B/EDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. GREAT BRITAIN, with 15 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama. Third Edition. 1894. 10 marks. LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with '6 Maps and 18 Plans. Xinth Edition. 1894. 6 marks. THE UNITED STATES, with an Excursion into Mexico. With 17 Maps and 22 Plans. 1893. 12 marks. THE DOMINION OF CANADA, with Newfoundland and Alaska, with lU 3Iaps and 7 Plans. 18S4. 5 marks. BELGIUM AND HOLLAND, with 13 Maps and 21 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1894. 6 marks. THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with 39 Maps and 21 Plans. Twelfth Edition. 1892. 7 marks. NORTHERN GERMANY, with 32 Maps and 56 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 8 marks. SOUTHERN GERMANY and AUSTRIA, with 15 Maps and 30 Plans. Seventh Edition. 1891. 8 marks. THE EASTERN ALPS, with 35 Maps, 12 Plans, and 7 Pano- ramas. Seventh Edition. 1891. 8 marks. GREECE, with 8 Maps, 15 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens. Second Edition. 1894. 8 marks. NORTHERN ITALY, including Leghorn, Florence, Ra- venna, vpith 26 3Iaps and 29 Plans. Tenth Edition. 1895. 8 marks. CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 10 Maps, 33 Plans, and a Panorama ot Rome. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 6 marks. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, etc., with 25 Maps and 16 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 6 marks. NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK, with 26 Maps, 15 Plans, and 2 Panoramas. Fifth Edition. 1892. 10 marks. PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, with Routes from London TO Paris. With 12 Maps and 33 Plans. Eleventh Edition, 1894. 6 marks. NORTHERN. FRANCE, with 9 Maps and 27 Plans. Second "- Edition. 1894. 7 marks. SOUTHERN FRANCE, with 14 Maps and 19 Plans. 1891. 9 marks . SWITZERLAND, with 39 Maps, 12 Plans, and 12 Panoramas. Fifteenth Edition. 1893. t) marks. LOWER EGYPT, with the Peninsula of Sinai, with 14 aiaps, 32 Plans, and 7 Views. Third Edition. 1895. 12 marks. UPPER EGYPT, AND Nubia as far as the Second Cata- ract. With 11 Maps and 26 Plans. 1892. 10 marks. PALESTINE AND SYRIA, with 17 Maps, 44 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem. Second Edition. 1894. 12 marks. CONVERSATION DICTIONARY in four languages. Eng- lish, Frencli, German, Italian. 3 marks. THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF (CONVERSATION, in Kngmsh, Gkkman, French, and Italia 3 marks. UNIV. OF CALIF. LIBRARY, LOS ANGELES c / LONDON AND ITS ENYIRONS HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER. WITH 3 MAPS AND 18 PLANS. NINTH REVISED EDITION. LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE VV. 1894. All rkihts reserved 'Go, little book, God send tliee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.' UNIV. OF CALIF. LIBfJARY. LOS ANGELES iiTACK ANNEX 1>A B2 PREFACE. 9^ 1 he chief object of the Handbook for London, like that of the Editor's other European and Oriental guide-books, is to enable the traveller so to employ his time , his money, and his energy, that he may derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and instruction from his visit to the greatest city in the modern world. As several excellent English guide-books to London al- ready existed , the Editor in 1878 published the first English edition of the present Handbook with some hesitation, not- withstanding the encouragement he received from numerous English and American correspondents, who were already familiar with the distinctive characteristics of 'Baedeker's Handbooks'. So favourable a reception, however, was accord- ed to the first edition that the issue of a second became ne- cessary in little more than a year, while seven other editions have since been called for. The present volume embodies the most recent information, down to the month of Julj^ 1894, obtained in the course of personal visits to the places describ- ed, and from the most trustworthy sources. In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re- ceived most material assistance from several English and American friends who are intimately acquainted with the great Metropolis. His grateful acknowledgments are specially due to the Rev. Robert Gwynne, B. A., who has contributed numerous valuable corrections and interesting historical and topographical data. Particular attention has been devoted to the description of the great public collections, such as the National Gallery, the British Museum, and the South Kensington Museum, to all of which the utmost possible space has been allotted. The accounts of the pictures in the National Gallery, Buckingham Palace, Hampton Court, the Dulwich Gallery, and the various private collections , are from the pen of Dr. Jean Paul RiCHTER of London. The Introduction, which has purposely been made as comprehensive as possible , is intended to convey all the in- formation, preliminary, historical, and practical, which is best iv PREFACE. calculated to make a stranger feel at home in London, and to familiarise him with its manners and customs. While the de- scriptive part of the work is topographically arranged, so that the reader may see at a glance which of the sights of London may be visited together, the introductory portion classifies the principal sights according to their subjects, in order to present the reader with a convenient index to their char- acter , and to facilitate his selection of those most congenial to his taste. As, however, it has not been the Editor's pur- pose to write an exhaustive account of so stupendous a city, but merely to describe the most important objects of general interest contained in it, he need hardly observe that the in- formation required by specialists of any kind can only be given to a very limited extent in the present work. The most noteworthy sights are indicated by asterisks. The list of Hotels and Restaurants enumerated in the Handbook comprises the most important establishments and many of humbler pretension. Those restaurants which the Editor believes to be most worthy of commendation are denot- ed by asterisks. The same system , however , has not been extended to the hotels , those enumerated in the Handbook being generally unexceptionable. The hotels at the West End and at the principal railway-stations are the most expen- sive, while the inns in the less fashionable quarters of the Metropolis generally aflford comfortable accommodation at moderate charges. The Maps and Plans, upon which the utmost care has been bestowed, will also, it is hoped, be found serviceable. Those relating to London itself (^one clue-map, one large plan, four special plans of the most important quarters of the city, and a railway plan~) have been specially revised for this edition, and are placed at the end of the volume in a separate cover, which may if desired be severed from the Handbook altogether. The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three sections of different colours will be found greatly to facilitate reference, as it obviates the necessity of unfolding a large sheet of paper at each consultation. The Routes to places of interest in the Environs of London, although very brief, will probably suffice for the purposes of an ordinary visit. Some of the longer excursions that appeared in earlier editions have now been transferred to Baedeker's Kandhook to Great Britain. CONTENTS. Introduction. Page 1. Money. P^xpenaes. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time 1 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival 2 3. Hotels. Boarding Houses. Private Lodgings 5 4. Restaurants. Dining Rooms. Oyster Shops. Confectioners 10 5. Cafes. Billiard Rooms. Chess 15 6. Reading Rooms. Libraries. Newspapers 16 7. Baths 18 8. Shops, Bazaars, and Markets. The Co-operative System 19 9. Cahs. Omnibuses. Tramways. Coaches 27 10. Railways 32 11. Steamboats " 38 12. Theatres, Music Halls, and other Entertainments ... 39 13. Concerts and Exhibitions of Pictures 44 14. Races, Sports, and Games 46 15. Embassies and Consulates. Bankers 49 16. Divine Service 50 17. Post and Telegraph Offices. Parcels Companies. Com- missionnaires. Messengers. Lady Guides 53 18. Outline of English History 56 19. Historical Sketch of London 62 20. Topography and Statistics 67 21. General Hints 70 22. Guilds. Charities. Societies. Clubs 71 23. Preliminary Ramble 75 24. Disposition of Time 77 25. Books relating to London 80 Sights of London. I. The City. 1. St. Paul's Cathedral 81 2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate. Hol- born 90 Paternoster Row, 90. — Peel's Statue, 91. — Barber Sur- geons' Court Room, 92. — Central Criminal Court. Hol- born Viaduct. St. Sepulchre's Church, 94. — Ely Chapel, 95. 3. St. Bartholomew's Hospital. Smithfield. Charterhouse 95 St. Bartholomew the Great, 96. — Central London Meat Market, 97. — St. Giles, Cripplegate, 98. — St. John's Gate. Bunhill Fields Cemetery. Friends' Burial Ground, 99. — Honourable Artillery Company. Allan Wesleyan Library, 100. 4. Guildhall. Cheapside. Mansion House 100 Goldsmiths' Hall. Bow Church, 101. — Gresham College, 103. — Mercers' Hall. Grocers' Hall. Armourers' Hall. St. Stephen's Church, lOL vi CONTENTS. Page 5. The Bank of England. The Exchange 105 Bankers'" Clearing House. Stock Exchange. Drapers' Hall. Dutch Church, 106. — Merchant Taylors' Hall. Crosby Hall, 107. — St. Helen's Church, 108. — Cornhill. Leadenhall Market. St. Andrew's Undershaft. St. Catherine Cree, 109. — Corn Exchange. St. Olave's Church. Minories. St. Jude's. Toynhee Hall. People's Palace, 110. 6. London Bridge. The Monument. Lower Thames Street 111 St. Mary Woolnoth, 111. — City and South London Electric Railway. Fishmongers' Hall. St. Magnus the Martyr's. Bil- lingsgate, 113. — Custom House. Coal Exchange, 114. 7. Thames Embankment. Blackfriars Bridge. Queen Vic- toria Street. Cannon Street 115 Cleopatra's Needle, 116. — Office of the Times. Bible Soci- ety, 118. — Heralds' College. London Stone, 119. — South- wark Bridge, 120. 8. The Tower 120 Trinity House. All Hallows, Barking, 127. — Tower Sub- way. Royal Mint. Tower Bridge, 12S. 9. The Port and Docks 129 St. Katherine's Docks. London Docks, 129. — Thames Tunnel, 130. — Commercial Docks. Regent's Canal. West India Docks. East India Docks. Millwall Docks. Victoria and Albert Dock,?, 181. 10. Bethnal Green Museum. National Portrait Gallery. Victoria Park 131 11. Fleet Street. The Temple. Chancery Lane. Royal Courts of Justice 137 St. Bride's. St. Dunstan's in the West, 133. — New Record Office, 139. — Lincoln's Inn. Gray's Inn, 140. — Temple Church, 141. — Temple Bar, 148. II. The West End. 12. Strand. Somerset House. Waterloo Bridge 145 St. Clement Danes, 145. — Roman Bath. King's College. St. Mary le Strand, 146 — Savoy Chapel. Society of Arts. National Life Boat Institution, 146 — Eleanor's Cross, 149. 13. Trafalgar Square 149 Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields, 150. — Charin;; Cross. Charing Cros? Road. Shaftesbury Avenue, 151. 14. The National Gallery 152 15. Royal College of Surgeons. Soane Museum 183 Lincoln's Inn Fields, 183. — Covent Garden Market, 186 — St. Paul's. Garrick Club, 187. 16. Whitehall 188 Royal United Service Museum, 189 — Horse Guards. Gov- ernment Offices, 190. — Montague House. New Scotland Yard, 191. 17. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall 191 St. Margaret's Church, 198. — Westminster Bridge, 199. 18. Westminster Abbey 200 Westminster Column. Westminster School, 2'24. — West- minster Hospital. Royal Aquarium, 225. 19. Pall Mall and Piccadilly 225 Haymarket. Waterloo Place. Crimean Monument, 22 . — CONTENTS. vii Page ?ork Column. St. James's Square. Marlborough House. St. James's Street, 224. — Burlington House. Royal Soci- ety, 228. — Royal Academy. London University, 229. — St. James's Church. Geological Museum, 230. — Leicester Square, 231. 20. Regent Street. Oxford Street. Holboru 232 Hanover Square. Cavendish Square, 232. — All Saints' Church, 233. — Soho Squ; re. St. Giles-in-the-Fields. Bed- ford Square. Bloomsbury Square. Russell Square, 234. — University College. Catholic Apostolic Church. University Hall. St. Pancras' Church, 235. — Somers Town. Camden Town. Kentish Town. Islington. Highbury. Holloway. Canonbury Tower. Foundling Hospital, 236. 21. Regent's Park 237 Zoological Gardens, 2B7. — Botanic Gardens, 240. — St. Kath- erine's Hospital. Primrose Hill. Lord's Cricket Ground, 241. 22. The British Museum 242 23. St. James's Palace and Park. Buckingham Palace . . . 266 Royal Mews. Green Park, 270. 24. Hyde Park. Kensington Gardens and Palace. Holland House 270 St. George's Cemetery, 274. 25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and St. James's . . 274 Grosvenor House. Stafford House, 275. — Bridgewater House, 276. — Lansdowne House. Apsley House, 277. — Dorchester House. Hertford House, 278. — Lady Brassey Museum. Devonshire House. Earl of Northbrook's Col- lection, 279. — Mr. L. Mond's Collection, 280. 26. Albert Memorial. Albert Hall. Imperial Institute. Natural History Museum 280 Gore House. Royal College of Music, 281. — School of Art Xeedlework. School of Cookery, 283. 27. South Kensington Museum. India Museum 285 Exhibition Galleries, 300. — Brompton Oratory, 303. 28. Belgravia. Chelsea. Kensal Green Cemetery 303 Chelsea Hospital, 304. — Royal Military Asylum. Chelsea Church, 305. III. The Surrey Side. 29. St. Saviour's Church 307 Barclay and Perkins' Brewery, 308. — Guy's Hospital. South- wark Park, 309. 30. Lambeth Palace. Bethlehem Hospital. Battersea Park . 309 St. Thomas's Hospital, 309. — St. George's Cathedral. Christ Church. Doulton's Pottery Works, 311. — Clapham Common. Dives'-. Flour Mills, 312. Excursions from London. 31. Greenwich Hospital and Park 313 32. Woolwich 316 33. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham 317 34. Dulwich 324 35. Hampton Court. Richmond. Kew 327 36. The Thames from London Bridge to Hampton Court . . 336 viii CONTENTS. Page 37. Hampstead. Highgate 340 38. Epping Forest. Waltham Abbey. Rye House .... 342 Chingford. 343. — From Rye House to Hertford, 344. 39. St. Albans 345 Harrow on the Hill, 345. — From St. Albans to Luton and Dunstable, 347. 40. Rickmansworth. Chenies. Chesham 347 41. Windsor. Eton 349 From Slough to Stoke Poges and Burnbam Beeches, 349. — Runnimede. HoUoway College, 351. 42. Gravesend. Chatham. Rochester 357 Eltham, 360. — Cobham Hall. Gadshill. Chalk, 360, 361. List of Eminent Persons 362 Index 366 Index to Plan of London in the Appendix. List of Maps and Flans. 1. Railway Map of England, before the title-page. 2. Map of the Environs of London, between pp. 312 and 313. 3. Key-Plan of London. 4. Plan of London in three sections. 5. Special Plan of the "West End from Baker Street to Soho. 6. „ _,; „ Holbom, Fleet Street, and Strand. 7. „ „ „ the City. 8. „ „ ;; the West End from Hyde Park and Bel- gravia to the Thames. 9. Railway Map of London. 10. St. Paul's Cathedral, p. 83; 11. the Tower, p. 122; 12. the National Gallery, p. 153; 13. Houses of Parliament, between pp. 192 and 193; 14. Westminster Abbey, p. 201 ; 15. Zoolog- ical Gardens, between pp. 236 and 237 ; 16. British Museum, between pp. 242 and 243; 17-19. South Kensington Museum, survey plan, p. 284 ; special plans, pp. 287 and 297 ; 20. Crystal Palace, p. 418; 21. Windsor Castle, p. 350. Abbreviations. M. = Engl, mile; hr. = hour; min. = minute; r. = right; 1. = left; N. = north, northwards, northern; S. = south, etc.; E. = east, etc.; W. = west, etc.; R. = room; B. = breakfast; D. = dinner; A. = at- tendance; L. = light. The letter d, with a date, after a name indicates the year of the person's death. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. INTEODUCTION. 1. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time. Money. In England alone of the more important states ol Eu- rope the currency is arranged without much reference to the decimal system. The ordinary English Gold coins are the sovereign or pound [l. = libra) equal to 20 shillings, and the half-sovereign. Th.e Silver coins are the crovFn (5 shillings), the half-crown, the double florin (4 shillings; seldom seen), the florin (2 shillings), the shilling (s. = solidus), and the six-penny and three-penny pieces. The Bronze coinage consists of the penny (d., Lat. denarius), of which 12 make a shilling, the halfpenny (V2^')5 ^^^ *^® farthing ('A '^O- The Guinea^ a sum of 21s., though still used in reckoning, is no longer in circulation as a coin. A sovereign is approximately equal to 5 American dollars, 25 francs, 20 German marks, or 10 Austrian florins (gold). The Bank of England issues notes for 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 pounds, and upwards. These are useful in paying large sums; but for ordinary use , as change is not always readily procured, gold is preferable. The number of each note should be taken down in a pocket-book , as there is a bare possi- bility of its being in this way traced and recovered, if lost or stolen. Foreign Money does not circulate in England, and should always be exchanged on arrival. A convenient and safe mode of carrying money from America or the Continent is in the shape of letters of credit, or circular notes, which are readily procurable at the prin- cipal banks. A larger sum than will suffice for the day's expenses should never be carried on the person, and gold and silver coins of a similar size {e.g. sovereigns and shillings) should not be kept in the same pocket. Expenses. The cost of a visit to London depends, of course, on the habits and tastes of the traveller. If he lives in a first-class hotel, dines at the table d'hote, drinks wine, frequents the theatre and other places of amusement, and drives about in cabs or fiys instead of using the economical train or omnibus, he must be prepared to spend 30-40s. a day or upwards. Persons of moderate requirements, however, will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook, in living comfortably and seeing the principal sights of London for 15-20s. a day or even less. Season. The 'London Season' is chiefly comprised within the months of May, June, and July, when Parliament is sitting, the Baedkker, London. 9th Edit. | 2 2. PASSAGE. aristocracy are at their town residences, the greatest artistes in the world are performing at the Opera, and the Picture Exhibitions open. Families who desire to obtain comfortable accommodation had better be in London to secure it by the end of April ; single travellers can, of course, more easily find lodgings at any time. Passports. These documents are not necessary in England, though occasionally useful in procuring delivery of registered and poste restante letters (comp. p. 53). A visa is quite needless. Ameri- can travellers, who intend to proceed from London to the Continent, should provide themselves with passports before leaving home. Passports, however, may also be obtained by personal application at the American Consulate in London (p. 49). The visa of the Americ an ambassador, and that of the minister in London of the country to which the traveller is about to proceed, are sometimes necessary. Custom House. Almost the only articles likely to be in the possession of ordinary travellers on which duty is charged are spirits and tobacco, but a flask of the former and ^/o^^- of the latter are allowed for private use. Three pounds of tobacco may be passed on payment of a duty of Os. per pound , and (in the case of cigars) a slight fine for the contravention of the law forbidding the importa- tion of cigars in chests of fewer than 10,000. Foreign reprints of copyright English books are liable to confiscation. The custom- house examination is generally lenient. Time. Uniformity of time throughout Great Britain is maintained by telegraphic communication with Greenwich Observatory (p. 315). 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival. It may not be out of place here to furnish a list of the principal oceanic routes between the New World and England, and also to indicate how Transatlantic visitors may continue their European travels by passing from London to the Continent. An enumeration of the routes between the Continent of Europe and London may also prove serviceable to foreigners coming in the reverse direction. It should , however , be borne in mind that the times and fares mentioned in our list are liable to alteration. Koutes to England from the United States of America and Canada. The traveller has abundant room for choice in the mat- ter of his oceanic passage, the steamers of any of the following companies affording comfortable accommodation and speedy transit. American or International Line. Every Wed. from New York to Southampton. Cabin 80-250 dollars ; return-ticket (available for 12 months) 130-450 dollars. From Southampton to New York every Saturday. Fare 12-50^. ; return 22-90Z. The finest steamers of this line are the New York and the Paris. A steamer of this company sails from Philadelphia to Liverpool every Thursday, and from Liverpool to Philadelphia every Wednesday. Cabin 10 to ISgra.; 2. PASSAGE. 3 return-ticket 20 to SOgs.] intermediate Ql. London offices, 116 Leadenhall St., E. C, and 3 Cockspur St., S.W. Cunard Line. A steamer of this company starts every Satur- day and every second Tuesday from New York and every Saturday from Boston for Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin fare 60, 80, 100, or 125 dollars, according to accommodation ; return-ticket (available for 12 montlis") 120, 144, 180, or 220 dollars. Steamers from Liver- pool for New York every Saturday and every second Tuesday, for Boston every Thursday. Fare 12, 15, 18, or 21 guineas, or 26^.; return-ticket 25, 30, or 35 guineas, or 45L The Campania and the Lucania are considered the best Cunarders. London offices at 93 Bishopsgate Street, and 13 Pall Mall. White Star Line. Steamer every Wednesday from New York to Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin 60 to 140 dollars ; steerage 20 dollars. From Liverpool to New York every Wednesday. Cabin 12-120i, , return (available for one year) 24-40L ; second cabin 7-iOl. The Majestic and Teutonic are at present the largest vessels of this line. London office, 34 Leadenhall Street, E.G. North German Lloyd Line. From New York to Southampton every Tuesday and Saturday; from Southampton to New York every Wednesday and Sunday. Main saloon from 13i. ; after saloon from ill. The newest and finest boats of this company are the Havel and the Spree. Loudon offices, 65 Gracechurch Street, E.G., and 32 Cockspur Street, W.C. Hamburg - American Line. From New York to Southampton every Thursday. Saloon 1121/2-275 dollars ; second cabin 60-75 dollars. From Southampton to New York on Friday. Anchor Line. Steamer from New York to Glasgow every Satur- day ; from Glasgow to New York every Thursday. Saloon from 9gs.^ second cabin from 6l. 10s., steerage 5^. or 5^. 5s. The best Anchor liner is the City of Rome. London address, 18 Leadenhall Street, E. C, and 8 Regent Street, S. W. Allan Line. From Liverpool every Thursday to Halifax and Portland, and every alternate Tuesday to St. John's, Halifax, and Baltimore. Saloon 10-18^ s.; intermediate 6^s. London address, 103 Leadenhall Street. Also to New York weekly (Wilson Hill Line). Guion Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Liver- pool. Cabin fare 10-26i. London office, 5 Waterloo Place. Dominion Line. Weekly steamers from Liverpool to Halifax and Portland ; fortnightly from and to Bristol. Saloon 10-i5grs. ; intermediate Qgs. London address, 18 Cockspur Street, W.C. The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 6-10 days. The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack cloth- ing and other necessaries for the voyage in small boxes or portmanteaus, such as can lie easily in the cabin , as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. State-room trunks should not exceed 3 ft. in length, 2 ft. in breadth, and IV2 ft. in height. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and serviceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be provided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may be purchased i* 4 2. PASSAGE. at the dock or on the steamer before sailing (from Is. upwards), is a luxury that may almost be called a necessary. It may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-journey. The Ocean Comfort Co., represented on the wharves at Liverpool and New York , lets chairs at 4«. for the voyage, and the International Steamship Co. provides the same convenience for 2s. On going on board, the traveller should apply to the purser or chief steward for seats at table, as the same seats are retained throughout the voyage. It is usual to give a fee of 10s. (2V2 dollars) to the table-steward and to the state-room steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-steward , etc. The state-room steward should not be 'tipped' until he has brought all the passenger's small baggage safely on to the landing-stage or tender. At Southampton the steamers of the American line (p. 2) enter the docks, but at Liverpool landing is generally effected with the aid of a steam- tender, to which passengers and luggage are transferred from the Trans- atlantic steamer. The passengers remain in a large waiting-room until all the baggage has been placed in the custom-house shed. Here the owner will find his property expeditiously by looking for the initial of his sur- name on the wall. The examination is generally soon over (comp. p. 2). Porters then convey the luggage to a cab (3d. for small articles, 6d. for a large trunk). — Baggage may now be 'expressed' from New York to any city in Europe. Agents of the English railway companies, etc., also meet the steamers on arrival at Liverpool and undertake to 'express' baggage on the American system to any address given by the traveller. Feom Liverpool to London , by railway , the traveller may proceed by the line of one of four different companies (202-238 M. according to route, in 41/2-8 hrs. ; fares by all trains 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 6d. ; no second class by Midland or Great Northern Railways). The Midland Railway to St. Pancras runs by Matlock, Derby, and Bedford. The route of the London and North Western Railway (to Euston Square Station) goes via Crewe and Rugby. By the Great Western Rail- voay to Paddington we may travel either via Chester, Birmingham, War- wick , and Oxford; or via Hereford and Gloucester; or via Worcester. Or, lastly, we may take a train of the Great Northern Railway to King's Cross Station, passing Grantham and Peterborough (with a fine cathedral). Should the traveller make up his mind to stay overnight in Liverpool he will find any of the following hotels comfortuble : North Western Hotel, Lime Street Station; Adelphi, near Central Station; Grand, Lime Street; Alexandra, Dale Street; Shaftesbury Temperance Hotel, Mount Pleasant. From Southampton to London, by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (79 M., in 2V4-3 hrs. ; fares 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. 6d.). Hotels at Southampton: South Western; Radley's; Royal; Dolphin. From Plymouth to London, by Great Western Railivay to Pad- dington Station, or by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (247M., in53/4-llhr3. ; fares 46s. 6d., 32s. iOd., 18s. 8d.). Hotels at Plymouth: Grand; Duke of Cornwall ; Royal; Westminster; Globe. For fuller details of these routes, see Baedeker s Great Britain. Routes from England to the Continent. The following are the fa- vourite routes between London and the Continent: — From Dover to Calais thrice a day, in I1/4-I3/4 hr. ; cabin lOs. , fore- cabin 8s. (Railway from London to Dover, or vice versd. in 2-4 hrs. ; fares 20s. or 18s. M.. 15s. or 13s. Qd., (3s. 2^/2d.) From Folkestone to Boulogne, twice a day, in 2-3 hrs.; cabin 8s., fore- cabin 6s. (Railway from London to Folkestone in 2-4 hrs.; fares same as to Dover, except 3id class, which is G.s.) From Dover to Ostend, thrice a day, in 3-5 hrs.; cabin bs. 6d., fore- cabin 6s. Id. From London to Ostend, twice a week, in 12 hrs. (6 hrs. at sea) : 8«. or 6s. 2. PASSAGE. 5 From London to Rotterdam , twice a week , in lG-18 hrs. (12 hrs. at sea); Yls. or lis. From Harwich to Hoek van Holland and Rotterdam, daily, in 8-9 hra. ; railway from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs. (fares 135. '6d., 5s. iVJid.); fare from London to Rotterdam, 29». or IBs. From London to Aintterdam, every Wed. and Sun., fares 23«., 15s. From London to Antwerp., thrice a week, in 17-20 hrs. (8-9 hrs. of which are on the open sea)-, 2is. or 16s. From Harwich to Antwerp., daily (Sundays excepted), in 12-13 hrs. (train from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs.) ^ 26s. or 15s. (from London). From Harwich to Hamburg, twice weekly (Wed. & Sat.; train from London in 2-3 hrs.); 22s. Qd., ils. 6d. (from London 27s. 6d., 25s. 9d., 20s.). From London to Bremerhaven, twice a week, in 86-40hrs.; 21. or il. From London to Hamburg, thrice a week, in 36-40 hrs.; 2l. 5s. or 1^ 9s. From Queenborougfi to Flushing, twice daily, in 8 hrs. (5 hrs. at sea); train from London to Queenborough in IV^hr., from Flushing to Amster- dam in 6-9 hrs.; through-fare 33s. tid. or 20s. lid. From Newhaven to Dieppe, twice daily, in 6-8 hrs.; 16s. or lis. 6d. (Rail from London to Newhaven, or vice vend, in 2-3 hrs; fares 13s. 9d. or lis. 3d., 10s. 6d. or 7s. lOd., and 4s. 8V-jrf.) From Southampton to Bremerhaven, by North German Lloyd Transat- lantic steamer (p. 3), in 25 hrs., twice weekly; fares 2l. 10s. or il. 10s. From Southampton to Cuxhaven, by Hamburg- American steamer (p. 3), in 23 hrs., fares Si. 10s. or 2l. 10s. From Southampton to Cherbourg, thrice a week, in 8-9 hrs. .fares 20s., 14s. From Southampton to St. Malo, thrice aweek,in 16-18 hrs., fares 23s., 17.t. Steamers also sail regularly from Hull to Norway, Sweden, Denmark, etc.; from Qrimsby to Hamburg, Denmark, etc.; from Leith to Norway, Hamburg, etc. See the advertisements in Bradshaw''s Railway Guide. On the longer voyages (10 hrs. and upwards), or when special attention has been required, the steward expects a gratuity of Is. or more, according to circumstances. Food and liquors are supplied on board all the steam- boats at fixed charges, but the viands are often not very inviting. Arrival. Tlioae who arrive in London ty water have sometimes to land in small boats. The tariff is 6d. for each person, and 3d. for each trunk. The traveller should take eare to select one of the watermen who wear a hadge , as they alone are hound by the tariff. Cabs (see p. IT) are in waiting at most of the railway-stations, and also at the landing-stages. The stranger had better let the porter at his hotel pay the fare in order to prevent an overcharge. At the more important stations Private Omnibuses , holding 6-10 persons, may be procured on previous application to the Railway Co. (fare Is. per mile, with a minimum of 3s. or 4«.). 3. Hotels. Boarding Houses. Private Lodgings. Hotels. Charges for rooms in the London hotels vary according to the situation and the floor. A difference is also made between a simple Bed Room and a bedroom fitted up like a Sitting Room, with writing-table, sofa, easy-chairs, etc., a higher charge being, of course, made for the latter. Most of the rooms, even in the smaller hotels, are comfortably furnished. The continental custom of locking the bedroom door on leaving it is not usual , but visitors should make their door secure at night, even in the best houses. Private sit- ting-rooms are generally expensive. The dining-room is called the 6 3. HOTELS. Coffee Room. In some hotels the day of departure is charged for, unless the rooms are given up by noon. Breakfast is generally taken in the hotel, the continental habit of breakfasting at a cafe being almost unknown in England. The meal consists of tea or coffee -with meat , fish , and eggs , and is charged for by tariff. Tea or coffee with bread and butter alone is, of course, cheaper. A fixed charge per day is also made for attendance, beyond which no gratuity need be given. It is, however, usual to give the 'boots' (^e. boot-cleaner and errand man) a small fee on leaving, and the waiter who has specially attended to the traveller also ex- pects a shilling or two. — In most hotels smoking is prohibited except in the Smoking Rooms provided for the purpose. — An assortment of English newspapers is provided at every hotel, but foreign journals are rarely met with. The ordinary charges at London hotels are as follows : — Bed- room 3-lOs., Sitting-room 5-20s., Attendance Is. 6d., Breakfast l-4s., Dinner 2s. 6d. -10s. Lights (i.e. candles or gas) are seldom charged for. Persons who make a prolonged stay at a hotel are recom- mended to ask for their bills every two or three days to prevent mistakes, whether accidental or designed. Numerous as the London hotels are, it is often difficult to procure rooms in the Season, and it is therefore advisable to apply in advance by letter or telegram. The large Terminus Hotels, which have sprung up of late years at the different railway-stations, and which belong to com- panies, are handsomely fitted up, and have a fixed scale of charges. Rooms may be obtained in them at rates to suit almost every purse. They are, however, more suitable for passing travellers, who wish to catch an early train, than for those making a prolonged stay in London. The following are the chief station hotels : — Great Western Hotel, Paddington Station, — Euston Hotel, Euston Square Station. — Great Northern Railway Hotel, King's Cross Station. — Cannon Street Hotel , Cannon Street Station. — Midland Grand Hotel, St. Pancras Station, Euston Road. — Great Eastern Hotel, Liverpool Street Station. — Charing Cross Hotel, Charing Cross Station. — Grosvenor Hotel, Victoria Station, Pim- lico. — Holborn Viaduct Hotel, Holborn Viaduct Station. Other extensive hotels belonging to companies are : — Savoy Hotel, Victoria Embankment (p. 116) and Beaufort Build- ings, Strand, with restaurant. — Grand Hotel , Charing Cross , on the site of Northumberland House (p. 151). — Hotel Metropole, Northumberland Avenue, elaborately fitted up ; table-d'hote break- fast 3s. 6d., plain breakfast 2s., lunch 28. -3s. 6d., table d'hote dinner (6-8.30) 58., R. from 3s. 6d., A. Is. Qd. — Hotel Victoria, Northum- berland Avenue, in a similar palatial style. — Alexandra Hotel, 16-21 St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner. — Langham Hotel, Port- land Place, a great American resort. — Buckingham Palace Hotel, 3. HOTELS. i Buckingham Palace Gate. — Westminster Palace Hotel, Yictoridi Street, Westminster. — Hotel Windsor , Victoria Street , Westminster. — Jnns of Court Hotel , High Holborn , grand entrance from Lincoln's Inn Fields. — First Avenue Hotel, High Holborn, lighted through- out with the electric light ('pension' 15-258. per day). Some of the first-class hotels at the West End only receive trav- ellers when the rooms have been ordered beforehand , or when the visitors are provided with an introduction, Claridge's Hotel, 49-55 Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, long con- sidered the first hotel in London, and patronised chiefly by royalty, ambassadors, and the nobility, is very expensive. — Other well- conducted hotels of a similar character are the Albemarle, 1 Albe- marle Street; the York, 9-11 Albemarle Street; Buckland's, 43 Brook Street. At the W. end of Oxford Street , in Hyde Park Place , near the Marble Arch (p. 271), is the Hyde Park Hotel. In or near Piccadilly: — Berkeley Hotel, 77 Piccadilly and 1 Ber- keley Street. — Bath Hotel, 25 Arlington Street. — In Dover Street : Brown's Hotel (No. 21) ; Cowan's Hotel (No. 26) ; Batt's (No. 41) ; Holloway's (Nos. 47, 48). — Sackville Hotel, 28 Sackville Street. In Jermyn Street, Piccadilly : — British Hotel (No. 82) ; Water- loo Hotel (^o. 85); Brunswick Hotel (JSos. 52, 53); Cox's Hotel (No. 55); Rawlings's (Nos. 37, 38); Cavendish (No. 81). Park Hotel, 10 Park Place, St, James's Street, is a comfortable family house. In or near Bond Street: — Long's Hotel, 15 New Bond Street; Almond's Hotel , 6 Clifford Street ; Burlington , 19 and 20 Cork Street; Coburg Hotel, 14 Carlos Place, Grosvenor Square; Thomas's Hotel, 25 Berkeley Square ; Bristol Hotel, Burlington Gardens. In or near Regent Street : — Hotel Continental, 1 Regent Street ; Marshall Thompson's Hotel, 28 Cavendish Square ; Ford's Hotel, 14 Manchester Street, Manchester Square; Limmer's Hotel, 2 George Street, Hanover Square. — Portland Hotel, 95-99 Great Portland Street, Portland Place. In or near Kensington : — Queen's Gate Hotel, 98 Queen's Gate, near Hyde Park. — South Kensington Hotel, Queen's Gate Terrace. — Cadog an Hotel, 75 Sloane Street, Cadogan Place, near Hyde Park. — Bailey's Hotel. Gloucester Road Station, S.W. — Norris's Hotel, 48-53 Russell Road, Kensington , facing Addison Road Station. — Royal Palace Hotel, High St., Kensington, new. All these West End hotels are good in ev#ry respect, but their terms are high: Bedroom 3s. 6d.-10s. , Breakfast 3-4s., Dinner 5-1 Os., Attendance 1.?, Qd. — Charges for the best rooms are equally high at the terminus hotels, but the attendance is inferior. Hotels in the City : — De Keyser's Royal Hotel, Victoria Embankment, Blackfriars, conducted in the continental fashion , is well situated ; R, and A. 8 3. HOTELS. 5s. and upwards, B. 2-3s., table d'hote (at 6 p.m.) 4s., 'pension' 12-20s. Foreign newspapers provided. — Castle and Falcon, 5 Aldersgate Street, near St. Martin's le Grand (General Post Office J, R. & A. 3s. 6d., B. 2s., D. 38. 6d. — Manchester Hotel, 136-145 Aldersgate Street and Long Lane. — The Albion, 172 Aldersgate Street. — City of London, 11 Bishopsgate Street Within. — Metro- politan Hotel, South Place , Moorgate St. , near the Great Eastern Railway Station. — Seyd's Hotel, 39 Finsbury Square, R. &B. 4-5s. — Biickers Hotel, Christopher Street, Finsbury Square. In SouTHWARE and Lambeth, on the right bank of the Thames : — Bridge House Hotel , 4 Borough High Street , London Bridge. — Piggoti's Hotel, 166 Westminster Bridge Road. In or near Flbbt Strbbt : — Anderton's Hotel, 162 Fleet Street; Peelers Hotel, ill Fleet Street; Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. In or near Leicester Square, at the West End, a quarter much frequented by French visitors : — Hotel de Paris et de VEurope, Nos. 7 & 9 Leicester Square. — Monte Carlo Hotel , 2 Leicester Street, Leicester Square. — Challis's Royal Hotel, 59-64 Rupert Street, Coventry Street. — Weddes Hotel, 12 Greek Street, Soho Square. The stranger is cautioned against going to any unrecommended house near Leicester Square, as there are several houses of doubtful reputation in this locality. Near Covent Garden : — Hummums, and Tavistock Hotel (R., B., & A. 78. 6d.), both in the Piazza, Covent Garden, for gentlemen only. — Bedford Hotel , also in the Piazza , Covent Garden, com- fortable. — Covent Garden Hotel, corner of Covent Garden and South- ampton Street. — Mona Hotel, 13 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. In the Strand, a favourite neighbourhood for visitors : — Somerset Hotel (No. 162) ; HaxelVs Hotel (Nos. 369-375), ad- joining Exeter Hall. — Oolden Cross Hotel , 452 Strand, opposite the Charing Cross Hotel (p. 6). The streets leading from the Strand to the Thames contain a number of quiet family hotels, which afford comfortable acccom- modation at a moderate cost. Among these are the following : — Craven Hotel, 43-46 Craven Street (R. from 2s. 6d., board 10s. 6d.) ; Adelphi Hotel, 1-4 John Street, Adelphi; Caledonian Hotel, 10 Adelphi Terrace , with a good view of the Thames. — In Surrey Street : Lay's Hotel (Nos. 5, 6, 8, and 9) ; Royal Surrey Hotel (Nos. 14-18); Norfolk (^0. 30); Bunyard's Private Hotel (No. 31). — In Norfolk Street : Slaughters Private Hotel (Nos. 16) ; Bunyard's Private Hotel (No. 10); Kent's (No. 32); Bond's (No. 30; private). — In Arundel Street : Arundel Hotel (No. 19 ; R., B., & A. from 6s. , 'pension' from 8s. 6d.) , pleasantly situated on the Embank- ment; Temple Hotel (No. 28; frequented by Swedes and Germans). Near Trafalgar Square : — Morley's Hotel, Trafalgar Square, pleasantly situated, and much frequented by Americans. — The 3. HOTELS. 9 Grand Hotel, tlie Hotel Metropole, and the Hotel Victoria have been already mentioned at p. 6. — Previtalis Hotel, 13-19 Arundell Street, Haymarket. In Tottenham Court Road : The Horseshoe (No. 264) and the Bedford Head (No. 235 ; moderate), two commercial houses, suited for gentlemen. In Bloomsbuby, near the British Museum : Burros Private Hotel, 10 Queen Square (R. 2s. 6d. , 'pension' in winter 6-7s., in summer 8s.) ; Bedford, 93 Southampton Row. On the N. side of Holborn, near the Farringdon Street Me- tropolitan Station, and a few hundred paces from St. Paul's : — Ridler's (No. 133), Wood's, in Furnival's Inn (very quiet; good wine). First Avenue Hotel, see p. 7. — On the Holborn Viaduct, the imperial Hotel, and the Holborn Viaduct Hotel. — A little to the N. of this point, quietly situated in Charterhouse Square, are Cocker's Hotel (No. 19) and Brunswick Private Hotel (No. 14). The following is a small selection of the best-known Temper- ance Hotels in London : — West Central Hotel, 97-105 Southampton Row, Russell Square (R. from Is. 6d. , 'pension' 6s. 8ci.) ; Devonshire, 12 Bishopsgate Without; Armfield' s South Place Hotel, South Place, Finsbury (R. & A. from 2s. 9d.); Lmy's, South Street, Finsbury; Waverley,S7 King St., Cheapside, E.G.; Wild's, 30-40 Ludgate Hill ; Tranters, 7 Bridgewater Square, Barbican, E. C. (R. from Is. 6d., R. & board 5s. 6d.). Boarding Houses. The visitor will generally find it more economical to live in a Boarding House than at a hotel. For a sum of 30-40s. per week or upwards he will receive lodging, breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and tea, taking his meals and sharing the sitting- rooms with the other guests. This arrangement , however , is more suitable for persons making a prolonged sojourn in London than for those who merely intend to devote two or three weeks to seeing the lions of the English metropolis. To a visitor of the latter class the long distances between the different sights of London make it expe- dient that he should not have to return for dinner to a particular part of the town at a fixed hour. This independence of action is secured, more cheaply than at a hotel, by taking — Private Apartments, which may be hired by the week in any part of London. Notices of 'Apartments', or ' Furnished Apartments\ are generally placed in the windows of houses where there are rooms to be let in this manner, but it is safer to apply to the nearest house-agent. Rooms in the house of a respectable private family may often be obtained by advertisement or otherwise, and are gener- rally much more comfortable than the professed lodging-houses. The dearest apartments, as well as the dearest hotels , are at the West End, where the charges vary from 2l. to ibl. a week. The best are in the streets leading from Piccadilly — Dover Street , Half 10 3. PRIVATE APARTMENTS. Moon Street, Clarges Street, Duke Street, and Sackville Street, — and in those leading out of St. James's Street, such as Jermyn Street, Bury Street, and King Street. Good, hut less expensive lodgings may also he ohtained in the less central parts of the West End, and in the streets diverging from Oxford Street and the Strand. In Bloomshury (near the British Museum) the average charge for one room is 15-21s. per week, and breakfast is provided for Is. a day. Fire and light are usually extras, sometimes also boot-cleaning and washing of bed-linen. It is advisable to have a clear under- standing on all these points. Still cheaper apartments, varying in rent according to the amenity of their situation and their distance from the centres of business and pleasure, may be obtained in the suburbs. The traveller who desires to be very moderate in his ex- penditure may even procure a bedroom and the use of a breakfast- parlour for 10s, a week. The preparation of plain meals is generally understood to be included in the charge for lodgings, but the sight- seer will probably require nothing but breakfast and tea in his rooms, taking luncheon and dinner at one of the pastrycooks' shops, oyster-rooms, or restaurants with which London abounds. Though attendance is generally included in the weekly charge for board and lodging, the servants expect a small weekly gra- tuity, proportionate to the trouble given them. Money and valuables should be securely locked up in the visitor's own trunk, as the drawers and presses of hotels and boarding-houses are frequently by no means inviolable receptacles. Large sums of money and objects of great value, however, had better be entrusted to the keeping of the landlord of the house, if a person of known respectability, or to a banker in exchange for a receipt. It is hardly necessary to point out that it would be unwise to make such a deposit with the landlord of pri- vate apartments or boarding-houses, which have not been specially recom- mended. 4. Restaurants. Dining Booms. Oyster Shops. Confectioners. English cookery, which is as inordinately praised by some epi- cures and bans vivants as it is abused by others, has at least the merit of simplicity, so that the quality of the food one is eating is not so apt to be disguised as it is on the Continent. Meat and fish of every kind are generally excellent in quality at all the better restaurants, but the visitor accustomed to continental fare may discern a falling off in the soups, vegetables, and sweet dishes. At the first-class restaurants the cuisine is generally French ; the charges are high, but everything is sure to be good of its kind. At the smaller restaurants it is usual to find out from the waiter what dishes are to be had, and to order accordingly. The dinner hour at the best restaurants is 4-8 p. m., after which some of them are closed. At less pretentious establishments dinner 'from the joinf is obtainable from 12 or 1 to 5 or 6 p.m. Beer, on draught or in bottle, is supplied at almost all the restaurants, and is the beverage 4. RESTAURANTS. 11 most frequently drunk. The Grill Rooms are devoted to chops, steaks, and other dishes cooked on a gridiron. Dinner from the Joint is a plain meal of meat, potatoes, vegetaliles, and cheese. At many of the following restaurants, particularly those in the City, there are luncheon-1»ars, where from 11 to 3 a chop or small plate of hot meat with bread and vegetables may be obtained for 6-8d. Customers usually take these 'snacks' standing at the bar. In dining it la carte at any of the foreign restaurants one portion will often be found sufficient for two persons. Good wine in England is expensive. Claret (Bordeaux) is most frequent- ly drunk, but Port, Sherry, and Eock (a corruption of Hochheimer, used as a generic term for Rhenish wines) may also be obtained at most of the restaurants. Seme of the Italian restaurants have good Italian wines. The traveller's thirst can at all times be conveniently quenched at a Public Mouse, where a glass of bitter beer, ale, stout, or 'half-and-half (i. e. ale or beer, and stout or porter, mixed) is to be had for V/2-2d. (6d. or ?:d. per quart). Good German Lager Bier (3-Qd. per glass) is now very generally obtainable at the larger restaurants, in some of which it has almost entirely supplanted the heavier English ales. Wine (not recom- mended) may also be obtained. Genuine Munich Beer from the cask may be obtained at the Gamlrimis Restaurants, 3 Glasshouse Street, Piccadilly Circus, and 13 Basinghall Street, City; also German sausages, smoked eel, and similar 'whets'. English-made Lager-beer is supplied in an establish- ment in the basement of the Cafe Monico, Piccadilly Circus, fitted up in the 'old German' style, and in the Tottenham Lager Beer Hall, 395 Strand. Many of the more important streets also contain Wi?ie-stores or '■Bodegas", where a good glass of wine may be obtained for 2~Qd.^ a pint of Hock or Claret for 8d.-is. Gd., and so on, and a few taverns (such as Short''s, 333 Strand) have acquired a special reputation for their wines. Bestaurants at the West End. In and near the Strand : — Adelphi Restaurant (Gatti)^ at the Adelphi Theatre, 410 Strand. *Simpson's Dining Rooms, in the busiest part of the Strand (Nos. 101-103); ladies' room upstairs; dinner d. la carte. Imperial Cafe-Restaurant (Gatti ^ Rodesano'), 166 Strand. * Gaiety Restaurant (Spiers 8f Pond), at the Gaiety Theatre, 343 and 344 Strand; table d'hote from 5.30 till 8p.m., 3s. Qd. Tivoli Grand Restaurant, 65 Strand, adjoining the Tivoli Music Hall (German beer). The Courts Restaurant, 222 Strand, opposite the Law Courts. Romano's Cafe- Restaurant, 399 Strand (French). * Gatti' s Restaurant and Cafe, 436 Strand, with another entrance in Adelaide Street, and a third in King William Street. * Grand Hotel, Charing Cross (see p. 6) ; table d'hote at 6 p.m. 5s. ; also buffet and grill-room. — Ship Restaurant, 45 Charing Cross. Old Drury Tavern, 50 Catherine Street, near Drury Lane Theatre (p. 40). The Albion, 26 Russell Street, opposite Drury Lane Theatre, fre- quented by actors and authors (not by ladies) ; dinner from the joint. In and near Leicestee SauABE : — Hotel de Paris, 7 & 9 Leicester Square. The Cavour, 20 Leicester Square, hotel and cafe, French cuisine and attendance ; table d'hote from 6 to 9, 3s. 12 4. RESTAURANTS. *Kettners Restaurant du Pavilion^ French house, 28-31 Church Street, Soho (somewhat expensive). Wedde, 12 Greek Street, Soho; Hotel d'ltalie, 52 Old Compton St., Soho, Italian houses [table d'hote 2s. 6d.). Hotel de Solferino, 7 & 8 Rupert Street ; Hotel de Florence, bl Rupert Street, Italian house (table d'hote 3«., lunch Is. 6d.). There are many cheap and good foreign restaurants in Soho. Near Pall Mall : — Epitaux, 9 Haymarket. — Willis''s, King Street, St. James's. In Piccadilly, Regent Street, and the vicinity : — The Criterion (Spiers and Pond), Regent Circus, Piccadilly, spa- cious, sumptuously fitted up, and adorned with tasteful decorative paintings by eminent artists; theatre, see p. 41. — Table d'hote from 5. 30 to 8 p.m. 38. 6d., attendance 3rf., accompanied by glees and songs performed by a choir of men and boys ; dinner from the joint 2s. Qd. Grill-room, caf^ and American bar, etc. Piccadilly Restaurant, in the building of the Pavilion Music Hall. *Monico^s, 19 Shaftesbury Avenue, handsomely fitted up, with re- staurant, grill-room, cafe, luncheon bar, and concert room (seep. 4")). Hotel Previtali, 14-18 Arundell Street (p. 9j, with table d'hote. Berkeley Hotel, 77 Piccadilly. *Bellamy's Dining Rooms , 2 Piccadilly Place , Piccadilly, op- posite St. James's Church, moderate. *The Burlington (Blanchard's), 169 Regent Street, corner of New Burlington Street ; dinners on first and second floors, ground- floor reserved for luncheons. Ladies' rooms. Dinners at 5s., 7s. 6d., and 10s. 6d. ; also h la carte. Formaggia, 109 Regent Street. *St. James's Hall Restaurant, 69-71 Regent Street, and 25, 26, and 28 Piccadilly. Ladies' rooms and grill-room. Concert dinner, with lady orchestra, 4s. 6d. *Kuhn, 21 Hanover Street, cafe downstairs, restaurant upstairs, expensive. *Verrey, 229 Regent Street, French cuisine, somewhat high charges (bouillabaisse to order). * Grand Cafe Royal, 68 Regent Street; French dinner 5s. The table d'hote at the Hotel Continental , 1 Regent Street , is good but high-piiced (7s. 6d.); dejeuner from 12 to 3 p.m. 4s. *Blanchard's Restaurant, 1-7 Beak Street, Regent Street (ladies not after 5p.m.^; dinner 3s. 6d. ; d, la carte, dearer. Good wines. Waymont's Parisian Restaurant, 188 Regent Street. In and near Oxfokd Street and Holborn : — *The Pamphilon, 17 Argyll Street, Oxford Street, near Regent Circus, with ladies' rooms; unpretending, moderate charges. Pagani, 48 Great Portland Street. Circus Restaurant, 213 New Oxford Street, near Regent Circus ; 4. RESTAURANTS. 13 Star and Garter (Pecorini) ^ 98 New Oxford Street. — Buszard (pastry-cook), 197 Oxford Street (recommended for ladies). *Frascati, 32 Oxford Street, a large and handsome establishment with winter garden, cafe', and numerous billiard-tables. Dorothy Restaurant (for ladies only), 448 Oxford Street. The Radnor, 73 Chancery Lane and 311-312 High Holborn. The Horseshoe , 264-267 Tottenham Court Road , not far from the British Museum, luncheon-bar, grill-room, and dining-rooms; table d'hote 5.30 to 8.30 p.m., 2^. 6d. Inns of Court Restaurant, in Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side. *The Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, an extensive and elaborately adorned establishment, with grill-room, luncheon buffets, etc. ; table d'hote at separate tables in the Grand Salon from 5.30 to 9 p.m., with music, 3s. 6d. *Grays Inn Tavern, 19 High Holborn, near Chancery Lane. Spiers and Pond's Buffet, Holborn Viaduct Station. Table d'hote at the First Avenue Hotel (p. 7) from 5.30 to 8.30 p.m., 58; also restaurant, grill-room, and luncheon-buffet. *Veglio, 314 Euston Road, near the end of Tottenham Court Road (moderate). In the City. In Flebt Street : — The Cock, 22 Fleet Street (chops, steaks, kidneys; good stout); with the fittings of the famous Old Cock Tavern, pulled down in 1886. *The Rainbow, 15 Fleet Street (good wines) ; dinner from the joint, chops, steaks, etc. Old Cheshire Cheese, 16 Wine Office Court, Fleet Street (steak and chop house ; beefsteak puddings on Saturdays). Here is pre- served Dr. Johnson's chair. Near St. Paul's : — Spiers and Pond's Restaurant , Ludgate Hill Station. Salutation Tavern, 17 Newgate Street (fish). Grand Restaurant de Paris, 74 Ludgate Hill, table d'hote from 5 to 9, with 1/2 bottle of claret, 3s. 6d. Near the Bank : — The Palmerston, 34 Old Broad Street. — * Auction-Mart (Spiers 6 Pond), Tokenhouse Yard, Lothbury. — Charley s Fish Shop (snacks of fish), 20 Coleman St. In Cheapside : — Lake and Turner (No. 49) and Read's (No. 94), good houses, with moderate charges ; Cyprus Restaurant (Nos. 1 and 2), a temperance house; Queen Anne (No. 27); Sweeting's (No. 158; fish). In Gresham Street : — New Gresham Dining-Rooms (No. 58) ; The Castle (No. 40) ; Guildhall Tavern (Nos. 81-83). City Restaurant, 34 Milk Street (table d'hote 12-3, Is. 3f/.). 14 4. RESTAURANTS. In the Poultry : — *Pimrns (Nos. 3, 4, 5). InBucklersbury, near tlie Mansion House : ^ReicherVs [Bargtn^s; No. 4); Ye Gresham (No. 21"), moderate. Spiers and Pond's Buffet. Mansion House (Metropolitan) Station. The Bay Tree, 33 St. Swithin's Lane. — WindmiU, 151 Cannon Street. In Gracechurcli Street : The Grasshopper (No. 13) ; Half Moon (No. 88); Woolpack (No. 4, and 6 St. Peter's Alley). *London Tavern, formerly King's Head, 53 Fenchurch Street. Queen Elizabeth here took her first meal after her liberation from the Tower. *Crosby Hall (p. 107), Bishopsgate Street (waitresses). These last two are very handsomely fitted up and contain smoking and chess rooms. Ye Olde Four Swans, 82 Bishopsgate Street Within. Three Nuns, adjoining Aldgate Metropolitan Station. Ship and Turtle, 129Leadenhall Street, noted for its turtle; The Tip Tree, Leadenhall St. Bargen, 38 and 48 Coleman Street. Herrmann ^- Birkenfeld, 41 and 42 London Wall. In or near Cornhill : — Birch's (Ring ^' Brymer), 15 Cornhill, the principal purveyors to civic feasts; Baker's, 1 Change Alley, Cornhill, Thomas's, and Simpsons' s, both in Maidenhead Court, Aldersgate Street, are three well-known Chop-houses in the City. White Hart Inn, 63 Borough High Street, Southwark, described by Dickens in 'Pickwick'. Waiters in restaurants expect a gratuity of about Id. for every shilling of the bill, but Qd. per person is the most that need ever be given. If a charge is made in the bill for attendance the visitor is not bound to give anything additional , though even in this case it is customary to give the waiter a trifle for himself. Among the chief Vegetarian Restaurants in London are the Orange Grove^ St. Martin's Lane, W.C. ; Wheatsheaf, 13 Rathbone Place , Oxford Street ; Queen Victoria, 303 Strand ; Bouverie, 63 Fleet Street; Forster ^ Hazell, 8 Queen St., Cheapside ; Apple- Tree, Cheapside. Oyster Shops. *Scott (Edwin), 18 Coventry Street, exactly opposite the Hay- market (also steaks); Blue Posts, 14 Rupert Street (American special- ties, clams, etc.; also grill); these two in the evening for gentlemen only; *Rule, 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden; Smith, 357 Strand; Pimm, 3 Poultry, City; Lynn, 70 Fleet Street, City; *Lightfoot, 3 Ar- thur Street East, 22 Lime Street, 39 Old Change, all three in the City. The charge for a dozen oysters is usually from 2s. to 4*. Qd., accord- ing to the season and the rank of the house. Small lobster is. 6d. ; larger lobster 2s. (id. and upwards. Snacks of fish 2-6d. Oysters, like pork, are out of season in the month that have no B. in their name, ». e. those of summer. 5. CAF^S. 15 Confectioners. Petrzywalski , 62 Regent Street, good Vienna pastry and ices ; Charbonnel ^ Walker^ 173 New Bond Street; Bonthron, 106 Regent Street; Duclos, 178, Blatchley, 167, Buszard, 197 , all in Oxford Street ; Fuller, 206 Regent Street, 368 Strand, and 131 Queen's Road, Bayswater (American confectionery) ; Beadell, 8 Vere Street ; Gun- ter ^ Co., 7 Berkeley Square, good ices; Wolff, 7 Newgate Street. 5. Cafes. Billiard Rooms. Chess. At the West End. Simpson s Cigar Divan, 101-103 Strand, second floor, cafe for gentlemen, containing a large selection of English and foreign newspapers (see p. 16), and a favourite resort of lovers of chess (admission 6d., or, including cigar and cup of coffee, Is.). Qatti's Cafe, 436 Strand, good ices (also a restaurant, p. 11); Carlo Gatti, Villiers Street, Strand ; Grand Cafe Royal, 68 Regent Street (restaurant, p. 12); *KUhn, 21 Hanover Street , Regent Street (re- staurant, p. 12); Verrey, corner of Regent Street and Hanover Street , noted for ices (restaurant, p. 12) ; R. Gunter, 23 Motcomb Street and 15 Lowndes Street, Belgrave Square ; Gentlemen's Cafe, Criterion (p. 12); Monico, 19 Shaftesbury Ave-nue (p. 12); Fras- cati, 32 Oxford St. (restaurant, p. 13); *Vienna Cafe, corner of Oxford Street and Hart Street, near the British Museum. In the City. Peele's , ill Fleet Street ; Brown, 16 Ludgate Hill ; Cafe de Paris, Ludgate Hill; Holt, 63 St. Paul's Churchyard; Stephen, 51 Cheapside. The shops of Ye Mecca Company, in the City, are much frequented in the afternoon for coffee. The People's Cafe Company , the Coffee Palace Company, Lock- hart's Cocoa Rooms, and others of a similar kind, have established a large number of cheap cafes in all parts of London. Many of these contain first-class rooms (at increased charges) and rooms for ladies. The shops of the Aerated Bread Company and the Golden Grain Company are also much frequented for tea, coffee, etc. Billiard Rooms. ^Horseshoe', 264-267 Tottenham Court Road ; Frascati, see above; jBo6er<s, 99 Regent Street; Stradwick, 182 Fleet Street; Carlo Gatti, Villiers Street ; Veglio, Euston Road ; Monico, 15 Tichborne Street ; Yardley (Kettle), 6-10 Burleigh Street, Strand ; Princes' Hall, Picca- dilly (p. 45). The usual charge is Is. per hour (Is. 6d. by gas-light), or 6d. per game of fifty. Chess. Simpson s Divan, 101 Strand (see above) and Gatti' s Cafe, 436 Strand (see above) are favourite resorts of chess-players; though the 16 6. READING ROOMS. game is also played in many other caf^s. London contains numerous first-class chess-cluts, the chief being the City of London Chess Club, 22 King Street, Cheapside; the British Chess Club, 37 King Street, Covent Garden ; and the St. George's, 63 St. James's Street. 6. Eeading Eooms. Circulating Libraries, Newspapers. Reading Eooms. Besides Simpson's Cigar Divan (p. 15), the following reading-rooms, most of which are supplied with English and foreign newspapers , may he mentioned : American Traveller Office, 4 Langham Place, Regent Street; Gillig's United States Exchange , 9 Strand , also with American newspapers (48. per week , Ss. per month , or 3l. per annum) ; American Register Office, 446 Strand; Colonial Institute, Northumberland Avenue (subs. 1-2 guineas per annum ; comp. p. 74) ; Ouildhall Free Li- brary ; English and Foreign , 39 Lombard Street ; Temple News Rooms (adm. Id.), 172 Fleet Street; Central News Agency, 5 New Bridge Street, Ludgate Circus (adm. 2d.); City News Rooms, Lud- gate Circus Buildings ; City Central News Rooms, 1 Philpot Lane, Fenchurch Street, E. C. (adm. id.); Commissioners of Patents Li- brary, 25 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane ; Deacon's, 154 Leadenhall Street ; Street's Colonial ^ General Newspaper Offices, 30 Cornhill and 5 Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn; Brown, Gould ^'- Co., 54 New Oxford Street (adm. 2d.). Free Libraries. The various free public libraries, opened in different parts of London, most of which have a newspaper-room, are also, of course, open to visitors. Among these are St. Martin's Free Library, St. Martin's Lane ; St. Pancras Free Library, 29 Camden St. 5 Westminster Free Library ; Clerkenwell Free Library; Peckham Free Library, etc. Circulating Libraries. Mudie's Select Library (Limited), 30- 34 New Oxford Street, a gigantic establishment possessing hundreds of thousands of volumes (minimum quarterly subscription, 7s.) ; branches at 241 Brompton Road and 48 Queen Victoria Street, E.G.; W. H. Smith ^' Son, 183 Strand, branch at 1 Arundel St., W.C. ; London Library, 14 St. James's Square, with nearly 100,000 vols, (annual subs. 3l., introduction by a member necessary); Rolandi, 20 Berners Street, Oxford Street, for foreign books (monthly subs. 48. 6d., yearly 2l. 28.); Cawthorne, Cockspur St.; Mitchell's Royal Library Limited, 33 Old Bond St., 5 Leadenhall St., and 7 Palmer- ston Buildings, Old Broad St., E.C, ; Grosvenor Gallery Library, 137 New Bond St. ; Haas ^ Nutt, Great Portland St. Among the principal public libraries in London are the following. British Museum Library , see p. 266 \ Sion College Library, on the Thames Embankment, 66,000 vols., the most valuable theological library in London, containing portraits of Laud and other bishops ; Dr. Williams^ Library., T^niversity Hall, Gordon Square, with 40,000 vols., containing a large col- lection of Puritan theology and fine portraits of Baxter and other divines ; London Institution Library., Finsbury Circus , with 100,000 vols. •, Lambeth Palace Library, p. 310; Allan Library, We.sleyan Conference Office, 2 Castle 6. NEWSPAPERS. 17 St., Finsburv, with a fine collection of Bibles and theological works (p. 100); Guildhall Library, p. 102; Patent Office Library, 110,000 vols., 25 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, especially rich in scientific jour- nals and transactions of learned societies. Newspapers. Nearly 500 newspapers are published In London and its environs. The principal morning papers are the Times {3d.'), in political opinion nominally independent of party (print- ing-office, see p. 118); then the Daily News (id.; a leading Liberal journal), Daily Telegraph (Id.), Standard [id. ; a strong Conservative organ), Morning Post (id.; organ of the court and aristocracy) , Morning Advertiser (Sd. ; the organ of the licensed victuallers), and Daily Chronicle (Id.; Radical). TliQ Daily Gra- phic (id.) is illustrated. The leading evening papers are the Pall Mall Gazette (id.), the St. James's Gazette (id.), the Westminster Gazette (id.), Evening Standard (id.), Globe (id. -^ the oldest even- ing paper, dating from 1803), Star (72^0? "^^^ (V2^0j Evening News ^ Post (7*2^.) , and Echo (}/2d.). All of these are sold at the principal railway - stations, at newsmen's shops , and in the streets by newsboys. The oldest paper in the country is the London Gazette, the organ of the Government, established in 1642 and published twice weekly. The City Press contains city and antiqua- rian notices. Among the favourite weekly journals are the comic pa- per Punch (3d.) ; the illustrated papers, Illustrated London News, Graphic, Black and White, Ladys Pictorial, Sporting and Dramatic News , and Queen (for ladies) ; and the superior literary journals and reviews. Athenaeum, Academy, Spectator, Speaker, and Satur- day Review. The Weekly Dispatch , the Observer (^d.) , Lloyd's, Reynolds', the Sunday Times, the Weekly Sun, and the Referee (a sporting and theatrical organ) are Sunday papers. The Field (weekly; Qd.) is the principal journal of field-sports and other subjects interesting to the 'country gentleman''; and next is Land and Water, also weekly. The Sportsman and the Sporting Times are the chief organs of the racing public, and the Era of the theatrical world. Science and Art Journals : Journal of the Society of Arts, Popular Science Review, Nature, Scientific News, Knowledge, The Electrician, Science and Art, Scientific and Literary Review, Chemical News, organ of the Inven- tors'" Institute. — Journals and Transactions of the Geological, Astronom- ical, and other learned societies. Commercial and Professional Journals (weekly) : The Economist (8d.), the leading commercial and financial authority; Agricultural Gazette; Board of Trade Journal; Farmer; Mark Lane Express, mainly relied upon for market prices; Engineer, Engineering, for mechanics, surveyors, and con- tractors; Builder, devoted to building, designs, sanitation, and domestic comfort; Architect; Colliery Guardian; Mining Journal; Gardeners'' Chro- nicle; Bullionist; Investors^ Guardian; Metropolitan, devoted to London local government; Railway News; Money Market Review. The Anglo-American Times (24 Basinghall Street ; 4d.) is a weekly Ame- rican paper, published in London. The following are the London offices of a few leading American papers : — New York Herald (London edition), 33 Cornhill; New York Tribune, 26 Bedford Street, W. C; New York Asso- ciated Press and Western Associated Press, St. Stephen's Chambers, Tele- graph St., E. C. ; American Press Association., 34 Throgmorton Street, E. C. and 153 Fleet Street; Boston Daily Herald, 446 Strand; Toronto Mail, 446 Strand ; Toronto Globe, 86 Fleet Street. Bakdbkek, London. 8th Edit. 2 18 7. Baths. (Those marked t are or include Turkish baths.) Hot and cold baths of various kinds may be obtained at the baths mentioned below at charges varying from 6d. upwards. The usual charge for a Turkish bath is 25. Qd. ; some establishments have re- duced charges in the evening. The Public Baths, which are plainly but comfortably fitted up, were instituted chiefly for the working classes, who can obtain cold baths here for as low a price as Id., from which the charges rise to Gd. or Qd. Most of these establish- ments include swimming baths. Many of the private baths have most elegant appointments. Albany Baths, 83 York Road, Westminster Bridge Road. t Argyll Baths^ 10a Argyll Place, Regent Street, and 5 New Broad Street, t BelFs Baths, 24 & 26 Basinghall Street, E.G. Bloomshury and St. Giles Baths (public), with swimming bath, Endell Street. i Charing Cross Baths, Northumberland Avenue. For ladies , in Noi-th- umberland Passage, Craven Street. Chelsea Swimming Baths, 171 King's Road, Chelsea. City of London Baths, 100-103 Golden Lane. Grown Swimming Baths^ Kennington Oval; 6(f. i EarVs Court Baths, EarPs Court. t Edgware Road Turkish Baths., 16 Harrow Road. Faulkner'' s Baths ^ 26 Villiers Street, by Charing Cross Station-, i 50 New- gate Street, E. C. •, 13 Pilgrim Street, E.C, close to Ludgate Hill Station; at Fenchurch Street Station. These establishments, with lavatories, hair- cutting rooms, etc, are convenient for travellers arriving by railway, t Ford's, 48'/2 Kensington High Street. Galvano-Electric Baths, 55 Marylebone Road, i Grosvenor Turkish Baths, 119 Buckingham Palace Road, t Haley's, 182 and 184 Euston Road. Hampstead Baths (public), 175 Finchley Road, N.W. t King's Cross Turkish Baths, 9 Caledonian Road, King's Cross. Lambeth Baths (public), 156 Westminster Bridge Road. i London and Provincial Turkish Baths ('The Hammam'), 76 Jermyn Street. Metropolitan Baths, with swimming bath, 89 Shepherdess Walk, City Road. Old Roman Bath (adjoining bath, see p. 144), 5 Strand Lane (famous for the coldness of its water). Paddington Baths (public). Queen's Road, Bayswater. Royal York Baths, 54 York Terrace, Regent's Park. St. George's Baths (public), 8 Davies Street, Berkeley Square, and 88 Buckingham Palace Road. St. James's Baths (public), 15-18 Marshall Street, Golden Square. St. Martin's Batht (public), Orange Street, Leicester Square. St. Marylebone Baths (public), 181 Marylebone Road. St. Pancras Baths (public), 70a King Street, Camden Town, i Savoy Turkish Baths, Savoy Street, Strand, i Terminus Turkish Baths, 19 Railway Approach, London Bridge, ■i- Turkish Baths, 23 Leicester Square. Wenlock Baths, with swimming bath, 20 Wenlock Road, City Road. Westminster Baths (public), 34 Great Smith Street, Westminster. 19 8. Shops, Bazaars, and Markets. The Co-operative System. Shops abound everywhere. In the business-quarters usually visited by strangers, it is rare to see a house without shops on the ground-floor. Prices are almost invariably fixed, so that bargaining is unnecessary. Some of the most attractive shops are in Regent Street, Oxford Street, Piccadilly, Bond Street, the Strand, Fleet Street, Cheapside, St. Paul's Churchyard, and Ludgate Hill. The following is a brief list of some of the best [and, in maiiy cases, the dearest) shops in London; it is, however, to be observed that other excellent shops abound in all parts of London, in many cases no whit inferior to those here mentioned. Besides shops con- taining the articles usually purchased by travellers for their personal use, or as presents, we mention a few of the large depots of famous English manufactures, such as cutlery, pottery, and water-colours. Ab-tists' CoLOUBMEN : — Ackermann, 191 Regent Street (water- colours) ; Nev)inan, 24 Soho Square; Rowney Sf Co., 64 Oxford Street and 190 Piccadilly ; Winsor ^ Newton, 37 Rathbone Place. BooKBiNDEBs : — Bedford, 9 Great Newport Street, W.C. ; Kelly, 7 Water Street, Strand; Riviere, 15 Heddon Street, Regent Street ; Zaehnsdorf, Shaftesbury Avenue, Cambridge Circus; Burn S' Co., 36 Kirby St. ; Bookbinders' Co-operative Society, 17 Bury Street, Bloomsbury. BooKSBLLBBs : — Hatchards, 187 Piccadilly ; Bumpus, 350 Ox- ford Street ; Butterworth ^' Co. (law books), 7 Fleet Street ; Stevens (law books), 119 Chancery Lane; Harrison ^' Sons, 59 Pall Mall; Griffith if Farran, Newbery House, Charing Cross Road ; Stott, 370 Oxford Street ; Stanford, 26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross (maps, etc.); Bain, 1 Haymarket; Bickers f Son, 1 Leicester Square; Gil- bert ^ Field, 67 Moorgate Street ; Stoneham, 79 & 129 Cheapside, 44 Lombard Street, 129 Fenchurch Street, 39 Walbrook, etc.; Sotheran f Co. , 37 Piccadilly and 136 Strand ; Wilson, 18 Grace- church Street; Dunn, 23 Ludgate Hill and 4a Cheapside; Cornish, 297 High Holborn; S. Hogg, 32 Charing Cross. — Fobeign Booksellers: Dulau f Co., 37 Soho Square; Williams ^ Nor- gate , 14 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden ; Hachette, 18 King Wil- liam Street, West Strand; Nutt , 270 Strand; Thimm, 24 Brook Street, Hanover Square; Kegan Paul Truhntr f Co., 20 Charing Cross Road; Rolandi, 20 Berners Street; Quaritch, 15 Piccadilly ; Roques, 64 New Bond Street; Siegle, 30 Lime Street ; Dorrell f Son, 15 Charing Cross; Luzac, 46 Great Russell Street. — Second- hand Booksellers : Quaritch (probably the most extensive buyer of rare books in the world), see above ; Toovey, 177 Piccadilly; Sotheran, see above; Reeve's (?- Turner, 196 Strand; Stevens, 39 Great Russell Street, W.C; Jones, 77 Queen Street, Cheapside; Pickering ^ Chatto, 66 Haymarket. 20 8. SHOPS. Carpets : — Gregory ij- Co., 212-216 Regent Street, and 44-46 King Street, Golden Square ; Hampton ^- Sons, 8-10 Pall Mall East ; Shoolbred ^' Co., 151-158 Tottenham Court Road, and 34-45 Grafton Street; Marshall (J- Snelgrove, 334-348 Oxford Street; Lapworth ^ Harrison, 22 Old Bond Street ; Cardinal ^ Harford (Turkish carpets), 108 and 109 High Holborn; Bontor ^ Co., 35 Old Bond Street ; Treloar, 68 Ludgate Hill. Chemists. Prichard, 10 Vigo Street, Regent Street ; Cooper, 66 Oxford Street; Squire .$^ Sons, 413 Oxford Street; Bell <$- Co., 225 Oxford Street ; Challice, 34Villiers Street, Strand; Corbyn,Stacey, ^ Co., 300 High Holborn, 86 New Bond Street, 7 Poultry, and 153 Leadenhall Street; Pond, 68 Fleet Street; iVarf/ien^' Co., 390 Strand; Savory ^ Moore, 143 New Bond Street; Thomas, 7 Upper St. Mar- tin's Lane (moderate prices). Messrs. Burroughs, Wellcome, d- Co., Manufacturing Chemists, Snow Hill Buildings, Holborn Viaduct, prepare portable drugs in tlie form of tabloids, which will be found exceedingly convenient by travellers. Their small and light pocket-cases contain a selection of the most useful re- medies in this form. These tabloid drugs may be obtained of all chemists. Cigars: — Cigar Divan, 102 Strand; Carreras, 7 Wardour Street; Fribourg^^ Treyer, 34Haymarket, and 3 Leadenhall Street; Ponder, 48 Strand; Marcovitch^' Co., 11 Air Street, Regent Street; Benson, 296 Oxford Street ; Benson ^' Hedges, 13 Old Bond Street ; Carlin, 145 Regent Str.; Wolff, Phillips, ^- Co., 289 Oxford Str. Cigars in London are rather an expensive luxury, as at least ^d. must be paid to obtain a really good one, while dd. is the lowest price that will secure a tolerable 'weed'. Fair Manilla cheroots, however, may be obtained for 2d. or 3d. Smoking is not so universal in England as in America or on the Continent, and is prohibited in many places where it is permitted in other countries. Cutlery : — Asprey ^ Son, 166 New Bond Street, and 22 Albe- marle Street ; Holtzapffel S^ Co., 64 Charing Cross, and 127 Long Acre; Lund, 56-57 Cornhill ; Mappin Brothers, 66 Cheapside and 220 Regent Street; Mappin ^ Webb, 158-162 Oxford Street and 18-22 Poultry; Verinder, 17a Ludgate Hill; Rodgers ^^ Sons, 4 Cullum Street, City, and 60 Holborn Viaduct ; Weiss ,$- Son, 287 Oxford Street. Travelling-bags , writing-cases, dispatch-boxes , etc., are also sold at most of these shops. Dentists : ~ G. H. Jones, 57 Great Russell Street ; Coffin (Ame- rican), 94 Cornwall Gardens; Pierrepoint (American), 22 Old Bur- lington Street, Bond Street; Eskell (American), 445 Strand; E. A. Jones, 129 Strand; Stone ^ Dominy, 35 St. Martin's Lane; Stent, 5 Coventry Street, Haymarket; Crucefix Canton, 40 St. Martin's Lane; B. L. Moseley, 312 Regent Street; Browning, 133 Oxford Street; Gabriel, 57 New Bond Street; Quarterman, 12 Glasshouse Street. Engravings: — Colnaghi ^ Co., 13 and 14 Pall Mall East; Graves, 6 Pall Mall; Boussod, Valadon, di' Co. (successors of Ooupil <J' Co.), 116 & 117 New Bond Street; R. Dodson, 147 8. SHOPS. 21 Strand; Maclean, 7 Haymarket and 5 St. James's Street; Lefevre^ 1a King Street. St. James's Square; Ackermann, 191 Regent Street; Leggatt, 62 Cheapside; Agnew ^' Son, 39b Old Bond Street. FxjKRiBRS : — Back, 241 Regent Street; International Fur Store, 163 and 198 Regent Street; Jeffs ^' Harris, 244 Regent Street; Swan ^' Edgar, 39-53 Regent's Quadrant; Marshall ^^ Snel- grove, 334-348, Nicholay, 170, Poland, 190, Peter Robinson, 216- 226, allln Oxford Street ; i^uss , 70 New Bond Street ; Cowri Fwr Stores, 352 Strand; Phillips, 52 Newgate Street. Glass and Pokcelain : — Phillips , 175 Oxford Street ; Cope- land (J' Sons, 12 Charterhouse Street ; Mortlock ^' 5ons, 18 Regent Street; Daniell 4^ Co., 129 New B^ond Street; Peliatt ^^ Co., 21 Northumberland Avenue ; Standish, 58 Baker Street ; Osier, 100 Ox- ford Street; Oreen, 107 Queen Victoria Street; Pearce, 39 Ludgate Hill ; Salviati, 213 Regent Street (mosaics). Gloves : — Dent, Allcroft, <J' Co. (celebrated firm, wholesale only ; Dent's gloves are obtainable at all the retail shops), 97-99 Wood Street; Wheeler, 16 Poultry and 8 Queen Victoria Street, City; Penberthy, 390 Oxford Street (French gloves). Also at all the haberdashers' and hosiers' shops. Goldsmiths and Jewellers : — Emanuel , 40 Old Bond Street; Gass ^- Co., 166 Regent Street; Howell, James, <?' Co., 5, 7, and 9 Regent Street; Garrard^- Co., 25 Haymarket; Lambert^' Co., 10-12 Coventry Street, Haymarket, Hancocks ^ Co., 38 and 39 Bruton Street and 152 New Bond Street; Hunt c^ Roskell, 156 New Bond Street; Streeter ($^ Co., 18 New Bond Street; Elkington ^ Co., 22 Regent Street and 42 Moorgate Street (electro-plate); Packer, 76 Regent Street; Mrs. Newman, 18 Clifford St., New Bond St. ; Goldsmiths' Alliance, 11 and 12 Cornhill; Watherston ^ Son, 12 Pall Mall East. Gun and Rifle Makers: — Westley Richards, Lancaster, 178 and 151 New Bond Street; Rigby c?' Co., 72 St. James's Street; Pur- dey , Audley House, South Audley Street; Henry, 31 Cockspur Street; Dow^aZi, 8 Bennet Street, St. James's Street; Grant, 67a St. James's Street; Colt's Fire Arms Company, 26 Glasshouse Street. Haberdashers: — Hitchcock ^ Co., 69-74 St. Paul's Church- yard; Lewis <f Allenby, 193-197 Regent Street; Marshall <^^ Snelgrove, 334-348 Oxford Street; Redmayne <$' Co., 19-20 New Bond Street; Russell 4^ Allen, 17-20 Old Bond Street; Shoolbred <$' Co., 151- 158 Tottenham Court Road, and 34-45 Grafton Street; Waterloo House and Swan ^- Edgar, 39-53 Quadrant, Regent Street, and 9-11 Piccadilly; Howell, James, <$- Co., 5 Regent Street; Peter Robin- son, 216-226 Oxford Street; Wallis <S^ Co., 7 Holborn Circus; Capper, 69, 70 Gracechurch Street, City; Liberty (Oriental fabrics), 142 & 218 Regent Street; Debenham 4- Freebody, 27-33 Wigmore Street, Cavendish Square; Whiteley , Westbourne Grove, Bays- water; Jay, mourning warehouse, 243-253 Regent Street; Scott 22 8. SHOPS. Adie, for Scotch goods, 115 Regent Street; Mrs. Washington Moon, 16 New Burlington Street (baby linen); Edmonds, Orr, ^^ Co., 47 "Wigmore Street (children) ; Swears ^^ Wells , Regent Street (chil- dren); Hamilton ^^ Co., 326 Regent Street; Co-operative Needle- women, 34 Brooke Street, Holborn. Hattees : — Lincoln ^ Bennett, 40 Piccadilly ; Heath, 107 Ox- ford Street; Cole, 156 Strand (clerical) ; Cater ^^ Co., 56 Pall Mall ; Christy §- Co., 35 Gracechurch Street, City; Woodrow^ 42 Corn- hill, City; Truept, 14 Old Bond Street and 20 Burlington Arcade. — Ladies' Hatters: — Mrs. Heath, 25 St. George's Place , Hyde Park Corner; Miss Lockwood, 36 South Audley Street; Colman, 172 Regent Street. Comp. Milliners. Hosiers and Shirtmakers: — Hamilton^ Co., 326 Regent Street; Poole ^^Lord, 322 Oxford Street ; Sampson ^' Co., 33 Queen Victoria Street, City. — Ladies' Hosiery, etc.: Balbriggan ^ Irish House, 192 Piccadilly. Lace and Ladies' Underclothing : — Steinmann, 185 Picca- dilly; Mrs. Addley-Bourne, 174 Sloane Street; Mme. White, Regent Street. Leather Goods (dressing-cases, dispatch-boxes, etc.): — Needs, 100 New Bond Street; Leuchars, 38 Piccadilly; Thornhill ^ Co., 144 New Bond Street. Comp, Cutlery. Map Sellers : — E. Stanford (agent for the Ordnance Survey Maps), 26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross; C. Smith ^^ Son^ 63 Charing Cross; Bacon ^- Co., 127 Strand; Wyld, 11 Charing Cross; Philip 4- Sons, 32 Fleet Street. Milliners: — Michard, 2 Hanover Square; Worth et Cie., 134 New Bond Street; Colman, 172 Regent Street; Elise, 170 Regent Street; Louise, 210 and 266 Regent St.; Pauline, 259 Regent St. Music-Sellers : — Boosey ^^ Co., 295 Regent Street ; Chappell ^ Co., 49-52 New Bond Street ; Cocks ^Co., 6 New Burlington Street ; Cramer <$^ Co., 199-209 Regent Street; Novello, Ewer, ^' Co., 1 Ber- ners Street, Oxford Street; Breitkopf <S^ Haertel, 151 Oxford Street; Hammond^ Co., 5 Vigo Street, Regent Street; Metzler tf- Co., 40-43 Great Marlborough Street; Augener , 86 Newgate Street; Keith if Prowse, 48 Cheapside, and Northumberland Avenue, Char- ing Cross. Opticians : — Elliott Brothers , 101 St. Martin's Lane ; Dall- mtyer, 25 Newman Street, W. ; Negretti # Zambra, 38 Holborn Via- duct, 45 Cornhill, and 122 Regent Street; Callaghan, 23a New Bond Street; Dollond <$• Co., 35 Ludgate Hill and 62 Old Broad Street, E.C. ; Cox, 98 Newgate Street. Perfumers : — Atkinson, 24 Old Bond Street ; Piesse ^' Luhin, 2 New Bond Street; Rimmel, 96 Strand, 180 Regent Street, and 64 Queen Victoria Street; Oattie <^' Peirce, 14 Old Bond Street; Brei- denhnch, 157 New I'.ond Street. Photograph-Skllers : — J. Gerson, 5 Rathbone Place (pho- 8. SHOPS. 23 tograplis of the pictures in tlie National Gallery, etc.) ; Autotype Fine Art Gallery, 74 New Oxford Street ; Mansell , 271-273 Ox- ford Street; London Stereoscopic Company, 54 Clieapside and 108 Regent Street; Spooner, 379 Strand. — Photographic Materials: Fallowfield, Charing Cross Road ; Marion, 23 Soho Square. Pianoforte-Manufacturers: — Broadwood ^' Sons, 33 Great Pulteney Street, Golden Square ; Collard ^ Collard, 16 Gros- venor Street, 26 Cheapside, and Oval Road, Regent's Park; Erard, 18 Great Marlborough Street ; Hopkinson, 95 New Bond Street. Preserves, etc. ('Italian Warehouses') : — Crosse ^' Blackwell, 20 and 21 Soho Square, and 77 Dean Street (noted firm for pickles ; wholesale); Fortnum, Mason, ^^ Co., 181-183 Piccadilly; Castell ^ Brown, 33-41 Wardour Street (wholesale) ; Hedges §- Butler, 155 Regent Street; Morel Brothers, 210 Piccadilly. Shoemakers. For gentlemen : — Deroy, 74 Regent Street and 7 Air Street W. ; Dowie ^ Marshall, 455 Strand; Fuchs, 54 Con- duit Street; Bowley ^' Co., 53 Charing Cross; Parker, 145 Oxford Street; Peal, 487 Oxford Street; Medwin, 41 Sackville Street and 67 St. James's Street ; Hoby, 20 Pall Mall ; Tuczek, 39 Old Bond Street; Waukenphast, 60 Haymarket; Francis, 40 Mad- dox Street; West, St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, City. — For ladies: — Hook, Knowles, ^' Co., 66 New Bond Street; Bird, 180 Oxford Street; Gundry^Sons, 174 New Bond Street; Thierry ^ Sons, 292 Regent Street; Thierry, 70 Regent Street. — Boots and shoes in London are rather dear but of excellent quality. Stationers : — Macmichael, 42 South Audley Street ; Parkins 4^ Gotto, 54-62 Oxford Street; Partridge ^ Cooper, 192 Fleet Street ; Webster ^ Co., 60 Piccadilly. Tailors : — Poole <^' Co., 36-39 Savile Row, Regent Street (intro- duction from former customer required) ; Miles, 4 Sackville Street ; Parfitt, Roberts, <^' Parfitt, 75 Jermyn Street; Kerslake ^' Co., 12 Hanover Street, Hanover Square; Radford, Jones, ^ Co., 32 George Street, Hanover Square; Bore, 31 St. James's Street (ready money tailor, moderate charges) ; Blarney <J' Son, 62 Charing Cross ; Ralph ^ Norton, 150 Strand ; Meyer <$- Mortimer, 36 Con- duit Street; Brown ^^ Son , 11 Princes Street, Hanover Square; Stohwasser <^' Co., 39 Conduit Street; Stulz, Pape, ^f Son, 10 Clifford Street ; Wray ^' Roby, 78 Queen Street, Cheapside ; Henry Keen, 114 High Holborn; Piggott, 117 Cheapside and Milk Street (also general outfitter). — Clerical Tailors: — Pratt, 23 Tavistock Street, Covent Garden; Cox, Sons, ^ Co., 28 Southampton Street; Seary, 13 New Oxford Street. — Ladies' Tailor : Redfern, 26 Con- duit Street. — Readymade clothes may be obtained very cheaply in numerous large shops (prices usually affixed). Tea Merchants : — Ridgway, 6 and 7 King William Street, City; Strachan ^ Co., 73 Moorgate Street; Twining ^ Co., 216 Strand; Dakin # Co., 47 St. Paul's Churchyard, and 30 Shaftes- 24 8. BAZARS. bury Avenue; Law, 102 & 104 New Oxford Street; Cooper ^' Co., 268 Regent Circus, and 35 Strand. Toy Makers: — Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly; Lowther Arcade, Strand; Cremer, 210 Regent Street; Kindergarten Emporium, 67 Berners Street. Trukk Makers : — Allen, 37 Strand; Asprey ^ Son, 166 New Bond Street, and 22 Albemarle Street ; Southgate, 75 and 76 Wat- ling Street; Millard, 6 Lisle Street, Leicester Square. — (Strangers should be on tbeir guard against tbe temptation of purchasing trunks and portmanteaus in inferior leather marked 'second hand' — a common form of fraud in houses of a lower class.) Umbrellas and Parasols : — Sangster ^' Co., 94 Fleet Street, 140 Regent Street, 75 Cheapside, and 522 Oxford Street ; Martin, 64-65 Burlington Arcade; Brigg, 23 St. James's Street; Smith, 57 Oxford Street, 1 Savile Place, Regent Street, and 47 Moorgate Street. Watchmakers : — Bennett, 65 Cheapside ; Barraud 4^ Lunds, 26 Cornhill ; Benson, 25 Old Bond Street, and 62 and 64 Ludgate Hill; E. Dent ^^ Co., 61 Strand; M. F. Dent ^' Co., 33 Cockspur Street; Frodsham ^' Co., 84 Strand. Waterproof Goobs : — Macintosh, 30 Fore Street, E. C. ; Matthews ^^ Son, 58 Charing Cross ; Piggott, ill Cheapside; Cord- ing, 19 Piccadilly ; Walkley, 5 Strand; Cow, 46 Cheapside. Wine Merchants. — There are about 2500 wine merchants in London, most of whom can supply fairly good wine at reasonable prices. Visitors who occupy private apartments should procure their wine from a dealer. The wines at hotels are generally dear and in- different. The following are good houses: — Cockhurn <J' Co., 8 Lime Street, City; Hedges <^' Butler, 155 Regent Street; Gilbey, Pantheon, 173 Oxford Street, besides other offices (with a very extensive trade in low-priced wines; Claret from Is. per bottle. Hock and Moselle from Is. Qd.'); Fortnum i^' Mason, 181-183 Piccadilly; Carbonell ^- Co., 182 Regent Street; G. Tanqueray # Co., 5 Pall Mall East; Basil Woodd <J^ Sons, 34 New Bond Street; Morel Bros. ^ Cohbett, 210 Piccadilly, 18 Pall Mall, and 143 Regent Street; Law, Hollow ay , (J- Co., 55 Cannon Street, City; Payne <?' Sons, 61 St. James's Street; Millbank, Leech, §'Co., 101 Leaden- hall Street, City. Most of the best-known continental wine-flrma have agencies in London, the addresses of which may be ascer- tained from the Post Office Directory. Claret and other wines may also be obtained from most of the grocers. Eazaars. These emporiums afford pleasant covered walks between rows of shops abundantly stocked with all kinds of attract- ive and useful articles. The most important are the Soho Bazaar, 58 Oxford Street; Baker Street Bazaar, 58 Baker Street; Opera Colonnade, Haymarket; Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly; Lowther 8. MARKETS. 25 Arcade^ Strand (chiefly for toys and other articles at moderate pri- ces) ; Royal Arcade^ 28 Old Bond Street. — Among these the Soho Bazaar is facile princeps. It has been in existence for half a cen- tury, and is conducted on very strict principles. A rental of twelve shillings per week is paid for each stall; some holders rent three or four contiguous stalls. Markets. The immense market traffic of London is among the most impressive sights of the Metropolis , and one with which no stranger should fail to make himself acquainted. The chief mar- kets are held at early hours of the morning, when they are visited by vast crowds hastening to supply their commissariat for the day. The chief Vegetable, Fruit, and Flower Market is Covent Garden (p. 186), where all kinds of vegetables, fruits, ornamental plants, and cut flowers are displayed in richest profusion. The best time to visit this market is about sunrise. Billingsgate (p. 113), the great fish-market, as interesting in its way as Covent Garden, though pervaded by far less pleasant odours, is situated in Lower Thames Street, City, near London Bridge. The covered market is a handsome building lately erected, with an open front towards the street and a facade on the river. Along the quay lie fishing-boats, whence the fish are landed in baskets, and sold first to the wholesale, and afterwards to the retail dealers. Oysters and other shell-fish are sold by measure, salmon by weight, and other fish by number. Large quantities of fish are also conveyed to Billingsgate daily by railway ; salmon from Scotland, cod and turbot from the Doggerbank , lobsters from Norway, soles from the German Ocean, eels from Holland, and oysters from the mouth of the Thames and the English Channel. The market commences daily at 5 a. m. Smithfield Market, Newgate Street, City, is the great meat-mar- ket of London. The covered market, opened in 1868, is most ad- mirably fitted up (comp. p. 97). Subterranean lines connect it with the Metropolitan Railway, and thence indirectly with the Me- tropolitan Cattle Market. It was once the chief cattle market of London, and the famous Bartholomew Fair was held here down to 1853. A Poultry Market was added to the meat-market in 1876, the London Central Fish Market in 1888; and a large new Vegetable Market, superseding Farringdon Market, was completed in 1892 (comp. p. 97). The Metropolitan Cattle Market, Copenhagen Fields, between Islington and Camden Town, is the largest in the world. The prin- cipal markets are held on Mondays and Thursdays, but on other days the traffic is also very considerable. Around the lofty clock tower are grouped a post-office, a telegraph station, banks, an en- quiry office, shops, etc. At the sides are interminable rows of well- arranged stalls for the cattle. — At Deptford is a great Foreign Cattle Market, for cattle imported from the Continent. 26 8. MARKETS. Among the other important markets of London are Leadenhall Market (p. 109), Leadenhall Street, for poultry and game; the Borough Market, beside St. Saviour's Church (p. 307), one of the largest wholesale fruit and vegetahle markets ; Spitalfields Market, Commercial Street, E., for vegetables, etc., the chief emporium for East London; Great Eastern Railway Market, at Stratford, E., for fish and vegetables ; and the Shadwell Market, East of London Docks, also for fish. Columbia Market, Bethnal Green, was erected by the munificence of the Baroness Burdett Coutts, at a cost of 200,000^., for supplying meat, fish, and vegetables to one of the poorest quarters of London. But neither this, nor the Elephant and Castle Market, for fish, established by Mr. Samuel PlimsoU, has hitherto been very successful. The largest Horse Market is TattersaWs , Knightsbridge Green, where a great number of horses are sold by auction on every Monday throughout the year, and in spring on Thursdays also. Tattersall's is the centre of all business relating to horse-racing and betting throughout the country, — the Englishman's substitute for the con- tinental lotteries. Aldridge's, St. Martin's Lane, is another im- portant horse-mart. The Co-operative System. The object of this system may be described as the furnishing of members of a trading association, formed for the purpose, with genuine and moderately-priced goods on the principle of ready-money payments, the cheapness being secured by economy of management and by contentment with small profits. Notwithstanding the opposition of retail and even of whole- sale dealers, it has of late years made astonishingly rapid progress in London, where there are now about thirty 'co-operative stores', carrying on an immense trade. The chief companies are the Army and Navy Co-operative Stores, 105 Victoria Street, Westminster, the Civil Service Supply Association, and the Civil Service Co-operative Society, 28 Haymarket. The Civil Service Supply Association consists of shareholders , of members belonging to the Civil Service, and of outsiders (who, however, must be friends of members or shareholders), who pay 55. the first year and 2s. Qd. in subsequent years. The articles sold comprise groceries, wines, spirits, provisions, tobacco, clothing, books, stationery, fancy goods, drugs, and watches. The premises of the association in Queen Victoria Street (No. 136) cost 21.0001., while it has others in Bedford Street and Chan- dos Street, Strand. — Strangers or visitors to London are, of course, unable to make purchases at a co-operative store except through a member. Co-operative Working Societies. Another application of the co-operative system is seen in the various associations established on the principle of the Co -Partner ship of the Workers. Among meritorious societies of this kind the following may be men- tioned: Bookbinders'' Co -operative Society, 17 Bury Street, Bloomsbury; Hamil- ton (<r Co. (shirt-makers), 326 Regent Street; Women s Printing Society, 21b Great College Street, Westminster; Mrs. Alison (Co-operative Needlewomen; shirts, etc.), 34 Brooke Street, Holborn; Miss M. Hart (Decorative Co- operators' Association), 405 Oxford Street; Co-operative Printers^ Salisbury Court, Fleet Street. 27 9. Cabs. Omnibuses. Tramways. Coaches. Cabs. When the traveller is in a hurry, and his route does not coincide with that of an omnibus, he had better at once engage a cab at one of the numerous cab-stands, or hail one of those passing along the street. The ^ Four-wheelers', which are small and un- comfortable, hold four persons inside, while a fifth can be accommo- dated beside the driver. The two-wheeled cabs, called Hansoms, from the name of their inventor , have seats for two persons only (though often used by three), and drive at a much quicker rate than the others. Persons without much luggage will therefore prefer a hansom. The driver's seat is at the back, so that he drives over the heads of the passengers sitting inside. Orders are com- municated to him through a small trap-door in the roof. — There are now over 11,000 cabs in London, employingnearly20, 000 horses. Cab Eares from the chief railway stations to e to, 55 "e S (^ ii! s.d. S.d. 2-6 2 - 1-0 I . 1-6 1-6 1-6 1 - I - 1 - 1-6 ^ . 1.-6 i . 2-6 1-6 2 - 1-6 1 - I . 1 - 1 . 1-6 1 . 2 - 2 - 1-6 1 . 2-6 1-6 1-6 1-6 2 - ]^ . 2 - 1-6 2-6 1-6 1 . 2 - i . 1-6 2 - Bank of England Bond Street, Piccadilly . . British Museum Covent Garden Grosvenor Square, N.W. . Hyde Park Corner .... Leicester Square London Bridge Ludgate Hill Marble Arch Oxford Circus Piccadilly, Haymarket . . Post Office Regent Street, Piccadilly . St. Paul's South Kensington Museum Strand (Wellington Street) Temple Bar Tower Trafalgar Square Westminster Palace . . . Zoological Gardens .... s.d. 1-6 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1-6 1 - 2 - 1-6 1-6 1 - 1 - 1-6 1 - 1-6 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 1 - 1-6 ll - s.d. 1 - 1-6 1-6 1-6 2 - 2 - 1-6 1 - 1 - 2 - 1-6 1-6 1 - 1-6 1 - 2-6 1-6 1 - 1 - 1-6 1-6 2-6 s.d. s.d.\ 1-6 1 - 1 1-6 1-6! 1 - 1-6 1-6 1-6 2 - 2 -j2 - 1-6 i 1-6 1-6 1 . 1 - 1-6 2 - I . 2 - 1-6 1-6 1 - 1 - 1-6 1-6 2-6 2-6 \ . j[ . 1 . 1 . 2 - 1 - 1-6 1-6 1-6 1-6 1 1 - 2-6 1 s.d. 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1-6 1-6 1 - 1 - 1 - 1-6 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 1 - 1 - 1-6 1 - 1 - 2 - Fares are reckoned by distance, unless the cab is expressly hired by time. The charge for a drive of 2 M. or under is !«. ; for each ad- ditional mile or fraction of a mile 6d. For each person above two, 6<i. additional is charged for the whole hiring. Two children under 10 years of age are reckoned as one adult. For each large article of luggage car- ried outside, 2d. is charged : smaller articles are free. The cabman is not bound to drive more than 6 miles. Beyond the 4-mile radius from Charing Cross the fare is is. for every mile or fraction of a mile. The charge for waiting is 6c?. for each completed V* l"". for four-wheelers, 28 9. OMNIBUSES. and Sd. for hansoms. The fare by time for the first hour or part of an hour is 2s. for four-wheelers, and 2s. Qd. for hansoms. For each additional 1/4 hr., &d. and 8d. Beyond the 4-mile radius the fare is 2«. 6d. for the first hour, for both 2-wheel and 4-wheel vehicles, and for each additional 74 hr. 8d. The driver may decline to drive for more than one full hour, or to be hived by time between 8 p. m, and 6 a. m. Whether the hirer knows the proper fare or not, he is recommended to come to an agreement with the driver before starting. Each driver is bound to possess a copy of the authorised Book of Distances, and to produce it if required. Many of the London cabmen are among the most insolent and ex- tortionate of their fraternity. The traveller, therefore, in his own and the general interest, should resist all attempts at overcharging, and should, in case of persistency, demand the cabman's number, or order him to drive to the nearest police court or station. The driver is bound to deposit any articles left in the cab at the nearest police station within twenty-four hours, to be claimed by the owner at the Head Police Office, New Scotland Yard (p. 191). The Fly is a vehicle of a superior description, resembling the Parisian Voiture de remise, and is admitted to the parks more freely than the cahs. Flys must be specially ordered from a livery stable keeper, and the charges are of course higher. These vehicles are recommended in preference to cabs for drives into the country. Omnibuses , of which there are over 200 lines , cross the Me- tropolis in every direction from 8 a.m. till midnight. The destina- tion of each vehicle [familiarly known as a '6ws), and the names of some of the principal streets through which it passes, are usually painted on the outside. As they always keep to the left in driving along the street, the intending passenger should walk on that side for the purpose of hailing one. To prevent mistakes, he had better mention his destination to the conductor before entering. The first omnibuses plying in London were started by Mr. George Shilibeer in 1829. They were drawn by three horses yoked abreast, and were much heavier and clumsier than those now in use. At first they were furnished with a supply of books for the use of the pass- engers. The London service of omnibuses is now mainly in the hands of the London General Omnibus Co. and the London Road Car Co. A number of small one-horse omnibuses have recently been started which ply for short distances for a fare of "^lid. These vehicles have no conductor, and passengers place their fares in a box. Omnibuses of this kind run from Charing Cross over Westminster Bridge, from Farringdon Street Station over Blackfriars Bridge, etc. Special railway omnibuses ply between dif- ferent railway-stations (on week-days only), as from Portland Road (Metro- politan Railway) to Charing Cross, from Baker Street to Piccadilly Circus, and to Charing Cros?, from Gower Street to Edgware Eoad, from Farring- don Road to the Elephant and Castle, etc. In point of comfort the vehicles generally still leave much to be desired, London being far behind many provincial, Continental, and American cities in this respect. The principal points of intersection of the omnibus lines are (on the N. of the Thames) the Bank, Charing Cross, Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Circus, and the junction of Tottenham Court Road and Oxford Street. The chief point in Southwark is the hostelry called the Elephant and Castle. Those who travel by omnibus should keep themselves provided with small change to prevent delay and mistakes. The fare varies from '^l^d. to 6d., and is in a few cases 9d. For a drive to Richmond, the Crystal Palace, and other places several miles from the City the usual fare is Is. A table of the legal fares is placed in the inside of each omnibus. 9. OMNIBUSES. 29 Omnibus Lines. The following is a list of a few of the prin- cipal routes: — Name Colour Route Adelaide Yellow Atlas Light green Bayswatev Green Blackwall Dark green Buw Dark green Brixton Green Brompton White Cumberwell Yellow Camden Town Yellow Carlton Yellow Charing Cross Kilburn and Red Chelsea Choco- late City Atlas Dark Clapham green Chocol., red, or Clapton and ford Circus Ox- green Dark green Favorite Dark green Favoi'ite Dark green Victoria & King's Cross Green Chalk Farm Road, Harapstead Road, Totten- ham CourtRoad, Charing Cross Road, White- hall, Victoria; every 8 min. St. .John's Wood, Baker Street, Oxford Street, Regent Street, Charing Cross, Westminster Bridge , Camberwell Gate ; every 8 min. Bayswater, Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside, Bank, London Bridge, every 3-4 min. •, Bays- water to Whitechapel , every 8 min. ; to Broad Street and Liverpool Street Stations every hour. East India Road, Commercial Road, White- chapel. Cornhill, Fleet St., Strand, Picca- dilly Circus; at frequent intervals. Stratford and Bow, Whitechapel, Cornhill, Cheap.side , Fleet Street , Strand , Charing Cross ; every 7 min. Brixton Church, Kennington Road, Westmin- ster Bridge, Charing Cross; every 10 min. Walham Green , Piccadilly , Charing Cross, Strand, Fleet Street, Cheapside, Bank. Broad Street; every 20 min. Camberwell, Walworth Road, Borough, Lon- don Bridge, Gracechurch Street, Shoreditch ; every 6 min. Kentish Town, Camden Town, Tottenham Court Road, St. Martin's Lane, Charing Cross, Vic- toria; every 7 min. Hampstead Road, Tot'enham Court Road, St. Martins Lane, Trafalgar Square; every 15 min. Kilburn, Edgeware Road, Oxford Street, Re- gent Street, Charing Cross; every 15 min. Chelsea, Sloane Street, Piccadilly, Strand, Fleet Street, Bank, and then by Bishopsgate Street and Bethnal Green Road to Old Ford, or by Moorgate Street to Hoxton; every 20 min. Swiss Cottage, St. John's Wood, Oxford Street, Holborn, Bank, London Bridge; every lOmin. Clapham, Stockwell, Kennington, London Bridge, Gracechurch Street; every 10-12 min. Clapton, Hackney Road, Bishopsgate Street, Bank, Cheapside, Holborn, Oxford Street; every 20 min. Holloway, Pentonville Road, Chancery Lane, Strand, Westminster Abbey, Victoria Station ; every 7 min. Holloway, Highbury, Islington, City Road, Bank, King William Street, London Bridge; every 5 min. Victoria, Piccadilly, Long Acre, Great Queen Street, Hussell Square, King's Cross; every 10 minutes. 30 9. OMNIBUSES. Name Colour Route Hammersmith jRed London Road Car Go. Brown Favorite Blue Favorite Dark green Hempstead Yellow Highgate Yellow Islington and Kent Road Dark green Kennington to Char- ing Cross Kilburn Red Dark green Kilhurn and Victo- ria Station King''s Cross Red Light green Kingsland Green Old Ford Paddington Yell, or chocol. Yellow Paddington Yellow Paragon Green Putney Bridge White Royal Blue Royal Oak and Charing Cross Dark blue Red Royal Oak and Victoria Station South Hackney Red Red Waterloo Blue Westminster Brown Hammersmith, Kensington, Piccadilly, Charing Cross, Strand, Fleet St., Broad Street; every 10 min. West Kensington, Shaftesbury Avenue, Charing Cross Road, Oxford Street, Liverpool Street Station; every few minutes. Holloway, Islington, Euston Road, Regent Street, Piccadilly, Brompton; every 8 min. Stoke Newington, Essex Road, Chancery Lane, Charing Cross, Westminster, Victoria Sta- tion; every 20 min. Haverstock Hill , Camden Town , Tottenham Court Road, Charing Cross Road, Piccadilly Circus; every 15 min. Kentish Town Road, HampsteadRoad, Totten- ham Court Road, Oxford Street ; every 10 min. New North Road, City P^oad, Moorgate Street, London Bridge, Borough, Old Kent Road; every 7 min. Kennington Park and Road, Westminster Bridge, Parliament Street; every 5 min. Edgeware Road, Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall Street, Aldgate ; every 8 min. Edgeware Road, Park Lane, Victoria Station ; every 6 min. Great College Street, King's Cross, Gray's Inn Road, Chancery Lane, Fleet Street, Blaek- friars Bridge, Kennington; every few min. Dalston, Kingsland Road, Shoreditch, Bishops- gate Street, Gracechurch, London Bridge, Borough, Elephant and Castle ; every 6 min. Old Ford, Bethnal Green Road, Shoreditch, Bishopsgate, Exchange ; every 5 min. Kensal Green, Paddington, Edgeware Road, Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside , London Bridge; every 12 min. Paddington, Edgeware Road, Oxford Street, Holborn, Newgate Street, Cheapside, Lon- don Bridge ; every 5 min. Kennington Road, Borough, London Bridge, Gracechurch Street; every 10 min. Putney Bridge, Fulham, Brompton, Piccadilly, Strand, Fleet Street, St. Paul's, Cannon Street, London Bridge ; every 20 min. Victoria Station, Piccadilly, Bond Street, Ox- ford Circus; every 10 min. Archer Street (Bayswater), Edgeware Road, Oxford Street, Regent Street, Charing Cross ; every 8 min. Praed Street, Edgeware Road, Park Lane, Victoria Station; every 12 min. Victoria Park, Hackney Road, Shoreditch, Bank ; every 10 min. Camden Town, York and Albany, Regent Street, Waterloo Bridge, Elephant and Castle, Cam- berwell Gate ; every 7 min. Bank, Cheapside, Fleet Street, Strand, West- minster, Pimlico; every 6 min. 9. TRAMWAYS. 31 Tramways. About 130 miles of tramways, with over 1000 cars, are now in operation in tlie outlying districts of London. The cars are comfortable, and the fares moderate (l-4d!.). The cars of the South London Tramioays Co. run from Westminster Bridge and London Bridge to Wandsworth and East Hill, and from Chelsea Bridge to Lavender Hill and Clapham Junction. Those of the London Tramways Co. run from Westminster Bridge to Brixton, Touting, New Cross, Greenwich, and Peckham ; from Blackfriars Bridge to Brixton, New Cross, Tooting, and Greenwich ; from Victoria Station to Vauxhall Bridge and Camberwell; and from Waterloo Station to New Cross and Greenwich. The London Street Tvamways Co. runs cars from King's Cross to Kentish Town, Islington, and Finshury Park; from Euston Road to Kentish Town, Hampstead Heath, Holloway , and Flighgate; and from Holborn via Gray's Inn Road and Kentish Town to Hampstead Heath and to Parliament Hill. The lines oii'he North Metropolitan Tramways Co. extend from Moor- gate Street to Finsbury Park, Stamford Hill, Clapton, Highbury, New Park, Canonbury, and Highgate; from Aldersgate Street to Hackney and Dal- ston, and" to Highgate Archway, from Holborn to Goswell Road, Dal- ston, and Stamford Hill; from Canning Town Station to Green Gate; from Stratford to Manor Park and Leytonstone; from Bloomsbury to Lea Bridge and Poplar ; and from Aldgate to Hackney, Victoria Park, Stratford, and Poplar. The cars of the North London Ti^amways Co. ply from Finsbury Park to Edmonton and Wood Green. The cars of the London Southern Tramways Co. run from Vauxhall Station to Camberwell Green and Nor- wood via Loughborough Junction. The West Metropolitan Tramways Co. runs cars from Shepherd's Bush to Acton and Chiswick; from Hammer- smith to Kew; and from Kew to Richmond. The lines of the Harrow Road and Paddington Tramways Co. extend from Amberley Road, Padd- ington (near Royal Oak Station), to Harlesden Green, Willesden, with a branch running towards the Paddington Recreation Ground and Maida Vale. The London., Deptford., and Greenwich Tramways Co. maintains communi- cation between London Bridge and Deptford and between the Bricklayer's Arms and Rotherhithe. The line of the Woolwich and Southeast London Tramways Co. extends from Plumstead to Greenwich, via Woolwich Ar- senal, Woolwich Dockyard, etc. Coaches. During the summer months well-appointed stage coaches run from London to various places in the vicinity, usually starting from Northumberland Avenue between 10 and 11.45 a.m. The fares vary from 2.'?. 6d. to 14s. ; return-fares one-half or two-thirds more ; box seats usually Is. Qd, extra. Some of these coaches are driven by the gentlemen who own them. They afford better opportunities in many respects for viewing the scenery than railway-trains, and may be recommended in fine weather. On the more popular routes seats have often to be booked several days in advance. From the Hotel Victoria (p. 6) daily (except Sun.) to Boxhi II (27 M.); i2etVo<e (27 M.); St. Albans (25 M.); Virginia Water (29 'M..). Also to Brighton (53 M.), thrice a week. From the Hotel Metropole (p, 6) daily (except Sun.) to Hampton Court (16 M.); Harrow (15 M.); Maidenhead (31 M.); Sevmoaks (26 M.)i Windsor (30 M.). From 155 Piccadilly to Guildford (28 M.), daily. From 4 Northumberland Avenue to Dorking (26 M.), daily; to Oxford (55 M.), thrice weekly; to Betchford (30 M.); to Chingford; to Coventry (94 M. ; three days' trip), etc. 32 10. Railways. The principal Railway Stations in London are fifteen in num- ber. Many of them are now lighted by the electric light. On the left (N.) bank of the Thames are the following: — I. Euston Square Station, the terminus of the London and North Western Railway, Euston Square, near Euston Road and Tottenham Court Road. An additional station has been opened a little to the W. Trains for Rugby^ Crewe, Chester, Bangor, Holy- head (whence steamers to Ireland) ; Birmingham , Shrewsbury ; Stafford, Leicester, Derby, Nottingham, Lincoln, Leeds, Hull; Liverpool , Manchester ; Carlisle, Glasgow , Edinburgh, etc. Sub- urban trains to Chalk Farm, Loudon Road, Kilburn ^ Maida Vale, Willesden Junction, Harrow, Finner, and Watford. II. St. Fancras Station, Euston Road, to the W. of King's Cross Station, the terminus of the Midland Railway. Trains for Bedford, Leicester, Nottingham, Derby, Chesterfield, Normanton, Hull, York, Leeds, Newcastle, Lancaster; Glasgow, Edinburgh, etc. Suburban trains for Camden Road, Kentish Town, Haverstock Hill, Hendon. III. King's Cross Station, Euston Road, terminus of the Great Northern Railway. Trains for the N. andN.E.: York, Newcastle, Edinburgh; Hull, Leeds, Sheffield, Manchester, Liverpool; Cam- bridge, Bedford, Hertford, Lincoln. Suburban trains to Holloway, Finsbury Park, Highgate, Barnet, and Edgware; Hornsey , and Enfield. IV. Paddington Station, terminus of the Great Western Railway for the W. andS.W. of England [trains start from the W. side of the station). Trains to Windsor, Reading, Cheltenham, Gloucester, Bath, Bristol, Exeter; Plymouth, Falmouth; South Wales; Oxford, Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, etc. Local trains to Acton, Ealing, Brentford, XJxbridge; Staines; Maidenhead, Great Marlow; Henley; Aylesbury, etc. V. Liverpool Street Station, near Bishopsgate Street , ter- minus of the Great Eastern Railway and East London Line. Trains to Chelmsford, Colchester, Harwich, Ipswich, Norwich, Lowe- stoft, Yarmouth ; Cambridge, Ely, Peterborough, Lincoln, etc. Sub- urban trains to Bef/inai Green, Hackney, Clapton, Old Ford, Strat- ford, Epping Forest, Tilbury, Southend; and through the Thames Tunnel to New Cross, Peckham Rye, etc. VI. Charing Cross Station, on the site of Old Hungerford Market, close to Trafalgar Square, terminus of — 1. The South Eastern Railway via Redhill, Tunbridge, and Ashford, to Folkestone and Dover. 2. The Greenwich Railway, a viaduct borne by brick arches, via London Bridge Station, Spa Road, and Deptford, to Greenwich. 3. The Mid and North Kent Lines to New Cross, Lewisham, Beckenham, Bromley, Blackheath, Woolwich, Dartford^ Erith, Gravesend, Rochester. 10. RAILWAYS. 33 VII. Cannon Street Station, Cannon Street, City, near the Bank and St. Paul's Cathedral, City terminus for the same lines as Charing Cross. Trains from Charing Cross to Cannon Street, and vice versa, every 10 minutes. VIII. Victoria Station, the West End terminus of the London. Chatham, and Dover Railway, in Victoria Street, near Bucking- ham Palace and Westminster. — The following lines issue from this station — 1. The London, Chatham, and Dovbb, Railway, to Clapham, Brixton, Heme Hill, Dulwich, Sydenham Hill, Beckenham, Brom- ley, Bickley , Rochester, Chatham, Faversham, Canterbury, Dover, Heme Bay, Margate, Broadstairs, Ramsgate. 2. The Crystal Palace branch of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway ; stations, Clapham, Brixton, Denmark Hill, Peckham Rye, Honor Oak, Lordship Lane, Crystal Palace (High Level Station). 3. The Metropolitan Extension, to Ludgate Hill a,nd. Holb or n Viaduct Station, via Grosvenor Road, Battersea Park, York Road, Wandsworth Road , Clapham and North Stockwell , Brixton and South Stockwell, Loughborough Junction, Camberwell New Road, Walworth Road, Elephant and Castle, and Borough Road. 4. The West London Extension, via Battersea, Chelsea, West Brompton, and Kensington (Addison Road), to Willesden Junction. 5. The Brighton and South Coast Railway, via Clapham Junction (a. most important station for South London, through which 1200 trains pass daily) , Wandsworth Common , Balham, Streatham Hill, West Norwood, Gipsy Hill, and Crystal Palace (Low Level Station), to Norwood Junction (see p. 34), or by Clapham Junction , Wandsworth Common, Balham, Streatham Common, Norbury, Thornton Heath, and Selhurst to Croydon (see p. 34). At Norwood Junction and Croydon the line joins the Lon- don Bridge and Brighton Line. 6. The South London Line, via Grosvenor Road, York Road, Wandsworth Road, Clapham Road, Loughborough Junction, Denmark Hill, Peckham Rye, Queen's Road, Old Kent Road, and South Ber- mondsey, to London Bridge. IX. Broad Street Station, terminus of the North London Railway. Trains to Shoreditch, Haggerston, and Dalston, where the line forks. The rails to the W. run to Mildmay Park, Canon- bury, Islington ^' Highbury, Barnsbury, Camden Town, Kentish Town, Gospel Oak (for Highgate; to Chingford, see p. 34), Hamp- stead Heath, Finchley Road, West End Lane, Brondesbury , Kensal Rise , Willesden Junction (an important station for North London, stopped at by all the express trains of the N.W. railway), Acton, South Acton (branch to Hammersmith Broadway, for Bedford Park\ Hammersmith, Ounnersbury, Kew Bridge, Kew Gardens, Richmond, and Kingston. The line to the E. goes to Hackney, Homerton, Vic- toria Park, Old Ford, Bow, and Popiar. Trains also run every Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 3 34 10. RAILWAYS. 1/4 lir. from Broad Street to Camden Town (as above) and Chalk Farm, on the L.N. W. railway; and every V2 l^r. to Dalston, Highbury, Camden Town, Kentish Town ; thence as ahove to WiLlesden Junc- tion, and thence to St, Quintin Park & Wormwood Scrubs, Uxbridge Road (for Shepherd's Bush) , Kensington (Addison Road) , EarVs Court, South Kensington, and thence hy the 'inner circle' (p. 35) to Mansion House. — Gospel Oak is also the terminus of a line via Highgate Road , Junction Road , Upper Holloway , Hornsey Road, Crouch Hill, Harringay Park, St. Ann's Road, South Tottenham, St. James's Street, Hoe Street, Wood Street, and Hale End, to Chingford. X. Ludgate Hill Station, near St. Paul's Cathedral and Black- friars Bridge, City terminus of the Metropolitan Extension (p. 35), and also of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. XI. Holborn Viaduct Station, Holborn Viaduct, for the same trains as Ludgate Hill Station. XII. St. Paul's Station, Queen Victoria Street, a terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. XIII. Fenchurch Street Station, near the Bank, on the S. side of Fenchurch Street, terminus of the Blackball Railway to Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, West India Docks, Poplar, &nd Black- wall, and of the Tilbury, Gravesend, and Southend Railway. On the right (S.) bank of the Thames : — XIV. London Bridge Station, the terminus of the Brighton AND South Coast Railway, via New Cross, Brockley, Honor Oak Park, Forest Hill, Sydenham (Crystal Palace), Penge, Anerley, Norwood Junction (see p. 33), Croydon (where the main L. B. S. C. line from Victoria joins; see also p. 33), Parley (junction for Caterham) , Red Hill Junction (branch to the W. for Reigate, Box Hill , and Dorking ; to the E. for Dover'), Three Bridges (for Arun- def), and Hayward's Heath (junction for Lewes and Newhaven), to Brighton. Also to Chichester and Portsmouth for the Isle of Wight. XV. Waterloo Station, Waterloo Road, Southwark, terminus of the South Western Railway, consists of three parts — 1. The Northern (entrance on the E. andN.E.), for the line to Reading 'hy Vauxhall, Queen^s Road, Clapham Junction, Wands- worth, Putney, and Barnes. At Barnes the line forks ; the branch to the right (N.) forms a loop-line via Chiswick, Kew Bridge, Brent- ford, Isleworth, and Hounslow , beyond which it rejoins the main- line ; that to the left (the main line) passes Mortlake , Richmond, Twickenham (hxa,nch. to Strawberry Hill, Shepperton, Teddington, Kingston, and Combe ^- Maiden) and Staines (junction for Windsor). 2. The Central (entrance on the E. and W. sides) , for the main line to Southampton, Portsmouth (Isle of Wight), Salisbury, Exeter, Plymouth, etc. 8. The Southern (same entrances as the Central), for local trains to Ouildford via Earlsfield , Wimbledon (an important junc- tion), and Payne's Park. At Rayne's Park a loop-line, to the left, 10. RAILWAYS. 35 runs via Epsom and Leatherhead^ rejoining the older line at Effing- ham Junction. The latter line proceeds via Combe <^ Maiden, Surhiton, and Long Ditto7i. The trains for SurUton, Thames Ditton, and Hamp- ton Court also start from the Southern station ; and also a service to Kingston and Twickenham (see p. 34). [Waterloo Junction, adjoining Waterloo terminus on the E., is a distinct station belonging to the South Eastern Railway.] On all the English lines the first-class passenger is entitled to carry 112/6. of luggage free, second-class 80/6., and third-class 60/6. The com- panies, however, rarely make any charge for overweight unless the excess is exorbitant. On all inland routes the traveller should see that his lug- gage is duly labelled for his destination, and put into the right van, as otherwise the railways are not responsible for its transport. Travellers to the Continent require to book their luggage and obtain a ticket for it, after which it gives them no farther trouble. The railway porters are nominally forbidden to accept gratuities, but it is a common custom to give 2d-Qd. to the porter who transfers the luggage fromi the cab to the train or vice versa. Travellers accustomed to the formalities of Continental railway of- ficials may perhaps consider that in England they are too much left to themselves. Tickets are not invariably checked at the beginning of a journey, and travellers should therefore make sure that they are in the proper com- partment. The names of the stations are not always so conspicuous as they should be (especially at night); and the way in which the porters call them out, laying all the stress on the last syllable, is seldom of much assistance. The officials, however, are generally civil in answering ques- tions and giving information. In winter foot-warmers with hot water are usually provided. It is 'good form' for a passenger quitting a railway- carriage where there are other travellers to close the door behind him, and to pull up the window if he has had to let it down. Smoking is forbidden in all the carriages except in the compartments marked 'smoking', under a penalty of 40s. Brads/taw''s Railway Guide (monthly ; 6d.) is the most complete ; but numerous others (the ABC Railway Guide, etc.), claiming to be easier of reference, are also published. Each of the great railway companies pub- lishes a monthly guide to its own system (price l-2c/.). Metropolitan or Underground Railways. An important artery of 'intramural' traffic is afforded by the Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Railways. These lines, which for the most part run under the houses and streets by means of tunnels, and partly also through cuttings between high walls, form a complete belt (the 'inner circle') round the whole of the inner part of London, while various branch-lines diverge to the outlying suburbs. The Midland, Great Western, Great Northern, and other railways run suburban trains in connection with the Me- tropolitan lines. The Underground Railways convey over 110 mil- lion passengers annually, or upwards of 2 million per week, at an average rate of about twopence per journey. Over the quadruple part of the line, between Farringdon street and Moorgate street, 1406 trains run every week-day. The stations on the underground 'lines are the following (see Railway Map) : — Mark Lane, for the Tower of London, the Mint, Corn Exchange, Billingsgate, and the Docks. 3* 36 10. RAILWAYS. Aldgate, Houndsditch , corner of Leadenhall and Fenchurch Streets, for Mincing Lane, Whitechapel, Minories, and the East End. From Aldjrate the line is extended to Aklgate East^ St. Mary's (White- chapel), and Whitechapel (Jlile End), whence the District Coinpany''s trains run on to Shadwell, Wapping, Rotherhithe, Deptford Road, and JVew Cross, on the East London Railway. Through-trains now run between New Cross and many of the District and Metropolitan stations. Bishopsgate , near the Liverpool Street (Great Eastern ; sub- way) and Broad Street (North London) stations. Moorgate Street , close to Finshury Circus , 5 min. from the Bank, chief station for the City. Aldersgate Street , Long Lane , near the General Post Office and Smithfleld Market (hranch-line to the latter, see p. 25) ; change for Ludgate Hill, Crystal Palace, and London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. Farringdon Street, in Clerkenwell, Y4 M. to the N. of Holborn Viaduct, connected yfith Holborn Viaduct and Ludgate Hill stations (see p. 34) ; trains to and from the latter (London , Chatham, and Dover Railway) every 10 min. King's Cross, corner of Pentonville Road and Gray's Inn Road, connected with the Great Northern and Midland Railways. Gower Street, near Euston Square (North Western) Terminus and about 1/2 M. from the British Museum. Omnibus (2d.) to Edg- ware Road Station (see below) in connection with the trains. Portland Road, Park Square, at the S.E. angle of Regent's Park, ^^2 M- fro'^ *^6 S. entrance of the Zoological Gardens (by the Broad Walk) ; omnibus to Oxford Circus (Id.) and Charing Cross Station (2d.) in connection with the trains. Baker Street, corner of York Place, another station for the Bo- tanic and Zaological Gardens. A little to the E., in Marylebone Road, is Madame Tussaud's (p. 43). Railway omnibuses to Picca- dilly Circus (Id.) and to Charing Cross (District Railway; 2d.). Branch Line to St. John's Wood Road (for Lord's Cricket Ground), Marlborough Road, Swiss Cottage, Finchley Road, West Hampstead, Kilburn- Brondeshury^ Willesden Green, Kmgshury-Neasden (with the extensive works of the Metropolitan Railway), Wemhly Park, Harrow, Pinner, Northwood, Rickmansworth, Charley Wood, Chalfont Road, Chesham, and Aylesbury. Edgware Boad, Chapel Street. Omnibus to Gower Street (see above). Branch Line to Bishop's Road, Royal Oak, Westbourne Park, Notting Hill (the last two stations are both near Kensal Green CemeterjO, Latimer Road, Shepherd^s Bush, Hammersmith (trains every 1/4 hr.); also to Turn- ham Green (Bedford Park), Gunnersbury, Kew Gardens, Richmond (trains every half-hour, from Bishop's Road to Richmond in 28 min.) — From Latimer Road branch-line to the left to Uxbridge Road, Addison Road (Kensington; for Olympia, p. 44), Earls Court, and Brompton (Gloucester Road), see p. 37 ; trains every 1/2 hr. — Omnibus to Kilburn. Praed Street (Paddington) , opposite the Great Western Hotel and the Paddington Station, with which it is connected by a subway. Queen's Road (Bayswater), N. side of Kensington Gardens. Notting HUl Gate, Notting Hill High Street, for the E. part of Notting Hill, Campden Hill, etc. 10. RAILWAYS. 37 Kensington High Street, Kensington, 1/3 M, from Holland House and Park. Gloncester Road (Brompton). Branch Lines: To EarVs Courts West Brompton, Walhatn Green (for Stamford Bridge Athletic Grounds), Parsoiis Green (for Hurlingham Park), Putney Bridge, East Putney, South fields, Wimbledon Park, and Wimbledon; to Earl's Court, West Kensington^ Hammersmith^ Raven^court Park, Turnham Green, Gunnersbury, Kew Gardens, and Richmond; to EarVs Court, Addison Road, Latimer Road, etc. (see p. 3G)j to EarVs Court, Addison Road, Willesden Junction, Broad Street (see p. 34). From Turnham Green a branch runs to Chiswick Park, Mill Hill Park, Ealing Common, and Ealing (Broadway). South Kensington,Cromwell Road, for South Kensington Museum (3 min. to the N.}, Natural History Museum, Albert Hall (subway, see p. 276), Albert Memorial, and the Imperial Institute. Sloane Square, near Chelsea Hospital, station forBattersea Park. Victoria, opposite Victoria Terminus (^London , Chatham, and Dover and Brighton Railways), with which it is connected by a subway, and 1/4 M. from Buckingham Palace. St. James's Park, York Street, near Birdcage Walk, to the S. of St. James's Park. Westminster Bridge, Victoria Embankment , at the W. end of Westminster Bridge , station for the Houses of Parliament , West- minster Abbey, etc. From Westminster to Blaekfriars the line runs below the Victoria Embankment (p. 115). Charing Cross , for Charing Cross, Trafalgar Square, National Gallery, and West Strand. Temple, between Somerset House and the Temple, below Waterloo Bridge, station for the Law Courts, Somerset House, and the London School Board Office. Blaekfriars, Bridge Street, adjacent to Blaekfriars Bridge, con- nected by a covered way with the St. Paul's Station of the London, Chatham, & Dover Railway, and near Ludgate Hill Station (p. 34). Mansion House , corner of Cannon Street and Queen Victoria Street, station for St. Paul's. Omnibus to Liverpool Street Station. Cannon Street, below the terminus of the South P^astem Rail- way (covered way), the station nearest the Bank and the Exchange. The Monument, at the corner of Eastcheap, station for the Monument, London Bridge, the Coal Exchange, and the Electric Railway Subway under the Thames (p. 113). Trains run on the main line (_inner circle) in both directions from 6 a.m. to nearly midnight, at intervals of 5-10 min. during the day, and of 15 min. before 8 a.m. or after 8 p.m. The stations generally occupy open sites, and are lighted from above, many of them being roofed with glass. At night some of them are now lighted with electric light. The carriages are comfortable and roomy, and are lighted with gas. The booking-office is generally on a level with the street, at the top of the flight of stairs leading down to the railway. The official who checks the tickets points out the right plat- form , while the tickets themselves are marked with a large red O or I (for 'outer' and 4nner' line of rails) . corresponding with notices in the 38 11. STEAMBOATS. stations. After reaching the platform the traveller had better enquire whe- ther the train for his destination is the first that comes up or one of those that follow, or consult the telegraph-hoard on which the destination of the 'next train' is indicated. It may, however, be useful to know that the trains of the 'inner circle' have one white light on the engine; trains between Hammersmith and New Cross have two smaller white lights to the right in front of the engine, between Hammersmith and Aldgate two white lights to the left in front, and between Richmond and Aldgate two large white lights. The terminus towards which the train is travelling is also generally placarded on the front of the engine. Above the platforms hang boards indicating the points at which the different classes of carriage are drawn up ; the first-class carriages are in the middle of the train. The names of the stations are called out by the porters, and are always painted at different parts of the platform and on the lamps and benches, though frequently difficult to distinguish from the surrounding advertisements. As the stoppages are extremely brief, no time should be lost either in taking seats or alighting. Passengers leave the platform by the 'Way Out', where their tickets are given up. Those who are travelling with through-tickets to a station situated on one of the branch-lines show their tickets at the junction where carriages are changed, and where the officials will indicate the proper train. — Comp. the time-tables of the companies. The fares are extremely moderate, seldom exceeding a shilling even for considerable distances. Return-tickets are issued at a fare and a half. At first, in order to make himself acquainted with the Metropolis, the stranger will naturally prefer to make use of omnibuses and cabs, but when his first curiosity is satisfied he will probably often avail himself of the easy, rapid, and economical mode of travelling afforded by the Metropolitan Railway. Electric Railway. The first electric railway in London was opened in 1890. Stations: City (Cannon Street), Great Dover Street, Elephant and Castle, New Street Station, Kennington Oval, and Stockwell (comp. p. 113). 11. Steamboats. On the Thames "between Hampton Court towards tlie west and Southend and Sheerness on the east, there are about 45 piers or land- ing-places, the larger half of which are on the north or left hank. Above Yauxhall Bridge are Nine Elms , Pimlico , Battersea Park, Cadogan, Chelsea, Battersea Square, Wandsworth, Putney, Ham- mersmith, Kew , Richmond , Teddington, and Hampton Court. Be- tween the bridges , as the reach between Vauxhall Bridge on the west and London Bridge on the east is sometimes called, are the piers at Vauxhall, Lambeth, Westminster, Charing Cross, Waterloo, Temple, Blackfriars, St. PauVs Wharf, and two at London Bridge (one on each bank). Below all the bridges are Cherry Gardens (in no sense corresponding with its name), Thames Tunnel, Globe Stairs, Limehouse, West India Docks, Commercial Docks, Millwall, Greenwich, Isle of Dogs, Cubitt Town, Blackwall, Charlton, Wool- wich, North Woolwich, Erith, Greenhithe, Rosherville, Gravesend, Southend, and Sheerness, where the Nore light-ship is reached, and the estuary of the Thames expands into the German Ocean. Some of the larger steamers from London Bridge extend their trips to Margate, Ramsgate, Clacton-on-Sea , Deal, Dover , Walton-on-the- Naze, Harwich, Ipswich, and Yarmouth. 12. THEATRES. 39 Steamers of the Victoeia Steamboat Association ply in summer every ten minutes between London Bridge (Old Swan Pier) and Chelsea, calling at intermediate stations (fares '/2-2cf. according to distance), every V2 hr. between Greenwich and Westminster (fare Sd.), and every 1/2 l^'"' between Chelsea (Cadogan Pier) and Kew (fare Qd.). The longer trips (fares 6d.-3«.6d.) are advertised from time to time in the newspapers. The steamers may also be hired for excursion-parties at prices ranging from 101. to 66^ per day. A steamer of the 'Belle' Steamers Company leaves London Bridge (Fresh wharf) daily except Fridays for Greenwich., Blackwall, Woolwich, Gravesend, Clacton , and Southend. At Clacton steamers are changed for Felixstowe, Harioich. ;ind Ipswich. On Sundays and holy days the fare is raised for most of the shorter trips. Although the steamers cannot all be described as comfortable, they at any rate afford an excellent survey of the traflic on the Thames 'below bridge' and of the smiling beauties of its banks 'above'. 12. Theatres, Music Halls, and other Entertainments. The performance at most of tlie London theatres begins about 7.30 or 8 and lasts till 11 p. m. The ticket-office is usually opened half-an-hour before the performance. Many theatres also give so- called 'morning performances' or 'matinees', beginning about 2.30 or 3 p.m. For details consult the notices 'under the clock' {i.e. im- mediately before the summaries and leaders) in the daily papers. London possesses 50-60 theatres and about 600 music halls, which are visited by 325,0U0 people nightly or nearly 100,000,000 yearly. A visit to the whole of the theatres of London, which, however, could only be managed in the course of a prolonged sojourn, would give the traveller a capital insight into the social life of the people throughout all its gra- dations. Copies of the play are often sold at the theatres for 6d. or Is. At some of the better theatres all extra fees have been abolished, but many of them still maintain the objectionable custom of charging for programmes, the care of wraps, etc. Opera glasses may be hired for is. or Is. 6d. from the attendants; in some theatres the gla.'^ses are placed in automatic boxes attached to the backs of the seats and opened by dropping a shilling in the slot. French (late Lacy), 89 Strand, is the chief theatrical bookseller. The best seats are the Stalls, next to the Orchestra, and the Dress Circle. On the occasion of popular performances tickets for these places are often not to be had at the door on entering, but must be secured previously at the Box Office of the theatre. The office always contains a plan of the theatre, showing the positions of the seats. Tickets for the opera and for most of the theatres may also be obtained at MitchelVs, 33 Old Bond Street; Lacon & Oilier, 168 New Bond Street; Ollivier, 38 Old Bond Street; Hays, 4 Royal Exchange Buildings; Keith, Prowse, tb Co., 48 Cheapside , 218 High Plolborn, Langham Hotel, 148 Fenchurch Street, 2 Army and Navy Buildings, Victoria -Street, and Hotel Metropole, North- umberland Avenue, Charing Cross; Cramer, Regent Street; Tree''s Ticket Office, St. James's Hall, Piccadilly, and elsewhere, at charges somewhat higher as a rule than at the theatres themselves, but occasionally lower. Single box seats can generally be obtained at the door as well as at the box- office, except when the boxes are let for the season. Those who have not taken their tickets in advance should be at the door half-an-hour before the beginning of the performance, with, if pos- sible, the exact price of their ticket in readiness. (This is scarcely ever necessary in regard to the dearest seats.) All the theatres are closed on Good Friday and Christmas Day, and many of them throughout the whole of Passion Week. Evening dress is not now compulsory in any of the London theatres, but is customary in the stalls and dress circle and de rigueur in most parts of the opera-houses during the opera season. 40 12. THEATRES. The chief London theatres are the follo-vving, hut many of them are closed in August and September. Royal Italian Opera, or Covent Garden Theatre, on the W. side of Bow Street, Long Acre, the third theatre on the same site, was built in 1858 by Barry. It accommodates an audience of 3500 persons, being nearly as large as the Scala at Milan, and has a handsome Corinthian colonnade. This house was originally sacred to Italian opera, but is now used for promenade concerts in autumn and for fancy dress balls, etc. in winter. Boxes l^l^-l gui- neas, orchestra stalls 2l5., amphitheatre stalls 10s. 6rf. and 55, amphitheatre 23. 6d. Performance commences at 8 or 8.30 p.m. Operas have also been given here at 'theatre' prices — i.e. about 50 per cent, lower than those just mentioned. In winter, stalls 6s., stage stalls 4s., grand circle 2s. 6d., balcony stalls 28., promenade Is. Drury Lane Theatre , between Drury Lane and Brydges Street, near Covent Garden, where Garrick, Kean, the Kembles, and Mrs. Siddons used to act. Shakspeare's plays, comedies, spectacular plays, English opera, etc. Pantomime in winter. Stalls 10s., dress circle 7s. &6s., first circle 5s. and 4s., balcony 3s., pit 2s., gallery Is., second gallery 6c?. No fees. The vestibule contains a statue of Kean as Hamlet, by Carew, and others. Lyceum Theatre, Strand, corner of Wellington Street. Shak- spearian pieces , comedies , etc. (Mr. Henry Irving and Miss Ellen Terry). Stalls 10s. 6(i., dress circle 6s. 6d., upper circle 4s., amphi- theatre 2s. 6d., pit 2s., gallery Is. No fees. Haymarket Theatre, at the S. end of the Haymarket. English comedy. Stalls 10s., 6d., balcony stalls 7s., balcony 5s,, pit-circle 2s. 6d., upper boxes 2s., gallery Is. No fees. St. James's Theatre, King Street, St. James's Square. Come- dies and society plays. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 6s. 6d., upper circle 4s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. No fees. Savoy Theatre, Savoy Place, Strand (electric light). English comic operas and operettas. Stalls 10s. 6d., balcony 78. 6d. and 6s., first circle 48., pit 2s. 6cZ., amphitheatre 2s., gallery Is. No fees. Princess's Theatre, 150 Oxford Street, between Oxford Circus and Tottenham Court Road. Comedies , society plays , operettas, etc. Stalls 10s., dress circle 6s., boxes 3s., pit 2s., amphitheatre Is. 6d., gallery Is. Royal Adelphi Theatre, 411 Strand (N. side), near Bedford Street. Melodramas and farces. Stalls 10s., dress circle 5s., upper circle 38., pit 2s., gallery Is. Royal Strand Theatre, Strand, near Somerset House. Come- dies, opera-bouffes, and burlesques. Stalls lOs. 6d., dress circle 6s. , boxes 4s., pit 2s., amphitheatre Is. Gaiety Theatre, 345 Strand. Comedies, operettas, farces. Orchestra stalls lOs. 6d., balcony stalls 6s. & 7«., upper boxes 48., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. No fees. 12. THEATRES. 41 Op^ka Comique, 299 Strand. Operettas, etc. Stalls lOs. 6d., balcony stalls 7s. Qd. and 65., boxes 4s,, upper circle and pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. This theatre is built end to end with the Globe (see below), and like it is partly below the level of the street. Vaudeville Theatee, 404 Strand. Comedies, farces, and bur- lesques. Stalls 10s., dress circle 7s. & 6s., boxes 4s., upper circle 2s. 6d., pit 2s., gallery Is. Globe Theatre, Newcastle Street, Strand. Operettas, come- dies, etc. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 6s., upper boxes 4s., pit 2s., gallery Is. No fees. Royal Coue,t Theatre, Sloane Square, Chelsea. Comedies, farces, etc. Stalls 10s. Qd., dress circle 78. 6d., upper circle 4s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. No fees. Criterion Theatre, Piccadilly East. Comedies, society plays, farces, etc. (Mr. Charles Wyndham). Stalls 10s. 6d. , dress circle 7s., family circle 3s., gallery Is. Toole's Theatre, King William Street, Strand. Burlesques, etc. (Mr. Toole). Stalls 10s., dress circle 4s. & 6s., upper circle 3s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. Garrick Theatre, Charing Cross Road. Comedies and dramas (Mr. John Hare). Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 7s., upper boxes 4s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. Shaetesbury Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue. Comedies, etc. Stalls 10s., balcony stalls 6s., upper circle 85., pit 2s., amphi- theatre Is. 6d., gallery Is. Lyric Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue. Comedy-operas. Stalls 10s. 6a!., balcony stalls 7s. Qd. and 6s., circle 4s., pit 2s. 6(Z., gallery Is. Daly's Theatre, Cranbourn St., Leicester Square. Shak- spearian pieces , comedies , etc. (Daly Company with Miss Ada Rehan in the season). Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 6s., upper circle 4s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery Is. Terry's Theatre, 105 Strand. Comedies, domestic dramas, etc. (Mr. Edward Terry). Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 73. 6d. and 6s., upper boxes 4s., pit 2s. 6d., gallery is. Avenue Theatre, Northumberland Avenue. Operettas. Stalls 10s. 6d., dress circle 7s. Qd. and 6s. (last row 4s.), upper boxes 3s., pit 2s., gallery Is. Trafalgar Theatre, St. Martin's Lane, near Trafalgar Square. Comedies, dramas, etc. Stalls 10s. Qd., dress circle 7s. Qd., upper boxes 3s., pit 2s. Qd., gallery Is. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry Street, Haymarket. Comedies, operettas, etc. Stalls 10s. Qd., pit 2s. Qd. , gallery Is. Royal Olympic Theatre, Wych Street, Strand. Comedies, farces, and extravaganzas. Stalls 10s., dress circle 6s., pit 2s. Royal Comedy Theatre, Panton Street , Haymarket. Comic operas. Prices from Is. to U. 4s. Royalty Theatre, 73 Dean Street, Soho. Burlesques, farces, 42 12. THEATRES. and opera-bouffes. Stalls 10a, 6d., dress circle 65. and 5s., pit 2a., gallery la. Geand Thbatee, High Street, Islington. Comedies, melodra- mas, operettas, etc. ; pantomime in winter. Stalls 45., balcony 25., dress circle 3s., pit stalls Is. Qd., pit Is., gallery 6d. National Standard Theatre, 204 Shoreditch High Street. Popular pieces. Stalls 4s., balcony 3s., lower circle 2s., upper boxes Is. Gd., pit stalls Is., gallery Qd. Mae,ylebone Theatre, Church Street, near Edgware Road Sta- tion. Dramas and farces. Stalls and boxes 2s,, pit 6d., gallery M. Pavilion Theatre, Whitechapel, with accommodation for nearly 4000 persons. Nautical dramas, melodramas, farces. Admission la. Qd., Is., 6d., and 8d. Imperial.Thbatre, Royal Aquarium, Westminster (seep. 225). Comedies , burlesques , and farces. Stalls 7s. , dress circle 5s., boxes 3s., pit 2a., amphitheatre Is. Royal Surrey Theatre, 124 Blackfriars Road. Melodramas and farces. Admission 2s. Od,, 2s., Is., 6d., Ad. Britannia Theatre, Hoxton Street, in the N.E, of London, holding nearly 3400 persons. Melodramas. Admission 2a., la., 6d., and 3d. Elephant and Castle Theatre, New Kent Road. Popular performances. Prices 3d. to 2s. Parkhurst Theatre, Camden Road, at the corner of Holloway Road. Melodramas, comedies, etc. Adm. Qd. to 5a, Music Halls, Variety Entertainments, Public Gardens. Alhambra, Leicester Square (elaborate ballets). Begins at 7.30 p.m. Fauteuils 5a,, stalls and promenade 3s., grand balcony 2s. pit stalls Is. Empire Theatre of Varieties, Leicester Square (also with good ballets). Prices 6s., 5s,, 3s., 2s., Is., Qd. Palace Theatre of Varieties, Cambridge Circus, Shaftesbury Avenue. Begins at 7.30 p.m. Prices 5s., 4s,, 3a,, 25,, la,, Qd. London Pavilion, Piccadilly. Begins at 7,30 p,m. Prices Is., Is. 6rf., 3s,, 5s. Tivoli Theatre of Varieties, Strand. Begins at 7,30 p.m. Prices 4s., 3s., 2s., Is. Trocadero (late Argyll Rooms'), Great Windmill Street, Shaf- tesbury Avenue. Admission Is., 2s., 3s. Performance at 7.30 p.m. The Oxford, 14 Oxford Street, Begins at 7,15 p.m. Adm.6c?.to2s. Metropolitan Music Hall, 267 Edgware Road. Begins at 8 p.m. Adm. Qd. to 2s. Eden Palace of Varieties, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. Sadler's Wblls Theatre, St. John Street Road, Clerkenwell. Variety entertainment. Begins at 7.30 p,m. Prices Ad. to Is. Qd. 12. ENTERTAINMENTS. 43 Royal Music Hall, 242 High Holborn. Begins at 7.30 p.m. Prices from Gd. Canterbury Theatre of Varieties, 143 Westminster Bridge Road. Entertainment begins at 7.40 p.m. Adm. from Qd. Royal Victoria Coffee Music Hall, Waterloo Bridge Road, Lambeth, formerly the Victoria Palace Theatre. Open at 7 p.m. Prices from M. to 10s. Gd. (private box). Paragon Theatre of Varieties , Mile End Road. Begins at 7.80 p.m. Admission from Gd. upwards. Foresters' Hall, 93 Cambridge Road, E. Cambridge Hall of Varieties, 136 Commercial Street, E. Adm. from Sd. CoLLiNs's Music Hall, Islington Green, near the Royal Agri- cnltural Hall. South London Palace of Amusements, 92 London Road, St. George's Fields, near the Elephant and Castle. Concerts, ballets, etc. This is the largest concert room in London, seating 5000 persons. Admission 2s.. Is. Gd., Is., Gd., and 3d. RosHERViLLE GARDENS, Giavesend. Music, dancing, theatre, zoological collection. Admission 6d. Reached by rail or steamer. Open in summer only. Wembley Park, to the N.W. of London. Music, boating on artificial lake, various outdoor amusements, and occasionally fire- v9'orks. Wembley Tower now building. Admission Gd. Reached by train from Baker St. Station (see p. 36). WooDHOusE Park, close to Uxbridge Road and Shepherd's Bush stations. Reproduction of Stonehenge, captive balloon, illuminations, lawn tennis, etc. Admission Gd. Exhibitions and Entertainments, Madame Tussaud's Waxwork Exhibition, Marylebone Road near Baker Street Station, a well-known and interesting collection of wax figures of ancient and modern notabilities. The best time for visiting it is in the evening, by gaslight. Admission Is. — At the back (Gd. extra) is a room with various memorials of Napoleon I. (including his travelling carriage, captured by the Prussians at Genappe, and bought by Madame Tussaud for 2500^.), and also the ^Chamber of Horrors\ containing casts and portraits of executed criminals , the guillotine which decapitated Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, and other articles of a like ghastly nature. Mme. Tussaud, a Swiss by birth, came to London in 1802, lost her first collection of waxworks by shipwreck on the way to Ireland, started a new one, and died in London in 1850 at the age of ninety. The ex- hibition is still under the management of her great-grandson. Mr. and Mrs. German Reed's Dramatic and Musical Enter- tainment, St. George's Hall, 4 Langham Place. Adm. l-5s. Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, opposite Burlington Arcade. Mas- 44 13. CONCERTS. kelyne and Cooke's conjuring and illusionary performances (at 3 and 8 p.m.; 5s., 3s., 2s., Is.), concerts, art exhibitions, etc. Moore and Buegess Minsteels, St. James's Hall, Regent Street and Piccadilly. Adm. 5s., 3s., 2s. and Is. At 8p.m. daily; and on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays at 3 p.m. also. Royal Aquarium and Summer and Winter Garden, Broad Sanctuary, Westminster (p. 225). Theatre, concerts, ballets, acro- batic, pantomimic, and conjuring performances. Adm. Is. Yarious side-shows extra. Crystal Palace, Sydenham (p, 317). Occasional exhibitions, dog-shows, cat-shows, poultry-shows, etc.; Pantomine in winter. Olympia, opposite the Addison Road Station, Kensington, a huge amphitheatre, holding 10,000 people, for spectacular perform- ances, shows, exhibitions, etc., with restaurants, etc. (In 1894, 'Constantinople in London'; open at 12 noon and 6 p.m. ; adm. Is., 2s., 3s., 4s., 5s.). Agricultural Hall, Liverpool Road, Islington. Cattle shows, military tournaments (notably the Royal Military Tournament in June), lectures, dioramas, concerts, etc. — The Mohawk Minstrels (Christy Minstrels) also give their entertainments here. Niagara Hall, York Street, Westminster (near St. James's Park Station). Skating-rink of real ice. The large open space between West Kensington, EarFs Court, and West Brompton stations (see PI. G, 1, 2) is used for Exhibitions of various kinds (in 1894 Industrial Exhibition). 13. Concerts and Exhibitions of Pictures. Concerts. St. James's Hall, with entrances from the Regent Street Quadrant and Piccadilly, used for concerts, balls, and public meet- ings. Among the concerts given here are those of the Musical Union ^ those of the Sacred Harmonic Society (oratorios), and the favourite Monday and Saturday Popular Concerts, held every Monday evening at 8 o'clock and every Saturday afternoon at 3 o'clock during the winter season, at which classical music is performed by eminent artistes. Admission to the last-named concerts : stalls 5s., front gallery 3s., other parts of the hall Is. Queen's Hall, Langham Place W,, a large hall (3000 seats), opened in 1893, with a painted ceiling. Among the concerts given here are the Philharmonic Concerts, in May and June, and the Sym- phony Concerts (Mr. Henschel), in winter. Royal Albert Hall, South Kensington (p. 280), for musical fetes and concerts on a large scale, but at uncertain intervals. Crystal Palace, Sydenham (p. 317); numerous concerts by a good orchestra and celebrated artistes. Agricultural Hall, Islington. Occasional concerts, which are advertised in the daily papers. 14. EXHIBITIONS OF PICTURES. 45 St. Georgb's Hall, 4 Langham Place, W. Steinway Hall, Lower Seymour Street, Portman Square. Store Street Hall, Store Street, Bedford Square. Princess's Concert Room, at the back of tlie Princess's Theatre (p. 40); occasional concerts. Grafton Hall, Grafton Street, New Bond Street. Princes' Hall, Piccadilly, opposite Sackville Street. International Hall, above the Cafe Monico (p. 12). Exhibitions of Pictures. Royal Academy op Fine Arts , Burlington House , Piccadilly (p. 229). Exhibition of the works of living British painters and sculptors , from first Monday in May to first Monday in August. Open daily 8-7; admission Is., catalogue Is. During the last week open also from 7.30 to 10.30 p.m. ; admission 6d Exhibition of the works of Ancient Masters in January and February. Diploma and Gibson galleries, open throughout the year (see p. 229 ; en- trance to the right of the main entrance). The New Gallery, 121 Regent Street. Summer and winter exhibitions. Admission Is. Royal Society of Painters in Water-Colours, 5 Pall Mall East. Open from Easter to the end of July, and from December to March; admission Is., catalogue Is. Royal Institute of Painters in Water - Colours , Picca - dilly Galleries, 191 Piccadilly. Exhibitions from Easter to the end of July [9-6 ; Is.) and from 1st Dec. to end of Feb. (10-4 ; Is.). Society of British Artists, 6 Suffolk Street, Pall Mall. Exhi- bitions from 1st April to 1st Aug. (9-6) and from 1st Dec. to Ist March (9-5). Admission Is. Society op Lady Artists. Summer exhibition in the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly; admission Is., catalogue 6d. Grafton Gallery, Grafton Street, Bond Street. Occasional exhibitions. Gallery of Sacred Art , 35 New Bond Street, chiefly con- taining paintings by the late Edwin Long, R. A. Daily, 10-6; Is. There are also in winter and spring various exhibitions of French, Belgian, German, and other paintings at 120 Pall Mall (French Gallery), 39 Old Bond Street (Agnew's), 47 New Bond Street (Hanover Gallery), 116 & 117 New Bond Street (Goupil Gallery), 148 New Bond Street (Fine Art Society), 5 Haymarket (Mr. Tooth), 7 Haymarket (Maclean's), the Conduit Street Galleries (Nineteenth Century Art Society), the St. James's Gallery, King Street (Mr. Mendoza), etc. Usual charge Is. 46 14. Eaces, Sports, and Games. Horse - Racing. The principal race-meetings taking place within easy distance of London are the following : — 1. The Epsom Summer Meeting, at which the Derby and Oaks are run. The former invariably takes place on a "Wednesday, and the latter on a Friday, the date heing generally within a fortnight before or after Whitsuntide. The Derby was instituted by the Earl of Derby in 1780, and the value of the stakes now sometimes exceeds 6000L The length of the course is IV2 M., and it was gone over by Kettledrum in 1861 in 2 min. 43 sec, the shortest time on record. Both horses and mares are allowed to compete for the Derby (mares carrying 3^6. less weight), while the Oaks is confined to mares. In both cases the age of the horses running must be three years. To view these races London empties itself annually by road and rail, even Parliament suspending its sitting on Derby Day, in spite of the ever recurring opposition. The London and Brighton Railway Company (London Bridge and Victoria stations) have a station at Epsom close to the course, and this is the most convenient route. It may also be reached by the London and South Western Railway from Waterloo. The increased facilities of reaching Epsom by train have somewhat diminished the popularity of the road; but the traveller who would see the Derby Day and its characteristic sights thoroughly will not regret his choice if he select the latter. A decently appointed open carriage and pair, holding four persons, will cost 8-10/., everything in- cluded. A hansom cab can be had for rather less than half that amount, but an arrangement should be made with the driver on the previous day. The appearance of Epsom Downs on Derby Day, crowded with myriads of human beings, is one of the most striking and animated sights ever witnessed in the neighbourhood of London, and will interest the ordinary visitor more than the great race itself. 2. The Ascot Week is about a fortnight after the Derby. The Gold Cup Day is on Thursday, when some members of the Royal Family usually drive up the course in state, attended by the master and huntsmen of the Royal Buckhounds. The course is reached by train from Waterloo ; or the visitor may travel by the Great Western Railway (Paddington Station) to Windsor and drive thence to Ascot. 3. At Sandown^ near Esher, and at Kempton Park, Sunbury, races and steeplechases are held several times during the year. 4. The Epsom Spring Meeting, lasting for three days, on one of which the City and Suburban Handicap is decided. Besides the above there are numerous smaller race-meetings near London, but with the exception of that at Croydon they will hardly repay the trouble of a visit, as they are largely patronised by the 'rough' ele- ment. The stranger should, if possible, attend races and other public gatherings in company with a friend who is well acquainted with the best method of seeing the sport. Much trouble and disappointment will he thereby avoided. Newmarket, the headquarters of racing, is situated on the Great Eastei-n Railway, at some distance from London. Racing at Newmarket is a busi- ness, and does not offer the same attractions to a visitor as at Epsom or Ascot (comp. Baedeker's Great Britain). — Ooodtoood Races, see Baedeker''s Oreat Britain. Hunting. This sport is carried on throughout England from autumn to spring. Cub -hunting generally begins in September and continues until Slst Oct. Regular fox-hunting then takes its 14. RACES, SPORTS, GAMES. 47 place and lasts till about the middle of April. Hare-hunting lasts from 28th Oct. to 27th Feb., and buck-hunting begins on 14th Sept. Should the traveller be staying in the country he will probably bave but little difficulty in seeing a meet of a pack of fox-hounds. The Surrey fox-hounds are the nearest to London. There is a pack of harriers at Brighton. The Royal Buckhounds often meet in the vicinity of Windsor, and when this is the case the journey can be easily made from London. The quarry is a stag, which is allowed to escape from a cart. The huntsmen and whippers-in wear a scarlet and gold uniform. The followers of the hounds wear scarlet, black, and indeed any colour, and this diversity, coupled with the large attendance in carriages, on foot, and on horseback, makes the scene a very lively one. For meets of hounds, see the Field. Fishing (roach, perch, gudgeon, pike, barbel, and trout) can be indulged in at all places on the T/iames between Richmond and Wallingford. No permission is required, except in private waters. The services of a fisherman, who will furnish a punt and all tackle, can be secured at a charge of about 10s. per day, the hirer provid- ing him with dinner and beer. The Lea (p. 344), Darent, Brent., Colne, etc., also afford good opportunities to the London angler. See the Angler s Diary (Field Office, 346 Strand; Is. 6d.) or Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is.), and compare pp. 343, 344. Cricket. Lord's at St. John's Wood (p. 241), the headquarters of the Marylebone Club, is the chief cricket ground in London. Here are played, in June and July, the Eton and Harrow, and the Oxford and Cambridge matches, besides many others. The Kenning- ton Oval (p. 304), the headquarters of the Surrey County Club, is also an important cricket-centre. Racket and Tennis Courts are attached to both these grounds. Golf. Golf, which is in season all the year round , has become exceedingly popular in England within the last few years. Near London there are golfing- courses at Wimbledon., Tooting, Chingford, Northwood, and more than a score of other places. Football. Football is in season from about the beginning of October to the end of March. The chief matches under tbe Rugby Football Union rules are played at the Rectory Field, Blackheath (headquarters of the Blackheath Football Glnh) ; Brondesbury (Lon- don Scottish Club) ; and Richmond Old Deer Park (Richmond Club). Kennington Oval (see above) is the scene of the best matches under the Football Association rules. Athletics. The chief scene of athletic sports of all kinds is Stamford Bridge, on the Fulham Road, where the London Athletic Club has its headquarters. The Amateur Championships of the United Kingdom are decided here when these sports are held in London (every third year). The University Sports, between Oxford and Cambridge, take place at Queen's Ground, Kensington, in the Boat Race week (see p. 48). The card comprises nine 'events', and 48 14. RACES, SPORTS, GAMES. the university whose representatives secure the majority is the winner. The German Gymnastic Society, 26 Pancras Road, King's Cross, takes the lead among all gymnastic clubs; ahout half of its 7-800 members are English. The Am,ateur Athletic Association consists of representatives of the leading athletic clubs. Boxing. Among the chief boxing clubs in London are the West London Boxing Club and the Cestus Boxing Club, and there are also boxing clubs in connection with the German Gymnastic Society, the London Athletic Club, etc. Most of these are affiliated to the Ama- teur Boxing Association. A competition for amateur boxers is held yearly, the prizes being handsome challenge cups presented by the Marquis of Queensberry. Lawn Tennis. The governing and controlling body for this pastime is the Lawn Tennis Association (sec, Mr. H. Chipp), established in 1888. The Lawn Tennis Championship of the World is competed for early in July on the ground of the All England Lawn Tennis Club, Wimbledon, and other important competitions take place at Stamford Bridge, Hyde Park (Covered Court Cham- pionship), etc. Courts open to strangers are found at the Crystal Palace, Battersea Park, and other public gardens, drill-halls, etc., but as a rule this game cannot be enjoyed to perfection except in club or private grounds. Cycling. There are now a great many bicycling and tricycling clubs in London, the oldest of which was founded in 1870. The chief bicycle race-meetings are held at the Alexandra Park, Stam- ford Bridge, Surbition, and the Crystal Palace. The annual muster of the clubs sometimes attracts thousands of cyclists. The headquarters of the National Cyclists" Union are at 57 Basin ghall Street, E. C. fsec, Mr. Finlay Macrae), and those of the Ciiclists'' Touring Club are at 139 Fleet Street (sec, Mr. E. R. Shipton). The chief consul for the foreign district of the latter club is Mr. S. A. Stead, 19 Tabley Road, Holloway. An exhibition of bicycles, tricycles, and their accessories, called the Stanley Show, is held in London annually. Compare the Cycling Times (Whitefriars Street) or the Monthly Gazette of the Cyclists' Touring Club. Aquatics. The chief event in the year is the Oxford and Cam- bridge Boat Race , usually rowed on the second Saturday before Easter. The course is on the Thames , from Putney to Mortlake ; the distance is just over 41/4 M., and the time occupied in rowing it varies from just under 20 min. to 23 min., according to the state of the wind and tide. The Londoners pour out to see the boat-race in almost as great crowds as to the Derby, sympatheti- cally exhibiting in some portion of their attire either the dark blue colours of Oxford or the light blue of Cambridge. — There are also several regattas held upon the Thames. The best are those at Henley (at the end of June or the beginning of July) , Marlow, Staines, and Walton. To Henley crews are usually sent from the universities of Oxford, Cambridge, and Dublin, by Eton College, and by the London Rowing Club , the Leander, the Thames Club, and other clubs of more or less note. Crews from American uni- 15. EMBASSIES. 49 versities sometimes take part in the proceedings. On Aug. 1st a boat-race takes place among young Thames watermen iox DoggeU's Coal and Badge, a prize founded by Doggett, the comedian, in 1715. The course is from Old Swan Pier, London Bridge, to the site of the Old Swan at Chelsea, about 5 miles. Yacht races are held at the mouth of the Thames during summer. See the Rowing Al- manack (Is. ; Field Office, 346 Strand) or Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is.). Swimming. Among the most important of the numerous swimm- ing clubs in London, most of which belong to the Swimming Asso- ciation of Great Britain (sec, Mr. Barron, Goswell Hall, Goswell Road, E.G.), the most important are the Ilex and the Otter. The races for the amateur championship of Great Britain take place at the "Welsh Harp, Hendon (p. 345), and those for the professional championship in the Thames at Putney. The races are swum in 'university costume', and may be witnessed by ladies. 15. Embassies and Consulates. Bankers. Embassies. America, United States of. Embassy, 123 Victoria Street, S.W. (office -hours 11-3); minister, Hon. Thomas F. Bayard. Consulate, 12 St. Helen's Place, Bishopsgate, E. C. ; consul, Patrick Collins, Esq. Austria. Embassy, 18 Belgrave Square. Consulate, 11 Queen Victoria Street, E.C. Belgium. Legation, 36 Grosvenor Gardens, S.W. Consulate, 118 Bishopsgate Street Within, E.C. Brazil. Legation, 55 Curzon Street, W. Consulate, 6 Great Win- chester Street, E.C. China. Legation, 49 Portland Place, W. Denmark. Legation, 24 Pont Street, S.W. Consulate, 5 Muscovy Court, Tower Hill, E. C. France. Embassy, Albert Gate House, Hyde Park, General Con- sulate, 38 Finsbury Circus. Germany. Embassy, 9 Carlton House Terrace. General Consulate, 5 Blomfleld Street, London Wall, E. C. Greece. Legation, Albemarle Hotel, Piccadilly, W. Consulate, 19 Great Winchester Street, E.C. Italy. Embassy, 20 Grosvenor Square, W. General Consulate, 31 Old Jewry. Japan. Legation, 8 Sussex Square, Hyde Park, W. Consulate, 84 Bishopsgate Street Within, E. C. Netherland,s . Legation, 40 Grosvenor Gardens. Consulate, 40 Fins- bury Circus, E. C. Persia. Legation, 30 Ennismore Gardens, 1 Drapers' Gardens, Throgmorton Avenue, E. C. Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 4 50 16. BANKERS. Portugal. Legation, 12 Gloucester Place, Portman Square, W. Consulate, 3 Throgmorton Avenue, E. C. Russia. Embassy, Chesham House, Belgrave Square. Consulate, 17 Great Winchester Street, City. Spain. Embassy, 1 Grosvenor Gardens, W. Consulate, 21 Billiter Street, E. C. Sweden and Norway. Legation, 52 Pont Street, S.W., Consulate, 24 Great Winchester Street, E. C. Switzerland. Legation and Consulate, 76 Victoria Street, S.W. Turkey. Embassy, 1 Bryanston Square. Consulate, 7 Union Court, Old Broad Street, E. C. Bankers. Private Banks: — Messrs. Barclay^ Bevan, ^^ Co., 54 Lom- bard Street and 1 Pall Mall East ; Child , 1 Fleet Street ; Coutts, 56-59 Strand; Drummond. 49 Charing Cross; Glyn, Mills, S' Co.^ 67 Lombard Street; Herries, Farquhar, ^ Co., 16 St. James's Street; Hoare ^' Co., 37 Fleet Street; Robarts, Lubbock, ^' Co., 15 Lombard Street; Smith, Payne, 4' Smiths^ 1 Lombard Street, etc. Joint Stock Banks : — London and County, 21 Lombard Street ; London Joint Stock, 5 Prince's Street, Bank ; London and Provin- cial, 7 Bank Buildings ; London and South Western, 170 Fenchurch Street ; London and Westminster, 41 Lothbury ; Union Bank of London, 2 Prince's Street, Mansion House, E.C. ; Lloyds, 72 Lom- bard Street ; Williams Deacon, <^' Manchester ^ Salford Bank, 20 Birchin Lane; etc. Ambbican Banks : — Brown, Shipley, S,' Co., Founders' Court, Lothbury, E.C; Baring Brothers, 7-9 Bishopsgate Street Within, E.C; J. S. Morgan ^ Co. (Drexel ^ Co.), 22 Old Broad Street, E. C ; Knauth, Nachod, ^ Kilhne, at the Alliance Bank, Bar- tholomew Lane, E. C. All the banking companies have branch-offices in different parts of London, some as many as fifteen or twenty. Monet-Changbrs. Osftorne (f- GaZ^, 264 Strand ; Reinhardt^- Co., 14 Coventry Street ; Whiteley , 31-61 Westbourne Grove ; Smart, 19 Westbourne Grove; Cook's Tourist Offices, Ludgate Circus, 445 Strand, 35 Piccadilly, 82 Oxford Street, Euston Road [in front of St. Pancras Station), and at the corner of Gracechurch Street and Leadenhall Street; Gaze's Tourist Office, 142 Strand; United States Exchange (p. 16); Lady Guide Association (p. 56). 16. Divine Service. To enable visitors belonging to different religious denominations to attend their respective places of worship, a list is here given of the principal churches in London. The denominations are ar- ranged in alphabetical order. The chief edifices of the Church of England are noticed throughout the Handbook. 16. DIVINE SERVICE. 51 There are about 800 churches of the Church of England in London or its immediate vicinity, of which 100 are parish churches in the City, 50 parish churches in the Metropolitan district beyond, and 250 ecclesi- astical parish or district churches or chapels, some connected with asy- lums, missions, etc. Of the Nonconformist churches, which amount to about 600 in all, 240 are Independent, 130 Baptist, 150 Wesleyan, and 50 Roman Catholic. — The hours named after each church are those of divine service on Sundays; when no hour is specified it is understood that the hours of the regular Sunday services are 11 a.m. and 6. 30 p.m. Many of the Saturday morning and evening papers give a list of the principal preachers on Sunday. Baptist Chapels: — Metropolitan Tabernacle, Newington Butts, close to the Elephant and Castle (p. 3U9}, the church of the late Rev. C. H. Spurgeon ; services at 11 and 6.30. — Bloomsbury Chapel, Bloomshury Street; Oxford Street; services at 11 and 7. — •Park Square Chapel, Regent's Park; services at 11 and 7. Catholic Apostolic Churches: — Gordon Square, Euston Road ; services at 6, 10, 2, and 5. — College Street, Chelsea ; ser- vices at 6, 10, 5, and 7. — Duncan Street, Islington. CoNGREGATiONALisTS or INDEPENDENTS : City Temple, Holborn Viaduct (Dr. Parker); services at 11 and 7 (lecture on Thurs. at noon). — Union Chapel, Islington. — Westminster Chapel, James Street, Westminster. — Weigh House Chapel, Duke Street, Gros- venor Square ; 11 and 7. — Kensington Chapel, Allen Street, Kens- ington. — Christ Church, Westminster Bridge Road ; the tower and spire of this church were built by Americans in London as a mem- orial of Abraham Lin'.oln. Friends or Quakers: — Meeting-houses at 52 St. Martin's Lane, Trafalgar Square, and Devonshire House, 12 Bishopsgate Street; services at 11 and 6. Independents, see Congregationalists. Irvingites, see Catholic Apostolic Churches. Jews : — Great Central Synagogue, 129 Great Portland Street. — New Synagogue, Great St. Helen's, St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall Street. — West London Synagogue, 34 Upper Berkeley Street, Edgware Road. — Great Synagogue (German) , 52 New Bond Street, City. — Bayswater Synagogue , Chichester Place , Harrow Road ; West End Synagogue, St. Petersburg Place, Bayswater Road. — Service begins at sunset on Fridays. Methodists, a. Wesleyan Methodists : — Wesley s Chapel, 47 City Road ; Great Queen Street Chapel, Lincoln's Inn Fields ; Fins- bury Park Chapel, Wilberforce Road; Hinde Street Chapel, Man- chester Square ; Mostyn Road Chapel, Brixton Road ; Feckham Cha- pel, Queen's Road, Peckham ; Welsh Wesleyan Chapel, 57 City Road. — b. Other Methodists : — Brunswick Chapel (New Connexion), 156 Great Dover Street, Southwark; Elim Chapel (Primitive Me- thodists), Fetter Lane, Fleet Street; United Methodist Free Chapel, Willow Street, Tabernacle Square, Moorgate ; United Free Chapel, Queen's Road, Bayswater. New Jerusalem or Swbdenborgian Churches : — Palace 52 16. DIVINE SERVICE. Gardens Terrace, Kensington. — Argyle Square, King's Cross. — Camden Road, Holloway. — College Chapel, DevonsMre Street, Islington. — Flodden Road, Camberwell. Services at 11 and 7. Presbyterians : — Scottish National Church (Churcli of Scot- land}, Pont Street, Belgravia; 11 and 7. — Regent Square Church, Regent's Square, Gray's Inn Road ; services at 11 and 7. — Maryle- bone Churchy Upper George Street, Bryanston Square, Edgware Road, — St. John's Wood Presbyterian Church, Marlborough Place, St. John's Wood (Dr. Munro Gibson). — Welsh Calvinist Chapel, Cam- bridge Circus, Charing Cross Road. Roman Catholics : — St. George's Cathedral , Westminster Bridge Road (see p. 311) ; various services. — Pro- Cathedral, New- land Terrace, Kensington Road ; services at 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 4, and 7. — Oratory, Brompton Road; services at Q^/2-ii, 3.30, and 7. — Berkeley Mews Chapel (Jesuits), Farm Street, Berkeley Square. — St. Mary's Chapel, Moorflelds. — St. Mary of the Angels, Westmore- land Road , Bayswater. — St. Etheldreda's , Ely Place, Holborn ; principal services at 11.15 and 7. — St. Patrick's, Sutton Street, Soho Square. — St. Joseph's Retreat (Passionist Fathers), Highgate Hill. — St. Dominic 3 Priory, Southampton Road, N.W.; services at 11 and 7. — High Mass usually begins at 11 a.m., and Vespers at 7 p.m. SwEDBNBORGiANs, see New Jerusalem Churches. Unitarians : — Bedford Chapel, Bloomsbury Street (Rev, Stop- ford Brooke) ; services at 11 and 7. — Little Portland Street Chapel (Rev. P. H. Wicksteed) ; Unity Church, Islington (Rev. I. W, Freckel- ton) , Rosslyn Hill Chapel, Hampstead (Rev. Brook Herford) ; Mall Chapel, Notting Hill ; Wandsworth Chapel. Wesletans, see Methodists. The services of the South Place Ethical Society are held at the South Place Institute at 11.15 a.m. — The lectures of the West London Ethical Society are given at Princes' Hall, Piccadilly, at 11.15; those of the London Ethical Society in Essex Hall, Essex Street, Strand, at 7.30 p.m. Foreign Churches : — Bavarian Chapel (Roman Catholic), 12 Warwick Street, Regent Street; services at 8, 9, 10, 11.15, 3.30, and 7. — Danish Church (Lutheran), King Street, Poplar-, service at 10.30a.m. — Dutch Church (Reformed Calvinist), 6 Austin Friars, near the Bank; service at 11 a.m. — French Protestant, Soho Square; services at 11 and 7. — French Protestant Evangelical Church, Monmouth Road, Westhourne Grove, Bayswater; services at 11 and 7. — French Anglican Church, 36 Blooms- bury Street, Oxford Street; services at 11 and 3.30. — French Roman Catholic Chapels, Little George Street, King Street, Portman Square, and at 5 Leicester Place, Leicester Square; various services. — German Lutheran Church Oately in the Savoy) , 46 Cleveland Street , Fitzroy Square ; ser- vices at 11 and 6.45. — German Lutheran Churches in Little Alie Street Whitechapel and at Dalston. — German Reformed Church, Goulston Road, Aldgate. — German Evangelical Churches, at Forest Hill, in Dacres Road Sydenham, in Windsor Road, Camberwell, and at Fowler Road, Isling- ton. — German Methodist Church (Bohlerkirche), Commercial Road; ser- vices at 11 and 6.30. — German Roman Catholic Chapel, 9 Union Street, Whitechapel; services at 9, 11, 3, and 7. — German Synagogue, see Jews, 17. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. 53 — Greek Chapel (Russian), 32 Welbeck Street, Cavendish Square; service at 11a.m. — Greek Church (St. Sophia), Moscow Road, Bayswater; service at 11.15a.m. — Italian Roman Catholic Church, Clerkenwell Road, E.G. — Spanish Roman Catholic Chapel, George Street, Manchester Square; nu- merous services. — Swedish Protestant Church, Prince's Square, St. George's Street, Shadwell; service at 11 a.m (p. ISO). — Swiss Protestant Church, 78 Endell Street, Long Acre; service at 11a.m. 17. Post and Telegraph Offices. Parcels Companies. Commissionnaires. Messengers. Lady Guides. Post Office. The General Post OmcE is in St. Martin's le Grand (p. 91). The Paste Bestante Office is on the S. (right) side of the portico (p. 91), and is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. There are also Poste Restante Offices at nine district offices. Letters to be called for, ^vhich should have the words 'Poste Restante' added to the address, are delivered to applicants on the production of their passports or other proof of identity, hut it is better to give cor- respondents a private address. Letters addressed to persons who have not been found are kept for a month , and then sent to the Dead Letter Office for return to the writer, or for destruction. Unprepaid letters are charged double postage, but may be refused by the addressee. The postage for the whole of Great Britain, Ireland, and the islands in the British seas, is Id. for letters not exceeding 1 oz. The fee for registration for a letter or other packet is 2d. ; special registered-letter envelopes are supplied at 2^4 -3d. each (according to size), to which the ordinary postage must be added. For letters to any other part of the world the uniform rate is now 2V2 d- for every 1/2 oz. Newspapers are transmitted to any part of Great Britain and the adjoining islands for ^/od. each. Newspapers for abroad (V2^- P^r 2 oz.) must be posted within eight days of publi- cation, otherwise book postage rates must be paid. For Book Packets 1/2^. per 2 oz. is charged for Great Britain and the countries of the postal union. No inland book packet may exceed 18 in. in length, 9 in, in width, and 6 in. in depth, or 5lbs. in weight. Patterns and Samples may be sent at the rate of id. per 4 oz. within the "United Kingdom. No such packet may weigh more than 8 oz. Postcards for use in the British Islands are issued at 51/2^. or Qd. per packet of ten (thin and thick) ; for countries included in the postal union and some others, at Id. each; reply postcards may be had at double these rates. Letter-Cards, the communication on which is concealed from view, are sold at 11/4^. each or eight for 9d. Envelopes of two sorts, with embossed 72^^- stamps, of three sorts, with embossed Id. stamps, and of two sorts, with embossed 2Y2<^- stamps, and newspaper wrappers with impressed ^/2d. or Id. stamps, are also sold by the post office. The number of daily deliveries of letters in London varies from six to twelve according to the distance from the head office at St. Martin's le Grand. On Sundays there is no delivery, but letters posted in the pillar 54 17. POST OFFICE. boxes within the town limits and in some of the nearer suburbs are col- lected in time for the general day mails and for the first London district delivery on the following day. Letters for the evening mails must be posted in the pillars before 5.30 p.m., in the central district before 6 p.m., or at the General Post Office, with an additional ^l2d. stamp, up to 7.45 p.m. Foreign letters may be posted at the General Post Office till 7 p.m. with an additional Irf. stamp; till 7.15 with 2d. extra; till 7.30 with 3d. extra; and at the termini for Continental trains till 8 p.m. with 4d. extra. The head district offices are open on Sunday for two hours. Comp. the Post Office Guide^ published quarterly (6c;.), or the Post Office Handbook (half-yearly; Id.). Express Letters. About I'O of the chief post-offices in London re- ceive letters and parcels to be delivered within the London postal area by special messenger at a charge of Bd. per mile or part of a mile. Parcels over ilh. in weight are charged an extra fee of i'^jid. for every additional lb. or part of a lb. Express letters handed in at other post-offices are forwarded in the ordinary course of post to the nearest Express Delivery Office, whence they are sent on by special messenger. No express service on Sunday. London is divided into eight Postal Districts, — the Eastern, Northern, North Western, Western, South Western, South Eastern, East Central , and West Central , — which are designated hy the capital letters E., N., N.W., and so on. Each has its district post- office, from which letters are distributed to the surrounding district. At these chief district offices letters may be posted about 1/2 hr. later than at the branches or pillars. The delivery of London letters is facilitated by the addition to the address of the initials of the postal district. The number of offices and pillars in London is up- wards of 2000 and the number of people employed by the post- office is about 11,000. Pakcel Post. The rate of postage for an inland parcel is 3d. for a weight not exceeding lib. ; each additional pound i'^j^d. The maximum length allowed for such a parcel is 3 ft. 6 in., and the length and girth combined must not exceed 6 ft. ; the maximum weight is lllbs. Insurance and compensation (up to lOi.) are allow- ed. Such parcels must be handed in. at a post-office, not posted in a letter-box. — A Parcel Post Service, at various rates, is also established between the United Kingdom and most foreign coun- tries (not including the United States) and British colonies. A 'Customs Declaration' and a 'Despatch Note' (forms to be obtained at a post-office") must be filled up for each foreign parcel. Post Office Money Orders are issued for sums not exceeding iOl. at the numerous Money Order Offices connected with the post-office, at least one of which is to be found in every post town in the United Kingdom. For sums under U. the charge for transmission is 2d.; over il. and under 2i., 8d.; over 2l. and under 4?., 4(f. ; over 4Z. and under 7^, 5d. ; over 7f. and not exceeding 10^., 6d. Foreign Money Orders., payable in the countries of the postal union, are issued at a charge of Gd. up to 21., is. up to 61., la. 6d. up to 7/., and 25. up to 10^. Postal Orders, of the value of is., is. 6d., 2*., 2s. 6d., 3«., 3s. 6c?., is., is.Qd., 5s., Is.Qd., iOs., iOs. Gd., 15«., and 205., are i,ssued at a small charge varying from i/z*^- to i^/-id., and pass from hand to hand like ordi- nary money. They are payable at any Money Order Office in the United Kingdom. If not presented for payment within three months from the last day of the month of issue, a fresh commission is charged equal to the original cost. Ky the use of not more than five id. stamps, affixed to the face of the order, any broken amount may be made up. 17. TELEGRAPHS. 55 Telegraph Monet Orders are issued for sums not exceeding 10^ by all post-ofHces transacting telegraph and money order business. A charge of not less than 9d. is made for the official telegram of advice, in addition ot which a commission of id. is charged for sums under 1^. ; over il. and under 2^, Gd ; over 21. and under 4^ , Sd. ; over il. and under 11., iOd. ; larger sums, is. Telegraph money orders cannot be sent abroad. Telegraphs. The whole telegraph system of Great Britain, with the sole exception of wires for the private use of the railway com- panies, belongs to Government (p. 91). The present tariff for inland telegrams is ^/^d. per word , with a minimum charge of Qd. ; the addresses are counted as part of the telegram. Replies up to 48 words may be prepaid. Telegrams are received at all railway-sta- tions and almost all post-offices throughout the country. London and its suburbs contain 300 telegraph offices, open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. The following nine are always open : Central Station, St. Martin's le Grand (corner of Newgate Street) ; London Bridge Station ; Liver- pool St. Station ; St. Pancras Station; Paddington Station; Victoria Station ; West Strand ; Willesden Junction Station ; Stratford Rail- way Station. The office at King's Cross Station is open always ex- cept 1.30 to 2.30 on Sun. and from 10 p.m. Sun. to 6 p.m. Mon. Foreign Telegrams. The tariff per word for telegrams to Belgium, Holland, France, or Germany is 2d. ; Italy or Switzerland M.; Norway 3'/2<?. Sweden or Spain id. ; Russia in- Europe b^j-id. ; Turkey G^J-id. ; Greece Id. Canada Is. -Is. 6d. ; United States Is. -Is. Sd. ; India is. ; Australia is. Id. 9s. 5d. : Cape Colony or JVatal 8s. lid. The minimum in any case is 10c?. Telephones. The telephonic communicatiin of London is mainly in the hands of the National Telephone Co.. the head office of which is in Oxford Court, Cannon Street, City. There are numerous call-rooms through- out London and district, open to the public at the rate of 3d. for each three minutes' conversation. — Telephonic communication with Paris was established in 1891. The public call-of.ices are at ihe General Post Office West (p. 91 : always open), West Strand Office (always open), and Thread- needle Street Post Ofi'ce (open on week-days from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.). Charge 8s. per three minutes. [Paris time is 10 min. in advance of Lon- don time, a fact to be taken into account in arranging for conversations with Paris correspondents.]. Parcels Companies. Parcels for London and the environs are trans- mitted by the London Parcels Delivery Company, which has 12(X) receiv- ing offices distributed throughout London, usually in shops indicated by notices. The head office is in Rolls Buildings, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street. Within a radius of 3 M. a parcel under 4lbs. is sent for 3d., under 14lbs., 6d., under 28lbs., Sd., and so on up to 1121bs. for Is. 2d.; beyond 3 M. the charges are from id. upwards. Parcels for all the chief towns of Eng- land are conveyed by Pickford & Co. (57 Gresham Street, E.G.) or Carter, Paterson, & Co.' (126 Goswell Road, E.G.), but the Post Office is the best carrier for packages not exceeding lllb.<!. in weight. Parcels for the Con- tinent are forwarded by the Continental Daily Parcels Express (53 Grace- church Street and 34 Regent Circus) and the Globe Parcels Express (20 St. Paul's Churchyard and 13 Woodstock Street, Oxford Street), which work in connection with the continental post-offices. Parcels for America are for- warded by St(tveley & Co.''s Ainerican European Express (H. Starr <fe Co.), 55 Barbican, E.G.; the American Express, 99 Cannon Street, E.G. ; the Ameri- can Agency, 10 Queen Street, Cheapside, and 23 Regent Street; and the American <lk European Express, 52 Lime Street, E.G., and 113a. Regent Street. Pitt dk Scott, 23 Cannon Street, City, and 25 Regent Street, are general shipping and parcel agents for all parts of the world. Commissionnaires. These are a corps of retired soldiers of good character, organised in 1859 by Captain Sir Edward Walter of the 'Times 56 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. newspaper, and form convenient and trustworthy messengers for the conveyance of letters or small parcels. Their head office is at Exchange Court", 419a Strand, but they are also to be found in most of the chief thoroughfares, where they may be recognised by their green uniform and metal badge. Their charges are 3d. per mile or Qd. per hour-, the rate is a little "higher if the parcel to be carried weighs more than 14lb8. The charge for a day is about 45. 6(i., and they may also be hired by special arrangement for a week or a longer period. — The Army and Navy Pen- sioners Emploi/meni Society, 20 Charing Cross, is a similar organisation. District Messenger Service Co. Messengers of this company charge 3d. per half-mile, 6d. per mile*, 8d. per hr., fares extra. Letters are posted or cabs called at 2d., or 4d. after lO p.m and on Sundays. Head-ofiice: 50 Lime Street, City; numerous branch-offices, open always. Boy Messengers and Electric Call Co. Central of lice, Star Yard, Carey Street-, numerous branch-offices. Blessengers 3d. per mile; 6d. per hr. ; 2s. 6d. and 3s. per day. Call-boxes supplied and maintained gratis. The Lady Guide Association, 352 Strand [Managing Directress, Miss Davis] , established in 1889, provides ladies qualified to act as guides to the sights of London, as interpreters, as travelling com- panions, as aids in shopping, etc. (not for gentlemen unaccom- panied by ladies). It also keeps a register of boarding and lodging houses, engages rooms at hotels, exchanges money, provides rail- way and other tickets, and generally undertakes to give all the in- formation and assistance required by a stranger in London. The charge for the guides, who are arranged in three classes and may be engaged by the hour, day, or month, varies from 4s. to 8s. Qd. per day. 18. Outline of English History. The visitor to the metropolis of Great Britain, whether from the western hemisphere, from the antipodes, or from the provinces of that country itself, will at almost every step meet with interesting historical associations; and it is to a great extent on his acquaintance with ihese that the enjoyment and instruction to be derived from his visit will d'^pend. We therefore give a brief table of the chief events in English history, which the tourist will often find convenient as an aid to his memory. In the following section will be found a sketch of the rise and progress of London itself. B.C. 55-445 A.D. B.C. 55-54. 43 A.D. 78-85. 412. 445. 445-1066. 445-585. Roman Period. Of Britain before its first invasion by Julius Caesar in B.C. 55 there is no authentic history. Caesar repeats his invasion in B.C. 5-4, but makes no permanent settlement. Emp. Claudius undertakes the subjugation of Britain. Britain, with part of Caledonia, is overrun by the Roman general Agricola, and reduced to the form of a province. Roman legions recalled from Britain by Honorius. The Britons, deprived of their Roman protectors, are unable to resist the attacks of the Picts, and summon the Saxons, under Hengist and Horsa, to their aid. Anglo-Saxon Period. The Saxons, re-inforced by the Angles, Jutes, and other Germanic tribes, gradually overcome Britain on their own ac- 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 57 count, until the wliole country, with, trifling exceptions, is divided into the seven kingdoms of the Saxon Heptarchy (585). To this period belong the semi-mythical exploits of King Arthur and his knights. Christianity re-introduced by St. Augustine (597). The Venerable Bede (d. 735). Caedmon (about 680). Contests with the Banes and Noi'mans , who repeatedly invade England. Alfred the Great defeats the Danes, and compels them to make peace. Creates navy, establishes militia, revises laws, reorganises institutions, founds university of Oxford, is a patron of learning, and himself an author. Ethelred the Unready draws down upon England the vengeance of the Danes by a massacre of those who had settled in England. The Danish king Sweyn conquers England. Canute the Great, the son of Sweyn, reigns over England. Harold Harefoot, illegitimate son of Canute , usurps the throne. Hardicanute, son of Canute. — The Saxon line is restored in the person of — Edward the Confessor, who makes London the capital of England, and builds Westminster Abbey (see p. 200). His brother-in-law and successor — Harold loses his kingdom and his life at the Battle of Hastings, where he opposed the invasion of the Normans, under William the Conqueror. Norman Dynasty. William the Conqueror, of Normandy, establishes him- self as King of the English. Introduction of Norman (French) language and customs. William II., surnamed Rufus , after a tyrannical reign, is accidentally shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell while out hunting. Henry I. , Beauclerc , defeats his elder brother Robert, Duke of Normandy, at the battle of Tenchebrai (1106), and adds Normandy to the possessions of the English crown. He leaves his kingdom to his daughter Matilda, who, however, is unable to wrest it from — Stephen, ofBlois, grandson of the Conqueror. David, King of Scotland , and uncle of Matilda, is defeated and taken prisoner at the Battle of the Standard. Stephen appoints as his successor Matilda's son, Henry of Anjou or Plantagenet (from the planta genista or broom, the badge of this family). House of Plantagenet. Henry 11. Strife with Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, over the respective spheres of the civil and 58 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. ecclesiastical powers. The ArchMshop excommunicates the King's followers, and is murdered by four knights at Can- terbury. Ireland is conquered by Strongbow and De Courcy. Robin Hood, the forest outlaw, flourishes. Bichard I., Coeur de Lion, takes a prominent part in the Third Crusade , but is captured on his way home, and im- prisoned in Germany for upwards of a year. He carries on war with Philip II. of France. John, surnamed Lackland, is defeated ^t Bouvines by Philip II. of France, and loses Normandy. Magna Charta, the groundwork of the English constitution, is extorted from him by his Barons (comp. pp. 193, 351). Henry III. , by his misrule , becomes involved in a war with his Barons, headed by Simon de Montfort, and is de- feated at Lewes. His son Edward gains the battle of Evesham, where De Montfort is slain. Hubert de Burgh de- feats the French at sea. Roger Bacon, the philosopher. Edward I., Longshanks, conquers the Welsh under Llewellyn, and annexes North "Wales. The heir apparent to the English throne thenceforward bears the title of Prince of Wales. Robert Bruce a.n&JohnBaUol struggle for the crown of Scotland. Edward espouses the cause of the latter (who swears fealty to England), and overruns Scotland. The Scots, led by Sir William Wallace, offer a determined resistance. Wallace executed at London. The Scots defeated at Falkirk 3ini Methuen, and the country subdued. Establish- ment of the English Parliament in its modern form. Edward II. is signally defeated at Bannockburn by the Scots under Robert Bruce the younger, and is forced to retire to England. The Queen and her paramour Mortimer join with the Barons in taking up arms against the King, who is deposed, and shortly afterwards murdered in prison. Edward III. defeats the Scots at Halidon Hill and Neville^s Cross. Lays claim to the throne of France, and invades that country , thus beginning the hundred years' war between France and England. Victories of SLuys [naval), Crecy (1346), and Poitiers (1356). John the Good of France, taken prisoner by the Black Prince, dies in captivity. After the death of the Black Prince, England loses all her French possessions, except Calais and Gascony. Order of the Garter founded. Movement against the preten- sions and corruption of the clergy, headed by the early reformer John Wycliffe. House of Commons holds its meet- ings apart from the House of Lords. Bichard II. Rebellion of Wat Tyler, occasioned by in- crease of taxation (see p. 97). Victory over the Scots at Otterburn or Chevy Chase. Henry of Bolingbroke, Duke of 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 59 Lancaster, leads an army against the King, takes Mm captive, and according to popular tradition, starves him to death in Pontefract Castle. Geoffrey Chaucer , the father of English poetry, flourishes. House of Lancaster. Henry IV. , Bolingbroke , now secures his election to the crown, in right of his descent from Henry III. Outbreak of the nobility, under the Earl of Northumberland and his son Henry (Percy Hotspur), is quelled by the victory of Shrews- bury, at which the latter is slain. Henry V. renews the claims of England to the French crown, wins the battle of Agincourt, and subdues the N. of France. Persecution of the Lollards, or followers of Wycliffe. Henry VI. is proclaimed King of France at Paris. The Maid of Orleans defeats the English and recovers French possessions. Outbreak of the civil contest called the ' Wars of the Roses', between the houses of Lancaster (red rosel and York (white rose). Henry becomes insane. Richard, Duke of York, grandson of Edward HI., lays claim to the throne, joins himself with Warwick, the 'King-Maker', and wins the battle of Northampton, but is defeated and slain at Wakefield. His son Edward, however, is appointed King. Rebellion of Jack Cade. House op York. Edward IV. wins the battles of Towton, Hedgley Moor, and Hexham. Warwick takes the part of Margaret of Anjou , wife of Henry VI. , and forces Edward to flee to Holland , whence , however , he soon returns and wins the victories of Barnet and Tewkesbury. Henry VI. dies sud- denly in the Tower. Edward's brother, the Duke of Clarence, is said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey. Edward V. , the youthful son of Edward IV. , is declared illegitimate, and murdered in the Tower, along with his brother (p. 125), by his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, who takes possession of the throne as — Richard III. , but is defeated and slain at Bosworth by Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond , a scion of the House of Lancaster. House of Tudob. Henry VII. marries Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and so puts an end to the Wars of the Roses. The pretenders Lambert Simnel and Perkin Warbeck. Henry VIII., married six times (to Catherine ofArragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine 60 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. Howard, and Catherine Parr'). Battles of the Spurs and Flodden. Separation of the Church of England from that of Rome. Dissolution of monasteries and persecution of the Papists. Cardinal Wolsey and Thomas Cromwell, all-powerful ministers. Whitehall and St. James's Palace huilt. Edward VI. encourages the Reformed faith. Mary I. causes Lady Jane Grey , whom Edward had ap- pointed his successor , to be executed, and imprisons her own sister Elizabeth (pp. 125, 188j. Maxries Philip of Spain, and restores Roman Catholicism. Persecution of the Proi testants. Calais taken by the French. Elizabeth. Protestantism re-established. Flourishing state of commerce. Mary, Queen of Scots, executed after a long confinement in England. Destruction of the Spanish 'Invincible Armada'. Sir Francis Drake, the celebrated circumnavigator. Foundation of the East India Company. Golden age of English literature : Shakspeare , Bacon, Spenser, Jonson, Beaumont, Fletcher, Marlowe, Drayton. House of Stuart. James I., King of Scots, and son of Mary Stuart, unites by his accession the two kingdoms of England and Scot- land. Persecution of the Puritans and Roman Catholics. In- fluence of Buckingham. Gunpowder Plot. Execution of Sir Walter Raleigh. Charles I. imitates his father in the arbitrary nature of his rule, quarrels with Parliament on questions of taxation, dissolves it repeatedly , and tyrannically attempts to arrest five leading members of the House of Commons {Hampden, Pym, etc.). Rise of the Couenaniers in Scotland. Long Par- liament. Outbreak of civil war between the King and his ad- herents (Cavaliers) on the one side, and the Parliament and its friends (Roundheads) on the other. The King defeated by Oliver Cromwell at Marston Moor and Naseby. He takes re- fuge in the Scottish camp, but is betrayed to the Parliamen- tary leaders, tried, and executed at Whitehall (p. ISiT). Commonwealth. The Scots rise in favour of Charles II., but are defeated at Dunbar and Worcester by Cromwell. Protectorate. Oliver Cromwell now becomes Lord Pro- tector of England, and by his vigorous and wise government makes England prosperous at home and respected abroad. John Milton, the poet, Thomas Hobbes, the philosopher, and George Fox, the founder of the Quakers, live at this period. On Cromwell's death , he is succeeded by his son Richard, who, however, soon resigns, whereupon Charles II. is re- stored by General Monk. C General amnesty proclaimed , a few of the 18. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. 61 regicides only being excepted. Arbitrary government. The Cabal, Wars with Holland. Persecution of the Papists after the pretended discovery of a Popish Plot. Passing of the Habeas Corpus Act. Wars with the Covenanters. Battle of Bothwell Bridge. Rye House Plot. Charles a pen- sioner of France. Names Whig and Tory come into use. Dryden and Butler., the poets ; Locke, the philosopher. James II. , a Roman Catholic , soon alienates the people by his love for that form of religion , is quite unable to resist the invasion of William of Orange , and escapes to France, where he spends his last years at St. Germain. William III. and Mary II. William of Orange , with his wife, the eldest daughter of James II., now ascends the throne. The Declaration of Rights. Bdittles oi Killiecrankie and The Boyne. Sir Isaac Newton. Anne, younger daughter of James II., completes the fusion of England and Scotland by the union of their parliaments. Marlborough's victories of Blenheim, Ramilies, Oudenarde, and Malplaquet, in the Spanish War of Succes- sion. Capture of Gibraltar. The poets Pope, Addison, Swift, Prior, and Allan Ramsay. Hanoverian Dynasty. George I. succeeds in right of his descent from James I. Rebellion in Scotland (in favour of the Pretender') quelled. Sir Robert Walpole, prime minister. Daniel Defoe. George II. Rebellion in favour of the Young Pretender, Charles Edward Stuart, crushed at Culloden. Canada taken from the French. William Pitt, Lord Chatham, prime minister; Richardson, Fielding, Smollett, Sterne, novelists; Thomson, Young, Gray, Collins, Gay, poets; Hogarth, painter. George III. American War of Independence. War with France. Victories of Nelson at Aboukir and Trafalgar, and of Wellington in Spain and at Waterloo. The younger Pitt, prime minister ; Shelley and Keats, poets. George IV. Roman Catholic Emancipation Bill. Daniel O'Connell. The English aid the Greeks in the War of In- dependence. Victory of Navarino. Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Wordsworth, Coleridge, Southey. William IV. Abolition of slavery. Reform Bill. The present sovereign of Great Britain is — Victoria, born 24th May, 1819 ; ascended the throne in 1837 ; married, on 10th Feb., 1840, her cousin. Prince Albert of Saxe- Coburg-Gotha (d. 14th Dec, 1861). 62 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. The children of this marriage are: — (1) Victoria, born 21st Nov., 1840; married to the Crown Prince of Germany, 25th Jan., 1858. (2) Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, Heir Apparent to the throne, born 9th Nov., 1841; married Alexandra, Princess of Denmark, 10th Mar., 1863. (3) Alice, born 25th April, 1843; married to the Grand-Duke of Hessen- Darmstadt, 1st July, 1862; died 14th Dec, 1878, (4) Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, born 6th Aug., 1844; married the Grand Duchess Marie of Russia, 23rd Jan., 1874. (5) Helena, born 2oth May, 1846; married to Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg, 5th July, 1866. (6) Louise, born 18th March, 1848; married to the Marquis of Lome, eldest son of the Duke of Argyll, 21st March, 1871. (7) Arthur, Duke of Connaught, born 1st May, 1850; married Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia, daughter of Prince Frederick Charles, 13th March, 1879. (8) Leopold, Duke of Albany, born 7th April, 1853 ; married Princess Helen of Waldeck-Pyrmont, 27th April, 1882; died 28th March, 1884. (9) Beatrice, born 14th April, 1857; married Prince Henry of Batten- berg, 23rd July, 1885. 19. Historical Sketch of London. The most populous city in the world (which London un- questionably is) cannot fail to have had an eventful history, in all that concerns race, creed, institutions, culture, and general progress. At what period the Britons, one hranch of the Celtic race, settled on this spot, there is no authentic evidence to shew. The many forms which the name assumes in early records have led to much controversy ; but it is clear that 'London' is derived from the Latin Londinium, the name given it in Tacitus, and that this is only an adaptation by the Romans of the ancient British name Llyn^ or Lin, a pool, and din or dun, a high place of strength, a hill fort, or city. The 'pool' was a widening of the river at this part, where it makes a bend, and offered a convenient place for shipping. Whether the 'dun' or hill was the high ground reached by Ludgate Hill, and on which St. Paul's now stands, or Cornhill, near the site of the Man- sion House, it is difficult to decide*. Probably both these eleva- tions were on the 'pool'. The etymology of the first syllable of Lon- don is the same as that of 'Lin' in Lincoln, which was called by Ptolemy Lindon (AtvSov), and by the Romans Lindum, the second syllable of the modern form of the name representing the word 'Colonia'. The present British or Welsh name of London is Llun- dain; but it was formerly also known to the Welsh as Caer-ludd, the City of Lud , a British king said to have ruled here just before the Roman period, and popularly supposed to be commemorated in Lud- gate t, one of the gates of the old walled city, near the junction of Ludgate Hill and Farringdon Street. • The latter alternative is that of the Rev. W. J. Loftie, London's latest and probably best historian (see p. 801. t Tn reality from the Anglo-Saxon Lydgeaat, a postern (Lol'tieJ. 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. 63 London, in the days of the Britons, was probably little more than a collection of huts, on a dry spot in the midst of a marsh, or in a cleared space in the midst of a wood, and encompassed by an artificial earthwork and ditch. That there was much marsh and forest in the immediate vicinity is proved by the character of the deep soil when turned up in digging foundations, and by the small subterranean streams which still run into the Thames, as at Dowgate, formerly Dowr^afe ['water gate', from Celtic dwr^ water), at the Fleet Ditch, at Blackfriars Bridge, etc. Such names as Fen- church Street (see p. 109} are reminiscent of the former character of the neighbourhood. After the settlement of the Romans in Britain, quite early in the Christian era, London rapidly grew in importance. In the time of the Emperor Nero (62 A.D.), the city had become a resort of merchants from various countries and the centre of a considerable maritime commerce, the river Thames affording ready access for shipping. It suffered terribly during the sanguinary struggle between the Romans and the British queen Boadicea, and was in later cen- turies frequently attacked and plundered by piratical bands of Franks, Norsemen, Picts, Scots, Danes, and Saxons, who crossed the seas to reap a ruthless harvest from a city which doubtless possessed much commercial wealth ; but it speedily recovered from the effects of these visitations. As a Roman settlement London was frequently named Augusta, but it was never raised to the dignity of being a municipium like Verulamium (p. 346) or Eboracum (York) and was not regarded as the capital of Roman Britain. It extended from the site of the present Tower of London on the E. to Ludgate on the W., and inland from the Thames as far as the marshy ground known in later times as Moorfields and Finsbury or Fensbury. Wat- ling Street perpetuates the name of one among many roads made through London by the Romans. Relics are still found almost annu- ally of the foundations of Roman buildings of a substantial and elegant character. Fragments of the Roman wall are also discernible. This wall was maintained in parts until modern times, but lias almost entirely disappeared before tbe alterations and improvements which taste and the necessities of trade have intri duced. The most prominent remain- ing piece of the Roman walls is in London Wall, between Wood Street and Aldermanbury, where an inscribed tablet calls attention to it. An- other fragment may be seen in the adjacent churchyard of St. Giles, Crip- plegate (see p. 97); while a third, 8 ft. thick, forms the north boundary of the New Post Office buildings (p. 92) from Aldersgate Street to King Edward Street. The gates of Roman London, whose walls are believed to have been first built on such an extended scale as to include the above- mentioned limits by the Emperor Constantine in the fourth cen- tury, were in after times called Lud-gate, Dour-gate, Belius-gate, Postern-gate, Aid-gate, Bishops-gate, Moor-gate, Cripple-gate, Alders-gate and New-gate, all of which are still commemorated in names of streets, etc., marking the localities. Roman London from 64 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. the Tower to Ludgate was about a mile in length, and from the Thames to 'London Wall' about half a mile in breadth. Its remains at Cheapside and the Mansion House are found at about 18 feet below the present surface. The Roman city as at first enclosed must, however, have been smaller, as Roman sepulchres have been found in Moorgate Street, Bishopsgate, and Smithfield, which must then have lain beyond the walled city. The Saxons , who seldom distinguished themselves as builders , contributed nothing to the fortification of London ; but the Normans did much, beginning with the erection of the Tower. During the earlier ages of Saxon rule, the great works left here by the Romans — villas, baths, bridges, roads, temples, statuary, — were either destroyed or allowed to fall into decay, as was the case, indeed, all over Britain. London became the capital of one of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, and continued to increase in size and importance. The sites of two of modern London's most prominent buildings — Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral — were occupied as early as the beginning of the 7th cent, by the modest originals of these two stately churches. Bede, at the beginning of the 8th cent., speaks of London as a great market frequented by foreign traders, and we find it paying one-fifth of a contribution exacted by Canute from the entire kingdom. From William the Conqueror London receiv- ed a charter t in which he engaged to maintain the rights of the city, but the same monarch erected the White Tower to over- awe the citizens in the event of disaffection. At this time the city probably contained 30-40,000 inhabitants. A special promise is made in Magna Charta, extorted from King John, to observe all the ancient privileges of London ; and we may date the present form of its Corporation, consisting of Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Coun- cilmen, from a somewhat earlier period it. The 13th and 14th centu- ries are marked in the annals of London by several lamentable fires, famines, and pestilences, in which many thousands of its inhabitants perished. The year 1381 witnessed the rebellion of Wat Tyler, who was slain by Lord Mayor Walworth at Smithfield. In this outbreak, and still more in that of Jack Cade (1450), London suffered severely, through the burning and pillaging of its houses. During the reigns of Henry VIII. (1509-1547) and his daughter Mary (1552-1 558), London acquired a terrible familiarity with the fires lighted to consume un- fortunate 'heretics' at the stake, while under the more beneficent t The following is the text of this charter as translated by Bishop Stnhbs: — 'William king greets William bishop and Gosfrith portreeve, and all the burghers wilhin London, French and English, friendly; and 1 do you fo wit that I will that ye be all lawworthy that were in King Edward's day. And I will that every child be his father's heir after his father's day; and I will not endure that any man oiler any wrong to you. God keep you'. ft A deed among the archives of St. Paul's mentions a 'Mayor of the City of London' in 1193. 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. 65 reign of Elizabeth (1558-1603), the capital showed its patriotic zeal by its liberal contributions of men, money, and ships, for the purpose of resisting the threatened attack of the Armada. A map of London at this time would show the Tower standing on the verge of the City on the E., while on the W., the much smaller city of Westminster would still be a considerable distance from London. The Strand, or river-side road connecting the two cities, would appear bordered by numerous aristocratic mansions, with gardens extending into the fields or down to the river. Throughout the Norman period, and down to the times of the Plantagenets and the Wars of the Roses, the commonalty lived in poor and mean wooden dwellings; but there were many good houses for the merchants and manufacturers, and many im- portant religious houses and hospitals, while the Thames was provided with numerous convenient quays and landing-stages. The streets, even as lately as the 17th cent., were narrow, dirty, full of ruts and holes, and ill-adapted for traffic. Many improvenients , however, were made at the period we have now reached (the end of the 16th cent.), though these still left London very different from what we now see it. In the Civil Wars, London, which had been most exposed to the exactions of the Star Chamber, naturally sided with the Round- heads. It witnessed Charles I. beheaded at the Palace of Whitehall in 1649, and Oliver Cromwell proclaimed Lord Protector of England in 1653 ; and in 1660 it saw Charles II. placed on the throne by the 'Restoration'. This was a period when England, and London espe- cially, underwent dire suffering in working out the problem of civil and religious liberty, the successful solution of which laid the basis of the empire's greatness. In 1664-1666 London was turned into a city of mourning and lamentation by the ravages of the Great Plague, by which, it is calculated , it lost the enormous number of 100,000 citizens. Closely treading on the heels of one calamity came another — the Great Fire — which, in September, 1666, destroyed 13,000 houses, converting a great part of the eastern half of the city into a scene of desolation. This disaster, however, ulti- mately proved very beneficial to the city, for London was rebuilt in a much improved form, though not so advantageously as it would have been if Sir Christopher Wren's plans had been fully realised. Among the new edifices, the erection of which was necessitated by the fire, was the present St. Paul's Cathedral. Of important build- ings existing before the fire, Westminster Abbey and Hall, the Temple Church, and the Tower are now almost the only examples. Wren fortunately had his own way in building the fifty odd City churches, and the visitor to London should not fail to notice their great variety and the skill with which they are grouped with St. Paul's. A good panorama of the entire group is obtained from the tower of St. Saviour's, Southwark : the general effect is also visible from Blackfriars Bridge (p. 117). It was not, however, till the reign of Queen Anne (1702-1714), that London began to put on anything like its present appearance. In 1703 it was' visitect by a fearful storm, by which houses were overthrown, the ships in the river driven on shore, churches un- roofed, property to the value of at least 2,000,000i. destroyed, and the lives of several hundreds of persons sacrificed. The winter of 1739-1740 is memorable for the Great Frost, lasting from Christ- Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 5 66 19. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LONDON. mas to St. Valentine's Day, during which a fair was held on the frozen bosom of the Thames. Great injuries were inflicted on the city hy the Gordon No-Popery Riots of 1780. The prisons were destroyed , the prisoners released , and mansions were hurned or pillaged, thirty-six conflagrations having heen counted at one time in different quarters ; and the rioters were not subdued till hundreds of them had paid the penalty of their misdeeds with their lives. Many of the handsomest streets and finest buildings in London date from the latter half of last century. To this period belong the Mansion House, the Horse Guards, Somerset House, and the Bank. During the 19th cent, the march of improvement has been so rapid as to defy description. The Mint, the Custom House, Waterloo Bridge, London Bridge , Buckingham Palace , the Post Office , the British Museum , the Athenaeum Club , the York Column , the National Gallery, the Houses of Parliament, the new Law Courts, and the whole of Belgravia and the West End beyond, have all arisen during the last 80 years. An important event in the domestic history of the city was the commencement of gas-lighting in 1807. (Before 1716 the provisions for street-lighting were very imper- fect, but in that year an act was passed ordering every householder to hang out a light before his door from six in the evening till eleven.) From that time to the present London has been ac- tively engaged, by the laying out of spacious thoroughfares and the construction of handsome edifices, in making good its claim to be not only the largest, but also one of the finest cities in the world. The electric light has hitherto been used comparatively little in the London streets, though the Thames Embankment and a few other thoroughfares are now lighted by electricity. No authentic estimate of the population of London can be traced farther back than two centuries. Nor is it easy to determine the area covered by buildings at diflcrent periods. At one time the 'City within the Walls' comprised all ; afterwards was added the 'City without the Walls'; then the city and liberties of Westminster; then the borough of Southwark, S. of the river; then numerous parishes between the two cities; and lastly other parishes forming an encircling belt around the whole. All these component elements at length came to be embraced under the name of 'London'. The population was about 700,000 in the year 1700, about 900,000 in 1800, and 1,300,000 in 1821. Each subsequent decennial census included a larger area than the one that preceded it. The original -City' of London, covering little more than 1 square mile, has in this way expanded to a great metropolis of fully 120 square miles, contain- ing, in 1^;9I, a population of 4,211,0.06 [lersons "(see p. 69). Extension of commerce has accompanied the growth of population. Statistics of trade in past centuries are wanting; but at the present time London supplies half the total customs-revenue of the kingdom. One-fourth of the whole ship tonnage of England, and one-fourth of the entire exports, are centred in the port of London. (For fuller statistical information, see below, Section 20.) 67 20. Topography and Statistics. Topography. The city of London is built upon a tract of un- dulating clay soil, whicli extends irregularly along the valley of the Thames from a point near Reading to Harwich and Heme Bay at the mouth of the river, a distance of ahout 120 miles. It is divided into two portions by the river Thames, which, rising in the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestersliire, is from its source down to its mouth in the German Ocean at Sheerness 230 M. in length, and is navigable for a distance of 50 M. — The southern and less Important part of London (Southwark and Lambeth) lies in the counties of Surrey and Kent ; the northern and principal portion in Middlesex and Essex. The latter part of the immense city may be divided, in accordance with its general characteristics, into two great halves (not taking into account the extensive outlying districts on the N. and the N.E., which are comparatively uninteresting to strangers) : — I. The City and the East End, consisting of that part of London which lies to the E. of the Temple, form the commercial and money-making quarter of the metropolis. It embraces the Port, the Docks, the Custom House, the Bank, the Exchange, the in- numerable counting-houses of merchants, money-changers, brokers, and underwriters, the General Post Office, the printing and publish- ing offices of the Times, the legal corporations of the Inns of Court, and the Cathedral of St. Paul's, towering above them all. II. The West End, or that part of the town to the W. of the Temple, is the quarter of London which spends money, makes laws, and regulates the fashions. It contains the Palace of the Queen, the Mansions of the aristocracy, the Clubs, Museums, Picture Galleries, Theatres, Barracks, Government Offices, Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey ; and it is the special locality for parks, squares, and gardens, for gorgeous equipages and powdered lackeys. Besides these great divisions, the following districts are distin- guished by their population and leading occupations : — I. On the Lbft Bank of the Thames: — (a) To the E. of the City is the so-called Long Shore, which extends along the bank of the Thames, and is chiefly composed of quays, wharves, store-houses, and engine-factories , and inhabited by shipwrights, lightermen, sailors, and marine store dealers. (b) Whitechapel, with sugar-bakeries and their German workmen. (c) Houndsditch and the Minories, the quarters of the Jews. (d) Bethnal Green and Spitalfields to the N., and part of Shore- ditch , form a manufacturing district , occupied to a large extent by silk-weavers, partly descended from the French Protestants (Hu- guenots) who took refuge in England after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. (e) Clerkenwell, between Islington and Hatton Garden, the district of watch-makers and metal-workers. 5» 68 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. (f) Paternoster Roio, near St. Paul's Cathedral, the focus of the book-trade. (g) Chancery Lane and the Inns of Court, the headquarters of barristers, solicitors, and law-stationers. II. In Surrey, on the Right Bank of the Thames : — (a) Southwark and Lambeth, containing numerous potteries, glass-works, machine-factories, breweries, and hop-warehouses. (b) Bermondsey, famous for its tanneries, glue-factories, and wool- warehouses. (c) Rotherhithe, farther to the E., chiefly inhabited by sailors, ship-carpenters, coalheavers, and bargemen. By the Redistribution Bill of 1885 London is divided for parliamentary purposes into the City Proper, returning two members of parliament , and 27 metropolitan boroughs comprising 57 single member districts. London University also returns one member. The City Proper, which strictly speaking forms a county of itself and is neither in Middlesex nor Essex, is bounded on the W. by the site of Temple Bar and Southampton Buildings ; on the N. by Holborn, Smithfleld, Barbican, and Finsbury Circus ; on the E. by Bishopsgate Without, Petticoat Lane, Aldgate, and the Minories ; and on the S. by the Thames. The City is divided into 26 Wards and 108 parishes, has a separate administration and jurisdiction of its own, and is presided over by the Lord Mayor. At the census of 1891 it consisted of 5750 inhabited houses with 37,504 inhabitants (37,268 less than in 1871). The resident population is steadily decreasing on account of the constant emigration to the West End and suburbs, the ground and buildings being so valuable for com- mercial purposes as to preclude their use merely as dwellings. More than 4000 houses are left empty every night under the guardianship of the 800 members of the City police force (p. 69). The datj population of the City in 1891 was 301,381, and the number of houses or separate tene- ments in which persons were actively employed during the day was 25,143. The rateable value of property in 1892 was 4,094,635?. or about 300,000i. more than that of Liverpool. Sites for building in the City sometimes realise no less than 20-70L per square foot. The annual revenue of the City of London is upwards of 500,OOOL In 1891 an attempt was made to esti- mate the number of persons and vehicles entering the City precincts within 24 hours. Enumerators were stationed at 80 different inlets, and their returns showed the enormous totals of 1,121,708 persons and 92,488 vehicles. Westminster, to the W. of the City, bounded on the N. by Bayswater Road and Oxford Street, on the W. by Chelsea, Kensing- ton, and Brompton, and on the S. by the Thames, comprises three of the parliamentary boroughs (Westminster Proper or the Abbey Dis- trict, the Strand District, and the District of St. George's, Hanover Square), each returning one member to the House of Commons. It contains 23,258 houses and 198,796 inhabitants. The remaining parliamentary boroughs are Battersea (including Clapham'), Bethnal Oreen, Camberwell, Chelsea, Deptford, Fins- bury, Fulham, Qreenwich, Hackney, Hammersmith, Hampstead, Islington, Kensington, Lambeth, Lewisham, Marylebone, Newington, Paddinyton , St. Pancras, Shoreditch , Southwark (including Ber- 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. 69 raondsey and RotherMtlie), Tower Hamlets, Wandsxoorth, and Wool- xvich. The population, area, and boundaries of these new boroughs are given in a map published by Philip, 32 Fleet Street (6d.) Statistics. The City, the West End, and the Borough, together with the suburban villages which have been gradually absorbed, form the great and constantly extending metropolis of London — a city which, in the words of Tacitus (Ann. 14, 33), was and still is 'copia negotiatorum et commeatuum maxime celebre'. It has doubled in size within tbe last half-century, being now, from Strat- ford and Blackwall on the E. to Kew Bridge and Acton on the W., 14 M. in length, and from Clapham and Heme Hill on the S. to Hornsey and Highgate on theN., 8M. in breadth, while it covers an area of 122 square miles. This area is, at a rough estimate, occupied by 7800 streets, which if laid end to end would form a line 3000 M. long, lighted by a million gas-lamps consuming daily 28,000,000 cubic feet of gas. The 554,000 buildings of tMs gigantic city in- clude 1400 churches of various denominations, 7500 public houses, 1700 coffee-houses, and 500 hotels and inns. The Metropolitan and City Police District, which extends 12-15 M. in every direction from Charing Cross, embraces an area of 690 sq. M., with 7000 M. ot streets and roads and 800,000 inhabited houses. The annual rate- able value of house property was estimated in 1890 at 39 millions sterling. According to the census of 1891, the population of London consisted of 4,211,036 souls (or within the bounds of the Metropoli- tan Police District 5,633,332), showing an increase of 866,671 over that of 1881. The annual increase is about 70,000. Among these there are about 3000 master-tailors , 2800 bakers, 2400 butchers (besides many thousands of men and women in their employ), and 300,000 domestic servants. The number of paupers was 106,670. The population of London has been almost doubled within the last forty years (pop. in 1851, 2,362,230), and within the same period about 2000 M. of new streets have been constructed. There are in London more Scotsmen than in Aberdeen, more Irish than in Dub- lin, more Jews than in Palestine, and more Roman Catholics than in Rome. The number of Americans resident in London has been estimated by a competent authority at 15,000, while perhaps 100,000 pass through it annually. In Paris the Americans number about 8000. Between 1856 and 1889 the important Metropolitan Impeove- MBNTS, undertaken for the facilitation of traffic and for the sanitary benefit of the population, were superintended by the Metropolitan Board of Works. This body, however, ceased to exist on March 3ist, 1889, and all its powers and duties were transferred to the London County Council, a body called into existence by an Act of Parliament passed in 1888. Various new powers were also con- ferred on the Council. The new ^Administrative County of Londor' Includes the City of London and parts of the counties of Middle- sex, Essex, Surrey, and Kent. Its electoral divisions coincide 70 20. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. witli the parliamentary boroughs mentioned at p. 68, two Council- lors being elected by the borough franchise for each division. With the 19 Aldermen appointed by the Council itself, the total number of members is thus 137. Though the Metropolitan Board of Works never exactly met the idea of a popular elective body and though it had practically lost the public confidence before its extinction, it is yet impossible to deny that it ac- complished many public works of great magnificence and utility, though at enormous expense. The most important work of the Board was the new system of Interceptive Main Drainage^ begun in 1850 under the superintend- ence of Sir Joseph Bazalt;ette , and carried out at a cost of 6,500. OOOf. The system consists of large sewers or tunnels, constructed nearly parallel with the Thames, as far as Barking Creek, 14 M. below London, on the left bank of the river, and to Crossness on the right, where the drainage is made to flow into the Thames at high water with the view of its being carried out to sea by the ebb-tide. The sewage (200 million gallons daily) is subjected to an elaborate process of deodorisation and precipitation before its discharge into the river, while 20,0( tons of sludge are weekly carried out to sea by the CounciFs sludge-boats, greatly to the advantage of the purity of the Thames, though it can hardly be asserted that the drainage problem has been finally solved. It is worthy of remark that this pollution of the most important river in Britain is at present made legal by an exceptional clause in the liiver Pollution Prevention Act. The main sewers, of which there are three on the N. side of the Thames, independent of each other and at different levels, consist of tunnels lined with brick, lift, wide and 10ft. high. Their aggregate length amounts to 85 M. — The Thames Embankment^ described at p. 115, is another and scarcely less important undertaking of the Board of Works. — All the Bridges over the Thames on which toll was levied were made free by the Board at a cost of IV2 million sterting and a free ferry has been established at Woolwich. — The formation of new Streets and the acquisition and opening of Parks and other Ope7i Spaces have also engaged the attention of the Board and its successor. There are now 3000 acres of open spaces in London (in addition to the royal parks), 1500 acres of which were acquired under the County Council. The London Fire Brigade^ a well-equipped force of 825 men, is under the control of the County Council. It is maintained at an annual cost of upwards of 130,000^. Comp. p. 308. The elementary education (free since 1891) of London is at- tended to by the London School Board, consisting of 55 members, elected by the City and the ten other districts into which London is divided for the educational franchise. In the City the electors are the voters for Common Councilmen, in the other divisions the rate-payers. The annual income of the Board, exclusive of loans, is about 2,000,000^ The 440 schools provided by the board accommo- date nearly 433,000 children, out of a total of 700,000 upon the roll of efficient schools. The office of the board is on the Victoria Embankment, near the Temple Station (see p. 116). 21. General Hints. Some of the following remarks may be deemed superfluous by many readers of this Handbook ; but a few observations on English or London peculiarities may not be unacceptable to the American, the English-speaking foreigner, or the provincial visitor. In England, Sunday, as is well known, is observed as a day of rest 21. GENERAL HINTS. 71 and of public worship. Shops, places of amusement, galleries, and the City restaurants are closed the whole day, while other restaurants are open from 1 to 3, and from 6 to 11 p.m. only. Many places of husineas are closed from 1, 2, or 3 p.m. on Saturday till Monday morning. Among these are all the banks and insurance offices and practically all the Avhole- sale warehouses. Like '■s'il vous plaW in Paris, '// yon please' or ^please'' is generally used in ordering refreshments at a cafe or restaurant, or in making any request. The English forms of politeness are, however, by no means so minute or ceremtmious as the French. For example, the hat is raised to ladies only, and is worn in all public places, such as shop.s, cafes, music halls, and museums. The fashionable hour for paying visits in London is between 4 and 6 p.m. The proper mode of delivering a letter of introduction is in per- son, along Avith the bearer's visiting-card und address; but when this is rendered inconvenient by the greatness of distance ur other cause, the letter may be sent by post, accompanied by a polite explanation. The usual dinner hour of the upper classes varies from 6 to 8 or even 9 p.m. It is considered permissible for guests invited to a dinner-party to arrive a few minutes late. A common form of invitation is 'eight, for half-past eight', in which case the guest should arrive not later than the latter hour. Gentlemen remain at table, over their wine, for a short time after the ladies have left. Foreigners may often obtain, through their ambassadors, permission to visit private collections which are not open to the ordinary English tourist. We need hardly caution new-comers against the artiiices of pick- pockets and the wiles of impostors, two fraternities which are very nu- merous in Loudon. It is even prudent to avoid speaking to strangers in the street. All information desired by the traveller may be obtained from one of the policemen, of whom about 15,500 (500 mounted) perambulat.> the streets of the metropolis. If a policeman is not readily found, appli- cation may be made to a postal letter carrier, to a commissi onnaire, or at a neighbouring shop. A considerable degree of caution and presence of mind is often requisite in crossing a crowded thoroughfare, and in entering or alighting from a train or omnibus. The 'rule of the road' for foot-passengers in busy streets is to keep to the right. Poor neigh- bourhoods should be avoided after nightfall. Strangers are also warned against Mock Auctions, a specious trap for the unwary, and indeed should neither buy nor sell at any auction in London without the aid of an ex- perienced friend or a trustworthy broker. Addresses of all kinds may be found in Kelly's Post Office Directory, a thick volume of 3000 pages, or in Morris's Director}/, a less extensive work, one or other of which maybe seen at all the hotels and cafes and at most of the principal shops. The addresses of residents at the West End and other suburbs may also be obtained from Boyle's Court Guide, Webster s Royal Red Book, the Royal Blue Book, or Kelhj s Suburban Di- rectory, and those of city men and firms in Colling i-idge's C,(y Directory. A useful adjunct to most houses in the central parts of London is a Cab 'Whistle, one blast upon which summons a four-wheeler, two a hansom. Among the characteristic sights of London is the Lord Mayor's Show (9th Nov.), or the procession in which — maintaining an ancient and picturesque, though useless custom — the newly-elected Lord Mayor moves, amid great pomp and ceremony, through the streets from the City to the new Courts of Justice, in order to take the oath of office. It is followed by the great dinner in the Guildhall (p. 101). 22. Guilds, Charities, Societies, Clubs. Gruilds. Tlie City Companies or Guilds of Loudon were once upwards of one hundred in number, about eighty of winch still exist , though few exercise their ancient privileges. About forty 72 02. GUILDS, CHARITIES. of them possess lialls in wliich they transact ^business and hold festivities; the others meet either in rooms lent to them at Guild- hall, or at the offices of the respective clerks. All the companies except five are called Livery Companies, and the members are en- titled, on ceremonial occasions, to v?ear the liveries (gowns, furs, etc.) of their respective guilds. Many of the companies possess vast estates and revenues, while others possess neither halls nor almshouses, neither estates nor revenues, — nothing but ancient charters to which they reverentially cling. Some of the guildhouses are among the most interesting buildings in London, and are no- ticed tliTOUghout the Handbook. The Twelve Great Companies, wealthier and more influential than the rest, are the Mercers, Grocers, Drapers, Fishmongers. Goldsmiths, Skinners, Merchant Taylors, Haberdashers, Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and Cloth- workers. Some of the companies represent trades now quite ex- tinct, and by their unfamiliar names strikingly illustrate the fact how completely they have outlived their original purpose. Such are the Bowyers, Broderers, Girdlers, Homers, Loriners (saddler's ironmongers). Patten Makers, and Scriveners. Charities. The charities of London are on a scale commensurate with the vastness of tlie city, being no fewer than 2000 in number. They comprise hospitals, dispensaries, asylums ; bible, tract, mis- sionary, and district visiting societies; provident homes, orphanages, etc. A tolerably complete catalogue will be found in Fry's Guide to the London Charities (Is. Gc/.), Howe's Classified Directory of Metro- politan Charities (Is.'), or Low's Handbook to the Charities of London (Is.). The total voluntary subscriptions, donations , and bequests to these charities amount to about 5,000,000i. annually, or more tlian 1^. for each man, woman, and child in tlie capital. The institu- tion of 'Hospital Sunday', on which collections are made in all the churches for the hospitals , produces a yearly revenue of about 40,000i. Non-churchgoers have a similar opportunity afforded them on 'Hospital Saturday', when about 750 ladies station themselves at street- corners to receive contributions; this produces about 7000Z., while collections made at the same time in workshops add 13,000L or more. The following is a brief list of tlie chief general hospitals, besides which there are numerous special hospitals for cancer, small- pox, fever, consumption, eye and ear diseases, and so forth. Charing Cross, Agar Street, Strand. — French Hospital, 172 Shaftesliury Avenue. — German, Dalston Lane, Dalston. — Great Northern., Caledoniau Road.— Guy^s, St. Thomas Street, Southwark. — Italian^ Queen Square. — King's College, Carey Street, Strand. — Xo?jdo», Whitechapel Road. — London Homeopathic, Great Ormond Street. — Metropolitan., Kingsland Road, E. — Middlesex, Mortimer Street, Berners Street. — North- West London, Kentisb Town Road. — University College, or North London., Gower Street. — Royal Free, Gray'a Inn Road. — St. Bartholowtw's, Smithfield. — *S'<. George's., Hyde Park Corner. — St. Mary's, Cambridge Place, Paddington. — St. Thomas's, Albert Embankment. — Temper a7ice ., Hampslead Road. — West London, Hammersmith Road. — Westminster, Broad Siinctuary. The following are Hospitals for Ladiks, in which patients are receiv- 22. SOCIETIES. 73 ed for a moderate charge: — EstahUshment for Gentlewomen^ 90 Harley Street (U.-ll. 5s. Qd. per week) ; New Hospital for Women, 14i Euston Ruad, with lady-doctors^ Chelsea Hospital for Women, Fulham Road. Societies. The societies for the encouragement of industry, art, and science in London are extremely numerous, and many of them possess most ample endowments. The names of a few of the most important may be given here , some of them being described at length in other parts of the Handbook: — Royal Society, Royal Academy, Society of Antiquaries, Geolo- gical Society, Royal Astronomical Society, Linnaean Society, Chem- ical Society, all in Burlington House, Piccadilly. — Royal Archaeo- logical Institute, 17 Oxford Mansions, Oxford Street. — Royal Aca- demy of Music, 4 Tenterden Street, Hanover Square. — Royal Col- lege of Music, near the Albert Hall. — • Royal College of Physicians, Pall Mall East. — Royal College of Surgeons, 40 Lincoln's Inn Fields, — Royal Geographical Society, 1 Savile Row, Burlington Gardens. — Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. — Royal Society of Literature , 20 Hanover Square, W. — Royal College of Science, 282 Exhibition Road, South Keusingston. — Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, generally known as the Society of Arts, John Street, Adelphi, Strand. — Trinity College (music and arts), 13 Mandeville Place, Manchester Square. — Heralds' College, Queen Victoria Street. — Institution of Civil Engineers, 25 Great George Street, Westminster. — Royal Institute of British Architects, 9 Conduit Street, AV, — Sanitary Institute of Great Britain (Museum of Hygiene), 74a Mar- garet Street, Cavendish Square. — School of Electrical Engineer- ing and Submarine Telegraphy, 12 Prince's Street, Hanover Square. — Royal Institution, 21 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. Popular lectures on science, art, and literature are delivered here on Friday evenings during the Season (adm. by a members order). Six lec- tures for children, illustrated by experiments, are given after Christ- mas, — Guilds Central Technical College, Exhibition Road, South Kensington, for the advancement of technical education. The Clubs are chiefly devoted to social purposes. Most of the club-houses at the West End, particularly those in or near Pall Mall, are very handsome, and admirably fitted up, affording every possible comfort. To a bachelor in particular his 'club'is a most serviceable in- stitution. Members are admitted by ballot, but candidates are reject- ed by a certain small proportion of 'black balls' or dissentient votes. The entrance fee varies from 5^. 5s. to AOl., and the annual subscrip- tion is from 3l. Ss. to ibl. 15s. The introduction of guests by a mem- ber is allowed in some, but not in all of the clubs. The cuisine is usu- ally admirable. The wine and viands, which are sold at little more than cost price, often attain a pitch of excellence unequalled by the most elaborate and expensive restaurants. We append a roughl y classified list of the most important clubs : — Political. — CoKSEKVATivE : Brooks''^, 60 St. James's Street; Carlton, d^ 74 22. CLUBS. Pall Mall, the premier Conservative Club (1800 members) ; dtp Carlton^ 24 St. Swithin'8 Lane; (Jonserwaim CTm&, 74 St. James's Street (1200 members.)-, Constitutional^ Nortbumberland Avenue (6500 members); Junior Carlton., 80-35 Pall Mall (210U members); Junior Conservative, 43 Albemarle Street (4500 members); Junior Constitutional, 102 Piccadilly (4G00 members); Prim- roue, 4 Park Place, St. James's (6000 members); St. Stephen's, 1 Bridge Street, Westminster. — Liberal: Citt/ Liberal Gliih, Walbrook; Devonshire 50 St. James's Street (1500 members); National Liberal, Wbiteball Place (7000 members); Reform, 104 Pall IMall, the premier Liberal Club (140) members). — The Si. Jameses Club, 106 Piccadilly, is for the diplomatic service (650 members). Military and Naval and University Clubs. — Army and Navy Club, 36 Pall Mall (2400 members); Cavalry, 127 Piccadilly; East India United Ser- vice. 16 St. James's Square (2500 members); Guards^ Club, 70 Pall Mall; Isthmian, 150 Piccadilly; Junior Army and Navi/ , 10 St. James's Street; Junior United Service, 11 Charles Street (2O0O members); Naval and Military, 9i Piccadilly (2000 members); New Oxford and Cambridge, 68 Pall Mall; New University, 57 St. James's Slreet; Oxford and Cambridge, 71-76 Pall Mall; United Service, 116 Pall Mall; 1600 members (members must not hold lower rank than major in the army or commander in the navy); United University, 1 Suffolk Street. Literary, Dramatic, Artistic Clubs, etc. — Arts Club, 17 HanoverSquare. — Athenaeum Club, 107 Pall Mall, the club of the literati; 1200 members. (Dis- tinguished strangers visiting London may be elected honorary members of the Atlienfeum during their temporary residence in London.) — Authors'", 3 Whitehall Court, S.W.; Beaufort, 32 Dover St., W. ; Burlington Fine Arts Club, 17 Savile R'jw; Crichton, 10 Adelplii Terrace (proprietary); Qarrick Club, 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, lor literary men and actors (650 member^); 07'een Room, 20 Bedford Street, Covent Garden; Hogarth, •36 Dover St. ; Press Club, 107 Fleet Street; Savage Club, 6 Adelphi Terrace. Sporting Clubs. — Alpine Club, 8 St. Martin's Place, Trafalgar Square; Badminton, 98 Piccadilly (1000 members; sporting and coaching); Turf Club, 47 Clarges Street, Piccadilly; Victoria, IS Wellington Street, Strand. — Hur- lingham Club, sec p. 337. — Comp. pp. 46-40. Social and General Clubs. — Albemarle, 13 Albemarle Street, for ladies and gentlemen (750 members) ; Arthur''s, 69 St. James's Street ; Bachelors', 8 Hamilton Place; Boodle's, 28 St. James's Street (chiefly for country gen- tletnen); Cigar Club, 6a Waterloo Place (1000 members); City of London, 19 Old Broad Street, City; Cocoa Tree, 64 St. James's Street; German Athe- naeum. 93 Mortimer Street; Gresham, 1 Gresham Place, City; Grosvenor, l;-15 New Bond Street (3000 members); Jvnior Athenaeum, 116 Piccadilly; Junior Travellers, 1 Grafton Street; Marlborough, 52 Pall Mall; National, 1 Whitehall Gardens; New Travellers, 97 Piccadilly; Oriental Club, 18 Han- over Square; Orleans Club, 29 King Street, St. James's (see also p. 339); Raleigh Club, 16 Regent Street; St. George''s Club, 4 Hanover Square; Savile Club, 107 Piccadilly; Scottish Club, 39 Dover Street, Piccadilly; Thatched House Club, SQ St. James's Street; Traveller.'^, 106 Pall Mall (SdO members; cacii member must have travelled at least 500 miles from London); Union Club, Trafalgar Scjuare, corner of Cockspur Street-, Wellington, 1 Grosvenor Place; I^z7e's Chib, 38 St. James's Street; Whitehall Club, 47 Parliament Street; Windham Club, 13 St. James's Square. Ladies' Clubs. — Alexandra, 12 Grosven(ir Street (S50 members) ; New Somerville, 231 Oxford Street; Ladie.'i^ U7iiversity Club, 51 New Bond Street ; Ladies'" Victoria, 1(} Holies Street (a residential club); Pioneers", 22 Bruton St.; Writers", Norfolk Hou.':e, Norfolk Street, Strand. — The Albemarle (see above) and tlie Denison , 15 Buckingham Street, Strand (fur social discus- sions), are for ladies and gentlemen. Tlie Royal Colonial Institute, Northumberland Avenue, founded in 1868 for the purpose of 'providing a place of meeting for all -ientlemen con- nected with tlie Colonies and British India'; and the Imperial Institute (|i. 2-2) oiler many of the advantages of a good club. 75 23. Preliminary Ramble. Notliing is better calculated to afford tlie traveller some iiisiglit into the labyrintliiiie topography of London, to enable him to ascertain his hearings, and to dispel the first oppressive feeling of solitude and insignificance, than a drive through the principal quarters of the town. The outside of an omnibus affords a much better view than a cab (fares, see p. 28), and, moreover, has the advantage of cheap- ness. If the driver, beside whom the stranger should sit, happens to be obliging [and a small gratuity will generally make him so), he will afford much useful information about the buildings, monu- ments , and other sights on the route ; but care should be taken not to distract his attention in crowded parts. Even without such assistance, however, our plan of the city, if carefully consulted, will supply all necessary information. If ladies are of the party, an open Fly (see p. 28} is the most comfortable conveyance. Taking Hyde Park Corner, at the W. end of Piccadilly, as a con- venient starting-point, we mount one of the numerous omnibuses which ply to the Bank and London Bridge and traverse nearly the whole of the quarters lying on the N. bank of the Thames. Entering Piccadilly, we first pass, on the right, the Green Park, beyond which rises Buckingham Palace (p. 268). A little farther to the E., in the distance, we descry the towers of Westminster Abbey (p. 200) and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191). In Regent Street on the right, at some distance off, rises the York Column (p. 227). Passing Piccadilly Circus with the Shaftesbury Memorial (p. 232), we drive to the right through the Haymarket, near the end of which, on the left, is the theatre of that name (p.4:0). We now come to Trafalgar Square, with the Nelson Monument (p. 150) and the National Gallery (p. 152). On the right, in the direction of Whitehall, we observe the old statue of Charles I. Passing Charing Cross , with the large Charing Cross Hotel (p. 6) on the right, we enter the Strand, where the Adelphi, Lyceum, Gaiety, and other theatres lie on our left, and the Savoy, Terry's, and Strand theatres on our right (pp. 40, 41). On the left is Southampton Street, leading to Covent Garden (p. 186), and on the rightWellington Street, with Som- erset House (p. 146) near the corner, leading to Waterloo Bridge (p. 147). Near the middle of the Strand we reach the church of St. Mary le Strand (p. 145), and farther on is St. Clement Danes (p. 146). On the left we see the extensive new Law Courts (p. 144). Passing the site of Temple Bar (see p. 143), we now enter the City proper (p. 67). On the right of Fleet Street are several entrances to the Temple (p. 141), while on the left rises the church of St. Dunstan in the AVest (p. 138). At the end of Farringdon Street, diverging on the left, we notice the Holborn Viaduct Bridge (p. 94); on the right, In New Bridge Street, is the Ludgate Hill Station. We next drive up Ludgate Hill, pass St. Pauls Cathedral (p. 81) on 76 23. PRELIMINARY RAMBLE. the left, and turn to the left to Oheapside, noticing the monument of Sir Robert Peel (p. 91), a little to the N. of which is the General Post Office (p. 911. In Cheapside we observe Bow Church (p. 101) on the right, and near it the Guildhall (p. 101) at the end of King Street on the left. Quitting Cheapside, we enter the Poultry, in which the Mansion House (p. 104) rises on the right. Opposite the Mansion House is the Bank of England (p. 104), and before us is the Royal Exchange (p. 106), with Wellington's Statue in front. We then drive through King William Street, with the Statue of William IV., observing the Monument (p. 112) on the left We now quit the omnibus, and, after a walk across London Bridge (p. Ill) and back, pass through part of Gracechurch Street on the right, and follow Fenchurch Street to the station of the Lon- don and Blackwall Railway. A train on this line carries us to Blackwall, whence we ascend the Thames by one of the Greenwich Steamers^ passing London Docks (p. 129), St. Katherine's Docks (p. 129), the new Tower Bridge [p. 128), the Tower (p. 120), the Custom House (p. 113), and Billingsgate (p. 114), to London Bridge. Here we may disembark, and take an omnibus back to Hyde Park Corner, or, continuing in the same boat, may pass under the Can- non Street Station Railway Bridge , Southwark Bridge (with St. Paul's rising on the right), the Chatham and Dover Bridge, and Blackfriars Bridge. Between Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster runs the Victoria Embankment (p. 115). On the right are the Temple (p. 141) and Somerset House (p. 146). The steamer then passes under Waterloo Bridge [p. 147), beyond which, to the right, on the Embankment, stands Cleopatra's Needle [p. 116). We alight at Charing Cross Pier, adjacent to the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, and re-embark in a Chelsea Boat, which will convey us past Montague House (p. 191), New Scotland Yard (p. 191), Westminster Bridge, and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191), behind which is Westmin- ster Abbey (p. 200). On the left is the Albert Embankment, with St. Thomas's Hospital (p. 310) ; and, farther on, Lambeth Palace (p. 310) with the Lollards' Tower, and Lambeth Bridge. We then reach Vauxhall Bridge. From Vauxhall the traveller may walk or take a tramway car to Victoria Station , whence an omnibus will convey him to Oxford Street. In order to obtain a view of the quarters on the right (S.) bank of the Thames, or Surrey side, we take a light-green Atlas omnibus (not a City Atlas) in Regent Circus, Oxford Street (Plan R, 23), and drive through Regent Street, Regent's Quadrant, Piccadilly Circus , Regent Street (continued) , Waterloo Place (with the Crimean Monument and the York Column), Pall Mall East, and Charing Cross to (right) Whitehall. Here we observe, on the left,White- hall Banqueting Hall (p. 189), and on the right the Admiralty, the Horse Guards (p. 190), and the Government Offices. Our route next lies through Parliament Street, beyond which we pass Westminster 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. 77 Abbey (p. 200") and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191) on the right. The omnibus then crosses Westminster Bridge, with the Victoria Em- bankment on the left, and the Albert Embankment and St. Thomas's Hospital on the right. Traversing Westminster Bridge Road, we observe, on the right, Christchurch and Hawkstone Hall. In Lambeth Road we perceive the Church of St. George's, the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Southwark, and, opposite to it, Bethlehem Hos- pital. On the W. side of St. George's Circus, with its obelisk, rises the Blind Asylum. A little to the S. of this point, we arrive at the Elephant and Castle (on the right), where we alight, to resume our journey on a blue Waterloo omnibus. This takes us through London Road to Waterloo Road, to the right of which are the Surrey Theatre (Blackfriars Road) , Magdalen Hospital , and the Victoria Music Hall (p. 43), and on the left the South Western Railway Station. We then cross Waterloo Bridge, drive along Wellington Street, pass- ing Somerset House, and turn to the left into the Strand, which leads us to Charing Cross. — Our first curiosity having thus been gratified by a general survey of London, we may now devote our attention to its collections, monuments, and buildings in detail. 24. Disposition of Time. The most indefatigable sight-seer will take at least three weeks to obtain even a superficial acquaintance with London and its objects of interest. A plan of operations, prepared beforehand, will aid him in regulating his movements and economising his time. Fine days should be spent in visiting the docks, parks, gardens, and environs. Excursions to the country around London, in particular, should not be postponed to the end of one's sojourn, as otherwise the setting in of bad weather may altogether preclude a visit to the many beautiful spots in the neighbourhood. Rainy days had better be de- voted to the galleries and museums. The following list shows the days and hours when the varions collec- tions and other sights are accessible. In winter (Oct. to April inclusive) the collections close at the earlier hours shown in the following table ; in summer at the later hours. The early forenoon and late after- noon hours may be appropriately spent in visiting the principal churches, many of which are open the whole day, or in walking in the parks or in the Zoological and the Botanical Gardens, while the evenings may be devoted to the theatres. The best time for a promenade in Eegent Street or Hyde Park is between 5 and 7 o'clock, when they both present a remarkably busy and attractive scene. When the traveller happens to be near London Bridge (or the Tower Bridge) he should take the opportunity of crossing it in order to obtain a view of the Port of London and its adjuncts, with its sea- going vessels arriving or departing, the innumerabla river craft of all sizes, and the vast traffic in the docks. Atrip to Graves- end (see p. 360) should by all means be taken in order to obtain a proper view of the shipping, no other port in the world presenting such a sight. The following data, though carefully revised down to 1894, are liable to frequent alteration. The traveller is, therefore, recommended to consult one of the principal London newspapers with regard to the sights of the day. Our list does not include parks, gardens, and other places which, on all week-days at least, are open to the public gratis. 78 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. i 1 Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Charterhouse (p. 98) 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 104, 5, 6 Chelsea Hospital (p. 304) . . . services 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 *Crystal Palace (p. 317). . . . — 10 till dusk 10 till dusk 10 till dusk *Dulwich Gallery (p. 324). . . 2-5 10-4,5,6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 Flaxman Gallery (p. 235) . . . — — — 'Foundling Hospital (p. 239) . 11-1, 5-6 10-4 _ — Greenwich Hospital (p. 313). . 2-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 Guildhall, Picture Gallery (p. 103) 3-8 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 — , Museum (p. 103) — 10-4. 5 10-4,5 10-4, 5 ■Hampton Court Palace (p. 328) 2-4,6 10-4, 6 10-4, 6 10-4, 6 Imperial Institute (p. 282) . . — 10.30-11 10.30-11 10.30-11 -Kew Gardens (p. 334) .... 1-6 12-6 12-6 12-6 Monument (p. 112) 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 Museum, Bethnal Green (p. 131) — 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 ) 10-4, 5, 6 i 8-lOp.m. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 — , **British (p. 242) — 8-10 8-10 — , Geological (p. 230) .... _ 10-10 10-5 10-5 — , ^Natural History (p. 283) . — 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 — , Parkes (p. 233) — 10-6 10-6 10-6 — , Soane (p. 185) - - 11-5 11-5 — , **South Kensington (p. 285) - 10-10 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 — , United Service (p. 189) . . 11-4, 5 11-4, 5 11-4, 5 **National Gallery (p. 15?) . . - 10-4, 5. 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 **National Portrait Gallery (p. 132) — 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 ■^Parliament, Houses of (p. 191) — — — — Eoyal Academy, Summer Ex- hih. (p. 229) — 8-7 8-7 8-7 — , Winter Exhib. (p. 229) . . 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk — , Gibson and Diploma Gal. (p. 229) 11-4 11-4 11-4 Royal College of Surgeons (P- 183) — 11-5, 12-4 11-5, 12-4 11-5, 12-4 *'St. Paul's Cathedral (p. 81) services 9-5 9-5 9-5 Society of Arts (p. 148) .... — 10-4 10-4 — South London Fine Art Gal- lery (p. 309) 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 8-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 ■^Temple Church (p 141) . . . services 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 'Tower (p. 120) - 10-4, 6 10-4 10-4 ♦♦Westminster Abbey (p. 200) services 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk ♦Zoological Gardens (p. 237) . (see p. 238) 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. 79 Thursday Friday Saturday Admission free except when other- wise stated. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 6, 6 Great Hall closed 3-4. 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10 till dusk 10 till dusk 10 till dusk Adm. is. ; on Sat. sometimes 2«. Qd. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 7 Open on Sun. in summer only. — — 10-4 May-Aug. inclusive. — — — Donation expected. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 Closed on alternate Sundays. 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 6 — 10-4, 6 10.30-11 12-10 10.30-11 Adm. Is. Free on Frid. 12-6 12-6 12-6 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 Adm. Sd. HJ-lO 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. Qd. on Wed. ; other days free. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 8-10 8-10 8-10 10-5 — 10-10 Closed from 10th Aug. to 10th Sept. 10-4, 5, 6 104, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-6 10-6 10-6 11-5 11-5 - From March to Aug. inclusive ; from Sept. to Feb. on application. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. (id. on Wed., Thurs. , Frid.; other days free. 11-4, 5 — 11-5 On application. 11-4, 5, 6, 1 11-4, 5, 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 Adm. M. on Thurs. & Frid. ^ other days free. 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. Gd. on Wed. : other days free. — — 10-8.30 Tickets gratis. 8-7 8-7 8-7 From 1st Mon. in May to Ist Mon. in Aug. Adm. Is. 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk From 1st Mon. in Jan. to 1st Mon. in Mar. Adm. Is. 11-4 11-4 11-4 12-4, 5 _ By special permission. 9-5 9-5 9-5 10-4 10-4 10-4 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 — 10-4 10-4 10-4, 6 Adm. free (Armoury and Crown Jew- els 6d. each, except on Mon. &Sat.). 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk Adm. to chapels 6d. ; free on Mon. & Tues. 9 till dusk till dusk 9 till dusk Adm. Is.-, on Mon. Qd, 80 25. Books relating to London. The following are some of the best, and latest works on Loudon and its neighbourhood, to which the visitor desirous of further in- formation than can be obtained in a guide-book may be referred. .la., illus.; CAh ed., 189i. 2 J. Loftie; 1886. illustr;.ted; 1876. Fellow of the Society of Anii- Walks in London, by Aug. J. C. Hare; London (Historic Towns Series), by W. In and out of London, by W. J. Loftie; Hound about London (12 miles), by a uaries; 4tb ed.,^^1887. A History of London, by W. J. Loftie; 2 vols., illustrated; 2nd ed., 1884, witb appendix. London, by Walter Besant (1S93). Northern Heights of London, by Wm. Hovntt; illustrated; 1869. Thorne''s Handbook to the Environs of London; 2 vols., 1877. Memorials of London and London Life in the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries, by H. T. Rileii; 1868. Knight's London-, 2 vols.; illustrated. Cassell's Old and New London, by W. Thornbury and E. Walford; 6 vols., illustrated-, 4th ed., 1887. Cassell's Greater London (15 miles), by E. Walford; 2 vols., illustrated, Dickens's London, by T. E. Pemberton; 1876. Thackeray's London, by W. H. Rideing; 1885. Old London Street Cries and the Cries of To-day, by A. W. Tuer; illustrated; 1885. Literary Landmarks of London, by Laurence Button; 4th ed., 1888. The Highway of Letters (Fleet Street), by Thomas Archer; illustrated; 1893. Memorable London Houses, by Wilmot Harrison (1889). London in the Jacobite Times, by Dr. Doran; 2 vols., 1877. The Romance of London, by /. Timhs; 1865. Curiosities of London, by /. Timhs; 1876. Clubs and Club Life in London, by /. Timbs; illustrated. Haunted London, by W. Thornbury, edited by E. Walford. Tho Town, by Leigh Hunt; illustrated; last ed., 1893. The Old Court Suburb (Kensington), by Leigh Hunt; 1860. Saunter through the West End, by Leigh Hunt; 1861. Dickms''s Dictionary of London (Is.) and Dictionary of the Thames (1«.). Massey's Streets of London (Is.) is intended to help the traveller in ascertaining the position of any street in London. Whitaker''s Almanack (Is. and 2s. Qd.) gives a large amount of useful nformation in a condensed form. I. THEjOITY. 1. St. Panl's Cathedral. The City, already noticed in the Introduction as the commercial centre of London, has sometimes also been not unaptly termed its capital. In the very heart of it, conspicuously situated on a slight eminence , stands London's most prominent building , *St. Paul's Cathedral (PL R, 39 ; i//). Some authorities maintain that in pagan times a temple of Diana occupied the site of St. Paul's, but Sir Christopher Wren rejected this idea. Still the spot must at least have been one of some sanctity, to judge from the cinerary urns and other vessels found here, and Wren was of opinion, from remains discovered in digging the foundations of the present edifice, that there had been a church on this spot built by Christians in the time of the Romans, and demolished by the Pagan Saxons. It is believed to have been restored by Ethelbert, King of Kent, about A.D. 610. This building vi^as burned down in 961 , and rebuilt within a year. It was again destroyed by fire in 1087, but a new edifice was at once begun, though not completed for about 200 years. This church, Old St. Paul's, was 590 ft. long (30 ft. longer than Winchester cathedral, now the longest church in England), and in 1315 was furnished with a timber spire, covered with lead, 460 ft. high according to Wren's estimate, though earlier authorities state it to have been 520 ft. in height (i.e. 8 ft. higher than Cologne Cathedral). The spire was injured by lightning in 1445, but was restored, and it continued standing till 1561, when it fell a prey to the flames. The church itself was damaged by this fire, and fell into a very dilapidated condition. The S.W. tower was called the Lollards' Tower (comp. p. 310). Before the building of the Lady Chapel in 1225 the choir was adjoined by the church of St. Faith, the name of which was after- wards applied to the crypt beneath the cathedral-choir, which was used by the congregation on the demolition of their church. Near the cathedral once stood the celebrated Cross of St. Paul (Powle's Cross), where sermons were preached, papal bulls promulgated, heretics made to recant, andwitches to confess, and where the Pope's condemnation of Luther was proclaimed in the presence of Wolsey. The cross and adjacent pulpit were at length removed by order of parliament in 1643. The platform on which the cross stood was discovered in 1879, at a depth of about 6 ft., by workmen engaged in laying out the garden on the N.E. side of the church (comp. Plan). The subterranean portions of the half-ruined church were used as work- shops and wine-cellars. A theatre was erected against one of the outer walls, and the nave was converted into a public promenade, the once famous PauVs Walk. The Protector Somerset (in the reign of Edward VI.) went so far as to employ the stones of the ancient edifice in the con- struction of his palace (Somerset House, p. 146). In the reign of Charles I. an extensive restoration was undertaken, and a beautiful portico built by Inigo Jones. The Civil War, however, put an end to this work. After the Restoration, when the church was about to be repaired, its remains were destroyed by the-Great Fire of 1666 (p. 113), though the ruinous nave was used for service until 1673. — Among the numerous historical remi- niscences attaching to Old St. Paul's, we may mention that it was the burial-place of a long series of illustrious persons, and the scene of Wy- cliiFe's citation for heresy in 1337, and of the burning of Tyndale's New Testament in 1527. — The farm of Tillingham in Essex has belonged to St. Paul's since the 7th cent., representing perhaps the most ancient tenure in the country. The present church, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and begun in 1675, was opened for divine service in 1697, and com- B\EDEKEB, London. 9th Edit. Q 82 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. pleted in 1710. It is interesting to notice that the whole build- ing was completed by one architect, Sir Christopher Wren, and by one master mason, Thomas Strong, under one bishop. Dr. Compton. The greater part of the cost of construction (747, 954i.) was defrayed by a tax on coal. Sir Christopher "Wren received during the build- ing of the cathedral a salary of 200l. a year. The church, which resembles St. Peter's at Rome, though much smaller, is in the form of a Latin cross. It is 500 ft. in length and 118 ft. broad, and the transept is 250 ft. long. The inner^dome is 225 ft., the outer, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 364 ft. in height. The diameter of the drum beneath the dome is about 112 ft., of the dome itself 102 ft. (37 ft. less than that of St. Pe- ter's at Rome). In the original model the plan of the building was that of a Greek cross, having over the centre a large dome, sup- ported by eight pillars ; but the court party, which was favourable to Roman Catholicism, insisted, notwithstanding Wren's oppo- sition , on the erection of the cathedral with a long nave and an extensive choir, suitable for the Romish ritual. The church is so hemmed in by streets and houses that it is difficult to find a point of view whence the colossal proportions of the building can be properly realised. The best idea of the ma- jestic dome, allowed to be the finest known, is obtained from a distance, e.g. from Blackfriars Bridge. St. Paul's is the third largest church in Christendom, being surpassed only by St. Peter's at Rome and the Cathedral of Milan. Exterior. It is interesting to note the union of classic details and style with the essentially Gothic structure of St. Paul's. It has aisles lower than the nave and surmounted by a triforium, just as in regular Gothic churches. But the triforium, though on a large scale, is not shown from the nave ; while the lowness of the aisles is concealed on the outside by masking-walls, so as to preserve the classical appearance and cover what would be, in a Gothic church, the flying buttresses. The West Facade, towards Ludgate Hill, was brought better to view in 1873 by the removal of the railing which formerly surrounded the whole church. In front of it rises a Statue of Queen Anne, with England, France, Ireland, and America at her feet ; the present statue, by Belt, erected in 1886, is a replica of the original by Bird (1712). The facade, 180 ft. in breadth, is approached by a flight of 22 marble steps, and presents a double portico, the lower part of which consists of 12 coupled Corinthian pillars, 50ft. high, and the upper of 8 Composite pillars, 40ft. high. On the apex of the pediment above the second row of pillars , which contains a relief of the Conversion of St. Paul by Bird, rises a statue of St. Paul 15 ft. in height, with St. Peter and St. James on his right and left. On each side of the facade is a campanile tower, 222 ft. in height, with statues of the four Evan- gelists at the angles. The one on the N. side contains a fine peal of 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDJIAL. 83 84 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 12 bells, hung in 1878, and tlie other contains the largest bell in England ('Great Paul'), hung in 1882 and weighing more than 16 tons. Each arm of the transept is terminated by a semicircular por- tico, adorned with five statues of the Apostles, by Bird. Over the S. portico is a phoenix, with the inscription 'Resurgam', by Cibber ; over the N. portico, the English arms. In reference to the former it is related, that, when the position and dimensions of the great dome had been marked out, a labourer was ordered to bring a stone from the rubbish of the old cathedral to be placed as a guide to the masons. The stone which he happened to bring was a piece of a gravestone with nothing of the inscription remaining save the one word 'Resurgam' in large letters. This incident was regarded as a favourable omen, and the word accordingly adopted as a motto. At the E. end the church terminates in a circular projection or apse. The balustrade, about 9 ft. high, on the top of the N. and S. walls was erected contrary to the wishes of Wren , and is considered by modern architects a mistake. A drum in two sections, the lower embellished with Corinthian , the upper with Composite columns, bears the finely-proportioned double Dome, the outer part of which consists of wood covered with lead. The Lantern above it is support- ed by a hollow cone of brickwork resting upon the inner dome. On the top of the lantern is a ball, surmounted by a cross, the ball and cross together weighing 8960 pounds. The ball is 6ft. in diameter, and can hold ten or twelve persons. The church is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The usual Entrances are on the W. and N. The monuments may be inspected, free of charge, at any time, except during divine service, which takes place daily at 10 a.m. (choral) and 4 p.m. (choral) in the choir, and on Sundays at 8 a.m., 10.30 a.m. (fine music), 3.15 p.m., and 7 p.m. On week-days daily services are also held at 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. in the chapel in the crypt, and Holy Communion is celebrated at 8 a.m. and a short sermon preached at 1.16 p.m. in the N.W. chapel. The choir is closed except during divine service, but between 11 and 1 and between 2 and 3.30 (free) the verger admits visitors who wait at the gate of the N. ambulatory. Tickets admitting to the Library, Clock, the Whispering Gallery, and the Stone Gallery (6d.) and to the *Crypt and Vaults (6d.) are obtained in the S. transept. Tickets admitting to the Golden Gallery (Is.) and to the Ball (1».) are obtained from the keeper in the Stone Gallery. The Intekior is imposing from the beauty and vastness of its proportions, but strikes one as bare and dark. Though it is evi- dent from the care with which the caryed stone enrichments are executed that Wren did not contemplate decorating the entire in- terior in the rich style of the Italian churches of the day, it is prob- able that he intended some portions to be adorned in colour. But with the exception of Thornhiirs grisailles (see below), practically nothing was done in this direction until about 1860, when a Decor- ation Completion Fund was founded, mainly through the exertions of the Dean Milman (p. 89), for the embellishment of the interior with marble, gilding, mosaics, and stained glass. The decoration of the dome was completed in 1863-94, and the embellishment of the choir (see p. 86) was begun in 1891. The dome is adorned 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 85 with eight scenes from the life of St. Paul in grisaille by Thornhill, restored in 1854, hut hardly visible from below (see p. 89). The eight large mosaics in the spandrils of the dome, executed by Sal- viati, represent St. Matthew and St. John, designed byG'. F.Watts, St. Mark and St. Luke, by Brittan, and Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel, by A. Stevens. In the niches above the Whispering Gallery are marble statues of the Fathers of the Church. The Organ^ which is one of the finest in Great Britain, is divided into two parts, one on each side of the choir, with connecting mechanism under the choir flooring. The builder, Mr, Willis, in constructing it, used some of the pipes of the old organ by Father Smith or Schmitz, which dated back to 1694. Above the N. door is the tablet in memory of Sir Christopher Wren, with the inscription contain- ing the celebrated words, ''Lector, si monumentum requiris, circum- spice\ This tablet formerly stood at the entrance to the choir. The numerous monuments of celebrated Englishmen (chiefly naval and military officers) , which make the church a kind of national Temple of Fame (though second to Westminster Abbey, p. 200), are very rarely of artistic value, while many are remarkable for egregiously bad taste. The Grand Entbancb (W.) is a favourable point for a survey of the whole length of the nave. The N.W. or Morning Chapel, to the left, is handsomely decorated with marble. The mosaic, repre- senting the Risen Saviour, was executed by Salviati, and commem- orates Archdeacon Hale. The stained-glass window is a memorial of Dean Mansel (1868-71). Then to the left, in the N. Aisle : — L. The Crimean Cavalry Monument , in memory of the officers and men of the British cavalry who fell in the Crimean war (1854-56). L. Major-General Sir Herbert Stewart, who died in 1885 of wounds received at the battle of Abu-kru, Egypt; bronze medallion and reliefs by Boehm. L. Major-General Charles George Gordon, killed at Khartoum in 1885; sarcophagus-tomb, with bronze effigy by Boehm. R. , beneath the central arch of the aisle : *Monument to the Duke of Wellington (d. 1852), by Stevens. The bronze figure of Wellington rests on a lofty sarcophagus, overshadowed by a rich marble canopy, with 12 Qorinthian columns. Above is a colossal group of Valour overcoming Cowardice. This imposing monument still wants the equestrian effigy with which the sculptor intended it to be crowned. Though originally designed for its present position, this monument stood in the Consistory Court (p. 88) until 1893. L. Lord William Melbourne (d. 1848) and Lord Frederick Mel- bourne (d. 1853), by Marochetti. Two angels guard the closed en- trance to the tomb. — On each side is a brass plate, on which are inscribed the names of the officers and crew (484 in number) of the ill-starred line-of-battle ship Captain, which foundered with all hands off Cape Finisterre on 7th Sept., 1870. 86 1/ ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. In the N. Transept : — L. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), the celebrated painter, statue by Flaxman. Upon the broken column to his left is a medallion- portrait of Michael Angelo. L. Admiral Lord Rodney (d. 1792), by Rossi. At his feet, to the left, is History listening to the Goddess of Fame (on the right), who recounts the Admiral's exploits. L. Lieutenant- General Sir Thomas Picton (killed at "Waterloo in 1815), by Gahagan. In front of his bust is a Goddess of Victory presenting a crown of laurels to a warrior, upon whose shoulder leans the Genius of Immortality. R. Admiral Earl St. Vincent (d. 1823), the victor at Cape St. Vincent ; statue by Baily. L. General William Francis Patrick Napier (d. 1860), the his- torian of the Peninsular War, by Adams. L. Sir Charles James Napier (d. 1853) ; statue by Adams , *a prescient General, a beneficent Governor, a justMan' (corap.p. 150). R. Admiral Lord Duncan (d. 1804), who defeated the Dutch in the naval battle of Camperdown ; statue by Westmacott. L. General Sir William Ponsonby (d. 1815) , 'who fell glor- iously in the battle of Waterloo', by Baily ; a nude dying hero, crowned by the Goddess of Victory, with a falling horse in the rear. L. Admiral Charles Napier (d. 1860), commander of the Eng- lish Baltic fleet in 1854, with portrait in relief, by Adams. L. Henry Hallam (d. 1859), the historian ; statue by Theed. L. *I>r. Samuel Johnson (d. 1784) , statue by Bacon. We have now arrived at the entrance to the Choir (adm., see p. 84), the most conspicuous object in which is the Reredos, an elaborate white Parian marble structure in the Italian Renaissance style, designed by Messrs. Bodley <f' Garner and unveiled in 1888. The sculptures, by Guellemin^ represent the chief events in the life of Christ; at the top are statues of the Risen Saviour, the Virgin and Child, St. Paul, and St. Peter. The Choir-stalls are by Grin- ling Gibbons, and some of the iron work by Tijou (p. 300). The vaulting and walls of the choir are now being decorated in glass mosaic from designs by W. B. Richmond. On the central panel on the roof of the apse is Christ enthroned ■., to the right and left are Recording Angels. On the panels below the stone ribs of the roof in the apse and the adjoining bay are six figures of Virtues, viz. (beginning to the N.), Hope, Fortitude, Charity, Truth, Chastity, and Justice. The upper windows of the Apse represent the Four and Twenty Elders of the Revelation, with angels. In the adjoining bay are panels with ^Noah's Sacrifice (S.) and Melchisedech blessing Abraham (N.); the larger panels above these re- present the Sea giving up its Dead. — Of the choir proper only the eastern- most bay has its decor:ition complete. On the saucer-dome is the Creation of the Birds; on the four pendcntives are Angel-messcngers, with extended arms; in the spaces between Ihe clerestory windows ;ire (N. side") the Delphic and Persian Sibyls and (S. side) David and Solomon; and on the spandrels of the arches are Angels with the Instruments of the Paflsion. The domes of the other two bays of the choir are to exhibit the Creation of the Fishes and the Creation "of the Beasts. 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 87 The Apse, "beliiiid. the new reredos, has recently heen fitted up as the Jesus Chapel, -with a reredos bearing a copy of the Doubting of St. Thomas, by Cima da Conegliano , in the National Gallery (p. 161"). In front is the recumbent marble statue of Canon Liddon (d. 1890), designed by Bodley S,^ Oarner. There are no monuments in the N. ambulatory, but along the S. wall of the ambulatory are the following : — Reginald Heber, Bishop of Calcutta (d. 1826) ; a kneeling figure in episcopal robes, by Chantrey. The relief on the pedestal repre- sents the prelate confirming converted Indians. John Jackson, Bishop of London (d. 1884) ; by Woolner. Charles J. Blomfield, Bishop of London (d. 1857) ; sarcophagus with recumbent figure, by G. Richmond. Henry Hart Milman, Dean of St. Paul's [d. 1868) ; sarcophagus and recumbent figure, by Williamson. — On the wall at each end of this monument are fragments of stone believed to have belonged to the Temple at Jerusalem. Dr. Donne, the poet. Dean of St. Paul's from 1621 till his death in 1631, a sculptured figure in a shroud, in a niche in the wall, by Nicholas Stone (the only uninjured monument from old St. Paul's). Leaving the passage round the choir, we pass, at the entrance, on the left, a handsome pulpit of coloured marbles, erected to the memory of Captain Fitzgerald. Close by is the entrance to the Crypt (see p. 89). Then — In the S. Transept : — L. John Howard (d. 1790), the philanthropist ; statue by Bacon. On the scroll in the left hand are written the words ^Plan for the improvement of prisons and hospitals'; the right hand holds a key. He died at Cherson in the S. of Russia, while on a journey which he had undertaken 'to ascertain the cause of and find an efficacious remedy for the plague'. This monument was the first admitted to St. Paul's. L. Admiral Earl Howe (d. 1799), by Flaxman. Behind the statue of the hero is Britannia in armour ; to the left Fame and Victory ; on the right reposes the British lion. — Adjoining — L. Admiral Lord Collingwood (d. 1810), Nelson's companion in arms (p. 89), by Westmacott. L. Joseph Mallord William Turner (d. 1851), the celebrated painter ; statue by Macdowell. Opposite the door of the S. transept, in the passage to the nave, against the great piers : — L. * Admiral Lord Nelson (d. 1805), by Flaxman. The want of the right arm , which Nelson lost at Cadiz, is concealed by the cloak ; the left hand leans upon an anchor supported on a coiled up cable. The cornice bears the inscription 'Copenhagen — Nile — Trafalgar', the names of the Admiral's chief victories. The pedestal is embellished with figures in relief representing the German 88 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Ocean, the Baltic Sea, the Nile, and the Mediterranean. At the foot, to the right, couches the British lion ; while on the left is Britannia inciting youthful sailors to emulate the great hero. R. Marquis Cornwallis (d. 1805), first Governor-General of India, in the dress of a knight of the Garter ; at the hase, to the left, Britannia armed, to the right two Indian rivers, by Rossi. In the S. transept to the W. of the door : — L. Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1842), the surgeon, by Baily. L. Lieutenant- General Sir John Moore (d. 1809), by the younger Bacon. The general, who fell at Corunna, is being interred by allegorical figures of Valour and Victory, while the Genius of Spain erects his standard over the tomb. L. Lieutenant- General Sir Ralph Abercromby (d. 1801), by Westmacott. The general, mortally wounded, falls from his rearing horse into the arms of a Highland soldier. The sphinxes at the sides are emblematical of Egypt, where Sir Ralph lost his life. L. Sir William Jones [d. 1794), the orientalist, who, in Dean Milman's words, 'first opened the poetry and wisdom of our Indian Empire to wondering Europe' ; statue by Bacon. In the S. Aisle : — L. Thomas Fanshaw Middleton (d. 1822), the first English bishop in India, hy Louth. The prelate is represented in his robes, in the act of blessing two young heathen converts. A little farther on is a recess, formerly used as the Ecclesiastical or Consistory Court of the Diocese. The bas-reliefs on the walls, referring to Wellington (comp. p. 89), are by Colder Marshall (E. end) and Woodington (W. end). The wooden screen between the chapel and the nave was carved by Grinling Gibbons. At the end of the nave is the Crimean Monument, to the memory of the officers of the Coldstream Guards who fell atlnkerman in 1854, a relief by Marochetti, with the colours of the regiment hung above. In the S. aisle, near the S. transept (PI. a), is the entrance to the Upper Parts of the church (admission, see p. 84). Ascending about 110 steps, we reach a gallery (above the S. aisle), a room at the end of which contains theLibrary (12,000 volumes ; portrait of the founder, Bishop Compton; autographs of Wren, Laud, Cranmer, etc.). The flooring consists of artistically executed mosaic in wood. The large, self-supporting, winding staircase, called the Geometrical Staircase, is interesting only on account of its age. The Great Bell (east in 1716 ; 88 steps) and the large Clock (constructed in 1708 ; 13 steps more), in the N.W. tower, scarcely repay the fatigue of ascending to them. The minute hand of the clock is nearly 10 ft. long. The Whispering Gallery, in the interior of the cupola, reached by a flight of steps from the library (260 steps from the floor of the church), is remarkable for a curious echo, which resembles that of the Salle d'Echo in the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers at Paris. A slight whisper uttered by the wall on one side of the gallery is 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 89 distinctly audible to an ear near the wall on the other side, a dis- tance of 108 ft. in a direct line, or 160 ft. round the semicircle. This is the best point of view for Thornhill's ceiling-paintings, and from it we also obtain a fine survey of the interior of the church. The subjects of Thornbiirs paintings are as follows: — 1. Conversion of St. Paul; 2. Elymas the sorcerer; 3. Paul at Lystra; 4. The Gaoler at Philippi; 5. St. Paul preaching at Athens; 6. Books of magic burned at Ephesus ; 7. St. Paul before Agrippa ; 8. Shipwreck at Malta. From this point a flight of 118 steps leads to the *Stone Gal- lery, an outer gallery, enclosed by a stone parapet, which runs round the foot of the outer dome. This gallery commands an ad- mirable view of the city. The survey is still more extensive from the outer Golden Gallery above the dome and at the foot of the lan- tern, to which a winding staircase ascends in the inside of the roof. The Ball [p. 84) on the lantern is 45 ft. higher (616 steps from the tesselated pavement of the church). At the S. end of the transept is the door leading down into the *Ceypt (PI. b). To the left is a chamber lighted by four candel- abra of polished granite, in the centre of which stands the sar- cophagus of Wellington (d. 1852), consisting of a huge block of porphyry, resting on a granite base. Adjacent is the sarcophagus of Sir Thomas Picton (see p. 86), who fell at Waterloo in 1815. Farther on , exactly under the centre of the dome, is the black marble sar- cophagus of Nelson (d. 1805), containing an inner coffin made of part of the mainmast of the French flag-ship L'Orient , which was blown up at Aboukir. This sarcophagus, said, but probably er- roneously, to be the work of Torregiano (p. 216), was originally ordered by Card. Wolsey for himself fcomp. p. 328). The smaller sarcophagus on the S. is that of Nelson's comrade, Admiral Colling- wood (d. 1810), while on the N. is that of the Earl ofNorthesk (d. 1831). At the extreme W. end of the crypt is the hearse used at the Duke of Wellington's funeral, with its trappings. It was cast from guns captured in the victories of the 'Iron Duke'. The crypt also contains memorials to the Rt. Hon. William Dalley (d. 1888), Chief Secretary for New South Wales; Lord Na- pier ofMagdala (d. 1890); Sir Bartle Frere; and George Cruikshank. In a straight direction from the staircase, at the foot of which are busts of Sir John Macdonald (1815-1891), premier of Canada, and Sir Harry Parkes (d. 1885), we reach the vaults, which contain busts and fragments of monuments from the earlier building (i.e. prior to 1666). The flooring consists of memorial slabs of cele- brated artists and others. Among these are John Rennie, builder of Waterloo Bridge ; Robert Mylne, who built several other London bridges ; Benjamin West ; Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sir Thomas Law- rence ,• Sir Edwin Landseer ; John Opie ; J. M. W. Turner (buried, at his own dying request, near Reynolds); Edgar Boehm (d. 1890); Tho8. Newton, Dean of the Cathedral; an A. Dean Milman. Sir Chri- 90 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. stopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's, and Ms wife, Samuel Johnson, William Babington, Sir Astley Cooper, Sir William Jones, and Canon Liddon also repose here. A space at the E. end of the crypt, used as a morning chapel, possesses a fine mosaic pavement, executed by female convicts from Woking. In May an annual festival is held in St. Paul's for the benefit of the sons of deceased clergymen. Adm. by tickets, procured at the Corporation House, 2 Bloomsbury Place, Bloomsbury Square, W.C. The Charity School Festivals, formerly held in St. Paul's, but discontinued for some years, are to be resumed. The clerical establishment of the cathedral consists of the Dean, four Canons, 30 Prebendaries, 12 Minor Canons, and 6 Yicars Choral. Sydney Smith audi?. H. Barham, author of the 'Ingoldsby Legends', were canons of St. Paul's. — For a full account of this noble cburch, see Dean Milman's 'Annals of St. Paul's'. The street round tbe cathedral, called St. PauVs Churchyard, has been much improved by the removal of the railings before the western front of the Cathedral , which has widened the street and facilitated the passage of pedestrians, as well as given a better view of the building. On the three other sides the church is still sur- rounded by high and heavy railings, but the stone walls supporting them have recently been lowered with advantage to a height of eighteen inches. In the 16th cent. St. Paul's Churchyard was open to Paternoster Row , with a few intervening buildings , all belonging to the precincts. These disappeared in the Great Fire. Celebrated coffee-houses in the Churchyard, where authors and booksellers used to meet, were St. Paul's Coffee-House, near the archway leading to Doctors' Commons; Child's Coffee-House, a great resort of the clergy and literati; and the Queen's Arms Ta- vern, often visited by Dr. Johnson. Among the famous eighteenth century publishers of St. Paul's Churchyard may be mentioned Johnson, Hunter, Newbery , and Rivington. For Newbery, the site of whose shop (rebuilt in 1885), is at the corner next Ludgate Hill, Goldsmith is said to have written 'Goody Two Shoes', amongst other books. 2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate. Holborn. Paternoster Row. PeeVs Statue. Central Criminal Court. St. Se- pulchre's. Holborn Viaduct. Leaving St. Paul'i^ Churchyard, on the N. side of the church, we enter Paternoster Row (so called from the prayer-books form- erly sold in it), the chief seat of the publishers and booksellers. To the W., in Stationers' Hall Court, off Ludgate Hill, is situated Stationers' Hall, the guild-house of the booksellers and stationers. 2. GENERAL POST OFFICE. 91 This company is one of the few London guilds the majority of whose members actually practise their nominal craft. The society lost its mon- opoly of publishing almanacks in 1771, but still carries on this business extensively. The company distinguished itself in 1631 by printing a Bible with the word 'not' omitted in the seventh commandment. Every work published in Great Britain must be registered at Stationers' Hall to secure the copyright. The hall contains portraits of Richardson, the novelist (Master of the Company in 1754), and his wife, Prior, Steele, Bunyan, and others ; also Wesfs painting of King Alfred sharing his loaf with the pil- grim St. Cuthbert, and a stained-glass window in memory of Caxton, placed here in 1894. At the E. end of Paternoster Row, at the entrance to Cheapside (p. 100), rises the Statue of Sir Rohert Peel (d. 1850), by Behnes. Immediately to the N., on the E. side of St. Martin's le Grand, is the General Post Office East (PI. R, 39, and ///,• comp. p. 53), built in the Ionic style in 1825-29, from designs by Smirke. In this building, 390 ft. in length. Letters and Newspapers are dealt with and all the ordinary business of a postal-telegraph office carried on. Parcels are received here, but are at once sent on to the Parcel Post Office at Mount Pleasant, Farringdon Road. To the S. of the portico is the 'PosteRestante' Office. This is the headquarters of the London Postal District, and the vast City correspondence is all dealt with here. The Returned Letter Office is in Moorgate Street Buildings, off Moorgate Street, where boards are exhibited with lists of persons whose addresses have not been discovered. Postal Traffic. The number of letters delivered by post in the United Kingdom in 1874 was 962,000,000, in 1876 it was 1.019,000,000, and in 1892-93 no less than 1.790.500,000, or 46 letters per head of population. Besides letters, 259,000,000 book-packets and newspapers^ and 79,000,000 post-cards, were delivered in 1874-, 298,000,000 newspapers and book- packets, and 93,000,000 post-cards, in 1876; and 698,000,000 newspapers and book-packets, and 244,400,000 post-cards, in 1892-93. About 20-25 per cent of the letters and other postal packets received from abroad come from or are addressed to the United States. In the same period the Parcel Post forwarded 52,370,000 parcels. The sums of money sent by post- offict orders, notwithstanding the universal practice of transmitting money by cheque, and the limitation of the orders to ten pounds, are very con- siderable. Thus in 1874 there were issued 15.100,562 inland post-office orders representing a sum of 26,296, 441L The introduction of postal orders diverted part of this stream of monev, and in 1892-93 the number of post office orders was 8,963,032, worth 24,6i8",8C9^. In that year 56,590,668 postal orders were also issued, amounting in value to 21,345, 153^. The Post Office Savings Banks, established in 1861, hold at present about 76,600,000L on deposit. The profits of the English Post Office Department in 1892-93 amounted to 2,825,756L Opposite to the General Post Office East stands the General Post Office West, containing the Administrative Offices and the Telegraph Department. This imposing building was erected in 1870- 73 at a cost of 48o,000L The large Telegraph Instrument Galleries measuring 300 by 90 ft., should be visited (admission by reque- from a banker or other well-known citizen). They contain 500 ins struments with their attendants. On the sunk-floor are four steam- engines of 50 horse-power each, by means of which messages are forwarded through pneumatic tubes to the other offices in the City 92 % CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. and Strand district. The number of telegrams conveyed in the year ending Slst March, 1893, was 69,907,848. The vast and ever-growing business of the General Post Office found itself straitened for room even in these huge buildings, and the General Post Office North was built in 1890-94 to the north of Angel Street. The building is designed in the classic style by Tanner^ and will accommodate the Central Savings Bank, the Office of the Postmaster General, and the staffs of the General Secretary, the Solicitor, and the Receiver and Accountant General of the post-office. The site , from which numerous buildings were re- moved, cost 326,000^. To the N. of the Post Office lies Aldersgate Street (p. 100), a little to the E. of which is Monkwell Street (reached by Falcon Street and Silver Street), containing the Barber-Surgeons^ Court Room. Among the curiosities preserved here are a valuable portrait of Henry VIII. by Holbein, and one of Inigo Jones by Van Dyck. — Milton once lived in Aldersgate Street, and afterwards in Jewin Street, a side-street on the right. To the "W, of the General Post Office is Newgate Street, a great omnibus thoroughfare, leading to Holborn and Oxford Street. This neighbourhood was long the quarter of the butchers. InPanyer Alley, the first cross-lane to the left, once inhabited by basket- makers , is an old relief of a boy sitting upon a 'panier'. with the inscription : 'When ye have sought the city round, Yet still this is the highest ground. August the 27th, 1688'. Farther on, opposite the site of old Newgate Market, is a passage on the right leading past Christ Church, the burial-place of Richard Baxter [d. 1691), to — Christ's Hospital (PI. R, 39; III), a school for 1200 boys and 100 girls, founded by Edward VI., with a yearly income from land and funded property of about 60,000L, not all of which, however, is devoted to educational purposes. It occupies the site of an ancient monastery of the Grey Friars, founded in the 13th cent., and once the burial-place of many illustrious persons. The general govern- ment of the school is in the hands of a large 'Court of Governors', consisting of noblemen and other gentlemen of position ; but the internal and real management is conducted by the President, Trea- surer, and 'Committee of Almoners', fifty in number. The original costume of the boys is still retained, consisting of long blue gowns, yellow stockings, and knee-breeches. No head-covering is worn even in winter. The pupils (Blue Coat Boys), who are admitted between the ages of eight and ten, must be the children of parents whose income is insufficient for their proper education and main- tenance. They are first sent to the preparatory school at Hertford, whence they are transferred according to their progress to the city 2. NEWGATE PRISON. 93 establisliinent. Their education, which is partly of a commercial nature, is completed at the age of sixteen. A few of the more talented pupils are, however, prepared for a university career, and form the two highest classes of the school, known as the Grecians and Deputy- Grecians. There are also 40 King's Boys, forming the mathematical school founded by Charles II. in 1672. The school possessed many ancient privileges, some of which it still retains. On New Year's Day the King's Boys used to appear at Court; and on Easter Tuesday the entire school is presented to the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion House, when each boy receives the gift of a coin fresh from the Mint. A line in the swimming-bath marks the junction of three parishes. In the Hall, which was erected by Shaw in 1825-29, the head-pupils annually deliver a number of public orations. The 'suppings in public' on each Thursday in Lent, at 7 p.m., are worth attending (tickets from governors). Among the pictures on the walls are the Founding of the Hospital by Edward VI., ascribed to Holbein; Presentation of the King's Boys at the Court of James II., a very large work by Verrio ; Portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert, by Grant. Among the celebrated men who were educated here we may mention William Camden, Stillingfleet, Middleton, Dyer, Samuel Richardson, S. T. Coleridge, Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt, and Sir Henry Sumner Maine (d. 1888). Considerable changes have been introduced into the management of the school by a recent scheme approved by the Charity Commissioners. The number of boarders is to be reduced, that of day-scholars is to be largely increased, while the number of girls in the school at Hertford is also to be enlarged. It is proposed also to remove the principal school from London to some place in the vicinity. Opposite Christ's Hospital is Warwick Lane, leading from New- gate Street to Paternoster Row (p. 90). On the wall of the first house on the right is a curious relief of 1668, representing Warwick, the 'King-maker'. Farther on is the Cutlers' Hall, built in 1887. At the W. end of Newgate St., at the corner of Old Bailey, stands Newgate Prison (PI. R, 35 ; //), once the principal prison of Lon- don, now used as a temporary house of detention for prisoners awaiting trial at the Old Bailey Court. The present building, which was begun in 1770 by George Dance, was partly destroyed in 1780, before its completion, by the Gordon rioters, but was restored in 1782. The principal facade, looking towards the Old Bailey, is 300 ft. in length. The interior was rebuilt in 1858 on the separate cell system. Permission to inspect the prison, which has accommodation for 192 prisoners , is granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and the Sheriffs. The public place of execution, which was formerly at Tyburn near the Marble Arch (p. 271), was from 1783 till 1868 in front of Newgate. The condemned went to the scaffold through the small door, next the governor's house, on the W, front. Among the famous or notorious prisoners once confined in old Newgate were 94 2., HOLBORN VIADUCT. George Wither, Daniel Defoe , Jack Sheppard , Titus Gates , and William Penn. Old London Wall had a gateway at the bottom of Newgate Street. Adjoining Newgate is the Central Criminal Court, consisting of two divisions ; viz. the Old Court for the trial of grave offences, and the New Court for petty offences. The trials are public, but as the courts are often crowded, a fee of l-5s., according to the interest of the case , must generally be given to the door-keeper to secure a good seat. At great trials, however, tickets of admission are usually issued by the aldermen and sheriffs. No. 68 Old Bailey, near Ludgate Hill, was the house of the infamous thief-catcher , Jonathan Wild, himself hanged in 1725. A little to the W. of Newgate begins the *Holborn Viaduct (PI. R, 35, 36; //), a triumph of the art of modern street-building, designed by Haywood^ and completed in 1869. Its name is a reminiscence of the ^Hole-Bourne\ the name given to the upper course of the Fleet (p. 137), from its running through a deep hollow. This structure, 465 yds. long and 27 yds. broad, extending from Newgate to Hatton Garden, was constructed in order to over- come the serious obstruction to the traffic between Oxford Street and the City caused by the steep descent of Holborn Hill. Ex- ternally the viaduct, which is constructed almost entirely of iron, is not visible, as rows of new buildings extend along either side. Beneath the roadway are vaults for commercial purposes , and subways for gas and water pipes , telegraph wires , and sewage, while at the sides are the cellars of the houses. At the E. extrem- ity, to the right, stands 5f. Sepulchre's Churchy with its square tower, where a knell is tolled on the occasion of an execution at Newgate. At one time a nosegay was presented at this church to every crim- inal on his way to execution at Tyburn. On the S. side of the choir lie the remains of the gallant Captain John Smith (d. 1631), 'Sometime Governour of Virginia and Admirall of New England'. The first line of the now nearly illegible epitaph runs thus : — 'Here lies one conquered that hath conquer'd kings l' Roger Ascham, author of 'The Scholemaster' and teacher of Lady Jane Grey, is also buried here. Obliquely opposite, to the left, is the Holborn Viaduct Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34), and near it are the Imperial Hotel and the Holborn Viaduct Hotel (p. 9). The iron*Bridge over Farringdon Street (which traverses Holborn Valley, p. 137) is 39 yds. long and is supported by 12 columns of granite, each 4 ft. in diameter. On the parapet are bronze statues of Art, Science, Commerce, and Agriculture; on the corner-towers, statues of famous Lord Mayors. Flights of steps descend in the towers to Farringdon Street. To the left, beyond the bridge, are the City Temple (Congrega' tional church; Dr. Joseph Parker; see p. 51) and St. Andreic's 3. ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL. 95 Church, where Lord Beacon sfleld was christened, the latter erected in 1686 by Wren. Nearly opposite the church is the entrance to Ely Place, formerly the site of the celebrated palace of the bishops of Ely, where John of Gaunt, brother of the Black Prince and father of Henry IV., died in 1399. The chapel of the palace, known as *Ely Chapel (St. Etheldreda's ; see p. 52), escaped the fire of 1666 and has been recently restored. It is a good specimen of 14th cent, architecture and retains its original oaken roof. The noble E. and W. windows are splendid examples of tracery, and the former is filled with fine stained glass. The crypt is also worth visiting, and the quaint cloister, planted with fig-trees, forms a strangely quiet nook amid the roar of Holborn. A little farther on is Holborn Circus, embellished with an Equestrian Statue of Prince Albert, by Bacon, with allegorical figures and reliefs on the granite pedestal. The new and wide Charterhouse Street leads hence in a N.E. direction to Smithfield (p. 97) and the Farringdon Street Station of the Metro- politan Railway (p. 36). On the W. side of the Circus begins Hol- born, leading to Oxford Street and Bayswater ; see p. 233. On the N. side of Holborn are the Black Bull and the Old Bell, two survivals of the old-fashioned inns, with galleried court-yards, andi Furnival's Inn, formerly an inn of chancery (comp. p. 139), entirely rebuilt in 1818. Charles Dickens was living at Furnival's Inn when he began the 'Pickwick Papers'. Leather Lane, on the S . side of Furni- val's Inn, is largely inhabited by Italians of the poorer classes. In Brook Street, to the N. of the inn, is the house in which Chatter- ton killed himself in 1770. On the opposite side of the street are Barnard's Inn and * Staple Inn, two quaint and picturesque old inns of chancery (comp. p. 139), celebrated by Dickens. The hall of Staple Inn has been recently restored. 3. St. Bartholomew's Hospital. Smithfield. St. Giles, Cripplegate. Charterhouse. St. Bartholomew's Hospital (PI. R, 40 ; //), in Smithfield, to the N. of Christ's Hospital, is the oldest and one of the wealthiest benevolent institutions in London. In 1123 Rah ere, a favourite of Henry I. , founded here a priory and hospital of St. Bartholomew, which were enlarged by Richard Whittington , Lord Mayor of Lon- don. The hospital was refounded by Henry VIII. on the suppression of the monasteries in 1547. The present large quadrangular edifice was erected by Gibbs in 1730-33, and has two entrances. Above the W. gate , towards Smithfield , built in 1702 , is a statue of Henry VIII., with a sick man and a cripple at the sides. An in- scription on the external wall commemorates the burning of three Protestant martyrs in the reign of Queen Mary (p. 97). Within the gate is the church of St. Bartholomew the Less, originally built by Rah ere, but re-erected in 1823. The hospital enjoys a yearly 96 3. ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S CHURCH. revenue of 50,000i., and contains 667 beds, in whicli about 6000 patients are annually attended. Relief is also given to about 16,000 out-patients and about 142,000 casual patients. Cases of accident are taken in at any bour of the day or night, and receive immediate and gratuitous attention. The Medical School connected with the hospital is famous. It has numbered among its teachers Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, Abernethy, and other renowned physicians. The lectures are delivered in the Anatomical Theatre, built in 1842. There are also Museums of Anatomy and Botany, a well-furnished Library, and a Chemical Laboratory. The medical school has recently been rebuilt and enlarged. The great hall contains a few good portraits , among which we notice an old portrait of Henry VIII. (not by Holbein) ; Dr. Rad- clifle, physician to Queen Anne , by Kneller ; Perceval Pott , for 42 years surgeon to the Institution, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ,• Aber- nethy, the physician, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The paintings on the grand staircase , the Good Samaritan , the Pool of Bethesda, Rahere as founder of the Hospital, and a Sick man borne by monks , are the work of Hogarth, who executed them gratuitously, and was in return made a Governor for life. The neighbouring *Church of St. Bartholomew the Great, chiefly in the Anglo-Norman style, restored in 1865-69 and again in 1886 et seq., merits attention (^generally open). With the exception of the chapel in the Tower (p. 126), which is 20 years earlier, this is the oldest church in the City of London. Like the Hospital [p. 96) it was founded by Rahere in 1123, sixty years before the foundation of the Temple Church (p. 141). The existing church, consisting merely of the choir, the crossing, and one bay of the nave of the original Priory Church, is mainly pure Nor- man vs'ork as left by Rahere. Other portions of the church were alienated or destroyed by Henry VIII. From Smithfield we pass through an arched gateway, with fine dog-toothed moulding, which formed the entrance either to the nave or to an inner court, now the graveyard. Here may be seen some remains of the E.E. piers of the nave, which was somewhat later than the choir. In the 14th cent, the apsidal end of the choir was replaced by a square ending, with one large window, the jambs of which still remain. The clerestory was rebuilt at the same time and a fine Lady Chapel thrown out to the E. of the high-altar. This chapel was long used as a fringe manufactory, being mutilated almost beyond recog- nition, but was repurchased in 1886 for 6500f. Prior Bolton made farther alterations in the l6th cent, and his rebus (a 'bolt' through a 'tun'J may be seen at the base of the beautiful oriel on the S. side of the choir and on the doorway at the E. end of the S. ambulatory. The present apse was built in the recent restoration, and has restored the choir to something of its original beauty. The blacksmith's forge which occupied the N. transept has recently been removed and the transept has been restored. Fundfi, however, are still needed to complete the restoration of the church (photographs of the church sold by the verger, prices 6d.-2«. ; description of the church 1*.). The Tombs are worthy of attention. That of the founder, on the N. Bide of the sanctuary, with its rich canopy, is much later than the effigy of Rahere resting upon it. In the S. ambulatory is the handsome tomb, in alabaster, of Sir Walter Mildmay (d. 1589), Chancellor of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth and founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Many 3. SMITHFIELD. 97 of the epitaphs are curious. At the W. end of the church is a tasteful oaken screen, erected in 1839. Among the nofahle men who have lived in Bartholomew Close are Milton, Franklin, Hogarth (who was baptized in the existing font), Dr. Caius, and Washingt in Irving. The adjoining market-place of Smithfield (PI. R, 36, 40; //}, a name said to have "been originally Smooth-field , was formerly a tournament ground, and lay outside the walls of London. Here Bartholomew Fair, with its revels, was held for many ages. Sham- flghts , tilts , tricks of acrobats , and even miracle-plays were exhibited. Wat Tyler was slain here in 1381 by the then Lord Mayor, Sir William Walworth ; and here in the reign of 'Bloody Mary' many of the persecuted Protestants, including Rogers, Bradford, and Philpot, suffered death at the stake, while un- der Elizabeth several Nonconformists met with a similar fate. Smithfield was the place of public execution before Tyburn , and in 1305 witnessed the beheading of the Scottish patriot, Wi'liam Wallace. Subsequently, during a long period, Smithfield was the only cattle-market of London. The space having at length become quite inadequate, the cattle-market was removed to Copen- hagen Fields (p. 25j in 1855, and in 1862-68 the *London Central Meat Market was erected here. The building, designed by Horace Jones^ is in a pleasing Renaissance style, with four towers at the corners. It is 630ft. long, 245 ft. broad, and 30 ft. higli, and covers an area of S^/o acres. The roof is of glass and iron. A broad carriage-road intersects the market from N. to S. Beliiw the building is an extensive Railway Depot, belonging to the Great Western Co., and connected with several undergr lund railways, from which the mea* is conveyed to the market by a lilt. In the centre of Smithfield is a small gardt-n, wilh a handsome fountain. The road winding round the garden leads down to the subterranean area bel iw the market, which is a sufficiently curi.us specimen of London underground life to repay the descent. To the W. of the Meat Market is the mw Mnrket for Pork, Poultri/^ and Provisions, which was opened for business in 1S76. It is by the same architect and in the same style as the Meat Market, and measures 260 by 245 ft. Still farther to the W. (on the E. side of Farrin-don St- eet) stands another market, erected in 18S5 as a lisli-market at a cost of 435,000/., opposite which, on the W.. is aF:uii and Vegetable Market, completed in 1892. A new Fish Market was opened in 18^8 in Snow Hill , to the S. Smithfield Market affords a sight not easily paralleled, and deserves a visit. Charterhouse Street^ a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads to the W. from Smithfield to Holborn (p. 94). A little to the E. of Smithfield is the church of St. Giles (PL R. 40), Cripplegate, built in 1545 (approached by an archway in Ked Cross Street). It contains the tombs of John Milton (d. 1674), who wrote 'Paradise Losf in a house in this parish, now pulled down: Foxe (d. 1587), the martyrologist; Frobisher (d. 1594), the voyager-, and Speed (d. 1629), the topographer. Oliver Cromwell was married in this church (Aug. 22nd, 1620), and the parish register contains an entry of the burial of Daniel Defoe (d. 1731). Milton is c immemorated by a good bust, by Bacon, and as tained-glass window has been erected to his memory. Comp. J. J Badde- leifs 'Church and Parish of St. Giles' (18=^8), Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 7 98 3. CHARTERHOUSE. In the churchyard is an old bastion of London Wall, and close by, in London Wall^ is a small part of the churchyard of St. Alphage, con- taining another large and interesting fragment of the old wall (p. 63). To the E. of St. Giles, running N. from Fore Street to Chiswell Street, is Milton Street, better known as the 'Grub Street' of Pope and his contemporaries. To tlie N. E. of Smithfleld we traverse Charterhouse Square to the Charterhouse [corrupted from Chartreuse), formerly a Carthusian monastery, or priory of the Salutation (whence the name of the Salutation Tavern in Newgate Street), founded in 1371 on the site of a hurying-field for persons dying of the plague. After its dissolution by Henry VIII. in 1537, the monastery passed through various hands, including those of Lord North and Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, who made it the town-house of the Howards. Queen Elizabeth made a stay of five days at the Charterhouse await- ing her coronation, and her successor James 1. kept court here for several days on entering London. The property was purchased in 1611 by Thomas Sutton, a wealthy merchant, for his 'Hospital', i.e. a school for 40 'poor boys' and a home for 80 'poor men'. A curfew tolled every evening at 8 or 9 o'clock proclaims the number of the 'poor brethren'. These are not former pupils of the school; the fictitious instance of Thackeray's Col. Newcome, who was both a pupil and a poor brother, is said to be entirely without precedent in the real history of the institution. The school was transferred in 1872 to Godalming in Surrey, where large and handsome build- ings were erected for it. The part of the property thus vacated was sold to the Merchant Taylors' Company for their ancient school, now containing 500 boys. The Charterhouse School, which is at- tended by 440 boys besides 60 on the foundation, boasts among its former scholars the names of Barrow, Lovelace, Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Thirlwall, Leech, Havelock, and Thack- eray. Visitors are shown over the buildings by the porter any day except Sun.; but the Great Hall is closed between 3 and 4. Vis- itors may attend service in the chapel on Sun. at 11 and 4. The ancient buildings date chiefly from the early part of the 16th cent., but have been modified and added to by Lord North, the Duke of Norfolk, and others. The Great Hall is considered one of the finest spe- cimens of a 16th cent, room in London. The Great Staircase and the Great Chamber upstairs are, with the exception of the W. window of the latter, just as the Duke of Norfolk left them three centuries ago. Part of the oriiiinal Chapel (1371) remains, hut it was altered by the monks about 1500 and greatly enlarged by the Trustees of Thomas Sutton in 1612, when it received its present Jacobean appearance. It is approached by a cloister with memorials of Thackeray, Leech, Havelock. John Hul- lah, etc., and contains a fine alabaster monument of Sutton (1611) and the monuments of the first Lord Ellenborough by Chantrey and of Dr. Raine by Flaxman. The altarpiece is a copy of Francia's Pietii in the National Gallery (p. 153 •, No. 180). The initials" of Prior Houghton, who was head of the priory at the dissolution may be seen on a wall of the Washhouse Court. The two quadrangles in which the Pensioners and some of the officials reside were built about 1825-30. The Afaater s Lidge contains several portraits: Sutton, the founder of 3. ST. JOHN'S GATE. 99 the institution; Charles II.; George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham (one of Knellei'''s best portraits); Duke of Monmouth; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury ; Lord Chancellor Somers ; William, Earl of Craven ; Arch- bishop Sheldon ; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury ; and the fine portrait of Dr. Burnet, also by Kneller. A little to the W. of the Charterhouse is St. John's Lane, in which is situated St. John's Gate [PI. R, 36), an interesting relic of an old priory of the knights of St. John, with lateral turrets, erected in the late-Gothic style in 1504, by the grand-prior Docvwa. On the N. side of the gateway are the arms of the priory and of Docwra; and on the S. side those of England and of France. The knights of St. John were suppressed by Henry VIII., restored by Mary, and finally dispersed by Elizabeth. The rooms above the gate were once occupied by Cave, the founder of the 'Gentleman's Ma- gazine' (1731), to which Dr. Johnson contributed and which has a representation of St. John's Gate on the cover ; they now contain some interesting historical relics. The building is now occupied by the Order of St. John, a benevolent association engaged in ambulance and hospital work, etc. The Norman crypt of St. John's Church is part of the old priory church. In the little graveyard are buried the grandfather and other relatives of Wilkes Booth, the murderer of President Lincoln. — Clerkenwell Road runs to the W. from the N. end of St. John's Lane to Gray's Inn Road with Gray's Inn. The considerable district of Clerkenwell, now largely inhabited by watch- makers, goldsmiths, and opticians, derives its name from the 'Clerks' Well' once situated here, to which the parish clerks of London annually resorted for the celebration of miracle plays, etc. Clerkenwell Road is continued to the E. by Old Street, from which, on the right, diverges Bunhlll Row, with the Bunhill Fields Cemetery (PI. R, 40, 44), once the chief burialplace for Noncon- formists, but now disused. It contains the tombs of John Bunyan (d. 1688), Daniel Defoe (d. 1731), Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1748). Susannah Wesley (d. 1742 ; the mother of John and Charles Wesley), William Blake (d. 1827), Henry, Richard, and William Cromwell, etc. A little to the W. of this cemetery is the Friends'" Burial- Ground, with the grave of George Fox, founder of the Society of Friends or Quakers. Immediately to the S. of Bunhill Fields are the headquarters and drill-ground of the Honourable Artillery Company, the oldest mili- tary body in the kingdom. The H. A. C, as it is generally called, received its charter of incor- poration, under the title of the Guild or Fraternity of St. George, from Henry VIII. in 1537, and its rights and privileges have been confirmed by upwards of 20 royal warrants, the last dated March 1889. The officers of the Trained Bands and the City of London Militia were formerly alvsrays selected from members of this Company. Since 1660 the Captain-General and Colonel has always been either the King or the Prince of Wales. The Company, -which has occupied its present ground since 1642, consists of light cavalry, a battery of tield artillery, and a battalion of infantry. It is the only volunteer corps which includes horse-artillery. Since 1883 the H. A. C. takes precedence next after the regular forces. The Ancient and Honourable Artillery Company of Boston (Mass.), the oldest militarv body 7* 100 4. CHEAPSIDE. in America, was founded in 1638 by some members of fhe H. A. C, who had emigrated. The two corps are associated on the friendliest terms. See the History of the Company, by Lt. Col. Raikes. In City Road, facing the E. entrance of Bunhill Fields, is Wes- ley's Chapel (PI. li, 44), adjoined on the S. by Ms house. "Wesley is buried in the graveyard behind the chapel, and in front of it is Ms Statue^ unveiled on the centenary of his death (March, 1891). In Castle Street, the first street running E, to the S. of the chapel , is the Allan Wesleyan Library (p. 16 ), containing one of the finest collections of Biblical and theological works in England. In Blom- fleld Street, London Wall (PI. R, 43, 44), is the Museum of the London Missionary Society (open 10 to 3 or 4 on Tues, Thurs. , & Sat.). In Curtain Road, reached via Castle Street and Scrutton Street, is Ihe Church of St. James . which probably stands on or near the site of the old Curtain Theatre., where, according to tradition, 'Hamlef was first performed. It is not unlikely that Shakspeare acted here in his own plays. To commemorate this association a stained-glass window was erected in 1886 at the W. end of the church by Mr. Stanley Cooper. To the S.E. of the Charterhouse, is the Aldersgate Street Station (Metropolitan; p. 36). In Aldersgate Street, which leads hence to St. Martin's le Grand and St. Paul's (p. 81), the house of the first Earl of Shaftesbury (p. 306) is still standing. 4. Cheapside. Guildhall. Mansion House. St. Mary le Bow. Gresham College. Goldsmiths' Hall. Mercers' Hall. Armourers' Hall. St. Stephen's, Walbrook, From St. Paul's Churchyard (p. 90), Cheapside (PI. R, 39, and III; from the Anglo-Saxon cyppan, 'to buy', 'to bargain'), beginning at Peel's Statue (p. 91), runs to the E. and is continued to the Man- sion House (p. 104) by the Poultry. Cheapside, one of the busiest streets in the city, rich in historical reminiscences, is now lined with hand some shops. Its jewellers and mercers have been famous from a timeevenearlier than that ofhonest John Gilpin, under whose wheels the stones rattled 'as if Cheapside were mad'. Cheapside Cross, one of the memorials erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, stood here, at the end of Wood St. (p. 101), till destroyed by the Puritans in 1643 ; and the neighbourhood was frequently the scene of conflicts between the apprentices of the various rival guilds. To the right and left diverge several cross-streets, the names of which probably preserve the position of the stalls of the different tradespeople in the far back period when Cheapside was an open market. From the W. end of Cheapside, Foster Lane, behind the General Post Office, leads to the N. to Goldsmiths' Hall, re-erected in the Renaissance style by Hardxvick in 1835 (visitors must be introduced by a member). Chief objects of interest in the interior : Grand Stair- case, with portraits of George IV., by Northcote; William IV., by Hnyter; George III. and his consort Charlotte, by Ramsay; in the Committee Room (first floor), the remains of a Roman altar found 4. ST. MARY LE BOW. 101 ill digging the foundations of the present hall ; portrait of Lord Mayor Myddelton, who provided London with water by the con- struction of the New River (1644), by Jansen; portrait of Lord Mayor Sir Martin Bowes (1545), with the goblet which he bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company (out of which Queen Eliza- beth is said to have drunk at her coronation, and which is still preserved); portraits of Queen Victoria, hy Hayter; Prince Albert, by Smith; Queen Adelaide, by Shee; busts of George III., George IV., and William IV., by Chantrey; statues of Cleopatra and the Sibyl, by Story. — The Company , incorporated in 1327, has the privilege of assaying and stamping most of the gold and silver man- ufactures of England, for which it receives a small percentage. To the left, a little farther on in Cheapside (No. 143), is Sad- dlers' Hall., with a fine large hall and a good gateway. Near the corner of Wood Street, on the left, still stands the tree mentioned by Wordsworth in his 'Poor Susan'. Between Friday Street and Bread Street, on the right, once stood the Mermaid Tavern t, rendered famous by the social meetings of Shakspeare, Beaumont, Fletcher, Dr. Donne, and other members of the club founded here by Ben Jonson in 1603. John Milton was born in Bread Street (left) in 1608, and Sir Thomas More (b. 1480) in Milk Street, on the opposite side. On the right (S.) side of Cheapside, farther on, is the church of St. Mary le Bow, or simply Bow Church (so named after an earlier church on the same site borne by stone arches), one of Wreii's best works, with a tower 235 ft. high. The tower, at the top of which is a dragon is 9 ft. long, is especially admirable; 'no other modern steeple', says Fergusson, 'can compare with this , either for beauty of outline or the appropriateness with which classical details are applied to so novel a purpose'. The church has a fine old Norman crypt. Persons born within the sound of Bow-bells are popularly called Cockneys, i.e. true Londoners. A curious old rhyming couplet foretold that: — 'When the Exchange grasshopper and dragon from Bow Shall meet — in London shall be much woe.' This improbable meeting actually took place in 1832, when the two vanes were sent to the same yard for repairs. The ecclesiastical Court of Arches takes its name from having origin- ally met in the vestry of this church. To the E. of St. Mary le Bow, Queen Street, on the right (S.), leads to Southwark Bridge (p. 120); while King Street, on the left (N.), leads to the Guildhall(Pl. R,39 ; ///), or Council-hall of the city. The building was originally erected in 1411-31 for the sittings of the magistrates and municipal corporation, which had formerly been held at Aldermanbury. It was seriously injured by the great fire of 1666, but immediately restored. The unpleasing front towards King Street was erected in 1789 from designs by the younger Dance, and va- + 8ome authorities believe this stood to the N. of Cheapside, ad- joining Saddlers' Hall. 102 4. GUILDHALL. rious improvements were effected in 1865-68, including the con- struction of a new roof. Above the porch are the arms of the city, with the motto, Domine dirige nos. The Great Hall (open to visit- ors), 153 ft. long, 48 ft. broad, and 55 ft. high, is now used for various municipal meetings, the election of the Lord Mayor and members of parliament, and public meetings of the citizens of Lon- don to consider questions of great social or political interest. The open timber roof is very handsome. The stained - glass window at the E. end was presented by the Lancashire operatives in ac- knowledgment of the City of London's generosity during the Cotton Famine; that at the W. end is a memorial of the late Prince Con- sort. The two colossal and fanciful wooden figures on the W. side, carved by Saunders in 1708, are called Oog and Magog, and were formerly carried in the Lord Mayor's procession. By the N. wall are monuments to Lord Chatham, by Bacon; Wellington by Bell\ and Nelson, by Smith. On the S. wall are monuments to William Pitt by Buhb, and Lord Mayor Beckford by Moore (bearing on the pedestal the mayor's famous address to George III., which some writers affirm was never actually delivered). — Every 9th of Novem- ber the Lord Mayor, on the occasion of his accession to office, gives a great public dinner here to the members of the Cabinet , the chief civic dignitaries, and others, which is generally attended by nearly 1000 guests. The speeches made by the Queen's Ministers on this and other civic occasions are scanned attentively, as often possessing no little political significance. The expense of this banquet is shared jointly by the Lord Mayor and the Sheriffs. To the N. of the Great Hall is the Common Council Chamber, erected from the plans of Sir Horace Jones in 1885. It contains a statue of George III. by Chantrey , and in the passage leading to it are busts of Derby, Palmerston, and Canning. The Aldermen's Room contains a ceiling painted by Thornhill, and stained - glass windows exhibiting the arms of various Lord Mayors. The inter- esting old Crypt of the Guildhall , borne by clustered columns of Purbeck marble, is now, with the porch, almost the sole relic of the original edifice of 1411-31. The Free Library of the Corporation of the City of London (open daily, 10-9; on Sat. in summer 10-6) contains in its hand- some hall, built in the Tudor style in 1871-72, above 70,000 volu- mes, including several good specimens of early printing, and a large and valuable collection of works on or connected with London , its history, antiquities, and famous citizens. The special collections in- clude the library of the old Dutch church in Austin Friars (p. 106 ; with valuable MSS. and original letters of Reformers) , a carefully selected Hebrew library (new catalogue), etc. It also possesses a very fine collection of maps and plans of London, and a series of English medals. In 1893 the Library, Reading Room, and Museum were visited by 300,445 persons. On the right is the Reading Room. In 4. MERCERS' HALL. 103 to the museum is an interesting collection of ancient chronometers, clocks , watches , and watch-movements, made by memhers of the Clockmakers' Company, whose library is also deposited at the Guildhall. The *Museum (adm , see p. 78), on the sunk floor, contains a collec- tion of Roman antiquities found in London : a group of the Deee Matres, found at Crutched Friars; hexagonal funeral column, from Ludgate Hill; Roman tesselated pavement, from Bucklersbury (1869) ; sarcophagus of the 4th cent., from Clapton; statue of a Roman warrior and some architectural antiquities found in a bastion of the old Roman wall in Bishopsgate; a curious collection of old London shopsigns (17th cent.), including that of the Boar's Head in Ea<;tcheap (mentioned by Sbakspeare); a large collection of smaller aniiquities, terracotta figures, lamps, vases, dishes, goblets, trinkets, spoons, pins, needles, etc. There are also two sculptured slabs from^Nineveh. Two glass-cases in the centre contain autographs, including a very valuable one of Shakspeare, dated 10 Mar., 1613 (purchased for 147;.); also those of Cromwell, Wellington, and Nelson. In two other cases are impressions of the great seals of England from 757 down to the present time. The Corporation Art Gallery (adm., see p. 78), on the right of the entrance to the (ruildhall, contains the chief historical portraits and other paintings belonging to the Corporation, collected here from the old council chamber and committee-rooms, and also a number of paintings by >SiV John Oilbert, presented by the artist, and a few other recent donations. Among the busts are those of Cobden, Gladstone, Beaconsfield, Granville Sharp (by Chantrey), and Nelson. Loan exhibitions are occasionally held. The numerous pigeons (fed daily about 11 a.m.) which congregate in the nooks and crannies of the Guildhall, or fly about the yard, will remind the traveller of the famous pigeons of St. Mark at Venice. Brewers^ Hall, in Addle Lane , to the N. of the Guildhall, has an ancient kitchen and a curiously decorated leaden cistern. — At the corner of Basinghall Street, to the E. of the Guildhall, stands Gresham College, founded by Sir Thomas Gresham (p. 106) in 1579 for the delivery of lectures by seven professors , on law, divinity, medicine, rhetoric, geometry, astronomy, and music. The lectures were delivered in Gresham's house in Bishopsgate Street until 1843, when the present hall was erected out of the accumulated capital. The lecture theatre can hold 500 persons. According to Gres- hams will, the lectures were to be delivered in the middle of the day, and in Latin, but the speakers now deliver their courses of four lectures each in English, at 6 p.m. (free). From Gresham College we return to Cheapside by Ironmonger Lane, in which is the entrance to Mercers' Hall, the guild-house of the silk mercers, rebuilt in 1884, the fagade of which is in Cheapside. The interior (otherwise uninteresting) contains por- traits of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's School, and Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Exchange, as well as a few relics of Sir Richard Whittington. The chapel, which is adorned with modern frescoes of Becket's Martyrdom and the Ascension, occupies the site of the house in which Thomas Becket was born in 1119, and where a hospital and chapel were erected to his memory about the year 1190. Henry VIII. afterwards granted the hospital to the Mer- cers, who had been incorporated in 1393. Old Jewry , to the E. of Mercers' Hall, derives its name from the synagogue which stood here prior to the persecution of the 104 4. MANSION HOUSE. the room at the top of the staircase Jews in 1291. On its site, close to the Bank, now stands the Grocers' Hall, the guild-house of the Grocers, or, as they were once called, the ^Pepperers\ v/ith a fine stained-glass window. This company is one of the oldest in London. At No. 26 Old Jewry are the headquarters of the City Police. Old Jewry is continued towards the N. by Coleman Street, in which, on the right, is sil uated the Armourers Hall (Pi. R, 39 ; III), founded about 1450, and spared by the Are of 1G66. It contains an inter- esting and valuable collection of armour and old plate. The continuation of Cheapside towards the E. is called the Poultry, once the street of the poulterers, at the farther end of which, ontheright, rises the Mansion House ( PL R, 39 ; i//), the offi- cial residence of the Lord Mayor during his year of office, erected by Dance in 1739-52. Lord Burlington sent in a design by the famous Italian architect Palladio, which was rejected on the naive question of one of the aldermen — 'Who was Palladio — was he a freeman of the city?' The building is preceded by a Corinthian hexastyle portico. The tympanum contains an allegorical group in relief by Sir Robert Taylor. In the interior, to the left of ttie entrance, is the Lord Mayor's police- court, open to the public daily from 12 to 2. The long suite of state and reception rooms are only shown by the special permission of the Lord Mayor. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, in which the Lord Mayor gives his banquets and balls, said to be a reproduction of the hall described under that name by Vitruvius. It contains several pieces of modern English sculpture: *C'aractacus and the nymph Egeria, by Foley; Genius and the Morning Star, by Baily ; Conius, by Lough; Griselda. by Marshall. The interior of St. Stephen's Church, WaZ&roo/c, . behind the Mansion House , with its graceful dome supported by Corinthian columns, is considered one of Wren's masterpieces. Altarpieee by West, Stoning of St. Stephen. Walbrook leads direct to Cannon Street Station (p. 37). Queen Victoria Street, 73 M. in length, one of the great modern improvements of London, constructed at vast expense, leads directly from the Mansion House to Blackfriars Bridge (see p. 117). 5. The Bank of England. The Exchange. Stock Exchange. Merchant Taylors' Hall. Crosby Hall. St. Helen's Church. Cornhill. Leadenhall Market. St. Andrew'' s Undershaft. Corn Exchange. Toynbee Hall. People's Palace. The space (PI. R, 39, 43 ; ///) enclosed by the Mansion House, the Bank, and the Exchange, is the centre from which radiate the most important streets of 'the City'. It is also the chief point of convergence of the London omnibus traffic, which during business hours is enormous. Opposite the Mansion House, and bounded on the S. by Thread- needle Street, on theW. by Prince's Street, on the N. by Lothbury, 5. BANK OF ENGLAND. 105 and on the E. by Bartholomew Lane, stands the Bank of England (PI. R,39,43 ; ///), an irregular and Isolated building of one story, the W. part of which was designed by Sir John Soane in 1788. The external walls are entirely devoid of windows, the Bank being, for the sake of security, lighted from interior courts. The only attrac- tive portion of the architecture is at the N.W. angle, which was copied from the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. The edifice covers an area of about four acres. The Bank was founded in 1691 by William Paterson, a Scots- man. It is a joint stock bank, and was the first of the kind estab- lished in the kingdom. Having exclusive privileges in the me- tropolis , secured by Royal Charter, it continued to be the only joint stock bank in London till 1834, when the London and West- minster Bank, soon to be followed by many others, was established. The Bank of England is still the only bank in London which has the power of issuing paper money. Its original capital was l,200,000i., which has since been mnltiplied more than twelve- fold. It now employs 900 persons at salaries varying from 50i. to 1,1001. (in all 210, 000^.). The vaults usually contain about 20 mil- lion pounds sterling in gold and silver , while there are over 25 millions of pounds sterling of the Bank's notes in circulation. The Bank receives 200,000i. a year for managing the national debt (now amounting to about 670,000,000^.), besides which it carries on business like other banks in discounting bills, receiving deposits, and lending money. It is bound to buy all gold bullion brought to it, at the rate of ^l. lis'. 9d. per.oz. The average amount of money negociated in the Bank per day is over 2,000,000i. The business offices of the Bank are open to the public daily from 9, to 3 ; the Printing, Weighing, and Bullion Offices are shown only by the special order of the Governor or Deputy-Governor, to whom an introduction must be obtained. The account-books of the Bank are ruled and cut in the Ruling Room, and bound in the Binding Room. The Bank also contains a general PiHnt- ing Room, and a special Bank-note PiHniing Room, where 15,000 new bank- notes are produced daily. Many notes of ICKJO?. are printed, and cases have been known of the issue of notes for as large sums as 50,000?. or 100,000^ The Bank pays above 70,000?. annually to the Stamp Oflice for stamps on notes ^ and it is estimated that its losses, from forgeries, etc., have amounted at times to more than 40,000?. annually. The note print- ing-press is exceedingly interesting. In the Old Note Office the halves of old bank-notes are kept for a period of ten years. All notes paid into the Bank are at once cancelled, so that in some cases the active life of a bank-note may not be longer than a single day. The cancelled notes, however, are kept for ten years, in case they may be required as testi- mony in a court of law. Every month the notes received in the corre- sponding month ten years ago are burned; and tlie furnace provided for this purpose, 5 ft. in height and 10ft. in diameter, is said to be completely filled on each occasion. The stock of paid notes for five years amounts to about 80 millions; if the notes were joined end to end they would form a ribbon 13,000 M. long, while their superficial extent would almost equal that of Hyde Park. The Bank-Note Autograph Books contain the signatures of various royal and distinguished personages. A bank-note 106 5. ROYAL EXCHANGE. for i,000,OlO/. is also exLibited to the curious visitor. The Weighing Of- fice contain' a machine for weighing sovereigns (33 per minute), which throws those of full weight into one compartment and the light ones into another. The Bullion Office is the treasury for the precious metals. The Bank is protected at night by a small garrison of s( Idiers. In Post Office Court, Lombard Street, is the Bankers' Clearing Houie^ a useful institution through which bankers obtain the amount of cheques and bills in their hands without the trouble of collecting them at the various banks on which they are drawn. The bills and cheques received by the various bankers during the day are here compared, and the difference settled by a cheque on the Bank of England. The amount changing hands here is enormous, reaching in the year ending Dec. 31st,, 1892, the sum of 6,481,562,000/. (1,318,986,C00;. less than in 1890). In Capel Court, opposite the Bank , is tlie Stock Exchange, the headquarters of the Stock-brokers (about 1300 in number) and Stock-jobbers (about 2000), each of whom pays a large entrance fee and an annual subscription of 30 guineas. Strangers are not ad- mitted. The Stock Exchange (familiarly known in the City as 'the house') has recently been much enlarged. In Throgmorton Street, to the N. of the Stock Exchange, is the Drapers' Hall, containing a portrait of Nelson by Sir William Beechey, and a picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son James I., attributed to Zucchero. Adjoining is the Drapers' Garden, con- taining one or two old mulberry-trees. The Dutch Church in Austin Friars, behind the Drapers' Hall, dates from the 14th cent, and is one of the few ecclesiastical edi- fices which escaped the Are of 1666. It contains numerous more or less interesting graves of the 14-16th centuries. The Royal Exchange (PI. R, 43 ; III), built in 1842-44 by Tite, a successor to the first Exchange erected in 1564-70 by Sir Thomas Gresham, is preceded by a Corinthian portico , and approached by a broad flight of steps. The group in the tympanum is by West- macott : in the centre is Commerce, holding the charter of the Ex- change in her hand ; on the right the Lord Mayor , municipal officials, an Indian, an Arab, a Greek, and a Turk; on the left English merchants, a Chinese, a Persian, a Negro, etc. On the architrave below is the inscription : 'The Earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof. The interior of the Exchange forms a quadrangular covered court surrounded by colonnades. In the centre is a statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough; in theN.E. and S.E, corners are statues of Queen Elizabeth, by Watson,, and Charles II. The walls of the coloni\ades bear the armorial bearings and products of the different countries of Europe and America, in encaustic painting. The tesselated pavement of Turkey stone is the original one of Gresham's Exchange, opened by Queen Elizabeth on June 23rd, 1571. The chief business hour is from 3.30 to 4.30 p.m., and the most im- portant days are Tuesdays and Fridays. On the E. side rises a campanile, 180 ft. in height. On the front (E.) of the tower is a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham , and at the top is a large gilded 5. MERCHANT TAYLORS' HALL. 107 vaue in the shape of a grasshopper (Gresham's crest). The shops on the outside of the Exchange greatly disfigure the building. Nearly opposite the Exchange is No. 15 Cornhill, occupied by Messrs. Birch, confectioners, and said to be the oldest shop in London. At the E. end of the Exchange a staircase, adorned with a statue of Prince Albert by Lough, ascends to Lloyd's Subscription Rooms, the central point of every kind of business connected witb navigation, maritime trade, marine insurance, and shipping intel- ligence. The vestibule is adorned with a statue of Huskisson by Oibson. On the wall is a tablet to the 'Times' newspaper, erected in recognition of the public service it rendered by the exposure of a fraudulent financial conspiracy of gigantic character. The first room is used by Underwriters; the second is the Reading-room, containing a series of huge ledgers in which the most detailed information as to the merchant-shipping of the world is carefully posted from day to day ; the third or 'Captains' Room' is a restaurant accessible only to members of 'Lloyd's' and their friends. In front of the Exchange is an Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Chantrey, erected in 1844, beside which is a handsome fountain with a female figure. On the S.E. side of the Exchange is a statue (erected in 1882) of Sir Rowland Hill , the inventor of the cheap postal system. Behind the Exchange, in Threadneedle Street, is a statue, in a sitting posture, of Peabody (d. 1869), the American philanthropist, by Story, erected in 1871 by public subscription. George Peabody, an American merchant, who carried on an extensive business and spent much of his time in London , gave at different times upwards of half a million of money for the erection of suitable dwellings for the working classes of the metropolis. The property is managed by a body of trustees. The number of persons accommodated in the Peabody Buildings is about 20,000, each family paying an average weekly rent of about 4.?. %d., which includes the use of baths and wash-houses. The capital of the fund now amounts to about 1,110,000/. Mr. Peabody declined a baronetcy offered by the Queen, but accepted a miniature portrait of Her Majesty. He spent and bequeathed still larger sums for educational and benevolent purposes in America, the grand total of his gifts amounting to nearly 2,000,000/. sterling. Farther along Threadneedle Street, beyond Finch Lane, is the Merchant Taylors' Hall, the largest of the London Companies' halls, erected, after the Great Fire of 1666, by Jarman (admission on application to a member). The company was incorporated in 1466. The handsome hall contains some good portraits : Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; Duke of York, by Lawrence ; Duke of Wellington, by Wilkie ; Charles I. ; Charles II. ; James II. ; William III. ; Queen Anne; George III. and his consort; Lord Chancellor Eldon, by Briggs ; Pitt, by Hoppner. There is also a valuable collection of old plate. The small, but interesting Crypt was spared by the Fire. Threadneedle Street ends at Bishopsgate Street Within , in which , near the point of junction , stands * Crosby Hall, built in 1466 by Alderman Sir John Crosby, and once occupied by the notorious Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard HI. The 108 5. ST. HELEN'S CHURCH. building subsequently belonged to Sir Thomas More, and it is mentioned by Shakspeare in his 'Richard III.' For a long time it was used for the reception of ambassadors, and was considered the finest house in London. During the Protectorate it was a prison ; and it afterwards became in turn a meeting-house, a warehouse, and a concert and lecture room. It has been lately restored, and is now used as a restaurant (p. 14). Crosby Hall deserves a visit as being one of the few existing relics of the domestic architecture of mediaeval London, and the only one in the Gothic style. The present street front and many parts of the interior do not belong to the ancient structure. The Banqueting Hall has a fine oaken roof. St. Helen's Church, near Crosby Hall, called by Dean Stanley the 'Westminster Abbey of the City', once belonged to an ancient nunnery and dates originally from 1145-50. Among other old monuments, it contains those of Sir John Crosby and Sir Thomas Gresham (see p. 103). The Latin inscription on the tomb of Sir Julius Cffisar [d. 1636), Master of the Rolls in the reign of James I., is to the effect that he had given his bond to Heaven to yield up his soul willingly when God should demand it. His monument, in the Chapel of the Holy Ghost , is by Nicholas Stone. . Over the picturesque 'Nuns' Gate' is a recent inscription to Alberico Gen- tile , the Italian jurist , and professor of civil law at Oxford, who was buried near it. A stained-glass window was erected in 1884 to the memory of Shakspeare, who was a parishioner in 1598 and is rated in the parish books for bl. 13s. Ad. See 'Annals of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate' , by Rev. J. E. Cox, D.D. (1876). — In St. Helen's Place is the modern Hall of the Leather seller s , a com- pany incorporated at the end of the 14th century. The building is erected over the old crypt of St. Helen's Nunnery. The National Provincial Bank of England^ 112 Bishopsgate Street, is worth visiting for the beautiful interior of its large hall, a remarkable specimen of the Byzantine-Romanesque style, with polished granite columns and polychrome decoration. Bishopsgate Street Within is continued to the N. by Bishopsgate Street Without {i.e. outside the walls'), passing (on the left) Liver- pool Street (Station, see p. 32). Shoreditch, the continuation of Bishopsgate Street, leads to the chief goods depot of the Great Eastern Railway, beneath which a fish, fruit, and vegetable market was opened in 1882. To the E. lies Spitalfields (p. 67), beyond which is Bethnal Green (p. 67). At No. 204 High Street, Shore- ditch, is the Standard Theatre (PI. R, 44), a characteristic 'East End' place of amusement (see p. 42). The Britannia Theatre (PI. B, 44), in Hoxton Street, lies to the N. W., in the crowded district of Hox- ton. Shoreilitch High Street is continued due N. by Kingsland Road to Kingsland and to Dalston, where the German Hospital is situ- ated. Still farther to the N. are Stoke Newington and Clapton. 5. CORNHILL. 109 lu Cornhill , tlie street wMcli leads to the E. straight past the S. side of the Exchange, rises on the right (S.) St. Michael's Church., with a large late-Gothic tower, huilt by Wren, and restored hy Sir G. G. Scott. Farther on is St. Peter's Church, which accord- ing to a groundless tradition was originally built by the ancient Britons. Gray, the poet (1716-71"), was born in the house which formerly occupied the site of No. 41 Cornhill. In Leadenhall Street, which continues Cornhill, stands, on the right and near the corner of Gracechurch Street, Leadenhall Market, one of the chief marts in London for poultry, game, and hides (seep. 261. Farther on, to the left, is the small church of St. Andrew Undershaft {i.e. under the maypole, as the maypole which used to be erected here was higher than the tower of the church); the turreted late -Gothic tower dates from 1532. At the end of the N. aisle is the tomb of Stow, the antiquary (d. 1605). Still farther on, on the same side, is the Church of St. Catherine Cree, with an interior by Inigo Jones, being the suc- cessor of an older church in which Holbein (d. 1543) is said to have been interred. The character of the services held here by Archbp. Laud in i631 at the consecration of the church formed one of the charges in his trial. The old House of the East India Company, in which Charles Lamb was a clerk, stood at the corner of Leaden- hall Street and Lime Street. The New Zealand Chambers {^o. 34), nearly opposite St. Andrew Undershaft's, are one of Norman Shaw's reproductions of medifeval architecture. Leadenhall Street is joined at its E. end by Fenchurch Street (see below). Lombard Street and Fenchurch Street, forming a line on the S. nearly parallel to Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, are also among the busiest thoroughfares of the city. Lombard Street has been for ages the most noted street in London for banking and finance, and has inherited its name from the 'Lombard' money dealers from Genoa and Florence, who, in the 14th and 15th centuries, took the place of the discredited and persecuted Jews of 'Old Jewry' as money lenders. Fenchurch Street reminds us by its name of the fenny character of the district when the old church was built (drained by the little stream of 'Lang bourne' running into the 'Walbrook'if. On the N, side of the street is the Elephant Tavern (rebuilt), where Hogarth lodged for some time, and which was once adorned with several of his works. Adjacent is the Iron- mongers' Hall, whose company dates from the reign of Edward IV., with an interesting interior, portraits of Izaak Walton and Admiral Hood, etc. Fenchurch Street is connected with Great Tower Street by Mincing Lane (so called from the 'minchens', or nuns of St. Helen's, to whom part of it belonged) , which is the central point of the colonial wholesale trade. The fine Tower of All Hallows \ Mr. Loftie thinks 'fen' may be a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon /otn (hay), as 'grace'' in Gracechurch Street is of grais. 110 5. CORN EXCHANaE. Staining in this lane is one of the oldest of the relics wldch have survived the Great Fire. The Clothworkers' Hall^ in the same street, dates originally from the 15th century. A little to the E., in Mark Lane [originally Mart Lane), is tlie Corn Exchange (PL R, 43 ; ///), and near it is Fenchurch Street Station (for the railway to Blackwall, p. 34). On the E. side of Mark Lane is Hart Street, with the Church of St. Olave, interesting as having survived the Great Fire, and as the church once frequented by Samuel Pepys (d. 1703). The picturesque interior contains a numher of curious old tombs, including those of Pepys and his wife. A bust of Pepys was placed on the S. wall in 1884. Many persons who died of the plague in 1665 are buried in the churchyard. In the same street once stood a monastery of the 'Crossed Friars', a reminiscence of whom still exists in the adjoining street of Crutched Friars. — From the junction of Fenchurch Street and Leadenhall Street, Aldgate High Street runs E. to the Aldgate Station of the Metropolitan Railway. On theE. margin of the City proper lie Whitbchapi^l, a district chiefly inhabited by artisans, and Hounusditch, the quarter of Jew brokers and second-hand dealers, whence the Minories lead south- wards to the Tower and the Thames. In the Minories rigfes the old Church of the Trinity, once belonging to a Minorite nunnery, and containing the head of the Duke of Suffolk (beheaded, 1554) and several curious old monuments. The main thoroughfare traversing this E. London district is Whitechapel Road, contiuued by Mile End Road, leading to Bow and Stratford (comp. p. 342). To the left, about 1/4 M. beyond Aid- gate Station (p. 36), diverges Commercial Street, in which stands St. Jude's Church (PL R, 47 ; III), containing copies of four of the principal works of Mr. G. F. Watts, finished off by that artist himself ('Love and Death', 'Messenger of Death', 'Death crown- ing Innocence', 'The Good Samaritan'). The exterior is adorned with a fine mosaic after Watts. Adjoining tlie churcli is Toynbee Hall, named after Arnold Toynbee^ who died in the prime of youth (in 1883), while actively engaged in lecturing on political economy to the working-men of London. The hall, which is a 'halF in the academic sense, contains rooms for about 20 residents, chiefly Oxford and Cambridge graduates desirous of sharing the life and experiences of the E. end poor. It also contains drawing, dining, reading, and lecture rooms, a library, etc., in which numerous social meetings are held for the people of the neighbourhood. The warden is the Rev. Canon S. Karnett, vicar of St. Jude's. Those interested in work of tliis kind should write to the secretary for cards of admission. Toynbee Hall is also one of the centres of the 'University Extension Lectures' scheme. — Ojford House, Mape St., Bethnal Green Road, and Mansfield House, 143 Barking R;,ad, Canning Town, are similar institutions. -^ ^'0"n E.ihiintion of Pictures, established by Mr. and Mrs. Barnett in 1880, is held for a fortnight or three weeks every Easter (10-10; free) in the schoolrooms adjoining St. .Jude's. It generally contains some of the best works of modern English artists, and now ranks among the artistic events' of the year. In Mile End Road, about V2 M. farther on, 'is the People's 6. LONDON BRIDGE. 1 1 1 Palace for East London, a large institution for the 'recreation and amusement, the intellectual and material advancement of the vast artisan population of the East End'. Its form was suggested by the 'Palace of Delight' described in Mr. Walter Besant's novel, 'All Sorts and Conditions of Men'; and the nucleus of the 100,000Z. required for its erection was furnished by an endowment of Mr. J. F. Barber Beaumont (d. 1841). This has been largely supple- mented by voluntary public subscriptions, including 60,000^ from the Drapers' Company. The large ^Queens' JIaU., opened by ^ueen Victoria in May, 1887, is adorned with statues of the queens of England, etc., by F. Verheyden. When complete the Palace will comprise technical and trade schools, a reference library, reading- rooms , a covered garden and promenade , an open-air garden and recreation ground , swimming-baths, gymnasia, schools of cookery and needle- work, etc. Several of these have already been erected. Exhibitions, concerts, and entertainments of various kinds are held here ; and the evening classes are attended by about 3000 students. 6. London Bridge. The Monument. Lower Thames Street. Fishmongers' Hall. St. Magnus the Martyr s. Billingsgate. Custom House. Coal Exchange. King William Street, a wide thoroughlare with handsome build- ings, leads S.E. from the Bank to London Bridge. Immediately on the left, at the corner of Lombard Street, is the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, erected in 1716, by Hawksmoor. It contains a tablet to the memory of Newton, the friend of Cowper the poet, with an epitaph by himself. Newton's remains , however, were removed to Olney in 1893. Farther on, at the point where King William Street, Gracechurch Street, Eastcheap, and Cannon Street (_p. 119) converge, on a site once occupied by Falstaff's 'Boar's Head Tavern', rises the Statue of William IV., by Nixon. Adjacent are the Monu- ment Station of the Underground Railway (p. 37) and the City Ter- minus of the Electric Railway (p. 113). To the left, in Fish Street Hill, is the Monument (see p. 112). On each side of the first arch of London Bridge, which crosses Lower Tfiames Street (p. 113), are flights of stone steps descending to the street below. London Bridge [PI. R, 42; IlT), until a century ago the only bridge over the Thames in London, and still the most important, connects the City, the central point of business, with the Borough, on the Surrey (S.) side of the river (see p. 307). The Saxons, and perhaps the Romans before them, erected various wooden bridges over the Thames near the site of the present London Bridge , biit these were all at different periods carried away by floods or destroyed by fire. At length in 1176 Henry II. instructed Peter, chaplain of the church of St. Mary Cole, to construct a stone 1 1 2 6. THE MONUMENT. bridge at this point, but the work was" not completed till 1209, in the reign of Henry's son, John. A chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, was built upon the bridge , and a row of houses sprang up on each side, so that the bridge resembled a continuous street. It was terminated at both banks by fortified gates , on the pinnacles of which the heads of traitors used to be exposed. In one of the houses dwelt Sir Jolin Hewitt, Lord Mayor in the time of Queen Elizabeth , whose daughter , according to the romantic story, fell into the river, and was rescued by Edward Osborne, his apprentice. The brave and fortunate youth afterwards married the young lady and founded the family of the present Uuke of Leeds. The present London Bridge, 33yds. higher up the river than the old bridge (removed in 1832), was designed by John Rennie, a Scottish engineer, begun in 1825 under the superintendence of his sons. Sir John and George Rennie, and completed in 1831. The total outlay, including the cost of the approaches , was about 2,000,000^. The bridge, 928ft. long and 54ft. broad, is borne by five granite arches, of which that in the centre has a span of 152 ft. The lamp-posts on the bridge are cast of the metal of French cannon captured in the Peninsular War. It is estimated that 15,000 vehicles and about 100,000 ped- estrians cross London Bridge daily, a fact which may give the stranger some idea of the prodigious traffic carried on in this part of the city. New-comers should pay a visit to London Bridge on a week- day during business hours to see this busy scene and hear the almost deafening noise of the traffic. Stoppages or 'blocks' in the stream of vehicles , of course , sometimes take place ; but, thanks to the skilful management of the police, such interruptions are seldom of long duration. One of the police regulations is that slow-moving vehicles travel at the sides, and quick ones in the middle. London Bridge divides London into 'above' and 'below' bridge. Looking down the river we survey the Porf of London, the part immediately below the bridge being called the Pool. To this portion of the river sea-going vessels of the largest size have access. On the right and left, as far as the eye can penetrate the smoky atmosphere, are seen forests of masts ; while high above and behind the houses on both banks rises the rigging of large vessels in the various docks. Above bridge the traffic is carried on chiefly by penny steamboats and coal barges. Among the buildings visible from the bridge are, on the N. side of the river, the Tower, Billingsgate Market, the Custom House, the Monument, St. Paul's, a great number of other churches, and the Cannon Street Station, while on the Surrey side lie St. Saviour's Church, Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, and the ex- tensive double station of the South Eastern and Brighton Railways. An admirable survey of the traffic on the bridge as well as on the river is obtained from The Monument (PI. R, 43; ///), in Fish Street Hill , a little to the N. This consists of a fluted column, 202 ft. in height, designed by Wren, and erected in 1671-77 in com- 6. FISHMONGERS' HALL. 113 memoration of the Great Fire of London, whicli, on 2-7th Sept., 1666, destroyed 460 streets with 89 churches and 13,200 houses, valued at 7,335,000?. The height of the column is said to equal its distance from the house in Pudding Lane in which the fire broke out. A winding staircase of 345 steps [adm. 3d.) ascends the column to a platform enclosed by an iron cage (added to put a stop to sui- cides from the monument), above which rises a gilt urn with blaz- ing flames, 42 ft. in height. The pedestal bears inscriptions and allegorical reliefs. The City and South London Electric Railway passes under the Thames just above London Bridge by means of two separate tunnels for the 'up' and 'down' traffic. This underground electric railway, 81/4 miles in length, runs from the City Terminus close to the Monument (PI. R, 43; ///) to Stockwell (PI. G, 32), with intermediate stations at the Borough^ Elephant and Castle^ Ntw Street (Kennington), and Kennington Oval, all on the Sur- rey side of the river. The entire journey is performed in 1/4 lir., by trains running every 5 minutes, a uniform fare of 2d. for any distance being paid on entering the stations. At each station powerful hydraulic lifts convey the passengers between the streets and the platforms, while there are also broad and convenient staircases. This, the first electric railway in London, was opened for traffic in Nov. 1890. having taken about four years to construct. The total cost was 200,0003. per mile. An extension to Clapham Common and Wandsworth is proposed. Immediately to the W. of London Bridge , at the lower end of Upper Thames Street, stands Fishmongers' Hall, a guild-house erected in 1831 on the site of an older building. The Company of Fishmongers existed as early as the time of Edward L It originally consisted of two separate trades , that of the Salt- Fishmongers and that of the Stock- Fishmongers, which were united to form tlie pre- sent body in the reign of Henry VIII. The guild is one of the richest in London , possessing an annual revenue of 20, OOOi. In politics it has usually been distinctively attached to the Whig party, while the Merchant Taylors are recognised as the great Tory com- pany. On the landing of the staircase is a statue of Lord Mayor Walworth (a member of the company) , who slew the rebel Wat Tyler (p. 97). Among the objects of interest in the interior are the dagger with which that rebel was slain ; a richly embroidered pall used at Walworth's funeral ; a chair made out of part of the first pile driven in the construction of Old London Bridge, supposed to have been submerged in the Thames for 650 years ; portraits of William III. and his queen by Murray, George II. and his consort by Shackleton, and Queen Victoria by Herbert Smith. Lower Thames Street runs eastwards from London Bridge to the Custom House and the Tower. Chaucer, the 'father of English poetry', is said to have lived here in 1379-85. Close to the bridge, on the right, stands the handsome church of St. Magnus the Mar- tyr, with a cupola and low spire, built by Wren in 1676. It con- tains the tomb of Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, author of the first complete printed English version of the Bible (1535). ■ Farther to the E. , on the Thames , is Billingsgate (so called Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. g 114 6. CUSTOMHOUSE. from a gate of old London, named, as tradition says, after Belin, a king of the Britons), the ohief fish-market of London, the bad lan- guage used at which has become proverbial. In the reign of Eliza- beth this was a market for all kinds of provisions, but since the reign of William III. it has been used for fish only. Fish has been landed and sold here from time immemorial, though now a considerable part of the fish-supply of London comes by railway. In the reign of Edward I. the prices of fish were as follows: soles, per doz., 3d. ; oysters, per gallon, 2d. ; four whitings Id. ; four best salmon 5s. ; eels, per quarter of a hundred, 2d. ; and so on. The best fish is bought at the beginning of the market by the regular fishmongers. After them come the costermongers, who are said to sell a third of the fish consumed in London. Billingsgate wharf is the oldest on the Thames. The present market, with a figure of Britannia on the apex of the pediment, was designed by Sir Horace Jones, and opened in July, 1877. The market begins daily at 5 a.m., and is one of the sights of London (see p. 25). Adjacent to the fish-market is the Custom House, built by Laing in 1814-17, with an imposing facade towards the Thames, 490 ft. in length, i)y SirR. Smirke. The customs-dues levied at the port of London amount to above 10,000,000?. a year, exceeding those of all the other British sea-ports put together. The London Custom House employs more than 2000 officials; in the Long Room (190 ft. in length by 66 in breadth) no fewer than 80 clerks are at work. Confiscated articles are stored in a warehouse reserved for this purpose, and are disposed of at quarterly sales by auction, which take place in Mark Lane, and yield 5000?. per annum. Attached to the Custom House is a Museum containing curious contrivances for smuggling , etc. Between the Custom House and the Thames is a broad quay, which affords a fine view of the river and shipping. The Coal Exchange, opposite the W. wing of the Custom House, erected in 1849 from plans by Running, is in the Italian style, and has a tower 106 ft. in height. Adjoining it on the E. is a hypo- caust, or stove of masonry belonging to a Roman bath , discovered when the foundations were being dug (shown on application to one of the attendants). The circular hall , with glass dome and triple gallery, is adorned with frescoes by F. Sang, representing the formation of coal and process of mining. The flooring is in- laid with 40,000 pieces of wood, arranged in the form of a mariner's compass. The sword in the municipal coat-of-arms is said to be formed of the wood of a mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Great in 1698, when he was learning the art of ship-building at Deptford. — The amount of coal annually consumed in London alone at present averages upwards of 6,000,000 tons (comp. p. 70). Lower Thames Street debouches at its E. end upon Tower Hill (p. 127). — The Tower, see p. 120. 115 7. Thames Embankment. Blackfriars Bridge. Queen Victoria Street. Cannon Street. Cleopatra's Needle. Times' Publishing Office. Bible Society. Heralds^ College. London Stone. Southwark Bridge. The *Victoria Embankment, wliicli leads from Westminster Bridge (PL R, 29; IV) towards the E. along the N. hank of the Thames as far as Blackfriars Bridge (PL R, 35 ; //), offers a pleasant approach to the City and the Tower to those who have already ex- plored the Strand and Fleet Street. The embankment was con- structed in 1864-70, under the supervision of Sir Joseph W. Ba- zalgette , chief engineer of the late Metropolitan Board of Works (p. 70), at a cost of nearly 2,000,000L It is about 2300 yds. in length , and consists of a macadamised carriage-way 64 ft. wide, with a foot pavement 16 ft. broad on the land-side, and one 20 ft. broad on the river-side. The whole of this area was once covered by the tide twice a day. It is protected on the side next the Thames by a granite wall, 8 ft. thick, for which a foundation was made by sinking iron cylinders into the river-bed as deeply as possible and filling them with concrete. Under the Embankment run three different tunnels. On the inland side is one traversed by the Metro- politan District Railway, while on the Thames side there are two, one above the other, the lower containing one of the principal in- tercepting sewers (p. 70), and the upper one holding water and gas pipes and telegraph wires. Rows of trees have been planted along the sides of the Embankment, which in a few years will afford a shady promenade. At intervals are large openings, with stairs lead- ing to the floating steamboat piers (p. 38), which are constructed of iron, and rise and fall with the tide. Part of the land reclaimed rom the river has been converted into tastefulf gardens. The principal approaches to the Victoria Embankment are from Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster Bridge (p. 199), from Charing Cross (p. 151), and from Arundel, Norfolk, Surrey, and Yilliers Streets, all leading off the Strand. Beginning at Westminster Bridge (p. 199) we see St. Stephens Club to the left, and a little farther on pass New Scotland Yard (p. 191) and Montague House (p. 191 ). Immediately above Charing Cross Bridge rises a lofty block of buildings containing the National Liberal Club (p. 74). The public gardens in front of these are embellished with bronze statues of General Outram , Sir. Bartle FrerCj and William Tyndale, the translator of the New Testament. Below the bridge is another public garden, with statues of Robert Raikes, the founder of Sunday schools, and Robert Burns, and with a memorial fountain bearing a bronze medallion of Henry Fawcett, M. P. The ancient level of the river is indicated by the beautiful old '* Watergate of York House (p. 145), a palace begun by Inigo 116 7. CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE. Jones tor the first Duke of Buckiugliam (in the N.W, corner of this garden). Above is the Adelphi Terrace (p. 148). On the right of the Embankment, by the Adelphi Steps, rises Cleopatra's Needle (PI. R, 30; II), an Egyptian obelisk erected here in 1878. This famous obelisk was presented t(j the English Government by Mo- hammed Ali, and brought to this country by the private munificence of Dr. Erasmus Wilson, who gave 10,000i. for this purpose. Properly speaking Cleopatra's Needle is the name of the companion obelisk now in New York, which stood erect at Alexandria till its removal, while the one now in London lay prostrate for many years. Both monoliths were originally brought from Heliopolis, which, as we are informed by the Flaminian Obelisk at Rome, was full of obelisks. The inscription on the London obelisk refers to Heliopolis as the 'house of the Phoenix". The obelisk, which is of reddish granite, measures 68V2 ft. in height, and is 8 ft. wide at the base. Its weight is 180 tons. The Obelisk of Luxor at Paris is 76 ft. in height, and weighs 240 tons. The pedestal of grey granite is IS^/s ft. high, including the steps. The inscriptions on it are as follows. E. Face. 'This obelisk, quarried at Syene, was erected at On (Heliopolis) by the Pharaoh Thothmes III., about 1500 B.C. Lateral inscriptions were added nearly tv?o centuries later by Rameses the Great. Pi,emoved during the Greek dynasty to Alexandria, the royal city of Cleopatra, it was there erected in the 8th year of Augustus CiBsar, B.C. 23\ — W. Face. 'This obelisk, prostrate for centuries on the sands of Alexandria, was presented to the British nation A. D. 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt: a worthy memorial of our distin- guished countrymen, Nelson and Abercromby". — N. Face. 'Through the patriotic zeal of Erasmus Wilson, F. R. S., this obelisk was brought from Alexandria encased in an iron cylinder. It was abandoned during a storm in the Bay of Biscay, recovered, and erected on this spot by John Dixon C.E., in the 42nd year of the reign of Queen Victoria , 187S\ — River Face, added at the suggestion of the Queen. 'William Asken, James Gardiner, Joseph Benbow, Michael Burns, William Donald, William Patan, per- ished in a bold attempt to succour the crew of the obelisk ship 'Cleo- patra"' during the storm, October 14th, 1877'. Two large bronze Sphinxes^ designed by Mr. G. Vulliamy, have been placed at the base of the Needle. Above Waterloo Bridge, at the back of the Savoy (p. 148), are the Savoy Hotel, and the Medical Examination Hall. The latter, a building of red brick and Portland stone in the Italian style, erected in 1886, contains a statue of the Queen by Williamson, un- veiled in 1889. Belovp the bridge are the river-facade and terrace of Somerset House (p. 146). Farther on, near the Temple Station, is a statue of Isambard Brunei; and in the adjoining gardens are statues of W. E. Forster, erected in 1890, and of John Stuart Mill, erected in 1878. Behind Forster's statue is the tasteful Office of the London School Board, the weekly meetings of which are held here on Thursday at 3 p.m. (public admitted to the gallery; p. 70). Then follows the Temple (p. 141), with its modern Gothic Library and its Gardens. Farther to the E. is the new Gothic building of Sion College and Library (see p. 16), opened in 1886. At the E. end of the Embankment, separated from Blackfriars Bridge by the Royal Hotel (p. 7), is the handsome new City of London School, completed in 1883. To the N., in Tudor Street, is the Guildhall School of Music, a building in the Italian style, erected by the Corporation of London in 1886 at a cost of 12,0001. 7. BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. 117 Tlie Albert Em&anfemmf (PI. G, 29, R,29 ; IV), completedin 1869, extending along the right bank of the Thames from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, a distance of about */^ of a mile, has a roadway 60ft. in breadth, and cost above 1,000, OOOi. Adja- cent to it rises the new Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 310). — The Chelsea Embankment , on the left bank, between the Albert Sus- pension Bridge and Chelsea Hospital (p. 304), was opened in 1873. Blackfriars Bridge (PL R, 34, 35 ; //), an iron structure, built by Cubitt, and opened in 1869, occupies the site of a stone bridge dating from 1769, the piers of which had given way. The bridge, which consists of five arches (the central having a span of 185 ft.) supported by granite piers, is 1272ft. in length, including the abutments, and 80 ft. broad. The cost of construction amounted to 320,000/. The dome of St. Paul's is seen to the greatest advantage from this bridge, which also commands an excellent view otherwise. Just below Blackfriars Bridge the Thames is crossed by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge. On the right bank of the river is the spacious Blackfriars Bridge Station. The bridge derives its name from an ancient Monastery of the Black Friars, situated on the bank of the river, and dating from 1276, where several parliaments once met, and where Cardinals Wolsey and Cam- peggio pronounced sentence of divorce against the unfortunate Queen Catharine of Aragon in 1529 ('King Henry VIII.' ii. 4). Shakspeare once lived at Blackfriars, and in 1599 acted at a theatre which formerly occupied part of the site of the monastery, and of which the name Playhouse Yard is still a reminiscence. In 1607 Ben .Tonson v?as also a resident here. In New Bridge Street, which leads straight to the N. from Black- friars Bridge, immediately to the right, is the Blackfriars Station of the Metropolitan District Railway (p. 37) ; and farther on, beyond Queen Victoria Street (see below), is the large Ludgate Hill Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34), opposite which, on the left, the prison of Bridewell (so called from the old 'miraculous' Well of St. Bride or St. Bridget) stood down to 1864. The site of the prison was once occupied by Bridewell Palace , in which Shakspeare lays the 3rd Act of his 'Henry VIII.' New Bridge Street ends at Ludgate Circus, at the E. end of Fleet Street (p. 137), the prolongation to the N. being called Farringdon Street (see p. 94). To the E., opposite Fleet Street, diverges Lud- gate Hill, leading to St. Paul's Cathedral, and passing under the viaduct of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34). Queen Victoria Street, a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads straight from Blackfriars Bridge, towards the E., to the Mansion House and the Bank. To the right, at its W. end, is the large St. Paul's Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. In Water Lane, to the left, stands Apothecaries' Hall, built in 1670, and containing portraits of James I., Charles I., and others. The company, most of whose members really are what the name im- 118 7. OFFICE OF THE TIMES. plies, grants licenses to dispense medicines and to give medical advice ; and pure drugs are prepared in tlie chemical laboratories at the back of the Hall. On the left side of Queen Victoria Street, farther on, is the Office of the Times (PL R, 35; /i), a handsome building of red brick. The tympanum bears an allegorical device with allusions to times past and future. Behind the Publishing Office, in Printing House Square, is the interesting Printing Office. Tickets of admission are issued on written application to the Manager, enclosing a note of introduction or reference. Visitors should be careful to attend at the hour named in the order, when the second edition of the paper is being printed. No fewer than 20,000 copies can be struck off in an hour by the wonderful mechanism of the Walter press, and perhaps 50,000 are issued daily. The continuous rolls or webs of paper, with which the machine feeds itself, are each 4 miles in length, and of these 28 to 30 are used in one day. The finished and folded copies of the Times are thrown out at the other end of the machine. The type- setting machines are also of great interest. The official who con- ducts visitors round the works explains all the details (no gra- tuity). The Times celebrated its centenary in 1884. Printing House Square stands on a corner of old London which for many ages was occupied by frowning Norman fortresses. Part of the castle of Montfltchet, a follower of the Conqueror, is said to have stood here ; and the ground between the S. side of Queen Victoria Street , or Earl Street , and the Thames was the site of Baynard's Castle (mentioned in 'Richard III'.) with its extensive precincts, which replaced an earlier Roman fortress, and probably a British work of defence. Baynard's Castle was presented by Queen Elizabeth to the Earls of Pembroke, and continued to be their resi- dence till its destruction in the Great Firet. Farther on in Queen Victoria Street is the church of St. Ann Blackfriars, adjacent to which, on the E., rises the large building occupied by the British and Foreign Bible Society, erected in 1868. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by this im- portant society now amounts to about four millions a year, printed in 320 different languages and dialects. The total number of copies issued since its foundation in 1804, is nearly 140,000,000. The annual income of the society from subscriptions and the sale of Bibles is over 230,000f. Visitors (daily, except Sat. and Mon.) are shown the library containing an extensive and probably unique collection of Bibles in different languages. The board-room con- tains a portrait of Lord Shaftesbury, by Millais ; and on the stair- case is a large painting by E. M. Ward.- Luther's first study of + This is the ordinary account, but it is disputed by Mr. Loftie, who maintains that the later house known as Baynard's Castle did not occupy the site of the original fortress of that name. See his 'London' (in the 'Historic Towns Series'; 1887). 7. HERALDS' COLLEGE. 119 the Bible. — Farther E., on the same side of the street, arc the large buildings of the Savings Bank Department of the Post Office. To the N., beyond Knlghtrider Street, lies Doctors^ Commons, where marriage licences are still issued at No. 5 Dean's Court. The Doctors'' Commons Will Office was removed in 1874 from St, BenneVs Hill to Somerset House, in the Strand (see p. 146). To the left, farther on in Queen Victoria Street, is Heralds' Col- lege, or the College of Arms (rebuilt in 1683), formerly the town house of the Earls of Derby. The library contains a number of inter- esting objects, including a sword, dagger, and ring belonging to JamesIV. of Scotland, who fell at Flodden in 1513 ; the Warwick roll, a series of portraits of the Earls of Warwick from the Conquest to the time of Richard III. (executed by jRoms at the end of the 15th cent.) ; genealogy of the Saxon kings, from Adam, more curious than trust- worthy, illustrated with drawings of the time of Henry VIII. ; por- trait of the celebrated Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, from his tomb in old St. Paul's. The college also contains a valuable treasury of genealogical records. The office of Earl-Marshal, president of Heralds'" College, is hereditary in the person of the Duke of Norfolk. The college consists of three klngs-at-arms, Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy — six heralds, Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, York, Windsor, and Chester — and four pursuivants. Rouge Croix , Blue Mantle , Portcullis , and Rouge Dragon. The main object of the corporation is to make out and preserve the pedigrees and armorial bearings of noble and great families. It grants arms to fami- lies recently risen to position and distinction , and determines doubtful questions respecting the derivation and value of arms. Fees for a new coat-of-arms lOZ. 10s. or more; for searching the records il. A little farther on. Queen Victoria Street intersects Cannon Stbbet, which is the most direct route between St. Paul's Church- yard and London Bridge, and Queen Street (p. 101) , leading from Cheapside to Southwark Bridge (p. 120). Cannon Street, which is 2/3 M. long, was constructed at a cost of 589,470^., and opened in 1854. This street contains the Cannon Street (p. 37) and Mansion House (p. 37) stations of the Metropolitan District Railway, and also the extensive Cannon Street Station, the City Terminus of the South Eastern Railway (p. 33 ; hotel, see p. 6). Opposite the last stands the church of St. Swithin, popularly regarded as the saint of the weather, into the wall of which is built the London Stone, an old Roman milestone, supposed to have been the milliarium of the Roman forum in London, from which the distances along the various British high-roads were reckoned. Against this stone, which is now protected by an iron grating. Jack Cade once struck his staff, exclaiming 'Now is Mortimer lord of the city'. In St. Swithin's Lane stands the large range of premises known as 'iVeio Court', occupied by Messrs. Rothschild. — Close by is Salters' Hall, and near it was Salters' Hall Chapel , begun by the ejected minister Richard Mayo in 1667, and long celebrated for its preachers and theological disputations. — Down to 1853 the Steel Yard, at one 120 7. SOUTHW ARK BRIDGE. time a factory or store-honse of the Hanseatic League, estaWislied in 1250, stood on the site now occupied by the Cannon Street Ter- minus. — Adjacent to the station, on the W., is Dowgate Hill, with ihQ Hall of the Skinners, who were incorporated in 1327. The court (with its wooden porch) and interior were built soon after the Fire ; the staircase and the wainscoted 'Cedar Room' are interesting. Cannon Street ends at the Monument, beyond which it is con- tinued by Eastcheop and Great Tower Street to Tower Hill (p. 127). Sonthwark Bridge (PL R, 38 ; 7//), erected by John Rennie in 1815-19, at a cost of 800,000i. , is 700 ft. long, and consists of three iron arches , borne by stone piers. The span of the central arch is 240 ft., that of the side ones 210 ft. The traffic is compar- atively small on account of the inconvenience of the approaches, but has of late greatly increased. In Southwark, on the S. bank, lies Barclay and Perkinses Brewery (p. 308). The river farther down is crossed by the imposing five-arched railway bridge of the South Eastern Railway (terminus at Cannon Street Station, p. 119). 8. The Tower. Trinity House. Tower Subway. Royal Mint. Tower Bridge. The Tower (PL R, 46; 1/7), the ancient fortress and gloomy state-prison of London, and historically the most interesting spot in England, is an irregular mass of buildings erected at various per- iods, surrounded by a battlemented wall and a deep moat, which was drained in 1843. It stands on the bank of the Thames, to the E. of the City, and outside the bounds of the ancient city-walls. The present external appearance of the Tower is very unlike what it originally was , perhaps no fortress of the same age having undergone greater transformations. It is possible , though very doubtful, that a fortification of some kind stood here in Roman times , but the Tower of London properly originated with William the Conqueror (see p. 64). Though at first a royal palace and stronghold, the Tower is best known in history as a prison. It is now a government arsenal, and is still kept in repair as a fortress. The ground-plan is in the form of an irregular pentagon, which covers an area of 18 acres, and is enclosed by a double line of cir- cumvallation (the outer and inner ballium or ward'), strengthened with towers. The square "White Tower rises conspicuously in the centre. A broad quay lies between the moat and the Thames. The Tower is conveniently reached by the Underground Railway to Mark Lane Station (PI. R, 42; III). The Tower (adm. , see p. 78) is provided with four entrances, viz. the Iron Gate, the Water Gate, and the Traitors' Gate, all on the side next the Thames; and on the W., the principal entrance, or Lions' Gate, so called from the royal menagerie formerly kept 8. THE TOWER. 12t here. (The lions -were removed to tlie Zoological Gardens in Re- gent's Park in 1834.) To the right is the Ticket Office, where tickets are procured for the Armoury (6d.) and the Crown Jewels (6c?.)- Free days should he avoided on account of the crowd. Really interested visitors may sometimes obtain an order from the Constable of the Tower admitting them to parts not shown to the general public. The quaintly-attired Warders or Beef-eaters, offi- cially designated Yeomen of the Guard, who are stationed at diffe- rent parts of the building, are all old soldiers of meritorious serv- ice. The term Beef-eater is commonly explained as a corruption of Buffetiers , or attendants at the royal Buffet, but is more pro- bably a nickname bestowed upon the ancient Yeomen of the Guard from the fact that rations of beef were regularly served out to them when on duty. The names of the different towers, gates, etc., are now indicated by placards, and the most interesting objects in the armouries also bear inscriptions. The Guides to the Tower [id. and 6t/.; both by W. J. Loftie) are almost unnecessary, except to those who take a special interest in old armour. To the left of the entrance, opposite the Ticket Office, is a Turkish cannon, presented by Sultan Abdul Medjed Khan in 1857. A stone bridge , flanked by two towers ( Middle Tower and By- ward Tower), leads across the moat (which can still be flooded by the garrison) into the Outer Bail or anterior court. On the left is the Bell Tower (PI. 4), adjacent to which is a narrow passage, leading round the fortifications within the outer wall. Farther on, to the right, is the Traitors' Gate (PI. 6), a double gateway on the Thames, by which state-prisoners were formerly admitted to the Tow- er; above it is St. Thomas's Tower (PI. 5). A gateway opposite leads under the Bloody Tower (p. 125) to the Inner Bail. In the centre of this court, upon slightly rising ground, stands the square * White Tower, ox Keep, the most ancient part of the fortress, erected by William the Conqueror in 1078, on a site previously occupied by two bastions built by King Alfred in 885 (perhaps on a Roman foundation; comp. p. 120). It measures 116ft. from N. to S. and 96 ft. from E. to W. , and is 92ft. high. The walls are 13-15 ft. thicks, and are surmounted with turrets at the angles. The armoury and military stores to the S. were removed in 1882-3 , so as to leave an unimpeded view of this ancient keep. Among the many important scenes enacted in this tower may be mentioned the abdication of Richard II. in favour of Henry of Bolingbroke in 1399 ; and it was here that Prince James of Scotland was imprisoned in 1405. We first ascend a staircase passing through the wall of the White Tower (15 ft. thick). It was under this staircase that the bones of the two young princes murdered by their uncle Richard III. (see p. 125) were found. On the first floor are two apartments, said to have been those in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined and wrote his His- tory of the World (1605-17 ; closed). The *C/iaj3ei of St. John, on the 122 8. THE TOWER. M t H « 3 **01 1V3H0 iiiii i. / / A^\\%isj^\jr;^"vV^^kk'vvvj iffifiiiiilli f h^^'^- 8. THE TOWER. 123 second floor, with its massive pillars and cubical capitals, its -wide triforium, its apse borne by stilted round arches (somewhat re- sembling those of St. Bartholomew's, p. 96), and its barrel-vaulted ceiling, is one of the finest and best-preserved specimens of Nor- man architecture in England. On the same floor are the Banquet- ing' Hall, and another room, both containing part of the collection of arms and armour (see below). On the upper floor is the Council Chamber, in which the abdication of Richard II. took place. The *CoLLBCTioN OF Old Armour, formerly in the so-called Horse Armoury, and now in the two upper floors of the White Tower, though not equal to the best Continental collections of the kind, is yet of great value and interest. The main portion of the collection is in the Council Chamber, including a series of equestrian figures in full equipment, as well as numerous figures on foot, aifording a faithful picture, in approximately chronological order, of English war-array from the time of Edward I. (1272) down to that of James II. (1688). In the Norman period armour consisted either of leather, cut into small pieces like the scales of a fish , or of flat rings of steel sewn on to leather. Chain mail was introduced from the East in the time of Henry III. (1216-1272). Plates for the arms and legs were introduced in the reign of Edward II. (1307-1327), and com- plete suits of plate armour came into use under Henry V. (1413-22). The glass-oases contain various smaller objects of interest. Among the chief objects in the Council Chamber and the smaller room to the E. of it are the following: — Equestrian figure of Queen Elizabeth. Suit of armour (shirt ofmailj, dating from the time of Edward I. (1272-1307). Suit of the time of Henry VI. (1422-61). Tournament suit of the time of Edward IV. (1461-83). Knight's suit of the time of Richard III. (1483-85), worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton Tournament in 1839. Suit of Burgundian armour, Henry VII. (1485-1509) j adjacent a second suit of the same period. Suit of richly damascened armour, worn by Henry VIII. (1509-47). Suit worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk (1520). Suit of Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln (1535). Brown suit, with the arms of Burgundy and Granada, Edward VI. (1547-53). Suit of heavy armour of the time of Queen Mary, said to have belonged to Francis Hastings , Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1580), the favourite of Queen Elizabeth ; the armour bears his initials and crest. — Magnificent suit, of German workmanship, said to have been presented by the Emperor Maximilian to Henry VIII. on his marriage with Catharine of Aragon. Among the numerous ornaments inlaid in gold, the rose and pomegranate, the badges of Henry and Catharine, are of frequent recurrence ; the other cognisances of Henry, the portcullis, fleur-de-lys, and dragon, and the initials of the royal pair connected by a true-lover's knot, also appear. On the armour of the horse are engraved scenes of martyrdom. Adjacent is a helmet with ram's horns and a mask, also presented by Maximiliaii to Henry VIII. — Suit of Sir Henry Lee , Master of the Armouries to Queen Elizabeth (1570). Suit of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, worn by the King's champion at the coronation of George I. Tournament suit, James 1. (1605). Plain suit of armour of the same period. Suit of armour worn by Charles I. Suit, richly inlaid with gold, belonging to Henry, Prince of Wales (1612), eldest son of James I. Beside it, Charles I., as Prince of Wales, on foot, with a page bearing the chanfron or head-piece of the horse-armour. Full suit of plate armour, dating from the first half of the 17th century. Fine suit of Italian armour, said to have belonged to Count Oddi of 124 8. THE TOWER. Padua (1650 ; unmounted figure). Suit of bright armour, studded with brass. Pikemen of the 17th century. Suit of George Monk, Duke of Albemarle (1669). Suit of knight of the time of Charles I. Mounted figure with slight suit of armour that belonged to James II. (1685), after whose time armour was rarely worn. Interspersed among the equestrian figures are numerous weapons of the periods illustrated by the suits of armour; weapons used by the rebels at Sedgemoor; assegais from CafFraria; two drums taken at Blenheim; execution-axe of the Kingof Oude; arbalest or crossbow ; ancient matchlocks and fowling-pieces, some of them breech-loaders; Chinese arms; chain-mail of the Norman period; arms and armour from China, Persia, Japan, and Africa ; the block on which Lord Lovat, the last person beheaded in Eng- land, suffered the penalty of high treason on Tower Hill in 1747 ; a head- ing-axe, said to be that by which the Earl of Essex was decapitated. The glass-cases contain Etruscan, Roman, British, Anglo-Saxon, and otiier arms and armour; a complete suit of ancient Greek armour, dis- covered in a tomb at Cumse; a spear-head found on the plain of Marathon; a very interesting collection of old weapons, ancient and Norman helmets, early fire-arms, etc.; two English long-bows of yew, reco"ered in 184(3 from the wreck of the 'Mary Rose', after having been submerged for almost 300 years; Indian battle-axes, guns, and accoutrements; scimitar with jade hilt; sword with hilt of lapis lazuli; a bit of leather scale-armour; re- volvers of the 16-17th cent., with beautifully inlaid stocks; Asiatic suits of armour; sword, helmet, and saddle of Tippo Sahib, Sultan of Mysore, captured at Seringapatam in 1799; helmet brought from Otaheite bv Capt. Cook in 1774. The contents of the two rooms on the second floor include the uniform worn by the Duke of Wellington as Constable of the Tower; the cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec in 1759; models of the Tower; arms in use by various foreign nations about 1840; two chased brass guns made for the Duke of Gloucester, son of Queen Anne, \a ho died in 1700 at the age of eleven; a copy of the shield at Windsor ascribed to Cellini; part of the pump of the 'Mary Rose', sunk in 1545; guns from the 'Mary Rose"; a collection of instruments of torture; Indian arms and armour. The walls and ceilings are adorned with trophies of ;irms, skilfully arranged in the form of stars, flowers, coats-of-arms, and the like. At the foot of the staircase by which we leave the White Tower are some fragments of the old State Barge of the Master-General of the Ord- nance (broken up in 1859), with the arms of the Duke of Marlborough and other decorations in carved and gilded oak. Outside the White Tower is an interesting collection of old cannon, someof very heavy calibre, chiefly ofthe time of Henry VIII., but one going back to the reign of Henry VI. (1422-61). The large modern buildings to the N. of the White Tower are the Wellington or Waterloo Barracks, erected in 1845 on the site of the Grand Storehouse and Small Armoury, which had been de- stroyed by fire in 1841. The armoury at the time of the confla- gration contained 150,000 stand of arms. The Ckown Jewels, or Regalia, formerly kept in the building erected in 1842 at the N.E. corner of the fortress, are now in the Record or Wakefield Tower (see p. 125). During the confusion that prevailed after the execution of Charles I. the royal ornaments and part of the Kegalia, including the ancient crown of King Edward, were sold. The crowns and jewels made to replace these after the Restoration retain the ancient names. The Regalia now consist of the following articles, which are preserved in a glass-case, protected by a strong iron cage : — 8. THE TOWER. 125 St. Edward's Crown, executed for the coronation of Charles II., and used at all subsequent coronations. This was the crown stolen in 1671 by Col. Blood and his accomplices, who overpowered and gagged the keeper. The bold robbers, however, did not succeed in escaping with their booty. Queen Victorians Crown , made in 1838 , a masterpiece of the modern goldsmith's art. It is adorned with no fewer than 2783 dia- monds -, the uncut ruby ('spiner) in front, said to have been given to the Black Prince in 1367 by Don Pedro of Castile, was worn by Henry V. on his helmet at the battle of Agincourt. It also contains a large sapphire. The Prince of Wales''s Crown, of pure gold, without precious stones. The Queen Consorfs Croicn., of gold, set with jewels. The Queen'^s Crown, a golden circlet, embellished with diamonds and pearls, made for Queen Maria d'Este, wife of James II. St. Edward's Staff, made of gold, 41/2 ft. long and about 90 lbs. in weight. The orb at the top is said to contain a piece of the true cross. The Royal Sceptre with the Cross, 2ft. 9in. long, richly adorned with precious stones. The Sceptre of the Dove, or Rod of Equity. Above the orb is a dove with outspread wings. Queen Victo- rians Sceptre, with richly gemmed cross. The Ivory Sceptre of Queen Maria d'Este, surmounted by a dove of white onyx. The Sceptre of Queen Mary, wife of William III. The Orhs of the King and Queen. Model of the Koh-i-Noor (Mountain of Light), one of the largest diamonds known, weighing 162 carats. The original, now at Windsor Castle, was formerly in the possession of Runjeet Singh, Rajah of Lahore, and came into the hands of the English in 1849, on their conquest of the Punjab. The Curtana, or pointless Sword of Mercy. The Swords of Justice. The Coro- nation Bracelets. The Royal Spurs. The Coronation Oil Vessel or Ampulla, in the form of an eagle. The Spoon belonging to the ampulla, thought to be the only relic of the ancient regalia. The Salt Cellar of State, in the form of a model of the White Tower. The silver Baptismal Font for the roj'al children. A silver Wine Fountain given by the Corporation of PljTnouth to Charles II. Gold Basin used in the distribution of the Queen's alms on Maundy Thursday. The cases at the side contain the insignia of the Orders of the Bath, Garter, Thistle, St. Michael and St. George, and Star of India; also the Victoria Cross. The total value of the Regalia is estimated at 3,000,000?. The twelve Towers of the Inner Ward, at one time all used as prisons, were afterwards employed in part for the custody of the state archives. The names of several of them are indissolubly as- sociated with many dark and painful memories. In the Bloody Tower (PI. 7) the sons of Edward IV. are said to have been murdered, by order of Richard III. (comp. pp. 121, 217); in the Bell Tower (PI. 4) the Princess Elizabeth was confined by her sister Queen Mary ; Lady Jane Grey is said to have been imprisoned in Brick Tower (PI. 12); Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of Lady Jane Grey, was confined , witli his father and brothers , in Beauchamp Tower ij\. 8); in the Bowyer Tower (PI. 11), the Duke of Cla- rence, brother of Edward IV., is popularly supposed to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey; and Henry VI. was commonly be- lieved to have been murdered in Record (Wakefield) Tower (PL 16), The Salt Tower (PI. 15) contains a curious drawing of the zodiac, by Hugh Draper of Bristol , who was confined here in 1561 on a charge of sorcery. — The Beauchamp Tower, built in 1199-1216, consists of two stories , which are reached by a narrow winding staircase. The walls of the room on the first floor are covered with inscriptions by former prisoners , including those of the Dudley 126 8. THE TOWER. family. That of John Dudley, Earl of "Warwick , eldest brother of Lord Guildford Dudley, is on the right side of the fire-place , and is a well executed family coat-of-arms with the following lines : — 'Yow that these beasts do wel behold and se, May deme with ease wherefore here made they be Withe borders wherein 4 brothers' names who list to serche the grovnd". Near the recess in the N.W. corner is the word Ianb (repeated in the window), supposed to represent the signature of Lady Jane Grey as queen , hut not inscribed by herself. Above the fire-place is a Latin inscription left by Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel, eldest son of the Duke of Norfolk who was beheaded in 1573 for aspiring to the hand of Mary , Queen of Scots. The earliest inscription is that of Thomas Talbot, 1462. The Inscriptions in the upper cham- ber are less interesting. At the N.W. corner of the fortress rises the chapel of St. Peter AD ViNCULA (PI. 17; interior not shown), erected by Edward I. on the site of a still older church, re-erected by Edward III., altered by Henry VIII. , and restored in 1877. Adjoining it is a small burial-ground. 'In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue , with public veneration and with imperishable renown ; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with every- thing that is most endearing in social and domestic charities ; but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the ingrat- itude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame'. — Macaulay. The following celebrated persons are buried in this chapel : Sir Thomas More, beheaded 1535 ; Queen Anne Boleyn, beheaded 1536; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded 1540 ; Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury, beheaded 1541 ; Queen Catharine How- ard, beheaded 1542; Lord Admiral Seymour of Sudeley, beheaded 1549; Lord Somerset, the Protector, beheaded 1552; John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland , beheaded 1553 ; Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Guildford Dudley, beheaded 1554; Robert Devereux , Earl of Essex, beheaded 1601; Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower in 1613 ; Sir John Eliot, died as a prisoner in the Tower 1632; James Fitzroy, Duke of Mon- mouth, beheaded 1685 ; Simon, Lord Eraser of Lovat, beheaded 1747. The executions took place in the Tower itself only in the cases of Anne Boleyn, Catharine Howard, the Countess of Salisbury, Lady .lane Grey, and Devereux, Earl of Essex; in all the other in- stances the prisoners were beheaded at the public place of execution oil Tower Hill (see p. 127). The list of those who were confined for a longer or shorter period ill the Tower comprises a great number of other celebrated persons : JohuBaliol, King of Scotland, 1296; William Wallace, the Scottish patriot, 1305 ; David Bruce, King of Scotland, 1347 ; King John of 8. TRINITY HOUSE. 127 France (taken prisoner at Poitiers, 1357) ; Duke of Orleans, father of Louis XII. of France, 1415 ; Lord Cobham , the most distin- guished of the Lollards (burned as a heretic at St. Giles in the Fields, 1416); King Henry VI. (who is said to have been murdered in the Wakefield Tower by the Duke of Gloucester, 1471) ; Anne Askew (tortured in the Tower, and burned in Smithfleld as a heretic, 1546); Archbishop Cranmer , 1553; Sir Thomas Wyatt (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1554) ; Earl of Southampton , Shak- speare's patron, 1562; Sir Walter Raleigh (seep. 123; beheaded at Westminster in 1618); Earl of Strafford (beheaded 1641); Archbishop Laud (beheaded 1643) ; Viscount Stafford (beheaded 1680) ; Lord William Russell (beheaded 1683) ; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, 1688; Duke of Marlborough, 1692, etc. On Tower Hill, N.W. of the Tower, formerly stood the scaffold for the execution of traitors (see p. 126). William Penn (comp. p. 128), was born, and Otway, the poet, died on Tower Hill, and here too Sir Walter Raleigh's wife lodged while her unfortunate husband languished in the Tower. On the N. side rises Trinity House, a plain building, erected in 1793 from designs by Wyatt, the facade of which is embellished with the arms of the corporation, medallion portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, and several emblems of navigation. This building is the property of 'The Master, Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Bro- therhood , of the most glorious and undividable Trinity', a com- pany founded by Sir Thomas Spert in 1515, and incorporated by Henry VIII. in 1529. The society consists of a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unrestricted number of Younger Brethren , and was founded with a view to the promotion and en- couragement of English navigation. Its rights and duties, which have been defined by various acts of parliament, comprise the regu- lation and management of lighthouses and buoys round the British coast, and the appointment and licensing of a body of efficient pilots. Two elder brethren of Trinity House assist the Admiralty in deciding all cases relating to collisions at sea. Its surplus funds are devoted to charitable objects connected with sailors. The in- terior of Trinity House contains busts of Admirals St. Vincent, Howe, Duncan, and Nelson ; and portraits of James 1. and his con- sort Anne of Denmark, James II., and Sir Francis Drake. There is also a large picture of several Eider Brethren, by Gainsborough, and a small collection of models. The Duke of York, son of the Prince of Wales, is the present Master of Trinity House, while the Prince of Wales himself and Mr. W. E. Gladstone are 'Elder Brethren'. The annual income of Trinity House is said to be above 300,000^. At the end of Great Tower Street, to the W. of the Tower, is the church of All Hallows, Barking, founded by the nuns of Barking Abbey, and containing some fine brasses. Archbishop Laud was 128 8. ROYAL MINT. buried in the graveyard after Ms execution on Tower Hill (1643), but Ms body was afterwards removed to the chapel of St. John's College, Oxford, of which he was an alumnus. The parish register records the baptism of William Penn (Oct. 23rd, 1644). The Czar's Head^ opposite the church, is said to occupy the site of a tavern frequented by Peter the Great (see p. 145). On the S. side of Great Tower Hill is the Tower Subway, a tunnel constructed by Barlow in 1870, passing under the Thames, and leading to Tooley Street (corrupted from St. Olave Street) on the right (Southwark) bank. This gloomy and unpleasant passage consists of an iron tube 400 yds. long and 7 ft. in diameter, originally traversed by a tramway-car, but now used by pedestrians only. A winding staircase of 96 steps descends to it on each side O/^d.). The subway was made in less than a year, at a cost of 20,000i. On the E. side of Tower Hill stands the Royal Mint, erected in 1811, from designs by Johnson and Smirke, on the site of the old Cistercian Abbey of St. Mary of the Graces (see p. 200), and so ex- tensively enlarged in 1881-82 as to be practically a new building. The Mastership of the Mint (an office abolished in 1869) was once held by Sir Isaac Newton (1699-1727) and Sir John F. W. Herschel (^1850-55). Permission to visit the Mint is given for a fixed day by the Deputy-Master of the Mint, on a written application stating the number and addresses of the intending visitors. The various processes of coining are extremely interesting, and the machinery used is of a most ingenious character. In 1882 fourteen improved presses were introduced, each of which can stamp and mill 120 coins per minute. The cases in the waiting-room contain coins and commemorative medals, including specimens of Maundy money, and gold pieces of '21. and bl., never brought into general circulation. Among the other objects of interest is a skeleton cube, each side of which is 333/8 in. in length, showing the size of a mass of stand- ard gold worth l,000,000i. In 1893 the value of the money coined at the Mint was 10,789,523^., including 6,898.260 sovereigns; 4,426,625 half-sovereigns; 497,845 crowns; 1,792,600 half -crowns; 1,666,103 florins; 7,039,074 shillings; 7,350,619 sixpences; 3,076, 269 threepences; 8,161,737 pence; 7,229,344 half-pence; and 3,904,320 farthings; besides Maundy money, value 396^, and colonial money, value 32S,G58i. In 1884-93 there were coined here 39,743,131 sov- ereigns, 27,875,187 half-sovereigns, 20,860,136 half-crowns, 14,556,960 Qorins, 51,127,560 shillings, etc. ; of copper or bronze coins, most of which were made by contract at Bii-mingham , nearly 220,000.(300 were issued. The average "annual value of the coinage issued by the Mint in 1883-92 was 5.746,509^. The average profit of the Mint is about 111,500/. — There are branches of the Mint at Melbourne and Sydney in Australia; and there are mints also at Calcutta and Bombay. Immediately below the Tower the Thames is spanned by the huge *Tower Bridge (PI. R, 46 ; III), begun by the Corporation in 1886 and opened on 30th June 1894. This bridge, designed by Sir Horace Jones and Mr, Wolfe Barry, comprizes a permanent footway, 142ft. above high-water level, reached by means of lifts and stairs in the supporting towers, and a carriage way, 29V2 It. above high- water, the central span of which (200 ft. long) is fitted with twin 9. THE PORT AND DOCKS. 129 bascules or draw-bridges, •which can be raised in IV2 niin. for the passage of large vessels. The bascules and footway are borne by two massive Gothic towers, rising upon huge piers, which are connected with the river-banks by permanent spans (270ft. long), suspended on massive chains hanging between the central towers and smaller castellated towers on shore. The substantial framework of the bridge, including the central towers , which are cased in stone, is of steel. Including the approaches, the bridge is V2 M. long, and has already cost over 1,000,000Z., though the S. approach (to be made by the County Council) is not yet made. 9. The Port and Docks. St. Katherine's Docks. London Docks. Thames Tunnel. Commercial Docks. Regent's Canal. West and East India Docks. Millwall Docks. Victoria and Albert Docks. One of the most interesting sights of London is the Port, with its immense warehouses, the centre from which the commerce of England radiates all over the globe. The Port of London, in the wider sense, extends from London Bridge to a point 6Y2™iles down the river , but as actually occupied by shipping may be said to terminate at Deptford, 4 miles from London Bridge. Immediately below London Bridge begins the Pool (p. 112), which is held to end at Limehouse Reach. Ships bearing the produce of every nation under the sun here discharge their cargoes, which, previous to their sale, are stored, free of customs, in large bonded warehouses mostly in the Docks. Below these warehouses , which form small towns of themselves, and extend in long rows along the banks of the Tha- mes, are extensive cellars for wine, oil, etc., while above ground are huge magazines, landing-stages, packing-yards, cranes, and every kind of apparatus necessary for the loading, unloading, and custody of goods. The docks are not municipal or public property, but are owned by various private joint-stock dock-companies. To theE. of the Tower, and separated from it by a single street, called Little Tower Hill, are St. Katherine's Docks (PL R, 46 ; III), openedin 1828, and covering an area of 24 acres, on which 1250house8 with ll,300inhab. formerly stood. The old St. Katherine's Hospital once stood on this site (comp. p. 241). The engineer was Telford, and the architect Hardwick. The docks admit vessels of 700 tons. The warehouses can hold 110,000 tons of goods. St. Katherine's Docks are now under the same management as the London Docks. St. Katherine's Steamboat Wharf, adjoining the Docks, is mainly used as a landing-stage for steamers from the continent. London Docks (PL R, 50), lying to the E. of St. Katherine's Docks, were constructed in 1805 at a cost of 4,000,000^, and cover an area of 120 acres. They have four gates on the Thames, and contain water- room for 300 large vessels, exclusive of lighters. Their Baedkkbk, London. 9tli Edit. 9 130 9. LONDON DOCKS. warehouses can store 220,000 tons of goods, and their cellars 70,000 pipes (8,316,050 gallons) of wine. The Tobacco Dock and Warehouses (the Queens Warehouse) alone cover an area of 5 acres of ground. At times, particularly when adverse winds drive vessels into the Thames, upwards of 3000 men are employed at these docks in one day. Every morning at 6 o'clock, there may be seen waiting at the principal entrance a large and motley crowd of labourers, to which numerous dusky visages and foreign costumes impart a curious and picturesque air. The capital of the London & St. Katherine's Docks Co. amounts to 13,000,000i. The door in the E. angle of the docks, inscribed To theKiln, leads to a furnace in which adulterated tea and tobacco, spurious gold and silver wares, and other confiscated goods, are burned. The long chimney is jest- ingly called the Queen s Tobacco Pipe. Nothing will convey to the stranger a better idea of the vast activity and stupendous wealth of London than a visit to these warehouses, filled to overflowing with interminable stores of tea, coffee, sugar, silk, tobacco, and other foreign and colonial products ] to these enormous vaults, with their apparently inexhaustible quantities of wine; and to these extensive quays and landing- stages, cumbered with huge stacks of hides, heaps of bales, and long rows of casks of every conceivable description. Permission to visit the warehouses and vaults may be obtained from the secretary of the London Dock Company, at 109 Leaden- hall Street, E.C. Those who wish to taste the wines must procure a tasting-order from a wine-merchant. Ladies are not admitted after 1 p.m. Visitors should be on their guard against the in- sidious effects of 'tasting', in the heavy, vinous atmosphere. St. George Street, to the N. of the docks, was formerly the noto- rious Eatcliff Highway. Swedenborg (1688-1772) is buried in a vault beneath the Swedish Church in Prince's Square (PI. R, 51). To the S. of the London Docks, and about 2 M. below London Bridge, lies the quarter of the metropolis called Wapping^ from which the Thames Tunnel leads under the river to Rotherhithe on the right bank. The tunnel was begun in 1824 , on the plans and under the supervision of Sir Isambard Brunei, and completed in 1843, after several accidents occasioned by the water bursting in upon the works. Seven men lost their lives during its con- struction. It consists of two parallel arched passages of masonry, 14 ft. broad, 16 ft. high, and 1200 ft. long, and cost 468,000^ The undertaking paid the Thames Tunnel Company so badly, that their receipts scarcely defrayed the cost of repairs. The tunnel was purchased in 1865 by the East Loudon Railway Company for 200,000i., and is now traversed daily by about 40 trains (terminus at Liverpool Street Station, p. 32). — A Steam-Ferry (id.) crosses the^Thames between Wapping and Rotherhithe. At Rotherhithe (see p. 68), to the E. of the tunnel, are situated 9. WEST INDIA DOCKS. 131 the numerous large basins of the Surrey and Commercial Docks (PL R, 53, etc.), covering together an area of ahout 350 acres, and chiefly used for timber. On the N. bank of the river, to the E, ofWapping, ]ie Sha dwell andi Stepney. At Limehouse, oppo- site the Commercial Docks, is the entrance to the Regent's Canal, which runs N. to Victoria Park, then turns to the W., traverses the N. part of London, and unites with the Paddington Canal, which forms part of a continuous water-route as far as Liverpool. The West India Docks (PI. R, 62, etc.), nearly 300 acres in area, lie between Limehouse andBlackwall, to theN. of the Isle of Dogs^ which is formed here by a sudden bend of the river. They can contain at one time as many as 460 West India merchantmen. Several of the chief lines of steamers load and discharge their car goes in these docks. The three principal basins are called the Import Dock^ the Export Dock, and the South Dock. The smaller East India Docks (PL R, 70, 71) are at Blackwall, a little lower down. Some of the chief lines of sailing-ships use these. The Millwall Docks, 100 acres in extent (35 water), are in the Isle of Dogs, near the West India Docks. On the S. bank, opposite the Isle of Dog., lies Deptford, with the Corporation Market for Foreign Cattle. Still lower down than the East India Docks, between Bow Creek, North Woolwich, and Galleon's Reach, lie the magnificent Victoria and Albert Docks, 2^/4 M. in length, lighted by electricity and provided with every convenience and accommodation for sailing vessels and steamers of the largest size. The steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental, the Anchor, the National, and other important com- panies, put in at these docks. The Hydraulic Lift, for supporting vessels when undergoing repair, is worthy of inspection. The Victoria Dock Co. has been amalgamated with the London and St. Katherine's Docks Co., which has constructed a special railway, extending to Galleon's Reach and bringing the docks into direct connection with the Great Eastern Railway. The East and West In- dia Dock Co. have built large new docks at Tilbury (p. 344). A new Tunnel is being made by the Cnuuty Council beneath the Thames at Blackwall, close to the East India Docks. The length of the tunnel proper will be 1488 yds., of which 404 yds. will be under the river, and the diameter 24 ft., or 51/2 ft. larger than any other construction of the kind. 10. Bethnal Green Museum. National Portrait Gallery. Victoria Park. The Bethnal Green Museum (PL B, 52), a branch of South Ken- sington Museum, opened in 1872, occupies a red brick building in Victoria Park Square, Cambridge Road, Bethnal Green. It was established chiefly for the benefit of the inhabitants of the poorer East End of London. The only permanent contents are collections of specimens of food and of animal and vegetable products, but loan 9* 132 10. BETHNAL GREEN MUSEUM. collections of various kinds are also always on view. Admission, see p. 78 (catalogues on sale). The number of visitors in 1888 was 910,511, and in 1893 it was 591,074, the great superiority in the former year being due to the temporary exhibition here of the Queen's Jubilee Presents. The Museum may be conveniently reached by an Old Ford omnibus from the Bank; by the Metropolitan Railway to Aldgate, and thence by a Well Street tramway-car (a red car; fare 2d.), which passes the Museum; or by train from Liverpool Street Station to Cambridge Heath (about every 10 min. ; through-booking from Metropolitan stations). In returning we may traverse Victoria Park to the (20 Min.) Victoria Park Station of the N. London Railway, whence there are trains every 1/4 hr. to Broad Street, City. The space in front of the Museum is adorned with a handsome majolica *Fountain, by Mmf on [1862). The interior of the Museum, entirely constructed of iron, consists of a large central hall, sur- rounded by a double gallery. To the right and left as we enter are busts of Garibaldi and Cromwell. The extensive and well-arranged Collection of Articles used for Food occupies theN. side of the lower gallery. It comprises speci- mens of various kinds of edibles, models of others, diagrams, draw- ings, and so forth. On the S. side is the collection of Animal Pro- ducts, largely consisting of clothing materials (wool, silk, leather, etc.) at different stages of their manufacture. The area of the central hall is occupied by a Collection of Works of Ornamental Art in gold, sil- ver, bronze, and china, French furniture, etc., lent by Mr. and Mrs. Massey-Mainwaring and others. On screens round the hall is the Dixon Collection of water-colours and oil-paintings, bequeathed to the Museum in 1885. The former include examples of De Wint, Cooper, Birket Foster, David Cox, etc. ; the latter are less inter- esting. Here too are exhibited an alto-relievo of Mrs. Siddons (d. 1831), by Campbell, and a bust of Mrs. Jameson (d. 1860), the writer on art, by Gibson, both belonging to the National Portrait Gallery (see below). The flooring of the central hall consists of a mosaic pavement formed from refuse chippings of marble, executed by female convicts in Woking Prison. TheN. and S. basements are occupied by a collection of sketches by George Cruikshank, the caricaturist, by part of the Dixon Collection, and by various pic- tures, etc., on loan. In the N. basement is a plain refreshment-room. The upper gallery, well lighted from the roof, now contains (until the completion of the new building beside the National Gallery, see p. 152) the **National Portrait Gallery (formerly at South Kensington) , a highly valuable series of orirginal por- traits and busts of celebrated natives of Great Britain and Ire- land. The director of the gallery is Mr. George Scharf, C. J5., who has prepared an excellent catalogue (1888; Is.). The pictures are arranged approximately in historical sequence, beginning at the E. end of the S. Gallery. The outsides of the screens facing the central hall, however, are hung in both galleries with modern por- traits. In the E. gallery are two recumbent figures , electrotype 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. 133 casts of the originals in Gloucester Cathedral : on the right, Ed- ward II. (d. 1327) , a good piece of Gothic work ; on the left, Rohert, Duke of Normandy, surnamed Gurthose, eldest son of William the Conqueror. Here also are various statues and busts. In the W. Gallery is a series of electrotypes of English soYereigns. Several paintings belonging to the National Portrait Gallery are at present deposited in the National Gallery (see p. 153j. PoRTKAiTs OF THE Plantagenbt Pbriod (1154-1485). The portraits, executed at a later period, are of little artistic value. The best is that of Richard III. (d. 1483) , in the act of putting a ring on his finger, probably by a Flemish artist. Facsimile of an an- cient diptych representing Richard II. (1366-1400), at the age of fifteen, kneeling before the Virgin and Child (Arundel Society pub- lication). Portrait of Geoffrey Chaucer (1340-1400). Tracings of the portraits of Edioard III. and his family on the E. wall of St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster (date, 1356), now destroyed. Portraits of the Tudor Period (1485-1603). Henry VII. (d. 1509), a work in the upper German style, painted, according to the Latin inscription^ for Hermann Rinck (restored); Cardinal Wolsey, a crude performance , probably after an Italian original ; several portraits of Henry VIII. ^ nearly all after Holbein; Queen Mary /., at the age of 28, before her accession; * Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury (1489-1556), by Gerbarus Flicius ; *Sir Thomas Gresham (1519-1579), founder of the Royal Exchange, by Sir Anthony More, a pupil of Schoreel ; Peter Martyr Vermilius of Florence (d. 1562), preacher of the Reformation at Oxford, by Hans Asper of Ziirich; Sir Henry Vnton (d. 1596), a curious work with scenes from his life, by an unknown painter; portraits of Raleigh, Burleigh^ Camden, and George Buchanan; several portraits of Queen Elizabeth and Mary, Queen of Scots; also the so-called Frazer-Tytler portrait of the latter, now accepted as Mary of Lorraine, her mother. Portraits of the Stuart Period (1603-1649). Earl of South- ampton (d. 1624), the friend and patron of Shakspeare, byMierevelt; oil-portrait of Shakspeare (the Chandos portrait), with an engraving from the first folio edition of the plays (1623) ; Guy Fawkes and other conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot, engraving with good portraits taken from life; Ben Jonson (d. 1637); Children of Charles /., early copy of a well-known picture by Van Dyck ; *Endymion Porter, confidant of Charles I. (1587-1649), by Dobson ; James /., in the royal robes, by Van Somer ; Lord Bacon (1561-1626), by Van Somer; James VI. of Scotland at the age of eight, by Zucchero ; Elizabeth J Queen of Bohemia (^d. 1662), byMierevelt; Inigo Jones, the architect (1573-1652), by Old Stone, after Van Dyck ; W. Dob- son (1610-1646), a follower of Van Dyck and the first native Eng- lish portrait-painter of any eminence , by himself ; Michael Drayton, the poet (d. 1631); Sir Kenelm Digby (d. 1665), by Van Dyck. 134 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. Portraits of the Common-wealth (1649-1660] and the reign OF Charles II. (1660-85). Among the best portraits of this period are those of Harrington (d. 1677), tlie author, by Honthorst; Tho- mas Hobbes, the philosopher (d. 1679), by J. M. Wright, and *Qu€en Elizabeth of Bohemia (d. 1662), at the age of forty-six, by Honthorst. The portraits of Nell Qwynne^ Mary Davis, the actress, La Belle Hamilton, and other beauties by Sir Peter Lely, are in- ferior in art value to the *Portraits of the Duke of Buckingham (d. 1687) and the Countess of Shrewsbury by the same artist. Por- traits of Cromwell , Milton (a painting by Van der Plaas and an engraving from the life by Faithorne), Cowley, Suckling, Andrew Marvell, Ireton, Monk, and Samuel Butler are also exhibited here. Portraits of the reigns of James II., William III., and Queen Anne (1685-1714). The best portrait in this section is that of *Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's Cathedral (1637-1723), by Sir Godfrey Kneller, a pupil of Rembrandt. Among the other portraits are the Seven Bishops, Waller, the poet, Locke, tte philosopher, the Duke of Marlborough, Duchess of Marlborough, Viscount Torrington (d. 1733), Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, and the first Duke of Bedford (d. 1700), by Kneller. Henry St. John, Vis- count Bo lingbroke, the sta.teavii3in (1678-1751), by H. Iligaud ; Matt. Prior (1664-1721), the poet, by Richardson ; Joseph Addison (1672- 1719), two portraits, by Kneller and Dahl; Sir Isaac Newton {iQ4:2- 1727), by Vanderbank; Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), by C. Jervas. As we approach our own times the portraits become much more numerous, and it must suffice to give here a mere selection of those most interesting from their subject or treatment. Portraits of the Eighteenth Century. Several portraits of Cardinal York (1725-1807), including one of him when a child by *Largilliere ; Charles Edward Stuart {1720-88'), the Pretender, por- traits by Largilliere and Batoni; Simon Eraser, Lord Lovat (p. 126), by Hogarth; Wm. Hogarth (1697-1764), the painter, by himself; Alexander Pope (1688-1744), in crayons, byHoare; Pope and Martha Blount, by Jervas; Bishop Berkeley (1684-1753), by Smibert; James Thomson (d. 1748), the poet, by Paton; Handel (d. 1759), by Hud- sou; Isaac Watts (d. 1748), the hymn-writer, by Kneller; *W. Pul- teney. Earl of Bath (1682-1764), by Reynolds, vigorously handled; General Wolfe (1726-59), by Highmore; Samuel Richardson (d. 1761), by Schaak; Peg Woffington (1720-1760), the actress, painted as she lay in bed paralysed, by A. Pond ; Sir Joshua Bej/- noWa (1723-1792), when a young man, by himself ; Oliver Gold- smith (1728-1774), by a pupil of Reynolds, a portrait familiar from numerous engravings; David Garrick (d. 1779), by Pine; Edmund Burke (d. 1797), by Reynolds; Sir Wm. Blackstone (1723-80), the lawyer, by Reynolds ; William, Duke of Cumberland (d. 1765), by Reynolds ; Sir William Chambers (d. 1796), the architect of Somerset House, by Reynolds, somewhat pale in tone; Admiral Viscount Kep- 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. 135 pel (1727-1782), ty Reynolds ; Sir William Hamilton (1740-1803), the diplomatist and antiquary, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and another by Allan (1775); Lord Clive (d. 1774), by Dance; Lord Chancellor Thurlow (1732-1806), by PhiUips; William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham (d. 1778), by Brompton ; ^Charles James Fox (1794-1806), by Hiekel; Queen Charlotte, wife of George III., by Allan Ramsay ; Benjamm Franfeim (1706-1790), by Baricolo; George Whitefield (^d. 1770), by Woolaston; Robert Burns (d. 1796), by Nasmyth, well known from engravings; Captain Cooke (d. 1779), by AVebber; two portraits oiJohn Wesiei/(1703-1791), one by Hone representing him at the age of 63, the other by Hamilton at the age of 85 ; John Wilkes (d. 1797), drawing by Earlom ; R.B.Sheridan (d. 1816), by Russell. Pgutraits op the Nineteenth Century. Warren Hastings (1733-1818), by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; Francis Corner (1778-1817), the politician and essayist, one of the founders of the 'Edinburgh Review', by Sir Henry Raeburn ; *Jam€S Watt (1736-1819), by C. J. de Breda; Sir Walter Scott (d. 1832), by Graham Gilbert; Scott, in his study at Abbotsford, with his deerhound Maida, by Sir Wm. Allan, the last portrait he sat for ; another by Landseer; Lord Byron (d. 1824), in Greek costume, by T. Phillips; Sir William Herschel (1738-1822), by Abbott; J. Flaxman (d. 1826), by Romney; W. Wilberforce, the philanthropist (d. 1833), by Sir T. Lawrence (un- finished) ; John Keats (d. 1821), by Hilton, and another by Severn ; John Philip Kemhle (1757-1826), the tragedian, as Hamlet, by Sir Thos. Lawrence; S. T. Coleridge (d. 1834), byAUston; Emma, Lady Hamilton (d. 1815), by Romney; Sir Philip Francis (d. 1818; supposed author of the 'Letters of Junius'), by Lonsdale; Sir James Mackintosh (A.. 1832), by Lawrence ; Wm. Blake (d. 1827), the poet and painter, by Phillips. Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), the discov- erer of the protective properties of vaccination, by Northcote; in front lies his work, 'On the Origin of Vaccine Inoculation' (1801), with a cow's hoof as letter-weight. Lord Nelson (d. 1805), by L. J. Abbott and H. Fiiger of Vienna (two portraits) ; * Jeremy Bentham, the economist and political writer (d. 1832), by T. Frye and H. W. Pickersgill; George Stephenson (1781-1848), the first to apply the locomotive engine to railway trains, and constructor of the first railway (from Manchester to Liverpool), opened in 1830 ; Rev. Ed. Irving (1792-1834), founder of the Irvingite or Catholic Apostolic Church, drawing by Slater ; Chas. Lamb (d. 1834), by Hazlitt ; Thos. Campbell (d. 1844), by Lawrence ; Mrs. Siddons (d. 1831), by Lawrence, and another by Beechey ; James Hogg, the 'Ettrick Shepherd' (d. 1833), by Denning; Sir David Wilkie (d. 1841), by himself; Benjamin West {d. 1820), by Stuart; Leigh Hunt (d. 1859), by Haydon ; Admiral Sir John Ross (1777-1856), the arctic navigator, by J. Green ; William Wordsworth (1770-1850), by H. W. Pickersgill; Samuel Rogers, the poet (1762-1855), charcoal drawing by Sir T. Lawrence; Queen Victoria, after Angeli; the 136 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. late Prince Consort (d. 1861), by Winterhalter ; Professor Wilson (^Christopher North; d. 1854), by Gordon; Rev. F. D. Maurice (d. 1872), by Hay ward ; * Thomas de Quincey (1785-1859), by Sir John Watson Gordon; Cofiden (d. 1867), by Dickinson; John Gibson the sculptor (1791-1861), by Mrs. Carpenter; M. Faraday (d. 1867), by Phillips ; Charles Dickens (d. 1870), by Ary Scheffer ; Lord Macaulay (d. 1859), sketch by Grant; W. S. Landor (d. 1864), by Fisher; Douglas Jerrold (d. 1857), by Macnee ; W, M. Thackeray (d. 1863), by Lawrence ; Daniel Maclise (d. 1870), by Ward \ E. B. Browning, the poetess (d. 1861), a chalk drawing by Talfourd ; Oeo. Grote, the historian of Greece (1794-1871), by Stewardson ; George Eliot (Mrs. Cross; d. 1880), by Sir F. Burton ; Sarah Austin, the novelist; Da- niel 0'Connell{d. 1847), byMulrennin; Sir Fr. Chantrey [d. 1841), by himself ; Lord Stratford de Redcliffe (1788-1880), by G. F. Watts ; Adelaide Procter (1825-1864), by Mrs. Gaggiottl Richards; Robert Owen, the socialist (d. iSbS); John Bright (d. 1889), by W.W. Ouless. At the E. end of the N. Gallery are the following large pic- tures: The First House of Commons after the Reform Bill of 1832, with 320 portraits, by Hayter (key below); Convention of the Anti- Slavery Society in 1840, by Haydon, with portraits of Clarkson, Fowell Buxton, Gurney, Lady Byron, etc. In the S. gallery is a photograph of the House of Commons in 1793, from the original picture by Anton Hickel, now in the National Gallery (p. 153). Among the most interesting of the busts and statues inter- spersed among the pictures axe the following. Sitting figure of Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam (1561-1626); bronze busts of Charles I. and Oliver Cromwell ; terracotta *Bust of Thomas Carlyle ri795-1881), by Boehm; a small marble bust of Thackeray (1811- 63), by Barnard; an electrotype mask of Keats, from a mould taken during life; sitting statuette of the Earl of Beaconsfield (iSOA-iSSi\ by Lord Ronald Gower; busts of W. Hogarth (1697-1764), byRou- biliac; Thackeray, by Durham; Charles James Fox (1749-1806), by Nollekens; John Hampden (1594-1643); Garrick (1716-1779); William Pitt (1759-1806), by Nollekens; Lord George Bentinck (1802-1848), by Campbell; Thomas Moore (d. 1852), by C. Moore; Lord Jeffrey (d. 1850), by Park; Parson (1759-1808), by Ganga- relli; Dr. Thom.as Arnold (1795-1842), by Behnes; John Wesley (1703-1791); Lord Chancellor Eldon (1751-1838), by Tatham; Sir Thos. Lawrence (d. 1830), by Baily ; Wm. Etty (d. 1849), by Noble ; Benjamin West (d. 1820). by Chantrey ; Sam. Lover (d. 1868), by Foley; George Stephenson{d. 1848), by Pitts; John Rennie (d. 1821), the engineer, by Chantrey ; Chas. Knight (d. 1873), by Durham ; Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850), by Noble; Cobden (d. 1865), by Woolner; and Lord John Russell (d. 1878), by Francis. — The glass-cases contain interesting Autographs, Miniatures, Medals, etc. 10. VICTORIA PARK. 137 The large building in Green Street, to the S. of the Museum, is a Lunatic Asylum. — From Old Ford Road, which diverges to the E. immediately to the N. of the Museum, Approach Road., in which is the City of London Consumption Hospital, leads to the N.E. to Victoria Park (PL B, 55, 58, 591. This park, covering 290 acres of ground, laid out at a cost of 130,000^., forms a place of recrea- tion for the poorer (E.) quarters of London. The eastern and larger portion is unplanted, and is used for cricket and other games. The W. side is prettily laid out with walks, beds of flowers, and two sheets of water, on which swans may be seen disporting them- selves, and pleasure boats hired. Near the centre of the park is the Victoria Fountain, in the form of a Gothic temple, erected by Baro- ness Burdett Coutts (comp. p. 26) in 1862. The park also contains open air gymnasiums. The most characteristic times to see Victoria Park are on Sat. or Sun. evenings or on a public holiday. On the N.W. side of the park, near Haclcney Common, is the large and handsome Hospice for the Descendants of French Protestants. — Victoria Park is most easily reached by the North London Railway ; trains start from Broad Street Station, City (p. 33), every 1/4 hr., and reach Victoria Park Station, at the N.E. extremity of the park, in 19 min. (fares Gd., 4d., 3d. ; return-tickets 9d., Qd., 5(i.); stations Shoreditch, Haggerston, Dalston, Hackney, Homerton, Victoria Park. Beyond Victoria Park the train proceeds to Old Ford, Bow, South Bromley, Poplar, and Blackwall (p. 131). 11. Fleet Street. The Temple. Chancery Lane. Royal Courts of Justice. St. Bride's. Church of St. Dunstan in the West. New Record Office. Temple Church. Lincoln's Inn. Gray's Inn. Temple Bar. Fleet Street (PI. R, 35; //), one of the busiest streets in London, leads from Ludgate Circus to the Strand and the West End. It derives its name from the Fleet Brook, which, now in the form of a main sewer, flows through Holborn Valley (p. 94) and under Farringdon Street, reaching the Thames at Blackfriars Bridge. On the E. side of the brook formerly stood the notorious Fleet Prison for debtors, which was removed in 1844. Prisoners condemned by the Star Cham- ber were once confined here, and within its precincts were formerly celebrated the clandestine 'Fleet marriages' (see 'The Fleet: its River, Prison, and Marriages', by John Ashton; 1888). Its site (in Farringdon Street, on the right) is now occupied by the handsome Gothic Congregational Memorial Hall, begun in 1862, and so named in memory of the 2000 ministers ejected from the Church of England by Charles II. 's Act of Uniformity, 1667. The site of the Hall cost nearly 30,000i., and the total amount expended on land and build- ing has been 93,450L 138 11. FLEET STREET. Fleet Street itself contains few objects of external interest, though many literary associations cluster round its courts and byways. It is still celebrated for its newspaper and other printing and publishing offices. To the left, but not visible from the street (entrance in St. Bride's Passage, adjoining the office of Punch) is St. Bride's, a church built by Wren in 1703, with a hand- some tower 223 ft. in height. In the central aisle is the grave of Richardson, the author of 'Clarissa Harlowe' (d. 1761], who lived in Salisbury Square in the neighbourhood. The old church of St. Bride, destroyed in the Fire, was the burial-place of Sackville (1608), Lovelace (1658), and the printer Wynkin de Worde. In a house in the adjacent churchyard Milton once lived for several years. Shoe Lane, nearly opposite the church, leads to Holborn ; while a little farther on, on the same side, axe Bolt Court, where Dr. John- son spent the last years of his life (1776-84), and where Cobbett afterwards toiled and fumed ; Wine Office Court, in which is still the famous old hostelry of the Cheshire Cheese, where Johnson (whose chair is shown here) and Goldsmith so often dined, and Boswell so often listened and took notes; Gough Square, at the top of the Court (to the left), where Johnson laboured over his Dictionary and other works (house marked by a tablet) ; and Crane Court, once the home of the Royal Society, its president being Sir Isaac Newton, and now the seat of the Scottish Corporation, whose ancient Hall , burnt clown in 1877, is replaced by a modern erection of 1879-80. On the other side is Bouverie Street, leading to what was once the lawless Alsatia, immortalised by Scott in the 'Fortunes of Nigel'. In the be- ginning of 1883 a part of the ancient monastery of Whitefriars was discovered in this street, including a fragment of a stone tower of great thickness and strength. Fetter Lane (p. 139), and Chancery Lane (p. 139) farther to the W., on the N. side, also lead to Holborn. At the corner of Chancery Lane is a handsome Branch of the Bank of England. Izaak Walton, the famous angler, once occupied a shop as a hosier (1624-43; comp. p. 139) on this site. Close to it is a quaint old house with bow windows (No. 184), once occupied by Drayton, the poet (d. 1631). Between Fetter Lane and Chancery Lane rises the church of St. Dunstan in the West, erected by Shaw in 1833, with a fine Gothic tower. Over the E. door is a statue of Queen Eliza- beth from the old Lud-Gate, once a city-gate at the foot of Ludgate Hill. The old clock of St. Dunstan had two wooden giants to strike the hours, which still perform that office at St. Dunstan's Villa, Re- gent's Park (p. 237). Near St. Dunstan's Church, at No. 183 Fleet Street, was Cobbett's book-shop and publishing office, where he is- sued his 'Political Register'; and on the opposite side, now No. 56, was the house of AVilliam Hone, the free-thinking publisher of the 'Every-day Book'. Opposite Fetter Lane is Mitre Court, with the tavern once frequented by Johnson, Goldsmith, and Boswell. 11. NEW RECORD OFFICE. 139 Fetter Lane (PI. R, 35, 36 ; II) is said to derive its name from the 'faitours' or beggars that once infested it. To the left, a few yards from Fleet Street, is an entrance to Clifford's Inn. Farther on is the New Record Office (PL R, 35 ; 7/), for the custody of legal records and state papers, a fire-proof edifice in the Tudor style, erected in 1851-66 by Sir J. Pennethorne. A large addition (to be finished in 1895) is at present being erected with a facade towards Chancery Lane. The necessary works have much altered this quarter of legal London. The interior contains 142 rooms, between the rows of which on each floor nxn narrow passages paved with brick. Each room or compartment is about 25 ft. long, 17 ft. broad, and I53/4 ft. high. The floor, door-posts, window-frames, and ceilings are of iron, and the shelves of slate. Sincu the completion of the structure , the state papers, formerly kept in the State Paper Office, the Tower, the Chapter House of Westminster Abbey, the Eolls Chapel in Chancery Lane, at Carlton House, and in the State Paper Office in St. James's Park, have been deposited here. Here, too, are preserved the Domesday Book, in two parchment volumes of different sizes, containing the results of a statistical survey of England made in 1086 by order of William the Conqueror-, the deed of resignation of the Scottish throne by David Bruce in favour of Edward II. ; a charter granted by Alphonso of Castile on the marriage of Edward I. with Eleanor of Castile 5 the treaty of peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I., with a gold seal said to be the work of Benvenufo Cellini; various deeds of surrender of monasteries in England and Wales in favour of Henry VIII. ; and an innumerable quantity of other records. The business hours are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (on Sat. 2 p.m.), during which the Search Rooms are open to the public. Documents down to 1760 may be inspected gratis ; the charge for copying is Qd.-ls. (according to date) per folio of 72 words, the minimum charge being 2s. The Moravian Chapel, opposite the Record Office, escaped the great fire in 1666. In Fleur-de-Lis Court, off Fetter Lane, is iVcu-- ton Hall, the meeting-place of the Positivists under Mr. Frederic Harrison (meetings on Sun. at 7.30 p.m.). In Breams Buildings, which runs from Fetter Lane to Chancery Lane, is the Birkbeck Liter- ary and Scientific Institute, a kind of evening college. Chancery Lane (PI. R, 32, 31, 35 ; //) leads through the quarter chiefly occupied by barristers and solicitors. Izaak Walton occupied a shop on the right near Crown Court, after removing from Fleet Street (p. 138). On the right is Serjeantfi' Inn opening into Clifford's Inn (p. 140). Farther up are the new buildings of the Record Office (p. 139), on the site of the Rolls Buildings. The former Court of the Master of the Rolls has been taken down, but the Master's former residence and the Rolls Chapel are preserved. In the latter (service on Sun. at 11 a.m.) is a remarkably fine monument to Dr. John Young, Master of the Rolls, by Torregriano (1516). Visitors on week- days apply to the policeman at the entrance from Chancery Lane. To the barristers belong the four great Inns of Court, viz. the Temple (Inner and Middle) on the S. of Fleet Street (see p. 141), Lincoln's Inn in Chancery Lane, and Gray's Inn in Holborn. These Inns are colleges for the study of law, and possess the privilege of calling to the Bar. Each is governed by its older members, who are termed Benchers. 140 11. LINCOLN'S INN. Formerly subsidiary to the four Inns of Court were the nine Inns of Chancery, which now, however, have little beyond local connection with them, and are let out in chambers to solicitors, barristers, and the gen- eral public. These are Clifford^ s Jnn, Clement's Inn, an A. Lyon's Inn (no^v the site of the Globe Theatre), attached to ihe Inner Temple; I^ew Inn and Strand Inn, to the Middle Temple; Furnival's Inn and Thavies' Inn, to Lincoln's Inn: Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn (p. 95), to Gray's Inn. Serjeants' Inn, Chancery Lane, was originally set apart for the use of the serjeants-at-law, whose name is derived from the 'fratres servientes' of the old Knights Templar; but the building is now used for other purposes. Lincoln's Inn (PL R, 31, 32; //), tlie third of tlie Inns of Court in importance, is situated without the City, on a site once occupied by the mansion of the Earl of Lincoln and other houses. The Gatehouse in Chancery Lane was built in 1518 by Sir Thomas Lovell, whose coat-of-arms it bears. Ben Jonson is said to have been employed as a bricklayer in constructing the adjacent wall about a century later (1617); but the truth of this tradition may well be doubted, since in 1617 Jonson was 44 years old and had written some of his best plays. The Chapel was erected by Jnigo Jones in 1621-23, and contains good wood-carving and stained glass. Like the Round Church of the Temple, this chapel was once used as a consultation room by the barristers and their clients. The New Hall, the handsome dining-hall of Lincoln's Inn, in the Tudor style , was completed in 1845 under the supervision of Mr. Hardwick, the architect. It contains a painting by Hogarth, representing Paul before Felix, a large fresco of the School of Legis- lation, by G. F. Waits (1860), and a statue of Lord Eldon, by West- macott. The Library, founded in 1497, is the oldest in London, and contains 25,000 vols, and numerous valuable MSS.; most of the latter were bequeathed by Sir Matthew Hale, a member of the Inn. Among its most prized contents is the fourth volume of Prynne's Records, for which the society gave 335i. — The revenue of this inn amounts to 35,329i. Sir Thomas More, Shaftesbury, Selden, Oliver Cromwell, William Pitt, Lord Erskine, Lord Mansfield, and Lord Brougham were once numbered among its members. Thurloe, Crom- well's secretary, had chambers at No. 24 Old Square (to the left, on the ground-floor) in 1645-59, and the Thurloe papers were after- wards discovered here in the false ceiling. Among the preachers of Lincoln's Inn were Usher, Tillotson, Heber, and Frederick Denison Maurice. — The Court of Chancery, or, more correctly, under the Judicature Act of 1873, the 'Equity Division of the High Court of Justice', formerly held some of its sittings in Lincoln's Inn. Lin- coln's Inn Fields, see p. 183. Chancery Lane ends at Holborn, at a point a little to the N. of which is Gray's Inn (PL R, 32; JI), which formerly paid a ground- rent to the Lords Gray of Wilton and has existed as a school of law since 1371. The Elizabethan Hall, built about 1560, contains fine wood-carving. During the 17th cent, the garden, in which a number of trees were planted by Lord Bacon, was a fashionable promenade ; 11. THE TEMPLE. 141 but it is not now open to the public. The name of Lord Bacon is the most eminent among those of former members of Gray's Inn. Comp. 'Chronicles of an Old Inn', by Andree Hope. — Gray's Inn Road, an important but unattractive thoroughfare to the E. of Gray's Inn, runs to the N., passing the Royal Free Hospital, from Holborn to Euston Road (King's Cross Station, p. 32). The Temple [PI. R, 35 ; 77) , on the S. side of Fleet Street, formerly a lodge of the Knights Templar, — a religious and mili- tary order founded at Jerusalem, in the 12th century, under Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, to protect the Holy Sepulchre, and pilgrims resorting thither, and called Templars from their original designation as 'poor soldiers of the Temple of Solomon' — became crown-property on the dissolution of the order in 1313, and was presented by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. After Pembroke's death the Temple came into the possession of the Knights of St. John, who, in 1346, leased it to the students of common law. From that time to the present day the building, or rather group of buildings, which extends down to the Thames, has continued to be a school of law. Down to the reign of James I. it had to pay a tax to the Crown, but in 1609 it was declared by royal decree the free, hereditary property of the corporations of the Inner and the Middle Temple. The revenue of the Inner Temple amounts to 25,676L , that of the Middle Temple to 12,240^. The Inner Temple is so called from its position within the precincts of the City; the Middle Temple derives its name from its situation between the Inner and the Outer Temple, the last of which was afterwards replaced by Exeter Buildings. The name Oviter Temple is now appropriated by a handsome block of offices and chambers directly opposite the new Law Courts (p. 144). Middle Temple Lane separates the Inner Temple on the east from the Middle Temple on the west. The Inner and the Middle Temple possess in common the *Temple Church, or St. Mary's Church, situated within the bounds of the Inner Temple. Adm., see p. 78; visitors knock at the door ; if the verger is not in the church, the keys may be ob- tained at the porter's lodge, at the top of Inner Temple Lane. This church is divided into two sections, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round Church, about 58 ft. in diameter, a Norman edifice with a tendency to the transition style, and admirably en- riched, was completed in 1185. The choir, in the Early English style, was added in 1240. During the Protectorate the ceiling- paintings were white-washed ; and the old church afterwards became so dilapidated, that it was necessary in 1839-42 to subject it to a thorough restoration, a work which cost no less than 70,000Z. The lawyers used formerly to receive their clients in the Round Church, each occupying his particular post like merchants 'on change'. Th^ 142 11. TEMPLE CHURCH. incumbent of the Temple Church is called the Master of the Temple, an office once filled by the 'judicious Hooker', a bust of ■whom is placed in the S.E. corner of the choir. A handsome Norman archway leads into the interior, which is a few steps below the level of the entrance. The choir, at the end of which are the altar and stalls (during divine service open to members of the Temple corporations and their families only), and the Round Church (to which the public is admitted) are both borne by quadrangular clustered pillars in marble. The ceiling is a fine exapmle of Gothic decorative painting, carefully restored on the original lines. The pavement consists of tiles, in which the lamb with the cross (the Agnus Dei), the heraldic emblem of the Templars , and the Pegasus , the arms of the Inner and Middle Temple respectively, continually recur. Most of the stained- glass windows are modern. In the Round Church are nine *Monu~ merits of Templars of the 12th and 13th centuries , consisting of recumbent figures of dark marble in full armour. One of the four on the S. side , under whose pillow is a slab with foliage in relief, is said to be that of William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke (d. 1219), brother-in-law of King John, who filled the office of Regent during the minority of Henry III. The detached monument on the S. wall, resembling the other eight, is that of Robert deRoss (d. 1227), one of the Barons to whom England owes the Magna Charta (p. 193). The monuments are beautifully executed, but owe their fresh appearance to a 'restoration' by Richardson in 1842. In a recess to the left of the altar is a black marble slab in memory of John Selden (d. 1654), 'the great dictator of learning to the English nation' ; and to the right of the altar is a fine recumbent effigy of a mitred ecclesiastic, discovered in the wall of the church during the restoration in 1840. The triforium, which encircles the Round Church, contains some uninteresting old monuments , but is not now open to the public. On the stair leading to it is a small peni- tential cell, prisoners in which could hear the service in the church by means of slits in the wall. Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), author of the 'Vicar of Wakefield', is buried in the Churchyard to the N. of the choir. — See 'The Temple Church and Chapel of St. Ann', by H. T. Baylis, Q. C. (London, 1893). The Temple Gardens, once immediately adjacent to the Thames, but now separated from it by the Victoria Embankment, are open to the public on days and hours determined from time to time by the Benchers (ascertainable by enquiry at the gates or lodges). The gardens are well kept, but are becoming more and more cir- cumscribed by the erection of new buildings. Here, according to Shakspeare, were plucked the white and red roses which were assumed as the badges of the houses of York and Lancaster, in the long and bloody civil contest, known as the 'Wars of the Roses'. 11. TEMPLE BAR. 143 Plantagenet. Great lords, and gentlemen, what means this silence? Dare no man answer in a ease of truth? Suffolk. Within the Temple hall we were too loud ; The garden here is more convenient. Plantagenet. Since you are tongue-tied and so loath to speak, In dumb significants proclaim your thoughts : Let him that is a true-born gentleman, And stands upon the honour of his birth, If he suppose that I have pleaded truth, From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, But dare maintain the party of the truth, Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me. Warwick. — This brawl to-day. Grown to this faction in the Temple Garden, Shall send, between the red rose and the white, A thousand souls to death and deadly night. Henry VI., Part I; Act ii. Sc. 4. The Temple Gardens are famous for their Chrysanthemums, a brilliant show of which is held in November. The figure of a Moor (Italian ; 17th or 18th cent), bearing a sun-dial was brought hither from the garden of St. Clement's Inn. The fine Gothic *Hall of the Middle Temple, built in 1572, and used as a dining-room, is notable for its handsome open-work ceiling in old oak. The walls are embellished with the armorial bearings of the Knights Templar, and five large full-length portraits of princes, including an equestrian portrait of Charles I. The large windows contain the arms of members of the Temple who have sat in the House of Peers. Shakspeare's 'Twelfth Night' was acted in this hall during the dramatist's lifetime (Feb. 2nd, 1601-2). — Tlie Library (30,000 vols.) is preserved in a modern Gothic building on the side next the Thames, which contains a hall 85 ft. long and 62 ft. high. — The new Inner Temple Hall , opened in 1870, is a handsome structure, also possessing a fine open-work roof. — Oliver Gold- smith lived and died on the second floor of 2 Brick Court, Middle Temple Lane ; Blackstone, the famous commentator on the law of England, lived in the rooms below him ; and Dr. Johnson occu- pied apartments in Inner Temple Lane, in a house now taken down. At the W. end of Fleet Street rises the Temple Bar Memorial., with statues of the Queen and the Prince of Wales at the sides and surmounted by the City Griffin and arms. This was erected in 1880 to mark the site of Temple Bar, a gateway formerly adjoining the Temple, between Fleet Street and the Strand, built by Wren in 1670. Its W. side was adorned with statues of Charles I. and Charles II., its E. side with statues of Anne of Denmark and James I. The heads ot criminals used to be barbarously exhibited on iron spikes on the top of the gate. "When the reigning sovereign visited the City on state occasions, he was wont, in accordance with an ancient custom, to obtain permission from the Lord Mayor to pass TempleBar. The heavy wooden^gates were afterwards removed |to relieve the Bar of their 144 11. COURTS OF JUSTICE. weight, as it had shown signs of weakness ; and the whole erection was finally demolished early in 1878 , to permit of the widening of the street and to facilitate the enormous traffic. In Dec, 1888, the gate was re-erected near one of the entrances of Theobalds Park, Waltham Cross, Herts, the seat of Sir H. B. Meux (see p. 338). Adjoining the site of Temple Bar, on the S. side of Fleet Street, stands the large, new building of Child's Bank, which was in high repute in the time of the Stuarts, and is the oldest banking house in London but one Dryden, Pepys, Nell Gwynne, and Prince Rupert were early customers of this bank. The Child family is still connected with the business. Next door to this house was the 'Devirs Tavern', noted as the home of the Apollo Club, of which Ben Jonson, Randolph, and Dr. Kenrick were frequenters. The tavern was in time absorbed by Child's Bank , which also used the room over the main arch of Temple Bar as a storehouse. Immediately to the E. of Temple Bar, on the N. side of the Strand [p. 145), rise the Koyal Courts of Justice, a vast and magnificent Gothic pile, forming a whole block of buildings, with a frontage towards the Strand of about 500 ft. The architect was Mr. G. E. Street, who unfortunately died shortly before the com- pletion of his great work; a statue of him, by Armstead, has been placed on the E. side of the central hall. The Courts were formally opened on Dec. 4th, 1882, by Queen Victoria, in presence of the Lord Chancellor, the Prime Minister, and the other chief dignitaries of the realm. The building cost about 750,000i. and the site about 1,450,000^. The principal internal feature is the large central hall. 238 ft. long, 48 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high, with a fine mosaic flooring designed by Mr. Street. The building contains in all 19 court- rooms and about 1100 apartments of all kinds. When the courts are sitting, the general public are admitted to the galleries only, the central hall and the court-rooms being reserved for members of the Bar and persons connected with the cases. During the vacation the central hall is open to the public from 11 to 3, and tickets of admission to the courts may be obtained gratis at the superintendent's office. For about a century and a half after the Norman Conquest, the royal court of justice followed the King from place to place; but one of the articles of Magna Charta provided that the Common Pleas, or that branch of the court in which disputes between subjects were settled, should be fixed at Westminster. The Court of King's Bench seems to have been also held here from the time of Henry III. The Court of Chancery sat regularly in Westminster Hall from about the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards removed to Lincoln's Inn. This separation of common law and equity proved very inconvenient to the attorneys and others, and the Westminster courts became much too small for the business carried on in them. It was accordingly resolved to build a large new palace of justice to receive all the superior courts, and the site of the present Law Courts was fixed upon in 1867. The work of building actually began in 1874. The Judicature Act of 1873 oliliterated the distinction between common law and equity, and united all the superior triliunals of the country into a Supreme Court of Judicature, subdivided into a court of original jurisdiction (the High Court of Justice) and a court of appellate jurisdiction (the Court of Appeal). II. THE WEST END. 12. Strand. Somerset House. Waterloo Bridge. St. Clement Danes. The Roman Bath. King^s College. St. Mary le Strand. Savoy Chapel. Savoy Palace. Society of Arts. National Life Boat Institution. Eleanor's Cross. The Strand (PL R, 26, 31, and II; so named from its skirting the bank of the river, which is now concealed by the buildings), a broad street containing many handsome shops, is the great artery of traffic between the City and the West End, and one of the busiest and most important thoroughfares in London. It was unpaved down to 1532, and about this time it was described as 'full of pits and sloughs, very perilous and noisome'. At this period many of the mansions of the nobility and hierarchy stood here, with gardens stretching down to the Thames (comp. p. 115). The names of several streets and houses still recall these days of bygone magnificence, but the palaces themselves have long since disappeared or been converted to more plebeian uses. Ivy Bridge Lane and Strand Bridge Lane com- memorate the site of bridges over two water-courses that flowed into the Thames here, and there was a third bridge farther to theE. The Strand contains a great many newspaper offices and theatres. Just beyond the site of Temple Bar (p. 143), to which its name will doubtless long attach, on the (N.) right, rise the new Law Courts (p. 144). The church of St. Clement Danes, in the centre of the Strand, was erected in 1688 from designs by Wren. The tower, 115 ft. in height, was added by Oibbs in 1719. Dr. John- son used to worship in this church, a fact recorded by a tablet on the back of the pew. The church is said to bear its name from being the burial-place of Harold Harefoot and other Danes, Wych Street, in which the Olympic Theatre (p. 41) is situated, leads from this point to Drury Lane. At the entrance of this street is Clement's Inn (p. 140), now connected with the Temple, and named after St. Clement's Well, once situated here, but removed in 1874. — In Newcastle Street, a little to the N., is the Globe Theatre (p. 41). Essex Street, Arundel Street, Norfolk Street, and Surrey Street, diverging to the left, mark the spots where stood the mansions of the Earls of Essex (Queen Elizabeth's favourite), Arundel, and Surrey (Norfolk) respectively ; and they all lead to the Thames Embankment. Peter the Great resided in Norfolk Street during his visit to London in 1698, and William Penn once lived at No. 21 In the same street. George Sale (1680-1736), the translator of the Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 10 146 12. SOMERSET HOUSE. Koran, as well as Congreve (d. 1729), the dramatist, lived and died in Surrey Street. Beyond Surrey Street, on the left, is the Strand Theatre (p. 40), nearly opposite which is the Opera Comique (p. 41). At No. 5 Strand Lane, the narrow opening to the left of the Strand Theatre, is an ancient Roman Bath, about 13 ft. long, 6 ft. broad, and 41/2 ft. deep, one of the few relics of the Roman period in London. The bricks at the side are laid edge- wise, and the flooring consists of brick with a thin coating of stucco. At the point where the water, which flows from a natural spring, has washed away part of the stucco covering, the old pave- ment below is visible. The clear, cold water probably flows from the old ^Holy Well\ situated on the N. side of the Strand, and lending its name to Holywell Street (behind the Opera Comique), which is chiefly occupied by book-shops of a low class. The Roman an- tiquities found here are preserved in the British Museum (p. 258). Close by, on the right of the passage, is another bath, said to have been built by the Earl of Essex about 1588; it is supplied by a pipe from the Roman bath. At No. 36 Holywell Street is a survivor of the ancient signs with which every shop in London used to be provided (a crescent moon with a face in the centre). To the N. of Holywell Street is Wych Street, with an entrance to New Inn (p. 140) and the Olympic Theatre (p. 41). King's College, the large pile of buildings adjoining Strand Lane on the W., built by Smirke in 1828, forms the E. wing of Somerset House (see below). It includes a School for boys as well as a College with departments for theology, literature, medicine, etc. The Museum contains a collection of models and instruments, in- cluding Babbage's calculating machine. In the Strand we next reach, on the N. side, the church of St. Mary le Strand, built by Gibbs in 1717, on the spot where stood in olden times the notorious Maypole, the May-day and Sun- day delight of youthful and other idlers. It was called St. Mary's after an earlier church which had been demolished by Protector Somerset to make room for his mansion of Old Somerset House (see below). Thomas Becket was rector of this parish in the reign of King Stephen. — Drury Lane, a street much in need of im- provement, and containing the theatre of the same name (p. 40), leads N. from this point to Oxford Street and the British Museum. Farther on, on theS. side of the Strand, rises the stately facade of Somerset House (PI. R, 31 ; /i), 150 ft. in length. The present large, quadrangular building was erected by Sir William Chambers in 1776-86, on the site of a palace which the Protector Somerset began to build in 1549. The Protector, however, was beheaded (p. 126) before it was completed, and the palace fell to the Crown. It was afterwards the residence of Anne of Denmark , consort of James I., of Henrietta Maria, the queen of Charles I., and of Catha- rine of Braganza, the neglected wife of the second Charles. Inigo 12. WATERLOO BRIDGE. 147 Jones died here in 1652. The old building was taken down in 1766, and the present edifice, now occupied by various public offices, erected in its stead. The imposing principal fa(jade to- wards the Thames, 780 ft. in length, rises on a terrace 50 ft, broad and 50 ft. high, and is now separated from the river by the Victoria Embankment. The quadrangular court contains a bronze group by Bacon, representing George III. leaning on a rudder, with the English lion and Father Thames at his feet. The two wings of the building were erected during the present cent. : the eastern, containing King's College (p. 146), by Smirke, in 1828 ; the western, towards Wellington Street, by Pennethorne, in 1854-56. The sum expended in constructing the latter alone was 81,000i. ; and the cost of the whole building amounted to 500,000i. At Somerset House no fewer than 900 officials are em- ployed, with salaries amounting in the aggregate to 275,000i. The building is said to contain 3600 windows. The public offices established here include the Audit Office ; the Inland Revenue Office, in the new W. wing, containing the presses for stamped paper, postage stamps, etc.; the Office of the Registrar- General of Births, Deaths, and Marriages ; the Admiralty Register ; and Z)ocfors' Commons Will Office (Prerogative Court), transferred hither from Doctors' Commons, Bennet's Hill (p. 118), in 1874. This last de- partment is the great repository of testamentary writings of all kinds. The Department for Literary Enquiry in the Central Hall is open daily from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Here may be seen an interesting collection of wills , including those of Shakspeare , Holbein , Van Dyck, Newton, and Samuel Johnson. The will of Napoleon I., ex- ecuted at St. Helena, used to be kept here, but was handed over to the French in 1853. Visitors are allowed to read copies of wills previous to 1700, from which also pencil extracts may be made. For showing wills of a later date a charge of Is. is made. A fee of Is. is also charged for searching the calendars. No extracts may be made from these later wills , but official copies may be procured at 8d. per folio page. On the W. side of Somerset House is Wellington Street , lead- ing to *Waterloo Bridge. This bridge, one of the finest in the world, was built by John Rennie for a company in 1811-17, at a cost of over 1,000,000^ It is 460 yds. long and 42 ft. broad, and rests upon 9 arches , each of 120 ft. span and 35 ft. high , and borne by granite buttresses. It commands an admirable view of the W. part of London between Westminster and St. Paul's, of the Thames Embankment, and of the massive but well-proportioned facade of Somerset House. In 1878 the bridge was sold to the Metropolitan Board of Works for 475,000i. and opened to the public toll-free. — Waterloo Bridge Road, on the S. side of the river, leads to Waterloo Station (p. 34). On the N. side of the Strand we next observe several theatres, 10* 148 i% SOCIETY OF ARTS. includiug the Gaiety (p. 40) and the Lyceum (p. 40). Beyond these, hetween Burleigh Street and Exeter Street (commemorating Exeter House, the residence of Queen Elizabeth's Lord Chancel- lor), is Exeter Hall, marked by its Corinthian portico, and capable of containing 5000 persons. It is the property of the Young Men's Christian Association and used for the advocacy of religious and philanthropic movements (the large annual 'May Meetings' of va- rious religious societies being held here). To the left is Savoy Street, leading to the Savoy Chapel, de- dicated to St. John the Baptist , and built in the Perpendicular style in 1505-11, during the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII., on the site of the ancient Savoy Palace. The chapel, which is one of the Chapels Royal, was seriously injured by lire in 1864, hut restored at the expense of Queen Victoria. The handsome wooden ceiling is modern. Bishop Gavin Douglas of Dunkeld (d. 1522), the poetical translator of Virgil, is buried in the chancel (with brass), and George Wither (d. 1667), the poet, was also buried here. Fine stained glass. Savoy Palace was first built in 1245, and was given by Henry III. to Peter, Count of Savoy, the uncle of his queen, Eleanor of Provence. The captive King John of France died here in 1364, and Chaucer was probably married here when the palace was occupied by John of Gaunt. It lay between the present chapel and the river, but has entirely disappeared. At the Savoy, in the time of Cromwell, the Independents adopted a Confession of Faith , and here the celebrated 'Savoy Con- ference' for the revision of the Prayer Book was held, when Baxter, Calamy, and others represented the Nonconformists. The German chapel which used to stand contiguous to the Savoy Chapel was removed in widening Savoy Street, which now forms a thoroughfare to the Thames Embankment. The French Protestants who conformed to the English church had a chapel here from the time of Charles II. till 1737. See Memorials of the Savoi/, by the Rev. W. J. Loftie (Macmillan; 1878). Farther on, to the left, is Terry's Theatre (p. 41), beyond which Beaufort Buildings leads to the Savoy Theatre (p. 40). At No. 13 Cecil Street, to the left, Sir W. Congreve (d. 1828),. the inventor of the Congreve Rocket, resided and made his experi- ments, firing the rockets across the Thames. A little to the N. of this part of the Strand lies Covent Garden Market (p. 186). On the right, between Southampton Street and Bedford Street, is the Vaudeville Theatre (p. 41) ; beyond it, the Adelphi Theatre (p. 40). In Bedford Street is a store of the Civil Service Supply Association (p. 26). To the S. of the Strand, opposite the Adelphi Theatre, is the region known as 'the Adelphi', built by four brothers called Adam, whose names are commemorated in Adam St., John St., Robert St., James St., and William St., and in the Adelphi Terrace. In John St. rises the building of the Society of Arts (PI. R, 30 ; //), an association established in 1754 for the encouragement of arts, manufactures, and commerce, which took a prominent part in promoting the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The large hall (open daily, 10-4, except Wednes- days and Saturdays) contains six paintings by Barry (1777-83), re- presenting the progress of civilisation. No. 14 in the same street is the headquarters of the Royal National Life Boat Institution, 13. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. 149 founded in 1824 and supported entirely by voluntary contributions. TMs society now possesses a fleet of 311 life-boats stationed round the British coasts , and in 1893 was instrumental in saving 598 lives and 27 vessels. The total number of lives saved through the agency of the Institution from its foundation down to 1889 was above 37,855. The expenditure of the society in 1893 was 83,035i. The average cost of establishing a life-boat station is 1050i., and the annual expense of maintaining it 70l. — Adelphi Terrace , overlooking the Thames and the Embankment , contains the house in which David Garrlck died in 1779 (tablet). Nos. 6 and 7 in this terrace are occupied by the Savage Club; and No. 5 by the Royal Statistical Society. On the right, where King William Street joins the Strand, stands the Charing Cross Hospital; and in King William Street are the Ophthalmic Hospital and Toole's The- atre (p. 41). A little farther on, in the Strand, on the right hand, is the Lowther Arcade (p. 24), and on the left is Coutts^s Bank, a very noted firm, at which the royal family has banked for nearly 200 years. At the W. end of the Strand, on the left, is Charing Cross Station (with a large Hotel, p. 6), the West End terminus of the South-Eastern Railway (p. 32) , built by Barry on the site of Hungerford Market, where the mansion of Sir Edward Hungerford stood until it was burned down in 1669. In front of it stands a mod- ern copy of Eleanor s Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291 by Edward I. at Charing Cross, near the spot where the coffin of his consort was set down during its last halt on the way to Westminster Abbey. The original was removed by order of Parliament in 1647. The river is here crossed by the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, on one side of which is a foot-way (freed from toll in 1878). — To the E. of the station is Villiers Street, which descends to the Em- bankment Gardens (p. 115) and to the Charing Cross Station (p. 32) of the Metropolitan Railway. — Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7 Craven Street (denoted by a memorial tablet), to the W. of the station. 13. Trafalgar Square. Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields. Charing Cross. *Trafalgar Square (PI. R, 26 ; //, IV), one of the finest open places in London and a great centre of attraction, is, so to speak, dedicated to Lord Nelson, and commemorates his glorious death at the battle of Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805), gained by the English fleet over the combined armaments of France and Spain. By this victory Na- poleon's purpose of invading England was frustrated. The ambitious Emperor had assembled at Boulogne an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 cavalry, and also 2413 transports to convey his soldiers to England, but his fleet, which he had been building for many years at an enormous cost, and which was to have covered his passage of 150 13. ST. MARTIN'S IN THE FIELD'S. the Channel, was destroyed by Nelson at this famous battle. The Admiral is, therefore, justly revered as the saviour of his country. In the centre of the square rises the massive granite Column, 145 ft. in height, to the memory of the hero. It is a copy of one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars Ultor , the avenging god of war, at Rome, and is crowned with a Statue of Nelson, by jBai7t/ , 17 ft. in height. The pedestal is adorned with reliefs in bronze , cast with the metal of captured French cannon. On the N, face is a scene from the battle of Aboukir (1798) ; Nel- son, wounded in the head , declines to be assisted out of his turn by a surgeon who has been dressing the wounds of a common sailor. On the E. side is the battle of Copenhagen (1801) ; Nelson is re- presented as sealing upon a cannon the treaty of peace with the conquered Danes. On the S. is the death of Nelson at Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805) ; beside the dying hero is Captain Hardy, com- mander of the Admiral's flag-ship. Below is Nelson's last com- mand : 'England expects every man will do his duty'. On the W. side is a representation of Nelson receiving the sword of the Span- ish commander after the battle of St. Yincent (1797). — Four colossal bronze lions , modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1871) in 1867, couch upon pedestals running out from the column in the form of a cross. — The monument was erected in 1843 by voluntary con- tributions at a total cost of about 45,000f. Towards the N. side of the square, which is paved with asphalt, are two fountains. A Statue of Sir Henry Havelock, the deliverer of Lucknow (d. 1857), by Behnes, stands on the E. (Strand) side of the Nelson Column, and a Statue of Sir Charles James Napier, the conqueror of Scinde (d. 1853), by Adams, on the other. The N.E. corner of the square is occupied by an Equestrian Statue ofOeorge IV.j in bronze by Chantrey. Between the fountains is a Statue of Gen^ eral Gordon (d. 1885), by Hamo Thorneycroft, erected in 1888. On the terrace on the N. side of the square rises the National Gallery (p. 152), adjoined hy the National Portrait Gallery (p. 152). Near it, on the E., is the church of St. Martin in the Fields, with a noble Grecian portico, erected in 1721-26 by Gibbs, on the site of an earlier church. Nell Gwynne (d. 1687), Farquhar the dramatist (d. 1707), Roubiliac the sculptor (d. 1762), and James Smith (d. 1839), one of the authors of 'Rejected Addresses', were buried in the churchyard. The bells are still rung once a week, in terms of a legacy left by Nell Gwynne. Adjoining Morley's Hotel, on the E. side of the square, is the build- ing of the Royal Humane Society, founded in 1774 for the rescue of drowning persons. This valuable society possesses a model house on the N. bank of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, containing models of the best appliances for saving life, and apparatus for aiding bathers and skaters who may be in danger. It also awards prizes and medals to persons who have saved others from drowning. 13. CHARING CROSS. 151 Down to 1874 Northumberland House, the noble mansion of the Duke of NorthumlDerland, with the lion of the Percies high above the gates, rose on the S.E. side of Trafalgar Square. It was purchas- ed in 1873 by the Metropolitan Board of Works for 497,000^., and was removed to make way for Northumberland Avenue, a broad new street from Charing Cross to the Thames Embankment (comp. p. 115). The Grand Hotel (p. 6) occupies part of the site. Two other large hotels, the Hotel Metr op ole and the Hotel Victoria, have been built on the opposite side of Northumberland Avenue. Next door to the Grand Hotel is the Constitutional Club, a handsome building of red and yellow terracotta in the style of the German Renaissance, erected in 1886. At the corner of Northumberland Avenue and Whitehall Place, facing the Thames, is the magnificent new build- ing of the National Liberal Club , opened in 1887. One of the most attractive features of this imposing edifice is the spacious flagged terrace overlooking the Embankment Gardens and the river. On the W. side of Trafalgar Square, between Cockspur Street and Pall Mall East, is the Union Club (p. 74j, adjoining which is the Royal College of Physicians, built by «Smirfce in 1825, and containing a number of portraits and busts of celebrated London physicians. Charing Cross (PI. R, 26, and IV; probably so called from the village of Cherringe which stood here in the 13th cent.), on the S. side of Trafalgar Square, between the Strand and Whitehall, is the principal point of intersection of the omnibus lines of the West End, and the centre of the 4 and 12 miles circles on the Post Office Di- rectory Map. The Equestrian Statue of Charles I. , by Le Sueur, which stands here, is remarkable for the vicissitudes it has undergone. It was cast in 1633, but had not yet been erected when the Civil War broke out. It was then sold by the Parliament to a brazier, named John Rivet, for the purpose of being melted down, and this worthy sold pretended fragments of it both to friends and foes of the Stuarts. At the Restoration , however , the statue was produced uninjured, and in 1674 it was erected on the spot where Eleanor s Cross (p. 149) had stood down to 1647. In Hartshorn Lane, an adjoining street , Ben Jonson , when a boy , once lived with his mother and her second husband, a bricklayer. Charing Cross Road (PI. R, 27), a great and much needed thoroughfare from Charing Cross to Tottenham Court Road, cuts through a number of low streets and alleys to theN. of St. Martin's Church. At the S. end of this street, to the left, is the new National Portrait Gallery (p. 152), and to the right are a new Savings Bank, the St. Martin's Vestry Hall and Public Library, and the Garrick The- atre (p. 41). Farther up are some large blocks of Industrial Dwel- lings, and the Welsh Presbyterian Chapel (on the left). The road then expands into Cambridge Circus, in which is the handsome facade of the Palace Music Hall (p. 42), erected as the Royal Eng- lish Opera House in 1891. In the section of Charing Cross Road to 152 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. the N. of the Circus is the church of St. Mary the Virgin, Soho, on the site of the first Greek church in London (1677), part of which is still standing (see Greek inscription over the W. door). The church, which was afterwards occupied by a French congregation, contains some old stained glass and a good Crucifixion, in marble, by Miss Grant. — Shaftesbury Avenue, another wide street open- ed in 1886, runs from Piccadilly Circus , past the Lyric and. the Shaftesbury Theatres (p. 41), to meet Charing Cross Road at Cam- bridge Circus, and is prolonged to New Oxford Street opposite Hart Street, Bloomsbury. 14. The National Gallery. Among the buildings round Trafalgar Square the principal in point of size, although perhaps not in architectural merit, is the **National Gallery (PI. R, 26; i/), situated on a terrace on the N. side, and erected in 1832-38, at an original costof 96,000i., on the site of the old King's Mews. The building, designed by Wilkins, is in the Grecian style, and has a facade 460 ft. in length. The Gallery was considerably altered and enlarged in 1860; an extensive ad- dition (including the central octagon) was made by Mr. E. M. Barry in 1876; and five other rooms, including a gallery 85 ft. long, were opened in 1887. At the back of the National Gallery the new National Portrait Gallery (p. 132) has been erected, with a facade towards Charing Cross Road, and will probably be opened in 1894. The nucleus of the Xatiou:il Gallery, which was formed by Act of Par- liament in 1824, consisted solely of the Angerstein collection of 38 pictures. It has, however, been rapidly and greatly extended by means of dona- tions, legacies, and purchases, and is now composed of some 1400 pictures, about llOO of which are exhibited in the 22 rooms of the Gallery, while the others are lent to provincial collections. Among the most important additions have been the collections presented or bequeathed by Robert Vernon (1847), J. M. W. Turner (1856), and Wynn Ellis (1876); and the Peel collection, bought in 1871. For a long period part of the building was occupied by the Royal Academy of Arts, which, however, was removed to Burlington House (p. 229) in 1869. The National Collection has since been wholly re-arranged, and is now entirely under one roof. (This is, of course quite distinct from the national collections at South Kensington.) — In 1893 the National Gallery was visited on the free days by 486,746 persons, being a daily average of 2351, and on the pay-days (Thurs. and Frid.) by 3S,1)76 persons, besides 20,936 students. From the number of artists represented, the collection in the National Gallery is exceedingly valuable to students of the history of art. The older Italian masters are especially important. The catalogues prepared by Mr. Wornum (d. 1877), the late keeper of the Gallery, and re-issued with corrections and additions by Sir F. W. Burton in 1889 (Foreign Schools Is., abridgment iid. ; British School 6d.), comprise short biographies of the different artists. The 'Pall Mall Gazette Guide to the National Gallery' (6d.; sold outside the doors) contains a descriptive catalogue and a scheme for studying the gallery in a series of twelve 'half-holiday visits'. Air. E. T. Cook''s 'Popular Handbook to the National Gallery' (Macmillan* Co., 3rd ed. 1891) includes an interesting collection of notes on the pictures by Mr. Ruskin and others. See also Br. J. P. Richter's 'Italian Art in the National Gallery' (1883). Each picture is inscribed with the name of the painter, the year of his birth and death, the school to which he belongs, and the subject repre- 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 153 sented. The present director is Mr. E. J. Poynier^ R. -4., and the keeper and secretary is Mr. Charles Eastlake. — Photographs of the paintings, by Morelli, are sold in the gallery at prices ranging from Is. to 10s. Those taken by Braun & Cie.., of Dornach and Paris, and by the Berlin Photo- graphic Co. are, however, better; the former (6-125.) may be obtained at the Autotype Fine Art Gallery, 74 New Oxford Street, while the latter (is.Qd. each, 15*. per dozen) are sold by J. Gerson, 5 Rathbone Place, Oxford Street. Admission to the Gallery, see p. 78. — Thursday and Friday are students' days. The Gallery is closed for cleaning on the Thurs- day, Friday, and Saturday before Easter Sunday. Sticks and um- brellas are left at the entrance (no charge). The pictures are arranged in schools , with as close adherence as possible to a chronological order. The main staircase facing us as we enter ascends to Room I., in which begins the series of Italian works. The staircase to the left leads to the Modern British Schools ; that on the right to the Older British and the French Schools. The Hall contains a marble statue of Sir David "Wilkie (d. 1841), with his palette let into the pedestal, hy Joseph ; busts of the paint- ers W. Mulready (d. 1863) and Th. Stothard (d. 1834), by Weekes; and busts of Samuel Johnson (by Baity, after Nollekens'), Canning (also by Baily, after Nollekens'), Bewick (by Gibson), and Newton (by Baily, after Roubiliac). On the walls are two large landscapes with cattle by James Ward, the Battle of the Borodino by Jones, a forest-scene by Salvator Rosa, and a cast of a bust of Mantegna by Sperandio. At the top of the staircase to the right are busts of Wellington by Nollekens and Scott by Chantrey; at the foot, busts of Marquis Wellesley by Bacon and Grace Darling by Dunbar. To the left is a staircase descending to a room containing wafer-colours by 2>e Wint, Cattermole, etc., crayon studies by Gainsborough, drawings by Wm. Blake, etc. In another room are Watercolour Drawings from paint- ings by early Italian and other masters, published and lent by theArundel Society. Other rooms contain copies of paintings by Velazquez at Madrid and by Rembrandt at St. Petersburg. To the right is a flight of steps (with a bronze bust of Napoleon at the top) desceoding to the collection of Turner'' s Water- Colours (catalogue by Ruskin, Is.). Another room, through which we pass to reach the Turner Collection, contains sev- eral paintings belonging J f to the National Portrait Gallery (p. 132). Among these are two large paint- ings : The House of Com- mons in 1793, by Karl Anton Hickel (presented by the Emp. of Austria in 1885), and a fine 'Work 154 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. by Marcus Oheeraedts, representing a group of eleven statesmen, assembled at Somerset House in 1604 to ratify a commercial treaty between England, Spain, and the Netherlands. Among the single portraits, which include specimens of Lelp, Gainsborough, Bobson, Richmond, and others, is one of George Washington, by Oilbert Stuart. The Vestibule of the Main Staircase is roofed "by a glass dome and embellislied with marble columns and panelling, of green 'cipollino', 'giallo aiitico', 'pavonazzetto', etc. Here are hung several large paintings of the British School. To the left (W.) : 1372. John J. Halls, Admiral Sir George Cockburn ; 789. Thomas Gainsborough (one of the most eminent of English portrait-painters ; d. 1788), Family group ; 1146. Sir Henry Eaebiirn (Scottish School; d. 1823), Portrait of a lady; 308. Gainsborough, Musidora (from Thomson's 'Summer'); 1228. Fuseli(d. 1825), Titania and Bottom ; 1394. Ford Madox Brown, Christ washing Peter's feet. To the right (E.): 1396. i^omney. Portraits; *143. JSei/noZds, Equestrian portrait of Lord Ligonier; 681. Reynolds, Capt. Orme; 684. Gainsborough, Dr. Schomberg; 144. Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 1830), Benjamin West, the painter; 677. Sir Martin Shee (d. 1850), Portrait of the actor Lewis as the Marquis in the 'Midnight Hour'. — In the North Vestibule (see Plan) are : in the centre, an antique head of the Dying Alexander, in porphyry; to the right, three frescoes (Nos.766, 767, 1215) by Domenico Veneziano (d. 1461), and an Angel adoring (No. 927), by Fil. Lippi; to the left, three fragments of frescoes (Nos. 1216-1216b) by Spinello Aretino (Tuscan School; d. 1410), and eleven interesting Greek portraits of the 2nd and 3rd cent, from mummies found in the Fayoum. [A mummy with a portrait of this kind may be seen at the British Museum; p. 258.] Room I., lighted from above, is devoted to the Florentine School. — To the left: 248. Fil. Lippi, Vision of St. Bernard; 1150. Attributed to Pontormo [Carucci; d. 1557), Portrait; *592. Ascribed to Filippino Lippi, Adoration of the Magi, in the manner of Botticelli-^ 17. A. del Sarto (school-piece), Holy Family; *1282. Jacopo Chimenti da Empoli (1554-1640), San Zenobio restoring a dead child to life; 1143. Ridolfo Ghirlandajo (son of the more famous Domenico Ghirlandajo ; 1483-1561), Christ on the way to Golgotha ; 809. In the manner of Michael Angela, Madonna and In- fant Christ , with John the Baptist and angels (unfinished) ; 727. Pesellino (d. 1457), Trinita; 790. Michael Angela Buonarotti (1475- 1564), Entombment (unfinished and youthful work; in tempera, on wood). *296. School of Verrochio , Virgin adoring the Infant Christ, with angels. This painting is executed with great carefulness, but the conception of the forms and proportions is hardly worthy of a master of the first rank, such as Verrocchio, to whom some critics assign the work. 1323. Bronzino, Piero de' Medici; 1194. Marcello Venusti (follower of Michael Angelo ; d. ca. 1570), Jesus expelling the money-changers from the Temple; S. Aftei Michael Angelo, A dream 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 155 of human life; *593. Lorenzo di Credi (Florence, pupil of Ver- roccMo at the same time as Leonardo da Vinci ; d. 1537), Madonna and Child. — *292. Pollajuolo, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian. This picture was painted in 1475 for the altar of the Pucci chapel, in the church of San Sebastiano de' Servi at Florence, and according to Vasari is the artisfs masterpiece. The head of the saint, which is of great beauty, is the portrait of a Capponi. 648. Credi, Virgin adoring the Infant (in his hest style); 781. School of Verrocchio, The archangel Raphael and Tobias; *293. Fi- lippino Lippi (pupil of Botticelli ; d. 1504), Madonna and Child, with SS. Jerome and Dominic, an altar-piece with predella (rich landscape); 1035. Francidbigio (d. 1524), A Knight of Malta. 1181. Pontormo, Joseph and his Brethren; according to Vasari. the boy seated on the steps, with a basket, is a portrait of Bronzino. 650. Brcnzino, Portrait; 1124. i^i7ij?;)mo Lippi (school-piece), Adoration of the Magi. *1093. Ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci (1462-1519), Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, resembling 'La Vierge aux Rochers' in the Louvre, bought from the Earl of Suffolk in 1881 for 9000i. 670. Bronzino, Knight of St. Stephen; 649. Ascribed to Pon- tormo, Portrait of a boy, in the style of Bronzino (probably a youth- ful work of the latter) ; *690. Andrea del Sarto (the greatest master of the school; 1486-1531), Portrait, a masterpiece of chiaroscuro; 698. Piero di Cosimo (pupil of Cosimo Rosselli and teacher of A. del Sarto; d. ca. 1521), Death of Procris, in a beautiful landscape. — 651. Bronzino, Venus, Cupid, Folly, and Time, an allegory. 'Bronzino painted a picture of remarkable beauty, which was sent into France to King Francis. In this picture was pourtrayed a naked Venus together with Cupid, who was kissing her. On the one side were Pleasure and Mirth, with other Powers of Love, and on the other Deceit, Jealousy, and other Passions of Love.' — Vasari. *915. Sandro Botticelli (A. 1510), Mars and Venus; 895. Piero di Cosimo, Portrait of a warrior; 589. School of Fra Filippo Lippi, Madonna and Child, with an angel. On a Scbeen: 275. School of Botticelli, Madonna and Child, a circular picture in a fine old frame; 928. Pollajuolo, Apollo and Daphne. Boom II. SiENESE AKD OTHER Tuscan Masteks. To the left : 246. Oirolamo del Pacchia (d. after 1535), Madonna and Child; 591. Benozzo Oozzoli (school-piece) , Rape of Helen ; Duccio di Buoninsegna (founder of the school of Siena ; d. about 1339), 1140. Christ healing the blind, 1139. Annunciation; 1317. Early Sienese School, Marriage of the Virgin; 1199. Florentine School of the 1 5th cent. , Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel ; 218. Baldassare Perwzzi (Siena; d. 1537), Adoration of the Magi; 1331. Bernardino Fungai (d. 1516), Virgin and Child surrounded by cherubim ; 227. Rosselli (school-piece) , Various saints (names 156 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. on the original frame). — 283. Benozzo Gozzoli (pupil, of Fra Angelico; d. 1493), Virgin and Child enthroned, with saints. 'The original contract for this picture , dated 23d Oct. 1461 , is still preserved. The figure of the Virgin is in this contract specially directed to be made similar in mode, form, and ornaments to the Virgin En- throned, in the picture over the high-altar of San Marco, Florence, by Fra Giovanni (Angelico) da Fiesole, and now in the Academy there'. — Catalogue. *663. Fra Angelico da Fiesole (d. 1455), Christ with the banner of the Resurrection, surrounded by a crowd of saints, martyrs, and Dominicans, 'so beautiful', says Vasari, 'that they appear to be truly beings of Paradise'; 586. Ascribed to Fra Filippo Lippi, Madonna enthroned. — *566. Duccio di Buoninsegna, Madonna and Child. 'A genuine picture, which illustrates how well the master could vivify Byzantine forms with tender feeling". 582. Fra Angelico (school-piece). The Magi ; 1155. Matteo di Giovanni da Siena (d. 1493) , Assumption , the Virgin throwing down her girdle as a proof to the incredulous St. Thomas ; 1330. Buoninsegna^ Transfiguration; 1147. Ambr og io Lorenzetti (Siensk] d. ca. 1348) , Heads of saints (a fragment of a fresco); 909. Ben- venuto da Siena (c. 1520), Madonna and Child. Room III. Florentine Schools. To the left : 782. Botticelli, (school-piece), Madonna and Child; *666. Fra Filippo Lippi (d. 1496), Annunciation, painted like No. 667 for Cosimo de' Medici and marked with his crest ; 598. Filippino Lippi (?) , St. Francis in glory; 916. BofficeZfi (school-piece), Venus and Cupid ; *583. Paolo Uccello (d. 1479), Cavalry engagement at S. Egidio (1416), one of the earliest Florentine representations of a secular subject; 1196. Tuscan School, Amor and Castitas; 1230. Domenico del Ohir- landajo (1449-94), Portrait of a lady ; 1033. Filippino Lippi (more probably Botticelli; comp. No. 592), Adoration of the Magi; 626. Botticelli^ Young man ; no number, *Dom. Ghirlandajo, Portrait of a lady ('the lovely Benci' of Longfellow ; lent by Mr. Henry Willett). H03L Botticelli , The Nativity, to the left the Magi , to the right the Shepherds, in front shepherds embraced by angels. The subject is conceived in a manner highly mystical and symbolical. At the top of the picture is a Greek inscription to the following effect : 'This picture I, Alessandro, painted at the end of the year 1500, in the (troubles) of Italy in the half-time after the time during the fulfilment of the eleventh of St. John in the second woe of the Apocalypse, in the loosing of the devil for three years and a half. Afterwards he shall be chained and vs^e shall see him trodden down as in this picture". 1299. Dom, Ghirlandajo (?) , Portrait of a youth (school-piece, much restored). — 1126. Botticelli, Assumption of the Virgin. In the centre of the upper part of the picture is the Virgin, kneeling before the Saviour, while around are cycles or tiers of angels, apostles, saints, and seraphim. Below are the apostles gathered round the tomb of the Virgin, with portraits of the Palmieri, the donors of the altar- piece. The picture was probably executed by a pupil from a cartoon by Botticelli. In the background are Florence and Fiesole, with the Villa Palmieri. *667. Fra Filippo Lippi, SS. John the Baptist, Francis, Lawrence, 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 157 Cosmas , Damianus , Anthony , and Peter the Martyr, sitting on a marble "beucli (painted for Cosimo de' Medici, 1266-1336); 226. School of Botticelli, Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and angels, with a rose-hedge in the background; 1301. Florentine School, Head of Savonarola. Boom IV. Early Italian School. The pictures in this room are mainly of historical interest. Neither Giotto (1266-1336), the chief founder of Italian painting, nor his pupils are represented by authen- ticated works, but there are several fine works of the 14th century. 'The early efforts of Cimabue and Giotto are the burning messages of prophecy, delivered by the stammering lips of infants'. — Ruskin. To the left: School of Taddeo Gaddi (d. after 1366), 215, 216. Saints. 594. Emmanuel (Greek priest ; Byzantine School), SS. Cosmas and Damianus (one of the earliest pictures in the Gal- lery in point of artistic development) ; 573-575. Andrea Orcagna (Florentine School ; d. 1376), Three small pictures belonging to the large altar-piece. No. 569 ; 276. Ascribed to Giotto (d. 1336), Heads of Apostles; 569. Orcagna, Coronation of the Yirgin, with saints (large altar-piece from the church of San Pietro Maggiore in Flor- ence ; school-piece) ; 701. Justus of Padua (School of Giotto ; d. 1400), Coronation of the Virgin, dated 1367 (a small triptych, of cheerful, soft, and well-blended colouring) ; 567. Segna di Buena- ventura (Sienese School; ca. 1310), Christ on the Cross; 576-578. Orcagna, Three other pictures belonging to No. 569; 580a, 579 a. Terminal panels of 580 and 579 (see below); 568. School of Giotto (ca. 1330), Coronation of the Virgin ; 579. School of Taddeo Gaddi, Baptism of Christ ; 565. Giov. Cimabue (b. 1240 ; Tuscan School), Madonna and Child enthroned ; 581. Spinello Aretino, John the Bap- tist, with SS. John the Evangelist and James the Less; 564. Mar- garitone (d. 1293), Virgin and Child, with scenes from the lives of the saints ; 570-572. Orcagna, Trinity, with angels adoring, be- longing to No. 569; 1406. Fra Angelica (school-piece). Annun- ciation ; 580. Jacopo di Casentino (d. ca. 1390), St. John the Evan- gelist lifted up into Heaven. Boom V. Schools of Ferraba and Bologna. To the left : Cosimo Tura (Ferrara ; 1420-98), 773. St. Jerome in the wilderness ; 772. Madonna and Child, with angels; 597. Fr. Cossa (end of 15th cent.), St. Hyacinth; 82. Mazzolino da Ferrara (1480-1528), Holy Family. — *1119. Ercole di Giulio Grandi (Ferrara; d. 1531), Ma- donna enthroned , with John the Baptist and St. William ; the throne is adorned with sculptural panels (a masterpiece). — Btn- venuto Tisio, surnamed Garofalo (d. 1559), *81. Vision of St. Au- gustine; 170. Holy Family; *671. Madonna and Child enthroned, surrounded by SS. William, Clara, Francis, and Anthony (altar- pieces, destitute of the charm of colouring seen in his smaller works). — 590. Marco Zoppo, Dead Christ, with John the Baptist and Joseph of Arimathea ; 770. Giovanni Oriole (Ferrara ; d. after 158 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 1461), Leonello d'Este, Marqnis of Ferrara (d.l450); 1127. Ercole di Roberto Orandi (d. before 1513), Last Supper; 638. Fr. Francia, Madonna and Child, with saints ; *629. Lorenzo Costa [teacher of Franoia; d. 1535), Madonna enthroned, dated 1505. Francesco Francia {Raibolini, early school of Bologna, also a goldsmith; d. 1517), 638. Madonna and Child with two saints, 179. Virgin enthroned and St. Anne, *180. Pietk (the lunette of No. 179). These two pictures are the finest specimens of the school in the col- lection. 771. Bono di Ferrara (15th cent.), St. Jerome in the desert; 169. Mazzolino (Ferrara; d. 1530), Holy Family; 752. Dalmasio (end of the 14th cent.). Madonna and Child; 641. Mazzolino, The Woman taken in adultery; 669. OrfoZano (Ferrara ; d. ca. 1525), SS. Sebastian, Rochus, and Demetrius; 1234. Dosso Dossi{^), Al- legorical group ; 1217. Ercole di Roberto Grandi, Israelites gather- ing manna. RoomVI. Umbeian ScHooii. To the left: 912-914. Pinturicchio (Umbrian school-piece). Illustrations of the story of Griselda (the last in Boccaccio's Decameron). Melozzo da Forli (d. 1494), 756. Music, 755. Rhetoric (similar representations at Berlin); 1304. Umbrian School (16th cent.), Marcus Curtius(?); 703. Bernardino Pinturicchio (d. 1513), Ma- donna and Child; 1103. Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (end of 15th cent.), Madonna and saints (lucid colouring) ; 249. Lorenzo da San Seve- rino (second half of the 15th cent.), Marriage of St. Catharine; 769. Fra Carnovale (ca. 1480), St. Michael and the serpent; 1107. Niccolb da Foligno {Alunno ; end of the 15th cent.). The Passion, a triptych; 1051. Umbrian School, Our Lord, St. Thomas, and St. Anthony of Padua, the Donor kneeling to the right; 929. After Raphael, Madonna and Child, old copy of the Bridgewater Ma- donna; *288. Perugino (Pietro Vannucci, the master of Raphael ; d. 1523), Madonna adoring the Infant, with the archangel Michael on the left and Raphael with Tobias on the right (a masterpiece) ; QQ3. Pinturicchio, St. Catharine of Alexandria; 1220. Vlngegno, Madonna and Child; 1032. Lo Spagna, Agony in the Garden. **2iS. Raphael (Sanzio ; 1483-1520), Vision of a knight (a youth- ful work, as fine in its execution as it is tender in its conception). This little gem reveals the influence of Eaphaers early master Ti- moteo Viti, without a trace of the later manner learned from Perugino. The original *Cartoon hangs beneath. 'Two allegorical female figures, representing respectively the noble ambitions and the joys of life, appear to a young knight lying asleep beneath a laurel, and offer him his choice of glory or pleasure". — Passavant. **1171. Raphael, Mdidonna, degli Ansidei, bought from the Duke of Marlborough in 1884 for 70,000^., the largest sum ever given for a picture. This Holy Family was painted by Raphael in 1506 for the chapel of the Ansidei family in the Servite church at Perugia. In 1764 it was 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 159 purchased by Lord Robert Spencer, brother of the third Duke of Marl- borough. The two figures flanking the Virgin are those of John the Baptist and St. Nicholas of Bari , the latter represented in his epis- copal robes. The small round loaves at his feet refer to his rescue of the town of Myra from famine. In the background is a view of the Tuscan hills. From the canopy hangs a rosary. — This great work, the moat important example of Raphael in the country, was executed under the influence of Perugino and is in admirable preservation. *744. Raphael, Madonna, Infant Christ, and St. John (the 'Aldobrandini' or 'Garvagh Madonna']. 'The whole has a delicate, harmonious effect. The flesh, which is yellowish in the lights, and lightish brown in the shadows, agrees ex- tremely well with the pale broken rose-colour of the under garment, and the delicate bluish grey of the upper garment of the Virgin. In the seams and glories gold is used, though very delicately. The execution is particularly careful, and it is in an excellent state of preservation". — Waagen, ^Treasures of Art in Great Britain'. This work belongs to Raphael's later period, and some authorities be- lieve he painted it with the aid of his pupils. *168. Raphael, St. Catharine of Alexandria, painted in the master's Florentine period. 'In form and feeling no picture of the master approaches nearer to it than the Entombment in the Borghese Palace, which is inscribed 1507.'' — W. 181. Perugino, Madonna and Child; 751. Giovanni 8anti{\]m- brian painter and poet, Raphael's father ; d. 1494) , Madonna ; *1075. Perugino, Virgin and Child, -with SS. Jerome and Francis (of the artist's later period ; 27. Raphael, Pope Julius II. (an old copy of the original in Florence) ; 596. Palmezzano (pupil of Me- lozzo; d. after 1537), Entombment. Signorelli (d. 1523), *1128. Circumcision, a dramatic composition (the figure of the child has been altered by repainting); 1133. Adoration of the Holy Child (school-piece?). 646, 647. Unknown (15th cent.) , St. Catharine, St. Ursula ; 908. Piero della Francesca (ca. 1460), Nativity (injured) ; 911. Pinturicchio, Return of Ulysses, or Lucretia and Collatinus (fresco from Siena, about 1509); 1218, 1219. Francesco Ubertini, surnamed Bacchiacca (Florence; d. 1557), History of Joseph; 758. Ascribed to P. della Francesca (?), Portrait of a lady. Piero della Francesco, 665. Baptism of Christ; 585. Portrait. 910. Ascribed to Signorelli (more probably by Genga da TJrhino), Triumph of Chas- tity, a fresco ; 282. Lo Spagna (? more probably by Bertucci of Faenza, a contemporary belonging to the Eclectic School), Madonna and Child enthroned. Temporarily placed on Screens in this room are : 1316. Moroni, Italian nobleman; 1315. Velazquez, Admiral Pulido Pareja; *1314. Holbein the Younger, The Ambassadors. These three pictures were purchased from Lord Radnor in 1890 for 55,000?. The so-called 'Ambassadors', the only example of Holbein (1497- 1543) in the Gallery, was long thought to represent Sir Thomas Wyatt (on the left) and Leland, the antiquary (on the right); but it is supposed that the figure on the left is Jean de Dinteville, French ambassador in London in 1533, and that the other is the contemporary poet Nicholas Bourbon. The curious object in the foreground is the distorted projection of a skull, as will be seen when viewed diagonally from the right. 160 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. Boom VII. Venetian and Brescian Schools. To the left: *735. P. Moranda (^Cavazzola ; the most important master in Verona before Paolo Veronese ; d. 1522), St. Rochus with the angel, an excellent specimen of his work ; *625. Moretto (Alessandro Bon- vicino, the greatest painter of Brescia; d. about 1560), Madonna and Child, with saints; Montagna (J) ^ 802, 1098. Madonna and Child; *748. Girolamo dai Libri (Verona ; d. 1556), Madonna and Child, with St. Anne, clear in colour and harmonious in tone, heralding the style of Paolo Veronese; 1023. Giambattista Moroni [portrait- painter at Bergamo, pupil of Moretto; d. 1578), Portrait of a lady. Above, P. Veronese, 1325. Respect, 1324. Scorn, 1318. Unfaithful- ness , 1326. Happy union, a series of allegorical groups from a ceil- ing decoration. *16. Tintoretto (Jacopo Robusti,YeniGe ; d. ibdA), St. George and the Dragon (an early work) ; 287. Bart. Vene- ziano (rare Venetian master, first half of the 16th cent.), Portrait, painted in 1530 (rich in colour) ; 595. Venetian School, Portrait; 26. Paolo Veronese^d. 1588), Consecration of St. Nicholas; 1041. Paolo Veron€se(;>\ St. Helena; 34. Titian {Tiziano Vecellio ; 1477-1576), Venus and Adonis (an early copy of the original in Madrid); *1022. Moroni, Nobleman; 224. Titian, The Tribute Money (school-piece). — *4. Titian, Holy Family, with adoring shepherd. This brilliantly coloured picture is an early work of the master and is painted in the manner afterwards adopted by his pupil Palma Vecchio. *1. Sebastian del Piombo (of Venice, follower of Michael Angelo ; d. 1547), Raising of Lazarus. 'The transition from death to life is expressed in Lazarus with won- derful spirit, and at the same time with perfect fidelity to Scripture. The grave-clothes, by which his face is thrown into deep shade, vividly excite the idea of the night of the grave, which but just before enveloped him; the eye looking eagerly from beneath this shade upon Christ his Redeemer, shows us, on the other hand, in the most striking contrast, the new life in its most intellectual organ. This is also expressed in the. whole figure , which is actively striving to relieve itself from the bonds in which it was fast bound'. — W. The picture was painted in 1517-19 in competition with Raphaers Transfiguration. The figure of Lazarus is quite in the spirit of Michael Angelo. 20. Sebastian del Piombo, Portraits of the painter with his seal ('piombo') of office in his hand, and Cardinal Ippolito de' Medici, painted after 1531 ; *635. Titian, Madonna and Child, with SS. John the Baptist and Catharine (the latter probably the portrait of an aristocratic lady) ; 1025. Moretto, Portrait of an Italian noble- man (1526). — *35. Titian, Bacchus and Ariadne, painted in 1523 for Alphonso, Duke of Ferrara. 'This is one of the pictures which once seen can never be forgotten .... Rich harmony of drapery tints and soft modelling, depth of shade and warm flesh all combine to produce a highly coloured glow; yet in the midst of this glow the form of Ariadne seems incomparably fair. Nature was never reproduced more kindly or with greater exuberance than it is in every part of this picture. What splendour in the contrasts of colour, what wealth and diversity of scale in air and vegetation; how infinite is the space — how varied yet mellow the gradations of light and shade!' — C. db C. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 161 24. Sebastian del Piombo, Portrait of a lady, as St. Agatha; *1031. Giovanni Girolamo Savoldo (Brescia, about 1480-1548), Mary Magdalen going to the Sepulchre (similar picture at Berlin); 816. Cima da Coneglian o (Yenice, contemporary of Bellini; d. 1503), Christ appearing to St. Thomas; 1309. Bernardino Licinio (Venice; flor. 1524-44), Portrait of a young man; 599. Basaiti{;T), Infant Christ asleep in the lap of the Virgin, with a pleasing landscape in the background (a good work of the school of Giov. Bellini); 234. Catena (Treviso , d. 1531 at Venice; a follower of Giov. Bellini), Warrior adoring the Infant Christ; 932. Italian School^ Portrait of a man; 1203. Giovanni Busi , surnamed Cariani (pupil of Palma Vecchio; d. ca. 1541), Madonna with saints. *270. Titian, Christ and Mary Magdalen after the Resurrection ('Noli me tangere'). A youthful work of the master. The slenderness of the figures, which are conceived in a dignified but somewhat mundane spirit, and the style of the landscape reveal the influence of Giorgione. *697. Moroni, Portrait of a tailor ('Tagliapanni'), a masterpiece praised by contemporary poets; 277. Jacopo Bassano {Jacopo da Ponte; d. 1592), Good Samaritan. 632, 633. Girolamo da Santacroce (Venetian School; about 1530), Saints; 623. Girolamo da Treviso (a follower of Raphael; d. 1544), Madonna and Child (mentioned by Vasari as the painter's masterpiece); 636. Palma Vecchio (d. 1528; pupil of Titian), Portrait of Ariosto. *280. Giovanni Bellini, often shortened into Giambellino (1430- 1516; the greatest Venetian painter of the 15th cent., described by Mr. Ruskin as 'the mighty Venetian master who alone of all the painters of Italy united purity of religious aim with perfection of artistical power'). Madonna of the Pomegranate. *300. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child ; 1105. Lorenzo Lotto, The apostolic prothonotary Juliano ; *777. Paolo Moranda, Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, a master- piece of this 'Raphael of Verona' ; 1123. Venetian School {i%t\i. cent.), Venus and Adonis ; 750. Vittore Carpaccio (Venice, contemporary of Giov. Bellini; d. after 1522), Madonna and Child , with the Doge Giovanni Mocenigo in adoration; 699. Lotto, Portraits of Agostino and Niccolo della Torre (1515); 7 A2. Moroni, Lawyer; 1202. Bonifacio Veronese [d. 1540), Madonna and Child, with saints ; 1213. Gentile Bellini (d. 1507), Portrait of a mathematician; *268. Paolo Veronese, Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1573 for the church of St. Sylvester at Venice. Giovanni Bellini, *726. Christ in Gethsemane, an early work revealing the influence of Mantegna, who has treated the same subject (see No. 1417) ; 812. Death of St. Peter Martyr (a late work). 694. Catena, St. Jerome in his study ; 1130. Ascribed to Tintoretto, Christ washing the feet of his dis- ciples; 3. Titian, Concert (an early work); *1 047. Xof<o, Family group; *222. Moretto , Count Sciarra Martinengo Cesaresco; 674. Baedeker. London. 9th Edit. IX 162 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. Paris Bordone (Treviso, cele"brated for his female portraits; d. loTl"), A lady of Genoa. 1313. Tintoretto, Origin of the Milky Way, from the decoration of a ceiling. Jupiter, descending through the air, bears the infant Hercules towards Juno , while the milk escaiing from the breasts of the goddess resolves itself into the constellation known as the Via Lactea or Milky Way. *294. Paolo Veronese, Family of Darius at the feet of Alexander the Great, bought for 13,650^. 'In excellent condition ; perhaps the only existing criterion by which to estimate the genuine original colouring of Paul Veronese. It is re- markable how entirely the genius of the painter precludes criticism on the quaintness of the treatment. Both the incident and the personages are, as in a Spanish play, romantically travestied". — Rumohr (MS. notes). Mr. Ruskin calls this picture 'the most precious Paul Veronese in the world' . . . 'The possession of the Pisani Veronese will happily enable the English public and the English artist to convince themselves how sincer- ity and simplicity in statements of fact, power of draughtmanship , and joy in colour, were associated in a perfect balance in the great workmen in Venice'. 1024. Moroni, Italian ecclesiastic; 32. School of Titian, Rape of Ganymede; 1377. Giovanni Girolamo Savoldo, Adoration of the Shepherds; 173. Bassano, Portrait of a nobleman ; 637. Paris Bor- done, Daphnis and Chloe; *297. II Eomanino (^Oirolamo Romania Brescia, a rival of Moretto; d. 1560), Nativity (an altar-piece in five compartments). On ScBBENs: 631. Francesco Bissolo (d. about 1530), Portrait of a woman; 1310. School of Bellini, Ecce Homo; ISQ. Bonsig- norj (Verona; d. 1519), Portrait of a senator, dated 1487; 1173. School of Oiorgione, Subject unknown; 634. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child. *269. After Giorgione {Giorgio Barbarelli, a fellow-pupil of Titian under Giov. Bellini; d. 1511), Knight in armour. A slightly altered and admirable repetition of the knight in Giorgione's altar-piece at Castelfranco. Mr. Ruskin speaks of the original altar-piece at Castelfranco as one of the two best pictures in the world. 776. Vittore Pisano of Verona, often called Vittore Pisanello (founder of the Veronese school, painter and medallist; d. 1451). SS. Anthony and George, with a vision of the Virgin and Child in a glory above. In the frame are inserted casts of two of Pisano's medals. The one above represents Leonello d'Este, his patron; the other, the painter himself. *281. Marco Basaiti (Venetian School; ca. 1520), St. Jerome reading; 695. Andrea Previtali (d. 1528), Monk adoring the Holy Child. *189. Giov. Bellini, The Doge Leonardo Loredano. This masterly portrait is remarkable alike for its drawing, its colour- ing, and its expression of character. Loredano, who held office from 1501 to 1521, was i^ne of the most powerful of the Venetian Doges. His face is that <)f a born ruler — 'fearless, faithful, patient, impenetrable, im- placable — every word a fate' (Ruskin). 808. Giovanni or Gentile Bellini, St. Peter Martyr (with very delicate gradations in the flesh tones) ; 97. School of P. Veronese, 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 163 Rape of Eurupa; 1121. Venetian School (lotli cent.), Portrait of a young man. Ascribed to Francesco Mantegna (son and pupil of Andrea; b. about 1470), 1106. Resurrection of Christ ; 1381. Holy Women at the Sepulchre ; 639. Christ and Mary Magdalen in the Garden. 1160. Venetian School of the 15th cent., Adoration of the Magi; 1120, Cima da Conegliano, St. Jerome in the -wilderness (on panel). 673. Antonello da Messina (said to have imported painting in oil from Flanders into Italy; d. after 1493), Salvator Mundi, 1465. 'The earliest of his pictures which we now possess. It is a solemn but not an elevated mask; half Flemish, half Italian". — C. <£• C. 1141. Antonello da Messina, Portrait of a young man (painted in 1474); 1166. Crucifixion (in a mountainous landscape). 1298. Flemish Master, Mountain scene; 1239, 1240. Girolamo Mocetto (Venice, painter and engraver; ca. 1490-1515), Massacre of the Innocents; 1233. Giovanni Bellini, Blood of the Redeemer (an early , symbolical -vrork , recalling the fancies of mediaeval mysti- cism); 1298. Venetian School, Landscape (in a fine old frame). Boom VIII. Paduan and Early Venetian Schools. To the left: Carlo Crivelli (d. ca. 1495; Venice), 602. Dead Christ sup- ported by angels; 907. SS. Catharine and Mary Magdalen; 739. Annunciation, dated 1486 (the heads are pleasing and the motions graceful); 788. Madonna and saints (large altar-piece in 13 sec- tions, painted in 1476). *724. Carlo Crivelli, Madonna and Child with SS. Jerome and Sebastian. This picture is known, from the swallow introduced, as the 'Madonna della rondine'. 'It may be said of the predella, which represents St. Catharine, St. Jerome in the wilderness, the Nativity of our Lord, the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, and St. George and the Dragon, that Crivelli never con- centrated so much power on any small composition". — C. <£• C. 749. Niccolo Giolfino (Verona; ca. 1465-1520), Portraits; 906. Crivelli, Madonna in prayer ; 904. Gregorio Schiavone (the 'Slavo- nian', a native of Dalmatia; ca. 1470), Madonna and Child; 284. Bartolommeo Vivarini (Venice; end of the 15th cent.), Virgin and Child, with SS. Paul and Jerome; 1145. Andrea Mantegna (d. 1606; School of Padua), Samson and Delilah (on the tree is carved the motto 'foemina diabolo tribus assibus est mala peior') ; 807. Crivelli, Madonna and Child enthroned; 803. Marco Marziale (Venetian painter; flourished ca. 1490-1510), The Circumcision (1500), with fine portrait-heads ; 1417. Mantegna, The Agony in the Garden , an early work, from the Northbrook Gallery (compare No. 726, by Bellini) ; 804. Marco Marziale , Madonna and Child (1507); Antonio Vivarini, 768. SS. Peter and Jerome, 1284. SS. Francis and Mark. *902. Andrea Mantegna , Triumph of Scipio, or the reception of the Phrygian mother of the gods (Cybele) among the publicly recognised divinities of Rome. 11 164 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. In obedience to the Delphic oracle, the 'worthiest man in Eoine'' wa selected to receive the goddess , and the choice fell upon Publius Corne- lius Scipio Nasica (B.C. 204). The picture was painted for a Venetian nobleman, Francesco Cornara, whose family claimed to be descended from the Eoman gens Cornelia. It was finished in 1506, a few months before the painter's death, and is 'a tempera', in chiaroscuro. It is not so im- portant a work of Mantegna as the series at Hampton Court (p. 332), but also exhibits Mantegna's wonderfal feeling for the antique and his share in 'that sincere passion for the ancient world which was the dominating intellectual impulse of his age.' 1125. Ascribed to Mantegna^ Two allegorical figures of the Sea- sons, in grisaille ; *274. A. Mantegna, Virgin and Child, with St. John the Baptist and the Magdalen (conscientiously minute in execution and of plastic distinctness in the ontlines); 668. Cri- vclli, The Beato Ferretti. Central Octagon. Various Schools. To the left : 778. Martino da Ldine, surnamed Pellegrino da San Daniele (Friuli , pupil of Bellini; about 1540), Madonna and Child; 1135, 1136. Veronese School (15th cent.), Legend of Trajan and the widow; 1211, 1212. Dom. il/orone(d. ca. 1508), Fetes at the wedding of Gianfraneesco IL Gonzaga and Isabella d'Este; 1214. Michele daVerona (^d. after 1528), Coriolanus meeting Volumnia and Veturia; ii02. Pietro Longhi (Venetian genre-painter , sometimes called the 'Italian Hogarth' ; 1702-1762), Andrea Tron, procurator of the church of St. Mark ; 41. Ascribed to Bust (Cariani), Death of Peter Martyr; 1241. Pedro Campana (a native of Flanders, who studied in Italy and executed his best work in Seville; d. at Brussels in 1570 or 1580), Mary Magdalen led by Martha to hear the preaching of Christ (executed in Venice for Cardinal Grimani); 1241. Pedro Campana, Christ preaching; 272. Unknown Italian Master, An Apostle; 931. Vero- nese, The Magdalen laying aside her jewels. On a Stand : 630. Andrea Schiavone, Madonna and Child en- throned, with saints. A number of paintings, chiefly recent acquisitions , are tem- porarily hung in this room, some on screens. Among these are: Duyster, 1387. Players at backgammon, 1386. Soldiers quarrelling; 1002. Walscnppelle, and 1001. Jan van Huysum, Flowers; 285. Francesco iJiorone (early Veronese painter; d. 1529), Madonna and Child; 1395. G. Terburg , Portrait; 1397. Jan van Aacli (_'}), Old woman sewing; 202. Breenberg, Finding of Moses. Also landscapes by S. van Ruysdael (No. 1344), Roghman (1340), Dekker (1341), Nic. Berchem (78). J. van Ruysdael (746,44), Wouwermnn (1345), A. van de Velde (1348), J. deWet (1342), Avercajn^ (1340), 1. van 08tade{idl7y M. Ryckaert (1353), F. de Moucheron (1352). Also, B. Fabritius, 1339. Nativity of St. John, 1338. Adoration of the Shepherds; 1320. 1321. Corn. Janssens, Portraits; 1343. Unknown Artist, Amsterdam Musketeers on parade ; 1336. Liberale da Vero- na, Death of Dido. In the centre of the Octagon is a piece of sculpture by Gibson (d. 1506), representing Hylas and the nymphs. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 165 Boom IX., adjoining Room VII. Lombakd Schools. To the left : 806. Boccaccio Boccaccino (Cremona ; d. after 1518), Procession to Calvary. Amhrogio Borgognone (arcMtect and painter, Milanese School; ca. 1455-1523), 1410. Virgin and Child; 1077. Christ bearing the Cross , Virgin and Child , Agony in Gethsemane , a triptych , one of the master's earlier works ; 298. Marriage of St. Catharine of Alexandria, to the right St. Catharine of Siena. 286. Francesco Tacconi (Cremona; d. after 1490), Virgin and Child enthroned (the only signed work of this master extant); 729. Vin- cenzo Foppa (d. 1492), Adoration of the Magi; 700. Lanini (d. ca. 1578), Holy Family, with Mary Magdalen, Pope Gregory, and St. Paul (dated 1543); *18. Bernardino Luini (of Milan, pupil of Leonardo da Vinci), Christ disputing with the Doctors ; 1052. Lom- bard School, Portrait of a young man; *15. Correggio (Antonio Allegri; d. 1534), Ecce Homo; *23. Correggio, 'La Madonna della Cesta', or 'La Vierge au Panier' ; 33. Parmigiano [Francesco Maria Mazzola; d. 1540), Vision of St. Jerome; 76. After Correggio, Christ's Agony in the Garden; 1300. Milanese School, Virgin and Child. — *10. Correggio, Mercury instructing Cupid in the pre- sence of Venus, of the master's latest period. This picture has passed through the hands of numerous owners, chiefly of royal blood. It was bought by Charles I. of England with the rest of the Duke of Mantua's collection in 1630. From England it passed to Spain, Xaples, and then to Vienna, where it was purchased by the Marquis of Londonderry, who sold it to the National Gallery. It has suffered considerable damage during its wanderings. Mr. Euskin, who describes Correggio as 'the captain of the painter's art as such, the mastev of the art of laying colour so aa to be lovely', couples this picture with Titian's Bacchus (p. 161), as one of the two paintings in the Gallery he would last part with. *1144. Oiov. Antonio Bazzi, surnamed Sodoma (Siena, pupil of Leon, da Vinci; d. 1549), Madonna and Child, with St. Catharine of Siena, St. Peter, and a monk. Andrea da Solaria (Milan; d. after 1515), *923. Venetian senator (recalling Anton, da Messina), *734. Portrait, a work of much power and finish (1505). 1201, 1200. Macrino d'Alha (ca. 1500), Saints; 779, 780. Ambrogio Borgognone, Family portraits, painted on two fragments of a silken standard, attached to wood; *728. Giov. Ant. Boltraffio (pupil of Leonardo at Milan; d. 1516), Madonna and Child (an effective, though simple and quiet composition, suffused in a cool light) ; 1152. Martino Piazza (16th cent.), John the Baptist; 1149. Marco da Oggionno (Milanese School, pupil of Leonardo; d. 1549), Ma- donna and Child; 219. Lombard School (16th cent.). Dead Christ. 753. Altobello Melone (Cremona; 15th cent.), Christ and the Dis- ciples on the way to Emmaus. Visitors who wish to make an unbroken survey of Italian art should now pass on to R. XIII (p. 175), containing works of the later Italian schools. Eoom X. Dutch and Flemish Schools. Besides works of Rubens and Van Dyek, the chiefs of the Flemish school of the 166 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 17th cent., this room coutaius good examples of Rembrandt, their great Dutch contemporary , principally of his later period. His pupils, Nicolas Maas or Maes and Pieter de Hooghe, are also well represented. The small pictures by Flemish masters of the 15th cent. , though neither usually of the first class , nor always to be attributed to the painters whose names they bear, are yet of great interest, as affording a varied survey of the realistic manner of the school. To the left: 202. Melchior d'Hondecoeter (animal - painter at Utrecht; d. 1695), Poultry ('this cock was Hondecoeter's favourite bird, which he is said to have taught to stand to him in a fixed position as a modeV) ; *1248. Bart, van der Heist (one of the best Dutch portrait-painters; b. at Haarlem in 1611 or 1612; d. 1670), Portrait of a girl (dated 1645); 240. Nicholas Berchem (Haarlem; 1620-1683), Crossing the ford. W. van de Velde (Amsterdam, the greatest of marine-painters, in the service of Charles II. ; 1633- 1707), 149. Calm; 150. Blowing fresh. 140. Bart, van der Heist (d. 1670), Portrait of a lady; *775. Rembrandt van Ryn (Harmeni<z or Hermanszoon , Amsterdam; 1607-69), Old lady (1634); 1311. J. Beerstraaten, Winter-scene, with castle ; 239. Van der Neer (d. ca. 1690; Amsterdam), River by moonlight; 237 . Rembrundt, Por- trait of a woman (one of his latest works, dated 1666) ; 1252. Frans Snyders (animal and fruit painter; Antwerp, 1579-1657), Fruit; 1222. Hondecoeter , Foliage, birds, and insects; 1015. Jan van Os (1744-1808), Still-life; 954. Cornc^is ^Tuysmam (1648-1727; Ma- lines and Antwerp), Landscape; 203. G. van Herp , Conventual charity; *53. Albert Cuyp (J) out] 1605-91), Landscape with cattle and figures (with masterly treatment of light and great transparency of shadow); 981. W. vande Velde, Storm at sea; 1168. Van der Vliet (Delft; d. 1642), Portrait of a Jesuit; 38. Peter PaulRubens (Ant- werp; 1577-1640), Rape of the Sabine women; 152. Van der Neer, Evening scene, with figures and cattle by Cuyp, whose name is in- scribed on the pail. *672. Rembrandt, His own portrait (1640). 'If Rembrandt has often chosen to represent himself in more or less eccentric costumes, he has here preferred to pose as a man of quiet and dignified simplicity .... The portrait is admirable in design and tone. A delicate and warm light shines from above on part of the forehead, cheek , and nose , and imparts a golden hue to the shirt collar, while a stray beam brings the hand into like prominence. The execution is ex- cellent, the effect of light delicate and vigorous'. — Vosmaer. *243. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man, dated 1657. 'This picture is one of those darkly coloured pieces which Rembrandt meant to be strongly lighted. The head alone is in the full light, the hands are in the half-light only. The most conspicuous colours are vivid brown and red. The features, with the grey beard and moustache, though lieavily painted, are well defined, and look almost as if chiselled by the brush . while the effect is enhanced by the greenish tint of the colouring. The face, and the dark eyes in particular, are full of ani- mation. The whole work is indeed a marvel of colouring, expression, and poetry'. — Vosmaer. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 167 49. Sir Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641), Portrait; 51. Rem- brandt, Jewish merchant. *1172. Van Dyck, Charles I. mounted on a dun horse and attended by Sir Thomas Morton. This fine specimen of Van Dyck was acquired at the sale of the Blenheim Collection in 1884 for 17,500/. It was originally in Somerset House and was sold by Cromwell for 150/. The great Duke of Marl- borough discovered and bought it at Munich. 679. Ferd. Bol (pupil of Rembrandt ; d. 1681) , Astronomer (1652); *1247. Nicolas' Maes ox Maas (1632-1693; flgure-painter at Dort, a pupil of Rembrandt), The card-players (an exceedingly graphic group of life-size figures); 732. A. van der Neer, Canal scene (daylight scenes and canvases of so large a size as this were rarely executed by Van der Neer) ; 190. Rembrandt, Jewish Rabbi. — *52. Van Dyck, Portrait. This portrait is generally said to represent Gevartius, the friend of Rubens; and some authorities maintain, with great probability, that it was painted bj"^ Rubens, and not by Van Dyck. 924. Pieter Neeffs (d. ca. lOBO; Antwerp), Interior of a Gothic church; 146. A. Storck, Shipping on the Maes. — 194. Rubens, Judgment of Paris. Repetitions on a smaller scale exist in the Louvre and at Dres- den, The London picture, though possibly not painted entirely by Rubens' own hand, was certainly executed under his guidance and super- vision. 901. Jan Looten (Dutch landscape-painter in the style of Van Everdingen; d. about 1681), Landscape. — *45. Rembrandt, The Woman taken in adultery, dated 1644. 'The colouring of the 'Woman taken in adultery' is in admirable keeping. A subdued light, an indescribable kind of glow, illumines the whole work, and pervades it with a mysterious harmony. The idea of the work is most effectively enhanced by the magic of chiaroscuro .... The different lights, the strongest of which is thrown on the yellow robe of the woman, on the group on the stairs, and on the gilded altar, are united by means of very skilful shading. The whole of the background in bathed in dark but warm shades'. — Vosmaer. 1137. Dutch School, Portrait of a boy; *66. Rubens, Autumnal landscape, with a view of the Chateau de Stein, the painter's house, near Malines; 166. Rembrandt, Capuchin friar; *47. Rembrandt, Adoration of the Shepherds (1646); 920. Roelandt Savery [Oonxtr&i, landscape and animal painter ; long at the court of Emp. Rudolph II.; d. 1639), Orpheus. 289. Gerrit Lundens (1622-77; Amsterdam), Amsterdam Mus- keteers. 'This picture, although but a greatly reduced copy of the renowned work by Rembrandt in the State Museum at Amsterdam, has a unique interest as representing the pristine condition of its great original before it was mutilated on all four sides and shorn of some of its figures .... in order to suit the picture to the dimensions of a room to which it was at that time (early part of last century) removed'. — Official Catalogue. 238. Jan Weenix the Younger (Amsterdam, d. 1719), Dead game; *207. Nicholas Maas, The idle servant, a masterpiece, dated 1666; *794. P. de Hooghe (1632-81), Courtyard of a Dutch house; 685. 168 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. //o6iema, Landscape ; J.vanRuysdael, 986. Water-mills, 628, *627. Landscapes with waterfalls; 209. Jan Both (Utrecht, painter of Italian landscapes in the style of Claude; d. after 1662\ Land- scape, with figures by Poelenhurg ; £0. Anthony van Dyck, Emperor Theodosius refused admission to the Church of S. Amhrogio at Milan by St. Ambrose (copied, with slight alterations, from Rubens's pic- ture atVienna"); 1096. Jan Weenix, Hunting-scene; 1053. Emanuel de Witle (d. 1692; Amsterdam), Interior of a church ; *680. VanDyck (after Rubens), Miraculous Draught of Fishes. David Tenters the Younger (genre-painter in Antwerp , pupil of A. Brouwer and Rubens; 1610-94), *805. Old woman peeling a pear; 817. Chateau of the painter at Perck , with portraits of himself and his family. 986. Ruysdael, Water-mills; 137. J. van Ooyen, Winter - scene ; 1289. A. ("uyp, Landscape with cattle; Rubens, 59. The brazen ser- pent, 279. Horrors of War, coloured sketch for a large picture now in the Pitti Palace at Florence ; 242. Tenters , Players at tric-trac or backgammon; 157. Rubens, Landscape; 1008. Pieter Potter ('i father of Paul Potter; d. 1595), Stag-hunt; 71. Jan Both (d. 1652; Utrecht, visited Rome), Landscape with figures; 67. Rubens, Holy Family; 1327. J. van Ooyen, Winter-scene; 57. Rubens, Con- version of St. Bavon; 1012. Matthew Merian (b. at Bale in 1621, d, 1687; painted portraits at Nuremberg and Frankfort), Portrait of a man. *278. Rubens, Triumph of Julius Caesar, freely adapted from Mantegna's famous cartoons, now in Hampton Court Palace. The Flemisli painter strives to add richness to the scene hy Bacchan- alian riot and the sensuality of imperial Rome. His elephants twist their trunks, and trumpet to the din of cymbals; negroes feed the flaming candelabra with scattered frankincense; the white oxen of Clitumnus are loaded with gaudy flowers, and the dancing maidens are dishevelled JIa'nads. But the rhythmic procession of Nantegna, modulated to the sounds of flutes and soft recorders, carries our imagination hack to the best days and strength of Rome. His priests and generals, captives and choric women, are as little Greek as they arc modern. In them awakes to a new life the spirit-quelling energy of the Republic. The painter's severe taste keeps out of sight the insolence and orgies of the Empire; he conceives Rome as Shakespeare did in '■Coriolamis (Symcnch). 1050. Bakhuizen, Shipping; 737. Ruysdael, Landscape with waterfall ; 46. Rubens, Peace and War (presented by the painter to Charles L in 1630); 955. Corn, van Poelenburg (d. 1667; Utrecht, imitator of the Roman School), Ruin, with women bathing ; 1061 . Egbert van der Poel (d. 1664 ; Delft), View of Delft after the ex- plosion of a powder-mill in 1654; 970. Gabriel Metsu (Amsterdam; 1630-67), The drowsy landlady; *963. Is(t.ac van Ostade (landscape and figure painter, pupil of his elder brother Adrian; d. 1649), Frozen river (glowing with light, very transparent in colour, and delicate in treatment); 1005. Nic. Berchem, Landscape; 1007. Jan Wils, Rocky landscape; 125. Jacob Huysman, Portrait of Izaak Walton ; *212. Thos. de Keyser (Amsterdam ; about 1660), Merchant and clerk ; *7r)7. Rembrandt{f), Christ blessing little children ; 1221. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 169 i4. de Paj36 (d. 1668), Interior; 1255. JanJansz van de Velde ("a rare Amsterdam painter; ca. 1640-56}, Still-life; 1256. Herman Steen- wyck (Delft), Still-life; 156. Van Dyck, Study of horses; 223. Bak- huizen, Dutch shipping; 1305. 0. Donck. Portraits of Jan vanHerns- heeck and Ms wife; 1004. N.Berchem, Italian landscape; 221. Eem- brandt, The artist at an advanced age; 1060. Philip Wouwerman (Haarlem; 1619-68), Vedettes, an early work; 154. Teniers the Younger, Musical party; 1095. Jan Lievens (1607-?1663), Portrait; *797. Attributed to A. Cuyp (in the style of his father Jacob Ger- ritz Cuyp, an eminent portrait-painter, and perhaps by him), Por- trait, dated 1649; 956. Jan Both, Italian scene; 1000. Bakhuizen, Shipping; 158. Teniers, Boors regaling; *1277. Nic. Maas, Por- trait (dated 1666). On Screens : 1390. J. van Ruysdael, View near Scbeveningen ; (}b9. Rottenhammer (1564-1628), Pan and Syrinx; 187. Rubens, Apotheosis of William the Silent, of Holland ; 1009. Paul Potter, The old gray hunter; 199. God fried Schalcken (Dutch genre-paint- er, famed for his candle-light effects, and a pupil of Gerard Don ; d. 1706) , Lesbia weighing jewels against her dead sparrow (Ca- tullus, Carmen iii); 192. Gerard Dou (Ley den-, 1613-1675), Por- trait of himself. *896. Gerard Terburg or Ter Borch(p ex enter, the greatest Dutch painter of conversation pieces; d. 1681), Peace of Miinster. 'This picture represents the Plenipotentiaries of Philip IV. of Spain and the Delegates of the Dutch United Provinces assembled in the Eath- haus at Miinster, on the 15th of May, 1648, for the purpose of ratifying and confirming by oath the Treaty of Peace between the Spaniards and the Dutch, signed on the 30th of January previous'. (Catalogue). It is one of the master's very finest works. 1132. Hendrick Steenioyck the Younger (b. at Frankfort, worked at Antwerp and at London, where he supplied architectural back- grounds to Van Dyck's portraits; 1580-1649), Interior; iAi6. Gerard Dou, Portrait of Anna Maria van Schurman; 151. J. van Goyen, River-scene; 1383. Jan Vermeer of Delft, Young lady at a spinet; 1251, 1021. Fr. Hals, Portraits ; 1293. J. M. Molenaar, Musical party; *1114-1118. Gonzales Coques (Antwerp, d. 1684), The five senses, allegorical and finely executed half-lengths. H. Sorgh (Rotterdam, pupil of Teniers the Younger; d. 1682), 1056. Man and woman drinking, 1055. Card-players. 1011. Coques, Portrait; 985. K. du Jardin, Sheep and goats; 1332. C. Netscher, Portrait of George, first Earl of Berkeley (?); 994. Jan van der Heyde (architectural and landscape painter at Amsterdam, 1637-1712), Street; 1243. Dutch School, Portrait; 155. Teniers the Younger, The misers; 1312. Jan Victors or Victoors (b. at Amsterdam in 1620), The village cobbler. Room XI. Early German and Flemish Schools, etc. The names of the artists are in many cases doubtful. To the left : 1094, 1231. Sir Anthony More or Moro (b. at Utrecht 170 14. NATIONAL QALLERY. in 1512, painted portraits in England) , Portraits; 703. Flemish School (15th cent.), Madonna; 184. Nicolas Lucidel (ca. 1527-90; b. in Hainault, painted portraits at Nuremberg), Jeanne d'Archel (formerly ascribed to More); 245. Hans Baldung Grien (d. 1542; German school), Senator (with the monogram of Albrecht Diirer, probably forged); 1232. Heinrich Aldegrever (Westphalian School, imitator of; Diirer; 16th cent.). Portrait; 706. Master of the Lyvers- berg Passion (Cologne; 15th cent.). Presentation in the Temple; 291. Cranac/i (German School; d. 1553), Young lady; QQA. Roger van der Weyden the Elder (d. 1464), Deposition in the Tomh; 295. Quintin'^Matsys (d. 1531), Salvator Mundi and Virgin Mary, re- plicas of Iwo pictures at Antwerp ; 687. William of Cologne (early Cologne painter ; 14th cent.), St, Veronica with her napkin ; *944. Marinus de Zeeuw or Van Romerswale (d. ca. 1570 ; a follower of Q. Matsys), Two hankers or usurers in their office, one inserting items in a ledger, while the other seems to recall with difficulty the particulars of some business transaction; 654. School of Roger van der Weyden, Mary Magdalen ; 1082. Pcrimir, Visitation ; Qbd. Flemish Master of the 15th cent., Portraits; 260. Meister von Liesborn (15th cent.). Saints; 657. Jac. Cornelissen (Amsterdam; d. ca. 1560), Dutch lady and gentleman, with their patron-saints, Peter and Paul; 709. Early Flemish School^Yivgin and Child; 655. Bernard van Orley (d. 1542), Reading Magdalen ; 718. Henrik met de Bles ('Henry with the forelock' ; Flemish painter of the 16th cent.), Mt. Calvary; 1086. Early Flemish School , Christ appearing to the Virgin after his Re- surrection. *707. Master of the St. Bartholomew Altar^ SS. Peter and Dorothy, parts of an altar-piece in Munich; 774. Flemish School of the 16th cent., Virgin and Child enthroned; *658. Early German School (formerly ascribed to Martin Schonganer), Death of the Vir- gin; *1045. Gheerardt David (early Flemish painter of Bruges; d. 1523), Wing of an altar-piece, representing Canon Bernardino di Salviatis, a Florentine merchant in Flanders, with SS. Martin, Do- natian , and Bernardino of Siena, a masterpiece ; 719. Henrik met de Bles, Mary Magdalen; 711. Ascribed to Roger van der Weyden, Mater Dolorosa. *686. Hans Memling or Memlinc (early Flemish master of Bruges ; d. ca. 1495), Virgin and Child enthroned. This is the only authentic work of this master in the gallery, and is marked by his peculiar tenderness of conception and vividness of tints. 720. J. van Schoreel or Scorel (? d. 1562), Rest on the Flight into Egypt; *222. Jan van Eyck (d. 1440 ; founder of the early Flemish School), Portrait of a man. 'This is a panel in which minute finish is combined with delicate modelling and strong relief, and a brown depth of colour'. — Crowe and Cavalcaselle, 'Early Flemish Painters'. *186. Jan van Eyck, Portraits of Giovanni Arnolflni and Jeanne de Chenany, his wife. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 171 'In no single instance has John van Eyck expressed with more per- fection, by the aid of colour, the sense of depth and atmosphere; he nowhere blended colours more carefully, nowhere produced more trans- parent shadows The finish of the parts is marvellous, and the preservation of the picture perfect'. — C. <fc C. 'Without a prolonged examination of this picture, it is impossible to form an idea of the art with which it has been executed. One feels tempted to think that in this little panel Van Eyck has set himself to accumulate all manner of difficulties, or rather of impossibilities, for the mere pleasure of overcoming them. The perspective, both lineal and aerial, is so ably treated, and the truthfulness of colouring is so great, that all the details, even those reflected in the mirror, seem perspicuous and easy, and instead of the fatigue which the examination of so laborious and complicated a work might well occasion, we feel nothing save pleasure and admiration'. — Reiset, '■Gazette des Beaux Arts\ 1878 (p. 7). The signature on this picture is 'Johannes de Eyck fuit hie' ('Jan van Eyck was here'). The inscription on No. 222 is equally modest : 'Als ich lean' ('As I can'). *290. Jan van Eyck, Portrait of a man, dated 1432. 'The drawing is careful, the painting blended to a fault'. — C. <L- C. 712. Roger van der Weyden, Ecce Homo ; 747. Attributed to Memling , St. Jolin the Baptist and St. Lawrence, 'very minutely and delicately worked' ; 705. Stephan Lochner (early master of Co- logne, about 1440), SS. Mattbevr, Catharine of Alexandria, and John ; 783. Flemish School, Exhumation of St. Hubert ; 722. iSigis- mund Holbein (?), Portrait of a woman ; 1280. Flemish Master of the 15th cent., Christ appearing to Mary after the Resurrection; 710. Hugo van der Ooes (?), Portrait of a monk, a 'vivid and truth- ful portrait' ; *656. Jan Mabuse (Jan Gossaert; early Flemish por- trait and historical painter; d. 1532), Portrait, drawing and colour- ing alike admirable; 946. Mabuse, Portrait; *943. Flemish School, Portrait of a man, dated 1462; 1042. Catharine vanHemessen (por- trait-painter at the Spanish court; 16th cent.), Portrait of a man with fair hair. On Screens : 262. Attributed to the Meister von Liesborn, Cru- cifixion; 1151. German School (15-16th cent.), Entombment; Fle- mish School (15th cent.), 708. Madonna, 696. Portrait. — 253. Attributed to the Meister von Werden, Mass of St. Hubert; 717. Patinir, St. John on Patmos; 714. Engelbertsz, Mother and Child > — 1287. Dutch School, Interior of a gallery of art. "We now again pass through Room X. in order to reach — Boom XII. Peel Collection. This is a collection of Flemish and Dutch cabinet-pieces, chiefly works of the very first rank. 819. Bakhuizen, Off the mouth of the Thames; W. van de Velde, 872. Shipping, 876. Gale; *834. P. de Hooghe, Dutch Interior (broad, full, sunlight effect); 818. Bakhuizen, Coast-scene; 865. Jan van de Cappelle (marine-painter of the 17th cent., at Amsterdam under the influence of Rembrandt), Coast-scene. *873. W. van de Velde, Coast of Scheveningen. 'The numerous figures are by Adrian van de Velde. The union of these two great masters makes this one of the most charming pictures of the Dutch school'. — W. *864. Gerard Terburg, Guitar lesson. 172 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 'Terburg may be considered as the creator of what are called con- versation-pieces, and is at the same time the most eminent master in that line. In delicacy of execution he is inferior to none ; nay in a certain delicate blending he is superior to all. But none can be compared to him in the magical harmony of his silver tones, and in the gradations of the aerial perspective'. — W. 853. Rubens, Triumph of Silenus ; *839. Melsu, Music-lesson ; 884. Wynants, Landscape, witli figures by A. van de Velde. — *852. Rubens, Portrait, known as the 'Chapeau de paille'. 'The chief charm of the celebrated 'Chapeau de Paille' (chapeau de poll) consists in the marvellous triumph over a great difficulty , that of painting a head entirely in the shadow cast by the hat, and yet in the clearest and most brilliant tones'. — ^Kugler\ edited by Crowe. *856. Jan Steen [painter of humorous conversation - pieces ; Delft and the Hague; d. 1679), The music-master (an early and very carefully finished work). *869. A. van de Velde, Frost-scene. 'Admirably drawn, touched with great spirit, and of a very pleasing, though, for the subject, perhaps too warm a tone'. — W. 829. Jan Hackaert (Amsterdam, 17th cent.). Stag-hunt; *870, 871. W. van de Velde, Sea-pieces ; *849. Paul Potter (The Hague ; 1625-54), Landscape with cattle ; 833. Meindert Hobbema (Amster- dam, pupil of Ruysdael; 1638-1709), Forest-scene. — *868. A. van de Velde, Ford. 'The composition is very tasteful, and the contrast between the con- centrated mass of light and the clear half shadow, which is repeated in soft broken tones upon the horizon, is very attractive'. — W. *826. K. du Jardin , Figures and animals reposing. — *835. Pieter de Hooghe, Court of a Dutch house, 1658. 'Excites a joyful feeling of summer. In point of fulness and depth of tone and execution one of the best pictures of the master'. — W. 875. W. vande Velde, Light breeze; 882. Wouwerman, Lands- cape; 827. K. du Jardin, Fording the stream, dated 1657. *830. Hobbema, The Avenue, Middelharuis. 'From simple and by no means beautiful materials a picture is formed which, by the feeling for nature and the power of art, makes a striking impression on the intelligent spectator. Such daylight I have never before seen in any picture. The perspective is admirable, while the gradation, from the fullest bright green in the foreground, is so delicately observed, that it may be considered a masterpiece in this respect, and is, on the whole, one of the most original works of art with which I am acquainted'. — W. 866. Van der Heyde, Street in Cologne, with figures by A. van de Velde; 880. Wouwerman, On the seashore, selling fish (sup- posed to be his last work) ; 828. Dujardin, Landscape, with cattle. — *846. Adrian van Ostade (figure-painter at Haarlem, pupil of Frans Hals; d. 1685), The alchymist. 'The eftect of light in the foreground, the predominant golden tone of extraordinary brightness and clearness, the execution equally careful and spirited, and the contrast of the deep cool chiaroscuro in the back- ground have a peculiar charm'. — W. 828. K. du Jardin. Landscape and cattle; 874. W. van de Velde, Calm at sea. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 173 883. Wynants (d. ca. 1680), Landscape, with accessories by Lingelbach (dated 1659). 'This landscape lias, in a rare degree , that serene, cool freshness of tone, which so admirably expresses the character of northern scenery, and in which Wynants is quite unrivalled". — W. *832. Hobbema^ Village, with water-mills (in a warm, summer- like tone). — *822. Cuyp, Horseman and cows in a meadow. 'Of exquisite harmony, in a bright cool light, unusual with him'. — W. 867. Adrian van de Velde (brother of Willem and pupil of "Wynants at Haarlem; 1639-72), Farm cottage; 861. Teniers, River- scene; *836. Phil, de Koninck (pupil of Rembrandt; d. 1690), Land- scape, figures by A. van de Velde; 841. Wilkm van Mieris (d. 1747), Fish and poultry shop (1718); 850. Rembrandt, Portrait. — *825. Gerard Don, Poulterer's shop. 'Besides the extreme finish , in which he holds the first place , it surpasses many of his other pictures in its unusual clearness and in the agreeable and spirited heads'. — W. 878. Wouwerman, 'La belle laitiere'. 'This picture combines that delicate tone of his second period with the great force which he adopted especially toward the end of it. The effect of the dark figures relieved against the landscape is extraordi- nary' — W. 855. Ruysdael, Landscape with a waterfall. — *847. Isaac van Ostade (d. 1649), Yillage-scene in Holland. 'This delicately drawn picture combines the greatest solidity with the most spirited execution, and the finest impasto with the greatest glow and depth of tone. Paul Potter himself could not have painted the grey horse better'. — W. *879. WGUicermnn, Interior of a stable (very delicately finished). — 831. Hobbema^ Ruins of Brederode Castle. 'Strongly illumined by a sunbeam, and reflected in the dark yet clear water which surrounds them'. — W. 820. Berchem, Landscape, with ruin; 881. Wouwerman, Gather- ing faggots; 862. Teniers, The husband surprised; 854. Ruysdael, Forest-scene; 823. Cuyp, River-scene, with cattle; 843. Caspar Net- scher (pupil of Terburg, settled at the Hague; d. 1684), Children blowing soap-bubbles (1670); 863. Teniers, Dives in torment; 951. David Tenters the Elder (pupil of Rubens, and also of Elshaimer at Rome; d. 1649), Playing at bowls; 1003. Jan Fyt (animal-painter at Antwerp in the time of Rubens; d. 1661), Dead birds; 957. Jan Both, Cattle and figures; 205. J. W. E. Dietrich (German School, court-painter at Dresden; d. 1774), Itinerant musicians ; 964. Van der Cappelle, River-scene; 962. A. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 961. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 982. A. van de Velde, Landscape; 1294. W. van de Poorter, Allegorical subject; 965. Van der Cappelle, River scene; 949. Teniers the Elder, Rocky landscape; 999. O. Schalcken, Candle-light effect; 984. A. van de Velde, Landscape; 977. W. van de Velde. Sea-piece; 1010. Dirk van Deelen (archi- tectural painter in Zeeland ; 17th cent.). Extensive palatial build- ings of Renaissance architecture, with figures by A. Palamedesz; 969. A, van der Neer, Frost-scene; 798. Philip de Champaigne (d. 174 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 1674}, Three portraits of Cardinal Richelieu, painted as a guide in the execution of a bust (over the profile on the spectator's right are the words, 'De ces deux profiles ce ey est le meilleur); 991. Ruysdael, Prostrate tree ; J. van der Heyden (d. 1712), 993. Land- scape, 992. Gothic and classic buildings ; 1017. Unknown Flemish Master, Landscape (signed D. D. Y., 1622) ^ 978. W. van de Velde, River-scene; 1006. Berchem, Landscape; 980. Willem van de Velde the Younger, Dutch vessels saluting; 950. Tenters, Conversation; 979. W. van de Velde, Shipping; 973. Jan Womwerman (landscape- painter at Haarlem ; wrongly ascribed to Wynants), Sandbank in a river; 975. Philip Wouwerman, Stag-hunt. *54. Rembrandt, Woman bathing, dated 1654. 'Her eyes are cast down, lier head inclined. Is she hesitating to enter the water in which she is mirrored? .... The charm and valne of this painting lie in the hrillant touch and impasto , the warm and forcible colouring, the middle tints, and the admirable modelling'. — Vosmaer, ^Rembrandt, sa Vie et ses (Euvres\ 983. Adrian van de Velde, Bay horse, cow, and goat; 43. Rem- brandt, Descent from the Cross; *159. Maas, The Dutch housewife, dated 1655; 974. Philip de Koninck, Hilly, wooded landscape, with a view of the Scheldt and Antwerp Cathedral; *995. Hobbema, Forest-landscape, of peculiarly clear chiaroscuro ; 988. Ruysdael, Old oak;*153. Maas, Cradle. Van der Cappelle, 966. River-scene, 967. Shipping. 1013. Hondecoeter, Geese and ducks. Ruysdael, *990. Landscape, an extensive flat, wooded country (a c/ie/'-d'cewure) ; 987. Rocky landscape. — 952. Tenters the Younger, Village fete, dated 1643. 'An admirable original repetition of the masterly picture in the pos- session of the Duke of Bedford, though not equal to the Bedford picture in delicacv". — W. 960. Cuyp, Windmills; 958. Jan Both, Outside the walls of Rome. — *976. Philip Wouwerman, Battle. 'Full of animated action, of the utmost transparency, and executed with admirable precision". — W. 959. Jan Bof/i, River-scene; 1288. B. van der iVeer, Frost-scene ; 971. Wynants, Landscape; 211. J. van Huchtenburgh (d. 1733), Battle; '877. Van Dyck, His own portrait; 134. Cornelius Gerritz Dekker or Decker, Landscape; 1074. Dtrk Hals (younger brother of Frans; d. 1656), Merry party; 1278. Hendrik Gerritz Pot (d. ca. 1656), Convivial party. On Screens: 953. Tenters, The toper; 1014. A. Elsheimer, Martyrdom of St. Lawrence ; 972. Wynants , Landscape ; 968. Gerard Dou, The painter's wife; G. Schalcken, 998. The duet, 997. Old woman ; *838. Gabriel Metsu (painter of interiors at Amster- dam ; d. after 1667), The duet. 'Painted in the warm, full tone , which is especially valuable in his pictures'. — W. *821. Gonzales Coques, Family portraits, amply justifying the artist's claim to be the 'Little Van Dyck'. — *844. Netscher, Ma- ternal instruction. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 175 'The ingenuous expression of the children , the delicacy of the hand- ling, the striking eftect of light, and the warm deep harmony render this one of the most pleasing pictures by Netscher". — W. Above the cupboard at the back there hangs a small copy of Ru- bens'' 'Brazen Serpenf in this collection (No. 59, see p. 168). 1292. Jan van Bylert, Family group ; 796. Van Huysum, Flow- ers ; 845. Netscher, Lady at a spinning-wheel (flnishecl witli great delicacy ; 840. Frans van Mieris (d. 1681), Lady feeding a parrot (these two figures, of the same size and in the same dress, afford an interesting comparison of the workmanship of the two masters) ; 857-860. Tenters^ The seasons. — *848. Isaac van Ostade , Canal scene in winter. 'The great truth, admirable treatment, and fresh feeling of a winter's day render it one of the che/s-d^oeuvre of the master'. — W, *824. A. Cuyp, Ruined castle in a lake ('gilded by the most glowing evening sun'). Several other Dutch paintings, chiefly landscapes, are tempor- arily hung in the Central Octagon (p. 164). Room XIII. Later Italian School. What is known as the Eclectic or Academic School of Painters arose in Italy with the foundation of a large academy at Bologna hy the Carracci in 1589. Its aim was to combine the peculiar excellences of the earlier masters with a closer study of nature. The best representatives of the school are grouped together in this room, which also contains examples of the later Venetian masters. Annibale Carracci (younger brother of Lodovico, and founder along with him of the Bologuese Academy; d. 1609), 93. Silenus gathering grapes; 94. Bacchus playing to Silenius, quite in the style of the ancient frescoes. 228. Jaco^^oBassano (Venetian painter of the late Renaissance ; d. 1597), Christ driving the money-changers out of the Temple ; 624. Ascribed to Oiulio Romano (Roman School, pupil of Raphael; d. 1546), Infancy of Jupiter; 135. Canaletto, Landscape with ruins ; 1054. Francesco Guardi (architectural and landscape painter, closely allied to Canaletto ; d. 1793), View in Ve- nice; 1157. Bernardo Cavallino (Naples; d. 1654), Nativity; 48. Domenichino {Domenico Zampieri; d. 1641), Tobias and the Angel; 22. Guercino {Giovanni Francesco Barhieri; d. 1666), Angels weep- ing over the dead body of Christ (a good example of this painter, re- sembling Caravaggio in the management of the light, and recalling the picture of the same subject by Van Dyck in the Antwerp Museum); 214. Ascribed to Guido, Coronation of the Virgin; 198. Ann. Car- racci, Temptation of St. Anthony, unattractive; 160. Pietro Fran- cesco Mola (1612-68), Repose on the Flight into Egypt; 11. Quido Rent (d. 1642), St. Jerome; 936. Ferdinando £j6icna (Bologna; 1657-1743) , Performance of Othello in the Teatro Farnese at Parma. *942. Canaletto {Antonio Canale, of Venice; d. 1768), Eton College in 1746, with the Thames in the foreground. 176 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. This picture was painted during the artisfs visit to England in 1746-8, perhaps, as Mr. Cook points out, in the same year (1747) that Gray published his well-known 'Ode on a distant Prospect of Eton College'. Pietro Longhi (see R. VIII, p. 164), 1100. Domestic group, 1134. Fortune-teller, 1101. Masked visitors at a menagerie; 935. Salvator Rosa (Neapolitan landscape-painter; d. 1673), River- scene. — 937. Canaletto, Scuola di San Rocco, Venice. The picture represents 'the ceremony of Giovedi Santo or IMaundy Thursday, when the Doge and officers of state with the fraternity of St. Rock went in procession to the church of St. Mark to worship the miraculous blood'. — Catalogue. 940. Canaletto, Ducal Palace and Column of St. Mark, Venice ; 1833. Tiepolo, Deposition from the Cross; 25. Ann. Carracci, St. John in the Wilderness; 939. Canaletto, Piazzetta of St. Mark, Venice; 1206. Salv. Rosa, Landscape; 210. Guardi, Piazza of St. Mark, Venice; 851. 5e&. Eicci, Venus asleep; ^b. Domenichino, St. Jerome and the Angel; 934. Carlo Dolci (Florentine painter of sacred subjects; d. 1686), Virgin and Child; 196. G'Mido, Susannah and the Elders ('a work', says Mr. Ruskin, 'devoid alike of art and decency') ; *84. Salv. Rosa, Mercury and the woodman ; 77. Domen- ichino, Stoning of St. Stephen ; 9. Ann. Carracci (?), Christ appear- ing to St. Peter after his Resurrection (the diffleulties of foreshortening have been only partly overcome) ; 75. Domenichino, Landscape with St. George and the Dragon ; 200. Sassoferrato [Giov. Batt. Salvi; d. 1685), Madonna in prayer (primitive in colouring, common in form, and lighted for effect); 193. Guido Rent, Lot and his daughters; 163. Canaletto, Grand Canal, Venice ; iSS. Pannini (Roman School ; d, 1764), Ancient ruins. — 740. Sassoferrato, Madonna and Child. The composition is not by Sassoferrato, but is from an earlier etching by Cav. Ventura Salembeni fd. 1613). See Catalogue. 28. Lodovico Carracci (d. 1619), Susannah and the Elders; *643. Giulio Romano (ascribed by Mr. Crowe to Giulio's pupil, Rinaldo Mantovano'), Capture of Carthagena, and the Moderation of Publius Cornelius Scipio, colouring and drawing both excellent. — *56. Annibale Carracci, Landscape with figures. 'Under the influence of Titian's landscapes and of Paul Bril, who was so justly esteemed by him , Annibale acquired that grandeur of composi- tion , and beauty of outlines, which had so great an influence upon Claude and Gaspar Poussin.' — W. 941. Canaletto, Grimani Palace, Venice; 177. Guido Reni, Mary Magdalen; 174. Carlo Maratta (Roman painter; d. 1713), Portrait of Cardinal Cerri; 172. Caravaggio {Micliaelangclo Amerighi , founder of the naturalistic school of Naples; d. 1009), Christ and the Disciples at Emmaus ; 127. Canaletto, View of the Scuola della Carit^, now the Accademia delle Belle Arti , Venice; 63. Ann. Carracci, Landscape. — 29. Baroccio (Federigo Barocci, a follower of Correggio; 1528-1612), Holy Family ('La Madonna del Gatto', so called from the cat introduced). 'The chief intention of the picture is John the Baptist as a child, who teases a cat by showing her a bullfinch which he holds in his hand. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 177 The Virgin, Christ, and Joseph seem much amused by this cruel sport.' — W. 933. Padovanino, Boy with a Ijird ; 271. GuidoReni, EcceHomo ; 70. Padovanino (^Alessandro Varotari^ ofVenice ; d. 1650), Cornelia and her children (children form this artist's favourite subject); *644. Ascribed to Rinaldo Mantovano^ Rape of the Sabine women, and Re- conciliation between theRomans andSabines (these pictures recall, in many respects, Raphael's frescoes in the Vatican) ; 69. Pietro Fran. Mola, St. John in the wilderness; 1059. Cannletto, Church of St. Pietro di Castello, Venice; 88. Ann. Carracci^ Ermiiiia taking refuge with the shepherds (from Tasso) ; 938. Canaletto, Regatta on the Canale Grande, Venice; *191. Ga/doi?eni, Youthful Christ embrac- ing St. John, a very characteristic work, and the best picture by Guido in this collection ; 1058. Canaletto, Canal Reggio, Venice. On Screens: Giuseppe Zais (Venetian; d. 1784), 1296. Land- scape, 1297. River-scene. — 1048. Unknown Italian Master (16th cent)., Portrait of a cardinal; 1192, 1193. Tiepolo, Sketches for altar-pieces. Boom XIV. French School. The French landscape-painter Claude Lorrain, who is represented in this collection by several fine examples, is chiefly eminent for his skill in aerial perspective and his management of sunlight. Salvator Rosa and the two Poussins lived and painted at Rome contemporaneously with him (17th cent.). Nicolas Poussin, more famed as a painter of figures than of landscapes, was the brother-in-law of Gaspar Poussin (properly Gaspar Dughet), a follower of Claude. On each side of the doorway hang a large landscape by Claude and one by Turner. To the right, as we enter from Room XIII. : *12. Claude (d. 1682), Landscape with figures (with the inscription on the picture itself, 'Mariage d'Isac avec Rebeca'), a work of wonderfully transparent atmosphere , recalling in its composition the celebrated picture 'II molino' (the mill) in the Palazzo Doria at Rome, painted in 1648; *479. Turner, Sun rising in a mist. — To the left: 498. Turner, Dido building Carthage. (These two pictures were bequeathed by the artist on condition that they should be hung beside the Claudes.) This picture (No. 498) is ncit considered a favourable specimen of Tur- ner, -whose 'eye for colour unaccountablj' fails him' (Ruskin). Mr. Ruskin comments on the 'exquisite choice' of the group of children sailing toy- boats, as expressive of the ruling passion, T7hich was to be the source of Carthage's future greatness. The visitor will scarcely need to be referred to 'Modern Painters' (Vol. I.), for Mr. lluskin's eloquent comparison of Turner with Claude and the other landscape-painters of the old style and for his impassioned championship of the English master. *14. Claude, Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba (1648). 'The effect of the morning sun on the sea, the waves of which run high, and on the masses of building which adorn the shore, producing the most striking contrast of light and shade, is sublimely poetical'. — W. Then, to the left: 1090. Francois Boucher (1704-1770), Pan Baedekkr, London. 9th Edit. \0 178 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. and Syrinx; 91. N. Poussin, Sleeping Venus surprized by satyrs; 36. Gaspard Poussin (properly G. Dughet; d. 1675), Land-storm; 236. C. J. Vernet (grandfather of Horace Vernet; d. 1789), Castle of Sant' Angelo, Rome. Claude, *1018. Classical landscape, dated 1673; 2, Pastoral landscape with figures (reconciliation of Cepha- lus and Procris); *30. Embarkation of St. Ursula. 95. G. Poussin, Landscape with Dido and ^Eneas , with sky much overcast; 65. N. Poussin (d. 1665), Cephalus and Aurora; 1319. Claude, Land- scape with figures; 903. Hyacinthe Rigaud (portrait-painter under Louis XIV. and Louis XV. ; d. 1743), Portrait of Cardinal Fleury; 5. Claude Lorrain, Seaport at sunset. — *62. N. Poussin, Baccha- nalian dance. This is the best example of Nicholas Poussin in the gallery. The composition is an imitation of an ancient bas-relief. *1019. Jean Greuze (painter of fancy portraits; d. 1805), Head of a girl looking up; 61. Claude, Landscape; 165. N. Poussin, Plague among the Philistines atAshdod. — *31. G. Poussin, Land- scape, with Abraham and Isaac. 'This is the finest picture by Poussin here. Seldom, perhaps, have the charms of a plain, as contrasted with hilly forms overgrown with the richest forests, been so well understood and so happily united as here, the effect being enhanced by a warm light, broken by shadows of clouds'. — W. 206. Greuze, Head of a girl; 58. CZaudeLorram, Landscape with goats. — 40. jV. Poussin, Landscape, with Phocion. According to Mr. Ruskin, this is 'one of the finest landscapes that an- cient art has produced, — the work of a really great and intellectual mind\ 42. N. Poussin, Bacchanalian festival ; 1057. Cavallino, Nativity; 68, 98. G. Poussin, Landscapes; 55. Claude, Landscape, with death of Procris; iibA.Greuze, Girl with a lamb ; 161. G. Poussin, Italian landscape; *6. Claude, Landscape with figures (David and Saul in the Cave of Adullam?); 1159. G. Poussin, The Calling of Abraham; 39. A^. Poussin, Nursing of Bacchus. On Screens: 101-104, Nicolas Loncret (painter of 'Fetes Ga- lantes' ; d. 1743), Ages of man; 1020. Greuze, Girl with an apple; 12bS. J. B. S. Chardin, Still-life; 1190. Ascribed to Fr. Clouet (court-painter to Francis 1. ; b. about 1510, d. before 1574), Por- trait of a boy ; 660. Clouet , Portrait of a man ; Simon Marmion, 1303. Choir of angels, 1302. Soul of St. Bertin borne to heaven. Room XV. Spanish School. To the left: Velazquez (d. 1660), *232. Adoration of the Shep- herds (early work, under the influence of Spagnoletto) ; 1122. Domenico Theotocopuli (d. 1625), surnamed II Greco, A Cardinal; *74. Bartolome Esteban Murillo (influenced by Velazquez and Van Dyck; d. 1682), Spanish peasant boy; 1129. Velazquez, Philip IV. (bought at the Hamilton sale for 0300i.) ; 1291. Juan de Valdes Leal, Assumption of the Virgin ; *197. Velazquez, Philip IV. hunting the wild boar; *176. Murillo, St. John and the Lamb; 1229. Morales (1509-86 ; surnamed 'the Divine' from his love of religious sub- jects), Holy Family, a highly finished little work, recalling the 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 179 Flemish manner; Murillo, 1286. Boy drinking, 1257. Birth of tlie Virgin; 1308. J. B, del Mmo, Portrait. Velazquez, *745. Philip IV., 1375. Christ at the house of Martha, *1148. Scourging of Christ. *13. Murillo, Holy Family; 230. Zwj- baran (d. 1662), Franciscan monk. Ribera, 235. Dead Christ, 244. Shepherd; Velazquez, 741. Dead warrior, 1376. Sketch of a duel in the Prado. Boom XVI (adjoining R. XI V). Older Bkitish School. To the left: Thomas Oainsborough (comp. p. 154), 760. Orpin, Parish Clerk of Bradford, Wiltshire; 109. The watering-place; *683. Mrs. Siddons. 1364, Wilson, Sons of Frederick, Prince of Wales, with their tutor. — Sir Joshua Reynolds, portrait-painter and writer on art , founder and first president of the Royal Aca- demy (1723-92), 889. His own portrait, 30/. Age of Innocence, 886. Admiral Keppel, *1259. Anne, Countess of Alhemarle, 890. George IV. as Prince of Wales , 182. Heads of angels , 305. Por- trait, 885. The snake in the grass. — 1402, 1403. Henry Morland, The laundry-maid ; Gainsborough, 925. Landscape, 1044. Portrait; Reynolds, 107. The banished lord, 162. Infant Samuel, 892. Ro- binetta, a study of the Hon. Mrs. Tollemache, painted about 1786; 725. J. Wright of Derby , An experiment with the air-pump. — Reynolds, 306. Portrait of himself; 887. Portrait of Dr. Johnson; 891. Lady and child. — 1197. Zoffany, Portrait of David Garrick; 1365. Reynolds, Lady Cockburn and children; 678. Gainsborough, Study of a head ; *312. Romney (1734-1802), Lady Hamilton as a bacchante ; Reynolds, 79. The Graces decorating a terminal figure of Hymen (portraits of the daughters of Sir. W. Montgomery) , 888. James Boswell, the biographer of Johnson ; 1068. Romney, The parson's daughter. Reynolds, 106, *754. Portraits; 111. Lord Heath- field, the defender of Gibraltar in 1779-83. — There are also several other portraits in this and the following room by different hands. Room XVII. Older British School. To the left : William Hogarth{di. 1764), 1161. MissFenton, the actress, as 'Polly Peachum' in the 'Beggars' Opera'; *1046. Sigismonda mourning over the heart ofGuiscardo; 1162. Shrimp girl. 309. Gainsborough, The watering- place; 304, 1290, 1064, 267, 303, 302, 1071, 108, 110. Wilson (d. 1782), Landscapes; 1374. Hogarth, The painter's servant. Samuel Scott (id. 1772), 314. Old Westminster Bridge in 1745, 313., Old London Bridge, 1223. Portion of Westminster Bridge, 1328. West- minster from the river. 1016. Sir Peter Lely (d. 1680), Portrait. Hogarth, 1153. Family group; 113-118. Marriage h la mode (in 1760 Hogarth received only 110^ for the series, which when sold again in 1794 realised 1381^.). *1249. William Dob son [1610 -4:Q; the 'English Van Dyck') , Endymion Porter, Groom of the Bed- chamber to Charles I.; 1224. Hudson (d. 1779), Scott, the painter; 676. Hogarth, Portrait of his sister; 316. Loutherbourg (d. 1812), Lake in Cumberland; 1076. Unknown, Portrait, supposed to be tlie 12* 180 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. poet Gay; 112. Hogarth, Portrait of himself ; 1281. Francis Cotes (d. 1770), Portrait of Mrs. Brocas; 1174. Gainsborough, Sketch for No. 109 fp. 179). To reach the next room, we cross tlie main staircase. Room XVIII. British School. In the doorway, to the left, John Constable's palette is shown under glass. To the left : *1242. Alex. Nasmyth(^il 6S-i8A0-, a painter of portraits and landscapes at Edin- burgh; father of Patrick Nasmyth), Stirling Castle. Sir David "Wilkie describes Alex. Nasmyth as 'the founder of the landscape school of Scotland, and the first to enrich his native land with the representation of her romantic scenery'. 1030. George Norland (d. 1804), Interior of a stable (ITOll; 374. Bonington (d.l828), Column of St. Mark at Venice; 380, 381. Patrick Nasmyth (1786-1831), Landscapes; 787. John S. Copley (b. at Boston, Mass., in 1737; d. 1815), Siege and relief of Gi- braltar. John Constable (one of the greatest English landscape- painters, who has exercised great influence on the modern French school of landscape; 1776-1837), 1065. Corn-field, 1066. Barnes Common, 1235. House in which the artist was born, 1237. View on Hampstead Heath, 1245. Church-porch at Bergholt, Suffolk. 1069. Thos. Stothard (1755-1834), Nymphs discovering the nar- cissus-flower; 1110. William Blake (1767-1827), The Spiritual Form of Pitt guiding Behemoth (an 'iridescent sketch of enigmatic dream', symbolizing the power of statesmanship in controlling brute force) ; *1037. Crome ('Old Crome' of Norwich , d. 1821), Slate quar- ries. Constable, 1244. Bridge at Gillingham. 1236. View on Hamp- stead Heath, 1276. Harwich. Stothard, 1070. Cupids, 318. Wood- land dance, 319. Cupid and Calypso. 1208. Opie (d. 1807), William Godwin; 926. Crome, Windmill; 1392. J, Z. Bell, Cardinal Bour- ehier urges the widow of Edward IV. to let her son out of prison ; 689. Crome, Mousehold Heath , near Norwich ; 1167. Op ic. Portrait, supposed to be Mary Wollstonecraft (Mrs. Godwin). Sir Thomas Law- rence (d. 1830), 129. John Angerstein (p. 150), 1238. Sir Samuel Romilly. 1163. Stothard, The Canterbury Pilgrims; 733. John Cop- ley, Death of Major Peirson; 1177. P. Nasmyth, Landscape; 1246. Constable, House at Hampstead: 1164. Blake, Procession from Cal- vary; Stothard, 322. Battle, 1185. Nymphs and satyrs, 320. Diana bathing; 1067. G. Morland, Quarry; Gainsborough, 1271. Portrait, 80. The market cart, *311. Rustic children; 348. Callcott, Dutch coast; 1039. Thos. Barker (1769-1847), Landscape; 1179. P. Nas- myth, Landscape. Copley, 100. Last public appearance of the Earl of Chatham, who fainted in endeavouring to speak in the House of Peers on April 7th, 1778, and died a month later; 1072, 1073. Studies for No. 100. 321. Stothard, Intemperance (Cleopatra and Mark Antony); 310. Gainsborough, Watering-place; 1158. James Ward (d. 1859), Harlech Castle. On screens: 1210. Kossetti, The Annunciation; Lewis, Edfou in Upper Egypt. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 181 Boom XIX. Bbitish School. To the left : 785. Sir Thos. Law- rence, Mrs. Siddons; 1285. Horace Vernet, Napoleon I. ; 1385. A. L. Egg, Beatrix knighting Esmond (from Thackeray's 'Esmond') ; 1307. Sir Thos. Lawrence, Miss Caroline Fry; 354. G. S. Neicton, Dutch girl at a window; 438. John Linnell, Woodcutters; 1184. 0. Lance, Fruit; 1183. P. Nasmyth, Landscape; 1349, 1350. Sir Edwin Landseer, Studies of lions ; Constable, 1275. View at Hampstead, *1273. Flatford Mill, 1272. Cenotaph erected in memory of Sir Joshua Reynolds in Coleorton Park, Leicestershire; 1384. P. Na- smyth, Yiew in Hampshire; 1351. G. Morland, Village inn; 1395. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Portrait; 1283. Gainsborough, Dedham; 893. Sir T. Lawrence, Princess Lieven; 1389. G. B. Willcock, Near Torquay; 1379. T. Woodman, Rat-catcher; 563. Thos. Seddon (a pre-Raphaelite; d. 1856), Jerusalem and the Valley of Jchosha- phat; 1250. Daniel Maclise (1811-70), Charles Dickens; 353. Newton (d. 1835), Yorick and the Grisette; 917. T. S. Good (d. 1872), No News; 600. Dyckmans (b. 1811), Blind beggar; 1306. Barker, Landscape. Room XX. Modern British School. To the left : 394. Wil- liam Mulready (1786-1863), Fair time; 607. Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1873), Highland dogs; 439. J. Linnell (d. 1882), Windmill; 1181. Mulready, Sea-shore with boys bathing; 1182. C. R. Leslie, Scene from Milton's 'Comus"; 452. J. F. Herring (d. 1865), The scanty meal; 407. C. Stanfield (d. 1867), View in Venice; 412. Landseer, Hunted stag; 614. W. Etty (d. 1849), The bather; 406. Stanfield, Lake of Como ; 1111. J. S. Cotman (d. 1842), Wherries on the Yare; *1226. Landseer, A distinguished member of the Ro- yal Humane Society ; 395. Mulready (d. 1863), Crossing the ford ; 1186. J. Glover (d. 1849), Landscape, with cattle; 443. G. Lance (d.l864). Fruit; 409. Landseer, King Charles spaniels; 431. E. M. Ward (d. 1879), Disgrace of Lord Clarendon; 393. Mulready, The last in; 359. Etty, Lute-player; 411. Landseer, Highland music; 426. Webster, The truant; 403. Charles Leslie (d. 1859), Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman in the sentry-box (from 'Tristram Shandy') ; 444. A. G. Egg (d. 1863), Scene from the 'Diable Boi- teux'; 404. Stanfield, Entrance to the Zuyder Zee; *604. Landseer, Dignity and Impudence ; 408. Charles Landseer (d. 1S79), Clarissa Harlowe in the spunging- house; 1040. W. J. Miiller [d. 1845), Landscape ; 410. Landseer, High Life and Low Life ; 423. Daniel Maclise, Malvolio and the Countess; 427. Webster, Dame-school; 450. Fred. Gooda'l, Village holiday; 615. W. P. Frith, Derby Day; 815. Clays, Dutch boats' in the roads of Flushing; 1205. F. L. Bridell (d. 1863) , Chestnut woods above Varenna, Lake Como ; 2U. Sir David Wilkie (d. 1840), The Parish Beadle; 183. Thos. Phillips (d. 1845), Sir David Wilkie; 810. C. Poussin, Pardon Day in Brittany. Constable, *130. Corn-lield, *1207. Hay- wain, *327. Valley Farm. 124. John Jackson (^A.iS'di), Rev. Wm. Hoi well Carr; 182 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 398. Sir Charles Eastlake (d. 1865) , A Greek girl ; 1253. J. Hol- land (d. 1870), Hyde Park Corner in 1825; 446. J. C. Horsley, The Pride of the Village (from living's 'Sketch Book'). Sir David Wilkie (1785-1841), 99. Blind Fiddler, 122. Village Festival. 453. Alex. Fraser (d. 1865), Highland cottage; 425. J. R. Herbert, Sir Thomas More and his daughter in the Tower observing monks led to exe- cution; 317. Stothard, Greek vintage; 1175. James Ward, Regent's Park in 1807 ; 1204. James Stark (d. 1859), Valley of the Yare, near Norwich. Wilkie, 921. Blindmans Buff (sketch); 828. The first ear-ring. On Screens : *1279. Dante Gabriel Bossetti (the leader of the pre-Raphaelite movement in English art; 1828-82), 'Beata Beatrix' (a portrait of the artist's wife, painted some time after her death) ; the words at the foot of the frame were quoted by Dante from Jere- miah to indicate the grief in Florence on Beatrice's death, the date of which (June 9th, 1290) is given at the top. — 1398. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Ippolita Torelli. Rooin XXI. British School of the 19th century. To the left : 402. Leslie, Sancho Panza in the chamber of the Duchess; 231. Wilkie, Portrait of Thomas Daniell, R. A.; 620. Lee (d. 1879), River-scene, the cattle by Cooper; *432. E. M. Ward, The South Sea Bubble; 120. Sir William Beechey (d. 1839), Nollekens, the sculptor; *356. Etty, 'Youth on the prow and Pleasure at the helm' (Gray), Sir E. Landseer, 605. Defeat of Comus, 603. Sleeping bloodhound (painted in four days), *608. 'Alexander and Dio- genes'. 922. Lawrence, Portrait of a child; 1142. Cecil Lawson (d. 1882), The August moon ; *Q2i. Rosa Bonheur, Horse-fair; 416. Pickersgill (d. 1875), Robert Vernon (p. 152). ArySchefferi^d. 1868), 1170. SS. Augustine and Monica, 1169. Mrs. Robert Hollond, who sat for St. Monica in No. 1170. 397. Eastlake, Christ lamenting over Jerusalem; 401. David Roberts (architectural painter; d. 1864), Chancel of the church of St. Paul at Antwerp ; *1209. Fred. Walker (d. 1875), The vagrants ; 606. Landseer, Shoeing the bay mare ; 814. Clays, Dutch shipping. Sir Edwin Landseer, 413. Peace, 414. War; 900. John Hoppner (d. 1810), Countess of Oxford; 399. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Escape of the Carrara family from the Duke of Milan in 1389 ; 428. R. Redgrave (d. 1888), Country cousins; 437. Danby (d. 1861"), Landscape; 609. Sir E. Landseer, The Maid and the Magpie; 899. Thos. Daniell, View in Bengal; *430. E. M. Ward, Dr. Johnson in Lord Chesterfield's ante-room; 1029. Linton (_d.l876). Temples of Pa-stum ; *422. Maclise, Scene from Hamlet; 340. Sir A. Callcott,'D\\t(:]\ peasants returning from market, 346. En- trance to Pisa ; 898. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Byron's dream ; *894. Wilkie, John Knox preaching before the Lords of the Congregation in 1559, after his return from an exile of 13 years; 1091. Poole (d. 1879), Vision of Ezekiel; 616. E. M. Ward, James H. receiving the news of the lauding of William of Orange; 1408. Opie, Portrait; 1382. 15. LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. 183 John Jackson, Salvator Mundi. — On Screens: T. S. Good, 919, Study of a boy, 378. The newspaper; Wilkie, 330. Landscape, 329, Bagpiper. — 1225. T. Webster (d. 1886), His father and mother; 1112. Linnell, Portrait; 1038. Mulready, Snow-seene; 1178. P. Na- smyth, Landscape; 1407. W. Dyce, Pegwell Bay; 442. Geo. Lance, Little Redcap; 1388. George Mason, The cast shoe. Boom XXII. contains an admirable collection of paintings by J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851), the greatest English landscape- painter (comp. p. 177), chiefly bequeathed by the artist himself. To the left : *528. Burial at sea of Sir David Wilkie ; 534. Ap- proach to Venice ; *530. Snow-storm, steamboat off a harbour making signals; 472. Calais pier, English packet arriving; 470. Tenth plague of Egypt ; 476. Shipwreck ; 483. View of London from Green- wich; 813. Fishing-boats in a breeze; 480. Death of Nelson ; 493, The Deluge; 481. Boat's crew recovering an anchor at Spithead; 488. Apollo slaying the Python; 477. Garden of the Hesperides ; 513. Vision of Medea; 516. Childe Harold's Pilgrimage; 473. Holy Family ; *497, Crossing the brook ; 512. Caligula's palace and bridge atBaise; 558. Fire at sea (unfinished); 458. Portrait of himself; *538. Rain, steam, and speed, the Great Western Railway ; 501. Shipwreck at the mouth of the Meuse ; 520. Apollo and Daphne ; 506. Dido directing the equipment of the fleet at Carthage ; *502. Richmond Hill; 508. Ulysses deriding Polyphemus; 505. Apollo and the Sibyl, Bay of Baise ; 474. Destruction of Sodom; *492. Frosty morning ; 495. Apuleia in search of Apuleius ; 559. Pet- worth Park; *535. The 'Sun of Venice' putting to sea; *524. The 'Fighting Temeraire' towed to her last berth to be broken up (one of the most frequently copied pictures in the whole Gallery); 486. View of Windsor; 54S. Queen Mab's Grotto; 523. Agrippina landing with the ashes of Germanicus. — On Screens : 570. Turner, Grand Canal at Venice; Turner's palette, with an autograph letter. — 1391. F. D. Walker, The Harbour of Refuge; 369. Turner, Prince of Orange landing at Torbay. 16. Royal College of Surgeons. Soane Museum. Floral Hall. Covent Garden Market. St, Paul's. Garrick Club. Lincoln's Inn Fields (PI. R, 31 ; //), to the W. of Lincoln's Inn (p. 140), are surrounded by lawyers' offices and form the largest square in London. Before their enclosure in 1735 they were a favourite haunt of thieves and a resort of duellists. Lord William Russell (p. 127) was executed here in 1683. On the S. side of Lincoln's Inn Fields rises the Royal College of Surgeons, designed by Sir Charles Barry, and erected in 1835. It contains an admirable museum. Visitors are admitted, through the personal introduction or written order of a member, on Mon., 184 15. ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. Tues., Wed., and Thurs. from 11 to 4 in winter, and from 11 to 5 in summer. The Museum is closed during the month of Septem- ber. Application for orders of admission, which are not transfer- able, may be made to the secretary. The nucleus of the museum consists of a collection of 10,000 anatomical preparations formed by John Hunter (d. 1793) , which was purchased by Government after his death and presented to the College. It is divided into two chief departments, viz. the Physio- logical Series, containing specimens of animal organs and forma- tions in a normal state , and the Pathological Series, containing similar specimens in an abnormal or diseased condition. There are now in all about 23,000 specimens. A Synopsis of the Contents is sold at the Museum, price 6d. Extended catalogues of the dif- ferent departments are also distributed throughout the Museum for the use of visitors. In the centre of the Western Museum, the room we first enter, is hung the skeleton of a Greenland whale ; a marble statue of Hunter by Weekes, erected in 1864, stands in the middle of the floor at the S. end of the hall. The Wall Cases on the right side contain Egyptian and other mummies, an admirable and extensive collection of the skulls of the different nations of the earth , deformed skeletons , abnormal bone forma- tions, and the like. The Floor Cabinets on the right contain anatomical preparations illustrating normal human anatomy , and also additional specimens of diseased and injured bones, including some skulls and bones injured by gun-shot wounds in the Crimean war. The first five Floor Cabinets on the left contain a collection illustrating the zoology of the invertebrates, such as zoophytes, shell-fish, crabs, and beetles. In the sixth cabinet are casts of the interior of crania. The Wall Cases on this side hold vegetable fossils, human crania, and human skeletons. In the case at the upper end of the room is the skeleton of the Irish giant Byrne or O'Bryan, 7ft. Tin. high ; adjoining it, under a glass-shade, is that «"»f the Sicilian dwarf, Caroline Crachami, who died at the age of 10 years, 20in. in height, lender the same shade are placed wax models of her arm and foot, and beside it is a plaster cast of her face. The Middle Museum forms the palseontological section , where the antediluvian skeletons in the centre are the most interesting objects. Skeleton of a gigantic stag (erroneously called the Irish Elk), dug up from abed of shell-marl beneath a peat-bog at Limerick; giant armadilloes from Buenos Ayres ; giant sloth (mylodon), also from Buenos Ayres ; a cast of the Binovnis giganteus, an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand; the huge megatherium , with the missing parts supplied. In the Wall Cases is a number of smaller skeletons and fossils. The Floor Cabinet contains in one of its trays specimens of the hair and skin of the great extinct elephant or mammoth, of which there are some fossil remains in one of the cases. The Easteen Museum contains the osteological series. In the centre are the skeletons of the large mammalia: whales (including a sperm- whale or cachalot, 50 ft. long), hippopotamus, giraffe, rhinoceros, ele- phant, etc. The elephant, Chunee, was exhibited for many years in Eng- land, but becoming unmanageable had at last to be shot. The poor animal did not succumb till more than 100 bullets had been fired into its body. The skeleton numbered 4506 A. is that of the first tiger shot by the Prince of Wales in India in 1876. The skeleton of 'Orlando', a Derby winner, and that of a favourite deerhound of Sir Edwin Landseer, are also exhibited here. The Cases round the room contain smaller skeletons. Round each of the rooms run two galleries, in which are kept numer- ous preparations in spirit, etc., including the diseased intestines of 15. SOANE MUSEUM. 185 Napoleon I. The galleries of the Western Museum are reached by a staircase at the S. end of the room, those of the Eastern by a staircase at the E. end of the room. The galleries of the Middle Room are entered from those of either of the others. A room , entered from the staircase of the Eastern Museum, contains a collection of surgical instruments. The Museum is conspicuous for its admirable organisation and arrangement. The College also possesses a library of about 40,000 volumes. The Council Room contains a good portrait of Hunter by Reynolds and several busts by Chantrey. At No. 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side, opposite the College of Surgeons, is Sir John Soane's Museum (PI. R, 31 ; //), founded by Sir John Soane (d.l837), architect of the Bank of England. During March, April, May, June, July, and August this interesting collection is open to the public on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., from 11 to 5. During the recess visitors are admitted by tickets obtained from the curator, Mr. Wyatt Papworth. The collection, which is exceedingly diversified in character , occupies 24 rooms, some of -which are very small , and is most in geniously arranged, every corner being turned to account. Among the contents, many of which offer little attraction, are a few good pictures and a number of curiosities of historical or personal interest. A General Descrip- tion of the contents, price 6d., may be had at the Museum. The Dining Room and LiBRARr, which the visitor first enters , are decorated somewhat after the Pompeian style. The ceiling paintings are by Henry Howard^ R. J., the principal subjects being Phoebus in his car, Pandora among the gods, Epimetheus receiving Pandora, and the Opening of Pandora's vase. On the walls are Reynolds'' Snake in the grass, a replica of the picture at the National Gallery, and a portrait of Sir John Soane, by Lawrence. The Greek painted fictile vase at the N. end of the room, 2 ft. 8 in. high, the vase and chopine on the E. side, and a French clock with a small orrery all deserve notice. A glazed case on a table contains a fine illuminated MS. with a frontispiece by Giulio Clovio. We now pass through two diminutive rooms into the Museum, con- taining numerous Marbles etc. To the right is the Picture Gallery, a room measuring 13 ft. 8 in. in length, 12 ft. 4 in breadth, and 19 ft. 6 in. in height, which, by dint of ingenious arrangement, can accommodate as many pictures as a gallery of the same height, 45 ft. long and 20 ft. broad. The walls are covered with movable shutters, hung with pictures on both sides. Among these are: Hogarth, The Rake's Progress, a cele- brated series of eight pictures, and the Election (four pictures); Canaletto^ The Rialto at Venice, and The Piazza of St. Mark; Study of a head from one of Raphael's large cartoons, perhaps by Giulio Romano. — ^^^len the last shutter of the S. wall is opened we see into a well-lighted recess, with a copy of a nymph by Westmacott, and into a small room called the Slonk's Parloir (see below). From the hall with the columns we descend into a kind of crypt, where we thread our way to the left through numerous statues, both originals and casts, and relics of ancient art, to the Sepulchral Chamber, which contains the most interesting object in the whole collection. This is an Egyptian sarcophagus, found in 1817 by Belzoni in a tomb in the valley of Biban el-Muhik , near the ancient Thebes , and consisting of one block of alabaster or arragonite, 9 ft. 4 in. long , 3 ft. 8 in. wide, and 2 ft. 8 in. deep at the head, covered both internally and externally with hieroglyphics and figures •, it is 2V2 inches in thickness. The hiero- glyphics are interpreted as referring to Seti I., father of Ramses the Great. On the S. side of this, the lower part of the Museum, is the Monument 186 15. SOANE MUSEUM. CouHT, with an 'architectural pasticcio'' , showing various styles, in the centre. The Monk's Parloir (see above) contains objects of mediseval art, some Peruvian antiquities, and tow fine Flemish wood-carvings. The rooms on the ground-floor (to which we now re-ascend) are filled with statuary, architectural fragments, terracottas, and models, among which some fine Roman portrait-busts may be noticed. Behind the cast of the Apollo Belvedere is an additional picture-gallery, containing specimens of Canaletto ('Port of Venice), Turner (■ Adm. Tromp's barge entering the Texel; Kirkstall Abbey), Calcott, Eastlake^ etc. Adjonining this is a recess with portraits of the Soane family, Avorks by Evysdael and Watieau (Les Noces), etc. In the Breakfast Room are some choice illuminated MSS., and an inlaid pistol which once belonged to Peter the Great. This room, for its arrangement, mode of lighting, the use of mirrors, etc., is, perhaps, unique in London, The Drawing Rooms, on the first floor, contain a carved ivory and gilt table and four chairs from the palace of Tippoo Sahib at Sering- apatam; a collection of exquisitely delicate miniature paintings on silk, by Labelle 5 a small but choice collection of antique gems , chiefly from Tarentum ; many drawings and paintings ; and various architectural designs by Sir John Soane. In the glass-cases in the middle of the second room are exhibted the first three "folio editions of Shakspeare, an original MS. of Tasso's 'Gerusalemme Liberata", and two sketch-books of Sir Joshua Reynolds, etc. On stands in these rooms are cork models of Pompeii, ancient temples, etc. The Library contains large collections of valuable old books, draw- ings, and MSS., which are accessible to the student. — A large variety of ancient painted glass has been glazed in the windows throughout the museum. In Duke St., running to the W. from near the S.W. corner of the square, is the Sardinia Catholic Chapel [PI. R, 31 ; 7i), oppo- site which Benjamin Franklin once lodged. A little to the S.E. is the large King' a College Hospital, behind which is the squalid neigh- bourhood of Clare Market. Great Queen Street^ containing Freemasons' Hall and Freemasons' Tavern, runs to the S.W. from the N.W. corner of Lincoln's Inn Fields. Beyond Drury Lane (p. 146) it is continued by Long Acre, with numerous coach-builders' establishments. To the left (S.) of Long Acre diverges Bow Street, in which is tlie Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden, adjoined by the Floral Hall, now used as a foreign fruit wholesale market. Nearly opposite is the iVei/j Bow Street Po- lice Court, the most important of the 14 metropolitan police courts of London. At the corner of Bow Street and Russell Street was Will's Coffee House, the resort of Dryden and other literary men of the 17- 18th centuries. Russell Street leads hence to the E. to Drury Lane Theatre (p. 40), and to the W. to Covent Garden Market (PL R, 31 ; //), the property of the Duke of Bedford, the principal vegetable, fruit, and flower market in London. It presents an exceedingly pictur- esque and lively scene, the best time to see the vegetable market being about G o'clock on the mornings of Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the market-days (comp. p. 26). The show of fruit and flowers is one of the finest in the world, presenting a gorgeous 15. COVENT GARDEN. 187 array of colours and diffusing a delicious fragrance; it is seen to full advantage from 7 to 10 a.m. The Easter Eve flower-market is particularly brilliant. The neighbourhood of Covent Garden is full of historic mem- ories. The name reminds us of the Convent Garden belonging to the monks of Westminster , which in Ralph Agas's Map of Lon- don (1560) is shown walled around, and extending from the Strand to the present Long Acre (p. 186), then in the open country. The Bedford family received these lands (seven acres, of the yearly value of Ql. 6s. 8d.) as a gift from the Crown in 1552. The square was planned by Inigo Jones ; and vegetables used to be sold here, thus perpetuating the associations of the ancient garden. In 1831 the Duke of Bedford erected the present market buildings, which have recently been much improved, though they are still quite inadequate for the enormous business transacted here on market-days. The neighbouring streets, Russell, Bedford, and Tavistock, comme- morate the family names of the lords of the soil. In the Covent Garden Piazzas, now nearly all cleared away, the families of Lord Crewe, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Hollis, Earl of Oxford, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir Kenelm Digby, the Duke of Richmond, and other distinguished persons used to reside. In this square was the old 'Bedford Coffee-house', frequented by Garrick, Foote, and Ho- garth, where the Beef-Steak Club was held ; and here was the not over savoury 'Old Hummums Hotel'. Here also was 'Evans's' [so named from a former proprietor), a house once the abode of Sir Kenelm Digby, and long noted as a place for suppers and evening entertainments. It is now occupied by a club. The neighbouring church of St. Paul, a plain building erected by Jnigo Jones at the beginning of the 17th cent., contains nothing of interest. It was the first Protestant church of any size erected in London. In the churchyard are buried Samuel Butler (d. 1680), the author of 'Hudibras' ; Sir Peter Lely (Vandervaes, d. 1680), the painter; W. Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the carver in wood; T. A. Arne (d. 1778), the composer; John Wolcot (Peter Pindar; d. 1819), the author; and Kynaston, the actor. Between Covent Garden and the Strand is old Maiden Lane^ where Andrew Marvell, the poet, and Turner, the painter, once resided, and where Voltaire lodged for some time. The Garrick Club, 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, founded in 1831, possesses an important and valuable collection of portraits of celebrated English actors, shown on Wednesdays only, to visitors accompanied by a member. 188 16. Whitehall. United Service Museum. The Horse Guards. The Goverrtment Ofpces . The broad street leading from Trafalgar Square , opposite the National Gallery, to the S., towards Westminster, is called Whiteliall (PL R, 26; /F), after the famous royal palace of that name for- merly situated here, of which the banqueting hall only now remains. At the beginning of the 13th cent., the Chief Justiciary, Hubert de Burgh, who resided here, presented his house with its contents to the Dominican monks of Holborn, who afterwards sold it to Walter Gray, Archbishop of York, Thenceforward it was the Lon- don residence of the Archbishops of York, and was long known as York House or York Palace. On the downfall of Wolsey, Arch- bishop of York, and favourite of Henry VIH., York House became crown property, and received the name of Whitehall : — 'Sir, you Must no more call it York-place, that is past^ For, since the cardinal fell, that title's lost; 'Tis now the king's, and call'd — WhitehalF. Hen. VIII. iv. 6. The palace was greatly enlarged and beautified by its new owner, Henry VIIL, and with its precincts became of such extent as to reach from Scotland Yard to near Bridge Street, and from the Thames far into St. James's Park, passing over what was then the narrow street of Whitehall, which it spanned by means of a beau- tiful gateway designed by Holbein. The banqueting-hall of old York House, built in the Tudor style, having been burned down in 1615, James I. conceived the idea of erecting on its site a magnificent royal residence , designed by Inigo Jones. The building was begun, but, at the time of the breaking out of the Civil War, the Banqueting Hall only had been completed. In 1691 part of the old palace was burned to the ground, and the remainder in 1697; so that nothing remained of Whitehall, except the new hall, which is still standing (on the E. side of Whitehall; see p. 189). The reminiscences of the tragic episodes of English history transacted at Whitehall are much more interesting than the place itself. It was here that Cardinal Wolsey, the haughty, splendour- loving Archbishop of York, gave his costly entertainments, and here he was disgraced. Here, too, Henry VIII. became enamoured of the unhappy Anne Boleyn, at a ball given in honour of the fickle and voluptuous monarch; and here he died in 1547. Holbein, the famous painter, occupied rooms in tlie palace at that period. It was from Whitehall that Elizabeth was carried as a prisoner to the Tower, and to Whitehall she returned in triumph as Queen of England. From an opening made in the wall between the upper and lower central windows of the Banqueting Hall, Charles I. was led out to the scaffold erected in the street close by. A little later 16. UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTE. 189 the Protector Oliver Cromwell took up his residence here with his secretary, John Milton, and here he died on 3rd Sept., 1658. Here Charles II., restored, held a profligate court, one of the darkest blots on the fame of England, and here he died in 1685. After the destruction of Whitehall Palace by lire in 1697, St. James's Palace became the royal residence. The Banqueting Hall, one of the most splendid specimens of the Palladian style of architecture, is 111ft. long, 55^2 ft- wide, and 551/2 ft. high. The ceiling is embellished with pictures by Rubens, on canvas, painted abroarl, at a cost of 3000i., and sent to England. They are in nine sections, and represent the Apo- theosis of James I. in the centre, with allegorical representations of peace, plenty, etc., and scenes from the life of Charles I., the artist's patron. Van Dyck was to have executed for the sides a series of mural paintings, representing the history and ceremonies of the Order of the Garter, but the scheme was never carried out. George I. converted the banqueting -house into a Royal Chapel, which was dismantled in 1890, and in 1894 the United Service Museum (see below) was removed hither(adm., see below). The base- ment floor or crypt, previously subdivided into dark cellars, was at the same time restored and provided with a concrete floor, while the wood of the oaken pews was used to panel the bases of the walls and piers. Adjoinin^j!; the Banqueting Hall on the S. are the new buildings of the Royal United Service Institute, which was founded in 1830 and possesses an interesting collection of objects connected with the mil- itary and naval professions, and a library. The institution numbers about 4600 members, each of whom pays an entrance fee of li. and a yearly subscription of the same amount or a life-subscription of 10 1. Admission, by order from a member or on application to the secretary, daily, except Sundays and Fridays, 11-5 in summer, 11-4 in winter. Soldiers, sailors, and policemen in uniform are admitted without orders. — The new buildings contain a large Lecture Hall, Library, Smoking Room, etc., while the United Service Museum is accommodated in the Banqueting Hall (see below). — Until 1894 the Institute occupied a building in Whitehall Yard , now Horse Guards Avenue, to the N. of the hall. The Banqueting Hall contains a large *Mo(iel of the battle of Water- loo, by Captain Siborne, in which 190,000 figures are represented, giving one an admirable idea of the disposition and movements of the forces on the eventful day, relics of Napoleon and Wellington; the skeleton of Napoleon's charger, Marengo; the skull of Shaw, the Lifeguardsman, and numerous memorials of Waterloo. Hamilton''s model of Sebastopol, show- ing the position of the troops; a model of the battle of Trafalgar, showing the British fleet breaking the enemy's line; and a model of the battle of Sadowa, besides numerous models of war-vessels of various dates, are also placed here. — The rest of the collection , placed partly in this hall and partly in the Basement, includes weapons and martial equipments from America, Africa, the South Sea Islands, etc. ; a European Armoury, con- taining specimens of the armour and weapons of the different European 190 16. HORSE GUARDS. nations; an Asiatic Armoury, with Indian guns and armour, etc.; a Naval Collection, including models of dift'erent kinds of vessels, ships'" gear, ma- rine machinery, and the like , including an ingenious little model of a ship, executedby a French prisoner-of-war; relics of Franklin's expedition to the N. pole, and others of the Royal George, sunk at S pithead in 17825 cases containing the swords of Cromwell and General Wolfe, a midship- man's dirk that belonged to Nelson; the pistols of Sir Ralph Abercromby, Bolivar, and Tippoo Sahib; relics of Sir John Moore; personal relics of Drake, Nelson, Captain Cook, and other famous seamen; and numerous other interesting historical relics; models of ordnance and specimens of shot and shells; model steam-engines; military models of various kinds : siege-operations with trenches, lines, batteries, approaches, and walls in which a breach has been effected; fortifications, pioneer instruments, etc; uniforms and equipments of soldiers of different countries, fire-arms and portions of fire-arms at different stages of their manufacture ; trophies from the Crimean War and from the last campaign in China, etc. In Whitehall Gardens, at the back of Whitehall, stands a bronze statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, erected in 1686. Whitehall and the neighbourhood now contain various public offices. Near Charing Cross, to the left, is Great Scotland Yard, once the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police (comp. p. 191). Scotland Yard is said to have belonged to the kings of Scotland (whence its name) from the reign of Edgar to that of Henry II. At a later period, Milton, Inigo Jones, Sir Christopher Wren, and other celebrated persons resided here. Opposite, on the right side of Whitehall, is the Admiralty, behind which, facing St. James's Park, large new offices are now approaching completion. Below the Admiralty is the Horse Guards, the office of the commander-in- chief of the army, an inconsiderable building with a low clock- tower, erected in 1753 on the site of an old Tilt Yard. It derives its name from its original use as a guard - house for the palace of Whitehall. Two mounted Life Guards are posted here as sentinels every day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and the operation of relieving guard, which takes place hourly, is interesting. At 11 a.m. the troop of 40 Life Guards on duty is relieved by another troop, when a good opportunity is afforded of seeing a number of these fine sol- diers together. The infantry sentries on the other side of the Horse Guards, in St. James's Park, are also changed at 11 a.m. A pas- sage , much frequented by pedestrians, leads through the Horse Guards into St. James's Park , but no carriages except those of royalty and of a few privileged persons are permitted to pass. The Treasury, a building 100 yds. in length, situated between the Horse Guards and Downing Street, originally erected during the reign of George I. and provided by Sir Charles Barry with a new facade, is the office of the Prime Minister (First Lord of the Treasury) and also contains the Education Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Board of Trade. The Office of the Chancellor of the Exchequer occupies a separate edifice in Downing Street. :.i,'. To the S., between Downing Street and Charles Street, rise the new Public Offices, a large pile of buildings in the Italian style constructed in 1868-73 at a cost of 500,000^., from designs by Sir 16. MINISTERIAL OFFICES. 191 G. 0. Scott (d. 1878). They comprise the Home Office, the Foreign Office, the Colonial Office, and the India Office. None of these of- fices are now shown to visitors. — ■ The effect of the imposing fa- cade towards Parliament Street [the southern prolongation of White- hall) has been greatly enhanced by the widening of the street to 50 yds., whereby, too, a view ofWestminster Abbey from White- hall is disclosed ; but the removal of the W. side of Parliament Street will be necessary for the full realisation of this effect. The modern edifice on the E. side of Whitehall opposite the Treasury, in the Franco-Scottish Renaissance style, is Montague House, the mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch, containing a splendid collection of miniatures and many valuable pictures. No. 2 Whitehall Gardens, to the N. of Montague House, was the home of Benjamin Disraeli (Lord Beaconsfield) in 1873-5. No. 4 was the town- house of Sir Robert Peel, whither he was carried to die after falling from his horse in Constitution Hill (June 29th, 1850). Derby Street, on the E. side of Parliament St., leads to New Scotland Yard, on the Victoria Embankment, the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police since 1891. The turretted building, in the Scottish baronial style, was designed by Norman Shaw. 17. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall. St. Margaret's Church. Westminster Bridge, The *Houses of Parliament, or New Palace of Westminster (PI. R, 25 ; /F), which, together with Westminster Hall, form a single pile of buildings, have been erected since 1840, from a plan by Sir Charles Barry, which was selected as the best of 97 sent in for competition. The previous edifice was burned down in 1834. The new building is in the richest late-Gothic (Tudor or Perpendicular) style, and covers an area of 8 acres. It contains 11 courts, 100 stair- cases, and 1100 apartments, and has cost in all about 3,000,000^. Although so costly a national structure, some serious defects are observable; the external stone is gradually crumbling, and the building stands on so low a level that the basement rooms are said to be lower than the Thames at high tide. The Clock Tower (St. Stephen s Tower), at the N. end, next to Westminster Bridge, is 318 ft. high; the Middle Tower is 300ft. high; and the S.W. Victoria Tower, the largest of the three, through which the Queen enters on the opening and prorogation of Parliament, attains a height of 340 ft. The large clock has four dials, each 23 ft. in dia- meter, and it takes five hours to wind up the striking parts. A light in the Clock Tower by night, and the royal standard flying from the Victoria Tower by day, indicate that the 'House' is sitting. The great Bell of the Clock Tower, popularly known as 'Big Ben' (named after Sir Benjamin Hall, First Commissioner of Works at the time of its erection) is one of the largest known, weighing no less than 13 tons. It was soon found to have a flaw or crack, and its 192 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. tone became shrill, "but the crack was filed open, so as to prevent vibration, and the tone became quite pure. It is heard in calm weather over the greater part of London. The imposing river front (E.") of the edifice is 940 ft. in length. It is adorned with statues of the English monarchs from William the Conqueror down to Queen Victoria, with armorial bearings, and many other enrichments. The impression produced by the interior is in its way no less imposing than that ot the exterior. The tasteful fitting-np of the different rooms, some of which are adorned down to the minutest details with lavish magnificence, is in admirable keeping with the office and dignity of the building. The Houses of Parliament are shown on Saturdays from 10 to 4, (no admission, however, after 3.30.) by tickets obtained gratis at the entrance. We enter on the W. side by a door adjacent to the Victoria Tower (public entrance also through Westminster Hall). Police-constables, stationed in each room, hxirry visitors through the building in a most uncomfortable fashion, scarcely giving time for more than a glance at the objects of interest. The crypt is not now shown. Handhook Is. (unnecessary). Ascending the staircase from the entrance door, we first reach the Norman Porch^ a small square hall, with Gothic groined vault- ing, and borne by a finely clustered central pillar. We next enter (to the right) the Queen's Robing Room, a handsome chamber, 45 ft. in length, the chief feature in which is formed by the fresco paintings by Mr. JDyce, representing the virtues of chivalry, the sub- jects being taken from the Legend of King Arthur. Above the fire- place the three virtues illustrated are Courtesy, Religion, and Generosity; on the N. side are Hospitality and Mercy. The fine dado panelling with carvings illustrative of Arthurian legends, the rich ceiling, the fireplace, the doors, the flooring, and the state chair at the E. end of the room are all worthy of notice. Next comes the Royal or Victoria Gallery, 110 ft. long, through which the Queen, issuing from the Queen's Robing Room on the S., proceeds in solemn procession to the House of Peers, for the purpose of opening or proroguing Parliament. On these occasions privileged persons are admitted into this hall by orders obtained at the Lord Chamber- lain's Office. The pavement consists of fine mosaic work ; the ceil- ing is panelled and richly gilt. The sides are adorned with two large frescoes in water-glass by Maclise; on the left, Death of Nelson at Trafalgar (comp. p. 149), and on the right, Meeting of Bliicher and Wellington after Waterloo. The Prince's Chamber, the smaller apartment entered on quit- ting the Victoria Gallery, is a model of simple magnificence, being decorated with dark wood in the style for which the middle ages are famous. Opposite the door is a group in marble by Gibson, representing Queen Victoria enthroned, with allegorical figures of Clemency and Justice. The stained-glass windows on the W, and E. exhibit the rose, thistle, and shamrock, the emblems of Eng- I ^ograph. Aiutalt "VTigner * D*bes. Leipiig. 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 193 land, Scotland, and Ireland. Above, in the panels of the hand- some wainscot, is a series of portraits of English monarchs and their relatives of the Tudor period (1485-1603). These are as follows, beginning to the left of the entrance door: 1. Louis XII. of France; 2. Mary, daughter of Henry ^^I. of England and wife of Louis ; 3. Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Mary's second hus- band; 4. Marquis of Dorset; 5. Lady Jane Grey; 6. Lord Guildford Dud- ley, her husband; 7. James IV. of Scotland; 8. Queen Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. of England and wife of James (through this princess the Stuarts derived their title to the English throne); 9. Earl of Angus, sec- ond husband of Margaret, and Regent of Scotland; 10. James V. ; 11. Mary of Guise, wife of James V., and mother of Mary Stuart; 12. Queen Mary Stuart; 13. Francis II. of France, Mary Stuarfs first husband; 14. Lord Darnley, her second husband; 15. Henry VII.; 16. Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and wife of Henry (this marriage put an end to the Wars of the Roses, by uniting the Houses of York and Lancaster); 17. Arthur, Prince of Wales ; 18. Catharine of Aragon ; 19. Henry VIII. ; 20. Anne Boleyn ; 21. Jane Seymour ; 22. Anne of Cleves ; 23. Catharine Howard ; 24. Catharine Parr ; 25. Edward VI. ; 26. Queen Mary of England ; 27. Philip of Spain, her husband; 28. Queen Elizabeth. Over these portraits runs a frieze with oak leaves and acorns and the armorial bearings of the English sovereigns since the Con- quest ; below, in the sections of the panelling, are 12 reliefs in oak, representing events in English history (Tudor period). Two doors lead from this room into the *Housb of Peers, which is sumptuously decorated in the richest Gothic style. The oblong chamber, in which the peers of England sit in council, is 90 ft. in length 45 ft. broad, and 45 ft. high. The floor is almost entirely oc- cupied with the red leather benches of the 550 members. The twelve tine stained-glass windows contain portraits of all the kings and queens of England since the Conquest. At night the House is lighted from the outside through these windows. Eighteen niches between the windows are occupied by statues of the barons who extorted the Magna Charta from King John. The very handsome walls and ceiling are decorated with heraldic and other emblems. Above, in recesses at the upper and lower ends of the room, are six frescoes, the first attempts on a large scale of modern English art in this department of painting. That on the wall above the throne, in the centre, represents the Baptism of King Ethelbert (about 596), by Dyce; to the left of it, Edward III. investing his son, the 'Black Prince', with the Order of the Garter; on the right, Henry, son of Henry IV., acknow- ledging the authority of Judge Gascoigne, who had committed the Prince to prison for striking him, both by Cope. — Opposite, at the N. end of the chamber, three symbolical pictures of the Spirits of Religion, Justice, and Chivalry, the first by Horsley., the other two by Maclise. At the S. end of the hall, raised by a few steps, and covered with a richly gilded canopy, is the magnificent throne of the Queen. On the right of it is the lower throne of the Prince of Wales, while on the left is that intended for the sovereign's consort. At the sides are two large gilt candelabra. The celebrated woolsack of the Lord Chancellor, a kind of cushioned ottoman , stands in front of the throne, almost in the centre of the hall. — At the N. end of the chamber, opposite the throne, is the Bar, where official communications from the Cotn- Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 13 194 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. mons to the Lords are delivered, and where law-suits on final appeal are pleaded. Above the Bar are the galleries for the re- porters and for strangers. Ahove the throne on either side are seats for foreign ambassadors and other distinguished visitors. From the House of Lords we pass into the Peers' Lobby, another rectangular apartment, richly fitted up, with a door on each side. The brass foliated wings of the southern door are well worthy of examination. The corners contain elegant candelabra of brass. The encaustic tiled pavement, with a fine enamel inlaid with brass in the centre , is of great beauty. Each peer has in this lobby his own hat-peg, etc., provided with his name. The door on the left (W.) side leads into the Peers' Robing Room (not always shown), which is decorated with frescoes \)y Her- bert. Two only have been finished (Moses bringing the Tables of the Law from Sinai, and the Judgment of Daniel). The door on the N. side opens on the Peers' Corridor, the way to the Central Hall and the House of Commons. This corridor is em- bellished with the following eight frescoes (beginning on the left) : — 1. Burial of Charles I. (beheaded 1649); 2. Expulsion of the Fellows of a college at Oxford for refusing to subscribe to the Covenant; 3. Defence of Basing House by the Cavaliers against the Roundheads •, 4. Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham ; 5. Speaker Lenthall vindicating the rights of the House of Commons against Charles I. on his attempt to arrest the five members •, 6. Departure of the London train-bands to the relief of Gloucester; 7. Embarkment of the Pilgrim Fathers for New England; 8. Lady Russell taking leave of her husband before his execution. The spacious *Central Hall, in the middle of the building, is octagonal in shape, and richly decorated. It is 60 ft. in diameter and 75 ft. high. The surfaces of the stone-vaulting, between the massive and richly embossed ribs, are inlaid with Venetian mosaics, representing in frequent repetition the heraldic emblems of the Eng- lish crown, viz. the rose, shamrock, thistle, portcullis, and harp. Lofty portals lead from this hall into (N.) the Corridor to the House of Commons ; to (W.) St. Stephen's Hall ; to (E.) the Waiting-Hall (see p. 195) ; and (S.) the House of Peers (see p. 193). Above the last door is a representation, in glass mosaic, of St. George, by Poynter. Here, too, are statues of Lord John Russell (d. 1878) and Lord Iddesleigh (d. 1887). The niches at the sides of the portals bear statues of English sover- eigns. At the W. door: on the left, Edward I., his consort Eleanor, and Edward II.; on the right, Isabella, wife of King John, Henry HI., and Eleanor, his wife. At the N. door: on the lett, Isabella, wife of Edward II., Henry IV., and Edward III. ; on the right, Richard II., his consort, Anne of Bohemia, and Philippa, wife of Edward III. At the E. door: on the left, Jane of Navarre, wife of Henry IV., Henry V., and his wife Catha- rine; on the right, Henry VI., Margaret, his wife, and Edward VI. At the S .door: on the left, Elizabeth, wife of Edward IV., Edward V., and Rich- ard III. ; on the right, Anne, wife of Richard III., Henry VII., and his eon- sort Elizabeth. The niches in the windows are filled with similar statues. Round the handsome mosaic pavement runs the inscription (in the Latin of the Vulgate), 'Except the Lord keep the house , their labour is but lost that build it'. 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 195 A door on the E. side of the Central Hall leads to the Hall of THE PoBTs, also Called the Upper Waiting Hall [not always shown). It contains the following frescoes of scenes from English poetry : — Griselda's first trial of patience, from Chaucer, by Cope; St. George conquering the Dragon , from Spenser , by Watts ; King Lear disinheriting his daughter Cordelia, from Shakspeare, by Herbert ; Satan touched by the spear of Ithuriel, from Milton, by Horsley ; St. Cecilia, from Dryden, by Tenniel; Personification of the Thames, from Pope, by Armitage ; Death of Marmion, from Scott, by Armitage ; Death of Lara, from Byron, by W. Dyce. Beyond the N. door of the Central Hall, and corresponding with the passage leading to the House of Lords in the opposite direction, is the Commons' Cobbidor, leading to the House of Commons. It is also adorned with 8 frescoes, as follows (beginning on the left) : — 1. Alice Lisle concealing fugitive Cavaliers after the battle of Sedge- moor; 2. Last sleep of the Duke of Argyll; 3. The Lords and Commons delivering the crown to William and Mary in the Banqueting Hall ; 4. Acquittal of the Seven Bishops in the reign of James II. (comp. p. 197); 5. Monk declaring himself in favour of a free parliament; 6. Landing of Charles II. ; 7. The executioner hanging Wishart's book round the neck of Montrose ; 8. Jane Lane helping Charles II. to escape. We next pass through the Commons' Lobby to the — House of Commons , 75 ft. in length , 45 ft. wide, and 41 ft. high, very substantially and handsomely fitted up with oak-panel- ling , in a simpler and more business-like style than the House of Lords. The present ceiling, which hides the original one, was con- structed to improve the lighting and ventilation. The members of the House (670 in number, though seats are provided for 476 only) enter either by the public approach, or by a private entrance through a side-door to the E. of Westminster Hall and along an arcade between this hall and the Star Chamber Court. The twelve stained- glass windows are adorned with the armorial bearings of parliament- ary boroughs. In the evening the House is lighted through the glass panels of the ceiling. The seat of the Speaker or president is at the N. end of the chamber, in a straight line with the woolsack in the House of Lords. The benches to the right of the Speaker are the recognised seats of the Government Party ; the ministers occupy the first bench. On the left of the Speaker are the members forming the Opposition, the leaders of which also take their seats on the first bench. In front of the Speaker's table is the Clerks' table, on which lies the Mace. The Reporters' Gallery is above the speaker, while above it again, behind an iron grating, are the seats for ladies. At the S. end of the House, opposite the Speaker, are the galleries for strangers. The upper, or Strangers' Gallery, can be visited by an order from a Member of Parliament. To the lower, or Speaker's Gallery, admission is granted only on the Speakers order, obtained by a member. The row of seats in front of the Speaker's Gallery is appropriated to members of the peerage and 13* 196 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. to distinguished strangers. The galleries at the sides of the House are for the use of members, and are deemed part of the House. The seats underneath the galleries, on a level -with the floor of the House, but outside the bar , are appropriated to members of the diplomatic corps and to distinguished strangers. Permission to be present at the debates of the Lower House can be obtained only from a member of parliament. The House of Lords, when sitting as a Court of Appeal, is open to the public; on other occasions a peer's order is necessary. On each side of the House of Commons is a ^Division Lobby\ into which the members pass, when a vote is taken, for the purpose of being counted. The 'Aj/es', or those who are favourable to the motion, retire into the W. lobby, to the right of the Speaker; the ^ Noes', or those who vote against the motion, retire into the E. lobby, to the Speaker's left. Returning to the Central Hall we pass through the door at its western (right) extremity, leading to St. Stephen's Hall^ which is 75 ft. long, 30 ft. broad, and 55 ft. high. It occupies the site of old St. Stephen's Chapel , founded in 1330, and long used for meetings of the Commons. Along the walls are marble statues of celebrated English statesmen : on the left (S.), Hampden , Selden , Sir Robert Walpole , Lord Chatham , his son Pitt, and the Irish orator Grattan ; on the right (N.) , Lord Claren- don, Lord Falkland, Lord Somers, Lord Mansfield, Fox, and Burke. The niches at the sides of the doors are occupied by statues of English sovereigns. By the E. door : on the left, Matilda, Henry II., Eleanor ; on the right, Richard Cceur de Lion, Berengaria, and John. By the W. door : on the left, William the Conqueror, Matilda, Wil- liam II ; on the right, Henry I. Beauclerc, Matilda, and Stephen. A broad flight of steps leads hence through St. Stephen's Porch (62 ft. in height), passing a large stained-glass window, and turning to the right, to Westminster Ball. The present Westminster Hall is part of the ancient Palace of Westminster founded by the Anglo-Saxon kings, and occupied by their successors down to Henry VIII. The hall was begun by William Rufus , son of the Conqueror, in 1097, continued and extended by Henry III. and Edward I., and almost totally destroyed by fire in 1291. Edward II. afterwards began to rebuild it ; and in 1398 Richard II. caused it to be remodelled and enlarged, supplying it with a new roof. It is one of the largest halls in the world with a wooden ceiling unsupported by columns. Its length is 290 ft., breadth 68 ft., and height 92 ft. The oaken roof, with its hammer-beams, repaired in 1820 with the wood of an old vessel in Portsmouth Harbour, is considered a masterpiece of timber archi- tecture, both in point of beauty and constructive skill. Westminster Hall , which now forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament, is rich in interesting historical associations. In it were held some of the earliest English parliaments, one of 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 197 which declared Edward II. to have forfeited the crown ; and by a curious fatality the first scene of public importance in the new hall, as restored or rebuilt by Richard II., was the deposition of that unfortunate monarch. In this hall the English monarchs down to George IV. gave their coronation festivals ; and here Edward III. entertained the captive kings , David of Scotland and John of France. Here Charles I. was condemned to death; and here, a few years later (1653), Cromwell, wear- ing the royal purple lined with ermine, and holding a golden sceptre in one hand and the Bible in the other, was saluted as Lord Protector. Within eight years afterwards the Protector's body was rudely dragged from its resting-place in Westminster Abbey and thrust into a pit at Tyburn, while his head was exposed with those of Bradshaw and Ireton on the pinnacles of this same Westminster Hall, where it remained for 30 years. A high wind at last carried it to the ground. The family of the sentry who picked it up after- wards sold it to one of the Russells, a distant descendant of Crom- well, and it passed finally into the possession of Dr. Wilkinson, one of whose descendants, at Sevenoaks, Kent, is said now to possess it. There is some evidence, however, that the Protector's body, after exhumation, was buried in Red Lion Square, and that another, sub- stituted for it, was deprived of its head and buried at Tyburn. Many other famous historical characters were condemned to death in Westminster Hall , including William Wallace , the brave champion of Scotland's liberties ; Sir John Oldcastle , better known as Lord Cobham ; Sir Thomas More ; the Protector Somerset ; Sir Thomas Wyatt ; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; Guy Fawkes ; and the Earl of Strafford. Among other notable events transacted at Westminster Hall was the acquittal of the Seven Bishops, who had been committed to the Tower for their opposition to the illegal dispensing power of James II. ; the condemnation of the Scottish lords Kilmarnock , Balmerino , and Lovat ; the trial of Lord Byron (grand-uncle of the poet) for killing Mr. Chaworth in a duel ; the condemnation of Lord Ferrars for murdering his valet ; and the ac- quittal of Warren Hastings, after a trial which lasted seven years. The last public festival held in Westminster Hall was at the coronation of George IV., when the King's champion in full armour rode into the hall, and, according to ancient custom, threw his gauntlet on the floor, challenging to mortal combat anyone who might dispute the title of the sovereign. The ceremony of swearing in the Lord Mayor took place here for the last time in 1882, and is now performed in the new Law Courts (p. 144). On theE. side of the hall are placed the following marble statues (beginning from the left) : Mary, wife of William III., James 1., Charles I., Charles II., William III., George IV., William IV. From the first landing of the staircase leading to St. Stephen's Hall a narrow door to the left (E.) leads to St. Stephen's Ckypt 198 17. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. (properly the Church of St. Mary's Undercroft; not now shown), a low vaulted structure supported by columns, measuring 90 ft. in length, 28 ft. in breadth , and 20 ft. in height. It was erected by King Stephen, rebuilt by Edwards II. and III., and, after having long fallen to decay, has recently been thoroughly restored and richly decorated with painting and gilding. St. Stephen'' s Clois- ters, on the E. side of Westminster Hall, were built by Henry VIII. and have been lately restored. They are beautifully adorned with carving, groining, and tracery, but are not open to the public. The other multifarious portions of this immense pile of buildings include 18 or 20 official residences of various sizes, libraries, committee rooms, and dining, refreshment, and smoking rooms. The number of statues, outside and inside, is about five hundred. On the W. side of Westminster Hall, and to the N. of the Abbey, stands St. Margaret's Church (PI. R, 25 ; /F), which, down to 1858, used to be attended by the House of Commons in state on four days in the year , as then prescribed in the Prayer Book. It was erected in the time of Edward I. on the site of an earlier church built by Edward the Confessor in 1064, and was greatly altered and improved under Edward IV. The stained-glass window of the Crucifixion at the E. end was executed at Gouda in Holland, and is said to have been a gift from the town of Dordrecht to Henry VII. Henry VIII. presented it to Waltham Abbey. At the time of the Commonwealth it was concealed , and after various vicissitudes it was at length purchased in 1758 by the church- wardens of St. Margaret's for 400i., and placed in its present position. William Caxton, whose printing-press was set up in 1476-77 in the almonry, formerly standing near the W. front of Westminster Abbey, was buried here in 1491. From the fact of a chapel existing in the old almonry , printers' work-shops and also guild-meetings of printers are still called 'chapels'. Sir Walter Raleigh, who was executed in front of the palace of Westminster in 1618, was buried in the chancel. The church, the interior of which was restored in 1878, is open daily, 9-1 and 2-4.30, except Sat. afternoon (entr. by the E. or vestry door, facing Westminster Hall). The present in- cumbent of St. Margaret's is the eloquent Canon Farrar, who also preaches frequently in Westminster Abbey. At tlie E. end of the S. aisle is a stained-glass window placed here by the printers in 1882 in memory of Caxton, containing his portrait, with the Venerable Bede on his right and Erasmus on his left. On a tablet below the window is a verse by Tennyson, referring to Caxton's motto, '^Fiat lux'. Adjacent is a brass memorial of Raleigh. The large and hand- some window over the W. door was put up by Americans to the memory of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1882; it contains portraits of Raleigh and several of his distinguished contemporaries, and also scenes connected with the life of P.aleigh and the colonisation of America. The poetic inscription on tbe Raleigh window was written by Mr. J. Russell Lowell. There are also windows in the S. wall in memory of Lord and Lady Hatherley, Sir Thomas Krskine May (d. 1886), the great authority on Constitutional Law, etc., and also one erected in 1887 in memory of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, with an inscription by Browning. The window at the W. end of the S. 17. WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. 199 aisle commemorates Lord Frederick Cavendisli, assassinated at Dublin in 1832. At the W. end of the N. aisle is a memorial window (erected by Mr. Gr. W. Childs) to John Milton, whose second wife and infant child are buried here and whose banns are in the parish register; the inscrip- tion is by Whittier. In the N. wall are windows to Mr. Edward Lloyd (1815- 1890), printer and publisher, with a verse by Sir Edwin Arnold; to Ado- miral Blake (d. 1657), 'chief founder of England's naval supremacy', who was buried in St. Margaret's churchyard after being exhumed from West- minster Abbey; and to Mr. W. H. Smith (d. 1891), leader of the Hause of Commons under Lord Salisbury's ministries. Besides Raleigh and Cax ton, the church shelters the remains of Skelton (d. 1529), the satirist, nd James Harrington (d. 1677), author of 'Oceana'. Some of the old monu ments are interesting. In Old Palace Yard, to the S., between the Houses of Parlia- ment and Westminster Abhey, rises an Equestrian Statue of Richard Coeur de Lion, in bronze, by Marochetti. Farther on are the Vic- toria Tower Gardens, abutting on the Thames, and affording a fine view of Westminster Bridge. To the N. of St. Margaret's, in Parliament Square, is a bronze Statue of Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), in the robes of the Garter, by Raggi , unveiled in April , 1883. To the right opposite the entrance into New Palace Yard, stands the bronze Statue of the Earl of Derby (d. 1869), in the robes of a peer, 10 ft. high, by Noble, erected in 1874. The granite pedestal bears four reliefs in bronze, representing his career as a statesman. A little farther to the right is a bronze statue of Lord Palmerston (d. 1865), and on the N. side of the square is that of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850). On the W. side of the square is the bronze Statue of Canning (d. 1827), by Westmacott , near which , at the corner of Great George Street, is a handsome Gothic fountain, erected in 1863 as a memorial to the distinguished men who brought about the abolition of slavery in the British dominions. The visitor should not quit this spot without a glance at King Street , the only thoroughfare in earlier times from Whitehall to Westminster. At the N. end, demolished to make room for the new Government Offices, stood Holbein's great gate (p. 188), Spenser, the poet, spent his last days in this street, and he was carried hence to Westminster Abbey. Cromwell's mother lived here, often visited by her affectionate son; so did Dr. Sydenham, Lord North, Bishop Goodman, and at one time Oliver Cromwell himself. Through this street, humble as it now looks, all the pageants from Whitehall to the Abbey and Westminster Hall passed, whether for burial coronation, or state trials. Parliament Street was only opened in 1732, long after Whitehall had ceased to be a royal residence, and was carried through the old privy garden of Whitehall. — No. 17 Delahay Street was the residence of Judge Jeffreys (d. 1689). *We8tmin8ter Bridge (PI. R, 29; IV), erected in 1856-62, by Page, at a cost of 250,000i., on the site of an earlier stone bridge, is 1160 ft. long and 85 ft. broad (carriage-way 53 ft., side-walks each 15 ft.). It consists of seven iron arches borne by granite 200 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. buttresses, tlie central arch having a span of 120 ft., the others of 114 ft. The bridge is one of the handsomest in London, and affords an admirable view of the Houses of Parliament. It was the view from this bridge that suggested Wordsworth's fine sonnet, beginning 'Earth has not anything to show more fair'. Below the bridge, on the left bank, is the beginning of the Victoria Embankment (p. 115}; above, on the right bank, is the Albert Embankment, with the extensive Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 310). 18. Westminster Abbey. Westminster Column. Westminster School. Westminster Hospital. Royal Aquarium. On the low ground on the left bank of the Thames, where Westminster Abbey now stands , once overgrown with thorns and surrounded by water , and therefore called Thorney Isle , a church is said to have been erected in honour of St. Peter by the Anglo- Saxon king Sebert about 616. With the church was connected a Benedictine religious house fmonasterium, or minster), which, in reference to its position to the W. of the Cistercian Al3bey of St. Mary of the Graces (Eastminster ; see p. 128), was called **West- minster Abbey [PI. R, 25 ; IV). The church, after having been destroyed by the Danes, appears to have been re-erected by King Edgar in 985. The regular establish- ment of the Abbey, however, may be ascribed to Edward the Confessor, who built a church here which seems to have been almost as large as the present one (1049-65). The Abbey was entirely rebuilt in the latter half of the 13th cent, by Henry III. and his son Ed- ward I., who left it substantially in its present condition, though important alterations and additions were made in the two succeed- ing centuries. TheChapelof Henry VII. was erected by that monarch at the beginning of the 16th cent., and the towers were added by Sir C. Wren and Hawkesmore in 1722-40. The fagade of the N. transept was restored from designs by Sir G. G. Scott. At the Reformation the Abbey, which had been richly endowed by former kings , shared in the general fate of the religious houses ; its property was confiscated, and the church converted into the cathedral of a bishopric, which lasted only from Dec, 1540, to March, 1550. Under Queen Mary the monks returned, but Elizabeth restored the arrangements of Henry VIII., and conveyed the Abbey to a Dean, who presided over a chap- ter of 12 Canons. — The title Archbishop of Westminster, recently created by the Pope, is not officially recognised in England. Westminster Abbey t , with its royal burial-vaults and long series of monuments to celebrated men, is not unreasonably regarded by the English as their national Walhalla, or Temple of Fame ; and in- + The best guide to Westminster Abbey is the Deanery Ouide (illustrated) of the Pall Mall Garette (price 6(f.). 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 201 202 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY terment within its walls is considered the last and greatest honour ■which the nation can bestow on the most deserving of her offspring. The honour has often, however, been conferred on persons unworthy of it, and even on children. 'The spaciousness and gloom of this vast edifice produce a profound and mysterious awe. We step cautiously and softly about, as if fearful of disturbing tiie hallowed silence of the tomb ; while every footfall whispers along the walls, and chatters among the sepulchres, making us more sensible of the quiet we have interrupted. It seems as if the awful nature of the place presses down upon the soul, and hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence. We feel that we are surrounded by the con- gregated bones of the great men of past times , who have filled history with their deeds, and the earth with their renown'. — Washington Irving. The church is in the form of a Latin cross. The much admired chapel at the E. end is in the Perpendicular style. The other parts of the church, with the exception of the unpleasing and incongruous W. towers by Wren, and a few doubtful Norman remains, are Early English. The impression produced by the interior is very striking, owing to the harmony of the proportions, the richness of the colour- ing, and the beauty of the Purbeck marble columns and of the trl- forium. In many respects, however, the effect is sadly marred by restorations and by the egregiously bad taste displayed in several of the monuments. The choir extends beyond the transept into the nave, from which it is separated by an iron screen. In front of the altar is a curious old mosaic pavement with tasteful arabesques, brought from Rome in 1268 by Abbot Ware. The fine wood-work of the choir was executed in 1848. The organ was entirely rebuilt by Mr. Hill in 1884, and stands at the two extremities of the screen between the choir and the nave. The very elaborate and handsome reredos, erected in 1867, is chiefly composed of red and white alabaster. The large figures in the niches represent Moses, St. Peter, St. Paul, and David. The recess above the table con- tains a fine Venetian glass mosaic, by Salviati, representing the Last Supper. In the S. bay of the sanctuary is a portrait of Richard II. on panel, formerly in the Jerusalem Chamber, the oldest contemporary representation of an English sovereign. Behind it is some old tapestry from Westminster School, with the names of Westminster scholars painted on its ends. The Abbey, or, as it is officially termed, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, is now decorated with upwards of 20 stained-glass windows. The total length of the church, including the chapel of Henry VII., is 513 ft. ; length of the transept from N. to S., 200 ft. ; breadth of nave and aisles, 75 ft., of transept, 80 ft. ; height of the church, 102 ft., of towers, 225 ft. The Abbey is usually entered by the door (Solomon's Porch) in the N. transept, near St. Margaret's Church. The nave, aisles, and transept are open gratis to the public daily (Sun. excepted), except during the hours of divine service, till 4 p.m. in winter and 6 p.m. in summer. Daily service at 8.30 (8 on Sun.), 10, and 3 o'clock. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. ^03 In summer there is a special Sunday service in the nave at 7 p.m. A charge of 6d. (except onMon. andTues.) is made for admission to the chapels, vvhich are only shown to visitors accompanied by a ver- ger. Parties thus conducted start about every ^/ihr. from theS. gate of the ambulatory. Visitors are cautioned against accepting the use- less services of any of the numerous loiterers outside the church. The following list of the most interesting monuments which do not invariably imply interment in the Abbey, begins with theN. transept, and continues through the N. aisle, the S. aisle, and the S. transept (Poets' Corner), after which we enter the chapels. N. Transept. On the right, William Pitt. Lord Chatham^ the statesman (d. 1778), a large monument by Bacon. Above, in a niche, Chatham is represented in an oratorical attitude , with his right hand out- stretched ; at his feet are sitting two female figures, Wisdom and Courage ; in the centre, Britannia with a trident ; to the right and left. Earth and Sea. — Opposite — L. John Holies, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1711); large monument by Bird, in a debased style. The sarcophagus bears the semi-re- cumbent figure of the Duke ; to the right is Truth with her mirror, on the left, Wisdom ; above, on the columns and over the armorial bearings. Genii. — Adjacent — L. *George Canning, the statesman (d. 1827); statue by Chan- trey. — Adjacent, his son — L. Charles John, Viscount Canning, Governor-General of India (d. 1862), statue by Foley. Close by is their relative. Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe (d. 1880), long British ambassador in Constantinople ; statue by Boehm, with an epitaph by Tennyson. L. Sir John Malcolm, General (d. 1833), one of the chief pro- moters of the English power in India ; statue by Chantrey. Adjacent, Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), statue by Boehm. R. Lord Palmerston, the statesman (d. 1865) ; statue by Jack- son, in the costume of a Knight of the Garter. — Adjoining — R. William Bayne , William Blair , and Lord Manners , naval officers who 'were mortally wounded in the course of the naval en- gagements under the command of Admiral Sir George Brydges Rodney on the 9th and 12th of April, 1782', by Nollekens. L. William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1676), and his wife ; a double sarcophagus, with recumbent figures in the costume of the period, under a rich canopy. — Adjacent — L. *Sir Peter Warren, Admiral (d. 1752), by Roubiliac. Her- cules places the bust of the Admiral on a pedestal , while Navi- gation looks on with mournful admiration. — Opposite — R. Robert , Marquis of Londonderry and Viscount Castlereagh, the statesman (d. 1822); statue by Thomas. The scroll in his hand 204 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. bears the (now scarcely legible) inscription, 'Peace of Paris, 1814'. Next to it — L. *WUliam, Lord Mansfield, the statesman and judge [d. 1793), by FLaxman. Above is the Judge on the judicial bench , in his official robes; on the left is Justice with her scales, on the right, Wisdom opening the book of the law. Behind the bench is Lord Mansfield's motto : ' uni sequus virtuti' , with the ancient represen- tation of death, a youth bearing an extinguished torch. — Opposite, by the railing of the ambulatory — L. Sir Robert Peel, the statesman (d. 1850) ; statue by Gibson. Henry Grattan (d. 1820), Charles Fox (p. 203), and the two Pitts are all buried in this transept. It was the proximity here of the graves of Fox and the younger Pitt (p. 206) that suggested Scott's well-known lines : — 'Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, Twill trickle to his rival's bier\ W. Aisle of N. Transept. R. George Gordon, Earl of Aberdeen, the statesman (d. 1860); bust by Noble. R. *Elizabeth Warren (d. 1816), widow of the Bishop of Bangor, by Westmacott. The fine monument represents, in half life-size, a poor mother sitting with her child in her arms, in allusion to the benevolence of the deceased. — Adjoining — R. Sir George Cornewall Lewis, statesman (d. 1863); bust by Weekes. — Adjacent — R. Sir Eyre Coote, General, Commander-in-Chief of the British forces in India (d. 1788); colossal monument by Banks, erected by the East India Company. R. Francis Horner, Member of Parliament (d. 1817); statue by Chantrey. — Opposite — L. Sir John Balchen, Admiral, who in 1744 was lost with his. flag-ship and crew of nearly 1000 men in the English Channel ; with a relief of the wrecked vessel, by Scheemakers. R. General Hope, Governor of Quebec (d. 1789), by Bacon; a mourning Indian woman bends over the sarcophagus. — Above — R. Warren Hastings, Governor-General of India (d. 1818); bust by Bacon. — To the left — Richard Cobden, the politician and champion of free-trade (d. 1865); bust by Woolner. — Above — Sir Henry Maine, professor of jurisprudence and the 'friend of India' (d. 1888), marble medallion by Boehm. — R. Earl of Halifax, the statesman (d. 1771); bust by Bacon. At the end of the passage, in three niches in the wall above, separated by palm-trees, is the monument of — Admiral Watson (d. 1757), by Scheemakers. The Admiral, in a toga, is sitting in the centre, holding a palm branch. On the right the town of Calcutta on her knees presents a petition to her conqueror. On the left is an Indian in chains , emblematical of Chandernagore, also conquered by the Admiral. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 205 N. Aisle. On the left. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton (d. 1845), Member of Parliament , one of the champions of the movement for the abol- ition of slavery, by Thrupp. — Close by, W. E. Forster (d. 1886), M. P. and educationalist; medallion portrait head. — Farther on — L. Balfe (d. 1870), the composer, medallion by Mallempre. L. Hugh Chamberlain^ physician (d. 1728), by Scheemakers and Delvaux; recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus; on the right and lef^, two allegorical figures, representing Health and Medicine. li. Tablets to Charles Burney (d. 1814), the historian of music, and John Blow (d. 1708) , the composer and organist. — Then — R. William Croft, organist of the Abbey (d. 1727), with a bust. On the floor are the tombstones o'l Henry Purcell (d. 1695), organist of the Abbey, and W. Sterndale Bennet (d. 1875), the composer. L. *Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, Governor of Java and founder of the Zoological Society (d. 1826; comp, p. 237), sitting figure, by Chantrey. L. * William Wilberforce (d. 1833), one of the chief advocates for the emancipation of the slaves ; sitting figure, by Joseph. R. *George Lindsay Johnstone (d. 1815); fine monument by Flaxman, erected by the sister of the deceased. On a sarcophagus, with a small medallion of the deceased, is a mourning female figure. L. Lord John Thynne, D. D., Sub-Dean of the Abbey (d. 1881), recumbent figure by Armstead. To the left, at the end of the choir : — Sir Isaac Newton (d. 1726), by Rysbrack. The half recumbent figure of Newton reposes on a black sarcophagus, beside which are two small Genii unfolding a scroll. Below is a relief in marble, in- dicating the labours of the deceased. Above is an allegorical figure of Astronomy upon a large globe. Charles Darwin (d. 1882), the eminent naturalist, and Sir John Herschel (d. 1871), the astronomer, are buried within a few yards of Newton's tomb (memorial slabs in the floor). — The window above is a memorial of Robert Stephenson (d. 1859), the engineer. In the N. aisle, farther on : — R. Richard Mead, the physician (d. 1754), with bust, by Schee- makers. — Above, in the window : — *Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the Exchequer and First Lord of the Treasury, who was murdered at Westminster Hall in 1812, by Westmacott. Recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus ; at the head a mourning figure of Strength, and at the foot Truth and Mod- eration. The bas-relief above represents the murder ; the second figure to the left is that of the murderer, Bellingham. R. Mrs. Mary Beaufoy (d. 1705); group by Grinling Gibbons. R. Robert Killigrew , General , killed at Almanza in Spain in 1707, by Bird. — In front of this monument Ben Jonson is buried (p. 210), with the words '0 Rare Ben Johnson ! ' cut in the pave- 206 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. ment. The stone wifh the original inscription is now built into the wall close to the floor beneath Killigrew's monument. Close by, under a modern brass, lies John Hunter (d. 1793), the celebrated surgeon and anatomist, brought here in 1859 from St. Martin's in the Fields. — The window above was erected to the memory of Isambard Brunei (d. 1859), the engineer. R., above, Sir Charles Lyell^ the geologist (d. 1875), bust by Theed. R. * Charles James Fox , the famous statesman (d. 1806), by Wesimacott. The figure of the deceased lies on a couch, and is supported by the arms of Liberty ; at his feet are Peace, with an olive branch, and a liberated negro slave. We have now reached the Belfry Tower, called by Dean Stanley the 'Whig Corner'. R. *Captain Montagu (d. 1794), by Flaxman. Statue on a lofty pedestal, crowned by the Goddess of Victory. R. Sir James Mackintosh, the historian (d, 1832); bust by Theed. R. George Tierney , the orator (d. 1830); bust by Westmacott. R. Marquis of Lansdowne (d. 1863); bust "by Boehm. R. Lord Holland, the statesman (d. 1840); large monument, by Baily. Below is the entrance to a vault, on the steps to which on the left the Angel of Death , and on the right Literature and Science are posted. R. John, Earl Russell (d. 1878), bust. R. Zachary Macaulay (d. 1838), the father of Lord Macaulay, and a noted advocate for the abolition of slavery; bust by Weekes Having now reached the end of the N. aisle, we turn to the left (S.), where on the N. side of the principal (W.) Entrance, at the end of the nave, we observe the monuments of — Antony Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury (d. 1885), a marble statue by Boehm, and — Jeremiah Horrocks, the astronomer (d. 1641). Above the door is the monument of — *William Pitt, the renowned statesman [d. 1806), by Westma- cott. At the top stands the statue of Pitt as Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the act of speaking. To the right is History listen- ing to his words ; on the left. Anarchy in chains. On the S. side of the door is the monument of Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (d. 1732), by Cheere. R. James Cornewall, Captain [d. 1743), by Tayler. At the foot of a low pyramid of Sicilian marble is a grotto in white marble, with a relief of the naval battle of Toulon, where Cornewall fell. The mon- ument terminates above in a palm-tree with the armorial bearings. S. Aisle. In the baptistery at the W. end : — James Craggs, Secretary of State (d. 1721); statue hy Guelphi^ with inscription by Pope. William Wordsworth, the poet (d. 1850); statue by Lough. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 207 Rev. John Keble (d. 1866); bust by Woolner. The baptistery also contains busts, by Woolner, of the Rev. Fred. D. Maurice (d. 1872) and the Rev. Charles Kingsley (d. 1875), one of Matthew Arnold (d. 1888) by Bruce Joy, and a bronze me- dallion o{ Professor Henry Fawcett (d. 1884), by Alfred Oilbert, with a row of small allegorical flgxires. The stained-glass windows were placed here by Mr. George W. Childs of Philadelphia in memory of Oeorge Herbert (d. 1632) and William Cowper (d. 1800). We now continue to follow the S. aisle. Slab on the floor: Bishop Atterbury (d. 1732). To the right, above the door leading to the Deanery, is the Abbot's Pew, a small oaken gallery, constructed by Abbot Islip in the 16th century. On the right: William Congreve, the dramatist (d. 1728), by Bird, with a medallion and a sarcophagus of Egyptian marble. The monument was erected by Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough. R. William Buckland, the geologist (d. 1856), bust by Weekes. R. Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Governor-General of India ; bust by Woolner. — Above the door to the cloisters (see p. 223) — *George Wade, General (d. 1748) , by Roubiliac. The Goddess of Fame is preventing Time from destroying the General's trophies, which are attached to a column. R. Sir James Outram, General (d. 1863); bust by Noble. Below are Outram and Lord Clyde shaking hands, and between them is General Havelock. At the sides are mourning figures, representing Indian tribes. — Above, occupying the whole recess of the window — R. William Hargrove, General (d. 1750), by Roubiliac. The General is descending from his sarcophagus, while Time, represent- ed allegorically, conquers Death and breaks his arrow. — Adjacent is a tablet recording the burial in the Nave uf Sir William Temple (d. 1699) and his wife, Dorothy Osborne (d. 1695). Sidney, Earl Godolphin (A. 17 IT), Lord High Treasurer, hy Bird. R. Colonel Townshend, who fell in Canada in 1759, 'by Eck- stein. Two Indian warriors bear the white marble sarcophagus, which is adjoined by a pyramid of coloured Sicilian marble. R. John Andre, Major, executed in America as a spy in 1780. Sarcophagus with mourning Britannia, by Van Gelder. On this mon- ument is a wreath of autumn leaves, a gift from America. — Oppo- site, in the nave, by the end of the choir : — James , Earl Stanhope , ambassador and minister of war (d, 1720), by Rysbrack. — Then, returning to the S. aisle : — L. Thomas Thynn, murdered in Pall Mall in 1682 by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck , whose object was the hand of Thynne's wife, a wealthy heiress, by Quellin. The relief on the pedestal is a representation of the murder. R. Dr. Isaac Watts, the famous divine and hymn-writer (d. 1748), with bust by Banks. R. John Wesley, founder of the Methodists (d. 1791), and Charles Wesley (d. 1788), by Van Qelder, relief by Adams-Acton. 208 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. R. Charles Burney, philologist (d. 1818); bust ty Gahagan. L. Thomas Owen, judge (d. 1598); an interesting old painted monument, with a life-size recumhent figure leaning on the right arm. — By the adjoining pillar — L. Pasquale Paoli the well-known Corsican general (d. 1807), formerly huried in old St. Pancras Churchyard, but transferred to Corsica in 1889; bust by Flaxman. — Opposite — R. Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Admiral (d. 1707), by Bird, recumbent figure under a canopy. — Above — Sir Godfrey Kneller, the painter (d. 1723), hy Rysbrack; bust under a canopy. The monument was designed by Kneller himself, who is the only painter commemorated in the abbey. He waa buried in his own garden, at Kneller Hall, Twickenham. Here is a door leading to the E. walk of the cloisters and to the chapter-house [p. 223). L. Sir Thomas Richardson, judge fd. 1634), old monument by Le Soeur. L. Dr. Andrew Bell, the founder of the Madras system of edu- cation (d. 1832), with relief representing him examining a class of boys, by Behnes. In the middle of the nave lie, amongst others, David Living- stone, the celebrated African traveller (d. 1873), Sir Charles Barry, the architect (d. 1860), Robert Stephenson, the engineer (d. 1859), Lord Clyde (d. 1863), Sir James Outram (d. 1863 ; the 'Bayard of India'), Sir George Pollock (d. 1872), Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Sir G. G. Scott, the architect (d. 1878 ; with a brass by Street), and G. E. Street (d. 1881), the architect of the New Law Courts. We now turn to the right and enter the — S. Transept and Pobts' Corner. On the right: George Grote (d. 1871) and Bishop Thirlwall (d. 1875), two historians of Greece who now share one grave. Grote's bust is by Bacon. R. William Camden, the antiquary (d. 1623). Above — David Garrick, the famous actor (d. 1779) ; large group in relief, by Webber. Garrick is stepping out from behind a curtain, which he opens with extended arms. Below are the comic and the tragic Muse. — Below — Isaac Casaubon, the scholar (d. 1614). On this stone, near the foot, is the monogram I. W., scratched here by Izaak Walton in 1658. — Above — John Ernest Grabe , the Oriental scholar (d. 1711); sittiog figure by Bird. — Several uninteresting monuments ; then - — Isaac Barrow, the scholar and mathematician (d. 1677). Joseph Addison, the essayist (d. 1719; p. 215); statue by Westmacott. On the base are the Muses in relief. Lord Macaulay, the historian (d. 1859); bust by Burnard. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 209 W. M. Thackeray, the novelist and humorist (d. 1863); bust by Marochetti. — Above — Oeorge Frederick Handel, the composer (d. 1759), the last work from the chisel of Roubiliac; life-size statue surrounded by music and instruments ; above, among the clouds, a heavenly choir ; in the background, an organ. — Below, Jenny Lind Ooldschmidt, the singer (d. 1887) ; medallion portrait-head, by Birch. Sir Archibald Campbell, General (d. 1791), by Wilton. — Below, to the right — James Stuart Mackenzie, Lord Privy Seal for Scotland (d. 1800); medallion-portrait, by Nollekens. — By the S. wall : — *John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743) ; a large monu- ment by Roubiliac. On a black sarcophagus rests the half-recumb- ent, life-size figure of the Duke, supported by History, who is writing his name on a pyramid. On the pedestal, to the left. Elo- quence ; to the right, Valour. Above the doorway of the chapel of St. Blaise (p. 224) : — Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), buried at the Temple (p. 142); medallion by Nollekens. — Then — John Oay, the poet (d. 1732), 'by Rysbrack, A small Genius holds the medallion. The irreverent inscription, by Gay himself, runs: — 'Xi/e is a jest ;and all things show it : I thought so once, but now I know it\ Nicolas Rowe, the poet (d. 1718), and his only daughter, by Rysbrack. Above, the medallion of the daughter. — Then — James Thomson, the poet of the 'Seasons' (d. 1748) ; statue by Spang. — Adjacent — * William Shakspeare (d. 1616), designed by Z^en<, and executed by Scheemakers. The figure of the Poet, placed on a pedestal re- sembling an altar , is represented with the right arm leaning on a pile of his works ; the left hand holds a roll bearing the titles of his chief writings. On the pedestal are the masks of Queen Eliza- beth, Henry V., and Richard III. Above, Robert Burns (d. 1796), bust by Steell. Robert Southey, the poet (d. 1843), bust by Weekes. 8. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834), bust hyHamo Thornycroft. — Then, opposite Addison's statue — Thomas Campbell, thepoet(d. 1844), statue hy Marshall. — The grave of Charles Dickens (d. 1870) is between the statues of Ad- dison and Campbell, and is surrounded by the tombs of Handel, Sheridan, and Cumberland. Garrick, Dr. Johnson, and Macaulay are also buried here. Passing round the pillar we now enter the — E. Aisle of the Poets' Cobnbr. On the right. Granville Sharp (d. 1813), one of the chief ad- vocates for the abolition of slavery, medallion by Chantrey. — Above : Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 14 210 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Charles de St. Denis, Seigneur de St. Evremont, author, French Marshal, afterwards in the service of England (d. 1703), bust. — Below — Matthew Prior, politician and poet (d. 1721), large monument by Rysbrack. In a niche is Prior's bust by Coyzevox (presented by Louis XIV. of France); below, a black sarcophagus, adjoined by two allegorical figures of (r.) History and (1.) Thalia. At the top are two boys, with a torch and an hour-glass. — Then — William Mason, the poet (d. 1797) ; medallion, mourned over by Poetry, by Bacon. — Over it — Thomas Shadwell, the poet (d. 1692), by Bird. — Below — Thomas Gray, the poet (d. 1771); medallion, held by the Muse of poetry, by Bacon. — Above — John Milton (ji. 1674; buried in St. Giles's Church, Oripplegate), bust by Rysbrack (1737). Below is a lyre, round which is twining a serpent with an apple, in allusion to 'Paradise Lost'. — Below — Edmund Spenser (d. 1598; buried near Chaucer), 'the prince of poets in his tyme', as the inscription says ; a simple, altar-like mon- ument, with ornaments of light-coloured marble above. — Above — Samuel Butler, author of 'Hudibras' (d. 1680), with bust. — Then : Ben Jonson (d. 1637), poet-laureate to James I., and contem- porary of Shakspeare ; medallion by Rysbrack (1737) ; on the pede- stal the inscription, '0 rare Ben Johnson I' (comp. p. 205). — Michael Drayton, the poet (d. 1631), with bust. Barton Booth, the actor (d. 1733), an ancestor of Edwin Booth, with medallion, by Tyler. John Phillips, the poet (d. 1708) ; portrait in relief. The tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer (d. 1400), the father of English poetry, is on the same side, close by, and consists of an altar-sarcoph- agus (supposed to be from Grey Friars Church, p. 92) under a canopy let into the wall (date, 1556). The tomb was erected by Nicholas Brigham (d. 1558), who is said to have removed Chaucer's remains from the cloister. — Above it is a fine stained-glass window, erect- ed in 1868, with scenes from Chaucer's poems, and a likeness of the poet. Abraham Cowley, the poet (d. 1667), with urn, hy Bushnell. Robert Browning, the poet (d. 1889), is buried directly in front of Cowley's monument; and side by side with him lies Lord Tennyson, poet laureate (d. 1892). H. W. Longfellow, the poet (d. 1882), bust by Brock. John Dryden, the poet (d. 1700) ; bust by Scheemakers. Archbishop Tail (d. 1883); marble bust by Armstead (at the entrance to the choir-ambulatory). Robert South, the preacher (d. 1716) ; statue by Bird. Richard Busby (d. 1695 ; see p. 224) ; statue by Bird. In front of Dryden's tomb is a blue slab in the floor, believed to commemorate Robert Handle, murdered in the choir in 1378 by the 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 211 followers of John of Gaunt. The church was closed for four months until the outraged privileges of sanctuary were again confirmed to it. — In the centre of the 8. transept is a white slab, covering the remains of 'Old Parr' (d. 1635), who is said to have reached the age of 152 years. To the left of the entrance to the ambulatory is an old altar- decoration of the 13th or 14th cent., below which is the old monument of the Saxon king Sebert (d. 616) and his wife Athelgoda (d. 615). We now repair to the *Chapels, which follow each other in the following order (starting from the Poets' Corner). I. Chapbl of St. Benedict. 1. Archbishop Langham{^. 1376) ; with recumbent figure. 2. Lady Frances Hertford (d. 1598). 3. Br. Ooodman, Dean of Westminster (d. 1601). 4. A son of Dr. Spratt. *5. Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex (d. 1645), Lord High Treasurer in the time of James I., and his vnfe. 6. Dr. Bill(^di. 1561), first Dean of Westminster under Elizabeth. I 3 I ! i_ 5 2 6 1 Near this is the tomb of Ann of Cleves (d. 1557), fourth wife of Henry VIII. II. Chapel of St. Edmund, King of the East Anglians. *1. John of Eltham, second son of Edward II., who died in 1334 in his nineteenth year. Sarcophagus with life-size alabaster figure. 2. Earl of Stafford (d. 1762) ; slab, by Chambers. 3. Nicholas Monk (d. 1661), Bishop of Hereford, brother of the famous Duke of Albemarle (p. 215) ; slab and pyramid, by Woodman. 4. William of Windsor and Blanche de la Tour (d. 1340), children of Edward III., who both died young ; ',small sarcophagus, with recumbent alabaster figures 20 in. in length. 5. Duchess of Suffolk (d. 1558), granddaughter of Henry VII. and mother of Lady Jane Grey ; recumbent figure. 6. Francis Holies, son of the Earl of Clare, who died in 1622, at the age of 18, on his return from a campaign in Flanders, in which he had greatly distinguished himself; sitting figure, hy Stone. 7. Lady Jane Seymour (d. 1560), daughter of the Duke of Somerset. 14* 212 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 8. Lady Katharine Knollya (d. 1568), cMef Lady of the Bed- chamber to Queen Elizabeth, niece of Anne Boleyn, and grand- mother of the Queen's favourite, the Earl of Essex. 9. Lady Elizabeth Russell (d. 1601), a handsome sitting figure of alabaster, in an attitude of sleep. The Latin inscription says, 'she sleeps, she is not dead'. 10. Lord John Russell [d. 1584), and his son Francis ; sarco- phagus with a recumbent figure, resting on the left arm, in official robes, with the boy at the feet. 11. Sir Bernard Brocas of Beaurepaire, Chamberlain to Queen Anne, wife of Richard II., beheaded on Tower Hill in 1399 ; an interesting old monument in the form of a Gothic chapel, with re- cumbent figure of a praying knight ; at the feet, a lion. 12. Sir Humphrey Bourgchier, partisan of Edward IV., who fell Chapel of St. Edmund. on Easter Day, 1471, at the battle of Barnet Field. Altar monument, with the figure of a knight, the head resting on a helmet, one foot on a leopard, and the other on an eagle. 13. Sir Richard Pecksall (d. 1571), Master of the Buckhounds to Queen Elizabeth; canopy with three niches. *14. Edward Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury {A. 1617), and his wife; figures lying under a canopy on a slab of black marble with a pedestal of alabaster. 15. William de Valence, jEarZ o/" Pem&rofcc, who fell at Bayonne in 1296 ; recumbent wooden figure, overlaid with metal, the feet resting on a lion. 16. Robert de Waldeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397), once an Augustinian monk and the companion of Edward the Black Prince in France , tutor to Richard II. ; mediaeval monument, with en- graved figure. *17. Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, Abbess of Bark- ing [d. 1399), one of the most interesting monuments in the Abbey. Her husband was smothered at Calais between two feather-beds by 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 213 order of Ri chard II, , his nephew. She is represented in the dress of a nun of Barking. The inscription is in old French. 18. Mary, Countess of Stafford (d. 1693), wife of Lord Stafford, who was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1680. 19. Dr. Feme, Bishop of Chester, Grand Almoner of Charles I. (d. 1661). Edward Dulwer Lytton, the novelist (d. 1873), and Lord Her- bert of Cherbnry (d. 1678) are buried under slabs in this chapel. III. Chapel of St. Nicholas, Bishop of Myra. 1. Lady Cecil, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth (d. 1591). 2. Lady Jane Clifford, daughter ofthe Duke ofSomerset(d. 1679). 3. Countess of Beverley ; small tombstone with the inscription, 'Esperance en Dieu (d. 1812), by NoUekens. 4. Anne, Duchess of Somerset (d. 1587), widow of the Protector Chapel of St. Nicholas, (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1552, see p. 126), and sister-in-law of Jane Seymour, third wife of Henry "VIII. ; recumbent figure. 5. Westmoreland Family. — Above — 6. Baron Carew (d. 1470) and his wife , mediaeval monument, with kneeling figures. 7. Nicholas Bagenall (d. 1687), overlain by his nurse when an infant. *8. Lady Mildred Burleigh (d. 1588), wife of Lord Burleigh, the famous minister, and her daughter Anne. Lady Burleigh, says the epitaph, was well versed in the Greek sacred writers, and founded a scholarship at St. John's College, Oxford. Recumbent figures. 9. William Dudley, Bishop of Durham (d. 1483). 10. Anna Sophia Harley (d. 1601), the infant daughter of a French ambassador. 11. Lady Ross fd. 1591); mediaeval monument. 12. Marchioness of Winchester (d. 1586). 13. Duchess of Northumberland (d. 1776), by Read. 214 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 14. Philippa de Bohun, Duchess of York (d. 1431), wife of Edward Plantagenet, who fell at Agiiicourtliil415. Old monument with effigy of the deceased in long drapery. *15. Sir George Villiers (d. 1605) and his wife [d. 1632), the parents of the Duke of Buckingham, favourite of James I. ; mon- ument with recumbent figures , in the centre of the chapel , by Stone. — The remains of Katherine of Valois , wife of Henry V. fd. 1437), lay below this tomb for 350 years (comp. p. 218). 16. Sir Humphrey Stanley (d. 1505). Opposite us, on leaving this chapel, under the tomb of Henry V., is a bronze laust of Sir Robert Aiton, the poet (1570-1638), executed by Farelli from a portrait by Van Dyck. Alton was secretary of two Queens Consort and a friend of Jonson, Drummond, and Hobbes. The earliest known version of 'Auld Lang Syne' was written by him, IV. A flight of twelve black marble steps now leads into the **Chapel of Henry VII., a superb structure erected in 1502-20 on the site of an old chapel of the Virgin Mary. The roses in the decoration of the fine brass-covered gates are an allusion to the marriage of Henry VII., founder of the Tudor family, with Eliza- beth, daughter of Edward IV. , which united the Houses of York and Lancaster, and put an end to the Wars of the Roses (comp. p. 142). The chapel consists of nave and aisles, with five small chapels at the E. end. The aisles are entered by doors on the right and left of the main gate. On the left stands the font. The chapel contains about 100 statues and figures. On each side are carved choir-stalls in dark oak , admirably designed and beautifully exe- cuted ; the quaint carvings on the 'misereres' under the seats are worthy of examination. Each stall is appropriated to a Knight of the Order of the Bath, the lower seats being for the squires. Each seat bears the armorial bearings of its occupant in brass, and above each are a sword and banner. The chief glory of this chapel, however, is its fan tracery ceiling with its fantastic pendentives, each surface being covered with rich fret-work, exhibiting the florid Perpendicular style in its utmost luxuriance. The airiness, elegance, and richness of this exquisite work can scarcely be over-praised. The best survey of the chapel is gained either from the entrance door, or from the small chapel at the opposite extremity, behind the monument of the founder, whose portrait is to be seen in the stained-glass window above. 'On entering, the eye is astonislied by the pomp of architecture, and the elaborate beauty of sculptured detail. The very walls are wrought into universal ornament, incrusted with tracery, and scooped into niches, crowded with the statues of saints and martyrs. Stone seems, by the cunning labour of the chisel, to have been robbed of its weight and density, suspended aloft, as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with the wonderful minuteness and airy security of a cobweb.' — Washington Irving. We first turn our attention to the S. aisle of the chapel, where we observe the following monuments: *1. Lady Mar5rare«I>owj^ia5(d. 1577), daughter of Margaret, Queen 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 215 of Scotland, great-granddaughter of Edward IV., granddaughter of Henry VII., niece of Henry VIII., cousin of Edward VI., sister of James V. of Scotland, mother of Henry I. of Scot- land (Lord Darnley), and grandmother of James VI. Her seven children kneel round the sarcophagus ; the eighth figure is her grandson. King James. 2. Mary, Queen of Scots, beheaded in 1587, an inartistic monument by -Sfione (d. 1607), represent- ing a recumbent figure under a canopy, in a pray- ing attitude. The remains of the Queen are buried in a vault below the monu- ment. Adjacent, on the wall, hangs a photographic copy of the warrant issued by James I. in 1612 for the removal of his mo- ther's body from Peter- borough Cathedral to Westminster Abbey. 3. Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. (d 1509); recumbent metal effigy, by Torregiano. 4. Lady Walpole (d. 1737) , first wife of Sir Robert Walpole, executed by Valori after an ancient statue of Livia or Pudicitia in the Villa Mattel, Rome, and brought from Italy by her son, Horace Walpole. 5. Oeorge Monk, Duke of Albemarle (d. 1670), the restorer of the Stuarts, by Scheemakers. Rostral column, with life-size figure of the Duke. In Monk's vault, which is in the N. aisle, are also buried Addison (d. 1719; p. 208) and Secretary Craggs (d. 1721). In the vault in front of it are buried Entrance Charles II., William III. and Queen \ Mary his wife, and Queen Anne and her consort Prince George of Denmark. We now enter the nave, which contains the following monuments (beginning from the chapel on the left) : — [\ 3 Q Q South Aisle of the Chapel of Henri VII. 216 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 1. George Villiers^ Duke of Buckingham, the favonrite of Jamesl. and Charles I., murdered in 1628 by the fanatic Felton, and his consort. The monument is of iron. At the feet of the recumbent effigies of the deceased is Fame blowing a trumpet. At the front corners of the sarcophagus are Neptune and Mars, at those at the back two mourning females, all in a sitting posture. At the top, on their knees, are the life-size children of the deceased. 2. John Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire (d. 1721), and his wife, by Scheemakers. The figure of the Duke is half-recumbent, and in Roman costume. At his feet is the duchess, weeping. Above is Time with the medallions. Anne of Denmark (d. 1618), consort of James I, is interred in front of this monument. *3. Duke of Montpensier (d. 1807), brother of King Louis Phi- lippe, recumbent figure in white marble, by Westmacott. Dean Stanley (d. 1881 ; recumbent statue by Boehm"), and his wife. Lady Augusta Stanley (d. 1876), are buried in this chapel. 4. Esme Stuart, who died in 1661, in his eleventh year; pyr- amid with an urn containing the heart of the deceased. In the E. chapel were interred Oliver Cromwell and some of his followers, removed in 1661. 5. Lewis Stuart, Duke of Richmond (d. 1623), father^s cousin and friend of James I., and his wife. Double sarcophagus with re- cumbent figures. The iron canopy is borne by figures of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Wisdom. Above is a fine figure of Fame. *6. Henry VII. (d. 1509) and his wife iJiiza&ef/i of York (d. 1502); metal monument, by Torregiano. It occupies the centre of the eastern part of the chapel, and is enclosed by a tasteful chantry of brass. On the double sarcophagus are the recumbent figures of the royal pair in their robes. The compartments at the sides of the tomb are embellished with sacred representations. — James I, (d. 1625) is buried in the same vault as Henry VH. George II. and a number of members of the royal family are interred , without monuments , in front of the tomb of Henry VII. Also Edward VI. (d. 1553), whose monument by Torregiano was destroyed by the Republicans, and is replaced by a modern Renais- sance altar (No. 7 in plan, p. 216). The marble frieze and two of the columns, however, belong to the original. To the left is the tomb of Elizabeth Claypole (d. 1658), second daughter of Oliver Cromwell, marked by an inscription in the pavement. — Adjacent is an old pulpit of the Reformation period, probably the one in which Cranmer preached the coronation and funeral sermons of Edward VI. The monuments in the northern aisle of this chapel are not less interesting than those in the southern. *1. Queen Elizabeth (d. 1603), by Stone. Here also is comme- morated Elizabeth's sister and predecessor Mary (d. i558), who is buried beneath. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 217 I 3 North Aisle of the Cha- pel of Henry VII. E Entrance. 2. Sophia, daugliter of James I., who was born in 1607, and died when three days old. Small recumbent figure in a cradle. 3. Edward V. and his brother, the Duke of York, the sons of Edward IV. , murdered in the Tower when chil- dren, by Richard III., in 1483. Some bones, supposed to be those of the un- fortunate boys, were found in a chest below a staircase in the Tower (see p. 122), and brought hither. Small sarcophagus in a niche. 4. Mary, daughter of James I., who died in 1607 at the age of two years. Small altar- tomb. 5. George Saville, Marquis of Hali- fax, Lord Keeper of the Privy Seal during several reigns (d, 1695). 6. Charles Montague, Earl of Hali- fax, Lord High Treasurer (d. 1715). — The earl was the patron of Addison (d. 1719; p. 215), who is commemorated by a slab in front of this monument. After quitting the Chapel of Henry VII. and descending the steps, we see in front of us the Chantry of Henry V. (p. 218), with its finely sculptured arch, over which is represented the coronation of that monarch (1413). A slab on the floor marks the vault of the Earls of Clarendon, including the distinguished historian (d. 1674). V. Chapel of St. Paul. 1. Sir Rowland Hill (1795-1879), the originator of the system of penny postage ; bust by Keyworth. 2. Sir Henry Belasyse (d. 1717), Lieutenant-General and Gov- ernor of Galway. Pyramid by Scheemakers. 3. Sir John Puckering (d. 1596), Keeper of the Great Seal under Queen Elizabeth, and his wife. Recumbent figures under a canopy. 4. Sir James Fullerton (d. 1630), First Gentleman of the Bed- chamber to Charles I., and his wife. Recumbent marble figures. 5. Sir Thomas Bromley (d. 1587), Lord Chancellor under Queen Elizabeth. Recumbent figure ; below, his eight children. 6. Sir Dudley Carleton (d. 1631), diplomatist under James I.; semi-recumbent figure, by Stone. 7. Countess of Sussex (d. 1589) ; at her feet is a porcupine. 8. Lord Cottington, statesman in the reign of Charles I. (d. 1652), and his wife. Handsome black marble monument, with the recumbent figure of Lord Cottington in white marble, by Fanelliy and, at the top, a bust of Lady Cottington (d. 1633), by Le Soeur. *9. James Watt (d. 1819), the improver of the steam-engine ; colossal figure in a sitting posture, by Chantrey. 218 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. *10. Sir Giles Daubeney (d. 1507), Lord-Lieutenant of Calais under Henry VII., and Ms wife. Recumbent effigies in alabaster, painted. 11. Lewis Robsart (d. 1431), standard-bearer of Henry V. ; an interesting old monument, without an effigy. Chapel of St. Paul. This chapel contains an ancient stone coffin found in digging the grave of Sir Rowland Hill. To the right, on leaving this chapel, is a monument to William Pulteney^ Earl of Bath (d. 1764), by Wilton:, and beside it another to Rear-Admiral Charles Holmes (d. 1761), also by Wilton. Op- posite is a screen of wrought iron executed by an English black- smith in 1293. *VI. Chapel of St. Edward thb Confessor, forming the end of the choir, to which we ascend by a small flight of narrow steps. (The following chapel, No. VII., is sometimes shown before this.) 1. *Henry III. (d. 1272), a rich and artistic monument of por- phyry and mosaic, with recumbent bronze effigy of the King, by William Tor el (1290). 2. (?ween.Bfeanor, first wife of Edward L (d. 1290), hy Torel. The inscription is in quaint old French: — 'Ici gist Alianor, jadis reyne d'Angleterre, femme a Rey Eduard Fiz'. Recumbent metal effigy. 3. Chantry of Henry V. (d. 1422). On each side a life-size figure keeps guard by the steps. The recumbent effigy of the King wants the head, which was of solid silver, and was stolen during the reign of Henry VIII. In 1878 the remains of Katherine of Va- lois(d.l437), queenof Henry V. (the 'beautiful Kate' of Shakspeares 'Henry V.') were re-interred in this chantry, whence they had been removed on the building of Henry VII. 's. Chapel. On the bar above this monument are placed the saddle, helmet, and shield said to have been used by Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt. 4. Philippa (d. 1369), wife of Edward III., and mother of four- teen children. She was the daughter of the Count of Hainault, and 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 219 1 11 12 c^ was related to no fewer than thirty crowned heads, statuettes of whom were formerly to be seen grouped round the sarcophagus. 5. Edward III. (d. 1377), recumbent metal figure on a sarcophagus of grey marble. This monument was once sur- rounded by statuettes of the King's children and others. The pavement in front of it dates from 1260. 6. Margaret Woodville (d. 1472), a daughter of Ed- ward IV., who died in in- fancy. Monument without an effigy. 7. Richard II., murdered on St. Valentine's Day, 1399, and his queen. The wooden canopy bears an old and cu- rious representation of the Saviour and the Virgin. 8. The old Coronation Chair, of oak, made by Ed- ward I., and — 9. The new Coronation Chair, made in 1689 for Queen Mary, wife of William III., on the model of the old one, and last used by Queen Adelaide in 1831. The former contains under the seat the famous -Sfone of »Scone, the emblem of the power of the Scottish Princes, and traditionally said to be that once used by the patriarch Jacob as a pillow. It is a piece of sandstone from the W. coast of Scotland, and may very probably be the actual stone pillow on which the dying head of St. Columba rested in the Abbey of lona. This stone was brought to London by Edward I. in 1297, in token of the complete subjugation of Scotland. Every English monarch since that date has been crown- ed in this chair. On the coronation day the chairs are covered with gold brocade and taken into the choir of the Abbey, on the other side of the partition in front of which they now stand. Between the chairs are the state sword and shield of Edward III. (d. 1377). The reliefs on the screen separating Edward's chapel from the choir, executed in the reign of Edward IV., represent the principal events in the life of the Confessor. 10. Edward I. (d. 1307), a simple slab without an effigy. The inscription is : — 'Eduardus primus, Scottorum malleus, hie est (^here lies Edward I., the hammer of the Scots). The body was recently found to be in remarkably good preservation, with a Cliapel of St. Edward tlie Confessor. 220 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. crown of gilded tin on the head, and a copper gilt sceptre in the hand. *11. Edward the Confessor (d. 1066), a large mediaeval shrine, the faded splendour of which is still traceable, in spite of the spoliations of relic-hunters. The shrine was erected by order of Henry III. in 1269, and cost, according to an authentic record, 2661. 4s. Sd. 12. Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Oloucester, murdered at Calais in 1397. 13. John ofWaltham(i. 1395), Bishop of Salisbury, recumbent metal effigy. Opposite the Chapel of Edward the Confessor is the entrance to the Chapel or Shrine of St. Erasmus , a picturesque archway, borne by clustered columns, dating from about 1484. Passing through this chapel, we enter the — VII. Chapel of St. John the Baptist. 1. Sir Thomas Vaughan (d. 1483), Lord High Treasurer of Edward IV. Old monument, with a brass, which is much defaced. 2. Colonel Edward Popham (d. 1651), officer in Cromwell's army, and his wife. Upright figures. 3. Thomas Carey, son of the Earl of Monmouth, Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles I., who died in 1648, aged 33 years, from grief at the misfortunes of his royal master. 4. Hugh de Bohun and his sister Man/ (d. 1300), grandchildren of Edward I. ; tombstone of grey marble. Chapel of St. John the Baptist. 5. Henry Carey, Baron Hunsdon, cousin of Queen Elizabeth (d. 1596). Rich canopy without an effigy. 6. Countess of Mexborough (d. 1821), small altar-tomb. 7. William of Colchester, Abbot of Westminster (d. 1420); a mediaival stone monument with the recumbent figure of the pre- late, his head supported by angels, and his feet resting on a lamb. Above this monument is a slab with a mourning Genius by 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 221 Nollekens, erected to the memory of Lieut. Col. MacLeod, who fell at the siege of Badajoz, at the age of 26. 8. Thomas Ruthall, Bishop of Durham under Henry VIII., who died in 1524, leaving great wealth. Mediaeval recumbent figure. 9. Thomas Milling, Abbot of Westminster [d. 1492) ; canopy without a figure. 10. G. Fascet, Abbot of Westminster (d. 1500). A slab in front of this tomb, with an inscription by Dean Stan- ley, marks the resting-place of the third Earl of Essex {d. 1646), the only prominent Parliamentarian in the Abbey not disinterred at the Restoration. 11. Mary Kendall (d. 1710) ; kneeling female figure. 12. Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter (d. iQ22'), Privy Councillor under James I., and his wife. His wife lies on his right hand ; the space on his left was destined for his second wife, who, however, declined to be buried there , as the place of honour on the right had already been assigned to her predecessor. VIII. The small Chapel of Abbot Islip exhibits the rebus of its founder, 'I slip', in several parts of the carving. The tomb of Abbot Islip (d. 1532), destroyed by the Roundheads, is now represented by a kind of table by the window. The chapel also contains the tomb of Sir Christopher Hatton,(d. 1619), nephew of the famous Lord Chancellor, and his wife. — A room above this chapel (adm. 3d. on Men. and Tues., on other days 6d.) contains the remains of the curious Wax Effigies which were once used at the funerals of per- sons buried in the Abbey. Among them are Queen Elizabeth (re- stored in 1760), Charles II., William III. and his wife Mary, Queen Anne, General Monk, the Duchess of Buckinghamshire, the Duch- ess of Richmond (comp. p. 330) , William Pitt , Earl of Chatham, and Lord Nelson. The last-mentioned two are not funeral-figures. In the ambulatory, near the chapel of Edward the Confessor, is the ancient monument of the Knight Templar, Edmund Crouchback (d. 1296), second son of Henry III., from whom the House of Lan- caster derived its claims to the English throne. On the sarcophagus are remains of the figures of the ten knights who accompanied Edmund to the Holy Land. Adjacent is the monument of another Knight Templar, Aymer de Valence [d. 1323) , Earl of Pembroke and cousin of Edward I., who was assassinated in France. The beautiful effigy of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster (i. 1273), first wife of Edmund Crouchback , on an adjoining monument (seen from the choir), merits notice. To the right is a large marble monument, executed by Wilton, to General Wolfe (buried in St. Alphage's, Greenwich), who fell in 1759 at the capture of Quebec. He is represented sinking into the arms of a grenadier, while his right hand is pressed on his mortal wound ; the soldier is pointing out to the hero the Goddess of Fame hovering overhead. At the side is a mourning Highlander. 222 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. o Tar © E Opposite is the monument of John, Earl Ligonier and Viscount of InniskiUing, Field-Marshal (d. 1770), by Moore. IX. Chapels of St. John the Evangelist, St. Michael, and St. Andrew, three separate chapels, now combined. 1. Sir John Franklin (d. 1847), lost in endeavouring to discover the North West Passage, by Noble. Inscription by Tennyson. 2. Earl Mountrath (d. 1771), and his wife 5 by Wilton. An angel points out to the Count emptess they seat beside her husband. 5. Earl of Kerry (d. iSiS), and his wife ; a marble sarco- phagus with an earl's coro- net, by J5wcfe/iam. Altar- tomb. 4. Telford, the engineer (d. 1834); huge statue by Baily. 6. John Kemble (dA&l3\ the actor, in the character of Cato ; statue by Flaxman. 6. Dr. Baillie (d. 1823) ; bust by Chantrey. 7. (above) Susannah Da- vidson, daughter of a rich merchant of Rotterdam (d. 1767), by Hayward. Altar- tomb with head. 8. Mrs. Siddons, the fa- mous actress (d. 1831) ; statue by Chantrey, after Reynolds's picture of her as the Tragic Muse. 9. Sir James Simpson (d. 1870), the discoverer of the value of chloroform as an an- aesthetic ; bust by Brodie. *10. LordNorris(d.imi\ son of Sir Henry Norris who was executed with the ill-fated Anne Boleyn, with his wife, and six sons. The recumbent figures of Lord and Lady Norris are under a catafalque ; at the sides are the life- size kneeling figures of the sons. On the S. side of the canopy is a relief of warlike scenes from the life of the deceased nobleman. At the top is a small Goddess of Fame. 11. Mrs. Kirton {A. 1603); tablet with inscription, sprinkled with tears represented as flowing from an eye at the top. 12. Sarah, Duchess of Somerset {d. 1692). The Duchess is represented leaning on her arm, looking towards the angels, who are appearing to her in the clouds. At the sides are two poor boys bewailing the death of their benefactress. nn 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 223 *13. J. Oascoigne Nightingale (d. 1752), and his wife (d. 1734); group 'by Roubiliac. Death, emerging from a tomb, is launching his dart at the dying lady, while her husband tries to ward off the attack. 14. Lady St. John (d. 1614), with an effigy. 15. Admiral Pocock (d. 1793) ; sitting figure of Victory with medallion, by Bacon. 16. Sir G. Holies, nephew of Sir Francis Vere (d. 1626), by Stone. *17. Sir Francis Vere (d. 1608), officer in the service of Queeu Elizabeth. Four kneeling warriors in armour support a black marble slab, on which lies the armour of the deceased. This chapel also contains tablets or busts in memory of Ad- miral Kempenfelt, who was drowned with 900 sailors by the sink- ing of the 'Royal George' in 1782 (commemorated in Cowper's well-known lines) ; Sir Humphry Davy (d. 1829), the natural philosopher; the learned Dr. Young (d. 1829), and others. Beyond this point we dispense with the services of the guide. A door in the S. Aisle, adjacent to the angle of the Poets' Corner, leads from the abbey to the beautiful Cloistees, dating in their present form from the 13-15th cent., though they include work of as early as the 11th century. The cloisters may also be entered by a passage in the N.E. corner of Dean's Yard (p. 224). They contain the tombs of numerous early ecclesiastics connected with the abbey, and many other graves, including those of Betterton, the actor (d. 1710), Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress (d. 1748), Aphra Behn , the novelist (d. 1689), Sir Edmond Godfrey (murdered 1678), Dr.Bu- chan, author of 'Domestic Medicine' (d. 1805), etc. From the E. walk of the cloisters we enter the *Chapteb. House, an octagonal room with a central pillar, built in 1250, and from 1282 to 1547 used for the meetings of the House of Commons, which Edward VI., in the latter year, appointed to take place in St. Ste- phen's Chapel, Westminster Palace. The Chapter House was after- wards used as a receptacle for public records, but these were removed in 1865 to the New Record Office (p. 139). In the vestibule, to the left, is a Eoman sarcophagus. The stained- glass window, on the right, commemorates James Russell Lowell, poet and essayist (d. 1891). — On the wall of the Chapter House are remains of a mural painting of Christ surrounded by the Christian virtues. The old tiled pavement is well executed. The Chapter House, which has recently been ably restored, contains a glass-case with fragments of sculpture, coins, keys, etc., found in the neighbourhood; and another case with ancient documents relating to the Abbey, including the Great Charter of Edward the Confessor (1065). The stained-glass windows were erected in memory of Dean Stanley : the E. window by the Queen, that adjoining on the S. by American admirers, and the rest by public subscription. Adjoining the chapter-house is the Chapel of the Pyx (shown by special order only), which was once the Treasury of the Kings of England. The pyx (i.e. the box in which the standards of gold and silver are kept) has been removed to the Mint (p. 128). Opposite the entrance to the Chapter House is a staircase 224 18. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. ascending to the Muniment Room , or Archives of the Ahbey, and to the Triforium, which affords a fine survey of the interior. The room called the Chapel of St. Blaise, between the S. transept and the Chapter House, has a lofty groined roof. In the Jerusalem Chamber, to the S.W. of the Ahbey (shown on application at the porter's lodge), are frescoes of the Death of Henry IV. and the Coronation of Queen Victoria, some stained glass ascribed to the period of Henry III., and busts of Henry IV. and Henry V. It dates from 1376-86, and was the scene of the death of Henry IV. King Henry. Doth any name particnlar belong Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? Warwick. 'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble Lord. King. Land be to God ! even there my life must end. It hath been prophesied to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem \ Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land: — But bear me to that chamber; there Til lie In that Jerusalem shall Harry die. Shakspeare, King Henry IV.. Part II; Act iv. Sc. 4. It probably derived its name from tapestries or pictures of the history of Jerusalem with which it was hung. The Upper House of Convocation of the Province of Canterbury now meets here. The adjoining A&&of's Refectory or College Hall, where the Westminster college boys dine, contains some ancient tapestry and stained glass. The Lower House of Convocation also meets here. For fuller information the curious reader is referred to Dean Stanley's 'Memorials of Westminster Abbey' and Sir G. G. Scott's 'Gleanings from Westminster Abbey'. To theW. of Westminster Abbey rises the Westmmster Colmnn, a red granite monument 60 ft. high, deaigned.'by Sir Gilbert Scott, and erected in 1854-59 to former scholars of Westminster School who fell in the Crimea or the Indian Mutiny. At the base of the column couch four lions. Above are the statues of Edward the Confessor and Henry III. (chief builders of Westminster Abbey), Queen Eliz- abeth (founder of Westminster School), and Queen Victoria. The col- umn is surmounted by a group of St. George and the Dragon. It is on or near the site of Caxton's house (the 'Red Pale'), in the Almonry. An archway, passing under the new house to the S. of the column, leads to the Dean's Yard and Westminster School, or St. Peter's College (PI. R, 25; IV), re-founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1560. The school consists of 40 Foundationers, called Queens Scholars, and about 180 Oppidans or Town Boys. Among the celebrated men educated here were Dryden, Locke, Ben Jonson,Cartwright,Bentham, Barrow, Home Tooke, Cowley, Rowe, Prior, Giles Fletcher, Churchill, Cowper, Southey, Hakluyt the geographer. Sir Chris. Wren, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, George Herbert, Vincent Bourne, Dyer, Toplady, Charles Wesley, George Coleman, Aldrich the musician, Elmsley the scholar. Lord Raglan, J. A. Froude, and Earl Russell. Richard Busby 19. PALL MALL. 225 (p. 210) was head-master here from 1638 to 1695. A comedy of Ter- ence is annually performed at Christmas in the dormitory of the Queen's Scholars by the Westminster boys, with a prologue and epilogue alluding to current events. The old dormitory of the Abbey is now used as the great school-room, while the school-library and class-rooms occupy the site of the mediaeval Misericorde, of which considerable remains are still traceable. The old tables in the dining- hall are said to be made from the timbers of the Armada. The stair- case of Ashburnham House (included in the school-buildings) and the school-gateway are by Inigo Jones. — On the S. side of Dean's Yard the Church How^e, the ecclesiastical memorial of Queen Vic- toria's Jubilee, is now in course of erection. The Royal Architectural Museum, No. 18 Tufton Street (adm. daily 10-4, Sat. 10-6, free), to the S. of Dean's Yard [whence a passage leads), contains Gothic, Renaissance, and Classic carvings (mainly casts). Westminster Hospital (PI. R, 25 ; IV), in the Broad Sanctuary (formerly a sacred place of refuge for criminals and political of- fenders), to the N.W. of the Abbey , was founded in 1719 , Mr. Henry Hoare, banker, of Fleet Street, being a leading promoter. It was the first of the now numerous hospitals of London supported by voluntary contributions. It contains beds for 205 patients. — To the E. of the hospital is Westminster Guildhall or Sessions- House, built in 1805. The Royal Aquarium, in Victoria Street, to the W. of the hos- pital, a handsome red brick edifice, with an arched roof of glass and iron, was opened in 1876. The cost of the building, which is 600 ft. in length, was nearly 200,000^. It includes a few fish-tanks, a summer and winter garden, a theatre (see p. 44), concert-hall, reading-room, picture-gallery, and restaurant; and acrobatic and spectacular performances and music-hall entertainments of all kinds are given here. In Caxton Street, to the N. of Victoria Street, near St. James's Park Station (p. 37), is the Westminster Town Hall, a handsome Jacobean building of red brick. 19. Pall Mall and Piccadilly. Waterloo Place. York Column. Marlborough House. St. Jameses Street. Burlington House. Geological Museum. Leicester Square. Pall MaU (PI. R, 22, 26; IV), the centre of club-life (see p. 74), and a street of modern palaces, derives its name from the old game of pail mail (from the Italian palla, 'a ball', and malleo, a mallet ; French jeu de mail), introduced into England during the reign of Charles I., a precursor of the modern croquet. In the 16th and 17th centuries Pall Mall was a fashionable suburban promenade, but about the end of the 17th cent, it began to assume the form Baedekeb, London. 9th Edit. 15 226 19. WATERLOO PLACE. of a street. Among the many celebrated persons who have resided in this street may be mentioned Marshal Schomberg, the scion of a noble Rhenish family (the Counts of Schonburg), who fell at the Battle of the Boyne (1690). Gainsborough, the painter, died in 1788 in the house which had once been Schomberg's (house next the War Office). Dodsley, the publisher, carried on business in Pall Mall under the sign of 'Tully's Head', bringing out, among other works, Sterne's 'Tristram Shandy', and the 'Annual Register'. The eastern portion of the street, between Cockspur Street and Trafalgar Square, is called Pall Mall East. Here, nearly opposite the corner of the Haymabkbt (where Addison once resided), is a bronze statue of George III., by Wyatt, erected in 1837. On the N. side of Pall Mall East stands the United University Club (entrance from Suffolk Street); farther to the W., at the left corner of Hay- market, is an arcade above which rose Her Majesty's Theatre or Opera-house, demolished in 1893. Farther to the N., on the right side of the Haymarket, is the Hay market Theatre (p. 40). Then in Pall Mall, to the left, at the corner of Waterloo Place, is the United Service Club. To the N. of Waterloo Place (PI. R, 26, /F) is Regent Street (p. 232), leading to Piccadilly. In the centre of the place is the ♦Crimean Monument, erected, from a design by Bell, to the memory of the 2162 officers and soldiers of the Guards , who fell in the Rnssian war. On a granite pedestal is a figure of Victory with laurel wreaths ; below, in front, three guardsmen ; behind, a trophy of guns captured at Sebastopol. On the sides are inscribed the names of Alma, Inkerman, and Sebastopol. — In the S. part of the place or square are five monuments. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Lord Napier of Magdala (1810-1890), by Boehm. To the left is that of Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde, Field-Marshal (d. 1863), the conqueror of Lucknow, by Marochetti, consisting of a bronze statue on a circular granite pedestal, at the foot of which is Britannia, with a twig of laurel, sitting on a lion couchant. Adjacent is a similar monu- ment (by Boehrri) to Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), ruler of the Punjab during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 and Viceroy of India from 1864 to 1869, erected in 1882 by his fellow-subjects, British and Indian. — To the right, opposite, is the bronze statue of Sir John Franklin, by Noble , erected by Parliament 'to the great arctic navigator and his brave companions who sacrificed their lives in completing the dis- covery of the North West Passage A. D. 1847-48'. On the front of the pedestal is a relief in bronze, representing the interment of the relics of the unfortunate Franklin expedition ; on the sides are the names of the crews of the ships Erebus and Terror. On the right of this statue is a bronze figure of Field - Marshal Sir John Fox Bur- goyne (d. 1871), on a pedestal of light-coloured granite, by Boehm. The broad flight of steps at the S. end of Waterloo Place, known as Waterloo Steps, descends to St. James's Park. At the top 19. YORK COLUMN. 227 of the steps rises the York Column, a granite column of the Tuscan order, 124 ft. in height, designed by Wyatt, and erected in 1833. It is surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of York (second son of George III.), by Westmacott. A winding staircase ascends in the interior to the platform, which affords an admirable *View of the W. portions of the great city (closed at present). — To the W. of the column, in Carlton House Terrace, is Prussia House, the residence of the German ambassador. Carlton House, the site of whicli is occupied by Waterloo Place, was built in 1709 for Henry Boyle, Lord Carlton, and was bought in 1732 by the Prince of Wales. It was afterward? the residence of the Prince- Regent (later George IV.), but was pulled down in 1827. Its columns are now said to adorn the facade of the National Gallery (p. 152). Farther on in Pall Mall (S. side) is a series of palatial club- houses, the oldest of which dates from 1829 (see also pp. 74, 75). At the corner on the left is the Athenaeum Club (with frieze) ; then the Travellers^ Club (with its best facade towards the garden), Reform Club, and Carlton Club (with polished granite pillars ; an imitation of Sansoviuo's Library of St. Mark at Venice). A little farther on is the War Office, in front of which is a bronze statue of Lord Herbert of Lea (d. 1861), once War Secretary, by Foley. Opposite, on the right side of the street, are the Junior Carlton, Club and the Army and Navy Club. St. James's Square, which is reached at this point, contains the London Library (p. 16), the mansions of the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Derby, the Bishop of London, and other members of the aristocracy, and is embellished with an Equestrian Statue of William III. , in bronze, by Bacon. Farther on, at the W. end of Pall Mall, are the Oxford and Cam- bridge Club, the Guards^ Club, and the New Oxford and Cambridge Club on the left, and the Marlborough Club on the right. Marl- borougli House (PL R, 22; IV), on the S. side of Pall Mall, was erected hy Sir Christopher Wren, in 1710, for the first Duke of Marl- borough, who lived here in such a magnificent style as entirely to eclipse the court of 'Neighbour George' in St. James's Palace. In 1817 the house was purchased by Government as a residence for Princess Charlotte and her husband Prince Leopold of Saxe - Co- burg. The princess died the same year, but Leopold (d. 1865) continued to reside here till he accepted the throne of Belgium in 1831. The house was afterwards occupied by the Queen Dowager Adelaide, subsequently used as a picture-gallery, and is now the residence of the Prince of Wales. To the W. of Marlborough House, and separated from it by a narrow carriage-way only, is St. James's Palace (p. 266). In St. James's Street, which here leads N. to Piccadilly, are situated the Thatched House Club, the Conservative Club, Arthur's Club, Brooks's Club, New University Club, White's Club (the bow window of which has figured in so many novels), Boodle's Club, the Cocoa Tree Club, the Junior Army and Navy Club, the Devonshire 15* 228 19. PICCADILLY. Club (formerly Orockford's, notorious for its high play under the Regency), and others. In St. James's Place, to the left, is the house (No. 22) occupied hy Samuel Rogers, banker and poet, from 1800 till his death in 1855, and the scene of his famous literary breakfasts. To the right, in King Street, is St. James's Theatre (p. 40). Willis's Restaurant, a little farther along King Street, occu- pies the site of rooms which were down to 1863, under the name of Almack's (from the original proprietor, 1765), famous for the aristocratic and exclusive balls, also called Almack's, which were held in them. King Street also contains Christie and Hanson's Auction Rooms, celebrated for sales of valuable art-collections. The chief sales take place on Saturdays, during the Season. Piccadilly (PL R, 18, 22 ; I, IV), extending from Haymarket to Hyde Park Corner, is nearly 1 M. in length. The eastern portion, with its handsome shops , is one of the chief business streets of the West End. The western half, which is bordered on the S. by the Green Park (p. 270), contains a number of aristocratic and fashionable residences, and the Isthmian (No. 150), the Naval and Military (94), Badminton (100), St. James's (106), Savile (107), New Travellers' (No. 97), and Junior Athenaeum (116) clubs. Turning into it to the right, we first notice, on the right side, a few yards from the corner of St. James's Street, the Egyptian Hall (p. 43). On the opposite side are Old and New Bond Streets (p. 234), leading to Oxford Street. Between Old Bond Street and Sackville Street rises New Burlington House (Pl.R, 22; /), to the W. of which is the Burlington Arcade (p. 24). Old Burlington House, built in 1695-1743 by Richard, Lord Burlington, with the assistance of the architect Kent, was purchased by Government in 1854 for the sum of 140,000L along with its gardens, on which various new edi- fices have been built. The incongruous top story and the present facade of the old building are also new. Nearest Piccadilly is a handsome building in the Italian Renaissance style, completed in 1872 from designs by Banks and Barry, and occupied by several learned societies , to whom the rooms are granted by Government rent-free ; in the E. wing are the Royal, Geological, and Chemical Societies, and in the W. the Antiquarian (with a collection of paint- ings, chiefly old portraits), Astronomical, and Linnaean. The Royal Society, or Academy of Science, the most important of the learned bodies of Great Britain, was founded in 1660, and received its charter of incorporation from Charles II. three years later. As early as 1645, however, its germ existed in the meeting of a few men of learning, far from the turmoil of the Civil War, to discuss subjects relating to the physical and exact sciences. The first number of its famous Philosophical Transactions appeared in 1665. It now comprises about 520 members (including 50 foreign members), each of whom is entitled to append to his name the let- ters F. R. S. (Fellow of the Royal Society). The Library of the society 19. ACADEMY OF ARTS. 229 consists of about 50,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. The rooms contain portraits and busts of celebrated Fellows, including Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Isaac Newton, Robert Boyle, Halley, Sir Humphry Davy, Watt, and Sir William Herschel ; also a telescope which belonged to Newton, and the MS. of his 'Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica'; and the original model of Davy's safety lamp. The Copley Medal and two Royal Medals are awarded annually by the society for scientific eminence, and the Davy Medal for chemical investi- gation. The Rumford and Darwinian Medals are awarded biennially for investigations in light and heat and in biology respectively. Besides the Transactions, the society also issues its Proceedings annually, and a Ca- talogue of Scientific Papers published in all parts of the world. An arcade leads through the building into the inner court. On the N. side is the exhibition building of the Royal Academy of Arts (founded in 1768), in the Renaissance style, erected by Smirke in 1868-9. At the top of the facade are 9 statues of cele- brated artists: Phidias, Leonardo da Vinci, Flaxman, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Reynolds, Wren, and Wykeham. The Ex- hibition of the Royal Academy (transferred in 1869 from Trafalgar Square to Piccadilly), which takes place here every year from May to the beginning of August, attracts immense numbers of visitors (admission is., catalogue Is.). It consists of paintings and sculp- tures by modern (mainly) British artists, which must have been finished during the previous year and not exhibited elsewhere before. The 'Private View' of the Exhibition, held by invitation of the Academicians before it is thrown open to the public, is always attended by the cream of society and is one of the events of the London Season. The 'Academy Dinner' held about the same time is also a highly important social function. The Academy organises every winter an exhibition of works of old masters belonging to private individuals. — A staircase in the corner to the right ascends to the Gibson and Diploma Galleries (open daily 11-4, free), which contain some valuable works of early art, the diploma pic- tures presented by Academicians on their election, and the Gibson collection of sculpture. Among the ancient works are : *Mary with Jesus and St. John, a relief by Michael Angelo ; *Madonna, Holy Child, St. Anne, and St. John, a celebrated cartoon \iy Leonardo da Vinci, executed in 1503 for the church DelFAnnunziata at Flor- ence; Copy of Leonardo's Last Supper, by his pupil Marco da Oggionno, from which Morghen's engraving was taken; Woman at a well , ascribed to Giorgione but considered by Frizzoni to be an early work of Seb. del Piomho ; portrait by Qiorgione. The diploma works include good specimens by Reynolds and Wilkie. The L?- 6rary, on the first floor, contains a fine collection of books and prints At the back of the Academy, and facing Burlington Gardens, is London University (PI. R, 22; i), founded in 1836, another Re- naissance structure, erected in 1869 from designs by Pennethorne. London University (not to be confounded with University College 230 19. LONDON UNIVERSITY. in Gower Street) is not a teaching establishment but an examin- ing board, granting degrees in arts, science, medicine, and law, to candidates of either sex wherever educated. The effective facade is decorated with a series of statues. Above the portico are those of' Milton, Newton, Harvey, and Bentham (as represent- atives of the four Faculties), by Durham; over the cornice in the centre, Plato, Archimedes, and Justinian, by Wocdington^ and Galen, Cicero, and Aristotle, by Westmacott; in the W. wing, Locke, Bacon, and Adam Smith, by Theed, and Hume, Hunter, and Sir Humphry Davy, hj Noble; in the E. wing, Galileo, Laplace, and Goethe, by Wijon^ and Cuvier, Leibnitz, and Linnajus, by Macdowell. The interior contains a spacious lecture room, a number of other apartments, in which the graduation examina- tions take place twice annually, and a valuable library. A marble statue of Queen Victoria, by Boehm, was erected here in May, 1889. Close by, at 1 Savile Row, to the N.E., is the Royal Geograph- ical Society. Richard Brinsley Sheridan died at 14 Savile Row in 1816. — In Albemarle Street, to the W., beyond Bond Street (p. 234), are the Royal Institution, founded in 1799 for the pro- motion and teaching of science , with library , reading-room, and weekly lectures from Christmas to Midsummer ; and the Royal Asiatic Society (No. 22), with a library (open 11-4, on Sat. 11-2). On the N. side of Piccadilly, a little beyond Burlington House, is the Albany, let out in chambers, and numbering Canning, Byron, and Macaulay among quondam residents. Byron passed the first part of his married life at 139 Piccadilly, where his daughter Ada was born in Dec, 1815. St. James's Church (PL R, 22; i), adjoining Princes' Hall (p. 45) on the S. side of Piccadilly, built by Wren in 1682-84, and considered (as to the interior) one of his finest works, contains a marble font by Grinling Gibbons, who also executed the handsome foliage over the altar. The stained-glass windows , representing the Passion and other scenes, are modern. The vestry is hung with portraits of former rectors. The Museum of Practical Geology, erected in 1850, is a little farther to the E. It is open daily, Fridays excepted, from 10 to 5 (in winter 10-4), and on Mondays and Saturday till 10 p.m. ; it is closed from 10th August to 10th September. The building contains, besides the geological museum, a lecture-room for 500 hearers, and a library. Entrance by Jermyn Street (Nos. 28-32). The Hall contains busts of celebrated geologists: on the right, Mur- chison, Greenough, De la Beche, Castletown, William Smith, and Jukes (behind); on the left, Buckland, Playfair, Hall, Sedgwick, and Hutton; at the pillars near the entrance. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. At the at)]»cr end is a colossal copy of the Farnese Hercules in Portland limestone. Then English, Irish, and Scotch granite; alabaster; Portland liniestcine from the island of Portland, near Weymouth in Dorsetshire; Derbyshire, Staffordshire, and Irish marbles; auriferous quartz; malachite; a large block of solid copper; and nvmierous varieties of limestone. These are partly in the rough, and partly polished and cut in the shape of large cubes, Sfiuares. tablets, or short columns. Also terracotta statuettes, copies of ancieat statues, vases, and pieces of tesselated pavement. The mosaic pavement in the middle of the hall deserves notice. On the FiKST Flook we first observe a large vase of Siberian avan- 19. LEICESTER SQUARE. 231 turine quartz, a gift from the Emperor of Russia 5 a geological model of London and its vicinity ; a steel salver, inlaid with gold , presented by the Russian Administration of Mines to Sir Roderick Murchison. On the S. side is a collection of porcelain, glass, enamels, and mosaics from the earliest period down to the present day. Then, in table-cases at the sides of the room, iron, steel, and copper, at dilFerent stages of their manufacture. We notice in a case on the right (E.) side a penny rolled out into a strip of copper, 10 yds. long. The cases in the form of a horse-shoe in the middle of the room contain the collection of non-metallic minerals : here are seen all kinds of crystallisations, particularly of precious stones, from quartz nodules with brilliant crystals in the interior up to the most ex- quisitely polished jewels. Models of the largest known diamonds, such as the Koh-i-noor and the Regent Diamond, are also exhibited in these cases. The metalliferous minerals, or ores, occupy the wall-cases. Other cabinets are filled with agates , some of which are artificially coloured with oxide of iron, and the precious metals, including a model of a huge nugget of pure gold. In the other parts of the saloon and in the adjoining apartments are exhibited geological relief-plans and models of mines, metallurgical pro- cesses , and various kinds of machinery. The two upper galleries, run- ning round the hall, chiefly contain fossils, which are of little interest to the ordinary visitor. On tlie N. side of Piccadilly, opposite the Geological Museum, is St. James's Hall fp. 44), which has another entrance in the Regent Quadrant (p. 232). We next reach Piccadilly Circus (p. 232), aiid then, on the right, the Criterion Theatre (p. 41) and the Hay- market (p. 226). At this point Piccadilly proper comes to an end. Coventry Street^ its eastern prolongation, containing the Prince of Wales Theatre (p. 41), leads on to Leicester Square (PL R, 27; i), a quarter largely inhahited by French residents, and adorned in 1874 with flower-heds and a marble statue of Shakspeare, in the centre, bearing the inscription, 'There is no darkness but ignorance' ; at the base are four water-spouting dolphins. The corners of the garden are embellished with marble busts of Reynolds, Hunter, Hogarth, and Newton, all of whom lived in or near the square. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685) this neighbourhood became a favourite resort of the more aristocratic French Protestant exiles. Leicester House and Savile House, once situated in the square, were occupied by members of the royal family during the first half of last century ; and Peter the Great was entertained at Savile House by the Marquis of Carmarthen (1698). Down to the beginning of the present cen- tury the open space in the centre was a frequent resort of duellists. — The Alhambra Theatre (p. 42), on the E. side of the square, was burned down in 1882, but was rebuilt in 1883-84. The site of Savile House, on the N. side of the square, is occupied by the Em- pire Theatre (p. 42). The line of Coventry Street is continued on the other side of the square by Cranbourne Street, in which is Dalys Theatre (p. 41), leading to Charing Cross Road (p. 234). 232 20. Regent Street. Oxford Street. Holbom. All Saints' Church. University College. St. Pancras' Church. Foundling Hospital. Regent Street (PL R, 23, 26; i), one of the finest streets in London, and containing a large number of the best shops, was laid out by Nash in 1813, for the purpose of connecting Carlton House (p. 227), the residence of the Prince Regent, -with Regent's Park. It is 1 M. in length, and extends from Waterloo Place, Pall Mall (p. 226 J, across Oxford Street, to Portland Place. To the right (E.), at the corner of Charles Street, stands the Junior United Service Club, and on the same side is the Raleigh Club. Jermyn Street (-with the Geological Museum, p. 230) is a little farther on. The street then reaches Regent Circus, Piccadilly (see p. 231 ; known as Piccadilly Circus), whence Piccadilly leads to the W., Coventry Street to the E., and the wide Shaftesbury Avenue (p. 152) to the N.E. The triangle in the centre of the Circus is occupied by a Memorial Fountain to Lord Shaftesbury (d. 1883), by Alfred Gilbert, A. R. A., unveiled in 1893. Beyond the Circus Regent Street describes a curve to the W., forming the so-called Quadrant. On the left is the entrance to St. James's Hall (see p. 231). Vigo Street, at the end of the Quadrant, leads on the left to London University (p. 229). Farther on, to the left, we pass New Burlington Street, Conduit Street, and Maddox Street. Between Hanover Street and Prince's Street we observe the col- onnade of Hanover Chapel. Hanover Square, on the left, is em- bellished with a bronze statue of William Pitt (d. 1806), by Chantrey. On the E. side of the square is the St. George's Club, occupy- ing the site of the long popular Hanover Square Concert Rooms ; on the W. side, the Oriental Club ; and attheN.W, angle, inTenterden Street, the Royal Academy of Music. In George Street, leading out of the square on the S., is St. George's Church, built by James, with a classic portico, and three stained-glass windows, made in Malines about 1520 and brought to England early in the present century. It is the most famous church in London for fashionable weddings. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in George Street in 1762. The intersection of Regent Street with Oxford Street (see p. 233), which extends for a longdistance in both directions, is caWed Regent Circus, Oxford Street, or simply Oxford Circus. Margaret Street, the second cross-street beyond Oxford Street, leads to the W. (left) to Cavendish Square, which contains an equestrian statue in marble of the Duke of Cumberland (the victor atCullodenin 1746), by (hew, and a bronze statue of Lord George Bentinck (d. 1848), by Campbell. Harcourt House, on the W. side of the square, is the mansion of the Duke of Portland. Lord Byron was born in 1788 at 24 Holies Street, between Cavendish Square and Oxford Street; the house, however, has since been rebuilt. He was baptised in Old 20. OXFORD STREET. 233 Maryhhone Church, at the top of Marylehone High Street (PI. R, 20), where Charles Wesley was buried in 1788. This was the old church (rebuilt in 1741J which figures in the 'Rake's Marriage' by Hogarth (see p. 179J. — In Margaret Street, to the E. (r.) of Kegent Street, is AU Saints' Church (PL R, 24; i), built by Butterfield in 1850-59 , in the Early English style, lavishly decorated in the in- terior with marble and gilding. The E. wall of the choir is frescoed by Dyce in the style of early Christian art. — At No. 74a. Margaret Street, is the Parkes Museum of Hygiene (adm., see p. 78). The Polytechnic Young Mens Christian Institute, between Ca- vendish Square and Regent Street, has occupied since 1882 the old Polytechnic Institution. The Institute has numerous technical and other classes, reading-rooms, a gymnasium, etc. On the opposite side of the street is a similar institution for young women. Farther on, on the right side of Regent Street, are St. George's Hail (p. 45) and the handsome Queens Hall (p. 44). The latter has accom- modation for 3000 persons; the ceiling is painted by Carpe'gat. At the N. end of Regent Street is Langham Place, with All Souls' Church, erected by Nash. The large building on the other side is the Langham Hotel (p. 6). From this point Portland Place, one of the widest streets in London (120 ft.), leads to Park Crescent, Park Square, and Regent's Park (p. 237). Oxford Street (PL R, 19, 23, 27; /, W), the principal artery of traffic between theN.W. quarter of London and the City, extends from the Marble Arch (at the N.E. corner of Hyde Park, p. 271) to Holborn, a distance of I72 M. The E. portion of this imposing street contains a number of the most important shops in London, and presents a scene of immense traffic and activity ; while the W. end, with the adjoining streets and squares (particularly Grosvenor Square and Berkeley Square on the S. and Portman Square on the N.), comprises many aristocratic residences. Edgware Road, which begins at the W. end of Oxford Street (see PI. R, 15), follows the line of the old Roman road to St. Albans. Portland Street and Or- chard Street lead to the N. (left) to Porlman Square, with the town residence of the Duke of Fife. The 'Blue Stocking Club' met at Mrs. Montagu's (d. 1800) in the N.W. corner of the square. From the N.E. corner Baker Street runs due N. to Baker Street Station (Me- tropolitan), at the corner of Marylebone Road. Lower Berkeley Street rujis to the E. from Portman Square to Manchester Square (PI. R, 19; i), with Hertford House (p. 278). Adjacent, at 13 Mandeville Place , is Trinity College , an incorporated institution for the study of music and arts. — Many of the houses in Gros- venor Square and Berkeley Square (with its plane-trees) still have bits of fine old iron-work in front of their doors, with extinguishers for the links or torches formerly used. Horace Walpole died at 11 Berkeley Square in 1797 ; Clive committed suicide at No. 45 in 1774. No. 38, now the town-house of Lord Rosebery, was the house 234 20. ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. from which the daughter of Mr. Child, the banker, eloped -with the Earl of Westmorland in 1782, and -was after-wards the residence of their daughter Lady Jersey (d. 1867) and her husband. At the foot of South Audley Street, -which runs to the S. from the S.W. corner of Grosvenor Square, is Chesterfield House (PL E, 18; IV), with a fine marble staircase and the library in which the 'Chester- field Letters' were written. In Brook Street, which runs E. from Grosvenor Square to Hanover Square (p. 232), is a house (No. 25) dis- tinguished by a tablet indicating that Handel used to live here. New Bond Street (PL R, 23 ; i), which diverges to the right (S.) from Oxford Street, farther on, is continued by Old Bond Street to Piccadilly (p. 228). This thoroughfare contains numerous attract- ive and fashionable shops, the Grosvenor Club (No. 135), and sev- eral picture-galleries (comp. p. 45). — Hanover Square, Cavendish Square, Regent Street, and Oxford Cirrus, see p. 232. In Oxford Street, on the left, farther on, is the Princess's Theatre (p. 40), nearly opposite which is the Pantheon, which has successively been a concert-room, a theatre, and a bazaar, and is now the extensive ■wine warehouse of Messrs. Gilbey. Then on the right (No. 58) is the Soho Bazaar (p. 24), with an exit at the other end to Soho Square. On the N. side of this square is the new French Protestant Church, one of the best examples of terracotta architecture in Lon- don j and on the E. side is the new Roman Catholic Church of St. Patrick. Oxford Street proper ends at Tottenham Court Road, which runs to the N. to Euston Road, and Charing Cross Road (p. 231), leading to the S. to Charing Cross. The eastern prolongation of Oxford Street, extending to Holborn, and called New Oxford Street, was laid out in 1849 at a cost of 290,000i. through the 'Rookery of St. Giles', one of the most dis- reputable quarters of London. No. 75, to the right, belonging to Messrs. Pears, has a vestibule in the style of a Pompeian room, adorned with sculptures. On the left, at the corner of Hart Street, is Mudie's Library (p. 16). A little to the S. of New Oxford Street, in High Street, is the church of St. Giles-in-the-Fields, the third church on this site, completed in 1734. Chapman, the translator of Homer (tombstone against the exterior S. wall, erected by Inigo Jones), Shirley, the dramatist, and Andrew Marvell are buried here. To the E. in the churchyard is the square tomb of Pendrell, who helped Charles II. to safety after the battle of Worcester, with a quaint epitaph, describing him as 'Unparalleled Pendrell'. The British Museum (p. 242) lies in Great Russell Street, which runs off Tottenham Court Road, a little to the north. There are several squares at a short distance from the street, among the chief of which are, to the W. of the British Museum, Btsdford Squabb ; to the E. , P.LOOMSBURY Square and Russell Square, the one con- taining a statue of Charles James Fox (d. 1806), and the other one of 20. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. 235 Francis, Duke of Bedford (d. 1802), both by Westmacott. In Blooms- bury Square are the new buildings of the College of Preceptors^ opened in 1889. Gower Street, which leads to the N. from Bedford Square, con- tains TJniversity College (PI. B,28), founded in 1828, chiefly through the exertions of Lord Brougham, for students of every religious de- nomination. A long flight of steps leads to the dodecastyle Corinthian portico fronting the main edifice, which is 400 ft. in length and surmounted by a handsome dome. It contains numerous lecture- rooms, a laboratory, the Slade School of Fine Art, and a museum with original models and drawings byFlaxman (d. 1826), the cele- brated sculptor (open to visitors in the summer months, Sat. 10-4). The new laboratories, etc., built next the street in 1892, somewhat mask the view of the main edifice. The subjects studied at the college comprise the exact and natural sciences, the classical and modern languages and literatures, history, law, and medicine. The building also contains a well-known school for boys. The whole is maintained without aid from Government. The number of profes- sors is about 40, and that of students about 1600, paying nearly 30,000f. in fees. In Gower Street, opposite University College, and connected with it as a clinical establishment, stands the University College Hospital, where about 40,000 patients are annually treated by the medical professors of the college. Close by, in Gordon Square, is the Catholic Apostolic Church, built in 1850-54, one of the largest ecclesiastical edifices in London. The Interior is a fine example of modern Gothic (Early English"), though unfinished towards the W. The Choir, with its graceful triforium ;md diapered spandrils, is very rich. The most beautiful part of the church is, however, the English Chapel, to the E. of the chancel, with its polychrome painting, stained-glass windows, and open arcade with fine carving (particularly on the three arches to the S. of the altar). In the Morning Chapel, to the S. of the chancel, is the altar formerly used by the Rev. Edward Irving (d. 1834), the founder of the Catholic Apostolic Church. Next this church is University Hall (containing Dr. Williams' Library, p. 16), a kind of Unitarian 'University settlement' (warden. Rev. P. H. Wicksteed). At the N. end of (Jower Street is the Qower Street Station (Me- tropolitan; p. 36). Thence Euston Road runs to the E. to Fusion Square Station, terminus of the London and North Western Rail- way (p. 32), the entrance-hall of which contains a colossal statue of George Stephenson, by Baily. Farther to the E. is the St. Pan- eras Station, terminus of the Midland Railway (p. 32), with the terminus hotel, a very handsome building in an ornate Gothic style, by Sir G. G. Scott. Adjacent is the King's Cross Station, terminus of the Great Northern Railway (p. 32). St.Pancras' Church (PI. B,28), in Euston Square, was built by the Messrs. Inwood in 1819 at a cost of 76,679i. It is an imitation of the Erechtheum at Athens ; while its tower, 168 ft. in height, is a double reproduction of the so-called Tower of the Winds. 236 20. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. Old St, Fancras' Church (PI. B, 27), with its historical churchyard, ia situated in Old St. Pancras Road, next to the Workhduse. Part of the churchyard, with the adjacent St. Giles huryin<i ground, has heen converted into public gardens. A monument was erected here in 1879 by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts to those whose graves were disturbed in the process. To the N. of King's Cross lie the populous but comparatively uninterest- ing districts of Someks Town, Camden Town, Kentish Town, Islington, Highbury, and Hollowat. In Great College Street, Camden Town, is situated the Royal Veterinary College (PI. B, 23), with a museum to which visitors are admitted daily (9 to 5 or 6) on presenting their cards. Charles Dihdin (d. 1814), the writer of nautical songs, is buried in St. Martin's Burial Ground, Camden Street (now a public recreation-ground), a little to the N.W. of the Veterinary College. He is commemorated by a new Scandinavian cross. The Royal Agricultural Hall (p. 44) is in Liverpool Road, Islington (PI. B, 35), and the Grand Theatre (p. 42) is close by, in High Street. A little to the N.E., in Canonbury Square (PI. B, 38), is "Canonbury Tower ^ an interesting relic of the country -residence of the Priors of St. Bartholomew. The tower was probably built by Prior Bolton (p. 96), though restored at a later date, and contains a fine carved oak room. Oliver Goldsmith occupied rooms in the tower in 1762. The eastern prolongation of New Oxford Street is High Holborn (PL R, 32, and //; so called from the ^Hole Bourne', or Fleet Brook, ■which once flowed through the hollow near here), a street which survived the Great Fire, and still contains a considerable number of old houses. Milton once lived here, and it was by this route that condemned criminals used to be conducted to Tyburn. The increas- ing traffic indicates that we are approaching the City. On the right are several side -streets, leading to Lincoln's Inn Fields (with the Soane Museum, etc., see pp. 183-186). Red Lion Street on the left, continued by Lamb's Conduit Street, leads to Guilford Street, on the N. side of which stands the — Foundling Hospital (PI. R, 32), a remarkable establishment founded by Captain Thomas Coram in 1739 for 'deserted children'. Since 1760, however, it has not been used as a foundling hospital, but as a home for illegitimate children, whose mothers are known. (Neither in London nor in any other part of England are there any foundling hospitals in the proper sense of the term, such as the 'Hospice des Enfants Trouves' in Paris.) The number of the children is about 500, and the yearly income of the Hospital, 13,000i. In the Board Room and the Secretarfg Room are a number of pictures, chiefly painted about the middle of last century. They include the fol- lowing: Hogarth, *March to Finchley, and Finding of Moses ; portraits by Ramsay, Reynolds, and Shackleton; views of the Foundling Hospital and St. George's Hospital by Wilson; view of the Charterhouse by Gains- borough. The Board Room also contains a good portrait of Coram by Hogarth. Most of the pictures were presented to the institution by the artists themselves. (The success with which the exhibition of tiiese pic- tures was attended is said to have led to the first exhibition of the Royal Academy in 17(iO.) The hospital also possesses Raphael's cartoon of the Massacre of the Innocents, a bust of Handel and some of his musical M8S., a collection of coins or tokens deposited with the children (1741-60), etc. The Chapel is adorned with an aitarpiece by West, representing Christ blessing little children ; the organ was a gift from Handel. Divine ser- vice, at which the children are led in singing by trained voices, is per- formed (in Sundays at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. The Hospital is shown to visit- ors on Sundays, after morning service, and on Mondays from 10 to 4. ArvstiJt voil ifiiiiaiir^TiaTi, B6 lUmioc oiosts , Parrots Befre rrois -— ^ A- 1 t B 1 1 C Tfasner i DeTjes, leipz 21. REGENT'S PARK. 237 The attendants are forbidden to accept gratuities, but a contribution to the funds of the institution is expected from the visitor on leaving or in the church-offertory. To the E. of Lincoln's Inn are Chancery Lane (p, 139) on the right (after whicli we are in the City), and Grays Inn Road (p. 141) on the left. Then Holborn Viaduct, Newgate, etc., see pp. 93, 94. 21. Regent's Park. Zoological Gardens. Botanic Gardens. Primrose Hill. Lord's Cricket Ground. Eegent's Park (PI. B, 15, 16, 19, 20) was laid out during the last years of the reign of George III., and derives its name from the then Prince Regent, afterwards George IV. It occupies the site of an earlier park called Marylebone Park. The name Marylehone is said to be a corruption of Mary on Tyburn (Mary-le-bourne), Tyburn being a small brook, coming from Kilburn and flowing into the Thames. It crossed Oxford Street a little to the E. of the Marble Arch and flowed through St. James's Park, leaving its mark upon Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, and notably upon 'Tyburn', that melancholy old place of execution situated about the lower corner of Edgware Road. It has also given its name to Tyburnia, the quarter of London situated to the N. of Hyde Park. In the time of Queen Elizabeth, Marylebone Park was filled with deer and game. Under the Commonwealth the land was cleared of the woods and used as pasturage. Afterwards trees were again planted, footpaths constructed, and a large artificial lake formed. The Park, which is one of the largest in London, embraces 472 acres of ground, and extends from York Gate, Marylebone Road, to Primrose Hill. Within its precincts are situated several private residences, among which is St. Dunstan's Villa with the clock and the automatic figures from the church of St. Dunstan's in Fleet Street [see p. 138). The gardens of the Zoological Society (founded by Sir Humphry Davy and Sir Stamford Raffles in 1826) occupy a large space in the N. part of the Park, which also contains the gardens of the Botanical Society and the Toxopholite (Archery) Society. The Park is surrounded by a broad drive known as the Outer Circle. In summer a band generally plays in the Park on Sun. afternoons in the Kiosk a little to the S. of the Zoological Gardens (PL B, 20). The **Zoological Gardens are bounded on the N. by the Regent's Canal and intersected by the Outer Circle, which here runs parallel with the canal. They are thus divided into two portions , which, however, communicate with each other by means of a tunnel constructed under the drive. The principal entrance is in the Outer Circle (the Main Entrance in the Plan) ; ingress may also be obtained from the Broad Walk, at the S.E. angle of the gardens (see PL, South Entrance^ or from Albert Road, Primrose Hill, on the N. side of the canal (^North Entrance, near No. 43 on the Plan). The Main 238 21. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. Entrance is about ^/^ M. from the Portland Road Station of the Metropolitan Railway, from which the S. Entrance is a little less re- mote, while both gates are about 3/^ M. from the Chalk Farm Station of the North -Western and North London Railways. The Baker Street Station (Metropolitan) is about 3/^ M. from the S. entrance , which is only 300 yds. from Gloucester Road, where omnibuses from all parts of London pass at frequent intervals. The North Entrance is 1/2 M. from Chalk Farm and 2/4 M. from St. John's Wood Road [Metropolitan Railway), and is passed by Camden Town and Padd- ington omnibuses. (Carriages may not drive along the Broad Walk.) The Zoological Gardens are open daily from 9 a.m. to sunset, admission Is,, on Mondays 6d., children half-price except on Mon- days ; on Sundays only by order obtained from a member. The total number of visitors in 1893 was 662,649. The band of the Life Guards usually plays here on Saturdays in summer at 4p.m. Many of the animals conceal themselves during the day in their holes and dens, under water, or among the shrubbery ; the best time to visit them, accordingly, is at the feeding-hour, when even the lethargic carnivora are to be seen in a state of activity and ex- citement. The pelicans are fed at 2. 30, the otters at 3, the eagles at 3. 30 (except Wednesdays), the beasts of prey at 4 (in winter, Nov. -Feb., at 3), the seals and sea-lions at 4.30 (in winter at 3.30), and the diving birds in the fish-house (PI. 37) at 12 and 5 p.m. The snakes receive their weekly meal on Friday , but visitors are not admitted to this curious spectacle without the express per- mission of the Director of the Gardens. Those who have not time to explore the Gardens thoroughly had better follow the route indicated on the plan by arrows , so as to see the most interesting animals in the shortest possible time, avoiding all unnecessary deviations. On entering from the Outer Circle (PI., Main Entrance'), we turn to the right, and first reach the Western Aviary (PL 1), which is 170 ft. long, and contains 200 different kinds of birds , chiefly from Australia, the Indian Archipelago, and South America. Then, passing the Crows (PI. 1 a) and the Cranes and Storks (PI. 2), we reach, on the left, the — • '^*Monkey House (PI. 3), which always attracts a crowd of amused spectators. The unpleasant odour is judiciously disguised by num- erous plants and flowers. The bats are also kept here. We next return (to the right) to the Storks and Cranes (PL 2) and Emeus (PI. 4), by which we pass to the left, and then take another turning on the right leading to the Rodents (PI. 6), Swine (PL 7), And Southern Ponds for Water Fowl (1?\. 5 ; about 50 different kinds). We then proceed to the left, along the other side of the Southern Ponds and past the Sheep Sheds (PL 8), to the Sea-Lions' Pond (PL 9). To the right is the Sheep Yard (9 A), built in 1885 for the Burrhel, or blue wild sheep, from the Himalayas. To the 21. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 239 S.E. of this point are the Wolves' and Foxes' Dens (PI. 9 B). We now coutinue our walk (see Plan) to the large *Lion House(F\. 10), which is 230 ft. long and 70 ft. wide. In addition to its living occupants it contains a bust of Sir Stamford Baffles (d. 1826), the first president of the Zoological Society. We now retrace our steps, and pass along the open-air enclosures at the back of the Lion House to the Antelope House (PI. 11). Issuing thence, we proceed straight on, past the Bear Pit (PI. 14), to the southern front of the dens formerly occupied by the lions and tigers, but now containing Hyenas and Bears (PI. 12 and 13). The terrace above affords a view of the bear-pit and the pond for the Polar Bears (PI. 13a). We next turn to the right, and pass through the archway near the Camels (PI. 16). Then, leaving the Clock Tower on the right and the Eagle Owls (PI. 15) on the left, and passing more Water Fowl (PI. 17) on the left, and the Eastern Aviary (PI. 19) on the right, we reach the pavilion of the *Peli- cans (PI. 18). From the pelicans we retrace our steps to the vicinity of the Clock Tower, and bear to the left to the Northern Pond (PI. 20), which contains more water-fowl. By continuing to the left we reach the Owls' Cages (PI. 21), at the back of which is the Llamas' House (PI. 22). This should not be approached too closely on account of the unpleasant expectorating propensities of its inmates. A little farther on is the pond containing the Mandarin Ducks (PI. 23). Between the two, on our left, is the entrance to the tunnel, which we pass in the meantime. Opposite, on the right, are the Otters (PI. 24) and the Kites (PI. 25); to the N.E., on the left, lies the Civet House (PI. 26). We now turn to the right and proceed to the south. We first reach, on the left, the Small Mammals (PI. 27; the house may be entered), on the right the Ducks (PI. 29); then, on the left, the Flying Squirrels (PI. 28) and the Racoons (PL 30), near which is the refreshment room (see p. 240). Continuing in a straight direction past the Vultures {P\. 31) and another small aviary containing Bateleur Eagles, we reach the S. Entrance, which we leave on the left. Near the entrance is the new Deer House (PL 32), behind which are the Cattle Sheds (PL 34; containing, amongst other specimens, the bison, cape buffalo, zebu, and gayal). Opposite the Deer House are aviaries containing Pheasants and Peacocks (PL 31a). We now turn to the left, and after a few paces reach the new *Reptile House, to the E. of the Lion House. This con- tains an extensive collection of large serpents, lizards, alligators, and crocodiles. At this point we turn back and walk straight on, past the front of the Cattle Sheds, to the Three Island Pond (PI. 36), stocked with water-fowl, among which are specimens of the black- necked Bwan. The path leading first to the left and then to the right, passing (opposite) more Water Foioi (PL 85), leads to the 240 21. BOTANIC GARDENS. *Fi3h-House (PI. 37), containing a fine collection of fish and small aquatic birds. The * Refreshment Rooms (PI. 38, 39) here afford a ■welcome opportunity for a rest. From the Refreshment Rooms we proceed towards the N.W. past the Eagles' Aviaries (PL 40), having on our left the Rails (PI. 41), and pass through the tunnel leading into the N. section of the gardens. Here we first go straight on, across the canal-bridge, on the other side of which are the Northern Aviary (PL 42 ; for birds of prey) ; the Tortoise House (PL 43) ; and the new *Insectarium (PL 44), containing insects, land-crustaceans, chameleons, toads, tree-frogs, terrapins, electric eels, and birds of paradise. Between the tortoise-house and the insectarium is the North Entrance, op- posite which are paddocks containing Japanese and Axis Deer. "We now recross the bridge and turn to the left to the Small Cats' House (PL 44a) and Lecture Room (PL 45), the latter adorned with water-colour sketches of animals. Adjoining the Lecture Room are the Marsupials' House (PL 46), containing the great ant-eater, the ^Sloths' House (PL 47), and a Kangaroo Shed (PL 48). The Sloths' House contains some of the most interesting immates of the Gar- dens, in the form of specimens of the anthropoid or manlike apes, pending the erection of a special house for these animals. Oppo- site are another Kangaroo Shed (PL 49) and the Wombat's House (PL 50). Here we turn to the right and pass the Brush Turkeys (PL 51) and the Markhore House (PL 52) on the right, and a small Refreshment Stall (PL 53) on the left. Opposite this stall is the Parrot House (PL 54), containing about ninety different species of that gaudy and harsh-voiced bird, next to which is the new *Ele- phant and Rhinoceros House (PL 56), containing the African and Asiatic varieties of these animals. No. 57 contains deer belonging to the old world ; No. 59 is the Superintendent's Office. The Moose-Yard (No. 59a) contains moose- deer and rein-deer from Labrador. Proceeding in a straight direc- tion, we reach the * Hippopotamus and Brazilian Tapir (PL 60). The Giraffe-House (PL 61) at present contains Indian cattle and a large ostrich, the last giraffe having died in 1892. Beyond are the Zebras (PL 62) and Cassowaries (PL 63), the house of the latter containing also an Apteryx or Kiwi. Returning along the S. side of these houses, we reach, on the left, the Gazelles (PL 64) and the Beavers (PL 58). A little way beyond the Beaver House we reach the Exit, which takes us into the Outer Circle. Part of the southern portion of Regent's Park is occupied by the Botanic Gardens (PL B, 20), which are circular in shape, and are enclosed by the drive called the Inner Circle. Large flower-shows take place here on three Wednesdays in May and June, which are largely attended by the fashionable world (tickets of admission sold at the gate). On other occasions the gardens are open daily (Sundays and Wednesdays excepted) to anyone presenting an order of ad- 21. PniMROSE Hn.L. 241 mission given by a Fellow of the Botanical Society. Strangers are generally admitted on application to the officials. The Museum and the collections of sea-weeds and orchids are very interesting. On the E. side of the Park stands St. Katherine's Hospital, with its chapel. This building was erected in substitution of one which formerly stood on the site of St. Katherine's Docks (p. 129). The property was purchased by the Dock Company from the Hospital trustees for a very large sum, part of which was laid out in the con- struction of the new cluster of buildings in the Park. The Hos- pital was originally intended for the shelter and succour of 'six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters', but is now the Central House for l^urses for the Poor, maintained by the Jubilee gift of the women of England to the Queen. The income is about TOOOl. a year. Sev- eral old monuments from the original hospital are preserved here. To the S. of Regent's Park runs the Marylebone Road, con- taining the imposing premises of Madame Tussaud's well-known waxwork exhibition (adm., see p. 43), which are close to the Baker Street station of the Metropolitan railway. The large building op- posite Mme. Tnssand's is the Marylebone Workhouse (see PI. R, 20). The summit of Primrose Hill [PI. B, 14; 205 ft.), an eminence to the N. of Regent's Park, from which it is separated by the canal and a road, commands a very extensive view. On the E. and S., as far as the eye can reach, nothing is seen but the roofs and spires of the stupendous city of London, while on the N. the green hills of Hampstead and Highgate form the picturesque background of a landscape which contrasts pleasantly with the dingy buildings of the metropolis. At the S. base of the hill there is an open-air gymnasium ; a refreshment-room has also been opened. A 'Shak- speare Oak' was planted on the S. slope of the hill in 1864, on the tercentenary celebration of the great dramatist's birth. To the N.W. in Finchley Road, near the Swiss Cottage Station (Metropolitan), stands New College, for the education of ministers of the Congregational Body. Among its past professors have been some men of considerable note. It contains a good theological library. The building was erected about 25 years ago in the midst of what was then green fields, and is admired for its style and pro- portions. — Farther out in the Finchley Road (beyond PI. B, 5) is the new Hackney Congregational College , erected in 1887 at a cost of about 23,000^. Lord's Cricket Ground (PI. B, 12; p. 47), in St. John's Wood Road (Metropolitan station, seep. 36), to the W. of Regent's Park, is thronged with a large and brilliant crowd of spectators on the occasion of the principal cricket matches, particularly when Cam- bridge is disputing the palm of victory with Oxford, or, better still, Eton with Harrow ; and it then presents a characteristic and impos- ing spectacle, which the stranger should not fail to see. Admission on ordinary days 6d. ; during great matches, which are always ad- Baedekbe, London. 9th Edit. 16 242 1% The BRITISH MUSEUM. vertised beforehand, Is. or 2s. 6d. The ground was purchased hy the Marylebone Cricket Club for a large sum, to prevent it from being built upon. The new Pavilion was built in 1891. The ground is well supplied with luncheon-bars ; and there is also a telegraph-office. 22. The British Museum. ' r The nucleus of the now vast contents of the **British Musetim (PI. R, 28; W) was formed by the library and collection oi Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), who in his will offered them to the State for the sum of 20,000i. (said to have been 30,000i. less than their value). An Act of Parliament was at once passed for the acceptance of the offer, and the collections, along with the Harleian MSS. and the Cottonian Library, were deposited in Montague House, which was bought for the purpose. The presentation by George 111. of a collection of Egyptian antiquities in 1801 , and the purchase of the Townley Marbles in 1805 and the Elgin Marbles in 1816, made such additions to the original contents that a new wing had to be built for their re- ception. The Museum continued to increase, and when George IV. presented it in 1823 with the King's Library, collected by George III., old Montague House was felt to be quite inadequate for its purpose, and a new building, designed by Sir Robert Smirke and completed by his younger brother Sydney Smirke, was erected on its site between 1823 and 1852. The new Reading Room (see p. 265) was added in 1857, and since 1879 a new gallery for the Mauso- leum marbles and the entire 'White Wing', on the S.E. side (p. 264) have been erected from a bequest by Mr. William White. The con- tents of the British Museum are at present arranged in seven sec- tions, each under the special superintendence of an Under Librarian or Keeper. These sections are as follows : Printed Books (Maps and Plans), Manus(;ripts, Prints and Drawings, Egyptian and Assyrian Antiquities, British and Mediaeval Antiquities and Ethnography, Greek and Roman Antiquities, and Coins and Medals. The Natural History sections are now at S. Kensington (see p. 278). Wherever it is practicable, the names are attached to the different objects. For a thorough study of the collections the excellent official cata- logues are indispensable; for a hasty visit the following directions may suflice. Courses of lectures on the various antiquities of the Museum are delivered here by experts from time to time. — The number of visitors to the British Museum in 1893, exclusive of readers and students, was 538, 560. The Museum is open free on every week-day from 10 a.m. till 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the season; and the various sections are open also from 8 to 10 p.m. as follows: on M(»n. and Frid. the Egyptian, Assyrian, Semiiic, Religious, and American Collections; on Tues. and Thurs., the MtiS., King's Library, Porcelain and Glass Pr nts and Drawings, and the Prehistoric, Ethnographical, and MLdiseval Collections; and on Wed. and Sat., the Greek and 1-ioman Collections. The general public are not ad- mitted to the British, llediaival, and Ethnographical deoartments or to thA ' M'.iiiii;ii','s • I Room M Komi Tlf".... ,l".I L Fourth Vase Room tatjerrjK::*; "Wagner tDelies' Geol-Xstitb^Leipsic. i - L-,J --J 1 .1 '•y'l "^ t^ I IHl^- £ BRITISH MUSEUM. "Warier ilL'bQt On^Zi i' 1 ^TTTTT" m , fl Jl, J ..:,:; 4^ READING ROOM m J ■•'■ l_. |jl^ r :''-V::::r:T-''-:!HmiHl ^'! — t^i_i I BRITISH MUSEUM. ', i^'. ?:\r c 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 243 rooms in the White Wing on Tues. and Thurs., these days being reserved for students; but strangers will obtain admission to the closed sections without difficulty. The Uluseum is shut on Good Friday and Christmas Day. — Sticks and umbrellas are left in the hall. Catalogues may be ob- tained in the hall, or from the attendants in the various sections. Those offered for sale outside are not trustworthy. Good photographs of several of the most interesting drawings and sculptures in the Museum may be purchased in the chief librarian's office. The Principal Facade, towards (S.) Great Russell Street, with two projecting wings and a portico in the centre, is 370 ft. in length. In front it has an Ionic colonnade of 44 columns. The pediment above the Portico, which is borne by two rows of eight columns, is adorned with sculptures by Westmacott : on the right, Progress of the Human Race; on the left, allegorical figures of Mathematics, the Drama, Poetry, Music, and Natural Philosophy. The Entrance Hall, which in 1877 was enlarged by an ex- tension towards the N., measures 62 ft. in length. The ceil- ing is embellished with encaustic painting. The statue of Shak- speare on the right, at the entrance to the library, chiselled by Roubiliac, was presented by Garrick, the actor. Beside it is a bust of Sir A. H. Layard (d. 1894). On the W. side of the hall is the principal staircase, ascending to the first floor. To the left of it is a bust of the Duke of Marlborough, by Rysbrack, to the right, a bust of the Earl of Chesterfield. By the door leading into the sculpture room is a statue of Mrs. Darner, the sculptress, by Westmacott. Various Buddhist sculptures from the Punjab and Amravati in South India, dating from the 4th cent. A.D., are also exhibited on the staircase. The Room of Inscriptions lies to the N. of the entrance-hall. To the right and left, as we enter, Grseco-Roman statues of *Thalia, muse of comedy, and Ariadne. This room contains a representative series of Greek and Roman inscriptions , round the walls, and also the following sculptures : To the left: Statue of Marcus Aurelius, in civil costume, from Egypt; marble vase with Bacchic relief; Bust of Antisthenes; Bust of Anacreon (0 ; below, Busts of a Greek philosopher and of Periander; Female statue, in rough workmanship; 19. Hadrian in military costume (legs and arms re- stored). In the centre of this part of the room : *Greek cratera from the Villa of Hadrian, round the upper part of which are reliefs of Satyrs making wine; on pedestals round the last, four cinerary urns. — To the right: Unknown figure in military costume, from Egypt; "Marble patera, with a relief of a Maenad, from Hadrian's Villa; Bust of Meliodorus (?) ; Demosthenes; Votive reliefs of articles of the toilet; above, Busts of Diogenes (V) and Hippocrates (?); then Busts of Epicurus and Euripides (above); Bust of Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus, propraetor of Gyrene; Antoninus Pius; Unknown Greek philosopher; Statue of a Roman poet(?); 9. Unknown statue in civil costume. In the centre : *Equestrian statue, restored as Caligula; on pedestals round the last, two bases for can- delabra; 56. Mithras sacrificing a bull; 54. Group of two dogs; 30. Sphinx. From the Hall we first turn to the right into the Library, and enter the room which contains the collection of 20,240 vols, be- queathed to the Museum by Thomas Grenville. The glass-cases contain a chronological series of Illuminated MSS. from the 10th to the 16th century. Case I (to the left). Greek MSS. of 10-13th cent. : MSS. illuminated by English artists, 10-llth cent. — Case II. 16* 244 1% THE BRITISH MUSEUM. MSS. of 12-13th cent.: Psalters; IT. Diurnale; -18. Roll with outline tinted drawings from the life of St. Guthlac of Croyland. — Cases III & IV. MSS. of 14th cent. : copies of the Apocalypse ; breviary ; summaries of ancient history in French. — 38. Duiandus de Divinis Ofliciis j 39. Latin poems by Petrarch';; tutor; 40. Latin treatise on virtues and vices; 41- Dante's Di- vine Comedy with miniatures; French religious books. — Case V. English and French MSS. of 15th cent.: 48. Roman de la Rose; 52. French ro- mances, presented by Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, to Margaret of Anjou, contort of Henry YI. ; 56. Froissart's Chronicle. — Case VI. French, English, and Italian MSS. of the 15th cent.: 57. Lectionary, with portrait of Sifer Was, the illuminator; copies of Hours of the Virgin. — Case VH. MSS. of 15th and 16th cent.: G6. Plutarch's Lives; 84. Splendor Soils, an al- chemical work; Books of Hours. — In the lower divisions of Cases I, IV, V, and YII are large MSS. chiefly of the 15th century. — Case VIII, be- tween Cases II and IH, contains specimens of Bindings of MSS. of the iO-16th centuries. We uext enter the hall containing the Manuscripts, the cases in which are filled with numerous interesting autographs and treasures of a kindred nature. Case I (on the left, divided into 6 sections) contains autograph writ- ings of celebrated men, English and foreign, including Luther, Calvin, Melanchthon , Erasmus of Rotterdam ; Archbishop Cranmer, Sir Thomas More , Sir Francis Drake , Sir John Hawkins , Sir Walter Raleigh , Sir Philip Sidney, Francis Bacon, Prince Rupert of the Palatinate, Sir Isaac Newton, Michael Angelo, Albert Diirer, Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Galileo, Moliere, Voltaire, Prior, Swift, Addison, Steele, Dryden, Pope, Washington, Napoleon I. Case II is occupied with autographs of English Sovereigns : Richard II., Henry IV., Henry V., Henry VI. , Edward IV., Edward V., Henry VII., Henry VIII., Catharine of Arragon, Anne Boleyn, Edward VI., Jane Grey, Queen Mary , Queen Elizabeth , James I. , Charles I. , Oliver Cromwell, Charles II., James II., William HI., Queen Anne, George I., George II., George III., George IV., William IV., and Queen Victoria (pencil signa- ture written at the age of four years). Case III (at right angles to the last case) contains autographs of British Statesmen and Commanders : Wolsey, Burghley, Strafford, Hamp- den , Marlborough, Bolingbroke, Sir Robt. Walpole, Chatham, Clive, Warren Hastings, Burke, Pitt, Fox, Nelson, Wellington, Peel, Palmerston,. Earl of Derby, Benjamin Disraeli, General Gordon. In the small triangular case between the last two is a Commentary on the Decretals of Pope Innocent IV. in the state in which it was left after a fire at Ashburnham House, Westminster, in 1731. Beyond Case III is Case G, containing a volume of the Cudex Alexandrinus and the books of Genesis and Exodus according to the Syriac Version. The former, dating from the 5th cent. , ranks with the contemporary Codex Sinaiticus at St. Peters- burg and the Codex Vaticanus at Rome as one of the three oldest Greek MSS. of the Bible. The Syriac MS., from the Nitrian desert, Egypt, was written at Amid in the year of the Greeks 775, A.D. 464, and is believed to be the oldest dated MS. of any entire books of the Bible now extant. The series is continued in Table-Case IV, at the S. end of the room, containing historical autographs: Declaration signed by 8 bishops (1538j; letter of Perkin Warbeck, the pretended son of Edward IV. ; auto- graphs of several English sovereigns, Claverhouse, 'Junius', Wilkes, Alger- non Sidney , Oliver Cromwell ;' etc. — Table-Case V contains Literary Dramatic, and Musical Autographs: Camden, Dr. Donne, Jeremy Taylor, Pepys, George Fox, Whitelield, Richard Baxter, Wesley, llichardson. Goldsmith, Sterne, Johnson, Boswell, Garrick, Sarah Siddons, Kemble, Kean, Wilkie, Flaxman, Turner, Gray ('Elegy'), Burns, Keats, Shelley, Coleridge, Wordsworth, Lamb, Sydney Smith, Hood, Lytton, Dickens (last letter he wrote), Carlyle, Browning, Handel, Beethoven, Haydn, Schubert, Mendelssohn, Goethe," i^chiller. We now retrace our steps to the door by which we entered, and 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 245 begin our examination of tlie cases on the right side. The first six frames contain royal documents (charters , grants , etc.) from the 9th to the 14th cent, including an autotype copy of Magna Charta (1215); docu- ments of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, Henry II., Henry I., Edward the Con- fessor, Canute the Dane, the Saxon King Edgar, etc. Case VI contains autograph writings of Robert Burns (Autobiography), Walter Scott ('Kenilworth'j, Torquato Tasso ('Torismondo'). Sterne, Locke, Jean Jacques Rousseau, Pope, Milton, Samuel Johnson, Chatterton, Defoe, Southey, Coleridge, Byron, Ben Jonson, and Lord Macaulay •, Milton's copy of the Bible (in the triangular part of the case); some texts of Scripture in the handwriting of Edward VI. -, the prayer-book of Lady Jane Grey ; a book of prayers copied out by Queen Elizabeth ; will of Mary, Queen of Scots; note-book of the Duke of Monmouth; original MSS. of Charles I., James I., and Frederickfthe Great. — In the small adjoining Case T is a copy of Wyclifle's Bible (14th cent), with illuminations. — Case H, against the opposite pilaster, contains an illuminated copy of the Vulgate (840). Ad- jacent, on the pilaster, are an autograph of Edmund Spenser; the deed of sale of 'Paradise Losf , with Milton's signature; and an autotype facsimile of Shakspeare's will. — Case K , against the N.E. pilaster, contains a double roll of the Pentateuch, on goatskin (14th cent.). Cases A-F, in the middle of the room, contain European and Oriental MSS., arranged to show the progress of the art of writing. A. Greek MSS., some on yiapyrus. B,C. Latin MSS., including illuminated Gospels, Psalters, and Hours. D. English MSS.: a unique copy of Beowulf, on vellum (ca. 1000 A.D.); Anglo-Saxon Chronicle to 1066; Piers Plowman (before 1400) ; poem by Occleve, with a portrait of Chaucer on the margin (early 15th cent.). E,F, Sanskrit, Pali, Cingalese, Arabic, Persian, and other Oriental MSS., some of which are of enormous value. — A central case contains chronologically arranged MS. sources of English history, shewing how the history was recorded before the invention of printing: 2. Bede's Ecclesiastical History; 3. Anglo-Saxon Chronicle; 4. Wace's Ro- man de Rou; 12. Matthew Paris; etc. At the entrance to the King's Library are two glass-cases (N and O) with impressions of the Great Seals of the British sovereigns (left) and of various baronial and ecclesiastical seals (right). In frames attached to the wainscot are exhibited several Deeds and Papyri, four of the latter, in Coptic, relating to the monastery of St. Phoeb- ammon, near Hermonthis, Egypt. To the S. E. of tlie Manuscript Saloon is the MSS. Boom for Students. The door to the E. opens on the corridor leading to the Newspaper Reading Room and to the staircase ascending to the Print Department (see p. 264). — On the N. it is adjoined hy the King's Library, a collection of 80,000 vols, made by George III. and presented to the nation by George IV. , and arranged in a hall built expressly for the purpose, which extends along the whole breadth of the building. The collection is remarkable for the beauty and rarity of the works contained in it. Changes in the arrange- ments are not infrequent , and temporary exhibitions illustrating special periods are held here from time to time. Twenty-two cases arranged on each side of the hall contain typo- graphical specimens in illustration of the history of printing, in chrono- logical order. Cases I and II contain a collection of 'block-books', i.e. books printed froin carved blocks of wood. Among them are several specimens of the Biblia Pauperum ; Defensorium inviolatee Virginitatis beatse Marise Vir- ginia (1470); Ars moriendi; Temptationes Demonis ; Mirabilia Romse; some old German calendars , including that of Regiomontanus printed at Nuremberg in 1474, the earliest known; Planetenbaeh , or book of the planets (1470), etc. 246 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. Cases III and IV are occupied by the earliest German printed books, including the Mazarin Bible, the first printed Bible, printed by Guten- berg and Fust (Mayence, 1455; a copy of this Bible was sold in 1873 for 3400^); the first psalter, printed on parchment in 1457 by Fust and Schoeffer (the first printed book bearing a date); Bible printed by Fust and Schoeffer in 1462 (the first printed Bible bearing a date); Decretum Gratiani, printed at Strassburg by Eggesteyn in 1471) ; Latin Bible, printed at Bamberg in 1460; the first German Bible (printed at Strassburg about 1466). Case V contains early German and Dutch books : Steinhoewers German Chronicle (Ulm, 1473); Rynaert die Vos (Gouda, 1479), the first printed edition in any language. Case VI contains examples of Italian typography : Cicero, De Oratore (Subiaco 1465), the first work printed in Italy; Livy, printed at Rome in 1469 by Schweinheim and Pannartz, on vellum; Petrarch (Fano, 1503); Lactantius , printed at Subiaco by Schweinheim and Pannartz in 1465; Cicero, Tusculanse Questiones (Rome, 1469); the first printed edition of Dante (Foligno, 1472) ; Virgil , by Aldus (Venice , 1501) ; Tacitus , by Da Spira (Venice, 1469); Cicero, Epistolse Familiares, on vellum (Venice, 1469) ; Ovid (Bologna, 1471). Case VII contains Italian and French printing : Valturius de re mil- itari (Verona, 1472); Lascaris, Greek Grammar (Milan, 1476), the first printed Greek work; .^sop (Milan, 1480); Barzizius, Liber epistolarum (Paris, 1473), the first book printed in France ; L'Art et Science de Rhe- torique, copy belonging to Henry VII. (Paris, 1493). In Case VIII are specimens of English printing: Recuyell of the Historyes of Troye , by Le Fevre , printed abroad by Caxton about 1475 (the first book printed in English) ; the original French of the same work, also printed by Caxton (the first book printed in French) ; The Game and Playe of the Chesse, printed by Caxton about 1475; The Dictes or Sayengis of the Philosophres, printed by Caxton at Westminster in 1477 (the first book printed in England); St. Bonaventura, Speculum vitse Christi, printed on vellum by Caxton in 1488; Prayer-book, printed by Caxton at West- minster in 1490 (unique) ; the first printed edition of Chaucer's Canter- bury Tales, by Caxton, about 1478; 'The Book of St. Albans', a book of the chase, printed at the Abbey of St. Albans in 14S6. Case IX contains early specimens (in several instances the first) of Spanish, Portuguese, Slavonic, Oriental, American, South African, and Australian printing. In Case X are examples of Colophons and early Title-pages. Case XI contains specimens of early printed music. Case XII exhibits portraits of printers aad bibliographers. Case XIII contains specimens of fine and sumptuous printing: Theuerdank, composed by Melchior Pfinzing on the marriage of the Em- peror Maximilian with Mary of Burgundy, and printed at Nuremberg by Schoensperger in 1507; Petrarch, on vellum, printed by Aldus (Venice, 1501), once the property of Isabella Gonzaga, Countess of Mantua; Dante, printed in 1502, also by Aldus at Venice, and the first book which bore the anchor, the distinguishing mark of the Aldine Press; Horace, first edition, from the Aldine press (Venice, 1501); Anacreon, printed in capi- tals (1791); Horace, printed in microscopic type (Paris, Didot, 1828); Ho- mer's Odyssey, in very small type (London, "1831). Case XIV contains works illustrated with wood-cuts and engravings. Ariosto (London, 1591), with engravings; Book of the Passion (Wittenberg, 1521), illustrated by Cranach; old plaving-cards (Amman, Nuremberg, 1588); first and second editions of Holbein'sDance of Death (Lyons, 1538 and 1539); Breydenbach's .Tourney to the Holy Land (Mayence, 14B6), illustrated. In Case XV are specimens of illuminations and sumptuous printing: Euclid, printed by Ratdolt (Venice, 1482); Martial, Aldus (Venice, 1501); Boccaccio, Verard (Paris, 1493); Breviaries, missals, and hours; Virgil, printed by Aldus on vellum (1501); Aulua Gellius, Noctes Attieee, on vellum (Florence, 1513). Case XVI contains books bearing the autographs of the authors or 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 247 early owners: Wittenberg Bible of 1541, with Luther's signature; auto- graphs of Calvin, Lord Bacon, Melanchthon, Michael Angelo, Tasso, Vol- taire, Ben Jonson. LordBurghley, Hentley, Newfon, Coleridge, 'Napoleon I.; proof-sheets of Scott's 'W(iodsto<k\ with notes and correction' by the author. — A Case placed here contains specimens of rocent acquisitions by ihe library (changed from time to time). The case opposite contains selections from the Onental books and MSS. Cases XVII and XVIII are assigned to typographical and literary curiosities: Broadsides and proclam itions ; the first edition of the Book of Common Prayer (1549) ; first editions of several of Shakspeare's works; also of Cervantes, Milton, Defoe, and many others. In Case XVIII are Luther's 9J Theses against the Indulgence of 1517, be'^ide which is one of the Papal Indulgences sold by Tetzel; above, Official duplicate of Lin- coln's proclamation against slavery. Case XIX has specimens of Chinese, Japanese, and Corean printing; and Cases XX, XXI, and XXII, examples of Japanese block -printing in colours. At the N. end of the hall a series of six cases are filled with bound books, many of which are very beautiful specimens of the art of hook- binding, including some by Grolier. Another series (1 to 8) exhibits a collection illns'rating the history of alphabets. Case XXIIl con'ains a facsimile (by Rev. F. T. Havergal) of the Mapi)a Mundi in Hereford Cathedral (1290-1310; see Baedeker^ s Great Britain). Cases XXIV-XXVIII contain good relief maps of Palestine, Mont Blanc, the Western Alps, Mt. Vesuvius, and Mt. Etna. Two other ca<=es contain specimens from a collection of postage-stamps bequeathed by T. K, Tapling, M. P., in 1891. In the lower portions of several cases are placed the 5ri2nvols. (bound in about 10l)0) of the Cbinese Encyclopsedia, a reprint of stand, rd Chinese works executed in the loth century. Near the middle of the hall stand a large celestial globe by Coronelli (Paris, 1693), the constellations on which are very finely engr ved, and a model of the ingenious hanging press employed in the museum library to economize space. At the end of the King's Library is a staircase, leading to the collections of oriental art and ethnography (comp. p. 253). In the meantime, however, we retrace our steps to 'he entrance hall, and pass out of it, to the left, into the *Sculpture Gallery. The first room we enter is the — Eoman Gallery. On the left side are Roman antiquities found in England. The compartments helow the windows con- tain rough-hewn sarcophagi , while by the intervening pilasters are specimens of old Irish characters (Oghams). Above, on the walls to the right and left, are fragments of Roman mosaic pave- ments, discovered in England. On the right (N.) side of the room is ranged a collection of Roman portrait busts and statues (the numbering begins at the W. end of the gallery): 2. Julius Caesar; 3. The youthful Augustus; 4. Augustus; 5. Tiberius; 7. Drusus; 8. Caligula; 47. Iconic female figure; 10. Claudius; 11. Nero; 12. Otho; 14. Domitia; 15. Trajan (of Greek marble); 17, 18. Hadrian; 20. Antinous, favourite of Hadrian; 21. Julia Sabina, Hadrian's consort ; 23. Statue of Hadrian in civil costume ; *24. Antoninus Pius; 25, 26, 27. Marcus Aurelius; 28. Faustina, his consort; 29, 30. Lucius Verus; 32. Lucilla; 33. Commodus ; 34. Crlspina, consort of Commodus ; 35. Pertinax; 36. Septimius Se- 248 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. venis; 16. Iconic female figure; 37. Caracalla; 38. Julia Mamaea, consort of Alexander Severus ; 39, 40. Gordian andSabinia, his •wife ; 41. Otacilia Severa, consort of Philip the Elder; 42. Herennia Etruscilla. consort of Trajan. — We next reach the — First Grseco-Roman Room. This and the two following rooms contain sculptures, executed in Italy, but chiefly by Greek artists or from Greek models ; also perhaps a few Greek originals. L. : 500. Athlete, from Vaison, believed to be a copy of the Diadumenos of Polycleites (another copy stands to the right of the entrancel ; 117. Bust of Homer; 119. Bust of an unknown Greek poet; 112. Statue of Diana; 113. Bust of Diana; *114. Apollo Citharcedus (replica of the statue in the Capitol a< Rome); 115. r.ust of Apollo; 116. Statue of Venus ; 111. Head of Juno; *118. Dancing Satyr (from the Palazzo Rondanini at Rome) ; 109. Satyr playing with the infant Bacchus (from the Palazzo Farnese at Rome); Head of Venus, with remains of flesh colour on the face and neck; 122. Head of Jupiter; 16. Head of Athena; 141. Head of Minerva; 124. Jupiter; Statue of Dionysos (Indian Bacchus), from Posilippo; Canephora. Second Grseco-Roman Room. In the recess on the left: *136. The Townley Venus, found at Ostia; opposite, *250. Discobolus, or the 'quoit- thrower' (ancient copy of the statue by Myron). Round the room are several heads : 156. Muse; 139. Bearded head (known as Diomedes); Aphrodite (?) ; Alexander the Great; Apollo (?) ; *Apollo Musegetes ; Apollo Giustiniani ( late-Romanesque replica of the head of the Apollo Belvedere) ; *151. Head of a hero (Greek original), restored by Flaxman. Third Grseco-Roman Room. On the right (N.) side : *141. Colossal head of Hercules; 143. Sleeping Cupid, with the at- tributes of Hercules; 142. Hercules resting; 144. Hercules sub- duing the Cerynaean stag (archaic relief); 145, 146. Cupid bending his bow; 147. Relief of a youth holding ahorse; 148. Endymion asleep; **149. Iconic female bust (the so-called Clytie), perhaps of Antonia (b. 36 B.C.), daughter of Mark Antony ; 187. Atys ; 129. Barbarian captive; Dacian prisoner (from a group) ; 503. Head of an Amazon; 780. Two youths on horseback; 152. Erato (?); Disco- bolus; 161. Iconic head; 157. Relief of centaur carrying off a wo- man; 140. Bust of Bacchus; 195. Head of Eros ; 201. Cupid or Somnus (fountain figure); 159. Apotheosis of Homer, relief with the name of the sculptor , Archelaus of Priene (found at Bovillae, of the time of Tiberius) ; 160. Head of woman in Asiatic costume; 43. Barbarian chieftain (?) ; 162. Youth in Persian costume, restored as Paris ; 127. Jupiter, as ruler of the celestial and infernal worlds (arms restored); 163. Mithras sacrificing a bull; 164. Term, found near Tivoli ; 165. Actaeon devoured by his dogs (from Lanuvium); 166. Head of Sappho (?); Ganymede (head restored); Bust of Her- mes; 37. Bacchus (herma); 774. Relief, Victory sacrificing to 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 249 Apollo. — West side: *171. Mercury ; *Boy extracting thorn from his foot, found on the Esquiline Hill (marble, under glass). — South side : Head of Diana (archaic) ; 35. Head of Mercury from Tivoli; 176. Relief, Bacchus visiting Icarius ; Two archaistic heads of Dionysos ; Head of athlete ; Diana (archaistic statue) ; 179. Part of a Bacchic Thiasus; 852. Basrelief of Mercury; 131. Jupiter Se- rapis; 154. Heroic head; 103. Head of Minerva; 172. Torso of Ve- nus; Cupid's head; 188, 190. Fauns; 177. Midas(?l; 183, 184. Satyrs; 185. Venus (from Ostia); above. Head of Diana; 178. Sa- tyr, freely restored ; Discus with relief of Apollo and Artemis slay- ing the children of Niobe; 189. Bacchus and Ambrosia; 186. Part of a group of two boys quarrelling at play; 191. Relief of Ariadne (? Penelope; from Cumae); 193. Youthful Bacchus; 192. Water nymph; 195. Bacchic relief with two sitting satyrs; 196. Girl playing with astragali; 195. Cupid on a dolphin, in green basalt, fromEgypt; 128. Minerva (helmet and drapery restored in bronze); 182. Satyr; 133. Ceres; 199. Head of youthful Hercules; 775. Re- lief representing Apollo, Latona, and Diana, with three wor- shippers; 130. Statue of the triple-bodied Hecate ; 202. Head of Venus; 204, 12. Heads of Hercules. The door on the right leads into the Archaic Room ; the stair- case at the extreme end descends to the — Grseco-Eoman Basement Boom, which contains Greek and Ro- man sculptures of various kinds : sarcophagi, reliefs, vases, foun- tain basins, candelabra, table supports, animals, etc. The floor is decorated with a mosaic from a Roman villa at Halicarnassus, 40 ft, long and 13i/2ft. broad, at the upper end of which is represented Amphitrite with two Tritons. On the E. wall is a mosaic from Carthage of a colossal head of a marine deity. Adjacent are two sacriiicial groups in marble, and a relief of two gladiators strugg- ling with a bull. — The annexe contains the heavier objects be- longing to the Etruscan collection (p. 261), other sculptures, and miscellaneous objects. The door on the right in the Third Graeco-Roman Room leads into the — Archaic Boomi which chiefly contains archaic remains from Asia Minor and the Peloponnesus. At the W. end of the room are ten sitting figures, of very early date (580-520 B.C.), which, with the lion and the sphinx near the N. wall, once formed part of the Sacred Way leading to the Temple of Apollo at Branchidae. On a lofty pedestal by the W. wall is a cast of a statue of Nike (Victory) by Paionios (from Olympia) ; at each side a cast of a metope from the temple of Zeus at Olympia. Opposite the Nik^ : *Reliefs from the '■Harpy Tomb' at Xanthus (at the sides sacrificial scenes ; at the ends forms like sirens , bearing away small figures intended to represent departed souls, whose gestures indicate that they are trying to propitiate their captors and gain their compassion). On 250 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. the N. and S. walls are archaic marhle friezes from Xanthus In Lycia, ahove which are imitations of the pediments of a temple, containing casts of the pediment sculptures found in Egina in 1811 (originals in Munich). On the E. wall are plaster casts of four metopes from Selinus in Sicily. By this wall also are fragments from the older temple of Diana at Ephesus (S.E. corner) ; from Mycenae (N.E. corner); and from the temple of Apollo at Nau- kratis. On a pedestal, under glass : Stone statuette of a hunter from Naukratis. Among the other works are : *206. Apollo, known as the Strangford Apollo; 205, 207. Other archaic figures of Apollo; 208. Archaistic head of Apollo ; 96, 97. Female torsos from Xanthus ; 154. Female torso from Attica; 257. Tablet from Mycenae. The Greek Ante-Koom, a small chamber to the N., contains, on the right, a sitting figure of Demeter (Ceres); on the left, *209. Apollo, a celebrated archaic work from the Ohoiseul-Gouffier collection. Beside the latter are two archaic heads copied from the same original as the statue. Here also are glass-cases with two swine (sacred to Proserpine) , statuettes , small heads, and sculp- tured fragments from Gyrene and Priene. The Ephesus Eoom contains fragments of the celebrated Temple of Diana, found by Mr. J. T. Wood in the course of excavations at Ephesus in 1869-74. The remains consist chiefly of the drums and capitals of columns, and fragments of bases and cornices. Among them is the lowest drum of a column with life-size reliefs of Her- mes, Victoria, and a warrior. In this room are placed casts of the Olympian Hermes by Praxiteles and the Venus of Milo (Louvre). To the right is the lower half of a statue of Lucius Verus from Ephesus, proved by the inscription to have been erected before A.D. 161. We now reach the — **EIgin Room, containing the famous Elgin Marbles, being the remains of the sculptures executed by Phidias to adorn the Parthenon at Athens, and considered the finest specimens of the plastic art in existence. They were brought from Athens in 1801-3 by Lord Elgin, at that time British ambassador at Con- stantinople , at a cost of 70,000L, and sold to the English Govern- ment in 1816 for half that sum. The Parthenon, the Temple of Pallas Athena on the Acropolis of Athens, was built by Ictinos, about B.C. 440, in the time of Pericles, the golden age of Athens and of Hellenic art. It was in the Doric order of architecture, and occupied the site of an earlier temple of Athena, which had been destroyed in the Persian war. It was adorned with sculptures under the supervision of Phidias. A statue of Athena , formed of gold and ivory, stood in the interior of the cella. The sculptures preserved here consist of the frieze round the exterior of the cella, 15metopae, and the relics of the two pediments, unfortunately in very imperfect preservation. The figures of the deities represented are most nobly conceived, admirably executed, and beautifully draped. 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 251 The remains of the E. Pediment , representing the Birth of Athena, who, according to Greek mythology, issued in full armour from the head of Zeus, are arranged on the W. (left) side of the room. In the left angle of the tympanum we observe two arms and a mutil- ated human head, in front of which are two spirited horses' heads, also considerably damaged. These are considered to represent a group of Helios , the god of the rising sun , ascending in his chariot from the depths of the ocean, his outstretched arms grasping the reins of his steeds. Next comes Theseus (or Hercules?), who, leaning in a half re- cumbent posture on a rock covered with a lion's hide, seems to be greet- ing the ascending orb of day. This figure, the only one on which the head remains, is among the best preserved in the two pediments. Next to Theseus is a group of two sitting female figures in long drapery, who turn with an appearance of lively interest towards the central group — perhaps the Attic Hours, Thallo and Auxo for Ceres and Proserpine?). Then comes the erect female figure of Iris, messenger of the gods, whose waving robes betoken rapid motion ; the upper part of her body is turned towards the central group, and she seems to have barely wait- ed for the birth of the Goddess before starting to communicate the glad tidings to the inhabitants of earth. The central group, which probably represented Minerva surrounded by the gods, is entirely wanting. The space occupied by it, indicated here by an opening in the middle of the sculptures (partly filled by a Doric cap- ital from the Parthenon), must have measured 33-40 ft. in length. Next comes, on the right, a torso of Victory. Then a noble group of two sitting female forms , in the lap of one of which reclines a third fe- male, probably representing Aglauros, Herse, and Pandrosos, the three daughters of Cecrops (or perhaps the three Fates). Adjacent, in the angle of the tympanum, the torso of Selene (the goddess of the moon), as a charioteer, and by her side the head of one of her coursers. This portion of the frieze is thought to have shown the Moon sinking into the sea at the approach of Day. The horse's head is in good preservation. The remains of the West Pediment are on the opposite side of the room. They are by no means so well preserved as those from the East Pediment, and we can only form an idea of their meaning and connection from a drawing executed by the French painter Carrey in 1674, which contains several groups that are now wanting. The sub- ject of the sculptures is the Strife of Minerva and Neptune for the soil of Athens. By a stroke of his trident Neptune caused a salt-spring to gush forth from the soil, but his gift was outdone by that of Minerva, who produced the olive-tree, and was adjudged the possession of the city. The moment chosen for representation is that, after the decision of the contest, when the two deities part from each other in anger. In the left angle we observe the torso of a recumbent male figure , probably the river god Cephissus. Next to it is a cast of a group of two figures (the original is in Athens), supposed to be Cecrops, the first king of Attica, and his daughter; the male figure is in a semi-recumbent posture, propped upon his left arm, the female kneeling beside him has her right arm round his neck. Next, the torso of a man, perhaps Hermes. The relies of the central group are exceedingly scanty. Of Minerva only the upper part of the head, the right shoulder with part of the armour, and a piece of the segis are preserved. The eyes , which were made of coloured gems , are lost. The cheeks, on close examination, still show traces of painting. A much mutilated torso, consisting of the shoulders alone, is all that re- mains of the rival deity, Neptune. The proportions of these two statues, which, as the central figures, occupied the highest part of the tympanum, are on a much larger scale than those of the others. Next comes a female torso, perhaps Araphitrite; then the lower part of a sitting female form, probably Leucothea; then the cast of a semi-re- cumbent male figure, perhaps the river god Ilissus. Lastly, at the end of the tympanum, is the torso of a recumbent female form, supposed to re- present the nymph Callirrhoe. Around the whole of the hall , at a height of about 41/2 ft. from the 252 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. ground, we observe the **Feieze (about 175 yds. long), which ran round the outside of the cella (or inner sanctuary) under the colonnade enclosing the Parthenon. It forms a connected whole , and represents , chiefly in very low relief, the festive procession which ascended to the Acropolis at the end of the Panathensea , for the purpose of presenting to the Goddess a peplos, or robe, woven and embroidered by Athenian virgins. The priests with sacrificial bulls and horses , the virgins, the warriors on horseback, on foot, and in chariots, and the thronging worshippers of all kinds are executed with admirable taste and skill. The slabs are arranged as far as possible in their original order, the points of the compass being indicated above them. 'On the east side, the side of entrance, Phidias arranged an august assembly of the gods, in whose presence the peplos is delivered to the guardians of the temple (slabs numbered 17-24). These are attended by officials and heralds, followed by trains of noble Attic maidens. The procession is continued along the north and south sides, proceeding in both towards the entrance porch, as though on the west side it had been divided into two. Bulls and lambs for sacrifice follow with their leaders, interspersed with groups of men and women; some bearing gifts in baskets and beautiful vessels on their shoulders. To these are added players on the lute and cithern, who march in front of a train of men and chariots, probably the victors in the contests. The procession is terminated on the two long sides by Athenian youths on horseback, and on the west side we find others still engaged in preparations, in bridling, restraining, and mounting horses'. — Liibke, History of Sculpture. — Most of the pieces of this frieze are but slightly damaged, while some of them are perfectly preserved. A few of the slabs are merely casts of portions of the frieze at Paris and Athens. Above the frieze on the W. wall of the room are 15 *METOP.ffi and casts of four others from the Parthenon, being the sculptures which filled the intervals between the triglyphs of the external frieze. They repre- sent the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse , and are executed in much higher relief than the sculptures of the inner frieze; some of the figures are almost entirely detached , being connected with the background or the adjoining figures at a few isolated points only. On the E. wall are plaster casts from the external frieze of the Temple of Theseus at Athens, representing battle-scenes, partly of the contests of the Greeks with the Centaurs , and three metopse from the same temple with sculptures of the feats of Theseus. Among the numerous other sculptures in the Elgin Room are casts of two marhle chairs from the theatre of Dionysos at Athens (one on each side of the entrance) ; a head of Pericles (apparently a Roman copy of a Greek original) ; a head of Hera from Agrigentum ; a head of .^sculapius. Towards the N. end of the room is an Ionic column from the Erechtheum (5th cent. B.C.), which is the purest existing type of the Ionic style. Near it (in the corner) is a colossal owl. Farther on are one of the beautiful *Canephorse from the Erechtheum ; a colossal sitting figure of Dionysos from the Choragic Monument of Thrasyllos at Athens ; a draped *Torso of ^soulapius from Epidauros; a statue of a youth, probably Eros, from Athens; fragments of columns from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus ; the capital of a Doric column from the Propylseum, the magnificent entrance to the Acropolis. On the E. wall are parts of a frieze from the monument of Thrasyllos. This room also contains a model of the Acropolis and another representing the Parthenon as it appeared after its bombardment by the Venetian General Morosiui in 1687. We now enter the — 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 253 Phigaleian Room, containing the marbles from the Temple of Apollo at Phigaleia in Arcadia. Round the walls are arranged twenty- three slabs from the frieze adorning the interior of the cella. Those on the W. wall represent the contest of the Centaurs and Lapithae, the others, battles between the Greeks and the Amazons. Other fragments from this temple are exhibited in two glass cases in the middle of the room, on either side of a *Bull from the top of a sepulchral stele at Athens. On the wall, in the S.W. angle, are four reliefs and the cast of a fifth from the frieze of the temple of the Wingless Victory at Athens. These represent the Athenians fighting with Greek and Asiatic foes. Near the centre of the W wall, above, are casts from the balustrade of this temple: to the left, * Victory fastening her sandal. The finest of the Oreek Sepulchral Stelae are also placed in this room. To the left of the entrance, Stele from Rhodes with a family group. Of the four tombstones let into the E. wall the finest are that on which an athlete is represented handing his strigil to his slave, and that (to the right) representing an athlete standing alone. On the floor below, tablet conijuemorating the victory of a citharist ; tablet in memory of those who had fallen in battle. On the K. vpall, curious relief of a physician and patient; stele of Xanthippus, vpho is represented holding a votive foot. Beside the N. and W. walls are sepulchral urns. We return to the Elgin Room, and by the door in the centre of the E. side, reach the — Nereid Boom, containing the sculptures from the so-called 'Nereid Monument at Xanthus in Lycia. In the centre is a model of the monument, by Fellows, and on the S. wall of the room is a 'restoration' of one of the sides of the monument. Eight Nereids, some much mutilated, stand in this room. On the wall^ are frag- ments of four friezes that adorned the building. The broad frieze, supposed to have encircled the base, represents a battle of foot- soldiers, some of whom are clad in Asiatic dress; the other narrower friezes bear scenes of war, hunting, banqueting, and sacrifice. On each side of the door on the N. wall, is a lion from the monument, and above the doorway is the E. pediment of the same. We now descend the steps on the left to the Mausoleum Room, added in 1882, containing remains from the **Mausoleum at Hali- carnassus, discovered by Newton in 1857. This celebrated monument (whence the modern generic term 'mausoleum' is derived) was erected by Artemisia in B.C. 352, in honour of her husband Mausolus, King of Caria, and was reckoned among the Seven Wonders of the World. The tomb stood upon a lofty basement, and was surrounded by 36 Ionic columns. Above it was a pyramid rising in steps (24 in number), surmounted by a colossal statue of Mausolus. The monument was in all about 140 ft. in height, and was embellished by a number of statues, lions, and other pieces of sculpture. In the centre of the room are a *Statue of Mausolus (restored from 77 fragments) and a female 254 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. figure (Artemisia) found under the ruins of the pyramid, grouped along with a wheel (largely restored) and fragments of one of the colossal horses of the chariot of Mausolus , so as to suggest their position in a chariot. In the S.W. corner of the room is a well- preserved *Column from the colonnade, with fragments of the architrave. On the E. wall are seventeen slahs of a frieze (zoopho- rus) from the Mausoleum, representing the contests of the Greeks with the Amazons, and above are fragments of another frieze, in had preservation, representing races and the battle of the Greeks with the Centaurs. At the N.E. end of the room is a reproduction of the cornice of the Mausoleum. Among other fragments are a female torso ; eight lions ; fragment of an equestrian figure in Per- sian garb ; part of a colossal ram ; fragments of columns. The room also contains, in the N.W. corner, a number of marbles from the Temple of Athene Polias at Priene, including the dedication of the Temple by Alexander, a colossal arm, hand, foot, and female head, and a draped female torso. On either side of the steps at the S. end is a Lycian Tomb, adorned with sculptures of martial scenes. The Mausoleum Annexe, which opens off the Mausoleum room near the N.W. angle, contains Grseco-Roman sepulchral and votive reliefs, sarcophagi, altars, stelae, etc. On the S. w^all : Slab with the nine Muses; another with Apollo, Minerva, and the Muses, the latter each with a Siren's feather on her head. On the W. wall: Poet reading beside a Muse holding a mask. On the N. wall: Labours of Hercules and Slab with portrait heads of a Roman and his wife, erected by two of their freedmen. We now return across the N. end of the Mausoleum Room to the Assyrian and Egyptian collections , which , next to the Elgin Room , are the most important parts of the British Museum. The **Assyrian Gallery comprises three long narrow rooms, called the Kouyunjik Gallery, the Nimroud Central Saloon, and the Nimroud Gallery ; the Assyrian Transept, adjoining the last of these three ; the Phoenician Room and Assyrian Basement Room ; and finally a room (p. 259) on the second floor. Its contents are chiefly the yield of the excavations of Sir H. A. Layard in 1845-54 at Kouyunjik, the ancient Nineveh, and at Nimroud, the Biblical Calah, but in- clude the collection made by Mr. George Smith in Mesopotamia, as well as contributions from other sources. The Kouyunjik Gallery contains bas-reliefs dating from B.C. 721-625, and belonging to the royal palace of Sennacherib (d. B.C. 681) at Nineveh, afterwards occupied by Sennacherib's grandson, Assurbanipal or Sardanapalus. The older reliefs, dating from the time of Sennacherib, are executed in alabaster, the others in hard, light-grey limestone. We begin our examination at the S.W. corner. No. 1. Esarhaddon, cast from a bas-relief cut in the rock, at the mouth of the Nahr el-Kelb river, near Beirut; 2. Galley with two banks of oars; '3. Colossal face; 4-8. Row of fragments (upper paYt damaged), representing Sennacherib's advance against Babylon; 15-17. Return from battle, with captives and spoil; 18-19. Procession of warriors ; 20-29. Siege of a fortified town (on slab No. 25 is the 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 255 city itself, while 27-29 represent the triumph of the victors). *Nos. 36-43. Series of large reliefs, which decorated the walls of along passage between the palace and the Tigris; on one side, descending the slope, are 14 horses, held by attendants; on the other, ascending, servants with dishes for a feast. The figures, rather under life-size, are beautifully designed. No. 44. Monumental tablet; 45-50. Triumph of Sardanapalus over the Elamites (in limestone, well preserved). Nos. 51-52. Removal of a winged bull on a sledge by means of wooden rollers and levers; to the right, construction of a lofty embankment. Nos. 53-56. Similar scenes in better preservation; 57-59. Sennacherib besieging a city situated on a river (quaintly repre- sented), and receiving the spoil and prisoners ; 60. Figure with the head of a lion, bearing a knife in the right hand, which is held up. The glass-cases in the middle of the hall contain some of the most interesting of the cuneiform tablets and cylinders from the library enlarged "by Sardanapalus at Nineveh, including, historical, geographical, philolo- gical, ofticial, and legal documents ot great value. Other tablets bear prayers, incantations, omens, etc. The entire collection of cuneiform tablets in the Museum exceeds 60,000, of which about one-third come from Kou- yunjik. — We now enter the — Nimroud Central Saloon, containing the sculptures (dating from B.C. 880-630), discovered by Sir A. H. Layard at Nimroud, on the Tigris, situated about 18 M. below Nineveh. They are from the palace built by Esarhaddon, the successor of Sennacherib, but some of them are of a much earlier date than that monarch, who used the fragments of older buildings. The reliefs on the left are from a Temple of the God of War. We begin to the left of the entrance from the Kouyunjik Gallery. Large relief, representing the evacuation of a conquered city ; below, the triumphal procession of King Tiglath-Pileser III. in his war-chariot. Co- lossal head of a winged man-headed bull; opposite, another similar, but smaller head. At the central pillars, two statues of the god Nebo. Then, black marble obelisk, adorned with five rows of reliefs; the cuneiform inscriptions record events in the history of Shalmaneser II. Opposite, in the middle of the room, seated statue of Shalmaneser II., in black basalt (about 850 B.C.). At the entrance to the Nimroud Gallery, on the right, a colossal winged *Lion; on the left, a colossal winged bull, both with human heads- Then bas-reliefs, evacuation of a conquered town and other scenes from the campaigns of Tiglath-Pileser. Monolith (figure in relief) of Samsi-Rammanu, son of Shalmaneser II. (B.C. 825-812); monolith of Shalmaneser (B.C. 850). At the entrance to the Kouyunjik Gallery, a colos- sal lion from the side of a doorway (B.C. 880). Nimroud Gallery. We begin at the S.W. corner. The slabs on the W. side are arranged as they originally stood in the palace of Assur Nasir-Pal (885-860 B.C.) at Nimroud." Nos. 2-16 are martial and hunting-scenes in the life of Assur-Nasir-Pal. On the E. side of the gallery are colossal bas- reliefs ; 18. Winged figure with ibex and ear of corn; 19. Foreigners bring- ing apes as tribute; 20. King Assur-Nasir-Pal in a richly embroidered dress, with sword and sceptre ; *21-26. The king on his throne surrounded by attendants and winged figures with mystic offerings ; 28, 29. Winged figure with a thunderbolt, chasing a demon; 36. Lion hunt; 37-41. Re- presentation of religious service. The slabs with the larger reliefs bear inscriptions running horizontally across their centres. The glass-cases in the middle of the room contain bronze dishes with engraved and chased decorations, admirably executed, other bronze articles of different kinds, weights in the form of lions couchant, weapons, domestic utensils, etc. Cases F, G contain a collection of ivory 'Carvings, some with Egyptian figures. Between the cases (from S. to N.), part of a broken obelisk of Assur-Nasir-Pal; statue of that king on its original pedestal; inscribed limestone altar and coffer; m(molith of Assur-Nasir-Pal (B.C. 880). — The door in the N.W. corner of this room leads into the anteroom of the — 256 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM Assyrian Basement, wWch consists of a large glass-roofed hall, used chiefly as a lecture-room, -with a gallery or balcony round it. On the walls of both hall and balcony are reliefs from Nlmroud and from Kouyunjik, excavated by Messrs. Rassam and Loftus. These reliefs, belonging to the latest period of Assyrian art, are through- out superior to those in the upper rooms, both in design and exe- cution. We enter the gallery to the left of the entrance. On the E. wall: 33-5:3. Assurbanipal (668-626 B.C.) hunting lions. — S. or end wall: 103-117. Hunting scenes. — W. wall: 118, 119. Assurbani- pal offering libations over dead lions; 63. Guards; 64-69. Attendants with dead lions and hunting-gear; 70-72. Laden mules; 73,74. Attendants with hunting-gear; 13, 15. Soldiers; 19, 20 Soldiers and captives; 21-24. As- sault un the city of Lachish; 25, 26. Prisoners and booty from Lachish; 27-32. Sennacherib (705-681 B.C.) before Lachish; 17, 18. Mythological sub- jects; 619. Tiglath-Pileser III. (745-727 B.C.) receiving the submission of a foe; 861. Siege of a city by Tiglath-Pileser III. — We have now reached the anteroom again, which contains inscriptions and reliefs of mytholog- ical subjects. — We descend the staircase to the basement proper, and turn to the right to enter the hall. On the E. wall: Mythological reliefs and cuneiform inscriptions; 96,98. Servants and warriors; 121. Assurbanipal and his wife banqueting in an arbour; 122. Servants carrying a dead lion; 124. Musicians; 83-87. Assur- banivals war against the Arabians; 88. War against the Ethiopians. — S. or end wall: Large reliefs of the capture of a city in Susiana and the reception of captives. — At this end of the room is a glass-case contain- ing the bronze bands that adorned the gates of Tell-Balawat, with reliefs recording the victories of Shalmaneser II. — W. wall: 89-.J4. War against the Babylonians; 12, 14. Musicians; 9-11, 16. Warriors; 1-8. Scenes of war; Bringing home the heads and spoil of conquered enemies; Warriors pre- paring their repast. 618. Royal chariot of Tiglath-Pileser III. — High up on the N. wall is a piece of pavement from the palace of Sardanapalus. By the door is a cast of the Sarcophagus of Eshmunazar (ca. B.C. 360; original in the Louvre). The Nimroud Gallery is adjoined on the S. by the Assyrian Transept, which in its western half is a continuation of the Nim- roud Gallery [monuments from the time of Assur-Nasir-Pal), ' while the eastern part contains antiquities from Khorsabad (about B.C. 720), from the excavations of Messrs. Rawlinson and Layard. In the middle of the W. side is the monolith of Assur-Nasir-Pal, with a portrait in relief. In front of it is an altar, which stood at the door of the Temple of the God of War. At the sides are two colossal winged *Lions, with human heads and three horns, from the sides of a doorway. To the right of the entrance from the Nimroud Gallery is a torso with inscriptions; to the left, upper part of a broken obelisk (B.C. 1100). On the wall are reliefs and inscriptions from the palace of the Persian kings at Persepolis (B.C. 500) and casts of Pehlevi inscriptions from Hadji Abad (near Persepolis). — In the E. or Khorsabad section, two colossal animals with human heads, adjacent to which are two colossal human figures. Within the recess thus formed are fragments of bas-reliefs from the same ?lace, some with traces of colour, and inscribed tablets from Kouyunjik. 'o the right, opposite the window, a relief of a hunting-scene in black marble, the only slab obtained at Khorsabad by Sir Henry Layard. The collection of *Egyptian Antiquities fills three halls on the ground-floor, and four rooms in the upper story. The antiquities, which embrace the period from B.C. 3600 to A.D. 350, are ar- ranged in chronological order. The Southern Gallery, which we enter first, is devoted to antiquities of the latest period. 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 257 Southern Egyptian Gallery. Section 1 : monuments of the period of the Roman dominion. Section 2: time of the Ptolemies. In the middle is the celebrated 'Stone of Rosetta', a tablet of black basalt with a triple inscription. It was found by the French near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, but passed into the possession of the English in 1802. One of the inscriptions is in the hieroglyphic or sacred character , the second in the enchorial, demotic, or popular character, and the third in Greek. It was these inscriptions which led Young and Champollion to the dis- covery of the hieroglyphic language of ancient Egypt. The remaining part of the gallery contains monuments from the 30th to the 19th Dynasty (beginning about B.C. 1330). To the left, sarcophagus of Psammetichus, an official of the 18th Dyn.(?); to the right, sarcophagus of a priest of Ptah; to the right, sarcophagus of Hanata, a temple official of the 26th Dyn., upon it his statue which was found inside; to the left, sarcophagus of King Nectanebus I. (about B.C. 378), with reliefs; to the right, sarco- phagus of a priest of Memphis; right and left, two obelisks erected by Nectanebus I. before the temple of Thoth at Memphis. — To the left, mummy-shaped sarcophagus from Thebes (26th Dyn.); to the right, *Sar- cophagus of the Queen of Amasis II. (from Thebes); to the left, green granite sarcophagus of a royal scribe, with reliefs ; to the right, part of a seated colossus of Osorkon II. (22nd Dyn.), beside it, its head. — To the left, granite column from Bubastis, with palm-capital; to the right, statue of the Nile; to the left, Apries; between them is a colossal scarab sens in granite; to the right, granite column from Heracleopolis; right and left, two sitting figures of the goddess Sekhet or Bast (with the head of a eat). — To the right, sitting figures of a man and a woman, in sandstone; to the left, King Menephtah II. on his throne. Between the columns at the entrance to the Central Saloon: on the right, wooden statue of a king of the 19th Dyn.; on the left, wooden statue of Ramses II. — The — Central Egyptian Saloon chiefly contains antiquities of the times of Ramses the Great, the Sesostris of the Greeks. In the middle are a colossal fist from one of the statues in front of the temple of Ptah at Mem- phis, and a granite lion, from Benha el-Asal; to the left, two colossal heads, the one a cast from a figure of Ramses at Mitrahineh, the other in granite from the Memnonium at Thebes. To the right, a statue of the king in black basalt. Between the columns, at the entrance to the Northern Gallery: on the right, granite statue of Ramses II., from Thebes; to the left, a wooden figure of King Seti I. [To the E. of the Central Egyptian Saloon, opposite the entrance to the Nereid Room (p. 253), is the Eefreshment Room (poor).] Northern Egyptian Gallery, chiefly containing antiquities of the time of the 18th Dynasty, under which Egypt enjoyed its greatest prosperity. On the left and right, statues of King Horus in black granite, and two lions in red granite (from Nubia). In the centre is a colossal ram's head from Karnak. To the right and left are sitting figures of King Ameno- phis in., in black granite, from Thebes. On the left is a tablet recording the Ethiopian conquests of Amenophis III. Opposite is a colossal head of Amenophis III., called by the Greeks Memnon (B.C. 1500); De Quincey speaks of this head as uniting 'the expressions of ineffable benignity with infinite duration'. On the left, column with a capital of lotus leaves. To the right and left are two colossal heads, found near the 'Vocal Memnon', at The- bes. Several repetitions of the statue of the goddess Bast, which is distin- guished by the cat's head (in accordance with the Egyptian custom of repre- senting deities with the heads of the animals sacred to them). Black granite figure of Queen Mautemua seated in a boat. In the middle is the colossal head of King Thothmes III., found at Karnak, adjoining which on the right is one of the arms of the same figure. On the right is a monument, the four sides of which are covered with figures of Thothmes III. and gods. To the left, small sandstone figure of an Egyptian prince. The shelves beneath the windows of the Egyptian galleries contain stelse , inscribed tablets, funeral jars, etc. Below are larger slabs (some with the inscriptions picked out in red for the convenience of visitors), Bardekbb, London. 9th Edit. 17 258 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. wall-paintings, etc. Smaller antiquities and fragments are ranged beside the walls (many under gias). — The — Northern Egyptian Vestibule contains antiquities of the period em- braced by the first twelve dynasties, and particularly that of the fourth dynasty (about 3000 B.C.J, when Egypt enjoyed a very high degree of civilisation. Above the door is a plaster cast of the head of the northern colo.9sal figure of Eamses at Abu-Simbel (Upper Egypt). Opposite the Northern Vestibule is a staircase leading to the Upper Floor. On the wall of the staircase are Mosaics from Hali- carnassus, Carthage, and Utica. The ante -room at the top of the stairs contains glass-cases with Cyprian sculptures (p. 260). To the left are four rooms filled with smaller Egyptian antiquities. First Egyptian S,oom contains a '"Collection of mummies and mummy- cases or coffins, from about B. C. 3 00 to the Roman period. The wall- cases, beginning to the left of the entrance, contain the coffins. Case 1. Fragments of coffin of King Mycerinus, of the 4th l)yn. (about B.C. 3600). In the top of the standard-case immediately opposite are the portions of the body found with this coffin. — Gases '3-7. Coffins of the 18th Dyn. (B.C. 1600). In Case 7 is a fragment of the alabaster sarcophagus of King Seti I. — Case 8. Coffin of the 20th Dvn. Gases &-20. Coffins of the 22nd and 26th Dyn. (B.C. 800-660). Cases 21-38. Later Coffins. The mummy in Case 37 is .'^aid to have once been in the possession of Kell Gwynne. — The standard cases A to R, in the centre tif the room, contain mummie.s, the oldest being nearest the door. — On the walls of the room are ca-ts and paintings. In a glass-case below the windows is a hieroglyphic pa- pyrus of Netchemet , a queen of the 21st Dynasty , with chapters and illustrations from the Book of the Dead. Adjacent are photographs of some of the royal mummies discovered in 1882 at Der el-Bahri (see Baedeker''s Upjier Egypt). Second Egyptian Room. The Standard-Gases S-FF and the Wall-cases 1-16 contain the continuation of the collection of mummies and mummy- cases. In wall-cases 2, 3 are two Portraits of Grseco-Egyptian ladies, which are the oldest known portraits on wood, in case 3 is a mummy of a GrfPco-Egyptian child (A.D. lUO), with portrait and wrappin;^s. — Wall- Gases n-2h. Ushabti figures in limestone, marble, steatite, wood, etc., which were buried with the mummies to serve the deceased in the lower world. — Wall-Gases 30-:j3. Canopic .iar-^, in which were interred the embalmed intestines of the mummies. — Wall-Gases o4-3B. Painted wooden ligures of Ptah-Sokar-Osiris. a triad connected with the future life. — On the wind- ow-wall are frames containing sepulchral tablets. Third Egyptian Room. Wall-Cases. Cases 4:8-53. Mummies of animals. Gases 5i-5T . Pillows or head-rests in w<'od and clay, chests to hold can- opic jars (see above). Case 58. Sepulchral boxes in the shape of temples. Cases 59-80 ci'utain an extensive collection of small figures of Egyp tian gods in various materials, and of the animals sacred to them. Above cases 65-75 are two ends of a shrine from a sacred boat, and figures of Osiris, Chnemu, and Anubis. — Case 81. Terra-ct tta cones, bearing the names of kings and high officials (chiefly from Thebes). C'Jses 82-85. Sep- ulchral boxes and tablets (B.C. 1400-200). Gases 86-i'l. Mummies of animals ; above cases 82-90 are terra-cotta jars each containing an ibi'^-mummy. — Table Cases. Ga^'e A. Writing apparatus and materials; wax-tablets, o.''t- raca or potsherds used for writing on. Case B. Armour and weapons: No. 5495. Bronze cylinder bearing the name of Pepi I. (B. C. 3233), perhaps the moxt ancient bronze article extant. In the lower part of the case are a rope-ladder, crocodile-skin armour, and flint-. — Case C. Wi- lound in a temple at Thebes (about B.C. 1500); reed wig-box; toilet articles. An adjoining case contains some beautiful specimens of Egyptian metal-work: No. 2277a. Brnn/e statuette of Nectanebus II.-, 5. Silver figure of Amen-Ra; 86a. Gold figure of Chonsu. Stands 2)., H. Models of obelisk-'. Case E. Food and fruits found in tombs. Case F. Tools and implements. Case 0. Shoes and tandals. Case K. Spinning implements and weapons in wood: 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 259 No. 20648. Box of flint-headed arrows. Below are specimens of ancient Egyptian and Coptic linen. Case I. Sepulchral tablets in wood. Case be- tween G and I. Models of boats used to transport the bodies across the Nile. — Beneath the windows is a long frame containing a facsimile of the Book of the Dead. Between the second and third windows hangs a specimen of coloured worsted work. Fourth Egyptian Room. Wall -Oases. Cases 100-105. Sepulchral vessels, in alabaster, variegated marble, and stone. Cases 106-113. Egyptian earthenware (B. C. 1700-400). Cases lM-119. Egyptian porcelain. In the lower part of the cases, glazed tiles from Tell el-Yehudiyeh. Cases 120-133. Earthenware (B. C. 600-100) : No. 22356 (case 123), neck of a wine-jar, sealed with the seal of Aahmes II. (B.C. 572). Cases 134:-131 . Painted earthen- ware etc. of the Greek period. Case 138. Bricks, stamped with the names of kings. Cases 139-14:3. Figures of gods, men, and animals; terracotta and porcelain lamps etc. (Grfeco-Roman period). Series of sunk reliefs in sandstone from Ptolemaic temples. Cases 143-150. Domestic articles. Cases 151-153. Chairs and seats of various kinds. Cases 154-162. Por- trait and votive figures of kings, priests, ladies, etc. Cases 163-167. Sepul- chral vessels. — Table-Cases. Case A. Musical instruments, spoons, ivory ornaments, glass bottles and vases. Case B. Beads in porcelain and glass; modern forgeries of Egyptian antiquities. Case C. Bronzes, toys, draughts- men, dice, etc. Beiow, models of a granary, houses, potter's yard, boat- cabin, etc. Case D. Scarabs and cylinders, used as amulets, in steatite, stone, carnelian, porcelain, etc. Case E. Toilet articles; vessels for hold- ing cosmetics, perfumes, etc. Case F. Scarabs in stone and porcelain; rings. — Case G. "Throne, with gilded reliefs, from Thebes (Greeco-Roman period); ivory and wO"den draughtsmen; draught-board; b'ue porcelain beads. CaseH. Scarabs in basalt, stone, porcelain, etc. ; porcelain 'Utchats\ or symbolic eyes of the sun; rings; beads; crowns. Case I. Jewellery. Case K. Miscellaneous porcelain articles. Case L. Domestic furniture. Case M. Antiquities of late periods: terracottas of Gr?eco-Roman period; ivory ornaments, leaden weights, etc. Coptic crosses, beils, etc. ; moulds, bronze stamps, silver and bronze articles. Case 2f. Gnostic gems, engraved with magic formulpe, gods, demons, animals, etc. — The casts on the N. and S. walls are of sculptures in the rock-temple of Bet el-Walli in Nubia. Babylonian and Assyrian Room. To the left: fc07. Black basalt figure of King Gudea of Babylon (about B. C. 2500); 99. Boundary-stone (B. C. 1320). Pier-case A. Gate-sockets and boundary-stones ; Table-case B. Terra- cotta cones, stone tablets, etc., with inscriptions; bronze figures; stone cylinder-seals (impressions, see Case C.) ; beneath, fragments of statues from Nimroud ; cedar-beam from Nimroud. Table-case C. Barrel-cylinders with historical inscriptions; clay-tablets with business-memoranda, lists, etc. Pier-case D. Glazed earthenware, chiefly of the Parthian period (about B. C. 200); alabaster vases and figures, lamps, terracotta coffins. Table- cases £", /. Gems and seals with Pehlevi inscriptions. Table- case G. Necklaces, from Nimroud. labk-cases F. H. Important historical collection of inscribed slabs, bricks, cylinders, etc. In Case F. also small antiquities in various materials; in Case H, glass-ware from Nimroud. — Wall- cases 43-48 . In cribed bricks; 49-52. Glazed and painted bricks; 53. Bowls; 54-73. Terracotta vessels of the Parthian period; 74-84. Bronzes, etc. We have now reached the American Room of the Ethnogra- phical Department (see p. 264). It is adjoined by a Staircase de- scending to the King's Library (p. 245). The Second North Gal- liBEY, consists of a series of smaller rooms parallel with those just described. The first three (from this end) are occupied by col- lections illustrating Eeligions of the East and Early Christianity ; the three following and the antechamber contain the Phoenician Antiquities. Religious Collections. Room I. Early Christianity. Wall-Cases 1-18. Latin Christianity. Bronze lamps; silver spoons, chalices, and patens; in 17* 260 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. cases 7, 8. "Silver Treasure found at Rome in 1793, including large silver bridal-casket^ ivory carvings; terracotta lamps. — Cases 14, 15. Greek Church. Small enamelled irons; iron crown. Cases 16-20. Abyssinian Church, Silk altar-cloth; gilt and brass crosses; silver patens , chalices, lamps. — Cases 21-26. Coptic Church. *Cedar door-panels; wood-carvings; grave- stone from Upper Egypt; limestone fragments with writings in Greek and Coptic. In the lower part of Case 26 are so-called Gnostic articles, of uncertain date. — The Table Cases contain smaller objects, of great interest and beauty. Room II. Eastern Religions. Wall-Cases 1-24. Brahmanism or Hindoo Mythology. — Cases 23, 24. Nepal. — Cases 25-29. Java. — Case 27. Ceylon. — Case 30. Bali (Asiatic Archipelago). — On the lower shelves of Cases 30-46 and the upper shelves of Cases 30, 31. Jainism. — Cases 32-34. Judaism. — Cases 36-37. Islamism. — Cases 38-40. Shintoism. In the glass- case in the centre of the room, opposite, is the model of a Shinto temple. — Cases 42, 43. Taoism. — Cases 44, 45. Confucianism. — Cases 47, 48. Shamanism. — At theE. end of the room is an upright glass-case contain- ing a model of a sacred car for Vishnu ('?), from the Carnatie; two table- cases in the centre contain Indian grants of land inscribed on copper- plates ; and in an upright case at the W. end is a copy of the Ade Grant'h, or sacred book of the riikhs, with the parapharnalia of the priest who reads it. Room III Buddhism. Wall-Cases 1-18. Japan. — Cases 19-22. Thibet. — Cases 23-27. China. — Cases 23-45. Burma and Slam. — Cases 46-58. India and Ceylon. — Cases 59-76. Ancient India. — At the E. end of the room, under glass, is a machine used in .Tapan to exorcise the IDS demons that tempt the human heart to sin; in the centre of the room are a Bur- mese and two Chinese bells, and table-cases with Indian antiquities. Phoenician Antiquities. This collection embraces inscriptions, carvings, gravestones, and other monuments from Phoenicia, Pa- lestine, Carthage, and Cyprus, arranged chronologically under these headings. In Case 29, in the first room, is a cast of the Moabite Stone^ which was discovered by the Rev. F. Klein in the land of Moah in 1868. The inscription gives an account of the wars of Mesha, king of Moah, with Omri, Ahab, and Ahaziah, kings of Israel. Soon after Mr. Klein had obtained an impression of the stone, the latter was broken in pieces by the Arabs ; most of the frag- ments have, however, been recovered and are now in the Louvre. The ante-room at the W. end of the Second North Gallery is at the head of the staircase descending to the Egyptian galleries (p. 256). We here enter the rooms to the left, which contain the '"Collection of Vases and other small objects of Hellenic art. First Vase Room. The arrangement of the painted terracotta vases in the cases of this room afifords an instructive survey of the develop- ment of the art of vase-painting. To the left : Cases 1-4. Archaic pottery from Greek islands (pre-Mycense period). Cases 5-13. MycenBe period (from Rhodes etc.). Cases 14-19. Vases from Rhodes and Athens with geometric patterns: Cases 20-23. Transition period. Cases 24-26. Vases from Cyprus in the later geometric style. Ca^es 27-29. Moulded ware, from Italy, Crete, and Rhode'. Cases 30-32. Black ware (Bucchero nero) from Egypt, Crete, and Italy. To the right of the entrance: Cases 33-36. Vases with animal- frie/es and geometric patterns. Cases 37-45. Polychrome ware, in the Fi- kellura style, etc. Cases 46-51. Vases ornamented in the style of Oriental embroidery, from Rhodes and Italy. Ca,=es 52-58. Pottery from Corfu. Cases 59-64. Specimens of earliest Italian ware. — The two huge vases in the centre of the room are also from Rhodes. The two smaller vases to the right, with dark figures on a white ground, are interesting examples of the first attempts to combine figure-painting with the older geometrical ronamentation. Table-case A contains archaic jewellery and weapons from 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 261 Rliodes; archaic stone figures etc. Above, Phoenician and Oriental pottery. Table-case B, small terracotta figures ; above archaic Aryballi (perfume or oil-holders), chiefly from Rhodes. Table-case C. Archaic antiquities in pottery and bronze, from Rhodes ; Gr»co-Egyptian woi-k in porcelain, glass, and ivory. Above, model of a primitive Italian hut. Table-case D. Archnic Rhodian pottery ; large painted coffin in terracotta. Second Vase Room. The vases in this room, also of the archaic period, are almost entirely of Greek design and fabric, and are in most cases adorned with black figures on a red ground. Cases 7-15 contain the oldest vases and also terracotta figures. Cases 2'?, 23, 28 contain vases with black figures on a white ground. The finest vases are in the middle of the room. The — Third Vase Room contains the red-figure vases of the best period, adorned with human and animal forms. To the right are several large vases adorned with groups of great beauty. Fourth Vase Room. Cases 1-13 contain vases dating from the close of the best period. In the other cases are vases of the period of the decline of the art (end of 4th and beginning of the 3rd cent. B.C.). In the centre of the room are several large Craters and a series of ten Panhellenic am- phorte. In table-case B are Rhyta (drinking-vessels) ending in animals' heads. Table-case E. Fragments of moulded reliefs, etc. — The — "Bronze Room contains Greek and Roman bronzes. Cabinet 1-9. Cande- labra, lamps, tripods, etc. Cabinet 10, 11. Strigils and bathing implements. Cabinet 12-19. Armour; tools. Cabinets 20-30. Vessels of various kinds; weapons; mirrors. Cabinets 81-43. Rich collection of bronze statuettes (chiefly Roman or Grseco-R-oman), arranged according to the different groups of gods and heroes : 31, 32. Venus and Cupid; 33-35. Jupiter, Pluto, Hecate, Neptune, Minerva, Mars, Vulcan, Apollo, and Diana; 36-39. Bacchus, Sile- nus, etc. ; 40, 41. Hercules and Mercury ; 42, 43. Heroes (Atys, Harpocrates). Cabinets 44-47 contain a selection of larger bronzes : *Venus putting on her sandals, from Patras; *Youthful Bacchus; Apollo with the chlamys ; Jupiter in a sitting posture, with sceptre and thunderbolt (from Hungary); busts of Lucius Verus and Claudius; Meleager. Cabinets 48, 49. Statuettes of Fortune, Victory, the Seasons, etc. ; 50-53. Figures of Lares and actors , allegorical lamps, and other objects; 54, 55. Roman chair of state (bi- sellium) inlaid with silver, figure-head of an ancient galley, tripods, etc.; '56-60. Candelabra and lamps. — On a circular table in the centre of the room is a 'Head of a goddess, of heroic size, from Armenia. — Case B contains several fine works: 'Boy playing at morra, fromFoggia; Silenus carrying a cask; Hercule-, from Bavay in France; *Philosopher(?), found at Brindisi (identical with a statue in the Villa Borghese); *Statuette of Pomona; *Winged head (perhaps of Hypnos, the god of sleep), Perugia; head of a man, from Cyrene ; bronze disk; Mercury with wallet and ca- duceus , found at Huis in France. — To the right of the entrance is a small case with *Bronzes from Paramythia in Epirus (4th cent. B.C.) : Dione (?) ; one of the Dioscuri; Venus; Jupiter with his left hand out- stretched; Jupiter with his right hand outstretched; Apollo bending his bow. To the left of the entrance is a small case with select Greek bronzes, including a mirror, with an alto-relief of Venus and Adonis at the foot (Locri). — Table-case A contains the bronzes of Siris, two shoulder-pieces of Greek armour, from Magna Grsecia; mirror-cases, richly ornamented. — The following are exhibited singly in small cases : Hercules with the apples of the Hesperides, from Phoenicia; *Marsyas ; leg of a colossal figure, apparently a warrior, from Magna Greecia. Also, Apollo, a life-sized figure. — The other table-cases contain weapons, knives, figures of animals, bra- celets, brooches, fibulee, armlets, pins, locks, keys, and other small bronze articles. We next reach the — Etruscan Saloon, which contains archaic bronzes, works in terracotta, pottery, burial iirns, cists, and reliefs. Most of the Etruscan sarcophagi and other heavy objects are now placed in the basement, see p. 249. Many of the finest bronzes are in the large detached Case B, including a ' 'Lebes'', 262 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. with an engraved frieze representing Hercules driving av(fay tlie oxen of Cacus; at the back are chariot races and mock combats ; on the lid, Her- cules carrying oflf Auge (or Pluto and Proserpine ?) ; round the rim are four mounted Amazons (from Capua). Female figure in long drapery, from Sessa; *Amphora, the handles composed of men bending backwards, with sirens at their feet, from Vulci ; Hercules taming the horses of Diomede, from Palestrina; Ceres sitting in a waggon, from Amelia, in Etruria; Peleus struggling with Atalanta. also from the lid of a cist. Noteworthy- bronzes in other cases are a strigil, with a handle formed of a figure of Aphrodite; Etruscan helmetwith inscription, belonging toHieroI., King of Syracuse, from Olympia (B. C. 474); *Cist with engraved frieze, represent- ing the sacrifice oi captive Trojans at the funeral pile of Patroclus, and a Satyr and Mfenad on the lid, from Palestrina. To the left of the entrance is a large terracotta sarcophagus, with life-size male and female figures, mo- delled in the round ; the contents of the inscriptions have recently raised suspicion that this is a modern imposture. In a large case on the other side: Sarcophagus cover, with the half-recumbent figure of a woman hold- ing a mirror. The same case contains several cists, urns, and other figures. To the right, Cists with funeral and feasting scenes, in low relief. — To the left is a case with arms and armour. — Some of the wall-cases to the left contain bronzes. Table-case F contains ornamented bronze vase-han- dles. Case G. Hand mirrors and mirror-cases. Case K. Roman silver vasea and dishes , found in France , including a fine *Silver Service fministerium) of the 3rd cent. A. D. Case M. Inscriptions upon lead, linen , etc. ; inscribed sling-bolts , plummets , nails, etc. — In wall-cases 126-135 are antiquities from the PoUedrara Tomb, near Vulci (ca. B.C. 610). — <in the W. side of the room is the entrance to the new Coin and Medal Department (not yet opened). Cases 32-55 , on either side of this door, contain a collection of gold and silver coins, frum 100 B.C. to the Roman Empire, arranged chronologically and geographically. — The S. section of the Etruscan saloon , containing Roman mosaics, terracotta re- liefs, etc., may be regarded as an annexe of the Terracotta Room (see below). Among the objects exhibited here are six mural paintings from the tombs of the Nasones, near Rome. In the S.E. corner, adjoining the entrance to the Medal Room, is a mummy from the Fayum, with a portrait on panel (comp. p. 154). Medal and Gold Ornament Rooms (closed, admission by ringing the bell). The collection of medals, gold ornaments, coins, cameos, and gems pre- served here is very complete and extremely valuable, being probably the finest in Europe. The famous '^'^ Portland Vase is also kept here (CaseR). It was exhibited to the public down to 1845, when it was broken to pieces by a madman named Lloyd. It was afterwards, however, skilfully recon- structed. The vase, which is about 1 ft. in height, is of dark blue glass, adorned with beautifully cut reliefs in opaque white glass, and was found in a tomb at Rome in the early part of the i7th century. It came for a time into the possession of Prince Barberini, whence it is also called the 'Barberini Va3e% and is now the property of the Duke of Portland. The subject of the reliefs is a matter of dispute; some authorities main- tain that they represent the metamorphosis of Themis into a snake, others Alcestis' delivery from Hades ; the Museum Guide describes them as the meeting of Peleus and Thetis, and Thetis consenting to be the wife of Peleus. The bottom, which has been detached, is adorned with a bust of Paris. — Case T contains a highly valuable Gold Cup ^ acquired in 1892, decorated with translucent enamels in relief. The next room contains tlie Terracotta Antiquities. [The num- bering of the cases begins at the end farthest from the Etruscan Room.) To the right are the Greek and Graeco-Phoenician Terra- cottas, to the left are the Graeoo-Roman Terracottas. Probably the most generally interesting are the exquisite little figures from Ta- nagra (Cases lG-22; to the right). 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 263 Table-case C contains terracotta bowls; on the top, a large AsJcos, or vase shaped like a wine-skin. Table-case L contains lamps. Table-case B. Grotesque figures and masks; terracotta moulds. Table-case A. Terra- cotta jointed dolls ; on the top, a sepulchral urn. The Central Saloon, at tlie top of the Great Staircase, contains the Prehistoric Antiquities. The numbiring of the cases begins in the inner (N.) part of the saloon, to the left. The wall-en ses and table-cases in this portion contain illustra- tions of the Stone and Bronze Ages in Great Britain and the Continent, the exhibits being arranged geographically. Cases 20-30 contain the Oreenwell CoUeclion of Antiquities from British Barrows. — The wall-cases in the outer (S) part of the room illustrate the Paleolithic Stone Age in Great Britain and the Continent (Cases 51 60), the stone age in Africa (61-62), late Celtic antiquities (65-74), the stone and bronze ages in Japan (77-78), and India (T9-b'2). In the table-cases are flint arrow-heads and bone imple- ments ; and articles from Swiss lake-dwellings. The rooms occupied by the Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Roman An- tiquities are entered from the S.E. corner of the Prehistoric Saloon. Anglo-Saxon Room. In the wall-cases are the antiquities found in England, consisting of cinerary urns, swords and knives (some inscribed), runic caskets of whale's bone, a runic cross, silver ornaments, bronze articles, etc. In Cases 23-26 is a collection of foreign Teutonic antiquities of similar date, the most noticeable of which are the contents of a Li- vonian grave. In the centre cases are ornaments, weapons, and three matrices of seals (the only Anglo-Saxon seals extant). Anglo-Roman Room. The series begins with four leaden coffins and numerous smaller objects found in graves, including the contents of the four large sarcophagi in the Roman Gallery on the ground-floor, and several cists of marble, lead, and glass. Tomb of tiles. Vessels of glass, pewter, and metal. Bronze figures, among which are three of Mars, several good statuettes found in the valley of the Thames, and a fine figure of an archer. Then silver votive ornaments. Sculptures, including a figure of Luna, the finest piece of Roman sculpture found in Britain. Building -materials, tiles, bricks, drain-pipes. The S. side of the room is devoted to pottery, and at the E. end is a mosaic pavement found on the removal of the old East India House in Leadenhall Street. In the middle of the room are a colossal bronze bust of Hadrian from the Thames valley, a fine figure of an emperor from Suffolk, and an interesting bronze helmet. The table- cases contain brooches, trinkets, moulds for coins, and implements of various kinds. The Mediaeval Room, parallel with the preceding and entered from the Prehistoric Saloon, contains the mediaeval objects, except- ing the glass and pottery. Mediaeval Room. Cases 1-6. Arms and armour ; 7-10. Oriental and Venetian metal-work; 11, 12. European metal-work; 13-18. Astrolabes and clocks, including a time-piece in the form of a ship, made for the emperor Ru- dolph II. (1576-1612); 17-20. Limoges enamels; above, ornaments worn by Druse women on their heads; 21, 22. Paintings from St. Stephen's Chapel at "Westminster (1356); 23-30. Ivory, bone, and wood carvings; a set of panels from a Coptic church near Cairo ; caskets of ivory, wood, and leather; 31, 32. Monumental brasses and stone slabs. Table-case A con- tains historical relics, including an ivory hat which belonged to Queen Elizabeth, the punch-bowl of Robert Burns, the Lochbuy brooch, and quadrants belonging to various English monarchs. In Table-case B are objects illustrating magic, talismans, locks and keys, spoons, knives, and a box of trenchers. Table-cases C, D : Matrices of English seals and signet rings. Table-case E: Enamels, including a plaque representing Henry of Blois, Bishop of Winchester and brother of King Stephen (1139-1146). table-case F : Carvings in ivory, rock-crystal, mother-of-pearl, and other materials. Table-case G : Watches, astrolabes, compasses. Table-case H : 264 22. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. Chamberlains' keys ; portraits on pressed horn and tortoiseshell ; collec- tion of papal rings. Table-case K: Watches. Table-ease L: Objects used in games jgcurious set of chessmen of the 13th cent., from the island of Lewis in the Hebrides, made of walrus tusk. The Asiatic Saloon (arrangement unfinished). Cases 11-15. Japanese bronzes ;j,16-18. Corean pottery, 27-45. Japanese pottery; 46-60. Japanese porcelain; 61. Siamese and Burmese pottery; 62-64. Chinese pottery; 65- 96. Chinese porcelain. — Cases 97-101. Chinese jade and metal figures ; 102- 106. Chinese wearing apparel; 107-113. Chinese figures and implements; 116. Ivory and ebony cabinet, ebony figures. — The detached cases contain .lapanese, Chinese, and Indian antiquities, porcelain, etc. Another case contains a terracotta bust of Mme. du Boccage (1766), a plaster cast of Flax- man's 'Shield of Achilles', models by Michelangelo (apparently designs for the Medici tombs in San Lorenzo, Florence), a terracotta model by Gio- vanni da Bologna, and some portrait-medallions in wax. From the Asiatic Saloon we turn to the right into tJie new rooms of the White Building (see p. 242), which contains the collections of Glass and Pottery and also the Department of Prints and Drawings. The latter contains an unrivalled collection of original drawings , engravings, and etchings. Hitherto the use of this collection has been practically restricted to students, who receive tickets on application to the Principal Librarian (see p. 265), but the spacious new rooms now built for it Include a fine Exhibi- tion Gallery (see below), the contents of which are changed every three years. Foreigners and travellers may obtain access to the Students' Rooms on giving in their names. Comp. the Handbook to the 'Department', by Louis Fagan (3s. 6d.). We first enter the — English Ceramic Ante-Hoom, containing pottery and porcelain chiefly bought from Mr. Willett or given by Mr. Franks. To the right on enter- ing : Wall-tiles from Malvern (1457-S). Cases 1-8 (left). Early English Pot- terv (ll-15th cent.); 9-20. Glazed Ware of the 16-18th cent.; 21-26. Eng- lish Pottery, chiefly from Staflfordshire; 27-32. Pavement Tiles (13-16th cent.); 33. Fulham Stoneware (17th cent.); 35-46. English Porcelain (that in the last four cases inferior); 47-50. Liverpool Tiles, transfer-printed, by • Sadler. The table-case contains a collection of so-called 'Chelsea Toys'. Glass and Ceramic Gallery, including the valuable Slade Collection of Glass. Cases 1, 2. English Delft, chiefiv made at Lambeth in the 17- 18th cent.; 3-7. Dutch and German Delft; 8-10. Italian Pottery; 11-23, Italian Majolica; 24-26. Spanish Pottery; 27-31. Rhodian and Damascus Ware; 32, 33. Persian Pottery; 34, 35. French Pottery; 37 45. Antique Glass, chiefly of the Roman period; 46-54. Venetian Glass; 55-58. German Glass ; 59. Chinese Glass; 60-61. Oriental Glass; 62. French Glass; 63. English Glass; 64-66. Wedgwood and other Stafl'ordshire Wares and Bristol Delft. The table-cases contain Wedgwood medallions; antique, German, Dutch, and Flemish glass; English engraved glass; Oriental pottery, etc. The Print and Drawing Exhibition Gallery is at present occupied by a splendid series of "^Drawings and Sketches by the Old Masters, mainly belonging to the celebrated collection of Mr. John M;>lcolm, deposited by his heirs under the care of the British Museum. It includes specimens of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Fra Angelico, Antonello da Messina, Carpaccio, Holbein, Durer, Claude Lorrain, Clouet, Rubens, Van Dyck, Cuyp, Rembrandt, Van Ostade, Berghem, etc. We now return to the Asiatic Saloon and begin our inspection of the extensive and interesting Ethnographical Collection, which is arranged topographically and occupies the whole of the East Gallkry. The Asiatic Section is first entered; then follow the 11. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 265 Oceanic, African, and American Sections, each containing a great variety of objects illustrating the habits, dress, warfare, handicrafts, etc. of the less civilised inhabitants of the different quarters of the globe. On the N. side of the spacious entrance hall, facing the entrance door, is a passage leading to the * Beading Room, construct- ed in 1855-57 at a cost of 150,000i; it is open from 9 a.m. to 7 or 8 p.m. (closed on the first four days of March and October, as well as on Good Friday and Christmas Day). This imposing circular hall , covered by a large dome of glass and iron (140 ft. in diameter, or 1 ft. larger than the dome of St. Peter's at Rome, and 106 ft. high) , has ample accommodation for 360 readers or writers. Around the superintendent, who occupies a raised seat in the centre of the room, are circular cases containing the General Catalogue for the use of the readers (in about 2000 vols.) and various special catalogues and indexes. On the top of these cases lie printed forms (white for books, green for MSS.) to be filled up with the name and 'press-mark' (i. e. reference, indicated in the catalogue by letters and numerals, to its position in the book- cases) of the work required, and the number of the seat chosen by the applicant at one of the tables, which radiate from the centre of the room like the spokes of a wheel. The form when filled up is put into a little basket, placed for this purpose on the counter. One of the attendants will then procure the book required, and send it to the reader's seat. About 20,000 vols, of the books in most frequent request, such as dictionaries, encyclopaedias, hi- stories, periodicals, etc., are kept in the reading-room itself, and may be used without any application to the library officials; while coloured plans, showing the positions of the various categories of these books, are distributed throughout the room. Every reader is provided with a chair, a folding desk, a small hinged shelf for books, pens, and ink, a blotting-pad, and a peg for his hat. The reader will probably find the arrangements of the British Museum Reading Room superior to those of most public libraries, while the obliging civility of the attendants , and the freedom from obtrusive supervision and restrictions are most grateful. The electric light has been introduced into the Reading Room and Galleries. — In the year 1858, the first after the opening of the New Reading Room, the number of readers amounted to 190,400, who consulted in all 877,897 books or an average of 3000 a day. In 1893 there were 194,102 readers, or 645 per day. A Description of the Reading Room may be had from the officials (Id.). Persons desirous of using the Reading Room must send a written application to the Principal Librarian, specifying their names, rank or profession , and address, and enclosing a recommendation from some well-known householder in London. The applicant must not be under 21 years of age. The permission, which is granted 266 23. ST. JAMES'S PALACE. usually for six months at a time, is not transferable and is subject to withdrawal. The Reading Room tickets entitle to the use of the nevf Ne^cspap€r Room (comp. p. 245). It is possible for strangers to get permission to use the Reading Room for a single day by per- sonal application at the office of the Principal Librarian, to the left of the First Graeco-Roman Room. Tickets for visitors to the Reading Room are obtained on the right side of the entrance hall. Visitors are not allowed to walk through the Reading Room, but may view it from the doorway. — The Libraries contain a collection of books and manuscripts, rivalled in extent by the National Library of Paris alone. The number of printed books is about 1,600,000, and it in- creases at the rate of about 30,000 volumes per annum. 23. St. James's Palace and Park. Buckingham Palace. The site of St. James's Palace (PI. R, 22 ; IV), an irregular brick building at the S. end of St. James's Street, was originally occupied by a hospital for lepers, founded previously to 1190. In 1532 the building came into the possession of Henry VIII., who erected in its place a royal palace, said to have been designed by Holbein. Here Queen Mary died in 1558. Charles I. slept here the night before his execution, and walked across St. James's Park to Whitehall next morning (1649). The palace was considerably extended by Charles I., and, after Whitehall was burned down in 1691, it became the chief residence of the English kings from William III. to George IV. In 1809 a serious fire completely destroyed the eastern wing, so that with the exception of the interesting old brick gateway towards St. James's Street, the Chapel Royal, and the old Presence Chamber, there are few remains of the ancient palace of the Tudors. The staterooms are sumptuously fitted up, and contain a number of portraits and other works of art. The initials HA above the chimney-piece in the Presence Chamber are a reminiscence of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn. It is difficult to obtain permission to inspect the interior. The guard is changed every day at 10.45 a.m., when the fine bands of the Grenadier, Coldstream, or Scots Guards play for 1/4 hr. in Friary Court, the open court facing Marl- borough House. Though St. James's Palace is no longer the residence of the sovereign, the British court is still officially known as the 'Court of St. James's'. On the N. side, entered from Colour Court, is the Chapel Royal, in which the Queen and some of the highest nobility have seats. Divine service is celebrated on Sundays at 10 a. m., 12 noon, and 5. 30 p. m. A limited number of strangers are admitted to the two latter services by tickets obtained from the Lord Chamberlain; for the service at 10 no ticket is required. — The marriage of Queen Victoria with Prince Albert, and those of some of their daughters, were celebrated in the Chapel Royal. 23. ST. JAMES'S PARK. 267 Down to the death of Prince Albert in 1861, the Queen's Levies and Drawing Rooms were always held in St. James's Palace. Since then, how- ever, the drawing-rooms have taken place at Buckingham Palace, but the leve'es are still held here. A levee differs from a drawing room in this respect, that, at the former, gentlemen only are presented to the sovereign, while at the latter it is almost entirely ladies wbo are intro- duced. Eichly dressed ladies; gentlemen, magnificent in gold-laced uni- forms; lackeys in gorgeous liveries, knee-breeches, silk stockings, and powdered hair, and bearing enormous bouquets ; well-fed coachmen with carefully curled wigs and three-cornered hats; splendid carriages and horses, "which dash along through the densely packed masses of specta- tors; and a mounted band of the Life Guards, playing in front of the palace: — such, so far as can be seen by the spectators who crowd the adjoining streets, windows, and balconies, are the chief ingredients in the au^rust ceremony of a 'Queen's Drawing Room'. A notice of the draw- ing-room, with the names of the ladies presented, appears next day in the newspapers. In the life of a young English lady of the higher ranks her present- ation at Court is an epoch of no little importance, for after attending her first drawing-room, she is considered 'out', and enters on the round of balls, concerts, and other gaieties, which often play so large a part in her life. On the "W. side of St. James's Palace lies Clarence House, tlie London residence, since 1874, of the Duke of Edinburgh, who succeeded his uncle as Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha in 1893. — Marlborough House, on the E. side of the palace, see p. 227. St. James's Park (PI. R, 21, 22, 25, 26; IV), which lies to the S. of St. James's Palace, was formerly a marshy meadow, belonging to St. James's Hospital for Lepers. Henry VIII. , on the conversion of the hospital into a palace , caused the marsh to be drained, surrounded with a wall, and transformed into a deer-park and riding-path. Charles II. extended the park by 36 acres , and had it laid out in pleasure-grounds by Le Notre, the celebrated French landscape gardener. Its walks, etc., were all constructed primly and neatly in straight lines, and the strip of water received the appropriate name of 'the canal'. The present form of St. James's Park was imparted to it in 1827-29, during the reign of George IV.', by Nash, the architect [p. 268). Its beautiful clumps of trees, its winding expanse of water enlivened by water- fowl, and the charming views it affords of the stately buildings around it, combine to make it the most attractive of the London parks. In 1857 the bottom of the lake was levelled so as to give it a uniform depth of 3-4 ft. The suspension bridge, across the centre of it, forms the most direct communication for pedestrians between St. James's Street and Westminster Abbey. The broad avenue, planted with rows of handsome trees, on the N. side of the park, is called the Mall, from the game of 'paille maille' once played here (comp. p. 2251. At the E. extremity, near Carlton House Terrace , is the flight of steps mentioned at p. 226, leading to the York Column (p. 227). — Birdcage Walk, on the S. side of the park , is so named from the aviary maintained here as early as the time of the Stuarts. 268 23. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. At the E. end of Birdcage Walk is Storey s Oate, leading to Great George Street and Westminster. In Petty France^ now York Street, to the S, of Birdcage Walk, ■ Milton once had a house. — A battalion of the Royal Foot Guards is quartered in Wellington Barracks, built in 1834, on the S. side of Birdcage Walk; the interior of tbe small chapel is very tasteful (open Tues., Thurs., & Frid., 11-4). The Government Offices [p. 190), the India and Foreign Offices, and beyond them the Horse Guards and Admiralty, lie on the E. side of St. James's Park. In an open space called the Parade, between the park and the Admiralty (new buildings, see p. 190), are placed a Turkish cannon captured by the English at Alexandria, and a large mortar, used by Marshal Soult at the siege of Cadiz in 1812, and abandoned there by the French. The carriage of the mortar is in the form of a dragon, and was made at Woolwich. Buckingham Palace (PL R, 21 ; IV), the Queen's residence, rises at the W. end of St. James's Park. The present palace occupies the site of Buckingham House, erected by John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham , in 1703 , whicb was purchased by George III. in 1761, and occasionally occupied by him. His successor, George IV., caused it to be remodelled by Nash in 1825, but it remained empty until its occupation in 1837 by Queen Victoria , whose town resi- dence it has since continued to be. The eastern and principal facade towards St. James's Park, 360 ft. in length, was added by Blore in 1846 ; and the large ball-room and other apartments were subsequently constructed. The palace now forms a large quadrangle. The rooms occupied by Her Majesty are on the N. side. A portico, borne by marble columns, leads out of the large court into the rooms of state. We first enter the Sculpture Gallery, which is adorned with busts and statues of members of the royal family, and eminent statesmen. Beyond it , with a kind of semicircular apse towards the garden, is the Library, where deputations, to whom the Queen grants an audience, wait until they are admitted to the royal presence. The ceiling of the magnificent Marble Staircase, to the left of the vestibule, is embellished with frescoes by Townsend, representing Morning, Noon, Evening, and Night. On the first floor are the following rooms : Green Drawing Room, 50ft. long and 33 ft. high, in the middle of the E. side; * Throne Room, 66 ft. in length, sumptuously fitted up with red striped satin and gilding, and having a marble frieze running round the vaulted and richly decorated ceiling , with reliefs representing the Wars of the Roses, executed by Baily from designs by Stothard ; Grand Saloon; State Ball Room, on the S. side of the palace, 110ft. long and 60ft. broad; lastly the Picture Gallery, 180ft. in length, con- taining a choice, though not very extensive collection of paintings. Picture Gallery. The enumeration begins to the right. Carracci, Christ in the Garden ; *182. Frans Hals , Portrait of a man, dated 1636, 180. Dujardin, Three peasants by a wall; 172. 0. Schalcken, Girl with a «andle; ♦174. Rembrandt, Portrait of himself; 170. Teniers, Scholars at 23. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 269 table; 171. Dujardin, Shepherd boy and cattle; 176. Teniers, Peasants dancing (dated 1645); *168. A. Cuyp , Evening scene, with figures; 165. N. Berchem, Shepherdess wading through a river (1650) ; *164. Rembrandt^ Lady with a fan (dated 1641), the counterpart of a picture in Brussels; *163. Rubens, The Falconer; *159. Isaac van Ostade , Scene in a village street; 157. Jan Steen, Card-players. — '*154. Rembrandt, Adoration of the Magi (dated 1657), a celebrated work. 'The impasto of the light on this picture is remarkably bold , being of a beautiful golden tone, rich and mellow". — Vosjuaer. *155. Van Dyck, Madonna and Child with St. Catharine; *i52. A. van Ostade, Boors talking (1650); *149. Rubens, Landscape; 15(). Rubens, St. George and the Dragon; 147. A. van Ostade, Boors smoking (1665); *148. Metsuj Lady with a champagne glass ; 145. Van Dyck, Charles I. on horse- back; Hi. F. Mieris, "Woman selling grapes (dated ; erroneously attributed to G. Dou); 135. A. Cuyp , Cavalier; 140. Cuyp, Harbour; 136. Pieter de Hooghe, Woman spinning; *134. Claude Lovrain , Europa; 132. Metsu^ Concert; 133. A. van de Velde , Scene on the beach (dated 1666); *129. Hobbema , Mill (dated 1665); 131. Rembrandt, Portrait of an old man. *126. Rubens. Pythagoras (the fruit by Snyders); 118. Wouwerman, Horse- fair; 110. Cuyp, Lady and gentleman riding in a wood; 116. Rubens, Pan and Syrinx; *113. Paul Potter, Cattle (dated 1640); 109. Tenters, Eocky landscape ; 107. Jan Steen , Violinist and card players ; 104. W. van de Velde, Calm (1659); *103. /. Steen, Woman pulling on her stockings (1663); 106. Cuyp, Grey horse; 100. /. van Ostade, Village street (dated 1643). We now pass into the Dining Room, which contains a series of por- traits of English sovereigns, several being by Gainsborough. In an ad- joining room is Sir Frederick Leighton''s Procession in Florence with the Madonna of Cimabue. We then return to the — Picture Gallert, and examine the works on the opposite wall. 98. A. van der Werff, Lady in a swoon; 91. Backhuisen, Rough sea; 92. Tenters, Camp scene (dated -1647) : 88. Berchem, Shepherds at a ford; 89. Cuyp, Stag-hunt; 98. yemers, Peasants dancing ; *86. A. Cuyp, Ducks on a lake; 83. Jan Steen, Interior; *84. A. van de Velde, Cattle pasturing; 82. Cuyp., Cattle and shepherds by a canal ; 72. Ascribed to Rubens, The Pensionary John of Oldenbarneveld visited by his son after his condemnation; *67. A. van de Velde, Landscape with shepherds (1659); *68. Paul Potter, Ca- valier in front of a hut (1651); *64. /. Steen, Family scene; %2. Hobbema, Landscape; *59. J. van Ruysdael, Evening scene with windmill, a master- piece; 57. Wouwerman, Hay harvest; 54. A. van Ostade, Reading the papers (1650) ; 56. J. Steen, Brawl of peasants beside a canal (1672) ; *52. A. van de Velde, Hunting in a forest; 50. Van Dyck (?), Three cavaliers, a sketch for the finished picture in the Berlin Museum; 51. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child; 48. A. van Ostade, Peasants sitting round the fire; *45. N. Maes. Girl in a listening attitude stealing down a winding stair- case (of a radiant golden tone). — *'41. Rembrandt, 'Noli me tangere* (morning light; dated 1638). Rembrandt's friend, Jeremias de Decker, dedicated a sonnet to the praise of this picture. **40. Terburg , Lady writing a letter , with an attendant, the chef- d''oeuvre of this great master of scenes of refined domestic life ; *34 Rubens, Assumption of the Virgin, sketch for the picture at Brussels; 29. A. van Ostade, Family scene (1668); 28. W. van de Velde, On the beach ; '30. Rembrandt , Burgomaster Pancras and his wife , painted in 1645; 26. F. Mieris, Boy blowing soap-bubbles (1663); 22. P. de Hooghe, Card-players (1658), one of the artist's masterpieces; 23. Cuyp, Evening scene; 18. Dou, Mother nursing her child, very minute in the details; 14. P. Potter, Farm scene (dated 1645). — *10. Rembrandt, A ship-builder, occupied in making a drawing of a ship, is interrupted by his wife, who has just come into the room with a letter (dated 1633). 'The momentary nature of the simple action, the truth of the heads, the wonderful clearness of the full bright sunlight, and the conscientious execution, render the picture extremely attractive'. — Waagen. It was purchased by George IV., when Prince of Wales, for 5000i. 270 24. HYDE PARK. 7. Te^t/erfi, Peasants dancing; 2. A. van Ostade, Backgammon players (1670); '^'Titian, A summer storm amid the Venetian Alps, an effective rendering of unusual natural phenomena (painted about 1534). Permission to visit the Picture Gallery may sometimes be ob- tained (during the Queen's absence only) from the Lord Chamber- lain on written application. The Gardens at the back of the Palace contain a summer-house decorated with eight frescoes from Milton's 'Comus', by Landseer, Stanfleld, Maclise, Eastlake, Dyce, Leslie, Uwins, and Ross. The Royal Mews (so called from the 'mews' or coops in which the royal falcons were once kept), or stables and coach-houses (for 40 equipages), entered from Queen's Row, to the S. of the palace, are shown on application to the Master of the Horse. The magni- ficent state carriage, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 1762, and painted by Cipriani (cost 7660i.), is kept here. To theN., between Buckingham Palace and Piccadilly, lies the Green Pabk, which is 60 acres in extent. Between this and the Queen's private gardens is Constitution Hill, leading direct to Hyde Park Corner (p. 271). Three attempts on the life of the Queen have been made in this road. 24. Hyde Park. Kensington Gardens and Palace. Holland House. Park Lane, a street about 1/2 M. in length, connecting the W. end of Piccadilly with Oxford Street, forms the eastern boundary of Hyde Park (PI. R, 14, etc.), which extends thence towards theW. as far as Kensington Gardens, and covers an area of 390 acres. Before the dissolution of the religious houses , the site of the park belonged to the old manor of Hyde, one of the possessions of West- minster Abbey. The ground was laid out as a park and enclosed under Henry VIII. In the reign of Elizabeth stags and deer were still hunted in it, while under Charles II. it was devoted to horse- races. The latter monarch also laid out the 'Ring', a kind of corso, about 350 yds. in length , round an enclosed space , which soon became a most fashionable drive. The fair frequenters of the Ring often appeared in masks , and , under this disguise , used so much freedom, that in 1695 an order was issued denying admission to all whose features were thus concealed. At a later period the park was neglected, and was frequently the scene of duels, one of the most famous being that between Lord Mohun and the Duke of Hamilton in 1712, when both the princi- pals lost their lives. Under William III. and Queen Anne a large portion of the park was taken to enlarge Kensington Gardens; and, finally. Queen Caroline, wife of George II., caused the Ser- pentine, a sheet of artificial water , to be formed. The Serpentine was originally fed by the Westbourne , a small stream coming from Bayswater, to the N.; but it is now supplied from the Thames. 24. HYDE PARK. 271 Hyde Park is one of tlie most frequented and lively scenes in London. It is surrounded by a handsome and lofty iron railing, and provided with nine carriage-entrances, besides a great number of gates for pedestrians, all of which are shut at midnight. On theS. side are Kensington Gate and Queens Gate, both in Kensington Gore, near Kensington Palace ; Prince's Gate and Albert Gate in Knightsbridge ; and Hyde Park Corner at the W. end of Piccadilly. On the E. side are Stanhope Gate and Grosvenor Gate, both in Park Lane. On the N. side are Cumberland Gate, at the W. end of Ox- ford Street, and Victoria Gate, Bayswater. The entrances most used are Hyde Park Corner at the S.E., and Cumberland Gate at the N.E. angle. At the latter rises the Marble Arch, a triumphal arch in the style of the Arch of Constantine , originally erected by George IV. at the entrance of Buckingham Palace at a cost of 80,000L In 1850, on the completion of the E. facade (p. 268), it was removed from the palace , and in the following year was re- erected in its present position. The reliefs on the S. are by Baily, those on the N. by Westmacott] the elegant bronze gates well deserve inspection. The handsome gateway at Hyde Park Corner, with three passages , was built in 1828 from designs by Burton. The reliefs are copies of the Elgin marbles [p. 250). The Green Park Arch, opposite, at the W. end of the Green Park (p. 270j, erected in 1846, was removed in 1883, in the course of improve- ments made at Hyde Park Corner, and has been rebuilt on Consti- tution Hill. The Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Wyatt, with which it was disfigured, has been re-ereeted at Aldershot Camp, while another equestrian statue of the Duke, in bronze, by Boehm, has been erected in Wellington Place, opposite Apsley House. At the corners of the red granite pedestal are figures of a grenadier, a Highlander, a Welsh fusilier, and an Inniskillen dragoon, all also by Boehm. Apsley House (p. 277), the residence of the Duke of Wellington, lies directly to the E. of Hyde Park Corner. The house next it is that of Baron Rothschild, and that at the W. corner of Park Lane is occupied by the Duke of Cambridge. To the N. of Hyde Park Corner rises another monument to the 'Iron Duke', consisting of the colossal figure known as the Statue of Achilles, which, as the inscription informs us, was erected in 1822, with money subscribed by English ladies , in honour of 'Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms'. The statue, by Westmacott, is cast from the metal of 12 French can- non , captured in France and Spain , and at Waterloo , and is a copy of one of the Dioscuri on the Monte Cavallo at Rome. No carts or waggons are allowed to enter Hyde Park, and cabs are admitted only to one roadway across the park near Kensington Gardens. The finest portion of the park, irrespectively of the magnificent groups of trees and expanses of grass for which Eng- lish parks stand pre-eminent , is that near the Serpentine , where, 272 24. HYDE PARK. in spring and summer, during the 'Season', the fashionable world rides, drives, or walks. The favourite hour for carriages is 5-7 p.m., and the fashionahle drive is the broad, southern avenue, which leads from Hyde Park Corner to the left , past the Albert Gate. Equestrians, on the other hand, appear, chiefly from 12 to 2 p.m., but also later in the afternoon, \n Rotten Row , a track exclusively reserved for riders , running parallel to the drive on the N. , and extending along the S. side of the Serpentine from Hyde Park Corner to Kensington Gate, a distance of about 1^2 M. The scene in this part of Hyde Park, on fine afternoons, is most interesting and imposing. In the Drive are seen unbroken files of elegant equipages and high-bred horses in handsome trappings, moving continually to and fro, presided over by sleek coachmen and powdered lacqueys , and occupied by some of the most beauti- ful and exquisitely dressed women in the world. In the Row are numerous lady and gentlemen riders, who parade their spirited and glossy steeds before the admiring crowd sitting or walking at the sides. It has lately become 'the thing' to walk by the Row on Sundays, and on a fine day the 'Church Parade', between morn- ing service and luncheon [i.e. about 1-2 p.m.), is one of the best displays of dress and fashion in London. — The drive on the N. side of the Serpentine is called the Ladies' Mile. The Coaching and Four-in-hand Clubs meet here during the season, as many as thirty or forty drags sometimes assembling. The flower-beds adjoining Park Lane and to the W. of Hyde Park Corner are exceedingly bril- liant, and the show of rhododendrons in June is deservedly famous. At the S. end of Park Lane is a handsome Fountain by Thorneycroft, adorned with figures of Tragedy, Comedy, Poetry, Shakspeare, Chau- cer, and Milton, and surmounted by a statue of Fame. In Hamil- ton Gardens, a little farther to the S. , near Hyde Park Corner (p. 271), is a statue of Lord Byron (d. 1824), erected in 1879. The district between Park Lane and Bond Street (p. 234) is known as Mayfaie, and is one of the most fashionable in London. A refreshing contrast to this fashionable show is afforded by a scene of a very unsophisticated character, which takes place in sum- mer on the Serpentine before 8 a.m. and after 8 p.m. At these times, when a flag is hoisted , a crowd of men and boys , most of them in very homely attire, are to be seen undressing and plunging into the water, where their lusty shouts and hearty laughter testify to their enjoyment. After the lapse of about an hour the flag is lowered, as an indication that the bathing time is over, and in quarter of an hour every trace of the lively scene has disappeared. — Pleasure-boats may be hired on the Serpentine. In winter the Serpentine, when frozen over, is much fre- quented by skaters. To provide against accidents, the Royal Humane Society, mentioned at p. 150, has a 'receiving-house' here, where attendants and life-saving apparatus are kept in readiness for any 24. KENSINGTON PALACE. 273 emergency. The bottom of the Serpentine was cleaned and level- led in 1870; the average depth in the centre is now 7 ft., and towards the edges 3 ft. At the point where the Serpentine enters Kensington Gardens it is crossed by a five-arched bridge, constructed by Sir John Rennie in 1826. On the W. side of the park is a powder magazine. Reviews, both of regular troops and volunteers, sometimes take place in Hyde Park. The Park is also a favourite rendezvous of organised crowds, holding 'demonstrations' in favour or disfavour of some political idea or measure. The Reform Riot of 1866, when quarter of a mile of the park-railings was torn up and 250 policemen were seriously injured, is perhaps the most historic of such gatherings. The wide grassy expanse adjoining the Marble Arch is also the fav- ourite haunt of Sunday lecturers of all kinds. To the W. of Hyde Park, and separated from it by a sunk- fence, lie Kensington Gardens (PI. R, 10, etc.), with their pleasant walks and expanses of turf (carriages not admitted). Many of the majestic old trees have, unfortunately, had to be cut down. Near the Serpentine are the new flower gardens i at the N. extremity is a sitting figure of Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), by Marshall. The Broad Walk on the W. side , 50 ft. in width , leads from Bayswater to Kensington Gore. The Albert Memorial (p. 280) rises on the S. side. The handsome wrought-iron gates opposite the Memorial were those of the S. Transept of the Exhibition Buildings of 1851, which stood a little to the E., on the ground between Prince's Gate and the Serpentine, and was afterwards removed and re-erected as the Crystal Palace at Sydenham (see p. 313). Kensington Palace (PI. R, 6), an old royal residence, built in part by William III. , was the scene of the death of that monarch and his consort, Mary, of Queen Anne and her husband. Prince George of Denmark, and of George II. Here, too. Queen Victoria was born and brought up, and here she received the news of the death of William IV. and her own accession. The interior contains nothing noteworthy. Kensington Palace was till lately the London re- sidence of the Princess Louise and her husband the Marquis of Lome , and is now occupied by the Prince and Princess of Teck (the latter first cousin to the Queen), and by various annuitants and widows belonging to the aristocracy. The palace has a chapel of its own, in which regular Sunday services are held. The space to the W. of Kensington Palace is now occupied by rows of fashionable residences. Thackeray died in 1863 at No. 2 Palace Green^ the second house to the left in Kensington Palace Gardens (PI. R, 6) as we enter from Kensington High Street. Among his previous London re- sidences were 88 St. James's Street, 13 (now 16) Young Street, Kensington (where 'Vanity Fair\ 'Pendennis', and 'Esmond' were written), and 8(i Onslow Square (re-numbered). Holly Lodge, the home of Lord lUacaulay, where he died in 1859, is in a lane leading off Campden Hill Road, a little farther to the W. The next house is Argyll Lodge, the London re- sidence of the Duke of Argyll. Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 18 274 *24. HOLLAND HOUSE. Farther to the W., on a hill lying between Uxbridge Road, on theN., and Kensington Road on the S., stands Holland House (PI. R, 1), built in the Tudor style "by John Thorpe, for Sir Walter Cope, in 1607. The building soon passed into the hands of Henry Rich, Earl of Holland (in Lincolnshire) , son-in-law of Sir Walter Cope, and afterwards, on the execution of Lord Holland for treason, came into the possession of Fairfax and Lambert, the Parliamentary generals. In 1665, however, it was restored to Lady Holland. From 1716 to 1719 it was occupied by Addison, who had married the widow of Edward , third Earl of Holland and Warwick. The lady was a relative of Sir Hugh Myddelton (see p. 101). In 1762 it was sold by Lord Kensington, cousin of the last representative of the Hollands, who had inherited the estates, to Henry Fox, afterwards Baron Holland, and father of the celebrated Charles James Fox. Holland House now belongs to Lord Ilchester, a de- scendant of a brother of Henry Fox. Since the time of Charles I. , Holland House has frequently been associated with eminent personages. Fairfax, Cromwell, and Ireton held their deliberations in its chambers; William Penn,who was in great favour with Charles II. , was daily assailed here by a host of petitioners; and William III. and his consort Mary lived in the house for a short period. During the first half of the 19th cent. Holland House was the rallying point of Whig political and literary notabilities of all kinds, such as Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay, who enjoyed here the hospitality of the distinguished third Baron Holland. The house contains a good collection of paintings and historical relics. Compare Princess Lichtenstein's 'Holland House'. Along the N. side of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens runs Ux- bridge Road, leading to Bayswater and Notting Hill. Near the Marble Arch (PI. E, 15) is the Cemetery of St. George's, Hanover Square (open 10-4. on Sun. and holidays 2-4), containing the grave of Laurence Sterne (d. 1768; near the middle of the wall on the W. side). Mrs. Radclifi'e, writer of the 'Mysteries of Udolpho', is said to be buried below the cha- pel. The rows of houses on this road, overlooking the park, contain some of the largest and most fashionable residences in London. 25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and St. James's. Orosvenor House, Stafford House. Bridgewater House. Lans- downe House. Apsley House. Dorchester House. Hertford House. Lady Brassey Museum. Devonshire House. The English aristocracy, many of the members of which are enormously wealthy, resides in the country during the greater part of the year ; but it is usual for the principal families to have a mansion in London, which they occupy during the season, or at other times when required. Most of these mansions are in the vicinity of Hyde Park, and many of them are worth visiting, not 25. GROSVENOR HOUSE. 275 only on account of the sumptuous manner in which they are fitted up, but also for the sake of the treasures of art which they contain. Permission to visit these private residences, for which appli- cation must he made to the owners, is often difficult to procure, and can in some cases he had only by special introduction. During winter it is customary to pack away the works of art in order to protect them against the prejudicial influence of the atmosphere. Grosvenor House (PI. R, 18; /), Upper Grosvenor Street, is the property of the Duke of Westminster^ and is not open to the public. The pictures are arranged in the private rooms on the ground-floor. Room i. (Dining Room). To the left: 2. West, Death of General Wolfe at Quebec in 1759 i 5. Albert Gupp, Moonlight scene; 8. Sustermans, Por- trait of a lady; 12. Claude Lorrain, Roman landscape; *17, *11. Rem- brandt, Portraits of Nicolas Burghem and Ms wife (dated 1647); 15. Rubens, Landscape; 18, 19. Claude, Landscapes; 21. Adrian van de Velde , Hut with cattle and figures (1658); 23. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man with a hawk; 24. Wouwerman, Horse fair; 25. Hogarth, The distressed poet; 28. Claude, Landscape; 30. Cuyp, Sheep (an early work) ; *26. Claude, Sermon on the Mount; *31. Rembrandt, Portrait of a lady with a fan ; ""31. Berchem, Large landscape with peasants dancing (1656); 88. Sustermans , Portrait. Roosi ir. (Saloon). To the left: *'40. Rembrandt, The Salutation. 'A delicate and elevated expression is here united with beautiful effects of light. This little gem is distinguished for its marvellous blending of warm and cold tints'. — Vosmaer. Above, Cuyp, River scene; *41. G. Dou , Mother nursing her child; **42. Paul Potter. Landscape near Haarlem (1647); 45. N. Pouism, Children playing; **46. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingelbach; Andrea del Sarto, Portrait; '53. Murillo, John the Baptist; 59. Canaletto, Canal Grande in Venice; 66. Pannigiano , Study for the altarpiece in the National Gallery (No. 33; p. 163); 67. N. Poussin, Holy Family and angels; 69. Oiulio Romano, St. Luke painting the Virgin; *72. Murillo. Infant Christ asleep; **70. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingel- bach (a counterpart of the picture opposite) ; 75. Oarofolo (?), Holy Family. Room hi. (Small Drawing Room). To the left: 92. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child with St. Catharine ; *91. Reynolds, Portrait of Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse (1784); 89. Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; 83. Tenters, Chateau of the painter with a portrait of himself; *77. Gainsborough, The 'Blue Boy\ a full-length portrait of Master Buthall. Room iv. (Large Drawing Room). To the left: *95. Rembrandt (or A. Brouwer'i), Landscape with figures; 112. Paul de A'owik(7, Landscape; 110. Giovanni Bellini (or, more probably, an early imitator of Lorenzo Lotto), Ma- donna and saints; IQl. School o/5eZW?M', Circumcision of Christ; 106. Titian (?), The Woman taken in adultery; *105. Rubens, Portrait of himself and his first wife, Elisabeth Brandt, as Pausias and Glycera (the flowers by Jan Brueghel); *101. Velazquez, Don Balthazar Carlos, Prince of Asturias, a sketch ; 99. Poussin, Landscape with figures ; 97. Turner, Conway Castle. Room v. (Rubens Room). To the left: *113. Israelites gathering manna; *114. Abraham and Melchisedek ; '115. The four Evangelists , three of a series of nine pictures painted by Rubens in Spain in the year 1629. VI. Corridor: 116. Murillo, Landscape with Jacob andLaban; Sketches of Egyptian scenes. VII. Ante-Room. To the left: lid. Fr a Bariolommeo (i), Holy Family; 125. Domenichino, Landscape. The Vestibule contains a 'Terracotta Bust bv Alessandro VittoHa. Stafford House, or Sutherland House (PI. R, 22; IV), in St. James's Park, between St. James's Palace and the Green Park, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland^ is perhaps the finest private man- 18* 276 25. BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. sion ill London, and contains a good collection of paintings, wMcli is shown to the puhlic on certain fixed days in spring and summer. Application for admission should be made to the Duke's secretary. We begin to the right, in the large gallery: 73. Zurbaran, Madonna with the Holy Child and John the Baptist (1653); 67. Annibale Cavracci, Flight into Egypt-, *62. 3f urillo . Uetnvn of the Prodigal Son; 61. Ascribed to Raphael, Christ bearing the Cross (a Florentine picture of little value); 59. Farmigiano, Betrothal of St. Catharine; 58, 54. Zurbaran, SS. Cyril and Martin; 57. Dujardin, David with the head of Goliath; '=53. Murillo, Abraham entertaining the three angels; 51. After Durer . Death of the Virgin; 48. Paul Belaroche, Lord Strafford, on his way to the scaffold, receiving the blessing of Archbishop Laud (1838). — 47. Ascribed to Correggio^ Mules and mule-drivers. This work is described as having been painted by Correggio in his youth, and is said to have served as a tavern-sign on the Via Flaminia near E.ome. In reality it is an unimportant work of a much later period. Opposite: 42. Tintoretto^ Venetian senator; 36. Rubens, Coronation of Maria de' Medici, design in grisaille upon wood for the painting in the Louvre; 33. Eonthorst, Christ before Caiaphas; 30. Murillo, Portrait; *27. Van Dyck, Portrait of the Earl of Arundel; 25. L. Carracci, Holy Family; 23. Parmigiano, Vovtreiit; 22. G^wercmo, Pope Gregory and Ignatius Loyola; *19. Moroni, Portrait; 18. Ascribed to Titian, Mars, Venus, and Cupid; 15. Zurbaran, St. Andrew; 5. A. Cano, God the Father. The pictures in the private apartments are not exhibited. Bridgewater House (PI. R, 22 ; IV\ in Cleveland Row, by the Green Park, to the S. of Piccadilly, is the mansion of the Eari o/* EUesmere, and possesses one of the finest picture-galleries in London. The most important works are hung in the private rooms. Admission to the large picture hall is granted for "Wednes- days and Saturdays, on application supported by some person of influence. On the walls of the Staircase: A. Carracci, Copy of Correggio''s 'II Giorno' at Parma; N. Poussin, The Seven Sacraments, a celebrated series of paintings; Veit, Mary at the Sepulchre; Pawwmi, Piazza di S. Pietro at Rome. Gallery. To the right of the entrance: ''Guido Reni, Assumption of the Virgin, a large altarpiece, nobly conceived and carefully finished. To the left: 156. 0. Coques, Portrait; 225. Stoop, Boy with grey horse; 142. Brekelencamp, Saying grace; 31. Ascribed to Sebastian del Piombo, Entombment; 125. Bassano, Last Judgment; *263. P. van Slingeland, The kitchen (1685); 243. JV. Berchem, Eiver scene; 217. Metsu, Fish-woman; -*126. A. van Ostade, Man with wine-glass (1677) ; 137. Ary de Voys, Young man in a library; 209. N. Berchem, Landscape; *17. Titian, Diana and her nymphs interrupted at the bath by the approach of Actseon, painted in 1559; 136. Rembrandt, Portrait; 247. /. van Ruysdael, Bank of a river; '•-'166. A. van Ostade, Skittle-players (1676); 258. W. van de Velde, Rough sea (1656); 212. iV. Berchem, Landscape; *196. Ruysdael, Bridge; *65. Paris Bordone, Portrait of a man (high up); *281. /. Wynants, Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde (1669). — **19. Titian, "The Venus of the shell.' 'Venus Anadyomene rising — new-born but full-grown — from the sea, and wringing her hair . . . Titian never gave more perfect rounding with so little shadow". — Crowe and Cavalcaselle. This work, painted some time after 1520, has unfortunately suffered from attempts at restoration. 135. Van der Heyde, Draw -bridge ; 222. A. Brouwer, Peasants at the fireside; 171. Van J^wj/smot, Flowers (1723-24) ; 177. A. van Ostade, Portrait; 242. Metsu, Lady caressing her lap-dog. — *18. Titian, Diana and Callisto. 'Titian was too much of a philosopher and naturalist to wander into haze or supernatural halo in a scene altogether of earth'. — C. & C. 284. A. van der Neer, Moonlight scene; 233. Netscher, Lady washing 25. APSLEY HOUSE. 277 her hands; 154. A. von Osiade, Backgammon players; 130. Teniers, The alchemist; *141. W. van de Velde, Naval piece (an early work). On the opposite wall: *153. Jan Steen, The school-room, a large canvas; 190. Wynanis , Landscape; 182. Isaac van Ostade^ Village street; *168. Rembrandt , Mother with sons praying ; *280. Paul Potter , Cows ; 111. Netscher, A fashionable lady; *183. Isaac van Oslade, Village street; *191. J. Steen, The fishmonger; 267. Cuyp, Ruin; *90. Lorenzo Lotto, Ma- donna with saints, an early work (hung high); 109. Salomon Koning, The philosopher's study; 214. W. Mieris, The violinist; 244. G. Don, The violinist (1637); 165. Wynants, Lamdscape; *129. A. Brouwer, Landscape, surrounded with a border of fruit and flowers by D. Seghers; *194. Metsu., The stirrup-cup (an early work); 257. Ruysdael, Landscape; *201. Pynacker, Alpine scene with waterfall; *195. Hondecoeter , The raven detected, illustrating the well-known fable ; 257. ^o&J»e»!.a, Landscape ; *174. Rubens, Free copy with altered arrangement of Raphael's frescoes in the Villa Farnesina at Rome, the landscapes by some other painter. The following masterpieces on the ground-floor are not shown to visi- tors. In Ladt Ellesmere's Sitting Room: '^'■-Raphael, Madonna and Child, the 'Bridgewater Madonna' (copy in the National Gallery); *35. Raphael, Holy Family ('La Vierge au palmier'); '•'■'29. Titian, Holy Family (an early work, ascribed to Palma Vecchio); ''14. Luini, Head of a girl (assigned to Leonardo da Vinci) ; '^"•'77. Palma Vecchio, The three periods of life (after Titian's painting in the Palazzo Doria at Rome). The Drawing Room and Lord Ellesmeee's Sitting Room contain a number of admirable works of the Dutch school, including the fine ''Girl at work, by N. Maes. Lansdowne House [PI. R, 22 ; J), Berkeley Square, the property of the Marquis of Lansdowne, contains a valuable picture-gallery and a collection of Roman sculptures. The house has heen let to Mr. W. W. Astor, and admission may be obtained on application to his secretary. The ancient sculptures form probably the most extensive private collection out of Rome. Most of them were dis- covered at Hadrian's Yilla by Gavin Hamilton. It was while living here , as librarian to Lord Shelburne , that Priestley discovered oxygen. Sculptures. Statue of Mercury, replica of the misnamed Antinous of the Belvedere; Youthful Hercules ; Juno enthroned; Bacchus; Diomede with the palladium ; Jason untying his sandals ; Wounded Amazon ; Marcus Aurelius as Mars; Statue of an emperor; Numerous reliefs, funereal columns, etc. 'Woman asleep, by Canova, his last work; Child soliciting alms, by Ranch. Pictures. In the Ante-Room: Tidemand and Gude, Norwegian land- scape; Gonzales Coques, Portraits of an architect and his wife ; Sir Tho?nas Lawrence, Portrait of Lord Lansdowne. — In Lord Lansdowne^s Sitling- Room: '-Rembrandt, The last-painted portrait of himself (about 1665); '■'Rey- nolds, Lady Ilchester; Master of Treviso (assigned to Giorgione), Concert; Landscapes by Both and "Isaac van Ostade. — In the Library: '-Van Dyck, Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I. ; RembrandCs School , Two portraits; Luini. St. Barbara. — In the Drawing Room: '■'Rembrandt, Por- trait of a lady (1642) ; "B. van der Heist, Portrait of a lady (1640) ; Guer- cino. The Prodigal Son; *'Murillo, The Conception; '-^Velazquez, Portrait of himself ; Velazquez, Portrait of Olivarez ; "Cuyp , Portrait of a young girl; G. Dolci , Madonna and Child. — In the Front Drawing Room: * Se- bastian del Piombo, Portrait of Federigo da Bozzolo ; "Gainsborough, Por- trait of a lady. Apsley House [PI. R, 18; IV), Hyde Park Corner, the residence of the Duke of Wellington, was built in 1785 for Earl Bathurst, Lord High Chancellor of England, and in 1820 purchased by Govern- ment and presented to the Duke of Wellington, as part of the 278 25. HERTFORD HOUSE. nation's reward for his distinguislied services. A few years later the mansion was enlarged, and the external brick facing replaced by stone. The site is one of the best in London , and the interior is very expensively fitted up. It contains a picture-gallery, nu- merous portraits and statues, and a great many gifts from royal donors. Admission only through personal introduction to the Duke. On the Staircase: Canova''s colossal Statue of Napoleon I. Picture Gallery (on the first floor). To the right: Velazquez, Pea- sants at a bridge; 'Parmigiano , Betrothal of St. Catharine; *' Velazquez, The master of the feast (an early work) ; Marcello Venusti, Annunciation ; "Velazquez^ Quevedo, poet and satirist; Velazquez ^ Portrait of Pope Inno- cent X. (repetition of the painting in the Doria Gallery at Rome) ;''*Cor»'eg'^«o, Christ in Gethsemane (copy in the National Gallery); Watteau ^ Court festival; TFoMwerman, Equestrian scene; CZawde, Palaces at sunset ; Rubens, Holy Family; Spagnoletto, Allegorical ^ici\xre,\ Wouwer man, Starting for the chase; "Velazquez^ Two boys; Murillo, St. Catharine; several large and well-executed copies of Raphael (Bearing of the Cross, etc.). The Sitting Room of the Duchess contains some admirable examples of the art of the Netherlands: 'P. Potter, Deer in a wood; *J. Guyp, Cavalier with grey horse ; A. van Ostade, Peasants gaming ; '*Jan Steen, Family scene, The smokers ; Van dev Heyde, Canal in a town ; N. Maes, The Milk-seller; Wouwerman^ Camp scene; "Lucas van Leyden , Supper; N. Maes ^ The listener. — In the Corridor: y. Victor, Horses feeding; Jan Steen, Peasants at a wedding feast. Dorchester House [PL R, 18; IV), the residence of Capt. Hol- ford, a handsome edifice in Park Lane , contains a good collection of pictures, shown in spring and summer to visitors provided with an introduction. Among the finest works of art are — Rooms T. & II. "^Velazquez, "Portrait of the Duke Olivarez; and op- posite, ^Portrait of Philip IV., both life-size, early works in excellent con- dition; Paul Potter, Goats at pasture (dated 1647); A. van Ostade, Interior (1661); Cornelis de Fo*, Portrait ofalady; *i22/2/sdaeZ, Landscape with view of Haarlem; ~ Lorenzo Lotto, 'PortT⁢ '^Oattd. Ferrari. Marj, Joseph, and a cardinal; Titian (1), Tortra.it; Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; ~Cuyp, "View of Dordrecht; Tintoretto , Tovira.it; Luini (7) , Flora; Fr a Angelica (^ or- Pesellino), Six saints. Room III. ''Bronzino, Leonora, consort of Cosimo I.; Tintoretto (ascribed to Bassano), Conversation-piece of three figures; 'Rembrandt, Portrait of Martin Looten (dated 1632) ; *Hobbema, Margin of a forest (1663) ; Paolo Veronese (school-piece), Portrait of the Queen of Cyprus ; 'Titian, Holy Family with John the Baptist ; Dosso , Portrait of the Duke of Ferrara ; *Van Dyck , Portrait of the Marchesa Balbi. Hertford House (PL R, 20; /), Manchester Square, the resi- dence of the late Sir Richard Wallace, contains, in a fine gallery built for its reception, the famous ^Hertford Collection, long on view at Bethnal Green Museum (p. 129). Besides a very choice gallery of pictures, the collection includes specimens of gold and silver workmanship , Renaissance and rococo furniture , majolica , por- celain, bronzes, and art - treasures of every description. It is rarely shown to strangers, but admission may sometimes be obtain- ed in spring or summer on Wed., 11-1, by cards obtained on ap- plication to Lady Wallace's private secretary. Almost the whole of the Furniture of the exhibition rooms and the private apartments was brought from Versailles and other royal chateaux of France. The "^'Picture Gallery is justly esteemed the finest private collection 25. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE. 279 in England. It contains 13 genuine specimens oi Rembrandt ; aud Velat' quez and Murillo, Rubens and Van Dyck are also represented by master- pieces. The collection of modern French paintings is more important than that of the Luxembourg at Paris, includin^i; 25 masterpieces by Meissonier, 13 by Delaroche, 31 by Decamps, and 5 by Ary Scheffer. Among the Italian pictures are works by Gima da Coneglicmo, Luini, Guido Reni, Canaletto, and Quardi. The English school is represented by Reynolds (''Portrait of Nelly O'Brien), Lawrence, Stanfield, Landseer, Bonington, and others. The Lady Brassey Museum, at 24 Park Lane, contains a valuable and interesting ethnological collection, antiquities, coral, stuffed birds, jewellery, and curiosities of various kinds , collected by the late Lady Brassey during her voyages in the 'Sunbeam' yacht, to almost every part of the world. Admission is sometimes granted on application to Lord Brassey. The museum-building is fitted up and decorated in the Indian style, with carvings, etc., partly by Hindoo artists and partly executed in London. The lower room was originally the 'Durbar Hair of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition in London. At the entrance and on the staircase are Oriental arms and armour, embroideries, stuffed birds, etc. A collection of boats and models near the top of the staircase includes a child's toy- boat picked up by the 'Sunbeam' in mid-ocean. — The glass-cases in the museum are numbered from left to right. 1. Personal souvenirs of Lady Brassey, nnd reminiscences of voyages. 2-4. Ethnological collection from Borneo, Burmah, and the Straits of Malacca. 5. Oriental Arms. 6. Spec- imens from Australian and other mines. 7. Indian jewellery and works in brass and silver. 8. Pottery and porcelain, including specimens from Fiji, and a sun-baked tea-set from the Shetland Islands. 'J. Ethnological collection (excluding the South Seas). 10. Jewellery and ornaments from the Balkan Peninsula, Cyprus, China, South America, etc. Above, Bur- mese silver bowls ; Indian pottery. 11-18. Interesting ethnological collec- tion, mainly from New Guinea and the South Sea Islands. The cases are lined with native cloth, made from the bark of the paper-mulberry tree. The birds are from New Guinea. 19-22 Corals. 23-26. Antiquities from Cyprus, Egypt, and South America; some of great rarity. 27. Mis- cellaneous collection of artistic objects from various sources. 28-29. Ja- panese objects. 30. Savage ornaments, mainly from the South Seas. 31. Ornaments and jewellery from India. 82. Savage ornaments, from the Sandwich Islands, South Sea Islands, South Africa, etc. Beside the windows are cases of birds of Paradise, flying-fish, etc. In the wall-cases are cloaks made of sea-birds' skins and feathers, from the Aleutian Islands; *Feather-cloak from the South Sea. Doorway from a Buddhist monastery in Tibet ; above, specimens of pottery from the Solomon Islands. Articles used by the savage tribes of North Queensland. — The library contains 80 or 90 volumes of photographs taken in all parts of the world. Some of the other private art-collections of London , to which access can be gained only through personal introduction , must be mentioned more briefly. DevonsMre House (PI. R, 22 ; 77), Piccadilly, between Ber- keley Street and Stratton Street, the London residence of the Duke of Devonshire, contains fine portraits by Jordaens, Reynolds, Tin- toretto, Dobson, Lely, and Kneller. In the library are the 'Kemble Plays', a valuable collection of English dramas, including the first editions of Shakspeare , formed by John Philip Kemble ; and a fine collection of gems. The Earl of Northbrook's Collection, at 4 Hamilton Place, Picca- dilly, formed out of the famed Baring Oallery, is especially notable 280 26. ALBERT HALL. for its adDiirable examples of the Quattrocentists, aud also contains Holbein's fine portrait of Hans Herbster of Strassburg (1516), and important works by Jan van Eyck, Cranach, Mazzolini, Garofalo, Seb. del Piombo, Murillo, Zurbaran, Velazquez, Rembrandt, Bol, Don, Steen, Ruysdael, Cuyp, Rubens, etc. The rich collection of early Italian pictures of Mr. L. Mond, 20 Avenue Road, N.W., may be seen by appointment on -written application. It contains a large altarpiece by Raphael, and works by Fra Bartolommeo , Mantegna, Botticelli, Giovanni and Gentile Bellini, Garofalo, Titian, Ghirlandajo, Cima da Conegliano, Dosso Dossi, Sodoma, and others. 26. Albert Memorial. Albert Hall. Imperial Insti- tute. Natural History Museum. To the S. of Kensington Gardens, between Queen's Gate and Prince's Gate, near the site of the Exhibition of 1851, rises the*Al- bert Memorial (PI. R, 9), a magnificent monument to Albert, the late Prince Consort (d. 1861), erected by the English nation at a cost of 120,000i. , half of which was defrayed by voluntary contri- butions. On a spacious platform, to which granite steps ascend on each side, rises a basement, adorned with reliefs in marble, repre- senting artists of every period (169 figures). On the S. side are Poets and Musicians, and on the E. side Painters, by Armstead ; on the N. side Architects, and on the W. Sculptors, by Philip. Four pro- jecting pedestals at the angles support marble groups, representing Agriculture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Engineering. In the centre of the basement sits the colossal bronze-gilt figure of Prince Albert, wearing the robes of the Garter, 15 ft. high, hy Foley, under a Gothic canopy, borne by four clustered granite columns. The canopy terminates at the top in a Gothic spire, rising in three stages, and surmounted by a cross. The whole monument, designed by Sir O. G. Scott (d. 1878), is 175 ft. in height, and is gorgeously embellished with a profusion of bronze and marble statues, gilding, coloured stones, and mosaics. At the corners of the steps leading up to the basement are pedestals bearing allegorical marble figures of the quarters of the globe : Europe by Alacdowell, Asia by Foley, Africa by Theed, America by Bell. The canopy bears, in blue mosaic letters on a gold ground, the inscription : 'Queen Victoria and Her People to the memory of Albert, Prince Consort, as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted to the public good.' On the opposite side of Kensington Gore stands the *Eoyal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences (PI. R, 9), a vast amphitheatre in the Italian Renaissance style, destined for concerts, scientific and art assemblies, and other similar uses. The building, which was con- structed in 1867-71 from designs by Fowke and Scott, is oval in form (measuring 270 ft. by 240 ft., and 810 ft. in circumference), 26. ALBERT HALL. 281 and can accommodate 8000 people comfortably. The cost of its erection amounted to 200,000f., of whicli 100,000i. was contributed by the public , 50,000^ came from the Exhibition of 1851, and about 40,000f. was defrayed by the sale of the boxes. The ex- terior is tastefully ornamented in coloured brick and terracotta. The terracotta frieze , which runs round the whole building above the gallery, was executed by Minton ($' Co., and depicts the different nations of the globe. The Arena is 100 ft. long by 70 broad, and has space for 1000 persons. The Amphitheatre, which adjoins it, contains 10 rows of seats, and holds 1360 persons. Above it are three rows of boxes, those in the lowest row being constructed for 8 persons each , those in the centre or 'grand tier' for 10, and those in the upper tier for 5 persons. Still higher is the Balcony with 8 rows of seats (1800 persons), and lastly, above the balcony, is the Picture Gallery, adorned with scagliola columns, containing accommodation for an audience of 2000, and affording a good survey of the interior. It communicates by a number of doors with the Outer Gallery, which encircles the whole of the Hall, and commands a flneviewof the Albert Memorial. The ascent to the gallery is facilitated by two 'lifts', one on each side of the building (Id.). The Organ, built by Willis, is one of the largest in the world ; it has 8000 pipes, and its bellows are worked by two steam engines. (The organ is occasionally played about 4 p.m., when notice is given in the daily papers ; small fee.) The Albert Hall stands nearly on the former site of Gore House, which has given its name to Kensington Gore, the high road from Knights- bridge to Kensington. Although le.-s famous than Holland House, it poss- essed fully as much political and social influence at the beginning of the present centurj-. It was for many years the residence of William Wilber- force, around whom gathered the leaders of the anti - slavery and other philanthropic enterprises. It was afterwards the abode of the celebrated Lady Blessington, who held in it a kind of literary court, which was at- tended by the most eminent men of letters, art, and science in England. Louis Napoleon, Brougham, Lyndhurst, Thackeray. Dickens, Moore, Landor, Bulwer, Landseer, and Count D'Orsay were among her frequent visitors. During the exhibition of 1851 Gore House was used as a restaurant, where M. Soyer displayed his culinary skill ; and it was soon afterwards purchased with its grounds by the Commissioners of the Exhibition, for 60,000?. On the S. side of the Albert Hall, in Prince Consort Road, is the Royal College of Music, incorporated by royal charter in 1883 for the advancement of the science and art of music in the British Em- pire. The present building was opened in May, 1894, by the Prince of Wales, the president of the institution. Sir George Grove is the director of the college, which provides a thorough musical edu- cation in the style of the Continental Conservatoires. Upwards of fifty scholarships and exhibitions are open to the competition of students. The teaching staff consists of 11 professors and 30 teach- ers ; and in the first year of its existence the college was'? attended by 150 pupils, including several from the Colonies and the United States. The entrance-hall contains statues of the Prince and Priu- 282 26. IMPERIAL INSTITUTE. cess of Wales and a bust of Mr. Samson Fox, to whose muniflcence the building is due. These are all by the late Prince Victor of Hohenlohe. — On the W. side of the Albert Hall is the Alexandra House, a home for female students , projected by the Princess of "Wales and erected in 1886 at the cost of Sir Francis Cook. A little to the E. of the Albert Hall is Lowther Lodge^ a very satisfactory example of Norman Shaw's modern-antique style. Immediately to the S. of the Albert Hall, in South Kensington, lay the Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society, which was founded in 1804 for the promotion of scientific gardening. The gardens were, how- ever, chosen as the site of the Imperial Institute (see below) and the Royal Colleg'e of Music (see above), and the Imperial Institute Road has been con- structed through them from Prince's Gate (Exhibition Road) to Queen's Gate. The flower-shows, formerly held here, are now held in the Drill Hall of the London Scottish Rifle Volunteers, James Street, Victoria, or at the So- ciety's Experimental Gardens at Chiswick (p. 338). The latter are open on week-days from 9 to sunset, and in summer on Sun. also from 1 to sunset. The *Imperial Institute of tlie "United Kingdom, the Colonies, and India, the foundation-stone of which was laid by Queen Vic- toria in 1887, as the national memorial of Her Majesty's Jubilee, is a huge Renaissance edifice by Mr. T. E. Colcutt, with a frontage 600 ft. in length, surmounted by a large central tower (280 ft. high), with smaller towers at the corners. In addition to the main building there are a Conference Hall, to the N., 100 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, and Exhibition Galleries covering two acres of ground. The building was opened in 1893 (adm., see p 78). The main objects of the Institute, which was established by funds sub- scribed by the people of the British Empire and is supported by the an- nual payments of the 'Fellows', entrance fees, etc., are: — 1. The formation and exhibition of collections representing the important raw materials and manufactured products of the Empire and of other countries, so main- tained as to illustrate the development of agricultural, commercial, and industrial progress in the Empire, and the comparative advances made in other countries. — 2. The establishment or promotion of commercial mu- seums, sample-rooms, and intelligence offices in London and other parts of the Empire. — 3. The collection and dissemination of information re- lating to trades and industries and to emigration. — 4. Exhibitions of special branches of industry and commerce, and of the work of artizans and of apprentices. — 5. The promotion of technical and commercial education, and of the industrial arts and sciences. — 6. The furtherance of systematic colonization. — 7. The promotion of conferences and lectures in connection with the general work of the Institute, and the facilitating of commercial and friendly intercourse among the inhabitants of the different parts of the British Empire. Visitors enter by the side-entrances, on the E. and "W. of the facade, the main entrance being strangely reserved for 'fellows' of the Institute. Besides permanent collections , which are gradually being formed, there are loan-exhibitions from time to time, an- nounced in the newspapers. Special portions of the building and special privileges are reserved for fellows and their friends; but there are a restaurant, tea-room, etc., open to visitors. A subway, lined with white glazed tiles, runs under the Exhibition Road between the Imperial Institute and the South Kensington railway- station. The buildings which enclose the (former) Horticultural Society's 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM. 283 Gardens on three sides were used, from 1871 to 1874, for the Inter- national Exhibition, which took place annually from April to Sep- tember, and consisted of specimens of the art and industry of different nations. The exhibition buildings, consisting of two-storied galleries running along the W. and E. sides of the Horticultural Gardens, are tastefully built of red brick in the Italian Renaissance style, and adorned with an elegant balustrade and other terracotta decorations. The gallery on the S. side is older. There are en- trances in Princess Oate (^Exhibition Road; see below) and the Im- perial Institute Road (comp. p. 301). The S. and W. Galleries now contain collections connected with S. Kensington Museum [see p. 300), while the E. Gallery is devoted to the India Museum (PL R, 9 ; seep. 301). In Exhibition Road, adjoining the India Museum, is the Guilds Central Technical College , belonging to the City and Ouilds of London Institute (jp. 74). Also connected with the Insti- tute are Finsbury Technical College, Leonard Street, E.G.; the Tech- nical Art School, 122 Kennington Park Road ; and the Leather Trades School , 42 Bethnal Green Road , E. Adjacent is the Royal School of Art Needlework, open to visitors from 10 to 5 or 6 (Sat. 10-2). In Buckingham Palace Road opposite Victoria Station is the National School of Cookery (on view 2-4), an institution for teach- ing the economical preparation of articles of food suitable to smaller households , and for training teachers for branch cookery schools, of which there are now several in London and other towns. On the opposite side of Exhibition Road, at the corner of Crom- well Road, is the South Kensington Museum (p. 285). The large and handsome building to the S. of the International Exhibition Galleries, occupying a great part of the site of the Ex- hibition of 1862, is the new *Natiiral History Museum, containing the natural history collections of the British Museum. It was built in the Romanesque style in 1873-80, from a design by Mr. "Waterhouse, and consists of a central structure , with wings flanked by towers 192 ft. high. The extreme length of the front is 675 ft. The whole of the external facades and the interior wall-surfaces is covered with terracotta bands and dressings , producing a very pleasing effect. The Museum is open daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the season (closed on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day); on Mon. and Sat., from May Ist to July 16th, it is open till 8 p.m., and from July 18th to Aug. 29th, till 7 p.m. General guide 2d. In 1893 the Natural History Collections were visited by 408,208 persons. We first enter the Great Hall, 170 ft. wide and 72 ft. high, with a skeleton of the cachalot, or sperm-whale (Physeter macroeephalus), 60 ft. long, in the centre. The adjoining glass-cases contain groups illustrating albinism, melanism, the variation of species under the influence of do- mestication (pigeons), the variation of sex and season , the adaptation of colouring to surrounding conditions, protective resemblances and mimicry, and the crossing of what outwardly appear to be quite distinct species. The alcoves round the hall are devoted to the Introductory or Elementary 284 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Morphological Collection (still incomplete) , 'designed to teach the most important points in the structure of the principal types of animal and plant life, and the terms used in describing them\ The W. side of the gallery round the hall contains a very interesting collection of birds with their nests, egg?, and young, as in nature: while in the E. gallery is the "Qould Collection of Humming Birds (special catalogue 2d.). A room on the ground-floor, behind the great staircase, contains the British Zoological Collection. The 'Geological ard Palseontological Collection occupies the base- ment of the E, wing (to the right). The S.E. Gallery, 28U ft, long and 50 ft. wide, contains fossil remains of animals of the class Mammalia, In the first Pier-case to the right are placed human and animal remains, with implements of flint and bone, chiefly from the caves of France; among them is the skull of the great sabre-toothed tiger. Table-case 1 also contains skulls and other remains of the prehistoric cave-dwellers, as well as bone-needles, harpoons of reindeer-antler, carved bones, etc. In the Pier-case between the first two windows is a fossilised human skeleton, found in the lime- stone rock on the coast of Guadeloupe, West Indies. Table-cases 2 and 3 contain the remains of extinct carnivorous animals, including a fine col- lection of bones of the great cave-bears. The following cases on this side are devoted to the Ungulata or hoofed animals, such as the rhino- ceros, hippopotamus, palfeotherium, horse, pig, and the great family of ruminants. Among the most prominent objects are the skull and lower jaw of the Rhinoceros leptorhinus from the Thames Valley, the sivatherium, a gigantic Indian antelope, and the heads and horns of the extinct wild ox of Great Britain. To this class belong the skeletons of the gigantic Irish elk (Cervtts or Megaceros hibernicus) in the central passage. Most of the cases on the left side of the gallery are occupied by the very complete collection of the molar teeth and other remains of the Proboscidea, or elephants, including the mastodon, mammoth, and twelve other species. In one case is a fragment of the woolly skin of the Siberian mammoth. Closely allied to this species was the Ilford mammoth, found in the valley of the Thames, the skull and tusks of which are exhibited in the middle of the gallery. On a stand close by is the skeleton of Steller's sea-cow (Rhytina), an extinct species, found in the peat deposits of Behring's Island, Kamschatka. On a separate stand near the beginning of the gallery is a perfect skeleton of the mastodon, found in Missouri, to one side of which are the skulls of a dinotherium (lower jaw a plaster reproduction), from Epplesheim in Hesse-Darmstadt, and of a mastodon from Buenos Ayres. — At the end of the gallery we enter the Pavilion, which contains the fossil Birds, Marsupialia, and Edentata. Among the first are remains of the dinornis, or moa, an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand. Table-case 13 contains specimens of the ofdest fossil birds as yet discovered, in which the tail is an elongation of the back-bone. Other cases contain remains of the gigantic extinct kangaroo of Australia (six times larger than its living representative), and of some of the diminutive mammals of the earliest geological period. In the centre is the skeleton of a megatherium from Buenos Ayres, a huge extinct animal, the bony frame-work of which is almost identical with that of the existing sloth. Its colossal strength is indicated by the form of its bones, with their surfaces roughened for the attachment of powerful muscles and ten- dons. Adjacent is a cast of a gigantic extinct armadillo (Glyptodon clavipes) from Buenos Ayres, beside which the skeleton of a living species is placed for comparison. In the corridor leading to the N. from the end of the gallery is placed a plaster cast of a plesiosaurus. The passage leads to — Gallery D, which is devoted to the fossil Reptiles. In Wall-case 1 and Table-cases 1 d- 2 are remains of the pterodactyles or flying lizards, while to the left is a large collection of icthyosauria. At the end of the gallery is a cast of a gigantic Indian tortoise. The various galleries extending to the N. of the reptile gallery, each about 140 ft, long, contain the fossil Fishes and Invertebrate Animals. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 285 We now return to the entrance - hall and enter the S.W. Gallery, to the left, which contains the Ornithological Collection. The mounting of the specimens in the glass-cases in the middle of the floor is extremely skilful. The Pavilion at the end of the gallery contains the ostriches, emus, and cassowaries. The parallel gallery to the N. contains the Collection of Corals, while the galleries at right angles to this are devoted to the Fishes, Insects, Reptiles, and Shells. A staircase, descending from the westernmost of the passages connecting the Bird and Coral Galleries, leads to the basement of the W. wing, which is occupied by the Cetacean Collection, including ihe skeleton of a common rorqual or fin-whale (Balaenptera musculus), 68 ft. long. We now again return to the Great Hall and ascend the large flight of steps at the end of it to the first floor. On the first landing-place is a statue of Charles Darwin (d. 1882), by Boehm. On the first floor, above the British Zoological Collection, is the Refreshment Room (entr. to right and left at the head of the staircase). To the ri^ht, above the geological department, is the *Mineralogical Collection, which contains a most ex- tensive array of minerals , meteorites . etc. A notice at the door gives instruction as to the best order in which to study the specimens here. To the right and left of the entrance are cases containing different varie- ties of marble and granite. Among the most remarkable objects in the other cases are a unique crystalline mass of Rubellite from Ava (Case 33), a magnificent crystal of light red silver ore from Chili (Case 8), and the unrivalled groups of topazes and agates (Cases 25 & 14). In Case 13 is a piece of jasper, the veining in which bears a singular resemblance to a well-known portrait of Geoffrey Chaucer. In Case 1 g is the -Colenso Diamond' (130 carats), presented by Mr. Ruskin. Among the larger ob- jects in the room at the E. end of the gallery is the Melbourne meteorolite, the heaviest known (3V2 tons). The gallery in the W. wing of the first floor, above the Bird Gallery, contains the Mammalian Collection. The most interesting section is that devoted to the various species of monkeys; close to the entrance are the anthropoid apes. In the middle of the gallery are the seals and walruses-, farther on, the giraftes, elephants, and hippopotami. The ^Botanical Collection is exhibited on the second floor of the E. wing. It includes specimens of plants of all kinds, polished tablets of different kinds of wood, specimens of fruit and seeds, etc. Among the most interesting herbaria are those of Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum (see p. 242; about 1750), John Ray, Sowerhy (English plants), and Sir Joseph Banks (1820), the last including the collection of Ceylon plants made by Hermann and described by Linn?eus. The botani- cal drawings by F. Bauer, some of which are exhibited to the public in cases, form the finest collection of the kind in the world, remarkable both for scientific accuracy and artistic beauty. The second floor of the W. wing is devoted to the Osteological Collection, with a very extensive collection of skulls. At the top of the staircase (second floor) is a sitting figure of Sir Joseph Banks (d. 1820), the botanist, by Chantrey, brought from the British Museum in 1886. The Natural History Museum faces Cromwell Road, a street of palatial residences , al)Out 1 M. in length, and so called because Henry, son of the Protector, resided in ahouse-which once stood here. 27. South Kensington Museum. India Museum. The **South Kensington Museum (PI. R, 9), in Brompton, to the S. of Hyde Park, at the corner of Exhibition Road and Cromwell Road, 1 M. to the W. of Hyde Park Corner, is most 286 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. easily reached by the Metropolitan Railway. The station (p. 38) is only a few hundred yards to the S.W. either of the prin- cipal entrance in Cromwell Road, oroftheN.W. entrance in Ex- hibition Road. The Museum is open gratis on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; on Wednesdays, Thurs- days, and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the sea- son, charge Qd. Tickets, including admission to the libraries, etc., 6d. per week. Is. Qd. per month, 3s. per quarter, IDs. per year. In the middle of the building are refreshment rooms (p. 293), to the right and left of which are lavatories for ladies and gentlemen. The Museum, which was opened in 1857, is one of the sub- divisions of the Department of Science and Art of the Committee of Council on Education , which is under the control of the Lord President of the Council for the time being, assisted by a Vice President. The object of the Department is the promotion of science and art by means of the systematic training of competent teachers, the foundation of schools of science and art, public exa- minations and distribution of prizes, the purchase and exhibition of objects of science and art, and the establishment of science and art libraries. It is carried on at an annual expense of about 600,000i. , defrayed by the national exchequer. Several other institutions in England , Scotland , and Ireland are administered by the Department. Among its professors, directors, and examiners are numbered many of the chief English savants ; and the tangible results of its teaching and influence are seen in the progress of taste and knowledge in the fine arts and natural science throughout the kingdom. The Science Division of the Museum is for the pre- sent shown in various buildings to the W. of Exhibition Road (comp. p. 300). The Museum was visited in 1893 by 1,174,211. persons, and the total number of visitors since its opening in 1857 has been 31,805,642. The director of the Science Museum is Major-General E. R. Festing ; the director of the Art Museum is Dr. John H. Middlelon. — Bethnal Green Museum (p. 131) is a branch of the South Kensington Museum, established for the benefit of the great industrial population of the E. End, and main- tained at an annual cost of 8000i. The present buildings of South Kensington Museum contain — 1. The Museum of Ornamental or Applied Art, a collection of modern and mediaeval works of art (44,697 in number) and plaster casts or electrotype reproductions of celebrated ancient and modern works, partly belonging to the Museum and partly on loan, 2. The National Gallery of British Art, or Picture Gallery, on the upper floor. 3. The Art Library, consisting of upwards of 70,000 vols, and a collection of 190, 000 drawings, engravings, and photographs. 4. The Science and Education Library, containing upwards of 66,000 volumes. 17. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 287 5. The National Art Training Schools, in which drawing, painting, and modelling are taught. 6. The Royal College of Science, for the training of teachers and others. The Art Collection, which both in value and extent is one of the finest in the world, is at present exhibited in three large courts roofed with glass, and in the galleries surrounding and diverging from Ground Floor. Arcade. I North Court (Italian). - -j— — > (Italian). : ^ ^ South Corridor of Antique Sculpture. T" South Court. I — Oil i\ them, including a new wing opened in 1884. The collections in the Exhibition Galleries [see pp. 300, 3011 also belong to the South Kensington Museum. A building in Exhibition Road for the Science Schools, chiefly of terracotta, with fine sgraffito decorations, was completed in 1872-3. The Museum is largely indebted for its ra- pid progress to the generosity of private individuals in lending the most costly treasures of art for public exhibition (Loan Col- 288 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. lection) ,• "but Government has also liljerally expended considerable sums in the acquisition of valuable objects of art. All the articles in the museum are provided with a notice of their origin, the names of the artist and [if on loan) owner, and (when acquired by pur- chase) a statement of their cost. The following is necessarily but a limited list of the chief objects of interest permanently belonging to the institution ; and of the numerous plaster casts only such are mentioned as are not usually met with in other collections. The ar- rangement is frequently altered. Even a superficial glance at all the different departments of the museum occupies a whole day ; but it is far more satisfactory, as well as less fatiguing, to pay repeated visits. Guide-books, catalogues, and photographs are sold at stalls close to the entrance of the Architectural Court. In the grounds at the Peincipal Entrance (temporary) in Cromwell Road is a sitting statue of Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy by Marochetti. Inside the building we first find ourselves in the Architectural Court, each half measuring 135 ft. by 60 ft. It is divided into two portions by an arcade (17 ft. broad) running down the centre, and is devoted to full-size plaster and other reproductions, chiefly of large architectural works, along with a few original objects. In entering we pass under a fine *Rood Loft, of alabaster and marble, from the Cathe- dral of Bois-le-Duc, North Brabant (1625). — Immediately in front is a cast of the Monument of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey (p. 223), behind which is the original plaster model of a statue of Cromwell by John Bell. In the middle of the room is a copy, in two parts, of Trajan's Column, the original of which was erected at Rome in A. D. 114. The reliefs represent Trajan's war with the Dacians, and include 2500 human figures, besides animals, chariots, etc. Between the two parts of this column is a cast of the main W. portal of the Cathedral of St. Sauveur, at Aix in Provence. — To the left of the entrance is the competition sketch model for the Wellington Monument in St. Paul's, in painted plaster of Paris, by Alfred Stevens. Adjacent are original models of various figures and groups forming part of the design. The composition is pleasing, though in a decorative rather than in a monumental style. — To the left : Copy of the Chapter House Door in Rochester Cathedral (see Baedeker s Great Britain). Cast of a portion of Rosslyn Chapel, near Edinburgh, with the column known as the 'Prentice's Pillar' (1446). Cast of the angle of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo (15th cent.), an admirable example of Spanish Gothic. Cast of the Tabernacle in the church of St. Leonard at L^au , in Belgium, executed by Cornells de Vriendt in 1552, and one of the finest works of the Flemish Renaissance. Original Alhacena or cupboard from Toledo (14th cent.). — To the right: Carved oak *Front of Sir Paul Pindar's House, formerly in Bishopsgate without (1600). Cast of the Schreyer Monument, outside the St. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 289 Sebaldus Churcli at Nuremberg, one of Adam Krafft's masterpieces, executed in 1492 (Deposition , Entombment, Resurrection). Cast of Choir-stalls, in carved oak, from the Cathedral of Ulm, by Jorg Syrlin (about 1468]. Reproduction of Donatello's Singing Gallery, formerly in the Duomo of Florence and now in the Museo Nazionale of that city (on the wall, at the end). — By the end-wall : *Cast of the Puerta della Gloria or portal of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella, Spain, by Maestro Mateo, an imposing work in the Romanesque style (end of the 12th cent.). In the lunette is a colos- sal figure of Christ. In front is a plaster cast of the Bronze Lion of Brunswick, the original of which is said to have been brought from Constantinople in 1166 by Henry the Lion. — To the left, casts of a portion of the Rood Loft in Limoges Cathedral, erected in 1543, and the lower portion of a carved wooden doorway in Beauvais Ca- thedral (16th cent.). — This section of the court also contains casts of works by Jean Goujon (1515-72), Jean Cousin, Germain Pilon, etc. Eastern Section of the Court. On the entrance-wall is the cast of a Chimney-piece from the Palais de Justice at Bruges, by Lancelot Blondeel, a fine specimen of Flemish work of the 16th cen- tury. Above is a cast of Thorvaldsen's frieze representing the Triumphal Entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon. In front, to the left, is a cast of the choir-screen of the church of St. Michael, Hildesheim, a Romanesque work of the end of the 11th century. — Behind the last. Cast of the shrine of St. Sebaldus, Nuremberg, the masterpiece of Peter Vischer (1519). — To the right are casts of wooden Church Doors from Norway (12-13th cent.), a copy of the Celtic Cross at Gosforth, Cumberland (7th cent,), etc. On the wall copies of part of the Coloured Terracotta Frieze in the Ceppo Hos- pital atPistoja, by Giov. della Robbia. — In the middle of the room are casts of two celebrated Pulpits in Pisa, by Nicola (1260) and Giovanni Pisano (1302-1311). Farther on, cast of Shrine of St. Peter Martyr in the church of S. Eustorgio at Milan, by Balduccio of Pisa. — To the right, by the wall, cast of the Marsuppini Monument by Desiderio da Settignano in Sta. Croce, Florence (late 15th cent.); farther on, the original Monument of Marquis Malaspina from Verona (1536). — Almost in front of this monument is a cast of the Pulpit by Benedetto da Maiano in Sta. Croce, Florence (15th cent.) ■ — Opposite is a copy of the Font in the Baptistery at Siena. — At the N. end is a series of casts of the masterpieces of Michael Angelo, including the colossal statue of David, backed by a cast of the great doorway of S. Petronio, Bologna. This section also contains casts of works by Donatello, etc. The door to the left in tbe W. section of the Architectural Court leads to the Collection of Tapestry and Textile Fabrics fp. 294). We now descend the steps at the end of the Central Passage into the — South Court, which is also divided into an eastern and a western Baedbkbk, London. 9th Edit. 19 290 17. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. half by an arcade (above it the Prince Consort Gallery, p. 299). — On the upper part of the walls of these two departments, in sunken panels, are portraits (some in mosaic) of the 35 following famous artists (beginning on the left, at the S. angle of the "W. section): 1. Leonardo da Vinci, painter (d. 1519); 2. Raphael Sanzio , painter (d. 1520)5 3. Torregiano, sculptor (d. 1522); 4. Peter Vischer, artist in metal (d. 1529)-, 5. Bernardino Lnini, painter (d. 1550); 6. Lancelot Blon- deel, Flemish painter, sculptor, and architect (d. 1559); 7. Velazquez de Silva, painter (d. 1660); 8. Maestro Giorgio of Gubbio , potter (d. 1552); 9. Hans Holbein the Younger, painter (d. 1543); 10. Michael Angelo Buona- rotti, painter and sculptor (d. 1564); U. Titian, painter (d. 1576) ; 12. Ber- nard Palissy, potter (d. 1590) ; 13. Inigo Jones, architect (d. 1652); 14. Grin- ling Gibbons, carver in wood (d. 1721); 15. Sir Christopher Wren, architect (d. 1723); 16. William Hogarth, painter (d. 1764); 17. Sir Joshua Reynolds, painter (d. 1792); 19. W. Mulready, painter fd. 1863); 19. Jan van Eyck, painter (d. 1440); 20. Phidias, sculptor (d. 432 B.C.); 21. Apelles, painter (d. 332 B.C.); 22. Nicola Pisano, sculptor (d. 1273); 23. Giovanni Cimabue, painter (d. about 1302); 24. William Torel, goldsmith (d.1300); 25. Jean Goujon, sculptor fd. 1572); 26. William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, architect (d. 1404); 27. Giotto, painter (d. 1337); 28. Lorenzo Ghiberti, sculptor (d. 1455); 29. Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole, painter (d. 1455); 30. Donatello, sculptor (d. 1466): 31. Benozzo Gozzoli, painter (d. 1498); 32. Luca della Robbia, sculptor (d. 1463) ; 33. A. Mantegna, painter (d. 1506). 34. Giorgione, painter (d. 1511); 35. Fra Beato Giacomo d'Ulma, painter on glass (d. 1517). In the northern lunette of the E. section of the court is a fine *rresco by Sir Frederick Leighton, representing the 'Arts of War' or the application of human skill to martial purposes (best seen from the gallery upstairs). The corresponding *Fresco in the S. lunette, by the same artist, illustrates the 'Arts of Peace'. The Court contains an extremely valuable **Collection of small objects of art in metal, ivory, amber, agate, jade, and porcelain, many of which are lent to the Museum by private owners. The W. half of the court is devoted to European objects, while the E. half . contains works of art from China and Japan (but comp. p. 291). The Western Section contains Ivory Carvings, Gold and Silver Work, and Loan Collections. At the S. end is a very representative collection of ivory carvings, affording a complete and highly instruct- ive survey of the development of this mediaeval art. Among them are some works of world-wide celebrity , such as the leaf of the diptych of a *Bacchante of the 4th cent. , probably the finest early ivory carving extant, the leaf of a Byzantine Diptych formerly in the Cathedral of Liege, and the Diptych of R. Gennadius Probus Orestes, Consul of the East, A.D. 530. The *Veroli Casket, of the 11th cent., is in the same case. In other cases are triptychs, figures, etc., of French workmanship of the lith century. Then, tankards, caskets, combs, etc., of a later date. The best works of other col- lections are here represented by admirable casts in fictile ivory (scien- tific catalogue by Westwood). — Other cases contain a valuable col- lection of silversmith's work, ecclesiastical vessels, jewellery, per- sonal ornaments, clocks and watches, carvings in amber, engraved crystal, snuff-boxes, bishops' croziers, etc. Among the single objects 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 291 of greatest importance are the 'Gloucester candlestick' (early 12tli cent.), a *Byzantine crystal ewer of the 9th or 10th cent., a *Cup in repousse work, attributed to Jamnitzer, hut prohahly by an imitator, an Astronomical Globe made at Augsburg for the Emp. Ru- dolf II. in 1584, a *Mirror made for the royal family of Savoy, and a table in damascened work (Milan), etc. To the left, in the arcade, is the inlaid oak panelling of a room from Sizergh Castle, West- morland (late 16th cent.). At the N. end is a collection of arms and armour , and a case of pewter-work , including specimens of Francois Briot (16th cent.). The Central Passage contains an admirable collection of rings, arranged according to countries and destined uses (wedding, mourn- ing, motto, charm, iconographic, etc.); cameos, gems, precious stones ; bracelets, earrings, necklaces of various nations ; and a collection of military and naval medals and other decorations. In one case is a large and varied collection of precious stones bequeathed, by the Rev. Chauncy Hare Townshend. This passage also contains collec- tions of gold and silver plate and jewellery lent by Mr. J. Bunn- Oardner, and of arms and armour lent by Mr. D. M. Oiirrie. In one of these cases are some admirable specimens of English silversmith's work, notably a silver-gilt *Salt-cellar (hall-mark for 1586-7) and a *Cup and cover (hall-mark for 1611). The West Arcade of this court contains fans and numerous examples of musical instruments (comp. p. 293). The East Section of the South Court is at present mainly oc- cupied by the fine collection of Chinese and Japanese porcelain, majolica, and Damascus, Rhodian , and Persian ware, lent by Mr. 0. Salting. [The Japanese bronzes, etc., formerly exhibited here, have lately been removed to the new gallery in the Imperial Institute; seep. 301.] East Arcabe. Oriental textile fabrics, armour, weapons, por- celain, enamel, carved work, furniture, etc. The Museum Collec- tion of Lace is also exhibited here. — At the S. end is a *Parisian Boudoir of the time of Louis XVI., originally belonging to the Mar- quise de Serilly, Maid of Honour to Marie Antoinette (bought for 2100L). The paintings are by Lagrenee and Rousseau de la Rottiere, the chimney-piece by Clodion, the metal work by Gouthiere. In the South Arcade are the Royal Treasures from Abyssinia, Moorish Saddles, Ashantee Jewellery, etc. From the S.W. corner of this court, we may enter tlie Soutli Corri- dor, with the antique casts (see p. 294). The staircase at the E. end of this corridor ascends to the spacious Art Library (p. 286). The staircase walls are hung with pictures, including fine works by 0. F. Watts., R. A. Leaving the S. Court, we next enter the North Court, devoted to Italian art, comprising numerous original sculptures of the Italian Renaissance. Over the S. doorway is placed a marble *Cantoria or singing 19* 292 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. gallery from the church of S. Maria Novella at Florence , by Bac- cio d'Agnolo (about 1500). East Section. The following are the most noteworthy objects in this part of the court. Several works by Michael Angela and his school , including an unfinished statuette of St. Sebastian and a *Cupid (guaranteed by documents) by the master himself, and a statue of Jason, probably executed by a pupil. — *Christ in the sepulchre (bought for lOOOi.), Delivering the Keys to St. Peter, two bas-reliefs by Donatello. — Life-size figure of the Virgin, with worshippers, formerly the tympanum of a doorway at S.Maria della Misericordia, Venice, attributed to JSarfoiom?neoJBwon (15th cent.) — Tabernacle, ascribed to Desiderlo da Settignano, a pupil of Do- natello. — Relief in marble, with portrait of a man, by Matteo Civi- tale. — Altar or shrine of a female saint, from Padua, by a pupil of Donatello. — An ancient Roman Column. — *Large Chimney- piece by Desiderlo da Settignano. — *Fragments from the Tomb of Gaston de Foix, by Agostino Busti (dated 1523). — Chimney-piece from the palace of the Rusconi family at Como. — Tabernacle from the church of S. Giacomo at Fiesole, by Andrea Ferrucci (c. 1490). — *Bronze busts of Popes Alexander VIII. and Inno- cent X. , attributed to Bernini. — In the cases are Italian bronzes of the 14-17th centuries. In the 1st case are the famous *Martelli P)ronze, a mirror -cover "hy Donatello , and four beautiful bronze Candlesticks from Florence (late 15th cent.). On a screen is a bronze bas-relief of the Entombment by Donatello. — Among the admirable busts of the early Renaissance in this part of the court are : *Giov. di San Miniato , by Antonio Rossellino , signed and dated 1456 , with strongly marked characteristics ; Portrait of a man, a vigorous work of the school of Donatello; *Marble bust of a Roman emperor , crowned with laurel, a masterpiece of the Lombard school, of extraordinarily careful execution. — Against the E. wall is a cast of a Singing Gallery by Luca della Robbia (1432-38), originally in the Cathedral of Florence. The E. Arcade contains a collection of European tapestry and textile fabrics, including the superb *Sion Cope, from the monastery of Sion at Isleworth fp. 330), English embroidery of the 13th century. At the N. end of the court are the tribune and the high-altar of the conventual church of S. Chiara at Florence, the latter by Leo- nardo del Tasso (about 1520). — Near this chapel are models of certain of the best examples of architectural ornament in Italy: portion of the Borgia Apartment in the Vatican; portion of the Villa Madama on Monte Mario, Rome ; the great 'bancone' in the Sala del Cambio, Perugia; the Chapel of St. Peter Martyr in S. Eustorgio, Milan; the Chapel of St. Catherine in S. Maurizio, Milan ; and part of a room in the Palazzo Macchiavelli, Florence. West Suction. Collection of glazed terracotta works, some at- tributed to Luca and Andrea della Bobbin of Florence (15- 16th cent), 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 293 Those in white or uncoloured enamel are the oldest, while the coloured pieces date from the first decade of the 16th century. Among the most interesting specimens are twelve *Medallions re- presenting the months, ascribed to Luca della Robbia; large me- dallion executed by Luca della Robbia for the Loggia de' Pazzi, with the arms of King Rene of Anjou in the centre; Adoration of the Magi, with a portrait of Perugino Qooking over the shoulder of the king in the green robe and turban) ; Virgin and Child , by Andrea della Robbia. — Collection of Florentine terracotta busts, one of a *Lady, attributed to Donatello, and one of Savonarola (burned at Florence in 1498). Terracotta bas-reliefs, being studies for three of the reliefs on the pulpit of Benedetto da Maiano at Sta. Croce, Flo- rence (^p. 289). — *Sketch in stucco for one of the panels of the sing- ing boys on the singing gallery executed by Luca della Robbia for Florence Cathedral (^p. 292). — Case containing small models in wax and terracotta by Italian sculptors of the 16th cent., including twelve ascribed to Michael Angelo. — Extensive collection of Italian Majolica , one of the most famous pieces being a plateau with a portrait of Pietro Perugino. — This court also contains examples of Italian art in carved furniture, tarsia work, etc. In fact it now re- presents the Italian section of the Museum. Part of the West Arcade (see also p. 291) is occupied by a valuable collection of Musical Instruments : Harpsichord which be- longed to Handel ; German finger-organ, said to have once belonged to Martin Luther ; Spinet of pear-tree wood, carved and adorned with ebony, ivory, lapis lazuli, and marble, by Annibale de* Rossi of Milan (1577) ; Virginal of richly gilt leather, stated to have been the property of Elizabeth of the Palatinate; Harpsichord inscribed 'Hieronymus Bononiensis faciebat, Romse MDXXI'. — Here also is a collection of Hispano-Moresque ware, including a *Vase from Malaga, and other specimens of great beauty and rarity. The North Arcade contains Italian and other glass vessels, an- tique pottery, terracotta figurines from Tanagra, etc. — *Terra- cotta figures of Italo- Greek workmanship (B. C. 200), found near Canosa in S. Italy. The Fernery, which forms a pleasant object at the windows of this arcade, was fitted up to enable the art-students to draw from plants at all seasons. To the W. of the North Court are three Rooms, formerly occupied by the Art Library. The first two of these are mainly devoted to Italian Woodwork and Furniture, including several fine marriage coffers ('cassoni'). The second room also contains two cases with specimens of Spanish Art. In the third room are some ancient Mural Decorations from Puteoli, and a ceiling painted in tempera from a house at Cremona (15th cent.). From the last-mentioned room a Corridor leads to the Refresh- ment Rooms (p. 286). This passage contains a number of modern 294 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. marble statues and original models. Among these may be mentioned the Cupid and Pan of Holme Cardivell, and the busts by Bastianini, celebrated for his admirable imitations of the style of the 15th cent- ury. The windows contain interesting specimens of stained glass, partly from German churches. At the end of the corridor is a highly decorated staircase leading to the Keramic Gallery (p. 300). On this staircase is a memorial tablet with portrait of Sir Henry Cole, K.C.B. (d. 1882), the first Director of the Museum. We turn to the left into the — West Corridor , which contains part of the Museum Collection of Furniture^ including specimens of French, Spanish, Flemish, German, English, and Dutch workmanship. The walls are covered with wood-carvings, tapestries, and paintings. From the S. end of the W. Corridor we enter the Soutli Corridor, containing the admirable ^Collection of Casts from the Antique, which are displayed to great advantage (special catalogue 6d.). They include reproductions of several works of interest rarely met with in collections of this kind. — At the E. end of this corridor is the staircase to the Art Library (see p. 291). From the S.E. corner of the S. Corridor we enter the hall devoted to * Tapestry and Textile Fabrics (also accessible from the Archi- tectural Court, see p. 289). This hall is divided into three sections. Among its finest contents are three pieces of Flemish tapestry, dat- ing from 1507, with scenes from the Visions of Petrarch's 'Trionfl' (on the W. wall); one of a set of hangings representing the Virtues and Vices, remarkable for the preservation of the colouring; an ex- quisite example of Flemish tapestry in silk and gold and silver thread, representing the Adoration of the Infant Saviour. This room also contains some Italian cassoni (p. 293) aivd other furniture. We now return through the S. Corridor and the W. Corridor to the North -West Corridor, which contains another part of the col- lection of furniture and also some old state-carriages and sedan chairs. At its N.W. corner is a door opening on Exhibition Road, on the opposite side of which are the Exhibition Galleries (p. 300) and the India Museum (p. 301). AVe turn to the right into the — North Corridor, which contains a unique collection of Persian earthenware, tiles, carpets, works in metal, etc., as well as many rare specimens of Saracenic workmanship. Here are a '*Mimbar', or pulpit, from a mosque at Cairo, of carved wood inlaid with ivory and ebony, and still bearing traces of painting (1480), and a large brass lamp for a mosque inlaid with silver (15th cent.). In the angle between the N. and N.W. Corridor is a Room from Damascus (1756), fitted up with its original carpets and furniture, on the walls are Arabic inscriptions. Adjacent are some lattice windows (Meshvebiyehs) from Cairo. At the E. end of the N. corridor is a broad flight of steps lead- ing to the upper floor, which contains the — *National Gallery of British Art, a valuable and representative 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 295 collection of English paintings. It includes the collections given or bequeathed by Messrs. Sheepshanks^ Parsons, Forster, W. Smith, and others, and the pictures lent by the Royal Academy, It also contains the famous Cartoons of Raphael, formerly in Hampton Court. Before entering any of the rooms, we notice, at the top of the stairs by which we have just ascended, some original cartoons of the frescoes in the Houses of Parliament, and an original model of a group of the Graces, by Baily. Kooms I and II contain a collection of paintings and sculpture, lent by the Royal Academy and purchased under the terms of the Chantrty Bequest. Room I. To the left: J. M. StrudwicTc, A Golden Thread ; /. S. Sar- gent, Carnation, Lily, Rose; W. Q. Orchardson, Kapoleon on board the Bellerophon; Vicat Gvle, The Pool of Loudon; /. Brett, Britannia's realm; G. F. WaUs, Psyche; E. Pai-ton, Waning of the year; A. G. Gow, Crom- well at Dunbar; J. W. Waterhouse, The magic circle; W. Hilton, Christ crowned with thorns ; F. Bramlcy, Hopeless Dawn; J//red Pa/-«o«5, Land- scape (on a screen). In the centre of the room: "Athlete struggling with a python, in bronze, by Sir Fred. Leighton, President of the Royal Academy ; Teucer, by Hamo Thorney croft. — We now turn to the left into — Room II. W. F. Yeamcs , Amy Robsart; /. Collier, Last voyage of Henry Hudson; H. Herkomer, Found; '■£. J. Poynter, Visit to iEsculapius ; *//. Herkomer, Charterhouse Chapel; /. Seymour Lucas, After Culloden; Colin Hunter, Their only harvest; W. Hunt, Dog in the manger; F. Dicksee, Harmony; W. L. Wyllie, Toil, glitter, grime, and wealth on a flowing tide; M. Stone, 'II y en a toujours un autre"; Veil. Prinsep, Ayesha. In the centre: Folly, by E. Onslow Ford; The Prodigal Son, in marble, by W. Colder Marshall; Pandora, in marble, by //. Bates. Room III. Collection of paintings lent by Lord Pelham Clinton Hope. To the left: 3. Rembrandt, Christ on the Sea of Galilee; 8. Adriaan van de Velde, The Farm; 10, 13. W. van Mieris, Vegetable seller; 11. Jan Steen, Interior; "^15. Gerard Don. Girl with poultry; 24. A. Cuyp, Herdsman and Cows; 25. J. Steen, Village feast; *34. P. de Hooghe, Interior; 36. M. Hob- bema. Landscape; 38. G. Metsu, Lady reading a letter; *54. J. van der Meer, Interior; *55. G. Terburg, Soldiers drinking; 58. G. Melsu, Gentleman writ- ing; *6i. D. Teniers, Soldiers; 64. Eembrandt, Lady and Gentleman; *67. D. Teniers, Soldiers; 70. G. Terburg, Ofticer with trumpeter; 73. Jan Steen, Christening; *74. G. Terburg, Lady playing a guitar; *76. Van Ostade, Cot- tage yard; 79. A''. Maas , Woman peeling apples. On three screens is a collection of *Wat£r-colouk Drawings , chiefly of the modern English school, given by the daughters of the late Sir W. Gardner Prescott Hewett. Rooms IV., v., & VI. contain the ''Historical Collection of British Wa- ter-colour Drawings, of jireat interest to the student and lover of art. Room IV. contains specimens of the works of P. Sandby, T. Gains- borough, G. Barret, N. Pocock, M. A. Rooker, T. Hearne, T. Girtin, J. R. Cozens, F. Wheatley, T. Rowlandson, W. Payne, T. Malton, A. Pugin, H. Ed- ridge, J. M. W. Turner, J. Cristall, Sir A. W. Callcott, J. Varley, G. F. Robson, J. S. Cotman, G. Barret jun., and others. Room V. includes specimens of D. Cox, Copley Fielding, F. Mackenzie, S. Prout, P. de Wint, J. Crome, J. Linnell, R. R. Reinagle, F. L. T. Francia, J. Glover, W. Harell. Room VI. is hung with works by R. Caldccott, R. Doyle, W. H. Hunt, D. Roberts, W. C. Stanfield, G. Catlermole, J. Holland, J. JVash, F. W. ToiJ- ham, E. Duncan, J. F. Lewis, W. L. Leitch, F. Tayler, L. Haghe, T. M. Richardson, S. Cooper, F. Walker, Rossetti, etc. In the middle of the room is a Mounted Indian, attacked by a serpent, a bronze group by Thos. Brock. — We now return to complete our inspection of — RoomV. FoESTEK Collection. On the walls: Illustrations of Douglas Jerrold's 'Men of Character', by W. M. Thackeray ; paintings and draw- ings by Stanfield, Turner, Cattermole , Stothard , Cipriani, and Gains- 296 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. borough. ~ Frans Hals., Man with a jug; * Gainsborough., His daughters; iJeyreo/ds, Portrait; Boxall, Walter Savage Landor ; FritJi^ Charles Dickens; ''Maclise, Macready as 'Werner"; MacUse, Scene from Jonson's 'Every Man in his Humour'', with portrait of Forster; Waits, Thomas Carlyle; Wynfield, Death of Cromwell. On the screen: Drawings by Maclise, Leech, Thackeray, Landseer, and Count d'Orsay. The glass-cases in the middle of the room contain autographs of Charles II., Cromwell, Ad- dison, Burns, Pope, Johnson, Byron, Keats, etc. ; the MSS. of several of Dickens's novels, including the unfinished 'Edwin Drood', with the last words he wrote ; three sketch-books of Da Vinci, which the master used to carry at his belt; chair, desk, and Malacca cane of Oliver Goldsmith. Small model of a curious Chinese Temple, with a grotto. — The door to the right leads to the Keramic Gallery (p. 300) ; that on to the left to — Room VII. Dtce Collection. Pictures. To the left: Fes<, Saul and the Witch of Endor; Ascribed to Janssens^ Dr. Donne; '-Halls, Edmund Kean as Richard III.; WovUdge, Garrick as Tancred; Unknown Artist, Kemble as Coriolanus; Loutherbourg, Garrick as Don John; Richardson the Elder, Portrait of Pope; Utiknown Artist, Mrs. Siddons. To the right: O. Romney, Serena; Unknown Painter, John Milton; Reynolds, Portrait. The room also contains books (fine editions of the classics), drawings, and miniatures. — The door to the right leads into the reading-room of the Dyce and Forster Library (open daily, 10 to 4, 5, 6, or 10), containing 18,000 vols, and a collection of drawings in portfolios (catalogue on the table). Room VIII. Dtce Collection. Books, Engravings, and Autographs of eminent men. — We now return through Rooms VII, IV, HI, II, to the NoKTH Gallery, or — **Raphael Room, containing the marvellous cartoons executed by the great painter for Pope Leo X., in 1515 and 1516, as copies for tapestry to be executed at Arras in Flanders. Two sets of tapestry were made from the drawings, one of which, in a very dilapidated condition, is pre- served in the Vatican; the other, after passing through the hands of many royal and private personages, is now in the Old Museum at Berlin. The cartoons were originally ten in number, but three, representing the Stoning of St. Stephen, the Conversion of St. Paul, and St. Paul in prison at Philippi, have been lost (represented here by copies). The car- toons rank among Raphael's very finest works, particularly in point of conception and design. The cartoons here are as follows, beginning to the right on entering: — *Christ''s Charge to Peter. Death of Ananias. Peter and John healing the Lame Man. Paul and Barnabas at Lystra. Then, on the opposite wall: — ^Elymas the Sorcerer struck with blindness. Paul preaching at Athens. *The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. The room also contains copies of other works by Raphael and a very fine *Altarpiece Qent by the Duke of Castro) which he painted for the Convent of St. Anthony at Perugia about 1505 (contemporary with the Ansidei Madonna, now in the National Gallery, p. 158). At the E. end of the hall we turn to the right, and reach the three rooms occupied by the Sheepshanks Collection. Room A. To the left: Leslie, *114. Florizel and Perdita; *171. Red- grave, Ophelia weaving garlands; Leslie, *109. Scene from the 'Taming of the Shrew'; 115. Autolycus; 118. 'Le Malade imaginaire'; 111. 'Who can this be?' 127. Portia; 117. 'Les Femmes savantes'; 122. Queen Catharine and Patience; 125. The toilette; 116. 'Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme'; 112. 'Who can this be from?'; 128. Griselda; 172. Redgrave, Bolton Abbey; 59. Cope, II Penseroso ; 132. Leslie, Sancho Panza; 166. Newton, Portia and Bassanio ; 210. Turner, East Cowes Castle, Isle of Wight ; 58. Cope, L'Allegro ; 11. Callcolt, Dort (a sunny meadow); 170. Redgrave, Throwing oS her weeds; 220. Wilkie, The refusal ('Duncan Gray'); 213. t/wtHS, Italian mother teaching her child the tarantella; 208. Turner, Venice; 74. Frith, Honey- 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 297 wood introducing the bailiffs to Miss Richmond as his friends ; 212. Uwins, Suspicion; 2(y7. Turner, Line-fishing ofF Hastings; 10. CallcoU, Slender and Anne Page; 209. Turner, St. Michaers Mount, Cornwall; 223. Webster, Contrary winds ; Collins, 30. Bayham Abbey, 31. Seaford, Coast of Sussex ; 187. G. Smith, Children gathering wild flowers; 71. Eastlake, Italian con- tadina and her children; 2S. Collins, Hall Sands, Devonshire; 113. Leslie, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman (comp. p. 181); 108. Zee, Distant view of Windsor; 211. Ttirner , Vessel in distress off Yarmouth ; 81. Horsley, The contrast, Youth and Age; *165. P. Nasmyth^ Sir P. Sidney's oak. Penshurst; 501. Wilson, Italian river scene. — The cases in the centre of the room contain a collection of fine enamels and miniatures. Boom B. To the left: 61. Creswick, Scene on the Tummel, Perthshire ; 237. Morland, The reckoning; 895. Zawce, Fruit; 126. ITi/aon, Coast-scene ; 1403. Morland , Interior of a stable ; Gainsborough , 136. Daughters of George III.; 91. Queen Charlotte; Loutherbourg , Landscape; Linnell, 1407. Driving cattle; 134. Milking time. 246. Evening. Mulready , 162. Portrait of a little girl; 152. Portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 141. First love; 298 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 143. Open your mouth and shut your eyes ! 5 147. The sailing-match ; 144. Brother and sister; 148. The butt — shooting a cherry; 140. Giving a bite; 139. The fight interrupted; 138. Seven ages of man; 142. Interior with portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 145. Choosing the wedding gown. 107. Zee, Gathering seaweed; *222. Webster^ Village choir; -103. G. Land- seer, Temptation of Andrew Marvell ; 232. Gveswick^ The Land's End, Corn- wall; 15. Callcott, Sunny morning; 197. Stothard, Shakspeare's principal characters; 219. iVebster, Sickness and health; 62. Creswick, A summer's afternoon; 167. Redgrave, Cinderella; 110. Leslie, Characters from the 'Merry Wives of Windsor'; 233. Danhy, Mountain scene in Wales; 225. Wilkie, The broken jar; ''189. Stanfield , Market-boat on the Scheldt; 221. Webster, Returning from the fair; 188. Stanfield, Near Cologne; 220. Webster, Going to the fair. — The frames in the centre contain several hundred drawings and sketches by Mulready. Boom C. To the left: 4. Barret^ Landscape; 165. Glover, Landscape; 155. MacGallum, Sherwood Forest; '■'201. De Wint, Woody landscape ; 242. Howard, Peasants of Subiaco; 1827. Lee and Cooper, Wooded Glen; 258. Be Wint, Cornfield; 249. Moaamy, Old East India Wharf at London Bridge ; 220. Ward, Bulls fighting; 236. Crome, On the skirts of the forest; *190. 5<art^eW, Sands near Boulogne; *88. E. Landseer, The drover's departure, a scene in the Grampians; 176. Roberts, Gate at Cairo; 9. Callcott, Brisk gale; E. Landseer, 96. Sancho Panza and Dapple; 92. The 'Twa Dogs'; 101. Young roe-deer and rough hounds; '-'93. The old shepherd's chief mourner ('one of the most perfect poems or pictures', saJ^s Mr. Ruskin, 'which modern times have seen'); *87. Highland breakfast; 94. A Jack in office; 102. The eagle's nest; 90. A fireside party; 91. 'There's no place like home'; 89. The dog and the shadow; 95. Tethered rams; 100. Comical dogs; 99. Suspense. Webster, A village school; 234. Chalon, Hastings — fishing-boats making for shore in a breeze; iQ^i,. Mulready Junior, IniQTxov^ 64. Grome, Woody landscape. — The frames contain drawings by Mulready. On a stand is a collection of enamels and miniatures. Hoom r. This room is devoted chiefly to a collection of paintings and studies by John Constable, R. A., given bv Mr. Sheepshanks and Miss Isabel Constable. To the left: '■'34. Dedliam Mill, Essex; "33. Salisbury Cathedi-al; =^35. Hampstead Heath; 1632. Water-mill at Gillingham; 1631. Cottage in the cornlleld. To the right : ~38. Water-meadows near Salis- bury ; '*37. Boat-building near Flatford Mill; 1630. Near Hampstead Church; *36. Hampstead Heath. — On five screens and on the walls are sketches by the same artist. Between the exits into the next gallery is an oil painting of an old English homestead by R. Redgrave, R. A. On one of Ihe screens are sketches by the same artist. In the adjacent long Galleries is the superb **Collection of French marquetry and other furniture, porcelain, miniatures, bron- zes, paintings, and sculptures of the 18th cent., bequeathed to the Museum by Mr. John Jones (d. 1882), officially valued at 250,000i. Special handbook, with numerous illustrations, Is. The Left Gallery contains furniture , nearly all of the best period of French art in this department. Among the most in- teresting pieces are an Escritoire a toilette, in light-coloured wood, whi(5h is said to have belonged to Marie Antoinette , and was pro- bably executed by David Rontgen; two escritoires by the same,- a writing-table and a small round table with Sevres plaque , both belonging to Marie Antoinette (the two valued at upwards of 5000i.) ; cabinet of black boule (purchased by Mr. Jones for 3500i.) ; a mar- quetry cabinet inlaid with Sevres plaques, etc. In one of the cen- tral cases is one of the fifty copies of the Portland Vase (p. 262) made by Wedgwood. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 299 Right Gallery. Collection of Sevres, Oriental, Dresden, and Chelsea porcelain. Among these may be mentioned the 'gros bleu' Sevres vases, the green porphyry vases, the 'Rose du Barry' service, etc. — Collection of jewellery and miniatures, including *Portraits of Louis XIV. hy Petitot. — The fine collection of snuff-boxes include many with miniatures by Isabey, Petitot, Blaremberghe, and others. — Sculptures, among which are busts of Marie Antoinette and the Princess de Lamballe , in the style of Houdon. — At the N. end of this gallery is a magnificent *Armoirc, with inlaid work by Andre Boule or BuJd^ the court cabinet-maker of Louis XIV. — The pictures on the walls include examples of Gainsborough, Land- seer, Linnell, Mulready, and other English artists. The foreign works are mostly school-copies, but there is a genuine, signed work by Crivelli (Madonna). The lunettes in the galleries contain decorative paintings to illustrate the different branches of Art Studies. At the S. end of the Gallery is a staircase leading down to the E. section of the S. Court (p. 291). We now return to Room D., and turn (to the left") into the Gallery, which separates the N. from the S. Court, passing Leigh- ton's great fresco described at p. 290. The balcony on our right, from which we look down into the N. court, is the singing gallery, mentioned at p. 291. Opposite it is the *Prince Consort Gallery, which contains a rich selection of small mediaeval works of art, ar- ranged in glass-cases. The case under the archway contains small plaques and reliquaries in enamel. The next case, standing in advance of the others, holds an- cient enamelled works, the most important of which are a *Shrine in the form of a church with a dome (Rhenish Byzantine of 12th cent., bought for 2142^.), a *Triptych of charapleve enamel (German, 13th cent.), and an *Altar-cross of Rhenish Byzantine work with enamel medallions (12th cent.) The following cases contain ex- amples of ancient and modern enamels , especially some fine Limoges Enamels of the 15th, IGth, and 17th centuries. The most valuable objects are the oval *Portrait of the Cardinal de Lorraine (bought for 2000L); the large * Casket, enamelled on plates of silver, with a band of dancing figures, ascribed to Jean Limosin (16th cent.); a gold*Mis3al Case, with translucent enamels, said to have belonged to Queen Henrietta Maria (Italian, ca. 1580) ; and a small *Cup and cover, decorated with translucent enamel, known as 'email de plique ?i jour'. One case is devoted to English enamels (made at Bilston and Battersea). To the right, at the end of the gallery, are three cases containing specimens of Bookbinding. The W. portion of the Gallery contains a few unimportant oil-paintings, and also a fresco of Perugino, successfully transferred to canvas. The Gallery of the Architectural Court, reached by a few steps at the S. end of the Prince Consort Gallery, contains the collection of Orna- mental Ironwork, of Italian, French, German, and English origin: bal- 300 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. conies, window-gratings, lamps, etc. — Five iron screens designed by Jean Tijou, tliough long attributed to Huntington Sbaw of Nottingham, for Hampton Court Palace (about IBQ'^, see p. 327). The *K:eramic Gallery, entered from Room V. of the picture galleries (p. 295) , contains an admirahle collection of earthen- ware, porcelain, and stoneware. We first reach the collection of English pottery of the 17th and 18th cent.; Wedgwood ware; Chelsea, Worcester, and Derby porcelain ; enamelled earthenware. The following cases contain the Collection of English Pottery given to the Museum by Lady Charlotte Schreiber, including fine exam- ples of most of the older wares. This is succeeded by a collection of German and Flemish stoneware, including several large German stoves. Adjoining are specimens of French earthenware of the 16th cent. , including 5 pieces of the famous Henri-Deux ware (in a small case by itself), said to have been made either at Oiron or St. Porchaire ; choice collection of Palissy ware ; Sevres porcelain ; Dresden china ; Italian porcelain, including 4 pieces of the rare *Florentine porcelain of the 16th cent., probably the earliest por- celain made in Europe; some Hispano-Moresco (Spanish) ware. The windows on the right , in grisaille , designed by W. B. Scott, represent scenes connected with the history of pottery. From the opposite windows a good view is obtained of the new buildings of the Museum. [At present the examples of art manufactures of modern date (1851 and onwards) are deposited in the Exhibition Galleries.] At the W. end of the Keramic Gallery is the staircase mentioned at p. 294, leading to the Refreshment Rooms. Opposite the W. entrance of the Museum, in Exhibition Road is the entrance to the Exhibition Galleries (p. 283), which contain- various objects for which there is no room in the Museum (adm. free, daily, from 10 to 4, 5, or 6). We first enter the S. Gallery, containing the Collection of Elec- trotypes and other Reproductions of Works of Art, part of which is exhibited upstairs. Other rooms upstairs contain the Collections of Modern Objects and Naval Models. On the ground-floor we next reach the Collection of Machinery and Inventions, including many interesting objects from the late Patent Office Museum, now in- corporated with the South Kensington Museum. Among the chief objects of interest from the Patent Museum are the following, which are scattered throughout the galleries. The original Hydraulic Press, made by Joseph Bramah and patented in 1795. — ""Engine of Bell's Comet, the first steamboat that ever plied in European waters. Bell's ingenious project for applying steam-power to navigation was received with neglect by the various European governments, hut at once excited attention in the United States, where the first ex- periments were made in 1805. It was not till 1812 that the Comet was advertised to ply on the Clyde for the 'conveyance of passengers and goods'. — ^Stephenson's first locomotive, the Rocket, constructed to compete in the trial of locomotives on the Liverpool and Manchester Railway in 1829, where it gained the prize of 500L — Adjacent, '■Puffing Billy\ the 27. INDIA MUSEUM. 301 first locomotive engine ever constructed, in use at the Wylam Collieries from 1813 to 1862. — The Sans Pareil, by Hawksworth of Darlington, another competitor at the above-mentioned trial. — Cornish Pumping Engine, formerly in operation at Soho near Birmingham, to which James Watt in 1777 applied for the first time his separate condenser and air- pump (patented 1769). — Hislop's Winding and Pumping Engine, patented 1790 and erected for raising coals about 1795. — Watt's first Sun and Planet Engine, erected at Soho in 1788. The Historical Collection of Telegraphic Apparatus, beginning with Bain's chemical telegraph, the first instrument of the kind ever used in England (1846), is interesting. Here also are the electrical machine used by Wheatstone in his experiments, a collection of chronometers, and other scientific instruments. Tbe visitor should also notice the admirable models of beam-engines by James Watt, worked by compressed air 5 a model of an atmospheric engine worked by steam ('shewing tlie state of the development of the ateam engine in 1730, in which form it remained until 1760 when J. Watt commenced his improvements ) ; and two model fire-engines by Coates, copied from engines by Merryweather and Shand, Mason, & Co. Some of the machinery is iiaually shown in motion. Beyond the MacMnery Department, in the S. part of the W. Gal- lery, we reach the Museum of Economic Fish Culture^ where a State Barge, 270 years old, is exhibited. The W. Gallery is here intersected by the new Imperial Institute Road (p. 282), which we cross in order to reach the N. half of the gallery, containing the Collections of Scientific Apparatus used in Education and Research, comprising much that is of great value and interest to students. Here may be seen the Clock of Glaston- bury Abbey, constructed by one of the monks in 1325, and showing the phases of the moon. Dover striking clock of 1348. Clock with stone weights, from Aymestrey Church, Herefordshire. — Here also is the Anthropometric Laboratory^ established by Mr. F.Galton. A new gallery, or series of rooms, 900 ft. long, connecting the Eastern Galleries , or Indian Section , of the South Kensington Museum with the Western Galleries, has recently been constructed. The four rooms at the W. end contain some of the science collec- tions and are now open to the public. The Chinese, Japanese, Persian, and Saracenic collections of the South Kensington Museum are now being arranged in the other rooms, which will probably be opened in Nov. , 1894. Only the upper floor of this cross-gallery is occupied in this way. The *India Museum (PI. R, 9), in the E. Exhibition Gallery [comp. p. 283), was placed in 1880 under the management of the authorities of South Kensington Museum, who have considerably extended and improved it, so that it now ranks among the most interesting exhibitions in London. The museum is now officially known as the Indian Section of South Kensington Museum. It is open free, daily, Sundays excepted, from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 according to the season. The new entrance is in the Imperial Institute Road, to the right (E.) of the Imperial Institute. 302 27. INDIA MUSEUM. The Entrance Hall contains original and reproduced examiiles of Hin- doo architecture, including the stone front of a house from Bulandshahr; the facade of a shop in Cawnpore; the large facades of two dwelling-houses from Ahmedabad, in teak wood, carved and painted (17th cent.); and various carved windows, doorways, balconies, etc. In the centre of the hall are a brass model of the Palace of the Winds, Jeypore, a wooden model of the Kutb Minar, near Delhi, and a copy of a tomb in Mooltan tile-work. We next pass the staircase, ascending to the right to the upper floor, and enter the Lower Gallery. — First Section. On the walls, Indian car- pets. Plaster casts of architectural details and sculptures. Architectural models. Portions of stone columns from a temple at Ajmir, destroyed in 1200. — Second Section. Cases with figure-models of Indian divinities, handicraftsmen, agriculturalists, etc. On the walls, Persian carpets and cotton carpets from the Deccan. — Third Section. Embroidery, brocades, state carpels and canopies; peasant dresses from the Punjab, turbans, caftans. — Fourth Section. Embroidered shawls from Delhi; garments decorated with beetles' wings ; fine muslins from Dacca. On the walls, em- broidered coverlets and printed chintzes. — Fifth Section. Saddles and trappings. Printed cottons. On the wall, embroidered tapestry representing the great battle between the Pandavas and the Kauravas in the Indian epic, the Mahabharata (18th cent.). We now reach another staircase, at the foot of which are cases with costumes , including a royal dress from Lucknow. On the walls of the staircase are Indian sketches by George Landseer. At the head of the staircase we enter the Upper Gallery, in which are placed the collections of furniture, carvings, lacquer work, arms, pottery, jewellery, and bronzes. First Section. The first cases contain Indian works in metal, arranged according to countries. The most interesting are the brass vessels with reliefs from Thibet; the Bidri work from Purneah (in the N.W. Provinces); ^Objects in dark metal, damascened with silver, from the Deccan; bells from Burmah and Tanjore. Among the most valuable pieces are the large *Ewer, with enamels of Indian scenery, in Bidri work (on a separate stand); Samovar, of tinned copper, from Cashmere (18th cent.); 'Bowl and stand, in pierced silver, from Ahmedabad. Other cases contain Hindoo sacred figures, and brass and marble idols and vessels used in the worship of Buddha. Among these is a figure of 'Buddha as Siddhartha before his conversion taking part in a grand procession; also a Siamese figure of Buddha (19th cent.), of gilt metal decorated with glass spangles. Second Section. Jewellery and articles in jade, crystal, gold, and silver. Bracelets and necklaces; *'Ankus'', or elephant goad, of gold, richly ornamented with a spiral band of diamonds, and set with rubies (from Jeypore); necklace of tiger-claws; carvings in jade. Seven cases with the Treasure from the King of Burmah's Palace at Mandalay , captured in 1885-6. ^Silver filigree work. "Golden relics from Rangoon, discovered in levelling a Buddhist temple, consisting of three 'Charifas' or relic- shrines, a tassel, a leaf-scroll, a bowl with cover, a small cup. a helmet, and a jewelled belt (dated the year 846, i.e. 1484-85 A.D.). Buddhist Reli- quary in gold (said to date from B.C. 50), with interesting figures, re- sembling later Christian works. ^Ancient silver patera (4th cent. A.D.), found at Badakshan, with representations resembling those of classical antiques (worship of Bacchus?). Indian crystal vessels ; right, niellos; left, Kuftgari and enamel work. — By the walls: Ornaments of various kinds. Third Section. To the right and left of the entrance: Golden throne of the Maharajah Runjeet Singh, and Model illustrating the way in which Hindoo women wear jewellery. By the walls : Arms and Armour, arranged according to provinces; the swords in the cases to the left are particul- arly interesting. 'Howdah, with embroidered covering. ^Palanquin, of ivory, with representations of battles and beautiful ornamentation. Guns from Afghanistan. Bronze gun from Burmah, in the form of a dragon. On the wall to the right is the banner of Ayoub Khan, captured at the hattle of Candahar in 1880. — [Off this section, to the right, opens the new gallery mentioned at p. 301.] Fourth Section. Pottery and Tiles, arranged by provinces. The most 27. EROMPTON ORATORY. 303 important are the manufactures of the N.W. Provinces (left), Sinde fright), and Madras (left). On the walls, copies of the paintings in the Ajanla caves. In the centre of the room a collection of Patna glass and a large earthenware bowl used for storing grain. Fifth Section. Wood and Ivory Carvings, Mosaics, Lacquer Work, Musical Instruments, Carvings in Marble and Stone. — 4th Case to the left: Models of tombs and vessels in soapstone. — 5th Case on the right: Wind Instruments. — 4th, 6th, and 8th Cases to the right: Stringed In- struments. In the 8th case also are five conches and two 'nyastarangas'. — In the 7th case are Instruments of percussion. — In the centre: Tiger devouring an English officer, a barbaric mechanical toy that belonged to Tippoo Sahib. — To the left : Drums and other musical instruments. — In the centre: Bedstead from Theebaw's Palace, Mandalay; swinging bed- stead of painted wood, from Sinde. Steering Chair of carved teak wood from Burmah. — Wooden articles, lacquered, the ornamentation of which is more striking than the forms. — Wood and Ivory Mosaics, of great delicacy of execution. — Carvings in ivory and sandal-wood. — Furniture made of ivory and various kinds of wood. — Ou the walls is a fine col- lection of 274 water-colour drawings of Indian scenery, costumes, customs, etc., by Wm. Carpenter. On the left wall are hung fine old Persian carpets. The lofty building to the E. of South Kensington Museum is the Roman Catholic Church, of the Oratory, Brompton (see p. 52), the finest modern example in London of the style of the Italian Renaissance. The facade is rapidly approaching completion. The in- terior is remarkahle for its lofty marble columns and the domed ceiling of concrete vaulting. In the Lady Chapel are a superb altar and reredos, inlaid with precious stones, brought from Brescia and valued at 12,000i. The various chapels arc embellished with mo- saics and carvings, and it is intended to cover all the walls with mosaics. The choir-stalls are beautifully carved in Italian walnut, the floor is of rich marquetry, and the altar-rail is formed of glallo antico marble. The two seven-branched candlesticks of gilt bronze are accurate copies of the Jewish one on the Arch of Titus. 28. Belgravia. Chelsea. Kensal Green Cemetery. Chelsea Hospital. Royal Military Asylum. The southern portion of the West End, commonly known as Belgravia, and bounded by Hyde Park, tlie Green Park, Sloane Street, and Pimlico, consists of a number of handsome streets and squares (Belgrave Square, Eaton, Square, Grosvenor Place, etc.), all of which have sprung up within the last few decades. It derives its general name from Belgrave Square, the centre of West End pride and fashion. Like Tyburnia, to the N., and May fair to the E. of Hyde Park, it is one of the most fashionable quarters of the town. At Pimlico on the S.E. stands Victoria Station, the extensive West End terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and of the London and Brighton Railway (p. 34), whence Victoria Street, opened up not many years ago through a wilderness of purlieus, leads N.E. to Westminster ; Vauxhall Bridge Road S.E. 304 28. CHELSEA. to Vauxhall Bridge; Buckingham Palace Road and Commercial Road S.W. to Chelsea Bridge and Battersea Park (p. 306). On the left (N.) bank of the Thames, near Vauxhall Bridge, be- tween Chelsea and Westminster, stood Millhank Penitentiary^ built and arranged from designs by Jeremy Bentham (d. 1832). It was taken down in 1893, and the site is to be occupied partly by in- dustrial dwellings and partly by a building for the reception of the collection of modern paintings presented to the nation by Mr. Tate. Vauxhall Bridge, constructed by Walker in 1816, is 800 ft. long, and consists of nine iron arches. The river is crossed farther up by the Grosvenor Road Bridge , used for the various railways con- verging at Victoria Station, and by the Chelsea Tuspension Bridge, built in 1858 , both of which are at the E. end of Battersea Park (p. 312). — A little to the S. of Vauxhall Bridge is Kennington Oval (p. 47), a cricket-ground second only to Lord's in public favour and in interest, and in winter the scene of first class football matches. Chelsea, now a suburb of London, lies on the N. bank of the Thames, to the W. of Chelsea Suspension Bridge (PI. G, 18). For many ages before it was swallowed up, it was a country village, like Kensington, with many distinguished residents. It appears iu Domesday Book as Chelched, i.e. 'chalk hythe', or wharf. Mr. Loftie derives the name from chesl, meaning gravel, and eye, an island. Skirting the Thames between the suspension bridge and the new Battersea Bridge (PI. G, 10, 11 ; opened in 1891), is the Chelsea Embankment (jp. 115), on which, opposite Cheyne Row, is a Statue of Thomas Carlyle (d. 1881), by Boehm. The embankment passes the elegant Albert Suspension Bridge, and beyond Battersea Bridge leads to the site of Cremorne Gardens, so named from their original owner, Lord Cremorne, and formerly a very popular place of re- creation, but closed in 1877 and now covered with buildings. The extensive building on theN. bank of the Thames, a little to the W. of Chelsea Bridge, is Chelsea Hospital (PI. G, 18, 14), an institution for old and invalid soldiers, begun in the reign of Charles II. by Wren, on the site of a theological college (the name 'college' being sometimes still applied to the building), but not completed till the time of William and Mary. The hospital, consist- ing of a central structure flanked by two wings, and facing the river, accommodates 540 pensioners. In addition to these about 85,000 out- pensioners obtain relief, varying from 1 ^/^d. to 5s. a day, out of the in- vested funds of the establishment, which is also partly supported by a grant from Parliament. The annual expenses are about 28,000i. The centre of the quadrangle in front of the hospital is occu- pied by a bronze statue of Charles II., by Grinling Gibbons. The hospital (small fee to pensioner who acts as cicerone) contains a chapel with numerous flags, 13 French eagles, and an altarpiece representing the Ascension of Christ; the ceiling above the latter is by Seb.Ricci. In the dining-hall is an equestrian portrait of CharlesII., 28. CHELSEA. 305 by Verrio. Visitors may attend the services in the chapel on Sun., at 11 a.m. and 8.30 p.m. The gardens are open to the public. To the N. of the hospital lies the Eoyal Military Asylum or Duke of York's Military School (PL G, 13, 17), founded in 1801 by the Duke of York, an institution in which about 550 sons of sol- diers are annually maintained and educated. The building has a Doric portico. The school may be visited daily, from 10 to 4 ; Fri- day is perhaps the best day. — In Chelsea Bridge Road, near the hospital, are the largest and finest of all the Barracks for the Foot Guards, with accommodation for 1000 men. To the S.E., on part of the ornamental grounds of Chelsea Hospital, there stood in the reigns of George II. and George III. a place of amuse- ment named the Ranelagh, which was famous beyond any other place in London as the centre of the wildest and showiest gaiety. Banquets, masquerades, fetes, etc., were celebrated here in the most extravagant style. Kings and ambassadors, statesmen and literati, court beauties, ladies of fashion, and the demi-monde met and mingled at the Ranelagh as they now meet nowhere in the metropolis. Its principal building, the 'Rotunda', 185 ft. in diameter, not unlike in external appearance to the present Albert Hall, was erected in 1740, by William Jones. Horace Walpole describes it as 'a vast amphitheatre, finely gilt, painted, and illuminated, into which everybody that loves eating, drinking, staring, or crowding la admitted for twelve pence'. This haunt of pleasure-seekers was closed in 1805, and every trace of it has long been obliterated. To the S.W. of the hospital lies the Chelsea Botanic Garden, presented by Sir Hans Sloane to the Society of Apothecaries, on condition that 50 new varieties of plants grown in it should be an- nually furnished to the Royal Society, until the number so pre- sented amounted to 2000. It is famed for its fine cedars. Tickets of admission (gratis) may be obtained in Apothecaries' Hall (p. 117). *Clielsea Old Ckurch (St. Luke's), which stands by the river, at the corner of Cheyne Walk and Church Street (PL G, 1), is one of the most interesting churches in London. It was originally built in the reign of Edward II. (1307-27), but in its present form it dates mainly from about 1660, though some older work remains in the chancel and its side-chapels. Among the numerous monuments it contains are those of Lord Bray and his son (153i)); several of the Lawrence family, mentioned by H.Kingsley in 'The Ilillyars and the Burtons'; the sumptuous monument of Lord and Lady Dacre (1594-5); the Duchess of Northumberland (d. 1555; mother-in-law of Lady Jane Grey and grandmother of Sir Philip Sidney); Lady Jane Cheyne (d. 1669), a large monument by Bernini, the only work now remaining that he did for England; and Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753; see below). Sir Thomas More built the chapel on the S. side of the chancel, and erected a monument to himself, which is now in the chancel. In all probability his remains are in this church, except his head , which is at Canterbury (see Baedeker'' s Great Britain). In the churchyard are buried, though their monuments have disappeared, Shadwell, poet laureate (d. 1692), Henry Samp- son Woodfall, printer of the celebrated Letters of Junius (d. 1805), Baedkker, London. 9th Edit. 20 306 28. KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY. and Jolin Cavalier, the Huguenot leader (d. 1740). In the church are the 'Vinegar Bihle', Foxe's Book of Martyrs (2 vols.), and two other books, chained to a desk. The keys of the church may be had from the Bev. R. H. Davies, 178 Oakley Street. The past associations of Chelsea are full of interest. Sir Thomas More resided in Chelsea, near the river and Battersea Bridge, in Beaufort House, which has now disappeared, and where he was often visited by Eras- mus. Sir Hans Sloane, lord of the manor of Chelsea, lived at the manor house there, and made the collection which formed the beginning of the British Museum (see p. 238). His name is commemorated in Sloane Street, Sloane Square etc. Bishop Atterbury, Dean Swift, and Dr. Arbuthnot all resided in Church Street. Sir Richard Steele resided not far off. Mrs. Somerville lived at Chelsea Hospital, where her husband was physician. The un- pretending Cheyne Row for many years contained the residence of Thomas Carlyle (No. 24, formerly No. 5; indicated by a memorial tablet), who died here in 1881 ^ and Leigh Hunt lived in Upper Cheyne Row (No. 4). George Eliot (Mrs. Cross; d. 1880) lived and died in Cheyne Walk on the embankment. In front of No. 7 Cheyne Walk, the former residence of D, G. Rossetti (d. 1882), a bust of the painter and poet by Ford Madox Brown, has been erected. Turner, the great landscape-painter, died in obscure lodgings at 119 Cheyne Walk in 1851. A little to the W. was Little Chelsea, now West Brompton, where the famous Earl of Shaftesbury of the 'Characteristics' resided in Shaftes- bury House. This mansion, in which Locke wrote part of his 'Essay on the Human Understanding', and Addison parts of the 'Spectator', has been converted into a workhouse. The manufacture of Chelsea China was carried on in a pottery in Church Street, long since removed. Eensal Green Cemetery forms an exception to most of the ce- meteries of London, which are uninteresting, owing to the former English custom of burying eminent men in churches. It lies on the N.W. side of London and is most easily reached by omnibus from Edgware Road. We may also travel by the Metropolitan Railway to Netting Hill or Westbourne Park Station (p. 36), each of which, is about 3/4 M. to the S. of the cemetery; or by the North London Railway to Kensal Rise Station (p. 33), V2 M. to the N. Kensal Green Cemetery, laid out in 1832, covers an area of about 60 acres, and contains about seventy thousand graves. It is divided into a consecrated portion for members of the Church of England, and an un- consecrated portion for dissenters. Most of the tombstones are plain upright slabs, but in the upper part of the cemetery, particularly on the principal path leading to the chapel, there are several monuments hand- somely executed in granite and marble, some of which possess con- siderable artistic value. Among the eminent people interred here are — Brunei, the engineer-, Sidney Smith, the author; Mulready, the painter; Kemble, the actor; Sir Charles Eastlake, the painter and historian of art; Buckle, the historian ; Leigh Hunt, the essayist ; Sir John Ross, the arctic navigator; Thackeray, the novelist ; John Leech, the well-known illustrator of 'Punch'; Gibson, the sculptor; Mme. Tietjens, the great singer ; Charles Mathews, the actor; John Owen, the social reformer. Adjoining the grave of the last is the Reformers' Memorial. — Cardinals Wiseman and Manning are interred in the Roman Catholic Cemetery, adjacent to Kensal Green. Highgate Cemetery (p. 341) to the N., and Norwood Cemetery to the S. of London, are worth visiting for the sake of the excellent *View3 they afford. Abney Park Cemetery, near Stoke Newington, is much used as a burying-ground by Nonconformists. III. THE SUEREY SIDE. 29. St. Saviour's Church. Barclay and Perkins' Brewery. Guy's Hospital. Southwark Park. The 'Surrey Side' of the metropolis, with a population of over 750,000 souls, has in some respects a character of its own. It is a scene of great business life and bustle from Lambeth to Bermondsey, but its sights, institutions, and public buildings are few. That part of it immediately opposite the City, from London Bridge to Char- ing Cross, is known as 'the Borough', a name which it rightly enjoys over the heads of such newly created boroughs as Greenwich or the Tower Hamlets, seeing it has returned two members to Parlia- ment for more than 500 years. We note a few of its objects of interest. Mention must be made, in the first place, of St Saviour's Church (PL R, 38; ///), one of the oldest churches in London, situated opposite the London Bridge Station , in AVellington Street, which runs S. from London Bridge. The church, which was built in the 13th cent, by Gifford, Bishop of AVinchester, belonged originally to the old Augustinian Priory of St. Mary Overy, but was converted into a parish church by Henry VIII. in 1540. Of this original build- ing, which was cruciform in shape, and constructed in the Early English style , nothing now remains but the interesting choir, transept, and Lady Chapel. The nave was taken down in 1840, and replaced by an incongruous new structure, which has in turn been rebuilt in the course of the restoration now (1894) going on under Blomfield, prior to the church becoming the cathedral for South London. Above the cross is a low quadrangular tower, flanked by corner-towers. The trials of reputed heretics under Queen Mary in 1555 took place in the beautiful Lady Chapel, which is flanked with aisles, and lies north and south. The chapel and choir were restored in 1820 and 1832, with only partial success. The altar-screen in the choir was erected by Fox, Bishop of Winchester, in the early years of the 16th century. The most interesting monument in the church is that of the the poet John Gower (1325-1402), the friend of Chaucer. It con- sists of a sarcophagus with a recumbent marble figure of the poet, whose head rests upon his three principal works, the Speculum meditantis, Vox clamantis , and Confessio amantis, while his feet are supported by a lion. In the Lady Chapel is the monument of Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1625). Massinger and 20* 308 29. BARCLAY'S BREWERY. Fletcher, the dramatists, Edmund Shakspeare, a player, brother of the poet, and Lawrence Fletcher, who was a lessee, along with Shakspeare and Burhage, of the Glohe and Blackfriars Theatres, are also buried here. — On the river, near St. Saviour's, once stood Winchester House, the residence of the bishops of Winchester, and the Globe Theatre just mentioned. — The central station of the Metropolitan Fire Brigade is in Southwark Bridge Road. In Park Street, a little to the W. of St. Saviour's, is situated Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Brewery (PL R, 38; III), partly on the former site of the Globe Theatre. This is one of the most extensive establishments of the kind in London, and is well worthy of a visit, on account both of its great size and its admirable arrangements. The brewery covers an area of about 12 acres, forming a miniature town of houses, sheds, lofts, stables, streets, and courts. At the entrance stand the Offices, where visitors, who readily obtain an order to inspect the establishment on application by letter, enter their names in a book. The guide who is assigned to the visitor on entering, and who shows all the most interesting parts of the establishment, expects a fee of one shilling. In most of the rooms there is a somewhat oppressive and heady odour, particularly in the cooling-room, where the carbonic acid gas lies about a foot deep over the fresh brew. Visitors are recommended to exercise caution in accepting the guide's invitation to breathe this gas. In spite of the vast dimensions of the boilers, vats, fermenting 'squares', and other apparatus, none but the initiated will have any idea of the enormous quantity of liquor brewed here in the course of a year. About 200,000 quarters of malt are annually consumed, and the yearly duty paid to government by the firm amounts to the ■ immense sum of 180,000i. The head brewer receives a salary of lOOOi. per annum. The originator of the brewery was Dr. John- son's friend Thrale, after whose death it was sold to Messrs. Barclay and Perkins. Dr. Johnson's words on the occasion of the sale, which he attended as an executor , though often quoted , are worthy of repetition : 'We are not here to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice.' The water used in brewing is supplied by Artesian wells, sunk on the premises. The stables contain about 150 horses, many of which are bred in Yorkshire. They are used for carting the beer in London. The brewing trade in London lias become a great power witliin the last twenty or thirty years, and is felt to have a serious bearing upon the results of parliamentary and municipal elections. It is no longer a merely manufacturing trade, but promotes the consumption of its own goods by the purchase or lease of drinking-houses, where its agents are installed to conduct the sale. These agents are nominal tenants and are possessed of votes, and their number and influence arc so great, that the power of returning the candidate who favours the 'trade' is often in their hands. All the great brewers are now understood to be extensive proprie- tors of public houses. 29. GUY'S HOSPITAL. 309 The Borougli High Street runs to the S. from St. Saviour's, and is continued by Newington Causeway to the Elephant and Castle (PI. G, 33; p. 77), a well-known inn and omnibus centre (electric railway, see p. 113). In Newington Butts, a little to the W., is the Tabernacle of the late popular preacher Mr. Spurgeon(d. 1891), built in the classic style and accommodating 6000 persons (comp. p. 51). — Walworth Road, leading S. from the Elephant and Castle, is continued by Camberwell Road , No. 207 in which is the South London Fine Art Gallery (adm., see p. 78). In Southwark Street, which diverges to the right (W.) near the N. end of Borough High Street, is the Borough Market (p. 26), Thomas Street , diverging to the left, leads to Guy's Hospital (PI. G, 42), founded in 1721 by Guy, the bookseller, who had amassed an immense fortune by speculation in South Sea stock. The insti- tution contains 500 beds, and relieves 5000 in-patients and 70,000 out-patients annually. The yearly income of the hospital is about 31,000i. The court contains a brazen, and the chapel a marble statue of the founder (d. 1724), the latter by Bacon. Sir Astley Cooper, the celebrated surgeon, to whom a monument has been erected in St. Paul's (see p. 88), is buried here. Among otlier interesting associations connected with this locality the following may be noticed. The name of Park Street reminds us of the extensive Park of the Bishops of Winchester, which occupied the river side from Winchester House to Holland House. In the fields to the S. of this park were the circuses for bull and bear baiting, so popular in the time of the Stuarts. Edward Alleyne was for many years the 'Keeper of the King's wild beasts' here, and amassed thereby the fortune which enabled him to found Dulwich College (see p. 324). — Richard Baxter often preached in a church in Park Street, and in Zoar Street there was a chapel in which John Bunyan is said to have ministered. — Mint Street recalls the mint existing here under Henry VIII. — In High Street there stood down to 1875 the old Talbot or Tabard Jnn, the starting-point of Chaucer's 'Canterbury Pilgrims'. — The White Hart, 63 Borough High Street (see p. 15), mentioned by Shakspeare in 'Henry YF. (Part II., iv. 8) and by Dickens in the 'Pickwick Papers' (as the meeting-place of Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller), and the George (rebuilt after a fire in 1676), are interesting specimens of old-time inns, with galleries round their inner courts. — The Marshalsea Gaol, the name of which is familiar from 'I-ittle Dorrit', stood near St. George's Church, at the corner of Great Dover Street and Boroush High Street. Southwark Park (PI. R, 49, G,49, 53), in Rotherhithe (p. 68), farther to the E., laid out by the Metropolitan Board of Works at a cost of more than 100,000i. , covers an area of sixty-two acres, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the extensive Surrey Docks (p. 131). 30. Lambeth Palace. Bethlehem Hospital. Battersea Park. St. Thomas's Hospital. St. George's Cathedral. On the right bank of the Thames, from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, stretches the Albert Embankment (p. 117). On it, opposite the Houses of Parliament, stands St. Thomas's Hospital 310 30. LAMBETH PALACE. (PL R, 29 ; IV), a spacious edifice built by Currey in 1868-71, at a cost of 500,000i. It consists of seven four-storied buildings in redbrick, united by arcades, and is in all 590 yds. long. The number of in-patients annually treated at the hospital is over 5000, of out- patients about 80,000. Its annual revenue is 40,000i. Professional visitors will be much interested in the admirable internal arrange- ments (admission on Tuesdays at 10 a.m.). The hospital was form- erly in a building in High Street, Southwark, which was sold to the South Eastern Railway Company in 1862 for 296,000i. Lambeth Palace (PI. R, 29; IV), above the hospital, at the E. end of Lambeth Bridge (built in 1862), has been for over 600 years the London residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury. It can only be visited by the special permission of the archbishop (apply to the chaplain). The Chapel, 72ft. long and 26ft. broad, built in 1245 by Archbishop Boniface in the Early English style, is the oldest part of the building. The screen and windows were placed here by Archbishop Laud. The ^Lollards' Tower' (properly the Water Tower), adjoining the W. end of the chapel, so called because the Lollards, or followers of Wycliffe, were supposed to have been imprisoned and tortured here, is an old, massive, square keep , erected by Archbishop Chicheley in 1434. A small room in the upper part of the tower, 13^/2 ft- long, 12 ft. wide, and 8 ft. high, called the 'prison' and forming part of a staircase-turret more than 200 years older than the time of Chicheley, still contains several inscriptions by prisoners, and eight large rings fastened in the wall, to which the heretics were chained. The Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's favourite (1601), Lovelace, the poet (1648), and Sir Thomas Armstrong (1659), were also confined here. The name of Lollards' Tower, applied to what is really a group of three • buildings distinct in character and architecture, dates only from the beginning of the 18th century. The real Lollards' Tower was the S.W. tower of old St. Paul's Cathedral, as mentioned in Stow's Survey of London (1598), — The Hall, 92 ft. long and 40 ft. broad, was built by Archbishop Juxon in 1663, and has a roof in the style of that of Westminster Hall, with Italian instead of Gothic details. — The Library, established by Archbishop Bancroft in 1610, consists of 30,000 vols, and 2000 MSS., some of which, including the Registers of the official acts of the archbishops from 1274 to 1744 in 41 vols., are very valuable. It is at present kept in the hall, and is accessible daily, except Saturdays, between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. (in summer, 5p.m; closed from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th). — The Guard Chamber, 60 ft. long, and 25 ft. broad, contains portraits of the archbishops since 1533, including Archbishop Laud, by Vari, Dyck; Herring, by Hogarth; Seeker, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sutton, by Sir William Beechey ; Howley, by Shee ; and a portrait of Archbishop Warham, after Holbein (1504), a copy of the original in the Louvre (or perhaps, according to Woltmann, the 30. BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL. 311 original itself). The dining-room contains portraits of Luther and his wife. The massive hrick gateway, flanked hy two towers, was erected by Cardinal Morton in the end of the 15th century. — See 'Lambeth Palace and its Associations', by Rev. J. Cave- Browne (2nd ed., 1883), and 'Art Treasures of the Lambeth Library', by the librarian, 8. W. Kershaw (1873). BetMehem Hospital (PI. R, 33 ; popularly corrupted into Bed- lam) , a lunatic asylum , is situated at the point where Lambeth Road, leading E. from Lambeth Bridge (see above), joins St. George's Road. The hospital was founded in Bishopsgate Street by Sheriff Simon Fitz-Mary in 1246, but was presented by Henry VIII. to the city of Lon- don in 1547, and converted into a madhouse. The building in Bishops- gate Street was taken down in 1675, and a new hospital built in Moor- fields, to replace which the present building in St. George's Fields, Lam- beth, was begun in 1812. The cost of construction of the hospital, which has a frontage 900 ft. long, was 122,000^. ; the architect was Lewis, but the dome was added by Smirke. The establishment can accommodate 400 patients, and is fitted up with every modern convenience, including hot air and water pipes , and various appliances for the amusement of the hapless inmates, including billiards. Professional men, who are admitted by cards obtained from one of the governing physicians, will find a visit to the hospital exceedingly interesting. St. Luke's Hospital (PI. B, 40), Old Street, City Road, accommodates 200 patients. There are also exten- sive lunatic asylums at Hanwell (p. 343), 71/2 M. to the "W. of London, on the Great Western Railway, and Colney Hatch^ 6V2 M. to the N. of London, on the Great Northern Railway. Near the hospital , at the corner of St. George's Road and Westminster Bridge Road, stands the principal Roman Catholic church in London , St. George's Cathedral (PL R, 33) , begun by Pugin in the Gothic style in 1840 , and completed , with the ex- ception of the tower, in 1848. — A little to the N., in Westminster Bridge Road, is Christ Church, an elegant Nonconformist chapel, erected for the congregation of the late celebrated Rowland Hill, of Surrey Chapel. The beautiful tower and spire were built with American contributions as a memorial of President Lincoln. Lambeth Road ends at St. George's Circus (PI. R, 33), whence Westminster Bridge Road runs to the W. to Westminster Bridge (p. 199); Waterloo Road to the N.W. to Waterloo Station (p. 34) and Waterloo Bridge (p. 147); Blackfriars Road, passing the Surrey Theatre (p. 42), to the N. to Blackfriars Bridge (p. 117) ; Borough Road to the E. ; and London Road to the S. to the Elephant and Castle (p. 309) and Spurgeon's Tabernacle (p. 309). In the centre of the circus rises an Obelish, erected in 1771 in honour of Lord Mayor Crosby, who obtained the release of a printer imprisoned for publishing the parliamentary debates. From this point we return (by tramway if desired) to the Thames at Lambeth Palace, and skirt the river towards the S. by the Albert Embankment (p. 117), passing the handsome buildings of Doulton's Pottery Works, which have obtained a high artistic reputation and are well worth a visit. At the end of the Embank- 312 30. BATTERSEA PARK. ment Vauxliall Bridge (p. 304) lies to our right, and Harleyfc Road, leading to Kennington Oval(y. 304), to our left. Waudswo) Road, straight in front, leads to the neighbourhood oiClapham Coi mon, a fine public park of 220 acres. We diverge to the rigl however, from Wandsworth Road by Nine Elms Lane, which is coi tinued farther on by Battersea Park Road. Battersea Park (PL G, 14, 15, 18, 19], at the S.W. ei of London, on the right bank of the Thames, opposite Chels' Hospital, was laid out in 1852-58 at a cost of 3l2,890i., and is it acres in extent. It is most conveniently reached by taking a stean: boat to Battersea Park Pier. At the lower end of the park is th elegant Chelsea Bridge, leading to Pimlico, and V2^' distant froi the Sloane Square and Victoria stations of the Metropolitan Rail way. From the upper end of the park the Albert Suspension Bridg crosses to the Chelsea Embankment. Near the S.E. angle of th park are Battersea Park Station of the West London Extension an( the Battersea Park Road Station of the Metropolitan Extensioi (see p. 33). The principal attraction of the extensive pleasure' grounds, which are provided with an artificial sheet of water, groupt of trees, etc., is the Sub-tropical Garden, 4 acres in extent, contain- ing most beautiful and carefully cultivated flower-beds and tropical plants , which are in perfection in August and September. Neai the N. entrance is a convenient refreshment-room , and in the vicinity there is a good restaurant. Dives' Flour Mills, Battersea, to the E. of the parish-church ol St. Mary, occupy the site of the manor-house of Henry St. John Viscount Bolingbroke (1678-1751). The W. wing still remains, containing the cedar-wainscotted room, overlooking the Thames, in which Pope wrote the 'Essay on Man'. Bolingbroke and his wife are buried in the church. Their monument, in the N. gallery, is adorned with their medallions by Roubiliac and bears epitaph? written by Bolingbroke himself. The E. window contains ancient stained glass, relating to the St. Jolin family. EXCUESIONS FROM LONDON. 31. Greenwich Hospital and Park. Greenwich, situated on the Thames, 6M. below London Bridge, may be reached either by the South Eastern Railway from Charing Cross Station^ in 24 min. (trains every 20 min. ; fares 1^., 9cZ. , Gd. ; stations, Waterloo Junction , Cannon Street ^ London Bridge^ Spa Road, Deptford, Greenwich^ ; by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway from Victoria, Holhorn Viaduct, or Ludgate Hill in 30-35 min.; by Tramway from Blackfriars Bridge or Westminster Bridge; or by Steamboat, in ^/i-i^/i hr. according to the state of the tide (every 1/2 ^^- '1 fares Qd. and Ad. ; piers, Westminster, Charing Cross, Waterloo, Temple, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, London Bridge, Cherry Gardens, Thames Tunnel, Globe Stairs, Limehouse, West India Dock, Commercial Dock, Millwall, GreenwicK). The last route is prefer- able in line weather. — The traveller may combine a visit to Black- wall (East India Docks, see p. 131) with the excursion to Green- wich ; trains of the Blackwall Railway run in 20 min. (fares 6d., 4d.) to Blackwall, whence a steamboat plies every 1/2 hour to Greenwich, in 20 minutes. Greenwich. Hotels : Thos. Quartermaine's Ship Tavern (very expensive; fish-dinner from about 7s.); Crown and Sceptre. Connected with the Ship Tavern is a restaurant, called the Ship Stores, which is cheaper; dinner 3-4s. At the close of the parlia- mentary session the Cabinet Ministers and other members of the Government used to meet to partake of a banquet at Greenwich, known as the Whitebait Dinner, from the whitebait, a small fish not much more than an inch in length, for which Greenwich is famous, and which is considered a great delicacy. It is eaten with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and brown bread and butter. Pop. of Greenwich (1891) 165, 417. *Greenwicli Hospital and Royal Naval College (PI. G, 70) oc- cupies the site of an old royal palace, built in 1433 by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and called by him Placentia or Plaisance. In it Henry VIII. and his daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, were born, and here Edward VI. died. During the Commonwealth the palace was removed. In 1667 Charles II. began to rebuild it, but he only completed the wing which is named after him. Twenty years later, after the accession of William III., the building was resumed, and in 1694 the palace was converted into a hospital for aged and dis- abled sailors. The number of inmates accommodated in the hospital reached its highest point (2710) in 1814, but afterwards decreased considerably. In 1865 the number was 1400, and of these nearly 314 31. GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 1000 took advantage of a resolution of the Admiralty, wMch gave the pensioners the option of remaining in the hospital or of receiv- ing an out-door pension, and chose the latter alternative. There are now no pensioners left. The revenue of the hospital amounts to about 160,000^. per annum, being derived mainly from landed pro- perty ; and upv^ards of 9000 seamen and marines derive benefit from it in one form or another. The funds also support Greenwich Hos- pital School (p. 315). The hospital is now used as a Royal Naval College, for the instruction of naval officers ; but many of the suites of rooms are at present unoccupied. The expenses of the college and the maintenance of the building are defrayed by votes of Parliament. The building consists of four masses or sections. On the side next the river are the W. or King Chaeles Building, with the library, and the E. or Queen Anne Building, which now contains a naval museum. These are both in the Corinthian style. Behind are the S.W. or King William Building, and the S.E. or Queen Mart Building, each furnished with a dome in Wren's style. The River Terrace, 890 ft. long, is embellished with two granite obelisks, one in commemoration of the marine officers and men who fell in the New Zealand rebellion of 1863-64 ; and the other (of red granite) in honour of Lieutenant Bellot, a French naval officer, who lost his life in a search for Franklin. The quadrangle in the centre contains a marble statue of George II., in Roman costume, by Rysbrack; an Elizabethan gun found in the Medway and supposed to have be- longed to a ship sunk by the Dutch in 1667; and a gun which was on board the 'Victory' at Trafalgar (1805). In the upper quadrangle is a colossal bust of Nelson, by Chantrey. — On the S.W. side is the Seamen s Hospital, for sailors of all nationalities, transferred hither in 1865 from the Dreadnought, an old man-of-war formerly stationed in the Thames. The Painted Hall (see below) is open to the public daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 (on Sun. after 2 p.m.), and the Chapel and Royal Museum are open daily, except. Sun. and Frid., at the same hours. The chief feature of the King William section is the Painted Hall, 106 ft. long, 50 ft. broad, and 50 ft. high, containing the Naval Gallery of pictures and portraits which commemorate the naval victories and heroes of Great Britain. The paintings on the wall and ceiling were executed by Sir James Thornhill in 1707-27. The Descriptive Catalogue (price 3d.) supplies brief biographical and historical data. The Vestibule contains, amongst other pictures, Portraits of Co- lumbus and Andrea Doria (from Italian originals), Vaaco da Gama (from a Portuguese original), Uuquesne by Steuben, and the Earl of Sandwich by Oainsborough; statues of Admirals St. Vincent, Howe, Nelson, and Duncan; a memorial tablet to Sir John Franklin and his companions, executed by Westmacott (on the left)-, and a painting of the turret-ship 'Devastation at a naval review in honour of the Shah of Persia (1873), by E. W. Cooke (to the right). — The Hall. The four corners are filled with marble statues : to the left of the entrance, Adm. de Saumarez, by 31. GREENWICH PARK. 315 Steele; to the right, Capt. Sir William Peel, by Theed; to the left of the exit, Viscount Exmouth, by Macdowell ; to the right, Adm. Sir Sidney Smith, by Kirk. The numbering of the pictures begins in the corner to the right. Among the moat conspicuous are the following: Loutherbourg, 11. Destruction of the Spanish Armada in 1588, 28. Lord Howe's victory at Ouessant; 26. Bviggs^ George III. presenting a sword to Lord Howe in commemoration of the victory at Ouessant in 1794; 34. Drummond, Battle of Camperdown (1797); 46. Chambers (after Ben. West)., Battle of La Hogue, 1692 ; 53. Zoffany, Death of Captain Cook in 1779 ; 80. Devis., Death of Nelson in 1805; 86. Turner., Battle of Trafalgar; 91. Arnold., Battle of Aboukir; 98. Jones., Battle of St. Vincent; 107. Allen., Nelson boarding the San Nicholas, 1797. Among the most interesting portraits are: 10. Hawkins, Drake, and Cavendish, a group after My tens ; 27. St. Vin- cent; 29. Hood; 87. Bridport, by Reynolds; 50. George, Duke of Cumber- land, by Kneller; 52. Cook, by Dance; 54. James II., by Lely ; 56. Sir James Clark Ross; 63. Adm. Kempenfelt; 77. Sir Charles Napier; 85. Nelson; 87. Collingwood; 88. Capt. G. Dufif; 104. Monk, Duke of Albe- marle, by Lely; 109. Sir W. Penn, by Lely. — In the Upper Hall are busts of (left) Rivers, Goodenough, William IV., Sir Joseph Banks, Blake, Adam, Liardet, Tschitchagoff (a Russian admiral), and Vernon. The upper hall also contains glass-cases with relics of Nelson, including the coat and waistcoat he wore at Trafalgar, when he received his death- wound; the coat he wore at the battle of the Nile; his watch; his pig- tail, cut off after death; an autograph letter; and a Turkish gun and sabre presented to him after the battle of the Nile. — The Nelson Room (to the left of the upper hall) contains pictures by West and others in honour of the heroic Admiral, a series of portraits of his contemporaries, portraits of General Barrington by Reynolds and Admiral Hope (d. 1881) by Hodges; the silken hangings of Nelson's hammock, etc. In the S.E. or Queen Mary edifice is the Chapel, wMcli contains an altarpiece by West., representing St. Paul shaking the viper off his hand after his shipwreck, and monuments of Adm. Sir R. Keats, hy Chantrey, and Adm. Sir Thomas Hardy, by Behnes. The Royal Naval Museum, in the W. or King Charles wing and the E, or Queen Anne wing (admission free), contains models of ships, rigging, and various apparatus ; relics of the Franklin ex- pedition; mementoes of Nelson ; a model of the Battle of Trafalgar; a number of paintings and drawings, etc. At the Royal Naval School, lying between the hospital and Greenwich Park , 1000 children of English seamen are educated (800 boys and 200 girls). General Wolfe (d. at Quebec, 1759) is buried in the parish- church of St. Alphage. To the S. of Greenwich is*Greenwich Park (PI. G, 71), 174 acres in extent, laid out during the reign of CharlesII. by the celebrated Le Notre. The park, with its fine old chestnuts and hawthorns (in blossom in May) and herds of tame deer, is a favourite resort of Londoners of the middle classes on Sundays and holidays, particularly on Good Friday, Easter Monday, and Whit - Monday. A hill in the centre, 180 ft. in height, is crowned by the famous Greenwich Royal Observatory (no admission), from the meridian ot which English astronomers make their calculations. The correct time for the whole of England is settled here every day at 1 p.m. ; a large coloured ball descends many feet, and the time is telegraphed hence to the most important towns throughout the country. A stand- 316 32. WOOLWICH. ard clock (with the honrs numhered from 1 to 24) and various standard measures of length are fixed just outside the entrance, pro bono publico. The terrace In front of the observatory and the other elevated portions of the park command an extensive and varied view over the river , bristling with the masts of vessels all the way to London, over the Hainault and Epping Forests, backed by the hills of Hampstead, and over the plain extending to the N. of the Thames and intersected by docks and canals. On the S. and S.E., Greenwich Park is bounded by Blackheath, a common, now 70 acres in extent, across which runs the Roman road to Dover. Here Wat Tyler in 1381 and Jack Cade in 1450 as- sembled the rebellious 'men of Kent', grown impatient under hard deprivations, for the purpose of attacking the metropolis, and here belated travellers were not unfrequently robbed in former times. Golf was introduced at Blackheath early in the 17th cent., and the heath is still frequented by golfers, though better golfing grounds, or 'links', have been laid out within the last few years elsewhere near London [comp. p. 47j. 32. Woolwich. Woolwicli, also situated on the Thames, 9 M. below London, maybe reached by a steamboat of the Victoria Steamboat Association (fares Qd. and 4d.); or by the North Kent Railway (stations, New Cross , St. Johns, Lewisham , Blackheath , Charlton^ from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge; or, lastly, by the Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street or Fen church Street. A free ferry connects Woolwich with North Woolwich. Pop. (1891)40,848. The EoTAL Arsenal , one of the most imposing establishments in existence for the manufacture of materials of war, is shown on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 10 and 12, and 2 and 4, by tickets, obtained at the War Office, Pall Mall. Foreigners must receive special permission by application through their ambassador. The chief departments are the Gun Factory , established in 1716 by a German named Schalch (the new Woolwich guns are not cast, but formed of wrought-iron bars) ; the Laboratory for making cartridges and projectiles; and the Gun-carriage and Waggon De- partment. The arsenal covers an area of 100 acres , and affords employment to 10,000 men. The magazines, which extend along the Thames for nearly a mile, contain enormous stores of war materials. To the W. of the arsenal, and higher up the slope, lie the Royal Marine Barracks, eight buildings connected by a corridor, and con- taining a battalion of marines. Still higher up, opposite Woolwich Common, are the Royal Artillery Barracks, 1200 ft. in length, with accommodation for 4000 men and 1000 horses. In front of the building are placed several pieces of ordnance from India and the 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 317 Crimea, including a cannon 16 1/2 ft, long, cast in 1677 for the Em- peror Aurungzebe, and 'looted' at Bhurtpore ; four Florentine guns of 1750 ; and specimens of armour-plating penetrated by shots. The Royal Military Academy , established in 1719, and trans- ferred in 1806 to the present building on Woolwich Common, trains cadets for the Engineers or Artillery. On the N.W. side of the Common stands the Royal Military Repository, orRotunda (113 ft. in diameter), built by Nash in 1814, containing a military museum, with models of fortifications and designs and specimens of modern artillery (open to the public daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6, according to the season). The Dockyard, established by Henry VIII. in 1532, has been closed since 1st Oct., 1869. — The extensive Telegraphic Works of Siemens Brothers, where submarine cables are made, are worth visiting (special card of admission necessary, to be procured only at the London office , 12 Queen Anne's Gate , by visitors provided with an introduction). About 11/2 M. to the S. of Woolwich Common rises Shooters^ Hill, a conspicuous eminence, commanding an extensive and charm- ing view of the richly- wooded plains of Kent. 33. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham. Trains for the Crystal Palace leave London Bridge Station (p. 34), Ludgate Hill Station fp. 34), Holborn Viaduct Station (p. 34), and Victoria Station (p. 33) nearly every 1/4 hr. Fares from each of these stations, Is. 3d., Is., and 7d.; return-tickets 2s., Is. 6d., Is. Ad- mission to the Palace Is, ; annual season-ticket 21s. Return-tickets including the price of admission are issued at the railway stations, and cost (on the Is. days) 2s. Qd., 2s., and Is. Qd. On the dates of the Saturday concerts in winter and other special occasions, duly ad- vertised in the newspapers beforehand, the prices are raised. Chil- dren under 12 years of age pay half-price. Trains also run from all stations on the North London Railway, but by a very circuitous route, viaHampstead Heath, Willesden Junction, and Addison Road (Kensington) ; and visitors will do better to book through from the stations of the Metropolitan lines. The Palace is opened at 10 a.m., and closed at 7.30 p.m. in winter (except on nights when the interior of the Palace is illuminated) and at 10 p.m. in summer, when illu- minated garden fetes are a great feature (comp. p. 323). A hasty visit to the Palace and gardens, including the journey there and back, occupies at least half-a-day. JV^eals may be taken at the Palace, where there are good restaurants with various charges, from the Third Class Refreshment Rooms in the S. Basement up- wards. Refreshments may be obtained at any of the counters distrib- uted throughout the building, and there are also public and pri- vate dining-rooms in three or four different parts of the Palace. 318 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. The Palace also contains a library and D reading-room (adjoining the transept in the N.E. section, admis- sion Id,), letter-boxes, lavatories , railway time - tables, shoe- blacks, a hair-cntting room, and other con- veniences. If fatigued, the visitor may hire a wheel-chair and atten- dant at the rate of is. 6d. per hr. within the Palace or 2s. in the grounds. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham, designed by Sir Joseph Paxton, consists entirely of glass and iron. It was constructed mainly with the materials of the first great Industri- al Exhibition of 1851, and was opened in 1854. It is composed of a spacious central hall or nave, 1608 ft. long, with lateral sec- tions, two aisles, and two transepts. (A third transept at the N. end, which formed a palm- house of imposing di- mensions, was burned down in 1866.) The central transept is 390 ft. long, 120 ft. broad, and 175 ft. high the S. transept is 312 ft. long, 72 ft. broad, and 110 ft. high. The two water - towers at the ends are 282 ft. in height. The cost of the whole undertaking, in- cluding the magnifl- 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 319 cent garden and grounds, and mncli additional land outside, amount- ed to a million and a half sterling. Entrances. (1.) Tlie Low Level Station of the Brighton and South Coast Railway, and of the South London Line (London Bridge, Crystal Palace, Wandsworth, Victoria Station), is on the S.E. side of the Palace, and connected with it by a glass gallery. We pay at the entrance of the gallery, which also communicates directly with the garden and terrace of the Palace. — (2.) From the High Level Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Line (Victoria Terminus or Holhorn Viaduct Station), on the W. side of the Palace, we pass through the subway to the right , and ascend the staircase , where we observe the notice 'To the Palace only', leading direct to the W. portion of the Palace. If we leave the subway on the right, and ascend the stairs past the booking-office, we reach a broad road at the top, on the other side of which is the principal entrance in the central transept. — Those who approach from Dulwich (p. 324) alight at Sydenham Hill Station, 1/2 M. from the Palace. The Crystal Palace is of such vast extent , that in our limited space we can only give a brief outline of its arrangements. A fuller description will be found in the official Guide, which is sold at the Palace (price Is. ; smaller guide-books 2d., programme for the day 2d.). The chief objects of interest are most conveniently visited in the following order (comp. Plan). Approaching from the Low Level Station (see above) through the glass arcade, 720 ft. in length, we first enter the S. Transept, whence, opposite the great partition (PI. s), we obtain a good general survey of the Palace (better still from the gallery above the partition). The effect produced by the contrast between the green foliage of the plants, distributed along the whole of the nave, and the white forms of the statuary to which they form a background, is most pleasing. Behind the statues are the richly-coloured facades of the courts, and high above is the light and airy glass vaulting of the roof. The whole presents, at a single coup cTceil, a magnificent and unique view of the art and culture of nations which are widely separated from each other in time and space. In order to obtain a general idea of the arrangements of the Palace we walk to the opposite end of the nave , and then visit the various courts, beginning with the Egyptian Court on the N.W. side of the central transept. In the South Transept we first observe, in recesses in the par- tition mentioned above (adjoining which are refreshment rooms, see p. 317), a series of plaster casts of the statues of English monarchs in the Houses of Parliament (see p. 194). The eques- trian statue of Queen Victoria in the middle of the transept is by Marochetti. A little beyond it is a water-basin containing the Crystal Fountain (by Osier), which once adorned the original Cry- stal Palace of 1851 in Hyde Park, and is now embellished with 320 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. aquatic plants and ferns. The casts from modern sculptures are ar- ranged for the most part in the S. nave and transept, and those from the antique in the N. half of the building. On the left (W.) of the Central Transept is the great Handel Orchestra^ which can accommodate 4000 persons, and has a diameter (216 ft.) twice as great as the dome of St. Paul's. In the middle is the powerful organ, with 4384 pipes, huilt by Gray & Davison at a cost of 6000 Z. and worked by hydraulic machinery (a performance usually given in the afternoon; organist, Mr. A. J. Eyre). Opposite, at the garden end of the transept, is the Great Stage. The Concert Hall, on the S. side of the stage, can accommodate an audience of 4000. An excellent orchestra plays here daily (at present on Mon. at 12.30 and 4, Tues. and Thurs. at 12.30, Wed. at 3.30, and Frid. at 4), and admirable concerts are given every Saturday from October to April (conductor, Mr. August Manns). The Opera House, on the N., opposite the Concert Hall, accommodates 2000 persons, and is used for plays and pantomimes as well as for operas. On each side of the nave is a range of so-called *Coubts, con- taining copies of the architecture and sculpture of the most highly civilised nations , from the earliest period to the present day, arranged in chronological order. Egyptian Couet (PI. a), with imitations of ancient Egyptian architecture. The small room with the fluted columns is a repro- duction of the rock tomb of Beni Hassan. Adjoining it is the pil- lared Hall of Karnak ; behind, in the recess, the tomb of Abu Simbel in Nubia. The chamber situated next the nave, with the avenue of lions in front of it, is a model of a temple of the period of the Ptolemies (B.C. 300). On the wall to the left are pictorial re- presentations from the great Temple of Ramses HI. at Thebes ; on the right, the storming of a fortress and a battle. The Greek Court (PI. b) contains portions of Greek build- ings and casts of Greek sculpture. In the centre of the front room are two copies of the Venus of Milo, one showing the pose of the original figure as set up in the Louvre in 1820, the other the amended pose of the statue as re-erected after the Franco-German War. The contents of this room also include the Laocoon, the Ge- nius of Death, the Ludovisi Mars, the Discus-thrower, and the Vatican Ariadne. The Atrium to the W. of this contains a model of the Acropolis, while the Gallery at the back reveals casts of the Elgin marbles in the British Museum, the Niobe group, etc. The Roman Court (PL e) contains casts of the most celebrated objects of art of the Roman period: the Apollo Belvedere, the Diana of Versailles, the Venuses of Aries, Florence, and Naples (Kallipygos), busts of the Emperors, etc. In the centre are models of the Pantheon and the Colosseum at Rome, restored, and of the Roman Forum in its present condition. — Adjoining is a cabinet with views of Pompeii (admission 6d.). 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 321 Next comes the Alhambea Court (PI. d), a copy of part of the Alhambra, the Moorish palace at Granada. Approaching from the nave, we first enter the Court of the Lions, and then the Hall of Justice, whence we pass into the Hall of the Abencerrages (in the centre). To the right and left are smaller apartments. The north end of the Palace, which, like the other, hoasts of a handsome *Fountain with a hasin of aquatic plants, is now occupied hy the Tropical Department, containing specimens of tropical vegetation, and aviaries of foreign birds. — From this part of the building a staircase descends to the right by the buffet into the *Aquarium (PI. e), which contains an admirable collection of salt- water and shell fish. Beyond are the swimming-bath, the monkey- house, and the orangery. We now proceed to the E. side of the nave, where we first enter the Byzantine and Romanesque Court (PI. f), with specimens of architecture and sculpture of various dates from the 6th to the 13th century. At the entrance is a fragment of a cloister from the Church of St. Maria im Capitol at Cologne ; in the centre a fountain from the Abbey of Heisterbach in the Seven Mountains. Also the Fonte- vrault effigies ; a piece of sculpture from the Baptistery of St. Mark at Venice ; above, an arcade from the church at Gelnhausen ; Nor- man portal from the church of Kilpeck, in Herefordshire; the doors of the cathedral of Hildesheim, of 1015; also those of Ely Cathedral, and of the church of Shobden, Herefordshire. The following three Medieval Courts (PI. g") contain copies of buildings, ornaments, and monuments of the Gothic period (12th- 16th cent.). The first is devoted to German Gothic, the second to English, and the third to French. The English Court is parti- cularly rich and interesting. The Norman-Romanesque Style, with its semicircular, horse-shoe arches and indented columnar orna- mentation, the Early English Style (13tb cent.), the Decorated or Developed Gothic (Mth cent.), the Perpendicular or Late Gothic, and the Tudor Style are all represented in this court by numerous reproductions of original buildings. The adjacent Renaissance Court (PI. h) contains, at the W. entrance, an arched gateway from the Hotel du Bourgtheroulde at Rouen (beginning of the 16th cent.) ; in the centre, a fountain from the Chateau de Gaillon in Normandy ; two fountains from the Doge's Palace at Venice ; altar from the Certosa, near Pavia (1473) ; oppo- site, the celebrated doors of the Baptistery at Florence, by Lor. Ghi- berti (1420) ; statues and reliefs by Donatello, Delia Robbia, etc. The adjoining Elizabethan Vestibule contains architectural specimens of the English Renaissance of the time of Queen Eliz- abeth (end of the 16th, and beginning of the 17th cent.), chiefly from Holland House, Kensington, and a number of monuments from Westminster Abbey (p. 200) and the Temple Church (p. 141). The Italian Court (PI. i), the last hall of this department, Baeoekeb, London. 9th Edit. 21 322 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. represents part of the Palazzo Farnese at Rome , which was completed under the direction of Michael Angelo. The loggia or arcade on the S. side contains copies of Raphael's celebrated frescoes in the Vatican ; also a number of works by Michael Angelo, including the monument ofGiuliano de' Medici with the celebrated figures of Day and Night. Opposite, by the N. arcade, is the monu- ment of Lorenzo de' Medici. The Pietk, and the colossal Moses in the division behind, rank among Michael Angelo's finest works. — The Italian Vestibule recalls the Casa Taverna at Milan, and contains an excellent model of St. Peter's at Rome. On the S. side of the Central Transept, which we now traverse, begin the Industrial Courts, most of the objects in which are for sale. We first observe, next to the Concert Hall, the French Court (PI. k), now used as an afternoon tea room; then a Court (PI. 1) containing scientific instruments and books ; next , the Fabrics Court (PI. m) ; and then the Glass and China Court (PL n). Behind these four courts is the Carriage Department, where vehicles of every description are exhibited. We have now again reached the South Transept. Among the shrubberies around the water-basin mentioned at p. 314 are groups of figures representing the different races of mankind, stuffed animals, and other objects. On theW. side is the Pompeian Court (PL o), which is intended to represent a Roman house of the reign of Titus, having been carefully copied, both in form and pictorial decoration, from a building excavated at Pompeii some years ago. The pavement at the entrance shows the figure of a dog in mosaic, with the inscription 'Cave eanem', such as was frequently found in Roman houses. A small passage (passing small rooms for porters and slaves on the right and left) leads to the 'atrium', or public reception court, with a rectangular water-basin ('impluvium') in the centre, and 'cubicula' or dormitories around it. Next comes the 'tablinum', which contained the art treasures of the house. Beyond is the 'ambulatorium' and the garden, round which are dining and dressing rooms, the sleeping chamber of the master of the house, the kitchen, and other rooms. The Chinese Court (PL p) contains Chinese art and manu- factures, including Archdeacon Gray's collection of Oriental china. The Manufacturing Court (PL q) shows interesting processes of manufacture, including a steam loom for ornamental weaving. The Entertainment Court (PL r) is now used for exhibitions of various kinds. Ascending now to the Gallery, by a staircase near the Central Transept (W. side), we reach the collection of Oil and Water- colour Paintings, which includes some fine modern works. On the opposite side of the Orchestra we observe the Portrait Gallery, consisting of a series of busts of eminent men of all nations. The N. portion of the same (E.) gallery is occupied by a Museum. 33. THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 323 The South-Eastern and South Galleries are filled with stalls for the sale of trinkets, toys, millinery, confectionery, and knickknacks of all sorts. The Palace also possesses a gymnasium, the Wiirtem- berg collection of stuffed animals, a skating-rink, and many other attractions of which it is needless to give an exhaustive list. The chief exit from the Crystal Palace into the *Gardens is in the S. basement, below the Central Transept; they may also be entered from the covered arcade leading to the Palace from the Low Level Station (p. 319), or by any one of the small side-doors in different parts of the building. The Gardens, covering an area of 200 acres, and laid out in terraces in the Italian and English styles, are tastefully embellished with flower-beds, shrubberies, fountains, cascades, and statuary. The numerous seats offer grate- ful repose after the fatigue of a walk through the Palace. At the head of the broad walk is a monument to Sir Joseph Paxton, sur- mounted by a colossal bust by Woodington. The fine fountains have recently been filled up. At a 'grand display of the fountains' about 120,000 gallons of water used to be thrown up per minute. A great display of fireworks (by Messrs. C.T. Brock & Co.) takes place every Thursday evening in summer, often attracting 10-20,000 visitors. — The *Geological Department in the S.E. portion of the park, by the Great Pond, is extremely interesting and should not be over- looked. It contains full-size models of antediluvian animals, — the Megalosaurus, Ichthyosaurus, Pterodactyl, Palseotherium, Megathe- rium, and the Irish Elk (found in the Isle of Man) — together with the contemporaneous geological formations. — The N.E. part of the park is laid out as a Cricket Ground, and on summer afternoons the game attracts numerous spectators. The Lawn Tennis Courts (2s. per hour) are also here. At the end of theN. terrace are a bear-pit, monkey-house, and aviaries ; and the gardens also contain open-air gymnasia, 'roller coaster' and 'switchback' railways, an archery- ground, swings, etc. Near the Rosery is a Panorama of the Battle of Rezonville (Metz) by Detaille and De Neuville (adm. 6d.). The highest Terrace, the balustrade of which is embellished with 26 marble statues representing the chief countries and most important cities in the world , affords a magnificent view of the park and of the rich scenery of the county of Kent. The prospect is still more extensive from the platform of the N. Tower, which rises to a height of 282 ft. above the level of the lowest basins, and is ascended by a winding staircase and by a lift; it extends into six counties, and embraces the whole course of the Thames. In the London Road, Forest Hill, about 1 1/4 M. from the Crystal Palace and the same distance from the Dulwich Gallery (see p. 324), is the Surrey House Museum, a private collection belonging to Mr. F. J. Horniman, which is open to the public on Mon., Wed., and Sat., from 2 to 9 p.m., and also at other times to visitors on, 21* 324 34. DULWICH previous application by letter to the curator (no fees). The col- lections include china and porcelain, ethnographical curiosities, historical relics, carved furniture, enamels, arms and armour, fans, musical instruments, antiquities, Oriental ohjects, etc. The natural history department includes an interesting collection of live insects and a brilliant array of moths and butterflies. Visitors are also ad- mitted to the pleasant grounds and to the view-tower. The Museum is about 3 min. walk from Lordship Lane^ on the London, Chatham, & Dover Railway, and 6 min. walk hom Forest Hill, on the London, Brighton, & South Coast Railway. 34. Dnlwich. A little to the N. of the Crystal Palace, at a distance of 5 M. from London, lies Dulwich College, in the village of the same name , a large charitable and educational institution , famous for its valuable ^Picture Gallery. This collection was formed by Noel Desenfans , a picture-dealer in London , by desire of Stanislaus, King of Poland, but in consequence of the partition of Poland it remained in the possession of the collector. It was afterwards acquired by l^ir P. J. Bourgeois, the painter (d. 1811), who be- queathed it to God's Gift College at Dulwich, which was founded by Alleyne, the actor, a friend of Shakspeare. Along with the pictures Bourgeois left 12,000i. for their maintenance and the erection of a suitable building to contain them. The Picture Gallery is open daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 according to the seasons (on Sundays, 2-5). Dulwich is most conveniently reached from Victoria Station, in 20 min., or St. Paul's Station, in 25-30 min. (fares 9d., 7d., 5d.; return-tickets. Is. , lOd. , 8d.). We leave the station by a flight of steps on the E., at the foot of which we turn to the right. After proceeding for about 100 paces we observe in front of us the New College, a handsome red brick building in the Renaissance style. Here we take the broad road to the left (Gallery Road), and in 5 min. more reach, on the right, the entrance to the Gallery, indicated by a notice on a lamp-post. The scenery around is very pleasing, and the excursion an interesting one. This eolection possesses a few excellent Spanish works by Velazquez (1599-1660) and (more especially) his pupil Murillo (1618-1682) , and also some good examples of the French school (particularly N. Poussin, 1594- 1665, and Watteau, 1684-1721) ; while, among Italian schools, later masters only (such as the Academic school of the Carracci at Bologna) are re- presented. The small pictures catalogued as by Raphael have been, unfortunately, freely retouched. The glory of the gallery, however, consists in its admirable collection of Dutch paintings, several masters being excellently illustrated both in number and quality. For instance, no other collection in the world possesses so many paintings by Albert Cwyjj (1605-1672), the great Dutch landscape and animal painter (seventeen, two of which, Nos. 180 and 68, are doubtful). The chief power of Cupy, who has been named the Dutch Claude, lies in his brilliant and pictur- esque treatment of atmosphere and light. Similar in style are the works of the brothers Jan and Andrew Both^ also well represented in this gal- 34. DULWICH. 325 lery, who resided in Italy and imitated Claude. Andrew supplied the figures to the landscapes of his brother Jan (Utrecht, i610-1656). The ten examples of Philip Wouwerman (Haarlem, 1620-1668), the most eminent Dutch painter of battles and hunting scenes, include specimens of his early manner (Nos. 65 and 125), as well as others exhibiting the brilliant effects of his later period. Among the fine examples of numerous other masters , two genuine works by Rembrandt (1607-1669) are conspicuous (Nos. 189 and 206). About twenty pictures here were formerly assigned to Rubens (1577-164), but traces of an inferior hand are visible in most of them. Among the works of Flemish masters the large canvasses of Rubens' rival Van Dyck (1599-1641), and those of Teniers the Elder (Ant- werp, 1582-1649) and Teniers the Younger (1610-1694), call for special notice. The specimens of the last-named, one of the most prominent of all genre painters, will in particular well repay examination. — Catalogue, by J. P. Richter and /. Sparkes. Room I. On the left: 334. Bolognese School, St. Cecilia; 9. Cupp, Landscape with cattle; 5. Cupp^ Cows and sheep, an early work; 8,10. W. von Romeyn ("Utrecht, pupil of Berchem ; d. 1662), Landscapes with figures ; *30, 199, 205, 41. Jan and Andrew Both^ Landscapes with figures and cattle ; 16, 15. Bartolommeo Breenberg (of Utrecht, settled in Rome; d. 1660), Small landscapes ; 14. Corn. Poelemburg {Vitrec'ht:, ^. 1666), Dancing nymph; 112. Adrian van der Neer (Amsterdam; d. 1691), Moonlight scene; *155, *61. Teniers the Younger., Landscapes with figures; 52. Teniers the Elder., Cottage and figures; *64, *63. Wouwerman., Landscapes. 104. Corn. Dusart (Haarlem, d. 1704), Old building, with figures. 'A remarkably careful and choice picture by this scholar of Adrian van Ostade, who approaches nearest to his master in the glow of his colouring\ — Waagen. 107. Adrian van Ostade (Haarlem; d. 1685), Interior of a cottage with figures; *86. Both., Landscape; 84. Teniers the Younger, Cottage with figures; 85. Brekelenkamp., Old woman eating porridge; 72. Adrian van de Velde (Am- sterdam; d. 1672), Landscape with cattle; 86. Teniers the Younger., Cottage with figures; •106. Gerard Dou, Lady playing; on a keyed instrument; 319. Le Brun, Horatius Codes defending the bridge; 50. Teniers the Younger., Guard-room; 329. Spanish School, Christ bearing the cross; *114. Cupp, Interior of a riding-school. — The room to the left of R. I. contains the Cariwright Collection of Portraits. Room II. On the left: 93. Wouwerman, View near Scheveningen, early work; 113. Willem van de Velde the Younger (Amsterdam; d. 1701), Calm; 156. Ctiyp, Two horses; *125, 173, *126. Wouwerman, Landscapes with figures; 124. Van Dyck, Charity; *229. Karel du Jar din (Amsterdam, pupil of Berchem, painted at Rome; d. 1678), Smith shoeing an ox ; *131. Meindert Hobbema (Amsterdam ; d. 1709), Landscape with a water-mill ; 130. Adam Pynacker (of Pynacker, near Delft, settled in Italy; d. 1673), Landscape with sportsmen; 135. Van Dyck, Virgin and Infant Saviour (repetitions at Dresden and elsewhere); 137. Wouwerman, Farrier and an old convent (engraved under the title 'Le Colombier du Mar^chaF) ; 139. Teniers the Younger, A chateau with the family of the proprietor; 141. Cuyp, Landscape with figures; *144. Wouwerman, Halt of travellers. *166. W. van de Velde, Brisk gale off the Texel. 'A warm evening light, happily blended with the delicate silver tone of the master, and of the most exquisite finish in all the parts, makes this one of his most charming pictures.' — W. *147. Jan Weenix (Amsterdam, 1640-1719 ; son and pupil of Jan Baptist Weenix), Landscape with accessories, dated 1664; *54. Adrian Br ouwer (Haarlem, pupil of F. Hals, d. 1640), Interior of an ale-house, a genuine specimen of a scarce master; 154. Ruysdael, Waterfall, painted in an un- usually broad manner ; *190. A. van Ostade, Boors making merry, 'of astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour'; 12, *11. Jan Wy- nants (Haarlem, d. 1677), Landscapes; 140. Jan van Huysum (Amster- dam, d. 1749), Flowers; 160. Mc. Berchem (lU&rlem. d. 1683), Wood scene; 168. School of Rubens, Samson and Delilah; *163, **169. Cuyp, Land- 326 34. DULWICH. scapes with cattle and figures; iS2. Rubens, Portrait; 176. Unknown Master, Landscape with cattle; 159. Salvator Rosa (Naples and Rome; d. 1673), Landscape; 178. Unknown Master of Haarlem, Landscape with figures; 358. Gainsborough, Portrait of Thomas Linley; 116. Teniers the Younger, Winter-scene. Room III. On the left: *60. Teniers the Younger, Sow and pigs; 191. Adrian van der Werff (court painter to the Elector Palatine; d. 1722), Judgment of Paris; *241. Rtcysdael, Landscape with mills. 194. Velazquez, Portrait of the Prince of Asturias , son of Philip IV., a copy of the original at Madrid. Antoine Watteau {Faris , d. 1721), -210. Le bal champetre ; *197. La fete champetre. 277. German School, Salvator Mundi; 2(X), 209. Berchem, Landscapes; ~206. Rembrandt, A girl at a window; *196. Jan van der Heyde (Amsterdam, d. 1712), Landscape, figures by A. van de Velde ; 213. After Van DycA, Portrait; 145. Cuyp, Winter scene; 22S. Wouwerman, Landscape. 359. Sir Thos. Lawrence (d. 1830), Portrait of Wm. Linley, the author ; 183. Northcote, Sir P. J. Bourgeois (p. 324); 150. Pynacker, Landscape with figures; 238. G. Schalcken, Ceres at the old woman's cottage, from Ovid ; *239, 243. Cuyp, Landscapes near Dort, with cattle ; 242. Van Dyck, Lady Venetia Digby, taken after death ; 226. Italian Master, Venus gathering apples in the garden of the Hesperides; *189. Rembrandt, Portrait, early work, painted in 1632; 186. W. van de Velde, Calm. Room IV. On the left: *248. if«r/»o, Spanish flower-girl ; 252. Charles le Brun (pupil of N.Poussin ; d. 1G90), Massacre of the Innocents; *244. Claude. Landscape, with Jacob and Laban ('one of the most genuine Claudes I know', writes Mr. Ruskin); *278. Wynants (ascribed to TiMj/sdaeO-, Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde;2Q2. Gaspar Poussin (pupil of N. Poussin; d. 1675), Destruction of Niobe and her children; *275. Claude Lorrain (d. 1682), Italian seaport; 271. Salvator Rosa, Soldiers gaming ('very spirited, and in a deep glowing tone') ; 270. Claude, Embarkation of St. Paula at Ostia, *283. Murillo, Two Spanish peasant boys and a negro boy. 'Very natural and animated, defined in the forms, and painted in a golden warm tone'. — W. *286. Murillo, Two Spanish peasant boys. N. Poussin, 291. Adoration of the Magi; 295. Inspiration of a poet. 335. Annibale Carracci (Bologna; d. 1609), Virgin, Infant Christ, and St. John. N. Poussin, 300. Education of Jupiter; 305. Triumph of David; 315. Rinaldo and Armida, from Tasso; 310. Flight into Egypt. *306, *307. Raphael, SS. Antony of Padua and Francis of Assisi (retouched); 337. Carlo Dolci (Bologna; d. 1686), Mater Dolorosa; *83. Cuyp, Landscape with figures (bright and calm sun- light); 365. Antonio Belucci (d. 1726), St. Sebastian with Faith and Charity; 309. Velazquez, Portrait of Philip IV. of Spain. Room V. On the left : 327. Andrea del Sarto (d. 1530), Holy Family (repetition of a picture in the Pitti Palace at Florence, and ascribed by 3Ir. Crowe to Salviati) ; 287. Umbrian School, Virgin and Child; 331. Guido Reni (d. 1642), St. John in the wilderness; 336. If. Poussin, Assumption of the Virgin: 240. Van Dyck (ascribed to Rubens), The Graces; 343. After Cristofano Allori (d. 1621), Judith with the head of Holofernes; 339. G. Reni, St. Sebastian; *333. Paolo Veronese (d. 1583), Cardinal blessing a donor; 347. Mtirillo, La Madonna del Rosario; 349. Domenichino, Adoration of the Shepherds; 351. Rubens, Venus, Mars, and Cupid, a late work; 355. School of Rubens, Rubens's mother. Room VI. On the left: 110, 111. Vernet, Landscapes; 361. Gains- borough, Samuel Linley; 46. Teniers the Elder, Landscape with shepherd and sheep; 53, 89. Loutherlourg , Landscapes; 366. Gainsborough, Mrs. Moodey and her two children; 340. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse, painted in 1789. — *1. Gainsborough, Portraits of Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, the daughters of Thomas Linley. Mrs. Tickell sits on a bank, while Mrs. Sheridan stands half behind her. Waagen characterises this work as one of the best specimens of 34. DULWICH. 327 the master, and Mrs. Jameson says : 'The head of Mrs. Sheridan is exquisite, and, without having all the beauty which Sir Joshua gave her in the famous St. Cecilia, there is even more mind\ 215. Wilson, Tivoli; 143. Reijnolds, Mother and sick child; 34. Teniers the Elder, Landscape, with the Magdalene. *102. Daniel Seghers (Antwerp; d. 16G1), Flowers encircling a bas-relief. 'A very admirable picture of this master, so justly celebrated in his own times, and whose red roses still flourish in their original beauty, while those of the later painters, De Heem, Huysum, and Rachel Ruysch, have more or less changed. The vase is probably by Erasmus Quellinus'. — Waagen. 355. Teniers the Elder , Landscape, with the repentant Peter; 362. Oainsborougli, Son of Thomas Linley. Dulwich College, a separate building, contains other old portraits. In the chapel is the tomb of Alleyne, the founder. — Dulwich Park, about 72 acres in extent, was presented to the public by the governors of the college and was opened in June, 1890. — About 6 min. walk beyond the Picture Gallery is the * Greyhound Inn. St. Stephen^s Churchy at Dulwich, contains a fine fresco by E. J. Poynter, R. A. 35. Hampton Court. Richmond. Kew. These places are frequently visited on a Sunday, as the Palace of Hampton Court, with its fine picture-gallery, is one of the few resorts of the kind in or about London which is not closed on that day. One of the best ways to make this excursion is to go to Hampton Court by railway ; to walk through Hampton Court Gardens and Bushy Park to the Teddington station ; to take the train thence to Richmond, and to return to London, via Kew, on the top of an omni- bus ; or, if time permit, we may return by steamboat from Kew (1 1/2-2 lirs. ; fare to Chelsea Is., thence to London Bridge ScZ,). Some of the coaches mentioned at p. 31 pass through Hampton Court. Omnibuses, chars-a-bancs , and brakes ply frequently on Sun. afternoon from Charing Cross, Piccadilly, etc., to Kew (Is.), Rich- mond (Is. Q>d\ and Hampton Coi«rt (2s. 6<i.). Another pleasant round, involving more walking, is as follows: by train to Richmond; drive via Strawberry Hill to Teddington; walk through Bushy Park to Hampton Court and through Richmond Park to Richmond; then back to London by train. Railway. We may travel by the South Western Railway from Waterloo Station to Hampton Court ; or by the North London Railway from Broad Street, City (comp. p. 33), to Kew and Rich- mond, and Teddington (p. 334) ; or by the Metropolitan District Railway from the Mansion House, Charing Cross , Victoria, West- minster, or Kensington to Richmond, and thence to Teddington. The Southwestern Railw^ay (from Waterloo Station to Hamp- ton Court 3/4 hr. ; fares 2s., Is. Qd., Is. 2i/2<^-) runs for a consider- able distance on a viaduct above the streets of London. To the left are the picturesque brick buildings oi Doulton^ 8 Pottery (p. 311) Vauxhall, the first station, is still within the town ; but we emerge 328 35. HAMPTON COURT. from its precincts near (41/2 M.) Clapham Junction, tlie second station. The first glimpse of the pretty scenery traversed by the line is obtained after passing through the long cutting beyond Clapham. The landscape, bordered on the N. by gently sloping hills, and dotted with groups of magnificent trees and numerous comfortable-looking country-houses, affords a charming and thoroughly English picture. To the left is the Victoria Institution for children of soldiers and sailors. — 1^2 M. Wimbledon lies a little to the S. of Wimbledon Common, where the great volunteer rifle-shooting competition was held annually down to 1889, when it was transferred to Bisley, near Woking. Wimbledon House was once occupied by Calonne, the French minister, and afterwards by the Due d'Enghien , who was shot at Vincennes in 1804. About 2/4 M. from the station is a well- preserved fortified camp of cruciform shape, probably of Saxon origin. Beyond Wimbledon a line diverges to the left to Epsom, near which are Epsom Downs , where the great races , the 'Derby' and the 'Oaks', take place annually in May or June (see p. 46). Before reaching (10 M.) Coombe ^ Maiden, we pass, on a height to the right, Coombe House, formerly the property of Lord Liverpool, who in 1815, when Prime Minister, entertained the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia , and the Prince Regent here. About 2 M. beyond (12 M.) Surbiton the branch-line to Hampton Court diverges to the right from the main line, passing Thames Ditton, pleasantly situated in a grassy neighbourhood. On arriving at Hampton Court [Castle, Thames, near the station; Mitre, beyond the bridge, dear; King's Arms, Greyhound, flrst-olass inns, at the entrance to Bushy Park ; Park Cottage ; Queen s Arms, D. from Is. 6d.), we turn to the right, cross the bridge over the Thames, which commands a charming view of the river, and follow the broad road to the Palace on the right. Admission to the Palace, see p. 78. The Gardens are open daily (from 12 on Sun.) until dusk. The Palace, the largest royal palace in Great Britain, was originally founded in 1515 by Cardinal Wolsey, the favourite of Henry VIII., and was afterwards presented by him to the King. It was built of red brick with battlemented walls, and lay on the site of a property mentioned in Do- mesday Book. It was subsequently occupied by Cromwell, the Stuarts, William III., and the first two monarchs of the house of Hanover. In 1604 the Hampton Court Conference between the Puritans and the Episco- palians met here under .Tames I. as moderator. Under Queen Anne the Palace was the scene of the event celebrated in Pope's 'Rape of the Lock'. The present state apartments were built by Sir Christopher Wren to the order of William III., who died in 1702 in consequence of a fall from his horse in the park here. Since the time of George II., Hampton Court has ceased to be a royal residence, and over 800 of its 1000 rooms are now occupied in suites by aristocratic pensioners of the Crown. Approaching from the W., we pass through the Trophy Gates into the Barrack Yard, so named from the low barracks on the left, built by Charles II. and enlarged by William III. In front of us 35. HAMPTON COURT. 329 rises the Oreat Oate-House, recently restored, through which we gain the turfed Oreen or Base Court, the first and largest of the three principal courts comprized in the palace. On the towers of the archways between the different courts are terracotta medallions of Roman emperors (the best being that of Nero), obtained by Wolsey from the sculptor, Joannes Maiano. The fine oriel windows on the outside and inside of the gate-house are Wolsey's originals. Beneath both are the arms of Henry YIH. To the left in Anna Bo- leyn's Oateway, which leads to the next court (see below), is the staircase ascending to the Great Hall, 106 ft. in length, 40 ft. in breadth , and 60 ft. in height, begun by Henry VHI. immediately after the death of Wolsey, and completed in 1536. It contains good stained -glass windows (mostly modern) and fine tapestry repre- senting scenes from the life of Abraham, supposed to be from the designs of B. van Orley. The high-pitched timber *Roof is a noble specimen of the Perpendicular Gothic style. The room at the end is identified as Henry VIII.^s Great Watching Chamber. This and the next room, from which a staircase descends to the kitchens, also contain tapestries. We return to Anne Boleyn's Gateway and enter the Clock Court, above the entrance to which are seen the armorial bearings of Wol- sey, with his motto 'Dominus mihi adjutor'. The court is named from the curious Astronomical Clock, originally constructed for Henry VIII., and recently repaired and set going again. From the S. side of this court we pass through an Ionic colonnade, erected by Wren, to the King^s Grand Staircase, adorned with allegorical paint- ings by Verrio, which ascends to the State Rooms. Umbrellas and sticks are left at the foot of it. The names of the rooms are written above the doors, on the inside; we always begin with the pictures on the left. Visitors are required to pass from room to room in one direction only. The gallery is rich in Italian pictures, especially of the Venetian school, but the names attached to them are often er- roneous. The following list pays no regard to the names on the pictures themselves. Comp. E. Law's 'History of the Palace in Tudor Times' (1885) and 'Historical Catalogue of the Pictures at Hampton Court' (1881). The 'Illustrated Guide' (1893; 1«.) is an abridgment of the latter. Room I. (The Guard Chamoer). The walls are tastefully decorated with trophies and large star-shaped groups of pistols , guns, lances, and other modern weapons. The best of the pictures are : 9. Canaletlo, Colos- seum and Arch of Constantine at Rome; 20. Zucchero, Queen Elizabeth's porter; several battle-pieces by Rugendas. Room II (The King''s First Presence Chamber) contains the canopy of the throne of King William III. The wood-carving above the chimney- piece and doors in this and several of the following rooms is by Grinling Gibbons; the candelabrum dates from the reign of Queen Anne. The upper row of portraits are the so-called 'Hampton Court Beauties', or ladies of the court of William and Mary, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, after the model of the 'Windsor Beauties' of Charles II. 's Court, by Sir Peter Lely, formerly in Windsor Castle, and now in Room VI. of this gallery. The 330 35. HAMPTON COURT. following pictures may also be remarked : 29. Kneller^ William III. land- ing at Torbay, a large allegorical work; 35, 36. i)eraree}'. Portraits ; 39, 52. Schiavone, Frieze-like landscapes with figures; 57. Kneller^ Peter the Great; 58. Unknown Master^ Portraits of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and his family; 60. Unknown Painter^ Man's head; *64. Good Dutch copy, in the style of 3Iabuse, of a sketch by Leonardo da Vinci, Infant Christ and St, John ; 66. De Bray , History of Mare Antony and Cleopatra , the figures being portraits of the artisf s family. Room III. (The Second Presence Chamber). On the left: 69. Tintoretto ., Esther before Ahasuerus; 72. Leandro Sassano , Sculptor; *78. Bonifazio Veronese., Diana and Acteeon in a fanciful landscape, one of the artist's masterpieces; 78. Jacopo Bassano., Dominican; 79. Copy from Titian., Holy Family ; *80. Dosso Bossi., Portrait of a man , well preserved ; *85. Van Dyck., Equestrian portrait of Charles I.; *90. Velazquez, Consort of Philip IV. of Spain; *91. Tintoretto, Knight of Malta; '97. Bosso Bossi., Holy Family; 98. (above the mantel-piece) Van Somer, Christian IV, of Denmark; 104. Pordenone., His own family (dated 1524). Room IV. (The Audience Chamber). On the left: 117. Giov. Bellini (? or of his school; forged signature), Portrait of himself; 113. Titian (?), Ignatius Loyola; *ii^. Lorenzo Lotto, Portrait; *115. Palma Vecchio, Holy Family; 130. Unknown Artist, Portrait; 125. Giorgione (?), Portrait; 128. Eonthorst, Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, wife of Frederick V. of the Pala- tinate (above the mantel-piece); 138. Savoldo, Warrior; 507. Fialetti, Vene- tian senators; *144. Wrongly ascribed to Lor. Lotto, Family concert; *148. Lotto, Portrait of Andrea Ordini. a sculptor; '"149. Titian, Portrait. Room V. (The King''s Brawing Room). On the left: 153. J. Bassano, Boaz and Ruth ; 175. Schiavone, Judgment of Midas ; 182. Master of Tre- viso. Lawyer; *183. Bosso, St. William taking off his armour. Room VI. (King William the Third's Bedroom) contains the bed of Queen Charlotte. The clock in the corner to the left of the bed goes for a year without re-winding; though in good repair it is no longer wound up. On the walls are the 'Beauties'' of the Court of Charles II. , chiefly painted by Lely (comp. Room II.), including 190. Duchess of York (above the mantel-piece); 195. Duchess of Richmond, who was the original of the 'Britannia'' on the reverse of the British copper coins; 196. Marie d'Este (?, misnamed Nell Gwynne); all three by Lely. The ceiling, by Verrio, is emblematic of Sleep. Room VII. (The King's Bressing Room). Ceiling paintings by Verrio., representing Mars, Venus, and Cupid. No. 212. Salv. Rosa, Brigand scene 5 224. Girol. da Treviso, Marriage of the Virgin. Room VIII. (The King's Writing aoset). On the left: 235. Bordone (? more probably Palma Vecchio), Lucretia, injured by repainting; Arte- misia Gentileschi, 227. Sibyl, 226. Her own portrait. The mirror above the chimney-piece here is placed at such an angle as to reflect the whole suite of rooms. Room IX. (Queen Mary''s Closet). On the left: 251. GiuUo Romano, Holy Family; 267. Butch Master, Sophonisba. Room X (The Queen''s Gallery) is a hall, 69 ft. long and 26 ft. broad, with tapestry representing scenes from the life of Alexander the Great, after Le Brun. Room XI (The Queen''s Bedroom) contains Queen Anne''s bed, and has a ceiling painted by Thornhill, representing Aurora rising from the sea. To the left: '276. Correggio, Holy Family, with St. Jerome on the left, a small and admirable work of the painter''s early period. L. Giordano, 278. Offerings of the Magi; 288, 292. Myth of Cupid and Psyche, in 12 small pictures. *307. Francesco Francia, Baptism of Christ. Room XII (The Queen\<t Brawing Room), with ceiling painted by Verrio, representing Queen Anne as the Goddess of Justice. The windows command a fine view of the gardens and canal (3/4 M. long). The pictures are all by West: above the door, 309. Duke of Cumberland and his two sisters, when children; 314. Peter denying his Master; 320. Death of General Wolfe (duplicate of the original in Grosvenor House); 321. Queen Charlotte ; 322. Prince of Wales and Duke of York. 35. HAMPTON COURT. 331 Room XIII. (The Queen's Audience Chamber). On the left: 329. P. Snayers, Battle of Forty; ^33L Palamedes, Embarking from Scheveningen. Holbein. 269. (?) Countess of Lennox, mother of Lord Darnley; -340. Henry VIII. and his family; 342. Meeting of Henry VIII. and Francis I. of France, at the Field of the Cloth of Gold. 798. Mytens, Portrait of the dwarf Sir Jeffery Hudson (immortalised in Scott's 'Peveril of the Peak'). Room XIV. (TJie Public Dining Room). On the left: 354. Beechey, George HI. reviewing the 10th Dragoons , the Prince of Wales on the right and the Duke of York on the left; 560. Zucchero., Mary, (^ueen of Scots; 361. Knapton., Family of Frederick, Prince of Wales (the boy with the plan on his knee is George HI.); above the fire-place, 663. Van Dyck, Cupid and Psyche; 363. Sir T. Lawrence., F. von Gentz; 365. Walker., Portrait of himself ; 366. G'atresdoroMg'A, Jewish Rabbi ; 369. Michael Wright, John Lacy, comedian, in three characters ; 376. Dobson, Portrait of himself and his wife. We proceed in a straight direction; 'the door to the left leads to the Queen's Chapel, etc. (see below). Room XV. (Tlie Prince of Wales''s Presence Chamber). On the left. 380. N. Poussin, Nymphs and Satyrs. Rembrandt, 381. Rabbi; 382. Dutch lady. *385. Mabuse, Adam and Eve; 404. Heemskerck, Quakers' meeting. Room XVI. (The Prince of Wales's Drawing Room). On the left: 40r. Van Belchamp, Louis XIII. of France; 4il. Pourbus, Mary de' Medici; 413. Oreuze, Louis XVI. of France ; 423. Claude Lorrain, Sea-port; 418. Pourbus, Henry IV. of France; 429. Qreuze, Madame de Pompadour; above , 428. Mignard, Louis XIV., as a youth. Room XVII. (The Prince of Wales''s Bedroom) contains tapestry re- presenting the Battle of Solebay (1672), and a few portraits. We now return to Room XIV (Public Dining Room), and pass through the door on the right, indicated by notices pointing the 'Way Out'. Qdeen's Private Chapel. On the left : *463. Eondecoeter, Birds ; 464. Snyders, Still-life ; De Heem, *467, 469. Still-life pieces. — The Bathing Closet adjoining the chapel contains the queen's marble bath. The Private Dining Room contains three bright red beds (William HI.'s to the left; Queen Mary's to the right; George II. 's in the middle), and some portraits, including one of the Duchess of Brunswick, sister of George HI., by Angelica Kaufmann (502). Adjoining it is a Closet with 12 saints by Feti (506). Qdeen's Private Chamber. In the centre: *106. Unknown Flemish or German Master, Triptych with the Crucifixion in the centre, the Bearing of the Cross to the left, the Resurrection to the right, and the Ecce Homo on the exterior, of admirable colouring. The King's Private Dress- ing Room contains some poor copies of various well-known works and a bust of a negro. We then pass through George II.'s Private Room, with fruit and flower pieces, and a dark corner room into the long — SoDTH Gallery, where Raphael's famous cartoons, now at South Kensington (p. 296), were preserved until 1865. It is divided into five sections by partitions, and contains the most valuable smaller pictures of the collection. Section I.: *561. Janet, Queen Eleanor of France ; 563. Holbein (?), Henry VIII., as a youth; 576. Van Orley, Death of Adonis; 579. Hemmessen, St. Jerome; 581. Mazzolini of Ferrara, Turkish warrior; 578. Schoreel, Virgin and Child. SS. Andrew and Michael. — Section II. : 588. Cranach, The Judgment of Paris; *610. Holbein, Reskemeer (the hands beautifully painted) ; *589. Diirer, Portrait; *590. School of Van Eyck, Head of a young man; ~595. Mabuse, Children of Christian II. of Denmark; 601. Remie (Antwerp ; d. 1678), Henry VII. and his queen Elizabeth, Henry VIII. and his queen Jane Seymour, copy of a fresco by Holbein in Whitehall, which was burned with that palace; 600. L. Cranach, St. Christopher and other saints; 602. Lucas v. Leyden, Joseph in prison. Holbein: '603. Fro- benius (the famous printer); '-'608. The artist's parents. 676. School of Frans Hals, Portrait; 629, 637. Gonzales Coques, Portraits; 634. Hendrik Pot, Play scene (the actor here is supposed to be Charles I.); 638. Van Dyck, Dying saint. — Section III. : 654. After Rubens, Venus and Adonis; 657. Verdussen,W\nisnT Castle; 662. Molenaer, Dutch merry-making; 666. Ascribed to Holbein, Face at a window, misnamed Will Somers, court 332 35. HAMPTON COURT. jester of Henry VIIl. ; 680. Rottenhammer, Judgment of Paris ; 684. Withoos, Flower-piece (1665). — Section IV. : 698. Everdingen (?), Landscape j 707. Janssen, Villi ers , Duke of Buckingham; 710. Dutch Master^ Portrait (de- scribed by the Catalogue as a portrait of Raphael by himself !) 5 734. P. Brill., Landscape; 731. J. B. Weenix , Dead game. — Section V.: 744. Roestraeten, Still-life (the earthenware jug very fine); 745,754. W. van de Velde, Sea- pieces (sketches); *746. Wynants , Landscape; 748. Brueghel the Elder., Slaughter of the Innocents, thoroughly Dutch in conception; 751. Hol- bein , Landscape ; 769. James I. , copy of a painting by an unknown artist in Ham House. Above, opposite the window, 704. Snyders, Boar-hunt. We now pass through a small, dark chamber on the right, and enter the last long gallery, called the — **Mantegna GrALLERY, which coutains the gem of the whole collec- tion, the Triumphal Procession of Caesar, by Mantegna (Nos. 873-81), extending the whole length of the wall, and protected by glass. The series of pictures, painted in distemper upon linen, is in parts sadly defaced, and has also been retouched. Mantegna began the work, which was in- tended for stage-scenery, in 1485, and finished it in 149()-92. The series was purchased by Charles I. along with the rest of the Duke of Mantua's collection in 1628, and valued by the Parliament after the king's death at lOOOL It was rescued by Cromwell, along with Raphael's cartoons. Section I. Beginning of the procession with trumpeters, standard- bearers, and warriors ; on the flag-poles paintings of the victories of Csesar. — II. Statues of Jupiter and Juno in chariots, bust of Cybele, war- like instruments. — III. Trophies of war; weapons, urns, tripods, etc. — IV. Precious vessels and ornaments ; oxen led by pages ; train of musicians. — V. Elephants bearing fruit, flowers, and candelabra. — VI. Urns, armour, etc. borne in triumph. — VII. Procession of the captives; men, women, and children, and mocking figures among the populace. — VIII. Dancing musicians, standard-bearers with garlands; among them a soldier of the German Legion, bearing a standard with the she-wolf of Rome. — IX. Julius Caesar., with sceptre and palm-branch, in a triumphal car; behind him Victoria; on his standard the legend. 'Veni, vidi, vici\ 'With a stern realism, which was his virtue, Mantegna multiplied illustrations of the classic age in a severe and chastened style, balancing his composition with the known economy of the Greek relief, conserving the dignity of sculptural movement and gait, and the grave marks of the classic statuaries, modifying them though but slightly with the newer accent of Donatello. . . . His contour is tenuous and fine and remarkable for a graceful and easy flow; his clear lights, shaded with grey, are blended with extraordinary delicacy, his colours are bright and varie- gated, yet thin, spare, and of gauzy substance.' — Crowe and Cavalcaselle. The Mantegna Gallery also contains a few other paintings, including portraits of Jane Shore, mistress of Edward IV. fNo. 793; immediately to the right of tbe door by which we enter) and of Christian, Duke of Brunswick, in his youth (No. 569; by Honthorst). To the left, at the end of this gallery, is Cardinal Wolsex's Closet, with a fine ceiling, panelled walls, and a frieze of paintings on panel from the History of the Passion. We now pass the top of the Qdeen's Staircase, embellished with ceiling-paintings by Vick., and a large picture by Honthorst., representing Charles I. and his wife as Apollo and Diana, and reach two other rooms, which contain the remainder of the pictures. Room I. (The Queen^s Ouard Chamber). On the left: 811. Ciro Ferri, Triumph of Bacchus ; 815, 816. Portraits of Giulio Romano and Michael Angelo; 818. Milani, Portrait of a child; 819. Portrait of Tintoretto; 824. Kneller, John Locke; 839. Battoni., Pope Benedict XIV.; 842. Frederick the Great; 846. Kneller, Sir Isaac Newton; 850. Romanelli, after Ouido Reni, Triumph of Venus, with Bacchus and Ariadne; 862. Lelp, Portrait of himself. The wrought-iron railings, long ascribed to Huntington Shaw (p. 300) but more probably by Jean Tljou, are two of twelve formerly in the gardens. — We now pass through a small Ante-Room into — 35. HAMPTON COURT. 333 Boom II (The Queen's Presence Chamber)^ with sea-pieces : 871. Zuc- ehero, Adoration of the Shepherds; 873. Post, View in the "West Indies. W. van de Velde, *879. British ship engaged with three Spanish vessels; 880. Close of the same action. 884. James, View on the Thames, comprising; old London Bridge; 898, 899. Euggins, Battle of Trafalgar. W. van de Velde, 902. British fleet attacking the French fleet in a harbour; *910. Burning of a fleet. 887. S. van Ruysdael, River in Holland ; 912. W. van de Velde, Boats attacking the Dutch fleet in a harbour. Here also are two pieces of timber from Nelson's flag-ship, the Victory/. We now return and descend the Queen's Staircase, at the foot of -which we turn to the left and enter the Fountain Court, sur- rounded by cloisters, huilt by Wren. On the S. wall are twelve circular paintings of the Labours of Hercules, by Laguerre, now almost obliterated. Farther on we enter the gardens, in front of the E. facade of the Palace. The * Garden is laid out in the French style, and embellished with tasteful flower-beds and shady avenues. Immediately opposite the centre of the fagade is the Long Canal, 3/^ M. long and 150 ft. wide, constructed lay Charles II. On each side of the canal is the House Park. — In the Privy Garden, on the S. side of the Palace, is exhibited a vine of the Black Hamburgh variety, planted in 1768, the stem of which is 38 in. in circumference, and the branches of which spread over an area of 2200 sq. ft. The yield of this gigantic vine amounts annually to 1200 or 1300 bunches of grapes, weigh- ing about ^/4lb. each. — The old Tennis Court, opening from the garden to the N. of the Palace, is still used. The Maze (adm. id.'), or labyrinth, in the so-called Wilderness to the N. of the Palace, may be successfully penetrated by keeping in- variably to the left, except the first time we have an option , when we keep to the extreme right ; in coming out, we keep to the right, till we reach the same place, when we turn to the left. On leaving Hampton Court by the Lion Gates, near the Maze, wee see immediately opposite one of the entrances to Bushy Park, a royal domain of about 1000 acres. There are three other gates : viz. one near Teddington , one at Hampton Wick (p. 339) , and one at Hampton village. Its white-thorn trees in blossom are very beautiful, but its chief glory is in the end of spring or in early sum- mer, when the horse-chestnuts are in full bloom, affording a sight quite unequalled in England (usually announced in the London papers). These majestic old trees, planted by William III. and interspersed with limes, form a triple avenue, of more than a mile in length, from Hampton Court to Teddington. Near the Hampton Court end of the avenue is a curious basin with carp and gold-fish. The deer in the park, never being molested, are so tame that they scarcely exert themselves to get out of the -way of visitors. They even thrust their heads in at the open windows of theihouses that look on the park, insisting on being fed. The residence of the ranger is a sombre red brick house, screened off by railings, near one margin of the park. 334 35. RICHMOND. We turn to the left on quitting the park. The road almost im- mediately forks , -when we keep to the right , and then take the second turning on the right, passing the garden of the Clarence Hotel and leading to (I74 M.) Teddington Station. The train from Teddington to Richmond passes Strawberry Hill (p. 339), Twicken- ham (p. 3393, and St. Margaret's. From Richmond to London by rail, see p. 327. — The walk from Teddington to (3 M.) Richmond is very picturesque (fine cedars). Carriage from Hampton Court to Teddington 2s. Qd., to Richmond 6s. Waggonettes ply through Bushy Park between Hampton Court and Teddington (fare 2d.); omnibus to Richmond and Kew, see p. 327. Richmond (*Star and Garter, with fine view from the ter- race, expensive; Queen's, opposite; * Talbot Hotel ; Roebuck; sev- eral tea-gardens and coffee-houses ; 'Maids of honour ', a favourite kind of cake) may be reached direct from London by the South Western Railway (N. Entrance, p. 34), the North London Railway from Broad St. (p. 33), or the Metropolitan District Railway every half-hour, by a Richmond omnibus [fare Is.), or, in summer, by the steamboat. It is a small town on the right bank of the Thames, charmingly situated on the slope of a hill. Ascending the broad main street of the town to the right, we reach, at the top of the hill, a fine park, terrace, and avenue, commanding a beautiful *View. Pretty walks also wind along the opposite bank of the Thames, and the grounds formerly belonging to the Duke of Buccleuch were opened as a public garden in May, 1887. A Theatre, -mth. accom- modation for 800 spectators, was opened in 1890 in the grounds of the Old Castle Hotel. Pop. (1891) 22,684. The original name of the place was Sheen ('beautiful'), which still survives in the neighbouring East Sheen. Edward I. possessed a palace here, which was rebuilt in 1499 by Henry VII., the founder of the Tudor dynasty, who named it Richmond, after his own title. Henry YIII. and his daughter Elizabeth often held their courts in this palace, and the latter died here in 1603. In 1648 the palace was demolished by order of Parliament, and all that now remains of it is a stone gateway in Richmond Green. Richmond is a favourite summer-resort, both of Londoners and strangers ; and its large park, 2255 acres in area, and 8 M. in cir- cumference, is frequented in fine weather by crowds of pedestrians, horsemen, and carriages. Large herds of deer here also add to the charms of the park. Pembroke Lodge in this park was the seat of Lord John Russell (d. 1878). — The small church of Richmond contains the tombs of James Thomson, the poet of the 'Seasons', and Edmund Kean, the famous actor (d. 1833). From Richmond we may take the omnibus (Qd. outside) or tram- way (2d. ; from the N. end of the town) to Kew [Star and Garter; Kew Gardens Hotel, close to Kew Gardens Station, R. & A. 8s., B. 23., also 'pension'), the beautiful *Botanic Gardens of which are 35. KEW GARDENS. 335 open gratis daily from noon (on Sundays from 1 p.m.) till sunset; the hothouses are open daily from 1 p.m. — Kew is reached from London direct by any of the routes to Richmond [see p. 327). The present Director of the gardens is Dr. W. T. Thiselton Dyer, whose predecessors were the distinguished botanists Sir Joseph D. Hooker and Sir William J. Hooker. Kew has two railway-stations, Kew Bridge Station on the left, and Kew Gardens Station on the right bank of the Thames. Leav- ing the first of these, we cross the Thames to Kew Green, and thence proceed to the right to the principal entrance of the Gardens, near which is Kew Cottage. From Kew Gardens station a short road leads direct to the Lichfield Gate, which is visible from the station. Visitors may not bring eatables into the Gardens, or pluck even the wild flowers. Smoking is strictly prohibited in the houses, but is permitted both ^n the Gardens and in the Arboretum (see below). The path to the right on entering by the principal gate leads straight to Kew PaZoce (see below). To the left lie the Botanic (rardens, with numerous hothouses, where the ferns, orchids, and cacti are particularly interesting. By the pond, at the S. end of the Gardens, are the *Palm House (362 ft. long, 100 ft. broad, and 66 ft. high), where the temperature is kept at 80° Fahr., and the Water Lily House. A little to the N. of the artificial piece of water is the Tropical House, containing the tank for the Victoria Regia, which flowers in August. There are also three Botanical Museums in different parts of the Gardens. To the S. and W.of the Botanic Gardens proper, and sep- arated from them by a wire -fence, lies the Arboretum, covering an area of 178 acres, which extends to the Thames, and is inter- sected in every direction by shady walks and avenues. In the N. part is a small American Garden, with magnolias and fine azaleas (best about the end of May). On the path leading from the pond towards the Richmond Gate, the elegant North Gallery, the gift of Miss North (d. 1891), was opened in 1882. It contains, in geographical sequence , a most interesting collection of tropical flowers , etc., sketched by Miss North in their native localities (catalogue 3ci.). The* Winder Garden, or Temperate House, built in 1865 at a cost of 35,000i, is designed for keeping plants of the temperate zone during winter. The central portion is 212ft. long, 137 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high ; with the wings the total length is 582 ft. At the S. extrem- ity of the Arboretum is the Pagoda, rising in ten stories to a height of 165 ft., the summit of which, in clear weather, commands the environs for 30 M. round (no admission). Near the Pagoda is a Refreshment Pavilion (tea, ices, etc.). Both the Gardens and the Arboretum contain a number of small ornamental Temples. Kexo Palace, a quaint red brick building to the N. of the gardens, was a favourite residence of George III. and of Queen Charlotte, who died here in 1818. — The church of Kew, built in 1814, contains an organ presented by George IV., on which Handel is said to have 336 36. THE THAMES. played. Gainsborough (d. 1788), the artist, is buried in the church- yard. Cambridge Cottage was the residence of the aged Duchess of Cambridge (d. 1889). On the left bank of the Thames lies Brentford (p. 338), the official county town of Middlesex. Its name often occurs in English literature; thus the 'two Kings of Brentford on one throne' are mentioned by Cowper and in the 'Rehearsal'. Adjacent is Sion House, a place of great historic interest, which was a nunnery in the 15th cent., and is now the property of the Duke of Northumberland. A footpath on the right bank of the Thames leads through Old Bichmond Park, with the Kew Observatory, to Richmond. 36. The Thames fromLondon Bridge to Hampton Gonrt. Steamboats are advertised to ply in summer, tide permitting, from London Bridge to Hampton Cowri (22 M. in 2-3 hrs.; fare Is. 6d., return 2s. 6d.)j but they are often unable to proceed farther than Kew. By embark- ing at Chelsea or Battersea Park the traveller may shorten the trip by about 1 hour. The scenery, after London is fairly left behind, is of a very soft and pleasing character, consisting of luxuriant woods, smiling meadows, and picturesque villas and villages. The course of the river is very tortuous. The words right and left in the following description are used with reference to going upstream. Rowing and Sailing Boats may be hired at Richmond, Kingston, Hampton Wick, and several other places on the river, the charges vary- ing according to the season, the size of the boat, etc. (previous under- standing advisable). The prettiest part of the river near London for short boating excursions is the stretch between Richmond and Hampton Court. A trifling fee, which may be ascertained from the official table posted at each lock (3rf.-ls. for rowing-boats), has to be paid for passing the locks. Rowing-boats going upstream generally keep near the bank to escape the current. Boats pass each other to the right, but a boat overtaking another one keeps to the left. For the river above Hampton Court, see Baedeler^s Handbook to Great . Britain. The prominent objects on both banks of the Thames between London Bridge and Battersea Bridge have already been pointed out 'n various parts of the Handbook, so that nothing more is required here than a list of them in the order in which they occur, with references to the pages where they are described : — South Eastern Railway Bridge, Southwark Bridge (p. 120), St. PauVs Cathedral (right; p. 81), London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge (p. 117), Blackfriars Bridge (p. 117), Victoria Embankment (right; p. 115), the City of London School (right; p. 116), the Temple (right; p. 141), with the new Law Courts (p. 144) appearing above it, Somerset House (right; p. 146), Waterloo Bridge (p. 147), Cleopatra's Needle (right; p. 116), Charing Cross Railway Bridge, Montague House (right ; p. 191), New Scotland Yard (right; p. 191), Westminster Bridge (p. 199), Houses of Parliament (right; p. 191), Westminster Abbey (right ; p. 200), Albert Embankment (left; p. 116), St. Thomas's Hospital (left; p. 310), Lambeth Palace (left; p. 310), Lambeth Bridge (p. 310), Vauxhall Bridge (p. 304), 36. FULHAM. 337 London , Chatham , and Dover Railway Bridge (Orosvenor Road Bridge^ p. 304), Chelsea Suspension Bridge (p. 304), Battersea Park (left; p. 812), Chelsea Hospital [right] p. 304), Albert Bridge (p. 304), Battersea Bridge (p. 304). A little -way above Battersea is another Railway Bridge, beyond wbicb we reach Wandsworth Bridge and — L, Wandsworth (railway-station, see p. 351), an outlying suburb of London, containing a large number of factories and brew- eries. The scenery now begins to become more rural in character, and the dusky hues of the great city give place to the green tints of meadow and woodland. About 1 M. above "Wandsworth the river is spanned by Putney Bridge, erected in 1886, connecting Fulham, on the right, with Putney, on the left. R. Fulham is principally noted for containing a country residence of the Bishops of London, who have been lords of the manor from very early times. The Episcopal Palace, which stands above the bridge, dates in part from the 16th century. Its grounds contain some fine old trees, and are enclosed by a moat about 1 M. in circumference. In the library are portraits of Sandys, Archbishop of York, Laud, Ridley the martyr, and other ecclesiastics, chiefly Bishops of London. The first bishop who is known with certainty to have resided here was Robert Seal, in 1241. A handsome, but somewhat incongruous, chapel was added to the palace in 1867. Fulham Church has a tower of the 14th cent. , and contains the tombs of numerous Bishops of London. In a house at the N. end of Fulham, on the road to Hammersmith, Richardson wrote 'Clarissa Harlowe'. In Fulham (Parson's Green station, p. 47) are the pleasant pre- mises of the Hurlingham Club, with grounds for pigeon-shooting, polo, lawn-tennis, etc. L. Putney (railway-station, p. 351) is well known to Londoners as the starting-point for the annual boat-race between Oxford and Cambridge universities (p. 48), which takes place on the river be- tween this village and Mortlake (p. 338). Thomas Cromwell, Wolsey's secretary, and afterwards Earl of Essex, was the son of a Putney blacksmith ; and Edward Gibbon, the historian, was born here in 1737. In 1806 William Pitt died at Bowling Green House, on the S. side of the town, near Putney Heath, where, eight years before, he had engaged in a duel with George Tierney. Lord C;istlereagh and George Canning also fought a duel on the heath in 1809. The tower of Putney Church is about 400 years old. 'Beautiful walk from Putney over Putney Heath, through the village of Roehampton (IV2M. to the S.) and Richmond Park, to (4M.) Richmond. The fine old house, called Barnes Eims, which we now soon observe on the left, was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Fran- cis Walsingham , who entertained his sovereign lady here on various occasions. It was afterwards occupied by Jacob Tonson, the publisher, who built a room here for the famous portraits of the Kit-Cat Club, painted for him by Sir Godfrey Kneller (p. 340). On the opposite bank, a little farther on, formerly stood Brandenbzirgh Eouse, built in the time of Charles 1. 5 it was once inhabited by Fairfax Baedekbe, London. 9th Edit. 22 338 36. OHISWICK. the Parliameutary general, by Queen Caroline, consort of George IV., who died here in 1821, and by various other notabilities. R. Hammersmitli (railway-station), now a town of considerable size , but of little interest to strangers. The Church of St. Paul, consecrated in 1631, containing some interesting monuments , a ceiling painted by Cipriani, and an altarpiece carved by Grinling Gibbons , was pulled down in 1882 to make room for a new and larger edifice. The town contains numerous Roman Catholic in- habitants and institutions. Some of the houses in the Mall date from the time of Queen Anne. Hammersmith is connected by a suspension-bridge with the cluster of villas called Castelnau. R. Chiswick (railway-station, p. 351) contains the gardens of the Horticultural Society (p. 282). Opposite Chiswick lies Chis- wick Eyot. In Chiswick House., the property of the Duke of Devonshire, Charles James Fox died in 1806 , and George Canning in 1827. It was built by the Earl of Burlington , the builder of Burlington House, Piccadilly (p. 228), in imitation of the Villa Capra at Vicenza, one of Palladio's best works. The wings , by Wyatt , were added aftervs^ards. — The church- yard contains the grave of Hogarth, the painter (d. 1764), who died in a dwelling near the church, now called Hogarth House. L. Barnes (railway-station, p. 351), a village with a church partly of the 12th cent., freely restored, and possessing a modern, ivy-clad tower. At the next bend lies — L. Mortlake (rail, stat., p. 351), with a church occupying the site of an edifice of the 14th cent.; the tower dates from 1543. In the interior is a tablet to Sir Philip Francis (d. 1818), now usually identified with Junius, Mortlake is the terminus of the University Boat Race course (comp. p. 337). The two famous astrologers, Dee and Partridge, resided at Mortlake, where Qiieen Elizabeth is said to have consulted the first-named. — 'Pleasant walk through (S.) East Sheen to Richmond Park. L. Kew (p. 334) has a railway-station on the opposite bank, -with which a stone bridge connects it. Picturesque walk to Richmond. R. Brentford (p. 336), near which is Sion House (p. 336). R. Isleworth (rail, stat.), a favourite residence of London merchants, with numerous villas and market-gardens. The woods and lawns on the banks of the river in this neighbourhood are par- ticularly charming. The course of the stream is from N. to S. A new lock, the first on the river, was opened here in 1894; beyond it we pass under a railway-bridge, and then a stone bridge, the latter at — L. Richmond (see p. 334) ; boats may be hired here (p. 336). L. Petersham (Dysart Arms) , with a red brick church , in a quaint classical style, dating from 1505. Close to the church is Ham House (Earl of Dysart), also of red brick, with its back to the river, the meeting-place of the Cabal during its tenancy by the Duke of Lauderdale. A little farther from the river stands Sudbrook House, built by the Duke of Argyll (d. 1743) , and now a hydropathic establishment. It is 36. TWICKENHAM. 339 immortalised by Scott in the 'Heart of Midlothian' , as the scene of the interview between Jeanie Deans and the Duke. On the opposite bank of the Thames is — R. Twickenham {Railway; King^s Head ; Albany ; White Swan, by the river), with a great number of interesting historical villas and mansions. The name most intimately associated with the place is that of Pope, whose villa, however , has been replaced by an- other, while his grotto is also altered. The poet was buried in the old parish church, and its present modern successor still contains his monument, erected by Bishop Warburton in 1761. On the out- side wall of the church is a tablet placed by Pope in memory of his nurse who served him for 38 years. Kitty Clive, the actress, is also buried in the churchyard. Near the site of Pope's villa stands Or- leans House, a building of red brick, once the residence of Louis Philippe and other members of the Orleans family, and now used by the Orleans Club (p. 74) as a pleasant country resort for mem- bers, their families, and their friends. Farther up the river, about Y2 M. above Twickenham, is Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole's famous villa ; it was long the residence of the late Countess Walde- grave, who collected here a great many of the objects of art which adorned it in Walpole's time. Among other celebrities connected with Twickenham is Henry Fielding, the novelist. Eel Pie Island (Inn), opposite Twickenham, is a favourite resort of picnic parties. R. Teddington (p. 334), with the second lock on the Thames and a new foot-bridge (opened in 1889). L. Kingston^Griffin ; Sun ;Wheatsheaf ; vaA\. stat., p. 351), an old Saxon town, where some of the early kings of England were crowned. In the market-place, surrounded by an ornamental iron railing, is the Stone which is said to have been used as the king's seat during the coronation ceremony. The names of those believed to have been crowned here are carved on the stone. The Town Hall is an imposing edifice, built in 1840. The Church of All Saints is a fine cruciform structure, dating in part from the 14th century. Kingston is united with Hampton Wick on the other bank, by a stone bridge, con- structed in 1827. It is surrounded by numerous villas and country- residences, and is a favourite resort of Londoners in summer. Rowing and sailing boats may be hired either at Kingston or Hamp- ton Wick. — Pleasant walks to Bam Common, and through Bushy Park to (2 M.) Hampton Court. — The Guildford coach (p. 31) passes through Kingston. Steaming past Surbiton, the southern suburb of Kingston, and Thames Ditton (p. 328), on the left, we now arrive at the bridge crossing the river at — Hampton Court, see p. 328. (The village of Hampton lies on the right, about 1 M. farther up.) 22* 340 37. Hamp stead. Highgate. The visitor should go to Hampstead by omnibus (p. 30) or train (North London Eailway, from Broad Street), and walk thence to Highgate. The two Mils of Hampstead and Highgate, lying to the N. of London, are well worth visiting for the extensive views they com- mand of the metropolis and the surrounding country. The village of Hampstead ('home - stead'), has been long since reached by the ever advancing suburbs of London , from which it can now scarcely be distinguished. It is an ancient place, known as early as the time of the Eomans ; and various Roman antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly at the mineral wells. These wells (in Well Walk, to the E. of the High Street) were discovered or re-discovered about 1620, and for a time made Hampstead a fashionable spa ; the old well-house is now used as a church. Well Walk also contains the house in which John Keats and his brother lodged in 1817-1818, and at the bottom of John Street , near Hampstead Heath Station, is Lawn Bank (then called Wentworth Place), where Keats lived with his friend Charles Brown in 1818-20. Part of 'Endymion' was written in the first of these, and much of Keats's finest work, including parts of 'Hype- rion' and the 'Eve of St. Agnes', was done at Lawn Bank. Leigh Hunt long lived in a cottage in the Vale of Health, a cluster of houses in the centre of the S. part of the heath. The parish church of St. John dates from 1747, and with its square tower forms a conspicuous object in the view from many parts of London. It contains a bust of Keats, by Miss Anne Whitney of Boston (XJ. S. A.), placed here in 1894 by a few American admirers of the poet. In the churchyard are buried Sir James Mackintosh (d. 1832), Joanna Bailie (d. 1851), her sister Agnes (d. 1861, aged 100 years), and Constable, the painter (d. 1837), who has left many painted memorials of his love for Hampstead (see, e.gr., his pictures of Hampstead in the National Gallery, p. 180). The well-known Kit-Cat Club, which numbered Addison, Steele, and Pope among its members, held its first meetings in a tavern at Hampstead. *Hampstead Heatli (430 ft. above the sea -level) is one of the most open and picturesque spots in the immediate neigh- bourhood of London, and is a favourite and justly valued resort of holiday-makers and all who appreciate pure and invigorating air. The heath is about 240 acres in extent. Its wild and irregular beauty, and picturesque alternations of hill and hollow, make it a refreshing contrast to the trim elegance of the Parks. The heath was once a notorious haunt of highwaymen. Some years ago the lord of the manor began to lay out the heath for building purposes ; but fortunately his intention was frustrated, and the heath pur- chased by the Metropolitan Board of Works for the unrestricted use of the public. Parliament Hill, to the S.E. of the heath proper has also been acquired for the public. Near the ponds at the S.E. 37. HAMPSTEAD. 341 corner of the heath, the Fleet Brook (p. 137) takes its rise. The garden of the Bull and Bush Inn, on the N. margin of the heath, contains a holly planted by Hogarth, the painter; and ^Jack Straw's Castle^, on the highest part of the heath, is another inter- esting old inn. On puhlic holidays Hampstead Heath is generally visited by 25-50,000 Londoners and presents a gay and character- istic scene of popular enjoyment. The* View is extensive and interesting. On the S. lies London, with the dome of St. Paul's and the towers of Westminster rising conspicuously from the dark masses of houses; while beyond may be discerned the green hills of Surrey and the glittering roof of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. The varied prospect to the W. includes Harrow -on -the -Hill (p. 345; distinguishable by the lofty spire on an isolated eminence), and, in clear weather, Windsor Castle itself. To the N. lies a fertile and well -peopled tract, studded with numerous villages and houses and extending to Highwood Hill, Totteridge, and Barnet. To the E., in immediate proximity, we see the sister hill of Highgate, and in clear weather we may descry the reach of the Thames at Gravesend. We leave Hampstead Heath at the N. end, near 'Jack Straw^s Castle', and follow Heath or Spaniards^ Road leading to the N.E. to Highgate. We soon reach, on the left , the ^Spaniards' Inn\ the gathering point of the 'No Popery' rioters of 1780 , and described by Dickens in 'Barnaby Rudge'. The stretch of road between 'Jack Straw's Castle' and this point is perhaps the most open and elevated near London, affording fine views to the N.W. and S.E. The road then leads between Caen Wood, with its fine old oaks, on the right, and Bishop's Wood on the left. Caen Wood or Ken Wood House, was the seat of the celebrated judge. Lord Mansfield, who died here in 1793. Bishop's Wood once formed part of the park of the Bishops of London. We now pass the grounds of Caen Wood Towers on the right, and reach Highgate. There is also a pleasant path fi-om Hampstead to Highgate leading past the Ponds and over Pavliament Hill, an extension of Hampstead Heath on the S.E., bounded on the E. by Highgate Road, Highgate , which is situated on a hill about 30 ft. lower than Hampstead Heath, is one of the healthiest and most favourite sites for villas in the outskirts of London. The view which it commands is similar in character to that from Hampstead, but not so fine. The new church, built in the Gothic style in 1833, is a handsome edifice, and, from its situation, very conspicuous. The Highgate or North London "^Cemetery, lying on the slope of the hill just below the church, is very picturesque and tastefully laid out. The catacombs are in the Egyptian style, with cypresses, and the terraces afford a fine view. Michael Faraday, the great chemist (d. 1867; by the E, wall), Lord Lyndhurst (d. 1863), and George Eliot (d. 1880) are buried here. Samuel Taylor Coleridge (d. 1834) is interred in a vault below the adjacent Grammar School, which, founded in 1565, was lately 342 37. HIGHGATE. rebuilt in the French Gothic style. Near the top of Highgate Hill is St. Josepli's Retreat^ the chief seat of the Passionist Fathers in Eng- land, with a handsome new church opened in 1891. The Whitiington Almshouses at the foot of the hill were established by the famous Lord Mayor of that name , and are popularly supposed to occupy the very spot where he heard the bells inviting him to return. Close by is the stone on which he is said to have rested, now forming part of a lamp-post ; it is needless to say that its identity is more than doubtful. The Highgate Gravel Pit Wood^ 70 acres in extent, was opened as a public park in 1886. Many of the walks around Higligate are picturesque and inter- esting. Among the houses in the vicinity we may mention Eolli/ Lodge, the residence of Baroness Burdett Coutts ; Cromwell House , said to have been built for CromwelFs son-in-law, General Ireton, and now a Convalescent Hospital for Children ; Lauderdale House, where Nell Gwynne lived ; and the third house to the right in the 'Grove', where Coleridge died. Waterlow JPark, 29 acres in extent, in which Lauderdale House stands, was formerly the grounds of Fairseat House, the residence of Sir Sydney "Waterlow, and was presented to the public by that gentleman in 1891. Arundel House, where the great Lord Bacon died, has disappeared. Highgate used to be notorious for a kind of mock pilgrimage made to it for the purpose of 'swearing on the horns.'' By the terms of his oath the pilgrim was bound never to kiss the maid when he could kiss the mistress, never to drink small beer when he could get strong, etc., 'unless he liked it best'. Some old rams' heads are still preserved at the inns. Byron alludes to this custom in 'Childe Harold', Canto I. Highgate station , on the Great Northern Railway , lies to the E. of the town, and is daily passed by numerous trains. Omnibuses (p. 30) and Tramways (p. 31) ply from the foot of Highgate Hill to Tottenham Court Road, King's Cross, and Gray's Inn Road. About 2 M. off, on the elevated ground to the E. of Muswell Hill and N. of Hornsey, is the Alexandra Palace (closed at present), an estab- lishment resembling the Crystal Palace, with a large park , theatre and concert hall, panorama, etc. 38. Epping Forest. Waltham Abbey. Rye House. Oreat Eastern Railway to (12 M.") Loughton, in 1 hr. (fares 2s. Ic?., Is. Id., is. ^I'id.). From Loughton, which may also be reached from Chalk Farm and other stations of the North London Railway (via Dalston Junc- tion), on foot, through Epping Forest, to (5 M.) Waltham Abbey. From Waltham Abbey to (b M.) Rye House by railway. From Rye House back to (19 M.) London by railway (fares 3s. ^d., 2s. lOd., Is. 7d.1. We may start either from Fenchurch Street Station (p. 34) or from Liverpool Street Station (p. 32). The first stations after Liver- pool Street are Bishopsgate, Bethnal Green (p. 131), Old Ford, and Stratford, where the train joins the North London line. Then Leyton and Leytonstone. At (8 M.) Snareshrook is an Infant Orphan Asylum, with accommodation for 300 children (to the left of the line). 83/4 M. George Lane; 9^/4 M. Woodford, 3 M. from Ching- ford (see p. 343); 11 M. Buckhurst Hill. Then (12 M.) Loughton (Railway Hotel), within a few hundred paces of the Forest. 38. EPPING FOREST. 343 Another route to Epping Forest is by the Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street, via Wood Street, the station for Walthamstow, to (9 M.) CMngford (fares Is. 5<i., U. id., 10c?.), which may also be reached from the North London Railway via Dalstoa Junction and Hackney or via Gospel Oak. — Chingford [*Royal Forest Hotel, D. is. 6d.), which lies 2 M. to the W. of Buckhurst Hill, about 41/2 JI. to the S.E. of Waltham Abbey, and 2V2 M. to the S. of High Beach (see below), is perhaps the best start- ing-point from which to vi.sit the most attractive parts of the Fore.st. Open conveyances of various kinds run from Chingford station and from the Royal Forest Hotel to High Beach (Bd. each), Waltham Abbey, Chigwell, Epping, and other points of interest; the best conveyance is the four-horse coach starting at the hotel. A good golf-course has been laid out near Chingford. On an eminence to the W. of Chingford is an obelisk, due N. from Greenwich Observatory, and sometimes used in verifying astrono- mical calculations. Epping Forest, along with the adjoining Hainault Forest, at one time extended almost to the gates of London. In 1793 there still remained 12,000 acres unenclosed , but these have been since re- duced to about 5500 acres. The whole of the unenclosed part of the Forest was purchased by the Corporation of London, and was opened by Queen Victoria in May, 1882, as a free and inalienable public park and place of recreation. One of the finest points in the Forest, if not the very finest, is *High Beach, an elevated tract covered with magnificent beech-trees, about 1 1/2 M. from Loughton. Tennyson was living here when he wrote 'The Talking Oak' and 'Locksley Hall'. There is an inn here, called the 'King's Oak', which is much resorted to by picnic parties. About 2^2 M. farther, on the northern verge of the Forest , stands Copped Hall, a magnificent mansion in the midst of an extensive park. The town of Epping, with 2300 inhab., lies 2 M. to the E. of this point. Near Buckhurst Hill (see above) is the Roebuck Inn, and there is also a small inn (the Robin Hood) at the point where the road from Loughton joins that to High Beach. On the high-road between Loughton and Epping lies Amhreshury Bank, an old British camp, 12 acres in extent, and nearer Loughton is another similar earthwork. Tradition reports that it was here that Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, was defeated by Suetonius, on which occasion 80.000 Britons are said to have perished. — A good map of Epping Forest, price 2d., may he obtained of H. Sell, 10 Bolt Court, Fleet Street. Good hand- books to the Forest are those of E. If. Buxton (Stanford; Is. 6d.) and Percy Lindley (6d.). Waltham Abbey lies on the river Lea, about 2 M. from the W. margin of the forest, and 6 M. to the W. of Copped Hall. The abbey was founded by the Saxon king Harold, and after his death in 1066 became his burial-place. The nave of the old abbey has been restored, and now serves as the parish-church. The round arches are specimens of very early Norman architecture, and may even have been built before the Conquest. Adjoining the S. aisle is a fine Lady Chapel, in the decorated style. The tower is modern. The station of Waltham Cross lies ^/^M. to theW. of the abbey; and ^/i'M.. beyond the station stands Waltham Cross, one of the crosses which Edward I. erected on the different spots where the body of his queen Eleanor rested on its way from Nottinghamshire to Lon- 344 38. RYE HOUSE. don. The cross has been well restored. Another of these monu- ments, that at Charing Cross, has been already mentioned (see p. 149). Near one of the entrances to Theobalds Park, near Walt- ham Cross, stands the re-erected Temple Bar (comp. p. 144). The railway journey from Waltham Cross to Rye House occu- pies 20 minutes. The intermediate stations are Cheshunt^ with a large Nonconformist Theological College, and Broxbourne. At the latter is the Crown Inn, with an extensive garden, which, in the rose season, presents a beautiful sight. The river iea, near which the line runs, is still, as in the days of its old admirer Izaak Walton, famous for its fishing; and the various stations on this line are much frequented by London anglers. Nearly the whole of the river is divided into 'swims', which are either private property, or confined to subscribers. Visitors, however, can obtain a day's fishing by payment of a small fee (at the inns). Tiie free portions of the river do not afford such good sport. Rye House, a favourite summer -resort for schools, clubs, societies, and workshop picnics, was built in the reign of Henry VI.; it belonged, with the manor, to Henry VIII. , and afterwards passed into private hands. It is now a tavern. There are still some remains of the old building, particularly the embattled Gate House. As many as 1000 school children or excursionists have dined in Rye House at one time. The grounds are large and beautiful, affording abundant open air amusements {J'Guide', price 3ci.). The fishing near Rye House, both in the Lea and the New River, is very good. Rye House gave its name in 1683 to the famous 'Rye House Plot', which had for its object the assassination of Charles II. and the Duke of York, as they travelled that way. The supposed con- spiracy , which was headed by Rumbold, then owner of the manor, is said to have failed on account of the premature arrival of the King and his brother. It led to the execution of Rumbold, Al- gernon Sidney, Lord William Russell, etc. Whether a conspiracy, however, existed at all, is doubtful. From Rye House to (6 M.) Hertford , railway in 15 minutes. First station St. I/arffurefs. In the vicinity, on a branch of the Lea, is the pleasant little village of Amwell. On a small island in the stream is a montiment to Sir Hugh Myddelton ^ who conducted the New River water to London (comp. p. 101). — Next stat. Ware^ a busy market-town of 5121 inhabitants, with a considerable trade in malt and corn. At the inn called the 'Saracen's Head' was till lately exhibited the Great Bed of Ware, which measures 12 ft. both in length and breadth. The bed and its trap- pings now form part of the attractions of the Rye House. It is alluded to by Shakspeare {Twelfth Night, iii. 2). — Then Hertford (Salisbury Arms; Dimadale Arms; White Hart), the capital of the shire of that name, situ- ated on the S. bank of the Lea. It contains the remains of a castle of the 10th cent., and also a castle erected in the reign of the first Charles, now used as a school. The preparatory school in connection with Christ's Hospital is at Hertford (comp. p. 92). In the vicinity are various hand- some country-seats. Among these are (S.W.) Bayfordbury, with the Kit- Cat portraits (p. 337)-, Balls Park, the seat of the Marquis of Townshend; and Brickendonbury. — On the W. is Panshanger, for many years the resi- dence of Lord Palmerston, now the seat of Earl Cowper, with a good collection of pictures, of which the following are the most important: "''Raphael, Two Madonnas 5 '■ IVa Bartolommeo, Holy Family j *'Atidrea del 39. ST. ALBANS. 345 Sarto, Three pictures illustrating the story of Joseph ; Sebastian del Piomho^ The Fornarina. Admission is granted on previous application by letter. The famous Panshanger Oak, one of the largest oaks in England, stands on the lawn to the W- of the house. 39. St. Albans. Harrow. Luton. Dunstable. Midland Railway^ from St. Pancras, 20 M., in V2-I hr. (fares 2s. 8d., Is. l^lid.^ no second class); North Western Railway^ from Euston Square, 24 M., in 3/4-13/4 hr. (fares 2s. %d., 2s., Is. l^l'id.); or Great Northern Rail- way, from King's Cross, 2372 M. in 3/4-IV4 hr. (fares 2s. 8d., 2s., Is. 71/2^.). Our chief description applies to the first -mentioned route, for which through-tickets may be obtained at any of the Metropolitan Railway stations. — During the summer months a four-horse Coach runs to St. Albans daily, starting at 11 a.m. from the Hotel Victoria, and, for the return journey, from the Peahen, St. Albans, at 4 p.m. (2V2 hrs. ; fare 10s., return 15s.). The drive is picturesque and pleasant. The first stations on the Midland Railway are Camden Eoad, Kentish Town, Haverstock Hill, Finchley Road, and West End, where we leave London fairly hehind us and enter the open country. Hampstead here lies on the right and Willesden on the left, while the spire of Harrow church, also on the left , may te descried in the distance. Then Child's Hill, and (51/2 M.) Welsh Harp, with an artificial lake, formed as a reservoir for the Regent Canal. It contains abundance of fish, and attracts large numbers of anglers (who for permission to fish apply at the inn, 'Old Welsh Harp' ; day-tickets Is. and 2s. 6d.). It is also a favourite resort of skaters in winter. — 6 M. Hendon, with a picturesque ivy-grown church. — 8 M. Mill Hill , with a Roman Catholic Missionary College and a noted Public School for boys, founded in 1807 by Nonconformists. Sir Stamford Raffles died here in 1826 ; and William Wilber force lived here, and built the Gothic Church of St. Paul (1836). About 1 M. to the W. lies Edgware, and a little more remote is Whitchurch, also called Little Stanmore. While Handel was chapel-master to the Duke of Chandos at Canons, a magnificent seat in this neighbourhood, now demolished, he acted as organist in the church of Whitchurch (1718-1721). The church still contains the organ on which he played, and also some fine wood-carving, and the monument of the Duke of Chandoa (d. 1774) and his two wives. A blacksmith's shop in Edgware is said to be the place where Handel conceived the idea of his 'Harmonious Blacksmith'. 11 M. Elstree, a picturesque village in Hertfordshire, which we here enter. Good fishing may be obtained in the Elstree reservoir. — 14 M. Radlett. — 20 M. St. Albans, see p. 346. If the London and North Western Railway route be chosen, the traveller is recommended to visit, either in going or returning, Harrow on the Hill (King's Head; Railway), one of the stations on that line (the station being 1 M. from the town). The large public school here, founded in 1571, is scarcely second to Eton, and has numbered Lord Byron, Sir Robert Peel, Sheridan, Spencer Perceval, Viscount Palmerston, and numerous other eminent men among its pupils. The older portion of the school is in the Tudor style. The chapel, library, and speech-room are all quite modern. The panels of the great school-room are covered with the names of the boys, including those of Byron, Peel, and Palmerston. The number of scholars is now about 500. Harrow church has a lofty spire, which is a conspicuous object in the landscape for many miles round. The churchyard commands a 346 39. ST. ALBANS. moat extensive *View. A flat tombstone, on which Byron used to lie, when a boy, is still pointed out. — A visit to Harrow alone is now most easily accomplished by the Metropolitan Railway (from Baker Street in V2 hr. ; fares 1*. 5d., Is., 81/2^?.; see p. 348). The traveller who is equal to a walk of 10 M. , and is fond of natural scenery, may make the excursion to St. Albans very pleasantly as follows. By railway from King's Cross (Oreat Northern Railway) to (9 M.) Barnet; thence on foot, via (1 M.) Chipping Burnet and (5M.) Elstree (see above), to (10 M.) Watford^ a station on the London and North Western Rail- way; and from Watford by rail to (7 M.) St. Albans. If the traveller means to return by the Great Northern Railway, he should take a return-ticket to Barnet. — Near Hatfield., the first station on this line in returning from St. Albans, is Hatfield House., the seat of the Marquis of Salisbury, a fine mansion built in the 17th cent, on the site of an earlier palace, in which Queen Elizabeth was detained in a state of semi-captivity before her accession to the throne (eomp. Baedeker's Great Britain). St. Albans (^Peahen, Oeorge, both near the Abbey, unpretend- ing) lies a short distance to the E. of the site of Verulamium, the most important town in the S. of England during the Roman period, of which the fosse and fragments of the walls remain. Its name is derived from St. Alban, a Roman soldier, the proto-martyr of Christianity in our island, who was executed here in A.D. 304. Holmhurst Hill, near the town, is supposed to have been the scene of his death. The Roman town fell into ruins after the departure of the Romans, and the new town of St. Albans began to spring up after 795, when Offa II., King of Mercia, founded here, in memory of St. Alban, the magnificent abbey, of which the fine church and a large square gateway are now the only remains. Pop. (1891) 12,896. The *Abbey Church is in the form of a cross , with a tower at the point of intersection, and is one of the finest and largest churches in England. It was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1877, when the new episcopal see of St. Albans was created. It measures 550 ft. in length, (being the second longest church in England, coming after Winchester) , by 175 ft. in breadth across the transepts ; the fine Norman Tower is 145 ft. high. The earliest parts of the existing building, in which Roman tiles from Verula- mium were freely made use of, date from the 11th cent. (ca. 1080) ; the Choir was built in the 13th cent, and the Lady Chapel in the 14tl» century. An extensive restoration of the building , including a new E.E. W. Front, with a large Dec. window, has been completed at an expense of 80,000i., by Lord Grimthorpe, who acted as his own architect without conspicuous success. St. Albans, 320 ft. above the sea, lies higher than any other English cathedral. See Fronde's 'Annals of au English Abbey'. The fine Interior (adm, Qd. •, tickets procured at the booksellers' in the town or from the verger) has recently been restored with great care. The Navk, the longest Gothic nave in the world, shows a curious inter- mixture of the Norman, E. E., and Dec. styles; and the change of the pitch of the vaulting in the S. aisle has a singular eQ"ect. The ''Stained Glass Windows In the N. aisle date from the 15th century. In the N. Tean- 8EPT some traces of old fresco-painting have been discovered, and the ceiling of the Choir is also coloured. The Screen behind the altar in the presbytery is of very fine mediaeval workmanship , and has lately been 39. ST. ALBANS. 347 restored and fitted with statues. Many of the chantries, or mortuary chapels of the abbots , and other monuments deserve attention. The splendid brass of Abbot de la Mare is best seen from the aisle to the S. of the Presbytery. In the SainCs Chapel are the tomb of Duke Humphrey of Gloucester (d. 1447), brother of Henry V., and the shrine of St. Alban. A door at the N. end of the transept leads to the Tower, the top of which commands a magnificent *View. The Gate, the only remnant of the conventual buildings of the abbey, stands to the W. of the church. It is a good specimen of the Perp. style. It was formerly used as a gaol, and is now a school. About 3/4 M. to the W. of the abbey stands the ancient Church of St, Michael, which is interesting as containing the tomb of the great Lord Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans, who died at Gorhambury House here in 1626. The monument is by Rysbrack. To reach the church we turn to the left (W.) on leaving the cathedral and descend to the bridge over the Ver. The keys are kept by Mr. Monk, shoemaker (to the left, between the bridge and the church). The present Gorhambury House, the seat of the Earl of Verulam, IV2 M. to the W. of St. Michael's, is situated in the midst of a beautiful park, and contains a good collection of portraits. St. Albans was the scene of two of the numerous battles fought during the Wars of the Roses. The scene of the first, which ushered in the contest, and took place in 1455, is now called the Key Field; the other was fought in 1461 at Barnard^s Heath, to the N. of the town, just beyond St. Peter's Church. From St. Albans to (10 31.) Luton by railway in 20-30 minutes. This ex- cursion is particularly recommended to all who are interested in manufact- uring industries. — First stat. Harpenden, near which, on the right of the line, is Harpenden Lodge. The train here passes from Hertfordshire into Bedfordshire. — Chiltern Green. On the right, Luton Hoo Hall , a very fine mansion. — Then (10 M.) Luton (G'eorg'e; Red Lion; Midland), a busy town of 30,000 inhab., famous for its manufacture of straw-hats. The straw-plait hall, market, and factories are all most interesting. Ad- mission to one of the last establishments may usually be obtained on application. The Parish Church, with its fine embattled tower , possesses a chapel founded in the reign of Henry VI. (1422-61) and contains a curious font. Dunstable (Sugar Loaf; Red Lion ; Railway), 5 M. from Luton by a local line, contains 4500 inhab., and also possesses large straw-plait bonnet and basket manufactories. Dunstable larks are famous for their size and suc- culence, and are sent to London in great quantities. The Church is a fine specimen of Norman architecture, dating in part from the time of Henry I. (1100-1135), Charles I. slept at the Red Lion Inn while on his way to Naseby. 40. Rickmans worth. Chenies. Chesham. 25 M. Metropolitan Railwat from Baker Street Station in 1-1 74 hr. (fares 3s. lOd., 2s. iOd., is. ild.). This line is an extension of the St. John's Wood branch of the Metropolitan Railway. Baker Street Station (PI. R, 20), see p. 36. — Passing the suburban stations of St. John's Wood Road (for Lord's Cricket- ground, p. 241), Marlborough Road, Swiss Cottage, Finchley Road, West Hampstead, Kilburn-Brondesbury , and Willesden Green, the train quits London and enters a pleasant open country. To the N. of (6 M.) Kingsbury-Neasden , with the works oi" the Metropolitan 348 40. RICKMANS WORTH. Railway Co., lies the Brent ox Welsh Harp Reservoir (p. 345). At (8 M.) Wembley Park (see p. 43), a tower in emulation of the Eiffel Tower at Paris is now being erected. 10 M. Harrow-on-the-Hill , see p. 345. — 121/2 M. Pinner (Queen's Head, a quaint 'Queen Anne' building), a prettily situated little town. A little to the W. lie Ruislip Park and Reservoir. — About 3 M. to the S.W. of [I41/2 M.) Northwood, with numerous suburban villas, is Harefield, the scene of Milton's 'Arcades'. 18 M. Eickmansworth (Swan; Victoria), a small paper-making town (7000 inhab.) on the Chess, near its confluence with the Colne, is a good centre for excursions. Large quantities of water-cress are grown here for the London market. To the S.E., on the other side of the Colne. lies Moor Park (Lord Ebury), with its fine timber. Walkers are advised to quit the railway here and to proceed to (91/2 M.) Chesham on foot, through the *Valley of the Chess. We turn to the right on leaving the station, pass under the railway bridge, ascend a few steps immediately to the left, cross the railway "by a foot-bridge, and enter iUckmanswo'rth Park, with its fine old trees. The walk across the park brings us in 25 min. to a road, which we cross obliquely (to the left) to a meadow-path leading to (1/4 hr.) the high road to Chenies, at a point near the village of Gliorley Wood (1/2 M. from the station, see below). About 13/4 M. farther on we turn to the right (sign-post) for O/2 M.) the pictaresque and neatly-built village of Chenies C*^ed'/o?'d /w«.^. The ''Mor- tuary Chapel attached to the church here contains the tombs of the Russells from 1556 to the present day, aCfording an almost unique instance in England of a family burial-place of this kind (admission only by order obtained at the Bedford Estate office, Montague Street, Russell Square, Loudon; key kept by Mr. White, whose house adjoins the above-mentioned sign-post). The finest monument is that of "Anne, Countess, of Bedford (d. 1555), the builder of the chapel. Lord William Russell {beheaded in 1683; p. 183), Lord John Russell (d. 1878), and Lord Ampthill (d. 1884), are buried here. Adjoining the church is a fragment of the fine old manor- house. Matthew Arnold frequently visited Chenies for the sake of the angling in the Chess. — To reach Chesham we follow the lane between the church and the manor-house, and then turn to the left along a path through beech- wood on the slope of the valley of the Chess. View of the Elizabethan mansion of Latimers (Lord Chesham), on the other side of the stream. After about V* br. we pass through two gates. 20 min. Lane, leading to the left to Chalfont Road station (p. 343). In 10 min. more we descend to the right to the road and follow it to the left to (2 M.) Chesham (p. 349). A pleasant walk may also be taken from Riekmansworth to (5 M.) Chalfont, St. Giles (see below). Turning to the left as before and passing under the railway, we follow the road to (2 M.) Maple'^s Cross. A field- path to the right brings us in 10 min. to another winding road, which we follow (to the right) to (about 2 M.) the lodge-gates of .Xewlands Park. We here pass through a gate on the left and continue by an avenue of trees to (8 min.) a gate and road. We cross the siile and follow a field- paih (several stiles) descending to Chalfont St. Giles in the valley. 20 M. Chorley Wood and (22 M.) Chalfont Road are each about 11/2 M. from Chenies (see above). They are also nearly equidistant (3-3^2 M.) from the charming little village of Chalfont St. Giles, containing the cottage in which Milton finished 'Paradise Lost', and began 'Paradise Regained' (1665-68). This has been left unchanged since the poet's time and contains a few relics (adm. Qd., a party 3d. each). About IV2 M. to the S. of Chalfont St. Giles, on the way 41. WINDSOR. 349 to Beaconsfield (see^below) is Jordans, the burial-place of William Penn (d. 1718). From Chalfont Road a branch -line runs to (4 M.) Chesham {Crown; George), a quaint old tovvTi -with 8000 inhab., mainly em- ployed in the manufacture of furniture and other articles in beech- wood, cricket-bats, etc. Ducks and water -cress are also largely produced. Fine view from the Park. Beyond Chalfont Road the railway is continued via Amersham and Great Missenden to Wendover and Aylesbury (see Baedeker^s Handbook to Great Britain). 41. Windsor. Eton. Windsor is reached by tbe Great Western Railway^ from Pad- dington Station (21 M. in 35-65 min. ; fares 3s. 9d., 2s. lOd., Is. 9d. ; return-tickets, available for 8 days, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d., avail- able from Sat. to Mon., 4s. 6d., 3s. 6d.); or by the South Western Railway^ from Waterloo Station, N. side (25V2 M. in 1^4 hr. ; same fares). Great Western Railway. The first station is Royal Oak, where, by a clever piece of engineering, the rails for local trains are carried under those for through trains , by a descent and then an ascent. The second station, called Westbourne Park, is the junc- tion of a line to Hammersmith (p. 338). Farther on, Kensal Green Cemetery (p. 306) lies on the right. The next stations are Acton, Ealing, Castle Hill, and. Hanw ell , at which last, on the left, is tbe extensive Middlesex County Lunatic Asylum, with a fine park and accommodation for 1000 inmates. At Southall a branch-line diverges on the left to Brentford. Next come Hayes , West Dray- ton (branch-lines to Vxbridge, a busy little town, prettily situated on the Colne, 3 M. to the N., and to Staines, p. 351), Langley, and Slough, where the branch to Windsor diverges to the left from the main Great Western line. (Passengers who are not in a through Windsor carriage change here.) Sir William fferschel (d. 1822) and Sir John Berschel (d. 1871), the celebrated astronomers, made many of their important discoveries in their observatory at Slongh. A pleasant ramble, through picturesque scenery, may be made from Slough to (2 M.) Stoke Poges and (4 M.) -Buimham Beeches. The churchyard at Stoke Poges is the scene of Gray's famous 'Elegy', and now contains the poet's grave. A monument to his memory has been erected in the adjacent Sloke Park., a fine property which once belonged to the descend- ants of William Penn. Sir Edward Coke entertained Queen Elizabeth at Stoke Poges in 1601. At a little distance is Beaconsfield., with a house (named Gregories) once occupied by Edmund Waller (d. 1687) and Edmund Bnrke (d. 1797), of whom the one lies buried in the churchyard, and the other in the church. It furnished the title of Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of Beaconsfield (d. 1881), who lived at Hughenden, 8 M. to the W., and is buried in a vault near the church. The beeches at Burnham, the finest in England, have been secured as a public resort by the Corporation of London (see 'Burnham Beeches', by F. G. Heath; 1«.). Before reaching Windsor the train crosses the Thames, passing 350 4.1. WINDSOR. 41. WINDSOR. 351 Eton College (p. 356) on the right. The station is on the S.W. side of the town, in George Street, about 1/4 M. from the Castle. South Western Railway. Route to Clapham Junction , see p. 328 ; the branch-line to Richmond and Windsor diverges here to the right from the main South Western line, and approaches the Thames at Wandsworth station (p. 337). We next pass Putney (p. 337), Barnes (p. 337; branch-line to Chiswick, p. 338, and Kew Bridge, p. 335), Mortlake (p. 338), and Richmond (p. 334). The line skirts Richmond Park, crosses the Thames by a bridge of three arches, and reaches Twickenham (p. 339 ; on the left a branch-line to Teddington, p. 339, Hampton Wick, p. 339, and Kingston, p. 339). Next stations, Feltham, with a large reformatory for youth- ful criminals, Ashford, and Staines, a picturesque old town, deriv- ing its name from the 'stones' which once marked the limits of the jurisdiction of London in this direction. A branch of the South Western Railway runs hence to the left to Virginia Water (p. 357), Ascot (p. 357), and Reading. Near Egham, the first station beyond Staines on this line, is ihe T^\&\n oi Runnimede , where King John signed the Magna Charta in 1215 (see p. 58). Above the town rises Cooper't Hill (view), celebrated in Denman's well-known poem; on it stands the Roi/al Indian Engineering College. Beyond Egham is Ml. Lee, on the top of which is the large Holloway College for Women, erected and endowed by Mr. Holloway (of the 'Pills") at a cost of 1,0(X),000^ The buildings, which are very handsome and elaborate, have accommodation for 300 students. Our train runs in a N.W. direction. Stations Wraysbury and Datchet (Manor House; Stag). On the left rise the large towers of Windsor Castle, round the park of which the train describes a wide circuit. Before reaching Windsor we cross the Thames, on the N. bank of which lies Eton College (p. 356). The station lies in Thames Street, on the N.E. side of the town, near the bridge over the Thames, and 1/2 M. from the Castle. Hotels at Windsor (pop. in 1891, 18,890): '^ White Hart, R. & A. 4s.-7s. 6d., B. Is. 6d.-3s., D. 4-6s.; Castle; Bridge House (well spoken of), Christopher, at Eton. The wards of Windsor Castle and the northern terrace are al- ways open to the public; admission to the eastern terrace is grant- ed on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 2 to 6 p.m., in the absence of the Queen. (The Guards' band usually plays here on Sundays.) The State Apartments are shown (in the absence of the Queen) on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, from 1 St April to 31st Oct., 11-4; from 1st Nov. to 31st March, 11-3. St. George's Chapel is open daily, except Wednesday, from 10.30 to 3 ; divine service is celebrated on Sundays at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; on week-days, at 10.30 a.m. and 3 p.m. The Albert Chapel is open daily except Wed. and Sun. 11 to 4 in summer, 11 to 3 in winter, without tickets. The worst day for a visit to Windsor is, therefore, Wednesday. Tickets of admission for the State Apartments are ob- tained in the Lord Chamberlain's office (PI. 10) at the castle. The 352 41. WINDSOR. Private Apartments of the Queen axe shown only by a special order from the Lord Chamberlain, -which it is difficult to obtain. Windsor (originally Windleskore^ from an Anglo-Saxon root, in allusion to the -winding course of the Thames here), an estate presented by Ed-ward the Confessor to the monks of Westminster Abbey, -was purchased by William the Conqueror for the purpose of erecting a castle on the isolated hill in its centre. The building •was extended by Henry I. and Henry H. ; and Ed-ward HI. , -who -was born at Windsor , caused the old castle to be taken do-wn, and a new one to be erected on its site , by William of Wykeham, the art-lo-ving Bishop of Winchester. Under succeeding monarchs Windsor Castle was frequently extended •, and finally George IV. began a series of extensive "restorations under the superintendence of Sir Jeffrey Wyattville. The restoration, completed in the reign of Queen Victoria at a total cost of 900,000Z. , left Windsor Castle one of the largest and most magnificent royal residences in the world. The Castle consists of two courts , called the Upper and Lower Wards^ surrounded by buildings ; between the two rises the Round Tower (p. 348). We first enter the Lower Ward from the Castle Hill by Henry VIII.^s Gateway. On the N.W. side of the ward, opposite the entrance , stands *St. George's Chapel , or chapel of the Knights of the Order of the Garter, begun in 1474, in the late- Gothic style, by Edward IV. on the site of a chapel of Henry I., and completed by Henry VIII. The ^Interior, whicli is richly adorned in the Perpendicular style, possesses a handsome, fan-shaped, vaulted roof. To the right of the entrance is a cenotaph of the Prince Imperial, with a recumhent figure in white marble, erected by the Queen, The large W. window contains old stained glass, the subjects of which refer to the Order of the Garter. In the S.W. corner is Beaufort Chapel^ adjoining which, below the modern window at the end of the S. aisle, is the tomb of the Queen's father, the Duke of Kent, consisting of an alabaster sarcophagus with the recumbent marble eftigy of the Duke, designed by Siv G. Q. Scott (d. 1878), and executed by Boehm. Opposite, at the end of the N. aisle, is the monument of Princess Charlotte, designed by Wyatt. — The richly-adorned "Choir contains the stalls of the Knights of the Garter, with their coats-of-arms and banners. At the E. end, above the altar, is a fine stained-glass window to the memory of Prince Albert, erected from designs by Sir 0. O. Scott. The reredos below the window, sculptur- ed in alabaster marble, is very fine. The subjects are the Ascension, Christ appearing to his Disciples, and Christ meeting Mary in the Gar- den. To the left, adjoining the altar, is the monument of Edward IV., consisting of an iron gate between two battlemented towers, and said to have been executed by the Antwerp painter Quintin Matsys. Among the numerous other monuments in the chapel we may mention the plain marble tombstone of Henry VI. and the handsome monument erected by Queen Victoria to her aunt, the Duchess of Gloucester (d. 1857), both in the S. part of the retro-choir, and the statue of Earl Harcourt (d. 1830), on the N. side of the retro-choir. The vault in the middle of the choir contains the remains of Henry VIII., his wife Jane Seymour, and Char- les I. — A subterranean passage leads from the altar to the royal Tomb- house under the Albert Chapel, situated on the E. side of St. George's Chapel, in which repose George III., George IV., William IV., and other royal personages. (Divine service, etc., see p. 351.) 41. WINDSOR. 353 The*AlbertChapel[P1.7), adjoining St. George's Chapel on the IC. , was originally erected by Henry VII. as a mausoleum for himself ; but, on his ultimate preference of Westminster, it was transferred for a similar use to Cardinal Wolsey. On the fall of that prelate it reverted to the Crown, and was subsequently fitted up by James II. as a Roman Catholic chapel. An indignant mob, however, broke the windows and otherwise defaced it, and 'Wolsey's Chapel', as it was called, was doomed to a century of dilapidation and neglect, after which George III. constructed the royal tomb-house beneath it. Queen Victoria then undertook the restoration of the chapel in honour of her deceased husband , Prince Albert, and has made it a truly royal and sumptuous memorial. The interior, beautified with coloured marble, mosaics, sculpture, stained glass, precious stones, and gilding, in extraordinary profusion and richness, must certainly be numbered among the finest works of its kind in the world, though, it must be owned, rather out of harmony with the Gothic architecture of the building. The ceiling, which re- sembles in form that of St. George's Chapel, is composed of Venetian enamel mosaics, representing in the nave, angels bearing devices relating to the Prince Consort; in the chancel, angels with shields symbolical of the Passion. The false window at the W. end is of similar workman- ship, and bears representations of illustrious personages connected with St. George's Chapel. At the sides of the W. entrance are two marble figures — the Angels of Life and Death. The walls are decorated with a series of pictures of scriptural subjects inlaid with coloured marbles, by Triqueti, in which 28 different kinds of marble have been introduced. Above each scene is a white marble medallion of a member of the royal family, by Miss Susan Durante while between them are basreliefs, emble- matical of the virtues. Round the edges of the pictures are smaller re- liefs in white and red marble, and other ornamentation. Below the marble pictures is a dark green marble bench; and the floor, which is very handsome, is also of coloured marbles. Most of the modem stained- glass windows exhibit ancestors of the Prince Consort; those in the chancel are filled with scriptural subjects. The reliefs of the reredos, which was designed by Sir G. 0. Scott, and is inlaid with coloured marble, malachite, porphyry, lapis lazuli, and alabaster, have for their subject the Resurrection. At the E. end of the nave stands the "^Cenotaph of the Prince, by Triqueti, consisting of a handsome sarcophagus, en- riched with reliefs, bearing the recumbent figure of Prince Albert in white marble. The restoration was superintended by Sir G. G. Scott, the architect. Near the W. door is a sarcophagus with a recumbent figure, in white marble, of the Duke of Albany (d. 1884), in the dress of the Seaforth Highlanders. Between these is the porphyry sarcophagus of the Duke of Clarence (d. 1892), elder son of the Prince of Wales. — The mosaics were executed by Salviati. The length of the chapel is 68 ft., its breadth 28 ft., and its height 60 ft. The Round Tower, or Keep, used as a prison down to 1660, rises on theE. side of the Lower Ward, on an eminence 42 ft. high, surrounded on three sides by a deep moat. The scarps are embel- lished by beds of flowers. The battlements, 80 ft. above the ground (entrance from the Upper Ward, near the Norman Gate, PI. 11), command a charming **View of the country round Windsor , em- bracing, in clear weather, parts of no fewer than twelve counties. The bell, weighing 17 ewt. , was brought from Sebastopol. The tower is not perfectly symmetrical , measuring 102 ft. by 95 ft. ; Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 23 354 41. WINDSOR. admission gratis, 11-4. [The custodian points out the principal places in the environs , in which case he expects a trifling fee.) On the N. side of the tower is the vaulted Norman Gateway (PI. 11), flanked by pinnacled towers , and leading to the Upper Ward. Opposite, by the Porter's Lodge (PI. 13), is the entrance to the State Apartments (PL 12), which lie on the N. side of the large Quadrangle. On the E. are the Queen^s Private Apartments. George IV's Gateway (PI. 17), in the middle of the S. side, at the end of the Long Walk (p. 357), is the principal entrance to the palace, and is used by royal carriages only. At the foot of the tower, on its E. side, is a bronze statue of Charles II. (PI. 14), with reliefs on the pedestal by Grinling Gibbons. The State Apartments are usually shown in the following, though sometimes in the reverse, order. They contain many good pictures; but the barriers, which leave a narrow passage only for the public, and the hurried manner in which the rooms are shown, render it difficult for visitors to see them satisfactorily. The vestibule contains a good portrait of Sir Jeffrey Wyattvill e , the architect (see p. 352), by Lawrence. The Queen's Audience Chamber. The ceiling is decorated with paintings by Verrio. The walls are hung with tapestry, representing the story uf Esther and Mordecai , with portraits of Prince Frederick Henry and William II. of Orange, by Honthorst, and an old portrait of Mary, Queen uf Scots, by Janet. The Queen's Presence Chamber has also a ceiling painted by Verrio, and is hung with tapestry continuing the story of Esther and Mordecai. The carvings are by Grinling Gibbons. The Guard Chamber contains suits of old armour ; four bronze cannon captured in India ; above the mantelpiece , a silver shield inlaid with gold, under glass, presented by Francis I., of France, to Henry VIII. and said to be the work of Benvenuto Cellini; a colossal bust of Nelson by Chanlrey ., on a pedestal formed of a piece of the mast of the 'Victory', on board which Nelson was shot, with a hole made by a ball at that battle; bn.tits of Marlborough, after .Rys/jracA:, and Wellington by Chantrey. On June 18th and August 3rd, the anniversaries respectively of the battles of Waterloo (1815) and Blenheim (1704), two small French flags, presented by the dukes ol Wellington and Marlborough as a condition of the tenure of their estates, are placed here beside the busts of the victors in these fights. St. George's Hall, 2(X) ft. long and 34 ft. wide, has a ceiling adorned with the armorial bearings of the Knights of the Garter since 1350. On the walls are portraits of the English kings from James I. to George IV., by Van Dyck., Lely, Kneller, Lawrence, etc. At the E. end is the carved oak throne, a copy of the coronation chair in Westminster Abbey. The Grand Reception Room , originally meant for a ball-room , is magnificently decorated in the rococo style, and is hung with tapestry representing the story of Jasun and 3Iedea. At the N. end are a vase of malachite, the gift of the Emperor Nicholas of Russia, and two granite vases, presented by King Frederick William III. of Prussia. The Throne Room contains pictures by West (Establishment of the Order of the Garter), and portraits by Lawrence, Gainsborough, and others. The Waterloo Chamber, or Grand Dining Room, 98 ft. long by 47 ft. broad, in the Elizabethan style, is filled with portraits of Wellington, Bliicher, Castlereagh, Metternich, Pope Pius VH. , Emperor Alexander, Canning, W. von Humboldt, and others associated with the events of 1813-15, painted by Lawrence, Beechey , Pickersgill , Wilkie , etc. The carvings are by Grinling Gibbons. 41. WINDSOR. 355 The Grand Vestibule, 46 ft. long, 28 ft. broad, and 46 ft. higli , is decorated with armour and banners, and contains two bronze cannon from Seringapatam-, a brass gun from Borneo; a curious root in the shape of a dragon; and a statue of Queen Victoria, by Boehm. The Grand Staircase, with Chantrey''s statue of George IV. The State Ante-Room, originally the 'King's Public Dining Room', contains carving by Qrinling Gibbons^ allegorical ceiling-paintings by Verrio, and a portrait of George III. after Reynolds (on glass, above the chimney-piece). In the Small Vestibule are five historical paintings by West, being scenes from the reign of Edward III. The Rubens PtOOM contains eleven pictures by Rubens. The Council Chamber contains 35 valuable works by Carlo Mavatta, Parmeggianino, Ouido Rent., Guercinc, Corveggio^ Andrea del Sarto., Leonardo da Vinci., Garo/alo ., Carlo Dolci., Annibale Carracci ., Domenichino ., Rem- brandt., Teniers, Peter aVee/s, Holbein, G. Poussin, Claude Lorrain, Lely, and Kneller. The King's Closet is hung with pictures by the painters already named, and also by the Netherlandish masters Brueghel, Wouwerman, Wester- mann, Mierevelt, A. van de Velde, Rubens, Sleenwyk, and Jan Steen. The Queen's Closet is hung with 30 works by old masters. The Queen's State Drawing Room contains several large landscapes by Zuccarelli , and portraits of George I., George III., Frederick Prince of "Wales (father of George III.), and the Duke of Gloucester. The Old Ball Room , or Van Dyck Room , is exclusively devoted to portraits by that master. The best are those of Henry , Count de Berg ; '"Charles I. and his family; Mary, Duchess of Richmond; Henrietta Maria, wife of Chai-les I. (four portraits); Lady Venetia Digby; George, second Duke of Buckingham , and his brother Lord Francis Villiers; '^Children of Charles I. ; Head of Charles I. from three diflerent points of view, painted as an aid in the execution of a bust; Lucy, Countess of Carlisle; Charles II. when a boy; Portrait of the master himself; '•■'The three eldest children of Charles I. ; Charles I. on horseback. — There are also in this room two small bronzes of the Laocoon and Prome- theus Bound, and some valuable cabinets, the best of which is a magni- ficent specimen of ormolu work by Gouthiere. The Small Vestibule, Throne Room, Rubens Room, Council Chamber, King^s Closet, and Queen^s Closet are also usually shown. Those who are fortunate enough to gain admittance to the Private Apartments will enjoy one of the greatest artistic treats that England has to offer. The rooms are most sumptuously fitted up, and contain a magnificent collection of Chelsea, Oriental, and Sevres china, medifeval and Oriental cabinets, gold and silver plate, pictures, etc. In the Library are a valuable collection of drawings and miniatures by Holbein, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael. &n A Michael Angel o; and numerous bibliographical and other treasures, including an unpublished MS. by Dickens; a Bible once belonging to Luther, with his portrait on the cover; a copy of Shake- speare's works belonging to Charles I., with that king's autograph; Queen Charlotte's reading-desk, etc. The N. Terrace^ 625 yds. in length, is always open to the public , and commands a charming view ; the *E. Terrace is open on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 2 to 6 (see p. 351). From the latter, which affords an admirable view of the imposing E. facade of the castle, hroad flights of steps descend into the Flower Garden., which is tastefully laid out , and embellished with marble and bronze statues, and a fountain In the centre. The Royal Stables, or Mews, on the S. side of the castle, built at a cost of 70,000i., are open daily from 1 to 3 p.m. Tickets of ad- 23* 356 41. ETON. mission are obtained at the entrance from the Clerk of the Mews (small fee to groom who conducts the visitors round). The Town Hall of Windsor contains some good portraits, an ancient mayor's chair in carved oak, and a marhle bust of Charles Knight (1791-1873), a native of Windsor. The Parish Church, High Street, has some quaint monuments, carved railings by Grinling Gibbons, and mosaics by Salviati. The Garrison Church (Holy Trinity) contains numerous military memorials. On the left bank of the Thames, 10 min. to the N. of Windsor Bridge, is Eton College, one of the most famous of English schools, founded in 1440 by Henry VI. The number of pupils on the foundation, who live at the college, and wear black gowns, is about 70 ; the main portion of the establishment consists of the Oppidans , numbering more than 900, who live at the residences of the masters , or in the authorised 'Dames' houses', in the town, but under the jurisdiction of the college. The Eton boys, in their short jackets, broad collars, and tall hats, represent a large section of the youthful wealth and aristocracy of England. The school buildings enclose two large courts , united by the archway of the clock tower. The centre of the Outer Quadrangle, or larger court to the W. , is occupied by a bronze statue of Henry VI. ; on its N. side is the Lower School; on the W., the Upper School , the hall of which contains marble busts of English monarchs and of distinguished Etonians, including Chatham, Fox, Canning, Peel, and Wellington. The Chapel on the S. side, a handsome Gothic building, is decorated internally with wood-carving, stained-glass windows, and mosaics ; in the ante- chapel is a marble statue of Henry VI. The Inner Quadrangle is bounded in part by the dining-hall of the students who board at the college, and by the library, containing a rich collection of classical and Oriental MSS. A new Quadrangle, including a museum and a chapel for the Lower School, was erected in 1888-89. Those who desire to see the school should apply to Mr. Osborn, Clerk to the Head Master , at the School Office. The chapel is in the charge of Mr. Oakley. The Playing Fields should be visited. Comp. Maxwell Lyte's 'History of Eton College' (1875). See also the amusing little book entitled 'A Day of My Life at Eton'. To the N. and E. of Windsor lies the Home Park, or smaller park, surrounded on three sides by the Thames, and about 4 M. in circumference. A carriage-road leads through it to the village of Datchet (p. 351) , situated on the left bank of the Thames, 1 M. to the E. of Windsor. Herne^s Oak, celebrated in Shakspeare's 'Merry Wives of Windsor', formerly stood by the roadside ; in 1863, however, the old tree was destroyed by lightning, and a young oak planted in its place by the Queen. Opposite Datchet is the small royal country-seat of Adelaide Lodge ; and farther S. is Frogmore Lodge , once the seat of the Queen's mother , the Duchess of Kent 41. WINDSOR. 357 (d. 1861). Its grounds contain the Duchess's tomb, the magnificent mausoleum erected by the Queen to her husband, Prince Albert (d. 1861), and a cenotaph of Princess Alice (d. 1878). The Great Park, 1800 acres in extent, lies to theS. of Windsor, and is stocked with several thousand fallow deer. The Long Walk, a fine avenue of elms, leads from George IVs Gateway (p. 364), in a straight line of nearly 3 M., to Snow Hill, which is crowned by a statue of George III. , by Westmacott. At the end of this avenue is a road to the left, which passes Cumberland Lodge, and leads to Virginia Water [*Wheatsheaf Hotel; carriage from Windsor and back7-9«.), an artificial lake, formed in 1746 by the Duke of Cum- berland, the victor at CuUoden , in order to drain the surrounding moorland. The views from various points around the lake are very pleasing. There is a station of the South Western Railway (p. 351) about 1^2 M. from Virginia Water; and in summer a coach runs daily to Virginia Water from Northumberland Avenue (see p. 31). — ■ Queen Anne's Ride, another avenue, running almost parallel with the Long Walk, leads to the right to Ascot (p. 351), the scene of the fashionable Ascot Races in June , on the occasion of which some members of the Royal Family usually drive up the course in state (comp. p. 46). 42. Gravesend. Chatham. Rochester. North Kent Railway from Charing Cross , Cannon Street, and Lon- don Bridge, to Oravesend (24 M., in 1-1 Vs hrs. ; fares 3s. Qd., 2s. Sd., 2s. 2d) ; thence to Strood., Rochester, and Chatham in 10-20 min. more (fares 5s., 3s. Qd., 2s. 6d); or to Strood by rail, and thence across the Medway to Rochester and Chatham. The return journey may be made by the Lon- don, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which runs vid Bromley and Becken- ham to Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Ludgate Hill, and King's Cross (in Ihr. 5 min. to 13/4 hr. ; fares 5s., 3s. Gd., 2s. Gd.). During the summer months Gravesend may also be reached by a Thames Steamboat from London Bridge (2V2 hrs. ; fares is. 6d., Is.). A pleasant way of making this excursion is as follows : by river to Gravesend, and thence on foot by Cobham Hall (p. 860) to (7 M.) Rochester and Chatham, the return journey being effected by the London Chatham, and Dover Railway. A whole day will thus be occupied. As far as Gravesend, we describe both the river and the railway route. A. The Thames feom London Bridge to Gravesend. The scenery of the Thames below London contrasts very un- favourably with the smiling beauties of the same river higher up ; yet the trip down to Gravesend has attractions of its own, and may be recommended as affording a good survey of the vast commercial traffic of London. The appearance of the Thames just below Lon- don Bridge has already been described [p. 112), and the names of the wharves as far as Greenwich and Woolwich will be found in Route 31. The principal objects seen on the banks thus far are the Monument (left; p. 112), Billingsgate [left; p. 113), Custom House 358 42. THE THAMES. (left; p. 1143, Tower (left; p. 120), St. Katherine's Docks (left ^ p. 129), London Docks (left; p. 129), Wapping (left; p. 130), Rotherhithe (right -^ p. 353), Surrey Docks (right ] p. 131), Commer- cial Docks (riglit; p. 131), Deptford (right; p. 131), West India Docks (left; p. 131), Greenwich Hospital (right; p. 313), Isle of Dogs (left; p. 131), Blackwall Station (left; p. 312), East India Docks (left; p. 131), Victoria and Albert Docks (left; p. 131), Woolwich, with its doek-yard and arsenal (right ; p. 316), North Woolwich (left). Just ahove London Bridge we cross the City and South London Electric Railway (p. 113), helow the Custom House we cross the Tower Subway (p. 128), just below the Tower we pass beneath the Tower Bridge (p. 128), above the Surrey Docks we pass over the Thames Tunnel (130), and by the East India Docks over the works of the new Blackwall Tunnel (p. 131). The different docks are frequented by different classes of vessels (comp. pp. 129-131) The banks of the Thames below Woolwich are very flat and marshy, recalling the appearance of a Dutch landscape. Shortly after leaving Woolwich, we enter a part of the river called Barking Reach, where, at Barking Creek on the N., and Crossness on the S. bank, are situated the outlets of London's new and gigantic system of drainage (p. 70). The pumping-house at Crossness is a building of some architectural merit, with an Italian tower (visitors admitted on application at the office). Passing through Halfway Reach and Erith Reach, with Erith Marshes on our right, we next arrive at — R. Erith, a village pleasantly situated at the base of a wooded hill, with a picturesque, ivy-clad, old church. — On the opposite bank of the river, 2 M. lower down, lies — L. Purfleet (Royal Hotel, fish-dinners), the seat of large Gov- ernment powder magazines, capable of containing 60,000 barrels of powder. Opposite is the mouth of the small river Darent. The training-ship Cornwall is moored in the Thames at Purfleet. — Three miles below Purfleet, on the same side, is — L. West Thurrock (Old Ship), with the is'orman church of St. Clement (12th cent). There are still some remains of an old mon- astery. The Essex bank here forms a sharp promontory, immediately opposite which, in a corresponding indentation, lies — R. Greenhithe (Pier; White Hart), a pretty little place, with a number of villas. The training-ships ^Arethusd' and ^ Chichester^ and the higher class school-ship ' Worcester^ lie in the river here. Green- hithe is also a yachting station. A little way inland is Stone Church, supposed to have been built by the architect of Westminster Abbey, and restored by Mr. Street; it contains some fine stone-carving and old brasses. Just beyond Greenhithe the eye is attracted by the con: spicuous white mansion of Ingress Abbey, at one time occupied by the father of Sir Henry Havelock. — Then — L. Grays Thurrock, near which are some curious caves. — Next, 3 M. lower, — 42. THE THAMES. 359 R. Northfleet, with chalk-pits, cement factories, and a fine old church containing some monuments and a carved oak rood-screen of the 14th century. Northfleet also possesses a college for indigent ladies and gentlemen, and a working-man's club, the latter a large red and white brick building. An electric tramway runs, between 2 and 11 p.m., from Northfleet station (S. E. R.) to the top of North- fleet Hill (Id.), where it connects with a horse-tramway to Rosher- ville and Gravesend (through-fare 2d.). We now observe , on the Essex bank, opposite Gravesend, the low bastions of — L. Tilbury Fort, originally constructed by Henry VIII. to defend the mouth of the Thames, and since extended and strength- ened. It was here that Queen Elizabeth assembled and reviewed her troops in anticipation of the attack of the Armada (1588), appearing in helmet and corslet, and using the bold and well- known words : 'I know I have the body of a weak, feeble woman, but I have the heart and stomach of a king, and of a king of Eng- land too !' The large docks at Tilbury (Tilbury Grand Hotel) were opened in 1886. R. Gravesend, p. 360, B. London to Gravesend by rail. On quitting London Bridge station the train first traverses the busy manufacturing districts of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe ; in the churchyard of the latter is buried Prince Lee Boo (d. 1784), son of the king of the Pellew Islands, who in 1783 treated the ship- wrecked crew of the Antelope with great kindness. The train then stops at Spa Road, (3 M.) Neiu Cross, St. Johri's, and [Q M.) Lewisham Junction. It next passes through a tunnel, about 1 M. in length, and arrives at (7 M.) Blackheath (p. 316). Then (9 M.) Charlton, close to the station of which is the old manor-house of the same name. [Another service reaches Charlton via Spa Road, Deptford, Greenwich, and Westcomhe Park.] We next pass through two tunnels, and reach (10 M.) Woolwich Dockyard, followed immediately by Woolwich Arsenal. — IIY4M, Plumstead, with Plumstead Marshes on the left. — 13 M. Abbey Wood, a small village of recent origin, with pleasant surroundings, and some scanty remains of Lesnes Abbey, an Augustine foundation of the 12th century. — Close to (14 M.) Belvedere lies Belvedere House, now the Royal Alfred In- stitution for merchant seamen. — (15V2 ^1-) ^iih, see p. 358. The train crosses the river Cray, and reaches — 17 M. Dartford (Bull; Victoria), a busy town of 12,000 inhab., with a large paper-mill, a machine and engine factory, a gunpowder factory, and the City of London Lunatic Asylum. The first paper mill in England was erected here at the end of the 16th century. Foolscap paper takes its name from the crest (a fool's cap) of the founder , whose tomb is in the church. Dartford was the abode of the rebel Wat Tyler (p. 97). 360 42. GRAVESEND. Another route from London to Dartford passes the interesting little town of (9 M.) Eltham (Greyhound; Chequers)^ prettily situated among trees, with the villas of numerous London merchants. About 1/4 M. to the N. of the station lie the remains of Eltham Palace^ a favourite royal residence from Henry III. (1216-72) to Henry VIII. (1509-1547). Queen Elizabeth often lived here in her childhood. The palace is popularly known as King John's Barn^ perhaps because the king has been confounded with John of Eltham, son of Edward II., who was born here. Part of the old moat surrounding the palace is still filled with water, and we cross it by a picturesque old bridge. Almost the only relic of the build- ing is the fine ''Banqueting Hall (key kept in the adjacent lodge), some- what resembling Crosby Hall in London in general style and dating like it from the reign of Edward IV. (1461-83). The hall was long used as a barn, and some of its windows are still bricked up. The 'Roof is of chest- nut. Adjoining the hall on the left is the Court House ^ a picturesque gabled building, formerly the buttery of the Palace. There were originally three Parks attached to Eltham Palace, one of which , the Middle Park , has attained some celebrity in modern days as the home of the Blenkiron stud of race-horses, which produced the Derby winners , Gladiateur and Blair Athole. The Great Park has been built over. — The Church of Eltham was rebuilt in 1874 •, in the churchyard are buried Bishop Home (d. 1792), the commentator on the Psalms, and Doggett^ the comedian, founder of 'Doggetfs Coat and Badge' (p. 49). Fa»Z)ycA; was assigned summer-quarters at Eltham during his stay in Eng- land (1632-41), probably in the palace. A visit to Eltham may be conveniently combined with one to Green- wich (p. 313), which is reached by a pleasant walk of 4 M. across Black- heath (p. 316) and Greenwich Park; or to Woolwich (also 4 M.). reached via Shooters' Hill (p, 317). Another pleasant walk may be taken to (3 M.) Chiselhurst. Beyond Dartford we cross the Darent, pass (20 M.) Greenhithe (p. 358) and Northfleet (p. 359), and reach — 24 M. Gravesend. Gra.YeseiLd( Clarendon Hotel; Old Falcon; New Falcon; Rosher- ville), a town with 24,000 inhah., lying on the S. hank of the Thames, at the head of its estuary, has greatly increased in size in recent years, and is much resorted to by pleasure-seekers from Lon- don. The newer parts of the town are well built, hut the streets in the lower quarter are narrow and crooked. Gravesend possesses two good piers. On the W. side, towards Northfleet, are Roshervllle Gardens (see p. 43), a favourite resort, where music, dancing, archery, and other amusements find numerous votaries. The parish- church was built in the reign of Queen Anne, on the site of an earlier church which had been burned down in 1520. Pocahontas (d. 1617), the Indian princess who married John Rolfe, is interred in the chancel (see Doyle's 'English in America', 1882). Windmill Hill, at the back of the town, now almost covered with the build- ings of the increasing suburbs, commands a fine view of the Thames, Shooters' Hill (p. 317), London, with the hills of Highgate and Hampstead beyond, and (to the S.) over the county of Kent, with Cobham Hall (see below) and Springhead as conspicuous points. Pleasant excursion to -Cohham Hall, the seat of the Earl of Darnley, in the midst of a magnificent park (fine rhododendrons, in bloom in June), 42. ROCHESTER. 361 7 M. in eireumference, lying about 4 M. to the S. of Gravesend. (Tickets of admission to the house, which is open to visitors on Fridays from 11 to 4 only, may be obtained at Caddel's Library, King Street, Gravesend, and High Street, Rochester, price Is. ; the proceeds are devoted to chari- table purposes.) The central portion of this handsome mansion was built by Inigo Jones (d. 1653) ; the wings date from the 16th century. The interior was restored during the present century. The fine collection of pictures includes a ''Portrait of Ariosto and *Europa and the Bull by Titian^ *Tomyris with the head of Cyrus by Rubens, and examples of Van Dyclc, Lely, Knellei', and other masters. — The Parish Church of Cobham contains some fine old brasses. The pedestrian may extend his walk, through the famed woods of Cobham Park, and down the valley of the Medway, to Strood , a suburb of Rochester, a walk of about 7 M. in all from Gravesend. — The direct road from Gravesend to (6 M.) Rochester runs via -Gadshill and the old village of Chalk. Gadshill, which commands a splendid view, is famous as the scene assigned by Shakspeare to the encounter of Sir John Falstafi" with the 'men in buckram' , commemorated by an inn bearing the name of the worthy knight. Nearly opposite is the picturesque house in which Charles Dickens resided, and where he died in 1870 (comp. Baedeker's Great Britain). The railway from Gravesend to (7 M.) Strood passes only one station, called Higham, 31/2 M. from whicli is Cowling Castle, built in the time of Richard II., and now a picturesque ruin. Beyond Higham the train penetrates a tunnel, 11/4 M. in length, and enters the station of Strood, a suburb of Rochester, on the opposite bank of the river Medway. A few of the North Kent trains go no farther in this direction, but most of them cross the Medway, and proceed to Rochester and Chatham, which practically form one town, sur- rounded by fortifications defending the entrance to the river. 71/2 M. Rochester (Crown; Victoria ^ Bull; King's Head), to the N. of Chatham, a very ancient city, with a pop. of 26,309, a fine Norman Castle, and an interesting Cathedral^ is described at length in Baedeker s Great Britain. '8M. C\iB.t'h.9.m(Sun; Mitre), with 37,711 inhab., on the E. bank of the Medway, below Rochester, is one of the chief naval arsenals and military stations in Great Britain. See Baedeker s Great Britain. INDEX. Abbey Wood 359. Abney ParkCemetery306. Academy of Fine Arts, Royal 229. 45. 78. — of Music, Royal 232. 'Achilles'' Statue 271. Acton 349. 32. 33. Addison Road 36. 37. Addresses 71. Adelaide Lodge 353. Adelpbi Terarce 148. 116. — Theatre 40. 148. Admiralty 190. 263. Re°^ister 147. AgriculturalHail44.236. Albany, The 230. Albemarle Club 74. Albert Embankment 117. 200. 309. — Hall 44. 280. — Memorial 273. 280. — Suspension Bridge 304. 312. Aldersgate St. Stat. 36. 100. Aldgate Station 36. 110. Aldridge's 26. Ale 11. Alexandra Club 74. — House 282. — Palace 342. Alhambra Theatre 42. 231. Allan Wesleyan Library 100. 16. All Hallows, Barking, Church of 128. All Hallows Staining, Tower of 109. All Saints^ Church 233. All Souls^ Church 233. Alpine Club 74. Alsatia'138. Ambresbury Bank 343. American Banks 50. — Exchange 50. — Newspapers 17. — Reading-rooms 16 Amersham 349. Amusements 42. 43. 44. Amwell 344. Anerley 34. Angling 47. Antiquarian Society 228 Apothecaries' Hall 117. Apsley House 277. 271. Aquarium, Royal 44. 225. Aquatics 48. Arcade, the Royal 25. Archseological Institute 73. Archery Society 237. Architectural Museum 225. Argyll Lodge 273. Armourers' Hall 104. Army and Navy Club 74. 227. Stores 26. Arrival 5. Art Collections , Private 275-280. Arthur's Club 227. 74 Artillery Barraeks(Wool- wich) 316. Artillery Company, Hon. 99. Artistic Clubs 74. Art-Needlework, School of 238. Arts, Society of 148. — Club 74. Arundel House 342. Ascot Races 46. 351. 357. Ashford 351. Asiatic Society, Royal 230. 73. Astronomical Society 228. Athenaeum Club 227. 74. Athletics 47. Auctions 71. Audit Office 147. Austin Friars 106. Authors' Club 74. Avenue Theatre 41. Aylesbury 32. 349. Bachelors' Club 74. Badmiuton Club 228. 74. Baker Street Bazaar 24. Station 36. 233. 33S. Balham 33. Balls Park 314. Baltimore to Liverpool^. Bank of England 105. — , National Prov. 108. — , Child's 144. — , Coutts's 149. Bankers 50. Bankers' Clearing House 106. Banknotes 1. Baptist Chapels 51. Barber-Surgeons' Court Room 92. Barclay's Brewery 308 120. Barking Reach 35S. Barnard's Heath 3i7. — Inn 95. 140. Barnes 34 33S. 351. — Elms 337. Barnet 346 32. Barnsbury 33. Bartholomew Fair 25. 97. Baths 18. Battersea Bridge 304. — Park 312. 33. Station 312. Road Station 312. Bayfordbury 344. Baynard's Castle 118. Bayswater 270. — Station 36. Bazaars 24. Beaconsfield 349. Beaufort Club 74. Beckenham 32. 33. Bedford 4. — Coffee House 187. — Square 234. Beefsteak Club 187. Beer 11. Belgravia 303. Belvedere 359. Bennet's;Hill,JSt. 119. Berkeley Square 233. Bermondsey 68. 359. 33. Bethlehem Hospital 311. LIST OF EMINENT PERSONS. 363 Congreve, Sir W. 148. Constable 340. Cooper, Sir Astley 88. 90, 309. Coote 204. Cornwallis 88. Coverdale, Miles 113. Cuwley 210. 224. Cowper 207. 224. 344. Craggs 206. 215. Cranmer 127. 216. Cromwell, Henry 285. 99 Cromwell, O. 97. 140. 189. 197.'. 199. 216. 274. 328. Cromwell, Thos. 126. 337. Cruiksbank, Geo. 89. Cumberland, Duke of 232. 357. Darwin, Chas. 205. Davy 223. 229. 237. Dee 338. Defoe 94. 97. 99. Derbv, Earl of 199. Dibdm 236. Dickens, Chas. 95. 209. 281. 309. 341. 361. Digby 187. Disraeli, Ben., see Bea- consfleld. Dodsley 226. Donne 87. 101. D'Orsay, Count 281. Douglas, Gavin 148. Dravton 138. 210. Dryden 144. 186. 210. 224. Dudley, Guildford 125. 126. Dyck, Van 147. 360. Dyer 93. 224. 335. Eastlake 306. Edinburgh, Duke of 267. Edward the Confessor 200. 220. 224. 352. Edward I. 100. 149. 219. 33i. 343. Edward II. 197. Edward III. 219. Edward V. 217. Edward VI. 94. 216. 313. Eleanor, Queen 149. 218. 343. Eliot, George 306. 341. Elizabeth, Queen 97. 101. 106. 125.188. 216. 224. 313.334.337.346.359 360. Ellenborough, Lord 98- Elmsley 224. Enghien, Due d' 328. Erskine, Lord 140. Essex , Earl of 126. 145. 197. 310. Fairfax 274. 837. Falstaff 111. 361. Faraday 341. Farquhar 150. Fawcett, Hen. 115. 207. Fawkes, Gny 197. Fielding 339. Flaxman 235. Fletcher, Giles 224. Fletcher, John 101. 307. Foote 187. Fox, Charles 204. 206, 234. 274. 338. 356. Foxe 97. Francis, Sir Philip 338, Franklin, Ben. 97. 149. 186, Franklin, Sir John 222. 226. Frere 89- 115. Frobisher 97. Froude 224. Gainsborough 226. 336. Garrick 149. 187. 208. Gaunt, John of 95. 148. Gay 209. George, Prince of Den- mark 215. 273. George I. 189. George 11.216. 273.314.328. George III. 102. 147. 226. 335. 353. 357. George IV. 150. 353. Gibbon 224. 337. Gibbons, Grinling 86. 88. 187. Gibson 306. Gladstone 127. Godolphin 207. Goldsmith 90. 138. 142. 143. 209. 236. Gordon, General 85. 150. Gower 307. Grabe 203. Grattan 204. Gray 109. 210. Gresham 103. 106. 108. Grey, Lady Jane 125. 126. Grote 98. 208. Gwynne, Nell 144.150.342. Hackluyt 224. Hale 140. Halifax, Earl of 204. 217. Hallam, Henry 86. Halley 229. Handel209. 234. 236. 38-5. 346. Hardy, Sir Thos. 206. 315. Harold, King 343. Harrington 199. Harvey 96. Hastings , Warren 197. 204. 224. Hatton, Sir Chris. 221. Havelock 98. 150. 358. Heber 87. 140. Henrietta Maria, Queen 146. Henry I. 352. Henry 11. 352. Henry III. 218. 224. Henry IV. 224. Henry V. 214. 218. Henry VI. 125. 127. Henry VII. 216. 334. Henry VIIL 95. 188. 266. 313. 328. 334. 344. 359. Herbert, Geo. 207. 224. Herbert, Lord 213. 227. Herschel, Sir John 128. 205. 349. Herschel, Sir Wm. 229. 349. Hill, Sir Rowland 107. 217. 311. Hogarth 96. 97. 109. 187. 231. 233. 236. 338. 341. Holbein 109. 147. 188. 266. Holland , Lord 206. 274. Hone 138. Hooker, Sir Joseph 335. Hooker, Sir Wm. 335. Home, Bp. 360. Horner, Francis 204. Horrocks 206. Howard, John 87. Howe, Adm. 87. Hunt, Leigh 93. 306. 340. Hunter 90. 184. 206. 231. Ireton 197. 274. 342. Irving, Edw. 235. Irving, Wash. 97. James I. 188. 214. James II. 190. Jeffreys 127. 199. Jenner 273. John, King 351. John , King (of France) 127. 148. Johnson, Samuel, 86. 90. 138. 143. 147. 306. Jones, Inigo 81. 140. 185. 355 Jones', Sir Wm. 88. 90. Jonson, Ben 117. 140. 144. 161. 205. 210. 224. Katherine of Valois 214. 218. Kean 334. Keats, Sir R. 315. . John 340. 364 ALPHABETICAL LIST Keble 206. Kemble 222. 279. 306. Kempenfelt 223. Kenrick 144. Kingsley 207. Kneller 187. 208. Kynaston 187. Iamb, Chas. 93. 109. Landor 281. Landseer, Sir E. 89. 231. Lansdowne, Marquis of 206. Laud 109. 127. 128. Lauderdale 838. Lawrence, Lord 207. 208, 226. Lawrence, Sir Thos. 89. Leech 98. 306. Lely 187. Leopold of Belgium 227. Lewis, Sir G. C. 204. Liverpool, Lord 328. Livingstone 208. Locke 224. 306. Longfellow 210. Louis Philippe 339. Lovat 126. 197. Lovelace 98. 138. 310. Lyell 206. Lvndhurst 281. 341. Lytton, Bulwer 213. 281. Macatday, Lord 126. 208. 230. 273. 274. Macaulay, Zachary 206. Mackintosh 206. 340. Maine, Sir H. 93. 204. Manning 306. Mansel 85. Mansfield, Lord 140. 204. 341. Marlborough , Duke of 127. 227. Marvell 187. 234. Mary I. 97. 216. 266. Mary II. 64. 215. 273. 274 Marv , Queen of Scots 215. Mason 210. Massinger 307. Mathews, Chas. 306. Maurice, F. D. 140. 207 May, Sir T. Erskine 198. Melbourne 85. Middleton 88. 93. Mill 116. Milman 84. 87. 89. Milton, John 92. 97. 97. 101. 138. 189. 190. 199. 210. 236. 268. 348. Monk 215. Monmouth, Duke of 126. Montagu , Lady Mary Wortley 232. Montagu, Mrs. 23-3. Montpensier, Due de 216. Moore, Sir John 88. Moore, Thos. 274. 281. More, Sir Thos. 101. 108. 126. 140. 197. 305. 306. Mulready 306. Myddelton 274. 344. Napier, Adm. 86. Napier, Sir Chas. 86. 150. Napier, Gen. Wm. 86. 226. Napoleon III. 281. Nelson, Lord 87. 89. 149, 314. Newcastle, Duke of 203. Newton , Sir Isaac 128. 138. 147. 205. 229. 231. Newton, John 111. Norfolk, Duk p of 98. North, Lord 98. 199. Northumberland, Duke of 126. 336. Dates, Titus 94. Oldcastle 197. Opie 89. Otway 127. Outram 115. 207. 203. Overbury 126. Owen, John 306. Palmeraton 199, 203. 344. 345. Paoli 208. Partridge 338. Paxton 318. Peabody 107. Peel, Sir Robt. 91. 191. 199. 204. 345. 356. Penn, Wm. 94. 127. 128. 145. 274. 349. Pepys 110. 144. Perceval , Spencer 205. 345. Peter the Great 114. 128. 145. 231. Philippa, Queen 218. Phillips 210. Picton 86. 89. Pitt, Wm. 140. 203. 206. 232. 337. Pocahontas 360. Pollock, Sir Geo. 208. Pope 312. 339. 340. Priestley 277. Prior 210. 22i. Purcell 205. Radcliffe, Mrs. 274. Raffles, Sir T.S. 205. 237. 345. Raglan, Lord 224. Rahere 95. 96. Raikes 115, Raleigh 123, 127, 198. Randolph 144. Rennie 89. 112, 120. 147. Reynolds 86. 89. 231. Richard I. 199. Richard II. 121. 123. 219. Richard III. 121. 123. 125. Richardson, Sam. 93. 138. 337. Rodney 86. Rogers 97. 228. 274, Ross, Sir John 306, Rossetti 306. Rothschild 271. Roubiliac 150. Rowe 209. 224. Rupert, Prince 144. Russell, Earl 206. 224. Russell, Lord John 334. 212. 348. Russell, Lord Wm. 127. 183, 344. 348, Sackville 138, St, Evremont 210. — John 312. — Vincent 86. Sale 145. Schomberg 226. Scott, Sir G. G. 208. 339. S el den 140. 142. Seymour, Lord Adm. 126. Shadwell 210. 305. Shaftesbury , First Earl of 140. 306. Shaftesbury , Seventh Earl of 203. 232. 306, Shakspeare, Edm. 308. Shakspeare,Wm. 100. 101. 103. 108. 117. 142. 147. 209. 231. 241. 307, 344, 356. 361, Sharp, Granville 209. Sheppard, Jack 94. Sheridan 230. 845. Shirley 234. Shovel , Sir Cloudesley 208. Shrewsbury, Talbot, Earl of 212. Siddons, Mrs. 222. Sidney, Algernon 344. Simpson, Sir James 222. Skelton 199. Sloane, Sir Hans 242. 305. 306. Smith, Jas. 150- Smith, Capt, John 94. Smith, Sydney 90. 306. OF EMINENT PERSONS. 365 Somerset, Protector 81. 126. 14G. 197. Somerville, Mrs. 306. South 210. Southampton , Earl of 127. Southey 209. 224. Speed 97. Spenser, Edm. 199. 210. Spargeon 309. Stafford 127. 211. Stanhope, Earl 207. Steele 98. 306. 340. Stephenson, Robt. 205. 208. Sterne 274. Stillingfleet 93. Stow 109. Strafford 127. 197. Stratford de Redcliffe 203. Street 208. Surrey, Earl of 145. Sutton 98. Swedenborg 130. Swift 306. Sydenham, Dr. 199. Tait, Abp. 210. Telford 222. Tennyson 343. Thackeray 98. 209. 273. 281. 306. Thirlwall 98. 208. Thomson 209. 334. Tierney 206. 337. Tietjens, Mme. 306. Tillotson 140. Tonson 337. Toplady 224. Turner 87. 89. 177. 183. 187. 306. Tyler, Wat 64. 97. 113. 316. 359. Tyndale 81. 115. Usher 140. Victoria, Queen 61. 106. 268. 270. 273. Wade, Gen. 207. Wales, Prince of 127. 227. 281. Wallace, Wm. 97. 127. 197. Waller 349. Walpole, Hor. 233. 339. Walsingham 337. Walton, Isaac 138. 344. Walworth 64. 97. 113. Warwick 93. 126. Watt, Jas. 217. 229. Watts, Dr. 99. 207. Wellington, Duke of 85. 89. 107. 271. 277. 356. Wesley, Chas. 207. 224. 233. Wesley, John 207. 98. 99. Wesley, Susannah 99. West, Ben. 89. Whittington, Rich. 95. 103. 342. Wilberforce, Wm. 205. 281. 345. Wild, Jonathan 94. William I. 120. William III. 215. 227. 270. 273. 274. 313. 328. William IV. 111. 352. William of Wykeham 352. Wiseman, Card. 303. Wither, Geo. 94. 148. Wolcot 187. Wolfe 124. 221. 315. Wolsey 117. 188. 328. 353. Woodfall 305. Wordsworth 206. Wren, Sir C. 81. 84. 89. 101. 112. 190. 224. 227. Wyatt 127. 197. Wycherley 187. Wycliffe 81. York, Duke of 217. 227. Young 223. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF EMINENT PERSONS MENTIONED IN THE HANDBOOK The following is a list of distinguished persons mentioned in the Handbook in connection with their birth, death, residence, burial-place, and the like. It does not profess to give the names of architects and other artists where mentioned in connection with their works, nor does it enumerate the subjects of the portraits in the National Portrait Gallery and elsewhere. Abercromby, SirRalphSS. Aberdeen, Earl of 204. Abernethy 96. Addison 98. 208. 215. 217. 226. 274. 306. 340. Adelaide, Queen 227. Alton, Sir Robt. 214. Albany, Duke of 353. Albert, Prince 107. 280. 353. 357. Aldrich 224. AUeyne 309. 324. 327. Andr^ 207. Andrews, Bp. 307. Anne, Queen 82. 215. 270. 273. Anne of Denmark (wife of James I.) 146. Arbuthnot 306. Argyll, Duke of 209. 273. Ame 187. Arnold 207. 348. Arundel, Earl of 126. 145 Ascham, Roger 94. Askew, Anne 127. Atterbury 306. 207. Bacon, Lord 140. 342. Bailie. Joanna 340. Balfe 205. Baliol 127. Barham 90. Barrow 98. 208. 224. Barry, Sir Chas. 208. 149. Baxler 148. 309. Bazalgette 70. 115. Beaconsfleld , Lord 95. 191. 199. 2U3. 349. Beaumont 101. Becket 103. 146. Bell, Dr. And. 208. Bennet, W. Sterndale205. Bentinck 232. Berkeley, Bishop 187. Blackstone 98. 143. Blake. Adm. 199. Blake, Wm. 99. Blessington, Lady 281. Blow, John 205. Bolevn, Anne 126. 188 Bolingbroke 123. 312. Bolton 96. 236. Booth 99. 210. Boswell 138. Bourne, Vincent 224, Boyle 227. 229. Bradshaw 197. Brasaey, Lady 279. Brougham, Lord 281. 140. Browning 210. Bruce, David 127. Brunei 116. 130. 206. 306 Buckingham , Duke of 116. 214. 216. 268. Buckland, Wm. 207. Buckle 306. Bulwer Lvtton 281. 213. Bunyan 99. 3u9. Burdett Coutts, Baroness 26. 137. 236. 342. Burgoyne 226. Burke 349. Burleigh Lord 148. Burney 205. 203. Burns 115. 209. Busby 210. 224. Butler, Sam. 187. 210. Buxton, Sir T. F. 205. Byron 230. 232. 272. 342. 345. Cade, Jack 6i. 119. 316. Calamy 148. Calonne 328. Cambridge, Duke of 271. Camden 93. 208. Campbell 209. Canning 199. 203. 230. 337. 338. 353. Carlyle 304. 306. Cartwright 224. Casaubon 208. Castlereagh 2' 3. 337. Catharine of Arragon 117. Catharine of Braganza 146. Catharine Howard. Queen 12ii. Cave 99. Cavendish, Lord F. 199. Caxton 198. Chapman 234. Charles I. 151. 188. 197. 260. 347. Charles II. 106. 189. 215. 270. 304. Chatham, Lord 203. 366. Chaucerll3. 148. 210.309. Chesterfield 234. Child 233. Churchill 224. Clarence, Duke of 125. Claypole, Eliz. 216. Clive, Lord 233. Clive, Kitty 339. Clyde, Lord 208. 226. Cobbett 138. Cobden 204. Cobham 127. 197. Coke 349. Coleman, Geo. 224. Coleridge, S.T. 93.209.341. 342. Collingwood 87. 89. Congreve. Wm. (the poet) 207. INDEX. 367 Bethnal Green 67. 32. 108. 342. Museum 131. Bible Society, 118. Bickley 83. Billiard Rooms 15. Billingsgate 26. 113. Birdcage Walk 267. Birkbeck Lit. & Scient. Inst. 139. Birmingham 4. Bishopsgate Station 36. 342. Bishop's Road 36. — Wood 341. Blackfriars Bridge 117. Station 117. — Metrop. Railw. Sta- tion 37. 117. Blackheath 316. 32. Blaekwall 131. 313. 34. — Tunnel 131. 358. Bloomsbury Square 234. Blue Coat School 92. Board of Trade 190. Works 69. Boarding Houses 9. Boating 48. 337. Boat Races 48. Bodegas 11. Bolt Court 138. Bond Street 234. Boodle's Club 227. 74. Books on London 80. Booksellers 19. Borough, the Hi. 307. — Market 26. 309. Boston to Liverpool 3. — to Queenstown 3. Botanic Gardens 240. Botanical Society 237. Bow Church 101. — Station 33. — Street Police Court 186. Boxing 48. Boy Messenger Co. 56. Brandenburgh House337. Brassey Museum 279. Breakfast 6. Brentford 336. 338. 349. 32 Brewers' Hall 103. Brickendonbury 344. Bridewell 117. Bridgewater House 276. Britannia Theatre 42. 108. British Artists , Society of 45. British Museum 242: Anglo-Roman and Anglo-Saxon Rooms 263. British Museum : Asiatic Saloon 264. Assyrian Gallery 254. Bronze Room 261. Ceramic Gallery 264. Coins 262. Egypt. Antiquities 256. Elgin Room 250. Ethnographical Collec- tion 264. Etruscan Room 261. Inscriptions' Room 243. King's Library 245. Library 243. 26fi. Manuscripts 244. 243. Mausoleum Room 2.53 Medal & Gold Orna ment Rooms 262. Mediaeval Room 263. Nereid Room 253. Newspaper Reading Room 245. 266. Prehistoric Antiquities 263. Print Room 264. 245. Reading Room 265. Refreshment Room 257. Sculpture Gallery 247. Students' Room 245. Terracottas 262. Vase Rooms 260. Brixton 33. Broad Sanctuary 225. Broad Street Station 33. 137. Brockley 34. Bromley 32. 33. Brompton Oratory 303. — Station 37. 36. Brondesbury 36. 33. 47. Brooks's Club 73. 227. Brook Street 234. 237. Broxbourne 344. Buckhurst Hill 342. 343. Buckingham Palace 268. Bunhill Fields Cemetery 99 BurlingtonArcade24. 228, — Fine Arts Club 74. — House 228. Burnham Beeches 349. Bushy Park 333. Cabs 27. 5. Caen Wood 341. Cafes 15. Camberwell 33. Cambridge Circus 151. Cottage 336. Hall of Varieties 43. Camden Road 345. 32. Town 236. 33. 34. | Canada 2. Cannon Street 119. Station 33. 119. Metrop. Station 37. 119. Canonbury 33. — Tower 236. Canterbury Theatre 43. Carlton Club 73. 227. — House Terrace 227.267. Castelnau 338. Castle Hill 349. Catholic Apostolic Churches 235. 51. 186. Cattle Market 25. 131. Cavalry Club 74. Cavendish Square 232. Central Criminal Court 94. Central House for Nurses for the Poor 241. Central London Meat Market 99. 25. Chalfont Road 348. 36. Chalfont St. Giles 348. Chalk 361. Chalk Farm Station 32. 34. 238. Chancellor of the Ex- chequer's Office 190. Chancery, Court of 140. Chancery Lane 68. 139. Channel, Passage of the 4. 5. Chapel Royal 266. Chapels, Baptist 51. Congregationalist 51. — , Independent 51. — , Methodist 51. — , Swedenborgian 51. — , Unitarian 52. Charing Cross 151. Bridge 149. Hospital 72. 149. — Road 151. — Station 32. 149. Metrop. Railw. Station 37. 149. Charities 72. Charlton 316. 359. Charterhouse 98. 78. Chatham 361. 33. Cheapside 100. Chelsea 304. 68. Botanic Gardens 305. — Bridge 312. — Embankment 117. 304. Hospital 304. 78. — Old Church 305. — Suspension Bridge 304. Chemical Society 228. Chenies 348. 368 INDEX. Cherry Gardens 313. Chesham 36. 349. Cheshunt 344. Chess 15. — , river 348. Chester 4. Chesterfield House 234. Child^s Bank 144. — Hill 345. Chiltern Green 347. Chingford 343. Chipping Barnet 346. Chiswick 338. 34. 37. Chorley Wood 348. 36. Christchnrch 311. Christie and Hanson's Auction Rooms 228. Christ's Hospital 92. Cigar Club 74. Cigars 2. 20. Circulating Libraries 16. City, The 67. 68. 81. — Carlton Club 74. — Companies 70. — Liberal Club 74. — of London Club 74. — School 116. — Police, Headquarters of the 104. — Temple 94. Civil Service Co-opera- tive Society 26. Civil Service Supply As- sociation 26. 148. Clapham 328. 33. 34. — Common 312. Clapton 32. 108. Clare Market 186. Clarence House 267. Clearing House 106. Clement's Inn 140. 145. Cleopatra's Needle 116. Clerkenwell 67. 99. Clifford's Inn 139. 140. Clothworkers' Hall 110. Clubs 73. 74. Coaches 31. Coal Exchange 114. Cobham Hall 360. Cocoa Tree Club 227. 74. Coffee-houses 15. Collections, etc. 78. College of Arms 119. — of Music, Royal 281. 73. — of Physicians 151. — of Preceptors 235. — of Surgeons 183. 78. Collins's Music Hall 43. Colne, the 349. Colney Hatch 311. Colonial Institute, Royal 74. — Office 191. Columbia Market 26. Comedy Theatre 41. Commercial Docks 181 Commissionnaires 55. Concerts 44. Confectioners 15. Congregational Memorial Hall 137. Congregationalist Chapels 51. Conservative Club 74. 227. Constitution Hill 270. Constitutional Club 151. 74. Consulates 49. Consumption Hospital 137. Cookery, School of 283. Coombe House 328. Maiden 328. Co-operative System 26. — Working-Societies 26. Cooper's Hill 351. Copped Hall 343. Corn Exchange 110. CornhiU 109. Corporation Art Gallery 103. Corporation of 'the City of London, Free Lib- rary of the 102. County Council, London 69. Court Theatre, Royal 41. Coutts's Bank 149. Covent Garden Market 25. 148. 186. Theatre 40. 186. Coventry Street 231. Covs^ling Castle 361. Crane Court 138. Cremorne Gardens 304. Crev/e 4. Crichton Club 74. Cricket 47. Crimean Monument 226. 85. 88. Criminal Court 94. Criterion Theatre 41. 231. Crockford's 228. Cromwell House 342. — Koad 285. Crosby Hall 107. — Obelisk 311. Crow^n Jewels 124. Croydon 33. 34. 46. Crystal Palace 317. 44. 78. Cumberland Lodge 357. Curtain Theatre 100. Custom House 2. 114. Cutlers' Hall 93. Cycling 48. Dalston 33. 34. 108. 137. 343. Daly's Theatre 41. 231. Dartford 32. 359. Datchet 351. Denison Club 74. Denmark Hill 33. Dentists 20. Deptford 68. 25. 32. 131. 358. — Road 36. Derby 4. — , the 46. 328. Devonshire Club 227. 74. — House 279. Dining Rooms 11. Dinner 10. 11. parties 71. Directories 71. Disposition of Time 77. District Messenger Serv. Co. 56. Dives' Flour Mills 312. Divine Service 50. Docks 129. Doctors' Commons 118. 147. Dorchester House 278. Dorking 34. Doulton's Pottery Works 311. Dover to Calais 4. — to Ostend 4. Downing Street 190. Drainage System 70. Dramatic Clubs 74. Drapers' Garden 106. — Hall 106. Drawing Rooms 267. Drury Lane Theatre 40. 186. Duke of York's School 305. Dulwich 324. 33. — Gallery 324. 78. Dunstable 347. Dutch Church 106. Ealing 349. 37. 32. Earl's Court 34. 36. Earlsfield 34. East End 67. — India Co.'s House 109. Docks 131. United Service Club 74. East Sheen 334. Eden Palace 42. Edgware 345. 32. Road 233. INDEX. Edgware Road Station 36. Education Ofiice 190. Eel Pie Island 339. Egham 361. Egyptian Hall 43. 228. Eleanor's Cross 149. 151. Electric Railway 88. 113. Electrical Engineering, School of 73. Elephant and Castle 28. 33. 77. 309. Elephant and Castle Market 26. Theatre 42. Elephant Tavern 109. Els tree 345. Eltham 360. Ely Chapel 95. — Place 95. Embankment Gardens 115. 149. Embassies 49. Empire Theatre 231. 42. Enfield 32. Entertainments 42. 43. Epping Forest 343. 32. Epsom 326. 48. Erith 32. 353. Ethical Societies 52. Eton 356. Euston Sq. Stat. 32. 235 Evans's 187. Exchange, Royal 106. Exeter Hall 148. Exhibition Galleries 300. Exhibitions of Pictures 45. 110. Expenses 1. Farringdon Street 94. 117. Station 36. 95. Feltham 351. Fenchurch Street 109. Stat. 34. 110. Fetter Lane 139. Finchley Road 36. 345.33. Finsbury 68. — Park 32. — Technical College 283. Fire Brigade 70. 308. Fishing 47. Fish Markets 25. 97. 114. Fishmongers' Hall 113. Flaxman Gallery 235. 78. Fleet Brook 94. 137. 341. — Prison 137. — Street 137. 117. Floral Hall 186. Flower Market 25. 186. — Shows. 240. 282. Flys 28. Folkestone to Boulogne 4. Football 47. Baedeker, London. Foreign Cattle Market 131. Foreign Churches 52. — Office 191. 268. Foresters' Hall 43. Forest Hill 34. 324. Foundling Hospital 236 78. Fox-hunting 46. Free Hospital, Royal 145. — Libraries 16. French Hospice 137. Hospital 72. Protestant Church 234. Friends' Meeting Houses 51. Frogmore Lodge 356. Fruit Market 25. 186. 97. Fulham 337. Furnival's Inn 95. Gadshill 361. Gaiety Theatre 40. 148. Gallery, National 152. 78. , NationalPortrait 132. 78. 152. Games 47. 48. Gardens, Botanic 240. — , Chelsea Botanic 305. Public 43. Zoological 237. Garrick Club 187. 74. Theatre 41. 151. Gas-lighting 66. 69. Gates of London, Old 63. General Hints 70. Geographical Society 230. Geological Museum 230. 78. — Society 228. George Lane 342. German Athenaum 74. Hospital 108. 72. — Reed's Entertainment 43. Gibson & Diploma Gal- leries 229. 78. Gipsy Hill 38. Globe Stairs 313. — Theatre 41. 145. Gloucester 4. Gloucester Road Station 37. 36. Goldsmiths' Hall 100. Golf Links 47. Gore House 281. Gorhambury House 347. Gospel Oak 33. 343. Gough Sq. 138. Government Offices 190. 268. Gower Street 235. Station 36. 235. 9th Edit. Grafton Gallery 45. — Hall 45. Grand Theatre 42. 236. Grantham 4. Gravesend 32. 360. Gray's Inn 139. 140. — Thurrock 358. Great Eastern Railway Market 26. — Fire 65. 81. 113. — Marlow 32. — Missenden 349. — Scotland Yard 190. Greenhithe 358. 360. Green Park 270. Arch 271. Green Room 74. Greenwich 313. Hospital 313. Observatory 315. — Park 315. — Railway 32. Gresham Club 74. College 103. Grill Rooms 11. Grocers' Hall 104. Grosvenor Club 234. 74. — House 275. — Road 33. Bridge 804. — Square 233. Grub Street 98. GTiards' Club 74. 227. Guildford 34. Guildhall 101. — Library 102. — Museum 103. 78. — Picture Gallery 103. 78. — School of Music 116. Guilds 71. — Central Technical College 73. 283. Gunnersbury 83. 36. 37. Guy's Hospital 309. Gymnastics 47. 48. Hackney 68. 137. 32. 33. 241. 343. Haggerston 137. 33. Hainault Forest 343. Halfway Reach 358. Halifax to Liverpool 3. Ham Common 339. — House 388. Hamilton Gardens 272. Hammersmith 838. 36. 33 Hampstead 340. 68. — Heath 340. 33. Hampton Court 328. 339. 78. — Wick 339. 24 370 INDEX. Hanover Chapel 232. Humane Society, Royal Kew 334. 333. — Square 232. 150. 272. — Botanic Gardens 334. Hansoms 27. Hungerford Market 149 336. Hanwell 349. 311. Hunting 46. ~ Bridge Station 335. 33. Harcoiirt House 232. Hurlingham Club 74. 337 34. Harefield 348. Hyde Park 270. — Cottage 335. Harpenden 347. Hyde Park Corner 271. — Gardens 335. 36. 78. 33 Harrow 345. 36. 32. 348. - Green 335. Hartshorn Lane 151. Imperial Institute 282. — Observatory 336. Harwich to Antwerp 5. 78. 74. - Palace 335. — to Hamburg 5. — Theatre 42. Kilburn 36. 32. — to Hoek van Holland 5. Independent Chapels 51. Kingsbury 36. 347. — to Rotterdam 5. India Museum 801. 283. King's College 146. Hatfield 346. — Office 191. 26^. Hospital 186. Haverstock Hill 345. 32. Industrial Exhib. 44. King's Cross Station 32. Hayes 349. Ingress Abbey 358. 235. Haymarket 226. Inland RevenueOfflcel47, Metrop. Railw. - Theatre 40. 226. Inns of Chancery 140. 95. Station 36. Hendon 345. 32. — of Court 68. 139. Kingsland 108. Henley 32. Institute of Architects 73. Kingston 339. 33. — Regatta 48. — of Painters in Water- King Street 199. Heralds' College 119. Colours 45. King William Street 111. Hereford 4. Institution of Civil En- Kit-Cat Portraits 337. 344. Heme Hill 33. gineers 73. Heme's Oak 356. International Exhibition Ladies' Clubs 74. Hertford 344. 283. — Mile 272. — House 278. - Hall 45. — University Club 74. Higham 361. Ironmongers' Hall 109. - Victoria Club 74. High Beach 343. IrvingiteChurches 235,51. Lady Artists, Society of Highbury 236. 33. 34. Isle of Dogs 131. 45. Highgate 341. 32. 34. Isleworth 338. 34. Lady Guide Association — Cemetery 306. Islington 236. 33. 56. High Holborn 23S. Isthmian Club 228. 74. Lambeth 67. 68. Hints, General 70. Italian Opera 40, 186. — Bridge 310. Historical Sketch of — Palace 3I0. England 56. Jewish Synagogues 51. Langham Place 233. of London 62. Jewry, Old 103. Langley 349. . Hogarth Club 74. Jordans 349. Lansdowne House 277. Holborn 95. 236. Journals 17. Latimer Road 36. 37. — Viaduct 94. Junior Athenaeum Club Lalimers 348. Station 34. 94. 228. 74. Lauderdale House 342. Holland House 274. — Army and Navy Club Law Courts, New 144. Holloway 32. 236. 74. 227. Lawn Bank 340. — College 351. - Carlton Club 74. 2'27. Lawn Tennis 48. Holly Lodge 273. 342. — Conservative Club 74 Lea, river 47. 344. Holy Well 146. — Constitutional Club 74. Leadenhall Market 'i'l. Home Office 191. — Travellers' Club 74. 109. Home Park 356. Homerton 137. 33. — United Service Club — Street 109. 232. 74. Leather Trades School Honor Oak 33. 34. Justice, Courts of 144. 283. Hornsey 342. 32. Leathersellers' Hall 108. Horse Guards 190. 268. Kempton Park Races 46. Leicester Square 231. — Markets 26. Kennington Oval 304. Lesnes Abbey 359. — Racing 46. 312. 47. Levees 267. Horticultural Society Kensal Rise 33. Lewisham359.68.32.316. 282. 338. - Green Cem. 306. 349. Leyton 342. Hospice for French Pro- Kensington Gardens 273. Leytonstone 3^t2. testants 137. — Gore 281. Libraries 16. Hospitals 72. — High Street Station 37. Life Boat Institution 148. Hotels 5. 33. 34. 36. Limehouse 34. 313. Houndsditch 67. 110. - Palace 273. Lincoln's Inn 139. 183. Hounslow 34. Kentish Town 32. 33. 3i. 140. Hughenden 349. 336. 345. Linneean Society 228. INDEX. 371 Literary Clubs 74. — f^Enquiry, Dep. for 147. Liverpool 4. — Street Station 32. 337. Liverpool to London 4. Livery Companies 72. Lloyd's 107. Lodgings 9. Lombard Street 109. London Bridge ill. Station 34. — , Chatham, and Dover Rail. Bridge 117. — County Council 69. — Docks 129. — Ethical Society 52. — Institution Library 16 227. — Pavilion 42. — Stone 119. — University 229. 232. — Wall 63. 98. London to Amsterdam 5 — to Antwerp 5. — to Bremerhafen 5. — to Hamburg 5. — to Ostend 5. — to Rotterdam 5. Long Acre 188. — Shore 67. Lord Mayor's Show 71 Lord's Cricket Ground 47. 245. Lordship Lane 33. 324. Loudon Road 32. Loughborough 33. Loughton 342. Lower ThamesStreet 111. 113. Lowther Arcade 24. 149. — Lodge 282. Ludgate Circus 117. — Hill 117. Station 34. 117. Luton 347. Lyceum Theatre 40. 148. — Theatre 41. 152. Maida Vale 32. Maidenhead 32. Maiden Lane 187. Mall. The 267. Manchester Square 333. Mansfield House 110. M"ansion House 104. Station 37. 119. Maple's Cross 348. Marble Arch 271. Markets 25. Mark Lane 110. Station 35. 120. Marlborough Club 227 74. — House 2-27. Marlborough Road 36. Marshalsea Gaol 309. Marylebone 68. 237. — Church, Old 233. — Park 237. — Road 241. — Theatre 42. — Workhouse 241. Matlock 4. Mayfair 272. 303. Meat Market, Central 97. 25. Medical Examination Hall 116. Mercers' Hall 103. Merchant Taylors' Hall 108. School 98. Mermaid Tavern 101. 3Iethodist Chapels 51 Metropolitan Board of Works 69. — Cattle Market 25. — Fire Brigade 70. 308 — Improvements 69. — Meat Market 25. 97. — Music Hall 42. — Police District 69. — Railwavs 35. Mews, Roval 270. Mildmay Park 33. Mile End Road 110. Military Academy(Wool wich) 317. — Asylum 305. — Repository (Wool- wich) 317. Millbank Penitentiarv 304. Mill Hill 345. 37. llwall Docks 131. Milton Street 98. Mincing Lane 109. 3Iinisterial Offices 190. 191. Minories 67. 110. Mint, Royal 128. Street 309. Missionary Society's Mu- seum, London 100. Mitre Court 138. Mohawk Minstrels 44. Mond's Gallery 280. Money 1. Changers 50. Order Office 91. 54. Montague House 191.115. Monument. The 112. 18. Station 37. HI. Moore and Burgess Minstrels 44. Moorgate St. Station 30 Moravian Chapel 139. Mortlake 338. 3i. 35 . Museum , Royal Archi- tectural 225. — , Bethnal Green 131.78. — , Brassey 279. — , British 242. 78. — of Fish Culture 301. — , Geological 230. 78. — , Guildhall 103. 78. — , India 301. — , London Missionary Society 100. — , Military (Woolwich) 317. — . Natural History 2,^3. 73. -. Naval 315. — . Parkes 213. — , Patent Office 300. — , Soane 185. 78. , South Kensington 285. 78. , United Service 189.78. Music Hall, Royal 43. Halls 42. , Guildhall School of 116. , Royal Academy of 232. , Royal College of 281. Musical Union 44. Muswell Hill 342. National "Agricultural Hall 44. Club 74. Gallery 152. 78. — Liberal Club 151. 74. 115. Life Boat Institution, Royal 148. Portrait Gallery 132. 78. 152. Provincial Bank 108. School of Cookerv 283. Natural History Museum 283. 78. Naval and Military Club 228. 74. Naval Museum & School (Greenwich) 315. Neasden 36. 347. Nelson's Column 150. New Burlington House 228. College 241. Court 119. ■ Cross 316. 32. 359. 36. — Gallery 45. Newgate Prison 93, — Street 92. Newhaven to Dieppe 5. Newington 68. 24* 372 INDEX. New Inn 140. 146. — Jerusalem Churclies 51. Newlands Park 348. Newmarket Races 46. New Oxford Street 234. — Oxford and Cambridge Club 74. 227. — Scotland Yard 115. 191. — Somerville Club 74. Newspapers 17. Newton Hall 139. New Travellers'Club 228. 74. — University Club 227. 74. New York to Glasgow 3. to Liverpool 8. to Queenstown 8. to Southampton 2.3. New Zealand Chambers 109. Niagara Hall 44. Norbury 33. Northbrook Gallery 279. Northfleet 359. 360. Northumberland House 151. Northwood 36. 348. Norwood 83. 34. — Cemetery 306. Netting Hill 36. 306. Gate Station 36. Nurses' House 241. Oaks, the 46. 328. Observatory, Royal 315. Old Ford 32. 33. 342. — Jewry 103. Olympia 44. Olympic Theatre 41 145. 146. Omnibuses 28. 5. Opdra Comique 41. 146. Opera, Royal Italian 40. 186. Ophthalmic Hospital 149. Oratory, the 303. Oriental Club 232. 74. Orleans Club 74. 339. — House 339. Oxford 4. — Circus 232. — House 110. — Music Hall 42. — Street 233. — and Cambridge Club 74. 227. Oyster Shops 14. Paddington Station 32. , Metropolitan 36. Palace Theatre 42. 151. Pall Mall 225. Club 75. Panoramas 323. Panshanger 344. Pantheon 234. Pauyer Alley 92. Parade, the 268. Paragon Theatre of Va- rieties 48. Parcels Companies 55. — Post 54. Parkes Museum 213. Parkhurst Theatre 42. Park Street 309. Parliament, Houses of 191. 78. Parliament Hill 340. Parson's Green 37. Passports 2. Patent Office Museum 300. Library 17. Paternoster Row 68. 90. Pavilion Theatre 42. Peckham Rye 82. 38. Pembroke Lodge 334. Penge 34. People's Palace 111. Peterborough 4. Petersham 338. Petty France 268. Philadelphia to Liverpool 2. Philharmonic Concerts 44. Physicians, Royal College of 151. Piccadilly 228. — Circus 232. Picture Galleries (public) 45. 110. (private) 275-280. Pinner 36. 348. 32. Pioneers' Club 74. Playhouse Yard 117. Plumstead 359. Plymouth to London 4. Policemen 69. 71. Polytechnic Institution 233 Pool,' the 112. 129. Poplar 33. 34. Popular Concerts 44. Population 66. 69. Port, the 129. 112. Portland Place 233. — Road Station 36, 238. Portland to Liverpool 3. Portman Square 233. Portrait Gallery, Na- tional 132. 78. 152. Post Office 53. , General 53. 91. 92. Post Office Directory 71. Money Orders 54.91. Savings Banks 91. 118. Postal Districts 54. — Orders 54. — Regulations 53. 54. — Traffic 91. Poultry 100. 104. — Market 25. 97. Praed St. Station 36. Preceptors, Coll. of 235. Preliminary Ramble 75. Presbyterian Churches 52. Press Club 74. Prime Minister's Office 190. Primrose Club 74. ' — Hill 241. Prince of Wales Theatre 41. 231. Princes' Hall 45. 230. Princess's Concert Room 45 — Theatre 40. 234. Printing House Sq. 118. Prisons 93. 304. Private Apartments 9. Privy Council Office 190. Provincial Bank 108. Prussia House 227. Public Gardens 43. — Houses 11. — Offices 190. 191. Purfleet 358. Purley 34. Putney 337. 351. 34. — Bridge 37. 337. Quakers' Meeting Houses 51. Quadrant, the 232. Queen Victoria 61. Street 104. 117. Queenborough to Flushing 5. Queen's Gate 283. — Han 44. 111. 233. — Road Station 36. 33. 34. - Tobacco Pipe 130. — Warehouse 130. Queenstown 3. Races 46. Rackets 47. Radlett 345. Railways 32. Raleigh Club 232. 74. Ranelagh, the 305. Katcliff Highway 130. Reading 351. INDEX. 373 Reading Rooms 16. Record Office 139. Reform Club 74. 227 Regalia 124. Regattas 48. Regent Circns 232. — Street 232. Regent's Canal 131. — Park 237. Registrar-GenerarsOffice 147. Restaurants 10. 11. Richmond 334. 338. 351 Rickmans worth 348. 36. Rochester 32. 33. 361. Rolls Buildings 139. — Chapel 139. Roman Bath 146. — Cath. Churches 52. — Remains 63. Rosherville Gardens 43 360. Rotherhithe 68. 358. 36. Rotten Row 272. Routes to and from Lon- don 2. Royal Academy 229. 78. — Family 61. 62. — Institution 230. — Oak 36. 349. — Society 228. Royalty Theatre 41. Rugby 4. Ruislip Park 348. Runnimede 351. Russell Square 234. Rye House 344. Sacred Art, Gall, of 45. — Harmonic Society 44. Saddlers' Hall 101. Sadler's Wells Theatre 42. St. Albans 346. — Alphage's Church 98. 315. — Andrew's Church 94. Undershaft 109. — Ann, Blackfriars 118. — Bartholomew's the Great 96. the Less 95. Hospital 95. — Bride's 138. — Catherine Cree's 109. — Clement Danes 145. — Dunstan in the West 138. — Etheldreda's 52. 95. — George's Cathedral 311. Cemetery 274. Church 232. St. George's Circus 311. Salters' Hall 119 Club 232. 74. Hall 45. 233, — Giles, Cripplegate 97. in the Fields 234. — Helen's Church 108. — James's Church 230. , Curtain St. 100 Club 228. 74. Hall 44. 231. 232. Palace 266. 227. Park 267. Station 37. 225 Square 227. Street 227. Theatre 40. 228. — John's 316. 359. Church 99. Gate 99. Wood Road 36. 238, — Jude's 110. — Katherine'sDocksl29 Hospital 241. — Luke's Hospital 311 — Magnus the Martyr's Church 113. — Margaret's Church 198. Station 334. 344. — Martin in the Fields 150. — Martin's Vestry Hall & Public Library 151. — Mary le Bow 101. le Strand 146. Undercroft 198. the Virgin 152. Woolnoth 111. — Mary's Church 141. , Battersea 312. — Mary's Station 36. — Michael's 109. — Olave's 110. — Paneras' 235. , Old 236. Station 32. 235. — Patrick's 234. — Paul'sCathedral81.78 Church 187. Churchyard 90. — Station 34. 117. Peter's 109. Peter ad Vincula, Chapel of 126. Peter's College 224. — Quintin Park 34. — Saviour's Church 307 — Sepulchre's 94. — Stephen's 104. Club 74. 115. Crypt 197. ■ Swithin's Church 119. Thomas's Hospital309. 200. 117. Sanctuary, Broad 225. Sandown Races 46. Sanitary Institute 73. Sardinia Catholic Chapel 186. Savage Club 149. 74. Savile Club 229. 74. Savings Bank 151. Savoy Chapel 148. — Palace 148. — Theatre 40. 148. School Board, London 70. — , — Office of 116. — of Art Needlework 283. — of Cookery 283. Scotland Yard 190. 191. Scottish Club 74. Seamen's Hospital 314. Season 1. Selhurst 33. • Serjeants' Inn 139. Serpentine 270. 272. Sevenoaks 31. Shadwell 34. 36. 131. — Market 26. Shaftesbury Avenue 152. — Memorial 232. — Theatre 41. 152. Shepherd's Bush 36. Shoe Lane 138. Shooter's Hill 317. Shops 19. Shoreditch 67. 33. 108. 137. Siemens' Telegraphic Works 317. Sion College 16. 116. Sion House 336. 338. Skinners' Hall 120. Sloane Square Station 37. Slough 349. Smithfield 25. 97. Snaresbrook 342. Snow Hill 357. Soane Museum 185. 78. Societies 73. Society, Antiquarian 22S. Archery 237. of Arts 148. 78. Astronomical 228. —\ Botanical 237. , Chemical 228. , Geographical 230. — , Geological 228. , Horticultural 282. , Humane 150. 272. — , Linnsean 228. — of Painters in Water- Colours 45. , Royal 228. |— , Toxopholite 237. 374 INDEX. Society, Zoological 237. Soho Bazaar 24. 234. — Square 234. Somers Town 236. Somerset House 146. 116 Sout.hall 349. fSouthampton to Bremer- haven 5. — to Cherbourg 5. — to Cuxhaven 5. — to London 4. — to St. Malo 5. South EasternRailway32. Southend 32. South Kensington Mu seum 285. 78. Station 37. 286. South London Fine Art Gallery 309. Palace of Amuse- ments 43. South Place Ethical So- ciety 52. Southwark 67. 68. — Bridge 120. 101. — Park 309. Spa Road 32. 359. Spitalfields 67. 108. — Market 26. Sporting Clubs 74. Sports 46. 47. 48. Stafford House 275. Staines 349. 351. 32. 34. Stamford Bridge 47. Standard Theatre 42. 103. Staple Inn 95. 140. Stationers' Hall 90. Statistical Society 149. Statistics 69. Statue of Achilles 271. — of Prince Albert 95. 280. 107. — of Queen Anne 82. — of Lord Beaconsfield 199. — ofDukeofBedford235. — of Lieut. Bellot 314. — of Lord Bentinck 232. — of Brunei 116. — of Burgoyne 226. — of Burns 115. — of Byron 272. — of Colin Campbell226. — of Canning 199. — of Carlyle 304. — of Charles L 151. — of Charles II. 106.305. — of Duke of Cumber- land 232. — of Lord Derby 199. — of Queen Elizabeth 106. 138. — of Forster 116. Statue of Fox 234. — of Franklin 226. — ofSirBartleFrerell5 — of George II. 314. — ofGeorgelll. 102. 147 226 357. — of George IV. 150. — ofGeneral Gordon 150. — of Havelock 150. — of Lord Herbert 227. — of Rowland Hill 107. ~ of Huskisson 107. — of James II. 190. — of Jenner 273. — of Lord Lawrence 226. — of J. S. Mill 116. — of Sir C. Napier 150. — of Lord Napier of Magdala 226. — of Nelson 150. — of Gen. Outram 115. — of Palmerston 199. — of Peabody 107. — of Sir R. Peel 91. 100. 199. — of William Pitt 232. — of Robt. Raikes 115. — of Richard Coeur de Lion 199. — of Shakspeare 231 — of Stephenson 235. — of Tyndale 115. — of Queen Victoria 106. 230. of Prince <fe Princess of Wales 231. ofWellingtonl07.271. 271. — of Wesley 100. — of William III. 227. of William IV. 111. of Duke of York 227. Steel Yard 119. Steamboats 2. 38. Steinway Hall 45. Stepney 34. 131. Stock Exchange 106. Stockwell 33. Stoke Newington 108. Poges 349. Stone Church 358, Store Street Hall 45. Storey's Gate 268. Stout 11. Strand 145. Strand Theatre 40. 146. tratford (Essex) 32. 342. Strawberry Hill 339. 334. 84. Streatham Hill 33. Strood 361. Sub-tropical Garden 312. Subways 113. 123. Sudbrook House 338, Surbiton 328. 35. 339. Surgeons, College of 183. 78. Surrey Docks 131. 309. — House Museum 324. — Side 307. — Theatre 42. 311. Sutherland House 275. Swedenborgian Chapels Swedish Church 130. Swimming Clubs 49. Swiss Cottage 36. 241. Sydenham 317. 33. 34. Synagogues 51. Tabard Inn 309. Tabernacle, the 309. Tattersall's 26. Technical Art School 283. Teddington 334. 339. 34, Telegraph Office 65. 91. Telegraphs 55. Telephones 55. Temperance Hotels 9. Temple 141. 116. — Bar 143. 344. — Church 141. 78. — Gardens 142. — Station 37. Tennis 48. 47. Terminus Hotels 6. Terry's Theatre 41. 148. Thames, the 67. 336. 356. Ditton 328. 34. 339. Embankment 70. 115. Tunnel 130. Thatched House Club 74. 227. Theatres 39. Theobalds Park 344. Thorney Isle 200. Thornton Heath 33. Tilbury Fort 359. 32. Docks 131. Time 2. , Disposition of 77. Times Office 118. Tiyoli Theatre 42. Tobacco 2. 20. Dock 130. Toole's Theatre 41. 149. Topography 67. Tottenham Court Road 234. Tower 120. 78. — Bridge 128. — Hamlets 69. Hill 127. — Subway 128. Toxopholite Society 237. Toynbee Hall 110. INDEX. 375 Trafalgar Square 149. — Theatre 41. Tramways 31. Travellers' Club 74. 227 Treasury 190. Trinity Church 110. — College 73. 233. — House 127. Trocadero 42. Turf Club 74. Turnham Green 36. Tussaud's Waxwork Ex- hibition 43. 241. Twickenham 334. 339. 351. 34. Tyburn 237. Tyburnia 237. 303. Underground Railways 35. Union Club 74. 151. Unitarian Chapels 52. United Service Club 74. 226. Institute 189. Museum 189. 78. United University Club 74. 226. University Boat Race 48 337. — Clubs 74. — College 235. Hospital 235. — Hall 235. — Sports 47. 48. 241. Uxbridge 349. 32. — Road 34. 36. Vaudeville Theat. 41. 148. Vauxhall 327. 34. — Bridge 304. Vegetable Market 25. 97. 186. Vegetarian Restaurants 14. Verulamium 346. Veterinary College 236. Victoria and Albert Docks 131. Victoria Club 74. — Coffee Music Hall 43 — Embankment 115. 200 — Park 137. Station 137. 33. — Station 33. 303. (3Ietrop.) 37. — Tower Gardens 199 Virginia Water 351. 357. Visits 71. Walham Green 37. Waltham Abbey 343. — Cross 343. Walthamstow 343. Walworth Road 33. Wandsworth 337. 33. 34, Wapping 130. 86. War Office 227. Ware 344. Warwick 4. — Lane 93. Watergate 115. Waterloo Bridge 147. — Junction 35. — Place 226. — Station 34. 147. — Steps 226. Waterlow Park 342. Watford 346. 32. Wellington Barracks 268 124. Wellington Club 74. Welsh Harp 345. — Presbyterian Chapel 151. Wembley Park 348. 43. Wendover 3i9. Wesley's Chapel 100. Westbourne, the 270. — Park 36. 349. West Brompton 37. 33. Westcombe Park 359. West Drayton 349. — End 67. 145. (station) 345. Lane 33. — Hampstead 36. — India Docks 131 34. Westminster 68. — Abbey 200. 78. — Bridge 199. Metrop. Railway Station 37. — Column 224. — Guildhall 225. — Hall 196. — Hospital 225. Palace, New 191. School 224. — Town Hall 225. West Thurrock 358. Whitchurch 345. White's Club 74. 227. Whitebait 313. Whitechapel 67. 110, — Station 36. Whitehall 188. — Club 74. — Gardens 190. Whittington Almshouses 342 Willesden Green 36. — Junction 32. 33. Will Office 147. Wiirs Coffee House 186. Williams' Librarv 16. Wimbledon 328. 34. Windham Club 74. Windmill Hill 360. Windsor 349. 351. 34. Wine 11. 24, Wine Office Court 138. Woodford 342. Woodhouse Park 43. Woolwich 316. 32. 358. Arsenal 316. 359. — Dockyard 317. 359. Worcester 4. Wormwood Scrubs 34. Wravsbury 351. Writers' Club 74. York Column 227. Road 33. Zoological Gardens 78. — Society 237. Leipsic. Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. m hS7 i& APR 1^2^^^' JUN18 2004 i UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY B 000 005 637 4