^&Aav^ c^ ^WEllNIVERJ/^ £2 ' =S v^lOSANC[ r-rt <: ^imm ^,OFCAllF AS^fcmoPM. 4? vr a. V;lOSANGElfj> ^^tLlBRARY(9/ ^ 1 1(7 - ^ ^OfCALIFO/?^ ^^l•LIBRAi ^•aOJITVJ ^OFCAlll •sQii'!^ ^OFCALIFORj^ ^OFCAilFOM,^ vr 5" ^ ^^WEUNIVERS/^ ^lOSANCElfj> ^OAavHaiH^ ^OAavaan^ ^ _ .. .^ ca — — . ■ mJONVSOI^ o ^/Sil3AINIl-3^V .^^0FCAIIF0% ^OFCA1IFO% "^^AHvaaiii^ '^clOSANCElfj}> jiivjjo^' ^' clOSANGElfj> ■^Aa3AINn3WV \V\E UNIVERVa o ,\MEUNIVERy//, vj,lOSANCElfj> o ^ILIBRARYd?/:^ -<^lLIBRARYa^ ■^/5a3AIN03WV vS:lOSANCElfj> ^OFCALIFO/?^ ^OFCAilFO/?^ FOREST I'l^"^ IS CEYLOT^. rOB'MT BY W. KNIGHTON, M.A. XN TWO VOLUMES. mmST AKD BLACKETT, P^LISEEUS, ,3, GBT^^T MAULBOUOUGH STUEEl. 1854. LONDON : Printed by <*{G — ELKS AND ELEPHANTS .... 294 CHAPTER X. THE PAKSEES — ZOROASTER ..... 319 CHAPTER XI. HORMANJEE ....... 337 APPENDIX. THE REIGN OF PKACKKAMA THE GREAT . . . 390 PREFACE. In journeying through a desert the eye of the traveller lingers with interest and pleasure upon the oasis he has left, and which he is not again likely to revisit ; and so, in the life of every man, there is probably some period of shorter or longer duration on which the memory, in subsequent years, delights to dwell. Of such a character to the author was his residence in Ceylon. During four years he lived in that interesting island as a Coffee-planter and the Editor of a VI PREFACE. newspaper, and those four years were so filled witli incident, with employment, with variety and adventure, that, despite the pecuniary losses sus- tained in a ruinous speculation, they have ever since afforded him ample and pleasing themes for reflection. In the following pages it has been his aim to give an interesting, and, at the same time, a truthful picture of jungle Hfe — such a picture as may bring it before the mind of the European reader without exaggeration or false glitter. The scenes described and the incidents recorded are such as every resident in the East will acknow- ledge to be common and usual to a life spent in the recesses of an Oriental forest. • In such a life, scenery, inhabitants, costume, and charac- teristics are so different from those to wdiich the novice has been accustomed in his European home, that they have for him at first all the effect of enchantment. It was the author's lot to return from the East before this fresh feeling of PKEFACK. Vll pleased surprise had been quite removed — before the novel charm of Oriental life had worn off, to give place to satiety and monotony. The lives of a Parsee and of a Kandian chief — which will be found, the one at. the conclusion of the first, the other near the end of the second, volume — are intended to show how strangely the old life of the East, with its antiquated habits and forms of thought, is influenced by the new hfe of the progressive West — busy, busthng, and innovating. These accounts are founded upon facts related to the author by Parsees and Bud- hists. Hormanjee and Marandlian, indeed, are fictitious names, but such men have lived, and are living, in. India and Ceylon ; nor are the events recorded of them more extraordinary than those which, for the last fifty years, have been con- stantly occurring, wherever Eastern and Western races have been brought into collision — a collision as much of souls as of bodies. Vlll PREFACE. There is something inexpressibly pleasing in thus minutely recalling some of the happiest passages of one's early life, particularly when the strong light of reality has been mellowed into a twiUght glow by the lapse of a few intervening years ; so that if the reader receive but a tithe of the pleasure in its perusal which the author has obtained from the compilation of this work, the labour of both will have been amply re- munerative. London, November, 1853. FOREST LIFE C E T L K CHAPTEE I. ARRIVAL IN CEYLON— GALLE TO COLOMBO. " I would entreat thy company To see the wonders of the world abroad." Two Gentlemen of Verona, act i., so. 1. I WAS leaning over the side of the good ship, Parsee, watching a nautilus hoisting sail, and steering its tiny shell over the ocean, when the Captain, who had been as usual peering through a telescope, muttered to the chief officer, " yes, it's very plain. I see it distinctly." " See what ?" I asked. " Ceylon," said he ; "I told you we should see it to-day." He handed me the telescope — a group of pas- VOL. I. B 2 LOOKIXG OUT FOR LAND. sengers, attracted by the interesting informa- tion, surrounded us, some armed with, glasses of their own, others eagerly awaiting a loan of one. I strained my eyes ; I looked intently in the direction indicated ; I readjusted the glass, and wiped the lenses ; I looked again as ear- nestly as if some important result depended on the issue, but, in vain ; I saw no Ceylon : other passengers were equally unsuccessful. One tall j^^ellow-haired man, that prided himself on his nautical dress and knowledge, declared he did, but no one ever minded what he said. " You don't see it," said the Captain, " that's strange — it's very distinct — -just on the horizon, by the end of the jib-boom — look again." " Keep her three points off," said he to the steersman, as he walked away. I looked again, but there was the same im- penetrable haze on the horizon — everything misty and obscure. " Very distinct indeed," said the chief officer, as he too walked away. The sun was shining as fiercely as the sun only can shine towards the end of May at the Equa- tor. We were all griUing — the boards of the ship hot — the pitch and tar clammy on the ropes, and in the oakum between the planks of the deck LOOKING OUT FOR LAND. 3 — ^the awning scorching — the air agitated into the faintest possible wind, dry and stifling — whilst an incessant drop, drop, drop, coursing each other from the forehead to the neck, plainly proved that there was still moisture left in us. " "We must see it," resolved the passengers, and away we went in a body, into the broiling sunsliine, to the fore-part of the ship. The tall man with the yellow hair, smiled at our want of nautical vision, and followed us — the ladies, one by one, threw handkerchiefs and veils over theu' necks, and came too. " This is much better," we all exclaimed, as we poised our glasses, like rifles, some on the bulwarks, some on the ropes, and looked in- tently. Still it was no use ! not a hill the size of a grain of sand could we discern on the hori- zon, close by the jib-boom or elsewhere — all was haziness and impenetrable gloom ahead, watery- looking decidedly, but, to our unpractised eyes, far from land-looking. The ladies tried. One lad}^ thought she discerned something. " Bravo," said the tall yellow-haired man, in ecstacy, " you see it. I thought you would, as I placed the glass." She looked again. " Why, bless me," said she, " that's the end of a stick, of that stick there b2 4 LOOKING OUT FOR LAND. with the sail tied to it — the jib — -jib, what do you call it?" It was tantalizing to know that the glorious island was right ahead, visible to the eye of the Captain, the chief officer, and our tall yellow- haired friend, and that we could not even faintly discern it. Yet so it was, and so it continued to be all that day. With heroic per- severance we combated the sun and the heat, again and again, but all to no purpose — at last coming to the conclusion that imagination had a great deal to do with the matter, and that the Captain, the chief officer, and the yellow- haired man, knew the land ought to be there, and therefore they saw it. Even during the night, before we went to bed — a clear star-light night, without a moon — we gazed intently in the direction indicated, as if then, without glass or sun, we might per- chance succeed in catching a ghmpse of the wished-for island. Those only who have spent four monotonous months on the ocean, without touching at a single port, as was our case, can realize to themselves the eagerness with which the weary passengers look out for land. And Ceylon too ! such an island of mysterious in- terest and beauty — " its breezes, perfumes ; its SIGNAL FOR PILOT. 5 forests, the rarest and clioicest trees; its peb- bles, gems," as a flowery writer describes it. Only two of us had ever been there before — the only two that seemed to know nothing of the island indeed, for all the others had read of it, had talked of it, had studied it ; they, on the other hand, thought they should have enough of it when they got there, as had been the case before, and were therefore but too anxious to banish it from their thoughts. The next morning the line of hills on the horizon, although still distant, was near enough to be distinctly seen by the naked eye — ^the sea had lost much of its deep blue shade, and was more greenish and dull, even the sun did not appear to shine so brightly to those whose thoughts were drawn off from a contemplation of him, and fixed on the island, on which we soon hoped to enjoy liberty and the delights of shore, after we had escaped from the imprison- ment of our floating castle. The Par see was bound for Point de Galle, on the south-western coast of Ceylon, and it was not until the following morning, that we neared the harbour sufficiently to fire off a gun as a signal for a pilot ; for, open and safe as the bay looks, it is filled with sunken rocks 6 PILOT BOAT. and hidden dangers of all kinds. The - line of green vegetation which fringed the si consisting entirely of cocoa-nut trees, contrast ^ beautifully with the wliite foam of the sea as broke impetuously on the rocks, wliilst, fai away in the harbour, masses of white and red, without apparent order or regularity, indicated the to\\ai. Above all rose the eternal hiUs, stretching away liigher and higher into the distance, and ending in irregular, hazy lines of considerable elevation, particularly to the north, where Adam's Peak was pointed out to us — by far the most celebrated of Ceylonese mountains. We fired another gun — the loud booming report coming back to us from the shore, as if the genius of the place resented our intrusion and the noise — and, as the Captain swept the harbour Avitli his glass, he descried a boat pull- ing towards us, and was satisfied. I shaU never forget the impression made upon me by that boat and its occupants, as it slowly came nearer and nearer to the huge vessel. About the boat itself there was, perhaps, notliing that, in any other place, would have much attracted my attention ; but when I compared it with the unclad, attenuated individuals that occupied it, it seemed to me the widest and deepest boat, APPEARANCE OF ITS CREW. 7 for' s length, I had ever seen. In England, b] ' associates the idea of stout frames, well r >apped up, glazed hats, and groggy -looking aces, with a pilot-boat, or any other, in fact, that makes its way at all into the sea. To my unsophisticated eyes, the crew of this boat appeared to be tame monkeys. So completely was my conception of humanity mixed up with clothes and white or black skins, that it was, for a time, impossible for me to realise to my- self the idea that these gibbering, long-armed, brown, naked animals were fellow-creatures. Even now, after having had many years' ex- perience of the East, I still believe that more unfavourable specimens of the natives of Ceylon could scarcely have been met with than those in that boat. Tliree of them were old men, their ribs too distinguishable through their leather-like skin, their arms dry and slirivelled ; yet their advanced age was not to be seen at once — their long, bony, and muscular arms, deprived of every particle of fat ; their fingers rendered remarkable by the white nails at the tips ; the palms of their hands white from con- stant labour; and the contrast between their brown, shrivelled-up, wrinkled skins, and the scanty white or blue cloth which they wore round their loins, all formed a picture so like PORTUGUESE PILOT, that which a party of tamed monkeys would present, that it was not without disgust I gazed at them — disgust, mingled with something of indignation, that these animals should be of the same species as myself. Nor did the griz- zled beards, and the bare, shaggy heads, from which they had removed then- straw fisher- men's hats, tend to improve the picture, or make them more human-hke. My feehngs were shared by my companions, and, as we muttered to each other, " These are the natives," we could not help wondering how humanity could degenerate into such figures ; forgetting that the want of dress and difierence of colour were the only real points of contrast between them and similar specimens of our own countrymen. Our Portuguese pilot interested us much ; he was dressed in a neat nautical uniform; a blue jacket, tightly buttoned up, white unmen- tionables, and an enormous straw hat that con- trasted oddly with the sHght form wliicli it crowned — a form which, although far from tall, appeared to be so, in consequence of its extreme spareness ; his face and hands were much darker than those of the natives ; but, strange to say, whilst we were astounded by the dusky brown skins of his crew, we saw nothing wonderful in SINGHALESE CANOE. 9 the black one of the pilot ; so apt are we to take the accustomed for the natural, the unac- customed and strange for the unnatural. The anchor had scarcely been dropped ere we were surrounded by a little fleet of boats of the most heterogeneous characters. The majority of- them had the curious "outrigger," peculiar to Ceylon and some of the Pacific Islands. A hollowed trunk forms the canoe-proper, and, from one side of it, project two or three beams, to the end of which is attached a solid block of the shape of the canoe itself, but considerably smaller. This contrivance prevents the boat from upsetting, and as the outrigger, as it is called, is always of a light, buoyant wood, even should the canoe fill with water, the conse- quences are not likely to be serious. The occupants were not less strange and new to us than were the spider-like machines which they guided so skilfully. The long hau* tied up on the back of the head, with a high tortoise-sheU comb stuck into it, the petticoats — scanty though they were — and the small feet and hands, were all things we were so much accustomed to asso- ciate with the idea of the fairer sex, that there was something repulsive in seeing them belong to fellows with huge black beards and mous- B 3 10 DEESS OF THE SINGHALESE. taches; wliilst, to our wondering eyes, there seemed no other difference between the men and women than the presence or absence of the beard. True, one becomes famiharised to these things after a time ; but I do not think any one can first witness them without a sentiment of disgust — so utterly incongruous do the long twisted hair, with the crowning comb, appear to be with the hirsute and unshaven faces. But these were the Singhalese-proper alone. There were, besides, several Moors, more man-hke in their habihments and character, and infinitely more dangerous to the purse of the newly-ar- rived European, or " Griffin," as he is elegantly styled. The small white cap stuck on the very top of his shaven crown, gives the Moorman of Ceylon and the Southern Indian coast quite a distinctive character, which is rendered more marked by the ample volume of the cloth girdle, worn round his waist, and in which he keeps his money, his accounts, his writing materials, and, very often, liis stock in trade too. Om" decks soon presented a strange appear- ance. Singhalese and Moormen having ob- tained the Captain's permission to come on board, were wandering about to effect sales of their various wares, oddly contrasting with the Moormen's jewels. 11 sun-burnt countenances and square forms of tlie sailors, forms with whicli our long voyage had made us so intimately acquainted. The scraps of English the Asiatics had picked up, and of whicli they now made their utmost use, rose shrilly above the din of ropes being coiled up, sails furled, hatches opening, chains rattling, and all the other usual concomitants of a ship's arrival in port. The Moormen, for the most part, had "jewels," toys, ornaments, and knick- knacks of various kinds for sale. People natu- rally expect to find jewels in an island so cele- brated for them, from the time of Plin}^* to the present day. As the wily Asiatic produces a little bundle from his ample girdle, carefully wrapped up in man}?- folds, and, after a time, exhibits, imbedded m the downiest cotton, some sparkling particles, whispering the im- posing name "diamonds," the European feels as if it would be folly to lose the cliance — he is a young officer going home from Calcutta or Madras, or an enterprising traveller from China or Singapore — ^there are sisters, cousins, and fair flames afar ofi", awaiting presents, and he thinks if he can get the whole quantity for a trifle, it will be very hard indeed if there be * Vid. Hist. Nat. vi. 22. 12 ^ ASIATIC CRAFT. no real ones, however small, amongst tliem; and so he makes an offer — he is almost ashamed to make it, so small an offer for so valuable a collection. The crafty Asiatic grins, laughs outright, but submissively, at the sum named, and commences to refold his store, glancing sideways at the victim to see if the laugh has not moved him, and then offers the collection for double liis bid. John Bull often bites at this — he has been but nibbhng before — and exclaiming, "Well, it is but a trifle after all," pulls out his purse. Should he still continue immovable, however, he will have them at his own price, for Moorman protests he must sell them to get a little bread for himself and his star^dng children, although they cost him so much more. But what does Jolin find them to be when he gets home ? The following inci- dent will show — a true incident, well known to most of the residents at Point de Galle : — Mr. E,., an English merchant there, had imported some coloured glass. Several panes were smashed in the landing, and all the broken pieces were thrown into an empty barrel in his warehouse. There they lay un- heeded for a time, until Zambo, a well-known Moorman, made his salaam to Mr. E. one GLASS DIAMONDS. 13 morning, just as he had arrived at home after his matutinal ride. " Well, Zambo," said the Englishman, *' how do you do ? What brings you so early ?" " You - have - got - the - broke - up-glass-in-your- godowns,-Saar," said Zambo. "Broken glass," said the merchant, musing. "Yes, yes, there were several panes of that coloured glass broken. I suppose they're there stiU." " Your - coohes - do - steal - it - every - day - 1 know," said Zambo mysteriously. " I-will-buy- it-all-at-once-now. ' ' Grlad to get so worthless an article ofF his hands, Mr. E. readily consented to Zambo's proposal, and agreed to let him have the glass at his own. price. " And now, Zambo," said the Enghshman, "may I ask what you want with the glass ?" Zambo looked round to see that there was no one witliin hearing-distance, and then, stretching his hairy chin forwards, said " You- no-tell- though ?" "TeU," said the merchant, "no, I don't want to tell anything. Wliat do you want this glass for?" "To-make-diamonds-for-steamer-passengers," 14 LANDING AT CEYLON. said Zambo, his small grey eyes twinkling with cunning. No one need ask, after having heard that, what our friend Jolin wiU find his diamonds, emeralds, and garnets to he, when he reaches the paternal roof. This sort of trade is almost entirely confined to the Moormen, by far the most expert retail dealers in the island. I was not disposed on landing to encumber myself with jewellery, wisely consideruig that if precious stones were so common in Ceylon, I should have innumer- able opportmiities of collecting them whilst living in the jungle. The scene wliich presented itself on landing had all the interest and freshness of unwonted novelty for us. Accustomed, as I had been, previously to an English life, diversified by two hurried trips to the Continent alone, there was nothing in the reminiscences TNdth which my memory was stored to detract from the novelty of the picture that now spread widely around us on every side. The small huts of mud, with their cocoa-nut leaf thatch; the wicker-work trays exhibiting heaps of chillies or other equally piquant stimulants ; the amazing variety of fruit common to all tro- APPEARANCE OF NATIVES. 15 pical countries ; the strange costume of the women and still stranger of the men ; their shrill voices as they called upon the passers- by to purchase, or loudly conversed with each other across the street, all — men, women, and children — squatted on their heels ; the fish- women, as in all countries, most voluble of tongue, light-hearted, and merry, exchanging badinage with the male passers-by, or making their own remarks on the pale faces — aU was new and striking, and told us, with all the eloquence of vision, that we had left the cold north behind, with its frosts and snows, and wintry chui-lishness, and brave battling with a thousand evils that more favoured chmes know nothing of, and that we had reached a land of the sun where there was food upon every tree, and clothing was little more than an encumbrance, where the battle of life was not for existence, but for luxury and enjoy- ment. The soldiers seemed the only melancholy objects in the bright, ever-moving panorama. Malays, with horsehair - like whiskers and moustaches, dressed up in the darkest and most sombre green, the "Ceylon Eifles" as they axe called, stood at their posts, or marched 16 FORT AND BAZAAR. or loitered about the verandah of their guard- house, as if they were only gloomy visitants upon the glorious island, but not of it — as if they felt that their execrable trade was a thing in which man should not rejoice, which should stifle all mirth — a necessary evil. It may not be so in other parts of the island, and I do not remember that the idea was impressed after- wards upon my mind, but certainly the first few specimens of the Ceylon Rifles that we saw loitering about the great archway that leads from the harbour into the old Dutch fort suggested the idea of gloom, moroseness, taciturnity, and cruelty to our entire party. The fort itself was by no means so interest- ing an object to us as the bazaar that stretches along the shore without it. The kaleidoscopic aspect of that strange scene was gone, and the lines of glistening white houses, with their green or black Venetians, diligently barri- cading them from the sun and the intense glare without, were but poor substitutes for it. Arrived at the hotel, which, with very questionable taste, like almost all the other European buildings, is situated within the fort, our party separated. Some, fatigued with their walk, spoke energetically of beef- PALANQUIN CAERIAGE. 17 steaks and pine-apples, as they threw them- selves upon the various couches, whilst others, of whom I was one, ordered vehicles to call upon those to whom they had letters of intro- duction. I had but one visit to pay, to a merchant of whom I had no personal know- ledge, but whom my uncle, the head of a mer- cantile house in Colombo, wished me particu- larly to become acquainted with ; so, having fii'st enjoyed the luxmy of a glass of Allsopp or Bass, I made my way into the palanquin- carriage, — a conveyance not very disisj^imilar from a London cab, denuded of its coach-box, save that Venetian bhnds take the place of the panelled sides and glass front — and was soon rapidly whirled along tlirough a few nar- row and uneven streets to my destination. Yet although the vehicle was one that not even an idle crossing- sweeper would turn to gaze after in London, and although the horse was only a respectable grey hack, without either pomts or sores, what a sensation we should have created in the Strand or Eegent Street, had our course lain there instead of tlirough Point de Galle ! At the head of the horse, and firmly grasping the rein in one hand, whilst in the other he held a short whip, ran a wild savage-looking 18 SINGHALESE DRIVER. fellow, with a red handkerchief wrapped round his head, and a scanty red cloth round his loins. Fast as the horse could trot did this Jehu scamper along by his side, bounding over the road with bare feet, his well-oiled skin ghsten- ing in the fierce rays of the sun as the moving muscles of the back caught and reflected the light. I thought it was very barbarous, but what could I do ? it was " the custom of the country " evidently, for there was no coach- box on the carriage, and no one seemed to consider it strange. At length, as I saw a stream of perspiration making its way down his back between his shoulder-blades, I shouted out in English, a language of which he appa- rently did not understand a single word. He looked round, still running on as before. I cried out ^' stop " with an energy that I hoped would force him to arrest his wild race. He pointed with his whip as he turned round, and went on more rapidly than ever. Poor fellow ! he evidently thought that I was chiding liim for not going fast enough instead of being full of benevolence for him, so he cut the horse with a skilful back-hand stroke of the short whip, and coursed on still faster. I saw it was no use to attempt anything fui-ther, so SINGHALESE DRIVER. 19 I threw myself back, tired and hot, into the carriage, and allowed him to do as he pleased. I mentioned the matter to my newly-acquired friend on reaching his house, and he smiled, assuring me that every one went about so, that the natives were used to it, and that if I had spoken the language and told the syce or horse- keeper, to get up on the top whilst I drove, he would not have done so. Under these circum- stances, heartily as I pitied the poor fellow, I interfered no further, and, in the same vsdld style, we made our way back to the hotel — horse and man rushing madly along, up one street and down another, over shingle and gravel and a little piece of good macadamised road, with the same indifference. We passed another veliicle too, of the same kind, similarly led, and, as I felt assured from this, that other people were equally barbarous, my mind was quite relieved — a circumstance that might be well moralised, were one ^' i' th' vein," or did one feel one's self equal to it. We had a very comfortable dinner at the hotel — our party having diminished to four, of whom I was the only one intending to pro- ceed the following morning, by the mail coach, to Colombo. The native servants, in spotless 20 CONTENTMENT. white, petticoats and all — proud that they un- derstood how to wait at table — their black beards, and large tortoise-shell combs stuck in the back of their heads, appearing to me so incongruous, that I felt disposed to laugh every time I looked at them. Nor was it without a feeling of unpleasantness that I saw my plate handed about by the dark fingers — a transient feehng, which I distinctly remember having once felt, but which must very soon have passed away with use. After a long voyage, people are not disposed for some time to be very critical re- specting their meals. We found everything ex- cellent at our dinner, including the beef — the fact is, people get so much mutton on board, that, I believe, they would willingly declare the roast ribs of a sexagenarian cart-horse ex- quisite after a four months' voyage — my sub- sequent experience of Point de Galle did not lead me to believe that anytliing like good beef was ever to be got there in those days (1843), and therefore I attribute om^ satisfac- tion to our position and condition. There was something so completely novel in being waited upon by the brown natives in white garments; in the open room leading into an equally open verandah ; in the lai-ge fan, called FIRE-FLIES. 21 a punkah, pulled backwards and forwards by a servant, to create a cui'rent of air in the room — there was something so novel in all this, that one could not be critical ; and soup, beef, curry, tarts, and fruit, were all found to be equally excellent and palatable, although I have no doubt, had the same dinner been presented to any one of us a month after, we should have found the soup bad, the tarts worse, and the beef worst of all ; that, in fact, the cmTy and the fruits would be pronounced to be the only eatable things on the table. Indeed I must say, that notwithstanding the variety of Indian cookery — the pillaws, and coftahs, and cabobs, and kitchery of the presidencies — there is no place where better curries are made than in Ceylon, and this I say, not as a griffin just arrived from England, but as an experienced quyhy — one who knows Ceylon, and who has lived both in Madras and Calcutta. That evening I first made acquaintance with the fire-flies, and was surprised and dehghted with the appearance produced by numbers of them, shining like so many tiny stars upon a tree. The effect was altogether so strange and pretty, rather than grand or beautiful, that it looked far more like an artificial one, pro- 22 BED AND BED-ROOM. duced by the handiwork of man, than the simple operation of nature. Having heard that the coach to Colombo started at gun-fire, or the first faint dawn of day, I retired early, requesting to be called at four o'clock. The bed-room differed as much from what a bed-room would have been in England, as everything else in the house from their European prototypes. The object in it was to obtain air and some slight de- gree of coolness, not to be snug and com- fortable as one expects a bed-room to be in colder climes. A mat that crackled under the feet covered the floor. The bed itself was near the middle of the room, detached from the wall, completely isolated. Thin net curtains hung round it, tucked under the mattrass, which bore no similarity at all to a feather bed. The feet were elevated upon curious little blocks, that reminded one of extremely- small flower-pots, with an elevation in the centre to support them, a deep groove all round which, was full of water or some other fluid. I had no idea of the use of these stands at the time, but subsequently found that they prevented the ants from making their way into the bed, and that many other articles of fuini- THE PUNKAH-WALLAH. 23 ture, sucli as sideboards, were similarly pro- tected. Altogether, as I advanced lamp in hand into the apartment, it struck me that there was a cold, cheerless, uncomfortable look about it, even after having spent months in the cabin of a ship — a reflection that the oppressive heat of the atmosphere might have convinced me was a fooKsh one, for the cooler such an apartment could be made the better. The true model, indeed, of an Indian bed-room, is a large empty apartment, with a bed in the middle, surmounted by a fan or punkah, to be pulled backwards and forwards all night by servants employed for the purpose. In the Presidencies this arrangement is common — ^the rope from the punkah going through the wall into the verandah, where the punkah-wallah, as he is called, sits and nods — pulling, however, as he nods — easy, though monotonous work. To prevent his going to sleep over the operation — an accident that but too frequently happens, and wliich causes the sleeper within to start up bathed in perspiration, and infuriated with musquitoes — some benevolent individual has invented the plan of perching punkah-wallah upon a high stool, made for the purpose, when, if he goes to sleep, his balance must be lost, 24 EXCESSIVE HEAT. and he comes to the ground with sufficient vio- lence to wake him were he never so drowsy. I jumped into ni}^ novel bed at Point de Galle as yet innocent of the greatest plagues of Indian existence. The window, which looked into the verandah, with a garden beyond, had the glass compartments open and the Venetian shutters closed, wliilst the laths of the Vene- tians themselves were laid perfectly horizontal, to admit, through the interstices, as much air as possible. As I lay, covered with one flimsy sheet, I could see the stars through the window, peering brightly above the trees without, and the fire-flies flitting ceaselessly from leaf to leaf, and lighting up the dark shadows of a dark moonless night with ever- changing variety. I should have enjoyed the scene with infinitely more gusto, had it not been for the excessive heat. Throwing ofi" the sheet, with wliicli alone I was covered, was but a temporary relief. I tossed about from side to side to find some cooler corner, but as fatigue threw me into a short-lived doze, the stifling heat laid its hand heavily u^^on me, and I awoke with a sense of oppression and liquefaction that was anything but comfortable. At length, as I looked through the open arusQuiTOES. 25 jalousies of the window, it struck me that the net-curtains by which I was surrounded, thin as they were, must tend to increase the heat considerably, and to prevent that circulation of the cool night air about my person, which I so much desired. I wonder they don't think of that, I thought, as I threw the curtains up over the roof of the bed, — they have much to learn yet in order to accommodate this Indian climate to British constitutions. The change was dehghtful ; the cool air of the night with- out was wafted insensibly around me, and I dozed off into what promised to be a dehghtful sleep. I was awoke by a sharp stinging pain upon my forehead, accompanied by a similar sensation on both my feet. I put my hand to all three places successively, but could discover nothing, at the same time that a little rubbing on each was agreeable. Never mind, thought I, I have got rid of the excessive heat at all events, I shall soon be asleep. The quiet that now reigned in the house, assured me that the others had similarly sought their couches, but, like myself, as I afterwards learned, not to sleep. I had scarcely settled myself into a new and more comfortable position than any I had yet VOL. I. c 26 MUSQUITOES. found — I had scarcely had time to close my eyes, and fancy myself on the high road to a sound slumber — four o'clock always looming in the distance, as the hour of rising — when I felt a number of similar sharp pains over various parts of my exposed person, whilst a ringing "hum-m" in my ears told me of formidable enemies I had forgotten — the musquitoes. In getting rid of one evil by raising the curtains, I had induced another and a more formi- dable one. True, I was as yet, or rather I had been, up to this moment, ignorant of the ap- pearance and character of those blood-thirsty insects, save what I had heard from others, but their descriptions had made me too well ac- quainted with the pecuhar "hum-m-m," in which the little wretches deHght, to feel a doubt as to the nature of my assailants. The more I rubbed the places they had bitten, the more they swelled, until I was Hterally covered with small excrescences, red and pm'ple, such as a devoted attachment to the brandy bottle often produces upon the nose of the toper ; and, what was worse, each pimple itcliing most acutely. At length I could stand it no longer. I sprung from the bed, and determined to seek a light. I had, fortunately for my convenience, a small MUSQUITOES. 27 box of lucifers in my dressing-case, and soon lit the lamp. My first visit, lamp in hand, was to the looking-glass, in which I discovered my forehead all blotched over in the most fria"htful way. I then went to the bed, and as I held the light over the pillow, I saw two of the ugliest-looking Kttle monsters I had ever set my eyes upon. " These are musquitoes," I muttered, as I surveyed them — gnat-like in- sects, with swollen bodies, curved up at the tail. I brought my hand down heavily upon one of them, I fancy indeed he was too full to fly, and a blot of blood upon the pillow marked where he had been. I felt glad, although I knew but too well whose blood it was, that I had thus scattered; at the same time that sundry smarts upon my leg;? assured me that many of them had not yet had enough. I put down the lamp on a chair, and then jumped into bed, carefully tucking the curtains below the mattrass as I had seen them at first, preparatory to engaging in a general battue against all the musquitoes that they imprisoned. I commenced by arming myself with the pillow, and having swept it round the sides of the en- closure to collect them all as much as possible into the middle, I brought it down three or c2 28 A COUP-DE-MAIX. four times with terrible energy upon the bed. A sohtary clehnquent, however, was the sole re- sult, and as I surveyed him with interest, others attacked me in the rear, and I was obhged to renew operations. I found, after a time, that the pillow would not do — ^my exertions had thrown me into a perfect bath of perspira- tion, and only two victims the result ! so depo- siting the pillow in its place, I proceeded to close quarters, first wrapping myself well up in the sheet, and then endeavouring to squash my adversaries between my open palms. What other people without must have thought of the various noises I was making, if any were hsten- iug, I did not stop to inquire, for I was de- lighted to find that my new mode of procedure was more successful than the former. Clap, clap, clap, went my hands, and one after another of the assailants lost his life, until I could find no more of them. I then lay down, hot, weary, and exliausted with my recent energetic proceedings, and, notwithstanding the heat, fell asleep. I had not slept long, however, when I was again awoke by heat and musquitoes combined — some of the latter, I suppose, having made their way in subsequently, or escaped my san- SINGHALESE SERVANT. 29 guinary onslauglit. Again forsaking my bed, I partially dressed, and spent the remainder of that dreadfully long night in the verandah. Most heartily did I wish that the coach left at three instead of five, but wishes were unavailing, and, for more than three hours, I walked up and down, smoking the while, and listening to the strange hum of insect and reptile life, that makes the night of the tropics far noisier than the day. Wlien it was four o'clock, I returned into my room to dress. I had more than half got through my toilet, when a knock at my door informed me that the servant who had promised faithfully to wake me at four, had just awoke himself. It was then twenty minutes past, and as my kind Mentor informed me it was " plenty time for master to get up." I quite agreed with him, informing him at the same time that I had been up since two o'clock, and was then in expectation of coffee, not of being called. In ten minutes the coffee made its appearance, and as the old, grey-bearded " boy," (for, strange to say, they call all servants of all ages, hoys in Ceylon,) informed me that the coach office was not five minutes' walk distant, I had another long wait in the verandah, feeling considerably 30 COLOMBO MAIL. refreshed, however, by the abhition and the coffee. At length it was ten minutes to five, and, with a coohe or porter carrying my port- manteau, I bid adieu to the " hotel," and com- menced my journey to Colombo — my heavier luggage having been left in the Parsee, which was to proceed to Colombo in a few days. The moon had risen an hour before, and its light, with that of the stars, was sufficient to enable us to distinguish objects faintly as we went along. At length we arrived opposite a large door, with two stunted trees on each side. " Here, Saar," said the coolie, as he put my portmanteau down against one of the trees, exhausting in those two words nearly his whole available stock of English. I looked around, but saw no signs of coach or horses, of people or bustle. All was still. The coolie has made some mistake, thought I, and can't speak Enghsli. Perhaps the coach starts from some other place. " Wliere's the coach that goes to Colombo ?" shouted I in his ear, hoping, by the loudness with which I spoke, to make him comprehend me. " Here, Saar," said he again, as he coolly proceeded, having found a large stone, to ham COLOMBO MAIL. 31 mer it on the iron liinges of the door, shouting out some words all the time, that seemed in- variably to end with " man gee," in a singing tone. At length the violent knocking, and no less violent shouting, elicited a reply from within. The coolie turned to me with a grin, as if he would have said, " You see." I so understood his look at all events, and replied, "I see nothing extraordinary in your waking somebody with all that. But where's the mail- coach ?" " Here, Saar," shouted he again, grinning; and again commencing the vociferation of the Singhalese sentence invariably ending in " man gee." At length the door opened, and a huge, half-dressed, negro-like Portuguese stood before us. His black hair stood up straight from his head like the bristles of a hedgehog, and added some inches to his height, which was in itself great. " Does the coach start from here ?" I asked, delighted to see a pair of pantaloons under such circumstances. " Yes, Sir," he replied, squeakingly ; " in five minutes it will be off." " 0, then it only calls here," I observed. " No, Sir," said he, in a half-feminine, half- 32 DIFFICULTY OF STARTING boyish voice, tliat contrasted strangely witli his uncouth figure — " No, Sir, it starts from here ;" and, as he said so, T saw a strange waggon-Hke vehicle lumbering up to us, drawn by four coohes. This was the mail-coach — a miserable cart, with canvas curtains hanging down on either side, and room inside for six at the utmost, whilst the driver might possibly ac- commodate one or two on his box ! A flat roof covered it, whence depended the aforesaid canvas curtains, and on which I suppose lug- gage is sometimes packed. Two horses, that did not look as if they were particularly dis- posed to go on, were speedily harnessed, and after another delay of five minutes for the coachman, also a Portuguese, preparations were made for starting. It took the united force of the establishment — coachman, grooms, coolies, and all — to set the macliine in motion. Some turned round the wheels, others belaboured the horses, others pushed from behind, whilst two pulled vigorously at the horses' heads and ears. At length we were fairly ofl" — I the only pas- senger, my leathern portmanteau constituting all the luggage ! It was then a quarter past five ; when they would have started, had I not been going, I cannot conjecture. We rattled THE COLOMBO MAIL. 33 through the streets at a capital pace ; but to my surprise, as I looked round I found our vehicle literally covered with natives holding on, on all sides, hke shell-fish stuck to a ship's bottom. Even my friend the negro-like Por- tuguese, in the same elegant deshabille, was sitting composedly on the step by which I had mounted. I thought it very odd, but for a time said nothing. At length I asked my mop-headed companion whether they were all coming to Colombo. " No, Sir," he squeaked out; "but there's another start at the post- office." That explained it, and I was satisfied. Arrived at the post-office, we stopped. There was a man in the verandah to be woke first, which took some time. He then proceeded to wake those within, by a repetition of the same process my coolie had employed to wake the " mail-coach office." There was the same ham- mering of a stone on the iron-work of the door — 'the same vociferation of sentences ending in "man gee" — the same intervals of repose and renewals of the assault, and with the same re- sult, A voice answered from witliin ; the door was slowly opened; and at length the mail- bags were deposited in Her Majesty's mail- c 3 34 SECOXD STAKT. coach. I have heard that there are many strange veliicles employed by the post-office in England to convey letters about, mcluding hand and wheel-barrows, with the royal arms on them ; but I do not think that in all Her Majesty's dominions there was a conveyance in 1843 that would have more surprised the royal lady herself, had she seen it starting, than the Galle and Colombo mail-coach. Portuguese mop-head was right. There was another start ; and again was the enthe force of the mail coach-office put in requisition — aided by sundry volunteers jfrom the post-office — to set us in motion, and again with the same triumphant success. We rattled under the gate of the Fort, and were gone. I looked round, but grooms, Portuguese, and coolies had disappeared. Their morning's duty was performed, and they were doubtless retiring to sleep oif the fatigue of the exertion. What amused me most was the perfect gravity with which the whole operation was gone through. There was no smihng, no loud laughter, no jest or answer. It seemed to be regarded by all as far other than a laughing matter. The scientific precision with which the horses' ears KOAD TO COLOMBO, 35 were grasped — the grim determined air with which the spokes of the wheels were handled — the dogmatic sternness with which the horses were flagellated — all showed that it was an accustomed affair, too common to be at all amusing — rather, indeed, the reverse to all parties. The Portuguese coachman, a native groom, and myself constituted the entire occupants of the vehicle ; and right glad was I when I saw the sun rising over the forests and hills on our right, as we made our way rapidly along a beautiful road, hned on either side by masses of cocoa-nut trees — their graceful stems and the dehcate tracery of their foliage becoming every moment more distinct. Occasionally we were near the sea, its waves breaking into foam on one side, wliilst thick vegetation bounded our path upon the other. The road, throughout the entire distance, was beautifully variegated by wild and culti- vated scenery, and yet it was completely level, scarcely a hill to compare even with Ludgate, throughout the entire journey of more than seventy miles. Occasionally we caught glimpses of fishing-boats making their way out to sea or returning to shore, whilst on land, as we 36 BUDHIST PRIEST. passed tlie various villages, the people seemed to be employed principally in tlie expressing of oil from tlie cocoa-nut by a rude species of machinery, turned by the most diminutive of bullocks. Women were to be seen occasionally pounding rice in a wooden mortar with a large iron-shod stick for a pestle, labour that seemed to be by far the most active and energetic in which any portion of the people were employed. Tliree or four times during the journey, a priest of Budha passed us by — to me one of the most interesting of objects, anxious as I was to learn sometliing of the strange faith which the Budhists professed. The yellow robes of these priests, encircling the body and legs, and thrown over the right shoulder, whilst the left remained bare — the small leaf-fan which they held in theh hands — theu' abstracted air, so befitting those who professed to have higher thoughts than " of the earth, earthy " — all tended to invest them with an interest in my mind far superior to that with which I regarded any other class of the inhabitants. Generally speaking, they passed us by, without so much ag lifting theu' eyes to the carriage, making one almost beheve that they had succeeded in effecting what appears to be the great object of FEMALE DEESS. 37 their philosophy and religion — the detachment of the mind from all cleaving to external ob- jects, and the fixing of it on itself, and on higher subjects of meditation. I was as yet by no means reconciled to the colour of the Singhalese, and therefore regarded, more with disgust than benevolence, the troops of naked children whom we saw playing in every village or in the neighbourhood of the cottages. Occasionally the little imps treated us to a friendly cheer as we passed, and there was so much that was human in the honest sound that I felt it open my heart to them ; but, for the most part, they contented them- selves with a quiet, silent stare, and then a short run after the vehicle. As for the women, I do not beheve it would be possible for female humanity to dress itself more unbecomingly than the majority of the Singhalese do. Some, indeed, I remarked who dispensed with all covering above the loins, but they were chiefly old withered hags, engaged in beating the coir which surrounds the cocoa-nut. Those w^ho were more respectable wore a white jacket, closed in front, loosely dangling over their shoulders and breast — no attempt whatever being made to fit it to the shape, or to confine it 38 FEMALE DRESS. at tlie waist. A piece of cloth wrapped round the lower part of the person, resembhng scanty pet- ticoats, and similar to what the men wear, formed their nether habiliments, whilst between the two a dreadful hiatus was often left, disclosing a considerable portion of the chest or stomach, over which the white jacket above projects un- gracefully, the further in proportion to the ful- ness of the bust, thereby casting a shadow on the exposed skin below, that renders the contrast between it and the white jacket all the greater. Altogether, a more unbecoming and a more ungraceful dress it would not be easy for women to adopt ; and yet I found that this abominable style was general tliroughout the island amongst the middle classes. The higher classes show some attention to elegance, by fitting the vest, to a certain extent, to the figm-e ; but such women are only to be seen in the interior, or in remote villages, where the chiefs have taken up their abodes. As we made our way briskly to the north, occasionally impeded by the difficulty of getting some fresh horses to start, and sometimes cross- ing wide rivers or small arms of the sea in large flat-bottomed boats prepared for the pur- pose, I was joined by two gentlemen from some BREAKFAST. 39 of the stations in the neighbourhood, who were likewise on their way to Colombo. We stopped at a village called Bentotte, about half-way be- tween Galle and our destination, for breakfast. The village is celebrated for its fresh and salt water fish ; and a more palatable or more ex- cellent breakfast, of its kind, it would not be easy to get anywhere than the hospitable little rest-house at Bentotte afforded us. The light curry and rice, or fish and rice breakfasts usually partaken of in India and Ceylon, are admirably adapted to the climate, and to the European constitution — far more so, I beheve, than the extensive and heterogeneous collections of viands with which Anglo-Indians load their tables at dinner. The views afforded by the wider river-estu- aries on the road from Galle to Colombo par- ticularly as one approaches the latter town, are strikingly beautiful, as examples of what might be called landscape-garden scenery. The broad expanse of water closely hemmed in by thick fohage nodding over the banks of the stream, and stretching far up into the country in wind- ing, luxurious, and graceful curves, wants but the light skiff of the West, with its glistening white sails, to render it picturesque as well as 40 CALTURA. beautiful. At Caltura, one of these outlets, the wild loveliness of the scene is enhanced by the ruins of an old Dutch fort, situated on the only hill near the mouth of the river, and as the traveller is wafted slowly across the broad and placid sheet of water, he must have a quiet imagination indeed, if he does not associate traditions and tales of bravery, and war, and love, with the old moss-covered walls that look down so silently and sad upon the variegated landscape below. COLOMBO. 41 CHAPTEE II. COLOMBO AND THE CINNAMON GARDENS. " In Ephesus I am but two hours old, As strange unto your town, as to your talk." Comedy of Errors, act ii., sc. 2. But few, even of oriental towns, are built in so scattered a manner as the capital of Ceylon. The old Dutch fort forms the nucleus, on all sides of which stretch the Em-opean and native suburbs. Due north and south, hning the sea- shore, are situated detachments of neat white houses, with picturesque verandahs, occupied by the European community, whilst in an island formed by the Colombo lake — a flat, unvarie- gated island, by no means of a picturesque character — others of the same fraternity, parti- cularly mihtary, have taken up their quarters. From these different stations, the drive into the fort, the great centre of Governmental and mercantile business, is a pleasant one — the 42 SHOPS AXD WAREHOUSES, roads, for the most part, skirting tlie sea or tL lake. East from tlie fort lies the native town or pettali, as they call it, a collection of narrow intricate streets, in wliich Singhalese, Malabars, Portuguese and Dutch descendants, Moormen and Parsees, are all to be found in close proxi- mity to each other, professing as many different kinds of faith, and speaking as many different languages. The main street of this district is entirely occupied by shops and warehouses, where the native merchants and shopkeepers carry on their business, and it would not be easy to find elsewhere, a collection of goods so various and miscellaneous, as some of these shops contain. Chandeliers, plate, dressing- cases, crockery, cloth, shawls, haberdashery, cigars, harness, saddlery, and perfumery, are all to be found in the well-stored warehouse of Neine Mereker for instance, a celebrated Mohammedan shopkeeper of this street. Neine Mereker is a small instalment of the name of the owner — the only portion of it known to Eu- ropeans — for the entire appellation is lengthier than that of a Portuguese princess. "Well, Sir, what you want to-day?" asks Neine, as your buggy draws up before the door, making his portly way cai*efiiUy through a crowd MOHAMilEDAN SHOPKEEPER. 43 ,.' more plebeian purchasers — that is, of pur- jjhasers who do not drive buggies. " I want some cheroots, Neine," is the an- swer. " Aha, you know I got plenty good cheroots in the other day, Sir, fresh from Singapore ?" says Neine, as he again makes his way through the crowd — " you not seen these new dressing- cases I got from Paris, day before yesterday ?" " No, I have not," says the complaisant visitor, " they're very pretty. But they make these in Birmingham, Neine." " No, no, no — ha, ha ! — no, no. Sir, they not make that kind in Birmingham, I know. They make plenty good in Birmingham, but not that kind. All from Paris. Now look at these papier r7iac/ie things. You think that come from Birmingham. I know, no. All Paris, all Paris. See, plenty pretty pictures, eh ! The ladies do like them so much. There was Mrs. Cubb," whispers Neine confidentially, mentioning the belle of Colombo, " did want to make her hus- band buy one, she wanted it so much. But he's aU the same as one black bear — he turns his back to her, to look at his watch, and says he is plenty time to go home." So sapng, Neine leads the way to the glass case in which a 44 MOHAMMEDAN SHOPKEEPER. tempting display of patent leather boots and shoes is presented to the eye of the visitor. " Hoby's boots, Sir," he mutters, as he points to the glistening collection. Saddlery comes next. Neine points to a specimen — "same kind Prince Albert rides on," he insinuates, "all London made, Christy's, plenty good." The visitor, still taciturn, is next swept past a case of harness, and so Neine would take him all round his shop, certain of finding something he would buy ultimately, did not the impatient visitor speak of " cheroots" again. " Ah, ah, I know," says Neine, disappointed, and opening a large chest, in the immediate vicinity of the spot whence they had set out, displays a tempting array of boxes of five hundred and a thousand, Nos. 2, 3 and 4— all fresh from Manilla, he declares, for Neine is well aware that the Manillas, unhke the Havan- nahs, do not improve with age. If it be a lady that he thus escorts, Neine has a whole host of articles to show her fresh from London, from Paris, fr'om Canton. Silks, shawls, bonnets, and flowers, all, strange to say, obtained within the last few days ; not an article a week old in his shop by his own account ; nor do I doubt that he will often show FOKT OF COLOMBO. 45 to the fair purchasers the very counterpart of the last bonnet worn by Her Majesty herself. Shopping may be a pleasant thing for ladies in London, and doubtless pleasant it is to judge by the quantity of time devoted to it, but I doubt if it can be considered pleasant under any cir- cumstances in India or Ceylon. The intense heat, and the unpleasant close smell of any col- lection of new goods, of whatever kind, render- ing the shops almost unsupportable. The Fort of Colombo is a very large and a very badly constructed one. I have heard mihtary men say that it would take five thou- sand men to garrison it properly. At the time of which I speak, there were seventeen gunners in it, and two companies of a European regi- ment. It is situated on a rocky projection, nearly in the middle of the western coast, washed partially by the sea on three sides, and with a lake stretching away to the south- east. There ai'e several small streets in it, Hned with low houses on either side, some occu- pied by merchants as ofl&ces and warehouses, others by Em-opean shopkeepers, and a few used as dwelling-houses by subaltern military officers and others. Government house, where the Governor resides, a large pubHc library, two churches, a bank, the principal offices of Govern- 46 FOKT OF COLOMBO. ment, together with a small esplanade, and barracks, are all hkewise contained within its walls. From all sides in the morning, may be seen buggies and dog-carts, and palanquin- carriages (with grooms running at the horses' heads, or %ing behind hke the tail to a boy's kite, attached by one arm to the vehicle,) making their way vigorously into the Fort. Its drawbridges, and covered ways, and embank- ments and gates, however useless against an enemy, forming formidable obstacles to the un- lucky driver who happens to have a spirited horse. Merchants, military and commissariat officers, and those employed by the local Government, keep perpetually rolling in from nme to eleven in the morning, in the whitest possible habili- ments — white pantaloons, wliite waistcoat, and white jacket, surmounted but too frequently by as white a face, out of which the heat and the musquitoes have sucked every trace of colour and of blood. Towards evening again, between three and six, the same stream makes its way, through the only two gates available for the purpose, back to the suburbs, the grooms run- ning at the horses' heads, or flying behind the buggies and dog-carts in the same wild style as in the morning. A few ride from the Fort in the evening, but this exercise is generally re- THE LIBRARY. 47 served for a later liour, when a large piece of unoccupied ground south of the Fort, raid by the sea shore, called the Gralle Face, is crowded by carriages and equestrians, some seeking the cool breeze from the sea, others exhibiting their horses and new hveries, and others their fine dresses and habits, just as on the Strand in Calcutta — the only difference of importance being that whilst a carriage with two horses is the exception in Colombo, it is the rule in the City of Palaces, where a far larger number of barouches and chariots make their appearance than of any other description of vehicle. The library is the principal resort in the daytime for those in the Fort who have leisure or desii'e to read the periodicals. An ad- mirable institution it is, well supplied with the current and standard literature of England, and containing many valuable classical and foreign works of travels. The principal news- papers and periodicals of England and the Presidencies are to be found on its tables, and although the character of the literature monthly added to its shelves, is principally popular or light, there are but few valuable works pub- lished in England respecting the East, which do not find their way into it. To the ex- patriated Briton there can be no greater plea- 48 " THE DRY CANAL/' sure than to be able to visit, when he pleases, an institution in which he finds himself sur- rounded by the old familiar magazines and reviews, and newspapers, from which he daily received instruction or amusement when at home — yes, at home — for, let liim go where he will, home means, not his dweUing-place or temporary residence, but the country he has left, and to which he hopes some day to return. The trees with wliich the Dutch bordered the roads and streets in the Fort, form an agreeable contrast to the glistening white and red-tiled houses, and an agreeable shade to the pedestrian who makes his way im^der so tropical a sun as that of Colombo, from one part of the curious old fortification to another. These trees, however, are fast disappearing under the innovating reformations of John Bull, and he does not see the propriety of planting new ones as fast as the old are removed. In fact, he does not consider them business-like enough, and hence his aversion to what is merely in- tended to adorn and to gratify. A canal, of which no one knows the use apparently, and which is so seldom filled with water that it might be correctly styled "the dry canal," divides the barracks and parade- ground from the business portion of the Fort, DRESS OF THE MILITARY. 49 and as the visitor looks across it, lie may see numbers of sturdy warriors, doomed, perhaps for their sins in a former birth, a native would say, to dress themselves daily in heavy red cloth coats, as unfitted for wear in such a climate as the constitution of the wearers for exposure to such a sun — some leaning over the railing of their verandah to watch and remark upon the native idlers below, others lying pas- sively on mats, engaged in the meditative process of smoking, but all listless and quiet, as if unable or unwilhng to exert themselves in any wa}^ in such an atmosphere. The cinnamon gardens in the vicinity of Colombo, form one of its chief attractions, both to the occasional visitor and to the resi- dent. My buggy has been left at the library — we will drive to them. The horse -keeper is dozing as he sits on his heels right in front of the horse's head, doubtless under the convic- tion that it will be impossible for the vehicle to go on very far without awakening liim. A word or two recalls him to himself, although he is not always so easily awoke, and we are off. Government house is left on om' right — a building of little pretension — ^too low to be grand, and too Dutch-like, in its broad massive VOL. I. D 50 ENTEANCE TO THE FORT. expansion on either side, to be mistaken for tlie erection of any other people. The banks — for there were two in those days of coffee- planting and enterprize, although only one remains — are on our left ; one of them a fine three-storied building, well-built, and remark- able amidst the architectural poverty around. The post-office we pass rapidly on our right, and find ourselves between two avenues of trees leading down to the gate of the Fort. Here we plunge into danger and gloom under a dark tortuous archway, where any enemy might be easily arrested by half a score of brave determined fellows, if the said enemy would be but polite enough to make his way into the fort that way, and leave untried the far easier road over the battlements. Emerg- ing from this subterranean defile, — invented, some say, by a coach-builder, who had become by accident Governor of Colombo, when the Fort was being built — emerging from it, with- out having taken off the wheel at the sharp angle in the midst of the Tartarean passage, or dislocated the hood against the envious pro- jecting buttress a httle further on, we find ourselves on a narrow level road skirted by what ought to be a ditch I believe, but is a THE GALLE "FACE." 51 green level plot of grass, leading down to a draw-bridge outside another gateway, at which a second sharp angle invites buggies, palanquin- carriages, and dog-carts to destruction. The sea is before us — a narrow strand only broad enough for a road, separates the frowning walls and muddy ditch of the Fort from the glorious ocean beyond. On our right the surf is dashing against the huge rocks incessantly, and then scattering it in showers of spray over the ramparts, whilst before us, in all its magnificent grandeur and sublime vastness, stretches the placid bosom of the deep, meet- ing, in a distinct line beyond, the overarching blue. We are now approaching the Gralle Face — the favoured haunt of the beauties and beaux of Colombo, when the sun is taking his de- parture for the day, and precipitating himself into the ocean. Not a cloud obscures the grand luminary at some seasons of the year, whilst he sinks away to the horizon, now touching the water with his reddened disc, anon cloven in two by the clear line that divides earth and sky, and scattering glorious rays lavishly over the ocean and the heavens until the whole western welkin shines with a D 2 52 AN EVENING ON blood-red glow, wliich, reflected on tlie surface of the water, is beautiful to behold. " The sun is djdng like a cloven king In his own blood ; the while the distant moon, Like a pale prophetess, whom he has wronged, Leans, eager forward, with most hungrj' eyes, Watching him bleed to death, and, as he faints, She brightens and dilates ; revenge complete, She walks in lonely triumph thro' the night." It is only in the tropics that such a scene as the poet pictures here can be seen in aU its vivid reahty, although of course it may be im- agined, in the more cloudy north. But leaving the contemplation of the gran- deur and magnificence of nature, let us turn our attention to the scene which humanity displays on this strip of green that fringes the lake on one side, and the ocean on the other. It is a fine evening, the day has been mtensely hot, and all Colombo is on the " Face." By the sea-shore roll quietly lines of carriages of all kinds, drawn by horses as various looking. Some of the vehicles one might almost fancy had left England when Charles the Second reigned, and carriages were becoming for the first time extensively used, so antiquated and dilapidated do they appear to be, whilst the poor horses, labouring along, find it useless to attempt anything more than a solemn walk THE GALLE "FACE." 53 with them. Others are of the newest cut, and that which is most unsuited to the climate, whilst their occupants seem uneasy if their horses have a moment's breathing-time. I have known a young man, ambitious and ec- centric, who dishked being only like other people, and who imported in consequence a London cab into Colombo, with front board, C springs, and tiger's stand complete, cooped up in which, and protected by it from every breath of air, he perspired and smiled amaz- ingly, whilst the light Arab horse to which it was attached, with difficulty tugged it forwards. The equestrians occup}' the tm-f, and if the carriages be outre-looking and absurd, every one must admire the horses and their riders that figure on the " Face." The elegant Arab is in his native element when he has a firm-handed, hght rider on his back. The fat pursy Colonel of sixty, whose huge dimensions no other uniform but his own would encase, does not look either picturesque or interesting, mounted on a shghtly-built graceful Arab of thirteen hands high, but he is an exception. The majority of the cavaliers are young men and maidens, and, as they sweep over the turf in animated converse or 54 HORSEMANSHIP. excited enmlation, none can deny that the scene is one of striking beauty and great at- tractiveness. The fine forms of the horses, exhibited to perfection in the bonnding canter or more severe gallop — the Hght airy figures of the female equestrians, bending gracefully over the saddle-bow as they manage their steeds or converse with their companions — the athletic figures of the young mihtary ofl&cers, who love to display at once their skill in horse- manship and their red coats — altogether form a scene of a new and exciting character, in wliich the various colours of the horses, the hues of the flowing riding-habits, the black hats and coats of the civil, and the red jackets of the mihtary, horsemen, all combine and con- trast elegantly with each other, and with the green turf beneath. It is doubtful whether even the drawing-rooms of the private houses or the ball-rooms of pubhc assemblies, are more frequently the bu'th-place of love between youtliful members of Colombo society, than the Galle Face. Certain it is that many choose the lonely ride and the confidential companionship which it engenders, for the disclosure of afiection and the making of what is so vulgarly called "a proposal." Nor would THE CINNAMON GARDENS. 00 it be easy perhaps to find a better opportunity for such a purpose than when the warm blood has been set rapidly in motion by the most agreeable of all forms of exercise. A smart trot through Colpetty — a suburb of Colombo, extending to the south beyond the " Face," and almost exclusively occupied by the English — brings us to the entrance into the cinnamon gardens. Every cultivated spot of ground in Ceylon is called a garden, and therefore in the cinnamon gardens, the visitor will be much disappointed if he expects to see neat walks, trimly laid out, or artificial arrange- ments intended to heighten or improve the efiects of nature. There is nothing of all this here, and yet gardens they undoubtedly are, in the noblest and truest sense of the term. The well-kept road afibrds us an excellent view of them on either side. The whole place re- sembles a wilderness of laurel bushes growing out of masses of snow or salt. The fine sand which forms the external coating of the soil is almost purely white, and the bushes thrive in it luxuriantly. They grow in irregular tufts, their perennial green of all hues, varying from the faintest yellow to the most sombre brown, contrasting pleasantly with the ghmpses of 56 DRIVE THROUGH white sand beneath, which the visitor occa- sionally gets, as he rides or drives along. No- thing can be more dehcate in hue than the first tender leaves of the cinnamon bush, as they shoot forth variously from its branches — half-opening, half-curling up, as if afraid to trust themselves to the broad, garish Hght of day. Their flavour too is a faint, pleasant, aromatic one, that tempts the early wanderer to pluck them occasionally as he brushes past, and, whilst the dew is rising in vapour from the leaves, caught up by the morning sun, it carries with it a deHghtftd perfume of the spicy shrub, which makes the air pecuHarly pleasant. On horseback, or in a buggy, the visitor's eye sweeps unimpeded over the wide extent of the tops of the bushes, which cluster thickly on the ground, here and there a solitary tree ar- resting his attention, and looking as if it were sorry to have left the agreeable companionship below. In the very centre of the plantation, a noble knot of lofty trees, judiciously planted, afford an agreeable shade, and make the pedes- trian sigh for a bench on which to enjoy the scenery and the refreshing air, It is only in the morning, as I have said, that the cinnamon bush affords a perfume, just THE CINIS^AMON GARDENS. 0/ when the dew is being evaporated from the young leaves, — at all other times, a strong imagination may conjure up a " spicy breeze," but it is entirely of the character of a " base- less fabric of a vision ;" no such breeze blows, no such odour is wafted over sea or land — " the only thing that can ordinarily be smelt about them," as my uncle, old-bachelor like, somewhat cynically observed, " being the rotten leaves, which," he added, " have very much the same perfume in all countries." There certainl}^ are few places in which a ride is more agreeable, or perhaps more beneficial, than in these gardens, and accordingly on every fine evening, that is, on nineteen evenings out of every twenty, they are visited by numbers who have become weary of the constant unchanging round on the Galle Face, and who desire rather to obtain amusement and enjoyment for themselves, than to afibrd them to others. The morning how- ever is the proper time to visit these gardens — just when the rays of the sun are struggling with the few light misty clouds that impede their progress, just when the dew is beginning to forsake the leaves, and the birds, wakinar from their night's sleep, are replacing the hoarse murmur of insect life by their own D 3 Ob PREPARATION OF CINNAMON. sweet cliirping and songs — tlien it is that the visitor, whether on foot or on horseback, may truly enjoy the gardens, and then it is of course that they are most deserted. The preparation of the spice from the bush is a very simple operation. Sticks, as straight as possible, tliree or four feet long, are cut from the bushes in large numbers, the thickest, not much grosser than one's thumb, the thinnest not so small as one's little finger. These sticks are held by the operator in his left hand, resting lengthways on his fore-arm, whilst with a sharp knife, prepared for the pm-pose, he cuts the bark down the entire length of the stick, and then peels it ofiP, en- deavouring to retain the pieces of as great a length and breadth as possible. A slip of the knife would of course bury it at once in the hand or arm, but practice makes them quite jDerfect in the matter, and they seldom injure themselves. To the visitor who sees the stick pressing into the soft flesh of the arm, or almost imbedded in the muscle of the bare thigh, whilst the knife is brought rapidly along, making a deep incision, the labour appears a higlily dangerous one, nor can a spectator witness it at first without a shud- LIFE IX COLOMBO. 59 der ; but to the operators themselves the fear of the novice is merely a subject of amusement — they see no danger in it, and know that carelessness alone can turn off the edge of the keen knife, even at the hardest knot. The strips of bark, so peeled off, are then thoroughly dried in the sun, rolled up into thin cyHnders, the smaller being placed witliin the larger, and packed for exportation. There was much in my Hfe in Colombo that I enjoyed with a keen relish. True the heat and musquitoes were dreadful, and never was there a greater martyr to the latter than I was. From the moment of my arrival almost, they had evidently marked me as their own, wliilst the heat was increased by my constant desire for exertion of some kind. But if the middle of the day was all but unbearable, the morn- ings and evenings were dehghtfiil; and in coursing tlnrough the cinnamon gardens or boating on the Colombo lake, I found both employment and exercise of the most agree- able kind. I did not thmk much of the Go- vernor's dinners, stiff, formal, and unenjoyable as they were, and even a ball at Government House did not appear to me to be the acme of feUcity, but even these were interesting be- 60 ECCENTRIC OLD BACHELOR. cause they were novel, and their very novelty made up for their duhiess. The coffee-estate, wliich I had left England to manage, was ah'eady planted, and in bear- ing it is true, and there were all the hopes and fears of a new and untried life yet to be en- tered upon and to be encountered; but these considerations did not trouble me much. There was something piquant in the very idea of life in the jungle which made me wish to be there as soon- as possible. My uncle's former partner, whose place I sup- plied, was dead, and a Portuguese servant, a confidential man, was at present acting as superintendent. He was thoroughly ac- quainted with coffee-planting practically, and I theoretically, so that I had no doubt we should form between us an admirable estate. In the mean time I learned Singhalese and Anglo-Ceylon customs in Colombo, whilst re- siding with my relative. He was a kind though eccentric old bachelor, who had lived for fifteen years in the island, and had a profound con- tempt lor everything but commerce and coffee- planting, and for every one except those en- gaged in them. On a native holiday, when there was no AN OPPRESSIVE MORNIXG. 61 business doing in the Fort, he accompanied me to the house of a clergyman, to whom I had recently been introduced, and who had in- vited us to visit a Budhist temple at the opposite extremity of the lake, by the side of which his house was built. We started very early. Even the morning was oppressively hot, w^hilst a mist, rising from the ground just preparatory to the sun's appearance, rendered the air hea\'ier and more oppressive than it would otherwise have been. We had a journey of several miles to accomphsh in this atmo- sphere, cooped up in a close palanquin-carriage. Mr. Padre, our host, was a pious man, an exception to the general rule in India ; and as morning prayers were but just beginning on our arrival, we joined the family. I have said that the ground without was steaming ; vapours were endeavouring to rise through the loaded air, but ineffectually, for there were other va- pours above — not fogs, such as London dehghts in, but invisible steam, not to be seen, but to be most indubitably felt. The atmosphere within the house was httle more tolerable ; and as I took my seat I felt two streams com'sing down upon either side of my forehead, which it was useless to interrupt by occasional mopping up. 62 PERSECUTION BY Not a single musquito had remained out of doors on this particular morning. I was a perfect mai-tyr to them. They had been swarming at home when we left ; but they were swarming near the lake in still greater abundance. I had scarcely taken my seat to listen with what devotion such an atmosphere and such circumstances would allow, when I felt that my old enemies were upon me. At the knees my pantaloons were of course drawn more tightly than elsewhere, and, as I never could endure drawers in a climate where aU dress was superfluous, the larger animals of the musquito kind invariably found out this weak point, and perched upon my knee — insinu- atingly inserted their probosces, as if that knee were their own — and then commenced their depredations. I became painftdly conscious in a moment that they were at work, and, look- ing down, distinguished two monsters aheady bloated with excessive sucking. I put my hand out quietly, as if intending notliing par- ticular, and allowed it gently to descend upon the smarting, itcliing knee; but they were gone ; the rascals had been too quick for me. I rubbed the wounded member a little, and then placed the other knee upon it, for the THE MUSQUITOES. 63 pressure was agreeable. Amidst the sonorous reading of tlie Scriptures there was a constant buz, buz, buz from my bloodthirsty enemies around my ears, longing for a bite. By skilfal evolutions of the head and hand I contrived to keep them from settling. The pmikah was pulled but lazily, and it would not have done to have shouted out under such circumstances. I directed many an agonized glance at the wretch who was puUing it, but he heeded them not, for he was dozing; his head had sunk upon his breast, and his closed eyes showed that he was utterly oblivious of my woes, and likely to remain so ; whilst his hand moved mechanically backwards and forwards, lazily, heavily, and uncertainly. In the mean time a smart of more than ordinary poignancy, caused by some monster musquito I suppose, made me almost jump from my chair. I forgot where I was for an instant, and brought down my hand with terrific force upon my leg, with force enough to have killed a thousand of the in- sects had they been collected there ; but the stai't had warned the poacher away, and he was quietly performing gyrations round my chair, waiting for the next convenient oppor- tunity. I felt ashamed of myself; all eyes 64 PERSECUTION BY were upon me for an instant; my uncle was grave ; and it was quite evident that Mr. Padre's family, consisting of Mrs. Padre and two Misses Padre, looked upon me already as a dissipated character. But, alas ! these were but the beginnings of sorrows. I was seated upon a cane chair, and through "the inter- stices between the intersections" {vide Johnson's definition of network), these insatiable blood- suckers made their way to another portion of my frame, where the pantaloons were equally tight, and v/here it was impossible for me to get at them. The loud report which my hand had caused in coming down with such force upon my thigh had roused my friend the punkah-puller. I saw a malicious grin upon liis countenance, as he fixed his eyes on me and pulled harder and more regularly. The agitation of the air caused by his vigorous ex- ertions reheved me from the enemies who had been swarming round my head ; but, alas ! they had only made their way under the chair, where the influence of the punkah was not to be felt. I could sit at ease no lonarer. It was only by constantly changing my posture that I could detach those who had attacked me from beneath ; and what with the pain and the THE MUSQUITOES. 65 endeavour to prevent fresh assaults, I literally writhed in a species of perpetual motion. It was impossible for mortal man to endure it long. That interminable chapter would ap- parently never be done ; and seeing a chair with a horse-hair seat in my vicinity — (the cane-bottoms are generally preferred for cool- ness) — I at length mustered up courage to rise, and convey my person to the safer piece of furniture, on which I was at all events secure from such insidious attacks from beneath. Another general stare was the result of this fresh move on my part, and I felt as if I should like very much to be anywhere but where I was. Mauvaise honte was my pre- vaihng folly; and I blushed up to my ears first, and then down again to my toes. Punkah- puller was grinning more indecently than ever, almost audibly, in fact, and I felt as if I could with pleasure have vented my accumulated rage and shame and pain upon him. I thought he saw that in my face, for he turned away his eyes when mine met his, and hid his dark features between his knees again. The read- ing proceeded as before — the temporary inter- ruption caused by my sudden move was at an end — and I now ventured to turn my atten- 66 PERSECUTION BY tion to tlie cliair I had left. From where I sat, at a short distance from it, I conld dis- tinctly see numerous musquitoes quickly and regularly revoMng round the space enclosed by the feet of the chair beneath, evidently lookhig for the same consolation which some of their brethren had abeady received at the ex- pense of my ease and comfort. I chuckled with satisfaction as I thought that they were outwitted now at all events, but was instanta- neously recalled to a consideration of my own position by an acute sting upon the exposed knee, and another upon the most prominent portion of the calf of my leg. These assaults had been simultaneous, and all the injury was done before my attention had been called to them. But why linger upon so ticklish and painful a subject? Those who have never experienced the ferocious assaults of an army of musquitoes can have no sympathy with me ,* those who have, need but few words to recall the image to then* mind — an imagq which, — " To those who know it not, no words can paint, Whilst those who know it, know all Mords are faint." The reading of that chapter, which I had long looked upon as interminable, and which I still think must have been the longest in the THE MUSQUITOES. 67 Bible, was at length fmislied, and we knelt. Any change, I thought, must have been for the better ; but I was mistaken. My friend, the punkah-puller, had relapsed into somnolency, and the breeze caused by his exertions was of the most gentle and harmless description possible. I need scarcely say that, as I knelt, my jacket, exactly of the fashion of an Enghsh school-boy's, only differing m the material, which was white long-cloth, did not defend me from the assaults of the musquitoes, as a pale- tot, a frock-coat, nay, even a dress-coat, to some extent, would have done. It was impossible not to become speedily and painfully sensible of this fact, and, whatever my feelings of de- votion, the pain to which I was subjected in consequence of the want of any posterior de- fence, was quite sufficient to have roused a saint from his propriety. To attend to the prayers, under such circumstances, was impossible. One of the Misses Padre was kneeling near me — the mother was fortunately at the opposite side of the study table — and my back was tm^ned towards the reverend gentleman liimself. I could not shy a book at the punkah-puller's head, to rouse him to greater exertions. I could not openly rise from my knees and seat 68 PERSECUTION BY myself. I thoug-lit of quietly passing my hand- kerchief round, so as to form a kind of kilt worn on the wrong side, but I knew Mr. Padre must see such a manoeuvre, and I knew that these sallow-faced, liver-diseased, old Anglo-Indians never give a young man credit for being so un- mercifully persecuted as he sometimes is. He would ascribe it all to a species of irreverent larking, to which I was as httle disposed as he was. The evil was every moment becoming more unendm-able. I felt that a crisis was at hand, that something must be done ; and at the risk of losing the esteem of a highly estim- able and worthy family for ever, I did at length muster courage to insinuate my handkerchief as well as I could into the desired position ; but this could not be done without noise, and a pause in the worthy clergyman's reading con- vinced me that he was watching my proceed- ings. I did not venture to turn my head — the Miss Padre beside me was evidently disturbed in her devotions by my uneasiness — and a sense of these accumulated and unmerited wrongs and sufferings tlirew me into a heat, to which, what I endured, when the thermometer was at 98° in the shade, was a trifle. Throughout breakfast I was painfully con- THE MUSQUITOES. 69 scions of the fact tliat every member of the family regarded me as a reprobate, and although I did all I could to remove the impression, I saw plainly that it was fixed in the minds of Mr. and Mrs. Padre. The young ladies were more just, and, forsaking the parents, I did my best to ingratiate myself with the daughters. Whilst the preparations for departure to the Budhist temple, by boat, were being made, my uncle foimd an opportunity of addressing me privately. " I thought you had learned a little more reverence for religion in college," said he, " than to create such a disturbance at prayer-time." The struggling grin which played round his mouth as he spoke, proved to me that he was thoroughly aware both of the extent of my persecution and of its cause. " There never was a man so beset by those plagues, the musquitoes, as I am," I replied. "I endured enough this morning, both at prayers and at breakfast, to weary out the most imperturbable patience." " They bite you through your pantaloons, then?" said he. " They bite me through everything, but my boots," said I. " A florid complexion," he answered, grin- 70 VISIT TO A ning ; " never knew a florid complexion tliat wasn't a martyr to them." " Very satisfactory to know tliat, truly," I replied. " Oil, but you'll get rid of them on the coffee estate. They don't go up so high — only that the leeches are worse there, a thousand times worse there than the musquitoes here." " A delightful country," I sighed, as I rubbed my knee, still smarting with the morning's infliction. " As fine a country as there is under heaven, Sii'," was his reply ; " and if people will only wear drawers and leech-gaiters, they need not fear either the musquitoes or leeches much." Mr. Padre joined us at the moment, and I endeavoured to give liim some idea of my sufferings, but evidently without success. We were soon seated in our host's boat, under a comfortable awning, and making our way slowly but pleasantly over the lake, as it glistened brightly in the sun's rays. The cool breeze that played over the surface of the water fanned our faces agreeably, and made the voy- age enjoyable. Behind us was the sloping hill on which stood the house we had just left, its white walls and pillars contrasting well with the green lawn that swept down to the edge BUDHIST TEMPLE, 71 of the lake, and with green Venetians that guarded the windows. We were rowed by four boatmen belonging to Mr. Padi-e's estab- Hshment, tastefully dressed in his livery of white and blue, and by no means exerting themselves to any dangerous degree to urge the boat too rapidly along. The winding, well- wooded shores of the lake stretched away from us on either side, more resembling those of a river in their form than the extremities of an extensive sheet of water — its broad expanse on the northern side, being shut out from view by the sinuous Hue of forest. Far away, at the extremity of the water, could be seen the temple to which we were bound, agreeably perched upon the summit of a hill, with its tapering spire pointing heavenwards, whilst behind it rose another, and a loftier liill, that seemed the outer barrier of the extensive valley occupied by the lake and forest. An hour and a-half's rowing brought us to the landing place, where a somewhat steep path ascended to the temple and its dagobah. I escorted the elder Miss Padre, a demure, im- perturbable young lady, very white, and very thoughtful — I doubt if she had ever, in the course of her hfe, acted once from impulse, even when an infant, so staid and sober, and me- 72 DESCRIPTION OV thoclic, and calculating were her words and her actions. She was a valuable companion, how- ever, in the present instance, for she explained' much that would have been other^vise incom- prehensible to me. " The Budhist temples consist of two parts," said she, as we ascended ; "a wiliare, in which the priests live, and where they read the sacred books to the people, and a dagobah, or monu- mental, bell-sha23ed erection, covering some relics, supposed by them to be hoty." " Then it is the dagobah, of which I see the spire overtopping the trees yonder," I ob- served " It is," said she. " And the other part, the w " " Wihare" she suggested. " Wihare," said I, ''is a kind of monastery.", " Something resembling a monastery and a chapel, amongst the Roman Cathohcs. One part of it is devoted to a large image of Grotama Budha, which the people worship, and another to the residence of the priests." " They lead a quiet, peaceful, happy kind of hfe, I suppose," said I ; " w4th little to do, save to consume the food the people give them." " They are not wholly dependent on alms ;" A BUDHIST TEMPLE. 73 she explained ; " there are lands attached to the temple, on which they principally subsist. My papa knows the chief priest of this temple very well ; and has often discussions with him ; and I have heard pa say, that he beheves the priests for the most part lead a moral, useful kind of life." '* How useful ?" I asked. " In teaching the young," was the reply. By this time we had reached a square en- closure surrounded by low cottages, on one side of which the large massive temple rose, — its stuccoed walls shining like white marble, and making the thatched cottage-looking buildings in its vicinity, appear all the more mean and paltry. Mr. Padre and his younger daughter, a lively, interesting young lady, to whose cheek 'the exercise had lent a blush that made her look pretty, was close behind us ; whilst, as we looked down the path, we saw my uncle and Mrs. Padre labouring along, as well as their size and weight would admit of, for neither of them was of small dimensions. A yellow-robed priest, with shaven crown, and the usual fan in his hand, soon joined our party, and informed Mr. Padre, that the chief of the temple was absent — offering very politely VOL. I. E 74 BUDHIST PRIEST. to escort us round the building himself. He spoke in Singhalese, which I had been study- ing zealously ever since my arrival, and in which I had now made some proficiency ; and from a dark-skinned specimen of humanity, with his left arm and shoulder bare, and with- out shoes or stockings, shirt, coat, waistcoat, or pantaloons, nothing in fact, but a vast mass of yellow cloth wrapped round his body in volu- minous folds, and stretching from his feet to his right shoulder — from such a figure om* European prejudices would not have expected the perfect courtesy and good breeding, the gentlemanly suavity and elegance, with which he offered his services. I was surprised and pleased ; and the film of prejudice through which, up to this moment, I had regarded the natives, was now torn from my eyes. Con- ventionalism is the bane of modern society. So little that is natural is left us, so Kttle, in- deed, that is not wholly and altogether arti- ficial and unnatural, that even our impressions and feelings, our thoughts and convictions are too often not our owm, but those of the society with which we mix, of the limited circle in which we move. Our minds, like our bodies, are so covered with tight trappings, swathing EDUCATION OF YOUTH. 75 bandages and drapery, that the form and feeling within are almost lost, or at all events, effectu- ally concealed. Custom and society daily make new inroads into our individuality until little or nothing is left us that is our own ; but, as in the diamond, the' plain form of nature is exchanged for the angularities and caprices of the lapidary — the twinking and sparkling, per- haps, increased, but the gem certainly reduced in size, and the inward light torn fi'om its dwelling, and thrown as much as possible upon the exterior, so it is with us — so is our in- dividuality destroyed. I could not help making a reflection of this kind as I followed our swarthy friend, from the square, well-shaded court-yard in which we stood when he ap- proached us, to the adjacent temple. We passed a few youths seated on the ground nasally intoning a portion of their sacred books under the direction of a priest, and it was an interesting sight to see how little impression the approach of om- party made upon the youth- ful assembly. Six Europeans, in what to them must have appeared to be holiday or masquerade attire, could not have been a common spectacle for them, yet so well-trained were they, or so apathetic, that there was no lifting of the head, E 2 76 IMAGE OF GOTAMA. no stoppage of the recitation. The priest in charge of the httle body did not once take his eyes from the page as we passed, whilst the youngsters cast but furtive glances now and then, as the ladies' dresses rustled together, or as we spoke. So different i-s the East from the West ; so complete the contrast between the soft, apathetic, indifierent Asiatic, and the rough, energetic, curious, and eager European ! The massive walls of the temple reminded me of the Dutch buildings in the Eort of Colombo ; in their thickness and solidity, all the more striking from the flimsy, temporary cha- racter of the wood and leaf cottages of the priests' dwellings without. Advancing into the gloomy interior, it was some time before the eye could distinguish objects, so abrupt had been the transition from the bright glare with- out to the comparative darkness within. At length the large outhne of a recumbent figure became clearly perceptible in the surrounding gloom — a gigantic image of Gotama Budha, the man-god of Budhism, reclining on his right side, with his right hand under his head. There was little or nothing in the sculpture of the figm-e to admire, for all was g aring and exag- gerated, but its faults were hidden by the im- HIS NUMEKOUS WORSHIPPERS. 77 perfect light ; the great fact which impressed itself on my mind, and doubtless which impresses itself powerfully on the minds of thousands of worshippers, being, that there, within two yards of us, was the image of a man worshipped by more votaries than any other man or god, real or pretended, that the world has ever seen or heard of ! That was the impression that sunk deep into my mind, as I gazed, almost awe- struck with the thought, at the huge uncouth figure. Between three and four hundred mil- lions of the human race are said to be believers in that wonderful being, and as many have been so for ages — believers, not in his good- ness, in his hoHness, in his wonder-working power merely, but behevers in him as above all gods and men ; " the most exalted in the uni- verse ; the chief of the universe ; the most excellent in the universe," at whose conception all the worlds trembled, a preternatural light shining in each, the blind from birth received the power to see, the deaf heard the joyful noise, the dumb burst forth into song, the lame danced, the crooked became straight, those in confinement were released from their bonds,*and the fires of all the hells became extinguished ;* * Hardy's " Manual of Budhism," p. 143. 78 PROGRESS OF BUDHISM, and at whose birtli, men, angels, and gods equally confessed their inferiority and his su- premacy. The history of the world affords no page more extraordinary than that which records the rise and progress of Budhism ; appearing to us in these material, matter-of- fact days all romance and falsehood, but the living fact exists before our very eyes, and although the successive steps by which it reached its present greatness may be hidden from us, unlilvc the progress of Mohamme- danism, for instance, yet its widespread diffu- sion from Ceylon to China, from Malacca to the Caspian Sea, proves that it too has strided over the world in grandeur, and its traditions assure us, not with bloody malignity and violence, but mildly, peacefully, and harmlessly. Considerations such as these invest a Budhist temple with a mystery and a significance that cannot but make it interesting to the cultivated observer. The altar on which the faithful make their simple offerings of flowers stood at a little dis- tance from the image, together with a copper iDasin, in which their donations of money are received. The walls were entirely covered with paintings, in the stiff hard style of the Egyp- ALLEGORICAL PAINTINGS. 79 tians and Assyrians, althoug-li with somewhat greater correctness of outhne, representing, as the priest informed us, incidents in the life of Grotama, either when on earth as Budha, or in some former state of existence. On the outer wall in a sort of passage that surrounded the inner and sacred apartment were various simi- larly pictured scenes, intended, according to Miss Padre, who seemed to know all about them, as allegorical representations of the hap- piness of the blest, the advantages wliich accrue from embracing the faith of Grotama, and the misery of the damned. Some of these allego- rical representations, if such they really were, were not of a kind that a European pubhc would tolerate, but Miss Padre seemed quite innocent of the fact, and it certainly was not for me to hint it. I contented myself with looking at them, as they were described, won- dering, at the same time, what the young lady's ideas of indecent pictures might be if she con- sidered these decent — not that I ever asked such a question, or suggested a doubt on the subject — indeed I do not suppose that so im- perturbable a soul as hers would have been at all disconcerted at the inquiry, for, I fancy, she 80 THE DAGOBAH. never supposed it possible that indecent figures could be drawn. From the wihare we directed our steps to the dagohah, a large rounded mass of masoniy terminating in a spiral minaret, that ghstened brightly in the sun's rays. It was built, my companion informed me, in accordance with Budhistic custom, over some relies esteemed holy — generally over the bones of a saint. There was little about it, save its gigantic size and strange form, to arrest attention, and as I saw much finer samples of the same kind of building subsequently I shall not stop to de- scribe it particularly. Our inspection of this temple finished, we descended to the beach, where the servants had prepared a luncheon for us under a banian-tree. The repast, which was an agreeable one, con- eluded, we returned, as we had come, to Mr. Padre's house, delighted with our excursion. Ji PREPARATION FOR BUSINESS. 81 CHAPTEE III. JOURNEY TO KANDY. " Our haste from hence is of so quick condition, That it prefers itself, and leaves unquestioned Matters of needful value." — Measure for Measure, act i., sc. 1. At length it became necessary to tliink of joining the estate of which I was aheady part- proprietor, and of which I intended, as soon as possible, to take the entire management into my own hands. My collegiate studies in England, it is true, did not appear to be the best possible preparation for such a new and untried mode of life, but I was mistaken. There was not so much difference after all between a wine- party in college, and a planter's party in the jungle. The former a Httle rougher, more boisterous and more boyish, the latter a little more intellectual often, and to me more in- teresting from the variety of character which it displayed. I was certainly as well prepared E 3 82 TIIE HOFERS. for cofFee-planting life as three-foui'tlis of those who had already embraced it, whilst, by my devotion to active physical exercise and to study, I was far better suited for it than men who had abandoned an apathetic Anglo-Indian existence in the large towns of the East, to engage in it. I had met, whilst in Colombo, an interesting couple, who, from the contrast which they exhibited with each other, powerfully arrested my attention — Mr. and Mrs. Hofer. Like myself, Mr. Hofer had abandoned an English home to embark his capital and his fortunes in coffee-planting, but whilst I had come to Ceylon to see what was to me the new world of the East as much as to make a fortune, he, on the other hand, had already seen it, was thoroughly disgusted with it, and had resolved to bury himself, as he expressed it, on a coffee- estate for ten years. He had been all over Europe, and had seen much of Asia and America abeady. I regarded him with an interest which I could not explain when I heard him discoursing, from personal know- ledge, of Broadway, New York, and of Chow- inghee, Calcutta. He seemed equally familiar with Trafalgar Square in London, the Place de THE HOFERS. 83 la Concord in Paris, and the Neuer Parade Platz of Vienna. His observations showed that he had gone through the world with his eyes open, and that he had made a good use of the opportunities he had had of studying man- kind, and it was therefore with delight I heard of his having purchased land not many miles from Euminacaddee, the nearest post town to our estate. I had a few opportunities of studying Hofer's character in Colombo, and many sub- sequently. A briUiant fancy, a luxm'iant ima- gination, acuteness of perception, warm but regulated benevolence, and an abiding sense of justice, had all been lavished upon him by nature or developed by cultivation, yet it ap- peared to me that the key- stone of the arch was wanting. The mind may be compared to the horse, the will to the rider. It avails nothing that we boast of the powers of our steed, of liis swiftness, of his endurance, of his sure-footed paces, if we cannot guide and con- trol him. The animal that runs aw^ay with his rider may travel over the most ground at the swiftest rate, but the slower-paced obeyer of the rein is still the more valuable of the two. And so of the mind. If the will cannot 84 CONTRASTED CHARACTERS. control and direct the other faculties, their luxuriant growth and power become sources of irregular enjoyment, but often too of incon- venience, and result in a want of force of character. He had spent some months in Ja- maica to learn the art of coffee-planting, and he had now arrived in Ceylon to turn his practical knowledge to account. I was interested so much, both in him and in his wife, that it was with extreme pleasure I accepted his offer to journey with them to Kandy. Mr. and Mrs. Hofer had been but four months married. Their wedding trip was the overland journey from England to Ceylon, and the freshness of the first months of matrimony between the truly loving had not as yet worn off. A more complete contrast between two beings, notwithstanding their fitness for each other, scarcely ever existed. She had never left England before, except to pay a flying visit to the Continent, one of those hurried roving excursions which disgust even the oldest traveller, and implant indehble dislike to the noblest countries and cities, in the breast of the youngest. Thus was it with the fair Emma Morley. She was hurried from place to place, from city to city, from novelty to ROAD TO KANDY. 85 novelty, until the absorbing "vvish of her heart was to return at once to her peaceful home in England again ; and when she did so return, nothing but the strong bond of love could have succeeded in once more dragging her from her beloved comitry. Hofer, then on his way from Jamaica to Ceylon, saw, and wooed, and won her. He, the cosmopolitan, to whom all countries were equally indifferent, and she, the thoroughly-English maiden, shrinking from all but English habits, alive to every English virtue, nm*tured from infancy in a love and admiration of every English characteristic, had come together to live in the wilderness, sur- rounded by rude semi-civiHzed mountaineers, whose dark skin is not more different from ours than are the constitution of their minds and the pecuharities of their habits ! The road from Colombo to Kandy leads, for half its length, over the even lowlands of the coast, exhibiting to the traveller on either side the usual aspects of tropical nature. Eice- fields deluged with water, and neatl}^ di^dded by thin httle mounds from each other, planta- tions of cocoa-nut and areca-nut trees with thin graceful stems and umbrella-like waving branches at the top — long strips of land in 86 ROAD TO KAXDY. cultivation here and there amidst these, loaded with various vegetables unknown to temperate regions, some protected partially from tlie sun by coverings, others wooing its fiery rays ; and above them all, the great luminary himself, small, of a white heat, fierce in his scorcliing vigour, and casting a glow over the whole sky, blue though it was, which rendered it almost impossible to turn the eye upward in any direction. Although the forms of the vegeta- tion and the aspect of the country were equally new, yet there was a monotony about this first day's journey, in consequence of the level character of the district, which we did not sub- sequently experience. Now and then a group of natives, naked generally to the waist, varie- gated the scene, their dark skins, and the bright colours of the handkerchiefs worn on their heads, or as girdles, being in vivid contrast to each other, whilst men, women, and cliildren, as they proceeded, seemed all equally at a loss for time to say all that they had to say, so rapid and incessant was their talking. We stopped for the night at a bungalow, half- way between Colombo and Kandy, beautifully situated in a valley, formed by a semicircular group of hills, amongst wliicli the road wound MOONLIGHT NIGHT. 87 on to the east in its uninterrupted course. As the sun sank, large, clear and unclouded in the west, the full moon rose with a splendour pecu- Harly her own in the clear air of the tropics, upon the east. I know not how to give an idea of the loveliness of that night, as we en- joyed it, walking in the verandah of the bunga- low, and bathing as it were in the flood of silver glory poui'ed down so profusely by the pale queen of night upon the earth ? Not even upon the ocean have I witnessed a splendour equal to that ! The stars tmnkled dimlj here and there, obscured by the more powerful beams of the moon, whilst the whole earth seemed lit up with intensely burnished silver mirrors, reflect- ing floods of hght in every direction. The dark shadows on the hill sides were rendered still darker by the soft glow which diffused itself equally upon all the salient points of the landscape. If one could choose, where all was lovehness, perhaps the palm trees presented the most strikingly new and bewitching aspect. Their long graceful leaves, wet with dew, shone with a mild radiance as the flood of light was poured down upon them, whilst, between their ever moving branches, the rays of the moon made their way timidly as it were to the earth. 88 NIGHT SOUNDS. where an exact impression of the graceful tracery above was pictured out upon the grass in black and silver, never at rest, but always lovely. All nature seemed to enjoy the glorious spectacle. — " Most glorious night," I involun- tarily exclaimed with the poet, " thou wert not sent for slumber." From the minutest insects in the air to the hugest denizens of the forest, all seemed equally impressed with the same idea, that it were treason to the majesty of nature not to enjoy such a scene. The air was filled at intervals with the various noises that a luxuriant tropical fauna alone can produce ; bellowing from the woods, the wild shriek or shrill cry of the monkeys minghng there with the trumpeting of the elephant ; croakings from the river and marshes ; loud buzzings from the trees and air ; whilst birds called to and an- swered each other with incessant rapidity : all intermingled and alternated with each other at intervals, between which a silence as of uni- versal awe or death, crept over the landscape — the nearer and sharper sounds ceased, the silent circle widened, and gradually the more distant reverberations ended, and then there was a per- fect calm for a time, holy, pure, and exciting in its peacefulness so different from the tumult which CONNUBIAL HAPPINESS. 89 preceded and succeeded it. The scene is stamped upon my mind still, and will probably never be effaced. And yet I have not mentioned tlie most exquisite of all the scenes of that bright evening ! It was love that lent its charm to the whole. I was the witness of the happiness of two noble specimens of our race, as they reflected love from each other's eyes, drinking in deep draughts of the intoxicating sentiment with every glance. It would have been a sin on such an evening not to be grateful and happy, and no shade of jealousy darkened my heart as I rejoiced with thera in that glorious prospect. I had never seen the lady otherwise than as the companion of her husband, and therefore I looked upon their love and relationship as a natural thing, which did not interfere with me, and which, if wise, I too could afar off, participate in, or, at all events, sympathize with. When I saw her face shining in the pale moonbeams, her spark- ling eyes and black hair, contrasting vividly with the pure whiteness of her brow, and of her neck, and whilst I felt her warm hand resting on my thinly covered arm, I looked upon her as I looked upon the landscape, as an object of loveliness, on wliich my eyes might feast, and which memory might treasure in my heart, but 90 CONVERSATION ON wMch nearer approach would probably but sully or disturb. As I saw her gaze directed towards the stars, and heard her sigh, saying, that she was sorry she had not studied astrology, yes, sigh in the very wantonness of happiness, and as I saw the clear intelUgent eye and brow of her husband turned towards her, whilst a good-humoured smile played around his hps, I felt that we require but a sensitive heart to enjoy the happiness of others, and that he must have a bad one who cannot see that happiness without enYj. " My husband smiles at the idea of astrology, do you not think there is more in that ' poetry of heaven,' " said she, turning to me, " than he is willing to admit ?" " You are too polite, I am sure, to say there is nothing in it, after such an appeal," said he, quickly ; " but, Emma, I am equally sure your own reason declares to you the folly and absurdity of the pretended science." " My reason, as it has been cultivated, may," was her reply, " but my heart, my dear Ernest, wishes it were otherwise, and often tells me that it is so." " The heart is an erring guide in matters of science," said he. ASTROLOGY. 91 "Why should it be so?" she asked. "Is there, then, an opposition between the two ? if so, God grant I may ever follow the dictates of the heart, and leave the reason, with its cold, selfish, calculating wisdom, behind me. The heart is everywhere the same, whilst reason differs everywhere. The heart prompted a thousand years ago as it prompts now ; reason, a thousand years ago, taught a hundred things which it laughs at now. I, at all events, will cherish the unchangeable." " Your German philosophy, my dear Emma," he m'ged, " has misled you. There is no oppo- sition between the two — the cultivated heart and cultivated reason say one and the same thing — at least, the more they are cultivated the more nearly they assimilate." "What do you think on the subject?" he added, turning to me. Thus directly appealed to, I could not avoid the discussion further, although I feared it might lead to dangerous ground. " I am inclined to agree with Mrs. Hofer's German philosophy, as you call it," said I, " that where the heart and the head differ, the former is to be preferred. The impulses of the heart, eminently subjective as they are, are 92 COXVEESATION OX more likely to be true than tlie reasonings, purely objective, for tlie most part, of the head. But both certainly require cultivation, and the due cultivation of the heart appears to me to be a far more difficult thing than that of the head. As to astrology, there is something fascinating and poetical in the supposition that our destinies are written in the everlasting firmament ; but is it not making ourselves of too much, and the stars of too little importance, to conceive such a thing possible ?" " Like my husband," Mrs. Hofer replied, " you are a sceptic, with reference to man's higher and nobler nature ; you have no belief in that inner world which shadows forth so truly the outer. Did I assert that the stars were there — there, in that glorious canopy," said she, disengaging her hand from my arm, and stopping to point to them, " merely that man might read his destiny in them, there would be truth in your objection — but no, I beheve they are there for other and infinitely hoher and higher purposes. Is it not, however, consistent with the divine economy of nature, that one thing should serve many ends, and do we not see a thousand examples of such on earth?" ASTROLOGY AND ASTRONOMY. 93 " There is much ingenuity, but little logic in your observation," repHed Hofer. " Astro- nomy reveals too much of the stars to permit astrology to be true, and if astrology be true, all our modern science is false." " And that same modern science," I observed, " I fear Mrs. Hofer will regard as destroying all the poetry of life." " Yes," she replied, " material science goes far to do so, but not mental. I fear it is too often forgotten, however, that astrology was once the universal belief of mankind, and is still believed in by a majority of the human race." " That, " said her husband, " cannot be allowed to be an argument in favour of its truth. A thousand bubbles float over the heads of mankind for centuries, are admired, examined, believed in, sung, and praised enthusiastically, and at last, burst to be seen no more;— -nay, men have fought, stranghng each other with death-grips, to seize such bubbles, and lo ! when they touch them, they dissolve into thin air, and leave not a wrack behind." " Well," said his fair partner, gaily, " the Budhists are astrologers ; I will learn the science of them, at all events, during my resi- dence in the jungle, and then I shall be better 94 ROAD TO KANDY — able to contest the point. In the meantime, although our hearts would prompt us to remain here all night, basking in this lovely moon- light, yet our heads tell us, if we are to journey early to-morrow, we had better retire. There is no opposition, you see, between them ; shall we obey both ?" " A truly feminine method of concluding the argument," said her husband, as they bid me adieu, leaving me to meditate a Httle longer in the moonlight. The road, from the bungalow at which we passed the night, to Kandy, lay through some of the wildest and noblest mountain scenes in the East. Indeed the difficulties in the way of its construction, presented by the nature of the country, were such that it has been justly styled the " Simplon of the East." We were amply repaid for the monotony of the previous day's travel, and as we got deeper and deeper amongst " the everlasting hills," our spirits became invigorated and our bodies refreshed, by the cooler air and more variegated land- scape. Such was the steepness of the way in some places, that we preferred leaving our carriage, and proceeding on foot, often gaining the brow of an eminence in this way, from ITS DIFFICULTIES. 95 wliicli an extensive view could be obtained on every side. From this eminence, the plains we had left became gradually more and more ap- parent, stretching far to the west, in an ever- widening prospect, whilst, before us, the rugged and confused mountain masses rose, more and more irregularly and with greater vastness and wildness. " There is more of the stern reality of nature here than one sees in Jamaica," said Hofer, " where cultivation, at least along the ordinary highways, is more extended and uni- versal than in Ceylon." Now and then we skirted the edge of a primeval forest that stretched far away amongst the hills and valleys, presenting a rich contrast, in its gorgeous green hvery, to the naked rocks and bleak mountain sides, with which it was often associated. In many places the moun- tain rose almost perpendicularly upon the left, wliilst on the right, from the edge of the road on which we stood, it descended, bleak, fearful, and precipitous, to the valley beneath ; not even a rail, nothing but a few scanty bushes, sown and nm'tm'ed by nature on the hill-side, inter- vening between the traveller and destruction. It is a grand sight to see the mountain tor- rents, in such situations, rushing impetuously 96 PASS OF KADUGANAVA. down tlie sides of the hills, foaming ou thci.' way as if chafed by the opposition of the rocks and the vegetation which impede their pro- gress. Eoaring here over a stony bed, there leaping indignantly from one crag to another, as if determined on snccess — at one time cooped up in a deep, narrow gorge hoarsely complain- ing, bnt still struggling onwards, — at another, spreading out into a wider reservoir, as if peace had been attained at last, and it were content. But, no, ever restless, ever changing, like the world of which it forms a part, it finds a vent somewhere, and resumes its brawling, strug- gling, character, until lost in the river or the ocean. What an illustration, I have often thought, of the headlong career of passion ? The pass of Kaduganava is one of the great engineering feats of the road. So rocky and precipitous were the mountains on either side, — so narrow, rugged, and uncompromising the deep dells between them — that it was only by continued blasting, a way could be torn out of the sides of the hills. Indeed, in one place, a complete tunnel was thus formed tlu'ough a mass of rock, that reminds one of the side of a gigantic elephant, and wliicli now stretches over the road, joining the almost perpendicular PASS OF KADUGANAVA. 97 Heights above, with the equally precipitous de- clivities below. " The nation that can make a road from Colombo to Kandy, through the Kaduganava pass," said an old Singhalese pro- verb, " wiR ever be the rulers of Ceylon." The road is made, and its makers are the rulers of the fair island, — " the pearl drop on the brow of India," as its people delight to call it, — but all that is contained in that little word " ever," can never, as long as time lasts, be fulfilled. Fearful is it to stand on the edge of the fairy- like road that creeps so modestly along the hill side, and look down into the awful chasm below. The tops of a few ])ushes present them- selves at a considerable depth, deeper down a few rocks, and the indistinctly- seen form of a torrent, making its way below — deeper still a dun, dark haze, impenetrable to the sight, in which all distinct vision is lost, but fi-om the depths of that vast chasm come up the con- fused sounds of the strife of elements waged there incessantly — water and rocks in never- ending conflict, battling with each other, the weaker ever eating into and wearing away the stronger in its persevering flow. One shudders while fancying the sensations that would accompany a fall into that deejD dell — VOL. I. F 98 COFFEE ESTATES. the lieadlong passing by the quivering tops of the bushes seen far beneath — ^the rapid gy- rations, as whii'ling downwards to destruction, rocks, trees, chasms, and smooth mountain sides would be passed — the bhnd plunging into the depths, beneath which the eye cannot pierce, and in which imagination is almost lost ; a fitting emblem of the grave which would assuredly be found at the bottom, wherever that may be, or if bottom there be to it at all. On the sides of this celebrated pass, as well as upon its summit, there are several valuable coffee estates, on one of which we were hos- pitably entertained during the heat of the day ; and as the drive thence to Kandy was short and easy, we prolonged our stay with its kind inmates far into the evening. Mr. Massey, the proprietor and superintendent of the estate at wliich we stopped, gave us a hearty welcome; and as the Hofers had met him and his wife in Colombo, the greeting between them was like that of old friends rather than of only casual acquaintances. Out of Europe Englishmen ap- pear to me to form friendships sooner than any other portion of mankind. Aware, probably, that they differ from every other class of the THE PAEAHAEA ESTATE. 99 human species in many notable respects, the}" who would frown at each other without knowing why in England, will cordially extend the hand, and welcome with a bright smde their com- patriots in the far East or West. So it was in the present instance. Hofer and Massey had little in common, except that they were coifee- planters ; yet their greeting was of the most cordial character. Mrs. Hofer and Mrs. Massey were still more dissimilar ; but they were both Englishwomen in Ceylon, and this appeared a sufficient reason for their intimacy and friend- ship. The bungalow of the Parahara estate, as Mr. Massey's was called, was well situated on the side of the liill, a deep mass of the primeval forest rising behind it, and the estate stretch- ing on each side and below, in a wide amphi- theatre. From the opposite hill, as we ap- proached, the effect was extremely picturesque ; and one coidd scarcely help thinking, on look- ing at it, that, with a suitable companion, any man alive to the beauties of nature might spend his life happily there, did not experience too probably cut short the reflection by asking whether happiness depended upon external cir- F 2 100 COFFEE ESTATE. cumstances in any great, or even more trivial, degree ? As we drove up to the verandah, three fair- haired children, their looks telling of northern lands and more bracing climates, were playing in it, watched and attended by as many native servants. One female and two males, at all events, we saw pajdng the usual attention of bonnes to their little charges, b}^ laughing and chatting in the corner, whilst " Misse Mary " was on the point of poking out Httle " Masse Henry's " eye with a pair of scissors she had picked up somewhere, in vainly essaying to clip his somewhat redundant locks. Our arrival created, of course, a general sensation, and a dispersion of the verandah group. The ayah, or native female servant (catcliing up " Httle Masse Henry " just as he was on the point of shrilly screaming forth his disapprobation of his sister's scissors' performance), went to inform her mistress of our arrival. The two well-bearded and moustached guardians of the other pledges gazed intently on the equipage, on the coachman, on the foreign mahathmas* on the servants that brought up the rear, whilst * The Singhalese saheh or Mr. J HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. 101 they talked incessantly to each other, the one stroking his fine black beard, the other vigor- ously engaged in scratching his head, and then examining his nails. Mrs. Massey soon made her appearance, and welcomed us. She was one of those women who at thirty contrive to look as if they were between forty and fifty, and then often retain precisely the same expression of countenance for tliirty years more. " I knew you would be here about this time," said she, " and I told WiUiam so ; but he would go to look after the new sowings : men, but particularly coffee-planters, are so obstinate." " Especially when there are new sowings to look after, I fancy," said Hofer, bowing. " 0, they are never without excuses, Mr. Hofer, as Mrs. Hofer will one day find," said our hostess, leading the lady off, and giving directions to the servants respecting our enter- tainment. Mr. Massey, a plain burly man of about fifty, shortly after made his appearance, in the orthodox plantation dress of a Ceylon cofiee- planter ; that is to say, with coarse canvas 102 JUNGLE DRESS, shoes, and leech gaiters tied over the checked pantaloons at the knee, a short coat of a similar check, a black belt at the waist, and a pith hat that defied the sun. There is much to be said for the comfort of this dress and its adaptation to jungle wear ; but much certainly could not be said for its appearance on the person of our friend Massey. A rotund stomach of large dimensions loomed still larger over the tightly- fitting gaiters, and made a ridiculous contrast — " a barrel balanced on a pair of tongs," was the simile by which Hofer subsequently de- scribed it, although I willingly confess there was much exaggeration in the comparison. " Well, Mr. Massey,'* said his spouse, on first observing him, " did I not tell you they would be here this morning ? Yet you would go out." " You are always right, my love," he pru- dently answered, whilst Hofer and his wife exchanged amused glances. " You are always right, my love. I trust dinner is nearly ready." The fair dame was mollified by her husband's prudent submission, and calling a servant, .Tayatillike by name, told him to teU the A FRENCH PLANTER. 103 appoo* or butler, to hurry the dinner as much as possible. As good a dinner as a well-kept estate in the jungle could afford was speedily provided, and we attacked it with appetites such as a moun- tain journey can alone supply. After it had been discussed, the conversation turned on our estate, and on my uncle's measures respecting it, which met with but quahfied praise. " I was there," said our host to me, " when your uncle's partner, Mr. Roquelaire, the French- man, died ; and a more melancholy scene it has never been my lot to witness." " I heard that it was, indeed, a lamentable occurrence," said I, " although I have not been able to arrive at all the particulars." " Mr. Eoquelaire," said our host, " had been in the island for many years. He was an experienced Java planter, and, like all of us, had hoped to make enough to enable him to return to his native land, and settle there, in the prime of hfe. His first speculation in Ceylon, however, was a failure, owing to the caprice which directed the making of roads in the neighbourhood. He spent much money upon an extensive piece of forest land; and had it * The Appoo corresponds to the Indian Khansamah. 104 DRAMA OF REAL LIFE. been made accessible by a high-road running near it, as he and every one else expected, for the estimates had been already prepared, and Government had announced its intention of prosecuting the work, it would have been a most valuable possession. The engineer had advised the construction of the road as I have said — the estimates were sent in — nay, a com- mencement had actually been made in its formation — when the Colonial Secretary, unfor- tunately for poor Eoquelaire, bought a piece of land, at a distance of fifteen miles from his, and the road suddenly diverged in that direc- tion, forsaking the neighbourhood of Eoque- laire's property, and the valley in which it was situated, altogether. Others were equally aggrieved with himself. The case was brought before the Legislative Council, but the Govern- ment majority carried the day against the planters, and there was no redress. A private road was then talked of, but was only talked of; and as it would have been too extensive for Roquelaire alone to have undertaken, he entered into partnership with your uncle, and opened the estate for him ; and a more flourish- ing plantation, up to the period of his death, did not exist in Ceylon." DRAMA OF REAL LIFE. 105 " Resolved, tlien, to settle in the island, he wrote to France, asking a young lady, to whom he had, from her infancy almost, been attached, to hnk her lot with his, and she consented. Louise Morin was a Parisienne, delicate, finely- formed, and sphHtuelle. Having made ac- quaintance with an English family going to Bombay, she accompanied them overland. Boquelaire was counting the days that would intervene before he could lead his bride from Colombo to the estate, where he had fitted up his bungalow with exquisite taste for her recep- tion. Ere it came near the time for the arrival of our little island steamer with the mails and passengers from Bombay, he had prepared every- thing for his departure to Colombo to meet her. It was on a Monday that he was to have left the estate ; on the Satm^day previous, with two friends who had joined him for the purpose, as it was an idle period of the year, he went out elephant-shooting, a sport of which he was particularly fond. One of his companions was a rash young fellow, a countryman of his, who unnecessarily exposed himself to danger. The elephants were being driven up the hill by the beaters, near the summit of which stood Eoquelaire and his companions, at some dis- r3 106 DANGERS ATTENDANT OX tance from each other. Eoquelaire brought one down in a moment with the two barrels of his never-faihng rifle, and having leaped upon a crag to avoid the death-rush of his huge foe, he saw his young friend in imminent danger. He had awaited, like his more experienced compan- ions, the approach of an elephant, and had fired, but without their precision, and a large tusker was rapidly approaching him, mad with pain and rage. Some rocks were near, amongst wliich the inexperienced youth clambered; but the elephant was intent on pursuit, and, had it not been for Roquelaire's devotion and heroism, he would probably have lost his life. As it was, the immediate advance of Eoquelaire, with a fresh rifle, turned the attention of the monster upon himself, and, as the broad fore- head of the enraged animal was turned directly towards him, the experienced sportsman felt no fears for himself. The unerring rifle was raised, and a zinc bullet was sent du'ectly into the brain. Roquelaire turned to avoid the dying struggles and convulsive rush forward of the wounded animal, but an unobserved creeper caught his foot, and he feU directly in the elephant's path. He had no time to raise him- self again, for the tottering monster advanced ELEPHANT SHOOTING. 107 with wonderful rapidity, and feU dead dii'ectly upon the body of his destroyer, " It was some time ere poor Roquelaire could be released from his terrible situation ; he was perfectly insensible, and his companions be- lieved him dead as they carried him to the bungalow; but it was not so. The natives speedily succeeded in restoring symptoms of life, and a medical man was procm'ed, with as Httle delay as possible, from Kandy. But irreparable injury had been done — some of the bones of the chest were broken — and no hopes were held out of ultimate recovery, although no idea could be given as to when death would actuaU}" occur. " The bodily torture which Roquelaire en- dured was nothing compared with his mental anxiety, and this mental anxiety, the sm-geon assured me, hastened his death. Knowing that his bride was now near Ceylon, he was mad- dened at the idea of her landing alone in Colombo, and of her probably being left, by his death, without a friend in the island. The name of Louise Morin was ever on his hps, and the idea of her, doubtless, filled his heart. " Your uncle received the bride on her arrival in Colombo, and broke the intelligence to her 103 DRAMA OF REAL LIFE as delicately as possible. AYhat a reviilsion must it have caused in her mind ! She had been looking out for Colombo with high hopes of seeing her affianced lover anxiously awaiting her, of meeting with a bride's welcome, when alas ! that of the widow was in store for her. She called here on her way to the estate, and I accompanied her during the rest of her jour- ney." " Leaving me at a very critical period, I must add," said Mrs. Massey, " but then Mademoiselle Morin was really very enchant- ing, every one said." " The poor girl was bathed in tears almost the whole way," continued the impertm'bable Massey, unheeding the interruption ; " at Kandy we heard that Roquelaire was better, and as no one could venture to tell her that there was no chance of permanent recovery, she passed at once from the extreme depths of de- jection to aU the wildness of unbridled hope. " It was towards evening when we arrived at your estate on horseback, for the road was impassable for a carriage — we dismounted at some distance from the bungalow that the patient might not be excited by the sound of the horses' feet. As we entered his bed- DRAMA OF REAL LIFE. 109 room softly, the surgeon was sitting by his side — Eoquelaire's face was turned from us, as he gazed at the setting sun, now half concealed by the forest — he looked round, and saw his bride who had just completed her long journey from Paris to Ceylon to be his ! ' My Louise, my Louise !' he exclaimed in French, as she bent over him, hot tears drop- ping from her eyes as she kissed his flushed cheek. ' I am happy now, very happy,' said he, faintly, ' and, doubtless, all will yet be well.' She could not say a single word, but contented herself with pressing his hand in her own. ' Have you seen the bungalow?' he asked. ' Do you like Ceylon? Shall we not be happy, very happy here ? my Louise,' — the lips faintly moved further, and she bent down to hear his words — there was a pause — she lifted her head, and, with a terrible calm- ness, said to us — ' he is dead.' It was even so ! The conflict was over, the joy of seeing her had been too much for him ; but nothing, the sm'geon assured us, could possibly have saved him, even had tliis meeting never taken place, as every moment threatened death. Who that had seen that fair and elegant form leaning over the dead body of her betrothed one — who 110 DRAMA OF REAL LIFE, that liad tliought of the thousands of miles she had traversed to embrace a dead lover, could help weeping like a child as I did, with her ?" " But what became of her, Mr. Massey?" asked Mrs. Hofer, earnestly, her eyes bedewed with tears. " She returned with me," he answered, "and, before we got to Kandy, she was seized with a brain fever, which was on the point of miiting again those whom fate had so crueUy separated. But she recovered slowly^ — her maid, whom she had left in Colombo, tended her, affectionately, and I was seldom absent from the house. On her recovery, she spent a few weeks with us here." " My Henry was born whilst Mr. Massey was waiting upon her," said his aggrieved spouse. " She returned to Paris, shortly after, and has taken the veil, I am informed," concluded the worthy husband. " She could not have done better. One, whose heart is dead to the world, will still find consolation and interest in religious ex- ercises and benevolent offices," said Mrs. Hofer. " Would that Protestantism afforded a similar CONVEESATION THEREON. Ill refuge to the weary in soul and the broken in heart !" " Bless me, Mrs. Hofer," exclaimed Mrs. Massey, " do you wish that we had nunneries in our Protestant rehgion ?" " I do," replied the fair enthusiast, stoutly. "I do, because I think there are thousands, who, Hke Louise Morin, are so sick of the world and so sorrow-laden, that they would find the only alleviation their woes admitted of, in a religious house, and amongst com- panions suited to their tastes and dispositions — companions similarly prostrated in mind or body with themselves." " Well, I have always looked upon them as dreadful places," replied the amazed Mrs. Massey, " and I thought aU Protestants did so too." " We are often nurtured in such a belief from infancy in England, and thus look at these, as at many other things, through false glasses that distort the objects regarded," observed Mrs. Hofer ; " but ignore the good, reject anything merely because it has been abused sometimes, and what, on the face of this fair earth will you retain ? Not Christianity, certainly, for have not its holy precepts, preaching love and 112 SYMPATHY. benevolence, been made the pretexts for tor- turing and slaughtering thousands of our race — thousands who were better, nobler far, than the milhons who were sj^ared, or the few who have been applauded at other times for virtues that involved neither sacrifice nor self-denial in then- practice ?" " I am content to accept my religion as our ancestors handed it down to us," replied Mrs. Massey, " and should be sorry to see any steps taken that would lead us nearer to Popery, and probably land us there at last." Here the conversation ended. Mrs. Massey was content as she had had the last word. Her husband looked approbation of what Mrs. Hofer said, but did not venture to express it openly. Time and experience had taught him prudence, and Hofer and I abstained from join- ing in the discussion, as it was peculiarly a topic for the ladies, and the temper of one of them could not be depended upon. Strangely are we afi'ected by the woes of others, even of those whom we have little or no chance of ever seeing or becoming acquainted with ! The story of poor Louise Morin and the unfortunate Roquelaire made a deep im- pression on our hearts. The Parahara estate MOONLIGHT DRIVE. 113 was sacred to us from that hour, and was ever afterwards associated with it in our minds. We could scarcely endure the ordinary tattle of the table after the rehearsal of this melancholy drama of real life, and were all equally anxious to pursue our journey. Mrs. Massey's eloquence in describing the woes of her existence was powerless to arrest our attention, nor could Massey liimself say anything of coffee or the coolies that did not appear to grate upon our feehngs. By moonlight that evening we drove into Kandy — our journey was, for the most part, a silent one ; nor, indeed, was there much to excite our admiration or interest in the way. We descended into the large valley which encloses the hills that surround Kand}^ ; and after passing a few inequahties of ground, trifling in comparison with what we had already gone over, we approached the great bridge which leads across the principal river of Ceylon — the Mahaweli — directly into Kandy. This bridge is of sandal wood, and crosses the river in one wide span of two hundred and five feet ; an interesting and imposing object in the variegated landscape of which it forms a part. Arrived in Kandy we separated. I found 114 APPEARANCE OF Mr. Pinto, my uncle's Portuguese agent from the estate, awaiting me at the " rest-house," or hotel, where I spent the night ; and, next morning, rode off in company with him, anxious to inspect the property of which, for the future, I was to be master — the scene of the tragical death of poor Poquelaire, and of the first keen agony of his bride. The Hofers remained in Kandy, partly to cultivate the society which it afforded, and partly to give time for the erection of a substantial bungalow on their property, wliich they designated the " Lanka Estate " — Lanka having been the ancient native name of Ceylon. A COFFEE ESTATE. 115 CHAPTEE IV. THE ESTATE— COFFEE. <• This drink, Sir- it takes away the performance." Macbeth, act ii. sc. 3. Seen from a distance tliere is little to recom- mend a coffee-estate that has been but a short time in cultivation. During the greater part of the year, the long charred trunks of trees that have been felled to clear the land, and have lain ever since in the furrows between the coffee-bushes, are but too conspicuous. When the plant is in flower, however, there is a beauty in the general aspect that makes up for the monotonous ugliness of the rest of the season. The unsightly trunks are lost in the delicate white blossom, whilst a delightful perfume sweeps over the hill side, borne far away into the valleys by the wind. Nothing 116 MODE OF CULTIVATIXG can be more grateful to the sight than the pure wliite colour of the blossom nestling amid the bright green of the leaves. It has been truly said, that " although it is an evergreen, few plants exhibit a greater variety of appear- ance throughout the year than the coffee- shrub."* It does not grow well in low situations, and is therefore cultivated on the sides of the mountains, between fifteen hundred and four thousand feet above the level of the sea. Nor will it thrive on table-lands, although they may be of the requisite elevation, as it requu'es shade and shelter, both from sun and wind, in order thoroughly to develope its best quali- ties, and to bring it to perfection. In Ceylon, indeed, scientific considerations, and, in many instances, the experience of all other countries, have been so completely ignored and neglected that the qualities of the berry produced are as various as the situations in which the plant is reared, and the amount of attention paid to its * The Coffea is a genus of Cinchonaceous plants, containing many species, and known by its tubular corolla, with four or five spreading divisions ; stamens arising from the naked throat of the corolla, and either extending beyond it or enclosed within it ; and a succulent berry containing two cells lined with a cartilaginous membrane, like parchment, in each of which cells there is a single seed, convex at the back and deeply furrowed in fi-out, in couscquence of the albumen being rolled inwards. THE COFFEE SHRUB. 117 wants and requirements. The best and the worst descriptions that find their way into the English market have been equally shipped from Ceylon, when a little care and attention on the part of the cultivators would have re- moved the bad specimens altogether, and thus given the island a better name as a coffee-pro- ducing country. In opening an estate, the situation of the land, the directions of the monsoon Tvdnds, the amount of shade available, and the probable supply of moisture from the neighbouring heights, should all be taken into consideration — ^the best estates having been invariably those which, well sheltered and shaded, are situated in such an amphitheatre-like depression on the side of a lofty mountain, as insures a rich soil — the accumulations of ages washed down from the hills above — and a plentiful supply of moisture even in the dryest part of the year. This moisture may not always consist of streams or mountain torrents, but merely of the dews or of the clouds condensed on the hill-top, and constantly percolating through the hill-side to the soil beneath. Much have Ceylon planters been laughed at for asserting that abundance of rocks was almost indis- 118 MODE OF CULTIVATING pensable to tlie proper growth of the shrub, and that no plantations should be formed where rocks do not abound ; yet there is truth in the observation when properly understood. The soil between the large rocks, so plentiful on some hiU-sides, is of the richest possible description, and plants placed in it are sure to tlirive, just as the forest did before, if in other respects the situation be favourable. But when people couple their observation about the rocks with another, that the coffee-shrub loves a poor soil, they are altogether mistaken, as experience, all over the world, proves. Clearing the ground of the forest is an arduous undertaking, requiring the most un- remitting care on the part of the superin- tendent to have it properly done. The trees on being felled are not lopped into convenient lengths for burning as in America, but are merely deprived of their branches, allowed to dry for some time and then set fire to, the large charred stems being subsequently laid in convenient rows, between which the young plants taken from the nursery are planted. Wlien the hill-side is steep and a large mass of the forest thickly fills the air, it is sometimes sufficient to notch the trees half tlirough on THE COFFEE SHRUB. 119 the side turned away from the valley beneath. This done, a few of the largest trees at the top are simultaneously cut through and allowed to faU with all their weight on those half-notched immediately below them. These fall with the momentum of the others, and in their turn weigh down the Hne immediately below, and so it proceeds until the entire vegetation of the hill-side hes shattered and fallen in the most fright ftd confusion. This operation is accompanied by quick rapid reports from the crashing timber that reverberate round the hills and valleys like the hregular discharge of cannon ; the neighbouring echoes taking up the sound, tiU it is lost in the distance, when all is again still for a time. When the berry is ripe, indicated by its rich red colour, every one on the estate is in a constant state of activity — men, women, and children conveying, in hot haste, baskets of the berries to the pulping-house, there to be sepa- rated from the pulp, which surrounds the coffee-bean within, just as the rich juicy fruit smTounds the " stone " in the cherry. This pulp is of Httle or no use, although occasionally given to animals that are not fastidious in their diet; whilst the berry, still surrounded by a 1~0 HOW TO PRErARE liorny coating resembling parchment, is dried a little in the sun to admit of this covering being the more easily removed. The " parchment," as it is called, stripped off, the berry is fit for packing. The different descriptions are sorted, the finer being labelled " Mocha," and the whole sent in canvas bags to the coast for exportation. The pulper and a mill for re- moving the parchment are the only machinery required for the working of an estate, even of large dimensions, all the rest being done by hand, or with the assistance of the diminutive bullocks of the natives. Even the coarsest-grained native coffee is by no means so inferior in flavour to the finest peaberry as people in England suppose. The great difference generally consists in the way in which the beverage is prepared. As soon as the operation of roasting is completed — an operation which requires care and attention not to have it overdone — the coffee should be ground at once and diluted. The subtle aroma which resides in the essential oil of the berry is gradually dissipated after roasting, and of course still more after being ground. In order to enjoy the full flavour in perfection, the berry should pass at once from the roasting-pan to \ COFFEE IN PERFECTION. 121 the mill, and thence to the coffee-pot ; and again, after having been made, should be mixed, when almost at a boiling heat, with the hot milk. It must be very bad coffee indeed which, if these precautions be taken, will not afford an agreeable and exhilarating drink. Two great evils are constantly perpetrated in England in its preparation, which are more guarded against in almost all other countries, and which materially impair its flavour and strength — keeping the coffee a considerable time after roasting or grinding, by which its strength is diminished, and its delicate and volatile aroma lost ; and mixing the milk with it after it has been allowed partially to cool. Experience taught us to avoid these errors in the jungle ; and it was not till Mr, Pinto had repeatedly made both kinds in perfection that I began to discover the difference between the exquisitely delicate flavour of the peaberry, or finest description, and the coarser, equally strong, but less dehcate taste of the larger, rougher, and more unsightly qualities. Our estate was situated on the side of a lofty mountain, stretching down to a rivulet that wound about its base ; beyond which a wide extent of level land opened out to the VOL. I. G 122 LODGING OF LABOURERS East, sheltered on thi'ee sides hj lofty i'ed a The bungalow was built on a level projecti'rio" portion of the hill's side, in the very centre o>^ the cultivated part of the property, for as yet but a fourth of the land which it comprised had been cleared and planted. Further down the mountain, and concealed by thick forest from the bungalow, lay the coohes' " lines " — the residence of the native laboui-ers — miserable sheds, low, filthy, and stifling, in which they and their famihes were all huddled together without decency or comfort. To this method of life they had been accustomed; and Mr. Pinto informed me that any attempt on my part to alter it would but be attended with discontent and desertion. Certain I am that were these labourers slaves, it would be for their owner's interest to afford them better- ventilated, loftier, and more comfortable abodes ; yet they were quite contented with them — 23eals of laughter bursting from these " lines " at night, and during Sundays and holidays, proved that their occupants did not lead what they considered a miserable or hopeless life. Nor were they worse off with us than with others ; but, on the contrary, rather better, as the rivulet was in the immediate vicinity, and ON COFFEE ESTATES. 123 the 3 was, therefore, no want of water, did afLj desire to render their habitations at all cleanlier. I subsequently made the trial I in- tended, notwithstanding Mr. Pinto's advice, by di"\T.ding one of the sheds into compartments for the families ; but I found it worse than useless. It abridged the space allotted to them, without any corresponding advantage, for the undivided portion assigned to the bachelors soon became crowded with both companies, so that the evil, instead of being diminished, was increased, whilst my cdnganies, or head-workmen, informed me, that they had compared the rooms to cattle- stalls, and that those were laughed at who oc- cupied them. Perseverance might perhaps have overcome their prejudices, but I had not the necessary time for it, and gave up the trial in disgust. An amazing amount of sympathy has been lately wasted by the British pubhc on the condition of the slaves in America — that public has but to turn to a portion of the world with which it is more intimately connected, in order to discover abuses as gross, methods of life as repulsive, tyranny as flagrant, as any that exists on the other side of the Atlantic. In India aU these are to be found, if the inquiry G 2 124 BURLESQUE PAPER ON THE be but made. As a class, I believe the Ceylon cofFee-planters were kind and humane, as I have no doubt the Carohna and Mississippi cotton- planters are, but there were Legrees and Haleys amongst them too, and always wiU be as long as human nature continues as it is. Wliat re- dress could the poor cooHe, for instance, have against his European master who illtreated him, miles away in the jungle, far from a magistrate or a court, with aU his fellows up in arms against him, lest they should lose their employ- ment, and his wife and family almost at the complete mercy of his persecutor, or of that persecutor's assistants ? In such circumstances there must be despotism on a small scale, and, wherever that exists, there wall occasionally be cruelty and injustice. The following bui'lesque account of a pre- tended paper, supposed to have been read by a member before the Ceylon Agricultural Society, notwithstanding its gross exaggera- tion, proves the extent to which the unfortu- nate coohe is at the mercy of his European employer, even in the matter of wages, how much more then in personal ill-treatment, when liis companions cannot be expected to take part with him, lest they should thereby endanger WORKING OF A COFFEE ESTATE. 125 their situations, and lose their only means of liveliliood. " A member of the name of Sqneery next read a very clear composition, treating upon an improved system of working a coffee or sugar estate, with the least possible amount of funds. His plan was to keep a well-paid agent in the low-country, to offer high wages to labourers, and of course secure great numbers at all times. By the end of the month great fault is to be fomid with the coolies, which ends in their being discharged, minus their pay, and a fresh lot is sent up by the Colombo agent. As a matter of course the blackguards go to the District Judge, and he issues summonses which must be attended to ; in the mean time fresh labour is secured, which, in due course, is dis- posed of as the last ; so that cases multiply ex- ceedingly. But mark the result ! By a wise law of nature, it takes an ordinary District Judge at least three years to decide a case of this kind ; should he, however, be so foolish as to settle the thing in two, you can appeal, wliich will give you two more. Now by the time the first of these cases is decided, you are getting in a crop, and the proceeds of it enables you to meet the many claims against the whole 126 FIRST IXTRODUCTION OF for labour in past years. So tliat the sum ac- tually required to be spent in the first instance, need he but trifling, if these practical hints are acted upon,"* It is amusing, when contemplating the almost universal use of coffee at present, to turn one's attention to the storm which its first introduction into England created. In the time of the Commonwealth, and under Charles the Second, coffee-houses seem to have been first opened in London, and this " Turkish drink," as it was called, to have become a general favourite with their frequenters — the beaux, and idlers, and newsmongers of the me- tropoHs. Great was the wrath, however, of those whose trades or employments were endangered by the use of the new beverage, and a storm of indignation arose against the innocent shrub, which threatened to drive it for ever fi'om our shores, or to buiy it under a load of falsehood and abuse. The pamphlets which appeared at the time on the subject, prove the violence of the opposing parties. Poetry and prose were exhausted in depicting the evil effects of the habitual use of coffee, in language such as * " Life in the Jungle, by Sami^son Brown," p. 90. Colombo, Herald Press, 1845. COFFEE INTO ENGLAND. 127 cannot now be quoted ; nay tlie very head and front of its supposed offending seems to have been of such a character, that modern refinement or modern affectation would scarcely permit the subject to be hinted at at present, much less openly canvassed. The following were the titles of a few of the broad sheets which were devoted to the vituperation or expulsion of the obnoxious drink : " Baccliinaha Ccelestia ■ — a Poem in praise of Punch," pubHshed in Charles the Second's time, for he is named in it, but without date, in which the various gods and god- desses introduced, do not hesitate to speak their minds openly on the subject — aU lauding, of course, the good old Punch, which cofiee threa- tened to dethrone. *' Eebellion's Antidote" was another pamplilet on the subject, being " a Dialogue between Coffee and Tea." " Printed by George Croom, at the sign of the Blue Bell, Thames Street, over against Baynard's Castle, 16S5." "A Broadside against Coffee, or the Marriage of the Turk. Printed for J. L. 1 672," was, as its title imports, a fierce diatribe, far too coarse, although amusing, for modern " ears polite" — the following lines, however, which are almost the only ones I could quote without censure, will give some idea of its animus — 128 OPPOSITION TO THE " Bold Asian brat ! with speed our confines flee, Water, the' common, is too good for thee." " This canting Coffee has his crew enricht, And both the water and the men bewitcht." " But to cure Drunkards it has got great Fame, Posset or Porridge, will 't not do the same ? Confusion huddles all into one scene, Lilie Noah's ark, the clean and the unclean. But now, alas ! the Drench has credit got. And he's no Gentleman that drinks it not. That such a Dwarf should rise to such a stature ! But Custom is but a remove from Nature ; A little Dish, and a large Coffee-house, "What is it, but a Mountain and a Mouse ?" But enough of J. L.'s doggerel — useful, IVDwever, in two respects, to prove at once the abuse still lavished on coffee in 1672, and also its common use at that time in London ; for " he's no Grentleman that drinks it not," ac- cording to J. L.'s own confession, A few years before, in 1663, an anonymous writer had similarly railed against it in good set terms, under the title of " A Cup of Coffee ; or, Coffee in its true Colors." The follo\ving is quoted from this "■ Cup :" — " Fie, friends to the gross Turkey-shore, shall then These less than Coffee's self, tliese Coffee-men, These sons of nothing, that can hardly make Their broth, for laughing liow the jest docs take. Yet grin, and give you for the Vine 's pure Blood A loathsome Potion, not yet understood, Syrrup of Soot, or Essence of Old Shooes, Dasht with Diuruals and the Books of News?" INTRODUCTIOX OF COFFEE. 129 "News from the Coffe-House. Printed by E. Crooch, for Thomas Vere, at the Cock, in St. John's St., London, 1667, with Alowance " — was equally severe. " The Maiden's Complaint against Coifee " was certainly not written by a maiden, nor calculated to be read by such. It must have appeared dming or before 1663, although with- out date. More able, but not more decent, was " The "Women's Petition against Coifee ; representing to Public Consideration the grand Inconveniences accruing to their Sex from the Excessive Use of that Drymg, Enfeebling Liquor. 1674." Under such a load of abuse, and such tor- rents of hostile verse and prose, it might be supposed that the much-hated berry would have lost ground, but such was not the case ; its advocates were up in arms in its defence, and were probably quite as disinterested in their praise of it, as its adversaries in their hostihty. Whilst, on the one side, there was scarcely an evil under which humanity laboured that was not, in some form or other, attributed by its enemies to the use of coffee ; so, on the other, there was not a disease which it was incapable of curing — so rife were assertions of g3 130 EARLY PRAISE OF COFFEE. the boldest and tlie most absurd character. Perhaps the earliest defence of it, although un- fortunately without date, was " The Vertue of Coffee Drink, first publiquely made and sold in England, by Pasqua Eosee." " Made and sold in St. Michael's Alley, in Cornhill, by Pasqua Eosee, at the signe of his own head." " The Vertues of Coffee," a long panegyric of the new beverage in verse, appeared in 1663, Ijut was far inferior, both in wit and in point, to the tirades which it professed to answer. A more interesting and more able produc- tion was — " The Coffee-Man's Granado, dis- charged upon the Maiden's Complaint against Coffee, wherein is discovered several strange, wonderful, and miraculous cures performed by Coffee (the like never heard of since the Cre- ation). Written by Don Bellicosgo Armuthaz, to confute the Author of that lying pamphlet," wherein the valorous knight stoutly denied the evils said to be produced upon the frame by the use of coffee, and challenged investiga- tion, asserting, furthermore, that rheumatism, gout, stone, quinsy, and a host of other dis- eases, were curable by its use. Don Bellicosgo Armuthaz's warlike production made its appear- ance likewise in 1663. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE. 131 " The Men's Answer to the Women's Pe- tition against Coffee," was not a whit more dehcate or refined, than the pamphlet to which it professed to reply. It bears the date of 1674. In the same year appeared a far more tem- perate production on the subject, although equally extravagant in its broad and unqua- lified assertions, entitled, " A brief Description of the excellent Virtues of that sober and whole- some Drink called Cofiee, and its incomparable Effects in preventing or curing most Diseases incident to Human Bodies. London, printed for Paul Grreenwoocl, and are to be sold at the sign of the Coffee-Mill and Tobacco EoU, in Cloth Pair, near West Smithfield, who seUeth the best Arabian Coffee-Powder and Chocolate made in Cake or Eoll after the Spanish fashion, &c." " The Natm'al History of Coffee, printed for Christopher Wilkinson, at the Black Boy, over against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street," in 1682, professed to be a scientific treatise on the subject, exhibiting a caricature of a coffee- bush as a frontispiece, but was in reality no- thing more or less than a preposterous pane- gyric of the drink, which, by that time, had 132 FIRST INTKODUCTION OF COFFEE. doubtless firmly established itself as a common article of consumption in London. There is something at once interesting and humiHating in now looking back at the strug- gle which ensued upon the introduction of the harmless berry — interesting in the proofs which it affords of the frequency with which, even then, the press was appealed to, and humiliating when we consider the character of the struggle and the way in which it was carried on. Some interested in its abuse and disuse, others in its more extensive diffusion, but both employing the same weapons — wit, lying, and obscenity — to sustain their assertions, and give piquancy and attractiveness to their effusions. In a survey of the entire struggle it is almost im- possible to discover the simple truth from a consideration of the opposite statements, and is not the same true at present of all discus- sions in which unlimited and unbounded as- sertion can be hazarded ? NEW ACQUAINTANCE. J 38 CHAPTEE V. A NATIVE CHIEF, MARANDIIAN. " I cannot hide what I am ; I must be sad wlien I have cause, and smile at no man's jests ; eat when I have stomach, and wait for no man's leisure; sleep when I am drowsy, and tend on no man's business ; laugh when I am merry, and claw no man in his humour." Much Ado About Nothinc;, act i., sc. 3. Shortly after my arrival on the estate, wliich I found in a flourishing condition, under Mr. Pinto's management, I made acquaintance with some of the European and native gentry of the vicinity. Of the latter I was particularly struck with the appearance and intelligence of a Mod- liar, or Kandian Colonel, named Marandhan. My first visit to him made such an impression upon my mind, that I have never forgotten it, notwithstanding the friendship which subse- quently sprang up between us. The sloping mountain's side whicJi formed the most accessible portion of oui* estate, and 134 ROMANTIC SCEXERY. on whicli the bungalow was situated, stretched, as I have said, to a rivulet in the valley beneath. Crossing the rivulet, I made my way tlu'ough a patch of forest, abruptly terminated by a mass of overhanging rocks of the most wild, irre- gular, and desolate description. Stretching for five miles from east to west, this natural barrier formed the boundary of om- property — its weather-beaten summits exhibiting forms the most fantastical and picturesque that can be imagined. In some places covered with moss or some species of tropical lichen, in others bare and bleached with the constant exposure, these rocks reminded me forcibly of the similar groups upon the sides of the moun- tains in Dove Dale, in Derbyshire, resem- bling — "Temples like those amongst the Hindoos, Churches, spires and abbey windows, And turrets all with ivy green." To find a way for one's horse through tliis strange natural barrier, was by no means an easy matter, but, once through, my further progress was unimpeded, although it was some time before I met with a road. The ground was uncultivated, even, and covered, for the most part, with long tufted grass — such land NATIVE LABOURER. 135 as is in Ceylon called " patua " — resembling, I suppose, the prairies of the far West. Dashing then through this tufted grass, with a salutary dread of snakes and serpents, I make my way rapidly along ; keeping on either side and ahead, what the sailors would call a bright look-out for some wild adversary, or more subtle assailant, for the leopards and tic-polongas are equally fond of the open grass land at some seasons of the year. At length there are symptoms of cultivation in the neighl3ourliood. A large open plot of ground, saturated with water, bears traces of having borne a recent crop, and "Uncle Toby," my redoubted steed, covers his fetlocks at every plunge, as he flounders through it. There is a hard bank at one side, however, which has evidently served the purpose of a road, and, making my way to this, " Uncle Toby " is more contented and snorts forth his approba- tion. A little further on we meet a labourer apparently going forth to plough, or more probably, passing from one field to another for that purpose. His plough, a miserable piece of wood with a crooked stick fas- tened on the end, (one extremity of which he holds wiiilst the other scratches the ground 136 KANDIAX HOUSE when actually " ploiigliing," as they designate that operation), is, for the present, thrown over liis shoulder, w^hilst two diminutive hullocks creep on, at a snail's pace, before him. They go quickly enough for him, however, for he is in no hurry whatever. My appearance on the bank has e^ddently disconcerted him, and, putting his plough on the ground, he stares vacantly at me — eyes, mouth, and nose, all dilated to their utmost ; for a white man on a horse is not an every-day sight in this out-of- the-way district. The bullocks calmly crop what little vegetation they can, whilst their master thus enjoys his stare. " Is that Marandhan Modliar's house ?" I shout to him in my best Singhalese. " It is, my lord," is the reply wafted to me after a httle, and I pass on. The house to which I pointed, a white- walled, thatched, and somewhat extensive cot- tage-looking tenement, surrounded by nume- rous mud cabins, stood right before me in a kind of hollow formed by the undulating ground. " Uncle Toby " seemed perfectly aware of the state of the case, for he pushed on bravely and briskly, Avhilst, looking over my shoulder, I saw my friend the ploughman AND ITS OCCUPANTS. 137 slowly picking up his plough and creeping on again after his cattle, as I disappeared from his gaze round the corner, IIa\ing met Marandhan at the magistrate's in our post town of Euminacaddee, I had informed him of my intention of calling on him on tliis particular day. He was therefore prepared for my approach, and I found him hospitahly awaiting me in the verandah as I rode up. Except for the group of poor cot- tages which surrounded liis tenement, and for the amazing numbers of little darkies aU jab- bering Singhalese, and running hither and thither, for the most part in a state of complete nudity, there was not much to distinguish his house from that of a European, externally. Amongst the smaller fry, the children doubtless of the dependants on this small feudal lord, (for I could not believe that he was the father of the maU,) my arrival created a great sensation, and many of them whispered conunents to each other on my white face, which, had I caught them, would not probably have been considered by me as very flattering, for they have an ugly habit, these Singhalese, to us perfectly un- natural, of painting their devils white instead of black. Many of these little ones, those 138 KANDIAJ^ CHILDREN. especially who kept carefully at a respectable distance, and peeped from behind a wooden pillar, or over the shoulder of a braver com- panion, or from behind their mother's scanty drapery, had never seen a white man before, although the aforesaid paintings in their tem- ples were familiar to them, and there is, there- fore, no necessity to indicate further for whom they probably took me. Even a few pice which I scattered amongst them did not seem to relieve their minds on this point ; yet some of the bolder, those who had remained nearest, bravely laughed at their fears, and advanced one step nearer, to show that they, at all events, were not afraid. Eising from his chair, Marandhan saluted me with a hearty shake of the hand, and ex- pressed fluently in English his pleasure at tliis the first visit with which a European gentle- man had ever deigned to honour him. He was a fine specimen of his class. Let me try and bring him before the reader, as he stood before me at that moment. Imagine, then, a middle- sized man, with a darkish face, not by any means black, scarcely approaching to black by any conceivable degrees ; — the colour of well- milkcd colfee, is the simile that naturally KANDIAJSr chief's DRESS. 139 suggests itself to me ; a variegated silk hand- kerchief, tied, turban-fashion, round his head ; a close-fitting vest covering the upper, and a roll of muslin, forming an ample girdle, the middle, whilst full petticoats, looped up be- tween the legs, giving the appearance of wide trousers, concealed the lower portion of his person, liis feet being tlu:ust into a pair of Chinese-looking slippers, peaked and turned up at the toes. In such a guise, his hand ex- tended to grasp mine, Marandlian was a notice- able object, such as no one could pass by, whose eyes and mmd were active, without feeling an impression that it was a Hving, breathing man, of some mark and likehhood, that was thus tricked out externally — as we all are, according to the fashion of our time and country. The reader is disposed to smile at the looped- up petticoats, the ample muslin girdle, and the rings which adorned his ears. Nay, let us not smile ; let us begin to judge men by other than tailors' eyes, and to think more of the furniture within the cranium than of its ex- ternal ornaments ; for whether a man wears a silk handkercliief tied round it, or a beaver hat a foot high above it, makes httle matter in the 140 INTERIOR OF HOUSE, long run ; nor to tlie world within is it of the shghtest consequence whether the hair be long, lank, tied in a knot behind, as Marandhan wears his, or more artistically disposed in well-cared ringlets on the reflecting European's head. Noble thoughts and grand ideas may have oc- cupied both internally, and doubtless both are seeking ardently, as aU tliinking men do seek, to solve this strange enigma of a nineteenth-cen- tury world, with such lights and helps as Europe and Asia respectively can aflbrd for that purpose. Having conducted me to an apartment within, ornamented with several elaborately- carved articles of Singhalese workmanship, and the walls of which were hung with various trophies of the Marandhan family — a family once of great note in the island — my host pointed to a chair, and we seated ourselves. A servant shortly after entered with fruits, sweetmeats, and wine, which I found pleasant and refreshing after my long ride. Cigars were subsequently introduced, and we smoked in concert till the conclusion of my stay ; an energetic and interesting conversation being maintained between us during the whole time. Of this conversation I noted down shortly after a few fragments. CONVERSATION. 141 " So many of ni}'- countrymen," I began, " have assured me that the native chiefs desire to withdi'aw themselves from European society, that I fear I may have been rude in visiting you as I have done." " Far from it," said he ; " we of the Kan- dian provinces do not certainly desire to be measured by the standard of our coast fellow- countrymen, whose meanness and sycophancy we, for the most part, despise ; and, as Euro- pean gentlemen know httle of the distinction between the Singhalese of the coast and the Kandians of the mountains, we shun that supercihous contempt to which the others sub- ject themselves. You are certainly the first Eui'opean gentleman that has taken the trouble to find out my poor abode and to visit it ; but I have all my hfe hved in intimacy with some or other of your countrymen, either here or in Kandy." " You do not, then, regard the natives of the coast as being equal to those of the inte- rior?" I observed, surprised. " I regard them as being as much our in- feriors in intellectual and moral quahties as they certainly are in physical," said Marandlian, firmly. 142 CONVEESAtlON WITH " I am inclined to agree with you," said I, " short as has been my acquaintance mth either. Of their physical inferiority there cannot be a doubt — and to this the bracing air of 3'our mountains and table-lands, doubtless, much conduces, whilst their lives are spent amid the heat and enervating tropical luxmiance of the lower coast district. But this fact seems generally understood by Enghslmien, so far as my experience goes — they invariably ranlt the Kandian far above the lowland Singhalese." " They do, I beheve, in words," he answered, "but not always in act. Accustomed to the servility and debasement of the coast, they treat, too frequently, with supercilious injustice, the claims of the Kandian to be recog-nised as a man, and not to be cuffed and petted alter- nately, as a spaniel of the tamest character. Hence, frequently, our shyness. I have always remarked, however, that those who have but lately left England have less of this intolerable hauteur than those long resident on the coast." "Your words, Modliar, convey a quiet sarcasm, which I fear we too often deserve," said I. " We are all creatm-es of habit, indeed, and if a man has been brought up, or has even only associated for years, with ' spaniels of the A KANDIAN CHIEF. 143 tamest character,' he is likely to became some- what overbearing." " It is erroneous to suppose, however, that the contrast between the Kandian and the Singhalese is solely the result of physical cir- cumstances or conditions, or, indeed, chiefly so," continued mine host ; " the history of oui- country, which few Englishmen know any- thing about, shows plainly that other causes besides temperature and situation have been at work to produce this contrast." " I fear I too must plead ignorance of the liistory to which you allude," I observed. " It would be weU for us, Sir," he continued, " if, indeed, it can at aU be well with slaves such as we are, did all Englishmen know some- thing of our history, ere they came to govern or to dwell amongst us ; they would respect us more, believe me — if, as I said, any Hngering remnants of respect can anywhere be fished out of deep human contempt for slaves. Our royal and noble families can trace back thek pedi- grees through lines of statesmen and warriors to the time of your era and before. A noble whose family only boasted of such antiquity as ,your Howards and Stanleys, would, amongst us, be considered ' a new man.' You smile at these 144 CONVERSATION WITH comparisons, doubtless, if not externally, at least internally ; jou. may so ; yet, what your Howards and Stanleys are now, and have been in days gone by, our Molhgoddes and Kapitti- polas, with similar lights and influences, might have been. Nor are we without our Agin- courts and Cressj^s, our Blenheims and AVater- loos, although on a smaller scale. There was a time. Sir, when Ceylonese arms conquered all Southern India, the country of om' natural enemies — our France, in fact. There were in- vasions on both sides frequently, and the Gulf of Manaar has as often been covered by warhke armaments as the English Channel ; for years our superiority was confessed — our kings carried all before them, extending their arms from India to the Eastern peninsula, where our re- ligion was permanently planted, a living monu- ment of our former prowess. Not very long after William the Conqueror destroyed Saxon liberty in England, Prackrama, om* Idng, was successfully carrying the arms and warriors of Ceylon into Bui'mah and Cambodia, which he thorougld}" subdued.'* Pardon me, Sir, but I love to linger over these deeds of other years. * In the Appendix will be fotind an account of the reign of Prackrama. A KANDIAN CHIEF. 145 when the title I bear* was the symbol of com- mand over a thousand men, and not an almost mimeaning civic distinction. Miserable is the nation that can but boast of the deeds of its ancestors, whilst it mourns existing debasement, without the faintest hope of eradicating it ! " I intended to show you why, as history tells us, the Singhalese of the coast and the Kandian of the mountains are not like fellow- countrymen, nay, are most unlike. It was early in the sixteenth century, as you count centuries, although in our twenty-second, that the Portuguese first landed in this island. Their guns and sliips equally astonished the degenerate men of the day, for civil wars and inhuman tyranny had accomphshed their usual feat of destroying the spirit of the nation. " The coast was speedily conquered by them, but all their attempts upon the mountainous interior, defended as it was by Kandian valour, miserably failed, and, for one hundi'ed and fifty years, the heart of our island beat as freely and as manlike as ever, although the extremities had been trained to obey their new masters. The Dutch came, and, aided by Kandian arms, they drove out the Portuguese, * That of Modliar. VOL. I. H 140 CONVERSATION WITH under the promise of liberating the island, but the forts were strong upon the coast, its wealth was enticing, and they seized for themselves that, of which they had succeeded, by our help, in depriving their enemies. Violent were the efforts to dislodge them — the low-lands con- tinued theii'S notwithstanding — and for nearly one hundred and fifty years more seemed con- tented with its new masters. Thus you see oui* coast-Singhalese fellow-countrymen have served three sets of sovereigns in succession, whilst our bondage, I mean that of the Kandian provinces, is but as that of yesterday in compa- rison ; free for more than two thousand years, we have been slaves for thirty, and what are tliirty years in the life -time of a nation ? Is it any wonder then that there should be a con- trast between the two ?" " Yes," I rcpHed, " this does indeed suffi- ciently account for the wide difference between the Kandians and the Singhidese, but it appears to me that, with a very pardonable national vanity, you attribute the long inde- pendence of the Kandians to a different motive from the true one. Sm-ely the natm-al features of the country would be sufficient to repel any invaders. Do not mistake me. My object is A KAJSTDIAN CHIEF. 147 not to prove that the Kandians are not brave — all allow that fact — but where natural difficul- ties of an almost insuperable character presented themselves, surely we need not look for any other cause of defeat. The immense superio- rity of European over Asiatic arms, and the perfection to which the science of slaughtering man has been brought in the West, puts the consideration of personal bravery almost out of the question." " The rugged mountains," replied Marand- han, " wliich encircle, like the quiUs on the porcupine, the heart of our island, doubtless did much to protect us, but these difficulties were again and again surmounted by the enterprising Portuguese. Their armies frequently made their way to Kandy, but were always ulti- mately expeUed. They took advantage to the utmost of the disputes of the princes, and always added new elements of discord when they could, in disputed successions or contests for the throne ; but without ultimate success. Nay so far from assured success of any kind, that often, of all their coast possessions, a fort or two was alone left to them — the hard walls of which formed impenetrable obstacles to un- scientific Asiatic valour. Yet there were they H 2 148 CONVERSATION WITH cooped up for months, sometimes for years, by a blockading army of Kandians, wliich, without artillery and the command of the sea, could do notliing effectual, till in their despair and famine, whilst still looking anxiously sea-ward for supplies, they actually began to eat one another ! This is no romance, Sir, nor the coinage of an overheated brain, but these are the words of sober history and truth, as the Portuguese chroniclers and your own, avouch, for I have taken some pains to make myself acquainted with their works." " You are right, Modliar. These facts are but little known, I fear, to Em'opeans generally, and it would probably be well for her children, if the history of Ceylon were more studied by all who make her rich low-lands, or her rugged mountain sides, their home." " The study of that history would, 1 believe," said he, somewhat bitterly, " make your coun- trymen think something more of us — spaniels though we may appear to be upon the coast — at the same time that it must make the Englishman think more of himself, and of his country ; for must not the reflection occur to him — what the Portuguese and Dutch, whilst living in the island for three hundred years, A KANDIAN CHIEF. 149 could not accomplisli by force or fraud, we, be- fore we had been twenty, had fully effected?" " But were not the British invited into the interior to aid in dethroning some inhuman monster, and then forced to extend their domi- nion by breach of treaty on the part of the Kandian authorities, involving the massacre of some British troops ?" I asked. " I retain some confrised images of this kind, dimly floating over the surface of my memory, from what little I have read of these matters." *' A people in possession of the coast," re- pHed the Modhar, " all powerful by sea, and completely masters of the adjoining continent, would find httle difiiculty in getting invitations into the interior ; nor was there an Eastern despot, I suppose, that ever hved that might not be made to appear inhuman when his actions were properly coloured to horrify an European audience, I know nothing of the secrets of cabinets, or of the working of that pohtical machine, a Court, but I can easily conceive a disappointed or discarded minister wishing to embarrass his successor in every possible way, and little scrupulous of the means, when passion or interest urged him on ; such a minister, we are told, fled to Colombo, and asked the assist- 150 CONVEESATION WITH ance of a British force against the tjTant who would employ him no longer, and against the stability of whose throne he had been plotting. I have known some who were intimately acquainted with the private hfe of the last King of Kandy, and they accused him of weak- ness of intellect, and of headlong fits of passion, but of nothing worse. Certainly not of worse things than sovereigns now upheld in India at Hyderabad and Lucknow, by the British authorities, and whose tlirone, in fact, rests upon British bayonets, are constantly guilty of. But the nation that has not the spirit to die in the struggle for freedom deserves its abasement, and it is useless to extenuate the circumstances on either side ; the result is pal- pable — on all sides we have but to half open our eyes to see it too. A country enslaved — a nobility falling into the depths of servility — a rehgion tottermg under the incessant attacks, open and secret, of that patronized by our rulers. Altogether as miserable and lament- able a spectacle as the eye of man probably ever witnessed." " The theme is a melancholy one for you, who feel so acutely, Modliar," said I ; " but, beheve me, I did not introduce it from any A KANDIAN CHIEF. 151 evil motives, or even from a vain curiosity. If it be any consolation to you to know that you have made one European think better of you and of Ceylon, you have that consola- tion ; and it will be long indeed ere I forget the eloquence, both of tongue and eye, with which you assert your country's claims to respect. But surely there are lights as well as shadows in this grand historic painting. Is there not social improvement visible ? Is not education spreading amongst the people ? Are not war and bloodshed put an end to in the island ? No more disputes, their history written in characters of blood, for the throne ; no more warring of coast with hills, or hills with coast ; no more foreign invasion or domes- tic disturbance." * " Thanks for your kind words," said he. " They, like cool draughts for the fevered blood, have their value and their use. As to the present state of tilings, we, in our Oriental pahn-leaf books, have a fable, often referred to, that illustrates it. A company of ants had collected, with long toil and incessant labour, a great heap of corn. ' Now,' said they, ' we * It must be remembered that this conversation was held some years before the late rebellion under Lord Torrington's administration. 152 CONVERSATION WITH have worked enough, let us enjoy.' Hereupon violent disputes arose amongst them as to the division of their store. Some would have too much for the present ; others wanted their whole portion at once ; others declared they should feed in common. At length they decided that a venerable grey -beard, assisted by able diplomatists, should decide the disputes, having authority to enforce his decisions. A big burly fellow, with an excellent appetite, got a good round share, and professed himself contented, but, in the night, tried notwith- standing to steal some more. He was brought before the grey-beard. 'Let his portion be taken from him,' said the judge, ' and distri- buted amongst others. Nevertheless, he shall be fed daily, if he works hard, and must not starve ; and if he, by repentance, proves his sorrow, he shall be restored to our favour, and get a share at last nearly equal to that which he has forfeited.' The big burly fellow was discontented however, and stealing off, like a thief as he was, came to a sparrow who had found great difficulty in providing for her numerous young ones. Her he told of the store, and of the weak point of the ant-hill. Collecting her Httle ones, she flew directly A KAISTDIAN CHIEF. 153 to the neighbourliood, and conveyed them all there in safety, one by one. Then speedily making an entry into the ant-hill — ' My friends,' said she, ' you are all quarrelhng here ; brethren should live in peace and amity. These stores of corn are the cause of all your troubles. I wish to make you happier, and therefore I shall relieve you of what is to you a serious annoyance.' So saying, she caUed her brood, and the corn stores were speedily demoHshed — all that could not then and there be eaten, being conveyed to her nest. ' And my share,' whispered the big burty fellow that had brought her. ' Traitor, you do well to remind me of your treachery to your rela- tions,' she exclaimed, as she picked him up in her bill, and he disappeared. AU that re- mained of the ants, from that moment, were on a footing of equality — there was no fear of any further disputes respecting the division of pro- perty amongst them." " Your apologue is amusing, Modhar, at aU events," said I, smiling, " if not very apt ; but it does appear to me that you take the gloomiest view of things. You surely will allow that the civilization of the West, with its world- H 3 154 COITVERSATION WITS traversing ships and engines of every kind to diminish human toil, is a superior tiling to that of the East, with its empty despotic shows, and stand-still-do-notliingness. Progress is the law of humanity as estabhshed by nature ; immo- bility was the law of Eastern despotism, and hence it was unnatural ; and, like all unnatural tilings, was destined to speedy destruction, root and branch." " I am not by any means insensible to the grand facts of European civilization," replied Marandhan ; " but whether they lead, with their restless uneasy change, to heaA^en or to hell, I am not aware. No paradise of man, it appears to me, is to be found in this ever-roU- ing, never-stopping whirl of frothy commotion. Far otherwise. Ships capable of traversing the ocean in all directions, and journeying from pole to pole, and from antipodes to antipodes, are grand facts in tliis new civilization of the West ; but we, in times past, have had the like, although by no means equal — far inferior, doubtless, to yours : but these very ships are themselves an element in that ever-whirling frothy change. They make men look to change, and not to permanence, as their greatest happi- A KANDIAN CHIEF. 155 ness ; and that is, in my mind, a lie. And then, as to your engines, that diminish human labour, do your people work less, or require to work less, now than before ? nay, if the ac- counts I see in books, be true, the labouring poor of England find it difficult to keep ragged or naked starvation from their very doors. Indeed, I have heard gentlemen from England say, that the poor of Ceylon are infinitely better ofi" than those of their own country. In God's name then, may we not ask, if not for the benefit and happiness of your own people, for whose do you come and make India and Ceylon subject, the Cape, America, and innumerable islands here and there ? Strange advance that leaves more misery at home than it finds abroad ! strange glory that cannot even hide hunger, destitution, and want of all things, in its ample cloak !" " The very superabundance of the population of England proves the prosperity of the country," said I. " Then so did that of Bengal under its worst tyrants — tyrants, at whose doings virtuous England has held up her hands in horror," was his reply. *' The cases are not analogous," I argued. 156 CONVERSATION WITH " Tropical luxuriance supplies that food in the one case, which, in the other, must be wrung hardly from a scanty soil. But it is not so much in physical, as in moral and mental respects, that European civilization stands so pre-eminent. The science, the pliilosophy of Eui'ope, is of the liighest character that tliis earth has yet seen. Man, with a hammer in his hand, breaks the rocks, and finds the hand- writing of ages on them ; from which hand- writing he decyphers the history of his planet, thousands, perhaj)s millions, of years before he appeared on it. He shapes a tube, and wanders in the immensity of space, through other systems and other suns, and sees wide universes on every side. Surely, Modliar, there is a nobility in such thoughts, which even the meanest may conceive, that tells well for our European civilization in this much abused nineteenth century ?" " You are younger than I am," said he, quietly, " and have higher and brighter hopes. Thoughts such as you have hinted at, wonder- fully feed our vanity, and are, in my mind, extremely deceitful. Man, as you say, finds out everything about everything, except about him- self ; and that knowledge about himself is pre- A KANDIAN CHIEF. 157 cisely of the most importance to him. Wliether he knows more of himself, with aU those pyro- teclinic flashes, that dazzle, but do not iUumine some of us, at all events, I cannot pretend absolutely to determine. But I shall bring in the testimony of a man who, for fifty years I have heard, was at the head of European literature, and who was an ardent cultivator, and success- ful explorer in that field of science you praise so much. What says he, with all his modem lights, pyrotechnic and otherwise ? ' Stars silent roll over us, Graves under us silent.' Profoundly significant appear to me these few words, meaning, among other things, that he, for his part, had not learned much of the origin or destiny of humanity from all his re- searches," " I am amazed," I replied, " at your depre- ciation of these ennobling thoughts. To me they appear to be of practical importance the most extraordinary, inasmuch as they cultivate the soul, and make it look something farther than the eye can see. They give it a tone it cannot otherwise acquii-e — an elevation, a supe- riority, a power and vigom' unattainable in any other way. Nor did I conceive it possible 158 COXVERSATION WITH that an enlightened mind like yours should for a moment uphold Eastern in preference to Western civilization." " Let us talk over the matter then/' replied mine host, bringing his chair nearer to mine, " quietly and argumentatively. Take another cigar; it conduces to thought. Yes, I must confess, I look upon these noble thoughts as so many air balloons, yielding mighty rumb- lings when struck and wonderful to gaze at, but difficult of practical application to any useful purpose on this earth. To ask me to prefer Western to Eastern civihzation is to ask me to prefer Christianity to Budhism, which I cannot do. The civihzation of Ceylon, of Tartary, of Chin-India is Budhistic — that of Europe is Clmstian ; and retaining my prejudices, if you will — convictions, I should have said — in favour of Budhism, I must prefer its influence in most ways. But I am ready to talk over the matter quietly with you." " At some other time, then,"* said I. "I have ah'cady trespassed too much on your goodness, and am deeply grateful for the in- * My subsequent conversations with Marandhan on the subject of Budhism and Christianity will be found in the Appendix to the second volume. A KANDIAX CHIEF. 159 formation you have given me, and the pleasure I have received in conversing with you." So saying, I took my leave, my stock of knowledge increased, my eyes very considerably opened on many points, by this conversation. 160 INCIDENTS IX CHAPTEE YI. A DAY AT A FRIEND'S-SNAKES AND MONKEYS. " There was more foolery yet, if I could remember it." Julius Casar, act i.| sc. 2. The incidents of the planter's life are not gene- rally of a very strange or exciting character. The felling of a new piece of forest ; the plant- ing of the newly-cleared ground ; the engaging of a new gang of coolies or labourers, and their subsequent dismission, when the picking and manufacturing periods are over ; the occasional starting of a leopard or bear in the uncleared land; the destruction caused by some wild elephant, banished from his herd, and an out- cast from society generally ; the happy antici- pations of a heavy crop, or the gloomy fore- bodings of a more than ordinarily hght one ; these, with an occasional journey to some A planter's life. 161 friends in the neighbourhood, to Kandy or to Colombo, form the staple of the varieties of his existence. To these must be added the arrival of his letters, and particularly of the EngHsh mail. That is, indeed, a joyous time ! How he luxuriates in the well-known address that heads the letter from home, telling, probably, of boyish days, raising happy associations, re- calling a host of incidents that the cobwebs of memory have been gradually rendering dim and dingy in his mind. The old famihar hand- writing, too — it is dear to the banished exile, nay, beloved by him. But how much more the quaint old thoughts, the remarks on his letters, so fall of home and simpHcity — it is breathing English air again to read them ! Tlie same stereotyped advice that a fond mother has been inculcating from the day he first left her watchful eye — the same anxious exhorta- tions of sisters and maiden aunts to be careful, and not to expose himself heedlessly or rashly to danger from wild animals, and by no means to associate much with that horrid Mr. A., that reckless Mr. B., or that plausible, but dangerous, Mr. C. The sly hints of the more " knowing ones," that it would be well to avoid exaggeration of all kinds, are equally 162 LIFE IN THE JUNGLE. amusing, as an exhibition of self-satisfied hu- manity, that would show itself so much above the common, gently liinting many things, openly asserting few or none — quahfication built on quahfication, until the entire epistle grows into one gigantic "if" and " but." The fact is, no man can hve long in the jungle without encountering many adventures, which the aforesaid "knowing ones" would deem highly problematical, if not absolutely false; brought into constant contact, in some way or other, with the wild denizens of the forest, he must either be a Avitness to, or hear of, dangers, escapes, struggles, and accidents, that many would doubt, and some absolutely reject as untrue. Unhmited scepticism leads, perhaps, to more errors than unlimited credu- lity ; and there can be no doubt that the latter is the happier quahty of the two. Every one has heard of the sagacity of that good old Scotch dame, whose son, an apprentice on board a West Indian ship, returned to her, brimful of news, from his first voyage. " Plying fish, Jock," said she, with a wise shake of the head ; " na, na, lad, ye'se no get me to believe that. Sich-a-lilve monsters I never heerd tell on before ; and dootless, Jock, an' ther' war sich LIFE IN THE JUNGLE. 163 the Bible would say someat aboot them." " Oh, then," said Jock, " I suppose, mither, there's no use in teUing you of the sugar- mountains and the rum-river in Jamaica ? But you speer't at me, mither, about what I saw, and sae I teU't you." " Noo, Jock," said the old dame, smiling sagaciously — " noo, Jock, your talkin' the words of truth and soberness, I ken weel, for a' the sugar and the rum, I heerd your father often say, comes from that part, and sae I see nae reason why they should na have their mountains of sugar there weel eneugh, ay and their rivers of rrnn tae." We had been very busy getting in our crops — every hand hard at work — every corner of the plantation alive with men from earliest dawn to the latest glimpse of Hght, picking the berry or bringing it by bullocks or by hand to the pulping machine or to the drying platform. New cooHes at work to be looked after, much of every kind of work requiring to be done, and but Httle time to do it in — the manager's eyes required everywhere, whilst he, heated and ex- cited, moves rapidly from place to place, now inspecting the pickers, and anon galloping off to the machinery, forming all the way abstruse calculations as to the probable result of the 164 THE HOFERS. season. All bustle and excitement, healthy hopeful work too that year — the " out-turn," as we called it, rather above the average. At such a period, there was no time for calling, and, for some months, I saw httle or nothing of the Hofers. At length, when the bags of coffee were almost all despatched on the road to Colombo, and a little breathing time al- lowed, a servant from Lanka brought me a note from Hofer, asking me to come and spend the following day with them. I joyfully assented. Starting early I reached their estate in time for breakfast. Their bungalow was situated on the levelled top of a round and gently sloping hill — a small round hill, about twice the size of that Primrose, which reminds the true Londoner of the AljDs, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains ; a vast amphitheatre, in fact, from the centre of which rose this Lanka hill, and on the flattened summit stood then- bungalow. A strange situation, and picturesque, but not more so than that of many other bungalows in the district; highly couvenient, moreover, inasmuch as the sides of the surrounding moun- tains, on which the cultivation was chiefly carried on, were all more or less distinctly visible from its verandas. As I crested the THEIR BUNGALOW. 165 southern hill, and turned " Uncle Toby's " head downwards into the vaUey, now inter- vening between me and the Lanka bungalow, I had a beautiful bird's eye view of the entire estate — the sides of the gigantic mountains contrasting strangely with the little artificial- like mound in the centre, on the summit of which the bungalow and works seemed like those little painted toy-houses of which chil- dren are so fond. A small stream completely encircled the central hiUs, entering " the happy valley," as we planters called it, from the west, and dividing, so as to encircle the mound, be- fore it made its exit, brawling and foaming through a chasm on the east. Here and there on the sides of the amphitheatre by which I was surrounded, patches of the forest remained in the narrow chinks or chasms with which the hills abound, affording to the eye a pleasant rehef in the dull uniformity of the hues of fallen trees, with the small coffee bushes just begin- ning to be visible at a Kttle distance between them. On the northern side, that facing me as I rode downwards, the jungle was untouched, and still w^aved in its primeval luxm'iance. Arrived at the little stream, over which a substantial bridge led the way to the bungalow 166 JUNGLE LIFE, above, I passed the " lines," or dwellings of the coolies, situated behind a clump of mangoe trees, through which the eager occupants in- spected the strange mahathma and his horse, both, to the uncultivated natives, equal objects of interest. On reaching the summit of the hill, on which the bungalow stood, I found the breakfast- table most invitingly laid out on the western or shaded side of the verandah, whilst the tall graceful figure of mine hostess, garnished with a broad-brimmed Spanish hat, tended the flowers bordering the road. A servant having held my bridle and stirrups, I dismounted and advanced to salute Mrs. Hofer, who was now standing at the edge of the verandah to receive me. The Spanish hat added a new charm to her lovely countenance, which was flushed vdth heat and toil, whilst her hair feU in thick, massive, black ringlets over her shoul- ders. Her form was well set ofi" in a tasteful dressing-gown, tied round the waist with cords from which depended two tassels. Altogether there was a bizarre, and yet an exquisitely graceful, air about her, which heightened the charm of her purely feminine beauty. " Ernest, like yourself," said she, as I shook JUNGLE LIFE. 167 hands with her, " has been taking a long ride this morning, and would have gone to meet you had not business taken him in another direction. But you would hke to wash your hands — Mamdeli !" Mamdeli appeared. " Take the mafiathma into Mr. Hofer's dressingr-room." Hofer soon after made his appearance, and we sat down to breakfast. We were seated in the open verandah, thoroughly shaded from the sun, with a view to the west of the most striking character. There were the two gigantic hills opposite and at some little distance, whilst tlurough the valley between, the Paloya flowed into this happy region, as if lovingly to embrace the bungalow-crowned Mil on the summit of which we sat. Nearer to us was a garden tended by Mrs. Hofer herself, the walks and flowers of which ended in the thick brush- wood and mightier forest vegetation stretching down to the little stream. It was a scene to make any man's heart glad who could find gladness anywhere in nature. Yet I thought I could distinguish a shade of melancholy pass over my fair hostess' features, as the joyous laugh of children was borne faintly on the breeze from the labourers' cottages below. It 168 PLANTING TOPICS. might possibly have been fancy on my part, but it certainly left the impression on my mind that she would be happier had she a little one to rear tenderly and wisely amid this profusion of natural beauty. Hofer w^as in excellent spirits, and seemed to be ignorant of, or to ignore, this feehng, if any such existed, on his wife's part. Our conversation, as might be supposed, was principally of the crops, of our late bustle and hurry and hard work, of his felling and planting, of his nui'sery, of the laziness of the coolies, and the cunning false- hoods of the cang allies,* of the miserable bullocks, and the difficulty of getting an ade- quate supply, of the comparative excellences and defects of the various pulping machines in use, and of the various measures wdiich we severally adopted in many matters — aU inte- resting themes to each of us, but by no means so to others. Nor did the state of the market escape our astute observations, the last mercantile circulars and private advices being frequently referred to, as we discussed that point. Breaki'ast concluded, Hofer took me to see a * Each gang of coolies has a head-man to watcli over and direct it, and he is called its canyuny. A PLEASANT RIDE. 169 new piece of machinery, lately contrived and erected by himself, which he had found, but for one or two accidents caused by the exces- sive stupidity of the coolies, as he said, work admirably well. He had adopted too a new method of preserving the roads on his planta- tion during the rains, with which, at present, he was very busy, but, as this new method had not yet been tested by our tropical deluges, I did not feel much anxiety to witness it. About twelve o'clock, Mrs. Hofer being ready, we started eastward for a ride, for she was an excellent horsewoman, and fond of the exercise. Hofer accompanied us for a short distance, and then darted off in another chrec- tion to see what success had attended the fishing in the Paloya, which he had ordered in the morning. Crossing the stream, we com- menced the ascent of the hill on the other side, which we performed leisurely and cautiously, the road not being of the best. Here we had an opportunity for some conversation. "You seem to have resigned yourself com- pletely to a jungle life," said T, " and to have determined to make yourself content with it." " There is much in it," she replied, " that I like exceedingly. I was always passionately VOL. I. I 170 THE COOLIES. fond of tlie country and of a country life, and the beauty of nature here charms me — the want of society is not very distressing, hut I should he happier if the natives were more imj)rovahle — they look upon me with suspicion, and do not seem capable of believing that I can wish to assist them from a benevolent motive. There is a httle village at the other side of this liiU to wliich I have frequently ridden, in the hope of being of service to some of its inhabitants, but there is only one woman in it that seems at aU disposed to be grateful, or even to like my approach, and she, poor thing, finds a reHef in my visits only probably because she is miserable." " The Kandians are naturally shy, I fancy," was my reply, ^"presenting, in this respect, a striking contrast with the frank confidence of the coolies from Malabar." " I do not know much of these coolies," said she, " being totally ignorant of theu' language, but what little I do know of them is far from favom'ablc. They seem deceitful, mercenary, and lost to all sense of decency and propriety." " If you judge Asiatics by your Enghsh standard, you will certainly find them wanting sadly," I remarked, smiling. " You must re- THE KANDIAN CHARACTEE. 171 member these are the poorest and least civihzed of their class, who travel himdreds of miles to work for a season on our plantations, starving themselves the while, in order to return with their paltry savings (to them, valuable hoards) to their country and families. This alone is, in my mind, a redeeming characteristic — they slave here, not so much for present, as for future, advantage, and very often, to share their little pittance ultimately with starving relations at home. Such is the result of a superabundance of population, the greatest evil, I am beginning to think, whatever po- litical economists may say to the contrary, that can afflict a nation." " There is doubtless much reason in what you say in their favour," she replied, after a pause, " but with all the shyness of the Kan- dians, I prefer them." " The hardships these Malabar cooHes un- dergo, in travelHng on foot through the jungles of southern India and those of northern Ceylon, are but Httle known," I added. " They must arrive, within a certain limited period, in the plantation district, for their supply of food is small, or otherwise they would perish in the forests — hence accidents of a comparatively 17.2 DANGERS OF TRAVELLIXG trivial kind arc often death to them, for their comrades cannot wait ; the race is for life, and they must sacrifice one, or run the risk of being all destroyed. Hence the disabled member of the gang is necessarily abandoned, and deep in the recesses of the forests, amid mid beasts and serpents, the poor sufferers are left with a handful of rice and a shell of water to meet death, all alone under the most hor- rible of all possible forms. Can any picture that the most highly-coloured romance ever presented, be more terrible? The outcast is stretched perhaps beneath a tree by the side of the seldom -trodden path in that cheerless waste — rich vegetation in ample profusion all around him, but no hope ! He begs and in- treats, but the other members of his gang are inexoralile. It is his life or theirs ! The}"- have carried him ten or twenty miles abeady, the}^ can do no more — he seems to become worse instead of better, and now lying help- lessly at the foot of that tree, he sees them leave the little bowl of rice, the little shell of water, by his side. His outstretched hands, his agonizing wailings are disregarded ; he sees them making their way, one by one, through the thick vegetation in front, the long THROUGH THE JUNGLE. 173 line ever pressing onwards — hope before, misery, despair, and death, behind. At length they are all gone, and in the heaven or on the earth, there seems for him no comfort, no ray of hght. Think of night gradually approaching under such circumstances — another human being will probably not approach the spot for days or weeks, and he knows that well. Fancy the shmy snake or wilder leopard steahng to- wards him, glaring on him, whilst he sees the fiery eyes or the forked tongue gradually ap- proaching, without a chance of avoiding the intended slaughter." " 0, it is too horrible to think of," exclaimed my fair companion, shuddering, " and yet I know that not a season approaches without some such scenes occurring in the recesses of the jungle." "Some such," I repeated, "many such. Have you ever questioned your canganies about them ?" " Never," said she, " nor is it a pleasant task to probe the recesses of human misery. But now that you have brought the matter so vividly before me, I shall look upon them more pitifully than I have done." " Such a scene only described to you, believe 174 A GRATEFUL NATIVE. me, Mrs, Hofer," I replied, " makes you feel more deeply than its enactment before their eyes, affects them. The most feeling of God's creatures on earth, women, are almost daily mtnesses to such scenes, and they survive them; nay, not merely survive them, but are as merry as though they had been witnesses of joy all their lives, a week after." " A fact which certainly does not say much for then' ' feeling,' " she rephed. " Nay, we must not judge them by too high a standard," I urged. " It is a mercy to these women that their feelings are not acute, in our acceptation of the word, for acute they certainly are, even amongst them, when compared with those of the men." " All which, in my mind, amounts to this," she answered, " that the women are unfeeling enough, the men absolute brutes." I did not argue the point further, for the road here improved, and we cantered on. Arrived at the little village Mrs. Hofer had spoken of, the poor woman whose gratitude had been excited by her kindness, came forth from her cottage to bless and praise her in the most glowing terms. A few inquiiies respecting the prospects of the little piece of land her son and PICTURESQUE WATERFALL. 175 she were now cultivating, enabled so to do by my companion's liberality, were asked and answered, and we proceeded on our ride to a waterfall in tbe neighbourhood, a favourite re- sort of the excursionists from Lanka. It was a beautifully-secluded spot — one of those natural scenes of surpassing loveliness with which the magnificent island abounds. Two vast rocks, with almost perpendicular faces, covered with moss, or something resembling it, met at right angles, and stretched far apart on either side at their extremities. The stream, a tributary of the Paloya, darted from the corner at the sum- mit, in one mibroken sheet, into an abyss below, a depth of eighty or ninety feet, whilst a grassy knoU, covering a rocky base, du-ectly in front, afforded an excellent platform for witnessing it. This grassy knoll was bordered by bushes which fringed the base of the huge masses of rock on either side, and behind it was bounded by a tliick forest ; altogether, a spot more completely sheltered from the rays of the sun, or affording a more beautiful view, it would not be easy to discover anywhere. It owed its suitabihty for a pic-nic party partly to nature, and partly to Mrs. Hofer's judicious improvements — improve- ments which consisted alone in repressing the 176 PIC-NIC PARTY. luxuriant vegetation, which, if allowed, would have encroached again, as it had done before, upon the table-like plot of grass so admirably adapted for accommodating a party. Servants, who had arrived before us, by a shorter path thi'ough the hiUs, were here in attendance to take our horses, and we found a carpet spread upon the turf, ready for our re- ception, with an inviting-looking basket in its midst. Seating ourselves in oriental fashion (after the manner of tailors, as a European would say), sans ceremonie, we dived into the recesses of the aforesaid basket, in which we found some sandwiches, a cold fowl, and — greatest luxury of all, after our fatiguing ride of an hour and a-half — some bottles of deliciously cool beer. I fear when the genuine Cockney so carelessly reads the words, " Allsopp's Pale Ale," or " Bass's India Ale," in going through the streets of London, he seldom realises to himself the delight A\dth which the weary traveller in India or Ceylon sees these words on the outside of a full bottle — I say a full bottle, for your planter has as little affection for an empty one as Falstaff had for an " unfilled can " — champaign is an excellent drink, if you don't anticipate a dinner after it, but for a 1 i PIC-NIC PARTY. 177 breakfast after a hard ride, or a lunclieon in the jungle, there is nothing equal to the sparkling glass of cool Bass or AUsopp. The frame is, perhaps, on fire, this is the condiment to extin- guish the flames ; exhausted with physical or mental fatigue, with a thermometer ranging between 80° and 90°, nothing half so gently- inspiriting as the white-capped draught of pale India ale ; but then it must be of the right de- scription, not opened a month too early or too late — a gentle simmer of white foam on the top, not breaking out into a deluge of froth, which proves it over-ripe, nor havmg to be coaxed into a little foam, which proves it too fiat. They say George the Fourth could take a longer time to drink a glass of generous wine than any other man, thereby enjoying it to the utmost ; but such Epicurism will not do with our genuine pale India ; it must be quaffed, not hurriedly, but without pause — be the quantity large or small, it should not remain in the glass a minute. " This jungle-life has a strange tendency to develope Epicureanism in the male portion of humanity," observed Mrs. Hofer, as I made some of these remarks to her, on her putting down her glass of ale, half-finished only. I 8 178 PIC-NIC PARTY. •' If Epicureanism mean the making the best of the circumstances in wliich we are placed, yoiu' remark is a very just one," I answered ; " there is so little of accustomed comfort and luxury here — I mean that comfort and luxury to which every Englishman above actual want is used — that it is incumbent on us to make the most of the cu'cumstances in which we are placed, and of the few enjoyments left." "You remind me of Hudibras," answered my companion. *' He was in logic a great critic, Profoundly skill'd in analytic ; He could distinguish and divide A hair 'twixt south and south-west side." " Nor was he unhke you in being able to give reasons for everything, " For when he happened to break off, In th' middle of his speech, or cough, H' had hard words ready to show why, And tell what rules he did it by." " Laugh at me if you will," was my reply, " but to me the making the most of the cir- cumstances in which we are placed appears the truest philosophy." "As an abstract truth notliing can be more certain," quickly rejoined my fair antagonist, J ALARM FROM A SNAKE, 179 " but wlien your dictum is applied to the proper method of quaffing glasses of ale, methinks it has little to do with philosophy." " Here comes Hofer," said I, " we will refer the point to him." Hofer had scarcely taken his place beside us, and given us the best possible illustration of how glasses of ale should be drunk, when a servant, who had been in attendance at a little distance, came towards us with the starthng intelligence that a snake at that moment was making its way into the folds of Mrs. Hofer 's riding-habit. He was a judicious fellow, that servant, cool and cautious, prefacing his infor- mation with the remark that he was not him- self aware whether it was a venomous one or not, but that if it was, our only chance of safety lay in not disturbing it at that moment ! It was a frightful state of things — the joy and hilarity which had beamed on our countenances a moment before, were changed, as by the wand of a magician, into anxiety and terror. Mrs. Hofer tm-ned deadly pale, but maintained her position heroically, feeling or fancying she felt — at that moment the same thing — the gliding of the slimy reptile over the folds of her dress, fortunately voluminous and thick. But what ISO ALLURING THE SNAKE was to be done? To attack it as it lay, was fraught with the most imminent danger to the lady, whose marble-like featui'es sufficiently at- tested the agony she endured. '' I have sent one of the grooms for a httle milk to a cottage not far off, where they keep goats," coolly observed the servant, " the snake will come out to the milk, and, as long as it is undisturbed, there is nothing to fear, it will bite no one." I know not at this moment which of us endured the most suffering for those few brief minutes. The milk came in an open saucer-like vessel, and, advancing as near as he considered judicious, the servant, dehbe- rately, as if about to feed a favourite kitten, put down the bait which was to lure the enemy to its destruction, whilst he departed into the forest for a bamboo. Om' riding whips were near us, and these Hofer and I grasped ^vith grim resolution. For another minute all was silence and anxious expectation. At length, as Hofer subsequently informed me, for sitting nearly opposite as I was to the lady, I could not see it — at length tlie head of the snake, its forked tongue playing over its jaws, emerged from the folds of the riding-liabit, and gradually approached the milk, gradually but too slowly. FROM ITS POSITION. 181 for Mrs. Hofer could endure no more. Seeing by her liusband's face that the crisis had arrived, her nerves failed at the moment, and, with a loud shriek, she threw herself forward. I caught her in my arms, and she almost im- mediately became insensible, whilst the snake retreating into the folds of the dress, which was not yet sufficiently extended to discover the disgusting animal completely, remained motionless. One would scarcely believe it, but as long as the reptile remained quiet, I cared not at that moment how long it might so continue. There was an enjoyment in feeling that lovely head upon my shoulder, the mouth almost touching my cheek, and in grasping that ex- quisite form round the waist, awkward though our attitude, half-standing, half-kneeling, was, that rendered me obhvious, for the time being, of the danger, and whilst Hofer and servants were engaged with the snake in the tail of the dress, I was occupied solely with the statue-like head. I poured out a glass of brandy, and tried to get her to swallow a mouthful, and I bathed her temples with the same hquid immediately after. At length — I cannot tell how long afterwards, her eyes 182 THE SNAKE DESTROYED. gradually, languisliingly, opened and looked up at me. No remedy could more effectually have roused lier, tlian the position in which she found her- self on recovering — the eyes, half-shut hefore, opened at once, a faint frown contracting the brow — the head was raised, and whispering, in a terrified way, " the snake," she stood up, as well as the disarranged habit would permit. The snake thought I, ay truly, the snake! what of it ? Why the poor animal was on the grass, at no great distance, and they were all belabouring it vigorously — tlie servants with bamboos, Hofer with his riding whip. It had been dead long ago doubtless. I felt certain of that fact, and laughed at them heartily. " And after all," said I, approacliing them, " it's perfectly harmless." " Is it ?" said Hofer, turning quickly round, his whole face, grim and determined before, relaxing at once into a smile — " Is it ?" " Of course it is," said I, taking a hold of the head (for I felt morally certain it could not have endured one-half that it had endured and retain a spark of life) ; "of course it is. You see there are no fangs here," and I boldly opened the mouth. Whether it was a venom- A PLEASANT EVENING'. 183 ous snake or not, I was and am profoundly ignorant, but not a tenth of the snakes in the world are venomous, they say ; so the proba- bility is I was right. The natives said nothing. They are wonderfully judicious people. Hofer and I laughed long and heartily at the trans- action, and even the lady herself, after sipping a little brandy and water, condescended to smile ; so that we rode back in the best possible spirits. I thought she rather avoided my eyes during the rest of the day, but her manner was as kind as ever; so I suppose it was all fancy on my part. One is so fond of flattering oneself ! We spent a wonderfully pleasant evening after this little adventure; the incident it- self, indeed, lending a zest to our enjoyment, and affording an ample theme for conver- sation. The waterfall lost, from that day, however, a kind patron in our hostess, but such a result was natm^al, and could not possibly be averted. The party which assembled at Hofer's to dinner consisted of the magistrate of Eumina- caddee and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Mouat by name, Captain Lister of the Ceylon Eifles, and Mr. Fowler a coffee-planter of the vicinity. How instinctive are not our fu'st likings and 1S4 A CEYLOX MAGISTRATE dislikings of strangers ! I had met Mr. Mouat on joining the estate ; he had visited me two or three times since, proved himself an ad- mirable companion, full of hfe and anecdote and humour, and yet I felt an antipathy to liim. He was a small muscular man, with an intelligent face, surmounted by an ample fore- head, shaded on either side by straight black hair. Detracting from these advantages, how- ever, and neutralizing their effect on the observer's mind, were two cold, lack-lusire eyes, ever staring, or if twinkling, the twinkle seemed one of malice rather than of benevolence or humour. Not his pleasant manner, nor his racy stories, nor his keen enjoyment of a pleasant party, could remove the impression which his eyes first made upon my mind ; and I found in the course of conver- sation with mine hostess before his arrival, that Mrs. Hofer's impression was similar to my own. He had evidently observed this, and took the most assiduous pains to remove that impression, at all events from the mind of our fah hostess, and doubtless had taken such pains before. Mrs. Mouat, his wife, was a fat pui'sy little body, whose impression seemed constantly to be that she was always in some- body's way. She would look round the room, AND HIS WIFE. 185 as if to find some hole or corner where she would certainly not incommode any one. With an overwhelming sense of her own nonentity, as far as importance went, she amused, or vexed, or distressed those around her, according to their temper and disposition. Twitching her chair the half-quarter of an inch to one side, she hoped she was not incommoding you. You assured her not in the least — quite the contrary, and would fancy it was all over ; but, no ! a minute after she begs you will forgive her for shaking the table, or spilling the salt, or scattering the pepper about, or some other delinquency which you would never have noticed had not she herself called your atten- tion to it. Her conversation consisted prin- cipally of yes ! — no ! — ah ! — indeed ! — very ! and such like monosyllables, expressive of any- thing or nothing at will. Nor was she par- ticular as to the way in which these interesting monosyllables were applied. After a pleasant narration that would make Saturn himself, the gloomiest of men and gods, break forth into a smile, she would merely salute you with an unmeaning and insipid "indeed!" casting a furtive glance under the sideboard opposite, at the same time, as if the reflection crossed her 186 AN ELEPHANT HUNTEK. mind at the instant that, safely ensconced under that, she woiikl he in nohody's way. I sometimes felt tempted to assure her that it would he well to try some of these holes and corners, in order to relieve her mind ; hut I refrained. She had three children, and how she ever contrived to get through life with them I never could discover, for she was precisely the same at home as ahroad, at least on two or three occasions that I happened to call. Seated uneasily on the corner of an ottoman or the edge of a chau', she stroked her dear hoy's head, and simpered out, yes ! — no! — ah! — indeed! — very! just as usual, until I felt strongly tempted to smash the pier-glass with a chair, to see if I could not get anything else out of her. Captain Lister was an excellent elephant- hunter — one of those fine sportsmen with whom Ceylon abounds. And yet to look at him one would not fancy he was a likely person for such sport. TaU and corpulent, he was the oihest of living men. His hair, which had a slight tinge of yeUow in it, otherwise one would call it white, was scanty, whilst his whiskers of the same hue, were abundant. Constantly mopping his forehead with his handkercliief, he seemed . AN ELEPHANT HUNTER. 187 to have worn tlie hair away above it, and hence its great height. He was fond of a good dinner; and the time which he could spare from mihtary duties and elephant shooting (a sport, of which his success in it probably made him inordinately fond) was devoted, according to his friend Mouat, to experimentahzing in sauces. Although somewhat heavy, Lister was a decidedly good fellow, with an amazing fund of anecdote and story, chiefly relatmg to his favoui'ite pursuit and his own exploits in it ; not that I would insinuate that he was vain or ostentatious — ^quite the reverse — no one who who had ever looked upon his glowing, mild, and benevolent countenance could fancy so for a moment. Circumstances threw him and Mouat much together, on their first arrival in the island, and they maintained a friendly in- tercom'se up to this time, although meeting but seldom. Lister, I suppose, was not always so corpulent as at the time of which I write, and having been successful in early hfe as a mighty hunter, had been thus led on to consider the sport an essential employment for him-=— the slaughtering of elephants in fact, one of those things he was sent into the world to do, and which must be done. iS8 COXVERSATIOX OX NATIVE Our conversation at dinner turned chiefly upon snakes in general, and tlie snake in par- ticular, on which subject Lister and Mouat both gave us much information, long since for- gotten. I have a distinct recollection, however, of having been comphmented on the discovery that our adversary of the morning was a harm- less one; and of having borne my budding honours with all possible modesty. The con- versation subsequently turned, how I know not, upon native duplicity v. native honesty ; Hofer maintaining that the Kandians were not a whit worse than other people in similar positions elsewhere. " I quite agree with you," said the magis- trate ; " duphcity is the rule all over the world, honesty the exception." " I should be very sorry to adopt j^our estimate of humanity, Mr. Mouat," said Mrs. Hofer, ever ready to do battle for the noble, the virtuous, and the true. " If you judge mankind by yourself, you will certainly think honesty the invariable rule, and duplicity an impossibility," answered he ; " but alas ! it is a truth, that men in my position particularly, and all men, I fancy, in every position, who have seen mucli of Kfe, must DUPLICITY OE HONESTY. 189 sooner or later discover, that men, when they are honest, are so from habit, interest, or fear, not from principle — that falsehood and dis- honesty are natural to the nine hundred and ninety-nine ; truth and honesty to the thou- sandth only." " I cannot, in your presence," said she, " speak of my experience in Ceylon ; but during the entfre course of my life in England I was brought much into connexion with the country people, in Bedfordshire, and truth and honesty, I can truly assert, amongst them at least, are a hundred-fold more common than you would lead us to suppose. Nay, truth and honesty are, amongst them, the rule, whatever you may fancy to the contrary." " My experience," was his reply, " has lain principally with the town-people and the natives of Ceylon, and that may perhaps be the cause of our difference." " I do not adopt Mr. Mouat's opinion in its mdest acceptation ; but you must remember, Emma," said Hofer, " that you saw the country people of Bedfordshire under the most favour- able circumstances. Your family was known in the neighbourhood, and had been stationary there a long time — the poor around were grate- 190 COISrVERSATION ON NATIVE fill for assistance received from it, and the worst features of their characters would be hidden from the view of a young lady with some pretensions to refinement." " Under what circumstances then, would yon judge of mankind ?" boldly argued the fair en- thusiast ; " if those who have lived in the midst of a certain population, constantly see- ing, and being seen by, them, are not to judge of the virtue or vice they daily exhibit, who shall do so? You object, and probably Mr. Mouat also objects, to my experience, but I have a more weighty objection to bring against his — the experience of a magistrate lies amongst the worst, not amongst the best, of mankind, no, nor even amongst the average, and if such experience is to be accounted that most fit for forming the foundation of a judgment, the dweller in a hospital might be excused for con- sidering all mankind diseased. Do you not agree with me, Mrs. Mouat ?" " Yes," said that interesting lady, casting her eyes fiirtively behind the door. Both the gentlemen were silent. " In my opinion," said Fowler, " your expe- rience is the most valuable of the three, Mrs. Hofer, for, as you say, Mr. Mouat sees more DUPLICITY OR HONESTY. 191 of tlie knavery than of the excellence of man, and my friend Hofer has spent his life in mov- ing so rapidly from place to place, and country to country, that he cannot liave obtained that intimate acquaintance with any one district or population, necessary to form an opinion of this kind. Those who remain long in one locality alone, mingling much amongst the various classes of people resident there, appear to me to be the only people capable of forming, or likely to form, a correct estimate." " There is, doubtless, much truth in your observation, so far as I am concerned," said the magistrate ; " but it must also be re- membered that much, very much depends upon the point of view from which we regard the world. If influenced, like our hostess, by benevolence and philanthropy alone, we shall shut our eyes to the vices, and open them to the virtues, of those aromid us." " Precisely in the same way," said Captain Lister, " as a planter judges a horse — that is, he has a point of view, as Mouat calls it, of his own ; he doesn't care for points or pedigree, all he wants is go — go of all kinds, up hiUs and down hills, and over rocks and through marshes, without any reference to paces or appearance." 192 CONTRASTED CHARACTERS. " Undoubtedly," said Mrs. Hofer, always strenuous and earnest in upholding her convic- tions — " Undoubtedly, the aspect of anything is modified by the subjective bias and idiosyn- crasy, the strength and cultivation of the mind that considers it, as well as by the cir- cumstances in which the individual is placed, hence the impossibility of making all, or even a majority of, mankind think alike on any one subject ; but if we find around us in the world, self-denial and benevolence, a firm adherence to \'irtue and religion, honour and integrity, even under the most unfavourable cu-cumstances, are we not bound to raise our voices against the monstrous doctrine, that all virtue is hy- pocrisy, all excellence selfisliness, all honesty disguised interest !" " I probably expressed myself too unguard- edly," said the magistrate, his cold, inanimate eyes hghting up for an instant, as he looked on the warm and animated face of our chivahous hostess, — " I certainly did not mean to go so far in my assertions. I meant merely that it appeared to me that vice was more common than virtue; but even in that I may be mis- taken — I should not at all wonder if I were." Tliis conversation, trivial as it may be con- ASTKOLOGY. 193 sidered, left a deep impression upon my mind ^ I could not lielp contrasting the honest, hearty, open convictions, openly expressed, of the lady, with the half-implied, half-asserted hesitations and retractations of the worthy magistrate — the one symbolic of the daring confidence of youtliful ardom- in the pursuit of the noble and the true ; the other typical of the doubt, hesitation, uncertainty, and craft, which an extended acquaintance with mankind but too often fosters in the minds of the u'resolute or the vicious. " AVliat of astrology?" I asked of Mrs. Hofer, before she and her automaton-like guest left the table — " You talked at Ambepusse of studying it when you got into the jungle." " I have begun the study," she replied, " and Hke it well. An old priest from the wihare at MirrepoUa, comes to me thrice a- week, and from him I get lessons in Singhalese and in astrology." " You don't mean to say you beheve in astrology?" asked Lister, bluntly. " No," she replied — " I do not yet know enough of it to beheve or disbelieve it, but my impression is, that there must be more in a science, once so universally admitted as truth, VOL. I. K 194 ASTROLOGY. than men now-a-days are willing to acknow- ledge." " That there is some great or leading truth at the bottom which the mystifications of ages have but enveloped in a mass of absurdity and no-meaning verbiage, appears probable enough," said Mouat. " If you can arrive at that truth," said Hofer, " you may be recompensed for the trouble and toil of the investigation, but my impression is, that you will indignantly thrust the whole study from you some day soon, as a vast lie." " I do not think so," she rephed, and then tm-ning to Mrs. Mouat, she added — " your husband and I, I am happy to discover, are Hkely to find some points of agreement in our various opinions." " Very," rephed the fat httle lady, for she had just emerged from a long-protracted yawn, and was now feeling her jaws perhaps to make sure that there was no dislocation — the proba- bihty was, therefore, that she had not heard the observation addressed to her, but had only a vague idea that a word was required, and thought " very" the safest. The ladies soon after left the table. AFTER-DINNER STORY. 195 " You hinted at dinner, Mouat," said Hofer to liim, after a pause, " that our friend Captain Lister had a peculiar antipathy to monkeys. Am I right in supposing that thereby hangs a tale?" " You are," replied the Httle man, his eyes absolutely twinkhng with malicious wit, as he turned them upon the Captain, who had moved uneasily in his chair when he heard Plofer's question. " An absurd story," said Lister ; " but yet one that Mouat is fond of relating — why, I could never discover, for really it does not ap- pear to me worthy of the flourish of trumpets with which he introduces it." " But you will let us hear it, Captain," I urged. " Why Mouat will be sure to tell it to you some time or other, and therefore I had rather he told it now, as I can point out his exaggera- tions and misstatements as he proceeds." " It was a simple enough matter in itself," began Mouat ; " and really I do not see why Lister fears exaggerations on my part. As an illustration of the accidents that one is Kable to in this ' garden of the East,' it is right that you grifhns should be made acquainted with it, k2 196 AFTER-DINXER STORY. for it is only by the misfortunes of ourselves or others that Ave can learn experience. There are two things that Lister is fond of — a good dinner and a fair encounter with an elephant. He is not more dehcate in carving his haunch of venison than in striking a tusker ; and he is equaU}'' good in making away with both. Mrs. Mouat, 3^ou are aware, keeps her own sheep, and I always try and have a supply of good claret in the house, in the hope of alluring him occasionally to Enminacaddee. No man should come to Ce34on to satisfy his gastro- nomic propensities ; and Lister has been heard to say that the tough beef and scraggy mutton of Ceylon had required an amount of patience and endurance on his part during the days of the 3^ears of his pilgrimage in the island, to which that of Job only could be advantageousl}?" compared." " You see what a long-winded peroration he comes out with," said Lister, interrupting him. " I may have made some remark of tliat kind at a time when execrable food only was to be got ; but what has that to do Avith the monkeys ?" " Softl}^ Lister, softly," was the reply ; " I am coming to them. The preliminary circum- stances require explanation. I was on the AFTER-DIITNER STORY. 197 bench one afternoon, about three o'clock, when a servant made his way to me with a scrap of paper, on which were written a few lines in pencil, intimating that Lister was in the neigh- bourhood ; that, being on duty not far from Ruminacaddee, he had determined on paying us a A-isit, and that lie had sent his horse- keeper on before with his horse, whilst he took a bath in the httle lake which the Paloya forms about a mile from our house, in the Sreepah valley. I sent the note to Mrs. Mouat, in order that she might take care that our repu- tation for hospitahty should not suffer on the occasion. About half an hour afterwards I left the bench, expecting to find Lister at home ; but he had not arrived. Having waited for some time longer, and still seeing no sign of om' guest, I proposed to Mrs. Mouat that we should take a walk towards the valle}^ and meet Lister on his route to our bungalow. She assented, and we set off in the direction of the pleasant httle lake, through which the Paloya flows so quietly. You have seen it, I suppose ?" Hofer and I intimated together that we had not. Fowler had. " Have you not ?" he continued. "It's a 198 AFTER-DINNER STORY. remarkably nice place for swimming, and per- fectly safe." " A remarkably nice place, and perfectly safe !" echoed Lister, with a groan. " The hills rise gently on all sides of it," continued Mouat, " but particularly so on that leading to our bungalow, from which it is separated by a dense forest, tlirough which I have had a path constructed. The jungle does not extend to the water's edge, for there is a pleasant shingly beach on all sides, sloping gradually down to the water. Clear as crystal is the lake itself, and uninfested either by snakes or alligators. " Advancing towards the valley along the path, Mrs. Mouat and myself were equally sur- prised at not seehig anything of our portly friend. At length, we approached a little ridge, on the side of the hill, from which the whole lake could be discovered, and, feeling firmly convinced that no man could have been so long bathing, I insisted on my wife's ad- vancing with me, which she did rather reluc- tantly. Standing on this little ridge, to our astonishment, we saw Lister upright in the middle of the miniature lake, with his hat on his head, and the water up to his neck. ' Why, AFTER-DINNER STORY. 199 Lister,' I shouted out, ' in the name of all that is wonderful, what are you doing there in the middle of the water, dressed ?' ' Ahem,' said he, ' I heard you coming — I'm not exactly dressed; in fact — ' and as he spoke he took off his hat, disclosing in the action a bare arm and shoulder. My wife returned precipi- tately to the bungalow, and I advanced. ' In fact,' continued Lister, as he walked deliberately to the shore, ' I've lost all my clothes, and as you're magistrate here, I trust you'll investigate the matter. It does not speak much for the vigilance with wliich justice is executed in Huminacaddee, that a man cannot bathe a mile from the magistrate's bungalow, without having all his clothes stolen,' " " A very natural reflection on my part," in- terposed Lister, interrupting Mouat's recital, " considering the circumstances I was placed in, and ignorant as I was — " " ' All your clothes !' said I, " continued Mouat, ' all, except your hat ! and, let me see, why you've got one stocking on.' That was the enthe stock of clothing with which he made his exit from the lake, and sat down upon a large smooth stone to talk about it. His hat 200 AFTER-DIXXER STORY. and one stocking ! It was all that I could do to keep my countenance ; but in spite of tlie most vigorous resolutions to tliat effect, a grin would occasional!}'- distend my mouth and dis- close my teeth, as I contemplated the portly figure before me, sitting on a stone, the hat and one stocking forming his entire available wardrobe. ' It's no laughing matter,' said Lister, indignantly ; ' the suit of clothes I have lost is a jungle suit of checked cloth, and, anticipating a ride back to our quarters early to-morrow, I did not bring any others, and now, as you see, they are all gone. I can- not dine at your house, or ride to Neapla in this condition.' ' Certainly not,' said I. * You can neither do the one nor the other — as magis- trate it is my duty to see that decency is not outraged in my district.' ' I suppose, then, it is your duty likewise to see that robberies of this nefarious kind are not committed with im- punity,' said he. ' Where did you put your clothes ?' I asked, mustering up all the gravity possible under the circumstances, in order to investigate the matter judicially. ' I put them all on this stone,' he answered, ' on which I am now sitting, together with two bathing AFTER-DINNER STORY. 201 sheets, left by my horsekeeper.' *Ancl where did you find the hat and the odd stocking ?' I asked again. ' Finding my clothes gone when I came out of the lake, about an hour ago I suppose, I searched on every side, at first supposing that some one was playing a very unpleasant practi- cal joke upon me ; not being able to find them, I returned into the water and took an additional swim, in the hope that they would be restored. Finding them still gone, however, when I again came out, I got annoyed, and shouted out lustily, but no one heard me. I searched vigorously eveiywhere in the neighbouring jungle, as far as I could safety penetrate in this condition, and at length I found, over there, my hat, and a httle further on, one stocking ; but more there was not, although I advanced considerabty fui'ther.' ' I have it,' I exclaimed ; ' the monkeys have been here, and have run off with the clothes ; they often play pranks of that kind, and, not being able to manage the huge pith hat, they abandoned it ; one of them must have dropped the stockmg.' ' Hang the monkeys ! ' exclaimed Lister, energetically ; ' but it is only a very slight consolation to know that your sagacity has dis- covered that fact, if it cannot do more.' ' And k3 202 AFTER-DINNER STORY. your watch ? ' I asked. ' My watch is, for- tunately, safe,' was the reply ; ' I put it on the flat branch of that tree, and there it is stUL' " A servant from the bungalow here interrup- ted our colloquy by informing us, as he stared, open-eyed, at Lister's appearance, that Mrs. Mouat had sent her compliments, and told him to say that dinner was ready. " ' Dinner ! ' groaned Lister, as he surveyed his forlorn condition, ' dinner ready, dished, perhaps, and I in this state !' " ' Bring down a suit of clothes from the bungalow,' said I to the servant, ' and tell the peons* to search the jungle on that side for the Captain's clothes.' " " ' Bring down a suit of clothes from the bungalow,' re-echoed Lister; ' whose clothes ?' ' Wliy, mine to be sure, ' I rephed ; ' you would not have Mrs. Mouat's, would you ?' " " It's all very laughable, I don't doubt, gen- tlemen," said Lister, again interrupting Mouat, and rising from his chair, '^but, by Jove, I never heard a man tell a simple anecdote with so much verbiage as Mouat. For my part he * Native police. AFTER-DINNER STORY. 203 gives me a headache, he talks so much. I'll go and join the ladies." So saying, the Captain left us, and Mouat proceeded with his story — " ' Bo you seriously think that I shall ever get your clothes on?' asked Lister, when the servant had gone, not a muscle of his coun- tenance betraying the shghest inclination to a smile. ' I really don't know,' said I, ' but we must try at all events. Something must be done.' ' True; something must be done, as you say,' he repeated ; ' and, besides, the dinner's ready, — spoilt by this time, I dare say,' and he brought down his open hand with startling energy upon his bare thigh. I endeavoured to keep my countenance still, but it was useless ; the Sreepah valley rung with my laughter as I contemplated the extraordinary pictm-e before me. Would that I were an artist, and I should commit it at once to canvas ! " The peons soon made their appearance, and commenced searching the jungle ener- getically for the missing garments, whilst I secured the watch. At length the servant re- turned with the suit of clothes, and, as Lister seized the pantaloons and held them up before him for inspection, I felt convinced at once 204 AFTER-DINNER STORY. that they would never encase those herculean limbs or that protuberant form. Lister sighed deeply as he looked at them, and shook his liead ominously. ' But the sliirt,' I suggested, ' why not put it on first?' ' 0, certainly,' said he, 'that must go on.' With some coaxing the shirt was insinuated over his ample shoul- ders, and his hands were got out at the proper extremities. True, the wrists and collar would not button, and the whole aifair scarcely reached beyond his hips, but, as he said, these were mmor inconveniences ; the important fact was, that he had a shirt on. " The pantaloons were essayed next. It was not without much insinuation, coaxing, and management that the shirt had been got into its natural position, but what shall I say of the persevering efforts made to drag the pantaloons into their proper places ! Could they have spoken they would doubtless have remonstrated, stating that they had never been intended to fit limbs double the size of their owner's, especially when the aforesaid limbs were quite wet, for, in his haste, Lister had forgotten to dry them properly before essaying the nether garments. It was utterly impossible for me to assist him in any way — the stern, grim air of determina- AFTER-DINNER STORY. 205 tion mtli which he tugged and pulled, and writhed and twisted the garment upon his limbs, and his limbs into the garment, would have been too much for the most imperturbable countenance that ever a man possessed. He was too intent upon his exertions, however, to heed me, and when one of the servants gently offered assistance, he knocked liim aside. ' Hurra ! hur-r-r-ra !' he shouted at length, as he seated himself once more, overcome with his indefatigable exertions, aud the big round drops coursing each other from his forehead. He had hallooed, however, before he was out of the wood; true, both his legs, quivering in their tight covering, were encased; and the feet were both apparent at the |)roper ends, but the unfortunate article of dress, straining almost to bm'sting in every stitch, was yet to be drawn up over the ample rotundity of the Captain's portly figure, and this I foresaw would be no joke to accomplish, if not absolutely im- possible. " At length, muttering ' dinner ' again, he re- sumed his exertions with a forced air of desperate calmness. This time I endeavoured to assist by dragging the pantaloons up. ' Stop ! stop !' shouted Lister ; ' easy, Mouat, 206 AFTER-DIXXER STORY. easy ; they're splitting.' They were splitting, and scarcely liad one thread gone when another followed it, till, notwithstanding the cessation of our exertions, it was very apparent that the two legs of the garment would, in a moment, be entirely separated the one from the other. Such was soon actually the case ; and Lister, groaning again, sat himself disconsolately down upon the stone to vent his disappointment and annoyance upon me, the servants, the pan- taloons, and the monkeys. ' These must be taken off again,' said I to him, anxious that the whole transaction were ended, for I felt hungry and exhausted with laughter. ' Taken off again !' he growled forth, in no very amiable key ; ' yes, I suppose they must ; a worse- made pair I never saw ; I wonder you wear such clothes.' " To put them on had been a matter of no Httle difficulty — to take them off was appa- rently impossible. The legs not having been properly dried, as I said, the pantaloons stuck to them with a tenacity, increased tenfold by the tightness with which they were stretched over the hmbs. There was this in favour of their removal, however, a circumstance not to be undervalued in such a position — that the AFTER-DINNER STORY. 207 legs of the j)antaloons had now completely parted company, and might therefore be taken off, one at a time. ' Gatchee, pull them off,' said I to the servant, whose exertions to assist Lister before had been so ill-requited. Gatchee squatted down in front of the huge figure on the stone, and catching a hold of one of the legs, attempted to drag its close bandage off it. He tugged and strained, and puffed and pulled, sometimes standing, sometimes kneehng, some- times squatting again, as Singhalese servant never had done before, but all to no purpose. The tenacious garment, so laboriously fixed in its position, resisted all efforts to be removed with a force and perseverance that completely belied Lister's statement that they were rotten — to this day he maintains that they could not have been a sound pair, or they would not have split as they did ! " Whilst Gatchee was thus pulling and straining to remove what had been got on with so much difficulty, one of the peons re- turned with the Captain's waistcoat, which he had found in the jungle, mforming us at the same time, that the monkeys, knowing they were pursued, were travelling, in an immense herd, rapidly away to the south-east, still obsti- 208 •AFTER-DINNER STORY. nately retaining possession of their unwonted booty. ' Why don't you throw something at them, you donkeys, and they will throw the clothes at you?' asked Lister, savagel}^, as he arrayed himself in the waistcoat which com- pletely hid many of the defects of the shkt, as it buttoned up almost to the throat. ' We tried that MaJiathma' said the peon, making sidewa3^s for the forest, for he did not like the expression of Lister's face — ' we tried that, Mahathma, and they would not throw anything down. The waistcoat cauo-ht in a branch of the tree by the arm-hole, and the monkey tore it a little in trying to pull it awa}^' ' Either the monkey that ran away with it, or the donkey that got it off the tree, tore it, I see,' said Lister, ' but I don't believe you pelted the scoundrels well, or else they M^ould throw them all at 3^ou.' ' They are far away in the forest, Mahathma,^ urged the peon, still making silently and stealthily for the jungle, ' and they can travel there faster than we can.' ' I shall put a bullet into every grinning jackanapes of them all that I can catch henceforth,' muttered Lister, sternly, * I have always spared them hitherto, but I shall not do so for the future — baboons, chimpanzees, orang otangs, or mon- AFTER-DINNER STORY. 209 keys, whatever name tliey may go under, it's all the same to me ; I'll pay them off' for this, some day.' " Another servant now made his appearance from the bungalow, bearing a fr-esh bundle of clothes, which we proceeded to investigate. Mrs. Mouat, doubtless informed of the difficulty wliich detained us, had discovered the only possible means of overcoming it — she had sent down a pair of my pyjamas,* and a dressing gown. It was strange we had not thought of these before, for the pyjamas were wide enough to go round three men of my bulk, and the dressing gown was ample and loose. ' Yes,' said Lister, a ray of light animating his coun- tenance, as I distended the wide pyjamas to their utmost, ' yes,' those look hopeful ; but I must have these off' first — here Gatchee, pull like a man ! and he seated himself for that purpose again. Gatchee pulled again more violently than ever, but as unsuccessfully, and Lister, irritated by these repeated mishaps and annoyances, put his foot against the unfortu- nate darkey's chest, and sent him headlong into the lake — ' there,' said the much-tormented, half-naked Captain, as the turbaned head dis- ♦ Sleeping trowsers, made full and wide, in Oriental fashion. 2J0 AFTER-DIXXER STORY, appeared in the water, — ' there, I'll teach you to grin, you coffee-faced monkey ; have you learned nothing better yet, under your worshipful master, than to laugh at his guests, when they get into misfortune?' Gatchee soon emerged from his involuntary bath unhurt, and made his way to the bungalow, not feehng disposed to offer his services to the much persecuted Captain any more. ' Quite right, Lister,' said I, apologeti- cally, seeing there was no harm done, ' the rascal had no right to grin at you — in fact there is nothing to laugh at : but how are we to remove these casings of which jour legs seem so tena- cious.' ' They must be ripped up,' said Lister, eagerly, the bright thought striking him at the instant, as he hastily surveyed the aspect of affairs. ' Ripped up, certainly,' said I, ' a capital idea,' and I took out my penknife forth- with. A few threads cut down the side, the rest speedily gave way, and a few seconds after we had thus dissected the unfortunate panta- loons. Lister was decently clothed in the pyjamus and dressing gown. ' Can I sit at yom' table in this condition ?' he asked in a la- clirymose tone, as he surveyed himself ' Cer- tainly, ' I replied, ' you'll do admirably now. You know we are not over-particular in the jungle.' AFTER-DINi!^ER STORY. 211 " And truly the figure he then presented was a strange one ! The dressmg-gown, loose and easy as it was for me, was straining in every stitch between the shoulders and down the arms, whilst such. was its tightness that it was absolutely impossible for him to put his arms straight down by his sides, so that they curved out hke the handles of some of those antique vases — ' the ears,' as they classically term them — which jut out semicircularly on either side. The sleeves reached more than half way between the elbow and the wrist, wliilst the slm*t was apparent an inch further. Round the portly person of the ill-used Captain the dressing- gown would not of course meet by several inches, ' but that,' said he, as he attempted it, ' is of Httle consequence, seeing that I have my own waistcoat on.' If the upper portion of his person, however, was ludicrous, the lower was infinitely more so. The pyjamas were by no means loose for him, and as they were well hoisted up to conceal the top under the waistcoat, they did not reach very far below the knee, leaving the rest of the leg exposed, for he had discarded the odd stocking, and was now endeavouring to walk in an ample pair of slippers. Jii:^ after-dinot:r story. " No sooner was the outer man tlius encased in the Lest way that circumstances would per- mit, than his thoughts, as I anticipated, turned upon dinner. ' The mutton will be done to rags,' said he, as he tramped vigorously towards the bungalow. ' That will be the fault of the monkeys, not of the cook,' said I. ' Monkeys — monkeys,' he repeated, ' I owe them one. Of all the shouting, roaring, jabbering, grin- ning, crawhng, jumping inhabitants of the forest, I hate them most. I always hated them. Thejr're the ugliest and nastiest ani- mals ahve.' ' To say nothing of their thieving propensities,' I added. ' Yes, to say nothing of their thieving propensities,' said he, ' but I'U pay them off. Not another reptile of them sliall escape me when I have a gun in my hand ;' and so saying he brought down his hand vehemently, as is his wont, upon his thigh. " A few twitches from the shoulder of the dressing-gown warned him that he must not be too energetic, or else the arms would part company, as the legs of the other garment had before. ' Miserably made clothes jow do wear in the jungle,' said he, turning his head to try if by any means he could see the threatened AFTEK-DINNER STORY. 213 danger ; and then brooding over his late mis- hap, and anticipating the coming diimer, he made his way in silence to the bungalow. Mrs. Mouat's gravity was a Httle upset when she first saw him, but once seated at dinner, all went off well, nor had so much injury been done to the viands as we had feared — the claret at all events, as he triumphantlj^ remarked, would not be spoiled hy waiting. His coat, torn almost to shreds, was brought in late in the evening hy the peons, but of none of the other articles missing could they discover a trace. Doubtless the monkeys had hidden them on finding themselves pursued. Next morning, therefore, Lister had to ride back to Neapla in nij pj'jamas, and an odd enough figure he cut in them on horseback." Mouat's strange narrative concluded, we rose to seek Lister and the ladies, but my im- agination was so busy with the various inci- dents that had been thus recently related, that I could pay but Httle attention to anything else, and once or twice when Mrs. Hofer was telling us of the sorrows of some poor Sing- halese in the neighboru'hood, who would have been starved to death had not she assisted them, I found myself grinning egregiously as 214 MOONLIGHT RIDE. I looked at Lister, and thought of his mis- fortunes, greatly to the astonishment, and sometimes to the indignation, of the fair nar- rator. It was late that night ere I turned my horse's head homewards, for our long moon- light ride. For a short distance my route lay with that of the party of Ruminacaddee, which was not much more than tlu'ee miles from Lanka, and, on leaving them, Fowler and I rode leisurely along conversing of many things, — the adventure of the snake, the misfortunes of Lister, and the worth and amiabihty of Mrs. Hofer. Adam's peak. 215 CHAPTEE VII. ADAM'S PEAK. " These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways, Draw out our miles, and make them wearisome." Richard II., act ii., sc. 3. There is, perhaps, no natural object in Ceylon that so powerfully arrests the attention of the visitor or traveller as the remarkable mountain called Adam's Peak. It can be seen clearly from all the south-western coast, and from a considerable distance at sea, ever pointing with its bare, insulated, cone-shaped sum- mit to the skies — sometimes clear and well- defined on the bright blue, or white, behind it, but more generally cloud-capped, and either altogether enveloped in its watery shroud, or only partially seen here and there, as if batthng manfully with its enemies. It is sacred to every class of the natives. 216 LEGENDARY HISTORY The Mohammedans, equally ^\dth the unedu- cated and ignorant Christians, heheving that the Grarden of Eden was situated in Ceylon, further assert that, on the summit of this mountain, Adam stood for a thousand years on one leg, as a penance, leaving behind him an impression of his foot in the granite rock. The Hindus, not to he l^ehind them in absm'dity, state that one of their legendarj?- kings or gods — a giant, called Eama, or Siva, for traditions differ — in making his wa)^ into India, put one foot on the summit of the peak, whilst he stepped out to Adam's Bridge, in the extreme north of the island, with the other, a distance of about one hundred and thirty miles, and so left the foot-impression on the summit which has been ever since so remarkable an attesta- tion, at once of his power and size. But the Budhists alone crowd to the top to worship there, notwithstanding all the dangers and I'atigues of the way ; and their story of course connects this strange foot-impression with the legendary liistory of their own great prophet. The genius of the place, says their tradition, having heard of Budha's arrival in Ceylon, went to him, and, worshipping, requested him to leave an impression of his foot on the moun- i OF Adam's peak. 217 tain of which he was the guardian, that it might be worshipped during the five thousand years his rehgion would last on earth. To induce the man-god to comply with his request, the crafty genius repeated at length the praises of the mountain. The flowers on its sides and near the summit, he compared to a magnificent garment and head-dress — the hum of the bees, as they sped through the air, laden with honey, to the music of lutes — the birds, to bells send- ing forth sweet chimes — the waving trees, agitated by the v/ind, to a band of dancers, x'^ll, he declared, acknowledged the supremacy of Budlia. The trees ofiered fruits and flowers to him ; the reptiles on the marshes, the fish in the streams, the birds on the branches, the elephants, leopards, bears, deer, monkeys, hares, and other animals in the jungle, all worshipped liim. Budha consented. He went througli the air with liis five hundred followers, and great was the concourse, and magnificent the assembly that crowded the mountain in con- sequence. The genius of the place, attended by thou- sands of similar spirits, with their queens, who made music, and carried flags and banners, and scattered about gold and gems, stood by VOL. I. L 218 PROJECTED ASCENT Budlia's right hand. The gods were all there — Sekra and Maha, Brahma and Iswara — aU inferior to the Budha — with their attendant trains, were there, " and like the rolling of the great ocean upon Maha Meru, or the Yugand- hara rocks, was the sound of their arrival." In the midst of the assembled spirits, Budha, looking towards the east, put his foot on the liard granite, and lo ! the impression was made — " a seal to show that Lanka, or Ceylon, is the inheritance of Budha, and that his re- Kgion ^viH here ilourish for ever."* I had determined, from the first moment that I saw Adam's Peak, when at Point de (iaUe, to ascend it, if the ascent were possible ; and, finding that it was so, that several pilgrims 3'early went up, although at considerable risk, I was determined, sooner or later, to make my way to the summit. Wlien the idle season had ar- I'ived on the estate — all the year's produce bagged and^ despatched, and nothing but the ordinary routine of weeding to be done, I found myself called off to Colombo by business — Hofer was there too, and we detennined toge- ther to ascend the Peak, before we returned to the jimgle. It was not much out of our * Abridged from the " Manual of Budhism," by K. S. Hardy. OF Adam's peak. 219 way, and a delay of a few days on tlie route would be amply recompensed by tbe novelty of an ascent, and the pleasure of spending a niglit upon the summit, to say notliing of the inspec- tion of the far-famed foot-impression itself. True, it was not the time when pilgrims usually made their way to the top from motives of piety ; but that did not disconcert us much, rather, perhaps, on the other hand added a zest to our anticipated enjoyment, as we should be alone, far away from all abode of humanity, after plmiging into the recesses of the moun- tain. It was therefore with considerable pleasure that we made our way together one morning about four o'clock, from the Fort of Colombo, mounted upon horses with •which we were thoroughly acquainted, and wdiich were equally well acquainted with us. My steed was the redoubted Uncle Toby, a small, black Arab, strong as an elephant, muscular to excess, and withal enjoying a spirit and energy that would have made him work till he dropped down dead, merely by the incitement of the voice, had any one been barbarous enough to make the trial. His figure reminded me of the por- traits of the Godolphin Arabian, whom he L 2 220 SETTING OUT FROM COLOMBO. resembled in his strange length and breadth of neck, in his glossy black coat, and in the tine curve of his back. Yet he was no racer, far from it ; merely a serviceable hack, of great strength and indomitable perseverance ; '^ go of all kinds in him," as Captain Lister would have expressed it, " up hill and down hill, in jungle or on cleared land, on an estate or in the streets of Kandy, go of every description, and good go too, though not absolutely the best, good in safety, in perseverance, in courage, though not the best in speed." Hofer's horse was a well-trained country ani- mal, admirably suited for the jungle, and by no means bad-looking ; so that we regarded ourselves as well mounted for the journey. Our few traps and considerable quantity of provisions were carried by ten coolies, headed by a guide, a Singhalese, who had been to the summit before, knew a Httle English, and was to act as cook during the expedition The coolies and the guide — the latter de- lighting in the euphonious appellation of Poon- chy — had been despatched to the first station the day before, and, on our arrival, we found Poonchy busily engaged in the mysteries of cooking ; he and the coolies occupying a large BREAKFAST ON THE KOAD. 221 bam-like building, which had been tastefully prepared for our reception by placing two three-legged chairs, obtained from the neigh - boui'ing head-man or village chief, near a non- descript board elevated on four sticks stuck into the earthen floor, which contrivance the aforesaid Poonchy dignified by the name and title of a " table." It appeared strange to us that they had put the table-cloths on the chairs instead of the table, but we learned on inquiry, that this was the head-man's contrivance to show " plenty honour to masters," as Poonchy expressed it. Having sufficiently admired these arrangements we washed and then sat down to breakfast, all the time exposed to the wondering or curious gaze of every man, wo- man, and child the little village contained, who crowded one side of the building on which the architect had forgotten to construct a wall, and pertinaciously remained there, not with - standuig Poonchy 's incessant abuse of them. It was useless talking to him; he was one of those hopeless individuals who will have their own way, feeling quite sure that whoever else may be wrong, they must be right. Breakfast dispatched, we set about making ourselves comfortable, and, for this purpose, 222 UNFORTUNATE MISHAP. Hofer took two of tlie chairs, the one to sit upon, the other for his feet, whilst I endea- vom-ed to make myself equally comfortable with a chair and the " table," an additional chair having been added to om' stock of furni- ture by the indefatigable Poonchy, as a " side- board." The endeavour however, to render ourselves more at ease was unsuccessful ; in a moment of thoughtlessness, Hofer, his feet resting on one chau', tilted himself back on the hind legs of the other, a position for which they were e\ddently not prepared, for, giving way, he and they sought the ground together. Nor did I fare better. The extraordinary contrivance which Poonchy dignified with the name of table, disdained the ignoble duty of supporting my feet, and no sooner did Hofer, who had been leaning against it on the opposite side to me disappear, than it gradually and gracefully descended after him. Our road, during our journey in the evening, lay through a fine sporting countiy. A few years have, I believe, made a great change in the district in the way of improvement, but in 1843, the neighbom-hood of Sitawaka was as wild as any tiger-hunter could desire. The leopards were more numerous perhaps in ALARM OF THE NATIVES. 223 other parts of the island, but every other species of game abounded in the countr}"^ tln'ough which we were journeying. Oiu- progress, therefore, it may be easily conceived, was by no means a rapid one, for as we had not very far to go, and had plenty of time in which to accompHsh our journey, we in- dulged in a little straggling shooting by the way. We were now approaching our destina- tion for the evening, and perceiving symptoms in the sky of a coming storm, pushed on our horses to get under shelter as soon as possible. A smart trot, however, brought us speedily up . to a company of natives, whom we soon recog- nized as our guide and coohes. They had started many hours before us, and we fondly anticipated that akeady preparations for dinner were far advanced. The cause of their deten- tion was speedily made apparent to us in the huge footmarks of an elephant which appeared to have recently passed along the road in the same direction as that in which we were travel- hng. There were numerous indications around, to prove that it was a rogue elephant, and hence their alarm and hesitation. One who has not witnessed it can scarcely have an idea 224 WILD ELEPH-YXT. of the dread with which a native of Ceylon is affected when under the impression that a rogue elephant is in his vicinity. A herd of wild elephants is comparatively harmless, and I have frequently passed within a short distance of them unmolested. On horseback the sohtary traveller is perfectly safe, though he may accidentally find himself in the middle of a herd; and even the pedestrian runs little chance of molestation under similar circumstances ; but with a rogue the case is altogether different. Why this particular de- signation was applied to them I never could discover, it being quite inadequate to convey any idea of the mad and savage fuiy of the animal. The " rogue " appears to be one banished, for some misdemeanour probably, from his herd — generally, but not invariably, a male — and from that moment devoting himself to the slaughter of all animal hfe and the destruction of all property tliat comes within his reach. Hence, whilst the natives have little dread of travelling on a road on which the footmarks of numerous elephants are apparent, they are almost paralyzed by fear when they find the recent traces of a solitary wild prowler on their PREPARATIONS FOR ATTACK. 225 path. To a European these traces would pro- bably never be perceptible. He might travel across them for days, and never observe them ; but to the quick eye of the natives the huge footmark is at once apparent ; the direction in which the animal travels is discovered in a moment, and indications at once sought to ascertain the fact of its being alone or in company — a rogue or tame. The halting of our coolies was, therefore, at once accounted for, although they had no hesi- tation to advance with us, feeling safe in our horses and rifles. Even a rogue elephant will scarcely attack a man on horseback, unless wounded or greatly enraged, such is the natural antipathy between his species and that of the horse- — an antipathy wliich is quite reciprocal. Having carefully loaded our rifles with zinc bullets — the lead being often too soft for the forehead of the elephant — we proceeded with increased alacrity, neither Hofer nor myself displeased at the prospect of an adventure. Having judiciously made all necessary dispo- sitions and arrangements in case of an attack, and determined on our line of conduct, we pur- sued the train of thought until we were can- vassing what was to be done with the monster's L 3 226 DIXNER DELAYED. tusks after he had fallen, when the huge foot- steps branched off from our path deep mto the jungle, whither, at that late hour, it would have been madness to pm'sue our intended antagonist. Our guide was certain that we had not seen the last of him, declaring that he had only left the road to skht the village, which we were approaching, and that we should probably hear or see more of him next day. Nothing particularl}^ interesting occurred at the little village where we passed the night, save that our good humour was not increased by the delay which attended the preparations for dinner — a delay occasioned by the stoppage of the coohes on their road, but which, to our astonishment and indignation, we found was increased by Poonchy's determination to have his own dinner before he provided us with ours — liis only excuse being, that such was always " black man's custom." Next morning we departed in excellent spirits, more anxious than ever for a glimpse at, and an encounter with, our disturber of the previous evening. Nor were om* wishes vain. The coohes, with our guide, had as usual gone on ahead in the morning, and we were waging SHOOTING A DEER, 227 a desultory warfare against the few jackals and hares which we occasionally met, when a re- markahly fine spotted deer crossed our path, and rushed into the adjoining forest. Our horses were fresh, the forest was open, and neither of us could resist the temptation of dashing after it, for it had appeared, and disap- peared so rapidly as to prevent our having a shot. Five minutes hard riding brought us to the foot of a hUl, comparatively destitute of vegetation ; up which, straight before us, the deer, which was a large noble one, was rapidly fleeing. We pulled our horses up on a spot commanding a full view of the entire hill side, our i-ifles, loaded with ball in both barrels, being in our hands. Hofer fired as he sat, whilst I, less confident of my horse's steadiness, jumped from his back, and fired somewhat more leisurelj'-. The animal received both balls — one in his foot, the other close to the spine- — and, staggering on a few paces, fell dead under- a magnificent mangoe tree. Our grooms were speedily at our heels, and, in com- pany with them, we ascended the hill, near the summit of which the deer had fallen, at once to inspect our prize and to obtain a view of the surrounding country. The animal was a beau- 228 ATTACK OF THE ELEPHANT. tiful specimen of the class to which he belonged — large in size, comparatively speaking, that is, about the size of a full-grown goat, and covered with the most variegated and lovely variety of spots upon his glossy coat. As we were not likely to have anything better for dinner at Ratnapoora, we resolved to have liim conveyed there, and, for that purpose, ordered the grooms to carry him to the nearest station, where two extra cooHes could be pressed into our service. This matter concluded, we leisurely skirted the hills, proceeding towards the summit, and advancing in the same direction as the road which wound round its base. From our new position we had a fine view of the country around. Tlie coolies were just visible at a considerable distance a-head, fear or laziness evidently preventing them from advancing with any rapidity. We were on the point of mounting to resume our journey, when Hofer called my attention to a strange commotion in the jungle at a httle distance from the cooUes, who were tlyiug from it in all directions. In another moment we saw a large tusk elephant emerging from the thicket, and making directly i'or the little part}^ DISMAY OF THE NATIVES. i2d A more formidable tiling than a charge from an enraged elephant, can scarcely l»e imagined. His trunk elevated in the air, whilst he trumpets forth loudly his rage or hatred, he shuffles his huge carcase along at a pace more rapid than any one would conceive possible when regarding the unwieldy bulk of the animal alone. The bushes bend before liim as he advances — the branches of the trees snap off with sharp, rapid reports — the animals in the neigbouring jungle, alarmed at the danger, hoot, whoop, scream, cry, bellow, and roar to the utmost, in alarm or in anger, and the whole welkin rings with the commotion. Our baggage was of course flung down in all directions by the coohes as they made for the nearest trees. The elephant paused for a moment over the articles strewed in his way, but only for a moment, and hurhng a port- manteau high into the air, advanced as before, bellowing madly. The natives are, of course, expert climbers, so that, ere he approached, all the coolies had made their way into the trees, and appeared to be perfectly safe — all but one, who had still a leg within reach of the monster's trunk when he approached the tree in which the unfortunate man, paralyzed by 230 COOLIE KILIiED BY fear, no doubt, was climbing. To tbe others who siuTOTiiided him, and to us from the Ijrow of the neigbouring hill, it appeared that the man was sufficiently high in the tree to prevent Ills being caught and dragged down by the infiuiated animal. Wliether he was so caught, however, or was only struck and fell through excessive fear, certain it is we saw him fall backwards on the uplifted head of the ele- phant ! In a moment the body of the unfor- tunate man was whirling high in the air, and at length descended with a frightful thump upon the ground, only to be trampled imme- diately afterwards into a shapeless mass ! His success in tliis mstance, which was all the work of a moment or two, appeared but to increase the savage fury of the monster. He rushed at the tree nearest to him, into which two of the httle band had climbed, his broad forehead coming with thundering force upon the ti'unk, and shaking it m every twig — he stiiick and dug at it with Ms tusks — he grasped it Avith his trunk — retreated to a httle distance and made another assault with his broad, heavy forehead, butting, as a ram would do against an antagonist — again was the tree shaken, every leaf quivering violently, but no sign of THE DTFURIATED ANIMAL. 231 tumbling about it, a slight list to one side was the only percej)tible result — its occupants holding on for life all the time, and shouting violently in the extremity of their fear, or in the vain hope of frightening the animal away. Wliilst all tliis was proceeding we were reloading the discharged barrels of our rifles, and, having mounted, drew ofl" the attention of the elephant from the cooHes, by shouting, as we awaited him on om- vantage ground, on the brow of the hill. No sooner did the enemy perceive us than he turned away from the tree, which he seemed intent on bringing down, and made directly for the spot on which we were drawn up ready to receive him — our grooms having climbed high into the largest tree in om' vicinity. We were aware that firing at random, or at any great distance, was useless, and that our only chance of bringing him down lay in the accuracy of our aim and his proximity when we fixed. We therefore awaited his approach with what calmness we could. Before the elephant had come within range, however, *' Uncle Toby," my excellent steed, took fright at the dreadtul pictm-e before him, and, starting off, bore me, with frightful rapidity, down the steepest part of the hiU's 232 SUCCESSFUL FIRE. side. Wliat became of Hofer I did not then know, althougli I heard the clear ring of his rifle behind me as I was borne triumphantly down the bank. His horse, as I subsequently learned, had behaved admirably well, never swerving in the least until he had fired. His ball, we afterwards discovered, had entered the left eye, and must have given excruciating pain, but was not fatal. Hofer then wheeled round his horse, and followed me down the dechvity, aware that the elephant, from the great weight of its head, is unable to go down a steep hill with any rapidity. There was this difference, however, between us, that wliilst Uncle Toby had the bit clenched in his teeth and was perfectly unmanageable from excessive fear, Hofer' s horse was completely in hand, and he could do with him w^hat he pleased. The elephant laboured after us, blood streaming from his eye, and liis whole appearance indi- cating excessive fury and intense pain. When I had now nearly reached the base of the hill — our enemy having been left far behind — my horse, in his wild gallop, threw his fore-legs into a httle swamp, where they sank deeply. I was thrown far away over his head, whilst he rolled helplessly on his side. I was not DEATH OF THE ELEPHANT. 233 hurt, but the loss of a moment might have been the loss of my life, so, jumping up, I grasped my rifle more firmly than ever, and stood upon the defensive. A moment of intense interest to both of us succeeded — life or death hmig upon the issue, for the elephant, having witnessed the accident, left the pursuit of Hofer, and directed his steps towards me. There might have been time to climb into a tree, but I did not make the attempt — my whole mind being on fire with the earnest desire to bring down the monster. Hofer, seeing what had happened, drew up his horse on the hill's side — the elephant, still ad- vancmg, soon came in a line with him, his left, and now blind side, being turned towards him. Seeing that he was not observed, Hofer dis- mounted, and proceeded to take aim imme- diately behind the shoulder-blade, as the animal laboured heavily along. Precisely at the moment when I discharged both barrels full into the broad forehead, Hofer's ball pene- trated liis side. A momentary check to the animal's progress seemed the only result of this double fire at the instant — he advanced twenty paces or so further, and then fell head- long to the earth, turning over gradually on 234 NERVOUS EXCITEMENT. his right side, and beating the ground ineffec- tually ^vith his trunk. Uncle Toby had only just left tlie spot a few minutes before to scamper ^dldly away on the road that we had come, where the elephant now lay extended before us, an occasional conTulsive twitch of one of his legs or of his trunk the only failing symptoms of life. The huge mass of his body stood higher than my chest as he lay thus helplessly where he had fallen, making an occasional but ineffectual effort to hft his head off the marsh in which it was half im- bedded. IMost people, I beHeve, feel danger affect the nei^es to the greatest degree after it has passed. I am sm^e it was so with me. When the enormous brute was charging rapidly down the hill, when there seemed no chance of escape by flight, and the slightest accident might have been death — under these circumstances my nerves were so strung to their greatest tension that there was no agitation. I was as able then to take advantage of the slightest turn in my favour, as if our sport had been most harmless, and we had been hunting a hare instead of an elephant. But now that the peril was past, now that the body of the TALES OF TILE NATIVES. 235 huge animal lay extended before me in all the impotence of death, a sense of the danger I had been in rushed 'upon me with redoubled force, and I was amazingly agitated. It may be easily unagined with what plea- sure we added the tusks to our trophies, and with what self-gratulation and laudation we Hstened calmly to the tales which Poonchy had collected or invented of the numerous de- predations made in the neighbourhood by our slaughtered foe — of the lives lost, of the planta- tions destroyed, the trees uprooted, the terror inspired, and the dangers to which travellers were exposed — all done or caused, according to Poonchy's account, by the animal of which we had just rid the country. Nor, strange to say, although at other times we regarded Poonchy as an unconscionable bar, did we perceive at the moment anything absurd or unlikely in his assertions — nay, we were quite wining "for that occasion only," to swallow all he gave us, however hard the pabulum might subsequently prove of digestion. At Eatnapoora we were obhged to leave our horses — Uncle Toby having been recovered only after great labour and a day's loss — as the rest of our journey was to be performed on 236 RATIS'APOORA. foot. Tlie principal dangers wliicli we antici- pated for the future were swollen torrents, precipitous rocks, and the stoppage of the pro- vision supplies, by the accidents to which the coolies were as liable amongst the mountains as ourselves. We were now at the base of the extraordinary mountain hallowed by the super- stitions of so many different races and religions, and as its vast sides and conical top were made more apparent by our proximity, and were better defined to the gaze, the desire to attain tlie summit became all the stronger and more intense. No village can be more pictm-esquely situated than Eatnapoora, " the city of dia- monds," as the name imports. Built on irre- gular hilly ground, sloping down on one side to a fine river, the Kalany, and on the other into an extensive valley, of which there is an excellent view from almost every portion of the town, it is itself in a very amphitheatre of mountains, large and small. Its principal height crowned by an old fort, long since deserted by the mihtaiy, and handed over to the district judge for a court, and to the mis- sionaries for a chapel — there is something venerable about its character, at the same time that the extreme beauty of its situation makes CROSSING THE KALAXY. 237 that in it remarkable and interesting which elsewhere, perhaps, would be common-place or even ngly. . Unfortunately the day after our arrival at Eatnapoora was a very Avet one, and the con- sequence was that every little stream on our road was considerably swollen. The first we crossed was the Kalany Eiver, that which flows into the sea, near Colombo, and we found it in one part of the ford, near the left bank, much deeper than we had anticipated. Wading tlirough the water was the onlj method of crossing available, and, for some time after we had left the Eatnapoora side, it was shallow enough, although raging rapidly on, and covered with white foam. When we came into the deepest part of the bed, however, it was with difficulty that we could keep our long sticks fixed at the bottom of the stream to serve as a support and assistance ; such was the violence with which the stream rushed on. Our coolies managed to support each other across with admirable tact — their bundles slung on bamboos raised on their heads, each bamboo being carried on the heads of two men, one at each end. We were obliged to put up for the night in a miserable shed, at a wild place called 23S IXCONVEXIENCES CAUSED BY Ginnemallee, and as it rained during tlie night wo were plentifully bedewed, tlirough oui' half- thatched roof, whilst, from the open sides, the fine rain heat in too copiously for our comfort. Nor did the next day's traveUing make amends for the discomfort of the preceding night's lodging. "We had no sooner set out than we found ourselves assailed on all sides by one of the greatest plagues in Ceylon — the leeches. The previous rain had moistened the soil and brought them out in hundreds on our path. Every portion of the ground, nay even the vegetation was ahve with them — they were to be seen leaping from the stones or dried branches in every direction, fidl of life and vigour. Few who have not practically ex- perienced it can have any idea of the annoy- ance caused by these disgusting reptiles. The le^ch-craiters, made of closelv-woven cotton- clotli, and tied over the pantaloons at the knee, defend the feet from their assaults — without these, the legs would be covered with them, for they will penetrate any ordinary description of stocking, and find their way above and be- neath any ordinary boot. But on the entire distance between Grinnemallee and Pallabatula, the last-inliabited district on the ascent, they THE NTJMEEOUS LEECHES. 239 abounded, not on the ground only, as is usual in tlie coffee estate, but on the bushes and branches of the trees, so that as we brushed past them in the narrow jungle path, we were literally covered with tlie blood-thirsty vermin. At every little bungalow, by the road-side at wliich we stopped, we were obliged to make a general inspection of our persons to rid them of the enemy — nor was this inspection a plea- sant operation, seeing that it had thrice to be made in the presence of a miscellaneous crowd of men, women, and children, who pertina- ciously maintained their positions around the open sheds, dignified on the ascent with the name of " bungalows," and in which we di- vested ourselves 'of om* clothing and engaged in the disagreeable search. However, it was necessary to do so and there was no help for it ; if the female portion of the population in the wild recesses of Adam's Peak were lost to de- cency, it was not our fault. Often did we discover six or eight of the leeches forming a radiated circle around a single point, like the spokes of a miniature wheel, all filling amazingly at oiu* expense — at first, thin as fine threads, but gradually dis- tending till the swollen body could scarcely 240 BITE OF THE LEECH. . remain attached by the head. Nor was the detaching of them so simple a matter as many would suppose. To have pulled them off might have produced sores, and caused a considerable flow of blood from the wound for a time ; we were obhged to sprinkle salt upon them, before they would voluntarily rehnquish their hold, and not even then without giving a sharp twitch to the sufferer. Their first bite, on attaching themselves to the skin, was imper- ceptible, so insinuatingly was the proboscis introduced, so that the indi^'idual, honoured by their attentions, was not aware of the at- tack until the cold clammy body, distended almost to bursting, rolled about heavily on the skin. It is a consolation to know that they do sometimes burst themselves outright, as I have been informed, although I vv'iis never a witness of the fact. It was with delight we found that the so- called " rest-house," at Pallabatida, the last inhabited station on the ascent, was surrounded by a sandy gravel which precluded the leeches from making their way into it, and that but one more search for them under our clothes was required to render us free from this plague for a time. Having refreshed ourselves after 1 A day's rest. 241 our fatigue by a luxurious loll and a dinner of rice and fowl curry, the best that the culinary talent of Poonchy could supply, to which some slices of ham and some bottles of Allsopp gave the necessary European character to render it satisfactory, we determined to recruit our strength and spirits by a day's rest to prepare us for the more arduous task which still awaited us, Poonchy having kindly informed us that the road yet to be travelled, was " plenty more bad " than that which we had come. A wihara, at Pallabatula, contains the cover of the sacred footstep on the summit, placed there during the period of pilgrimage by the wily priests annually, to prevent the too curious eyes of the faitliful from discovering what a humbug the far-famed foot-impression is in reality. It was a large metal Hd, something of the shape of a foot, the toes being distinctly marked on it, the whole covered over in a gaudy extravagant manner, with glass diamonds and gilded ornaments, more ghttering and glaring than beautiful. The scene, as we sur- veyed this cover, was one well suited for the artist. In the large, gloomy, half-lighted temple, the monstrous foot- cover (five feet long) lay upon the ground — two priests of VOL. I. M 242 IMPRESSIVE SCENE. Bucllia on one side with yellow robes, bare heads, and shaven crowns, reverentially look- ing down upon it as the great treasure of their temple, and an honour to themselves as its guardians ; at the other end, we, the two Eu- ropeans, from a far-off isle of North- Western Europe, surveying the same object with far different thoughts and impressions ; whilst a crowd of natives gazed in through the open door, obstructmg the little light which gained admission there, and regarding the whole scene with religious awe. Not a word was spoken — in silence the priests stood, their eyes fixed on the sacred covering — in silence we stood op- posite to them, struck with its great size, and the glitter caused in the obscurity by its nu- merous ornaments — in silence the people with- out strained their necks and eyes to catch a glimpse of it. A scene like that, short lived though it was, lives in the memory with a ro- buster life than a thousand incidents of a more exciting or more animated character. As the period of pilgrimage approaches, this covering is conveyed, with great ceremony, to the sum- mit, where it remains upon the foot-impression till the last batch of pilgrims has departed. For the rest of the jesn it is kept in the centre AN UNTOWAED ACCIDENT. 243 of the largest room at the temple of PaUabatula in gloom and silence — the door never opened save to admit a noiseless priest to dust the apartment, or to exhibit, to prying tourists like ourselves, the holy treasure. The same day that we inspected the cele- brated cover, we went out shooting, to provide a few birds for dinner, and, unfortunately for the success of our expedition, whilst Hofer was crossing a httle ravine, a splinter of iron-wood penetrated his canvas shoes and leech gaiters, and wounded his foot so severely, that he was obliged to give up all idea of making his way to the summit. The accident was not of so serious a character as to excite alarm in our minds for its ultimate consequences, but it was evident his foot required rest and care to pre- vent inflammation, and, as it was impossible to have him carried to the summit, greatly to his mortification and my disappointment, it was absolutely necessary for me to proceed alone, if I wished to reach the object of our journey. The following morning, therefore, we parted, I taking with me six coolies and the guide, for the conveyance of cold ham, bread, cuiTy and rice, a bottle of brandy, some beer, and such warm clothes as I was likely to require, not M 2 244 DANGERS OF forgetting of course my trusty old rifle and ammunition. Om' road lay directly up the steep side of a bleak-looking hill that towered far above the puny village ; two days before it had been the bed of a raging torrent, that had swept away every particle of mould and earth, leaving nothing but the huge rocks, bleak and grim-looking, jutting forth from the moun- tain's side, whilst the thickest jungle grew on either hand, and was often so interlaced over our heads as to render the path quite dark. Climbing up this " road," for it could not be called walldng, was laborious in the extreme ; it consisted in incessant clambering over the smooth time and water worn faces of the projecting rocks, sometimes on hands and feet, sometimes by the aid of the overhanging or over- arching boughs above, whilst frequently this very vegetation so useful at one time, was the cause of our greatest difficulties at another ; the interlacing foliage being often so near the hill-side as to prevent our progressing, until we had cut or torn away a portion of it. I now discovered why the wary Poonchy had in- sisted upon each coolie having the smallest possible load, for it was not long before we all exhibited signs of great fatigue, and I began THE ASCENT. 245 to fear that the coohes might give up in despair. In addition to the difficulties of the way which I have enumerated, it must be remembered that we were constantly exposed to the danger of meeting with wild animals, and had we so encountered a herd of elephants for instance, coming down the mountain in single file, I know not what we should have done, or how indeed we could escape destruc- tion at all, unless we succeeded in driving them from our path. As we proceeded the coohes and guide kept constantly shouting out at the highest pitch of their voices, in the hope of scaring elephants, leopards, bears, and wolves away ; especially those in the rear, whose shouts were ever the loudest and shrillest, for those in front had some confidence in my rifle, and as I never lost sight of them whilst I clambered on, they felt comparatively safe. St. Pierre, I thought, might have taken tliis ascent to Deabetme instead of the black moun- tain of Bember, as an illustration of misfor- tune. " Misfortune is hke the black mountain of Bember," says he, " at the extremity of the glowing kingdom of Lahore, whilst you are mounting you see nothing before you but sterile rocks, but when you have attained the 246 EXCESSIVE FATIGUE. summit you see the sky over your liead and the kingdom of Cashmere at your feet." Bem- ber cannot be worse than Adam's Peak, and I am siu'e that the skies and valleys of Ceylon will bear comparison with those of Cashmere. Two hours of this excessive fatigue brought us to a small empty bungalow, only four miles from Pallabatula, situated on a little level plain that lay directly in our way. A herd of wild elephants were amusing themselves on this plain. I did not ventm^e to distiu'b them for two reasons, first I was very tired, and secondly, I was afraid of another hfe paying the forfeit of our curiosity. Wlien we had occupied the bungalow, and the guide was busy with the preparation of breakfast, they slowly left the plain one after the other, as if recognizing our superior right to occupy it. Before breakfast was ready, I had fallen into a sound sleep, so overcome was I with the fatigue of the morning's travel, and very shortly after the meal had been dispatched, and I had refreshed myself with a contem- plative cheroot, I was again " in the arms of Mm-phy,"* (as Paddy poetically expressed it.) Before four o'clock in the afternoon our * Anglice— Morpheus. FIRST VIEW OF THE SUJIMIT. 247 journey was resumed on a road of a precisely similar description to tliat we had traversed in the morning — Poonchy having kindly in- formed me that we were now in the district most noted for leopards. A wilder region, I fancy, could scarcely be found in nature. Steep after steep of rocky acclivities was to be sm*- mounted. To om' right, at no very considerable distance, rose the mysterious Peak itself, wliilst on its summit could be faintly discerned the wooden temple wdiich Budhistic piety had long ages before erected over the sacred foot- impression. Like a child's Swiss cottage, or a fairy -like toy, did the elegant httle structure appear, as we got a ghmpse of it occasionally through some natural clearing in the woods. Behind us, spread out a large jungle-filled valley, over which the clouds and their sha- dows chased each other as a gleam of the sun occasionally broke through the gloom around. Many a cloud did we see floating near us, some above, some beneath, for we were now at an altitude of between four and five thousand feet, and the nimbi were numerous in our vicinity. Here all was nature in her wild, rude, ele- mental simplicity, no trace of man or of his works within our utmost ken, save the baby- 248 UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS. like temple perched on tlie extreme summit; even the very road itself was scooped out of the eternal liill's side by torrents ! Tliree miles of this travelling, occupying fully two hours, brought us to Deabetme, where a stone bungalow, without doors, which owed its erection to the piety and benevolence of some early king, received us. Here we were obliged to take up our quarters for the night, and more miserable and thorouglily comfort- less quarters could not well be found in Ceylon or out of it. Both Poonchy and the coolies were anxious to push on, regarding the station as unlucky ; but as there was no better bun- galow to be met with as far as the summit, I overruled their objections. The house which we occupied was situated in the centre of a small piece of cleared land, encompassed by thick jungle, which descended steeply on three sides, and on the fourth spread out into a small irregular plain, through wliich the road wound to an adjoining ravine. Wlien we reached the station, heavy masses of black clouds were forming round the hill on all sides of us. We were in the very centre of the rain- cloud, and everything about us was damp, cold, and com- fortless. The loud " hoo-hoo " of a large species UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS. 249 of monkey might be distinctly heard in our vicinity ; occasionally the growl of a leopard would reach our ears, shrill, sharp, and threat- ening ; whilst more frequently the call of the elephant would boom forth from the surround- ing jungle. These were the great guns amongst the incessant small-arms' fire of birds and jackals. So dense was the watery vapour around, that all om- efibrts to kindle a fire were unsuccessful. Poonchy's fiint and steel were useless, as, not- withstanding his most strenuous exertions, the tinder would not catch the spark. I speedily secured a light by means of a httle gunpowder ; but a light was not sufficient. An old newspaper would bm-n at Deabetme as elsewhere, because it had been in my pocket previously ; but the wood seemed to have lost its combustible properties completely. So saturated was every tiling w4th the enveloping mist, that dried leaves smoked only, and the wood followed their example ; but no bright cheerful blaze could be extracted from either, nor was it possible to warm either the provisions or ourselves by means of the smoke, however dense. We had not taken any wood with us, it being usual for parties stop- ping in these sheds to leave a few boughs behind M 3 250 UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS, them for their successors, after 'they have used all the store which they find in them. The firewood was there, and the fire obtainable ; but after using large quantities of gunpowder and paper to no purpose, we were obliged to give up the attempt in despair. I looked upon our want of success as a matter that bore solely upon our dinner ; but Poonchy insisted upon it that our safety was at stake as well, for that, in our doorless edifice, the only security we could have, during the long hours of darkness, against snakes, bears, leopards, or even a rogue elephant, was a bright fire — an object which, when blazing in the darkness, eiffectually scares away the most daring of them. The prospect of passing the night, therefore, as we were, was a miserable one enough, to say notliing of the danger ; and, however good cold ham and bread and beer may be in their proper places, one feels that, with the air around satu- rated with moisture, the seats and clothing wet, the wind cold and raw, they are decidedly out of place. Yet pass the night there we must, for darkness had already set in, and it would have been madness to have attempted to travel in either direction under those cu'cum- stances. UNCOIVIFORTABLE QUARTERS. 251 Nothing remained but to make the best dis- positions we could for the night. To block up the numerous doorways was impossible, for we had nothing with wliich to do so ; and, as we examined our involuntary lodging more care- fully, we found abundant evidence that the place was frequently visited by wild animals. In one corner I discovered a heap of bones, one of wliich was so remarkably hke a human thigh-bone, that the very handling of it gave me an uncomfortable creeping feeling, as if I already felt by anticipation the gnawing of a leopard, pohshing off my own. I fancy it must have originally belonged to a monkey : but at the time I certainly thought it was part of a human skeleton, and with that pleasant con- viction I laid myself down for the night. The coolies crowded into a corner, and lay there huddled together, wet and shivering. I put my rifle at my head, leaning against the wall, and kept a good substantial walking-stick, which had considerably aided my ascent, by my side, to be used in case the rifle hung fire, wliich, from the state of the atmosphere, was but too Hkely to take place. My couch con- sisted of a number of spHt bamboos, interlaced together by strong creepers taken from the 252 UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS. jungle, the whole supported, as usual, upon four posts stuck into the damp floor. Suppose an ordinary table, with a number of sharp grooves running lengthways from end to end, a multitude of cords bound round it, and plenty of water sprinkled over it, recently wiped off, and you have a tolerably accurate idea of my couch. On my person, wrapped up in a warm plaid, I kept my ammunition, and, thus pre- pared, lay down, not to sleep, but to wait for the morning. It was almost as dark a night as ever brooded over the heavens. Not a star could be seen in the deep blackness that enveloped us on every side. Opposite to the bamboo couch on which I lay, half-reclining, half-sitting, was a small hole in the wall wliich fronted me, evidently intended, originally, for a window; there was scarcely light enough abroad to enable me to distinguish this aperture at all. When I had lain down, it was, of course, with the intention of not sleeping — indeed, I had slept so much after the severe fatigue of the morning that I had but httle desire for it. In order to aid me, however, in keeping my resolution, I placed my brandy-bottle on the ground, at the head of my couch, having filled it with water, so as to make NIGHT ALARM. 253 very stiff grog of the contents. But, notwith- standing all the sleep I had had the previous day ; notwithstanding the energy thrown into me by the contents of the bottle ; notwith- standing the dangerous position I was in, I found myself soon nodding at the little window opposite. Five or six times had I roused my- self, and endeavoured to shake off the sleepy god, who was fast seizing upon me, and as I did so, at long intervals, I found that the little window was each time becoming more and more distinct, and that the stars were beginning to make their way through the thick blackness without. At length I dozed off into a half- waking, half-sleeping condition, in which I must have continued for some time — that state in which the soul does not wholly resign her office, but performs it somewhat heavily. I was aroused from my lethargy by a scraping, stealthy, crawHng sort of sound in my vicinity. It was evidently produced by some animal on the ground — I had little doubt at the moment that it was a leopard, or one of those horrid brown bears, of which I had heard so much, and I began to think that a second life would be lost in this ill-fated expedition. I could not at first determine from the sound in 254 NIGHT ALARM. what direction the animal was proceeding, but I concluded, after a little, that he was in the neighbourhood of the coolies, and from their heavy breathing, I further concluded that they were asleep. If one of the party was to lose his life, I certainly should have preferred one of the coohes being the individual to myself. My hand was on my rifle, but to fire into the corner would have been madness, to shout out and wake them, useless or worse, for the ani- mal might then feel himself called on to attack — so I awaited, with what coolness I might, the result. Slowly and stealthily, I heard the ani- mal, with great distinctness, crawling from the coohe-quarter in the direction of the little window opposite me. A thousand thoughts flashed rapidly through my mind as I listened, with every nerve strung to its utmost tension, to the sound, peering eagerly, but fruitlessly, into the gloom within the building. At length he neared the aperture opposite, and, as he passed it, a sudden jerk upwards threw his head full into my field of vision, that is, the window. It was not the head of a leopard, nor of a bear, nor of a monkey, though to this last it bore most resemblance, but the head of a man, and, of course, of one of my own PILFERING COOLIE. 255 coolies, for there were no other human beings nearer than Pallabatula, seven miles distant. EeHnquishing the grasp of my rifle, I seized my walking-stick noiselessly, and awaited the result, as yet perfectly ignorant of the fellow's intentions, and unable, indeed, to form any rational prognostication of them. The cer- tainty that it was a man, and, besides, only a Singhalese ! was a great relief, and I breathed more freely. It must be remembered that all this time the usual nocturnal din of the jungle was going on outside with unabated fury, and yet so strangely were the nerves affected, that every movement in the bungalow was perfectly distinct to my ears. I followed the man's motions as if by instinct, as he slowly and stealthily crawled round my couch, and it was not till I heard the shaking of the fluid in my brandy-bottle, that I became aware of his intentions. I brought my stick down heavily upon his back at the moment, uttering some exclamation as I did so. He roared out lustily, and, miserahile dictu, let fall the bottle. His cry, loud and piercing, awoke his brethren. They, doubtless, fancying a dozen rogue elephants were upon them, shouted as loudly in chorus — the whole bungalow rung 256 TUMULTUOUS SCENE. witli cries as they still huddled closely together, their fears, probably, increased a thousand fold by finding one of their number absent. He, for his part, lay where he had fallen, still crying as if a wild beast were devouring him. I shouted out, I spoke in English and in Sing- halese, I reasoned, I intreated, demanded, nay, I verily beHeve, I swore at them ; but, for a time, without avail. Those in the corner evi- dently thought their companion was aheady a meal for some one, and he who lay near my couch probably conceived that I was threaten- ing him for the loss I had sustained. At length he made his way to his fellows ; they shrieked distractedly as he touched them ; but, after a little, the tumult subsided, and I was heard. I explained to Poonchy (whose voice had been clearly and distinctly recognisable througrhout the entire commotion as one of the loudest of the shouters), the cause of the scene, and he, with many contemptuous allusions to their cowardice, explained the matter to them. The moon was now rising over the top of the peak — the vapoury cloud had passed away — our bungalow was soon full of hght — we tried the firewood again, and, after some trouble, succeeded in obtaining a blaze, under the genial influence ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN. 257 of which we all slept soundly tiH the morning ; visions of the broken brandy-bottle, as it lay scattered over the ground beside my couch, the precious liquid all spilt, alone troubled my re- pose. The journey of the ensuing morning did not greatly differ from that of the preceding day, save that it was of a more varied character. In some places we were descending for a short time, instead of ascending — at others, we were obhged to clamber over the faces of almost per- pendicular rocks of great altitude. One of these rocks is between fifty and sixty feet high, and its ascent would be impossible, were it not for steps which some of the early kings caused to be cut over the entire face. At length I stood at the foot of the extraordinary cone which forms the summit of the mountain. It rises from the surrounding range like a huge sugar-loaf, two hundred feet high — rocky, and bleak, and stern, with a few hardy and stunted plants of temper- ate climates chnging to its sides. The air was dehghtfuUy cool and refreshing — the view around was magnificent, and, right in front of us, as we eat our morning's meal on a Httle grassy plot, by the side of a brawHng stream, rose the mass of rock, on the top of which, 258 DANGERS OF almost a point, the holy footstep is imprinted, surmounted by the picturesque little temple — ^the same mass that we had seen and gazed upon with such interest at sea, in Galle, in Colombo ; everywhere in the island in fact. I felt dehghted at the prospect of satisfying my curiosity at length, and even looked benevo- lently upon the coolie through whom I had lost my brandy ! The ascent of this cone is by no means easy. The steepness of the sides and the force with which the wind whistles round it, at a height approaching to eight thousand feet, are sufficient in themselves to render it anything but an easy matter to make one's way to the top, and were it not for the chains which are hung in some places to facihtate the ascent of the pilgrims, it would be both difhcult and dangerous. The road winds up the western side in a zig-zag direction, like a strung series of Z's, consisting of a narrow pathway, formed partly by jutting rocks, and partly by incisions in the mountain's sides. The scrubby European-looking vegeta- tion affords the adventurous traveller a hold occasionally as he passes some parts of miusual difficulty, whilst in others, the vegetation shuts him in completely, and he clambers along up a THE ASCENT, 259 kind of ravine. In three or four places a smooth rock is to he ascended, which would be a matter of no little difficulty, if not altogether impossible, were it not for the chains I have mentioned, which are firmly rivetted into the rocks above, and let down over the ascent ; even with these, however, strength and agility are both requh'ed to get up securely and un- assisted. The loss of his hold, or an awkward slip, would precipitate the traveller or pilgrim into eternity. Even women, it is said, annually ascend the Peak, in compliance with the dic- tates of rehgious enthusiasm, and there is scarcely a dangerous spot in the ascent, of which the guide will not be able to tell you some story connected with the loss of human life, usually females. The year in which our guide had previously ascended, the second before our expedition, two unfortunate female pilgrims had been blown over the side of the hill at one of those frightful corners on the road, where a square foot of rock alone preserves the traveller from destruction. On looking into the abyss below, I could discern a fragment of cloth waving on the gnarled stem of an oak-hke bush, far, far, beneath us. At length I stepped forth from a little en- 260 ARRIVAL AT THE SUMMIT. trance in the small wall, built round the hal- lowed precincts of the foot-impression. I was on the very summit of Adam's Peak, and, in my joy and triumph, I saluted the holy locality with a hearty " hurrah !" The wall which had been built round the summit is about three feet high, and confines a quantity of earth, forming a pathway round the huge rock in the centre, over which the little temple is built. The temple itself con- sists merely of a picturesque roof, Chinese look- ing, supported on strong wooden pillars, and preserved from being blow^n down by massive iron chains inserted into the rocks around, re- minding one of the cords from the top of a tent pole. On the eastern side the pathway is extensive enough to admit of a small bungalow having been erected, in which the priests reside during the period of pilgrimage. Here of course we took up our quarters, and I then proceeded to examine the great object of re- verence, to adore which the enthusiastic natives encounter so many dangers. The sacred foot- step is emphatically a humbug — a humbug of humbugs in fact. I had expected to find it something approaching a humbug, but not so egregious a one, as it proved to be. All that ITS TEMPERATUKE. 261 exists naturally in the rock, is two oval cavities, about two feet from each other, one of which some ^dvid Eastern imagination conjured into a heel, the other into the impression of the ball of the foot — aU the rest is evidently artificial — ■ too evidently to leave the shadow of a doubt on the subject in the beholder's mind — the toes indeed are made with coarse Hme or chunam, and, were it not for a border of the same, the outhne of a foot would never be recognized. The extreme length of this " faint exaggera- tion of a footstep," as it has been happily called, is five feet three inches, its breadth vary- ing from two feet five to two feet nine inches. Nothing could be more bracing and delight- ful than the temperature at this great altitude. I felt it cold of course, but the thermometer, which I carried with me, did not descend lower than 47° during the day and night I was on the summit — a sufficient contrast from the 80° and 90° I had been lately experiencing in Colombo. The coolies, having first devoutly worshipped towards the " sri-pada," or holy footstep, but mthout venturing to examine it too closely, next proceeded to kindle a fire, and in a few minutes a cheerful blaze shone tlu'ough the thatched walls of the little priest's bunga- 262 MAGNIFICENT SUNRISE. low. The natives were not accustomed to use a fire for warmth, and, as they crouched before it, they found doubtless to their annoyance that it did not warm their backs equally with the fronts of their bodies, and in order to secure a little of the genial heat for all, to my surprise, on entering, Avhen I had finished my examina- tion of the summit, I found them gyrating on their heels, like so many monkeys being roasted. The night passed away without any incident of importance, and next morning I witnessed a scene Avliich fully repaid me for all my previous toils — the rising of the sun. It was certainly the most magnificent sight I have ever wit- nessed. When I rose in the morning all was black below, nothing whatever could be distin- guished, except a few streaks of hght in the East. Gradually the rays shot fmtlier and further over the sky, and at length, standing in the foot-impression, on the highest pinnacle of the summit, I could discern a small portion of the sun himself Still everything around and beneath was dark — the sky alone glowing with light, but all l^elow like a vast black ocean of the most forbidding character. At length a hill in our vicinity Avas touched by the rays, MAGNIFICENT SUNEISE. 263 and there, in the gloom, it shone and glistened like a piece of burnished gold in a sea of pitch. Another and another mountain top caught the glow and stood prominently forth, shining gor- geously in the surrounding darkness. And so it went on — the shining islands ever increasing in size and becoming more numerous until nothing remained dark but the valleys between the highest hills, whilst the various tints of the clouds that hmig on the mountain sides added a pecuhar charm to the landscape. I could at length discover the Indian ocean to the west and south, and more than half the island was laid open, as in a vast panorama, to my inspec- tion. To witness the rising of the sun from the summit of Adam's Peak, is a sight worth living and toihng for, and once witnessed, can never be forgotten — the impression, vivid almost as the reality, will live in the memory, however far we may be removed from the mountain in distance, or from the scene itself by time. In the vast landscape that was thus spread out before me standing on that solitary cone, a mile and a-half in perpendicular height, from the level of the sea, I was particularly struck by the absence of any trace of man. Not a 264 VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. single object which I could discern around or below recalled him or his works — all was nature in its highest and grandest sense. The thick forests that filled the valleys ; the rocks, massive, bleak, and stern, that marked the hills' sides ; the rivers or streams winding Hke threads of silver through the green or brown beneath ; the clouds white, grey, and black, that dotted the landscape here and there — all was nature, and nature only, without being interfered with or marred by man. The scene reminded me of an eloquent passage in Jouffroy's works, in which he says : — " In the bosom of cities, man appears to be the principal concern of creation ; his apparent superiority is there most signally displayed ; he there seems to preside over the theatre of the world, or rather to occupy it himself. But when this being, so haughty, so powerful, so absorbed by his own interests in the crowds of cities, and in the midst of his fellows, chances to be brought into a vast and majestic scene of nature in view of the illimit- able firmament, surrounded by the works of creation, which overwhelm him, if not by their intelligence at least by their magnitude ; when from the summit of a mountain, or under the light of the stars, he beholds petty callages, RETURN TO RATNAPOORA, 265 lost in forests, which themselves are lost in the extent of the prospect, and reflects that these villages are inhabited by frail and imperfect beings like himself; when he compares these beings and their abodes with the magnificent spectacle of external nature : when he compares this with the world, on whose surface it is but a point, and this world, in its turn, with the myriads of worlds that are suspended above him, and before which it is nothing — in the presence of such a spectacle, he views with pity the miserable conflicting passions of his fellow- man." On returning to Pallabatula I found Hofer anxiously awaiting me. He had prepared a chair for himself, in which he was to be carried back to Eatnapoora — two bamboos being merely attached to it, one at each side of the seat, and thus he hoped to make the journey, hoisted on the shoulders of four coolies. The coolies were reHeved every mile or so, and a dozen of them contrived to carry him safely, though slowly, along, so that we arrived at Eatnapoora, where our horses awaited us, without accident. VOL. I. 206 IDLE SEASON. CHAPTEE VIII. A PLANTER'S PARTY. " Which is the villain? Let me see his eyes ; That when I note another man like him, I may avoid him." 3Iuch Ado About Nothing, act v., sc, L Notwithstanding the great distances of the various plantations from each other, the reunions of their owners and managers were common and frequent. In the idle season of the year Europeans were to be seen riding about in all directions througli the miserable native paths, over districts wliich, anywhere else, would be declared impassable for horses. But no district was regarded as of this description in Ceylon, save the ascent of the Peak. Some would be encountered making their way to Colombo, for supplies of provisions or money ; some on the road to Kand}- ; others going to visit a friend, or to spend a week on the table-land in the south i EXTENSION OF COFFEE CULTIVATION. 267 east, called Newera Ellia — a delightful retreat amongst the mountains from the heat and monotony of the plains. Between 1843 and 1847 the cultivation of coffee was so rapidly ex- tending on the island, as to promise the hap- piest results from the large influx of Europeans and of European capital. Many estates were opened only to be sold again as soon as they came into bearing, to some one of the many capitalists who deter- mined on embarking their money in the specu- lation, and in this way perhaps, there was more profit made than in any other. Wlien a piece of land judiciously selected, was cleared of forest and planted with coffee, there were al- ways buyers to be found, ready to give a much larger sum for the infant estate than it had cost — men, for the most part, quite ignorant of the details of cultivation themselves, and who pre- ferred trusting the judgment of others, whom tliey supposed to know something of the matter. The risks attending the culture of the shrub ai'e considerable, and it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that very frequently excellent pro- perties were thus brought into the market, the owners of which preferred realizing a profit at once to running the various risks of bhghts, n2 1 26S INJUEY CAUSED BY KATS. coffee bugs, and rats, which often appeared and disappeared unaccountably. The Parala estate, on which my friend Fowler was situated pretty much in the same way as I on the one which I managed, that is, as superintendent and part proprietor, was nearly twenty miles distant. It consisted of five hundred acres of coffee, and about one thousand of forest land, up to tliis time un- touched. It was a flourishing property, al- though it had recently been attacked by the rats, in the same unaccountable way as many other estates m the neighbourhood — the vermin having appeared and disappeared without any one being able to explain either where they had come from, or whither they had gone. However, that they had gone was certain, and no one in our district wished for their return merely that the scientific mystery should be cleared up. By nibbling at the new shoots of the stems and branches, they had injui'ed thousands of plants and destroyed several, so that we were quite wilhng to rest ignorant of their whereabouts, rather than to encounter them again, to have our theories on the subject confirmed or disproved. Notwithstanding such di'awbacks as these, BRIGHT PROSPECTS. 269 however, Fowler's estate, like most others in the neighbourhood, was flourishing. The cul- tivation was everywhere extending, and the future of Ceylon looked bright and cheerful for it was never supposed that the tariff", on the faith of which all this outlay was made, all this capital embarked, would be suddenly, and without warning, altered. It was by the help of the protective duties on colonial produce alone that Ceylon was enabled to compete with Brazil and Java, and the anticipation that those duties would be removed had probably not entered into the head of a single speculator in Ceylon. At the time of which I write all was bright in the prospect, and there can be no doubt that fifty years of such prosperity would have infused the new life and vigour of the West into the oriental lethargy of the island. The trackless forests would have been reclaimed, man taking the place of the wild beast. Happy homes and smihng faces would have been seen where now the elephant and leopard roam undisturbed. The high lands, so admirably adapted to the Em'opean constitu- tion, would doubtless be the homes of English farmers and gardeners, and Christian hymns ascend as thank-offerings from Christian hearts 270 THE planters' life — ill places liitherto trodden only by the wander- ing savages, who, under the name of Veddahs, lead a kind of wild-beast life in the forests of Ceylon. True, there is little prospect at present of such ultimate results sj)eedily ap- pearing, but then I saw no reason to doubt their complete reahzation. Under such circumstances, with increased facilities for rapid communication with England, T could scarcely picture to myself a happier lot than that of the successful planter, living upon and working his own estate, with his family flourishing around him, spending the cooler por- tion of the year with them on his own propert}^, and the warmer on some of the elevated table- lands of the south-east. But we were only the pioneers, I knew, of whose labours others must reap the advantage in comfort and plenty, and, as things were, it was not to be wondered at that most married men should feel discontented with their Ceylon life, as Hofer evidently soon began to feel, but I doubted not tlien, that ulti- mately all that I have shadowed forth, and more, would be accomplished. Nothing could be more various than the dress and appearance of us, coffee-planters in Ceylon. Every man's clothes were cut after THEIR DRESS AXD APPEARANCE. 271 his own fasliion ; some consulting ease and appearance, but the majority ease alone, in their habiliments. A short coat, not hkely to impede or incommode one in the saddle ; a black belt to support the pantaloons, and no waistcoat, were the most ordinary forms into which planting insouciance moulded its clothes. But, above all, were we distinguished by our dihgent eschewing of the ugly black European hat. In Colombo, and indeed in the towns generally, this extraordinary appendage, so unsuited to a tropical climate, still maintained, and doubtless does maintain, its place, but the race of planters was wiser "than to incommode itself by any such absurdity. The substitutes for it were as various as the tastes of the wearers, and the ingenuity of the workmen. Of these substitutes, of which the great majority were formed of pith, some resembled copper boilers reversed, in shape, with broad brims, and innumerable air-holes at the top ; others, hehnet-fashioned, had a peak in front and a wadded apron behind, just (as far as shape is concerned) as if a child's pinafore had been tied behind upon a jockey's cap, the object of this extraordinary curtain being to defend the back of the neck from the sun ; others projected from the head outrageously, 272 STRIKING CONTRASTS. caldron-fasliion, as if the unfortunate individual had fallen, head foremost, into a whitewashed wooden washing basin, and, having made his way half through it, had there been fixed immovably ; whilst not a few recalled to one's mind the helmet of Mambrino in Don Quixote. The hirsute faces, for I need scarcely say that few of us took the trouble to disfigure ourselves by shaving — the hirsute faces and strangely-equipped figures which ap- peared under these extraordinary head-cover- ings, formed as striking a contrast as can well be conceived, with what the same individuals would present in Eotten Row or Regent Street. Our host Fowler, with whom Hofer and myself had become quite intimate, was a superior and an estimable man, disguising under a fierce, bushy black beard, of the most warhke appearance, great amiability and bene- volence. His acquaintance Siggins, from a neighbouring plantation, was a strange cha- racter, one of those extraordinary compounds who affect singularity in the most trivial matters, and who seem to consider it a suffi- cient reason for doing anything, that no one else would think of doing so, or, for leaving it undone, that other people would do it. His intensely red whiskers and moustaches beau- A NOSE. 273 tifully harmonised in colom- with by far the most prominent and peculiar featm-e of his countenance — liis nose; in shape the organ was a Brougham, but in size and colour it differed materially from the standard of the type, projecting and peering upwards in awful contrast with the glistening glasses of the spectacles which were almost constantly above it. Like its prototype too, Siggins' remark- able nose was never at rest — ^at one time the observer might suppose it was holding dis- course knowingly with one eye, at another that it was setting, in a facial quadrille, to one of the corners of the mouth. Now it was drooping, with melancholy despondency over the fiery moustache and ample lips, and, anon, it was raised twitchingly aloft as if in- ternally singing an " lo triumphe" in grati- tude for some recent blessing — depressed or elevated, however, in converse with one side or the other of the mouth, it still twitched convulsively as such a nose only could twitch, its colour at one moment scarcely crimson, whilst during the next it had mounted into an ample purple that threatened the precincts of the eyes Avith invasion. Long locks of light brown hair, straight as a ship's masts, hung N 3 274 bachelor's party. over Siggins' coat collar, and formed an agree- able contrast with the glowing face. Imagine, reader, such a head mounted to a height of six feet two, upon an ungainly awkward body, and you have the individual daguerreotyped in your mind's eye. Besides these, there were a taciturn merchant from Colombo, Mr. Smith, not long settled in the island, and an officer of the Rifle-corps, a descendant of a Dutch family, Lieut. Vanstrut, who was justly proud of his uniform, which he would not part with, even in the jungle — juL^ly proud I say of his uniform, for he had nothing else to be proud of. He happened to be on a visit to Fowler at the time, who was under some obligations to his family, or he certainly would not have been a member of a convi^^al jungle party. These were all strangers to me, and therefore I have taken the trouble to say a word or two respecting each ; but, be- sides these, there were Mouat and Hofer — the latter had quite recovered fr'om the injury done to his foot, when ascending the Peak. I was sorry to see Hofer there — not that I thought married men should eschew bachelor's EEFLECTIONS. 275 parties, but that it seemed to me a sort of neglect to his lonely and beautiful wife, to leave her thus constantly by herself in tlie jungle — as he did at this period indeed, but too frequently. A childless home is, alas ! likely to be an unhappy one, even under the most favourable circumstances, how much more so when thus isolated in the midst of the jungle ! True she was the first, as I had seen, to urge him to seek enjoyment elsewhere ; always cheerful, always apparently happy, and what between her household duties, her studies, her practice of painting and music, and her benevo- lent journeys, invariably professing her perfect happiness and contentment, whether her hus- band remained with her or not, but must not the quick eye of love have speedily discovered what was apparent even to the casual glance of the stranger ? If Fowler and I could perceive and lament that he was now fonder of absence from home than he had been, how much more keenly must she have felt it ! Who shall tell, 1 thought, as I rode home the next morning with him, how many bitter, salt tears have coursed each other down her cheeks during his absence ! how many sighs of regret have burst from that heaving bosom, as thoughts of home and past happiness have moved the heart ! 270 REFLECTIONS. And yet, to all outward seeming, he was still the same affectionate husband he had been, and the few with whom they were intimate, but who did not observe them so closely as we did, would, probably, nay almost certainly, conclude that a happier, more loving, more contented couple than the Hofers did not exist. How false a test outward seeming is of real happi- *ness ! How small a portion the outward vi- sible calamity woman has to bear, forms of the sorrow which her heart mourns over ! How many a smiling face, particularly in her case, hides an aching heart ! How fatal a blessing is not that sensibility, that sentiment, wliich forms one of her chief charms, and constitutes frequently, at the same time, her greatest source of misery ! It must not be concluded from this that Hofer was gloomy and his wife querulous. By no means ! He was still hopeful, full of life, and joy, and vigour, as when I first met him in Colombo. He still paid every attention to his wife, anticipated her wants only to sup- ply them, was tender, affectionate, nay loving in his manner, and she before him, and his friends, and all the world, was still the same bright, cheerful, beautiful model of womanly grace and womanly fondness she had been, when we tra- REFLECTIONS. 277 veiled together from Colombo. But he, unfortu- nately, wanted determination and a strong wiU, and, as a necessary consequence, perseverance. Change and variety were cravings of his nature which he had not learned to direct or to subdue. New schemes and new plans were ever luring him on to short bursts of exertion, and to him the greatest of evils was monotony and uniformity. One would have fancied that his wanderings over the world, in Europe, in America, in Asia, would have satisfied this roving, change-loving disposition, but it was not so. With strong intellect, a briUiant ima- gination, and a cultivated mind, he wanted that resolute will which is necessary to success and happiness — Tvithout wliich, indeed, the most shining quahties are but sources of incon- venience, nay, possibly, causes of unhappiness. Who can over-estimate the importance of this quality, and yet how shamefully is its cultiva- tion neglected in our youthful studies and training ? What greater enemy can man have, as an individual or a community, than a rest- less, ever-acting desire of change ? the peevish- ness of the child who tires of one toy and cries lor another, carried into the important business of life and cankering the fair buds 278 LIFE rx THE JUNGLE CONTRASTED of happiness which the sunshine of home and the tender gardening of woman, cause to flourish so luxuriantly around us. The gourd that arrived at maturity in a night perished in a day, as Burke somewhere remarks, but the oak that will last for centuries takes a hundred years of patient persevering growth to arrive at maturity. Let me turn, however, from these melan- choly reflections to what I intended to describe. Our party was at first a right pleasant and merry one, and the fare of the best that the jungle could afibrd. European condiments here, as indeed all over the East, amongst Englishmen, being the most highly esteemed. A good ham, or a fresh cheese giving exquisite dehffht to men who would seldom taste either the one or the other at home perhaps, whilst the richest curries and the most luscious tropi- cal fruits, were despised in comparison. I have so frequently seen this the case in India, that I at length ceased to wonder at it ; yet surely it was notable ! The very difficulty of procuring the most ordinary European articles of food in an eatable condition, seemed to render them luxuries to the epicm'ean palate, whilst tropical dainties, that would infcdlibly be luxuries in WITH LIFE IN LONDON. 279 England, were neglected because too easily ob- tained. A type this, I fear, of humanity every, where. The blessing which costs us little to reach, either of exertion or of wealth, is often thrown aside for the inferior gratification to which a difficulty in procuring it has added a zest. How^ many are there not in London, sur- rounded by comforts and luxuries of the most intensely gratifying character, who regard themselves as miserable because they want some trifle which they cannot obtain ! They take up their ' Times ' daily, and receive their letters almost every hour, without ever asking themselves how they would do without either for weeks together. They can obtain their dinners in every street almost, and sit down to them grumbhng, without ever reflecting that the planter has often to ride twenty miles, and even then perhaps finds his dinner not ready when he requires it. They lounge in their easy cliairs before a grateful, cheerful-looking fire, with a magazine or a review, or the last lion- ized book of the season in their hands, without bestow^g a thought on the grilling to which Anglo-Indians are exposed, the hosts of mus- quitoes they must encounter, or the snakes, 280 MALABAR VeTSUS scorpions, and centipedes of which they daily and nightly, stand, and walk, and sleep in dread. But there is no use in pursuing the reflection ; the Londoner is doubtless already blushing at his ingratitude so I shall e'en spare him. The more serious business of the dinner dispatched, we almost naturally fell into a conversation about coolies ; a comparison be- tween the Malabar coohes from the continent and the native Kandians, forming a point for discussion. All were willing to yield the palm to the Kandians in many respects, but Hofer and myself alone maintained their superior honesty, which the others were inclined to doubt. " I think the Kandians are stronger and work more like men," said Siggins, the nose rising perceptibly towards the forehead, " that is, with the help of a little looking after, and occasionally feeling a riding-whip or a cane, but although the Malabars are great scoundrels and thieves, I think the Kandians are greater." " You are complimentary to them," said I, looking at Fowler's Kandian servant, who was in the room at the time, and who perfectly understood Enghsli, but, although he had evi- dently listened to the observation, not a muscle KAXDIAN COOLIES. 2S1 on his countenance, not so much as the invo- luntary winking of his eyes showed that he had heard it. " Why I take care not to let them have their own way, and they soon get used to mine," answered Siggins, his nasal organ effecting a bend sinister. "Every man is a magistrate on his own estate, you know," he continued, " and therefore, as long as the man is work- ing for you, you have a right to do what you like with liim — that is, anything short of killing." " A new doctrine, truly," said Mouat, coming as near a laugh as he ever permitted himself, " but one very often acted upon, I beheve." "Always acted on by men of sense, IVIr. Mouat," rejoined Siggins. " How are you or any other magistrate to know what goes on on my estate, for instance ?" " Did I know all that goes on, on any estate, even on my benevolent friend Fowler's, I fear it would not be very edifying — what think you, Hofer ?" asked the httle magistrate. "I quite agree with you," rephed Hofer, " the distinction between mea and tua I fear, is Httle recognized on these bachelors' estates, whatever may be said of meum and tuiim." 282 MALABAR COOLIES " That it sliould be all mea and no tua would be perhaps Mr. Siggins' idea," said Mouat again. "I don't remember much of the Latin I learned at school," rejoined Siggins, the nose waxing purple by degrees, " but I think I can understand what you mean. I go by this rule — if a man on my estate tells me yes, I believe he would say no if he dare, and until I look and discover, or find out the truth some other way, I pay no attention to his yes. Now that saves a great deal of trouble." '* You never believe then what one of your labourers says ?" I asked. "Never," said he, "I never believe what any man about the place says until I look at it, and see for myself. They know that now, and they don't venture to tell me the bare- faced lies they used, and it is not often that I find any opposition made to anything I wish, but when I do, they smart for it, I assure you." " Very extraordinary this in an Enghsh colony," said Mr. Smith. " Siggins understands the native character," said Vanstrut, arranging his collar, " and treats the people very properly." THEIR HEROISM. 283 "I cannot say I approve of the principle," said Hofer, " but really it is very hard to keep one's temper with them sometimes." " Impossible, Sir, quite impossible," said Siggins, eagerly, "they are worthless, tho- roughly worthless — the fear of the whip or the cane is the only thing that rouses them to exertion." " There you are certainly mistaken, Mr. Sig- gins," said Fowler, firmly, " men who travel hundreds of miles on foot, through the most unfrequented forests and jungles in order to earn their bread honestly by the sweat of their brow, are not thoroughly worthless, and can evidently be di'iven to exertion by far other motives than the fear of the lash." You are right, Fowler," said Hofer ; " in that point of view they deserve every praise and commendation — they make great sacrifices that they may carry home a trifle to their homes, and instances of the most unselfish and noble devotion are frequent amongst them." " It was but in the last gang that I hired," said Fowler, " that a wife preferred remaining behmd to perish with her sick husband in the depths of the forest, to pushing on for life with the gang." 284 CRUELTY. "Stuff!" said Siggins, "all sham, every bit of it. Just you try kindness, and see how you'll get on with your work. I tried it when I first came here, five years ago, and I got nothing done, I promise you." "Wliy you were up before me, and fined three times during the first two years," said Mouat, " do you call that the result of your Idndness ?" " Yes," said Siggins, " I was green, and did'nt know what was what. But you'll not catch me up before you, or any one else, for the future. I manage matters better than that now." " One of my peons told me of some frightful flogging that one of your fellows got on your estate the other day," said Mouat, " but as it did not come before me officially, of course I took no notice of it — planters and magistrates should mutually support and assist each other ; but it shows that these things are spoken of." " Did he," said Siggins, angrily, " I'm glad you told me. It was a simple affliir enough. I honoured the rascal's daughter with a little attention — she was a fair, neatly-formed Kan- dian girl — and he sulked about it, although he had been regularly employed on my place for CKUELTY. 285 three years. In fact, lie grew at length so insolent, that he came and demanded her out of the bungalow, where she was living in- finitely more decently and respectably than ever slie had been living before. The servants had particular orders, of course, that she should not leave. I told him his request was absurd, and he then took to cryhig. I laughed at him as any one else would do, and he then grew angry and swore at me. That was too much, so ordering liim up in the verandah, he had two dozen — he should have had four, but the daughter broke away from the servants inside, when she heard him' crying out, and, throwing herself at my feet, begged mercy for him, so I let him go. As he left the verandah, however, he tm-ned and swore at me again, talking of the magistrate, so I had him up once more, and whilst he was getting another dozen and his daughter was being locked up again, J sent for the head-man of the village, to whom I gave a few rupees, and told him that if I had any more trouble from that fellow, I should never hire a man from his village again. He promised I should hear no more of him, and took him off." " Good God," said I, "is it possible that any 286 A planter's tyranny. man can, not only do such, things, but have the hardihood to relate them before the magistrate, whose duty it is to investigate and punish such crimes ?" " If Mr. Siggins has done as he states, I undoubtedly condemn it," said Mouat, turning his cold, impassive eyes on me ; " but, at the same time, I am not bound to take advantage of what I hear privately, at my friend's table, to punish one of his guests." " It is a horrible circumstance," said Hofer ; " and had I had the heart to do it, I should have been ashamed to relate it." " Very possibly," said Siggins, coolly ; " you are both comparatively new here — not much more than a twelvemonth in the jungle yet : a few years will make you less nice." A silence of some minutes succeeded tliis observation, during which I reasoned within myself whether I should not urge Mouat to take notice of the matter judicially. Hofer evidently guessed my thoughts, for he shook his head in a deprecatory way ; and feeling assured that the sense of the party was against the interference, I said no more. Mouat saw the shake of the head, and probably understood its import, saying, " I regard this relation in A magistrate's connivance, 287 the light of a private friendly piece of gossip, not serious ; but if any one chooses to come to the court-house to-morrov^, and swear that such things took place at Pallagolly, I shall investigate the matter fully." " Bravo ! Mouat," said Siggins, laughing heartily. "It is sometimes a dangerous matter for gentlemen to take to thrashing their servants," said Mouat, continuing, " as our friend Van- strut can testify." Vanstrut showed, by the sheepish way in which he played with a gold cable that hung round his neck in heu of a watch-guard, that he full}^ understood the allusion, but by no means relished it. " Ah — a-hem," said he ; "I have no sym- pathy with the Kandians or Malabar s at all. They're both equally bad. Siggins was quite right, hang me if he wasn't." Now considering that it was commonly re- ported that Yanstrut's grandmother was a Kandian lady of some rank, this remark was intolerable. " But why can Vanstrut testify as you say ?" asked I of Mouat, to the former gentleman's great uneasiness. 288 TUKNING THE TxVBLES. " AVliy really, after Siggins's very mal-apropos narrative, I don't think I can do better than ^show that the tables are sometimes turned," said Monat, with his peculiar eye-twinkle. '* Vanstrut, it appears, when he first joined the Eifles in Colombo, had a big Malabar horse- keeper, Tliuru by name — wasn't it Thuru ?" " Yes, Thuru," said Vanstrut, with some shght symptom of energy in his language ; " as srreat a scoundrel as ever rubbed down a horse." " Doubtless," continued Mouat ; " weU, his name was Thuru. Vanstrut had, moreover, an unfortunate hal^it of horsewhipping his offend- ing servants, which, in the more civilized parts of our noble island, often got him into trouble. One day Thuru had neglected something, or, which was nearly the same thing in its ,con- sequences, Vanstrut fancied so, and accord- ingly gave him a harmless horsewhipping, not exceeding, I believe, in the castigation by any means the Hmits of moderation. Some of the servants were present, however ; and Thuru, who was a favourite, and knew what his rights were, went off to the pohce magistrate's court^ and made his deposition ; the other servants were summoned as witnesses. The case was clearly proved; and to make an example of TUENING THE TABLES. 289 the military offender, Vanstrut was fined five pounds — a" sum which he would willingly pay any day for a httle gratification." " Certainly," said Vanstrut, proudly ; " a mere trifle. Who wouldn't pay as much for a little gratification, as Mouat says ?" " But our friend was not content," continued Mouat ; "he thought Thm^u had the advantage of him, as the correction given was inadequate to the price paid : so he sent for Thuru, told him it was all forgiven, and hired him again." The smile which diffused itself over the cox- combical countenance of Vanstrut showed that he rejoiced in the recollection of this clever procedm-e. " One day," proceeded Mouat, " Thuru was alone in the kitchen, and Vanstrut, seizing his whip and the opportunity at the same time, marched down from the house. Shutting the door, he advanced to Thuru, brandishing the whip. ' Now, you scoundrel,' said he, ' no one shall see it, and I'll give yOu a thrashing you'll remember. I've sent all the servants out of the way, and you shall feel somewhat more 'than you did before.' — 'Stop, mahathma,' said Thuru, beseechingly ; ' no hit me ; master, for- give all.'-T— ' Yes, you scoundi-el, till I could get VOL. I. o 290 TURNING THE TABLES. an opportunity, but no longer,' answered Yan- strut, closing up. — ' Stop, maliatlima,' urged Tliuru again, liis hands joined in front in the attitude of prayer. ' Master send all servants 'way?' — ' Yes, you rascal,' said Yanstrut, bring- ing his whip down on the bare shoulder of the supphant. But now came Thuru's turn. Leaping on his master, whom he speedily over- powered, he seized the riding-whip, a remarkably heavy one, and made it come into intimate acquaintance with his master's body. Yan- strut was thrown down amongst black pots and earthenware dishes, and then, for full five minutes, as he himself afterwards related whilst still sore from the thrashing, did Thuru vigor- ously ply the whip, proving his muscular force and his dexterity at the same time, for he left no marks upon any uncovered portion of our friend's body. At length, wearied with his exertion, or afraid of interruption, for he swore afterwards that the mahathma had roared like a bull — " " An infernal lie," said Yanstrut. " Wearied with his exertion, I say," con- tinued Mouat, " or afraid of interruption, Thuru ceased, and was speeddy at a considerable dis- tance from his master's house, where he did TURNING THE TABLES. 291 not again venture to make Lis appearance. Vanstrut liad him arrested, and the case came before the magistrate, greatly to Thuru's con- sternation ; but a little cross-examination brought out the whole story, and Vanstrut got laughed at into the bargain, whilst Thuru escaped with flying colours. Indeed, Lister told me that ' Thuru ' is still a standing toast at the Eifle mess," " No, no," said the gallant officer, quickly ; " they do sometimes quiz a Kttle about it, but that's all — not a standing toast, certainly. Do you know," he continued, more solemnly, " I have been very near going out with some of our fellows about this very affair; and when they saw I really did intend it, there was less talking than there used to be." The former part of the evening had been pleasant and vivacious, but after this the mer- riment ceased, and the party soon broke up. Siggins' horrible narrative had completely de- stroyed our pleasure, and Fowler and Hofer, I thought, as well as our Colombo friend, Mr. Smith, shared in the general indignation. I felt a loathing for the man and liis coarse humour, such as I do not remember having ever felt before for any person with whom I had been 292 BREAKING UP OF brought into sucli close connexion, and it was a relief to me wlien lie was gone. I remained at Fowler's that night, who accommodated Hofer and myself with such extempore beds as a cofFee-jDlanter's bungalow could afford. I was astonished at Mouat's taking no fui-ther measures to punish so detestable a piece of cruelty ; but, strange to say, on mentioning my impressions on the subject to Hofer, he did not agree with me. He condemned the transaction as one of wanton cruelty, " but," said he, " it is quite a Quixotic idea to suppose that a magis- trate is to be a hunter-out of crimuials in his private meetings with his friends. He is, naturally anxious to stand well with the planters, and such a procedure as you advocate on his part, would destroy all confidence be- tween both parties. Looking at it abstractedly, as a question of right and wrong, you are, doubt- less, on the safe side ; but other things must be taken into consideration. If the head-man and the people in the village have combined to defeat the ends of justice, you would find that Mouat's exertions would be useless, and so he, doubtless, thinks himself." These arguments were by no means satisfactory to me, nor did ]\Iouat, in my mind, stand absolved from a THE TARTY. 293 gross dereliction of his duty; but, on subse- quently sending to the village, and afterwards going myself, I found that Hofer was partially right. No evidence to convict Siggins of the crime could be collected, nor could I even dis- cover, after the most diligent investigation, the injured Kandian whom Siggins had treated so barbarously. Had Mouat himself, however, armed with all the authority of the law, un- dertaken the investigation, there can be little doubt that the result would have been very different. 294 SPORTING PARTY. CHAPTEE IX. SPORTING— ELKS AND ELEPHANTS. " Come, shall we go and kill U8 venison ? And yet it irks me, the poor dappled fools, Being native burghers of this desert city, Should, in tlieir own confines, with forked heads, Have their round haunches gored." As You Like It, act ii., so. 1. It was some time after the incidents related in the last chapter had occurred, that Hofer assembled a shooting party at his bungalow for a few days' sport. His estate was situated in a fine district for the purpose, as wild and jungly as the most inveterate hunter could desire. The party consisted of Captain Lister, and a young of&cer he had brought with him, who had only just arrived in Ceylon, of the name of Sparks — Lister as thorough an ele- phant-killer as any of the most experienced sportsmen in the island, and Sparks as green a SPOKTING PARTY. 295 griffin as ever landed in Colombo, and that is saying much ; Mouat, and Towler, and myself completed the party — all three pretending to some little skill with the rifle, but all equally willing to give the palm to Lister, and to be guided by his experience. The day of our arrival was spent in an in- spection of the estate, each of us having a separate opinion to offer relative to Hofer's new schemes and improvements. Beaters were sent out to look after the elephants, that is, natives whose duty it was to drive away any herd that they might find towards the neighbourhood in which we intended to shoot on the succeeding day ; and in the meantime we sat down to din- ner — such a dinner as men among the mountains can alone enjoy. Not that there was any ex- traordinary delicacy forthcoming, far from it; the meal was but plain and substantial; but the excellent appetite our walks had given us, and the cordiality which prevailed amongst the little party, all tended to make it such a dinner as one does not readily forget. Nor must I omit the perfect grace and elegance with which our hostess played her part — the solitary flower amongst so stubbly a forest. Her influence was happily felt in adding a charm and refine- 296 JOKE PLAYED OFF ment to the entertainment, wliich the want of female society in the jungle generally, makes one feel all the more keenly and sensitively. There is something new to planters, accustomed to their own bungalows for years, and their neighbours' bachelor parties, in finding them- selves once more seated near the highest form of civilized life, a cultivated woman. There is an insensible charm diffused over the table and through the air by the presence of one whose refinement pervades at once the bungalow itself and the minutest details of the arrangements in it, that must be felt to be understood. In the course of conversation, after Mrs. Hofer had left the table, I heard Sparks asking our host whether there were any bread-fruit trees near his estate, and expressing his anxiety to see one. " Certainly," said Hofer ; " we passed several of them to-day — if you come out with me early to-morrow morning, we can bruig home some fruit for breakfast." " I shall be delighted," said Sparks ; " but you don't mean to say that you eat it instead of bread ?" " You shall judge for yourself whether it can be so eaten," was the reply ; '*but you must be UPON A " GRIFFIN." 297 aware that out in the jungle here we have great difficulty in getting any bread at all, save what we make ourselves, or procure from the tree." " Is it possible ?" asked Sparks. "A little roasting," continued Hofer, "to put a crust on it is sufficient to convince you that it is really from the oven." It was evident that poor Sparks had to pay the usual penalty of griffin-hood, in being de- ceived to the utmost possible extent that the knowmg ones could accomphsh. Mouat chimed in with Hofer, assuring Sparks, with the greatest coolness, of the superiority of a bread- fruit for breakfast to the best possible loaf from a baker's, " although, indeed," he added, " you new-comers are so prejudiced in your taste that I have seen men declare it was watery and in- sipid. Of its nutritious qualities, however, there cannot be a question — indeed, you have only to look at our friend Lister for a proof, for every one knows he was as spare as I am when he first came out, and that the dili- gent use of bread-fruit alone has made him what he is." Lister was earnestly describing to Fowler, at the moment, some elephant adventure, and Mouat knew, therefore, that he was safe, whilst o3 298 JOKE PLAYED OFF Sparks considered tlie subject too delicate a one to question liis superior officer about. At half past five the next morning I heard Hofer and Mouat bustling about and getting Sparks out, I quickly joined them, to see what would be made of the joke, and we took the road through the estate where the coolies were just commencing work. A quarter of an hour's good walking brought us within sight of a bread-fruit tree, on which I could distinguish some white fruit, new to my eye, and, as I felt assured, to the tree also. Hofer pointed it out to Sparks — " There is the fruit, you see, quite ripe." " Very extraordinary, indeed," replied the young officer ; "it looks from this exactly like bread. I read somewhere or other that the fruit was green ; I am sure I did," he added, giving his companions a searching look. " You have only to look at the tree," said Mouat, "to see the green fruit in abundance; there are only three or four perfectly ripe, and in a few months there won't be a single ripe fruit on it. That's the cause of the mistake, I dare say, You can have no idea," he added confidentially, " of the mistakes people make in writing about Ceylon. Why, there's one UPON A "GRIFFIN." 299 autlior — I forget his name — that mentions Ruminacaddee as being a few miles from Galle." " Perhaps there's another village there," suggested Sparks, "of the same name." " Nothing of the kind," was the reply ; " but let us have some fruit for breakfast, Hofer ; you know I am very fond of it." A coohe was called, who from his proximity to us, and the distance at which he was working from the rest, had, I suspected, been stationed there for the purpose, and was told to tlu'ow us down three of the ripe " loaves." The coolie brought down three specimens of the extraordinary fr-uit, as he had been ordered, and I found, on inspecting them, that they were really and truly loaves of bread, the crust having been scraped oif, and something of the form of the fruit itself given to them, whilst tender shoots were ingeniously fastened into the end. They were almost saturated with dew, and on this account, differed sufficiently in taste fr'om the ordinary dry loaf of the table to render the deception complete to the senses of so credulous a man as Sparks. " You don't like the taste, I see," said Mouat to him ; " but you must remember they 800 JOKE PLAYED OFF require a little baking, and then you'll enjoy them." "It is a wonderful production," exclauned Sparks ; " one would scarcely beheve it. If one were to tell this in England he would be laughed at." " Mention it in your next letter home," said Hofer, " and see with what increduhty the information will be received." The coolie shouldered his httle basket, and conveyed the extraordinary fruit to the bun- galow. No sooner had we been seated at breakfast than Mrs. Hofer asked the appoo, or butler, who was waiting at table, what they had been doing with the bread to disfigure it that way, pointing to the " fruit." The appoo was silent, and looked at his master, whilst Sparks, who was sitting neai* the lady, laughed out at the inquiry, and exclaimed, " I see you don't know the bread-fruit, then, long as you have been here — ha ! ha !" "Bread-fruit!" echoed Mrs. Hofer, whilst her husband and Mouat dihgently attended to thefr breakfast alone. Sparks handed over the plate, and the lady, cutting one of the " fruit," assured him that those were not bread-fruit. UPON A " GRTFFIX," 301 but loaves ; " although how they came into their present condition," she added, " I cannot tell." The appoo was at the moment out of the room. " We gathered them from the tree tliis morning," said Sparks, " and they have only been roasted since." It was impossible to keep one's countenance, so ludicrous was the contrast between Sparks' self-satisfied confidence and Mrs. Hofer's amazement. Even she laughed, but soon checked herself. *' When people are new to Ceylon, Mr. Sparks," said she, " it is considered quite allowable — nay, commendable — to deceive them in every possible way. Those are not bread- fruit, but loaves that have been partially wetted and then baked again, the crust having first been removed. But you are not singular in being so taken in ; I have heard of the joke ha\TJig been played ofi" before, although I have never been a witness to it. Mr. Mouat, I think, first mentioned it to me." " Yes," said the worthy magistrate, " such things have been done before, and will again. It is the penalty one pays for griffinage." " And is the more successful," added the 302 DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE SPORTSMEN. la,dy, "the more amiable and confiding tlie party imposed upon." "It is well I did not write home and mention the matter," said Sparks, " as I should have done, Mrs. Hofer, had it not been for your goodness in undeceiving me." Shortly after breakfast we were all in the jungle, and had some good sport with the bu'ds, but, strange to say, not a wild quad- ruped was to be seen, and there was as yet no news from our elephant-beaters. Hofer and Lister were both equally surprised and dis- appointed, and proposed returning to the bun- galow, for which purpose we commenced ascending a steep hill near us, the native attendants in the rear, and our host in front. He had not proceeded far, when, whispering an " elk," Hofer pointed to two large antlers, which appeared between some bushes above us, and of which a sharp turn in the road gave us an excellent view. We halted, of course, to hold a council of war as to how our innocent neigh- bom' was to be dispatched. Not a single rifle of the party was found to be loaded with ball, and shot would have been useless. Lister, therefore, proceeded, as noiselessly as possible to draw his charge and reload. Whether the HERD OF ELKS. 303 animal heard the sound, or was otherwise dis- turbed, is uncertain, hut, hounding up, for he had been lying down previously, he faced us, and snuffed vigorously at the air, his broad forehead and expanding nostrils just visible through the brushwood behind which we were concealed. This was the work of . an instant, and then turning round, he began slowly to ascend the hill. The Captain advanced to the turn of the road whence we had first perceived the animal, with the intention of firing. As it ascended, however, its hind quarters were alone visible occasionally, and it would soon be altogether hid in the thick forest above. He was com- pelled to fire, therefore, at a disadvantage; the ball lodged in the animal's thigh, and, as we rushed forward we saw the broad antlers disappearing in the jungle. With all possible speed did we set forward, Fowler and I a-head, wliilst Hofer and Lister brought up the rear. At length we gained the summit of the hill over which the elk had passed, wounded as he was, with incredible speed, and before I had attained to a small clearing on the other side, I heard Fowler firing from the front and Mouat from the side. A splendid herd of elks was to 304 HERD OF ELKS. be seen from this position rushing down the hill's side into the valley, one of which Fowler had knocked over, whilst Mouat had wounded another. Just as we were on the point of making for the forest again to pursue them straight down the declivity, Fowler's Singlialese attendant whispered something to liim, and he turned off, at right angles to our former course, to the left. I did not understand the movement but followed, and as I did so, I saw Lister making in the same direction, whilst Mouat, Sparks, and Hofer continued straight down the hill side. We were now traversing the brow of the mountain, with a ravine on our right, in which the elks were proceeding in a line nearly parallel to us, but not in advance, for we had struck to the left before they had reached the bottom of the valley. It was a noble sight to see a hundred of them, dashing after each other over rocks and through jungle, in mad terror — the two unfortunate wounded ones lagging a Httle behind their companions. The ground over which we were passing was terribly harassing — thick tufted grass with occasional brush- wood, and now and then a thorny bramble creeping along the ground, as if designedly HERD OF ELKS. 305 to impede our progress. Fowler outstripped Lister and myself, and pushed on at a tre- mendous pace, whilst the lighter and less en- cumbered natives were a-head of him. The valley curved round to the left, and, if the herd could but be arrested at the angle, it might possibly be turned back to Hofer and his companions, if we could gain the proper position in time — at all events, we were sure of excellent sport. As we made our way impetuously through grass and bushes, we heard our three friends in the valley sending remembrances after the elks, and, on looking again at the herd, I was glad to see that the two wounded ones were brought down, whilst, as Sparks subsequently declared, he had taken an antler off another. On came the herd, however, in mad speed to the angle of the valley, whilst we were rushing down to secure the po- sition. Fowler and I marked the leader, and fired almost together. It fell, and, at the same moment, our Singhalese attendants raised a fright- ful din behind us. The effect was electric. In a moment confusion worse confounded was to be seen in the ranks of the enemy, and whilst one was rushing here, and another there. Lister brought down one of them with a bullet from his unerring rifle. The indecision of the herd 306 HERD OF ELKS. lasted but for a moment however, and, like an animated mass of dusty earth, they bomided up the hill to our right which we had just descended, directly towards our friend Lister. I was alarmed for his safety when I saw this new movement, but he did not seem much alarmed himself Before I could get my rifle reloaded, he discharged his remaining barrel full into the forehead of an ad- vancing elk. It fell, and, for a moment, the herd was staggered in its course, but the impulse from behind was too strong to admit of a fresh change of direction. On they swept, Lister was thrown down by the rush, and the whole herd bounded directly over him up the hill, but so swiftly and lightly did they tread their way, that, with the exception of a scratch or two, he escaped scatheless. That was the last we saw of them. In a moment they were over the brow of the hill and had dis- appeared in the jungle on the other side. I could not then understand why they had not gone straight up the opposite hill — that on the other side of the valley — but I subsequently learned it — Hofer's estate was immediately over the summit, and doubtless the elks were aware, that by taking that direction, they would have fallen into a trap — their turning to the left, however, instead of to the right, in the first NEWS OF ELEPHANTS. 307 instance, was merely the result of accident, al- tliough the Singhalese maintained that they always preferred turning to the left as it was the luckiest side. However that may be, certain it is that had they turned to the right, our party, as contra-distinguished from Hofer's, would have had no sport whatever. Our five elks formed by no means a contemptible trophy of the day's work, and when added to the jungle fowl, proved that the accounts we had heard of Ruminacaddee sport were by no means exaggerated. The day's plea- sure was wound up by a piece of news which we did not receive till coffee and cheroots had taken the place of the substantial viands of the table — - this was, that a herd of elephants had been met with ten miles to the south-east, which was slowly moving in the direction of the estate, and which had not yet been disturbed. The messenger added that they must already be within seven miles of Lanka. This was cheering news, so with an extra glass of claret to our morning's exploits, we separated early to sleep off the fatigues of the day, and to renovate ourselves for those that were to come. It was agreed, before our dispersion, that we should reassemble at five on the ensuing morning. It was about six, however, before we were all 308 PREPARING FOR SPORT. ready for tlie road — each man mounted on liis steed, and a curious collection of steeds they were, as is generally the case in mounted parties in Cey- lon. Hofer rode the same country horse, or tattoo, as they call it in the island, on which he had ac- companied me to the Peak. Captain Lister had a strong Cape horse, very hke an Enghsh hack, although too much out of condition for elegance, whether from the Captain's weight or recent hard work, cannot now be decided. Fowler had a tall powerful animal, as vicious as any horse that was ever sent from Bombay to Ceylon for sale, and that is saying much, for the good folks of Bombay when they have collected a batch of unmanageable steeds, such as they can make nothing of, are convinced that those are " the very horses for the Ceylon market" — and why ? you ask — " because Ceylon planters can ride anything." Sparks had a fine-looking charger which he had bought from an Arab in Colombo, an animal that took an inch of spur to make him trot, and had only once been seen by any one to canter. Uncle Toby bore me as usual, and, though small compared with the Cape horse and Fowler's Eozinante, was by no means the worst of the batch. Thus mounted, and accompanied by numerous coolies, bearing rifles, ammunition, suppHes and ___ _\ DESCRIPTION OF ROAD. 309 talipot leaves to construct tents in case of neces- sity, we sallied forth, eager for the fray, and augur- ing weU. from the sjDort of the previous day of that which was to come. Our road lay through a wild ravine, such as is frequently to be met with in Ceylon, where two huge mountains rise on either side, barely affording room for the torrent which roars tlirough the aperture — " It seem'd some mountain, rent and riven, A passage to the stream had given, So high the clifTs of limestone grey Hung beetling o'er the torrent's way." Beyond the occasional starting of a jungle fowl, or scaring of some apprehensive and hght-footed deer, far off on the mountain's sides or summits, there was little in the way of sport, but the scenery on our road was delightful. A succession of mountain landscapes of the most beautiful character, variegated with forest and open land, or patna, as it is here called, lay on our path — occasionally the dark shade of a hill thrown com- pletely over the valley, and half way up the side of the opposite mountain. Glowing in one place on the little brawhng rivulet that struggled noiselessly along, the sun's rays sparkled in the water, whilst, in another, the stream looked like ink from the dark shadow of the forest overhang-- ing it, which the hght never pierced. There is 310 ELEPHANT TRACKS. mucli in such scenes that powerfully arrests the attention, and prevents the impression from fading away out of the tablets of the memory. By a circuitous route we arrived at length at the position indicated by the beaters at the rear of the herd, so as to drive them fi'om the estate in the course of our shooting. Here we found a convenient spot for a hurried, but abundant col- lation, during which the plan of operations was discussed at the same time as the ham. The beaters were dispersed to the right and left of that part of the forest which the herd occupied — the most resolute however being placed on the elephant tracks, immediately in front, so as to turn them back on us when they first started. Captain Lister and Fowler took the path to the right, Mouat and Hofer that to the left, whilst Sparks and myself were left to pursue the tracks running straight up to the herd, those by wliich the elephants had passed on the previous day. In a few minutes we two were left alone with our am- munition bearers, the others having dived into the forest. We had each two rifles, one double- barrelled and one single, not grooved — rthe grooved take too long to load in dangerous sport — with a good stock of ounce zinc bullets, and a large quan- tity of Lister's excellent advice stored in our heads. THE FOE DISCOVERED. 311 On we went in the forest, eagerly listening for some signs of the foe, or for the report of our friends' rifles on the right or left of us. Not a sound was heard, however, for a quarter of an hour, during which tune we kept looking anxiously out on aU sides. At length this portentous silence was put an end to by a report on our right, only just audible amidst the din of the jungle. A few seconds afterwards, a female elephant of moderate size, without tusks, and accompanied by a young one, appeared in front, making du'ectly towards us. They were at much too great a dis- tance to render firing available, and, whilst I was exhorting Sparks to be patient, we gallantly ad- vanced to meet the foe. The mother hmped per- ceptibly as she made her way heavily through the jungle, wounded in the shoulder, whilst the young one, alarmed and excited, kept close by her side, and ever and anon bellowed forth his fears. The view which she soon obtained of us made her turn directly towards us, as if determined to have some revenue for her misfortunes. Our horses had of course been left at our temporary halting-place — and the moment the attendants perceived the monster approacliing, they climbed into the tree, at the foot of wliich we stood, leaving one rifle in our hands, and the other by our feet. No 312 YOUNG ELEPHANT. fairer target could have been presented to a marks- man than the broad forehead of the dam, as she thus boldly advanced. At length she was within twenty paces of us, and we fired together. The balls penetrated the head, but were not fatal. They were sufficient, however, to cool down the energy and boldness of her advance, for she im- mediately struck into another path to avoid us. This we were determined to prevent, and taking up our double -barrels, made across to intercept her. One shoulder was already disabled, and two balls in the other, brought her down heavily upon her fore-legs and head. Before she could rise again, two additional bullets had put an end to her struggles, and turning on her side, her trunk fell heavily to the ground. The young one up to this time had been neglected, but now, seeing liis mother down, he rushed violently towards us in attack, and, as our rifles were empty, we were obliged to beat a hasty and inglorious retreat, Sparks and I vieing with each other in the celerity of our flight. But the object of the infant monster was victory, not revenge, so after putting us thus to the right about, he returned to mourn over his mother. Our rifles were soon reloaded, and advancing boldly up to him, he fell almost immediately on the outstretched trunk of his dam. SINGHALESE FLATTERY. 313 Our servants now ventured clown from the trees, and endeavoured to remove the impression made upon our minds by their cowardice, by assuring us that master was "j)l^^^y g^^d shot" — informa- tion which we received with aU becoming modesty, glancing at the prostrate elephants, however, with no small satisfaction. We were roused from our inaction by a fright- ful din in the distance, caused by the beaters en- deavouring, by every species of earthly and un- earthly noise that they could make or invent, to turn the elephants back and prevent them break- ing away into a thick jungle in front, where pur- suit would have been impossible. We soon arrived at the highest point of the gently sloping mound we had been ascending, beyond which there was a species of valley ended far away in the distance by a similar elevation to that on which we stood. The herd were at the extremi- ties of this valley, and the object of the beaters was to prevent them making their way into the jungle beyond, wliich was of the densest and most impenetrable character. There were very few trees on the valley-like expanse before us, the ground being covered by that long wiry description of grass, which I have so often men- tioned. In the meantime it was quite evident that the awful noise which the natives were VOL. I. P 314 CRITICAL SITUATION OF making at the otlier extremity of the httle plain, was staggering the resolution of the elephants. They halted, trmnpeted, ran hither and thither, and tried to break away into the forest at either side. There, however, they were met by unerring rifles that dealt death rapidly — Lister and Fowler at one side, Hofer and Mouat on the other, taking care that they did not break off that way. At length, with loud bellowing at then* inglo- rious retreat, their trunks and tails high in the air, and the tuskers in front, the herd turned completely away from the beaters, who shouted more ferociously than ever, and, as if furies were pursuing them, on came the huge monsters directly towards the point where we were posted. To have met them then on foot would have been madness, as they were evidently paralyzed with fear, and would rush one after the other blindly, even to destruction. I therefore, chmbed a tree and chose a convenient bough for popping at them as they passed — my Singhalese servant by my side, ready to load the moment my gun was empty. Sparks could not be induced to follow my example, declaring that he was not afraid; and, notmthstanding all that I could do, insisted on remaining where he was. His attendant de- posited the rifle by his side, and was soon securely placed in a large tree in our vicinity. AU this ONE OF THE PARTY. 315 was the work of a moment or two. The ele- phants were about a mile distant when we com- menced to make our arrangements, but were getting rapidly over the ground; so, solemnly warning Sparks of the probable result of his folly, I left him to receive the meed of his temerity. It was impossible for me to assist him ; and the sacrifice of my own life, even were I disposed to make it, which I was not, would not have improved his chance of escape. A large tusker came on very much in advance of the rest of the elephants, a quarter of a mile perhaps, before the main body, which straggled here and there on either side ; still making after the leader, however. Lister and Hofer, seeing that they were determined on escaping by the way they had come, now^ left the shelter of the forest and advanced into the open space in the midst, each bringing down a straggler, before the large tusker in fi-ont had neared us. He had no sooner commenced the ascent of the rising ground on which our httle party was perched than he saw Sparks right before him, but the view neither lessened nor increased his speed — he came dog- gedly on as before, determined to escape the com- motion and destruction in the rear. He was not more than twenty paces distant when I fired full into his forehead ; but the wound was not mortal. 316 SUCCESSFUL FEINT. He gave a single bellow, stroking his forehead with his trunk, as he stiU rushed on. In a moment I heard, to my dismay and horror, |:he chck of Spark's rifle-lock, the weapon having hung fire ! The next moment Sparks liimself had fallen as if pierced through the head by a shower of zinc bullets. The elephant rushed on — in an instant he was by the side of the unfortunate young man, and putting down his trunk, roUed him over on the ground ; but there was no sign of hfe ; and, doubt- less fancying he was dead, the tusker sped on in his flight, leaving me to attend to him. I was soon by his side, and he raised himself unhurt from the ground. Before the herd had gained the brow of our httle hill, we were both safely seated on the same branch that I had just left, Sparks as- suring me that his dropping down was a feint to make the tusker fancy he was dead. I strongly suspected, however, it was the result of an over- powering sensation of fear, at seeing liimself, to all appearance, irretrievably lost — whichever it was, feint or faint, it stood him in good stead thus, for it was unquestionably the saving of his life. From the position we occupied on the tree we were able to do great execution as the huge monsters made their way with difficulty up the hill or mound, wearied with their flight, and con- RESULTS OF THE DAY. 317 fused and terrified with the din beliind. We succeeded in bringing down two, before they had all passed; one that had been severely wounded by Mouat a little before, and one that had lost an eye from a ball fired early in the fray, by whom was uncertain. In all, eight of the foe were stretched lifeless in various parts of the plain and forest, and of these, tlu'ee were tuskers. We were completely exhausted. Wliat with the ex- ertion of first making our way through the forest, and then sitting or running, exposed to the full beams of a tropical sun for a considerable period, the exertion was enough to satisfy the most in- veterate glutton of sport. A burning thirst consumed us, and I believe copious draughts of strong brandy and water, alone prevented the most serious consequences. I felt completely knocked up before we had regained the station we had left, and yet Sparks and I had had far less exertion than the others. I was glad to find that they all agreed with me on the rashness and folly of Spark's conduct in insisting on awaiting the rush of the whole herd on foot, as fifty beaters would scarcely have been sufiicient to turn them again, and although two or even tlu*ee were brought down by him at first, he must inevitably have been destroyed by the others. It must not be supposed that, in thus slaughter- 318 DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY ELEPHANTS. ing these unwieldy, but sagacious animals, the sportsman is causing wanton and useless pain and destruction of life. The elephants so aboimded in many districts, that Government offered re- wards for their destruction, whilst the injm*ies they inflicted on the coffee estates were often irreparable. Nor was it easy to make fences that would keep them out — they would walk through an ordinary fence, or destroy it in their gambols, without having the shghtest idea that it was a fence at all. Even the huge logs of the fallen timber laid diagonally on each other and kept in their position by perpendicular supports on either side, were often insufficient to withstand them. They seemed to take a miscliievous pleasm^e in showing what they could do with theu' tusks and trunks when they liked ; whilst the wild buffaloes followed their example, and between the two, the strongest fences altogether disappeared l)ut too frequently. THE PARSEES. 319 CHAPTEE X. THE PARSEES— ZOROASTER. " Call all your tribes together, praise the gods, And make triumphant fires." Coriolanus, act v., sc. 4. There was no class of the various inhabitants of Ceylon that more interested me than the Parsees. Their peculiar dress and manners strike the most indijBPerent observer, stamping them at once as a strange and, at the same time, as a superior race. The hat, covered with flowered silk or stuff, sloping gracefully back from the forehead over the head in an arched form, generally surmounts features of great regularity and often of great beauty, whilst the white robe confined at the waist, always scrupulously clean and neat, sets off to advantage figm'es generally taller than those of the Singhalese, and infinitely more graceftJ and commanding. There is an interest too excited in the breast of the most indifierent when he is 320 THE PARSEES, A informed that the man who is before him is a fire-worshipper, the descendant of those of old from the banks of the Euplirates and the plains of Chaldea, who first worshipped " all the host of heaven," that makes him long to know something of the man and of those, who, driven like the Jews from their own country, still maintain, like them, their distinctive character as a peculiar people, and the religion bequeathed to them by their ancestors. Like the Jew too, the Parsee in the countries to which he has fled, has often been the object of persecution and ill-treatment by those whom he despised as infidels and unbe- lievers. Nor has the one clung more pertina- ciously to Moses than the other to Zoroaster. Exile, misfortune, political annihilation, per- secution and wealth have equally failed to pluck the religion of their forefathers from then* breasts and to throw them stranded on the shores of foreign faiths. Strange analogy between these two peculiar people ; the one scattered over the East as widely as the other over the West ! The one as much persecuted by the followers of Mohammed, of Brahma, and of Gotama, as the other by the pretended followers of Christ, and with precisely the same result ! Like tlie Jews, the Parsees have accmnulated wealth by commerce wherever they have gone. In Canton, in Singa- PERSECUTED PEOPLE. 321 pore, in Sydney, in Calcutta, in Madras, in Co- lombo, in Bombay, in Ormuz, they have been equally successful ; and whether brought into com- petition mth the crafty Chinese, the revengeful Malays, the polite Hindus, the indifferent Budhists, the money -loving English, or the religion-loving Mussulmans, the result has been the same — dollars or rupees have been accumulated, until their wealth has become almost proverbial ; and this, notwithstanding the frowns of power and the hatred of rival creeds. In all these various places too, they have preserved themselves a distinct people, seeking no alliances with foreigners, and maintaining from Australia and China to Arabia, the same peculiar manners and customs with the faith of their forefathers. The monarchy consolidated by the successes of Cyrus, continued independent and supreme in some part of Persia until the irruption of the Saracens in the seventh century. Rising ever fresh and with renewed energy after the inroads of the Grreeks and Romans, the kingdom still maintained its sacred fire, its Zoroastrian faith, and its worship of Ormuzd, to the reign of Yezdejeerd, in the early part of the seventh century. At the battle of Kadseah, in 638, the Persian p3 322 BATTLE OF XAHAVAND. army was completely defeated by the Moham- medans, and the sacred standard lost. It was three years before the Persian monarch Yezdejeerd found himself again able to take the field for a final struggle. His army amounted to 150,000 men, and under a celebrated general named Ferozin, the fire-worshippers hoped not only to gain the victory but to revenge themselves for the losses their country had already sustained. The Saracen forces were commanded by Mazanni, acting under the orders of the Caliph Omar, and rehgious enthusiasm, together with the energy and zeal inspu'ed by a new faith, soon swelled their ranks until the numbers were nearly equal on both sides. For two months indecisive skirmishes alone took place between the armies; their leaders restrained equally by prudential motives from making any general assault. The fate of a king- dom hung upon the result of the battle; the religion of multitudes for more than a thousand years, was to be decided by the contest. If Ferozin had gained the victory Zoroaster would still perhaps have been the prophet of Persia, and his followers at the present day, instead of being ennobled by misfortune and rendered more power- ful by trials, might have been sinking mto the nerveless lassitude of the present followers of BATTLE OF NAHAVAND. 323 Mohammed. The battle was rather between the rival creeds of the fire-worshipping prophet and him of Mecca, than between the king Yezdejeerd and the Caliph Omar. At length the impatient spirit of Mazanni could be no longer restrained, and, at an obscure village called Nahavand, forty- five miles south of Hamadan, the ancient Ecba- tana, the Saracens wei^e precipitately formed in order of battle, and shouting their war-cry, " Allah Akbar," made a furious attack upon the host of Ferozin. That battle of Nahavand decided the fate of Persia. The Saracens were completely successful, immense numbers of the fire-worshippers were cut down including their general ; and Yez- dejeerd fled from the field to lead a precarious life amongst the mountains, which, it is said, lasted for ten years, when he was mm'dered by a miller whom he had offended, eight miles from Mero. Of the remainder of the host of Ferozin, such as embraced the faith of Mohammed were allowed to serve their new masters in peace, the others fled to the fastnesses of the mountains of Khorasan, or wandered away to the desolate plains of the salt desert. About half a centmy after, the descendants of these faithful Zoro- astrians assembled at the island of Ormuz to escape the persecutions of the Mohammedans, 324 FIRST APPEARANCE OF PAKSEES IN INDIA. and with the intention of ultimately leaving their country. They seem to have made their appearance in India about the year 717 of our era for the first time ; and, in the history of that country, where they took or obtained the name of Parsees, are frequently mixed up as allies of the Hindoos against their old enemies the Mohammedans, although more frequently as the objects of per- secution from both. They had conveyed with them, in their wanderings, the sacred fire, the most precious of their possessions ; and for the last thousand years the Bombay presidency, or its neighbourhood, has been the head-quarters of this much-persecuted and almost extinct nation. Under British rule, however, they have been treated with the same measure of justice as the Honourable Company deals out to all its native subjects — Mohammedans, Hindoos, and Parsees, the jDcrsecutors and persecuted, being alike sub- ject, nullo discrimine, to " Company's law." Nor, defective as that law and its administration may be, do I believe that they would prefer to it the old native rule. About 150,000 members of the community reside in the Bombay presidency ; but it is impossible to form an estimate of the probable numbers scattered over the shores of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, from Maui'itius to ZOROASTER. 325 Shanghai, from Sydney to Ormuz, the necessary data being completely unattainable.* Zoroaster, or Zerdusht, the founder of the faith now held by the Parsees, was born about 589 years before our era, at a town called Urmi, a city of Azerbijan, that province of Persia which Hes south-west of the Caspian Sea. He is va- riously called a Persian, a Mede, and a Perso- Mede by ancient writers, and is said to have been of royal descent. Aliriman, the evil spirit, says tradition, being aware of the future greatness of the prophet, united with the magicians his ^fol- lowers to try and destroy him. They tempted him and attacked him openly ; but in both cases without success. He was under the protection of Ormuzd, the spirit of good, and could not be injured. He was thrown into fire, but the fire had no power over him ; he was beset by mur- derers, but miraculously escaped; he endured temptations to which any one else would have succumbed, but did not fall. Before he was thirty years of age he retired to the mountains, leaving his family and his kindred, as he declared, by divine command ; and a minute and tedious account of liis journey is given to us in the tra- * In the preceding account I have been much indebted to Mr. G. H. Briggs' little work — " the Parsis, or Modem Zerdushtians, a sketch." 326 ZOROASTER AND ORIVIUZD. ditions of his life — this account including mira- culous displays of the most extraordinary character, such as his walking across the river Araxe on foot, without so much as wetting his feet. This journey to the Elburz mountains, the great chain that skirts the southern shore of the Caspian, is universally called by his disciples his jom-ney to heaven. It was, whilst in retirement here, that he was first introduced personally to Ormuzd, and received from him the sacred book of the faith, the Zend-Avesta, and the sacred fire. Wlien the period had arrived when he should be introduced to Ormuzd, says the Zerdusht-nameh, or account of his life, Bahman, a spirit radiant as the sun, his head covered with a veil, appeared before him, and asked, "Wlio art thou? Wliat seekest thou?" Zoroaster answered, "I seek only what is agreeable to Ormuzd, who has created the two worlds ; but I know not what he wants with me. thou, who art pure, show me the way of the law." Bahman was pleased at these words. " Else," said he, " to go before Grod ; there thou shalt receive the answer to thy request." Zo- roaster rose and followed Baliman, who said, *' Shut thine eyes ; walk swiftly." When Zo- roaster opened his eyes, he saw the glory of heaven. The angels came to meet him, and with CREED OF ZOROASTER. 327 them he approached Ormuzd, to whom he ad- dressed his prayer. From, him and the six Am- schaspands (the spirits next to Ormuzd in glory) he received his instructions, Ormuzd himself or- dering liim : " Teach the nations that my light is hidden under all that shines. Wlierever you turn your face towards the hght, and follow my coun- sel, Ahriman, the evil spirit, will flee from you. In this world there is nothing superior to Hght." The Zend-Avesta gives a particular account of the various instructions given by Ormuzd to Zoroaster, some of them of an eminently puerile character, others more exalted. " Evil does not proceed from me," said he, " but from Ahriman. My intention is not that people should suffer. Bad thoughts and bad actions come from Ahri- man. Sinners are punished in hell. Those He who say that evil comes from me." — " Who is the best of your servants?" asked Zoroaster. The answer was, " He who has a right heart ; he who is liberal with respect to justice, and whose eyes do not wander after riches ; he who does good to everything — to fire, water, and ani- mals — wiU be eternaUy happy. Those who afflict my servants, and disregard my precepts shall be sent to heU." Zoroaster asked immor- tality of Ormuzd; but was told that were it granted, he would himself be the first to desire 328 ZOROASTER AXD AHRIMAN. death — that immortahty on earth would be eter- nal misery. He likewise descended to hell and saw Ahri- man, the evil spirit. Words fail to convey an idea of the hideousness of the monster, and doubtless the imagination of Zoroaster was tasked to the utmost to give an account of his appearance, horrible and fearful enough. They abused each other roundly, sparing neither epi- thets of hatred mutually applied, nor assertions ; but what the ultimate object of the interview was, does not appear — probably it was recorded only that his followers might know something of the monster to whom they would be introduced if they did not attend to him. At length, armed with the Zend-avesta, the sacred fire, and the instructions given him by Ormuzd, Zoroaster set forth to declare his mission before the King of Persia, Gushtasp — the Darius Hystaspes of the Greeks, according to some authors. Gushtasp listened to the dis- course of the new prophet with great patience, for, in that discourse we are told, were some things that could not be understood — in the Zend-avesta are many such. The monarch took time to consider the matter, consulted with the magicians and astrologers, and ended his delibera- tion by thi'owing Zoroaster into prison. An zoroastek's miracles. 329 astounding miracle, according to the traditions of his history, alone relieved the prophet from his perilous situation, for his life was in danger. The favourite black horse of the King, according to these traditions, was found one morning with its legs so sunk and imbedded in its body that they were useless, and the animal could not stand. Physicians and ma- gicians and astrologers were called in, but could do nothing. The king was in despair, for the black steed was a pecuhar favourite — he had no other animal that he liked so well. At length a report was brought him that Zoroaster could cure the horse. The sage was brought from prison, and soon restored the charger to his master, as sound and well proportioned as before. From that time, the teaching of Zoroaster produced a wonderful impression on the King. The magicians and astrologers were forsaken for the new teacher, and disciples multiplied amaz- ingly. In every part of the wide dominions of Gushtasp the new faith was preached and taught with great success — Zoroaster continuing to surprise and astound the court by exhibitions of miraculous power. A magnificent temple was built at Persepohs to hold the sacred fire — priests and high -priests were ordained, and the entire machinery of ceremonial religion set up. Such 330 Zoroaster's death. was tlie enthusiasm of Grushtasp himself on the subject, that he ordered twelve thousand cow- hides to be tanned fine, that the doctrines of the new faith might be written upon them. These parchments were deposited in a vault hewn out of a rock in Persepolis. " Holy men were ap- pointed to guard the treasures, and the profane were kept at a distance." Zoroaster was indefatigable in spreading his faith in every direction. He took repeated journeys to Chaldea, and seems to have made many disciples in that direction, and there is even some reason for believing that either he or some of his chief emissaries made their way into India. He was thrice married, but it is said left only one daughter alive on his death. Certain it is that he exerted his influence with Grushtasp to spread his faith by the sword, and that wars were undertaken with the neighbouring sovereigns that apparently had no other object than the spreading of the Zoroastrian religion. He died about the year 512 or 513, B.C., in the 76th or 77th year of his age — nor does there appear to have been anything remarkable or miraculous related in connexion with his death. The Zend-avesta, or "the Word in the Zend language," is a work of the most extraordinary prolixity and verbosity. Much as oriental works DOCTRINES OF ZOROASTER. 331 generally are distinguished by vain repetitions and useless recapitulations, I believe it is im- possible for any to be more remarkable in this respect than the sacred book of the Parsees. It is no uncommon thing to find the same sen- tence or paragraph repeated a hmidred times in the course of a few pages, whilst the accounts of ablutions and ceremonial observances are prolix beyond what those accustomed only to the concise language of the West can conceive. The distinguishing doctrines of Zoroaster ap- pear to have been his inculcation of the existence of two spirits, both of vast power and influence in the world, the one good, the other bad — Hght the symbol and manifestation of the one, dark- ness of the other. These antagonistic prin- ciples are constantly opposing and thwarting each other, and, although the good spirit will finally prevail, the struggle between them is of the most violent character. The immortahty of the soul and the resurrection of the body were both taught by Zoroaster, and he appears to have beheved that this world, in some new and glo- rified condition, was ultimately destined to be the residence of happy saints. So constant are the references in the Zend-avesta to " Time without end," and so earnest the advice to worship it and pay it all honour, that one becomes doubtful at 332 TRACES OF FIRE- WORSHIP last whether it be merely a title of Ormuzd or a separate intelligence. Mixed up with some sub- lime truths there is perhaps more absurdity and obscenity in the Zend-avesta than in any other work in existence professing to be a divine re- velation. It ^vill by no means bear comparison with the discourses of Grotama Budlia or the sacred boohs of the Chinese edited by Confacius. The Brahminical works may perhaps vie with it in the unenviable characteristics I have named, but, if so, they alone. Some very interesting traces of fire-worship have been discovered by Mr. Layard in his re- searches at Khorsabad, and generally in the more recent sculptures unearthed by him. In one of these groups, a slender altar is seen surmounted by a cone, which, being painted red, is probably emblematical of fire. Before it stand two eunuchs, side by side, with their right hands elevated — one of them carries in his hand the mysterious basket, wliicli has caused so much conjecture. On the opposite side of the altar is a table covered with a table-cloth, on which altar is laid a bundle of wood, probably fragrant, to feed the flame. Another representation of fire-worship is engraved by Mr. Layard from Kouyunjik. Two eunuchs are again seen worshipping before the sacred fire on a slender altar, while, behind them, a man leads a goat to RECENTLY DISCOVERED. 333 tlie sacrifice. In this, as well as in tlie Kliorsabad scene, there is a table behind the altar, on which are placed objects, that look Hke bowls containing fruit. Behind the table are two poles, from which serpents are suspended by the neck, carrying on their heads an appendage closely resembling the conventional ostrich-feathers, so generally worn by the idols of Egypt. Both scenes occur in the interior of a fortified camp, but that appears to be an accidental circumstance. The appearance of the Parsee, as I have said, strikes a stranger in the East at once as remark- able. His fine aquiline nose, with well-developed nostrils, his large black eyes, his well-turned chin, his unusual length of ear, together with his heavy eyebrows and sensual lips, all mark him out as dif- ferent from the other Asiatics by whom he is sur- rounded, and stamp him with a distinctive cha- racter. He is taller, larger, and heavier in physical formation too than the Hindu or Singhalese. When young, the Parsee female is often handsome, but age comes on rapidly, making her somewhat gross in appearance for the most part, and often producing a corpulence that induces a waddhng species of gait. Her luxuriant hafr is bound with a handkerchief, called a peivan, that often forms a becoming and picturesque head-dress. If there be one 334 APPEARANCE OF THE PA USEES. 1 point in which the women of the East excel their fairer sisters of the West, it is in the silky softness of their hair. E •.'"en in the lowest ranks this advantage is apparent, and, doubt- less, in the higher, is the more strikingly so ; European females too, the daughters of European parents, brought up in early childhood in India, are superior in this respect to their occidental sisters. Doubtless, the result is caused by the greater care taken of the hair in infancy in the East, and the superiority of the Oriental manner of attending to it. The Parsee men, like the Mo- hammedans of India and Ceylon, shave the head, wearing the moustache universally, a few of them whiskers, and the priesthood only cultivating beards and permitting the hair of the head to remain. Many of the Parsees are as fair as Europeans, although invariably with the sallow tint which long residence in the East gives to all, instead of the ruddy glow of more temperate regions. In disposition they are inchned to joyfulness, generally sprightly, often jocose ; benevolent, and impulsive in their benevolence ; fond of en- tertainments and of good living. Eew are more critical respecting curries and other Oriental dishes than the Parsee, and few understand more thoroughly the mysteries of the cuisine. PAKSEE LADIES. 335 Indeed every form of sensual enjoyment, as is the case mth most Asiatics, is dear to the fire- worshippers, although they are, generally speak- ing, more refined in many respects than the natives by whom they are surrounded. Parsee ladies are intrusted with the entire economy of the household, nor would it be con- sidered more seemly amongst them, than amongst Europeans, to have the domestic management taken out of their hands. They are said to be thrifty, precise, and provident. For the most part they are better instructed than Asiatic women generally — few of them being im^able to read and write one language at least. They are dexterous in embroidery, and are often conversant with working in wool, principally of an orna- mental character. They are permitted much more liberty than formerly. Mr. Briggs says, that in Bombay, " they are even permitted to go abroad in open carriages,"* although such is cer- tainly not the case in Ceylon or in Calcutta, but they receive, with pleasure, visits from European ladies, and will return them in close covered car- riages, when they are aware that the ladies are careful not to violate their prejudices by bringing them into contact with foreign male humanity. " The Parsee commences the day by eating a * The Parsis, or Modern Zurdushtians, p. 19. 336 HABITS OF THE PARSEES. light breakfast, often no more than a slice or two of bread, and of several cups of tea, which he drinks off with a handkerchief apphed to the piece of pottery (to prevent it touching his hps). His dinner is taken between twelve and two o'clock during the day, and is served in pohshed plates of brass — ^large quantities of rice are then consumed with curry, along with a variety of pungent ingredients, ground into chitni (chutnee), stews, &c. By tradesfolks and the better classes of the community, a cup or more of tea is par- taken of, either at four or five o'clock in the afternoon. The evening meal occurs between eight and ten o'clock, when license is given, not only to beverages of variety and strength, but also to the use of hbidinous speech. The tat is the great parting draught of the night, not unlike the stirrup-cup of yore, and the more recent Scot- tish form of auld-lang-syne." I may conclude this short sketch of the Parsees by remarking, that one wife is believed by most of them to be the correct allowance, but that bigamy nevertheless is often practised, and unlimited con- cubinage almost universal amongst them. INTELLIGENT PAKSEE. 337 CHAPTEE XI. HORMANJEE. " The current that, with gentle murmur, glides, Thou know'st, being stopp'd, impatiently doth rage ; But when his fair course is not hindered. He makes sweet music with th' enamell'd stones. Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge He overtaketh in his pilgrimage ; . And so by many winding nooks he strays. With willing sport, to the wild ocean. Then let me go, and hinder not my course ; I'll be as patient as a gentle stream. And make a pastime of each weary step. Till the last step have brought me to my love ; And there I'll rest, as, after much turmoil, A blessed soul doth in Elysium." Two Gentlemen of Verona, act ii., sc. 7. During my frequent visits to Colombo, I became acquainted with a very estimable Parsee mer- chant, named Hormanjee — a man so superior even to his own countrymen, in Kberality of sentiment and unaifected admiration for everything excel- lent and praiseworthy, that I felt esteem for him the first time that I met him at my uncle's office. My visits to Colombo enabled me to VOL. I. Q 338 STOKY OF HORMANJEE. cultivate his friendship, and wliilst I talked to Marandhan of Bndhism and its founder, I talked similarly to Hormanjee of Zoroaster and his faith. At length he accepted an invitation I had repeatedly given him to visit me in the jungle, and higlily interesting and intellectual were liis meetings and discussions with my Budhist friend Marandlian. Never did the neat little bungalow which Eoquelaire had fitted up with so much taste, appear so comfortable to me, as when I had my Parsee and my Budhistic friend on either hand — both men of intelligence and of reflection — both men who had seen the world, and thought much of what they saw. Their conversation was an intellectual treat of no ordinary character. During Hormanjee's stay with me, I persuaded him to give me an account of his life, which I took care shortly afterwards to transcribe. " I was born in Calcutta," he began ; " my father Manuckjee, was a merchant there of some note, and I was early initiated into the mysteries of the counting-house. He saw Httle of European society, for the Anglo-Indian population of Cal- cutta, and indeed of India generally, is less condescending to Orientals than their poorer brethren in Ceylon. Our house in the Circular Road, to the east of the town, was a large one STORY OF nORMANJEE. 339 with a spacious garden attacliecl, a tank or pond and statuary ornamented the garden, and several beautiful groves of trees. For a time my boyish life was one of great happiness and content, for m}^ mother was a superior woman and early trained me to piety and reflection. As I became ac- quainted with the various productions of different countries however, and read works describing travels and voyages, my mind began to expand, and I ardently longed to see something of the world of which I heard and read so much. I became discontented with the narrow circle in which I moved, and longed to explore the won- ders of the West particularly. My parents, and especially my mother, were by no means prepared to forward my wishes in tliis respect, and I became gloomy in consequence. At length, wdth womanly tact, when I had passed my sixteenth year, she endeavoured to divert my mind from ideas of foreign travel by the gentle but all-powerful influence of love. " One evening as I was walking in a discon- tented mood, through the groves of our garden, I heard a sweet melodious voice singing a hymn to the sun, accompanied by the lute, the sounds issuing from an alcove at some distance, which was generally set apart for the female portion of our household. I stopped and Hstened atten- q2 340 STORY OF H0RMA2fJEE, tively. I had certainly never heard that voice before — it was completely new to me, and whilst its melody enchanted me its novelty equally excited my curiosity. I walked quietly over the grass leading to the bower. A low shrubbery alone intervened between me and the open alcove, in which a party of ladies were seated. My mother and my favourite sister were there, but the majority I had never seen before. The alcove was completely open ; several gothic arches were supported by graceful stone pillars made as light as possible, round which fragrant creepers were entwined, until they reached the roof, where they united into a thick mass of leaves and flowers. The party within consisted of five ladies, of whom tliree were utterly miknown to me. I was sur- prised at tliis, as you are aware that we Parsees practise no concealment of our females like the Mohammedans or Hindoos, but, on the contrary, approve of their mingling, to a certain extent, with all of our own creed. I had seen then, I thought, all the Parsee ladies in Calcutta of any pretensions to wealth, and yet here were three, a mother and two daughters apparently, who, to judge by their dress, must have been extremely wealthy, who in fact must have been our equals, or I should never have seen them there. " In the centre of the alcove stood a small marble STORY OF HORMAXJEE. 341 pedestal of no great height, on wliich it had been originally intended to place a statue, but through some inadvertence or caprice, it had been left unoc- cupied. Upon this the youthful songstress stood as she addressed the beneficent Ormuzd, with the fervour and grace of youth and purity. Her form, which was but beginning to mould itself into the rich fulness of womanhood, was beauti- fully displayed by her close-fitting vest and wide trowsers, and as she stood gazing into heaven, it formed a striking contrast with the group seated at her feet. The Hght fell full upon her delicate face and picturesque head-dress — a head-dress, a,s you must be aware, equally removed firom the clumsiness of the turban and the unmeaning ugli- ness of the European bonnet. A single feather drooped gracefully upon her shoulder, its un- sulhed whiteness forming a picturesque contrast with the black shining hair wliich escaped in rich braids beneath her cap. The lute, leaning lightly on her left arm, wliich was bare, after our custom, from above the elbow, was of satin-wood inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and as she swept her delicately small fingers over its chords, her voice gave utter- ance to such sounds as the nightingale warbles when she would attract her mate and call him home from wandering. Such was the position, such were the circumstances under which I first 342 STOKY OF HORMANJEE. saw Amoosta. Can you wonder then that I should have been smitten with love at once, or that I should have inwardly vowed, with Oriental impetuosity, that she, and she only, should be the wife of Hormanjee ? The hymn or invocation ended, she leaped hghtly upon the floor, smiling with a bewitching charm that com- pleted in my mind the fascination which her features, her attitude, and her song had com- menced. Her sister then attempted a similar piece, but I had no eyes, no ears for any one but Amoosta. She placed herself beside her mother, and as she gazed upwards at the performer, her face caught a new beauty from the shade into which it was now thrown. She had applause and commendation for all — there v/as no reserve, no lingering jealousy in the hearty plaudits she bestowed upon the performance of her two more youthful companions. " It would have been rude and impudent to interrupt the ladies' privacy upon such an occa- sion. So I contented myself with feasting my eyes to the full, until the approach of night drove the fair worshippers into the house ; and shortly afterwards I saw a close carriage, such as Parses ladies are accustomed to use in Calcutta, drive away from the female quarter of our dwelling. I subsequently learned that the wife and daughters STORY OF HORMANJEE, 343 of Halbin Kowasjee had just before this become residents of Calcutta, on his transferring thither the head-quarters of his celebrated mercantile house from Canton, — a house as well known in the East, as that of the Eothschilds' in the West. Amoosta was then the daughter of the great Kowasjee, my mother was evidently intimately acquainted with her and with her mother, and I saw no reason why I should not succeed in bear- ing off this great prize as my bride. I mentioned the matter to my parents. My mother was de- lighted, and confessed to me that she had hoped for this. The very means she had taken to keep me at home, however, resulted in sending me abroad to see the world. " The intimacy between the two famihes ripened into a friendship, and at length the matter was men- tioned to the parents of Amoosta. They were weU pleased with the proposal, for Amoosta had ex- hibited a very heretical predilection in favour of Enghshmen, and was known to have frequently spoken contemptuously of the young men of her own nation and faith. Her parents hoped, there- fore, that her wild ideas would end with her mar- riage, and that the comparatively cultivated and polite Parsee of Calcutta might be more acceptable to her, than his more unlettered comitrymen in China. When her mother mentioned it to the maiden, however, as the marriage which they had 344 STORY OF HORMANJEE. decided upon for her, she, with great perverse- ness, insisted upon regarding it only as a propo- sition that had nothing definite in it, and was never hkely to be reahzed. At length, when pressed upon the subject, and when she saw that her father and mother had both firmly set their minds upon it, she told them they might sacrifice her, if they so willed, that she was bound to obey their commands, and she would do so, even though she went to certain misery, but that, if she were allowed a private interview with Hormanjee, of only a few minutes duration, he would no longer seek her hand, and yet she should tell him nothing but the truth. ' Zardusht !' exclaimed old Kowasjee, ' how wilful the maiden is ! This comes of teaching girls to read. Rightly does the Zend-avesta declare, that the wild roes of the mountains may he tamed, the mules of Tar- lary made to hear burdens, the zehras of Africa converted hito gentle palfreys, hut the wilful heart of a maid who has set her mind on folly, is not to he turned hy gentle entreaty or rude opposition. Hormanjee is a lad of sense, however ; I shall pre- pare him for the interview, and though it some- what violates etiquette, she shall have her wish, and I will myself present their first-born before the Amschaspands, and the throne.'* * The throne of Ormuzd ; the Amschaspands, according to Zoroaster, are six great spirits surrounding that throne. STORY OF HORMANJEE. 345 " An interview of the kind required by Amoosta, was of an unprecedented character in Parsee life, and it was not without many misgivings that my mother at length consented to it. As for me, nothing could equal my anxiety to know what revelation she had to make to me, nothing could be stronger than my determination, after Kowas- jee's lecture, to persevere in making her my wife — nothing, but my love for her. It was before the altar on which we sacrificed to Zoroaster, that the decisive interview took place. Amoosta was ra- diant as a bride, and the sorrow and shame which contended in her countenance, rendered her only the more enchanting, whilst on my side, I had spared no pains with my toilet, to prove to her that even a Parsee might look well. She saluted me with a low salaam, and I returned it with all the grace of which I was master. Then advancing towards me, and looking me full in the face, as though her large blue eyes would pierce through me, sparkling as they were with excitement ; she extended her hand to me, after the manner of you Occidentals. I put it gently to my lips, as I had read gallant men did in the West, and then, to express my love, I faintly pressed and shook it. ' Hormanjee,' said she, smiling, *I am sui-e you would not render me wretched.' ' No,' said I, ' by om' holy prophet, Amoosta, I would make q3 346 STORY OF HORMANJEE. you happy, rather than anything else in this world.' ' Then do not marry me, Hormanjee,' she said quickly, at the same time taking my hand in both of hers, — ' do not marry me, and putting maiden modesty aside, I will kiss you — I will kiss you fondly, Hormanjee.' I knew not what to say. Kowasjee and his admonitions were quite forgotten, and, even when she looked most enchanting, and was taking the very means to make me love her more, I resolved to resign her. ' You hate me then?' I asked. * Oh, no, no, no, indeed I do not, — I do not, Hormanjee, — ^in- deed I do not,' and as she thus earnestly ex- claimed, she burst into a flood of tears. I threw my arm round her slight figure, and pressed her to my bosom. ' You love some one else?' I asked, whilst I kissed her smooth fair forehead, as it reclined upon my shoulder. ' No, Hor- manjee,' she repHed again, looking into my eyes, from the azure depths of her own, — * no, Hor- manjee, indeed I do not.' * Then why do you not want me to marry you ?' * It is a secret,' she whispered, looking down upon the floor. ' A secret, Amoosta, and may I not know it, — you cannot tell it me, perhaps.' I pitied her much, for she wept bitterly. ' Yes, yes, I can tell you,' she hastily exclaimed ; ' but you will never tell my parents, or any one who will, or STORY OF HORMANJEE. 347 who may, tell my parents,' she added, after a pause. ' I will never tell it to a living soul. I swear, Amoosta, by Zarduslit himself, never shall it be breathed by me, unless you yourself release me from my oath.' So saying, I bent my fore- head upon the altar. * I took a vow,' said she, * not very long ago, never to wed one who had not crossed the great ocean — who had not seen that wonderful West, whence the strong rulers of the East come ; time was, when the East ruled the West, and still it does intellectually, for we have given them a philosophy and a religion, false as both may be, but the West now rules the East with the strong hand, and the man who has not seen these strong men in their own country, who has not crossed the seas as they do, shall never be the husband of Amoosta.' ' Beloved Amoosta,' I exclauned, ' your desires and my own are identical. I too, have longed to see these rulers of the world in their own homes, to pry into the secret of then- power. I have demanded per- mission to go, times without nmnber. Now your wishes shall be accomplished, and I shall retui-n two years hence to claim my bride. Is it not so, Amoosta?' ' Yes, Hormanjee,' she whispered, ' let it be so, for I love you as woman only can love. But remember, not a word of my vow,' and so, imprinting a kiss upon my hand, before I 348 STORY OF HORMANJEE. could anticipate it, she left me alone by the altar of the prophet. " Kowasjee and my father, were equally anxious to know the result of the unwonted conference. ' Kowasjee, thou art my father,' said I, touching his robe with respect, ' but this marriage may not be for years — for two years at least. At the end of that time I will ask for Amoosta's hand.' ' Did you not say he was near seventeen years of age?' asked Kowasjee. My father assented. ' And she is fifteen, — marvellous truly are the councils of the foolish. To think that at our age we should have been thus duped ! We should have wedded and bedded them, and I warrant me there would have been no more talk of putting off. ^Qiy did we not remember, that as geese hatch goslings, even so will folly be the result of the conference of a youth and of a maiden, — if, indeed, she be still — .' '-This must surely be some idle wliim,' said my father, interrupting him. ' Does Amoosta consent to this postpone- ment?' ' She wishes it lil^e myself,' I repHed. ' I warrant it, she does,' said her father, ' were there any wisdom in it, she would oppose it with all her might. Adieu, Manuckjee, — it is like eating sour mangoes, to hear that youth talking. Amoosta shall wed six months hence at furthest, or I shall know why not. I cannot afford to STOKY OF HORMANJEE. 349 wait three years for a grandson. Adieu, Ma- nuckjee, adieu. As for you, Sir,' he said, turning to me, ' there is a new lunatic asyhim, not yet full, I hear, in Sealdah, — you had better enquire about it.' " In a month, all my preparations for departure to England had been made. I was at length to see that western world I had sighed after and longed to witness so frequently. The parting with my parents and my sister was a melancholy one, for they looked upon me as doomed; they considered it impossible that I should ever return in safety. For my own part, I did not leave them with that equanimity with which I had anticipated I should. My heart was sad, and it was not without a foreboding of disaster and misery that I left my father's roof The vessel in which I was to sail to Mocha was an English one, consigned to our own house, and in which, therefore, I had every reason to expect attention and as much comfort as a merchant-ship can usually afford. The captain was a good sailor, but, otherwise, uncultivated, and looked upon me more as an extraordinary animal of great value, which he was carefully to deliver up in a sound and safe condition to the agents at Mocha, than as a human being like himself, capable of being an acquaintance or a companion. I had a cabin 350 STOKY OF HORMANJEE. to myself, my own servant, and every attention was paid to me, in order that I should feel myself as much at home as possible. My meals, dif- fering, of course, slightly as they did from those of the officers and two European passengers, were served separately ; but I always joined the party in the saloon after dinner at wine, and found the free conversation wliich then prevailed both amusing and instructive. On the first night only during which we were actually at sea did I find myself brought into any unpleasant collision with anyone on board ; and I mention the inci- dent in order to show the contrast between my ideas and actions on leaving India and those wliich I insensibly acquired, and became accus- tomed to, in England. Whilst we were in the river, I generally retu'ed early, getting up equally early in the morning, in order to present my usual adorations to the sun, which I was com- pelled to offer up on deck, as my cabin was upon the starboard side, and I could not see him rise from it. When we were actually at sea, how- ever, and I could gaze around our vessel upon every side without seeing land, I sat up to write to Amoosta, for my mother had promised to be a medium of communication between us, and I re- solved to give her a full account of my journey and my impressions. Ten o'clock, or four bells, STORY OF HORMANJEE. 351 had struck, and shortly after a seaman rapped at my door. * Come in,' said I. ' Ten o'clock, Sir/ said he; 'must put out the Hghts.' I smiled at his talking so indiiFerently of what we regard as a heinous crime — to extinguish by any sacri- legious act the very emblem and embodiment of the Deity upon earth. ' My lamp will not bum much longer,' said I; 'but I cannot put it out/ * It's the rules of the ship, Sir, and the captain's orders. All the lights to be out at ten o'clock. The hght must be put out, Sir.' ' The hght must not be put out in my presence, or with my consent,' I rephed, with some warmth ; ' nor had I any idea the captain would have either urged or permitted such an insult to me as to talk of it/ ' Oh, far from insulting you. Sir, he gave us all orders to do our utmost to make you com- fortable, and to show you every respect ; but this is the rules of the ship, you know.' ' I have nothing to do with the rules of the ship,' said I, testily. ' Begosh, but you have, Sir, as long as you're in it,' he urged. ' It's contrary to my rehgion ; it would be a crime if I either did it myself, or suffered it to be done in my presence/ said I ; ' leave me, and I will talk to the captain about it to-morrow.' A new Hght seemed to break in upon the honest seaman as I said this, and he muttered something to himself about 352 STORY OF HORMANJEE. seeing how it was ; he evidently thought I was mad. How strange that it should ever be thus with mankind ; that the sincerest and most honest convictions of one portion of the human race should be looked upon as absurdities and madness by another ! The seaman, after a mo- ment's hesitation, advanced to the table, and was about to seize the lamp, or to extinguish it, when I prevented him, by putting it quickly aside- 'You shall not put out that light,' said I, 'till you have killed me ;' and so saying, I grasped a stout walking-stick which was near, and placed myself in front of it. ' 0, well,' said the sailor, ' if you're goin' to be obstropelous hke that, I'll send down the officer of the watch.' So saying, he left the cabin. I never heard any more about my light, nor was any attempt made, for the future, to prevent my burning it as I pleased ; although I generally contrived so to trim the lamp as that it should expire a little after ten. The sailors, however, from that day forth, re- garded me as insane, and many were the whis- pered conversations I noticed amongst them as I paced the quarter-deck. " The captain's estimate of me, as a species of curiosity, was not much more flattering than the seamen's idea of my insanity. I frequently went up to the main-top, particularly in the mornings, STORY OF HORMANJEE. 353 when that horrid operation of washing the decks rendered any refuge at a distance agreeable ; be- sides that, from the elevation of the main-top, an excellent view could be obtained of the rising sun. On such occasions, I noticed that I was invariably followed by a seaman, who, whilst he pretended to have some employment in my im- mediate vicinity, kept liis eye constantly upon me. For some days I took no notice of this extraordinary Mentor ; but at length, when it became quite apparent that the man had really nothing to do but to watch me, I asked him on one occasion whether he always worked in that spot in the mornings. He was an Irishman, and liis strange method of speaking, which I could understand with difficulty only, interested me. ' Why thin now, your honour's highness, but it's splicin' a rope I am,' said he. ' But have you a rope to sphce here every morning at this time?* I asked. ' Och, shure and there's always a power to do that a way on boord ship, your highness,' he answered, still working away with imper- turbable coolness. ' But do the ropes always want spHcing here, man?' I asked pointedly. 'Are they always breaking about the main-top, and about the main-top only, that you come here regularly every morning when I am here, and only when I'm here?' * Shure thin now, and 354 STORY OF HORMANJEE. your honour's highness is as 'cute as a weasel,' he urged. 'Begor, it 'd be as aisy to bate Banagher himself, as to bate your honour's high- ness any way; and shure enough we all know who the same Banagher bate.' I could not help smiling at the ingenuity wdth which he avoided my question; but, determined to explore the matter, I repeated it nearly in the same words. 'Why, thin now,' he began, 'the divil a use it is at all at all to thry and desave your honour's highness ; he 'd be a mighty cliver boy intirely that 'd catch your highness dozing, even with one eye shut; but I hope your honour's highness is'nt angry at my comin' here ; shure an' now I'll sing you a song, or do anything in rason, to make myself agreeable.' 'You will not tell me, then, why you follow me here?' I asked again, but this time dryly and coldly. ' "Wliy thin, tare an' ages, but to be shure I will, if so be your highness wants it ; shure it is'nt goia' to be angry with me you'd be, for obeyin' the capting's own orders.' ' The captain, then, ordered you to follow me whenever I came aloft ; and for what purpose ?' I asked. ' Wliy thin, now your high- ness, but shure you're goin' on at the rate of a hunt. Sorra' one o' me ever said the capting ordered me to follow you ; tlio' for the matter o* that, pm'shum' to the he it'd be afther all.' STORY OF HORMANJEE. 355 ' The captain, then, did order yon to follow me up here?' I urged. ' 0, begor he did, your high- ness ; now that you've found it out, I don't mind tellin' you all about it, an' makin' a clane breast of it, at onst,' he said com'ageously. A rupee still further opened his hps, and he proceeded. ' Why thin, the long and the short of it's jist this. " Thady," says the capting to me ; "Thady," says he. "Ay, ay, your honour," says I. "Thady," says he, ''do you see the furrin gintleman that's goin' up aloft ?" says he. " It'd be mighty quare if I did'nt, capting," says I ; "for I never tuk my eye off him from the minit I seed him a layin' a hould o' the riggin'." *' Shure, an' it's a wonder, Thady," says he, " that he can go up at all at all wid them shoes he wears, wid a toppin' at the end of thim, for all the world like the end of a marhn spike curled up." " Thrue for you, Sir," says I ; "a more active gintlemin, or a cleverer, Thady never clapt liis two eyes on ; there's not a man in the ship could go up them rattlins with all that head-gear and thim cmied toes, widout bein' in mortial fear of goin' overboord." " Well, Thady," says the capting, says he ; " you're a smart fellow, Thady," says he, and begor it was them very words he spoke ; " you're a smart fellow, Thady," says he ; "jist go up with the prince," says he — " after him," says he — " take a 356 STORY OF HORMANJEE. rope up to splice," says he, "and have an eye upon him," says he. "Begor, an' I'll do that, your honour," says I ; " tho' I niver seed a gintleman, let alone a prince, that wanted it less," says I, "if it wasn't always barrin' the toes and the head- gear." That's the long and the short of it, your honour's highness, and the divil a he in it ; an' shure if it's angry you do be gettin', I'll make myself scarce at onst.' " Notwithstanding the difficulty I had in com- prehending his extraordinary Enghsh, yet I made out sufficient to understand the matter, and to perceive that my friend Thady might be a very agreeable companion ; so I said no more about it. Morning after morning, as I took my accustomed place, Thady made liis appearance at no great distance, always sphcing with praise- worthy dihgence, and at the same time ' keeping an eye,' as he would have said, upon me. I sometimes thought they feared I might jump overboard ; for if I rose more swiftly or abruptly than usual, Thady was at my side in a moment. He was an amusing companion, however, and I learned much from him respecting the unfortunate country from which he had come. " At Bombay I was warmly received by the members of our community, who were much in- terested in my journey, the young envying me STOEY OF HORMANJEE. 357 the pleasure and excitement I could not fail to enjoy, the old exhorting me to continue stedfast in our holy faith. At length, furnished with abundant letters to Egypt and to England, I embarked for Mocha, the destination of our ship, and which I longed to reach, that I might say I had left India behind me, and had fairly stepped forth into the world. It was not with- out a feeling of sorrow that I remembered we were leaving the sacred country of our faith on our right hand, swiftly passing it by, and tliat there was little chance of my seeing the elevated plains of Azerbijan, where Zoroaster had first dehvered his message from Ormuzd and the sacred fire, to the custody of the King Grushtasp. Im- petuous Mohammedanism had driven our fathers thence with the sword, and their children, instead of uniting to seize the country afresh, were con- tent with their merchandise and their profits, neglecting all besides. WiU the day never come when the evils Mohammedans have brought upon Persia, and upon India, shall be expiated in the blood of their descendants ! " Mocha, from the Hed Sea, is a picturesque- looking town. It and its neighbourhood form so pleasant a contrast with the bleak shores of Arabia and Africa, that it seems the centre of an oasis in the midst of frightful rocks and desola- 358 STORY OF nORaiANJEE. tion. Its white houses and glittering minarets gleam in the sunshine, in beautiful contrast to the green verdure and foliage by which it is sur- rounded, whilst, far away to the north and south, the uniform yellow line of bare rocks and desert stretches away to the horizon, leaving, upon the mind of the beholder, an idea of vast desolation which oppresses the spirits. A nearer inspection of the town, however, by no means reahses the flattering idea one would form of it from the sea — its houses, for the most part white certainly, are low and gloomy -looking, its streets narrow, filthy, and sombre, through which the proud Musselmans stalk silently to prayers or upon their business, their taciturnity only broken by the curse, or the contempt, or the pity which they gratuitously bestow upon the infidel. The followers of Mo- hammed and of Zoroaster can never be reconciled, and. Orientals though they were, I felt much more lonely and isolated amongst the populace of Mocha than in the crowds of London, " I lost no time in embarking for Cosseir, in Egypt, between which town and Mocha a very considerable traffic is carried on. If I had dis- liked Mocha, however, I was still less pleased with the miserable port of Cosseir, where wretched- ness of every description delights to expose itself to the broad light of day ; where the stranger can- STORY OF HORMANJEE. 359 not steal from his house without being surrounded and followed by a motley group of mendicants, all anxious to prove their wretched condition, by ex- hibiting their disgusting sores and deformities — Abyssinians, Nubians, Kopts, and even the fol- lowers of the impostor of Mecca, so proud else- where, all vying with each other in ostentatious mendicancy, and in the exhibition of their misery. " I was more than recompensed however for the discomfort and filth of Mocha and Cosseir by the sail down the Nile from Denderah to Cairo. I had hired a comfortable boat with an ample crew, and as we proceeded leisurely down this celebrated stream, I examined the various works on the antiquities of Egypt, with which Enghsh literature abounds, and which I liad taken care to provide before leaving Calcutta. It is a strange feeling that one experiences, when brought face to face with the great works of antiquity — it is a feel- ing not to be easily forgotten, and perhaps there is no greater incentive to glory, or a thirst for glory, than to stand before the ruins of what has long been glorious ; the heart expands as though it would embrace the past and pry into the future, in its reveries, — it feels that it is not so much what we do now or what we enjoy now, as what we leave beliind us, when our fretful hour of hfe has ended, that we shall be judged by. Wlio that 360 STOKT OF HORMANJEE. has stood before the mounds of Deir Selin, the ruins and tombs of Siout, or the pyramids that strew the left bank of the Nile between Beni-Souef and Jizeh, has not wished that he too might leave something behind him, as a mark to posterity, even though it should only be a monstrous tomb ? And yet how strange that all these monuments that stir the soul so deeply should be but sepul- chral mounds j everytliing in Egypt tells of death, its greatness is more apparent in its tombs and catacombs than in any remains that indicate life and action and vigour ! Strange that structures, every line of which speaks of repose, of death, of stillness, of eternity, should powerfully rouse the soul to action and make one feel that ' twenty centuries look down ' upon him from these mighty monuments. " You can fancy, from your experience of Ceylon, that a moonhght sail upon the Granges, the Bhagi- rati, or the Hooghly, is a delightful thing. After the heat of the day, when the moon has risen in all her silvery splendour, not obscure or dim as in the north, but throwing down floods of light, what can be more pleasant than to watch the dark shadows of the foliage on either side, form- ing so beautiful a contrast with the glowing water, if it be peaceful and at rest, whilst the boat ghdes noiselessly downwards with the current. STORY OF HORMANJEE. 361 There is something in a scene like that, which makes one desu-e solitude to enjoy it thoroughly — it is not a thing that can be talked about at the time. This pleasure is even increased upon the Nile. Small as the stream is in comparison with the gigantic floods of India — at least, small as it was in the dry season when I saw it — it yet presents more striking contrasts, a greater variety of the picturesque, than the rivers of India. The foHage is as various, — the banks are more frequently covered with pictm'esque villages, — oc- casionally a glimpse is obtained of apparently illimitable deserts, shining in all the blankness and desolation of soHtude far away to the right hand and to the left ; one turns from its mono- tonous sameness to the variety of the river with something of the feehng experienced after having travelled through an interminable forest, when an unexpected ghmpse is afforded of cultivated plains, or fruitful valleys. But, more than all this, and adding a charm to such a scene which probably the world cannot supply to the same extent elsewhere, are the monuments of antiquity so tliickly studded on every side. Everything in Egypt is grouped on the banks of the river; life and death are there brought into constant and strange juxtaposition — the mud-cabin of to-day beside the venerable ruin VOL. I. R 362 STORY OF HORMANJEE. of two thousand years ago — the waving of the living trees of yesterday beside the immovable monuments of dead antiquity. I felt, as we gHded down the stream, that there were thoughts and feelings Ijing deep in the heart which travel only could cultivate ; which, without travel, would probably for ever remain dormant. " The mosques and palaces of Cairo and Alex- andria did not detain me long. I had seen the past in Egypt, and I now hurried on to inspect the present, in London. Absorbed as I was with anxiety to visit the great metropolis, I felt httle interest in Malta and Gibraltar ; I rather felt glad, indeed, when the vessel's prow was turned from them, and we plunged onwards towards the island, of which, from the time that I could lisp a syllable, I had heard so much. It is not to be wondered at, that the Oriental, who had been brought up in India, should regard England and London with even greater interest than the Englishman does Greece and Eome.. Were they living Greece, and living Eome — the Greece of Pericles, and the Eome of Augustus — they would then but faintly shadow forth in interest to the Englishman, what England is to the Indian. " At length the dull haze, and overhanging smoke were pointed out to me, as the signs of the great city. As we drew nearer and nearer, I was STORY OF HORMANJEE. 303 stupified by the din, and confounded by the bustle,w hich met my ears, and assailed my eyes on every side. I could see nothing but masses of men and women, and horses, rushing in various directions, as if life or death depended upon the struggle — and truly, life or death does depend upon the struggle in too many instances. Eising amongst the smoke and dimness which enveloped ever}H:hing, were great sphes and domes, monu- ments and statues, the proportions of which were only faintly discernible ; whilst distinctly, amidst the confasion, was to be received this idea, and this only — that an immense mass of humanity was in earnest about something or other ; whether guiding horses, or carrying bundles, or torturing minerals and vegetables into new forms, or plough- ing up the waters of the unfortunate river, by thousands — whatever they were doing, they all seemed thoroughly in earnest — there was no child's play, no acting of a part — if they would not struggle, they might not Hve, seemed the law of their existence. Sunday seemed alone the day on which they were not in earnest. Then they were listless and apathetic, or else incapable of being earnest about anything, for the most part. Then the women seemed to have assumed the character the men had put ojff. They crowded earnestly to the places of worsliip ; the men sauntered indiffe- R 2 364 STORY OF HORMA]SrjEE. rently along. I could see no greater contrast than between the man pressing forward on his daily business, or to enjoy some pleasure on a week-day, and the same man on the Sunday, roll- ing apathetically to church; a female on each arm, perhaps, giving the impetus. It is not so in the East. If Mohammedans or Hindoos are ever in earnest, it is in their worship. " I was received with the warmest kindness and hospitahty by friends of our house to whom I had introductions. Men, high amongst the mercan- tile communit}^, who, had they been in Calcutta, would feel ashamed of my occupying a seat at their tables, insisted upon having me at their residences — would not hear of my engaging apartments at a hotel. My first residence was at Bayswater — my host dri\dng in everj^ day to the city, whither I generally accompanied liim, for I deHghted to see the bustle of that extra- ordinary hive, and loved to roam about in it, merely to observe. The lions of the great me- tropolis were duly shown to me ; but I saw none so marvellous as Fleet Street, Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, and London Bridge. These are the true wonders of London — its paltry parks and gloomy squares cannot be compai'ed with the palaces and gardens of the East ; but its incessant toil and bustle, its work, its tlironged shops and STORY OF HORMAXJEE. 365 paths, its mj^iads of active, busy men, its noble horses, earnest in their avocations as their masters, — these are truly wonders, such as one cannot see elsewhere, and in these is much of the success of Englishmen explained. Steady perseverance is the secret of their wonderful career, and j^et that perseverance would probably have effected little, had it not been dkected by an energy as indomitable as itself. " I visited Paris, and there the foundations of my peace of mind were sapped, and the train laid for a long series of subsequent misfortunes. There I saw more splendid buildings, more magnificent galleries, more highly ornamented pubhc ways, but I saw nothing like Fleet Street or the Strand, nothing to compare with Cheapside or London Bridge. Paris is certainly as much more magni- ficent than London as the Place de la Concorde than Trafalgar Square. London is as much more business-Hke than Paris as Ludgate Hill is more crowded than the Pue St. Honorc, There is splendour, magnificence, grandem-, and display in the one, there is more homely earnestness and truth, laborious toil and incessant advance, in the other. The fountains of the Place de la Concorde and those of Trafalgar Square may be taken as samples of the two. The former are grand but seldom play, the latter are homely but are daily 366 STORY OF HORMANJEE. at work, as though they should say, ' Our duty is to squirt this water to a certain height for so many hours a-day, and witness ye men and gods that we do it, with all our might.' " I have said that at Paris was laid the foun- dation of a sea of troubles in which I was long darkly swimming, almost without hope. In order to avoid observation as much as possible, I had completely adopted the European dress, and, however dark I may look in our white angraka, in the black broadcloth of England, I looked light enough to be often taken for a Frenchman. The family with which I stopped in Paris was an English one, that had long been resident there. They conducted me to every point of attraction, and I was dazzled and intoxicated by the splen- dour and gaiety which seemed everywhere to prevail. In an over anxious endeavour not to be singular, I had made it a rule to frequent the table of my hosts, and often were the most sacred principles of my faith outraged in my presence. Yet I would not be singular. I wished to re- semble the people who were round me, and said nothing. Pork was consumed by my neighbour, whilst he smilingly addressed me, and the very hand that helped me to something in the vicinity was probably engaged a moment before in cutting up a slice of ham ! Nor was tliis all. Candles STORY OF HORMANJEE. 367 and lamps were extinguished with a levity that sent a shudder tlu'ough my soul ! Alas ! in put- ting off my Parsee garments, I was forced to smother, at the expense of my conscience, many Parsee ideas ! I knew that I was doing wrong, yet I had not the moral courage to confess my error and retrace my steps. " I was passionately fond of the theatre. Never had I conceived it possible that mortal voices and mortal frames could produce the enchantment of the opera, and I delighted in constantly attend- ing it. Had I remained in Europe till this hour, I do not think I should have lost my relish for that exquisite amusement. My friends accom- panied me frequently, and I took a pleasure in trying the different effects of different seats. On one of these occasions, when I had engaged a pit box for our party, I saw one who, for a time, was the joy and misery of my life. She was leaning from a box at a short distance from ours, and in the same tier, when I first caught a ghmpse of her. I too was leaning forward at the time, and, for a second, our eyes met ; it was to me as if a flash of lightning had rapidly dazzled my vision. She retired into her box again, and there, hid by an envious curtain, I could see no more of her. Yet I could think of nothing else. The play, the singing, my friends were forgotten, and abruptly 308 .STORY OF IIORMAIs'JEE. quitting my position I made my way into the pit, in order that I might obtain a full view of the face that had produced upon my mind so electrical an effect. I thought I saw a faint smile upon her lips, as she recognised me, and I was delighted at it. It is possible, thought I, that some strange sympathy links our spirits together, and that I may have made an impression upon her mind, as she upon mine. Her hair, which was of the lightest golden coloui', waved over her shoulders in long ringlets. She was a complete northern beauty, but v/ith the bright hazel eyes of the south, almost too spiritual and nervous for the glow of health which animated her cheek. A simple wreath of light flowers encircled her head, and formed a pleasing contrast to the bright golden hue of the mass above them and below ; her arm, full and delicately white, reposed upon the crimson cushion in front of her, and the thought struck me at the moment that its pro- portions were perfection itself, and that any deviation from those proportions must be erro- neous. My gaze, however, was too full and bold, for, at the close of tlie act, she changed places with a lady beside her, evidently in order that she might be again hidden from my view by that envious curtain. I saw and acknowledged the reproof, and, retui'ning to the box I had left. STORY OF HORMANJEE. 369 apologised, as best I could, for my abrupt de- parture. " Twice again, and twice only, in tlie course of that evening, did I gain a glimpse of my fair charmer, but those glimpses were sufficient to rivet the fetters with wliich I was already bound. I tried to think of Amoosta, but I could not. The fair northern had usurped her place, and the more classical beauty of the East was, for a time, dethroned. I noted the box in which she had sat, and during all the subsequent day, I made many enquiries, and spent many francs in vain, in order to discover her name and address. I could learn no more than that, to all appearance, it was an English party that had occupied that box the previous evening — where she had come from, whither she had gone to, it was impossible to discover. I went again the next evening that the opera was open, to inspect every box, and every stall, but my fair northern was no where to be seen ; the box she had occupied before, was now tenanted by a bevy of French dowagers, as unHke my fair charmer in their then external ap- pearance, as their frames were doubtless that of the Venus de Medici. " To you, in whom the passions of love and admiration have not been ripened under a tropical sun, it may appear folly or madness in me to con- 5.3 370 STORY OF HORMANJEE. fess, that I became melancholy and unhappy from that moment. The theatre was a kind of forlorn hope — she might possibly be there again, and, with this hope, I had buoyed myself up during all that day. The disappointment was misery, and I returned to my home, wretched and discon- solate. In vain did I argue with myself, that my passion was foolish and hopeless ; that, allowing I were introduced to her, there was very httle chance of her reciprocating my affection, and still less of her parents sanctioning our love ; in vain did the image of Amoosta reproach me in my dreams for my forgetfulness j the whole ardour of my soul was monopolized by the fau'-haired beauty, I had no time to think of any one else. I sank into a kind of senseless lethargy, from wliich my friends vainly endeavoured to rouse me by amusements, by bantering, and by argu- ment. I would not, nay, I could not, be wise. My senses and my mind were overpowered. At length, on one occasion, we drove to Versailles. I remember the occurrences of that day, now, as though it had been but yesterday. We were midway between Paris and the superb palace, when a carriage drove past us, going in the op- posite direction. " I had not failed, according to my wont, to peer into it, and there, reclining languidly, ap- STORY OF nORMANJEE. 371 parently overpowered by heat and fatigue, I saw the same fair form that had enchanted me at the opera. She was alone too. I ahnost screamed with surprise and dehght. My companions really thought me mad. I insisted upon being put down where we were, as I could not prevail upon them to pursue the fair stranger. I ran wildly along the road to Paris, looking for some hirer-out of horses and carriages, that I might follow the enchantress. At length, at a miserable inn, I succeeded, after infinite trouble, for my French was by no means of the most fluent, or correct description, in hiring an old caleche, with one wretched horse, but not till the carriage I wished to j^ursue, had long been out of sight. The big round drops coursed each other rapidly down my forehead, as I waited impatiently for the vehicle to be prepared. The French, however, unlike my Enghsh friends, did not think me insane. They are more accustomed to impetuosity and eagerness in the afiairs of the heart. At length we started. Had the horse been a Pegasus, and flown rapidly through the air, he could scarcely have gone too fast for my excitement, but he was far from being a Pegasus, and, it was only by dint of the most incessant appliances of the whip, that I could get him to advance at any reasonable rate. " The chace was an unequal one, however. 372 STORY OF HORMANJEE. The horses of the carriage in which my fair inna- monita had been wliu'led so rapidly away, were doubtless private ones, in excellent condition, spirited and swift. The miserable hack that drew my caleche was thin and jaded. I had hoped to obtain but a glimpse of the vehicle I was pur- suing, that I might afterwards be able to keep it in view, but I was completely disappointed. To the barrier of Paris we advanced at an irregular gallop, my eyes eagerly straining into the road in advance of us, but without success, and it was not until the police at the barrier of Sainte Marie had seized my horse's head, and compelled the wild chace to end, that I reflected on the utter inutility of continuing it further. I dismissed the venerable caleche, and entered Paris on foot, a sadder, if not a wiser youth. " Again and again did I frequent the theatre and the road to Versailles, but without success, and at length my health began to give way under the incessant excitement of my mind. I resolved, tl^^refore, to quit Paris, and to accept of an invi- tation from an old Anglo-Indian, settled at Chel- tenham, who wished me to spend a month with him. Mr. Haughton had been in the Company's Civil Service in Calcutta, and having been under some obligations to my father, was anxious to show, by his hospitality to me, that he had not STORY OF HORMANJEE. 373 forgotten tliem. He was a peculiar, taciturn man, who seldom went into society, but allowed his daughters, and then- maiden aunt, liis sister, to visit as they pleased. On the evening on which I joined his family he was alone in the house, all the other members of it ha\T.ng de- parted on a visit to the hons of Cirencester. They were not expected back till late, and being fatigued by my journey, and far from well, I retired at an early hour. " Next morning, as usual, Mr. Haughton, who was as regular as the hands of the clock that stood in his own dining-room, was the first in the break- fast-parlour, and on my joining him, told me he expected the ladies presently. In a few miuutes they made their appearance, and you may fancy, though I cannot describe, my astonishment, plea- sure, confusion, and surprise, when I saw in the person of his youngest daughter. Miss Maria Haughton, the very lady who had so powerfully impressed her image on my heart in the Opera at Paris, and whom I had so unsuccessfully pursued on the road from Versailles. " My confusion, which was very apparent to the aunt and the elder sister, although they pro- bably attributed it to Oriental 'gaucherie,' was quite unobserved by Mr. Haughton, who merely remarked that it was already five minutes past 374 STOKY OF HOKMANJEE. the usual breakfast-hour, as he seated himself at the table. What au extraordinary position was mine ! I had fled from the thoughts of the fair Maria at Paris to throw myself into her very pre- sence and society. I could not be deceived in those sliining ringlets, those dark hazel eyes, full of light and happiness ; that dehcate hand and axm. I had noted them all too minutely — they had been too firmly stamped upon my heart to admit of my having been deceived. " ' You have just returned from Paris,' said Miss Haughton, the aunt, to me ; ' my nieces have been on a visit there with an uncle, and have been but tln-ee weeks at home.' Yes, thought I, whilst I took care to say something else ; yes, I knew they had been there very well, I could have sworn it. " ' And did you Hke Paris ?' I asked of Maria. ' Like it,' she replied, ' I was enchanted with it. It was my second visit, but I should never be tired of it.' Her eyes sparkled with pleasure as she spoke. I felt like a pai'tially intoxicated man — too full of happiness. " I cannot delay upon this unfortunate portion of my career. The very remembrance of it is harrowing to me now, and I have been ever since doing my utmost to forget it ; but alas, where the conscience has once been violently outraged. STORY OF HORMANJEE. 875 there is little chance of ultimate oblivion of the circumstances. I was madly, violently in love with Maria. My own fondly-attached Amoosta was quite forgotten, or only remembered as an unpleasant incubus that must sooner or later be shaken off. " The sound of Maria's voice, her very foot-fall vibrated through me with an extraordinary degree of power; it was as if I had dehvered myself over to an infatuation which was luring me to destruction. She encouraged my attentions ; there was ever a winning smile upon her hps, a gracious word to cheer me, when I showed an anxiety to obhge her. She had never been in India, and had therefore not learned to despise the Orientals ; she looked upon me merely as a man, and saw no reason why I should not be treated as any other man. Would that she had despised me, and my pride would have revolted at her contempt, and been my preserver ! Her aunt encouraged, whilst her sister was displeased at my attentions. Mr. Haughton either did not observe them, or treated them as a matter of profound indifference, as long as they did not interfere with his domestic ar- rangements, or retard the dinner-hour a moment. Often, to please the caprice of my enchantress, did I make my appearance in Parsee costume, and as I spared neither money nor pains to render 376 STORY OF HORMA^JEE. it imposing, it was universally admired. The aunt, doubtless, looked upon me with a favour- able eye on account of the reports wliich Mr. Haughton had heard of my father's wealth, whilst the sister, as I soon found to my cost, looked upon me with horror as a heathen. " At Jengtli I found a favourable opportunity of declaring my passion. We were quite alone without fear of interruption. Maria heard me with emotion, yet my declaration was evidently expected. 'Hormanjee,' said she, 'why make such an avowal to me ? You know I am a Christian.' And so saying, she looked me full in the face, as though she would read what was in my secret thoughts. * And for thee, Maria — for thee, lovely and adorable Maria- — I would become anything,' I passionately exclaimed, * I too, will be a Christian.' ' Will you ! will you indeed ?' said she, ' Will you, for my sake become a Christian ? Oh, then, I shall be sure you love me ! Until then, however, no more of this. When you have indeed become a Christian, I am sure my father will listen to you.' ' And, should he not ?' I asked ; ' what then, Maria ? Eemember, I am one of those natives whom he has been ac- customed to despise for 3^ears. Should he not listen to me, Maria ?' I understood her to whisper a faint, ' I will,' as she sobbed upon my shoulder. • STORY OF HORMANJEE, 377 " The next Sunday I went with the family to church. It was the first time I had been at the Protestant service, and my conscience did not fail to reproach me, even then, for joining in rites and prayers which I regarded as vain and false. But Maria was in the pew, and beneath the veil which partially concealed her features,- I knew that her eyes were frequently turned towards me. I had become too great an adept, however, at dis- simulation to allow any portion of my feelings to exhibit themselves in my countenance or my manner. I had learned the fatal European secret of hiding my thoughts. The sermon pleased me much. It was upon the duty of benevolence, and frequently reminded me of one of those ex- traordinary questions which Zoroaster (as you call him) put to Ormuzd when admitted to the pre- sence. ' Who is the best of your servants ?' asked the prophet. And the r-eply was, ' He who has a right heart. He who fails not in practising justice, whose eyes do not wander after riches. He who does good to everything in the world, will be eternally happy ; whilst those who afflict my peojDle, and disregard my precepts shaU be sent to hell.' " At length the time came when our mutual affection must be made known to Maria's father, and, for his verdict we looked as anxiously for- 378 STORY OF HORMANJEE. ward as the criminal for the sentence of the judge. Maria's aunt undertook to mention the matter. He received the announcement more calmly than we had anticipated, for we were in an adjoining room, in breatliless expectation. 'Humph,' he exclaimed, ' this, then, is why he was so ready to prolong his visit, notwithstanding his devotion to the Opera, and the great length of time he has al- ready been from India. Manuckjee ^vdll not thank me for making his son a Christian. The idea is ab- surd — in love with a Parsee, forsooth ! Pshaw, nonsense — Manuckjee is rich to be sm-e ; but would he leave his wealth to a Christian, do you think ? Not a bit of it. And, besides, I won't have any converts about me. I hate converts. If he says he's a Clmstian, it's all nonsense. He'U. laugh at the priest that baptizes him. don't talk to me, I know them better than you do. I never saw a Parsee become a Cliristian. I tell you they are as bigoted as — as bigoted as — as — ' the old gentleman could not find a better simile, so he said, ' as the very devil. Are they there? This folly must be put an end to, at once.' " Maria and I entered. Her hand was in my arm ; and, although she was deadly pale, yet she declared her fixed determination to persevere. ' Hormanjee,' said Mr. Haughton, ' have you for- STORY OF HORiyiANJEE. 379 gotten Manuckjee, your mother, your religion, your nation ?' ' For her, Sir,' I replied firmly, ' I can forget aU.' ' Now, come, Hormanjee, you're a sensible lad,' he said blandly, but craftily ; * you don't mean to tell me — me, who have been in India — you don't mean to teU me you are a Christian.' * I do,' said I, feeling more and more convinced that some awful trial was at hand. ^ You do ; very well, pray be seated.' He then turned to Maria's aunt, and said quietly, ' Order a light here please, to seal a letter.' My nerves shivered at the fearful idea, which now grasped my heart and squeezed the blood from it, as one would water from a sponge : — a Hght — he wants to see if I am indeed a Christian ; Maria, little do you know the sacrifice I now make for you, thought I, whilst I felt some great change coming over me, that I could not understand. The hght was brought, and placed upon the table. 'There,' said Mr. Haughton, with a calm, clear voice, that formed an awful contrast with the turmoil in my mind, with the agony I was enduring — ' There,' said he, ' is the Parsee's god. If Hormanjee be indeed a Christian, let him extinguish that Hght/ Maria looked at me in triumph. To her it seemed an easy feat. To me it was — heU. It was sever- ing the ties that bound me to my nation, to my rehgion, to my father's house. I felt the room 380 STORY OF HORMANJEE. wliii'ling, my Iiead swimming, mj brain on fire, as I rose from my cliair and advanced to tlie table. " I cannot even now tliink of that fatal mo- ment without shuddering. I did extinguish the light, and next day I was in a brain fever ; for fourteen days did I he utterly unconscious of all around me. Maria's aunt tended me mth the care of a mother, and I slowly recovered. My jQrst conscious thoughts were of her for whom I had made the sacrifice, and I asked earnestly after her. For days I was luUed ■s\ith lying assm'ances, and it was not until I was strong enough to bear further torture, that I found she had abandoned me. " With the cold calculation of the north, she would make no sacrifice for one who had sacrificed all for her. She had left a note for me, deeply regretting all that had occm-red, but she was sure we could never be happy together. I had made evidently a great sacrifice for her, its very extent proved how Httle I was of a Christian, how much still of a Parsee. " I tore the letter and flung it from me. Would that I could as easily have torn her image from my heart ! I endeavom'ed to do so however, and I partially succeeded. After six months fui'ther residence in London — a gloomy and miserable six months — I felt that I might again STORY OF HORMANJEE. 381 venture to meet my Amoosta, and in her love and trutlifulness, console myself for the cold falsehood of Maria. " I sailed in one of the splendid Indian vessels round the Cape to Calcutta. The voyage of four months, tedious and monotonous to others, was to me as a lieahng medicme — a balm for the wounds my soul had sustained. Grradually the idea of Maria faded from my heart, with all the guilt and reproach which that image called up in my own conscience. I dihgently studied the Zend-Avesta, and, in its pages, found consolation imder my trials ; my religious duties were ear- nestly and unremittingly pursued — I no longer put off my native habit, and, in resuming it, I seemed, now that every breeze was sending me further and further from the scene of my degra- dation and my fall, to put on my nationality again. It was as if I had been awaking from some horrible and oppressive dream. " I arrived at Calcutta only to hear, alas ! that death had been maJdng sad havoc with my family and my friends. My mother was gone. Amoosta's sister was dead, and she herself lay incapable of the sHghtest exertion — she was at the very door of the tomb. Our Parsee mausoleums {dokma, or towers of silence, as we call them) are pe- culiar, as are indeed our rites of sepulture and ordinances of every kind. We have no burial- 382 STORY OF HORMANJEE. place in tliis island of the same character as those in the large cities of India. A high circular wall, with a single door, encircles a space, in the centre of which is dug a deep pit. Around the pit and extending to the wall, rises tier above tier of stone benches on which the corpse is laid. There is no roof to this gloomy abode of the dead, and the crow, the hawk, the vulture, and the adjutant plume their wings, as they sit lazily upon the summit of the wall, waiting for their horrible repasts.* The bones, once stripped, are consigned to the pit in the middle of the large enclosure, and when the pit is full, the cemetery is finally closed — its door barred up, and all ingress denied. Such is the Parsee mausoleum of Calcutta. '* The father, Kowasjee, regarding me as the cause of the illness of his beloved Amoosta, would not see me, and had indeed strictly forbidden my visits to his house. She lay at the point of death, yet I could not see her ! Her attendant was in- duced by my sister to grant me an interview, and she assured me that Amoosta spoke but of me when her tongue could perform its office — that her father would not allow the European physicians into his house, declaring that they had killed her sister — and that she was now steeped in a kind of lethargy that seemed the result of the medical * A model of the Parsee dokma may be seen in the Museum of the Royal Asiatic Society, London. STORY OF HORMANJEE. 383 treatment she had experienced. My heart, torn rudely as it had been by the cold treachery of Maria, was now doomed to have its healing wounds reopened to bleed afresh. I implored Kowasjee by letter and by messenger to see me, and to permit me to send a skilful physician, with whom I was acquainted, to Amoosta. I could get no reply to my messages or my notes. " A week had elapsed since my arrival in Calcutta, and I was walking sorrowfully in the garden where I had walked years ago nurturing boyish dreams. I was still very young, yet the events I had experienced had prematurely de- veloped my mind, and I felt grave and melan- choly, as though I had gone through a long and thoughtless career, and was only now be- ginning to reflect upon it. A servant approached and informed me that a female of the household of the Kowasjee desired an interview. It was the attendant of Amoosta, and her appearance indicated mourning and sorrow for the departed. ' Amoosta is then dead ?' I asked. * So they say, my lord/ was her reply — ' for days she has been insensible, but since last night all sign of anima- tion has left her — ^the mubed* has pronounced her dead, and she is to be removed to the cemetery this evening.* * Parsee priest. 384 STORY OF HORMANJEE. "It is possible, thought I, they may be mis- taken ; this woman seems to hint as much. What an awful thought, to be consigned to the vultures, and the adjutants, and the kites, amid the horrors of a charnel-house, alive ! ' See,' said I, *take care that the body of Amoosta is well wrapped up in the usual clothes, but let not the head be tightly bound — the folds must be ample, and the cerements more abundant than usual.' 'It shall be done as my lord wiUs. Will not my lord visit his betrothed?' she asked. 'No,' said I, 'I will waive that right, as her father does not look upon me with the eye of love. How does he bear the loss?' 'He is all but mad. 0, Zardusht, comfort him !' she exclaimed wildly. 'Go, my friend/ said I, recompensing her for her attention, ' and remember my words. Let the funeral robes be more ample than usual, with abundant folds, and loosely wrapped round the head.' ' It shaU be done as my lord wills,' she replied, as she left me. " I hurried off to the Nasarsalas, those whose miserable office it was to bear the dead bodies into the cemetery. Their feet alone have trodden its unhallowed precincts ; for, whilst the mourners wait without,' they leave the body on one of the stone benches prepared for the purpose, and, re- moving the funeral clothes, which become their STORY OF IIORMAXJEE. 385 perquisites, they hurry from the tomb, that they may not share it with the filthy birds who swarm upon the body in crowds at once. I saw these men. Their very touch is defilement by our law. I bargained with them for the funeral clothes of the fair girl that day to be consigned to the tomb. These funeral clothes, contrary to their wont, they were to leave untouched ; and by an ample bounty ' I removed their scruples, or si- lenced their consciences, respecting the propriety of this unprecedented procedure. " I then went to the guardian of the tomb — a priest. Here I had a more difiicult task to per- form. None but the feet of the body-bearers might, by our law, enter the cemeter}'^ — to open it to any others was to violate custom, and what he believed to be his duty. Money is all- powerful on earth, however. I explained my object to him. I implored him to consider the cruelty of allowing a fair and lovely girl to be torn to pieces by ravenous birds, when, perhaps, she was not dead. I solemnly promised to leave her there, if the medical gentleman who accom- panied me pronounced her dead ; and, finally, I put twenty gold mohurs* into his hand. He weighed my arguments and the gold — both were good — and admission, as soon as it became quite dark, was promised. "Dr. Wells had been a passenger with me * A gold moliiiT is equal to 16 rupees, or 32 shillings. VOL. I. S 386 STORY OF HORMANJEE. round the Cape. We had become intimate on the voyage, and he was still in Calcutta, although preparing to join a remote station up the country. I had little difficulty in persuading him to ac- company me, and to adopt, for that purpose, a Parsee costume ; for the priest would never have admitted an infidel into the mausoleum. The very novelty of the enterprise would probably have been sufficient to have induced him to come, even had he not known that I was rich. " That evening, about six o'clock, the mournful procession, bearing the body of Amoosta, deposited it upon the stone bier prepared for that purpose, outside the mausoleum. The priest advanced, and sprinkling the usual perfumes, whilst he re- cited the customary invocations, he opened the door of the mysterious tomb. A cold shudder ran through my veins, for I was near, but dis- guised, as I saw the bearers emerge, like spirits, from a shed in the vicinity, and noiselessly ad- vance to the corpse. Their well-oiled bodies were half- naked, and not a sound was heard, save the hurried departure of the friends of the deceased, as the Nasar-satas lifted her up and bore her into that abode of dead humanity and live birds of prey. In a few minutes they, too, hurried away, and the door was hastily shut. I watched them narrowly — they had kept their promise — the cerements had not been removed. " I never could have believed that hours were STORY OF HORMANJEE. 387 SO long as I found them on that night. The clocks seemed to stand still — the very seconds would not tick mth their usual rapidity. At length it was half-past seven, and Dr. Wells and I stepped into the carriage at that moment. We left it near the cemetery, but not within sight, and I had taken the precaution to obtain a Euro- pean coachman from a livery-stable in Durrum- tollah for the evening. " It was a dark night fortunately for our pur- pose. We both had lanterns, the hght of which was as yet hidden by a slide. The priest silently opened the door of the cemetery as w^e advanced, and we shudderingly entered. We had no sooner done so than we heard the door shut and locked behind us. All was impenetrably dark, but the horrid effluvia of rotting bones told too plainly where we were. We moved the slides of our lanterns, and two streams of hght burst forth into the gloom. There was a dull, flapping sound, overhead — it was a vultm'e, disturbed by our in- trusion, watchmg us from above. We advanced a step or tw^o cautiously, until our eyes should get accustomed to our position. Wells stumbled over something as he put down his foot. We turned the Hght of our lanterns upon it. ' It's only a skull,' said he, ' let us get nearer the centre, near the pit you speak of, and we shall probably be able to see the benches around.' He was right, that was the best measm'e we could adopt. A s 2 388 STORY OF HORMAXJEE. path led directly from the door to the pit, whilst others, on either hand, ran round between the stone benches on which the bodies were placed. I, too, stumbled over a bone, and putting out my hand to steady myself, it rested for a moment on the ribs of a skeleton, which were stretched in confusion by my side. ' This smell from the pit is overpowering,' said Wells, as we advanced. 'Have you the brandy -flask?' I gave it to him — we both required it. " Raising our lamps, we allowed the light to gleam round the awful inclosure. Directly opposite to us — one of the first objects we saw — was a head, standing on the edge of the bench, where the birds had doubtless left it ; the light from our lanterns gleamed full into its eyeless sockets, — the lower jaw still hung to it, with all its ghastly teeth, by a tendon. A half-consumed body, with its entrails hanging upon the ground, was being devoured by two vultures, whom even the light did not disturb. From hearing the birds in that direction, we had thought for a moment, it was what we were looking for. At length. Wells, who was infinitely more calm and collected than I was, in tliis abode of death, per- ceived the garments, surrounding the bod}^ we sought, upon a bench at no great distance. To reach it, over bones and filth, was but the work of a moment. The birds had departed, foiled by the voluminous folds of the cerements, the outer STORY OF HORMANJEE. 389 of which were torn in various places, by their rave- nous bills. I raised the head, and removing the covering, exposed to the full beams of the lantern, the loveHest features they had ever shone upon. Dr. Wells proceeded minutely to examine the body. ' There is life here still,' he said at length, cautiously and slowly, ' but this atmosphere will soon extinguish it. She must be removed at once.' So saying, he moistened the lips with the brand3^ I gave him my lantern, and, taking the precious burden in my arms, followed him from that horrid scene of death and decay. The priest was at the door, and would have opposed the de- parture of the body — but we heeded him not, and, making our way to the carriage, were speedily be3'ond the reach of his importunities and his resistance. " By assiduous care and attention, Amoosta revived. For three years she was my wife in Calcutta — for six more in Bombay — and now in Ceylon, you can judge for yourself by what she is, after having borne me six children, and experi- enced many trials, whether I have exaggerated as to what she was." s 3 [ 890 ] 1 APPENDIX. HISTOEY OF CEYLON, 1140-1186, a.d. THE EEiaN OF PBACKEAMA THE GREAT. jSTothing perhaps can sliow more forcibly the sameness of the human character, all over the globe, than the fact that the manner in which the princes of the tropical and luxuriant Ceylon were educated in the earliest times, was very similar to that by which a modem English gentleman is fitted for his duties.* Prackrama, we are informed, was first introduced to the literature of his country — or more properly, perhaps, of his religion — by a priest of great lite- rary attainments ; remarkable as well for extent of know- ledge as for profoundness of intellect. Under his tiution the young prince became a profound master of the Budhist faith, of logic, grammar, poetry, and music. Nor were physical exercises wanting to give strength to his body and decision to his mmd. Horsemanship, archery, and the management of elephants, were also cultivated by him with success ; and, under the paternal instructions and care of his cousin, he became fit for the station which he was afterwards to fill, but he had yet to complete his education by travelling. For this purpose he set out with a dignified retinue, and as the countries which he visited * We must not forget, however, that this enliglitened education was given in Ceylon when Europe was confined to the trivium of the schools. APPENDIX. 391 are not mentioned, we may fairly conclude that they would be the neighbouring shores of the continent, and, perhaps, Burmah. The mind of Prackrama, however, needed not the ex- citement of travel to render it active and ambitious. On returning to Ceylon he was miwilling to hold the station of a subordinate, and fonned the ungenerous resolu- tion of dethroning Gajabahu the reigning prince of Eohona. What an exemplification of the ingenious re- mark of Cicero does this afford us : " Verse amicitiae rarissime inveniuntur in iis qui in honoribus reipublicce ver- santur." Respecting the particulars of his enterprize we are left uninformed. It is however stated, that having beconil by his imposing qualities the favourite of the people, he found little difficulty in obtaining an arma- ment. His first enterprise was against the subor- dinate governor of a small province, called Badalattaliya. Him he defeated and slew, and next directed his march against Gajabahu, whom he obliged to fly from the capital into Saffragam. The capital was retaken afterwards by Grajabahu, and when both parties were on the eve of a decisive struggle, the priests interposed and brought about an accommodation. By this agreement Prackrama received the sovereignty from his competitor, who volun- tarily resigned it a. d. 1153, precisely twenty-seven years subsequent to the death of "Wijayabahu, making the 119th prince of the Singha race who moimted the Sin- ghalese throne. In this great number many subordinate princes are of course included, and many whose names we have not mentioned, their reigns affording little but the name. On the abdication of Gajabahu,AVickramabahu asserted his claim to the supremacy, a claim which Prackrama was by no means prepared to allow. Avoiding as much as possible a contest with bis father, the young prince pro- '392 APPENDIX. ceeded to reduce some other parts of the Idngdom T\ineli still resisted his authority. During his absence on this expedition, Wickrama, ^-ith an ungenerous treachery, sent an army into his defenceless province, which occu- pied the principal fortresses. Prackrama hastened back to revenge the injury, and by hisj)reseuce quickly changed the situation of affairs. Pihitee, the province of which Pollanarua was the capital, was quickly delivered from its enemies, and Prackrama's father was obliged to recross the Mahavelli-ganga as a fugitive. Shortly before his death he sent for his son ; mutual forgiveness was exchanged between them, and the aged prince died, at peace with his impetuous offspring. We must not omit a romantic adventure related%f the prince, Avhich woidd, Avere it true, entitle him to the appellation " Coeur de Lion" more justly, perhaps, than its ascription to Kichard of England. When tra- velling with a small train of attendants, through an lui- frequented part of the country, an enormous lion sprang forward, with open jaws and lashing tail, as though mad- dened with rage. All the attendants of the prince fled, leaA-ing him alone. He disdained to retreat ; and, ad- vancing, grappled with the Hon, to such advantage that the monarch of the forest preferred flight to tlie combat, and left him rejoicing in his prowess. Lions, liowever, being unheard of in the island, we may reasonably doubt the truth of the story. Ha\dng become undisputed monarch of the island, Prackrama commenced his reign by restoring Budhism to all its ancient magnificence. Por this pm^pose he appointed i)ai'ticular officers to inspect the state of the temples, and report accordingly : he spared no expense in sujiplying liimself with valuable woi'ks for these templesj and paid nuich lionour to the priestliood. The leaders by Avliose assistance ho had gained the tlu-one were placed in APPENDIX. 393 situations suitable to their merits. Guards were sta- tioned round the coast to give notice of hostile intnision. Canals and tankswhich had become chokedwere clearedand again made beneficial. Strong fortifications were erected in convenient positions, as places of refuge in case of sudden reverse. ' Eice-fields were formed of great extent. A rampart of stone was erected round the capital, and, in fact, no means were neglected to render his kingdom prosperous and powerfid. Nor were these exertions vain; for we are informed that Ceylon became by them united and powerful as a nation, and its inhabitants happy and flourishing. A palace for himself, and suitable habitations for the higher orders of priesthood, were next erected; and an extensive garden was planned, with a coronation hall in the midst. The wall encompassing Pollanarua, we are informed, w^as thirty-six miles in length on one side, and sixteen on the other, showing, if this assertion be true, the enormous size of the city itself. Whilst he was tluis embellishing his capital, the ancient city of Auuradhapoora was not neglected. A minister was sent there for the express purpose of investigating the state of the buildings, and of having them put into proper repair. AVhilst thus cultivating, with so much success, the arts of peace, Prackrama was suddenly interrupted by a revolt in Eohona. This revolt w^as instigated by Subhala, the consort of the tributary prince who had been conquered by Prackrama. The resolution to rebel having been taken, she carried on the necessary preparations with great spirit and energy, proving, by her abilities, that she was an enemy not unworthy of Prackrama himself. Large and deep ihoats were dug round the fortified places. The roads leading into the pro\dnce were ren- dered impassable" to the elephants and cavalry by large trees ^\"hicll they had felled, and fixed deeply in the ground by stakes. The plains were covered by the Eohonians 394 APPENDIX. with brambles and thorns, and, in sliort, every means taken for a vigorous defence. Prackrania was not dis- posed to regard these things vdth indifference. Eackha, one of his okl generals, was placed at the head of a large and well-armed force. Having marched directly against the enemy, he found them determined to defend one of the roads which they had before fortified. An obstinate battle ensued, in wliich the Eohonians were at last obliged to give way. Their retreat became a flight, their flight a rout ; and at the same time the adjoining fort, into which they attempted to throw themselves, was carried in the melee. The hopes of these mountaineers were not to be overcome, however, by the loss of a single battle ; and so closely was Eackha beset in the conquered fort, that he was obliged to send to Prackrama for a reinforcement. Bhutha, another of the generals and friends of Prack- rama, was immediately despatched to his aid, and a junc- tion of the two armies was, after some delay, effected. The war was then renewed " with redoubled spirit." Many battles were fought vsdth various success, bvit, on the whole, so much to tlie disadvantage of the Eohouians, that they formed the resolution of emigrating in a body with all their goods ; and, what was more thought of with many of the relics of Budha. Prackrama having been informed by some of his private emissaries of their intention, sent strict orders to Eackha and Bhutha to leave no exertion untried to prevent its execution. In order to give them the means of obeying his command a fresh reinforcement was despatched under tlie command of Kierthy^ A line of circumvallation was tlien drawn by the imited forces round the principal strongliolds of the rebels, and so weU arranged were their exertions that no large body could leave the district without their per- mission. Straitened by the strict blockade wliich they endured, the liohonians were at length forced to sur- APPENDIX. 395 render the relics and submit. Subhala, however, the ambitious woman who had incited the rebellion, was not taken, nor does it appear that the generals of the king insisted, as they ought to have done, on her surrender. Having thus restored the kingdom once more to peace and prosperity, the king resolved to impose upon the vulgar minds of the people by a magnificent procession, as a type of his power and prosperity. On a fortunate day, appointed by the astrologers, the king appeared before his attending nobles, liis courtiers holding an emblazoned canopy over his head. Imme- diately on his appearance instruments of music were sounded on all sides ; banners waved in the air ; the people shouted, " like the loud bellowing of the rushing sea," "Long Kve the king!" whilst the sky was almost clouded by the smoking perfumes of all kinds. The haughty Prackrama having bowed to the multitudes arovuid, then ascended the royal elephant, at the same time that the nobles entered into their carriages. " With great pomp, amidst the noise of the roaring of elephants, neighing and prancing of horses, rattling of carriages, beating of tom-toms, blowing of chanks, and playing of music,"* the procession w^ended its way along. The queen and Prackrama appeared at its head, in two splendid towers placed on elephants, with golden crowns upon their heads. Next followed the principal leaders of the late rebellion, walking, followed by the officers of state and grandees, whilst innumerable multitudes con- cluded the imposing show. Such an important ceremony was not allowed, however, to pass over without a miracle. Suddenly, in the midst of their pomp, the sky became overcast, the heavens lowered, and threatened the re- joicers with an inopportune deluge. The thunder then began to roar, the lightning to flash, and a keen wind to * Mahawanso, ch. 73. 396 APPEXDIX. course over the earth. Prackrama was uot a mau to be frightened with a tempest : the procession went on, re- gardless of the impending rain, and now behold the miracle ! The rain descended in volumes all aroimd, but not a drop upon man or beast engaged in the ceremony. Whilst the neighbouring rivers and tanks were choked with water, they remained perfectly dry. " Behold," exclaims the author of the Mahawanso, " this striking instance of the power of Budha." But even this instance of Divine favoiu' coidd not humble the mind of Subhala : the daughter and wife of a king, she still asserted her rights to be a monarch ; and scarcely had the rejoicings of Prackrama ended ere intel- ligence was brought from Rohona of another insurrection. Two battles (in one of which 12,000 Eohonians are said to have fallen) and a siege were the result of this teme- rity, and the enterprising queen was at length brought as a caj)tive before her rival. Of her future iate we are uninformed ; but as her name does not occur again in the ainials of her countr}- , we may conclude that her life paid the penalty of her rebellion. Subsequent to the sixteenth year of Praclcrama's reign (a. d. 1169), and probably very shortly after that year, although we are uninformed of the precise period, he formed the resolution of revenging on the king of Cam- bodia * and Arramanat the injuries he had inflicted on several of the Singhalese subjects. These injuries con- sisted iu plundering merchants, slighting the ambassador of Ceylon, and intercepting some vessels conveying cer- tain women of rank from that island to the continent. In the Eatnacari and Eajawali, however, the only reason stated for this invasion is, that he slighted and * Tliis country still retains its ancient appellation. t Probably that part of the Burmese peuiusula between Arrakan and Si am. APPENDIX, 307 dishououred the religion of Budha, au offence worthy, in their eyes, of the most condign punishment. To avenge himself on this despiser of Budha, and slighter of Ceylon, five hundred vessels, and a great armament of seamen and soldiers, ammimition, and provisions, were equipped in a few months. A Malabar general, named Adikarara, of great and distinguished reuo^^n, was put at the head of this expedition, and it was accordingly despatched. Having first landed on an island called Kakha, they obtained good omens of their futiure success by gaining the first battle in which they engaged, the consequence of which was the submission of that part of the island and the taking of several prisoners. Encouraged by this success they sailed for Cambodia, and landed at a port called Koosiuna, where the enemy appeared drawn up in front of their entrenchments in great force. Adikaram, having drawn up his forces in line of battle on the beach, advanced against the enemy, and was re- ceived with showers of arrows, which the Singhalese returned; but, as the Cambodians seemed unwilling to leave their entrenchments, it was necessary for Adikaram to force them, and this he accomplished by a resolute and determined attack. Sword in hand the Singhalese ad- vanced, disregarding the missiles of the enemy, and, after a short but severe struggle, the entrenchments were forced, the Cambodians routed, and their Icing slain in the confusion. Adikaram, like a prudent general, lost no time in fol- lowing up his advantages by advancing on the capital, where the coimtry was proclaimed tributary to the great and glorious Prackramabahu, king of Ceylon. Tribute was accordingly collected, and a viceroy appointed. After this signal success, Prackrama turned his arms against the imited kingdoms of Pandi and Sollee, in 398 APPENDIX. soutliern India, wlio, fearing to meet alone so formidable a prince, had prudently joined their forces. Ajiother expe- dition was fitted out, and proceeded to the enemies' terri- tories. At Madura, where a landing was first attempted, thej found the shore so thickly covered with the enemy that they were obliged to proceed np the coast to Talat- chilla (probably Tellicherry) ; there also, however, the enemy had anticipated them, and were assembled in force. The army of Prackrama was not to be twice repvdsed ; numerous boats were manned with the troops, which, amidst showers of arrows and spears, advanced towards the shore, and, as soon as a convenient station had been gained, the soldiers leaped out : stooping, and covering themselves with their shields, they advanced in a line against their opposers, and fortunately succeeded in put- ting them to flight. A landing having thus been eSected with so much difficulty, the invaders found the remaining part of the country was as obstinately contested as the shore had been. Five pitched battles were fought, in each of which the army of Prackrama was successful, and bv which the whole province of Eamisseram came into the possession of the Singhalese. Whilst the invaders were, after these exploits, enjoying the fruits of their victories in their encampments, an army of the enemy hastily attacked them, and had well nigh rendered all their previous vic- tories useless. But the Singhalese were now soldiers in every sense of the word, and quickly revenged the losses they had sustained, so that in the last and most terrible conflict the Pandians sustained a severe defeat ; thousands of them were slain, and the remainder was pursued by the whole Singhalese army for a distance of sixteen miles. The consequence of these victories was, that Kulasaikera, the king of Pandi, was dethroned, and his son, Weera- pandu, raised in his stead, as a tributary of Prackrama. Having thus happily terminated his foreign wars, the APPENDIX. 399 attentiou of the king was next directed to the adornment of Budhism. The religious edifices of Anuradhapoora were enriched with numerous offerings and additions, and Prackrama himself went there to superintend the erection of a golden spire upon the Euanelli dagobah. Events of this kind are those upon which the Budhist historians delight to dwell ; and, accordingly, we have a particular account of how the city was ornamented, how beautiful the women were, how glittering the flags, and how noble the entire ceremony ; whilst his warlike enterprises are rehearsed only by informing us of the niunber of the bat- tles, and the names of the subdued countries. Prackrama, however, did not confine himself to the embellishment of a religion already too rich and powerful. Besides erecting new, and adorning old religious edi- fices, he planted several immense forests of fruit-trees, and turned the courses of several rivers, so that they might replenish the tanks already formed. Canals also were dug by him to conduct the waters of the tanks and lakes to a distance. The following three of this nature are particularly mentioned as extraordinary works: the Goodai\dree Canal to conduct the waters of the Kara- gauga into a lake, called the Sea of Prackrama, from which the water was conducted by twenty-four channels to all the neighbouring fields ; the lake of Minneria he made available for useful purposes, by digging the Ka- linda Canal, to conduct its waters to the northward; and, lastly, the Jaya-ganga Canal, by which the Kalaawene tank was rendered serviceable to the inhabitants of Anuradhapoora. Were we to give a list of one half of the useful build- ings attributed to Prackrama, we would completely weary out our readers : dagobahs, -nihares, relic repositaries, offering-houses, caverns, priests' -houses, preaching-halls, image-halls, dancing-saloons, and strangers' -houses, are 400 ■ AITEXDIX. but a few of the motley collection of edifices recounted with critical accuracy by tlie zealous Budhists. Amongst these, however, we must remark that several halls of jus- tice, and 128 libraries are particularly enumerated. There appears little reason to doubt the truth of tliese details. Prackrama was by birth tlie sovereign of a rich, fertile, and popidous country ; he had, besides, rendered himself by arms the master of two important and extensive kingdoms, and being of such an active, energetic dis- position, it is but natural to suppose that his many years of peace were occupied almost altogether in adorning his comitry. In reviewing his character there appears, as in that of most other conquerors, much to praise and much to blame. We cannot commend his evident ingratitude and injustice to Grajabahu, in the early part of his life ; at the same time that we must admire the decision and promptitude of all his measures. He appears to have possessed, in an eminent degree, aU the qualities of a great commander ; a quick apprehension of the difficulties and advantages of his situation on every occasion ; great forethought and judgment in the formation of lais plans, and no less decision in their execution. He knew emi- nently well how to gain the affections of his people ; how to oppose presumption and to reward merit. Nor was his ability displayed alone in military affairs : he appears to have been equally energetic when at peace ; equally anxious to advance his OAvn glory and that of his people. "Without one spark of patriotism in his bosom, he was eminently useful to his country, and it is with justice that his reign has been designated as " the most martial, enterprising, and glorious in the Singhalese history." — Knighton'' s Historij of C(')/hri, pp. 134-147. LONDON : Printed by Fchulzc and Co., 13 Poland Street. 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT, SUCCESSORS TO MR. COLBURN, HAVE LATELY PUBLISHED €^t /nllnmiug Mtm l^nrki MEMOIRS OF THE COURT AND CABINETS OF GEORGE THE THIRD, FROM ORIGINAL FAMILY DOCUMENTS. BY THE DUKE OP BUCKINGHAM AITD CHANDOS, K.G., &C. Second Edition, Revised. 2 vols. 8vo., with Portraits. 30s. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. " These vokmies contain much vahiable matter. The letters which George, first Marquis of Buckingham, laid by as worthy of preservation, have some claim to see the light, for he held more than one office in the State, and consequently kept up a communication with a great number of historical personages. He himself was twice Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland ; first, under Lord Rockingham, and secondly, under Pitt ; his most constant correspondents were his two brothers, William and Thomas Grenville, both of whom spent the chief part of their lives in official employments, and of whom the former is sufficiently known to fame as Lord Grenville. The staple of the book is made up of these family documents, but there are also to be found interspersed with the Grenville narrative, letters from every man of note, dating from the death of the elder Pitt to the end of the century. There are three periods upon which they shed a good deal of light. The formation of the Coalition Ministry in 1783, the illness of the King in 1788, and the first war with Republican France. Lord Grenville's letters to his brother aflford a good deal of information on the machinations of the Prince's party, and the conduct of the Prince and the Duke of York during the King's illness." — The Times. " A very remarkable and valuable publication. The Duke of Buckingham has himself undertaken the task of forming a history from the papers of his grand- father and great-uncle, the Earl Temple (first Marquis of Buckingham), and Lord Grenville, of the days of the second \Vm. Pitt. The letters which are given to the public in these volumes, extend over an interval commencing with 1782, and ending with 1800. In that interval events occurred which can never lose their interest as incidents in the history of England. The Coalition Ministry atid its dismissal by the King — the resistance of the Sovereign and Pitt to the efforts of the discarded ministers to force themselves again into office — the great con- HURST AND BLaCKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE COURT AND CABINETS OF GEORGE III. ^ OPINIONS OF THE PRESS CONTINUED. stitutional question of the Regency which arose upon the King's disastrous ma — the contest upon that question between the heir apparent and the mini of the Crown — the breaking out of the French Revolution, and the conseq entrance of England upon the great European war, — these, with the u. with Ireland, are political movements every detail of which possesses the deej interest. In these volumes, details, then guarded with the most anxious Ca from all eyes but those of the privileged few, are now for the first time given t^ the public. The most secret history of many of the transactions is laid bare. It is not possible to conceive contemporary history more completely exemplified. From such materials it was not possible to form a work that would not possess the very highest interest. The Duke of Buckingham has, however, moulded liis materials with no ordinary ability and skill. The connecting narrative is written both with judgment and vigour — not unfrequently in a style that comes up to ' the highest order of historical composition — especially in some of the sketcl^^s of personal character. There is scarcely a single individual of celebrity throughout the period from 1782 to 1800 who is not introduced into these pages ; amongst others, besides the King and the various members of the royal family, are Rock- ingham, Shelburne, North, Thurlow, Loughborough, Fox, Pitt, Sheridan, Burke, Portland, Sydney, Fitzwilliam, Tierney, I3uckingham, Grenville, Grey, Malmes- bury, Wilberforce.Burdett, Fitzgibbon, Grattan, Flood, Cornwallis, the Beresfords, the Ponsonbys, the Wellesleys, &iC."—Morniny Herald. " These memoirs are among the most valuable materials for history that have recently been brought to light out of the archives of any of our great families. The period embraced by the letters is from the beginning of 1782 to the close of 1799, comprising the last days of the North Administration, the brief life of the Rockingham, and the troubled life of the Shelburne Ministry, the stormy career of the Coalition of '83, the not less stormy debates and intrigues which broke out on the first insanity of the King, the gradual modifications of Pitt's first Ministry, and the opening days of the struggle with France after her first great revolution. Of these the most valuable illustrations concern the motives of Fox in withdrawing from Shelburne and joining with North against him, the desperate intriguing and deliberate bad faith of the King exerted against the Coalition, and the profligacy and heartlessness of the Prince of Wales and his brother all through the Regency debates. On some incidental subjects, also, as the affairs of Ireland, the Wiirren Hastings trial, the Fitzgerald outbreak, the Union, the sad vicissitudes and miseries of the last days of the old French monarchy, &c., the volumes supply illustrative facts and comments of much interest." — Examiner. " This valuable contribution to the treasures of historic lore, now for the first time produced from the archives of the Buckingham family displays the action of the ditforcnt parties in the State, throws great light on the personal character of the King, as well as on the share which he took in the direction of public affairs, and incidentally reveals many facts hitherto but imperfectly known or altogether unknown. In order to render the contents of the letters more intelligible, the noble Editor has, with great tact and judgment, set them out in a kind of historical framework, in which the leading circumstances under which they were written are briefly indicated — the result being a happy combination of the completeness of historical narrative with the freshness of original thought and of contemporaneous record." — John Bull. " These volumes are a treasure for the politician, and a mine of wealth for the historian." — Britannia. HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. LORD GEOUGE BENTINCK: A POLITICAL BIOGRAPHY. BY THE BIGHT HON. B. DISRAELI, M.P. Fifth and Cheaper Edition, Revised. Post 8vo. 10s. Gd. From Blackwood's ]\Iagazine. — " This biography cannot fail to attract the deep attention of the public. We are bound to say, that as a political biography we have rarely, if ever, met with a book more dexterously handled, or more replete with interest. The history of the famous session of 1846, as written by Disraeli in that briUiant and pointed style of which he is so consummate a master, is deeply interesting. He has traced this memorable struggle with a vivacity and powerkunequalled as yet in any narrative of Parliamentary proceedings." From The Dublin University Magazine. — " A political biography of Lord George Bentinck by Mr. Disraeli must needs be a work of interest and importance. Either the subject or the writer would be sufficient to invest it with both — the combination surrounds it with peculiar attractions. In this most interesting volume IVIr. Disraeli has produced a memoir of his friend in which he has combined the warmest enthusiasm of atfectionate attachment with the calmness of the critic." From The Morning Herald — " Mr. Disraeli's tribute to the memory of his departed friend is as graceful and as touching as it is accurate and impartial. No one of Lord George Bentinck's colleagues could have been selected, who, from his high literary attainments, his personal intimacy, and party associations, would have done such complete justice to the memory of a friend and Parlia- mentary associate. Mr. Disraeli has here presented us with the very type and embodiment of what history should be. His sketch of the condition of parties is seasoned with some of those piquant personal episodes of party manoeuvres and private intrigues, in the author's happiest and most captivating vein, which convert the dry details of politics into a sparkling and agreeable narrative." LOUD PALMERSTON'S OPINIONS AND POLICY; AS MINISTER. DIPLOMATIST, AND STATESMAN, during more than forty years of public life. 1 V. 8vo., with Portrait, 12s. " This work ought to have a place in every political library. It gives a com- plete view of the sentiments and opinions by which the policy of Lord Palmerston has been dictated as a diplomatist and statesman." — Chronicle. " This is a remarkable and seasonable pubhcation ; but it is something more — it is a valuable addition to the historical treasures of our countrj' during more than forty of the most memorable years of our annals. We earnestly recommend flie volume to general perusal." — Standard. 4 HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE LIFE OE MARIE DE MEDICIS, QUEEN OF FRANCE, CONSORT OF HENRY IV., AND REGENT UNDER LOUIS XIIL BY MISS PARDOE, Author of "Louis XIV. and the Court of France, in the 1 7th Century," &c. Second Edition. 3 large vols. 8vo,, with Fine Portraits. " A fascinating book. The history of such a woman as the beautiful, impulsive, earnest, and affectionate Marie de Medicis could only be done justice to by a female pen, impelled by all the sympathies of womanhood, but strengthened by an erudition by which it is not in every case accompanied. In Miss Pardee the unfortunate Queen has found both these requisites, and the result has been a biography combining the attractiveness of romance with the reliableness of his- tory, and which, taking a place midway between the ' frescoed galleries' of Thierry, and the 'philosophic watch-tower of Guizot,'hasalI the pictorial brilliancy of the one, with much of the reflective speculation of the other." — Daily News. "■ A valuable, well-written, and elaborate biography, displaying an unusual amount of industry and research." — Morning Chronicle. " A careful and elaborate historical composition, rich in personal anecdote. Nowhere can a more intimate acquaintance be obtained with the principal events and leading personages of the first half of the 17th century." — Morning Post. " A work of high literary and historical merit. Rarely have the strange vicissitudes of romance been more intimately blended with the facts of real history than in the life of Marie de Medicis ; nor has the difficult problem oi combining with the fidelity of biography the graphic power of dramatic delineation been often more successfully solved than by the talented author of the volumes before us. As a personal narrative, Miss Pardoe's admirable biography possesses the most absorbing and constantly sustained interest ; as a historical record of the events of which it treats, its merit is of no ordinary description." — John Bull. " A life more dramatic than that of Marie de Medicis has seldom been written: one more imperially tragic, never. The period of French history chosen by Miss Pardoe is rich in all manner of associations, and brings together the loftiest names and most interesting events of a stirring and dazzling epoch. She has been, moreover, exceedingly fortunate in her materials. A mamiscript of the Com- mandeur de Rambure, Gentleman of the Bedchamber under the Kings Henry IV. Louis XIIL, and Louis XIV., consisting of the memoirs of the writer, with al the most memorable events which took place during the reigns of those three Majesties, from the year 1594 to that of IGtiO, Avas placed at her disposal bj M. de la Plane, Member of the Inslitut Royal de la France. This valuabh record is very voluminous, and throws a flood of light on every transaction. 0: this important document ani])le use has been judiciously made by Miss Pardoe and her narrative, accordingly, has a fulness and particularity possessed by noiu other, and which adds to the dramatic interest of the subject. The work is verj elegantly written, and will be read willi delight. It forms another moiunnent t( the worthiness of female intellect in the age we live in." — Illustrated News HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. MEMOIRS OF THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE SECRET HISTORY OF THE COURTS OF FRANCE, RUSSIA, AND GERMANY, ■WEITTEW BY HERSELF, And Edited by Her Grandson, the Count de Montbrison. 3 vols. Post 8vo. 31s. 6d. The Baroness d'Oberkirch, being the intimate friend of the Empress of Russia, wife of Paid I., and the confidential companion of the Ducliess of Bourbon, her facilities for obtaining information respecting the most private atfairs of the principal Courts of Europe, render her Memoirs unrivalled as a book of interest- ing anecdotes of the royal, noble, and other celebrated individuals who flourished on the continent during the latter part of the last century. Among the royal per- sonages introduced to the reader in this work, are Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Philip Egalite, and all the Princes of France then living — Peter the Great, the Empress Catherine, the Emperor Paul, and his sons Constantine and Alexander, of Russia — Frederick the Great and Prince Henry of Prussia — The Emperor Joseph II. of Austria — Gustavus III. of Sweden — Princess Christina of Saxony — Sobieski, and Czartoriski of Poland — and the Princes of Brunswick and Wurtem- berg. Among the remarkable persons are the Princes and Princesses de Lamballe, de Ligne and Galitzin — the Dukes and Duchesses de Choiseul, de Mazarin, de Boufflers, de la Valliere, de Guiche, de Penthievre, and de Polignac — Cardinal de Rohan, Marshals Biron and d'Harcourt, Count de Stareuiberg, Baroness de Krudener, Madame Geoflrin, Talleyrand, Mirabeau, and Necker — with Count Cagliostro, Mesnier, Vestris, and Madame Mara; and the work also includes such literary celebrities as Voltaire, Condorcet, de la Harpe, de Beaumarchais, Rousseau, Lavater, Bernouilli, Rayiial, de I'Epee, Hnber, Gothe, Wieland, Male- sherbes, Marmoniel, de Stael and de Genlis ; with some singular disclosures respecting those celebrated Englishwomen, Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, and Lady Craven, Margravine of Anspach. " The Baroness d'Oberkirch, whose remarkable Memoirs are here given to the public, saw inuch of courts and courtiers, and her Memoirs are filled with a variety of anecdotes, not alone of lords and ladies, but of emperors and empresses, kings and queens, and reigning princes and princesses. As a picture of society anterior to the French Kevolution, the book is the latest and most perfect production of its kind extant ; and as such, besidts its minor value as a book of amusement, it possesses a major value iis a work of information, which, in the interest of historical truth, is, without exaggeration, almost incalculable." — Observer. "Thoroughly genuine and unaffected, these Memoirs display the whole mind of a woman who was well worlh knowing, and relate a large part of her experience among people with whose names ana characters the world will be at all times busy. A keen observer, and by position thrown in the high pl.-ices of the world, the Baroness d'Oberkirch was the very woman to write J/einoirs that would interest future generations. We commend these volumes most heartily to every reader They are a perfect magazine of pleasant anecdotes and interesting characteristic things. We lay down these charming volumes with regret, 'ihey will entertain the most fastidious readers, and instruct the most informed." — Examiner. "An intensely interesting autobiography." — Morning Chronicle. " A valuable addition to the personal history of an important period. The volumes deserve general popularity" — Daily Nfws. " One of the most interesting pieces of contemporary history, and one of the richest collections of remarkable anecdotes and valuable reminiscences ever produced." — John Bull. 6 HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. MEMOIRS OF JOHN ABERNETIIY, E.H.S., WITH A VIEW OF HIS WRITINGS, LECTURES, AND CHARACTER. BY GEOKGE MACTLWATN, F.R.C.S., • Author of " Medicine and Surgery One Inductive Science," &c. Second Edition. 2 v. post 8vo., -with Portrait. 21s. " A memoir of high professional and general interest." — Morning- Post. " These memoirs convey a graphic, and, we believe, faithful picture of thi celebrated John Abernethy. The volumes are written in a popular style, and wil afford to the general reader much instruction and entertainment." — Herald. " This is a book which ought to be read by every one. The professional mai will find in it the career of one of the most illustrious professors of medicine o our own or of any other age — the student of intellectual science the progress of truly profound philosopher — and all, the lesson afforded by a good man's life Abernethy's memory is worthy of a good biographer, and happily it has foum one. Mr. Macilwain writes well; and evidently, in giving the history of hi deceased friend, he executes a labour of love. The arrangement of his matter i excellent : so happily interwoven with narrative, anecdotes, often comical enougl and deep reflection, as to carry a reader forward irresistibly." — Standard. THE LITERATURE AND ROMANCI OF NORTHERN EUROPE: CONSTITUTING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE IITERATURE OF SWEDE> DENMARK, NORWAY, AND ICELAND, WITH COPIOUS SPECIMENS OF TH MOST CELEBRATED HISTORIES, ROMANCES, POPULAR LEGENDS AND TALES OLD CHIVALROUS BALLADS, TRAGIC AND COMIC DRAMAS, NATIONAL SONGS NOVELS, AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE PRESENT DAY. BY "WILLIAM AND MARY HCWITT. 2 vols. 21s. " English readers have long been indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Howitt. The have now increased our obligations by presenting us with this most charming an valuable work, by means of which the great majority of the reading public wi be, for the first time, made acquainted with the rich stores of intellectual wealt long garnered in the literature and beautiful romance of Northern Europe From the famous Edda, whose origin is lost in antiquity, dt)wn to the novels c Miss Bremer and Baroness Knorring, the prose and ])oetic writings of Denmarl Norway, Sweden, and Icelaiul are here introduced to us in a manner at one singularly comprehensive and concise. It is no dry enumeration of names, bu the very marrow and spirit of the various works displayed before us. We hav old ballads and fairy tales, always fascinating ; we have scenes from plays, an selections from the poets, with most attractive biographies of great men. Th songs and ballads are translated with exquisite ])oetic beauty." — Sun. " A book full of information — and as such, a welcome addition to our literatun The translations — especially of some of the ballads and other poems — arc exe cuted with spirit and taste." — AthenoEum. HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. MILITARY LIFE IN ALGERIA. BY THE COUNT P. DE CASTELLANE, 2 vols. 21s. " We commend this book as really worth perusal. The volumes make us familiarly acquainted with the nature of Algerian experience. Changamier, Cavaignac, Canrohert, Lamoriciere, and St. Arnaud are brought prominently before the reader." — Examiner. " These volumes will be read with extraordinary interest. The vivid manner in which the author narrates his adventures, and the number of personal anecdotes that he fells, engage the reader's attention in an extraordinary manner. The sketches which the Count gives of the French leaders convey to us a very accu- rate idea of some of the most remarkable militaiy celebrities who have figured in the recent political events in France — Changarnier, Bugeaud, Lamoriciere, Cavaignac, Canrobert, Bosquet, among many others. It would be difficult to point out a chapter that has not its peculiar charms." — Sunday Times. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF AN ENGLISH SOLDIER IN THE UNITED STATES' ARMY. 2 vols. 21s. " The novelty characterising these interesting volumes is likely to secure them many readers. In the first place, an account of the internal organization, the manners and customs of the United States' Federal Army, is iu itself, a novelty, and a still greater novelty is to have this account rendered by a man who had sen-ed in the English before joining the American army, and who can give his report after having every opportunity of comparison. The author went through the Mexican campaign with General Scott, and his volumes contain much descrip- tive matter concerning battles, sieges, and marches on Mexican territory, besides their sketches of the normal chronic condition of a United States soldier in time of peace." — Daily News. HISTORY OF THE BRITISH COINQUESTS IN INDIA. B Y HORACE ST. JOHN". 2 vols. 21s. " A work of great and permanent historical value and interest." — Post. " The style is graphic and spirited. The facts are well related and artistically grouped. The narrative is always readable and interesting." — Athenceum. HISTORY OF CORFU; AND OF THE REPUBLIC OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS. BY LIEUT. H. J. "W. JERVIS, Eoyal Artillery. 1 vol., with Illustrations, 10s. 6d. " Written with great care and research, and including probably all the particulars of any moment in the history of Corfu." — Athenmum. 8 HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE JOURNALS AND CORRESPONDENCE OF GENERAL SIR IlAliliT CALVE IIT, BART., G.C.B. and G.C.H., ADJUTANT-GENERAL OF THE FORCES UNDER H.R.H. THE DUKE OF YORK. COMPRISING THE CAMPAIGNS IN FLANDERS AND HOLLAND IN 1793-94; WITH AN APPENDIX CONTAINING HIS PLANS FOR THE DEFENCE OF THE COUNTRY IN CASE OF INVASION. EDITED BY HIS SON, SIR HAKBY VERNEY, BART. 1 vol. roj'al 8vo., with large maps, 14s. bound. " Both the journals and letters of Capt. Calvert are full of interest. The letters, in particular, are entitled to much praise. Not too long, easy, graceful, not without wit, and everywhere marked by good sense and good taste — the series addressed by Capt. Calvert to his sister are literary compositions of no common order. With the best means of observing the progress of the war, and with his faculties of judgment exercised and strengthened by experience — a quick eye, a placid temper, and a natural aptitude for language rendered Capt. Calvert in many respects a model of a military critic. Sir Harry Verney has performed his duties of editor very well. The book is creditable to all pai'ties concerned in its production." — Athenauin. COLONEL LANDMANN'S ADVENTURES AND RECOLLECTIONS. 2 vols. 21s. "Among the anecdotes in this work will be found notices of King George III., the Dukes of Kent, Cumberland, Cambridge, Clarence, and Richmond, the Princess Augusta, General Garth, Sir Harry Mildmay, Lord Charles Somerset, Lord Edward Fitzgerald, Lord Heathfield, Captain Grose, &c. The volumes abound in inte- resting matter. The anecdotes are one and all amusing." — Observer. " These ' Adventures and Recollections' are those of a gentleman whose birth and pi'ofession gave him facilities of access to distinguished society. Colonel Landmann writes so agreeably that we have little doubt that his volumes will be acceptable." — Athenasum. ADVENTURES OF THE CON NAUGHT RANGERS. SECOND SEraES. BY "WILIiIAM: GRATTAlSr, ESQ,., LATE LIEUTENANT CONNAUGHT RANGERS. 2 VOlS. 21s. " In this second series of the adventures of this famous regiment, the author extends his narrative from the first formation of the gallant 88th up to the occupation of Paris. All the battles, sieges, and skirmishes, in which the regi- ment took part, are described. The volumes are interwoven with original anec- dotes that give a freshness and spirit to the whole. The stories, and the sketches of society and manners, with the anecdotes of the celebrities of the time, are told in an agreeable and unaffected manner. The work bears all the characteristics of a soldier's straightforward and entertaining narrative." — Sunday Times. HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. CLASSIC AND HISTORIC PORTRAITS. BY" JAMES BEUCE. 2 vols. 21s. This work comprises Biographies of the following Classic and Historic Per- sonages : — Sappho, /Esop, Pythagoras, Aspasia, MiUo, Agesilatis, Socrates, Plato, Alcil)iades, Helen of Troy, Alexander the Great, Demetrius Poliorcetes, Scipio Africanus, Sylla, Cleopatra, Jnlius Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Gemianicus, Ca!iu:ula, Lollia Paulina, Caesonia, Boadicca, Agripi)ina, Poppaea, Otho, Coin- niodus, Caracalla, Heliogabalns, Zeiiol)ia, Julian the Apostate, Eudocia, Theodora, ChaHemagne, Abelard and Ileloise, Elizabeth of Hungary, Dante, Robert Bruce, Igiiez de Castro, Agnes Sorel, Jane Snore, Lucrezia Borgia, Anne Bulleii, Diana of Poitiers, Catherine de Medicis, Queen Eli7,abeth, Mary Queen of Scots, Cervantes, Sir Kenelm Digby, John Sobieski, Anne of Austria, Ninon de I'Enclos, Mile, de Montpensier, the Duchess of Orleans, Madame de Maiutenon, Catliarine of Russia, and Madame de Stael. "A Book which has many merits, most of all, that of a fresh and unhacknied subject. The volumes are tlie result of a good deal of reading, and have besides an original spirit and flavour about tlieni, which have pleased us much. Mr. Bruce is often eloquent, often humorous, and has a proper appreciation of the wit and sarcasm belonging in abundance to his theme. The variety and amount of inforujation scattered through his volumes entitle them to be generally read, and to be received on all hands with merited favour." — Examiner. " We find in these piquant volumes the liberal outpourings of a ripe scholarship, the results of wide and various reading, given in a style and manner at once plea- sant, gossippy and picturesque." — Athcnceum. " A series of biographical sketches, remarkable for their truth and fidelity. The work is one which will please the classical scholar and the student of history, while it also contains entertaining and instructive matter for the general reader." — Literary Gazette. RULE AND MISRULE OF THE ENGLISH IN AMERICA. BY THE AUTHOR OF " SAM SLICK," &c, 2 vols. 21s. " We conceive this work to be by far the most valuable and important Judge Haliburton has ever written. While teeming with interest, moral and historical, to the general reader, it equally constitutes a philosophical study for the politician and statesman. It will be found to let in a flood of light upon the actual origin, formation, and progress of the republic of the United States." — N. and M. Gaz. " We believed the author of this work to possess a power of humour and sarcasm second only to that of Rabelais and Sidney Snsith, and a genuine pathos worthy of Henry Fielding or Charles Dickens. In the volumes before us he breaks upon new, and untrodden ground. We hail this book with pleasure ; we consider it an honour to Judge Haliburton. He places before us, fairly and impartially, the history of English ru'e in America. The book is not only a boon to the historic student, it is also filled with reflections such as may well engage the attention of the legislating statesman. Mr. Haliburton also shows us the true position of the Canadas, explains the evils of our colonial system, and points out tlie remedies by which these evils may be counteracted." — Irish Quarterly Review. 10 HURST AND BLACKETT's NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE M A 11 V ELS OF SCIENCE,^' AND THEIR TESTIMONY TO HOLY WRIT ; A POPULAR MANUAL OF THE SCIENCES. B Y S. ^W. P TJ L L O M, E S Q. DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO THE KING OF HANOVER. Sixth Edition, with Numerous Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. " This work treats of the whole origin of nature in an intelligent style ; it puts into the hands of every man the means of information on facts the most sublime, and converts into interesting and eloquent description problems which once perplexed the whole genius of mankind. We congratulate the author on his research, his information, and his graceful and happy language." — Britannia. " The skill displayed in the treatment of the sciences is not the least marvel in the volume. The reasonings of the author are forcible, fluently expressed, and calculated to make a deep impression. Genuine service has been done to the cause of Revelation by the issue of such a book, which is more than a mere literary triumph. It is a good action." — Globe. " Its tone is grave, grand, and argumentative, and rises to the majesty of poetry. As a commentary upon the stupendous facts which exist in the universe, it is truly a work which merits our admiration, and we unhesitatingly refer our readers to its fascinating pages." — Dispatch. " Without parading the elaborate nature of his personal investigations, the author has laid hold of the discoveries in every department of natural science in a manner to be apprehended by the meanest understanding, but which will at the same time command the attention of the scholar." — Messenger. " A grand tour of the sciences. Mr. Fnllom starts from the Sun, runs round by the Planets, noticing Comets as he goes, and puts up for a rest at the Central Sun. He gets into the Milky Way, which brings him to the Fixed Stars and Nebulje. He munches the crust of the Earth, and looks over Fossil Animals and Plants. This is followed by a disquisition on the science of the Scriptures. He then' comes back to the origin of the Earth, visits the Magnetic Poles, gets among Thunder and Lightning, makes the acquaintance of Magnetism and Elec- tricity, dips into Rivers, draws science from Springs, goes into Volcanoes, through which he is drawn into a knot of Earthquakes, comes to the surface with Gaseous Emanations, and sliding down a Landsli]), renews his journey on a ray of Light, goes through a Prism, sees a Mirage, meets with the Flying Dutchman, observes an Optical Illusion, steps over the Rainbow, enjoys a dance with the Northern Aurora, takes a little Polarized Light, boils some Water, sets a Steam-Engine in motion, witnesses the expansion of Metals, looks at the Thermometer, and refreshes himself with Ice. Soon he is at Sea, examining tlie Tides, tumbling on the Waves, swimming, diving, and ascertaining the pressure of Fluids. We meet him next in the Air, running through all its properties. Having remarked on the propagation of Sounds, he j)anses for a bit of Music, and goes olf into the Vegetable Kingdom, then travels through the Animal Kingdom, and having visited the various races of the human family, winds up with a demonstration of the Anatomy of Man." — Examiner. VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 11 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD. COMPRISING A WINTER PASSAGE ACROSS THE ANDES TO CHILI, WITH A VISIT TO THE GOLD REGIONS OF CALIFORNIA AND AUSTRALIA, THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, JAVA, &C. BY F, GEBSTAECKEK. 3 vols, post 8vo. 31s. 6d. " Starting from Bremen for California, the author of this Narrative proceeded to Rio, and thence to Buenos Ayres, where he exchanged the wild seas for the yet wikler Pampas, and made his way on horseback to Valparaiso across the Cordilleras — a winter passage full of difficulty and danger. From Valparaiso he sailed to Califoinia, and visited San Francisco, Sacramento, and the mining districts generally. Thence he steered his course to the South Sea Islands, resting at Honolulu, Tahiti, and other gems of the sea in that quarter, and from thence to Sydney, marching through the Murray Valley, and inspecting the Adelaide district. From Australia he dashed onward to Java, riding through the interior, and taking a general survey of Batavia, with a glance at Japan and the Japanese. An active, intelligent, observant man, the notes he made of his adven- tures are full of variety and interest. His descriptions of places and persons are lively, and his remarks on natural productions and the phenomena of earth, sea, and sky are always sensible, and made with a view to practical results. Those portions of the Narrative which refer to California and Australia are replete with vivid skftches ; and indeed the whole work abounds with living and picturesque descriptions of men, manners, and localities." — Globe. " The author of this comprehensive narrative embarked at Bremen for Cali- fornia, and then took ship to the South Sea Islands, of which and of their inhabit- ants we have some pleasant sketches. From the South Sea Islands he sailed to Australia, where he effected a very daring and adventurous journey by himself through the Murray Valley to Adelaide. He then proceeded to Java, the interior of which he explored to a considerable distance. Before he departed for Europe, he remained some time at Batavia, and was so fortunate as to witness the arrival of the Japanese vessel bringing her annual cargo of goods from Japan. Inde- pendently of great variety — for these pages are never monotonous or dull — a pleasant freshness pervades Mr. Gerstaecker's chequered narrative. It offers much to interest, and conveys much valuable information, set forth in a very lucid and graphic manner." — Athenceum. " These travels consisted principally in a ' winter passage across the Andes to Chili, with a visit to the gold regions of California and Australia, the South Sea Islands, Java, rout, Tripoli, Antioch, Aleppo, Alexandretta, Adana, and Cyprus. Of several of these famous localities we know no more compact and clearer account than that given in these volumes. We have to thank Mr. Neale for one of the best books of travels that we have met with for a very long time." — Literary Gazette. VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 17 EIGHTEEN YEARS ON THE GOLD C A S T r A F II I C A ; INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVE TRIBES, AND THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH EUROPEANS. BY BRODIE CBUICKSH AWK, MEMBER OF THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL, CAPE COAST CASTLE. 2 VOls. 21s. " This is one of the most interesting works that ever yet came into our hands. It possesses the charin of introducing us to habits and manners of the human family of which before we had no conception. Before reading Mr. Cruickshank's vohnnes we were wholly unaware of the ignorance of all Europeans, as to the social state of the inhabitants of Western Africa. Mrs. Beccher Stowe's work has, indeed, made us all familiar with the degree of intelligence and the disposi- tions of the transplanted African ; but it has been reserved to Mr. Cruickshank to exhibit the children of Ham in their original state, and to prove, as his work proves to demonstration, that, by the extension of a knowledge of the Gospel, and by that only, can the African be brought within the pale of civilization. We anxiously desire to direct public attention to a work so valuable. An incidental episode in the work is an affecting narrative of the death of the gifted Letitia Elizabeth Landon (L.E.L.), written a few months after her marriage with Governor Maclean. It relieves the memory of both husband and wife from all the vile scandals that have been too long permitted to defile their story." — Standard. " This work will be read with deep interest, and will give a fresh impulse to the exertions of philanthropy and religion." — John Bull. LIEE IN SWEDEN, WITH EXCURSIONS IN NORWAY AND DENMARK. B"2" SELIINTA BUNBURY. 2 vols. 21s. " The author of this clever work never misses alively sketch. Her descriptions of life in Sweden and Norway ai-e all piquant, and most of them instructive, illustrating northern life in all its pha.^es, from the palace to the cottage. The work is well calculated to excite in the English public a desire to visit scenes which have as yet been exposed to the view of few travellers." — Daily News. " Two delightful, well-informed volumes, by a lady of much acuteness, lively imagination, and shrewd observance. The whole work is full of delightful remembrances tonched otf with the skill of an accomplished artist in pen and ink, and it can be safely recommended to the reader, as the freshest, and most certainly the trufhfuUest publication upon the North that has of late years been given to the world." — Observer. " There is an inexpressible charm in Miss Bunbury's narrative. Nothing escaped her watchful attention and her descriptions have a piquancy and liveliness which greatly enhance their interest." — Britannia. 18 HURST AND BLACKETT's NEW PUBLICATIONS. NARRATIVE OF A FIVE YEARS' KESIDENCE AT NEPAUL. BY CAPTAIN THOMAS SMITH, Late Assistant Political-Resident at Nepaul. 2 v. post 8vo. 21s. " No man could be better qualified to describe Nepaul than Captain Smith ; and his concise, but clear and graphic account of its history, its natural produc- tions, its laws and customs, and the character of its warlike inhabitants, is very agreeable and instructive reading. A separate chapter, not the least entertaining in the book, is devoted to anecdotes of the Nepaulese mission, of whom, and of their visit to Europe, many remarkable stories are told." — Post. CANADA AS IT AVAS, IS, AND MAY BE. By the late Lieutenant-Colonel Sir R. Boxnycastle. With an Account of Recent Transactions, BY SIR J. E. ALEXANDER, K.L.S., &c. 2 v. with Maps, &c. 21s. " These volumes offer to the British public a clear and trustworthy statement of the affairs of Canada, and the eff'ects of the immense public works in progress and completed ; with sketches of locahties and scenery, amusing anecdotes of personal observation, and generally every information which may be of use to the traveller or settler, and the military and political reader. The information ren- dered is to be thoroughly relied on as veracious, full, and conclusive." — Mes- senger. FIVE YEARS IN THE WEST INDIES. BY CHARLES 'W. DAY, ESQ. 2 vols. 21s. " It would be unjust to deny the vigour, brilliancy, and varied interest of this work, the abundant stores of anecdote and interest, and the copious detail of local habits and pecuharities in each island visited in succession." — Globe. SCENES FROM SCRIPTURE. BY THE REV. G. CROLY, LL.D. 10s. 6d. " Eminent in every mode of literature. Dr. Croly stands, in our judgment, first among the living poets of Great Britain — the only man of our day entitled by his power to venture within the sacred circle of religious poets." — Standard. "An admirable addition to the library of religious families." — John Bult. THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A MISSIONARY. BY THE REV. J. P. FLETCHER, Curate of South Ilampstead. Author of "A Residence at Nineveh." 2 v. 21s. " A gra))hic sketch of missionary life." — Examiner. " We conscientiously recommend this book, as well for its amusing character as for the spirit it displays of earnest piety." — Standard. HURST AND BLACKETT's NEW PUBLICATIONS. 19 FAMILY ROMANCE; OR, DOxMESTIC ANNALS OF THE ARISTOCRACY. BY J. B. BURKE, ESQ,., Author of " The Peerage," &c. 2 v., 21s Among the many other interesting Ifgends and romantic family histories com. prised in these voliinies, will be foniid the following:— The wonderfnl narrativ* of Maria Stella, Lady Newborongh, who claimed on such strong evidence to be i Princess of the House of Orleans, and disputed the identity of Louis Philippe— The story of the humble marriage of the beautiful Countess of Strathmore, anc the sufferings and fate of her only cliild — The Leaders of Fashion, from Gramon to D'Orsay — Tlie rise of the celebrated Baron Ward, now Prime Minister a Parma — The curious claim to the Earldom of Crawford— The Strange Vicissitude; of our Great Families, replete with the most romantic details — The story of thi Kirkpatriclcs of Cioseburn (the ancestors of the French Empress), and the re markable tradition associated with them — Tiie Legend of the Lambtons — Thi verification in our own time of the famous prediction as to the Earls of Mar- Lady Ogilvy's escape — The Bereslord and Wynyard ghost stories, correctly told— &c., &c. " It were impossible to praise too highly as a work of amusement these two mos interesting volumes, whether we should have regard to its excellent i)lan or it not less excellent execution. The volumes are just what ought to be found oi every drawing-room table. Here you have nearly fifty captivating romances, witl the pith of all their interest preserved in undiminished poignancy, and any on may be read in half an hour. It is not the least of their merits that th romances are founded on fact — or what, at least, has been handed down for trutl by long tradition — and the romance of reality far exceeds the romance of fictior Each story is told in the clear, unaffected style with which the author's forme works have made the public familiar, while they afford evidence of the valuf even to a work of amusement, of that historical and genealogical learning tha may justly be expected of the author of 'The Peerage.' The aristocracy an gentry owe, indeed, a great debt to Mr. Burke as their family historian."- Stmu/ard. " The very reading for sea-side or fire-side in our hours of idleness." — Atht noRum. SPAIN AS IT IS. BY G. A. HOSKINS, ESQ,. 2 vols. 21s. "To the tourist this work will prove invaluable. It is the most complete an interesting portraiture of Spain that has ever come under our notice." — John Bui NAVAL ARCHITECTURE: A TREATISE ON SHIP-BUILDING, AND THE RIG OF CLIPPER! WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR A NEW METHOD OF LAYING DOWN VESSELS. BY LOBD BOBERT MONTAGU, A.M. Second Edition, with 54 Diagrams. 6s. " Lord Montagu's work will be equally valuable to the ship-builder and tl ship-owner — to the mariner and the commander of yachts." — U. S. Magazine. HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. SAM SLICK'S WISE SAWS AND MODERN INSTANCES; OR, WHAT HE SAID, DID, OR INVENTED. Second Edition. 2 vols, post 8vo. 21s. " We do not fear to predict that these delightful volumes will be the most )pular, as, beyond doubt, they are the best of all Judge Haliburton's admirable orks. The ' Wise Saws and Modern Instances' evince powers of imagination id expression far beyond what even his former publications could lead any one 1 ascribe to the author. We have, it is true, long been famdiar with his quaint jmour and racy narrative, but the volumes before us take a loftier range, and e so rich in fun and good sense, that to offer an extract as a sample would be 1 injustice to author and reader. It is one of the pleasantest books we ever ad, and we earnestly recorrruiend it." — Standard. " Let Sam Slick go a mackarel fishing, or to court in England — let him venture one among a tribe of the sauciest single women that ever banded themselves gether in electric chain to turn tables or to mystify man — our hero always anages to come otf with iiying colours — to beat every craftsman in the cunning ■ his own calling — to get at the heart of every maid's and matron's secret, he book before us will be read and laughed over. Its quaint and racy dialect ill please some readers— its abundance of yarns will amuse others. There is •mething in the volumes to suit readers of every humour." — AthencEum. " The humour of Sam Slick is inexhaustible. He is ever and everywhere a elcome visitor; smiles greet his approach, and wit and wisdom hang upon his mgue. The present is altogether a most edifying production, remarkable alike ir its racy humour, its sound philosophy, the felicity of its illustrations, and the jlicacy of its satiie. Whether he is making lova to Sophy, or chatting with the resident about English men and manners, or telling ghost stories, or indulging in ly-dreams, or sketching the characters of Yankee skippers, or poaching in our iheries, or enticing a British man-of-war on to a sand-bar, he is equally delightful ; larming us by the graphic vivacity and picturesque quaiutness of his descriptions, id, above all, by his straightforward honesty and truth. We promise our ;aders a great treat from the perusal of these ' Wise Saws and ^Modern Instances,' hich contain a world of practical wisdom, and a treasury of the richest fun." — forning Post. " As a work embodying the cynicism of Rochefoucanlt, with the acuteness of ascal, and the experience of Theophrastus or La Bruycre, it may be said that, ccept Don Quixote, the present work has no rival." — Observer. TRAITS OE AMERICAN HUMOUR. EDITED BY THE AUTHOB. OP " SAM SLICK." 3 vols. 31s. Gd. "We have seldom met with a work niore rich in fun or more generally eliglitful." — Standard. " No man has done more than the facetious Judge Ilaliburton, through the loutli of the iiiimilable ' Sam,' to m;tke the old parent country recognise and ijireciate tier (piccr transatlantic jirngeny. His present collection of comic ories and laughable traits is a budget of fun full of rich specimens of American umour." — Globe. WORKS OF FICTION. 21 THE ROSES. BY THE AUTHOR OF " THE HISTORY OF A FLIBT," &c. 3 vols, " The author of ' The Flirt' is ever welcome as a writer. ' The Roses' is a novel which cannot fail to cliarin.'' — Observer. " ' The Roses' displays, with the polish always attending a later work, all th€ talent which appeared in ' The Flirt," and ' Tlie Manoeuvring Mother.' It is a book which no one would lay down unfinished." — Standard. " In this charming novel the author has brought out the female character in three well-chosen contrasts. The whole tale is a history of sweet and tendei hearts to which the reader cannot refuse his sympathy." — Jokti Bull. ELECTRA : A STORY OE MODERN TIMES. BY THE AUTHOR OP "ROCKINGHAM." WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY LORD GERALD FITZGERALD. SECOND EDITION. 3 V From the Times. — " The author of ' Rockingham' holds always a vigorous pen. It is imi)ossible to deny him the hapjjy faculty of telling a pleasing storj with ability and power. His characters are the flesh and blood we meet in oui daily walks; their language is natural, appropriate, and to the purpose. Wean bound to extend our highest praise to the skill with which the several characteri in ' Electra' are pourtrayed, and with which the interest of the story is sustainec to the very last chapter. Lady Glenarlowe and her daughter, Lord Glenarlow( and Electra, are all finely-drawn pictures, and are full of touches by a maste hand. We know not when we have seen more exquisite painting than in th< character of Electra, or more convincing evidence of the knowledge of humai nature, in its subtlest as weU as most prominent features, than is revealed in thi ■«"idely-distiact characters of Lady Glenarlowe and her stepson." AILTEFORT): A EAMILY HISTORY. BY THE AUTHOR OP " JOH]>T DBAYTOIxT." 3 v. " A work abounding in fascination of an irresistible kind." — Observer. "A delightful tale — full of affecting incident." — Standard. " A most charming and absorbing story." — Critic. " The book throughout excites the interest of reality." — Spectator. " ' Aiheford' is the biography of the clever writer of ' John Drayton.' It i a deeply interesting tale." — Britannia. CHARLES AUCHESTER. DEDICATED TO THE RIGHT HON. B. DISRAELI. 3 VOls. " The author has originality and a strong imagination." — Times. " Music has never had so glowing an advocate as the author of these volumes There is an amazing deal of ability displayed in them." — Herald. " The life of an enthusiast in music, hy himself. The work is full of talent The sketches of the masters and artists ai'e life-like. In Seraphael all will recog nize .\Jendelssohn, and in Miss Benette, Miss Lawrence, and Anastase, Berlioz Jenny Lind, and another well-known to artist life, will be easily detected. T( every one who cares for music, the volumes will prove a delightful study."— Britan7iia. 22 HURST ANO BLACKETT's NEW PUBLICATIONS. H A E E Y M U I E; A STORY OF SCOTTISH LIPE. BY THE AUTHOR OF "MAEOARET MAITLAND." Second Edition. 3 vols, post 8vo. "We prefer ' Harry Muir' to most of the Scottish novels that have appeared since Gait's domestic stories. This new tale, by the author of ' Margaret Maitland,' is a real picture of the weakness of man's nature and the depths of woman's kind- ness. The narrative, to repeat our praise, is not one to be entered on or parted from without our regard for its writer being increased." — AthencEum. " A picture of life, everywhere genuine in feeling, perfect in expression." — Examiner. " This is incomparably the best of the author's works. In it the brilliant promise afforded by ' Margaret Maitland' has been fully realised, and now there can be no question that, for graphic pictures of Scottish life, the author is entitled to be ranked second to none among modern writers of fiction." — Cale- donian Mercury. BY THE SA:ME AUTHOR. ADAM GEAEME OF MOSSGRAY. Second Edition. 3 vols. " A story awakening genuine emotions of interest and delight by its admirable pictures of Scottish life and scenery." — Post. CALEB FIELD. A TALE OF THE PURITANS. Cheaper Edition. 1 v. 6s. " This beautiful production is every way worthy of its author's reputation in the very tirst rank of contemporary writers." — Standard. DAEIEN; OE, THE MEECHANT PEINCE. BY ELIOT ■WARBUETOIsr, Second Edition. 3 vols. " The scheme for the colonization of Darien by Scotchmen, and the opening of a communication between the East and West across the Isthmus of Panama, furnishes the foundation of this story, which is in all respects worthy of the high reputation which the author of the ' Crescent and the Cross' had already made for himself. The early history of the IMerchant Prince introduces the reader to the condition of Spain under the Inquisition; the portraitures of Scottish life which occupy a prominent place in the narrative, are full of spirit ; the scenes in America exhibit the state of the natives of the new world at that period ; the daring deeds of the Buccaneers supply a most romantic element in the story ; and an additional interest is infused into it by the introduction of various celebrated characters of the period, such as Law, the French financier, and Paterson, the founder of the Bank of England. All these varied ingredients are treated with that brilliancy of style and powerful descriptive talent, by which the pen of Eliot Warburton was so eminently distinguished." — John Bull. THE EIEST LIEUTENANT'S STOEY. BY LADY CATHARINE LONG. 3 vols. " As a tracing of tlie workings of human passion and principle, the book is full of exquisite beauty, delicacy, and tenderness." — Daily News. WORKS OF FICTION. 23 HIGH AND LOW; OR, LIFE'S CHANCES AND CHANGES. BY THE HON. HENRY COKE. 3 v- THE YOUNG HEIRESS. BY MRS. TROLLOPE. 3 v. " The best of Mrs. TioUope's novels."— Stand'ird. " The knowledge of the world which Mrs. TroUope possesses in so eminent a degree is strongly exliibited in the pages of this novel." — Obserrer. The DEAN'S DAUGHTER, OR, THE DAYS WE LIVE IN. BY MRS. GORE. 3 v. " One of the best of Mrs Gore's stories. The volumes are strewed with smart and sparkling epigram." — Morning Chronicle. CASTLE AVON. By the Author of " EMILIA WYNDHAM," &c. 3 v. •" Castle Avon' is, in our judgment, one of the most successful of the author's works." —Pout. LADY MARION. BY MRS. W. FOSTER. 3 v. "This fascinating novel needs not the attraction of the name of the late Duke of Wellii'gton's niece upon the title-page to commend it to tlie novel readers of the fashionable world. The work gives evidence of talent of no common order." — John Dull, THE LONGWOODS OF THE GRANGE. By the Author of ADELAIDE LINDSAY." 3 V. " 'The Longwoods' are a family eroup, in the story of whose life romance readers will find a charm and an interest similar to that which attends the annals of the ' Vicar of Wakefield.' "—Daily News. UNCLE WALTER. BY MRS. TROLLOPE, 3 v, '" Uncle Walter' is an exceedingly enter- taining novel. It assures Mrs. TroUope more than ever in her position as one of the ablest fiction writers of the day." — Morning Post. THE KINNEARS. A SCOTTISH STORY. 3 v. " We heartily commend this story to the attention of our readers for its power, sim- plicity, and truth. None can read its impres- sive record without interest, and few without improvement."— Jl/or/ii'ng' Post. BROOMHILL ; OR, THE COUNTY BEAUTIES. " ' Broomhiir is a tale of life in polite society. The dialogue is easy— the interest is well sustained." — Athenceum. MARY SEAHAM. BY MRS. GREY, Author of " The Gambler's Wife." 3 v. " Equal to any former novel by its author." — Athencbiim. "An admirable work — a powerfully con- ceived novel, founded on a plot of high moral and dramatic interest." — John Bull. ANNETTE. A Tale. BY W. F. DEACON. With a Memoir of the Author, by the Hon. Sir T. N. Talfourd, D.C.L. 3 v. "'Annette' is a stirring tale, and has enough in it of life and interest to keep it for some years to tome in request. The prefatory memoir by Sir Thomas Talfourd would be at all times interesting, nor the less so for containing two long letters from Sir Walter Scott to Mr. Deacon, full of gentle fai--thinking wisdom.'"— Examiner. CONFESSIONS OF AN ETONIAN. BY C. ROWCROFT, ESQ. 3 v. "The life of an Etonian — his pranks, his follies, his loves, his fortunes, and misfor- tunes — is here amusingly drawn and happily coloured by an accomplished artist. The work is full of anecdote and lively painting of men and manners." — Globe. THE BELLE OF THE VILLAGE. By the Author of " The Old English Gentleman." 3 v. " An admirable story. It may take its place by the side of 'The Old English Gen- tleman.'" — John Bull. The LADY and^the PRIEST. BY MRS. MABERLY. 3 v. THE ARMY AND WAVY. L Published on the 1st of every Month, Price 3s. 6d. COLBURN'S UNITED SERVICE MAGAZLV AND NAVAL AND MILITARY JOURNAL. \ This popular periodical, which has now been established a quarter ( a century, embraces subjects of such extensive variety and powerfi interest as must render it scarcely less acceptable to readers in gener than to the members of those professions for whose use it is more pa ticularly intended. Independently of a succession of Original Pape on innumerable interesting subjects. Personal Narratives, Historic Incidents, Correspondence, &c., each number comprises Biographic Memoirs of Eminent Officers of all branches of service. Reviews of Ne Publications, either immediately relating to the Army or Navy, or i volving subjects of utility or interest to the members of either. Ft Reports of Trials by Courts Martial, Distribution of the Army and Nav General Orders, Circulars, Promotions, Appointments, Births, Marriage Obituary, &c., with all the Naval and Mihtary Intelligence of the Moni " This is confessedly one of the ablest and most attractive periodicals of wh the British press can boast, presenting a wide field of entertainment to i general as well as professional reader. The suggestions for the benefit of two services are distuiguished by vigour of sense, acute and practical observati an ardent love of discipline, tempered by a high sense of justice, honour, an tender regard for the welfare and comfort of our soldiers and seamen." — Glob. " At the head of those periodicals which furnish useful and valuable informat to their peculiar classes of readers, as well as amusement to the general bod} the public, must be placed the ' United Service ^lagazine, and Naval and Miht Journal.' It nunabers among its contributors almost all those gallant spirits ■n have done no less honour to their country by their swords than by their p and abounds with the most interesting discussions on naval and military aff; and stirring narratives of deeds of arms in all parts of the world. Every infor tion of value and interest to both the Services is culled with the greatest dilige from every available source, and the correspondence of various distingui^ officers which enrich its pages is a feature of great attraction. In short, ' United Service Magazine' can be recommended to every reader who posse that attachment to his country which should make him look with the dee interest on its naval and military resources." — Sun. " This truly national periodical is always full of the most valuable matte r professional men." — Morning Herald. HUEST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, t;> uj 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. I OR, I BY ■ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. HEC'O lO-U^^ WAY 011989 rf: 1ZA9B9 a v" I g ^ -^ JUN19 1398 i 2 m fm a fto raw ui UWttc-3'A^ ssm • ' ~ **^ wi I 11 ffiEoe ^J^ilJONVSOl^ "^/^aaAINQ-i^V^' ^^ ^lOSANCElfj-^ o ^0FCAIIF0% 4s^ ^- fj 3 1158 00339 8194 r{l ^^okwmwi^ '^mwm^ '^^mmnis'^ . ^WE UNIVERy/A o ^WEUNIVERi-//, o ^^lOSANCELfj-^ ^IIIBRARYQ^ c? — ^ %a3AINIl]WV ^lOSANCElfj^i o ^/5}J3AINn-3WV WIT! IM UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 001 090 307 8 C~i ^OAavaan-iv> ^- ^ >&Aavaan# ^lUBRARYQr ^ILIBRARYQc. ^WEl]NIVER% ^lOSANCElf/^ ^JIIVOJO"^ '^ s %a3AINfl-3WV^ ^^lllBRARYOc ^lUBRARYQ^ ^.ffOJIlVDJO'^ ^^OJITVOJO"*^ .^i^EUNIVERS'/A f vvlOSANCElfj> O •Ji'^ ^OFCAllF0/?4^ ^OFCAilFOff^