SAILINC DIRECTIONS ' * FOK THt I'HE ITED STATES, BOSTON AND THE "MISSISSIPPI, THE GULF OF FLORIDA THE COA- TO HAVANA. LOXDOX : PUBLISHED BY R. H. LAURIE, FLEET bTl'.KET. UCSB LIBRARY y^ (sfr-kS**) SAILING DIRECTORY FOR THE COAST OF THE UNITED STATES, BETWEEN BOSTON AND THE MISSISSIPPI, INCLUDING THE GULF OF FLORIDA, AND THE COAST OF CUBA TO HAVANA. TO ACCOMPANY THE' CHAKT. BY ALEXANDER GEORGE FINDLAY, Fellow of ttve Royal Geographical Society. LONDON : PUBLISHED FOR RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, E.C. 1873. PART I. BOSTON TO CHAELESTON. CONTENTS. VAOR NOTE ON THE BKARING3 AND VARIATION'S OF THE CoMPASK, 1875 1 SECTION I. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. BANKS and SHOALS off Cape Cod, &c., 2 ; St. George's Banks, 2 ; Cashe's Ledge, 4 ; the Fippenies and Stellwagon's Bank o MASSACHUSETTS BAY, 6 23 ; Cape Ann and Thatcher's Island Lighthouses, 6 ; Lon- doner Rock, 6 ; Gloucester Harbour, 7 ; Baker's Island Lighthouses, 8 ; Manchester and Beverly, 10 ; Salem, 11; Marblehead, 12; Nahant, 13, 14; Boston, 1419 ; Scituate, &c., 19 ; Plymouth, 20 ; Barnstable, 21 ; Well- fleet and Cape Cod Peninsula, 22 ; Highlands Light, 22 ; Cape Cod Harbour and Provincetown , 23 EASTERN COAST OF CAPE COD PENINSULA, 25 ; Chatham Harbour, 26 ; Monomoy Island, 26 ; Butler's Hole 27 NANTCCKET AND VINEYARD SOUNDS, 28 42 ; Nantucket Island, 28 ; Martha's Vineyard, 29 ; Sankaty Head Light, 29 ; Nantucket Shoals, 29 33 ; Nan- tacket Harbour, 33 ; Edgar Town, 3-5 ; Hyannis Harbour, 36 ; Directions for Xantucket Sound 38 Vineyard Sound, 39 42 ; Gay Head Light, 40 ; Nobsque Light, 42 ; Buzzard's Bay, 43 ; New Bedford, &c., 44 ; Mattapoiset , 45 Rhode Island, 46 ; Newport or Rhode Island Harbour, 47 ; Narraganset Bay, 48 ; Point Judith and Lighthouse, 48 ; Block Island Lights 49 iv CONTENTS. PAOK LONG ISLAND AND SOUND, 5075 ; Montauk Point and Light, 50 ; Block Island Sound, 50 ; Gardiner's Island and Bay, 51-2; Greenport, 53; Plum Island Lighthouse, 53 ; Gull Islands and Lighthouse, 54 ; the Race, 54 ; Fisher's Island and Sound, 56; Stonington, 58; New London, 59; Bartlett's Reef and Lightvessel, 61 ; Connecticut River and Saybrook, 61 ; Falkner's Island and Lighthouse, 62 ; New Haven, 63 ; Stratford Point Light, 64 ; Bridgeport, 64; Black Rock Harbour, 65; Penfield's Reef and Light, 65; Norwalk Islands, 65 ; Sheffield Island and Light, 66 ; Captain's Islands, 66 ; Hun- tington Bay, 67 ; Hempstead, 68 ; East Riyer and Hell Gate, 6972 ; Gene- ral Directions for Long Island Sound, 72 ; Long Island, South Coast, 74 ; Pondquogue and Fire Island Lights 74- 1^ NEW YORK HARBOUR, 7684; Highlands of Navesink and Sandy Hook Lights, 76; Lights and Channels, 77; Tides, 78; Directions, 79; General Direc- tions for approacning New York 80- S I SECTION II. SANDY HOOK TO CHARLESTON. Barnegat and Little Egg Harbour, 85 ; Absecum and Great Egg Harbour, 87 ; Five Fathom Bank 8S DELAWARE BAY AND RIVER, 88 94 ; Cape May and Cape Henlopen Lights, 89 ; Shoals on the North side, 89 ; Channels and Directions. 90 ; Cohansey, 92 ; Blake's Channel, 93 ; Wilmington, 93 ; Philadelphia 94 COASTS OF DELAWARE AND MARYLAND, 94 98 ; Fenwick's Island Lighthouse, 94 ; Winter Quarter Shoal and Lightvessel, 95 ; Assateague Island Lighthouse, 95 ; Cnincoteague Shoals, 95 ; Metompkin Harbour, 96 ; Smith's Island, 96 ; Directions, Delaware to the Chesapeake, 96 ; the Capes of Virginia , ''S CHESAPEAKE BAY AND RIVERS, 98 112; Cape Charles and Cape Henry Light- houses, 99 ; Lights in the entrance of the Chesapeake, 99, 100 ; Shoals in the entrance, 100 ; Lynhaven Roads and Hampton Roads, 101 ; Directions for en- tering, 102 ; Cape Henry, or Lynhaven Bay, to York River, 103 ; to Mob- jack or New Comfort Bay, 104 ; New Point Comfort to the Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers, 104 ; Potomac to the River Patuxent, 106 ; Patuxent to Annapolis and Baltimore, 108 112 ; to Susquehanna River 1 1 '1 CAPE HENRY TO CHARLESTON, 113126; Body Island and Light, 113; Cape Hat- teras and Light, 113, 114; Hatteras Shoals and Cove, 114, 115; Hatteras Inlet, 116 ; Albemarle and Pumplico Sounds, 116 ; Cape Lookout Lighthouse and Shoals, 117 ; Beaufort Harbour. 117 ; Wilmington, 118 ; New Inlet, 119 ; Cape Fear and Frying Pan Shoals, 119; Cape Fear River, 120; Winyah Bay and Georgetown, 121 ; Cape Roman Lighthouse and Shoals, 123 ; Bull's Bay and Rattlesnake Shoals, 124 ; Charleston 1 '_'> Remarks on the Winds, &c., on the Coast of South Carolina 1 26 Alphabetical Index 127 ..'O.NTKNT* T SKrTluX III. CHARLESTON TO HAVANA AND THE MISSISSIPPI. F..OE CHAKLBSTGN TO CAPE FLORIDA, 127 US; Pilots, 127; North Edisto Inlet, 127; St. Helena Sound, 128; Port Royal, 129; Tybee Inlet and Sa- vannah, 131 ; Observations on tha Winds, &c., of South Carolina, 134 ; Great Warsaw Sound, 134; Ossabaw Sound, 135; St. Catharine's Sound, 135; Doboy or Darieu Inlet, 136 ; St. Simon's, 137 : St. Andrew's, 138; St. Mary's, 139; Ft-rnandina, 139; Nassau, 140; St. John's, 140; St. Augustine, 141 ; Cape Canaveral, 143; Indian River Inlet, 143 ; Jupiter, Orenville, Hilsboro', and New River Inlets, 144; Cape Florida, 145; Fowey Rocks Lighthouse 1 4-5 The FLORIDA REEKS AND KAYS, 145 ; General Description, 145 148 ; Light- houses and Beacons on the Florida ReetV, 148 152 ; Harbours and An- chorages on the Florida Reefs, 1-52 160; Lejjare Anchorage, 152; Bahia Honda, 153; Kay West, 153; Marquesas Kays, 157; the Tor- tugas 138 DIRECTIONS FOB FLORIDA STRAIT 1 60 The GULF STI.EAM 161163 The BAHAMA BANKS, 164; Little Bahama Bank, 164; Maternillo Reefs, 164; Providence N.W. Channel, 165 ; Great Bahama Bank, 165 ; Gun Kay and Lighthouse, 166 ; Salt Kay or Kay Sal Bank 167 NORTH COAST OT CUBA, 168 ; Port Sagua La Grande, 168 ; Bahia de Cadiz Kay, 169 ; Cardenas Bay, 171 ; Matanzas, 171 ; The Harbour of Havana 173175 The COAST OF FLORIDA, &c., 176; The Tortugas Bank, 176; Chatham Bay, 1.76; Charlotte Harbour, 177: Tampa Bay, 177; Cedar Kays, 179; St. Mark's, 181; St. George's Sound, 182; Apalachicola, 183; Cape San Bias, 164; St. Joseph's Bay, 184; Sta. Rosa Bay, 185; Pensacola Bay, 186; Mobile, 188; Mississippi Sound, 191; Ship Island, 192; Biloxi Bay, 192 ; Chandeleur Islands, 193 ; River Mississippi, 193 ; Pasa al'Outre, 194; N.E. Pass, 195; S.E. or Balize Pass, 195; South Pasa and Jetties, 195 ; S.W. Pass, 196 ; Pilots, 196 ; Directions for Approach- ing the Mississippi 1 9 AFPKNDIX - Cautionary Weather Signals 198 C. S. Part I. Insertion, THE EASTERN COASTS OF THE UNITED STATES. *.* THROUGHOUT THIS WORK, THE GIVEN* LONGITUDE IS THE LONGITUDE FROM GREENWICH. THE BEARINGS ANI> COURSES ARE THOSE IJY COMPASS, UNLESS WHERE OTHERWISE EXPRESSED: BUT THOSE GIVEN THUS [ W.S. W.~\ SIGNIFY THE TRUE ; AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OF WlND, TlDE, AMD CURRENT, IS ALWAYS TO BE CONSIDERED AS THE TRUE. THE VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, 1875. Off Boston, 11 20' W. ; Plymouth, 11 15' W.; Cape Cod, IP 45' W. ; Vineyard Sound, 10 45' W. ; Nantucket South Shoal, 10 20' W. ; Rhode Island, 9 45' W. ; East entrance to Long Island Sound, 9 D W. ; New London, 8 50' W. ; Sandy Hook, entrance to New York Harbour, 7 W. ; Cape May, 5 10' W. ; Mouth of Delaware Bay, 4" 45' W. ; Entrance to Chesapeake Bay, 2 45' W. ; Cape Hatteras, 2 15' W. ; Cape Lookout, 1 20' W. ; Cape Fear, no variation ; Charleston Harbour, 1" 40' East. Savannah River, 2 30' E. ; Cape Canaveral, 3 10' E. ; Cape Florida, 3 20' E. ; Cay West, 4 10' E. ; New Orleans, T 20' E. SECTION I. BOSTON TO NEW YOEK. THE descriptions of the Coasts of the United States which succeed, are derived from, and are made to accord with, the fine series of charts drawn up by the officers of the United States Coast Survey. This great work was determined on in 1807, but was not properly commenced till ten years later, under Mr. F. R. Hassler, who continued it for many years. In 1842 a new plan was organized under Professor A. D. Bache, who, as is well known, continued it far towards completion. The elaborate charts of the coasts and harbours, which were published by the Hydrographic Bureau at Washington, contained generally, besides the topographical and hydrographic details, brief sailing directions applicable to its area. To these attached notes we are largely indebted for the subsequent directions. The chart and its plans have been faithfully reduced from the same authorities. U. S.Part I. B BANKS AND SHOALS OFF CAPE COD, ETC. The approach to the north-eastern portion of the United States is somewhat em- barrassed by dangerous banks, of which the shoal spots on the Great George Bank are the outermost, and which lie at 100 miles eastward of the peninsula of Cape Cod. These and others to the E.N.E. of Boston Bay require much caution, and therefore the following notices are necessary to be attended to. ST. GEOEGE'S BANE. This bank was very little known until it was regu- larly surveyed in 1821, by the United States schooner Science, and the sloop Orbit, under the orders of Captain Isaac Hall. The following description is a copy of his report : There are properly four shoals on St. George's Bank ; the whole of them are in- cluded between the lat. of 4T 34' and 4P 53' 30', and long. 67' 18' and 67 59'. Between them are from 15 to 35 fathoms of Avater. The largest, and on which, is the greatest danger, is the most southerly and west- erly. It is somewhat triangular, with a long and narrow spit, making out from the S.E. angle. The' S.E. point is in lat. 41 34', long. 67 40' The West point is in lat. 41 J 42', long. 67 59'. The N.E. point is in lat. 41 48', long. 67 47' The eastern side of this shoal, although somewhat irregular, runs nearly S.S.E. and N.N.W., having on it from 3 ft. to 9 fathoms at common low water. It is composed of a great number of sand pits, very narrow, so that the width of a narrow vessel will make several fathoms difference in the depth of water. The general range of the spits is from S.E. to N. W. As there are no rocks, they are consequently liable to change, in some measure, their position and ranges. On the eastern edge, even in calm weather, unless it be either high or low water, the tides run with greater rapidity, and form considerable breakers, when setting to the westward, and a large waterfall when setting to the eastward. This is accounted for by a knowledge of the fact, that directly on the edge of this shoal there are from 12 to 16 fathoms water, so that the edge forms a sort of dam, stopping the force of the flood-tide, and over which the ebb falls. When there was any considerable wind, we observed that the breakers were higher within the edge to the westward than on the edge ; and I have no doubt (says Captain Isaac Hall) that the water there was still shoaler, and that we should have seen the sand had it not been for the heavy sea. The breakers were such, unless it was entirely calm, that it was impossible to go among them with boats ; nor was it considered safe to attempt it with the vessels. For, besides the danger of striking on the hard sand-spits, the vessels would have been liable to have been tilled by the breakers. Even on the eastern edge, and at nearly slack water, the vessels were at times nearly covered with them ; and it was therefore not thought necessary to attempt it, as the object of the survey, to ascertain if there was danger on the shoals, and the situation and extent of this danger, could be accomplished without the risk. Had not the sea been very smooth, and at high water, we should not have been able to have got on where we found only 3 ft., reducing it to low water. The prevailing wind was to the eastward ; and I have no doubt that this place would have been bare, with any continuance of an off-shore wind.* I think there are no rocks about the shoals. We had one cast on the S.W. side, which indicated rocky * This tends to confirm the assertion made by the Cape Cod fishermen, that part of the shoal has been seen quite dry, with sea gulls sitting upon it. ST. GEORGE'S BANK. 3 bottom, in 15 fathoms ; but I believe it to have been some sharp stone that the lead struck upon. The centre of the northern shoal is in lat. 41 53' 30", and long. 67 43'. It extends E. and W., about 4 miles ; the shoalest part, having 6 fathoms, i? very narrow, and composed of hard sand ; but there are not more than 12 fathoms of water for 3 miles to the southward of the above latitude. On the North side, at 2 cables' lengths from the shoal, the sloop dropped into 33 fathoms. The breakers on this shoal are very heavy ; and when there should be a sufficient sea to endanger a vessel, they might be seen some miles, and heard at a considerable distance ; and as the shoalest part is not more than a cable's length idside, and no danger near it, a vessel might avoid it. To the eastward of the last-mentioned shoal, in lat. 41 51', long. 67^ 26', is another small shoal, with 8 fathoms water, having, however, considerable breakers. There are but 17 fathoms for 3 miles to the northward of it ; but very Hear to the eastward are 31 fathoms, and from 20 to 30 fathoms to the S. and W. The centre of the East shoal is in lat. 41 47', long. 67 19'. It is about 2 miles long from E. to W., and has 7 fathoms water. To the southward there are but 17 fathoms for 2 miles ; but in other directions there are from 20 to 30 fathoms. The above shoals, I am confident, are all which are on St. George's Bank ; then- positions and sizes may be relied on, as well as the soundings which I have laid down ; they were ascertained by a vast number of celestial observations, taken with good and well-adjusted instruments, on board the two vessels, and very carefully and faithfully calculated. The rates of the chronometers were found by a transit instru- ment previously to sailing from Boston, and after our return ; and all our observa- tions recalculated for the small variation that appeared. At anchor, in different places, and on different days, we determined the set and strength of the tides, and, as nearly as possible, their rise and fall. The rise of them is from 1 to 1 fathom. They set round the compass every tide, setting S.E. every full moon, and running from 1 to 4 knots per hour, at a mile distance from the breakers. The mean rate is, however, materially varied by the winds. They set strongest at W.S.W. and E.N.E., and which is, undoubtedly, the strength of the flood and ebb. From these causes and variety in the tides arises a principal danger in approaching the shoals. "When under way about the shoals, in a few hours time we found ourselves drifted far out of our reckonings ; and to ascertain our situations, when both vessels were under way, we took continued observations for the longitude by the chronometers, and, at the same time, double altitudes for the latitudes ; which latter were calculated by Brosinus's new and certain method. By allowing for the set of tides, as ascertained at anchor, the observations and reckonings agreed very nearly ; so that the latitudes and longitudes of every place may be considered as certain. Should, therefore, any vessel fall in with these shoals, a knowledge of the course and strength of the tides will prove of the greatest importance ; and they can, by the preceding facts, be calculated for any day and hour. In proceeding from Cape Cod to the shoals, at 5 leagues from the light, there are 86 fathoms, muddy bottom. The water gradually deepens to 133 fathoms, and then decreases towards the shoals. In lat. 41 51', long. 6S 3 11', there are 90 fathoms ; in lat. 41' 50', long. 68 3 , there are 49 fathoms, sand and gravel, on the western edge of the bank ; the water then shoals fast. To the northward of the shoal, in lat. 41 59', long. 67 52', on the South side of the North channel, there are 60 fathoms, soft mud ; in lat. 42 12', long. 67 51', there are 102 fathoms ; in lat. 42 10', long. 67 18', there is no ground at 175 fathoms. To the eastward we did not ascertain the extent of the bank. At 2 miles southward of the S.E. point of the shoals there are 4 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. from 20 to 26 fathoms, which soundings continue 20 miles to the southward and westward. The bottom, on the hank, so far as we examined it, is of such a narrow character, that it is difficult for a vessel to ascertain her situation by it ; we often found a great variety of soundings in a very short distance, such as sand of various colours, and differently mixed, coarse and fine gravel, pebbles of various colours, stone, sponge, and shells. Notwithstanding this variety, some general character of the soundings may be useful. The mariner therefore will find, to the westward of the shoals, and at some distance from them, the bottom to be coarse sand and gravel of all colours ; to the N.W. a mixture of white, black, and yellow sand ; to the North, black and white sand; to the N.E., chiefly gravel and pebbles; to the East, fine white and yellow sand ; and in lat. 41 57', long. 66 40' some white moss ; to the S.E., fine white and yellow sand ; and to the South, generally white sand. As the shoals are approached, in whatever direction, the soundings become coarse, and are frequently mixed with shells of different kinds. Near the shoal much of the bottom is pebbles ; and to the East of the largest and most dangerous shoal there are stones the size of hen's eggs, with moss and sponge on some of them. Near the S.E. point are from 15 to 20 fathoms; a prevailing character of the soundings is green shells, chiefly of the species called sea-eggs. If a vessel be far enough South to avoid danger, she will have no shells. The reports that rocks have been discovered on these shoals, are undoubtedly in- correct ; at the western part of the bank we saw, in strong tide rips, large quantities of kelp and sea-weeds, which, at a distance, had the appearance of rocks, but on Bounding we found good water and a regular and clear bottom. It will be seen by the bottom that the holding ground is not good ; but the vessels employed in the survey, by having a long scope of cable, frequently rode out a considerable gale of wind for 22 hours, on the East side of the main shoal, and also to the windward of it; the sea breaking very high at the time, we being in 10 fathoms water. It may be worthy of remark, that at one cast of the lead, on examining the arm- ing, I found one-third black sand, one-third white sand, and one-third green shells, in as distinct dimensions as they could be drawn. Since this survey, in 1821, the shoal has been surveyed by Captain Charles Wilkes and others, in the U.S. brig Porpoise, in the year 1837, and from this report the fol- lowing is taken. The shoalcst water found on any part of the bank was 2 fathoms, or 15 feet, re- duced to low water ; and this is only to be found in two small places, viz., in lat. 41 40' 13", long. 67 44' 10', and lat. 41 40' 33", long. 67 44' 30". The whole of the shoal is composed of hard sand spits ; fine sand on the shoalest places, and coarser as the water deepens, until it becomes large pebbles without sand. The rise and fall of tide is 7 feet, extremely regular, the first part of the flood setting N.N.W., the latter part N. by E. ; and ebb S.S.E. and S. by AV. The flood runs 4J hours, the ebb 5 hours ; the greatest velocity, 2 6-10ths of a mile ; and half an hour to two hours in changing, going round with the sun North by way of East. The wind has but little effect on the velocity. High water, full and change, at 10 h 30 m . Clark's and Little George's Banks are proved by later examinations not to be accu- rately defined, and are but parts of the shoal ground of George's Bank. CASHE'S LEDGE. This is a dangerous reef, about half a mile in extent each way. Its soundings a'rc very irregular, having from 10 to 4 fathoms in the length of a boat. There are 17 fathoms within a cable's length of it, deepening a short distance , THE FIPPENIES STKLLAVAGEN'S BANK. to 90 fathoms, on the western side. On approaching the shoal you may find 60 to 35 fathoms, brown sand, with black stones and broken shells ; then 30 fathoms, where it becomes rocky. The currents on the ledge are exceedingly rapid and de- vious. On the shoalest part there are said to be only 12 ft. at low water. By observations made, on four successive days, by the master of H.M. sloop Beaver, the latitude is 43 1' 0*. The longitude has been deduced from that of Cape Anne as from 69 6' to 69 12'. Such is the statement, exactly as it has appeared in our North Atlantic Memoir, since the year 1815, respecting this dangerous rock. Yet by a later examination by the United States' Coast Survey, by Passed Midshipman Ammen, it was recommended to be called A in men's Hock. As we see not the slightest reason for such change, not- Avithstanding the difficulty and perseverance shown in its exploration, the original name certainly must remain.. The latitude of the rock, deduced from the two days' observations, June 5th and 6th, 1849, is 42= 56' ; the longitude 68 51J' W. The least water on this rock is 26 feet ; a less depth has been reported by the fishermen, but they sound with their fishing lines, perhaps not accurately marked, and with a lead insufficient to press down or pass through the thick kelp that covers the rock. The extent, having less than 10 fathoms, is about half a mile in a N.AY. by AY. and S.E. by E. direction, and very narrow. It is surrounded by deep water at a short distance, particularly on the j3.E. side, where the depth increases suddenly to 60 fathoms. South of the flat rock there is a gully, 90 fathoms water, which runs in upon the bank in a south-westerly direction. Upon the South side of the gully, 3 miles South of the flat rock, there is a shoal of 7 fathoms, whence the soundings run suddenly to 15 and 30 fathoms, on all sides except the East, where it deepens suddenly to 80 fathoms. N. by AY., 9 miles from the flat rock, there is a shoal of 14 fathoms ; between them there are from 10 to 35 fathoms, rocky bottom ; on the rocky bottom there is kelp of 45 ft. in length, but on the flat rock there is none. THE FIPPENIES is a bank of some 10 miles in extent within the 50-fathoms line, at 8 or 10 miles S.AY. from the same depth, on the western edge of Cashe's Ledge. The Fippenies are some shoaler soundings than in the gully between them and Cashe's Ledge ; they consist of a bottom of 36, 38, and 40 fathoms, to a depth of 55 fathoms, and are situated 18 miles to the AY. by S. of the Ammen's Rock of the Cashe's Ledge. The extent of the shoal ground is about 8 miles North and South, and 3 miles across East and AVest. Thirty-six fathoms is the depth about the middle, which is in lat. 42" 49', long. 69 13'. In the gully between the Fippenies and Cashe's Ledge are from 60 to 90 fathoms. Stellwagen's Shoal Ground. Commander H. S. Stellwagen, U.S.N., by his soundings has shown the existence of this bank of over 2,000 square miles, extending from George's Shoal to the westward, 25 miles; to the S.AY., 50-miles; to the south- ward, 30 miles. Its eastern limit being not yet defined, having on it as little as 9 fathoms water, in some places rocky bottom, on its western edge. STELLWAGEN'S BANK. This is an extensive bank of 13 to 18 fathoms on the western side of the foregoing shoal, and fronting Massachusetts Bay, situate almost immediately in face of the harbour of Boston. It commences at about 6| miles N.X.AY. from the lighthouse on Race Point, where is situate a small shoal spot of 9J fathoms, thence it extends in a curved form, the curve being to the eastward, 18 miles in a northerly direction to its North end (13 fathoms), which is situate 16 miles S. by E. E. from Thatcher's Island, Cape Ann. The soundings close to its edge are 6 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 30 to 20 fathoms, deepening rapidly eastward and westward, the 100 fathoms line being at little more than 10 miles from its eastern side. Between its northern end and Cape Ann the depth is 40 to 55 fathoms. It forms an extremely valuable guide to vessels making Boston in thick weather, as a single cast of the lead upon it, the soundings eastward of it being so deep, is sufficient to determine a vessel's position with some degree of certainty. It has been buoyed, a red buoy having been placed on the 9J fathoms patch at its South end, a black and white one in the middle> and a Hack one at its North end. MASSACHUSETTS BAY. The space comprehended between Cape Ann and Cape Cod is called Massachusetts Bay, and it lies outside of Boston Harbour, which deeply indents the eastern side of the State of Massachusetts. The opening of the bay is about 40 miles in width, and has the Stellwagen Bank across a considerable portion of this distance. CAPE ANN is the eastern point of an island of that rame, and off it are several islets and rocks, of which Straitsmouth Island is the northernmost of the more con- spicuous ones, and it has a local light Jixcd, as a guide to Rockport, and the channel inside the Salvages which lie farther out. THATCHER'S ISLAND LIGHTHOUSES. The island contains about thirty acres of land, surrounded by an ironbound shore, and is about a mile to the East of Cape Ann Island. Upon Thatcher's Island are two lighthouses, 1I2| ft. from the base to centre of lanterns, and 165| ft. above the sea ; each lighthouse is built of gray stone, while the lanterns and railing are painted black. They both exhibit fixed lights, visible 20 miles off, all round the horizon. The northern tower is in lat. 42 38' 19", and long. 70 34' 10", the southern one bearing S. by W. W., distant 298 yards. A fog whistle is sounded, giving in every minute a blast of 8 seconds, and a blast of 4 seconds with an interval of 4 seconds between the blasts. From the North lighthouse the Londoner Rock bears S.E. by E., half a mile. Thatcher's Island affords no harbour, nor is there any safe anchorage very near it ; there is, indeed, a passage between it and the main, through which small vessels may pass, even at low tide ; but the water is shoal, and the bottom is covered by large stones. So soon as the lights are discovered by the mariner, he may be certain of his situation ; for, being two separate lights, they cannot be mistaken for the single light of Boston, or of Cape Cod ; or for the Plymouth lights, which are double, but within a very short distance from each other. The latter can be brought to range in one only in a S. by W. J W and N. by E. f E. direction ; while those of Plum Island (Newbury Port), when in a line, bear about W. by S. and E. by N. The Plymouth lights cannot appear so arranged from the North until you are on the shore, and from the South only when nearly in with the land. The lights of Cape Ann are therefore of great utility to all vessels in their passage in or out ; as they at once serve to point out the situations of the Salvages and Londoner, and for a point of departure to vessels bound coastwise or to sea. The Londoner Rock bears from the body of the island S.E. by E. half a mile. After getting the West light to bear N. W., you are to the westward of the ledge ; then haul to the N.W. to bring the lights to bear N.E. by E., and steer S.W. by W. for Eastern Point, which is about 7 miles distant from Thatcher's Island. Then your course is W. by S., distance 7 miles to abreast the lights on Baker's Island. Beacon. On the Londoner Ledge is a wrought iron shaft, 40 ft. high, surmounted by an octagonal lattice, or open work of cast iron, 7 ft. high, and 5 ft. in diameter, painted black. The following are the bearings from the beacon : Dry Salvages, N. I E. ; Straitsmouth Island Lighthouse, N.N.W. ; Northern Lighthouse, Thatcher's GLOUCESTER HARBOUR AND LIGHTS. 7 Island, N.W. i N. ; Southern ditto, N.W. by W. f- W. ; Eastern Point Lighthouse, S.W. by W. $ W. When you come from the eastward, and make Cape Ann lights in the night, bring them to bear S.W., and run direct for them, which course will carry you within the Londoner ; and when you pass these rocks, bring the two lights in one bearing, N. by E. \ E., and then steer S.S.W. W. ; keeping this course one mile will carry you clear of Milk Island, which is very low, and cannot be seen in a dark night. When you judge yourself to the westward of this island, you haul to the westward until you bring the lights to bear E.N.E., when you must steer W. S.W. about 5 miles, which course will bring you to the eastern point of Cape Ann Harbour. If you want to go inside the Salvages, keep close aboard Halbert Point, which has a tree on the eastern point of it, and steer S.S.E. for Straitsmouth Island, but be careful to avoid Avery's Rock, by keeping the lights on the dry point of Straits- mouth Island, till you get up close aboard ; then haul round the point, and S.S.E. will carry you to the lights. To avoid the Londoner, you must keep the lights close aboard the body of the island on which they stand. The Londoner lies half a mile off, breaks at all times of tide, is quite dry at low water, and bears E.S.E. from the middle of Thatcher's Island. A long shoal runs off N.E. half a mile distant from the Londoner. Between the Londoner and Thatcher's Island there are 3 fathoms at low water. From the Salvages to Halbert Point and Sandy Bay, there lies a large spot of flat ground, which at low water will take up a large vessel. Outside the Salvages is very bold. Halbert Point bears from the Salvages W.N.W. 2^ miles distant, and tie Salvages bear from the lights N.N.E. 3 miles distant. Gloucester Harbour is 6 miles south-westward from the lighthouses of Cape Ann. The entrance is 1 J mile broad, between the Eastern Point and ledge, on one side, and the high land called Norman's Woe, on the other. Lights. On the East Point of Gloucester Harbour there is a white lighthouse 33 feet high, which shows o.Jlxed light at 60 feet above the sea, visible 13 miles. A bell is sounded in foggy weather. On Ten Pound Island (an islet within the harbour) there is also a small lighthouse showing a fixed light, visible 12 miles off. A ledge extends out from East Point some distance, upon which (with the excep- tion of the southern prong) is a depth of 7 to 18 ft. at low water. The southern prong, or East Point Ledge, runs out from the lighthouse nearly a quarter of a mile in a S.W. | S. direction, and has near its extremity a very dangerous rock, named Webbers Rock, which is awash, or nearly so, at low water. The depth close to this part of the ledge is 3| fathoms, which rapidly increases seaward to 7 and 8 fathoms. The northern prong, or Dog Bar, extends from the lighthouse about N.W. by W. rather more than one-third of a mile, and has upon it 5 to 18 ft., gradually increasing towards its extremity, and has a black buoy No. 2 on its South edge ; outside this prong, and in the same line of direction from the lighthouse, is the Round Rock, situate in the middle of the harbour. The Round Rock has a depth of 13 ft., and lies in line with and midway between East and Mussel Points, and from it East Church appears just open to port of the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island. It is marked by a black buoy No. 1. Norman's Woe is a high rocky islet on the West side of the harbour. It is situate W. by N. from the lighthouse on East Point, and from it a ledge of 7 to 16 ft. ex- tends o'ut south-eastward one-eighth of a mile. Ten Pound Island Ledge is a small rock of 12 ft. water, lying in the middle of the harbour, at about one-third of a mile S.W. J W. from the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island, with a black buoy No. 4. Close to it is a depth of of fathoms. 8 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Ten Pound Island is surrounded for a short distance by a ledge ; and a rocky ledge also extends towards it from the eastern shore, leaving between only a very narrow channel of 10 ft. water. Fidd Rocks are on the western side of the harbour at a quarter of a mile from the shore, and half a mile westward from Ten Pound Island. They are above the surface at low tide, and are marked by a black buoy No. 3. Bauson's Ledge is a rock of 13 ft. water, lying about 200 yards southward from Fort Point, the West point of the inner harbour. It has a black buoy No. 5. There is no safe passage between it and the point. Pinnacle Rock. This rock is just within the entrance of the inner harbour, at about 80 yards south-westward of the Spindle Rock off the large wharf. It rises to a point, over which are only 9 ft. at an ordinary tide, and there is deep water around it at not more than 10 ft. from its centre. Directions. Approaching Gloucester from Cape Ann, beware of the Londoner, a rock 200 yards in extent, half a mile S.E. by E. from Thatcher's Island South light. There is a channel to the westward a quarter of a mile in width, with 5 and 6 fa- thoms, but strangers should pass to the eastward, not approaching the lights nearer than 1 mile till they bear N.W. With the lights on Thatcher's Island in range, bearing nearly N. by E. E., distant 1 mile, steer S.W. by W. J W. 5 miles, till East Point light bears almost North, and then haul round the point to the north- ward and westward, keeping half a mile from it to avoid Webber's Rock and the Dog Bar Ledge. To anchor in the South-east Harbour, the anchorage south-eastward of Ten Pound Island, where is a depth of 5 to 3 fathoms on sand, mud, and broken shells, bring the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island to bear N.N.E. J E., and steer thus until within half a mile off, or between it and Black Bess Point, when the course should be altered to E.N.E. J E. If it be desirable to run from this anchorage to the inner harbour, it should be remembered that the passage between Ten Pound Island and the eastern shore is too much obstructed by rocks to be available ; but that a vessel of light draught may run between that island and Ten Pound Island Ledge, there being a depth, according to the chart, of not less than 3J fathoms at low tide. If intending to enter the inner harbour, bring Ten Pound Island light to bear N.E. and steer N.E. J N., passing between Norman's Woe Rock and the Round Rock Shoal, and also between Field Rock and Ten Pound Island Ledge. When the light bears E.S.E., distant 300 yards, steer N.E. by E. | E. into the harbour. The northern part of Massachusetts Bay, to the westward of Gloucester Harbour, is indented by many inlets, which form the harbours of Manchester, Beverley, Salem, Marblehead, &c. The approaches to these harbours are between numerous rocks, islets, and shoals, whose relative position can only be understood by referring to the chart. Most of the dangers are marked by buoys or spindles, but as implicit reliance cannot be placed on these, either an intimate acquaintance with the channels, or the aid of a pilot, is indispensable to safety. The following is a brief enumeration of the dangers and marks : Half-way Rock is the outermost from the coast, and one of the most conspicuous. It lies about half-way between the lighthouses of Thatcher's Island and Boston (hence its name), and nearly 2 miles from the nearest land. It is 180 ft. in dia- meter, 40 ft. high, and has a depth of 12 fathoms or even more water immediately off it. On it there is a pyramidal beacon, bearing a spindle 15 ft. high, on which is a copper ball. The rock bears from the lighthouses on Baker's Island S. E., 2 miles. BAKER'S ISLAND Lighthouses. The island is about half a mile in extent, BAKER'S ISLAND CAT ISLAND. 9 and has a shallow flat of 8 to 10 ft., extending from its north-western side about one-third of a mile, close to which is a depth of 3 and 4 fathoms. On the island are two lighthouses, 29 and 52 ft. high, and only 40 ft. apart, bearing from each other N.W. and S.E., which exhibit fixed lights at 64 and 87 ft. above the sea, visible about 14 miles ; the southernmost of these is the highest. Near the East and South sides of the island are soundings of 5 and 3 fathoms, the latter depth being in the narrow passage separating the island from the Baker's Island Breakers, a channel which must only be attempted by those perfectly acquainted with the navigation. The island is represented as affording no convenient landing place, and its northern and eastern sides are high and rocky. Baker's Island Breakers consist of an extensive flat which runs off from the South side of Baker's Island, a distance of seven-eighths of a mile in a S.E. by S. direction. On it there are from 2 to 6 ft. water, and several of the rocks are dry, so that it is extremely dangerous, and must be cautiously avoided by all vessels approaching from the southward .and eastward. Two of the rocks bear the name of the North and South Gooseberry, and another the Pope's Head. The edges of this flat are steep, there being a depth of 6 and 8 fathoms immediately off them. Some reefs, called Outer and South-east Breakers, lie one-third to three-quarters of a mile from the outer edge of Baker's Island Breakers, in the direction of S.E. by S. i S. from the lighthouses. They are marked by black spar buoys, and have deep water around them. To clear them keep southward of the line of bearing Half-way Rock, W.S.W. J W. ; or do not go south-westward of the lighthouses bearing W.N.W. J AV. SearFs Hock, with 9 ft. water over it at low tide, lies above half a mile S.E. from the lighthouses. It is marked by a buoy. 3Iisery Island is about a mile from Baker's Island, and is joined by a bar to Little Misery, which makes the North side of the channel opposite Baker's Island. Misery Ledge has 8 ft. least water, and bears N.W. by \V. ~ W. 1 mile from the light- houses. The South part of Little Misery Island is three-quarters of a mile N.W. | N. from the lights. Hardy's Hocks, distinguished by a beacon, lie W. f N. from Baker's Island lights, distant five-eighths of a mile. The rocks appear at half-tide. On the East end of Bowditeh's Ledge is a beacon, rebuilt in 1872 as a granite pyramid, surmounted by a mast and cage, painted black. It is altogether 47 ft. high from low-water mark, and bears from Baker's Island lighthouse W.N.W. 1^ mile distant. Cat Island is about S.W. by W., 1J mile from Baker's Island, and a mile from Marblehead Neck, ranging nearly between the two. On its N.W. end is a high beach, directly opposite the point of Marblehead, called Peach's Point. 'The shore is irregular and rocky. On the southern side of the island are three high rocks, two of which are connected with the island by bars of sand, uncovered at low water. The other stands boldly up between these two, but more southerly. On Cat Island Rock is a spar 40 ft. high, to the top of which is attached a cask, a useful mark from sea. On the North end of Cat Island there is a large white building used as an hotel, the cupola of which bears S.W. by W. 2 miles from Baker's Island lights. Archfrs Rock. At about a quarter of a mile westward from the North end of Cat Island there is a small rock of 15 ft. water, named Ai-cher's. It has a depth of 4 -and 5 fathoms close to it, and is marked by a buoy, the position of which is W. J S. from the hotel on the island. At 1^ cable's length from the East side of the North end of Cat Island there is a U. S.Part I. c 10 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. dangerous patch of 20 ft. water, named Martin's Rock, which is marked by a buoy ; and nearly midway between the island and the North Gooseberry Rock, there is a patch of sunken rocks dry at low water, which is also marked by a buoy. These latter rocks, named the Brimblcs, bear from the lighthouses on Baker's Island S.W. by W. J W., distant If miles, and S.S.E. J E. 3 cables' lengths from Eagle Island. Satan or Black Rock is a black rock nearly level with the water, situate half a mile eastward of Cat Island, in the direction of Halfway Rock. It has a depth of 8 and 10 fathoms close to it, and is marked by a buoy. Gooseberry Ledge is a small patch If mile S.S.W. \ W. from Baker's Island lights. It has 15 ft. water upon it, and is marked by a buoy. Marblehead Rock is high out of the water, and will be at once recognised by the beacon upon it. It is three-eighths of a mile S.E. by E. from the lighthouse on Marblehead Neck, and may be closely rounded on its eastern side. Eagle Island. This is a small island, situated a little more than half a mile north- eastward of Cat Island. It has a flat of 3, 6, and 12 ft. extending from it half a mile to the northward, upon which there are several dangerous rocks ; its edges are also steep-to, so that it requires care to avoid. The north-western edge of this flat may be avoided by keeping Fort Sewall open northward of Gray's Rock ; on this edge of the flat there is a spar buoy. House Island is nearly two-thirds of a mile eastward from Misery Islands, and on the East side of the entrance to Manchester Harbour. It is connected to the shore by a shallow flat. MANCHESTER. This harbour is the north-westernmost of those within the range of islands and shoals. It has a depth of 3 to 6 fathoms, hard sand and rocky bottom. The Whale's Back, diy at two-thirds ebb, lies in front of the entrance, about midway between House and Great Misery Island. It is marked by two buoys, and within it is Saulis Rock, also marked by a buoy, and which is dry, except with high springs. There are other buoys and marks within the harbour, which affords good shelter from most winds, especially from the northward. To enter Manchester Harbour you must bring the southern light on Baker's Island to bear S. E., and run North 1 mile, where you may anchor on good bottom. N.B. Eastern Point bears from Baker's Island lights E. by N. J N. 7^ miles dis- tant. Halfway Rock bears from the lights S. 2' E. 3 miles distant. Hardy's Rocks bear from the lights W. J N. distant three-quarters of a mile, and are marked by a spar buoy. In thick weather a gun will be fired from the lighthouse, in answer to any signal which may then be made. BEVERLY is 8 miles westward of Manchester Harbour. To enter the harbour of Beverly, follow the directions for Salem Harbour, hereafter given, till you bring the Haste to bear E.S.E., then run "W.N.W. about 2 miles, and you reach Beverly Bar, which is a spot of sand running out from the southern or Salem side of the entrance, and has a black spar buoy upon the head of it, above a quarter of a mile from the shore. The bar has very shoal water on the eastern or outer side, near it, but good anchorage within. There is good water at the head of the bar. Having passed the bar, there is a sandy point from the Beverly or northern side of the entrance ; and beyond this point are the Lobster Rocks marked by a square granite beacon, which bear from the head of the bar West a little South, and not half a mile distant, and they are above water at half-tide. To avoid this point, after having well cleared the bar, you will steer towards Ram-horn Rock, which has also a beacon, and is to be seen at half-tide, bearing S.W. by S. from the head of the bar, one-eighth SALEM. 11 of a mile distant. There are several fathoms of water within a vessel's length of Ram-horn Rock. Giving this a good berth, you then clear the sandy point, and steer for the Lobster Rock beacon, bearing from Ram-horn beacon N.W. by W^ distant about one- quarter of a mile. Giving this a good berth, you are then oppo- site to the wharves, and may anchor in deep water, and in a very safe and excellent harbour. SALEM is the oldest and largest seaport but one in old Massachusetts. Its Indian name was Namnkeag. It is nearly surrounded by water, lying between two inlets of the sea, called the North and South Rivers. Its situation is low, but pleasant and healthy. It was the birth-place of Dr. Nathanial Bowditch, the author of the Practical Navigator. The Eastern Railroad passes through Salem, and has a branch thence to Marblehead. Lights. To the North of Salem Harbour a fixed bright light is shown on Hos- pital Point. Seen in range with the main light on Baker's Island, it leads up to the Main ship Channel entrance. As an additional guide between Baker and Misery Islands, the light is shown stronger in that direction. About 6 cables to the southward of the preceding ajixed bright light is shown at Fort Pickering, on the North side of entrance to Salem Harbour. The light is shown from a red iron tower ; it is elevated 25 ft. above the sea, and to be kept on the starboard side in entering. A red light is shown on Derby Wharf, 1 mile S.W. by W. W. from Fort Pickering light, and these two lights in line clear the Haste Shoal. There is good anchorage S.W. by S. half a mile from Fort Pickering light, with Derby Wharf light bearing W. by S. If bound into this harbour, or those adjacent to it. and you fall in with Cape Ann, supposing Cape Ann lights to bear N.N.W. about 2 miles distant, your course will be W.S.W. about 3 leagues, then W. by S. J S. 7 or 8 miles, which will bring you up to the lights on Baker's Island. But, should you fall in to the southward, when proceeding for the lights, you should, so soon as you have made them, bring and keep the northern or lower light open to the eastward of the other, and thus run for them. This will carry you to the eastward, and clear of the South Breaker of Baker's Island, which is very dangerous. Hospital Point light, in line with the Baker's Island lights, clears the outside ledges as above described. Should the wind be westerly, when beating up, you should not stand to the south- ward or westward farther than to shut one light in with the other, otherwise you will be in danger of the South Breaker above mentioned ; neither stand to the north- ward farther than to bring the lights W. by S. S., or you will be in danger of Gale's Ledge, a ledge which bears from the lights E.N.E. 1 mile distant. In this course you must guard against the Whale's Back, which dries at one-quarter ebb. It is marked at each end by a red spar buoy, that to the East is No. 6, and to the West No. 8, which bears from the lights N. by E. four-fifths of a mile. Tlic Common or Ship Channel into Salem is between Baker's Island and Misery Isles. It is about a mile wide ; and you may, so soon as" you are in mid-channel, between Baker's and Miseiy Islands, steer W.N.W. till you have passed Bowditch's Ledge, or until Cat Island comes open to the westward of Eagle Island ; then haul up for the Haste, above mentioned. You may safely anchor in 5 fathoms ; but, to proceed farther, pass the Haste at the distance of about half a mile on the port, and steer S.W. by W., which will carry you to the harbour. Observe, however, that a rocky ledge stretches from the N.E. end of Winter Island, and that a rock called Abbot's Rock, marked by a stone beacon, lies abreast of it, to avoid which keep a quarter of a mile from shore. This rock had 7 ft. over it at low water. 12 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Be cautious, when keeping off shore, in order to avoid Abbot's Rock, that you do not go so far as to get on the Aqua-vita, sunken rocks, lying E.S.E. nearly half a mile from Fort Pickering, and marked by a beacon. Should you, when coming from the south eastward, find yourself near the beacon on Halfway Rock, you may bring it S.E., and steer N.W. J W. for the Haste, passing near the Satan or Black Rock. The latter is above water, steep-to, and bears S.W. by S. 1| mile from Baker's Island. It should be left on the port hand, and the black spar buoy on the Brimbles, and the red buoy marking Mid-channel Rock, 1 cable W.S.W. from Eagle Istand, on the starboard. By continuing this course, you leave the Haste on the port, and enter the Ship Channel, whence proceed as above directed. Common tides here rise about 12 ft. The other channels into Salem Harbour, although useful to those well acquainted, and generally marked by buoys, &c., should never be attempted without a pilot. MAR.BLEHEAD is the southernmost of the group of harbours on this side of Massachusetts Bay, and to which Baker's Island lights form the chief leading mark. Light. On the north-western part of the harbour, which trends in about a mile to S.W., is Fort Sewall, and on the N.E. point is a white lighthouse, which shows a bright fixed light, elevated 43 ft., seen 12 miles off. The dangers within the harbour are marked by buoys on the more prominent points, so that when once the entrance is made out there is little risk in entering. Vessels bound to Marblehead, falling to the southward, and running for the lights on Baker's Island, after making them must keep the North and lower one open to the eastward of the southern light, and run for them, which will carry them to the eastward, and clear of the South Breakers off Baker's Island, which bear from the lights from S.E. J S. to S.S.E. E., distant 2J miles, and has the buoy on the S.E. part, as before described. Having made the lights with a westerly wind, and beating, when within 2J miles of them, you may not stand to the southward and westward so far as to shut the northern light within the southern one, on account of the South Breakers ; nor to the northward farther than to bring the lights to bear W.S.W. i W., on account of Gale's Ledge, which bears from the lights N.E. by E. distant 1J mile. Drawing near the lights, take care to avoid the ledge called the Whale's Back, marked at each end by a red buoy, which bears from the lights N. by E., distant tour-fifths of a mile. In going into Marblehead, and being up with the lights, give the North point of Baker's Island a berth of one-quarter of a mile, or less. Having the lights in a line, you will be up with the point. When the South light is open with the North light, you have then passed the point (leaving Misery Island on your starboard hand, which bears from the lights N.W. N. four-fifths of a mile). Then steer S.W. by S., or S.S.W., until you bring the South light to bear N.E. by E. E., then steer S.W. by W. | W. 3 miles, for Marblelu-ad Harbour. You will leave Hardy's Rocks, Eagle Island, and Gray's Rocks, and their buoys, on the starboard hand ; Pope's Head, Brimbles, and North point of Cat Island on the port hand. The Brimbles bear from Eagle Island S.S.E. \ E., distant half a mile ; and Gray's Rock, from the North point of Cat Island, N.W. by W. seven-eighths of a mile. Falling in with the South point of Baker's Island, and it blowing hard from the eastward, if you cannot avoid it, you may pass the point by keeping it well on board, say at the distance of from 20 to 50 fathoms from the shore, where you will have from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. When up with the S.W. point, steer W.S.W., which will carry you between the North Gooseberry and Pope's Head, leaving the former on your port haud, and 1'upc's Head on your starboard hand, between which you will MARBLEHEAD. 13 have from 3| to 5 fathoms of water. So soon as you have passed Pope's Head, haul to the northward, until the South light bears N.E. by E. E. ; then steer S.W. by W. J W. for Marblehead Harbour. The South entrance of the harbour of Marblehead is bold, and may be approached with safety with the light on the point of the neck at the S.E. side of the harbour, bearing from N.N.W. to W. by N., until you are within half a mile of it ; then bring the light to bear W. by S. and run for it until within 2 cables' lengths ; then steer N.W. by W., until the lighthouse bears S.S.W. ; then steer S.W., and anchor with the light bearing from E. by S. to N.E. by E. from a quarter to half a mile distant, in 6 fathoms, good holding ground, and clear bottom, secure from all but easterly gales. Vessels coming from the eastward, and running for Halfway Rock, distinguished by its beacon, must not bring the rock to bear to the southward of W.S.W., to avoid the South Breaker, which bears from Halfway Rock N.E. E. distant 1 mile. Being up with Halfway Rock, and bound into Marblehead, bring the rock to bear E.S.E. | E., and steer W.N.W. \ W. for Fort Head, distant 3 miles, leaving Cat Island on the starboard hand, which bears from Halfway Rock W.N.W., distant If mile ; and Marblehead Rock * on the port hand, which bears from Halfway Rock W. N., distant 2 miles. Black Rock bears from Halfway Rock N.W. by W., distant 1J mile. Cat Island Rock and Point Neck bear East and West of each other, distant about 1 mile. Vessels, being up in Boston Bay, may, by bringing the Boston light to bear S.S.W. , run N.N.E. for Marblehead Rock ; they are distant from each other about 12 miles. Halfway Rock and Boston light bear from each other S.W. and N.E., distant 15 miles. From the light on the N.E. point of Marblehead Harbour to Nahant Head, the South extreme of the rocky peninsula, the distance is 25 miles, and within this space are numerous rocks and shoals. The first of these to the South of the light are Tom Moore's Rocks, which stretch off the Marblehead Peninsula at three-quarters of a mile from the lighthouse, and have a buoy at their outer edge with 4 fathoms close to. Tinkers Island is a small rocky islet lying off the South end of Marblehead Neck, to which it is joined by a sandy flat, nearly dry at low water. At about a quarter of a mile south-westward from its South end, and separated from it by soundings of 3| to 9 fathoms, is a rock named Roaring Bull, which is marked b*y a buoy. Pig Rocks, Ram Islands, and Sammy's Rock are all situated at various distances from the shore between Marblehead Neck and Phillip's Point, the North point of Nahant Bay. The Great Pigs, the outermost of these rocks, are as much as 1| mile from the land, and there being deep water in their immediate vicinity, great care is requisite when passing along in thick weather. Nahant Bay, on the North side of Nahant Peninsula, has a depth of 12 to 7 fathoms, the latter being at about 1J inile from the shore, and almost close to the edge of a shallow fiat of 12 to 7 ft., which thence extends westward to the beach. * Marblehead Rock bears S.W. about three-quarters of a mile from the western part of Cat Island. It is above water, and may be approached to a short distance without danger. On the rock is a monument, or beacon, painted white at the bottom and black at the top ; it is about 8 ft. in the base and 15 ft. in height. The course and distance from Halfway Rock to Marblehead Fort is W.X.W. \ W. 3 miles, leaving the beacon on Cat Island Rock on the starboard, and the monument on Marblehead Rock on the port side. The monu- ment bears from the beacon W.S.W. j W. seven-eighths of a mile. H BOSTON TO NEW YORK, The North point of the bay (Phillip's Point) has a rocky ledge jutting out from it some distance. There being no shelter in the bay, vessels should only anchor in it with winds from the land. Egg Rock Ligh.tb.OUSe. In front of Nahant Bay there is a small rock, named the Egg, upon which is a lighthouse, 25 ft. high, which shows a Jlxed red light at 87 ft. above the sea, visible 8 or 10 miles. NAHANT PENINSULA. The Nahant Peninsula, or Rock, as it is sometimes called, is about 2 miles in extent, and connected to the shore at its northern end by a low beach, dry at low water. The Nahant Rock is a remarkable spot ; it has an hotel upon its summit, which is a place of great resort for the metropolitan New Englanders ; its area is about 2 miles by three-quarters of a mile, and it is distant nearly 2 miles from the main land, to which it is connected at low water. The ground swell, with its majestic heave, is here going on for ever. The promontory itself is never wholly left by the ebb ; but from its western ex- tremity there extends a narrow ridge, scarcely broad enough for a horse-path, im- passable for the rocks and seaweed by which it is matted, and extending just at high-water mark from Nahant to the main land. Seaward from this ridge, which is only the connection with the continent, descends an expanse of sand, left bare six hours out of the twelve by the retreating sea, as smooth and hard as marble. For 3 miles it stretches away without shell or stone, a surface of white fine-grained sand, beaten so hard by the eternal operation of the surf that the hoof of a horse scarcely marks it, and the heaviest wheel leaves it as printless as a floor of granite. Lynn Harbour. Nahant Peninsula forms, with the coast on its western side, a large shallow bay, the upper part of which takes the name of Lynn Harbour. Lynn is a large and nourishing town situate at the head of the harbour, which is much resorted to by the smaller class of coasting vessels. Shoals, dry at low water, occupy the whole of the harbour, leaving between them narrow channels of generally only a very moderate depth. The depth on the bar is only 2 It. when the tide is out. There is good anchorage in front of Lynn Harbour in 5 or 6 fathoms, where vessels may ride in bad weather. The mark is the hotel on Nahant Head, E.N.E. BOSTON. From the South end of the Nahant Peninsula to Minot's Ledge lighthouse, on one of the Cohasset Rocks, the distance is about 1 1 miles, and in this interval are the various entrances to the extensive series of channels and bays which collectively form the harbour of Boston. This labyrinth of islets, shoals, and rocks cannot be properly understood by any verbal description. The chart, reduced from that issued by the United States Coast Survey Office in 1857, with subsequent emendations, will afford a far better guide than any lengthened directions. The assistance of ft pilot is always necessary, and this cannot be too strongly in- sisted on, for notwithstanding that the principal dangers are beaconed and buoyed, and the points of approach well lighted, yet it should never be attempted without cither an exact knowledge or with the aid of a competent pilot. BOSTON LIGHTHOUSE. The principal lighthouse is on Little Brewstcr Island, on the North side of the principal entrance in latitude 42 19' 39" N., and longitude BOSTON MINOT LEDGE LIGHTHOUSE. 15 70 53' 5" W. It is a white circular tower 80 ft. in total height, showing a brilliant revolving light every half minute, elevated 98 ft., visible at 16 miles off. An air trumpet is sounded in foggy weather, giving blasts of 7 seconds at intervals of 43 seconds. MINOT LEDGE LIGHTHOUSE is 6| miles S.E. E. from the Little Brewster Island lighthouse, and stands on the outermost of the Cohasset Rocks. It was originally an iron pile structure, which disappeared during a heavy storm, and was succeeded by the present dark grey granite tower, 100 ft. in total height, and show- ing a brilliant fixed light at 92 ft. above the sea, visible 15 miles off. A flog bell is sounded when necessary. The Narrows Light, on the West end of the Brewster Spit or Bar, abreast the Narrows, is a red fixed light, exhibited from a screw pile lighthouse, and may be seen 7 miles off. It bears westward \\ mile from the Boston lighthouse. Long Island Lighthouse, is a white iron tower 22 ft. high, on the N.E. end of Long Island, on the South side of President Road. The light is fixed, elevated 80 feet, visible 15 miles off. DANGERS. The Graves are a parcel of diy rocks which appear white, lying to the northward and eastward of Boston light. On the N.E. ledge is an iron bell-boat, in 10 fathoms water, Long Island light bearing W.S.W. J W., 4J miles distant, and Boston light S.W. J S., 2f miles distant. Thieves Ledge, of 4^ fathoms, lies E. J S. of Boston light, distant 3 miles. Harding Ledge is dry at low water, and on the drying part a shaft is raised, having on its summit, which is 31 1 ft. above low water, a cast-iron ring, set horizon- tally, with twelve wooden pendants attached to the rim. This beacon is entirely black, and from it Boston lighthouse bears N.W. 2 miles ; Martin's Ledge, North, 2^ miles ; and Minot's Ledge lighthouse, S.E. J E., 4 miles. A black bell-boat lies off the N.E. side of the ledge. Martin Ledge lies nearly midway between Thieves Ledge and the Graves, and has on it 13 ft. at low water. Outside the ledge, in 6 fathoms, there is a red nun buoy, No. 2, the Graves bell-boat bearing N. J E. 1J mile ; Harding bell-boat S. % W., nearly 2 miles, and Long Island light W. 3 S., 4^ miles distant. Between the Outer Brewster and Martin Ledge, on the last-mentioned range, lies Tewkesbury Rock, with 9 ft. on it at low water. N.W. nearly from Martin Ledge, between Green Island and the Graves, is a ledge of sunken rocks, called the Roaring Bull, S.W. of which is a shoal spot of 10 ft., and N.E. is a spot of 18 ft. water. Barrel Rock, which was situated N.W. by W. from the North part of Green Island, has been removed by blasting, and now has a depth over it of 22 ft. at mean low water. Vessels can therefore pass over its site in safety. Devil's Back. West of Green Island, half a mile distant, is a ledge of rocks, called the Devil's Back, on the northern part of which is a black buoy, No. 1, in 18 feet water, Long Island light bearing W.S.W., 2-| miles distant. Half-tide Rocks, E.N.E. one-third of a mile from Devil's Back buoy, lies Maffit's Ledge, on which are 12 ft. water ; and S.S.E. E. of the same buoy are the Half- tide Rocks, in Hypocrite Channel, near which is a red spar buoy, No. 2.' Egg Rocks or Shag Rocks lie East of the North point of Little Brewster Island. The ledge is about one-third of a mile long, and runs N.E. and S.W., nearly. N.E. of the ledge, about half a mile distant, is a shoal spot with 18 ft. water, and about midway between the eastern points of Middle and Little Brewster Islands is another spot of the same depth. W BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Nash Sock, with 2 ft. water upon it, lies on the northern side of the main ship channel, one-third of a mile S.W. of the western part of Little Brewster. Kelly's Rock, with 15 ft. water on it, lies to the westward of Nash Hock, ahout midway between it and George's Island, and is also in the main ship channel. Operations for the removal of this danger have been carried on. Tower Rock lies off the S.W. extremity of Brewster Bar, in mid-channel. It has on it 17 ft. water. Slack Rock is on Brewster Bar, in the north-eastern parfc of Black Rock Channel. Ram Head. A ledge of rocks, called Ram Head, makes off the northern part of Level's Island, on the northern part of which is a black can buoy, No. 5. Long Island bearing W.S.W. W., 1J mile distant. Nix's Mate lies between Long Island and Level's Island, about half a mile from Long Island light. On it there is a square granite beacon, with octagonal pyramid on top, painted black. A black nun buoy, No. 9, has been placed on the North end of Nix's Mate, in 15 feet at low water. Hospital Shoal. Between Rainsford and George's Island is Hospital Shoal, or Wilson Rock, on the northern part of which is placed a black nun buoy, No. 1, in 18*ft. at low water. Long Island light bearing N.N.W. nearly 1 mile. The Toddy Rocks lie E.S.E. \ E. from the buoy on the Hospital Shoals ; near them is placed a black nun buoy. Quarantine and Hangsman Rocks. South of Rainsford Island are the Quaran- tine Rocks, and South of the rocks lies Hangsman's Ledge, on which is a granite open-work beacon, with a small square cage on the top. The rocks are dry at low water. There is a rock with 12 ft. water on it, bearing S. 45 W. from Boston light, distant 700 yards. The new beacon on the spit open to the North, with the hotel on Long Island, leads clear to the South of it. Another rock, with 15 ft. on it, bears S. 75j W. from Boston light, 770 yards distant, and from the new beacon on the spit South and East, distant 240 yards. The hotel on Long Island shut in entirely with the North part of George's Island, leads clear to the South of it. Another rock, with 17 ft., bears S. 85f 3 W. from Boston light, 2,343 yards distant, and from the old beacon on the spit S. and S.W., 117 yards. Xix's Mate, on the northern edge, or at the farthest the centre, of Bunker Hill monument, leads clear to the South of it. If Bunker Hill monument is not visible, keep Deer Island beacon on the North end of Apple Island, while passing the range of the old beacon spot on the little head of the Great Brewster. Tewkesbury Rock bears E.N.E. from the Outer Brewster, distant a quarter of a mile, with 9 ft. on it. The outer ledge of 17 ft. bears E.N.E. from Boston light, 2 miles distant. There is a red nun buoy, No. 10, on Seventy-four Bar, in 15 ft. water, about 20 fathoms West of the old wreck, which has but 9 ft. on it at low tide. It lies with Nix's Mate beacon, W. J N. ; Nix's Mate buoy, N.W. by W. f W. ; and Deer Island Point beacon, N.W. Directions. Coming from the vicinity of Cape Cod, you should keep to the northward of the direct course, if the wind is N.E. ; and to the westward if it is S.W., making allowance for the tide. With a leading wind a direct course may be made good on the flood ; but the ebb sets toward Minot's Ledge light. If from the vicinity of Cape Ann, no particular precautions are necessary. Should you fall in with the Scituate land, in a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms, without BOSTONMAIN SHIP CHANNEL. 17 having seen the light on the Cohassets Rocks during the night, or thick weather, run North into 17 or 18 fathoms, and steer W.N.W. for Boston light. From the lighthouse on the Cohassets Rocks, Boston lighthouse bears N.W. | W., distant 7 miles. Davis's Ledge lies E. by S. S. from Cohassets lighthouse, and has a buoy placed to the N.E. of it to mark the danger. When near the land and, approaching Minot's Ledge, bring the point of Scituate to bear South, and steer North, which will clear Davis's Ledge, three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, and when you get the lighthouse on the Cohassets Rocks to bear West, steer N.W. by W. for Boston lighthouse, which will lead to the N.E. of the bell-boat on Harding's Ledge ; but in thick weather it is more prudent to steer N.W. until up with the bell-boat, bearing West, then W.N.W., allowing for wind and tide. From oif Nahant Head, and bound for the main ship channel, bring the light on the Egg Rock to bear N.N.W., and steer S.S.E., to pass the Graves, at half a mile to the eastward of the bell-boat riding on them, and when it bears N.W. by W. | W., steer S.S.W. until up with the bearing for entering the channel. Vessels may pass inside the Graves, keeping 1 cable's length from the S.W. point. Vessels working to windward in Boston Bay up the harbour, may, in the daytime, stretch safely anywhere between Minot's Ledge and Nahant Head until up with the Graves on one side and Harding's Ledge on the other. Do not come nearer the N.E. part of the Graves than half a mile, but the Harding's may be approached pretty near to the bell-boat. Inside of the line from the Graves to the Hardings you may stand to the southward to within half a mile of the shore, and to the northward to within three-quarters of a mile of the East end of the Outer Brewster, or the East end of the Shag or Egg Rocks. When up with the Egg Rocks, you must stand no farther to the northward than . to bring Boston and Long Island light in range, and in passing Point Allerton be careful not to go inside the buoy. A vessel, not having a pilot, even if a stranger, may beat up to the anchorage inside the lighthouse, in the daytime, by making short boards, and keeping 2 cables' lengths from Lighthouse Island, but should wait there for a commissioned pilot. If you are working up for Boston Harbour in the night, you will avoid the Cohassets and Harding's Ledge by not standing farther to the southward than to bring Boston light to bear W.N.W. When within 2 miles of the light, go no nearer than to bring it to bear West, and when near Egg Rocks you must not pass to the North of Boston and Long Island lights in range. Main Ship Channel. When abreast of the lighthouse, bearing North, and in mid-channel, a W. ^ N. course made good leads to the pile lighthouse on the spit ; but if the tide is ebb, or you are on the North side of the channel, steer West or West-southerly, so as to avoid getting on the False Spit. Leave the lighthouse on the starboard hand, and steer N.W. ^ W. past George's Island. In this course you will have Nix's Mate beacon and the middle of Bunker Hill monument in range until up with the eastern end of Gallop Island. From this point the course through the Narrows is N.W. by N., keeping in mid-channel and steering for the high land on Deer Island until up with Nix's Mate, which leave on the port hand. When you are passing Nix's Mate you should have Deer Island beacon on the N.E. end of Apple Island for a light ship, and off the South part of Apple Island for a vessel of heavy draught. By observing either of these marks, you will avoid the shoal ground about Nix's Mate. A W. 5 N. course leads from Nix's Mate through President Roads, until the new beacon on the high part of Long Island is just clear of the N.E. bank of Spectacle Island, when the course is N.W., keeping the marks astern in range until abreast of the beacon on the S.E. part of Bird Island. T. S.Part I. D 18 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. In steering this latter range, it will lead safely past the Lower Middle, Castle Island Rocks, Governor's Island Point, the Upper Middle, and in the best water over the shoal ground above the Upper Middle. When up with the beacon on Bird Island, steer N.W. by W. W. towards the State House, until abreast of the buoy on the Slate Ledge, and then N.W. by N. for the anchorage. Hypocrite Channel is between the Outer Brewster on the South, and the Sunken Rocks to the northward, thence between the Green and Little Calf Islands to Ram Head, where it joins the Broad Sound Channel. This channel is intricate, and only fit for those acquainted with it, and therefore not to be attempted without a pilot. Black Rock Channel leads from the main ship channel at the pile lighthouse into the Hypocrite Channel, and is never used by large vessels except in the winter time, to avoid the ice in the Narrows. This channel, too, is narrow and dangerous, and not fit for strangers to attempt. Broad Sound Channels. The South . Vessels intending to enter by the South Channel may stand in anywhere between Nahant Head and the Graves, and steering to the South 'of West, until they bring Nix's Mate beacon to bear S.W. by W. J W., may run for it. The mark for this channel is Nix's Mate, in the middle of the northern and highest of the Blue Hills. This channel is short and straight ; its range is perfect, and is safe at half or three-quarters flood for the largest ships : especially for vessels out- ward bound. Vessels going out this way will leave Ram Head, Aldridge's Ledge, and Devil's Back buoys on the starboard hand, and the Little Faun and Great Faun beacon on the part hand ; and in running out of Broad Sound will keep Egg Rock open with Nahant Head. The North Channel passes nearer Deer Island, and is separated from the South Channel by a middle ground. The buoys are passed in the same way as in the latter. The range for this channel is the North head of Long Island (on which the lighthouse stands), in line with the second bluff on the West side. This channel tanuot be recommended, and should not be attempted in bad weather, even by small vessels. There is another channel out, used by vessels in light winds on the ebb, to prevent being set into the Sound at Nix's Mate, or the East end of Lovel's Island. This is to the southward of President Roads, Spectacle Island, and Long Island, and through Nantasket Roads to the main ship channel South of Boston light, and is termed the Sack or Western Way. NANTASKET ROADS. To take Nantasket Roads from outside, when Boston light bears North, thi-ee-eighths of a mile distant, steer W. S. to the buoys on the Centurion; leave these on the starboard hand close to; and steer W.S.W. until Long Island light opens clear to the S.W. part of George's Island, then haul up for the light, and run in for the anchorage. Anchorages. President Roads, South of a line from Nix's Mate to Castle Island, in sticky bottom. Nantasket Road. Nix's Mate just on with Gallop Island, and Boston light shut well on to George's Island, give the best ship anchorage. Heavy vessels anchor farther South. There is a convenient refuge for coasters in N.E. winds under Spectacle Island. Vessels caught in bad weather near Nahant without a pilot may anchor to the West of Nahant, in from 5 to 6 fathoms, by opening Lynn Harbour, and bringing the hotel to bear E.N.E. BOSTON SCITU ATE. 19 Vessels waiting for a pilot may anchor in the main ship channel any where between the lighthouse and Nantasket Beach. Dangers. The principal dangers in and about Boston Harbour are the rocks and ledges near the shore, under the surface, and surrounded by deep water. Persons ignorant of the ground are cautioned not to approach them without a pilot, The following are particularly to be avoided : Davis's Ledge, near the Minot's ; Martin's Ledge and Tewkesbury Rock, near the Outer Brewster, and Maffit's Ledge, North of the Devil's Back, which are dangerous to vessels beating into Boston Bay and Broad Sound. To vessels outward bound from Boston lighthouse, who would wish to fall in with Cape Cod, the course is S.E. by E. \ E., distant 11 leagues, thence 3 leagues to the lighthouse ; and when it bears S.W., 2 leagues distant, you may then steer S.S.E., which will carry you out of the South Channel. Vessels in Boston Bay, which bear away for Cape Cod Harbour, must endeavour to fall in with Race Point lighthouse, which shows a flashing light, and run for it till within half a mile ; when it bears E.N.E. haul up E.S.E., or as near as the wind will permit, and anchor in from 10 to 4 fathoms, in Herring Cove, where there is good shelter with the wind from N.N.E. to S.E. by E. Should the wind shift to the N.W., Provincetown Harbour is under the lee to which we refer; should you first make Cape Cod light, bring it to bear E. by N., and run for it till you have sound- ings in 14 or 15 fathoms ; then steer N.E. until the light bears E. by S. ; then run- in X.W. for the harbour. Between Cape Ann and Cape Cod there are from 50 to 17 fathoms : the latter 4 miles N. by E. from the Race light, with 55 fathoms inside. S.E. by E. \ E. from Boston light to the Race light there is a ridge of rocks and sand of 7 to 23 fathoms water, with a small gully of 37 fathoms, 20 miles from Boston light. To the North of this ridge the bottom is generally muddy, and the depth from 40 to 50 fathoms. It is high water, full and change, off Race Point, at 10 h 45 m . Vessels leaving Cape Cod, bound to Boston, should calculate the tide, as the flood sets strongly to the S.W. off Cape Cod, from the Race to Chatham ; flood sets to the South, ebb to the North ; southern tide 9 hours, northern tide 3 hours. BOSTON, the capital of New England, and the second place, in point of com- merce, in the United States, consists of three parts Old, South, and East Boston ; and its harbour is one of the best in the United States. The Eastern Railroad com- mences at East Boston. The Lowell Railway runs on the bridge over Charles River, and the Worcester and Providence Railroads run from the South side of the city. By means of these communications, this city has become the focus of much commerce. SCITUATE. At 4| miles S. by W. from Minot Ledge lighthouse is the entrance to Scituate Harbour. Cedar Point makes the North chop of the harbour ; the first cliff, so called, making the South chop. There are four of these cliffs extending towards the North, the southernmost of which is the highest. The harbour is small, having only about 12 ft. of water on the bar at high water, middling tides. From the northerly part of Cedar Point a ledge, called Long Ledge, extends N.N.W. nearly 1 mile. Ledges extend from all the four cliffs, but none between ; and half a mile from shore will clear all, except for large vessels. There is a passage within the Cohasset Rocks, used by coasters, which is found by giving the light a berth of half a mile, and running N.W. by N. to the southerly entering rock. At about 2 miles W. by N. from Cedar Point is a meeting-house, and near the N.W. side of the harbour is a farmhouse, with two large barns at a little to the 20 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. North. To enter the harbour, the mouth of which is about one-third of a mile broad, bring the meeting-house or farm-house to bear about W. by N. from the middle of the entrance, and run in, on that direction, for the farm-house, until you have passed the bar, which is a hard bed of stones and gravel that does not shift ; and, after passing the bar, and coming on sandy bottom, haul up and anchor near the beach, on the South side of the harbour. The Coast to the southward of Scituate trends south-eastward for 8 miles to Brant Point, and offers nothing remarkable. Off Brant Point is HoiclancTs Hock, a ledge of only 7 ft. water, lying at 1 J mile due West from the shore, with Gurnet lights bearing S. J E., distant 4J miles. Within this ledge, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, is Egg Rock. These dangers are marked by a buoy ; close outside is a depth of 4 to 9 fathoms. To the southward of Egg Rock the coast is formed by a narrow neck of land, called Salthouse Beach, enclosing the northern part of Plymouth Harbour, and ter- minating in Gurnet Point. On this coast, at 3J miles from Brant Point, and 2 miles northward of Gurnet Point, is a very dangerous reef, called the High Pine Ledge, which extends out for a mile, and has 7 ft. water on the reef, and dries in one spot. It is marked by a black spar buoy, lying in 15 ft. water, with the Gurnet Rocks bearing S. W., Captain's Hill W. J S., and Brant Point N. by W. Gurnet Point Lighthouses' The point is a round hummock at the termination of Salthouse Beach. Two white octagonal wooden lighthouses stand on it, 30 ft. apart, N.W. and S.E., and each 33 ft. high, showing bright fixed lights, elevated 93 feet each, and visible 15 miles off, and are so situated that they cannot be brought in a line to the northward, unless to those on shore. But to the southward these lights may be brought in one, and lead clear of Brown's Island or Bank. On Salthouse Beach stands (or stood) one of the huts erected for the reception of shipwrecked mariners. There is a breach in the inner beach, which exposes the shipping, even at the wharves at Plymouth during an easterly storm. PLYMOUTH. This harbour may be known by a round hummock, lying on its northern side, called the Gurnet, upon which the two lights are established ; and on its southern side by a double high land, called Monumet. The Monumet side is full of shoals and quicksands, which dry in several places ; but on the Gurnet or North side there is a fair channel, in which you may ride safely with any wind but an easterly one. But, should an easterly wind happen to blow so hard as to force you from your anchor, you must run farther up the harbour, and anchor within the sandy island called Brown's Island. The harbour of Plymouth is capacious, but shallow, and is formed by a long and narrow neck of land, called Salthouse Beach, extending southerly from Marshjicld, and terminating at the Gurnet Head ; and by a smaller beach within, ruinning in an opposite direction, and connected with the main land near Eel River. Plymouth is interesting as being the oldest European settlement in New England. It was the landing place of some English emigrants on December 22nd, 1620. In coming from the northward, bound to Plymouth, you must not bring the lights to bear South of S. by W. to clear High Pine Ledge, which lies about 2 miles North of the Gurnet. Off this ledge there is a spar buoy (red, No. 6). When in the channel, abreast of these lights, run up W. f S. for Duxbury Pier light, and leave it on the starboard hand. In running in from South to East, bring ' Gurnet's ' lights in range until Duxbury Pier light bears W. % S., when you will be midway between the lights and nun buoy on Brown's Island Shoal ; then steer W. by S. until Duxbury Pier bears W. by N., when you will be midway between red buoy No. 6 add black buoy No. 5 ; then steer W. J N. Pass between red buoy No. 8 and black BARNSTAPLE. 21 buoy No. 7, leaving Duxbury Pier light one -half cable's length on starboard hand ; then steer North, and anchor under the lee of Muscle Bank in from 5 to 8 fathoms of water, or continue on same course between red buoy No. 10 and black buoy No. 9, and anchor in " Cowyard " in from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. This is a good harbour for vessels overtaken in easterly storms. Depth of water in channel at low tide, 18 feet. Duxbury Pier Lighthouse, on the North side of the channel, within Saquish Head, is a red iron lighthouse, constructed in 7 ft. water, from which a fixed white light is shown at an elevation of 40 ft. above the sea, and visible 11 miles off. If bound into Cow Yard, steer North half a mile, passing to port, or on the West side of Duxbury Pier, and giving it a berth of 100 yards. Anchor in 4J fathoms, with Duxbury Pier light S.E. | E. When beating into Plymouth Harbour, do not stand into less than 3 fathoms on the northerly tack. On the southerly tack the best guide is the rips marking the edge of Brown's Island or Shoal, which can be distinctly seen. White Horse Lone Rock, The South point of Plymouth Bay is named Elishd's Point , it should not be closely approached, because a rock, known as the White Horse Lone Rock, lies off it at a short distance, in the immediate vicinity of which is a depth of 6| fathoms. Manomet Point. At 1\ miles south-eastward from Elisha's Point, and 5| miles southward from Gurnet Point is Manomet Point, off which are the dangers termed the Mary Ann Rocks. These are from half to three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and have a depth of 7| fathoms close to outside them, and 5J fathoms in the narrow channel which separates them from the sunken ledge jutting out from the point. A 6-feet sunken rock, named Stellwayeiis Rock, has been discovered at about a mile from the shore, from which Manomet Point bears nearly North 2 miles. It has a depth of 5 and 7 fathoms in its immediate vicinity. From Manomet Point southward, the shore of Cape Cod Bay is lined by a flat of 10 to 16 ft., which extends out in some places more than a mile. In other respects there is deep water over the whole surface of the bay, with the exception of the extensive Billingsgate Shoal, mentioned subsequently. It is high water on the bar, on the full and change, at 10 h 19. Should you make the Gurnet lights in the night, during hard northerly or north- west winds, and cannot get into the harbour of Plymouth, you may run for that of Cape Cod, the point at the entrance of which bears from the Gurnet lights E. S. about 10 miles. It is bold-to, and, unless it be very dark, you may see the sandy hills before you can get on shore. BARNSTAPLE. The entrance of the port of Banstaple bears S. by W., 19 miles from Race Point light, and S.E. J S., 7 leagues from the Plymouth or Gurnet lights. A fixed harbour light is established on Sandy Neck. On advancing from the northward, keep into 5 fathoms of water until the lighthouse bears S.W. by S. J S., which will bring you up to the red buoy No. 2 on the bar ; haul close round this buoy, leaving it on your starboard side ; then steer S.W. by W. ^ W. for black buoy No. 1, clearing it on the port hand. Be careful to make the above courses good, as the flood sets strongly over Yarmouth Flats, and the ebb strong to the northward over the bar. Continue to run for the light until within a cable's length of the beach, and follow the shore round the point. There is safe anchorage inside, abreast of the light, against all winds, the light bearing from S.W. to N.E., in from 5 to 2J fathoms. There are 7 ft. of water on the bar at low water, and the tide flows 10 ft. 22 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Vessels drawing 8 ft. may, at high water, bring the light to bear S.W. W., and run directly for it. High water, full and change, at ll h . WELLFLEET. Billingsgate Island lighthouse, at the entrance of Wellfleet Bay, is 5 leagues S.E. by S. from the light on Race Point, and exhibits a fixed light at 5'Z feet above the sea, and is situated so far up Barnstaple Bay that it cannot be mis- taken for any other. The island is about 13 ft. above high water, and from the West end extends a long shoal of hard sand, 10 or 11 miles from W. by S. to W. by N. from the lighthouse, and in a N.W. to W.N.W. direction, 5 or 6 miles. The surface of the bay is almost wholly occupied by shallow flats, even, or nearly so, with the surface at low water, and there are some rocks in the middle of the bay, bearing the names of Middle, Lumjjfish, Wood's Beach, Sand, and Channel Islands, the situations of which can be best seen by a reference to the chart. The most dan- gerous of these, or those most in the way of vessels, are marked by buoys. Between these rocks, and in a direction nearly parallel to the islets, is a channel averaging in depth 2J to 5 fathoms, access to which is over a bar of 7 ft. Vessels anchor in this channel and obtain shelter from almost all winds. When running for Wellfleet Bay it is necessary to give a wide berth to the western side of Billingsgate Island, because a shoal of 8 to 15 ft. extends from it nearly 5i miles W. by S. J S. from the lighthouse. This is marked by the buoy at its extreme point, but thence it gradually increases in breadth eastward until its base includes the whole of the islands forming the West side of the bay ; consequently it forms a very prominent danger to vessels approaching from the northward. Although so dangerous to vessels bound to the bay, most excellent shelter from northerly gales can be obtained under it. Its ledges are steep-to, especially on its southern side, where the lead will drop from 10 to 14 ft. into 4 fathoms. When bound to Wellfleet from Cape Cod, get the lighthouse on Race Point to- bear East 1 mile, and steer S. J E., maintaining at the same time a good lookout for the buoy on the extremity of Billingsgate Shoal. When up with it, pass it on the West side, and bring the lighthouse on Billingsgate Island to bear E.N.E., and then steer E. by N. f N., until the lighthouse bears N.E. by E. | E., at which time you will be 2 miles from it, and in a depth of 4 or 4j fathoms, sandy bottom, and should anchor. When beating up the channel, care must be taken not to approach too near Bil- lingsgate Shoal, as the soundings decrease rapidly. Good anchorage may be obtained farther in the bay in 3 or 4 fathoms water on soft bottom, at four-fifths of a mile S. E. from the lighthouse, but the approach to it should not be attempted by vessels of burthen without a pilot. There is a small fixed light on Mayo's Beach at the head of Wellfleet Bay, visible about 11 miles off. CAPE COD PENINSULA. Cape Cod is the northern part of the peninsula of Barnstaple, anciently called Namset, and now that of Cape Cod or Codd. On the hook of the Cape is Provincetoicn, distinguished by its useful harbour of refuge, which has a depth of water for any ships. This harbour, generally known as Cape Cod Harbour, has a light on Long Point, and another on Wood End to the S.E. On the West extremity of Cape Cod, called Race Point, is a small lighthouse ; and there is a larger, called that of the Clay Ponds, or the Highlands, 8| miles more to the S.E. ; and still farther to the South are the three lights on Nauset Beach. The inhabitants depend chiefly on the cod-fishery for subsistence. The Highlands Light, or the Clay Ponds, in lat. 42 2' 21", and long. 70 3' 38', is erected on land elevated 140 ft. ; which, with the elevation of the lantern, makes the whole height 195 ft. above high-water mark. The light is bright and fu:cd. CAPE COD HARBOUR AND PROVINCETOWN. 23 There is generally a haze over the Cape, and the light is seldom seen at more than 6 leagues off. A first-class Daboll trumpet is sounded here in thick weather, giving blasts of 8 seconds' duration, at intervals of 30 seconds. If outward bound from Boston lighthouse, and you would wish to fall in with Cape Cod, the course is E.S.E. 13 leagues ; thence 3 leagues to the lighthouse. When up with the lighthouse, and it hears S.W. 2 leagues, you may thence steer to the S.E. If inward bound, and you want to fall in with the hack of Cape Cod, bring the light to bear S.W. 2 leagues distant, then steer W.N.W. for Boston lighthouse. Race Point Lighthouse is a rubble-stone whitewashed tower, 31 ft. high, built on the point, at 155 ft. distant from high- water mark. The light, elevated 47 ft. above the sea level, is a fixed bright light, varied by a bright flash every 1| minute. It is visible 12 miles off between S.E. by S. J S. by the westward to N.E. J E. A steam fog whistle is sounded at this station in thick weather, two short blasts in quick succession, followed by an interval of 44 seconds. Race Point is very hold-to, and has a number of fishermen's huts on it. To the southward of Race Point is what is called Herring Cove, where there is good an- choring half a mile from the shore (the wind being from East to N.N.E.), in 4, or even in 3, fathoms. Good anchorage may be found in a N.E. gale, by running for Race Point Light, giving it one-third of a mile distance as you pass it, as soon as it bears E.N.E., when you will be safe with the wind from N.N.E. to S.E. by E. ; haul up E.S.E., and an- chor in from 10 to 4 fathoms. This lighthouse was erected to guide vessels into Provincetown or Cape Cod Harbour, and to enable those which are caught in Boston Bay with an easterly gale to find safe anchorage. CAPE COD HARBOUR and PROVINCETOWN Vessels bound for Pro- vincetown or Cape Cod Harbour, may run for the light on Race Point when it bears S.S.W., or anywhere to the eastward of it. Sailing Directions for entering Provincetown Harbour : When three-quarters of a mile off shore, with Race Point light bearing East, run S.S.E., until Cape Cod light opens South of Long Point light, or Wood End light, described below, bears S.E. by E. | E. ; then run S.E. S. until Cape Cod light opens South of Wood End light, or Wood End light bears E. ^ N. ; then run S.E. by E. J E., until Townhouse at Provincetown, opens East of Wood End light, or Wood End light bears N. by E. ; then run E. by N. until Townhouse opens East of Long Point light, or Long Point light bears N.N.W. J W. ; then run North until Wood End light is in range with Long Point light, or Long Point light bears S.W. by W. W. ; then W. by N. ; and anchor in from 8 to 4 fathoms of water, with Wood End light bearing S.W. by S. i S., and Long Point light S.E. E. In running from Race Point to the Wood End, you must not make too free with the land, as there are some shoals which extend above a quarter of a mile off shore. The northern one lies 1J mile S.S.W. from Race Point light, called Shank-painter Bar, and has 9 ft. on it ; and another called the Wood End Bar, with 8 ft. at low springs. The shoals consist of hard sand ; while outside the bold edge of this shoal water there is sand, mud, and clay, and within a very short distance, 30 fathoms and upwards. Cape Cod light, open South of the Wood End light, carries clear of these. In beating into Provincetown Harbour, stand to the eastward into 4 or 3^ fathoms, but no farther westward than into 8 fathoms, in order to avoid the spit of Long Point, which is steep to 9 or 10 fathoms. Lights. At Wood End a red light, revolving every 15 seconds, is shown from a brown brick tower 41 ft. high. The light is elevated 45 ft. above the sea, and visible '2i BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 11 miles off. From Wood End lighthouse Race Point bears N.W. by N. ; Town- house, Provincetown, N. by E. | E. ; Long Point light, N.E. by E. | E. ; Cape Cod light, East; Billingsgate Island light, S. by E. E. ; Sandy Neck light, S.S.W. ; Plymouth lights, W. N. ; Minot's Ledge light, N.W. | W. Upon Long Point, at the entrance of Cape Cod Harbour, there is a. fixed harbour light. It is close to the point, and is 28 ft. above the sea. In running from Race Point to Wood End, after you pass the Blackland or Hum- mocks, avoiding the shoals previously mentioned, you will come up with a low sandy beach which forms the harbour, extending between 2 and 3 miles to Wood End, marked by its lighthouse ; it is very bold, and you will have 25 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of the shore. Long Point, the extremity of Cape Cod Peninsula, is bold-to, and has 10 fathoms water within 100 yards of the lighthouse ; bat to the eastward of it, there is a spit, called the Long Point Bar, which has only 3 fathoms on it at a quarter of a mile East by compass from the light. From this the village of Provincctown bears about a mile, and extends along the shore nearly 2 miles, and has several wharves and jetties. In the deeper water of Cape Cod Harbour, the depth is 9 and 10 fathoms ; the bottom is of soft mud ; but in the shoaler water, which gradually extends towards Provincetown, it is of hard sand. Vessels caught in Boston Bay, in an easterly gale, should endeavour to make Race Point light. If you can make the light, run within half a mile of it ; so soon as it bears E.N.E. haul up E.S.E., or as near that as the wind will permit, and anchor in from 10 to 4 fathoms of water, where you will find a lee with the wind from N.N.E. to E.S.E. Should it shift to N.W., you have Cape Cod Harbour under your lee. Large ships should not bring the light to bear more westerly than N. by W., and steer S. by E. to pass Wood End Bar in 10 fathoms. So soon as the light on the high land of Cape Cod bears E. by N., run N.E. until you get into 8 fathoms, where you may anchor with the high light bearing East. Large ships should bring the light on Race Point to bear N. by W., and steer S. by E. until the Long Point light bears N.E. by N., in order to pass Wood End Bar in 10 fathoms ; continue this course until Long Point light bears N.E. by N., then steer N.E. until you are in 8 fathoms of water, when you should anchor with the high light on the high lands of Tape Cod, bearing from E. N. to E. 5 S. At full and change it is high water off Race Point at ll h 45 m ; rise from 12 to 15 feet. On leaving Cape Cod, if bound for Boston, you must calculate the tide, as the flood sets strongly to the S.W. The lighthouse of Cape Ann and the high light of Cape Cod bear from each other S.S.E. J E. and N.N.W. W., distant 13 leagues. The curvature of the shore, on the West side of Provincetown, and South of Race Point, is called Herring Cove, which is 3 miles in length. On Race Point, besides the lighthouse, stand about a dozen fishing-huts. The distance from these huts to Provincetown, which lies on Cape Cod Harbour, is 3 miles. The passage is over a sandy beach. It would be difficut, if not impossible, for a stranger to find his way thither in the dark. Not far from Race Point commences a ridge, which extends to the head of Stout's Creek. With the face to the East, on the left hand of the ridge, is the sandy shore ; on the right is a narrow sandy valley ; beyond which is naked sand, reaching to the hills and woods of Provincetown. On this ridge, halfway between Race Point and the head of Stout's Creek, is (or was) a hut. It stands a mile from Peaked Hill, a land-mark well known to seamen, and is about 2J miles to Race Point. At the head of Stout's Creek is (or was) a second hut. Stout's Creek is a small branch of East Harbour, in Truro. XAUSET BEACH. 25 From the head of Stout's Creek to the termination of the salt marsh, which lies on both sides, and at the head of the East Harbour River, the distance is about three miles and a half. A narrow beach separated this river from the ocean. It is not so regular a ridge as that before described, as there are on it one or two hills, which the neighbouring inhabitants call islands. The shore, which extends from this valley to Race Point, is unquestionably the part of the coast most exposed to shipwrecks. A N.E. storm, the most violent and fatal to seamen, as it is frequently accompanied with snow, blows directly on the land ; a strong current sets along the shore ; add to which, that ships, during the operation of such a storm, endeavour to work to the northward, that they may get into the bay. Should they be unable to weather Race Point, the wind drives them on the shore, and a shipwreck is inevitable. From the valley above mentioned the land rises, and less than a mile from it the high land commences ; on the first elevated spot (the Clay Ponds) stands the light- house, previously mentioned. The shore here turns to the South ; and the high land extends to the table land of Eastham. This high land approaches the ocean with steep and lofty banks, which it is extremely difficult to climb, especially in a storm. In violent tempests, during very high tides, the sea -breaks against the foot of them, rendering it then unsafe to walk on the strand, which lies between them and the ocean. Should the seaman succeed in his attempt to ascend them, he must forbear to penetrate into the country, as houses are generally so remote that they would escape his research during the night ; he must pass on to the valleys, by which the banks are intersected. These valleys, which the inhabitants call Hollows, run at right angles with the shore ; and in the middle, or lowest part of them, a road leads from the dwelling-houses to the sea. From Fresh Brook Hollow, the tenth from the Higlands lighthouse, to the com- mencement of Nauset Beach, the bank next the ocean, is about 60 ft. high. There are houses scattered over the plain open country ; but none of them are nearer than a mile to the shore. In a storm of wind and rain, they might be discerned by day- light ; but in a snow-storm, which rages here with excessive fury, it would be almost impossible to discover them, either by night or by day. Nauset Beach, begins in lat. 41 51', and extends 10 miles to South. It is divided into two parts, by a breach which the ocean has made through it. This breach is the mouth of Nauset or Stage Harbour ; and, from the opening, the beach extends North 2^ miles, till it joins the main land. It is about a furlong wide, and forms Nauset Harbour, which is of little value, its entrance being obstructed by a bar. This northern part of the beach may be distinguished from the southern part by its being of a less regular form. Storms have made frequent irruptions through the ridge on which beach-grass grows. Lighthouses. On an elevated part of the beach, about 4J miles North of the mouth of Nauset Harbour, are three lighthouses, circular buildings 18 feet high, painted white, and 50 yards apart North and South. They each show a bright fixed light at 93 ft. above the sea level, and visible 10 miles off; abreast of these lights the tides divide and run in opposite directions. The southern part of Nauset Beach, most commonly called Chatham Beach, and sometimes Potanumaqunt Beach, begins at the mouth of Nauset Harbour, and ex- tends 8 or 9 miles South to the mouth of Chatham Harbour. A regular, well-formed ridge, which in the most elevated part of it is 40 ft. high, runs the whole lengh of it, and, with the exception of a few spots, is covered with beach-grass. This beach forms the barrier of Chatham Harbour, which, from Strong Island, North, receives U. S.Part I. E 26 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. the name of Pleasant Say. A mile South of the entrance of Nauset Harbour it joins the main land of Orleans, except in very high tides, when the sea flows from the north-eastern arm of Pleasant Bay into the harbour of Nauset, completely insu- lating the beach. The beach of Cape Malabar, or the sandy point of Chatham, stretches from Chatham, 10 miles into the sea, towards Nautucket, and is from a quarter to three- quarters of a mile in breadth. It is continually gaining South. On the East side of the beach is a curve in the shore, called Stewart's Bend, where vessels may anchor with safety in 3 or 4 fathoms of water, when the wind blows from North to S.\V. North of the Bend there are several bars and shoals. A little below the middle of the beach, on the West side, is Wreck Cove, which is navigable for boats only. The whole of the coast, from Cape Cod to Cape Malabar, the S. end of Monomoy Island, is sandy, and free from rocks. Along the shore, at the distance of half a mile, is a bar, which is called the outer bar, because there are smaller bars within it, per- petually varying. This outer bar is separated into many parts by guzzles, or small channels. It extends to Chatham ; and, as it proceeds southward, gi'adually ap- proaches the shore, and grows more shallow. Its general depth at high water is 2 fathoms, and 3 fathoms over the guzzles ; and its least distance from the shore is about a furlong. Off the mouth of Chatham Harbour there are bars which reach three-quarters of a mile ; and off the entrance of Nauset Harbour the bars extend half a mile. Large heavy ships strike on the outer bar, even at high water, and their fragments only reach the shore. But smaller vessels pass over it at full sea ; and when they touch at low water, they beat over it, as the tide rises, and soon come to the land. If a vessel is cast away at low water, it ought to be left with as much expedition as possible ; because the fury of the waves is then checked, in some mea- sure, by the bar ; and because the vessel is generally broken to pieces w ; .th the rising flood. But seamen, shipwrecked at full sea, ought to remain on board till near low water ; for the vessel does not then break to pieces ; and, by attempting to reach the land before the tide ebbs away, they are in great danger of being drowed. On this subject there is one opinion only among judicious mariners. It may be necessary, however, to remind them of a truth, of which they have full conviction, but which, amidst the agitation and terror of a storm, they too frequently forget. CHATHAM HARBOUR, on the south-eastern part of the peninsula of Cape Cod,, sheltered by the narrow spit of Nauset Beach, is a convenient station for the fishery. It has but 11 ft. of water at low tide, and the bar is frequently shifting. The vicinity has been remarkable for shipwrecks, as already shown. The access, however, was ranch improved by two lighthouses, 40 ft. high, on the point called James's Head, the lanterns of which are 70 ft. above the sea, and show Jixcd lights, which may be seen 5 or 6 leagues off, and are very useful to vessels bound to Nan- tucket, &c. But since their erection the beach has extended 2 or 3 miles, so that they are now only serviceable in running over the shoals. A pilot is therefore in- dispensable. MONOMOY ISLAND, a narrow sandy ridge about 4 miles in length, is appa- rently a prolongation of Nauset Beach, which was parallel to the low shore of the Cape Cod Peninsula, leaving the shallow opening into Chatham Harbour at 3 miles southward of the lighthouses. To the south-eastward af its southern part is an ex- tensive cluster of shoals, the northern abutment of the Nantucket Shoals. The Lighthouse on Cape Malabar, the S.E. end of Monomoy Island, is a red iron tower, 30 ft. high, which shows a bright fixed light, elevated 41 ft., and seen 12 miles off. A lifeboat is maintained near the lighthouse. BUTLER'S HOLE. 27 The S.W. point of Monomoy curves to the northward, and shelters an anchorage called the Powder Hole. The Pollock Rip is one of the shoals eastward of the South end of Monomoy Island. It consists of two parts, the outermost 4 miles from the island, and each has patches of not more than 9 or 10 ft. water. The Pollock Rip Lightvessel, moored in 6 fathoms, 3 miles S.E. by E. E. from Monomoy lighthouse, on the southern side of the shoal, 1 mile S.E. from its shoalest (7 ft.) spot, is coloured red, and exhibits a fixed light at 45 ft. from the water, visible 12 miles in clear weather; and in the daytime a red hoop-iron day mark is hoisted at the mast-head. During foggy weather a bell is rung, and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. A S. S.W. course up to, or a N.N.E. course for 2 miles from this lightvessel, will, if made good, take a vessel through the slue or swashway, over the shoal, in not less than 3 fathoms ; the black buoy, distant half a mile North from the lightvessel, must be passed close to on its eastern side. Another first-class nun buoy No. 2, is placed N.N.E. from this vessel, on the broken part of Pollock Rip, which should be kept close on the port hand in going to sea through northern slue. An E. by S. | S. course from this lightvessel, or by keeping this lightvessel in line with the Shovelfull lightvessel, until Chatham lights bear N. by W. W., leads clear to the East of the broken part of the Pollock Rip. The Sh.OVelfu.il Shoal extends for three-quarters of a mile southwai'd of Mono- moy Island, and is nearly awash in many parts. To the West of it is an irregularly formed shoal, nearly 4 miles in extent, North and South, called the Handkerchief, which has extensive patches of from 6 to 12 ft. of water. There is a channel be- tween its eastern edge and the Shovelfull Shoal, nearly half a mile wide, with from 4 to 7 fathoms on it. This shoal, like the Shovelfull, is marked by a lightvessel. BTJTLER'S HOLE is the channel to the southward of the shoals last named, and is bounded to the south-eastward by the Stone Horse or Broken Rips, being \\ mile in width, with from 7 to 1 fathoms throughout. The prominent points and edges of the banks on this channel are marked by black buoys to northward, and red buoys to southward : but too much dependance should not be placed upon these. Besides the Pollock Rip lightvessel, previously mentioned, it is well marked by the two following : The Shovelfull Lightvessel is moored in the southern part of the channel be- tween that shoal and the Handkerchief Bank, W. by N. ^ N. from the Pollock Rip lightvessel, and to the southward and westward of the Monomoy lighthouse. It is painted green, and shows a fixed light 40 ft. high, visible 11 miles off. A red hoop- iron work at the mast-head serves as a day-mark, and in foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. By preserving a W. by N. N. course from Pollock Rip lightvessel, you will not have less than 4 fathoms up to the Shovelfull ; and by passing a red buoy, and leaving the latter lightship close on your port hand, and the opposite black buoy on the South edge of that shoal on the starboard, you may steer N. f W. towards Powder Hole on the northern shore of the sound. The Handkerchief Shoal Lightvessel is schooner-rigged, with a black oval grating day-mark at each mast-head, and her hull is painted straw colour, with " Handkerchief" in large black letters on each side. It lies in 5 fathoms, 1| mile southward of the South part of the shore, with Monomoy lighthouse N.E. $ N., and Great Point lighthouse S. | W., and shows a fixed light 40 ft. above the level of the sea, visible 1 1 miles off. This and the Pollock Rip and Shovelfull lightvessels serve as excellent guides to 28 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. vessels entering Nantucket Sound through Butler's Hole, for, by steering West for nearly 3 miles from Pollock Rip lightvessel, or till Monomoy lighthouse bears North, and then shaping a S.W. by W. course towards the Handkerchief lightvessel, which may be passed on either side, they will go clear of the Pollock Rip, Shovelfull, and Handkerchief on the starboard, and of the Broken Rips or Stone Horse Shoal on the port hand, in not less than 17 or 18 ft. water. NANTUCKET and VINEYARD SOUNDS These sounds comprise all the navigation between the Malabar Point of Monomoy, on the East, and Suzzard'a Say on the West ; an extent of 40 miles. The southern boundaries are the islands of Nantucket, Tuckernuck, Chappaquiddick, and Martha's Vineyard, which are alto- gether connected by shoal grounds. The eastern entrance (3 leagues broad) is im- peded by numerous rips and other shoals, as just mentioned, as are likewise the central and western parts ; and the whole presents an aspect of drowned lands which, it is thought, were at some period anterior to history connected with the main. The intricate navigation of the several channel has been greatly facilitated by nu- merous lighthouses, buoys, and beacons. On the N.E., or Sandy Point of Nantucket, is a fixed light, at 70 ft. above the level of the sea. On the western side of the entrance to Nantucket Harbour are two harbour lights. At 7 miles W.N.VY. from the N.E. point of Nantucket is a floating light, on the N.E. end of Tuckernuck Shoal ; and on Cape Poge, opposite to the N.E. end of Martha's Vineyard, is a lighthouse, which bears from the floating light W. N. 11 miles, and exhibits a fixed light at 55 ft. above the level of the sea. Martha's Vineyard is now distinguished by three lighthouses, exclusive of that on Cape Poge, above mentioned ; the next, on a pier at the entrance of Edgartown Harbour, is 3 miles W.S.W. from Cape Poge, and another is on the West chop of Holme's Hole, near the North point of the Vineyard. Gay Head, the western extremity of Martha's Vineyard, is distinguished by a lighthouse, having a revolving light, at 150 ft. high above the sea; and this consti- tutes the great mark for the western entrance of the sound. Upon the West end of Cuttahunk, which is the westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, dividing the Vineyard Sound from Buzzard's Bay, there is a fixed light. Upon Nashon, the fourth island from the West, of the same range, is another. The latter stands on the West side of an indent, called Tarpaulin Cove ; and from it, at the dis- tance of 5 miles to the East, is another, standing on Nobsque Point, Falmouth, at the end of the strait called Wood's Hole. Between the West end of Nantucket and the East end of Martha's Vineyard lie the broken lands or isles called Tuckernuck, Muskeget, and Chappaquiddick, sur- rounded by shoals. To the westward of Muskeget is a swash of 2| fathoms, leading to Cape Poge, the N.E. extremity of Chappaquiddick ; and to the N.N.E. of Tucker- nuck is a spit of sand, extending 6 miles in that direction. Upon the extremity of the latter is stationed the floating light above mentioned, lying in 7 fathoms, with the Great Point light of Nantucket bearing E.S.E. 6 miles ; the light at the en- trance of Nantucket Harbour, S.S.E. 8 miles ; and the centre of Tuckernuck Island S.S.W. J W. 7 miles. This lightvessel is, therefore, exceedingly useful to vessels in the Sound, both from the eastward and westward. The lighthouse on Cape Poge bears from it nearly W. N. 4 leagues, and that of Gammon Point, or Hyannes Harbour, N. by W. J W. 4 leagues. The different lights on Martha's Vineyard, excepting that of Gay Head, wee fixed lights. The lantern of Cape Poge is elevated 55 ft. above the sea, as above men- tioned, and its light can be seen over Vineyard land. NANTUCKET. The Island of Nantucket is situated between lat. 41" 14' and MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 29 41" 24', and between long. 69 58' and 70 15'; its N.W. side forms a fine road for ships, -which from the eastward, and under favourable circumstances, may be readily attained. The soil of Nantucket is light and sandy, but in some parts rich and productive. The inhabitants derive the greater part of their subsistence from the ocean ; they hold the land in common, and the greater part are of the Society of Friends. The men are generally robust, enterprising seamen, formerly extensively engaged in the whale fishery, and are as skilful and adventurous as any in the world. The whale fishery commenced here in 1690 ; and this place is, perhaps, more cele- brated than any other, for the success and enterprise of its people in that species of nautical adventure, which was carried into every quarter of the globe. Indeed, Nantucket was the mother of that great branch of wealth in America. The LIGHTHOUSE on Great or Sandy Point, the N..E point of Nantucket Island, a narrow spit running to the N.W., is a whitewashed stone tower 60 ft. high, showing a bright fixed light, elevated 70 ft., visible 14 miles off. A shoal, the Point Rip, stretches to the eastward for 3 miles from the point, and has only 13 or 14 ft. on its outer end. There is good anchorage inside the Lighthouse Point. SANKATY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, on the S.E. part of Nantucket, is a tower, 65 ft. high, painted white, red, white, showing a bright light, with a brighter flash of 10 seconds' duration in every minute. It is elevated 150 ft., and may be seen 20 miles off. It is 7 miles S.S E. from Great Point lighthouse, and 23 miles S. by W. from the Pollock Rip lightvessel. Tuckernuck Island lies inside the western spit of Nantucket Island, and is about 2 miles in length. Muskeget Island lies on the flat, 2 miles beyond it, and forms the eastern side of the Muskeget Channel, full of shoals. MARTHA'S VINEYARD, the larger island to the westward of Nantucket, con- tains about the same number of inhabitants, who subsist by agriculture and fishing, Gay Head, the western part of this island, is a peninsula, separated from the other part by a large pond. Indications of ancient volcanoes exist here, and of those four or five craters are plainly to be seen. The principal harbours are that called Holme's Hole, on the North side, upon which is seated the town of Tisbury, and that of Edgar Town, or the Old Town, on the eastern side, West of Chappaquiddick Island. This island is about 15 miles in length from East to West. Its greatest extent, North and South, is about 8 miles. It is divided into three townships Edgar Toicn on the East, Chilmark on the West, and Tisbury in the centre. Edgar is the best seaport, and the shire town ; and Holme's Hole has water sufficient for large ships. The latter is much resorted to by vessels requiring a wind for proceeding eastward to Boston and other ports. Martha's Vineyard, like Nantucket, was a great nursery of seamen, and supplies with pilots the numerous vessels with which this part of the United States abounds. Here are to be found the most expert pilots for the two sounds, and the ports in their vicinity. In stormy weather they are at sea, on the look-out for vessels, which they board with singular dexterity, and hardly eve rfail to bring safe to their in- tended harbour. Gay Head, the western point, distinguished by a lighthouse, is also remarkable for abounding with a variety of ochres, with which the inhabitants paint their houses. Hence the coast appars of different colours, as will be noticed hereafter. Chappaquiddick Island, 5 miles westward of Muskeget, lies against the East end of Martha's Vineyard. Its N.E. point is Cape Poge, distinguished by a light- house, hereafter described. The NANTUCKET SHOALS. An area, bestrewed with some of the most dan- 30 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. gerous shoals in the world, lies to the south-eastward of Nantucket, and which, until late examinations and surveys by the officers of the U.S. coast survey, were very imperfectly known. But the charts now exhibit all that are formidable, and the following desciiptions have been taken from the same sources. But it must be remembered that many of these shoals are so far from land that no marks can be given, beyond that afforded by the lightship on their South extremity. Unless, in case of necessity, no vessel should become entangled in this labyrinth, for the currents and tides are here most devious, the weather thick at times, and the more prominent shoals shown by tremendous breakers, while others are only to be distinguished by ripplings, more or less strong, according to the tide or current, or by a discoloration of the water. NEW, or DAVIS'S SOUTH SHOAL, the southernmost of the Nantucket Shoals, lies about 20 miles south-eastward of Sankaty light, and is exceedingly dangerous, as close outside it is deep water. It has been surveyed by Commander Davis, who remarks upon it : The New South Shoal has on it only 8 ft. in some places, and bears from the centre of the Old South Shoal from S. 3 28' W. to S. 16 42' E., by compass, being distant 6 miles. It is 2J miles in length from East to West, and its greatest breadth from North to South is nine-tenths of a mile. Between it and the Old South Shoal there are soundings of from 4 to 18 fathoms, but North and East of it are ridges of only 20 to 24 ft. to the extent of about 3 mile* from the New Shoals. Deep water separates these ridges, and the soundings on them are very irregular. The tide rips showed that two, and perhaps three, lines of shoal water are near each other, in parallel directions. The latitude of the cen tre of the New Shoals is 40 57' 50" N., long. 69 51' 40" W., and it bears from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, S. E., 19J miles. The tides set regularly round the compass, the main body of the flood running eastward, and the ebb westward, varying North and South of East and West ; but the flood begins to turn southward, passing round to the West, and ebb northward, passing round to the East, about 1 hour before the principal set and strength are attained. Upon the shoals the tides run across their line of direction, and are much more rapid, which makes an approach on the side to which the tide is setting very dan- gerous. The tide is never still ; at even slack water its velocity is seldom less than half a mile, and on the second quarter of the flood and ebb it sets at the rate of two knots. From the New South Shoal a ridge of 5 5 to 9 fathoms extends 5 miles in a N.N.E. direction, and has immediately on its edge from 10 to 12 fathoms, deepening very rapidly to 20 and 25 fathoms. On it the sea breaks in bad weather. From the centre of this ridge, the centre of the New South Shoal bears W. by S. 4 miles, and the middle of the Old South Shoal, N. J W. 6 miles. No part of Nantucket Island is visible from the New South Shoal ; but the re- volving light on Sankaty Head is distinctly visible when the weather is clear, and is a valuable mark to indicate its position. New South Shoal Lightvessel, at about 2 miles southward of the shoal, is moored in 14 fathoms, and shows ivfojixed lights at 44 ft. above the sea, visible 12 miles off. It is schooner rigged, coloured red, and has the name " Nantucket South Shoal " on both sides. A foy bell and horn are provided for use in thick weather, and a gun is fired at intervals. A red can buoy is placed in 14 fathoms between the lightship and the shoal. Old South Shoal. This shoal lies northward of the New South Shoal, about 6 XANTUCKET SHOALS. 31 miles, and has soundingss between of 1 1 to 12 and 17 fathoms, on an irregular bottom. It is situate in lat. 41" 5', and long. 69 51', and its centre bearse S. by E. 12| miles from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head. It is about 2 miles in extent from N.E. by N. to S. W. by S., and about half a mile broad. The bottom consists of hard white sand ( and the sea breaks over it in a tremendous manner, so that, at all times, it must be cautiously avoided, particularly as on some parts there are not more than 3 to 8 ft. water, with 12 fathoms close-to. The ground northward and north-eastward of the Old South Shoal is broken, dan- gerous, and marked by occasional strong tide rips. It is probable that there are not any dangers westward of it, as none were found in the examination that was made of the locality. The soundings now become more regular, and it is said that at 20 miles westward of the shoal the depths are 25 to 40 fathoms on black shining mud. At about 4J miles N. J W. from the eastern end of the Old South Shoal, there is a small patch of 8 ft. water, having a depth of 6 fathoms close to it, which lies S.S.E. % E. 9 miles from Sankaty lighthouse ; and 2 miles north-eastward of this are two patches of 14 and 15 ft. lying 7| to 9 miles S.E. | S. from the same building. There are also some shoals of 8 to 14 ft. between these patches and the Bass Rip, but lying rather nearer to the latter, at the distance of 4 miles S.E. from the village of Sias- conset. As there may be other shoals yet undiscovered, it will be prudent when sailing among them to keep a good look-ont. Small coasting vessels from the northward, steering along the shore of Nantucket ( and taking the outside way, are advised to follow the East side of Bass Rip, and, passing over the tail of it in 4 fathoms, to haul round under the South side of the Old Man, which, being generally visible, it is best to keep in sight. Here there is a good beating channel of at least 2 miles in width, i.e., from half a mile to 2 miles from the Old Man. Vessels making this course with an ebb (or westerly) tide, will clear the shoals in a few hours. They will also have more room, and be more favoured by the prevailing westerly winds than in Nantucket Sound. Pochick Rip. This is a rip immediately off the S.E. part of Nantucket Island. It commences at a short distance from Siasconset Village, and runs E.S.E. about 1 mile, where there is a patch of only 6 ft. at low water, between which patch and the island there are a few swatches of from 2J to 3 fathoms, and therefore deep enough for small vessels to pass. From the patch the Rip runs South 1J mile, where there is another swatch, half a mile wide, and 7 fathoms deep. There is a very shoal spot of 6 ft. at a quarter of a mile "W.S.W. from this channel, which shoal spot runs S.W. by W., one-quarter of a mile, and is succeeded by a swatch 220 yard wide, from which Tom Never's Head bears N.N.W., distant 3 miles. You then come to the East end of the Old Man. Old Man. This shoal runs in a "W.S.W. direction about 4 miles, and has from 8 feet to 3 fathoms upon it. In about the centre of the shoal there is a narrow passage of 3 to 4 fathoms, through which boats may pass into the anchorage between the shoal and Tom Never's Head. On either side of this shoal are 7 to 8 and 12 fa- thoms. The East end of this shoal bears S. f E. from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, distant 3 miles ; and its VA'est end S.W. J S. from Tom Never's Head, distant 4 miles. The space between the Old Man and Pochick Rip and the shore contains excellent anchorage, which, with the wind at N.W., X.N.E., E.S.E., South, or S.S.XV., is considered to be better than any in Vineyard Sound, to vessels bound northward or eastward, particularly in the winter season, provided the cables and anchors are good. The depth is 5 fathoms, coarse sand, with Tom Never's Head bearing E.X.E. 5 X., and the southernmost land \V. by X. ; from this to the Old Man the soundings 32 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. are 5 to 14 fathoms, red sand, which will be about halfway between the two, and from this the depth decreases from 13 to 3 fathoms, fine sand, with black specks. Bass Rip. This shoal lies about 2J miles eastward of Siasconset Village, and is about 2 miles long in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and has from 8 to 10 ft. water upon it, and in some places less. Close-to all round it are 5 to 7 fathoms. Southward of the shoal there are various patches, of 8 to 14 ft., scattered about. The North end of Bass Rip bears E. by S. from the lighthouse on Sankaty Head, distant 3 miles ; and its South end S. by E. J E. from the same object, distant 4 J miles. New Shoal. This is a small patch lying about 2 miles eastward of the Bass Rip, upon which there are only 10 to 14 ft. water, and 7 fathoms close-to. From it San- katy Head bears W.N.W. W., distant 4 miles, and Great Point light N.W. J N., lOf miles. Northward of the Bass Rip and New Shoal, about 4 miles, there are several patches of 10 to 14 ft. water, situate about 3| miles from the shore, close to which is a depth of 4J fathoms. From the northernmost of these shoals Sankaty Head bears S.S.W. | W., distant 4 miles, and Great Point light N.W. by W. W. 5$ miles. M'Blair's Shoals. These are a cluster of 9 to 18 ft. patches, lying in lat. 41 24' N., and long. 69 49' W. They have immediately around them 8 to 9 fathoms, and must be cautiously avoided by all vessels approaching Nantucket Island from the north-eastward. From their centre Great Point light bears W. N., distant 10J miles, and Sankaty Head S.W. W., nearly 10 miles. These shoals can readily be perceived by the ripples upon them, caused by the tide, excepting during slack water, at which time there is, of course, no ripple ; but in daylight they exhibit the usual discoloration of water. GREAT RIP. This is a narrow shoal, lying about 10 miles to the eastward of Sankaty Head. Its northern extremity is about 4 miles to the southward of the M'Blair Shoals, in lat. 41 21' and long. 69 45', from whence it extends 13 miles to the S. J E. to lat. 41 8' and long. 69 42' 30". The soundings over it average 3| to 5 fathoms, but there is a part near its northern end where for a space of 4 miles there is a depth of not more than 10 to 17 ft., in the centre of which is a spot of 7 ft., named the Rose and Crown ; this spot is in lat. 41 17', and long. 69 43' 30". In lat. 41 15' a small ship might cross the rip, as here for about a mile is a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms, but this depth is not continued, as it soon decreases in proceeding to the southward to 3* fathoms, with two shoal spots of 17 ft. At 4J miles from the southern end the rip has only 4 to 13 ft. on it, and there are many shallow spots of 9 to 17 ft. between this and the South extremity of the shoal, which might take up a vessel of heavy draught when attempting to cross it either from the eastward or westward. Upon the whole the rip has a very irregular shape, and as there are many shoal spots about it which may have a shifting character, and the soundings in its immediate vicinity are deep, a vessel should always avoid approaching too near. DAVIS'S BANK. This bank extends from lat. 41 0' and long. 69 39', in a N. J E. direction 4| miles, being here very narrow, and having a depth over it of 6 to 8 fathoms ; thence it runs to the N.N.E. E. 5J miles, and widens to about three- quarters of a mile, but the soundings on it decrease to 5 and 3 fathoms. The bank then continues to the N.N.E. 5 miles, and increases in breadth as well as in depth, the soundings over this part being from 6 to 9 fathoms ; it thence runs some dis- tance farther northward with a gradually increasing depth, until it is finally lost in about lat. 41 15', and long. 69 33'. The bottom in this latter position is very uneven, there being many spots of 9 to 5 fathoms. FISHING RIP NANTUCKET HARBOUR. 33 Fourteen-feet Shoal. Among the many shallows northward of Davis's Rank there is a small patch of 14 ft,, situate in lat. 41 17J', and long. 69 37'. It has deep water of 12 and 13 fathoms close to it on each side. Thirteen-feet Shoal. This is a little patch 3 miles northward of the Fourteen-feet Shoal, having close around it a depth of 12 fathoms. Its position is lat. 41 21' and long. 69 37'. FISHING RIP. At about 10 miles westward from Davis's Bank is situate the Fishing Rip, a series of shallows of less than 10 fathoms, but none are sufficiently near the surface to take up a large vessel. They probably extend from lat. 41 0' and long. 69 27' to lat. 41 7J and long. 69^ 23', but thence northward are numerous small banks of less than 10 fathoms, so that it is difficult to define their exact limit. Almost close to the eastern side of these shallows are soundings of 22 and 18 fathoms, and the prevailing depth westward of them, or between them and Davis's Bank, is 15 to 16 fathoms. Asia or Phelps Bank. The foregoing are the chief features as explored by the U.S. Coast Survey, but subsequent to that the steam-ship Asia got soundings in 11 fathoms, gray sand, in lat. 40 46J', long. 69 24' W., or about 13 miles S. E. from the South end of the Fishing Rip. A farther examination of this, by Lieut. Phelps, U.S.N., has shown that this bank, with similar depths, extends for 6J miles to N.N.E., and is 2 miles broad. It is shown upon the chart. NANTUCKET HARBOUR, on the North side of the island, has a depth of from 7 to 14 ft. water up to the wharves, but at times the entrance has not more than 4 or 4 ft. at low water on the bars. It is high water on full and change at 12 h 24 m ; springs rise 3 ft. 7 inches, neaps 2 ft. 6 inches. Lights. On Brant Point, on the West side of the entrance, stands a red light- house 42 ft. high, showing a bright fixed light at 46 ft. ; visible 11 miles off. A small fixed light, termed the Old Bog light, is shown from the window of a small wooden house on the South side of the harbour, 1 mile S.E. from Brant Point light, in line with which it clears the Black Flat, leaving that shoal to starboard in entering. The Cliff Beacons are two small red and bright fixed lights, 100 yards apart, N.X.E. J E. and S.S.W. J W., on two small pyramidal wooden structures, rather more than half a mile N.W. by W. \ W. from Brant Point lighthouse. They are visible 7 miles off. To enter the harbour, bring the Cliff Beacon lights in line, and run for them, passing near the bell buoy in 3 fathoms. Passing Brant Point within 100 fathoms, steer S.W. for the anchorage in from 2 to 3 fathoms, soft bottom. The following directions cannot be depended on, as the bar and channels are con- stantly shifting, and the beacons and buoys are shifted occasionally to suit the altered conditions. It is at all times advisable to take a pilot. The Western Cluinnel is the best, and its fairway is marked by a buoy boat in 3 fathoms. Within this buoy the bar is marked by two buoys, the inner one red, No. 2. There are three more buoys on the Flat within, Nos. 3, 4, 5 ; No. 6 is the Cliff buoy, and the Flat within this is marked by two more buoys. Having entered Nantucket Sound by Butler's Hole, and when up with the Hand- kerchief lightvessel, steer S S.W. towards the harbour, leaving Great Point light 1 or 1J mile distant on the port hand. Entering by the Main Ship Channel, proceed till Great Point light comes to the eastward of South, then follow a S.S.W. course. Or, if from the westward, from Cross Rip lightship, steer E.S.E., and as soon as Great Point lighthouse bears S.E. | E., distant about 5 miles, haul up S. E. for the U.S. Part I. F 34 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. harbour's entrance, leaving the red buoy on the N.E. extremity of Tuckernuck Shoal 1 mile westward of you. A vessel that is to be carried over the bars on the camel will, after passing Great Point light, or Tuckernuck Shoal, run for the town on a S.S.W. or S.S.E. course, and anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms water, with Brant light bearing S. by E. or S A E *J. g - * A vessel of small draught that can pass the channel will run for the buoy-boat off Nantucket Cliff, which is distinguishable by its mast, and anchor near it in 3 or 4 fathoms water, the square tower of a church showing through a gap in the cliff. The Western or Best Channel is marked by eight buoys. From the inner or No. 8 black buoy continue on the same course a quarter of a mile, then steer S.E. f S. about one-third of a mile, until opening Brant Point enough to haul up S.S.W. W. into the harbour. Middle Channel. Find buoy No. 9, by bringing the two small Bugs into range, and run from that in a S.W. S. course to buoy No. 10. From buoy No. 10 steer S. by E. i E. to buoy No. 6 (or Cliff Buoy), and follow in by the Western Channel as before. Eastern Channel. Find the outer buoy of the Middle Channel as before, when the Old Bug will appear a handspike's length to the westward of Brant light ; steer in, keeping on this range, which leads into the Western Channel at Buoy No. 7 (or outer black flat). There is a small shoal to the northward of Brant Point, which will be avoided by shutting in Old Bug light on a house nearly in range to the northward. The best anchorage is near the wharves. There is a channel eastward of this Eastern Channel, in which a vessel will have a depth of not less than 5 ft. at low water on the bar. Commander Caldwell says, " In coming in, bring Brant Point light to bear South, and run for it, until the two lights (one red and the other white) are in range. Run in on this range until the beacon light at the head of the harbour is nearly in range, but open a little eastward of Brant Point light ; then run in on this range, gradually opening the beacon more to the eastward until it shuts in behind the farmhouse ; then run southward into the harbour." In proceeding to sea from Nantucket Harbour, the course from the bar towards the N.E. or Great Point lighthouse will be nearly N.N.E. With the tide setting west- ward, run for the lighthouse, and pass the point at the distance of about 2 miles, leaving Great Point Rip on the starboard side. Be cautious that a tide setting east- ward does not drive you on the Rip. Keep the town of Nantucket open to the west- ward of the lighthouse on the Great Point, until you are 3 miles to the N.N.E. of that point, when you will be in fair ship channel for proceeding either eastward or westward. An E. by S. course will thence carry you to sea, to the southward of the Great Round Shoal, the black buoy on which will be passed at a good distance. With a light wind and southerly tide, there will be a risk of being set too near the Great Point Rip, or on to M'Blair's Shoals ; it will therefore be necessary to keep a good lookout for the red buoy on the end of the former, and when you are to the eastward of it, to keep Great Point lighthouse bearing southward of West. As soon as Sankaty Head light bears S.W. W. you will be clear of all danger, and may steer to the northward or eastward as desirable. Muskeget Channel, the passage into Nantucket Sound from the southward, be- tween Nantucket Island and Martha's Vineyard, is mainly occupied by extensive shoals, so much so that the principal navigable passage, which runs along the western side, and parallel to the eastern shore of Martha's Vineyard, is but 3 cables wide in EDGARTOWN. 35 its southern part. This passage should not be attempted at night, and at all times careful attention should be paid to the lead and the set of the currents. Intending to leave Nantucket Sound by this channel, and having followed the directions already given till abreast of Cape Poge lighthouse, steer so as to pass about a mile north- ward and eastward of it, bringing it in range with Edgailown spire, then shape a course S. W., steering parallel to, and at the distance of a mile from the shore, leaving the red buoy on the S.W. end of Hawes' Shoal on the port, and the black buoy on Tom Shoal on the starboard hand. Continue this course for 6 miles, when you will find the water suddenly deepen to about 17 fathoms, and the red buoy on Mutton Shoal ahead of you, distant half a mile, with the church on Sampson's Hill, at the same time bearing N.W. J N. Steer from this position S.W. S. to pass be- tween Skiffs Island and Mutton Shoal, leaving the red buoy on the latter on the port hand. Keep this course 1 mile, when Wasque Bluff, the S.W. end of Martha's Vine- yard, will bear N. by W., and then you may follow any direction between South and S.S.W., and pass out clear of all danger. Cape Poge Lighthouse stands, as before stated, on the N.E. extreme of Cuap- paquiddick Island, and on the eastern side of the entrance to Edgartown Harbour. It is a white tower, 35 ft. high, showing a fixed light at 5o ft., visible 13 miles off. EDGARTOWN. The harbour of Edgartown, which is 2 leagues to the south- eastward of Holmes's Hole, is the best harbour of Martha's Vineyard. It is a port of entry. The harbour is formed by the eastern part of Martha's Vineyard and the western part of the Isle Chappaquiddick, therefore to the West of Cape Poge light- house, and is bounded by shoals on each side. The tide runs in strongly, but there is excellent anchorage. The town is situate on the western side, up the harbour. A pier has been erected at the entrance of the harbour, and a lighthouse placed thereon, which was first lighted on the 15th October, 1828. The light is fixed, and 50 ft. above the sea. Having followed the directions for Nantucket Sound till off Cape Poge, and coming from the westward, pass to the northward of the outer buoy (red], and if from the eastward, give Cape Poge a berth of half a mile. Steer then S. by W. or S.S.W., keeping in not less than 4 fathoms, soft and sticky bottom, until up with the middle buoy (red), whence you steer S.S.W. towards the lighthouse. Give the buoy off the lighthouse a small berth on the starboard hand, and enter in mid- channel. If in- tending to anchor above the first wharf, keep near the wharves to avoid the shoal off the inner point of Chappaquiddick. In the night, after passing the outer buoy, or Cape Poge, make use of the lead, and tack when the bottom changes from soft to hard, especially on the western side, where the water shoals suddenly from 5 fathoms to 12 feet. After Cape Poge bears E. by S., the course changes from S. by W. to S.S.W., and in sailing up you must observe the before-mentioned precautions as to making use of the lead. There is good anchorage off the town in from 3 to 4 fathoms. If intending to anchor in the outer harbour, follow the above directions until the harbour light bears W. by S., and Cape Poge light about N.E. by E. J E., when you may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms water, good holding ground. When anchoring, be careful, as the bank on either side is steep-to. Holmes's Hole, on the North side of Martha's Vineyard, is also a place of retreat for vessels during the winter. On the West chop of Holmes's Hole, on the starboard hand as you enter, is a lighthouse, showing a. fixed light at 60 ft. If from the eastward, follow the directions for Nantucket Sound, and when abreast East Chop haul to the southward. When coming in from the westward, bring the East Chop well open with the West Chop lighthouse, and it will lead you clear of 36 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. the Middle Ground. Give the West Chop a berth of half a mile, until you are past the buoy marking the rocks off that chop. You can beat in by the lead with perfect safety, the shores being tolerably bold and clear. You can anchor in 3 fathoms, mud, with the West Chop light just open of the woods on Low Point, Small vessels may anchor farther in, and immediately off the town. If you make the light on the West Chop in the night, bearing S.E., you will be clear of the Middle Ground, and may steer for the East side of it till you get into 4 or 3 fathoms on the flat near the chop, and then steer S.E. by E., taking care not to approach the land nearer than in 3 fathoms ; but if, in running S.E. by E., the water should deepen to 6 or 7 fathoms, haul up S. by W. or S.S.W. to 4 or 3 fathoms, as above directed. NANTUCKET SOUND, North Side. The harbours described are on the islands which shelter the Sound on the southward. The following are on the South shore of the Cape Cod Peninsula, commencing from the eastward. The Powder Hole, on the S.W. side of Monomoy Island, has been before noticed. To proceed to this place, steer W. J N. from Pollock Rip lightvessel up to the Shovelful lightship and the black buoy on the S.W. end of the Shovelful Shoal, leaving in your course a black and white buoy on your starboard, and a red buoy on your port hand. From the Shovelful lightvessel haul up on a N. W. course through the narrow but deep channel between the Shovelful and Handkerchief Shoals, leaving the red buoy on the edge of the latter on your western side, and as the former shoal is very shallow and steep-to, it will be necessary not to deviate much from this course, and to tack at the first shoal cast (under 4 fathoms) of the lead. When Monomoy lighthouse bears East, steer N.E. till it bears S.E. by E. | E., then steer for the lighthouse, and when past Monomoy Point, which should have a berth of 50 yards, haul in to the southward, and anchor close inside the point in 2| fathoms, to avoid the flats to the eastward. Old Stage Harbour lies in the extreme N.E. corner of Nantucket Sound, and is formed by the extensive flats which project from the eastern and northern shores, which make a kind of basin with an entrance above a mile in width, and open to the south-westward, the eastern and western sides of which aie marked by two buoys, the red to be left to starboard and the black to port when entering. Anchorage may be had in this harbour in about 4 fathoms water, good holding ground, but exposed to all winds from the southward and westward. Bass River, on the northern shore of Nantucket Sound, will itself only admit very small craft. Before its mouth is a well-sheltered roadstead in 15 and 16 ft., except against southerly gales, which bring in a heavy sea, rendering the anchorage insecure. Here there is a small breakwater, behind which vessels anchor in 6 or 8 feet at low water. Those of light draught may run up close under the breakwater to the eastward of it. A fixed light is shown from a white tower on the keeper's dwelling, situated a mile eastward of the river's entrance, at the height of 40 ft. above the sea, which is visible in clear weather at from 8 to 10 miles off. Vessels approaching from the westward, should bring the light to bear N. by E. to clear the East end of the breakwater, and those approaching from the eastward should bring the light to bear N.W. before running in for the anchorage. HYANNIS. This port is 5 miles westward of Bass River, and is rendered of more importance by its breakwater. It forms a portion of Barnstaple township. Point Gammon, on the eastern side of Hyannis Harbour, is distinguished by a lighthouse of stone, painted white } the light, called the Bug light, is fixed, brilliant, ar.d 36 ft. above the sea. In the fairway, up to and within the small breakwater, there are from 15 to 18 ft. water, and at the head of the landing wharf from 4 to 6 feet. The deep-water HYANNIS. 37 space for anchoring inside the breakwater is, however, very confined, being not more than half a mile in extent, the shallow flats from both shores, especially the Point Gammon side, encroaching upon it and thus limiting its area. High water here, on full and change days, at 12 h 22 m . Springs rise 3 ft. 10 inches ; neaps, 1 foot 9 inches. The dangers in the way of vessels entering Hyannis Harbour are : the Bishop and Clerks, now distinguished by a granite tower on their northern part, serving as a lighthouse, showing a revolving light, with a bright flash every half minute, which bears S. by E. nearly 2 miles from Point Gammon. By giving this lighthouse a berth of a quarter of a mile on the East, North, and West sides, and of 1 mile on the South side, vessels will pass clear of the rocks in not less than 14 ft. A buoy, painted in red and black horizontal stripes, is placed upon a detached rock, which has only 9 ft. water over it, and lies 1~ mile S. J E. from Point Gammon. The Senator Shoal and Gazelle Hock, which lie off the southern side of Point Gammon, and are both marked by buoys, that on the former lying nearly a mile in a south-easterly direction from the point, the other inside it and nearer the point; both buoys should have a good berth on your northern side. The Middle Ground, which is about a mile in extent from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., has 15 to 18 ft. water on it, excepting on its eastern end, where there is a spot of 12 ft., which lies W. by N. 1| mile from the lighthouse on the Bishop and Clerks ; this spot is marked by a striped buoy. The S. W. Ground, a flat of from 7 to 10 ft. water, running off 1| mile southward from the West side of the harbour, with several rocks upon it, the outermost group of which, named Gallatin, lies W. | S. from the buoy on the S.E. corner of the ground, and N.W. by W. W. from the Gangway buoy. The Gangway Hock, a patch of 10 feet, is situated on the W.S.W. Ledge, outside the S.W. Ground ; the buoy on it bears W. by S. | S. from Point Gammon, and N.W. by W. | W. from Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. The Great Rock, above water, lies on the eastern side of the passage into the harbour, S. | W. 1| mile from the Bug light. And the Half-tide Mock, lies S.E. 3 E. a quarter of a mile from the Great Rock, and N.W. W. from Point Gammon. Bound to Hyannis from the eastward, follow the directions given on page 39 for vessels sailing through the North channel of Nantucket Sound, till abreast of Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. Or, from the Handkerchief lightvessel, steer N.W. towards the said lighthouse, and give it a berth on your port hand of half a mile or more. Or, if from the southward and eastward, and in a position off Great Point, with its lighthouse bearing South, distant about 3 miles, steer N.W. by N. towards the Bishop and Clerks, and round them at the same distance. To sail through the North Channel, or that between the Bishop and Clerks and the Senator Shoal, having proceeded on either of the two latter courses, till the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse bears W. by N. about three-quarters of a mile distant, steer N.W. J W. about 3 miles, until Point Gammon bears E. by N. J N., and the Bug light is in one with the West spire of Hyannis ; here the East end of the break- water will be in one with the second small windmill of the salt-works westward of the Bug light, and on with the end of the wharf, bearing N. E. Run in with this latter mark on (N. f E.) about 1| mile, double close round the East end of the break- water, run N.N.W., a cable's length or so, and anchor in 16 ft. water on a muddy bottom. If bound into Hyannis by the Middle Channel (the one between the Bishop and Clerks and the Middle Ground), pass at least one mile to the southward of the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse, leaving the buoy en the South extreme of the reef on the btavboard hand, and bring Point Gammon to bear N. by E. ; run in on that 38 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. course until the lighthouse on the Bishop and Clerks bear E. J S., distant nearly 1 mile, when you steer N.N.W. 2 miles, leaving the striped buoy on the Middle Ground half a mile to port, until Point Gammon bears E. by N. | N., distant 1^ mile ; you now proceed as before. If bound in by the West Channel (the one between the Middle Ground and the W.S.W. Ledge), proceed from Vineyard Sound up to Succonesset lightvessel by re- versing the directions on page 39, and from that lightship steer E. by N. | N., and when Point Gammon bears N.E. by E., distant 2 or 3 miles, run on that course, leaving the Gangway buoy three-fifths of a mile to the northward and westward, until the Bug light is just open to the westward of the West spire, and the East end of the breakwater is on with the second windmill westward of the Bug light, when you may run N. E., as before. DIRECTIONS for Nantucket Sound. BUTLER'S HOLE. If intending to enter Nantucket Sound through Butler's Hole, coming from the eastward, and when about 2 miles East of Chatham lights, bring Pollock Kip lightvessel to bear S. by W. ^ W. and steer for it, leaving the black buoy on Pollock Rip on the starboard hand. When up with the lightship, steer West till Monomoy lighthouse bears North ; in this course your sounding will not be less than 17 or 18 ft., these depths being found passing over the northern prolongation of the Broken Rips or Stone Horse Shoal, the extremity of which is marked by a red buoy, which you will leave a little on the starboard hand. Steer now S.W. by W. for the Handkerchief lightvessel, leaving another red buoy about three-quarters of a mile distant on your port side. To ensure a greater depth of water, when up with Pollock Rip lightvessel, steer W. by N. for 2J miles, or till Monomoy lighthouse bears N.N.W., then proceed on a S.W. 5 W. bearing for the Handkerchief lightship ; on these latter courses you will leave both the foregoing red buoys on the port hand. Although the prominent parts of the Pollock, Shovelful, and Handkerchief Shoals, which form the northern side of Butler's Hole, are marked by black buoys, and those of the Broken Rip or Stone Horse, form- ing the southern side, by red ones, yet too great a freedom should not be taken with these directions in tacking towards either side of the channel, because the lead gives but a very indifferent warning of an approach to the shoals. From Handkerchief lightvessel to Cioss Rip lightvessel the course is first W. | S. 8 miles, and then W. by N. | N, nearly 3 miles, passing the latter vessel on its southern side, between it and the red buoy on the North end of Cross Rip. Here the channel is but 300 fathoms in width. Main Ship Channel. To enter Nantucket Sound by this channel, keep at the distance of about 4 miles from off Chatham lights, and bring them to bear W.N.W., then steer South for 13 miles, passing 7 miles eastward of Monomoy lighthouse, 4 miles eastward of Pollock Rip lightship, and 2 miles eastward of the buoy on the outer end of the broken part of Pollock Rip. If this course be made good, then Sankaty Head light will be seen (in clear weather) bearing S.W. 3 W., and if Great Point light be not brought northward of West you will clear the M'BIair Shoals. Therefore, as soon as Sankaty light bears S.W. i W. distant about 12 miles, haul up W. by N., steering in between M'BIair Shoals on the southern and the Groat Round Shoals on the northern side, passing the red buoy on the extremity of Great Point Rip, a shoal extending 3 miles E.N.E. from Great Point lighthouse, and also the red buoy on the N.E. end of Tuckernuck Shoal, on the port hand ; and the black buoy on the Great Round Shoals on the starboard, giving it a berth of not less than 1 or l\ mile. If this course (W. by N.) be followed, when abreast the Tuckernuck buoy, Cross Rip lightvessel will be seen beating about W.N.W. ; steer for it, and leave it almost close-to on your starboard hand, as before directed. VINEYARD SOUND. 39 From the Cross Rip lightship steer W. by N. A N. 10 miles, which will bring you up to between the red buoys on the East and West extremities of Squash Meadow, and the striped buoy on the East of the Hedge Fence Shoal. Shape a course now for Nobska Point light, steering N.W. by W., and give the Squash Meadow buoys, the East Chop and the West Chop lighthouse a berth of at least half a mile on your port hand. This offing, however, should not be increased to more than 1 or If mile for fear of running on the Hedge Fence, which is long, narrow, and steep-to, with only 4 or 5 ft. on its shoalest part. Its extreme points are distinguished by striped buoys. When about 1 mile S.E. by E. from Nobska light, follow the directions hereafter given for Vineyard Sound. North Channel of Nantucket Sound. Follow the directions already given up to Pollock Rip lightvessel. From the lightship steer W. | N. up to Shovelful lightvessel, passing the red buoy on the North extreme of the Stone Horse or Broken Rip, close on the port hand, and the black buoy on the South end of the Shovelful on the starboard. From Shovelful lightvessel haul up to the N. % W., and continue so till Monomoy lighthouse bears East, remembering only that the edges of the Shovelful and Handkerchief Banks, which form the East and West boundaries of this channel, are but 3 cables' lengths apart, and that in tacking towards them by the lead, you will suddenly shoalen your water from 5 and 4 fathoms to 10 and 6 feet, or even less. When Monomoy light bears East, a N.W. by W. course will clear the North end of the Handkerchief, the red buoy on the edge of which must be left to port ; by following this direction for 6 miles, Bass River light will be seen bearing North, distant 3| miles. Or, the N. J W. course from Shovelful lightvessel may be continued till Monomoy lighthouse bears S.E. E., to a black and white striped buoy ; then steer N.W. 5 W. for about 2 miles, leaving the buoys on the shoal to the northward on the starboard side, and afterwards W. by N. up to where Bass River light bears North, distant 3J miles. Proceed then on a W. N. course, leaving the buoys on the Senator Shoal and Gazelle Rock, which extend southward from Point Gammon, the eastern side of entrance to Hyannis, on the northern side, and the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse between half and three-quarters of a mile to the southward of you. When this latter lighthouse bears E. by S. | S., and the Bug light at Hyannis N.E. by N. \ N., at which time the eastern or New Spire at Hyannis will be on, or nearly so, with the middle of the breakwater, put the vessel's head W. by S. S., which will carry you between the red buoys on the Middle Ground, the North end of the Horse Shoe, and the Eldridge Shoals, on the port hand, and the black ones on the W.S.W. Ledge and Wreck Shoal, on the starboard side, up to Succonesset lightvessel. You will know when you are off the northern end of the Horse Shoe by your water deepening to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms. In turning to windward hereabout do not ap- proach the Horse Shoe nearer than into a depth of 10 fathoms, nor the shore than into 3 fathoms. Pass close round the South side of this lightship, and steer W. | N., leaving the buoys on the Succonesset Shoal to the northward, and those on Loose Shoal and L'Homme de Dieu to the southward, and as soon as Nobska light bears West steer for it, giving the buoy on the West end of L'Homme de Dieu Shoal a berth of 500 yards on the port hand, and Nobska Point a berth of three-quarters of a mile on the starboard. Hence through Vineyard Sound, see directions subsequently given for that channel. For vessels sailing from Vineyard Sound through Nantucket Sound to the eastward, there will be no difficulty in reversing the foregoing directions. But in all cases a pilot is to be considered a necessary guide. VINEYAKD SOUND. Gay Head, the westernmost point of Martha's Vineyard, 40 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. in lat, 40 20J', long. 70 49J', is distinguished by a lighthouse, already noticed. The land of this head is high, and of various colours, appearing red, yellow, and white, in streaks, not unlike the cliffs in Alum Bay, in the Isle of Wight. It forms the South side of the entrance into Vineyard Sound, the North side of which is formed by the Elizabeth Isles. At the western extremity of the latter is the ledge of rocks called the Sow and Pigs, which is very dangerous, but on which a lighthouse is con- structing. The Elizabeth Isles, six in number, and famous for their excellent dairies, form the natural division between Vineyard Sound and Buzzard's Bay. The principal isles of the group are Naushon, Pasqui, Nashawina, Pune or Penequese, and Cuttehuuk. On the S.E. side of Naushon, upon the S.W. side of a cove called Tarpaulin Cove, is the lighthouse, vfith fixed light. At nearly 2 leagues to the southward of Gay Head is an islet called Neman's Land, which serves as a beacon to those approaching the western part of Martha's Vineyard. There is a passage between it and the latter, but it is impeded by a dangerous ledge of rocks, called the Old Man, lying nearly in mid-channel, with Gay Head lighthouse N. | W. 4 miles distant. The Sow and Figs, a ledge of rocks, some above and some under water, bear N.W. by W. 2| leagues from Gay Head, and extend If miles from Cuttehunk, the westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, distinguished by the lighthouse. The first of the flood sets strongly over them to the northward, into Buzzard's Bay, the ground of which is very foul. A lighthouse is (or was) being erected on the ledge. The rocks, resting on an irregular reef of hard stones and pebbles, stretch three- quarters of a mile W. by S., then 820 yards to S.S.W., then a quarter of a mile to S.W. by S., the general direction being S.W. by W. ^ W. 1J mile from the West point of Cuttehunk Island. Cuttehunk Lighthouse is white, and stands on the S.W. point of Cuttehunk or Cuttyhunk Island. It shows a bright fixed light, elevated 42 ft., visible 12 miles off. The Ribbon Reef, of 15 ft. water, lies 1 mile N.W. from the light, and is marked by a striped buoy. Vineyard Sound Lightvessel is moored in 13J fathoms off the S.W. end of Sow and Pigs Iteef, with Cuttyhunk lighthouse bearing N.E. by E. E. 2 miles, and Gay Head S.E. by E. E., 7 miles. The hull of the vessel is painted red, with a yellow streak, and has the name on each side. There are two fixed lights exhibited from the mast-heads, one 34 and the other 23 ft. above the sea, each visible at from 9 to 11 miles. In the daytime one red ball is hoisted at each mast-head, and a bell rung and a horn sounded every alternate five minutes in foggy weather. GAY HEAD Lighthouse is a reddish brick tower, 41 ft. high, showing a bright Jlashing light every 10 seconds at 170 ft., and visible at 20 miles off. Since May, 1874, every fourth flash is to be coloured red. The cliff over which it stands, 130 feet in height, is conspicuous and peculiar from the different colours of its stratified rocks. The Devil's Bridge, a dangerous shoal, stretches off from this cliffy point for half a mile to the N.W., and its extremity is marked by a red buoy. Its outer edge is steep- to, and it requires all care in rounding it. A rocky shoal lies 1 J mile N.W. from Gay Head lighthouse. Menemsha Bight, immediately north-eastward of Gay Head, affords good an- chorage in from 5 to 9 fathoms, about 2J miles eastward of the lighthouse, with the wind from East, round by South, to S.W., but being much exposed to the influence of northerly winds, it should be resorted to only in the summer, or at other times from necessity. There is no danger in the bight, except the flat lining the shore, which VINEYARD SOUND. 41 may be avoided by giving the land a berth of half a mile, or by not going into less than o fathoms. In the upper part of Vineyard Sound the chief dangers are the Middle Ground and its continuation, Lucas Shoal. The Middle Ground, the eastern end of which lies N.W. from the lighthouse on the West Chop of Holmes' Holes, at a quarter of a mile from the nearest shore, leaving a narrow channel between, extends E. by N. and W. by S. 4| miles, and has several swatchways through it. The East end, now distinguished by a striped buoy, has only from 5 and 6 to 10 ft. over it, and may be avoided by keeping the East Chop open North of the West Chop. About a mile from the eastern end of the bank there are but 2 ft., and on its West end only 14 ; here there is also a striped buoy, lying above a mile from the nearest part of Martha's Vineyard. Both sides are very steep, and should be cautiously approached, 9 or 10 fathoms being sufficiently near on the northern side. Lucas Shoal may almost be considered as part of the Middle Ground, being separated from it only by a continuous line of soundings varying from 4 to 5 fathoms. It is small, steep-to, has only 14 ft. over it, and on its western side is marked by a striped buoy, which bears about S. E., 2 miles from Tarpaulin lighthouse, S.W. by W. a similar distance from the striped buoy on the West end of the Middle Ground, and 1| mile off the nearest part of the shore of Martha's Vineyard, with from 5 to 18 fathoms between. There is a small isolated patch of 18 ft. 1 mile S.W. by W. | W. from Lucas Shoal, with 5 and 7 fathoms between. On running from the Gay Head light into Vineyard Sound, if requisite to make a harbour on the North side, bring Gay Head light to bear S.W., and run N.E. 3 leagues, which will carry you up to Tarpaulin Cove light, where you may anchor in from 18 to 4 fathoms ; in the deepest water is fine sand, with the light bearing from W. by N. to S.W. On entering the Sound with a southerly wind, the South channel is, of course, the best. On advancing from the sea, you may run for Gay Head light, when it bears from N.X.E. to E.S.E., giving it a berth of 2 miles, in order to clear the Devil's Bridge, which trends from the light N.W. by N. more than half a mile distant. As measur- ing the distance in the night may be uncertain, you must keep the lead going, and if 7 or 8 fathoms should be found when the light bears S.E. by E. or S.E., haul up to the northward until you have gained 10 or 12 fathoms; then, with flood, steer N.E. ; and with ebb, N.E. by E. nearly 3 leagues ; E.N.E. will thence be the course of the sound, to the northward of the Middle Ground, a bank on which the shoalest water towards the eastward is 2 ft. When the lighthouse on the West Chop of Holmes's Hole is in sight, run for it, keeping 1 mile distant from the shore until you have the East chop 1 cable's length open. With a flood tide steer directly for it ; and with ebb, keep it one point open, till you open a windmill on the West side of the harbour, about 1 cable's length ; now run up in the middle of the river till you come to 4 or 3 fathoms, where you may anchor on good ground. The usual anchor- ing mark is the West chop, bearing from N.N.W. to N.W. by N. ; but, for those who may remain any time, the best anchoring is well up the harbour, close to the shore, mooring S.E. and N.W. in 4 or 5 fathoms. In this harbour, which is about 2 miles deep, a vessel is secured from every wind, except a northerly one. In the night, on approaching the Sound with a strong north-westerly wind, haul to the northward until you find smooth water under the Elizabeth Islands, where you may anchor in from 14 to 10 fathoms. Should the wind be to the southward, it will be best to run down through the South channel or Vineyard side. When Gay U. S.Part L G 42 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Head bears S.S.E. the course wiH be N.E. by E. | E. or E.N.E., observing not to approach the land nearer than into 7 fathoms, until abreast of Lumber? s Cove, in which is good anchorage with southerly and easterly winds. This place may be known by a high sand-bank, called Neciinkey Cliff, on its eastern side. In the middle of the cove you may come-to, in from 5 to 3 fathoms, sandy bottom, which is the best ground. The Middle Ground lies about 2 miles without the cove, and has in this part 12 ft. over it. //, when opposite Necunkey Point, you intend to run for Holmes's Hole, the course will be E. by X., keeping near the land, so as to clear the Middle Ground. You may track the shore by the lead, in from 7 to 4 fathoms, till you come near the lighthouse ; but approach no nearer than 3 fathoms, and you may track around the chop, in the same manner as when running down from the North side of the Middle Ground. There is good anchorage alongshore in 6 or 4 fathoms, after passing to the eastward of Necunkey Point, till you come near the West chop. Quick's Hole, the passage from Vineyard Sound into Buzzard's Bay between Pasque and Nashawena Islands, is but three-quarters of a mile wide, though from 4 to 8 fathoms deep in the fairway. Its eastern entrance is N. E., 5 miles from Gay Head lighthouse, and distinguished by a black buoy on the southern and a red buoy on the northern side. Steer in midway between these buoys N.W. by N. till halfway through the Hole, then North into Buzzard's Bay, keeping as nearly as possible the middle of the channel throughout, or, if obliged to deviate at all, approach near the western rather than the eastern shore, following somewhat the bend of that coast. Half a mile northward of the western entrance there is a small and steep rocky patch of 3J ft., marked by a striped buoy, to which a berth should be given on either hand. Tarpaulin Cove is on the middle of the S.E. side of Naushon Island, and offers good shelter and anchorage ; you may ride out a gale with good ground tackle. Light. A white tower, 32 ft. high, on the West side of the entrance, shows a bright/fceeti light, with a flash every half minute, at 80 ft., visible 13 miles off. The soundings in the cove are from lo to 18 ft., deepening immediately outside to 8 and 10 fathoms, but there are some rocks lying nearly 1 cable's length from the shores of the cov which must be avoided. Near the lighthouse there is a rock of 7 feet, marked by a black buoy, to be left to port on entering. This cove is exposed to all winds between East and E.S.E. Vessels when at anchor here should moor in 5J fathoms, with Gay Head light just open with the lighthouse point. High water, on full and change days, at 8 1 ' 4 ra ; springs range 2J, neaps If ft. NOBSQTJE LIGHTHOUSE. The lighthouse on Nobsque Point, westward of the town of Falmouth, tends to facilitate, in a material degree, the navigation of the Vineyard Sound, both to the eastward and westward. The light is fixed, and was first exhibited on the 10th of November, 1828. It is elevated 83 ft. above the sea, and is shown from the keeper's house, which stands near the eastern extremity of the passage called Wood's Hole. In running through Vineyard Sound from the west- ward, to pass through the main ship channel bring Nobsque light to bear N.W. $ W., then run S.E. E., until West Chop light bears W. by N. $ N. In passing through the North Channel when Nobsque light bears N.W. A W., and Tarpaulin Cove light "W. S., steer N.K. i E. until Nobsque light bears West, then steer E. ^ S. for the Succonnesset Shoal lightvessel. The tide hereabout, on the full and change days, flows at 9 h . In the channel, be- tween Elizabeth Isles and Martha's Vineyard, the flood, however, runs until elevni ./clook. BUZZARD'S BAY. 43 BUZZARD'S BAY extends to the N.E. for 22 miles, being separated from Vine- yard Sound by the line of islands before mentioned, of which Cutty hunk with its lighthouse is the south-westernmost. There are some detached shoals and dangers in the bay, and also many projecting spits from its numerous points, and the most prominent of these are marked by buoys or beacons, but it requires the utmost caution for its safe navigation, which should not be attempted by a stranger without a pilot. The entrance to the bay is between the Cuttyhunk lighthouse and the Sow and Pigs Reef and lightvessel on the South side, and the Hen and Chickens Reef with its lightvessel on the North, the soundings between being- very irregular, from 5 to to fathoms, hard bottom. The Hen and Chickens and Lightvessel. The Hen and Chickens is a dan- gerous reef, extending S. by E., IJ mile from Gooseberry Neck. On the outermost rock, called the Old Cock, is a spindle. The lightvessel, painted lead colour, is moored in 10 fathoms water, about a mile S.E. of the reef, with the spindle bearing N.W. by N. She shows a fixed bright light, elevated. 35 ft., visible 11 miles off, and has a fog bell and horn for use in thick weather. Mishaun Point is to the N.E. of Gooseberry Neck, and, like it, has reefs projecting a considerable distance. On the opposite side of the bay is Penikese Inland, between which and Cuttyhunk is a deep-water and safe channel to those well acquainted, but embarrassed by shoals. Dumpling Light Off Round Hill, S.S.W. of Clark's Point light and New Bed- ford, is a white lighthouse with black lantern, on Dumpling Rock, 33 ft. in height, exhibiting, at 42 ft. above the sea, ^A. fixed light, visible 12 miles. Clark's Point Light. On the West side of the entrance to New Bedford Har- bour is a white lighthouse, placed on the N.W. angle of the foi't on that point. It is 59 ft. in height, showing, at 68 ft. above the sea, a fixed light, visible 12 miles. Cuttyhunk light bears S. 20 W., distant 13 miles. Directions. Those acquainted with Buzzard's Bay commonly use the -western channel, giving the Hen and Chickens a sufficient berth. A league and a half to the north-eastward of these is Mishaun or Mishom Point ; and 2 miles N.E. \ E. from Mishaun Point is the cluster of rocks, above water, called the Dumpling Rocks, which lie off Roundhill Point, and are distinguished by the lighthouse described above. The only danger to be avoided is on Mishaun Point, as a rock lies about 1 mile S.W. by S. from it, having over it only 6 ft. of water ; there is also a ledge directly South of the point, at the distance of a mile, on which there are not more than 3 fathoms, with common ebbs ; it is marked by a black buoy. From a position half a mile South from the Hen and Chickens lightvessel, a N.E. by E. f E. course for 11 miles, leaving the black buoy on Mishaun Ledge, and the striped buoy on Wilkes's Ledge about a mile distant on your port side, will carry you well outside all the dangers before the entrance of New Bedford, and up to abreast the black buoy on the extremity of the ledge running seven eighths of a mile southward from West Island, and to where Clark's Point lighthouse will be seen bearing N.W. by W. Hence you may steer N.E. towards the head of the bay, passing at a good berth on your port hand, in successive order, the spindle on the Cormorant Rock, the striped buoy on Nye's Ledge, the black buoy on Dobell Rock, and Bird Island lighthouse ; and on your starboard side, when near Bird Island, the black and the red buoys on the edge of the shoal fronting Scraggy Neck, and Wing's Neck lighthouse. Between these two lighthouses your soundings will be 4 and 5 fathoms, gradually decreasing as you approach the broad and shallow flat occupying the head of Bu/zard's Bay, over which are the channels to Warchaci 44 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Harbour and Monnmet River. A pilot is absolutely necessary to a stranger wishing to enter any of the harbours. Wood's Hole is in the channel separating Naushon Island from the mainland, and serves as a harbour for vessels either from Vineyard Sound or from Buzzard's Bay, but the passage through is only fit for small vessels. There are two harbours, both on the eastern side of the channel, and named Great and Little Harbours. Great Harbour, on the S.E. side of Long Neck, affords an- chorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms, but is open to southerly winds ; and its length half and breadth a quarter of a mile ; the principal dangers are pointed out by buoys, and there is a landing-place, named Bar Neck Wharf, on its eastern side, nearly close to which are 5 and 6 fathoms water. Little Harbour, separated from the Great Har- bour by Parker's Neck, has its entrance half a mile north-westward of Nobsque lighthouse, runs in about one-third of a mile to the northward, and is therefore also open to southerly winds, is from 1 to 2 cables' lengths in breadth, and has a depth of from 6 to 10 ft. at low water. Intending to proceed into the Great Harbour by the Ship Channel, when off the harbour in 6 fathoms, bring a yellow house at the head of the harbour to bear N. J W. Steer for it, leaving a black buoy on the port hand, and two red ones to starboard, and when Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E., anchor. Or, steer N.W. for the inner harbour, and bring-to in from 4 to 8 fathoms. Red buoys mark the eastern, and black the western limits of this channel, in which, if these courses are preserved, there is not less than 18 ft. water, except on a patch lying nearly in mid-channel off the extremity of Parker's Neck, whereon are only 15 feet water, which you will leave a little on your port hand. Continue on this course till the southern point of that neck comes in range with the church to the north- eastward, then steer for the eastern part of the breakwater until Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E., as before. NEW BEDFORD. The best way to New Bedford, even to vessels from the westward, is through Quicks Hole, the channel between two of Elizabeth's Isles, Nashawena and Pasque. These are the second and third of the larger isles from the westward. The harbour of New Bedford is on the western side of Buzzard's Bay ; and Clark's Point, the western point of the entrance, is distinguished by a light- house, before mentioned. Due North from Clark's Point light another fixed liyht is shown on the N.E. extremity of Palmer 's Island, and on the West side of the entrance to New Bedford inner harbour. The light is elevated 38 ft., and visible 12 miles off. The lighthouse of stone is 34 ft. high, and whitewashed. The directions are, to bring Gay Head light to bear S. W., and steering N. f E. to the passage through the islands, named Quick's Hole, which should be entered as near the middle as possible, or keeping rather to the starboard side, so as to avoid a spit or flat, which extends from the S.E. point of Nashawena, on the port. Proceed- ing thus, you will have from 5 to 6 fathoms, and should then haul in, keeping the port side best on board, and following, in some degree, the bend of the shore. Keep Gay Head light about a ship's length open by the S.E. point of Nashawena, till you are at least 1 mile North of the Hole, and this will carry you to the eastward of a ledge and rock which lie at that distance from it, with only 5 to 12 ft. of water on them, with a good channel to the westward, and 5 fathoms all round. Next steer N. J W. till you strike hard bottom in 5 fathoms, on the S.E. corner of the Great Ledge, which is on the western side of the channel ; then N.E. by N. about three- quarters of a mile, till in 5 or 6 fathoms, sticky bottom, when the light on Clark's Point will bear N. by W., towards which you advance, and run into the river. Off Round Hill Point, at 2 leagues N.N.W. \ W. from the outlet of Quick's Hole, is the cluster of rocks before mentioned, culled the Dunqdinys, upon which is the - MATTAPOISET. 45 lighthouse. From this lighthouse that on Clark's Point bears N.N.E., 4 miles dis- tant. It will therefore be seen, on proceeding upon a direct course from Quick's Hole to New Bedford, at the distance of between 2 and 3 miles ; and when it bears. West, Clark's Point will be about 4 miles distant. Round Hill Channel. Running in from the southward and westward, bring Mishaun Point to bear W. by S., and White Rock a ship's length open to the eastward of Dumpling light, and steer to the northward, leaving the red can buoy, No. 4, on Sand Spit, on the starboard hand, and the black spar buoy off Dumpling Rock on the port hand, and keeping the rock more open as you advance, so as to pass a quarter of a mile to the eastward of the light. When the light bears W. by N. steer N.E. by N., 2^ miles, leaving the red and black buoys on Middle Ledge and Inez Rock on your port hand, until Clark's Point light is in range with Palmer's Island light ; then steer for the beacon on Egg Island Flats N. by E., nearly 2 miles, leaving the black buoy on Old Bartlemy on your port hand, until Palmer's Island light is in range with the tall chimney of Wamsutta Factory. Steer for them, passing the black buoys on Butler's Flats and Eleven-feet Bank on you port , and the red buoys on Egg Island Flat and Fort Flat on your starboard hand, until up with the southern end of Palmer's Island, then steer for the ends of Fairhaven Wharves, passing a red buoy on the North end of Fort Flat on your starboard hand, until you are halfway between them and Palmer's Island light ; then steer for the most northern spire in New Bedford, and anchor near the town. N.B. Wamsutta Factory is a large stone building with a very tall chimney on its eastern side; it is in the northern part of the town, and may be seen over Fairhaven Bridge. Eastern Channel Bring the white beacon on Fort Point in range with the high dark spire in Fairhaven, and steer for them, until Palmer's Island light and the tall chimney before mentioned are in range, then steer as before directed. On the above course you will pass Hursell Rock and Packet Rock red buoys, and Henrietta Rock striped buoy on your starboard hand, and the black buoy on North Ledge on your port hand. There are several buoys placed in Buzzard's Bay, but as these are mostly taken up in winter, and may be occasionally altered and shifted, we cannot give a fair account of them ; especially would it be needless, seeing that it is entirely in pilots' water. MATTAPOISET is situated on the North side of Buzzard's Bay, and is a fine harbour, easy of access. On the East side of Mattapoiset Harbour, about a mile S.E. from the village, is Ned's Point and Lighthouse, showing a fixed light at 43 ft. The tower is of stone, and whitewashed ; from it Cormorant Rock spindle bears S. W., Nye's Ledge buoy S. by E. E. Before coming up with West Island, bring Bird Island light to bear N.E. by N., and run for it until Ned's Point light bears N.N.W. | W., when you may haul up N.W. 5 N. In running this course you will pass a white buoy with two black stripes around it, lying on Nye's Ledge, in 2 fathoms water ; this ledge is a quarter of a mile across, and has not more than 8 ft. on some parts of it. Continuing this course, you will pass a buoy on your port hand, painted white, with three black stripes around it, lying on the S.E. part of Mattapoiset Ledge, in 2| fathoms. Con- tinue the above course, and you will pass two buoys, one on your port hand, and the other to port ; the latter is on the East side of the Sinking Ledge, in 3 fathoms, and the former is on the side of the Snow Rock, in 2 fathoms ; the rock has 8J feet over it. Keep midway until you pass them, when you may steer N.W. by \V. 46 BOSTON TO NEW YORK. until Ned's Point light bears East, when yon may anchor in 3 fathoms water, good bottom. There are two other buoys not named above ; one stands about N.E. from Snow Rock, in 3 fathoms water, by the side of Barslow Rock, the other on the extremity Ned's Point, in 2 fathoms. Bird Island Lighthouse. Bird Island is near the N.W. shore of Buzzard's Bay, 8 miles N.E. E. from the South point of West's Island, and near the mouth of Sippican, or Rochester Harbour ; it lies half a mile South from the Great Neck, or eastern chop of the same. It is very small, not covering more than three acres, and is about 5 ft. above the level of the sea. The light and dwelling-houses are of stone, and whitewashed. The light-tower is 31 ft. high, and the light, elevated 37 ft., seen at a distance of 15 miles off, revolving once in li minute. The time of total darkness is equal to twice that of light. From Bird Island Lighthouse the North end of Quick's Hole, between Nashawena and Pasque, bears S.W. by S. 15 miles ; that of Wood's Hole South, 9 miles ; and the entrance of Monumet River, at the head of the bay, N.E. by E. J E. 6 miles. Sippican Harbour, 3 miles north-eastward of Mattapoiset, has its entrance be- tween Charles's Neck and Bobell Rock on the western, and Sippican Neck and Bird Island on the eastern side. It thence runs in N. by W. J W,, 3 miles, the deepest water, 13 to 21 ft., first being found along the eastern, and afterwards along the western shore, passing on the West side of a small island lying nearly in mid- channel, up to Sippican, where are from 7 to 10 ft. To run up to Sippican, a stranger should obtain the aid of a pilot. Near the head of Buzzard's Bay, on the East side of the entrance to Sandwich Harbour, a. fixed bright light is shown at 44 ft. elevation. The COAST westward of Buzzard's Bay, between Gooseberry Neck and Saugh- konuet Point, forms a rocky bay, and a ship should avoid drifting within the line joining its outer points. At its head is Westyort, a small harbour used by coasters, but requiring a pilot. Its West point of entrance is called Rock Point. RHODE ISLAND is the easternmost of the cluster which fills the extensive bay, of which Saughkonnet Point is the S.E. entrance. Saughkonnet River separates it from the mainland on the East. A shoal flat extends half a mile South, East, and West of Saughkonnet Point, upon which are several large rocks always above water, and there is also a shoal patch of 4^ fathoms three-quarters of a mile South to S. by E of the point ; from Sachuset Point, three- quarters of a mile S. by W., lies the Cormorant Rock, with 6 and 7 fathoms close-to all round ; but there is a shallow bank of 3 and 4 fathoms half a mile westward of it, and another W. by S. $ S. of it. To avoid these dangers shape a course midway between the two points, steering N. by E. Brenton's Reef lies off the S.W. point of Rhode Island, and its lightvessel is the guide to the entrance to Newport Harbour on the eastern side, as the Beavertail lighthouse on the South point of Conanicut Island is on the western side of this entrance. Brenton's Reef Lightvessel, on the East side of entrance to Newport, is moored in 14 J fathoms. This vessel is painted of a straw colour, with the words " Brenton's Reef" on each side in black letters, and is furnished with a fog bell and horn ; she exhibits two Jixed lights, 40 and 50 ft. respectively above the sea, which are visible about 12 miles. , Point Judith light bears S.W. by W. i W. ; Beavertail, N.W. by N. i N. ; Castle Hill Point, N.E. by X. ] N. Beavertail Lighthouse, on the South point of Conanicut Island, entrance to Newport Harbour, is a square granite lighthouse on the S.E. angle of keeper's NEWPORT, OR RHODE ISLAND HARBOUR. 47 dwelling, 74 ft. in height, and 96 ft. above the sea, in lat. 41 26' 55', and long. 71 J 23' 59 , exhibiting a fixed light, visible 16 miles. Dwelling painted white. A first-order Daboll trumpet, giving blasts of 6 seconds, at intervals of 10 and 50 seconds alternately, is established here for use in thick weather. About 300 yards S.S.W. from the Beavertail lighthouse is a sunken rock, named th