 
 
 apartment at the south-east angle ; but they were transferred to Wind- 
 sor Castle in 1788. The Saloon was superbly fitted as the Throne- 
 room, and here Queen Charlotte held her public drawing-rooms ; and 
 in the Crimson, Blue Velvet, and other rooms, was a tine collection 
 of pictures. Thus the mansion remained until 1825, externally " dull, 
 dowdy, and decent; nothing more than a large, substantial, and re- 
 spectable-looking red brick house." 
 
 The Palace, as reconstructed by Nash, consisted of three sides of a 
 square, Roman-Corinthian, raised upon a Doric basement, with pediments 
 at the ends ; the fourth side, enclosed by iron palisades, with a central 
 entrance arch of white marble, adapted from that of Constantine at 
 Home. Mr. Nash was succeeded by Mr. Blore, who raised the building 
 a story ; and the palace was opened for public inspection in 1831. William 
 IV. and Queen Adelaide did not remove here; but on July 13, 1837, 
 Queen Victoria took up her residence here. In 1846 the erection of 
 the east side was commenced ; and in 1851 the marble arch was removed 
 to the north-east corner of Hyde Park. There have since been added 
 a spacious Ball-room, &c. on the south side of the Palace. 
 
 The east front of Buckingham Palace is German, of the last century : 
 its extent is 3GO feet, height 77 feet ; extreme height of centre 90 feet ; 
 frontage 70 feet in advance of the former wings. The four central gate- 
 piers are capped by an heraldic lion and unicorn, and dolphins ; and 
 lithe state entrances have golden grilles of rich design. The wings are 
 ijsurmounted by statues of Morning, Noon (Apollo), and Night ; the 
 {Hours, and the Seasons ; and upon turrets flanking the central shield 
 ((bearing " V. R. 1847") are colossal figures of Britannia and St. George ; 
 besides groups of trophies, festoons of flowers, &c. The inner front 
 has a central double portico ; the tympanum is filled with sculpture, and 
 ( the pediment crowned with statues of Neptune, Commerce, and Naviga- 
 [ tion in the centre. Around the entire building is a scroll frieze of the 
 rose, shamrock, and thistle. The garden or western front, architec- 
 i jturally the principal one, has five Corinthian towers, and a balustraded 
 i jterrace ; the upper portion having statues, trophies, and bas-reliefs, by 
 i Flaxman and other sculptors. 
 
 The Marble Hall and Sculpture Gallery have mosaic bordered 
 
 ifloors, and ranges of Carrara columns with mosaic gold bases and 
 
 I Capitals. The sculpture consists chiefly of busts of the Royal Family 
 
 ; md eminent statesmen. Beyond the Sculpture Gallery is the Library. 
 
 The Grand Staircase is marble, with ormolu acanthus balustrades : 
 
 ;he ceiling has frescoes by Townsend, of Morning, Evening, Noon, and 
 
 Night, on a gold ground ; besides wreaths of flowers, imitative mar- 
 
 , bles, &c., in the Italian manner. The brief pageant of the Queen 
 
 jeaving the Palace to proceed in state to open Parliament may be wit- 
 
 iiessed by Tickets of admission to the Hall, issued by the Lord Great 
 
 Chamberlain. Upon such occasions, the Yeomen of the Guard, Yeomen 
 
 Irorters, and other official persons, in their rich costumes, while the 
 
 'Sovereign proceeds to the State-carriage, presents a magnificent scene. 
 
 The Vestibule is richly decorated in vermilion and gold : here are 
 
 . marble statue of the Queen, by Gibson, R.A.; and of Prince Albert, 
 
 >y Wyatt ; and bas-reliefs of Peace and War, by Thomas. The look- 
 
 ng-gkss and ormolu doors cost 300 guineas a-pair, and each mosaic 
 
 ;old capital and base 30 guineas. 
 
 The principal State Apartments are : the Green Drawing-room, in 
 he centre of the east front, and opening upon the upper portico : for 
 f tate balls, Tippoo Saib's Tent is added to this room, upon the portico, 
 I ;nd is lighted by a gorgeous " Indian sun," 8 feet in diameter. Next 
 I. 't the Throne Room, which is 64 feet in length: the walls are hung with 
 i rimson satin ; and the coved ceiling is emblazoned with arms, and 
 
568 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDOtf. 
 
 gilded in the boldest Italian style of the fifteenth century. Beneath is 
 a white marble frieze, sculptured by Baily, with the Wars of the Roses, 
 Stothard's last great design.* On" the north side of the apartment is 
 an alcove, with crimson velvet hangings, gilding, and emblazonry, and 
 a fascia of massive gilt wreaths and figures. In this recess is placed 
 the royal throne, or chair of state ; seated in which, surrounded by her 
 ministers, great officers of state, and the court, her Majesty receive* 
 addresses. In this room also are held Privy Councils. 
 
 The Picture Gallery, in the centre of the palace, is about 180 feetijj 
 length by 26 feet in breadth, and has a semi-Gothic roof, with a triple 
 row of ground-glass lights, bearing the stars of all the orders of 
 knighthood in Europe ; but Von Raumer considers the light false and 
 insufficient, and broken by the architectural decorations. Occasionally, 
 this sraltery is used as a ball-room, and for state banquets. 
 
 The door-cases have colossal caryatidal figures, and are gorgeoudl 
 gilt; and the marble chimney-pieces are sculptured with medallion 
 portraits of great painters. 
 
 The collection of pictures formed by George IV. is pre-eminently rich in 
 Putch and Flemish art. The chief exceptions are Reynokls's Death of Dido, 
 his Cymon and Iphigenia. and Sir Joshua's portrait in spectacles ; the Penny 
 Wedding, and Blind Man's Buff, by Wilkie; a Landscape by Gainsborough, and 
 a few recent English works; and 4 pictures by Watreau. In the collection 
 are an Altar piece by Albert Durer; 7 pictures by Rembrandt, including the 
 Shipbuilder and his Wife, for which George IV., when Prince of Whiles, gaw 
 5000 guineas; Rubens, 7; Marriage of St. Catherine, and 4 others, by Vandyke; 
 Vandervelde, 7 ; younger Vandervelde, 4 ; G.Dow, 8; Paul Potter. 4 ; A. Ostade, 
 9; younger Teniers, 14; Vandermeulen, 13; Wouvermans, 9 ; Cuyp, 9. 
 
 In the State Rooms are royal portraits, by Kneller, Lely, A. Ramsay, N, 
 Dance, Copley, Gainsborough, Wright, Lawrence, Wilkie, Winterhalter, &c. ' 
 
 In the western front is the Grand (central) Saloon, north of which 
 is the Yellow Drawing-room, communicating with the Private Apart- 
 ments of her Majesty, which extend along the north front of the 
 palace. The Grand Saloon has a semicircular bay, and scagliola lapis- 
 lazuli columns with mosaic gold capitals, supporting a rich architrave, 
 and bas-reliefs of children with emblems of music; the domed ceilings 
 are richly gilt with roses, shamrocks, and thistles, and acanthus-leaves, 
 and the royal arms in the spandrels. The State Sail room, north of 
 the Grand Saloon, has scagli< la porphyry Corinthian columns, with 
 gilded capitals, carrying an entablature "and coved ceiling, elaborately 
 gilt : here are "Winterhalter's portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert; 
 and Vandyke's Charles I. and Henrietta- Maria. South of the Ball-room 
 is the State Dining-room, which has an elegantly wrought ceiling, 
 and circular panels bearing the regal crown and the monogram V. R.; 
 the whole in stone-tint : here are Lawrence's whole-length of George 
 IV. in his coronation robes, and other royal portraits. 
 
 The merit of the architectural sculptures is their nationality. The 
 friezes and reliefs of scenes in British history are mostly by Baily, R. A.: 
 those of Alfred expelling the Danes, and delivering the "Laws', on the 
 garden-front, and the Progress of Navigation on the main front, are fine 
 compositions ; as are also Stothard's Wars of the Roses, in the Throne- 
 room ; and the eastern frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle. But 
 the marble chimney-pieces and door-cases, sculptured with caryatides, 
 fruit and flowers, and architectural ornament, often present a strange 
 mixture of fragments of Egypt, Greece, Etruria, Rome, and the Middle 
 Ages, in the same apartment. 
 
 * The venerable Stothard was between seventy and eighty years old when he 
 designed this frieze; yet it possesses all the vigour and imagination which had 
 distinguished his best days. The drawings were sold at Christie's, on the decease 
 of the painter; Mr. Samuel Rogers became the purchaser. 
 
PALACE OF ST. JAMES'S. 
 
 In the garden were formerly two Ionic Conservatories; the southern- 
 most of which is now the Palace Chapel, consecrated by the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, March 25, 1843. The aisles are formed by rows 
 of Composite cast-iron columns ; and at the west end, facing the altar, 
 is the Queen's closet, supported upon Ionic columns from the screen of 
 Carlton House. 
 
 The Pleasure-grounds comprise about 40 acres, including the lake of 
 5 acres ; at the verge of which, upon a lofty artificial mound, is a pic- 
 turesque pavilion, or garden-house, with a minaret roof. In the centre 
 is an octagonal room, with figures of Midnight and Dawn ; and 8 lu- 
 nettes, painted in fresco, from Milton's Comus, by Eastlake, Maclise, 
 Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, and Ross ; besides relief ara- 
 besques, medallions, figures and groups, from Milton's poems. On the 
 right is a room decorated in the Pompeian style, copied from existing 
 remains. The apartment on the left is embellished in the romantic style, 
 from the novels and poems of Sir Walter Scott. (See Gruner's Illus- 
 trations, described by Mrs. Jameson). 
 
 Buckingham Palace has been the scene of two superb Costume 
 Balls in 1842 and 1845: the first in the style of the reign of Ed- 
 ward III. ; and the fete in 1845 in the taste of George II. 's reign. 
 
 The Royal Mews is, described at page 505. 
 
 Immediately under the Palace passes " the King's Scholars' Pond Sewer," 
 the main drain of one of the principal divisions of the Westminster connexion of 
 sewers, occupying the whole channel of a rivulet formerly known as Tye Brook, 
 having its source at Hampstead, and draining an area of 2000 acres, 1500 of 
 which are covered with houses. A large portion of the sewer arches was recon- 
 structed, under, densely-populated neighbourhoods, without any suspicion on the 
 part of the inhabitants of what was going on a few feet below the foundations of 
 their houses. In its present complete state, this is, perhaps, the most remarkable 
 and extensive piece of sewerage ever executed in this or any other country. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PALACE, Westminster, on the north side of St. James's 
 Park, and at the western end of Pall Mall, occupies the site of a hospital, 
 founded by some pious citizens prior to the Norman Conquest, for four- 
 teen leprous females, to whom eight brethren were added to perform 
 divine service. The good work was dedicated to St. James, and was en- 
 dowed by the citizens with lands ; and in 1290, Edward I. granted to the 
 foundation the privilege of an annual Fair, to be held on the eve of St. 
 James and six following days. The house was rebuilt by Berkynge, 
 abbot of Westminster, in Henry III.'s reign ; and in 1450 its perpetual 
 custody was granted by Henry VI. to Eton College. In 1532, Henry 
 VIII. obtained the hospital in exchange for Chattisham and other lands 
 in Suffolk : he then dismissed the inmates, pensioned the sisterhood; and 
 having pulled down the ancient structure, he "purchased all the mea- 
 dows about St. James's, and there made a faire mansion and a parke for 
 his greater commoditie and pleasure " (Holinshed) : the Sutherland View 
 of 1543 shows the palace far away in the fields. "The Manor House," 
 as it was then called, is believed to have been planned by Holbein, and 
 built under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex. Henry's gate- 
 house and turrets face St. James's Street : the original hospital, to 
 judge from the many remains of stone mullions, labels, and other ma- 
 sonry, found in 1838, on taking down some parts of the Chapel Royal, 
 was of the Norman period. It was occasionally occupied by Henry as 
 a semi-rural residence, down to the period when Wolsev surrendered 
 Whitehall to the Crown. Edward and Elizabeth rarely 'resided at St. 
 James's : but Mary made it the place of her gloomy retirement during 
 the absence of her husband, Philip of Spain ; and here she expired. The 
 Manor House, with all its appurtenances, except the park and the 
 stables or the mews, were granted by James I. to his son Henry in 
 
570 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1610 ; at whose death, in 1612, they reverted to the Crown. Charles I. 
 enlarged the palace, and most of his children (including Charles II.) 
 were born in it : here he deposited the gallery of antique statues prin- 
 cipally collected for him by Sir Kenelm Digby. In this reign was 
 fitted up the chapel of the hospital, on the west side, as the Chapel 
 Royal, described at page 165. Here Charles I. attended divine service 
 on the morning of his execution : " from hence the king walked through 
 the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and partisans, to Whitehall." 
 (Whitelocke's Memorials, p. 374.) The Queen's Chapel, now the Ger- 
 man Chapel, was built for Catherine of Braganza, in the friary of the 
 conventual establishment founded here by her majesty, under the 
 direction of Cardinal Howard. 
 
 The Queen first heard mass there on Sunday, September 21, 1662, when Lady 
 Castlemaiue, though a Protestant, and the King's avowed mistress, attended her 
 as one of her maids of honour. Pepys describes " the fine altar ornaments, the 
 fryers in their habits, and the priests with their fine crosses, and many other fine 
 things." Diary, vol. i. p. 312. 
 
 At " St. James's House" Monk resided while planning the Restora- 
 tion. In the old bed-chamber, now the ante-chamber to the levee-room, 
 was born James (the old Pretender), the son of James II. by Mary of 
 Modena : the bed stood close to the back stairs, and favoured the scandal 
 of the child being conveyed in a warming-pan to the Queen's bed. In 
 this reign Verrio, the painter, was keeper of the palace-gardens. During 
 the Civil Wars, St. James's became the prison-house, for nearly three 
 years, of the Duke of York and Duke of Gloucester, and the Princess Eli- 
 zabeth: on April 20, 1648, the Duke of York escaped from the palace- 
 garden into the Park, through the Spring Garden, to a hackney-coach 
 in waiting for him ; and, in female disguise, he reached a Dutch vessel 
 below Gravesend. After the Restoration, the Duke occupied St. 
 James's ; and one of its rooms was hung with portraits of the Court 
 Beauties, by Sir Peter Lely. Here the Duke slept the night before his 
 coronation, and next morning proceeded to Whitehall. 
 
 On December 18, 1688, >Villiam Prince of Orange came to St. 
 James's, where, three days afterwards, the peers assembled, and the 
 household and other officers of the abdicated sovereign laid down their 
 badges. Evelyn sa^s: "All the world goes to see the Prince at St. 
 James's, where there is a greate court. There I saw him : he is very 
 stately, serious, and reserved." (Diary, vol. i. p. 680.) King William, 
 occasionally held councils here ; but it was not until after the burning 
 of Whitehall, in 1697, that this Palace became used for state cere- 
 monies, whence dates the Court of St. James's. William and Mary, 
 however, resided chiefly at Kensington ; and St. James's was next ntted 
 up for George Prince of Denmark, and the Princess Anne, who, on 
 her accession to the throne, considerably enlarged the edifice. George 
 I. lived here like a private gentleman :"in 1727 he gave a banquet here 
 to the entire Court of Common Council. The fourth plate of Hogarth's 
 "Rake's Progress" shows St. James's Palace gateway in 1735, with 
 the quaint carriages and chairs arriving on the birthday of Caroline, 
 George ll.'s consort : her Majesty died at St. James's in 1737. The 
 wing facing Cleveland-row was built for Frederick Prince of Wales, 
 on his marriage in 1736. The State Rooms were enlarged on the ac- 
 cession of George III., whose marriage was celebrated here Septem- 
 ber 6, 1761. George IV. was born here August 12, 1762; and shortly 
 afterwards the Queen's bed was removed to the Great Drawing-room, and 
 company were admitted to see the infant prince on drawing-room days. 
 The Court was held here during the reign of George III., though his 
 domestic residence was at Buckingham House. St. James's was re- 
 fitted on the marriage of the Prince of Wales, April 8, 17D5, in the 
 
PALACE OF ST. JAMES'S. 571 
 
 Chapel Royal. On January 21, 1809, the east wing of the palace, in- 
 cluding their majesties' private apartments and those of the Duke of 
 Cambridge, was destroyed by tire, and has not been rebuilt. In 1814 the 
 State Apartments were fitted up for the Emperor of Russia and the 
 King of Prussia, when also Marshal Blucher was an inmate of the 
 palace. In 1822 a magnificent banqueting-hall was added to the state- 
 rooms. .In January 1827 the remains of the Duke of York lay in state 
 in the palace. William IV. and Queen Adelaide resided here ; but since 
 the accession of her present Majesty, St. James's has only been used for 
 levees and drawing-rooms. 
 
 The lofty brick gatehouse bears upon its roof the bell of the Great 
 Clock, dated A.D. 1731, and inscribed with the name of Clay, clockmaker 
 to George II. It strikes the hours and quarters upon three bells, re- 
 quires to be wound every day, and originally had only one hand. A 
 print of the court-yard, with the meeting of Mary de Medicis and her 
 daughter Henrietta- Maria, in 1638, shows a dial which must have be- 
 longed to a previous clock. The present clock has been under the care 
 of the Vulliamys, the royal clockmakers, since 1743. 
 
 When the gatehouse was repaired in 1831, the clock was removed, and not 
 put uq again, on account of the roof being reported unsafe to cany the weight. 
 The inhabitants of the neighbourhood then memorialised William IV. for the 
 replacement of the timekeeper: the King, having ascertained its weight, shrewdly 
 inquired how, if the palace roof was not strong enough to carry the clock, it was 
 safe for the number of persons occasionally seen upon it to witness processions, 
 &c. The clock was forthwith replaced, and a minute-hand was added, with 
 new dials : the original dials were of wainscot, in a great number of very small 
 pieces, curiously dovetailed together. 
 
 The gatehouse enters the quadrangle, named the Colour Court, from 
 the colours of the military guard of honour being placed here : in this 
 Court one of the three regiments of Foot Guards is relieved alternately 
 every morning at eleven o'clock, when the keys of the garrison are de- 
 livered and the regimental standard exchanged, during the performance 
 of the bands of music. Westward is the Ambassadors' Court, where 
 are the apartments of certain branches of the Royal Family; and beyond 
 it the Stable- Yard, anciently the stable-yard of the palace, and where 
 was the Queen's Library, upon the site of Stafford House. (See p. 494.) 
 On the east side is the Lord Chamberlain's office, where permission 
 may be obtained to view the palace. Eastward of the gatehouse is the 
 Office of the Board of Green Cloth; and still further, the office of the 
 Lord Steward of Her Majesty's Household. Beyond are the gates 
 Jeading to the quadrangle known of old as " the Chair Court." The 
 State Apartments, in the south front of the palace, front the garden and 
 St. James's Park. The sovereign enters by the garden gate ; and it 
 was here, on the 2d of August 1796, that Margaret Nicholson attempted 
 to assassinate George III. as he was alighting from his carriage. The 
 State Apartments are reached by the Great Staircase, the Entree Gal- 
 lery, the Guard Chamber (its walls covered with weapons in fanciful 
 devices), and a similar apartment. Here are stationed the Yeomen of 
 the Queen's Guard; and the honours of the Guard Chamber are paid 
 to distinguished personages on levee and drawing-room days. 
 
 Yeomen of the Guard were first instituted in 1485. by Henry VII., upon the 
 model of a somewhat similar band retained by Louis XI. of France. They 
 were at first, archers; but on the death of William III. all took the partisan, 
 as now carried. The dress has continued unaltered since the reign of Charles II. 
 
 The Corps of Gentlemen- at- Arms (changed from Pensioners by William IV.) 
 was instituted by Henry VIII., disbanded during the Civil Wars, but re- 
 constructed at the Restoration, and at the Revolution of 1688. In 1745, when 
 George II. raised his standard on Finchley Common, these " Gentlemen" were 
 ordered to provide themselves with horses and equipment to attend his majesty 
 to the field. Their present uniform is scarlet and gold; and the corps carry on 
 
572 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 parade small battle-axes covered -with crimson velvet. On April 10, 1848, ort 
 the apprehension of a Chartist outbreak, St. James's Palace was garrisoned and 
 guarded by these ancient bodies. 
 
 Beyond the Guard Chambers is the Tapestry Room, hung with gorgeous 
 tapestry, made for Charles II., and representing the amours of Venus 
 and Mars. The stone Tudor arch of the fireplace is sculptured with 
 the letters H. A.. (Henry and Anne Boleyn), united by a true lovers' 
 knot, surmounted by a regal crown ; also" the lily of France, the port- 
 cullis of Westminster, and the rose of Lancaster/ Here the sovereigns 
 of the House of Brunswick, on the death of their predecessors, are re- 
 ceived by the Privy Council, and from the capacious bar- window pro- 
 claimed and presented to the people assembled in the outer court, where 
 are the sergeants-at-arms and band of household trumpeters. The pro- 
 clamation of her present Majesty, on June 21, 1837, was a touching spec- 
 tacle. Next the Tapestry Room is Queen Anne's Room, the first of the 
 four great state apartments. In this room the remains of Frederick 
 Duke of York lay in state in January 1827. This apartment opens to the 
 Ante- Drawing -Room, leading by three doors into the Presence Cham* 
 ber or Throne Room, beyond which is the Queens Closet. The throne, 
 at the upper end of the Presence Chamber, is large and stately, ar -1 em- 
 blazoned with arms : the window-draperies here and in the Queen's 
 Closet are of splendid tissue de- ver re. The entire suite is gorgeously 
 gilt, hung with crimson Spitalfields damasks, brocades, and velvets, 
 embroidered with gold ; and the Wilton carpets bear the royal arms. 
 
 The public are admitted to the corridor by tickets to see the com- 
 pany upon Drawing-room days; and upon certain occasions, when 
 bulletins of the health of the "sovereign are issued, they are shown to 
 the public as they pass through the state-rooms. 
 
 Pictures in the Slat'- Apartments. Large paintings of the Sieire of Tonrnay^ 
 and the Siege of Lisle, by the Duke of Marlborough. Portraits^ of Charles II., 
 George I., George II.. and Queen Anne ; George III., the Prince of V ales, and 
 the Duke of Yor 1 '., by Sir Joshua Reynolds; George IV. and the Duke of York, 
 by Sir Thomas Lawrence. Count La Lippe, and the Marquis of Granhy. by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds. Beauties of the Court of Charles II., copied from Hampton 
 Court. Lord Nelson, Earl St. Vincent, and Lord Rodney, hy Hoppner. The 
 Battles ofVittoria and Waterloo, by G. Jones, R.A. In the Entree Gallery 
 are whole-length portraits of Henry VIII.. reputed by Holbein; Queen Mary; 
 Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; James I., Charles I., after Vandyke; Charles II., 
 James II., and William and Mary, 
 
 The curious pictures which were here in Pennant's time have been removed : 
 including a Child, 3 years 6 months old, in the robes of a Knight of the Garter, 
 the second son of James I.; also Geoffrey Hudson, the Dwarf; and Mabuse's 
 Adam and Eve, painted with navels. 
 
 Here George IV. formed a fine collection of pictures, to which was added, in 
 1828, Haydon's " Mock Election," which the King purchased of the painter for 
 500 guineas, erroneously stated 800 guineas at page 267. 
 
 KENSINGTON PALACE, about two miles west of the metropolises 
 named from the adjoining town, although it is situated in the parish of 
 St. Margaret, Westminster: 
 
 " High o'er the neighbouring lands, 
 'Midst greens and sweets, a regal fabric stands." Tickefl. 
 
 The original mansion was purchased (with the grounds, six acres) by 
 King William III., in 1691, of Daniel Finch, second Earl of Notting- 
 ham. Evelyn notes: 
 
 " Feb. 25, 1690-1. I went to Kensington, which King William had bought of 
 Lord Nottingham, and altered, but was yet a patched-up building; but with the 
 gardens, however, it is a very neat villa." Memoirs, vol. ii. 
 In the following November the house was nearly destroyed by fire, and 
 the king narrowly escaped being burned in his bed. The premises had 
 
PALACE, KENSINGTON. 573 
 
 been possessed by the Finch family about half a century ; and after Sir 
 Heneage Finch's advancement to the peerage, the mansion was called 
 " Nottingham House." William III. employed Wren and Hawks- 
 moor, who built the King's Gallery and the south front ; the eastern 
 front was added by George I., from the, designs of Kent ; the north 
 wing is part of old Nottingham House. The entire palace is of 
 crimson brick, with stone finishings ; and consists of the Clock Court, 
 Prince's Court, and Princess' Court. King William held councils in 
 this palace; its decoration was the favourite amusement of Queeu 
 Mary ; and it was next fitted up as the residence of Queen Anne and 
 Prince George of Denmark : for her luxurious Majesty was built the 
 Banqueting-House, described at page 434. The principal additions 
 made by Kent, for George L, were the Cupola Room and the Great 
 Staircase; the latter painted with groups of portraits from the Court, 
 Yeomen of the Guard, pages, a Quaker, two Turks in the suite of 
 George L, and Peter the Wild Boy. George II. and Queen Caroline 
 passed most of their time here; and during the King's absence on the 
 Continent, the Queen held at Kensington a court every Sunday. In 
 this palace died Queen Mary and King William; Queen Anne and the 
 Prince Consort ; and George II. 
 
 The Great Staircase, of black and white marble, and graceful iron- 
 work (the walls painted by Kent with mythological subjects in chiar- 
 oscuro, and architectural and sculptural decoration), leads to the suite 
 of twelve State Apartments, some of which are hung with tapestry 
 and have painted ceilings. The Presence Chamber has a chimney-piece 
 richly sculptured by Gibbons with flowers, fruits, and heads ; the ceil- 
 ing is diapered red, blue, and gold upon a white field, copied by Kent 
 from Herculaneum; and the pier-glass is wreathed with flowers by 
 Jean Baptiste Monnoyer. The Kiny's Gallery, in the south front, has 
 an elaborately painted allegorical ceiling ; and a circular fresco of a 
 Madonna, after Raphael. The Cube Room is forty feet in height, and 
 contains gilded statues and busts ; and a marble bas-relief of a Roman 
 marriage, by Rysbrack. The Kiny's Great Drawing-room was hung 
 with the then new paper, in imitation of the old velvet flock. The 
 Queen's Gallery in the rear of the eastern front, continued north- 
 wards, has above the doorway the monogram of William and Mary ; 
 and the pediment is enriched with fruits and flowers in high relief and 
 wholly detached, probably carved by Gibbons. The Green Closet was 
 the private closet of William III., and contained his writing-table and 
 escritoire; and the Patchwork Closet had its walls and chairs covered 
 with tapestry worked by Queen Mary. 
 
 . During the reign of G eorge III. the palace was forsaken by the sove- 
 reign ; towards its close, a suite of rooms was fitted up for the Princess 
 of Wales, and her aged mother the Duchess of Brunswick. The lower 
 south-eastern apartments beneath the King's Gallery were occupied by 
 the late Duke of Kent: here, May 24, 1819, was born Queen Victoria; 
 christened here on June 24th following ; and on June 20, 1837, her 
 Majesty held here her first Council, which has been admirably painted 
 by Wilkie. The south wing of the older part of the palace was occupied 
 by the late Duke of Sussex, who died here April 21, 1843. 
 
 Here the Duke of Sussex, during 25 years, collected the celebrated Bibliotbeca 
 Sussexiana, numbering nearly 50,000 printed books and Mss., purchased volume 
 by volume, at the sacrifice of many an object of princely luxury and indulgence. 
 The collection included nearly 300 Theological Mss. of the tenth, twelfth, thir- 
 teenth, fourteenth, and fiiteenth centuries; besides about 500 early printed books 
 relating to the Holy Scriptures. Among the rarities were 48 Hebrew Mss., some 
 rolled ; a richly illuminated Hebrew and Chaldaic Pentateuch, thirteenth century ; 
 a Greek New Testament, thirteenth century, illuminated ; 16 copies of the Vul- 
 gate, on vellum, two with 100 miniatures in gold and colours; a splendidly 
 
574 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 illuminated Psalter, tenth century; missals, breviaries, hours, offices, &c. ; La 
 Bible Moralizee (fifteenth century); Historia del Vecchio Testamento, with 519 
 miniatures of the school of Giotto; several copies of the Koran, including that- 
 found by the conquerors of Seringapatam in the library of Tippoo Sultan, with 
 his spectacles between the leaves, as if the perusal of it had been one of the latest 
 acts ofTippo's life; Armenian cpy of the Gospels, thirteenth century ; Mss. in 
 the Pali, Burmann, Cingalese, &c. In the printed books were all the celebrated 
 Polyglots, in fine condition; 74 editions of the Hebrew Bible; 17 Hebrew-Sama-* 
 ritan and Hebrew Pentateuchs(Bomberg editions), and the Great Rabbinical Bible, 
 magnificent specimens of Hebrew printing ; Greek Bibles, of precious value; Latin 
 Bible, 200 editions; Bibles in other languages, 1200 editions. In the Divinity 
 classes were, the first Armenian, the first Irish, the first Sclavonic, the first Ger- 
 man, and the first Reformed, editions of Luther; the first English Bible, by 
 Coverdale ; the first Great Bible, or Cranmer's, &c. ; besides Classics, Lexi- 
 cography, Chronicles, Law, and Parliamentary Histories, of immense extent.. 
 The theological collection filled an apartment 100 feet in length; and here, seated 
 in a curtained chair, the Duke passed the life of a toil-worn student. In these 
 rooms he gave his conversazioni as President of the Royal Society. 
 
 In Kensington Palace was formerly deposited the greater part of 
 the royal collection of paintings, commenced by Henry VIII. ; and 
 removed here by William III., as appears from a Catalogue taken in 
 1700, and now in the British Museum. The collection was much aug- 
 mented by Queen Caroline ; but after the death of George II., several 
 of the finest pictures were removed to Windsor and elsewhere. In 
 1818, however, here were more than 600 pictures, which were cata- 
 logued by B. West, P.R.A. Few now remain; but in the southern 
 apartments (still retained, though not tenanted, by the Duchess of 
 Kent,) is a collection of Byzantine, early Italian, German, and Flemish 
 paintings, formerly the property of PrinceLouis D'Ottingen Wallerstein. 
 Admission by permission, of Prince Albert, to be applied for through . 
 the keeper of the collection, Mr. L. Gruner, 13 Fitzroy-square. The 
 majority of these 102 pictures are curious specimens of sacred art, 
 triptychs, altar-pieces, and other works of primitive design and elaborate 
 antiquity. 
 
 The Green, west ward of the Palace, and called in ancient records " the 
 Moor," was the military parade when the Court resided here, and the 
 royal standard was hoisted daily. Here are barracks for foot-soldiers, 
 who mount guard at the Palace. Northward of the Palace were the 
 kitchen-gardens, about 20 acres, now Queen's-road, with two lines of 
 elegant villas. (See KENSINGTON GA.RDENS,* pp. 433-4.34:.) 
 
 PALL MALL, 
 
 " A fine spacious street between the Haymarket N. E., and St. 
 .Tames's-street S. W." (ffattpn, 1708), and one- third of a mile in length, 
 is named from the French game of paille-maille having been played 
 there. The space between St. James's House and Charing Cross, about 
 1560, appears to have been fields, with three or four houses at the east 
 end of the present Pall Mall, and opposite a small church, the name of. 
 which Pennant could not discover. Down this road came Sir Thomas 
 Wvatt, " on foot, hard bv the Court-gate of St. James's, with four or 
 five auncients, his men marching in good way," and thus proceeded to, 
 Charing Cross and Whitehall. 
 
 At the east end of Pall Mall, in the reign of Henry VI., stood a group of monas- 
 tic buildings called " the Rookery," belonging to the monks of Westminster : here 
 resided Erasmus, by favour of Henry VIII. and the interest of Anne Boleyn, 
 When these buildings were demolished at the Reformation, tradition relates 
 
 * " The gravel of Kensington is of European repute. At the gardens of Ver- 
 sailles, and Caserta, near Naples, the walks have been supplied from the Ken- 
 sington gravel-pits." Quarterly Review, No. cxxxix. p. 237. 
 
PALL MALL. 575 
 
 there was found a secret smithy, which had been erected hy order of Henry 
 VI. for the practice of alchemy. The premises were subsequently used as an 
 inn, and upon the site was built the first Carlton House. (See page 64.) 
 
 In the reign of Charles II. Pall Mall was occasionally called Cathe- 
 rine-street. Faithorne's Plan, 1658, shows a row of trees on the 
 north side. Pepys mentions, in 1660, an old tavern, " Wood's at the 
 Pell Mell." In 1662 was fought here the duel between Mr. Jenny n 
 and Capt. Thomas Howard, the latter wearing mail under his dress. 
 The London Gazette of 1685 has an advertisement address, " the 
 Sugar-loaf in the Pall Mall." Dr. Sydenham died here, in 1689, at 
 his house next " the Golden Pestle and Mortar;" which sign remained 
 to our day, on the north side of the street. Another olden sign, " the 
 Golden Ball," has lasted to our time ; but " the Golden Door" and " the 
 Barber's Pole" have disappeared. Nell Gwyn's houses* here are men- 
 tioned at page 394; where also is described Schomberg House, on the 
 south side, built about 1650. 
 
 " Nelly at first had only a lease of the house, which as soon as she discovered, 
 she returned the conveyance to the king, with a remark characteristic of her wit, 
 and of the monarch to whom it was addressed. The king enjoyed the joke, and 
 perhaps admitted its truth; so the house in Pall Mall was conveyed/ree to Nell 
 and her representatives for ever. The truth of the story is confirmed by the fact, 
 that the house which occupies the site of the one in which she lived, now No. 79, 
 is the only freehold on the south or Park side of Pall Mall." Cunningham's 
 Nell Gwyn, p. 115. Mr. Cunningham adds : " No entry of the grant is to be found 
 in the Land Revenue Record Office." 
 
 Eastward of Nell Gwyn's lived Sir "William Temple, and the Hon. 
 Robert Boyle, and Bubb Doddington. In the Mall, in 1689, resided 
 " the Lady Griffin, who was seized for having treasonable letters put 
 into false bottoms of two large brandy-bottles, in the first year of his 
 majesty's reign." Defoe characterises Pall Mall, in 1703, as "the ordi- 
 nary residence of all strangers, because of its vicinity to the Queen's 
 palace, the park, the parliament-house, the theatres, and the chocolate 
 and coffee houses, where the best company frequent." Gay thus cele- 
 brates the modish street in his time : 
 
 " O bear me to the paths of fair Pall Mall ! 
 
 Safe are thy pavements, grateful is thy smell! 
 
 At distance rolls the gilded coach, 
 
 Nor sturdy carmen on thy walks encroach; 
 
 No lets would bar thy ways were chairs deny'd, 
 
 The soft supports of laziness and pride ; 
 
 Shops breathe perfumes, through sashes ribbons glow, 
 
 The mutual arms of ladies and the beau." Trivia, book ii. 
 
 Marlborough House, next St. James's Palace, was built in 1709-10. 
 
 (See page 490.) In front lived Sir Robert Walpole. Strype describes 
 
 Pall Mall as " a fine long street," with garden-houses on the south 
 
 side, many with raised mounts, and prospects of the King's garden and 
 
 I St. James's Park. 
 
 In gay bachelor's chambers in Pall Mall lived Beau Fielding, 
 I Steele's " Orlando the Fair:" here he was married to a supposed lady 
 ' of fortun,e, brought to him in a mourning- coach and widow's weeds, 
 which led to his trial for bigamy. Fielding's namesake places Night- 
 ingale and Tom Jones in Pall Mall, when they leave the lodgings of 
 Mrs. Miller in Bond-street. 
 
 La?titia Pilkington, for a short time, kept here a pamphlet and 
 print shop. At the sign of " Tully's Head," Robert Dodsley, formerly 
 
 * A relic of Nell Gwyn, her looking-glass, is preserved in the Visitors' 
 Dining-room of the Army and Navy Club.house, in Pall Mall. The glass 
 was bought with the house of Lord De Mauley, which was taken down for 
 the Club-bouse site. 
 
576 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a footman, with the profits of a volume of his poems and a comedy 
 (published through the kindness of Pope), opened a shop in 1735; 
 and here he published his Annual Register, Economy of Human Life, 
 and Sterne's Tristram Shandy. Dodsley retired in 1759 ; but his brother 
 James, his partner, continued the business until his death in 1797 : he 
 is buried in St. James's Church, Piccadilly. " Tully's Head" was the 
 resort of Pope, Chesterfield, Lyttleton, Shenstone, Johnson, and 
 Glover; Horace Walpole, the Wartons, and Edmund Burke. 
 
 At the corner of St. Alban's-street lived Gilray the caricaturist, 
 when assistant to Holland, the printseller. In a house opposite Market- 
 lane, the " Royal Academy of Art" met, from the time of their ob- 
 taining the patronage of George III. until their removal to Somerset 
 House, in 1771. 
 
 Among the coffee-houses of Pall Mall was the Smyrna, of the 
 days of the Tatler and Spectator; where subscriptions were taken 
 in by Thomson for publishing his Seasons, &c. 
 
 At the Star and Garter Tavern, at a meeting of the Nottingham- 
 shire Club, Jan. 26, 1765, arose the dispute between Lord Byron and ; 
 his relation and neighbour Mr. Chaworth, as to which had the most- 
 game on his estates: they fought with swords across the dining-table, 
 by the light of one tallow candle, when Mr. Chaworth was run . 
 through the body, and died next day. Lord Byron was tried be- 
 fore his peers in Westminster Hall, and found guilty of manslaughter ; 
 but claiming the benefit of the statute of Edward VI., he was dis- 
 charged on payment of his fees. In the same house (the Star and 
 Garter), Winsor made his gas-lighting experiments ; he lighted the 
 street wall in 1807. (See GAS-LIGHTING, p. 324.) 
 
 At the Queen's Arms Tavern, Lord Mohun supped with his se- 
 cond on the two nights preceding his fatal duel with the Duke of ! 
 Hamilton, in Hyde Park. At the King's Arms met the Liberty or 
 Rump-steak Club of Peers, in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. 
 
 Nearly opposite the south-west corner of the Opera-house, " Tho- 
 mas Thynne, Esq., on Sunday (Feb. 12, 1681), was most barbarously 
 shot with a musketoon in his coach, and died next day." The instigator 
 was Count Koningsmark, in hopes of gaining Lady Elizabeth Ogle, the 
 rich heiress, to whom Thynne was either married or contracted. Three 
 of Thynne's ruffians were tried at the Old Bailey, found guilty, and 
 hanged at the spot whereon the murder was committed. Borosky, 
 " who did the murther," was hung in chains beyond Mile End Town: 
 the Count was tried as an accessory, but was acquitted. The assassina- 
 tion is sculptured upon Thynne's monument in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Pall Mall had early its notable sights and amusements. In 1701 were 
 shown here Models of William the Third's Palaces at Loo and Hun- 
 staerdike, " brought over by outlandish men," with Curiosities dis- 
 posed of" on public raffling-days." In 1733, " a holland smock, a cap, 
 checked stockings, and laced shoes," were run for by four women in 
 the afternoon, in Pall Mall ; and one of its residents,' the High Con- 
 stable of Westminster, gave a prize laced hat to be run for by five men, 
 which created so much riot and mischief, that the magistrates " issued 
 precepts to prevent future runs to the very man most active in pro- 
 moting them." Here lodged George Psalmanazar, when he passed for 
 an islander of Formosa, and invented a language which baffled the 
 best philologists in Europe. Here lived Joseph Clark, the posture- 
 master, celebrated for personating deformities : now deceiving, by 
 feigned dislocated vertebra, the great surgeon, Moulins ; then per- 
 plexing a tailor's measure with counterfeit humps and high shoulders. 
 
 At the Chinese Gallery was exhibited, in 1825, " the Living Skeleton" 
 (Anatomie Vivante), Claude Ambroise Seurat, a native of Troyes, in 
 
PALL MALL. 577 
 
 Champaigne, 23 years old. His health was good, but his skin resembled 
 parchment, and his ribs could be counted and handled like pieces of 
 cane: he was shown nude, except about the loins; the arm, from the 
 shoulder to the elbow, was like an ivory German flute ; the legs were 
 straight, and the feet well formed. (See Hone's Every-day Book.) 
 
 In the old Star and Garter house, westward of Carlton House, was 
 exhibited, in 1815, the Waterloo Museum of portraits and battle-scenes, 
 cuirasses, helmets, sabres, and fire-arms, state-swords, truncheons, rich 
 costumes, and trophies of Waterloo ; besides a large picture of the 
 battle, painted by a Flemish artist. At No. 59 Salter spent five years 
 in painting his great picture of the Waterloo Banquet at Apsley House, 
 engraved for Alderman Moon. At No. 121 Campanari exhibited his 
 Etruscan and Greek Antiquities, in rooms fitted up as the Chambers of 
 Tombs. In apartments at No. 120 Captain Marryat wrote his Poor 
 Jack. At Nos. 67 and 68 lived B. L. Vulliamy, the scientific horologist, 
 whose family have been clockmakers to the Sovereign in five reigns. 
 
 The Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, at No. 79, has 
 aeen founded 150 years ; and its operations have been extended from North Ame- 
 rica to the West Indies, South Africa, India, Ceylon, Borneo, Australia, and 
 New Zealand. When the Society was first established, there were not 12 clergy- 
 men of the Church of England in these lands; there are now nearly 3000. The 
 Society's expenditure in 1850 was 84,000/. 
 
 At No. 90 died, in 1849, Mr. W. J. Denison, in his 80th year, be- 
 queathing 2g millions sterling : he sat in Parliament 31 years for 
 Surrey. No. 91, Buckingham House, was built by Soane for the Mar- 
 quis of Buckingham, 1790-4. At No. 100 lived Mr. Angerstein, whose 
 pictures were bought for the nation, and were shown here before 
 their removal to the National Gallery ; and at No. 50 died Mr. Robert 
 Vernon, who bequeathed to the country his pictures of the English 
 School, which were for a short time exhibited here. 
 
 No. 50 was built by Alderman Boydell as the Shakspeare Gallery, 
 for his pictures illustrative of Shakspeare, painted by West, Reynolds, 
 INorthcote, and others, and which were dispersed" by lottery after 
 ibeing engraved. In 1806 the gallery was purchased by a committee 
 i|of noblemen and gentlemen, by whom was established here the British 
 \Institution: here are exhibited the works of Living Artists in the 
 'spring, and Old Masters in the autumn. Here was exhibited West's 
 r large picture (9 ft. by 14 ft.) of Christ healing the Sick in the Temple ; 
 j; bought by the British Institution for 3000 guineas, and presented to 
 I the National Gallery. Upon the house-front is a large bas-relief of 
 jShakspeare attended by Poetry and Painting, for which Alderman 
 I Boydell paid Banks, the sculptor, 500 guineas ; and in the hall is 
 Banks 's colossal Mourning Achilles, a noble work of pathos and heroic 
 | Beauty. No. 53 is the Exhibition-room of the New Society of Pain- 
 mers in Water-colours. 
 
 No. 86, the Ordnance Office (Correspondence), was originally built 
 I 'or Edward Duke of York, brother of George III., and was subse- 
 
 imiently a Subscription Club-house, called the Albion Hotel; this being 
 me first modern club-mansion in Pall Mall, which, however, had its 
 Jr houses for clubbing" in Pepys's time. After the removal of Carlton 
 I House, in 1827, the erection of the present splendid club-houses in 
 rail Mall was commenced with the Senior United Service and the 
 ikthenseum ; the precise site of Carlton House being the roadway be- 
 I ween these two club-houses, which, with others in Pall Mall, are de- 
 I cribed at pp. 190, 192, 195, 196, 198. Of Carlton House, the Riding- 
 I puse, a substantial stone building,.remains ; and here (Carlton Ride) 
 I U deposited a portion of the Public Records. Thence a flight of steps 
 I bads to Warwick-street : here stood Warwick House, whence the 
 
 p P 
 
578 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Princess Charlotte, in 1814, escaped in a hackney-coach to the house; 
 of her mother, as vividly described by Lord Brougham in the Edin- 
 burgh Review. In Warwick-street is a public-house with the old sign 
 of " The Two Chairmen," recalling the sedans of Pall Mall: 
 
 " Who the footman's arrogance can quell, 
 Whose flambeau gilds the sashes of Pall Mall, 
 When in long rank a train of torches flame, 
 To light the midnight visits of the dame." Gay's Trivia, book iii [ 
 
 Here, in 1731, were found, in digging the great sewer of Pall Mall ( 
 the fossil teeth of an elephant, 28 feet underground : they are pre- 
 served in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries, Somerset House, j 
 
 Gray, the poet, relates : "In the year 1688, my Lord Peterborough had a grea ! 
 mind to be well with Lady Sandwich, Mrs. Bonfoy's old friend. There was ' 
 woman who kept a great coffee-house in Pall Mall, and she had a miraculou 
 canary-bird that piped twenty tunes. Lady Sandwich was fond of such things | 
 had heard of and seen the bird. Lord Peterborough came to the woman, am 
 offered her a large sum of money for it ; but she was rich, and proud of it, ami 
 would not part with it for love or money. However, he watched the bird nai 
 rowly, observed all its marks and features, went and bought just such anothei 
 sauntered into the coffee-room, took his opportunity when no one was by, slippe*] 
 the wrong bird into the cage and the right into his pocket, and went offundis 
 covered to make my Lady Sandwich happy. This was just about the time of th j 
 Revolution ; and, a good while after, going into the same coffee-house again, h j 
 saw his bird there, and said, 'Well, I reckon you would give your ears now thai 
 you had taken my money.' 'Money!' says the woman, 'no, nor ten timej 
 that money now, dear little cieature! for, if your lordship will believe me (as I 
 am a Christian, it is true), it has moped and moped, and never once opened it] 
 pretty lips since the day that the poor king went away !' " Correspondence ofGrai 
 and Mason, edited by Mitford, 1853. 
 
 Dr. Graham's " Goddess of Health" (see Schomberg House, p. 395 
 was a lady named Prescott. Mr. Cosway, R.A., the next tenant oj 
 Schomberg House, was the fashionable miniature-painter of his day I 
 and here his accomplished wife, Maria Cosway (also a painter), gav j 
 her musical parties, the Prince of Wales being a frequent visitor I 
 Mrs. Cosway made a pilgrimage to Loretto, which she had vowed tj 
 do if blessed with a living child. Notes and Queries, No. 147. 
 
 In Pall Mall was Almack's Gaming Club, where the play was onl j 
 for rouleaus of 50?. each, and generally there was 10,0007. in specie oil 
 the table. The gamesters "began by pulling off their embroidere! 
 clothes, and put on frieze greatcoats, or turned their coats inside out! 
 wards for luck. They put on pieces of leather (such as are worn bi 
 footmen when they clean the knives) to save their laced ruffles ; and ta 
 guard their eyes from the light and to prevent tumbling their hair, won 
 high-crowned straw hats with broad brims, and adorned with flower 
 and ribbons ; masks to conceal their emotions when they played at quinzt j 
 Each gamester had a small neat stand by him, to hold his tea; or j 
 wooden bowl with an edge of ormolu, to hold the rouleaus." (Memoir j 
 and Correspondence of Charles James Fox, edited by Lord John Russel j 
 1853.) Of this club, 'Fox and Gibbon the historian were members; th| 
 latter dates several letters from here. 
 
 At Marlborough House, in February 1850, were sold the furnitunj 
 and personal effects of the late Queen Dowager; the public being ad 
 mitted by tickets, and the price affixed to each article. 
 
 PALL MALL EAST, on the north side of Cockspur-street, contain j 
 the University Club-house, described at page 199; and the Colleg 
 of Physicians, described at page 206. Here also is M. C. Wyatt' 
 equestrian statue of George III. (see STATUES.) At No. 4 (Harding, 
 Lepard, and Co.) were exhibited, in 1831, the exquisite water-colon. , 
 copies made by Hilton and Derby for Lodge's Portraits of Illus- 
 
PANCRAS, ST. 579 
 
 trious Personages, from pictures by Titian, Holbein, Vandyke, Mark 
 Gerard, Zucchero, Jansen, Retel, Walker, Van Somer, Honthorst, 
 Lely, Ant. More, Mytens, Kneller, Reynolds, Dahl, Jarvis, Riley, 
 Rubens, Fleck, Juan de Pantoxa, Mirevelt, and P. Oliver. No. 5 
 is the Gallery of the Society of Painters in Water-colours. At No. 1 
 Dorset-place lived John Thelwall, the classic elocutionist and dra- 
 matic lecturer, who late in life left political agitation for the calm 
 pursuits of literature. He was worthily characterised by Coleridge 
 as " intrepid, eloquent, and honest ; perhaps the only acting democrat 
 that is honest." Between Whitcombe-street and Charing Cross was 
 formerly Hedge-lane, 300 yards in length ; in the days of Charles I. 
 a lane through the fields, and bordered with hedges. 
 
 At a low tavern in Suffolk-street, on Jan. 30, 1735, "several young gentlemen 
 of distinction" happening to meet in a drunken frolic, had a bonfire lit in the 
 street before the tavern-door, and drank loyal and popular healths to the mob out 
 of the windows, which led to a riot; and the incident became engrafted upon the 
 history of " the Calves' Head Club." 
 
 PANCRAS, ST., 
 
 Originally a solitary village " in the fields," north of London, and one 
 mile from Holborn Bars, is the most extensive parish in Middlesex, 
 being 18 miles in circumference. It is a prebendal manor, and was 
 included in the land granted by Ethelbert to St. Paul's Cathedral about 
 503 ; it was a parish before the Conquest, and is called St. Pancras in 
 Domesday. The history of its church, which Norden thought " not to 
 yield in antiquitie to Paules in London,", is narrated at page 152. The 
 prebendary of St. Pancras was anciently confessor to the Bishop of 
 London : in the list are Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of "Winchester ; 
 Dr. Sherlock, and Archdeacon Paley. Lysons supposes it to have in- 
 cluded the prebendal manor of Kentish Town, or Cantelows,* which 
 now constitutes a stall in St. Paul's Cathedral. The church has about 
 70 acres of land attached to it, which were demised in 1641 at 10J. 
 reserved rent ; and being subsequently leased to Mr. "William Agar, 
 are now the site of Agar Town. In Domesday, Walter, a canon of St. 
 Paul's, holds one hide at Pancras, which is supposed to form the free- 
 bold estate of Lord Somers, on which Somers Town is built. 
 
 St. Pancras' parish contained, in 1251, only 40 houses ; in 1503 the 
 it ,;church stood "all alone," and in 1745 only 3 houses had been built near 
 Jit. In 1765 the population was not 600 ; in 1801, 36,000 ; 
 
 L Houses. Inhabitants. 
 1821 9,405 71,838 
 1841 15,658 129,969 
 1851 19,825 167,198 
 ng the most populous parish in the metropolis. It includes one- 
 jthird of the hamlet of Highgate, with the hamlets of Kentish-town, 
 i .Battle-bridge, Camden Town, Somers Town, to the foot of Gray's-lnn- 
 ..j ane; also "part of a house in Queen-square" (Lysons), all Tottenham- 
 1 Court-road, and the streets west to Cleveland-streetandRathbone-place. 
 Stukeley affirmed the site of the old church to have been occupied by 
 |L Roman encampment (Caesar's), of which he has published a plan 
 \\Itinerarium Curiosum, 1758); and the neighbouring Brill of Somers 
 town Stukeley traces to a contraction of Bury or Burgh Hill, a Saxon 
 I lame for a fortified place on an elevated site; following Camden in his 
 I illustration of the village of Brill in Buckinghamshire. 
 
 At Battle-bridge, in 1842, was discovered a Roman inscription at- 
 
 * Anciently Kentesstoune, where William Bruges, Garter King-at-arms in 
 I jie reign of Henry V., had a country-house, at which he entertained the Emperor 
 igismund. 
 
580 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 testing the great battle between the Britons under Boadicea, and the Ro- 
 mans under Suetonius Paulinus, to have been fought on this spot. 
 
 The inscription bears distinctly the letters LEG. xx. (the twentieth legion), 
 one of the four which came into Britain in the reign of Claudius ; and the vexil-. 
 lation of which was in the army of Suetonius Paulinus, when he made that vic- ! 
 torious stand in a fortified pass, with a forest in his rear, against the insurgent 
 Britons. The position is described by Tacitus. On the high ground above Battle- 
 bridge are vestiges of Roman works ; and the tract of land to the iiorth was for- 
 merly a forest. The veracity of the following passage of the historian is there -i 
 fore fully confirmed : " Deligitque locum artis faucibus, et a tergo silva clausum i 
 satis cognito, nihil hostium nisi in fronte, et apertam planitiem esse, sine mett 
 insidiarum." He further tells us, that the force of Suetonius was composed o 
 " quartadecima legio, cum vexilariis rice&imariis, et e proximis auxiliares'.' 
 (Tacit. Anna!, lib. xiv.) So that, almost to the letter, the place of this memorablil 
 engagement seems, by the discovery of the above inscription, to be ascertained. 
 
 In Ben Jonson's play, the Tale of a Tub, the characters move abou 
 in the fields near Pancridge (St. Pancras) ; Totten-court is a mansioi j 
 in the fields; a robbery is pretended to be committed "in the ways, 
 over the country" between Kentish Town and Hampstead Heath ; aucn 
 a warrant is granted by a "Marribone" justice. 
 
 St. Pancras had formerly its mineral springs, which were much re- 
 sorted to. Near the old churchyard, in the yard of a house, is th< 
 once-celebrated St. Pancras' Well, slightly cathartic. St. Chad's Well 
 in Gray's-Inn-road, has a similar property ; and the Hampstead waten 
 and walks were given in 1698 to " trustees, for the benefit of the poor." 
 
 The parish contains 24 churches, the three principal of which an 
 described at pages 152, 153. The vicarage was valued at 28Z. in 1650 
 it is rated in the King's books at 91. ; and at this time is stated at 17002 
 Under the belfry of the old church was interred privately, in a grav 
 14 feet deep, the body of Earl Ferrers, executed at Tyburn in 1760. 
 
 The foundation of the excellent Female Charity School, next to St 
 James's Chapel, in the Hampstead-road, dates from 1776. 
 
 In St. Pancras are the Termini of the two largest Railways in Eng 
 land : the North-Western, Euston- square; and the Great Northern, a. 
 Battle-bridge, 45 acres. (See RAILWAYS.) In a house in Montgo; 
 mery's nursery-gardens, the site of the north side of Euston-square 
 lived Dr. Wolcot (Peter Pindar), the satirist. 
 
 The Cemetery for St. Pancras, 87 acres (being the first extra-munu 
 burial-ground for the metropolis, by Act 15 and ]6 Victoria, cap. 85) j 
 was commenced in 1853, on " Horse-shoe Farm," in the Finchley-road 
 about 4 miles from St. Pancras Workhouse, and 2 miles from the ex- : 
 treme northern boundary of the parish : the first stone of the churclj 
 was laid Nov. 24, 1853. St. Pancras Workhouse often contains upward* | 
 of 1200 persons, equal to the population of a large village. 
 
 PANORAMAS. 
 
 The panorama (from the Greek pan, aU, and orama, a view), a circuit 
 painting having no apparent beginning nor end, was first devised bi 
 Robert Barker, an artist, who, whilst seated on the Calton-hill, Edin- ! 
 burgh, put up an umbrella to protect himself from the sun, when h(< 
 noticed the greater effect it gave to the whole circle of the horizon 
 This he sought to turn to account in a pictorial contrivance, where tht 
 spectators should be placed in the middle of the picture-circle, coverec 
 overhead to eive additional effect to the painting itself, which is a devia- 
 tion from the ordinary flat surface to that of a curve, so as to allow ol 
 representing the whole view surrounding any spot, with entirely new 
 rules of perspective for the purpose. Sir Joshua Reynolds foretold thf 
 failure of the novelty, and was equally surprised and delighted on wit- 
 nessing its success in a small circle painted by Mr. Barker, at 28 Castle 
 
PANORAMAS. 
 
 581 
 
 street, Leicester-square. Larger premises were then erected at the 
 north-east corner of Leicester-square, by the subscription of a party 
 of noblemen and gentlemen ; and here the first Panorama was produced 
 by Mr. Barker in 1794, the success of which soon enabled the painter 
 to repay his patrons their capital with interest. The first picture 
 was a view of London, taken by Thomas Girtin, from the Albion 
 Mills, at the south end of Blackfriars Bridge. Next was painted the 
 Fleet under Lord Howe at anchor at Spithead; followed by Elba, 
 Athens, and the Bay of Naples: the two latter were highly commended 
 by Stothard. Among the early pictures were the battles of the Nile, 
 Trafalgar, Badajoz, Vittoria, and Waterloo. Robert Barker was suc- 
 ceeded by his son, Henry Aston Barker ; on whose retirement, John 
 Burford, his pupil, became painter and proprietor; and was succeeded 
 in 1823 by his son, Robert Burford, the present proprietor. The 
 paintings are exhibited in one large and two smaller circles at Leicester- 
 square : the large circle is 90 ft. in diameter, and 40 ft. in height. 
 
 The Panoramas are painted in oil by Mr. Burford, mostly from his 
 own sketches ; but the latter have been, in some instances, taken by 
 artistic travellers. The extreme accuracy of the views, as well as their 
 pictorial character, have gained for the exhibition reputation as ubi- 
 quitous as its subjects. The most attractive pictures have been, the 
 Battle of Waterloo, and Jerusalem, both painted twice. The follow- 
 ing pictures have been exhibited since 1823 : 
 
 1823. Coronation of George IV. Lau- 
 
 sanne. Pompeii. 
 
 1824. Pompeii (second view). 
 
 1825. Edinburgh. Mexico. 
 
 1826. Madrid. 
 
 1827. Rio de Janeiro. Geneva. 
 
 1828. Navarino. Genoa. 
 
 1829. Sydney. Pandemonium. Con- 
 
 stantinople. 
 
 1830. Calcutta. Amsterdam. Quebec. 
 
 1831. Hobart Town. Bombay. Flo- 
 
 1832. Milan. 'Stirling, N.B. 
 
 1833. Siege of Antwerp. Falls of Ni- 
 
 agara. 
 
 1834. Boothia (North Pole). New 
 
 York. Pere-la-Chaise. 
 
 1835. Jerusalem. Thebes. 
 
 1836. Lima. Lago Maggiore. 
 
 1837. Mont Blanc. Dublin. 
 8. New Zealand. Canton. 
 
 1839. Rome. The Coliseum. Malta. 
 
 1840. Versailles. Benares. Macao. 
 
 1841. Damascus. St. Jean d'Acre. 
 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 1842. Battle of Waterloo. Cabool. 
 
 1843. Edinburgh. Baden-Baden. Cob- 
 
 lentz. Treport. 
 
 1844. Hong-Kong. Baalbec. Naples. 
 
 1845. Nankin. Athens. Rouen. 
 
 1846. Constantinople. Sobraon. 
 
 1847. Cairo. Himalaya. 
 
 1848. Vienna. Paris. 
 
 1849. Pompeii. Switzerland, from the 
 
 Righi. Cashmere. 
 
 1850. Arctic Regions. Lakes of Kil- 
 
 larney. Lake of Lucerne. 
 
 1851. Niagara. Jerusalem. Lucerne. 
 
 1852. Salzburg. Battle of Waterloo. 
 
 1853. Granada and the Alhambra. 
 
 Mexico. The Bernese Alps. 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Other Panoramas were painted by Mr. Thomas Barker and Mr. 
 Reinagle, and were exhibited on the premises now the Strand Theatre : 
 the last picture, a view of Constantinople, was shown in 1831. 
 
 One of the earliest Panoramic paintings was that of the Storming and Capture 
 of Seringapatam, painted by Sir Robert Ker Porter, when only 19, in the short 
 space of six weeks ; its length being upwards of 200 feet. West called it " a 
 wonder of the world." Porter also painted the Battle of Agincourt, which he 
 [presented to the City of London ; and several years afterwards it was found in 
 (one of the vaulted chambers under Guildhall, and announced to be of unknown 
 (antiquity, " before the Great Fire of London," and worth 15,OOOJ. ! 
 
 Another celebrated exhibition of this class was the Eidophusihon, 
 at a theatre in Panton-street, Haymarket. The pictures were painted 
 by De Loutherbourg, and were patronised by Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 and Gainsborough. The views were London, from One-Tree Hill, 
 Greenwich Park; a Storm at Sea, with the Loss of the Halsewell India- 
 nan ; an Italian Sea-port ; Satan and Pandemonium, &c. ; exhibited with 
 
582 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 startling atmospheric effects, conflagrations, &c. To the exhibition 
 were added a Learned Dog, Musical Glasses, and a Monologue by John 
 Britton (see his Autobiography, p. 97) : the theatre and its scenery were 
 destroyed by fire in 1800. 
 
 In 1849 was exhibited at Saville House, Leicester-square, a Pano- 
 rama of the Mississippi, advertised to be 4 miles in length ! Now only 
 ten widths of the picture (each 20 feet) were passed before the spectator 
 in 15 minutes, and the exhibition lasted one hour and a half; 20 by 10 
 by 6 gives 1200 feet as the real length, or less than a quarter of a mile. 
 Had the picture been of the pretended length (4 miles), the canvas must, 
 during exhibition, have travelled across the stage nearly at the rate of 
 3 miles an hour, which would hardly allow the painting to be seen at all! 
 
 Several Panoramic and Dioramic pictures have been exhibited at 
 the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. (See pp. 266-268.) Banvard's picture 
 was taken to "Windsor Castle", and exhibited to the Queen in St. George's 
 Hall. The most popular exhibition of this class, and most deservedly 
 so, is " The Ascent of Mont Blanc," painted by Beverley, to illustrate 
 Mr. Albert Smith's lecture. In two seasons, this entertainment was 
 represented at the Egyptian Hall 528 times, and once privately to Prince 
 Albert ; when the number of persons who paid for admission was 
 192,929 ; admission-money upwards of 17,000?., of which only a crown- 
 piece was counterfeit ; largest audience, 471. Upon the same floor 
 were first exhibited, Jan. 23, 1854, Dioramic Views of Constantinople, 
 sketched by T. Allom, and painted by Desvignes, Gordon, and Beverley : 
 the accompanying lecture written by Albert Smith and Shirley Brooks; 
 and delivered by Charles Kenney, son of the clever dramatist. (See 
 DIOBAMAS, p. 252 ; and EGYPTIAN HALL, p. 268.) 
 
 PANTHEON, OXFORD-STREET, 
 
 About one-third of a mile on the left from St. Giles's, was originally 
 built by James Wyatt for musical promenades, and was opened Jan. 
 27, 1772, when 2000 persons of rank and fashion were present. It 
 contained 14 rooms, exclusive of the rotunda : the latter had double 
 colonnades, ornamented with Grecian reliefs ; and in niches at the base * 
 of the dome were statues of the heathen deities, Britannia, and George 
 III. and Queen Charlotte. Walpole described it as " the new winter 
 Ranelagh," with pillars of artificial giallo antico, and with ceilings and 
 
 masquerade here, to celebrate the Prince of Wales's attaining his ma- 
 jority; tickets three guineas each. Next year Garrick was present at 
 a masquerade here as King of the Gipsies. Gibbon was also a frequenter 
 of its gay bachelors' masque fetes. In 1784, also, the " Commemoration 
 of Handel" was performed here, when the King, Queen, and Royal 
 Family were present. The Pantheon was next converted into a theatre 
 for the Italian Opera company in 1791, the orchestra including Giar- 
 dini, La Motte, Cramer, Fischer, Crosdil, and Cervetto. 
 
 The Pantheon was burnt down Jan. 14, 1792 : Turner painted the 
 conflagration, which he exhibited at the Royal Academy two years 
 after he became an exhibitor. The loss by the fire was stated at 80,000*. 
 The Pantheon was rebuilt in 1795, Wyatt's entrance-front in Oxford- 
 street and in Poland-street being retained. It was then let as a theatre, 
 and for exhibitions, lectures, and music. The theatre was reconstructed 
 in 1812, when Miss Stephens (subsequently Countess of Essex) first 
 appeared in London here as a concert-singer; and first appeared on the 
 stage, at Covent Garden Theatre, in 1813. In 1814 a patent was sought 
 
PARKS I GREEN PARK. 583 
 
 from Parliament to open the Pantheon with the regular drama; but the 
 application failed. In 1832 the property was sold for 16,OOOZ. : the pre- 
 mises are freehold, except the Oxford-street front, which is leasehold. 
 In 1835 the premises were remodelled by Sydney Smirke, A.K.A., and 
 opened as a Bazaar. (See page 36.) 
 
 PARKS. 
 
 The Parks have been well denominated by an amiable statesman 
 ("Wyndham), "the lungs of London;" for they are essential to the 
 healthful respiration of its inhabitants. Westward lie Hyde Park, St. 
 James's and the Green Parks ; eastward, Victoria Park ; and south- 
 ward, Kennington and Battersea Parks ; and for the north of London 
 it is proposed to form 
 
 ALBERT, or FINSBURY PARK, equidistant from Regent and Victoria 
 Parks; and to commence at Highbury Crescent, passing along the right 
 side of Holloway and Hornsey roads to the Seven Sisters'-road, and in- 
 cluding all the space of fields to the west of Newington Green ; after- 
 wards inclining towards the New River, which it is proposed to cross 
 north of the Horse-shoe, excluding the Birmingham Junction Railway, 
 and extending to the bottom of Highbury Grove, completing the en- 
 closure of 300 acres. 
 
 BATTERSEA. PARK, upon the south bank of the Thames, opposite 
 Chelsea Hospital, was in the course of formation in 1854. 
 
 GREEN PARK (THE), 71 acres in extent, adjoins St. James's Park 
 on the north, and extends westward to Hyde Park Corner, the line of 
 communication being by the fine road Constitution- Hill. It was for- 
 merly called Little St. James's Park, and was reduced in 1767, by 
 George II I., to add to the gardens of Buckingham House. At the Peace 
 Commemoration, in 1814, here was erected a vast Temple of Concord, 
 with allegorical paintings and illuminations and fireworks. In 1840-41 
 the entire Park was drained, and the surface relaid and planted ; and 
 the Deputy Ranger's Lodge, towards the north-west corner, has been 
 removed. At the north-east corner is the Chelsea Waterworks Re- 
 servoir, reconstructed in 1829, 44 feet above Trinity high-water mark 
 of the Thames, and containing 1,500,000 gallons. This high ground 
 commands tine views of the Norwood and Wimbledon hills, and of the 
 roof of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
 
 On the east side of the Park is a row of noble mansions, including 
 Stafford House (see p. 494) ; Bridgewater House (p. 483) ; and Spencer 
 House (p. 494), with its finial statues, commended by Sir William 
 Chambers. The gardens of the several houses are leased of the Crown. 
 
 Dr. King relates, that Charles II. having taken two or three turns one morn- 
 ing in St. James's Park, attended only by the Duke of Leeds and Lord Cromarty, 
 walked up Constitution Hill ; and as the king was crossing the road into Hyde 
 Park, met the Duke of York in his coach, returning from hunting. The duke 
 ! alighted to pay his respects to the king, and expressed his surprise to meet his 
 ! majesty with such a small attendance, adding that he thought the king exposed 
 ; himself to some danger. " No kind of danger, James ; for I am sure no man in 
 England will take away my life to make you king," was Charles's reply. 
 
 In Constitution-Hill-road, near the Palace, three diabolical attempts 
 have been made to shoot Queen Victoria : by a lunatic named Oxford, 
 June 10, 1840 ; by Francis, another lunatic, May 30, 1842 ; and by an 
 idiot named Hamilton, May 19, 1849. On June 29, 1850, at the upper 
 end of the road, Sir Robert Peel was thrown from his horse, and died 
 at his house in Whitehall Gardens, on July 2. 
 
 The Arch at the entrance of the road from Hyde Park Corner is a 
 
584 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 poor adaptation from the Arch of Titus at Rome, and was originally 
 designed as an entrance to Buckingham Palace Gardens. 
 
 HYDE PARK extends from Piccadilly westward to Kensington Gar- 
 dens, and lies between the great western and Bayswater roads. It is 
 the site of the ancient manor of Hyde, which belonged to the monastery 
 of St. Peter, Westminster, until it was conveyed to Henry VIII. in 
 1536, soon after which a keeper of the park is mentioned. In 1550 the 
 French ambassador hunted here ; and in 1578 the Duke Casimir shot 
 a doe from amongst 300 other deer in Hyde Park. In 1652 it was sold 
 by order of Parliament, for about 17,000?. ; the deer being valued, in 
 addition, at 7651. 6s. Id. The Park then contained 620 acres, and ex- 
 tended eastward to Park-lane, and on the west almost to the front of 
 Kensington Palace: it is described in the indenture of sale as "that 
 impaled ground called Hyde Park;" but, with the exception of Tyburn 
 meadow, the enclosure for the deer, the old lodge at Hyde Park 
 Corner, and the Banqueting House, the Park was left in a state of 
 nature ; and De Grammont describes it as a barn-field in the time of 
 Charles II. Ben Jonson mentions its great spring show of coaches ; 
 and Brome names its races, horse and foot; and in Shirley's play of 
 Hyde Park, 1637, is the scene of a race in the Park between an Irish 
 and English footman.* After the sale by Parliament, tolls were levied. 
 
 " llth April, 1653. I went to take the aire in Hide Park, when every coach 
 was made to pay a shilling, and every horse sixpence, by the sordid fellow (An- 
 thony Deane, of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, Esq.) who had purchas'd it of the 
 State, as they were call'd." Evelyn. 
 
 The Park does not appear to have been thrown open to the public 
 until the time of Charles I., and then not indiscriminately. 
 
 In the Character of England, 1659, it is described as " a field near the town, 
 which they call Hyde Park ; the place not unpleasant, and which they use as our 
 course ; but with nothing of that order, equipage, and splendour ; being such an 
 assembly of wretched jades and hackney-coaches, as, next a regiment of carr- 
 men, there is nothing approaches the resemblance. This parke was, it seems, 
 used by the late king and nobility for the freshness of the air and the goodly pro- 
 spect ; but it is that which now (besides all other exercises) they pay for here in 
 England, though to be free in all the world besides; every coach and horse which 
 enters buying his mouthful and permission of the publicane who has purchased 
 it, for which the entrance is guarded with porters and long staves." 
 
 At the Restoration, Mr. Hamilton was appointed Ranger of the 
 Park, which he let in farms until 1670, when it was enclosed with a walkj 
 and re-stocked with deer. Refreshments were thus early sold; for 25tb 
 April, 1669, Pepys carried his pretty wife to the lodge, and there in 
 their coach ate a cheesecake, and drank a tankard of milk. De Gram- 
 mont describes the promenade as " the rendezvous of fashion and beauty* 
 Every one, therefore, who had either sparkling eyes or a splendid equip- 
 age, constantly repaired thither; and the king (Charles II.) seemed 
 pleased with the place." Maying was a favourite custom here : May 1, 
 1661, Evelyn " went to Hide Park to take the air ; where was his Ma- 
 jestv and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being 
 now the time of universal festivity and joy." Even in the Puritan times, 
 May (1654) "was more observed by people going a-maying than for 
 divers years past; and, indeed, much sin committed by wicked meetings, 
 with fiddlers, drunkenness, ribaldry, and the like. Great resort came 
 to Hyde Park, many hundreds of coaches, and gallants in attire ; but 
 most shameful powdered-hair men, and painted and spotted women." 
 A few days after, the Lord Protector and many of his Privy Council 
 
 In Charles-street, May Fair, is a public-house with the sign of a Footman, 
 beneath whose figure are the words, " I am the only Running Footmau." 
 
PARKS ! HYDE PARK. 585 
 
 witnessed in Hyde Park " a bowling of a great ball by 50 Cornish 
 gentlemen of one side, and fifty of the other ; one party playing in red 
 caps, and the other in white. The ball they played withal was silver, 
 and designed for that party which did win the goal." Evelyn, in May 
 1658, " went to see a coach-race in Hyde Park ;" and Pepys, August 1660, 
 *' To Hyde Park by coach, and saw a fine foot-race three times round the 
 park." Here a strange accident happened to Cromwell in 1654: 
 
 " The Duke of Holstein made him (Cromwell) a present of a set of gay Fries- 
 land coach-horses; with which, taking the air in the park, attended only with 
 his secretary, Thurloe, and a guard of Janizaries, he would needs take the place 
 of the coachman, and not content with their ordinary pace, he lashed them very 
 furiously. But they, unaccustomed to such a rough driver, ran away in a rage, 
 and stopped not till they had thrown him out of ihe box, with which fall his pistol 
 fired in his pocket, though without any hurt to himself; hy which he might have 
 been instructed how dangerous it was to meddle with those things wherein he 
 had no experience." Ludlow. 
 
 Cromwell was partial to Hyde Park : here Syndercombe and Cecill 
 lay wait to assassinate him, when " the hinges of Hyde Park gate were 
 filed off, in order to their escape." The Ring was, from all time pre-, 
 vious to the Restoration till far in the reigns of the Georges, the fashion- 
 able haunt. It was situated to the north of the present Serpentine, and 
 part of the Ranger's grounds cover its site; some of the old trees remain, 
 with a few of the oaks traditionally said to have been planted by Charles 
 II. Near the Ring was the Lodge called the " Grave Prince Maurice's 
 Head," and in later times the " Lake House :" a slight stream ran before 
 it ; and the house, approached by planks, presented a very picturesque 
 appearance : it is engraved in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1801. 
 
 Reviews have, for nearly two centuries, been favourite spectacles in 
 Hyde Park. At the Restoration, during a splendid show, the Lord 
 Mayor received notice that " Colonel John Lambert was carried by the 
 park a prisoner unto Whitehall." 
 
 Pepys "did stand" at another review in 1664, when Charles II. was present, 
 
 while "the horse and foot march by and discharge their guns, to show a French 
 
 marquisse (for whom this muster was caused) the goodnesse of our firemen; 
 
 which, indeed, was very good, though not without a slip now and then; and one 
 
 broadside close to our coach as we had going out of the parke, even to the neare- 
 
 |] nesse to be ready to burn our hairs. Yet mt-thought all these gay men are not the 
 
 I soldiers that must do the king's business, it being such as these that lost the old 
 
 king all he had, and were beat by the most ordinary fellows that could be." 
 
 The Militia review by George II. in 1759, the Volunteers by George 
 III., and the encampment of the troops after Lord George Gordon's 
 Riots in 1780, also belong to the military shows of Hyde Park. Here 
 George III. inspected the Volunteers on his birth-day, June 4th, for 
 several years: in 1800 they numbered 15,000. In August, 1814, was held 
 in this park the Regent's Fete and Fair, when a mimic sea-fight was 
 I exhibited on the Serpentine, and fireworks from the wall of Kensington 
 ] Gardens; and here have been held in the present century three " Coro- 
 i nation Fairs," and firework displays. Of sterner quality was the ren- 
 Idezvous of the Commonwealth troops in the park during the Civil War. 
 ! Essex and Lambert encamped their forces here ; and Cromwell.reviewed 
 'his terrible Ironsides. In 1642 the citizens threw up a strong fort, with 
 (four bastions, at the south- east corner of the Park; and one of its strongest 
 | works, " Oliver's Mount," faced Mount- street, in Park-lane. (See FOR- 
 ITIFICATIONS, page 310.) 
 
 Hyde Park continued with little alteration, till, in 1705, nearly 30 
 {acres were added to Kensington Gardens by Queen Anne ; and nearly 
 300 acres by Caroline, Queen of George II. (see KENSINGTON GAB- 
 DENS, page 433), by whose order also, in 1730-3, was formed the Ser- 
 pentine River. .It has also been reduced by grants of land, between 
 
586 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Hyde Park Corner and Park -lane, for building ; and according to a sur- 
 vey taken in 1790, its extent was 394 acres 2 roods 38 poles. 
 
 In 1766, John Gwynne, the architect, proposed to build in Hyde 
 Park a royal palace for George III.; and in 1825, a Member of Parlia- 
 ment published a magnificent design for a palace near Stanhope Gate. 
 
 Permission to " vend victuals" in Hyde Park was granted by 
 George II. to a pilot who saved him from wreck in one of his voyages 
 from visiting his Hanoverian dominions; and it is stated that the pilot's 
 descendants to this day exercise the privilege. At the same time the 
 king gave his deliverer a silver-gilt ring, which bears the arms of Po- 
 land impaled with those of Lithuania, surmounted by a regal crown. 
 This ring was exhibited to the British Archaeological Association, 
 Feb. 9, 1853. 
 
 The Conduits of Hyde Park are described at p. 230. Upon the east 
 side, 70 feet above Trinity high-water mark of the Thames, is the Chelsea 
 Waterworks Reservoir, which contains about 1,500,000 gallons: the 
 iron railing and dwarf wall were added to prevent suicides, which were 
 formerly frequent here. Upon the east side was Walnut-tree Walkf 
 * shaded by two rows of noble walnut-trees, extended to a large circle: 
 these trees were cut down about 1800, and the wood was used by Govern* 
 ment for the stocks of soldiers' muskets. 
 
 The colossal statue near the south-east corner of the park, cast 
 by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., from twelve 24-pounders, weighing up- 
 wards of 30 tons, is about 18 feet high, and occupies a granite pedestal, 
 bearing this inscription : " To Arthur Duke of Wellington, and his 
 brave companions in arms, this statue of Achilles, cast from cannon 
 taken in the battles of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, 
 is inscribed by their countrywomen." On the base is inscribed : " Placed 
 on this spot on the 18th day of June, 1822, by command of his Majesty 
 George IV." The figure is copied from one of the antique statues on 
 the Monte Cavallo at Rome, and is improperly called Achilles : it has 
 never received its sword ! The cost of this monument, 10,000/., was 
 subscribed by ladies. 
 
 Gates. The principal entrance is at Hyde Park Corner, through ft 
 triple-arched and colonnaded screen, designed by Decimus Burton, and 
 described at page 19 : eastward is Apsley House, nearly upon the site 
 of which stood the old lodge of the park. In Park-lane is Stanhope- 
 gate, opened about 1750 ; and Grosvenor-gate, in 1724, by subscription 
 of the neighbouring inhabitants. Cumberland-gate, at the west end of 
 Oxford-street, was opened about 1744-5, at the expense of the inhabit- 
 ants of Cumberland-place and the neighbourhood: it was a mean 
 brick arch, with side entrances : here took place a disgraceful contest 
 between the people and the soldiery at the funeral of Queen Caroline, 
 August 15, 1821, when two persons were killed by shots from the 
 Horse-guards on duty. In 1822, the unsightly brick and wooden gate 
 was removed ; and handsome iron gates were substituted, at the cost of 
 nearly 2000?., by Mr. Henry Philip Hope, of Norfolk-street, Park-lane. 
 In 1851 these gates were removed for the marble arch from Bucking- 
 ham Palace, and placed on each side of it ; the cost of removing the 
 arch and rebuilding it being 4340J. (See ARCHES, pages 18, 19.) 
 In the Bayswater-road is Victoria-gate : nearly opposite is the hand- 
 some terrace, Hyde-Park Gardens. Upon the south side of the park 
 is the Kensington gate; the Prince of Wales's gate, near the site of the 
 Half-way House ; and Albert-gate, Knightsbridge. 
 
 Rotten Row, on the south side of the park, extends about 1J mile 
 from the lodge at Hyde Park Corner to the Kensington gate : it is for 
 saddle-horses, who can gallop over its fine loose gravel without danger 
 from falling; and it is crowded with equestrians between 5 and 7 P.M. 
 
PARKS : HYDE PARK. 587 
 
 during the high London season. The name Rotten is traced to rotteran, 
 to muster; which military origin may refer to the park during the 
 Civil War. Between Rotten-row and the Queen's Drive was erected 
 the Building for the Great Exhibition of 1851 : 
 
 " But yesterday a naked sod, 
 
 The dandies sneered from Rotten-row, 
 And sauntered o'er it to and fro, 
 
 And see 'tis done ! 
 As though 'twere by a wizard's rod, 
 A blazing arch of lucid glass 
 Leaps like a fountain from the grass, 
 
 To meet the sun ! 
 A quiet green but few days since, 
 With cattle browsing in the shade, 
 And lo ! long lines of bright arcade 
 
 In order raised; 
 A palace as for fairy Prince, 
 A rare pavilion, such as man 
 Saw never since mankind began, 
 And built and glazed !" 
 May-day Ode, by W. M. Thackeray: Times, May 1, 1851. 
 
 The Crystal Palace, as the building was appropriately named, from 
 its roof and sides being of glass, was designed by Mr. (now Sir Joseph) 
 Paxton, and was constructed by Mr. (now Sir Charles) Fox, and Mr. 
 Henderson. The ground was broken July 30, 1850 ; the first column 
 was placed Sept. 26 ; and the building was opened May 1, 1851. It was 
 a vast expansion of a conservatory design, built at Chatsworth by Mr. 
 Paxton, for the flowering of the Victoria Lily. The Crystal Palace 
 was cruciform in plan, with a transept, nave, and side aisles; consist- 
 ing of a framework of wrought and cast iron, firmly braced together, 
 | and based upon a foundation of concrete. It was built without a single 
 | scaffold-pole, a pair of shears and the Derick crane being the only 
 <| machinery used in hoisting the materials. In the plan, every measure- 
 Iment was a multiple of 8. Thus the columns were all 24* feet high, 
 sand 24 feet apart ; and the centre aisle or nave was 72 feet, or 9 times 
 18. Again, one single area, bounded by 4 columns and their crowning 
 jgirders, was the type of the whole building, which was a simple aggre- 
 
 gation of so many cubes, in extreme length 1851 feet, corresponding 
 with the year of the Exhibition. "Width 408 feet; with an additional 
 (projection on the north side, 936 feet long by 48 wide. The great 
 avenues ran east and west ; very near the centre crossed the transept, 
 72 feet high, and 108 wide. Its roof was semicircular, designed by Mr. 
 (now Sir Charles) Barry, so as to preserve three fine old elms. The 
 other roofs, designed by Mr. Paxton, were flat. 
 
 The entire area of the building was 772,784 square feet, or about 
 19 acres, nearly seven times as much as St. Paul's Cathedral. " The 
 JAlhambra and the Tuileries would not have filled up the eastern and 
 [western nave; the National Gallery would have stood beneath the 
 transept ; the palace of Versailles (the largest in the world) would have 
 : extended but a little way beyond the transept ; and a dozen metropo- 
 litan churches would have stood erect under its roof of glass." Athen- 
 aum, No. 1227. 
 
 The entire ground area was divided into a central nave, four side 
 aisles, and several courts and avenues ; and a gallery ran throughout 
 the building. There were about 3000 columns, nearly 3500 girders, 
 and altogether about 4000 tons of iron built into the structure. 
 
 The iron skeleton progressed with the framing and glazing, re- 
 
 buiring 200 miles of wooden sash-bars, and 20 miles of Paxton gutters 
 
 i tor the roof, which required 17 acres of glass; besides which, there 
 
588 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 were 1500 vertical glazed sashes. Flooring 1,000,000 square feet ; total 
 wood-work, 600,000 cubic feet. The hollow cast-iron columns con- 
 veyed the rain-fall from the roof. The ventilation was by louvre-boards. 
 
 The decoration of the interior, devised by Owen Jones, consisted of 
 the application of the primitive colours, red, blue, and yellow, upon 
 narrow surfaces : it was charmingly artistic, and was rapidly executed 
 by 500 painters. During the months of December and January, up- 
 wards of 2000 workmen were employed throughout the building. 
 
 The vast Palace was filled with the World's Industry : in the wes- 
 tern portion were the productions of the United Kingdom, India, and 
 the Colonies; and the eastern, those of Foreign Countries. The value 
 of the whole (except the Koh-i-noor diamond) was 1,781,929Z. Us. 4d. 
 
 The opening of the Exhibition, on May 1, 1851, was proclaimed by Queen Vic- 
 toria, accompanied by Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, and the Princess 
 Royal. Between May 1 and Oct. 11 the number of visits paid was 6,063,986; 
 mean daily average, 43,536. On three successive days there entered 107,815, 
 109,915, 109,760 persons, who paid respectively 5175/., 5231/., and 5283^. There 
 were counted in the Palace 93,000 persons at one time. Cost of the building, 
 176, 030/. 13*. 8d. Oct. 15, Jury Awards and closing ceremonial. The whole 
 building was removed before the close of 1852 ; and, on Nov. 7, 1853. it was pro- 
 posed to place upon the site a memorial of the Exhibition, to include a statue of 
 Prince Albert, the originator of this display of the Industry of all Nations. 
 
 " But for Prince Albert, say what people will of others' part in the affair, we 
 should never have had the Great Exhibition. In like manner, but for Sir Joseph 
 Paxton we should never have had the Crystal Palace; and but for Sir Charles 
 Fox, it is more than questionable whether that structure could have been under- 
 taken and completed so promptly, so speedily, so securely, and with so much that 
 is admirable and beautiful in its construction and details." Times, Oct. 25, 1851. 
 
 Hyde Park being for the most part high and dry, is perhaps the 
 most "airy and healthy spot in London. The north-west or deer park, 
 verging upon Kensington Gardens, is even of a rural character: the 
 trees are picturesque, and deer are occasionally here. The Serpentine 
 has upon its margin some lofty elms; but from other positions of the 
 park many fine old timber-trees have disappeared, and the famous Ring 
 of Charles II.'s days can be but imperfectly traced. The drives and 
 walks have been greatly extended and improved : for the brick wall 
 has been substituted iron railing; and the opening of three gates (Vic- 
 toria, Albert, and Prince of Wales), and the Queen's Drive south of the 
 Serpentine, denominate the improvements in the present reign. 
 
 From this high ground the artistic eye enjoys the sylvan scenery of 
 the park : the old trees fringing the Serpentine, and its water gleaming 
 through their branches ; backed by the rich woods of Kensington Gar- 
 dens ; and the bold beauty of the Surrey hills. 
 
 THE SERPENTINE (so called in distinction from the previous straight 
 canals) is a pool of water covering 50 acres, formed from natural springs, 
 and originally fed at the Bayswater extremity by a stream from West- 
 End, near Hampstead, and the overplus of certain reservoirs, one of 
 which occupied the site of Trinity Church. In 183 1 the stream, or 
 rather sewer, at Bayswater was cut off, and the deficiency was made 
 up from the Chelsea Waterworks. At the eastern end the Serpentine 
 imperfectly supplies an artificial cascade, formed in 1817 ; and descend- 
 ing into the "leg of mutton" pond, the stream leaves Hyde Park at 
 Albert Gate, divides the parish of Chelsea from that of St. George's 
 Hanover-square, and falls into the Thames at Chelsea. The Serpentine 
 supplies the Knightsbridge Barracks and the Horse-guards, the lake in 
 Buckingham Palace Gardens, and the ornamental water in St. James's 
 Park. The depth in Hyde Park varies from 1 to 40 feet, of which Sir 
 John Rennie found, in 1849, in the deepest parts, from 10 to 15 fee* 
 of inky, putrid mud, " a laboratory of epidemic miasma." The Ser- 
 
PARKS : ST. JAMES'S PARK. 589 
 
 pentine is deepest near the bridge, described at page 434 : the whole 
 sheet has been deepened, at a cost of from 10,OOOJ. to 20,000?. Here 
 200,000 persons, on an average, bathe annually, sometimes 12,000 on a 
 Sunday morning; and in severe winters the ice is the great metropo- 
 litan skating-field. In 1847, pleasure-boats for hire were introduced 
 upon the Serpentine : the boat-houses are picturesque. 
 
 On the north margin the Royal Humane Society, in 1794, built their 
 principal receiving-house, upon ground presented by George III. In 
 1834 the house was rebuilt, from the design of J. B. Bunning ; the first 
 stone being laid by the late Duke of Wellington : over the Ionic en- 
 trance is sculptured the obverse of the Society's medal, a boy striving 
 to rekindle an almost extinct torch by blowing it; legend, Lateat 
 scintillvla forsan " Perchance a spark may be concealed." In the 
 rear are kept boats, ladders, ropes and poles, wicker- boats, life-pre- 
 serving apparatus, &c. The Royal Humane Society was founded in 
 1774, by Drs. Goldsmith, Heberden, Towers, Lettsom, Hawes, and 
 Cogan. Its receiving-houses in the parks cost 3000Z. a-year. In odd 
 contiguity to the Society's House in Hjfde Park is the" Government 
 Magazine, containing stores of ammunition and gunpowder. 
 
 Duels fought in Hyde Park. Temp. Henry VIII., the Duke of B. and Lord 
 , "near the first tree behind the Lodge;" both killed. 1712. The Duke of 
 Hamilton and Lord Mohun, the former killed. 1763. Wilkes and Mr. S. Martin, 
 the hero of Churchill's Duellist. 1770. Baddeley, the comedian, and George 
 Garrick. 1 773. Mr. Whately and Mr. Temple. 1780. The Earl of Shelburne 
 and Col. Fullarton. 1780. Rev. Mr. Bate and Mr. R., both of the Morning Post. 
 1782. Rev. Mr. Allen and Mr. Dulany. 1783. Lieut -Col. Thomas and Col. 
 Gordon, the former killed. 1787. Sir John Macpherson and Major Browne. 
 1792. Messrs. Frizell and Clarke, law students, the former killed. 1796. Mr. 
 Carpenter and Mr. Pride (Americans), the former killed. 1797. Col. King and 
 Col. Fitzgerald, the latter killed. Lieut. W. and Capt. I., the latter killed. 
 1822. The Duke of Bedford and the Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 Near the site of the Humane Society's Receiving-house formerly 
 stood a cottage, presented by George 111. to Mrs. Sims, in considera- 
 tion of her having lost six sons in war ; the last fell with Abercrombie 
 at Alexandria. This cottage has been painted by Nasmyth, and en- 
 jgraved in the Art Journal, No. 59, N. S. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PARK is in plan an irregular triangle, 83 acres in 
 i extent. It was originally a swampy field attached to St. James's 
 Hospital: the ground was drained and enclosed by Henry VIII., who 
 ; thus made it the pleasure-ground both of the Hospital, which he had 
 1 converted into St. James's Palace, and of Whitehall, whose tilt-yard, 
 1 cockpit, tennis-court, and bowling-green were on the eastern verge 
 : of the Park ; but during the reigns of Elizabeth and the first two 
 Stuarts, it was little more than a nursery for deer, and an appendage 
 i EO the tilt-yard. A procession of 15,000 citizens, " besides wiffiers and 
 lother awayters," on May 8, 1539, passed " rounde about the Parke of 
 St. James." In the reign of Charles I. a sort of royal menagerie 
 (took the place of the deer with which the "inward park" was stocked 
 in the days of Henry and Elizabeth. Charles, as he walked through 
 he Park to Whitehall on the fatal January 30, 1648-9, is said to have 
 ointed to a tree which had been planted by his brother, Prince Heary, 
 ear Spring Gardens. Here Cromwell, as he walked with Whitelocke, 
 ked him, "What if a man should take upon him to be king?" to 
 hich the memorialist replied : " I think that remedy would be worse 
 than the disease." Evelyn, in his Sylva, mentions the branchy walk of 
 pirns in the Park, "intermingling their reverend tresses:" 
 
 "That living gallery of aged trees was once proposed to the late Council of 
 State (as they called it) to be cut down and sold, that, with the rest of his Ma- 
 
590 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 jesty's houses already demolished and marked out for destruction, his trees might 
 likewise undergo the same destiny, and no footsteps of monarchy remain unvio- 
 lated." 
 
 Charles II. added 36 acres to the Park, extended the wall towards 
 Pall Mall, and had it planted by Le Notre, and, it is believed, by Dr, 
 Morison, formerly employed by the Duke of Orleans. The original 
 account for " workes and.serviees" is signed by Charles himself. Pepys 
 and Evelyn record the progress of the works : 
 
 " 16 Sept. 1660. To the Park, where I saw how far they had proceeded in tht 
 Pell Mell, and in making a river through the Park." " 11 Oct. 1660. To walk in 
 St. James's Park, where we observed the several engines at work to draw up 
 water." " 4 Aug. 1661. Walked into St. James's Park, and there found great 
 and very noble alterations." " 27 July, 1662. I to walke in the Parke, which is 
 now every day more and more pleasant by the new works upon it." " 1 Dec. 
 1662. Over the Parke, where I first in my life, it being a great frost, did see 
 people sliding with their skeates, which is a very pretty art." " 15 Dec. 1662. To 
 the Duke (of York), and followed him into the Parke, where, though the ice was. 
 broken and dangerous, yet he would go slide upon his scates, which I did not 
 like; but he slides very well." " 11 Aug. 1664. This day, for a wager, before the 
 king, my lords of Castlehaven and Arran, a son of my Lord of Ormond's, they 
 two alone did run down and kill a stout buck in St. James's Park." Pepys. " 
 Feb. 1666-7. In the afternoon I saw a wrestling match for 100CJ. in St. James's 
 Park, before his Maty, a world of lords, and other spectators, 'twixt the Western 
 and Northern men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Le Gerard being the judges. The 
 Western men won. Many greate sums were betted." Evelyn. 
 
 The courtly Waller thus commemorates the Park, "as lately improved 
 by his Majesty," 1661 : 
 
 " For future shade, young trees upon the banks 
 Of the new stream appear, in even ranks; 
 The voice of Orpheus, or Amphion's hand, 
 In better order could not make them stand. 
 
 * * * * 
 
 All that can, living, feed the greedy eye, 
 Or dead the palate, here you may descry ; 
 The choicest things that furnish'd Noah's ark, 
 Or Peter's sheet, inhabiting this Park: 
 All with a border of rich fruit-trees crown'd, 
 Whose lofty branches hide the lofty mound. 
 Such various ways the spacious valleys lead, 
 My doubtful Muse knows not what path to tread. 
 Yonder the harvest of cold months laid up, 
 Gives a fresh coolness to the royal cup : 
 There ice, like crystal, firm and never lost, 
 Tempers hot July with December's frost; 
 
 * * * * 
 
 Here a well-polish'd Mall gives us the joy, 
 
 To see our Prince his matchless force employ." 
 
 Faithorne's plan, taken soon after the Restoration, shows the north j 
 half of the parade occupied by a square enclosure, surrounded by twenty- ] 
 one trees, with one tree in the centre ; and in the lower part of the 
 parade broad running water, with a bridge of two arches in the middle. , 
 Later views show the Park with long rows of young elm and lime trees, ', 
 fenced with palings, and occasionally relieved by some fine old trees. 
 
 The Mall, on the north side, a vista half a mile in length, was named 
 from the game of " pale maille" played here, and was a smooth hollow 
 walk planted on each side, and having an iron hoop suspended from the 
 arm of a high pole, through which ring the ball was struck by amaille, 
 or mallet. (See a drawing, temp. Charles IT., engraved in Smith's An- 
 tiquities of Westminster, and a plate in Carter's Westminster.) Here 
 Charles and his courtiers often played : the earth was mixed with pow- 
 dered cockle-shells to make it bind ; " which, however," says Pepys, 
 "in dry weather turns to dust, and deads the ball." 
 
PARKS : ST. JAMES'S PARK. 591 
 
 " 2 April, 1661. To St. James's Park, where I saw the Duke of York playing 
 at pall-mall, the first time that I ever saw the sport." Pepys. 
 
 Cibber tells us that here he had often seen Charles playing with his 
 dogs and feeding his ducks, which made the common people adore him. 
 
 The Bird-cage Walk, on the south side of the Park, nearly in the 
 same line as the road which still retains the name, had in Charles Il.'g 
 time the cages of an aviary disposed among the trees which bordered 
 it. The keeper of the Volary, or Aviary, was Edward Storey, from 
 i whom or his house is named Storey's Gate. The carriage-road between 
 jthis and Buckingham Gate was, until 1828, only open to the Royal 
 Family, and the Hereditary Grand Falconer, the Duke of St. Albans. 
 
 In the " inward park" was made a formal Canal, 2800 feet in length 
 and 100 feet broad, running from the Parade to Buckingham House. 
 On the south of this canal, near its east end, was the Decoy, a trian- 
 gular nexus of smaller canals, where water -fowl were kept. Within 
 the channels of the Decoy was Duck Island, of which Sir John Flock 
 and St. Evremond were, in succession, appointed governors (with a 
 (salary) by Charles II. ; and Queen Caroline is said to have given the 
 sinecure to the thresher-poet, Stephen Duck: "the island itself," says 
 Pennant, "is lost in the late improvements." 
 
 The Park, as well as the Palace, sheltered persons from arrest ; for, 
 
 n 1632, John Perkins, a constable, was imprisoned for serving the 
 
 Lord Chief-Justice's warrant upon John Beard in St. James's Park. 
 
 To draw a sword in the Park was also a very serious offence. Con- 
 
 ^reve, in his Old Bachelor, makes Bluffe say, " My blood rises at that 
 
 fellow. I can't stay where he is ; and / must not draw in the Park." 
 
 i (Traitorous expressions, when uttered in St. James's Park, were punished 
 
 pore severely. Francis Heat was whipped, in 1717, from CharingCross 
 
 jto the upper end of the Haymarket, fined ten groats, and ordered a 
 
 Ifnonth's imprisonment, for saying aloud in St. James's Park, " God save 
 
 [King James III., and send him a long and prosperous reign !" and, in 
 
 1718, a soldier was whipped in the Park for drinking a health to the Duke 
 
 jpf Ormond and Dr. Sacheverel, and for saying " he hoped soon to wear 
 
 bis right master's cloth." The Duke of Wharton, too, was seized by 
 
 uhe guard in St. James's Park for singing the Jacobite air, " The king 
 
 pall have his own again." See Cunningham's Handbook, p. 260; 
 
 Inhere are printed, from the Letter-book of the Lord Steward's Office, 
 
 llwo letters, dated 1677, sent with two lunatics to Bethlehem : Deborah 
 
 JLyddal, for offering to throw a stone at the queen ; and Richard Harris, 
 
 or throwing an orange at the king, in St. James's Park. 
 
 " Dec. 1, 1662. Having seene the strange and wonderful dexterity 
 
 [>f the sliders on the new canal in St. James's Park, performed before 
 
 heir Majesties by divers gentlemen and others, with scheets after the 
 
 : nanner of the Hollanders, with what swiftness as they pass, how sud- 
 
 lainly they stop in full career upon the ice, I went home." Evelyn. 
 
 Some of the cavaliers had, probably, acquired the art when seeking 
 1 p while away a Dutch winter ; and but for the temporary overthrow 
 If the monarchy, we should not thus early have had skating in England. 
 |The Park soon'became a resort for all classes, since, in 1683, the Duke 
 f York records, Dec. 4 (a very hard frost), " this morning the boys 
 egan to slide upon the canal in the Park." 
 
 Evelyn, in 1664, went to " the Physique Garden in St. James's," 
 here he first saw " orange-trees and other fine trees." He enumerates 
 
 the menagerie, "an ornocratylus, or pelican, a fowle between a 
 torke and a swan ; a melancholy water-fowl, brought from Astracan 
 y the Russian ambassador ; a milk-white raven ; two Balearian 
 ranes,' 1 one of which had a wooden leg "made by a soulder :" there 
 ere also " deere of severall countries, white, spotted like leopards j an- 
 
592 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 telopes, an elk, red deer, roebucks, staggs, Guinea goates, Arabian 
 sheepe," &c. There were " withy-potts, or nests, for the wild fowle 
 to lay their eggs in, a little above y e surface of y e water." 
 
 "25 Feb. 1664. This night I walk'd into St. James his Parke, where I saw 
 many strange creatures, as divers sorts of outlandish deer, Guiny sheep, a white 
 raven, a great parrot, a storke. . . . Here are very stately w ilkes set witli 
 lime-trees on both sides, and a fine pallmall." Journal of Mr. E. Browne, sot 
 of Sir Thomas Browne. 
 
 Evelyn, on March 2, 1671, attended Charles through St. James'i 
 Park, where he saw and heard " a familiar discourse between the Ivinj 
 and Mrs. Nelly, as they called an impudent comedian ; she looking oul 
 of her garden on a terrace at the top, and the King standing on th< 
 green walk under it." (See page 394.) " Of the mount, or raised terrace 
 on which Nelly stood, a portion may still be seen under the park- wall oi 
 Marlborough House." (Cunningham's Nell Gwyn, p. 118.) In th< 
 royal garden where Charles stood, and which was then the northerr 
 boundary of the Park, we find Master Pepys, in his Diary, stealing 
 apples like a schoolboy. Pepys also portrays a court cavalcade in th< 
 Park, all flaunting with feathers, in which Charles appears betweei 
 the Countess of Castlemaine and the Queen, and Mrs. Stewart. 
 
 "While Charles was walking in the Mall, he first received intimatior 
 of Titus Oates's pretended Popish plot. On Aug. 12, 1678, Kirby, thi 
 chemist, accosted the King as he walked in the Park : " Sir," said he 
 " keep within the company : your enemies have a design upon your life 
 and you may be shot in this very walk." Charles was an early rise: 
 and a fast w'alker. Burnet complained that the King walked so fast h< 
 could not keep up with him. When Prince George of Denmark sai( 
 that he was growing too fat, " Walk with me," said Charles, " an< 
 hunt with my brother, and you will not long be distressed with grow 
 ing fat." 
 
 Aubrey relates that Avise Evans had a fungous nose ; and it being 
 told to him that the King's hand would cure him, he awaited Charlei 
 in the Park, kissed the royal hand, and rubbed his nose with it, whicl 
 disturbed the King, but cured Evans. 
 
 Succeeding kings allowed the people the privilege of walking in thi 
 Mall; and the passage from Spring Gardens was opened in 1699 bj 
 permission of King William. Queen Caroline, however, talked of shut 
 ting up the Park, and converting it into a noble garden for St. James' 
 Palace : she asked Walpole what it might probably cost ; who replied 
 f( Only three crowns." 
 
 Dean Swift, who often walked here with the poets Prior and Rowe 
 writes of skating as a novelty to Stella, in 1711 : "Delicious walkinj 
 weather," says he ; " and the Canal and Rosamond's Pond full of rabble 
 sliding, and with skaitts, if vou know what it is." 
 
 This Park was a favourite resort of Goldsmith : 
 
 " If a man be splenetic, he may every day meet companions on the seats in 8\ 
 James's Park, with whose groans he may mix his own, and pathetically talk o 
 the weather." (Essays.) The strolling player takes a walk in St. James's Park 
 " about the hour at which company leave it to go to dinner. There were but fe? 
 in the walks; and those who stayed, seemed by their looks rather more willing ti 
 forget that they had an appetite, than gain one." (Easays.) And dinnerless, Jacl 
 Spindle mends his appetite by a walk in the Park. 
 
 On the south-west side of the Park, connected with the Canal by 
 sluice, was the gloomy Rosamond's Pond, of oblong shape, and over 
 hung by the trees of the Long Avenue : it is mentioned in a grant o 
 Henry VIII. It occurs as a place of assignation in the comedies o! 
 Otway, Congreve, Farquhar, Southerne, and Colley Gibber; and Popi 
 calls it " Rosamonda's Lake." Its name is referred to the frequency o: 
 love- suicides committed here. The Pond was filled up in 1770, whei 
 
PARKS : ST. JAMES'S PARK. 593 
 
 the gate into Petty France was opened for bringing in the soil to fill 
 up the Pond and the upper part of the Canal. 
 
 About 1740, Hogarth painted a large view of Rosamond's Pond, now in the 
 collection of Mr. H. R. Willett, at Merly House, Dorset. This picture has been 
 engraved, but the impressions (100) have not been published ; it was copied by 
 George Cruikshank, in 1842, in his illustrations of Ainsworth's Miser's Daughter. 
 Hogarth also painted a cabinet view of Rosamond's Pond, likewise in the posses- 
 sion of Mr. Willett, who has the receipt for II. 7s. (the sum charged by the 
 painter) in the handwriting of Mrs. Hogarth. The Pond has been engraved by 
 J. T. Smith and W. H. Toms. 
 
 In a house belonging to the Crown, at the south-east corner of 
 Rosamond's Pond, was born George Colman the Younger, who de- 
 scribes the snow-white tents of the Guards, who were encamped in the 
 Park during the Riots of 1780. 
 
 The trees have been thinned by various means. Dryden records, by 
 a violent wind, February 7, 1698-9 : " The great trees in St. James's 
 Park are many of them torn up from the roots, as they were before 
 Oliver Cromwell's death, and the late queen's." In 1833 were thus 
 lost two fine trees, said to have been planted by Charles II. with acorns 
 from Boscobel.* The uniformity of Bird-cage Walk has been spoiled by 
 the new road.f Samouelle, in his Compendium of Entomology, figures 
 a destructive moth " found in July, in St. James's Park, against trees." 
 
 After the death of Charles II., St. James's Park ceased to be the 
 Favourite haunt of the sovereign, but it continued to be the promenade 
 of the people ; and here, in the summer, till early in the present cen- 
 tury, gay company walked for one or two hours after dinner; but the 
 evening dinner has robbed the Park of this charm, and the Mall is prin- 
 cipally a thoroughfare for busy passengers. 
 
 1 My spirits sunk, and a tear started into my eyes, as I brought to mind 
 those crowds of beauty, rank, and fashion, which, till within these few years, 
 Bused to be displayed in the centre Mall of this Park on Sunday evenings during 
 lithe spring and summer. How often in my youth had I been a delighted spec- 
 tator of the enchanted and enchanting assemblage ! Here used to promenade, for 
 mne or two hours after dinner, the whole British world of gaiety, beauty, and 
 [splendour. Here could be seen in one moving mass, extending the whole length 
 |tof the Mall, 5000 of the most lovely women in this country of female beauty, all 
 
 splendidly attired, and accompanied by as many well-dressed men. What a 
 I change, I exclaimed, has a few years wrought in these once happy and cheerful 
 I personages! How many of those who on this very spot then delighted my eyes, 
 litre now mouldering in the silent grave !" Sir R. Phillips's Walk to Kew, 1817. 
 
 For the Peace Commemoration Fete, on August 1, 1814, the Mall 
 land Bird-cage Walk were lighted with Chinese lanterns; a Chinese 
 j bridge and seven-storied pagoda were erected across the canal: they 
 I were illuminated with lamps, and fireworks were discharged from 
 I them, which set fire to the pagoda, and burnt its three upper stories, 
 I when two persons lost their lives. 
 
 Canova, when asked what struck him most forcibly during his visit 
 I to England, is said to have replied, " that the trumpery Chinese bridge 
 I In St. James's Park should be the production of the government, whilst 
 ii ihat of Waterloo was the work of a private company." Quarterly Rev. 
 
 The hints for supplanting the forest-trees which skirt the Park, by 
 powering shrubs, and dressing the ground in a gayer style, so as to 
 
 * The two old railed-in oaks on the north side of the Serpentine, in Hyde 
 Park, where the road turns to Kensington Gardens, are said to have been planted 
 
 - by Charles II. from acorns of the Boscobel Oak. (See HYDE PARK: at page 585, 
 (or " Lake House" read " Cake House.") 
 
 t Here were elms planted by the late Mr. Rench, of Fulham, from trees 
 eared in his own nursery. He married two wives, had 35 children, and died ia 
 783, aged 101 years, in the room wherein he was born. 
 
 Q. Q 
 ' 
 
594 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 convert even the gloomy alleys of St. James's Park into a lively and 
 agreeable promenade, were first published in "A Letter to the Rt. Honi 
 Sir Charles Long," &c. 1825. 
 
 In 1827 was commenced the relaying out of the inner park. The 
 straight canal was altered and extended to a winding lake, with islands 
 of evergreens ; at the west end is a fountain. The borders of the 
 principal walk are planted with evergreens, which are scientifically 
 labelled; some of the fine old elms remain. The glimpses of grand 
 architectural objects from this Park are very striking, and include the 
 towers of Westminster Abbey and the new Houses of Parliament; the 
 extensive front of Buckingham Palace ; the York Column, rising from 
 between terraces of mansions ; and the Horse Guards, terminating the 
 picturesque vista of the lake. Upon the eastern island is the Swiss 4 
 cottage of the Ornithological Society, built in 1841 with a grant of 
 3001. from the Lords of the Treasury : the design is by J. B. Watson, 
 and contains a council-room, keeper's apartments, steam-hatching ap- 
 paratus ; contiguous are feeding- places and decoys ; and the aquatic 
 fowl breed on the island, making their own nests among the shrubs and 
 grasses. In 1849 an experimental crop of Forty-day Maize (from the- 
 Pyrenees) was successfully grown and ripened in this Park. For the 
 privilege of farming the chairs, 251. is paid annually to the office of '< 
 Woods and Forests. 
 
 The fine old trees of the grounds of Carlton House formerly over- 
 hung the road by the Park-wall, now the site of the Pafcstum-Doric 
 substructure of Carlton -House-terrace; the opening in which to the 
 York Column (see page 226) was formed bv command of William IV., 
 as had been the Spring-Garden gate by William III. Milk Fair, left- 
 ward of this gate, is described at page 251. The vista of the Mall, 
 which consists of elms, limes, and planes, is terminated by the grand 
 front of Buckingham Palace. 
 
 In 1854 were found in the roof of the house of the late Mr. B. L. Vulliamy, 
 No. 68 Pall Mall, a box containing four pairs of the mailes, or mallets, and one 
 ball, such as were formerly used for playing the game of pall-mall upon the site | 
 of the above house, or in the Mall of St. James's Park. Each maile is 4 feet in ' 
 length, and is made of lance-wood ; the head is slightly curved, and measures 
 outwardly 5 inches, the inner curve being 4| inches; the diameter of the j 
 maile-ends is 2 inches, each shod with a thin iron hoop ; the handle, which is I 
 very elastic, is bound with white leather to the breadth of two hands, and ter- | 
 minated with a collar of jagged leather. The ball is of box-wood, 2 inches in 
 diameter. The pair of mailes and a ball, here engraved, have been presented to 
 the British Museum by Mr. George Vulliamy. The game was played by striking I 
 the ball (palla, Ital.) with the mallet or maile (maglla, Jtal.) through a ring of ' 
 iron upon a lofty pole at each end of the alley as described at page 590. 
 
 FALL AND MAILES. 
 
 The Wellington Barracks, built near the site of Rosamond's Pond, 
 were first occupied by troops on March 1, 1814 : the Military Chapel 
 was opened May 1, 1838. Eastward was the residence of Lord'Milford, 
 fitted up in 1820 as Her Majesty's Stationery Office, for supplying the 
 public departments of the Government with Stationery. 
 
 St. James's Park was not lighted with gas until 1822 j although 
 
PARKS ! KENNINGTON PARK. 595 
 
 Pall-Mall, adjoining, was the first thoroughfare in London so lighted, 
 and that as early as 1807. 
 
 On the north side of the Parade is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of 
 great length : it was taken by the British at Alexandria, and is mounted 
 upon an English-built carriage. Opposite is the immense mortar cast 
 at Seville by order of Napoleon, employed by Marshal Soult at the 
 siege of Cadiz in 1812, and abandoned by the French army in their 
 retreat from Salamanca : it was presented by the Spanish Cortes to 
 the Prince Regent. The gun-metal bed and carriage were cast at 
 Woolwich in 1814, and consist of a crouching dragon, with upraised 
 wings and scorpion-tail, involving the trunnions ; it Is allegorical of 
 the monster Geryon, destroyed by Hercules. The mortar itself is 8 feet 
 long, 12 inches diameter in bore, and has thrown shells 3$ miles: it 
 weighs about 5 tons. On the pedestal are inscriptions in Latin and Eng- 
 lish. When Soult was in England, in 1838, he good-hum our edly recog- 
 nised his lost gun. Here was also formerly a small piece of artillery 
 which had been taken from Bonaparte at Waterloo. 
 
 The State-Paper Office, further south, occupying part of the site of 
 the house of Lord Chancellor Jefferies, was built by Sir John Soane in 
 1833: it was his latest work, and resembles an Italian palazzo. At 
 No. 17 Duke-street, died in 1849, aged 81, Sir Marc Isambard Brunei, 
 the engineer of the Thames Tunnel. 
 
 Upon the south side of the Park is Milton's garden-house, in Petty 
 France. Hazlitt lived in this house in 1813, when Haydon was one 
 of a christening- party of " Charles Lamb and his poor sister, and all 
 sorts of odd clever people, in a large room, wainscoted and ancient, 
 where Milton had meditated." (Haydon's Autobiography, vol. i. p. 
 211.) In the garden- wall is a doorway, now blocked up, but which 
 once opened into the Park, and was probably that used by Milton 
 in passing from his- house to Whitehall. In Queen-Square-place, and 
 looking upon the garden -ground of Milton's house, was the house of 
 Jeremy Bentham, who died here in 1832. 
 
 Upon the Parade was marshalled the State Funeral Procession of 
 the great. Duke of Wellington, November 18, 3852. The body was re- 
 moved from Chelsea Hospital on the previous midnight, and deposited 
 in the Audience Chamber at the Horse-Guards. Beneath a tent upon 
 the Parade-ground was stationed the Funeral Car, whereon the coffin 
 being placed, and the command given, the cortege, in slow and solemn 
 splendour, moved down the Mall past Buckingham Palace, whence the 
 procession was seen by Her Majesty and the Royal Family. 
 
 The Funeral Car, chiefly designed by Mr. Redgrave, the Art-Superintendent 
 at Marlborough House, consists of the bier, covered with a black velvet pall, dia- 
 pered with the Duke's crest and field-marshals' batons, fringed with laurel-leaves 
 in silver, and inscribed: " Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord." Upcn the 
 bier was placed the coffin, upon which lay the Duke's hat and sword, beneath a 
 canopy ol rich tissue, supported by halberts, hung with chaplets of real laurel. The 
 platform of the car is gilt, and bears the names of the Duke's great victories ; 
 and in the centre part of the sides were groups of modern arms, helmets, guns, 
 flags and drums, furnished by the Board of Ordnance. The carriage, 20 feet by 12, 
 is ornamented in bronze with laurels and figures of Fame ; the 12 wheels have 
 massive lions' heads as bosses : and in front were the Duke's arms, superbly em- 
 blazoned. The car was drawn by 12 horses, in black velvet housings, decorated 
 with trophies and heraldic achievements ; and on each side were borne five 
 superb bannerols. The Car is to be seen at Marlborough House, Pall Mall. 
 
 KENNINGTON PARK, formed from Kennington Common in 1852-3, 
 is described at page 430: it comprises 12 acres, enclosed with iron 
 palisading, and laid out in grass-plots, and planted with shrubs and 
 evergreens ; and Prince Albert's Model Lodging-house at the principal 
 entrance. Old men remember when the Common was the gallows- 
 ground : in 1848 it was the scene of Chartist mob-agitation. 
 
596 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 PRIMROSE HILL PARK, about 50 acres at the foot of Primrose Hill,, 
 is enclosed and laid out for cricket, and planted with trees and shrubs, 
 by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. 
 
 REGENT'S PARK (the), 403 acres, lies between the south foot of 
 Primrose- Hill and the New -road, and includes part of Marylebone 
 Park. (See p. 503.) The relaying out of the estate was proposed in 
 1793, and a large premium offered for the best design ; but it was not 
 until 1812 that any plan was adopted the plan of John Nash, architect, 
 who proposed to connect this new part of the town with Carlton House 
 and St. James's : this has been effected in Regent-street, which, with 
 the Park, is named from their having been projected and laid out during 
 the Regency of George IV. The Park is nearly circular in plan, and is 
 comprised within a ride, or drive, of nearly two miles. The south side is 
 parallel to the New-road ; the east side extends northward to Gloucester- 
 gate; the west side to Hanover-gate; and the northern curve nearly cor- 
 responds with the sweep of the Regent's Canal, at the north-western side 
 of which are Macclesfield-bridge and gate. In the south-west portion of 
 the Park is a sheet of water, in outline resembling the three legs on an 
 Isle-of-Man halfpenny : it is crossed by wire suspension-bridges, and has 
 some picturesque islets, large weeping-willows, shrubs, &c^ Near the 
 southernmost point is the rustic cottage of the Toxopholite Society (see 
 page 7). In the southern half of the Park are two circles : the Inner 
 Circle, formerly Jenkins's nursery -ground, was reserved by Nash asi 
 the site for a palace for George IV.: it is now the garden of the Bo-| 
 tanic Society (see page 52). On the eastern slope, at the north end olj 
 the Park, is" the garden of the Zoological Society. On the east side i 
 a little south of Gloucester-gate, are the enclosed villa and grounds ol 
 the Master of St. Katherine's Hospital, the church and domestic build- 
 ings of which are opposite. Among the detached villas in the Park art 
 the Holme, in the centre, built by William Burton, architect ; St. John's 
 Lodge (Sir Isaac Lyon Goldsmid s), adjoining the Inner Circle; St. Dun- 1 
 Stan's Villa (Marquis of Hertford's), and Holford House (Mr. Holford's). 1 
 on the Outer Road; and near Hanover-gate is Hanover Lodge, formerM 
 the Earl of Dundonald's. The portico of St. Dunstan's Villa is adapteci 
 from the Temple of the Winds at Athens ; the roof is Venetian ; and in ! 
 a recess near the entrance are the two gigantic wooden figures, witb ; 
 clubs and bells, from old St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street (see page 
 225) : they were purchased by the late Marquis of Hertford for 200/ 
 At the south-east corner of the Park is the Diorama building (see p. 252). 
 converted into a Baptist chapel in 1854; beyond is the Colosseum, de- 
 scribed at pp. 221-4. On the south, east, and north-west sides of the 
 Park are highly-embellished terraces of houses, in which the Doric and 
 Ionic, the Corinthian, and even the Tuscan, orders have been em- 
 ployed with ornate effect, aided by architectural sculpture. 
 
 In the Inner Circle, adjoining South Villa, is the Observaiory. 
 erected in 1837 by Mr. George Bishop, F.R.S., F.R.A.S. It consists 
 of a circular equatorial room, with a dome roof; and an arm containing 
 the altitude and azimuth instrument, micrometers, &c. The equatorial 
 telescope, by Dollond, with magnifying powers up to 1200, is driven 
 by clockwork motion ; and in the room is a revolving chair. The lon- 
 gitude of the Observatory is 37f ' W., the latitude 51 31' 298 " N. 
 Since 1844 Mr. J. R. Hind. F.R.A.S., has been attached to the Observa- 
 tory; and his search for new comets and planets, and his study of the 
 variable stars, have been very successful. The Observations of twelve 
 years, 1839-1851, day and night, at this Observatory, are published. 
 
 VICTORIA PARK, Bethnal Green, is 290 acres in extent, or equal to 
 the entire area of Kensington Gardens ; it is bounded on the west bv 
 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 597 
 
 the Regent's Canal, and on the south by Sir George Duckett's Canal. 
 The land was mostly purchased, in 1842, of the trustees of Guy's Hos- 
 pital and Sir John Cass' Charity ; and towards the cost of formation 
 was appropriated 72,0001., received for the remainder of the Crown 
 lease of York House, St. James's. (See STAFFORD HOUSE, page 494.) 
 The chief entrance is at " Bonner's Field," where was a hall tradition- 
 ally tenanted by Bishop Bonner : the forester's lodge is of Elizabethan 
 character, by Pennethorne, and has a lofty tower and porch. The Park 
 is planted with an arboretum; it has two pieces of ornamental water, 
 for bathing, boating, and water-fowl; and upon an island is a two- 
 storied Chinese pagoda. Here are a gymnasium, cricket and archery 
 grounds, and flower, pigeon, and canary shows. The Park has often 
 30,000 visitors in a single day ; Wednesday afternoon is the children's 
 day. In the neighbourhood has been swept away a wretched village of 
 hovels, formerly known as Botany Bay, from so many of its inhabi- 
 tants being sent to the real place. 
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES (THE), 
 
 Styled also "New Westminster Palace," occupy the site of the Royal 
 Palace of the monarchs of England, from Edward the Confessor to 
 Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 Westminster Palace is first named in a charter of Edward the Con- 
 'essor, "made" soon after 1052: here the Confessor died, Jan. 14, 1066. 
 On the Easter succeeding, King Harold came here from York. William 
 the Norman held councils here ; and in 1069, Elfric, Abbot of Peterbo- 
 rough, was tried before the king in curia at Westminster, this being 
 one of the first records of the holding of a law-court on this spot. 
 William Rufus added the Great Hall, wherein he held his court in 
 1099 ; as did also Henry I. Stephen founded the palace chapel, which 
 was dedicated to St. Stephen. In the reign of Henry II., Fitzstephen 
 records : " on the west, and on the bank of the river, the Royal Palace 
 exalts its head, and stretches wide, an incomparable structure, fur- 
 lished with bastions and a breastwork, at the distance of two miles 
 From the City." The Close Rolls, in the Tower of London, contain 
 many curious entries concerning the palace in the time of King John 
 and Henry III.: here, in a great council, Henry confirmed the 
 Vlagna Charta and the Charta de Foresta: in this reign, also, the gib- 
 )et was removed from the palace. In 1238 the whole palace was 
 looded by the Thames, and boats were afloat in the Great Hall. 
 ["here are numerous records in this reign of painting and decorating the 
 >alace, storing its cellars with wine, &c. (See PAINTED CHAMBER, 
 >. 565.) Of the repairs of the mews, the new butlery and kitchen, and 
 he rebuilding and painting of St. Stephens Chapel, in the reign of 
 bdward I., there are minute accounts. In 1298 the palace was nearly 
 Destroyed by fire, but was restored by Edward II. St. Stephen's 
 Chapel was completed by Edward III. The poet Chaucer was clerk of 
 "he palace works in the reign of Richard II., who rebuilt Westminster 
 all nearly as we now see it. In 1512 a great part of the palace was 
 once again burnt, since which time it has not been re-edified : only 
 he Great Hall, with the offices near adjoining, are kept in good repairs ; 
 nd it serveth, as before it did, for feasts at coronations, arraignments 
 f great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of jus- 
 ce, &c. ; but the princes have been lodged in other palaces about the 
 ity, as at Baynard's Castle, at Bridewell, and Whitehall (sometimes 
 ailed York Place), and sometimes at St. James's " (Strype's Stow's 
 London, vol. ii. p. 628, edit. 1755.) Some buildings were added by 
 [enry VIII., who is supposed to have built the Star Chamber ; a por- 
 
598 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tion of which, however, bore the date 1602. (See page 396.) Parlia- 
 ments were held in Westminster Hall temp. Henry III., and thenceforth 
 in the Painted Chamber and White Chamber. After the Suppression, 
 the Commons sat in St. Stephen's Chapel, until its destruction by fire 
 Oct. 16, 1S34, with the House of Lords, and the surrounding Parlia- 
 mentary buildings.* 
 
 The demesne of the Old Palace was bounded on the east by the 
 river Thames; on the north by the Woolstaple, now Bridge-street; 
 on the west by the precincts of St. Margaret's Church and Westminster 
 Abbey, behind Abingdon-street ; and on the south by the line of the 
 present College-street, where formerly ran a stream, called the Great 
 Ditch (now a sewer), outside the palace garden-wall. 
 
 Among the more ancient buildings which existed to our time, was 
 the Painted Chamber, described at page 564. Next was the Old Houte 
 e f Lords (the old Parliament Chamber), rebuilt by Henry II. on the 
 foundations of Edward the Confessor's reign; the walls were nearly 
 seven feet thick, and the vaults (Guy Fawkes' cellar) had been the 
 kitchen of the Old Palace: this building was taken down about 1823, 
 prior to the erection of the Royal Gallery and Entrance, by Soane, R.A. 
 Southward was the Prince's Chamber (then also demolished), with 
 foundations of Edward the Confessor's time, and a superstructure with 
 lancet-windows, temp. Henry III.: the walls were painted in oil with 
 scriptural figures, and hung with tapestry representing the birth of 
 Queen Elizabeth. Next was the Old Court of Requests, supposed to 
 have been the Great Hall of the Confessor's palace : this was, until 1334, 
 the House of Lords, and was hung with tapestry representing the de- 
 feat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 : it was destroyed in the great 
 fire, after which the interior was refitted for the House of Commons. 
 
 The Armada Tapestry was woven by Spiering, from the designs of Henry Cor- 
 nelius Vroom, at Haarlem, for Lord Howard of Effingham, Lord High Aamiral 
 of the En-dish fleet which engaged the Armada ; and was sold by him to James I. 
 It consisted originally of ten compartments, with borders containing portraits of 
 the officers of the English fleet. The hangings were engraved by Hine in 1739. 
 
 St. Stephen's Chapel had its beautiful architecture and sumptuous 
 decoration hidden until the enlargement of the interior in 1800, when 
 its painting, gilding, and sculpture, its traceried and brilliant windows, 
 were discovered. Among the mural paintings were the histories of 
 Jonah, Daniel, Jeremiah, Job, Tobit, Judith, Susannah, and of Bel and 
 the Dragon ; the Ascension of Christ, and the Miracles and Martyr- 
 dom of the Apostles; and in the windows were the stories of Adam 
 and Eve, and of Noah and his Family, of Abraham, Joseph, and the Is- 
 raelites; and of the Life of the Saviour, from his baptism to his cru- 
 . cifixion and death. Among the decorations were figures of angels 
 and armed knights, Edward III. and his family, and heraldic shields; 
 the jewels, vestments, and furniture of the chapel were very superb. 
 The Cloisters were first built in 1356, south of the chapel, on the spot 
 subsequently called Cotton Garden. f The Crypt, or under-chapel of 
 St. Stephen's, is described at page 244. 
 
 On the south side, probably, was the small chapel of St. Mary de 
 la Rewe, or Our Lady of the Rew; wherein Richard II. offered to 
 the Virgin, previously to meeting the insurgents under Wat Tyler in 
 Smithfield, in 1381. " Westminster Hall will be described hereafter. 
 
 * The scene of the conflagration was painted by J. M. W. Turner, R.A., 
 bought by Mr. Chambers Hall, and sold to Mr. Colls. 
 
 f Sir Robert Cotton had a House and Garden abutting against the Painted 
 Chamber; and it was there that his collection ofMss., now in the British Mu- 
 seum, was originally stored. In Cotton House, in 1820, were lodged the Italian 
 witnesses against Queen Caroline. 
 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 599 
 
 Upon its western side were built the new Law Courts, by Soane, R.A., 
 upon the site of the old Exchequer Court, &c. On the east side of New 
 Palace-yard was an arch, temp. Henry III., leading to the Thames; 
 and the old Exchequer buildings and "the Star Chamber, described at 
 page 396. On the northern side of New Palace-yard, directly fronting 
 the entrance-porch of the Great Hall, on a spot now hidden by the 
 houses on the terrace, stood the famous Clock-tower, built and fur- 
 nished with a clock, temp. Edward I., with a fine of 800 marks levied 
 on Chief- Justice Sir Ralph de Hingham for altering a record: the 
 keepers of this clock-tower were appointed by the sovereign, and were 
 paid 6d. a day at the Exchequer. The tower was taken down about 
 1707 ; and its bell, " Great Tom of Westminster," was re-cast (with 
 additional metal) for the great bell of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Hatton describes the House of Commons, altered by Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, in 1706, as ' a commodious building, accommodated with 
 several ranks of seats, covered with green cloth (baize?), and matted 
 under foot, for 513 gentlemen. On three sides of this house are beau- 
 tiful wainscot galleries, sustained by cantaleevers, enriched with fruit 
 and other carved curiosities." 
 
 Of the House of Lords, in 1778, we have a portion in Copley's fine 
 picture of the fall of the great Earl of Chatham. Of the several Gates 
 to the old palace, the only one of which we have any record is that 
 begun by Richard III. in 1484, at the east end of Union-street, and taken 
 down in 1706; but a century later, in a fragment of this gate built 
 into a partition-wall, was found a capital, sculptured with William 
 Rufus granting a charter to Gislebertus, Abbot of Westminster : this 
 capital was sold by Mr. Capon to Sir Gregory Page Turner, Bart., for 
 100 guineas. A plan of the old palace, measured 1793-1823. is engraved 
 in Vetusta Monumenta, vol. v.; in J. T. Smith's Antiquities of West- 
 minster; and in Bravley and Britton's Westminster Palace,t'rom draw- 
 ings by R. W. Billings. 
 
 In 1836 was selected from 97 sets the design of Charles Barry, 
 R.A. The coffer-dam for the river-front was commenced late in 1837 ; 
 the river-wall early in 1839 ; and, on April 27, 1840, was laid the first 
 
 j stone, at the north end of the Speaker's house. The exterior material 
 is fine magnesian limestone, from Anston, in Yorkshire, and Caen 
 stone for the interior; the river-terrace is of Aberdeen granite; the 
 whole building stands on a bed of concrete 12 feet thick. The vast 
 pile covers about eight acres, and has four principal fronts, the eastern 
 or river being 940 feet in length. The plan contains 11 open quad- 
 rangles or courts, which, besides 500 apartments and 18 official resi- 
 idences, flank the royal state-apartments and the Houses of Lords and 
 i Commons, and the great Central Hall. The interior walls are fine brick ; 
 jthe bearers of the floors are cast-iron, with brick arches turned from 
 igirder to girder; the entire roofs are of wrought- iron covered with 
 icast-iron plates galvanised; so that timber has not been used in the 
 
 licarcases of the entire building. 
 
 The New Palace is the largest public edifice which has been erected 
 
 ! for several centuries in England ; and in the arrangement of its apart- 
 
 ( ments for the transaction of public business, in its lighting, ventilation, 
 fire -proof construction, supply of water, &c. it is the most perfect 
 
 i building in Europe. The style is Tudor (Henry VIII.), with pic- 
 turesque portions of the town-halls of the Low Countries, and three 
 grand features : a Clock Tower at the northern extremity, 40 feet 
 square and 320 feet high, resembling that of the Town-house at Brus- 
 sels; a great Central Dome, with an open stone lantern and spire, 
 nearly 300 feet high; and the Royal or Victoria Tower, at the south- 
 west angle, 80 feet square and 340 feet high. 
 
600 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The vast edifice covers at least twice the site of the old Palace of 
 "Westminster, about half the new ground occupied being taken from the 
 Thames. The East or River Front has at the ends projecting wings, 
 each 120 feet in length, with towers of beautiful design, leaving be- 
 tween them a terrace 700 feet long and 33 feet wide. The ^ying- 
 towers have crested roofs and open-worked pinnacles, which, with 
 those of the bays, carry gilded vanes. Between the principal and one- 
 pair floors is a rich band of sculpture, composed of the royal arms of 
 England in each reign, from William I. to Queen Victoria. The band 
 below the principal floor is inscribed with the date of each sovereign's 
 accession and decease; and the panels on each side of the coats- of- arras 
 have sceptres and labels, with badges and inscriptions. In the parapet 
 of each bay is a niched figure of an angel bearing a shield. The carved 
 panels of 'the six oriel windows have the arms of Queen Victoria, 
 to indicate that the building was erected in her reign. The wing, 
 towers, with their octagonal stone pinnacles and perforated iron orna- 
 ments at their angles and crests, remind one of the picturesque roofs 
 of the chateaux and belfry-towers of the Low Countries. 
 
 The North Front has bays and buttresses similar to those of the river 
 front; the bands are sculptured with the quarterings of the kings of 
 England bet ween the Heptarchy and the Conquest, inscriptions and dates 
 of accession, &c. ; while the niches between the windows in each bay 
 contain effigies of the sovereigns whose arms are below. This front 
 terminates at the west with the Clock Tower and turreted lantern spire. 
 The Clock, by Dent, according to the parliamentary conditions, is to 
 " strike the hours on a bell from eight to ten tons, and, if practicable, 
 chime the quarters upon eight bells, and show the time upon four dials 
 about thirty feet in diameter," or nearly twice the size of the clock-face 
 of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 The South Front resembles the north, has similar decorations chro- 
 nologically arranged, and terminates with the Victoria Tower. 
 
 This will be, when completed, the largest and loftiest square tower in the 
 world: in 1853 it had scarcely reached half its altitude. In the lower western 
 face is an archway 50 feet high, through which the royal state-carriage is driven 
 under the tower to the foot of the staircase. The portal is flanked by colossal 
 lions of England bearing the national standard ; and the walls and groined roof 
 are heraldically sculptured. Within the porch, over the archway, in niches, 
 are statues of St. George, St. Andrew, and St. Patrick; and over the archway to 
 the royal staircase, on the north side, is a colossal statue of Queen Victoria,' be- 
 tween allegorical figures of Justice and Mercy. Again, in the exterior of the 
 tower, above the great entrance, are statues of the Queen, the Duke and Duchess 
 of Kent, and other members of the Royal Family. Above these are lofty windows 
 divided by delicate arcade- work. 
 
 Saxon Kings and Queens at the South Front, commencing at the wing tower, 
 and proceeding from base to summit in each bay : Agatha, Harold II., Editha, 
 Edward III., Hardicanute, Harold, Emma, Canute, Elgiva, Edmund, Emma, 
 Ethelred, Edward II.,Elfleda, Edgar. Edwin, Edred, Elgina, Edmund, Athelstan, 
 Elfleda, Edward I., Elwitha, Alfred, Ethelred, Ethelbert, Ethelbald, Judith, 
 Egbert, Ethelwolf ; two kings of Mercia, Northumberland, East Anglia, Wessex, 
 Essex, Kent, and Sussex; sculptured by John Thomas. 
 
 The West Front, towards New Palace-yard, is composed of bays 
 divided by bold buttresses, the niches in which will contain statues of 
 eminent commoners. The only other portion of this front complete 
 to the commencement of 1854, is that opposite Henry the Seventh's 
 Chapel, called St. Margaret's Porch ; and the gable of Westminster 
 Hall, which has been advanced southward, the great window replaced, 
 and thus forms St. Stephen's Porch, with much of the varied and 
 piquant character of the Town-hall of Louvain. The turrets contain 
 statuettes of Edward III. and Queen Philippa, St. George and St. An- 
 drew, Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York, St. Patrick and St. Stephen, 
 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 
 
 601 
 
 NORTH. 
 
 SOUTH. 
 
602 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the gable are statuettes of Edward the Confessor and William Ru- 
 fus, William IV. and Queen Victoria; and this facade is richly sculp, 
 tured with the royal arms, the separate insignia of England, Ireland, 
 and Scotland, badges, &c. The whole composition should be seen from 
 Poets' Corner, and it combines well with Henry the Seventh's Chapel. 
 
 Between the Victoria Tower and St. Stephen's Porch will be a 
 range of buildings four stories in height, with a central clock-tower 
 120 feet high ; and in the rear, extending east, will be a Painted Cham- 
 ber, decorated with frescoes by Herbert, R.A. Besides the great towers 
 already named, oriels and turrets will add effect to the sky-line of the 
 building, whether viewed from the exterior or from the courts. 
 
 One of the public entrances to the Houses of Parliament is by St. 
 Stephen's Staircase, ascending from St. Margaret's Porch : the bosses, 
 panels, and decorative work of the ceiling and the supporting arches 
 are very elaborate ; and the walls will be embellished with frescoes. 
 Westminster Hall forms the grand vestibule of approach from the 
 north. About midway, on the east side of the Hall, is the Member? 
 Entrance to the House' of Commons, through the restored Cloisters of 
 St. Stephen's : the fan-tracery of the roof, and a small projecting chapel 
 or oratory, are very beautiful. A cloister built by Henry VIII. has been 
 restored, as a relic of English mediaeval art. An upper cloister has been 
 added, by which is a staircase to the House of Commons. Returning 
 to Westminster Hall, at the south end is a flight of steps to St. Ste- 
 phen's Porch, 65 feet in height : the great central window is 48 feet 
 high and 25 feet wide, and is filled with stained glass, by Hardman, 
 charged with the insignia of the sovereigns of England. On the right 
 is the entrance from St. Stephen's Staircase, and on the left is a superb 
 doorway leading into St. Stephen's Hall, 95 feet long by 30 feet wide, 
 and 56 feet high, reared upon the ancient Crypt of St. Stephen's, 
 which has been restored for use as the Palace Chapel. (See CRYPTS, 
 page 244.) In St. Stephen's Hall, upon pedestals, are marble statues 
 of Clarendon, by Marshall, R.A.; Hampden, by Foley; Falkland, by 
 Bell; and Mansfield, by Baily, R.A. Here are to be placed other 
 worthies of the Lords and Commons ; and the walls are to be decorated 
 with frescoes. From the floor of St. Stephen's Hall there is no one step 
 throughout the whole extent, all is of one level. Next is 
 
 The Central Hall, an octagon 70 feet square, with the largest span 
 of stone Gothic roof, of similar form, in Europe : the height from the 
 floor to the kev-stone is 75 feet, and the bosses measure 4 feet in dia- 
 meter. The eight sides contain alternately great doorways and win- 
 dows, the latter to be filled with stained glass ; and the niches between 
 the arches are to contain 60 portrait and costume statues of the Eng- 
 lish sovereigns and their queens, sculptured in Caen stone by John 
 Thomas. Amongst the most striking are William I., Henry I., Rich- 
 ard I. and his queen, King John, Eleanor queen of Edward I., Edward 
 III. and his queen Philippa, Henry V. and his queen Katherine, Richard 
 III., Henry VII. and his queen Elizabeth. The encaustic-tile pavement 
 is very tine. Thence a corridor leads north to the Commons' Lobby and 
 House of Commons, and south to the Peers' Lobby and House of 
 Peers. The archway west communicates with St. Stephen's Hall: and 
 the east leads to the'Zoirer Waiting Hall; the Conference Hall, in the 
 river front ; and the Upper Waiting Hall, to be embellished with fres- 
 coes, including the Patience of Griselda (from Chaucer), by Cope; Dis- 
 inheritance of Cordelia by King Lear (from Shakspeare)", by Herbert, 
 R.A. ; the Temptation of Adam and Eve (from Milton), by Horsley; 
 and St. Cecilia (from Dryden), by Tenniel. 
 
 The Electric Telegraph Office (opened April 1, 1853) is in the 
 Central Hall; whence wires are laid to the Company's Office in St. 
 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 603 
 
 James's-street, and the metropolitan stations. Here is also an instru- 
 ment in direct communication with the Hague, for the transmission of 
 messages to the Continent. During the sitting of Parliament, a half- 
 hourly report of the proceedings is telegraphed to the St. James's-street 
 office, where it is printed, and immediately dispatched to the principal 
 Clubs; thus enabling Members to ascertain the probability of divisions. 
 Here is likewise an instrument in connection with the Royal Italian 
 Opera-house, Covent Garden, whither reports of the proceedings of 
 Parliament are transmitted. The Telegraph is extensively used by Par- 
 liamentary agents, and persons interested in Bills before Committees. 
 
 THE ROYAL ENTRANCE is by the Victoria Tower, already described. 
 At the summit of the Royal Staircase is the Norman Porch, named 
 from its statues of kings of the Norman line, and frescoes of scenes 
 from Anglo-Norman history ; its beautifully groined roof and clustered 
 columns, rich bosses and ribs, are of the same period. To the right is 
 the Queen's Robing-room, painted by Dyce, R.A., with frescoes allego- 
 rical of chivalry fostering generous and religious feelings. Next is the 
 Victoria or Royal Gallery, 110 feet in length by 45 feet in width, and 
 45 feet high ; to be decorated with frescoes from English history, an 
 armorial band beneath the stained-glass windows, and a panelled and 
 superbly enriched ceiling. To this gallery the public are admitted, by 
 tickets (to be obtained of the Lord Great Chamberlain), to view the 
 procession of her Majesty to open and prorogue Parliament. 
 
 The Prince's Chamber, a.\i\nd of ante-room to the House of Lords, has 
 the entrance-doorway richly decorated with the national arms, armorial 
 roses and quatrefoils ; and opposite, on the north side, is an arch for a 
 statue of Queen Victoria, by Gibson, R.A. Upon the walls will be 12 
 bas-reliefs, carved in oak, of memorable events in Tudor history; and 
 over these panels, 28 portraits of the same period, painted on a gold 
 ground. The frieze is enriched with oak-leaves and acorns, and armo- 
 rial shields and labels; the windows are painted with the rose, thistle, 
 and shamrock, and regal crowns ; and the armorial ceiling and Tudor 
 fire-places are dight with colour, gilding, and sculpture. 
 
 THE HOUSE OF LORDS is extremely rich in gilding, polychromy, 
 wrought metal, and carved work: its dimensions are, length in the 
 clear, 91 feet, breadth 45 feet, and height 45 feet, so that it is a double 
 cube. The walls are 3 feet 1 inch thick. 
 
 East and west are 12 lofty windows, six on either side, filled with 
 painted-glass whole-length portraits of the Kings and Queens, consort 
 and regnant, of the United Kingdom : six containing figures of the royal 
 line of England before the union of the crowns ; three, of the royal 
 line of Scotland from Bruce to James VI. ; and three, of the sovereigns 
 of Great Britain from the reign of Charles I. The style of colouring 
 in these windows is that of 1450-1500. 
 
 At each end of the House are three archways, within which are the 
 following wall-frescoes : 
 
 Over the Throne : Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black 
 .Prince; C. W. Cope, R.A. The Baptism of St. Ethelbert; W. Dyce, R.A. Prince 
 Henry acknowledging the authority of Judge Gascoigne ; C. W. Cope, R.A. 
 
 Over the 'Strangers' Gallery: The Spirit of Justice ; D. Maclise, R.A. The 
 Spirit of Religion; J. C. Horsley. The Spirit of Chivalry ; D. Maclise, R.A. 
 
 Between the windows, archways, and in the corners, are canopied 
 niches, with pedestals supported by angels bearing shields charged 
 with the arms of the eighteen barons who obtained Magna Charta 
 from King John, and whose bronze effigies occupy the niches. Above 
 these niches are segments of arches, which, as trusses, support the main 
 arches of the ceiling, and are elaborately pierced and carved. 
 
 The ceiling is flat, and divided into compartments containing lozenges 
 
604 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 charged with devices and symbols: the royal monogram, the mono- 
 grams of the Prince of Wales and Prince Albert ; the cognisances of 
 the white hart of Richard II. ; the sun of the House of York ; the 
 crown in a bush, Henry VII. ; the falcon, dragon, and greyhound; the 
 lion passant of England, the lion rampant of Scotland, and the harp of 
 Ireland ; sceptres, orbs, and crowns ; the scales of Justice ; mitres and 
 crosiers, and swords of mercy ; coronets, and the triple plume of the 
 Prince of Wales. Among the devices are the rose of England and 
 the pomegranate of Castile ; the portcullis of Beaufort, the lily of 
 France, and the lion of England ; and the armorial shields of the Saxon 
 Heptarchy. The massive beams appear like solid gold: they are in- 
 scribed on the sides with religious and loyal mottoes. 
 
 Beneath the windows, the walls are covered with oak paneling 
 and carved busts of the sovereigns of England ; and above is the in- 
 scription " God save the Queen," in Tudor characters. Thence springs 
 a coving, in the southern division emblazoned with the arms of lord 
 chancellors and their sovereigns, and northward with the bishops' 
 arms. This coving supports a gallery with wrought-metal railing, 
 richly-carved paneling, and pillars which support a brattishing. 
 
 The centre of the southern end of the House is occupied by the 
 Throne, on either side of which is a doorway leading to the Prince's 
 Chamber. At the northern end of the House, over the principal door- 
 way, is the Strangers' Gallery, behind the Reporters' Gallery, upon 
 the front of which are painted the badges of the sovereigns of England; 
 and over the archways are painted on shields the coat -armour of the 
 Saxon, Norman, Plafitagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hanoverian Houses; 
 the arms of the archiepiscopal sees, and some of the bishoprics ; and in 
 front of the gallery is a clock with an exquisitely carved case and dial 
 enameled in colours. On the right of the Bar is the seat of the Usher 
 of the Black Rod. The peers' seats (accommodating 235) are ranged 
 longitudinally from north to south. At the south end is the clerks' 
 table; and beyond it are the woolsacks, covered with crimson cloth. 
 At the north end is The Bar, a dwarf screen, at which appear the Mem- 
 bers of the House of Commons, and at which counsel plead. At the 
 four angles of the area is a superb brass candelabrum, by Hardman, 
 17 feet high, and weighing 11 fc cwt. The carpet is gold-colour Norman 
 roses upon a deep-blue ground. 
 
 THE ROYAL THRONE, at the south end, is elevated on steps (the 
 centre three, and the sides two), which are covered with a carpet of 
 bright scarlet, powdered with white roses and lions, and fringed with 
 gold-colour. The canopy to the throne is in three compartments : the 
 central one, much loftier than the others, for her Majesty ; that on the 
 right hand for the Prince of Wales, and that on the left for Prince 
 Albert. The back of the central compartment is paneled with lions 
 passant, carved and gilded, on a red ground ; and above are the royal 
 arms of England, elaborately emblazoned, surmounted by the royal 
 monogram and " Dieu et mon droit," in perforated letters; and a 
 brattishing of Greek crosses and fleur-de-lis crests. Above are the 
 crests of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, richly carved ; the 
 ceiling bears the monogram V. R. within an exquisite border, and the 
 flat surfaces painted with stars. The spandrels of the canopy, and the 
 octagonal pillars with coronal capitals, are beautifully carved. In front 
 of the canopy, above a brattishing of perforated Tudor flowers, are five 
 traceried ogee arches : in the central one is the figure of St. George 
 and the Dragon ; and in the two sides are knights of the Garter and 
 Bath, the Thistle and St. Patrick. The angle-buttresses of this canopy 
 have coronal pendants; on the fronts and sides are animals, on the sum- 
 mits open-worked royal crowns. On the sides likewise are shields of 
 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 605 
 
 the arms of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, beautifully carved, 
 painted, and gilded ; and upon pedestals are sitting figures of winged 
 angels holding shields enameled with the arms of England. The side 
 compartments of the canopy have, the one the heraldic symbols of the 
 Prince of Wales, and the other those of Prince Albert, blended with 
 the architectural features: they have covings, gilded, and pedestals 
 supporting a lion and unicorn holding shields of arms; the angle- 
 buttresses have coronal pendants, and the shafts are surmounted by 
 crowns. On either hand is a dwarf wing with pedestal, on which are 
 seated the royal supporters, the lion and unicorn, holding standards 
 enameled with the arms of England. 
 
 The Queen's Chair of State, or Throne, in general outline resembles 
 <( the coronation chair :' the legs rest upon four lions couchant; the 
 base has quatrefoil panels, with crowns and V. It., and sprays of roses, 
 shamrocks, and thistles, and a broad bar of roses and leaves : in the 
 panels beneath the arms of the chair are lions passant and treillage ; 
 upon the back pinnacles are a lion and unicorn, seated, holding scrolls 
 and flanking the gable, within which is a circle of exquisitely quatre- 
 foiled ornament, inclosing the monogram V. R. ; the exterior ridge is 
 carved with roses, and the apex surmounted with a richly decorated 
 crown. The back of the chair is bordered with large egg-shaped pieces 
 of crystal, within which are the royal arms of England, embroidered on 
 velvet. The Footstool has carved sides, and a crimson velvet top, gor- 
 geously embroidered with roses in a border of fleurs-de-lis. 
 
 The State Chairs for the Prince of Wales and Prince Albert are 
 ctirule-shaped, have circular-headed backs, embroidered on velvet with 
 the ostrich triple-plume and the shield of arms. The throne and foot- 
 stool, and the two princes' chairs, are gilded throughout. 
 
 The House of Peers was first occupied by their lordships April 15, 
 1847. 
 
 The Peers' Lobby is 38 feet square and 33 feet high, and has on 
 either side a lofty arch, above which are painted, within arches, the 
 arms of the Saxon, Norman, Plantagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hano- 
 verian royal lines, each surmounted by a royal crown. The north door- 
 way opens into the House of Commons corridor, the south doorway 
 opens into the House of Lords : the arch is boldly sculptured with 
 Tudor roses, royally crowned ; the inner arch is enriched with gilded 
 oak-leaves. The'space over is filled with the royal arms, roses, thistles, 
 and shamrocks, coloured and gilded. The gates are of massive brass, 
 by Hardman, and of richly floriated design, the frames studded with 
 Norman roses. These gates weigh 1 tons, are 12 feet high, and 
 6 feet wide ; and are of a material not used in England for such a pur- 
 pose for nearly 400 years. The side-wall compartments of the Lobby 
 are filled with ogee arches ; and the upper stories are windows, painted 
 by Hardman, and Ballantyne, and Allan, with the arms of the early 
 families of the aristocracy of England. The roof is painted with roses, 
 thistles, and shamrocks, in squares, on a blue ground, and relieved 
 with gilding. The pavement is encaustic tiles, by Minton ; alleys of 
 black marble, including " Dieu et mon droit" in tiles, V. R., the lions 
 of England, &c.; and in the centre is a Tudor rose of Derbyshire 
 marbles, bordered with engraved brass. At each corner of the lobby 
 is a magnificent gas-standard, about 12 feet high. 
 
 THE HOUSE OF COMMONS is 75 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 41 feet 
 high; the size being as small as possible for speaking and hearing with- 
 out effort during the average attendance of Members, about 300. The 
 twelve side windows are painted with the arms of boroughs, by Hard- 
 man ; and at each end is a stone screen filled with brass tracery. The 
 ceiling has the sides and ends inclined, and the centre flat : it is divided 
 
606 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 by massive ribs into compartments, which are filled with ground-glass 
 tinted with the rose, portcullis, and floriated circles ; behind are 
 placed the gas-lights, with Faraday's patent ventilation, cutting off con- 
 nection between the gas and the air of the apartment, the vitiated air 
 being conveyed away by tubes into a chamber above the ceiling. The 
 floor of the House is of perforated cast-iron, covered with matting, 
 through which hot and cold air are admitted by machinery below. ' 
 It is impossible to burn the House down : you might set fire to and 
 destroy the furniture and fittings ; but the flooring, walls, and roof 
 would remain intact. The walls are paneled with oak two-thirds up, 
 carved with the linen-pattern, armorial shields, pendants, foliated mould- 
 ings, and brattishings. Upon three sides are galleries for Members and 
 Strangers; the Reporters' Gallery being at the north end, over the 
 Speaker's Chair, a sort of canopied throne elaborately carved with the 
 royal arms, &c. Behind the brass tracery above the Reporters' Gallery 
 is a gallery for ladies. At the northern end of the House is The Bar, 
 temporarily formed by sliding rods of brass; and here is the special seat 
 of the Sergeant -at-arms. The Ministerial seats are on the front bench 
 to the right of the Speaker, the leaders of the Opposition occupying the 
 front bench opposite. Below the Speaker's Chair is the Clerks' Table, 
 whereon, during the business of the House, is placed the Speaker's 
 Mace; not, as generally supposed, "the fool's bauble" which Cromwell ' 
 ordered to be taken away, but the mace made at the Restoration. ! 
 Along both sides of the House are the Division Lobbies, " Ayes" i 
 west, and "Noes" east; these being oak -paneled corridors, with 
 stained-glass windows : the chandeliers are of chased brass. 
 
 The Commons first assembled in their new House February 3, 1852; 
 eight days after which (February 11), Mr. Barry received knighthood. 
 
 The "Commons' Lobby is a rich apartment 45 feet square, and has on 
 each side an archway ; carved open screens inscribed " Domine salvara 
 fac Reginam;" and windows painted with the arms of parliamentary 
 boroughs: the brass gas-standards, by Hardman,are elaborately chased. 
 The doorways lead to the Library, the Post-office, Vote-paper Office, 
 Central Hall, &c. 
 
 The Libraries are fitted with dark oak ; and in the Peers' Libraries, 
 above the book-shelves, in panels, are emblazoned the arms of the Chief- 
 justices of England. 
 
 The Refreshment Rooms for the Peers and Commons are similarly 
 arranged, and respectively are divided by a carved oak screen. 
 
 In the whole building there are niches for receiving Statues as follows: in 
 Westminster Hall, 12; Royal Gallery, 106; Queen's Porch, 4; House of Lords, 
 18; St. Stephen's Hall, 12; Central Hall. 68; making 220 niches, 7 feet high. 
 The building and its quadrangles can accommodate 270 isolated monuments or 
 statues, and 400 murai monuments or tablets; or, in the whole, 670 monuments 
 of various kinds. 
 
 The public are admitted to view both Houses of Parliament, and all 
 the public portion of the New Palace of Westminster, every Saturday 
 between 10 and 4 o'clock, during the session, by tickets ; which are ob- 
 tainable on Saturdays, between 11 and 4 o'clock, at the Office of the 
 Lord Great Chamberlain, near the Victoria Tower. 
 
 Admission to hear the Debates: Lords A Peer's order; Com- 
 mons Any Member's, or the Speaker's, order. The House of Lords is 
 open to the public, without ticket, during the hearing of Appeals. 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW, 
 
 Between the north side of St. Paul's Churchyard and the south of 
 Newgate-street, is one of a knot of monastic localities; and is named 
 from the turners of rosaries, or Pater Nosters (or tenth-beads), dwelling 
 
. PATERNOSTER-ROW. 607 
 
 there, with stationers or text-writers, who wrote and sold ABC, 
 with the Pater Noster, Ave, Creed, Graces, &c., in the reign of Henry 
 IV. Hatton describes it " between Cheapside Conduit east, and Amen- 
 corner west ; and the name, as also those of Ave-Maria-lane (at its west 
 end), Creed-lane (in Ludgate-street, opposite), and Amen-corner, given 
 by reason of the religious houses formerly of Black and Gray Fryars, be- 
 tween which these streets are situated." Paternoster-row was next 
 "taken up" by mercers, silkmen, and lacemen : we read of Pepys, in 
 1660, buying here " moyre for a morning waistcoat;" and the street 
 was ofttimes blocked up with the coaches of the nobility and gentry. 
 After the Great Fire, the mercers mostly migrated westward, as to 
 Holy well-street and Covent Garden ; but in a periodical of 1707 we 
 read of " the sempstresses of Paternoster-row ;" and Strype, in 1720, 
 enumerates among its inhabitants tire-women, mercers, and silkmen. 
 Here lived Alderman Thomas, the mercer, whose shop bore the motto 
 of Sir William Turner, "Keep your shop, and your shop will keep 
 you." (Spectator, No. 509.) Strype also mentions, "at the upper end, 
 some stationers and large warehouses for booksellers;" but we find, as 
 earlv as 1564, that Henry Denham, bookseller, lived at the Star, in 
 Paternoster-row, with the motto, Os homini sublime dedit. In the 
 reign of Queen Anne the booksellers removed here from Little Britain; 
 and, from about 1774, the trade became changed to publishing books 
 in " Paternoster-row numbers." Among their publishers were Harri- 
 son, Cooke, and the Hoggs ; to the latter succeeded their shopman, 
 Thomas Kelly, Alderman of Farringdon Within, and Lord Mayor, 
 1836-7. 
 
 Here was the printing-office of Henry Sampson Woodfall, the 
 printer of the Public Advertiser, wherein appeared Junius's Letters. 
 Here, in 1823, was established " the Paternoster-row Press," by T. C. 
 Hansard, author of the elaborate Typographia, 1824. 
 
 At "the Bible and Crown" (the sign carved in wood, coloured and 
 igilt), lived the Rivingtons, the High-Church publishers, from 1710 to 
 1853: here they continued the Annual Register, originally Dodsley's, 
 with Edmund Burke as a contributor ; and here, in 1791, the Rivingtons 
 commenced the British Critic: but "the old shop," where Horsley 
 and Tomline, Warburton and Hurd, used to meet, was, in 1854, altered 
 to a " shawl emporium." 
 
 At No. 47 lived Robert Baldwin, publisher of the London Maga- 
 zine, commenced 1732. In Paternoster-row the Robinsons established 
 themselves about 1763; the head of the firm was "King of the Book- 
 sellers :" here they published the Annual Register, with a sale of 7000 
 copies each volume; and the unsatisfactory Biographical Dictionary, 
 by Alexander Chalmers. At No. 39 have lived more than a century 
 and a quarter the Longmans : the imprint of Thomas Longman, with 
 Thomas and John Osborne, at the sign of "the Ship and Black Swan," 
 is dated 1726. Here was commenced the original Cyclopcedia, by 
 lEphraim Chambers, upon which was based the New Cyclopcedia of 
 |Dr. Rees: for several years the firm gave here dinners and soirees to 
 authors and artists; and they have acquired world- wide repute as the 
 publishers of the works of Scott, Mackintosh, Southey, Sydney Smith, 
 Moore, and Macaulay. Messrs. Longman's own sale of books has 
 amounted to five millions of volumes in the year. 
 
 No. 56 is the Depot of the Religious Tract Society, erected in 1844, 
 at a cost of 12,000/. : the handsome stone frontage, of 120 feet, is in 
 the Italian style. The Society commenced operations, in 1799, with 
 a small handbill ; its annual distribution of books and tracts in 1853 
 was nearly 26 millions, and its gross income 9,497 1. 
 
 No. 50, the Chapter Coffee-house, noticed at page 201, was closed 
 
608 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in December 1853; baring been for a century and more the resort ol 
 authors, actors, and booksellers and politicians : the house is often re- 
 ferred to in the correspondence of Chatterton. 
 
 " A contemporary anecdote exhibits Goldsmith paymaster, at the Chaptei 
 Coffee-house, for Churchill's friend, Charles Lloyd, who, in his careless way 
 without a shilling to pay for the entertainment, had invited him to sup with sonn 
 friends of Grub-street.'' Forster's Life of Goldsmith, p. 232. 
 
 Between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street is Newgate Market 
 here, in 1709 ( Toiler, No. 44), was exhibited the Groaning Board: 
 
 " At the sign of the Woolsack, in Newgate Market, is to be seen a strange am 
 wonderful elm-board ; which being touched with a hot iron, doth express itsel 
 as if it were a man dying with groans, &c. It hath been presented to the kin| 
 and his nobles, and hath given great satisfaction." Advertisement. 
 
 Panier-alley, named from its having been the standing of bakers 
 boys with their paniers, when bread was only sold in markets, and no) 
 in shops or houses, is described at pp. 457 and 552. 
 
 At " the sign of the Castle," in Paternoster-row, Tarlton, Queer 
 Elizabeth's favourite stage-clown, kept an ordinary, stated to have 
 been on the site of Dolly's chop-house. "The Castle," of which j 
 token exists, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but was rebuilt ; am 
 here " the Castle Society of Music" gave their performances. The pre 
 raises were subsequently the Oxford Bible Warehouse, destroved b' 
 fire in 1822, and rebuilt. 
 
 There is likewise a Paternoster -row and Little Paternoster-row u 
 Spitalfields, where was formerly the Priory of St. Mary Spittle. 
 
 PAVEMENT. 
 
 Archaeologists have, by their excavations upon the site of the waller 
 London of the Romans, succeeded in reaching the very streets on whicl^ 
 they walked, and the floors of the houses in which they lived. Th| 
 general level of Roman London ranges from above fifteen to seventeen 
 feet under the present surface; thus showing an accumulation of about;! 
 foot in a century, gradually arising out of the mere occupancy and traffi^ 
 of a crowded population. "But there is no direct evidence of'the state o) 
 our metropolitan streets until the llth century. We have a kind o 
 negative proof that in 1090 Cheapside had a soft earthen roadway J 
 for the chroniclers relate that when St. Mary-le-bow was unroofed IH 
 a violent storm of wind, four beams, each 26 feet in length, sank s 
 deeply into the ground, that scarcely 4 feet appeared above the surface 
 
 The first toll for mending the highways is recorded to have bee 
 imposed in the reign of Edward III., for repairing the road between 
 St. Giles's and Temple Bar; and in 1315 writs were issued for tb> 
 repair of the pavement between Temple Bar and the Palace at West- 
 minster. In 1353 John de Bedeford was appointed commissioner fo 
 the paving of this road ; and it was ordained that the foot-pavement 
 patagium, adjoining to the dwellings on the line, should be newly lai 
 at the expense of the owners of the nearest houses. 
 
 The lower part of Holborn was paved in 1417, at the expense c 
 Henry V. ; but Stow records this street as ill-paved a century later 
 and High Oldburn, leading from the bars towards St. Giles's and Shoe 
 lane, Fetter-lane, and New-street or. Chan eery -lane, as also the wa 
 from Aldgate to Whitechapel Church, were paved by the grant c 
 St. John Baptist, 1542, as had been paved " the cawsey or highwa 
 leading from Strand Bridge to Charing Cross." (Stow.) Other part 
 were first paved in 1571 and 1605 ; and the great cattle-market of Smith 
 field was first paved in 1614. 
 
PENTONVILLE. 609 
 
 Gay, in his Trivia, thus describes the paving a century later : 
 
 " To pave thy realm, and smooth the broken ways, 
 Earth from her womb a flinty tribute pays; 
 For thee the sturdy pavior thumps the ground, 
 Whilst every stroke his labouring lungs resound. 
 * # * * 
 
 Does not each walker know the warning sign, 
 When wisps of straw depend upon the twine 
 'Cross the close street ; that then the paver's art 
 Reviews the ways, denied to coach and cart ?" 
 
 In 1762 was passed the Westminster Paving Act, when the footpaths 
 were widened and paved with broad flat stones ; but about this time 
 Goldsmith wrote, "in the midst of the pavements a great lazy puddle 
 moves muddily along." 
 
 Stone tramways for the wheels of heavy carriages to work on are laid 
 in the Commercial, East-India Dock, and Whitechapel roads. Little 
 change has been made in the foot-pavements, broad flags being still gene- 
 rally used; but the questionable relative merits of dressed granite, mac- 
 adamisation, bitumen, and wood, have led to a most heterogeneous 
 assemblage of road-pavements. Wood pavement was first experimen- 
 tally laid down by Finlayson, at Ayr, in 1800 ; and in 1835, Bradwell, the 
 machinist of Covent Garden Theatre, submitted to the City Paving 
 Commissioners a system of wood pavement, which was rejected. In 
 1839 the hexagonal blocks were first laid in London, by Stead, upon 
 the St. Petersburg plan ; since which the varieties of pavement baffle 
 enumeration : their slipperiness in wet weather appears insuperable. 
 
 Macadamised road (layers of small stones, so angular as to lock 
 
 together in a dry, hard, and compact mass,) has been much used, but 
 
 is costly. In 1827, macadamising the roadways of Regent -street, 
 
 1 (Whitehall, and Palace-yard cost 6000/., besides the value of the old 
 
 Ipavement taken up broken for that purpose, nearly 7000/. ; the repair- 
 
 ing, scraping, and watering in one year cost 4632/. " In Marylebone the 
 ' icost of macadamised road has been 2s. 4d. per square yard per annum; 
 ;' jyearly rental of wood, 2*. 3d. per yard ; and 60 miles of pavement have 
 : jcost the parish 15,OOOZ. per mile. In the evidence before the House of 
 
 iLords on the Westminster Improvement Bill, a paved road is stated to 
 have cost 10*. Wd. per yard in ten years, and a broken stone road 
 21. iOs. per yard in the same time. 
 
 Bitumen, or asphaltum, was first introduced for roads in 1837 ; and 
 1 in 1838 the east end of Oxford-street was laid with experimental pave- 
 ' inent of wood, in comparison with stone and bitumen, which led to the 
 
 - adoption of wood, often tested by the traffic of 7000 vehicles in 18 hours. 
 
 In certain streets we have adopted the Roman road as found at 
 ; IPompeii, of three distinct layers : lowest, stones mixed with cement ; 
 
 * middle, gravel or small stones ; to prepare an unyielding surface for 
 I the upper large masses accurately fitted together. But we have im- 
 -: broved upon the Roman system by dressing each stone, like the vous- 
 
 - ioir of an arch, so that the tier of stones spans the street like a bridge. 
 
 Foreign materials are sometimes used. Thus, the first mile of road 
 ! from Shoreditch towards Newington has been kept in substantial re- 
 : i pair by a supply of that " best of all road materials," the black por- 
 1 phyry-stone, brought from China as ballast in the tea-ships ; and the 
 j next half-mile has been repaired with granite from Bombay. 
 
 PENTONVILLE, 
 
 i A district of St. James's parish, Clerkenwell, west of Islington, and 
 
 M-i^inally a field of the Clerkenwell Nunnery. It was in part the estate 
 
 i ;>f Henry Penton, Esq. ; and when the New-road was formed through 
 
 K K 
 
610 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 it, White Conduit House, and the house attached to Dobney's Bowl- 
 ing-green, were almost the only buildings here. One of the earliest 
 was Hermes houses (in Hermes-street), built by Dr. de Valangin (a 
 pupil of Boerhaave), who lived to see Penton's ville or town rising 
 around him. Here lived William Huntington, S.S., when he married 
 the widow of Sir James Sanderson, Bart. (Lady Huntingdon). Upon 
 the north side of the New-road (Pentonville-hill) is St. James's Chapel, j 
 built 1788 : it has a clever altar-picture of Christ raising the damsel | 
 Tabitha. Below the chapel is the London Female Penitentiary, esta- 
 blished 1807. In Regent-terrace died the popular sporting writer, Pierce 
 Egan, in 1849, at the full age of 77 : and in Penton-place lived Gri- 
 maldi, " Old Joe," born in Stanhope-street, Clare Market, in 1778, the 
 year preceding that in which Garrick died. 
 
 PICCADILLY, 
 
 A leading street, 110 yards less than a mile in length, extends, in a line 
 with Coventry-street, from the north end of the Haymarket westward ) 
 to Hyde Park Corner. The name is derived from the ruffs, called j 
 " pickadils" or " peccadilloes," worn by the gallants of James I. and J 
 Charles I. ; and the stiffened points of which resembled spear-heads, j 
 or picardills, a diminutive of pica, Spanish and Italian. Blount, in his 
 Glussogr aphia (1656), interprets it as the round hem about the edge or 1 
 skirt of a garment, and a stiff collar or band for the neck and shoulders; 
 whence the wooden peccadilloes (the pillory) in Hudibras. Hence the 
 first house built in the road may have been named " from its being the 
 utmost or skirt house of the suburbs that way." Others say it took name 
 from this: "that one Biggins, a tailor, who built it, got most of his 
 estate by piccadillas." But the name occurs many years earlier than 
 the mention of the first house, or Piccadilly House : thus Gerard, in 
 his Herbal (1596), states that " the small wild bu-glosse growes upon 
 the drie ditch-bankes about Pickadilla." The road is referred to, in 
 Stow's narrative of Sir Thomas Wvatt's rebellion in 1554, as " the high- 
 way on the hill over against St. James's;" and in Aggas's Map (1560) 
 it is lettered, " The Wave to Redinge." The upper part of the Hay- 
 market, and the fields adjoining north and west, were the Pickadilly 
 of the Restoration. Evelyn quotes the Commissioners' orders, July 13, 
 1662, to pave " the Haymarket about Pigudello ;" and tradesmen's tokens 
 of this date bear " Pickadilla" and "Pickadilly." 
 
 Piccadilly Hall appears to have been built by one Robert Baker, in 
 "the fields behind the Mews," leased to him bv St. Martin's parish, and 
 sold by his widow to Colonel Panton, who built Panton-square and 
 Panton-street. Lord Clarendon, in his History of the Rebellion, speaks 
 of "Mr. Hyde going to a house called Piccadilly for entertainment 
 and gaming :" this house, with its gravel-walks and bowling-greens, 
 extended from the corner of Windmill-street and the site of Panton- 
 square, as shown in Porter and Faithorne's Map, 1658. Mr. Cunning- 
 ham found (see Handbook, 2d edit. p. 396), in the parish accounts of 
 St. Martin's, " Robte Backer, of Pickadilley Halle ;" and the receipts for 
 Lammas money paid for the premises as late as 1670. Sir John Suckling, 
 the poet, was one of the frequenters ; and Aubrey remembered Suck- 
 ling's " sisters coming to the Peccadillo bowling-green, crying, for the 
 feare he should lose all their portions." The house was taken down 
 about 1685 : a tennis-court in the rear remained to our time, upon the 
 site of the Argyll Rooms, Great Windmill-street. The Society of Anti- 
 quaries possess a printed proclamation (temp. Charles II. 1671) against 
 the increase of buildings in Windmill-fields and the fields adjoining 
 Soho ; and in the Plan of 1658, Great Windmill- street consists of strag- 
 
PICCADILLY. 611 
 
 gling houses, and a windmill in a field on the west side. The spacious 
 house upon the east side was built for Dr. William Hunter in 1770: it 
 had an amphitheatre and a magnificent museum (see page 539). He 
 died here March 30, 1783. At the north-east end of the Haymarket 
 stood the gaming-house built by the barber of the Earl of Pembroke, 
 and hence called Shaver's Hall : it is described by Garrard, in a letter 
 to Lord Stratford in 1635, as "a new Spring Gardens, erected in the 
 fields beyond the Mews :" its tennis-court remains in James-street. 
 
 From Piccadilly being applied to the Hall and the buildings in the 
 fields north and west of the Haymarket (in " Dogs-fields, Windmill- 
 fields, and the fields adjoining Soho,") early maps show it to have been 
 extended to the line of street to Swallow-street, where begins Portugal- 
 street, named after Catherine of Braganza, queen of Charles II. : in 
 an Act 3 James II. is named "the mansion-house of the Earl of Bur- 
 lington, fronting Portugal- street ;" but that it was considered a subor- 
 dinate street, is shown by Wren having made the principal front of St. 
 James's Church face Jermyn-street, with its handsome Ionic door. The 
 name of Piccadilly, however, became gradually extended to the whole 
 line. Hatton, 1708, describes Piccadilly as between Coventry-street and 
 the end of the Haymarket, and Portugal-street. Until 1721 the road 
 was mostly unpaved, and coaches were often overturned in the hollow. 
 The line from Devonshire House westward was, until the year 1740, 
 chiefly occupied by the figure-yards of statuaries, where also "number- 
 less wretched figures were manufactured in lead for gardens." * About 
 this time an adjoining field was bought by a brewer for his empty butts 
 at 30J., and sold in 1764 for 2500/. (Malcolm.) In 1757 a tract of ground 
 was leased to James Hamilton, Esq., who built thereon Hamilton- 
 place. Westward was " the Hercules Pillars," which, with other Picca- 
 dilly inns, is described at p. 400. In one of these petty taverns, at Hyde 
 Park Corner, Sir Richard Steele and the poet Savage dined together, after 
 having written a pamphlet, which Savage sold for two guineas, to enable 
 them to pay the reckoning. Among the straggling houses here was the 
 school kept by a Koman- Catholic convert named Deane, where Pope 
 spent nearly two years of his boyhood; and got up a play out of Homer, 
 the part of Ajax being performed by the gardener. 
 
 "Towards Hide Park" was Winstanley's mathematical water -theatre, 
 mentioned in the Taller, No. 74 (Sept. 29, 1709) : it had a windmill at 
 the top ; and the quantity of water used in the exhibition was from 
 200 to 300 tuns, "with which curious effects produced by hydraulic 
 pressure were exhibited in the evening." Evelyn speaks ofWinstan- 
 ley, who built the first Eddystone Lighthouse ; and of another mecha- 
 nical genius, Sir Samuel Moreland, who writes from his " hut near Hyde 
 Park Gate." 
 
 NORTH SIDE. APSLEY HOUSE, east of Hyde Park Gate, is described 
 at pp. 479-481. At No. 148, the Baron Lionel de Rothschild's, is a 
 valuable collection of Mediaeval Art and antique Pottery (see p. 548). 
 Next door lived William Beckford, the author of Vathek. No. 1 Hamil- 
 ton-place was built by Lord Chancellor Eldon ; and at No. 4 was col- 
 lected the Grenville Library, now in the British Museum. No. 140 
 Piccadilly was the last house which Lord Byron tenanted in England. 
 
 " Nobody needs to be told what a great wit and fine poet he (Lord Byron) was ; 
 but every body does not know that he was by nature a genial and generous man, 
 spoiled by the most untoward circumstances in early life." Leigh Hunt. 
 
 * East of Hertford House, "near the Queen's Mead House, in Hyde-Park- 
 road," was the leaden figure-yard established by John Van Nost, who came to 
 England with King William III. A favourite garden-figure was an African kneel- 
 ing with a sun-dial on his head, such as we see to this day in the garden of 
 Clement's Inn, but commonly said to have been brought from Italy by lord Clare i 
 
612 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 At No. 138 lived the Duke of Queensbury, " Old Q," the voluptuary 
 and millionaire, who died at the age of 86 : by aid of the hackney-coach 
 stand opposite the mansion, prurient idlers used to witness the nude 
 orgies in the duke's saloons. No. 137, GLOUCESTER HOUSE, is de- 
 scribed at page 487. Next is Park-lane, formerly Tyburn-lane. 
 
 Opposite, in the Green Park, was the Deputy Ranger's Lodge, built 
 by Robert Adam, 1768, taken down 1841 : the pair of graceful stags 
 upon the gate-piers, placed there by Lord William Gordon when de- 
 puty-ranger, were removed to the piers of Albert Gate, Hyde Park. 
 Opposite, at the corner of Down-street (leading to MAY FAIR, see 
 page 504), is the mansion of Mr. H. T. Hope, described at page 488 ; 
 and further east, No. 106, COVENTRY HOUSE (see p. 193), closed as a 
 club March 1854 ; No. 105, HERTFORD HOUSE, pae 488 ; No. 94, 
 CAMBRIDGE HOUSE, page 484; No. 82, BATH HOUSE, page 482; 
 DEVONSHIRE HOUSE, page 485.* 
 
 Half-moon-street was built in 1730, and was named from the Half- 
 moon ale-house at the corner. 
 
 Clarges-street was built 1717-8, and named from Sir Walter Clarges. 
 At the south-west corner is the mansion of the Duke of Grafton, de- 
 signed by Sir Robert Taylor : here is the magnificent Louvre portrait 
 of Charles I. on his horse, by Vandyke. At No. 12 Clarges-street 
 lived for eight years Edmund Kean, the tragedian, who kept in the 
 house a tame puma. Next door, at No. 11, lived Lady Hamilton at the 
 time of Lord Nelson's death. f 
 
 Bolton-street was in 1708 " the most westerly street in London, be- 
 tween the road to Knightsbridge south, and the fields north" (Hatton). 
 Here lived the Earl of Peterborough, who, in his autobiography (for- 
 tunately never printed), confesses having committed three capital 
 crimes before he was 20 years of age. 
 
 No. 80 Piccadilly was the house from which Sir Francis Burdett 
 was taken into custody, April 6, 1810, by the Sergeant-at-Arms, after a 
 resistance of four days : 
 
 " The lady she sate and she played on her lute, 
 
 And she sung, ' Will you come to the bower ?' 
 The serjeant-at-arms had stood hitherto mute, 
 And now he advanced, like an impudent brute, 
 And said, ' Will you come to the Tower ?' " 
 
 In the riot which ensued, the Life Guards charged the mob, whence they 
 were nicknamed " Piccadilly Butchers." 
 
 Stratton-street was named from the Stratton line of the Berkeleys, 
 on whose estate it was built. No. 1 was the mansion of Mrs. Coutts, 
 the widow of the rich banker, and afterwards Duchess of St. Albans, 
 " who brought back the dukedom to the point from which it set out 
 the stage" (Leigh Hunt). By her the mansion was bequeathed, with 
 her immense wealth, to Miss Angela Burdett Coutts, youngest daugh- 
 ter of Sir Francis Burdett, Bart. 
 
 * The ticket of admission to the performances of the Guild of Literature and 
 Art (first given at Devonshire House 1851), was designed by E. M. Ward, A.R.A. 
 On the left is Richard Wilson, the painter, with a picture under his arm, entering 
 a pawnbroker's shop. On the right is Daniel Defoe coming out of Edmund Curll's 
 shop, with the manuscript of Robinson Crusoe in his hand: his wife is inquiring 
 as to his success in selling the manuscript, and her little girl is standing in front. 
 In the centre foreground are grouped a palette, brushes, and books ; and at the top 
 is a kneeling child smelling a rose, and another pouring water into a rose-bud. 
 t In 1853 were added to the Mss. in the British Museum 63 autograph letters 
 of Lord Nelson, addressed to Lady Hamilton, from 1798 to 1805; including the 
 last letter Nelson ever wrote, found in his cabin, after the battle of Trafalgar, 21st 
 October, 1805, 
 
PICCADILLY. 613 
 
 Berkeley-street, built in 1642, and then the extremity of Piccadilly, 
 was named from Berkeley House, on the site of Devonshire House. 
 
 Dover-street was built about 1688, upon the estate of Henry Jermyn, 
 Lord Dover, who resided on the east side ; as did John Evelyn, who had 
 been " oftentimes so cheerful, and sometimes so sad, with Chancellor 
 Hyde" on that very ground. On the west side lived Dr. John Arbuth- 
 not, physician to Queen Anne, "Martinus Scriblerus," and the friend 
 of Pope, Swift, Gay, and Prior. No. 37, sculptured with a mitre, is the 
 town-house of the Bishop of Ely. At No. 38 lived Lord King, who 
 wrote a life of his profound kinsman, John Locke ; published 1829. 
 
 Albemarle- street was built by Sir Thomas Bond on part of the site of 
 Clarendon House. In 1708 it was " a street of excellent new buildings* 
 inhabited by persons of quality, between the fields and Portugal-street." 
 
 " The earliest date now to be found upon the site of Clarendon House is cut in 
 Stone, and let into the south wall of a public-house, the sign of ' The Duke of 
 Albemarle,' in Dover-street, thus: 'This is Stafford-street, 1686.' In a plan of 
 London etched by Hollar, in Ifi86, it is evident that the centre of Clarendon House 
 must have occupied the whole of the site of Stafford-street." Smith's Streets. 
 
 Clarendon House was commenced by Lord Chancellor Clarendon in 
 1664, " encouraged thereto by the royal grant of land, by the oppor- 
 tunity of purchasing the stones which had been designed for the repairs 
 of St. Paul's, and by that passion for building to which he was naturally 
 too much inclined." (Evelyn.) About the same time, Lord Berkeley 
 began to build Berkeley House on the west ; and Sir John Denham, 
 Burlington House on the east. During the war and the plague year, 
 Clarendon employed about 300 workmen, which raised a great outcry 
 against him: "some called it 'Dunkirk House,' intimating that it was 
 built by his share of the price of Dunkirk : others called it ' Holland 
 House,' because he was believed to be no friend to the war ; so it was 
 given out that he had the money from the Dutch. It was visible that in 
 a time of public calamity he was building a very noble palace." (Burnet.) 
 Pepys records that some rude people, in 1667, " had been at my Lord 
 Chancellor's, where they cut down the trees before his house and broke 
 his windows ; and a gibbet either set up before or painted upon his 
 gate, and these words writ : * Three sights to be seen Dunkirk, Tan- 
 j gier, and a barren queen.' " He was lampooned also in one of the " State 
 
 The day before his 
 at his new-built 
 
 palace, sitting in his gowt wheele-chayre, and seeing the gates setting 
 up towards the north and the fields. He looked and spake very discon- 
 solately. Next morning I heard he was gone." Evelyn, dining at 
 Clarendon House with the Lord Chancellor's eldest son, Lord Corn- 
 bury, after his father's flight, describes the mansion as " now bravely 
 furnished, especially with the pictures of most of our English and mo- 
 dern wits, poets, philosophers, famous and learned Englishmen ;" most 
 of these pictures have been brought from Cornbury, a seat of the Earls 
 of Clarendon, Oxon, to the Grove, Watford, Herts. 
 
 Clarendon House was subsequently let to the great Duke of Or- 
 mond. After Lord Clarendon's death in exile, it was sold, in 1675, for 
 26,OOOZ. to the young Duke of Albemarle, who soon parted with it to 
 Sir Thomas Bond, by whom the mansion was taken down, and Bond- 
 street and Albemarle-buildings (now street] and Stafford- street were 
 built upon the site. A map in the Crowle Pennant shows the extrance- 
 
 josite St. 
 
 ? Bruton- 
 
 Poems," entitled " Clarendon's House-warming." 1 
 lordship's flight, Evelyn " found him in his garden 
 
 JPPWM llpv_Ml LUC aiLC, XX llUtp III tIJC V-/1UW1C J. CllDcUJt SI1U W 3 LUC C- 1 
 
 gate to the courtyard to have been in Piccadilly, directly opp( 
 James's-street ; and the grounds to have extended to the site of] 
 street. Two Corinthian pilasters at the Three Kings inn gateway, No. 
 75, in Piccadilly, are believed to have belonged to Clarendon Hous/; 
 
614 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and the name is preserved in the Clarendon /TofeZ, built upon a portion 
 of the gardens between Albemarle and Bond streets. 
 
 " All the waste ground at the upper end of Alhemarle and Pover streets 5s 
 purchased by the Duke of Grafton and the Earl of Gramham, for gardening ; and 
 the road there leading to May Fair is ordered to be turned." The British Journal, 
 March 30, 1723. (This purchase is commemorated in Gra/ton-street.) 
 
 In Albemarle-street, at an apothecary's, lodged Dr. Berkeley when 
 he was made Dean of Derry. Richard Glover, the merchant-poet, who 
 wrote "Leonidas" and "Admiral Hosier's Ghost," died here in 1785. On 
 the east side is the Royal Institution ; the columnar facade by L. Vulliamy, 
 1838, adapted from the remains of Mars Ultor and Jupiter Stator, and 
 the Pantheon at Rome. No. 23 is the ALFRED CLUB-HOUSE (see p. 189). 
 At No. 50, since 1812, have lived John Murray, father and son, pub- 
 lishers; the former, "the friend and publisheV of Lord Byron," died' 
 1843. Opposite is Grillion's Hotel, where Louis XVIII. sojourned in, 
 1814 : here and at the Clarendon were held the Roxburghe Club Dinners. 
 
 Bond-street was commenced in 1686 by Sir Thomas Bond, Bart. 
 Comptroller of the Household to Queen Henrietta- Maria. "Bond- 
 street loungers, who pass from 2 till 5 o'clock," are mentioned in the 
 Weekly Journal, June 1, 1717. At No. 41, " at the Silk-Bag Shop," 
 died, March 18, 1786, Laurence Sterne, broken-hearted, neglected, and 
 in debt. Some of the most touching scenes in Tom Jones are laid 
 at Mr. Allworthy's lodgings in Bond -street. Here lodged James 
 Boswell when he gave a dinner to Johnson, Goldsmith, Reynolds, and 
 Garrick. No. 27, Ebers, the librarian, who in seven years lost 44,080?. 
 by the Italian Opera-house, Haymarket. No. 10 has a large billiard- 
 room, painted 1850 in encaustic by E. F. Lambert, with panels bordered 
 with arabesques; the principal subjects being Bacchu? and Ariadne, 
 Hebe, " Willie brew'd a peck o' maut," " Let me the cannikin clink," and 
 the "Wassail bowl." The tasteful house-front, No. 21, was designed 
 by the Inwoods, architects of St. Pancras' Church, New-road. 
 
 Burlington Gardens, originally "Ten- Acres Fields," extend from 
 Bond-street to Swallow-street: here is UXBRIDGE HOUSE, noticed at 
 page 495 : here died, April 29, 1854, Field-Marshal the Marquis of 
 Anglesey, K. G., aged 86. In Cork-street the Earl of Burlington built 
 for Field-Marshal Wade a house with a beautiful front, ill-contrived 
 inside to suit a large cartoon by Rubens, but in vain : "Lord Chester- 
 field said that to be sure he (the marshal) could not live in it, but 
 intended to take the house over against it, to look at it" ( Walpole). 
 
 At the south-east corner of Graf ton- street was the book-shop of 
 Benjamin Tabart, who published so many pretty picture-books for 
 children. At the corner of Clifford- street was the Clifford-street Club 
 (see page 201). 
 
 Neio Bond-street site was in 1700 an open field called Conduit-mead, 
 from the Conduit there : hence Conduit-street. In New Bond-street, 
 at No. 141, Lord Nelson lodged in 1797. At No. 21 was exhibited, in 
 1831, "Napoleon at St. Helena," painted by Haydon for Sir Robert 
 Peel, and upon which Wordsworth wrote his memorable sonnet. 
 
 In Piccadilly, east of Old Bond-street, is the BURLINGTON ARCADE 
 (see p. 17), and BURLINGTON HOUSE* (see p. 483). No. 52, adjoin- 
 ing, is the Albany Chambers, let in suites to single gentlemen. The 
 centre, designed by Sir William Chambers, was sold in 1770, by Lord 
 Holland, to the first Viscount Melbourne, who exchanged it with the 
 Duke of York for Melbourne now Dover House, Whitehall. In 1804 
 the mansion in Piccadilly was altered and enlarged, and first let in 
 chambers, named Albany from the second title of the Duke of York. 
 
 * Purchased by Government, in 1854, for H0,000/. 
 
PICCADILLY. 615 
 
 The ceilings of the mansion were painted for Lord Melbourne by 
 Cipriani, Wheatley, and Rebecca. In chambers here have lived George 
 Canning, M. G. (Monk) Lewis, Lord Byron, Sir E. L. Bulwer, Mr. 
 Macaulay, and Lord John Manners. Upon the site were originally the 
 houses of the Earl of Sunderland, Sir John Clarges, and Lady Stan- 
 hope, with gardens reaching to Vigo-lane. 
 
 Sackville- street is the longest street in London without a turning : 
 at the corner house, east, opposite St. James's Church, died Sir William 
 Petty, the earliest writer on the science of political economy in Eng- 
 land, and ancestor of the Lansdowne family : a letter from Sir William 
 Petty to Pepys is dated Piccadilly, September 1687. The Dilettanti 
 Club met at " The Prince," in this street, in 1783. 
 
 Swallow-street is named from " Swallow Close," part of the crown 
 lands granted to Lord Chancellor Clarendon : here is the oldest Scot- 
 tish Episcopal church in the metropolis. Swallow-street originally 
 extended northward to Tyburn-road, from the centre of the present 
 line of Regent-street. 
 
 Ayr or Air street was in 1659 the most westerly street. 
 
 SOUTH SIDE. Hyde Park Corner turnpike - gate was removed in 
 
 1825. The long dead wall of the Park (now open railing) was hung 
 with ballads ; here robberies after dark were frequent. 
 
 Arlington-street, " a very graceful and pleasant street" (ffatton, 
 1708), was built upon the property of Henry Bennet,Earl of Arlington, 
 about 1689 : hence, also, Sennet-street, In Arlington-street lived the 
 Duchess of Cleveland, after the death of Charles II.; Lady Mary 
 Wortley Montague, before her marriage ; William Pulteney, Earl of 
 Bath, on the west side, next door to Sir Robert Walpole, where was 
 born Horace Walpole, who wrote in 1768, " From my earliest memory, 
 Arlington-street has been the ministerial street ;" in 1750 he records 
 a highwayman attacking a postchaise in Piccadilly, at 11 o'clock on a 
 Sunday night, and escaping. Upon the site of Walpole's house Kent 
 built No. 17, for Pelham the minister, the house now the Earl of Yar- 
 borough's. Lord Nelson lodged in this street in 1800-1, when Lady 
 Nelson separated from him. At No. 16 (the Duke of Rutland's) the 
 Duke of York, second son of George III., lay sick, from August 26, 
 
 1826, to his death, Jan. 5, 1827, as touchingly narrated by Sir Herbert 
 Taylor. No. 26, BEAUFORT HOUSE, is described at page 482 ; in 1854: 
 the mansion was sold to the Duke of Hamilton. The houses on the 
 west side of the street command a charming view of the Green Park. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S-STREET is described at page 423. 
 
 No. 160 Piccadilly is the entrance to the Wellington Dining House 
 (late Crockford's Club). The EGYPTIAN HALL is described at pp. 266-8. 
 
 At No. 169, Wright, the publisher of the Anti-Jacobin, kept shop, 
 which was the resort of the friends of the Ministry, as Debrett's was 
 of the Opposition. In a first-floor met the editors of the Anti- Jacobin, 
 including Canning, Frere, and Pitt; with Gifford as working editor, 
 and Upcott (Wright's assistant) as amanuensis. (See Notes and Queries; 
 and Poetry of the Anti- Jacobin, new edition, 1854.) In Wright's shop, 
 Peter Pindar (Wolcot) was castigated by Gifford. No. 177 was the 
 shop of William Pickering, the emraent publisher, whose title-pages 
 bear the Aldine anchor : his valuable stock of old books, rare works on 
 angling, modern copyrights and reprints, was dispersed in 1854. 
 No. 182 (Fortnum and Mason's) is designed from a mansion at Padua. 
 ST. JAMES'S CHURCH is described at page 131; the MUSEUM OF 
 PRACTICAL GEOLOGY at page 537. In the Inventory of Rich's Thea- 
 trical Properties ( Tatler, July 16, 1709) is " Aurungzebe's scymitar, 
 made by Will Brown in Piccadilly." Regent Circus (see REGENT- 
 STREET). 
 
616 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 PIMLICO, 
 
 A name of gardens of public entertainment, often mentioned by our 
 early dramatists, and in this respect resembling " Spring Garden." 
 In a rare tract, Neices from Hogsdon, 1598 : " Have at thee, then, my 
 merrie boys, and hey for old Ben Pimlico's nut-browne !" and the place, 
 in or nea/Hoxton, was afterwards named from him. Ben Jonson has, 
 
 " A second Hogsden, 
 In days of Pimlico and eye-bright." The Alchemist. 
 
 " Pimlico-path " is a gay resort of his Bartholomew Fair; and Meer- 
 craft, in The Devil is an Ass, says : 
 
 " I'll have thee, Captain Gilthead, and march up 
 And take in Pimlico, and kill the bush 
 At every tavern." 
 
 In 1609 was printed a tract entitled Pimlyco, or Prince Red Cap t 
 'tis a Mad World at Hogsden. Sir Lionel Rash, in Greene's Tit 
 Quogue, sends his daughter " as far as Pimlico for a draught of Derby 
 ale, that it may bring colour into her cheeks." Massinger mentions, ' 
 
 " Eating pudding- pies on a Sunday, 
 At Pimlico or Islington." City Madam. 
 
 Aubrey, in his Surrey, speaks of " a Pimlico Garden on Bankside." 
 
 PIMLICO, the district between Knightsbridge and the Thames, and 
 St. James's Park and Chelsea, was noted for its public gardens : as the ' 
 Mulberry Garden, now part of the site of Buckingham Palace; the 
 Dwarf Tavern and Gardens, afterwards Spring Gardens, between 
 Ebury-street and Belgrave-terrace ; the Star and Garter, at the end of 
 Five-Fields-row, famous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dancing; 
 and the Orange, upon the site of St. Barnabas' church. Here, too, were 
 Ranelagh and New Ranelagh. But the largest garden in Pimlico was 
 Jenny's Whim, to the left of the road over Ebury (late the Wooden) 
 Bridge, formerly Jenny's Whim Bridge. The site is now covered by 
 St. George's-row, but a portion of the tavern remains; it was opened 
 temp. George I. for fireworks, and in its grounds were a pond for 
 duck-hunting, garden-plots, alcoves, and grotesque figures : it was a 
 summer resort of the upper classes; and a tract of 1755 is entitled 
 " Jenny's Whim, or a sure Guide to the Nobility, Gentry," &c. In 
 later years it was frequented by crowds from bull-baiting in the ad- 
 joining fields. Among the existing old signs are, the Bag o' Nails, 
 Arabella-row, from Ben Jonson's " Bacchanals ;" the Compasses, of 
 Cromwell's time (near Grosvenor-row) ; and the Gun Tavern and Tea- 
 gardens, Queen's-row, with its arbours and costume figures. Pimlico 
 is still noted for its ale-breweries. 
 
 Upon the verge of St. James's Park were Tart Hall (see page 421), 
 and Arlington and Buckingham House (see page 566). 
 
 So late as 1763, Buckingham House enjoyed an uninterrupted prospect south 
 and west to the river, there being only a few scattered cottages, and the Stag 
 Brewery, between it and the Thames. W. Bardwell. 
 
 Pimlico contains the Selgrave district, including Belgrave, Eaton, 
 and Chester Squares (see page 37), and the Grosvenor-road ; beyond 
 which the Eccleston sub-district of new squares, terraces, and streets, 
 extends to the Thames. Here are two churches in the Early Decorated 
 style: Holy Trinity, close to Vauxhall Bridge (see p. 130); and St. Ga- 
 briel's, War wick -square, with a spire 160 feet high ; consecrated 1853. 
 
 Ebury Street and Square are named from Ebury Farm, 430 acres 
 (lammas land), leased by Queeu Elizabeth at 21//per annum. The 
 
PLAGUE (THE GREAT). 617 
 
 I Chelsea Water-works were first constructed in 1724, at Pimlico, by a 
 canal being dug from the Thames near Ranelagh. 
 
 In Lower Belgrave-place, corner of Eccleston-street, Sir Francis 
 Chantrey, R.A., lived 27 years, and executed his finest busts, statues, 
 and monuments: he died here Nov. 25, 1841. Next door but one, at 
 No 27, lived Allan Cunningham, the poet, and foreman to Chantrey. 
 
 In Stafford-row died, in 1796, Richard Yates, the celebrated comedian, and 
 teacher of acting, aged 89. He was found dead through disappointment of a din- 
 ner of hash, which he ordered of his housekeeper, but which she failed to provide. 
 
 Pimlico is also the name of a place near Clitheroe, in Lancashire; 
 Lord Orrery (in his Letters) mentions " Pemlicoe, Dublin :" and 
 " Pemlico" is the name of a bird of Barbadoes, " which presageth 
 storms." Notes and Queries, Nos. 29, 31, and 125. 
 
 PLAGUE (THE GREAT). 
 
 London has frequently suffered from the ravages of pestilence ; and 
 thousands and tens of thousands of the inhabitants have been swept by 
 its virulence into one common grave. But at no period of its history 
 was the mortality so devastating as in the year 1665, the " last great 
 visitation," as it is emphatically entitled by De Foe in his Journal of 
 the Plague Year. This work was originally published in 1722: now 
 as De Foe was only two years of age when the Great Pestilence oc- 
 curred, his Journal was long considered as much a work of imagina- 
 tion as his Robinson Crusoe; but there is abundant evidence of his 
 having compiled the Journal from contemporary sources, (as the Collec- 
 tion of all the Bills of Mortality for 1665, published as London' s Dread- 
 ful Visitation; the Loimologia of Dr. Hodges; and God's Terrible 
 Voice in the. City, by the Rev. Thomas Vincent, 1667) ; and many of the 
 events which De Foe records derive collateral support from "the re- 
 spective Diaries of Pepys, Evelyn, and Lord Clarendon, works which 
 were not published until very long after Defoe's decease, and the manu- 
 scripts of which he could never have perused. De Foe is believed to 
 have been familiar with the manuscript Account of the Great Plague 
 by William Boghurst, a medical practitioner, formerly in the Sloane 
 Collection, and now preserved in the British Museum: it is a thin 
 | quarto manuscript of 170 pages, from which only a few extracts have 
 j been published. Boghurst was an apothecary in St. Giles's-5n-the- 
 Fields ; and he states that he was the only person who had then (1666) 
 | written on the late Plague from experience and observation. Rapin 
 j and Hume have recorded the event in little more than a single sentence; 
 I but Dr. Lingard has grouped the details of De Foe's Journal into a ter- 
 rific picture, which has been compared to the celebrated delineation of 
 the Plague of Athens by Thucydides. 
 
 The Great Plague was imported, in December 1664, by goods from 
 ! Holland, where, in Amsterdam alone, 20,000 persons had been carried 
 j off by the same infection within a short time. The infected goods were 
 j opened at a house in St. Giles's parish, near the upper end of Drury- 
 ! lane, wherein died four persons; and the parish books record of 
 this period the appointment of searchers, shutting up of infected 
 I houses, and contributions by assessment and subscription. A French- 
 j man, who lived near the infected house in Drury-lane, removed into 
 \ Bear-binder-lane (leading to St. Swithin's-lane), where he died, and 
 i thus spread the distemper in the City. Between December and the en- 
 suing April the deaths without the walls of the City greatly increased, 
 and in May every street in St. Giles's was infected. In July, in Au- 
 Igust, and September the deaths ranged from 1000 to 7000 per week; 
 and 4000 are stated to have died in one fatal night! In the latter 
 
618 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 month fires were burnt in the streets three nights and days, " to purge 
 and purify the air." 
 
 "St. James's Park was quite locked up;" and, July 22: "I by coach home, 
 not meeting with but two coaches and but two carts, from White Hall to my 
 own house, that I could observe ; and the streets mighty thin of people." Pepys. 
 
 " June 7th. The hottest day that ever I felt in my life. This day, much 
 against my will, I did in Drury-lane see two or three houses marked with a red 
 cross upon the doors, and ' Lord have mercy upon us !' writ there." Pepys. 
 
 " Sept. 7. I went all along the City and suburbs, from Kent-street to St. 
 James's, a dismal passage, and dangerous, to see so many coffins exposed in the 
 streets, now thin of people ; the shops shut up, and all in mournful silence, at. 
 not knowing whose turn it might be next." Evelyn. 
 
 "Within the walls, 
 
 The most frequented once and noisy parts 
 Of town, now midnight silence reigns e'en there : 
 A midnight silence at the noon of day! 
 And grass, untrodden, springs beneath the feet. 1 ' Dryden. 
 
 The Court removed from "Whitehall to Hampton Court, and thence 
 to Salisbury and Oxford ; and the Londoners leaving their city, carried 
 the infection into the country ; so that it spread, towards the end of 
 this and the following year, over a great part of England. The Plague 
 gradually abated in the metropolis ; but it was not until Nov. 20, 1666,' 
 that public thanksgivings were offered up to God for assuaging the, 
 pestilence in London, Westminster, and within the bills of mortality,) 
 There were reported dead of the Plague in 1664-5, 68,596 ; probably, 
 less by one-third than the actual number. 
 
 Among the Plague medicines were Pill Rufus and Venice treacle. 
 Another antidote was sack. Tobacco was used as a prophylactic ; and 
 amulets were worn against infection. Among many touching episodes, 
 of the Plague, is that of a blind Highland bagpiper," who having fallen 
 asleep upon the steps of St. Andrew's Church, Holborn-hill, was con- 
 veyed away in the dead-cart ; and but for the howling of his faithful 
 dog, which waked him from his trance, he would have been buried as 
 a corpse. Of the piper and his dog a group was sculptured by Caius 
 Gabriel Cibber : it was long after purchased by John the great Duke 
 of Argyll, subsequently to whose death it for many years occupied a site 
 in a garden in the front of No. 178 Tottenham-Court-road, whence 
 it disappeared about 1825. (See London Magazine, April 1820.) 
 
 Another episode is that of a grocer in Wood-street, Cheapside, who 
 shut himself up with his family, with a store of provisions, his only 
 communication being by a wicket made in the door, and a rope and 
 pulley to draw up or let any thing down into the street ; and thus they 
 escaped infection. 
 
 In the Intelligencer, No. 51, appeared the following advertisement: 
 
 " This is to notify that the master of the Cock and Bottle, com- 
 monly called the Cock Alehouse, at Temple Bar, hath dismissed his 
 servants and shut up his house for this long vacation, intending (God 
 willing) to return at Michaelmas next ; so that all persons whatsoever 
 who have any accompts with the said master, or farthings belonging to 
 the said house, are desired to repair thither before the 8th of this in- 
 stant July, and they shall receive satisfaction." One of these farthings 
 is still preserved at the Cock tavern. 
 
 " No one can take up the book (Defoe's) without believing that it is the sad- 
 dler of Whitechapel who is telling his own story; that he was an eye-witness to 
 all he relates : that he actually saw the blazing star which portended the cala- 
 mity ; that he witnessed the grass growing in the streets, read the inscriptions 
 upon the doors of the infected houses; heard the bellman crying, 'Bring out 
 your dead!' saw the dead-carts conveying people to their graves, and was pre- 
 sent at the digging of the pits in which they were deposited." Wilson's Life and 
 Times of Defoe. 
 
POLICE. 
 
 G19 
 
 Forty years before, Evelyn records 1625 as "the year in which the 
 pestilence was so epidemical, that there dy'd in London 5000 a week." 
 In another great Plague year, 1603, there died 30,561 : 
 " London now smokes with vapors that arise 
 
 From his foule sweat, himselfe he so bestirres : 
 ' Cast out your dead !' the carcase-carrier cries, 
 Which he by heapes in groundlesse graves interres. 
 
 The London lanes (thereby themselves to save) 
 
 Did vomit out their undigested dead, 
 Who by cart-loads are carried to the grave ; 
 
 For all these lanes with folke were overfed. 
 
 x- * * * 
 
 Time never knew, since he begunne his houres 
 (For aught we reade), a plague so long remaine 
 
 In any citie as this plague of ours ; 
 For now six yeares in London it hath laine." 
 
 The Triumph of Death, by John Davies, 1609. 
 
 POLICE. 
 
 The original Police of the metropolis (which, until the commence- 
 ment of the last century, comprised only the " City and liberties," with 
 "Westminster) consisted of the aldermen, deputy-aldermen, common- 
 councilmen, ward -clerk, ward -bedell, inquestmen or leet jury, and 
 constables of the several wards, who were formerly themselves the 
 night-watchmen by rotation, of Englishmen, for no stranger was 
 allowed to discharge so responsible an office : the ward, with its pre- 
 cincts, being no other than the highest development of the Anglo-Saxon 
 hundred with its tithings. We find this form of Police to have existed 
 jfrom the earliest settlement of the valley of the Thames by a northern 
 Ination ; and to have continued in use, as the type and model for the 
 rest of the realm, until the institution of the present Police. 
 
 The few officers of central police in the City, the upper-marshal, 
 (the under-marshal, and the marshalmen, under whom was organised, 
 jat a very modern date, a subordinate force of sixty-eight men, were in 
 ilike manner the type of the Bow-street and other police attached to 
 ithe several magistrates' offices established in the outlying portions of 
 ;the metropolis so recently as the close of the last century. 
 
 In the metropolitan parishes without the City, the watch was chiefly 
 tinder local acts ; the establishment in each consisting of a beadle, con- 
 stables, and generally headboroughs, street-keepers, and watchmen, as 
 in the several wards of the City, but working to a result much worse: 
 the petty constables being served by deputies, in many instances cha- 
 racters of the worst and lowest description ; having no salary, but 
 living by extortion, and countenancing all species of vice. 
 
 To abolish such a system, Sir Robert Peel's Metropolitan Police Act 
 of the 10th of George IV. c. 44, was passed, superseding the Bow-street 
 foot-patrol, and the whole of the parochial police and watch outside 
 the City, by one force both for day and night duty ; in the sole appoint- 
 ment, order, and superintendence of two Commissioners, acting under 
 the responsibility of the Secretary of State for the Home Department.* 
 
 " This great living machine keeps guard over our metropolis, with its 
 ten millions of rateable property, and watches at night in order that two 
 
 * The late Vincent George Bowling claimed to be the originator of the plan 
 on which this new police system was organised : even the names of the officers 
 inspector, sergeant, &c. were published in Bell's Life in London (of which news- 
 paper Bowling was editor) nearly two years before the system was proposed by 
 Sir Robert Peel. Mr. T. Buffus Hardy' contributed, from documents in the Re- 
 cord Office, important information to Sir Robert Peel on the ancient police ar- 
 rangements of London. 
 
620 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 millions and a half of people may sleep in safety; although six thousand 
 professional thieves are constantly on the watch for opportunities to 
 plunder. It consists, besides the two Commissioners, of 1 chief super- ' 
 intendent, 18 superintendents, 127 inspectors, 613 sergeants, and 4812 
 constables, in all 5571 persons. About 3700 men are on duty all night, 
 and about 1800 all day. During the night they never cease patrolling 
 the whole time they are on duty, being forbidden even to sit down. 
 The Police District is mapped out into divisions, the divisions into sub- 
 divisions, the sub-divisions into sections, and the sections into beats, all 
 being numbered, and the limits carefully denned. To every beat cer- 
 tain constables are specifically assigned; and they are provided with little 
 maps called beat-cards. So thoroughly has this arrangement been car- 
 ried into effect, that every street, road, lane, alley, and court within 
 the metropolitan district, that is, the whole of the metropolis (except 
 that small part the City of London), the county of Middlesex, and all 
 the parishes, 218 in number, in the counties of Surrey, Kent, Essex, and 
 Hertfordshire, which are not more than 15 miles from Charing Cross, 
 comprising an area of about 700 square miles, 90 miles in circum- 
 ference, and with a population of 2.500,000, is visited constantly day 
 and night by some of the police. Within a circle of six miles from St. 
 Paul's, the beats are ordinarily traversed in periods varying from 70 to 
 25 minutes; and there are points which, in fact, are never free from in- 
 spection. Nor must it be supposed that this system places the wealthier 
 localities at a disadvantage; for it is an axiom in police, that you guard 
 St. James's by watching St. Giles's. 
 
 " The district is divided into 18 divisions, containing, including the 
 Thames, upwards of 121 police stands or stations. Intelligence is con- 
 veyed from one constable to the other till it reaches the station-house; 
 thence, by an admirable arrangement of routes and messengers, it 
 passes to the Central Office at Whitehall, thence along radiating lines 
 to each division, and from the divisional station-house to every con- 
 stable in the district. In a case of emergency, the Commissioner could 
 communicate intelligence to every man in the force, and collect the 
 whole 5571 men in one place, in two hours. The power of rapid con- 
 centration has worked so effectually, that since the establishment of the 
 Metropolitan Police, it has never been found necessary to call the mili- 
 tary into actual operation in aid of the civil force. " Nor can clearer 
 proof be given of perfect discipline, than the fact that 5000 men in the 
 prime and vigour of life, with moderate wages, 2s. 5d. to 3*. per day, 
 exposed in an unusual degree to the worst temptations of London, 
 and discharging, for the most part during the night, a very laborious 
 duty, always irksome and often dangerous, are kept in complete control 
 without any extraordinary coercive power." Edinburgh Review. 
 
 Each police-constable has to walk 20 miles every day in his rounds, 
 besides attending the police-offices, equal to 5 miles more. During two 
 months out of three, each constable is on duty nine hours each night. 
 
 In one year (1839) the number of persons taken into custody by the 
 Metropolitan Police has equalled the whole population of one of our 
 largest towns ; or, 65,965 persons, nearly equal to the population of 
 Sheffield. 
 
 The cost of the Metropolitan Police Force in 1853 was 373,9681. 
 11*. 10<., raised from the parishes in the district and the Consolidated 
 Fund. The charges for " truncheons, rattles, belts, and swords," was 
 291. 9s. Sd. The expenses of the Police Courts during the year was 
 45,050*. 8s. 8d. ; including the salary of one magistrate at 12001. per 
 annum, and 22 other magistrates at 1000Z. per annum each. 
 
 The Corporation are allowed to have their own Police and their 
 own Commissioner in the heart of the metropolis. The ordering of the 
 
POPULATION. 621 
 
 force is vested in the Commissioner, subject to the approbation of the 
 mayor and aldermen, or any three of them, and also of the Secretary of 
 State for the Home Department. The number of men is about 600. 
 
 The Horse Patrol was added in 1836 ; and the Thames Police, with 
 the Westminster Constabulary and the Police-office Agency, in 1838, 
 when the old detective force was superseded. 
 
 Before the establishment of the Thames Police, hy Mr. R. Colquhoun, the 
 annual loss by robberies alone up.m the river was half a million sterling; the 
 depredators being termed river-pirates, light and heavy horsemen, mud-larks, 
 cope-men, scuffle-hunters. They were frequently known to weigh a ship's anchor, 
 hoist it with the cable into a boat, and when discovered, to hail the captain, 
 tell him of his loss, and row away. They also cut craft and lighters adrift, ran 
 them ashore, and cleared them. Many of the light-horsemen cleared five guineas 
 a night ; and an apprentice to a game- waterman often kept his country-house and 
 saddle-horse. In 1797, the first year of the Police, the saving to the West India 
 merchants alone was computed at 100,0002.; and 2200 culprits were convicted of 
 misdemeanours on the river during the same period. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 Taperell and Innes's Map of London and "Westminster in the early 
 part of the reign of Queen Elizabeth (1560), based upon Vertue's Map, 
 1737, shows on the east the Tower, standing separated from Lon- 
 don, and Finsbury and Spitalfields with their trees and hedge-rows; 
 while on the west of Temple Bar, the villages of Charing, St. Giles's, 
 and other scattered hamlets are aggregated, and Westminster is a 
 distinct city. The intervening north bank of the river Thames, or the 
 Strand, has a line of seats and gardens of the nobility. At the date of 
 this map London contained about 145,000 inhabitants. In the narrative 
 of the visit of the Duke de Nay era to the Court of Henry VIII. in 
 1543, London is described as one of the largest cities in Christendom, 
 "its extent being near a league." 
 
 Sir William Petty, in his Political Arithmetic, printed in 1683, after 
 much study of statistical returns and bills of mortality, demonstrates 
 that the growth of the metropolis must stop of its own accord before 
 the year of grace 1800; at which period the population would, by his 
 computation, have arrived at exactly 5,359,000. Nay more, were it 
 not for this halt, he shows that the increase would double in forty 
 years, with a slightly accelerating increment, as he gives the amount of 
 human beings in the city for 1840 at 10,718,880 ! The identical year 
 1800, the commencement of a truly important century, found London 
 ptill enlarging: brick-fields and scaffolding were invading all its out- 
 pkirts; but the inhabitants, who had increased in a reasonably rapid 
 ratio, numbered only 830,000. 
 
 I "There are no accurate accounts of the population of London previously to 
 |the Census of 1801. The population of the City was estimated by Graunt, in his 
 famous Treatise on Bills of Mortality, at 384,000 in 1661; and adding one-fifth 
 ^o this for the population of Westminster, Lambeth, Stepney, and other outlying 
 parishes, he estimated the entire population at about 460,000. (Observations, &c. 
 MI ed. pp. 82, 105). In 1696 the population of the City and the out-parishes was 
 Carefully estimated, by the celebrated Gregory King, at 527,560 ; and considering 
 the great additions that had been made to the metropolis between the Restoration 
 |ind the Revolution, this increase does not seem to be greater than we should 
 lave been led to infer from Graunt's estimate. The population advanced slowly 
 luring the first half of the last century; indeed, it fell off between 1740 and 
 1750. In his tract on the population of England, published in 1782, Dr. Price 
 pstimated the population of London in 1777 at only 543,420 (p. 5). But there 
 ran be no doubt that this estimate, like that which he gave of the population of 
 he kingdom, was very decidedly under the mark ; and the probability seems to 
 k that in 1777 London had from 640,000 to 650,000 inhabitants." Macculloch's 
 Geographical Dictionary. 
 
622 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In 1801 the population was 958,863 ; 1811, 1,050,000 ; 1821, 1,274,800: 
 1831, 1,471,941 ; 1841, 1,873,676. 
 
 The Census of 1851 was taken in Craig's-court, Charing Cross, the 
 premises formerly the Museum of Economic Geology. The following! 
 are the general results : London, comprised in an area of 115 squall 
 miles, or 73,715 statute acres, containing 176 parishes. Population! 
 2,361,640 inhabitants 1,103,730 males; 1,257,910 females. Houses* 
 329,428 307,722 inhabited ; 16,889 uninhabited ; 4,817 buildingJ 
 20,536 persons, on an average, are located on a square mile, occupying 
 2,676 houses, or 151 square yards to each person. North side of the 
 river Thames, area, 49 square miles; inhabitants, 1,745,095. SoutH 
 side of the river Thames, area, 66 square miles ; inhabitants, 616,545.1 
 
 " A conception of this vast mass of people might be formed by the fact, thai 
 if the metropolis was surrounded by a wall, having a north gate, a south gat 
 an east gate, and a west gate, and each of the four gates was of sufficient width 
 to allow a column of persons to pass out freely four abreast, and a peremptor| 
 necessity required the immediate evacuation of the city, it could not be accoml 
 plished under 24 hours, by the expiration of which time the head of each of thei 
 four columns would have advanced no less a distance than 75 miles from their 
 respective gates, all the people being in close file, four deep." Cheshire's Resultu 
 of the Census. 
 
 The females exceeded the males by 154,000; being an addition o\\ 
 nearly 30,000 over the males within 10 years (1841-51). This increase: 
 in London is the more extraordinary, as the whole of England and] 
 Wales within that period did not exceed 39,000. The marriages so- 
 lemnised in London during 1850 were 24,361 ; increase of inhabitants 
 in the same period, about 46,000. In 1851, nine centenarians died in 
 London, the oldest being 106 years. 
 
 Since 1801 London has increased from 958,863 to 2,361,640, the 
 numbers growing at each decennial period in the following order : 
 1801, 958,863 ; 1811, 1,138,815 ; 1821, 1,378,947 ; 1831, 1,654,994 ; 1841 
 1,948,369 ; 1851, 2,361,640 : the rate of increase at each interval being 
 18, 21, 20, 17, 21 per cent ; during the w r hole half-century above 
 per cent ; and annually at the rate of 1*81. 
 
 This external London now contains three single parishes, each ol 
 them having a population greater than that of the whole City, east 
 west, and within the walls, taken together, viz. : St. Pancras, 167,198 < 
 Marylebone, 157,679 ; Lambeth, 139,209 : while a very near approach 
 to the City numbers (127,869) is made by Kensington, 119,990 ; Step- 
 ney, 110,669 ; Shoreditch, 109,209. 
 
 The smallest parish in London is that of St. Christopher-le- Stockj 
 which is returned as a single house, now part of the Bank of England. 
 
 London, upon its 115 square miles, contains, within 508,548, at 
 many persons as all Scotland ; or nearly equal to the population of th( 
 entire kingdom of Denmark; equal to about one-half of Sweden anc 
 Norway, of Portugal, of Belgium, of Holland, and of Bavaria ; and ex- 
 ceeding the population of the kingdom of Hanover, of Wurtemberg, 03- 
 Saxony, of Tuscany, of Baden, and some other Continental States.* 
 
 The present population of London is supposed to represent thi* 
 number of inhabitants living in England and Wales four centuries ant 
 a half ago, in the reign of Edward III. 
 
 The entire county of Lancashire contains 297,727 less inhabitant^ 
 than London, requiring another Liverpool to make up the difference 
 The inhabitants of Yorkshire about equal two-thirds of London. 
 
 Wales, with its 12 counties, reckons not more than one-half of th< , 
 population of London ; where the people are 10,000 times as numerous ' 
 
 * A Summary of the Population, with a Statistical Chart of Marriages, Births 
 and Deaths, &c. By C. Cooke. Longman and Co. 1853. 
 
PORT OF LONDON. 623 
 
 as in Bellingham, Northumberland, which contains only 18 persons to 
 the square mile. 
 
 Each day 130 persons are added to the population. About 124 per- 
 sons are daily married in London, 198 children daily born, and 156 per- 
 sons die. In every 7 minutes of the day, a child is born in London ; 
 and in every 9 minutes, one of its inhabitants dies. 
 
 Mr. R. J. Jopling estimates, that " if the population continue to in- 
 crease in the same ratio as in 1851, T515 per cent per annum, it will 
 amount at the close of the century to 4,816,062. To accommodate this 
 number of people, there will be required 160,535 acres of ground, con- 
 taining 650,819 houses, being an increase of more than double the pre- 
 sent area of London." Proceedings of the Statistical Society. 
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 
 
 Sir John Herschel felicitously observes: " It is a fact not a little 
 interesting to Englishmen, and, combined with our insular situation in 
 the great highway of nations, the Atlantic, not a little explanatory of 
 our commercial eminence, that London occupies nearly the centre of 
 the terrestrial hemisphere." Treatise on Astronomy. 
 
 Tacitus describes London, in the year 61, as not dignified with the 
 name of a colony, but very celebrated for the number of its merchants 
 and commerce. In 211 it was styled " a great and wealthy city ;" and 
 in 359 there were engaged 800 vessels in the import and export of corn 
 to and from Londinium alone. 
 
 The Port of London, legally speaking, extends 6 miles below Lon- 
 don Bridge, to Bugsby's Hole, beyond Blackwall. The actual Port 
 reaches to Limehouse, and consists of the Upper Pool, the first bend, 
 or reach of the river, from London Bridge to near the Thames Tunnel 
 and Execution Dock; and the Lower Pool, thence to Cuckold's Point. 
 In the latter space colliers mostly lie in tiers ; a fair way of 300 feet being 
 left for shipping and steamers p'assing up and down. The depth of the 
 river insures London considerable advantage as a shipping port. Even 
 at ebb-tide there are 12 or 13 feet of water in the fair way of the river 
 above Greenwich ; the mean range of the tide at London Bridge is 
 about 17 feet ; of the highest spring tides about 22 feet. To Woolwich 
 the river is navigable for ships of any burden ; to Blackwall for those 
 of 1400 tons ; and to St. Katherine's Docks for vessels of 800 tons. 
 
 In one day, after heavy gales, 244 vessels have entered the port. 
 
 Emigration from the port : on one day, in 1854, there were 73 ships 
 on the berth for the Australian colonies. 
 
 The several DOCKS are described at pp. 254-257 ; the CUSTOM 
 HOUSE at p. 246 ; and BILLINGSGATE at p. 45. 
 
 " In one day (Sept. 17, 1849) there arrived in the Port 121 ships, navigated by 
 1387 seamen, with a registered tonnage of 29,699 tons: 106 British, 15 foreign; 
 52 cargoes from our colonies, 69 from foreign states from the inhabitants of the 
 whole circuit of the globe. The day's cargoes included 32,280 packages of sugar, 
 from the West Indies, Brazil, the East Indies, Penang, Manilla, and Rotterdam ; 
 317 oxen and calves, and 2734 sheep, principally from Belgium and Holland; 
 3967 quarters of wheat, 13,314 quarters of oats, from Archangel or the Baltic; 
 potatoes, from Rotterdam ; 1200 packages of onions, from Oporto ; 16,000 chests 
 of tea, from China; 7400 packages of coflee, from Ceylon, Brazil, and India; 532 
 bags of cocoa, from Grenada ; 1460 bags of rice from India, and 350 bags of ta- 
 pioca from Brazil; bacon and pork from Hamburg, and 8000 packages of butter 
 and 50,000 cheeses from Holland; 767 packages of eggs (SOO.OOi;); of wool, 4458 
 bales, from the Cape and Australia; 15,000 hides, 100,000 horns, and 3600 pack, 
 ages of tallow, from South America and India; hoofs of animals, 13 tons, from 
 Port Philip, and HO elephants' teeth from the Cape: 1250 tons of granite from 
 Guernsey, copper ore from Adelaide, and cork from Spain; 40,000 mats from 
 Archangel, and 400 tons of brimstone from Sicily; cod-liver oil, and 3800 seal- 
 
624 CURIOSITIES OF 
 
 skins, from Newfoundland; 110 bales of bark from Arica, and 1100 casks of oil 
 from the Mediterranean ; lard, oil-cake, and turpentine, from America; hemp 
 from Russia, and potash from Canada; 246 bales of rags, from Italy; staves for 
 casks, timber for our houses, deals for packing-cases; rosewood, 876 pieces; teak 
 for ships, logwood for dye, lignum vitae for ships' blocks, and ebony for cabinets; 
 cotton from Bombay, zinc from Stettin, 1000 bundles of whisks from Trieste, yeast 
 from Rotterdam, and apples from Belgium; of silk, 900 bales from China, fineif 
 sorts from Piedmont and Tuscany, and 200 packages from China, Germany, andi 
 France; Cashmere shawls from Bombay; wine, 1800 packages, from France and! 
 Portugal ; rum from the East and West Indies, and scheidam from Holland J 
 nutmegs and cloves from Penang, cinnamon from Ceylon, 840 packages of pepped 
 from Bombay, and 1790 of ginger from Calcutta; 100 barrels of anchovies from I 
 Leghorn, a cargo of pine-apples from Nassau, and 50 fine live turtles; 54 blocks] 
 of marble from Leghorn; tobacco from America; 219 packages of treasure i 
 Spanish dollars, Sycee silver from China, rupees from Hindostan, and English 
 sovereigns." A Day's Business in the Port of London, by T. Howell, Esq. 
 
 " Again, in one day's consumption, we find corahs, or silk handkerchiefs, from I 
 India; whale-fins and sperm-oil from our deep-sea fisheries; from India, shell-l 
 lac, indigo, and lac-dye; saltpetre for gunpowder, and hemp and jute for cordage;! 
 quicksilver from the mines in Spain ; isinglass and bristles from Russia; Iceland! 
 moss, honey, and leeches, from Hamburg ; manna from Palermo, camphor from.] 
 Calcutta, maccaroni from Naples, sugar-candy from Holland, and lemon oil fromj 
 Messina ; 81,000 Ibs. of currants from the Ionian Islands, 5760 bars of iron from . 
 Sweden, and bees'-wax from the coast of Africa; tea, sugar, coffee, pepper, to3 
 bacco, spirits, and wine; watches, clocks, gloves, and glass-ware; needlework,! 
 ladies' shoes, bonnets, and feathers; toys, lace, and slate-pencils; zaffery and 
 stavesacre from Hamburg; and inkle from France." Ibid. 
 
 The river is protected by an admirable system of police, established ' 
 in 1798, and merged into the Metropolitan Police in 1839. 
 
 Execution Dock, at Wapping, the name of one of the outlets of the 
 river, preserves the memory of many a tale of murder and piracy on the 
 high seas ; for here used to be executed all pirates and sailors found 
 guilty of any of the greater crimes committed on ship-board. Oppo- 
 site Blackwall we remember to have seen the gibbets, on which the 
 bodies were left to decay. 
 
 The loss of life upon the Thames, by collision of vessels and other* 
 accidents, is of frightful amount ; 500 persons being annually drowned 
 in the river, and one-third of the number in the Pool. 
 
 PORTUGAL-STREET, 
 
 In the rear of the south side of Lincoln's-Inn-fields (formerly Portugal- 
 row), has been the site of three theatres, upon the north side of the 
 street. The first theatre (named the Duke's Theatre, from the Duke of 
 York, its great patron ; and the Opera, from its musical performances), 
 wa<s originally a tennis-court, and was altered for Sir William Davenant, 
 and opened in 1662 with his operatic Siege of Rhodes, when regular 
 scenery was first introduced upon our stage. In the same year was 
 produced here Cowley's Cutter of Coleman-street. Here Pepys saw, 
 March 1st, 1662, Romeo and Juliet, "the first time it was ever acted;" 
 and May 28, " Hamlett done, giving us fresh reason never to think enough 
 of Betterton."' " Nov. 5. To the Duke's house to see Macbeth, a pretty 
 good play, but admirably acted." Pepys describes "a mighty company 
 of citizens, ordinary prentices, and mean people in the pit;" where he 
 first saw Nell Gwyn, April 3, 1665, during the performance of Lord 
 Orrery's Mustapha, when the king and my Lady Castlemaine were there; 
 Pepys sat in the pit next to " pretty witty Nell" and Rebecca Mar- 
 shall, of the King's house. Etherege's Love in a Tub was so attractive 
 here, that 1000Z. was received in one month, then a great sum. Here 
 female characters were first sustained by women ; for which purpose 
 Davenant engaged Elizabeth Davenport, the first Roxalana in the Siege 
 of Rhodes ; Mary Sauuderson, famous as Queen Katherine and Juliet, 
 
PORTUGAL-STEEET. 625 
 
 and afterwards the wife of Betterton ; Mary or Moll Davis,* excellent 
 in singing and dancing, afterwards the mistress of Charles II.; Mrs. 
 Long, the mistress of the Duke of Richmond, celebrated in male cha- 
 racters ; Mrs. Norris, mother of Jubilee Dicky ; Mrs. Johnson, noted 
 as a dancer, and as Carolina in Shadwell's comedy of Epsom Wells. 
 The famous Mrs. Barry was brought out here after Davenant's death. 
 Among the actors at the Duke's wereThomas Betterton, the rival of Burbage and 
 Garrick, and the last survivor of the old school of actors; Joseph Harris, famous 
 for acting Romeo, Wolsey, and Sir Andrew Aguecheek; William Smith, a barris- 
 ter of Gray's Inn, celebrated as Zanga in Lord Orrery's Mustapha ; Samuel 
 Sandford, called by King Charles II. the best representative of a villain in the 
 world ; James Nokes, famous for his bawling fops ; and Cave Underbill, clever 
 as Cutter in Cowley's comedy, and as the grave-digger in Hamlet. Abridged 
 from Cunningham's Story of Nell Gwyn. 
 
 From 1665 (the Plague) until after the Great Fire, the theatre was 
 closed. Davenant usually resided here. 
 
 "April 9th, 1668. I up and down to the Duke of York's playhouse, there to 
 see, which I did, Sir W. Davenant's corpse carried out towards Westminster, 
 there to be buried. Here were many coaches and six horses, and many hacknies, 
 that made it look, methought, as if it were the buriall of a poor poet." Pepys. 
 
 In 1671-2, in Lord Orrery's play of Henry V., at the Duke's Theatre, 
 the actors Harris, Betterton, and Smith wore the coronation suits of 
 King Charles, the Duke of York, and Lord Oxford. This year the 
 company removed to Dorset Gardens ; and the King's company, burnt 
 out from Drury-lane, played at the Duke's Theatre till 1673-4, when 
 they left it, and it again became a tennis-court. It was refitted and re- 
 opened in 1695, with (first time) Congreve's comedy of Love for Love. 
 This second theatre was taken down, and a new house built for Chris- 
 topher Rich, and opened by John Rich, in 1714, with Farquhar's comedy 
 of the Recruiting Officer ; when also Rich introduced the first panto- 
 mime, Rich himself playing harlequin. Here Quin played his best parts ; 
 and from a fracas in which he was embroiled, originated the sergeant's 
 guard at the Theatres Royal. The first English opera was performed 
 here in 1717-18; here was originally used the stage motto, Veluti in 
 speculum ; and here in 1727-8 the Beggar's Opera was produced, and 
 played 62 nights the first season, making " Gay rich and Rich gay." 
 In 1732, Rich having built a theatre in Covent Garden, removed there ; 
 '. and the Portugal-street house was by turns let for Italian operas, ora- 
 torios, for balls, concerts, and exhibitions; to Giffard, of Goodman's- 
 [ fields, in 1756; next as a barrack and auction-room; and Spode and 
 'Copeland's China Repository, until 1848, when the premises were sold to 
 the College of Surgeons August 28, and were taken down for enlarging 
 their Museum. Of the theatre little remained, save the outer walls, 
 ybuilt upon an arched cellar : there was a large Queen Anne staircase, a 
 Esaloon upon the first floor ; and the attic, lighted by windows in the roof, 
 Iwas probably the scene-painting loft. 
 
 Upon this site the College of Surgeons completed in 1854 a third Hall for 
 fitheir Museum, by aid of a Parliamentary grant of!5,000/. Among the skeletons 
 jjhere is that of Chunee, the elephant shot at Exeter Change in 1826; also, skele- 
 Itons of rare whales; a large horned Indian rhinoceros; the racer, Eclipse; Su- 
 I'matran tapir; walrus; narwhal; and several thousand osteological and patho- 
 logical specimens. The Museum is open four days in the week, Monday to 
 I Thursday, from 12 to 4 p. m. (See p. 534.) 
 
 In Carey-street, nearly opposite, was a public-house and stable- 
 lyard, described in Sir William Davenant's Playhouse to be Let as " our 
 
 * In the part of Celania, in the Rivals, altered by Davenant from Beaumont 
 | and Fletcher's Two Noble Kinsmen, Moll Davis sang " My lodging is on the cold 
 I ground" " so charmingly, that not long after it raised her from her bed on the cold 
 I ground to a bed royal." Downes's Roscius Anglicanus, p. 24, ed. 1708. 
 
626 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 house inn, the Grange :" it was taken down in 1853 for the site of King's 
 College Hospital At the north-east corner of Portugal- street is one 
 of its olden resorts, Will's Coffee-house; but "the Bell and Dragon 
 ordinary," opposite the theatre, has disappeared. Portugal-street wa 
 the last locality in London where stocks lingered ; those of St. Clement 
 Danes parish being removed from here 1820-26. The burial-ground, 
 with Jo Miller's grave, and the theatrical taverns of Clare Market, 
 are noticed at page 496: Miller's grave and stone are now inclosed in 
 King's College Hospital. The Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors, , 
 built by Soane, is described at page 451. 
 
 POST-OFFICE. 
 
 The General Post-office has had five locations since the Postmaster 
 to Charles I. fixed his receiving-house in Sherborne-lane, in 1635, whence 
 dates "the settling of the letter-office of England and Scotland." It 
 was next removed to Cloak-lane, Dowgate: and then to the Black 
 Swan, Bishopsgate-street. After the Great Fire, the office was shifted 
 to the Black Pillars, in Brydges- street, Covent-garden ; thence, early 
 in the last century, to the mansion of Sir Robert Viner (close to Sher- 
 borne-lane), in Lombard-street, described at page 394; and to St- 
 Martin's-le-Grand in 1829. 
 
 The General Post-office occupies the site of the College of St. Mar- 
 tin 's-le-Grand, at the junction with Newgate-street. It was designed 
 by Sir R. Smirke, R.A., and was built between 1825 and 1829 : it it 
 insulated, and is externally of Portland stone : 400 feet long, 130 wide, 
 and 64 high. It stands in the three parishes of St. Anne and St. Agnes, 
 St. Leonard, and St. Michael-le-quern ; and 131 houses and nearly 
 1000 inhabitants were displaced to make room for this single edifice. 
 Several Roman remains were found during the progress of the works 
 (see page 502). The St. Martin's-le-Grand fagade has three Ionic por- 
 ticoes : one at each end, tetrastyle, of four fluted columns ; and one in 
 the centre, hexastyle, of six columns (from the temple of Minerva Polias, 
 at Athens) : it is surmounted by a pediment, in the tympanum of which 
 are sculptured the imperial arms of the United Kingdom ; and on the 
 frieze is inscribed, "GEOKGIO QUARTO REGE, MDCCCXXIX." Beneath 
 are entrances to the Grand Public Hall, 80 feet long by about 60 wide, 
 divided by Ionic columns into a centre and two aisles; and in the 
 yaulted basement are the warm-air apparatus and gasometers. North 
 of the Hall are the offices for newspapers, inland letters, and foreign 
 letters; south are the offices of the London local post ; the communica- 
 tion being by a tunnel and railway under the Hall floor. In the middle 
 story north are the offices for "dead, missent, and returned letters; 
 south, secretary's offices, board-rooms, &c. The clock, over the prin- 
 cipal entrance, was made by Vulliamy ; the bob of the pendulum weighs 
 448 Ibs., the object being to counteract the effect of wind on the hands 
 of the dial. In the eastern front, facing Foster-lane, the letter-bags 
 are received. The mechanical contrivances for the dispatch of the 
 business of the office display great ingenuity : steam-power is variously 
 employed: two endless chains, worked by a steam-engine, carry, in 
 rapid succession, a series of shelves, each holding four or five men and 
 their letter-bags, which are thus raised to various parts of the building. 
 
 The Mails were originally conveyed on horseback and in light carts, 
 until 1784. when mail-coaches were substituted by Mr. Palmer. The first 
 mail-coach left the Three Kings yard, Piccadilly, for Bristol, Aug. 24th, 
 1784; in 1839 the coaches were displaced by railways. The annual 
 procession of the mail-coaches on the king's birthday was a metropolitan 
 sight. The letters are now conveyed to the railways in omnibuses, 
 
POST-OFFICE. 627 
 
 nine of which are sometimes filled by one night's mail at one railway. 
 In 1839 was invented the travelling post-office, in which clerks sort the 
 letters during the railway journey, and the guard ties up and exchanges 
 the letter-bags, without stopping the train. Four miles an hour was 
 the common rate of the first mail-carts ; a railway mail-train now 
 averages 24 miles an hour ; while, between certain stations on certain 
 lines, a speed of 50 miles an hour is attained. 
 
 The Rates of Postage varied according to distance until Dec. 5th, 
 1839, when the uniform rate of 4d. was tried ; and Jan. 10th, 1840, was 
 commenced the uniform rate of Id. per letter of half an ounce weight, &c. 
 The Government received 2000 plans for a new system, and adopted 
 that of Mr. Rowland Hill ; but not until the change had been some 
 years agitated by a Post Magazine established for the purpose. The 
 Stamped postage-covers came into use May 6, 1840 ; but the idea of 
 a prepaid envelope is as old as the time of Louis XIV. A pictorial 
 envelope was designed by W. Mulready, R.A., but little used. The 
 postage label-stamps were first used in 1841 ; perforated, 1854. 
 
 Nrimber of Letters. The greatest number of letters, under the old 
 system, ever known to pass through the General Post-office in one day, 
 was received there on July 15, 1839, viz. 90,000; the amount of postage 
 being 4050?., a sum greater by 530?. than any hitherto collected in one 
 day. In the third week of February the number of letters is usually 
 highest. The ordinary daily average is 400,000 letters ; on 19tb August, 
 1853, it reached 630,000. The number of letters which pass through 
 the Post-office in a year is nearly 400,000,000. The number of miles 
 which mails travel over railways in a year is about 7,000,000. The 
 length of the English ocean mail-lines is 55,000 miles. The English 
 ocean mail-packets traverse 1,600,000 miles annually. 
 
 The Post- Office Net Revenue for the year ending Jan. 5, 1838, 
 amounted to 1,652,424?. 7*. 7|d. ; while that of the year ending the same 
 date in 1853 was 1,090,419?. 13*. 5}d; cost of management, 1,400,000?. 
 The gross amount of income for the year 1839 was 2,346,278?. ; and for 
 1853, 2,434,326?. In 1851 London contributed to the Post-office revenue 
 953,663?. 17*. lOrf.; Liverpool, 75,926?. 6s. 4c?. ; Manchester, 60,070?. 13*. 
 9d. The number of letters delivered in the London district is at this 
 time (1854) as great as that which, under the old system, was delivered 
 in the whole United Kingdom. 
 
 " It is estimated that there lies, from time to time, in the Dead-Letter Office, 
 undergoing the process of finding owners, some ll.OOO/ annually, in cash alone. 
 In July 1847, for instance only a two months' accumulation the post-haste of 
 4658 letters, all containing property, was arrested by the bad superscriptions of 
 the writers. They were consigned after a searching inquest upon each by that 
 efficient coroner, the " blind clerk" to the post-office Morgue. There were bank- 
 notes of the value of 1010/., and money-orders for 407/. 12s. But most ol these 
 ill-directed letters contained coin in small sums, amounting to 3101. 9s. 7d. On 
 j the 17th of July, 1847, there were lying in the Dead-Letter Office bills of exchange 
 I for the immense sum of 40.4IOL 5s. 7d." (Dickens's Household Words, No. I.) 
 The value of property contained in missing letters, during twelve months, is 
 | about 200,OOOJ. 
 
 There are employed in the General Post-office, including the Lon- 
 i don District letter-carriers, but exclusive of the receivers, 2500 per- 
 sons, in different offices : Secretary's, Accountant's, Receiver's, Dead- 
 I Letter, Money-Order, Inland, and London District Offices. For more 
 ithan half a century there were only two secretaries to the Post-office, 
 i Sir Francis Freeling and Colonel Maberly. Sir Francis was brought 
 up in the Post-office, had performed the humblest as well as the highest 
 duties of the department, and was a, protege of Mr. Palmer, the great 
 1 Post-office reformer. He was succeeded by Lieut.-Col. Maberly, M.P., 
 who retired in 1854, when Mr. Rowland Hill, the originator of the 
 
628 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 penny-post, was appointed secretary, his services having been rewarded 
 in 1846 by a public testimonial of 13,3607. It is singular that all postal 
 reformers have been unacquainted with the department which they have 
 revolutionised. 
 
 THE PENNY POST was originally projected by Robert Murray, a 
 milliner, of the Company of Clothworkers ; and William Dockwra, a 
 sub-searcher in the Customs. It was commenced as a foot-post, in 
 1680, with four deliveries a-day. These projectors, however, quar- 
 relled : Murray set up his office at Hall's Coffee-house, in Wood- 
 street ; and Dockwra, at the Penny Post-house in Lime-street, formerly 
 the mansion of Sir Robert Abdy. But this was considered an infringe- 
 ment on the right of the Duke of York, on whom the Post-office revenue 
 had been settled; and in a suit to try the question, a verdict was given 
 against Dockwra. He was compensated by a pension, and appointed 
 Comptroller of the Penny Post, but was dismissed in 1698. The first 
 office was in Cornhill, near the 'Change : parcels were received. In 
 1708, one Povey set up the " Halfpenny Carriage" private post, which 
 was soon suppressed by the Post-office authorities. They continued 
 to convey parcels down to 1765, when the weight was limited to four 
 ounces. The postage was paid in advance down to 1794. In 1801 the 
 Penny Post became a Twopenny Post ; and the postage was advanced 
 to threepence beyond the limits of London, Southwark, and West- 
 minster ; but in 1840 they were consolidated with the Penny General Post. 
 
 The Money-Order Office, a distinct branch of the Post-office, is a ; 
 handsome new edifice on the west side of St. Martin's-le-Grand. The 
 number of money-orders issued yearly is 5,000,000 ; amount of money- 
 orders issued annually, nearly 10,000,0007. ; yearly revenue from com- 
 mission on money-orders, 80,0007. 
 
 POULTRY, 
 
 The street extending from the east end of Cheapside to Mansion- 
 house- street, was anciently occupied by the poulterers' stalls of Stocks 
 Market, who in Stow's time had "but lately departed from thence 
 into other streets" (Gracechurch-street and Newgate Market). In 
 Scalding-alley (now St. Mildred's-court) was a large house where the 
 poulterers scalded their poultry for sale. It was also called Coney- 
 hope, or Conning-shop, or Cony-shop, lane, from the sign of three 
 coneys (rabbits) hanging over a poulterer's stall at the lane end. Here 
 was built the chapel of St. Mildred, called in old records, Ecclesia Mil- 
 dredce super Walbrooke, vel in Pulletria; una cum capella beatce Maria 
 de Conyhop eidem annexa : the site is now occupied by the church of 
 St. Mildred in the Poultry. (See p. 151.) 
 
 On the same side, between Nos. 31 and 32, was the Poultry Compter, 
 a Sheriffs' prison, taken down in 1817, and Poultry Chapel built upon 
 the site. To the Compter were sent persons committed by the lord 
 mayor ; and to the prisoners was given the broken victuals from the 
 Mansion-house tables. " Doctor Lamb," the conjuror, died in this 
 prison, Jan. 13, 1628, after being chased and pelted by the mob across 
 Moorfields ; for which outrage the City was fined 60007. Here died six 
 Separatists who had been committed by Bishop Bonner for hearing 
 the Scriptures read in their own houses. John Dunton, the bookseller, 
 in 1688. on the day the Prince of Orange entered London, transferred 
 himself and his sign of the Black.Raven opposite the Poultry Compter, 
 where he prospered for ten years. The prison was, in 1806, in a 
 ruinous condition ; but the court was cheerful, " having water con- 
 tinually running:" it was the only prison in England that had a ward 
 
PRIMROSE-HILL. 629 
 
 exclusively for Jews; there were "the Bell," and two other rooms, 
 " very strong, studded with nails," for felons. The debtors were al- 
 lowed to walk upon the leads with the gaoler. 
 
 Hatton (1708) calls the Poultry "a broad street of very tall buildings." 
 At No. 22 lived the booksellers Dilly, famed for their hospitality to 
 literary men: here Dr. Johnson first met Wilkes; and Boswell, Cum- 
 berland, Knox, and Isaac Reed often met. Dilly was the first publisher 
 of Boswell's Life of Johnson : the firm was also noted for the works of 
 Doddridge, Watts, Lardner, &c. 
 
 At No. 31 lived Vernor and Hood, the publishers of Bloomfield's 
 poems ; and the Beauties of England and Wales, an unequal and un- 
 satisfactory work. Hood was the father of Thomas Hood, the wit and 
 humorist, who was born in the Poultry in 1798: "there was a dash of 
 ink in my blood (writes Tom); my father wrote two novels, and my 
 brother was decidedly of a literary turn." 
 
 " Time was when I sat upon a lofty stool, 
 At lofty desk, and with a clerkly pen, 
 Began each morning at the stroke often 
 To write in Bell and Co.'s commercial school, 
 In Warnford-court, a shady nook and cool, 
 The favourite retreat of merchant men. 
 Yet would my quill turn vagrant even then, 
 And take stray dips in the Castalian pool: 
 Now double-entry, now a flowery trope, 
 Mingling poetic honey with trade wax ; 
 Blogg, Brothers Milton Grote and Prescott Pope 
 Bristles and Hogg GJyn, Mills, and Halifax- 
 Rogers and Towgood Hemp the Bard of Hope 
 Barilla Byron Tallow Burns and Flax." Hood. 
 
 No. 25 Poultry is the old King's Head Tavern, where Charles II. 
 stopped, on the day of his restoration, to salute the landlady. In the 
 Beaufoy Collection, in the Corporation Library, are Tokens of the Rose 
 Tavern, in the Poultry, mentioned by Ned Ward (London Spy, 1709) 
 as famous for its wine; the Three Cranes, destroyed in the Great Fire, 
 but rebuilt; and the Exchange Tavern, 1G71, with, on the obverse, a 
 view of the Royal Exchange quadrangle. At the Three Cranes met " the 
 Mendicants' Convivial Club." subsequently removed to Dyot-street, 
 St. Giles's. 
 
 PRIMROSE-HILL 
 
 Was named from the primroses that formerly grew here in great plenty, 
 when it was comparatively an untrodden hillock, in the fields between 
 Tottenham Court and Hampstead. It has also been called Green- 
 Berry-Hill, from the names of three persons executed for the murder 
 of Sir Edmondsbury Godfrey, whose body was found here, Oct. 17, 
 1678. On the south side of the hill, during a summer drought, may be 
 traced a green line, which was once a ditch, extending from east to the 
 ground westward now occupied by the New-River Reservoir. In that 
 ditch, near the site of the Water-works steam-engine chimney-shaft, 
 was found Godfrey's body, as thus described in a letter written in 1681 : 
 " As to the place, it was in a ditch on the south side of Primrose Hill, surrounded 
 with divers closes, fenced in with high mounds and ditches; no roads near, only 
 some deep, dirty lanes, made only for the conveniency of driving cows in and out 
 of the ground; and those very lanes not coming near five hundred yards of the 
 place, and impassable for any man on horseback with a dead corpse before him at 
 midnight to approach, unless gaps were made in the mounds, as the constable 
 and his assistants found by experience when they came on horseback thither." 
 
 At the trial, before the Lord Chief-Justice Scroggs, Feb. 10, 1679, the 
 infamous witnesses, Gates, Prance, and Bedloe, declared that the un- 
 
630 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 fortunate magistrate, Godfrey, "was waylaid and inveigled into the 
 Palace (Somerset House), under the pretence of keeping the peace be- 
 tween two servants who were fighting in the yard; that he was there 
 strangled, his neck broke, and his own sword run through his body; 
 that he was kept four days before they ventured to remove him; at 
 length his corpse was first carried in a sedan-chair to Soho, and then 
 on a horse to Primrose Hill," as represented on one of the several 
 medals struck as memorials of the mysterious murder. The body wag 
 carried to " the White House," then the farm-house of the estate of 
 Chalcotts. abbreviated to Chalc's, and then corrupted to Chalk Farm, 
 which became a tavern, removed in 1853. The summit of the hill is 
 206 feet above the Trinity high- water mark of the Thames. (Sef 
 PRIMROSE-HILL PARK, page 596.) 
 
 Primrose Hill is a portion of the land bequeathed by "sundry 
 devout men of London" to St. James's Hospital, but granted by Henry 
 VI. to Eton Coll-ge, surrendered to Henry VIII., but again returned 
 to the College, who, a few years since, transferred it to the Govern-* 
 ment in exchange for a piece of crown-land near Windsor; which was 
 done principally through the exertions of Mr. Hume, M.P., and an 
 Association of persons formed for securing the ground to the public. 
 In 1845 it was surveyed as a site for a grand Industrial Exposition, 
 suggested by the success of the Anti-Corn-Law League Bazaar, in 
 Covent Garden Theatre. In the ridge adjoining is the Primrose-Hill 
 Tunnel of the London and North- Western Railway; its extent is 3493 
 feet, or more than five-eighths of a mile : in tunnelling near the base of 
 the hill, fossil nautili were discovered. 
 
 The Piew from Primrose Hill comprises not only London, with its masses of 
 houses and hundreds of spires, but also the once rural retreats of Hampstead 
 and Highgate, now almost become portions of the great town itself. Opposite is 
 St. John's Wood, and in the rear of St. John's Wood the graceful spire of Harrow- 
 on-the-Hill; and nearer the spectator are the close streets of Portland Town, 
 and the elegant domain of Regent's Park The eye, after resting upon St. Paul'g 
 as the nucleus of the vast city, glances over Islington and Holloway to the un- 
 dulating hills of Kent and Surrey: and upon a clear day may be descried the 
 bright roofs of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
 
 PRISONS. 
 
 Upwards of 30,000 criminals and other persons (exclusive of debt- 
 ors) are stated to pass through the metropolitan gaols, houses of 
 correction, bridewells, and penitentiaries, every year. The number of 
 prisons was in 1854 smaller than half a century since; but the prisons 
 themselves were of much larger extent. In 1796 there were eighteen 
 prisons in London, which in 1854 had been reduced one-third. 
 
 " Access to the national prisons, such as Millbank, Pentonville, and the Queen's 
 Prison, may be obtained by a warrant from the Home Secretary of State; and the 
 city or county prisons Newgnte and Gilts'pur-street Compter, or Coldbath- 
 fields and Horsemonger-lane by an order from a magistrate of city or county 
 who happens to be for a time a v siting justice ; and for every distinct visit a dis- 
 tinct warrant must be presented. All the great London gaols are provided with 
 stands of arms, by which men could be armed in a few m nutes; besides signal- 
 rockets. whi< h would instantly convey intelligence to the Horse Guards, and to the 
 barracks in St James's and Hyde pVrks, of any attack; so that 2000 or 3000 men 
 could be concentrated at any prison in half an hour." Dixon on London Prisons. 
 
 BORODGH COMPTER, Mill-lane, Tooley-street (solely for debtors 
 from the borough of Southwark), was originally part of the church of 
 St. Margaret, at St. Margaret's Hill, where the prison site is denoted 
 by Counter (Compter) street. 
 
 BRIDEWELL, Bridge-street, Blackfriars, is described at page 53. 
 
PRISONS. 631 
 
 CITY PRISON, Camden-road, Holloway,is built upon land originally 
 purchased by the Corporation for a cemetery, during the raging of the 
 cholera in 1832. The extent is 10 acres within the boundary-wall, 18 
 feet high. The prison, designed by Bunning, is built in the castellated 
 style, has fortified gateways, and is embattled throughout the six radi- 
 ating wings; the number of cells is 436; the building is fire-proof; the 
 ventilation is by a shaft 146 feet high ; the water-supply from an Arte- 
 sian well, 319 feet deep. The prisoners are variously employed ; and 
 the discipline is neither entire separation nor association, but the middle 
 course. The prison was first opened Oct. 6, 1852. Cost, about 100,000*. 
 
 CLERKENWELL PRISON, St. James's Walk, was established by pa- 
 tent granted by James I., and was erected, in 1616, upon the site of 
 "the Cage:" it was mostly rebuilt in 1820; but being ill planned, was 
 taken down in 1846, and an enlarged gaol erected upon its site. (See 
 MIDDLESEX HOUSE OF DETENTION.) In the old prison was confined 
 Jack Sheppard, whose fetters, of double the usual weight, are shown. 
 
 CLINK (the), Bankside, was named from being the prison of the 
 " Clink Liberty," in Southwark, belonging to the Bishops of Win- 
 chester ; and was used in old time "for such as would brabble, frey, or 
 break the peace on the said bank, or in the brothel-houses." (Stow.) 
 About 1745, the old prison, at the corner of Maid-lane, was aban- 
 doned, and a dwelling on the Bankside appropriated in its stead ; this 
 was burnt in the riots of 1780, and no other prison has since been esta- 
 blished for the liberty. 
 
 The palace of the Bishops of Winchester, at Bankside, was made a 
 prison during the Civil Wars : Sir Kenelm Digby, while confined here 
 as a Royalist, wrote his refutation of Browne's ~Religio Medici. 
 
 COLDBATH-FIELDS' HOUSE OF CORRECTION, for prisoners from 
 Middlesex, incloses nine acres of ground ; and with an average of from 
 1200 to 1400 occupants, is one of the healthiest prisons in the metro- 
 polis : in April 1854 there were 1595 prisoners. The oldest portion 
 was built in 1794. It formerly had a reputation for severity : 
 
 " As he went through Coldbath-fields, he saw 
 A solitary cell ; 
 
 And the devil was pleased, for it gave him a hint 
 For improving his prisons in hell." The Devil's Walk. 
 
 In 1820 the Cato-street conspirators were lodged here before being 
 sent to the Tower. The prison uniform is coarse woollen blue cloth 
 for misdemeanants, and dark grey for felons : each prisoner is known 
 only by the number on his back ; and a star upon the arm denotes good 
 conduct. The workshop is an interesting scene ; but the oakum-pick- 
 ing-room, with its 400 felon faces, is a painful sight ; and the tread- 
 wheel, employing 320 prisoners at a time, is another repulsive feature. 
 Carpenters, tinmen, blacksmiths, and other handicraftsmen work here; 
 and in the ground is the upper part of a vessel, with masts and rigging, 
 for teaching boys the sea-service ; there are also schools and reforma- 
 tory visits. (See Dixon's London Prisons, 1850.) 
 
 FLEET PRISON is described at pp. 300-303. 
 
 GILTSPUR-STREET CoMPTER is also the City House of Correction : 
 it was built by George Dance, in 1791, to supersede the wretched 
 prison in Wood-street, whence the prisoners were removed in 1791 : 
 it was then only used for debtors, but subsequently for remands and 
 committals for trial, and minor offenders. The rear of the prison abuts 
 on Christ's Hospital, and its towers are visible from the yard: the 
 happy shouts of the boys at play are heard by the prisoners, and the 
 
632 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 balls often fall within the prison-yards, as if to remind the fallen in- 
 mates how much innocence they had outlived ! In 1808 Sheriff Phillips 
 described Giltspur-street, with its corner, entitled "Ludgate," (for 
 citizen debtors, clergymen, proctors, and attorneys,) and the whole pri- 
 son, as greatly overcrowded by the removal to it of the Poultry Comp- 
 ter debtors. The solitary confinement was in front of the building, 
 where, however, the prisoners could see the busy street, and the crowds 
 to witness executions in front of Newgate. About 6000 prisoners were 
 annually committed to Giltspur-street ; but it was one of the worst 
 managed and least secure of the metropolitan prisons, and the escapes 
 from it have been the most frequent. As a proof of the lenity of its 
 management, it is related that, on the death of Mr. Teague, the humane j 
 governor of Giltspur-street Compter, in 1841, nearly every prisoner 
 wore a black crape hat-band! 
 
 HORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL, on the south side of Newington Cause- 
 way, was built upon the plan of John Howard, in 1791-9 (George G wilt, 
 architect), upon the site of a market-garden. It is a common gaol for 
 the county of Surrey, under the Sheriff, Court of Quarter Sessions, and 
 Magistrates, and is for debtors and criminals. 
 
 Among the several benefactions enjoyed by the debtors is a donation made to 
 the old White Lion Prison, in Southwark (mentioned by Stow), by Mrs. Margaret 
 Symcott, or Eleanor Gwyn, of 65 penny loaves every eight weeks, issuing from 
 the Chamberlain's Office. 
 
 The employments are knitting, netting, oakum-picking, lime-wash- 
 ing, and cleansing the gaol: it will contain about 400 prisoners. 
 
 Upon the roof of the north lodge were executed, on Feb. 21, 1803, 
 Colonel Edward Marcus Despard and six associates, who had been tried 
 and found guilty, by a special commission, of high treason : Richard 
 Patch for murder, April 8, 1806; and Nov. 13, 1849, the Mannings, 
 husband and wife, for murder. Leigh Hunt was imprisoned here for a 
 libel on the Prince Regent, in 1813; and here he was first introduced to 
 Lord Byron. (See Leigh Hunt's Autobiography, vol. ii.) In June 
 1849 three burglars escaped from their cells in this prison by means of a 
 key which they made from a pewter pot ; but they were recaptured in 
 scaling the 20-feet wall 
 
 LUDGATE PRISON is described at page 476. 
 
 MARSHALSEA PRISON, " so called as pertaining to the Marshallesof 
 England" (Stow), stood in High-street, Southwark. Here were con- 
 fined persons guilty of piracies and other offences on the high seas. 
 (See page 451.) In 1377 it was broken into by a mob of sailors, who 
 murdered a gentleman confined in it for killing one of their comrades, 
 but who had been pardoned. During the rebellion of Wat, Tyler, in 
 1381, the marshal of this prison, and the governor of the King's Bench, 
 Sir John Imworth, was seized and beheaded. 
 
 "To the Marshalsea Bishop Bonner was sent, on losing his see of London for 
 adherence to Rome. A man meeting him, cried, 'Good morrow, bishop quon- 
 dam;' to which Bonner replied, ' Farewell, knave semper.' He lived ten years 
 in the Marshalsea, and died there Sept. 5, 1569 ; he was buried at midnight, with 
 other prisoners, in St. George's, Southwark. In the reigns of Henry VIII., Mary, 
 and Elizabeth, the Marshalsea was the second prison in importance in London, 
 being inferior only to the Tower. Christopher Bro< ke, the poet, was confined in 
 the Marshalsea for being concerned in the wedding of Dr. Donne. George Wither 
 was committed here for writing the satire, Abuses Slript and Whipt; but he pro- 
 cured his release by his Satire to the Kii.'ff." Dixon, London Prisons, abridged. 
 
 The Marshalsea escaped the riots of 1780. The old prison occupied 
 the site of the house, No. 119 High-street ; it was then removed to 
 other premises nearer St. George's Church; and these were taken 
 down in 1842, when the prisoners were drafted to the Queen's Bench. 
 
PRISONS. 633 
 
 Tymms (Family Topographer, 1832) describes " the inside of the palace 
 court very elegant." 
 
 In the Southwark prisons were confined the Nonconformist confessors. In 
 the Marshalsea died John Udall, the Puritan martyr; and in the Queen's Bench 
 John Penry wrote his last affecting letters. Barrowe and Greenwood, Francis 
 Johnson and Henry Jacob, were imprisoned in the Clink. 
 
 MIDDLESEX HOUSE OF DETENTION (the), Clerkenwell, was con- 
 structed, in 1846, for the reception of prisoners before trial, the accused 
 only ; and was the first built upon that plan in England, modified from 
 the separate system at Pentonville. There are 286 cells. 
 
 MILLBANK PRISON, Westminster, near the foot of Vauxhall Bridge, 
 is the largest penal establishment in England. The site was pur- 
 chased, in 1799, of the Marquis of Salisbury, for 12,0001. ; but the build- 
 ing was not commenced until 1812, when a contract was entered into 
 by the Government with Jeremy Bentham; and the edifice is a modi- 
 fication of his " Panopticon, or Inspection House." It was next changed 
 into a regular Government prison for criminals, adult and juvenile, and 
 became the general depot for transports waiting to be drafted^to other 
 prisons, or placed on shipboard for dockyard labour; and here are sent 
 the most reckless and hardened criminals from all parts of the country. 
 The soil of the site is a deep peat, and the buildings are laid on a solid 
 and expensive concrete; but the situation is low and unhealthy. The 
 prison cost half a million of money, or about 500Z. for each cell ! The only 
 entrance is in the Thames' front. The ground-plan consists of six pen- 
 tagonal buildings, radiating from a circle, wherein is the governor's 
 house ; and each line terminates in a tower in the outer octagonal wall, 
 which incloses about 16 acres; 7 covered with buildings, including 12 
 chapels and airing-yards, and 9 laid out as gardens. The corridors are 
 upwards of 3 miles long ; there are about 1550 cells ; and from 4000 to 
 5000 persons pass through the prison yearly. There are 40 staircases, 
 making in all 3 miles distance. In 1843 the name of the Penitentiary 
 was changed, by Act of Parliament, to the Millbank Prison. From the 
 general resemblance of its conical-roofed towers to those of the Bastile 
 du Temple at Paris, as well as from the severity of its system, the 
 Penitentiary has been stigmatised as " the English Bastile." 
 
 " The dark cells, 20 steps below the ground-floor, are small, ill-ventilated, and 
 doubly baired; and no glimpse of day ever enters this iearful place, where the 
 offender is locked up for three days, fed upon bread and water, and has only a 
 board to sleep on." Dixon. 
 
 NEWGATE, on the east side of the Old Bailey, is now used as a gaol of 
 detention for persons about to be tried at the adjacent Central Criminal 
 Court ; here are also confined prisoners convicted of assaults or offences 
 on the high seas, and those who are under sentence of death. Until 
 1815, when Whitecross- street prison was built, Newgate was used for 
 debtors as well as felons : hence its "Debtors' Door." 
 
 Sheriff Hoare, 1740-1, tells us how the names of the prisoners in each gaol 
 were read over to him arid his colleague ; the keepers acknowledged them, one by 
 one, to be in their custody; and then tendered the keys, which were delivered 
 back to them again ; and after having executed the indentures, the Sheriffs par- 
 took of sack and walnuts, provided by the keepers of the prison, at a tavern ad- 
 joining Guildhall. Formerly the Sheriffs attended the Lord Mayor, on Easter- 
 eve, " through the streets, to collect charity for the prisoners in the City prisons." 
 
 Old Newgate prison was over and about the City gate " so called, 
 as built after the four principal gates were reckoned old." It was 
 merely a tower or appendage to the gate, which stretched across the 
 west end of Newgate-street; still, from the time of King John to that 
 of Charles II., it was sufficient prison-room for the city and county. 
 It was originally " Chamberlain Gate," and was rebuilt by the executors 
 
634 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Sir Richard Whittington, whose statue, with the traditional cat, j| 
 was placed in a niche upon the wall. Here were also statues of Con- I 
 cord, Mercy, Justice and Truth, Peace and Plenty, &c. 
 
 "In the Beaufoy Collection, at Guildhall, is a Newgate Prison Token, No. 715. 
 
 Obv. Belonging to ye cellor on the masters side at 1669. Rev. Newgate View 
 
 of Newgate and the Debtors' Prison. This token was struck as a monetary me- 
 dium among the prisoners, and is of the utmost rarity and interest, from the 
 delineation of the pdson it aff>rd." Burn's Descriptive Catalogue, page 138. 2 
 
 Newgate was restored by Wren in 1672, after the Great Fire ; but 
 it was burnt to the ground in the riots of 1780, when the rioters stole 
 the keys, which were found some time after in the basin of water in St. 
 James -square. Dr. Johnson and Dr. Scott (Lord Stowell) saw New- \ 
 gate in ruins. " with the fire yet glowing: 5 ' the iron bars were eaten 
 through, and the stones vitrified by the intense heat. 
 
 Maitland describes the prisoners crowded together in dark dungeon^ 
 where the foul air caused the " gaol distemper," of which they died ! 
 dozens in a day; and in 1750 the effluvia created a pestilence in the 
 Sessions House, by which sixty persons died. (See OLD BAILEY, 
 page 556.) The prison was then cleansed, and a ventilating machine, 
 with sails like a windmill, was placed on the roof. 
 
 Memorable Imprisonments. Newgate was used as a state-prison long before 
 the Tower. Robert Baldock, chancellor to Edward III., died here. Here were | 
 imprisoned John Bradford, of Manchester, the friend of RidK-y; the intrepid ; 
 John Roujjh: John Field and Thomas Wilcox, in 1572, for writing the celebrated j 
 Admoniti'jn to Parliament for the Reformation of Church Discipline; and here, j 
 in prison, they maintained the Whitgift controversy. Dr. Leif>hlon (ten years), ' 
 for writing his Appeal to Parliament. George Wittier, the poet, for writing the 
 Vox Vulgi. George Sackville, poet, rake, and Earl of Dorset, occupied a cell in 
 Newgate. In 1672, Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was confined here six i 
 months, for street-preaching; Titus Gates and Dangerfield were sent here, and ; 
 Dangerfield died in the prison. At the Revolution, Bishops Ellis and Leyburn 
 were confined here, and were visited by Burnet. Defoe was committed to New- 
 gate for writing his Shortest Way with Dissenters; and here he wrote An Ode it 
 the Pillory, and commenced his Review. Major Bernard*, suspected of plotting ' 
 with Rookwood against King William, died in Newgate, after eeven years' con- 
 finement. Richard Akerman, Boswell's friend, was gaoler. (Abridged from Dixon 
 on the London Prisons.) Dr. Dodd, while imprisoned here, finished a comedy 
 (Sir Roger de Coverley) : and after conviction, wrote his Prison Thoughts. Jack 
 Sheppard escaped from " the Castle in Newgate;" and from " the Middle Stone ; 
 Room," after his being retaken in Drury-lane. His portrait ^-as painted in the 
 prison by Sir James Thornhill. The Beggar's Opera was first called A Newgate 
 Pastoral. The Trials are reported in the Newgate Calendar ; and in the Annal* of 
 Newgate, by the Rev. Mr. Villette, Ordinary. 
 
 The present " prison of Newgate" was designed, in 1770, by George 
 Dance, K.A., and is one of his finest works: the architecture bespeaks 
 the purposes of the structure, and its solidity and security at once im- 
 press the spectator. The first stone was laid, 23d May, 1770, by Lord 
 Mayor Beckford, this being his last public act. John Howard objected 
 to the plan, but was overruled. While yet unfinished, in 1780, New- 
 gate was attacked by Lord George Gordon's rioters, who broke open 
 the doors of the tenanted portion, and set 300 prisoners at large; they 
 then set fire to the building, which was reduced to a shell : it was re- 
 paired and completed in 1782. The plan consists of a centre (the keep- 
 er's house); two lodges, stamped with gloomy grandeur and severity; 
 and two wings of yards right and left, but not suited for the classi- 
 fication or reformation of the prisoners. The fagades are 297 feet 
 and 115 feet long, and are externally a good specimen of prison archi- 
 tecture. The outer walls are three feet thick. Early in the present 
 century nearly 800 prisoners were confined here at one time, when a 
 contagious fever raged. In 1808, Sheriff Phillips states, the women in 
 Newgate usually numbered from 100 to 130; and each had only 18 
 
PRISONS. 
 
 635 
 
 inches breadth of sleeping-room, packed like slaves in the hold of a 
 slave-ship ! Mrs. Fry describes them as " swearing, gaming, fighting, 
 singing, dancing, drinking, and dressing up in men's clothes ;" and in 
 1838, gambling, card-playing, and draughts were common among the 
 male prisoners. The chapel has galleries for the male and female pri- 
 soners : below, and in the centre of the floor, is placed a chair for the 
 condemned culprit ; but the public are no longer admitted to hear the 
 "condemned sermons" on Sundays before executions: the criminal's 
 coffin was also placed at his feet during the service ! Formerly 60 per- 
 sons have been seen on one Sunday in " the condemned pew," the wood- 
 work of which was cut with the name of many a hardened wretch. 
 
 In the lower room, on the south side of the prison, died Lord 
 George Gordon, of the gaol distemper, after several years' imprison- 
 ment, for libelling the Queen of France. The culprit in the furthest 
 cell on the ground-floor is within a yard of the busy passers-by in the 
 street. In the hall is a collection of ropes ; also casts taken from the 
 heads of the principal criminals who have been executed in the front of 
 the prison. 
 
 The kitchen was formerly the hall in which debtors were received ; 
 it opens by " the Debtors' Door," through which criminals pass to the 
 scaffold in the street, a passage being made through the kitchen by 
 black curtains. The place of execution was changed to this spot in 
 December 1783, at the suggestion of John Howard. 
 
 Within the walls is a cemetery, where, since 1820, have been buried the bodies 
 of executed criminals: the first deposited there were Thistlesvood and the other 
 Cato-street conspirators. The bodies are buried, without service, at eight in the 
 evening of the day of their execution, and at each grave is a tall stone with the 
 rudely-inscribed name. 
 
 The Press-yard, between Newgate and the Old Bailey Courts, is 
 described at page 556. It was formerly customary for the Lord Mayor 
 and Sheriffs, when proceeding to proclaim Bartholomew Fair, on 
 Sept. 2, to stop at Newgate, and drink "a cool tankard" to the health 
 of the Governor of Newgate ; but this practice was discontinued in the 
 second mayoralty of Alderman Wood, in 1821. Two watchmen are 
 stationed on the roof of the prison during the night. 
 
 One of the last persons confined in Newgate for a political offence was Mr. 
 Hobhouse (now Lord Broughton), for publishing his pamphlet, The. Trifliny Mis- 
 take; when Lord Byron's prediction, that Hobhouse "having foamed himself 
 into a reformer, he would subside into Newgate," literally came to pass: and 
 great was the enthusiasm of the people in the street at seeing Mr. Hobhouse's hat 
 above the prison parapet, as he walked upon the roof for exercise ! 
 
 The cost of maintaining the prisoners in Newgate is 371. a-head 
 annually. The old associated system is pursued here ; the silent 
 system at Millbank, in Coldbath-fields,and Tothill-fields ; and the sepa- 
 rate system at Pentonville, Millbank, and the House of Detention; yet 
 Newg'ate has the advantage, as seven out of eight of its prisoners never 
 return to it. Nevertheless, says an official authority : 
 
 "Newgate prison is a complete quarry of stone, without any order or possi- 
 bility of order in it. There are a vast number of rooms in it, over which there 
 is no inspec ion whatever; and nothing as a prison can remedy it. It has a most 
 imposing exterior, which is perhaps its greatest use as a deterrer from crime, and 
 the worst possible interior." Captain Williams, Prisons Inspector. 
 
 PENTONVILLE PRISON, in the road from the foot of Pentonville-hill 
 to Holloway, and over against Barnsbury, was commenced April 10, 
 1840, and completed in 1842, at a cost of nearly 100,000?., upon the plan 
 of Lieut.-Col. Jebb, R.E. The area within the lofty walls is 6| acres, 
 besides a curtain-wall, with massive posterns in front, where is a frown- 
 ing entrance-gateway, its arched heads filled with portcullis-work: 
 
636 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and from the main building rises a lofty Italian clock-tower. From the 
 inspection or central hall radiate five wings or galleries, on the sides of 
 four of which are the 520 cells, in three stories. 
 
 Each cell is 13 feet long by 7 feet broad, and 9 feet high: it has an iron 
 water-closet, pail, and wash-basin supplied with water; a three-legged stool, table, 
 and shaded gas-burner, and a slung hammock, with mattress and blankets; iu 
 the door is an eyelet hole, that the officer may inspect from outside ; and the 
 meals are conveyed through a spring trap-door. 
 
 The heating is from stoves in the basement ; and the ventilation is 
 by an immense shaft from the roof of each wing. The chapel is fitted 
 up with separate stalls or sittings for the prisoners, of whom the officers 
 have the entire surveillance. The organ is by Gray. The exercising- 
 yards, between and in front of the wings, are radiated, so that an 
 officer may watch the prisoners, each in a walled yard. The discipline 
 is the separate system and the silent system modified ; and here wer 
 formerly sent convicts for probation, prior to transportation to the 
 penal colonies, the plan being an adaptation from the Philadelphia!! 
 system. Each cell cost 180/. ; victualling and management nearly 36/. 
 ahead; and the prisoners' labour is unproductive. The building was 
 first named " the Model Prison," as the plan was proposed for the se- 
 veral gaols in the kingdom ; but, from its partial success, the name has 
 been changed to the Pentonville Prison, although it is in the parish of 
 Islington. 
 
 POULTRY COMPTER (the) is described at page 628. 
 
 QUEEN'S PRISON, Southwark, formerly the Queen's Bench and 
 King's Bench, was situated here in the reig'n of Richard II., when the 
 Kentish rebels, under Wat Tyler, "brake down the houses of the Mar- 
 shalsey and King's Bench, in Southwarke." (Stow.) To this prison 
 the Prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V., was committed by Chief 
 Justice Gascoigne, for endeavouring to rescue a convicted prisoner, 
 one of his personal attendants (Stow's Chronicle)', and the room in 
 which he was confined was known as the Prince of Wales's Chamber 
 down to the time of Oldys. In 1579 the prisoners dail\ dined and 
 supped in a little low parlour adjoining the street. In this year, 
 through " the sickness of the house," the prisoners petitioned the 
 Queen's Privy Council for the enlargement of the prison and the erec- 
 tion of a chapel. During the Commonwealth it was called the Upper 
 Bench Prison. Rush worth, author of the Historical Collection, was 
 confined here for six years ; and Baxter, the Nonconformist, was im- 
 prisoned here eighteen months, under a sentence passed by the infamous 
 Judge Jefferies. The original King's Bench was built on the east side 
 of the High-street, on the site of Layton's-buildings, adjoining the 
 Marshalsea and White Lion prisons. Defoe describes the prison-house 
 " not near so good as the Fleet." The present prison is situated 
 at the lower end of the Borough-road: Wilkes was one of the early 
 prisoners here ; and the building was set on fire, and the prisoners were 
 liberated, by the mob in the riots of 1780. (See ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, 
 p. 327.) By the Act 5 Victoria, c. 22, the Queen's Bench, Fleet, and 
 Marshalsea were consolidated as the Queen's Prison, for debtors, pri- 
 soners committed for libel, assault, courts-martial, &c., under the con- 
 trol of the Home Secretary of State. The dietary and other expenses, 
 15007. a-year, are paid by the Welsh and English counties. 
 
 The prison is inclosed by a wall 35 feet high, surmounted by che- 
 vau.x-d.e-f rise : it contains 224 rooms and a chapel. The wall is well 
 adapted for rackets, much played here. Defoe said, " to a man who had 
 money, the Bench was onl} r the name of a prison;" but the present 
 classification of the prisoners has abated its license and riotous living. 
 
PRISONS. C37 
 
 In the King's Bench died John Tull, the inventor of post-chaises. Lord 
 Cochrane was imprisoned here, in 1815, for his Stock Exchange affair; he escaped, 
 and went immediately to the House of Commons, whence the Marshal conducted 
 him back to prison. A printer's joiner constructed here a working model of 
 a printing-machine about 1817. Haydon painted his " Mock Election" and 
 " Chairing Members" from a burlesque election in the prison when he was con- 
 fined there; and thence he petitioned Government, and trumpeted his own dis- 
 tresses. (See Haydon's Autobiography.) The King's Bench has been called 
 " Tenterden Priory," after Lord Chief-Justice Tenterden; and its motley life is 
 the staple of Scenes and Stories oj a Clergyman in Debt, by F. W. N. Bayley. 
 
 The Rules (privileges for prisoners to live within three miles round 
 the prison, and to go out on "day-rules") are said to have been first 
 granted in time of plague. For these rules large sums were paid to the 
 Marshal, who, in 1813, received 28231. from the rules and "liberty 
 tickets," and 872Z. from the sale of beer ! These malversations are now 
 abolished. Kit Smart, the translator of Horace, died within the rules ; 
 here Smollet wrote his Sir Launcelot Greaves, and William Combe 
 his Dr. Syntax. Shadvvell, in his comedy of Epsom Wells, 1676, says 
 the rules extend to the East Indies; which Lord Ellenborough quoted 
 when he was applied to to extend the rules. 
 
 Public Advertiser, Oct. 4, 1764 : " A gentleman, a prisoner in the rules of the 
 King's Bench, a branch of the family of the Hydes, Earls of Clarendon and 
 Rochester, has a most remarkable coffin by him, against his interment. It was 
 made out of a fine solid oak which grew <yi his estate in Kent, and hollowed out 
 with a chisel. The said gentleman often lies down and sleeps in his coffin, with 
 the greatest composure and serenity." Oct. 6 it was added : the coffin "weighs 
 500 Ibs., and was not long since filled with punch, when it held 41 gallons 2 
 quarts l pint." 
 
 TOTH ILL-FIELDS' BRIDEWELL was first built, in 1618, as a house 
 of correction, adjoining the east end of Green-coat Hospital. 
 
 " Over the gate is this inscription : ' Here is several sorts of work for the poor of 
 this parish of St. Margaret's, Westminster; as also correction according to law for 
 such as will beg and live idly in this City of Westminster. Anno 1655.'" Hatton. 
 
 In the reign of Queen Anne it was converted into a gaol for cri- 
 minals. " Howard describes it as being remarkably well managed in 
 his day ; and holds up its enlightened and careful keeper, one George 
 Smith, as a model to other governors." (Dixon's London Prisons.) 
 Here Colonel Despard, the traitor, was imprisoned in 1803. 
 
 Upon a site adjoining was commenced, in 1830, the erection of a 
 new prison, from the design of Robert Abraham: it was first occupied 
 in June 1834, when the old Bridewell was deserted and taken down, and 
 the stone bearing the above inscription was built into the present garden- 
 wall. The new prison, seen from Victoria-street, resembles a substan- 
 tial fortress : the entrance-porch, on the Vauxhall side, is formed of 
 massive granite blocks, iron gates, portcullis, &c. It is built on the 
 panopticon plan, and contains a gaol for untried male prisoners, a 
 house of correction for male convicts, and a prison for women ; 8 wards, 
 2 schools, and 8 airing-yards; 42 day -rooms and 348 sleeping-apart- 
 ments ; besides 120 dark cells in the basement, all ranged round a well- 
 kept garden; while in front is the governor's house, over which is 
 built the chapel ; these forming the keep-like mass which is seen from 
 Pimlico and Piccadilly, and is one of the finest specimens of brickwork 
 in the metropolis. The prison will hold upwards of 800 prisoners : the 
 only labour is oakum-picking and the tread-wheel. 
 
 SAVOY PRISON, the west end of the ancient Palace of the Savoy, on 
 the south side of the Strand, was used as a military prison for deserters, 
 impressed men, convict soldiers, and offenders from the Guards: at one 
 period their allowance was only fourpence a-day. The gateway bore 
 the arms of Henry VII., and the badges of the rose, fleur-de-lis, and 
 
638 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 portcullis. The premises were taken down in 1819, to form the ap- 
 proach to Waterloo Bridge, after which deserters were imprisoned on 
 board a vessel moored off Somerset House ; but the Savoy may be said 
 to have been first used as a prison when John King of France was. 
 confined here after the battle of Poictiers, in 1356. 
 
 TOWER (the), used as a state-prison from about 1457 to our own 
 time, is described with the general history of that palace, prison, arsenal, 
 and fortress. 
 
 WESTMINSTER GATEHOUSE (the), used as a prison for state, eccle- 
 siastical, and parliamentary offenders, as well as for debtors and felons, 
 is described at page 325. 
 
 WHITECROSS-STREET, Cripplegate, is entirely a debtors' prison; 
 the first stone was laid by Alderman Matthew Wood, in July 1813, and 
 the building was completed in 1815. It will hold 500 persons, and is di- 
 vided into six wards Middlesex, Poultry and Giltspur-street, Ludgate, 
 Dietary, Remand, and Female Wards, the inmates of which have no 
 intercommunication. A part is also set aside for commitments under 
 the Small Debts Act. Here are no private apartments, but a modern 
 instance of the wise saw, " Misery acquaints a man with strange bed- 
 fellows." Opposite the Debtors' Door, in Whitecross-street, is the 
 City Green-yard, established in 1771 : here is kept the Lord Mayor's 
 State- Coach," to be seen for a trifling gratuity. 
 
 QUEENHITHE, 
 
 Upper Thames-street, was originally the hithe (wharf or landing-place) 
 of Edred the Saxon, and thence called Edred's-hithe ; but falling into 
 the hands of King Stephen, it was given by him to Will, de Ypre, who 
 gave it to the Convent of the Holy Trinity within Aldgate: however, 
 it came again to the crown, and it is said to have been given by King 
 John to his mother, Eleanor, queen of Henry II.; whence it was called 
 Ripa Regince, the queen's bank, or queen's hithe, it being a portion of 
 her majesty's dowry. It is described by Stow as "the very chief and 
 principal Watergate of this city," *' equal with, and of old time far ex- 
 ceeding, Belinsgate." In the reign of Henry III., ships and boats 
 laden with corn and fish for sale were compelled to pass beyond Lon- 
 don Bridge, "to the Queen's-hithe only," a drawbridge being pulled 
 up to admit the passage of large vessels. In 1463, the market at Queen- 
 hithe was "hindered by reason of the slackness of drawing up London 
 Bridge." Stow enumerates the customs and dues exacted from the ships 
 and boats, and specifies " salt, wheat, rye, or other corn, from beyond 
 the seas ; or other grains, garlic, onions, herrings, sprats, eels, whiting, 
 plaice, cods, mackarel, &c. :" but corn was the principal trade, whence 
 the quay was sometimes called Cornhithe. Stow describes here a corn- 
 mill placed between two barges or lighters, which "ground corn, as 
 water-mills in other places, to the wonder of many that had not seen 
 the like." The charge of Queenhithe was subsequently delivered to the 
 sheriffs; but Fabian states, that in his time it was not worth above 20 
 marks a year. Its trade in fish must, however, have been considerable 
 when Old Fish-street northward was the great fish-market of London, 
 before Billingsgate, in 1699, became " a free and open market." Beau- 
 mont and Fletcher speak of "a Queenhithe cold; and the locality is 
 often mentioned by our old dramatists. It is now frequented by West- 
 country barges laden with corn and flour; the adjoining warehouses, 
 with hfgh-pitched gables, were built long since for stowage of corn ; and 
 the opposite church of St. Michael, with its vane in the form of a ship, 
 
RAILWAY TERMINI. 639 
 
 the hull of which will contain a bushel of grain, is emblematic of the 
 olden traffic in corn at the Hithe. 
 
 Tom Hill was originally a drysalter at Queenhithe; and here he 
 assembled a fine library, described by Southey as one of the most co- 
 pious collections of English poetry in existence : it was valued at 
 6000Z. when, through a ruinous speculation in indigo, Hill retired upon 
 the remains of his property to the Adelphi. (See page 1.) Hill was the 
 jpatron of the almost friendless poets, Bloomfield and Kirke White. 
 
 At Queenhithe, No. 17, lived Alderman Venables, lord mayor 1826-7 ; 
 ijat Nos. 20-21, Alderman Hooper, lord mayor 1847-8. 
 
 Queenhithe gives name to the ward, wherein were seven churches 
 Sjin Stow's time. Westward is Broken Wharf, "so called of being 
 (broken and fallen down into the Thames." Here was the mansion of 
 ' the Bigods and Mowbrays, Earls and Dukes of Norfolk ; and sold in 
 ;a540 to Sir Richard Gresham, father of Sir Thomas Gresham. Within 
 Eke gate of this house was built, in 1594-5, an engine, by Bevis Buhner, 
 ilfor supplying the middle and west of the City with Thames water. 
 
 In 1809 or 1810 was found in the bed of the river, opposite Queen- 
 hithe, a massive silver seal, with a motto denoting it to have been the 
 pfficial seal of the Port of London, temp. Edward 1. It is engraved with 
 Lainer's Plan of the Custom House. 
 
 RAILWAY TERMINI. 
 
 London is girdled with Railways, except at the south-western cor- 
 her; but few of the termini present grand or noticeable features. 
 
 BLACKWALL, Fenchurch-street, to the Brunswick Wharf, Black- 
 wall, 3| miles, saves four miles by the river, besides the difficulty of 
 navigating the Pool. The line of railway is carried nearly throughout 
 on an arched viaduct of brickwork. Originally the carriages were 
 drawn by stationary engines, two at each end of the line; which, by 
 means of ropes, dragged the up and down trains alternately. This 
 mode of working (by George Stephenson and G. R. Bidder) was ridi- 
 culed in Parliament as visionary and impracticable : the rope cost 
 upwards of 1200/., and the stationary engines 30,000?. each ; but loco- 
 motive engines are now used. The terminus at Brunswick Wharf, 
 Blackwall, is an elegant design, by W. Tite, F.R.S. 
 
 EAST AND WEST INDIA DOCKS AND BIRMINGHAM JUNCTION RAIL- 
 WAT extends from the Camden Depot, through Islington, Kingsland, 
 [Hackney, Old Ford, and Bow, to the Stepney station of the Blackwall 
 Railway, traversing the north and north-eastern suburbs, and con- 
 necting the North-Western line with the Thames. 
 
 EASTERN AND NORTH-EASTERN COUNTIES, Shoreditch. This line 
 s carried upon arches through Spitalfields and Bethnal-Green. 
 
 GREAT NORTHERN, King's Cross. This terminus occupies 45 
 acres of land. For the site of the Passenger Station, the Small-pox 
 iHospital and Fever Hospital were cleared away. The front towards Pan- 
 jcras-road has two main arches, each 71 feet span, separated by a clock- 
 tower 120 feet high; the clock has dials 9 feet in diameter, and the 
 principal bell weighs 29 cwt. Each shed is 800 feet long, 105 feet 
 wide, and 71 feet high to the crown of the semicircular roof, without 
 a tie ; the roof is formed of laminated ribs 20 feet apart, and of inch- 
 and-a-half planks screwed to each other. The granary has six stories, 
 and will hold 60,000 sacks of corn ; on the last story are water-tanks, 
 holding 150,000 gallons; and the grain is hoisted by hydraulic appa- 
 ratus. The Goods Shed is 600 feet in length, and 80 feet wide ; and 
 
640 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the roof is glazed with cast-glass in sheets, 8 feet by 2 feet 6 inches. 
 Under the goods platform is stabling for 300 horses. The i-hed adjoins 
 the Regent's Canal, which, from thence, enters the Thames at Lime- 
 house. The coal stores will contain 15,200 tons. The buildings are by 
 Lewis and Joseph Cubitt. The railway passes under the Regent's 
 Canal and Maiden-lane, beneath Copenhagen-fields, over the Hollo way- 
 road, through tunnels at Hornsey and elsewhere, and over a viaduct at 
 Welwyn, with 42 arches, 30 feet wide and 97 feet high. 
 
 GREAT WESTERN, Paddington. This terminus is close to and below 
 the level of the terminal wharf of the Grand Junction Canal. The de- 
 sign is by Mr. Brunei, engineer to the Company ; and adjoining is a 
 magnificent hotel, in the style of Louis XIV., by P. Hardwick, R.A, 
 The facade has two lofty towers with cupolas ; four colossal termini 
 support the balcony; and the large central pediment is tilled with alle- 
 gorical figures by John Thomas. The coffee-room, 2 stories in height, 
 is enriched with columns, terminal figures, and a deeply-coffered ceiling, 
 
 NORTH-WESTERN. This terminus, for passengers at Euston- 
 square, and for goods at Camden Town, cost 800,000?. The Eustoa 
 terminus, by P. Hardwick, R.A., occupies 12 acres. The Propylanim, 
 or architectural gateway, is pure Grecian-Doric ; its length exceeds 
 300 feet ; its cost was 35,OOOZ. ; and it contains 80,000 cubic feet of 
 Bramley Fall stone. The columns are higher than those of any other 
 building in London, and measure 44 feet 2 inches, and 8 feet 6 inches dia- 
 meter at the base, or only 3 feet 1 inch less than that of the York co- 
 lumn. The height, to the summit of the acroterium, is 72 feet; a wind- 
 ing staircase in one angle leads to an apartment within the roof, used 
 as the Company's printing-office; the rich bronze gates are by Bramah. 
 
 This propylaeura is unprecedented in our modern Greek architecture, and 
 " exhibits itself to most advantage when viewed obliquely, so as to show its line 
 of roof and depth, especially as the cornice is of unusually bold and new design, 
 being not only ornamented with projecting lion-heads, but crowned by a series of 
 deep antefixae; while, when beheld from a greater distance, the large stone slabs 
 are also seen that cover the roof." Companion to the Almanac, 1839. 
 
 The paved platforms within the gateway contain nearly 16,000 su- 
 perficial feet of Yorkshire stone, some of the stones being from 70 to 
 80 square feet each ; and each shaft of the granite Doric colonnade, 
 200 feet long, is a single stone. The Great Hall, designed by P. C. 
 Hardwick, is in length 125 feet 6 inches, width 61 feet 4 inches, and 
 height 60 feet ; or very nearly two cubes. The ceiling is paneled, 
 deeply recessed, and fully enriched, and is connected with the walls by 
 large ornamented consoles. The walls are splashed as granite; and the 
 Ionic columns are painted like red granite, with white caps and bases. 
 The sculpture, by John Thomas, are a group, Britannia supported by 
 Science and Industry ; and beneath the ceiling, 8 panels in alto-relievo, 
 symbolic figures of London, Birmingham, Manchester, Chester, North- 
 ampton, Carlisle, Lancaster, and Liverpool The hall is warmed by 
 some miles of hot-water pipes, on Perkins's system. Here was placed, 
 April 10, 1854, Baily's colossal marble statue of George Stephenson, 
 the originator of the railway system : this statue was purchased by the 
 subscriptions of 3150 working-men, at 2s. ; and 178 private friends, at 
 14Z. each. The trains are received and dispatched beneath a vast shed, 
 which has 8979 square yards of plate-glass in the skylights only. The 
 trains are drawn up to the Camden-Town Depot by an endless rope, 
 3744 yards long, and 7 inches in circumference; weight 235 cwt. ; cost 
 480/. The Goods Station, engine-houses, shops for repairs, and eoke- 
 ovens (yielding 360 tons per day), are upon avast scale ; the Passenger- 
 train locomotive sheds are 400" feet long, by 90 feet span. Pickford's 
 
RANELAGH. 641 
 
 goods and parcels shed* is 300 feet by 217 feet, and allows the move- 
 ment of 850 tons per day by steam-machinery, which also raises water 
 from a well in the chalk 350 feet deep. One of the engine-houses 
 covers nearly three-quarters of an acre; the Camden-Town Depot 
 upwards of 30 acres, and its two chimney-shafts are each 132 feet high. 
 In 1851, the traffic receipts of this railway for 22 weeks (Great Exhibi- 
 tion) were 1,314,482J. 
 
 SOUTH-EASTERN (the), Duke-street, Southwark side of London 
 Bridge, provides for the Greenwich, Croydon, Brighton, Dover, South- 
 Coast, and North-Kent lines. The Greenwich Railway, opened Dec. 
 , 14, 1836, was the first completed line from the metropolis : the rails 
 , are laid upon upwards of 1000 arches, in building which more than 70 
 ; millions of bricks were used. The line was projected by Lieut. -Col. 
 | Landmann, who became the engineer-in-chief. 
 
 The Croydon Railway presents a remarkable adaptation of one great improve- 
 I ment to the purposes of another ; the Company having purchased the Croydon 
 I Canal (nine miles from the Thames at Deptford to Croydon), and in its bed laid 
 the rails for a considerable distance. 
 
 SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, Waterloo-Bridge-road. (See p. 441.) 
 
 THAMES JUNCTION RAILWAY (the) has a most remarkable work at 
 Wormwood Scrubbs, where a tunnel passes under the Paddington 
 Canal at the point where it is crossed by an iron suspension-bridge ; 
 thereby affording three different kinds of traffic, one above the other, 
 at as many different levels. 
 
 RANELAGH, 
 
 A public garden, opened in 1742, on the site of the gardens of Rane- 
 lagh House, eastward of Chelsea Hospital; and originally projected by 
 Lacy, the patentee of Drury-lane Theatre, as a sort of winter Vaux- 
 hall. The Rotunda, 185 feet in diameter, had a Doric portico, an 
 
 (arcade, and gallery outside. There was also a Venetian pavilion in the 
 
 j centre of a lake, upon which the company were rowed in boats ; and a 
 print of 1751 shows the grounds planted with trees and allees verts. 
 The several buildings were designed by Capon, the eminent scene- 
 painter. The interior was fitted with boxes for refreshments, and in 
 each was a painting : in the centre was an ingenious heating apparatus, 
 concealed by arches, porticoes and niches, paintings, &c.; and support- 
 ing the ceiling, which was decorated with celestial figures, festoons of 
 flowers, and arabesques, and lighted by circles of chandeliers. The 
 Rotunda was opened with a public breakfast, April 5, 1742. Walpole 
 describes the high fashion of Ranelagh : " The prince, princess, duke, 
 much nobility, and much mob besides, were there." " My Lord Ches- 
 terfield is so fond of it, that he says he. has ordered all his'letters to be 
 directed thither. " The admission was one shilling; but the ridottos, 
 
 I with supper and music, were one guinea. Concerts were also given 
 here: Dr. Arne composed the music, Tenducci and Mara sang; and 
 
 j here were first publicly performed the compositions of the Catch Club. 
 
 j Fireworks and a mimic Etna were next introduced; and lastly masque- 
 rades, described in Fielding's Amelia, and satirised in the Connoisseur, 
 No. 66, May 1, 1755 ; wherein the Sunday-evening's tea-drinkings at 
 
 I Ranelagh being laid aside, it is proposed to exhibit the story of the 
 
 * " More than 2000 parcels per day are booked at the North-Western Railway 
 Station. In Christmas week, 5000 barrels of oysters have been sent off within 24 
 hours, each barrel containing 100 oysters = half a million." Lardner's Railway 
 Economy, p. 130. 
 
 T T 
 
642 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Fall of Man in a masquerade ! Dr. Johnson said there was more of 
 Ranelagh than of the Pantheon; or rather, indeed, the whole Rotunda 
 appeared at once, and it was better lighted : " the coup d'ceilwas the 
 finest thing he had ever seen." Boswell's Life, vols ii. and iii. 
 
 But the promenade of the Rotunda to the music of the orchestra 
 and organ -soon declined: "There's your famous Ranelagh, that you 
 make such a fuss about ; why, what a dull place is that !" (Miss Bur-S 
 nefs Evelina.} In 1802, the Installation Ball of the Knights of the 
 Bath was given here ; and the Pic-nic Society gave here a breakfast to 
 2000 persons, when Garnerin ascended in his balloon. Of the Peace 
 Fete which took place here in 1803, and for which allegorical scenes^ 
 were painted by Capon, Bloomfield sings in homely rhyme : 
 
 " A thousand feet rustled on mats, 
 
 A carpet that once had been green ; 
 Men bow'd with their outlandish hats, 
 
 With corners so fearfully keen. 
 Fair maids, who at home, in their haste, 
 
 Had left all clothing else but a train, 
 Swept the floor clean, as slowly they pac'd, 
 
 And then walk'd round and swept it again." 
 
 Ranelagh was now deserted, and in 1804 the buildings were taken 
 down. In 1813, the foundation-walls of the Rotunda, the arches oil 
 some cellars, and the site of the orchestra, could be traced: part o' 
 the ground is now included in "the Old Men's Gardens" of Chelsea .1 
 Hospital; and the name is attached to the Sewers District, and toa'i 
 long street leading from Pimlico to the site of Ranelagh. 
 
 Ranelagh House was built about 1691, by Jones, first Earl of Rane- 
 lagh and third Viscount, who was a great favourite of Charles 1L , 
 The ground was granted to the Earl by William III.; and the mansion i 
 is shown in a view of the Thames-bank painted by Canaletti in 1752. J] 
 
 In 1854, a large house built upon part of the site of Ranelagh, with some j 
 of its materials, and another mansion, Clarence House, were cleared away, to \ 
 form the new road from Sloane-street to the Suspension-bridge and Battersea j 
 Park, 
 
 RECORDS, PUBLIC. 
 
 " The Records of this country have no equal in the civilised world, j 
 in antiquity, continuity, variety, extent, or amplitude of facts and de- J 
 tails. From Domesday they contain the whole materials for the history i 
 of this country, civil, religions, political, social, moral, or material, from ; 
 the Norman Conquest to the present day. (Of the decisions of the Law : 
 Courts a series is extant from the beginning of the reign of Richard I.) ; 
 With the Public Records are now united the State Papers and Govern- > 
 ment Archives, and by their aid may be written the real history of the 
 Courts of Common Law and Equity ; the statistics of the kingdom in 1 
 revenue, expenditure, population, trade, commerce, or agriculture, ' 
 can from the above sources be accurately investigated. The Admiralty 
 documents are important to naval history ; and others afford untouched <' 
 mines of information relating to the private history of families." Sir 
 Francis Palgravc, Deputy-keeper of the Records. 
 
 They include the official Records of the Courts of Common Law. 
 of Parliament, of Chancery, of the Admiralty, the Audit Office, the , 
 Registrar-General's Office, the Commissariat, the Treasury Books, the 
 Customs' Books, the Privy Signet Office, the Welsh and County Palati- 
 nate Courts, &c. These were deposited in more than sixty places, 
 until the passing of the Public Records Act, 1 & 2 Victoria, cap. 94 
 the great object of which was the consolidation of all the Records ir 
 
RECORDS, PUBLIC. 643 
 
 one depository ; which is about to be attained by the erection of a 
 building, now in progress, on the Rolls Estate, between Fetter-lane 
 and Chancery-lane. The architect is Mr. Pennethorne; and the plan 
 is to provide sufficient space not merely for all the Records now in 
 the custody of the Master of the Rolls, but for all such as may be 
 .expected to accrue for fifty years to come. The building is to con- 
 sist of a north front and two wings ; the three portions to contain 
 228 rooms, 200 of which would receive nearly half a million cubic feet 
 of Records. The front, already completed, faces the north : the style is 
 ate Gothic, or Tudoresque, somewhat of German character; the outer 
 walls are supported by massive buttresses, between which are the win- 
 dows, which are Decorated. The materials are Kentish rag-stone, with 
 dressings of Anstone-stone. The floors are formed with wrought-iron 
 prders and flat brick arches, laid on the top with white Suffolk tiles. 
 The sashes and door-frames are of metal, the doors of slate, the roof 
 i. The hall, entered from the south side of the building, has a 
 >anelled ceiling, formed in zinc and emblazoned. Two windows are 
 >rovided for each room,, which is fifteen feet high, divided by a gallery 
 >r iron floor : hence the windows are unusually lofty, to light both 
 loors, and to throw the light twenty-five feet down the passages be- 
 ;ween the Records ; accordingly the front is a mass of window. As in 
 he same architect's Museum of Practical Geology, in Piccadilly, there 
 no entrance in the principal facade. 
 
 In the first consignment of documents to the New Repository were, 
 among the papers of the Solicitor to the Treasury, the Solicitor's pro- 
 ceedings against Bishop Atterbury and others ; with an important 
 mass of papers respecting the Rebellion of 1745-6; and " very nu- 
 merous documents relating to prosecutions brought by the Crown against 
 authors or publishers of pamphlets or newspapers. The charge and 
 superintendence of the Public Records is vested in the Master of the 
 Rolls, to whose custody the accumulating Records above twenty years 
 old are delivered. Searches may be made at any of the departments of 
 ;he Record Office by payment of the fees, and extracts taken ; but the 
 )eputy-keeper is authorised to grant any literary inquirer permission 
 o search, and make notes, extracts, or copies, in pencil, without pay- 
 ment of fees, on the Deputy-keeper being satisfied that the application 
 s for a bvnafide literary purpose. To show the value of this privilege 
 to literary inquirers, it may be stated that in 1852 one applicant con- 
 sulted nearly 7000 documents, principally at the Rolls Chapel, for com- 
 )iling the history of a single township. A large portion of the Records 
 consulted by literary inquirers is the Rolls of early date, deposited in 
 he Stone Tower, adjoining Westminster Hall, which, being the most 
 valuable of their class, are placed in that fireproof structure. Until 
 ;heir removal to the New Repository, Domesday Book, the Star-Cham- 
 >er proceedings, Treaties, &c., will be kept at the Chapter-house, 
 Westminster. The early Records of the Court of Chancery are deposited 
 n the Tower the later in the Rolls Chapel.* The Queen's Bench, 
 Common Pleas, and Exchequer Records are kept at Carlton Ride. 
 
 See a short Directory for searching the Public Records in the metropolis, 
 'mpanion to the Almanack for 1838. A Handbook of the Public Records, 1853. 
 ! brief Account of National Records, in an Essay on Topographical Literature, 
 y John Britton, F.S.A. (only 50 copies). The Parliamentary Report of 1800 
 ontains the best account of the contents of our Record Offices. See al-so the 
 )eputy-keeper's Reports, and Regulations issued by the Master of the Rolls to 
 he various offices. 
 
 * William Lambarde, the eminent lawyer and antiquary, was, in 1597, ap- 
 ointed Keeper of the Rolls and House of Rolls, in Chancery Lane; and in 16U1K 
 Deeper of the Records in the Tower. 
 
644 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 REGENT-STREET, 
 
 1730 yards in length (30 yards less than a mile), was designed by John 
 Nash, in 1813, and was named from his patron the Prince Regent; 
 although in 1766 Gwynne had proposed a great street to lead nearly 
 in the same line. It commences at Waterloo-place, opposite the site of 
 Carlton House, and proceeds northward, crossing Piccadilly, by a Circus, 
 to the County Fire- Office, designed by Abraham, with a rustic arcade, 
 like that at Somerset House. The roadway is probably the finest spe- 
 cimen of macadamisation in the metropolis. On the East side are the 
 Junior United Service Club (see p. 199); Gallery of Illustration (pj 
 253); the Parthenon Club (p. 196), On the TFetf are St. Philip's Cha- 
 pel (p. 171) and Club Chambers (p. 192). 
 
 At No. 5 Waterloo-place, in the collection of Thomas Walesby, in 1854, was 
 George IV. and the Duke of Wellington on the Field of Waterloo, painted by 
 B. R. Haydon; Gore House, Kensington, with portraits of the Duke of Welling- 
 ton, Lady Blessington, Count D'Orsay (the painter of the picture), &c.; also, Sis 
 Joshua Reynolds's sitters' chair, subsequently in the possession of Sir Thomas 
 Lawrence and Sir M. A. Shee. 
 
 From the County Fire- Office, the street trends north-west by a 
 quadrant, so as to avoid a commonplace elbow: it exhibits Nash'g 
 genius in overcoming difficulties, for by no other contrivance could this 
 sweep of the street have been made so ornamental ; its geometrical 
 fitness can only be fully appreciated in the view from the balcony of the 
 York Column. The 'Quadrant had originally two Doric colonnades, 
 projecting the extent of the foot-pavement ; the cokimns of cast- 
 iron, from the Carron Foundry, each 16 feet 2 inches high, exclu- 
 sive of the granite plinth, supported a bahistraded roof. This was a 
 most scenic piece of street-architecture ; the continuous rows of co- 
 lumns swept in charming perspective, and the effect was very pic- 
 turesque. The colonnades were removed in November 1848, "and a 
 balcony was added to the principal floor. The property has been much 
 improved by this change; but the public unwillingly parted with the 
 grand street ornamentation, which reminded one of a classic city of 
 antiquity. The 270 columns were sold at 7/. 5s. and 11. 10*. each. 
 
 No. 45, the junction of Regent Circus with the Quadrant, has a superb shop- 
 front, designed, in 1839, by F. Hering, in the Revival style ; with fluted Ionic 
 columns, Italianised arches, enriched pediment-heads, spandrds, escocheons, 
 cognisances, and panels; the ornaments being of composition laid upon wood. 
 Each plate of glass in the windows, 140 inches by 82 inches, cost ICO/.; the 
 plate-glass in the fa9ade and interior 1000/. ; and the entire design nearly 4000/. 
 
 From the Quadrant the vista is very fine: the blocks or groups of 
 houses are by Nash, Soane, Repton, Abraham, Decimus Burton, &c. 
 
 East Archbishop Tenison s Chapel, between Nos. 172 and 174, is 
 described at page 172. Fauberfs Passage, between Nos. 206 and 208, 
 is named from Monsieur or Major Faubert, who, in 1681, established 
 here a riding -academy, on premises formerly the mansion of the 
 Countess of Bristol. Evelyn, in his Diary, mentions that Faubert*S | 
 project was recommended by the Council of the Royal Society. 
 
 " 18th Dec. 1684. I went with Lord Cornwallis to see the young gallants d( ! 
 their exercise, M. Faubert having newly railed in a menage, and fitted it for thi 
 academy. Here were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northumberland, Lord New 
 burgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Feversham. The exercises were '< 
 1. Running at the ring ; 2 Flinging a javelin at a Moor's head ; 3. Discharging; 
 pistol at a mark; and lastly, taking up a gauntlet with the point of a sword 
 all these perform'd in full speede." 
 
 When Swallow-street was removed, the riding- school premises, the; 
 livery-stables, were taken down, except one house. The Argyll Room 
 
ROMAN LONDON. 645 
 
 built for musical entertainments, at the corner of Little Argyll-street, 
 were destroyed by fire in 1830. (See page 19.) 
 
 West Nos. 207 and 209, the Cosmorama (see p. 235). Hanover 
 Chapel, built 1823, by Cockerell (see p. 169). The line crosses Ox- 
 ford-street by Regent Circus, and extends thence to the tower and spire 
 of All Souls' Church (see p. 116). The street then sweeps past the 
 mansion and garden of Sir James Langham, to Langham-place, built 
 upon part of the site of Foley House, which was bought by Nash, with 
 the grounds, for 70,000?. 
 
 No. 309 Regent-street, the Polytechnic Institution, erected by 
 Thompson in 1838, and enlarged in 1848, contains a Hall of Manu- 
 factures, with machines worked by steam-power, and several other 
 apartments filled with models, &c.;'Cosmoramic Rooms ; and Theatres 
 for lectures and optical exhibitions. The Catalogue comprises up- 
 wards of 2000 articles. The Diving-Bell is the paramount attraction : 
 it is of cast-iron, and weighs 3 tons ; 5 feet in height, and 4 feet 8 
 inches in diameter at the mouth. Within is affixed a knocker, under 
 which is painted : 
 
 " More air, knock once ; 
 Less air, knock twice; 
 Pull up, knock three times." 
 
 The Bell is about one-third open at the bottom, has a seat all round 
 for the divers, and is lit by 12 openings of thick plate-glass. It is sus- 
 pended by a massive chain to a large swing-crane, with a powerful crab ; 
 the chain having compensation-weights, and working into a well be- 
 neath. The air is supplied from two powerful air-pumps, of 8-inch cylin- 
 der, conveyed by the leather hose to any depth : the divers being seated 
 in the Bell, it is moved over the water, and directly let down within 
 two feet of the bottom of the tank, and then drawn up ; the whole oc- 
 cupying only two minutes and a half. The tank and the adjoining canals 
 hold 10,000 gallons of water, and can, if requisite, be emptied in less 
 than one minute ! Each person pays a fee for the descent, which has 
 produced 1000Z. in one year. The cost of the Bell was about 400Z. 
 
 Adjoining is a school in which Photography is taught; and in the 
 rear of the premises, at No. 5 Cavendish-square, then the St. George's 
 Chess Club, was played, 27th May, 1851, the Chess Tournament, by the 
 first general meeting of players from different parts of the world; 
 among whom were, Szen, Horwitz, Kieseritzky, Lowenthal, Staunton, 
 nd Anderssen. See the Games, with notes, by H. Staunton. 
 
 Next the Polytechnic Institution is a Theatre for the exhibition of 
 Dioramic Pictures. Opposite is No. 316, the Portland Gallery, where 
 the National Institution of Fine Arts exhibits paintings annually. 
 
 KOMAN LONDON. 
 
 Although Londinium was in the power of Rome for more than 400 
 jyears, or nearly one-fourth of its existence in history, the aspect of 
 (Roman London is but matter of conjecture; and tesselated pave- 
 ments, incised stones, and sepulchral urns^found upon its site, are but 
 'ragmentary evidences that wherever the Roman conquers he inha- 
 bits. London was, however, previously a settlement of some import- 
 ance, and of British origin, as we read in Llyn-dun, the hill-fortress 
 on the lake; or Llong-dinas, the city of ships', from its maritime cha- 
 acter ; whence the Roman designation, Londinium. It is not men- 
 ,ioned by Caesar, though he entered the Thames ; nor was it occupied 
 is a Roman station so early as Colchester and Verulam. The Romans 
 
646 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 are supposed to have possessed themselves of London in the reign of 
 Claudius, about 105 years after Caesar's invasion. Londinium is first 
 mentioned by Tacitus* (Ann. xix. 33) as not then dignified with the name 
 of a colonia, but still as a place much frequented by merchants, and as 
 a great depot of merchandise. It was subsequently made a colonia 
 under the name of Augusta (Amm. Marcell. xxvii. 8). 
 
 The Romans found the place a narrow strip of firm ground lying 
 tween the great fen (Moorfields) almost parallel to the river. At right! 
 angles to both ran the Walbrook, and on the east the Langbournej 
 habitations ranged closely from Finsbury to Dowgate, whence to the 
 Tower, villas studded the bank of the Thames. The finding of sepul-* 
 chral remains outside these natural boundaries proves the Romans to 
 have there had their burial-grounds, as it was their custom always to 
 inter their dead without their cities. That Southwark, on the opposite 
 bank of the Thames, was also a Roman settlement, is proved by relics 
 of the reign of Nero; outside which are likewise evidences of Roman] 
 interment. 
 
 London was in walled A.T>. 306 (see CITY WALL ANT> GATES, page 
 184). On the Thames bank, at distances of 58, 86, and 103 feet, within, 
 the range of the existing wharfs, have been found three several lineal 
 of wooden embankment, the work of the Romans, who thus reclaimed] 
 from the Thames the ground on which the present Custom House; 
 and the warehouses of Thames-street are built. 
 
 " Within the space of a century, towers belonging to the Roman wall of Lon- 
 don were in existence; portions of the wall yet remain ; and in the space which 
 it bounded, many vestiges have, from time to time, exhibited tokens of nearly six 
 centuries of Roman occupation." Archer's Vestiges of Old London. 
 
 The main road through the City was the Watling-street, from the 
 vicinity of the modern Ludgate, along the present Watling-street and 
 Budge-row, to the Walbrook, which it crossed by a bridge at the 
 junction of Cannon-street and Budge-row ; and then branching off at 
 London Stone, in Cannon-street, it ran along the Langbourne to Aid- 
 gate. Another road ran from the ferry at Dowgate (the principal 
 Watergate) in the direction of Cripplegate. 
 
 " Roman London thus enlarged itself from the Thames towards Moorfields, 
 and the line of wall east and south. The sepulchral deposits confirm its growth; 
 others, at more remote distances, indicate subsequent enlargements; while inter- 
 ments discovered at Holborn, Finsbury, Whitechapel, and the extensive burial- 
 places in Spitalfields and Goodman's-fields, denote that those localities were fixed 
 on when Londinium, in process of time, had spread over the extensive space 
 inclosed by the wall." C. R. Smith, F.S.A. 
 
 After the Great Fire, the excavations brought to light much of the 
 antiquarian wealth of " the Roman stratum" of tesselated pavements, 
 foundations of buildings, and sculptural remains ; coins, urns, pottery, 
 and utensils, tools, and ornaments. Whenever excavations are made 
 within the limits of the City of London, the workmen come to the 
 floors of Roman houses at a depth of from 12 to 18 or 20 feet under 
 the present level. (T. Wright, F.S.A. The Celt, the Roman, and the 
 Saxon, p. 123.) These floors are often covered with fragments of the 
 broken fresco paintings of t the walls, of which Mr. Roach Smith has 
 a large variety of patterns, such as foliage, animals, arabesque. &c.; 
 and pieces of window-glass have often been found among these remains. 
 T. Wright, F.S.A., Archceofngical Album. 
 
 Collections of Roman Remains. The Tradescant Museum, in 10"6, 
 contained only 6 Roman articles, besides coins : it was increased by 
 Ashmole ; and as it was not removed to Oxford until 1682, he probably 
 added many specimens of London antiquities discovered after the Great 
 
ROMAN LONDON. 647 
 
 Fire. From this time their importance became appreciated: one of 
 the first collectors was John Conyers, an apothecary of Fleet-street, 
 who assembled most of the Roman articles which subsequently formed 
 the museum of Dr. Woodward, dispersed after his death in 1728. 
 
 The following are the principal localities in which remains of Roman 
 London have been, from time to time, discovered : 
 
 Aldgate, 1753. Stone and brick tower of the Roman wall, discovered 
 by Maitland, south of Aldgate ; the bricks sound, as newly laid. 
 
 Barbican. A Roman specula, or watch-tower (the Castrum Ex- 
 ploratum of Stukeley's Itinerary), stood without London, near the 
 north-west angle of the walls, and was called in the Saxon times the 
 Burghkenning, or Barbican, which gave name to the present street 
 leading from Aldersgate-street to Whitecross-street. Bray ley's Lon- 
 diniana, vol. i. p. 40. 
 
 Billingsgate, 1774. In the parish of St. Mary-at-Hill were found 
 human bones, fragments of Roman bricks, and coins of Domitian of the 
 middle brass ; and in 1824 urns and pavements were discovered near St. 
 Dunstan's church, north of Billingsgate. In 1848, portions of an apart- 
 ment and a hypocaust were laid open in digging the foundation of the 
 new Coal Exchange, nearly opposite Billingsgate. The apartment is 
 paved with common red tesserae ; the outer wall, 3 feet thick, is built 
 of tile-like bricks and Kentish rag-stone, the mortar containing pounded 
 brick, an unfailing evidence of Roman work. The hypocaust, or hollow 
 floor for receiving heated air when wood was burnt in the furnace, 
 and thus to warm the apartment above (probably a bath), agrees to 
 half an inch in the dimensions with those given by Vitruvius in his in- 
 structions for the hypocaustum. The bottom is formed of concrete ; 
 and piers support the covering tiles, also covered with concrete. Pipes 
 were also found, which, opening into the hypocaust, were inserted in 
 the walls, and conducted the warm air throughout the building. The 
 whole has been preserved. 
 
 Bithopsgate, 1707. A tesselated pavement, urns with ashes and 
 burnt bones, a blue glass lachrymatory, and remains of the Roman 
 wall, found at the west end of Camomile-street, Bishopsgate, by Dr. 
 Woodward. In rebuilding Bishopsgate church in 1725, several urns, 
 paterae, and other remains were discovered, with a vault arched with 
 equilateral Roman bricks; and Dr. Stukeley saw there, in 1726, a Roman 
 grave, constructed with large tiles, which kept, the earth from the 
 body. In 1836 a pavement of red, white, and grey tesserae, in a guil- 
 loche pattern, was discovered under a house at the south-west angle 
 of Crosby-square, Bishopsgate; supposed very early Anglo-Roman. 
 (ArchcBologia, vol. xxvii. p. 397.) Maitland describes a similar pave- 
 ment found on the north side of Little St. Helen's gateway in 1712; 
 the site of St. Helen's Priory was probably occupied by an extensive 
 Roman building ; and remains of floors prove Crosby Hall to be on the 
 site of a magnificent Roman edifice. 
 
 Broad- street, Old, 1854. On taking down the Excise Office, at about 
 15 feet lower than the foundations of Gresham House (on the site of 
 which the Excise Office was built), was found a pavement, 28 feet square. 
 
 It is a geometrical pattern of broad blue lines, forming intersections of octa- 
 gon and lozenge compartments. The octagon figures are bordered with a cable 
 pattern, shaded with grey, and interlaced with a square border, shaded with red 
 and yellow. In the centres, within a ring, are expanded flowers, sha led in red, 
 yellow, and grey; the double row of leaves radia ing from a figure called a true- 
 love knor, alternately with a figure something like the tiger-lily. Between the 
 octagon figures are square compartments bearing various devices : in the centre 
 of the pavement is Ariadne, or a Bacchante, reclining on the back of a panther; 
 but only the fore-paws, one of the hind-paws, and the tail, remain. Over the 
 
648 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 head of the figure floats a light drapery, forming an arch. Another square con- 
 tains a two-handled vase. In the demi-octagons, at the sides of the pattern, are 
 lunettes : one contains a fan ornament ; another, a bowl crowned with flowers. 
 The lozenge intersections are variously embellished with leaves, shells, truelove- 
 knots, chequers, and an ornament shaped like a dice-box. At the corners of 
 the pattern are truelove-knots. Surrounding this pattern is a broad cable- 
 like border, broad bands of blue and white alternately; then a floral scroll; and 
 beyond this an edge of demi-lozenges, in alternate blue and white. An outer 
 border, composed of plain red tesserae, surrounds the whole. The ground of the 
 pavement is white, and the other colours are a scale of full red, yellow, and a 
 bluish grey. This pavement is of late workmanship. Various Roman and me- 
 diaeval articles were turned up in the same excavation : among these are a silver 
 denarius of Hadrian, several copper coins of Constantine, and a small copper coia 
 bearing on the reverse the figures of Romulus and Remus suckled by the tradi- 
 tionary wolf; several Roman and mediaeval tiles and fragments of pottery; a 
 small glass of a fine blue colour, and coins and tradesmen's tokens. 
 
 Cannon-street, 1852. Tesselated pavement, fragments of Samian 
 ware, earthen urns and lamp, and other Roman vessels, found from 
 12 to 20 feet deep, near Basing-lane, New Cannon -street, upon the 
 supposed site of Tower Royal. 1850. Among the ruins of a Roman 
 edifice, at 11 feet deep, was found in Nicholas-lane, near Cannon-street, 
 a large slab, inscribed, " NVM PROV BEiTA"(Numini Ceesaris Provincia 
 Britannia). 
 
 Cheapside,\595. A vault and pavement found at the depth of 17 
 feet, at the north-west corner of Bread-street ; and near it a tree cut 
 into steps, on the supposed edge of a brook that had run towards 
 Walbrook. In 1671 Sir Christopher Wren, in digging for the founda- 
 tion of the church of St. Mary-le-bow, at 18 feet deep, reached a 
 Roman causeway, of bricks and rubble firmly cemented, which, it is 
 supposed, formed, at the time it was constructed, the northern boundary 
 of the colony ; and upon this was laid the foundation of the church- 
 tower. Wren mistook the crypt of the ancient Norman church for 
 Roman, from a number of Roman bricks being used in the arches. (See 
 Godwin's Churches of London, 1839.) 
 
 Crutched Friars, 1842. A group of three deified females or ma- 
 trons, sedent, bearing baskets of fruit, discovered in excavating for a 
 sewer in Hart-street : it is now at Guildhall. C. R. Smith and T. 
 Wright : Journ. Brit. Arch. Assoc. 
 
 Doiegate. The discovery of a large building and tesselated pave- 
 ment here has suggested that Dowgate was the palace of the Roman 
 prefect, and the basilica or court of justice. 
 
 Finsbury. Opposite the Circus, at ] 9 feet deep, has been discovered 
 a well-turned Roman arch, at the entrance of which, on the Finsbury 
 side, were iron bars, apparently to restrain sedge and weeds from 
 choking the water-passage. 
 
 Foster-lane, 1830. In excavating for the new Goldsmiths' Hall, 
 was found, 15 feet below the level of the street, in a stratum of clay, 
 a stone altar of Diana, 23 inches high, sculptured in front with a 
 figure closely resembling the Diana Venatrix of the Louvre. The sides 
 each contain the type of a tree ; on the back are the remains of an 
 inscription, below which are a tripod, a sacrificial vessel, and a hare. 
 The finding of this altar supports the inference that the ground was 
 the site of the Temple of Diana, referred by some antiquaries to the 
 spot where St. Paul s now stands. The altar is preserved in Gold- 
 smiths' Hall. (See Archaologia, vol. xxix. p. 145.) 
 
 St. George 1 's-in-the- East, 1715. Many sepulchral remains found in 
 digging the foundations of St. George's church, near Goodman's Fields; 
 and in 1787, fragments of urns and lachrymatories, and an inscribed 
 Roman stone, were dug up in the Tenter-ground. 
 
 Grey Friars, 1836. A fluted pillar, supposed Roman, found in the 
 
ROMAN LONDON. 649 
 
 fragment of a wall of the Grey Friars' Monastery : it is almost the 
 only specimen of the kind noticed. 
 
 Houndsditch, 1845. The torso of a white marble statue of a slinger 
 discovered, 17 feet deep, in Petticoat-lane. 
 
 Islington. In the fields, about midway between "White Conduit 
 House and Copenhagen House, near Islington, were, until built over, 
 considerable remains of Reedmont (or Redmont) Field ; a camp said to 
 have been occupied by Suetonius Paulinus, A.D. 61, whose contest with 
 Boadicea at Battle-bridge has been confirmed by a Roman inscription 
 discovered in 1842. Highbury, the summer camp of the Romans, is 
 noticed at page 420. In 1825, arrow-heads and figured pavement were 
 found at Reedmont. Hone's Every-day Booh, vol. ii. p. 1566. 
 
 King -William-street, Lothbury, and Princes- street, 1834, 1835, 1836. 
 -Various remains found in forming the new thoroughfare across the 
 heart of the City, from London Bridge to the line of the old wall at 
 Moorgate. Evidences of Roman habitations, at the depth of 14 and 
 20 feet, on either side of the line of King- William-street. Near St. 
 Clement's church, pavement, earthenware lamps, Samian ware, and 
 coins. Along the line of Princes-street, brass scales, fibulas, styli, 
 needles in brass and bone, coins, a sharpening steel, several knives, 
 and vessels of Samian ware. In Lothbury, at 10 or 12 feet deep, 
 chisels, crowbars, hammers, &c.; a leathern 'sandal, red and black pot- 
 tery, &c. ; a coin of Antoninus Pius, with Britannia on the reverse. 
 From Lothbury to London Wall, brass coins of Claudius, Vespasian, 
 and Trajan ; spatulae, styli, needles, a gold ring, brass tweezers, a 
 hair-pin, and pottery. Near the Swan's Nest, in Coleman-street, a 
 pit of earthen vessels, a coin of Allectus (296), a boat-hook, and a 
 bucket-handle. At Honey-lane, under some Saxon remains, a few 
 Roman coins. In Bread-street, richly figured Samian vases, circular 
 earthen cooking-pans ; and wall designs, fresh in colour, and resem- 
 bling those of modern paper-hangings. (C. R. Smith, F.S.A. Archceo- 
 logia, vol. xxvii.) At the corner of St. Swithin's-lane have been 
 found several skeletons, fragments of pottery ; and coins, in second- 
 brass, of Antonia, Claudius, Nero, and Vespasian. 
 
 Leadenhall- street, 1576. A pavement found at the Leadenhall- 
 street end of Lime-street, at 12 feet deep ; and between Billiter-lane 
 and Lime-street, a stone wall and arched gate, which Stow supposes 
 to have belonged to a Roman house destroyed by fire in the reign of 
 Stephen. 1803. A magnificent pavement discovered in front of the 
 India House, Leadenhall- street, described at page 453. 
 
 Lombard-street, 1786. At about 13 feet deep were found brick 
 ruins, upon three inches thick of wood ashes, beneath which was 
 Roman pavement, common and tesselated (Sir John Henniker, Archceo- 
 logia, vol. viii.). Also, near Sherbourn-lane, at 12 feet deep, a pave- 
 ment running across Lombard-street, between which and the Post- 
 office, but along the north side, ran a wall 10 feet below the street- 
 level, built of " the smaller-sized Roman bricks," and pierced by per- 
 pendicular flues, the chimneys of a mansion. Other fragments of walls 
 and pavements were found ; and in Birchin-lane were uncovered a tes- 
 selated pavement of elegant design; and great quantities of Roman 
 coins, fragments of pottery and glass bottles, keys and beads, a large 
 vessel of figured Samian ware, &c. 
 
 London Stone, removed in 1742 from the south to the north side 
 of Cannon-street, was, in 1798, placed against St. Swithin's church, 
 where it now stands. This unique memorial of Roman London is de- 
 scribed at pp. 471-472. According to Camden, the "London stone" 
 was placed as the Milliarium, or milestone, on the "Watling-street, 
 
650 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a British road, forest, lane, or trackway, before the Romans arrived in 
 England ; attested by the discovery of early British remains on the line. 
 
 Lothbury, 1805. Tesselated pavement: now in the British Museum. 
 
 Ludgate. Upon the site of the present church of St. Martin, Wren 
 found a small sepulchral stone monument to Yivianus Marcianus, a 
 soldier of the second legion, erected by his wife, and sculptured with 
 his effigies and a dedicatory inscription : this monument is now among , 
 the Arundel Marbles at Oxford. 1793. Barbican or watch-tower of! 
 the City Wall discovered between Ludgate and the Fleet-ditch. 1800.1 
 Sepulchral monument found in the rear of the London Coffee-house,] 
 Ludgate-hill (see page 477). 
 
 St. Martin s -lane, 1722. Tn digging the foundations of the new 
 church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, were found, at 14 feet deep, a Ro-\ 
 man brick arch; and "buffalo-heads," according to Gibbs. the archi-J 
 tect. In Sir Hans Sloane's Museum was a glass vase containing ashesJ 
 which was found in a stone coffin upon the site of St. Martin's portico. 
 
 St. Martin s-le- Grand, 1819. Roman vaultings, discovered inl 
 digging for the foundations of the General Post-office (see page 502). j 
 
 Moorfields. An inscribed stone, in memory of Grata, the daughter! 
 of Dagobitus, has been discovered at London Wall. Mr. C. R. Smith 
 is of opinion that the London of the Britons was situated in Moor-1 
 fields; and on this aboriginal establishment the Romans afterwards en-l 
 larged. In 1818 a large portion of the wall on both sides of Moorgate 
 was demolished. 
 
 St. Pancras, 1758 " Caesar's Camp," near St. Pancras church, dis- 
 covered by Dr. Stukeley (see page 579). 
 
 Pavements discovered in Bush-lane, Cannon-street, in 1GG6; near 
 St. Andrew's church, Holborn, in 1681 ; at Crutched Friars in 1787 ; ; ] 
 behind the Old Navy Pay- Office in Broad-street; in Northumberland- 
 alley, Fenchurch-street ; and in Long-lane, Smithfield, about the com- 
 mencement of the present century ; near the church of St. Dunstan's- 
 in-the-East, in 1824; in East Cheap in 1831; at St. Clement's church/ 
 and in Lothbury, opposite Founders'-court, in 1834; in Crosby-square 
 in 1836; behind Winchester House, Bankside, in 1850; and in various 
 places on both sides of High-street, South wark, between 1818 and 
 1831. (G. L. Craik, in Knight's London, vol. i.) Some stamped tiles 
 bear the earliest abbreviation of the name Londinium : they read PER 
 LON and P-B-LON, supposed Probatum Londinii, proved of the 
 proper quality at London; or Prima (cohors) BRitontim LONr/inii, 
 the first (cohort) of the Britons at London. (C. R. Smith, F.S.A.t Or, 
 Mr. "Wright interprets P. PR. BR. upon another tile, as Proprcetor Bri- 
 tannia Londinii, the Propraetor of Britain at Londinium; showing that 
 Roman London was the seat of the government of the province. See 
 a list of potter's stamps on pottery found in different metropolitan 
 localities, in the Antiquarian and Architectural Year-book for 1844. 
 
 St. Paul's Churchyard. In 1675 Wren, in excavating for the foun- 
 dations of the present St. Paul's Cathedral, discovered many Saxon 
 and British graves; and 18 feet or more deep, Roman urns intermixed, 
 
 " belonging to the colony, when the Romans and Britons livpd and died to- 
 gether. The more remarkable Roman urns, lamps, and lachrymatories, frag- 
 ments of sacrificing vessels, etc. were found deep in the ground, about a claypit 
 (under the north-east angle of the present choir) which had been dug by the 
 Roman potters, 'in a stratum of close and hard pot-earth, that extends beneath 
 the whole site of St. Paul's.' here 'the urns broken vessels, and pottery-ware' 
 were met with in jrreat abundance.' "Wren's Parentalia. 
 Wren " rummaged" the ground, but failed to discover any traces of the 
 Roman Temple of Diana or Apollo reputed to have been built here. 
 Dr. Woodward, however, possessed sacrificing vessels, bearing repre- 
 
EOMAN LONDON. 651 
 
 sentations of Diana, dug up at St. Paul's ; besides a brass figure of Di- 
 ana, found between the Deanery and Blackfriars, and believed Roman.* 
 
 Royal Exchange, 1841. In excavating for the foundations was 
 opened an ancient gravel-pit, filled with various Roman relics, de- 
 scribed at page 234; many of which are preserved in the Corporation 
 Museum (see page 535). Remains of buildings covered the whole site 
 of the present Exchange, denoting it to have been one of the most 
 magnificent portions of Roman London. 
 
 Shadwell, 1615. Two coffins (stone and lead), with bones, lachry- 
 matories, and two ivory sceptres, found in Sun Tavern Fields. 
 
 Southwarh. Discoveries of tesselated pavements on and about the 
 site of St. Saviour's church, and other remains of buildings, pottery, 
 lamps, glass vessels, &c. throughout the line of High-street, denote 
 this to have been within Roman London; and a burial-ground of the 
 period has been discovered on the site of that now attached to the Dis- 
 senters' chapel, Deverill-street, New Kent-road. C. R. Smith, F.S.A. 
 
 Spitalfields. Urns, with ashes and burnt human bones, coins 
 (Claudius, Nero, Vespasian, and Antoninus Pius), lachrymatories, lamps, 
 and Samian ware, found in the Lottesworth or Spitalfield. 
 
 Strand. "The Old Roman Spring Bath" in Strand-lane, between 
 Nos. 162 and 163, is of accredited antiquity. The bath itself is Roman: 
 the walls being layers of brick and thin layers of stucco; and the pave- 
 ment of similar brick covered with stucco, and resting upon a mass of 
 stucco and rubble: the bricks are 9s inches long, 4 inches broad, and 
 If inches thick, and resemble the bricks in the City Wall. The pro- 
 perty can be traced to the Danvers (or D'Anvers) family, of Swithland 
 Hall, Leicestershire, whose mansion stood upon the spot. 
 
 Threadneedle-street, 1840-1841. Tesselated pavements found be- 
 neath the old French Protestant Church in Threadneedle-street, at 
 about 12 or 14 feet deep : they are preserved in the British Museum. 
 In 1854 was found a large deposit of Roman debris, in excavating the 
 site of the church of St. Benet's Fink ; consisting of Roman tiles, flue- 
 tiles, fragments of black, pale, and red Samian pottery ; glass, &c. 
 
 Thames River. A silver Harpocrates found in 1825 in the bed of 
 the Thames, and now in the British Museum. 1837. Bronzes found in 
 ballast-heaving in the Thames, near London Bridge, including Mer- 
 cury, Apollo, and Atys; probably the penates of some opulent Roman 
 family. C. R. Smith, F.S.A. , Archceologia, vol. xxvii. 
 
 Upper Thames -street, 1839. Opposite Vintners' Hall, at 10 feet 
 from the surface, were found remains of the Wall parallel with the 
 rThames; and about the middle of Queen-street, 19 feet from the sur- 
 face, was unearthed a fine tesselated pavement. 
 
 Tower, 1111. In digging the foundations of a new office for the 
 Board of Ordnance, within the Tower, at a great depth, were dis- 
 jcovered remains of ancient buildings; a silver ingot impressed "Ex 
 jOFFic. HONORII," and three gold coins of HonoriQs and Arcadius; a 
 small glass crown, and an inscribed stone; thus indicating that the 
 Romans had a fortress upon the Tower site. 
 
 Tower Hill, 1852. Fragments of a Roman building found at the 
 Northern portion of the City Wall, including the supposed volute of a 
 capital, and other enriched remains ; besides a Roman sarcophagus 
 nearly entire : now in the British Museum. 
 
 * In excavating, in 1853, for Cook's colossal warehouse (built in 90 days), 
 km the south side of St. Paul's Churchyard, there was found at twenty feet deep 
 to. Danish gravestone, inscribed in Runic KIN A caused this stone to be laid over, 
 or in memory of, TUKI. The date of this relic is about A.D. 1000; and it is said 
 to be the only Runic monument known to have been discovered in London. 
 ~Yoc. Royal Society of Northern Antiquaries, 
 
 
652 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Walbrook, 1774. Wood-ashes found, 22 feet deep, in making a 
 sewer from Dowgate through Walbrook. 
 
 Whitcchapel, 1776. Monumental stone to a soldier of the 24th 
 legion, found in a burial-ground at the lower end of Whitechapel-lane. 
 
 In Mr. Charles Roach Smith's Museum of London Antiquities (see p. 530) 
 are 528 Roman items, collected in the metropolis during street-improvements, 
 sewerage, and the deepening of the bed of the Thames. These objects include 
 Roman sculpture, bronzes, pottery, terra-cotta lamps, red glazed pottery, potters' 
 stamps, glass ; tiles, pavements, and wall-paintings; personal ornaments, sandals 
 in leather, utensils and implements, and coins. The Museum contains the same 
 number of Anglo-Saxon and Norman, and Mediaeval remains. (See the Cata- 
 logue, with illustrations by F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Subscribers 
 only, 1854.) In Mr. Saull's Museum (see p. 542) are also several Roman relics, 
 The collection of Mr. George Gwilt, Union street, is rich in Southwark remains. 
 
 ROTHERHITHE, 
 
 A manor and parish between Deptford and Bermondsey, on the Surrey 
 bank of the Thames, was anciently called Retherhith, probably from the 
 Saxon redhra, a mariner, and hyth, a haven, i. e. the sailor's harbour. 
 (Bray ley's Surrey.) It is vulgarly Redriff. At the time of Domesday, 
 it was included in the royal manor of Bermondsey ; but it was not sur- 
 rendered until the reign of Charles I. A fleet was fitted out at Rother- 
 hithe in the reign of Edward III., by order of the Black Prince and 
 John of Gaunt. Lambarde states that Henry IV. lodged in an " old 
 stone house here whiles he was cured of a leprosie ;" and two of Henry'g 
 charters are dated here, July 1412. The mother-church of St. Mary is 
 described at page 146 : Gataker, the erudite Latin critic, was rector 
 from 1611 to 1654 ; he was imprisoned in the Fleet by Laud, and is buried 
 here. In the churchyard lies Prince Le Boo. The registers, commenc-ing 
 1556, contain many entries of ages from 90 to 99 years, and one of 120 
 years. Admiral Sir Charles Wager possessed the manor between 1740 
 and 1750. The brave Admiral Sir John Leake was born here June 1656; 
 but Admiral Benbow, stated by Manning and Bray to have been born at 
 Kotherhithe, was a native of Coton-hill, Shrewsbury. (See Gent. Mag. 
 Dec. 1809.) George Lillo, the dramatist, who wrote George Barnwell, 
 Ar den of Fever sham, and Fatal Curiosity, was a jeweller living at Rother- 
 hithe in.1735. Swift's Captain Lemuel Gulliver was a native of the 
 place : 
 
 " In five long years I took no second spouse; 
 What Redriff wife so long hath kept her vows?" 
 
 Gay's Epistle Mary Gullive- to the Captain. 
 
 A fire, June 1, 1765, destroyed here 206 houses, and property worth 
 lOOjOOOJ. In 1804, a tunnel from Rotherhithe, beneath the Thames, to 
 Limehouse, was commenced by Vasey and Trevethick, but failed. The 
 "Thames Tunnel," by Brunei) commences at a short distance east of St. 
 Mary's church. The Docks at Rotherhithe are described at page 254. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS (THE) 
 
 Occupies the east wing of the National Gallery in Trafalgar-square. 
 The entire building is described at p. 548. The Academy originated 
 in a Society of Artists in Peter's-court, St. Martin's-lane.* With its 
 apparatus Hogarth established the Society of Incorporated Artists, who 
 held their first Exhibition at the house of the Society of Arts, in the 
 * This Society (according to Edwards) was formed from a " Life School," or 
 Living Model Academy, which was established in the house of Peter Hyde, a 
 painter, in Greyhound-court, between Milford-lane and Arundel-street, Strand, 
 tinder the direction of Mr. Morer, afterwards the first keeper of the Royal Aca- 
 demy. The School removed to Peter's-court about 1739. The houses in Grey- 
 hound-court were taken down between 1851 and 1854. 
 
ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS. 653 
 
 Adelphi, April 21, 1760; next in Spring Gardens. In 1768 certain 
 artists seceded from the Society, were constituted a "Royal Academy," 
 removed to Pall Mall, and elected Reynolds president (at the first ex- 
 hibition, in 1769, there were 136 pictures, and only three sold) ; and 
 George III. granted them, in 1771, apartments in Old Somerset House. 
 The Foundation consists of 40 Royal Academicians ; 20 Associates, 
 from whom the members are chosen to fill up vacancies; and six Asso- 
 ciate Engravers. The Academicians elect from among themselves an- 
 nually the President ; they also appoint a Secretary and Keeper. The 
 Council of eight members elect among the body Professors of Painting, 
 Sculpture, and Architecture; and appoint a Professor of Anatomy, 
 who must be a surgeon. Dr. Johnson was first Professor of Ancient 
 Literature ; and Dr. Goldsmith, Professor in Ancient History, was suc- 
 ceeded by Edward Gibbon. Lectures are delivered to the students and 
 exhibiting artists, free of expense: and prize medals are awarded bien- 
 nially and annually. Students are also sent to Rome at the expense of 
 the Academy. The members are under the superintendence and control 
 of the Queen, who confirms and signs all appointments. 
 
 Among the Foundation Members of the Academy -were Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 (President) ; Sir William Chambers, the architect of Somerset House ; Gains- 
 borough and Wilson, the eminent landscape-painters; Benjamin West (the 
 second President); Joseph Wilton, the sculptor; F. Bartolozzi, the engraver; 
 Charles Catton, Master of the Painter-Stainers' Company; and Angelica Kauft- 
 man and Mary Moser. (See Zoffany's Picture of the Royal Academicians, 1773.) 
 Upon the rebuilding of Somerset House, apartments in the western 
 wing were given to the Academicians ; and the first Exhibition here 
 was opened May 1780. 
 
 The Library ceiling was painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Cipriani : the 
 centre, by Reynolds, represents " the Theory of Painting," a majestic female, hold- 
 ing compasses and a label inscribed, " Theory is the knowledge of what is truly 
 nature." The four compartments, by Cipriani, were personifications of Nature, 
 History, Allegory, and Fable. The Council-room was painted by West : centre, 
 the Graces unveiling Nature, surrounded by figures of the Four Elements ; oval 
 pictures of Invention, Composition, Design, and Colouring, by Angelica Kauff- 
 man ; medallions of Apelles, Phidias, Apollodorus, and Archimedes; and a circle 
 of chiaroscuro medallions of Palladio, Bernini, Michael Angelo, Fiamingo, Raf- 
 faelle, Dominichino, Titian, and Rubens, painted by Rebecca. 
 
 In 1838 the Academy removed to the National Gallery. They pos- 
 sess a library of prints, and books on art (see page 464), which is open 
 I to students. Here are also several pictures by old masters. The School 
 for Drawing from the Antique is held in the Sculpture- room ; the School 
 for Painting in the West Room ; and the School for Drawing from the 
 Life-model is held in the interior of the dome of the edifice. In the 
 Hall of Casts (mostly presented by George IV., and procured through 
 the intervention of Canova) are a beautiful group of Niobe and her 
 Daughters ; the graceful Mercury of the Vatican ; Fauns with their 
 Cymbals; the Egyptian Jupiter, and the Olympian; Apollo and the 
 Muses ; the Laocoon ; the Fighting and Dying Warrior ; a mutilated 
 remnant of a statue of Theseus, &c. Upon the ceiling of the Council- 
 room are the paintings, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and other Academicians, 
 transferred from the Library and Council- room at Somerset House. 
 
 The Diploma Pictures and Sculptures (each member presenting 
 a work of art upon his election) are placed in the Council-room, and 
 include Sir Joshua Reynolds's full-length portrait of George III.; 
 Fuseli's " Thor battering the Serpent of Midgard in the boat of Hymer 
 the Giant;" a Rustic Girl, by Lawrence; the Tribute-Money, by Cop- 
 ley ; Charity, by Stothard ; Jael and Sisera, by Northcote ; the Falling 
 Giant, by Banks ; and Apollo and Marpessa, and a cast of the Shield 
 of Achilles, by Flaxman ; Christ blessing little Children, by West ; 
 
654 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Boys digging for a Rat, by Wilkie ; Opie's Infancy and Age ; portrait 
 of Gainsborough, by himself; Sir William Chambers, by Reynolds: and 
 Sir Joshua in his doctor's robes, by himself. Cupid and" Psyche, by 
 Nollekens ; bust of Flaxman, by Baily ; West, by Chantrey, &c. 
 
 There are, also, a celebrated copy, size of the original, of the Laafl 
 Supper, by Leonarda da Vinci, made by his pupil, Marco d'Oggioneyv 
 copies of the Descent from the Cross, and the two Volets, by Rubens^ 
 made by Guy Head; and copies of the Cartoons of Raffaelle, by ThornJ 
 hill, the size of the originals. Also, small copies in oil of the freJ 
 coes by Raffaelle in the Vatican; two fine Cartoons (the Holy Family j 
 and St. Anna, and Leda,) by L. da Vinci; bas-relief in marble of the i 
 Holy Family, by Michael Angelo, presented by Sir George Beaumont, &c.| 
 Among the memorials preserved by the Academy are two palettes on 
 Reynolds and Hogarth. The Diploma Pictures, &c. may be seen byl 
 application in writing to the Keeper of the Gallery. 
 
 The Exhibition is opened annually on the first Monday in May ; ad-1 
 mission 1*., catalogue 1*.: it closes the last week in July. All workal 
 sent for exhibition are submitted to the Council, whose decision is final! 
 The number of works in the year's Exhibition averages 1500; and 
 the receipts during the season average 6000/. 
 
 The qualifications for becoming a Student of the Royal Academy are, an apl 
 proved drawing or model by the applicant, and testimony of his moral character;! 
 and next, an approved drawing or model of an antique figure in the AcademyJ 
 accompanied by outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not Jess] 
 than two feet high, with list, references, &c. A similar rule applies to Architec-i 
 tural Students. 
 
 The Annual Dinner is given by the Academicians on Saturday pre-| 
 vious to the opening of the Exhibition, in the West Room, where] 
 hung the massive chandelier presented to the Academy by George IV. J 
 
 ROYAL EXCHANGE. 
 See EXCHANGES, pp. 273-286. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTION (THE), 
 
 21 Albemarle-street, Piccadilly, was founded in 1799, "for diffusing the 
 knowledge, and facilitating the general introduction, of useful mecha- J 
 nical inventions and improvements ; and for teaching, by courses of 
 philosophical lectures and experiments, the application of science to the j 
 common purposes of life:'' hence the motto of the Institution. Illus- 
 trans commoda vitas. It was incorporated in 1800. The Institution 
 has been worthily designated as "the workshop, of the Royal Society;" 
 for within its laboratory Sir Humphry Davy made those brilliant dis- 
 coveries which were published through the medium of the Trans- 
 actions of the Royal Society ; and the example of Davy has been fol- 
 lowed by Faraday. Sir Joseph Banks, Count Rumford, and Mr. 
 Cavendish were among the founders of the Royal Institution. In the 
 basement was an experimental kitchen, with Rumford stoves, roasters, 
 and boilers ; apparatus for heating water by steam, &c. ; a workshop 
 for coppersmiths and braziers. Above are a laboratory, lecture-theatre, 
 museum, library (see page 464). and model repository. Here Davy gave 
 his first lecture, April 25, 1801 ; and in 1807 discovered by galvanism 
 the composition of the fixed alkalis, and their metallic bases, potassium 
 and sodium : his great voltaic battery consisted of 2000 double plates 
 of copper and zinc, of 4 inches square, the whole surface being 128,000 
 square inches. Davy was succeeded by Brande; and Faraday fills a 
 second chair of Chemistry, the Fulleriam founded by John Fuller, Esq., 
 whose bequests have amounted to 10,000?. The niineralogical collec- 
 tion in the museum was commenced by Davy. 
 
ROYAL SOCIETT. 655 
 
 The history of chemical science dates one of its principal epochs from the 
 undation of the laboratory of the Royal Institution. Here the researches of 
 avy and Faraday extended over nearly half a century: including the laws of 
 ectro-chemical decomposition, the decomposition of the fixed alkalis, theestab- 
 shinent of the nature of chlorine, the philosophy of flame, the condensibility of 
 nany gases, the science of magneto-electricity, the twofold magnetism of matter, 
 nd the magnetism of gases. Here Coleridge gave his celebrated Lectures on 
 oetry. Among the Mss. in the Library are fifty-six volumes of Letters, &c. 
 especting the American War ; Papers of Lord Stanhope ; and the Laboratory 
 ote-Books of Sir Humphry Davy. 
 
 Terms of admission : election by ballot; entrance-fee, five guineas; annually, 
 ve guineas. Meetings on Friday evenings; lectures weekly. 
 
 The Institution building, originally five houses, received its present 
 irchitectural front, by L. Vulliamy, in 1839. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY (THE), 
 
 omerset House, is the oldest society of its kind in Europe, except the 
 ..yncean Academy at Rome, of which Galileo was a member. The 
 Royal Society originated in London, about 1645 in the weekly meet- 
 igs of '' divers worthy persons inquisitive into natural philosophy, and 
 ther parts of human learning; and particularly the new philosophy, or 
 xperimental philosophy ;" these meetings being first suggested by 
 'heodore Haak, a German of the Palatinate, then resident in the me- 
 ropolis. This is supposed to be the club which Mr. Boyle, in 1646, desig- 
 ated <e the Invisible or Philosophical Society." They met at Dr. God- 
 ard's lodgings in Wood-street ; at the Bull-head Tavern, Cheapside ; 
 nd at Gresham College. About 1648-9, some of the members, including 
 )r. (afterwards Bishop) Williams, removed to Oxford, and were joined 
 y Seth Smith, Ralph Bathurst, Sir William Petty, and the Hon. Robert 
 Boyle, who met at Petty's lodgings in an apothecary's house, "because 
 f the convenience of inspecting drugs." The members in London con- 
 inued also to meet, until, in 1658, they were ejected from Gresham 
 College, which was required for barracks. Evelyn, Cowley, and Sir 
 Villiam Petty proposed separate plans for a " philosophical college :" 
 >prat says that Cowley's proposition accelerated the foundation of the 
 ?oyal Society, in praise of which he subsequently wrote an ode. At 
 ;he Restoration, in 1660, the meetings were revived ; and April 22, 
 663, the Society was incorporated by royal charter, by Charles II., 
 who bestowed upon it a mace. From this session date the Philo- 
 ophical Transactions, wherein the proceedings and discoveries of the 
 :>ociety are registered. This year the Society exercised their privilege 
 f claiming the bodies of criminals executed at Tyburn, which were to 
 >e dissected in Gresham College. In 1664, the King signed himself in 
 he charter-book as the founder; and his brother, the Duke of York, 
 igned as a fellow.* In 1667 Chelsea College was granted to the So- 
 iety, for their meetings, laboratory, repository, and library ; but the 
 milding was too dilapidated, " the annoyance of Prince Rupert's glass- 
 louse" adjoined it, and the property was purchased back for the King's 
 ise for 1300Z. The Society then resumed their meetings in Gresham 
 College, until they were dispersed by the Great Plague and Fire, after 
 vhich they met in Arundel House. The Fellows now (1667) num- 
 >ered 200, and their subscription Is. per week ; from the payment of 
 which Newton, who joined the Society in 1674, was excused, on account 
 
 * The first charter (in Latin) has ornamented initials, and a finely executed 
 >ortrait of Charles II. in Indian ink. The charter empowers the President to 
 'ear his hat while in the chair; and the Fellows addressed the President bare- 
 eaded, till he made a sign for them to put on their hats : customs now ob- 
 olete. 
 
656 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of his narrow finances : in this year he made his first communication 
 to the Transactions of discoveries by him in 1666. 
 
 In 1674 the Society returned to Gresham College. They were 
 fiercely attacked : a "Warwick physician accused them of attempting to 
 undermine the Universities, to bring in popery and absurd novelties ; 
 but a severer satire was The Elephant in the Moon, by Butler. 
 Among their early practices was the fellows gathering May-dew, and 
 experimenting with the divining-rod; and the Hon. Robert Boyle be- 
 lieved in the efficacy of the touch of Greatrix the Stroker for the evil. 
 In 1686 Newton presented his Principia to the Society, whose clerk, 
 Halley the astronomer, printed the work: the Ms., entirely in New- 
 ton's hand, is preserved in the library. In 1703 Newton was elected 
 president. In 1710 the Society removed to a house in Crane-court, 
 " being in the middle of the town, and out of noise : ? ' here they first 
 met Nov. 8th, and established their library and museum, described at 
 page 541. In 1782 they removed to Somerset House, and transferred 
 most of their olden Curiosities to the British Museum ; but in Crane- 
 court the meeting-room is preserved in the same condition as when 
 Newton sat in the presidential chair. (See page 237.) 
 
 The Society's apartments are in the east wing of the north front of 
 Somerset House. The meeting-room has one of Chambers's enriched 
 ceilings : the president's seat is carved with the Society's arms ; an<^. 
 upon the table are placed, during meetings, three crowns and the mace. 
 
 The Mace is silver-gilt, about 4 feet in length, and weighs 190 oz. avoirdupois: 
 its stem is chased with the thistle, and has an urn-shaped head, surmounted 
 by a crown, ball, and cross. Upon the head are embossed figures of a rose, harp, 
 thistle, and fleur-de-lis, and the initials C. R. four times repeated. Under the 
 crown are chased the royal arms ; and at the other extremity of the stem are two 
 shields, one bearing the Society's arms, the other a Latin inscription denoting 
 the mace to have been presented to the Society by Charles II. in 1663. It was 
 long believed by numberless visitors to be the " bauble" mace turned out of the 
 House of Commons by Cromwell, when he dissolved the Long Parliament ; but 
 Mr. Weld, the assistant secretary and librarian, in a communication to the So- 
 ciety, April 30, 1846, proved this to be a popular error, by showing the warrant 
 for making this mace and delivering it to Lord Brouncker, the first President of 
 the Society. Again, the "bauble" was altogether different in form from the 
 Society's mace, and was nearly destitute of ornament, and without the crown 
 and cross, as described in Whitelock's Memorials, and represented accordingly in 
 West's picture of the Dissolution ot the Long Parliament. 
 
 The Society possess marble busts of Charles II. and George III., 
 by Nollekens; Sir Joseph Banks, by Chantrey; John Dollond, by 
 Garland ; Davies Gilbert, by Westmacott ; Sir Isaac Newton, by Rou- 
 bili^c ; Laplace ; Mrs. Somerville, by Chantrey ; James Watt, after 
 Chantrey ; and Cuvier, in bronze. 
 
 Among the pictures are, three portraits of Sir Isaac Newton, 
 P.R.S., by Jervas, Marchand, and Vanderbank ; Viscount Brount-ker 
 (first president), by Sir P. Lely ; Sir Humphry Davy, P.R.S., by Si 
 T. Lawrence : John Evelyn, Secretary, by Kerseboom ; two portraits 
 of Flamsteed,'bv T. Gibson ; Martin Folkes, P.R.S., by Hogarth ; Ben- 
 jamin Franklin,"LL.D. ; Davies Gilbert, P.R.S., by Phillips ; two por- 
 traits of Halley, Secretary, by Murray and Dahl ; two of Hobbes, by 
 Dobson, one a" copy ; Marquis of Northampton, P.R.S., by Phillips; 
 Pepys, by Kneller ;" Sir John Pringle, P.R.S., by Reynolds ; and the 
 Presidents, Sir Hans Sloane, Lord Somers, Sir R. Southwell, Sir J. 
 Williamson, and Sir Christopher Wren, by Kneller; and Dr. Wollaston, 
 bv Jackson ; Dr. Thomas Young, by Briggs : Dr. Dalton, by Faulkner; 
 the Duke of Sussex, P.R.S.,by Phillips ; Dr. Birch, by Wills. (See List 
 in Weld's History.) The Society's relics of Newton are described at 
 page 542. Here also is one of the earliest of Count Rumford s 
 
ROYAL SOCIETY. 657 
 
 fire-grates ; and to the Society's collection of scientific and mechanical 
 instruments was added, in 1850, the original model of Davy's safety- 
 lamp, made by Sir Humphry's own hands, and described by him to the 
 Society in 1816. Here likewise is a very delicate balance, constructed 
 by Ramsden, and formerly belonging to Sir Joseph Banks. Upon his 
 decease, the secretaries wrote to his widow, apprising her that this 
 balance was lying in the apartments of the Society, and requesting to 
 know her wishes respecting it.. " Pay it into Coutts's," was Lady 
 Banks's reply. Weld s Hist. Royal Society, vol. ii. p. 116. 
 
 Here also is the Exchequer standard yard set off upon the Society's 
 yard : it is of brass, and is of great value since the destruction of the 
 parliamentary standard. In the Hall is the Society's standard baro- 
 meter ; also the water-barometer, made by Professor Daniell, whose 
 last official service was the refilling of this instrument, in 1844. 
 
 The presidents have given conversazioni at their private residences 
 since the presidency of Sir Joseph Banks. In the rooms are displayed 
 [working models of new inventions, beautiful specimens of the arts, 
 &c. The Duke of Sussex received the fellows at Kensington Palace. 
 The Earl of Rosse was elected president in 1849. The affairs are 
 jmanaged by the council ; and committees of Mathematics, Astronomy, 
 Physics, Chemistry, Zoology, Botany, and Mineralogy. The meetings 
 ire held on Thursday evenings, from November to June inclusive. 
 The anniversary is St. Andrew's day, Nov. 30th. The subscription is 
 /. annually; admission -fee, 101. The Society distributes four gold 
 nedals annually, the Rumford, two Royal (value 50 guineas each), 
 ,nd the Copley ; and from the donation-fund men of science are assisted 
 n special researches. 
 
 The Charter-book is bound in crimson velvet, with gold clasps and corners, 
 nd inscription-plates, 1. The Shield of the Society; 2. Crest : an eagle or, holding 
 shield with the arms of England. The leaves are fine vellum, and bear, superbly 
 mblazoned, the arms of England and the Society ; next, the third charter and 
 tatutes (60 pages). Autographs (1st page) :' ornamented scroll-border and royal 
 ilhield, above the signatures, " CHARLES R., Founder" ^written Jan. 9th, 1664-5); 
 jl* JAMES, Fellow ;" and " GEORGK RUPERT, Fellow." In the next page are the 
 Autographs of various foreign ambassadors ; and the third and succeeding pages 
 pntain the signatures of the fellows beneath the obligation which holds each 
 baf : Clarendon, Boyle, Wallis, Wren, Hooke, Evelyn, Pepys, Norfolk, Flam- 
 teed, and Newton, are here (the name beneath that of Newton is nearly obli- 
 [brated by the sad habit of touching). Seventy-one pages are occupied by the 
 mtographs of the fellows (including those on the foreign list). Here are the 
 Jatographs of the successive kings and queens of England, and many sovereigns 
 It foreign countries who have visited England. Queen Victoria has signed her 
 lame as patron of the Society; and on the same richly illuminated page are the 
 Signatures of Prince Albert and the kings of Prussia and Saxony. Weld's H is- 
 Vry of the Royal Society, vol. i. p. 177 (abridged). 
 
 jl The Royal Society Club was originally formed in 1743, as "the 
 dlub of the Royal Philosophers:" they meet on Thursday at dinner; 
 Ijid in the minute-book are entries of presents of venison, salmon, tur- 
 |3, and roasting-beef. The Club first met at the Mitre Tavern, Fleet- 
 Jreet; next, in 1780, at the Crown and Anchor Tavern, Strand; on 
 Ihich becoming a club-house, they removed to Freemasons' Tavern, 
 lireat Queen-street. In 1847 was formed a similar association of 
 binent fellows, as " the Philosophical Club." 
 I ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATUKE, see page 465. 
 i ROYAL SOCIETY or MUSICIANS, see page 455. 
 
 u u 
 
658 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 SAVOY (THE). 
 
 On the spot which still bears this name, but is now partly occnpieJ 
 by the northern approach to Waterloo Bridge and the buildings of LanJ 
 caster-place, the powerful Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicester, posJ 
 sessed a palace, the site of which was granted by Henry III. to Peter] 
 Earl of Savoy. This palace was bestowed by the Earl on the fraterJ 
 nity of Mountjoy, of whom it was purchased by Queen Eleanor for hen 
 second son, Edmund Earl of Lancaster. It was magnificently rebuill 
 by Henry, first Duke of Lancaster. Here was confined John King on 
 France, taken prisoner by Edward the Black Prince, at Poictiers, in 
 1356; "and thyder came to se hym the kyng and the quene often] 
 tymes, and made hym gret feest and'cheere :"" he was released in 1360| 
 but returning to captivity, died in the Savoy, " his antient prison," " 
 1364. The demesnes descended to John o'f Gaunt : here the 
 Chaucer was his frequent guest ; some of his poems were written 
 the Savoy ; and Chaucer's Dream allegorises his own marriage v 
 Philippa, a lady of the duchess' household. But Gaunt, a Wicklif 
 had his palace attacked by the Londoners in 1377. In 1381 it was bur 
 by Wat Tyler's rebels : the costly plate and furniture were destroyed 
 thrown into the Thames, and the great hall and several houses we 
 blown up. Shakespeare lays a scene of his Richard II. in a room of 
 Savoy, which, however, was then in ruins: thus it lay until lo 
 when Henry VII. commenced building here an Hospital of St. J( 
 the Baptist, "to receive and lodge nightly one hundred poor folk 
 and the buildings were completed by Henry VIII. In 1553 the 
 pital was surrendered to Edward VI., who "bestowed its bedding 
 revenues on the newly-erected Bridewell and Christ's Hospital. Thai 
 Savoy was re-endowed and refurnished by Queen Mary, and mainJ 
 tained by Elizabeth ; but the buildings and revenues were shamefull 
 perverted, and it became "a nursery of rogues and masterless men. 1 ! 
 Here, in 1658, the Independents met, and agreed upon their welll 
 known Declaration of Faith ; three years later was held here the " Savofj 
 Conference" for the revision of the Liturgy ; and Charles II. established) 
 here " the French Church in the Savoy."* The Mastership of the SavoM 
 was promised to the poet Cowley by Charles I., and afterwards bjcj 
 Charles II., who, however, gave the office to Dr. Killigrew ; upon 
 
 of the 
 
 also, 
 
 Hospital; and great part of it was dilapidated by fire. On the demo 
 
 * The first five churches in London appropriated to the Protestants of France 
 were the old Temple in Threadneedle-street, and those of the Savoy. Marylebone, 
 and Castle-street ; and a church in Spitalfields, added upon the application of the- 
 consistory to James II. To these were successively added twenty-six others, mostly 
 founded during the reigns of William III., Queen Anne, and George I. : That 
 of Leicester-fields, founded in 1688, of which Saurin was minister; that of Spring-v 
 gardens, whose first pastor was Francis Flahaut: tl<at of Glasshouse-square,-, 
 formed in 16S8; Swallow- street, Piccadilly, 1692; Berwick-street, 1689; Charen-i 
 ton, in Newport-market, 1701 ; West-street, Seven Dials, which the refugees 
 called the Pyramid, or the Tremblade; the Carre, Westminster, 1689; the Taber- } 
 nacle, 1696; Hungerford, 1689, which subsisted until Ib32; the Temple of Soho, 
 or the Patent, erected in 1689; Ryder's-court, 1700; Manin's-lane, City, 1686; St. 
 James's, 1701 ; the Artillery, Bishopsgate, 1691; Hoxton, 174S; St. John, Shore- 1 
 ditch, 1687; the Patent, in" Spitalfields, or the New Patent, 1689: Crispin- street, 
 1693; Peart-street, 1697; Bell-lane, Spitalfields, 1718; Swanfields. 1721; Wheeler- , 
 street, Spitalfields, 1703; Petticoat-lane, Sp:talfields, 1694; Wapping, 1? 
 Blackfriars. 1716. Several of these churches ultimately adopted the Anglicar 
 ritual. Weiss's Hist. French Protestant Refugees, 1854. 
 
SEWERS. 659 
 
 lition of the old church of St. Mary-le-Strand, by the Protector Somer- 
 set, the Hospital church was allotted to that parish ; and it was changed 
 from St. John Baptist's to St. Mary's Church, which is described at 
 page 147. Here is a tablet to the memory of Richard Lander, the tra- 
 veller in Africa ; and in the burial-ground is the tomb of Hilton, the 
 historical painter. 
 
 Contemporary with the Fleet and May-fair marriages, the priest at 
 
 the Savoy Chapel carried on a like traffic; and in the Public Advertiser, 
 
 Jan. 2, 1754, marriages are advertised, by authority, to be performed 
 
 here " with the utmost privacy, decency, and regularity ;" also, registers 
 
 irom the time of the Reformation were kept here ; and "there are five 
 
 rivate ways by land to this chapel, and two by water." The chapel 
 
 [so possessed the privilege of sanctuary; and in July 1696, a creditor 
 
 oing into the Savoy to demand a debt oif a person who had taken sanc- 
 
 uary there, was seized by the mob, "according to their usual custom" 
 
 =ays the Postman, No. 180), and was tarred and feathered, and carried 
 
 n a wheelbarrow to the Strand, and there bound fast to the Maypole, 
 
 ntil rescued by constables. The Hospital was finally dissolved 1702. 
 
 Strype describes the Savoy House, in 1720, as very ruinous, but the 
 recinct containing "divers good houses:" and here were the King's 
 rinting-presses, for proclamations, acts of parliament, gazettes, &c.; 
 ext, a prison ; thirdly, a parish church, and churches for the French, 
 'utch, High Germans, and Lutherans, and for Protestant Dissenters. 
 The German-Lutheran Church has been rebuilt.) A scarce etching, by 
 [ollar, shows the river front of the Savoy in 1650; and it is seen in 
 analetti's views on the Thames. The demesne was surveyed by Vertue 
 r the Vetusta Monumenta, 1736 : it was a massive brick, stone, and 
 int, fortress-like building, embattled throughout ; the outer walls 
 butted upon the Thames, where was a flight of steps to the water ; 
 le Strand front had large pointed windows, and parapets lozenged 
 irith flints. Vertue's ground-plan shows the Middle Savoy Gate, where 
 avoy-street now is; and the Little Savoy Gate, where now are Savoy- 
 teps (a triple flight) ; also Nutt's printing-office ; and the warehouse 
 ? Vaillant, the Strand bookseller. Pennant describes the building in 
 le form of a cross, with the walls entire to his time. Until its demoli- 
 on, on the erection of Waterloo Bridge in 1816, the Savoy was prin- 
 pally used as barracks for soldiers, and a prison for deserters (see page 
 37). Wellington-street and Lancaster-place cover the entire site of 
 he old Duchy-lane, as well as most of the Hospital. 
 
 The first manufactory of flint-glass in England was established in 
 e Savoy House, in 1552. 
 
 SEWERS. 
 
 The passenger who rolls smoothly over the well-paved roadway of the 
 netropolis, or elbows his way through the dense mass of human beings 
 vhich throng the foot- pavement, rarely thinks of the vast reticulation 
 f subterranean channels by which are removed the liquid refuse of the 
 aillions inhabiting the banks of the Thames. Yet during dry weather, 
 le aggregate liquid refuse of the metropolitan population, contributed 
 y hundreds of thousands of inlets and smaller drains, amounting to 
 bout 14,000,000 cubic feet, or 87,000,000 gallons daily, is discharged by 
 ewers. Their utility in times of rain is more striking. The area of the 
 letropolis is about 112 square miles the more closely-populated por- 
 ion may, perhaps, be taken at about 60 square miles ; and if we assume 
 rain of about half an inch in depth equally over the whole of the latter 
 rea in 24 hours (a rate of fall not unusual), then, during a considerable 
 jortion of the time, in addition to the sewage from the houses, a quantity 
 
660 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of water of about 18,000,000 gallons per hour is discharged by the London I 
 sewers. Hence it has been said : " although, considering the immense 1 
 progress made of late years in hydrodynamical engineering, our system -j 
 of sewerage is rude and incomplete, the sewers of London are as far j 
 superior to those of any other city in modern Europe, as those of Rome I 
 were to any city in the ancient world." Weale's London, page 820. j 
 
 The population of the London district, increased in 1853 to 2,468,362 inhabi- ! 
 tants, lives in a density varying from 2 persons to an acre at Lewishara, to 284 in".! 
 St. Botolph and Cripplegate ; and to an elevation varying from 2 feet below <] 
 high-water mark at Newington, to 350 feet above it at Hampstead. Yet the. 4 
 health of Londoners, 
 
 "in populous city pent, 
 
 "Where houses thick and sewers annoy the air" (Afilton), 
 contrasts favourably with the health of some of the large towns in England. 
 
 Sewers were partially provided for by statutes of Henry III., VI.,. j 
 VII., and VIII. ; but the first general measure was the " Bill of Sewers," 1 
 in 1531 ; superseded, in 18^8, by the " Metropolitan Commission of-l 
 Sewers," whose jurisdiction extends 12 miles round St. Paul's, and for 4 
 whom a new block plan of the metropolis has been prepared by the | 
 Ordnance Office. By this map, the sewerage amounted to upwards of. d 
 7 millions of cubic feet on the north side of the Thames, and nearly 2J j 
 millions on the south side. The great receptacle is the Thames ; and 1 
 of the new'system, from 1848 to 1854, there were constructed 80 miles- 
 of brick sewers, and 346 miles of pipe-drainage. 
 
 The oldest and largest sewer is the Fleet Sewer, which drains, by 
 many hundred collateral sewers, an area six or seven times the size oj|j 
 the City of London : at one point, the flow is from 18,000 to 20,000 gal- : 
 Ions per minute, in dry weather ; when increased by slight rain, no man 
 can stand against it : in repairs, labourers often work with two-thirds 
 of their bodies in the sewer-water, and amidst its deafening roar, in an * 
 uncertain light. This vast arterial drain is, in fact, a covered river. (See 
 FLEET, page 304; also the King's Scholars' Pond Seicer, page 569.). 
 The new Victoria-street Sewer, from Pimlico to Scotland-yard, dis- 
 charges itself by cast-iron pipes into the Thames at low-water mark. 
 
 SHERIFFS. 
 
 That London had its sheriff prior to the Norman Conquest, is at- 
 tested by William the Conqueror's second charter being addressed to 
 William the Bishop and Sweyn the Sheriff. The union of the sheriff- 
 wick of London and Middlesex took place in the reign of Henry I., of 
 whom the citizens purchased the power of electing the sheriff of Mid- 
 dlesex, "to farm for 300/.:"* the mayor and citizens now hold the 
 office in fee, and appoint two sheriffs for London, which by charters is 
 both a city and a county, though they make but one sheriff jointly for 
 the county'of Middlesex.' The third charter of King John, and the first 
 charter of Henry III., minutely describe the sheriff's office and duties. 
 Any citizen is eligible, unless he swear himself not worth 15.000Z. ; and 
 no alderman can be chosen lord-mayor unless he has served as sheriff. 
 A list of citizens is nominated on Midsummer-day, when two are 
 elected by the Livery in Common Hall; they are obliged to serve, 
 under a penalty of 400Z. and 20 marks ; and the fines paid within the 
 present century have exceeded 70,OOOZ. In 1734 there were fined 31 
 
 * This fee-farm rent has long since been given away by the Crown, is now 
 private property, and is paid half-yearly by the sheriff. In the charters granted 
 to the City of London by Henry II., Richard I., and in the first charter of King 
 John, no mention whatever is made of the sheriffwick. There are many City 
 ordinances for the office of sheriif, disobedience to which is in some cases marked 
 by dismissal. A History of the Sheriffdom was published in 1 723. 
 
SHOREDITCH. G61 
 
 persons, and 11 excused. But the election is sometimes contested, as in 
 1830, when there were six candidates. The sheriffs-elect are presented 
 for approbation to the Cursitor Baron of Exchequer, as the representa- 
 tive of the sovereign, and are sworn, on the morrow of St. Michael, as 
 described at pp. 450-1. The numerous trusts of the sheriffs are mostly 
 performed by the under-sheriffs,but the state-duties by the sheriffs them- 
 selves. They receive from the City about 1000?. during their year of of- 
 fice ; but the state "and hospitality they are expected to maintain usually 
 cost each sheriff upwards of 2000 guineas : for state-chariot, horses, and 
 state-liveries ; the inauguration dinner ; a fourth of the Guildhall din- 
 ner on Nov. 9th ; the Old Bailey dinners (see page 556) ; and meat at 
 the City prisons, which the sheriffs superintend. There is annually 
 subscribed, for the relief of discharged prisoners and their families, a 
 Sheriffs' Fund, humanely founded by Sheriff Phillips in 1807-8, who 
 also wrote and published a volume upon the duties of the office.* The 
 first Jew sheriff was Mr. David (now Alderman) Salomons, 1835; and the 
 first Roman- Catholic sheriff was Mr. Rd. Swift, M.P., 1851 : the latter 
 was attended in state by a Romish priest as his chaplain. A factious 
 sheriff (Slingsby Bethel) is thus commemorated, as Shimei, by Dryden : 
 " No Rechabite more shunn'd the fumes of wine ; 
 
 Chaste were his cellars, and his shriveal board 
 
 The grossness of a City feast abhorr'd; 
 
 His cooks, with long disuse, their trade forgot 
 
 Cool was his kitchen, though his brains were hot." 
 
 Absalom and Achitophel. 
 
 One of the oldest shrievalty customs was that of the lord-mayor 
 drinking to persons for nomination to the office: it was revived in 
 1682, at the request of Charles II., with a factious object ; when She- 
 riffs Shute and Pilkington were committed by the King to the Tower, 
 I upon a false charge of riot. 
 
 Sheriff Hoare has left a journal of his shrievalty, in 1740-41, in his 
 own handwriting: describing his investiture in his scarlet gown, by the 
 gold chain taken off the former sheriff and put on him ; the delivery of 
 the prisoners and prison-keys, and the keeper's treat of sack and wal- 
 nuts, Sept. 28th ; how the sheriffs, April 6th, entertained the Ex- 
 chequer officers with 52 calves'-heads, dressed in different manners ; 
 how, Sept. 2d (anniversary of the Fire of London), the sheriffs went to 
 jSt. Paul's, in their "black gowns, and no chains, and heard a sermon;" 
 low, Sept. 8th, they went with the lord-mayor to proclaim Southwark 
 Fair ; the Christ's Hospital treat of sweet cakes and burnt wine, on St. 
 Matthew's day (Sept. 21st) ; and sack and walnuts on Sept. 28th, when 
 [;he Sheriff returned home, to his " great consolation and comfort." 
 
 SHOREDITCH, 
 
 n ancient manor and parish extending from Norton Folgate to Old- 
 reet, and from part of Finsbury to Bethnal Green. It was originally 
 village on the Roman military highway, called by the Saxons Eald (i. e. 
 )ld) Street. Stow declares it to have been called Soersditch more than 
 LOO years before his time ; and Weever states it to have been named 
 >m Sir John de Soerdich, lord of the manor temp. Edward III.,t an d 
 was with that king in his wars with France. The legend of its 
 ing called after Jane Shore dying in a ditch in its neighbourhood, is 
 popular error, traceable to a black-letter ballad in the Pepys Col- 
 
 A Letter to the Livery of London, on the Office of Sheriff. By Sir Richard 
 jhillips, Knt., one of the Sheriffs of London and Middlesex. 1808. 
 
 t The same family of Soerdich, orShordich, it is:believed, possessed the manor 
 'Ickenham, near Uxbridge, and resided at Ickenham Hall, from the reign of 
 Iward III. to our own time. 
 
662 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 lection, entitled, The Woful Lamentation of Jane Shore, a Goldsmith's 
 Wife in London, some time King Edward IV. his Concubine : 
 " I could not get one bit of bread, 
 
 Whereby my hunger might be fed; 
 
 Nor drink, but such as channels yield, 
 
 Or stinking ditches in the field. 
 
 Thus, weary of my life at lengthe, 
 
 I yielded up my vital strength 
 
 Within a ditch of loathsome scent, 
 
 Where carrion dogs did much frequent : 
 
 The which now, since my dying daye, 
 
 Is Shoreditch call'd, as writers saye." 
 
 But this ballad is not older than the middle of the 17th century ; and no 
 mention is made of Jane so dying in a ballad by Th. Churchyard, dated 
 1587. Dr. Percy erroneously refers Shoreditch to "its being a common 
 sewer, vulgarly shore, or drain." It is sometimes called Sorditch; whichig 
 the most correct, according to the above explanation. An archer of thil 
 parish, named Barlo, was styled " Duke of Shoreditch" by Henry VIII., 
 for having outshot his competitors in a shooting-match at AVindsor; 
 and the Captain of the Company of Archers of London was long after 
 styled "Duke of Shoreditch." In the Beaufoy Collection are four 
 Shoreditch tokens, one with figures of Edward 'IV. and his mistress; 
 and the sign of " Jane Shore" is extant in the High-street. 
 
 St. Leonard's church, at the north end of Shoreditch, is described at I 
 page 134. Near the altar is a tablet to the memory of a descendant of' i 
 the royal house of Hungary ; and in the crypt is the noble altar-tomb j 
 of a descendant of the great John Corvinus Huniades. whose son was i 
 elected King of Hungary. In the belfry are recorded several feats of 
 bell-ringing, including, 16 March, 1777, when ' the College Youths" 
 performed 11,000 changes in 8 hours; adding that their names would be ! 
 handed down to posterity, "insaturated with glory." In the church- 
 yard is buried Gardner, the worm-destroying doctor of Long Acre: his i 
 tomb-stone inscribed, " Dr. John Gardner's (intended) last and best i 
 bed-room." In 1811, a writ of arrest was served by a sheriff's officer 
 upon a dead body, as it was being conveyed to this churchyard ; which 
 occasioned Lord'Ellenborough to declare the process altogether illegal. 
 
 Holywell Lane and Mount ('' heightening of the ground for garden- 
 plots," Stow), and Hoiywell Row, in Shoreditch, are named from a holy i 
 well there, and a house of Benedictine nuns of that name, founded by a 
 Bishop of London, and rebuilt by Sir Thomas Level, of Lincoln's Inn: 
 in St. Leonard's church is some painted glass from one of the Priory 
 windows. " Neare thereunto are builded two publique houses for the 
 acting and shewe of comedies, tragedies, and histories, for recreation. 
 "Whereof one is called the Courtein, the other the Theatre: both standing 
 on the south-west side towards the field." (Stoic, 1st edit, page 349.) 
 Hence the Curtain Theatre, built in Holy well-lane, and Curtain-road: 
 here, at the Blue Last public-house, porter was first sold about 1730. 
 In 1854 were erected Almshouses in Brunswick-street, Hackney-road, 
 for 20 aged women of Shoreditch : the architecture is Jacobean. Shore- 
 ditch is one of the Tower Hamlets, and in 1851 contaiued 109,209 souls. 
 
 SKINNER-STREET AND SNOW-HILL. 
 
 Skinner-street, extending from Newgate-street to Holborn-hill, was 
 built about 1802, to avoid the circuit of Snow-hill, also called Snor, ; 
 Snore, and Sore Hill: the projector of the improvement was Alder- 
 man Skinner. Upon the site of Commercial- place was a large seven- 
 storied house, burnt down in 1813, valued at 25,OOOJ. At No. 41, 
 William Godwin, author of Caleb Williams, kept a bookseller's shop, 
 
SMITHFIELD. 663 
 
 juvenile works under the name of Edward Baldwin: 
 here'is an artificial stone relief of ^Esop narrating his fables to children. 
 Opposite No. 58, in 1817, was hung Cashman the sailor, who had joined 
 a mob in plundering the gunsmith's shop at the above house. 
 
 In a shop-window on Snow-hill, Vandyke saw the picture by Dobson, 
 which led him to seek out the painter in a garret, and recommend 
 him to the king. At the sign of the Star, on Snow-hill, at the house 
 of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, died, 12th August, 1688, John 
 Bunyan, author of the Pilgrim's Progress, and was buried in that 
 friend's vault in Bunhill-fields burial-ground. At No. 37 King-street, 
 Snow-hill, was formerly the Ladies' Charity School, which was esta- 
 blished in 1702, and remained in the parish 145 years. Mrs. Thrale and 
 Dr. Johnson were subscribers to this school ; and Johnson drew from it 
 his story of Betty Broom, in the Idler. In the school minutes, 1763, the 
 ladies of the committee censured the schoolmistress for listening to the 
 story of the Cock-lane Ghost, and " desired her to keep her belief in 
 the article to herself." The School-house is now No. 30 John-street, 
 Bedford-row. 
 
 SMTTHFIELD, 
 
 Anciently just outside the City wall, was the great public walk 
 of the citizens, their race-course, and live market (see page 500). It 
 was a great field for quintain -matches, and was called "Ruffians' 
 Hall," for its frays and common fighting with sword and buckler, 
 superseded by the deadly fight of rapier and dagger. Ben Jonson, in 
 his Bartholomew Fair, speaks of " the sword and buckler age in Smith- 
 field" having but recently passed away ; and in the Two Angry Women 
 ofAbingdon, 1599, complaint is made that " the sword and buckler 
 fight begins to grow out of use." The town-green had its clump of 
 trees, "the Elms," which was the place of public execution until the 
 middle of the 13th century, when it was removed to Tyburn. At the 
 Elms suffered William Fitzosbert (Longbeard) ; here " Mortimer was 
 executed, and let hang two days and two nights, to be seen of the 
 people;" and here perished the patriot Wallace, on St. Bartholomew's 
 even, 1305: the place of blood was in Cow-lane, close to the end of 
 St. John's-court. Upon this field, on Saturday, June 15th, 1381, 
 Richard II. met Wat Tyler and his " shoeless ribalds," the King towards 
 the east, near St. Bartholomew's Priory, and the Commons towards 
 the west ; when Tyler, seizing the boy-king's horse, was stabbed by 
 Walworth, mayor of London ; and a few days after, Jack Straw, the 
 [second rebel in command, was hanged at the Elms. But Smithfield has 
 i its sunnier epoch of jousts, tournaments, and feats of arms. Here 
 [Edward III. commemorated the brilliant realities of Cressy and Poic- 
 ;|tiers; and here the doting monarch feasted Alice Pierce ("the lady of 
 'the sun") with seven days' chivalric sports. Richard II. held " a 
 Ijgreat justing here" in 1390, when was "given first the badge of the 
 j|White Hart, with golden chains and crowns;" and here, in 1396, the 
 j iking celebrated his marriage by three days' tournament. In 1393 
 1 1" certain lords of Scotland came into England, to get worship by force 
 (jof arms in Smithfield" (Froissart). This was likewise the scene of or- 
 jweal combats, when the place of battle was strewed with rushes : here 
 I jwas fought the whimsical combat of Homer and Peter, as told by 
 I iHolinshed, and dramatised by Shakespeare (King Henry VI., Part II.) 
 
 The reality is thus recorded in the Grey Friars' Chronicle, Hen. VI. : " xxv 
 ] iA 0> Thys yere was a fyghtynge in Smytlifelde betwene ane armerar of fletstret 
 jand his servant, for worddes agenst the kynge, whereof hys servant asseld hym ; 
 i aud the servant slew the master in the felde." 
 
664 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the same play (Henry VI.} is the king's sentence : 
 
 " The witch in Smithfield shall be burn'd to ashes." 
 
 The martyrology of Smithfield forms a still more terrible page of its 
 history. Here were burnt the martyrs, from John Rogers, " the proto- 
 martyr of the Marian persecution," in 1555, to Bartholomew Leggatt, 
 in 1611, the last martyr who suifered at the stake in England. Of the 
 277 persons burnt for heresy in the reign of Mary, the great majority 
 suffered in Smithfield : a large gas-light (in the middle of the pens) de- 
 notes the reputed spot ; but the discovery in 1849 of some blackened 
 stones, ashes, and charred human bones, at three feet from the surface, 
 opposite the gateway of St. Bartholomew's church, induces the belief 
 that here was the great hearth of the bigot fires. Charred human bones 
 and ashes were also discovered, at five feet from the surface, at the west 
 end of Long-lane, in July 1854. 
 
 In Smithfield, also, poisoners were "boiled to death" by statute, 
 in the reign of Henry VIII. 
 
 "xiij A- Thys yere was a man soddyne in a cautherne (boiled in a cauldron) 
 in Smythfelde, and lett up and downe dyvers tymes tyll he was dede, for because 
 he wold a poyssynd dyvers persons." 
 
 "xxij A' This yere was a coke boylyd in a cauderne in Smythfeld, for he 
 wolde a powsynd the byshoppe of Rochester, Fycher, with dyvers of hys ser- 
 vanttes ; and he was lockyd in a ehayne, and pullyd up and downe with a gyb- 
 byt, at dyvers tymes, tyll he was dede." 
 
 "xxxiij A 0> The x day of March was a mayde boyllyd in Smythfelde, for 
 
 nsyng of dyvers persons." Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London, edited by 
 Jough Nichols, F.S.A. Printed for the Camden Society, 1852. 
 
 From this Chronicle we learn that the gallows was "set up at sent 
 Bartylmewys gate." The entries of burnings for " errysee" are also 
 very numerous. Burning for other crimes was, however, continued : 
 Evelyn records, "1652, May 10. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miser- 
 able creature burning who had murdered her husband." 
 
 In Stow's time, the encroachments by " divers fair inns, and other 
 buildings," had left but a small portion of Smithfield for the old uses. 
 After the Great Fire, the houseless people were sheltered here in huts. 
 
 Over against Pie-corner is Cock-lane : Goldsmith's pamphlet re- 
 specting the Cock-lane ghost was first included in his collected Works 
 edited by Peter Cunningham, F.S.A., 1854. 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR, held in Smithfield from the reign of Henry I. 
 to our own time, is described at page 30. The Fair was finally abolished 
 in 1853. The Priory Church of St. Bartholomew is noticed at p. 119. 
 
 SMITHFIELD MARKET, see page 500. 
 
 SMITHFIELD, EAST, 
 
 Between Little Tower-hill and Ratcliffe-highway, was, according to 
 Stow, before the reign of King Stephen, made a vineyard by the Con- 
 stables of the Tower, being forcibly taken by them from the Priory of the 
 Holy Trinity, within Aldgate. Here Edward III. founded New Abbey, 
 in 1359, called the White Order, and named Eastminster. Spenser the 
 poet is said to have been born in East Smithfield ; and here, 24th July, 
 1629, Charles I. killed a stag, which he had hunted from Wanstead, hi 
 Essex. (Stow.) A plan of East Smithfield in Elizabeth's reign shows 
 the site of an ancient stone cross, and the stocks and cage. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 
 
 The early history of this Society, from 1707, when the few members 
 first met, " upon pain of forfeiture of sixpence," is noted at page 530 : 
 the plan was drawn up by Humphrey Wanley ; and the minutes date 
 
SOCIETY OF ARTS. 665 
 
 from Jan. 1, 1718, when the members brought to the weekly meetings, 
 coins, medals, seals, intaglios, cameos, manuscripts, records, rolls, gene- 
 alogies, pictures, drawings, &c. The first president was Martin Folkes, 
 1751. The Society occupy apartments in Somerset House, adjoin- 
 ing those of the Royal Society ; and the meetings of "the Royals" suc- 
 ceed those of " the Antiquaries," on the same evenings ; the sessions of 
 the two Societies beginning with the third Thursday in November, and 
 ending with the third Thursday in June. The Antiquaries' anniversary 
 is held on April 23, but the annual dinner was discontinued in 1854. The 
 president is Viscount Mahon, the accomplished historian. Terms of ad- 
 mission reduced in 1853 from 8 to 5 guineas entrance-fee; and from 4 to 
 2 guineas annual subscription. The strict form of admission is by the 
 president or presiding officer placing upon his head a cocked-hat ; in 
 one hand he holds the Society's iron-gilt mace, and with the other hand 
 he welcomes the new Fellow, saying : " By the authority and in the name 
 of the Society of Antiquaries of London, 1 admit you a Fellow thereof." 
 To the names of the members are usually appended F.S.A. The Obliga- 
 tion Book contains the signatures of the leading antiquaries, Fellows 
 of the Society. The Society possess a LIBKABT, noticed at page 458 ; 
 and a MUSEUM, see page 530. A synopsis of the contents of the Mu- 
 seum is presented to the Fellows. The old paintings and memorials in 
 the Meeting-room and Library are curious. 
 
 The Society's Transactions (Arch&ologia), published annually, date from 1770. 
 Among their other publications are Vetusta Monumenta, vol. vi., illustrating the 
 Baieux tapestry; Folkes's Tables of English Silver and Gold Coins; Wardrobe- 
 book of Edward I. ; Ordinances and Regulations of the Royal Households, from 
 Edward III. to William and Mary ; Roy's Military Antiquities of the Romans in 
 Britain ; Account of the Collegiate Chapel of St. Stephen, at Westminster ; Ac- 
 counts of the Cathedrals of Exeter, Durham, and Gloucester, and of Bath and St. 
 Albans Abbey Churches ; Caedmon's Metrical Paraphrase of the Holy Scriptures 
 in Anglo-Saxon. The Society have also published large historical prints of the 
 Field of the Cloth-of-Gold, 1520; Francis I.'s attempt to invade England, 1545; 
 the Procession of King Edward VI. from the Tower to Westminster; Aggas's 
 Plan of London, &e. 
 
 SOCIETY OP ARTS. 
 
 " The Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and 
 Commerce," originated with William Shipley, a drawing-master, and 
 brother to the Dean of St. Asaph. "With the concurrence of Jacob 
 i Viscount Folkestone, Robert Lord Romney, and Dr. Maddox, Bishop 
 'I of Worcester, the Society first met, March 29, 1754, at Rawthmeirs 
 i! Coffee-house, Henrietta-street, Covent Garden : Shipley acting as Se- 
 cretary ; and the plan of the Society being drawn up by William Baker, 
 the microscopist. Oliver Goldsmith took great interest in the early 
 ; proceedings of the Society, in a magazine published by Newbery; and 
 jjthe Doctor was a candidate for the secretaryship. Much attention was 
 ithen bestowed upon "the polite arts:" among the first objects was 
 I 'the offer of premiums for drawings by girls and boys under 16 years of 
 [age. The Society next met, 1754-5, in apartments over a circulating- 
 I library in Crane-court, Fleet-street; next in Craig's-court, Charing 
 I Cross; at the corner of Castle-court, Strand; in 1759 they removed 
 to a house (afterwards Dibdin's Sans Souci) opposite Beaufort-build- 
 Jings; and next to their new house in John-street, Adelphi, in 1774. 
 .i Presidents: Viscount Folkestone, 1755-1761 ; Lord Rodney, 1761-1793; 
 <;he Duke of Norfolk, 1793-1815; the Duke of Sussex, 1815-1843; when 
 I was elected the present President, Prince Albert. 
 
 \ Early Awards of the Society. The first prize to Richard Cosway, then 15. 
 I In 1758, Bacon, the sculptor, for a small figure of Peace ; and he gained 9 other 
 ligh prizes: 1761, Nollekens, for an alto-relievo of Jephtha's Vow, and in 1771 
 
666 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 for a more important piece of sculpture; in 1768, Flaxman, and in 1771 the 
 Society's Gold Medal. Lawrence, when 13, received a silver-cilt palette and 5 
 guineas for his crayon-drawing of the Transfiguration. In 1807, to Sir \Viiliam 
 Ross, then 12. a silver-gilt palette for a drawing of Wat Tyler; in 1810, a similar 
 reward to Sir Edwin Landseer for an etching; and to B. Wyon, in 1818, the Gold 
 Medal for a medal die. Among the other recipients of prizes may be named 
 Allan Cunningham, Mulready, and Millais. 
 
 The first public Exhibition of the works of British Artists was held 
 at the Society's house in the Strand, in 17GO: hence originated the 
 Royal Academy, who, in 1776, with Sir Joshua Reynolds at their head, 
 refusing to paint the Society's Great Council-room at the Adelphi, 
 next year Barry, who had signed the refusal with the rest, volun- 
 teered to decorate the room without any remuneration at all: the pic- 
 tures are described at page 545 : the room is 47 feet in length, 42 
 feet in breadth, and 40 in height. Among the prime objects of the 
 Society were the application of art to the improvement "of design in 
 Manufactures, now developed in "Art Manufactures;" the improve- 
 ment of Agriculture and Horticulture; and in 1783 a reward wag 
 offered for a reaping-machine. The Society has distributed more than, 
 lOOjOOOZ. in premiums and bounties. The growth of forest-trees was 
 one of its early objects of encouragement ; and among the recipients of 
 its Gold Medal (designed by Flaxman) were the Dukes of Bedford 
 and Beaufort, the Earls of Winterton, Upper Ossory. and Mansfield; 
 and Dr. Watson, Bishop of Llandaff. Then came Agriculture, Che- 
 mistry, Manufactures, and Mechanics; including tapestry and the imi- 
 tation of Turkey carpets, Marseilles and India quilting, spinning and 
 lace-making, improved paper, catgut for musical instruments ; straw- 
 bonnets, and artificial flowers. Among the Society's colonial objects 
 were the manufacture of potash and pearlash, the culture of the vine, 
 the growth of silk-worms, indigo, and vegetable oils. Very many 
 rewards have been given by the Society to poor Bethnal-green and 
 Spitalfields weavers, for useful inventions in their manufacture. 
 
 The Society's LIBRARV is described at page 465; and its MUSEUM of 
 Models, and the Pictures and Sculpture, at pp. 544-5. Dr. Johnson says 
 of Barry's paintings, " There is a grasp of mind there which you will 
 find nowhere else." The Society held the first regular Exhibition of 
 Useful Inventions in 1761, when a Mr. Bailey explained the several ar- 
 ticles to the visitors. The Premiums are annually presented in the 
 Great Room, where have been held Exhibitions of Decorative Art, un- 
 equalled in this country. The Society greatly prepared the public mind 
 for the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and here 'Mr. Paxton first developed 
 his plan of its stupendous building, Nov. 13, 1850. Annual Subscrip- 
 tion to the Society, Two Guineas. Among the Special Prizes is the 
 bequest of Dr. Swiney of 100 guineas, in a Silver Cup of the same 
 value, to be given every fifth year for the best treatise on Jurispru- 
 dence ; the Cup, designed by D. Maclise, R. A., is surmounted by 
 figures of Justice, Vengeance/and Mercy ; in the centre is a niello of 
 a hall of justice; and at the base are four kneeling slaves. The Cen- 
 tenary of the Society was celebrated July 1854, by a banquet in the 
 Crystal Palace, Sydehham. 
 
 For many years the office of Secretary was rilled by Arthur Aikin, eldest son 
 of Dr. Aikin, the friend of John Howard, and brother of Lucy Aikin; and who 
 published a Manual of Mineralogy, Arts and Manufactures, and a Chemical Dic- 
 tionary. He died in 1854, ajied 80. Among the Society's Vice Presidents was 
 Thomas Hope, author of some tasteful works on costume, furniture, and deco- 
 ration ; and whose house in Duchess-street was a model of artistic design (de- 
 scribed at page 489): here was a piece of carved furniture, which, many years 
 after it was executed, was specially noticed by Sir Francis Chantrey: on being 
 asked the reason, he replied, " That was my first work." 
 
SOHO. 607 
 
 SOHO, 
 
 A district north-east of Piccadilly, extending to Oxford-street. Mr. 
 Cunningham has found the name " Soho" in the rate-books of St. Mar- 
 tin's as early as the year 1632 ; thus invalidating the tradition by Pegge 
 and Pennant, that Soho* being the watchword at the battle of Sedge- 
 moor, in 1685, it was given to King-square, in memory of the Duke of 
 Monmouth, whose mansion was upon the south side. The boundaries 
 of Soho are Oxford-street, north ; Crown-street, east; King-street 
 south ; and Wardour-street and Princes'-street, west. Soho-square 
 and the adjoining fields passed by royal grants to the Earl of St. Alban, 
 the Duke and Duchess of Monmouth, and the Earl of Portland ; and the 
 streets are named from this appropriation, or from their builders. The 
 houses in Soho-square and the streets adjoining are remarkably well 
 built, and were tenanted by nobility and gentry until our time. Car- 
 li%*i House and Street, named from having been the residence of the 
 Earls of Carlisle, is described at page 391 : here lived Bach and Abel, 
 the musical composers. Greek- street and Church-street are named from 
 the Greek Church in Crown-street. In Greek-street the elder "Wedge- 
 wood had ware-rooms before he removed to St. James's ; and Mr. 
 (after Sir Thomas) Lawrence, R.A., was living here in 1806. In War- 
 dour-street (Old Soho) French Protestants were early settlers, and 
 probably brought the trade in foreign art (see page 246). Berwick- 
 street is described by Hatton (1708) as "a kind of a row ; the fronts of 
 the houses resting on columns, make a small piazza." In Dean-street 
 lived Sir James Thornhill, at No. 75, which has the staircase-walls of 
 his painting ; and at No. 33 died young, in 1819, Harlowe, the painter 
 of the Trial of Queen Katherine. ' Gerard- street is named from Gerard, 
 Earl of Macclesh'eld, the owner of the site, formerly " the Military 
 Garden " of Henry Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. (see page 
 458); and Prince's- street is built upon part of the ground: here, in 
 1718, lived Halley the astronomer. The landlord's title is also pre- 
 served in Macclesfield-street adjoining. In Gerard House lived the 
 rake Lord Mohun. At No. 43 John Dryden resided with his wife, 
 Lady Elizabeth Howard: his study was the front parlour. Dryden 
 died here in 1700; and here took place the disgraceful interference with 
 the poet's funeral procession by a party of drunken mohocks, headed 
 by Lord Jeffries. In Gerard-street lived Edmund Burke at the time of 
 "Warren Hastings' trial ; and at the Turk's Head, in Gerard-street (re- 
 moved from Greek-street, where met the Loyal Association of 1745), 
 Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Burke founded the Literary Club 
 in 1764 (see page 195). Here a Society of Artists met in 1753; and 
 another Society, including West, Wilson, Wilton, Chambers, Sandby, 
 &c., who, from the Turk's Head, petitioned George III. to patronise 
 a Royal Academy of Art. In Gerard-street was formerly the chief 
 receiving-house of the Twopenny Post. Compton-street was built in 
 the reign of Charles II., by Sir Francis Compton ; and Neiv Compton- 
 street was first named Stiddolph- street, after Sir Richard Stiddolph, 
 the owner of the land. Dr. Rimbault, in Notes and Queries, No. 15. 
 (See SQUARES: Soho.) 
 
 The Lion Brewery, in Soho, was formerly the property of the uncle of Sir 
 Richard Phillips, who was brought up in this establishment, to which he was 
 
 * " Soho is the same as ' pray stop'" (Booth's Analytical Diet.) : hence it may- 
 have been applied, in the above instance, to the extension of building in this di- 
 rection, more especially as it AVES prohibited ly a proclamation in 1671. 
 
668 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 heir. This prospective fortune did not, however, overcome his distaste for the 
 business of a brewer; and a passion for literature, and particularly for mathe- 
 matics and experimental philosophy, led him, at the age of 17, to detach himself 
 from his family connexions, and seek his own chance of life. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD, 
 
 Or SOMERSET PLACE, on the south side of the Strand, was com- 
 menced about 1547, by the Protector Somerset, maternal uncle of Ed- 
 ward VI. To obtain space and building materials, he demolished 
 Strand or Chester's Inn, and the episcopal houses of Lichfield, Coven- 
 try, Worcester, and Llandaff, besides the church and tower of St. John 
 of Jerusalem: for the stone, also, he pulled down the great north clois- 
 ter of St. Paul's ; St. Mary's church was also taken down, and the site 
 became part of the garden. The duke's cofferer's account shows the 
 building, in 1551, to have cost 10,091/. (present money, 50,0001.) The 
 architect was John of Padua, contemporary with Holbein ; and tho^e is 
 a plan of the house among Thorpe's drawings in the Soane Museum : it 
 was the first building of Italian architecture erected in England. 
 Stow describes it, in 1603, as " a large and beautiful house, but yet un- 
 finished." The Protector did not inhabit the palace ; for he was im- 
 prisoned in the Tower in 1519, and beheaded in 1552. Somerset Place 
 then devolved to the Crown, and was assigned by Edward VI. to his 
 sister the Princess Elizabeth. 
 
 " Feb. 1566-7, Cornelius de la Noye, an alchymist, wrought in Somerset 
 House, and abused many in promising to convert any metall into gold." Lord 
 Surghley's Note*. 
 
 In 1570, Queen Elizabeth went to the Royal Exchange, " from her 
 house at the Strand, called Somerset House;" it also occurs as " Somer- 
 set Place, beyond Strand Bridge." The queen lent the mansion to her 
 kinsman, Lord Hunsdon, whose guest she occasionally became. At her 
 death, the palace was settled as a jointure-house of the queen-consort; 
 and passed to Anne of Denmark, queen of James I., by whose com- 
 mand it was called Denmark House. Inigo Jones erected " new build- 
 ings and enlargements." Here the remains of Anne and James I. lay 
 in state. For Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I., Inigo Jones built 
 a chapel, with a rustic arcade and Corinthian columns, facing the 
 Thames ; and here the queen established a convent of Capuchin friars : 
 in the passage leading from east to west, under the quadrangle of the 
 present Somerset House, are five tombstones of the queen's attendants. 
 
 From a manuscript inventory in the library of Mr. Gough, " the chappel 
 goods at Somerset House" were numerous and costly. Of the goods and furni- 
 ture appraised in 1649, the arras hangings and tapestry were of great value; the 
 state-beds, pavilions, canopies, cloths-of-state, carpets, mantles, table-linen, &c. 
 were very rich : one of the beds of embroidered French satin was valued at 1000/. 
 Among the pictures was the Madonna by Raphael, valued at 2000/. ; a Sleeping 
 Venus by Correggio, at lOOOf.; and many by Titian, And. del Sarto, Julio Ro- 
 mano, Guido, Correggio, Giorgione, Vandyke, &c. 
 
 Of the tenements " belonging unto Somerset House" (20 inns), the Red Lion, 
 nearly opposite, is the only remaining one among the signs in the list: the sculp- 
 tured sign-stone is built into the house No. 342. 
 
 Inigo Jones died here in 1652. During the Protectorate, the altar 
 and chapel were ordered to be burnt ; and in 1659 the palace was about 
 to be sold for 10,OOOJ. ; but after the Restoration, the Queen-mother 
 Henrietta returned to Somerset House, which she repaired : hence she 
 exclaims, in Cowley's courtly verse : 
 
 "Before my gate a street's broad channel goes, 
 Which still< ith waves of crowding people flows; 
 
SOMERSET HOUSE. 6G9 
 
 And every day there passes by my side, 
 
 Up to its western reach, the London tide. 
 
 The spring-tides of the term. My front looks down 
 
 On all the pride and business of the town." 
 
 Waller's adulatory incense rises still higher : 
 
 " But what new mine this work supplies ? 
 Can such a pile from ruin rise? 
 This like the first creation shows, 
 As if at your command it rose." 
 
 Upon Her Majesty's New Buildings at Somerset House. 
 
 Here was introduced into England the inlaying of floors with co- 
 loured woods. Pepys gossips of " the queen-mother's court at Somer- 
 set House, above our own queen's; mass in the chapel; the garden ; and 
 the new buildings, mighty magnificent and costly," " stately and nobly 
 furnished ;" and " the great stone stairs in the garden, with the brave 
 echo." The queen-mother died abroad in 1669. In 1669-70 the re- 
 mains of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, "lay for many weeks in royal 
 state" at Somerset House ; and thence he was buried with every honour 
 short of regality. Thither the remains of Oliver Cromwell were re- 
 moved from Whitehall, in 1658, and were laid in state in the great hall 
 of Somerset House, " and represented in effigie, standing on a bed of 
 crimson velvet :" he was buried from hence with great pomp and pa- 
 geantry, which provoked the people to throw dirt, in the night, on his 
 escutcheon that was placed over the great gate of Somerset House : 
 his pompous funeral cost 28,000/. On the death of Charles II. in 1685, 
 the palace became the sole residence of the queen dowager, Catherine 
 of Braganza; and in 1678 three of her household were charged with 
 the murder of Sir Edmondbury Godfrey, by decoying him into Somerset 
 House, and there strangling him. (See PRIMROSE HILL, page 629.) 
 The queen had here a small establishment of Capuchins, who inhabited 
 "the New Friary," as did the Capuchins in Henrietta- Maria's time, 
 "the Old Friary :" both are shown in a plan, 1706. 
 
 Strype describes the palace about 1720: its front with stone pillars 
 its spacious square court, great hall or guard-room, large staircase and 
 rooms of state, larger courts, and "most pleasant garden;" the water- 
 gate, with figures of Thames and Isis ; and the water-garden, with foun- 
 tain and statues. Early in the last century, court masquerades were 
 biven here; Addison, in the Freeholder, mentions one in 1716: and in 
 1763 a splendid fete was given here by Government to the Venetian 
 (Ambassadors. In 1771, the Royal Academy had apartments in the 
 jpalace, granted them by George III. In 1775, Parliament settled upon 
 foueen Charlotte Buckingham House, in which she then resided, in lieu 
 jof Old Somerset House, which was given up to be demolished, for 
 the erection upon the site of certain public offices ; the produce of the 
 /pale of Ely House being applied towards the expenses. The chapel, 
 1 Which had been opened for the Protestant service, by order of Queen 
 ( 'Anne, in 1711, was not closed until 1777. The venerable court-way 
 prom the Strand, and the dark and winding steps which led down to the 
 garden beneath the shade of ancient and lofty trees, were the last lin- 
 . Bering features of Somerset Place, and were characteristic of the gloomy 
 i jives and fortunes of its royal and noble inmates. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE 
 
 )ccupies the site of the old palace, an area of 800 feet by 500, or a few 
 eet less than the area of Russell-square. It is the finest work of Sir 
 Villiam Chambers : the first stone was laid in 1776 j and the Strand 
 
670 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 front, 7 stories high, was nearly completed in 1780.* It consists of a 
 rustic arcade basement of 9 arches, supporting Corinthian columns, 
 and an attic in the centre, with a balustrade at each extremity ; the 
 whole in Portland stone. The key-stones of the arches are colossafi 
 masks of Ocean, and the eight gre'at rivers of England the Thames, 
 Humber, Mersey, Medway, Dee, Tweed, Tyne, and Severn sculptured 
 by Carlini and Wilton. In the frieze of the three middle windows are 
 medallions of George III., his queen, and the Prince of V>"ales. In 
 the attic are statues of Justice, Truth, Valour, and Temperance ; tlH 
 summit being surmounted by the British Arms, supported by Fame and 
 the Genius of England. The vaultings of the vestibule are enriched 
 with sculptures from the antique, and are supported by two ranges of' 
 coupled Doric columns. On the east side are the entrances to thfl 
 apartments of the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries, the Royal 
 Astronomical Society, and the Geological Society; and on the west were; 
 those of the Royal Academy, subsequently of the School of Design,- 
 next of the University of London Board. Over the central doorwajB 
 east, is a bust of Newton; west, of Michael Angelo ; by Wilton, R.A. * 
 
 Facing the vestibule is a massive bronze group of George III. lean^j 
 ing upon a rudder, backed by the prow of a Roman (!) vessel, and a 
 couchant lion; and at the monarch's feet is a figure of the Thames, 
 with an urn and cornucopia : the work of John Bacon, R.A.; cost 2000J. 
 
 The inner side of the Strand front has in the attic statues of the 
 four quarters of the globe; and over the centre are the British Arms, 
 supported by marine deities holding a festoon of netting filled with 
 fish, &c. Ornaments of antique altars and sphinxes screen the chim- 
 neys ; and on the key-stones are sculptured masks of tutelar deities. 
 
 The east, west, and south sides of the edifice are Government Offices, 
 which occupy, besides the superstructure, two stories below the general 
 level of the quadrangle, the passages to which are skilfully contrived. 
 The centre of the south side is enriched with Corinthian columns and 
 pilasters, and a pediment with a bas-relief of the arms of the navy of 
 Great Britain, a sea-nymph, sea-horses, andtritons ; trophies, vases/&c. 
 
 The Thames front, 800 feet in length, is in the Venetian style, 
 and is enriched with columns, pilasters, pediments, &c. : at each "ex- 
 tremity is an archway opening to Somerset-place on the west, and 
 King's College on the east ; the latter built by Sir Robert Smirke, in 
 1820, in accordance with Chambers' design. In each end a portico 
 stands on the summit of a semicircular arch, the bases of two out of its 
 four columns resting on the hollow part, giving an air of insecurity in- 
 tolerable in architecture. 
 
 The Terrace is 50 feet in width, and raised 50 feet above the bed of 
 the river, upon a massive rustic arcade, which has a central water-gate 
 surmounted with a colossal mask of the river Thames. The side arches 
 are flanked by rustic columns, and surmounted by stone couchant lions, 
 between 8 and 9 feet in length. The terrace is skirted with a balus- 
 trade ; and here again is a colossal figure of the Thames. The walk 
 was formerly open to the public on Sundays : the prospect includes the 
 river, with its magnificent bridges and picturesque craft; the city, with 
 its domes, towers, and spires ; the forest of masts ; and the Surrey hills 
 on the south : recalling Cowley's lines : 
 
 " My other fair and more majestick face 
 (Who can the fair to mote advantage place ?) 
 For ever gazes on itself below, 
 In the best mirrour that the world can show ; 
 
 * Upon a brick in the wall of the western terrace, or Somerset-place, is cut 
 R.*S. 1780. 
 
SOUTH-SEA HOUSE. 671 
 
 And here behold, in a long bending row, 
 How two joynt cities make one glorious bow; 
 The midst, the noblest place, possessed by me; 
 Best to be seen by all, and all o'ersee. 
 "Which way soe'er I turn my joyful eye, 
 Here the great Court, there the rich Town 1 spy. 
 On either side dwells safety and delight ; 
 Wealth on the left, and Power on the right." 
 
 In the quadrangle are the Admiralty Offices, where are the Model 
 Koom (see p. 541); the Audit Office, the Legacy Duty Office, and Inland 
 Revenue Office (Stamps, Taxes, and Excise). The mechanical stamping 
 is executed in the basement: the presses for stamping postage en- 
 velopes, by Edwin Hill, are the perfection of automatic machinery. In 
 Somerset-place, west, is the office of the Tithe Commission and of the 
 Registrar- General : to the latter are transmitted registers of a million 
 births, deaths, and marriages in a year. 
 
 Over the entrance to the Stamps and Taxes Office, on the south side, is a 
 watch-face, popularly believed to be the watch of a bricklayer, and placed there 
 as a memorial of his life having been saved in his fall, when the wall was build- 
 ing, by his watch-chain catching in some portion of the scaffold. Such is the 
 traditional story; but the watch-face was really put up some forty years since as 
 a meridian-mark for a transit instrument in a window of the Royal Society's 
 ante-room, in the inner face of the north front. 
 
 Telford, the engineer, when he came to London in 1782, got employed 
 on the quadrangle. 
 
 Somerset House is almost the only public building which distin- 
 guishes the reign of George III. : it cost half a million of money by 
 the extant accounts. The style is Italian, "refined to a degree scarcely 
 excelled by Palladio himself .*' (Elmes.) The exterior is the perfection 
 of masonry. The Ionic, Composite, and Corinthian capitals throughout 
 the building were copied from models executed at Rome, by Chambers, 
 from antique originals: the sculptors employed in the decorations were 
 Carlini, Wilton, Geracci, Nollekens, Bacon/Banks, and Flaxman. 
 
 The west wing, left incomplete by Sir W. Chambers, was resumed 
 in 1852 (for the Inland Revenue Office), Pennethorne architect : this 
 wing, 300 feet in length, will face Wellington-street; its south end was 
 completed in 1853: the details are copied from the main building; but 
 the ornamental sculpture is very inferior. 
 
 SOUTH- SEA HOUSE (THE), 
 
 I Threadneedle-street and Old Broad-street, is the office of the South-Sea 
 Company, originated by Harley, Earl of Oxford, and Sir John Blunt 
 (" much-injured Blunt"), in 1711, for the discharge of nearly 10 millions 
 of public debt; for which they were granted, in 1720, the monopoly of 
 I the trade to the South Seas and the mines of Spanish America. In April 
 11720 the Company's stock rose to 319?. per cent ; and early in June it 
 jhad risen to 890?. per cent. The Directors then opened fresh books for 
 a subscription of 4,000,000?. at 1000?. per cent. Before the expiration 
 iof the month, the subscription was at 200?. per cent premium, and the 
 stock at nearly 1100?. Newton, on being asked as to the continuance 
 iof the rising of the South-Sea stock, answered, that "he could not cal- 
 i culate on the madness of the people." Prior writes : " I am tired of 
 (politics, and lost in the South Sea. The roaring of the waves and the 
 tmadness of the people were justly put together." A journal of Aug. 
 |6 says: "Our South-Sea equipage increases every day; the city ladies 
 'buy South-Sea jewels, hire South-Sea coaches, and buy South-Sea es- 
 tates." With the connivance of the Government, the scheme reached 
 this climax, when the frauds of the Directors transpired j within three 
 
672 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 months the stock fell to 861. per cent, and " the South Sea-Bubble' 
 burst. (See EXCHANGE ALLEY, page 272.) 
 
 The South-Sea scheme was lampooned by Swift, and satirised by Pope : 
 
 " Statesmen and patriots plied alike the stocks, 
 Peeress and butler shared alike the box; 
 And judges jobbed, and bishops bit the town, 
 And mighty dukes packed cards for half-a-crown : 
 Britain was sunk in lucre's sordid charms." 
 
 Among the victims was the poor maniac, " Tom of Ten Thousand" (Eustace 
 Budgell), who lost his whole fortune and his reason. The Duke of Chandos lost 
 300,000/. Gay, the poet, possessed 20,0001. South-Sea Stock, which he neglected 
 to sell, and thus lost profit and principal. (See Mackay's Popular Delusions.) 
 
 The Company has long ceased to be a trading body ; and in 1853-4 
 the South-Sea stock, to the amount of 10 millions, was converted or 
 paid off. The original office (formerly the Excise Office) was in Old 
 Broad-street, and was known as " the Old South-Sea House." The' 
 new building in Threadneedle-street has a Doric portico, and incloses a 
 quadrangle, with a Tuscan colonnade and a fountain ; but it has " fewi 
 or no traces of goers-in or comers-out a desolation something like 
 Balclutha's." (C. Lamb.) The great hall for sales and the dining-room 
 are hung with portraits of governors and sub-governors, huge charts, 
 &c. Underneath are vaulted cellars, wherein were once deposited dol- 
 lars and pieces of eight ; but the place is now an uncheery void. 
 
 SOUTHWARK. 
 
 Of the etymology of this ancient suburb, Mr. Ralph Lindsay, F.S.A., 
 has collected ninety-seven authorities, commencing with Suftpepke, dur- 
 ing the Saxon Heptarchy : but there is abundant proof that it was an 
 extensive station and cemetery of the Romans during an early period of 
 their dominion in Britain, attested by the fictile vases and pavements 
 (portions of Roman houses) found in Southwark (see page 651). It was 
 embanked, contemporaneously with the three great Roman roads shown 
 to have terminated in St. George's Fields, and to have communicated 
 with the City by a trajectus, or ferry, over the Thames to Dowgate, 
 from Stoney-street, Bankside ; and another to the Tower, or Arx Pala- 
 tina, from Stoney-lane, Tooley-street. To its fortification may be traced 
 the Saxon name, Sudwerche, the south work of London. It is called 
 Surder-virke in a Danish account of a battle fought here by King Olaf 
 in 1008 ; and Suth-weorce in the narrative of Earl Godwin's attack inr 
 1052, when here was a wooden bridge. Southwark was burnt by 
 William the Conqueror. In Domesday-book the Bishop of Baieux hath 
 here one monastery (Bermondsey), and one haven (St. Saviour's dock). 
 On coins of William I. we find Svethewer, or Svetherk ; on pennies 
 of William II., Svthevk, Svthewi, and Svthewr ; and about 1086, the 
 annual revenue derived from it was only 161. In 1327, upon the com- 
 plaint that Southwark was the refuge of felons and thieves, Ed svard 
 III. sold the vill or town to the citizens of London, the king still being 
 lord of the manor, and appointing the bailiff. Edward IV. granted the 
 citizens an annual fair ; by charter of Edward VI., the full control of 
 Southwark was vested in the citizens ; and by Act of Common Council, 
 1550, it was constituted a ward of the City, by the name of Bridge 
 Without, the first alderman of which was Sir John Ayliffe, 1551. 
 Southwark has sent members to parliament since temp. Edward I. 
 It was formerly famous for its artists in glass, who, temp. Henry VIII., 
 glazed the windows of King's College chapel, Cambridge. 
 
 On July 1, 1450, Jack Cade arrived in Southwark (see page 402) j 
 
SOUTHWARK. 673 
 
 and on Feb. 3, 1554, Sir Thomas Wyat and the Kentyshemen appeared 
 here ; both, probably, in St. George's Fields. 
 
 " At this time was Wyat entered into Kent-street, and so by Sainct George's 
 Church into Southwarke. Himselfe and p.'irt of his comp m\ e cam in goocle array 
 down Barmesey-strete." The Chronicle of Queen Jane, Queen Mary, &c. 
 
 In 1642, Southwark was defended by a fort with four half bulwarks, 
 at the Dog and Duck, St. George's Fields ; a large fort with four bul- 
 warks, near the end of Blackman-street; and a redoubt with four 
 lanks, near the Lock Hospital, Kent-street. 
 
 The ancient town, however, was but a small portion of what we 
 enow as the Borough, and was the Guildable Manor, extending from St. 
 Mary Overy's Dock westward, to Hays-lane, Tooley-street, eastward ; 
 south as far as the Town -hall, thence to Counter-street and St. Mary 
 'Jvery's Dock. The other portions, viz. the King's Manor and the 
 Great Liberty Manor, were not part of the Borough until they were 
 nirchased by the Corporation of London from King Edward VI.; the 
 Corporation being the lords. 
 
 Southwark was first called the Borough in the eighteenth century; 
 t occupies an area nearly equal to that of the City of London itself. 
 The principal street, from the south end of Old London Bridge to St. 
 "Margaret's Hill, was formerly called Long Southward (Howell's Lon- 
 dinopolis). afterwards High-street, but is now Wellington street; thence 
 St. Margaret's Hill; and next, High- street, Blackman-street, and 
 Newington Causeway. 
 
 At No. 6 Blackman-street, Sir James South (eldest son of a dis- 
 >ensing chemist in the High-street) made several valuable astronomical 
 observations. (See KENSINGTON, page 43L) 
 
 At No. 104, High-street, sign of the Golden Key (of which a Token 
 exists), lived Mr. Elliotson, chemist and druggist, father of John 
 Elliotson, M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 The old High-street had many picturesque gabled houses in the pre- 
 ent century, the last of which were removed for the approach to New 
 jondon Bridge (see page 57). On the east side remain several old 
 tins (see page 401): one of the taverns on the west side was "the 
 ?umble-down Dick," in our time painted as a drunken toper, but ori- 
 ;inally a caricature of the downfal of Richard Cromwell, " the New 
 Protector." Nearly opposite the east end of St. Saviour's Church and 
 ;ower, and the Lady-chapel, was built in 1854 a Clock-tower, resembling 
 a market-cross, of Gothic design, with a canopied niche for a statue of 
 he great Duke of Wellington. Adjoining the Railway Stations (see 
 >age 641) was St. Olave's School, taken down in 1849 (see page 218). 
 lere also is ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, described at page 286; and ST. 
 THOMAS'S CHURCH, at page 163. 
 
 Tooley-street (eastward of London Bridge) is corrupted from St. 
 )lave's, or St. Olaff's, street. Here were the Bridge House and Yard, 
 or the stowage of materials for the repairs of London Bridge ; besides 
 orn granaries, public ovens, and a public brew-house : the site is now 
 Cotton's Wharf and Hays's Wharf. 
 
 The Borough Compter, a prison, in Mill-lane, occupies the site of 
 he Inn of the Abbot of Battle, its mill, &c. 
 
 Southwark possessed two Mints for coinage, described at pages 508 
 ind 509 : the ancient mint is thought to have stood upon the site of the 
 louse of the Prior of Lewes, in Carter-lane, nearly opposite St. Olave's 
 Church, in Tooley-street. (See CBYPTS, page 242.) Here too was 
 'the Abbot's Inn of St. Augustine" (deed 1280), afterwards belonging 
 o the St. Leger family: and thence called Sellinger (i. e. St. Leger's), 
 ow Chamberlain's, Wharf. Next was the Bridge-house; and then, 
 
674 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 eastward, the Inn of the Abbot of Battle; and Battle-bridge, over j 
 a water-course pertaining to the Abbej. The Manor of the Maze, Sir ' 
 John Burcettor's, temp. Henry VI., is kept in memory by Maze-lane and 
 Maze-pond ; and upon the site of " St. Thomas's Tents" the Protestant 
 refugees of the Palatinate in Germany "pitched their tents" in the 
 reign of Queen Anne. The Maze was built upon in Aubrey's time. 
 
 Horselydown extends from Tooley-street to Dockhead: it was, temp. 
 Elizabeth, a grazing-field (Horseydowne). Here has been rebuilt, upon 
 a handsome scale, St. Olave's Grammar School for 600 boys (see p. 218). 
 
 " This street, Horselydown, (as 1 was tol'd by a sober counsellor-at-law, and 
 who said he had it from an old record,) was so called, for that the water, formerly 
 overflowing it, was so effectually drawn off, that the place became a plain green 
 field, where horses and other cattle used to pasture and lye down, before the 
 street was built." Haiton, 1708. 
 
 On May 11, 1854, Mr. G. R. Corner, F.S. A., communicated to the Society of Anti- 
 quaries Notices of a Drawing in the Society's possession, being a copy of a picture 
 at Hatfield House, representing a fete on Horselydown; and of a plan of Horsely- 
 down in 1544, belonging to the governors of St. Olave's and St. John's Grammar- 
 School. The picture shows a view of the Tower of London in the distance. 
 The foreground is occupied by holiday groups; cooks are preparing a large repast 
 at a kitchen ; and in the mid -distance are the stocks, with a solitary tenant. 
 Underneath a tree are two figures, supposed to represent Ben Jonson and 
 Shakspeare, who are not unlikely to have been present at this fete. 
 
 The Priory of St. Mary Overie, and Church of St. Saviour, are de- 
 scribed at pages 156-159 : in the Cotton Collection is a book which for- 
 merly belonged to a Prior. 
 
 Montague- close, adjoining St. Saviour's Church, was the cloister of 
 the monastery ; and, after the Dissolution, appertained to the mansion 
 built by Sir Anthony Brown (Viscount Montague), who obtained a 
 grant of the site of the Priory of St. Mary Overie, and the messuages, 
 wharfs, shops, &c. ; and in St. Mary Overy's Dock was the Priory mill! 
 
 Bankside, " the Bank" (Thames-bank in Domesday-book), extends 
 from near St. Saviour's Church to Blackfriars Bridge. Here weretwo j 
 " Beare- gardens, places wherein were kept beares, bulls, and others 
 beasts, to be bayted ; as also mastives, in several kenles, nourished to j 
 bayt them" (Stow). Here Edward Alley n, the founder of Dulwich Col- 
 lege, kept the Bear-garden, temp. Elizabeth and James I.; but "His] 
 Majesty's Bear-garden" was removed to Hockley-in-the-Hole, Clerk-; 
 enwell," in 1686-7: the site of the old Bear-garden is now occupied* 
 by the Eagle Foundry, adjacent to Bear-garden Wharf. Here also] 
 were the Globe, the Rose, the Hope, and the Swan Theatres (seeJ 
 THEATRES). Between the Bear-gardens and the Clinke Prison were 
 the Stew-houses, regulated by parliament as remotely as 1162 (8thj 
 Henry I.): they were held by Walworth, mayor, as lessee under! 
 the Bishop of Winchester, and were spoiled and plundered by Wat 
 Tyler : the allowed stew-houses had their signs painted on their walls j 
 towards the Thames ; as a Boar's Head, the Cross Keys, the Cardinal'M 
 Hat, &c. The stews were put down by sound of trumpet, by Henry VIIL 
 Before the Restoration the theatres had disappeared, and Bankside be-| 
 came the abode of dyers, " for the conveniency of the water." Here 
 are Cardinal's Cap Alley and Pike Garden ; also Rose Alley and 
 Globe Alley, from the old theatres. Pike Garden is named in a 
 parliamentary survey of 1649 as " late parcel of the possessions of 
 Charles Stuart, late king of England ;" and in another survey, made 
 in 1652, occurs " the late king's barge-house, on the Bankside.' 
 
 Winchester House, or Palace, founded about 1107, by Bishop Walter 
 Giffard, with its courts, offices, and water-stairs, occupied great part 
 of "the Bank;" aiid had on the south gardens, statues, fountains, 
 
SOUTH WARK FAIR. 675 
 
 and a spacious park : hence Park-street. The decaying palace was let 
 as warehouses and wharfs ; and the venerable remains of its great hall, 
 with a grand circular gable-window, of rare tracery, were laid open by 
 a fire in August 1814. The Vinegar-works of Messrs. Pott are upon 
 part of the park site, and are held of the see of Winchester. Adjoin- 
 ing was Rochester House, the residence of the Bishops of Rochester : it 
 stood on the north side of the Borough Market-place, part of which 
 vas Rochester-yard; and Rochester-street still exists. This estate, 
 nciently called Grimes Croft, was granted by William, second Earl of 
 tVarren, to the monks of Rochester, by placing his knife upon the altar 
 f St. Andrew. Rochester House was taken down in 1604. 
 
 Deadman's-place, Avest of the market, is said to be corrupted from 
 esmond- place, where dwelt the Earl of Desmond : here are the Col- 
 ;ge founded by Thomas Cure, saddler to Edward VI., Mary, and Eliza- 
 eth ; almshouses built by Edward Alleyn, 1616, and other almshouses. 
 
 Southwark Tokens. In the Beaufoy Collection, at Guildhall, are " the Bore's 
 ead," 1649 (between Nos. 25 and 26 High-street) : it was last leased to the family 
 ' the author of the present volume, and was sublet in tenements, as " Boar's- 
 ead-court," taken down in 1830. Next also is a " Dogg and Dvcke" token, 
 
 651 (St. George's Fields) ; " the Greene Man," 1G51 (which remains in Blackman- 
 reet); "ye Bull Head Taverne," 1667, mentioned by Edward Alleyn, founder 
 
 f Dulwich College, as one of his resorts; " Duke of Suffolk's Head," 1669; and 
 
 ic " Swan with Two Necks." 
 
 Southwark and the adjacent districts are noted for their manufac- 
 ures : as rope-walks and tan-pits at Bermondsey ; barge and boat 
 uilders, sawyers and timber-merchants, at Rotherhithe ; also, hat- 
 naking, brewing, vinegar-yards, and distilleries, glass-houses, potteries, 
 nd soap and candle works. 
 
 The Southwark Arms are, Arg., a rose displayed. The Bridge- 
 ouse mark is usually, but erroneously, used to designate Southwark 
 ecause the manors form part of the Bridge-house estates. That 
 ark is, azure, an annulet ensigned with a cross patee, or, interlaced 
 ith a saltire conjoined in base, of the second. The City jurisdiction, 
 ccording to the inscription upon the boundary -stone at the western 
 xtremity of Bethlehem Hospital wall, and other parts of the liberties, 
 xtends "northward to the Thames, and eastward to St. Thomas-a- 
 Vatering in the Kent-road ; comprehending the parishes of St. George, 
 ;. Saviour (exclusive of the Clink Liberty), St. Thomas, St. Olave, and 
 t. John. (See BERMONDSEY, p. 40. ROTHERHITHE, p. 652.) 
 
 SOUTHWARK FAIR, 
 
 nciently called "Our Lady Faire in Southwark," was granted by 
 dward VI., in 1550, when the sum of 647 J. 2s. Id. was paid to the King 
 
 the Corporation of London for the two manors and divers lands and 
 nements. The Fair, held on September 7th, 8th, and 9ih, was 
 )ened by the lord mayor and sheriffs riding to St. Magnus' Church 
 ter dinner, at two o'clock in the afternoon : the former vested 
 'ith his collar of SS., without his hood; and all dressed in their 
 ;arlet gowns, lined, without their cloaks. They were attended by 
 le Sword-bearer, wearing his embroidered cap, and carrying " the 
 earl sword;" and at the church were met by the aldermen, all 
 
 whom, after evening prayer, rode over the bridge in procession, 
 issed through the Fair, and continued either to St. George's Church, 
 ewington Bridge, or to the stones pointing out the City liberties 
 
 St. Thomas-a- Watering. They then returned over the bridge, 
 
 to the Bridge House, where a banquet was provided, when the 
 dermen took leave of the lord mayor; and all parties being re- 
 rned home, the bridge-masters gave a supper to the lord mayor's 
 
676 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 officers. Sheriff Hoare thus describes the ceremony in 1741: On the 
 8th of September the sheriffs waited on the lord mayor in procession, 
 "the City music going before, to proclaim Southwark Fair, as it is 
 commonly called ; although the ceremony is no more than our going in 
 our coaches through the Borough, and, turning round by St. George's 
 Church, back again to the Bridge House; and this is to signify the 
 license to begin the Fair." " On this day the Sword-bearer wears a 
 fine embroidered cap, said to have been worked and presented to the 
 City by a monastery." Evelyn and Pepys describe the Fair. Jacob 
 Hall was one of its famous rope-dancers; and early in the last century, 
 Crawley's puppet-show of the Creation, " with the addition of Noah's 
 Flood,' Squire and Sir John Spendall ; Dancing Dogs, and " the Ball of 
 Little Dogs," danced before Queen Anne; were Sovthwark Fair sights. 
 Hogarth, in his plate of the Fair, shows Figg the prize-fighter, and 
 Cadman the rope-flyer. In 1743 the Fair continued fourteen days, and 
 extended to the Mint; an attempt was then made to put down the 
 shows, but the Fair was not finallv suppressed until 1763: the booth- 
 keepers used to collect money at their stalls for Marshalsea prisoners. 
 
 SPITALFIELDS 
 
 Includes large portions of Bethnal-green, Shoreditch, Whitechapel, 
 and Mile-end New-town. Part of the site was anciently Lolesicorth, 
 a cemetery of Roman London, in breaking up which, " for clay to 
 make brick," about 1576, were found several urns full of ashes and 
 burnt bones, and copper coins of Claudius, Vespasian, Nero, Anto- 
 ninus Pius, Trajan, &c. ; also fragments of Roman pottery and glass. 
 (See Stow, p. 64.) At the same time were found some stone coffins 
 (British or Saxon), which are preserved in the vaults of Christchurch. 
 
 Spital6elds is named from its having been the site and property of 
 the Priory and Hospital of St. Mary Spittle without Bishopsgate, 
 founded in 1197, by Walter Brune, citizen of London, and Rosia his 
 wife, for Augustine canons; at the Dissolution in 1534 it had 130 
 beds for the receipt of the poor of charity. Bagford, in Leland's Col- 
 lectanea, mentions the priory, then standing, strongly built of timber, 
 with a turret at one angle: its ruins were discovered early in tha 
 last century north of Spital-square. In one of the houses built here 
 lived the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke. At the north-east corner of 
 Spital-square was placed the Pulpit-cross, whence were preached, in 
 the open air, the Spital Sermons* (see p. 123) : the pulpit was destroyed 
 in the Civil Wars. In the map executed in the reign of Elizabeth. the 
 Spittle fields are at the north-east extremity of London, with only a 
 few houses on the site of the Spitai. The map of a century later shows 
 a square field bounded with houses, with the old Artillery Ground oa 
 the west, which had been let by the last prior to the Artillery Com- 
 pany, and is now the site of Artillery -street "A Faire in Spittle- 
 fields" is described in a scarce pamphlet in the British Museum, whereat 
 William Lilly announces his astrological wares for sale ; and Nicholas 
 Culpepper, the herbalist, says: 
 
 " Bid money, tho' but little ; 
 For night comes on, aud we must leave the Spittle." 
 
 Culpepper occupied a house then in the fields, and subsequently a 
 public-house at the corner of Red-Lion-court. Hard by the priory 
 
 * Hatton relates of a Spital- sermon: " In 1632, three brothers, named Wincope, 
 were called from remote places, and preached on the three sermon-days, agreeing 
 so nicely in their subject, that the second continued what the first began, and the 
 third brought it to a conclusion." 
 
SriTALFIELDS. 677 
 
 site is Paternoster-row, where, and not in Paternoster-row, St. Paul's 
 (see p. 608), some antiquaries maintain, Tarlton, the player at the 
 Curtain Theatre, " kept an ordinary in these pleasant fields." Bethnal- 
 green and Spitalfields were grassy open spaces in the last century; but 
 Spital-square, at the south-east corner, has been the heart of the silk , 
 district since "the poor Protestant strangers, Walloons and French," 
 driven from France by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, settled 
 here, and thus founded the silk-manufacture in England ; introducing 
 the weaving of lustrings, alamodes, brocades, satins, paduasoys, du- 
 capes, and black velvets : in 1713 it was stated that silks, gold 
 and silver stuffs, and ribbons, were made here as good as those of 
 French fabric; and that black silk for hoods and scarfs was made 
 annually worth 300,000^. During the reigns of Anne, George I. and 
 II., the Spitalfields weavers greatly increased : in 1832, 50,000 persons 
 were entirely dependent on the silk- manufacture; and the looms varied 
 from 14,000 to 17,000. Of these, great numbers are often unemployed ; 
 and the distribution of funds raised for their relief has attracted to 
 Spitalfields a great number of poor persons, and thus pauperised the 
 district. The earnings of weavers in 1854 did not exceed 10*. per 
 week, working from 14 to 16 hours a- day : the weaving is either the 
 richest or the thinnest and poorest. The weavers are principally 
 English, and of English origin ; but the manufacturers or masters are 
 of French extraction; and the Guillebauds, the Desormeaux, the Cha- 
 bots, and the Turquands, the Mercerons and the Chauvets, trace their 
 connexion with the refugees of 1685. Many translated their names into 
 English, by which the old families may still be known : thus, the 
 Lemaitres called themselves Masters ; the Leroys, King ; the Tonne- 
 liers, Cooper; the Lejeunes, Young; the Leblancs, White; the Le- 
 noirs, Black ; the Loiseaus, Bird, 
 
 The weavers' houses, built in narrow streets, have wide latticed win- 
 dows in the upper stories, which light the work-room. Upon the roofs 
 are bird-traps and other bird-catching contrivances; for the weavers 
 supply London with singing-birds, as linnets, woodlarks, goldfinches, 
 greenfinches, and chaffinches; and many, in October and March, get 
 their livelihood by systematic bird-catching : matches of singing or 
 "jerking" call-birds are determined by the burning of an inch of candle. 
 
 Spitalfields weavers have extremely small heads, 6^, 6f, and 6| 
 inches being the prevailing widths ; and the same fact is observable in 
 Coventry : the medium size of the male head in England is 7 inches. 
 The weavers' practice of singing at their looms was doubtless brought 
 with them from the Continent, as was the custom of woollen-weavers. 
 
 " I would 1 were a weaver, I couid sing all manner of songs." Falstaff, in 
 Henry IV. Part I. act ii. 
 
 " He got his cold with sitting up late, and singing catches with clothworkers." 
 Cubbard, in Ben Jonson's Silent Woman, act iii. sc. 4. 
 
 Spitalfields was a hamlet of Stepney until 1729, when it was made a 
 distinct parish, and Christchurch was consecrated (see p. 123). Among 
 the parochial charities is " cat and dog money," an eccentric bequest to 
 be paid on the death of certain pet cats and dogs. 
 
 Philanthropy is at work in the Ragged School and the Artisans' 
 Home (or club-house). In Crispin-street is the Government School 
 of Design, where are awarded prizes for designs for fabrics, draw- 
 ing and painting from nature, crayon-drawing, &c. Spitalfields Mar- 
 ket is mentioned by Hatton, in 1708, as fine " for flesh, fowl, and 
 roots." In the district is VICTORIA. PARK (see pp. 596-7), and the 
 City Consumption Hospital. 
 
 In Crispin -street, until 1845, the Mathematical Society occupied large apart- 
 ments, for their philosophical instruments and library of 3000 volumes. The 
 
C78 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Society, which also cultivated electricity, was established in 1717, and met at 
 the Monmouth's Head, in Monmouth-street, until 1725, when they removed to 
 the White Horse Tavern, in Wheeler-street; from thence, in 1735, to Ben Jon- 
 son's Head, in Pelham-street ; and next to Crispin-street. The members were 
 chiefly tradesmen and artisans; among those of higher rank were Canton, Dol- 
 , lend, Thomas Simpson, and Crossley. The Society lent their instruments (air- 
 pumps, reflecting telescopes, reflecting microscopes, electrical machines, survey- 
 ing instruments, &c.), with books for the use of them, on the borrowers giving a 
 note of hand for the value thereof. The number of members was not to exceed 
 the square of seven, except such as were abroad or in the country; but this was 
 increased to the squares of eight and nine. The members met on Saturday 
 evenings : each present was to employ himself in some mathematical exercise, 
 or forfeit one penny; and if he refused to answer a question asked by another in 
 mathematics, he was to forfeit twopence. The Society long cherished a taste for 
 exact science; but in 1845, when on the point of dissolution, the few remaining 
 members made over their books, records, and memorials to the Royal Astro- 
 nomical Society, of which these members were elected fellows. Abridged from , 
 Weld's History of the Royal Society, vol. i. pp. 467-8. At Bethnal-green, in 1648, 
 Sir Balthazar Gerbier established " The Academy for Foreign Languages, and -\ 
 all Noble Sciences and Exercises." 
 
 SPRING GARDEN, 
 
 Originally an appurtenance to the palace of Whitehall, and situate on 
 the north-western verge of St, James's Park, is named from its water- 
 spring or fountain, set playing by the spectator treading upon its hidden 
 machinery an eccentricity of the Elizabethan garden. Spring Garden, 
 by a patent which is extant, in 1630 was made a bowling-green by com- 
 mand of Charles I. " There was kept in it an ordinary of six shillings- < 
 a meal (when the king's proclamation allows but two elsewhere) ; con- 
 tinual bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees ; two or three 
 quarrels every week. It was grown scandalous and insufferable : be- 
 sides, my Lord Digby being reprehended for striking in the king's i 
 garden, he said he took it for a common bowling-place, where all i 
 paid money for their coming in." Mr. Garrard to Lord Strafford. 
 
 In 1634 Spring Garden was put down by the king's command, 
 and ordered to be hereafter no common bowling-place. This led to ; 
 the opening of " a New Spring Garden" (Shaver's Hall), by a gentle- 
 man-barber, a servant of the lord chamberlain's. The old garden was, 
 however, re-opened ; for 13th June, 1649, says Evelyn, " I treated 
 divers ladies of my relations in Spring Gardens :" but 10th May, 
 1654, he records that Cromwell and his partisans had shut up and 
 seized on Spring Gardens, " w ch till now had been y e usual rendezvous 
 for the ladys and gallants at this season." 
 
 Spring Garden was, however, once more re-opened ; for, in A 
 Character of England, 1659, it is described as 
 
 " The inclosure not disagreeable, for the solemnness of the grove, the warbling 
 of the birds, and as it opens into the spacious walks at St. James's. * 
 is usual to find some of the young company here till midnight ; and the thickets 
 of the garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry, after they have 
 refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at a certain cabaret 
 in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden fruits are certain trifling tarts, 
 neat's tongues, salacious meats, and bad Rhenish." 
 
 " The New Spring Garden"* at Lambeth (afterwards Vauxhall) was 
 flourishing in 1661-3; when the ground at Charing Cross was built 
 upon, as " Inner Spring Garden" and " Outer Spring Garden." Buck- 
 
 * Named from the Garden at Charing Cross, as we do not trace any " water- 
 spring" at Vauxhall. Sir John Hawkins says: "Sir Samuel Morland having 
 planted the large garden with stately trees, and laid it out in shady walks, it 
 obtained the name of Spring Gardens. There was likewise a ' New Spring 
 Garden' at Pimlico, the name having been applied to a public garden generally." 
 
SQUARES. C79 
 
 ingham-court is named from the Duke of Buckingham, one of the rakish 
 frequenters of Spring Garden ; and upon the site of Drummond's bank- 
 ing-house was " Locket's Ordinary, a house of entertainment much 
 frequented by gentry," and a relic of the Spring Garden gaiety : 
 
 " For Locket's stands where gardens once did spring." 
 
 Dr. King's Art of Cookery, 1709. 
 
 In Spring Garden lived Prince Rupert, from 1674 to his death: 
 
 " 1682, Nov. 29. Died of a fever and pleurisy, at his house in the Spring 
 Garden, Rupert, Prince Palatine of the Rhine, &c., in the 63d year of his age." 
 Historian's Guide, 3d edit. 1688. 
 
 Milton, when first appointed Latin secretary, lodged at one Thom- 
 son's, at Charing Cross, opening into the Spring Garden. Here the 
 witty and beautiful dramatist, Mrs. Centlivre, died, December 1, 1723, 
 at the house of her third husband, Joseph Centlivre, " Yeoman of the 
 Mouth" (head cook) to Queen Anne. Colley Gibber lived " near the 
 Bull-head Tavern, in Old Spring Garden," from 1711 to 1714. Hatton, 
 in 1708, describes: "Spring Garden, near Charing Cross backward, 
 and S.W. from it, between the Red Lion inn (near the S.E. end of the 
 Haymarket) and Wallingford House, near the Horse Guards." 
 
 Spring Garden was formerly noted for its sights : the Incorpo- 
 rated Society of Artists exhibited here ; here, in 1806, at Wigley's 
 Rooms, were shown Serres's Panorama of Boulogne ; foreign cities and 
 sea-pieces; also Maillardet's automatic figures, including a harpsichord- 
 player, a rope-dancer, and a singing-bird. Here also was exhibited 
 Marshall's Peristrephic Panorama of the Battle of Waterloo, which 
 the spectators viewed turning round. 
 
 SQUARES. 
 
 The garden-spaces or planted Squares are the most recreative fea- 
 tures of our metropolis ; in comparison with which the piazze, plazas, 
 and places of continental cities are wayworn and dusty areas, with 
 none of the refreshing beauty of a garden or green field : 
 
 " Fountains and trees Dur wearied pride do please, 
 Even in the midst of gilded palaces ; 
 And in our towns the prospect gives delight, 
 Which opens round the country to our sight." 
 
 Spratt, quoted in Wren's Parentalia. 
 
 Yet the majority of the London Squares are the growth of the last 
 century; and few of the western squares existed before 1770; their 
 sites being then mostly sheep-walks, paddocks, and kitchen-gardens. 
 It was at first attempted to name squares " quadrates : " in 1732 
 Maitland wrote, " the stately quadrate denominated King-square, but 
 vulgarly Soho-square;" and the phrase is retained in his edition of 1756. 
 
 BEDFORD SQUARE, built 1800-6, was formerly "St. Giles's ruins." 
 At No. 6 lived Lord Chancellor Eldon. 
 
 BELGRAVE, CHESTER, and EATON SQUARES, named from their 
 ground-landlord, the Marquis of Westminster, are noticed at page 37: 
 the centres of the first and third were nursery-grounds. At No. 19 
 Chester-square died, in 18S2, Dr. Mantell, F.R.S., the geologist. 
 
 BERKELEY SQUARE, built 1698, is named from Berkeley House, 
 which occupied the site of Devonshire House. On the east side of this 
 square is Lansdowne House (see page 489) : the beehive upon the gate- 
 
 fiers is one of the family crests. At No. 11 died Horace Walpole in 
 797. No 44, built by Kent, has a noble staircase and saloon. At No. 
 45 the great Lord Clive destroyed himself in 1774. A few link-ex- 
 
G80 CURIOSITIES OF LOXDON. 
 
 tinguishers remain flanking doorways: the trees in the centre are old? 
 and picturesque: here was formerly an equestrian statue of George III., 
 by Wilton. 
 
 BLOOMSBUR T, first named SOUTHAMPTON, SQUARK, from Southamp- 
 ton House upon its north side, was built by the Earl of Southampton, 
 whose daughter, Lady Rachel Russell, dates her Letters from here. 
 Evelyn, in 1665, notes it as " a noble square or piazza, a little towne," 
 with "good aire ;" and the Grand Duke Cosmo was taken to see 
 Bloomsbury as one of the wonders of England. Baxter, the noncon- 
 formist divine, lived here when he was persecuted by Judge Jefferies. 
 The Earls of Chesterfield had a mansion here. Sir Hans Sloane lived 
 on the south side; and here Dr. Franklin came to see Sloane's Cu- 
 riosities, " for which," says Franklin, " he paid me handsomely." 
 Dr. Radcliffe lived here when he gave 5201. to the poor rionjnring 
 clergy. Lord Mansfield's house was at the north-east corner, when 
 it was burnt to the walls by the rioters of 1780, and his books, papers, 
 and furniture made into a bonfire in the square. On the north side is 
 a bronze sitting statue of Charles James Fox, by Westmacott. Ralph 
 describes this side as " one of the finest situations in Europe for a 
 palace," with gardens and view of the country. 
 
 BRIDGEWATEB SQUARK, Barbican, was once the site of the mansion 
 and gardens of the Earl of Bridgewater. " The middle is neatly enclosed 
 with palisado pales and set round with trees, which renders the place 
 very delightful." Strype. 
 
 BRUNSWICK and MECKLENBURGH SQUARES, with the Foundling 
 Hospital and grounds between them, form an airy group; northward 
 
 is TORRINGTON SQUARE. 
 
 BRYANSTONE and MONTAGUE SQUARES were built on "Ward's Fi el d, 
 and the site of Apple Village, by David Porter, who was once chimney- 
 sweeper to the village of Marylebone. At St. Mary's church, Bryan- 
 stone-square, June 7, 1838, Miss Landon (L. E. L.) was privately mar- 
 ried, by her brother, to Geo. Maclean, governor of Cape Coast Castle. 
 
 CAVENDISH SQUARE (between two and three acres), named from tha 
 Lady Henrietta Cavendish Holies, the wife of Harley, Earl of Oxford, 
 was planned on the north side of Tyburn-road in 1715, when the lo- 
 cality was infested by footpads, who" often robbed and stripped persons 
 in the fields between London and Marybone. Margaret-street Chapel 
 about seventy vears since was an isolated building in Marylebone- 
 fields : a shady " Lover's Walk" passed close by the chapel to Man- 
 chester-square ; another walk led through the fields to Paddington. 
 The square was laid out about 1717 ; the whole of the north side being 
 taken by " the Grand Duke" of Chandos, who proposed to build 
 here a palatial residence, and to purchase all the property between Ca- 
 vendish-square and his palace of Canons at Edgeware, so that he might i 
 ride from to'wn to the country through his own estate. In the British 
 Museum is a view of the mansion, designed by John Price: the wings 
 only were built; one being the large mansion at the corner of Harley- 
 street, which has been occupied by the Princess Amelia, aunt to 
 George III.; by the Eurl of Hopetown, and the Hopes cf Amsterdam ; 
 next by George Watson Taylor, Esq., who assembled here a very valu- 
 able collection of paintings. The other wing of the Duke's plan is the 
 corresponding mansion at the corner of Chandos-street. The centre 
 is principally occupied by two splendid mansions, with Corinthian 
 columns, designed by James of Greenwich. At this period Harcourt 
 House on the west side was the only other house here : "it presents, with 
 its high court-walls and porte-cochere, more of the appearance of a 
 Parisian mansion than any other house in London." (S. Angcll.} The 
 
SQUARES. 681 
 
 ground was first sold at 2s. 6d. per foot. In the centre of the square Is 
 an equestrian metal statue of William Duke of Cumberland ; and on the 
 south side a colossal standing bronze statue of Lord George Bentinck, 
 third son of the Duke of Portland. Southward is Holies-street, where, 
 at No. 24, Lord Byron was born. 
 
 CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE is described by Hatton (1708) as "a plea- 
 sant place of good (and many new) buildings, the whole in the form of 
 a pentagon." Here was Rutland House, in which the Venetian am- 
 bassadors lodged. Baxter the nonconformist died in this square in 
 .1691. On tho north side is the CHARTERHOUSE (see p. 71). 
 
 COVENT GARDEN, see page 235. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, Bishopsgate Without, "a pretty though very 
 small square, inhabited by gentry and other merchants" (Nation, 1708), 
 was named from the Earls of Devonshire having lived there in a man- 
 sion previously possessed by the Earl of Oxford : " the queen's majesty 
 Elizabeth hath lodged there" (Stow). The mansion was built in the 
 midst of gardens and bowling-alleys, by Jasper Fisher, one of the six 
 Clerks in Chancery, who thereby outrunning his income, the house was 
 mockingly called " Fisher's Folly." It next became a conventicle; 
 hence "Fisher's Folly congregation" (Hudibras). Here Murray and 
 Dockwra set up the Penny Post in 1680. Murray also introduced the 
 Club of Commerce (one of a trade) ; and at Devonshire House he opened a 
 Bank of Credit, where money-bills were advanced upon goods deposited. 
 
 EUSTON SQUARE, St. Pancras, is named from the ground-landlords, 
 the Dukes of Grafton and Earls of Euston. Upon the site of the north 
 side of the square, then a nursery-garden. Dr. Wolcot, the political 
 satirist (Peter Pindar), ended his misspent life in blindness. 
 
 FINSBURY SQUARE was built in 1789, by George Dance, R.A., on 
 the north side of Moorfields. At the south-east corner lived the esti- 
 mable Dr. Birkbeck, the founder of Mechanics' Institutions : he died 
 here December 1, 1841, the eighteenth anniversary of the establish- 
 ment of the first Mechanics' Institution in London. 
 
 FITZROY SQUARE is named from Charles Fitzroy, second Duke of 
 Grafton : the E. and S. sides were commenced by W. and J. Adam in 1790. 
 
 GOLDEN SQUARE, Westminster, "not exactly in anybody's way, 
 to or from any where," was " so called from the first builder, a 
 very new and pleasant square" (Hatton, 1708) ; contemporary evidence, 
 more reasonable than Pennant's hearsay anecdote that the name 
 was Gelding, altered from the sign of a neighbouring inn. One of its 
 earliest inhabitants was Lord Bolingbroke, when secretary-at-war, 
 1704-8. In the centre of the square is an equestrian statue of George 
 II., formerly at Canons, near Edgeware. Golden-square is a locality 
 of Smollett's Humphrey Clinker, and of Dickens's Nicholas Nickleby. 
 
 HAYDON SQUARE, Minories, is named from Alderman Haydon, the 
 ground-landlord. Close by were found, in 1852, sculptured grave- 
 stones and urns ; and in 1853 a sacrophagus ; all of Roman work. In 
 Haydon-square lived Sir Isaac Newton when Master of the Mint : the 
 house was taken down about 1852. Here is Allsopp's Burton Ale Depot, 
 occupying 20,000 square feet; cargoes of ale are sent here from 
 Burton, by railway (140 miles), in an afternoon ; and the platforms 
 and wagons are lowered by hydraulic cranes into the vast cellars. 
 Here also is a spring of pure water, which formerly supplied the 
 priory of the Holy Trinity upon this spot. 
 
 GORDON SQUARE, New-road, has at the south-west angle the Ca- 
 tholic Apostolic Church: cathedral-like Early English exterior, and De- 
 
682 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 corated interior, with a triforium in the aisle-roof; the ceilings are 
 highly enriched, and some of the windows are filled with stained glass; 
 the northern doorway and porch, and the southern wheel-window, equal 
 old examples ; and gothic houses, with projections and gables, pointed- 
 headed windows, and traceried balconies, group around the church: 
 architects, Brandon and Ritchie. 
 
 GOUGH SQUARE, between Fetter-lane and Shoe-lane, contains the 
 house, No. 17, wherein Dr. Johnson compiled most of his Dictionary ; 
 his amanuenses working in the garret. 
 
 GROSVENOR SQUARE, 6 acres, is named from Sir Richard Gros- 
 venor, who died in 1732. The houses, some of rubbed bricks with 
 stone finishings, are spacious. The centre landscape-garden was laid 
 out bj Kent, and the stone pedestal in the centre once bore an eques- 
 trian "statue of George L; the line of fortification during the Civil 
 War ran across the space now the square. It is a place of high fashion ; 
 and Dr. Johnson once desired to be " Grosvenor of that ilk." Here 
 lived Lord North and John Wilkes; and at No. 39 (the Earl of Har- 
 rowby's) His Majesty's Ministers were to have dined on the evening 
 the Cato-street conspirators had planned to assassinate them (see page 
 67). A few iron link-extinguishers remain in front of the houses. 
 
 HANOVER SQUARE, built about 1718, was named in honour of George 
 I., when it was proposed to change the place of execution from Tybura 
 elsewhere, lest the procession of malefactors might annoy the inha- 
 bitants of the new square. Here lived Field-Marshal Lord Cobham, 
 the owner of princely Stowe. Admiral Lord Rodney died here in 1792. 
 On the east side are the Hanover Square Rooms : the great room is 
 90 ft. by 35 ft., and will hold 800 persons; the ceiling was painted by 
 Cipriani. No. 11 is the Zoological Society; No. 12, the Royal Agri- 
 cultural Society ; and on the west side is the Oriental Club (see page 
 196). In Ten terden- street is the Royal Academy of Music, founded 
 in 1S22, incorporated 1830. Upon the south side of Hanover-square is 
 a colossal bronze statue of William Pitt, by Chantrey. 
 
 " This square, in connexion with George-street, has always struck me as one 
 of the most scenic architectural displays that London presents : the street expand- 
 ing towards the square, the unique and elegant style of the surrounding man- 
 sions, the judicious mixture of red brick and stone, Chantrey's statue, and the 
 successful ecclesiastical work of James (St. George's), altogether produce the 
 most agreeable effect." S. Angell. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S SQUARE, between Pall Mall and Jermyn-street, is built 
 on part of St. James's Fields; and Godfrey's print, from a drawing by 
 Hollar, has a stone conduit near the centre of the present square. Mr. 
 Cunningham found several of its tenants rated in the parish-books of 
 St. Martin 's-in-the-Fields in 1676 ; and among them, on the west side, 
 Madame Churchill, mistress of the Duke of York ; and Madame Davis 
 (Moll Davis), mistress of Charles II. On the north side was Romney 
 House, where, in 1695 and 1697, King William III. visited the Earl of 
 Romney, to witness fireworks in the square ; and in the latter year the 
 Dutch Ambassador made before his house a bonfire of 140 pitch-barrels, 
 and wine was " kept continually running among the common people." 
 On the north side also was Ormond House, the mansion of the great 
 Duke of Ormond ; the duchess died here in 1684 : in 1698 the house was 
 let to Count Tallard, the French Ambassador, for 600/. per annum, then 
 a large rent. In the rear of the present houses is Ormond-yard, now a 
 mews. Appletree-yard, opposite, keeps in memory the apple-orchards 
 of St. James's Fields. Hatton describes St. James's-square, in 1708, 
 'very pleasant, large, and beautiful; all very fine spacious buildings 
 (except that side towards Pall Mall), mostly inhabited by the prime 
 
SQUARES. 683 
 
 quality." Sutton Nicholls's print, 1720, shows a fountain in the centre 
 of the square, with a basin, " filled by contract, in 1727, with water 
 from York-buildings." (Malcolm.) A pedestal for an equestrian statue 
 of William III. was erected in the centre of the square in 1732; but the 
 statue, cast in brass by the younger Bacon, was not set up until 1808 : 
 the bequest in 1724 for the cost having been forgotten, until the 
 money was found in the list of unclaimed dividends. The Earl of Rad- 
 nor (d. 1723) had on the north side a mansion, painted by Vanson, 
 over doors and chimney-pieces ; the staircase by Laguerre ; and 
 the apartments hung with pictures by Edema, Wyck, Roestraten, 
 Danckers, old Griffier, young Vandervelde, and Sybricht. Next, No. 7, 
 lived Josiah Wedgewood, and here his stock of classic pottery was dis- 
 persed by auction. No. 2 is Lord Falmouth's: the street-posts are 
 cannon captured by his ancestor, Admiral Boscawen, off Cape Finis- 
 terre. No. 4, Earl de Grey (see page 485), who receives here the 
 Royal Institute of British Architects. No. 6, Marquis of Bristol. No. 
 11, William Wyndham ; Lord Chief Justice Ellen borough in 1814; 
 John Duke of Roxburghe; now the Wyndham Club (see page 199). 
 No. 12, London Library (see page 463) : here lived Lord Amherst 
 when Commander-in-chief. No. 13, Lichfield House, was built by 
 Athenian Stuart for Lord Anson : " from the balcony, on June 20, 
 1815, the Prince Regent displayed the trophies just received from Water- 
 loo to the delighted populace." No. 15 (Sir Philip Francis's) was lent 
 by Lady Francis to Queen Caroline, in 1820, who delighted to show 
 herself at the drawing-room windows, and proceeded from thence daily, 
 in state, to her trial in the House of Lords ; at this time No. 16 was 
 Lord Castlereagh's. No. 17, the Duke of Cleveland's : here is Lely's fine 
 whole-length portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland. No. 19, the Bishop 
 of Winchester. No. 21, Norfolk House (see page 402), occupies the 
 site of the mansion of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, who died here 
 in 1683. No. 22 is London House, rebuilt in 1820 for the Bishops 
 of London. Upon the lower or Pall Mall side lived the father of H. R. 
 Morland, and grandfather of George Morland, all painters. 
 
 LEICESTEB SQUARE (see page 453). 
 
 LOWNDES SQUARE, Belgravia, was built 1837-39, and named from 
 the ground-landlord, W. Selby Lowndes, Esq. The seven houses at the 
 south end, by Lewis Cubitt, resemble an Italian palace, with embellished 
 chimney-shafts, Tuscan cornice, and Venetian balconies. The site of 
 this square was once a coppice, which supplied the Abbot and Convent 
 of Westminster with wood for fuel. 
 
 MANCHESTER SQUARE was begun in 1776, by the building of Man- 
 chester House upon the north side (see page 490). At the north-west 
 corner of the square is Manchester-street, where died, in 1814, the im- 
 postor Joanna Southcott, after imposing upon six medical men with the 
 story of her being enceinte with the young " Shiloh." 
 
 MTDDLETON SQUARE, Islington, near the New River Head, is 
 named from its originator, Sir Hugh Myddleton. 
 
 PORTMAN SQUARE, upon the estate of W. H. Portman, Esq., and 
 once the property of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, was begun 
 about 1764, but not completed until 1784 ; it is 500 ft. by 400. The cen- 
 tre is laid out as a shrubbery wilderness ; and here is a movable kiosk 
 constructed for the Turkish Ambassador about 1808, when he resided 
 at No. 18 : his Excellency customarily took the air and smoked here, 
 surrounded by a party of his retinue. At the north-west angle is Mon- 
 tague House (see page 491): here were the feather-hangings sung by 
 Cowper; here Miss Burney was welcomed, and Dr. Johnson grew tame. 
 
684 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 PRINCE'S SQUARE. "As St. Giles's parish contains the largest 
 square (Lincoln's Inn Fields), so it also may boast of the smallest, which 
 is situated near it, namely, Prince's-square, containing only one house" 
 (Dobie), between Little Queen-street and Gate-street : a stone tablet is 
 inscribed, " Prince's-square, 1736." 
 
 FRINGE'S SQUARE, Ratcliffe Highway. Here is the Swedish Church, 
 in which is interred Emanuel Swedenborg: in the vestry-room are a 
 few portraits, including that of Dr. Serenius, Bishop of Stregnas. 
 About the year 1816 the cranium of Swedenborg was taken from the 
 coffin by a Swedish captain, but was replaced after his death. 
 
 QUEEN SQUARE, Bloomsbury, built in the reign of Queen Anne, 
 has a railed garden for the north side. Jonathan Richardson, the 
 painter, died here in 1745. At the north-west corner Dr. John Camp- 
 bell, editor of the Biographia Britannia, gave his Sunday -evening 
 conversation-parties, at which Dr. Johnson used to meet "shoals of 
 Scotchmen." ( >n the south-west side is the church of St. George-the- 
 Martyr, of which Dr. Stukeley was rector (see page 127) : he lived in 
 the square. No. 12 is a Convent of Sisters of Compassion ; No. 32, of 
 Sisters of the Holy Child; No. 26, the Industrial Home for Gentlewomen. 
 
 QUEEN SQUARE, "Westminster, contains a statue of Queen Anne, 
 mentioned in L708. Here was born, in 1684, Admiral Vernon, the hero 
 of Portobello ; in 1729 the Rev. C. M. Cracherode, who bequeathed his 
 books, medals, and drawings to the British Museum. In this square 
 died, in 1784, Dr. Thomas Franklin, the erudite Greek scholar. (QuEUN 
 SQUARE CHAPEL, see p. 171.) In 1832 died, aged 85, Jeremy Bentham, 
 in Queen Square-place, where he had resided fur nearly half a century. 
 
 RED LION SQUARE, " a pleasant square of good buildings, between 
 High Holborn south and the fields north" (Hatton, 1708), was named 
 from the Red Lion Inn. Here lived the philanthropic Jonas Hanway, 
 to whom we are mainlv indebted for the Marine Society, the Magdalen 
 Charity, and Sunday Schools. Hanway died here in 1786, and was ho- 
 noured with a public funeral. In the centre of the square was "a 
 clumsy obelisk, lately vanished." Pennant. 
 
 RUSSELL SQUARE, north of Bedford-square, occupies part of South- 
 ampton Fields (1720), subsequently Long Fields. Its dimensions are 665 
 ft. 6 in. north side ; 665 ft. 3 in. "south ; 672 ft. 7 in. west ; and 667 ft. 
 1 in. east 2661*5 ft. square, or about 140 ft. less than Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields. In 1800 Long Fields lay waste and useless, with nursery- 
 grounds northwards; the Toxophilite Society's ground north-west; 
 and Bedford House, with its lawn and magnificent lime-trees, south. 
 At the north-east end of Upper Montague-street was "the Field of 
 Forty Footsteps" (see page 291). The east side of the square was the 
 house and gardens of the dissolute Lord Baltimore : the mansion is now 
 two residences. At No. 65 died Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.R. A. At No. 
 67 lived the amiable Sir T. N. Talfonrd. On the north side is the 
 bronze sitting statue of Francis Duke of Bedford, by Westmacott. 
 
 SALISBURY SQUARE (see FLEET STREET, page 306) : at the north- 
 west corner was the printing-office of Richardson, the novelist. 
 
 Sono SQUARE, originally King's-square, was begun in the reign of 
 Charles II. ; the south side consisting of Monmouth House, built by 
 Wren for the Duke of Monmouth, and after his death purchased by 
 Lord Bateman: in 1717 it was an auction-room; part of the site is 
 now occupied by Bateman's buildings. Shadwell, in his plays (1691), 
 mentions " Soho-square ;" but Maitland, in 1739, " King's-square." 
 was then a sort of Court quarter: Evelyn wintered " at Soho, in the 
 great square," in 1690. Bishop Burnet, the historian, lived here before 
 
SQUARES. 685 
 
 he removed to Clerkenwell ; and here his Curiosities included the sup- 
 
 B)sed " original Magna Charta," with part of the Great Seal remaining, 
 ere the shipwrecked remains of Sir Cloudesley Shovel lav in state in 
 1707. Here lived Alderman Beckford ; and thither came the partisan 
 City procession, who prevailed upon Beekford to serve his second 
 mayoralty, in commemoration of which he feasted the poor of St. Ann's, 
 Soho. At the east corner of Sutton-street was Carlisle House, where 
 Mrs. Cornelys gave her concerts, balls, and masquerades ; the present 
 Roman Catholic chapel in Sutton-street having been Mrs. Cornleys's 
 banquetting-room (connected with the house by "the Chinese bridge"), 
 and the gateway (now a wheelwright's) was the entrance for sedan- 
 chairs. In 1772 the "furniture, decorations, china, &c." of Carlisle House 
 were sold by auction ; but it was re-opened in 1774; Mrs. Cornelys re- 
 turned here in 1776 ; and it was next an exhibition-place of " Monstro- 
 sities," a " School of Eloquence," and an " Infant School of Genius ;" it 
 was closed in 1797, and taken down in 1803 or 1804 : some of its curious 
 paintings were preserved; and an account of Mrs. Cornelys's enter- 
 tainments has been privately printed by Mr. T. Mackinlay. (Dr. Rim- 
 bault; Notes and Queries, No. 28.) No. 20, D'Almaine's, with a ban- 
 quetting-room ceiling, said to have been painted by Angelica Kauff- 
 maiin, was built for Earl Tilney by Colin Campbell, architect of 
 Vr r anstead House. No. 32 was Sir Joseph Banks's, P. U.S., now 
 the house of the Linnaan Society (see page 539), exempted from 
 the poor-rate in 1854 on account of its being used for the purposes 
 of science. (Court of Queen's Bench Rep. May 30.) At a house in Soho- 
 square, Richard Payne Knight, the classic antiquary (died 1824), assem- 
 bled his collection of ancient bronzes and Greek coins, value 50,00(V., 
 which he bequeathed to the British Museum. At the corner of Bate- 
 man's-buildings, left, lived George Colman the elder ; and right, Samuel 
 Beazley, the dramatist, and architect of the Lyceum and St. James's 
 theatres. The Soho Bazaar (north-west corner) is described at page 
 35. In the centre of the square is a pedestrian statue of Charles II. (See 
 FOUNTAINS, page 313.) In Frith-street, on the east side of the square, 
 died of cholera, in 1830, William Efazlitt, the eloquent essayist : he was 
 buried in St. Anne's churchyard, where is "a stone raised by one whose 
 heart is with him in his grave." 
 
 TAVISTOCK. SQUARE, New-road, is named from the ground-landlord, 
 the Duke of Bedford, and Marquis of Tavistock. 
 
 Southward is Tavistock-place. At No. 31 lived Mary Ann Clarke, mistress of 
 the Duke of York ; at No. 32, Francis Douce, the illustrator of Shakspeare, and 
 in the same house John Gait when editor of the Courier; at No. 37, Francis 
 Baily, F.R.S., who, in an ohservatory in the garden, weighed the earth, and cal- 
 culated its bulk and figure (see page 286); at No 19, Sir Harris Nicolas, K C.M.G. ; 
 |the peerage antiquary; and at No. 10, John Britton, before he removed to No. 17 
 Burton-street. 
 
 TRAFALGAR SQUARE, Charing Cross, formed by the removal of the 
 llower end of St. Martin's-lane, a knot of courts and alleys, the Golden 
 Cross inn,* and low buildings adjoining, was planned by Barry, and is 
 (named from the last victory of Nelson, to whom a column is erected on 
 jthe south side. (See page 224.) The whole is paved with granite, has 
 two large tanks with fountains (see page 313), and has on the north side 
 a terrace, which imparts elevation to the National Gallery facade. At 
 the north-east and north-west angles are granite pedestals ; the former 
 occupied by Chantrey's bronze equestrian statue of George IV., in- 
 tended for the top of the marble arch at Buckingham Palace. The 
 granite capstan posts in the area are characteristic ; but the square has 
 
 * April 23, 1643, it was ordered by Parliament that the sign of the Golden 
 Cross, at Charing-cross, be taken down, as superstitious and idoiatrous ! 
 
686 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 been condemned as " an artificial stone-quarry." The massive lanterns 
 at the angles were originally designed by Barry for Bude-lights. 
 
 In 1831, upon the ground cleared for Trafalgar- square, was exhibited 
 in a pavilion the entire skeleton of a Greenland Whale, taken off the 
 coast of Belgium in 1827 : total length, 95 feet ; breadth, 18 feet ; width 
 of tail, 22$ feet ; length of head, 22 feet ; height of cranium, 4J feet ; 
 length of fins, 12J feet ; weight of animal, 249 tons, or 480,0001b. ; weight 
 of skeleton, 35 tons, or 70,0001b. ; oil extracted, 4000 gallons. The 
 skeleton was raised upon iron supports, and visitors ascended within 
 the ribs by a flight, of steps. It had been previously exhibited at Paris, 
 where Cuvier and others estimated the age of this whale at from 900 
 to 1000 years. (See Mirror, August 13, 1831.) 
 
 VINCENT SQUARE, Westminster, a portion of Tothill Fields, is named 
 after Dr. Vincent, then Dean of Westminster. Here is the church of St. 
 Mary the Virgin, consecrated 1837 : style, Early Pointed, with lancet 
 windows ; architect, E. Blore. 
 
 WELLCLOSE SQUARE was originally called Marine-square, from its 
 being a favourite residence of naval officers. " It is very near a geome- 
 trical square, whose area is about 2| acres ; it is situate between Knock- 
 fergus north and Ratcliff Highway south." (Haiton, 1708.) Here is 
 the Danish (now Sailors') Church, described at page 164. In Well- 
 street, adjoining, was the Royalty Theatre, burnt down 11 April, 1826 ; ! 
 upon the site was built the Brunswick Theatre ; it was performed in ; 
 only three nights, and fell to the ground Feb. 28, 1828 ; within six 
 months of which was built upon the same site the Sailors' Home. 
 
 WOBURN SQUARE, St. Pancras, named from a seat of the Duke of 
 Bedford, has in the centre a Pointed church, by L. Vulliamy, built in 
 1834 : the spire is 150 feet high. 
 
 STATE COACHES. 
 
 The " glistering coach" (Shakspeare) dates from the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth, who, April 2, 1571, at the meeting of Parliament, rode for 
 the first time in a coach, drawn by tvfo palfreys, covered with crimson 
 velvet housings, richly embroidered : but this was the only carriage in 
 the procession; the Lord Keeper, and the Lords spiritual and temporal, 
 all attending on horseback. In 1588 the Queen went from Somerset 
 Place to St. Paul's Cross, to return thanks after the destruction of the 
 Spanish Armada, in a coach presented to her by Henry Earl of Arun- 
 del, and called by Stow " a chariot-throne." In a print in the Crowle 
 Pennant, in the British Museum, representing Queen Henrietta-Maria 
 doing penance beneath the gallows at Tyburn, Charles I. is seated in a 
 large and ornamented coach ; but this print is apocryphal. 
 
 The Coach of Queen Anne had its panels painted by Sir James Thorn- 
 hill ; and a friend of J. T. Smith possessed a portion of a panel. This 
 coach was used by George I. and II., and by George III. when he first 
 opened Parliament, and also at his marriage; after which it was broken 
 up, and the State Carriage now used by the sovereign was built. 
 
 THE QUEEN'S STATE COACH was designed by Sir William Cham- 
 bers, R.A., who recommended Joseph Wilton, R.A., and Mr. Pugello, 
 to conduct the building of the carriage on premises in Queen-Anne- 
 street East. The model was executed from Chambers' design by 
 Laurence Anderson Holme, a Dane. 
 
 The carriage is composed of four Tritons, who support the body by 
 cables : the two placed on the front bear the driver on their shoulders, 
 and are sounding shells ; and those on the back part carry the imperial 
 fasces, topped with tridents. The driver's footboard is a large scallop- 
 shell, supported by marine plants. The pole resembles a bundle of 
 
STATE COACHES. 
 
 687 
 
 lances ; and the wheels are in imitation of those of ancient triumphal 
 
 chariots. The body of the coach is composed of eight palm-trees, which, 
 
 branching out at the top, sustain the roof: at each angle are trophies 
 
 of British victories. On the centre of the roof stand boy-genii of 
 
 England, Scotland, and Ireland, supporting the imperial crown, and 
 
 lolding the sceptre, the sword of state, and ensigns of knighthood ; 
 
 rom their bodies festoons of laurel fall thence to the four corners of 
 
 ,he roof. The intervals between the palm-trees, which form the body 
 
 >f the coach, are filled in the upper part with plate-glass, and the pa- 
 
 iels below with paintings as follow : 
 
 Front Panel. Britannia on a throne, holding a staff of liberty, attended by 
 leligion, Justice, Wisdom, Valour, Fortitude, Commerce, Plenty, and Victory, 
 >resenting her with a garland of laurel; background, St. Paul's and the Thames. 
 Right Door. Industry and Ingenuity giving a cornucopia to the Genius of 
 England. Side Panels. History recording the reports of Fame, and Peace 
 mrning the implements of War. 
 
 Back Panel. Neptune and Amphitrite in a car drawn by sea-horses, attended 
 >y the Winds, Rivers, Tritons, Naiads, &c., bringing the tribute of the world to 
 Britain. 
 
 Upper Part of Back Panel. The Royal Arms, ornamented with the order of 
 St. George, the Golden Fleece, the rose, shamrock, and thistle entwined. 
 
 Left Door. Mars, Minerva, and Mercury supporting the imperial crown. 
 Side Panels. The Arts and Sciences protected. 
 
 The body is lined with scarlet embossed velvet, superbly laced and 
 smbroidered with the star, encircled by the collar of the order of the 
 Barter, and surmounted by the imperial crown, pendant the George 
 and Dragon; in the corners, the rose, shamrock, and thistle entwined. 
 The badges of St. Michael, St. George, the Guelph and Bath, St. An- 
 drew, and St. Patrick are also among the embroidery. The hammer- 
 cloth is of scarlet velvet, with gold badges, ropes, and tassels. The 
 ength of the carriage and body is 24 feet ; width, 8 feet 3 inches ; 
 leight, 12 feet ; length of pole, 12 feet 4 inches ; weight, 4 tons. The 
 carving was mostly executed by Nicholas Collett, a little man, whom 
 "Waldron the actor (originally a carver in wood) delighted to call " a 
 Giarrick of a carver." The panels were painted by Cipriani, who re- 
 ceived for the same 8001. The chasing was executed by Coit, the 
 coachwork by Butter, the embroidery by Barrett, the gilding (triple 
 ;hroughout) by Rujolas, the varnishing by Ausel, and the harness by 
 Ringstead. The whole cost was as follows : 
 
 Coachma 
 
 Carver 
 
 Gilder 
 
 Painter 
 
 Laceman 
 
 Chaser 
 
 Harness! 
 
 Mercer 
 
 Beltmaker 
 
 Milliner 
 
 Sadler 
 
 Woollen 
 
 Covermaker 
 
 7528 4 3| 
 
 The bill was 80007. ; but being taxed, was reduced as above, the odd 
 pence arising from the ribbon-weaver's bill. The superb hammer- 
 cloth, of scarlet silk Genoa velvet, with gold badges, fringes, ropes, and 
 tassels, was renewed in 1838. The Royal State Coach was first 
 used Nov. 16, 1762. Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann : 
 
 " There is come forth a new state coach, which has cost 8000/. It is a beau- 
 tiful object, though crowded with improprieties. Its supports are Tritons, not 
 
 ker (including Wheelwrignt and Smith) 
 
 
 1637 15 
 2500 
 935 14 
 315 
 737 10 7 
 665 4 6 
 385 15 
 202 5 10* 
 99 6 6 
 31 3 4 
 10 16 6 
 436 
 396 
 
 laker 
 >r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 raper 
 ser . 
 
 
 ; ' 
 
688 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 very well adapted to land-carriage ; and formed of palm-trees, -which are as little 
 aquatic as Trituns are terrestrial. The crowd to see ir, on the opening of the 
 Parliament, was greater than at the coronation, and much more mischief done." 
 
 The Coach was kept in a mean shed at the King's Mews, Charing 
 Cross; upon the taking down of which, it was removed to the Royal 
 Mews, Pimlico, where also is kept the State Harness for the eight 
 horses by which the carriage is drawn when used by the sovereign. 
 The Coach and Harness may be inspected upon application. (See 
 MEWS, ROYAL, p. 505.) 
 
 THE LORD MAYOR'S STATE COACH is kept at the City Green-yard, 
 Whitecross-street, Cripplegate, opposite the Debtors' Door : the coach 
 may be here inspected. It was built in 1757, by a subscription of 601. 
 from each of the junior aldermen, or such as had not passed the civic 
 chair. Subsequently, each alderman, when sworn into office, contri- 
 buted GO/, towards keeping the coach in repair; for which purpose also 
 each Lord Mayor gave 100/. In a few years, the whole expense fell upon 
 the Lord Mayor, and in one year it exceeded 300Z. The coach was then 
 transferred to the Corporation, and it has since been kept in repair bv 
 the Committee of General Purposes. Twenty years after its construc- 
 tion, the repairs in one year cost 3357. ; and the average of seven years' 
 repairs in the present century was ]15/. The design of the coach is 
 more magnificent than graceful: the carriage consists of a pair of 
 grotesque marine figures, who support the seat of the driver, with a 
 large escalop- shell as a foot-board ; at the hind-standard are two children 
 bearing the City arms, beneath which is a large pelican ; the perch is 
 double, and terminates in dolphins' heads; and the four wheels are 
 richly carved and gilt, and resemble those of ancient triumphal chariots. 
 The body is not hung upon springs, but upon four thick red leather 
 straps, fastened with large gilt-brass buckles of spirited design, each 
 bearing the City arms. The roof was originally ornamented with eight 
 gilt vases; in the centre is a leafy crown, bearing the City arms, and 
 from which small gilt flowers trail over the remainder of the roof, 
 painted red : originally, a group of four boys supporting baskets of 
 fruit and flowers occupied the centre. The upper intervals of the 
 body, save at the back, are filled with plate-glass ; and the several lower 
 panels are painted as follow : 
 
 Front Panel. Faith supporting a decrepit figure beside a flaming altar; Hope 
 pointing to St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 B'ick. Chaiity ; a wrecked sailor, with a ship in the offing, and two females 
 casting money and fruits into his lap. 
 
 Upper Back. The City, attended by Neptune ; Commerce introducing the 
 Arab with his hoise, and other traders with the camel, elephant. &c. 
 
 Right Door. Fame, with her wreath, presenting a Lord Mayor to the City, 
 who bears The sword and sceptre, the mace, &c., at her feet. In the very small 
 panel beneath are fruit and flowers. Side Panels. Beauty with her mirror; 
 female with bridled horse, &c. 
 
 Left Door. The City seated, and Britannia pointing with her spear to a 
 shield inscribed with " Henri Fitz-Alwin, 1189" (the first Mayor). In the very 
 small panels beneath are the scales of justice and sword of mercy, grouped. 
 Sid". Panels. Justice with her scales and sword ; Prudence, &c. 
 
 The original heraldic paintings were executed by Catton, one of the 
 foundation members of the Royal Academy. In shields at the lower angles 
 of each door, and of the back and front panels, are emblazoned the arms 
 of the Lord Mayor for the time being. The framework is richly carved 
 arid gilt : over each door is an escallop-shell; and at the lower angles of ') 
 the body are dwarf figures emblematic of the four quarters of the globe. 
 The smaller enrichments about the panels, as shells, fruits, and flowers, 
 are admirably carved and grouped: over the upper back panel is an 
 exquisite bit a serpent and dove. The perch and wheels are painted 
 
STATE COACHES. 689 
 
 ed, picked out with gold; and. massive gilt bosses cover the wheel- 
 oxes : the wheels were renewed in 1828. The coach is lined with 
 rimson corded silk and lace ; and in the centre is a seat for the mace 
 nd sword bearers. The hammercloth is crimson cloth, but the original 
 ne was of gold lace. 
 
 This coach was repaired, new-lined, and re-gilt in 1812, at an ex- 
 ense of 600/., when also a new seat-cloth was furnished for 90J. ; and 
 n 1821 the re-lining cost 206/. In 1812, Messrs. Houlditch agreed to 
 eep the coach in fair wear-and-tear for ten years, at 48?. per annum, 
 'he total weight of the coach is 3 tons I6cwt. : it is drawn by six 
 orses, for whom a superb state harness was made in 1833, that for each 
 orse weighing 106 Ibs. 
 
 It is not positively known by whom this Coach was carved, nor 
 y whom the panels "were painted, Cipriani is stated by some to 
 e the painter; but others assert that after the present Royal State 
 3oach was built in 1762, the old Royal State Coach was purchased by 
 ic City of London, and the panels repainted by Dance : such is the 
 tatement of Smith, in Nollekens and his Times ; but in the Report 
 f the Municipal Corporation Commissioners, the City Coach is stated 
 o have been built in 1757. The Lord Mayor rode in state upon horse- 
 ack until 1712, when a state carriage, drawn by four horses, was first 
 sed. In 1741 the horses were increased to six. This State Coach is 
 epresented in Hogarth's print of the Industrious Apprentice, date 1747 ; 
 
 is somewhat plain, but has ornamental vases upun the roof. (See 
 ORD MAYOR'S STATE, page 474.) 
 
 Our Lord Mayor and his golden coach, and his gold-covered footmen and 
 oachman, and his golden chain, and his chaplain, and his great sword of state, 
 ease the people, and particularly the women and girls, and when they are 
 eased the men and hoys are pleased ; and many a young fellow has been more 
 ndustrious and attentive from his hope of one day riding in that golden coach." 
 -Cobbett. 
 
 THE SPEAKER'S STATE COACH is traditionally said to have been 
 Oliver Cromwell's ; but it is more probably of the'time of William the 
 'bird. It is elaborately carved and heavily gilt. Figures of naval and 
 nilitary prowess, Plenty, &c., support the body ; the box is held by two 
 irger figures of Plenty ; the hammercloth is of crimson velvet, trimmed 
 nth silver fringe ; and the footboard is borne by two lions, and sur- 
 nounted with a large grotesque mask. The hind-standard is richly 
 arved with figures and devices of antique and modern design. The 
 ramework of the panels is finely carved; and the roof has a pierced para- 
 et or border. The upper, side, and front panels are filled with splendid 
 
 s are painted with emble 
 
 plates of glass. The lower panels are painted with emblematic 
 ubjects : the door-panel has a seated figure of Britannia, to whom female 
 gures are bringing fruits, the horn of plenty, &c. The opposite door 
 as also a seated figure, and another presenting the Bill of Rights, with 
 .liberty, Fame, and Justice. Beneath each door and panel are sculp- 
 ;ured maces, surmounted with a cap, emblematic of the Speaker's au- 
 ihority. In the four side panels are emblematic figures of Literature, 
 Architecture, Science, and Plenty. The back panel has a better compo- 
 jition of Britannia, wearing a mural crown ; St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 (hipping, &c., in the distance. The front panel also bears several 
 illegorical figures. In the lower part of the pictures in the principal 
 aanels are emblazoned the Speaker's arms, and in the side-panel pic- 
 sures his crest. The coach is lined and trimmed with dark crimson 
 velvet ; it has two seats, and a centre one : on the latter sit the Speaker's 
 tface-bearer and Sword-bearer ; and his Chaplain and Train-bearer sit 
 'acing the Speaker. This coach is used by the Speaker on opening 
 ?arliament, presenting addresses to the sovereign, attending levees, &c., 
 
690 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 when it is drawn by a pair of horses in state harness. The coach was 
 removed in 1854 from Prince's-street, to the New Palace, Westminster. 
 
 STATUES. 
 The following are the principal out-door Statues in the metropolis : 
 
 STATUES. SITES. SCULPTORS. SEE P. 
 
 "Achilles" .... Hyde Park Westmacott. 586 
 
 This group is strangely miscalled " Achilles;" it being copied from one of the 
 statues on Monte Cavallo, at Rome, which are called Castor and Pollux by the 
 Italian antiquaries Venuti and Vasi, and by Flaxman named Bellerophon. 
 
 Albert, Prince . . . Lloyd's, Royal Exchange . Lough. 279 
 Alfred, King . . . Trinity-square, Newington. 
 
 Anne, Queen of Jas. I. Temple Bar Bushnell. 704 
 
 Anne, Queen . . . Queen-square, Bloomsbury. 684 
 
 Anne, Queen . . . Queen-square, Westminster. 684 
 
 Anne, Queen . . .St. Paul's Churchyard . . F. Bird. 95 
 Aske, Robert . . . Haberd. Almsh., Boston. 
 
 Bedford, Duke of . . Russell-square Westmacott. 684 
 
 Bentinck,Lord George Cavendish-square .... Campbell. 681 
 Canning, George . New Palace-yard .... Westmacott. 
 Cartwright, Major . Burton-crescent .... Clarke. 
 
 Charles I Charing Cross Le Sceur. 71 
 
 "This noble equestrian statue," says Walpole, "in which the commanding 
 grace of the figure and the exquisite form of the horse are striking to the most 
 unpractised eye, was cast in 1633, on a spot of ground near the church in Covent 
 Garden ; and not being erected before the commencement of the Civil War, it was 
 sold by the Parliament to John Rivet, a brazier, living at the Dial, near Holborn 
 Conduit, with strict orders to break it in pieces. But the man produced some 
 fragments of old brass, and concealed the statue and horse underground till the 
 Restoration." M. d'Archenholz relates " that he cast a vast number of handles 
 of knives and forks in brass, which he sold as made of the broken statue. They 
 were bought with eagerness by the Royalists, from affection to their monarch by 
 the rebels as a mark of triumph over their murdered sovereign." Walpole adds 
 that " they had been made at the expense of the family of Howard-Arundel;" 
 but Mr. Cunningham refers to a memorandum in the State-Paper Office, from 
 which he concludes this statue to have been ordered by the Lord Treasurer 
 Weston, afterwards Earl of Portland, of Hubert Le Sceur, " for the casting of a 
 horse in brasse, bigger than a great horse by a foot ; and the figure of his Majesty 
 King Charles proportionable, full six foot ;" to be set up in the Lord Treasurer's 
 gardens at Roehampton, in Surrey (see Handbook of London, 2d edit. p. 106). At 
 the Restoration,* an order of replevin was issued by the House of Lords, upon the 
 information of the Earl of Portland (son of the Lord Treasurer), for the recovery 
 of the statue from Rivet ; but it was not set up until 1674, when Waller wrote his 
 courtly lines " On the Statue of King Charles I. at Charing Cross." There is an 
 idle story that Le Soeur, having finished the statue, defied any one to point out a 
 defect in the work ; when, on a person denoting the absence of the girth, the 
 sculptor, in a fit of indignation, destroyed himself. The assertion of the horse 
 not having a girth is quoted by Malcolm from The Medley for August 1719; but 
 there is a girth, which passes over a very strong rein on the right. In 1810, the 
 sword, buckles, and straps fell from the statue ; and about the coronation of 
 Queen Victoria, in 1838, when seats were erected round the group, the sword (a 
 rapier of Charles's period), was stolen. The George pendent from the ribbon has 
 also been taken away, as denoted by the vacant hole in the metal where the 
 George should hang. 
 
 The stone pedestal, sculptured with the royal arms, trophies, &c., was long 
 admired as the work of Gibbons; but a written account proves it to be by Joshua 
 
 * In this year a statue of the King was restored in the City: " May 7, ]fi60. 
 Charles the First his Statue set up again in Guildhall-yard." Histor. Guide, 1688-. 
 
STATUES. C9J 
 
 Marshall, Master Mason to the Crown. On the 29th of May (Restoration Day) 
 this statue was formerly decorated with boughs of oak. In the spring of 1853 a 
 cast of the statue and pedestal was taken hy Brucciani, for the Crystal Palace at 
 Sydenham : fur the moulds and casts, 37 tons of plaster and 15 tons of iron were 
 used. The following measurements were also then taken: Pedestal, 13 ft. 8 in. 
 high; 9 ft. 11 in. long; 5 ft. 7 in. wide. Statue: height from foot to top of 
 horse's head, 7 ft. 8 in. ; plinth to top of figure, 9 ft. 2 in. ; plinth to neck of 
 horse, 6 ft.; plinth to top of hind-quarters, 5 ft. 10 in. ; length from head to tail, 
 7 ft. 9 in. ; circumference of horse from back of saddle-cloth, 8 ft. 2 in. ; round 
 chest and hind-quarters, 16 ft. The metal casting around the left fore-foot of the 
 horse bears HVBEK(T) LE SVEVR (FE)CIT +1633. 
 
 " Although taken soon after Charles's accession, and at a time when sorrow 
 could hardly have been put upon him, yet the character of melancholy is deeply 
 impressed on the countenance. The horse is superb : the action is that which is 
 taught in the menage, the motion of the legs showing the spirit of the animal ; 
 yet the action is not that of progressing, it is a movement that would not com- 
 municate motion to the body, but leaves the rider perfectly undisturbed ; the 
 bridle falls almost loose upon the neck ; nor does the well-taught steed disturb the 
 reverie of thought expressed in the countenance of its master." Times, Sept. 1, 
 1838. 
 
 STATUES. SITES. SCULPTORS. SEE P. 
 
 Charles I. .... Temple Bar ... . . . . Bushnell. 704 
 
 Charles II. .... Temple Bar ... . . . Bushnell. 704 
 
 Charles II. . . . . Soho-square. 685 
 
 Charles II Chelsea Hospital . . . . Gibbons. 78 
 
 Comedy Covent-garden Theatre . . Flaxman. 
 
 Clayton, Sir Robert . St. Thomas's Hospital. 387 
 
 Crosby, Sir John . . Crosby Hall (front) . . .S.Nixon. 240 
 
 Cumberland, Duke of Cavendish-square . . . .Chew. 681 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen . . St. Dunstan's, Fleet-street. 126 
 
 Edward VI. ... Christ's Hospital. 
 
 Edward VI. . . . St. Bartholomew's Hospital. 
 
 Edward VI. . . .St. Thomas's Hospital . . Scheemakers. 387 
 
 Eldon, Earl of ... School, Wandsworth-road. 
 
 C.J. Fox Bloomsbury-square . . . Westmacott. 
 
 George I St.George'sCh. Bloomsbury. 127 
 
 George III Somerset House .... Bacon. 670 
 
 George III Cockspur-street .... M. C. Wyatt. 578 
 
 George IV Trafalgar-square ... . Chan trey. 685 
 
 In modelling the horse standing still on all four legs, Chantrey has given the 
 sanction of his name to a bold and judicious innovation on the old custom of 
 representing horses in statues either curvetting or ambling. 
 
 Guy, Thomas . . . Guy's Hospital Scheemakers. 382 
 
 Handel, G. F. . . . Sacred Harmonic Society . Boubiliac. 
 Henry VIII. . . .St. Bartholomew's Hospital. 31 
 
 Huskisson, William . Lloyd's, Royal Exchange . Lough. 279 
 
 James I Temple Bar Bushnell. 704 
 
 James II Whitehall Gibbons. 
 
 The doubt which long prevailed respecting the artist of this statue has been 
 cleared up by the following passage in the Autobiography of Sir John Bram.- 
 ston, printed by the Camden Society. "On New Year's day, 1686, a statue in 
 brass \vas to be seen (placed the day before) in the yard at Whitehall, made by 
 Sibbons, at the charge of Toby Rustick, of the present king, James II." Thus, 
 Walpole had a correct impression of the truth when he wrote, " I am the rather 
 inclined to attribute the s.atue at Whitehall to Gibbons, because I know no other 
 artist of that time capable of it." The likeness is extremely line, as is the easy 
 attitude of the figure. Many verses were made on this statue at the time of its 
 erection. The figure looking towards the river, which was then open, was said 
 ,o prognosticate the king's flight; this, however, is not more probable than that 
 he is pointing to the spot where his father was executed, which has long been 
 jroved a vulgar error. At the accession of William the statue was not removed. 
 
692 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 STATUES. SITES. SCTTXPTORS. SEE P. 
 
 Kent, Duke of ... Portland-place Gahagan. 561 
 
 Millingan, Robert* . West India Docks. 256 
 
 Moore, Sir John . . Christ's Hospital. 
 
 Nelson, Lord . . . Trafalgar-square .... Baily. 225 
 
 Peel, Sir Robert . . Mansion House Behnes. 
 
 Pitt, W Hanover-square Chantrey. 682 ; 
 
 Sloane, Sir Hans . . Botanic Gardens, Chelsea . Rysbrach. 51 
 
 Tragedy Covent-garden Theatre . . Flaxman. 
 
 Victoria, Queen . . Roval Exchange .... Lough. 279 ' 
 
 Watts, Dr. Isaac . . Abney Park Cemetery . . Baily. 69 ; 
 Wellington, Duke of . Green Park Arch . . . . M. C. Wyatt. 19 i 
 
 This stupendous statue was modelled by Matthew Cotes Wyatt, and his son i 
 James Wyatt, at Dudley-grove House, Harrow-road ; and was commenced in 1 
 1840, and occupied three years, and took more than 100 tons of plaster. It repre- j 
 sents the Duke of Wellington upon his horse "Copenhagen," at the field of i 
 Waterloo : the Duke sat for the portrait, and the head and likeness are fine. ! 
 The group is cast in about eight pieces, which are fastened with screws and i 
 fused together, 30 men being often en ployed at one time upon the bronze. It ' 
 was conveyed upon an immense car, drawn by 40 horses, to the Green Parks 
 Arch, Sept. 28, 1 846, and was raised by crabs. The entire group weighs 40 ton s : is \ 
 nearly 30 feet high; and within half of the horse eight persons have dined. The \ 
 girth of the horse is 22 ft. Sin.; nose to tail 26 feet; length of head 5 feet; length! 
 of each ear 2 ft. 4 in. The erection of this group, which cost about 30,0007., ori-i 
 ginated from trfe close contest for the execution of the Wellington statue in the 
 City ; and the execution of both statues emanated from a suggestion of Mr. T. B. 
 Simpson, of the Court of Common Council, Lime-street Ward. 
 
 Wellington, Duke of . Royal Exchange . . . .Chantrey. 281 
 
 William III St." James's -square .... Bacon, jun. 683J 
 
 William IV. .... King-William-street . . . S. Nixon. 265 j 
 
 The several Statues in the East India House, Guildhall, British) 
 Museum, Parliament House, St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, 
 Royal Exchange, and other public buildings, are described under theuh 
 respective names. 
 
 At Newgate Prison, in exterior niches, are statues of Concord andi 
 Liberty, Mercy and Truth, Peace and Plenty, from the old Gate. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE (THE). 
 
 The general history of the Stock Exchange has already been narrated- 
 (see EXCHANGES, page 284). A new building was completed early in* 
 1854, by W. Cubitt and Co., from the design of Thomas Allason; and; 
 opened on March 2. It occupies the centre of a block of buildings ; the* 
 principal entrance being from Bartholomew-lane, through Capel-court^ 
 there are also three entrances from Throgmorton-street, and one fronu 
 Threadneedle-street. The area of the new house is about 75 squares j| 
 and it would contain 1JGO or 1200 members; there are, however, sel-j 
 dom more than half that number present. For the cupola, laminated} 
 ribs are used. The vault, which covers the centre of the building, 3$ 
 feet in span, is of timber and iron; the whole, with the dome, &c., m 
 covered with lead. Besides the " house," or large room, there arer 1 
 strong-rooms, committee-rooms, reading and refreshment rooms, &C.J 
 In the ventilation, the vitiated air is got rid of by an extracting-; 
 chamber on the apex of the dome, heated by a sun-burner with 500j 
 jets: during the day the sun-burner is concealed from view by a perfo-; 
 rated sliding metal" screen, which may be withdrawn to light up the 
 house without further burners. The floor, ceiling, and sides of the 
 Strong Room are formed of iron girders and bars, fitted in with bricks 
 * Projector of these Docks: he died at Rosslyn House, Hampstead, May 1809 
 
STRAND. 693 
 
 and pure cement ; and the walls are lined with case-hardened steel, and 
 fitted up with wrought-iron boxes. The number of members of the 
 Stock Exchange, in February 1854, was 1026 ; of privileged clerks, about 
 700. To the name of Francis Baily, F.R.S., mentioned at p. 286, may be 
 added David Ricardo, and several of his descendants; Charles Stokes, 
 F.R.S. ; Horace Smith, the novelist : and the authors of The Last of the 
 Plantagenets, and the play of The Templar, 1853. It is an established 
 fact, that, abroad and at home, all parties having large financial opera- 
 tions approach the London Stock Exchange with more confidence than 
 any other money-market in the world. The Builder, No. 574. 
 
 STRAND (THE) 
 
 Extends from Charing Cross to Temple Bar (1369 yards, or | of a mile 49 
 yards), and was " probably so called as being at the brink of the Thames, 
 before the space now built on was gained by raising the ground'' 
 (Hatton), which is in some places 20 feet deep. In early ages this was 
 the great thoroughfare between the court and City, and the Inns of 
 Court and Westminster. The site of St. Clement's Danes is recog- 
 nised in tradition as " the Danes' churchyard," the burial-place of the 
 son of Canute the Great, Harald Harefoot. Here, close by the Thames, 
 and outside the City walls, dwelt together as fellow-countrymen the 
 Danish merchants and mariners; and their church, like that at Aarhns 
 in Jutland, and Trondjeun in Norway, was dedicated to St. Clement, the 
 seaman's patron-saint. (J. J. A. Worsae, For. f.S.A.) Another early 
 building was the Hermitage of St. Catherine at Charing, and adjoining 
 or opposite, the Hospital of St. Mary Rounceval (temp. Henry III.); 
 the palace of the Savoy, and the first church of St. Mary, were built 
 before the 14th century. A petition to Edward II. (1315) describes 
 the footway interrupted by thickets and bushes ; and in 1383 tolls 
 were granted for paving the Strand from the Savoy to Temple Bar. 
 The soulh side was occupied by the mansions of the nobility and pre- 
 lates, with gardens, terraces, and water-stairs down to the Thames; 
 but the spaces between the mansions showed the river : whilst on the 
 north side were the gardens of the Convent of Westminster, bounded 
 by lanes and open ground ; the village of St. Giles, and the church of 
 St. Martin in the fields ; and Charing Cross, without a house near it. 
 The Sutherland View (Van der Wyngrerde's), 1543, shows straggling 
 [ines of houses from the bar (now Temple Bar) to the Savoy, and be- 
 yond it on the south side; but the north is open to Convent Garden; 
 and in the roadway are St. Clement's and St. Mary's churches, and the 
 Maypole, near upon the site of the Strand Cross, where "the justices 
 itinerants sate without London" (Stoic). Of the Thames-bank palaces 
 are shown Somerset Place, the Savoy, and Durham House. At this 
 time the Strand was crossed by three water-courses running from the 
 north to the Thames, over which were bridges : the sites of two are 
 denoted by Ivy-bridge-lane and Strand-bridge-lane ; and the remains of 
 a third bridge were unearthed in 1802, a little eastward of St. Cle- 
 ment's church. The Ivy-bridge stream formed the boundary between 
 the Liberty and Duchy of Lancaster and the City of Westminster. 
 
 STRAND : SOUTH SIDE. Northumberland House is described at page 
 492. Next door, upon the site of No. 1 Strand, was the official resi- 
 dence of the Secretary of State, where Sir Harry Vane the elder lived, 
 in the reign of Charles I. 
 
 Northumberland-court was once known as "Lieutenants' Lodgings :" 
 here Nelson lodged. 
 
 Northumberland-street, formerly Hartshorne-lane : here, with his 
 mother and step-father, a bricklayer, lived Ben Jouson when he went 
 
694 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 to "a private school in St. Martin's Church," and next to Westminster 
 School, under Camden, then junior master. 
 
 Craven- street : at No. 7 lived Dr. Benjamin Franklin, in 1771: the 
 house is now occupied by the Society for the Relief of Persons Im- 
 prisoned for Small Debts. At No. 27 died, in 1839, James Smith, one 
 of the authors of the Rejected Addresses. 
 
 At No. 18 Strand was born, 1776, Charles Mathews, the comedian : 
 his father was a bookseller; and his shop was the resort of Dr. Adam 
 Clarke, Rowland Hill, and other Dissenting ministers. 
 
 Hungerford-street : Hungerford Market is described at page 499. 
 Hungerford Hall and its panoramic pictures were burnt March 31, 1854. 
 
 No. 31 Strand occupies part of the site of York House, originally 
 the inn of the Bishop of Norwich ; and being obtained in exchange for 
 Suffolk House, Scuthwark, by Heath, Archbishop of York, temp. Queen 
 Mary, the name was changed to York House. It was let to the Lord 
 Keepers of the Great Seal : here lived Sir Nicholas Bacon ; and here was 
 born his son, Lord Chancellor Bacon, 22d Jan. 1560-1 : when a boy, he 
 nsed to go to play in St. James's Fields, where the echo of a brick con- 
 duit led him to seek out the cause. At York House he kept his 60th 
 birthday. Here the Great Seal was taken from him: when importuned 
 by the Duke of Lennox to part with the mansion, Lord Bacon replied, 
 " For this you will pardon me : York House is the house where my 
 father died, and where I first breathed ; and there will I yield my last 
 breath, if so please God and the king." He did not, however, return to 
 York House after his release from the Tower, being forbidden to come, 
 within the verge of the court. The house was next lent to Villiers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, who, in 1624, obtained the estate by grant from' 
 James I. The mansion was then taken down, and a temporary house 
 built for state receptions, and sumptuously fitted with "huge panes of 
 glass" (mirrors), of the manufacture of which in England Buckingham 
 was an early patron. Near the middle of a long embattled wall, front- 
 ing the Thames, he caused to be erected, in 1626, a rustic Water-gate. 
 After the duke's death, in 1628, York House was leased to the Earl of 
 Northumberland. Here was a fine collection of pictures, among which 
 is supposed to have been the lost portrait of Prince Charles, bv Velas- 
 quez. Here also was the collection of sculptures which belonged to 
 Rubens; and in the garden was John de Bologna's Cain and Abel. The 
 " superstitious pictures" were sold by order of Parliament in 1645 : and 
 the house was given by Cromwell to General Fairfax, by the marriage- 
 of whose daughter and" heiress with George, second Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, it was re-conveyed to the Villiers family. The duke resided here-i 
 snbseo,ent to the Restoration ; but in 1672 sold the estate for 30,000, 
 when the mansion was pulled down, and upon the grounds and gardens i 
 were erected houses named from the last possessor of the mansion: 
 George-street (now York-buildings), H/Ziers-street, Duke-street. Of- 
 alley. Buckingham-street. The whole estate was called York Buildings. 
 
 The York Buildings Waterworks Company, for supplying thp West-' 
 end of London with water, was one of the bubbles of 1720. For this >. 
 purpose, however, a veritable steam-engine was constructed, which is 
 thus described in the Foreigner's Guide to London, 1720 : 
 
 " Here you see a hicjh wooden tower and a water-engine of a new invention, 
 that draws out of the Thames above three tons of water in one minute, by means 
 of the steam arising from water boiling in a great copper, a continual fire being 
 kept to that purpose; the steam being compressed and condensed, moves, by its 
 evaporation, and strikes a counterpoise, which counterpoise striking another, at 
 last moves a great beam, which, by its motion of going up and down, draws the 
 wat-er from the river, which mounts through great iron pipes to the height of the 
 tower, discharging itself there into a deep leaden cistern; and thence failing 
 
STRAND. 695 
 
 through other large iron pipes, fills them that are laid along the streets, and so 
 continuing to run through wooden pipes as far as Mar-bone fields, falls there into 
 a large pond or reservoir, from whence the new buildings near Hanover-square, 
 and many thousand houses, are supplied with water. This machine is certainly 
 a great curiosity ; and though it be not so large as that of Marly in France, yet, 
 considering its smallness in comparison with that, and the little charge it was 
 built and is kept with, and the quantity of water it draws, its use and benefit is 
 much beyond that." 
 
 The Company ceased to work this "fire-engine" in 1731; but it was 
 shown for several years as a Curiosity. In AH Alive and Merry, 
 or the London Daily Post, April 18, 1741, it is stated that the charge 
 of working the machine, " and some other reasons concurring, made 
 its proprietors, the York Buildings Company, lay aside the design; 
 and no doubt but the inhabitants in this neighbourhood are very glad 
 of it ; for its working, which was by sea-coal, was attended with so 
 much smoke, that it not only must pollute the air thereabouts, but 
 spoil the furniture." The failure is the subject of an amusing jeu 
 d 'esprit, entitled " The York Buildings Dragons," reprinted in 
 Wright's England under the House of Hanovtr, vol. i. Appendix. 
 Many of the wooden water-pipes have been taken up in excavations in 
 Brook-street, Grosvenor-square, and in other places along the line. In 
 Buckingham-street, in 1818, were "the Sea-water Baths," which were 
 supplied by a vessel with water from below Southend. 
 
 Evelyn notes: "17th Nov. 1683. I tooke ahouse in Villiers-streete, York- 
 buildings, for the winter, having many important concerns to dispatch, and for 
 the education of my daughters." Diary. 
 
 Buckingham-street : at the last house on the west side (since rebuilt) 
 lived Samuel Pepys from 1684 to 1700; and No. 15, on the east side 
 opposite, was hired for Peter the Great in 1098: the house has some 
 noble rooms facing the river : here the Institution of Civil Engineers 
 once met. At No. 14, in the top chambers, lived William Etty, R.A.,the 
 painter, from 1826 to 1849. At the south end of Buckingham- street 
 remains the Water-gate built for York House, which stood a short dis- 
 tance westward. 
 
 The Gate is of Portland-stone ; on the northern or street side are three 
 arches, flanked with pilasters, supporting an entablature and four bills ; above 
 the keystones of the arches are shields, those at the sides sculptured with an- 
 chors, and that in the centre with the arms of Villieis impaling those of the 
 family of Manners. Upon the frieze is the Villiers motto: FIDKI COTICULA CRUX 
 (the Cross is the Touchstone of Faith). The southern or river front has a large 
 archway, opening upon steps to the water; on each side is an aperture, divided 
 by a small column, and partly closed by balustrades. Four rusticated columns 
 support an entablature, ornamented with escallops, and crowned with an arched 
 pediment, and two couchant lions holding shields, on which are sculptured an- 
 chors. In the pediment, within a scroll, are the arms of Villiers, viz. on a cross, 
 five escallops, encircled by a srarter, and surmounted by a ducal coronet; at the 
 sides are pendent festoons. This Gate lias been ascribed to Inigo Jones; but in 
 the library of the Soane Museum, in an " Account Book of \Wkes done by Ni- 
 cholas Stone, sen. Master-mason to King James I. and King Charles," the ninth 
 article in the list is, " The Water-gate at Yorke H ouse hee deesinrd and built, and 
 ye right-hand Lion hee did, fronting y Thames. Mr. Kearne, a Jarman, his 
 brother by marrying his sister, did y e Shee Lion." 
 
 The Gate is approached by an inclosed terrace-walk, planted with 
 lime-trees : the stone-work was repaired, and the iron-work renewed, 
 and the gate roofed, in 1823, at a cost of 300?., defrayed by a rate levied 
 upon the inhabitants of York-buildings ; but the whole was in 1854 in 
 a ruinous state. 
 
 The Adelphi, east of York-buildings, is described at page 1. John- 
 street occupies the site of Durham House, which extended from the 
 ; river to the Strand. It was built by Thomas Hatfielde, Bishop of 
 Durham, 1345-1381, and continued to be inhabited by the see until 
 
696 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bishop Tunstall exchanged the house for Coldharborough, in Thames- 
 street. Durham Place was used as a mint by the Seymours. Edward 
 VI. granted the place to his sister Elizabeth. It next became the resi- 
 dence of Dudley, Earl of Northumberland ; and here was celebrated 
 his son's marriage with Lady Jane Grey, who, on assuming the crown, 
 was lodged in Durham Place, and thence escorted to the Tower. The 
 estate was restored by Queen Mary to Bishop Tunstall; but Elizabeth, 
 on her accession, claimed Durham Place as one of the royal palaces, 
 and granted it to Sir Walter Raleigh, who possessed it for 20 years, 
 but surrendered it in 1603 to the then Bishop of Durham. Aubrey 
 well remembered Raleigh's "study, which was on a little turret that 
 looked into and over the Thames", and had the prospect, which is as 
 pleasant, perhaps, as any in the world." The stables fronting the 
 Strand were next taken down, and upon the ground was built the New 
 Exchange (see page 283), demolished in 1737 : the site is now 
 occupied by the houses Nos. 54 to 64 inclusive, the banking-house of 
 Coutts and Co. being the centre : the name survives in Durham- street. 
 At Coutts's (No. 59), formerly in St. Martin's-lane, the sovereign and 
 the royal family have banked (kept cash), commencing with Queen 
 Anne: the series of accounts is preserved entire. 
 
 Beaufort-buildings occupy the site of a mansion named from its 
 successive owners, Carlisle House (Bishops of Carlisle); Bedford and 
 Russell House (Earls of Bedford); Worcester House, from its next oc- 
 cupant, the Marquis of Worcester, who wrote the Century of Inven- 
 tions ; and from the marquis's eldest son, created Duke of Beaufort, 
 Beaufort House. Lord Clarendon lived here while his house was 
 building at the top of St. James's-street ; and here, in 1660, was 
 married Anne Hyde, the Chancellor's daughter, to the Duke of York, 
 according to the Protestant rites. The mansion was taken down, and 
 a smaller house built ; which being burnt down, with some others, in 
 1695. upon the ground were erected the present Beaufort-buildings. 
 In a house on the site was born Aaron Hill, 1685 At the east corner, 
 upon the site of No. 96 Strand, lived Charles Lillie, who sold snuffs, 
 perfumes, &c. ; and took in letters for the Taller, Spectator, &c., di- 
 rected to him at the desire of Steele. 
 
 Nos. 101 and 102 Strand, Pies's Divan, a large decorated room for 
 cigars, chess, and coffee, occupies the site of the Fountain Tavern, noted 
 for its political club, and described by Strype ; of a drawing-academy, 
 at which Conway and Wheatley were ptip'ils; and of the lecture-room 
 of John Thelwall, the political elocutionist. At No. 101 lived Rudolph 
 Ackermann, the printseller, who introduced lithography and "the 
 Annuals" from Germany: here he illuminated his gallery with Kennel 
 coal, when gas-lighting "was a novelty. 
 
 Adam- street presents a handsome specimen of the embellished street- 
 architecture introduced by the brothers Adam. 
 
 Salisbury-street and Cecil- street are built upon the site of Salisbury 
 House, erected in 1602 by Sir Robert Cecil, Lord High Treasurer to 
 James I., and created Earl of Salisbury in 1605. His successor divided 
 the mansion into Great Salisbury House and Little Salisbury House : 
 part of the latter was taken down, and upon the site was erected 
 Salisbury-street, rebuilt as we now see it by Paine the architect; 
 another portion was converted into the Middle Exchange, with shops 
 and stalls, and a flight of steps to the river; the latter was taken down 
 in 1696, with Great Salisbury House, and upon their site was erected 
 Cecil-street. In Little Salisbury House lived the third Earl of Devon- 
 shire, the pupil and patron of Hobbes, who, when standing at the gate, 
 a few days after Restoration-day, was kindly recognised by Charles II. 
 as he was passing in his coach through the Strand. In Cecil-street, 
 
STRAND. 697 
 
 and at the Globe in Salisbury-street, lived Partridge, cobbler, astro- 
 loger, and almanack-maker, whom Swift humorously killed in 1708, 
 though he actually lived till 17J5: but Partridge's Almanack (Merlinus 
 Liberatus] continued to be published; and in 1723 advertised "Dr. 
 Partridge's night-drops, night-pills, &c., sold as before, by his widow, 
 at the Blue Ball in Salisbury- street." 
 
 Opposite Southampton- street lived the Vaillants, foreign booksellers, 
 from 1686 until late in the last century. 
 
 Fountain- court is named from the above tavern : here is the Coal 
 Hole, a tavern haunt of Edmund Kean. At No. 3 in this court died, 
 Aug. 27, 3827, Blake, the epic painter, whose love of religion supported 
 him through a life of uniform poverty, and cheered his death-bed. 
 
 Savoy-steps and Savoy-street, see SAVOYJ page 658. 
 
 At No. 132 Strand (site of Wellington-street) was established in 
 1740 the first circulating library in London, by Wright, who had for 
 his rivals Samuel Bathoe and John Bell. 
 
 Upon the site of Na. 141 lived Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, "at 
 Shakspeare's Head, over against Catherine-street, in the Strand." The 
 house was successively occupied by the publishers, Andrew Millar, Al- 
 derman Thomas Cadell, and Cadell and Davies : Millar, being a Scotch- 
 man, adopted the sign of Buchanan's Head, a painting of which con- 
 tinued in one of the window-panes to our day. 
 
 No 142 occupies the site of the Turk's "Head Coffee-house, which 
 Dr. Johnson encouraged ; " for the mistress of it is a good civil woman, 
 and has not much business." No. 143, site of the first office of the 
 Morning Chronicle (see NEWSPAPERS, page 554). At No. 147 was 
 
 Published the Sphynx ; and Jan. 2, 1828, No. 1 of the Athenceum, by 
 ames Silk Buckingham, the traveller in the East. 
 
 At No. 149, long known to the collectors of shells, minerals, and fossils, John 
 Mawe kept shop : here have been sold shells at 51., IQl., and 201. each, now to 
 be bought for a few shillings. Mr. Mawe published his Travels in the Diamond 
 District of Brazil, 1812 ; A Treatise on Diamonds; and several elementary works 
 on Mineralogy, Conchology, &c. His widow was succeeded by James Tennant, 
 P.G.S., Prolessor of Mineralogy and Geology in King's College, London. 
 
 | ( SOMERSET HOUSE (see page 668). KING'S COLLEGE GATEWAY 
 
 (see page 211). 
 
 No. 162 Strand, Somerset Hotel : at the bar, letters were left for 
 the author of Junius. No. 165, Inglis's Warehouse for Scofs Pills : 
 " Dr. Anderson's pills, sold by J. Inglis, now living at the Golden Uni- 
 corn, over against the Maypole in the Strand." Advertisement, 1699. 
 
 Strand- lane, leading to the Roman Bath (see pp. 32 and 651), is the 
 site of Strand Bridge, '^and under is a lane or way down to the landing- 
 place on the bank of the Thames" (Stow). Eastward were Chester's 
 Inn, Strand Inn, and the Inn of the Bishop of Llandaff. 
 
 No. 169, Strand Theatre, formerly Barker's Panorama (see p. 580). 
 
 Arundel House, eastward, originally the town-house of the Bishops 
 of Bath, was wrested from them in the reign of Edward VI. by Lord 
 Thomas Seymour, High Admiral. After his execution, the house, with 
 messuages, tenements, and lands adjoining, was purchased by Henry 
 Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, according to Strvpe, for 41Z. 6s. 8d. ; hence 
 it was called Arundel Palace. Here died, 25 Feb. 1603, the Countess 
 of Nottingham, after her interview with Queen Elizabeth to implore 
 forgiveness for having withheld from her Essex's ring. Here Thomas 
 Earl of Arundel began to assemble the celebrated Arundelian Marbles : 
 the statues and busts in the gallery of the mansion ; the inscribed 
 marbles inserted in the garden-walls; and the statues placed in the 
 garden : altogether, 37 statues, 128 busts, and 250 inscribed marbles ; 
 besides sarcophagi, altars, and fragments, and the inestimable gems. 
 
698 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The sculpture and picture galleries are seen in the backgrounds of Van 
 Somer's portraits of the Earl and his Countess. 
 
 To the Earl's " liberal charges and magnificence this angle of the world oweth 
 the first sight of Greek and R.oman statues, with whose admired presence he 
 began to honour the gardens and galleries of Arundel House, and hath ever 
 since continued to transplant old Greece into England." Compleat Gentleman. 
 
 " March 1, 1664. I went to Arundel House, where I saw a great number of 
 old Roman and Grecian statues, many as big again as the life, and divers Greek 
 inscriptions upon s'ones in the gardens. * * * March 2. I went to Mr. Foxe's 
 chamber in Arundel House, where I saw a great many pretty pictures and things 
 cast in brasse, some limmings, divers pretious stones, and one diamond valued at 
 eleven hundred pound." Journal of Mr. E. Browne: Ms. Sloan. 1906. 
 
 To Arundel House the Earl brought Hollar, who here engraved 
 some of his finest plates. Thomas Parr (" Old Parr ") was conveyed 
 here from Shropshire by the Earl, to be shown to Charles I. : becoming 
 domesticated in the family of the Earl of Arundel, his mode of living 
 Avas changed; he fed high, drank wine, and died Nov. 14, 16 : 35, 
 after he had out-lived nine sovereigns, and during the reign of the 
 tenth, at the age of 152 years and nine months: his body, by the 
 king's command, was dissected by Harvey, who attributed Parr's death 
 to peripneumony, brought on by the impurity of a London atmosphere 
 and sudden change in diet. Philosophical Transactions, 1669 * 
 
 Arundel House and Marbles were given back at the Restoration, in 
 1660, to the grandson of the earl, Mr. Henry Howard, who, at the re- 
 commendation of Selden and Evelyn, gave the inscribed marbles to the 
 University of Oxford; and the library to the Royal Society, who met 
 at Arundel House 9 Jan. 1666-7. Evelyn records " how exceedingly 
 the corrosive air of London impaired" the marbles. The mansion was 
 taken down 1678 ; and upon its site were erected Arundel, Surrey, 
 Howard, and Norfolk streets. Hollar's printf shows the courtyard of 
 Arundel House, with the great hall, and gabled buildings with dormer 
 windows, but mostly low and mean. Sully was lodged here at the ac- 
 cession of James I. 
 
 Surrey -street : here, on the east side, in a large garden-house front- 
 ing the Thames, lived the Hon. Charles Howard, the eminent chemist, 
 who discovered the sugar-refining process ih vacua. In Surrey-street 
 died "William Congreve, the dramatist, Jan. 19, l7- ; 8-9. 
 
 Norfolk-street: here, in a house near the water-side, lodged Peter 
 the Great in 1698, and was visited by King William ; and thence he 
 went in a hackney-coach to dine with his majesty at Kensington Palace. 
 At the south-west corner lived William Penn, the quaker ; and sub- 
 sequently, in the same house, Dr. Birch, the historian of the Royal 
 Society." At No. 8, Samuel Ireland, originally a Spitalfields silk-mer- 
 chant," whose son, William Henry Ireland, then eighteen, forged the 
 Shakspeare Papers in 1795: here" Dr. Parr and Dr. Warton fell upon 
 their knees and kissed the Mss., "great and impudent forgery," as 
 Parr subsequently called it. In Norfolk-street also lived Mountfort, 
 the player ; and in Howard-street lodged Mrs. Bracegirdle, the fasci- 
 nating actress, out of an attempt to carry off whom arose a bloody 
 duel between Slountfort and Lord Mohun, when the former was killed. 
 
 Between Arundel and Norfolk streets, in 1693, lived Sir Thomas 
 Lyttleton, Speaker of the House of Commons; and next door, the- 
 
 * The evidence of Parr's extreme age is not, however, documentary: and the 
 birth dates back to a period before Parish Registers were instituted by Cromwell. 
 Census Report, 1851. 
 
 t Hollar's View of London from the roof of Arundel House is very rare : 
 an impression at Sir Mark Masterman Sykes's sale, in 1S24, sold for ll/. In a 
 Household Book of Lord William Howard (Belted Will) are " hh expenses 
 whilst living at Arundel House ; and amongst them a payment to Mr. ' Shak- 
 speare,' the parish scavenger." Alhenceum, No. 1403. 
 
STRAND. 
 
 699 
 
 father of Bishop Burnet; and the house within memory was Burnet's, 
 the bookseller, a collateral descendant of the bishop. 
 
 Arundel- street, " a pleasant and considerable street" (Hatton, 1708) : 
 
 " Behold that narrow street which steep descends, 
 Whose building to the shining shore extends ; 
 Here Arundel's fam'd structure rear'd its frame, 
 The street alone retains an empty name : 
 Where Titian's glowing paint the canvas warm'd, 
 And Raphael's fair design the judgment charm'd, 
 Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted here, 
 Tiie coloured prints of Overton appear; 
 Where statues breath'd, the work of Phidias' hands, 
 A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands." Gay's Trivia. 
 
 On the east side was the Crown and Anchor Tavern, now the WHIT- 
 TINGTON CJ.UB (see p. 199) : the sign was, probably, in part taken from 
 -the anchor of St. Clement's, opposite. Strype mentions it as "a large 
 and curious house." Here was instituted the Academy of Ancient 
 Music, in 1710. The great room is 84 ft. by 35 ft. 6 in : here, on Fox's 
 birthday in 1798, took place a banquet to 2000 guests. Dr. Johnson 
 and Boswell occasionally supped here; and the Royal Society dinners 
 were held here. The very handsome Italian-fronted houses at the east 
 and west corners of Arundel-street were designed by H. R. Abraham. 
 
 No. 191 Strand was the shop of William Godwin, bookseller, and 
 author of Caleb Williams, the Life of Chaucer, &c. 
 
 Milford-lane is named from nford over the Thames at the extremity, 
 and a wind-mill in the Strand, near the site of St. Mary's Church, 
 and shown in a print temp. James I. (See Chron. London Bridge, p. 395) : 
 there is also a token of " the Windmill, withovt Temple Barr." 
 Sir Richard Baker, the chronicler, lived in Milford-lane, 1632-9. (Cun- 
 ningham's Handbook, p. 337.) The picturesque tenements on the east 
 side, Strand end of the lane, principally of wood, with bay-windows, 
 are described in a deed, date 1694: they were taken down in 1852, and 
 the site is now occupied by " Milford House." 
 
 Essex-street and Devereux-court, formerly the Outer Temple, are 
 named from Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's last 
 favourite. The ground was leased by the Knights of St. John of Jeru- 
 salem to the Bishops of Exeter, who built here a town-house, in which 
 they lived till the Reformation, when it passed to William Lord Paget ; 
 next to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, son of the poetic Earl of 
 Surrey ; to Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; and then to his step-son, the 
 Earl of Essex : hence it was successively called Exeter House, Paget 
 House, Norfolk House, Leicester House, and Essex House. But the 
 chief memory of the place is associated with Essex and his abortive 
 project for the overthrow of Elizabeth's government : he fortified 
 the house, but was hemmed in on all sides, artillery being planted 
 against the mansion, and a gun mounted upon the tower of St. Clement's, 
 when Essex and his followers surrendered. Here was born and married 
 his luckless son, whose infamous countess was implicated in the poison- 
 ing of Sir Thomas Overbury. Pepys describes Essex House as " large 
 but ugly :" it was tenanted by persons of rank till after the Restora- 
 tion, when it was subdivided and let. The Cottonian Library was kept 
 here from 1712 to 1730, in the portion of the house upon the site of the 
 present Essex-street Chapel (see page 174). At the Essex Head tavern, 
 now No. 40, Dr. Johnson established, the year before he died, a club 
 called " Sam's," from the landlord, Samuel Greaves, who had been 
 servant to Mr. Thrale. In this street was held the Robin Hood 
 Society, a debating club, the scene of Burke's earliest eloquence ; 
 Goldsmith was also a member. 
 
700 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 No. 213 Strand was George's Coffee-house (see page 202). 
 De.vereux- court : here was the Grecian Coffee-house (see page 202). 
 No. 217 Strand was the house of Snow, the wealthy goldsmith : 
 
 " Disdain not, Snow, my humble verse to hear ; 
 Stick thy black pen awhile behind thy ear. 
 
 O thou, whose penetrative wisdom found 
 
 The South-sea Dcks and shelves, where thousands drowu'd! 
 
 "When credit sunk, and commerce gasping lay, 
 
 Thou stood'st, nor sent one bill unpaid away. 
 
 When not a guinea chink'd on Martin's boards, 
 
 And Atwell's self was drain'd of all his hoards, 
 
 Thou stood'st (an Indian kins in size and hue) : 
 
 Thy unexhausted shop was our Peru." Gay. 
 
 Palsgrave-place was the site of the Palsgrave Head tavern, set up. 
 in compliment to the Palsgrave Frederic, afterwards King of Bohemia, 
 affianced to the Princess Elizabeth in the old banqueting-house at 
 Whitehall, Dec. 27, 1612. Hard by was Heycock's Ordinary, much 
 frequented by Parliament-men and gallants. Burn's Catalogue, &c. 
 
 TEMPLE BAR is described at page 704. The west side, until num- 
 bered with the Strand, was called on tokens, " Without Temple Barr." 
 
 STBAND : NORTH SIDE. No. 238 was the last of the "Bulk shops," 
 kept by Crockford, the fishmonger ; removed in 1846 (see page 390). 
 
 Ship-yard was the site of the Ship inn, mentioned in a grant to Sir 
 Christopher Hatton in 1571. There is a token of this tavern, date 
 1649; and it was standing in 1756. John Reynolds, a cook, issued a 
 token (a fox stealing a goose) in Shin-yard in 1666. A few of the old 
 houses remain : one, engraved in Wilkinson's Londina Illustrata, is 
 stated to have been the residence of Elias Ashmole, the antiquary. 
 Faithorne published his Art of Graving and Etching "at his shop 
 next to v e signe of the Drake, without Temple barr, 1662." 
 
 In Shire-lane was the sign of " the Bible,'' a house of call for 
 printers. In the Strand, besides the Ship, were the Swan, the Crown, 
 the Robin Hood, the White Hart, the Bear and Harrow, the Holy 
 Lamb, and the Angel, the latter taken down in 1854. Sir John Den- 
 ham, the poet, when a student at Lincoln's Inn, in 1635, in a drunken 
 frolic, with a pot of ink and a plasterer's brush, blotted out all the signs 
 between Temple Bar and Charing Cross, which cost Denham and his 
 comrades " some monies." J. H. Burn. 
 
 The Sutherland View of London (1543) shows a "loosely -built" line 
 of gabled houses on the north side, from Temple Bar to St. Mary's. 
 
 From opposite Ship-yard extended an obtuse-angled triangle of 
 buildings, the eastern line formed by the vestry-room and almshouses 
 of St. Clement's, and the sides by shops ; the whole called Butcher-row, 
 from a flesh-market granted here 21 Edward I., at first shambles, but 
 subsequently houses of wood and plaster; one of these, a five-storied 
 house, temp. James I., was inhabited by Count Beaumont, the French 
 court ambassador : here the Due de Sully was lodged for one night 
 in 1603, until "the palace of Arundei" could be prepared for him. 
 Beaumont's house-front bore roses and crowns and fleurs-de-lis, and 
 the date 1581. From a Bear and Harrow orgy, Nat Lee, the dramatic 
 poet, was returning to Duke-street, when he fell, " overtaken with 
 wine," in Clare Market, and died. Here also was Clifton's eating- 
 house, a dining-place of Dr. Johnson. Butcher-now was removed in 
 1802, when were built the opposite crescent-like houses, named 
 Pickett-street from the projector of the improvement, Alderman 
 Pickett. During the sewers' works, eastward of the church, at 
 
STRAND. 701 
 
 several feet depth, was discovered an ancient stone bridge of one arch. 
 The almshouses were removed in 1790 : here is a well 191 feet deep. 
 
 In a house in Butcher-row, east of Clement's Inn, hy the confession of Win- 
 ter, he, with Catesby, Wright, and Guy Fawkes, met, and there administered the 
 oath of secresy to the conspirators, and afterwards received the sacrament in the 
 next room. The Gunpowder Treason, reprinted 1679. 
 
 TheForegate leads to CLEMENT'S INN (see page 415) and Clements- 
 lane, where lived Sir John Trevor, cousin to Lord Chancellor Jeffries, 
 and twice Speaker of the House of Commons. Bo swell- court occupies 
 the site of a mansion of a Mr. Boswell : here lived Lady Raleigh, the 
 widow of Sir Walter ; Lord Chief- Justice Lyttleton, and Sir Richard 
 and Lady Fanshawe. In New-court was the Independents' chapel of 
 Burgess, Bradbury, and Winter : it was burnt in the Sacheverel riots. 
 
 St. Clement's Vestry-hall, Pickett-street, contains the altar-piece 
 (St. Cecilia) painted by Kent for St. Clement's Church, whence it was 
 removed, in 1725, by order of Bishop Gibson, on the supposition that 
 the picture contained portraits of the Pretender's wife and children : 
 it was first removed to the Crown and Anchor tavern, and next to the 
 old vestry-room. St. Clement's was the church most frequented by 
 Dr. Johnson : here, upon a column adjoining his pew (No. 18) in the 
 north gallery, is a brass tablet, with the following inscription bv the 
 Rev. Dr. Croly : 
 
 " In this pew, and beside this pillar, for many years attended divine service 
 the celebrated Dr. Samuel Johnson, the philosopher, the poet, the great lexico- 
 grapher, the profound moralist, and chief writer of his time. Born 1709 ; died 
 1784. In the remembrance and honour of noble faculties nobly employed, some 
 inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have placed this slight memorial, 
 A.D. 1851." 
 
 Wych-street, leading to Drury-lane (see page 261) : the south side 
 retains some picturesque house-fronts. Opposite is NEW INN (p. 416). 
 
 Holywell-street is named from one of the holy springs which Fitz- 
 Stephen described as " sweete, wholesome, and eleere; and much fre- 
 quented by schollers and youth of the citie in summer evenings, when 
 they walk forth to take the aire." The "holy well" is stated to be 
 that under the Old Dog tavern, No. 24. Here is the old entrance to 
 Lyon's Inn (now blocked up) ; and the passage opposite, sculptured with 
 a lion's head, was formerly the inn-entrance from the Strand. Holy- 
 well-street was, in Strype's time, inhabited by "divers salesmen and 
 piece-brokers," who have nearly deserted it : two of their signs re- 
 main ; the Indian queen, said to have been painted by Catton, R.A. ; and 
 a boldly-carved and gilt crescent moon. The street is now tenanted by 
 dealers in old clothes, keepers of book-stalls, and publishers and vendors 
 of cheap and low books : a few lofty gabled and bayed house-fronts 
 remain. 
 
 Newcastle- street (formerly Magpye-alley) was named from the 
 ground-landlord, John Holies, Duke of Newcastle. 
 
 No. 313 Strand, One Bell livery- stables: the tavern and buildings are 
 let in tenements. The Tatler, M'arch 9, 1710, announced a stage-coach 
 " twice a week from the One Bell in the Strand to Dorchester, the 
 proper time for writing pastorals now drawing near." 
 
 No. 317 occupies the site of the forge of a blacksmith, the father of 
 Nan Clarges, afterwards Duchess of Albemarle : "the shop," says 
 Aubrey (Life of Monk, 1680), " is still of that trade ; the corner shop, 
 the first turning on ye right hand as you come out of the Strand into 
 Drury-lane; the house is now built of brick:" it is at the east corner 
 of Maypole-alley, 
 
 " Where Drury-lane descends into the Strand." 
 
 Opposite was "the Maypole in the Strand," raised by the farrier to 
 commemorate his daughter's good fortune. 
 
702 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Maypole set up at the Restoration was conveyed to this spot, April 14, 
 1661, with great ceremony, a streamer flourishing before it, and drums and trum- 
 pets, and the acclamations of the people. This maypole, 1 >4 feet high, was in two 
 pieces, which being joined together and hooped with iron, the crown and vane, 
 and the king's arms, richly gilded, were placed on the head of it ; and a large top, 
 like a balcony, about the middle of it. It was raised by twelve seamen, "by 
 cables, pullies, and other tacklins, with six great anchors ;" and " in four hours' 
 space it was advanced upright, as near hand as they could guess where the 
 former one stood ; hut far more glorious, bigger, and higher than ever any one 
 that stood before it." It was, however, broken by a high wind about 1672 ; and 
 the remaining portion, being grown old and decayed, was taken down in 1713. 
 Several traders' and tavern tokens bear on the reverse this Maypole, 
 with a small building at the foot. Here was the first stand for hackney 
 coaches, erected in 1634, and abolished March 1853. 
 
 No. 332, Morning Chronicle Office, was formerly the White Swan 
 tavern. Here, in a lodging, to be near his patron, the Earl of Claren- 
 don, in Somerset House, lived Dr. William King, who wrote the Art of 
 Cookery, a poem, &c. He was the friend of Swift. King was luxurious 
 and improvident, and died in poverty in 1712, in the above house. 
 
 Catherine-street : on the west is New Exeter 'Change, designed by 
 Sydney Smirke, with house-fronts temp. James I. Brydges-street, 
 Drury-lane Theatre (see COVENT GARDEN, page 235, and THEATRES). 
 No. 346 Strand, Doily's Warehouse, rebuilt in fanciful Italian 
 style, by Beazley, in 1838, occupies the site of Wimbledon House, built 
 by Sir Edward Cecil, and burnt down in 1628. Dryden names " Doily 
 petticoats;" Steele had "a Doily suit" (Guardian, No. 102); and Gay 
 a "Doily habit" (Trivia, book i.) ; and Doily introduced the small 1 
 wine-glass napkin which bears his name. 
 
 Welling ton- street North : on the west side is the Lyceum Theatre, 
 rebuilt by Beazley. In Exeier- street, at a staymaker's, was the first 
 London lodging of Dr. Johnson (1737), where he lived upon 4d. per j 
 day. When Dr. Johnson first came to London with his pupil Garrick, j 
 they borrowed five pounds, on their joint note, of Mr. Wilcocks, the j 
 bookseller, Strand.* '* Near the Savoy in the Strand," east of Exeter 
 'Change, was the Canary House, probablv also Gary House, noted for 1 
 its sack "with the abricot flavour" (Dryden's Wild Gallant, 1669) ; j 
 and Pepys mentions " Gary House, a house of entertainment." 
 
 At No. 352 Strand was" born, Jan. 29, 1798, Henry Neele, the poet, 3 
 the son of the able map and heraldic engraver. Westward was 1 
 EXETER 'CHANGE, described at page 288. 
 
 " On the demolition of the building in 1830, the writer saw, cut in the stone | 
 architrave above the window at the east e d, ' EXETER CHANGE. 1670,' a date ] 
 much earlier in its adaptation than is generally supposed." J. H. Burn. 
 
 In one of the offices abutting on the 'Change was published the Lite- i 
 rary Gazette, No. 1, Jan. 25, 1817- 
 
 Exeter-street and Burleigh-street are named from their being parts 
 of the site of Burleigh and Exeter House. 
 
 No. 372 Strand, EXETER HALL (see page 287). 
 
 Southampton-street was named in compliment to Lady Rachel, 1 
 daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and wife of 
 William Lord Russell. Near the foot of the street stood Bedford 1 
 House, the town mansion of the Earl of Bedford : it was principally 
 
 * The following were Dr. Johnson's places of residence in and near London : 
 1. Exeter-street, off Catherine-street, Strand (1737). 2. Greenw:ch (1737). 3. 
 Woodstock-street, near Hanover-square (1737:. 4. Castle-street, Cavendish- 
 square, No. 6 (1738). 5. Strand. 6. Boswell-court. 7. Strand again. 8. Bow- 
 street. 9. Holborn. 10. Fetter-lane. 11. Holborn ajrain (at the Golden Anchor, 
 Holborn Bars, 1748). 12. Gough-square, No. 17 (1748). 13. Staple Inn (1758). 
 14. Gray's Inn. 15. Inner-Temple-lane, No. 1 (1760). 16. Johnson's-court, Fleet- 
 street, No. 7 (1765). 17. Bolt-court, Fleet-street, No. 8 (1776). 
 
STRAND. 703 
 
 built of wood, and remained till 1704 ; the garden extended northward, 
 its wall bounding Covent Garden Market. In Southampton-street is 
 a bar-gate ; the Duke of Bedford having power to erect walls and gates 
 at the end of every thoroughfare on his estate. Bedford- street oc- 
 cupies part of the site. Between these streets, east and west, is Maiden- 
 lane, where, in a secondfloor, lodged Andrew Marvell, M.P. for Hull, 
 when he refused a treasury-order for 1000/- brought to him by Lord 
 Danby from the king. At the sign of the White Peruke lodged Voltaire. 
 
 At No. 26 Maiden-lane, corner of Hand-court, was born, in 1773, J. W. M. 
 Turner, R.A., the landscape-painter. His father was a hair-dresser; and the 
 painter, when a boy, coloured prints for John R. Smith, of iMaiden-lane, a mez- 
 zotinto engraver. Turner removed to apartments in Hand-court, and during 
 his residence here he exhibited at the Royal Academy fitty-nine pictures. 
 
 Opposite is the Cyder Cellar, opened about 1730 : a curious tract, 
 Adventures underground, 1750, contains strange notices of this "mid- 
 night concert-room" (Rotes- and Queries, No. 28) : it was a haunt of 
 Professor Person's. 
 
 At No. 405 Strand, the Queen's Head public-house, lodged Thomas 
 Parr, when he was brought to London to be shown to Charles 1. ; as 
 stated to J. T. Smith, in 1814, by a person then aged 90, to whom the 
 house was pointed out by his grandfather, then 88. Smith's Streets. 
 
 No. 411 Strand, the Adelphi Theatre, Beazley ari-hitect (see 
 THEATRES). Westward are a few old house-fronts. No. 429, built for 
 the Westminster Fire and Life Insurance Office, by Cockerel], R.A., 
 has a facade of great originality : the figures (aquarii) over the prin- 
 cipal windows are beautifully characteristic. 
 
 No. 430, West Strand commences: King -William-street denotes the 
 reign in which the improvements were made (see CHARING CROSS 
 HOSPITAL, page 380). 
 
 No. 437, LOWTHER ARCADE. (See page 17.) 
 
 No. 448, Electric Telegraph Office. Upon the roof is the Electric 
 Time Signal Ball, completed in 1852 ; and in the roadway opposite is 
 an Illuminated Clock. The signal consists of a zinc ball, (j feet in dia- 
 meter, supported by a rod, which passes down the centre of the co- 
 lumn, and carries at its base a piston, which, in its descent, plunges 
 into a cast-iron air-cylinder ; the escape of the air being regulated so 
 as at pleasure to check the momentum of the ball, and prevent concus- 
 sion. The raising of the ball half-mast high takes place daily at 10 
 minutes to 1 ; at 5 minutes to 1 it is raised to its full height ; and at 1 
 precisely, and simultaneously with the fall of the ball at Greenwich, it 
 is liberated by the galvanic current sent from the Observatory through 
 a wire laid for that purpose. The same galvanic current which liber- 
 ates the ball in the Strand, moves a needle upon the transit- clock at 
 the Observatory : the time occupied by the transmission being about 
 l-3000lh part of a second ; and by the unloosing of the machinery which 
 supports the ball, less than one-fifth part of a second. The true mo- 
 ment of 1 o'clock is, therefore, indicated by the first appearance of 
 the line of light between the dark cross over the ball and the body of 
 the ball itself. In the event of accidental failure at 1 o'clock, the 
 ball is raised half-mast high, and dropped at 2 o'clock. When fully 
 raised, the ball is 129 feet above the level of the Thames, and falls 
 10 feet. The Clock in the roadway is moved by a voltaic current from 
 a regulator in the office, which is daily set right by the fall of the ball. 
 
 No. 452, the Golden Cross Hotel : the old inn stood further west. 
 
 " I often," says Charles Lamb, " shed tears in the motley Strand, 
 for fulness of joy at so much life" (Letters, vol. i.). 
 
704 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 TATTERSALL'S, 
 
 The celebrated sporting rendezvous, technically "the Corner" (i.e. 
 at Hyde Park Corner), lies in the rear of St. George's Hospital, and is 
 approached from Grosvenor-place. Richard Tattersall, who was train- 
 ing-groom to the second and last Duke of Kingston, in 1779, bought of 
 Lord Bolingbroke the race-horse " Highflyer," and had previously esta- 
 blished " Tattersall's." It consists of a court-yard, with a small circu- 
 lar temple over a pump, surmounted by the figure of a fox, the dome 
 bearing a bust of George IV. in his eighteenth year. Here is a well- 
 designed subscription-room, by George Tattersall ; and a counting-house, 
 wherein hang the regulations, dated 1780. Here also are stables and 
 covered alleys, the characteristic of the place being neatness and well- 
 ordered system. The great public horse-auction is on Monday through- 
 out the year, and Thursday in the height of the season, when also Sun- 
 day is the great day at Tattersall's for the sporting aristocracy. Here 
 horses of 10,0001. value are sometimes sold in a day ; and the foreign 
 trade in thorough-bred horses is extensive. On show and sale davs the 
 display of horses is often very fine. The "Book-making" before the 
 Derby or St. Leger is crowded with peers and plebeians, butchers and 
 brokers, betting-list keepers, insurers, guardsmen and prize-fighters, 
 Manchester manufacturers, Yorkshire farmers, sham captains, ci-devant 
 gentlemen, &c. The subscription to " the Room," which is regulated 
 by the Jockey Club, is 21. 2s. per annum. Here is a cartoon of the 
 race-horse " Eclipse." We have seen a clever painting, by Alken, of the 
 horse-auction at Tattersall's. 
 
 TEMPLE (THE). (See p. 404) 
 TEMPLE BAR, 
 
 Between the east end of the Strand and the west end of Fleet-street, 
 divides the City of London from the liberty of Westminster ; or rather, 
 " it opens not immediately into the City itself (which terminated at 
 Ludgate), but into the liberty or freedom thereof" (Halton, 1708). 
 The original division from the county (hence Shire-lane) was bv posts 
 and rails, a chain, and a bar (as at Holborn, Smithfield, and Whitechapel 
 bars) placed across the street, and named from its immediate vicinity to 
 the Temple. At the coronation of Queen Mary, " the Temple-barre was 
 newly painted and hanged" (Stow). The bar gave place to " a house 
 of timber" raised across the street, with a narrow gateway under- 
 neath, and an entrance on the south side under the house above. This 
 was burned down in the Great Fire of 1666; after which the present 
 bar -gate was built by Sir Christopher Wren, of Portland-stone. The 
 basement is rusticated, and has a large flattened arch in the centre for 
 the carriage-way, and a smaller semicircular arch on each side for toot- 
 passengers. Each fagade has four Corinthian pilasters, an entabla- 
 ture, and arched pediment. On the west, in two niches, are statues of 
 Charles I. and Charles II. in Roman costume ; and over the keystone 
 of the centre arch were the royal arms : on the east, in similar niches, are 
 statues of James I. and his queen, Anne of Denmark (often described 
 as Elizabeth); and over the keystone were the City arms. Inscription: 
 " Erected in the year 1670, Sir Samuel Starling Mayor; continued in the 
 year 1671, Sir Richard Ford Lord Mayor; and finished in the year 1672, Sir 
 George Waterman Lord Mayor." 
 
 The upper portion has two bold cartouches, or scrolls, as supporters; 
 but the fruit and flowers sculptured in the pediment, and the supporters 
 of the royal arms, which were placed over the extremities of the pos- 
 terns (no'w widened), have disappeared ; the inscription is scarcely legi- 
 
TEMPLE BAR. 705 
 
 ble ; and the stone-work of the whole is weather-worn : in 1852 the 
 Common Council refused to spend 1500Z. to restore the bar as Wren 
 left it. The statues are by John Bushnell, who died in 1701 ; that of 
 Charles T. has lost the baton. In the centre of each facade is a semi- 
 circular-headed window, lighting an apartment now held of the 
 Dity, at an annual rent of 50/., by Messrs. Child, the bankers, as a de- 
 jository for their account-books. Above the centre of the pediment, 
 ipon iron spikes, were formerly placed the head and limbs of persons 
 executed for treason. The first of these revolting displays was one of 
 ;he quarters of Sir Thomas Armstrong, implicated in the Rye-House 
 Plot ; and next the quarters of Sir William Perkins and Sir John Friend, 
 and Perkins's head, who had conspired to assassinate William III. 
 
 'April 10, 1696. A dismal sight, which many pitied. I think there never 
 was such a Temple Bar till now, except in the time of King Charles II., viz. 
 Sir Thomas Armstrong." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 After the Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, the heads of some of the vic- 
 ;ims were placed upon the bar ; and in 1723, the head of Counsellor 
 Jayer, who had conspired for the restoration of the Pretender : Layer's 
 lead remained here 30 years, till blown down in a gale of wind, when it 
 was picked up in the street by an attorney. But the heads last set up 
 lere were those of Townley and Fletcher, the rebels, in 1746. Wal- 
 >ole writes, Aug. 16, 1746: " I have been this morning at the Tower, 
 and passed under the new heads at Temple Bar, where people make a 
 trade of letting spying-glasses at a halfpenny a look ;" and in 1825, a 
 jerson, aged 87, remembered the above heads being seen with a tele- 
 scope from Leicester Fields, the ground between which and Temple Bar 
 being then thinly built over. (J. T. Smith.) In 1766 a man was 
 detected discharging musket-balls, from a steel crossbow, at these two 
 leads; which, however, remained there until March 31, 1772, when one 
 of the heads fell down; and shortly after, the remaining one was swept 
 down by the wind.* The last of the iron poles, or spikes, was not re- 
 moved from the Bar until the commencement of the present century. 
 
 The old gates of Temple Bar remain : they are of oak, paneled, and 
 are surmounted by a rudely-carved festoon of fruit and flowers. These 
 gates were originally shut at night, and guarded by watchmen ; and in 
 our time they have been closed in cases of apprehended tumult. Upon 
 ;he visit of the Sovereign to the City, or upon the proclamation of a 
 new Sovereign or of Peace, it was formerly customary to keep the 
 fates closed, until admission was formally demanded; the gates were 
 ihen opened ; and upon the Royal visit, the Lord Mayor surrendered the 
 City sword to the Sovereign, who re-delivered it to the Mayor. 
 
 At Temple Bar the above ceremony was observed when Queen Elizabeth pro- 
 ceeded to St. Paul's to return thanks for the defeat of the Spanish Armada; when 
 Fairfax and Cromwell and the Parliament went in state to dine with the City ; 
 when Queen Anne went to St. Paul's to return thanks for the Duke of Marl- 
 jorough's victories; when Queen Victoria dined at Guildhall in the year of her 
 accession, 1837; and when Her Majesty went to open the New Royal Exchange 
 n 1844; but on the Queen's visit in 1851, the ceremony at Temple Bar was dis- 
 jensed with. The custom at the Proclamation of Peace, or the Accession of the 
 Sovereign, has been for a herald, attended by trumpeters, to knock with his 
 jaton at the closed gate, when the City Marshal inquired, " Who comes there?" 
 and the herald having replied, is admitted, and conducted to the Lord Mayor, 
 who directed that the whole of the cavalcade should be admitted ; and the pro- 
 clamation was read opposite Chancery-lane. Such was the observance upon the 
 
 * See Temple Bar, the City Golgotha, by a Member of the Middle Temple, 
 i. 4to, 1853, for a narrative of these occurrences, in illustration of the revolting 
 effects of capital punishments and public executions. 
 
 z z 
 
706 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 accession of George IV., William IV., and Queen Victoria In 1844 the cere- 
 mony consisted merely of closing the gates just before the royal procession reached 
 the bar, and re-opening them upon the announcement of the Queen's arrival. 
 
 At the funeral of the Duke of Wellington, Nov. 18, 1852, Temple 
 Bar was entirely covered with draperies of black cloth and velvet, and 
 cloth-of-gold; decorated with the armorial bearings and orders of the 
 Duke in proper colours ; silvered cornices, fringe, urns, and a circle of 
 flambeaux upon the pediment ; the whole presenting an impressive 
 effect of solemn triumph and gloomy grandeur. 
 
 The removal of Temple Bar has been a favourite subject o c agitation, 
 hitherto successfully resisted. A scarce print shows the Bar and the 
 adjoining gabled houses at the commencement of the 18th century ; and 
 the Bar was painted by Rooker in 1772. 
 
 THAMES RIVER (THE). 
 
 The situation of London upon the banks of the Thames, although 
 occupying little more than one-thirtieth of its entire course, renders it * 
 the most important commercial river in the world. The name is in- 
 ferred to be of British origin : Caesar writes it Tamesis, evidently Tames 
 or Thames with a Latin termination. The river rises in the south- 
 eastern slopes of the Coteswold Hills; for a short distance it divides 
 Gloucestershire from Wiltshire ; next Berkshire from Oxfordshire, and 
 then from Buckinghamshire ; it then divides Surrey and Middlesex, se- 
 parating the cities of Westminster and London from Lambeth, South- , 
 wark, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe; thence to its mouth, it divides 
 Kent and Essex, "and falls into the sea at the Nore, about 110 miles 
 nearly due east from the source, and about twice that distance measured 
 along the windings of the river. From having no sand-bar at its mouth, 
 it is navigable for sea-vessels to London Bridge, about 45 miles from the 
 Nore, or nearly one-fourth of its entire length ! In its course through 
 the metropolis, it varies from 800 to 1500 feet in breadth; gradually ex- 
 panding, as it approaches the Nore, to seven miles broad.* 
 
 Drayton describes, as renowned for "ships and swans, Queen Thames." 
 Cowley thus refers to Old London Bridge impeding the prospect : 
 
 " Stopp'd by the houses of that wondrous street, 
 Which rides o'er the broad river like a fleet." 
 
 Embankment. To the Romans we are indebted for the first em- 
 bankment of the Thames ; and, according to Tacitus, they pressed the 
 Britons into the work. The maintenance and repair of these embank- 
 ments have been traced to the reign of Edward I. ; but the encroach- 
 ments of wharfs and other buildings have materially contracted the 
 water-way immediately through the centre of the metropolis ; so that 
 the only relic of the old line is to be seen adjoining Waterloo Bridge. 
 For example: the distance of the river front from Westminster Hall, in 
 an old plan, is 100 feet ; it is now 300 feet. Several plans have been 
 proposed for the embankment of the Thames ; some including railways, 
 arcades, terraces, &c. The only portions yet embanked are the terraces 
 of the Custom House, Somerset House, the Adelphi, the New Houses of 
 Parliament, Thames Bank ; although, more than a century and a half 
 since, Wren designed " a commodious quay on the whole bank of the river, 
 from Blackfriars to the Tower." A showy architectural plan has been 
 published by Colonel Trench ; and in 1845, John Martin, the painter, 
 designed a railway along both sides of the Thames, with an open walk 
 
 * There is likewise the Thames, the largest river of the plain of Upper Canada; 
 npon whose banks is fast rising the City of London; reminding one, otherwise 
 than by name, of the glories of the metropolis of the mother-country. 
 
THAMES RIVER. 707 
 
 from Hungerford to the Tower, and from Vauxhall to Deptford. The 
 embankment of the river above Vauxhall Bridge is in progress ; it is to 
 be continued to Battersea Bridge.* 
 
 "London with Westminster, by reason of the turning of the river, much re- 
 sembles the shape (including Southwark) of a great whale: Westminster being 
 the under jaw; St. James's Park the mouth; the Pall Mai), &c. northward, the 
 upper jaw; Cock and Pye Fields, or the meeting of the seven streets, the eye; 
 the rest of the City and Southwark to East Smithfield, the body; and thence east- 
 ward to Limehouse, the tail : and 'tis, probably, in as great a proportion the 
 largest of towns, as that is of fishes." Hatton, 1708. 
 
 The very bold reach made by the Thames adds greatly to the effect of the 
 prospect ; and by this means, before the addition of the present front of Bucking- 
 ham Palace, the Sovereign, when seated upon her throne, commanded a view of 
 the dome of St. Paul's, and the spires and towers of the City churches. 
 
 The Tide ascends about 15 miles above London Bridge to Teddington 
 (Tide-end-town) : here an immense volume of fresh water, derived from 
 the arc of the drainage of the Thames, (calculated at 800,000,000 gallons 
 a-day, or about 16 square miles, 90 feet deep), flows over Teddington 
 Lock, and mixes with the water below. Even at ebb-tide there are 12 
 or 13 feet of water in the fair way of the river above Greenwich ; the 
 mean range of the tides at London Bridge is about 17 feet; of the 
 highest spring-tides about 22 feet. Up to Woolwich the river is navi- 
 gable for ships of any burden ; to Blackwall for those of 1400 tons. 
 
 Thames Sports and Pageants. Fitzstephen chronicles the water 
 tournament and quintain (see page 16). Richard II. was rowed in his 
 tapestried barge, probably the first royal barge upon the Thames: and 
 here the king, seeing the'poet Gower, called him on board, and com- 
 manded him "to make a book after his best," which was the origin of 
 the Confessio Amantis. In the 15th and 16th centuries, and onward to 
 very recent days, each palace on the north bank of the Thames had its 
 water-gate, and its retinue of barge and wherries. The Thames was 
 the royal road from Westminster and Whitehall to the Tower, and 
 from thence to Greenwich. State prisoners were conveyed by the 
 Thames to the Traitor's Gate at the Tower, and the Star- Chamber 
 victims to a similar gate at the Fleet. The landing-places on the 
 Thames appear to have been even less changed than the thoroughfare 
 itself; for in the account of the penance of Eleanor Cobham, Duchess 
 of Gloucester, in 1440, we find named Temple-bridge (stairs), the Old 
 Swan, and Queenhithe ; and in early maps of London, are Broken 
 Wharf, Paul's Wharf, Essex Stairs, and Whitehall Stairs; all which 
 exist by the same names to the present day. Cardinal Wolsey, when 
 he delivered up York Place, "took his barge at his privy stairs, and so 
 went by water to Putney," on his way to Asher. Sir Thomas More 
 kept his great barge at Chelsea, which he gave to Sir Thomas Audley, 
 his successor in the chancellorship, with whom he placed his eight 
 watermen. In the " Aqua Triumphalis," in 1662, the City welcomed 
 Charles II. from Hampton Court to Whitehall, the barges of the 
 twelve companies being carried as far as Chelsea ; and mostly all ended 
 with a pageant. James II., 1688, embarked at Whitehall : " Irsaw him 
 take barge," says Evelyn ; " a sad sight." The last primate who kept 
 his state barge at Lambeth was Archbishop Wake, who died 1737 (see 
 page 446). Early in the 17th century, Howel numbers among the 
 river glories, " forests of masts which are perpetually upon her ; the 
 variety of smaller wooden bottoms playing up and down;" and Stow 
 computes that there were in his time 2000. In 1630, the river had its 
 own laureat, John Taylor " the Water-poet" : 
 
 * In a river-side cottage, between the old church at Chelsea and Battersea- 
 bridge, died, Dec. 19, 1851, J. M. W. Turner, R.A., the landscape-painter. 
 
708 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " But, noble Thames, whilst I can hold a pen, 
 I will divulge thy glory unto men : 
 Thou, in the morning, when my com is scant, 
 Before the evening doth supply my want." 
 
 Taylor knew Ben Jonson ; and the water-poet " probably had the good 
 fortune to ferry Shakspere from Whitehall to Paris Garden." Knight. 
 
 The existing sports on the Thames consist of rowing, boat-racing, 
 and yachting, or sailing, throughout the summer and autumn ; by clubs, 
 numbering several members of the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, 
 and London ; the scholars of Westminster, St. Paul's, and other aca- 
 demic foundations. The match for Dogget's coat and silver badge is 
 rowed for every 1st of August (see page 350). The proprietors of Vaux- 
 hall Gardens, and Astley the rider, gave wherries to be rowed for ; as 
 did also Edmund Kean, the tragedian. In July 1776 a man safely 
 crossed the Thames in a butcher's tray, from Somerset Stairs, for a 
 wager ; upon which feat depended 14,000?. 
 
 The Thames Watermen formerly had their cant dialect, of which 
 Ned Ward and Tom Brown give specimens; and the "Thames ribald- 
 ry" (Spectator) has lasted to our time, in which watermen's disputes 
 liave been settled by Joe Hatch, "the Thames Chancellor." 
 
 State Barges. The first water pageant of the City of London dates 
 from 1454, when John Norman, the mayor, was rowed to Westminster 
 in his barge; but the companies had their barges for water processions 
 half a century before this ; and the grocers' accounts, temp. Henry VI., 
 mention the hiring of barges to attend the sheriffs' show by water. Hall 
 chronicles the mayor and citizens accompanying Anne Boleyn at her 
 coronation, in 1533, from Greenwich to the Tower, in their barges. The 
 barge is retained in the Lord Mayor's state, which includes the water- 
 bailiff, one of his lordship's esquires, with a salary of 500?. a year, a 
 shallop, and eight men ; and in the suite are a barge-master, and thirty- 
 two city watermen. The Lord Mayor's barge is richly carved and gilt, 
 and cost in 1807, 2579Z. A few of the City companies maintain their state 
 barges "to attend my Lord Mayor:" as the Fishmongers, Vintners, 
 and Dyers, Stationers, Skinners, and Watermen. The Goldsmith* 
 Company sold their barge in 1850, and have not replaced it. The 
 swan-upping excursions of the Dyers and Vintners are described at 
 page 362. A capacious barge is kept for civic feasts : the present 
 barge, built in 1816, was named "the Maria Wood" (from the then 
 Lord Mayor's eldest daughter), and cost 50001. The Queen maintains 
 her river state ; and one of the royal barges, built nearly a century and 
 a quarter since, is a curious craft : the rowers wear scarlet state liveries. 
 The Lords of the Admiralty have likewise their state barge. 
 
 State Funerals by the 'Thames are rare : the remains of Anne of 
 Bohemia, and Henry VII., who died at Kichmond, were conveyed with 
 great pomp by the river to Westminster; and the body of Queen Eliza- 
 beth was "brought by water to Whitehall." The remains of Lord 
 Nelson, after lying in state in the Painted Hall of Greenwich Hospital, 
 were conveyed by the Thames* to the Admiralty, Jan. 8, 1806, and next 
 day were buried in St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 THE PORT OF LONDON is described at pages 623-24. 
 
 The Bridges across the Thames at the metropolis are described at 
 pages 54 to 63. A new iron suspension-bridge from Chelsea to Batter- 
 sea Park was commenced in 1853. The erection of a new iron bridge 
 at Westminster, very near the site of the old bridge, was begun in 
 
 * The Author of this volume, born August 17, 1801, has a distinct recollec- 
 tion of having seen this Funeral Procession upon the Thames from a back win- 
 dow of a house at the south foot of London Bridge. 
 
THAMES RIVER. 709 
 
 1854 : the new bridge to be of Gothic design, with seven arches, the 
 centre one to have only 20 feet headway ; the entire width 85 feet. 
 These new bridges are designed by Thomas Page, C.E. 
 
 The two Churches immediately below London Bridge attest the occupation of 
 London by the Danes and Northmen: St. Olave's Southwark, originally dedicated 
 to the Norwegian king, Olaf the Saint; and St. Magnus the Martyr, from St. 
 Magnus, a Norwegian jarl, killed in the 12th century in Orkney, where the 
 cathedral in Kirkwall is also dedicated to him. 
 
 THE DOCKS (which have cost more than 8,000,OOOZ. in the present 
 century) are described at pages 254-57. 
 
 Thames Water has been supplied to London since 1580, when Peter 
 Morrys, by means of a wheel and force-pumps, carried the water over 
 the steeple of St. Magnus's Church to " the Standard in Cornhill," 
 But the Thames water, once limpid and clear, has grown turbid with 
 the increase of population upon the river banks : it is now a huge 
 sewer, which, long before it reaches London, receives the refuse of a 
 hundred towns and villages, and the surface drainage of 6600 acres. 
 In the meantime fish have disappeared from between Putney Bridge 
 and Greenwich. But the adulterating matters are, in some measure, 
 decomposed by the vegetation at the bottom and sides of the river. 
 
 Sir Jonas More (or Moore), F.R.S., surveyor of the Ordnance temp. Charles 
 II., says: " The Thames water, taken up about Greenwich, at low water, where 
 it is free from all brackishness of the sea, and has in it all the fat and sullage 
 from the great city of London, makes very strong drink ;" and, again, for sea- 
 stores, "it will of itself alone, being carried to sea, ferment wonderfully; and 
 after its due purgations, and three times stinking (after which it continues sweet), 
 it will be so strong that several sea commanders have told me it would burn, 
 and has often fuddled their mariners." England's Interest, 12mo, 1703. 
 
 The Chelsea Water-works were first established in 1723, when a 
 canal was dug from the Thames, near Ranelagh, to Pimlico ; thence 
 the Company removed near to the site of Ranelagh Gardens, where 
 the water is filtered in reservoirs, several acres in extent. 
 
 The Conservancy of the Thames by the Corporation of London dates 
 from 1st Edward IV. ; the Mayor acting as bailiff over the waters (in 
 preserving its fisheries and channels), and as meter of marketable com- 
 modities fruit, garden-stuff, salt, and oysters, corn and coal from 
 Staines to Yantlett Creek (80 miles). The Admiralty also claims a cer- 
 tain jurisdiction ; and the Corporation of the Trinity House has autho- 
 rity to remove shoals, to regulate lastage and ballastage, to provide 
 lighthouses and beacons, to license pilots, mariners, &c. The River 
 Police was first established in 1798. 
 
 Fish. Fitzstephen describes the Thames, at London;, as " a fishful 
 river ;" and its fishermen were accustomed to present their tithe of sal- 
 mon at the high altar of St. Peter, and claim on that occasion the right 
 to sit at the Prior of Westminster's own table. At this period the river, 
 even below the site of the present London Bridge, abounded with fish. 
 In 1376-77, a law was passed in parliament for the saving of salmon and 
 other fry offish; and, in 1381-82, "swannes" that came through the 
 bridge, or beneath the bridge, were the fees of the Constable of the 
 Tower. Howel says : " When the idler was tired of bowls, he had no- 
 thing to do but to step down to Queenhithe or the Temple," and have an 
 afternoon of angling. " Go to the river : what a pleasure it is to go 
 thereon in the summer time, in boat or barge, or to go a-floundering 
 among the fishermen!" In the regulations, too, of the " Committee of 
 Free Fishermen" is a provision that fishermen were not to come nearer 
 London than the Old Swan, on the north bank of the river, and St. Mary 
 Overies, on the south. Formerly, Blackfriars and Westminster bridges 
 were anglers' stations; but the fish have now disappeared from the 
 
710 CURIOSITIES OF LONTX)N. 
 
 Thames at London. Blackwall is, however, still famed for its white- 
 bait (see page 49), and fish are taken in the docks below London Bridge. 
 Salmon has not been taken In the Thames for thirty rears. Strange fish 
 hare strayed here. In 1391,* a dolphin, "ten feet in length," played 
 himself in the Thames at London to the bridge. ETelyn tells of a whale, 
 fifty-eight feet in length, killed between Deptford and Greenwich in 
 1658 ; and nearer the mouth of the river (at Grays) a whale of the 
 above length was taken in 1809, and another in 1849. *' In 1783, a two- 
 toothed cachalot. 21 ft. long,was taken above London Bridge," Pennant. 1 
 
 The Steam, Navigation of the Thames exceeds that of any other river 
 in the world. The first steam-boat left the Thames, for Richmond, in 1814;! 
 the next, for Gravesend, in 1815; and in the same year for Margate. 
 The Gravesend steamers soon superseded the sailing-boats with decks, 
 which, in 1737, had displaced the tilt-boats mentioned temp. Richard II. * 
 The Margate steamers, in like manner, superseded the sailing "hoy." 
 
 FROSTS AXD FBOST FAIRS o>~ THE THAMES, see pp. 315-19. 
 
 THE ISLE OF DOGS, the horse-shoe curve between Limehouse and 
 Blackwall, is described at page 49. It has a population of 5000. Here 
 are the building-works (twenty-five acres) of Alderman Cubitt, at 
 whose expense was built the Earlv English church at the south-east ex- 
 tremitv of the island. (See Account ofMilltcall, &c., by H. B. Cowper, 
 1854.)" 
 
 The Folly on the Thames was a floating " musical summer-house," 
 usually moored between Somerset-stairs and the Savoy. It was called . 
 '' The Royal Diversion," from the queen of William III. having once 
 visited it ; " the Folly, perhaps, from the foolish things there sometimes 
 acted." (ffatton.) At length it became "a confused scene of folly,!] 
 madness, and debauchery," and the building fell into decay. 
 
 THAMES-STREET, 
 
 In Stow's time StockfisTimonger's Ro\c, extends from Puddle Dock, 
 Blackfriars, to the Tower. The line abounds^ with archaeological interest. 
 
 UPPER THAMES-STREET: Puddle Itock was the wharf of one 
 Puddle, and next Puddle Water, from horses watered there. Ben Jon- ] 
 son calls it *' our Abvdos." Shadwell, in his comedy of Epsom Wellf t \ 
 1676, has "the Countess of Pudde Dock;" and Hogarth, in 1732, met I 
 " the Duke of Puddle Dock," at the Dark-house. Billingsgate. Upon 
 the site of old Puddle Dock is built the City Flour Mill, by far the 
 largest flour-mill in the world, and a gigantic example of mechanical 
 skill. It is constructed entirelv upon piles, and occupies rather more than 
 an acre, or 250 feet long by 60 feet wide. The mill consists of eight 
 stories : two steam-enginesj of the consecutive power of 300 horses, 
 drive 60 pairs of enormous mill-stones, and work the Archimedean 
 screws and buckets by which the flour is conducted through the dif- 
 ferent processes. This mill has stowage for 40,000 quarters of grain ; 
 can prepare 4000 quarters per week, and requires only one-sixth of 
 the number of hands employed by the old system. 
 
 Castle Saynard Wharf denotes the site of Baynard's Castle, de- 
 scribed at page 4. Nearly opposite is Adel or Addle Hill, where stood 
 the palace of the Anglo-S"axon kings, erected by Athelstan. 
 
 Boss-court is so called (sajs Stow) from a spring-water boss, or 
 mouth, put up by the executors of Sir Richard Whittington. 
 
 From Lambeth-hill to Queenhithe have been excavated portions of 
 the river-wall mentioned by Frtzstephen. 
 
 QUEEXHITH-E, see p. 638. Garlick-hill was of old the garlick hithe. 
 
 Dowgate, or Doumegate, was named from its steep descent to the 
 river; or from its being the Dover or Water gate to Watting- street 
 
THAMES-STREET. 711 
 
 (Maitland) ; near the church of St. Mary Bothaw (destroyed in the Great 
 Fire, and not rebuilt), was the mansion of Sir Francis Drake. 
 
 The Steelyard is named from its being the place where the King's 
 steelyard, or beam, was set up for weighing goods imported into Lon- 
 don ( T. Hudson Turner). The site is mostly covered with iron-wharfs. 
 
 Coldharbour-lane denotes the site of Coldharbour, a magnificent 
 mansion, 13 Edward II. (Rymer's Fcedera). It was next the property 
 of Sir John Poultney ; in 1397, John Holland, Duke of Exeter, enter- 
 tained here Richard II. ; Henry V. possessed it when Prince of Wales ; 
 Richard III., in 1485, granted it to the College of Heralds ; Henry VIII. 
 exchanged it for Durham House, Strand : it is shown in ruins, in Hol- 
 lar's View of London after the Great Fire of 1666. The etymology of 
 Coldharbour is a qucestio , vexata. Sir John Poultney received for his 
 mansion, yearly, a rose at midsummer, whence, or from the wars of 
 York and Lancaster, the estate was named " the Manor of the Rose." 
 Upon Laurence Pountney Hill are two elaborately carved doorways ; 
 and some of the houses have stone-groined vaults. Upon Laurence 
 Pountney Hill lived Dr. William Harvey, with his brothers Daniel and 
 Eliab, merchants: here Harvey discovered the circulation of the blood. 
 
 In Suffolk-lane is MERCHANT TAYLORS' SCHOOL (see page 217). 
 
 Old Sioan Stairs was a Thames landing-place in the loth century. 
 Here were the Old Wine Shades, beneath the terrace of the former 
 Fishmonger's Hall; the present Shades is the house built for Lord 
 Mayor Garratt, who laid the first stone of London Bridge in 1825. 
 
 Old Swan House, facing the river, is remarkable for a mercantile concern, 
 three successive heads of which have served the offices of Sheriff and Lord 
 Mayor. It was founded by Alderman Sir William Stephenson, who was suc- 
 ceeded by Alderman Sir John Sawbridge, M.P., who, in 1795, was succeeded by 
 Alderman George Scholey. No such succession in the list of magistrates is to 
 be found in any other parish in the city. Wilson's St. Laurence Pountney, p. 6. 
 
 At the upper end of St. Mar tin's -lane, Cannon-street East, has 
 been built a Rectory-house, with a handsome campanile, 110 feet high. 
 Thames-street has long been noted for its cheese- factors' warehouses: 
 " : Thames-street gives cheeses." Gay's Trivia. 
 
 The south side of Upper Thames Street is mostly occupied by wharfs, once the 
 site of river-side palaces. In the lanes, upon the north side, are several merchants' 
 mansions, " which, if not exactly equal to the palaces of stately Venice, might at 
 least vie with many of the hotels of old Paris. Some of these, though the great 
 majority have been broken up into chambers and counting-houses, still remain 
 intact." B. D' Israeli, jun. 
 
 Upper Thamas-street retains some old signs : as, a bas-relief of a Gardener 
 with a spade, 1670; the Doublet (upon iron, once gilt), at Crawshay's iron-wharf, 
 No. 36 (originally the "Sir John Anvil" of the Spectator, No. 299). Upon 
 Lambeth-hill, over Crane-court, is a erane carved in stone..) 
 
 - LOWER THAMES-STREET: Fish-street Hill; THE MONUMENT (see 
 page 509). Here was the entrance to Crooked-lane, noted for its old 
 fishing-tackle shops, handy for the anglers at London Bridge. 
 
 Pudding-lane (from butchers scalding hog's puddings there) com- 
 menced the GREAT FIRE of 1666 (see page 293). 
 
 Next is BILLINGSGATE (pp. 45 and 495.) (CoAL EXCHANGE, p. 281.) 
 
 In Water-lane remains part of the Old Trinity House, built by 
 "Wren ; and at the lower end of the lane is the finely-carved door-head- 
 way of the Ship Tavern. THE CUSTOM HOUSE is described at page 246. 
 
 At the east end of the street, in Stow's time, were the remains of a 
 stone mansion, said to have been the lodging of the Princes of Wales ; 
 hence this part of the street was called Petty Wales. It was also called 
 Galley Quay, from the galleys formerly lading and landing there. 
 Tradesmen's tokens in the seventeenth century were struck here, and 
 were hence called, vulgo, " Galley-quay halfpence." 
 
712 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 THAMES TUNNEL (THE), 
 
 A brick arched double roadway, under the Thames, between Wapping 
 and Rotherhithe, one of the grandest achievements of engineering skill. 
 
 In 1799 an attempt was made to construct an archway under the Thames, 
 from Gravesend to Tilbury, by Ralph Dodd, engineer; and in 1804 the 
 " Thames Archway Company" commenced a similar work from Rotherhithe to 
 Limehouse, under the direction of Vasey and Trevethick, two Cornish miners; 
 and the horizontal excavation had reached 1040 feet, when the ground broke in, 
 under the pressure of high tides, and the work was abandoned ; 54 engineers de- 
 claring it to be impracticable to make a tunnel under the Thames of any useful 
 size for commercial progression. 
 
 The present Tunnel was planned by I. K. Brunei, in 1S23 : among the 
 earliest subscribers to the scheme were the late Duke of Wellington 
 and Dr. Wollaston ; and in 1824 the " Thames Tunnel Company" was 
 formed to execute the work. A brickwork cylinder, 50 feet in dia- 
 meter, 42 feet high, and 3 feet thick, was first commenced by Mr. Bru- 
 nei at 150 feet from the Rotherhithe side of the river; and on March 2, 
 1825, a stone with a brass inscription-plate was laid in the brickwork, 
 Upon this cylinder, computed to weigh 1000 tons, was set a powerful 
 steam-engine, by which the earth was raised, and the water was drained 
 from within it ; the shaft was then sunk into the ground en masse, and 
 completed to the depth of 65 feet ; and at the depth of 63 feet the hori- 
 zontal roadway was commenced, with an excavation larger than the 
 interior of the old House of Commons. The plan of operation had 
 been suggested to Brunei, in 1814, by the bore of the sea- worm, Teredo 
 navalis, in the keel of a ship; showing how, when the perforation was 
 made by the worm, the sides were secured, and rendered impervious to 
 water, by the insect lining the passage with a calcareous secretion. 
 "With the auger-formed head of the worm in view, Brunei employed a 
 cast-iron " Shield," containing 36 frames or cells, in each of which was 
 a miner who cut down the earth; and a bricklayer simultaneously built 
 up from the back of the cell the brick arch, which was pressed forward 
 by strong screws. Thus were completed, from Jan. 1. 1826, to April 27, 
 1827, 540 feet of the Tunnel. On May 18 the river burst into the 
 works ; but the opening was soon filled up with bags of clay, the water 
 pumped out of the Tunnel, and the work resumed. At the length of 
 600 feet, the river again broke in ; six men were drowned ; and the rush 
 of the water carried Mr. Brunei, jun. up the shaft. 
 
 " Other great speculations have been nursed, 
 
 Till want of proceeds laid them on the shelf: 
 But thy concern was at the wors-t. 
 When it began to liquidate itself." 
 
 Ode to M. Brunei, by T. Hood. 
 
 The Tunnel was again emptied ; but the work was now discontinued, 
 for want of funds, for seven years. 
 
 " Well ! Monsieur Brunei, 
 How prospers now thy mighty undertaking, 
 To join by a hollow way the Bankside friends 
 Of Rotherhithe and \\apping? 
 Never be stopping ; 
 
 But poking, groping, in the dark keep making 
 An archway, underneath the dabs and gudgeons, 
 For coll ermen and pitchy old curmudgeons, 
 To cross the water in inverse proportion, 
 Walk under steam-boats, under the keel's ridge, 
 " To keep down all extortion, 
 ' And without sculls to diddle London Bridge ! 
 
THEATRES. 713 
 
 In a fresh hunt, a new great Bore to worry, 
 Thou didst to earth thy human terriers follow, 
 Hopeful at last, from Middlesex to Surrey , 
 
 To give us the 'view hollow.'" T. Hood. 
 
 Scores of plans were now proposed for its completion, and above 
 5000Z. were raised by public subscription. By aid of a loan sanc- 
 tioned by Parliament (mainly through the influence of the Duke of 
 Wellington), the work was resumed, and a new shield constructed, 
 March 1836, in which year were completed 117 feet ; in 1837, only 29 
 feet ; in 1838, 80 feet ; in 1839, 194 feet ; in 1840 (two months), 76 feet ; 
 and by November 1841 the remaining 60 feet, reaching to the shaft 
 which had been sunk at Wapping. On March 24 Brunei was knighted 
 by Queen Victoria ; on August 12 he passed through the Tunnel from 
 shore to shore ; and March 25, 1843, it was opened as a public thorough- 
 fare. It is lighted with gas, and is open to passengers, day and night, 
 at one penny toll. In each passage is a carriage-road and a footway ; 
 but the approaches for carriages have not yet been made. 
 
 The Tunnel has cost about 454.000/. ; to complete the carriage-descents 
 would require 180,OOOZ. ; total, 634,000*. The dangers of the work were 
 many : sometimes portions of the shield broke with the noise of a can- 
 non-shot; then alarming cries told of some irruption of earth or water : 
 but the excavators were much more inconvenienced by fire than water ; 
 gas explosions frequently wrapping the place in a sheet of flame, 
 strangely mingling with the water, and rendering the workmen insen- 
 sible. Yet, with all these perils, but seven lives were lost in making 
 the Thames Tunnel; whereas nearly 40 men were killed during the 
 building of new London Bridge. In 1833 Mr. Brunei submitted to 
 William IV., at St. James's Palace, "An Exposition of the Facts and 
 Circumstances relating to the Tunnel;" and Brunei has left a minute re- 
 cord of his great work. It is well described and illustrated in Weale's 
 Quarterly Papers on Engineering. A Visitors' Book is kept at the 
 Tunnel, wherein are the signatures of the many illustrious persons who 
 have inspected the works. It was visited by Queen Victoria July 26, 
 1843. In 1838 the number of visitors was 23,000 ; in 1839, 34,000. A 
 fine medal was struck at the completion of the work: obv. head of 
 Brunei ; rev. interior and longitudinal section of the Tunnel. A Fancy 
 Fair is held annually in the Tunnel, on Mar. 25, the anniversary of the 
 opening-day : here are permanently shops, and exhibitions of works of art. 
 
 Width of the Tunnel, 35 feet; height, 20 feet; each archway and footpath, clear 
 width, about 14 feet; thickness of earth between the crown of the Tunnel and the 
 bed of the river, about 15 feet. At full tide, the foot of the Tunnel is 75 leet 
 below the surface of the water. 
 
 The' Tunnel has been paralleled, as an engineering triumph, by Ste- 
 pherisou's tubular rail way- bridge. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 ADELPHI THEATRE, No. 411 Strand, was commenced in 1802 by 
 John Scott, a colourman, and opened 27 Nov. 1806, as the Sans Pareil, 
 with musical entertainments, and next year with dramas. In 1820-1 
 Scott sold the theatre to Rodwell and Jones, who named it the 
 Adelphi; in 1825 it was sold to Terry and Yates; and after Terry's 
 secession, Yates was joined by Charles Mathews the elder, who gave 
 here his latter " At Homes." The present compo' front of the theatre 
 was designed by Beazley, in 1840. Yates was succeeded by "Webster, 
 with Madame Celeste as directress. Its great attraction was John 
 Reeve, the low comedian, d. 1838. 
 
 ARGYLL ROOMS (the), Regent-street (see page 19), were originally 
 opened fpr the performance of opera and French plays. 
 
714 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ASTLEY'S AMPHITHEATRE, Bridge-road, Lambeth, is the fourth 
 theatre erected upon this site. The first was one of the 19 theatres built 
 by Philip Astley, and was opened in 1773, burnt in 1794; rebuilt 1795, 
 burnt 1803; rebuilt 1804, burnt June 8, 1841, within two hours, from 
 the house being principally constructed with old ship-timber. It 
 was rebuilt, and opened April 17, 1843, and has since been enlarged: 
 It is the only theatre in London for equestrianism; and the stud of 
 trained horses numbers from 50 to 60. 
 
 Philip Astley, originally a cavalry soldier, commenced horsemanship in 1763, 
 in an open field at Lambeth : he "built his first theatre partly with 60/., the 
 produce of an unowned diamond ring which he found on Westminster Bridge. 
 Andrew Ducrow, subsequently proprietor of the Amphitheatre, was born at the 
 Nag's Head, Borough, in 1793, when his father, Peter Ducrow, a native of 
 Bruges, was "the Flemish Hercules" at Astley's. The fire in 1841 arose from 
 ignited wadding, such as caused the destruction of the old Globe Theatre in 
 1613. and Covent Garden Theatre in 1808. Andrew Ducrow died Jan. 26, 1842, 
 of mental derangement and paralysis, produced by the above catastrophe. 
 
 BANKSIDE THEATRES. The earliest was the Circus built for bull- 
 baiting and bear-baiting, about 1520, in Paris Garden, named from 
 Robert de Paris, temp. Richard II., and now the site of Christchurch 
 parish. In this theatre, plays were also performed temp. James I., 
 when Henslowe and Alleyn were lessees. Nash, in his Strange Newes, 
 1590, mentions the performance of puppets there ; and Dekker asserts 
 that Ben Jonson had acted there (Satiromastix). Aggas's Map, 
 drawn about 1560, shows two circi lower down on "the Bank;" but 
 still lower were the Globe, the Hope, and the Rose. The Globe was 
 built by agreement, dated Dec. 22, 1593, for Richard Burbage, the 
 famous actor. In 1603 James I. granted a license to Shakspeare and 
 others to act "at their now usuall house, called the Globe. It was 
 of wood, hexagonal in exterior form, and was occupied by Shakspeare 
 as a summer theatre. At Dulwich College, in a paper, occurs " Mr. 
 Shaksper," in a list of "Inhabitants of Sowtherk, Jully, 1596;" he 
 was assessed in the liberty of the Clink in 1609, though his occupation 
 as an actor at the Globe did not continue after 1604:* his brother, 
 Edmond Shakspeare, was buried in St. Saviour's church, 1607. The 
 Globe was destroyed by fire June 29, 1613, when Ben Jonson was pre- 
 sent ; it was rebuilt in 1614, but is not mentioned after 1648 : it was 
 built on the site of Globe-alley, which led from Maid-lane to " the 
 Bank," and is now included in the premises of Barclay and Perkins's 
 Brewery (see the Map in Strype's Stow, 1720). The Hope, used both 
 for bear-baiting and as a playhouse, was situated near the Rose : in 
 1614 Ben Jonson's Bartholomew Fair was first acted here; later it 
 was used for prize-fighting, and in 1632 again for bear-baiting. The 
 Rose, probably the oldest theatre upon Bankside, except Paris Garden 
 (Collier}, was built long before 1597 : it was held for some years by 
 Philip Henslowe, afterwards Alleyn's partner ; it occupied the site of 
 Rose-alley, west of Globe-alley (see Strype's Map). The Swan was 
 in repute anterior to 1598. Both the Rose and Swan, after 1620, were 
 only occupied occasionally by gladiators and fencers ; and about 1648 
 all theatres were suppressed. (See the Antwerp View of London.) 
 
 BLACKFRIABS THEATRE was built in 1575, upon part of the site of 
 the monastery of Blackfriars. between Apothecaries' Hall and Printing- 
 house-square, and upon Playhouse-yard. The first proprietors were 
 
 * The Globe Theatre stood upon a spot of ground now occupied by four houses 
 contiguous to the present Globe-alley, Maid-lane. (Mirror, March 31, 1832). We 
 remember a large tavern, the Globe, in Chaingate, destroyed by fire about 1812. 
 Pennant was told that the door of the Globe Theatre was very lately (1790) 
 standing. See Knight's Stratford Shakspere, vol. i. 1854. 
 
THEATRES. 715 
 
 James Burbage and his fellows, who, with other players, had been 
 ejected from the City by an act of Common Council : it was a winter 
 theatre, arranged like an"inn-yard (the earliest theatre), but with a roof 
 over it. Shakspeare was a sharer in the Blackfriars playhouse in 
 1589; it was rebuilt in 1596; and was leased by Edward Alleyn in 
 1618 (see his Diary, at Dulwich College). It was taken down in 1655 
 (Collier's Life of Shakspeare), and dwelling-houses were built upon 
 the ground. (See BLACKFRIARS, p. 48.) 
 
 BRUNSWICK. THEATRE (the) was built upon the site of the Royalty 
 Theatre (see p. 720), within seven months, by Stedman Whitwell, C.E. 
 The fa$ade resembled that of San Carlos at Naples. It was opened 
 Feb. 25, 1828 ; but within three nights, on Feb. 28, during a day re- 
 hearsal, the whole theatre fell to the ground, and killed ten persons, 
 among whom was a proprietor, D. S. Maurice, a tasteful printer, of 
 Fenchurch-street. The catastrophe was caused by the unsafe iron 
 roof and the great weights attached to it. A narrative of the accident 
 was written from the evidence of one of the survivors, who was extri- 
 cated from the ruins. See also The Brunswick, a poem, 1829. 
 
 COCKPIT or PH<ENIX THEATRE (from its sign), Drury-lane, occu- 
 pied the site of Cockpit-alley, now Pitt-place, opposite the Castle 
 Tavern, St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. It was altered from a cockpit, and 
 when a theatre it was twice nearly destroyed by the London appren- 
 tices ; and was pulled down in 1649 by soldiers, instigated by sectarian 
 bigots. At the Restoration, Rhodes, a bookseller, rebuilt the theatre, 
 but soon vacated it ; and Sir W. Davenant, with Betterton and Kynas- 
 ton in his company, performed here till 1662, when they removed to 
 Portugal-row (see p. 624). At the Cockpit was performed the first 
 play in print, The Wedding, by Shirley, printed in 1629, and expressly 
 said to have been acted at Drury-lane. 
 
 COTENT GARDEN THEATRE, Bow-street, is the second theatre built 
 here. The first theatre was built upon part of the Convent site, by 
 Shepherd, architect of Goodman's Fields Theatre. Covent Garden was 
 opened Dec. 7, 1732, by Rich, the celebrated harlequin ; and Hogarth's 
 caricature of " Rich's Glory, on his Triumphant Entry into Covent 
 Garden," refers to his removal here : it shows one entrance, a magnifi- 
 cent Ionic archway, at the end of the eastern arcade of the Piazza. Here 
 the Beefsteak Society was formed in 1735, by Rich and Lambert the 
 scene-painter. In 1746 Garrick played here for the season. In 1803 
 John Kemble became a proprietor and stage-manager. On Sept. 20, 
 1808, the theatre was burned to the ground, and twenty persons killed 
 in the'ruins. It was rebuilt by R. Smirke, R.A. The first stone was 
 laid by the Prince of Wales, Dec. 31, 1808 ; and the theatre was opened 
 Sept. 18, 1809, when the " new prices" caused the O. P. (old prices) 
 riot of seventy-seven nights, since which " a London audience has been 
 found more captious than they previously had been" (C. Dibdin). In 
 1817 John Kemble here took leave of the public ; and in 1840 retired 
 his brother, Charles Kemble. The theatre was subsequently leased to 
 Mr. C. Mathews and Madame Vestris, and Mr. Macready. In 1843-45 
 it was let to the Anti- Corn-Law League, who held a bazaar here in 
 1845 (see page 37). In 1847 the auditory was entirely reconstructed 
 by Albano, and opened as an Italian Opera April 6. The exterior has 
 a pure Grecian-Doric portico, copied from the Temple of Minerva at 
 Athens ; and statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and two panels of bas- 
 relief figures, by Flaxman. 
 
 The northern panel has figures of ^Eschylus, Aristophanes, and Maeander; 
 Thalia, Polyhymnia, Euterpe, and Clio ; Minerva and Bacchus ; Melpomone, two 
 Furies, and Apollo. In the southern panel are figures of Shakspeare summoning 
 
716 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Caliban, Ferdinand, Miranda, Prospero, and Ariel ; Hecate and Lady Macbeth. 
 Also Milton, with Urania and Samson Agonistes, an incident from Comvs, &c 
 
 First Appearances. Incledon, the singer, 1790; Charles Kemble, 1794; Mrs. 
 Glover, 1797; G. F. Cooke (Richard III.), Oct. 31. 1800; Miss Stephens (Countess 
 of Essex), 1812; Miss O'Neill (Lady Beecher), 1814; Macready, 1816 ; W. Farren, 
 1818; Fanny Kemble, 1829; Adelaide Kemble, 1841. Here Edmund Kean last 
 acted, 1833. 
 
 CURTAIN THEATRE (the), Holywell, is mentioned in 1577. Stow, 
 speaking of the priory of St. John Baptist, says : " Near thereunto are 
 builded two publique houses for the acting and showe of comedies, tra- 
 gedies, and histories, for recreation ; whereof the one is called The 
 Courtein, the other The Theatre, both standing on the south-west side, 
 towards the field " (Stow, 1st edit. 1599). Both theatres are mentioned 
 in Northbrook's Treatise against Dieting, Dancing, Vain Plays or 
 Interludes, 1577; by Stubbes in his Anatomic of Abuses, 1583; in a 
 black-letter ballad, in the Pepysian collection, occurs " the Curtain at 
 Holywell ;" and in an epigram by Heath, 1610. Sir H. Herbert's office- 
 book shows that in 1622 the Curtain was occupied by the servants of 
 Prince Charles. Aubrey (1678) describes it as "a kind of nursery or 
 obscure playhouse, calle'd the Greene Curtain, situate in the suburbs 
 towards Shoreditch." After it was abandoned as a playhouse, prize- 
 fighters exhibited here. Sir Henry Ellis (Hist. Shoreditch,l~98) quotes 
 from the parish books several entries of the marriage, burial, &c. of 
 players. Maitland (Hist. London, 1772) mentions some remains of the 
 Curtain standing at or near his time. It is said to have occupied the 
 site of the curtain close (curtis cenobii) of the priory. The name sur- 
 vives in Curtain-road. 
 
 DRURY-LANE THEATRE, between Drury-lane and Brydges-street, 
 forming the east side of Little Russell- street. The first theatre here 
 was built precisely upon this site for Thomas Killigrew, and opened 
 April 8, 1663 ; the company being called " the King's Servants," as 
 Davenant's were " the Duke's Servants," both under patents granted 
 by Charles II. in 1660. Drury-lane, "the King's Theatre," had the 
 chief entrance in Little "Russell-street. Pepys's Diary records many 
 of his visits to " the King's House," and other London theatres, from 
 1660 to 1670. " The King's House" was burnt down Jan. 1671-72. 
 It was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened March 26, 1674, 
 with a prologue and epilogue by Dryden. Mr. Collier has printed in 
 the Shakespeare Society's Paper's, vol". iv. p. 147, an indenture showing 
 Dryden to have been joined with Killigrew, Hart, Mohun, and others, 
 in the speculation of this " new playhouse." In 1682 the King's and 
 Duke's companies played here together. Rich, Steele, Dogget, "SVilks, 
 Cibber, and Booth were successively patentees ; and Garrick in 1747, 
 when he opened the theatre, Sept. 15, with the well-known prologue 
 written by Dr. Johnson, and commenced the revival of Shakspeare's 
 plays. On June 10, 1776, Garrick here took leave of the stage. Sheri- 
 dan then became part- proprietor; and, in 1788, John Kemble manager. 
 In 1791 the old theatre was taken down, rebuilt by Holland, and the new- 
 theatre opened March 12, 1794. 
 
 It vas called by Mrs. Siddons "the Wilderness." The opening for the cur- 
 tain was 43 feet wide and 38 feet high, or nearly seven times the height of the 
 performers. There were seats for 3600 persons ; but upwards of 5000 persons 
 are known to have been squeezed into this theatre. 
 
 It was burnt down Feb. 24, 1809. The present house, built by B. 
 Wyatt, from the plan of the great Bordeaux theatre, was opened Oct. 
 12, 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. In 1818 the theatre was 
 let, at JO,200Z per annum, to Elliston for whom Beazley reduced the 
 auditory, added the Doric portico in Brydges-street, and the cast-iron 
 
THEATRES. 717 
 
 colonnade in Little Russell-street in 1831. In the hall is a cast of 
 Scheemakers's statue of Shakspeare, and a statue of Kean by S. Joseph. 
 The staircases and rotunda are magnificent, and the interior circular 
 roof of the auditory is geometrically fine. 
 
 First Appearances. Nell Gwynne, at "the King's House," 1666; Barton 
 Booth, 1701: Mrs. Siddons, 1775; John P. Kemhle, 1783; Harriet Mellon 
 (Duchess of St. Albans), 1795; Edmund Kean, 1814. Here Macready took leave 
 of the stage, Feb. 26, 1851. 
 
 The first Drury-lane Theatre was sometimes called Govent Garden Theatre ; 
 and the late Mr. Richardson, of the Piazza Coffee-house, possessed a ticket in- 
 scribed, " For the Music at the Playhouse in Covent Garden, Tuesday, March 6, 
 1704." /. T. Smith. 
 
 DORSET- GARDENS THEATRE (the) was built at the extremity of 
 Salisbury-court, Fleet-street, and had a handsome front and stairs to 
 the Thames. It was opened in 1671, under the management of Lady 
 Davenant. Dryderi, in his prologue to Marriage a-la-Mode, 1672, 
 leaves contemptuously to the citizens " the gay shows and gaudy 
 scenes" of Dorset-gardens. Here Shadwell's operatic version of Shak- 
 speare's Tempest was produced with great splendour in 1673. After 
 1697 the theatre was let to wrestlers and fencers, but was taken down 
 about 1720, and the site is now occupied by the City Gas-works, The 
 theatre was designed by Wren, and the sculpture by Gibbons, in- 
 cluding figures of Comedy and Tragedy surmounting the balustrade. 
 
 DUKE'S THEATRE, " the Opera," Lincoln's-Inn Fields. (See POR- 
 TUGAL-STREET, pp. 624-5.) Here, May 10, 1735, Macklin killed his 
 brother-actor Hallam, by accident, in a quarrel. 
 
 EAGLE TAVERN THEATRE, City-road, was built adjoining the tea- 
 gardens, by Thomas Rouse, for regular dramatic entertainments (chiefly 
 opera) ; and the audience were formerly allowed to enjoy their pota- 
 tions, in the pit, boxes, and gallery, during the performances. 
 
 FORTUNE THEATRE (the) named from its sign, 
 " The picture of Dame Fortune 
 
 Before the Fortune playhouse" (Heywood) 
 
 was built for Philip Henslowe and William Alleyn, in 1599-1600, on the 
 'east side of Goiding-lane, without Cripplegate. It cost 1320/., and was 
 opened May 1601. It was a square timber and lath-and-plaster build- 
 ing, and was burnt Dec. 9, 1621 (Alleyn's Diary); but was rebuilt on a 
 circular plan, of brick, and tiled. The interior was burnt in 1649 
 Prynne says by accident, but it was fired by sectarians. In the Mer~ 
 curius Politicus, Feb. 14-21, 1661, the building, with the ground 
 thereunto belonging, were advertised " to be lett to be built upon ;" and 
 it is described as standing between " Whitecross-street and Golen- 
 lane," the avenue now known as Playhouse-yard. 
 
 GIBBON'S-COURT THEATRE, Clare Market. (See page 496.) 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS THEATRE was first opened as a silk-throwster's 
 shop, in 1 729, by Thomas Odell, and was rebuilt by Henry Giffard; 
 both of whom were, however, compelled to close the theatre by the 
 puritanical clamour raised against it. Giffard returned to Goodman's 
 Fields in 1737 ; and here, Oct. 19, 1741, David Garrick first appeared 
 in London as Richard III. The town were " horn-mad" after Garrick's 
 acting; but Walpole saw "nothing wonderful in it," and Gray was 
 " stiff in opposition." The house was taken down about 1746. Gar- 
 rick's first appearance at the Goodman's Fields Theatre arose from its 
 proprietor being alga manager of the Ipswich company, in which Gar- 
 rick first appeared ort the stage. In 1830 a "Garrick Theatre" wa 
 opened in Leman-street, Goodman's Fields. 
 
718 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 HATMARKET THEATRE, the " Little Theatre," was originally built 
 by one Potter, and opened Dec. 29, 1720, by "the French comedians:" 
 it was first called "the New French Theatre." In 1723 it was occu- 
 pied by English actors ; 1726, Italian operas, rope-dancing, and tum- 
 blers, 'by subscription ; in 1727 the Beggar's Opera was produced 
 here; 1731, gladiators and backswordsmen ; 1732, English opera upon 
 the Italian model; 1734-5, Fielding opened the theatre with "the 
 Great Mogul's Company of Comedians," for whom he wrote his Pas- 
 quin, the satire of which upon the Walpole administration gave rise to 
 the Licensing Act (10th of Geo. II. cap. 28). In 1738 a French com- 
 pany re-opened the theatre, but were driven from the stage the first 
 night. In 1741, English operas were played here; 1744, Samuel Foote 
 first appeared here as Othello ; 1747, Foote became manager, and con- 
 tinued so for thirty vears, commencing with his own Entertainments. 
 Jan. 16, 1748-9, the Bottle Conjuror hoax and riot. 1762, the Hay- 
 market was established as a regular summer theatre. 1777, it became a 
 Theatre Royal, when Foote sold his interest to George Colman for a 
 life annuity* of 1600Z., and Foote died in the following October. Col- 
 man died in 1795, and was succeeded by his son, George Colman the 
 younger, licenser of plays. Feb. 3, 1794, sixteen persons were trodden 
 to death, or suffocated, in attempting to gain admission on a royal visit. 
 The " Little Theatre" was taken down in 1820 ; the present theatre 
 was built, at a few feet distant, by Nash, and opened July 14, 1821 : it 
 has a lofty Corinthian portico. In 1853, Mr. B. Webster concluded here 
 a lesseeship of 16 years, and the theatre was let to Mr. Buckstone. 
 
 first Appearances. Henderson, Bannister, Mathews, Elliston, Liston, and 
 Young; Miss Fenton (Duchess of Bolton), Miss Farren (Countess of Derby), 
 Miss Paton (Lady W. Lennox) ; Edmund Kean, in " little business," 1806. Here 
 Macready gave his final performances. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S THEATRE (the), King-street, St. James's,was designed by 
 Beazley, for John Braham, the singer, at a cost of 26.000/. The faade 
 is Roman, of the middle ages; and the interior, by Crace, originally re- 
 sembled the theatre of the Palace of Versailles. The St. James's 
 Theatre was opened in 1835; and next year was produced here an 
 operatic burletta written by Charles Dickens, the music by John Hullah. 
 
 LYCEUM THEATRE (the), "Wellington-street, Strand, was originally 
 built by James Payne, architect, in 1765, as an academy (or lyceum) 
 for a society of artists ; of whom, on the re-establishment of the Royal 
 Academy, Garrick bought the lease of the premises, to prevent their 
 becoming a theatre. They were next purchased by Mr. Lingham, a 
 breeches-maker, in the Strand, and opened about 1790 for musical per- 
 formances ; in 1794 or 1795 Lingham leased the adjoining ground to 
 Dr. Arnold, who built here a theatre, the license for which was sup- 
 pressed, and it was let for music, dancing, and horsemanship, exhibition 
 of paintings, &c. : a foreigner gained a large fortune by exhibiting here 
 the first phantasmagoria seen in England; and here, in 1803-4, Winsor 
 exhibited his experimental gas-lighting. In 1809, the theatre was en- 
 larged by Mr. S. A. Arnold, and opened as the English Opera-house: 
 it was rebuilt, in 1816, by Beazley; was destroyed by fire, Feb. 16, 18:50; 
 and rebuilt by Beazley somewhat further west, the site of the former 
 theatre being'included in the new street then formed from the Strand to 
 Long Acre. The new theatre cost 35,000/.; it has an elegant Co- 
 rinthian portico: it was opened with English opera, July 14, 1834; 
 and was re-decorated in rich Italian taste, for Madame Vestris, in 1847. 
 
 MARIONETTE THEATRE, Agar-street, Strand, was originally the 
 Adelaide Gallery, and was altered for the clever performances of 
 Marionettes, or puppets, in 1852. 
 
THEATRES. 719 
 
 MARYLEBONE THEATRE, Church-street, Paddington, was built and 
 opened in 1842, as " a penny theatre :" it was enlarged in 1854, to hold 
 2000 persons : Shakspeare's plays have been admirably performed here. 
 
 MILTON-STREET THEATRE, see GRUB-STREET, pp. 335-37. 
 
 NEWINGTON BUTTS: here was a theatre built before the Globe at 
 Bankside: it is mentioned in the Diary of Philip Henslowe, which shows 
 that from June 1594 the performances were jointly by the Lord Ad- 
 miral's men and the Lord Chamberlain's men: here were acted Titus 
 Andronicus, Hamlet, and the Taming of a Shrew. 
 
 NURSERY (the), in Golding-lane, was built by a patent of Charles II. 
 as a school for the education of children for the stage : 
 " Near these a Nursery erects its head, 
 Where queens are formed, and future heroes bred, 
 Where unfledged actors learn to laugh and cry, 
 Where infant punks their tender voices try, 
 And little Maximins the gods defy." Dryden's Mac Flecknoe. 
 
 Bayes, in the Rehearsal, speaks of "the service of the Nursery;" and 
 Pepys first went there 24th Feb. 1667-8. The house, with the royal 
 arms and a figure of Charity, in plaster, on the front, existed to our 
 time, and has been erroneously described as the Fortune Theatre. 
 There was a similar Nursery in Hatton-garden, at which Joe Haynes, 
 the dancer, performed. 
 
 OLYMPIC THEATRE (the), Wych-street, was originally erected by 
 Philip Astley, upon the site of old Craven House, and was opened with 
 horsemanship, Sept. 18, 1806 : it was principally built with the timbers 
 of La Ville de Paris, the ship in which William IV. served as midship- 
 man ; these materials were given to Astley, with a chandelier, by 
 George III. The theatre was leased in 1813 to Elliston, who removed 
 thence to Drury-lane ; and subsequently to Madame Vestris, before 
 she became lessee of Covent-garden ; both which changes were ruinous. 
 The Olvmpic Theatre was destroyed by fire, within an hour, March 29, 
 1849 : it was rebuilt the same year, and opened Dec. 26. 
 
 First and last, at the Olympic Theatre have appeared Elliston and Mrs. Ed- 
 win; Oxberry and Power; Keeley and Fitzwilliam ; Charles Kean and Ellen 
 Tree; Madame Vestris, Mrs. Nisbett (Lady Boothby), Mrs. Keeley, and William 
 Farren; Charles Mathews first appeared here; and Miss Foote (Countess of 
 Harrington), Mrs. Orger, and Listen, last played here. In Craven-buildings, 
 adjoining the theatre, have resided "three favourite actresses, from the time of 
 Dryden to our own Mrs. Bracegirdle, Mrs. Pritchard, and Madame Vestris." 
 
 PANTHEON THEATRE, Oxford-street (see p. 582). 
 
 PRINCESS' THEATRE (the), Oxford-street, was originally the Queen's 
 Bazaar (see p. 36), was designed by Nelson, and opened Sept. 30, 1841, 
 with promenade concerts. It cost 47,000?. ; but the unique charac- 
 ter of its Renaissance decoration, by Crace, has been spoiled: origi- 
 nally it consisted entirely of four tiers of boxes. This theatre, under 
 the management of Mr. Charles Kean, has become noted for its dramas 
 from the French ; and its reproduction of Shakspeare's historic plays, 
 with all the " pomp and circumstance" of modern art. 
 
 QUEEN'S THEATRE, Tottenham-street, Tottenham-court-road, was 
 originally Francis Pasquali's Concert-room, enlarged for the Concerts 
 of Ancient Music by Novosielski, who built here a superb box for 
 George III. and Queen Charlotte (Dr. Rimbault, Notes and Queries, 
 No. .10). It subsequently became the Tottenham-street, Regency, 
 Royal, and West London, Theatre. It was the first theatre in London 
 at which French plays were acted after the Peace of 1815. Here 
 Young, the tragedian, first appeared upon the stage, in 1807, at p pri- 
 vate performance. 
 
720 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 RED BULL THEATRE (the), upon the site of Red Bull-yard, St. John- 
 street, Clerkenwell, was originally an inn-yard, but rebuilt about 1633: 
 here the King's Company, under Killigrew, acted until Drury-lane was 
 ready for them. During the Interregnum, " Drolls'' were performed 
 here, and afterwards published by Kirkman, one of the players, with a 
 frontispiece of the interior of the theatre. (See CLERKENWELL, p. 187.) 
 
 Sir William Davenant, to whom Charles I. granted a patent in 1639, continued 
 recreation and music, after the manner of the ancients, at Rutland House, 
 Bridgewater-sqnare, and subsequently at the Cockpit, till the Restoration, when 
 the few players who had not fallen in the wars or died of poverty assembled 
 under Davenant at the Red Bull : the actors' clothes were " very poore, and the 
 actors but common fellows." Pepys, 1661. 
 
 ROYALTY THEATRE, Wells-street, Wellclose-square (named from 
 Goodmans Field Wells, 1735), was built by subscription, and opened 
 in 1787, when John Braham first appeared on the stage, as Cupid, and 
 John Palmer was manager; Lee Lewis, Bates, Holland, and Mrs. 
 Gibbs, were also of the company. It was purchased about 1820 by 
 Mr. Peter Moore, M.P. ; and was burnt down April 11, 1826. 
 
 SADLER'S WELLS, the oldest theatre in London, is on the S.W. side of 
 Islington, and named in part from a mineral spring, which was supersti- 
 tiously dispensed by the monks of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, 
 proba'bly from the time of Henry I. or Stephen. In the reign of 
 Charles II., one Sadler built here a music-house, and in 1683 re-dis- 
 covered in the garden the well of " excellent steel waters," which in 
 1684 was visited and drunk by hundreds of persons every morning. 
 Evelyn, on June 11, 1686, went to " the New Spa Well, near Mid- 
 dleto'n's receptacle of water at the New River." Ned Ward describes 
 the company as "inns of court beaux and lady bumsitters, mingled with 
 the blue-frock order :" the entertainments were rope-dancing, tum- 
 bling, and gluttonous feats. The well, ceasing to attract, was covered 
 over ; and in 1764 the old music-house (engraved in the Mirror, No. 
 971,) was taken down, and the present theatre built by Rosoman. King 
 (of Drury-lane) was long a partner and stage-manager ; and Charles 
 Dibdin and his sons, Thomas and Charles, were proprietors. Gri- 
 maldi, father, son, aad grandson, were famous clowns at this theatre ; 
 and Belzoni was a posture-master here before he travelled to the East. 
 In 1804 the New River water was introduced in a tank under the stage, 
 where also is a mineral well ; but the old well is between the stage- 
 door and the New River. Wine was sold and drunk on the premises 
 until 1807 : under the old regulation, " for an additional sixpence, every 
 spectator was allowed a pint of either port, Lisbon, mountain, or 
 punch." But the more honourable distinction of Sadler's Wells Theatre 
 is its admirable representations of Elizabethan plays, under the man- 
 agement of Mr. Phelps, by whom it has been made " the most popular 
 retreat of the regular drama." 
 
 SALISBURY-COURT THEATRE (see p. 306). 
 
 SANS Souci THEATRE, Strand, was built by Dibdin, the song- 
 writer, in the rear of his music-shop, and opened Feb. 16, 1793. Dibdin 
 planned, painted, and decorated this theatre ; wrote the recitations and 
 songs, composed the music, and sang and accompanied them on an 
 organised pianoforte of his own iavention. He built another Sans Souci 
 theatre in Leicester-place. 
 
 SOHO THEATRE was built for Trances Kelly, in 1840, as a school 
 for acting, in the rear of No, 73 Dean-street. It will hold 800 persons. 
 
 STRAND THEATRE, No. 169 Strand, originally Barker's Panorama, 
 
THEATRES. 721 
 
 was altered in 1831 for Rayner, the low comedian, and Mrs. Waylett, 
 the singer. Here were produced Douglas Jerrold's early plays. 
 
 SURREY THEATRE (the), St. George's-fields, was first built by 
 Charles Hughes and Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, and was opened 
 Nov. 4, 1782, as the Royal Circus, for equestrianism. It was destroyed 
 by fire Aug. 12, 1805, but was rebuilt in 1806 by Cabanel. Among its 
 lessees were Elliston and Thomas Dibdin. Here Buckstone first appeared. 
 
 John Palmer was acting manager in 1790, when he was living within the 
 Rules of the King's Bench ; and Palmer's engagement here led to the abridgment, 
 by Lord Chief- Justice Kenyon, of debtors' privileges in Surrey, by excluding all 
 public-houses and places of amusement from the Rules. 
 
 ** THE THEATRE" was built, in 1576, on the site of the Priory of 
 St. John Baptist, at Holy well, Shoreditch ; and is conjectured by 
 Malone to have been " the first building erected in or near the metro- 
 polis purposely for scenic exhibitions:" it is noticed in John Stock- 
 wood's sermon at Paul's Cross, in 1578, as "the gorgeous play ing- 
 place erected in the fields." It was a wooden building ; and in the 
 Star-Chamber records is proof that, in 1598, "the Theatre" was taken 
 down, and the wood removed to Bankside for rebuilding or enlarging 
 the Globe Theatre. 
 
 VICTORIA THEATRE (the), New Cut, Lambeth, was originally named 
 "the Cobourg," from the first stone having been laid by proxy for 
 Prince Leopold of Saxe-Cobourg, Oct. 15, 1817 : it has for its founda- 
 tion part of the stone of the old Savoy Palace. The theatre was de- 
 signed by Cabanel, a carpenter from Liege, who also constructed the 
 stage of old Drury-Iane Theatre, and invented a roof known by his 
 name. The Cobourg Theatre was first opened May 13, 1818 : for its 
 repertoire, Clarkson Stanfield, now R. A., painted scenery ; and here was 
 constructed a looking-glass curtain, of large plates of glass, enclosed in 
 a gilt frame. The house was leased to Egerton and Abbott in 1833, 
 when the name was changed to " Victoria," and the Princess (her 
 present Majesty) visited the theatre. 
 
 WHITEFRIARS THEATRE (the) was originally the hall of White- 
 friars monastery, outside the garden-wall of Dorset House. From 
 a survey in Mr. Collier's possession, we learn that the theatre was 
 fitted up in 1586 ; it was taken down in 1613. Howes, in his continuation 
 of Stow, describes "the erection of a new fair playhouse near the 
 Whitefriars," 1629 : this was " the Private House in Salisburie-court." 
 
 OPERA HOUSES, ITALIAN. HER MAJESTY'S THEATRE. The first 
 theatre for the performance of Italian operas in England was built by 
 subscription, by Sir John Vanbrugh, at the south-west corner of the 
 Haymarket, and was opened April 9, 1705; but operas were not per- 
 formed here wholly in Italian until 1710, when Almahide was pro- 
 duced, and next year Handel's Rinaldo, in Italian, and by Italian singers. 
 On June 17, 1789, the theatre was burnt down ; and upon the same 
 site, enlarged, April 3, 1790, was laid the first stone of the present 
 Opera House, designed by Novosielski, who introduced the horse-shoe 
 form of auditory, from the Italian theatres. In 1820 the exterior was 
 altered by Nash and Repton in the Roman-Doric style, as we now see 
 it, surrounded with arcade and colonnade : each of the iron columns 
 is a single casting. The Haymarket front bears a basso-relievo, by 
 Bubb, of lithargolite, or artificial stone, illustrating the progress of 
 Music ; Apollo and the Muses occupying the centre. The interior, at 
 the time of its erection, was larger than that of La Scala at Milan, or 
 the Theatre Italien at Paris. The audience and stage ground are held 
 on two distinct leases. The whole theatre is lined with thin wood in 
 very long pieces, as the best conductor of sound. It was entirely re- 
 
 A A A 
 
722 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 decorated in the Raphaelesque and Roman style in 1846. There are 
 177 boxes, the freehold of some of which has been sold for 7000 and 8000 
 guineas; the season-rent is 300 guineas ; a small box, fourth tier, has been 
 let for one night at 12 guineas. When Mr. Lumley purchased the theatre 
 in 1844, he realised 90,000/. by selling boxes in perpetuity. The house 
 will accommodate about 3000 persons. The drop-scene was painted by 
 Stanfield, R.A. The decorations, after ancient masters, are extremely 
 beautiful. Here is a model of the theatre, 10 feet high. Part of the 
 scenery is deposited at " the Barn," James-street, Haymarket. 
 
 The Italian Opera House in the Haymarket has ever been a costly speculation. 
 In 1720 George I. headed a subscription of 50.000/. for its support. Ebers lost 
 44,C80J (see his Seven Years of the King's Theatre, 1829). For two seasons he 
 paid 15,000?. rent per annum. One season's expenses : Opera, 86361. ; ballet. 
 10.678/. ; orchestra, 3261J. ; scene-painting and wardrobes (50,000 dresses), 53721. ; 
 lighting, 128U. ; salaries, 25781.; servants, 4031.; military guard at the doors, 
 1501.; fittings of the king's box, in 1821, 300J.; nightly expenses 'from 7001. to 
 10CO/. The largest receipts were in the seasons when Jenny Lind sang. Her 
 Majesty's is stated to be the only theatre which has no lease. It claims the ex- 
 clusive right to produce foreign operas, from a deed made in 1792, covenanting 
 that " the patents of Drury Lane and Covent Garden shall never be exercised 
 for the purpose of Italian operas." See an able account of Her Majesty's The- 
 atre, by Shirley Brooks, Morning Chronicle, March 20, 1851. 
 
 ROYAL ITALIAN OPERA (the), Covent Garden Theatre, was designed 
 by Albano, and executed at a cost of 40,OOOZ. The greatest width of 
 the internal area is 62 feet, two feet wider than Her Majesty's Theatre : 
 the greatest height is 54 feet. The decorations are gold and white; 
 and the ceiling is enriched with allegorical figures. There are six tiers 
 of boxes (210), in part divided by caryatides. The house holds upwards 
 of 3000 persons. It was opened April 6, 1847, with Semiramide (Grisi), 
 .and Costa as musical director. The originator of this second Italian 
 Opera House was Mr. C. L. Gruneisen, with Mr. T. F. Beale as director. 
 In the seasons of 1848 and 1849 were expended 60,000?.; and the 
 : salaries of Alboni, Viardot, Grisi, and Mario, were between 4000Z. and 
 ,50001. each. Here Madame Grisi took her farewell, Aug. 7, 1854. 
 
 The Opera Stage at night is an extraordinary scene. Place your back to the 
 dark curtain, waving gently in the draught. Look up, and in the roof you dis- 
 tinguish a misty glare of gas, in which you can discover monstrous beams, ex- 
 tending like the lowest yards of a first-rate line-of-battle ship, and somewhat as 
 'loosely, dangling ropes, tackles with pulleys, &c. 'Blocks are creaking ; you hear 
 huge iron windlasses clicking rapidly ; and you descry dingy phantoms of scenes, 
 techpfcally denominated "cloth," majestically rising, with a slow motion, like 
 .black clouds. These are ascending, one behind the other, in a lurid light; and 
 you see on each side, at some distance, a tall ladder-looking series of deal frames 
 in perspective, black with smoke and grimy with dust, leather hose, gas-pipes, 
 bright iighta, and brass apparatus; series of brilliant jets, starring in extended 
 line, blue .clouds and amber-water, columns with wreaths, Moresques, and flat- 
 snosed statues; traps and stray rocks are interjectionary in a confused assemblage 
 of carpenjters in paper caps and corduroy, dusky gasmen ; gentlemen with their 
 hats in their 'hands, and in black dress coats and white neckerchiefs ; pot-boys; 
 fairies with a silver star on their foreheads ; burly, gods, with broad faces red with. 
 ochre, roseate foreheads, raven ringlets, and gimlet eyes ; kings displaying superb 
 black whisk ere, -with crowns on their heads, and crimson draperies; one or two 
 dressers in sauslin caps, with perhaps a cracked teacup to be seen in the hand; 
 #nd persecuted princesses in spangled gauze. Cocks's Musical Almanack, 1851. 
 
 THREADNEEDLE-STREET, 
 
 Or Three- Needle-street, (Stow,) originally extended from Bishopsgate- 
 street to Stocks Market, but now terminates at the Bank of England. 
 The name is from three needles, the charge cm the shield of the Needle- 
 makers* Company's arms ; but Pennant traces the final cause to the 
 Hall of the Merchant-Taylors, Taylors, and Linen-armourers in this 
 
TOTTENHAM-COURT ROAD. 
 
 723 
 
 street. Hatton refers it to " such a sign." (See MERCHANT-TAILORS' 
 HALL, SOUTH-SEA HOUSE, and HALL OF COMMERCE.) Upon part of 
 the site of the latter lived Sir William Sidney, one of the heroes of 
 Flodden Field; and his son, Sir Henry Sidney, in whose arms died 
 Edward VI. Sir Henry then retired to Penshurst, where was born, 
 in 1554, his son, the famed Sir Philip Sidney. Upon the site of the 
 present chief entrance to the Bank of England, in Threadneedle Street, 
 stood the Crown Tavern, " behind the 'Change :" it was much fre- 
 quented by Fellows of the Royal Society, when they met at Gresham 
 College, hard by. The Crown was burnt in the Great Fire, but was 
 rebuilt ; and a century since, at this tavern, " it was not unusual to 
 draw a butt of mountain, containing 120 gallons, in gills, in a morning.'* 
 (Sir John Haickins.) At No. 20 lived Alderman Moon, the eminent 
 print-publisher : he was Lord-Mayor in 1854-5, and a worthy successor- 
 of Alderman Boydell. 
 
 TOKENS. 
 
 In the reign of Elizabeth (1558), the great want of halfpence and 
 farthings led to private Tokens, or farthings, of lead, tin, latten,. and 
 leather, being struck for alehouse-keepers, chandlers, grocers, vintners,, 
 and other traders ; the figure and devices being emblematical of the 1 
 various trades, victuallers especially adopting their signs. They were 
 made without any form or fashion ; and some of them (as the leaden 
 tokens of Elizabeth's reign) are now of extreme rarity. Every one 
 issuing this useful specie was compelled to take it again when offered ; 
 and this practice continued until 1672, when Charles II. struck halfpence 
 and farthings. Within the present century, however, many tokens ob- 
 tained general circulation in London, by which means tradesmen adver- 
 tised their business: such tokens also recorded great events, portraits 
 of public men, views of places and of entertainments, which might 
 .otherwise have been lost. They mostly disappeared on Watt's new 
 copper coinage of George III. The great national collection of tokens 
 in the British Museum is the finest we possess. Mr. Roach Smith's 
 Museum of London Antiquities, 5 Liverpool-street, also contains about 
 500 medieval leaden tokens, and many tradesmen's tokens in brass, 
 from about 1648 to 1674. (See Catalogue, 1854.) The Beaufoy Cabinet, 
 presented to the Corporation Library, consists exclusively of London 
 traders', tavern, and coffee-house tokens current in the 17th century, 
 1174 in number : they are well described and annotated in a Catalogue 
 by Jacob Henry Burn, printed for the Corporation, 1853. See also the 
 work on Tradesmen's Tokens current in London, 1648 to 1672, by 
 J. Y. Akerman, F.S.A., 4to, 1849. 
 
 Token-house Yard, on the north side of Lothbury, is named from 
 the Mint-house, or office for the issue and change of these farthings or 
 tokens : it was built in the reign of Charles I., and occupied the site of the 
 house and garden of the Earl of Arundel ; and from its proximity to the 
 brass- founders of Lothbury, they are thought to have minted the Tokens. 
 
 TOTTENHAM-COURT ROAD, 
 
 From Oxford-street to the Hampstead-road, was the old way from the 
 village of St. Giles's to the prebendal manor of Totham, Toten, or 
 Totten Hall (named in Domesday), and temp, Henry III. the mansion of 
 William de Totenhall. It stood at the north-west extremity of the pre- 
 sent road, and is mentioned as a house of entertainment in the parish- 
 books of St. Giles's, in 1645, when Mrs. Stacye's maid and two others 
 were fined "for drinking at Tottenhall Court, on the Sabbath daie, 
 xijd. a-piece." It was then altered to the Adam-and-Eve pubic-house, 
 
724 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 which, with the King's Head and Tottenham Court turnpike, is shown 
 in Hogarth's " March to Finchley," at the Foundling Hospital. At the 
 Adam and Eve were a music-room and tea-gardens ; here Lunardi de- 
 scended in his balloon, May 16th, 1785. A portion of the old court- 
 house remained to our time; the gardens were built upon between 
 1806 and 1810, and the public-house has been rebuilt. J. T. Smith, in 
 his Book for a Rainy Day, remembers, in 1773, Cappers' Farm, behind 
 the north-west end of Russell- street, noted for its garden-houses in 
 Strype's time. From Cappers' Farm were straggling houses, but Tot- 
 tenham-Court-road was then " unbuilt upon." The first house (No. 1) 
 in Oxford-street bore on its front, cut in stone, " Oxford-street, 1725." 
 " The Blue Posts," corner of Han way -street, was once kept by Sturges, 
 the famous draught-player, author of a Treatise on Draughts. The site 
 of Gresse-street (named from Gresse, the painter), was then gardens> 
 recommended by physicians for the salubrity of the air. Stephen-street 
 was then built : George Morland, the painter, lived here, at No. 14, in 
 1780. Whitefield's chapel was built, in 1754 (see page 177), upon the 
 site of " the Little Sea" pond ; and a turnstile opened into Crab-tree 
 Fields, which then extended to the Adam and Ere. 
 
 " Totten-Court, a mansion in the fields," is a scene in Ben Jonson's Tale of a 
 Tub: and the scene of Thomas Nabs's Tottenham-Cottrt, a pleasant comedy 
 (1639), is laid in " Marrowbone Park." 
 
 TOWER OF LONDON (THE), 
 
 " The citadel to defend or command the City" (Stow), stands on the 
 north bank of the Thames, about a mile below London Bridge, and in 
 the oldest part of the metropolis ; " between the south-east end of the 
 City Wall and the river, though the west part is supposed within the 
 City,* but with some uncertainty ; and in what county the whole stands 
 is not easy discovered." (Hatton, 1708.) It comprises within the walls 
 an area of 12 acres 5 roods. Tradition has assigned its origin to Julius 
 Caesar, and our early poets have adopted this antiquity : 
 
 " Prince Edward. I do not like the Tower, of any place. 
 Did Julius Caesar build that place, my lord ? 
 
 Buckingham. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, 
 Which since succeeding ages have re-edified. 
 
 Prince Edward. Is it upon record, or else reported 
 Successively from age to age, he built it? 
 
 Buckingham. Upon record, my gracious lord." 
 
 Shakspeare's Richard III. act iii. sc. I. 
 
 This, however, is unsupported by records ; but that the Romans had a 
 fortress here in a subsequent age is probable, from the discovery of 
 Roman remains upon the site (see page 651). 
 
 The oldest portion of the present fortress is the Keep, or White 
 Tower, so named from its having been originally whitewashed, as ap- 
 pears from a Latin document of the year 1241. This tower was built 
 about 1078, for William the Conqueror, by Gundulph, bishop of Roches- 
 ter, who also erected Rochester Castle ; and the two fortresses have 
 points of resemblance. William Rufus greatly added to the Tower ; 
 Henry I. strengthened the fortress; and Stephen, in 1140, kept his 
 court here, with all the rude splendour of the period. 
 
 Fitzstephen describes it as "the Tower Palatine, very large and very strong, 
 
 * " It -was proved in the case of Sir Thomas Overbury, upon a question as to 
 whether his murder was committed within the boundaries of the City or in the 
 county of Middlesex, that the City Wall traversed the buildings contained within 
 the Tower; and his apartment being on the west of it, the criminals came ac- 
 cordingly under the jurisdiction of the City." Archer's, Vestiges, part iii. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. f 25 
 
 whose court and walls rise up from a deep foundation. The mortar is tempered 
 with the blood of beasts. On the west are two castles, well fenced." 
 
 About 1190, the Regent Bishop Longchamp surrounded the fortress 
 with an embattled stone wall and "a broade and deepe ditch:" for 
 breaking down part of the City wall he was deposed, and besieged in 
 the Tower, but surrendered after one night. King John held his court 
 here. Henry III. strengthened the White Tower, and founded the Lion 
 Tower and other western bulwarks; and in this reign the palace- 
 fortress was alternately held by the king and the insurgent barons. 
 Edward I. enlarged the moat, and on the west made the last additions 
 of military importance prior to the invention of cannon. Edward II. 
 retired here against his subjects ; and here was born his eldest daughter, 
 Joan of the Tower. Edward III. imprisoned here many illustrious 
 persons, including David king of Scotland, and John king of France 
 with Philip his son. During the insurrection of Wat Tyler, King 
 Richard II. took refuge here, with his court and nobles, 600 persons : 
 Richard was deposed whilst imprisoned here, in 1399. Edward IV. 
 kept a magnificent court here. In 1460 Lord Scales was besieged here 
 by the Yorkists, and was taken and slain in endeavouring to escape by 
 water. Henry VI., twice imprisoned in the fortress, died here in 1471 ; 
 but the tradition that George Duke of Clarence was drowned here in 
 1478, in a butt of malmsey-wine, is of little worth. The beheading of 
 Lord Hastings, in 1483, by order of the Protector Gloucester (on a log 
 of timber in front of the Chapel) ; the seizure of the crown by Richard ; 
 and the supposed murder of his nephews, Edward V. and the Duke of 
 York, are the next events in the annals of the fortress. Henry VII. 
 frequently resided in the Tower, where also his queen sought refuge 
 from "the society of her sullen and cold-hearted husband: the king 
 held a splendid tournament here in 1501 ; his queen died here in 1503. 
 Henry VIII. often held his court in this fortress : here, in great pomp, 
 Henry received all his wives previous to their espousals; here were 
 beheaded his queens Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard. About this 
 time (1548) occurred a great fire in the Tower : 
 
 " ij A (Edw. VI.) Item the xxij day of November was in the nyehte a grete 
 fyer in the tower of London, and a gret pesse burnyd, by menes of a Frencheman 
 that sette a barrelle of gonnepoder a fyere, and soo was burnyd hymselfe, and 
 no more persons, but moch hurte besyde." Chron. Grey Friars of London. 
 
 Edward VI. kept his court in the Tower prior to his coronation : here 
 his uncle, the Protector Somerset, was twice imprisoned before his de- 
 capitation on Tower Hill, in 1552. Lady Jane Grey entered the fortress 
 as queen of England, but in three weeks became here a captive with her 
 youthful husband : both were beheaded. Queen Mary, at her court in the 
 Tower, first showed her Romish resolves : her sister, the Princess Eliza- 
 beth, was imprisoned here on suspicion of favouring Sir Thomas Wyatt's 
 design ; she was compelled to enter at the Traitor's Gate, when she 
 exclaimed, " Here landeth as true a subject, being a prisoner, as ever 
 landed at these stairs ; and before Thee, O God, I speak it." Queen 
 Elizabeth did not keep her court in the Tower, but at no period was 
 the state prison more " constantly thronged with delinquents." James I. 
 resided here, and delighted in combats of the wild beasts kept here. In 
 Charles I's. reign many leading partisans were imprisoned here ; and 
 under the government of Oliver Cromwell, and in the reigns of Charles 
 II. and James II., the Tower was filled with prisoners, the victims of 
 state policy, intrigue, tyranny, or crime. Almost from the Conquest, 
 our sovereigns, at their coronation, went in great state and procession 
 from the Tower, through the City, to Westminster ; the last observance 
 being at the coronation of Charles II. All the domestic apartments of 
 
726 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 A. White Tower. B. Wardrobe Tower. C. St. John's Chapel, in the White Tower. D. Cold 
 Harbour. E. Bloody Tower. F. St. Thomas's Tower. G. Traitor's Gate. H. Well Tower. 
 I. Cradle Tower. K. Hall Tower. L. Lantern Tower. M. Salt Tower. N. Tower above 
 the Iron Gate. 0. Tower leading to the Iron Gate. P. Broad Arrow Tower. Q. Constable 
 Tower. R. Martin Tower. S. Brick Tower. T. Bowyer's Tower. U. Flint Tower. V. Bell 
 Tower. W. Devili Tower. X. Beauchamp Tower. Y. By ward Tower. Z. Middle Tower. 
 
 1. Posts of the Scaffold. 2. Cage. 3. Barkin Church. 4. The Bulwark Gate. 5. Lyon 
 Tower. 6. Lyons Gate. 7- St. Peter's Church. 8. Postern Gate. 9- The Stone Kitchen. 10. 
 Lieutenant's Lodgings. 11. Jewel House. 12. Hall decayed. 13. Queen's Gallery. 14. Pri- 
 Tate Gardens. 15. Iron Gate. 16. Thames-street. 17. Queen's Lodgings. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 727 
 
 the ancient palace within the Tower were taken down during the reigns 
 of James II. and William and Mary. In 1792 the garrison was increased : 
 " Several hundred men were employed in repairing the fortifications, opening 
 the embrasures, and mounting cannon ; and on the western side of the fortress a 
 strong barrier was formed with old casks filled with earth and rubble ; the gates 
 were closed at an early hour, and no one but the military allowed to go on the 
 ramparts." Bayley. 
 
 The Tower Palace occupied the south-eastern portion of the inner 
 ward, as shown in the opposite plan of the fortress in the reign 
 of Elizabeth, within a century from which period much of its ancient 
 character was obliterated by small buildings between its towers and 
 courts. Northward of the White Tower was built, temp. James II. and 
 William III., the Grand Storehouse for the Royal Train of Artillery, 
 and the Small Armoury for 150,000 stand of arms : this building, 345 feet 
 in length, was destroyed by fire October 30, 1841 ;* since which the 
 Tower has been "remodelled," many small dwelling-houses have been 
 cleared away, and several towers and defences have been rebuilt. The 
 houses of Petty Wales and the outworks have been removed, with the 
 Menagerie buildings at the entrance from the west. 
 
 The Lion Tower was built by Henry III., who commenced assem- 
 bling here a menagerie with three leopards sent to him by the Emperor 
 Frederic II., "in token of his regal shield of arms, wherein those 
 leopards were pictured." Here, in 1255, the Sheriffs built a house 
 " for the King's elephant," brought from France, and the first seen in 
 England. Our early sovereigns had a maws in the Tower as well 
 as a menagerie : 
 
 " Merry Margaret, as Midsomer flowre, 
 Gentyll as faucon and hawke of the Towre." Skelton. 
 
 To the Lion Tower was built as emicircular enclosure, where lions and 
 bears were baited with dogs, in which James 1. and his court much de- 
 lighted. A lion was named after the reigning king; and it was popu- 
 larly believed that " when the king dies, the lion of that name dies after 
 him'" (see also Addison's Freeholder, No. 47). " Washing the Lions on 
 the first of April" was another popular hoax. The menagerie greatly 
 declined until 1822, when it revived under the management of Mr. 
 Cops ; the last of the animals was, however, transferred to the Zoolo- 
 gical Society's Gardens, in the Regent's Park, in 1834 : the Refresh- 
 ment-room and Ticket-office occupy part of the site of the Lion Tower ; 
 but the buildings were not entirely removed until 1853. The animals 
 are described in a work entitled The Tower Menagerie, with woodcut 
 portraits cleverly drawn by William Harvey. 
 
 The Tower Moat or Ditch was drained in 1843, filled up, and turfed, 
 for the exercise of the garrison : occasionally sheep feed here. The 
 banks are clothed with thriving evergreens ; and on the north-east is a 
 pleasant shrubbery-garden.f 
 
 " In draining the moat were found several stone shot, which had probably 
 been projected against the fortress during the siege of 1460, when Lord Scales 
 held the Tower for the king, and the Yorkists cannonaded him from a battery on 
 the Southwark side of the river." Hewitt. (See page 725.) 
 
 The land entrance to the fortress is by the Middle Tower, and a 
 
 * There were 94,500 stands of arms, of which 4000 were saved : loss by the fire, 
 about 250,0002. Among the objects destroyed and lost were a cannon of wood, 
 and the state swords of Justice and Mercy carried before the Pretender when he 
 was proclaimed in Scotland in 1715. 
 
 t In 1830 the Tower Ditch was filled with water, and cleansed, by order of 
 the Duke of Wellington, as Constable; which measure has been gravely de- 
 scribed as putting the fortress into a state of security against the Reform Bill 
 agitation ! 
 
728 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 stone bridge, anciently a drawbridge, crossing the Moat, at the south- 
 west angle, to the Byword Tower : these towers were strongly forti- 
 fied, and provided each with a double portcullis. On the right, a small 
 drawbridge crosses the Moat, and leads to the wharf fronting the 
 Thames. Here is St. Thomas's Tower, and beneath it Traitor's Gate, 
 with a cut which connected the ditch with the river: by this entrance 
 state prisoners were formerly brought into the Tower, and through it 
 
 " Went Sidney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More." Rogers. 
 
 "When it was found necessary, from any cause, to carry a prisoner through the 
 streets, the Sheriffs received him from the king's lieutenants at the entrance to the 
 City, gave a receipt for him, and took another on delivering him up at the gates of 
 the Tower. The receipt of the Governor for the body of the Duke of Monmouth 
 his living body is still extant." Dixon's Prisons. 
 
 Eastward is the basement-story of the Cradle Tower, in good con- 
 dition ; the Well Tower is used as a warder's residence ; and at the south- 
 eastern angle is the Iron-gate Tower, used as a powder-magazine. 
 
 In the extreme angle, overhanging the ditch, is the Devilin Tower, 
 which crowns "the Devil's Battery ;" here is stored up gunpowder. 
 The front wall is embattled, and mounted with cannon; and on the 
 wharf were formerly fired the " Tower Guns." Hatton describes them, 
 in 1708, as " 62 guns, lying in a range, fast in the ground, always ready 
 to be discharged on any occasion of victories, coronations, festivals, 
 days of thanksgiving, triumphs, &c." The guns are now fired from 
 a new " Saluting Battery," facing Tower-hill. 
 
 Between the outer and inner wards extends a narrow street, in part 
 formerly occupied by the buildings of the Mint, removed to Tower Hill 
 in 1810. * The towers of the inner ward are commencing from the south- 
 east, the Sell Tower, containing the alarm-bell of the garrison ; it is 
 said to have been the prison-lodging of Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, 
 and subsequently of the Princess Elizabeth : "at this point, in former 
 times, were other gates, to prevent an enemy getting possession of the 
 lines, and to guard the approaches to the inner ballium." Hewitt. 
 
 Between the Sell Tower and the Beauchamp Tower was formerly 
 a passage by the leads, used as a promenade for prisoners, of whom the 
 walls bear memorials ; among them is " Eespice jfinem, W. Z>." 
 
 Next, northward, is the Beauchamp or Cobham Tower, a curious 
 specimen of the military architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries. 
 
 This tower is named from Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, being confined 
 here in 1397, and the Cobhams in 1554, It was restored by Anthony Salvin in 
 1854; when lithographed copies of the Inscriptions, Memorials, and Devices cut 
 on the walls of the several rooms and cells, were published by W. R. Dick. 
 
 Upon the wall is a rebus of Dr. Abel, chaplain to Catherine Queen 
 of Aragon ; a bell inscribed T A, and Thomas above. Couplets, maxims, 
 allegories, and spiritual truths are sometimes added : of these we can 
 only select a few : 
 
 " Thomas Willyngar, goldsmithe. My hart is yours tel dethe." By the side is 
 a figure of a bleeding " hart," and another of " dethe ;" and " T. W." and " P. A." 
 " Thomas Rose, 
 Within this Tower strong 
 Kept close 
 By those to whom he did no wrong. May 8th, 1666." 
 
 The figure of man, praying, underneath "Ro. Bainbridge" (1587-8). 
 
 " Thomas Bawdewin, 1585, Jvly. As vertve maketh life, so sin cawseth death." 
 
 " Walter Paslew, dated 1569 & 1570. My hope is in Christ." Devices of the 
 
 Peverels; and crucifix and bleeding Heart. " J. C. 1538." " Learne to feare 
 
 God." " Reprens . le . sage, et . il . te . armera. Take wisdom, and he shall 
 
 arm you." 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 729 
 
 Over the fireplace is inscribed : 
 
 " Quanto plus afflictionis pro Christo in hoc sseculo, 
 
 Tanto plus gloriae cum Christo in future. 
 
 Arundell, June 22, 1587." 
 " Gloria et honore eum coronasti Domine : 
 
 In memoria seterna erit Justus. Atuch " 
 
 One of the most elaborate devices is that of John Dvdle, Earl of 
 Warwick, tried and condemned in .1553 for endeavouring to deprive Mary 
 of the crown ; but being reprieved, he died in his prison-room, where 
 he had wrought upon the wall his family's cognizance, the lion, and 
 bear, and ragged staff, underneath which is his name ; the whole sur- 
 rounded by oak-sprigs, roses, geraniums, and honeysuckles, emblematic 
 of the Christian names of his four brothers, as appears from this un- 
 finished inscription : 
 
 " Yow that these beasts do wel behold and se, 
 May deme with ease wherefore here made they be 
 Withe borders eke wherein (there may be found) 
 4 brothers' names, who list to serche the grovnd." 
 
 The names of the brothers were Ambrose, Robert, Guildford, and 
 Henry : thus, A, acorn ; R, rose ; G, geranium ; and H, honeysuckle : 
 others think the rose indicates Ambrose, and the oak Robert (robur). 
 In another part is carved an oak-tree bearing acorns, signed R.D. ; the 
 work of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 
 
 " I h s 1571, die 10 Aprilis. Wise men ought circumspectly to see what they 
 do, to examine before they speake, to prove before they take in hand, to beware 
 whose company they use, and above all things, to whom they truste. Charles 
 Bailly." Another of Bailly's apophthegms is: "The most vnhapy man in the 
 world is he that is not pacient in adversities ; for men are not killed with the ad- 
 versities they have, but with y e impacience which they svffer." 
 
 " O.Lord.whic. art .of.heavn. King . Graunt . gras . and . Ivfe . everlastig . 
 to . Miagh . thy . servant . in . prison . alon . with * * * * Tomas Miagh." Again : 
 " Thomas Miagh, whiche lieth here alon, 
 That fayne wovld from hens be gon, 
 By tortyre straunge mi troth was 
 tryed, yet of my libertie denied. 1581, Thomas Myagh." 
 
 (A prisoner for treason, tortured with Skeffington's irons and the rack.) 
 
 " Hit is the poynt of a wyse man to try and then trvste, for hapy is he whome 
 fyndeth one that is ivst. T. C." Again: " T. C. I leve in hope and I gave 
 credit to mi frinde in time did stande me moste in hande, so wovlde I never do 
 againe, excepte I hade him sver in bande, and to al men wiche I so vnles, ye 
 svssteine the leke lose as I do. Vnhappie is that mane whose actes doth procvre 
 the miseri of this hovs in prison to indvre. 1576, Thomas Clarke." 
 
 In the State Prison Room occurs twice the name of " IANE" (Lady 
 Jane Grey), probably inscribed by one of the Dudleys, who were all 
 imprisoned here in 1553, and one of whom, Guildford, was the lady's 
 husband : this is the only memorial preserved of Lady Jane in the Tower. 
 
 Wallace, the Scottish hero, is erroneously named among the pri- 
 soners here ; for Wallace was not confined in any part of the Tower. 
 
 The memorial of Thomas Salmon, 1622, now let into the wall of the 
 middle room, was formerly in the upper prison-lodging : 
 
 A shield surrounded by a circle; above the circle the name "T. Salmon;" a 
 crest formed of three salmons, and the date 1622; underneath the circle the 
 motto Nee temere, nee timore " Neither rashly nor with fear." Also a star con- 
 taining the abbreviation of Christ, in Greek, surrounded by the sentence, Sic vive 
 vt vivas " So live that thou mayest live." In the opposite corner are the words, 
 Et morire ne morieris " And die that thou mayest die not." Surrounding a re- 
 presentation of Death's head, above the device, is the enumeration of Salmon's 
 confinement : " Close prisoner 8 moneths, 32 wekes, 224 dayes, 5376 houres." 
 
730 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 On the ground-floor is: 
 
 " The man whom this house can not mend, 
 Hath evill becom, and worse will end." 
 
 " Round this (Beauchamp) chamber a secret passage has recently been dis- 
 covered in the masonry, in which spies were, no doubt, set to listen, and report 
 the conversation or soliloquies of prisoners, when they, poor souls, believed them- 
 selves alone. The men who live in the Tower have christened this passage the 
 Whispering Gallery." Dixon's Prisons, 1850, p. 70. 
 
 Raleigh was thrice imprisoned in the Tower; in 1592 (eight weeks), 
 for winning the heart of Elizabeth Throgmorton, one of Elizabeth's 
 maids of honour ; " not only a moral sin, but in those days a heinous 
 political offence." In 1604 he was again committed to the Tower, and 
 in the frenzy of despair attempted to stab himself to the heart; he 
 remained here a captive nearly thirteen years, part of the time with 
 Lady Raleigh: here, 1605, was born Carew, their second son. Sir 
 Walter's prison-lodging is thought to have been the second and third 
 stories of the Beauchamp Tower; here he devoted much time to chemis- 
 trv and pharmaceutical preparations. "He has converted," says Sir 
 William Wade, Lieutenant of the Tower, " a little hen-house in the 
 garden into a still-house, and here he doth spend his time all the day in 
 distillations ; ... he doth show himself upon the wall in his garden to 
 the view of the people:" here Raleigh prepared his "rare cordial,"* 
 wrote his political discourses, and commenced his famous History of 
 the World. He was at length liberated, but again committed to the 
 Tower, about two months before his execution at Westminster. 
 
 North of the Beauchamp Tower is the Devereux Tower, which has 
 been rebuilt under the direction of the Ordnance. The original tower, 
 with walls 11 feet thick, was the prison-lodging of Robert Devereux, Earl 
 of Essex ; in the lower chambers were passages leading to the adjoining 
 CHAPEL OF ST. PETER, described at pp. 155, 156. 
 
 Eastward are the Flint, Bowyer, and Brick Towers, which have also 
 been rebuilt by the Ordnance. In the Bowyer Tower resided the Mas- 
 ter and Provider of the King's Bows; and in a work-room over this 
 tower originated the fire which destroyed the Grand Storehouse in 
 1841 : the basement, strongly groined and vaulted, has been restored. 
 Beneath the floor is a still more dreary vault, with a trap-door opening 
 upon a flight of steps. The Brick Tower, the reputed prison-house of 
 Lady Jane Grey, had its modernised superstructure destroyed in the fire 
 of 1841; but the original basement and a dungeon beneath remained. 
 
 The Martin Tower, at the north-east angle, was formerly a prison- 
 lodging, and next the Jewel Tower. Anne Boleyn was imprisoned here : 
 on the walls is a coac-of-arms and " Boullen :" she slept in the little 
 upper room. Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, and Lord Southampton 
 (Shakspeare's friend), were also prisoners in the Martin Tower ; and 
 here were confined, by James II., Archbishop Sancroft and the six 
 bishops. Here resides the Keeper of the Regalia. Thence, southward, 
 is the Constable Tower, rebuilt by the Ordnance. Next is the Broad 
 Arrow Tower, in its original condition : Lady Jane Grey was a pri- 
 soner here : the Latin couplet which Fox states Jane scratched with 
 a pin upon the walls of her chamber, can nowhere be found. The 
 Salt(petre) Tower is called " Julius Caesar Tower" in a survey temp. 
 Henry VIII., and is supposed to be actually of the reign of William 
 Rufus. It is circular, and has a vaulted dungeon : in the tirst-storj 
 
 * Raleigh's " Rare Cordial," with other ingredients introduced by Sir Keneln 
 Digby and Sir A. Frazer, is the Confectio aromatica of the present London Phar 
 macopaeia. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 731 
 
 chamber, among the devices and inscriptions cut in the wall, is a sphere 
 with the signs of the zodiac, and 
 
 " Hew : Draper : of : Bristow : made : thys : spheer : the : 30 : daye : of : Maye : 
 anno 1561." 
 
 Draper was a wealthy tavern-keeper at Bristow, and was committed 
 here " as suspect of a conjuror or sorcerer," practising against " Sir 
 "William St. Lowe and my ladie ;" but he affirmed that " longe since he 
 BOB misliked his science, that he burned all his books." A view of the 
 Salt Tower, taken in 1846, is etched in Archer's Vestiges, part iii. 
 . Next the Salt Tower, westward, was the Lantern Tower, removed 
 for the Ordnance Office, greatly heightened in 1854. Further west is 
 the Record Tower, also called Wakefield, from the imprisonment of the 
 Yorkists here after the battle of Wakefield, 1460 : this was also anciently 
 the Hall Tower, from its proximity to the great hall of the palace : 
 the basement is Norman, probably of the reign of William Rufus ; the 
 walls are 13 feet thick. The upper chamber has been a Record-room 
 since the reign of Henry VIII. : here are the cartee antiques and chancery 
 rolls, chronologically ranged in presses. Opposite the chamber in which 
 Henry VI. is supposed to have been murdered, is the Record-keeper's 
 room, where hang some of the Keepers' portraits : William Lambarde, 
 the topographer ; the learned Selden ; the Puritan, William Prynne ; 
 and William Petyt, Samuel Lysons, and Henry Petrie, were distinguished 
 Record-keepers. In the Octagon, " Edward the Confessor's Room," 
 the last person confined was Ings, the Cato-street conspirator. 
 
 Adjoining the Record Tower, westward, is the Bloody Tower : here, 
 in a dark windowless room, in which one of the portcullises was worked, 
 George Duke of Clarence is said to have been drowned in malmsey ; 
 in the adjoining chamber, the two princes are said to have been " smo- 
 thered;" whence the name of Bloody Torver. This has been much 
 disputed ; but in a tract temp. James 1. we read that the above " tur- 
 ret our elders termed the Bloody Tower; for the bloodshed, as they 
 say, of those infant princes of Edward IV., whom Richard III., of 
 cursed memory (I shudder to mention it), savagely killed, two together 
 at one time." In the latter chamber was imprisoned Colonel Hutchin- 
 son, whose wife, daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 where she was born, relates the above traditions. This portion was 
 formerly called the Garden Tower ; it was built temp. Edward III., 
 and is the only ancient place of security, as a state prison, in the Tower : 
 it is entered through a small door in the inner ballium ; it consists of a 
 day-room and a bed-room, and the leads on which the prisoner was 
 sometimes allowed to breathe the air. The last person who occupied 
 these apartments was Arthur Thistlewood, the Cato-street conspirator. 
 Westward are the Lieutenant's Lodgings (the Lieutenant's residence), 
 chiefly timber-built, temp. Henry VIII. ; in 1610 was added a cham- 
 ber having a prospect to all the three gates of the Tower, and enabling 
 the lieutenant to call and look to the warders. In the " Council Cham- 
 ber" the Commissioners examined Guy Fawkes and his accomplices, as 
 commemorated in a Latin and Hebrew inscription upon a parti-co- 
 loured marble monument; and elsewhere in the building there was 
 discovered, about 1845, " an inscription carved on an old mantelpiece 
 relating to the Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James I., 'com- 
 mytede prysner to thys Logynge for the Marige of her Sonne my Lord 
 Henry Darnle and the Queen of Scotlande.*" (Hewitt's Tower, &c.) 
 Here a bust of James I. was set up, in 1608, by Sir William Wade, then 
 Lieutenant ; the walls are painted with representations of men inflict- 
 ing and suffering torture ; and the room is reputed to be haunted ! The 
 
732 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 last person confined in the lodgings here was Sir Francis Burdett, 
 committed April 6, 1810, for writing in Cobbett's Weekly Register. 
 
 " Besides the ' prison-lodgings,' there were other still more terrible cham- 
 bers in the Tower; chambers especially constructed with a view to the torture of 
 their inmates. One of these was called ' Little Ease;' a cell so small in its dimen- 
 sions, that it was impossible for the prisoner to stand erect or to lie down except 
 in a cramped position (Holinshed, vol. iii. p. 825). Another was named 'The 
 Pit.' Others are said to have been full of vermin, especially rats, which at high 
 water were driven up in shoals from the Thames. The Devil's Tower probably 
 took its name from some contrivance of this kind." Hewitt. 
 
 The Place of Execution within the Tower on the Green was re-. ! 
 served for putting to death privately ; and the precise spot, nearly op- 
 posite the door of St. Peter's Chapel, is denoted by a large oval of dark 
 flints : hereon perished Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, Margaret 
 Countess of Salisbury, and Lady Jane Grey. 
 
 The Bloody Tower gateway, built temp. Edward III. (opposite 
 Traitor's Gate), is the main entrance to the Inner "Ward : it has massive 
 gates and portcullis, complete, at the southern end ; but those at the 
 north end have been removed. 
 
 " The gates are genuine, and the portcullis is said to be the only one remain- 
 ing in England fit for use. The archway forms a noble specimen of the Dorio 
 order of Gothic. For a prison-entrance we know of no more perfect model." ' 
 Weale's London, p. 160. 
 
 "Westward of the White Tower, between the Chapel and Lieutenant's 
 Lodgings, was the "Tower Green," now the parade-ground of the 
 garrison. Northward, upon the site of the Grand Storehouse,* are the 
 Waterloo Barracks (to receive 1000 men), in the "modern castellated 
 style," its only ancient features being battlements and machiolations : 
 the first stone was laid June 14, 1845, by the Duke of Wellington, of 
 whom here is a pedestrian stone statue, by Milnes, upon a pedestal. 
 
 North-east of the "White Tower is another "modern castellated" 
 range of buildings for the officers of the garrison. South-eastward are 
 the Ordnance Office and Storehouses. 
 
 THE WHITE TOWER, citadel, or keep (for many years of itself "the 
 Tower of London," the other buildings having been added as outworks), 
 was begun by Bishop Gundulph, in 1078, on the site of a work said to 
 have been destroyed by floods. The external dimensions of the White 
 Tower are 176 fe'et no'rth and south by 96 feet east and west, with an 
 eastern semicircular projection, the apsis of the chapel. The elevation 
 is 92 feet ; it is embattled ; and its angles are finished with turrets, the 
 vanes of which are surmounted with the royal crown. The north and 
 south western turrets are square, with a slight projection ; the south-, 
 eastern turret is built upon the summit of the wall; and that at the 
 north-eastern angle is an irregular circle, and was pierced to receive 
 four clock-dials in 1854. This tower was called the Observatory, and was 
 employed by the " Astronomical Observator, John Flamstead, ' who had 
 "an hundred poundes yearly payd him out of this office (of Ordnance) :" 
 it contains a staircase which communicates with each of the floors, 
 from the vaults to the roof, which is covered with lead, and was once 
 a promenade for the prisoners. Traces of a large archway on the 
 north side indicate the original grand entrance, shown in the oldest 
 views ; the present entrances, north and south, are modern. The ex- 
 ternal walls are from 10 to 12 feet thick, and the internal walls 7 feet ; 
 
 * The large pediment of the Storehouse, filled with bold sculptures of the 
 royal arms, guns, and military trophies, was preserved, and has been set up 
 opposite the Martin Tower. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 733 
 
 of these there are only two, which divide each floor into three apart- 
 ments. The White Tower was first considerably repaired about the 
 middle of the 13th century; next, with Caen stone, in 1532; "it was 
 almost new erected in 1637 and 1638, being built of boulder and square 
 stone" (Hatton) ; and windows and other ancient features were oblite- 
 rated in the reign of William III. On the eastern side is a wing occu- 
 pied for Ordnance books and papers. Here, circ. 1708, were " 3000 bar- 
 rels of gunpowder at a time, with vast quantities of match; also swords 
 and gin for mounting great guns; and on the east side is a place 
 where the powder is proved before the surveyor and other officers." 
 On the first floor is Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, with a vaulted 
 roof: on the north side a door opens to a cell, 10 feet by 8, in the thick- 
 ness of the wall ; this is said to have been the prison-lodging of Sir 
 Walter Raleigh ; near the cell entrance are inscribed Rudstone, Fane, 
 and Culpeper, all implicated in Sir Thomas Wyatt's rebellion. 
 
 " He that indvreth to the ende shal be savid 
 M : 10 R. Rvdston. Dar. Kent. Ano. 1553." 
 " Be faithfvl vnto the deth and I wil give thee a crowne of Life. 
 
 T Fane 1554." 
 
 " T Cvlpeper of Ailsford, Kent." 
 
 On the second floor, reaching to the roof, is the Chapel of St. John 
 the Evangelist, the most perfect specimen of Norman architecture in 
 the metropolis ; it has an apsis, and a gallery supported by 12 massive 
 round columns, united by semicircular arches: here our early sovereigns 
 knelt before the King of kings. Three stained-glass windows were 
 added to this chapel by Henry III. : it has long been used as a record 
 depository. In the third floor is the Council Chamber, a state apart- 
 ment, with a massive timber roof: here the Protector Gloucester 
 ordered Lord Hastings to be led to instant execution in front of St. 
 Peter's Chapel ; and commanded the arrest of the Archbishop of York, 
 the Bishop of Ely, and Lord Stanley. King John of France was lodged 
 in the White Tower in 1357. The vaults underneath were occupied as 
 prisons : among their inscriptions is one carved by Fisher, Bishop of 
 Rochester. Throughout the building there is no trace of a fireplace 
 or of a well. 
 
 A paper drawn up by a yeoman-warder, in 1641, shows the White Tower to 
 have then been the Office of Ordnance ; the Martin Tower to the Porter of the 
 Mint; the Byward and Water-gate Towers to the warders; and eleven other 
 towers to have been " prison-lodgings." 
 
 Imprisonments. Upwards of 1000 prisoners have been confined in 
 the chambers and cells of the Tower at one time. Among the cele- 
 brated persons imprisoned here, besides those already named, were : 
 A.D. 1100. Ralph Flambard, the militant Bishop of Durham. 1296. 
 Balliol, King of Scotland, and Scottish chieftains. 1307. Lady Badles- 
 mere, for refusing the queen of Edward II. lodging in her castle of 
 Leeds, Kent. 1347. Charles of Blois, and the twelve citizens of Calais 
 with the governor. 1386. Geoffrey Chaucer, said to have here written 
 his Testament of Love. (Chaucer was appointed clerk of the works, 
 July 13, 1389, 13th Richard II.) 1415. The Duke of Orleans, father 
 of Louis XII., composed here a volume of English poems, which con- 
 tains the earliest view of the Tower. 1534. John Fisher, Bishop of Ro- 
 chester ; and Sir Thomas More. 1540. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 
 1547. The Duke of Norfolk and his son, the poet Earl of Surrey. 
 
 " xxxviij . A. (Hen. VIII.) Thys yere the xij th day of December the dewke 
 of Norffoke and the yerle of Sorre hys sonne ware comyttyd unto the tower of 
 London, and the dewke went be waiter from the lorde chaunselers place in Hoi- 
 borne that was sometyme the byshoppe of Ely's, and soo downe un to the^atter 
 
734 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 syde, and so be waiter un to the tower ; and hys sonne the yerle of Sorre went 
 thorrow the cytte of London, makynge grete lamentacion. * * Item the 13. daj 
 of Januarij was the yerle of Sorrey browte from the tower of London un to th 
 yelde halle of London, and there he was from ix. unto yt was v. at nyght, and 
 there had hys juggement to be heddyd; and soo the xix. day of the same month 
 it was done at the Towre hylle." Citron. Grey Friars of London. 
 
 1553. Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley. Latimer was also a prisoner here 
 from 1541 to 1547. 1554. Sir Thomas Wyatt. 1562. The Earl of South- 
 ampton, the friend of Shakspeare. 1606. Guy Fawkes and his fellow- 
 conspirators. 1622. Lord Chancellor Bacon, "a broken reed;" Sii 
 Edward Coke, a close prisoner. 1613. Sir Thomas Overbury, sup- 
 posed to have been poisoned by his gaoler. 1616. The Countess of 
 Somerset,* for Overbury's murder. 1626. " Mr. Moor was sent to 
 the Tower for speaking (in Parliament) out of season ; and Sir "William 
 Widdrington and Sir Herbert Price for bringing in candles against the 
 desire of the House." (Dwarris, on Statutes, p. 83.) 1628. Felton, the 
 assassin of the Duke of Buckingham ; Sir John Elliot, second imprison- 
 ment ; John Selden. 1641. Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford; Arch- 
 bishop Laud, and Bishop Hall. 1648. The pious Jeremy Taylor. 1651. 
 Sir William Davenant, whose life was saved by Milton and Whitelocke. 
 1656. Lucy Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth : she was libe- 
 rated by Oliver Cromwell. 1661. Harrington, who wrote the Oceana. 
 1679. Viscount Stafford, beheaded 1680. 1679. Samuel Pepys, the 
 diarist, suspected of connexion with the Popish Plot ; liberated on bail 
 for 30,OOOZ. 1681. The Earl of Shaftesbury. 1683. William Lord 
 Russell and Algernon Sidney. 1685. James Duke of Monmouth. 
 1688 (the Revolution). The infamous Lord Jeffreys ; William Penn, 
 for street preaching ; the Seven Bishops. 1692. The great Duke of 
 Marlborough. 1712. Sir Robert Walpole, for receiving bribes. 1715. 
 Harley, Earl of Oxford ; the Earls of Derwentwater and Nithsdale. 
 1717. William Shippen, "downright Shippen" (Pope). 1722. Bishop 
 Atterbury and the Earl of Orrery. 1746. Lords Kilmarnock, Bal- 
 merino, and Lovat. 1760. Earl Ferrers, hanged for murder. 1762. 
 John Wilkes ; no charge specified. 1780. Lord George Gordon (Riots). 
 1794. John Home Tooke, Hardy, Thelwall, Holcroft, and others. Thej 
 Tower still remains the prison to which political offenders are com- 
 mitted bv Parliament. 
 
 The 'Constable of the Tower was formerly styled the Constable of 
 London, the Constable of the Sea, and the Constable of the Honour of 
 the Tower; which post was conferred by William I. upon Geoffry de 
 Mandeville, in reward of his services at the battle of Hastings. The 
 Constable, besides his salary, privileges, and perquisites, temp. Ed- 
 ward II. received a custom of 2d. from each person going and return- 
 ing by the Thames, on a pilgrimage to St. James's shrine. In the reign 
 of Richard II. the Constable received yearly 100?., with fees from his 
 prisoners, according to their rank, " for the suit of his irons :" of every 
 duke committed, 20Z. ; and for irons, earl, 20 marks ; baron, 10J. ; knight, 
 100 shillings. The Constable's salary is now 1000/. per annum : the 
 great Duke of Wellington was Constable from 1820 to his death in 1852* 
 and was succeeded by Viscount Combermere. The Lieutenant of the- 
 Tower is next in rank to the Constable; but the duties of both offices 
 are performed by the Deputy-Lieutenant and the Tower Major. Colonel 
 Gurwood, editor of the Duke of Wellington's Despatches, was long 
 Deputy-Lieutenant. The Gentleman Gaoler had the custody and 
 
 * The Countess of Somerset's " only child, born in the Tower during her im- 
 prisonment, and named Anne, after the name of the Queen, in the hopes thereby 
 of propitiating her majesty, was afterwards married to the Duke of Bedford, and 
 was the mother of Lord William Russell." A mos. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 735 
 
 locking-tip of the state prisoners. The Yeomen Warders, of whom 
 there are now 45, originally kept watch over the prisoners : in the reign 
 of Edward VI., the Duke of Somerset, in return for the attention and 
 respect they paid him whilst in confinement, procured them, after his 
 liberation, " to be swprne extraordinary of the guard, and to weare the 
 same livery they doe. : ' Their unifornThas not been changed since the 
 reign of Charleys II. 
 
 Locking-up the Tower is an ancient, curious, and stately ceremony. 
 A few minutes before the clock strikes the hour of eleven on Tuesdays 
 and Fridays, twelve the Head Warder (Yeoman Porter), clothed in a 
 long red cloak, bearing a huge bunch of keys, and attended by a brother 
 warder carrying a lantern, appears in front of the main guard-house, 
 and loudly calls out, " Escort keys !" The sergeant of the guard, with 
 five or six men, then turns out and follows him to the " Spur," or 
 outer gate ; each sentry challenging as they pass his post, " Who 
 goes there ?" " Keys." The gates being carefully locked and barred, 
 the procession returns, the sentries exacting the same explanation, and 
 receiving the same answer as before. Arrived once more in front of 
 the main guard-house, the sentry there gives a loud stamp with his foot, 
 and asks, " Who goes there?"" Keys." " Whose keys ?"_ Queen 
 Victoria's keys." " Advance Queen Victoria's keys, and all's well." 
 The Yeoman Porter then exclaims, " God bless Queen Victoria!" The 
 main guard respond, "Amen." The officer on duty gives the word, 
 " Present arms !" the firelocks rattle ; the officer kisses the hilt of his 
 sword ; the escort fall in among their companions ; and the Yeoman 
 Porter marches across the parade alone to deposit the keys in the Lieu- 
 enant's Lodgings. The ceremony over, not only is all egress and ingress 
 otally precluded, but even within the walls no one can stir without 
 >eing furnished with the countersign. 
 
 The Tower has a separate coroner ; and the public have access to the 
 ortress only by sufferance. When Horwood made his Survey of Lon- 
 lon, 1799, he was denied admission to the Tower ; and the refusal is thus 
 ecorded upon the map : " The Tower : the internal parts not distin- 
 guished, being refused permission to take the survey." 
 
 The Tower is extra-parochial ; and in 1851 the population was 882, 
 ,nd the military in barracks 606. 
 
 THE ARMOURIES. The fortress has been the depository of the na- 
 ional arms and accoutrements from the earliest ages of our monarchy ; 
 ind writs of various dates enumerate warlike stores contained in or 
 ssued from the Tower by " the Keeper of the Arms." In an inventory 
 emp. Edward VI. are mentioned many of the articles in the present col- 
 ection ; and Hentzner describes the Armouries in the reign of Eliza- 
 eth as one of the sights of London. 
 
 The Horse Armoury, 150 feet long, is on the south side of the White 
 Tower, and was built in 1826, when it was arranged by Sir Samuel 
 Meyrick. In the centre is a line of twenty-two equestrian figures, in 
 ;he armour of various reigns from Edward I. to James II. Over each 
 Igure is a crimson banner bearing the name and time of the king or 
 cnight represented by the effigy below ; but only a few of the armours 
 lave been actually worn by the persons to whom they are assigned. 
 Around the room are ranged other figures in armour, interspersed with 
 nilitary trophies and emblems ; besides other mounted figures ; arms of 
 different ages ; helmets, cuirasses, shields, &c. ; and on the ceiling are 
 lisplayed obsolete arms and accoutrements in fanciful devices. The 
 equestrian figures are of the time of 
 
 Edward I. (1272). Suit of a hauberk, with sleeves and chaussees, and a hood 
 with camail ; square-topped shield ; prick-spurs ; surcoat and baudric, modern. 
 
736 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Henry VI. (1450). Back and breast blates of flexible armour ; chain-mail 
 sleeves and skirt ; fluted gauntlets ; helmet a la Cade, with a frontlet and sur-' 
 mounting crest ; the horse housing emblazoned with the arms of France and 
 England ; fluted chauffron. 
 
 Edward IF. (1465). Tournament suit, with tilting lance; war saddle, some- 
 what later; horse housings, black, powdered with the king's badges the white' 
 rose and sun ; a spiked chauffron on horse's head. 
 
 Knight, temp. Richard III. (1483-1485). Ribbed German armour ; tilting ap-; 
 parel and original tilting lance: this suit was worn at the Eglinton Tournament! 
 by the Marquis of Waterford. 
 
 Knight, temp. Henry VII. (1485-1509). Fluted (German) suit ; burgonet i 
 helmet. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign; ancient sword, battle-axe, and 
 war-saddle ; horse armour fluted, and only wanting the flanchards. 
 
 Henry Fill. (1520). Damasked armour actually worn by this king. Two! 
 suits of the same reign, worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward] 
 Clinton, Earl of Lincoln. In a recess is " one of the most curious suits of armour \ 
 in the world," of German workmanship, once gilt, and made to commemorate the] 
 marriage of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Arragon : it is most elaborately en-j 
 graved with the rose and pomegranate, portcullis, fleurs-de-lis, and red dragon; 
 " H. K.," united by a true-lover's-knot ; saintly legends, mottoes, &c. 
 
 Edward VI. (1552). Russet armour, covered with beautiful filagree- work ; 
 burgonet helmet ; horse armour complete, embossed with the combined badges 
 of Burgundy and Granada. 
 
 Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Richly gilt suit, with indented 
 slashes; weight of body armour exceeds 100 Ibs. 
 
 Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1560). Tilting suit actually worn by Leices- 
 ter, temp. Elizabeth: it bears the initials " R. D.," and the earl's cognizance of ; 
 the bear and ragged staff: this suit " was kept in the tilt-yard, where it was ex- 
 hibited on particular days" (Meyrick). 
 Sir Henry Lea (1570). Suit of plate. 
 
 Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1581). Suit of armour, richly engraved and 
 gilt; burgonet helmet. This armour was worn by the King's Champion at the 
 coronation of George II. 
 
 James I. (1605). Plain suit of tilting armour. Of the same period are the 
 suits of cap-a-pie armour assigned to Sir Horace Vere, and Thomas Howard, Earl i 
 of Arundel. 
 
 Henry Prince of Wales (1612). Richly-gilt suit made for the prince; en- 
 graved with battles, sieges, &c. 
 
 George Filliers, Duke of Buckingham (1618). Full suit of plate. 
 Charles Prince of Wales (1620). Suit made for the prince when about twelve 
 years old. 
 
 Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford (1635). Armour continued only to the 
 knees. 
 
 Charles I. (1640). Magnificent suit presented to Charles, when Prince of 
 "Wales, by the Armourers' Company of the City of London : it is richly gilt andt . 
 arabesqued; face is carved by Gibbons. This suit was laid on the coflin of the-, i 
 great Duke of Marlborough, in his funeral procession. 
 
 James II. (1685). Cuirass over a velvet coat; casque and pierced visor : the- 
 head was carved by Gibbons, as a portrait of Charles II. 
 
 Here also are : a swordsman (Henry VII.). A man-at-arms and 
 foot-soldier (Henry VIII.). " Armour cap-a-pe, rough from the ham- : 
 mer, said to be King Henry ye 8ths." Suits belonging to the Prince* j 
 Henry and Charles, sons of James I. Cavaliers and pikemen (temp. ] 
 Charles L). A fragment of "penny plate armour." Magnificent suit 
 of Italian armour, engraved and gilt. Cuirasses from Waterloo. Ancient 
 suits of chain-mail. Halbards,* shields, and helmets. " The Norman Cru~ 
 sader," really an Asiatic suit of mixed chain and plate. Very curious hel- 
 mets. Pieces of a puffed and engraved suit of armour (temp. Henry VIII.),. \ 
 extremely rare. Ancient German bone saddle, with Teutonic inscrip- ' 
 tion. The " Anticke Headpiece with rames Homes and speckakels oa 
 it of Will Somers," jester to Henry VIII. Specimens of hand fire- 
 
 * The halbard remained in use among our troops till within 50 years, and 
 may still be seen as an official weapon in our courts of justice. The warders of 
 the Tower are still armed with the partisan : it is still carried by the watchmea 
 in Denmark. 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 737 
 
 arms. Ancient warder's horn, of carved ivory. Chinese military dresses 
 from Chusan. Helmet, belt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo 
 Saib. Concave rondelle with spiked boss, such as is seen in the picture 
 of " Henry the Eighth's Embarcation at Dover," at Hampton Court. 
 
 Part of a horse armour of cuir bouilli, extremely rare and curious. 
 On the columns are groups of arms now in use among continental 
 powers; arms employed in England from the time of James II. to the 
 present reign ; and projects for the improvement of war implements. 
 
 Here are celts ; ancient British axes, swords, and spears, of bronze 
 (one axe found near Hastings, supposed temp. Harold); a British 
 battle-axe found in the Thames in 1829; Roman spear-head; Saxon 
 daggers and battle-axes. 
 
 At the top of the stairs are two rudely-carved wood figures, " Gin" 
 and " Beei-," from over the buttery of the old palace at Greenwich. A 
 very curious Indian suit of armour, sent to Charles II. by the Great 
 Mogul. Ten small cannon, presented by the brass-founders of London 
 to Charles II. when a boy. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, cased with wood in the Norman style, 
 is entered at the eastern side of the White Tower : the -windows are 
 filled with stained glass, in part ancient. Here is an equestrian figure 
 of Elizabeth, in a/ac simile of the robe worn by her on going to St. 
 Paul's to return thanks. The weapons collected here were brought ori- 
 ginally from "The Spanish Weapon House," and were long called " The 
 Spanish Armoury," misinterpreted as the spoils of the Spanish Armada. 
 These weapons were mostly used temp. Elizabeth and Henry VIII. 
 The collection of spears is interesting. Here is the Morning-star, or 
 Holy-water (blood) Sprinkle, a spiked ball on a pole, used by infantry 
 from the Conquest till temp. Henry VIII. The walls are hung with 
 early shields. Two bows of yew, from the wreck of the Mary Rose, 
 1545; ea.-ly kite shield; two cross-hilted swords, temp. Crusaders, 
 authentic and rare. Thumb-screws, or thumbikins; the " Iron Coller 
 of Torment, taken from ye Spanyard in ye yeare 1588;" the iron 
 Cravat, " Scavenger's or Sketfington's Daughter." Ancient Cresset, 
 with spear-head. Mace- cannon, carried at the saddle-bow. Long- 
 pikes and boar-spears, in the Tower temp. Edward VI. Large pavoise, 
 or archer's shield. " Great Holly-water Sprincle, with three gonnes 
 in the top." Spontoon of the guard of Henry VIII. Guisarmes and 
 glaives, partisans, lances, pikes, and halbards. On the floor is the 
 heading-axe with which the Earl of Essex was executed, temp. Eliza- 
 beth. Heading-block on which Lords Balmerino, Kilmarnock, and 
 Lovat were decapitated on Tower-hill, in 1746. The money received 
 for admission to the Armouries is expended in adding to the collection ; 
 thus, in 1853, a beautiful suit of Greek armour, found in a tomb at 
 Cumse, was purchased for 200/. : it is shown in the Horse Armoury. 
 
 Among the Curiosities mentioned by Hatton, 1708, is the sword 
 which Lord Kingsale took from a French guard, for which he and his 
 posterity have the favour of being covered in the king's presence. On 
 the stairs is part of the keel of the Roval George, sunk in 1782. 
 
 In the Ante-room added to Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, fitted up in 
 1851, from the plan of Mr. Stacey, Ordnance Storekeeper, are a group 
 of cannon from Waterloo, two kettle-drums from Blenheim; and speci- 
 mens, ancient and modern, of every description of weapon now in the 
 Tower. Here are also the sword and sash of Field Marshal the Duke 
 of York ; and General Wolfe's cloak, on which he died before Quebec. 
 In the centre of the room is a beautifully ornamented bronze gun. 
 Here are two large brass guns taken at Quebec by General Wolfe, a 
 stand of cross-bows, and four figures in armour. In the western com- 
 partment are chiefly oriental arms and armour : suit of chain-mail (re* 
 
 BBS 
 
738 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 puted Bajazet, 1401) ; Asiatic iron boot; Saracenic and Indian armour; 
 memorials from Tippoo Saib's armoury; collection of Chinese armour ; 
 brass gun taken from the Chinese in 1842, inscribed, "RICHARD: 
 PHILIPS : MADE : THIS : PECE : AN : DNI : 1601 ;" arms from Kaf- 
 fraria; hempen armour from the South Seas; New Zealand implements, 
 and chiefs robe; rich Indian and Moorish arms and accoutrements, 
 from the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and a cabinet of oriental armour, 
 weapons, horse-furniture, &c., presented by the Hon. East India Com- 
 pany. Here is the large anchor taken at Camperdown by Admiral 
 Duncan. In 1854 were added 2000 stands of arms from Bomarsund, 
 the first spoils of the Russian war. 
 
 Outside the White Tower, on the south-east, are : an ancient gun 
 for stone shot ; two brass guns, temp. Henry VII. and Henry VUI. : 
 French, Spanish, and Chinese guns ; guns from the wreck of the Royal 
 George; and several mortars, including one of 18 inches, used at the 
 siege of Namur by William III. 
 
 Mr. Hewitt's work is by far the most accurate and illustrative 
 guide to the Tower Armouries. 
 
 THE REGALIA, OR CROWN JEWELS, have been exhibited to the 
 public for a fee since the Restoration of Charles II. They had been 
 previously kept sometimes in the Tower, in the Treasury of the Temple 
 or other religious house, and in the Treasury at Westminster. The 
 Royal Jewels were several times pledged to provide for the exigences 
 of our monarchs : by Henry III., Edward III., Henry V., Henry VI. ; 
 and Richard II. offered them to the merchants of London as a guarantee 
 for a loan. The office of Keeper of the Regalia, conferred by the king's 
 letters patent, became in the reigns of the Tudors a post of great 
 emolument and dignity, and " the Master of the Jewel-house" took rank 
 as the first Knight Bachelor of England : the office was sometime held 
 by Cromwell, afterwards Earl of Essex. During the civil war under 
 Charles I. the Regalia were sold and destroyed. On the Restoration 
 of Charles II. new Regalia were made, for which was paid to the king's 
 
 Soldsmith, Sir Robert Vyner, 21,9781. 9s. lid. (Treasury Order, 20 
 une, 1662.) The emoluments of the Master of the Jewel-house were 
 now so reduced, that Sir Gilbert Talbot obtained permission to show 
 the Regalia to strangers for a fee; which proved so profitable, that Sir 
 Gilbert, upon the death of his servant who showed the jewels, 
 was offered 500 gold broad- pieces for the place. In this reign, May 
 9, 1671, Colonel Blood made his daring attempt to carry off " the 
 crown, globe, and sceptre." The Regalia were then kept in a strong 
 vaulted chamber of the Martin Tower, and were shown behind strong 
 iron bars : through these, in 1815, a woman forced her hands and tore 
 the royal crown to pieces. The Regalia were next shown at one view 
 by the light of six argand lamps, with powerful reflectors. 
 
 In 1842, a new Jewel House was built in the late Tudor style, south 
 of the Martin Tower: where the Regalia are shown upon a pyramidal 
 stand, enclosed within plate-glass ; and over the whole is an open iron 
 frame, or cage, of Tudor design, surmounted by a regal crown of iron. 
 The Regalia are : St. Edward's Crown, or the ancient Imperial 
 Crown, made temp. Charles II., to replace that said to have been worn 
 by Edward the Confessor : and with which the Sovereign is crowned at 
 the altar. This is the crown which Blood stole: the arches, flowers, 
 and fillets are covered with large multi-coloured jewels ; and the purple 
 velvet cap is faced with ermine. 
 
 The New State Crown was made with the jewels of the crown of 
 George IV., for the coronation of Queen Victoria, The cap is of purple 
 velvet ; the nearly pointed arches are covered with diamonds, and sup- 
 port a mound and Maltese cross, also of brilliants (the mound was ori- 
 
TOWER OF LONDON. 739 
 
 ginally one stone, an aqua-marine) ; in the cross are 3 large pearls, the 
 " inestimable sapphire, ' nearly 2 inches square, and the heart-shaped 
 ruby, said to have been worn by the Black Prince, and presented to 
 him by John King of Portugal. It has also an emerald 7 inches round ; 
 and in the front is a large Jerusalem cross, entirely fronted with bril- 
 liants. The four largest diamonds in the crown are valued at 40,000?. ; 
 the whole crown is estimated at 111,900?. : it weighs only 19 oz. 10 dwts.* 
 There are correct woodcuts of the crown, by S. Williams, in Britton's 
 Dictionary of Architecture, and Sharp's Peerage. Haydon, in his Au- 
 tobiography (1830), vol. ii. p. 236, has this odd entry : 
 
 " The Crown at the Coronation was not bought, but borrowed. Rundell's 
 price was 70,000^. ; and Lord Liverpool told the King he could not sanction such 
 an expenditure. Rundell charged 7000J for ttie loan ; and as some time elapsed 
 before it was decided whether the crown should be bought or not, Rundell 
 charged 3000/. or 4000J. more for the interval." 
 
 The Prince of Wales's Crown, of pure gold, plain, without jewels : 
 it is placed upon a velvet cushion, in the House of Lords, before the seat 
 of the Heir Apparent, when Her Majesty opens or prorogues Pa^lia- 
 ment; for which occasions it is conveyed with the imperial crown of 
 the sovereign from the Tower, by the Keeper of the Jewel-office, at- 
 tended by warders, in a coach. 
 
 The Queen Consort's Crown, of gold, set with diamonds, pearls, 
 and other jewels ; made for the queen of William III. 
 
 The Queen's Diadem, or Circlet of Gold, made for the coronation 
 of Maria d'Este, consort of James II., at the cost of 111,000?. (Sand- 
 ford) : it is set with diamonds, and surmounted with a string of pearls. 
 
 St. Edward's Staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length ; sur- 
 mounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike ; the orb is 
 said to contain a fragment of the true Cross. The staff weighs 9 Ibs. 
 
 The Royal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold : the pommel 
 is set with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds; the fleurs-de-lis have been 
 replaced by the rose, shamrock, and thistle, in gold ; and the cross is 
 covered with jewels, and has a large centre table-diamond. 
 
 The Rod of Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 
 inches long, is set with diamonds, &c., and is surmounted with an orb, 
 banded with rare diamonds, supporting a Jerusalem cross, on which is 
 a gold dove with expanded wings. 
 
 The Queen's Sceptre and Cross, ornamented with large diamonds ; 
 made for the coronation of Mary, Queen of William III. 
 
 The Queen's Ivory Sceptre, made for Maria d'Este, mounted in 
 
 d, and bearing a golden cross, and a dove of white onyx : it is some- 
 times miscalled Queen Anne Boleyn's. 
 
 An ancient Sceptre, found behind the wainscoting of the old Jewel- 
 office in 1814 : it is set with jewels, and is supposed to have belonged to 
 Mary, Queen of William III. 
 
 The Orb, of gold, 6 inches in diameter ; the bands are set with pre- 
 ious stones and roses of diamonds, and edged with pearls ; a very large 
 imethyst supports the gold cross, set with diamonds, &c. 
 
 The Queen's Orb, resembling the former, but of smaller dimensions. 
 
 The Sword of Mercy, or Curtana, of steel, but pointless ; orna- 
 mented with gold. 
 
 The Swords of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Temporal. 
 
 The Armillee, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased with the rose, 
 Jeur-de-lis, and harp, and edged with pearls. 
 
 The Royal Spurs, of curiously wrought gold : they are used at the 
 coronation of king or queen. 
 
 * The State Crown of Charles I., found in the upper Jewel-house, contained 
 1 Ibs. 7 oz. of gold : in one of the fleur-de-lis was " a picture of the Virgin Mary." 
 
740 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Ampulla, of pure gold, in the form of an eagle ; is used at coro- 
 nations for the holy oil, which is poured from the beak into 
 
 The Gold Anointing Spoon, supposed to be the only relic of the an- 
 cient Regalia ; its date is about the 12th century. The" Ampulla is said 
 to have been brought from Sens Abbey, in France, by Thomas a Becket. 
 
 The Gold Saltcellar of State, set with jewels, and chased with gro- 
 tesque figures, is in the form of a round castle, and has been miscalled 
 "a Model of the White Tower:" it has a central turret, and four at the 
 angles, the tops of which are removed for the salt ; around the base 
 are curious figures. It was presented to the crown by the City of 
 Exeter, and was last used at the coronation banquet of George IV. 
 
 The Baptismal Pont, silver-gilt, elaborately chased, and formerly 
 used at the christening of the Royal Family, but superseded by a new 
 font of picturesque design. A large Silver Wine Fountain, presented 
 by the Corporation of Plymouth to Charles II.; 12 Golden Saltcellars, 
 chased ; two massive gold " Coronation Tankards ;" the Banqueting 
 Dish, Gold Spoons, and other Coronation Plate. Also, a Service of Sa- 
 cramental Plate, one dish bearing a fine alto relievo of the Last Supper ; 
 used at Coronations, and in the chapel of St. Peter in the Tower. 
 
 Admission daily (Sundays excepted), to the Armouries, 6d. each 
 person; and to see the Regalia, Qd. each; in parties of twelve, con- 
 ducted by a warder, every half-hour, from 12 to 4 o'clock inclusive. 
 
 TOWER HILL 
 
 Is described by Hatton (1708) as " a spacious place extending round the 
 west and north parts of the Tower, w here are many good new buildings, 
 mostlv inhabited by gentry and merchants. Upon this hill such persons 
 as are committed "to the Tower and found guilty of high treason are 
 commonly executed. And Stow says the scaffolds were built at the 
 charge of the City, but in the reign of Edward IV. the same was 
 erected at the charge of the King's officers; and that many controver- 
 sies have been between the City and Lieutenant of the Tower touching 
 their liberties." A century previous the spot was noted for its salubrity : 
 
 " The Tower Hill, 
 Of all the places London can afford, 
 Hath sweetest ayre." Haughton's Englishmen for my Money, 1616, 4to. 
 
 The "bounds" of the Tower Liberties are perambulated triennially, 
 when, after service in the church of St. Peter, a procession is formed 
 upon the parade: including a headsman, bearing the axe of execution; 
 a painter to mark the bounds; yeomen warders, with halbards ; the 
 Deputy Lieutenant and other officers of the Tower, &c. : when the] 
 boundary-stations are painted with a red "broad arrow" upon a white 
 ground, while the chaplain of St. Peter's repeats, "Cursed be he who 
 removeth his neighbour's landmark." Another old custom of lighting) 
 a bonfire on Tower Hill on Nov. 5th was suppressed in 1854. 
 
 Lady Raleigh lived on Tower Hill after she had been forbidden to 
 lodge with her husband in the Tower. William Penn was born, April 
 14th, 1644, in a court on the east side of Tower Hill. At the Bull 
 public-house died, April 14th, 1685, Otway the poet, it is said of hunger. ' 
 ** In a by cutlers shop of Tower Hill," says Sir Henry Wotton, " Felton 
 bought "a tenpenny knife (so cheap was'the instrument of this great 
 attempt)," with which he assassinated the Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 Postern-row, with a few posts set across the footpath (opposite 
 about the middle of the Tower moat), denotes the site of the Postern- 
 gate, at the south-eastern termination of the City Wall. Here is the 
 rendezvous for enlisting sailors and soldiers, which formerly had its press- 
 
TOWER ROYAL. 741 
 
 gangs. The shops display odd admixtures of marine stores, pea-jackets 
 
 and straw-hats, " rope, hour-glasses, Gunter's scales, and dog-biscuits." 
 
 The Place of Execution, on Great Tower Hill, is shown in the old 
 
 plan of the Tower at page 726: the space eastward is Little Tower Hill. 
 
 Notable Persons Executed on Tower Hill. June 22, 1535, Bishop Fisher. 
 July tf, 1535, Sir Thomas More. July 28, 1540, Cromwell, Earl of Essex. May 
 27, 1541, Margaret Pole, Countess of Shrewsbury. Jan. 20, 1547, Earl of Surrey, 
 the poet. March 20, 1549, Thomas Lord Seymour of Sudeley, by order of his 
 brother, the Protector Somerset, who was beheaded Jan. 22, 1552. Feb. 12, 
 1553-4, Lord Guildford Dudley. April 11, 1554, Sir Thomas Wyatt. May 12, 
 1641, Eatl of Stratford. Jan. 10, 1644-5, Archbishop Laud. Dec. 29, 1680, 
 William Viscount Stafford, " insisting on his innocence to the very last." 
 Dec. 7, 183, Algernon Sydney. July 15, 1^85, the Duke of Monmouth. Feb. 
 24, 1716, Earl of Derwentwater and Lord Kenmuir. Aug. 18, 1746, Lords Kil- 
 marnock and Balmerino. Dec. 8, 1746, Mr. Radcliffe, who had been, with his 
 brother Lord Derwentwater, convicted of treason in the Rebellion of 1715, when 
 Derwentwater was executed; but Radcliffe escaped, and was identified by the 
 barber who, 31 years before, had shaved him in the Tower. The late Chamberlain 
 Clark, who died in 1 831 , aged 92, well remembered (his father then residing in the 
 Minories) seeing the glittering of the executioner's axe in the sun as it fell upon 
 Mr. RadclinVs neck. April 9, 1747, Simon Lord Lovat, the last beheading in 
 England, and the last execution upon Tower Hill, when a scaffolding built near 
 Barking-alley fell with nearly 1000 persons on it, and 12 were killed. 
 
 On the west side of Tower Hill is Great Tower-street : No. 48, on 
 the south side, is the Czar's Head, built upon the site of a former 
 tavern, where Peter the Great (Czar of Muscovy) and his companions, 
 after their day's work, used to meet, to smoke pipes and drink beer 
 and brandy. In Little Tower-street, No. 12, was Watts's Academy, 
 where Thomson was tutor when he wrote his Summer. 
 
 At the south-west corner of the Hill is Tower Dock, where Sir 
 Walter Kaleigh, disguised, embarked in a boat for Tilbury ; but being 
 betrayed, he was arrested on the Thames, and committed to the Tower. 
 
 TOWER ROYAL, 
 
 A short street or lane between St. Antholin's Church, "Watling-street, 
 and the south end of St. Thomas Apostle, was removed in 1853-4, in 
 forming New Cannon-street West. It occupied the site of a building 
 stated by Stow to have anciently belonged to the kings of England, as 
 early as Stephen ; but it was subsequently discastled, and held as a tene- 
 ment by one Simon of Beauvais, Burgeon to Edward I. Mr. Hudson 
 Turner states it to be invariably called in early records la Real, la Riole, 
 or la Ryle or Ryole, but not a tower; and he could not find it occupied 
 by royalty until Edward III., in 1331, granted it to his Queen Philippa 
 as a depository for her wardrobe ; by whom la Real was externally 
 repaired, if not rebuilt. In 1370, Edward bestowed it upon the canons 
 of St. Stephen's, Westminster; but it reverted to the Crown, and was 
 called " the Queen's Wardrobe " in the reign of Richard II. It was a 
 place of strength ; and the king's mother fled here for shelter when Wat 
 Tyler had seized the Tower of London. Leon III., King of Armenia, 
 when driven from his kingdom by the Turks, was lodged and enter- 
 tained in Tower Royal by Richard II., in 13S6. It was granted by 
 Richard III. to the first Duke of Norfolk of the Howard family, as en"- 
 tered in that king's ledger-book. In Stow's time, Tower Royal had 
 become stabling for the king's horses, and was let in tenements : the 
 whole was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. In removing the modern 
 houses upon the site, in 1852, were found the remains of a Roman villa : 
 the earth was interspersed with horns, bones, teeth of goats and 
 oxen ; tusks of boars; fragments of flanged tiles, scored flue-tiles, am- 
 phora, mortaria, urns, glass vessels, and Samian pottery. Some of 
 these relics are engraved in the Illustrated London News, No. 554. 
 
742 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 TREASURY (THE), 
 
 And other Government Offices, Whitehall, occupy a portion of the site 
 of the old palace. To make way for the north wing, the last portion of 
 old York House was taken down in 1846 : it had been refronted, but the 
 Tudor doorway was ancient. The principal Treasury building, how- 
 ever, faces the parade-ground, St. James's Park: it was built by Kent, 
 in 1733 ; it consists of three stories, Tuscan, Doric, and Ionic. The 
 Whitehall front consists of the Treasury, Board of Trade, and Privy 
 Council Offices ; designed by Barry, R. A*, in 1846-8. partly in place of Sir 
 John Soane's facade (the centre and south wing), decorated with three- 
 quarter columns from those of the Campo Vaccino at Rome. Soane's 
 exterior, exposed to the criticism of every passenger, was much cen- 
 sured; "whilst the interior, in which the skill and taste of the architect 
 is most manifest, and particularly the Council Chamber, is but little seen, 
 and known only to a few persons." (Sritton.) Barry's design consists 
 of a long series of attached Corinthian columns on rusticated piers, and 
 carrying a highly- enriched entablature and frieze ; the attics have carved 
 drops of fruit and flowers, and the balustrade carries urn-shaped vases : 
 the whole facade is 296 feet long. The Council Office occupies the site 
 of the old Tennis-court. 
 
 At the Cockpit died General Monk, Duke of Albemarle, 4th Jan. 
 1670; and in the same month his duchess, Nan Clarges. Queen Anne, 
 when Princess of Denmark, fled down the back stairs, in 1688, to join 
 her father's enemies, Lord Dorset and Bishop Compton riding on each 
 side of the hackney-coach as an escort. Hatton, in 1708, describes the 
 Treasury Office kept at the Cockpit," where the Lord High Treasurer 
 sits to receive petitions, and give orders, warrants, &c." Here, March 
 8, 1711, Guiscard attempted to stab with a penknife Harlev, Earl of 
 Oxford, but was struck down by the swords of Lord Paulet and Mr. St. 
 John. The Cockpit itself occupied nearly the site of the present Board 
 of Trade Office, and it existed early in the present century : the King's 
 speech was read "at the Cockpit" on the day before it was delivered at 
 the opening of the session of Parliament : and the discontinuance of this 
 practice was much complained of by the Opposition. The term " Given 
 at the Cockpit at Westminster" was in use within the writer's recollec- 
 tion. The Lord High Treasurer formerly carried a staff of office (see 
 the portrait of the great Lord Burghley); and he sat in a needlework 
 chair, which is preserved at the Office 'of the Comptroller of the Ex- 
 chequer, Whitehall-yard. " The sovereign occasionally presided at the 
 Board of Treasury until the accession of Georjje III. ; and the royal 
 throne still remains at the head of the table." (Notes, by F. S. Thomas, 
 Record Office.) The Board of Treasury sits daily, but has long ceased 
 to manage the revenue. An interesting series "of Treasury Minutes, 
 from 1667 to 1834, is appended to the " Seventh Report of the Deputy- 
 Keeper of the Public Records." 
 
 TRINITY HOUSE (THE), 
 
 On the north side of Tower Hill, was built by Samuel Wyatt, 1793-5, 
 for the ancient guild founded by Sir Thomas Spert, commander of the 
 great ship Harry Grace de Dieu, and Comptroller of the Navy to King 
 Henry VIII., and incorporated 1515. It has in charge the light- 
 houses and sea-marks, and the licensing of pilots, tonnage, ballastage, 
 beaconage, &c., producing about 300,OOOJ. a-year : the net revenue, 
 about one-fourth, is principally expended in maintaining poor dis- 
 abled seamen and their widows and orphans, by pensions, in the Cor- 
 poration hospitals at Deptford-Strond ; which the Master, Deputy- 
 Master, and Brethren visit in their state-yacht, in grand procession, on 
 
TYBURN AND " TYBURN TREE." 743 
 
 Trinity Monday. The Master, Prince Albert, succeeded the late Duke 
 of Wellington in 1852. The Trinity House is of the Ionic order ; upon 
 its principal front are sculptured the arms of the Corporation, medal- 
 lions of George III. and Queen Charlotte; genii with nautical instru- 
 ments ; the four principal lighthouses on the coast, &c. The interior 
 has busts of Vincent, Nelson, Howe, and Duncan ; W. Pitt and Capt. J. 
 Cotton, by Chantrey; George III., by Turnerelli, &c. The Court- 
 room is decorated with impersonations of the Thames, Medway, Severn, 
 and Humber ; and among the pictures is a large painting, 20 feet long, 
 by Gainsborough, of the Elder Brethren of the Trinity House. In the 
 Board-room are portraits of James I. and II., Elizabeth, Anne of Den- 
 mark, Earl Craven, Sir Francis Drake, Sir J. Leake, and General Monk. 
 The Museum is noticed at page 545. The arms of the Corporation are 
 a cross between four ships under sail. 
 
 The present is the third House built for the Corporation ; the first 
 was destroyed in the Great Fire of 16G6. Pepys records : " Sept. 4, 1 
 after supper walked in the dark down to Tower-street, and there saw 
 it all on fire ; at the Trinity House on that side, and the Dolphin Tavern 
 on this side." The second House was erected in Water-lane in 1671, 
 and is described by Hatton as " a stately building of brick and stone, and 
 adorned with ten bustos:" the house, of fine red brick, in part remains. 
 
 TYBURN AND " TYBURN TREE." 
 
 Tyburn was anciently a manor and village west of London, on the 
 Tjbourn or brook, subsequently the West&ourn, the western boundary 
 of the district, now incorporated in the parish of Paddington. This 
 stream (within memory a favourite resort of anglers) is shown descend- 
 ing from the high ground about Hampstead in the' maps by Saxton, 
 1579; Speede, 1610; Seller, 1733; in Morden's and Seales's, and in 
 Rocque's surveys. Upon its bank was the place of execution for crimi- 
 nals convicted in London and Middlesex as early as 1330, when Roger de 
 Mortimer was " drawn and hanged" at " the Elms," described by Holin^ 
 shed as " now Tiborne ;" and Elms-lane, Bayswater, points out to this 
 day where the fatal elm grew, and the gentle Tiborne ran : 
 " Then fatal carts through Holborn seldom went, 
 And Tyburn with few pilgrims was content." Oldham's Satire, 1682. 
 
 Elms-lane is the first opening on the right hand after getting into the Ux- 
 bridge-road from the Grand-Junction-road, opposite the head of the Serpentine ; 
 the Serpentine itself being formed in the bed of the ancient stream, first called 
 Tybourn, then Westbourn, then Ranelagh Sewer; while the stream which crossed 
 Oxford-street, west of Stratford-place, first bore the name ot Eyebourn, then Ty- 
 bourn, then King's Scholars' Pond. Robins's Paddinyton, 1853, page 8. 
 
 The gallows, " Tyburn-tree," was a triangle upon three legs, and is 
 thus described in the 16th and 17th centuries. If Mr. Robins's location 
 of the gibbet be correct, it was subsequently changed; for in the lease 
 of the house No. 49 Connaught-square, the gallows is stated to have 
 stood upon that spot. Smith (Hist. St. Mary-le-Bone) states it to 
 have been for many years a standing fixture on a small eminence at 
 the corner of the Edgware-road, near the turnpike, on the identical 
 spot where a tool house was subsequently erected by the Uxbridge-road 
 Trust. Beneath this place lie the bones of Bradshaw, Ireton, and other 
 regicides, which were taken from their graves after the Restoration, 
 and buried under the gallows. It subsequently consisted of two 
 uprights and a cross-beam, erected on the morning of execution across 
 the Edgware-road, opposite the house at the corner of Upper Bryan- 
 stone-street and the Edgware-road, wherein the gallows was deposited 
 after being used; and this house had curious iron balconies to the 
 windows of the first and second floors, where the sheriffs attended the 
 
744 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 executions. After the place of execution was changed to Newgate in 
 1783, the gallows was bought by a carpenter, and made into stands for 
 beer-butts in the cellars of the Carpenters' Arms public-house, hard by. 
 Around the gibbet ("the fatal retreat for the unfortunate brave") 
 were erected open galleries like a race-course stand, wherein seats 
 were let to spectators at executions : the key of one of them was 
 kept by Mammy Douglas, "the Tyburn pew-opener." In 1758, when 
 Dr. Henesey was to have been executed for treason, the prices of seats 
 rose to 2*. and 2s. 6d. ; but the doctor being "most provokingly re- 
 prieved," a riot ensued, and most of the seats were destroyed. The 
 criminals were conveyed thither from Newgate : 
 
 " thief and parson in a Tyburn cart." Prologue by Dryden, 1682. 
 The oldest existing representation of the Tyburn gallows is in a 
 German print in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Museum ; wherein 
 Henrietta- Maria, queen of Charles I., is kneeling in penance beneath 
 the triple tree : it is moonlight ; the confessor is seated in the royal 
 coach, drawn by six horses ; and at the coach-door is a servant bearing a 
 torch. The "pore queene," it is stated, walked afoot (some say bare- 
 foot) from St. James's to Tyburn, to do homage to the saintship of some 
 recently executed papists : but this is denied by the Marshal de Bas- 
 sompierre ; and the above print is of later date than 1628, the year of 
 the reputed pilgrimage. 
 
 Memorable Executions at Tyburn. 1330 (4th Edw. III.), Roger de Mortimer, 
 for treason; 1388(12th Richard II.), Judge Tresilian and Sir N. Brembre, treason; 
 1449 (14th Hen. VII.), Perkin Warbeck was executed here for plotting his escape 
 from the Tower; 1534 (24th Hen. VIII.), the Holy Maid of Kent and her con- 
 federates; 1535, the last Prior of the Carthusian Monastery (Charter House); 
 Robert Southwell, Elizabethan sacred poet; 1615, Mrs. Turner, hanged in a 
 yellow-starched ruff, for the poisoning of Sir Thomas Overbury; 1628, John Fel- 
 ton, assassin of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; 1660-1 (Jan. 30), the first anni- 
 versary of the execution of Charles I. after the Restoration : the disinterred bodies 
 of Oliver Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw hung in their shrouds and cerecloths 
 at each angle of Tyburn gallows till sunset, when they were taken down and be- 
 headed, and the bodies buried under the gallows, the heads being set on West- 
 minster Hall; 1660-62, five persons who had signed the death-warrant of Charles 
 I. ; 1684, Sir Thomas Armstrong (Rye House Plot) ; 1705, John Smith, a burglar, 
 having hung above a quarter of an hour, when a reprieve arrived, he was cut 
 down, and beinj* let blood, came to himself (Hatton, 1708). 1724, Jack Sheppard, 
 housebreaker ; 1725, Jonathan Wild, thief and thief-taker; 1726, Catherine Hayes, 
 for the murder of her husband : she was burnt alive, for the indignant mob would 
 not suffer the hangman to strangle her. as usual, before the fire was kindled. 1760, 
 Earl Ferrers, for the murder of his steward : he rode from the Tower, wearing 
 his wedding-clothes, in his landau drawn by six horses; he was indulged with a 
 silken rope, and "the drop" \\as first used instead of the cart ; the executioners 
 fought for the rope, and the mob tore the black cloth from the scaffold as relics ; 
 the landau stood in a coach-house at Acton until it fell to pieces; and the bill for 
 the silken rope has been preserved. 1 767, Mrs. Brownrigg, tor murder ; 1774, John 
 Rann (Sixteen-Stringed Jack;, highwayman ; 1775, the two Perraus, for forgery; 
 1777, Rev. Dr. Dodd, forgery; 1779, Rev. James Hackman, assassination of Miss 
 Reay: he was taken from Newgate in a mourning-coach. 1783, Ryland, the en- 
 graver, for forgery. 1783, John Austin, the last person executed at Tyburn. 
 
 The road between St. Giles's Pound and Tyburn gallows was first 
 called Tyburn-road, now Ox ford- street ; the lane leading from which 
 to Piccadilly was called Tyburn-lane, now Park-lane. The original 
 Turnpike-gate stood close to St. Giles's Pound ; then at Tyburn, re- 
 moved in 1825 ; then at Winchester-row ; next at Pine-apple-place ; and 
 next at Kilburn. Strange have been the mutations in which the rural Tv- 
 bourn " welled forth away" through pleasant fields to the Town, there 
 became linked with the crimes of centuries, and lost in a murky sewer ; 
 but left its name to Tyburnia, the newly-built city of palaces north- 
 west of Hyde Park. (See PADDINGTON, page 563.) " 
 
VAUXHALL GARDENS. 745 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF LONDON (THE), 
 
 Somerset House, was instituted Nov. 28, 1836, for " rendering acade- 
 mical honours accessible, without distinction, to every class and every 
 denomination." The University consists of a chancellor, vice-chancel- 
 lor, and senate ; and graduates. It is solely an examining body, and 
 confers degrees on the graduates of University College and King's 
 College, London ; and the colleges not belonging to the other univer- 
 sities ; besides all the medical schools in the empire, and most of the 
 colleges of the Roman Catholics, Baptists, Independents, and Wes- 
 leyaris. The degrees are conferred, and the honours bestowed, in 
 public; and the senate first met for this purpose on May 1, 1850, in 
 the large hall of King's College, Somerset House ; the Earl of Burling- 
 ton, Chancellor of the University, presiding. 
 
 VAUXHALL GARDENS, 
 
 rhe oldest existing place of public amusement in the metropolis, is 
 named from its site in the manor of Fulke's Hall, or Faukeshall, from 
 Fulke de Breaute', its possessor temp. King John. The manor-house, 
 subsequently called Copped or Copt Hall, was the prison-house of Ara- 
 aella Stuart. The tradition that it belonged to Guido or Guy Fawkes 
 >nly rests upon the coincidence of names. The estate, in the manors of 
 Lambeth and Kennington, belonged to the family of Fauxe, or Vaux, in 
 ;he reigns of Elizabeth and James I. ; and in 1615 it was held by Jane 
 Vaux, widow, erroneously supposed the relict of Guy Fawkes. The con- 
 spirators, however, hired a house at Lambeth for storing their powder, 
 ;c., in 1601, which has strengthened the tradition : this house was burnt 
 wn by accident in 1635; its site is uncertain. 
 
 Vauxhall Gardens were first laid out about 1661. Evelyn records : 
 2 July, 1661, I went to see the New Spring Gardens* at Lambeth, a 
 etty contrived plantation ;" and Baltshazar Monconys, early in the 
 ign of Charles II., describes the Gardens well frequented in 1663. 
 Sir Samuel Morland "built a fine room at Vaux-hall anno 1667, the inside 
 of looking-glass, and fountains very pleasant to behold, which is much visited 
 strangers; it stands in the middle of the Garden." (Mr. Bray thought this 
 >m to have been erected by Morland for the entertainment of Charles II. when 
 visited this place with his ladies.) " Without the New Spring Garden is the 
 nainder of a kind of horn-work, belonging to the lines of communication made 
 iut 1643-4." (Aubrey's Surrey, vol. i. pp. 12, 13.) 
 
 A large mound of earth, said to have been thrown up for defence, 
 11 remains near the firework -shed. North of the Gardens is believed 
 have stood a Roman fort or camp ; and Roman pottery has been 
 md here. Canute's Trench has been traced through the Gardens 
 its influx into the Thames (Maitland). 
 Morland's room is believed to have stood where the or- 
 estra was afterwards built; and in 1794 a leaden pump 
 is removed bearing Sir Samuel's mark : 
 
 In a plan dated 1681 the place is named Spring Garden, and " marked 
 planted with trees and laid out in walks." Pepys's Diary has en- 
 ies in 1665-8 of his visits to Fox-hall and the Spring Garden ; and 
 " the humours of the citizens, pulling off cherries, and God knows 
 lat ;" "to hear the nightingale and the birds, and here fiddlers, and 
 ere a harp, and here a Jew's trump ; and here laughing, and there 
 e people walking, is mighty diverting." Pepys also tells of " supper 
 arbour," ladies walking " with their masks on," &c. ; and 
 
 * To distinguish it from Spring Garden, Charing Cross (see page 678). 
 
746 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " July 27, 1688. So over the water, with my wife and Deb, and Mercer, to 
 Spring Garden, and there eat and walked; and observed how rude some of thej 
 young gallants of the town are become, to go into people's arbors where there are-] 
 not men, and almost force the women, which troubled me to see the confidence 
 of the vice of the age ; and so we away by water with much pleasure home." 
 
 "Wycherley refers to a cheesecake and a syllabub at New Spring 
 Garden; and Tom Brown (in 1700) speaks of the close walks, and of 
 the little wildernesses, which "are so intricate, that the most expe-j 
 rienced mothers have often lost themselves in looking for their daujjh-j 
 ters." And in the Spectator, No. 383 (May 20, 1712)/Addison describes 
 his going with Sir Roger de Coverley on the water from the Temple j 
 Stairs to Spring Garden, " which is exquisitely pleasant at this time of j 
 year :" a mask tapped Sir Roger upon the shoulder, and invited him to 
 drink a bottle of mead with her. The usual supper of that period 
 was " a glass of Burton ale, and a slice of hung beef." 
 
 In 1728, Spring Gardens were leased by Elizabeth Masters, for 30 
 years, to Jonathan Tyers, of Denbies, Surrey, at the yearly rent of 250Z. 
 Tyers's lease enumerates the Dark Room, Ham Room, Milk-house, 
 Pantry-room; and among the arbours, covered and paved with tiles,] 
 are the names of Checker, King's Head, Dragon, Oak, Royal Arbour, 
 York, Queen's Head, Royal George, Ship, Globe, Phoenix, Swan, Eagle, 
 and the Barge. The hatch at the Water-gate is of Tyers's time. 
 
 The Gardens were opened by Tyers, June 7, 1732, with a Ridotto al 
 fresco. Frederick Prince of Wales was present, and the company wore] 
 masks, dominoes, and lawyers' gowns. The admission was one guinea :j 
 400 persons were present ; and there were 100 Foot-Guards posted roundj 
 the Gardens to keep order. The admission-ticket was designed by the 
 younger Laguerre. 
 
 The author of A Touch at the Times, or a Trip to Vauxhall, 1737, 
 " Sail'd triumphant on the liquid wav, 
 To hear the fiddlers of Spring Garden play." 
 
 Tyers set up an organ in the orchestra ; and in the garden, in 1738, 
 a fine statue of Handel, as Orpheus playing a lyre, by Roubiliac,his first] 
 \rork in England.* Here was also a statue of Milton, by RoubiliacJ 
 cast in lead, and painted stone-colour. The season of 1739 was for three ; 
 months, and the admission only by silver tickets, at 25s. each, to admit] 
 two persons. These silver tickets were struck after designs by Ho| 
 garth : the obverse bore the number, name of the holder, and date jj 
 and the reverse a figure of Euterpe, Erato, or Thalia. 
 
 Hogarth, who was then lodging in Lambeth-terrace,f suggested to 
 Tyers the embellishment of the Gardens with paintings ; in acknowr* 
 ledgment of which Tyers presented Hogarth with a Gold Ticket of per- 1 
 petual admission : it bears on its obverse, " Hogarth," and beneath it, 
 "In perpetuam beneficii memoriam ;" on the reverse are two figures 
 surrounded with the motto, "Virtus voluptas felices una." This ticket,' 
 (for the admission of six persons or "one coach") was last used in the 
 season of 1836 : it is now possessed by Mr. Frederick Gye, jun., whdn 
 purchased it for 20Z. Hogarth designed for the pavilions in the (Jarden* 
 the Four Parts of the Day, which Hayman copied; besides other pic- 
 tures. In 1745, Tyers added vocal to his instrumental music, and Dr. 
 Arne composed ballads, duets, &c. ; Mrs. Arne, Lowe, and the elder 
 Reinhold were singers. 
 
 In England's Gazetteer, 1751, the entertainments are described as 
 " the sweet song of numbers of nightingales, in concert with the best 
 
 * This statue was sold, in 1854, to the Sacred Harmonic Society for 200*., and 
 is now in their committee-room at Exeter Hall, Strand. 
 
 t The house which Hogarth occupied is still shown ; and a vine is pointed out 
 which he planted. Allan Cunningham, Lives of British Painters, Sfc., 1829. 
 
VAUXHALL GARDENS. 747 
 
 band of musick in England. Here are fine pavilions, shady groves, and 
 most delightful walks illuminated with above 1000 lamps." 
 
 " At Vauxhall the artificial ruins are repaired ; the cascade is made to spout 
 with several additional streams of block-tin ; and they have touched up all the 
 pictures which were damaged last season by the fingering of those curious con- 
 noisseurs who could not be satisfied without feeling whether the figures were 
 alive." Connoisseur, May 15, 1755. 
 
 Goldsmith thus describes the Vauxhall of about 1760 : 
 
 "The illuminations began before we arrived; and I must confess that upon 
 entering the Gardens I found every sense overpaid with more than expected 
 pleasure: the lights every where glimmering through scarcely moving trees; 
 the full-bodied concert bursting on the stillness of night; the natural concert of 
 the birds in the more retired part of the grove, vicing with that which was formed 
 by art; the company gaily dressed, looking satisfied, and the tables spread with 
 various delicacies, all conspired to fill my imagination with the visionary happi- 
 ness of the Arabian lawgiver, and lifted me into an ecstasy of admiration. ' Head 
 of Confucius,' cried I to my friend, ' this is fine! This unites rural beauty \vith 
 courtly magnificence." Citizen of the World, Letter Ixxi. 
 
 " The last gay picture in Goldsmith's life is of himself and Sir Joshua (Rey- 
 nolds) at Vauxhall. And not the least memorable figures in that sauntering 
 crowd, though it numbered princes and ambassadors then ; and on its tide and 
 torrent of fashion floated all the beauty of the time; and through its lighted 
 avenues of trees glided cabinet ministers and their daughters, royal dukes and 
 their wives, agreeable 'young ladies and gentlemen of eighty-two,' and all the 
 red-heeled macaronies, were those of the President and the Ancient History 
 Professor of the Royal Academy." Forster's Goldsmith, p. 676. 
 
 Miss Burney also lays scenes of her Evelina and Cecilia in Vauxhall 
 Gardens. Tyers subsequently bought the property : he died in 1767 : 
 "so great was the delight he took in this place, that, possessing his 
 iculties to the last, he caused himself to be carried into the Gardens a 
 sw hours before his death, to take a last look at them." They were 
 died Spring Garden until 1785 ; and the license, every season, is to 
 is day obtained for " Spring Garden, Vauxhall." The property re- 
 lained" with Tyers's family until it was sold in 1822, for 28,OOOZ., to 
 ish, Gye, and Hughes (the London Wine Company), who retained it 
 11 1840. The most profitable season was in 1823; 133,279 visitors, 
 ),590Z. receipts : the greatest number of persons in one night was 
 Lug. 2, 1833, the second night of the revival of the shilling admission, 
 hen 20,137 persons paid for admission. In July 1841, the estate (about 
 L acres), with its buildings, timber, covered walks, &c., was offered 
 >r sale by auction, but bought in at 20,200/. The estate is held under 
 \e Duchy of Cornwall; and subject only to an annual quit-rent of 
 '. 3s. 7d., and 5* a year for tithe. 
 
 The Gardens are well described in the Ambulator, 12th edition, 1820 ; 
 rhere the paintings in the supper-pavilions, by Hogarth and Hayman, 
 re enumerated. The Gardens have since been rented by various entre- 
 reneurs. Their arrangement has been little altered from Tyers's plan, 
 
 may be seen by the old views ; one of the earliest, attached to A 
 J rip to Vauxhall, 1737. Tyers's rustic music-house was in 1758 re- 
 laced by a Gothic orchestra, built by a carpenter named Maidman, 
 rith niches, ornaments, &c. in compo'. The general plan is a quad- 
 angular grove, a colonnade, two semicircular sweeps of pavilions, a 
 otunda, detached theatre, &c. ; octagon temples, set scenes, machinery, 
 sulpture, a firework tower, myriads of cut-glass lamps, &c. The ear- 
 est lamps resembled the street-lamps of the last century. 
 
 A Vauxhall supper usually consisted of 
 
 " Lilliput chickens boil'd ; 
 Bucellas warm, from Vauxhall ice, 
 And hams that flit in airy slice. 
 
 And salads scarcely soil'd." Land. Mag. Sept. 1824. 
 
748 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 To which should be added arrack-punch and " wax-lights." The old 
 punch-bowls, plates, and mugs, bore a representation of the orchestra. 
 
 In 1827 was produced in the Gardens, by Mr. Farley, of Covent 
 Garden Theatre, a representation of the Battle of Waterloo, with set 
 scenes of La Belle Alliance, the wood and chateau of Hougomont ; also, 
 horse and foot soldiers, artillery, ammunition-wagons, &c. 
 
 Vauxhall Gardens were open from 1732 to 1840 without intermis- 
 sion ; in the latter year they were closed ; but were opened in 1841 by) 
 Mitchell and Andrews, of Bond-street, with great success, and this year 
 six summer fetes were got up here by Bunn. The price of admission 
 to the gardens was 1*. until 1792, except on particular nights, as on the 
 celebration of the fiftieth anniversary, when it was 10*. 6d. After 1792' 
 the admission was raised to 2*., including tea and coffee ; in 1809 toi 
 3s. 6d.: in 1850 reduced to 1*. ; and since various. At the Vittoria Fete, 
 July 1814 (admission one guinea), 1350 visitors dined in the rotunda, 
 the Duke of York presiding ; there were also present the Dukes of 
 Clarence, Kent, Sussex, and Gloucester; the Princess of Wales, and 
 the Duchess of York. The fireworks were by Colonel Congreve. 
 
 At the sale of the movable property, Oct. 1841, twenty-four pictures by Ho- 
 garth and Hayman produced but small sums : they had mostly been upon the 
 premises since 1742 ; the canvass was nailed to hoards, and much obscured by dirt.i 
 By Hogarth : Drunken Man, 41. 4s.; a Woman pulling out an Old Man's grey- 
 hairs, 31. 3s. ; Jobson and Nell in the Devil to pay, 41. 4s. ; the Happy Family, 
 31. 15*.; Children at Play, 41. Us. 6d. By Hayman: Children Bird's-nesting, 
 51. 10s ; Minstrpls, 31 ; the Enraged Husband, 41. 4s. ; the Bridal Day, C/. 6s. ; 
 Blindman's Buff, 31. 8s.; Prince Henry and Falstaff, 71. ; Scene from the Rake's 
 Progress, 91. 15*.; Merry-making, II. 12s.; the Jealous Husband, 41. ; Card-party, 
 61. ; Children's Party, 41. 15*.; Battledore and Shuttlecock, 11. 10*. ; the Doctor^ 
 41. 14*. 6d. ; Cherry-bib. 21. 15*.; the Storming of Seringapatam, 81. 10*.; Nep- 
 tune and Britannia, xl. 15*. Four busts of Simpson, the celebrated Master of the 
 Ceremonies, were sold for 10*. ; and a bust of his royal shipmate, William IV., 19*. 
 
 Music. Among the Vauxhall composers were Arne, Boyce, Carter, 
 Mountain, Hook (organist upwards of 40 years), and Signor Storace. 
 Male singers: Beard, Lowe, Webb, Dignum, Vernon, Jncledon, Bra- 
 ham, Pyne, Sinclair, Tinney, Robinson, Bedford, and Sharp. Females: 
 Miss Brent, Mrs. Wrighten, Mrs. Weischel (mother of Mrs. Billington), 
 Mrs. Mountain, Signora Storace, Mrs. Crouch, Mrs. Bland, Miss Tryrer 
 (afterwards Mrs. Liston), Miss Graddon, Miss Love, Miss Tunstall, &c. 
 Italian operas were performed here in 1829. The band were the last 
 to wear the semicircular or cocked hat : 
 
 " By that high dome that trembling glows 
 With lamps, cock'd hats, and shiv'ring bows, 
 
 How many hearts are shook ! 
 A feather'd chorister is there, 
 Warbling some tender, grove-like air, 
 Compos'd by Mr. Hook." London Magazine, Sept. 1824. f 
 
 Fireworks were first occasionally exhibited at Vauxhall in 3798. Itf 
 1802 the first Balloon ascent took place here, by Garnerin and two 
 companions. In 1836 Green ascended in his new " Vauxhall Balloon," 
 constructed in the Gardens (see p. 23). Mr. John Fillinham, of Wai- 
 worth, possesses a large collection of Vauxhall bills of entertainment, 
 engravings, and other interesting records of the Gardens. 
 
 WALBROOK, 
 
 A narrow street named from the stream or brook which, rising on 
 the north of Moorfields, entered the City through the walls, between 
 Bishopsgate and Moorgate, and proceeded nearly along the line of the 
 new street of that name; thence, according to Stow, across Lothbury, 
 beneath the kitchen of Grocers' Hall and St. Mildred's Church, through 
 
WAPPING. 749 
 
 Bucklersbury, past the sign of the " Old Barge" (from Thames barges 
 being rowed up there); and thence through the present Walbrook- 
 street, under which it still runs as a sewer, and discharges itself, by 
 a part of Elbow-lane, down Greenwich-lane, into the Thames at Dow- 
 gate. The Walbrook was crossed by a bridge connecting Budge-row 
 and Cannon-street, and several other bridges, but was vaulted over 
 with brick, and its banks built upon, long since; so that in Stovv's 
 time the course of Walbrook was " hidden under ground, and thereby 
 hardly known. ' The brook was navigable not merely to Bucklersbury 
 but as far as Coleman-street, where a Roman boat-hook has been found; 
 and with it was found a coin of Alectus, who ruled in Britain towards 
 the close of the third century. In forming Prince's- street, the work- 
 men came upon the course of the brook, which the Romans had em- 
 banked with wooden piles ; and the bed was thickly strewn wir,h coins, 
 brass scales, styli, knives, tools, pottery, &c. In Walbrook was one of 
 ;he three taverns in London licensed to sell sweet wines in the reign of 
 Edward III. Walbrook gives name to the ward: at its north-east 
 corner is St. Stephen's Church, described at page 160. Lower down, 
 upon the brook, at Dowgate-hill, was the church of Allhallows the 
 L,ess, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt; but its burial- 
 ground, with a solitary altar- tomb, remains. Nearly opposite London 
 Stone, in June 1852, was unearthed part of the cloister of the church 
 of St. Mary Bothaw, which stood near Walbrook bank at Dowgate, 
 ind was named Boat-haw from being near a yard where boat-building 
 was carried on : here was interred Fitzalwin, first Mayor of London. 
 
 WAPPING, 
 
 A hamlet of Stepney, is now a long street extending from Lower East 
 Smithfield, on the north bank of the Thames, to New Crane. It was 
 commenced building in 1571, to secure the manor from the depredations 
 
 the river, which made the whole site a great wash ; the commis- 
 soners of sewers rightly thinking that " the tenants would not fail 
 >eing attentive to their lives and property." Stow calls it " Wapping 
 n the Wose," or Wash. 
 
 Here was Execution Dock, " the usual place for hanging of pirates and sea- 
 rovers, at the low-water mark, and there to remain till three tides had over- 
 lowed them ; but since the gallows being after removed farther off, a continual 
 street or filihy strait passage, with alleys of small tenements or cottages built, 
 nhabited by sailors' victuallers, along by the river of Thames almost to Rad- 
 clifTe, a good mile from the Tower." Stow. 
 
 To Wapping, in 1689, Lord Chancellor Jefferies fled, disguised as a 
 sailor, but was there identified in a public-house by a scrivener whom 
 le had terrified when he was Lord Chief Justice. Joseph Ames, author 
 of the Typographical Antiquities, F.R.S., and Secretary to the Society 
 of Antiquaries, was a ship-chandler at Wapping, where he died in 1758 : 
 he was a person of vast application and industry in collecting old 
 printed books, prints, and other curiosities, both natural and artificial" 
 Cole). John Day, with whom originated "Fairlop Fair," in Hainault 
 Forest, was a block and pump maker at Wapping. Here the first 
 Fuchsia brought to England from the West Indies, being seen by Mr. 
 Lee, the nurseryman, became, in the next flowering season, the parent 
 of 300 fuchsia-plants, which Lee sold at one guinea each. 
 
 Wapping is noted, as in Stow's time, for its nautical signs, its ship 
 and boat builders, rope-makers, biscuit-bakers and provision -dealers; 
 mast, oar, and block makers ; ship-chandlers and sail-makers : and the 
 name Wapping was probably derived from the ship's rope called a wapp ; 
 or from tvapin-schaw, a periodical exhibition of arms, which may for- 
 merly have been held upon this open ground. 
 
750 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Among the thirty-six taverns and public-houses in Wapping High-street and 
 Wapping Wall, are the signs of the Ship and Pilot, Ship and Star, Ship and 
 Punch-bowl, Union Flag and Punch-bowl, the Gun, North American Sailor, 
 Golden Anchor, Anchor and Hope, the Ship, Town of Ramsgate, Queen's Land- 
 ing, Ship and Whale, the Three Mariners, and the Prospect of Whitby. 
 
 Between Nos. 224 and 225 is the entrance to the THAMES TCXXEL 
 (see p. 712) ; and between 288 and 304 are Wapping Old Stairs : 
 
 " Your Molly has always been true, she declares, 
 
 Since last time we parted at Wapping Old Siairs." Dibdin's Waterman. 
 
 Many of the wood-built wharf and house fronts towards the river 
 are quaint and old. 
 
 WATER-SUPPLY OF LONDON. 
 
 The earliest water-supply was derived from the Thames, by direct 
 carriage, or from the bournes or streams which flowed through the 
 town, but are now covered sewers. The water was laid from these 
 springs in leaden pipes, as early as the reign of Henry III., to Cox- 
 IUITS in various parts of the town (see p. 228), whence it was conveyed 
 in buckets and carts : from Tyburn in 1236 ; from Highbury in 1438 ; 
 from Hackney in 1535; from Hampstead in 1543; and from Hoxton in 
 1546. In 1581, Morice threw a jet of the Thames over old St. Magnus 1 
 steeple, before which " no such thing was known in England as this 
 raising of water." Next year were formed London Bridge Water- 
 works, described at page 55. In 1613 was opened the NEW RIVEB 
 (see page 550), when commenced the modern systems of supply, now 
 executed by seven companies. 
 
 1. The NEW RIVER COMPANY (see page 550). 
 
 2. The EAST LOXDOX WATER- WORKS, supplied from the river Lea, 
 near Old Ford, on each side of which are two reservoirs, with an aque- 
 duct or conduit under the river to connect them all. " The pressure 
 requisite to drive the water through the mains in the district is given 
 by a column of water in a vertical iron stand-pipe, open at the top, 
 about 130 feet high, 5 feet in diameter at the bottom, and 3 feet 6 in. 
 at the top; the water being kept at a suitable level in the pipe by the 
 action of the pumps in the steam-engine, the first Cornish engine used 
 for other than mining purposes." Weale's London, p. 852. 
 
 3. The GRAND JUNCTIOX WATER-WORKS, first projected in 1798, 
 works commenced 1811, and first supplied from the rivers Colne and 
 Brent, and the Ruislip springs, by way of the Paddington Canal ; but 
 since 1820 supplied from the Thames. The present works are above 
 Kew Bridge, where the water is pumped from the middle of the river 
 to the filter-beds. The great Cornish steam-engine is the largest of the 
 kind ever made: it raises 3257 gallons of water per minute in a stand- 
 pipe nearly 220 feet high : and the main which brings the water to Lon- 
 don is between 6 and 7 miles in length, and 30 inches diameter. The 
 Company's storing-reservoir on Camden Hill, Bayswater, contain* 
 6,000,000 gallons. 
 
 4. The WEST MIDDLESEX WATER- WORKS, commenced in 1806, 
 puiip their water from the Thames at Barnes into two subsiding rer< 
 servoirs of 16 acres area, whence the water is forced through a main- 
 pipe under the Thames, Hammersmith, and thence to the elevated 
 reservoirs, one of which, on Primrose Hill, contains 4,750,000 gallons:- 
 some of the houses supplied by this Company are ten miles from thei 
 spot whence the water is forced. 
 
 5. The CHELSEA WATER-WORKS were originally founded in 1724, 
 and early supplied the palace and government-offices. Their present' 
 works, 20 acres, are north-east of Chelsea Reach; where the water, 
 drawn from the bed of the Thames, is pumped into subsiding reser- 
 
WATER-SUPPL Y. 751 
 
 voirs, and then into filter-beds : the Company have also two elevated 
 reservoirs in the Green Park and Hyde Park. 
 
 6. The SOUTHWARK AND VAUXHALL WATER-WORKS, in Battersea 
 Fields, are supplied from the Thames, and have two depositing reser- 
 voirs of 32,000,000 gallons, and two filtering reservoirs of 11,000,000 
 gallons : the two stand-pipes are each 150 feet high. Until the destruc- 
 tion of Old London Bridge, Southwark was supplied with water from 
 ponds at St. Mary Overie s, and works under one of the southern arches 
 of the bridge. This Company, with the Grand Junction, and West 
 Middlesex, have also Works at Hampton, opened in 1855. 
 
 7. The LAMBETH WATER-WORKS are described at page 439. 
 Daily average supply of water by the above Companies in 1853 : 
 
 Gallons. Houses. 
 
 New River 17)637,396 .... 90,510 
 
 East London ..... 11,9^0,989 .... 63,142 
 
 Grand Junction .... 5,115,675 .... 10,019 
 
 West Middlesex .... 5,000,606 .... 34,376 
 
 Chelsea 5,632,000 .... 22,725 
 
 Southwark and Vauxhall . . 8,501,837 .... 40,046 
 
 Lambeth 5,6u3,000 .... 25,583 
 
 59,381,503 286,401 
 
 The Hampstead Water-works, first established under 35 Henry VIIF. 
 ap. 10, supply Kentish Town and Camden Town from springs and wells. 
 
 The daily supply of water to the metropolis, when 44,000,000 gallons, 
 r as nearly twice as much as would fill St. Paul's Cathedral ; " a quali- 
 ty which, large as it is, could be delivered in twenty-four hours by a 
 rook nine feet wide and three feet deep, running at the rate of three 
 eet per second, or little more than two miles per hour. "' * * If 
 le mains (supply-pipes) were allowed to flow into the area of St. James's 
 'ark, they would in the course of the twenty-four hours flood its en- 
 re space with a depth of 30 inches of water ; and the whole annual 
 upply would be quite sufficient to submerge the City (one mile square) 
 feet." Quarterly Review, No. cxc. 
 
 Five of the seven Companies draw their water from the Thames, 
 adjacent to the outpouring of all the common-sewers ;" and although 
 le removal of the works from the town, higher up the stream, with 
 ubsidence and filtration, have modified the evil, the best water, and the 
 est means of supply, remain undecided. Artesian Wells, sunk through 
 le London clay into the chalk, produce excellent water, but fail in 
 Iry weather, and are affected if a deeper well be sunk in the neigh- 
 burhood. (See ARTESIAN WELLS, p. 20.) The deepest Well in Lon- 
 on, 522 ft., is stated to be that at Combe and Co.'s brewery, Long 
 cre. The well on the site of the Excise Office is ,,00 feet. The Builder. 
 
 Within the Bank of England an Artesian well was completed in 1852 : 
 is 380 feet deep, 100 feet being in the chalk : the water is raised to 
 anks of 50,000 gallons, in the roof, by the same steam-engine that 
 rints the bank-notes, &c. With these tanks is connected a foun- 
 lin, which throws a column of water 30 feet high, amongst the branches 
 f two df the finest lime-trees in London.* 
 
 The YORK BUILDINGS WATER- WORKS, formed in 1691, leased to the 
 ew River Company in 1818, and abolished 1829, are described at p. 694. 
 
 * The fountain is placed on the site of the churchyard of St. Christopher-le- 
 ;ocks. The last funeral which took place here was that of Jenkins, a Bank clerk, 
 ho was 7i feet in height, and his outer coffin was 8 feet in length : he was per- 
 litted to be buried within the walls of the Bank, to prevent the possibility of 
 sinterment, on account of his unusual height. 
 
752 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 WATLING-STREET, 
 
 Commencing at the north-east corner of St. Paul's-churchyard, and 
 formerly extending through Budge-row and Cannon-street, is consi- 
 dered to have been the principal street of Roman London, and " one of ; 
 the four grand Roman ways in Britain ;"* as well as a British road 
 before the arrival of the Romans : " with the Britons it was a forest- 
 lane or trackway; with the Romans 'it became a stratum, street, or 
 raised road, constructed according to their well-known manners" 
 (A. J. Kempe, Archceologia, xxvi. 467). This is corroborated bv the 
 discovery of British remains on the line, in Cannon-street. The' 
 Romans made it part of their grand route from the point of their 
 invasion, through a portion of Kent and the north-eastern corner of] 
 Surrey, and thence from Stoney;-street over the Thames to Dowgate, 
 north of the river, by the present Watling-street, to Alders^ate; where, 
 quitting the City, it ran along Gos well-street to the west of Islington, 
 through Hagbush-lane (the road in part remains), to Verulamium, or 
 St. Alban's. Dr. Stukeley, however, maintains that the old Watling- 
 street did not enter London, but, in its course from Verulam, crossed 
 the Oxford-road at Tyburn, and thence ran over part of Hyde Park,* 
 and by May Fair through St. James's Park, to the Wool-staple at West- 
 minster, and crossed the Thames by Stanegate-ferry, across St. George's) 
 Fields, and south of the Lock Hospital, Kent-street, to Deptford and 
 Blackheath. Stukeley adds : " as London increased, passengers went 
 through the City by Cannon-street, Watling-street, and Holborn, this 
 being a vicinal branch of Watling-street." Wren, however, considers 
 it to have been the centre or Praetorian way of the old Roman station;' 
 the principal gate being at Eastcheap. In 1853, in excavating Budge- 
 row, there was discovered a fragment of Roman wall. 
 
 " Watling-street crossed the Walbrook by a bridge at the junction oT Can- 
 non-street and Budge- row; and then branching off at Lone on Stone, in Cannon- 
 strest, ran along the Langbourne to Aldgate ; whilst a smaller road ran from the! 
 ferry at Dowgate towards Cripplegate, one of the three City gate* during the Ro- 
 man rule Enough of remains of houses have been found in Budge row andj 
 Watling-street to show that the rudiments of a street, in continuation of the' 
 line from A'dgate, existed on the west side of the brook." Xafional Misrell. No. 6. 
 
 This street, stays Leland, was formerly called Atheling (or Nolle) 
 street, from being near the Old Change (see page 283), where the Mint 
 formerly was; and afterwards, corruptlv, Watheling and Wat/ing 
 street: 'but from this Stow dissents. By another, Watling is traced to 
 the ancient British words, gwaith, work, and lea, legion, whence 
 gicaith-lea, i.e. legion- work (Gent. Mag. 1796). Dr. Jamieson states 
 it to have been " called by the Romans Via Laciea (Milky Way), front; 
 its fancied resemblance to abroad street, or causeway", bern_ 
 were paved with stars." Moxon, in his Tutor to Astronomy, 1670, 
 describing the Milky Way, observes : " some, in a sporting manner, call, 
 it Watling-street; but why thev call it so I cannot tell, except it be in 
 regard to the narrowness ft seemeth to have." The south side has been, 
 almost entirely taken down and rebuilt ; and the narrowness of Watling- 
 street has disappeared in the fine broad thoroughfare of Cannon-; 
 street West. Watling-street has been, since Stow's time, inhabited by 
 " wealthy drapers, retailers of woollen cloths, both broad and narrow, 
 of all sorts." Hatton describes it as " much inhabited by wholesale 
 grocers, tobacconists, and other great dealers." Several of the new 
 buildings on the south side of Cannon-street are the mansion-like 
 warehouses of wholesale stationers. 
 
 * The Watling-street Thistle (Eryngium campesfre) is named from this ancient 
 ro-.d being its only known habitat in England. Baker's Northants. Gloss, ii. 386. 
 
WAX-WORK SHOWS. 753 
 
 WAX-WORK SHOWS. 
 
 The oldest Exhibition of Wax-work in England of which we have 
 .any record was that at Westminster Abbey, called "the Play of the 
 Dead Volks," and "the Ragged Regiment." Of this collection we find 
 the following account in a description of the Abbey, " its monuments 
 and curiosities," " printed for J. Newbery, at the Bible and Sun, in St. 
 Paul's Churchyard, 1754:" 
 
 " Over this chapel (Islip, otherwise St.Erasmus) is a chantry in -which are two 
 large wainscot presses full of the effigies of princesand others of high quality, buried 
 in this Abbey. These effigies resembled the deceased as near as possible, and 
 were wont to be exposed at the funerals of our princes and other great personages 
 4n open chariots, with their proper ensigns of royalty or honour appended. Those 
 that are here laid up are in a sad mangled condition ; some stripped, and others 
 in tattered robes, but all maimed or broken. The most ancient are the least in- 
 jured, by which it would seem as if the costliness of their clothes had occasioned 
 this ravage; for the robes of Edward VI., which were once of crimson velvet, but 
 'now appear like leather, are left entire; but those of Q. Elizabeth and K. James 
 the First are entirely stript, as are all the rest, of every thing of value. In two 
 .handsome wainscot presses are the effigies of K. William and Q Mary, and Q. 
 Anne, in good condition, and greatly admired by every eye that beholds them." 
 : The figure of Cromwell is not here mentioned; but in the account of his lying- 
 in-state, the effigies is described as made to the life, in wax, apparelled in velvet, 
 gold lace, and ermine. This effigies was laid upon the bed-of-state, and carried 
 .upon the hearse in the funeral procession ; both were then deposited in West- 
 minster Abbey : but at the Restoration, the hearse was broken in pieces, and the 
 (effigies was destroyed after hanging from a window at Whitehall. 
 
 In the Picture of London, 1806, the collection is described as " a 
 .variety of figures in wax, in cases with glass doors, which are shown as 
 curious to the stranger;" their exhibition was continued until 1839. 
 
 The NEW EXCHANGE, Strand, was also noted for its Wax- work shows. 
 
 MRS. SALMON'S WAX-WORK, in Fleet-street, is described at p. 308. 
 The minor exhibitions of wax-work are too numerous to mention ; but 
 we may instance a collection of figures shown at the Queen's Bazaar, 
 Oxford-street, in 1830 ; and Dubourg's Mechanical Exhibition, in Wind- 
 mill-street, Haymarket ; as admirable specimens of foreign ingenuity 
 in wax-modelling. To these may be added the lifelike and spirited 
 figures of costumed natives of Mexico, and American Indians, modelled 
 in wax with surprising minuteness and artistic feeling, both in the 
 position and grouping, varied expression, and anatomical development : 
 these figures, at the Great Exhibition of 1851, gained for their artist, 
 N. Montanari, a prize medal. 
 
 MADAME TUSSAUD AND SON'S Collection, Baker-street, Portman- 
 square, is stated to be the oldest exhibition in Europe. It was commenced 
 on the Boulevard du Temple at Paris in 1780, and was first shown in 
 London, at the Lyceum, Strand, in 1802. It now consists of upwards of 
 200 figures in wax, in the costume of their time, and several in the dresses 
 which they actually wore ; besides a large collection of paintings and 
 sculpture, arranged in superb saloons, the largest 240 feet by 49 feet. 
 
 Madame Tussaudwas born at Berne, in Switzerland, in 1760. When a child she 
 was taught to model figures in wax, by her uncle M. Curtius, at whose house 
 she often dined with Voltaire, Rousseau, Dr. Franklin, Mirabeau, and La Fayette, 
 of whose heads she took casts. She taught drawing and modelling to the Princess 
 Elizabeth, and many of the French noblesse, just before the Revolution of 1789. 
 She also modelled in wax Robespierre, Marat, and Danton ; and often took models 
 of heads severed on the scaffold. Thus she commenced her collection of royalists, 
 revolutionists, generals, authors and men of science, and distinguished ladies; 
 with which she came to London in 1802. She has left her Memoirs and Reminis- 
 cences, published in 1838; a very curious narrative of the old French Revolution, 
 1 1 and its leading characters en costume. Madame Tussaud died in London, 15 April 
 1850, aged 90 ; her mother lived to the same age, her grandmother to 104, andher 
 I great-grandmother to 111. 
 
 c c c 
 
754 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Tussaud Collection not only contains fine specimens of modelling 
 in wax, but a curious assemblage of costume and personal decoration, 
 memorials of celebrated characters, historical groups, &c. Among the 
 most noteworthy are the costumed recumbent effigies of the Duke of 
 Wellington ; a group of Henry VIII. and his six queens ; Edward VI. 
 and Henry VII.; Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and the royal 
 children ; Alexander Emperor of Russia, taken from life, in England, 
 in 1814 ; Napoleon Bonaparte, from life, in 1815 ; Louis XVI., his queen 
 and children, modelled from life, in 1790, and exhibited at La Petite 
 Trianon ; Lord Nelson, the cast taken from his face ; the beautiful 
 Madame PAmaranthe; Madame Tussaud, taken by herself; "William 
 Cobbett, very like; Madame Grisi as Lucrezia Borgia; Richard III., 
 from the portrait at Arundel Castle ; Voltaire (taken from life a few 
 months before his death), and a Coquette of the same period, both ad- 
 mirably characteristic; Loushkin, the Russian giant, 8ft. Sin. high; 
 Jenny Lind, very like ; Sir Walter Scott, modelled by Madame Tus- 
 saud, in Edinburgh, in 1828. 
 
 The Hall of Kings : the ceiling painted by ThornhilL Here are 
 portraits of Queen Victoria (Hayter); Prince Albert (Patten); George 
 IV. (Lawrence) ; "William IV. (Simpson) ; George III. and Queen Char- 
 lotte (Reynolds) ; George II. (Hudson); Louis XIV. (Parosel). Also 
 a group of figures of Queen Victoria (the throne from Carlton Palace) ; 
 the Queen Dowager, the Dukes of Sussex and Cambridge, and the 
 Princess Augusta, in coronation robes ; George III. taken from life in 
 1809; William IV. as Lord High Admiral. 
 
 In the richly-gilt chamber adjoining is George IV. in his coronation 
 robe, which, with two other robes, contain 567 feet of velvet and em- 
 broidery, and cost 18,000/. : the chair is the homage-chair used at the 
 coronation ; and the crown and sceptre, orb, orders, &c. are copies 
 from the actual regalia. Here is a large picture of the Birth of Venus, 
 by Boucher ; and of the Marriage of George IV., with many portraits. 
 
 Napoleon Relics. The camp-bedstead on which Napoleon died ; the 
 counterpane stained with his blood. Cloak worn at Marengo. Three 
 eagles taken at Waterloo. Cradle of the King of Rome. Bronze post- 
 humous cast of Napoleon, and hat worn by him. Whole-length portrait 
 of the Emperor, from Fontainebleau ; Marie Louise and Josephine, and 
 other portraits of the Bonaparte family. Bust of Napoleon, by Canova. 
 Isabey's Portrait Table of the Marshals. Napoleon's three Car- 
 riages : two from Waterloo, and a landau from St. Helena. His garden 
 chair and drawing-room chair. " The flag of Elba." Napoleon's sword, 
 diamond, tooth-brush, and table-knife ; dessert knife, fork, and spoons ; 
 coffee-cup ; a piece of willow-tree from St. Helena ; shoe-socks and 
 handkerchiefs, shirt, &c. Model figure of Napoleon in the clothes he 
 wore at Longwood ; and porcelain dessert-service used by him. Xa- 
 poleon's hair and tooth, &c. 
 
 Miscellaneous Relics. Nelson's Order of the Bath, and coat worn 
 at the Nile. Snuff-box of James II. Shirt worn by Henry IV. of 
 France when stabbed by Ravaillac (from Cardinal Mazarine's collection). 
 Coat and waistcoat of the Duke of Wellington, given to Haydon, the 
 painter. Model of Longwood, St. Helena. 
 
 The Chamber of Horrors contains portrait figures of the murderers 
 Rush and the Mannings, Good and Greenacre, Courvoisier and Gould, 
 Burke and Hare ; Fieschi and the infernal machine ; Marat, taken imme- 
 diately after his assassination ; heads of French Revolutionists ; the 
 decapitating knife and lunette ; model of the guillotine, &c. : this being 
 a class of models in which Madame Tussaud excelled in her youth. 
 
 Admission to the general collection, 1*. ; Chamber of Horrors, Qd. 
 
WESTMINSTER. 755 
 
 THE ORIENTAL AND TURKISH MUSEUM, St. George's Gallery, 
 Knightsbridge, opened 1854, contains models from Eastern life, with cos- 
 tumes, arms, and implements ; set scenes of Turkish baths, coffee-shops, 
 and bazaars ; a wedding, repasts, and councils ; the palace, the harem, and 
 
 Boggi, with wonderful variety of expression and character. Admission 
 1*. In the same gallery was formerly exhibited the Chinese Collection, 
 the figures of which were modelled in a kind of clay. 
 
 WESTMINSTER, 
 
 The general title of the western portion of the metropolis, but pro- 
 perly applying only to the City of Westminster, or "the parish of 
 St. Margaret, including the ecclesiastical district of St. John the Evan- 
 gelist; the other parishes constituting the Liberties of Westminster." 
 (Rev. M. E. C. Walcott.) It is named Irom the founding of St. Peter's 
 Minster on Thorney Island in the seventh century, which was called 
 West Minster to distinguish it from St. Paul's, the church of the East 
 Saxons : thus the town grew up around the monastery from which it 
 took its name. The island site, "formed by the rude channel worn by 
 the river tides," in a charter of King Offa, A.D. 785, is called " Torneia 
 in loco terribili, quod dicitur aet. Westmunster." King Edgar's charter 
 describes Westminster to extend from Fleet Ditch, next the City of 
 London, to the Military Way, now the Horseferry-road ; and from 
 Ty bourn and Holbourne to the Thames. Subsequently the boundary of 
 the City of London was extended from Fleet Ditch to Temple Bar. 
 
 Thorney Island, 470 yards long and 370 yards broad, was insulated 
 by a small stream, called'in modern times Long Ditch, which has been 
 traced from the Thames at Manchester-buildings, across King-street 
 by Gardener's-lane, by Prince 's-street (where it is the common sewer), 
 to Tothill-street, and thence to the Thames at the end of Abingdon-st. 
 " This island comprised the precinct of the Abbey and Palace, which were 
 further defended by lofty stone walls; those on the east and south of the Col- 
 lege gardens being the last remains of such defences of a later date. They were 
 pierced with four gateways : the first in King-street; the second near New 
 Palace-yard, the foundations of which were seen in December A.D. 1838, in 
 excavating for a sewer ^ the third opening into Tothill-street ; and the fourth near 
 the mill in College-street. The precinct was entered by two bridges : one crossed 
 the water of Long Ditch, at the east end of Gardener's-lane, having been built by 
 Queen Matilda, the consort of King Henry I., for foot passengers ; the other 
 still exists at the east end of College-street, underneath the pavement, it con- 
 nected Millbank with Dirty-lane." Walcott's Westminster, p. 3. 
 
 In Domesday-Book, Westminster is designated a village, with about 
 50 holders of land, and " pannage for a hundred hogs," probably in 
 part of the forest of Middlesex, on the north-west; so that the Liberty 
 of Westminster thus early extended northward to Tyburn : the whole 
 of the Abbey and Palace precinct, south of Pall Mall, was called by the 
 Normans, " Thorney Island and tout le champ." In Domesday, also, 
 is " the vineyard lately made by Bainard," a Norman follower of the 
 Confessor or the Conqueror. Westward, the parish of St. Margaret's 
 extends to Chelsea, and includes Kensington Palace. In 1174, Fitz- 
 stephen describes the Royal Palace as about two miles westward of 
 the City of London, with an intervening suburb of gardens and orchards. 
 Around the Old Palace the courtiers and nobility fixed their town resi- 
 dences. The establishment of the Wool-staple at Westminster made it 
 rche early resort of merchants ; the Law Courts were fixed here, and 
 thenceforth Parliaments were more frequently held; and in the reign 
 lof Henry VIII , Westminster obtained the title of City, from its having 
 been for a short time the residence and see of a bishop. St. Martin's- 
 in-the-Fields became a parish 1353-61. 
 
756 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, about 1560, a plan shows 
 "Westminster united to London by a double line of buildings, extending 
 from the palace of Whitehall (built by Henry III.), by Charing Cross 
 and along the Strand. Around "Westminster Abbey and Hall, the 
 buildings formed a town of several streets ; and at the close of Charles 
 II.'s reign they had extended westward along the south side of St. 
 James's Park, and southward along Millbank to the Horseferry op- 
 posite Lambeth Palace. In the reign of Elizabeth, Westminster was the 
 abode of great numbers of felons, masterless men, and cutpurses ; and in 
 the next reign, " almost every fourth house was an alehouse, harbering 
 all sorts of lewd and badde people." To the church of St. Margaret 
 (originally built by Edward the Confessor) was added, in 1728, St. 
 John's near Millbank ; and in 1747 was completed Westminster Bridge. 
 The old streets were so narrow, that " opposite neighbours might shake 
 hands out of the windows ;" and a knot of wretched lanes and alleys 
 were called "the desert of Westminster." For a century past these 
 miserable abodes have been in course of removal. 
 
 Among the old Westminster Signs, mentioned in the parish books, 
 are the Rose (the Tudor badge) ; the Lamb and the Saracen's Head 
 (Crusades) ; and the White Hart (Richard II.), to this day the sign of 
 Elliot's A.le-brewery at Pimlico. 
 
 Westminster is governed by a High-Steward and a High-Bailiff. 
 The first High-Steward was the great Lord Burghley. The City has ; 
 returned two members to Parliament since 1 Edward VI. 
 
 Abingdon-street has been built in place of Dirty-lane. 
 
 Almonry, the (see page 4), has disappeared. 
 
 St. Anne's-lane, named from the Chapel of the Mother of Our Lady, 
 was part of the orchard and fruit-gardens of the Abbey. Henry Pur- 
 cell and Dr. Heather, the famous musicians, lived here. 
 
 Artillery -place was the ground for the men of Westminster's shoot- 
 ing at "the butts ;" and early in the last century it was " made use of 
 by those who delight in militaVv exercises." 
 
 Barton street was built by Barton Booth, the celebrated actor ; and 
 Cowley-street is named from Cowley, in Middlesex, where Booth resided. 
 
 Broadway (the), west of Tothill-street, was granted as a hay-market 
 by James I. and Charles II. Here were " the White Horse and Black 
 Horse Inns ; there being none in the parish of St. Margaret at West- 
 minster for stage-coaches, waggons, or carriers." (Survey, circ. 1700.) 
 In one of the Broadway courts lodged Turpin, the highwayman ; and 
 from his mare, Black Bess, a tavern took its sign. In the Broadway 
 lived Sir John Hill, the empiric, of physic-garden fame. (See CHRIST- 
 CHURCH, Broadway, p. 122.) 
 
 Canon-row formerly extended from the Woolstaple northward to 
 the south wall of the orchard of Whitehall. It is named from the dean 
 and canons of St. Stephen's Chapel lodging there. 
 
 " 'Twas the old way when the King of England had his house, there -were 
 canons to sing service in his chapel; so at Westminster is St. Stephen's Chapel 
 (where the House of Commons sits), from which canons the street called Canon- 
 row has its name, because they lived there." Selden's Table-talk. 
 
 It has been vulgarly called Channel-row, and in our time Cannon- 
 row. Upon the site of the canons' houses were built several mansions, 
 the gardens of which reached to the Thames: for one of these houses 
 the Comptroller of the Household of Edward VI. paid only 30s. annually. 
 Here Anne Duchess of Somerset, sister-in-law to Queen Katherine 
 Parr, built a stately liouse, wherein Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset, 
 was born in 1590 : upon the-site is Dorset-court. In 1618, William Earl 
 of Derby built here a mansion, which was surrendered to Parliament 
 temp. Charles I. ; and here died, in 1643, John Pym, their patriotic leader: 
 
WESTMINSTER. 757 
 
 the house was temporarily, in the reign of Charles II., the Admiralty 
 Office ; it occupied the site of Derby-court, In Canon-row lived Lady 
 Wheler, to whom Charles I., two days before his execution, sent, by his 
 attendant Herbert, a token-ring : the lady handed him a cabinet, with 
 which he returned to the King, who opened it on the morning of his 
 execution ; it contained diamonds and jewels, most part broken Georges 
 and garters : " You see," said he, " all the wealth now in my power to 
 give my children." Here is the Office of the Board of Control for the 
 Affairs of India, originally built for the Ordnance Office, by William 
 Atkinson : " the Ionic portico of this chaste and fine building is one of 
 the best proportioned and best applied in the metropolis" (Elmes). 
 Manchester-buildings occupy the site of a mansion of the Montagues, 
 Earls of Manchester. In Canon-row is the Architectural Museum (see 
 MUSEUMS, page 532). 
 
 Charles-street y at No. 19 lived Ignatius Sancho, a negro, who had 
 been butler to the Duke of Montague, and gave his last shilling to see 
 Garrick play Richard III. Here Garrick and Sterne visited him ; and 
 Mortimer, the painter, often consulted him. 
 
 Dean's-yard, south-west of the Abbey, has a green, or playground, 
 for the Westminster Scholars, whereon have played, in " careless child- 
 hood," Ben Jonson, George Herbert, Cowley, Dryden, Nat. Lee, Rowe, 
 Prior, Churchill, Dyer, Cowper, and Southey ; Hackluyt, the voyager; 
 Sir Christopher Wren, Locke, South, Atterbury, Warren Hastings, 
 and Gibbon. In Dean's-yard lived Sir Symonds d'Ewes, the antiquary, 
 who delighted in bell-ringing. Bishop Wilcocks, whom Pope Clement 
 VIII. called "the blessed heretic," was born in Dean's-yard in 1673; 
 in the cloisters, in 1708, died the excellent Bishop Beveridge ; Carte, 
 the Jacobite historian, lived in Dean's-yard, where Mrs. Porter, Gib- 
 bon's aunt, built and occupied a boarding-house. In Little Dean's-yard 
 is ASHBURNHAM HOUSE, described at page 22. 
 
 Downing -street, see WHITEHALL. 
 
 Duke-street, " a spacious and pleasant street between St. James's 
 Park N., and Long Ditch s., mostly (especially the w. side) inhabited 
 by persons of quality" (Hatton, 1708). In a house facing Charles- 
 j street lived the poet Prior. Bishop Stillingfleet, author of Origines 
 Britannicce, died here 1699 ; Arehbishop Button, 1758 ; and Dr. Arnold, 
 the musical composer, 1802. At the north end of the street is the en- 
 trance to the State- Paper Office. DUKE-STREET CHAPEL is described 
 at page 167. At the corner of the south end of Delahay-street and Great 
 George-street lived Lady Augusta Murray, " Duchess of Sussex." 
 
 Fludyer-street, between King-street and St. James's Park, is named 
 ifrom Sir Samuel Fludyer, Bart., the ground-landlord, who, when lord- 
 jmayor in 1761, entertained George III. and Queen Charlotte at Guild- 
 " all. Fludyer-street occupies the site of Axe-yard, from the Axe brew- 
 , named in a document 23 Hen. VIII. Pepys had a house here. 
 
 Francis-street : here is the Victoria Lodging-house for the wives 
 and children of soldier^. 
 
 Gardener 1 s-lane extends from Duke-street to King-street : here 
 in 1677, Wenceslaus Hollar, the celebrated engraver, aged 70, at 
 moment when he had an execution in his house; he desired of 
 sheriff's officers " only the liberty of dying in his bed, and that he 
 
 ht not be removed to any other prison but his grave" (Oldys). He 
 as buried in the New Chapel yard, near the place of his death ; and no 
 ument was erected to his memory. Hollar engraved 2400 prints, 
 d worked for the booksellers at 4d. per hour; yet his finest prints 
 ing rare prices. 
 
 GATEHOUSE (the) is described at page 325. 
 
 Great George-street, named from the House of Hanover, was com- 
 
758 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 pleted in 1750 : the site was an arm of the Thames, when the tide flowed 
 up from Bridge-street to the canal in St. James's Park. Here was 
 Storey's Gate, named from Edward Storey, who constructed the decoys 
 in St. James's Park for Charles II., and who lived upon the site : this 
 gate was taken down in 1854. At No. 15 Great George-street died 
 Lord Chancellor Thurlow, 1806. At No. 25 [then Sir Edward Knatch- 
 bull's) the body of Lord Byron lay in state two days, before it was re- 
 moved, July 12, 1824, for interment at Hticknall, Notts. No. 25 Great 
 George-street has a handsome architectural front, and is now the In- 
 stitution of Civil Engineers (see LIBRARIES, p. 459; and MUSEUMS, 
 p. 533). At No. 24 the Reform Club was commenced ; and here sub- 
 sequently lived Alderman Sir Matthew Wood, Bart., M.P. 
 
 Horseferry (the) is described at p. 377. 
 
 James-street is described at p. 421. It was partly taken down in 
 1854 for the Pimlico improvements. 
 
 In 1763 there were but few houses in James-street, and none behind it ; nor 
 any filthy courts between Petty France and the Park; nor any buildings in 
 Palmer's Village, or in Tothill-fields, or on the Artillery-ground, or to the south 
 of Market-street. Bardwell. 
 
 King-street was the principal street of "Westminster temp, Henry 
 VIII., with Cockpit-gate at the north end, and High-gate south. 
 Here the poet Spenser died "for lake of bread," in an obscure lodg- , 
 ing, Jan. 16, 1599; here also died Sir Thomas Knevett, who seized Guyj 
 Fawkes. Cromwell lived here when member of parliament, north of 
 Blue-Boar's-Head-yard. Dr. Sydenham lived upon the site of RamVJ 
 Mews. Near the south end, on'the west side, was Thieven- (Thieves) 
 lane,* the passage for thieves to the Gatehouse prison, so that they 
 might not escape into the Sanctuary. The roadway was so bad, that 
 fagots were thrown into the ruts to facilitate the passage of the state- 
 coach when the sovereign went to parliament. Here, at the Bell Ta- 
 vern, met the October (Queen Anne) Club. Here lodged the poet 
 Carew, who wrote the masque of Ccelum Britannicum for Charles I. 
 Through King-street, Elizabeth and James and Charles I. proceeded 
 to the Houses of Parliament in their state-coaches ; and the republi- 
 cans of Cromwell's days on foot and horseback. After the burning 
 of Whitehall Palace, a broader road was made by Parliament-street. 
 Cromwell, when he went to Ireland in 1649, took horse at his house in 
 King-street. At the north end of King-street was built, by Henry 
 VIII., the Westminster or King's Gate, of stone, as a communication, 
 by a passage over it, of Whitehall Palace with the Park : it was of Tudor 
 design, with four round-capped turrets : each front was enriched with 
 Ionic pilasters and an entablature, roses, the portcullis, and the royal 
 arms, and glazed biscuit-ware busts. In this Gatehouse lived the Earl 
 of Rochester and Herr von Auls : it was taken down in 1723. 
 
 Millbank-street, in 1745 called the High-street at Millbank, was 
 named from the Abbey water-mill, built by Nicholas Littlington, at 
 the end of the present College-street, and turned by the stream which 
 flowed by the Infirmary garden-wall eastward into the Thames ( Wai- 
 cotf). Upon the site of the mill was built Peterborough House, by the 
 first Earl of Peterborough, in the reign of Charles I., and is shown in 
 Hollar's Map of London, 1708. Stow describes the mansion with a 
 large front court, and fine gardens behind ; " but its situation was 
 bleak in winter, and not over-healthful." The house was purchased 
 by the Grosvenor family, and rebuilt : it was taken down in 1809. In 
 the middle of Millbank lived Mr. Vidler, the Government contractor: 
 hence the mail-coach procession started annually on the king's birth- 
 
 * Thieven or Thieving lane was also called Bow-street, from its bowed line; 
 and Bow-street, Covent Garden, to this day the terror of thieves. 
 
WESTMINSTER. 759 
 
 day. The Penitentiary, at Millbank, is described at page 633. In New- 
 way, adjoining, was a chapel where Romaine preached. 
 
 Palace-yard, New, is named from William Rufus's intended new 
 palace, of which the hall only was built : here was a beautiful Conduit, 
 removed temp. Charles II. Opposite Westminster Hall gate, temp. 
 Edward I., Lord Chief-Justice Hengham built a large stone clock- 
 tower, taken down 1698. In this yard King Edward I. appealed to 
 the loyalty of his people, from a platform erected against the front of 
 Westminster Hall, in 1297 ; here Perkin Warbeck was set in the stocks, 
 in 1498 ; Stubbs, the Puritan attorney, and his servant, had their hands 
 cut off in New Palace-yard, in 1580, for a libel against Queen Elizabeth ; 
 and William Parry was here hung and quartered for high treason, in 
 1578; here Lord Sanquhar was hanged for murder, 1612; Archbishop 
 Leighton's father was pilloried and publicly whipped for libel, 1630; 
 William Prynne was pilloried here, and his Histrio-Mastix burned, 
 1634 ; here the Duke of Holland, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel, 
 | were put to death for treason, in 1649; Titus Gates was pilloried here 
 in 1685 ; and John Williams in 1765, for publishing No. 45 of Wilkes's 
 North Briton. Here was the Turk's Head, Miles's Coffee-house, where 
 the noted Rota Club met, whose republican opinions Harrington has 
 glorified in his Oceana. The Tudor buildings of the old Palace were 
 principally taken down in 1793; but a range, including the Star Cham- 
 ber,* on the eastern side of the court, were not removed until 1836 (see 
 page 396). At his official residence, east of Westminster Hall porch, 
 died William Godwin, the novelist, April 7, 1836, aged 81. 
 
 Palace-yard, Old, south-west of the Houses of Parliament, had on 
 the west the old Lady Chapel of the Abbey, and abutting upon it the 
 White Rose Tavern, and the house of Chaucer, in which he died (the 
 I site is now occupied by the mausoleum of Henry VII.) ; and in a house 
 between the churchyard and the Old Palace died Ben Jonson ; so that 
 two greatest of England's poets died almost upon the same spot. At 
 the south-east corner of Old Palace-yard stood the house through 
 which the conspirators in the Gunpowder Plot carried their barrels 
 into the vault ; and in the yard, Guy Faukes, Winter, Rookwood, and 
 Keyes, suffered death in 1606. Here, 29th Oct. 1618, Sir Walter Ra- 
 leigh was executed at 8 in the morning of Lord Mayor's Day, " so that 
 I the pageants and fine shewes might draw away the people from behold- 
 I ing the tragedie of one of the gallantest worthies that ever England 
 bred."f 
 
 Palmer"s Village, west of the Almonry, was a low-lying district 
 I (12| inches below high- water mark), consisting of straggling cottages 
 I around the twelve almshouses built in 1566 by the Rev. Edward 
 I Palmer, B.D., with a chapel and school attached. Thirty years since, 
 I here was an old wayside inn (the Prince of Orange), rows of cottages 
 
 * In 1830 a semi-political journal entitled the Star-Chamber was announced 
 Ijfor publication, to be edited by Benjamin Disraeli, jun. 
 
 t In the Pepysian Collection at Cambridge is a Ballad with the following title: 
 I " Sir Walter Rauleigh his Lamentation, who was beheaded in the Old Pallace of 
 I Westminster the 29 of October, 1618. To the tune of Welladay." Note to 
 mRaleigh's Imprisonment in the Tower, see page 730 : In 1603, "in the course of 
 lia few months Raleigh was first confined in his own house, then conveyed to tha 
 I Tower, next sent to Winchester gaol, returned from thence to the Tower, impri- 
 Itapned for between two and three months in the Fleet, and again removed to the 
 Ip'ower, where he remained until released thirteen years afterwards, to undertake 
 '.his new expedition to Guiana." (Mr. J. Payne Collier; Archtfologia, vol. xxxv. 
 lip. 218.) Mr. Collier possesses a copy of that rare tract, " A Good Speed to Vir- 
 feinia," 4to, 1609, with the autograph on the title-page, " W. Ralegh, Turr. 
 IpLond.;" showing that at the time this tract was published, and read by Raleigh, 
 ape recorded himself as a prisoner in the Tower of London. 
 
760 " CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 with gardens, and the Tillage-green, upon which the Maypole was an- 
 nually set up : this rurality has now disappeared, and with it from maps 
 and plans the name of " Palmer's Village." 
 
 Park-street, built circ. 1708, northward from Carter et-street, making 
 it like a T, contains the house of Mr. Charles Towneley, who, in 1772, 
 assembled here his first collection of marbles, terra-cottas, bronzes, &c., 
 commenced in 1768 at Rome. See BRITISH MUSEUM, page 519. 
 
 Petty France (Petit France, Hatton, 1708), and now York- street, 
 from Frederick Duke of York, sou of George II., having temporarily 
 resided here, extends from Tothill-street to James-street. In Petty 
 France was Milton's pleasant garden-house, described at page 595. 
 
 Prince 1 s-street was formerly Long Ditch : here was an ancient con- 
 duit, the site of which is now marked by a pump ; at the bottom of the 
 well is a black marble image of St. Peter, and some marble steps. 
 The southern extremity of this street was called Broken Cross : here, 
 about the middle of the last century, was the most ancient house in 
 Westminster (Walcott). Upon the east side of the street was built 
 Her Majesty's New Stationery Office, in neat Italian style, in 1554, 
 upon the site of the Westminster Mews. In Prince's- court, at the 
 south end of the street, lived John Wilkes in 1788. 
 
 Queen-square is described at page 684. In Queen-street was born, . 
 in 16-42, James Tyrrell (a grandson of Archbishop Usher) : he wrote a 
 History of England, 3 vols. folio, valuable for its exact references to 
 the ancient chronicles. 
 
 Rochester-row is named from the Bishops of Rochester, who were 
 also Deans of Westminster. Here are Emery Hill's Almshouses ; and 
 opposite are the Church of St. Stephen, and Schools, built and endowed 
 by the munificence of Miss Angela Burdett Coutts. (See page 160.) 
 
 Sanctuary (the) of Westminster Abbey is described as the space by 
 St. Margaret's churchyard, between the old Gatehouse s.w., and ; 
 King-street X.E. The right of sanctuary, i.e. protection to criminals i 
 and debtors from arrest, was retained by "Westminster after the Disso- I 
 lution in 1540; and "sanctuary men" were allowed to use a whittle ; 
 only at their meals, and compelled to wear a badge. The privilege of 
 sanctuary caused the houses within the precinct to let for high rents ; < 
 but it was totally abolished by James I. in 1623 : it is called by Fa- 
 byan, " the Seyntwary before the Abbey." Here were two cruciform I 
 churches, built one above the other, the lower a double cross : the upper, j 
 the Rev. Mr. Walcott thinks, for the debtors and inhabitants of the -j 
 Broad and the Little Sanctuaries; the lower for criminals. " They j 
 could not leave the precinct without the dean's license, or between 
 sunset and sunrise." In Little Sanctuary was the Three Tuns Tavern, ' 
 built upon part of the church vaults, which served as the inn-cellar. 
 The tower of the church, rebuilt by Edward II., contained three bells, > 
 the ringing of which " sowered all the drinke in the town." The church 
 was demolished in 1750. Fifty years later was removed from Broad 
 Sanctuary the old market-house/built in 1568; and upon the site was' 
 erected, in 1805, the present Guildhall, with a Doric vestibule, S. P. . 
 Cockerell architect. Here also are the Office and Central Schools of 
 the National Society ; the Westminster Hospital, built 1833 (see page 
 387) ; and the New Stationery Office. The Sanctuary churches are de- 
 scribed by Dr. Stukeley, who remembered their standing (Archceologia, i. 
 p. 39). There were other sanctuaries in London ; but the Westminster 
 site alone retains its ancient name. 
 
 Here Judge Tresilian (temp. Richard II.) fled, but was dragged to Tyburn 
 and hanged. In 1441, Eleanor Cobham, Duchess of Gloucester, accused of 
 witchcraft and treason, was denied refuge. In 1460, Lord Scales, as he was 
 seeking sanctuary here, was murdered on the Thames. Elizabeth Woodville, 
 
WESTMINSTER. 761 
 
 queen of Edward IV., and her family, escaped from the Tower, and registered 
 themselves "sanctuary women;" and here, "in great penury, forsaken cf all 
 friends," she gave birth to Edward V. More describes her sitting " alow on the 
 rushes," in her grief. The Register of the Sanctuary, Gough states, was bought 
 out of Sir Henry Spelman's Collection, by Wanley, for Lord VVeymouth, and pre- 
 served in the library at Longleat. 
 
 The vacant ground was let, in 1821, to speculators in seats to view the 
 coronation-procession of George IV., upon a raised platform, from West- 
 minster Abbey to Westminster Hall. In 1854 was built, adjoining the 
 west end of the Abbey, a block of houses in the Mediaeval style, G. G. 
 Scott architect ; the centre opening being the entrance to Dean's-yard. 
 Tothill Fields, betweeu Pimlico and the Thames, anciently the 
 manor of Tothill, belonging to John Maunsel, chancellor, who, in 1256, 
 entertained here Henry III. and his court, at a vast feast in tents and 
 pavilions. The Normans called this district tout le champ, which is 
 thought to have been clipped into tout le, and then corrupted into 
 \toutle and Tot-hill. (Bardivell.} It occurs, however, in an ancient 
 lease as Toot-hill or Beacon Field,* which Mr. Hudson, Turner sug- 
 gested to Mr. Cunningham as the probable origin. The Rev. Mr. 
 "Walcott restricts it within the sanctuary of the Abbey. At the Tothill 
 'ere decided wagers of battle and appeals by combat. Necromancy, 
 >rcery, and witchcraft were punished here; and "royal solemnities 
 id goodly jousts were held here." In Culpeper's time the fields were 
 famous for parsley. In 1642 a battery and breastwork were here 
 srected. Here were built the " Five Houses," or " Seven Chimneys," 
 pest-houses for victims to the Plague; and in 1665 the dead were 
 iried "in the open Tuttle Fields." The Fields are described as " of 
 use, pleasure, and recreation" to the king's scholars and neigh- 
 irs ; and in 1672 the parish made here a new Maze, which was "much 
 juented in summer time in fair afternoons." (Aubrey,.} In Queen 
 .nne's reign, here was William Well's bear-garden, upon the site of 
 'incent-square. St. Edward's Fair was removed from St. Margaret's 
 shurchyard to Tothill Fields, 34 Hen. III., who granted the Abbot of 
 "'estminster " leave to keepe a markett in the Tuthill every Munday, 
 id a faire every yeare for three days ;" and Edward III. granted a fair 
 thirty-one days. Both fairs were suppressed by James I. Here, 
 1651, the Trained Bands were drawn out; and in the same year, 
 [eath's Chronicle records, the Scotch prisoners "driven like a herd 
 " swine through Westminster to Tuthill Fields, and there sold to several 
 lerchants, and sent to the Barbadoes." One of "the Civil War Tracts 
 |f Lancashire," printed by the Chetham Society, states there were 
 4000 Scots, Highlands, or Redshanks," many with their wives and 
 rns, of whom 1200 were buried in Tuttle Fields. They next became 
 noted duel-ground: here, in 1711, Sir Cholmeley Dering, M.P., was 
 lied by the first shot of Mr. Richard Thornhill, who was tried for 
 ler and acquitted, but found guilty of manslaughter, and was burnt 
 the hand. Here also was an ancient Bridewell (see page 637). 
 Tothill- street, extending from Broad Sanctuary to York-street, has 
 ; most of its picturesque old houses. The Cock public-house (de- 
 ribed at page 398) was taken down in 1854. In Tothill-street lived the 
 shop of Chester, 1488 ; William Lord Grey of Wilton, " the greatest 
 lier of the nobility," died 1563; Sir George Carew, at Caron House, 
 ! ; and Lincoln House was the Office of the Revels, 1664. Southern, 
 dramatic poet, lived ten years at No. 56, then as now, an oilman's : 
 bears the date 1671. Betterton, the actor, was born in this street, 
 the reign of Elizabeth, the houses on the north side had gardens 
 
 Others refer it to Toote Hill, shown in Rooque's map (1746), just at a bend 
 the Horsefjerry-road,,but now lost in the adjacent made ground. 
 
762 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 extending to the park, and those on the south to Orchard-street, once 
 the orchard-garden of the Abbey. Here, in 1789, died, aged 97, Thomas 
 Amory, who wrote the Memoirs of John Buncle. Here is the Fleece 
 public-house, of which a ioken exists, date 1666. The old Cock public- 
 house, described at page 398, was taken down in 1853, 
 
 Tuflon-street was built by Sir Richard Tufton (d. 1631) : here was a 
 cock-pit, which existed long after that in St. James's Park was deserted. 
 
 Victoria-street, commenced by the Westminster Improvement Com- 
 mission in 1845, extends across the sites of the Almonry, Orchard-street, 
 Duck-lane, New Pye-street, and part of Old Pye-street (named from 
 Sir Robert Pye, w'ho resided here), to Strutton-ground, named from 
 Stourton-house, the mansion of the Lords Dacre of the South. Thence 
 the new street crosses Artillery-place, through Palmer's Village, on 
 the north-side of Westminster Bridewell, past Elliot's brewery to 
 Shaftesbury-terrace, Pimlico. Victoria-street is above 1000 yards, or 
 nearly five furlongs in length, and 80 feet wide : the houses are 82 feet, 
 in height ; Henry Ashton architect. The ornamentation of the house- 
 fronts, worked in cement, is extremely artistic : the interiors are mostly 
 arranged in flats, as in Edinburgh and Paris. About the centre, on 
 the north side, is a house of Jacobean design. In the line of street are 
 the three churches of St. Mark, the Holy Trinity, and Christchurch ; 
 and at the north-west rear is St. Andrew''s church, in the Geometrical 
 style; the nave asles showing five gables on each side, filled 
 with large and lofty windows; architect, G. G. Scott. Victoria- 
 street was publicly opened Aug. 6, 1851. Here are the new Training-' 
 schools of the National Society, in the Mediaeval style ; Henry Glutton 
 architect : the foundation-stone was laid by Prince Albert, 1852. Of 
 the six other streets projected, the principal will be Albert-street, con-? 
 necting Victoria-street with James-street, at Buckingham Gate. 
 
 Vine-street denotes the site of a vineyard, probably that of the 
 Abbey. In the overseer's book, 1565, is rated " the vyne-garden " and 
 " my 11," next to Bowling-alley ; the vine-garden called " because, per- 
 haps, vines anciently were there nourished, and wine made." (Stow.) In' 
 Edward Vlth's time it was inclosed with buildings. Bowling street 
 and alley denote the site of the green where the members of the 
 convent played at bowls. Opposite Bowling-alley is a house where 
 the notorious Colonel Blood died, Aug. 24, 1680 : upon the house-front 
 was a shield with a coat of arms. ( Walcott.} 
 
 Wood-street, described in 1720 as " very narrow, being old boarded 
 hovels ready to fall," has disappeared. Here lived John Carter, the 
 diligent antiquary. At No. 13 North-street lived Elliston, the come- 
 dian, who dearly" loved his art: "wherever Elliston walked, sat, or 
 stood still, there" was the theatre." C. Lamb. 
 
 Woolstaple (the) was, in 1353, appointed for weighing: all the wool 
 brought to London. The Long Staple (upon the site of Bridge-street) 
 consisted of a strong round tower and a water-gate, which was 
 destroyed to make room for the western abutment of Westminster 
 Bridge, in 1741. Here was St. Stephen's Hospital, founded by Henry 
 VIII. in 1548, and removed in 1745. when eight almshouses were rebuilt 
 in St. Anne's-lane, inscribed " Woolstaple Pensioners, 1741." In 
 1628, in the overseers' books of St. Margaret's, is rated in the Wool- 
 staple, " Orlando Gibbons, ijd." 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL 
 
 Was originally added to the ancient Palace at Westminster by William 
 Rufus, who held his first court herein, 1099. In 1394-9 Richard II. had 
 its walls heightened two feet, the windows altered, and a new timber 
 roof constructed, from the design of Henry Zeneley. During the re- 
 
WESTMINSTER HALL. 763 
 
 pairs of 1835 the work of the two kings (William II. and Richard II.) 
 was distinguishable, including a Norman arcade connecting the clerestory 
 windows. The exterior is of modern design, except the north porch 
 and window, which, with the internal stone-work (except the south 
 end), is one of our earliest specimens of the Perpendicular style, and is 
 thought to have been the work of William of Wykeham. The original 
 walls (chiefly rubble and grout work) were then cased 1 foot 7 inches 
 thick with stone, flying buttresses were erected as abutments on the 
 east and west sides, and the embattled flanking towers and porch of the 
 north front added : the towers were restored 1819-22. The roof was ori- 
 ginally covered with lead ; for which, on account of its immense weight, 
 slates were substituted. The lantern, of cast-iron, is an exact copy of 
 the original one erected near the end of the 14th century : it is glazed. 
 The interior dimensions of Westminster Hall are 239 feet by 68, and 
 42 feet high. The immense timber-framed roof is one of the finest 
 dsting examples of scientific construction in carpentry ; its only bear- 
 g being at the extremities of the great ribs, which abut against the 
 de walls, and rest upon twenty-six sculptured stone corbels. At half 
 lis height the timber arches spring from the stone string-course, sculp- 
 ired with the white hart couchant under a tree, and other devices of 
 ichard II. ; so that the upper half of the height of the edifice is en- 
 rely of timber (oak),* unrivalled for its accurately moulded detail. The 
 immer - beams are sculptured with angels bearing shields of the 
 ms of Richard II. or Edward the Confessor, which show the excel- 
 nce that sculpture in wood had attained in England so early as the 
 sign of Richard II. From the roof were formerly hung " guidons, 
 >lours and standards, ensigns and trophies of victory ;" in Hatton's 
 me (1708), 138 colours and 34 standards, from the battles of Neasby 
 id Worcester, Preston and Dunbar, and Blenheim : Hatton describes 
 urteen, with their mottoes Englished. The roof was thoroughly re- 
 aired in 1820-21, when forty loads of oak, from old ships broken up in 
 ortsmouth Dockyard, were'used in renewing decayed parts, and com- 
 leting the portion at the north end, where it had been left unfinished; 
 ie roof was also greatly strengthened by tension-rods added to the prin- 
 pals in 1851. Abutting on the southern end was the Galilee, finished by 
 dward III., and adapted by Richard II. with a flight of steps to the 
 jproach from the Great Hall to the Chapel of St. Stephen and the 
 rincipal chambers of the Palace. Above the side line of windows 
 e dormers (added in 1820-21), which improve the chiaroscuro; and 
 jove are apertures, opened in 1843, to aid the effect of an exhibition 
 * cartoons. The Hall now forms the vestibule to the new Houses of 
 arliament; which Sir Charles Barry has effected by removing the large 
 indow from the south end to form an archway to St. Stephen's Porch, 
 herein he has fixed the Hall window, with an additional transom and 
 >w of lights. (See St. Stephens Porch, pp. 600-2.) 
 The statues f flanking the archway in the Hall are: 
 
 
 * The Roof is often stated to be of chestnut ; but it is of the British oak, 
 tercus sessiflora, which is so deficient in grain as not to be distinguishable at 
 :st sight from chestnut. The wood of the chestnut, though tolerably durable 
 hen young, is not at all so when it has attained the size of a timber-tree.^- 
 >udon's Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum. 
 
 t These Statues, together with all the stone Statues in the interior and exterior 
 
 the New Palace at Westminster, are by John Thomas. 
 
764 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Sir Charles Barry contemplates raising the roof fourteen feet, 
 closing the doorways of the Law Courts, and adorning the walls with 
 frescoes, &c. The heraldic decorations of the corbels and string-course 
 are described by Mr. Willement in the Collectanea Topogr. et Gen. vol. 
 iii. p. 55 ; and the architectural discoveries in 1835 are detailed by Mr. 
 Sydney Smirke in Archesologia, TO!S. xxvi. and xxvii. 
 
 The floor of the Hall, from its low level, has often been flooded by! 
 the Thames: as in 1238, when the middle of the Hall might be passed in 
 boats, and persons rode through it on horseback to their chambers; in 
 1555, when the Lord Mayor was rowed by a wherry-man into the Hall, 
 to present the Sheriff to the Barons of the Exchequer; and in 1579, 
 when the water rose so high in Westminster Hall, "that, after the fall-: 
 thereof, some fishes were found there to remaine." (Stow). 
 
 The Coronation, Christmas, and other great Feasts of our sovereigns 
 were held in Westminster Hall, the guests numbering thousands of all 
 ranks. Edward I. was here proclaimed king, and for his coronation-^ 
 feast the Hall was whitewashed. Here Edward III. feasted the captive j 
 John King of France. Richard II. celebrated the completion of the , 
 Hall with a " most royal " feast of 26 or 28 oxen, and 300 sheep, and : 
 fowls without number, several days; and here this king was solemnly 
 deposed, and sentenced to perpetual imprisonment. After great part of 
 the Palace was burnt in 1512, only the Great Hall was kept in repair j^ 
 " and it serveth, as before it did, for feasts of coronations, arraignments- 
 of great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of jus-, 
 tice, &c." (Stoip). Hither came 411 of the rioters on Evil May-day, 
 1517, each with a halter about his neck, crying to the king upon his 
 throne for mercy ; when " the general pardon being pronounced, all the 
 prisoners showted at once, and cast their halters towards the roof ot 
 the Hall" (Stow). 
 
 Here Cromwell was inaugurated Lord Protector, 26th June, 1657, 
 upon an elevated platform at the south end of the Hall, in the ancient 
 coronation-chair, " under a prince-like canopy of state," with the Bible, 
 sword, and sceptre of the Commonwealth before him; the Protector 
 entering the Hall with the Lord Mavor bearing the Citv sword befort 
 him. On May 8th, 1660, King Charles II. was proclaimed at " West- 
 minster Hall Gate." Upon the south gable were set up the heads of 
 Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw : Cromwell's head remained 20 years. 
 
 Abutting on the west side of Westminster Hall, and in part beneath 
 it, were three taverns Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory. They were an- 
 ciently prisons, mentioned in a grant 1 Hen. VII. (1485). As taverns, 
 they were much frequented by lawyers' clerks. In Ben Jonson's Al- 
 chemist, Dapper is forbidden to " break his fast in Heaven and Hell." 
 
 " Faire Heaven at the end of Hell." Hudibras. 
 
 Pepys records dining at Heaven, and spending the evening in one of 
 these taverns with Lock and Purcell, and hearing Lock's new canon, 
 Domine salvumfac Regem. " The prison-keys of Purgatory, attached to 
 a leather girdle, are still preserved." (Walcott's Westminster, page 221.) 
 Here were kept the " ducking-stools," with which the burgesses ofWest- 
 minster (by statute 27 Eliz.) were empowered to punish common scolds, 
 &c. Heaven and Purgatory were taken down about 1741. 
 
 Parliaments assembled 'in this Hall as early as 1248 (33 Hen. III.) 
 and 1265 (49 Hen. III.), the latter being the first representation of the 
 people in its present form. 
 
 Courts of Justice were held in this Hall almost from its first erec- 
 tion, the sovereign presiding : they are first noticed on the Placita 
 Rolls, 10th Richard I. : thus for 7 centuries it has been " the very Prseto- 
 rium, or Hall of Justice for all England" (Foss). The arrangement of 
 
WESTMINSTER HALL. 765 
 
 the courts is described at page 447. They are on the west side of the 
 Hall, across which the Lord Chancellor and other judges proceed in 
 state to open the courts on the first day of Term. 
 
 "In the reign of Charles I., the King's Servants, by His Majestie's special 
 order, went to Westminster Hall in Term-time, to invite gentlemen to eat of the 
 King's Acates or Viands; and in Parliament-time, to invite the Parliament- men 
 thereunto." Delaune's Anglice Metropolis, 1690. 
 
 Memorable Trials in Westminster Hall. 1305, Sir William Wallace condemned 
 
 I for treason (in Rufus's Hall) ; 1417, Sir John Oldcastle the Wickliffite ; 1522. Staf- 
 ford, Duke of Buckingham, for treason; 1535, Sir Thomas More arraigned here; 
 1551, the Protector Somerset brought to trial, with " bills, halberts, and pole-axes 
 attending him," the clamoxir of the people "heard to the Long Acre beyond 
 Charing Crosse;" 1554, Sir Thomas Wyatt; 1557, Lord Stourton, for murder; 
 1600, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; 1606, Guy Fawkes and his fellow-conspi- 
 
 I rators; 1616, the profligate Earl and Countess of Somerset, for the murder of Sir 
 Thomas Overbury; 1640 (18 days' trial), Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, before 
 Charles I. and his queen; 1649, King Charles I. (in 1661, the Act for the King's 
 Trial was burned by the common hangman in the Hall while the court was sit- 
 ting); 1688, the Seven Bishops; 1710, Dr. Sacheverel ; 1716, Viscount Kenmure 
 and the Earl of Der went water ; 1746-47, the rebel Lords Kilmarnock, Baltnerino, 
 
 Hand Lovat; 1760, Earl Ferrers, for murder; 1.776, the Duchess of Kingston, for 
 bigamy; 1788 to 1795, Warren Hastings's seven years' trial; 1806, Lord Melville. 
 
 Shops or stalls, chiefly of booksellers, sempstresses, and milliners, 
 resembling those in Old Exeter Change,) were kept in Westminster 
 Hall: they are shown in Gravelot's print. "Counters and stalls for 
 oks (at one time sold by poor scholars of Westminster between 
 ool-hours), as well as other merchandise, were to be seen here in 
 erm-time, and during the session of Parliament, even in the beginning 
 " the reign of King George III." Walcott's Westminster, p. 250. 
 At the Great Fire of 1666 the Hall was filled with "the people's 
 " for safety. The edifice narrowly escaped being burnt through 
 fire in the shops, Sunday, Feb. 20, 1630-31 ; and by the favourable di- 
 ion of the wind, the Hall was saved in the great fire of 1834. 
 At the coronation-feast of Richard II. (July 16, 1377), Sir John 
 ymock, as successor of the Marmions, and in right of his wife, Mar- 
 }t de Ludlow, claiming the privilege by his tenure of the manor of 
 velsby, in Lincolnshire, having chosen the best charger save one in 
 king's stables, and the best suit of harness save one in the royal ar- 
 oury, rode in armed to the teeth, and challenged, as the king's chatn- 
 ion/all opposers of the young monarch's title to the crown ; this pic- 
 ue ceremony was last performed at the coronation of George IV. 
 Haydon, the historical painter, describes the Coronation Festival of George 
 , (Autobiography, vol. ii.), which he witnessed from the Chamberlain's box: 
 The Hall doors were opened, and the flower-girls entered, strewing flowers, 
 distant trumpets and shouts of the people, the slow march, and at last the 
 ranee of the King, crowned and under a golden canopy, and the universal 
 
 t of the assembly at seeing him, affected everybody After the ban- 
 
 ; was over,* came the most imposing scene of all, the championship, 
 ellington, in his coronet, walked down the Hall, cheered by the officers of 
 Guards. He shortly returned, mounted, with Lords Anglesea and Howard, 
 rode gracefully to the foot of the throne, and then backed out. The Hall 
 opened again; and outside, in twilight, a man in dark-shadowed armour 
 red against the shining sky. He then moved, passed into darkness under 
 arch, and suddenly Wellington, Howard, and the champion stood in full 
 , with doors closed behind them. This was certainly the finest sight of the 
 The herald then read the challenge ; the glove was thrown down. They 
 then proceeded to the throne." 
 
 Westminster Hall is called the Great Hall, to distinguish it from the 
 ittle or Lesser Hall, the House of Commons after the fire of 1834. The 
 reat Hall is erroneously stated to be the widest in Europe without any 
 
 * Among the items of the feast itself were 1700 Ibs. of meat, 3000 fowls, 
 " dozens of wine, 10,000 plates, and 17,000 knives and forks. 
 
766 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 intermediate support, for there are two roofs in Italy which surpass it. 
 The next largest ancient apartment in England is the dormitory at- 
 tached to the great monastery of Durham. 
 
 WHITECHAPEL, 
 
 "A. very extraordinary spacious street, between Whitechapel Bars 
 (to which the freedom reaches) W., and the road to Mile-end E." (Hat- 
 ton, 1708). It was, until the termination of the Eastern Counties Rail-.' 
 way, the great Essex road : hence its numerous inns, some with old 
 galleried yards. Upon the south side, west end, among the butchers' ' 
 shops, is No. 76, a picturesque house-front, bearing the Prince of 
 Wales's feathers and H. S. (Henry Stuart), the arms of Westminster, 
 the fleur-de-lis of France, and the thistle of Scotland. On the north 
 side was a prison for debtors, in the manor of Stepney, under o/. per 
 annum, of which there is in the Beaufoy Collection a Token, 1656 ; also 
 a Whitechapel pawnbroker's Token, thought to be unique. Defoe lived 
 here in safety during the Great Plague year; and he describes the 
 richer sort of people thronging out of town from the City by this road, 
 with their families and servants. Whitechapel contains 213 streets, and 
 nearly 5000 inhabited houses : it has been sanitorily improved of late, 
 especially by the furnaces of the factories consuming their own smoke. 
 In Wentworth-street are the Model Baths and Wash-houses, esta- 
 blished 1845. St. Mary's Church, Whitechapel, is described at page 
 146. Here was the offensive altar-piece, painted by W. Fellowes, in 
 which Judas the traitor greatly resembled Dean Kennet (see the 
 print in the Society of Antiquaries' Library) : the picture is now in 
 St. Alban's Abbey-church, and attributed to Sir James Thornhill. In 
 Colchester-street, Leman-street, in 1854, was burnt the house No. 1, 
 built 1667, and noted as the rendezvous of Claude Duval, the highway- 
 man. Near the lower end of Whitechapel-lane was a Roman cemetery, 
 in which was found, in 1776, a monumental stone inscribed to a soldier 
 of the 24th legion. In 1854, there was living in the Whitechapel -road 
 a corn-dealer aged 107, active in business as a man of 60. At No. 
 267 Whitechapel-road is the Bell-foundry of Chas* and Geo. Mears, 
 where have been cast upwards of 188,000 single bells : they have often 
 30 tons of molten metal in their furnaces. Here were cast, in 1835, 
 "the New Great Tom of Lincoln," 5 tons 8 cwt.; the Great Bell of 1 
 Montreal, 13 tons 10 cwt. ; Great Peter of York, 11 tons; the bells of , 
 the New Royal Exchange, &c. 
 
 WHITECROSS-STREET, 
 
 In the Ward of Cripplegate, is named from a white cross that stood 
 formerly at the upper end of the street, mentioned in a presentment of > 
 1275. Here is the City Prison (see page 631) ; and the Green Yard, , 
 where is kept the Lord Mayor's State-Coach (see page 688). " White- j 
 cross-street and Wood-street were the last in the City to surrender j 
 their sign-boards; they retained them till 1773." /. H. Burn. 
 
 WHITEFRIARS, 
 
 The streets, lanes, and alleys between Water-lane (now Whitefriars- 
 street) and the Temple, and Fleet-street and the Thames ; formerly 
 the site of the house and gardens of a convent of Carmelites, or White 
 Friars, founded by Sir Richard Gray in 1241, upon ground given by ; 
 King Edward I. The church was rebuilt by Hugh Courtenay, Earl of , 
 Devon, about 1350 ; and Robert Marshall, Bishop of Hereford, about 
 1420, added the steeple, as shown in the Sutherland View of London, |j 
 1543. Stow gives a long list of benefactors and nobles buried in the 
 
WHITEHALL. 767 
 
 church. At the Reformation, the chapter-house was given by Henry 
 VIII. to his physician, Dr. Butts. In the next reign, the church, with 
 its stately tombs, was demolished; and in its place were "many fair 
 houses built, lodgings for noblemen and others" (Stoic). Here lived Sir 
 John Cheke, Tutor and Secretary of State to Edward VI. The hall 
 or refectory of the dissolved monastery was used as the Whitefriars 
 Theatre. The precinct had long possessed the privileges of sanctuary, 
 which were confirmed by charter of James I. in 1608; hence it became 
 
 )t stir out of Whitefryers :" one of its cant-named portions, Lombard- 
 rest (its " lewd women" were complained of by the Friars in the reign 
 Edward III.), exists to this day; as does Lombard-street in the South- 
 ark Mint. Poets and players were attracted to Whitefriars by the 
 ntiguous theatre in Dorset Gardens : dancing-masters and fencing- 
 asters flocked here ; and here, in the reign of James I., Turner the 
 icing-master was assassinated by two villains hired by Lord Sanquhar, 
 nose eye Turner had put out during a fencing-lesson several years 
 fore, but he had been forgiven the accident. The two assassins were 
 inged opposite Whitefriars gates in Fleet-street ; and Lord San- 
 ihar was hanged in Old Palace-yard. In the Friary-house, Selden 
 ed with Elizabeth, countess -dowager of Kent, who bequeathed him 
 e mansion : he died here, Nov. 30, 1654, and was buried in the Temple 
 hurch. The finest edition of Selden's works, by Wilkins, 3 vols. folio, 
 as printed in Whitefriars by William Bowyer, father and son; their 
 inting-office was the George Tavern, Dogwell-court, a scene in Shad- 
 ?ll's Squire ofAlsatia; in this house, William Bowyer, jun. was born 
 1699. The premises are now the printing-office of Messrs. Bradbury 
 d Evans, who maintain the excellence of their predecessors. Few 
 her traces of old Whitefriars remain. Hanging -Sword-alley, east of 
 ater-lane, is named from " a house called the Hanging Sword," men- 
 ned by Stow. In Temple-lane are the Whitefriars Glass-works. 
 tablished circ. 1700. 
 
 WHITEHALL, 
 
 lat part of Westminster which extends from near Charing Cro?s to 
 owning-street, and from the Thames to St. James's Park. This was 
 e site of the royal Palace of Whitehall from 3530 to 1697. It was 
 rmerly called York Place, from having been the town residence of 
 e Archbishops of York ; one of whom, Walter de Grey, purchased it 
 1248 from the Convent of Black Friars of Holborn, to which it had 
 en bequeathed by Hubert de Burgh, the Justiciary of England, and 
 mous minister of 'Henry III., who had bought the inheritance from 
 e monks of Westminster for 140 marks of silver. The property was 
 nveyed by Walter de Grey to his successors in the see of York. 
 ardinal Wolsey was the last Archbishop of York by whom the palace 
 as inhabited : he built extensively, and " lived a long season," here, 
 sumptuous state : 
 
 " Where fruitful Thames salutes the learned shore 
 
 Was this grave prelate and the muses plac'd, 
 And by those waves he builded had before 
 A royal house with learned muses grac'd, 
 But by his death imperfect and defac'd." 
 
 Storer's Metrical History of Wolsey, 1599. 
 
 >on the fall of Wolsey, in 1529, York Place was taken from him by 
 snry VIII., and the broken-hearted prelate left in his barge on the 
 anies for Esher. The name of the palace was then changed to White 
 
768 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Hall ;* possibly from some new buildings having been constructed of 
 white stone, at a time when bricks and timber were generally used.f 
 " You must no more call it York Place that is past: 
 For since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost ; 
 Tis now the King's, and call'd White Hall." 
 
 Shakspeare's King Henry Fill., act iv. BC. LI? 
 
 Here Henry and Anne Boleyn were married in a garret of the palace'* 
 and here their coronation took place. Henry built a noble stone galv 
 lery, from which, in 1539, he reviewed 15,000 armed citizens : from thi 
 gallery also the court and nobility witnessed the jousts and tournaM 
 ments in the Tilt-yard, now the parade-ground of the Horse Guardy. 
 The King " most sumptuously and curiously builded many beautiful, 
 costly, and pleasant lodgings, buildings, and mansions ;" and added a ten. 
 nis-court, bowling-alleys, and a cock-pit, "for his pastime and solacelS 
 
 The Palace was seven, years in building ; and in 1536 (the old palace 
 of Edward the Confessor having been in utter ruin and decay since 
 the fire in 1512), it was enacted by Parliament that all the ground, 
 mansion and buildings, the park, and the entire space between Charing 
 Cross and the Sanctuary at Westminster, from the Thames on the 
 east side to the park- wall westward, should be cleared and called the < 
 King's Palace of Westminster. Here the King assembled many pic- 
 tures, which afterwards became the nucleus of the splendid collect! <fl 
 of Charles I. Henry made munificent proposals to Raphael and Titian, 
 and the former painted for him a " St. George." The King also took 
 into his service Hans Holbein, and gave him apartments at Whitehall, i 
 with a pension, besides paying him for his pictures. Holbein built, j 
 opposite the entrance to the Tilt-yard, a magnificent Gate-house, of i 
 small squared stones and flint boulder, glazed and tesselated. OB ' 
 each front were four terra-cotta busts, naturally coloured, and gilt. 
 This gate was removed in 1750, when it was begged by William Duke I 
 of Cumberland, son of George II., with the intention of rebuilding it 
 in the Great Park at Windsor ; the stones were numbered for this pur- 
 pose, which was never fulfilled. Three of the busts, Henry VII. and 
 VIII. and Bishop Fisher, are now at Hatfield Priory, Essex. The Gate* 
 house was used as a State-Paper Office many years before its removal, 
 and was known as the Cockpit Gate. At Whitehall, on Dec. 30, 1546, I 
 Henry signed his will, and on Jan. 28 expired.} 
 
 Edward VI. held a Parliament here : 
 
 1553. " And this yere the furst day of (March was the) parlament, and kepte j 
 wythin thekyngespallys at Westmyster, Whythalle." Chron. Grey Friars Load. 
 Bishop Latimer preached before the Court in the Privy Garden, , 
 the King sitting at one of the palace windows. Queen Mary went i 
 from Whitehall by water to her coronation at Westminster, Elizabeth j 
 bearing the crown before her. Whitehall palace was attacked by Sir J 
 Thomas Wyatt's rebels, who *' shotte divers arrowes into the courte, j 
 
 * The " White Hall" was a name not unfrequently given by our ancestors to | 
 the festive halls of their habitations: there was a White Hall at Kenil worth; \ 
 and the Hall formerly the House of Lords was the White Hall of the royal I 
 Palace of Westminster, and is so called by Stow. 
 
 t Portland-stone, now employed in nearly all the public buildings of London, 
 was first used in the Whitehall Banqueiting-house. Portland Isle is a mass of : 
 freesrone rock, of which nearly 30,000 tons have been dug annually, in very t 
 large blocks : in Westminster Bridge are stones of 5 tons weight, and some have \-, 
 been dug 7 tons. Varieties of this stone soon become soft in the London at- ; 
 Biosphere; but in Portland are buildings upwards of three centuries old, in L 
 perfect condition. 
 
 J Thursday was a fatal day to Henry VIII., and so also to his posterity. He P 
 died on Thursday, Jan. 28. King Edward VI. on Thursday, July 6. Queen 
 Mary on Thursday, Nov. 17. Queen Elizabeth on Thursday, M'arch 24. Aubrey, j. 
 
WHITEHALL. 7G9 
 
 the gate beying open ;" and looking out over the gate, the Queen par- 
 doned the Kent men, with halters about their necks From the palace 
 the Princess Elizabeth was taken captive to the Tower on Palm Sun- 
 day, 1 554. At Whitehall, Nov. 13, 1555, died Gardiner, Bishop of Win- 
 chester and Lord Chancellor of England, at midnight, exclaiming : " I 
 have sinned, I have not wept with Peter." H^ntzner describes, in 
 1598, Elizabeth's library of Greek, Latin, Italian, and French books; 
 a little one in her own handwriting, addressed to her father ; and a 
 book of prayers written by Elizabeth in five languages, with her own 
 miniature and that of her suitor, the Due d'Anjou. In her 67th year, 
 " this day she appoints a Frenchman to doe feates upon a rope in the 
 conduit court. To-morrow she hath commanded the bears, the bull, 
 and the ape, to be bayted in the tilt-yard. Upon Wednesday she will 
 have solemn dawncing." (Rowland' White.) Elizabeth revived the 
 pageants and joustings at Whitehall ; and here she built " the Fortress 
 or Castell of perfect Beautie," a large wooden banqueting-house on the 
 north-west side of the palace. In 1561 Sackville and Norton's tragedv 
 Ferrex and Pollex was acted here by gentlemen of the Inner Temple, 
 the great gallery, Elizabeth received the Speaker and Common 
 ouse, when they came "to move her grace to marriage." On March 
 , 1603, " then deceased," from Richmond, " the Queen was brought 
 water to Whitehall." 
 
 In the Orchard of Whitehall the Lords in Council met; and in the 
 arderi, James 1. knighted 300 or 400 judges, sergeants, doctors-at- 
 w, &c. Here the Lord Monteagle imparted to the Earl of Salisbury 
 warning letter of the Gunpowder Plot ; and Guy Fawkes was 
 amined in the King's bedchamber, and carried hence to the Tower. 
 1617, when James visited Scotland, Lord Keeper Bacon resided at 
 hitehall. James I., in 1608, had "the old, rotten, slight-builded 
 anqueting House" removed, and next year rebuilt ; but it was de- 
 royed by fire in 1619. In this reign were produced many " most glo- 
 ous masques" by Inigo Jones and Ben Jonson ; and Inigo designed 
 new palace, the drawings for which are preserved in Worcester 
 allege, Oxford. 
 
 In magnitude, Inigo Jones's plan would have exceeded that of the palace of 
 ocletian, and would have covered nearly 24 acres. It was to have consisted 
 
 seven courts, and to have extended 874 feet fronting the Thames, and the 
 me length along the foot of St. James's Park: presenting one front to Charing 
 oss, of 1200 feet long; and another, the principal, of similar dimensions 
 wards Westminster Abbey. (See Fourdrinier's large print.) A more distinct 
 ea maybe formed of this extent by comparing it with that of other palaces: 
 us, Hampton Court covers 8 or 9 acres, St. James's 4, Buckingham 2 acres. 
 
 Of Jones's magnificent design, only the Banqueting- house was com- 
 eted. Charles I. commissioned Rubens to paint the ceiling, and by his 
 ency obtained the Cartoons of Raphael. In the Cabinet-room of 
 e palace, built also by Inigo Jones, fronting westward to Privy 
 arden, Charles assembled pictures of almost incalculable value ; the 
 yal collection containing 460 paintings, including 28 by Titian, 11 by 
 orreggio, 16 by Julio Romano, 9 by Raphael, 4 by Guido, and 7 by 
 armegiano. Upon the Civil War breaking out, Whitehall was seized 
 
 the Parliament, who, in 1645, had " the boarded masque-house" 
 lied down, sold great part of the paintings and statues, and burnt 
 e " superstitious pictures." Here, Jan. 29, 1649, in the Cabinet-room 
 larles last prayed ; in the Horn-chamber he was delivered to the offi- 
 rs, and thence led out to execution upon a scaffold in front of the 
 inqueting-house. (See page 166.) 
 
 Charles was taken on the first morning of his trial, Jan. 20, 1649, in a sedan- 
 lir, from Whitehall to Cotton House, where he slept pending his trial in West- 
 
 D D 
 
770 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 minster Hall ; after which the king returned to Whitehall ; but on the night 
 before his execution he slept at St. James's. On Jan. 30 he was " most barbarously 
 murthered at his own door, about two a clock in the afternoon." (Hislor. Guide, 
 3d imp., 1688.) Lord Leicester and Dugdale state that Charles was beheaded at 
 Whitehall gate. The scaffold *as erected in front of the Banqueting-house. in the 
 street now Whitehall; and Herbert states that the king was led out by "a pas- 
 sage broken through the wall," on to the scaffold ; but Ludlow states that it was 
 out of a window, according to Vertue, of a small building north of the Banquet- | 
 ing house, whence the king stepped upon the scaffold. A picture of the sad scene, ,>! 
 painted by Weesop, in the manner of Vandyke, shows the platform, extending 3 
 only in length, before two of the windows, to the commencement of the third ''] 
 casement. Weesop visited England from Holland in 1641, and quitted England v 
 in 1649, saying "he would never reside in a country where they cut off their >. 
 king's head, and were not ashamed of the action." 
 
 Cromwell, by vote of Parliament in 1650, had "the use of the \ 
 lodging called the Cockpit, of the Spring Garden, and St. James's 
 House, and the command of St. James's Park," for some time before | 
 he assumed the supreme power. To Whitehall, in 1653, April 20th, he 
 returned with the keys in his pocket, after dissolving the Long Parlia- | 
 ment, which he subsequently explained to the Little or Barebones J 
 Parliament assembled in the Council-chamber of Whitehall. Here the * 
 Parliament desired Cromwell to " magnify himself with the title of 
 King ;" here Milton was Cromwell's Latin Secretary, Andrew Marvell : 
 his frequent guest, with Waller his friend and kinsman, and some- 
 times the youthful Dryden. Cromwell repurchased the Cartoons and 
 many other pictures," and in 1656 Evelyn found the palace " very 
 glorious and well furnished." Here Cromwell expired, Sept. 3, 1658,^' 
 " the double day of victory and death." Richard Cromwell resided 
 here. Charles II., at the Restoration, came in grand procession of 
 seven hours from the City to Whitehall. To the Lords Commissioners 
 of the Treasury Charles assigned the Cockpit ; and in this locality . 
 their chambers have ever since remained. Charles collected by pro- j 
 clamation the plate, hangings, and paintings, which "had been pillaged 
 from the palace : he also built a stone gallery to flank Privy Garden, 
 and below it suites of apartments for his "Beauties." Evelyn describe* \ 
 the Duchess of Portsmouth's apartment, " twice or thrice pulled down { 
 and rebuilt to satisfy her prodigal and expensive pleasures;" its French \ 
 tapestry, " Japan cabinets, screens, pendule clocks, great vases of 1 
 wrought plate, table-stands, chimney-furniture, sconces, branches, : 
 brasenas, &c., all of massive silver, and out of number." Evelyn de- 
 scribes a Sunday evening in the palace : 
 
 " The king sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, Cleaveland, 
 and Mazarine, &c. ; a French boy singing love-songs in those glorious galleries; 
 whilst about twenty of the great courtiers and other dissolute persons were at i 
 basset round a large table, a bank of at least 2000/. in gold before them. Six days 
 after was all in the dust." 
 
 In Vertue's plan are shown the buttery, bakehouse, wood and j 
 coal yards, charcoal-house, spicery, cider-house ; and, beneath the Ban- 
 queting-house, the king's privy cellar. Owing to its low level, White- f 
 hall was liable to floods from* the Thames. Pepys, in 1663, records a | 
 high tide having drowned the whole palace; and Charles II., when he i 
 received the Lords and Commons in the Banqueting-hall at the Resto- ( 
 ration, desires them to mend the ways, so that his wife " may not find 
 Whitehall under water." 
 
 At Whitehall Charles collected about 1000 volumes, dedicated or 
 presented to him : including an illuminated Breviary given by Henry 
 VII. to his daughter, Margaret Queen of Scots, with his autograph; j 
 a curious MS. in high Dutch on the Great Elixir ; a French MS. 30 
 years old, with paintings of plants in miniature; and a journal, &c. in 
 
WHITEHALL. 771 
 
 the handwriting of Edward VI. Charles II. died at Whitehall, Feb. 6, 
 1685 ; and his successor was immediately proclaimed at the palace-gate. 
 James II. resided here : he washed the feet of the poor with his own 
 hands on Maundy Thursday in the Chapel Royal : here he admitted 
 Penn, the Quaker, to his private closet; and he rebuilt the chapel for 
 Romish worship, with marble statues by Gibbons, and a fresco by 
 Verrio. The King also erected upon the Banqueting-house a large 
 weathercock, that he might calculate by the wind the probable arrival 
 of the Dutch fleet. (See Canaletti's view.) On Dec. 18, 1688, James 
 left Whitehall in the state-barge, never to return. In 1691 a destruc- 
 tive fire reduced the palace to " nothing but walls and ruins :" 150 
 houses were burned down, and twenty blown up with gunpowder. 
 In 1697 a fire broke out in the laundry ; all the pictures in the palace 
 were destroyed, and twelve persons perished. The remaining por- 
 tions of the site of Whitehall were given away by the Crown. Charles 
 Duke of Richmond had a mansion on the south-east side of Privy Gar- 
 den : it was rebuilt from a plan by the Earl of Burlington, and was 
 burnt down in 1791 ; its site is now occupied by Richmond-terrace. 
 In Privy Garden was also built Pembroke House ; and subsequently, 
 Gwydir House, now the Office of the Poor-Law Board. 
 
 Gardens and Dials. The gardens were laid out in terraces and 
 parterres, and ornamented with marble and bronze statues, a few of 
 which are now at Hampton Court and Windsor. In Privy Garden 
 was a dial set up by Edward Gunter, professor of astronomy at 
 Gresham College (and of which he published a description), by com- 
 mand of James I., in 1624. A large stone pedestal bore four dials at 
 the four corners, and "the great horizontal concave" in the centre; 
 besides east, west, north, and south dials at the sides. In the reign of 
 Charles II. this dial was defaced by a drunken nobleman of the Court : 
 
 " This place for a dial was too unsecure, 
 
 Since a guard and a garden could not defend ; 
 For so near to the Court they will never endure 
 
 Any witness to show how their time they misspend." Marvell. 
 
 In the court-yard facing the Banqueting-house was another curious 
 I dial, set up in 1669 by order of Charles II. It was invented by one 
 Francis Hall, alias Lyne, a Jesuit, and professor of mathematics at Liege. 
 This dial consisted of five stages rising in a pyramidal form, and bearing 
 (several vertical and reclining dials, globes cut into planes, and glass 
 "jowls; showing, " besides the houres of all kinds," " many things also 
 elonging to geography, astrology, and astronomy, by the sun's shadow 
 lade visible to the eye." Among the pictures were portraits of the 
 ting, the two queens, the Duke of York, and Prince Rupert. Father 
 published a description of this dial, which consisted of seventy - 
 iree parts : it is illustrated with seventeen plates. (The details are 
 >ndensed in No. 400 of the Mirror.) About 1710, William Allingham, 
 mathematician in Canon-row, asked 500J. to repair this dial : it was 
 
 seen by Vertue at Buckingham House. 
 
 Remains of ancient Whitehall have been from time to time dis- 
 )vered. In 1831, Mr. Sydney Smirke, F.S.A., in the basement of 
 Cromwell House," Whitehall-yard, found a stone-built and groined 
 lor apartment undoubtedly a relic of Wolsey's palace, and corre- 
 iding with the wine-cellar in Vertue's plan, which is characteris- 
 illy larger than the chapel. Mr. Smirke also found a Tudor arched 
 >rway, with remains of the arms of Wolsey and the see of York in the 
 jndrels; a portion of the river-wall and circular bastions; and two 
 ne mullioned Tudor windows, at the back of the Almonry-office, 
 spending with the back wall of the apartments of " the Yeomen of 
 
772 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Wood-yard," in Vertue's plan. In 1847 were removed the last 
 remains of York House, a Tudor embattled doorway, which had been 
 built into a later facade of the Treasury. (Archeeologia, vol. xxv.) 
 
 Upon the site of the smaJl-beer cellar (engraved in No. 4 of Hollar's 
 prints of Whitehall) is the house of the Earl of Fife. Here were some 
 tine Gobelins tapestry; a marble picture of Mary Stuart, with her 
 infant ; and in Pennant's time here was a head of Charles 1. when Prince 
 of Wales, said to have been painted at Madrid by Velasquez, in 1625.* 
 The mansion was sold, in Ib09, for 12.000/. to the Earl of Liverpool, 
 who possessed it until his death in 1828. In an adjoining wall is the 
 Tudor arched entrance to the palace water-stairs. In Privy Garden 
 was the celebrated Museum formed by the Duchess of Portland : here 
 Pennant was shown a rich pearl surmounted with a crown, which was 
 taken out of the ear of Charles I. after his head was struck off: here 
 also was the Barberini or Portland Vase, purchased by the Duchess of 
 Sir William Hamilton for 1800 guineas. The museum was sold by 
 auction, in lots, April 24, 1786, when the vase was bought by the Duke 
 of Portland for 1029 guineas, and deposited by his grace in the British 
 Museum in 1810. (See page 523.) 
 
 In Whitehall Yard is the UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION MUSEUM, 
 described at page 545. No. 3 is the Office of the Comptroller General of 
 the Exchequer, where is held " the Trial of the Pyx." (See pp. 99 and 508.) ! 
 
 In H hitehall Gardens (till recently called by the old name, Privy 
 Garden) is MONTAGUE HOUSE (see page 491); No. 4 is LADY PEEL'S 
 (see page 493). No. 1 is the National Club House, where is a noble \ 
 saloon 80 feet in length, hung with large tapestry pictures in the man- i 
 ner of Teniers, of considerable age, yet fresh in colour. No. 7 is Pem- 
 broke House (formerly the Earl of Harrington's) : in 1854, it was fitted 
 up for the Minister-at-War. 
 
 WHITEHALL commences at Scotland-yard,^ named from its having 
 been the site of the palace " for receipt of the Kings of Scotland, when j 
 they came to the Parliament of England :*' here is Palace- row, and a large] 
 Conduit-house. Milton, when Latin Secretary to Cromwell, had apart- j 
 ments in Scotland-yard, where died the poet's infant son. The Crown j 
 Surveyor had his official residence in Scotland-yard ; and here lived Inigoj 
 Jones, Sir John Denham. and Sir Christopher Wren, who successivelyj 
 filled that offic-e. Here Sir John Vanbrugh built himself a house ^ut ofl 
 the ruins of Whitehall Palace : Swift has ridiculed the house of " brother 
 Van" for its resemblance to a goose-pie : Vanbrugh died here in 1726. 
 
 Near his house in Scotland-yard, Inigo Jones, uniting witti Nicholas Stone,; 
 the sculptor, buried his money in a private plate. " The Parlian ent published 
 an order encouraging servants to inform of such concealments; and as four of!/ 
 the workmen were privy to the deposit, Jones and his friend removed it privately,* 
 and with their own hands buried it in Lambeth Marsh." Life by Cunnn gham. j 
 
 On the west side of Whitehall are the Government Offices : tbflj 
 ADMIRALTY (see page 1); HORSE GUARDS (p. 377); TKEASURY (p. 742). 
 Next is Downing-street, (i between King-street E. and no thonnv fair 
 West" (Hatton). It was named from Sir George Downing, Bart., a 
 political " sider with all times and changes," who, after serving Crom4s 
 well, became Secretary to the Treasury under Charles II., 1667. AJB 
 the Revolution, the property, then belonging to Lee, Lord Lichfield^j 
 
 * In 1845, Mr. Snare, of Reading, bought at a sale of pictures at Radley Hall J 
 a painting which he believes to be "the lost portrait" of Prince Charles byJ 
 Velasquez, and so denoted by tlie Earl of Fife in his catalogue ot his pictures I 
 at File House, in 1798. (See Account of the Picture, &c. Reading 1847.) 
 
 t Northward, at No. 30 Charing Cross (now Parker & Co., military book- J 
 sellers), Thornton the poet took lodgings when he first arrived in London, witbH 
 the Ms. of his Winter : here he wrote part of his Summer. 
 
WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 773 
 
 was forfeited to the Crown. The largest house was, temp. George T., 
 the office of the Hanoverian minister, B?ron Bothmar, at whose death 
 the mansion was given by George to Sir Robert Walpole, " who, in 
 1735, would only accept it for his office of First Lord of the Treasury, 
 to which post he got it annexed for ever." (JEdes Walpnliance.} It has 
 accordingly since been the official residence of successive prime minis- 
 ters : here Lady Hester Stanhope received Mr. Pitt's guests: but the 
 rooms are ill adapted for state assemblies. The adjoining house has 
 been purchased within the present century, for the Foreign Office, Co- 
 lonial Office, and Office of the < 'hancellor of the Exchequer. To this 
 cul-de-sac a street of smaller houses was added : the south side was 
 taken down in 1828 : at the corner next King-street was the noted Cat 
 and Bagpipes, used as a chop-house in early life by George Rose, subse- 
 quently Secretary of the Treasury, and the originator of Savings-banks. 
 In one of the above mansions, in 1763, died Aubrey de Vere, last Earl of Oxford. 
 In the street lived, in 1723, John Boyle. Earl of Orrery, the friend of Swift and 
 contributor to The World anAConnoittenr. Here resided Boswell, the biographer 
 of Johnson ; and Lord Sheffield, the friend of Gibbon, the historian. 
 
 WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 
 
 The following are the more noteworthy specimens in the metro- 
 polis, most of which are incidentally noticed in describing the edifices 
 which contain them. First, in CHURCHES and CHAPELS: 
 
 All Saints', St. Johns Wood Chancel window, by Fairs : the head 
 filled with figures and foliage ; and the ten lights with emblematic de- 
 vices of the evangelists, and the eucharistic service. 
 
 All Saints', Margaret-street A large western Jesse window of 13 
 figures, ending with Christ crucified; painted by Gerente; the clere- 
 story windows by O'Connor: all constructed in the ancient manner. 
 St. Andrew's, Holborn A large east Palladian window in two stones, 
 Price, of York, in 1718, with the Last Supper and the Ascen- 
 lso two aisle windows, with arms, one dated 1637, and the 
 | other a memorial to Thavie, of 1348. 
 
 St. Barnabas', Queen-street, Pimlico All the windows are filled 
 | with scenes and incidents from the life of St. Barnabas, by Wailes. 
 
 St. Bride's, Fleet-street Large eastern window, the Descent from 
 (the Cross; copied by Muss, from Rubens's picture at Antwerp. 
 
 'This is a fine production, although it does not give a perfect idea of the 
 joriginal picture. The whole of the light is thrown upon the body of our Saviour, 
 jwhile the rest of the painting is quite obscure; producing the sort of effect that 
 JRembrandt would have given to the subject had he treated it, rather than that 
 jwith which Rubens has invested it. The fine group of women at the foot of the 
 
 is quite undiscoverable." Godwin's Churches of London. 
 St. Catherine's Cree, Leadenhall street East window, with Cathe- 
 rine-wheel mullions filled with brilliant glass ; above, the arms of Geo. I. 
 Christ Church, Woburn-square One of the finest modern windows, 
 representing Christ blessing little children, after Overbeck's print; 
 ind Moses giving the law to the Israelites, after Raphael. 
 
 St. Dunstari's in the West, Fleet-street Eight clerestory windows, in 
 of which is one of the letters of the architect's name, John Shaw. 
 'ointed altar-window, filled with subjects of antique design: full- 
 length figures of the Evangelists, with their names S. Mattheus, S. 
 Tarcus, S. Lucas, and S.Johannes: beneath which, respectively, 
 ..e, a curious monogram of the Trinity, the crown of thorns and the 
 lails, the spear and sponge upon a reed, and the Holy Lamb ; and 
 inder all is: J3fo et ercleslae frattes $oare ntcanmint, anno Domint 
 -tt&dlHtL These very fine windows are by Willement. When 
 old church of St. Dunstan was cleared away in 1830, a painted 
 
 . 
 
 painted by 
 Ision. Als 
 
774 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 window was sold for 41. 5s., and subsequently built into the Eliza- 
 bethan mansion at Gilston Park, Herts, which was taken down in 1853. 
 
 St. DunstarCs in the East, Tower-street East window, by Backler, 
 describing symbolically th6 Law and the Gospel; between two win- 
 dows by E. Baillie : Christ blessing little children, and the Adoration 
 of the Magi. The heads of the south-aisle windows contain arms of 
 ancient benefactors of the parish, with scriptural scrolls, by Baillie. 
 
 St. George's, Hanover-square Eastern window filled with painted 
 glass not later than 1520, and originally brought from Flanders : it has 
 been much repaired; and a head of a monarch, which antiquaries would 
 seize on as giving the date, is modern. The glass originally repre- 
 sented a Stem of Jesse, and occupied a window of three lights : Jesse 
 being at the foot of the second light, and above him Solomon, David, 
 the Virgin Mary, the Holy Ghost, and God the Father; left-hand light, 
 two prophets, and Isechias, Roboam, Argo, Jehosaphat, and Josias; 
 right hand, two prophets, and Joram, Achaz, Manasses, and Jechonias. 
 All these figures are in St. George's windows, except that of the 
 Father; which figure has been transformed into a bishop, and is now in 
 one of the windows of the new Byzantine church at Wilton, Wilts. 
 (See also p. 127.) 
 
 St. George's. Southwark Eastern Venetian window : whole-length 
 of the Saviour, by Backler. 
 
 St. George's Roman Catholic Church, Lambeth Great western 
 window, containing figures of SS. George the Martyr, Richard, Ethel- 
 bert, Oswald, Edmund, and Edward the Confessor, with angels bear- 
 ing scrolls and instruments. Great east window of nine lights, by 
 Wailes, representing the Root of Jesse, or the genealogy of our Lord: 
 the gift of the Earl of Shrewsbury. Three side windows, with figures 
 of SS. George, Stephen, and Lawrence, by Hard man, under canopies, 
 with angels bearing crowns and laurels. The windows of the aisles 
 will also be eventually filled with painted glass. The Petre Chantry 
 has three two-light windows, by Hardman, containing figures of St. 
 George, our Blessed Lady, St. Edward the Confessor, St. Lawrence, 
 St. Robert, and St. Germanus. 
 
 St. Giles's, Cambencell East window, 13th-century style, a fine 
 specimen of the symbolism of religious art; nave window, arms of the 
 vicar and his wife, chiefly ancient glass imported from Cologne, with 
 modern additions ; south' transept window, with figures of St. Peter 
 and St. Paul, and sacred symbols. (This and the preceding are gris- 
 ailles, i. e. windows with a white ground relieved by a running decora- 
 tive pattern in positive colours : as distinguished from mosaiques (such 
 as the chancel window), when the ground is of the same quality with 
 the figures.) Also transept memorial window, with canopied figures- 
 of Moses and Christ, the donor's arms, and inscription : the modern 
 glass by Ward and Nixon. 
 
 Immaculate Conception (Roman-Catholic) Church, Farm-street, 
 Berkeley-square, has several fine works. East, a Jesse window: inj 
 the base of the centre opening is Jesse seated (usually represented re- 
 cumbent) ; and from him springs a stem encircling in each opening one . 
 of the kings, the Virgin and Child immediately above Jesse. The 
 tracery is fil'ed with subjects from the history of the Virgin, and 
 adoring angels. Immediately over the centre is a wall-painting of the 
 Immaculate Conception. West, a Passion Window, containing em- 
 blems of our Lord's Passion, as the cross, dice, &c. The stonework 
 is very fine. The side windows are chiefly filled with angels bearing 
 crosses and palm-branches. The several windows were donations, and 
 were painted by W r ailes. 
 
 St. James's,* Piccadilly A. two-storied east window. In 1809, Back- 
 
WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS, 775 
 
 ler proposed to fill this window with a copy of Raphael's picture of the 
 Transfiguration ; John Martin next suggested the Baptism of the Saviour 
 in Jordan ; and the Birth and Death of our Saviour were then designed, 
 in the modern style, by Corbould. But the Bishop of London pre- 
 ferred a more ancient style of art; and the window was filled by Wailes, 
 in 1846, with the Resurrection and Ascension, the Agony and Bloody 
 Sweat, the Passion, and the Bearing of the Cross. The borders are 
 Italian, from Raffaelle, J. Romano, and others. 
 
 St. John the Evangelist's, Westminster. The eastern window re- 
 presents our Lord bearing his cross, and is said to have been brought 
 from an ancient church at Rouen in Normandy. 
 
 St. John's of Jerusalem, South Hackney Chancel windows, with 
 incidents in the life of our Saviour, figures of the apostles, &c.. by 
 Wailes. Transept windows by Powell, representing Abraham offer- 
 ing up Isaac, and scenes in the life of Moses; and richly-diapered glass. 
 Aisle windows, diapered and painted by Wailes and Castell. Clere- 
 story memorial window, Christ blessing little children, and raising 
 Jairus's daughter ; and two other windows by Ward and Nixon. Also 
 figures of Elias and John the Baptist ; the Royal arms of England, 
 and the arms of the sees of Canterbury, London, &c., by Powell. 
 
 St. Catherine's, Hegenfs Park, contains some very fine specimens 
 of heraldic decorations. 
 
 St. Leonard's, Shoreditch, has an eastern window, 1634. The sub- 
 ject is the Last Supper : to the bread and wine usually placed per se 
 on the table, the artist has added several articles, one of which has 
 often been mistaken for a little pig, but represents a young kid. Had 
 it been a pig, (to the Jews) forbidden food, it is averred that the painter 
 might in justification have quoted the vision of St. Peter (Acts x. 12-15); 
 for that, therefore, the pig was no longer prohibited by the law. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Chapel windows are filled with glass, principally 
 painted by Bernard and Abraham Van Linge, Flemish artists, between 
 1623 and 1626 : others were executed " by Mr. Hall, a glass-painter in 
 Fetter-lane ; and in point of colour are as'rich as the richest decorated 
 glass of the best period." (Winston on Glass-Painting.} South side: 
 three windows of four lights, each filled with a saint and his attribute, 
 canopied and inscribed, surrounded by angels bearing the crests of the 
 arms emblazoned upon the pedestals of the figures. North side : three 
 windows of four lights, filled with King David playing the harp, Moses 
 and the Prophets, St. John the Baptist, and St. Paul. The great east- 
 ern and western windows are filled with arms: in the latter are the 
 arms of Henry Shirfield, Recorder of Salisbury, who was prosecuted 
 and severely fined by the Star Chamber for breaking a painted window 
 at Salisbury. (See State Trials, vol.i. p. 339.) The arms of his oppo- 
 nent, Noy, then Attorney-general of Charles I., are also in the Chapel. 
 The several arms are minutely described in Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn. 
 
 St. Margaret's, Westminster East window, a very fine specimen of 
 glass-painting temp. Henry VII I., and said to have been presented by 
 the magistrates of Dort, in Holland, to Henry VII., whom the kneel- 
 ing effigy of the king more resembles than his son. But the patron 
 saintess, St. Catherine, over the kneeling figure of the queen, and the 
 badge of the pomegranate in the tracery light, rather point to Henry 
 V11I. than his father. It is possible that the king died before the win- 
 dow was completed, and that it was finished from a likeness of Henry 
 VII. with which the people of Dort provided the painter. The glass 
 is clearly of the time of Henry VIII. and not Henry VII., and is as late 
 as 1526 ; but has been retouched, probably when put up in the church 
 in 1758. The principal subject represented is the Crucifixion. Mr. 
 Rickman, however, regarded the kneeling figures as Prince Arthur and 
 
776 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Princess Catherine ; which is scarcely reconcilable with the arched 
 crown on the male head. (See also pages" 136 and 137.) 
 
 St. Mary's, Herne Hill All the windows filled: east, the four evan- 
 gelists ; north and south, .arms of the archbishop, the bishop, &c. ; 
 west, arms of Her Majesty, Prince Albert, and Queen Dowager; aisle 
 windows, arms of subscribers. 
 
 St. Mary's. Rotherhithe^neast window by Collins, with a whole- 
 length of St. Mary the Virgin. 
 
 St. Mary's, West Brompton, a picturesque church (G. Godwin, 
 F.S.A., architect), contains a fine memorial window, by Wailes, to Mr. 
 Robert Gunter, donor of the church-site. 1853. The window, in three 
 principal compartments, is painted with the Ascension ; the figures 
 and colouring are fine: the oriels are filled with tracery and angels 
 bearing scrolls. 
 
 St. Mary's, Wyndham-place, Marylebone East window, the As- 
 cension : poorly executed, though it cost 2-'.Ol. 
 
 St. Stephen's, Rochester-row, Westminster Windows by Wailes, re- 
 presenting scenes in the life of St. Stephen, in which the rude quaint- 
 ness of early glass-painting is faithfully imitated. 
 
 St. Stephen s, Walbrooh Altar window erected in place of West's 
 picture of the stoning of St. Stephen, and presented by the Grocers' 
 Company, in 1852. The window was designed and executed by Wille- 
 ment, in the Roman style adopted by Raphael : central subjects, the 
 ordination and stoning of St. Stephen ; sides, the four evangelists, 
 with their emblems; semicircular top, the figure of our Saviour, angels 
 in devotional attitudes, and the Lamb bearing the banner of the cross. 
 
 St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster, reputed to ha^e been founded 
 by King Stephen, rebuilt after the fire of 1298 by Edward I., and 
 restored by Edward II. and III., had its windows filled with glass 
 painted by John de Chester, at the weekly wages of 7*. ! The Account 
 Rolls, '.'5th and 26th Edward III., contain items of blue, red, and azure 
 glass: drawings of several images; painters on glass, at Id. per day: 
 silver filings, geet (jet), arnement (orpiment, or yellow arsenic), among 
 the painting materials. In 1548, the Chapel was fitted up for the Com- 
 mons' House of Parliament; and when, in 1809, the window was enlarged, 
 it was discovered that the elegant tracery of the windows had been 
 painted with the stories of Adam and Eve; of Noah and his Family; of 
 Abraham, Joseph, and the Israelites; and of the life of our Saviour. 
 Temple Church "Windows in the ancient manner, by Willement, 
 described at page 163. Window in the. " Round," next the door, fine. 
 
 Westminster Abbey (see page 112) Five only of the original win- 
 dows remain, three of the apsis over St. Edward's Chapel, and two at 
 the west ends of the side aisles. The former, coeval with the architec- 
 ture, represent: 1. Our Saviour and the Virgin Mary; 2. St. Augus- 
 tine and Bishop Mellitus ; 3. Edward the Confessor giving his ring to 
 the pilgrim. One of the small windows is in the north tower, and 
 represents an ecclesiastic ; the other, in the south tower, Edward the 
 Black Prince (so says Walpole). in plate-armour, beneath a canopy, 
 bearing a lance, and long sword by his side, and asurcoat with the arms 
 of France and England, quarterly : below his feet are the Lancastrian 
 rose, and the arms of Edward 'the Confessor. The north window, 
 date 1722, represents in its sixteen compartments our Saviour and the 
 Eleven, and the Evangelists. The west window, date 1735, has in the 
 upper row Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; next, seven of Jacob's sons; 
 and beneath are five more, Moses and Aaron. The arms are those of 
 George II., in the centre; King Sebert, Queen Elizabeth, Dean Wil- 
 cocks, and the College of Westminster. " There are many fragments 
 of glass, coats of arms, &c. of the time of Edward I.," says Mr. Win- 
 
WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 777 
 
 ston, " in the three east clerestory windows ; but without going to the 
 triforium, it is impossible to distinguish them from the fragments of all 
 dates with which they are surrounded : the large figures in these win- 
 dows are of the 15th century. The west window of the south aisle 
 contains a large figure, much broken (face modern), of the time of 
 Richard II. Henry the Seventh's Chapel contains remains of its ori- 
 ginal glazing: one of the figures in a clerestory window is entire." 
 (Communication.} Here a stray rose and a stray'letter ($) occasionally 
 occur. The crowns in bushes (Richard III. at Bosworth) have long 
 since disappeared. 
 
 Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate-street Oriel window with arms, executed 
 and presented by Willement; including the arms and badges of St. 
 elen's Priory, Sir John Crosby, Richard III., Sir Thomas More, the 
 ouse of York, " the rich Spencer," &c. The other windows are simi- 
 irly enriched. 
 
 Field of Cloth- of -Gold, the largest specimen of modern Glass- 
 ainting, was exhibited at No. 15 Oxford-street, in 1830. 
 
 The subject was the Tournament of the Field ofCloth-of-Gold, between Henry 
 [II. and Francis I., at Ardres; the last tourney, June 25, 1520 : painted by Tho- 
 as Wilmshurst (the horses by Woodward), from a sketch by R. T. Bone. This 
 indow was 432 square feet, or 18 by 24 feet; and consisted of 350 pieces, fitted 
 to metal astragals, falling with the shadows, so that the whole picture appeared 
 i entire sheet of glass : it was exhibited in a first-floor room, decorated in the taste 
 the time of Henry VIII. The picture was composed from the details of Hall's 
 ironicle, and contained upwards of 100 life-size figures (40 portraits, mostly 
 'ter Holbein): including the two Queens, Wolsey, Anne .Boleyne, and the 
 ountess of Chateaubriant ; Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk; Queen Mary, 
 owager of France; the ill fated Duke of Buckingham, &c. The gorgeous 
 semblage of costume, gold and jewels, waving plumes, glittering arms, velvet, 
 mine, and cloth-of-gold, with heraldic emblazonry, picturesquely managed, 
 he work cost the artist 3000/. On the night of Jan. 31, 1832, the house was 
 estroyed in an accidental fire, and with it the picture ; not even a sketch or 
 udy was saved, and the property was wholly uninsured. 
 
 Guildhall, King-street, Cheapside The upper compartments of the 
 reat pointed arched east and west windows are enriched bv stained 
 nd painted glass, mostly modern. In the east window are the Royal 
 rms and supporters, with the stars and jewels of the Orders of the 
 arter, Bath, Thistle, and St. Patrick; west window, the City arms 
 id supporters. When these windows are illuminated with gas from 
 he exterior, the effect in the hall is very gorgeous. 
 
 Inns of Court The Inner Temple Hall has but few heraldic 
 nrichments in its windows.* The windows of the Middle Temple 
 r all contain an almost perfect series of coats of arms of distin- 
 uished members, from Queen Elizabeth to the present reign : in the 
 reat bay-windows are conspicuous the arms of Hardwicke and 
 
 Among the insignia are the arms of the Inner Temple, a horse striking the 
 rth with his hoof, or " a Pegasus luna on a field argent;" assumed in the fifth 
 
 ear of the reign of Elizabeth, by the advice of Master Gerard Lee, a herald of the 
 urt, who was also a member of this Inn : the Society, though not entitled to 
 
 rms, as not being a corporation, yet had been so long established that the Col- 
 ge of Heralds did not object. He also emblazoned them with precious stones 
 id planets, " as bye truly honourable societies they are often thereunto now." 
 aster Lee suggested such singular arms, as signifying that the knowledge 
 
 cquired at this learned seminary would raise the professors of the law to the 
 
 ighest honours, adding by way of motto, Volat ad cethera virtus; and he in- 
 nded to allude to what are esteemed the more liberal sciences, by giving them 
 
 egasus forming the fountain of Hippocrene, by striking his hoof against the 
 ck, as a proper emblem of lawyers becoming poets, as Chaucer and Gower, the 
 thers of English poetry, were both of the Inner Temple. Their other device is 
 more ancient origin. 
 
778 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Somers; and opposite, those of Tenterden and Gifford, Eldon and 
 Stow ell. Lincoln's Inn has some fine heraldic glass, described at 
 pages 410 and 411. Gray's Inn Hall has its windows richly embla- 
 zoned with arms; those- of Burghley, Verulam, Sir Nicholas Bacon, 
 and Jenkins, being conspicuous in the large and lofty bay-window. 
 The Hall of Staple Inn has also a collection of armorial glass. 
 
 Jerusalem Chamber, Westminster Abbey Remains of painted glass, 
 temp. Henry VIII. and somewhat later (arms of Henry, and badges of 
 some of his queens), in the windows of the passages and the ante-room. 
 In the large north window of the chamber, in medallions, are the arms 
 of the see of Lincoln, College of Westminster, and others, with seven 
 small historical and scriptural subjects, referred to Richard II. 's 
 reign. This is believed to be the oldest painted glass in London the 
 last half of the 12th century. Some of the glass has lately been repaired. 
 
 Lambeth Palace The Great Hall, now the Library, contains spe- 
 cimens of olden glass collected from different parts of the house : they 
 are described at page 444. The windows of the Picture Gallery con- 
 tain the arms of many of the primates : in the bay-window are thei 
 arms of the Protestant Archbishops, from Cranmer to Cornwallis. 
 
 The Chapel windows, now filled with Powell's modern pressed glass, conn 
 tained before the Civil Wars finely painted glass, bearing the device of Cardinal* 
 Morton, illustrating the History of Man from the Creation to the Day of Judg-j 
 ment, three lights in a window. The two side-lights contained the types in thq 
 Old Testament, and the middle light the anti-type and verity of the' New: thcJ 
 outer chapel had two windows with the Day of Judgment; there was also repre- 
 sented the Crucifixion. Archbishop Laud, at his coming to Lambeth, fount | 
 these windows " shameful to look on, all diversly patched, like a poor beggar*tj 
 coat," and repaired them; when it was alleged against Laud, "that he did^ 
 repair the story of those windows by their like in the Mass-book:" but this Lauc 
 denied, affirming that he and his secretary made out the story as well as theji 
 could by the unbroken remains. The windows were defaced May 1, 1643. 
 
 Archbishop Laud, in his Defence, mentions these " harmless goodljj 
 windows," as "set up new long since that statute of Edward VI." 
 
 Listuwel House, Knightsbridge, contains in the conservatory's! 
 large window representing a garden scene, painted by John Martin, a 
 pupil of Charles Muss, the celebrated enamel-painter. 
 
 Northumberland House, Strand, contains a copy of Martin's Bel-| 
 shazzar's Feast, executed by Hoadley and Oldfield for Collins; cosH 
 400 guineas : it fills a cheval fire-screen. 
 
 Pedlar (the), St. Mary's Church, Lambeth, the painting in the mid- j 
 die aisle window, is described at page 145. 
 
 Soane Museum, No. 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields Several specimens oil 
 ancient painted glass, chiefly scriptural subjects. Also the figure oH 
 Charity, executed by Collins'from the celebrated window at New Col- < 
 lege, Oxford, designed and presented by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1777. $ 
 
 St. Stephen's Porch, at the south end of Westminster Hall, has a larg( 
 window by Hardman, representing the arms of the sovereigns of Eng-t 
 land, from William the Conqueror to the present time; a very brilliani , 
 combination of coloured and white glass. (See PAULIAMENT HOUSES.) ] 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS (THE), 
 
 Upon the north-west side of the Regent's Park, consist of a triangula-1 
 garden south of the outer road, and a northern garden upon the bank f 
 of the Regent's Canal : they are connected by a tunnel beneath th 
 road, and their extent is about 17 acres. The soil being originally th 
 London clay very near the surface, was cold and damp, and caused grea 
 mortality among the animals of the Menagerie j but the whole has bee 
 thoroughly drained and tastefully planted. 
 
ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS. 779 
 
 The Zoological Society was instituted in 1826, " for the general ad- 
 vancement of zoological science." It had been proposed 
 
 " The great objects should be, the introduction of new varieties, breeds, and 
 races of animals, for the purpose of domestication or for stocking our farm- 
 yards, woods, pleasure-grounds, and wastes; with the establishment of a general 
 zoological collection, consisting of prepared specimens in the different classes 
 and orders, so as to afford a correct view of the Animal Kingdom at large, in as 
 complete a series as may be practicable; and at the same time point out the ana- 
 logies between the animals already domesticated and those which are similar in 
 character, upon which the first experiments may be made. * * * * Should 
 the Society nourish and succeed, it will not only be useful in common life, but 
 would likewise promote the best and most extensive objects of the Scientific His- 
 tory of Animated Nature, and offer a collection ot living animals such as never 
 yet existed in ancient or modern times." Prospectus, privately circulated, 1824. 
 
 Among the founders of the Society were Sir Stamford Raffles, Sir 
 Humphry Davy, Earl Darnley, Sir Everard Home, Mr. Davies Gilbert, 
 Dr. Horsfield, the Rev. W. Kirby, Mr. Sharpe Macleay, and Mr. N. A. 
 Vigors ; and into the new Society merged the Zoological Club. At 
 ie same time was commenced the formation of a Museum, at No. 33 
 niton-street, with the magnificent collection of Sir S. Raffles. A 
 lot of ground in the Regent's Park was granted to the Society by 
 ie government, and laid out by Decimus Burton, who also built the 
 rst houses and inclosures for the animals. Sir Francis Chantrey took 
 reat interest in the Society, and the embellishment of the Gardens, 
 n 1827, the lake in the Park, with its islands and water-fowl, and a 
 te for breeding and rearing, were likewise granted to the Society ; 
 ad the Gardens were first opened to the public in 1828, by members' 
 rders, and one shilling each person ; and during seven months there 
 ere upwards of 30,000 visitors r there were in the Menagerie 430 ani- 
 lals; and the year's expenses were 10,OOOZ. 
 
 Among the earliest tenants of the Menagerie were a pair of emeus 
 om New Holland ; two Arctic bears and a Russian bear ; a herd of 
 angaroos; Cuban mastiffs and Thibet watch-dogs ; two llamas from 
 eru ; a splendid collection of eagles, falcons, and owls; a pair of bea- 
 ers ; cranes, spoonbills, and storks ; zebras and Indian cows ; Esqui- 
 aux dogs ; armadilloes ; and a collection of monkeys. To the Mena- 
 erie have since been added an immense number of species of Mammalia 
 nd Birds, lists of which are appended to the several annual Reports. 
 ] o these was added, in 1849, a collection of Reptiles ; and in 1853, a 
 Election of Fish, Mollusca, Zoophytes, and other Aquatic Animals. 
 mong the royal donors to the collection are the Emperor of Russia, 
 ie late Queen of Portugal, the Viceroy of Egypt, and Queen Victoria. 
 i 1830, the menagerie collected by George IV. at Sandpit-gate, Wind- 
 )r, was removed to the Society's Gardens ; and in 1834 the last of the 
 'ower Menagerie was received here. The collection was also enriched 
 y purchases from the menagerie of the late Earl of Derby (long Presi- 
 ent of the Zoological Society), at Knowsley. It is now the finest 
 ublic Vivarium in Europe. 
 
 The Menagerie has been illustrated by W. Harvey, in 2 vols. 8vo; 
 ith descriptions by E. T. Bennett, late Vice- Secretary of the Society. 
 j| A picturesque description of the Gardens is appended to Landseer's 
 'haracteristic Sketches of Animals, edited by John Barrow, 1832. See 
 so the Guide-book and Plan of the Gardens, and the Reports, Proceed- 
 gs, and Catalogues, printed for the Society. 
 
 The Museum in 1841 was valued at 10,965Z., and was then removed 
 
 Ipm Leicester-square to Broad-street, Golden-square. An extensive 
 
 llection of birds and insects was bequeathed by the first Secretary, 
 
 A. Vigors, who died in 1840. The MUSEUM, now in the south 
 Lrden, is described at page 546. 
 
780 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 We have only space to enumerate a few of the principal an'mals in 
 the Gardens : Alligators, a pair of the North American species, cap- 
 tured in Carolina. Antelopes, the great family of, finely represented. 
 The beautiful Elands were bequeathed by the late Earl "of Derby, and 
 have bred freely since their arrival in 1851. The Leucoryx is the first 
 of her race born out of Africa. Ant-eaters, Giant : the first was brought 
 to England from Brazil in 1853, and was exhibited in Broad-streetj 
 St. Giles's, until purchased by the Zoological Society for 200/. (See an 
 admirable paper by Professor Owen, Literary Gazette, No. 1916/ 
 Apteryx, or Kiwi bird, from New Zealand; the first living specimen 
 brought to England of this rare bird. The Aquatic Vivarium, built ot 
 iron and glass, in 1853, in the south garden, consists of a series of glass 
 tanks, in which fish spawn, zoophytes produce young, and algae luxuri- 
 ate; Crustacea and mollusca live successfully, and ascidian polypes are 
 illustrated, together with sea anemones, jelly-fishes and star-fishes. 
 rare shell-fishes, &c. : a new world of animal life is here seen as in the 
 depths of the ocean, with masses of rock, sand, gravel, corallines, sea- 
 weed, and sea-water ; the animals are in a state of natural restlessness 
 now quiescent, now eating and being eaten. Aurochs, or Europear. 
 Bisons: a pair presented by the Emperor of Russia, in 1847, from th< 
 forest of Bialowitzca: the male died in 1848, the female in 1849 
 from pleuro-pneumonia. Sears: the collection is one of the largest 
 ever made. Elephants: including an Indian elephant calf and itu 
 mother. In 1847 died here the great Indian elephant Jack, having 
 been in the gardens sixteen years. Adjoining the stable is a tank 01 
 water, of a depth nearly equal to the height of a full-grown elephant* 
 In 1851 the Society possessed a herd of four Elephants, besides a hippo-< 
 potamus, a rhinoceros, and both species of tapir; being the largest 
 collection of pachydermata ever exhibited in Europe. Deer, several 
 species: the reindeer and wapiti have produced several fawns. Fla( 
 mingoes, a numerous group. Giraffes: four received in 1836 cost tlnd 
 Society upwards of 2300/., including 1000/. for steamboat passage! 
 the female produced six male fawns here between 1840 and 18511 
 Hippopotamus, a young male (the first living specimen seen in Engj 
 land), received from Egypt in May 1850, when ten months old, sefl 
 feet long, and six and a half feet in girth; also a female hippoJ 
 potamus, received 1854 : thev are provided with a bath. Humming! 
 birds: Mr. Gould's matchless" collection of 2000 examples was exhibited 
 here in 1851 and 1852. Iguanas, two from Cuba and CarthageMJ 
 closely resembling, in everv thing but size, the fossil Iguanodon Tb<3 
 Lions number generally from eight to ten, including a pair of cubs bonl 
 in the gardens, in 1853; a pair of fine Indian lions, received in !& 
 a noble old Nubian lion and lioness. Orang-utan and Chimpanzee* 
 the purchase-money of the latter sometimes exceeds 30U/. The oranj>j 
 " Darby," brought from Borneo in 1851, is the finest yet seen in Eu j 
 rope, very intelligent, and docile as a child. Parrot-houses, thej 
 sometimes" contain from sixty to seventy species. Rapacious Birdtq 
 so extensive a series of eagles and vultures has never yet been se&\ 
 at one view. The Reptile- house was fitted up in 1849; the creature'* 
 are placed in large plate-glass cases: here are pythons and a rattkj 
 snake, with a young one born here; here is also a case of the treej 
 frogs of Europe : a yellow snake from Jamaica has produced eigt) ( 
 young in the gardens. Arab Serpent- Charmers exhibited here, r J 
 1850, their feats with a group of cobras. Cobra de Capello, froil, 
 India : in 1852, a keeper in the gardens was killed by the bite of th 
 serpent. A large Boa in 1850 swallowed a blanket, and disgorge 
 it in thirty-three days. A one-horned Rhinoceros, of continent; 
 India, was obtained in 1834, when it was about four years old, an 
 
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS (THE SURREY). 781 
 
 weighed 26 cwt.; it died in 1850: it has been replaced by a female, 
 
 about five years old. Satin Boicer-Birds, from Sydney : a pair have 
 
 built here a bower, or breeding-place. Tapir of the Old World, from 
 
 Mount Ophir; the nearest existing form to the Paleotherium. Tigers : 
 
 a pair of magnificent specimens, presented by the Guicoway of Baroda 
 
 !in 1851; a pair of clouded tigers, 1854. Tortoise: a gigantic land 
 
 l specimen, 7 feet long; circumference, 7 feet 8 inches; height when 
 
 I walking, 3 feet ; age, 180 years. Wapiti (from Knowsley), and young. 
 
 Rent of the Gardens to the Crown, 337/. per annum ; rates to Man lebone 
 
 and St. Pancras parishes, 199/. Animals in the Gardens, about 1300: although 
 
 [reduced in number, they are much more valuable and interesting than when 
 
 eir number was higher. Cost of the keep of the animals in 1854, about 4UOO/. 
 
 alt water and carriage in 1853 cost 83/.). Purchase of animals in the same 
 
 ar, 12347. (the presents are numerous). The visitors to the Gardens in 1854 
 
 .cteded 400,000. 
 
 The Gardens are open from 9 a.m. till sunset ; the Museum from 10 
 1 6. The public are admitted daily, for 1*. each person ; except on 
 onday, 6d. On Whit-Monday, 1853, upwards of 22,000 were admitted. 
 
 President of the Society, H.R.H. Prince Albert, K.G. Secretary, 
 . W. Mitchell, B.A. Office, 11 Hanover-square. 
 
 Admission of Members. Fellows pay an admission-fee of 51. ; and an annual 
 ntribution of 31., or a composition of 301. Annual subscribers, 3/. on Jan. 1st. 
 ellos*s have personal admission to the Gardens and Museum, with two com- 
 mons, daily; on Saturday they admit two friends to the Gardens by written 
 dcr, instead of by their personal introduction ; on Sunday, two friends by 
 ritten order, in addition to two by their personal introduction: they receive 
 so 20 tickets annually. Annual subscribers have personal admission to the 
 as dens and Museum, with one companion, daily; on Saturdays and Sundays 
 ey may admit one friend as above : they also receive 20 tickets annually. The 
 fe of a fellow or annual subscriber may exercise these privileges iti his absence. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS (THE SURREY) 
 
 r ere established in 1831, by Mr. Edward Cross, upon the demesne 
 
 hich had been attached to the manor-house at Walworth. Thither 
 
 ross removed his menagerie from the King's Mews, where it had been 
 
 ansferred from Exeter 'Change (see page 289). The Gardens were 
 
 id out by Henry Phillips, author of Sylva Florifera ; when a glazed 
 
 rcular building, 100 feet in diameter, was built for the cages of 
 
 e carnivorous animals (lions, tigers, leopards, &c.) ; and other houses 
 
 r mammalia, birds, &c. Here, in 18^4, was first exhibited a young 
 
 dian one-horned rhinoceros, for which Cross paid 800Z. ; it was the 
 
 nly specimen brought to England for twenty years: in 1836 were 
 
 ded three giraffes, one fifteen feet high. To the zoological attrac- 
 
 n was added a large picture -model, upon the borders of the lake, 
 
 ree acres in length: the first picture, Mount Vesuvius (with the 
 
 atural lake for the Bay of Naples), was produced in 1837, when fire- 
 
 orks were also first introduced, for the volcanic eruption ; in 18U9, 
 
 eland and its volcanoes; 1841, the City of Rome; 1843, Temple of 
 
 llora; 1844, London and the Great Fire of 1666; 1845, Edinburgh; 
 
 346, Vesuvius, reproduced; 1848, Rome, reproduced; 1849, Storming 
 
 ' Badajoz. These picture-models, mostly painted by Danson, were of 
 
 reat extent; that of Rome occupying five acres, and a painted surface 
 
 260,000 square feet. These pictures probably originated in the Ra- 
 
 jlagh spectacles of the last century ; for in 1792 was exhibited there 
 
 ount Etna, 80 feet high, with the flowing lava, and altogether a tri- 
 
 nph of machinery and pyrotechnics. Balloon-ascents, flower-shows, 
 
 id other sights, with out-door concerts, have been added to the at- 
 
 ictions of these Gardens. Admission is. 
 
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 
 
 Page 15. Amusements : Copenhagen House was taken down in 1853J 
 
 P. 31. Bartholomew Fair was entirely extinct in 1854. 
 
 P. 51. Chelsea : Apothecaries' 1 Company's " Physic Garden ;" One 
 of the fine old cedar-trees was blown down in 1854. 
 
 P. 52. Loddidge's Nursery, Hackney : Most of the gigantic tropical 
 trees were removed in 1854. 
 
 P. 70. Chelsea Hospital : The remains of the great Duke of Wel- 
 lington lay in state in the Hall, Nov. 12-17, 1852. 
 
 P. 76. Chelsea : The Red House at Battersea was taken down 1854. 
 
 P. 77. For " view" read " vie." 
 
 P. 80. Chess-clubs: The St. George's Chess-club has removed to 
 No. 53 St. James' s-street. 
 
 P, 91. St. Paul's Cathedral: For Rivers" read RSou." P. 92. 
 The remains of the great Duke of Wellington, interred here with great 
 state, Nov. 18. 1852, are placed within an altar-tomb in the Crypt, about 
 40 feet west of Nelson's remains. P. 93. Sir James Thornhill's paint 
 ings in the dome have been restored by Mr. Parris. P. 94. The Outer 
 Golden Gallery was regilt in 1845, at a cost of 681., paid by the late 
 Dean of St. Paul's, the Bishop of Llandaff. P. 95. The admission-, 
 charge of 2d., to view the tombs, is discontinued. 
 
 P. 99. Westminster College Hall : The fire upon the middle circular 
 hearth has been discontinued since 1850. 
 
 P. 110. Westminster Abbey: Poets' Corner: For " Conolly" read 
 " Cowley." P. 112. The statue of the poet Campbell has not yet been 
 placed here. In 1853, Gibson's statue of Sir Robert Peel was p'laced ijj 
 the north transept; and in 1854, a sitting statue of Wordsworth by Theedi] 
 
 P. 118. For " Bridge-row" read " Budge-row." 
 
 P. 129. St. Gileses Church, Cripplegate: The Diary of General] 
 Murray, referred to in the above page, and describing the profanation 
 of Milton's remains in 1790, is incorrect ; for the skeleton then showfl 
 as that of the poet, on being subjected to a very accurate inspecti^ 
 proved to be that of a female. (See Dr. Symmoris^s Life of MiltoitA 
 2d edit. p. 570, note. 1810.) 
 
 P. 144. St. Mary's Church, Lambeth, has been rebuilt, except the 
 tower, by P. C. Hardwick. 
 
 P. 155. St. Pancras' Old Church: for " after the Reformation", 
 read "before the Reformation." 
 
 P. 161. Second line, for D.D." read " LL.D." 
 
 P. 162. Temple Church : last line, for " Gibbon, the historiaJ 
 read " Edmund Gibbon, ancestor of the historian." 
 
 P. 166. Whitehall Chapel Organ : for " Stamford" read " Stanford 
 
 P. 170. L. Inn Chapel: for " Marquis of" read " Marquis" WelleslH 
 
 P. 117. Margaret-street Chapel : Upon the site has been erectfl 
 the church of All Saints (Butterfield, architect), with an elegantly pro] 
 portioned spire 220 feet high. 
 
 P. 176. The Tabernacle, Moorfields : for Told" read " Todd."| 
 
 P. 182. The Oratory of St. Philip Xeri has removed to a new chape I 
 and college built at Brompton, next Holy Trinity church. 
 
 P. 192. The Carlton Club-house, Pall Mall, has been completed, ij 
 
 P. 193. Club-houses: Coventry House ; p. 194, Erectheum ; andpf 
 196, Oriental; dissolved. 
 
 P. 199. Jun. United Service Club-house taken down 1854, to be rebuilt j 
 
 Pp. 199 and 699. The Whittington Club-house premises ( formerly th 
 Crown and Anchor tavern), extending from Arundel-st. to Milford-lane 
 in the rear of the Strand houses, were destroyed by fire, Dec. 3, 1854. j- 
 
ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 783 
 
 P. 201. Chapter Coffee-house, Paternoster-row, closed in 1854. 
 
 P. 206. College for Civil Engineers, Putney, dissolved. 
 
 P. 219. St. Olave's and St. John's Free Grammar School rebuilt 
 at Horsleydown in 1854. 
 
 P. 253. The Diorama premises, Regent's Park, have been con- 
 verted into a chapel for Baptists. 
 
 P. 259. Doctors' Commons : The Will of Napoleon I. has been trans- 
 ferred to Paris. 
 
 P. 267. Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly: Haydon's "Mock Election" 
 picture was sold for 500, not 800 guineas. P. 268. Her Majesty 
 visited the Mont Blanc Exhibition, 1854. 
 
 P. 272. For " Seldon" read " Selden." 
 
 P. 289. Excise Office (the) was taken down in 1854. 
 
 P. 306. For ' Davenent" read " Davenant." 
 
 P. 309- Fleet-street : Cowley was not born in Fleet-street, but in 
 Chancery -lane, where his father was a law-stationer and engrosser. 
 
 P. 335. Whittingtoris shield: for "E. B. Prince" read "E.B. Price." 
 
 P. 355. Haberdashers' Hall was taken down in 1854, to be rebuilt. 
 
 P. 362. Cutlers' Hall was taken down in 1854, to be rebuilt. 
 
 P. 367. Wax-chandlers' Hall was taken down in 1853, to be rebuilt. 
 
 P. 372. J er my n- street : The One Tun Tavern no longer exists. 
 
 P. 378. Horse Guards : The remains of the great Duke of Welling- 
 n were deposited in the Audience-room the night before his funeral. 
 
 P. 389. Brookes' s Menagerie : The old wooden house not taken down. 
 
 P. 393. Hale House, Earl's-court, was taken down in 1853. Lindsey 
 ouse : John Martin, the painter, died in 1854. 
 
 P. 397. The Angel Inn, St. Clement's, has been taken down. Sell, 
 . Carter-lane : before " for a loan of thirty pounds," insert " a letter." 
 ?. 399. The Cock (properly the Cock and Tabard) public-house, 
 thill-street, was taken down in 1854. 
 
 P. 435. Kentish Town : " Nelson's tree" has disappeared. 
 
 P. 454. Leicester-square : The statue of Geo. I. disappeared in 1854. 
 
 P. 455. Leicester -square : The Panopticon was opened in March 
 54. It was designed in the Saracenic style, by T. Hayter Lewis, 
 te cubic contents of the great hall and recesses are about 500 feet. 
 
 is heated by Gurney's " warming battery." In the centre is a foun- 
 n, the water of which can be thrown up by a pneumatic apparatus 
 
 feet, from an artesian well 346 feet deep. The decorations are in 
 amelled slate, with glass mosaic enrichments; the fronts of the galle- 
 s being Saracenic arches : the gilding and emblazonry are very Ble- 
 nt ; and when lighted by gas, in chandeliers of beautiful design, the 
 ect is very superb. There is an ascending-room to the photographic 
 llery. The stupendous organ, by Hill and Co., in England, is ex- 
 uded in size, but not in power, by that at York only. The institution 
 is originally projected by E. M. Clarke, the philosophical-instrument 
 iker. Admission, Is. 
 
 P. 457. Libraries : Under this head we may mention the Clerical 
 
 Metropolitan) Library of James Darling, 81 Great Queen-street, 
 ncoln's Inn Fields. This library is, perhaps, the most complete of 
 y in England in theology, besides cognate subjects and other branches 
 literature. The catalogue, the labour of ten years, and printed at a 
 eat expense, is equally adapted to any extensive library. 
 
 P. 461. Royal Geographical Society removed to 15 Whitehall-place. 
 
 P. 479. Apsley House : The bullet-proof iron Venetian blinds have 
 en removed by the present Duke of Wellington. 
 
 P. 480. For " Stohard" read " Stothard." 
 
 P. 505. Royal Mews, Prince's-street, Westminster, taken down in 
 54, and a new Stationery Office built upon the site. 
 
784 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Pp. 547, 548. Mr. Bernal and Mr. Windus died in 1854. 
 P. 561. Oxford-street: The shop-front of No. 54 is Renaissance. 
 P. 585. Hyde Park : for Lake House" read " Cake House." 
 P. 631. Gilttpur street ^Compter was taken down in 1854. 
 P. 655. Roy.-il Society : for " Dr. Williams" read " Dr. Wilkins." 
 P. 670. Somerset House : In the west wing of the Strand front are 
 the Offices of the Registrar-General. 
 
 THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM. 
 
 Although this stupendous structure is not, like its patronymic, the 
 Great Exhibition building in Hyde Park, placed within the limits of the 
 town, the " Curiosities of London" would scarcely be complete without 
 some notice of the contents of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. It occu- 
 pies the summit of a hill between the Brighton Railway and theDuhvich 
 "Wood, the fall from its site to the railway being 200 feet. In its con- 
 struction' the materials of the Great Exhibition building have been em- 
 ployed ; but it is larger than its predecessor by 162S feet, and by nearly 
 one-half in cubic contents. It is almost entirely of iron and glass, 
 covers nearly three-quarters of a mile of ground ; and its height from 
 the garden-front to the top of the louvres is 208 feet, 6 feet higher than 
 the Monument. The nave is covered with an arched roof, raising it 44 feet 
 higher than the nave in Hyde Park ; and the centre and two end transepts 
 have similar roofs Nearly 10,000 tons of iron have been used in the main 
 building and wings ; and the superficial quantity of glass is 25 acres. 
 
 The Nave is entered at the south end, through an ornamental screen 
 of niches filled with statues of kings and queens by John Thomas. In 
 the area, statues are picturesquely grouped with stupendous pines, 
 palms, and other tropical plants of luxuriant beauty, backed by the 
 brilliant facades of the various Industrial and Fine Arts Courts. * East 
 and west are groups illustrating the ethnology, zoology, and botany I 
 of the Old and New Worlds ; and at each end is a spacious basin, for a 
 fountain to throw up water from 70 to 200 feet. In the Great Transept j 
 are the works of French and Italian, German and English, Roman and I 
 Greek sculptors; and models of celebrated ancient and modern edifices. ' 
 Throughout the whole building are galleries devoted to the exhibition j 
 of objects of industry and fine art. The most beautiful works are the j 
 Courts representing the architecture and sculpture of each nation: 
 Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Pompeian, Alhambra, Assyrian, Byzantine, 
 and Romanesque ; German, English, French, and Italian medieval ; Re- 
 naissance, Elizabethan, Italian, &c. 
 
 Descending to the Italian and English Landscape Garden and the j 
 Park (planned by Sir Joseph Paxton, F.L.S.), we find Science aud ^ 
 Philosophy teaching their sublime truths in a geological illustration of j 
 the Wealden formation, ''so well known in Kent, Surrey, and Sussex, j 
 and formerly the great metropolis of the Dinosaurian orders, or the I 
 largest of gigantic lizards:" the various strata are here represented; j 
 and here Mr. Waterhouse Hawkins, under the guiding eye of Professor j 
 Owen, has built up gigantic animals of a former world, and in some | 
 instances restored them from fossil remains. 
 
 The Palace is approached by a branch from the Brighton Railway, | 
 into its very arcades. The building was opened by her Majesty, June f 
 10, 1854. It has already cost a million of money ; and in grandeur of f 
 purpose is a marvel of enlightened enterprise. (See the series of excel- ! 
 lent Guide-books, by the late Samuel Phillips, D.C.L.) 
 
INDEX. 
 
 ^DELPHI: Adams architects; Tom Hill, 1. 
 ADMIRALTY OFFICE, 1. 
 ALCHEMIST, the last in London, 2. 
 
 \-LDERMAN, 2. 
 
 LLMACK'S, 3. 
 
 StXMpNRY, Westminster, 4 : Caxton's 
 Printing-press, 4. 
 
 io/uoNRY, ROYAL, 4. 
 
 ILMSHOUSES: Alleyn's, 5; Bancroft's, 
 6; Drapers' Comp., 5; Fishmongers' 
 Comp., 5; Marylebone, 6; London, 6; 
 Naval, 6; Owen's, 5; Trinity, 6; West- 
 minster, 5; Whittington 's, 5. 
 MUSEMENTS : Archery, 6 ; Ballad-sing- 
 ing, 7; Bear and Bull Baiting, 8; 
 Bowls, 8 ; Card-playing, 8 ; Cock-fight- 
 ing, 9; Cricket, 9; Duck-hunting, 9; 
 Equestrianism, 10 ; Fairs, 10 ; Fire- 
 works, 10; Football, 11; Hells, 8; 
 Hunting, 11 ; Masquerades, 11 ; May- 
 ing and May-games, 11; Parks, 12; 
 Pigeons, 12 ; Prison Bars or Base, 13 ; 
 Punch and Judy, 13 ; Punch, the jour- 
 nal, 14; Rackets, 14; Skittles, 14; 
 Tea-gardens, 14; Tennis, 16; Thames 
 Sports, 16; Toxophilite Society, 7. 
 
 POLLON1CON, 16. 
 .POTHECARIES' HALL, 17. 
 
 CADES : Burlington, 17 j Exeter 
 Change, 17 ; Lowther Arcade, 17 ; 
 Opera-house, 18; Piazza, Covent Gar- 
 den, 18. 
 
 .CHvEOLOGICAL SOCIETIES, 18. 
 
 HES : Buckingham Palace, 18 ; Green 
 Park, 19 ; Hyde Park, 19. 
 YLL ROOMS : Chabert and Velluti, 19. 
 
 SIAN WELLS, 20. 
 .TILLERY COMPANY, ROYAL, 20. 
 '-UNION or LONDON, 21. 
 URNHAM HOUSE, 23. 
 :ES, 22. 
 
 ON ASCENTS, 22. 
 K OF ENGLAND, 23. 
 K, LONDON AND WESTMINSTER, 26. 
 ICAN, 26. 
 
 LAY AND PERKINS'S BREWERY, 27. 
 METER IN LONDON, 29. 
 OLOMEW FAIR, 30. 
 OLOMEW'S (S.) HOSPITAL, 31. 
 s, OLDEN : Agnes-le-Clair, 32 ; 
 32 ; Cold, 32 ; Duke's, 32 ; 
 ! ; Hummums, 32 ; Peerless 
 32 ; Queen's Bagnio, 32 ; Queen 
 eth's Bath, 32. 
 s AND WASH-HOUSES, 33. 
 
 EA : Bolingbroke, 33 ; Horizon- 
 Mill, 33 ; S. Mary's Church, 33. 
 
 BAYNARD'S CASTLE, 34. 
 
 BAYSWATER, 35, 
 
 BAZAARS : Anti-Corn-Law League, 36 ; 
 Baker-street, 36 ; S.James's, 36; Low- 
 ther, 36 ; Pantechnicon, 37 ; Queen's, 
 36 ; Soho, 35 ; Western Exchange, 36. 
 
 BEGGARS, 37. 
 
 BELGRAVIA, 37. 
 
 BELLS AND CHIMES : Bow, 38 ; Christ- 
 church, 38 ; S. Clement's, 39 ; Cripple- 
 gite, 39; Curfew, 38; S. Paul's, 39; 
 oyal Exchange, 40 ; S. Sepulchre's, 38. 
 
 BERMONDSEY, 40. 
 
 BETHLEM HOSPITAL, 42. 
 
 BETHNAL GREEN, 45. 
 
 BILLINGSGATE, 46. 
 
 BIRDS OF LONDON, 46. 
 
 BLACKFRIARS, 48. 
 
 BLACKWALL, 48 : Whitebait-dressing, 49. 
 
 BLIND SCHOOL, 49. 
 
 BOTANIC GARDENS: Apothecaries' Com- 
 pany's, 50 ; Flower Shows, 52 ; Horti. 
 cultural Society's, 51 ; Loddidge's, 52 ; 
 Napoleon's Willow, 51 ; Royal Botanic, 
 Kew, 51 ; Royal Botanic Society's, 52 ; 
 Tradescants', 50. 
 
 BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL, 52. 
 
 BRIDGES : Blackfriars, 60 ; Hammer- 
 smith, 63; Hungerford, 62; London, 
 New, 57; London, Old, 54; Southwark, 
 62 ; VauxhaU, 60 ; Waterloo, 61 ; West- 
 minster, 59 : Wordsworth's Sonnet, 60. 
 
 BUCKLERSBUHY, 63. 
 
 BUNHILL FIELDS, 63. 
 
 CANONBURY TOWER, 63. 
 
 CARLTON HOUSE, 64. 
 
 CARVINGS IN WOOD, 65. 
 
 CATO-STREET CONSPIRACY, 67. 
 
 CEMETERIES : Abney Park, 69 ; High- 
 gate, 69 ; Jews', 69 ; Keusal Green, 68 ; 
 Norwood, 69 ; Nunhead, 69 ; S. Giles' 
 and S. Martin's, 69; S. John's Wood 
 Chapel, 69 ; Tower Hamlets, 69 ; West 
 London, 69. 
 
 CHANCERY-LANE, 70. 
 
 CHAPELS, DISSENTERS': Albion, Moor- 
 gate, 173 ; Baptist, Little Wild-street, 
 173 ; Baptist, Bloomsbury, 173 ; Con- 
 gregational Nonconformist, 174 ; Essex- 
 street, 174; Horbury, 174; Indepen- 
 dent, Kingsland, 174; Jewin-street, 
 174 ; Moravian, Fetter-lane, 174 ; Na- 
 tional Scotch Church, 174 ; Old Gravel- 
 pit, Hackney, 175; Presbyterian, Hack- 
 ney, 175 ; Providence, Gray's-Iun-lane, 
 175 ; Providence, Marylebone, 175 ; Re- 
 gent-square, 175 } South-place, Fins- 
 
786 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 bury, 175; Spa-fields, 175 ; Surrey, 175; 
 Swedenborg Church, King's Cross, 176; 
 Tabernacle, Moorfields, 176; Trinity, 
 Poplar, 176 ; Weslevan, City-road, 176 ; 
 Wesleyan, Great Queen-street, 177 ; 
 Weslevan Model, Poplar, 177; Wes- 
 leyan, 'Liverpool-road, 177; Whitefield's 
 Tabernacle, 177; Zoar (Bunyan's), 178. 
 
 CHAPELS, EPISCOPAL: Asylum, Lam- 
 beth, 164; S.Bartholomew, Kingsland, 
 164 ; Bentinck, New-road, 164 ; Bromp- 
 ton Consumption Hospital, 164 ; Cha- 
 pel Royal, S. James's, 165 ; Chapel 
 Royal, Whitehall, 166 ; Charlotte Cha- 
 pel, Pimlico, 167; Duke-street, West- 
 minster, 167 ; S. Ethelreda, Ely-place, 
 167; Foreign Protestant Churches, 168; 
 Foundling Hospital Chapel, 169 ; Gray's 
 Inu, 169 ; Grosvenor, 169 ; Hanover, 
 Regent-street, 169; S. James, Hamp- 
 stead-road, 169 ; S. James, Pentonville, 
 169; S. John, Bedford-row, 169; 
 Kentish Town, 170; S. John's Wood, 
 170; Lincoln's Inn, 170; Magdalen 
 Hospital, 170 ; Margaret-street, 171 ; 
 S. Mark, Fulham-road, 171 ; S. Mark, 
 North Audley-street, 171 ; Percy, 1/1 ; 
 S. Philip, Regent-street, 171 ; S. Peter, 
 Queen-square, 171 ; S. Peter, Yere- 
 street, 172 ; Portland, 172 ; Quebec, 
 172 ; Rolls, Chancery-lane, 172 ; Teni- 
 son's, Regent -street, 172 ; Trinity, 
 Conduit-street, 173 ; York-street, 173. 
 
 CHAPELS, ROMAN CATHOLIC: Ambas- 
 sadors', 180 ; S. George, Lambeth, 181 ; 
 Immaculate Conception, Farm-street, 
 181 ; S. John, Islington, 182 ; Oratory of 
 S. Philip Neri, 182 ; Our Ladv, S. John's 
 Wood, 182 ; S. Patrick, Soho', 182 ; Re- 
 ligious Houses, 183 ; Sardinian, L. 1. 
 Fields, 182; Spanish-place, 183. 
 
 CHASING CROSS, 71. 
 
 CHARTER-HOUSE, 71. 
 
 CHEAPSIDE, 73. 
 
 CHELSEA, 75. 
 
 CHELSEA BUNS, 7<5. 
 
 CHELSEA CHINA, 77. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL, 77. 
 
 CHESS-CLUBS, 79- 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL: " Blue Coat," 80, 
 83; " Blues," eminent, 83 ; Foundation 
 of, 80 ; Governors, 84 ; Great Hall, 81 ; 
 " Grecians," 83 ; Hertford School, 84 ; 
 Holbein's picture, 80 ; " Mathematical 
 Boys," 82 ; Pictures, 82 ; Hospital re- 
 built, 81; Scholarships, 83 ; Spital Ser- 
 mons, 82 ; " Suppings in Public," 82. 
 
 CHURCH, GREEK, 179. 
 
 CHURCHES : S. Alban, Wood-street, 115 ; 
 All Saints, Lambeth, 116; All Souls, 
 Langham-place, 116 ; Allhallows Bark- 
 ing, 116 ; Allhallows the Great, 116 ; 
 Allhallows, Lombard-street, 116; All- 
 hallows Stainin?, 116 ; Allhallows-in- 
 the-Wall, 116 ;"S. Alphage, 117; S. 
 Andrew, Holborn, 117 ; S. Andrew, Un- 
 dershaft, 117 (Stow, John, note, 117) ; 
 S. Andrew, Marylebone, 118 ; S. Anne, 
 
 Limehouse, 118; S. Ann, Soho, 118; 
 S. Antholin, 118 ; S. Barnabas, Pimlico, 
 119; S. Bartholomew the Great, 119; 
 S. Bartholomew the Less, 120; S. Bar- 
 tholomew by the Exchange, 120, 164 
 S. Benet Fink, 120; S. Benet, 120; S. 
 Botolph, Aldgate, 120 ; S. Botolph, Bish- 
 opsgate, 120; Bow, 142; S. Bride, 121; 
 S. Catherine Cree, 122; Christ Church, 
 Highbury, 122. Christ Church, Newgate- 
 street, 122: Spital Sermons, 123. Christ 
 Church, Spitalfields, 123 ; Christ Church, 
 Westminster, 122 ; Churches, City, 115; 
 Churches of Convents, 84; Churches 
 in London in 1839, 115 ; Churches, 
 Queen Anne, 115; Churches built by 
 Wren, 114; S. Clement Danes, 123; 
 S. Dionis, Backchurch, 124; S. Dun- 
 stan in the East, 124 ; S. Dunstan in the 
 West, 124; S.Dunstan, Stepney, 126; 
 S Edmund, Lombard-street, 126 ; S. 
 George, Bloomsbury, 127; S. George 
 in the East, 128 ; S. George, Hanover- 
 square, 126 ; S. George, Queen-square, 
 127; S. George, Southwark, 127; S. 
 Giles, Camberwell, 128 ; S. Giles, Crip- 
 plegate, 128; S. Giles-in-tbe-Fields, 
 129; S.Helen, Bishopsgate, 130; Holy 
 Trinity, Brompton, 130; Holy Trinity, 
 Haverstock-hill, 130; Holy Trinity, 
 Paddinsrton, 130 ; Holy Trinity, Vaux- 
 hall Bridge, 130 ; S. James, Bermond: 
 sey,132; S. James, Clerkemvell, 131: 
 S. James, Garlick-hithe, 131 ; S. James, 
 Piccadilly, 131; S. John, Charlotte- 
 street, 133; S. John, Clerkemvell. 132; 
 S. John, Hackney, 133 ; S. John, Hors- 
 leydown, 133; S. John, Westminster, 
 133; S. John, Notting-hill, 133; S. 
 John, South Hackney, 133 ; S. Katha- 
 rine, 134; S. Lawrence Jewry, 134; 
 S. Leonard, Shoreditch, 134: S. Luke, 
 Chelsea, 76, 135 ; S. Luke, Old- Street- 
 road, 164; S.Magnus, 135; S. Mar- 
 garet, Lothbury, 135 ; S. Margaret Pat- 
 tens, 136. S. Margaret, Westminster, 
 136: Painted Glass, 136 ; Overseers' 
 Box, 138. S.Mark, Kennington, 139; 
 S. Mark, Old- Street-road, 139 ; S.Mar- 
 tin-in-the-Fields, 139 ; S. Martin, Lud- 
 
 Tte, 140; S. Martin Outwitch, 140; 
 Mary Abbot, Kensington, 141; 
 S. Mary Abchurch, 141 ; S. Mary Al- 
 dermary, 141 ; S. Mary, Battersea, 33, 
 142; S. Mary-le-Bone, Old and New, 
 142 ; S. Marv-le-Bow, 142 ; S. Mary- 
 at- Hill, 141 ;' S. Mary, Herne Hill, 144; 
 S. Mary, Islington, 144 ; S. Man, Lam- 
 beth, 144; S. Mary, Bermondse'y, 145; 
 S. Mary, Newington, 146; S/Mary, 
 Old Fish-street, 145 ; S. Mary, Padding- 
 ton, 146; S. Mary, Rotherhithe, 146; 
 S. Mary-le-Savoy," 147; S. Mary, So- 
 merset, 147; S. Mary, Stoke Newing- 
 ton, 147 ; S. Mary-le-Strand, 148 ; S. 
 Man, WhitechapeU46 ; S. Man, Wind- 
 ham-place, 148; S. Mary Woolnoth, 
 148 (Newton, rector, note, 149); S. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 787 
 
 Matthew, Bethnal-green, 149; S.Mat- 
 thew, City-road, 149 ; S. Matthew, 
 Brixton, 149 ; S. Michael, Bassishaw, 
 149 ; S. Michael, Cornhill, 150 ; S. Mi- 
 chael, Pimlico, 150; S. Michael, Pa- 
 ternoster Royal, 150; S. Michael, 
 Queenhithe, 150; S. Michael, Wood- 
 street, 150; S. Mildred, Bread-street, 
 151; S. Mildred, Poultry, 151; S. Ni- 
 cholas, Cole Abbey, 151 ; S. Olave, Hart- 
 street, 151 ; S. Olave, Jewry, 151 ; S. 
 Olave, Tooley-street, 151 ; S. Pancras, 
 Old and New, 152; S. Paul, Camden 
 Town, 153; S. Paul, Co vent Garden, 153. 
 S. PAUL'S, NEW: Admission to view, 
 95 ; Ball and Cross, 94 ; Bell, Great, 93 ; 
 Chapter-house, 95 ; Churchyard, 95 ; 
 Carvings, 91 ; Clock, 93 ; Construction, 
 90 ; Crypt, 92 ; Dimensions, 96 ; Dome, 
 93; Establishment, 94; Exterior, 88; 
 Festivals, 95 ; Golden Gallery, 94 ; 
 Gwilt, J., on, 96; Library, 92; Light- 
 ning-conductors, 90; Monuments, 90; 
 Rebuilt by Wren, 88 ; State Processions, 
 95 ; Stone Gallery, 93; View from, 94 ; 
 Whispering Gallery, 93. S.PAUL'S, OLD : 
 Cloisters, 85 ; Cross, 85 ; Dimensions, 85 ; 
 Fire of London, 87; Founded, 85 ; Inigo 
 Jones's portico, 87 ; Paul's Walk, 86 ; 
 Sites of Old and New, 87; Spire and 
 Cross, 85 ; Tombs, 86. S. Paul, Knights- 
 bridge, 154; S. Paul, for Seamen, 
 154; S.Paul, Shadwell, 154; S.Peter, 
 Bankside, 155 ; S. Peter, Cornhill, 155; 
 S. Peter, Pimlico, 155; S. Peter, Saf- 
 fron-hill, 155; S. Peter-le-Poor, 155; 
 S. Peter-ad- Vincula, 155 ; S. Peter, 
 Walworth, 156 ; Sailors' Church, 164; 
 S. Saviour, Southwark, 156 ; S. Sepul- 
 chre, 159 ; S. Stephen, Coleman-street , 
 159; S.Stephen, Portland Town, 159 ; 
 S. Stephen, Rochester-row, 160; S. 
 Stephen, Wallbrook, 160; S. Swithin, 
 London Stone, 161 ; Temple (S. Mary), 
 161 ; S. Thomas, Charter-house, 163 ; 
 S. Thomas, Southwark, 163; Trinity, 
 Gray's-Inn-road,163; Trinity, Minories, 
 163; S. Vedast, 164. WESTMINSTER 
 ABBEY: Abbot Islip's Chapel, 105; 
 Admeasurements, 113; Admission to 
 view, 113 ; Altar-painting, ancient, 101 ; 
 Ambulatory, 103 ; Architecture of, 
 101 ; Brasses, 112 ; Chapels, 100, 102- 
 106 ; Chapter-house and Records, 101 ; 
 Choir, 107; Cloisters, 100, 112; Coro- 
 nations, 114; Coronation Chairs, 107; 
 Dissolution, 97; Divine Service, 113; 
 Edward the Confessor's Chapel, 106; 
 Edward III. and Queen Philippa, Tombs 
 of, 106 ; Exterior, 108 ; Fees for Monu- 
 ments, 112 ; Foundation by Egbert, 96 ; 
 Front, Western, 99 ; Glass, Painted and 
 Stained, 112 ; (Glover, Mrs., and Bet- 
 terton, note, 113;) Hall, College, 99; 
 Henry VII.'s Chapel, 98, 103 ; Interior 
 Views, 101 ; (James II.'s remains, note, 
 1 104;) Jerusalem Chamber, 99; Library, 
 100; Litlington Tower, 100; Manors of, 
 
 97 ; Mary, Queen, buried in, 104 ; Mu- 
 sicians' Corner, 108 ; Music, 114 ; Nave, 
 109; Plan, 101, 102; Poets' Corner, 100, 
 110-112 ; Rebuilt by Edward the Con- 
 fessor, 96, Henry III. 98 ; Sanctuary, 
 98; Side, South, 99; S. Benedict's 
 Chapel, 102 ; S. Edmund's, 102 ; S. 
 John's, 105; S. Erasmus', 105 ; S. Ni- 
 cholas', 103 ; S . Paul's, 105 ; Transepts, 
 99,100,108. 
 
 CITY, THE, 183. 
 
 CITY WALL AND GATES, 185. 
 
 CLEARING-HOUSE, THE, 186. 
 
 CLERKENWELL : Clerks' Well, 187 ; 
 Cobham, Lord, the Wickliftite, 188; 
 Britton, "the Musical Small-coal-mau," 
 186; Hicks's Hall, 187; Hockley-in- 
 the-Hole, 188; Newcastle, Duchess of, 
 187; Newcastle House, 187; Priory 
 Church and Gate of St. John, 186 ; Red 
 Bull Theatre. 187 ; St. John's-square, 
 186 ; Watchmaking, 188. 
 
 CLIMATE OF LONDON : Change of Air, 
 189; Smoke, 189; Temperature, 188. 
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES: Alfred, 189; 
 Army and Navy, 190; Arthur's, 190; 
 Athenaeum, 190 ; Beefsteak Society, 
 191; Boodle's, 192; Brooks's, 192; 
 Carlton, 192; Chess-clubs, 79; City 
 Club, 192; Club Chambers, 192; Con- 
 servative, 193; Coventry, 193; Crock- 
 ford's, 193; (Crockford's career, note, 
 193 ;) Dilettanti Society : Pictures, 194; 
 Erectheum, 194; Garrick: Pictures, 
 194 ; Gresham, 195 ; Guards', 195 ; 
 Kit-kat, its history, 195; Law In- 
 stitution, 195; Literary Club, 195; 
 October, 196; Oriental, 196; Oxford 
 and Cambridge, 196 ; Parthenon, 196 ; 
 Reform, 196 ; Roxburghe : Dinners, 
 197; Travellers', 198; Union, 198; 
 United Service, 198 ; University, 199 ; 
 White's, 199; Whittington,199; Wind- 
 ham, 199. 
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES : Baker's, 200 ; Baltic, 
 200 ; Bedford, 200 ; Button's, 200 ; 
 Chapter, 201 ; Clifford-street, 201 ; Co- 
 coa-tree, 201 ; Coffee-drinking,200, 205; 
 Coffee-shops, 205; Deacon's, 201; Dick's, 
 201 ; Don Saltero's, 75 ; George's, 202 ; 
 Grecian, 202; Jamaica, 202; S.James's, 
 202; Jerusalem, 202; King's, 202; 
 Langbourn, 203 ; Lloyd's, 203 ; Lon- 
 don, 203 ; Miles's, 203 ; New England, 
 N. and S. American, and Cock Tavern, 
 203 ; Peele's, and its Newspapers, 203 ; 
 Rainbow, and its Token, 204 ; Smyrna, 
 204; Somerset, 204; Squire's, 204; 
 Tom's, Cornhill, 204; Tom's, Strand, 
 204; Tom's, Covent Garden, 204; 
 Turk's Head, 205; Will's, 205. 
 
 COLLEGES : S. Barnabas, 207; Church of 
 England Training, 206; Church Mis- 
 sionary, 206; Chemistry, 206; Civil 
 Engineers', 206. Dulwich, and its 
 Picture Gallery, 208 : Election of Mas- 
 ter,209. Gresham, 209. Heralds', and its 
 Curiosities, 210 : Grant of Arms, to ob- 
 
788 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 tain, 211. King's College and School, 
 211 ; S. Mark's Training, 212 ; New 
 College, 212. S. Peter's (Westminster 
 School), 212: College Hall, 214; emi- 
 nent Westminsters, 213 ; Masters, 214 ; 
 Latin Plays, 214 ; Library, 214 ; Terms, 
 213. Physicians : Foundation of, 207 ; 
 Library, 207; Harveian Oration, 207; 
 Linacre, 207 ; Pictures and Sculpture, 
 207; Theatre, 207; Warwick-lane, 207. 
 Queen's, 214; Sion College and its Li- 
 brary, 214; Surgeons', its Library, Mu- 
 seums, Theatre, and Hunterian Oration, 
 280; Training Colleges, 212. Univer- 
 sity : Flaxman Models, Library, and La- 
 boratory, 215. University Hall, 215 ; 
 Wesleyan Normal, 215. 
 
 COLLEGIATE AND OTHER PUBLIC 
 SCHOOLS : Camberwell Free Grammar, 
 216; Charterhouse, 72; Christ's Hos- 
 pital, 80 ; City of London, and John 
 Carpenter, 217; Grevcoat Hospital, 
 220; S. Margaret's, "217; Mercers', 
 217; Merchant Tailors', and eminent 
 Scholars, 217 ; S. Olave's and S. John's, 
 218; Lady Owen's, 219; S. Paul's, and 
 eminent Paulines, 219; Philological, 
 220; S. Saviour's, 220; Tenison's, 221. 
 
 COLOSSEUM, THE : Ascending Room, 222 ; 
 Building described, 221 ; Conservatories, 
 223; Cyclorama, 224; Glyptotheca, 223 ; 
 Grotto of Adelsberg, 224; Hornor's 
 Sketches, 221 ; (Le Colisee at Paris, note, 
 221;) Painting the Panorama, 222; 
 Parris, E. T., 222 ; Picture of London, 
 221; described, 222; London by Sight, 
 223; Swiss Cottage, 224: View from 
 the roof, 223. 
 
 COLUMNS : Nelson, bas-reliefs, construc- 
 tion, scaffolding, and statue, 224; di- 
 mensions, 226. York Column, 226. 
 
 COMMON COUNCIL, 227. 
 
 CONDUITS: Bayswater, 229; Cheapside 
 and Cornhill, 229 ; Dalston, 231 ; Hyde 
 Park, 230; Islington, 231; S. James's, 
 231; Kensington Palace, 230; Lamb's 
 Conduit, 231; Shoe- lane, 229; Stan- 
 dard in Cornhill, 229 ; Tyburn, 229 ; 
 Westminster Palace, 230; Wine Con- 
 duits, 231. 
 
 CONVENTS: Bell-tolling, 233; Carmelite 
 Nuns, 233; existing Remains, 232; 
 Fraternities, 232; Friaries, 232; Good 
 Shepherd, 233; Hospitals, 232; New 
 Foundations, 232; Nunneries, 232 ; Our 
 Lady, 233; Priories, 232; Redemp- 
 torist Fathers, 233 ; Sisters of Mercy, 
 232; Sisters of Notre Dame, 234; 
 " Taking the Veil," 233. 
 
 CORNHILL : Birch, Alderman, 235 ; Fires, 
 destructive, 235; Roman Occupation, 
 234 ; Taverns, old, 234 ; Tun Prison, 234. 
 
 COSMORAMAS, 235. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN : Abbey at Westmin- 
 ster, 235 ; Coffee-houses, 236 ; Elec- 
 tions in, 237 ; " Museum Minervae," 
 237; S. Paul's Church, 236; Piazza, 
 236 ; Taverns, 236. 
 
 CRANE-COURT: Dryden Leach, the prin- ! 
 ter, 237; Royal Society's House, 237; \ 
 Scottish Hospital, its Pictures, 237; 
 Society of Arts, 237. 
 
 CRYPTS: S. Bartholomew's, W. Smith- 
 field, 240 ; Bow Church, 240 ; S. Ethel- 
 reda's, 243 ; Garraway's Coffee-house, ' 
 241; Gerard's Hall, 241; Guildhall, 
 241 5 Guy Fawkes's Cellar, 241 -. S. 
 John's, 243 ; Lamb's Chapel, 242 ; Lam- ' 
 beth Palace, 242 ; Leathersellers' HalLJ 
 242 ; S. Martin's-le-Grand, 243 ; S. Maryi 
 Aldermary, 243; S. Michael's, 243 J 
 Old London Bridge, 240 ; S. Paul's, 243 ;| 
 Prior of Lewes, 242; Searching Guy| 
 Fawkes's Crypt, 242 ; S. Stephen's, and! 
 Bishop Lyndwoode, 244 ; Tower of Lon4 
 don, 244. 
 
 CURFEW, COUVRE-FEU : where rung, 245* 
 Specimens of, 245. 
 
 CURIOSITT-SHOPS : Wardour-street, Ire* 
 land's Shakspeare Forgeries, and Sad 
 House, 246. 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE : Exterior and Quay, 247; 
 former Houses, 248; Long Room, 247 a 
 Queen's Warehouse, 247 ; Reports, dailm 
 247 ; TaUard's remark, 248. 
 
 DAGUERREOTYPE, THE, 248 : London Ami 
 mosphere for, 248. 
 
 DAIRIES: Asses' Milk, 251 ; FriernDai 
 Farm, 250 ; Laycock's Dairy, 250 ; Milk 
 consumed in London, 249 ; Milk Faitj 
 250 ; Milk-street, 250. 
 
 DAY IN LONDON AND OTHER CAPITAL* 
 COMPARED, 251. 
 
 DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM, 251. 
 
 DIORAMAS : Bouton and Daguerre's, 252 j : 
 Process of, 252; Name, 253; Napoleonf ! 
 Funeral, 253 ; Queen's Bazaar, 253; 
 Roberts, Stanfield, Telbin, and GrieiM 
 253. 
 
 DOCKS: Commercial, East India, S. Kflrj 
 therine's, 254 ; London, 255 ; We* | 
 India, 256. 
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS: Admiralty CouimJ 
 Arches' Court, 257 ; Marriage Licensee 
 how obtained, 258; Prerogative Vlm\ 
 Office, 258; Wills, curious, 2^ ; Wills, 
 copying and reading, 259. 
 
 DOMESDAY-BOOK described, 259; IdM 
 don in Domesday, 260. 
 
 " DREADNOUGHT" HOSPITAL-SHIP, 260; i 
 Patients of all Nations, 261. 
 
 DRUHY-LANE: Astley's Pavilion, Coatt 
 yard and Nell Gwynne, Craven House, { 
 Cock and Magpie", Dr. Donne, Dnuji 
 House, 261 ; Pit-place, 262. 
 
 EARTHQUAKES IN LONDON, 262 : Hoax 
 in, 263 ; Walpole's account of. 
 
 EAST INDIA HOUSE, 263 : Building^H 
 East India Company, 264; First Hj^H 
 264 ; Library and Museum, 264 ; O^H 
 of, 264 ; Statues and Pictvnt 
 
 EASICHEAP: Ancient, 264; Boartl^H 
 Tavern and Relics, 264 ; Boar's Head,: 
 Southwark, 266. 
 
 EGYPTIAN HALL, PICCADILLY, irs several 
 Exhibitions : Belzoni's Tomb, Bui- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 789 
 
 lock's Museum, Haydon's Pictures, Cat- 
 lin's Gallery, " Tom Thumb 3 " Panora- 
 mas, Albert Smith's Ascent of Mont 
 Blanc, &c., 268. 
 
 ELECTRIC TELEGRAPHS: Bain's System, 
 Lo thbury Station, Admiralty and Houses 
 of Parliament Telegraphs, Newspaper 
 Reports, 268-270. 
 
 ELY PLACE : Ely House, and its Tenants ; 
 Sir Christopher Hatton ; Lady Hatton ; 
 Relic of the Palace; Stage-plays and 
 Masques, 2?0 r 272. 
 
 EXCHANGE-ALLEY : Garraway's, 272 ; 
 South-Sea Bubble, and Ward's Picture, 
 272; Stock-jobbing, 273; Thorough- 
 fares, 273. 
 
 EXCHANGES: Royal Exchange: Ambu- 
 latory, 279 ; Anemometer, 280 ; 
 "Bursse," the first, 273; Charles 
 II. opens the second Exchange, 276; 
 Clock and Chimes, 276, 278 ; Eliza- 
 beth opens the Burse, 274; Fire of 
 1838, 276; Gates, metal, 281; Grass- 
 hopper crest and sign, 273; Gresham 
 Committee, 275 ; Gresham's Death, 274 ; 
 Gresham Family, 273 ; Gresham's Shop 
 in Lombard-street, 273 ; Gresham Trust, 
 281 ; Hollar's Print, 275 ; Lloyd's Re- 
 gister, 280 ; Lloyd's Rooms, 279 ; Mer- 
 chants' Walks, 274,276 ; New Exchange 
 described, 277 ; Pawne, the, 274 ; Por- 
 tico, 277; Rain-gauge, 280; Roman 
 Remains, 277 ; Shops, 276 ; Statues of 
 Kings, 275, 276, 279 ; Tite's Design, 
 277 ; Traffic and Business, 279 ; Vic- 
 toria, Queen, opens the New Exchange. 
 277; Wyon's Medal, 281. Coal Ex- 
 change, 281 ; Coal Trade of London, 
 282; Roman Bath, 282. Cora Exchange, 
 283. King's Exchange, or " Old 
 Change," 283. New Exchange, Strand, 
 283 : Assassination, 284 : Nan Clarges, 
 Duchess of Albeinarle, 283 ; Tyrconnel, 
 Duchess of, 284. Stock Exchange: 
 Baily, Mr. Francis, 286; Bull and Bear, 
 285 ; Capel-court, 284 ; Exchequer- 
 bills, 285; First Building, 284; Hoaxes, 
 286 ; Stockbrokers, 284. 
 
 XCHEQUER-TALLIES, 286. 
 
 XETER HALL: Anti-Slavery Meeting, 
 288; Lengthening Hall, 287; Organ, 
 287 ; Religious Societies, 288. 
 
 XETER HOUSE AND EXETER CHANGE : 
 
 Burleigh and Exeter House, 288 ; 
 
 Burghley, Lord, death of, 288 ; Clark, 
 
 " King of the Change," 289 ; Exeter 
 
 Change built, 288 ; Gay the Poet, 289 ; 
 
 Pidcock and Polrfo's Menagerie, 289. 
 XCISK OFFICE, THE, 289 ; System, 289. 
 ASHIONS, OLD, IN DRESS: Badges, 
 
 Blue-coat Boys, Canes, Charity-school 
 
 Girls, Dandy, Pitt and Fox, Plant 
 
 Badges, 290. 
 ETTER-LANE : Mrs. Brownrigg, Dryden, 
 
 Record Office, Sedans, White Horse Inn, 
 
 291. 
 IELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS : Brothers' 
 
 Steps, 291; Long Melds, 291; Miss 
 
 Porter's Coming Out, 291; Southey 
 and Moser's Testimony, 292. 
 
 FIELD-LANE, 292; Dickens describes, 
 292; Old Chick-lane, 292. 
 
 FINSBURY : Manor and Lease of, Lord 
 of the Manor and Lord Mayor, 293. 
 
 FIRE OP LONDON : Buruet and Claren- 
 don on, 294; Evelyn's Account, 294; 
 Extent of, 294 ; Court of Claims, 295 ; 
 Pepys's Account, 293 ; Pudding-lane, 
 295 ; Rebuilding of London, 295 ; Vin- 
 cent's Narrative, 295. 
 
 FIRES, MEMORABLE, IN LONDON, 295. 
 
 FIRE-BRIGADE: Established, 299; Fire- 
 engines, early, 298; Fire-escapes, 300 ; 
 Fire, from Gay's Trivia, 299; Insur- 
 ance Offices established, 298 ; Paris 
 Pompiers, 300 ; Register of Fires, 299; 
 Steam Fire-engines, 299. 
 
 FLEET PRISON, THE : Ancient Tenure, 
 300; Contempt, 301; Debtors, 301; 
 destroyed in 1780, 301 ; Fires in, 302; 
 Fleet Marriages, 302 ; the Grate, 301 ; 
 Howel's Letters, 301; Martyrs, 300; 
 Oastler's Fleet Papers, 303 ; Poets im- 
 prisoned, 303; Prison rebuilt, 301; 
 Prynne and Lilburn, 301; Rules and 
 Day -rules, 302 ; Star-chamber victims, 
 300; Wardens' Fees, 300. 
 
 FLEET RIVER AND FLEET DITCH : Ben 
 Jouson's description, 303; Bridges, 303; 
 Fleet Bridge, 304; Fleet Sewer, 304; 
 Gay and Pope on, 304; Obelisks, 305; 
 River-source, 303; Swift's City Shower, 
 304 ; Town Ditch, 304. 
 
 FLEET-STREET : Banking-firms, 307 ; 
 Bolt-court, 306; Booksellers, 307; 
 Bride Lane and Well, 306 ; Burning of 
 the Pope, 309; Child, Gosling, and 
 Hoare, Bankers, 308; Conduit, 306; 
 Devil Tavern, 308; Globe Tavern, 306 ; 
 Great Fire stopped, 305 ; Hare-court, 
 olim Ram-alley, 307 ; Johnsou's-court, 
 307 ; Mitre-court, its Sanctuary and 
 Tavern, 307 ; Palace of Henry Prince 
 of Wales, 308 ; Posts, 305 ; Printers, 
 early, 307 ; Red-Lion-court, 307 ; Salis- 
 bury-court, its Theatre, and Rich- 
 ardson's Printing-office, 306 ; Salmon's 
 Wax-work, 308; Serjeants' Inn, 307; 
 Shire-lane and Gunpowder-alley, 309 ; 
 Shoe-lane, 306; Signs, 305; Taverns 
 and Coffee-houses, 308 ; Waithman, 
 Alderman, 305 ; Water-lane and White- 
 friars, 306 ; Wine-Office-court, 307 ; 
 Wynkyn de Worde's Imprint, 307. 
 
 FOG OF LONDON, 309. 
 
 FORTIFICATIONS, 310. 
 
 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL: Blind Found- 
 lings, 312 ; Chapel, 312 ; Children ad- 
 mitted, 311 ; Coram, the Founder, 311 ; 
 Governor's qualification, 312 ; Hogarth 
 a Governor, 311 ; Music, 313 ; Picture 
 Exhibitions, 311 ; Promenade, 311. 
 
 FOUNTAINS : Billingsgate, 314 ; S. 
 James's-square, Lincoln's Inn, Soho- 
 square, Middle Temple, Somerset House, 
 Trafalgar-square, and Whitehall, 313. 
 
790 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 FREEMASONS' HALL : Edifices in London 
 built by Freemasons, 314; Statue of 
 the Duke of Sussex, 315. 
 
 FROSTS AND FROST-FAIRS ON THE 
 THAMES, 315. 
 
 FULWOOD'S RENTS, 318. 
 
 GARDENS: Apollo, 323; Bacon's, Lord, 
 321 ; Baldwin's, 320 ; Brompton Park, 
 322 ; Buckingham Palace, 322 ; Camp- 
 den House, 323 ; City Halls, 321 ; 
 Cuper's, 323 ; Finch's, 323 ; Gerrard's, 
 320 ; Gray's Inn, 321 ; Hill's, Sir John, 
 322; Houndsditch,319; Inns of Court, 
 321 ; Kensington Palace, 322 ; Leicester 
 Hpuse, 320 ; Lincoln's, Earl of, 321 ; 
 Milton's, 322; More, Sir Thomas, on, 
 319; Mulberry Garden, 322 ; Oldbourne, 
 320; Ranelagh, 322; Spring Garden, 
 320 ; Strand, 319 ; Temple, 321 ; Tower, 
 319 ; Tradescants', 323 ; Vauxhall, 323; 
 Westminster, 319 ; Whitehall, 320. 
 
 GAS-LIGHTING : Company, first, 324 ; 
 Davy, Sir H., on, 324: experimental 
 Exhibitions, 324 ; Gas, how made, 324 ; 
 Johnson, Dr., his prevision, 324; Mo- 
 rality effected by Gas-lighting, 325 ; 
 Murdoch and Winsor, 324 ; New Light 
 and Heat Company, 324; Street 
 Lights, various, 324. 
 
 GATE-HOUSE (THE), WESTMINSTER : 
 Prisoners, distinguished, 325. 
 
 GEOLOGY OF LONDON : Chalk and Clay, 
 325 ; Conybeare on, 326 ; Fossils found 
 in, 326 ; Gravel and Sand, 326 ; London 
 Basin, 326 ; Mantell on, 325. 
 
 S. GEORGE'S FIELDS : Gardens, 327 ; 
 Peninsulated by the Thames, 327 ; Ro- 
 man Remains and Road, 326 ; Taverns, 
 327 ; Watling-street, 327. 
 
 S. GILES'S : Ballad-singing, 330; Church, 
 and the Pendrells' Tomb, 331 ; Dyott- 
 street, 329; Elms and Gallows, 328; 
 Gay's Trivia, 329; Gin-drinking and 
 Cruelty, 328; Hogarth's Prints, 328; 
 Hospital, 327 ; Inns and Taverns, 328 ; 
 Irish in, 329; Life in London, 330; 
 Monmouth-street, 330; Oldcastle's Ex- 
 ecution, 328; Pound, S. Giles's, 327; 
 Rookery, 329, 330; Round-house, 329; 
 Seven Dials, 329 ; Smith, Albert, de- 
 scribes, 329 ; Suburbs, 327. 
 
 GILTSPUR-STREET : Cock-lane Ghost, 
 331, 132 ; Pie-corner and the Fire of 
 London, 330. 
 
 GOG AND MAGOG: Corinaeus and Gog- 
 magog, 332 ; Costumes of, 333 ; Guild- 
 hall Giants, 331 ; Hone, William, on 
 the Giants, 333 ; Lord Mayor's Show, 
 333; Origin of, 332 ; Pageants and Pro- 
 cessions, 332 ; True History of the 
 Giants, 332. 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS : Abbey Farm, 3 
 Roman Funereal Urns, 333 ; Stow's 
 Account of, 333. 
 
 GREY FRIARS : Chapel, first, 333 ; Christ's 
 Church, 334 ; Christ's Hospital, 335 ; 
 Chronicle of the Grev Friars, 335 ; first 
 settled in Cornhill, 333 ; Habit of, 334 
 
 Sanctuary, 334 ; Tombs, Royal, in the 
 Church, 334; Whittington Relics, 335. 
 
 GRUB-STREET : Authors, 335 ; Dunciad, 
 336; Grub-street Journal, 336; Grub- 
 street Society, 336 ; Hoole, the Meta- 
 physical Tailor, 336; Hoole, Rev. S., 
 336 ; Milton-street, 335 ; Murder, 335 ; 
 Thackeray, W. M., on, 336; Welby, 
 " the Grub-street Hermit," 335. 
 
 brUiLDHALL : Beckford's Address to 
 George III., 339 ; Burning of the Hall 
 in the Great Fire, 338 ; Chamberlain's 
 Office, 341; Chamberlain's Staff and 
 Seal, 341; Chamberlains Wilkes and 
 Clark, 341 ; Charles II. and Sir Robert 
 Vyner, 339 ; Common Council Chamber, 
 its Pictures and Statues, 340; Com- 
 panies' Arms, 338 ; Court of Aldermen, 
 340 ; Court of Exchequer, 340 ; Courts 
 of Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, 
 341 ; Crypt, 340 ; Entertainments, 339 ; 
 First Town Hall, 337; Freedoms in the 
 Chamberlain's Parlour, 341 ; Giants, 
 Gog and Magog, 338 ; " Great Hall" 
 built, 337; Guildhall Chapel, 338 ; His- 
 toric Events in Guildhall, 337 ; Kitchen, 
 340 ; Library, 341 ; Lighting the Hall, 
 339 ; Lord Mayor's Dinner, 339 ; Monu- 
 ments, 339 ; Pictures, 340 ; Roof, 338 ; 
 Statues, 338; Whittington burns the' 
 King's Bonds, 339 ; Windows, 338. 
 
 HACKNEY-COACHES : Bailey, Capt., es- 
 tablishes, 342; Cab, the, 342; Hack- 
 ney-coaches first excluded from Hyde 
 Park, 342 ; Origin of the term, 341. 
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES : Alms- 
 folk and Armouries, 343 ; Ancient Hall, 
 plan of, 343; City Apprentices, 346 JJ 
 Companies, the, 343; their Charities and j 
 Objects, 367; three classes of, 368;! 
 Clockmakers' Company, the, 3681 
 Cooks' Company, the, 368 ; Companie* 
 Barges, 345; Dinners in 1419, 3441 
 Election Ceremonies, 345; Elections 
 Feasts, 344; Feasts, 343 ; Funeral Pro-] 
 cessions, 344 ; Guildhall, 343 ; LiverieJ 
 343; Loving Cup, 345; Plate, 3431 
 Triumph, Pageant, or Riding, 345. 
 
 HALLS OF THE TWELVE GREAT Cod 
 PANIES : Clothworkers' Hall : Pepysfl 
 Cup, James I., and Stone Master, 358. 
 Drapers' Hall : Feasts, Pictures, and 
 Players, 348. Fishmongers' Hall : CuiM 
 osities, Dogget's Coat and Badge, Loilj 
 Mayors, Pictures, Walworth and hit- 
 Statue, 350. Goldsmiths' Hall : Pio* 
 tures and Sculpture, 352; old Halk| 
 Pageants, and Plate, 353; Assay and 
 Hall-mark, 353. Grocers' Hall : Feast| 
 and Pictures, 347. Haberdashers' HallS 
 Pictures, 355. Ironmongers' Hall: 
 Feasts, Pageants, and Portraits, 356. 
 Mercers' Hall and Chapel: Picture^ 
 Election-cup, and Plate, 346. M er chant- 
 Tailors' Hall: Festivals. Music, Pic- 
 tures, Plate, and eminent Merchant- 
 Tailors, 355 ; Political Banquets, 354 
 Salters' Hall : Busts, Pageants, and 
 
INDEX. 
 
 791 
 
 Portraits, 356. Skinners' Hall: Pic- 
 tures, Election, and Judd's Bequest, 
 354. Vintners' Hall: Pictures, 357; 
 Swans upon the Thames, 362; the 
 Vintry, 358. 
 
 HALLS or THE MINOR CITY COMPANIES : 
 Apothecaries' Hall, 17. Armourers' 
 and Braziers' Hall, 358. Bakers' Hall, 
 359. Barber-Surgeons' Hall : Barbers 
 drawing Teeth, 360 ; Holbein's Charter 
 Picture, 359 ; Plate, 360 ; Shaving and 
 Surgery, 360 ; Theatre, by Inigo Jones, 
 359. Blacksmiths' Hall, 360. Brewers' 
 Hall : Painted Glass and Pictures, 360; 
 Wliittington informer,360. Bricklayers' 
 Hall, 360. Butchers' Hall, 360. Car- 
 penters' Hall: Bas-reliefs, Bust, and 
 Ceiling, 360 ; Frescoes discovered in 
 1845, 361 ; Plate, 361. Coachmakers' 
 Hall, and its Debating Societies, 361. 
 Coopers' Hall: State Lotteries drawn 
 here, 361. Cordwainers' Hall : Chari- 
 ties, Plate, and Sculpture, 362. Curriers' 
 Hall : Calamy preached, 362. Cutlers' 
 Hall : Mrs. Craythorne's Portrait, 362. 
 Dyers' Hall : Swans upon the Thames, 
 362. Embroiderers' Hall, 362. Poun- 
 ders' Hall, 268, 363. Girdlers' Hall : 
 Election Ceremonies, Girdle and Grid- 
 iron, 363. Innholders' Hall, 363. Join- 
 ers' Hall : Carvings, 363. Leather- 
 sellers' Hall: Crypt, Kitchen, Pump, 
 and Screen, 363. Masons' Hall : Free 
 Masons, 363. Painter-stainers' Hall : 
 Camden's Cup, Fines on Foreign Paint- 
 ers, Inigo Jones and Vandyke, 363 ; 
 Catton Master, Plate, 364. Parish 
 Clerks' Hall: "Bills of Mortality," 
 Paintings, and Miracle Plays, 364. 
 Pewterers' Hall : Portrait and " touch," 
 Macklin's Oratory, 364. Pinmakers' 
 Hall: a Dissenters' Meeting-house, 
 
 364. Plasterers' Hall: Ceilings, 364. 
 Plumbers' Hall, 364. Porters' Hall: 
 Tackle and Ticket Porters, 364. Sad- 
 dlers' Hall: Blackmore, Sir Richard; 
 Funeral Pall, Garth's Epigram, Portrait, 
 
 365. Stationers' Hall: Almanacs and 
 Almanac-day, 366; Barge, 366; Book 
 Entries, 366; Carvings, 365; Funeral 
 Feast of Sutton, 366; Lord Mayor's 
 Day Custom, 366 ; Music Feasts, 365 ; 
 Painted Glass, 365 ; Plate, 366 ; Por- 
 traits, 365. Tallow-chandlers' Hall, 
 
 366. Watermen's Hall : Thames Water- 
 men's Privileges, Taylor the Water-poet, 
 
 367. Wax-chandlers' Hall, 367. Wea- 
 vers' Hall : Cloth and Tapestry Wea- 
 
 Ivers ; old Picture of Lee, and the first 
 I Stocking-Loom, 367. 
 [ALLS, MISCELLANEOUS : Blackwell 
 Hall and Basing's Hall, 368 ; Bridewell 
 Iall,53; Charter-house Hall, 72 ; Chel. 
 Hospital Hall, 77 ; Christ's Hospital 
 '1, 80. Commercial Hall : its Bassi- 
 n, 369. Crosby Hall, 130. Egyp- 
 L Hall,Mansion House,4?9,and Picca- 
 jr, 266. Exeter Hall, 287. Flaxman 
 
 Hall : Models by Flaxman, his Statue, 
 
 369. Freemasons' Hall, 314 ; Gerard's 
 Hall, 241 ; Gresham Hall, 209. Hall 
 of Commerce: Bas-relief by Watson, 
 Macready Dinner, Moxhay Builder, 
 Whittington's Statue, 369. Hicks's 
 Hall, 177, 370; Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany's Hall, and its Curiosities, 370; 
 Inns of Court Halls, see INNS or COURT ; 
 Lambeth Palace Hall, 444 ; S. Martin's 
 Hall, 370; S. Matthew's Town Hall, 
 Bethnal Green, 370 ; Royal Music Hall, 
 
 370. Southwark Town Hall : Statue of 
 Charles II., 371. Union Hall, South- 
 wark, 371 ; University Hall, 371 ; Wes- 
 leyan Centenary Hall, 371 ; Westmin- 
 ster Guildhall, 371 ; Westminster Hall, 
 762 ; Westminster College Hall, 212. 
 
 HAYMARKET, THE : Drying-ground, 371 ; 
 James's- st. andTennis Court, 372 ; Nor- 
 ris-st.,372; Opera House, 372 ; Suffolk 
 Place and Street, 372 ; Theatre, 372. 
 
 HIPPODROME, THE, 372. 
 
 HOLBORN : Bars, 373 ; Day's Charity to 
 the Blind, 374 ; Endell-street, and its 
 Institutions, 374; Gerrard, the Her- 
 balist, 373 ; " Heavy Hill," 373 ; Hoi- 
 born Charity Estate, 374; Inns of 
 Court, see; Kidder, the Pastrycook, 
 374; Kingsgate-street, 374 ; Old Bourne 
 and Bridge, 373 ; Southampton House 
 and Buildings, 374; Turnstiles, 374; 
 Whetstone's Park, 374. 
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, KENSINGTON : Addi- 
 son at, 375 ; Breakfast-room, 376 ; 
 Busts, 375; Cope, Sir Walter, 374; 
 Dahlia first raised, 376; Duel near, 
 376 ; Fairfax's Quarters, 375 ; Fox, C. 
 J. 375; Gardens and Grounds, 376; 
 Gilt Room, 375 ; Holland, first Earl of, 
 374; Inigo Jones's Gateway, 375 ; Jour- 
 nal-room, 375 ; Library, or Long Gal- 
 lery, 376; Pictures, 376; Plays at, 375; 
 Rogers's Alcove, 376 ; Thorpe's Draw- 
 ings, 375 ; Trees, fine, 376 ; Whig Party, 
 377 ; White Horse Inn, 376. 
 
 HORSE-FERRY, THE: Escape of James 
 II., 377. 
 
 HORSEGUARDS, THE : Cavalry mounted 
 Guard, 378 ; Pictures at, 378. 
 
 HORSEGUARDS CLOCK described by B. 
 L. VuUiamy, 378-380. 
 
 HOSPITALS : S. Bartholomew's, 31 ; Beth- 
 lem, 42; Charing Cross, 380; City of 
 London Lying-in, 380 ; City of London, 
 for Diseases of the Chest, 380. Con- 
 sumption, 380: Mdlle. Lind's munifi- 
 cence, 380; Memorial Chapel, 380. 
 Dreadnought Hospital-ship, 386. S. 
 George's : Hunter, John and William, 
 Lanesborough House, Telegraph, 381. 
 General Lying-in, 381. Guy's: the 
 Founder, 381; Hunt's charities, 382; 
 Statues of Guy, 382. Hahnemann Hos- 
 pital, 382; Idiots' Asylum, 382; King's 
 College, 383. Leper Hospitals and Locks, 
 ancient, 384 ; Lock Hospital, Chapel, and 
 Asylum, 383; origin of Lock, 383. Lon- 
 
792 
 
 ES T DEX. 
 
 don Fever, 384 ; London Hospital, 384. 
 S. Luke's, 384: S. Luke's-day Festival, 
 385; Lunacv in London, 385. Mary- 
 lebone and Paddinjton, 385. "Middle- 
 sex, 385 : Benefaction-book, 365. Oph- 
 thalmic, 385; Orthopaedic, 385; Queen 
 Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital, 385 ; 
 Royal Free, Subscription-box, 386 ; 
 Royal Maternity Charity, 386. S. 
 Thomas's: Sisters and Nurses, 387 ; 
 Pictures and Statues, 387. University 
 College Hospit., 387 ; Westminster, 387. 
 
 HOUNDSDITCH, 388. 
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON : Aldgate High- 
 street, No. 6, 389 ; Ashburnham House, 
 23 ; Bagnio, Bath-street, 389 ; Ban?or 
 House, 3S9; Baumes, Hoxton, 389; 
 Brookes's Menagerie, 389; Building- 
 materials, 388; Bulk-shops, 390: Bur- 
 net's House. 390 ; Campden House, 
 390 : Canonbury -place, 63 ; Carey- 
 street, 391 ; Carlisle House, 391 ; Cax- 
 ton's House, 4; Cloth Fair, 393 ; Cock 
 and Pye, 391 ; Crosby Hall. 238 ; Dyot's 
 House, S. Giles's, 391; Elizabethan 
 Houses, 391 ; Fleet-street, No. 17, 391 ; 
 Fowler's House, 391 ; Fulwood's Rents, 
 391; Gray's- Inn-lane, 391; Grub-street, 
 391,392; Hale House, 393 ; Holborn 
 Garden-house, 392; Holland House, 374- 
 S77 ; Hoxton, 392 ; Kennington Manor- 
 house, 392; Kensington Ilouse and 
 Schools, 392 ; Lindsey House, Chelsea, 
 393; Lindsey House, Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields, 393; Little Moorfields, 893; 
 Long-lane, Smithfield, 393 ; Maryle- 
 bone Manor-house, 393 ; Milborn's 
 Almshouses, 393 ; Newcastle House, 
 393; Old City Workhouse, 393; Post- 
 office, Lombard-street, 394 ; Queen- 
 street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, 394 ; Robin 
 Hood, Finsbury, 389 : Roman London, 
 389; Schomberg House, 389; Shaftes- 
 bury House, 395 ; Southward Houses, 
 395*; Spanish Ambassador's, Hounds- 
 ditch, 395 ; Staple Inn, 396 ; Star-cham- 
 ber, 396; Strand, 396; Tradescants', 
 396 ; Warwick House, 396 ; Weather- 
 board House-fronts, 356. 
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON : Ansel, St. Cle- 
 ment's, 397 : Hooper, the Martyr, 397 ; 
 Slave Sale, 397. Angel, Islington, 
 396. Ape and Cock Inns, 397; Bap- 
 tist's Head, 397 ; Bell, Letter to Shak- 
 speare, 397; Bell, Abp. Leighton, 397; 
 Belle Sauvage, and Wyatt's Rebellion, 
 398 ; Blossoms, BolMn-Tun, Bull, Bull 
 and Mouth, Clerkenwell, Coach and 
 Horses, Cock, 398; Cross Keys, Ele- 
 phant and Castle. Four Swans* George 
 and Blue Boar, George, Gerard's Hall, 
 Green Man, 399; Holborn-hill (the Rose 
 and Old Bell), King's Arms, Oxford 
 Arms, Paul Pindar's Head, Piccadilly 
 (Black Bear, Half -Moon, Hercules' 
 Pillars, Three Kinsjs, White Bear, White 
 Horse Cellar), 400 ; Pied Bull, Queen's 
 Head, Pindar of Wakefield, Rose of 
 
 Normandy, Saracen's Head, Southwark 
 Inns (Chaucer's Tabard, the Hart, 
 King's Head), 401-402 ; Spread Eagle, 
 Swan with Two Necks, Three Cups, 
 White Hart, 402 ; White Horse, 291 ; 
 Whitefriars, Yorkshire Stingo, 403. 
 
 INNS OF COUKT: Gray's Inn : Bacon and 
 Burghley, 413; eminent Members, 
 413 ; Gardens, 412 ; Gateway, 412 ; 
 Gray's Inn Journal, 413 ; Hall and 
 Chapel, 412; Hall Dinners, 414; Moot- 
 ings, 412. Inner Temple : Dinners, 
 404; eminent Members, 405 ; Gardens, 
 405; Hall and Loving Cups, 404: 
 Masques, Plays, and Revels, 405. Lin- 
 coln's Inn: eminent Members. 
 Gardens, 408; Gatehouse, 407; Ho- 
 garth's "Paul before Felix," 410; Halls, 
 407; Library andMSS.,411; Masques 
 and Christmasings, 408 ; Painted Win- 
 dows, 410; Pictures, 407-410; Royal 
 Visits, 409, 411; Statues, 409; Stone 
 Buildinss, 408 ; Sun-dials, 407; Thur- 
 loe and" Cromwell, 407. Middle Tem- 
 ple: Eminent Members, 406; Feasts, 
 Plays, and Revels, 406; Hall and Pie- 
 tures, 405 ; Sun-dials, 406 ; Wolsey'3 , 
 Gate, 405. Temple, 404: Admission 
 and Call to the Bar, 414; Arms, 414; j 
 Expenses.. 414. 
 
 INNS OF CHANCERY: Barnard's Inn: ] 
 Woulfe, the alchemist, 415. Clement's 
 Inn : Justice Shallow at, 415 ; S. Cle- 
 ment's Well, 415. Clifford's Inn, 415; I 
 Fumival's Inn, 416; Lyon's Inn, 416; 
 New Inn, 416; Scroope's Inn, 416; 
 Serjeants' Inns, Chancery-lane and j 
 Fleet-street, 417; Staple Inn, 417 fl 
 Strand Inn, 417; Symond's Inn, 417 rH 
 Thaive's Inn, 418. 
 
 ISLE OF DOGS, 418. 
 
 ISLINGTON : Canonbury, 419; Cloudes- 
 ley's benefactions, 419; Dairies, 419r 
 Fowler's Lodge, 419; Highbury, 420; 
 HoUoway, 420 ; Inns and Public-houses, 
 Old, 419": New River, 420; Resident*, 
 celebrated,- 421. 
 
 JAMES-STREET, WESTMINSTER : cele- 
 brated Residents ; Tart Hall, 421. 
 
 S. JAMES'S : Clarendon House, 422; 
 Club-houses, 422 ; Fields, 424 ; Gibbon 
 lodged, 422: Gillray, the caricaturist, 
 422 ; Hospital, 421 ; S. Jame3's-placg 
 423; S. James's-street, 425; Jennya- 
 street, 423 ; King-street, 423 ; Pictures, 
 Mr. Rogers', 423; Smith, Charlotte, 
 birthplace of, 423. 
 
 JEWS IN LONDON, 424 : Jews'-row, | 
 Chelsea, 426. Jews' Synagogues: New, 
 Great S. Helen's, 179 ;' wrixmdon, ISO. 
 
 S. JOHN'S GATE, CLERKENWELL: Cave, 
 Garrick, and Johnson, 427 ; Church of 
 S. John, 428 ; Gentleman's Magazine, 
 427; Knights of S. John, 426; Jeru- 
 salem Tavern, 42" ; No-man's Laud, 
 426 ; Prior Dockwra, 426. 
 
 S. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL: Precinct, 
 42S ; Priory Church, 429 ; Queens Elea- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 793 
 
 nor and Philippa, 428 ; Regent's Park, 
 429; School, 429. 
 
 KENNINGTON, 430. 
 
 KENSAL GKEEN and its Cemetery, 430. 
 
 KENSINGTON, BROMPTON,AN i) KNIGHTS- 
 BRIDGE : Brompton, eminent Resi 
 dents, 431. Kensington Gore, 430; 
 Gore House, 431 ; Kensington Gravel, 
 431 ; Kingston House, 431 ; South, Sir 
 James, his Observatory, 431. Knights- 
 bridge : Chinese Collection, Listen the 
 comedian, Rutland Gate, and Mr. 
 Sheepshanks' s Pictures, 432 ; Half- 
 way House and Highwaymen, 433. 
 ENSINGTON GARDENS : Banqueting- 
 room, 434; Bridge, 434; Promenades, 
 434; Queen Caroline, 434; William 
 III. and Queen Anne, 433. 
 
 kENT-STREET, SOUTHWARK : Lock HOS- 
 
 pital, 435. 
 
 LENTISH TOWN: Chapels and Schools, 
 435; Fleet River, 436; Gospel Oak, 
 436; Highwaymen, 436; Kurd's Li- 
 brary, 435 ; Mathews, Charles, 435 ; 
 Mother Red-Cap, 436. 
 
 ILBUHN : Nunnery, 436 ; Wells, 436. 
 
 AMBETH : Astrologers, 438 ; Asylum for 
 Female Orphans, 438; Beaufoy, W. H., 
 439 ; Carlisle House, 437 ; Cuper's 
 Gardens, 437; Glass -making, 439; S. 
 John's Church, 437 ; Marsh, 439 ; 
 Maudslay's Engineering Works, 440; 
 S. Mary's Church, 437; Oakley- street, 
 438; Palace, 437; Pedlar's Acre, 440; 
 Price's Candle Company, 440; Public 
 Gardens, 438 ; Shot Towers, 440 ; The- 
 atres, 438; Vauxhall Pottery, 440; Wa- 
 terworks, 439. 
 
 AMBETH PALACE : Catalogues of Books, 
 MSS. and Letters, 445; Chapel and 
 Crypt, 441, 443 ; Gardens and Grounds, 
 446 ; Gate-house, 442 ; Guard Chamber, 
 443; Halls, 444; Library, 443; Lol- 
 lards' Tower, 442; Post Room, 442; 
 Pictures, 443 ; Prisoners' Inscriptions, 
 443 ; Record Room, 442. 
 
 AW COURTS : Admiralty,. 447 ; Aug- 
 mentations, 447. Central Criminal 
 Court, 447 : Old Bailey Dinners, 448 ; 
 Press-yard, 448 ; Trials, memorable, 
 448. Clerkenwell,187; Court of Arches, 
 257. Court of Chancery: Mace, 450; 
 Great Seal, 449. Courts of Equity, 449. 
 Court of Exchequer : Sheriffs, election 
 of, 450 ; Sheriffs' custom, 450. Insol- 
 vent Debtors' Court, 451 ; Marshalsea 
 and Palace, 451 ; Mayor's, Privy Coun- 
 cil, Rolls, Sheriffs', and Star-chamber, 
 452 ; Westminster Hall, Courts in, 447. 
 
 EADENH ALL -STREET: Eyre's Chapel, 
 452 ; Roman Pavement, 453. 
 
 EICESTER-SQUARE : Craiibourne-alley, 
 455; Burford's Panoramas, 455; Ho- 
 garth lived, 455; Holcroft, Thomas, 456; 
 Leicester House, 453 ; Leicester Place 
 I Street, 453; Leverian Museum, 
 453 ; Miss Linwood's Needlework, 454 ; 
 Newton's house, S. Martin's -street, 
 
 456; Panopticon, the, 455; Reynolds, 
 Sir Joshua, 454; Statue of George I., 
 454 ; Wyld's Model of the Earth, 455. 
 
 LEVELS, 456 : highest ground, 457. 
 
 LIBRARIES: Agricultural Soc., Antiqua- 
 ries' Soc. 457; Artillery Ground, Asi- 
 atic Soc., Astronomical Soc., Bank of 
 England, Barber-Surgeons, Beaumont 
 Instit., Bible Soc., Botanical Soc., Brit- 
 ish Museum 524, Charter-house, Chel- 
 sea Hospital, Christ's Hospital, 458; 
 Church Miss. Soc., Circulating Libra- 
 ries 466, City of London Instit., Civil 
 Engineers' Instit, Clockmakers' Com- 
 pany, Coll. Physicians, Coll. Surgeons, 
 Corporation of London, 459 ; Cottonian, 
 460; Depart. Practical Art, Doctors' 
 Commons 258, Dulwich College 206, 
 Dutch Church, E. I. Company, Free Li- 
 braries 466, Geographical Soc., Geologi- 
 cal Soc., Gresham Coll., Halls (City), 
 Hebrew, 461 ; Heralds' Coll., Horticul- 
 tural Soc., Hospitals, Incorporated Law 
 Soc., Inns of Court, King's Coll., Lam- 
 beth Palace 445, Linnaean Soc., Lite- 
 rary Fund, London Instit., 462 ; Lon- 
 don, S. Martin's, Mathematical Soc., 
 Mechanics' Instit., Medical and Chir. 
 Soc., Merchant Tailors' School, Micro- 
 scopical Soc., Museum of Practical Geo- 
 logy, New College, Parliament Houses, 
 S. Paul's Cathedral, S. Paul's School, 
 463 ; Pharmaceutical Soc., Royal Acad. 
 Arts, Royal Acad. Music, Royal Instit. 
 Architects, Royal Institution, Royal 
 Library, S.James's; Royal Society, 464; 
 Royal Soc. Literature, Russell fnstit., 
 Sion College, Soane, Society of Arts, 
 Statistical Soc., United Service Instit., 
 University College, 465; Westminster 
 Abbey, Wilh'ams's Library, Zoological 
 Society's, 466. 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS : Dimensions, 
 466; Inigo Jones's Plan, 466; Law 
 Courts, 468; Mumpers and Rufflers, 
 467 ; Russell, Lord W., beheaded, 467 ; 
 Turnstiles, 467 ; Turnstile- alley, 468. 
 
 LITERARY. FUND (ROYAL) : Anniversary 
 Odes, 468 ; Canning, Franklin, and Wil- 
 liams, 468. 
 
 LITTLE BRITAIN : Ballard, Franklin, 
 Booksellers, 469 ; Milton, North, Spec- 
 tator, 469; Duke-street, 469. 
 
 LOMBARD-STREET : Bankers, 470, 471 ; 
 Booksellers, 470; George-yard, 470; 
 Gresham's Burse and Shop, 470 ; Lon- 
 
 ? shards, 469; Pope's Merchants, 470; 
 ope, birthplace of, 470; Post Office, 
 471 ; Roman Houses, 470 j Shore's, Jane, 
 husband, 470. 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION : Laboratory and 
 Library, and Davy's great Battery, 471. 
 
 LONDON STONE: Fitz Alwyn, first* 
 Mayor, 472; Jack Cade, 472; Lapis 
 Milliaris, 471; Roman Stone at Lt'.- 
 cester, 471 ; Saxon Charters, 472 ; Wat- 
 ling-street, 472. 
 
 LONDON WALL, 472. 
 
794 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 LONG ACRE : Coachmakers, 473 ; Endell- 
 street, 474; Gardner's Worm Medi- 
 cines, 473; S.Martin's Schools, 474; 
 Mug-house Club, 473 ; Prior, the poet, 
 473; Rose-street, Curll, and Dryden, 
 474; Signs, Old, 473; Taylor, the" Wa- 
 ter-poet, 473. 
 
 LORD MAYOR'S STATE : Buller, Sir G., 
 476 ; Chain and Jewel, 475 ; Collar, 
 474 ; Costume, 474 ; Lord Mayor's Fool, 
 474 ; Mace and Swords, 475 ; Mansion 
 House, 474 ; More, Sir T., and Erasmus, 
 476; Salary of Mayor, 474; Silver 
 Cradle, 47o; Wear "of Robes, 474; 
 Whittington, Sir Richard, 475. 
 
 LUDGATE, LUDGATE HlLL AND STREET: 
 
 Begging at the Grate, 476 ; City Wall, 
 477 ; Gate, ancient, 476 ; Lud's Statue, 
 476 ; Prison, 476 ; Roman Altar, 477 ; 
 Rowley's " Woman never Vext," 476 ; 
 Rundell, the jeweller, 477 ; Wyat's Re- 
 hellion, 477- 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL : Chapel, 478 ; 
 Dingley and Hanway, 477 ; Dodd, Dr., 
 477. 
 
 MANSION HOUSE, T^E : Egyptian Hall, 
 479 ; Portico and Sculpture, 478. 
 
 MANSIONS : Apsley House : China, Pic- 
 tures, and Plate Testimonials, 479, 480 ; 
 "the Duke's Bed-room," 481; Wel- 
 lington Shield, by Stothard, 480; 
 Site, 481. Argyll House, 481 ; Baring's, 
 Mr. T., Pictures, 482; Bath House, 
 Pictures, 482; Beaufort House, 482; 
 Bedford, Duke of, 482; Bridgewater 
 House, Pictures, 483. Burlington 
 House, 483 : Archway, 484. Cambridge 
 House, 484; Chesterfield House, 484; 
 Clarence House, 485 ; De Grey, Earl, 
 485. Devonshire House: Pictures, 
 Claude's Libro di Verita, 485. Dor- 
 chester House, Pictures, 486; Dover 
 House, 486; Dudley House, Pictures, 
 486 ; Ford, Mr. R., 487 ; Garvagh, Lord, 
 487; Gloucester House (Elgin Marbles), 
 487; Grosvenor House, Pictures and 
 Sculpture, 487, 488; Harcourt House, 
 488; Hertford House, Pictures, 488; 
 Holdernesse House, Sculpture, 489 ; 
 Hope House, 488 (Mr. Thomas Hope's 
 mansion, Duchess-street, 489). Lans- 
 downe House : Pictures, 490 ; Sculp- 
 ture, 490. Manchester House, 490. 
 Marlborough House : Vernon Collec- 
 tion, Wellington Funeral Car, 490, 491. 
 Montague House, Portman-square, 491 ; 
 Montague House, Whitehall, Pictures, 
 491; Monro, H. A. J., Pictures, 491; 
 Norfolk House, 492 ; Normanton, Lord, 
 Pictures, 492 ; Northumberland House, 
 Pictures and State Staircase, 492, 493 ; 
 Overstone, Lord, Pictures, 493; Peel, 
 Lady, Pictures, 493; Rutland House, 
 494 ; Spencer House, 494 ; Stafford 
 House, Pictures, 494; Tomline, Mr. G., 
 Pictures, 495 ; Uxbridge House, 495. 
 
 MARKETS : Billingsgate, 495 ; Boroush 
 Market, 496. Clare Market : Joe Mil- 
 
 ler, Theatre, and Taverns, 496 ; Novio- 
 magians/497. Corn Market, Mark- 
 lane, 282 ; Covent Garden Market, 497, 
 498 ; Farringdon, 498 ; Hungerford, 
 Leadenhall, and Newgate, 499 ; New- 
 port, Oxford, and Smithneld, 500; 
 Stocks Market, Street Markets, 501. 
 
 S. MARTIN'S-LANE, 501. 
 
 S. MARTIN'S-LE-GRAXD : College and 
 Curfew, 502 ; General Post Office, Ro- 
 man Remains, Sanctuary, 502. 
 
 MARYLEBOXE : Boroii!rli,"504; Bowling- 
 greens, 503 ; Fields, 503 ; Manor, 502, 
 503 ; Marylebone Gardens andDr.Arne, 
 503; Park, 503; Prize-fighting, 503; 
 Village, 502. 
 
 MAY FAIR: Keith's Chapel, and May- 
 fair Marriages, 504. 
 
 MEWS, ROYAL: Charing Cross, 504; 
 Queen's Mews, 505 ; Royal Mews, 
 Prince's-street, Westminster, 505. 
 
 MIXORIES, THE : Gunsmiths, 506; Hay- 
 don-square and Newton's House, 506 ; 
 Holy Trinity, 506; Roman Remains, 
 506 ; " Soroi-es Minores," 505. 
 
 MINT, THE ROYAL : Establishment and 
 Machinery, 507 ; Newton's Mastership, 
 507; Tower of London, 506; Tower 
 Hill, Little, 507. 
 
 MINT, THE, SOUTHWARK : Marriages, 
 509; Saxon and Norman Mints, 508;. 
 Poor Poets, 509 ; Sanctuary, 509. 
 
 MONUMENT, THE : Admission, 511 $1 
 Cost of, 510; Fire of London, 510; In2 
 scriptions, 510, 511 ; Model of, 510 i 
 Sculpture, 510; Suicides from, 511 jj 
 Wren's Designs, 509. 
 
 MOORFIELDS: Bethlem Hospital, 512; 
 Bone-skate found, 511; Bricks madey 
 512; Calves' Head Club, 512; Fits! 
 Stephen's account, 511; Lackingtol| 
 the bookseller, 513 ; Moor, extent oQI 
 512; Moorgate, 512. 
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH, 513-529: Ad- 1 
 mission : General, 529 ; Print-room, 529 ; J 
 Reading-room, 525. Antiquities: Afc| 
 syriati Sculpture. 51^ : British and An- j 
 glo-Roman, 519; British and Mediaeval, j 
 521 ; Bronze Room, 522 ; Esrqnian Gal- * 
 leries, 521, 522; Elgin Marbles, 530 
 Ethnographical Room, 525 ; Greek and ] 
 Roman Sculptures, 519; Lycian, 521; j 
 Parthenon, 520; Phigaleian, 519; 
 Towneley Collection, 519; Vase Rooms: j 
 Barberini or Portland, and Hamilton, j 
 522, 523. Botanical or Bauksian De- j 
 partment, 518. Entrance-Hall and j 
 Sculpture, 515. Libraries : General, i 
 524; Grenville, 524; King's, 524; 
 Newspapers, 525 ; Reading-room, 52fi. 
 MSS. : Burney, Cottonian, Donation, 
 French History, Hargreave, Harleiau, 
 Howard-Arundel, Lansdowne, Magna 
 Charta, Oriental, Papyri, Rolls and 
 Charters, Royal, Sloanean, 526-52* 
 Print-room, 5~28, 529 ; Portraits, 529. 
 Mineralogy and Geology : Fossils, 518; 
 North Gallery, 518. Montague House 
 
INDEX. 
 
 795 
 
 and Gardens, 513. Portraits, 517. 
 Rebuilt by Sir R. Smirke and Sydney 
 Smirke, 514. Sculpture of Pediment, 
 514. Zoological Collections: Central 
 Saloon, Eastern Gallery, Mammalia 
 Saloon, Northern and Southern Gal- 
 leries, 517. 
 
 MUSEUMS, 529-548: Adelaide Gallery 
 (Steam-Gun and Electrical Eels), 529 ; 
 Anatomical Museums, 529; Antiqua- 
 ries' Society, 530; Antiquities (London), 
 530; Archaeological Association and 
 Institute, 531 ; Architects' Institute, 
 531; Architectural, Asiatic Soc., Auto- 
 graphs, Botanical Soc., 532 ; Brookes's, 
 Bullock's, Civil Engineers', College of 
 Physicians, College of Surgeons, 533 ; 
 Corporation (Beaufoy Tokens, Shak- 
 speare's Town Property, note), 535 ; 
 Cottingham, Cumingian, East India 
 Company, 536 ; Entomological Soc., 
 Geology, Practical, 537; Geological 
 Soc., Geological, Guiana Exhibition, 
 538; Hospitals, Hudson's Bay Comp., 
 Hunter's, King's College, Leverian, 
 Linnsean Soc., 539 ; Manufactures and 
 Ornamental Art, Mead's, Missionary, 
 540; National Repository, Naval Mu- 
 seum, Pharmaceutical Soc., Royal Soc., 
 541 (Newton Relics, 542;; Saltero's, 
 SaulPs, Sloane, Soane, 542 ; Society of 
 Arts, 544 ; Tradescants', Trinity House, 
 United Service Instit., 545 ; University 
 College, Waterloo, Weeks's, Zoological 
 Society, 546. Private Collections of 
 Messrs. Auldjo, Bernal, Chaffers (531), 
 Gwilt, G.andJ., Londesborough (Lord), 
 Magniac, Marryatt, Morgan, Roths- 
 child (Baron), Sainsbury, Slade, Win- 
 dus, 547, 548. 
 
 ATIONAL GALLERY, THE : Admission, 
 549; Angerstein Collection, 549 ; Cata- 
 logues, 549 ; Flemish, French, Italian, 
 and Spanish Schools, 549; Sculpture, 548. 
 EW RIVER, 550. 
 
 JEW-ROAD, THE, 551. 
 
 IEWGATE-STEEET, 552. 
 
 IEWINGTON BUTTS, 552. 
 
 IEWINGTON GUEEN, 553. 
 ITINGTON, STOKE, 553. 
 
 3PAPERS, 556. 
 
 BAILEY, 556. 
 JEWRY, 558. 
 SET, 559. 
 
 JUS, THE, 559. 
 
 [FORD-STREET : Berners-strcet, Cum- 
 1-place, Hanway-street, New 
 cford-street, Newman-street, Pan- 
 a, Portland-place, Stratford-place, 
 L; Wardour-street, 561, 562. 
 ;DDINGTON : Bayswater, 563 ; Bishop's 
 state, 563 ; Brothers, Southcott, and 
 ISpence, 564; Craven Hill, 563; 
 ches and Chapels, 563; Manor 
 n Population, 562 ; Knotting or Not- 
 \ HUl, 563 ; Paddiiigton Green, 563 ; 
 ic-houses, Old, 564 ; Tyburnia, 
 I, 563 ; Westbourne Green, 563. 
 
 PAINTED CHAMBER, THE, 564. 
 
 PALACES, ROYAL, 565-574 : Buckingham 
 House and Palace, 565, 566: King's 
 College Pond Sewer, 569 ; Marble Hall 
 and Grand Staircase, 567 ; Pavilion in 
 Garden, 669; Pictures, 568; Pleasure- 
 grounds, 569 ; Royal Mews, 569 ; 
 Sculpture Gallery, State Apartments, 
 Vestibule, 567. Kensington Palace: 
 Green, 574; Library of the Duke of 
 Sussex, 573 ; Pictures, 573 ; Queen 
 Victoria born, 573 ; State Apartments, 
 573; William III. purchased and en- 
 larged, 572, 573. S. James's Palace in 
 1708, 565; Chapel Royal, 570; Clock, 
 571 ; " Court of S. James's," 570 ; 
 Courts, 571 ; Gentlemen-at-Arins, 571 ; 
 Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, 569 ; 
 Manor-house, 569 ; Pictures, 572 ; State 
 Apartments, 571, 572 ; Tapestry Room, 
 572 ; Yeomen of the Guard, 571. 
 
 PALL MALL : Almack's Gaming Club, 
 578; Angerstein Gallery, 577; British 
 Institution, 577; Byron's, Lord, Duel, 
 576 ; Canary-bird, remarkable, 578 ; 
 Carlton House, 577; Coffee-houses and 
 Taverns, 576; Dodsley's, 575; Gas- 
 lighting, 576 ; Living Skeleton, 576 ; 
 Marlborough House, 575, 578 ; Nell 
 Gwynne's House, 575 ; Ordnance Of- 
 fice, 577 ; Paille-maille, the Game, 574; 
 Rookery, 574; Royal Academy of Arts, 
 576; Schomberg House, 578; Shak- 
 speare Gallery, 577; Sydenham, Dr., 
 575; Thynne's Murder, 577; "Tully's 
 Head," 576; Vernon Collection of Pic- 
 tures, 577; Waterloo Museum, 577. 
 Pall Mall East : Drawings of Lodge's 
 Portraits, 578 ; Hedge-lane, 579 : Thel- 
 wall, John, 579. 
 
 PANCRAS, S. : Battle-bridge, 579 ; Ce- 
 metery, Public, 580 ; Churches and 
 Chapels, 579, 580; Population, 579; 
 Roman Remains, 580; Somers Town, 
 579 ; Village in the fields, 579. 
 
 PANORAMAS : Barker and Burford's, 580, 
 581; De Loutherbourg's, 581; Egyp- 
 tian Hall, 583 ; Mississippi, 582. 
 
 PANTHEON, OXFORD-STREET : Bazaar, 
 583 ; Concerts at, destroyed by Fire, 
 Italian Opera, Masquerades, 582. 
 
 PARKS : Albert, or Finsbury, 583 ; Bat- 
 tersea, 583. Green Park: Arch, 584; 
 Charles II. and James II., 583 ; Con- 
 stitution Hill, 583. Hyde Park : 
 Coaches in, 584; Conduits, 230; Crom. 
 well in, 585 ; Crystal Palace and Great 
 Exhibition of 1851, 587, 588 ; Deer 
 Park, 584; Duels in, 589; Foot-races, 
 584; Gates, 586; Humane Society, 
 589 ; Maying, 585 ; Restoration, 585 ; 
 Reviews, 585 ; Rotten Row, 586 ; 
 Serpentine, the, 588. S. James's Park : 
 Birdcage Walk, 591; Charles I. and 
 Cromwell, 589; Charles II. enlarged, 
 590; Freedom from Arrest, 591 ; Frosts, 
 590; Funeral Procession of the Duke 
 of Wellington, 595 ; Gas-lighting, 594 ; 
 
79<> 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Goldsmith's time, 592; Guns, large, 
 595 ; Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, 589 ; 
 Landscape "Garden, 594 ; Mall and Pall 
 Mall, 590, 594; Menagerie, ,592 ; Mil- 
 ton's Garden-house, 595; Nell Gwyn 
 and Charles II. 592 ; Parade, 595 ; 
 Physique Garden, 591; Promenades, 
 593 ; Rosamond's Pond, 592 ; Skating 
 and Sliding, 591, 592; Trees, old, 593 ; 
 Wagers and Wrestling-matches, 590; 
 Waller's lines, 590. Kennington Park, 
 595. Primrose Hill Park, 596. Re- 
 gent's Park : Botanic Soc. Garden, S. 
 Dunstan's Villa, Lake and Water-fowl, 
 Marylebone Park, Nash's Plan, Obser- 
 vatory, South Villa, Toxophilite Society, 
 Zoological Society's Gardens, 596. Vic- 
 toria Park, Bonner's Fields, 596, 597. 
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES, THE, 597-606 : Ad- 
 mission to, 606; Armada Tapestry, 598; 
 Barry's New Palace, 599; Capital, 
 ancient, 599 ; Central Hall, 602 ; Clock- 
 tower, old, 599; Clock, the great, 600; 
 Cloisters, 602 ; Commons' Lobby, 606 ; 
 Cotton House and Garden, 598 ; Elec- 
 tric Telegraph, 602 ; Exchequer Build- 
 ings, 396 ; Frescoes in the House of 
 Lords, 603 ; Gates, 599 ; Guy Fawkes's 
 Cellar, 598 ; House of Commons, New, 
 605 ; House of Commons, Wren's, 599 ; 
 House of Lords in 1778, 599 ; House of 
 Lords, New, 603; Libraries, 606 ; North 
 Front, 600; Painted Chamber, 564, 
 602; Painted Windows, 603; Peers' 
 Lobby, 605; Prince's Chamber, 603; 
 Refreshment Rooms, 606; River or 
 East Front, 600; Royal Entrance, 603; 
 Royal Throne, 604; S. Stephen's Cha- 
 pel, 597, 598; S. Stephen's Hall, 602; 
 S. Stephen's Porch, 600; South Front, 
 600; Star Chamber, 396 ; Statues, 606 ; 
 Victoria Gallery, 602 ; Victoria Tower, 
 600; West Front, 600; Westminster 
 Palace, 597. 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW : Baldwin and Long- 
 man, 607 ; " Bible and Crown," 607 ; 
 Booksellers, 607; Castle Tavern, 608; 
 Chapter Coffee-house, 607 ; Mercers 
 and Silkmen, 607; Newgate Market 
 Groaning-board, 608 ; Panier-alley, 
 608 ; Pater-nosters, sale of, 606 ; Pater- 
 noster-row, Spitalfields, 608; Religious 
 Tract Society, 607. 
 
 PAVEMENT, 608. 
 
 PENTONVILLE, 610. 
 
 PICCADILLY, 610-615 : Albemarle-street, 
 613,614; Albany, 614; Arlington-street, 
 615 ; Berkeley-street, 613 ; Bolton- 
 street, 612; Bond-street, 614; Bur- 
 dett, Sir Francis, 612 ; Burlington Ar- 
 cade, Gardens, and House, 614; Cla- 
 rendon House, 613 ; Clarges-street, 
 612 ; Cork-street, 614; Devonshire 
 House Play, 612; Dover-street, 613; 
 Egyptian Hall, 266; Figure-yards, 611; 
 Half- Moon-street,612; Hamilton-place, 
 611; Hercules' Pillars, 611; S.James's 
 Church, 615 ; S. James's- street, 423 ; 
 
 Mansions, 611, 612 ; Museum of Prac- 
 tical Geology, 537 ; Name of " Picca- 
 dilly," 610 ; Piccadilly Hall, 610; Sack- 
 ville-street, 615; Shavers' Hall, 611; 
 Stafford- street, 613; Stratton - street, 
 612; Swallow-street, 615; Winstan- . 
 ley's Theatre, 611 ; Picture Collections, 
 see MANSIONS. 
 
 PIMLICO : Ale and Public Gardens, Bel- 
 gravia, Chantrey lived, Ebury Farm, 
 Ranelagh, Stafford-row, Tart Hall, 616. 
 
 PLAGUE, THE GREAT : Accounts by 
 Clarendon, De Foe, Evelyn, and Pepys, 
 617 ; Cock Alehouse, Temple Bar, 618 ; 
 Plague of 1603 and 1625, 619. 
 
 POLICE : City and Liberties, 619 ; Peel's 
 New System, 619; Operation of, 619; 
 City Police, 620; Thames Police, 621. 
 
 POPULATION : Accounts, early, 621 ; 
 Census of 1851, 622 ; Comparative 
 Views, 622 ; Increase of, 623. 
 
 PORT or LONDON : Ancient Importance 
 and Geographical Position, 623; One 
 Day's Business in the Port, 623 ; Exe- 
 cution Dock, 624. 
 
 PORTUGAL-STREET : Duke's JTheatre, 624; 
 Grange Inn, 625 ; Museum of the 
 College of Surgeons, 625 ; Stocks, 626 ; 
 Taverns, 626. 
 
 POST-OFFICE: Clock, 626; Mails, 626 ; 
 Money in Letters, 627; Money-Order 
 Office, 628; S. Martin's-le-Grand, 626; . 
 Number of Letters, 627 ; Penny Post, 
 628 ; Persons employed, 627 ; Rates of 
 Postage, 627 ; Revenue, 627 ; various 
 Sites, 626. 
 
 POULTRY : Booksellers, 628 ; Chapel and 
 Compter, 628 ; Thos. Hood born, 629; 
 Dr. Lamb killed, 628 ; Taverns, 629. 1 
 
 PRIMROSE-HILL: Chalk Farm, 630; 
 Green Berry Hill, and Sir Edmonds- 
 bury Godfrey's Murder, 629 ; Railway 
 Tunnel, 630; Prospect from the Hill, 
 630. 
 
 PRISONS : Admission to inspect, 631 ; Bo- 
 rough Compter, 630; Bridewell, 53; City 
 Prison, Clerk enwell, Clink, Cold bath 
 Fields, Giltspur-street, 631 ; Horse- 
 monger- lane Gaol, 632 ; Ludgate Prison, 
 Marshalsea, 632 ; Middlesex House of 
 Detention, Millbank Prison, Newgate, 
 633 : Memorable Imprisonments, 634; 
 Pentonville Prison, 635 ; Poultry Comp- 
 ter, Queen's Prison Rules, 636 ; Savoy 
 Prison, Tothill Fields' Bridewell, 637; 
 Tower, Westminster Gatehouse, White- 
 cross-street, 638. 
 
 QUEENHITHE, 638. 
 
 RAILWAY TERMINI: Blackwall, E. and 
 W. India Docks, Eastern and N. E. 
 Counties, Great Northern, 639; Great 
 Western, North-Western, 640; South- 
 Eastern, South-Western, Thames Junc- 
 tion, 641. 
 
 RANELAGH : Concerts, 641 ; Fireworks, 
 642 ; Installation Ball, 642 ; Masquer- 
 ade, 642 ; Peace Fete, Ranelagh House 
 taken down, 642. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 797 
 
 RECORDS, PUBLIC: Keepers, 643; Pal- 
 grave, Sir F., on, 642 ; Record Reposi- 
 tory, New, 643; Rolls, Master of, 643. 
 
 REGENT-STBEET: Architects, Faubert's 
 Passage, 644 ; Langham-place, 645 ; 
 Polytechnic Institution and its Diving- 
 bell, 645; Quadrant, 644; Tenison's 
 Chapel, Waterloo-place, 644. 
 
 ROMAN I^NDON, 645-652 : Aldgate, Bar- 
 bican, Billingsgate, Bishopsgate, Broad- 
 street, Old, 647 ; Cannon-street, Cheap- 
 side, 649; Collections of Roman Re- 
 mains, 646 ; Colonisation of London, 
 645 ; Conyers' Collection, 647; Crutched 
 Friars, Dowgate, Finsbury, Foster-lane, 
 S. George's-in-the-East, Grey Friars, 
 648 ; Houndsditch, Islington, King- 
 William-street, Leadenhall-street, 649 ; 
 Llyn-dun and Londinium, 645; Lom- 
 bard-street, London Stone, Lothbury, 
 649 ; Ludgate, S. Martin's-lane, S. 
 Martin's-le Grand, Moorfields, S. Pan- 
 eras, Pavements, S. Paul's, 650; Royal 
 Exchange, Shadwell, Southwark, Spital- 
 fields, Strand, Threadneedle- street, 
 Thames River, Thames-street, Tower, 
 Tower-hill, 651; Tradescants' Collec- 
 tion, 646; Walbrook, 652; Wall, 646; 
 Watling-street, 646; Whitechapel, 652. 
 
 ROTHERHITHE : Thames Tunnel, 652. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF AETS : Diploma 
 Pictures and Sculpture, 653; Exhibi- 
 tion, the, 654 ; Foundation and Mem- 
 bers, the, 653 ; National Gallery, 653 ; 
 Origin of, 652 ; Student's Qualification, 
 654. 
 
 ROYAL EXCHANGE, see EXCHANGES, pp. 
 273-286. 
 
 &OYAL INSTITUTION: Admission, 654; 
 Banks, Cavendish, Davy, and Rumford, 
 Founders, 652; Laboratory, 654; Vol- 
 taic Battery, Davy's great, 654. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY : Arundel House, 655 ; 
 Busts, 656 ; Charter, first, 655 ; Char- 
 ter-book, 657 ; Chelsea College, 655 ; 
 Crane-court, 656; Davy's Safety-lamp 
 Model, 657 ; Gresham College, 655 ; 
 Mace, 656; Medals, 657; Newton's 
 Principia, 656 ; Pictures, 656 ; Origin 
 of the Society, 655 ; Oxford Meetings, 
 655; Philosophical Transactions com- 
 menced, 655; Presidents, 657; Royal 
 Society Club, 657; Somerset House, 
 668 ; Weld's History, 657. 
 
 SAVOY, THE, 658: Flint-glass Manufac- 
 tory, 659 ; Marriages, 659 ; Palace and 
 Prison, S. Mary's Church, 659 ; Vertue's 
 Survey, 659. 
 
 SEWERS : Fleet Sewer, 659. 
 
 SHERIFFS : Journal of Sheriff Hoare, 660. 
 
 SHOHEDITCH : Curtain Theatre, Holy well 
 Lane and Mount, 662 ; Jane Shore, 661 ; 
 S. Leonard's Church, 662; Soerdich 
 Family, 661. 
 
 SKINNER-STREET AND SNOW-HILL, 662 : 
 Bunyan's Death, 663 ; Ladies' Charity 
 School, 663. 
 
 SMITHFIELD : Bartholomew Fair, 30 ; 
 
 Boiling to Death, 664 ; Cock-lane, 664 ; 
 "The Elms," 663; Jack Straw, 663; 
 Live Market, 500, 663 ; Martyrs burnt, 
 664; Ordeal Combats, 663; Race-course, 
 663"; Richard II. and Wat Tyler, 663,; 
 Tournaments and Jousts, 663. 
 
 SMITHFIELD, EAST, 664. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES: Admission, 
 665 ; Archseologia, 665 ; Library, 458 ; 
 Museum, 530 ; Obligation Book, 665 ; 
 Origin of the Society, 536, 664 ; Presi- 
 dents, 665 ; Publications by, 665. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS : Aikin, Arthur, 666 ; 
 Awards, early, 665 ; Barry's Paintings, 
 666 ; Exhibitions and Premiums, 666 ; 
 Hope, Mr. Thomas, Vice-President, 666 ; 
 Library, 465; Meetin-places,665; Mu- 
 seum, 544 ; Origin of the Society, 665 ; 
 Presidents, 665 ; Swiney Cup, 666. 
 
 SOHO : Carlisle House and Street, Church, 
 Gerard, Greek, Macclesfield, and 
 Prince's Streets, 667; Residents, emi- 
 nent, 667 ; Soho, Etymology of, 667 ; 
 Turk's Head and Literary Club, 667. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD: Alchemy, 668; 
 Chapel Goods, 668 ; Cowley and Wai- 
 ler on, 669 ; Denmark House, 668 ; 
 Friary, Old and New, 669 ; John of 
 Padua, Architect, 668 ; Lyings-in-State, 
 668. 669 ; Masquerades, 669 ; Protector 
 Somerset, 668. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE : Chambers, Sir W., 
 Architect, 669 ; Government Offices, 
 670; Prospect, 670; Sculpture, 670; 
 Thames Front and Terrace, 670; Watch- 
 face, 671 ; West Wing, 671. 
 
 SOUTH-SEA HOUSE, THE : Gay, the 
 Poet, 672; Newton and Prior, 671; 
 Pope and Swift, 672 ; South-Sea Com- 
 pany, 6?2; South- Sea Scheme, 671; 
 Stock, 671. 
 
 SOUTHWARK : Almshouses, 675 ; Arms, 
 675 ; Bankside and Bear-gardens, 
 674; Blackman-street, 672; Borough, 
 the, 667; Bridge House, 673; Clock- 
 tower, 672 ; Deadman's-place, 675 ; 
 Domesday, 672 ; Etymologies, 672 ; 
 Fortified, 673 ; High-street, 673 ; Hors- 
 leydown, 674; Manors, 673; S. Mary 
 Overie's, 674 ; Mints for Coinage, 673 ; 
 Montague - close, 674 ; Picturesque 
 House-fronts, 673; Rochester House, 
 675 ; Roman, 672 ; Saxon, 672 ; South- 
 wark sold to the Citizens, 672 ; Tokens, 
 675 ; Tooley-street, 673 ; " Tumble- 
 down Dick," 673 ; Winchester House, 
 673; Wyat's Rebellion, 673. 
 
 SOUTHWARK FAIR, 675. 
 
 SPITALFIELDS : Christ Church, 677 ; 
 Crispin-street, 677; Fair, 676; Fami- 
 lies, Old, 677 ; Lolesworth, 676 ; S. 
 Mary Spittle, 676; Mathematical So- 
 ciety, 677; Protestant Refugees, 677; 
 Roman Cemetery, 676 ; Weavers, 677. 
 
 SPRING GARDEN: Centlivre and Gibber, 
 679; Closed by Cromwell, 678; Ex- 
 hibitions, 679 ; Garden in 1659, 678 ; 
 Locket's Ordinary, 679 ; Milton's Lodg- 
 
798 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ing, 679; Name of Spring Garden, 
 678 ; Prince Rupert, 679. 
 
 SQUARES: Bedford, Belgrave, Berkeley, 
 Chester, and Eaton, 679 ; Bloomsbury, 
 Bridgewater, Brunswick, Bryanstone, 
 Cavendish, 680 ; Charter-house, Coveut 
 Garden, Euston, Finsbury, Fitzroy, 
 Golden, Gordon, Haydon, 681 ; Gough, 
 Grosvenor, Hanover, S. James's, 682 ; 
 Leicester, 453; Lowndes, Manchester, 
 Mecklenberg, Myddleton, Portman, 
 683; Prince's (two), Queen (two), Red 
 Lion, Russell, Salisbury, Soho, 684; 
 Tavistock, Trafalgar (gigantic whale), 
 685 ; Vincent, Wellclose, Woburn, 686. 
 
 STATE COACHES : Anne, 686 ; Charles I., 
 686; Elizabeth's, 686. Lord Mayor's 
 State Coach : Carving, Cost, Design, 
 Paintings, 688, 689. Mews, Royal, 688. 
 Queen's State Coach : Carving, Coat, 
 Design, Paintings, first used, 686, 687. 
 Speaker's State Coach: Carving and 
 Paintings, 688. 
 
 STATUES: Charles I., 690; James II., 
 691 ; Yarious, 690-692 ; Wellington, 692. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, THE : Rebuilt, 692 ; 
 Stockbrokers, eminent, 693. (See. also 
 EXCHANGES, p. 284.) 
 
 STRAND, THE: Adam-street, 696; Adel- 
 phi, the, 1, 695; Adelphi Theatre, 703; 
 Arundel House, 697 ; Arundel-street, 
 699; Bacon, Lord, at York House, 694; 
 Beaufort-buildings, 696 ; Bedford-street, 
 703 ; Buckingham-street, 695 ; Butcher- 
 row, 700; Catherine-street, 702; Cecil 
 and Salisbury Streets. 696 ; Clement's 
 Inn, 701; S." Clement Danes, 693; S. 
 Clement's Hall, 701 ; Craven-street, 
 694 ; Devereux-court, 700 ; Doily's, 702 ; 
 Durham Place, 696 ; Electric Clock, Tele- 
 graph, and Time-ball, 703; Essex House 
 and Street, 699; Exeter-street, 702; 
 Fountain Court and Tavern, 696, 697 ; 
 Hollar's View of London, 698 ; Holywell- 
 street, 701 ; Hungerford-street, 694 ; 
 John-street, 695 ; King-William-street, 
 703 ; Maiden-lane, 703 ; Mansions, 693 ; 
 Maypole, the, 702 ; May pole.alley, 701 ; 
 Milford-lane, 699 ; Nan'Clarges' father's 
 Shop, 701 ; Newcastle-street, 701 ; Nor- 
 folk - street, 698 ; Northumberland 
 Court, House, and Street, 693 ; Old 
 Strand, 693 ; Palsgrave-place, 700 ; 
 Queen's Head public-house, Old Parr 
 at, 703; Ries's Divan, 696 ; Savoy Steps 
 and Street, 697 ; Ship-yard and" Shire- 
 lane, 700; Snow, the Goldsmith, 700; 
 Somerset Hotel, 697 ; Southampton- 
 street, 702; Strand-lane, 697; Strand 
 Theatre, 697 ; Surrey-street, 698 ; Tem- 
 ple Bar, 700 ; Tonson, the Publisher, 
 697 ; Turk's Head Coffee-house, 697 ; 
 Water-gate of York House, 695 ; Water- 
 works, York -buildings, 695 ; Wellington- 
 street N., 702 ; West Strand, 703 ; Wor- 
 cester House, 696 ; Wych-street, 701 ; 
 York House and York-buildings, 694. 
 
 TATTERSALL'S, 704. 
 
 i TEMPLE, THE, see INNS OF COURT, 404. 
 
 TEMPLE BAR: Apartment over, 705; 
 Funeral of the Duke of Wellington, 
 706; Gates, 705; Original Bar, 704; 
 Proclamation at, 705 ; Royal Visits, 
 705; Statues, 704; Traitors' Heads, 
 705 ; Wren, Sir C., Architect, 704. 
 
 THAMES RIVER, THE : Bridges, 708 ; 
 Conservancy, 709 ; Docks, 709 ; Em- 
 bankment, 706 ; Fish, 709 ; " Folly," 
 710; Frosts and Frost Fairs, 315 ; Isle 
 of Dogs, 710 ; London like a Whale, 
 707 ; Pageants and Sports, 707 ; State 
 Barges, State Funerals, 708 ; Steam 
 Navigation, 710; Taylor, the Water- 
 poet, 708; Tides, 707; Turner, R.A., 
 died, 707, note ; Water of the Thames, 
 709 ; Watermen, 708. 
 
 THAMES-STREET : Addle-hill, 710 ; Bil- 
 lingsgate, 45, 195 ; Boss-court, 710 ; 
 Castle Baynard Wharf, 710; City Flour- 
 mill, 710; Coal Exchange, 281; Cold 
 Harbour, 711 ; Custom House, 246 ; 
 Dowgate, 710; Galley Quay, 711 ; Gar- 
 lick Hill or Hithe, 710 ; Laurence- 
 Pountney-hill, 711 ; Lower Thames- 
 street, 711 ; S. Martin's-lane, 711 ; 
 Old Swan House and Stairs, 711 ; Petty 
 Wales, 711 ; Pudding-lane, 711; Puddle- 
 dock, 710; Queenhithe, 638; River Wall, 
 710; Signs and Wharfs, 711; Steelyard, 
 711 ; Suffolk-lane, 711 ; Upper Thames- 
 street, 710; Water-lane, 711. 
 
 THAMES TUNNEL : Brunei's Plan, 712; 
 Cost and Dimensions, 713; Annual 
 Fair held in, 713; Gravesend to Til- 
 bury, 712; Hood's Ode to Brunei, 712 ; 
 Ope'ning of the Tunnel, 713; Shield, 
 713 ; Visitors, 713. 
 
 THEATRES, 713-722: Adelphi, 'Argyll 
 Rooms, 713 ; Astley's (Astley and 
 Ducrow), Bankside (Globe, Hope, Rose, 
 and Swan), Blackfriars, 714; Bruns- 
 wick, Cockpit or Phoenix, Covent Gar- 
 den, 715 ; Curtain, Drury-lane, 716 ; 
 Dorset Gardens, Duke's, Eagle Tavern, 
 Fortune, Gibbon's-court, Goodman's- 
 fields, 717; Haymarket, S. James's, 
 Lyceum, Marionette, 718; Marylebone, 
 Mil ton-street, Newiugton Butts, Nur- 
 sery, Olympic, Pantheon, Princess', 
 Queen's, 719 ; Red Bull, Royalty, Sad- 
 ler's Wells, Salisbury-court, Sans" Souci, 
 Soho, Strand, 720; Surrey, "the Thea- 
 tre," Victoria, Whitefriars, 721. Opera 
 Houses, Italian : Her Majesty's, 721 ; 
 Royal Italian, 722 ; Stage of the Italian 
 Opera, 722. 
 
 THREADNEEDLE-STREET : Crown Tavern, 
 the Sidneys, 722 723. 
 
 TOKENS: Beaufoy Collection and Burn's 
 Catalogue, Tokenhouse-yard, 723. 
 
 TOTTENHAM-COURT-ROAD, 723. 
 
 TOWER OF LONDON, 725-740 : Admission, 
 740; Armouries, 735-738; Beauchamp 
 Tower and its Inscriptions, 728 ; Bell 
 Tower, 728 ; Bloody Tower, 731 ; 
 Bowyer and Brick Towers, 730; Broad 
 
INDEX. 
 
 799 
 
 Arrow Tower, 730; Byward Tower, 
 728; Chapel of S. John, 733; Chapel 
 of S. Peter, 155 ; Cobham Tower, 728 ; 
 Constable Tower, 730 ; Constable of 
 the Tower, 734; Coronation Proces- 
 sions, 725 ; Cradle Tower, 728 ; De- 
 vereux Tower, 730 ; Devilin Tower, 
 728; Execution, Place of, 732; Tires, 
 Great, 725, 727; Flint Tower, 730; 
 Fortifications, 727 ; Garden Tower, 731 ; 
 Gentleman Gaoler, 734; Grand Store- 
 house, 727 ; Green, 732 ; Guns, large, 
 738 ; Hall Tower, 731 ; Horse Armoury, 
 735 ; Imprisonments, memorable, 733 ; 
 Iron-gate Tower, 728; Julius Cses;ir, 
 724; Lantern Tower, 731 ; Lieutenant's 
 Lodgings, 731 j Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 734; Lion Tower, 727 ; " Little Ease," 
 732; Locking-up the Tower, 735 ; Mar- 
 tin Tower, 730 ; Menagerie, 727 ; Mews, 
 727; Middle Tower, 727; Mint, 728; 
 Moat or Ditch, 727; Origin of, 724; 
 Ordnance Office and Storehouses, 731 ; 
 Overbury's Murder, 724 ; Palace, 727 ; 
 Plan of the Tower in 1553, 726 ; Queen 
 Elizabeth's Armoury, 737 ; Raleigh's 
 Imprisonments, 730, 759 ; Record 
 Tower, 731 ; Records and Keepers, 
 731; Regalia, or Crown Jewels, 738- 
 740; Salt Tower, 730; Shakspeare's 
 Richard III., 724 ; Small Armoury, 
 
 727 ; Sovereigns resident in the Tower, 
 724, 725 ; Tower Guns, 728 ; Traitor's 
 Gate, 728 ; Wakefield Tower, 731 ; 
 Waterloo Barracks, 732 ; Well Tower, 
 
 728 ; Wellington, Statue of, 732 ; White 
 Tower, or Keep, 724, 732; Yeomen 
 Warders, 735. 
 
 TOWER HILL : Executions, 741 ; Postern- 
 row, 740 ; Tower Dock, 741 ; Tower 
 Liberties, 740 ; Tower-street, 741. 
 
 TOWER ROYAL, 741. 
 
 TREASURY, THE : Barry's Design, Cock- 
 pit, Privy Council Chamber, Soane's 
 Design, Throne and Treasurer's Chair, 
 York Place, 742. 
 
 TRINITY HOUSE : Busts, 743 ; Corpora- 
 tion and Masters, 742, 743 ; Old Tri- 
 nity Houses, Paintings, 743. 
 
 TYBURN AND " TYBURN THEE :" Elms, 
 the, 743 ; Executions, memorable, 744 ; 
 Gallows, 743, 744; Ty bourn, 9r brook, 
 743 ; Tyburn Road and Turnpike, 744. 
 [UNIVERSITY or LONDON, THE, 745. 
 I VAUXHALL GARDENS : Admission-money, 
 748 ; Canute's Trench, 745 ; Faux, or 
 Vaux, 745 ; Fireworks, 748 ; Fortifica- 
 tions, 745 ; Fnlke's Hall, or Faukeshall, 
 745 ; Goldsmith at Vauxhall, 747 ; 
 Hayman's Pictures, 748 ; Hogarth's 
 Gold Ticket, 746; Hogarth's Pic- 
 tures, 746, 748; Lamps, 747 ; M9rland, 
 Sir Samuel, 745; Music and Singers, 
 748 ; Music-house, Orchestra, and 
 Rotunda, 747 ; Pepys's Visits, 745 ; 
 Rooms, old, 7*6 ; Roubiliac's Statues of 
 Milton and Handel, 746 ; Sale of Pic- 
 tures, 748 ; Silver Tickets, 746 ; Spec- 
 
 tator, the, 747; Spring Garden, 745; 
 Suppers, 748 ; Tyers's Lease, 746 ; Tyers, 
 Death of, in the Gardens, 747 ; Vittoria 
 Fete and Waterloo Spectacle, 748 ; 
 Wycherley's account, 746. 
 
 WALBROOK, 748. 
 
 WAPPING : Ames, the ship-chandler; John 
 Day and Fairlop Fair; Execution 
 Dock ; Jeffreys, Judge, killed, 749 ; Ta- 
 verns, Wappiug Old Stairs, 750. 
 
 WATER-SUPPLY OF LONDON: Artesian 
 Wells, 751; Chelsea Works, 750; Con- 
 duits, 228 ; Daily Supply, 751 ; London 
 Bridge Works, 55 ; East London Works, 
 750; Grand Junction Works, 750; 
 Hampstead Works, 751; Lambeth 
 Works, 751 ; Morice's Jet, 750 ; New 
 River, 550 ; Southwark and Vauxhall 
 Works, 751 ; Wells in London, 751 ; 
 West Middlesex Works, 750; York 
 Buildings Works, 694. 
 
 WATLING-STREET -. its History and 
 Route, 752. 
 
 WAX-WORK SHOWS : Dubourg's, 753 ; 
 Moutanari's, 753; Oriental and Turk- 
 ish Museum, 755 ; Queen's Bazaar, 
 753; Salmon's Wax-work, 308. Tus- 
 SAUD'S : Chamber of Horrors, Hall of 
 Kings, Napoleon Relics, Relics, Mis- 
 cellaneous, 254; Tussaud, Madame, 
 253. Westminster Abbey, 753. 
 
 WESTMiNSTER.755-762 : Abingdon-street, 
 Almonry, Artillery-place, S. Anne's- 
 lane, Barton-street, Broadway, Canon- 
 row, 756; Charles-street, Dean's-yard, 
 Duke, Fludyer, and Francis Streets, 
 Gardener's -lane, Gate -house, Great 
 George-street, 757; Horseferry, 377; 
 James-street, 421; King-street, Mill- 
 bank-street, 758 ; Palace-yard (New and 
 Old), Palmer's Village, 759 ; Park-street, 
 Petty France, Priuce's-street, Queen- 
 square, Rochester-row, Sanctuary, 760; 
 Signs, old, 756 ; Thorney Island, 755 ; 
 Tothill Fields and TothiU-street, 761 ; 
 Tufton-street, Victoria-street, Vine- 
 street, Wood-street, Woolstaple, 762. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL: Coronation and 
 Christmas Festivals, 764, 765 ; Courts 
 of Justice, 764 ; Dimensions, 763 ; 
 Feasts in, 764; Galilee, 763; Heaven, 
 Hell, and Purgatory, 764 ; Parliaments, 
 764; Richard II., 763; Roof, 763; 
 Shops or Stalls, 765 ; Statues, 763 ; S. 
 Stephen's Porch, 763 ; Trials in, 764 ; 
 William Rufus, 762 ; William of Wyke- 
 ham, 763. 
 
 WHITECHAPEL, 766. 
 
 WHITECROSS-STHEET, 766. 
 
 WHITEFRIARS : Alsatia, 767 ; Carmelite 
 Convent, 766; Fencing- masters, Fri- 
 ary-house, Players and Poets, Sanctu- 
 ary, 767. 
 
 WHITEHALL: Banqueting House, 769; 
 Chapel, 166, 769; Charles I., Execution 
 of, 769 ; Charles II., 770, 771 ; Crom- 
 well at, 770 ; Downing-street, 772 ; 
 Elizabeth at, 769; Fife House, 770; 
 
800 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Fire at, 771 ; Gardens and Dials, 771 ; 
 Government Offices, 772 ; Henry VIII. 
 rebuilt, 768; Holbein at, 768; Inigo 
 
 Jones's Plan, 769 ; James I., 769 ; 
 James II., 771 ; Mary at, 768 ;,National 
 Club-house, 772 ; Parliaments, 768 ; 
 Portland Museum and Vase, 772 ; 
 Portland Stone, 768 ; Remains of the 
 Old Palace, 771 ; Scotland-yard, 772 ; 
 Whitehall Gardens and Yard, 772 ; Wol- 
 sey's Palace, 767 ; York Place, 767. 
 
 WINDOWS or PAINTED AND STAINED 
 GLASS : Churches and Chapels: All 
 Saints' (S. John's Wood and Margaret- 
 street), S. Andrew's, S. Barnabas', S. 
 Bride's, S. Catherine's Cree, Christ 
 Church, S. Dunstan's W., 773 ; S.Dun- 
 stan's E., S. George's, S. Giles's, Im- 
 maculate Conception, S.James's, 774; 
 S. John's, S. Katherine's, S. Leonard's, 
 Lincoln's Inn, S. Margaret's, 775 ; S. 
 Mary's, S. Stephen's, Temple Church, 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 776. Miscella 
 neous : Crosby Hall, Field of Cloth-of - 
 Gold, Guildhall, Inns of Court, 777 ; 
 Jerusalem Chamber, Lambeth Palace . 
 Listowel House, Northumberland \ 
 House, Lambeth Pedlar, Soane Mu- 
 seum, S. Stephen's Porch, 778. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, THE % 
 Admission of Members to the Society J 
 781 ; Animals, early, 779 ; Aquatic Vi- 
 varium, 780; Cost of Animals, 781,' 
 Founders, 779; Lake, Regent's Park. 
 779 ; Menagerie, the, commenced, 779 a 
 Museum, 779 ; Number of Animals,' 
 781; Prospectus, original, 779 ; Public, 
 Admission of, 781 ; Raffles, Sir S., 779 d 
 Rent of Gardens, 781 ; Royal Donors] 
 779; Society instituted, 779; Site, 778: 
 Tower Menagerie, 779 ; Visitors, Num-i 
 her of, 781 ; Zoological Club, 779. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, THE SURREYJ 
 781. 
 
 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, 782-784. 
 
 LI BKAK V 
 MVERSITV OF I 
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