FA MOTU: OR, REEF-ROYIMS II THE SOUTH SEAS. tfte of HAWAIIAN, GEORGIAN AND SOCIETY ISLANDS; WITH MAPS, TWELVE ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS, AND 31 n !2l p p en ft i * RELATING TO THE RESOURCES, SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITION OF POLYNESIA, AND SUBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BY EDWARD T. PERKINS. NEW-YORK: PUDNEY & RUSSELL, PUBLISHERS, No. 79 JOHN-STKEET. 1854. ENTERED, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by PUDNEY &. RUSSELL, in the Ckrk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New-York. Pur>x*y & RUSSSLL, PRINTERS, 79 JOHN-STREET. JARVIS M. ANDREWS, M. D.. OF NEW- YORK, &s a pefcge of JFrieu&sl)ip THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. NEARLY six years have elapsed since the writer of these sketches was numbered among the crew of an American whaler, and but little more than six months since he was passenger on board an English brig, voyaging in the South Pacific. Through sheer necessity recourse was had to writing, to beguile the monotony of an existence between sky and ocean, and the de- lineation of scenes and scenery has been attempted in the unpoetic confines of a state-room. The subject selected, a mo- mentary consideration was involved as to the manner of treating it. A geographic, historic, and descriptive account of the various localities visited at first suggested itself, but the absence of either library or work of reference precluded its adoption, and at the hazard of the imputation of egotism, a narrative of personal adventures was concluded upon. Though fugitive selections may awaken a momentary inter- est, these sketches profess to impart nothing new, save the re- cital of recent occurrences, which may possibly be deemed of political worth ; the adventures are merely the experiences of a thousand others in this ocean, who, instead of publishing, retain them for an inexhaustible fund of future reminiscence. As an early schoolmate, Ik Marvel, has expressed it, " mine have been iv Preface. tossed from me in the shape of a book;" but in the endeavor to avoid prolixity, it is feared that points of incident and descrip- tion which so materially enhance the interest of a cursory narrative, have been too hastily dealt with. Unlike the Old World, Polynesia boasts of no monuments of antiquity : the ruins of Heidu and Marde are but the relics of a few generations that have passed away beyond that resting-point we look into obscurity. Though we discover no hieroglyphics of mystic import to conjure up gloomy reveries, we are ever opening a new page in the Book of Nature, fresh and glowing with the intelligible symbols of beauty and sub- limity. We are wont to associate with these miniature gardens the reveries of romance the brightest conceptions of poetic imagery ; but reflection will impress us with realities of deeper interest, and the ideal will be forgotten as we link the present to the shadowy future. For a moment, we revert to the period when islands rose from liquid depths, put forth their fifes, and hill and valley bloomed amid varied phenomena, unseen by other than the eye of their Creator. Again, we view them as in majesty and power they stand forth Nature's giant sarco- phagi of a slumbering element emeralds upon a field of blue, the home of millions basking in perennial sunshine, but covered with intellectual darkness. Centuries roll round ; science and enterprise hand in hand reveal but the relic of a once numerous race, for "the strong men have bowed themselves," and though religion has bestowed its precious boon, and benevolence and philanthropy have gratuitously scattered their gifts, they have failed to rescue a people hastening to oblivion. At no period of oar national existence have American in- terests been so prominently manifest in the great Western Preface. V Ocean. Laws, literature, and commerce are results of an en- terprise that has established States and successfully combated a national antipathy. The recent opening of Japanese ports is an additional evidence of our characteristic policy; without a cannon-shot to shatter the barrier of hereditary prejudice, a noble conquest has been peacefully achieved. Invidious com- parisons are not %ought they are unnecessary ; a candid observer who surveys the broad track of American enterprise in this ocean, will seek in vain for beacons of selfish cupidity or ambition. It will be discovered that our victories, whether spiritual or political, have been marked by intellectual growth and commercial prosperity ; to kingdoms and tribes we have bequeathed indelible impressions of our national worth and disinterested philanthropy. The present subject embraces but a small proportion of the island nebulas Oceanicse, though including the two most prom- inent groups of the Polynesian Archipelago. But little more than ten years ago, both were native principalities : to one has been accorded the fellowship of nations ; the other, the brightest gem of the Southern Ocean, after a protracted struggle for ex- istence, has bowed to a conqueror, and its hills and valleys are bristling with European cannon. The commerce of kingdoms and colonies combined in this ocean is trifling in comparison with our own, yet the powers of the Old World have greedily coveted and seized upon independent soil, independent by every principle of justice and equity, as if national greatness were to be promoted by hostile aggression, sanctioned by neither moral requirement nor commercial interests. The Eng- lish and French in the South Pacific, and the Dutch in the Indian Archipelago,, have appropriated most of the available vi Preface. lands or prominent groups ; and at the present rate of terri- torial absorption, an observer who surveys this broad field at the expiration of ten years, will discover but few evidences of original possession or primitive freedom. The incidents narrated are comprised by the years '48 and '53. The words "NA MOTU" signify in the Hav^iian and Tahitian dialects " The Islands" For various reasons, the present subject has been confined to those two groups alone, namely, the Hawaiian or Sandwich, Georgian and Society Islands. As a prefatory link, it has been ventured to introduce u The Whale Ship," but in doing so, the hackneyed routine of ship-duty has been studiously avoided, and a combination of nautical inci- dents, grave and humorous, has been substituted, to relieve the otherwise sombre shadows of the forecastle. It remains but to be said, that if in idle moments a persual of these sketches affords a moiety of the gratification experienced in writing them, their object will have been attained ; for to please, if not to instruct, will ever be the wish of THE AUTHOR NEW- YOKE, July, 1854. CONTENTS PART I. THE WHALE-SHIP. * CHAPTER I. Introduction Social Elements A Forecastle Our Superiors Familiar Sketches Personal Apology Professional Diagnosis A Prescription 17 CHAPTER II. An Industrious Community " Learning the Ropes" A Witty Skipper Scrub- brooms and their Uses System Mast-heads Evening Recreations 25 CHAPTER III. An Unwelcome Visitor Hope and Despair Consolation Death Sequel Farewell to Mortality Reflection 31 CHAPTER IV. Sunny Skies African Isles National Characteristics Supplies A Portuguese Trick A Village St. Jago An Accident Excursion Courtesy Adios.,35 CHAPTER V. All Aboard Dark Rumors Tragical Occurrence A Surprise Effect upon " Old John" Premonition of Rigid Discipline A Sea Lawyer Lodgings in the "Run." 41 CHAPTER VI. Our Vulcan Misplaced Confidence Results Inconstancy Steerage Bill A Dangerous Luxury Mr. Short an Artist Monotony 46 CHAPTER VII. Rio de la Plata Oily Anticipations The Planet Deserted Foraging Parties A Squall Perturbation of the Cooper Mr. Grasper's Misfortune Recourse to Surgery Eulogy Pastime 50 CHAPTER VIII. Professional Colloquy Mr. Grasper's Excitement Mr. Short's Humiliation Mr. Easy's Success Captain Buck a Champion 57 viii Contents. CHAPTER IX. A Gale Securing Prize Cutting Gear Perilous Situation of Mr. Easy Mr. Gurrie a Man of Feeling Almost a Tragedy Timidity of Donald and Jon- athan A Few Explanations 60 CHAPTER X. Official Congratulations Occupation of Messrs. Folger and Weasle Shakspeareian A Victim Domestic Employment Night Scenes Skulking between Decks A Denouement 66 CHAPTER XL Maladies A Hospital Delivery Dentistry Mr. Grasper a Practitioner His Prescription A Stag at Bay An Object of Commiseration 71 CHAPTER XII. Anticipation Mr. Gurrie's Resolution The Home of Selkirk Preparations A Document Parallels Drawn Responsibilities of Mr. Grasper A Consort Conspiracy 76 CHAPTER XIII. " Gamming" Courtesy Dancing Accident to " Chips" Professional Services in Demand A Rat-ification " Smoking Out" 80 CHAPTER XIV. Evening Tranquillity Bathing " Shark, !" Mr. Grasper's Melancholy Mr. Easy's Dexterity Thoughts upon Sharks Decorating the Planet A Storm In Port at Last . . 83 SEQUEL TO THE FOREGOING. Disposition of Characters Feat of O'Connor Capitulation of Steerage Bill and Weasle Adventure of " Old John" Flight to the Mountains Tender- hearted Women A Mistake Duplicity Value of Money The Planet on Fire Daring of a Sailor Messrs. Grasper and Short as Military Men Conclusion.., ..87 Contents. ix PAET II. HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, CHAPTER I. Lahaina Sights about Town Interested Hospitality Scanty Wardrobe " John" and his Wife Nalimu The Palace Kamehameha III 93 CHAPTER II. A Sailor Ashore Recognition A Tableau O'Connor's Yarn A Cosmop- olite 97 CHAPTER III. Forming an Acquaintances-Peculiarities An Editor's Sanctum Our Landlady and her Protege Explanations A Night Adventure Drinking Awa Conse- quences Five Years have Passed 100 CHAPTER IV. Reminiscences of the Planet Passage Secured The "Kammey" Under Way Scenery Native Epicures Devotions Preparations for Night Hawaiian Nobility 108 CHAPTER V. Mountains of Oahu The Landscape An " Island City" Described Private Dwellings Public Edifices Street Scenes Society Marketing Equestri- anship 112 CHAPTER VI. Places of Recreation Moral Evidences Appearance of Surrounding Country View from Punch-bowl Picturesque Valley of Nuuanu Romantic Scenery of the Pali 112 CHAPTER VII. " Hotel de France'' Peculiarities of the Hawaiian Dialect Native Architecture and Domestic Economy A Planter The " Kammey" again Departure Momokus Female Pilot " Red-earth" Landing 120 CHAPTER VIII. " Long Jim" and Steve Gossip The Premises Bullock-driving Propensities of Native Cattle A Model Plantation Boundless Prospect Economy. . .123 CHAPTER IX. <* Social Elements Our Nantucket Cooper His Domestic Afflictions A Polyne- sian Wife Connubial Felicity Startling Proposal Weddings and Feast The Proprietor A Ghost-seer 128 Contents. CHAPTER X. In the Saddle Ride through Kula Scenery at Makawao From Makawao to Wailuku A Golgotha Pleasant Village Attentions of a Chief Souve- nir of Gen. Harrison Waikapu Over the Mountains Incidents by the Way Lahaina 135 CHAPTER XI. A Stormy Channel Girls of Molokai Dissertation on Domestic Cookery Taste for Poi Acquired En route for the Mountains Our Quartermaster and Associates Lonely Ravines An Old Warrior A Relic of the Past Kelu- aaha Ultra Notions of Propriety , 139 CHAPTER XII. Sand-beach of Olualu A Desolate Village Desert Whirlwinds Sand-clouds The " House of the Sun" Salt-ponds Relics of Mortality Journey from Kalepolepo The " Old Plantation" 146 CHAPTER XIII. ILoiterings with Chain and Compass Groves of Kula Ascent through the Forest Interesting Locality Reconnoissance above the Clouds Journeying Sea- ward A Page of Inconveniences Burning Sandal-wood A Dissatisfied Konohiki Technicalities of Hawaiian Law 149 CHAPTER XIV. A Gale Bob, the Storekeeper Effects of the Storm The Wreck Cause of the Cooper's Obligation A Reconnoitering Party Salvage and General Average A Loving Wife Moonlight Sail Kahulawe Evening Ramble Native Superstition 156 CHAPTER XV. Wrecking Natural Dormitory Preparations for the Morrow A Stroll Across the Hills Pastoral Diversion A Desolate Island Deceitful Shrubbery Stores Exhausted Gathering Shell fish upon the Reefs A " Genius of * Famine" Relief Beacon of Fire Embarkation Storm Perils of Reef- Roving Female Delicacy 161 CHAPTER XVI. A Holiday Ramble Hunting Party Pigeon-roost Cheerless Aspect of the Landscape The Cavern Torchlight Economical Apparatus Profound Darkness Over the Hills Beating Kapa Ruined Hcidu Interesting to Sportsmen Ancient Wells Mountain Dew Submarine Grot Farewell to Ulupalakua 168 CHAPTER XVII. A Landscape The Town Tragic Scene in Hawaiian History Assassination of a King An Acquaintance Discovered Courting by Proxy A Native Belle Officious Duennas Female Discretion Departure 175 CHAPTER XVIII. Courting Sterile Aspect of the Shore Imposing Spectacle Cruising at Ran- dom A Valet de Ckambre Recognized Town of Kailue Extinct Volcano Fruit-bearing Groves Lava Caverns Scarcity of Fresh Water In Search of a Village 180 Contents. xi CHAPTER XIX. Kealakekua Bay, where Cook Fell Tradition Repositories of the Dead Courtesy of a Native Judge Ride over Chaos A Classic Locality Battle Death of a Chief, and Female Devotion Keauho Relic of Kamehameha the Great" The Blind leading the Blind" Tumulus of Cook Village of Kawa- .16a Midnight Epicures" The Last of Earth" 184 CHAPTER XX. An Iron-bound Shore Native Mermaids A Natural Ornament Procuring Cargo Stroll up the Mountain Charming Scenery One of the Ancient Regime Pertaining to Psychology Ludicrous Incident Singing School Native Chorister The Meeting 190 CHAPTER XXI. Heathen Relics Affection for the Dead Transmigration of Souls An Unsym- pathizing Relative A Monomaniac Surf-riding Heavy Breakers A Pair of Guardians Experiences Native Economy Departure for Lahaina. . .194 CHAPTER XXII. The " Twin Giants" Beauty and Sublimity The Paradise of Hawaii Hilo Bay Natural Productions Beautiful Homestead Missionary Residence Pleas- ure Grounds Streams The Rainbow Fall " Maid of the Mist" Bathing Juvenile Recreations Volcanic Eruption Sky at Midnight 198 CHAPTER XXIII. Quadrupeds and Bipeds The Journey Natural Scenery Roads The Goddess Pele Half-way House Attractions of the Cuisine Shampooing " Tales of my Landlord" Value of Pork Our Dormitory A Guide Volcanic Eviden- ces An Impressive Sight " Circumnavigating" a Crater The Stygean Lake Natural Distillery and Oven Sulphur Banks Chasms 203 CHAPTER XXIV. Night A Fabled Divinity Legend of Kamapua, the Centaur of Hawaii Descent into the Crater Inscriptions Appearance of Lava Recent Eruption The Lake of Fire Thoughts in a Volcano Startling Phenomena Burning Cone Gathering Specimens Bottomless Pits Native Superstition Dimensions of the Crater Mountain Heaths Grouse Mauna L6a and Maunakea Desolate Regions Mount Hualalai Waimea Fertile and Sterile Districts The Re- turn Visitors at the Half-way House Book of Autographs Reach Hilo Farewell to Hawaii ..211 xii Contents. PAKT III. GEORGIAN AND SOCIETY ISLANDS, CHAPTER I. Baffling Winds The " Eliza Mary" Associates Merton and Capt. Ben Man- gaia Natives Huahine " The Distant Sky" Beautiful Panorama Across the Lagoon Native Antipathy towards French Bunting First Impressions How the Foreigners live in Raiatea A Reminiscence of Rebellion 223 CHAPTER II. A House Built Inclosures A Rebel Chieftain The Natives Costume Pere- grinations " The Pig that runs on the Ground" " Sandwich Island Johnny" Breakfast A B^evy of BeautiesCrustaceaChurch and School-house Prep- arations for Housekeeping 227 CHAPTER III. The Premises Evening Entertainment Vocal Melody Manner of Obtaining Fire A Primitive Lamp Visitors Mechanical Skill of Jasper and Howard Our Parlor Items of Domestic Economy Merton's Report Bob as Quarter- master Noble Condescension A Dernier Resort 232 CHAPTER IV. French Policy Results of Conquest King Tamatoa Cause of Political Dis- cord An Arbitrary Regent The Chief Tamare Standard of Rebellion Raised A Battle Bravery of the King Defeat and Flight Fugitives Pre- served by French Interference Provisional Government Established An Old Roman Royal Duplicity Results of War 237 CHAPTER V. Disappointment Division in the Family Merton's Adventure The Stranger Acquaintances Introduced An Eccentric Judge Citizens of Raiatea Illness, and Manifestations of Sympathy Tamare's Daughter Defects of our Model System Merton Circumnavigates the Island Howard's Excursion to Op6a . 242 CHAPTER VI. A Tempest Gloomy Prospect The Canoe Beauties of the Lagoon Varieties of Coral Theories respecting their Formation and Growth Reef Coral Lithophytic Plants Remarkable Specimen We Reach the Motu Formation of Islets A Royal Asylum Luxury Amid Solitude A Labyrinth The Great Barren Re,ef Beauty and Majesty Howard Obtains a Prize Dr. Doan's Promise 247 CHAPTER VII. Tranquillity Obsolete Fashions The Church and Congregation A Juvenile Propensity Devotion Missionaries System Pursued Absence of Intellect- ual Progress among the Natives Astronomical Error Respect for the Sab- bath Establishment of the Mission Conversion of King Pomare in 1812 Comparison Instituted Social Benefits Conferred Idolatry and Mythology .253 CHAPTER VIII. Teo's Sail-Boat Scenery by the Way A Dowrv Preservation of Bread-fruit Contents. xiii Bathing Cocoanuts Leave Havila Vanity, a Female Quality A Beautiful Bay Te6's Villa Royal Hospitality . 256 CHAPTER IX. Opoa The Sacred Grove A Gloomy Forest Heathen Relics Tumulus Solemn Shades Oro, the Insatiate God Manner of Procuring Victims A Human Sacrifice Affecting Scene .261 CHAPTER X. The Oha Tree Rendezvous for High-born Lovers Teo an Agriculturist " Tally, Ho !" Adieu to Royalty Coral Gathering Rambles Barefooted The Forest Lethean Stream Deatfoilike Solitude Canoe Sailing Ruined Plantation A Lonely Valley Return Embarkation Rafting Working Pas- sage 265 CHAPTER XI. The Assemblage Doctor Doan Extemporaneous Eloquence Merton on Poli- tics The Doctor's Sentiments upon the same Subject A New Phase Jasper's Song Merton's Poem Doctor Doan's Critique Merton's Impromptu Adjournment 271 CHAPTER XII. Hasty Departure Contemplated Voyage The Falcon Our Consort Coral Fields Borabora, Extent and Appearance Romantic Scenery A South Sea Warrior Nautical Manoeuvres The Brass Swivel 279 CHAPTER XIII. Morning in Polynesia The Regent Mateha Public Grounds and Edifices Old Pensioners Bread-fruit Settlement and Scenery Mountain Streams An Incident The Home of a Missionary 283 CHAPTER XIV. Troublesome Interlopers A Renegade Chieftain Canoe Excursion Accident A Solitary Island Propagation of Palm Groves Value Native Indolence Relic of the French War Inexcusable Carelessness Poisonous Fish Native Pharmacy 289 CHAPTER XV. TAHITI. Peak of Orohena Moorea First Impressions Town of Papeete Described French Improvements Market Hotels Chief Attraction 293 CHAPTER XVI. A Cottage "Broom Road Gang" Loitering Pearl Fishery Suburban Views French Injustice Mutois Road to Fataoa Matavai and Point Venus Reminiscence of Hawaii 298 CHAPTER XVII. Mountain Lake Scenes and Scenery by the Way Matrimonial Differences "The Slough of Despond" The Broom Road Aowa Village of Papara Merry Damsels Equestrian Indulgence Reach Aurofa Apo's Family Quizzing Propensity of the Daughters Household Economy 302 CHAPTER XVIII. Departure Robinson Crusoe Cottage Civility of a Resident Guide Selected Preparations for Visiting the Lake Forest and Valley Fatiguing Path An Expedient Ailima's Dog Mountain Ascent Scenery The Lake Capt. Beechy's Observations Encampment 307 xiv Contents. CHAPTER XIX. Return to Papeuriri A Vagrant's Soliloquy Contemplated Project for Enforcing Industry Forcing Results Native Resources Papeete Pomare-tane, the Royal Consort Amusing Incidents A Courtier Hawaiian and Tahitian No- bility Compared Anecdote Illustrative of French Justice The " Monumental City" 313 CHAPTER XX. Crew and Passengers Described Leave Tahiti Storm Submarine Cell Inconveniences Reach Eimeo Midnight Search for Lodgings An Interest- ing Companion Adventures in a Church A Hypocrite Freak of Nature Tradition of Oro and the Little God Tii 318 CHAPTER XXI. The Carpenter's Premises A Convivial Party The Carpenter's Apology Comments by a Guest " The Girl I Left Behind Me" Reminiscences of Omoo Long Ghost and the Object of his Solicitude Tragical Fate of Mrs. Bell The Lake Forest of Pandanus Trees Primitive Solitude Our Major-Domo An Extortion 321 CHAPTER XXII. All Aboard Rain-Storm A WildernessIn Search of Shelter Wigwams The Paumotu Girl Fruitless Search Camping Out Discover a Village Break- fast Civility A Bridge Described Juvenile Recreation Singing School Sunday At Sea Deplorable Condition of our Larder Maiau An Inhospita- ble Island Incidents of passing to Raiatea 325 CHAPTER XXIII. Arrival of British Consul Tenants of Eelspring A Legend Visit to the Cavern Mountain Scenery Tints of the Lagoon A Remarkable Flower The Cavern Descent Unpleasant Situation Escape A Feast Ill-timed Politeness Delicate Sensibility 332 CHAPTER XXIV. A British Sailor Warlike Evidences Premeditated Naval Conflict Dr. Doan a Commander A British Consul between two Fires Scenes in the Camp of Tamare Indiscretion of Mrs. Lassiter Espionage Warriors of Tahaa An Armistice Officiousness Inherent in Females Teo's Preparations for a Siege A New-Yorker Kindness of Tamare's Wife 849 CHAPTER XXV. A Foster Mother Arrival at Borabora Visit to the Fdle Franc Social Habits of Hawaiians and Tahitians Reminiscence of Louis Quatorze Lodgings with Tane Landlord Described Attempt at Suicide Mrs. Tane Her Daughters, Married and Unmarried An Aspiring Son-in-Law Matea's Toilet Improvisa- trices Household Furniture Domestic Cookery and Cutlery Tane as a Commercial Agent His Eccentricity 344 CHAPTER XXVI. A.n Arrival Captain Harry Commercial Transactions Necessity for Diplomatic Relations Chancery Suits Tane's Account Current The " Commercial Agent" Inconsolable A Dangerous Resort " Three Sheets in the Wind" An Interesting Colloquy A Drunken Struggle Tane's Farewell Loss of Favor.. ..361 Contents. xv CHAPTER XXVII. Excursion Scenery of the Valley The Doctor Purchases a Cargo Fruits The Paumotu Girl Wrapping Oranges Propensity to Gossip Indulgence of Floral Ornaments prohibited by Missionaries 357 CHAPTER XXVIII. A Word Concerning Missions Success of Missionary Labors Characteristics of Native Converts Depopulation not attributable to Missions Social Con- dition of Missionaries in Polynesia Unpleasantness of Drawing Distinctions A Comparison Instituted Missionary Statistics Comparative Progress of Protestant and Roman Catholic Missions Conclusion 361 APPENDIX I. A GLANCE AT THE PRESENT CONDITION OF POLYNESIA. The five grand Divisions of Oceanica Great Polynesian Triangle Classification of Groups Structure Easter Island Climate and Diseases of First-Class Islands Second-Class Islands Third-Class or Coral Islands Commerce of the Low Islands Savage Islands Natural Productions of First-Class Groups Introduction of Domestic Animals Population of Polynesia The Natives Physical Appearance and Intellectual Capacity Their Language Hawaiian Dialect Poetry Government and Social Condition of the Hawaiian Islands : Georgian and Society ; Paumotu ; Marquesas ; Samoan ; Tonga ; Hervey ; and Austral Islands Natural and Agricultural Resources of Polynesia San- dal-wood Future Tillers of the Soil Honolulu, Papeete, and Apia, as Depots for Pacific Steam Navigation. . . . .373 APPENDIX II. THE ISLAND KINGDOM OF THE NORTH PACIFIC. Territorial Extent Comparison with Cuba instituted Natural Conformation' Soil and Productions Climate and attendant Phenomena Chief Towns Inter-Communication Steam Navigation Statistics for 1853 National Leg- islature Imports Exports Revenue, &c Whale Fishery Department of Interior Public Instruction Finance Foreign Relations Census Agri- culture Value of Staple Commodities Sugar Planting Retrospective View of Statistics Annexation Considered Comparison of Results Capability of Hawaiians American Politics and Interests Predominant Prospective Na- tional Decrease Policy of European Nations The Independence or Posses- sion of these Islands Important to the United States Conclusion 399 xvi Contents. APPENDIX III. THE FRENCH IN THE PACIFIC. Political Boundaries of the Pacific Area Retrospective Glance at French Policy Events of 1841 and 1842 Possessions of French Defined Occupation of Marquesas Islands by Du Petit Thouars Sentiments of Louis Philippe and M. Guizot Conquest of Tahiti Causes for National Interference Naval and Land Forces Policy of the Protectorate Port and Police Regulations Unjust Exactions Permit of Residence Hostility towards the English Mission Official Proclamation Moral Retrogression of Natives Protectorate favorably considered Commodore Wilkes on the Resources of this Group Pesent Con- dition and Exports Comparison with Mauritius Anticipated Difficulties at Tongatabu Seizure of New Caledonia Position of the Navigator Islands Superficial Comparison of French and English Colonies 419 APPENDIX IV. AMERICAN WHALING INTERESTS IN THE PACIFIC. Prominent Features of Whaling Cruising-Grounds of Sperm Whalers ; of Right Whalers Traffic and Exchange Estimated Capital Employed Our present Fleet compared with that of 1844 ; with that of Europe Imports of 1844 ; of 1853 Increased Value of ProductsRelation to our Merchant Marine Ports fre- quented Petty Exactions Micronesian Ports Honolulu Seamen, their Con- dition and Wants ; Relations to Consuls Foreigners as Commercial Agents ; Ludicrous Incident Our Consular System Conclusive Glance at the Pro- fession . . 447 THE WHALE-SHIP. CHAPTER I. WE SHAPE OUR COURSE. To an observer from the shore, there is something imposing in the sight of a noble ship, with her masts looming loftily, and her taper spars standing forth in graceful relief against the clear sky, while a cloud of snowy canvas, like extended wings, is urging her onward through the liquid element. If perchance a jet of flame leaps from her dark side, and a booming sound like distant thunder comes echoing across the water and reverberating among the hills, emotions of sublimity are awakened. But there is something inde- scribably ludicrous in the appearance of 'eighteen or twenty recruits lumbering the deck of a whaler, some of them leaning languidly against the try-works, with their orbs rolled deprecatingly up, and others grouped about the windlass in accidental postures of despair. Without venturing upon undue familiarity, let me beg courteous readers to accompany me for a brief interval to my floating home, suggesting, however, to such as are ultra-fastidious, to wrap their garments carefully about them to avoid contamination. No gilded saloons nor decorated panels meet the eye ; but there is a matter-of- fact appearance about everything that seems to imply, we have done with the frivolities, and now for the realities of life. I believe it will be mutually agreeable when I refrain from a disquisition on " dog watches" and " seven bells ;" for ropes and marlinspikes have become stale, and meditations over tar buckets grown insipid. 2 18 . Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. Forecastles, like friendships, improve on acquaintance ; and though diversified with the odds and ends of humanity, a careful study of the emotions, and passions that have been hatched and brooded within their narrow precincts would afford no ignoble theme for the pages of philosophy. They are frequently the last jumping-off place for renegade pettifoggers and professional gentle- men of other denominations, whose fortunes have become desperate, and who exchange their ventilated insignia for duck trowsers and guernsey frocks. Here they abandon theories for realities, forsak- ing the comforts for the hardships of life ; and if they be of medi- tative turn, they hamper themselves with the brighter incidents of retrospection, having ample opportunity to reflect upon the conse- quences of their indiscretion. We were a motley assemblage of Americans, English, Irish, .Scotch, French, and Portuguese ; besides, we could boast of every shade of complexion, from the fair Saxon to the sable African ; and, as might be supposed, there was a diversity of disposition among .us, the consequence of personal habit or national characteristic. The blunt frankness of Bull and Jonathan was in striking contrast .to the intriguing disposition of the swarthy Portuguese, while the volubility of the Hibernian harmonized with the enthusiasm of the merry Gaul. But there were never those feelings of odd-fellowship among us which usually characterize the crew of a merchantman : some feud existed, some score to be wiped out, precluding all pos- sibility of a permanent reconciliation between the adverse parties, although a general treaty was sometimes agreed upon. Above every consideration, an hereditary warfare was perpetually waged against the greenhorns. Without attempting an essay upon sleep, I conceive that fancy may invest the imagination with as pleasing imagery, though its pos- sessor be inclosed between rough boards and immersed in the coarse fabric of Leeds, as it could do though surrounded by gorgeous tapes- try and luxuriating amid the fine linen of Egypt. Nevertheless, it was a bone of contention to see who should secure the lower bunks, for the obvious reason that in warm weather, when the decks were washed down, a number of briny streams might be seen filtering through the oakum into the upper tier. A Company Described. 19 The " Planet's" forecastle had perhaps nothing to distinguish it from similar sub-residences. I descended the rough ladder with the feelings of a novice who for the first time ventures into the shaft of a coal-mine. Its form Avas of course triangular, and its sides lined with parallel rows of narrow bunks, some of which made a flaunting display of calico curtains, being otherwise decorated with amorous lithographic designs, while others made a modest display of the coarse blankets from the slop-chest. From some of them, diminutive shelves jutted out, for the purpose of securing a lamp when the occupant was disposed to devote a few moments of his watch below to reading. The floor was covered with chests of every description, from the old family trunk, bestowed by the dot- ing mamma upon her adventurous boy, to the capacious receptacle of the professional Jack. Rarely, if ever, is a forecastle silent, except during the night watches : yarns are spun and reeled, and loved ditties sung, chiefly on the chromatic scale ; some play fox and geese, or " old sledge," if the moral scruples of the skipper will permit. You will occa- sionally hear the unavailing regrets of some home-sick " verdant," who is continually tantalizing himself with visions of domestic bliss, hoping to elicit a sypmpathizing word from the older seamen, but which usually result in the protrusion of sundry heads from the blankets, accompanied by unmistakable growls and demonstrations, invariably producing the effect intended. As regards dining utensils, it was sheath-knives and tin-pans versus silver forks and porcelain. Though the iron hoops of the pine coffee-bucket had grown rusty, and the interior of the vessel become saturated and discolored with a suspicious debris, yet it would have been a fastidious stomach that would not have yearned for its con- tents on a frosty morning when Weasle came staggering forward with it, almost enveloped in a cloud of savory steam. With becoming reverence, I turn my attention to the quarter-deck, to look upon those who have so often reminded us that the Planet was to be our home for the next four years, and that we had " signed articles to do our duty by day and by night." Captain Peter Smith Buck was a man of medium height, broad-shouldered, having a well- knit frame ; yet there was nothing classical in his proportions, for 20 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. they tended rather to corpulency than otherwise. He was an able, weather-beaten seaman, possessing at times generous impulses ; but on ordinary occasions his feelings were as callous as his features. But how shall I attempt to describe Mr. Grasper Mr. O. C. Grasper our first officer, that champion of the lance and short warp, who has so often carried death to great leviathan beneath a burning sun and amid icy seas ! He, too, in point of dimension, possessed extraordinary breadth of beam, that savored more of Bacchus than Apollo. His arm ! that brawny, muscular appendage, if incased in a leaden gauntlet, might have hurled terror into the arena of Olympia ; but, fortunately, its prowess was reserved for labors con- ducive to the wants of man. Between its flexors and inflexors a tacit understanding appeared to exist, so that digits and patronymic had a strong affinity for each other ; their incessant grasping pro- pensity obtained for them the appellation of " grappling irons," and woe to the victim who felt their embrace ! That tall man issuing orders respecting the waist-boat, and clothed with blue trowsers and shirt, subscribes himself to a ship's articles as Hezekiah Gurrie, Jr. He is our second officer, a good seaman, and an industrious man. There are certain quadrupeds that inti- mate their disposition by a premonitory growl. Mr. Gurrie resem- bled one of these ; and although he always turned an evil eye upon me, I will frankly award him the praise his due, for it was what he considered an infringement of his rights and duties as an able seaman, by Captain Buck, that led to the rupture which subsequently occurred. Mr. Short, our third officer, was in every respect of inferior cal- ibre. Should this ever meet his eye, I hope he will remember that hypocrisy is an ungrateful return for favors bestowed. He was a hardy, weather-beaten sailor, and always at his post in case of emergency. Mr. Easy, our fourth officer, was a young man, expert in his pro- fession, and usually prompt in the performance of his duty. In his intercourse with his inferiors, I do not think he was ever guilty of personal violence ; and I am happy to add that with him I have passed many a pleasant hour. Next in grade comes the steerage, a kind of stepping-stone for A Genuine Down-Easter. 21 Jack in the way of promotion : here lived the cooper, boat-steerers, and carpenter. Gouty old cooper ! How much I owe you for your kindness ! Perhaps you consider the debt cancelled in a measure by the soothing remedies I have so often applied to your rheumatic shoulders, not forgetting instances of warm decoctions and " soft tack 7 ' prepared by special request. If the top-gallantmast required slushing, or the dead-eyes needed scraping, the cooper always wanted some one about that time to hold on to his staves, or help him make bungs ; and no one w r as " half so handy at it as the Doctor." Thus I was spared the annoyance of many a disagreeable job, w r hile on such occasions he would entertain me with famous long yarns about the " heathen savages of the Feejees," with heads as large as half-bushels, and yellow eyeballs. Our boat-steerers were, every one of them, good fellows, with ready hands, and, I hope, honest hearts ; one of them, " Old John," as we used to call him, was a most inveterate growl. Many were his sarcastic allusions to the old " gurry bdX," which on ordinary occasions was " too much by the head," and otherwise " out of ballast trim." A want of precision in trimming the yards, and the necessity of making or reducing sail, afforded him favorite themes for censure ; and as his views on these points never coincided with those of the officer of the v atch, he was condescending enough to attribute the oversights or deficiency to that gentleman's error in judgment. But John had one treasure which he prized above all others, and that was an old Epitome, published, I imagine, when the science of navigation was in embyro. This was the oracle he invariably consulted when the topic in dispute happened to be nautical : with reference to latitude and longitude, any discrepancies that might exist between the observations of Cook, Wilkes, or the Spanish navigator, whose motto was, " Primus me circumdedit," John would happily adjust by reference to his medium. It would, perhaps, be inappropriate to particularize all my com- panions, but I will endeavor to present brief delineations of char- acter, as occasion may require. I made a companion of a fellow named Josh, a down-east Yankee, whose straight flaxen hair hung like thatch around his ruddy cheeks, who had some nautical ex- perience, and was not to be intimidated by anything like bombast. 22 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. Josh had a sweetheart at home, and he showed me a parting souvenir she had bestowed a lock of hair. Another individual, named Folger, who occupied the bunk above me, came from some- where in Ohio. When I first met him at the rendezvous, he sported what had once been a white linen shirt-collar, and a drap d'ete, " shad-belly," and was commenting somewhat freely upon the con- templated arrangements. From various expressions, I inferred that he was drawing a marked line of distinction between himself and those around him. I subsequently learned something of this gentleman's history : he was once a Democrat, but for three years had been a staunch Whig, and, I trust, a valuable acquisition to his party ; he had several times been an assistant delegate to some of our great Conventions, and on one occasion he condescended to accept the proffered hand of his political foe, Martin Van Buren. I had my fears at first lest his radical views might prompt him to set on foot some plot to overturn the established dynasty, and insti- tute a sort of Marine Provisional Government ; but whatever might have been his prospective arrangements, his embryo aspirations forever vanished after the first night in the Gulf Stream. Among our number was one we called Weasle, a tall, slim fel- low, with a hatchet face, who had never before seen salt water. Being somewhat whimsical, he had forsaken his domestic vocations in the backwoods, and strolling through South Street, was picked up by some of the sharks, who persuaded him to ship on the Planet, alleging that the sea air was bracing to weak nerves. There are some who, fashion them as you will, can never be modelled into sailors ; there is something about the " cut of their jibs" that in the eye of an old salt marks them as landsmen abroad. W r easle was one of these, and during the six months he was with us he acquired nothing pertaining to seamanship but what he was absolutely compelled to ; however, he had some redeeming traits, for as soon as his tribute to Neptune had ceased, he fell nat- urally into the routine of drudgery that had to be performed about the ship. W T hether the vocation of tending swine revived pleasing reminiscences or not, he was faithful in the performance of that duty ; and it was pleasant to observe the sympathy for each other that sprung up between guardian and brute. \Veasle, in his Personal Apology. 23 striped guernsey frock, could hardly cross the deck, in proximity to his proteges, without a grunt of recognition, and I believe the hap- piest moments he passed were those devoted to feeding them. Although no sailor, he was spared the jeers of his shipmates, for the duties instinctively performed by him spared them the neces- sity of many a disagreeable job. I wish I could add as much in behalf of the officers ; but it was an evil moment when Mr. Grasper conceived his first impressions of him, for I have seen him seize the unfortunate Weasle by the nape of the neck, and spin him ( around like a top. All these humiliations and indignities were meekly borne ; he held on the tenor of his way, patiently tending his swine, who looked upon him as an emblem of peace and love. Before closing this chapter I will modestly venture a bit of egotism ; though, with reference to introducing myself to the reader in the poetic apparel of duck trowsers and hickory shirt, I would merely observe, that it is pleasanter to contemplate results than to investigate causes : what I wish to explain is, how I ac- quired the title of Doctor. I had taken the precaution to provide myself with a few medicines, and was indebted to the kindness of a professional gentleman for a couple of old forceps and a case of " dressing instruments," and who at the same time hinted " I might as well get my hand in." Though possessing a venerable edition of Wood and Bache, besides retaining a few recollections of cliniques, I would have blushed to rank myself among professed disciples of Hippocrates. Nevertheless, the evidences I possessed were sufficient to entitle me M. D. of the ship's company, and hav- ing grown wise by experience, my humble advice to all young- gentlemen of the profession, who do not live in the cabin with rec- ognized privileges, and whose propensities may tempt them to a more intimate acquaintance with the cetacean branch of compara- tive anatomy, or perhaps mammalia in general, is to conceal every indication of their craft, and to look indignant at the smell of drugs. In support of it, let me cite one or two instances of the annoyances to which I was frequently subjected. Perhaps I am seizing a " Scotchman" on to the main swifter, and am just engaged in the most interesting portion of it, when I hear a prolonged cry of " Doc-t-o-r," issuing from the forecastle like the smothered cry of 24 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. a victim in a subterranean dungeon. " Wanted down below there," echo several of the watch on deck. On such occasions, if I had an irksome job, I suited my convenience, and when I saw my patient, my diagnosis was usually brief. If an ordinary case, and it happened to occur on "duff day," I at once affirmed that he had been overloading his stomach with that approximation to pastry, and I was always supported in my opinion by some half dozen voices issuing from the blankets. One would " swear that he had seen him eat three quarts of bean soup for dinner ;" while another composedly declared that he " had stolen his ' soft tack' from the galley while he was standing mast-head." Half a dozen other charges would be preferred against the victim, while I pre- scribed, which would generally be Epsom salts and warm water, watching carHilly meanwhile my patient's countenance as the surest symptom on which to base a subsequent diagnosis. One would hardly credit it, but during the cold weather, off Cape Horn, I have known a confirmed phthisis in Folger, together with gene- ral debility, to relapse into a severe headache and soon-get-better feeling, which miraculous change I would fain attribute to my prescription, approved by Mr. Grasper ; and that was a pint of warm salts and water, three times a day, and after the first day, if no relief was experienced, a black bolus, and a plaster of Spanish flies to the pit of the stomach. On these occasions Folger would give me a beseeching look. Sometimes, on taking my position at mast-head, I would lean com- fortably upon the royal yard, and instead of looking out ..for either "blows" or "flukes," would peer down from my eyrie to watch the* mainfold evolutions on deck. While listening to those sounds that afford an inspiriting theme for statesmen, the noise of the cooper, the ringing of the anvil, and the carpenter's hammer, and indulging a pleasing revery on the comparative qualities of lions and eagles, some one roars out, " Old Bill's dying with the colic !" " On deck, there ! Hang Old Bill and his colic !" " Descend from that crow's nest, you leech, and administer to the wants of suffering humanity," shouts Mr. Grasper from the quarter-deck. Daily Occupations on Board a Whaler. Of course I had but one alternative, and while complying with the requirement, I have thought that had humanity ever been pro- perly classified, I should have been puzzled to assign to " Old Bill" his appropriate genus. CHAPTER II. ELUCIDATIONS OF THE PRECEDING, HAVING REFERENCE TO NAUTICAL ECONOMY. THE daily routine of a whaler is vastly different from that of a merchantman. In connection with the duties of tj^ latter, there is always an amount of necessary work on hand which serves as a basis for extra labor, if such be the wish of the officer in com- mand. After six months' experience, I cannot particularize every odd job, but this I recollect most distinctly, that the old forge sent forth its blasts as regularly as that of a village blacksmith ; while the cooper had exhausted all his spare material before doubling Cape Horn. I have seen the carpenter throw his cap 'on deck, and his hammer into the lee scuppers, while he poured forth a volley of abuse upon every one who burnt oil. The boat-steerers, too ; it seemed that they would never rig their boats to suit themselves ; and during the intervals of that occupation they sharpened their irons (harpoons) and lances, whose number constituted a formidable display of projectiles. Between boat-steerers and artificers in wood and iron, the grindstone was made to perform incessant rev- olutions. The foremost hands had their duties to accomplish, and I would have risked the rigging of the Planet in competition Avith that of any other whaler that floated. She was, as Chips facetiously remarked, " a floating workshop ;" and I have since learned that our duties were not so much from necessity as from the skipper's solicitude for our health, he having satisfied himself by long ex- perience that incessant labor was, like Irish potatoes, an excellent antiscorbutic. The most serious obstacle the recruits had to encounter was 26 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. "learning the ropes." Some of us, realizing that it must be done, applied ourselves to the task until we had mastered it ; but there were a few laggards for whom the rest of us bore no sympathy, and I would be the last to censure an officer for striking manifesta- tions of his displeasure towards a soger, particularly if he is green. Mr. Folger, I regret to say, was dilatory in his acquirements, and this, together with other circumstances, resulted in his becoming one of the butts of the company. Two weeks passed by, and, with others, he was still as ignorant of the names of some of the most important ropes as the day he came on board ; it therefore became necessary that some decisive course should be pursued to bring the laggards to a sense of their duty. Accordingly, three or four of them were called aft, where they were informed by the captain that if in three days they were not perfectly familiar with the " running rigging," they should be deprived of their watch below until they were. At the expiration of the appointed time the cul- prits were summoned to the main hatch, where the examination took place, which was as interesting as that of a boarding-school, although no premiums were to be awarded. The captain com- menced : " Folger. I want you to show me the main-topsail sheets." Folger thought a moment, then went to the mainmast and laid his hand upon them. " Very good, sir. Well, now I want you to tell me where I can find the fore-spencer vangs." This was a poser ; he looked aloft despairingly at the net-work of black and white ropes, then most inquiringly at the crew, but he was rewarded by no answering hint ; for though some of us pitied him, the lynx-eye of Mr. Grasper, who enjoyed his perplexity, was watching every movement. With desperate resolve, he went for- ward, and laid his hand at random upon the top-gallant bunt-line. " There, sir, that'll do for you. Cook ! the next time you make duff, I want you to tie that man's share on to the fore-spencer vangs. Go forward, sir, and don't you dare to go below until you've learned what I told you ; it's nothing but sheer stupidity. I'm afraid I shall have to give you some practical lessons, young man, before the voyage is up. Who have we got next ? What's that Trainins a Greenhorn. 27 man's name there leaning aginst the try-works, with his hands in gaskets ?" " That ? Why that's Weasle," said Mr. Grasper : " he's always got one eye clewed up and the other sheeted home." " Come up here, Weasle ; hold up your head like a man, and take your hands out of your pockets ; I aint going to strike you, I only want to see whether you've learned the lesson I gave you ; I want every man to do his duty, and all share alike." Weasle, who supposed he was about to confront some sea mon- ster, was taken rather aback at the captain's friendly address, al- though he did not entirely recover his self-possession. " Show me the main-brace," said Captain Buck, wishing to en- courage him by mentioning one of the most conspicuous ropes. Weasle laid his hand upon it very promptly. " Show me the foretopsail haulyards." After a little study, this was found. " Now, Weasle, my boy, I want you to give a small pull on the larboard foretopsail brace, and haul taut the weather bowline." Weasle's head dropped as suddenly as if it had been perforated by a bullet, while his hands mechanically sought the before-men- tioned gaskets. " Come, sir, start !" He at once bolted off towards the starboard quarter. " Come back, here ; don't you know the difference yet between larboard and starboard ?" " Yes, sir," drawled Weasle : " starboard means the weather side, I guess." " The hell it does !" roared the captain. " You guess ! Well, / guess that starboard means right, and larboard means left ; now do you know ?" " Yes, sir." " Well, have you learned the difference yet between a duff-kid and a pot of lob-scouse '?" " I don't know, sir, but I guess I can." " You guess you can ! Well, how many arms do you guess you've got ?" " Two." 28 JReef-Rovings in the South Seas. " Which is the larboard one ?" Weasle deliberately poked out the right one. " O murder !" exclaimed the captain, whirling about, at the same time laughing contemptuously. " Was I ever so greenj No, I swear I wasn't. For heavens, Mr. Grasper, take charge of those sea-goats, and never let me get my hands upon them ; if I do, I shall seize them up to the mizzen rigging and give them a dozen every morning before breakfast." I once heard of a witty skipper who sailed from port with an un- usual complement of greenhorns, and encountering rough weather in the Gulf Stream, he was seriously embarrassed, owing to the ig- norance of his recruits, but which he obviated by a happy thought. A pack of cards was distributed among the rigging oftenest in re- quisition, and each card properly secured to a rope ; if a squall was approaching, and the officer of the watch thought it necessary to reduce a top-gallant-sail, he would call out ""Stand by there, boys, to let go your diamonds and haul away on the queen of hearts." Having touched upon the subject, it would perhaps be as well to mention a few items of daily routine, to avoid the necessity of any explanation hereafter ; but as this is not intended for a seaman's manual, I shall spare the reader the old story of " seven bells," and the manner of " splicing the main-brace." The crew were divided into two watches, the second officer heading the starboard, and the third officer the larboard watch, alternately relieving each other every four hours, except during the dog-watches, when it was all hands. The first summons to duty of the morning watch is, " draw water ;" and this being anything but a favorite pastime, espe- cially in cold weather, it frequently became a matter of dispute as to whose turn it was to rig and man the whip, and sometimes the discussion grew so animated that the interference of an officer was required. " Come, come, what argument's that going on ? If there's any dis- pute to be settled, there's where I live. Bill, you and Josh rig the whip, and be quick about it ; the rest of you fleet aft, and get your scrub-brooms." Such was the observation of Mr. Gurrie one morning, when Old A Lame Back Applying a Plaster. 29 Bill replied that " he'd rather be relieved, because he'd got a lame back, and the doctor was going to give him a plas " " 0, to the devil with your lame back, and the doctor, too ! If I don't see that whip rigged to the main swifter in just two minutes and a half, I'll prepare the way for a plaster with the bight of the first rope I can lay my hands on." The whip is a spar about twelve feet long, with a shive-hole at one end ; through this is rove a rope, one end secured to a large bucket, while the other is free for hoisting. The spar is then ele- vated a few feet above the bulwarks, and fastened to the main swifter, with one of the ends projecting a convenient distance over the water, and the other resting upon deck. If the bucket is small, the job of drawing is not very disagreeable; but ours was as large as a half barrel, and the weight, so disproportioned to purchase and power, rendered it one of the most impressive illustrations of the pulley I ever met with. Two men usually perform the duty, while one sits astride of the rail to receive the buckets. I can distinctly recollect remonstrating with the cooper at the time I saw him ham- mering away at the tub. " Can't help it," said he ; " must obey orders." Our scrub-brooms, too, are worthy of consideration. Manufactured by sheath-knives from pickled blocks of seasoned oak, they possessed about as much flexibility as could be expected, and their action upon the pine sheathing I can compare to nothing else than the probable effect of rubbing a stiff brush briskly over a bald head. Scrubbing finished, trowsers turned down, and mast-heads sta- tioned, we turned on to any job we were ordered to, until seven bells or breakfast-time. This was announced to us by the captain's say- ing, " Give 'em their breakfast, Mr. Grasper." " Aye, aye, sir. Give 'em their breakfasts, there, cook." " Aye, aye, sir. Breakfast for'a-r-d !" which is echoed by sev- eral hungry " aye, ayes ;" and if they did manifest any reluctance about manning the whip, their alacrity on this occasion was con- spicuous, for several volunteers would spring to their feet, express- ing a willingness to carry either the beef-kid or coffee-bucket. I shall not attempt to describe the thousand and one odd jobs, be- sides the regular work; we took our turns at mast-head, which 30 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. lasted two hours, also each his trick at the wheel. The difference between standing look-out at the main and foremast heads is this : the boat-steerers are the privileged characters in the first instance, and after reaching the topmast cross-trees, they have a " Jacob's ladder" by which they can ascend to the " crow's nest" direct, and in a cross sea they are less affected by the motion of the vessel than we of the fore, where at times we were compelled to give the royal-mast an affectionate embrace with both arms, and not urifre- quently I noticed the recurrence of nauseating symptoms to the consternation of all who delight in clean canvas. This post was only reached by " shinning" up the top-gallant stays, and our instruc- tions on these occasions were to " look sharp for blows, flukes, or white water," and he who first raised a whale from which we could secure a " blanket piece," should be rewarded with five pounds of " Mrs. G. B. Miller's fine cut," and a new pair of duck trowsers. Of course, with so brilliant a prize in perspective, we were a par- cel of ambitious competitors, and each ascended with the determina- tion of raising something, at least a breeze. Although the work, as a general rule, ceased after four o'clock, the mast-heads were continued until sunset, and during this interval we amused ourselves as best we could without encroaching on the rights of privilege. The decks having been swept down, and the tools re- moved from the carpenter's bench, we would assemble around to listen with respectful attention to the opinions of the boat-steerers as to the probable chances and result of the voyage. The possible contingency of a depreciation in the value of oil, was discussed with as much gravity as a falling off from the last quotation of stocks would be in a chamber of commerce. Some read, some danced, and others sung. I have seen our Vulcan, " a merry wight," from Canada, perched upon the night-heads and roaring away with might and main 'at an old French ballad. If the weather was fine, John would bring his Epitome on deck, which he would peruse most seriously, while some of the uninitiated looked upon him as a prod- igy a master navigator in disguise. O'Connor, a son of the Emerald Isle, and a fellow of fair acquirements, would occasionally give us the latest steps of the Polka, while, for want of an instrument, Chips and I whistled the Carlotta Grisi. An Unwelcome Visitor. 31 From this outline it must not be inferred that the harmony of so- cial intercourse continued uninterrupted. The enjoyment derived from an interchange of sentiment or favor among all classes might in most instances be traced to selfishness rather than to any feeling of personal regard. As wolves band together for mutual convenience, so our intercourse with each other was characterized by a smooth, deceptive surface, while an under-current of hidden meaning- whirled tumultuously beneath, and thus it continued until subse- quent events occurred to f obscure the horizon of our hopes by gathering clouds CHAPTER III. A GLIMPSE AT THE SPIRIT-LAND. " If there be a messenger with him, an interpreter, one among a thousand, to shew unto man his uprightness." THERE are moments in life when the wing of the destroying angel flits between us and the sunshine of existence, and beneath its dark shadow pleasures fade and hope withereth ; and when with hearts despairing we hear the last sigh, or watch the last throb of departing life, we feel that the silver cord which unites us to earth has been loosened and, with hope and fear " see through a glass darkly" into eternity. Again, when we witness the final struggle, we no longer tremble, but contemplate with mingled joy and sadness the transit of the soul to the spirit-land ; looking steadily up to a glittering edifice, spiritual or ideal, erected by faith in the zenith of human hopes. It was a Sabbath morning, and the sun shone with unclouded splendor upon the Atlantic, where the trade-winds blew freshly, curling many a wave into foam, as it dashed harmlessly against the dark hull of the Planet. The sounds of daily labor were hushed ; and save the sighing of the wind, and the monotonous plash of the waves, as we glided steadily on over the heaving ocean fitting sym- 32 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. bol of eternity all was still ; for the destroyer was there to thrust in his sickle while the harvest was yet ripe. It was the mysterious agent whose foot is upon the sea as well as upon the land ; who waves his dark wand over the fields of summer, causing them to glow for a moment with golden hues of autumn, only to perish be- neath the chill mantle of winter. Little Henry was a native of Raratonga, one of the Friendly Isles of the South Pacific. His delicate frame was not proof against the hardship and exposure incident to a voyage to the United States ; and the seeds of disease, that had already begun to germinate, re- ceived a genial impulse in the colder climate of the North : that unsparing emissary of death, pulmonary consumption, had already fastened itself upon the delicate boy. He had come on board with a faint hope of once more beholding his sea-girt home ; but that fragile form was destined for a final resting-place in the blue ocean, where, though storms sweep o'er its surface, he slumbers securely, deep in its still bosom. Day by day he ^continued to droop, until he could no longer sit upon deck to enjoy the bright sunshine, or watch the wild flight of the sea-bird ; and he Avas carried below to his state-room, never more to leave it in life. Whatever the ship could afford towards mitigating the sufferings of the dying boy was freely bestowed, and through the brief period of his illness, the captain and officers were unremitting in their attentions to him. I was almost constantly at his bedside ; and once, when nearly overcome by his emotion, he gave me to understand that he had a mother and sister who would await his return. I have seen him take from a small bag, which he usually kept near him, gifts of affection for his mother, a bunch of ribbons and beads for his sister, together with a few trifling presents for his friends, and after looking at them sor- rowfully, replace them again with a sigh, while the tears stole down his emaciated cheeks. But Henry had one source of consolation that lighted up the shadow of death, and that was his Bible and a few tracts printed in his native tongue ; when he was not reading, they were always near him. In them he found a soothing balm that enabled him to endure patiently his afflictions, discovering, as he drank deeply from the fountain of living waters, new sources of enjoyment, spiritual in Little Henry Death and Burial at Sea. 33 their nature. I verily believe that no death-bed was ever hallowed with brighter inspirations of Christian faith than was that of this poor boy. Hope was to him a beacon that grew brighter and brighter as he neared the goal of his aspirations, and he spoke with cheer- fulness of the hour when it should please his heavenly Father to relieve him from his sufferings. I have heard his feeble voice in prayer, and, although to me in an unknown tongue, have bowed my head with reverence, and so has the hardy sailor watching at his bedside ; for it was solemn, deeply solemn : it was the low con- verse of a spirit with its Creator. I would that the Christian and skeptic could have looked upon that bed of death : to the one, it would have been a bright example of faith ; to the other, a solemn warning. About eight o'clock, the steward informed me that Henry was dying. I was at his bedside in a moment, and beheld at a glance that the destroying angel was there. Though speechless, he was sensible of my approach. His Bible was by his side ; but he no longer needed its consolations, for he was already at the threshold of that house his faith had built. Death came not to him amid the groves of his native isle, where the drooping plumes of the palm rustle in the breeze like the whispered converse of spirits, and; where, amid the harmonies of nature, he. might breathe a last fare- well to weeping friends ; but in his narrow room, where the rays of light through the cabin window shone faintly upon the bulkhead,, and surrounded by hardy seamen, in whose feeling hearts his suf- fering touched a chord of sympathizing response. I sat beside him,, and, raising his attenuated arm, watched the last glimmering of life,, like a flame expiring in its socket, until, without a struggle or a groan, his soul returned to Him who gave it. The captain and mate were both deeply affected, more especially the former, and he alluded briefly to many little incidents connected 1 with Henry during his sojourn in his family. He had frequently known him to forsake his amusements and retire to his chamber to> pray. When informed by the physician that he could never again see his home, he wept bitterly, and begged so earnestly to be per- mitted to accompany the captain on his present voyage, that, for; humanity's sake, he could not refuse. 3 34 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. An hour having elapsed, preparations were made for the sequel. His hands were crossed arid fastened together with spunyarn ; " No useless coffin inclosed his breast," but we wrapped him in his blanket, and carried him on deck to the carpenter's bench, where the crew were requested to take a final look before he was launched into the deep. The body was then sewed up in the blankets, together with a quantity of ballast at the feet, and the whole securely lashed. The gangway was unshipped, and the body laid upon a plank in such a position that, when inclined, the feet should strike the water first. The captain and first and second officers stood just abaft the gangway, the cooper and boat-steerers near the mainmast, and the crew were assembled on the opposite side of the gangway. The third and fourth officers were stationed on either side of the body, and all was now ready for the final ceremony. " Haul back the mainyard !" was the order. This was silently obeyed, and gave to the ship a stately motion in the water. The captain, who was too much agitated to officiate, requested me to read a chapter in the Testament, there being no prayer-book on board. I selected such passages as I thought the most appropriate for the occasion, and read them o as to be dis- tinctly heard by all the crew, wishing, although with but little hope, that the words and the occasion might have a beneficial effect upon the feelings of some of my shipmates. I hoped they might awaken a few sober reflections that would tend to harmonize the elements of discord that to a certain extent opposed a barrier to our social intercourse. The service being ended, there was a moment of silence, and I do not believe there was an eye present unmoistened by a tear. " Let go there !" said the captain. The two officers shoved the plank a few feet beyond the gangway, quickly inclined it, and the body slid with a plunge into the water. " Brace forward the mainyard there, Mr. Grasper !" " Aye, aye, sir !" and as the ship once more resumed her course, I turned to catch a glimpse of a fading object that, deep in the blue element, was melting away like the faint trace of a cloud. African Isles. 35 Four years subsequent to this event, I sailed through the Hervey group by moonlight, and saw the beautiful isle of Raratonga rise like a dark knoll from the water. To me the circumstance was of pe- culiar interest, for with it I associated recollections of the little boy whose home was once here, and where perhaps at that moment an anxious mother was dreaming of an absent son. How often has she counted the breadfruit harvests, and scanned the dim horizon for the faint glimmering of a sail ! In vain has the sister woven garlands of flowers plucked from her native hills for her truant brother. But grieve not for him ; holier fingers have twined for him chaplets of amaranth, where, in brighter realms, he heeds not the storm that chants a requiem o'er the troubled ocean. CHAPTER IV. RUSTICATIONS AT THE CAPE DE VERDE S. I A WEEK passed by, and with favoring gales we were driven from the storms of a northern winter to the sunny South, where, a month after our departure, the barren peaks of St. Nicholas loomed in the horizon. I must pass hastily over any reference to the Cape de Verde Islands, for there are few features connected with them on which memory dwells with pleasure. Yet I envy not the dis- position that would look with indifference upon the conical peak of Fogo, conspicuous above the clouds, its sides furrowed by many a deep channel, where the fiery torrent has rolled down to do battle with the element that surges against its base. Although in most in- stances the scenery of these islands was cheerless enough, there were picturesque valleys, where the sea-loving cocoanut rustled in the breeze, and the golden orange, half hidden by the rich foliage, sent forth a grateful perfume. Here at times streams were leap- ing from crags and falling in cascades, where on either side rose the dark volcanic rocks, giving a sombre effect to the scene ; 36 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. and in fancy it would seem that in this green valley alone rustled the wide-spreading banana, while all beyond was solitude and deso- lation. The geographical position of these islands, lying as they do about four hundred miles west of Cape de Verde on the coast of Africa, renders them a favorite place of resort for outward-bound whalers, where, for sea-biscuit, prints, and domestic goods, they can purchase fresh supplies at reasonable rates. They are a dependency of Por- tugal, and, as might be supposed, far behind the age in intelligence and civilization. The forbidding appearance of the country may be adduced as a plea for its present condition ; a sterile soil, intense heat, continued droughts, and the rainy and attendant sickly season, are serious obstacles in the way of advancement. There is, how- ever, no lack of government officials, whose corrupt politeness, bor- dering on servility, but ill accords with the courtesies of refinement. In plain words, most of them are a parcel of importunate beggars, and in making the assertion, I am supported by the opinions of nearly all who have held intercourse with them. I will here men- tion a circumstance that occurred, as an illustration of this leading characteristic. Our captain had a fine Panama hat with a broad brim, an ad- mirable protection from the scorching rays of the sun, and no won- der it excited the cupidity of some of the official lazzaroni. It was at a Custom-House somewhere on the island of St. Nicholas that the collector became enamored with its fair proportions, and he begged to be permitted to try it on. He then very nicely adjusted his own chip-hat upon the head of Captain Buck, and called upon the attendant officers to witness the improvement the exchange had made on the person of the latter. Their opinions perfectly coin- cided with his own, but our skipper meanwhile had arrived at an opposite conclusion, and the chip-hat was returned with all the politeness he was master of, much to the chagrin of the swarthy Portuguese. This, however, did not check his perseverance ; there was a circuitous method of accomplishing an object that was not to be attained by direct means. In due season, the supplies began to come in ; stalwart negroes drove diminutive pigs before them with a string fastened to the leg, Trick on the Captain by an Obsequious Official. 37 (a custom practised in every portion of the globe where pork is a staple) ; coal-black negresses bearing baskets of oranges on their heads, and little urchins skipping down the pathway, half hidden by bunches of bananas. The purchases were made, and the captain's red calico made an ostentatious display, in the turban form, on the head of some portly wench, while old and young of both sexes were crunching voraciously at the bolash (bread). Preparations were now made for departure, and dispatches sent out for the stragglers, some of whom were discovered drinking aguadente in the guard-room with ragged soldiers, and others riding donkeys no bigger than a good- sized Newfoundland, much to the diversion of the natives. The moment being opportune, an official, wearing the royal livery with ventilated elbows, tipped his hat politely to our skipper, and begged the honor of escorting him once more to the Custom-House. He was there informed by the collector, in a most affable manner, that the systematic course adopted by the government of Portugal re- quired that an accurate " Outward Manifest" of all exports be made, to be submitted to the Bureau of Internal Commerce for statistical pur- poses. This required a blank bearing the broad stamp of the Arms of Portugal, price one dollar. Duplicate blanks of " Outward Entry and Permit" were also required to be filed away among official documents, besides the observance of minor formalities, which would cause delay, anfl increase still further the amount he had already disbursed for the benefit of the royal treasury. Captain Buck re- monstrated, but the collector was inexorable, and things were in a most interesting position, when the latter once more expressed his surprise that an American captain should be so insensible to his in- terests as not to acquiesce in a change that would add to his per- sonal appearance, and which also would accord with the tastes of the gentlemen present. Our skipper took the hint, and a formal transfer of the white Panama was made for an old " chip," that was lost during the first gale. The subsequent ratification, consisting of a profusion of bows and compliments, savored strongly of " There shall be perpetual peace and amity between," &c.; and the captain, with ill-concealed chagrin, was escorted from the premises, while the guard did him the honor to present arms. I had not the pleasure of visiting Porta Praya, the principal city 38 , Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. of this group, and situated on the island of St. Jago, compensating in some respects for the inferiority of the towns in the rural districts. I do not believe that the town to which I have first alluded contained a house that could boast of a glass window. I visited a dilapidated fort, erected in a commanding position, but everything bespoke ruin and decay. The coarse grass was creeping over the plastered ram- parts, while perhaps a dozen guns of various calibre were pointing their rusty muzzles through the embrasures. After procuring such supplies as we could at St. Nicholas, we bore away for St. Jago, the principal island of the group, and which we reached the next morning. Like the others, it was a commin- gling of rugged peaks and sterile hills, here and there relieved by sequestered valleys clothed with bright verdure, some of them dotted by neatly whitewashed houses, half concealed by the foliage. It was at one of the rustic villages of this island that the captain proposed landing the morning of our arrival, and on this occasion also I obtained permission to go in the boat, where I was sure of an op- portunity of tugging at the oar, under a broiling sun. I should have mentioned before that I was not attached to either of the boats, a circumstance for which I was probably indebted to an accident that occurred to me the morning we were leaving port ; I hope the reader will pardon me for introducing it at the present time. We were " fishing" the larboard anchor ; some eighteen or twenty of us had clapped on to the fall, and were hauling away to the tune of " O, it's an Oldtown skipper and a Nantucket mate ;" the huge cat-block was toggled aloft, and happening to be directly beneath it when the decimation took place, I was the victim. The larboard port was triced up, and Mr. Short was on his hands and knees looking out to superintend his share of the business. Sudden- ly the toggle gave way, and down came the block upon my head (not fairly), and glancing, struck Mr. Short full in the rear with such vio- lence that he made a headlong plunge through the port, and only saved himself from falling into the water by seizing hold of the anchor- fluke. I was knocked down senseless, and, in my fall, another with me. When I recovered, I was on the quarter-deck, covered with blood, and supported by a couple of shipmates, while the captain was The Doctor in a Quandary. 39 trying his hand at surgery on two or three ugly gashes upon the back of my head. It was during the time I was confined to my bunk, re- covering from the effects of the blow, that the watches and boat's crews were chosen ; and when I was able to come on deck, I learned that I had not been assigned to either of the boats, but was to be one of the reserve which remains aboard while they are in pursuit of whales. As I before said, I obtained permission to join the crew, and off we started in the starboard boat, the waist boat keeping company. In due season we were laying on our oars just outside the surf, and looking for a convenient place to land. Several officious ebony- colored individuals ran along the beach, and with loud cries and ges.- ticulations gave us to understand that a little farther on, there was a cove protected from the swell of the sea by jutting rocks. Our boats were soon hauled upon the beach, abreast of the town, and a guard placed around each to prevent accident from the thieving propensity of the natives. The captain was waited upon by a young man of prepossessing appearance, who politely informed him that he was chief in authority at this place, and that any assistance he could ren- der him in the way of trafficking would be cheerfully tendered ; a civility that was accepted, and an amicable understanding at once existed between them. Almost his first inquiry was, if there was a doctor aboard. The captain referred him to me, and to avoid compromising the Planet's dignity, I confirmed the assertion, mentally wishing drugs and medicines at the bottom of the sea ; at the same time, passing rapidly in review the long catalogue of ills that flesh is heir to, and wondering what I should do if it happened to be a case of hysterics, my " vade mecum" and hartshorn being absent. The invalid proved to be an African female slave, suffering from debility, owing to a recent attack of fever. I left some simple direc- tions, intending to call again the next day. The courtesy of the young gentleman did not cease here ; he in- vited us to accompany him to his house a short distance up the val- ley, a request with which we cheerfully complied. It was a snug little tenement, neatly whitewashed within arid without, with lattice blinds. There was also a large paved court, the interior of which I did not see at first. We were ushered into a plain apartment 40 Recf-Rovings in the South Seas. where his lady was sitting, and that interesting ceremony, an in- terchange of compliments, where neither can comprehend the other, was inflicted with the best grace possible. Since then I have fre- quently wondered whether Senora took me for a sample of Ameri- can doctors. There was certainly nothing in my costume sugges- tive of sentiments flattering to the craft ; for on that occasion I wore a pair of coarse duck trowsers, a blue woollen shirt, and a sen- net hat ; but my hostess was evidently indifferent to secondary con- siderations, and her winning manner established a familiarity that was foreign to embarrassment. The captain and his newly-found quartermaster soon took their departure, leaving us to entertain our- selves as best we might. The apartment was plainly furnished, and the walls, as is usual in Catholic countries, were decorated with pictures of the saints and scriptural scenes, but there was an air of refreshing coolness about it that was delightful, after so fatiguing a pull. Near by was a grove of o'range trees, with the golden fruit peeping put from the luxuriant foliage. There were several African female slaves in attendance, and at a word from my entertainer, one of them left the room, but presently returned, bearing a plate of large oranges just plucked from the tree, and, kneeling down, presented them to me." This was an act of ser- vility uncongenial to republican feelings, but in the present instance it was of trifling moment, and as an appreciation of Senora's atten- tion, I applied myself to the juicy fruit, she, meanwhile, looking on very complacently. I hardly knew how we should entertain each other, but accident- ally espying a guitar-case under the table, and which I found con- tained a veritable instrument, at my request she favored me with several national airs. Our musical soiree having terminated, at her invitation I accompanied her to the court adjoining, where I saw some dozen slaves* of both sexes engaged in a variety of occupa- tions, and I blushed to see how scantily some of the younger females were attired, and who evinced not the slightest embarrassment at our approach, but chatted as familiarly with their mistress as if the sunshine of life had never been darkened by a cloud. In due time I received a summons Senora expressed her regrets the last adios were uttered, and we parted. Cruising, Of 41 CHAPTER V. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE "PLANET" AND HER PROPENSITIES. ONCE more we were all aboard, pigs squealing, turkeys gobbling, and chanticleers crowing ; luscious bananas were clustering around the stern, and hanging as ornamental appendages from the stays, while oranges and cocoanuts were scattered about in the greatest profusion. Good-bye to this quarter of the globe : when next we revel upon terra firma, it will be somewhere in the broad Pacific. Every stitch of muslin the old " Planet" would bear was crowded on her, for we had no time to lose if we would reach the northwest cruismg-ground in good season, where, amid the fog, we were to fight " polars" and " bowheads" in the icy Arctic and stormy seas of Kamtschatka. On we bounded, the old " Planet" creaking and groaning, like a fretful child, at the additional task imposed on her : down she would plunge at an approaching sea, as if hastening to the shock, and, though slightly shuddering, the old lady always rose gayly above it, while with evident satisfaction she tossed a shower of brine upon her time-worn decks as she dashed recklessly on to meet another. Like the fickle sex, the " Planet" had her faults ; but after all, we can hardly blame her, doomed to such perpetual servitude as she had been for more than twenty years, cruising for the sperm whale in tropical seas, and again, her cordage brittle and hoary with nor- thern frosts. Dark rumors were abroad respecting her, concerning unearthly sounds and supernatural appearances that had been heard and seen during a storm, suggesting legends of haunted tenements, for her decks had been stained with the blood of murder, and there was no seaman on board who would have dared to whistle defiance when the storm-god was shrieking through her cordage. But the worst feature in her eventful history occurred during her previous voyage. She was " hove-to" in a gale in the Pacific that had con- tinued for several days, and with helm lashed " a-lee," she came to, and fell off with so much precision while struggling with the huge 42 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. seas, that she inspired a feeling of confidence among her officers and crew, who little dreamed of the frightful change that was so soon to come over them. The starboard watch had the deck that morning ; the second officer was at the carpenter's bench, and the doctor, cooper, and carpenter were in the stern boat, amusing them- selves by " scrimshoning" (designing upon) whalebone. Suddenly, a mountain-wave rose high above the bulwarks and descended like an avalanche upon her deck, carrying all before it, and sweeping seven souls into eternity, who, but a moment before, were as con- scious of security as if dwelling in their far-off homes. The second officer was transfixed by a spar that was torn from its lashing. Of those in the stern boat, the doctor was never afterwards seen, but the cooper and carpenter struggled for a long time ; arid although their voices were unheard, they could be seen, with outstretched arms, as they rose on the crest of a wave. Bulwarks and stanchions were carried away;. the comings of the main-hatch started, main and mizen masts went by the board, and every boat on the cranes, together with the spare ones overhead, were stoven : in short, the " Planet" was a wreck. I recollect an instance of her taking us by surprise. We Rad been " hove-to" for three or four days off the river " Plate," (Rio de la Plata,) and the weather being cold withal, we had huddled together under the lee-side of the house, and a number of heads were crouched behind the stiff collars of monkey-jackets for protection. Suddenly she shipped a sea that, carrying away the gangway, came rolling aft like a flood. As might be supposed, there was a general scrambling; some sprang for the stern boat, while others bolted for the rigging, and I never witnessed more agility in a gymnasium than was dis- played by Folger on that occasion ; for at a bound he cleared the bulwarks and was in the lee mizen rigging, up which he scampered until he reached the futtock shrouds. A hogshead of water was poured down the steerage, while the lee state-rooms were afloat. After a brief interval, we saw the bald head of old John protruding itself above the scuttle, his tout ensemble having the appearance of being completely drenched, and, all things considered, he looked like an apparition of Neptune rebuking the storm. The illusion was in nowise dispelled by his subsequent proceedings, for as soon as he Premonitions of Rigid Discipline. 43 could open his mouth, he poured forth a volley of curses in choice Celtic, first upon the winds, then upon the waves, and lastly upon the ship, swearing that if " he had got to be drowned, it should never be below hatches." A week had passed since we saw the gray peaks of St. Jago sink beneath the horizon ; and was it fancy or not, but our com- mander seemed to pace the quarter-deck with a firmer tread than before ; orders were more frequent, and rigidly enforced. We hoped it was an illusion, but too soon it became a reality, for daily the gulf of distinction impassable grew deeper and broader, until the perspective of our future lot looked vague and uncertain. Each had recourse to his own philosophy; wisely destroying the few relics of civilization I still retained, 1 plunged at once into the mysteries of the slop-chest and attired myself in its coarse woollen garments no guernsey frocks, for I detest them ; and my monkey-jacket and short- six proved my best companions during the voyage. An incident occurred one Sunday morning which served to im- press us forcibly that discipline would be strictly maintained. As for me, I was mute with astonishment, for it was the first affair of the. kind I had ever witnessed ; but during subsequent rovings, I have learned to look upon a denouement of this nature as a before- breakfast amusement. " Mr. Short," said Captain Buck as he came on deck, " who were those men in your watch you found sleeping last night ?" " Old Bill and War'ick, sir." Here was a firebrand thrown among tis. We were as merry a group as could be around the windlass : some reading, some mend- ing, and others raising the wind generally. Bill himself was as- tonishing me with an instance of his personal prowess in the China seas, when, on board of an opium clipper, the officers and crew kept at bay two armed junks. On this occasion he had himself vanquished seven men, and was already speaking of a tall fellow, with a long lance and hat as formidable as Mambrino's helmet, when he heard his name pronounced by Mr. Short, and suddenly breaking off, remarked, " Now, bullies, you are going to see some fun ;" and so the sequel proved, for Bill's opinion perfectly coinciding with that of Captain Buck, no one was disappointed. 44 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. " Order Bill aft !" continued the captain. " Fleet aft, there, Bill !" " Billy, love, you won't tell of me ?" whispered a quizzing individual, trying to look affectionate. " I'll bet my lay against any other man's in the ship, that that soger fights rats in the run before night," said another. William moved aft with a sort of devil-may-care air, until he reached the line of demarkation, the galley, when he was checked by the command of, " Stand where you are!" The captain advanced. " Then you are the d d soger that slept on watch last night, are you ?" " I laid down a little while towards morning, sir, but there was a good look-out stationed all the time between the night-heads, sir." " Suppose there were a hundred look-outs between the night- heads, does that give you any right to disobey orders ? My orders are, that no man shall sleep on watch. I'd a mind, when I first be- gan, to make an example of you ; but bear it in mind, that if I ever catch you at it again, I'll knock seven bells out of you ! Go 'long ; I've done with you." " But I was tired ; besides, the law allows seamen so many hours rest." " What !" exclaimed the captain, almost stupefied with astonish- ment, " dare you talk to me about law ? Go forward, sir, this in- stant." Unfortunately for Bill, his propensity for " fun" left him standing irresolute, but in a moment a huge fist laid him sprawling in the lee scuppers, and the next, the hands of Mr. Grasper as he knelt upon his breast, compressed his throat like a vice, until the extremity of William's nose changed from a rich vermilion to a beautiful plum color. " Fetch on the bracelets here, some one," shouted Mr. Grasper ; " we've found a live sea-lawyer, and the cap'n's just got out a writ of habeas corpus" Bill was speedily ironed, and escorted below by two or three offi- cers, while one of the boys seated upon the heel of the bowsprit was carelessly humming the rogue's march. He was confined in the run, on low diet, for the three days following. A Live Sea-Lawyer. 45 Our skipper had just got his hand in. " You, War'ick ! Come here !" " Alas ! poor Yorick !" as Chips used to exclaim with a tragic air ; he was as verdant as the meadows where he pastured his cows. I don't wonder he saw no harm, when night came, in stealing a little rest upon the hard planks. It might be truly said that he rose with fear and trembling to comply with what sounded to him like a death- warrant ; and he moved slowly aft, sliding his hand along the bul- warks for support. " Did you sleep on watch last night, War'ick ?" commenced his interrogator, with a most annihilating scowl. " Yes, sir ; but I got up as soon as Mr. Short told me to " " Didn't you know it was against orders ?" " Yes, sir ; but some of the sailors told me it wouldn't make any odds, as long as the folks in the cabin didn't find it out." I thought I could distinguish an expansion of the captain's left cheek, as though his tongue was there. " Suppose, sir, I should have you heavily ironed, and kept in the run a week on a pint of water and three biscuits a day ?" No reply, but the culprit shivered visibly. " Well, I'll let you off this time ; one's enough for to-day, but look out for the next. March !" I have anticipated a hundred times the cogitations of an old Jack when he is accommodated with lodgings in the " run." Does he console himself with thoughts of vengeance, or by rummaging around with his hands in bracelets after the raisin keg ? Day after day he is doomed to hear the clatter of dishes overhead, while his fertile ima- gination conjures up visions of barbacued pigs, bean soups, and smok- ing duff. Hardly a ray of light can penetrate through the trap to his submarine dungeon, and, solitary and disconsolate, he stows him- self away among sundry boxes of " small stores" and harpoons in re- serve. Nevertheless, he has several very consoling reflections : al- though he may be somewhat annoyed by the rats, he is spared that interesting pastime of scrubbing deck ; and if a faint sound of grating and plashing may sometimes reach him, it comes only as a vision of some far-off evil, from which he is perfectly secure ; he can laugh at the recollection of that ominous summons, " draw water." 46 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. In obedience to an order, I was one day rummaging about one of the cabin lockers for something, when the steward raised the trap to give the prisoner his daily allowance. I stole a glance into the dark vault, from which arose a sickening odor of bilge-water, and it was some time before the obscurity of the place would admit of my see- ing a shadowy outline perched upon a box at the further extremity, with its fettered hands clasped complacently before it, and both its feet braced resolutely against a sampson-post, to preserve an equili- brium. There he sat, patient and resigned, like every politician who has been deserted by his constituents a martyr to privileged intoler- ance, owing to liberal sentiments he sought to disseminate among his less aspiring shipmates. Bill's was emphatically a case of " prin- ciple versus privilege." CHAPTER VI. GAUL AND HIBERNIA. DURING the checkered course of existence, we occasionally meet with happy dispositions too wavering to incline them to any fixed notions of enjoyment, and with whom the asperities of life, by grinding and polishing, or, in the present instance, by familiarizing themselves with them, may be made to harmonize with each other, and who, by easily conforming to whatever position fortune has assigned them, jog happily along in shadow and sunshine. Our little community was blessed with a few such anomalies, whose happy temperament was ruffled by neither scowls nor duty, and it was always a pleasure to observe their smiling faces and sponta- neous efforts. I do not mean to say they were more industrious than others, but that they performed their duties to the best of their ability, and praise and reprimand were received alike with indiffer- ence. They were active and willing, and, as such, merited and received to a certain extent the approbation of their officers. Most conspicuous among these was our Vulcan, a Canadian A Fickle Lover. 47 Frenchman from Montreal, a young man of perhaps five-and-twenty, and who, when he first came among us, spoke not a word of Eng- lish, but in which, before six months had passed, he was toler- ably proficient. Nearly every day, when the weather would per- mit, his anvil rang out as merrily as it did on the banks of the St. Lawrence, and he was ever disposed to render a service to a ship- mate, for he was a favorite with all. However, he was not exempt from the more arduous duties incident to his new profession ; but in storm or calm, alow or aloft, his merry song was sung as cheerfully as ever. He, for one, escaped contention and abuse, and though glad he was with us, I could not but regret on hi& account the acci- dent to which we were indebted. He had come from Canada with his brother, both designing to seek employment in the United States, but missing the route of their proposed destination, they found them- selves at one of our seaport towns, where some prowling land-shark, by holding out brilliant inducements, set at naught the resolution of the unsophisticated Gauls, and in perhaps an evil hour, they were persuaded to ship. But here a sad mistake occurred, either through their ignorance of our language or the selfishness of the owners, for they were both assigned to different ships, fitted out for at least three years' cruises the one a sperm whaler bound for the Indian Ocean, and the other a right whaler destined for the Pacific. Pro- testations were unavailing ; and their only satisfaction, while both vessels were anchored in the .bay preparatory to sailing, was for each to recognize the other from opposite bulwarks, for all visiting was prohibited. Like others among his shipmates, he had experienced the tender pagsion, and a certain jeune file had wept at his de- parture. But change of scene and occupation often accomplish wonders, and before we had reached our port of destination he spoke of his courtship with indifference. What volumes might be written on the inconstancy of man ! Two years afterwards, amid the noise and bustle of Commercial Wharf in San Francisco, I was rec- ognized and accosted by an old shipmate, who revived many a reminiscence I had consigned to oblivion. I inquired particularly after the Frenchman, whose name I have forgotten, and learned that he had cruised awhile amid Arctic fogs, and chased the sperm whale within the tropics, and finally, when the shio had touched at 48 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. New Zealand for supplies, he effected his escape, became enamored, and married one of the dark Mowree girls. There was another, too, whose humorous face should not be forgotten, and this was Bill, the Irish steerage boy. Stationed as he was between two fires, the steerage and the forecastle, cuffed and growled at by the occupants of one to extinguish any embryo notions of ambition he might entertain, and formally driven forth as a deserter whenever he trespassed within the barrier of the other, he retained his equanimity in a remarkable degree, though occasionally varied by a spirit of opposition. I remember on one occasion Bill's being caught napping. We were somewhere in the South Atlantic ; the middle watch had the deck, and a more lovely moonlight never shone upon the slumber of a weary seaman. Bill had in some respects judiciously chosen his position, certainly as regards convenience, for, seated upon the windlass, with his monkey-jacket beneath him, he leaned pleasantly back against the iron brake, with both his arms extended upon it ; on the other hand, it was too exposed for him to escape detec- tion should the officer of the watch come forward, but provided he confined his beat to the quarter-deck, the tryworks afforded a safe protection in the rear. That night, however, Mr. Short took it into his head to visit us, and his lynx-eye immediately discovered the de- linquent. He went around in front to obtain a better view, but Bill's was a bona fide sleep, and the stern gaze of the officer was unheeded. Whatever punishment Mr. Short meditated inflicting, none of us knew. After a momentary contemplation, a thought suddenly oc- curred to him which relaxed his features into something like a smile, and holding up his finger for us to be silent, he walked aft on tip- toe, and presently returned with a quantity of soot from the binacle. First of all, some spun-yarn v/as provided, arid his extended arms secured in the position they had naturally taken, then his feet were fastened to the windlass, and, strange to say, the sleeper was unconscious of the joke that was being perpetrated upon him. And now commenced a series of delineations upon his round and ruddy face. First, a formidable pair of eyebrows that nearly met, and a streak down the nose, gave him a. ferocious appearance ; next, a pair of fine curling mustachios, and two curved lines extending from either cheek-bone to the chin, somewhat relaxed the severity of ex- A Ludicrous Procedure. 49 pression. The taste of the artist then took a different turn, and by delicate touches the whole field was covered with quadrants, semi- circles, and various geometrical problems, giving him the most far- cical appearance conceivable. I have since seen many a tattooed savage in the South Seas, but Bill eclipsed them all. The tempta- tion to laugh was too strong for human nature to look upon with in- difference, and the suppressed titter that was first heard when Mr. Short commenced his sketch, had gradually increased, and by the time the finishing touch was given, nothing but peals of laughter was heard from all on deck. I laugh when I think of it ; and Bill awoke, and thinking himself merely fettered, laughed too, making his posi- tion more ludicrous than ever. The moon shone brightly, and his white teeth glistened in broad contrast to his sooty face. But the worst of it was not yet over for poor Bill. " Draw me a bucket of water, there, one of you." The brine was forthcoming, and Mr. Short elevating the bucket, poured its contents over the head of his now gasping victim ; after this he was cut adrift, when he sought refuge in the steerage by the speediest route possible. And so we jogged along, days and weeks passing rapidly away, while we busied ourselves with the daily routine of ship duty. Every little incident that occurred to relieve the monotony, had to us its pe- culiar interest ; even the phenomenon of a shooting star, during the silent watches of the night, would call forth an observation. When the bright gems of Ursa Major were no longer visible above the horizon, we felt that the last link that united us to home had been severed, but amid the constellations that spangled a new firmament, we traced out that enduring symbol of faith, the Southern Cross. 4 50 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. CHAPTER VII. % SOMETHING MORE ABOUT MR. GRASPER, THE increasing coolness of the atmosphere betokened' our approach to higher latitudes, and when off the Rio de la Plata, we received the usual quota of squalls and rough weather ; but we were now bet- ter prepared for the encounter, for our crew had by this time become wonderfully metamorphosed into old salts, at least as pertained to externals ; most of them during leisure moments having experimented upon the wardrobe of the slop-chest. I should perhaps have mentioned before that our stations at mast- head had riot been idle, and frequently we were startled from our oc- cupations by the clear, sonorous words, " Ah ! b-1-o-w-s !" After the usual questions and responses, boats were lowered, but all in vain, their whaleships being evidently aware of the proximity of cold iron, and after spouting defiance a few times, scampered off to wind- ward, while our oily anticipations vanished as smoothly as the com- modity itself. An incident that occurred in these latitudes is worth noticing, not on account of any extraordinary danger connected with it, but as being of frequent occurrence to those engaged in this profession. About the middle of the forenoon, a school of whales was " raised;'' the main- yard was promptly laid aback, boats were lowered and' off in pursuit. The chase somehow or other got an inkling of the matter, and led off to windward in fine style, the boats following as fast as their sturdy oarsmen could propel them, until by the aid of the glass neither whales nor boats were visible. There were but six of us remaining aboard, and if I except the cooper, who acted as ship- keeper, but who was too infirm to render any active service in case of emergency, there was but one able seaman remaining. The weather was unusually fine, and so long as it continued, no one was apprehensive of danger ; we could now range the deck fore and aft without control, and some were even bold enough to watch their oppor- tunity and venture into the cabin, from which I afterwards saw two or A Squall, and its Consequences. 51 three foraging parties returning with spoils of " soft tack" and ginger- bread. Just after noon, we descried a dark cloud rising rapidly in the horizon. All who have sailed in these latitudes know how sur- prisingly quick a squall will arise and overtake a vessel ; in this instance, we had barely time to let fly our top-gallant and flying-jib halliards, for we were working to windward, before it was upon us. We had but one alternative to up helm and let her drive until we could reduce sail, for we could only let go and clew-up. I never saw braces work so hard as on that occasion, for it required our utmost efforts to give the main yard a cant. The rain fell in torrents, and beat with such fury, that it was almost impossible to look to windward, and we must have scudded twelve or fifteen minutes be- fore we could bring the ship to the wind. The old cooper was almost beside himself with anxiety, for the responsibility devolved upon him. During the squall, I recollect seeing him stumble forward, frantic with excitement, to execute an order he had just issued, to haul down the flying-jib, which was now fluttering in ribbons from the stay. By some mistake, he seized hold of the sheet instead of the downhaul, which -he could hold just as easily as he could lead a mad bull by the horns. At every jerk, I expected to see the poor man's head fly from his shoulders, but still he clung to it with the tenacity of despair, though momentarily threatened with dislocation ; and several times I heard him exclaim distractedly, " God help us ! The old man '11 think I'm running away from him." In about half an hour the squall had blown over, and as soon as the atmosphere had become sufficiently clear, we discerned some- thing like a speck upon the water to windward, which proved to be one of the boats ; in due season the others hove in sight, and soon after we were happy to welcome our shipmates safe on board. I should, however, except Mr. Grasper, who, while " hooking on," was not sufficiently on his guard ; the boat having swung under the counter, and rising on a sea while the ship settled down, he received a blow upon his broad shoulders that bent him to the loggerhead. Of this accident I reaped the bitter fruit. Every day for more than a week, I was indulged with the humane occupation of rubbing the bruised flesh, while at the same time he nearly distracted me 52 JReef-Rovings in the South Seas. with questions upon the relative merits of embrocations and lini- ments. One day I had an opportunity of retaliating upon him for this per- secution. Being of plethoric habit, he was frequently troubled, after over exertion, with a " rush of blood" to the head, and which was sufficiently evinced by his unnaturally suffused countenance. It was on one of these occasions that he came to me complaining of a " terrible oppression aloft," and inquired whether I could do anything for him. I examined his pulse with indefinite delay, then staring at him with all the solemnity I could assume, pronounced him in a critical situation, intimating at the same time that there were strong symptoms of pericarditis. " The devil, though ! What would you prescribe ?" " Phlebotomy !" " Flea bottom me ! Why, what's that ?" "Venesection." " Look here, my boy : the mizzen spanker-gaff wants scraping, and I'm goin' to haul the ship up three pints nigher the wind one of these days, and give some of you a work-up job. When you talk to me, I want you to talk plain English. You don't know me yet." (Here Mr. Grasper gave a rotary motion to his herculean shoulders, while his mouth went into convulsions.) " Translate that word you said last." " Bleeding, sir !" " Moses ! Why, I wouldn't be tapped for anything. I was only bled once in my life, and that was in Turkowana (Talcahuano.) The doctor fussed over me for two hours before he hove his iron. He said I had the dreadfullest arm to bleed he ever saw." The most elaborate reasoning failed to convince him at the time, and I left him vacillating between the propriety of my prescription and the physical derangement consequent upon having his arm punctured. However, about the middle of the afternoon, he called me aft to the companionway, where the steward had just placed a basin of warm water. Mr. Grasper had planted himself firmly upon deck, with his right arm akimbo. His shirt-sleeve was rolled up from the left arm, which was extended at right angles with his body, and terminating in a ponderous fist ; with lips rigid by muscular con- Attempt at Surgery. . , 53 i traction, he looked for all the world like Bacchus endeavoring to personate Hercules. " Get your lance there, doctor ; I'm goin' to be bled !" he shouted as soon as I had passed the galley. The quarter-deck at this time presented a busy spectacle. The afternoon was fine,, and Captain Buck was astride of a lance-pole, the head of which rested upon the bulwarks, where the sun's rays glistened upon the polished steel ; its long taper shaft he was en- deavoring to smooth with a spoke-shave. Three or four of the crew, seated upon deck, were overhauling superannuated potatoes, which they facetiously termed " scurvy pills." One of them, Old Bill, as I approached, rolled his eyes wildly, and throwing back his head, made a significant gesture by drawing his index finger across his throat from one ear to the other. Weasle was at the wheel. Instead of bringing the lance only, I brought the case of instru- ments, and opening it to its full extent, laid it upon the companion- way, to the consternation of Mr. Grasper. " Why, here ! Why, what's all this ?" exclaimed that officer. " I can tell you, sir, after making an examination." Although a muscular man, Mr. Grasper's tendons and arteries were liberally in- cased- with fat ; and any practitioner will readily perceive that the opening of a vein so situated, is a more delicate operation than when it is fully exposed as in thin subjects. " On this hint, I spake." After applying the bandage, and giving him the handle of a scrub- broom to hold, with directions for him to keep his fingers continu- ally moving,! proceeded to examine his arm carefully and deliberately, during which process I shook my head ominously two or three times. " Why, what's the matter with you, doctor 1 Why don't you fire, and fall back ?" " The fact is, Mr. Grasper, I never met with such an arm as yours in my life. I don't wonder the surgeon in ' Turkowana' de- layed so long before performing the operation."' " Why so ?" " Because your veins are very deep-seated remarkably so." " Do you think there's any danger ?" he inquired somewhat anx- iously, looking from me to his arm, where two or three light azure streaks were barely discernible upon a field of bronze. 54 Reef-Rovings in the South Seaf. " I will be frank with you, sir, and explain the nature of the case as well as I am able, after which you can judge for yourself. In the first place, sir, your arm at this point contains five veins, which, for the sake of distinction, we call the cephalic, basilic, median, median- cephalic, and median-basilic. I propose opening the median-basilic, which we usually do on account of its size ; but in your case it will be attended with danger, for by the peculiar throbbing, I judge that either the brachial or ulnar artery lies immediately beneath it." I then proceeded to apply the lancet. " Hold on ! hold on ! Have I got all those things in my arm ? Supposen you should cut an artery ?" " Oh, I'm prepared for that ! If such an accident should occur, I would try to check the hemorrhage by a compress ; but if that failed, I should take this instrument (removing the glittering blade of the scalpel from its casement of variegated hawk's-bill) and dissect care- fully until I reached the wounded vessel, which I would endeavor to seize with this instrument, (pointing to the tenaculum,) and tie both its severed extremities. After this, I would secure it with a figure- of-eight bandage. I forgot to mention, sir, that, owing to the depth of your veins beneath the skin, unless the opening of the cuticle corresponds precisely with that of the vein, a thrombus will be formed, occasioned by the blood escaping into the adipose tissue." Mr. Grasper relaxed his hold of the broom-handle, which fell upon deck, while that famous arm dropped mechanically to his side. " I guess I won't be bled to-day, Doctor . I see you've got a thumb-lancet; in Holmes's Hole, we always use spring ones." It was in vain that I attempted to expatiate upon the antiquity of the former, and to denounce the latter as a mere plaything of modern invention. He was inexorable ; and removing the bandage, and roll- ing down his sleeve, he intimated by his gestures that my audience was at an end. I do not know whether Mr. Grasper concluded mentally 'that I had been indulging a personal gratification at his ex- pense ; but certain it is, that, during the last two months of our un- avoidable relationship, he eschewed all familiarity with me, and availed himself of every opportunity for rendering my situation as disagreeable as possible. A sense of duty, nay, respect for bodies corporate, (I beg his par- Mr. Grasper His Peculiarities. 55 don,) impels me to offer a slight tribute to the memory of a great man. Yes, he was truly a great man ; for in point of dimension, he might have been mistaken for a diminutive specimen of the cetacea he was in pursuit of; yet upon occasions he was gentle as a lamb, and when in a towering passion, it was impossible to oblit- erate the signs of mirth that lurked about the corners of his mouth. Mr. Grasper was not without his faults some of them glaring ones ; but over these I draw a veil, for he was a reflect- ing man, deeply so, and that was a redeeming quality. I have seen him puffing mechanically from his short clay pipe while he gazed at the tryworks in a fit of gloomy abstraction ; then, as if suddenly aroused from his re very by the birth of a latent germ of intellect, he would fetch a sort of blowing sound, (which I have always supposed was intended for a sigh,) while he smothered an imprecation upon the ingratitude of owners and low price of oil. Strange as it may seem, he possessed a poetic vein ; while taking altitudes, I have frequently heard him, after removing the quadrant from his eye, give utterance to the following couplet : " As the secant is to the half sum, So is the cosine to a bottle of rum." " Still as the breeze but dreadful as the storm," I have seen him with his weather-eye lifted, hovering about our little fold like a strange sail in the offing, backing and filling, edging nearer little by little, then keeping away again until he had obtained a commanding position, when, like a hungry hawk, at one swoop he would pounce upon his victim. But I do not love to harrow the mind with the dark side of a picture, though true. Years have flown by since the occurrence of these events, and every vindictive feeling has been long since consigned to oblivion. Then come, Mr. Grasper, if your venerable hulk is still floating upon the sea of life, accept the prof- fered hand, and let us be friends again ere exchanging " So 'long" forever. Before we part, however, we will indulge in the recollec- tion of one of the pastimes you were occasionally pleased to fur- nish us. It is blowing a gale ; the vessel is " hove-to," and there is a heavy sea running. The captain swings below in his cot, and the mate is 56 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. officer of the deck. Our fresh diet is stowed in a solid mass be- tween the weather-bulwarks and the tryworks, a position, by-the- bye, advantageously chosen,' for here their swineships are protected from the wind, and secure from any accident that might occur from the rolling of the ship. Between the tryworks and the main hatch, the space is clear, and Weaslc is ordered to bring some slush and apply it to a portion of the deck to windward. He then brings a quantity of corn, which he hands Mr. Grasper, who scatters it temptingly upon the greasy surface. Humanity would suggest that the poor victims be permitted to eke out as comfortable an existence as possible during the brief period of their impressment, but riot so thought Mr. Grasper. After sundry grunts, they would rouse them- selves, give a shake or two to be perfectly sure that their sea-legs were on, then proceed cautiously with their noses down toward the corn, and in a few moments a goodly number would be assembled, crunching away voraciously. An ordinary lurch would not disturb their equilibrium, for with their toes in the seams of the deck, they braced resolutely ; but presently a huge sea rises, gathering strength as it approaches, until, like an avalanche, it seems ready to burst upon us. Then was the critical moment. " Hold hard there, boys, and twig 'em !" shouts Mr. Grasper, as the wave strikes the ship, causing her to heel to leeward, until a cataract pours over her bul- warks, while the porkers, en masse go sliding, biting, and squeal- ing, into the lee scupper, looking, and with good reason, like the most disconsolate creatures in the world. This species of diversion, together with shaving and decorating them with various colors, he would never indulge in when Captain Buck was present, for our skipper was severe in his denunciations of it, not so much, perhaps, from sympathy for the animals as from other considerations. The spectacle of a lean pig hobbling about deck with a fractured limb is anything but an inviting object, even if one is beyond the reach of fresh dainties. A Professional Colloquy. 57 CHAPTER VIII. "VERY LIKE A WHALE!" IT was a cold morning in the month of December ; the cutting wind that blew fresh from the snowy mountains of Patagonia, then in sight, together with an occasional dash of brine, made us court the embrace of our monkey-jackets more ardently than ever. It could not have been later than six o'clock, when, " Ah ! b-1-o-w-s ! " rang out clear and distinct from the mast-head. Mr. Gurrie had the deck. " Where away ?" " Three pints off the lee-bow." " What is it ?" " A school of sperm whale, sir." Mr. Gurrie paused a moment ; a school of sperm whales in such high latitudes was something unusual in his experience, and he felt half inclined to doubt it. " How do you know ?" " Low and bushy spouts, sir ; they've ' milled' now, and are pinting to wind'ard." " Well, keep your eye on 'em ; here, Easy, watch her while I speak to the ' old man ;' I don't think he'll lower with this wind and sea." A moment after, and Captain Buck was on deck in deshabille. " Where are they now ?" he shouted, looking attentively at the crow's nest. " About a pint off the lee-bow; say two miles off, sir." " Trim the yards, there, Mr. Grasper ; brace her up as sharp as she'll go, and call all hands to stand by the boats." Then to the helmsman, " Keep her up a couple of pints, if she'll go it there, steady 's you go, and watch her close." He then went below to complete his attire. All these orders were executed almost as soon as . given, with the exception of the appearance of the watch below, but they soon came tumbling out of the scuttle, half clad and rubbing their eyes. 58 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. There was a " mustering in hot haste" among the boat-steerers ; all superfluous articles they hastily bundled out of their boats upon deck ; lances were brandished, arid short warps inspected, sheaths were removed, and the keen edges of their irons tested between thumb and finger ; there was no idle joking among them ; it was a moment of desperate resolve. We had a short chopping sea on, a most disagreeable one for boats, and through this we were now dashing close-hauled upon the wind- to forelay the chase. Every man was on the alert, and some had already sprung into the rigging. " There she blows ! there she blows !" rang out simultaneously ^ from every mouth as the whales came up to breathe. We were almost aboard of them. The captain dropped his spy-glass. " Haul 'back the main yard, and put the line-tub in the boat. Mr. Grasper, stand by to lower away." " Larboard boat's crew ! do you hear there ?" bellowed that offi- cer, frantic with excitement, as he stood bareheaded, without coat, and his sleeves rolled up to his elbows. " You, Brown ! You, Fisher ! spring, I tell you, or I'll make mincemeat of you in just seventeen and three-quarter seconds by the chronometer." These two individuals, though partial to sausages, manifested ex- treme reluctance at the idea of having "their bodies converted into that article of diet, and accelerated their movements accord- ingly. " You, Smith !" continued he, " hold on to that block until it turns to a lump of silver how dare you let go ?" By this time leviathan was giving us grand illustrations in hydraulics, which called forth another exclamation from Mr. Grasper. " In the name of Moses, look at 'em ! Now, Abram, don't go to sea again, won't you ? Little darlings hundred barrellers, every one of them." "Are you all ready, there ?" hailed Captain Buck. " Aye, aye, sir !" " Well, lower away, then, and be quick about it." " Slack away roundly for'ard tackle handsomely after fall ! You, Fisher ! steady, or I'll wollop you with the steering-oar." The boat has struck the water, and her crew slide down the " falls ; " each man knows his oar, and after a momentary delay, A Chase Exciting Scene. 59 away it started in pursuit, Mr Grasper shouting incoherently, and, as far as his limits would permit, capering like a madman. In the mean time, the other officers had not been idle. Mr. Gurrie, with less noise and equal energy, had cleared away, lowered, and was off. Mr. Short had received no order respecting the bow boat, and he saw but too plainly how the battle was going : he must re- main ship-keeper, and reap none of the glory. Summoning up his courage for a first and final effort, he went aft to soften the stony- hearted captain, of whom he stood in slavish awe. Every mus- cle in his weather-beaten face was twisted up with ludicrous effect, for the purpose of making a pathetic appeal. I know not whether it was the coldness of the morning, but his eyes wore a vitreous expression, and a bright drop glistened in either corner. Poor man ! His honor was at stake. " I tell you, Mr. Short, you must not go. I can't spare you. I must have some one aboard that I can depend upon, for I'm going 1 myself. Starboard boat's crew ! stand by to lower." With a woe-begone expression, Mr. Short paced despondingly up and down opposite his boat ; and even the boat-steerer seemed to partake of his " header's" supposed humiliation. The carpenter, who belonged to the captain's boat, exhibited some reluctance about going, for the water that morning looked wet and cold ; but Josh, who, more than a month ago, had been exalted to the post of steward, without coat, hat, or shoes, sprang immediately into his place, and away they went. The whales had by this time become " gallied," and were scat- tered : some had " gone flukes," others scampered off to windward, and the first two boats seemed no nearer the chase than when they started. At last, more experienced eyes than mine saw one rise not far from the captain's boat, which was immediately pointed for it, and hardly five minutes had elapsed before they reported it was fast. I managed to get hold of the telescope, and was well repaid for my temerity. The dark back of leviathan, as he dashed on to windward, was plainly visible amid a sea of foam, tinged with the blood that was bursting in jets from his spiracles. The boat, not far behind, was flying along with equal or diminished speed, as the line was either checked or slackened around the loggerhead, not 60 Reef -Roving s in the South Seas. skimming, but cutting through the seas, and half hidden by sheets of foam. An experienced officer was at the loggerhead, to tend line, and the boat-steerer, with his hatchet, stood ready to sever it, should the emergency require. It was a grand, but, nevertheless, a cold sight. Soon after, Mr. Gurrie returned on board, sulky at his bad luck, and gave idle spectators a job at reefing topsails ; it was not long before Captain Buck made his appearance also, while Mr. Grasper, in the larboard boat, was stationed by the prize. All were thoroughly drenched, and the captain's boat, usually so trim and neat, bore traces of the recent conflict : lances and irons were sheathless and bent ; the hatchet, thollpins, bailer, and other indispensables, were scattered promiscuously about, and here and there dark patches of blood were conspicuous. Some half dozen shivering wretches climbed over the bulwarks, seeking refuge below and a change of garments. Josh soon ap- peared in a warm woollen shirt, with his collar " all abroad," and looking ruddy as ever. " Well, Josh," said the cooper, " what do you think of whaling by this time ?" " Great, sir ; nothing like it ; a dash or so of fresh-water spray, but none the worse for that. Mr. Easy struck him in the ' life' the first dart, but I did feel a little squeamish about the gills when I smelt the warm blood."* CHAPTER IX. WHEREIN IT WILL BE SEEN THAT WHALING IS NO JOKE. ALL was now hurry and bustle ; the wind was gradually increas- ing, and we were compelled to work sharp to save our prize. A line was got out, and made fast to the whale, which was still a long way * When a whale, after being mortally wounded, spouts blood, the effect of the odor arising from it is frequently such as to produce nausea and vomiting upon those within its influence. Preparations for an Attack. 61 off, and various turns were taken about the bitts and belaying-pins ; then commenced a long and tedious job of hauling, which continued, I should think, about two hours, after which we ventured to look over the side. It proved to be a young sperm bull, say a fifty-barreller. There he lay stretched out alongside, his brown back just exposed, and un- dulating gently with the motion of the water. The little instrument that had carried death to the' monster v* as buried nearly to the socket in his side, and from the pole a portion of the warp was still dangling. With considerable difficulty a chain cable was passed around it, and secured amidships, while a strong hawser attached to the flukes was made fast to the windlass. A squad was sent below to get up the cutting falls and gear, and in due time the ponderous blocks were swinging from the mainmast. The carpenter and his assistants busied themselves about erecting a stage over the side, under the supervi- sion of Captain Buck, and spades, with their long slender shafts, were taken by the boat-steerers from their resting-places, where they had grown rusty, and resharpened ; besides, there was a mus- tering of cutting-pikes, and all the indispensables that had long been forgotten. By the time our preparations were completed it was past noon, and all hands were knocked off for dinner, which consisted of the usual quota of jurik and bean soup. It was a matter of doubt with some whether we would be able to save even a " blanket-piece," for the wind had increased to a gale, arid although the fastenings had been left well slackened, the whale was surging up and down in a manner that threatened every moment to part them ; about one o'clock the hawser, the strongest rope in the ship, went with a snap. All hope of wearing ship, and getting the whale to leeward, was then abandoned, and our only alternative was to work cautiously and save what we could. I do not wonder that Mr. Easy exhibited considerable reluctance at the part he was to play, and that the boat-steerers congratulated themselves for the time on the inferiority of their stations. Captain Buck, with a rope around his waist, had gone out upon the stage, and with a keen spade had been churning the whale's back during the 62 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. intervals it "sUowed itself above water, and after a while had suc- ceeded in making a tolerable hole to " hook on to." Whaling etiquette required that whoever steered the captain's boat, usually the fourth officer, should go down and hook on. In ordinary weather there is no great difficulty attending the process, for persons are stationed upon the stage with sharp spades to drive away the numerous sharks that are always prowling about in low latitudes ; and I have seen a "calf" that bore the impress of their teeth. In the present instance there was no danger of this kind to be apprehended, for the weather was too cold ; but what was worse, there was a fearful sea run- ning that sometimes raised the whale nearly to a level with the deck, then sinking low in the troth, a broken wave would bury it in a cauldron of foam. In vain the whisky bottle was freely tendered; glass after glass disappeared, but human consciousness retained its perceptive faculties as vividly as ever. To refuse compliance with his duty would have lowered Mr. Easy in the estimation of his infe- riors, and suggest imputations on his courage. No, it was necessary for him. as Mrs. Chick has it, to " make an effort." Mr. Gurrie took his position upon the scaffold, and after a mo- mentary preparation, Mr. Easy, bareheaded and barefooted, with a halter not around his neck, but under his arms passed through the open gangway and joined him. " Now, my boy, don't be afraid," said Mr. Gurrie in his gruff way. " Keep cool, for I can hold you till you are black and blue. Does the knot hurt your back ? If it's too tight, say so, and I'll alter it." Mr. Easy sprang lightly upon the fall, slid rapidly down, and in a moment was kneeling upon the whale's back, with the huge iron hook in his hands, endeavoring to thrust it into the hole prepared for its reception. Before he could accomplish this, a sea broke over and washed him off. " Catch the iron ! Catch the iron !" shouted a dozen voices as he struggled in the water to regain his position. This he succeeded in doing, and again renewed his efforts ; but when he would almost ef- fect his object, the combing of a sea would compel him to grasp the iron for support, and thus he would lose all he had gained. Once more he was washed off, and again he grasped the harpoon, but this time it failed him ; loosened and bent it drew from its hold, and soon Perilous Position. 63 disappeared ; he was now swimming and struggling in Vain to re- gain a footing upon the whale ; but it would be easier to scale a pre- cipice than, unaided, to have climbed that smooth convex surface, perpetually in motion. " Quick ! be quick, Mr. Grasper ! the iron's drawn ; throw another !" cried the captain. With a hop, skip, and a jump, that officer snatched one from the carpenter's bench, and with a ferocious expression of countenance hove it w r ith all his might, and buried it to the socket in the whale's back. But his assistance came too late ; before Mr. Easy could reach it, a huge sea lifted him over between the whale and the ship, and buried them both in its foam. Most of us looked aghast, think- ing him crushed ; and seeing him drawn up apparently lifeless by Mr. Gurrie, I felt that my worst fears were realized, or at least that he was seriously injured. A privileged crowd gathered around him, and upon this occasion I was one of the number. He was stunned by the shock, and I was at first apprehensive bleeding would be ne- cessary. A couple of officers carried him aft, where he soon revived, though unfit for duty during the remainder of the day. " Don't give up the whale," thought Captain Buck. " Come, John, down you go !" This was addressed to our friend John the Scotch boat-steerer, who came next in rank, as he steered the mate's boat. But John was wide-awake to his own interests, and any appeals to his ambi- tion or sense of duty he would offset by the argument before him ; although the " mountain-dew" under other circumstances would have proved a most acceptable beverage, he was now firm enough to resist its allurements, and his excuses terminated with a flat refusal. Tom, an American boat-steerer attached to the waist boat, and who, like old John, vvas an experienced hand, was next called upon, but he too muttered something about " asking impossibilities," and " sided" with his companion. I could not help thinking that the whole was a grand exhibition for our young aspirants to whaling honors. There was but one boat-steerer remaining, and that was Jim Hussy, a Canadian. Smart and active, he was always at his post in any emergency. 64 " Reef -Roving s in the South Seas. " Come, Jim ! what d'ye say ?" said Mr. Grasper, slapping him on the shoulder. " Go down there and hook on, and shame those cow- ards. Will you go?" 'Go? Yes, to the devil, if you want me to. I say, steward, stand by to give us a horn." The bottle was passed, and Jim emptied his glass at a draught ; then divesting himself of his shoes, he tied the rope around his waist, and hardly touching the fall, leaped down upon the whale's back. Seizing the hook, he fastened it at the first attempt ; then grasping the harpoon to steady himself against an approaching sea r he bawled out as loudly as he could, " Haul ! you santapedes, haul !" Jim himself was immediately hauled up, but not without a thorough immersion. I cannot attribute his success to superior skill, for JVIr. Easy, who killed the whale, was his senior in years, and more ex- perienced ; but whether indebted to luck or otherwise, he deserved credit, and for a time was quite a lion among the uninitiated. As before remarked, we had all sorts of dispositions, and the senti- ments pertaining to actors in greater events were displayed on this occasion ; for how often is it in every-day life that we see a meri- torious act, when it comes under the cognizance of envy, distorted and perverted from its true meaning, while that amiable quality en- deavors to persuade itself that either the author's motives were selfish, or the deed the result of some fortuitous circumstance ! Al- though a cruel humiliation to John and Tom, they had no right to rob Jim of his laurels ; -and their sarcastic allusions to drunkenness and insanity were unheeded by the mass. But time is too precious to waste in idle comment ; so, leaving Donald and Jonathan to their mutual consolations, I must hasten to the brakes. How surprisingly hard they worked as blanket-piece after blanket-piece ascended to the main yard ! Two or three debu- tants attempted a song, but they all proved abortions, and failed miserably. I will here explain, for the benefit of those unacquainted with the profession, a few terms that must necessarily occur. After the hook has been fastened to the blubber, the captain, or whoever may have that duty assigned him, commences cutting about a foot on either side of the hook, and as he cuts, the men heave slowly at the brakes, Explanation of Professional Terms. 65 while the fish is gradually turning. Having hoisted the strip nearly to the main yard, one of the officers, (in the instance before us, Mr. Gur- rie,) with a two-edged pike, plunges into the strip of blubber, and cuts a circular hole about a foot in diameter. Through this the bight of a rope is passed and toggled, then attached to a tackle overhead. This being done, the strip is severed immediately above the toggle, and by the aid of guys, is swung over the main hatchway. This is called a " blanket-piece," and is lowered to the between-decks, which, together with the space appertaining, constitutes the " blubber- room," and the process is repeated until every blanket-piece has been safely deposited. They are then cut up into square pieces, called "horse-pieces," of convenient size for tossing, by persons sent below for that purpose, a task usually devolving upon the laggards. After a sufficient quantity of horse-pieces have been provided, the work of boiling commences. The carpenter is stationed near the tryworks with a mincing-knife and block, and as he needs them, calls out " Horse-pieces." These are tossed from the hold with pikes, where, by similar implements, they are thrown into a heap near the mincing-tub. The boiler in his turn calls out " Mincing- pieces," and there are always supernumeraries ready to obey the requisition. After boiling sufficiently to extract the oil, they are removed from the kettles with a large skimmer. These are called " scraps," and are laid in a pile, to be used as fuel. The oil is then baled out into a large copper cooler, which is lashed to the tryworks, preparatory to being stowed below in casks. It may be as well to add, that the process of boiling, once commenced, con- tinues day and night; and during seasons when the fish are plenti- ful, there are few occupations more laborious than whaling. But to return. Our skipper was cast in the mould of perseve- rance ; instead of a single blanket-piece, as predicted by some, we fairly stripped the carcass ; but the head, with its rich store of spermaceti, we could not save, and with its loss vanished our antici- pations of iA r ory teeth and " scrimshoning." Before cutting adrift from it, I had a good view of its " square" head, and long, narrow jaw, armed with its white teeth, and pendent in the water. The sea in our vicinity was literally covered with albatrosses, boobies, petrels, and other oceanic birds, giving a lively effect to the scene. Some 66 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. bold bird would dart at the carcass almost beneath the spade, and tearing off a portion with its sharp beak, would fly away, to be in his turn pounced upon by his fellows, while their harsh, discordant cries mingled with the shrill piping of the gale. Having cut adrift, we wore round, and scudded away under reefed topsails. It blew too hard to think of lighting fires that night, and all our efforts were directed towards clearing up ship. Ashes were scattered upon deck for security of footing, and all superfluous lumber was stowed away in some nook or other. Before nightfall we had the satisfaction of seeing the Planet in tolerable order, and heartily wearied with our day's work, we sought refuge in our bunks, to await the events of the morrow. CHAPTER X. "BILIN* OUT," AND ITS INCIDENTS. THE morrow came, and with it an abatement of the gale, where- upon preparations were made accordingly. Many were the mu- tual congratulations among the officers at their good fortune. Mr. Grasper, with arms akimbo and an air of martyrdom, declared that, " for his part, he didn't care whether they took oil enough to fill cabin and all, for he could stow himself away in the maintop." Mr. Gurrie, too, professed himself perfectly willing to " give bedding and bunk a free passage over the fore-sheet, if necessary ;" while Messrs. Short and Easy reverently nodded their heads in ap- proval. Such a mustering of old garments ! Complete " tarring down" suits, and " jumpers" greasy with age, were forthcoming ; and then, indeed, for the first, and for some of us the last time, we indulged in the realities of whaling. The carpenter was at the block with his knife, and the boat-steerers mustered around the boiling apparatus. Folger'and Weasle, spade in hand, were sent below to the blubber- room, and a requisite number were stationed near the hatchway to A Victim to Persecution. 67 pitch horse-pieces, and others to pass them to the boiler, after they had been minced. Some three or four of us had the bitterest pill to digest, (so thought I at the time,) for, with sleeves rolled up to our elbows, with hand-brushes we scrubbed the " gurry" from the bul- warks with lye. Captain Buck bustled about with great officious- ness, and I give him credit for being versed in all the mysteries of his profession. The starting of a hoop or the removal of a stave must be done with precision ; like a skilful general, his glance was everywhere. There was no use in Mr. Grasper endeavoring to look fierce that day, or assuming any of his terrific scowls, for in almost every instance he broke down, and usually wound up his abortive attempts at severity with one of his dry jokes. Before we were fairly under way, I recollect seeing Chips, who had served an apprenticeship as supernumerary in one of our theatres, and whose personifications of I ago, or the victim of Bos- worth Field, would frequently distract him in the midst of his occu- pation, go to the " comings" of the hatch and exclaim, as he stared down with a haughty look at Folger, his inveterate enemy " What ! will the aspiring blood of Lancaster Sink in the ground 1 I thought it would have mounted." Folger brandished his spade for an instant, and I thought he would have thrown it ; but better counsel prevailed, for a moment after, he plunged it more fiercely than ever into the greasy mountain before him, cutting away indiscriminately to the right and left, with- out regard to the proportion of his horse-pieces, until poor Weasle fled aghast ; and well he might, for. in less than ten minutes Folger was assisted upon deck with a frightful gash in his right foot, so that he was hors du combat for the lime. The spade, like the adze, is a dangerous implement in the hands of an inexperienced person, and should be used with the utmost caution. One circumstance alone, .of almost daily occurrence, served to keep Mr. Folger's antip- athy green in his memory, and that was, the partiality of the car- penter for his services to aid him in sharpening his tools ; this being countenanced by Mr. Grasper, he never resumed his positi'on at the crank of the grindstone without vowing vengeance, while the rapidity 68 Reef-Ravings in the South Seas. of its revolutions, an index to his sentiments, frequently called forth an encomium from his tormentor. The work of boiling commenced. Thick volumes of smoke roll- ing upwards, gave the Planet's drapery a dingy hue, an - * - - j^f/' mw^- || |w;| | 1 1 HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. ADVENTURES IN LAHAINA. LAHAINA, the principal town of Maui, and the second of import- ance in the kingdom, is pleasantly situated on the leeward side of West Maui, so called from its resemblance to a distinct island, being connected with East Maui by a low isthmus nearly level with the sea. From the roadstead, it having no harbor, there is something pecu- liarly attractive in its appearance, owing to its favorable contrast to the sterile mountains in the background, rising from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea. Like, as it were, an oasis in the desert, it ex- tends for nearly two miles along the shore, a luxuriant garden, hav- ing an average breadth of nearly half a mile. The site of the town is perfectly level, with a slight elevation above the sea. In the rear, and on either side, there is hardly tree or shrub to relieve the barren aspect. Among its conspicuous objects is the long two-story wooden building with a verandah running around it, and designated " The Palace," but which, to do his majesty justice, he never deigns to notice during his visits to Lahaina. The fort, occupying a central position, is a parallelogram, built of coral blocks, about twelve feet in height, and mounting a few rusty guns of various calibre on its ramparts, which are patrolled by sen- tinels in ventilated uniforms. The native church, a two-story build- ing, and neatly whitewashed, is also conspicuous, with its red roof 94 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. and steeple, surrounded by bread-fruit, cocoanut, and kukui trees, (Aleurites triloba.) The stores and dwellings of foreign residents, scattered along the shore, form a pleasing contrast to the grass houses of the natives, situated amid groves, and grouped near the water's edge. In the rear, at a much greater elevation, and some- what to the right, two deep valleys give a pleasing effect to the landscape, their sides clothed with a dense growth of trees and underwood, and their bottoms watered by streams foaming over rocky beds, irrigating the inclined plane to a considerable extent, until ab- sorbed by the thirsty soil. During the rainy season, they become torrents, and empty into the sea. On the mountain-side to the left, the white mission residences of Lahainaluna, with the steepled Seminary, afford an agreeable relief to the eye ; beyond, the moun- tain summits are clothed with forest, and frequently enveloped in clouds. The soil of Lahaina has a reddish tinge, and is of clayey consistency. According to the seasons, it is alternately dry and muddy ; and during the summer months, when there is a long absence of rain, the whirlwinds that come sweeping down the valleys carry the dust in clouds far out to sea. With all its inconveniences, Lahaina is a most inviting spot to look upon after the privations of a sea- voyage. To one who has never before visited Polynesia, there is a novelty and beauty in every- thing the commingling of civilization with semi-barbarism, and the association of native and foreigner. The light and airy cottage that we are accustomed to associate with oak and elm at home, looks none the worse though shaded by the spreading branches of the kou, or for having its garden adorned with exotics, interspersed with the bread- fruit arid cocoa palm. The thatch huts of the natives, sometimes in- closed by adobe walls, ajid surrounded by taro-patches arid the pro- ducts of their industry, have a pleasing appearance ; these, together with the frequently gaudy attire of their inmates, strutting leisurely along, or chanting a mele beneath shady banana groves, lend a pic- turesque effect to the scene. On the 20th April, 1849, I was, like Jack, "all abroad," and, in reverting to the incidents of that period, I have classed them among the happiest of Polynesian reminiscences. Without being frowned upon as an intruder, with duck trowsers and hickory shirt, Native Hospitality. I could initiate myself into all the mysteries of beer-shops and victualling-houses, (deprecating the taste,) and witness the hearty congratulations between the cruisers of New Zealand and those of the Ochotsk seas. It was during this interesting period that I made myself fully acquainted with the domestic economy of a Hawaiian household, though the taste for pot was subsequently acquired under circumstances of necessity. To trespass upon the subject of family routine, would involve too much prolixity ; suffice it to say, the research should be cautiously ventured, and not unfrequently the result would be anything but nattering to morality. The dress of the males usually consists of the ordinary trowsers and shirt ; but among the wealthier class there is nothing to distinguish their gar- ments, both in quantity and quality, from those of more favored com- munities. The female attire possesses nothing attractive. Without regard to material, whether the embroidered fabrics of China, or the printed cottons from the looms of Fall River, they fashion their robes like loose gowns, with formidable gtgot sleeves, pertinaciously re- jecting any innovation on their established custom. It has been remarked that Hawaiians are proverbial for their hos- pitality ; without combating any encomium upon their virtues, I must observe, that friendship will sometimes degenerate to selfish- ness. Whether from predisposition in my favor, or acting under a momentary impulse, a native, whom I shall call John, saw fit to shoulder himself upon me, inviting confidence by his apparent sin- cerity. He was a good-looking fellow, speaking English with tolera- ble facility ; and having' cruised two or three seasons on the north- west, he believed it his prerogative to inveigle any of the craft, no matter by what means, into an appreciation of his attentions. On his account, I am sorry to add that from me his gleanings were small, for chest I had none, and the small bundle of necessary apparel could never incommode me by its weight. As to shoes, I wore my only pair, and between soles and uppers a struggle had been long going on regarding the propriety of separation. The first object that seriously engaged his attention was a large fancy quilt, and which he suggested was admirably adapted for a curtain of ceremony. I had no great partiality for it, although not insensible to its convenience. During the voyage it had covered a 96 Reef- Roving s in the South Seas. bust of General Cass, which had been presented by a friend the artist who executed it ; but whether typical or not of that states- man's downfall, I found it fractured in several places on my arrival, and with feelings of regret I consigned the relics to a resting-place among the coral reefs of Lahaina. I gave it to him at once. Next, a figured pongee with a dashing border attracted his attention. This he begged for his wife, and it was readily bestowed, for she was a pretty and obliging woman. As his wants increased, my stock di- minished ; and with feelings of alarm, I contemplated the contin- gency of " pitching horse-pieces" in the Arctic. Any hints regard- ing my needy condition for, unfortunately, I had nothing in the shape of a legal tender he would offset with a cozy embrace, informing me that the poi calabash was always at my service. I could eat the taro fresh from the oven, for then there is something agreeable about it ; but, after seeing John, sans culotte, and girded with nothing but a malo, pounding away at it with a stone pestle upon an old board, with the perspiration streaming from his body, my stomach refused to encounter it. Nalimu, his wife, would sometimes oblige me with a bunch of bananas ; and through her influence, we were now and then regaled with the inviting spectacle of a roaster. How- ever, I ultimately effected an arrangement with the proprietor of a victualling-house, thus avoiding the prospect of lingering starvation. It was several days before I ventured to trespass within the pre- cincts of royalty. Crossing a stagnant pool where the " mud-hens" were quarrelling with each other, I sauntered leisurely towards the Palace, expecting to see the royal standard of Hawaii weaving from the balcony, and grooms and pages in livery bustling about with the officiousness of menials. But not a sound came from its deserted halls. Both railings and columns of unmentionable architecture ex- pressed a contempt of paint, having withal a venerable aspect ; the most interesting feature was its plastered walls, whose white- washed surface offered a tempting field for the designs of native artists. Whether original or otherwise, they certainly produced an astonishing effect ; for, without adhering to any particular school of the art, the. dash of coloring (charcoal) was laid on in bold out- line ; and tableaux of animated figures, with explanatory hieroglyph- ics, were grouped about the door-way. At the first glance, the Etchings of the Fine Arts. 97 delineation of a centaur would indicate an acquaintance with mythol- ogy ; but a broad Mexican saddle, with its uncouth stirrups, giving it a modern appearance, made one unable to reconcile the discrep- ancy. At times, there was an approximation to sentiments of a tenderer nature, and amorous designs gave a clue to the propensities of their authors. Appropriate mottoes were frequently subjoined, such as " aloha maikai oe o pua lake" (love to you, my rose,) but again there were characters so unique that it would have required a Cham- pollion to decipher them. I had the temerity to trespass within the portal ; though destitute of ornament, the spacious rooms and solid floors have a substantial appearance. I know of no better place in Lahaina for enjoying the sea-breeze and a commanding prospect, than its balcony or roof. In one of its rooms is held the Police Court ; and the broad hall is occupied by the Circuit Court, during its annual sitting. Of late years, more attention has been paid to its appearance, with reference to wilful mutilation. The walls are sound, and it may yet be rendered an ornament to the town in which it stands. At this time his majesty, Kamehameha III., was visiting Lahaina, and during his sojourn he usually remained at the residence of the Young family, the elite of Hawaiian nobility. He frequently rode out accompanied by his attendants', managing his horse with ease, and had the appearance of being an accomplished equestrian. CHAPTER II. O'CONNOR'S EXPERIENCES. I WAS one day strolling through the bread-fruit grove at the southern extremity of the town, indulging a few consolatory reflections at the expense of that misanthrope, Zimmerman, when I was startled from my revery by a familiar voice singing: " I dug his grave with a silver spade ; ! bullies, ! And I lowered him down with a golden chain, A hundred years ago !" 7 98 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. Immediately after, it changed to, " Hard a-port there, shipmate ! and keep your luff, or you'll be aboard of me." In the direction whence the sound came, I espied the gable of a hut just peeping above a clump of sugar-cane. " Ship ahoy ! Who are you ?" I hailed. " Avast there, doctor ! and heave aback. You are trespassing on my cruising-ground !" returned O'Connor, whom I now recognized. I lost no time in entering the humble portal, and there, stretched out upon a pile of mats in " inglorious ease," was the hero of the donkey ; inhaling at intervals, from a short, stumpy pipe, the aroma of the fragrant weed. He was a shade darker than when we had parted on shipboard, and his costume was a melange of civilization and barbarism. Instead of the striped flannel shirt, he sported a fancy regatta with a flowing collar ; a Turkey red pan, or wrapper, was substituted for duck trowsers. He wore a fragrant necklace of the yellow drupes of the Pandanus odoratissimus, and his head was encircled by a formidable wreath of mountain fern. There were half a dozen dusky belles and beaux in the apartment, reclining upon the soft mats of the lauhala. The whole seemed an apparition of the drowsy tableaux in " Midsummer Night's Dream ;" and I felt like exclaiming with Snout : " Bottom, thou art. changed ! What do I see onthee?' After passing congratulations and comparing notes, O'Connor pro- ceeded to recount a few items of personal adventure that had trans- pired since his escape. " In the first place," said he, " after leaving the fort, I commenced beating about for something to do. I was determined not to reship without a little rustication. So one day I packed up and started off for the other side of the island. A lucky stroke I had my 'pass,' or I should have been arrested a dozen times as a runaway. Well, I forged ahead until I reached the mountain, and here I hove-to for the night; for, you know, it's rulable to make any port in a storm. The next day I commenced climbing over hills and ridges as barren as those of St. Nicholas, and it was a good half day before I reached the desert on the opposite side. I was almost choked, for since morning I had been sweltering in the sun without a smell of any- A Sailor's Expedient. 99 thing to drink, and here I stood on a plain, miles in extent, without a sign of either tree, shrub, or water. I edged along to the sea- shore, and followed the smooth beach for three or four miles, until I reached a little village of dried haystacks. Here I halted for a snack. I bolted into the first house I came to, and made motions to an old woman catching fleas. She handed me a calabash of villanous liquid, that reminded me of a fermented waterbutt ; and if you'll be- lieve me, I had to pay a real before she'd give me a drink of the abominable stuff. " I was lucky in finding a white man, who told me he had lived for years in Wai Wai something, I forget the name, and that he raised potatoes in the mountains, and speculated in horses and cattle for a living. He offered to hire me to drive cart from the diggings to the beach, and as the wages were fair, I signed articles on the spot. I said I was lucky, but 1 believe I was unlucky, for I find I was never cut out for a farmer. D'ye see, the cattle here aint like the cattle at home. In the first place, I had to have native boys to tackle 'em for me, and then, you know, I can't talk a word of Kana- ker, (the only language they understand,) so that when I said ' port" and 'starboard,' I might as well have whistled to the wind. Things went on in a fair way until the fifth day. I was driving a cart-load of ' spuds' down the mountain, for the haystacks, and when about half way, the starboard beast got huffy, and began to make leeway ; so, thinks I, my lad, I'll just clap a stopper on to your cutwater, and bring you to. I took out a coil of rope I always carried in the cart, and made a running bowline, which I tried to throw over his nose. Some how or other they both got wind of the game, and with tails triced up as taught as martingales, they started down hill like a pair of 'fin-backs.' They went as if the devil had 'em, and the old cart bounded over the rocks, scattering ' scurvy pills' all the way ! They must have shaped their course by compass, for they kept the track, and I watched them until they looked no bigger than a pair of sucking calves. D'ye think I followed ? Not I. I jumped onto a rock, swung my tarpaulin, and sung that good old song ' ! storm along ! ! my roving blades, storm along, stormy !' " My farming jig was up. I squared yards with the old fellow, and 100 ' Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. bore away for this port. I arrived four days ago : went down and shipped aboard the , bound for the Arctic ; got an advance, and I'm living it out. I rent this house, I do, and these squaws and Kanakas are my hired servants. A man must live a little while, you know. In less than three months I shall be on the nor'west, chas- ing 'bowheads' in the fog, and up to my eyes in 'gurry.' But never mind, a man's all right if he can only keep a * shot in the locker.' " O'Connor was a good sample of the reckless roisterly sailor. Free and easy, at the same time prepared for any emergency, the impudence that would prompt him to tweak the fur hood of an Es- quimaux belle, relapsed into a sentiment of unqualified self-assurance, while paying court to the less circumspect charmers of the Southern Isles. We gossipped together for an hour or more ; and on shaking hands, wished each other " so-'long," with the same levity and indif- ference that characterized our first meeting on shipboard. Sailors, of all classes, are least disposed to brood over severed friendships, whether transient or permanent. Two days after, he sailed, and I have neither seen nor heard of him since. CHAPTER III. A LAWYER ABROAD. AMOXG the guests of the victualling-house, I noticed a person of perhaps five-and-twenty, whose seedy attire accorded so well with my own unpretending habiliments of blue drilling, that, after a little random conversation, a mutual feeling of sympathy began to germinate, and we were drawn together by the intuitive perception inherent in " birds of a feather." Allaire, my newly-found acquaintance, wore a " pepper-and-salt" frock-coat of undeniable antiquity, which hung around him like loose drapery, with the exception of the sleeves ; these were so tight that the elbows, by urging a continued remonstrance, had effected a Airs. K.~ -Shampooing. 101 compromise. His lustreless cravat of black silk, notwithstanding the climate, was girded tightly around his neck to the chin, and the frayed extremities of a calico shirt-collar occasionally struggled for an existence above it. His pants, of threadbare doeskin, seemed a redeeming feature. A dilapidated beaver or broad-brimmed Pana- ma was usually adjusted several inches in advance of the facial angle. He had a peculiar gait, wiry and elastic, as if treading upon springs, the right shoulder hitched up, while the other was correspondingly depressed. He was an Englishman, and, with all his oddities, was qualified by birth and education to move in a higher sphere of social relations than that into which the chances of adventure had thrown him. He had, I think, obtained a degree at the college from which he gradu- ated, besides receiving the diploma of jurisprudence ; and with safety it may be added, that, at the time of which I am writing, but few persons in the kingdom could boast of higher literary attain- ments than Mr. Allaire. Strange to add, he had reached the Islands about six months previous, on a Yankee whaler. At his request, I removed, with the few relics of the " slop-chest" I still retained, to his residence. It was a medium-sized grass house, situated in the vicinity of the Palace, owned and occupied by a huge female named Kai-hu-nui, whose blood gave her a sort of precedence over the fag-end of Hawaiian nobility. She had a charming little protege named La-ni (Heaven), about twelve years of age, full of roguish mirth, and whose cheerful disposition seemed to neutralize the acerbity of her surly godmother. Though Allaire had rented one- half the house, (the line of demarkation being a fancy calico curtain,) the old Hecate always looked upon me as a vagabond interloper, without ever deigning me a grunt of civility. In future pages I shall probably have occasion to speak of sham- pooing, or Lomilomi-'mg, but never again of the manner in which I have seen it practised upon her. Mrs. K would extend herself upon the mats, face downward ; after which, a powerful man would elevate himself upon her back, and pace up and down her spine with the measured tread of a wire-dancer. This she esteemed a luxury, and it was a favorite remedy on occasions of indigestion. In disposition she was selfish. I could never leave a bunch of I 102 Reef -Roving s in the South Seas. cigars, or other trophies of a foraging expedition, upon the table in our apartment, without finding them more than decimated on my return. Whenever, during my peregrinations, I could filch a wreath of flowers, and afterwards present it to the pretty Lani, she would knit her formidable brows, and utter in a deep " primo basso," " Nana KELA haole /" equivalent to, " Mercy ! what impudence !" The furniture of our apartment was simple enough : at one ex- tremity was a dais for sleeping ; it was covered with mats, and, save- two or three quilts and pillows, there were no other pretensions to bedding. Allaire had a little rickety trunk in one corner, filled pro- miscuously with newspapers, pamphlets, (he was an assistant editor,) and clothing. The table, of liberal dimensions, was innocent of covering. Here were scattered manuscripts, briefs, books, plugs of tobacco, with sheath-knife for cutting, and an indefinite quantity of pens, pipes, and the minor requirements of a literary dilettante. Among the tomes, I noticed, in neat calf binding, the " Hawaiian Stat- ute Laws," " Peregrine Pickle," an odd volume of the " Edinburgh Quarterly," and a dozen others equally acceptable to a pair of loit- erers. By far the most significant object was a pile of empty Cologne bottles in one corner of the apartment ; and I could not repress the natural inquiry as to what he had done with his barber pole. " You must know," said Allaire, " that a sign is not always an indi- cation of occupation. Necessity may compel a man to swallow home-brewed malt, though at the same time he would evince a de- cided preference for Cognac. Ergo, as our statutes impose a duty of five dollars per gallon on imported liquors, containing four per cent, alcohol, our Galens wriggle over it by augmenting their stock of per- fumery and cosmetics, including, eau de Cologne, superior Baywater, Ambrosia, et cetera. These we purchase ad libitum, and, after im- bibing the essence of ideality, in the shape of peppermint and win- tergreen, we soar away to Olympus amid an atmosphere of bergamot and rosemary. Whatever might have been Allaire's propensity in this respect, there was no manifestation of it in my presence. His " nippers," if he indulged, were taken abroad. We often strolled out together, lounging through the groves, and initiating ourselves into the mys- teries of domestic economy. A six months' sojourn had not been un- An Evening Adventure. 103 improved by Allaire, and, in nautical phraseology, he " knew the ropes." One evening he inquired of me whether I was familiar with botany. " What do you mean ?" " Simply, whether you are acquainted with the appearance, prop- erties, and legitimate uses of the plant Dracona terminalis, or Awa?" I replied, that my knowledge of it was limited to a brief botanical description ; and that I was aware its root was used by the natives of the Pacific Isles for manufacturing an intoxicating beverage. " Well, then," said my Mentor, "just put on your hat and favor me with your company this evening. Ah ! I had nearly forgotten. I think it advisable we adjust our bedding, by way of anticipation !" Little Laiii looked archly at us as we left the house, and, shaking her finger, said : " Ua iki au ko olua hcle ana" (I know where you are going.) " HecC ka hewa" (what of it) ? returned Allaire, laughingly, as he closed the door. After leaving the house, he guided me by a route I had never been, through a forest of cocoanut and kukui trees, cane jungles, and, what was worse than all, over the unavoidable margins of " taro-patches," where a false step would have precipitated us into the " slough of despond." Lights were gleaming at intervals through the groves ; and as if these were insufficient, the barking of dogs announced our proximity to thatch homesteads. We soon entered upon a well- trodden path through a banana grove, which conducted us to a habitation, where, through the chinks of the door, we saw a light burning, and, from the sound of voices, inferred that a goodly com- pany was assembled. Without knocking, we entered, and Allaire was recognized by all, to judge from the storm of salutations that followed. My estimate as to the quantity and quality of the assemblage had not been prema- ture. There were present more than a dozen natives of both sexes, old and young, indulging in a lively gossip. The group that first riveted our attention was that occupying the centre of the 104 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. apartment. Here were half a dozen young girls, some of them in deshabille, sitting upon the mats around a huge calabash, each girl having a small bunch of awa roots beside her, portions of which all were chewing. After reducing it to a pulpy consistency between their beautifully white teeth, they would toss it into the large cala- bash, while their mouths were relieved from superfluous secretions by a smaller vessel placed for the purpose Though ostensibly engaged in conversation, it was evident that the sentiments of the old folks were in the large calabash, to judge from the longing glances cast upon it. I noticed a venerable-looking in- dividual, (his only attire a malo,) who leaned complacently against the centre post, and watched intently his heart's delight. Allaire, after firing a shot here and there, proceeded to comment upon the subject before us. " You observe," said he, " that in preparing the root as it should be, recourse is had to none but mouths of unquestionable purity. Albeit the lips are voluptuous, the rosy cavity, with its appendage of immaculate ivory, is a model of mastication ; and as to lungs, their breath is as pure as the atmosphere they inhale. The effect of the beverage prepared from the root is 1 peculiar. After drinking it, you should retire to some quiet spot where you can repose undisturbed, with your head moderately elevated ; and the dreams of an opium- smoker cannot surpass the pleasing reveries that will flit through your cranium. Its continued use affects the skin, causing it to peel off. To notice the epidermis of some of these lank gentry w T ho have been long indulging, reminds one of a snake during moulting season. Of course, I speak as an ' outsider.' You shall 1 see for yourself presently." Knowing that the preparation of the root was tabooed, or prohibited, I was surprised to see a young man present who sported a red band on his hat, one of the insignia of a constable, and I sought an ex- planation. " Let me again impress upon your mind that there is no kingdom in the world where appearances are more deceptive than in this. That fellow yonder is no more a constable than I am. His mother has probably been making a red flannel-shirt for his father, and by way of coaxing him to weed the taro-patch, she has condescend- Native Bacchanals. 105 ingly sewed the trimmings upon his cap. Gold bands, you have probably noticed, are the rage among all classes and colors ; but don't deceive yourself into the belief that they are criterions of rank, for the king's jockey sports a broader one than his majesty." Our colloquy was interrupted by an exclamation from some of the girls of "Ua pdu kekou /" (we have done,) meaning that they had finished. A stout native then approached the calabash of masticated roots, and half filled it with water from a smaller vessel. After this, he rolled up his sleeve and commenced kneading the mass with his hand until the liquid assumed the appearance of soap-suds. Then, from the inner fibre of a cocoanut husk, he fashioned a sort of bird's- nest funnel, which was to serve the double purpose of purifier and strainer, and holding it over one of the small drinking vessels, he poured the liquid into it as it filtered slowly through, while the minute particles or impurities adhered to the strainer. The drinking vessels consisted of glass tumblers, earthen bowls, cocoanut shells, and small gourds. As fast as they were filled, they were handed to the company, who received them with undisguised satisfaction. Allaire appropriated one of the gourds, and gave me a glassful of the opaque liquid, insisting that I should drink it. I moistened my lips, and returned the repulsive mixture. " Chew the root, man, and you'll find the beverage more pal- atable." I did as directed, and Was agreeably surprised to find that it had a pungent, aromatic flavor, leaving in the mouth a sensation similar to that produced by chewing cinnamon or cloves. I then drained the contents of the glass, (the first and only time I ever drank awa,) and waited patiently for the result. Meanwhile, the old man continued to ladle out the contents of his vegetable punch-bowl, with all the officiousness of a master of cere- monies. Allaire, I think, drank two gourds of it. The grimaces of the old folks, as they sipped from their delectable goblets, were sug- gestive of a domestic tea and knitting-work party. Its influence was speedily manifested upon some of the girls, who assumed a variety of attitudes, and commenced a hura, or chant, that will not admit of description. The young man with the red band, after a few oratorical gestures, seized a large poi calabash, and with 106 Recf-Rovings in the South Seas. a stone pestle commenced a series of spiritual rappings. As for me, I could never perceive, from that time to this, that I was in the slightest degree affected by it. But Allaire, whose libations had been copious, soon began to manifest symptoms peculiar to persons who are " three sheets in the wind ;" that is, eyelids drooped, nether jaw slightly ajar, while the head lacked stability of position, giving to his physiognomy an air of innocent stupidity, as much as to say, " Oh, don't be afraid ; it's only me !" Presently he raised the empty gourd, and poising it gracefully upon the extremities of his fingers, and emphasizing each word, said : " Doc. ! permit me to say to you, in the language of the immortal Swiveller, * May the wing of friendship never moult a feather ! ' (Here succeeded a fit of nodding.) I intend bringing forward seve- ral interesting cases at the next session of Cupid's court." He continued giving birth to his incoherent wit, interesting only to the brain that conceived it, and the more ludicrous as he after- wards attempted to lick it into shape. It was past nine when we returned the salutations of the dusky bacchanals. The night was dark and cloudy, and Allaire, who pre- served his equilibrium in a wonderful degree, voluntarily took the lead to pilot me through a labyrinth of trees and taro-patches. I grew nervous as we approached the deceitful margins of the latter. He was several paces in advance, and 1 barely discernible in the obscurity. Suddenly I heard a plunge, followed immediately by a terrible floundering. Cautiously I reached the spot, and to my dis- may saw my quondam pilot immersed to his neck in a pool of muddy water, and clutching nervously at a clump of sugar-cane that grew on the brink. "Just in time, Doc.," said Allaire. "I'm trying to decline the esculent noun arum, (taro,) and I want your assistance." I pulled him out, and in doing so, received a liberal coating of the black mud with which he was completely covered. We then kept close together, and proceeding more cautiously, reached our quarters without further adventure. ******* Five years have flitted imperceptibly by, five seasons of buoyant Reflections on the Past. 107 hopes and darkening sorrows, to leave their indelible impress upon the brief span of human endurance ; and yet, barely a point in time, insignificant as the thistle-down that floats upon eddying winds, when thrown into the great cycle of eternity. Old friendships, hal- lowed by endearing associations, have been rudely severed, and new ones cemented. Scenes of joy and gladness, and a host of bygones, fling around us a halo of soothing memories to charm for a moment, ere, dim and lustreless, they pale before the stalking phantoms of reality. Poor Allaire ! His is a coral tomb in tranquil depths, where myriads of tiny architects have woven a fairy grot of crystal corymbs and arborescent branches. Restless surges, forever dashing against rocky barriers, fling o'er him a snowy winding-sheet, and moan an eternal dirge. From broken storm-clouds that whirl around summits of the ev- erlasting mountains have issued solemn voices. Though, like " deep calling unto deep," mysterious tones have trembled through their dark labyrinths, and fearful spirits have ridden forth upon the blast, he will sleep securely upon his azure bed until a Mightier breathes upon the troubled ocean. Another has gone. Breezes of refreshing coolness rustle through the palm groves, and beneath shady canopies, where the dark and glossy leaves of the breadfruit intermingle with the silvery foliage of the candlenut, happy groups are twining garlands. Starry night looks down upon the sleeping landscape ; mountain, valley and grove are blended in silent shadows, and hearts are throbbing. A wail of human woe swells upon the midnight air, then dies away in tearful cadence, and lights flash dimly amid the gloom. Above scenes of terrestrial brightness, a spirit hovers now it wings its way to the starry vault. From dark valleys creeps the night- wind, sighing mournfully among the ferns, and whispering through leafy branches ; until, across mountain heath, through wild ravines, o'er the moaning sea, and amid fragrant groves, we hear the mystic 108 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. voices of the spirit-legion mingle with the gale saying, " We live forever." Four years have passed since the little Lani was laid to rest. The seasons roll round. Joyous sunlight gladdens the heart, and dew-drops sparkle upon the " opening blossoms of the ohia ;" but the rain-cloud weeps upon the mourning plumes of the pandanus, and night-winds sigh among the bleak hills of Kaa-na-pa-li. CHAPTER IV, ROYAL YACHT KAMEHAMEHA. HOWEVER agreeable it may be to indulge the propensity for loung- ing, something substantial is required to support it. The beauty of a cocoanut-tree is in nowise enhanced when one is compelled to re- sort to the tedious process of climbing to obtain the fruit. I stumbled across three of my shipmates, who asked my advice ; of course I recommended industry, and read them a chapter on the folly of idle- ness. Two of them shipped for another cruise, but the third turned his attention to digging potatoes somewhere in the Kula district. J have omitted to mention that the epidemic for emigration to the recently discovered gold placers of California had extended to Hawaii, and that there was a consequent dearth of foreign population in Lahaina and other towns ; though a month previous I would have bound myself that my aspirations should not extend beyond a resting- place on terra firma, at the end of that period notions of beauty had become vapid, and tropical fascinations were at a discount. The beautiful yacht Kamehameha was at that time making regu- lar trips between Honolulu and Lahaina, and one day I determined to embark and have a peep at the capital. Packets plying between the two ports usually get under way about two o'clock in the afternoon, and long before that hour the shore in the vicinity of the boat canal is lined with natives ; some of them, passengers encum- bered with calabashes containing food and raiment, and others, Peculiarities of a Hawaiian Packet. 1 09 friends come to say farewell ; but by far the greater portion are idlers and hangers-on, who, having nothing else to do, prowl about precisely as loafers would around the docks of a city. Boats ply between the schooner and shore to convey passengers and luggage. If there be little or no surf, it is attended without inconvenience ; but when the opposite is the case, the boat requires careful watching by an experienced crew to avoid being capsized in the breakers, to say nothing of a drenching. When I arrived on board, I found the crew heaving at the wind- lass, the mainsail having already been hoisted. The boat was still in requisition ; and this, together with canoes discharging their freights on deck, lent animation to the scene. It was a Babel of noise and confusion. There were pigs, poultry, and old women huddled promiscuously together ; I noticed a silver-haired ma- tron, with a full-grown dog in her arms, (a parody on the pugs of fashion,) expostulating with some one in a canoe about the ownership of a calabash. Some of the fairer portion had left the adjustment of difficulties to their lords, and spreading their mats, had taken up positions on the quarter-deck, where they were sporting parasols and bright yellow leis, or wreaths of the lauhala, (pandanus.) The for- eigners on these occasions chiefly remain aft, having the monopoly of the cabin, but many prefer sleeping on deck, as the heat below is oppressive. Akoni, the well-known Hawaiian mariner, was our commander, a good-natured and competent person; but like most natives, the idea of discipline and respect never entered his head, and I have seen him devouring cuttle-fish with his cook, with the same familiarity that characterized feasting with his passengers. In due season the order was given, and the anchor "peaked." Coming gracefully around, the " Kammey" caught the breeze on the larboard tJtk, and though light, we made good progress through the water, for she was a fast sailer. In our rear was the barren island of Kahulawe, and on our right the rugged peaks of Maui ; La-inai loomed on the left, while in front were the densely-wooded ravines and cloud-capped summits of Molokai. With a freshening breeze, we dashed along, until Lahaina seemed but a narrow strip of verdure fringing the base of a barren mountain ; and gradually as we opened the broad channel between Maui and Molokai, we caught the full 110 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. force of the trades that sometimes sweep through these inter-island passages with the fury of a tempest. Without reducing sail, we scudded rapidly before it, and while others were chatting and laugh- ing, I was watching the novelty and beauty of the scenery. But familiarity begets indifference, and during subsequent passages I have found more agreeable entertainment in noticing incidents of character than indulging poetic abstractions. Not the least interesting spectacle was to witness their prepara- tions for supper, a duty which usually devolves on the old men. Young cocoanuts and melons, before unnoticed, now made their ap- pearance, and the sennit lashings of huge calabashes were unfastened and their contents investigated. Fishes, that looked as though they had been embalmed for at least a century, made to native eyes a tempting display beside the everlasting poi, and large lumps of the forbidden flesh resembled miniature islands in calabashes of salt and water. There were famished-looking dogs that took up positions favorable for observation, and maintained an equilibrium despite the rolling of the vessel. Any person who has ever seen a Hawaiian at his meals, and noticed the dexterous manner in which he twirls the glutinous mass around his fingers and conveys it to his mouth, and heard the hearty smack that follows, can never for an instant entertain a doubt of his sincerity. No unnecessary delay is occa- sioned by formalities, and their meals are soon dispatched and everything snugly secured, after which they laugh, joke, and chant their meles. Before sunset, we had passed Lahaina, and the low, barren portion of Molokai, stretching out towards the west, was on our right. As the broad disk was resting upon the horizon, its farewell rays lit up a strange but touching scene. Every head was uncovered, every whisper hushed, and the voice of prayer ascended in the%till even- ing. Nothing could be more appropriate than for hearts of sincerity to offer up their humble acknowledgments to their Creator under the broad canopy of heaven. But these devotions are of lale years omitted ; deteriorating influences have begotten more the fear of worldly contempt than reverence for spiritual duty. Their preparations for sleep occasion them no inconvenience. Mats are spread and kiheis unfolded ; laughing and joking, they Noble and Plebeian Distinctions. Ill good-humoredly lie down upon the hard deck, both sexes, old and young, huddled promiscuously together. Sometimes the deck of a schooner is completely encumbered ; and occasionally during the night, when looking at the prostrate sleepers with their heads cov- ered, I have seen a solitary form arise and commence a silent attack upon the calabashes. We had with us a chief and his wife from Hawaii, who, with their attendants, monopolized the long-boat, and whom the plebeians around looked upon with reverence. Her grace was portly, and had a haughty manner of intimating her wishes. The boat was lined with soft beds and counterpanes, be- sides containing other articles conducive to comfort. Two or three female attendants paid attention to umbrella, fan, and spittoon, while his lordship appeared to be a nonentity. There is, perhaps, no na- tion where the distinction between noble and plebeian is more strongly defined than among the Hawaii ans. The former are char- acterized by corpulency or powerful proportions and a majestic gait ; while the latter, according to our taste, are more agile and delicate, possessing their peculiar beauty in a greater degree than their supe- riors. Some one hinted to her ladyship that I had a miniature which had been fortunately saved from the wreck of personal prop- erty, and as she expressed a desire to look at it, I handed it to her. After closely scrutinizing the face, coloring, and more especially the embossed case, she returned it, observing, in a primo basso tone, " Maikai, likapu he wahine maole" which a bystander was kind enough to interpret, " Good ! it resembles a native woman." With- out comment on her taste, I thanked her for the compliment, wonder- ing that I had never before detected the affinity between Saxon and Polynesian beauty. Accepting the invitation, I shared the mat and kihei of one of the natives, who are generally kind and hospitable, expecting a similar return ; and yet it is remarkable that in their language they have no word expressive of either thanks or gratitude. On one oc- casion, while going from Honolulu to Lahaina, we had rough weather, and the spray was continually dashing aboard, causing such as were unprovided to shiver with the cold. I gave my blankets to an old woman crouched down near the companionway, who, looking up, simply remarked, " Lokomaikai oe" (you are generous.) 112 Eeef-Rovings in the South Seas. CHAPTER V. HONOLULU. As soon as it was light, the barren mountains of Oahu were in sight, looking if anything more sterile than those of West Maui ; but they were relieved by the bright verdure that seemed nestling in the valleys and sometimes creeping along their ridges. There was lit- tle or no wind, and for a short time we were becalmed off Diamond Head. This is an extinct crater, and its peculiar formation, with its stratified cliffs rising from the plains of Waikiki, renders it a con- spicuous landmark for vessels approaching Honolulu. It was nine o'clock before we caught a light breeze, and the water being clear as crystal, the most delicate formations of coral could be distinctly traced on the bottom as we glided along. Waikiki, with its exten- sive cocoanut grove, was on our right, and the broad plain of Hono- lulu and the smiling valley of Nuuanu were every moment becoming more distinct. As we approached nearer, I was agreeably disa-p- pointed in the appearance of the town, it being much larger and more regularly laid out than I had anticipated. Few vessels were in the harbor, but these, anchored near the temporary wharves, gave an air of business to the scene, which was enhanced by the appearance of the substantial warehouses clustering near them. The passage through the reef is somewhat intricate ; but it has been carefully buoyed, and with a commanding breeze, vessels may enter and depart without difficulty, the breakers rolling in sheets of foam on either side. The harbor is small, and I have seen it filled with shipping, which also obstructed the passage, while a number of vessels for want of room had anchored, and were lying off and on outside the reef. The " Kammey" worked like a top, and by ten o'clock she was snugly moored in the lagoon, and boats and canoes were waiting to convey passengers to the shore. By invitation, I took up my abode at the " Hotel de France," a clean-looking building, with a comfort- able verandah and a yard well shaded by trees. Having frequently visited Honolulu during the last few years, it An "Island City" described. 113 may be well to notice it more particularly, to avoid repetition here- after ; although, from its intimate association with California, there are thousands to whom a recapitulation of what they have seen will be of little interest. Like San Francisco, it has made gigantic strides in improvement, and become a city. The stranger who promenades its streets, but for the distant landscape, would fancy himself at home, or what would come nearer the truth, in an English or Ameri- can colony. The town, with all its neatness, has some irregularities in the ar- rangement of its streets, which, instead of crossing at right angles, sometimes intersect each other diagonally, forming triangular and ir- regular lots. A few of them are inconveniently narrow. The prin- cipal is Main Street, a broad thoroughfare bisecting the town through its entire length, stretching away to Pearl River on the west, and to the plains of Waikiki on the east. This is crossed at right angles by Nuuanu Street ; commencing at the sea and passing through the compact portion of the town, it descends a gentle de- clivity, and continues up the beautiful valley of Nuuanu, adorned by villas and luxuriant vegetation, until, at a distance of seven or eight miles, it terminates at the " Pali," or an abrupt precipice, memorable in Hawaiian annals as the spot where the hosts of the King of Oahu took their fatal leap before the victorious arms of Kamehameha the Great. The streets are generally kept neat and clean, and the light or substantial dwellings of foreigners are scattered at irregular in- tervals on either side ; some of them are elegant. The material of which they are built is wood, and sometimes of coral blocks taken from the reef; these being covered with cement and tastefully shaded, resemble granite or freestone, and the dwelling, with its verandah and green Venetians, has an inviting appearance. The dilapidated native huts scattered here and there are mere excres- cences, and are fast disappearing. Among the public buildings of Honolulu is the Government House, a two-story edifice, substantially built of neatly dressed coral blocks. It was formerly occupied by the Legislative Council during its ses- sions, but is now devoted almost exclusively to offices of the Home and Foreign Departments. Over the arched gateway of the court has been placed, by way of ornament or effect, the gilded diadem of 8 114 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. regal dignity. In the erection of the Custom-House, reference has been had to service rather than architectural decoration. It is a plain three-story building, conveniently located near the water. From the harbor, the eye seeks in vain for a more attractive object than the Market, situated near the principal wharf. It is neat and appropriate, and would be an ornament to any town. The Court- House, bounded on the east by Fort Street, and a short distance to the right, is a more elaborate structure than either of the others referred to. It is subservient to the requirements of Capitol, Halls of Justice, and ecclesiastical convocations. These buildings are all of coral, and within the circuit of one-fourth of a mile of each other. The Palace, on Main Street, is barely visible, owing to its confined situation, being surrounded by massive walls of coral, inclosing a gar- den of young trees ; but it is roomy, having spacious apartments, some of them decorated with the relics of antiquity, and others with the designs of art. The Fort, situated at the water's edge, is, like that of Lahaina, used more as a prison than a national defence, and at any hour of the day two or three sentinels may be seen lounging lazily upon its ramparts. At the present time there are substantial wharves, where vessels of a large class may lie alongside and discharge their cargoes, while the emulous competition of the native boat-boys for your real, strongly reminds one of larger cities. Within a few years carriages have been introduced, and neat equipages roll along the streets that were formerly disturbed only by the equestrian or small vehicle drawn by hand. With reference to the latter mode of con- veyance, which is occasionally resorted to at the present day, I cannot conceive that any ignominy should be attached to its proprie- tor for having a couple of lazy natives to drag it, thus diverting them from idleness, or perhaps worse. I have seen in the East Indies the sedan employed, but have never learned that a breath of reproach was incurred by those who adopted this means of conveyance. As to society, Honolulu is not a whit behind the age, and the associations of refinement pertaining to more extensive communities may here be enjoyed, though in a minor degree, and fetes, balls, and excur- sions are frequently the order of the day. The street scenes are of " all sorts" a medley of costumes and creeds colors and castes. The worshippers of Fo step ner- Views about Toivn. 115 vously along in their flowing robes of embroidered silk, and the straggling Lascar readjusts his turban as he leers at the native syren. Garments that would be cynosures upon the Boulevard are in juxtaposition with dress-coats that might have distracted belles half a century ago. A distinguished citizen once remarked to me that he admired Honolulu because fashions of all climes and ages were tolerated with impunity. Muslin robes and chameleon parasols are no longer apparitions, for the sunlight is reflected in the coquet- tish smiles of northern beauty where parties a la mode enjoy a pic- nic amid the classic scenes of Hawaiian mythology. The native belles merit a passing word. Hand in hand they lounge leisurely through the street, sometimes with wreaths upon their heads, or, again, they sport a fine Panama with a broad, black ribbon. They are usually occupied with staring at the show-windows that exhibit the most gaudy display of recently imported millinery, and some of them would dispute for an hour upon the respective merits of head- dresses. Though prodigal of their smiles, they are sensitive to ridi- cule, and a vocabulary of invectives is sometimes showered upon the offender who trespasses beyond the limits of propriety. It is inter- esting to witness the meeting of two old persons, for with all their faults, the Hawaiians are an affectionate people, and their warm hearts are ever open to the impulses of humanity. First, there is an aloha of recognition, then an embrace, accompanied by collision of noses ; after which follows a wail of discord, to be succeeded by grimaces and mutual congratulations. The market presents a busy scene in the morning. Neatly-attired widows, who advertise for " a few select gentlemen, &c.," trip along the clean streets accompanied by their servants, and visit it to select fresh joints. It is thronged by old and young of all classes and colors, haggling about the price of fish, poultry, and esculents of every description. There is laughing, jostling, and joking, and everywhere an air of good-humor. The old women of the stalls have an Israelitish propensity for coirt, yet their cupidity is tempered with caution. If you toss them a piece upon which the nose of either her Majesty the Queen or that of the Goddess of Liberty has by some mishap received a contusion, in nine instances out of ten it will be rejected. 116 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. An animated spectacle may be witnessed in the streets every Saturday afternoon, when nags and hacks of every description are pressed into service. On these occasions, the natives are arrayed in all their finery ; the men in black or white trowsers and clean Panama hats, (their rims invariably drooped,) and the females in their silks and muslins, their hats and necks decorated with wreaths. Either from convenience or habit, in sitting upon their steeds the females have adopted the custom of their lords ; and girding their waists with Turkey-red, or some other gaudily-colored fabric, they make a flaunting display of their skirts fluttering in the wind. Waikiki appears to be the favorite place of rendezvous ; and at any time during the afternoon, the road is thronged with Amazonian squadrons and detached horsemen dashing by at headlong speed, and scattering the dust in clouds. I have seen two parties, each composed of male and female riders, coming at full gallop from op- posite directions, and without checking a rein or swerving to the right or left, come in full collision with each other, whereby several were thrown headlong to the earth, and more or less injured. As might be supposed, accidents are of frequent occurrence. I was at Maui on one occasion, when a girl, with the recklessness of exuber- ant spirits, was galloping along the street, and just as she had reached the road leading to the chapel, the horse became frightened suddenly stopped, and the girl plunged headlong upon the rocks that abound in that vicinity. Her skull was fractured, and she survived the injury but a few hours. CHAPTER VI. THE SAME CONTINUED. THERE is another feature of Honolulu which I noticed during my last visit, and which would be an interesting subject for the contem- plation of our professors of the agile talent at home ; I allude to the dance-houses. These places of diversion have multiplied through- out the city, and a congregation of some description is of almost Evidences of National Prosperity. 117 nightly occurrence. Dancing is an agreeable pastime, and the rec- reation might be conducted without detriment to the natives ; but an assemblage of this description is little better than a rendezvous for assignation. The appearance of the girls in foreign costume strongly reminds one of the Mexican chulus at their fandangos, and to do them justice, some of them display their forms to advantage, and dance and waltz gracefully. Though looked upon as a moral pest, the legislature as yet has done nothing towards their suppres- sion. It is a delicate task for jurisprudence to draw the exceed- ingly nice distinction that exists between right and wrong. It would be deemed arbitrary to prevent a convivial party from assem- bling in a public room and dispersing at the appointed hour. The civil and religious institutions of Honolulu are progressive, and afford a pleasanter theme. Her Christian associations of va- rious denominations, her united charitable institutions, library so- ciety, diffusion of knowledge by the press, and the association for the development of agricultural resources, and above all, the impartial administration of justice in her courts, are not only evi- dences of the constituent elements of society, but they give Hawaii pre-eminence over all other kingdoms whose resources are con- fined to as limited territorial dominion. Already, from her own contributions, has a mission been established in Micronesia, which has been warmly welcomed by the natives of those groups, and she has thrown out, as it were, a band of pioneers to explore the field of the Marquesas. The hospitality of her citizens to those whom shipwreck and misfortune have thrown upon her shores has been frequently noticed ; and though abounding in vicious tempta- tions, the seamen who roam the streets can offer no excuse for % their indulgence. There is a library appropriated exclusively for their benefit, and there are those whose duty it is to offer the consolations of spiritual advice to such as may require them. In its appropriate place,! should have noticed the leading features of the surrounding country, which, though in the main devoid of the characteristic beauty of the South Sea Islands, still possess much that is attractive. The absence of trees at first strikes the observer as the principal defect, and although no efforts have been spared for their introduction, they never attain the luxuriant growth that ren- 118 Reef-Rowings in the South Seas. ders them so attractive in other portions of the group. The soil is in many places light and porous, and excavations to the depth of a few feet disclose a stratum of volcanic cinders, which, together with the slight depth of the superincumbent earth, retards the natural growth of vegetation. A sinuous stream that waters Nuuanu Valley, dis- embogues into the sea on the western side of the town, and at a short distance from the shore a few scattered cocoanut-trees rise from its banks. The extinct crater of Punchbowl, bounding the plain in the rear of the town, is a conspicuous object for the eye to rest upon, owing to its peculiar formation and commanding appearance. It is crowned with a rude battery, and its sides, at almost regular inter- vals, are deeply furrowed, leaving prominent ridges standing forth like the bastions of sonte antiquated fortress. Here may be obtained a grand view of the surrounding scenery ; and Waikiki plains, the city with its shipping, and the distant mountains of Ewa, together with the sea and its fringe of breakers, are spread out like a vast panorama. The mountains in the rear, rising to no great elevation, are crowned with a luxuriant growth of vegetation, which between the ridges creeps down into the valleys in bright strips of verdure. By far the most pleasing feature is Nuuanu Valley ; descend- ing the gentle slope from the level of the town, you ride leisurely along the smooth road, and on either side are green fields, diversi- fied with snug cottages, native huts, and miniature gardens, having a picturesque effect. Continuing to advance, the road gradually as- cends, and on either side rise more substantial residences, their in- closures adorned by shrubbery, both native and exotic. Neatly painted mile-posts are placed at regular intervals, affording con- veniejit reference, and at the distance of a few miles, the town is shut out by the winding of the valley and the projecting mountain spurs. A perceptible change in the atmosphere is now experienced; and the streamlet, almost before unnoticed, is seen leaping from crags, or heard rippling over its stony bed by the roadside. The valley has grown narrower, and its sides are covered with a sea of ver- dure variegated by the bright foliage of the candlenut. Scarce a house is to be seen, and the heavy vapor sweeping along the moun- tain's side and descending into the valley has a chilling aspect. After fastening your horse behind a woody knoll, to protect it from Romantic Scenery of the "Pali" 119 the violence of the wind, which sometimes, compressed by the moun- tains, comes sweeping like a tempest through the gorge, you ascend to the brow of the pah, or precipice, and a view of unsurpassed grandeur bursts upon the sight. It is one of those scenes to attempt a description of which can never gratify the curiosity of the reader, and is only embarrassing to the writer ; to be appreciated it must be seen. On either side, hemmed in by mountains, you stand as it were at the circumference of a vast amphitheatre, and look down upon the varied landscape beneath. Broad forests sweeping away from the mountain's base, seem dwindled into shrubs, and hill and valley, with smiling aspect, are like the inequalities that characterize a gar- den of art. Often a narrow streak in the reddish soil denotes the course of a road, which is lost by the winding of a valley or an in- tervening hill, when its continuation beyond is again marked until lost in the distance. On the left the prospect is bounded by the am- phitheatre of mountains, which, extending around toward the sea, terminate in blue ridges almost blending with the sky ; iri front ex- tends the broad ocean, and the whitish tinge of the water near the shore denotes the coral barrier. A spiral path for horses has been constructed down the face of the cliff on the right, and the scene is occasionally enlivened by the natives from Kolau toiling up its steep ascent, with their beasts ladened with produce for market. In their way, there are associations connected with the pali deeply interesting, embodying events whose result was the subjuga- tion of a kingdom. After sustaining a vigorous siege, the forces of the King of Oahu, unable longer to hold out against the superior discipline of the warriors of Kamehameha, retreated up the valley, until their course was checked by the abyss, into which they leaped, and their bones were left to bleach beneath the rugged cliffs of Kolau. 120 Reef-Rowings in the South Seas. CHAPTER VII. INCIDENTS OF SOJOURN. " MINE host" of the " Hotel de France," though possessing the whims and oddities peculiar to a Frenchman, was an obliging land- lord, and displayed no little skill in catering for the wants of his guests, for he was au fait with all the mysteries of his pro- fession. It was sometimes amusing to witness his paroxysms of anger with his attendants, and his futile efforts to express himself in the native vernacular. The Hawaiian is a dialect not so copious that its words may be pronounced without regard to accent or em- phasis ; of all nations, the French, like Cockneys, are least qual- ified to give it expression, and their ludicrous efforts sometimes de- generate into absolute absurdities. In the attempt of the latter to say haole, (foreigner,) we have 'aole, (no) ; and by rejecting the as- pirate in the word ha?ia, (labor), we have the signification of the pres- ent participle of a verb. I can imagine that in the attempt of the latter to repeat a correspondingly arranged line of poetry in Hawaiian, we should have something as ludicrous as, " The 'orn of the 'unter is 'card on the 'ill." But Monsieur was above paying attention to all these little minu- tiae, and without regard to punctuation or syntax, he would pour forth a heterogeneous mixture of French, English, and Hawaiian to one of his boys, who, with mouth agap and projecting eyeballs, was only paying attention to the frantic gestures by which to obtain a clue to his master's wishes. Sometimes I have seen them, after withdraw- ing to a safe distance, shrug up their shoulders and give utterance to their favorite expression, a-ole paha, (no you don't.) But with all his foibles and eccentricities, he was a good host, and his guests will remember with pleasure his attentions. At this time I had a roving commission, and abundant leisure to perfect myself in a course of Hawaiian, a taste the natives are always pleased to indulge. For the convenience of the reader, who Architecture Household Arrangements. 121 may not have one at hand, I will give a hasty description of their houses, which we may possibly have to frequent during future rambles. Having selected a suitable locality, a number of strong posts are driven into the earth in parallel rows, leaving an area for the interior, in accordance with the taste of the proprietor. The portions remain- ing above ground vary in height from three to seven or eight feet, with a distance of three or four feet between each other ; upon them are laid rafters, forming generally an acute, or at least a right angle at the ridge. Outside of both rafters and posts, ahos (wattles) are fastened with sennit, made from the fibre of the cocoanut-husk, at short distances from each other, giving the uncovered frame a sort of lattice-work appearance. It is then ready for thatching, and for this purpose the coarse grass called pili is used, which is so laid on as to render them water and weather proof. When more than or- dinary pains are taken with them, the natives have a fashion of braiding the grass on the outside, which gives them a somewhat tasteful appearance ; however, an ordinary grass-house that has seen service, if viewed at a short distance, looks much like a weather-beaten haystack. But appearances are often deceptive, and the interior of these primitive domicils is more inviting than their exterior would lead one to suppose. They have usually a good door with hinges, and square apertures at the sides designed for windows, and these have shutters. The floor is strewed with dry grass, and covered with mats made of the lauhala, which are either few or numerous, coarse or fine, according to the taste or wealth of the owner. Partitions are formed by curtains, usually of some gaudy material ; and for beds, if unprovided with bedsteads, they have mats of a fine quality; for the manufacture o'f these, the leewardmost island, Nihau, is famous. Their pillows are stuffed with pulu, a sub- stance resembling the down of a thistle. Almost every house can boast of a few chairs or table manufactured from koa wood, the ma- hogany of the Pacific, besides chests to contain their' apparel. One corner is usually devoted to calabashes and feasting arrangements, also agricultural implements, if the proprietor be a laborer. During the night a tin lamp is suspended from the centre pole, affording them sufficient light to sleep by, which they always require, having an invincible dread of akuas, (ghosts.) 122 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. After remaining in Honolulu nearly two weeks, I was fortunate in making the acquaintance of Mr. Linton L. Torbert. a planter of East Maui. At his invitation I consented to accompany him to his plantation at Ulupalakua, (ripe breadfruit of the gods,) he having chartered the " Kammey" to call there on her way to Hawaii. On the day appointed we embarked, but if the confusion I had before witnessed at Lahaina was noticeable, it was now increased tenfold. There were several members of the Mission, with their families, whose stations were among the windward isla.nds ; they were encumbered by servants, who in turn were surrounded by friends come to take leave. It was past four o'clock, the hour for departure, yet there was no movement on the part of those natives who resided ashore towards leaving the deck. There were wailings and fre- quent contact of noses, and the word aloha predominated above every other. But this delay was finally obviated by the kindness of a gentleman, formerly of the Mission, who with a slender ratan, a rod of love, laid it gently across the shoulders of both male and fe- male, and the aloha was speedily changed to auwe ! (oh dear !) while a simultaneous rush for the canoes was the result of its application. Without incident worth noticing, we reached Lahaina the follow- ing day, and having discharged passengers and cargo for that place, we continued on towards Hounaula, (red earth,) the name of Mr. Torbert's landing. When off the deep gorges of Olualu and Ukame- hame, we encountered one of those momokus, or whirlwinds, which sometimes sweep down from the mountains with fearful violence. In an instant our jib was fluttering from the stay in ribbons. With but little sea-way, the water was lifted and whirled over the deck fore and aft, and before we could let go halliards, the schooner was ploughing her way along, almost bulwarks under, to the consterna- tion of our lady passengers. We soon passed the last projecting point of West Maui, and opened the broad bay of Malia, where we had a good view of the low isthmus, uniting as it were the two islands ; also the lofty summit of East Maui, Haleakala, (house of the sun,) looming darkly above the clouds to an elevation of 10,000 feet above the sea. Mr. Torbert had left us at Lahaina, and ridden over the mountain on horseback, so that we had no other pilot than a native woman, a wife of "one of his foreign employees. To a per- A " Rod of Love" New Companions. 123 son unacquainted with the localities, it would be difficult to find the precise anchorage, for there is a uniformity in the appearance of the shore that to an inexperienced eye hardly offers a landmark. Cap- tain Akoni kept the woman constantly on the look-out, and by the lights on shore she managed to discover the spot, and letting go our anchor, we soon had the satisfaction of hearing juvenile voices laughing and shouting from the rocks. CHAPTER VIII. "RIPE BREADFRUIT OF THE GODS." MR. TORBERT lost no time in coming alongside in a canoe, and with the native woman, Mrs. Sinclair, we paddled ashore. Here I found two persons who had long been engaged in his service, and to whom we shall have occasion to make future reference They had just returned from a hunting excursion, and the result of their sporting was a few braces of wild pigeons. One of them, the hus- band of our pilot, whom we called " Long Jim," was a tall down- easter ; the other answered to the name Steve, who was likewise an American, and savored something of the backwoodsman, for he was expert with the axe. They were both clever souls. Steve bustled about for a supper, and, with the assistance of a native, soon re- turned with a quantity of fish wrapped up in leaves, and smoking hot from the oven, besides a large calabash of poi. We all sat down upon the mats to enjoy a hearty repast, and a person must be a Stoic to avoid augmenting his acquaintance on such an occasion. Having supped, in company with the two, I strolled along the beach, while they entertained me with all the little items of gossip and scandal about Ulupalakua. But this was done for talk's sake and to become more intimate ; a more harmonious little community never jogged along among the green hills of Maui. In the morning I found the premises to consist of a good-sized yard, containing a large stone storehouse, and two or three thatch 124 Reef-Ravings in the South Seas. arrangements of smaller dimensions. There was also a boat-shed ; and chain cables, spars, old rigging, cannon-balls, &c., recalled to mind the ship-yard of " Richard Quilp, Esq." At an early hour the natives began to assemble, and the work of discharging commenced. The merchandise was conveyed in boats as near to the shore as practicable, when it was carried by islanders, who stood ready to re- ceive it, to the beach above high-water mark. During the morning a canoe filled with girls made its appearance from behind a project- ing point, who by their laughing and singing seemed to court atten- tion. Presently the outrigger flew high in the air, and they were swimming around the canoe, which had been purposely capsized. After a brief interval it was righted, and one of the youngest assisted into it, to bail out. One by one they emerged from the sea and re- sumed their seats, wringing the brine from their dark tresses, and laughing merrily as ever. About nine o'clock, bullock teams with heavy carts, which we had seen descending the mountain, arrived, driven by native boys, to convey the merchandise to the plantation. The only portion of this that was visible were a few bright cane-fields, which the inequali- ties of the mountain-side permitted to be seen. The road, a good one, could be traced at intervals until it ascended the last hill, a dis- tance of three miles. The carts being ladened, we set out at a slow pace, for the road was a continued ascent, and before the oxen had finished their journey they were panting with heat and fatigue. There is hardly tree or shrub by the wayside to relieve the lonely aspect, except frequently large clusters of the cactus rising above the coarse grass. I have always thought the road to Ulupalakua and I have travelled it often as wearisome as that of the Hill of Science ; if the hospitable proprietor would only establish a sort of half-way house for the benefit of visitors, he would be looked upon as a public benefactor. Having ascended about halfway, one of the teams, in a fit of des- peration, broke away from the road, dragging the cart alarmingly near the edge of a dry water-course, and I anticipated nothing less than a general stampede. Fortunately, the boys succeeded in quieting them, and I had now a lesson to learn regarding the propen- sities of cattle that had once roamed wild among their native hills. Experiences among the Teamsters. 125 By some accident the chain that connects the cart with the yoke had become wound around the tongue, and the boys were making a great ado among themselves as to who should clear it. Impatient at the delay, I stepped up to the nearest bullock, with a loud " stand-over" that was meant to intimidate, and laid my hand upon the chain. At the present day I have a confused recollection of describing sundry gyrations in the air, until brought to a sense of consciousness by fa- miliar contact with the earth. This was the first and last time that I interfered with cattle in the Pacific. As hill after hill rose with its steep ascent before us, my sympathy for the panting beasts grad- ually relapsed into considerations of personal comfort. To have mounted one of the carts which they seemed hardly able to drag after them, would have been worse than walking, and our only resource was to halt frequently. By noon we had still the interminable suc- cession of hills ; the last was the climax of perpendicularity, and after reaching its summit we all sat down to rest, for the village of Ulupalakua was before us. A conspicuous object was the tall white chimney of the boiling- house, rolling out volumes of black smoke ; and around this were grouped the mills, rind and drying-houses. The road leading to the open space in the centre was lined on either side with the grass- houses of native laborers. Other domicils were also scattered about in different parts of the plantation, their cultivations lending a pleasing effect to the landscape. On either side were bright fields of cane in various stages of growth ; and in their appropriate places, large groves of bananas and extensive fields of taro were waving in the breeze. Roads intersected each other, and along some of them carts were conveying their juicy loads to the mills. Around these were assembled old and young, chiefly females, who were feeding them, while others carried the crushed rind to dry. The mills con- sisted simply of upright iron rollers with the requisite machinery, which was worked by oxen, and the expressed juice was conveyed by subterranean channels to vats in the boiling-house. All seemed animated and happy. The boys sang as they drove their teams ; the females gossipped and joked while performing their duties. In-* dependent of these there were carpenter, blacksmith, tinsmith, cooper, &c., pursuing their vocations. The proprietor and director 126 Reef -Roving s in the South Seas. of this industrious community, sorrounded by the smiling evidences of prosperity, possessed a more solid basis for enjoyment than they who hoard wealth amid the dens of a city. The house of Mr. Tor- bert, though thatch, was a large and substantial building, having porches in front and rear. The principal ornament of the interior was a well-selected library ; the most comfortable appendages were the broad table, suggestive of things that might happen, and the spacious beds. The door of one of the small rooms in the rear was open, and from the rafters were suspended countless bunches of bananas in every stage of perfection. The cook-house adjoining, was almost surrounded by banana-trees. It is unknown to what circumstance this district is indebted for its name " Ripe-breadfruit-of-the-Gods" for tradition makes no men- tion of its abounding with the name-giving tree. At the present day the surface of the soil is hardly diversified by tree or shrub, unless a short distance farther up, where it is clothed with a heavy and almost impenetrable growth of forest. At an elevation of more than three thousand feet above the sea it possesses a climate cool and invigorating ; and nothing save actual convalescence can be more agreeable to invalids who have been languishing in the heated atmosphere of the lowlands, than to ascend to this temperate zone and enjoy the breeze, cool and fresh from the mountains. During the night heavy dews fall, and the air is sometimes so chilly that an additional blanket is required. Its commanding prospect is not the least of its attractions ; the broad ocean, the barren island of Kahu- lawe, with the rocky islet of Molokini in mid-channel, the rugged mountain of Lanai and a portion of Molokai, are all beheld at a glance. In clear weather the shipping in the roadstead of La- haina, a distance of thirty miles, is discernible ; and there is also a view of Malia Bay and the barren mountains of West Maui. Look- ing seaward, the mountain-side is diversified by hill, plain, and val- ley, where sheep and cattle are grazing ; and on the left there is a broad tract as black as Erebus, where, in ages beyond tradition, the lava has made its way to the sea. With a telescope you may here and there detect a solitary hut ; and occasionally a faint cloud of smoke shows where the native is preparing the land for cultivation. Small hamlets are scattered along the shore, and near the landing, A Model Plantation. 127 a prominent feature of the landscapeas an extinct crater known as Miller's Hill, its rugged cliffs washed by the waves. The soil of this district is exceedingly prolific ; though the period for the ripening of sugar-cane is necessarily of greater duration than would be required in the lowlands, this deficiency, if such it can be called, is amply compensated for by the superiority of its quality. I have surveyed* every field, yet do not recollect their aggregate area ; but there are several hundred acres under culti- vation, and in planting, such reference is had to convenience that there is always a portion fit for cutting at any season of the year. In a paper recently read by Mr. Torbert, before the Hawaiian Agri- cultural Association at Honolulu, it is stated that sugar-cane was first noticed among these islands at Ulupalakua ; whether this cir- cumstance is to be attributed to accident or to its partiality for the soil, it is certain that the sugar here manufactured is of superior quality. This, however, is in some degree owing to the attention bestowed upon its preparation ; for, unlike the system pursued by many plantations on these islands, the whole process is conducted upon principles strictly scientific. I believe, however, it has a for- midable rival on the leeward Island of Kauai, where are also exten- sive cultivations of coffee ; but I am certain of having seen the prize medal in the possession of Mr. Torbert. The system pursued in conducting the plantation is worthy of re- mark. The attention paid to morality and sobriety has, in a great degree, been conducive to its prosperity. With reference to occu- pation, there are no harrowing distinctions drawn between the for- eigners engaged in his service. The visitor at Ulupalakua, be he high or low, rich or poor, sits at the same table with the most humble artisan. There are some who have formed matrimonial alliances with the native females ; and to these a sufficient quantity of land has been allotted, also the necessary time for its cultivation. Atten- tion has been paid to the construction of suitable houses for the natives ; during a severe kbna (southwest tempest) that swept with violence over the land, I have seen Mr. Torbert inspecting their con- dition, and from such as were dilapidated removing their inmates to others more commodious, and providing those who needed them with warm and comfortable garments from his own house. The condi- 128 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. tion of the natives in his employ is in many respects superior to that of those who draw a precarious subsistence by occasionally cul- tivating and fishing on their own account. Their pay is sufficient to provide for their necessary wants, and the food served out is good and abundant. They are well clothed, and contented and happy. At an early hour the horn sounds, and the laborers assemble, each knowing his respective duty. In due time it again recalls them to their morning meal, after which they return to their occupations, and at night they come flocking in with their implements to the store- house, where those permanently engaged receive their rations, and the day-laborers their pay, usually a paper certificate redeemable in merchandise on demand. During the " cutting season," large num- bers, both male and female, assemble from Kaupo and the districts ad- joining. The scene then is one of increased industry and animation. Such was its condition during my early visits to Ulupalakua ; but whether subsequent events have rendered it necessary for the proprietor, like those of other plantations, to resort to the labor of Chinese coolies, who as an experiment were imported in 1851, I cannot say ; but in any event, shall hope that the energy and perse- verance which have characterized his efforts may have success for their ultimate reward. CHAPTER IX. PLANTATION LIFE. To have seen us jogging along together in unison, one would suppose us to be a model community of Socialists who had crept up into our eyrie, where we could observe without being ob- served. Our elucidations of humanity were drawn from various sources ; though composed of divers elements, the result of habit and association, our enjoyments were in common, and a mind aspiring to superiority in its intercourse with those around it, would have been an object of commiseration in our home Connubial Felicity in Polynesia. - 129 among the mountains. From the proprietor down, we had all seen service in whalers ; and the hand that swung the sledge or shoved the plane, could with equal facility handle an oar or trim a sail. After the toils of the day were over, we would assemble beneath the porch in the cool evening, and comparing notes, revive old reminis- cences. There was one of our number, the old gray-headed cooper of Nantucket, (Heaven rest his soul ! for he has gone to render a long account of deeds done in the body,) whose domestic troubles afforded unsympathizing hearts a continued source of diversion. He had united his destinies for weal or woe with those of a Kaupo girl young enough to be his grand-daughter, and who, as the novelty of matrimony wore away, was uncharitable enough to cast reflections upon his venerable locks, and otherwise animadvert upon his rheu- matic infirmities. But all this was meekly borne by the object of her acrimony ; and it was only when she would actually desert him, to seek obscurity among her native hills, that his grief found utterance in tears and lamentations. To have solicited either work or favor from him at these periods of desertion would be requiring an impos- sibility ; for, wringing his hands and forgetting his infirmities, he walked frantically up and down, recounting his woes to all he met, at the same time an object of mirth and pity. There was a person residing on the plantation who had seen as many years as the cooper, and between these two old men existed the bitterest ani- mosity. This was the only instance of mutual ill-will observable among us, but it was so perfectly harmless in its results that it gave to the monotony of daily routine the spice of variety. On the occa- sions alluded to, the cooper's arch-enemy would wag his head with, a satisfied look, and with a shade of sarcasm remark, "Kupanaha !' (astonishing !) the cooper 's got his tantrims ag'in, fal de dol diddle- dol dido !" and whenever they met, the wrinkled features of the< one, as far as was possible, expressed exultation, while the eyes of the other shot cannon-balls. An express would be forthwith dispatched to the beach, and in due season a couple of kaikos (constables) would make their appear- ance with their insignia of office caps with red bands and formi- dable clubs. Of course a resort to their services drew largely upon the 9 130 * Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. cooper's exchequer, and if empty, as was usually the case, he had recourse to a loan, as an affectionate husband is in duty bound to do, after which the minions of the law would take their departure over the mountains to bring back the recluse. To do this required a day or two, and I have known three days to elapse before she was returned to the desolate homestead. With a mixture of sulkiness and shame, she would enter the house, while the cooper followed with humility, arid closed the door. The bonds of matri- mony are sacred, and it would have been a bold eye to peep through an aperture of the thatch and witness the arguments resorted to on that occasion. With pardonable curiosity, we could listen at a respectful distance, and no one was more delighted with the scene that was to follow than our old friend, who would interpret the na- tive portion of the colloquy ; but the cooper's English was generally too expressive to require comment or explanation. Sometimes the interview commenced with an ominous silence that would con- tinue for several minutes ; then a few incoherent words in the native tongue, in a tone of reproach, succeeded, without eliciting a re- ply. Next, expostulations in mingled native and English would be heard in a louder voice, the more amusing to us, for, save a word or two, neither of them understood the language of the other. After this had been indulged in a reasonable length of time without a word on her part, I was at first thrown into consternation by repeated smacking sounds, very like the contact of a hand with an inviting por- tion of flesh, (usually resorted to in instances of refractory children ;) when the silence was at once broken by a loud auwc ! (oh dear!) and then were heard the unfeminine expressions of elemakule ! (old man !) puaa ! (pig!) nihoole ! (toothless !) and a copious vocabulary of Hawaiian reproaches. Poor cooper ! He literally " had as much trouble as a married man," and they could only compromise their difficulties by his promising to purchase a new dress, or sundry ar- ticles of finery gratifying to her savage fancy. One day, the very picture of despair, he requested me to step down to his house with him and look at his wife, and if she pleased me, he would procure a divorce and sell her to me for a reasonable compen- sation. The district of Kaupo is famous for its beauty, and madam was a fair sample, for she was delicately formed, without that sen- Tempting Inducements to Marry. 131 sual expression peculiar to many of the Hawaiians. From the cor- diality of my reception, I have not the slightest doubt but that she fully concurred in her husband's wishes, and to avoid incurring any suspicions of insincerity, I declined his offer, by saying that I was so erratic in my movements that I could not make up my mind to assume the responsibilities of matrimony ; also, that the necessary outfit would be too expensive. " Don't mention it," said the cooper ; " here's my house and all its furniture, (consisting of a chair, table, bedding, three calabashes, and a poi board,) and a large field of taro, (two-thirds of an acre,) that I'll throw in gratis to give you a start." I begged him not to think there was any want of appreciation of his kindness on my part, and finally convinced him that, situated as I then was, a mere visitor, such an alliance would be wholly im- practicable. Their union having never been prolific, he questioned me as to the propriety of adopting a child, " to see if it wouldn't kinder get her wonted." On this subject I told him he was the more competent to judge, and wishing that he might never have a recur- rence of his afflictions, I left him. About ten days after my arrival, it was rumored through our little village that there was to be a wedding a double wedding the same day and all the old gossips were on the qui vive, for the bride- grooms were foreigners. They were both widowers, and on in- quiry I learned that one was our friend Steve, and the other Jack Burns. Both resided at opposite extremes of the plantations, and Jack declared he had lived in Kalihi (garden) long enough "without a blossom." It has been said that " the course of true love never runs smooth," and such was the case in this instance, for up hill and down dale they were compelled to go to reach Wailuku, the nearest mis- sionary residence, and distant nearly twenty miles. I did not see the wedding party, which started away at an early hour, but about four o'clock in the afternoon the sound of juvenile voices announced its return, and all eyes were directed to the road winding down the hill from the Kula district. Here was seen the whole party troop- ing along, some on horseback, and a large retinue on foot, and all making an ostentatious display ; some with white Panamas decorated with ribbons, and flashy silks, others with wreaths, Turkey-red, and 132 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. white muslin robes. The old superannuated dog Tiger and his younger companion immediately ran up the road as far as the rind- house, where they stationed themselves, and whether congratulatory or not, commenced a series of barkings, which continued without in- termission until the arrival of our guests. "There was no more work during the remainder of that day, and natives and foreigners assembled to offer their congratulations. Un- doubtedly there were many present who would have been glad had a wedding happened every day, for preparations for a feast had been going forward. In passing an opinion upon the relative merits of the young brides, I would do so without disparaging the taste of either Jack or Steve, for marriages here, as is frequently the case at home, are more matters of convenience than otherwise. Steve had married the sister of his deceased wife, who had always resided in his family ; but despite her finery, the nasal organ was decidedly too broad to favor any pretensions to beauty. I believe, however, she has proved a serviceable helpmate, and am certain that their union is in a fair way of being blessed with a numerous progeny. Mrs. Burns had a lighter complexion, and was in every respect more attractive than her companion, but her happiness was brief. Like many an old acquaintance, she has bidden farewell forever to the bright scenes of Ulupalakua. Torbert went out, gun in hand, and shot a large hog ; two of the boys ran up, and seizing it by the ears, called out, after a momentary examination, Ua make ! (he's dead !) upon which Keane Lili, our quartermaster, approached with a large blood-letting instrument. The hog was speedily dressed and roasting under ground. A short time after sunset he presented a ghastly appearance, when his proportions, undisturbed, were carried into the rear porch on a wooden trencher. There were numerous hillocks of roasted taro and sweet potatoes, besides poi enough to feast all the natives of East Maui. The females preferred sitting upon the mats and supping a la Turque; but the foreigners, and there was a goodly number of us, monopolized the table, which was groaning beneath its feast of fat things. In ad- dition to the substantial fare with which we were always provided, there were sundry approximations to pastry, (we had no thorough- bred cook,) and oysters that had vegetated in the beds of the At- A Double WeddingThe Fine Arts. 133 lantic, together with a surfeit of fruit, and what was better than all, we were entertained with the dry jokes of our host, burnished up for the occasion. It has been the policy of Mr. Torbert to " marry off" those en- gaged in his service, whether native or foreigner, as fast as pos- sible, and in some instances the plan is a good one. To a for- eigner, it is often attended with inconvenience ; for, in marrying one of its members, the bridegroom usually has the entire family " shoul- dered on to him," and frequently relatives of questionable affinity. Recently, Mr. Tjorbert has been empowered by the authorities to marry upon his plantation, and with natives the affair is conducted with little ceremony. A man and woman conceive they were made for each other, make application, and if no obstacle exists they are forthwith united in the store, which is filled with spec- tators. Mr. Torbert's was a versatile talent. Though possessing a taste for music and the fine arts, he was modest of his accomplishments as an amateur. A year or two prior to my arrival, he had stumbled upon a German musical-instrument maker in Honolulu ; a bargain was struck, and the artist carried off to Ulupalakua, where, after breathing the pure atmosphere of the mountains for a few days, he was installed in the workshop, and provided with materials for making a seraphine. The instrument was completed, and in the still evening the' natives would gather around to listen to the strange har- mony that stole softly over the hills and awoke the woodland soli- tudes. But an El Dorado was discovered on the adjoining coast, and all eyes were turned towards Maui for a garden. The seraphine was ignominiously consigned to obscurity, where, in a dilapidated grass-house, encumbered by rickety furniture and lumber, it was speedily covered with cobwebs. The fingers that glided over the ivory keys now drafted a vessel, and sharp axes in the hands of Yankee pioneers decimated the forest trunks that for ages had flourished undisturbed. A schooner was built, launched, and freighted on the owner's account, with the produce of his plantation. She was called the " Chance," and consigned to the chances of waves and fortune. It was during the period of her absence that I arrived. 134 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. I found a guitar in Honolulu, that had made its way there from the Spanish Main, where it had probably charmed brunettes and timed their movements in the equivocal steps of the samucueca. This I carried with me to the plantation ; and also prevailed upon Torbert to rescue the old seraphine from oblivion. But the responses of the finger-board were often in startling discord, and it was only from a limited number of chords that harmony could be produced. One evening the main apartment presented an interesting scene. Around the broad koa table were seated several of the foreign em- ployees, reading. Though isolated among the mountains, some of them were deeply absorbed in continental politics, while others culled statistics from American documents, and a visitor was poring over an illustrated edition of Robinson Crusoe. Upon the table be- fore them were a bunch of ripe bananas and a plate of finely pow- dered sugar. The doors were open, and in the back porch were three or four little girls, attendants, whose duty it was " to brush away insects ;" and, as is often the case with little folks when they have nothing to do, making a great deal of noise. A couple of elderly females were indulging in an interminable gossip. Torbert and I were alternately talking and thrumming upon the instruments, when suddenly a prolonged shriek of human agony chimed in with horrid symphony to our harmony. The effect was electric : books and instruments were dropped, and when Torbert, without hat or coat, started off in the direction whence the sound came, the women, with distorted features, screamed, " Akua /" (ghosts.) We listened, but the cry was not repeated. The old resident in- formed us that it was probably the effect of fear upon some native who fancied himself the victim of a supernatural visitation. His conclusions were correct. Upon his return, Mr. Torbert informed his anxious audience that, far down amid the cane-fields, he had found one of the strongest natives in his service panting and help- less, and covered with a profuse perspiration. In the dark, he had been encountered by the spirit of a deceased relative that had seized him by the throat and endeavored to strangle him. These spirits, like their deities, are always bugbears to terrify. Between the former and the living there is no bond of spiritual communion, A Travelling Party. 135 while the latter are regarded as synonyms of pestilence and-scourge. It is somewhat remarkable that at the moment the man screamed, the cooper's wife, more than half a mile distant, responded and went into convulsions. The "ghost-seer" was her relative. Almost palsied with fright, the old cooper tottered up to the house for assist- ance, and we in turn were startled by the apparition of his livid countenance. Two weeks passed rapidly away, when surveying duties called Mr. Torbert abroad ; at his request I accompanied him, thus bidding adieu to Ulupalakua for several months. Subsequent adventures here will be reserved for future pages CHAPTER X". HAWAIIAN ROADS AT an early hour our horses and knapsacks were prepared, and in company with a gentleman from Honolulu, we commenced ascend- ing the Kula road. It wound through cane and taro fields, and from an eminence we had a fine view of the plantation, with its cultivated portions regularly laid out, interspersed with houses and banana groves. The road winds to the left, and, with occasional ascent and descent, continues through the district of Kula, at an elevation of more than 4,000 feet above the sea, until it gradually descends towards Makawao. It was a mere bridle-path across open fields and through strips of forest that covered the face of the moun- tain above us, where it was encircled by a belt of clouds. The trees of the lower edge were low and scraggy, but often affording an agree- able shade ; around their trunks and from their branches were para- sitic vines en wreathed and hanging in festoons. But few houses were passed ; near some of them natives were clearing the land for agricultural purposes. We reached the residence of Mr. William McLean (since de- ceased) at noon. Nearly five years have elapsed since I visited 136 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. Makawao, and although my recollections of it are not very distinct, I thought it at the time one of the most charming spots I ever beheld. A vast inclined plane was diversified by forest and small copses of woodland, together with deep valleys and broad cultivations of sugar-cane. There were good roads ; and the number of houses, both native and foreign, evidenced a larger population than those of the district through which we had just passed. The residence of Mr. McLean was situated in a garden perfumed by the mingled odors of rose and geranium, and was also shaded by the wide-spread- ing branches of the majestic koa. Among the fruit-trees I noticed the peach ; but a lower temperature is requisite for it to attain perfection. A week of delightful recreation had. been passed at Makawao, when we mounted our horses at an early hour and set out for Lahaina by the road running parallel with the sea-shore. From Kalepolepo, on the south side of the isthmus, around by the way of Waikapu and Wailuku to Makawao, will be found the best road in the whole group, for the level nature of the land favors its construction. Along the shore on the north, a better could hardly be expected, and with a few slight improvements, it would be admirably adapted for a car- riage-road. The few houses seen by the way were principally fisher- men's huts, but at Kahuluwe there was quite a hamlet, with several storehouses, and though possessing no available harbor for shipping other than small coasters, it is the port to which the produce of Ma- kawao and the lands adjacent is conveyed for exportation. We traversed the sandy plains and hills of Wailuku, ever mem- orable in Hawaiian annals as being the spot where Kamehameha landed with his fleet of canoes from Hawaii and fought his first battle on Maui, whose ultimate result was the complete subjugation of the leeward islands. The name of the stream that issues from the deep gorge of Wailuku signifies " carnage choked," and from present indications, it would appear to have been appropriately ap- plied, for the trade-winds that sweep over this desolate tract, whirl- ing the sand into ridges and miniature cones, daily disclose fresh evidences of the slaughter. We saw numerous skulls and bones, some of them quite perfect, but others crumbling, and all bleached to a dazzling whiteness in the sun. Wailuku, distant fifteen miles from the residence of Mr. McLean, Souvenir of General Harrison. 137 is a neat and pretty village, with roads and paths winding among numerous taro-patches and cultivations. The houses generally were more commodious than those we had seen on East Maui. The mission residence, school, and church, were its chief attractions ; a short distance in the rear rose the barren mountains of West Maui. Though a hasty meal had been provided for us previous to setting out, an invitation to breakfast from Kuialani, a chief who resides here, could not be declined without manifest indifference to his hos- pitality ; giving our horses to the boys in attendance, we accom- panied him to his house. Though of thatch, I considered it pref- erable to many frame-houses of greater pretensions. It was spacious and airy, and the simplicity of its furniture rendered it still more attractive. His wife, a portly female, and of higher rank than him- self, was sitting upon a pile of fine mats, and gave us a cordial aloha as we entered, but she did not change her recumbent position while we remained. There were a number of female attendants or visitors, some with long kahilis to brush away insects, and others merely looking on, laughing familiarly and making comments. A snowy table-cloth was spread, and adorned with dishes of white porcelain, together with polished blades and silver forks, and our fare, consist- ing of fresh fish, roast duck and pork, fowl, taro, potatoes, breadfruit, and coffee, was served up to correspond. Kuialani himself presided as master of ceremonies. We were both amused and complimented by one evidence of his taste. This was a large curtain of silk handkerchiefs, each emblazoned with the likeness of "General Wil- liam H. Harrison," a relic of the campaign of 1840. We loitered here for an hour, then remounted, and passed through the smaller village of Waikapu, (consecrated water,) and without drawing rein, continued on until' we diverged from the cart-road to the bridle-path that winds over the mountain. Here we dismounted and tightened our saddle girths, and 1 had yet to see a Hawaiian road in all its deformity, that which crosses the mountains of West Maui. I would observe, that with all her improvements, Hawaii is sadly deficient in roads ; except where natural facilities are offered for their construction, they consist usually of miserable paths wind- ing through bush and brake, frequently making long detours to avoid a narrow ravine that might be spanned by a bridge, and running 138 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. along the brink of a precipice, where a false step would precipitate horse and rider to destruction. With reference to the road in ques- tion, its present route cannot well be avoided, unless one were con- structed by the sea-side. But this would be a work of immense labor, arid would require more time and money than skilful engineer- ing. From its summit, this portion of the mountain descends in rocky ridges to the sea, terminating in abrupt cliffs, into which the ceaseless dashing of the waves has worn caverns. After a short halt, we commenced the steep ascent by the zigzag path, leaning forward in our saddles, and sweltering beneath the rays of a burning sun. A tedious ride brought us to a cooler region, where the coarse pili was waving, and here the comparative smooth- ness of the path for a short distance afforded an opportunity for can- tering our horses. Torbert kept the lead, our Honolulu friend the middle, and I the rear, for this reason our leader had the best horse, and was almost daily in the saddle, while I was fresh from the region of tar and greasy substances ; besides, I had become so lacerated by the Mexi- can saddle, that trotting was insupportable. Sometimes, in looking ahead, I would see horse and rider suddenly disappear, and after a while emerge from the opposite side of a ravine as I reached its brink to contemplate with dismay the route to be pursued. On these occasions, Torbert would look back and call out jocosely, " Keep up, keep up, or you'll lose your way." I mentally wished I could see his horse rolling down from one of the steep ridges, so that I could have a temporary respite, while expressing concern for the accident. In one place the rocky wall rises perpendicularly, where the path is in- sufficient for two horsemen to ride abreast, and on the other side is an alarmingly steep declivity, interspersed with rocks and other un- inviting objects. To avoid any unpleasant meditations in passing this spot, I started my horse at full speed, but with over-caution, drew the right rein too strongly, and the result was that my knee was dashed against a projecting rock with such violence, that for a long time my foot hung powerless from the stirrup. My humble advice to all novices on Hawaiian roads is, to ride with shins and thighs incased in greaves. The descent of the mountain on the opposite side was infinitely Equestrian Exercises. 139 worse than the ascent, for in some places it was literally leaping from rock to rock, and our animals seemed to pick their way by instinct. A most welcome sound was the faint roaring of the surf, which could now be seen fringing the bright landscape beneath us, and after a brief interval our panting steeds were galloping along the smooth sandy beach towards a couple of shady trees, where we halted to refresh ourselves. A pleasanter road was near the shore, and as if accustomed to it, our horses immediately broke into a canter. Here we passed the small hamlet of Olualu, with its cool stream issuing from the dark mountain gorge in the rear. But few trees or cultivations were to be seen, and the average breadth of the bottom-land, between the mountain and the shore, was perhaps half a mile, though in some in- stances it was more than double that distance. The mountains of Molokai gradually came in sight, and at four o'clock we passed the stony district of Launiupoko, and were soon after gratified by the sight of the cocoanut grove of Polanui, the suburbs of Lahaina. CHAPTER XI. AFTER passing two days in Lahaina, surveying duties required the presence of Mr. Torbert on the island of Molokai, ten miles distant, and for this purpose a whale-boat was provided to convey us across the channel. He had availed himself of the services of a young graduate of the Seminary of Lahainaluna, named Richardson, who, accompanied by his friends and others, swelled our number to fifteen persons. We started at an early hour, and pulled along outside the reef, un- til the western point of the island had been reached, when our sail was set to the stormy wind sweeping through the channel. Our greatest source of inconvenience was our younger passengers, who, accus- tomed to their canoes with outriggers, seemed to think their safety 140 Reef-Rovings in the South Seas. depended upon keeping the boat on even keel, when the reverse was the case ; for it is obvious that if a boat have the wind abeam, it will be less liable to accident by having a list to leeward, thereby ele- vating the weather-side, which serves as a bulwark against the waves, and by rising with them, frequently prevents their breaking aboard. Incessant baling was required, and between watching squalls and seas, our excursion was anything but agreeable. With- out mishap we shaped our course through a boat passage in the reef, and landed upon the sandy beach of Molokai. A group of natives, male and female, came down to welcome our arrival, and seemed