POPULAR GEOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY. UNITED STATES OF AMEKICA. POPULAR GEOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY, THE UNITED STATES OF AM E filC A: THEIR CLIMATE, SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, POPULA- TION, MANUFACTURES, RELIGION, ARTS, GOVERNMENT, &a, &c. BY ROBERT STEWART, A.M. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY W. TWEEDIE, STRAND. MDCCCLIII. ADVERTISEMENT. IN modern times, especially at the present period, the general intercourse of knowledge amongst all classes, the intimate commercial and political relations existing between civilised communities, and the universal desire of all inquiring minds to become acquainted with distant countries, and with the inhabitants, condition, and productions of regions differing from our own, unite in render- ing Geographical knowledge interesting to the majority of the human family ; while to many it is indispensable, in qualifying them for the pur- suits of commerce and industry, and for much of the current and daily avocations of life. On these grounds, therefore, and with the view of imparting such useful information in a cheap form, is "THE POPULAR GEOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY" introduced to the public, upon a plan which presents peculiar advantages. CONTENTS. PAGB. Introduction . . . . . .1 The United States 18 The Eastern, or New England States . . 55 State of Maine ..... 58 State of New Hampshire . , . .61 State of Vermont ..... 65 Commonwealth of Massachusetts . . .70 State of Rhode Island .... 80 State of Connecticut . . . . .84 Middle States ..... 89 State of New York . . . . .92 State of New Jersey . . . .212 Commonwealth of Pennsylvania . . .217 State of Delaware ..... 230 State of Maryland . . . . .233 District of Columbia . . . .238 Southern States . . . . .242 Commonwealth of Virginia . . . 246 State of North Carolina . . . .257 State of South Carolina .... 263 State of Georgia . . . . .274 Florida Territory ..... 279 State of Alabama . . . . .284 State of Mississippi .... 289 CONTENTS. PAGE. State of Louisiana . . . . 295 Western States and Territories . . . 307 State of Ohio 312 Commonwealth of Kentucky . . . 321 State of Tennessee . . . . .326 State of Indiana ..... 331 State of Illinois . . . . .336 State of Michigan .... 342 State of Missouri . . , . .349 State of Arkansas . . . . 354 Wisconsin Territory . . . . .358 Western, or Indian Territory . . . 361 Missouri Territory ..... 364 Oregon Territory ..... 367 APPENDIX. Report of the Superintendent of the Census in the United States . . . . .37 Real and Personal Estate . . . ! 37 8 Churches . . . . . .380 Farms. Land improved and unimproved . ib. Domestic Animals ..... 383 Agricultural Produce. Wheat Rye Maize Oats Rice Tobacco Cotton Buckwheat Barley Potatoes Wine Hops Flax and Hemp Silk Sugar . . . . . 386 Canal Statistics . . . . .394 Emigration to New York for the Year 1852 . 397 Personal Census . 399 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, INTRODUCTION. NORTH AMERICA comprises that portion of the New World extending from 8 deg. to 70 deg. north latitude, and from 55 deg. to 168 deg. west longitude. The area of this vast region is ahout 7,200,000 square miles, exclusive of the islands lying west and north-west of Baffin's Bay arid Barrow's Strait. Presenting a hroad front to the Arctic Seas, it gradually expands in width to ahout 50 deg. north latitude, when it again con- tracts its dimensions until it terminates in the Isthmus of Darien. Its winding outline presents a great extent of sea coast, which is estimated to amount to 9,500 miles on the eastern, and somewhat more on the western side, exclusive of those on the frozen shores of the northern horder. Mountain ranges, peculiarly distinguished by their magnitude and continuity, pervade this quar- ter of the world. Those of North America consist of two great chains, the eastern and western ; the latter, or Rocky Mountain range, known also as the Chippawayan. Passing through Guatemala, from the Isthmus of Darien, it spreads out, iu 2 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Mexico, into extensive table lands, crowned by lofty volcanic peaks : running thence through the western regions of the United States, and the British possessions, it finally sinks to a level on the shores of the Polar Sea, westward of the Macken- zie river. Its extent is probably not less than 5,000 miles, and in its general course it is nearly parallel to the Pacific Ocean, forming the great dividing ridge, or line of separation, between the eastern and western waters, the principal of which have their origin in its rugged declivities. The only other extensive range is the Alleghany or Appalachian, which, running parallel to the eastern coast of the United States, throws off some irregular and rather slightly connected branches diverging into Canada, Labrador, and the vicinity of Hudson's Bay. This consists principally of two parallel chains, the Alleghany and the Blue Ridge. These, however, are not extensive in their range, nor do they attain the elevation of the great western chain. The rivers of America constitute perhaps her grandest natural features, or at least those in which she may claim pre-eminence over the other quarters of the globe. They are unequalled, both in their length of course, and in the vast masses which they pour into the ocean. The principal of these take their rise in the great western chain, from its eastern side, whence, being swelled by numerous streams, they roll, broad and spacious, across the great inte- rior plain, until they approach the eastern range of mountains : thence they derive a fresh and copious series of tributaries, till, bearing, as it were, the waters of half a continent, they reach the ocean. Thus, the Missouri, (which, notwithstanding the error which has given the name of the Mississippi to the united channel, is undoubtedly in a physical INTRODUCTION. 3 view, the main stream) takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, then flows eastward into the great cen- tral valley, where it is joined by the Mississippi, and there receives, from the Alleghany chain, the copious tribute of the Ohio. In its course thence southward, it receives tributaries both from the eastern and western range. The St. Lawrence and Mississippi Proper derive their ample stores, not from any mountain chain, but from that cold watery region of swamps and forests which forms the northern prolongation of the great central plain. The Mackenzie and Great Fish Rivers, which flow through the north into the Arctic Sea, have a long diversified course, but, from the barren regions which they traverse, are of. no commercial value. The lakes of North America are numerous and important ; they are not, however, mountain lakes, nor formed by mountain streams. They originate in those great wooded arid watery plains whence the St. Lawrence and Mississippi t;ke their rise. The chain of connected lakes on the upper course of the latter river, Ontario, Erie, Huron, Michi- gan, and Superior, form the largest bodies of fresh water in the world. Communicating with the sea by the broad channel of the St. Lawrence, and in a country whose population is rapidly increasing, they are becoming of the greatest importance to commerce. Similar lakes extend to the northward as far as the Arctic Sea ; the Lake of the Woods, the Athabasca, the Great Slave, and the Great Bear Lake ; but these, unconnected with any other sea, and frozen for the greater part of the year, cannot serve any commercial purpose. The plains of the New World form almost as great and remarkable an object as its mountains. In North America, of those more especially worthy 4 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. of attention, the first is tlie plain along the Atlantic, between the ocean and the eastern range of moun- tains. To that belongs the original territory of the United States. It is a region of natural forests ; of mixed, but rather poor soil, and of but moderate fertility. The second is that on the opposite side of the continent, between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean ; a country with a mild and humid atmosphere as far as 55 deg., but inhospitable beyond that latitude. The most extensive is the great central valley of the Mississippi, rich and well wooded on the east side; bare, but not un- fertile, in the middle; dry, sandy, and almost a desert on the west. This vast plateau is pro- longed, without interruption, from the Gulf of Mexico to the shores of the Polar Sea, so that one of its borders is covered with the palms and the splendid foliage of the tropics; while in the other, the last buds of arctic vegetation expire. The area of this great plain is estimated at 3,240,000 square miles. It was formerly believed, on the authority of Buffon, that the animals of America were inferior in size to those of the eastern continent. The researches of modern naturalists have not only refuted this error, but have established the fact, that where any difference of size exists in animals of the same class, the superiority, in most cases, is on the American side. The animal kingdom of North America embraces a considerable variety of Bpecies, some of which are not found in other parts of the world. Of the bear species, those peculiar to North America are the Grizzly, Barren, Ground, and Black Bears. The great Polar or White Bear is found also in the Arctic regions of Europe and Asia. Jn North America it inhabits the continent INTRODUCTION. 5 as far south as Labrador and Hudson's Bay ; its principal residence is on fields of ice, with which it frequently floats a great distance from land. These huge creatures feed mostly on animal sub- stances, and as they swim and dive well, they hunt seals and other marine anim ils with great success. The White Bear possesses prodigious strength, and often attacks sailors who visit the Arctic seas. It is also remarkable for its attachment to its young, and is of a dirty or yellowish white colour. The Grizzly Bear, the most powerful and dangerous animal of North America, inhabiting both sides of the Rocky Mountains, is, when full grown, reported to exceed 800 pounds in weight, and its strength so great that it has been known to drag to a con- siderable distance a buff.ilo weighing one thousand pounds ; the cubs of this species can climb trees, but the adult animal cannot : the hunter may thus escape, but the infuriaced beast will sometimes keep watch below, and thus confine his enemy for many hours. This is a carniverous species, but will sometimes eat vegetables The Barren-ground Bear receives its name from the circumstance of its inhabiting only that section of the continent called the Barren-lands, or grounds situate I north of 60 deg. ; this is a formidable animal, and is much dreaded by the Indians, who are very careful to avoid burning bones in their encampments, or any- thing that may attract its notice. It frequents the sea coast in autumn, in considerable numbers, for the purpose of feeding on fi?h. In size it is be- tween the Grizzly and Black Bear. The Black Bear of North America is different from the Euro- pean animal of the same name. It has a milder disposition, and lives more on vegetables : its favourite food is the different kinds of berries, and it will not, except from necessity, subsist on animal 6 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. substances. The Cinnamon Bear of the traders, and found in the vicinity of Hudson's Bay, is con- sidered only an accidental variety of the Black Bear. Of the deer kind there are several species not found in the old continent. The Moose Deer re- sembles the Elk of Europe, but is of a different species ; it is the largest of the deer kind found in America, and perhaps in the world, being in height to the shoulder full six feet, and weighs when full grown from 1 000 to 1 200 pounds ; it is a solitary animal, and the most shy and wary of all the deer species ; it was formerly found as far south as the Ohio river, but now occurs most frequently in the countries north of the great lakes, and in the un- settled parts of Canada, and also occasionally in the northern sections of New Hampshire, Maine, 7 TRODUCTION. 11 they aye of various kinds, as the hooded, harp, foetid, ursine, and great seal. Most of the birds of North America, and espe- cially those of the United States, are now rendered as familiar to the European naturalist as those of his own country ; for they have been more ably and more fully illustrated than those of any part of the world. Rapacious birds are here as numerous as in other parts of the earth, and of a great many different species, including eagles, vultures, hawks, falcons, owls, &c. The white-headed or bald- headed eagle is well known as being the chosen emblem of the American republic. It is common to both continents ; but, while it seems almost entirely confined to the arctic regions of the old world, it abounds in the milder regions of the United States in the new. Jt is notorious for its lawless habits; robbing the fish- hawk of its hard won victim, and even compelling the vulture to disgorge its filthy prey. The vultures are the great Californian vulture, black vulture, and tur- key-buzzard. The first seems to be confined to California and the adjoining regions w r est of the Rocky Mountains ; they build their nests in the most secret parts of the pine forests, and measure from four to five and a half feet in length. Their food is carrion or dead fish, and they will in no instance attack any living animal, unless it be wounded and unable to walk. In searching for their prey, they soar to a great height ; and on discovering a wounded deer, or other animal, they follow its track, until it sinks disabled to the ground. Although onfy one bird may be first in possession, it is soon surrounded by great numbers, who all fall upon the carcase, and devour it to a skeleton within an hour, even though it be a horse or a stag. The black vulture and turkey-buzzard are botU 12 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. well known, and numerous in the southern states of the American Union, where, notwithstanding their filthy habits, they are protected by law and common usage, being of great utility in devouring putrid animal matter, which would otherwise be highly offensive and injurious. The wild turkey is peculiar to America ; it is a fine large bird, of brilliant blackish plumage. It breeds with the domestic one ; and when the lat- ter is reared near the range of the former, it is sure to be enticed into the woods by it. Of this bird, the celebrated Dr. Franklin observed, " it would have been a much fitter emblem of our country than the white-headed eagle, a lazy, cowardly, tyrannical bird, living on the labours of others, and more suited to represent an imperial despotic go- vernment than the republic of America." Of the duck kinds, of which there are many species, the best known is the canvas-back. It is peculiar to America, and is more celebrated than any other for the excellent flavour of its flesh ; they are found mostly in Chesapeake Bay and the neigh- bouring rivers. In winter they are occasionally so numerous as to cover the water to the extent of several acres ; this bird is an expert diver, and lives on the bulbous root of a water grass, resem- bling celery in taste, to which is attributed its pe- culiar flavour; they dive in from six to eight feet of water, and are frequently attended by the wid- feon or bald-pate duck, who never dives himself, ut watches the rising of the canvas-back, and, before he has his eyes well opened, snatches the delicious morsel from his mouth, a%d makes off; on this account the two species live in continual contention. Perhaps the most characteristic of American birds is the humming-bird, remarkable alike for INTRODUCTION. i 3 its diminutive size and the brilliant metallic lustre of its plumage ; they are most numerous in South America, but are found in the northern continent as far north as 45 degrees. Vast flights of pigeons migrate periodically to different parts of the continent, frequently extend- ing for many miles on each side, darkening the entire atmosphere, and often requiring four or five days to pass over a particular place. Immense quantities are killed, without their numbers being perceptibly diminished. Of the birds of game, the principal are the grouse, pheasant, partridge, &c. The species of grouse are more numerous, and entirely distinct from those of Europe. The largest and most valu- able is the cock of the plains. Some other of the peculiar American birds are the mocking-bird, blue jay, and whip-poor will. Parrots and parro- quets are found in Mexico ; arid in the United States there is one species of parrot. The sea?, lakes, and rivers of North America swarm with a great variety of delicious fish. The cod, so well known in commerce, is -found only in the northern seas. Their great rendezvous is on the banks of Newfoundland, and other sand banks that lie off the coasts of the northern parts of the United States ; these situations they prefer on account of the number of worms produced in those sandy bottoms, which tempt them to resort there for food. Some conception may be formed of their amazing fecundity, from the fact that nearly ten millions of eggs have been counted in one fish of a moderate size? The mackerel and alewife fisheries, along the coast of the United States, also give em- ployment and food to great numbers of persons. The shad is taken in large quantities in all the ivers of the Atlantic states, and in the proper J4 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. season is highly esteemed. The salmon is also found in the northern rivers of the United States and Canada on both sides of the continent, and is especially plentiful in the Columbia River. The white fish, or litamig of the traders, is caught in all the great lakes, from Canada to the Arctic Ocean. It is a delicious article of food, and as many as 1000 barrels have been taken at a single fishery on Lake Superior in one year. The reptiles of America are numerous, and like the generality of this class in other parts of the world, the majority are apparently harmless, and some dan- gerous. In North America, the alligator does not occur north of the Carolinas and the Red River of Louisiana. In severe winters he buries himself in the mud, and lies in a torpid state. The rattle- snakes are peculiar to the New World, and are particularly formidable on account of the deadly venom of their bite. There are four or five species of this reptile, all of which reach the length of five or six feet. The common species of the United States is extremely numerous about the sources of the Columbia River. There are several kinds of land tortoises, but they are all of a moderate size. Some curious salamanders have been recently discovered, and the celebrated siren is an inhabitant of the muddy lakes of Georgia and South Carolina. This singu- lar reptile has long perplexed naturalists, some thinking it a tadpole or imperfect frog; it is now, however, fully ascertained to he an adult animal. The aboriginal Americans all constitute, at the present day, by their physical characters not less than by their languages, a race different from those known before the discovery of America, and pre- serve throughout this vast extent of country and variety of climates, the same essential chaorac- INTRODUCTION. 15 teristics. They have a copper colour, resembling that of rusty iron or cinnamon, coarse, straight black hair, high cheek bones, and sunken eyes ; it has been affirmed that they are without beards, but it is well ascertained that this is not the case naturally, but that most of them take great pains to pluck them out. Almost all the Indians near Mexico, and those on the north-west coast wear mustachios. The American Indians are generally erect and of fine forms, with few instances of de- crepitude or deformity ; they have cleaner limbs, not so muscular, and with less tendency to corpu- lence than the whites. As a race they have coun- tenances that are generally unjoyous, stern, and ruminating; it is with them either gloomy taci- turnity or bacchanalian revel. Their impassible fortitude and endurance of suffering, their con- tempt of pain and death, invest their character with a kind of moral grandeur. It is to be doubted, however, whether some part of his vaunted stoicism be not the result of a more than ordinary degree of physical insensibility. Like all ignorant people unable to trace the relation between results and causes, they are beyond all others superstitious. It may be laid down as an universal trait of Indian character. The warrior who braves' death a thou- sand times, and in every form in the fury of battle, carries with him to the combat a little charmed bag of filthy and disgusting ingredients, in which he places no little reliance or security against the balls and arrows that are directed against him. All savages in this region are hospitable; even the enemy whom they would have sought and slain far from their cabins, who presents himself fear- lessly there, claims and receives their hospitality. They accord to the cabin hearth the honours and the sanctity of an asylum. 16 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Since the introduction of. the horse by Europeans, many of the Indian tribes have acquired an as- tonishing degree of skill in the management of that noble animal, among these are the Pawnees, the Comanches, the Sioux, and the Aphaches, Shoshonees, Enneshoors, and other tribes ; some of these have also borrowed the use of fire arms from their European neighbours, but in general they have rejected the arts of peace and civilization. Perhaps there is no tribe among the American Indians so degraded that it lias not some notion of a higher power than man; and in general they seem to have entertained the idea of a Great Spirit as a master of life, in short, a Creator, and of an Evil Spirit, holding divided empire with him over nature ; many of them have priests, prophets, and sorcerers, in whose supernatural powers they trust, and most, if not all, appear to believe in a future state : many attempts have been made by benevo- lent persons to convert the aboriginal tribes to the Christian religion, to teach them the arts of civi- lized life, and to train them to habits of industry ; but so little has been the effects of these efforts that many do not hesitate to pronounce it impos- sible to engraft the European civilization on the Indian character. Some exceptions to this general failure occur in the United States, where some of the Cherokees and other tribes hold property, cul- tivate the ground, and practise the useful arts, as will be seen in the following pages. There are some circumstances, however, which invest the present missionary efforts with stronger probabilities of success than any that have preceded them. The number of Indians that are half- breeds, or mixtures of the blood of the whites, 13 great and continually increasing. These generally espouse, either from conviction or party feeling, INTRODUCTION. 17 the cause of civilization and Christianity. Instead of relying much on the hope of the conversion of adult- hunting and warrior savages, the effort if chiefly directed towards the young. North America is politically divided into the Republics of the United States, Texas, Mexico, and Guatemala, which occupy the central and southern parts of the continent. The northern, the eastern, and central parts, cohtain the posses- sions of Great Britain ; and the extreme north- western those claimed by Russia. The following estimates of the areas in square miles is prohahly as near an approximation to the truth as circum- stances will permit. United States . . . 2,300,000 square mileg. Texas, Mexico, and Guatemala 1,850,000 British Possessions . . 2,360,000 Russian Possessions . . 650,000 7,160,000 square mile*. After this short outline we Will proceed, in tha following pages, to describe more fully the various States in the Union, leaving for future volumes k - Canadn," and the other " British Possessions iu North America." TUB UNITED STATES. THE United States are the most important and interesting division of the western continent. They are distinguished for the democracy of their govern- ment, the rapid increase of the population, and for the intelligence, industry, and enterprise of the inhabitants. They occupy the most valuable and productive portion of North America, and rank amongst the most powerful commercial and wealthy nations of the globe. The United States are situated between 24 deg. 20 min. and 54 deg. 40 min. north latitude ; and 17 deg. east and 125 deg. west longitude, ex- tending through 29 deg. of latitude and 58 deg. of longitude, and comprise a superficial area of upwards of 2,300,000 square miles. The frontier line has a length of 10,000 miles, of which about 3,600 are sea-coast, and 1,200 lake coast. A line drawn across the Atlantic to the Pacific, through the centre, is about 2,500 miles in length. So vast a region of course includes a great variety of surface, soil, and climate. It abounds in navi- gable rivers, and a large proportion of it is sus- ceptible of cultivation, and is of a quality calculated UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 19 to repay the labour bestowed upon it, more than almost any otber region of the same extent in^the world; but a small portion of its surface is occu- pied by mountains, which, from their height or ruggedriess, forbid all attempts to render them productive in the means of subsistence to man. There are no great deserts, and few barrens ; no- thing like the vast sterile plains which exist in other parts of the world. The basins of the rivers are exceedingly productive : that of the Mississippi, including the Missouri, is undoubtedly the finest valley on the globe. . It is abundantly watered by streams, which not only give fertility to their borders, but are ready to waft the gifts of the soil to the ocean, and bring back to the inhabitants the products of all other climes. The soil returns an ample harvest for all that is planted in it, and the climate is favourable to almost every production of the earth that can sustain life, or increase its luxuries. Though lying within the temperate zone, the United States embrace a great variety of climate. In the northern parts the winters are long and severe ; snow often falls to the depth of several feet, and the cold is so piercing as to oblige the inhabitants to make very diligent provision against it. Spring returns here in April, and in summer the heat is great. In the southern parts, on the contrary, snow is seldom seen, ice is rarely formed in the rivers, and those fruits which shrink from a northern climate, and flourish only in warm regions, are scattered over the soil. In Georgia, the inhabitants may collect the figs which grow before the windows, and may load their tables with oranges, lemons, and other delicious fruits that grow in their gardens and groves, while in parts of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, 20 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. even peaches will not flourish. Between these extremities, as in Virginia, Kentucky, Missouri, and Illinois, there is a region adapted to the wine grape, which comes to greatest perfection in situa- tions removed from hoth the torrid and frigid zones, The United States are intersected by two prin- cipal and two subordinate ranges of mountains, the Rocky and Allegheny, the Ozark and Green Mountains. The Rocky Mountain or Chippewayan range, forms the great dividing ridge of North America, separating the waters which flow in opposite directions, towards the great oceans which bound the opposite sides of the continent. They are situated at a medium distance of about 600 miles from the Pacific, the highest rise above the line of perpetual congelation being estimated at about 12,000 feet in height. The Alleghany or Appalachian range, runs in a north easterly direction from the northern part of Alabama to New York, stretching along in uni- form ridges, at the distance of from 250 to 80 miles from the sea coast, and following its general direction. It occupies in breadth a space of from 60 to 120 miles, and separates the waters which run into the Atlantic Ocean, from those which flow into the Mississippi and its tributaries. The highest elevation in this range, and the most pro- minent in the Atlantic States, is Black Mountain, in the western part of North Carolina ; it is 6,476 feet in height. The Green Mountains extend from Connecticut, through Massachusetts and Vermont to Canada, dividing the Atlantic rivers from those of Lake Chana plain and the St. Lawrence. Some of the peaks of this range attain considerable elevation. In New Hampshire and Maine, are found many considerable heights unconnected with any sys- UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 21 tematic range, but are scattered in detached groups. The White Mountains, in New Hampshire, are the most elevated in New England. Mount Katahdin, or Ktaadin, near the centre of the state of Maine, is the highest in that state. The Ozark Mountains extend from Texas, through the western part of Arkansas, into the lead-mine region of Missouri. Their general direction is nearly similar to that of the Alleghany range and their altitude is reckoned to be about 2,000 feet above the sea. The territory of the United States is washed by three seas, the Atlantic Ocean on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The principal bays and sounds on the Atlantic border are Pasamaquoddy Bay, which lies between the state of Maine and the British province of New Brunswick ; Massachussets Bay, between Cape Anne and Cape Cod, on the coast of Massachusetts ; Long Island Sound, between Long Island and the coast of Connecticut ; Dela- ware Bay, between Cape May and Cape Henlopen ; Chesapeake Bay, which communicates with the ocean between Cape Charles and Cape Henry ; and Albemarle and Pamplico Sounds on the coast of North Carolina. In the Gulf of Mexico the principal bays are Chatham Bay, Appalachie Bay, and Mohill Bay. In the Pacific the Gulf of Georgia is the most important inlet on the western coast of the United States ; it is about 120 miles in length from north to south, and from 5 to 20 miles broad. Portions only of the great lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario belong to the United States ; the boundary between the British and American territories, passing through their centre, allots about an equal share of their vast waters to each 22 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. nation. Lake Michigan is wholly within the ter- ritory of the States ; it is about 320 miles in length, and from 55 to 60 miles wide. The country around the head of this lake is settling rapidly ; and the mildness of the climate, the excellence of the soil, and the probable speedy junction of its waters with those of the Mississippi, will shortly fill this portion of the country with population and wealth. The other lake- of any magnitude in the United States are Champluin in New York, Winnipiseogee in New Hampshire, and Moose Head in Maine. Lake Champlain separates the states of New York and Vermont, and is in extent about 140 miles, nearly north and south. It is connected with the Hudson River by the Champlain Canal, and with the St. Lawrence River by the Sorelle or Richelieu. Large and elegant steam-boats ply daily between Whitehall and St. John's, Lower Canada, which touch at the principal places, and numerous travellers are constantly passing and re- passing this route during the season of navigation. Lake Winnipiseogee is one of the most pictur- esque sheets of water in New England. It is very irregular in form, and contains a number of islands, some of which are cultivated. The lake is about twenty-two miles long, and from one to eight miles broad. Moose Head Lake is situated in the central parts of Maine. It is of an irregular form, about thirty-eight miles in length, and from two to twelve in breadth. The main branch of Kenne- beck River flows from it. Around it, at various distances, are situated some of the highest moun- tains in Maine. The rivers which water the territory of the United States are numerous, and some of them UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 23 among the most important in the world. No por- tion of the globe possesses greater facilities for in- land navigation and trade, or is more generally in- tersected with large and navigable streams. They may be divided into four great classes : 1st, The streams which rise on the east side of the Alle- ghany Mountains, and flow into the Atlantic Ocean ; 2d, Those south of the Alleghany range, which dis- charge themselves into the Gulf of Mexico ; 3d, The Mississippi and its wide tributaries, which drain the waters of the vast valley included between the Rocky and Alleghany ranges ; and 4th, The rivers which, rising on the western de- clivity of the Rocky Mountains, direct their course to the Pacific Ocean. The Penobscot is the largest river that has its course wholly in the state of Maine. It joins the Penobscot Bay between the towns of Penobscot and Prospect. It is navigable for vessels of con- siderable burden to Bangor, where navigation and the tide terminate. The course of this river is near 300 miles. Kennebeck River is the next largest in Maine. It is the outlet of Moose Head Lake, the most con- siderable in the state. It is navigable for vessels of 150 tons, forty miles from the sea. Its whole course is about 230 miles. Connecticut River rises in the highlands sepa- rating the United States from Canada, and flows into Long Island Sound after a course of upwards of 400 miles. It is navigable to Hartford for ves- sels of eight feet draught, also for smaller vessels more than 200 miles above Hartford. The head waters of this river are elevated 1 600 feet above Long Island Sound. Its banks present every variety of scenery magnificent mountains and hills, delight- ful valleys and meadows, unsurpassed in beauty 24 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. and fertility, and many of the most beautiful towns and villages in New England. The Hudson River rises west of Lake Cham- plain in numerous branches, and pursuing nearly a straight southerly course of about 320 miles, unites with the Atlantic below the city of New York. This is one of the most important rivers in the States. The navigation and commerce on its waters are very great, and annually increasing. By means of the Erie and Champlain Canals, it is connected with Lake Erie and the St. Lawrence river. It is navigable for ships of large burden to Hudson city, and for the largest steam -boats to Albany and Troy. Delaware river rises in the state of New York, and flowing south, separates Pennsylvania from New York and New Jersey, and falls into Dela- ware Bay, after a course of about 310 miles. It is .navigable for vessels of the greatest burden to Philadelphia, and for small craft to the head of the tide at Trenton, above which city it is navigable for small boats of eight or nine tons. Susquehannah River, one of the largest in Penn- sylvania, is formed by its north and west branches, which unite at Northumberland. Its north, or longest branch, rises in Otsego Lake, New York, from whence to its mouth is 460 miles. The Potomac River rises in two branches in the Alleghany Mountains, and forms, dnring its course to Chesapeake Bay, the boundary between Virginia and Maryland. It is navigable for vessels of large burthen to Washington city. Its length is about 335 miles. James River pursues a course of upwards of 400 miles, and unites with the south part of Chesa- peake Bay at Hampton Roads. It is navigable for sloops to Richmond, where the Great Falls formerly presented an obstruction, but a canal has been UMTED STATES OF AMERICA. . 25 made around them, and the river is now navigable 230 miles above the city. SavAnah River separates South Carolina from Georgia, and enters the Atlantic seventeen miles below Savannah, to which city it is navigable for vessels of large burden. Steam- boats ascend the river to Augusta Falls. The Mobile River is formed by the junction of the Alabama and Tombeckbee rivers, forty miles above Mobile. Steam- boats ascend to Montgomery, a distance, by the meanders of the river, of near 300 miles. The Mississippi is the largest river of North America, and one of the noblest in the world, watering a more fertile region, and having a longer course of uninterrupted navigation than any other known stream. Its course, taken in conjunction with its mighty auxiliary, the Missouri, is estimated at 4490 miles in length. The space drained by its waters exceeds 1,300,000 square miles, being up- wards of two- thirds of the whole territory of the United States. In no portion of the whole world has the triumph of art over the obstacles of nature been so complete. The introduction of steam navi- gation has been productive of immense advantages, and has been carried to a greater extent on this than on any other river. Mississippi Proper rises west of Lake Superior, in a dreary and desolate region, amidst lakes and swamps, and, after pursuing a south-east course of about 600 miles, reaches the Falls of St. Anthony, where it descends perpendi- cularly sixteen feet, and where are fifty-eight feet of rapids. Thence it flows a south-easterly, and then a southerly direction ; and after forming the boundary between Missouri, Arkansas Territory, and Louisiana, on the west, and Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Mississippi, on the east, discharge* c 26 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, its waters, through many mouths, into the Gulf of Mexico. It is nearly oOOO miles long, and ia navigable for steam -boats to the Falls of St. An^ thony. The following are the principal tributaries of the Mississippi from the west : The St. Peter's, which joins at Fort Snelling, is a stream of about 400 miles, flowing a south-east course. The Des Moines, a river of about 400 miles m length, enters the Mississippi about 130 miles above the Missouri, The Missouri enters the Mississippi River about eighteen miles above St. Louis, after a course of 3217 miles. Although it loses its name at its confluence with the u Father of Waters," it is much the longer stream of the two; but the Mis- sissippi, having been first discovered and explored, has retained its name to the Gulf of Mexico. The error being now past remedy, the Missouri must be considered as a tributary of the Mississippi. It is formed of numerous branches,' which rise among the Rocky Mountains. The mo^t remote are the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers. The only obstruction that occurs to its navigation is at the Great Falls, a distance of 2575 miles from the Mississippi. Here the river descends 362 feet in eighteen miles ; the descent is by four great pitches or cataracts of ninety-eight, nineteen, forty-nine, and twenty-six feet respectively. Next to Nia- gara these cataracts are considered to be the greatest in the world, the width of the river being about 1050 feet. About 100 miles above is the place called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. This river has been ascended by a steam-vessel 300 miles above the Yellow Stone, a distance of 3460 miles from the mouth of the Mississippi. The largest tributaries of the Missouri are, the Yellow Stone, of 1 1 00 miles in length, the Platte or Shallow River, of 1600 miles course, and the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 27 Kanzas, of 1200 mile* in length. They all me in the Rocky M MI n tains, arid flow through a flat prairie' country, inhabited by a widely scattered population, principally Indians. The Arkansas is, after the Missouri, the most considerable trihiitarv of the Mississippi from the west. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and its course is computed to be about 2000 miles. It enters the Mississippi river about 540 miles below the Missouri. Steam- boats can generally ascend this river to the mouth of the Canadian, its largest tributary, and occasionally to Cantonment Gibson, 640 miles fwn the Mississippi river. The Red River is the first tributary stream of any note which enters the Mississippi, in ascend- ing from its month. It has a course of nearly 1500 miles, and flows through immense prairies of a red soil. The principal tributaries of the Mississippi which flows into it from the eastward, are as follows : Chinpeway River, 200 miles in length, enters the Mississippi at the lower end of Lake Pepin. The Wisconsin River joins the Mississippi about four or five miles below the town of Prairie du Chien. In part of its course it approaches so near the Fox River of Green Bay, cis to leave a portage of only one a half mile*. It is one of the great natural channels of communication between the lakes and the Mississippi. The Illinois River enters the Mississippi 18 miles above the Missouri, after a course of 400 miles. It is nearly a quarter of a mile wide at its mouth, and has a remarkably smooth, gentle current. The Ohio River is the largest eastern tributary of the Mississippi. At its junction, and for 100 miles above, it is as large as the parent stream. 28 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. This river, from its commencement, affords the most delightful prospects. Tributaries, of roman- tic and beautiful diameter, come in at almost equal distances, as lateral canals. The Ohio is formed bv the union of the Alleghany and Monon- gahela Rivers at Pittsburg. It flows in a south- westerly direction for 945 miles, separating the States of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, from Vir- ginia and Kentucky, and falls into the Mississippi 193 miles below the Missouri. Its current is great, and is nowhere broken by any considerable falls, except at Louisville, in Kentucky, where the descent is twenty-two and a half feet in two miles. This obstruction is obviated by the Louisville and Portland Canal, which affords a passage to steam- boats of small draught at all seasons, to the upper parts of the river, at Pittsburg. We here introduce a description of one of those floods to which the large rivers in America are frequently liable. "Many of our larger streams," says Audubon, the celebrated American Naturalist, "such as the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Illinois, the Arkansas, and the Red River, exhibit at certain seasons the most extensive overflowings of their waters, to which the name of floods is more appropriate than the term freshets, usually applied to the sudden risings of smaller streams. If we consider the vast extent of country through which an inland naviga- tion is afforded, by the never-failing supply of water furnished by these wonderful rivers, we cannot suppose them exceeded in magnitude by any other in the known world. It will easily be imagined what a wonderful spectacle must present itself to the eye of the traveller who, for the first time, views the enormous mass of waters, collected from the vast central regions of our continent, UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 29 booming along, turbid and swollen to overflowing, in the broad channels of the Mississippi and the Ohio, the latter of which has a course of more than a thousand miles, and the former of several thousands. "To give you some idea of a Booming Flood of these gigantic streams, it is necessary t0 feet above its lowest level. The river, at this point, lias al- ready run a course of nearly 700 miles from its origin at Pittsburg, in Pennsylvania, during which it has received the waters of its numberless tribu- taries, and overflowing all the bottom-lands, or valleys, has swept along the fences and dwellings which have been unable to resist its violence. I could relate hundreds of incidents which might prove to you the dreidful effects of such an inun- dation, and which have been witnessed by thou- sands besides myself. I have known, for example, of a cow swimming through a window elevated at least seven feet from the ground, and sixty- two above low-water mark. The house was then sur- rounded by water from the Ohio, which runs in front of it, while the neighbouring country was overflowed ; yet the family did not remove from it, but remained in its upper portion, having pre- viously taken off the sashes of the lower windows, 30 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. and opened the doors. But let us return to tho Mississippi. " There tlie overflow is astoni-hing ; for, no sooner has the water readied the upper part of the banks, than it rushes out and overspreads the whole of the neighbouring swamps, presenting an ocean overgrown with stupendous forest trees. So audden is the calamity, that every individual, whe- ther man or beast, has to exert his ingenuity to enable him to escape from the dreadful element. The Indian quickly removes to the hills, the cattle and game swim to the different stripes of land that remain uncovered in the midst of the flood, or at- tempt to force their way through the water until they perish from fatigue. Along the banks of the river, the inhabitants have rafts ready made, on which they remove themselves, their cattle, and their provisions, and which they then fasten with ropes or grape vines to the larger trees, while they contemplate the melancholy spectacle presented by the current, as it carries off their houses and wood- yards, piece by piece. Some who have nothing to lose, and are usually known by the name of Squat- ters, take this opportunity of traversing the woods in canoes, for the purpose of procuring game, and particularly, the skins of animals, such as deer and bear, which may be converted into money. They resort to the low ridges surrounded by the waters, and destroy thousands of deer, leaving the flesh to putrify. " The river itself, rolling its swollen waters along, presents a spectacle of the most imposing nature. Although no large vessel, unless propelled by steam, can now make its way against the current, it ia seen covered by boats laden with produce, which, running out from all the smaller streams, float silently towards the city of New Orleans, their UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 31 owners meanwhile not very well assured of finding a landing- place even there. The water is covered with yellow foam and pumice, the latter having floated from the Rocky Mountains of the north- west. The eddies are larger and more powerful than ever. Here and there tracts of forest are ob- served undermined, the trees gradually giving way, and falling into the stream. Cattle, horses, bears, and deer, are seen at times attempting to swim across the impetuous mass of boiling and foaming water ; whilst here and there a vulture or an eagle is seen perched on a bloated carcass, tearing it up in pieces, as regardless of the flood as on former occasions it would have been of the numerous sa- vages and planters with which the surface of the river is covered when the water is low. Even the steamer is frequently distressed. The numberless trees and logs that float along break its paddles, arid retard its progress. Besides, it is on such occasions difficult to procure fuel to maintain its fires. "Following the river in your canoe, you reach those parts of the shore that are protected against the overflowing of the waters, and are called Levees. There you find the whole population of the dis- trict at work repairing and augmenting those arti- ficial barriers, which are several feet above the level of the fields. Every person appears to dread the opening of a crevasse, by which the waters may rush into his fields. In spite of all exertions, how- ever, the crevasse opens, the water bursts impetu- ously over the plantations, and lays waste the crops which were so lately blooming in all the luxuriance of spring. It opens up a new channel, which, for aught I know to the contrary, may carry its waters to the Mexican Gulf. ** 1 have floated ou the Mississippi and Ohio 32 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. when thus swollen, and have in different places visited the submersed lands of the interior, pro- pelling a light canoe by the aid of a paddle. In this manner I have traversed immense portions of the country overflowed by the waters of these rivers ; arid particularly, whilst floating over the Mississippi bottom-lands, 1 have been struck with awe at the sight. Little or no current is met with, unless when the canoe passes over the bed of a bayou. All is silent and melancholy, unless when the mournful bleating of the hemmed-in deer reaches your ear, or the dismal scream of an eagle or a raven is heard, as the foul bird ri^es, disturbed by your approach, from the carcass on which it was allaying its craving appetite. Bears, cougars, lynxes, and all other quadrupeds that can ascend the trees, are crouched among their top branches. Hungry in the midst of abundance, although they see floating around them the animals on which they usually prey, they dare not venture to swim to them. Fatigued by the exertions they have made in reaching the dry land, they will then stand the hunter's fire, as if to die by a ball were better than to perish amid the waste of waters. On occasions like this, all these animals are shot by hundreds-. <4 Opposite the city of Natchez, which stands on a bluff bank of considerable elevation, the extent of inundated land is immense, the greater portion of the tract lying between the Mississippi and the Red River, which is more than thirty miles in breadth, being under water. The mail- bag has often been carried 'through the immersed forest, in a canoe, for even a greater distance, in order to be forwarded to Natchitochez. " But now observe this great flood gradually subsiding, and again see the mighty changes which UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 33 it has effected. The waters have now been carried into the distant ocean. The earth is everywhere covered hy a deep deposit of muddy loam, which, in drying, splits into deep and narrow chasms, pre- senting a reticulated appearance, and from which, as the weather hecomes wanner, disagreeable, and at times noxious, exhalations arise, and fill the lower stratum of the atmosphere as with a dense fog. The banks of the river have almost every- where been broken down in a greater or less de- gree. Large streams are now found to exist where none were formerly to be seen, having forced their way in direct lines from the upper parts of the lands. These are, by the navigator, called short- cuts. Some of them have proved large enough to produce a change in the navigation of the Missis- sippi. If I mistake not, one of these, known by the name of the Grand Cut off, and only a few miles in length, has diverted the river from its natural course, and has shortened it by fifty miles. The upper parts of the islands present a bulwark consisting of an enormous mass of floated trees of all kinds, which have lodged there. Large sand banks have been completely removed by the im- petuous whirls of the water, and have been deposit- ed in other places. Some appear quite new to the eye of the navigator, who has to mark their situa- tion and bearings in his log-book. The trees on the margins of the banks have in many parts given way. Tbev are seen bending over the stream like the grounded arms of an overwhelmed army of giants. Everywhere are heard the lamentations of the farmer and planter, whilst their servants and themselves are busily employed in repairing the damages occasioned by the floods. The squat- ter is seen shouldering his rifle, and making his way through the morass in search of his lost stock 3 G 2 34 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, to drive the survivors home, and save the skins of the drowned. New fences have everywhere to be formed ; even new houses must be erected, to save which from a like disaster, the settler places them on an elevated platform, supported by pillars made of the trunks of trees. The lauds must be ploughed anew ; and if the season is not too far advanced, a crop of corn and potatoes may yet be raised. But the rich prospects of the planter are blasted. The traveller is impeded in his journey, the creeks and smaller streams having broken up their banks in a degree proportionate to their size. A bank of sand, which seems firm and secure, suddenly gives way beneath the traveller's horse, and the next moment the animal is sunk in the quicksand, either to the chest in front, or over the crupper behind, leaving its master in a situation not to be envied. "Unlike the mountain torrents and small rivers of other parts of the world, the Mississippi rises but slowly during these floods, continuing for seve- ral weeks to increase at the rate of about one inch in the day. When at its height it undergoes little fluctuation for some days, and after this it subsides as slowly as it rose. The usual duration is from four to six weeks, although on some occasions it is protracted to two months. " If the streamlets of the European continent afford illustrations of the formation of strata, how tnucb more must the Mississippi, with its ever- shifting sand banks, its crumbling shores, its enor- mous masses of drift timber, the source of future beds of coal, its extensive and varied alluvial de- posits, and its mighty mass of waters rolling sud- denly along, like the flood of eternity." The Cumberland River rises in the mountains, on the eastern boundary of Kentucky. At high UNJTK1) ST.vTFS Or AMERICA. 35 water it is navigable for boats almost to its source, and for steamboats to Nashville at all reasons. Tennesse River is formed by the union of several large blanches, which, rising in the mountainous country in Western Virginia and North Carolina unite in one in the vicinity of Knoxville, enters the Ohio 46 miles above the Mississippi, and 12 below the Cumberland. Its entire course from the source of its longest branch is 850 miles dis- tant from the Ohio. This is the most important of all the tributaries of the Ohio, and is navigable for steamboats to Florence, at the foot of the Muscle Shoals. The Yazoo, the most southern of the principal eastern tributaries of the Mississippi, bas a course of 200 miles, and discharges its waters into the Mississippi, about twelve miles above the Walnut Hills. The most considerable river on tbe Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains is the Columbia or Oregon. Its bead waters interlock with the Arkansas, Rio del Norte, &c. ; it is about 1,400 miles in length ; its principal branches are Lewis* or Saptin River, 1,000 milesin extent ; Clark's or Flat Head River, TOO miles long, M'Gillivray's, Okinagan, &c. Fort George or Astoria. Fi:rt Vancouver, and others, on these waters, are trading establishments belong- ing to the British Hudson's Bay Company. Ves- sels, of 300 tons may ascend the Columbia 125 miles, and large sloops may go up to the head of tide, 183 miles from the ocean. In tbe United States MINERALS abound in great variety and profusion. Iron is very generally dif- fused, and is very abundant. Lead, lime-stone, and coal abound in quantities supposed to be inex- baustible. Gobi has been found to a considerable amount in Virginia, North and South Carolina, 3$ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee. The most valuables mines are in North Carolina and Georgia. The lead mines of Missouri, Illinois, and Wisconsin, are said to be the richest in quality in the world; and the quantity of that metal extracted from the ore, within the last few years, ha^ been so great as to exclude almost entirely the foreign article from the American market. Salt springs abound in many parts of the Union, and large quantities are manufactured in the States of New York, Western Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, and Illinois ; it is also made from 8ea water in some parts of New Kngland. The whole amount made is stated to be about 7,000,000 bushels annually. The United States form a federal republic. Each of the States is independent, and has the ex- clusive control of all concerns merely local ; but the defence of the country, the regulation of com- merce, and all the general concerns of the con- federacy, are committed, by the constitution, to a general government. The trainers of this far-famed constitution have.committed a piece of the most absurd political buffoonery that has ever been ex- hibited to the world. E ids of the States are de- clared independent, and in support of this indepen- dence have several times shaken the whole Union to its very bane, and had it not been for the timely concession of the constituted authorities who found themselves without any authority whatever, the United States would long ere this have been the Disunited States of America. As it is, it is a specimen of as pretty apiece of what may be called legal quackery as is to be found in any other quarter of the globe. The States have not failed to take advantage of these rights; and some of UNITED STATES OF AMEUICA. 37 them have even shown a pugnacious disposition to defend them. The legislative power is vested in a Congress, consisting of a Senate and House of Represen- tatives. The Senate is composed of two members from each State, chosen every two years, for a period of six years, so that one third of the Senate is renewed biennially. The members of the House of Representatives are chosen every two years, each State being entitled to a number proportionate to its population, in a ratio, in the States which do not admit of slavery, of one to every 47,700 in- habitants ; and in the (free I ) States, where there are slaves, of one for every 47,700 of the free white population, and one for every 79,500 slaves. The number of representatives is now about 250 ; but we are at a loss to discover the duties of those members who represent the three million slaves in this happy country where freedom was established throughout her whole extent at the period she burst the yoke of the mother country. This is another specimen of the jugglery that has been practised in the framing of this beautiful constitu- tion ; and never can we consider the United States of America to be that free and enlightened nation it pretends to be till such time as the abominable practice of slavery the trafficking in the blood and misery of the poor negro is entirely abolished. The system is a complete contradiction to their own republican spirit of equality. An intelligent writer remarks, upon the authority of travellers of veracity, that the slaves in the United States have been degraded to the condition of brutes; have been deprived of all legal or natural rights; and impediments of every description have been place-l in the way of their ever attaining either civilization or freedom. The number of slaves 38 UNITED STATUS OP AMERICA. cannot be fewer than 3,000,000, about a third of whom are under 10 years of age, and about another third from 10 to 24. This large mass of degraded humanity is found in the Southern or slave-holding States, chirfly in South Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana, in which sugar, cotton, tobacco, and oilier products of warm climates 'are raised. The Northern States of tin* Union are now free from slavery. One by one they gradually re- linquished the horrid traffic by acts of the legisla- ture ; and in this portion of A m erica the enlightened portion of the community hold the system of slavery in just detestation, and are anxious for its total extirpation from the country ; but we murh fear their most strenuous efforts will be unavailing against the selfish and inhuman feelings displayed by the Southern States, where the profits derived from slave labour is immense, as we have else- where shown. But there are upwards of 500.000 free persons of colour, both in the slave- holding and other States, and we are sorry to say tluit this class of persons are but little removed, in point of estimation, above those in actual slavery. What- ever be their education, their intelligence, their wealth, or the propriety of their behaviour, they are carefully excluded from the society of the whites, must attend their own places of worship, and submit to all kinds of contumely, besides being in some of the States subjected to severe and tyran- nical laws highly injurious to their interests as free citizens; for example, in South Carolina, it is contrary to law that free persons of colour should he educated ; they are incompetent witnesses in any case where the rights of white persons are concerned ; their trials are conducted by a justice of peace, without the benefit of a jury ; and if any person of colour is brought in a vessel, he is imme- UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 39 diately committed to prison till the ship is ready again to proceed to sea the captain of the vessel paying for his detention. But the poor slaves are in a still worse situation ; for though their evidence is in no case admissible against whites, the affirmation of free persons of colour, or their fellow-slaves, is received against them ; and if any person is discovered as having attempted to educate a slave, he is severely punished by fine or impri- sonment ; and if tbe least symptom ot insubordina- tion appears on the part of the slave, lie is sent to jail, where he is whipped or otherwise punished as his master desires. It is likewise expressly prohibited for any one, in public or private, in the pulpit or on the stage, to do or say any thing to excite discontent among the slaves, under the penalty of a heavy fine, or imprisonment perhaps for years. The consequence is, the newspapers in these States never dare utter a syllable in favour of the slaves, or the usage they receive. The liberty of the press and the liberty of speech in the slave- holding States are totally unknown ; and it is only by means of intelligent travellers that the world has been made aware of the character of slavery in the Southern States of America, where the bru- tality of the Dutch, and the cruelty of the Spaniards, seem to have been nothing to the callous overbear- . ing tyranny of the whites in these States. The judiciary is composed of a Supreme Court, of one chief and six associate judges ; of 33 Dis- trict Courts of one judge each, except that six of the States are divided into two districts each, and of seven Circuit Courts, composed of the judge of the District, and one of the judges of the Supreme Court. The executive power is vested in a President, who, along with the Vice- President is chosen for 40 UNITED STATES <>F AMERICA. four years, by electors from all the States. The principal subordinate officers of the executive de- partment are the Secretaries of State, of the Trea- sury, of War, and of the Navy, the Post master General, and the Attorney General. The Presi- dent must be a native born citizen, or have been a citizen at the adoption of the constitution, of 35 years of age, and have resided in the United States 14 years. The present constitution was adopted in 1789, and has since been amended. It secures to the people the grand principles of 'freedom, liberty of conscience in matters of religion, liberty of the j>ress, trial by jury, and the right of choosing or being chosen to office. By the peopU is here evi- dently meant the white people ; it will be long ere the grand principles of American freedom will permit a coloured native either the liberty of con- science, or being chosen to office. The principal executive officers are the Secre- taries of State, of War, and of the Navy, the Post- master General and the Attorney General. They are removable at the will of the President, and, with the Vice- President form the cabinet. The Secretary conducts tbe negociations with foreign powers, and corresponds with the public ministers of the United States abroad, and with those of foreign countries. He has the charge of the govern- ment seal, preserves the originals of laws and treaties, and of the public correspondence growing out of the intercourse between the United States and foreign nations ; he grants passports to Ameri- can citizens visiting foreign countries, has the con- trol of the patent office, and preserves the evidence of copyrights. There are attached to the Depart- ment of State a Diplomatic Bureau, a Consular Bureau, a Home Bureau, the Archives, and tbe Patent Office. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 41 The Treasury department was created in 178&. The secretary superintends the fiscal affairs of the government ; he is required to report annually to Congress the state of the finances, and recommend such measures as he thinks proper for improving the condition of the revenue. The Treasury de- partment comprises the offices of the secretary, two comptrollers, five auditors, the registrar, the treasurer, and the solicitor of the treasury. The receipts into the treasury of the United States is chiefly derived from duties on imports, the sales of public lands, hank stock, post offices, lead mines, ort. Everything in these navy yards is conducted \vith admirable judgment, for the plain reason that the management of the navy is a department with which the democrats, everywhere else triumphant, never venture to interfere. There is at least a glimmering of good sense in this forbearance ; as it must be evident that the principles of government winch are applicable to a civil community must be totally inexpedient in a man of war. The moment a sailor is afloat he must relinquish his indepen- dence, and cease to be a free man, both in word and deed. Every ship is literally a species of des- potism, and the existence of any thing like a deli- berative body on board is utterly incompatible with safety. It is not easy to explain how those men, accustomed to liberty and equality on shore, can so readily submit to the rigours of naval discipline and blind obedience ; but such is the case. The chief agricultural occupations in the Eastern States, are grazing and the dairy. The Middle and Western States are principally devoted to the culti- vation of wheat and Indian corn ; and the Southern to that of cotton, sugar, rice, and tobacco. Slave la- bour is chiefly employed in the Southern, and some of the Middle and Western States. The cotton crop is estimated at about 450 000,000 of pounds annually, a considerable quantity of which is ex- ported to Great Britain, as we may observe from the following statement published by an eminent mercantile firm in Liverpool : " In the prosperous year 1846, the consumption of American cotton for nine months amounted to 1,894,000 bales, and dwindled down to 1,360,000 bales for the same period in the famine year of 1847. The year of 4(5 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. revolutions, 1848, only permitted to advance ngain to 1,567.000, but upon tranquillity having been restored in ^49, it rose to the unexampled extent of 2,005,000 bales." Tobacco is estimated at 80,000 hogsheads, sugar, 100.000 hogsVads, and molasses, 03.000 hogsheads annually. The amount of bread stuffs raised in the country it is impossible to estimate with any degree of certainty, but it no doubt reaches several million barrels. The manufactures of the United States are con- siderable, and rapidly increasing. The eastern and middle States, being most abundantly supplied with water power, are most extensively engaged in ma- nufactures, especially of cotton, woollen, iron, glass, wood, &c. Most of the American manufactures are designed for home consumption, yet they annu- ally export to the amount of 12,000.000 dollars. The present annual value of manufactures in the United States is computed at 400,000.000 dollars; and the capital invested exceeds 1,200,000. The manufactures of cotton goods amount to upwards of 60 millions of dollars ; woollen, 80 mil- lions; leather and its manufactures, 50 millions; cables and cordage, paper, glass-ware, 7 millions each; hats, caps, bonnets, &c., 20 millions; cabinet- ware, 12 millions; soap and candles, 15 millions; and of manufactured tobacco and refined sugars, each about 3] million dollars. It is stated that in 1835 no fewer than 4,000 distilleries had been stopped by the progress of temperance reform, yet there are still vast quantities of these poisonous liquors distilled from corn, rye, and molasses, to tha amount of about 50 millions of dollars. The commerce of the United States is, next to Great Britain, the largest in the world. It con- sists principally in the exchange of agricultural produce for the manufactures of other countries, UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 47 and the productions of tropical climates. All vessels engaged in the foreign trade are registered by the collector of the district to which they belong, and those employed in the coasting trade and fish- eries are enrolled and licensed by the same officer. The annual value of the imports is estimated at 210.000,000 dollars; and the exports at 170,000,000 dollars. The most important articles of exports are cot- ton, tobacco, bread stuffs, the produce of the fisheries, staves, shingles, naval stores, oak-bark, beef and other agricultural products, skins and furs, flax seed, 500,755 ; and now, will exceed 650,000. The city of Portland is the largest and most important place in the State. It is beautifully situated on Casco Bay, is well laid out and hand- somely built, and has a safe and capacious harbour, which is defended by two forts. Upwards of 40,000 tons of shipping belong to the port, and the duties collected exceed 200,000 dollars annually. The population exceeds 24,000. Augusta, the capital of the State, occupies both sides of the Kennebeck river, fifty miles from its mouth ; it contains a handsome State-house of granite, and an United States Arsenal. Below Augusta are Hallo wel and Gardiner, both flourish- ing towns ; and about fifteen miles from the sea is Bath, noted for its ship -building. Some of the other principal towns in Maine, are Eastport, Machias, Calais* Orono, Belfast, Brunswick, Saco, and York. 61 STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE!. THIS State is bounded on the north by Lower Canada ; on the east, by Maine and the Atlantic Ocean ; south, by Massachusetts ; and west, by Vermont It is in length, from north to south, 160 miles; and from east to west, 70 miles is about the average breadth. It is, in area, 8,500 square miles. The sea-coast of this State, from Piscataqua Harbour to the south boundary is but eighteen miles in extent. The country on the coast is level ; in the interior, the surface is greatly diversified by hills and valleys, and contains several mountains of consi- derable height ; among which are the White Moun- tains, the most elevated of any in the New England States. The other considerable elevations are Moosehillock, Monadnock, Kearsarge, Sunapee, Ossipee, &c. The White Mountains are distinguished by the names of Washington, Franklin, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Pleasant. Mount Washing- ton is 6,428 feet in height. They are covered with snow ten months in the year, and are often seen from a great distance at sea, and frequently before any intermediate land, although they are at least sixty- five miles, in the nearest direction, from the coast. The wild and sublime character of their f>2 UNITED STATES OF AMERK'A. scenery causes them to be annually visited by numerous travellers. The ascent to their summits is attended with considerable fatigue, but has been surmounted in several instances by ladies. The view is rendered uncommonly grand and pictur- esque by the magnitude of the elevation, the variety and extent of the surrounding scenery, and, above all, by the huge and desolate piles of rocks extend- ing to a great distance in every direction. In the western pass of these mountains there is a remark- able gap, called the Notch, which is considered one of the grandest natural curiosities in the United States. To an admirer of the wonders of nature, the passage through the Notch, and the views from the summit, afford a rich repast. Though inferior to the Andes or the Alps in elevation, yet they display the grandest mountain scenery, surpassing everything of the kind to be seen elsewhere in this country. The principal rivers of New England have their origin, either wholly or in part, in this State. These are the Connecticut, Merrimack, Andros- coggin, Saco, and Piscataqua. The other most considerable streams are the Upper and Lower Amonoosuck, Sugar River, Ashuelot, Contoocook, Magallaway, and Nashua. The principal lakes are the Winnipiseogee, Umbagog, Osipee, Suna- pee, Squam, and Newfound-lake. The inhabitants of New Hampshire are princi- pally engaged in agriculture : the chief products are Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, flax, &c. ; horses and cattle, beef, pork, butter, cheese, &c., are largely exported. There are some large manu- facturing establishments, chiefly in the southern parts of the State, viz., 60 cotton and 35 woollen mills, 615 grist mills, 963 sawmills, 22 oil mills, 17 paper mills, 240 fulling mills, and 247 carding STATE OP NEW HAMPSHIRE. 63 mills. Manufactures are also carried on in families to a considerable extent ; and several vessels are employed in the Bank and shore fisheries ; still many of the inhabitants leave the State every year in search of employment elsewhere. The mineral resources of New Hampshire are not great. Copper is found at Franconia, and iron is abundant in Lisbon and Franconia ; plumbago or black lead also occurs in several places, particu- larly at Bristol. A fine grained granite, which is quarried in many places, affords an excellent build- ing material. The forest affords abundance of excellent timber, and the white pine sometimes attains the height of 2oO feet, with a straight trunk six feet and upwards in diameter. About eight miles from the coast are the Isles of Shoals, belonging partly to New Hampshire and partly to Maine. They lie between Portsmouth and Newbury-port, and are hardly more than a cluster of rocks rising above the water. The in- habitants are about one hundred ; they live solely by fishing, and in connexion with those of the shore in their immediate neighbourhood, who fol- low the same mode of life, are the most rude and uncivilised beings in New England, except the Indians. Efforts, however, have been made to improve their condition, and they have now a meeting house, school, &c. Common schools are established by law through- out the State, and are supported in part by town taxes, in part by school lands, or funds arising from the sale of them, and belonging to the towns, and in part also by the proceeds of certain State taxes ; the number of school-houses in the State exceeds 1,600 ; and there are about 40 academies, attended by upwards of 1,600 pupils. Dartmouth College, in Hanover, is a well endowed institution, 64 UNITED STATES OP AMKRICA. and affords instruction in the common brandies taught in the New England colleges. The princi- pal religious denominations are Congregationalists, Baptists, and Methodists; with a few Friends, Presbyterians, Episcopalians, and Catholics. The population which was, in 1830, 269,328 ; in 1840, 294,495; cannot now be less than 325,000. Portsmouth, the only sea-port, and the largest town in the State, is pleasantly situated on the Piscataqua, three miles from the sea. It has one of the finest harbours in the world, affording 40 feet of water in the channel at low tide, and being easily accessible to vessels of large size, arid com- pletely landlocked. It is protected by several forts. The tides rise ten feet. The town stands on a peninsular elevation, sloping towards the har- bour, and is well built. It contains several churches and banking houses, the county buildings, &c., and is well supplied with good water. Two wooden bridges have been built across the Piscataqua, one of which is 1,750 feet long. There is here a Navy- Yard belonging to the United States, situated on Navy Island, on the east side of the river. Popu- lation 13,000. Concord, the capital of the State, on the west side of the Merrimack River, is handsomely built ; has the State House, State Prison, both of granite, besides banks, churches, hotels &c ; population 5,000. In the south east part of the State, ar several towns largely engaged in manufactures, viz., Dover, Somers worth, Newmarket, and Exeter. These are all situated on navigable rivers, furnish- ing fine mill seats and easy communication with the sea. Nasbua, near tbe south line of the State, contains several large cotton mills, with a popula- tion of nearly 10,000 : Hanover, (the seat of Dart- mouth College) Haverhill, and Lancaster are STATE OP VERMONT. 65 thriving towns of between 5,000 and 6,000 inha- bitants each ; and Amhurst and Keene are neat towns between the Merrimack and Connecticut Rivers, with rapidly increasing populations. STATE OF VERMONT. VERMONT is bounded north by Lower Canada ; east by New Hampshire ; south by Massachusetts ; west by New York ; from which it is separated, in part, by Lake Champlain. It is 157 miles in length, from north to south ; 90 miles in breadth on the northern, and 40 on the southern boundary ; and contains an area of 10,212. square miles, or 6,535,680 acres. The Green Mountains, from which the State derives its name, on account of the evergreens with which they are covered, occupy a large part of the State ; and most of its surface is uneven. The range passes through its whole length, about half way between Lake Champlain and the Connecticut River. From these mountains many streams take their rise : the most important are Otter Creek, Union River, La Moile, and Missisque, which empty into Lake Champlain, on the west ; the White, Pasump- sic, and West Rivers, which flow into the Connec- ticut, on the east. The scenery of this State is romantic and beauti- 66 . BKITI-D STATES OF AMERICA. ful ; the air pure and healthful ; and the natives industrious, intelligent, and hospitable. The soil is fertile, and all sorts of grain, suited to the climate, are produced in great abundance. Dark, rich, and loamy, it is admirably calculated to sustain drought, and affords the finest pasturage of any State in the Union. Wool is an important product. Cattle of various kinds are raised with great facility ; and nowhere is finer beef to be seen than is fed on the rich white clover pastures of Vermont. The butter and cheese are well known for their excellence. Vermont is entirely in the interior; yet, by the system of internal improvement, the Champlain Canal, and the lake, vessels and steam-boats have brought her territory in contiguity with the sea. Part of the trade goes by canal to Albany, and part down the lake to Montreal. Much of that which formerly went to Boston and Hartford, is now drawn by the Champlain Canal to New York. This canal has been of incalculable advantage to the State. Iron occurs in great abundance, and is exten- sively wrought. Sulphuret of iron, or pyrites, is found at Shrewsbury, from which 3,000,000 pounds of copperas are annually manufactured, worth from 60,000 to 70,000 dollars. About twenty cotton- mills produce annually 3,500,000 yards of cloth, and 112,000 pounds of yarn. Do- mestic fabrics of linen and woollen are made in almost every family. The constitution of Vermont was amended in 1836, by the establishment of two houses, styled the Senate and House of Representatives. The legislative house, the governor, lieutenant-governor, and executive council, are chosen annually by the people. Each town has a right to send a repre- STATE OF VERMONT. ()7 sentative to the general assembly. The judges are chosen annually by that body. The council of censors is chosen once every seven years, for the term of one year, by popular vote. It is their duty to examine whether there have been any vio- lation of the constitution, and whether the legisla- tive and executive branches have done their duty, and also to propose any alteration in the constitu- tion. The towns are divided into school districts, each of which is required by law to support a school at least three months during the year. An annual tax is levied for their support, and the rent of the reserves of school land in each township, called here school rights, is also distributed among the districts, in proportion to the number of children in each, to aid in the same purpose. The number of the school districts is 1612. There are thirty aca- demies and county grammar schools, for the sup- port of which similar reservations were made ; and the university of Vermont, at Burlington, is en- dowed in the same way. Middlebury College has been founded by private funds. The most numer- ous religious denominations are the Congregation- al ists, Baptists, and Methodists ; and there are some Episcopalians, Universalists, Christians, and Roman Catholics. The State is divided into thir- teen counties. The population, in 1830, was 280,657 ; in 1840, 205,545; and in 1850, it was computed at 340,000. The capital of the State is the little town of Montpelier, situated in a wild and rugged region at the junction of the north and south branches of the Union River. Here is a handsome State- house of granite, together with the public build ings of the county. The population of the town is about 3000. West of the mountains are several 68 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. flourishing towns, which enjoy the advantage of an easy communication with Lake (jhamplain, and through it, with the Hudson and St. Lawrence Rivers. St. Alban's is a neatly built town on a small bay, with an active and increasing trade, and containing 3500 inhabitants. Farther south is Burlington, the largest town in the State, and the principal commercial place on the lake. It is plea- santly situated on a gently rising slope, overlooking the lake, and it has an excellent harbour. Here are the county buildings, and the University of Yermont, and at the Falls of the Union River, there are some manufactories. The population is 5760. The city of Yergennes, with 1500 inhabitants, is accessible to lake vessels. The falls on the river afford some good mill seats. Above Yergennes is Middlebury, which contains some mills and a college. Marble of a good quality is quarried here. Population, 4368. Higher up the river is Rutland, containing quarries of marble, several manufactur- ing establishments, and the public buildings of the county, with 3752 inhabitants. On the same side of the mountains, in the southern part of the State, is Bennington, in the neighbourhood of which are found limestone, marble, and iron. Here are some mills and iron-works, and a population of 4319. Crossing the mountains, and entering the rich valley of the Connecticut, we find a number of thriving towns, and neat villages, lining its fertile meadows. By means of several canals, boats are enabled to ascend the river above Newbury ; the principal of these cuts is at Bellow's Falls, where a fall of fifty feet is overcome by nine locks, and an excavation of half a mile in length. Brattle- boro' is a busy place, of 3000 inhabitants, and con- taining some manufactories and a lunatic asylum. Winder is a neat town, in a picturesque situation. STATK OF VERMONT. 69 A small stream, which runs through the town, serves to carry the machinery of several manufac- turing establishments ; and there is a State prison, built of granite, conducted on the Auhurn plan. Population, 4324. At the little village < f Bellow's Fall, the river is suddenly contracted from 300 to 16 or 20 feet wide, and rushes with great impe- tuosity through a narrow chasm cut in the solid rock, having a fall of nearly fifty feet in half a mile. Woodstock, with 4304 inhabitants, lies a little off from the river ; and higher up, but on the Con- necticut, is Norwich : civil engineering, and other practical sciences, receive particular attention in the institution here, styled the Norwich University. 70 COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. THIS State is bounded north, by Vermont and New Hampshire ; east, by the Atlantic Ocean ; south, by Rhode Island and Connecticut; and west, by New York. The average extent from north to south is seventy miles, and from east to west, 140 ; area, 8500 square miles. The Green Mountains range through the central parts of the State from north to south. These mountains, in their whole extent, abound in noble elevations, dark green forests, pleasant and sheltered valleys, and an in- finite variety of scenery. The highest peaks are Saddle Mount, Taghkonic, Mount Tom, Mount Holyoke, &c. Massachusetts has no large rivers wholly within her bounds. The Merrirnack passes out of New Hampshire into the northern division of the State, emptying into the sea at Newbury Port. The Connecticut, in traversing it from north to south, nearly divides the State. The Housatonic, Charles, Ipswich, Neponset, and Taunton, though they have short courses, are very pleasant streams. The deep bay between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, which has given name to the State, has caused it to be known in the other States by the name of the COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS, ?1 Bay State. Cape Ann bounds it on the north, and Cape Cod on the south. Agriculture receives htre great attention, and is conducted with a superior degree of skill and in- telligence. Massachusetts is without doubt the best cultivated State in the Union. Both the legislature and agricultural societies have made great efforts to encourage skilful and thrifty hus- bandry, and to introduce the best foreign breeds of sheep and cattle. Commerce, manufactures, and the fisheries, are, however, the principal objects of pursuit. The shipping belonging to this State amounts to about 500,000 tons, being greater than that of any other State; it is computed that 1522 vessels, of 269,497 tons, enter, and 1459 vessels, of 248,188 tons, clear at the different ports annually. The value of the imports are also estimated at 20,870,373 dollars; of exports at 15,143,790 dollars. There is also an active and extensive coasting trade car- ried on with all parts of the Union ; the imports being chiefly raw produce and provisions, and the exports manufactured articles. The herring and mackerel fisheries are carried on along shore ; the cod fishery, chiefly on the great Banks, and the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts ; the whale fishery in the South Atlantic, the Pacific, Indian, and Antarctic Oceans. Two hundred and ninety vessels, of about 90,000 tons, with upwards of 7000 men, are generally engaged in the whale fishery. The cod fishery is also largely prosecuted from almost all the towns on the coast, and yields annually 400,000 quintals of fish, and 6000 barrels of oil, of the value of 1,000,000 dollars. In Massachusetts there is a larger amount of capital invested in manufactures than in any other State in the Union. There are upwards of 300 72 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. cotton-mills, consuming about 30,000,000 pounds of cotton ; also 150 woollen-mills, manufacturing broad-cloths, flannels, satinetts, blankets, carpets, &c. There are likewise numerous carding ma- chines. The wool used in household manufac- tures is estimated at about 8.000,000 of dollars. The silk manufacture has been successfully intro- duced ; also iron manufactures, including nails, machinery of all sorts, hollow ware, cutlery, annually made is great, and well known for their excellent quality. The fisheries are carried on from several of the ports ; and there are valuable shad fisheries on the rivers. There are .about 15,000 tons of shipping from this State employed in the whale fishery ; ami about 40,000 barrels of whale and sperm oil ac annually brought in. The coastino* trade is con- ' O O sideralde, but most of the foreign trade is carried on tii rough Ne\v York. The manufactures of Connecticut are consider- able, and the ingenuity and industry of the people in this respect have a reputation co-extensive with the Union. The principal articles are cotton and woollen goods, clocks, combs, and buttons, tin and wooden ware. Implements and utensils of various descriptions are among the products of manufactur ing industry. There are 112 cotton mills, and ninety-three woollen factories in the State. The annual value of cotton and woollen goods, iron manufactures, boots and shoes, buttons and combs, paper, coaches and waggons, with other articles, amount to nearly 10,000,000 dollars. Common schools are supported by the proceeds of the school fund belonging to the State, which are distributed among the school districts, in pro- portion to the number of children in each between the ages of four and sixteen years. The money thus distributed is applied solely to paying the ex- pense of instruction, the other charges being paid by the districts. % The number of children of the above description is about 90.000. The school fund amounts to nearly 1,900,000 dollars; the income of which is about 84,000 dollars. There are also upwards of thirty academies and high schools in the State; and three colleges Yale Col- lege at New Haven, Washington College at Uert*- S(y UNITKP STATES OF AMERICA. ford, and the Wesleyan University at Norwich. Yale College is one of the oldest and most respec- table, and the most frequented of the collegiate institutions in the country. Attached to it are a, theological department, a medical institute, and a law school. The duties of instruction are per- formed by twenty-seven teachers. The Congregation;lists are the most numerous religious sect; after them rank the Baptists, Me- thodists, and Episcopalians ; and there are some Universalists, Roman Catholics, and Shakers. The Farrnington canal extends from New Haven to Massachusetts' line, fifty-six miles ; whence it is continued to Northampton, by the Hampshire and Hampden canal. Enfield canal, five and a half miles long, serves to overcome a fall in the Connecticut, and supplies valuable mill-seats. The railroad from Providence to Stonington, in this State, forty - fi ve miles in length, is connected by a steam ferry-boat with the termination of the Long Island line. There is also a railroad between New Haven and Hartford, a distance of forty miles. The population, which was in 1830. 297,665 ; in 1840, 320,082 ; now exceeds 345,000. New Haven, ihe principal city of the State, is beautifully situated on a bay of the same name. The harbour is safe and spacious, but it is shallow, and gradually filling up. The cifcy is regularly laid out and neatly built ; many of the houses have fine gardens ; some of the principal streets are bordered by rows of shady trees, and the principal square is finely ornamented in the same manner. Among the public-buildings are the State House, the State Hospital, Yale College, several churches, ts, in part, of the descendants of the original Dutch settlers, who have now, however, in a great measure, lost their national characteristics, and the descendants of the German palatins, who removed thither in the he- lion.' He then went on to inform me, that the exclusion in question did not arise from any legislative enactment, but from the tyranny of that prejudice, which, regardiotg the poor black as a being of inferior order, works its own fulfil !uent in making him so. There was no answering this, for it accorded too well with my own observation** in society not to carry my implicit belief. " The master then proceeded to explain the system of education adopted in the schjol, and subsequently af- forded many gratifying proofs of the proficiency of hi scholars. One class wag employed in Navigation, and worked several complicated Problems with great accuracy and rapidity. A large proportion were perfectly conver- sant with Arithmetic, and not a few with the lower Ma- thematics. A long and rigid examination took place in Geography, in the cour.se of which questions were answered with facility, which I confess would have puzzled exceed- ingly, had they been addressed to myself. "I had become so much interested in the little party- coloured crowd before me that I recurred to our former discourse, and inquired of the master, what would proba- bly become of his scholars on their being sent out into the world ? Some trades, some description of labour of course were open to them, and I expressed my desire to know what these were. He told me they were few. The class studying navigation were destined to be sailors ; but let their talents be what they might, it was impossible they could rise to be officers of the paltriest merchantman, that entered the waters of the United States. The office of cook, or steward, was indeed within the scope of their STATE OP NEW YORK. 9t ginning of last century, with numerous emigrants from Great Britain and other European countries. But the mass of the people are of New England origin or descent. New York State is divider!, for civil purposes, into fifty- seven counties, containing nine cities, and 797 townships, with 122 incorporated villages, many of which have different names from the town- ships in which they are situated. The City of New York is situated on and occupies the whole island of Manhattan, at th* ambition ; but it was just as feasible for the poor creature* to become Chancellor of the State, as mate of a ship. Iii other pursuits it was the same. Some would become tone masons, or bricklayer*, and to the extent of carrying a hod, or handling a trowel, the course was clear befort them ; but the office of master bricklayer was open to them precisely in the same sense as the Professorship of Natural Philosophy. No white artificer would serve un- der a coloured master. The most degraded Irish emi- grant would scout the idea with indignation. As carpen- ters, shoemakers, or tailors, they were stiil arrested by the same barrier. In either of the latter capacities, indeed, they might work for people of their own complexion, but no gentleman would ever think of ordering garments of any sort from a Schneider of cuticle less white than hii own. Grocers they might be, but then who could con- oeiye the possibility of a respectable household matron purchasing tea or spiceries from a vile ' Nigger ?' AB bar- bers they were more fortunate, and in that capacity might even enjoy the privilege of taking the President of th United States by the nose. Throughout the Union, th department of domestic service peculiarly belongs to them, though recently they are beginning to find rivals in th Irish emigrants, who come annually in swarms like locust*. " On the whole, I cannot help considering it a mistake to suppose that slavery has been abolished in the northern States of the Union. It is true, indeed, that in these State* the power of compulsory labour no longer exists, and that ue human being within their limits can no longer claim property m the thews and tiuews of an another. Bui. k 100 UNITED bTATCS OF AMERICA. confluence (f the Hudson River and Long I^lnnd Sound. It is alrno?t impossible to conceive a city better situated for commerce ; as at no season of the year can there be any obstruction in its com- munication with the ocean ; and with a fine navi- gable river stretching for nearly 200 miles into the interior of a fertile country, it possesses natural advantages of no common order, and speaks favour- ably for the sagacity of its original founders. In 1609, the celebrated English navigator, Hud- son, at that time in the service of the Dutch, set that all that is implied in the boon of freedom 1 If the word mean anything, it must mean the enjoyment of equal rights, and the unfettered exercise in each individual of such powers and faculties as God has given him. In this true meaning of the word, it may be safely asserted, that this poor degraded caste are still slaves. They are sub- jected to the most grinding and humiliating of all slaveries, that of universal and unconquerable prejudice. The whip, indeed, has been removed from the back of the negro, but the chains are still on his limbs, and he bears the brand of degradation on his forehead. What is it but mere abuse of language to call him free who is tyrannically deprived of all the motives to exertion which animate other men 1 The law, in truth, has left him in that most pitiable of all conditions, a masterless slave. " It cannot be denied, that the negro population are still compelled, as a clats. to be the hewers of wood, and drawers of water, to their fellow citizens. Citizens/ there is in- deed something ludicrous in the application of the word to these miserable Pariahs. What privileges do they en- joy as such 'I -*re they admissible upon a jnry 1 Can they enrol themselves in the militia 1 Will a white man eat with them, or extend to them the hand of fellowship 1 Alas! ifthe.se men, so irresistibly manacled to degrada- tion, are to be called free, tell us, at least, what stuff are slaves made of." Men and Manners in America. From this quotation we may justly consider it a piece of mockery in the legislature of New York to hold out the extension of the suffrage to this undeservedly degraded STATE OF NEW YORK. 101 sail from Holland in search of a north-we^t passage to India. He was unable to accomplish this object, and on abandoning it as impracticable, he steered southward, and entering the bay of the Chesapeake, there sav the first settlement of the English at James' Town, in Virginia. He afterwards sailed for the Delaware, off which he anchored, and pro- ceeded thence to Long Island, entered the Bay of New York, and sailed up the North River, as it was then named, or Hudson, as it is now called, afcer him as its first discoverer. On his first en- trance into the Bay of New York, some of the Indian tribes then occupying Long Island evinced their hostility, and attempted to prevent his further progress by attacking him ; in this attack some of his crew were killed, and others wounded ; but he continued to proceed on his voyage, and as he ad- vanced up the river, he found the natives more friendly, expressing by significant gestures to give him welcome, and exhibiting their kindly feelings by ample presents of fruits and other articles. The report which Hudson and bis fellow voy- agers gave of the size and character of this magni- ficent river, when they returned to Holland, created quite a sensation among the mercantile bodies of that country, and induced a number of the mer- chants to form an association for the purpose of opening a traffic upon it ; and in order to encou rage this design the Dutch government granted to tliis association an entire monopoly of the trade for a certain number of years. No sooner was this grant obtained, than these merchants set about making their preparations with an activity quite at variance with the habitual stolidity for which that people have for so many ages been proverbial. Everything being in readiness, they sailed from .their natives shores, and after a prosperous voyage, 102 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. tinder the pilotage of Hudson, they reached the long- wished tor ri?er, in high spirits and expecta- tions It was this company who had the honour of forming the first settlement, where the Citv of Albany now stands, on a spot then called by the Indians Schaunaugh-tarda, or, Once the Pint Plains. . It was not, however, till 1621. that the City of Albany was first founded by the Dutch West India Company ; and on account of the great number of their countrymen who continued to flock to this land of promise as settlers, enabled this company, about the same time, to establish the City of New Amsterdam, on the Island of Manhattan, where the present City of New York now stands. For about the space of forty year* the Dutch were allowed to enjoy their acquisition without molestation. They governed it after their fashion, and the people became numerous, happy, and pros- perous. But this state of affairs was not allowed to continue. The cupidity of the English observed this prosperity with an envious eve, and determined to overreach the simplicity of the occupiers of this extensive territory. In the year 1604, therefore, Charles II., most unscrupulously seeking to provoke the Dutch into a war, as the readiest means of accomplishing this design, asserted a claim to the whole of their broad possessions on the banks of the river Hudson, under the title of the New-Netherlands; and made a pecial grant, by charter and every requisite for- mality, to his brother, the Duke of York ; and a fleet and army were accordingly despatched to en- force the unjust demand with as little delay as possible. Peter Stuyvesant (generally known among his countrymen by the name of Peter the Headstrong), the then Dutch governor, was a man STATIC OF NEW YORK. 103 ef indomitable courage, and, if properly assisted, would have defended his charge till the last, was highly indignant on being informed of this unjust claim ; but when he learned it was the intention of the English to enforce it by arms, he immediately made preparations for putting himself in the best posture of defence he could ; but as the Dutch people were too inert, and most dreadfully terrified at tiie great hustle wnich a war would cause, they were very backward in rendering the necessary assistance, or, indeed, any assistance at all, to their valiant governor. He, therefore, when sum- moned by Colonel Nichols, who commanded the invading army, after remonstrating with the depu- tation upon the injustice of their pretensions, con- cluded his eloquent appeal in these words: " As touching the threats in your message, we have nothing to answer, only that we fear nothing, but what God (who is just as merciful) shall lay upon MS; all things being in his gracious disposal; and we may be as well preserved by him in small forces, as by a great army: which makes us to wish you all happiness and prosperity, and recommend you to his protection." This was an answer quite irre- levant to the question; which being again put in a more peremptory manner, and the intrepid Stuyve- sant having literally no means of defence, and a compromise being out of the question, the result was, as might have been expected, the ultimate surrender of New York to the British authorities. The defeated governor upon this retired to his own dwelling, where he spent the remaining portion of bis life, in doing good to the extent of his means amongst his countrymen, but would hold no inter- course whatever with any of the natives of that country which had caused him such deep disgrace. This success only tended to whet the appetite of 104 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. the conquerors, nor did they desist from their desire of aggrandisement till, 1(>67. the whole territory was formally ceded by the Dutch people to the British. Great Britain now possessed a large extent of territory in the North American continent, divided into separate jurisdictions, the inhabitants of which were governed by English laws, and guaranteed that civil and religious liberty, the birth -right of every British subject. Each of these j urisdictions had a local parliament, or assem- bly of delegates, of its own, presided over by a governor appointed by the British ministry. One of the understood regulations in managing these distant countries was, that they should con- tribute no taxes to Britain; but it having happened in the course of time that the British treasury stood much in need of a supply of money, the British ministry and parliament resolved on exacting cer- tain taxes or duties from the American colonists. These taxes, we doubt not, would have been freely contributed by the Americans, provided they bad been granted the permission of sending representa- tives to the Britis-h parliament ; but this proposal being sternly refused, through a fear of its leading to further changes in the British legislature, the consequence of which was, that the Americans refused to pay any taxes whatever ; and in a short time opposed their exaction by force. The British government at this period acted with extreme im- propriety ; nevertheless, the nation ru>hed heed- lessly into a war with the colonies, expecting speedily to put down all opposition to the laws : and the Americans sagaciously prepared for the coming struggle. They immediately raised im army for the defence of the provinces, and bestowed the command of the forces on George Washington, STATE OF NEW YORK. 105 who, although only comparatively a young man, had already evinced Decided proofs of military talents and prudence, having on more than one occasion successfully defended the frontiers of these provinces from the invasions of the French. No man in any age or country ever filled a more arduous station than that in which Washington was now placed. He was called upon to defend an extensive country just beginning the perilous experiment of self-government, altogether unprac- tised in war on a great srah\ and with no other resources than her indomitable spirit, against a powerful nation, possessed of all the means, and strong with all the sinews of war, and ahle, by its command of the ocean, to carry its hostilities againsa any part of that extensive coast, which had drawn towards it the best part of the wealth and industry of the country. For a considerable period the American troops had no fire-arms but what they had provided themselves ; they had no tents, no magazines, no cavalry, ro artillery, and scarcely any ammunition. So provided, or rather unpro- vided, the best disciplined troops in the world would have been unable to effect much ; but when we consider the nature and description of these provincial armies, we must feel surprised that the Americans were able to keep the field for even a single campaign against the well-appointed forces of Britain. In this war the British government exhibited a laxity of principle, completely at variance with their general policy under similar circumstances. Instead of transporting large bodies of men capa- ble of crushing at once the united force of the colonists, the British ministry despatched small detachments of troops, who were invariably cut to pieces as they marched through the country, and F 2 106 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. on some occasions whole armies had ignominiDusly to lay down their arms to the despised rebels. In this species of war, which has afforded the Ameri- cans some cause for boasting, their general was equally conspicuous for his cool determination and courage in the heat of conflict ; and his generous magnanimity after victory, so as to gain the ap- plause of both friend and foe. The situation of Washington was one of peculiar difficulty. He experienced languor, insubordination, and desertion in his followers ; and it was only after he had the address to induce his countrymen to establish a standing arrny on something like regular princi- ples, that success crowned his exertions. It is allowed by all parties that the services of the American general in his noble struggle against oppression were as great as were ever perform ed by any man to any nation. History is full of far more brilliant exploits, but it must always be kept in mind that in Washington's peculiar situation, not to be defeated was victory. In the arrange- ments on the day of battle, we should discover but a small portion of those happy endowments which gave him an unrivalled ascendancy over the minds of his countrymen ; which enabled him to keep a powerful enemy in awe with fluctuating levies, whose defective constitution forbade the necessary severities of discipline ; which enabled him to awaken sentiments of honour and patriotism in the hearts of his countrymen frequently divided by animosities and jealousies. In criticising the mili- tary conduct of this great man we must always keep in view his means ; and if we cannot discover any single achievement of peculiar brilliancy, we shall yet he forced to admire a long series of ardu- ous operations which display penetration and energy combined with uniform and unerring sagacity. STATE OF NKW YOHK. 107 Although it was si in pi v the redress of grievances relative to the unjust taxation imposed upon them hy the mother country that induced the Americans to take up arms, as they day hy day learned to feel their strength, they gradually aspired to higher views their complete independence, and a total separation from England. This idea once enter- tained became irresistible in the minds of the colo- nists ; and Great Britain, when too late, began te perceive the danger she ran of losing one of her most valuable provinces. But the history of this war of independence must be familiar to ever/ reader. Let it suffice for us then to say The war was commenced on the 14th of June, 1?74, and, with greater or lesser vigour was carried on for about eight years. Two years after its breaking out, on the 4th of July, 1776, the colonists declared tlu-ir independence of the English crown, which was acknowledged by France in 1778, by Holland in 1^82; but ; t was not till the 30th of November, 1783, that the British par- liament renounced all claim to this once valuable portion of their dominions. Thus we have seen that this country, which was unjustly wrested from the Dutch by the Eng.ish one hundred and twenty -one years previously, was now set free from her oppression, and has since become one of the most flourishing and independent nations in the world. Great Britain is still possessed of other North American colonies let us hope that the warning given by the United States will prove a useful lesson, and that it may not by similar misgovernment split upon the same rock, and make shipwreck of that portion of her dominions also. After having thus gloriously secured the blessing of national independence, it was natural to think the colonists would be satisfied ; but suck 108 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. was by no means the case. They broke out into parties ; disaffection spread on all sides ; and, had not the wisdom and patriotism of Washington suggested salutary expedients to allay ferment and avert the danger, the Union of Slates would have been dissolved, and irretrievable ruin and national disgrace the consequence. That Union appears now to be firmly rooted, and long may it continue. Previous to this revolution, and while America was merely a British colony subject to the rule 6f strangers located in London, the City of New York made but small advances in either wealth or population ; but no sooner was she free from the galling yoke of foreigners than the change became remarkable ; and she has now assumed a station among the cities of the earth, which, by the enter- prise and industry of her inhabitants, and the un- common natural advantages of her situation, ranks her as the second commercial city in the world, being inferior only to London. The early history of New York is enveloped in much mystery: but as there is sufficient known to serve for all the purposes of illustrating its extra- ordinary change, from a town of comparative in- significance, to one of the largest, 'wealthiest, and most important cities in the world, we shall pay little attention to the surmises and conflicting statements of historians. There can be no doubt that its earliest stages of improvement, under the Dutch govern men t, were extremely slow, and that it did not progress much more rapidly during its possession by the British. When we cast our eye upon the map of the world, and bear in mind the commercial changes produced by the growing importance of many other countries, and the rapid progress of naviga- tion, we shall perceive that New York was so STATE OF NEW YORK. 100 situated as to secure greater advantages from the combination of these changes, than any other place of equal political importance. Policy had suffi- cient foresight to invite Commerce; Commerce had the power, and felt it to be its interest, to lend all its interest to Policy. In olden times .New York had remained " crib- bed, cabined, and confined ; ' the houses were built of wood, and thatched with straw. At the same time the streets, which were very narrow and but partially paved, were constantly strewed with every sort of filth, engendering noxious and pesti- lential vapours. In all human probability this miserable state of things would not have been re- medied by any milder influence than the revolu- tion, which gave the Americans the power of con- ducting their own affairs, without the liability of foreign intervention. After this period the city rose rapidly, and ex- tended itself to accommodate the increased popula- tion, consequent on a change of government, as emigrants now flocked thither from all quarters. The comfort and appearance of its interior have not been neglected ; and as public convenience re- quired enlarged thoroughfares, crowded districts were removed to make way for noble streets. New York has never been afflicted by any far- ppreading distemper, if we except the visitation of Cholera, which made few exceptions of places in its ravaging progress. This may be attributed to the changes which time and the progressive im- provements of society have produced, together with the advance of the arts and sciences : cleanli- ness, so essential to health, is promoted by the pavement of the streets, and the construction of sewers, so as to carry off all filth. The general industry of the inhabitants, and their ample supply I!0 VKITID fTATES OF AMEK1CA. of food, are also well adapted to preserve tlirm &ound in body ; and when disease from natural causes attacks them, the most eminent professor of the healing art are at hand to check its progress. When the stranger is informed of the number of inhabitants New York contains, he will cease to wonder at its extent : when he. considers it as one of the principal marts of the commerce of the world, gathering riches from all the quarters of the globe, and concentrating the wealth of many climes, he will readily conceive why its riches have so close a proportion to its extent ; why all who have industry to dispose, art to exhibit, or ambition to gratify, should make it the haven of their hope: he will here see successful industry rising to honourable distinction, and imprudence falling into decay, degenerating into vice, and sink- ing into disgrace. The minds that rule, and the means by which regularity is maintained in so mixed a nuiltitiK e, the endless occupations of the various classes, the labours of the busy, the amusements of the idle, and the interest of the whole, form objects of curi- osity to the foreigner and stranger. The harbour of New York, the principal source of all its greatness, occupies an area of twenty-five miles ; and its shores are everywhere adorned by towns, villages, and handsome country seats. By means of its noble sailing and steam vessels, it Holds communication with every part of Europe, Asia, Africa, and the islands in the great Pacific Ocean, exchanging her commodities for the pro- ducts of every clime. The busy scene is at all times animating numerous steam vessels, and boats of all descriptions, are constantly traversing the harbour ; and the creaking of machinery, and the voices from the shore, give ample evidence of STATE OF NEW YORK. Ill activity and bustle. There are some beautiful prospects from the harbour. On approaching the city from the Straits of Staten Island the view is lovely. You first enter on the Bay of New York with the Quarantine Ground the Narrows ships at anchor, outward bound small craft beating across the Hudson Bedlow's Island Governor's Island Brooklyn, on the height?, and the City of New York right ahead, enlarging in latitude as it recedes from the apex of a triangle, stretching along the shore-? of the Hudson and East Rivers, far as the eye can reach forming, altogether, one of the most delightful marine pictures that it is possible to look upon ; the city, meanwhile, pre- >erving all its imposing effect. The numerous spires and steeples of the churches the Battery, with its trees the boats, sloops, and schooners emerging from the East River, on the one hand, and from the North River on the other, wiMi the forest of masts fringing New York at the wharves on either side of the shore and the distinctive signals of the several packets and large ships en- gaged in the foreign trade all make up a beauti- ful scene on which the eye loves to linger ; and furnishes an exalted idea of the maritime greatness of New York, which is to be accounted for in a great measure to her proximity to the ocean, and accessibility to the bay throughout the year ; and, still more, perhaps, to the capaciousness of her waters, and the magnificent avenues of the East and North Rivers, by which her smaller craft is enabled to make their way into the very heart of the country. New York, like other maritime cities, is like- wise indebted to Steam navigation for much of \u>r commercial greatness. The steam ships of this jjurt are equal in size and power to those of any H2 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. other country ; but more than this, she can also hoiist that it was on her waters the first experi- ment ot propelling vessels by steam was made by the celebrated Fulton, who gives a particular ac- count of his hopes and fears, in the following letter to a friend, which we consider well worthy of a place in these pages : " When I was building my first steam boat, the project was received by the public at New York either with indif- ference or contempt as a visionary scheme. My friends indeed were civil, but they were shy ; they listened with patience to my explanations, but with a settled cast of incredulity on their countenances. I felt the full force of the lamentation of the poet, " Truths would you teach, to save a sinking land, All shun, none aid you, and few understand." ..' As I had occasion to pass daily to and from the build- ing-yard while my boat was in progress, I have often loitered, unknown, near the idle groups of strangers gathered in little circles, and heard various inquiries as to the object of this new vehicle. The language was uni- formly that of scorn, sneer, or ridicule. The loud laugh rose at my expense, the dry jest ; the wise calculation of losses and expenditure ; the dull but endless repetition of ' The Fulton folly !' Never did a single encouraging remark, or bright hope, or a warm wish cross my path. " At length the day arrived when the experiment was to be made. To rne it was a most trying and interesting occasion. I wanted my friends to go on board, and wit- ness the first successful trip. Many of them did me the favour to attend as a matter of personal respect, but it was manifest that they did it with reluctance, fearing to be partners of my mortification and not of my triumph. 1 was well aware that in my case there were many reasons to doubt of my own success. The machinery was new and ill made ; and many parts of it were constructed by mechanics unacquainted with such work ; and unexpected difficulties might reasonably be presumed to present them- selves from other causes. The moment arrived in which the word was to be given for the vessel to move. My friends were in groups on the deck. There was anxiety STATE OF NEW YOliK. 113 mixed with fear among them. They were silent, sad, and weary. I read in their looks nothing bat disaster, and almost repented of my effort. The signal was given, and the boat moved on a short distance, and then stopped and became immoveable. To the pilence of the preceding moment now succeeded murmurs of discontent, and agita- tion, and whisper*, and shrugs. I could hear distinctly repeated, 'I told you so it is a foolish scheme I wish we were well out of it.' I elevated myself OQ a platform, and stated that I knew not what was the matter; but if they would be quiet and indulge me for half an hour, I would either go on, or abandon the voyage. I went below, and ascertained that a slight maladjustment wa-4 the cause. It was obviated. The boat went on ; we left New York, we passed through the Highlands ; we reached Albany ! Yet even then imagination superseded the force of fact. It was doubted if it could be done again, or if it could be made, in any case, of great value." It has been done again, and it has been made of inestimable value. How it would have cheered the good old man, had lie lived to the present time, to have looked upon the harbour of New York, and to see the triumph of his invention to see the inland rivers of his native country covered by steam- boats and to see the proud and stately bark pro- pelled across the broad Atlantic by means of this grand invention, bringing the inhabitants of the Old and the New WorJd into such close proximity. After considering the value of this noble harbour to a commercial community, need we be surprised at the unexampled increase in the population of this flourishing city. In 1790, the number of in- habitants was only 33,13i ; in 1800, 60,489; in 1810, 96,373; in 1820, 123,706; in 1830, 202,583; in 1840, 312,710; in 1845, 371,223; and at the period at which we write, the decennial census for 1850 not having been made up, we may safely compute the present number of the inhabitants of New York at about 450 000. Of this Dumber \ve may estimate the coloured population at 35,000 114 UNITKD STATUS OP AMERICA. the number of whom a stranger meets with in the .streets reminds him that an ocean divides him from Great Britain. The Dutch, by whom the city of New York was originally founded, paid little or no attention to regularity of plan in laying out the city, conse- quently, in the lower portions, from Whitehall to the Park, many of the streets are extremely nar- row and crooked, and the houses principally con- structed of wood ; but in all the new quarters the streets are handsome, and laid out at right angles, and few cities in the world can exhibit greater beauty of de-ign, or regularity of execution than all the upper part, which contain the residence*? of a great majority of the wealthier portion of the citizens. The principal street is Broadway, which ex- tends from the northern end of the Battery to Union Square, in a straight line, and occupied the high land about equi-diftant from the North River and the East River, or Long Island Sound. It is at present nearly three miles in length, but is in progress of continuation to Bloomingdale. This street, the most fashionable in the city, is eighty feet wide, regularly built, and adorned on both iides by many fine buildings, elegant stores, and *ome of the largest and most splendid hotels to be found in this or any other country. The side pavements of this handsome street form the most fashionable promenade of New York between the hours of twelve and two o'clock, in good weather; and the fine trees which line the edge of the foot pavement the greater part of the way, make it a most agreeable place for a stroll or a lounge, while the gaily dressed crowd of young and beautiful ladies adds much to the charm of the scene. It does not, however, exhibit the elegance which STATE (F NKW YOHK. 115 English carriages, horse?, and liveries give to th London or Parisian promenades in the afternoon of a beautiful day in May or June ; hut the heauty and gaiety of the Broadway is not confined to any particular season of the year ; and even in the very depth of winter there is to he seen more general proofs of competency and comfort among all classes, and fewer appearances of pauperism, than in any other promenade in Europe. The stranger cannot pass along this fashionable street, without hein^ struck at the sight of signs exhi- bited by the various shops. Of these " Dry Goods Store/' is the most frequent, and means linen, silk, or woollen warehouse ; " Coffin Ware- house," is sufficiently explanatory of the traffic carried on ; " Flour and Feed Store ;" Oyster Refectory ;" *' Hollow Ware, Spiders, and Fire Dogs," iness, more eager for dollars acquired in any manner, more wedded to narrow and sordid gains, they perceive that it generates a taste for reading, a love of scientific pleasures, and a freedom from the coarser manners which distinguished their fore- fathers. I have heard it gravely argued that Co- lumbia College has proved a source of bitterness to many in New York, by rendering their sons too much the gentleman, and disqualifying them for business." This is the opinion of an English clergy- man, who had ample opportunities of examining into the system carried on in the various seminaries in New York, which he in a great measure totally condemns, especially that regarding school discip- line, or rather want of discipline. The Mercantile Literary Association is situated at the corner of Nassau and Beckman Streets, in the building generally known as u Clinton Hall." This institution was first established in 1820 ; in the month of November of which year a notice was posted upon the bulletin of the " Daily Adver- tiser," inviting the merchants' clerks of New York to meet, for the purpose of establishing a library and reading-room. In pursuance of this call, a meeting was held at the Tontine Coffee-house, on the 9th of November, where were assembled about 250 individuals, the majority of whom doubtlet* regarded the scheme as chimerical and impracti- cable. However, a committee was appointed te 124 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. draft a constitution, which was submitted to, and adopted by, a subsequent meeting. Oa the 27th November, an election took place, and the board of directors were authorised to "' rent a room in the second floor of the building., No. 49, Fulton Street, for the use of the association ; rent not to exceed 100 dollars per annum." In the month of Feb- ruary, 1821, the library was opened in the above room, with a stock of 700 volumes, and a list of 204 members, where it remained till 1826, when it had increased t<> 3,300 volumes, and 909 mem- bers.. The increase was a-s follows: 1821, 204 members; 1822, 280: 1823, 360; 1824, 43s ; 1825, no report ; 1826, 909. The library was now removed to a larger room in Cliff Street. The want of suitable accommoda- tion being felt, and the utility of the institution no longer doubtful, a meeting of the principal mer- chants interested in the welfare of the association, was held in February, 1828, at which it was agreed to raise by subscription a sum sufficient to erect a building for the accommodation of the library ; nearly 40,000 dollars was thus raised, and the building at present occupied by the association was erected, and dedicated to learning, on the 2nd November, "1830, under the name of "Clinton Hall," the library at this time exceeding 5,000 volumes. From this period a new era of the insti- tution is dated. It has continued to prosper up to the present day. In 1834 it contained 9,938 volumes. 1837 , 13,305 , 1845 , 21,312 , and 1891 members. 1846 22,740 2129 1847 26,831 , 2761 1848 29,157 3004 STATE OF NKW YoKK. 125 The association now possesses four scholarships, two presented by Columbia College, in 1830, two by the New York University, in 1846, and the privilege of one free pupil at the New York Insti- tute. Annual courses of lectures are delivered, under the auspices of the association, by gentlemen of acknowledged ability. Classes in many of the languages and useful branches have been formed, and a banking institution, founded in connection with the library, as well as a society for mental improvement, known as the Clinton Union. The reading-room is supplied with nearly all the perio- dical literature of Europe and America, and with all the daily and weekly papers, both religious and secular. The institution possesses a museum, yet iu its infancy, but it is still valuable and well selected, besides several specimens of statuary, and numerous engravings and paintings. The library is enriched with rare and costly works of science, art, arid illustration, among which is u Audubon's Complete Works," the only copy acces>ible in New York. From the last report of the association (June, 1849) there had been added nearly 1,200 volumes, and 550 new members, making the num- ber 30,357 volumes, and 3,354 members. This u undoubtedly the most flourishing institution, and the largest and most popular of the kind in the United States ; and is satisfactory evidence of what may be done by a few philanthropic and persevering young men. The Mechanics' Institute, in the City Hall, esta- blished for the instruction of mechanics, especially apprentices, in all the useful branches of science and art. Regular annual courses of instruction are given by means of popular lectures, on a variety of subjects, especially in chemical and mechanical philosophy. It has also an excellent and judi- 12(> UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ciously selected library, containing about 2,000 volumes; also a reading-room, well supplied with foreign and domestic periodicals ; a museum, con- taining models of various kinds of machinery ; and a valuable collection of chemical and philosophical apparatus. This institution is munificently sup- ported, and promises well for the purposes intended by its projectors. The American Institute, for the encouragement of Arts, Agriculture, Commerce, and Manufacture, was incorporated in the year 1829; it occupies rooms at west end, second story, New City Hall, in the Park. This institution possesses a valuable library and reading-room, models of machinery, &c., and holds an annual fair at Castle Garden, where it exhibits an imposing array of the fruits of American ingenuity, enterprise, and industry. Lec- tures are delivered occasionally on a variety of subjects. It is well supported. The Apprentices' Library, situated at 32, Crosby Street, contains nearly 1 4,000 volumes, which are perused by upwards of 1,800 apprentices, thus affording valuable facilities for the cultivation of the minds of future heroes, statesmen, engineers, and other useful classes of citizens, whose influence will doubtless be felt throughout the world. The New York Historical Society possesses a well-selected library, exceeding 12.000 volumes, besides a splendid collection of coins, medals, and Indian antiquities of great value. The members of the society comprise some of the most eminent and influential men in the United States. Besides these, there are also the New York Society Library, containing 25,000 volumes, in all the departments of literature ; an Academy of Fine Arts; an Academy of Design: the Lyceum of Natural History; and the American Lyceum. STATE OF NEW YORK. 12? These two last have given to the world some valuable papers on important subjects. Several other institutions of a similar kind, although of minor importance, clearly evince that the inha- bitants ot this great city are not indifferent to the intellectual improvement of the young. Neither is New York behind her gister cities in her benevolent societies, which are numerous and well supported. They comprise an Hospital for the sick, in Broadway; another Hospital, with which is connected a Lunatic Asylum, at Bloom - ingdale; a third Hospital at Bellevue, for the sick and insane poor, connected with the city Aims- House ; several Orphan Asylums ; Relief Associa- tions ; Education, Bible, Tract, and Missionary Societies, uld accrue from the reclaiming of juvenile delinquents, in place of punishing them. He concluded his letter in these words: '-AM plans for improvement in the management of cri- minal children, the most forlorn and destitute of all the destitute classes, is an object worthy your attention, as the directors of such a municipality A* ours, without reference to the mere pecuniary co<4 of the undertaking: but when. 'EW YORK. 131 supposed to be women of unchaste character is not a hundredth part of that with which the streets of our English towns are infested ; and even the con- duct of these is unaccompanied hy any of those gross indecencies towards the male passenger so common in England. We were informed that the great majority of those unfortunate females who lived this abandoned life were strangers in the country, principally natives of Great Britain and Ireland." The Female Orphan Asylum was instituted soon after the Magdalen ; and as the latter was intended to reclaim prostitutes, the object of this institution is to prevent prostitution. Children are admitted about the age of nine, and are maintained and edu- cated to the age of fourteen, when they are appren- ticed or engaged as domestic servants. The Foundling Hospital. The object of this institution is the maintenance and education of exposed and deserted young children. They are not, however, as in some foreign establishments of a similar description, indiscriminately received, but in every individual case application is necessary, subject to the consideration of the committee of management. This application must be made per- sonally by the mother, who must be able to prove her previous good conduct, the desertion of the father, and also that the reception of the child, with the secresy observed, may be the means of restoring her to virtuous conduct and an honest livelihood. Private donations, liberal bequests, and endowments constitute the property of this institu- tion, and provide for the maintenance and educa- tion of about 200 children, nearly one- half of whom are reared in the country, being at the tender ages of from one to five years. At five years of age they are received into the hospital, which is a spa- 132 UMTHD STATK8 OP AMERICA. cious and convenient edifice, with a good garden and commodious play-ground for the children. The Asylum for the Blind is conducted with exemplary judgment. Here the most humane attention is paid to the wants of a n um her of our afflicted fellow-creatures, from twelve yeirs of age and upwards. They are taught to make baskets, clothes, and various other articles, which are sold at the school, where strangers are admitted to view the progress of the pupils, and to examine the na- ture of the institution, which is supported by vo- luntary contributions and the sale of the various articles manufactured by the inmates, the number of whom are generally about sixty, male and female. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum, instituted by pri- vate benevolence for the education of that unfortu- nate class of the human family. The pupils are not admitted before the age of nine, nor after four- teen. They are taught to read, write, and cipher; to comprehend the grammatical arrangement of words ; and even in some cases to articulate so as to be understood. They are also instructed in the principles of religion, and are taught habits of regular industry, and are generally found very expert in several of the arts of mechanism and manufacture in which they receive instructions. By means of this valuable institution many of these unfortunates are enabled to earn an honourable livelihood who would otherwise have been a burden upon society. Dispensaries. There are three of these public charities in New York, established for the purpose of affording medicine gratis, or at a moderate rate, together with medical advice, and, where it is ne- cessary, gratuitous attendance at the houses of the STATE OF NEW YORK. 133 patients. They are all supported by voluntary contributions. Lying-in Hospitals. No description of distress is more extensively provided for bv the benevolence of the ladies in New York than that which arises from the helpless condition of poor lying-in women. The establishments are numerous, solely supported by voluntary contributions. In some of these the patients are received and amply provided with every comfort ; whilst others provide medical attendance, medicine, and linen gratuitously to indigent females at their own houses. The Philanthropic Society of New York. The object of this institution is to rescue from vice and misery the offspring of the vicious and abandoned, and to induce habits of industry and morality in the minds of those who have been exposed to the influence of bad example. The children, male and female, are taken from prisons, or from the retn-ats of villany and the haunts of prostitution. The boys are taught some useful trades tinder the direc- tion of competent persons ; while the girls are instructed to work at their needles, and in those household offices which may render them ser- viceable to the community and enable them to obtain an honest livelihood. The number of chil- dren that have been educated by this society amounts to several hundreds. The city of New York is celebrated for the stupendous public works undertaken by the enter- prising inhabitants. The most splendid and ex- tensive of these is the Croton Water Works. The aqueduct com- wence* at the Croton River, five miles distant from the Hudson River, in Westchester county. The dam is 250 feet long, 70 feet wide at bottom, 7 at top, and 40 feet high, and built of stone and 134 UMTKD STATES OF AMEHICA. cement. It creates a pond five miles long, co- vering an extent of 400 acres, and contains 500.000,000 gallons of water. From the dam the aqueduct proceeds, sometimes tunnelling through solid rocks, crossing valleys by embankments, and brooks by culverts, until it reaches Harlem River, a distance of thirty -three miles. It is built of stone, brick, and cement, arched over and under ; six feet nine inches wide at bottom, seven feet eight inches at top of the side walls, and eight feet five inches high ; it has a descent of thirteen- and- a-quarter inches per mile, and will discharge sixty millions of gallons every twenty-four hours. It crosses the Harlem River, on a magnificent bridge of stone, 1,450 feet in length, with fourteen piers, eight of them bearing arches eighty feet span, 114 feet above tide- water at the top. The receiving reservoir, at Eighty-sixth Street, thirty eight miles from the Croton dam, covers tbirty-five acres, and contains 150,000,000 gallons. The distributing reservoir, on Murray's Hill, in Fortieth Street, covers four acres, and is constructed of stone and cement, forty- five feet high above the street, and bolds 20,000,000 gallons. Thence the water is distributed over the city in iron pipes, laid suffi- ciently deep under ground to protect them from the frost. The whole cost of the work has been about 1 3,000,000 dollars The water is the purest kind of river water. There are laid below the dis- tributing reservoir in Fortieth Street upwards of 170 miles of pipes, from three to thirty -six inches in diameter. The Erie Canal is unquestionably a magnificent work, and reflects great credit upon those who planned it, and upon the legislature of the State of New York, who carried it into effect. It was commenced in 1817, and completed in 1825; tbe STATE OF NEW YORK. 135 whole length being 363 miles, beginning at the Hudson River, and ending at Lake Erie. There are eighty-three locks, constructed of stone in the most substantial manner, and eighteen aqueducts for conveying the water over rivers and roads. Three of these cross the Mohawk River, the long- est of which is 1,188 feet. There is also a great embankment of seventy-two feet in height, which extends for nearly two miles. Near the thriving village of Lockport, the canal has been cut through the solid calcareous rock for a distance of five miles, to a depth of from five to thirty feet, and still maintaining the general width of forty feet. At the end of this stupendous excavation are placed five double combined locks, of handsome solid masonry. The descent is about seventy feet, and the scene is altogether picturesque and interesting. After having been for above an hour immured by the rock on either side, the passenger finds himself suddenly emerge, ami approaching steadily to an abyss of a somewhat threatening aspect. Presently, however, a halt takes place, and the beautiful mechanism of the hydrostatic ladder transports him safely to the plains below. He has, in fact, descended the Falls of Niagara, for it is the same ridge which intersects Canada, and he is now upon the level of the Lake Ontario. The average breadth of the canal is forty feet at the top, and twenty-eight feet at the bottom ; and the depth throughout is about five feet. The whole expense of this vast undertaking was about 11,000,000 dollars ; but the outlay has been most judicious, and produces large returns to the State exchequer, besides the incalculable collateral advantages which it confers. Thi* tMiml opens a communication from the Atlantic at New York, almost to the Pacific Ocean at Astoria, by passing through the Upper 13(5 ' DH ITED STATES OP AMERICA. lakes of Erie, Houron, an-l Michigan, and by the Ohio into the Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red River, up to the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The trade on this canal is every year increasing ; and canals from neighbouring towns leading to this great trunk, are also very numerous, so that the tolls, which are very moderate, pay a revenue of upwards of twelve per cent on the actual outlay. The boats on the canal are constructed, some for cargo, some for passengers, and some for both. The packet-boats for passengers are generally eighty feet in length, nine feet in breadth ; about fifty feet of the length is appropriated to the cabin, leaving ten feet for spare room at the prow, and twenty feet for steerage passengers at the stern. These boats are much in use by travellers ; they are moderate in their charges, comfortable, and well regulated. The cabins are provided with books, and pamphlets, and the table abundantly supplied with good cheer. The upper deck affords a pleasant promenade, with fine views of the coun- try, though rather frequently interrupted by bridges upon the canal, so near the deck that it is abso- lutely indispensable to descend upon approaching them. The packet-boats are drawn by three horses, changed every eight or ten miles ; and the average speed is about five miles an hour. The eye of the traveller is sometimes attracted by a stra.nge look- ing barge, which on approaching proves to be a floating menagerie. The great length of the canal, and the rich improving country which it intersects, 110 doubt makes this speculation a good one ; and by judicious intervals in their yisits, with a reason- able change of stock, it may expect to retain the charm of novelty. Floating stores are likewise to be met with, which must prove a considerable STATE OF NEW YORK. 157 accommodation to families on the line of the canal, living distant from villages or towns. In Railroads it is not too much to say that New York keeps corresponding pace with the other im- provements in this commercial community, and carries on a constant communication with all parts of the country through their means. The railroads in America, unlike those in England, return a fair remunerating profit upon the capital invested. The Navy-yard^ at Wallahout Bay, in Brooklyn, opposite to New York, is well worthy the notice of strangers. Nothing can he more eligihle than the position chosen for this yard, where, in a fine bay, protected from all winds and weather, the government possess ahout forty acres of land, suf- ficient for accommodating as many of the largest ships as are likely to require shelter here, and where vessels drawing twenty-eight feet of water may lie afloat alongside the wharf. There is a spacious yard, puhlic store-houses, machine shops, and two immense buildings, constructed of wood, in which ships of war of the largest class are pro- tected whilst they are building. There is generally at least one line of battle-ship anchored in the harbour off Brooklyn, which does the double duty of guard-ship and receiving-ship. Her sea- complement averages about 800 ; but the harbour establishment is only about one-half, and these are continually changing. Volunteers for the general service of the iravy, and not for particular ships, are received on board almost daily. These undergo a regular training at the guns, and in almost every other kind of ship's duty. When sufficiently drilled and disciplined for more active service, they are transferred to such sea-going ships a s may require them ; and their places are supplied by new volunteers; so that the receiving- ship 138 UNITKD STATES OP AMERICA. forms a competent school for the efficient training of both men and boys. Of boys there are commonly about a hundred on board the guard-ship, called naval apprentices. They are entered between the ages of thirtean and sixteen, and are bound to the service till they are twenty-one years of age, when they are at perfect liberty to leave the service, or remain in it. These boys, on entering the service, receive five dollars a month and their rations ; but their pay increases as they rise from tbe third to the second class, to seven dollars a month ; and from the second to the first class, to ten dollars a month, as ordinary sea- men ; and if rated as able seamen, fifteen dollars a month, besides an allowance in money in place of grog, and an abundant supply of provisions. When old, or disabled, they are sent to the Naval Asylum, and are allowed a pension ; and when they die, their wives and children, if they have such, also re- ceive a pension. With such inducements as these, and mild and just treatment on board, it is not dif- ficult to man the American navy, without having recourse to the abhorrent practice of impressment to obtain seamen. The officers are likewise well paid ; and the rations are of the very best quality, and abundantly supplied ; while the greatest atten- tion is paid to the sick, and every indulgence con- sistent with proper discipline allowed to the men. Need we feel surprised then that desertion from the navy, unlike the army, is seldom heard of, and corporal punishment very rare. In extreme cases, indeed, flogging is resorted to, but the num- ber of lashes is restricted to twelve ; as the stop- page of pay, deprivation of liberty, and threats of discharge from the service, are generally sufficient to keep the sailors in order, and ensure an efficient discharge of their duties. STATE OF NEW YORK. 139 A school is also kept daily on the lower-gun-deck of the receiving ship, at which two teachers attend to instruct the youngsters in reading, writing, and arithmetic. Tlie boys generally are all dressed in neat uniforms, of blue jacket, white shirt, and white trowsers, with black glazed hats and ribbons, a white star at each corner of the blue lined shirt collar, turned over the jacket, open necks, and a white anchor on the right arm. They are uni- formly clean, and look extremely well. As the Americans are proud of their navy, we trust it will not be considered out of place to insert the following well- written account of the arrange- ments and general economy on board of an Ameri- can war vessel. It applies to a frigate, as de- scribed by an American naval officer. A frigate has three decks. The upper one ia called the spar-deck, and this is again subdivided into different parts, each called by its appropriate name. All that part of it from the gangways aft, is denominated the quarter-deck. Next to the cabin, this is the most sacred part of the ship. No officer on duty is allowed to appear there, unless he is dressed in his uniform ; and on ascending it from below, or in coming over the ship's side, he is obliged to pay it his respects by touching his hat. I have been reprimanded for walking there on a hot summer's day, without a cravat on, and the etiquette of touching the hat is in some instances so rigorously exacted, that midshipmen are sus- pended or quarantined for neglecting to comply with it. In port, the starboard-side of the quarter- deck is appropriated to the captain and wardroom officers, and the larboard to the inferior officers. I have seen a sailor taken to the gangway, and receive a dozen, for walking aft on the starboard side of tha 140 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. deck. At sea, the higher officers are entitled to the weather side, that is, the side upon which the wind blows, whichever it may be. There are three hatches on the quarter- deck, the after one of which belongs exclusively to the supe- rior officers. Near the centre is the capstan, a large wooden cylinder, by means of which the anchor and other heavy weights are ruined. The wheel, at which four men are stationed to &teer the ship, is just forward of the tnizen mast, and in front of it are the binnacles, two upright boxes, in each of which is placed a mariner's compass. That part of the spar-deck forward of the fore- mast, is called the forecastle. This is the favourite haunt of the men. Here they collect on a summer's evening to "spin" their " yarns," and forget their labours in the song and the dance. The black- smith's shop is always shipped on the forecastle, when any work in that line is to be performed. On that portion of the spar-deck, comprehended between the quarter-deck and the forecastle, are stowed all the spare spars, and also at sea all the boats, except one at the ship's stern, and one on each of her quarters. It is called the booms. On the spar-deck there are four ladders for the men, two of which are just forward of the gangways, and two just abaft the foremast. Parallel with this deck, are six strong platforms, outside of the bul- warks, three on each side of the vessel, opposite the three masts. They are called the fore- main, and mizen-chains. The shrouds, stout, cable-ropes which support the masts laterally, are fastened to them. The ropes which give a fore and aft sup- port to the masts are denominated stays. The guns on this deck are called carronades, and are all short, except generally two long car- ronades on the forecastle, and two on the quarter- STATE OF NEW YORK. 141 deck. The bulwarks rise to about tbe height of a common-sized man, above the spar-deck. They terminate with hammock-nettings, a deep trough nearly encircling the ship, in which the hammocks are stowed during the day. In foul weather the hammocks are protected by a tarred canvass cloth thrown over them, but in fair weather, this tar- paulin is rolled up and laid on the top of them, so as to have them almost entirely exposed. Nothing contributes more to the good appearance of a ship than clean hammocks neatly stowed. I will now conduct my reader down to the main or gun-deck. This is the great luxury of a frigate, as it furnishes a fine promenade in all weathers. The sun, rain, and dews are all excluded ; things which annoy you prodigiously on board of a sloop. We will commence with the captain's cabin. This occupies nearly nil the space oa the main- deck, abaft the mizzen-mast, and encloses four guns. It is separated from the rest of the deck by a partition, called, as all partitions on shipboard are, a bulk- head, which is always removed when the ship is cleared for action. The portion of the gun-deck, extending frm the cabin to the mainmast, is denominated the half- deck. The larboard side of this is also appropri- ated to the officers, but it wants the sacred charac- ter of the quarter -deck. Its use is common to officers of every grade. It is constantly occupied as a promenade, and in summer is tlie general reading room. That part of this deck compre- hended between the mainmast and the g'llley, is called the waist ; and here the carpenters, tailors, shoemakers, r porters and carters, who on this day are certain of being well employed, and receive double the pay- ment usual on any other day of the year. Jt i* 190 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. also a kind of holiday to all the gossips of New York, who, on this particular day, are allowed the privilege of peeping at will into the lodgings of such as have not permanent dwellings. As this dreaded day approaches, the landlord waits upon the tenant, and proposes his terms for the ensuing year, which, the reader may presume, are anything but a reduction of the exorbitant rent ; and the tenant prefers a change. A notice is instantly posted on the door, giving intimation that such apartments are to be let ; and the tenant is now left to look out for himself; in doing so he enters freely into every dwelling where the occupier is in similar circumstances with himself; while his own apartments are, in like manner, exposed to the prying scrutiny of others. It is a mere impossi- bility for a stranger who occupies lodgings, and wishes to escape the rapacity of his landlord, to avoid such intrusion into his most private rooms. Many ladies employ much of their time about this period in impertinently inspecting the abodes of strangers, to discover if they are respectable, and examine if their rooms are well furnished. Ame- ricans could not have invented any custom more inquisitorial, or which gives readier access to the privacy of strangers. It is one, certainly, well qualified partly to appease that abominable curio- sity which has become so proverbially national. Evacuation of the City by the British, 25th November. This is always a grand gala -day at New York. To perpetuate the memory of this glorious event, there is generally a parade of the whole of the militia (always a poor affair in Ame- rica), some firing of cannon and musketry, a pro- cession of the various trades, some mounted, some on foot, with banners and emblematical devices; the public bodies, decked out in their best ; and if it should fortunately happen that there is no fire in STATE OF NEW YORK. 191 the city requiring the attendance of the fire-engines and firemen, they bring up the rear of the proces- sion. The shops are closed, the citizens decorated with scarfs and ribbons, and the day spent in high glee and merriment, by all classes. Organised Societies, " The Workies." In the city of New York a separation has been for some years taking place between the different orders of society. The working class have organised them- selves into regular bodies, even more ridiculous in their views than the Chartists in England. There are three or four different confederations, familiarly called " Workies," in direct opposition to those who, more favoured by fortune, enjoy the luxuries of life without the necessity of manual labour. These people make no secret of their demands, which have been published in the newspapers, and posted on the walls. They vary somewhat, how- ever, from each other in their principles, and go different lengths in their attacks on the institutions of the country. The " Moderates 1 ' contend for equal and universal education; as it is unjust to maintain that there is no privileged order in a country where distinctions of education are per- mitted, the Workies being, in fact, excluded from all the valuable offices of the State, on account of their necessity to labour depriving them of the opportunity of acquiring the requisite education, while the loaves and fishes are distributed among a small but favoured class, and they aim at the abolition of this flagrant injustice, before American freedom can be called anything but a mere boast, by giving every citizen the same degree of educa- tion, and allowing all to start fair in the competi- tion for the honours and offices of the State. There are others, called " Agrarians," who are the most ultra and least numerous class, who follow out the principles of the Moderates, by insisting 192 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. on the justice and propriety of every citizen being equally supplied with food and clothing, and boldly advocate an equal division of property throughout the country, at given intervals of time, and dilate * * eloquently on the injustice of one man riding in a carriage, while his hard- working neighbour is com- pelled to walk on foot ; of one man drinking cham- pagne, while the great majority of the people have to content themselves with water ; this is the mon- strous iniquity which can only be remedied by an equalisation of property. The absurdity of these doctrines must ultimately destroy them as a body. Some of the advertisements emanating from these confederated bodies are of an extraordinary cha- racter ; and to illustrate the character of these clubs, we will here insert a copy of one which was distributed through all quarters of New York : "THE CAUSE OF THE POOE. t( The mechanics and other working men of the city of Xew York, and of these such, and such only, who live by their own useful industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own hands ; Who are in favour of A just compensation for la- bour, Abolishing imprisonment for debt, A n efficient lien law, A general system of educa- tion ; including food, clothing, and instruc- tion, equal for all, at the public expense, vnth- ewt separation of children from parents, Exemption from sale, by ex- ecutioD, of mechanics' tools and implements, sufficiently extensive to carry on business ; And who are opposed t-o Banks and Bankers, A uctions and A uctioneers, Monopolies and Monopolists, of all descrip- tions, Brokers, Lawyers, and Rich men for office, and to all those, either rich or poor, who favour them, Exemption of property from taxation ; STATE OF NEW YORK. 193 Are invited to assemble at the Wooster Street Military Hall, on Thursday evening next, 16th September, at eight o'clock, to select by ballot, from among the persons pro- posed on the 6th instant, Candidates for Governor, Lieute- nant Governor, Senator, and a new Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for Members of Con- gress, and for Assembly. " By order of the Committee of Fifty, " JOHN R. SOPER, Chairman. " JOHN TUTHILL, Secretary." This is undoubtedly sheer nonsense, and beats the ravings of our Chartist leaders hollow. It is, however, a well ascertained fact, that the influence of these bodies is strongly felt in the elections for the civic offices of the city ; and though this party is as yet neither so numerous, nor their principles so widely diffused as to create immediate alarm, there can be little doubt that, as the population increases, and the supply of labour exceeds the demand, the strength of these bodies must l> greatly augmented, by the needy, the idle, and the profligate, till at length they will be able to shake the present constitution from its firm basi?. This event may be, and we sincerely hope it is, far distant ; but it is not, on that account, the less certain. The rapid increase of the population, especially in the Atlantic States, must reduce the price of labour, while that of the necessaries of life must be greatly enhanced. The people will be oppressed by poverty and misery ; the great ma- jority without property of any kind. Then will come the trial of their much vaunted constitution nor is this period apparently very distant. Taxation. Although the inhabitants of the United States are not so overburdened with taxa- tion as those of this country as they are neither Uxed with house duty, nor taxes on know- it 104 TJMTED STATES OP AMERICA. ledge, nor subject to many other imposts with which we are ground down yet we observe, from the foregoing document, that they claim exemption from taxation on property the very article the majority of the people in Great Britain and Ire- laud wish to impose it upon. But the truth is, the large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as from the cheapness of the govern- ment, we are led to believe ; the public works, pub- lic buildings, administration of justice, &c., requir- ing adequate funds for their maintenance and sup- port. There is one consolation, however, which the Americans have, which we are almost, if not wholly, denied, and that is the knowledge that these burdens must gradually decrease, and that the money is laid out for their own peculiar benefit, and not expended upon the spurious progeny or cast-off mistresses of the aristocracy ; indeed, we have somewhere read of an Irish Viceroy who, not a great many years since, settled his physician's bill by conferring upon him a baronetcy, with a pension of ,200 a-year of the public money. : Literature Tire first printing-press established in the American colonies was one set up at Cam- bridge, in Massachusetts, in 1638, the era of the foundation of Harvard College of that place. It was established by the joint contributions of indi- viduals in Europe and America, and was imported, along with the type, from England. The first book printed was the New England version of the 41 Psalms of David," an 8vo volume of 300 pages. Books began to be printed at Boston in 1676; and printing became known in Philadelphia in 1686 ; and in New York in 1693. In the year J700 there were only four printing presses in the colo- nies. Since that period, and especially since the Revolution, the number has greatly increased. The STATE OF .NEW Y')jK. 1 1)5 Americans have copied the patent steam-press of Covvper of London, and now possess that, as well as other machines of various descriptions. Jn 1800, the number of papers had increased to 300 ; in 1840. they exceeded 2,000; and they continue to increase in number ; almost every town or village has one or more. About twenty years ago, the Cherokees, one of the tribes of native Indians, set up a press, and commenced a newspaper a circumstance presenting us with an extraordinary instance of the extension of knowledge in America. The Cherokees have a newspaper, called the t; Che- rokee Phosnix," written partly in English and partly in the Cherokee tongue, which was started and entirely conducted by a young Ciierokee, who, upon hearing a suspicion had got abroad that the editor was assisted by a white man, issued the fallowing notice : ; No white has anything to do with the management of our paper. No other person, white or red, besides the ostensible editor, lias written, since the commencement of the ' Phoe- mx,' half a column of matter which has appeared under the editorial head." This fact speaks vol- umes in favour of the intellect of the native Indians of America. At the beginning of the present century 100 original books and pamphlets were printed annually in the States. The number of original works novr t xceeds 1,200, besides reprints of nearly all books of value appearing in Great Britain and Ireland, and many translations from the French and German languages. There is likewise a large importation of books from Europe, upon which duties are im- posed, for the purpose of encouraging the native printing and publishing trade ; and as these dutiei act as a serious obstacle to the importation of books, they are by no means creditable to the legislature. 196 ririTED STATES op AMERICA. Copyright is secured in the United States for four- teen years, by depositing and recording the title of any work, map, chart, &c. at the office of the clerk cf the district, and can be renewed at the end of that term, for a further period of fourteen years. No newspaper appeared in the colonies till 1704. The name of the paper was the "News Letter," which was issued at Boston, and existed till 1776. The first paper published in Philadelphia was issued in 1719, and the first in New York in 1733. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the number of newspapers published in the States was only 37 ; in 1810 it had reached 358 ; but it would not now be easy to compute the number of periodicals under the designation of newspapers, although it cannot be under 3,000. Mr. MacCul- loch, in his " Dictionary of Commerce," says, " The increase of newspapers in the United States has been far greater than in England, a result partly, no doubt, to be ascribed to the more rapid increase of population in the Union, but in a far greater de- gree to freedom of taxation. The total number of newspapers annually issued in the United States is estimated at 55,000,000. We believe that the total number issued in Great Britain and Ireland at this moment, notwithstanding the peculiar ex- citement of the period (the Reform Bill agitation) is under 35,000,0(0; so that, making allowance for the difference of population, every individual in America has, at an average, more than twice the supply of newspapers enjoyed by individuals in England. In America newspapers are printed everywhere the postage being only at the rate of a halfpenny, or at most, three farthings. The sheeti are free from stamps or any taxation whatever. Although far from standing on the same level of literary ability as the English newspapers, th STATE OF NEW YORK. 197 newspapers of the States obtain a greater influence over tlie people than almost any other element of society. This branch of literature will, it is fondly hoped, improve in point of style, honesty, and other general characteristics, of which it is at present iu so much need." The earliest magazine attempted in the colonies was the '' General Magazine," published at Phila- delphia, by Benjamin Franklin, in 1741 ; but it only continued for six months ; and a weekly ma- gazine, which was started at Boston in 1743, was sustained only four weeks. All such works made their way for a long time slowly, and with diffi- culty. But a revolution also came in this depart- ment of literature, and in 1810 there were no fewer than twenty-six works of the nature of magazines. The number is very greatly increased, amounting, probably, to 200, many of which are of a religious nature. Boston is the busy seat of this species of literary manufacture. The leading reviews in the States are the u North American Review," published ia Boston ; the u American Quarterly Review," conducted in Philadelphia ; and the " American Monthly Re- view," in New York. The " London Quarterly Review," and the fct Edinburgh Review," as well as some other popular English, Scotch, and Irish periodicals, are regularly reprinted in the States. The Americans are allowed to be a nation of readers, and it is surprising to a stranger, in peram- bulating the streets of New York, or any of the other cities of the Union, to see the extensive traf- fic which is carried on in cheap publications. The mail packet from England has no sooner arrived than the printers are immediately set to work, and in the course of a few days, two or three editions of the most celebrated of the new works that issu 198 UMTKD STATFS OP AMKHICA. from the British press are published at a mere tithe of the English price. The pictorial news- papers of London are to be found as plentiful in New York as in the great metropolis itself. Num- bers of puny-looking urchins drive a profitable trade in these low priced publications, and upon a capital of four or five dollars, are able to dress well, smoke to their heart's content, talk politic?, and average a clear income of from twelve to fifteen dollars a-week upon this trifling outlay. But it is the newspaper press that is most patro- nised. No citizen will grudge a halfpenny for the " Tribune," or a penny for the 4t Herald," the most profligate of all the profligate newspapers in Ame- rica, the property of Mr. Bennett, a renegade Scots- man, who boasts that his daily circulation amounts to 40,000, but he can find few so foolish as to be- lieve him. Like the majority of American news- papers, the " Herald" is devoid of any pretensions to talent or honesty. Unfortunately, as every one reads in America, the newspaper press is used as an engine by the several editors, and a means of each raising his own political party in public estimation, at the expense of their opponents, and this dishonest practice is carried on to an extent unparalleled in any other country. Mr. J. F. Cooper, from whom we have already so freely quoted, says, <; The newspaper press of this country is distinguished from that of Europe in several essential particulars. While there are more prints, they are generally of a lower character. It follows that in all in which they are useful, their utility is more diffused through society, and in all in which they are hurtful, the injury they inflict is more wide spread and cor- rupting. " The great number of newspapers in America is a cause of there being so little capital, and con- STATE OF NEW YORK. 1P9 sequently so little intelligence, employed in tlii'ir management. It is also a reason of the inexac- titude of much of the news they circulate. It requires a larger investment of capital than is usual in this country, to ohtain correct information ; while, on the other hand, the great competition fenders editors reckless and impatient to fill their columns. To these circum>tances may he added the greater influence of vague and unfounded ru- mours in a vast and thinly settled country, than, on a compact population covering a small surface. " Discreet and observing men have questioned whether, after excluding the notices of deaths and marriages, one half of the circumstances that are related in the newspapers of America, are true in their essential features ; and in ca w es connected with party politics, it rnnv be questioned if even so large a proportion can be set down as accurate. " This is a terrible picture to contemplate, for when the number of prints is remembered, and the avidity with which they are read, is brought into the account, we are made to perceive that the entire nation, in a moral sense, breathes an atmos- phere of falsehoods. There is little use, however, an concealing the truth ; on the contrary, the dread in whie-h public men and writers commonly stand of the |>ower of the press to injure them, has permitted the evil to extend so far that it is scarcely exceeding the bounds of a just alarm to pay, that th-e country cannot much longer exist in safety under the malign influence that now over- shadows it. Any one who has lived long enough to note change^* of the sort, must have perceived how fast men of probity and virtue are losing their influence in the country, to be superseded by those who scarcely deem an affection of the higher Dualities necessary to their success. This fearful 200 UNITED STATES UP AMERICA. change must, in a great measure, be ascribed to the corruption of the public press, which, as a whole, owes its existence to the schemes of in- terested political adventurers. u lf newspapers are useful in overthrowing tyrants, it is only to establish a tyranny of their own. The press tyrannizes over public men', letters, the arts, the stage, and even over private life. Under the pretence of protecting public morals, it is corrupting them to the core; and under the semblance of maintaining liberty, it is gradually establishing a despotism as ruthless as grasping, and one that is quite as vulgar as thai of any Christian State known. With lorad expres- eions of freedom of opinion there is no tolerance,'' with a parade of patriotism no sacrifice of interest, and with fulsome panegyrics on propriety too fre- quently no decency. 64 In America, while the contest was for greai principle, the press aided in elevating the common character, in improving the common mind, and in maintaining the common interests ; but since the contest has ceased, and the struggle has become^ one purely of selfishness and personal interest^ it is employed as a whole in fast undermining its' own work, and in preparing the nation for some terrible reverses, if not in calling down upon it a just judgment of God " As the press of this country now exists, it would seem to be expressly devised, by the great agent of mischief to depress and destroy all that is good, and to elevate and advance all that is evil, in the nation. The little truth that is urged, is usually urged coarsely, weakened and rendered vicious by personalities ; while those who live by falsehoods, falsities, enmities, partialities, and the schemes of the designing, find the pre=is the very STATE OF NEW YORK. 201 instrument that the devils would invent to effect their designs." The Americans in general boast of their country, and wisli every person to regard it, not only as the most free, but as the most polished and most powerful nation under the sun, and accuse English travellers as slanderers and libellers for publishing as their opinions on the state of American society what is heard openly in every circle, and openly pronounced at public tables, and in the streets every day. But we must honestly confess, that there are some honourable exceptions among the citizens of America, who are content to assume for their country a rank more upon a level with other nations ; and there are even some, though com- paratively few, editors of newspapers, who fear- lessly denounce the demoralized state of the public press, as an engine for supplying the public appe- tite for obscenity, and attacks on the character of private individuals, more especially the low priced papers ; while those journals which are more par- ticularly devoted to politics, truth and honour are sacrificed for the purpose of exalting the idols of their own party. This evil is clearly seen by iome of the more upright and moral editors ; for an example of this, we will insert a short extract from the u New York Journal of Commerce." " It is with deep regret and apprehension that we per- ceive the rapid decline of the American press from th correct, moral, and healthy tone by which it was once distinguished. Better a thousand times even the charge of insipidity should be brought against our newspapers, ai it has been heretofore by English travellers and journalists, than that their columns should be enlivened with reporti ef murders, seductions, and all imaginable crimes. " A licentious and disorganising pres* was among the forerunners of the French revolution, if it did not assist in causing that terrible convulsion; jit showed the moral K 2 202 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. feeling of the people to be depraved and full of mischief, and in fit condition for the horrors that ensued : and w ometimes fear that the downward progress of the Ameri- can press, as regards moral and religious feeling}- spite of its intellectual improvement, portends evils near at hand, which compared With all that our country has yet under- gone, is but the sighing of a summer breeze in contrast with the fearful whirlwind of the tropics." i Such are the sentiments generally entertained by all American citizens who have any respect for the welfare of their country, although a licentious press deters them from openly advocating them. In this respect the inhabitants of Great Britain, despite the iniquitous taxes on knowledge, are in a preferable condition to the Americans such news- papers would not be tolerated a single day in England. But what are we to expect in a country where the law- makers act with such inconsistency of character as to be guilty of the following scene, which, to avoid t.he imputation of being slanderers, we give verbatim from one of their own prints " The New York American." "Yesterday morning Messrs. Campbell and Manry, of Tenessee, had a pugilistic encounter in the House of Assem- bly, a few minutes after it adjourned. They were much bruised, and each received a brace of black eyes. The circumstances were as follows : It appeared that early on Sunday morning Mr. Manry was very active in pro- curing a call of the blouse, in order to show to the country who were the delinquents. Mr. Campbell was among the absentees, and was brought to the bar with the rest in custody of the sergeant-at-arms. At eight o'clock when the House adjourned, the latter went to his colleague and reproached him for his conduct in aiding the call, at the same time alleging that Mr. Manry had done it with a view to injure him (Mr. Campbell) at home among hia constituents. Crimination and recrimination followed, and each gentleman honoured his opponent with the epithet of ' liar,' 'scoundrel,' and so forth. As might be xp0ctad a personal conflict was the result, and blows STA''F. <;F NKW YORK. 203 were bestowed in abundance. Not more than five mem- bers remained when the fracas commenced, and they of course did not attempt to interfere. After the belligerents had belaboured each other to their heart*' content, they suspended hostilities, and retired to their respective homes, and have not been seen since. It is said they are so well satisfied with their mutual inflictions, that no doubts are ^ntertained as to future proceedings." What would have been the result if such a dis- graceful exhibition had taken place in either of the British Houses of Parliament ? 1kg. such tri- fling affairs are common enough in flft Halls of Congress, and consequently thought little of. Another of their journals, however, justly re- marks " The Halls of Congress should not be made a gladiatorial arena, and the members of Congress should be taught to curb their passions and their tongues within the limits of parliamentary decorum. Too much latitude has been given to debate on the floor of Coiigiess the necessarr consequence of this is personal violence, for one is not lesi becoming the place than the other." As a specimen of the freedom of speech in- dulged in by American legislators we will lay he- fore our readers one extract from among thousands of a similar character. It is copied from the Courier and Enquirer, the leading daily paper of New York. "We publish, in a? -other column, the able and cor- clusive remonstrance of the excluded members of Congress from New Jersey, which was read before the House on Friday last, by Mr. Botts, of Virginia. We regret that we cannot present our readers, in connection with this calm, logical, and dignified State paper, the speech of Dr. Dun- can, of Ohio, delivered on the 9th instant, and published in the official journal of Saturday evening; as the manifesto of the Administration party on this important question. " Of six columns of the commencement of this speech, the first four are occupied with the most insane and brutal ribaldry ever uttered in a hall of legislation. It is the 204 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. mere raving of a Bedlamite. Billingsgate itself would blush for the champion of the administration ; and yet ' all the literature will, no doubt, eulogise the doctor, and award him the well-earned title of the Demosthenes of the Democracy. Mr. Benton is shorn of his laurels. In his wildest ravings he never wrought himself into the ecstasy of madness exhibited in his speech of Dr. Duncan. " We have looked through the speech with the view of culling a few specimens a few flowers of rhetoric to form a garland for Loco-focoism. But we find it a perfect garden of flowers. It is all essence, and we know not how to ma^ an extract from it. We cannot, however, in justice tflLr readers, omit to make the effort, and we must copy l^assage here and there at random. " ' As it is common here for gentlemen Whigs to give their young friends (new Whig members) advice, so I will volunteer some advice to my young friends ; and that is, to treat with contempt and scorn, all the blasting, blowing, blustering, and built/ing displays they may see, here or else- where, though the fiercest Federal lions be turned into this hall, and their "shaggy tails be erect and their jaws be- daubed with human blood," they really have no terrors ; the people have extracted their teeth ; they can do nothing but shake their manes and growl ; approach them, lay your hands upon them, they are tame ; they are like Daniel's lions ; the hand of God rested on them ; the hand of the freemen of this country rest upon the Federal lions and bullies of this day. When I first entered this hall, I entered with some trepidation such is the Whig system of puffing by the lean, lank dogs, in the character of penniless letter- writers, who beset this capitol by throngs, and whose hungry yelp is never out of hearing. 1 expected to see men gigantic in body and intellect ; such is the effect that puffing has upon the mind of objects at a dis- tance ; but when I came to mingle with the in, I found few of them whose bodily altitude exceeded that of my own ; and when I surveyed them, I saw nothing in them, men tally or physically, to be feared ; I found them just such creatures as surrounded me at home every day. I saw nothing here at which a well corn-and-pork-fed Western Buckeye would not douce his wool hat, throw off his linsey hunting shirt, roll up his sleeves, and walk right into.' " This is pretty well," continues the Courier and En- quirer. " The description of the Western Buckeye * walking into' members of Congress is certainly a neat hit. STATE OP NEW YOKK. 20,3 There is something graphic about it. We presume that the doctor sat for the portrait himself. Corn-fed he may be, but we should imagine, that with the natural instinct of animals to eschew the flesh of their own kind, the doc- tor has not been raised upon pork. At any rate, after the use of such language, he ought to be ashamed to look in the face any well educated and well behaved quadruped, of the fashion that is now selling in his native Ohio, at two dollars and a half a hundred. But again to the speech. "'Sir, with many honourable exceptions our street* and avenues are crowded with blacklegs, political jugglers, hungry expectants, loungers, lean lazaroni loafers, bank vas- sals, and Federal minions, congregated from all parts of the Union. Dandies, coxcombs, liveried drones, whose sub- sistence depends upon theft, begging, or fraud, or upon the glories of the credit and banking system.' " Let it be remembered that this vile language, the lan- guage of a cut-throat and assassin, is uttered by the leader of the administration on the floor of Congress, and is pub- lished with commendation in the official organ of the executive. " We will not insult our readers by pursuing our colla- tion of extracts. But we will ask them what can be the character of an administration, whose leading champion makes the open and boastful exhibition of the morals of a cut-throat, and the manners of a cannibal ?" "We will only trouble our readers with one case more, which we likewise extract from an American journal. " Our readers cannot have forgotten the outrageous murder that was committed in the House of Representa- tives of Arkansas last winter, by Mr. Wilson, the Speaker, who came down from his chair, deliberately drew a bowie- knife, and slew a Major Anthony. The act not only stamped Wilson as a murderer and a villain, who neither regarded the laws of God nor man, but it cast a deep stain upon our national character by its horrid barbarity ; and being done at the time and place it was, and by one who had been chosen as the presiding officer of a body which was sitting to make laws to control and restrain the savage propensities of man, and protect his person and property from violence. Viewing the act with the horror which it naturally excited, what will our readers say, and what will the civilised world say, on reading the following 2()(] UNITED STATES ',600 square miles. The soil of this State is not naturally well adapted to agricultural pursuits, much of the land being either sandy or marshy ; yet its proximity to two of the largest markets in the United States, and the industry of the inhabitants, have rendered it exceedingly productive of all sorts of grain, fruit, and vegetables common to the climate. New Jer- sey is intersected by many navigable rivers, and has numerous streams for mills, iron works, and every species of manufactures requiring water power. The principal of these streams are the Raritan, Hackensack, Passaic, Salem, Tow, Cohan - zey, and Maurice Rivers. New Jersey abounds in valuable iron ores. Rich veins of zinc ore occur in the northern part of the State. Copper also abounds, and has been exten- sively worked. The greater part of the sandy tract is covered with extensive pine forests, which have afforded supplies of fuel for the numerous furnaces of the State and the steam -boats of the neighbour- STATE OF NEW JKKSEV. 213 ing waters. The middle section is the most highly improved and wealthy part of the State, being divided into small farms and kitchen gardens, which are carefully cultivated, and which find a ready market in the numerous manufacturing towns of the district and in the great cities of the adjacent States. The northern counties contain much good pasture land, with numerous fine farms. The apples and cider of the north are as noted for their superior quality as the peaches of the south. The industry of the inhabitants is chiefly devoted to agriculture, commerce being mostly carried on through the ports of New York and Pennsylvania. The north-eastern corner, however, is the seat of flourishing manufactures. The shad and oyster fisheries in the rivers and great estuaries that bor- der on the State afford a profitable employment to many of the inhabitants. The value of the iron manufactures has been estimated at upwards of one million dollars annually ; of glass, half a mil- lion ; of cottons, two millions ; of woollens, a quarter of a million. Hats, boots and shoes, car- riages, harness, &c., are also largely produced. The system of common school instruction has been much improved in this State, by the efforts of the friends of education. The State possesses a school fund, which commenced in 1816. The in- come from it, which is about 22,000 dollars, is annually distributed in small sums to such towns as raise an equal amount for the support of schools. There are two colleges in New Jersey ; the College f New Jersey, or Nassau Hall, at Princeton, is a highly respectable institution : it has 13 teachers, upwards of 200 students, an extensive library, (fee. llutger's College, at New Brunswick, was founded by the Dutch Reformed Church, and has a theolo- gical seminary connected with it. The Presbyte- 214 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. rians are here the prevalent sect; but the Bap tists, Methodists, Dutch Reformed, Episcopalians, and Quakers, are numerous ; and there are some Roman Catholics, Universalists, &c. Several important canal and railroad routes connect the eastern and western waters, or unite the different sections of the State. The Morris Canal extends from Jersey city to the De- laware, opposite Easton, 102 miles; inclined planes have been in part used instead of locks, and the boats raised or let down in a frame or cradle moved by water power. The Delaware and Rari- tau Canal, uniting the" waters of the navigable rivers from which it takes its name, extends from Bordentown, through Trenton to New Brunswick, 45 miles, admitting vessels of 100 tons; a navi- gable feeder, 23 miles in length, extends from Bull's Island, in the Delaware, to Trenton. The Camden and Amboy Railroad is an important work on the great line of travel between the north and south, 61 miles in length. The Paterson and Hudson Railroad, from Paterson to Jersey city, opposite New 7 York, is 14 miles long ; the New- Jersey Railroad extends from New Brunswick, through Newark, to the last mentioned road, a few miles from the Hudson, 28 miles in length ; and the Camben and Woodbury Railroad, 8 miles long. The city of Trenton, on the east bank of the Delaware, at the head of sloop navigation, is the capital of the State. It is regularly laid out, and contains the State House, State Prison, twelve churches. A wooden bridge, 1,000 feet in length, here crosses the river just below the Falls, and the Delaware and Raritan Canal passes through the city. The Falls afford extensive water power for manufacturing purposes, and there are several STATE OF NKW JERSEY. 21,5 mills and manufactories in the yicinity. Popula- tion about 6,000. Ten miles from Trenton is the village of Princeton, the seat of New Jersey Col- lege, and celebrated in the revolutionary history for the action of January 3, 1777. The city of New Brunswick, at the head of sloop navigation on the Raritan, and at the ter- mination of the Delaware and Raritan Canal, and the New Jersey Railroad, is the depot of the pro- duce of a fertile district, and a place of considerable trade. The upper streets are spacious and hand- some, and command a fine prospect. Here are Rutger's College, and a "theological seminary of the Dutch Reformed Church. The population of the city exceeds 8,500. At the mouth of the Raritan stands the city of Amboy, or Perth Amboy, with a good harbour, which, however, is little used. Elizabeth-Town is a pretty and thriving town, near Newark Bay, with about 5,000 inhahitants, and several mills. The city of Newark, the largest and mo^t im- portant town in New Jersey, stands on the Pas- saic, three miles from Newark Bay, and has easy communication with New York by means of steamboats and the New Jersey Railroad ; the Morris Canal also passes through the city. New- ark is prettily situated and well built, with spa- cious streets and handsome houses, many of which are ornamented with shady trees. The manufac- tures are extensive, and its surplus produce ex- ported is estimated at 10,000.000 dollars annually. Carriages, boots and shoes, saddlery, jewellery, hats, 9 Lake Drummond, fifteen miles in circuit ; a canal is carried through it from Norfolk to Albemarle Sound. Between Albemarle and Pimlico Sound is another, called Alligator or Little Dismal Swamp ; this has been partly drained by means of a canal, and the land rendered tit for the cultiva- tion of rice. These swamps have a clay bottom, over which lies a thick stratum of vegetable com- post. The drained lands are found to be exceed- ingly fertile. The pine forests of this State, which cover nearly the whole of the eastern part, yield not only much lumber for exportation, but nearly all the resinous matter used in ship-building in America. The resinous products are turpentine, spirits of turpen- tine, rosin, tar and pitch ; turpentine is merely the !*ap of the tree obtained by making an incision in the bark ; the turpentine flows out in drops, which fall into a box placed to receive them. Among the mineral productions the most impor- tant appear to be gold and iron. The gold region of North Carolina embraces the section on both sides of the Blue Rridge, and extends to the east of the Yadkin. The deposite or surface mines are the most easily worked, but the vein mines are the most durable. In almost any part of the district, gold may be found in greater or less abundance mixed with the soil. It exists in grains or masses from almost imperceptible particles, to pieces of one or two pounds weight ; one of the largests lumps ever found, was dug up in Cabarras county it was worth between seven and eight thousand dollars. Lumps of the value of from one hundred to one thousand dollars are not uncommon. There are innumerable diggings over the whole State, and hosts of adventurers, relinquishing all other employments, are digging the hill- sides for gold. 2f)0 UNITED STATES <>F AMERICA. The opening of the mines indubitably proves that they were known in past ages; crucibles and other mining instruments have been repeatedly dis- covered under circumstances to preclude the possi- bility of their having been left there by the descendants of the European races. The great diversity of climate between the eastern lowlands and the western high country, produces a corresponding diversity in the agricul- tural productions of the two sections ; while the former yields cotton, rice, and indigo, the more northern grains and fruits thrive in the latter, which yields wheat, Indian corn, tobacco and hemp. The cotton crop of North Carolina is about o(KOOO bales annually. Manufactures can hardly be said to exist, except in the shape of household industry ; and the dangers of the coast, and the want of good harbours, carry the trade of North Carolina chiefly through Virginia, South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee. Nor has much been done in this State towards extending the facilities for trans- portation, although the most important productions are of a bulky character, requiring cheap and easy modes of conveyance. The Dismal Swamp Canal is partly, and its branch, the North-west Canal wholly, in this State. The Clubfoot and Harlow Canal connects the Neuse with the harbour of Beaufort, and there are several side-cuts round the falls of the rivers. There is a railroad from Raleigh, the capital of the State, to the Roanoke. The University of North Carolina, at Chapel Hill, about thirty miles from Raleigh, is the prin- cipal educational institution in the State. There are numerous academies, but no system of general education has been adopted. The Methodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians are the most numerous STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 2(5 1 religious sects ; and there are also a good many Episcopalians, with some Lutherans, Moravians, Quakers, and Roman Catholics. North Carolina is divided into sixty five counties. The population, in 1820, was 638,829 ; in 1830, 738,470; in 1840, 840,111 ; and is now estimated at 950,000, of which 330,000 are slaves ! Raleigh, the capital of the State, not far from the west bank of the Neuse, is a thriving town with ahout 3,000 inhabitants. A fine State House of granite is now erected, in place of one destroyed by fire in 1831, when Canova's beautiful statue of Washington was unfortunately destroyed. Fay- etteville is a busy and flourishing town at the head of boat navigation on Cape Fear River, with 3,500 inhabitants. It contains a United States armoury. Salem, Salisbiiry, and Charlotte are small but rising towns in this section. The last-mentioned has of late rapidly increased in population and importance on account of its proximity to the gold mines, and contains a mint for the coinage of gold. Beaufort, the only port of North Carolina directly upon the sea, admits vessels drawing twelve feet of water. The harbour is safe and commodious, but the town is inconsiderable. Wil- mington, forty miles from the sea, on Cape Fear River, is the most important commercial town of the State, and it carries on a considerable trade with the West Indies. The population is ahout 5,000. Newbern, on the south bank of the River Neuse, eighty miles from Pimlico Sound, is a place of some commerce, although large vessels cannot come up to the town, and the navigation is tedious and difficult for smaller craft. Newbern is plea- santly situated and well built, and, with a popula- tion of 6,372 souls, is the principal town in the 2()2 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. State. Washington and Tarboro' on the Pimlico River, Plymouth and Halifax on the Roanoke, Edentori on the Chowan, and Elizabeth on the Pasquotank, are small but promising trading towns with rapidly increasing populations. 263 STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. THE State of South Carolina is bounded on the north and north-east hy North Carolina, south- east by the Atlantic Ocean, and south-west by Georgia, from which it is separated by the Savan- nah River. It is in length 188 miles by 160 in breadth, the area being about 30,000 square miles. The rivers of South Carolina afford some consi- derable navigable facilities for small river craft, but in the lower part of their course they are shallow and obstructed by bars. The principal are the Waccamaw, Pedee, Black River, San tee, Cooper, Ashley, Stono, Edisto, Asbapo, Combahee, Coosan, Broad, and Savannah. The harbours of this State are generally of little value ; but the coast presents numerous entrances, which are accessible to small vessels, and which afford advantages for an active coasting trade. The harbour of Charleston is obstructed at the entrance by a dangerous sand-bank, and that of Georgetown will only admit small vessels. The harbour of Beaufort or Port Royal is the best in the State, and is large enough to receive a navy, but is little frequented. Stone Inlet has about ten feet of water, and was used during the blockade of Charleston, in 1775. St. Helena Sound is the 264 UNITED STATES OF AME1UCA. most spacious opening for a great distance along the coast, but, although nearly three miles wide and ten miles long, it is too much beset with shoals to be of any great commercial value. The sea coast is bordered with a fine chain of islands, between which and the shore there is a very convenient navigation. The mainland is by nature divided into the lower and upper country. The low country extends 80 or 100 miles into the coast, and is covered with extensive forests of pitch-pine, called pine barrens, interspersed with swamps and marshes of a rich soil. Beyond this is the sand-hill region, sixty miles in width, the sterile hills of which have been compared to the arrested waves of the sea in a storm. To this dis- tance the broad extent of country is denominated the lower country ; beyond it we approach the ridge of upper country, the Atlantic ascent of which is precipitous. From the summit stretches a fine belt of table-land, fertile and well cultivated, watered by rivers and irrigated by smaller streams, extending from the Savannah to Broad River. The country beyond the ridge resembles in its scenery the most interesting of the Northern States. The traveller is gratified by the pleasant alternation of hill and dale ; the lively verdure of the hills is contrasted with the deeper tints of the extensive forests which decorate their sides ; and in the val- leys broad rivers roll their streams through the varied beauties of luxuriant and cultivated fields. The ascent hence to the mountains is gradual and imperceptible. A number of mountains of striking forms here swell with their peaks to a very consi- derable elevation. Table Mountain is the most conspicuous. Its summit is 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. The low country of this State is infested with STATK OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 265 many of the diseases which spring from a warm, moist, and unelastic atmosphere. Of these the most frequent are fevers, from which the inhabi- tants suffer more than from any, or perhaps from all other diseases, together. The districts of the upper country enjoy as salubrious a climate as any part of the United States. During the most unhealthful period of the year, it is customary for the more wealthy Carolinians to seek relaxation in a tour through the Northern States, or in a sojourn at some of the watering-places in the up- land country. The staple commodities of South Carolina are cotton and rice, of which great quantities are an- nually exported. The cotton crop of this State amounts annually to about 66,000,000, pounds, of which a great pro- portion is the much-prized long staple or sea-island kind. Rice, first introduced in 1693, is raised only in the low country, where the immense swamps in which it is grown may be easily irri- gated by means of the tide in the rivers. The rice exported from the United States, chiefly the pro- duce of South Carolina, varies from 130,000 to 180,000 tierces, of the value of from two to three million dollars. Indigo was for some time one of the staples of this State. Its cultivation was in- troduced near the middle of last century, and at the breaking out of the revolutionary war about 1,000,000 pounds were annually exported ; but toward the commencement of the present century the price was so much lowered by large importa- tions from the East Indies into England that it gave way to cotton, which is now raised on the same lands. The manufactures of South Carolina are of very little importance ; but the commerce of the Stat N 266 TLMTED STATES OF AMERICA. is necessarily extensive. It consists in the exports of her own raw produce, including rice, cotton, tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber, and of the produc- tions of Georgia and North Carolina, and in the import of manufactured articles, wines, tropical fruits, &c., for home consumption. The region in which gold is found extends through this State. Although the mines are abun- dant, the diggings have been less numerous there than in North Carolina. Various ochres, used in painting, are found near Yorkville. Marble, lime- stone, iron and lead ore, potters' clay, fullers* earth, nitrous earth, talc, and most of the useful fossils are common. Free schools for poor children have been esta- blished throughout the State ; and upon a rough estimate about 9,000 are instructed, at a charge of nearly 40,000 dollars. There is a number of useful and respectable academies. The Charleston Col- lege in Charleston, and the College of South Caro- lina at Columbia are valuable institutions. The latter has a valuable and well-selected library, and has been liberally endowed by the State. There are three medical schools in Charleston, a Presby- terian theological seminary at Columbia, a Lutheran theological seminary at Lexington, and a Baptist theological seminary at the High Hills. These are the three prevailing religious beets, but there are many Episcopalians and some Roman Catholics. Several useful canals have been constructed in this State, but none of them are of great extent ; the Santee Canal extends from the head of sloop navi- gation on Cooper's River, 34 miles from Charles- ton, to the river Sautee, a distancw of 22 miles, and forms the channel to the s-ea for large quantities of the produce of the upper country. The Charleston and Augusta Railroad, extending from the former STATE OF SUUTH CAROLINA. 267 city to Hamburg on the Savannah, opposite Au- gusta, is 13% miles. There is also another railroad of immense value to South Carolina the Charles- ton and Cincinnati railroad, which is 600 miles in length, and cost nearly twelve million dollars. This is a spirited undertaking ; the railroad passes through Columbia, up the Broad River into North Carolina, surmounts the Blue Ridge by inclined planes, and follows down the valley of the French Broad River to Knoxville, whence it is continued through Lexington to the Ohio River.. South Carolina is divided into twenty -nine dis- tricts, which are subdivided for local objects into parishes. Of the population of this State, the blacks are more numerous than the whites, and as they are unequally distributed, their numerical superiority is still greater in the low country, where they are to the whites (including free blacks) as three to one ; in the hilly country, the whites are rather the most numerous ; and in the western part of the State there are nearly three whites to one black. In 1820, the population (white and black) was 502,741 ; in 1830, 581,458; in 1840, 660,175; and is now (1850) estimated at 750,000, of which, at the lowest calculation, 130,000 are slaves. Slavery as it exists in South Carolina presents features of atrocity more dreadful than could be pointed out in any other part of the world, if we except the neighbouring slave-holding States, it is remarkable that all travellers concur in one un- varying account of its abominations. We will here insert a few extracts, pointing out the miserable condition of persons in slavery in North America. Mr. Stewart thus mentions what he saw in Charles- toil : 2^8 UNITED STATES OF AMKIUCA. "It was at once obvious, from the style of the town, and the appearance of the people, many of them but meanly apparelled, and from the great number of coloured people, that I was now in a slave-holding State. In fact the coloured population is greater than the white popula- tion in the State of South Carolina. Early in the forenoon I went to the race-ground ; although there were constables at the starting-post to prevent the people from coming on the course, one of the stewards appeared very much to envy their calling, for no sooner did a man of colour appear on the course, and within his reach, than he struck him with his horsewhip. No wonder that these people thirst for vengeance. Here, on the race-course, there were at least two men of colour for every white person, yet they were obliged to submit to treatment which the white man dared not even to have threatened to a person of his own colour. " On returning to the hotel, I found a gentleman had in my absence called for me, and left a note asking me to dine with him next day. Having written my answer ac- cepting the invitation, I went to the bar-room to beg Mr. Street to send it by one of the boys, of whom there were several about the house, but he at once told me that he could not send any of his slaves out of the house. The bar-keeper, Mr. Ferguson, seeing my dilemma, offered to carry my note, and the landlord consented. Ferguson, however, afterwards told me that the landlord had been very ill pleased with him for showing me so much civility, because he knew that his presence was always necessary in the bar-room. Ferguson, at the same time, told me that. the slaves were most cruelly treated in this house, and that they were never allowed to go out of it, because as BOOH as they were out of sight, they would infallibly make all the exertion in their power to run away. Next morning, looking from my window an hour before breakfast, I saw Mrs. Street, the landlady, give a young man, a servant, *uch a blow behind the ear as made him reel, and I after- wards found that it was her daily and hourly practice to beat her servants, male and female, either with her fist, or with a thong made of cow-hide. "I took a long drive in an open carriage to see the neighbourhood of Charleston. My driver was a free-man of colour. He gave a frightful account of the treatment to which he and all the people of colour, whether free or slaves, are subject in this State. He had been accustomed formerly to go every season to the State of New York STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 269 daring the period, when, owing to the inhabitants leaving the city, business was almost at a stand ; but by an act passed a few years ago, it is declared that a free person of colour leaving the State, though merely crossing the boundary, shall never be allowed to return, and as this per- son has a wife and family, he feels himself really and truly a prisoner in the State of South Carolina. The same law declares that it shall not be lawful for free persons of colour to come from another State into this. I was placed in a situation at Charleston," continues Mr. Stuart, " which gave me too frequent opportunities to witness the effects of slavery in its most aggravated state. Mrs. Street treated aU the servants in the house in the most barbarous manner, and this, although she knew that Stewart, the hotel keeper here, had lately nearly lost his life by maltreating a slave. He beat his cook, who was a stout fellow, until he could no longer support it. He rose upon his master, and in his turn gave him such a beating that it had nearly cost him his life. The cook immediately left the house, ran off, and was never afterwards heard of ; it is supposed that he had drowned himself. Not a day, however, passed with- out my hearing of Mrs. Street whipping and ill-using her unfortunate slaves. On one occasion, when one of the female slaves had disobliged her, she beat her until her own strength was exhausted, and then insisted on the bar- keeper, Mr. Ferguson, proceeding to inflict the rest of the punishment. Mr^. Street in the meantime took her plac in the bar-room. His nature was repugnant to the execu- tion of the duty which was imposed upon him. He gave a wink to the girl, who understood it and bellowed lustily, while he made the whip crack on the walls of the room. Mrs. Street expressed herself to be quite satisfied with th way in which Ferguson had executed her instructions ; but, unfortunately for him, his lenity to the girl became known in the house, and the subject of merriment, and was one of the means for his dismissal before I left the house. But I did not know of the most atrocious of all the proceed- ings of this cruel woman until the very day that I quitted the house. I had put up my clothes in my portmanteau when I was about to set out, but finding it was rather too full, I had difficulty in getting it closed to allow me to lock it ; I therefore told one of the boys to send me one of the Btouiest of the men to assist me. A great robust fellow Boon afterwards appeared, whom I found to be the cook, with tears in his eyes. I asked him what was the matter ? He told me that just at the time when the boy called for 270 UNITED STATfS Or AMIHICA. him, he had got so sharp a blow on the cheek bone, from this devil in petticoats as had unmanned him for the mo- ment. Upon my expressing commiseration for him, he paid he viewed this as nothing, but that he was leading a life of terrible suffering . that about two years had elapsed since he and his wife, with his two children, had been ex- posed for sale in the public market at Charleston ; that he had been purchased by Mrs. Street ; that his wife and children had been purchased by a different person ; and that though he was living in th same town with them, he never was allowed to see them ; he would be beaten within an ace of his life if he ventured to go to the corner of the street." The Duke of Saxe Weimar, in his travels, men- tions that he visited the jail of Charleston, and says " The black overseers go about everywhere armed with cow-hides ; that in the basement story there is an appara- tus upon which the negroes (slaves) by order of the police, or at the request of the masters, are flogged ; that the ma- chine consists of a sort of crane, on which a cord with two nooses runs over pulleys; the nooses are made fast to the hands of the slave and drawn up, while the feet are bound tight to a plank ; that the body is stretched out as much as possible, and thus the miserable creature receives the exact number of lashes as counted off. The public sale of slaves in the market-place, at Charleston occurs frequently. I was present at two slave sales where, especially at one of them, the miserable creatures were in tears on account of their being separated from their relations and friends. At one of them, a young woman of sixteen or seventeen was eparated from her father and mother, and all her relations, and every one she had formerly known. This not un frequently happens, although I was told and believe that there is a general wish to keep relations together where it can be done." The following extract of a letter from a gentle- man at Charleston, published in the New York newspapers, contains a more shocking account of the public sale of slaves in that city : STATE OF S'FTH CAKOLINA. 2?1 * f CivriosTty sometimes leads me to the auction sales of the negroes. A few days since I attended one which exhibited the beauties of slavery in all their sickening de- formity. The bodies of these wretched beings were placed upright on a table, their physical proportions examined their defects and beauties noted. * A prime lot, here they go.' There T saw the father looking sullen, and expressing an indignation in his countenance that he dare not speak ; and the mother, pressing her infant closer to her boso M with an involuntary grasp, and exclaiming in wild an simple earnestness, while the tears chased down her cheek in quick succession, ' I can't leff my children I won't left my children,' But down the hammer went, reckless alike whether it united or sundered for ever. On another stand, I saw a man apparently as white as myself, exposed for sale. I turned away from, the humiliating spectacle, "At another time I saw the concluding scene of this in- fernal drama, It was on the wharf. A slave-ship for New Orleans was lying in the stream, and the poor negroes, hand-cuffed and pinioned, were hurried off in boats, eight at a time. Here I witnessed the last farewell the heart- rending separation of every earthly tie. The mute and agonising embrace of husband and wife, and the convul- sive grasp of the mother and the child, were alike torn asun- der for ever ! It was a living death they never see or hear of each other more. Tears flowed fast, and mine with the rest." Such is the horrid condition of slaves in the Southern States of America. We could cite num- berless authorities, hut. we think we have already stated sufficient to prove that North American slaves are degraded to the condition of brutes. Charleston, the principal city of South Carolina,, and the only considerable city in the Atlantic States, south of the Potomac, stands on a point of land between the Ashley artd Cooper Rivers, six: miles from the ocean. The city is regularly laid out, with streets running east and west from Ashley to Cooper. River, and others intersecting them nearly at right angles, from north to south. It is also in general well built. Among the public buildings 272 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. are many churches, the City Hall, Exchange, two Arsenals, Theatre, College Hall, Alms-houses, Orphan Asylum, opposite the extreme point of the city within. Columbia, the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated on the Congaree, below the junction of the Saluda and Broad Rivers. It is regularly laid out with very wide streets, and is a neatly built town with upwards of 5,000 inhabitants. It contains a handsome State House, a Lunatic Asylum, the Halls of South Carolina College, several churches, &c. Granby is a little town on fhe opposite side of the river. Cam den is a place of some trade, situated on a rising ground on the Wateree, with upwards of 2,000 inhabitants. Beaufort, to the south of Charleston, is a little town on Port Royal Island, about sixteen miles irom the sea, with a fine harbour, which is little used. Georgetown, to the north, on Wingaw Bay, being the depot of an extensive and well cultivated STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 2?3 district, has considerable trade, but is accessible to vessels of light draught of water only. It is, how- ever, unhealthy, and during the autumn many of the inhabitants resort to North Island, at the mouth of the bay. Cheraw is also a small trading town on the Pedee, near the North Carolina line. In the middle county, Orangeburg, Hamburg, Camden, and Columbia are the principal towns. Hamburg derives its importance from its being the inland terminus of the railroad from Charleston to the Savannah River. 274 STATE OF GEOBGIA. GEORGIA, is bounded north by Tennessee and North Carolina, north-east by South Carolina, and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, south, by Flo- rida, and west by Alabama. Length, 300 miles ; breadth, 200 ; area, 58,000 square miles. The principal rivers of Georgia are the Savannah (which forms the boundary between it and South Caro- ling), Alatamaha, Ogeechee, Satilla, Ockmulgee, Oconee, St. Mary's, Flint, Chattahoochee, Talla- poosa, and Coosa. The coast of Georgia, for four or five miles inland, is a salt marsh, mostly uninha- bited. In front of this, towards the sea, there is a chain of islands of a grey, rich soil, covered in their natural state with pine, hickory, and live-oak, and yielding, on cultivation, the finest quality of long staple or sea island cotton. The principal of these islands are Wassaw, Ossabaw, St. Catherine, Sa- pelo, St. Simon's, Jekyl, and Cumberland. Be- hind the swamps which line the coast, commences that extensive range of pine- barrens, closely resem- bling those of South Carolina ; above this range the country begins to be pleasantly diversified by gentle undulations. This region is bounded on the west by the Blue Ridge, which here sjvells into elevations 1500 feet in height, which thence sub- side, and are lost iu the sea. Beyond the moun- STATE OF GEORGIA. 275 tains is an extensive and rich table country, with a black soil of great fertility. The climate of Georgia differs but little from that of South Carolina. The low country planters have their sickly season and their summer retreats in the high pine woods. The districts central to the rice swamps in the Carolina^ and Georgia are generally insalubrious. There are districts in this State that approach nearer to tropical temperature than any part of South Carolina and better adapted to the sugar-cane, olive, and sweet orange. The hilly and western parts are as healthy as any in America. As an average of the temperature, winter may be said to commence in the middle of December, and terminate in the middle of Febrn ary. The climate of the low country compares very nearly with that of Louisiana. The mineral resources of Georgia are very im perfectly known ; copper and iron have been found, but the most valuable mineral production hitherto has been gold. Although first found here, com- paratively but a few years ago, a large quantity has already been procured, chiefly from deposits, and scarcely any attempts have been made to carry on systematic mining operations. The gold occurs in the northern parts of the State, on both sides of the Chattahoochee, as far north as the Blue Ridge, and to a considerable, but not well ascertained dis- tance on the south. The Indian Springs of Butt's County are sulphureous waters, and are much re- sorted to for efficiency in cutaneous and rheumatic complaints. The Madison Springs, near Athens, are chalybeate. The great agricultural staples of Georgia are cotton and rice ; the cotton crop is estimated at about 300,000 bales ; the export of rice is about 25,000 casks annually. The other exports are 276 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber, the products of the pine forests. Georgia is well supplied with useful navigable channels, which are highly necessary for the trans- portation of its bulky staples. A canal from the Savannah, to the Ogeechee, thirteen miles, is the only artificial channel of navigation. There is, however, the Georgia Railroad from Augusta to Athens, 114 miles, with branches to Greensboro* and Warrenton, and the Central Railroad, from Savannah to Macon, 200 miles ; this latter is car- ried twenty-five miles farther from Macon to For- syth. Another railroad has also been constructed from Athens to the Tennessee. The State has an academic fund, the proceeds of which, amounting to about 20,000 dollars annually, are distributed among the academies, of which there are a number highly respectable. There is also a poor school fund, the income of which, amounting to nearly the same sum, is divided among the counties, according to their respective populations ; but no general system of education has been established. There is a college at Athens, styled the University of Georgia. The Baptists and Methodists are numerous, and the Presbyte- rians, Episcopalians, and Christians number many adherents. There are also some Roman Catholics, Quakers, Lutherans, &c. Georgia is divided into ninety counties. The population of this State was, in 1820, 348,989; in 1830, 516,567; in 1840, 682,145; and is now (1850,) estimated at 750,000 ; the number of slaves, 360,000, or nearly one-half of the whole population ! The City of Savannah is advantageously, situated for a commercial town, being accessible to large ships from the sea, and communicating with the STATE OF GEORGIA. 277 interior by the noble river on which it stands. It is built on the southern side of the Savannah, on a high bank, rising about fifty feet above water, from which it makes a fine appearance, with its spacious and regular streets, and its handsome public build- ings mingling beautifully with the groves of trees which surround them and adorn the squares and principal streets. The site was formerly unhealthy, on account of the surrounding swamps, but this evil has been cured by judicious drainings, and by the substitution of the dry for the wet culture of rice around the city. In 1820 it suffered so much from a terrible fire, that its prosperity received a temporary check, and the population was less by 100 in 1830 than it had been in 1820; but it has rapidly recovered from this shock, and is now one of the most flourishing cities in the Southern States, its population having increased from 7,423, in 1830, to upwards of 15,000, in 1850. Savannah is the chief commercial depot in the State, and most of the cotton and rice, with large quantities of the other articles of exportation, pass through this port. The exports exceed fifteen million dollars annually ; thirty steamboats of a large class, and a great number of steam to^r-boats are employed on the river ; and the shipping of the port amounts to nearly 18,000 tons. Among the public build- ings are au Exchange, City Hall, Hospital, Theatre, several churches, &c. The City of Augusta, the great interior empo- rium of Georgia, stands on the Savannah, at the head of steamboat navigation. It is handsomely built, and contains a City Hall, Hospital, Arsenal, Theatre, numerous churches, &c. It is connected with Hamburg by a bridge across the Savannah, 1,20" feet long. Population about 12,000. Au- gusta is the depot of an extensive tract of produc- UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. tive and populous cour.try, and is connected with the ^ea by the Charleston and Hamburg Railroads, and the Savannah River. 175.000 bales of cotton are annually brought into the city. Milledgeville, the capital of the State, is plea- santly situated on the Oconee, and is a place of some trade, with a population of upwards of 3,000 inhabitant. Its contains the State-house, the Peni- tentiary, on the Auburn plan, (fee Athens, a thriving little town, above Milledgeville, is the seat of the University of Georgia. Macon, on the Ocmulgee, consisted, in 1822, of a single cabin; in 1830, it had a population of 2,600 ; in 1840, 4,200 ; and at present the num- ber of inhabitants exceeds 7,000. Its trade is ex- tensive and growing, and there are many saw and grist mills in the vicinity. Several steamboats, besides numerous tow-boats and pole-boats, are employed on the Ocmulgee. Columbus is situated on the Chattahoochee, just below the Falls, and 430 miles from the sea. The town was first laid out in 1828, when the site was yet covered with the native forest, and in 1835 it contained 4 000 inhabitants, with several churches, newspapers, &c. Since then the number of inha- bitants have increased to about 10.000. Steam- boats sail regularfy from here to New Orleans, and about 80,000 bales of cotton are now annually shipped from the town. Darien is a nent and thriving 1 little town, with an active trade in cotton, and in the lumber which is brought down the river in large quantities. Its population is about 4,500. St. Mary's, a small town, on the river of the same name, just above its entrance into Cumberland Sound, derives im- portance from its deep and commodious harbour. 279 FLOBIDA TERRITORY. FLORIDA is bounded north by Alabama and Georgia, from the last of which it is separated in part by the river St. Mary's ; east by the Atlantic Ocean ; south and west by the Gulf of Mexico. Formerly the name of Florida was applied to the whole country east of the Mississippi, and bounded on the north as follows : by the River St. Mary's, from the sea to its source ; thence west, to the junction of the Flint River with the Appalachicola ; then up the Appuciiicola to the parallel of thirty- one degrees north latitude ; then due west, along that parallel to the Mississippi. The river Appa- luchicola divided this country into East and West Florida. The part lying between the Mississippi and Pear River is now included in the State of Louisiana ; the part between the Pearl River and the Perdido, belongs to the States of Mississippi and Alabama ; and the part east of the Perdido is the country that is now called Florida. Its mean length, from north to south, is 380 miles, and the mean breadth, 150, the area being 57,750 square miles. The surface of Florida is in general level, and not much elevated above the sea. It is intersected by numerous pouds, lakes, and rivers, of which the 280 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. principal are the St John's. Appalachicola, Suwnnep, Ocklockony, Choctawhatchie, Escumbia, and Yel- low Water Rivers. The southern part of th^ peninsula is a mere marsh, and terminates at Cape Sable, in heaps of sharp rocks, interspersed with a scattered growth of shrubby pines. The Gulf Stream setting along the coast has here worn away the land, forming those islands, keys, and rocks known by the general name of the Reefs, and by the Spaniards called " Cayos," between which and the main land is a navigable channel. These islands contain some settlements and many good harbours. One of the most important is Key West, or Thompson's Island, six miles long and two in breadth, on which is the town of Key West, a naval station, and the seat of an admiralty court. The harbour is good and commodious, and of suffi- cient depth of water to admit the largest vessels. The eddies, which set towards the shore from the Gulf Stream, cause many shipwrecks on this part of the coast, furnishing employment to the Bahama wreckers. The soil of Florida is, in some parts, especially on the banks of the rivers, equal to any in the world ; in other parts it is indifferent ; and there are large tracts which are said to be of little value. Live oak timber, one of the most valuable pro- ducts of Florida, is cut and exported to a consider- able amount ; also cedar logs, boards, staves, hides, tallow, and bees -wax. The fig, pomegranate, orange, and date, are among the fruits ; cotton is the chief agricultural staple, the annual crop being 60,000 bales ; the sugar-cane is also pretty exten- sively cultivated ; rice is raised in large quantities, and indigo formerly furnished a valuable article of exportation, but is now only raised for home con- sumption. But Florida is, on the whole, better FLORIDA TERRITORY. 281 suited for a grazing country ; and its vast herds of cattle, horses, swine, &c. find a boundless extent of range in its tine pastures. The climate, from October to June, is generally salubrious ; but the months of July, August, and September are extremely hot and uncomfortable ; and during this season fevers are prevalent. At St. Augustine, however, the climate is delightful, and this place is the resort of invalids. The population of Florida, in 1830, amounted to 34,720 ; the different classes of which were whites, 18,375 ; free coloured, 844 ; slaves, 15,501. In 1850 the population is estimated at 45,000 ; the different classes in proportion to the former computation. In 1830 there were about 3,000 Indians not in- cluded in the census. They were known under the name of Seminolee, bufc they belonged to the Muscogee or Creek nation, from whom, however, they had been long politically separated. Gradu- ally driven back from their original hunting grounds to the great morass of the south, they were induced to enter into a treaty to abandon the territory, and remove to the west. Preparati3ns were made fur their removal in 1835, but they showed great re- luctance to go, and finally commenced open hostili- ties under an able chief, named Oseola. As might have leen expected, they were discomfited. St. Augustine, the oldest town in the United States, stands at the junction of two small creeks, called the Matanzas and the North River. It is regularly built, but the streets are narrow; the houses are generally two stories high, surrounded with balconies and piazzas, and built of a shell- stone, or concretion of shells and sand. The Nun- nery, now used as barracks, is an imposing struc- ture in the Spanish style ; there is a monument 282 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. about forty feet high, in the public square, com- memorative of the Spanish Constitution ; and the Castle of St. Marks is a massive and a nohle work, completed in 1716. Although the country is poor, y<>t there are many gardens in and around the town ; the beautiful orange groves, which orna- mented the neighbourhood, and were very profit- able to their owners, were mostly blasted by the severe cold in 1834-35. To the "north of St. Au- gustine, on Amelia Island, is the little village of Fernandina, during the embargo and late war an important depot. Jacksonville, on the St. John's, is a flourishing town, forming the depot of the trade of the sur- rounding country ; it is also a considerable tho- roughfare, and the East Florida Railroad runs from this point to St. Marks. St. Marks is the Chipping port of a populous and productive dis- trict, and is a growing town, with a good harbour; the entrance affords twelve feet of water, but up to the town, eight miles from the sea, the bay only carries rune feet. A railroad, twenty- one miles in length, connects St. Marks with Talla- hassee, the capital of the State; and another, IPO miles long, from hence to Brunswick, in Georgia. Tallahassee stands on an eminence, in a fertile dis- trict, and contains the Capitol, several churches, banks, &c., with about 2,000 inhabitants. Appa- ls chicola is a flourishing little town, at the mouth of the river of the same name. About 50,000 bales of cotton are annually exported from Appa- lachicola. St. Josephs, on the bay of the same name, is also a place of growing trade ; the bay affords twenty-five to thirty- three feet of water, and is \vell sheltered from all winds. A railroad from St. Josephs to the little lake or lagoon of Winnico, con- FLORIDA TERRITORY. 2S3 nects the town with the River Appalachieola. Pen- Bacola, on the bay of the same name, is important as a naval station of the United States ; it is acces- sible to small vessels through Santa Rosa Sound, a long, shallow lagoon, sheltered by the Island of Santa Rosa, which also fronts the Bay of Pensa- w>la, and through the main channel to ships of war, up to the Navy-yard, about six miles below the town. Population of Pensacola about 3 T 500 284 STATE O'F ALABAMA. THE State of Alabama is bounded on the north by Tennessee, east by Georgia, south by Florida, arid west by the State of Mississippi. Length 280 miles; breadth 160 miles; area 46, COO square miles. The principal rivers are the Alabama, Tom- beckbe, Black Warrior, Coosa, Tallapoosa, Ten- nessee, Cliattahoochee, Perdido, and Cahawba. The southern part of the country, which borders on the Gulf of Mexico and West Florida, for the space of fifty miles wide, is low and level, covered with pine, cypress, &c. ; in the middle it is hilly, with some tracts of open land ; the northern part is somewhat broken and mountainous, and the country generally is more elevated above the sea, than most other parts of the United States at equal distance from the ocean. The Alleghany Moun- tains terminate in the north-east part. The forest- trees, in the middle and north east part consist of black and white oak, hickory, poplar, cedar, ches- nut, pine, mulberry, F AMI-RICA. Mexico ; the Black Hills, between the Missouri and Yellow-stone Rivers ; and between the former river and the St. Peter's River a low ridge inter- venes, known as the Coteau des Prairies ; further to the eastward, and immediately south of the Lake Superior, the Porcupine Mountains extend, separating the rivers of Lake Superior from those of the Mississippi and Lake Michigan. The immense prairies of this region constitute the most remarkable feature of the country. These are level plains stretching as far as the eye can reach, totally destitute of trees, and covered with tall grass or flowering shrubs. Some have an unduiatory surface, and are called roaring prairies ; these are the most extensive, and are the favourite resort of the buffalo. Here, without a tree or a stream of water, the traveller may wander for days, and discover nothing but a grassy ocean bounded on* all sides by the horizon. In the dry season the Indians set fire to the grass ; and the wide conflagration which ensues, often surprises the bison, deer, and other wild animals, who are unable to escape from the flames, and are burned to death. Much of this great country, especially the northern and western parts, remains to be ex- plored. Of the region of the west of the Mis- sissippi, hardly any thing was known before the beginning of the present century, when the govern- ment of the United States despatched Captains Lewis arid Clark on an expedition of discovery. These officers, at the head of a large party well equipped, proceeded up the Missouri in boats to its source, crossed the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and returned by the same course. The southern part was explored by an expedition under Lieutenant Pike ; and at a later period, WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. k 309 Major Long and other travellers have visited dif- ferent parts of the country. But the great physical features of this region are its giant rivers, with their hundred arms spreading for thousands of miles through every corner of the territory, and bringing its most re- mote recesses, in the very heart of a vast conti- nent, almost into contact with the sea. The main trunk of this great system of rivers has already heen described. The Ohio on the east, and the Arkansas, Red River, and Platte on the west, are the greatest of the subordinate streams. The first, gathering up the waters of one of the most fertile regions of the globe, bears upon its gentle current the products of a highly cultivated country. The last mentioned take their way for a considerable part of their course through barren tracts of sand. The Arkansas, however, has vast tracts of produc- tive territory for many hundred miles ki the lower part of its course. The Red River also passes through a less desert region than the Platte, the country in its lower part being highly fertile. The Alleghany and Monongahcla, rising in Penn- sylvania and Virginia, unite at Pittsburgh, and take the name of Ohio. From Pittsburgh to the Mississippi, the river has a course of 950 miles, receiving numerous navigable streams, from the two great inclined planes between which it runs. " The great rivers," says a modern writer, " which form so striking a natural feature of this region, give to the mode of travelling and trans- portation in general, a peculiar east, and have created a peculiar class of men called boatmtn. Craft of all descriptions are found on these waters. There are the rude, shapeless masses, that denote the infancy of navigation, and the powerful and 310 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. richly adorned steamboat which makes its perfec- tion ; together with all the intermediate forms between the extremes. Since the use of steam- boats, numbers of the other craft have disappeared, and the number of the river boatmen has been diminished by many thousands/' The first steam- boat on the waters was built at Pittsburgh, in 1811 ; since that time upwards of 1,000 have been built at different places, some of which are above 500 tons burthen, but the greater tmmber are from ninety to 150, 200, and 300 tons; there are at present at least 400 steamboats plying on the Mis - sissippi and its tributaries, making an aggregate of about 80,000 tons. Lead, iron, coal, salt, and lime abound in the Western States; and probably no region in the world exhibits such a combination of mineral wealth and fertility of soil, united with siu-h rare facilities of transportation. Tobacco, Indian corn, hemp, cotton, salted provisions, flour, hides and furs, coarse bagging, and lead, are the most im- portant articles of export ; and all sorts of manu- factured goods and colonial produce are also im ported. The character of the Western States is mixed, but the predominant traits are those of Virginia and New England. Kentucky was settled from Virginia and North Carolina ; while Ohio is a scion of New England. These two States have in turn sent their population farther west. But there is much sectional character, much of the openness and boldness of the men and their descendants who contested every inch of territory with savages, whose houses were garrisons, and who fought at the thresholds for their hearths and their altars. The population of the Western States and Terri- WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. 311 tories in 1830 was 3,015,672; of whom 336,473 \vere slaves. Since that period, however, the in- habitants of this section have greatly increased, and are probably not less than five millions. The negroes constitute a considerable part of the population. They are held as slaves iii all the States but Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. 3fany ludians stifl remain within the limits of the Western States. 312 STATE OF OHIO. THIS enterprising and populous State is bounded on the north by Lake Erie and Michigan Terri- tory ; east by Pennsylvania and Virginia ; south by the Ohio River, which separates it from West- ern Virginia and Kentucky ; and west by Indiana. Its length is 210 miles, and mean breadth 200, containing about 40,000 square miles. The Ohio River forms the boundary of this State, on the south-east and south, for near 500 miles. The rivers which flow into Lake Erie on the north are Maumee, Sandusky, Huron, Vermilion, Black, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula ; those on the south flowing into the Ohio, are the Muskingum, Hockhocking, Little and Great Miami. The Au- Glaize and St. Mary's, in the western part of the State, are branches of the Maumee. The interior and northern parts of the country, bordering on Lake Erie, are generally level, and in some places marshy. Nearly one-third of the eastern and south-eastern part is very hilly and broken. The hills are exceedingly numerous, but few of them rise into considerable mountains. Im- mediately upon the banks of the Ohio, and several of its tributaries, are numerous tracts of interval or meadow -land, of great fertility. In the interior, STATE OF OHIO. 3l3 on both sides of the Scioto and on the Gfeat and Little Miami, are perhaps the most extensive bodies of level and rich land in the State. In many parts there are extensive prairies, particularly on the head waters of the Muskingum and Scioto, and between the Scioto and the two Miamies. Some of these prairies are low and marshy ; other prairies are elevated, and are frequently called barrens ; not always on account of their sterility, for they are often fertile. The most elevated tracts of country between the rivers, are the wettest and most ma'rshy in the State ; and the driest land is that which borders on the various streams of water. u There is probably nowhere in the world," says an eminent author, " a body of land of the same extent of which a greater proportion is sus- ceptible of cultivation. 'It may be considered a surface of table or high flat land sloping in one direction towards the Ohio, and in the other towards Lake Erie. The northern belt has great tracts of wet and dry marshy soil. They are, however, excellent, and in positions that render them easy to be drained. They are covered with forests, and when cleared and drained, will not make the least valuable part of the State. There are extensive bodies of land heavily timbered, in a state of nature, which are as level as prairies. The most fertile part of the State is between the two Miamies. On the upper courses of these rivers, and on the Muskingum and Scioto Rivers, are rich and extensive prairies, a great proportion of which is susceptible of cultivation. On the whole wide surface of the State there is scarcely any land so hilly, sterile, or marshy, as, with moderate labour, may not be subdued and cultivated. The whole region seems to have invited a hardy and p 314 ILNITED STATES OF AMERICA. numerous body of freeholders to select themselves moderate and nearly equal-sized farms, arid to in- tersperse them over the surface. There are vast tracts of the country of an alluvial nature, and therefore of a rich quality. The soil generally is very productive. To be able to judge of the extent and power of vegetation, one must reside in the State through the summer, and observe with what luxuriance and rapidity the vegetable creation is pushed on ; how rapidly the vines, grain, and fruit grow ; and what a depth of ver- dure the forests assume. Indiana corn is the staple of the grains, and is nowhere raited more easily, or in greater abundance. On rich alluvial 110 bushels have been produced from an acre, though fifty may be considered an average crop. Melons, squashes, pumpkins, potatoes, and all kinds of kitchen vegetables are raised in great perfection. Apples, and most kinds of fruits, as peaches, cherries, gooseberries, and grapes, can be produced in abundance. From the fulness and richness of the clusters of cultivated grapes, it is clear that this ought to be a country of vineyards. The gardens are among the finest in America ; but agricultural improvement seems to proceed but slowly. The State of Ohio lies between the 38th and 41st deg. of north latitude, and its climate corresponds to this general situation, except when modified by local peculiarities. The climate along the immediate valley of the Ohio is more equable and temperate than in the middle and table lands of the State. The mean temperature generally is found to be 53 deg. of the thermometer. The prevalent and warm winds are those that blow up the valley of the Mississippi. The northern breezes come charged with the cold of Canada and the lakes. STATE OP OHIO. 315 This State produces abundantly every thing which grows in the Middle States. Corn grows luxu- riantly ; wheat grows finely ; and flour is exported in vast quantities by the Ohio and Lake Erie to southern and eastern markets. Many steam-mills have been erected, especially in the vicinity of the Ohio River, for the manufacturing of flour. Mills for the same purpose, propelled by water, are to be found in every part of the State. Rye, oats, buck- wheat, &c., are produced abundantly; and tobacco is raised to the amount of 30,000 hogs- heads annually. Horses, cattle, and hogs are here raised in great numbers and driven to an eastern market ; and thousands of barrels of beef and pork are boated from all the towns on the navigable streams, for the southern part of the valley or to New York. Coal is found in great quantities in the eastern parts. Iron ore has been discovered and wrought pretty extensively in several places, particularly on the south of Licking River, four miles west of Jamesville, on Brush Creek, and in some other places. Salt springs are found on some of the eastern waters of Muskingum, and on Salt Creek, 28 miles south-east from Chillicothe, where there are cousiderable salt woiks. The manufactures of the State are yet in their infancy, but are rapidly increasing in importance. The local position of Ohio gives it great facilities for trade, which we doubt not will be rapidly taken advantage of; the Ohio river affords direct communication with all the country in the valley of the Mississippi, while by means of Lake Erie on the north, it communicates with Canada and New York. The northern and eastern counties export great quantities of agricultural produce to Montreal and New York, and since the construction of the 316 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Ohio and Pennsylvania canals, many of the pro- ductions of the southern and western counties also find their way to New York and Philadelphia; an active export trade is also carried on down the river by way of New Orleans. In addition to the funds arising from the sale of school lands appropriated by Congress, a State- tax is levied to aid in the support of common schools ; each township is divided into school districts, and those districts which support a school for three months in the year, are entitled to receive their quota of the State's money. There are about twenty respectable acadamies in the State. The Univer- sity of Ohio, at Athens ; Miami University at Oxford ; Kenyon College at Gambier, with a the- ological department ; Western Reserve College, at Hudson, with a theological department; Marietta College, at Marietta ; Willoughby University, at Chagrin ; Franklin College, at New Athens ; GFan- ville College, at Granville, with a theological de- partment ; and Oberlin Institute, at New Elyria, are the principal educational institutions ; besides these, there are several seminaries devoted to pro- fessional studies. The Presbyterians, Baptists, and Methodists, are the predominant religious sects; but the Episcopalians, German Reformers, Luther- ans, and Quakers, are also numerous ; and there are some Roman Catholics, Universalists, Shakers, and New Jerusalemites. The public works which have been executed, are of a magnitude calculated to strike us with surprise, when we consider tbe comparatively in- fant character of the State. Two great works, crossing the State from north to south, connect the waters of the Ohio with those of the great lakes, and through them with the Atlantic Ocean. The Ohio Canal extends from Portsmouth at the STATE OF OHIO. 317 mouth of the Scioto, up the valley of that river, ninety miles, thence across the intermediate district to the Muskingum, and by that river and the Cuyahoga to Lake Erie, a distance of 310 miles, with navigable feeders of 24 miles. The Miami Canal, extending from Cincinnati up the Miami and down the Au-Glaize to the Wabash and Erie Canal, extending from Perrysburg on the Maurnee, to the Indiana State line, whence it is continued to the Wabash ; the section within Ohio is eighty miles in length. These works are executed by the State. The Mahaning, or Pennsylvania and Ohio Canal, eighty-fi ve miles ; and the Sandy and Beaver Canal, eighty-seven miles have been constructed by private individuals. The Mad River Railroad ex- tends from Dayton at the mouth of Mad River, to Sandusky Bay, 153 miles. The Cumberland, or National Railroad is continued from Wheeling across this State through Zanesville, Columbus, and Springfield, to the Indiana line. The rapid growth of the population has seldom if ever been paralleled. In fifty-two years from the time when it received its first white settlers, the number of its inhabitants was 1,294,372. Its fertile and unoccupied lands attracted immigrants, not only from the other States, chiefly the eastern and middle, but large bodies of Swiss and Ger- mans, and great numbers of British emigrants have settled themselves in its smiling valleys and rich plains. The population of this State in 1790 was only 3,000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; in 1820, 581,434 : in 1840, 1,294,372 ; and may now (1852) be computed at 1,650,000. The city of Cincinnati, the principal town in the State, and the largest city in the west, is situated on the first and second banks of the Ohio river. 318 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. The streets are drawn with great regularity in lines parallel, and at right angles to, the river. Seven of these streets are 66 feet wide, and 396 feet apart, intersected by streets of the same width. There are here upwards of thirty churches, an hospital, a lunatic asylum, two theatres, &c., and the free schools of the city are numerous and well conducted. The growth of Cincinnati has been astonishingly rapid; it was founded in 1789, and in 1800 it had 750 inhabitants ; in 1830 the num- ber had increased to 24,831 ; and it is not too much much to say that they now exceed 80,000. It has become the seat of extensive manufactures, and it carries on an active trade by the river and canal. Brass and iron foundries, cotton mills, rolling and slitting mills, saw and flour mills, chemical laboratories, &c., are among the manufacturing establishments. The value of manufactured articles is estimated at six million dollars annually. About 3000 steamboats arrive here yearly ; and the an- nual value of the exports has been computed at 7,500,000 dollars. Beef, pork, wheat and flour, whiskey, with various manufactured articles are among the exports. Printing and publishing is carried on here to a great extent ; as is the case, in almost every town of any importance throughout the United States. Three daily, two twice a week, and six weekly newspapers appear here regularly, besides periodicals of various descrip- tions. No town of its size in the United States pro- duces a more respectable show of all the different classes of mechanics, arranged under their respec- tive standards, on the 4th of July, the anniversary of American Independence. Columbus, the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated on the Scioto, in a rich and beautiful dis~ STATE OF OHIO. 310 trict, at the intersection of the river by the national road, and a branch of the Ohio canal. It is built on a regular plan, with a pretty square in the centre of the town, round which stand some of the principal buildings. Here are the State-house, an Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, a Penitentiary conducted on the Auburn plan, Court-houses, several churches, and population exceeding 9,000. Chillicothe stands between Paint Creek and the Scioto, and the streets extending across the neck from river to river, are intersected at right angles by others running parallel to the Scioto, Popula- tion 8,500. The manufactures of the place are rapidly increasing. Portsmouth, at the southern end of the Ohio Canal, derives its importance from its situation ; its trade is considerable, and there are here several iron founderies, nail factories, saw and grist mills, &c. Population 4,000. Zanesville stands at the head of steamboat navi- gation on the Muskingum, by which and the Ohio Canal, it has a water communication with New Orleans and New York. The falls in the river have made Zanesville the seat of numerous mills and manufacturing establishments, including flour- mills, saw-mills, paper-mills, iron-foundries, cot- ton-mills, glass- works, out 260, and breadth 140 miles; area, 36,000 square milts. The Ohio flows along the southern extremity of this State for upwards of 350 miles, estimated by the course of the stream. The principal river, be- sides the Ohio, is the Wabash, with its numerous branches, of which the most important are the Salamanic and the Mississinewa, both entering on its southern side in the upper part of its course ; from the north it receives the Little, the Eel, and Tippecanoe Rivers ; and from the east, the White and Patoka Rivers. The White River is a valu- able channel for trade, as it drains the central part of the State, and has several large confluents, of which its east and west forks are the principal. In the. north-west part of the State are the Kanka- kee and Iroquois, both head waters of the Illinois River; in the north and north-eat are the Rivers St. Joseph of Lake Michigan and the St. Joseph of Macemee; the former falls into Lake Michigan, 332 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, and the latter, uniting with the St. Mary's River at Fort May tie, forms the Maurnee, which flows in a north-easterly direction into Lake Erie. The streams in the southern part of the State are the White Water, a tributary of the Miami River, and Langhery, Indian, and Anderson's Creeks ; also Big and Little Blue Rivers, and Great and Little Pigeon Creeks, all of which flow into the Ohio River. There are no mountains in Indiana ; the country, however, is more hilly than the territory of Illinois, particularly towards Ohio River. A range of hills, called the Knobs, extends from the Falls of the Ohio to the Wabash, in a south-west direction, which in many places produce a broken and uneven surface. North of these hills lie the Flat Woods, seventy miles wide. Bordering on all the princi- pal streams, except the Ohio, there are strips of bottom and prairie land, both together from three to six miles in width. Between the Wabash and Lake Michigan, the country is mostly champaign, abounding alternately with woodlands, prairies, lakes, and swamps. A range of hills run parallel with the Ohio from the mouth of the Great Miami to Blue River, alternately approaching to within a few rods and receding to the distance of two miles. Immediately below Blue River, the hills disappear, and there is presented to view an immense tract of level land, covered with a heavy growth of timber. The agricultural exports are beef, pork, cattle, horses, swine, Indian corn, hemp, tobacco, &c. Ginseng, bees' wax, feathers, and whiskey are also exported in considerabie quantities, but we have no means of estimating the value of the trade. There are some grist and saw mill*, a few iron furnaces, STATE OF INDIANA. 333 and some salt work?, but the manufacturing in- dustry is inconsiderable. The mineral resources of Indiana have been little attended to, and our knowledge of some of them is but imperfect. Coal, iron, lime, salt, &c., are how- ever known to abound. The Wabash and Erie Canal, from Lafayette to Perrysburg in Ohio, lies chiefly in this State, the distance from Lafayette to the Ohio line being 130 miles. This great work is continued to Terre Haute, 90 miles, and thence to the Central Canal, 40 miles. There is also the White River Canal, from the Wabash and Erie Canal, to Evansville on the Ohio, 290 miles; the White Water Canal, extending through Connersville to Lawrenceburg on the Ohio, 76 miles. The Madison and Lafayette Railroad, from the Ohio to the Wabash, 160 miles. The National Road also passes from the Ohio line through Indianopolis. The current of immigration has flowed steadily into Indiana during the last thirty years, and its population has accordingly increased with great rapidity. Most of the inhabitants are from Ohio and the Middle and Northern States ; but there are many immigrants from Kentucky and Virginia as well as from Great Britain and other foreign countries. The same provision has been made by Congress for the support of common schools that has been made in the other new States, but no efficient sys- tem of general education has yet been adopted. The constitution makes it " the duty of the general assembly, as soon as circumstances shall permit, to provide by law for a general system of education, ascending in a regular gradation, from township schools to a state university, wherein tuition shall be gratis, and equally open to all." Indiana Col- 334 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. lege at Bloomington, South Hanover College at South Hanover, and Wabash College at Crawfords- ville, are valuable and highly respectable institu- tions. Academies have been established in several of the counties. The Methodists and Baptists are the prevailing religious ects. The Presbyterians and Quakers are also numerous ; and there are some Episcopalians, Roman Catholics, Lutherans, Shakers, &c. The State of Indiana is divided into eighty-five counties. The population in 1820 was 147,178 ; in 1830, 341,582; in 1840, 535,986; and may now be estimated at 650,000. Indianapolis, the capital of the State, stands on a fine plain near the White River, and is laid out with much taste and regularity. The spacious streets are lined with neat houses, and the public buildings are handsome structures. There are Presbyterian, Baptist, and Methodist Churches, a State House, Court House, Governor's House, &c. The population is about 3,500. Lawrenceburg, on the Ohio, just below the mouth of the White Water, carries on an extensive trade, but its site is so low that it is subject to inundation during very high stages of the water. Madison is a flourishing town, pleasantly situated sixty miles below Lawrenceburg, with about 4,000 iohabitants. Vevay is a little village, settled by a Swiss colony, with about 2,000 inhabitants. Jef- fersonville, opposite Louisville, is a thriving town and contains the State Prison. New Albany, be- low the Falls of the Ohio, is the largest town in this State, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants. New Harmony, on the Wabash, was founded by the German sect called Harmonites, under the direction of Rapp. In 1824 it was purchased by the celebrated William Owen, of New Lanark, in STATE OF INDIANA. 335 Scotland, who attempted to put in operation here his new social system. The scheme failed, how- ever, and his followers were dispersed ; but the village is now a flourishing place in other hands. Vincennes, higher up the river, is an old French settlement, formed in the beginning of -last century. Population about 3,000. The city of Michigan is founded on the lake of that name, but there is no good harbour within this State, and the navigation is dangerous on account of the exposure to the winds and surf. The whole shore of the lake is lined by lofty, bare sand-hills, rising to the height of two hundred feet, with a breadth of upwards of a mile, in the rear of which is a belt of sandy hills covered with white oak and pine. 336 STATE OF ILLINOIS. THIS fertile and improving State is bounded north by Wisconsin Territory, east by Michigan and Indiana, south by Kentucky, and west by the State of Missouri and Wisconsin Territory. Its medium length is about 350 miles, and medium breadth about 170; the area being about 69,500 square miles. The Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash, form about two-thirds of the whole boundary of this State. The other most considerable rivers are the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Muddy Saline, Little Wabash, Mac- kinaw, Crow- Meadow, Rainy, Vermilion, Spoon, Rock, Sangamon, Embarras, Fox, Des Plaines, &c. The southern and middle parts of the State are for the most part level. The north-western sec- tion is a hilly broken country, though there are no high . mountains. The climate resembles that of Indiana, and Ohio. The soil is generally fertile, and yields abundant harvests. Maize is the staple production of the State, and the average produce is 50 bushels to the acre. Wheat is also raised in large quantities, and yields flour of superior quality ; rye is much used for dis- tillation. Hemp, tobacco, and cotton, which is mostly consumed in household manufactures, but STATE OF ILLINOIS. 337 is also exported, the castor-oil bean, from which large quantities of oil are made for exportation, and the common grains are also among the ptoducts. Large herds of cattle are kept with little trouble, and great numbers are driven out of the State, or sent down the river in flat-boats. Thousands of hogs are raised with little attention or expense, and pork is largely exported. Coal, salt, lime, iron, lead, and copper, are among the mineral productions of Illinois, but its bosom has not yet been fully explored for its hid- den treasures. Coal is very abundant in many quarters, and is extensively worked. Lead is found in the north-western corner of the State in exhaustless quantities ; the lead diggings extend from the Wisconsin to the neighbourhood of Rock River, and on both sides of the Mississippi. The Indians and French had long been accustomed to procure the ore, but it was not until 1822, that the process of separating the metal was begun to be carried on here. Upwards of thirteen million pounds have been smelted in one year; but the business having been overdone, the product has dwindled away, till now it does not exceed two or three thousand pounds. Some salt is made n^r Shawneetown, near Danville, on the Little Ver- milion, and near Brown ville, on Muddy Creek. The springs belong to the State, and are leased to the manufacturers. The same provision has been made by Congress for the support of public schools in this, as in the other new States, by the appropriation of certain proportions of the public land to this purpose. But the scattered state of the population has as yet prevented a general system of public education from being carried into operation. There are several respectable academies in the State, and 038 UiXITED STATES OF AMERICA. Illinois College at Jacksonville, Shurtleff Col- lege at Alton, and the Alton Theological Seminary, at the same place, promise to be useful institutions. The Baptists and Methodists are the most nume^ rous religious sects, but there are many Presby- terians, Roman Catholics, &c. There are several important public works in this State, amongst which we may mention, the Illinois and Chicago Canal, extending from Chicago on Lake Michigan, to a point below the Rapids of Illinois, a . distance of 100 miles, forming the fourth navigable channel from the Mississippi valley to the great lakes. The most extensive rail- road extends from Galena, in the lead mine region to the mouth of the Ohio ; it traverses the whole length of Illinois from north to south, and exceeds 400 miles in length. Another extends from Peoria, on the Illinois River, to a point on the Wabash, which connects the two rivers ; there is also a railroad from Mount Carmel on the Wabash, to Alton on the Mississippi; besides several of minor importance. The population of Illinois has increased with the same amazing rapidity as that of the neighbouring States. The constitution provides that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall hereafter be introduced into the State, otherwise than for the punishment of crimes ; and as negroes coming into the State are required to give bonds with security that they will not become chargeable as paupers, there are comparatively few blacks. The population which in 1820, was 55,211 ; in 1830, 157,57s; in 1840, 259,939; may now be estimated at 360,000. The most thriving town in Illinois, and the most thriving town in the State, is Chicago, on Lake Michigan, at the mouth of a small river of O 7 STATE OF ILLINOIS. 339 the same name. The canal from this place to the Illinois River, brings a vast increase of trade to Chicago, and bids fair to render it one of the most important places in the Western States. The town is pleasantly situated on a high plain, on both sides of the river, which affords easy access to the centre of business. An artificial harbour has been made by the construction of piers, which, extending some distance into the lake, prevents the accumulation of sand on the bar. The country around is a high, dry, and fertile prairie, and on the north branch of the Chicago, and along the lake shore, are extensive bodies of fine timber. The town has grown up rapidly, and contains many churches, ba'hks, warehouses, several printing offices, academies, and nearly 20,000 inhabitants. Wandalia, the capital of the State, is a small town, situated on 'the route of the National Road, on the west bank of the Kaskaskia River, about 80 miles north-east of St. Louis. The buildings, public and private, are respectable, if we consider the short time that has elapsed since the site was a wilderness. The most commercial place in this State, on the Mississippi River, is Alton, situated on the bluffs at the northern termination of the American Bot- tom, two miles and a-half above the mouth of the Missouri, and eighteen above that of the Illinois. It is the western depot of the produce of Illinois. Possessing a fine commodious harbour, with an excellent landing for steamboats, formed by a level rock of a convenient height, which makes a natu- ral wharf, Altoa has become the centre of an active and daily growing trade. The population exceeds 5,000. There are here several churches, a Ly- ceum, three printing offices, and a Penitentiary ; and the picturesque site of the town is well set off 340 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. by neat houses, surrounded by tasteful piazzas and gay shrubbery. Upper Alton, in the rear of Alton, and about three miles distant, is the seat of Shurt- leff College and a theological seminary. Edwards-, ville, to the north of Alton, is a neat -and thriving village. Peoria is beautifully situated at the foot of the lake of that name, and on the Illinois River. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Ottowa, above the Rapids, and at the western termination of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, is also a prosperous village, with deep water and a good landing. Cahokia and Kaskaskia are old French villages on the American Bottom with not more than 1,000 or 1,200 inhabitants, most of 'whom are French. These and similar sites are found unhealthy for new settlers, but their occupants do not suffer in this respect. A celebrated author has said, " The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, and Cahokia, were built up by their industry whe^e Americans probably would have perished." This bottom is remarkable for the number and size of the mounds, which are scattered, " like gigantic hay-cocks," over its surface. Seventy of these may be counted on the Edwardsville Road, near Cahokia ; and the principal mound, which is sur- rounded by a group of sixteen or eighteen smaller ones, is niuety feet in height, with a base of 600 yards in circumference. Springfield, near the centre of the State, on the border of a beautiful prairie, and surrounded by one of the most fertile tracts in tbe world, and Jacksonville, farther west, in the midst of a beautiful undulating country, are busy flourishing towns containing nearly 4,000 inhabitants each. Bloomington, further south, is also a prosperous village. On the Mississippi, above the Illinois, Quincy STATE OP ILLINOIS. 341 and Rock River City, at the mouth of the river of that name, are favourably situated. On the rocky extremity of a little island, about three miles long and a mile and a half broad, at the mouth of Rock River, stands Fort Armstrong, a United States military post. Higher up, a few miles from the mouth of Fever River, which is navigable for steamboats to the town, is Galena, a prosperous town in the lead district, with about 2,500 inha- bitants. 342 STATE OF MICHIGAN. THE country to which the name of Michigan has been usually applied is a large peninsula, with its "base resting upon the States of Ohio and Indiana, and bounded on the east and north-east by Lake Huron for a distance of 250 miles, and having Lake Michigan for its western boundary, an extent of 260 miles. It is in length about 288, and in breadth at the widest part 190 miles; its area being 38,000 square miles. Michigan, however, comprises without her bounds another and entirely distinct peninsula, forming a part of the region nominally attached to her while under a territorial government, and added permanently to her territory on her admission as a member of the American confederacy. It is bounded on the north by Lake Superior, on the east by St. Mary's River, on the south by Lakes Huron and Michigan, and south-west by the Men- nomonie and Montreal Rivers ; the latter emptying into Lake Superior, and the former into Green Bay. It is in length, from east to west, about 820 miles, and in breadth it varies from 160 to 80 or 40 miles. The area is probably about 28,000 square miles, making the area of the whole State about 66,000 square miles. STATE OF MICHIGAN. 343 The northern peninsula is but little known, liaving been explored only by hunters and trappers. The surface is said to be more irregular than that of the southern section, and also much less suited for agricultural purposes ; but it will, nevertheless, doubtless become of importance on account of the large bodies of pine timber contained in various parts, and also from the valuable fisheries on the shores of Lake Superior, white fish being taken in treat abundance. The rivers are numerous and ow mostly into Lake Superior. They are gene- rally short in their length of course, and much broken by falls and rapids. The shores of the lake are mostly low, and but little indented by bays and harbours ; and as the prevailing winds are from the north-west, and sweep with great fury over the wide unsheltered expanse of the lake, navigation -is more stormy And dangerous than along the Canada shore. The Pictured Rocks, so named from their pic- turesqtie appearance, are a remarkable natural curiosity. They form a perpendicular wall, ex- tending near twelve miles, and are 300 feet high, presenting a great variety of romantic projections and indentations, having the appearance of land- scapes, buildings, and various objects delineated by the hand of man. Among the features that attract particular admiration are the cascade La Portaille and the Doric Arch. The cascade consists of a considerable stream precipitated from the height of about seventy feet, by a single leap into the Jake. It is thrown to such a distance that a boat may pass dry between it and the rocks. The Doric Rock, or Arch, has the appearance of a work of art, consisting of an isolated mass of sandstone, with four pillars supporting a stratum or entabla- ture of stone, covered with soil, and giving support 344 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. to a handsome growth of spruce and pine trees, gome of which are fifty or sixty feet high. The native inhabitants of this region are some bands of the Chippeways on the shores of Lake Superior, and Mennomonies on Green Bay, the whole num- ber not exceeding 1,500. The only settlement in t'lis region is the village of St. Mary's, at Fort Brady on the St. Mary's River. It contains a population of about 1,200, principally half-breeds and French. St. Mary's River, the outlet of the waters of Lake Superior, is about fifty miles in length, with a fall of twenty-two feet in half a mile, which prevents large vessels from entering Lake Superior, although canoes and boats of small draught ascend and descend the rapids. An act, however, passed the legislature of Michigan, autho- rizing a ship canal round these rapids, which cer- tainly must have a beneficial effect. The southern peninsula, or Michigan Proper, is generally a level country, having no elevation that can properly be called hills ; the centre of the peninsula, being a table land, elevated, however, but a few feet above the level of the lakes. Along the shore of Lake Huron there are, in places, high bluffs; along the east shore of Lake Michigan are immense hills of pure sand, of from fifty to several hundred feet in height, which have been blown up by the almost constant western winds sweeping over the lake and the sandy margin on its eastern side. The peninsula abounds in rivers : none of these have much extent of course, and but few of them are navigable to any considerable distance inland. Grand River is the largest; it empties into Lake Michigan ; its whole course is about 150 miles, and it is navigable fifty miles, from the lake to the rapids, for sloops and steamboats, and above that STATE OF MICHIGAN. 345 point there is sufficient depth of water for boats fifty miles farther. The St. Joseph's River is a considerable stream, and empties into Lake Michi- gan, at the south-west angle of the territory. It is, like Grand River, navigable for large sloops to the rapids, and above them has a still farther extent of boat navigation. It flows through a very fertile region, variegated by prairies and high forests; the country on the river is not surpassed, in point of beauty and fertility, by any in the United States. Several towns and villages have been settled on this river, which promise to become flourishing and prosperous places. The other considerable streams which flow into Lake Michigan are the Kalamazoo, Grand, Maskegon, Pent water, Manistic, and Aux Betises. Those which flow into Lake Erie are the Raisin and Huron Rivers. The Clinton is the only considerable river which falls into Lake St. Clair. The Saginaw, a considerable and important river, running northward, falls into Saginaw Bay, which is a part of Lake Huron. Many other, but smaller streams, fall into the same lake, such as the Thunder Bay, Sandy, Aux Carpe, and Cheboeigon Rivers. The eastern part of this territory, from various circumstances, became first settled. Within the last twenty years a great mass of emigrants from all quarters have spread themselves over this fine and fertile country. Situated as it is, between the east, the north, and the west, with greater facilities for extensive inland water communication than almost any other country on the globe, with a fer- tile soil, of which millions of acres are fit for the plough, with a healthful climate, and with a con- currence of circumstances, inviting northern popu- lation, the inhabitants are rapidly increasing, and wealth accumulates with a celerity that may vie with any of the neighbouring States. Q 2 346 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. Wheat, Indian corn, oats, barley, buck-wheat, potatoes, turnips, peas, apples, pears, plums, cherries, and peaches, are raised easily and abun- dantly. It is a country more favourable to culti- vated grasses than the western country ; in short, it is peculiarly fitted for northern farmers. No inland country, according to its age, population, and circumstances, has a greater trade. A number of steamboats and lake vessels are constantly plying in. this trade, which is with Detroit, Chicago, and Ohio. The climate of this region, in consequence of its being level and peninsular, and surrounded on all sides, but the south, with such immense bodies of water, is more temperate and mild than could be expected from its latitude. The southern parts have mild winters, and the spring opens as early as in any part of the United States in the same latitude : the position of the northern parts must subject it to a Canadian temperature. The winter commences here early in November, and does not terminate until the end of March. The legislative power is vested in a Senate and House of Representatives, styled the Legislature. The former are chosen for the term of two years, and the latter annually. The governor and lieute- nant-governor are chosen by the people, and h&ld office for the term of two years. The judges are appointed by the governor, with the consent of the Senate, the term of office being seven years. Suf- frage is universal. The constitution provides that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall ever be introduced into the State, except for the punish- ment of crimes. It is also a provision of the con- stitution, that the legislature shall encourage by all suitable means the promotion of intellectual, scien- tific, and agricultural improvement ; shall provide STATE OF MICHIGAN. 47 for a system of common schools, by which a school shall be kept up and supported in each school dis- trict at least three months in every year ; and, as soon as the circumstances of the State will permit, shall provide for the establishment of libraries, one at least in each township. The Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists are the predominant reli- gious sects. The state is divided into thirty eight counties. In 1810, the population amounted to 4,762 ; in 1820, 8,896; in 1830, 28,004; in 1840, 93,275; and may now be estimated at 125,000. The city of Detroit, the principal place in Michi- gan, is situated on a rising plain on the western shore of Detroit River, which unites Lakes Erie and St. Clair. Few places can be more admirably situated for a commercial city, and few have a more solid promise of permanent prosperity. The city is regularly laid out and neatly built, and during the last twenty years its business and popu* lation have increased commensurately with the growth of the fertile country in its rear. In 1830, the number of the inhabitants was 2,222 ; in 1840, 18,537; and may now be estimated at 30,000. The public buildings are several churches, of which the largest and most striking is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a State House, Academy, and County Buildings. Detroit is the depot of all the country on the upper lakes, and there are about twenty large steamboats plying between the port and Chi- cago and Buffalo. Among the many small towns which have eprung up in Michigan are Palmer on the St. Clair River ; Anne Arbour on the Huron, with about 2,000 inhabitants; also Adrian and Monroe, on the River Raisin. The latter is about two miles 348 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. from the mouth of the river, and is accessible to steamboats. It contains several grist and saw mills, a woollen manufactory, an iron foundry, a printing office, &c. The rivers afford a number of mill- seats, with a plentiful supply of water. Population about 4,000. At the head of St. Glair River, at the mouth of Lake Huron, on a commanding posi- tion, stands Forfe Gratiot, a United States military post. 319 STATE OF MISSOURI. THIS State is bounded north by Wisconsin Terri tory ; west, by the Western or Indian Territory ; east, by the Mississippi River, which separates it from Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee ; and south, by the State of Arkansas. Its length is about 280 miles, and medium breadth 230 ; the area being about 65,000 square miles. The Mississippi River runs 460 miles along the eastern border of the State ; whilst the Missouri, flowing for 200 miles along the western boundary, and through its centre for 350 miles, enters the former stream a short distance above St. Louis. The wstern line of this State, south of the Missouri River, is the meridian which passes through the point of junc- tion of the Kansas and the Missouri Rivers. Besides the great rivers Mississippi and Missouri, this State is watered by various others of consi- derable magnitude. The largest are the Osage, Grand, Salt, Charitone, Gasconade, Morrimac or Maramac, Big Black, and St. Francis. The Osage is a large river navigable for boat* 660 miles. Much of the surface in the central portion of the section south of the Missouri in mountainous, or rather hilly, being traversed in different directions by the chains of the Ozark Mountains, one of 350 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. which, under the name of the Iron Mountain, divides the waters of the St. Francis and White Itivers from those of the Maramac and Gasconade, and another forms the water- shed between the Gasconade and Osage; but these ridges are not very lofty. Between the Osage and Missouri, and north of the latter, the country is undulating and agreeably diversified, while in the south-east, be- tween the Big Black River and the .Mississippi, the whole tract, with the exception of a narrow strip on the border of the latter, is a low inundated morass, forming a portion of the great swamp of which the principal part is in the State of Arkansas. The lands bordering on the Missouri are exceed- ingly rich. They consist of a stratum of black alluvial soil, of unknown depth. As you recede from the banks of the rivers, the land rises, passing sometimes gradually, and sometimes abruptly, into elevated barrens, flinty ridges, and rocky cliffs. A portion of the State is, therefore, unfit for culti- yation ; but this part of it, however, is rich in mineral treasures. The land is either very fertile or very poor; it is either bottom land or cliff; either prairie or barren : there is very little of an intermediate quality. The climate is remarkably serene and temperate, and very favourable to health. Missouri is admirably adapted for a grazing country, and vast herds of cattle, horses, and swine are raised. The prairies are excellent natural pas- tures. "'The business of rearing cattle," says a modern writer, " is almost reduced to the simple operation of turning them out upon these prairies, and letting them fatten until the owners think proper to claim the tribute of their flesh." Beef, pork, tallow, hides, and live stock constitute im- STATE OF MISSOURI. 3.51 portant articles of export. Cotton is raised in the southern part of the State, but not in considerable quantities. Tobacco is more extensively grown ; and hemp, wheat, Indian corn, and the other cereal grains are cultivated with success. Maize, flour, lead, furs, buffalo skins and tongues, and lumber constitute, with the articles before mentioned, the exports of Missouri. The most remarkable feature in Missouri is its lead mines, which are estimated to cover an area of about 3,000 square miles. The centre of the lead mine district is about seventy miles west from St. Louis, and the principal diggings are included in an extent of thirty miles in one direction by fifteen in another. The lead ore is found in de- tached masses, and not in veins. The business of mining is consequently very uncertain. The ore is of that species called galena, and yields from seventy-five to eighty per cent. About 3,000,000 pounds of lead are annually made, giving employ- ment to about 1,200 hands. In this region are likewise found copper, zinc, manganese, calamine, cobalt, &c. These lead mines were wrought by the French more than one hundred years ago. Iron is found in inexhaustible quantities, and is extensively wrought. Coal also abounds, particu- larly along the Missouri, and aluminous and nitrous earth, marble, salt-springs, sulphuretted and ther- mal waters, &c., occur. Thjere are three colleges in the State. St. Louis University in St. Louis, and St. Mary's College at Perryville are both Roman Catholic institutions, and Marion College at Palmyra. The Baptists and Methodists are the most numerous religious sects. The Presbyterians and Roman Catholics are also pretty numerous. Missouri is divided into fifty-two counties. The population, in 1820, was 66,586; in 1830, 352 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 140,455; in 1840, 211,401; and may now be estimated at 275,000, including 70,000 slaves. St. Louis is the commercial capital of Missouri, and the largest town west of the Mississippi. It is built on two banks. The first, not much raised above the level of the river, contains two narrow streets running parallel with its course, and the second or higher bank, which spreads out into a wide plain in the rear, comprises the rest of the city. The upper part is well laid out with spa- cious and regular streets. St. Louis was founded in 1764, but it continued to be an inconsiderable village while it remained in the hands of the Spanish and French. It is the emporium of the Upper Missouri and Mississippi, and must continue to increase rapidly as the vast regions to the north and west become occupied by industrious culti- vators. The lead mines in its vicinity, and the establishments connected with the Indian agencies, land offices, and army supplies, also create a good deal of business. The number of steamboat arri- vals is above 1,000 annually. The population is now chiefly composed of Americans, but there are many French, with some Germans and Spaniards. There are several Protestant churches and a Roman Catholic Cathedral. In the vicinity are Jefferson's Barracks and a United States Arsenal, extensive stone buildings, with accommodation for 800 men. Population, 20,000. St. Louis stands nearly in the centre of the Great Valley, on the right bank of the Mississippi, 17 miles below the mouth of the Missouri, 175 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, 1,350 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, and 850 from Washington. It has easy water communication with the country at the foot of the Rocky Moun- tains, 2,600 miles distant by the course of the river on one side, and with Quebec and New York, STATE OP MISSOURI. 353 1,800 to 2,000 miles, on the other ; and with New Orleans, 1,250 miles to the south, and Fort Snell- ing, 860 miles to the north. Jefferson city, on the south side of the Missouri River, and near the centre of the State, is the capital of Missouri. It contains the State House and a Penitentiary. Its site is not a fortunate selection, and in consequence it has not prospered. Higher up the stream are the villages of Franklin, Booneville, Keytesville, Lexington, and Liberty. This is the most western settlement in the United States in which a newspaper is published, being 1,142 miles from Washington city, and 324 west of St. Louis. Westport, at the mouth of the Kansas, is the most westerly village in the Union. 354 STATE OF ARKANSAS. ARKANSAS is bounded on the north by Missouri, east by the Mississippi River, which separates it from Tennessee and the State of Mississippi, south by Louisiana, and west by the Western or Indian Territory and the northern part of Texas. Its southern line is the 33rd degree of north latitude, and northern 36 degrees 30 minutes. Its length from north to south is 245 miles, and mean breadth about 212. Its area is 51,960 square miles. The principal river is the Arkansas, which flows down from the Rocky Mountains. Its course is nearly through the centre of the State from west to east ; and it affords at all times steamboat navi- gation to Little Rock, 300 miles from the Missis- sippi^ and occasionally to Cantonment Gibson, nearly 350 miles higher up. The other important streams are the Red River, (which flows through the south-west angle of the State) St. Francis, White, and Washita Rivers. Arkansas has considerable advantages for com- merce, nearly every part of it has a direct and easy communication with New Orleans, the great em- porium of trade for the whole Mississippi valley. The surface of the country exhibits much variety. In the eastern portion, along the Mississippi River, STATE OF ARKANSAS. 355 it is level, and often overflown by that noble river and its large confluents, which have their course through this territory. In the central part it is undulating and broken, and in the western section it is traversed by the Ozark Mountains, which are estimated to attain an altitude of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the ocean. The other considerable elevations are the Black Hills, north of the Arkan- sas, and the Washita Hills, or Massome Mountains, on the head waters of the Washita River. The soil is of all qualities, from the most productive to the most sterile ; much of it is of the latter descrip- tion. It has, however, a sufficient amount of ex- cellent land to enable it to become a rich and popu- lous State. The column of emigration has begun to move in this direction, and it has more than doubled its population within the last few years. Of the products of Arkansas, cotton is thejstaple ; corn and sweet potatees thrive well; wheat and other small grains have not been cultivated to a great extent ; peaches are remarkably fine ; apple* do not succeed, except on the elevated parts of the State, at a distance from the Mississippi. The wild fruits, grapes, plums, and Pottawatomies. 361 WESTERN; OR, INDIAN TERRITORY. THE Western or Indian Territory is the country assigned by the government of the United States for the future residence of the Indians. It is about 600 miles in extent from north to south in the eastern, and in the western part about 300 ; and from east to west beyond Arkansas, it is about 320 ; but, westward of the central and northern parts of Missouri, it is full 600 miles in breadth, it contains an area of about 240,000 square miles. A belt of about 200 miles of the most eastern part of this region, and adjoining the States of Arkansas and Missouri, is considered favourable for settlement ; the soil is affirmed to be generally very fertile, and it is watered by numerous rivers, creeks, and rivulets, none of which, however, are suitable for navigation. The chief streams are the Red, Arkansas, Kansas, and Platte Rivers, with their numerous tributaries ; they flow in an east- ern direction from the Rocky Mountains towards the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, of which they are all branches. The country in its general cha- racter is high and undulating, rather level than hilly ; Chough some portions, particularly in the south eastern parts, are entitled to the latter appel- lation, where it is traversed by several low ranges R 362 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. of the Ozark Mountains, here termed the Kia- meche Hills ; there is less marshy land and stagnant water than is usual in the Western Territory. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate precisely such as is desired ; being about the same as that inhabited by the Indians to the east of the Mississippi. It contains coals, some lead and iron ore, and many saline springs, suitable for manufac- turing salt. The most serious defect is a want of timber, but it is one which time will remedy, as has been demonstrated by the rapid growth of timber in prairie countries, which have been settled ; where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less de- structive to the growth of wood. The prairies are covered with grass, much of which is of suitable length for the scythe. This country will produce all the varieties of grain, vegetables, and agricultu- ral products, which are raised in the States of the same latitude, east of the Mississippi. It is also admirably adapted for the raising of domestic animals of every description. The population of the Western Territory amounts to about 120,000, upwards of two thirds of whom have emigrated from the States east of the Missis- sippi River. The remainder appertain to tribes long resident in the region. The indigenous tribes are, the Pawnees, Puncake, Omaha, Otoes and Missouries, Kansas, Quapaws, and Osages. The emigrant tribes are the Chippeways, Ottawas, Pottawatomies, Choctaws, Quapaws, Creeks, Semi- noles, Appalachicolas, Cherokees, Kickapoos, Dela- wares, Shawanees, Weas, Piankethaws, Peonias and Kaskaskasi and Senecas The Choctaws, Creeks, Cherokees, and Shawanees are the most advanced towards civilization of any of the Indian tribes in this quarter. They have WESTERN ; OK, INDIAN TERRITORY. 363 generally good houses, well fenced and well tilled fields, and own horses and cattle to a considerable extent ; they have also native mechanics and mer- chants among them, of whom some of the Chero- kees have from 5,000 to 15,000 dollars capital. They likewise carry on spinning and weaving, and have some saw and grist mills. The Choctaws also raise a considerable quantity of cotton. The Choctaws and Creeks have adopted an improved system of government, and have a written consti- tution ; the former have introduced the trial by jury. On the south bank of the Kansas, and adjoining the State of Missouri, are the Shawanees; they are among the most improved of the Indian tribes. The Methodists and Baptists have missions among them ; and at the Shawanee station, under the care of the latter, there is a printing press, from which have been issued school books, and collections of sacred poetry, in several Indian languages ; a monthly journal is also printed here in the Shawa- nee language. In the desert regions along the base of the Rocky Mountains, are roving tribes of Riccarees, Shiennees, Blackfeet, Grog Yentres, and Arepahas, who pur- sue the trail of the buffalo, and have had little in- tercourse with the whites. The great caravan road from Missouri to Santa Fe crosses the eastern part of this section, and there is a trader's fort near the head of the Arkansas. 304 MISSOURI TEBRITOBY. THIS territory is a vast wilderness, thinly inhabited only by different tribes of Indians, many of whom appear to have no fixed residence, but follow the migrations of the game from place to place. Mis- souri Territory extends from north to south about 520, and from east to west 600 miles, and contains an area of 300,000 square miles ; it is bounded on the north by the British possessions ; south, by the Western or Indian Territory ; east, by Wis- consin ; and west, by the territory of Oregon. The greater part of this region has been but partially explored, and is but perfectly known. It appears to consist of vast prairies, fringed along the lower courses of the rivers with patches of wood land. A great portion of it may be likened to the great steppes of Central Asia. There is, however, in the most sterile parts, a thin sward of grass and herbage ; countless droves of buffalos, elk, and deer, range upon tho vast prairies. This will, per- haps, at some future period, be replaced by herds of domestic cattle, and flocks of sheep, followed by moving bands of shepherds. To the west of these plains, the Eocky Moun- tains rise up in an abrupt manner, presenting a steep front, with numerous frowning rocky preci- MISSOURI TERRITORY. 355 pices, and having many summits covered with per- petual snow. The only elevation in the great plain, which stretches from the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains, is the Black Hill, a spar of the former range, extending to the north-west about 400 miles, and separating the eastern tributaries of the Yellow Stone from those that run westward into the Missouri ; the character and elevation of this ridge are unknown, but its height is believed to be moderate. The Missouri is the principal stream, which, with its tributaries, drains the whole of this region. The Yellow Stone is the largest of its upper tri- butaries, and is by some even considered the main stream ; it rises among the Rocky Mountains, in the south-west part of this section, and flowing a north-east course, enters the Missouri, upwards of 3,000 miles from the ocean. Those tributaries entering on the west side of the Missouri, are the Cannon-ball, Weterhoo, Shienne, Running Water, &c. Our knowledge of this country is mostly derived from those intrepid travellers, Lewis and Clark, who were sent to explore this region by the United States government. The Great Falls of the Missouri present a spec- tacle of uncommon grandeur. They consist of a succession of cataracts, the whole descent of which is 350 feet. In one instance the entire body of the river falls in a perpendicular sheet, to the depth of eighty -seven feet. The place where the Missouri passes from the mountains, called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains, displays a stupendous work of nature. The river is compressed to the width of 450 feet, between perpendicular rocks, 1200 feet in height ; for three miles there is but one spot where a kiian can ft ad footing between the water 366 UMTED STATES OF AMERICA.. and the mountainous precipices. About 100 miles below tbe Great Falls in tbe Missouri tbere are immense piles of rock, 300 feet in height, pre- senting the appearance of an artificial wall ; they are nearly perpendicular, and the beholder can dis- cern, amid the the various forms which they ex- hibit, the shapes of ruined castles, and other edifices. The principal aboriginal races are the Pawnees, the various tribes of Sioux, Ricarees, Mandans, Blackfoot Indians, &c. ; most of them appear to be nomadic in their habits, and being in possession of an ample store of horses, roam from place to place in quest of buffalo and other game. 367 OREGON TEBBHGBY. THE country, extending from the Rocky Moun- tains to the Pacific Ocean, and lying between 42 and 54 deg. 40 min. of north latitude, is gene- rally known by the name of the Oregon Territory, which was claimed both by the United States and Great Britain ; and a few years back this disputed territory was nearly involving the two nations in war ; but through negociations the dispute was amicably settled, and peace maintained. On the north and east, as far south as the 49th degree, Oregon is bounded by the southern part of the British possessions, and southward of that degree, by the Missouri Territory ; south, by the Republic of Mexico ; and west, by the Pacific Ocean. It is in length about 880 miles, with an average breadth of 350 ; area, about 450,000 square miles. The surface of the country, so far as it is known, is broken and mountainous; it is traversed on its eastern boundary by the vast ridges of the Rocky Mountains, many of the elevated parts of which rise above the limits of perpetual congelation. Westward of the mountains the country descends by regular slopes, in form of immense terraces or descending plains, disposed regularly one below the 368 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. other. At the distance of from 120 to 160 miles from the Pacific, and nearly parallel with the coast, a range of mountains extend, which have not as yet received any general designation ; the highest peaks have been named Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Mount St. Helen's, o t: II 3| 3 "5 Dollars. 10,931,382 845,810 7,793,962 4,0945,730 11,261,970 252,255 1,709,867 965,880 371,600 2,867,886 94,245 14,6-6,671 443,347 14,869,889 8,973,888 108,100 46,025 690,065 ft & 2 l| 1 Dollars. I,V44 1,041 4,763 12,644 7,919 698 2,395 2,953 11,987 2,383 856 1,174 1,339 3,135 8,069 7,206 885 1 114 Unitarian . . . TJniversalist . . Minor Sects . . 243 4b4 325 136,367 205,462 115,347 305 415 354 3/268,122 1,767,015 741,980 1:^,449 3,57o 2,^83 Total . . &6,0ll 13,849,896 384 86,416,^69 2,400 The average number the churches will accom- modate is 384, and the average value 2,400 dollars. From this statement, it appears that the volun- tary principle provides church accommodation for more than one half the population worshipping at the dame moment. APPENDIX. 08 1 FARMS. Improved Land: The average quantity of im- proved land (meaning thereby land which ha? become, by cultivation, more or less produc- tive) is about seven and a half acres to each (free) inhabitant ; but assuming that two-fifths of the population live in towns, or are otherwise occupied, the proportion assigned to each person working it may be assumed to average not less than twelve acres. In the New England States, the average for the whole population is a little more than four acres to each person. In Virginia it is about seven acres ; in South Carolina, six ; Kentucky, twelve; and in Tennessee, five acres. The cash value of the farms (including the unimproved land) in the United States is set down at 3,270 million dollars. Unimproved Land. This return is understood to mean the unproductive land connected with or belonging to the productive farms. Its value is included in the general total, but on what data does not appear. The number of acres is given as 184 millions. In order, however, to give a better appreciation of the comparative number of acres of improved and unimproved land in the several States of the Union, the cash value of the farms, and the value of the farming implements and machinery upon them, we will give the table as it has been compiled. In all the items, we leave out the last triad of figures, so that each number represents so many thousands of either acres or dollars. It will appear, therefore, that in the United States, in 1852, the total quantity of improved land was 118,457,000 acres, and of unimproved, 184,621,000 ; that the cash value of the above farms was estimated at 3,270,733,000 dollar*; and the implements and machinery thereon, at 151,569,000 dollars. 382 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. Acrs of Land in Farms. Implmts. STATES. Cash value and Improv'd. Unmprv'd. of Farms. Machny. Dollars. Dollars. Maine 2,039 2,515 54,861 2,284 New Hampshire.... 2,251 1,140 55,245 2,314 Vermont 2,601 1,524 63,367 2,739 Massachusetts 2,133 1,222 109,096 3,209 Rhode Island 356 197 17,070 497 1,768 615 72,726 1,892 NewYork 12,408 6,710 554,546 22,084 New Jersey. 1,767 984 120,237 4,425 Pennsylvania 8,628 6,294 407,876 14,722 Delaware 580 375 18,880 510 Maryland 2,797 1,836 87,178 2,463 District of Co-) lumbia ) 16 x ll 1,730 40 Virginia 10,360 15,762 216,401 7,021 North Carolina. .... 5,453 15,543 67,891 3,931 South Carolina 4,072 12,145 82,431 4,136 Georgia 6,378 16,442 95,753 5,894 Florida.. ..... 349 1,236 6,323 658 Alabama 4,435 7,702 64,323 5,125 Mississippi 3,444 7,046 54,738 5,762 Louisiana 1,590 3,939 75,814 11,576 Texas 639 14,454 16,398 2,133 Arkansas 781 1,816 15,265 1,601 Tennessee 5,175 13,808 97,861 5,369 Kentucky 11,368 10,972 154,330 5,169 Ohio 9,851 8,146 858,758 12,750 Michigan 1,929 2,454 51,872 2,891 Indiana 5,046 7,746 136,385 6,704 Illinois 5,039 6,997 96,133 6,405 Missouri 2,938 6,794 63,225 3,981 Iowa 824 1,911 16,657 1,172 Wigconsin 1*045 1,931 28,528 1,641 California.... 62 3,831 3,874 103 Territories. Minnesota 5 23 161 15 Oregon 182 299 2,849 183 Utah 16 30 311 84 New Mexico 166 124 1,653 75 Total 118,457 184,621 3,270,733 151,569 One utility of the return of unimproved land lies APPENDIX 383 in the supposition that reliable calculations respect- ing the quantity of land brought into requisition annually for agricultural purposes may be made, when a future census shall be compiled. Value of Agricultural Implements. From the above return, it appears that 151 millions of dollars are at the present time invested in implements and machinery for aiding in the cultivation of the earth, and in preparing its produce for consumption. New York has thus invested 22 millions ; Penn- sylvania, 14| ; Louisiana (to a great extent for crushing sugar), llj; and Ohio, 12f. "No- where," says the report, " does the same amount of ingenuity appear to have been exercised in their [^agricultural implements]] preparation as is evinced with our mechanics and husbandmen." DOMESTIC ANIMALS. Horses, Asses^ and Mules. The United States are estimated to possess 4J millions of horses, or more than three times as many as Great Britain. The increase in horses, mules, and asses during ten years is above half a million, the greatest proportional increase, it is sup- posed, being in mules. It is supposed that the introduction of railways into some of the States has decreased considerably the number of these useful animals in the State of New York alone, to the number of 26,000; and in New England generally to the extent of 25 per cent. In Ohio and the new States of the north-west, the increase of horses has kept pace with the population. New York has one horse to seven persons ; Ohio, one to four; Kentucky, one to three (free). The number of asses and mules in the Union is 559,000, of which all but 30,000 are found in the Southern States. The climate of the south renders these animals the most serviceable; and much attention is said to be given to their raising. Tennessee is 384 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. the leading State in their production. Milch Cows, fyc. The aggregate of cows, working oxen, and other cattle, given in 1850, is 18,355,287; the increase in ten years being about 20 per cent. They are equally distributed over the Union, one- third being milch cows. As with horses, allowance is to be made on account of the omission of cows except in connection with agriculture. Closely connected with milch cows are the articles of butter and cheese. The total value for the year ending June 1, 1850, however, is not given; that for 1 840 was estimated at 33f millions of dollars. New York is far in advance in the productiveness of its dairies, yielding one-quarter of all the butter, and nearly one-half of all the cheese produced in the Union. Pennsylvania produces 40,000,000 Ibs. of butter annually ; but little cheese. In the latter article, Ohio is next to New York. The exports of dairy produce from the Union for 1850-1 were, butter nearly 4, and cheese 10? million pounds, valued at 1,124,652 dollars. Sheep. There has been an increase in the number of sheep in the ten years amounting to 2,300,000, or about 12 per cent. Regarding their distribution, however, there are some singular facts. In the New England States, there has been a decrease in the number, amounting to 45 per cent, or from 3,800,000 to about 2,150,000. In the five Atlantic Middle States, there has been a decrease, in the same period, of above If millions, or 22i per cent; Pennsylvania alone having an increase of 152,000. Whilst, however, there has been a positive diminu- tion of nearly 3| millions in the States above named, there has been an increase of nearly 5| mil- lion? in those south of Maryland and west of New York, Ohio alone increasing her stock nearly 2 millions, or almost 100 per cent. The hilly lauds APPENDIT. 385 of Virginia, the Carolinas, Tennessee, and the prairies of Illinois, Iowa, and Texas (in which there has been a considerable increase) it is expected will prove highly favourable for the rearing of sheep. It has been calculated that the population of the States consume on an average 7 Ib. of wool each per annum. As regards the supply of this important article of clothing, it is stated that while the number of sheep has but increased 12 per cent in ten years, the aggregate weight of their fleeces has increased 46 per cent. In 1850, the average weight per fleece was 2.43 Ib. ; in 1840, it was only 1.84lb. In New York and Ver- mont, the increased productiveness of sheep has been the most marked, for the former State alone produced, in 1850, 226,000 Ibs. more of wool from 3,453,000 sheep, than from 5,118,000 in 1840. The wool imported for the last year, of which there is a return, amounted to 184 million pounds. Swine. The number of swine are given at 30^ millions ; of which Tennessee possesses about 3| ; Kentucky, 2| ; Indiana, above 2J ; and Ohio, Illinois, Alabama, Virginia, North Carolina, and Missouri, nearly 2 millions each ; and New York, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, and Mississippi, above 1 million each. The total value of the live stock is about 544 million dollars. Mr. Kennedy's report states that the first animals brought to Ame- rica were by Columbus, in his second voyage, in 1493; the first horses, however, brought into any part of the territory at present embraced in the United States were landed in Florida, in 1527 ; but they all perished. The next importation, also into Florida, was by De Soto, in 1539, and con- sisted of a large number of horses and swine. At the commencement of the 17th century there were ^ many separate importations of all kinds of animals 386 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. and poultry, into several of the present States ;,and the present stock consists of the offspring of the animals first introduced, aided to some extent by more 'recent importations, principally of animals of more pure blood. Besides the Norman and the Canadian horse (used as roadsters), the States have their Conestoga or Pennsylvania, their Kentucky, their Morgan, and their Virginia horse, all more or less noted for particular purposes. The cows of the Union are the reproduction of England. The Durham cow, for feeding, is preferred for the rich pastures of the Middle and Northern States, and of those of Ohio, Kentucky, and other parts of the west. The Herefords are best adapted for rather poor pastures, and regions subject to continued drought, such as New Mexico, Texas, California, and some portions of the south ; they are also con- sidered good in yoke. The Ayrshire cow beat suits Massachusetts, Vermont, and New Hampshire, districts comparatively cool and mountainous. The Devons which make the best teams, appear adapted to almost all kinds of climate and pasture. The kinds of sheep include Merinoes, South Downs, Cotswolds, Leicestershire, and Saxons. The swine, besides some English varieties, include Chinese and Neapolitan, the latter being especially adapted to the Southern States. There is some export of domestic animals from the States. In the year 1850-1, it consisted of 1,364 horses, 2,946 mule^ 1,350 cattle, 4,357 sheep, and 1,030 swine. WHEAT. During the last ten years, the crop of wheat, which, next to maize, is the most important in the Union, has increased fom 84| million to above 100 million bushels. The New England States show a decreased growth of nearly one- half ; whilst Ohio, Virginia, and some of the Western States, show a very large increase, although in , APPENDIX. 387 some parts of the Union the crop of 1849 was not considered an average. The earliest European settlers introduced wheat into the then North American colonies, it being first sown on the Eli- zabeth Islands, Massachusetts, by Gosnold, at the time he explored that coast in 1602. In 1718 " The Western Company" introduced wheat into the valley of the Mississippi ; where owing to care- less cultivation, and the sudden changes of tem- perature, it at first only yielded from five to eight- fold. In 1746, however, there was an import of 600 barrels from the Wabash into New Orleans ; and in 1750, the French of Illinois raised three times as much wheat as they consumed. The chief varieties cultivated in the Northern and East- ern States are the white flint, tea, Siberian, bald, Black Sea, and the Italian spring wheat ; in the Middle and Western States, the Mediterranean, the Virginia white may, the blue stem, the Indiana, the Kentucky white bearded, the old red chaff, and the Talavera. The yield varies from 58lb. to 671b per bushel. RYE. There has been a decrease of 4 million bushels of this grain during the last ten years ; the present quantity being rather over 14 million bushels. There has been an increase of 40 per cent in its growth in the State of New York; while Pennsylvannia, the great producer, has fallen off from 7,631,000 to 4,805,000 bushels. It is thought the general diminution in the quantity of this grain now produced, may suppose a corres- ponding decline in the demand for distilling pur- poses, for which a large part of the crop is used. Its export has never been great. The yield per acre varies from ten to thirty or more bushels, each weighing from 48 to 56 pounds. MAIZK OR INDIAN CORN. The increase in the 388 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. produce of maize, since 1840, 1ms been 214,000.000 bushels, or equal to 56 per cent. In the produc- tion of this crop no State has retrograded ; the New England States having increased their growth of it by nearly fifty per cent. Ohio, which, ten years ago, occupied the fourth place, is now the first maize-producing State ; Kentucky is second, Ten- nessee fourth, and Illinois third. The maize crop of the last- mentioned State has increased 160 per cent in ten years. More than 11,000,000 bushels of Indian corn were consumed in 1850. in the manu- facture of malt and spirituous liquors. The crop of 1840 was 347^ million bushels; in 1850, it was above 592| millions. Between the 44th degrees of north and south latitude, with proper sort and soil, maize, it is supposed, may be accounted a sure crop. It is now found, says the report, in a wild state, from the Rocky Mountains in North America, to the humid forests of Paraguay, where instead of having each grain naked, as is always the case after long cultivation, it is completely covered with glumes or husks. The first success- ful attempt to cultivate it was made by the English, in 1608, on the James River, in Virginia. The present yield, east of the Rocky Mountains, when judiciously cultivated, varies from 20 to 1 35 bushels per acre. There are very many varieties of maize, its character changing by distant transplantation. The blades of the plant, as food for stock, are con- sidered valuable. OATS. In 1840, the total produce of oats was 123 million bushels ; in 1850, it was 146i millions. Oats have never entered much into foreign com- merce, nor are they much used for the manufacture of liquors of any kind. They are principally grown in the Middle, "Western, and Northern States ; the yield varying from forty to ninety bushels to the APPENDIX. 389 acre. An oat, resembling the cultivated variety, is found growing wild in California. The varieties cultivated are the common white, the black, the grey, the imperial, the Hopetown, the Polish, 'the Egyptian, and the potatoe oat. The Egyptian variety, cultivated south of Tennessee, the report says, " after being sown in autumn, and fed off by stock in winter and spring, yields from ten to twenty bushels per acre." RICE. The culture of rice is chiefly confined to the Southern States ; the yield is from 20 to 60 bushels per acre ; although as many as 90 bushels have been raised, weighing from 45lb to 48lb when cleaned. The crop of 1840 was 80f million pounds; that of 1850 was 215| millions. The export for a number of years has exceeded 100,000 tierces. Though introduced from the Old World, American rice is now considered the finest in quality. A Cochin- China rice, adapted to a dry soil, without irrigation, is cultivated to some extent; but its produce is only from 15 to 20 bushels per acre. South Carolina grows about 3-4ths of the quantity (160 millions) produced. The next States in order are, Georgia (38), North Carolina (5|), and Louisiana (4i) millions). TOBACCO. The amount of tobacco raised in the United States in 1840, was 219 millions of pounds ; in 1850, it had decreased to 199| millions. Al- though raised by the aborigines, it was only in 1611 that the Virginians cultivated tobacco with the spade. In 1616, however, various regulations were framed to restrain its production, so alarm- ingly had its cultivation spread. But as an in- creasing demand for the article was experienced, repeated proclamations were of no avail. The chief Stntes that produce tobacco and the amounts are as follows: Virginia, 56i million pounds; 390 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. Kentucky, 55 J; North Carolina, 41f ; Maryland, 21 1 ; Tennesse, 20? ; Missouri, 17^ ; and produc- tive Ohio, 101 millions. COTTON. In 1840, the crop of cotton was 7904 million pounds; in 1850, it was 987^ mil- lions. Its culture is rapidly diminishing in Vir- ginia and North Carolina ; there is a falling off also in Louisiana, whilst Alabama occupies the first place as a cotton -producing State, her produc- tion having almost doubled in 10 years. The re- port on cotton concludes as follows : " Immense as the extent and value of this crop has become, it is not extravagant to anticipate a rate of increase for the current decennial period which will bring up the aggregate for the year 1850 to 4,000,000 bales." The average yield of cotton is about 5,000 pounds per acre. BUCKWHEAT. The quantity of buckwheat raised in 1840, was 7,290,000 bushels ; in 1850 it was 8,956,000. There is no export. This grain ap- pears not to have been much cultivated in the Union prior to the last century, as it is not often mentioned by writers on America previous to that period. New York and Pennsylvania are the principal producers. BARLEY. In 1840 there were 4,161,000 bushels of barley raised, against 5,167,000, in 1850. Its consumption for the manufacture of liquor was 3,780,000 bushels in 1850. Its yield is from 30 to 50 or more bushels per acre; weighing 45 to 551b to the bushel. There is no export. The variety chiefly cultivated in the Union is the two- rowed variety, which is preferred from the fullness of its berry, and its freedom from smut. The State of New York produces 3i out of the 5 millions. POTATOES. The quantity of potatoes grown in APPENDIX. 391 1850, was smaller than in 1840, the numbers being: in 1840, 108 million bushels; in 1850, 104 millions. To the greater uncertainty attend- ing its cultivation during late years, that is, since the appearance of the " potatoe disease" is to be ascribed the falling off; it being one of the four agricultural products that show a falling off during the last ten years. The period of the introduction of the potatoe into the British North American colonies is not precisely known. It is mentioned among the products of Carolina and Virginia in 1T49 ; and by Kalm as growing in New York the same year. In the Union the common potato has been principally confined to the Northern, Middle, and Western States ; it gives way to the sweet potato, its more tropical rival, in the states of Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana. WINE. In 1840 the wine produced in the Union was estimated at 124,000 gallons. In 1850, at which time New Mexico had been incorporated, bringing a supply of 60,000 gallons, the total pro- duct was only 221,000 gallons. The consumption of wine, though by no means general, is, however, considered great. The imports for the year ending June, 1851, were 6,160,000 gallons, principally from France, the invoice cost being estimated at 2,370,000 dollars. The quantity of ale and spi- rituous liquors produced in the Union in 1850 exceeded 86,000,000 gallons, the imports about balancing the exports. The earliest attempt to establish a vineyard was in 1620, by a London company, in Virginia. William Penn also at- tempted to establish a vineyard, near Philadelphia, in 1683, but did not succeed. Ohio now produces about one-fifth the whole quantity made. HOPS. The increase in the culture of hops in the Union has been nearly 200 per cent., almost 302 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. the whole increase taking place in the State of New York ; the increase there being from 500,000 to 2,500,000 pounds, or more than five-sevenths of the whole crop of the United States. New York, too, is the best brewer of ale, beer, and porter ; the breweries of the State producing in 1850, 645,000 barrels, or more than a third of the quantity re- turned for the whole Union. FLAX AND HEMP. In 1840 there were raised in the Union 95,250 tons of hemp and flax; in 1850, 34,093 tons of hemp and 7,716,000 pounds of flax. The cultivation of flax, up to 1840, how- ever, was principally for the seed, which com- manded a remunerative price. The invention of Chevalier Claussen is now attracting some attention to its growth. Both flax and hemp were early introduced by the English colonists. Both are mentioned as growing in New England in 1632 ; and bounties were offered for their production in Virginia in 1751. In 1622 an edict was passed, requiring each poll in Virginia to raise and manu- facture six pounds of linen thread, which, however, was soon repealed. SILK. According to the returns of 1840, the amount of silk cocoons raised in the Union was 61,550 pounds; in 1850, only 14,760 pounds. Since 1740, the production has thus decreased above 46,000 pounds. It is also less by 382,000 than in 1844. Silk culture was early introduced into the North American colonies, Virginia being the first State that took it up, under the auspices of a London company ; and its cultivation was very much stimulated at the time. It has been tried, and is now cultivated in several of the States, but with apparently indifferent success. SUGAR. In Louisiana in -1840, the cane and maple sugar grown amounted to nearly 120 million APPENDIX. pounds ; the entire weight for the Union reaching only 155 millions. In 1850, or in ten years, there was an increase of 126| million pounds, the total amount heing 28 If million pounds, besides, as in the former period about 12 million gallons of molasses. In 1818 the sugar crop of Louisiana was 25 million pounds, in 1850 it was 226 millions. The quantity of sugar produced on an are varies from 500 to 3,000 pounds, averaging, perhaps, from 800 to 1,000 pounds. Hitherto the amount of sugar and molasses consumed in the United States has exceeded the quantities produced. The principal States that produce maple sugar are : New York, 10| million pounds; Vermont, 6 ; Ohio, 44; Indiana, nearly 3; Michigan and Penn- sylvania, under 2| each ; and Virginia and New Hampshire, about 1 each. Louisiana produces about nine-tenths of the cane-sugar, or 226 out of 247 million pounds. The introduction of the sugar cane into Florida and Louisiana probably dates back to their earliest settlement by the Spaniards aud French. It was not cultivated in the latter State, however, as a staple product before 1751, being introduced there by the Jesuits, with several negroes, from St. Domingo. Since the revolution, while the production of cane sugar has been an- nually increasing at the south, the manufacture of maple sugar has been extending in the north and" west. In most parts of Louisiana, the canes yield three crops from one plantation ; but at the northern range of its cultivation, although consi- dered a perennial, it requires to be replanted every year. Within the tropics, an abundant yield is obtained from the same roots for twelve, fifteen, and even twenty-four years. 334 UNITKD STATES OF AMERICA. CANAL STATISTICS. Statement of Property left at Albany via the Erie and Champlain Canals, from the opening to the close of navigation in 1851 and 1852, shewing the kind, quan- tity, and average value of each article : Description. 1852. THE FOREST. Quantity. Value in Dollars. Quantity. Fur and Peltry, Ibs... Boards and Scantling, feet 317,135,620 Shingles, M 31,636 Timber, c. feet 291,714 Staves, Ibs 10,961,389 Wood, cords 8,297 Ashes, barrels 7,349 74,082 96,307 151,260 5,495,960 260,238,003 110,726 34,136 52,509 110,200 507,418 115,087,290 41,485 5,554 213,121 8,830 Total value 6,517,526* AGRICULTURE. Pork, barrels. 26,226 457,381 15,069 Beef, barrels 36,918 433,687 24,975 Bacon, Ibs 3,610,377 339,375 2,728,030 Cheese, Ibs 2,947,978 235,838 4,118,070 Butter, Ibs 1,216,453 225,044 1,462,810 Lard, Tallow, and Oil, Ibs 5,181,788 569,997 3,338,730 Wool, Ibs 4,145,970 1,741,307 6,170,476 Hides, Ibs /. 315,592 44,183 231,723 Flour, barrels 1,651,789 7,482,604 1,571,201 Wheat, bushels, 1,495,714 1,525,628 657,630 Rye, bushels 31,959 25,567 35,758 Corn, bushels 2,981,938 1,997,898 3,953,454 Corn meal, barrels 5,456 15,977 1,224 Barley, bushels 1,386,678 1,012,275 1,159,701 Oats, bushels 1,573,145 692,184 1,042,482 Bran and Ship stuffs, Iba 19,283,637 173,553 19,319,000 Beans and Peas, bush. 15,213 19,016 17,038 APPENDIX. 395 Potatoes, bushels 63,299 37,979 94,957 Dried Fruit, Ibs 32,662 2,613 392,550 Cotton, Ibs , 36,811 4,049 133,830 Unmanufactured to- bacco, Ibs 5,925,900 1,303,698 1,811,330 Hemp, Ibs 928,467 47,350 802,440 Clover and Grass Seed, Ibs ,.... 951,126 71,334 227,180 Flax Seed, Ibs 666,175 13,324 Hops, Ibs 98,368 29,510 59,750 Total value 18,500,771 MANUFACTURES. Domestic spirits, galls 2,415,519 543,492 910,875 Oilmeal and cakes, Ibs. 1,136.696 14,777 861,100 Leather, Ibs 1,331,790 213,088 1,465,855 Furniture, Ibs 346,074 34,607 145,045 Bloom and Bar Iron, Ibs 4,483,109 67,247 16,294,190 Castings, Ibs 290,242 10,158 99,530 Domesticwoollens,lbs 16,754 15,916 21,940 Domestic cottons, Ibs. 188,577 49,030 142,435 Domestic Salt, Ibs 5,633,449 25,351 8,543,500' Total value '... 976,785 MERCHANDISE. Sugar, Ibs 2,416 157 Nails and Spikes, Ibs. 1,111,029 36,108 908,920 Iron and Steel, Ibs.... 75,794 2,046 33,730 Crockery and Glass- ware, Ibs 73,636 6,995 40,169 All other merchan- dise, Ibs 2,669,275 800,783 750,280 Total value 846,089 OTHER ARTICLES. Live Cattle, hogs, and sheep, Ibs 98,730 2,962 230,300 Stone, Lime and Clay, Ibs 38,203,441 57,305 41,868,130 Gypsum, Ibs 1,084,298 2,169 1,190,500 Mineral Coal, Ibs 180,700 452 518,370 Copper Ore, Ibs..:. 20,968 3,145 314,080 Sundries, Ibs 26,599,114 551,982 42,448,982 Total value 598,015 396 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Total value under the divisons, as specified in the above table : 1852. Dollars. The Forest 6,517,526 Agriculture 18,500,771 Manufactures 976,785 Merchandise 846,089 Other articles 598,015 1851. Dollars. 285,105 15,225,347 873,153 76,607 969,349 Total value 27,439,186 22,456,561 Statement showing the aggregate in tons, under the divisions, as above specified : The Forest 564,763 Agriculture 401,745 Manufactures 17,739 Merchandise 1,967 Other articles . . .. 33,093 483,665 376,407 18,497 867 43,284 Total 1,019,307 922,110 The following is the comparative values and quantities declared at Albany : TOTAL VALUE. 1852. Dollars. The Forest 42,626 Agriculture 485,303 Manufactures 630,797 Merchandise 30,040,552 Other articles 277,097 1851. Dollars. 1,028 551,927 578,641 21,385,234 345,979 Total 31,476,375 22,862,627 AGGREGATE IN TONS. The Forest 1,031 Agriculture 4.056 Manufactures 1 3,355 Merchandise ^23,407 Other articles 35,185 69 2,184 12,665 86,161 34,387 Total tons 177,034 135,47 APPENDIX. 397 EMIGRATION TO NEW YORK FOR THE YEAR 1852. The following tables, which we have compiled from the books of the Commissioners of Emigra- tion, will exhibit the emigration for the last year ; also the totals for the three previous years. Sub- joined is the first table, showing the number of passengers to New York, both foreign born and native, for every month in the year : Months. January February March April May June July August September October Noyember , December Total Citizens. Aliens. 1,703 11,592 2,562 5,342 3,134 21,726 3,545 38,193 3,917 33,379 5,541 49,225 4,550 29,403 3,359 34,510 3,232 36,777 2,757 17,765 2,528 16,573 2,224 15,019 39,052 299,504 Of the foreigners, there arrived from Ireland Germany England . Scotland Wales Fraace . Spain Switzerland Holland Norway Sweden 117,537 118,126 31,276 7,640 2,531 8,778 450 6,455 1,223 1,889 2,066 Belgium West Indies Nova Scotia . Sardinia . South America Canada . China Sicily . Mexico Russia . East Indies . 82 265 73 69 120 48 14 42 22 33 18 398 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. Denmark Italy Portugal 156 Turkey 358 Greece 29 Poland 4 6 186 Total aliens American citizens arrived ,, passengers . 299,504 39,052 388,566 The following table exhibits a comparative view of the emigration from all the countries for the last four years : Nation, Ireland . Germany England Scotland Wales France . Spain Switzerland Holland Norway . Sweden Denmark Italy Portugal Belgium West Indies Nova Scotia Sardinia . South America Canada . China Sicily- Mexico Russia East Indies . Turkey . Greece Poland Arabia Total . 1849. 1850. 1851. 1852. 112,691 116,582 163,256 117,537 55,705 45,402 69,883 118,126 28,321 28,125 28,553 31,276 8,840 6,771 7,302 7,640 1,782 1,520 2,189 2,531 2,683 3,398 6,064 8,778 214 257 278 450 1,405 2,351 4,499 6,455 . 2,447 1,174 1,789 1,223 3,300 3,150 2,112 1,889 . 1,007 1,110 872 2,066 159 90 229 156 602 475 618- 358 287 55 26 29 118 230 475 82 449 554 575 265 151 161 81 73 172 165 98 69 33 103 221 120 59 61 50 48 9 11 9 14 21 28 11 42 23 41 42 22 38 18 23 33 34 32 10 18 6 5 4 4 6 3 1 6 133 183 142 186 8 220,603 211,796 289,601 299,504 APfENDlX. PERSONAL CENSUS. The personal census of the United States ex- hibit* a population of about 23,000,000, free and slave. Of these 17,736,792 are free, and 2,210, 828 are of foreign origin. The emigrant popula- tion, therefore, amounts to 11 60-100 per cent oi the free population. The following table shows the proportion which several foreign countries have furnished to the emigrant population iu the United States : Countries. United States. Ireland . . . . 43,4 Germany . . . 25,9 England and Wales . . 13,40 Scotland . . . 3,17 British America . . . 6,68 The population of the United States has in- creased, during the last fifty years, 337 per cent, and during the last ten years 36 per cent. For the last ten years, the increase has been from 1,066,709, a gross augmentation of members of 775,550, or 73 per cent for the ten years. FINIS. J. S. Pratt, Printer, Stokesley, Yorkshire. Just Published, with a Coloured Map, price 2s. Qd. ; or post free, 3s. A US TEAL AS II; COMPRISED NEW SOUTH WALES/ PORT PHILIP, (VICTORIA, VAN DIEMAN'S LAND, WESTERN AUSTRALIA, AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA. BY EGBERT STEWART, A.M. This Volume contains a complete Geographical descrip- tion of the Australasian countries, with a detailed account of the Climate, Soil, Production, Population, Manufacture, Religion, Arts, Government, &c., and authentic docu- ments, illustrating the progress and state of the Austral- asian colonies to the latest date. LONDON : W, TWEEDIE, 337, STRAND.