PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS 
 
 im 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 jloRRis PHILLIPS
 
 HOTEL ALBEMRLE, 
 
 ("Patronized by J^oyaltv.) 
 
 PICCADILLY, LONDON- 
 
 palatial hotel is fitted up in the most luxur- 
 -> ious style, and is one of the finest and most select 
 hotels in Europe. Cuisine and wines of the highest 
 class. The salle a manger is open to non-residents. 
 
 Telegraphic Address, " Hotel Albemarle," London. 
 
 Guide to London, an attractive little book of 50 
 pages, sent free of charge on application to the proprietor 
 of the Albemarle. Address 
 
 A. L. VOQEL.
 
 UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS 
 
 PARIS, - - 1O,:.OO Ton*. 
 NEW YORK, 1O,50O " 
 
 BERLIN, - - o,491 Tons. 
 CHESTER, - 4,77O ',' 
 
 New Yoik, Southampton * London 
 
 FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $70 to $650, 
 
 NOTE. Round Trip Ticketb issued at reduced rates, and the return 
 portion can.it" desired.be used by RED STAR LINE from Antwerp 
 to New York or Philadelphia. 
 
 Co., 
 
 GENERAL AGENTS, 
 
 6 BOWLING GREEN, New York.
 
 THE GORDON HOTELS ARE 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 The Grand Hotel. 
 
 Hotel Metropole and the Whitehall Rooms. 
 
 The First Avenue Hotel. 
 
 BRIGHTON. 
 
 Hotel Metropole and the Clarence Rooms. 
 
 EASTBOURNE. 
 
 Burlington Hotel. 
 
 RYDE. 
 
 Royal Pter Hotel. 
 
 MONTE CARLO. 
 
 Hotel Metropole. 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 H6tel Metropole.
 
 TJ0T6L VlGTQRIAQ 
 
 CHAEING CROSS, LONDON, W. C. 
 
 ROOMS FOR ARBITRATIONS 
 AND MEETINGS. 
 
 BANQUETING-ROOM FOR 
 PRIVATE PARTIES. 
 
 N E of the most magnificent Hotels 
 in Europe. Most centrally situate 
 for all London attractions close 
 to Westminster Abbey, the Houses 
 of Parliament, and the principal Theatres 
 
 500 ROOMS SUPERBLY 
 FURNISHED. : : 
 
 COMPLETELY LIGHTED 
 BY ELECTRICITY. : 
 
 PASSENGER LIFTS TO 
 EVERY FLOOR. : : 
 
 TELEGRAPHIC 
 
 ADDRESS 
 
 VIC TORI OLA 
 
 LONDON 
 
 Manager, G. REEVES SMITH.
 
 HOTEL WINDSOR, 
 
 VICTORIA STREET, 
 Westminster, LONDON, S- W. 
 
 Convenient and central location ; European OP 
 American system ; \\)Q only l?otel in London witl? 
 Turl?isl? and otl^er batiks ; elevators ; electrically 
 iialjted tl?roual?out, day and nial?t. 
 
 J. R. CLEAVE & CO., PROPRIETORS.
 
 vU H ~~' 
 
 BRISTOL HOTEL, 
 
 BURLINGTON GARDENS, LONDON, W., i J 
 
 ll-i . Bond Street and Regent Street, and near Piccadilly) 
 
 FURNISHED WITH EVERY POSSIBLE 
 
 COMFORT AND MODERN IMPROVEMENT. 
 
 NEW HYDRAULIC LIFT TO ALL FLOORS. 
 
 'LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY. 
 
 LARGE OR SMALL SUITES OR SINGLE ROOMS. 
 
 THE RESTAURANT (1 " 
 
 Ts \ 
 
 Separate Entrance in 
 'k Street is open to 
 Non-residents ) 
 
 THE HIGH CHARACTERS OF THE WINES AND CUISINE HAVE OBTAINED 
 GREAT REPUTATION. 
 
 Pfllineiston Hestnuniit, 
 
 BISHOPSGATE STREET AND OLD BROAD ST., 
 
 LONDON, (CITY) E.G. 
 
 T^e Lsapgest @ne Floor {Regtaupant in fchje World 
 (Covering upwards of arj 
 
 LUNCHEON, OYSTER AND AMERICAN BARS. : 
 
 TOD? A T D ^ ' DINING ' GRILL AND SMOKING ROOMS. : 
 
 }_' HAIR DRESSING SALOON, BA THS, etc. : : 
 " CIGAR and WINE DEPOTS (Wholesale and Retail ) 
 
 WORTHY OF A VISIT.
 
 SIMPSON'S 
 
 (LIMITED) 
 
 IO3 STRAND, 
 
 Opposite Exeter Hall, - LONDON. 
 
 OOHE premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of 
 
 V0 fifty years, which still retains its supremacy for being the 
 
 house to get the best English Dinner in London at a moderate 
 
 price. There is also a magnificent Ladies' Dining Room where 
 
 ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the 
 
 room down stairs. Private rooms for large or small parties. 
 
 Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton 
 specially cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of 
 professed Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables 
 Matured wines and spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the 
 kingdom. 
 
 E. W. CATHIE, MANAGING DIRECTOR.
 
 FAMILY HOTEL, 
 
 BATH, ENGLAND. 
 
 ALSO AT 
 
 S, Vincent's Rock Hotel, Clifton, Bristol, England, 
 
 HIS favourite First Class Establishment possesses many 
 ^J local advantages, being close to the General Post and 
 Telegraph Offices, and also very near the Assembly Rooms, 
 the Victoria Park, the Royal Crescent, and all the most 
 attractive parts of the City. 
 
 The Hotel contains numerous Suites of Elegant Apart- 
 ments, and is under the personal superintendence of the 
 Proprietor, who has had many years' experience in hotel 
 management. 
 
 For Tariff, which is revised and moderate, address 
 
 E. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. 
 
 LARGE ROOM FOR WEDDING BREAKFASTS, 
 DINNERS, PUBLIC MEETINGS, &c.
 
 HOTEL B1NBA, 
 
 /- -^^^-^- 
 
 11 rue de L'Echelle, 
 AVENUE DE L'OPERA, PARIS. 
 
 and small apartments; lift to 
 *~^** each floor ; mokin^ and drawing- 
 room ; bathroom on each floor; table 
 d'hote, 6 francg, from 6 to 8 o'clock, at 
 Separate tables ; restaurant a la carte. 
 
 ADVANTAGEOUS ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH 
 FAMILIES WINTERING IN PARIS. 
 
 Electric Light all over the T-Iotase. 
 
 CHARLES BINDA, PROPRIETOR, 
 
 Late with Delmonico, New York.
 
 OTEMST1L 
 
 37, Rue Cambon, 37, 
 PA^IS. 
 
 BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES 
 
 Rn face les jardins du Ministere de la Justice 
 
 MAISON 
 
 lf 
 
 WULLSGHLEGER & C IE 
 
 BAINS 
 ASCENSEUR 
 
 PROPRIBTAIRBS. 
 
 RESTAURANT 
 
 TABLE D'HOTE 
 
 CALORIFKRE 
 
 TELEPHONE 
 ELEgTRlGITE
 
 PARIS. 
 
 HOTKL 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 MTROFOLE, 
 
 6 RUE CASTIGLIONE. 6 
 
 Mf^IS first-class f-lotel, situated in the 
 best part of the metropolis, opposite 
 the Hotel Continental and the Vuileries 
 (gardens, is highly recommended for 
 comfort, cuisine, moderate charges and 
 sanitary arrangements; tis American 
 
 elevator. 
 
 X. 81 bV AjNl I, Proprietor.
 
 LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY 
 
 THE OLD ROUTE IN THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS' FAVORITE. 
 
 IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE. 
 
 SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM 
 
 LIVERPOOL (Lime Street Station) to LONDON (Euston Station) 
 under FOUR AND A-HALF HOURS to GLASGOW (Central 
 Station), in FIVE AND THREE-QUARTER HOURS. 
 
 QUEENSTOWN to LONDON via Dublin and Holyhead, 
 in FIFTEEN HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES. 
 
 Baggage Checked Through from New York to Lon- 
 don, both via QUEENSTOWN and LIVERPOOL. 
 
 At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses from Landing Stage, 
 and Special Trains from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station 
 and Hotel. 
 
 NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, 
 Liverpool, the best and largest the hotel for Americans. 
 
 SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London when re- 
 quisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from America. 
 
 Elegant Vestibule Drawing-Room Cars without extra 
 charge. Compartments with lavatories, and private saloon and 
 family carriages for parties without extra charge. 
 
 Sleeping Cars with Compartments and brass Beds, 53. per berth 
 in addition to first-class fares. 
 
 DINING CARS on principal trains and "American Specials." 
 
 Luncheon Baskets at the principal Stations. 
 
 In LONDON, Family Omnibuses can be obtained ; and the 
 Enstoii Hotel (at the Station), noted for its Cellar and its French 
 Cuisine, will be found mos~. comfortable. 
 
 THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY 
 has NOT abolished Second Class Carriages; passengers to whom 
 economy is an object, but who do not wish to travel Third Class, can 
 combine comfort with economy by traveling Second Class by this 
 line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third Class Carriages on 
 all trains except the Irish Malls to and from Dublin. 
 
 The Company's Agents. Mr. W. STIRLING, at Queens- 
 town, and Mr. FRED. W. THOMPSON, at Liverpool, meet 
 the American Steamers on arrival, and secure omnibuses, seats, 
 saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give general information. 
 
 THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris, 
 and principal stations in England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, 
 and Continent of Europe. 
 
 TICKETS, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels 
 can be obtained from the Company's Canadian Agent, Mr. D. 
 BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., Montreal, and 
 
 Mr. C. A. BARATTONI, Gen'l Agent for the U. S. and Canada, 
 852 Broad way. near Union Square, New York. 
 
 G. P. NEELE, E. MICHEL, 
 
 Superintendent of the Line. Foreign Traffic Superintendent. 
 
 London, Euston station. Q FINDLAY . Gen'l Manager.
 
 Won, (Mips Dover 
 
 RAILWAY. 
 
 A. THORNB, 
 
 Formerly at H. "B. Claflin 8t Co.'s, New 9ork, 
 
 bondon, (^atfyam 
 
 VICTORIA STATION, LONDON, s. w., 
 
 TTENDS the arrival of the principal steamships at 
 Liverpool and Southampton, and arranges for Special 
 Saloon Carriages upon either the North Western and 
 Midland Railways from Liverpool, or by the South Western 
 Railway from Southampton to London, and thence to Dover 
 from Victoria Station by the London, Chatham and Dover 
 Railway. From Dover to Calais (the shortest sea passage to 
 France) by the magnificent S.S. " Calais-Douvres," "Em- 
 press," " Victoria," and " Invicta," owned and controlled sole- 
 ly by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway Company. 
 
 A. THORNE secures Private Deck Saloons, and from 
 Calais to Paris and other prominent points Special Saloons 
 and Sleeping Cars as required. 
 
 TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: "CALDOVER," LONDON. 
 
 The London, Chatham and Dover Company's trains run 
 from Victoria, St. Paul's and Holborn Stations through the 
 prettiest and most picturesque parts of Kent, and passengers 
 have the privilege of stopping over at Rochester to visit the 
 Cathedral and the Castle, and at Canterbury to view the 
 Cathedral (containing the tomb of the martyr Thomas a 
 Becket), and other places of interest.
 
 SIXTH AVENUE, 20th to 21st ST. 
 
 NEW YORK, 
 
 IMPORTERS AND RETAILERS OF 
 
 FINE MILLINERY, DRY GOODS, 
 
 Ladies', Misses' and Children's Cloaks and Suits, 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S FURNISHINGS, 
 FINE CHINA, GLASSWARE, ETC. 
 
 <)eparfmenf 
 
 Has facilities for handling orders by mail or express that makes 
 shopping at a distance pleasure, guaranteeing perfect satisfaction 
 to the customer, or money refunded. Through this Department we- 
 issue, FREE OF CHARGE (to out of town residents only), semi- 
 annually, April ist and September ist, a HANDSOMEL Y 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, fully describing and illus- 
 trating the many lines of goods in our establishment. SEND FO.K" 
 A COPY. 
 
 H. O'NEILL & CO. 
 
 6th Avenue, 20th to 21st Street, 
 
 NEW YORK.
 
 IAKOTA 
 
 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD AND THIRTIETH STREET, 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 
 ABSOLUTELY 
 
 Situated or) Chicago's Fashionable 
 AfiD "Boulevard, coverjient to the centre 
 eUROPSAD of thje city, all theatres, shjops, etc. 
 
 PLADJ. : : Especially adapted fop tourists. 
 
 aijd service unsurpassed. 
 
 ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 
 
 JAMES R. KEENAN, MANAGER.
 
 /^
 
 ABROAD AND AT HOME 
 
 PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS 
 
 BY 
 
 MORRIS , PHILLIPS 
 
 I > / 
 
 EDITOR OF 
 
 THE HOIVIE JOURNA.L 
 NEW YORK 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 BRENTANO'S 
 
 PARIS WASHINGTON CHICAGO LONDON 

 
 COPYRIGHT 1893, 
 
 BY 
 MORRIS PHILLIPS. 
 
 THE ART PRESS, 
 
 iDEMPSEY & CARROLL. 
 
 .86 EAST14TH STREET, 
 
 NEW YORK.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preface, by Hon. A. OAKKY HALL, ... 5 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 London on Wheels, '. . . . . n 
 
 London Hotels, ..... 26 
 
 A Few Boarding Houses, . . ' . . 46 
 
 Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, 49 
 
 Railway Travelling in England, ; 59 
 
 The Crypt of St, Pauls, .... 67 
 
 The Queen's Mews, .... 70 
 
 The Finest Square in London 73 
 
 Hampton Court Palace, . . . . Si 
 London Oddities, . . . .87 
 
 Poverty and Charity in England, . . 97 
 
 Margate, ..... 100 
 
 Two Brighton Hotels, .... 108 
 
 A Visit to Bleak House, . . . . . in 
 
 Bath and its Attractions, .... 116 
 
 Takin' Notes in Edinboro' Town, . . . 120 
 
 The Burns Monument, .... 127 
 Crossing the Channel . . . .133 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 Paris Hotels, ..... 134 
 
 Pensions of the First Class, . . . 144 
 
 The Restaurants of Paris, ... 148 
 
 The American Church in Paris, . . . 157 
 
 Musee du Louvre, .... 160 
 Musee de Luxembourg, . . . .164 
 
 Musee de Cluny, .... 166 
 
 Hotel des Invalides, ..... 168 
 
 Places of Interest and Time for Visiting Them, . 170 
 
 Places of Public Amusement. . . . 171 
 
 Cab Fares, . . . . . 172 
 
 Tables of Coins, Measures and Distances, . . 173
 
 CONTENTS Continued. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ambassadors, Consuls, Bankers and Religious Services, 174. 
 
 Versailles, . . . . . 175 
 
 En Passant, . . . . . 17? 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 By Sea to Italy, ..... 181 
 
 The Birthplace of Columbus, Hotels, . . 189 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 The Hotels of Lucerne, . . . . 196 
 
 THE UNITED STATES. 
 GEORGIA 
 
 Savannah, The De Soto, . . . 200 
 
 Thomasville, ..... 203 
 
 A New Southern Resort, . . . . 210 
 
 FLORIDA 
 
 A Cuban Ciiy, (Key West), . . 216 
 
 St. Augustine, ..... 225 
 
 About Tampa, .... 228 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 Monterey, ..... 232 
 
 Santa Cruz, ..... 241 
 
 Pasadena ..... 249 
 
 Los Angeles, . .... 254 
 
 "The California" in San Francisco, . 258 
 
 Salt Lake City, . . . . . . 262 
 
 Saratoga Springs, ..... 265 
 
 Adirondack Mountains, .... 268 
 
 Tne Thousand Islands, . . . 271 
 
 Niagara Falls, ..... 273 
 
 Atlantic City, . . 275 
 
 Chicago and Its Hotels, . . 278 
 Railway Travelling in America, . , .288 
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 1893. 
 
 Index to Chapters, . 291 
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 1893-94. 
 Index to Chapters, . . . -343
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 A continuous residence in London of eight years has 
 satisfied me that precisely such a book, so far as it 
 relates to that city, which my friend and once junior 
 legal associate now presents is popularly needed. 
 
 That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even 
 to readers who have never been tourists thither, " goes 
 without saying." Moreover, there are in these pages 
 views, comments and sights of the "abroad "and "at 
 home " additionally valuable ; therefore I gladly accept 
 his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume 
 of an American M. P. in the Parliament of Letters. 
 
 He first broached his idea of papers about London at 
 a capital luncheon, when meeting together there we 
 discussed with palates, forks and wine glasses a tempt- 
 ing menu during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host 
 Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the 
 top of the historic St. James's street. 
 
 We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, 
 and I doubt not, that every reader of this volume will 
 be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first 
 dinner which shall follow its perusal. 
 
 When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the 
 inviting shadow of the Northwestern Railway station 
 hotel, that is flanked by two smaller inns ( with its centre 
 pierced by several taverns, or direct from Southamp-
 
 6 PREFACE. 
 
 ton at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a 
 score of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, 
 that tourist's earliest question will be, which hospitable 
 caravanserai shall I patronize ? 
 
 His second question will concern his vehicular desires 
 for transportation by cab, 'bus or railway. Other quer- 
 ies will suggest themselves regarding the "How, "the 
 "Where," the "Which" and the "Why" of his new 
 London surroundings. 
 
 With this volume on shipboard en route : or in railway 
 carriage in transitu, the tourist will already possess 
 answers in his mind to those queries or similar ones 
 respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow; and will not be. at 
 the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of con- 
 testant "cabbies," or of the shady sharpers who throng 
 railway platforms. 
 
 Once well housed in any of the places herein men- 
 tioned, and once understanding, by the aid of the en- 
 suing pages, how to get about in the vast metropolis 
 wherein one may ride sixteen miles from extreme north 
 to a suburban south, and fourteen miles from west 
 to east without quitting paved and lighted streets, or 
 the continuity of habitations a traveler's eyes and ears 
 will be all the Mentors he will require. 
 ., ; Of. so-called guide books (of which class this is not), 
 there are in London and elsewhere abroad confusing 
 scores, but the average tourist ought to shun guide- 
 books as he would a Bradshaw, unless he loves char- 
 ades, puzzles and conundrums. . . 
 
 Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his 
 footing, the child will walk confidently. This volume
 
 PREFACE. 7 
 
 serves to give the person who arrives in London or 
 Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In the 
 parlance of the race course, it is the " starter." 
 
 On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and 
 learn the points of compass; because all enquiries about 
 the " Where " in London hinge on those. 
 
 The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will 
 be found as valuable as they are piquant. He tells of 
 certain trips (and tips) on top of a 'bus ; he vividly de- 
 scribes how the best way for exploring London is to 
 ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses 
 devoting days to the task, or rather pleasure and 
 when, as street after street is passed, reading their 
 names, which are always sign-affixed to the turn a con- 
 venience even for residents which, in late years, is 
 strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality 
 and prominent buildings and often-referred-to neighbor- 
 hoods become fixed in an observer's mind for future 
 uses of memory. 
 
 I learned to know London " like a book " as common 
 phrase goes : and, I therefore fully appreciate how much 
 this book will serve to teach new tourists how to begin 
 to learn London ; how much it will revive pleasant 
 memories in former tourists ; how greatly it will instruct 
 intending tourists ; how pleasantly it will amuse those 
 who may not expect to practically patronize the hotels ; 
 how well it will instruct as to London's vehicles and the 
 wonders of the English city, which is practically seven- 
 teen centuries older than New York. 
 
 But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic 
 volume. Not only is it inviting to Americans who wish
 
 8 PREFACE. 
 
 to know about the " across-the-ocean-f erry, " but it will 
 be attractive to the countrymen of the M. P. who may 
 travel or who would like to travel Westward, whither 
 ' ' the star of Empire takes its way. " And also to the 
 foreign tourist who may for only one week reside, in 
 transitu to the States, upon the floating greyhoundish 
 hotels which we call steamships. 
 
 Especial attention must be invited to those pages 
 which treat of pleasure resorts in the country of the 
 author ; over which he has travelled extendedly under 
 patriotic, as well as artistic impulses ; and to coin a 
 phrase in which he brought a mental kodak to bear 
 upon scenes and surroundings that, I blush to write it, 
 are slenderly known to Americans. They rush abroad, 
 tempted by the glamour which antiquity and the Past 
 throw over foreign scenes, and they too often neglect 
 the beauties and attractions of their own home. To 
 such the "At Home" and the "Abroad" may both 
 prove equally attractive in good and fit seasons. The 
 pages in question will be inviting also, in the particular 
 mentioned, to the foreigner who may be blase of Euro- 
 pean attractions ; and who may be told by this volume 
 that in Florida or in California he can find fresh Rivieras ; 
 a replica of Carlsbad, in Saratoga ; and in Newport a 
 companion to the Isle of Wight during summer, or to 
 Sicily in the winter. 
 
 Inasmuch as the old International Exhibition in Hyde 
 Park during Prince Albert's time, or in Paris when 
 Napoleon the third reigned, or in Vienna, or Brussels, 
 made so many American tourists lovers of the fascina- 
 tions of those great capitals ; perhaps the Exhibition at
 
 PREFACE. 9 
 
 Chicago will bring as many, or more European tourists 
 to the fascinations proffered by scenes and places in 
 the United States. 
 
 To such foreign tourists this volume must prove as 
 indispensable in the brain and heart sense as in a bodily 
 sense will be the dressing case within the boundaries of 
 excursions and travel. Moreover, the volume will in- 
 dicate to them where to loiter, or to linger, or to take 
 speed, where to abide with pleasure and comfort, and 
 whither to go with the full or prudent purse for pur- 
 chases and cheer. 
 
 Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the 
 wonders, the hotels, the coasts, and the traveling es- 
 pecially toward the Pacific ocean are equally marvel- 
 ous to English M. P. 's and foreign ladies and gentlemen 
 of fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes 
 and comforts. 
 
 Merely "turning the leaves," a phrase happily used as 
 a heading for book notices by the author of ' ' Kissing 
 the Rod" in his World newspaper of London, will at 
 once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied. 
 
 A. OAKEY HALL. 
 
 LOTOS CLUB, March i, 1893.
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 ABOVE GROUND, ON THE GROUND, AND UNDER GROUND. 
 
 THE UNDER-GROUND LINES. 
 
 How the five millions of people in London "get about " 
 to their daily avocations and homes is a mystery to those 
 who have not made the subject a study. So I have gath- 
 ered some information which will throw a little light 
 on it. 
 
 Let me start out with the statement that besides the ten 
 large terminal stations, like the Euston Square and the 
 Midland, both in Euston Road, there are four hundred 
 and thirty railway stations within the metropolis, and 
 the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred 
 and twenty-five millions of passengers. The under- 
 ground roads have been in existence for more than a 
 quarter of a century, and are found to answer the pur- 
 pose admirably of relieving the over-ground traffic. 
 They are convenient, cheap and comparatively quick, 
 but not always pleasant. 
 
 They now form a network of rails under the surface, 
 and they have been a success from the first. They are 
 a great engineering triumph, and may be said to have 
 marked a new epoch in the history of London. The act 
 permitting the tunneling was passed in 1853. Mr. John 
 Fowler conducted the herculean labor, and underneath 
 the streets of the busiest of cities, down where the soil 
 was honeycombed with other works gas pipes, water 
 mains, drains and sewers a railway line, costing up-
 
 \2 LONDON ON WHEELS, 
 
 wards of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds per 
 mile, was constructed almost without the knowledge of 
 those above. For three years from the spring of 1 860 
 to the beginning of 1863 two thousand men, two hun- 
 dred horses and fifty-eight engines were employed. 
 When completed another difficulty presented itself, but 
 was overcome by Mr. Fowler, who invented a locomotive 
 which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary 
 engine, but which, while in the tunnel, emits neither 
 steam nor smoke, being so constructed as to be able to 
 condense the one and consume the other. 
 
 And yet, after a long ride in the under-ground, you 
 may emerge with a headache. 
 
 Of course the cars have to be lighted artificially, and 
 they had not learned to use the electric light in them 
 when I last was in London, in October, 1892. Gas is a 
 poor substitute in such a place. You are forced to read 
 your newspaper in a dim light, and the gas consumes 
 much of the oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the 
 stations, and from openings en route, which are made 
 for the purpose. 
 
 Yet you do not get about as quickly in the under- 
 ground as you would imagine. To avoid obstructions, 
 and for mechanical reasons, the road takes a circuitous 
 route and you frequently must ride a long way around 
 to go a comparatively short distance. 
 
 Millions of Londoners, who go direct from home to 
 business, seldom get into an under-ground train. There 
 are many over-ground lines built on brick arches which 
 go to the suburbs, where rents are low ; for every En- 
 glishman must have his own house, no matter how 
 small, which he regards as his ' ' castle. " These trains 
 are quick and cheap, and you are blessed with ample 
 light and good air at least as good as you can get in 
 foggy, smoky London. 
 
 On nearly all roads, whether on trunk lines, over- 
 ground or underground lines, there are first, second and
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 13 
 
 third-class cars, or " carriages," as they call them. Even 
 some omnibuses that ply from the trunk line stations 
 also have compartments for different classes ; your 
 Englishman is very particular with whom he rides. 
 
 Occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in 
 third-class carriages of local or suburban lines, but on 
 through trains, say between Liverpool and London, the 
 third-class carriages are comfortable, and the travelers 
 of a respectable class. 
 
 There is a great difference in the rates, and on a long 
 journey it is worth consideration. First-class fare is 
 almost double that of third-class. Second-class is neither 
 one thing nor the other, and on some lines it has been 
 abolished. 
 
 It is an old saying that only princes, Americans and 
 fools travel first-class. I don't care under which head 
 they place me, so long as they place me in a first-class 
 "carriage." That it is more comfortable is incontro- 
 vertible, if you'll pardon such a big word. I say this in 
 the face of what John Stuart Mill said, that the only 
 reason he rode third-class was because there was no 
 fourth. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIXES UNDER GROUND. 
 
 The Forum in 1891 printed a very good description 
 from the pen of Simon Sterne, of the new electric under- 
 ground railway in London, and the Sunday Sun soon 
 after had an elaborate article on the subject, which, 
 with illustrations, occupied nearly a whole page. 
 
 It is a quick and convenient means of locomotion, and 
 to accomplish it was a work of wonderful engineering 
 skill for which the inventor, Mr. Peter Greathead, can- 
 not be praised too highly ; but the riding is by no 
 means pleasant.
 
 14 LONDON ON WHEELS, 
 
 In a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passen- 
 gers, you descend a distance of eighty feet below the 
 surface part of the road running beneath the bed of 
 the river Thames. The cars are small and fairly well 
 lighted, but they have an unpleasant vibration, and 
 although the air is not noticeably impure, there is an 
 uncanny feeling with the knowledge that you are bur- 
 rowing, as it were, in the bowels of the earth. 
 
 The road, probably an experimental one, is only 
 three miles long, extending s6uth from ' ' the monu- 
 ment," in the city. It has not, thus far, proved a 
 success pecuniarily, the cost of construction being so 
 great, although no land was purchased except for the 
 stations. 
 
 HANSOMS AND FOUR-WHEELERS. 
 
 Street cars are not needed in the city. Nearly all Lon- 
 don streets are in as good condition for driving as our 
 Central Park roads. There are eight thousand hansoms, 
 four thousand four-wheelers, and two thousand omni- 
 buses, so that you are not obliged to walk on account of 
 the absence of cars. The four-wheeled cabs, or " growl- 
 ers," as they term them, are dilapidated, uncomfortable 
 vehicles, which lack new springs, and are dirty both inside 
 and out. The horses and the drivers are old and super- 
 annuated ; they have all seen better days in private 
 carriages or hansom cabs. You never take a four- 
 wheeler if you are alone, or if the party consists of only 
 two persons. You must engage one if you have a 
 trunk, but if you are going to catch a train or boat you 
 had better allow a half hour's margin. 
 
 The London cab service is the best and cheapest in 
 the world. I say this, notwithstanding that I remember 
 hiring a cab in Key West, in the Gulf of Mexico, for a
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 15 
 
 dime. But such cabs and such horses ! The rate in a 
 hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons, no 
 fare less than one shilling (twenty-five cents) ; by the 
 hour, two-and-six (sixty-two cents). 
 
 HOW THEY DRIVE. 
 
 England, Italy and Gibraltar are the only places I 
 know of where they drive to the left. English drivers 
 say that by sitting on the right and driving to the left, 
 they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels, 
 and thus prevent collisions. This left-hand driving 
 many years ago educed the subjoined doggerel from a 
 London poetaster : 
 
 The rule of the road 
 
 Is a paradox quite : 
 If you keep to the left 
 
 You are sure to be right. 
 
 Several thousand members of the Metropolitan police 
 force are engaged solely in attending to street traffic. 
 Yet with all their vigilance, more accidents occur in Lon- 
 don, proportionately, than elsewhere. London drivers 
 are polite and very civil to each other. If an obstruc- 
 tion appears in front of a horse, or if for any reason he 
 is obliged suddenly to slow up, the driver will imme- 
 diately notify the driver in the rear by holding out hori- 
 zontally his left arm ; and this sign is passed down from 
 one driver to another, until the very end of the line of 
 blocked vehicles is reached. 
 
 A popular style of hansom has thick rubber tires, 
 which add considerably to ease and comfort in riding. 
 So little noise does the vehicle make in going over Lon- 
 don's smooth-paved streets, that these cabs are provided 
 with bells to warn pedestrians of their approach. The 
 interior fittings include a holder for lighted cigars, a
 
 16 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 box of matches, a small, bevelled mirror on either side 
 of the cab, and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a 
 rubber tube with a whistle at the end. You lightly 
 press the bulb, and in this way whistle to Cabbie on 
 top, who hears the summons above the roar of the 
 streets, and responds by opening his trap door in the 
 roof to receive instructions. 
 
 The law does not permit the drivers of these well-ap- 
 pointed and rather luxurious vehicles to charge more 
 than do the drivers of the ordinary cabs ; but as the 
 new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire, and as they 
 are so much superior to the old style, you do not be- 
 grudge paying a trifle extra. The drivers pay for these 
 improved hansoms sixteen shillings (four dollars) per 
 day, except during "the season," when the owners 
 exact a guinea per day, about five dollars. 
 
 The speed with which the London cabs are driven is 
 something alarming alarming to a stranger. In New 
 York a cab driver has some little regard for the lives 
 and limbs of pedestrians ; in Paris the horses are so 
 poor and^skeleton-like, and go so slow, that pedestrians 
 have no fear whatever ; but in London you must look 
 out wholly for yourself ; Cabbie will certainly not look 
 out for you. If he is engaged by the course, he only 
 has his destination in mind. London cab horses are the 
 best horses in the world used for such a purpose. With 
 rubber tires to the wheels, and the wheels going over 
 clean and perfectly smooth roadways, there is nothing 
 to obstruct their speed, and the animals go like the 
 wind. They and their drivers seem to stand in fear of 
 nothing but a policeman, and as London has good laws 
 for regulating vehicles, and as these laws are strictly 
 obeyed, the mere warning look of a policeman is re- 
 spected and obeyed. 
 
 London drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered 
 as New York drivers. They do not, as a rule, curse or 
 swear at each other as ours do, who are always ready
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS, ' 17 
 
 with a foul oath. When a "block" occurs they take it 
 good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the 
 police as quickly as possible. Our drivers are only 
 satisfied when they can take a mean advantage of their 
 fellows, get in their way and put them to inconvenience. 
 It may be Yankee " goaheadativeness, " or the spirit of 
 freedom and independence which prompts this show of 
 ill-temper, but for my part I prefer the laughing, jocu- 
 lar, good-tempered London driver. 
 
 On my last visit to London, where I stayed one month, 
 I saw a great many "blocks," but heard only one 
 quarrel between drivers, and that was not at all serious. 
 They will, however, chaff each other, saying something 
 like this: "Oh, come, pull yourself together there;" 
 or." I say, country, why don't you learn to drive before 
 you come up to London?" The term "up to London," 
 by the way, is put to singular use there. Although 
 London is in the south of England, you always go "up 
 to London," if you even go from Carlisle, which is in the 
 extreme north, on the Scotch border. 
 
 STREET CARS. 
 
 There are no street cars run by the trolley, storage or 
 any other electric system ; no cable cars, no horse cars ; 
 not a track is laid for a surface road in "the city " proper. 
 Many Americans leave London without ever seeing a 
 street car of any kind, and yet in the metropolis one 
 thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and 
 twenty miles of track, but they are not permitted in 
 crowded thoroughfares ; they are confined to the out- 
 lying districts. I have only seen them in the east end, 
 in the district known as "The Boro' " and near the 
 Victoria Station. The street cars are ' ' double deckers " 
 and, like the 'buses, they carry more outside than inside
 
 18 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 passengers, but the number of passengers is limited. 
 When the car has reached its limit it will take up no 
 more passengers. Every passenger has the right to a 
 seat, and, to use a paradoxical phrase, every English- 
 man stands up for his right to a seat. 
 
 OMNIBUSES. 
 
 The two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or 
 nine thousand horses. The number of miles run annu- 
 ally by the omnibuses is five and a half millions, and 
 the number of passengers carried not less than forty- 
 eight millions. 
 
 Such a heavy, slow-going, cumbersome vehicle as 
 the London omnibus could not be used on our rough- 
 and-tumble roads. It is poorly ventilated, if you can 
 call it ventilated, for the windows are closed and are 
 immovable. The only means of ventilation is by the 
 door, in the rear, near which everybody tries to get. 
 As fast as the choice seats near the door are vacated, 
 they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers, and 
 the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place, 
 which is nearest the front. But in fine weather a man 
 never gets inside while there is a vacant seat on top, 
 and it is no strange sight to see women occupying out- 
 side seats to escape the stifling air inside. 
 
 Nor does wet weather deter an Englishman from tak- 
 ing an open air seat. Most Englishmen wear a ' ' mackin- 
 tosh " in threatening weather and there's a great deal 
 of such weather in London. To every seat on the top 
 of a 'bus there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron 
 to protect the knees, and with an umbrella, which is 
 always part of an Englishman's costume, they manage 
 to keep perfectly dry.
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 19 
 
 The omnibuses are so freely used for advertising pur- 
 poses, the outside is so nearly covered with attractive 
 and gaudy signs of business houses that it is exceedingly 
 difficult to read or discover the route or destination of 
 the vehicle. You may be looking for Blackwall or 
 Putney, but you will read "Pears' Soap," "Nestle's 
 Food," or " Mappin & Webb's Razors." 
 
 The 'buses do not confine themselves .to the middle of 
 the roadway and allow passengers to pick and fight 
 their way through a crowd of vehicles, New York-like ; 
 they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to enter .or 
 leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble. 
 Conductors will also leave their perch, approach the 
 sidewalk (Anglice, pavement) to consult or advise with 
 a prospective passenger who is in doubt as to which 
 "bus he should take. Time seems of no importance : 
 they are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we 
 are. Whether from the excessive competition or from 
 some other cause I know not : I do know that public 
 servants in England are much more civil and polite than 
 they are in this " free " country. 
 
 There are rules which control London omnibuses, 
 and these it is the duty of the police to strictly enforce. 
 A 'bus is licensed and allowed to carry only so many 
 passengers, and this license or limit must be posted on a 
 conspicuous part of the vehicle. The majority are 
 ' ' licensed to carry twenty-six passengers ; twelve inside 
 and fourteen outside. " 
 
 In 1890 the London police force numbered thirteen 
 thousand eight hundred and fifty-five men, not counting 
 the nine hundred and two officers who form a special 
 organization in what is termed "the city." A consider- 
 able part of the time and attention of the police is de- 
 voted to governing street traffic. Policemen will watch 
 and follow a 'bus for several blocks if they think it 
 contains more passengers than the law allows. When 
 they are assured that this is the case they go to a magis-
 
 20 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 trate and lay a complaint, and then woe betide the 
 poor driver or conductor who disregarded the law. 
 
 The 'buses make special stops at certain points of 
 their route and these seem very long and prove tedi- 
 ous to one who is in a hurry ; but if your time is 
 valuable you would never take a 'bus. They are 
 not allowed to stop when near or nearing these special 
 stopping-places, not even if a passenger expresses a 
 desire to alight. I remember once, simply for informa- 
 tion, asking the driver to stop in the middle of Trafalgar 
 square, just as we were passing Nelson's monument, on 
 the way to the Strand, cityward. "Well," said the 
 polite but uneducated Jehu, "you earn 't expect me to 
 get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare, can you ?" 
 meaning that if he pulled up where I indicated he would 
 be summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigi- 
 lant "bobby" and be obliged to pay four shillings for 
 accommodating me. 
 
 In American street cars or omnibuses excepting, as 
 I remember in San Jose, California, a passenger who 
 rides only a few blocks helps to pay the fare of the 
 man who rides the full length of the road, for the 
 charge to both is the same. It is not so (mis) managed 
 in England. The charge there is by distance, about 
 one penny (two cents) a mile and you pay according to 
 the distance you ride. There are two or three lines of 
 omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny (one cent). 
 One line runs between Westminster bridge and Trafal- 
 gar square. They pick up no passengers between the 
 two points. They each carry only twelve passengers ; 
 there are no outside seats. 
 
 There is a great deal of pilfering going on among 
 omnibus conductors, and drivers also, for they divide 
 the spoils ; and the company winks at it, knowing that 
 the pay of these men is not large. The company is 
 satisfied if it receives a fair average return, but in this 
 way it. puts a premium on dishonesty. There is no check
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 21 
 
 against the conductors no mechanical contrivance to 
 record fares. They are supposed to enter every fare 
 and the exact amount they receive from each passenger 
 on a paper slip placed in a frame, the frame being fast- 
 ened to the inside of the omnibus door, but it is only a 
 supposition. Passengers are requested to see that the 
 amount paid is properly entered, but the request is 
 wholly unheeded. It is, to say the least, a very careless 
 way of keeping accounts, and invites dishonesty. On 
 most lines they use tickets showing the amount each 
 passenger pays, but the conductor sometimes forgets 
 to hand you a ticket. An Inspector will occasionally 
 mount a 'bus to see that all the passengers are supplied 
 with tickets, and then the conductor with a treacherous 
 memory has reason to be sorry. Drivers are paid eight 
 shillings, conductors six shillings, per day, for fifteen 
 hours' work. 
 
 ON THE TOP OF A 'BUS. 
 
 The driver is generally a jolly, red-faced fellow and 
 very smartly dressed, especially on Sunday. He then 
 always wears a " top hat : " in winter it is of black silk, 
 in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide mourning band 
 to set it off. His coat is often a double-breasted drab 
 cassimere, and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a 
 large and loud nose-gay. A showy scarf and a pair of 
 heavy, tan-colored driving gloves complete his costume. 
 He makes quite a picture as he sits on the box, with a 
 leather strap across his waist which holds him securely 
 in his seat, and a black leather apron to protect the 
 lower part of his body from wind and rain. He carries 
 a showy whip with a very long and loose thong, with 
 the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of 
 his leader.
 
 22 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 The 'bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty. 
 He comforts himself with a briarwood pipe unless a 
 generous passenger treats him to a cigar, for he is not 
 above accepting a small present. 
 
 Leopold Rothschild, who lives on a street through 
 which omnibuses pass, has taken a great fancy to these 
 men and in the autumn he presents a pair of pheasants 
 to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his 
 door. 
 
 Everybody who has visited London knows that the 
 best way of seeing the city is from the top of a 'bus. 
 Get a front seat, next to the driver, hand him a tip in 
 the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions. 
 You will find that he is intelligent, well-informed on 
 every-day subjects, quick-witted and a judge of human 
 nature. 
 
 I had a very interesting ride last summer on the top 
 of a "Kilburn" 'bus. Some of them start from Vic- 
 toria station, and run northwest to Kilburn, through 
 some very beautiful thoroughfares, in which reside many 
 titled people and some prominent members of London 
 society. 
 
 In Grosvenor place, soon after starting from the sta- 
 tion, the driver will point out, for instance, the residences 
 of the Dukes.of Northumberland, Grafton and Portland ; 
 that of the Earl of Scarborough, at No. i Grosvenor 
 place ; the Dowager Lady de Rothschild ; Sir Edward 
 Cecil Guinness ; that of the late Right Hon. William H. 
 Smith ; also the homes of a number of members of par- 
 liament, more or less well-known. 
 
 The 'bus goes a short distance through Piccadilly and 
 passes the residences of Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, 
 Lord Rothschild, the Duke of Wellington and the Duke 
 , of Hamilton, in Hamilton place. 
 
 . .Then it turns into one of London's most aristocratic 
 , ^s.treets,, ;Park Lane (alongside Hyde Park), where reside 
 ( tjie. Duchess of Somerset, the Marquis. of,, Londonderry,
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 23 
 
 Lord Brassey, Alfred Rothschild, Lord Dudley, the 
 Countess of Dudley, Lord Grosvenor, cousin to the 
 Duke of Westminster, and the Duke of Westminster 
 himself. Kilburn tmses also start from Charing 
 Cross, in Duncannon Street, opposite the Charing Cross 
 Hotel. 
 
 A tms marked "Hammersmith" will take you west- 
 ward, through Piccadilly, past the clubs, the parks, 
 some stylish shops, and fashionable residences. You 
 will see St. James's Palace and historic Addison Road, 
 en route, and you can ride across Hammersmith Bridge. 
 You can also go to Kew Gardens and to the famous 
 " Star and Garter," at Richmond, by 'bus. 
 
 Here's another very interesting ride. If you are at 
 Oxford Circus you will see omnibuses with the horses' 
 heads turned eastward, and you will hear the Cockney 
 conductor calling out " Benk, benk, Charing Cross, 
 benk." Take a ride with him. The vehicle goes 
 through Regent street, Trafalgar Square, the Strand, 
 Fleet street, then down Cheapside (which is anything 
 but cheap), and Cornhill, where there is neither corn 
 nor hill. At the end of Cornhill you see the most 
 crowded and bustling crush of vehicles you ever saw in 
 your life. To the right is the Mansion House (correspond- 
 ing with our City Hall); a little further on "The Monu- 
 ment," with its gold torch at top, looms up; immediately 
 in front is The Royal Exchange, with its Peabody statue, 
 while to the left stands the demure Bank of England, as 
 solid from a financial point of view as it is architecturally. 
 On this route you pass and have in view The National 
 Gallery, Landseer's lions, several famous hotels and 
 theatres, the Law Courts, Temple Bar, the principal 
 newspaper establishments, and St. Paul's Church. The 
 same 'bus, if you wish to pursue your journey eastward, 
 will take you through Leadenhall street and into the 
 very heart of Whitechapel even to Blackwall and the 
 docks, if your taste lies in that direction.
 
 24 LONDON ON WHEELS. 
 
 There is no better way of seeing London than from 
 the top of a 'bus if you get a seat next to an old and 
 wide-awake driver, : and the cost is but a few pennies. 
 There are one hundred and forty different routes in the 
 whole city to choose from. 
 
 THE CITY TRAFFIC. 
 
 One of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street 
 called "the Strand," where it is crossed by Wellington 
 street. You drive north, through Wellington street, 
 past the Lyceum Theatre to get to Holborn, Covent 
 Garden Market and elsewhere ; southward there is 
 great traffic over Waterloo Bridge, leading to the Sur- 
 rey side of London, while from the east and west come 
 continuous streams of omnibuses, cabs, carriages and 
 heavy wagons and freight trucks. Policemen stand in 
 the middle of the roadway and regulate this enormous 
 traffic by merely raising a white-cotton-gloved hand. 
 They are calm and immovable, and seem to pay not the 
 slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded 
 crush of vehicles about them. All come to a standstill 
 before the stiff and fearless " bobby." When by wav- 
 ing his hand he directs that a certain stream of vehicles 
 may proceed this way or that, it proceeds, but not until 
 he gives permission. 
 
 London Bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare 
 in the world. More vehicles and foot passengers cross 
 it than pass through any other street, and special pro- 
 vision is made for vehicular traffic. In New York, for 
 instance, a heavily laden four-house truck or wagon 
 may block Broadway for a great distance. If you are 
 behind it in a phaeton or light carriage, you must wait 
 till the driver in front of you, who may be sullen and 
 obstinate, leisurely moves out of the way. No matter
 
 LONDON ON WHEELS. 25 
 
 in how much haste you are you may be trying to catch 
 a train or an ocean steamer you must wait. Not so in 
 London's most crowded streets. On London Bridge, for 
 instance, slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must 
 keep to the side near the curb and pavement, while car- 
 riages, cabs and light vehicles are allowed the middle 
 of the roadway for quick movement. That part of the 
 roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface, 
 and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for 
 the outer wheel of heavy wagons this only on London 
 Bridge and in a few other very busy thoroughfares. 
 It is a capital plan, and gives satisfaction to all con- 
 cerned. 
 
 ADVICE FROM CHARLES DICKENS. 
 
 But in such a vast city, with such enormous traffic, 
 nothing can prevent great loss of life and accidents in- 
 numerable from crossing the streets. The point men- 
 tioned above is only one of the busy parts of one street 
 the Strand from another point, down by the Law Courts 
 and Temple Bar, it is said that two hundred more or 
 less mangled bodies are sent to the Charing Cross Hos- 
 pital every year. 
 
 The present Charles Dickens, in his " Dictionary of 
 London," thinks it worth while to suggest that the only 
 way to go from curb to curb is to make up your mind 
 what course you will take, and then stick to it. London 
 cabbies will thus divine your intentions. To change 
 your mind while crossing is to confuse the cabmen, and 
 cause you (so Dickens suggests) to make your return 
 journey to America in the form of freight. 
 
 As all vehicles in London are driven to the left, keep 
 to the left curb. I found this suggestion of Oakey 
 Hall's valuable: "As you leave a curb, look to the 
 right ; as you approach a curb, look to the left. "
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 Until the year 1880 there was* only one hotel in London 
 that came up to the expectations of American travelers, 
 which compared in size and appointments with Ameri- 
 can hotels of the first-class. This was the Langham 
 Hotel in Portland place. When the Langham was built, 
 nearly thirty years ago, and for several subsequent years, 
 as the writer can attest, for he was a guest there in 1871, 
 and has been a frequent visitor there since, the Lang- 
 ham was large enough to accommodate all American 
 tourists in London. 
 
 This, however, has been greatly changed. Americans 
 at that time merely passed through London ; they took it 
 as a sort of stepping-stone en route for Paris. In the days 
 of the Second Empire, when Louis Napoleon wielded 
 the sceptre, and Eugenie set the fashions for the civil- 
 ized world, Americans flocked to Paris like so many 
 sheep. Then it was said : " See Paris and die." With 
 the downfall of the empire and its accompanying glories 
 our compatriots found Paris less attractive, and they 
 discovered what everybody knows that London is, 
 in many respects, the most interesting city in the 
 world. A presentation to Her Majesty, and hob-nob- 
 bing with the Prince of Wales, are the things now most 
 desired, and to be in the very height of fashion, one 
 must hire a London house for " the season," May, June 
 and July.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 27 
 
 - ' - ' ' : < ,I1'/ 
 
 . 
 
 THE LANGHAM HOTEL. 
 
 But this is a digression. The ground, the structure 
 and the furnishing of the Langham Hotel, which was 
 formally opened by the Prince of Wales in June, 1865, 
 cost a million and a half dollars, and it was a wonder 
 and a revelation to the English people. Its noble granite 
 front of two hundred and twelve feet, its dining hall, 
 forty-seven by one hundred and twenty feet 1 ; 'its music 
 room, drawing-room, and its public rooms generally, 
 were on such a grand scale that Londoners opened wide 
 their eyes in astonishment and admiration. The Lang- 
 ham, by liberal outlay of money and constant improve- 
 ment," keeps up with the times, and notwithstanding that ' .' 
 many splendid establishments have been erected within 
 the last decade, it retains its place in the very front 
 rank. People who have not seen the interior of the 
 Langham Hotel, London, since 1890, will notice some 
 changes and marked improvements. Heretofore the 
 dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark 
 and roundabout way, near the drawing-room ; now _it is 
 approached from " the office " direct, through a wide and 
 handsome " vestibule," which is flooded with light and 
 richly furnished, making an appropriate entrance to the , 
 beautiful dining-room. The drawing-room, which, for 
 its size, its pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one 
 of the most attractive salons in England, has also been 
 greatly improved. 
 
 Colonel Sanderson, its first manager, an American, died 
 many years ago. He was brother to Harry Sanderson, 
 famous in his day in New York as a pianist. But English 
 capitalists and business men are not given to making 
 changes, and so we find that Mr. Walter Gosden, who 
 was in the service of the Langham under Mr. Sander- 
 son's management, has been for many years and is now 
 the manager of the hotel. You can get a nice room with
 
 28 L&NDON HOTELS. 
 
 beautiful outlook, and a very good breakfast here for 
 less than two dollars a day. This estimate includes the 
 charge for attendance. Address, Walter Gosden, Port- 
 land place, Regent street, W. 
 
 THE GRAND. 
 
 During the past twelve years, however, many superb 
 buildings for hotel purposes have been erected in the 
 English metropolis. Among the largest and most popu- 
 lar are the three grouped together, as it were, in one 
 short street, Northumberland avenue, which, only two 
 blocks long, extends in a southerly direction from Tra- 
 falgar square to the banks of the Thames. These are 
 the Grand, the Metropole and the Victoria, to name 
 them in the order they were erected. So popular has 
 this cluster of hotels become, and so many well-to-do 
 Americans do they attract, that property in the neigh- 
 borhood has largely increased in value, and the trades- 
 people blame the "Yankees" for the increased rents 
 they have to pay, never speaking of the increased pa- 
 tronage which they enjoy from these same "Yankees.", 
 
 The features of the Grand Hotel, the longest estab- 
 lished of these three, are well-known, but former pa- 
 trons will scarcely recognize the reception-room, which, 
 with its new, solid-looking furniture and rich, dark dec- 
 orations, is now one of the most attractive apartments 
 of its kind to be seen, even in these days of the uphol- 
 sterer and decorator. While artistic and costly, it has 
 an air of utility and comfort which you will not find very 
 often repeated. The drawing-room of the Grand was 
 being "done up" during last winter, and "it is now 
 just as handsome as the reception-^oom. " Cable, 
 Granotel, London.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 29 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE. 
 
 To American visitors in London the Metropole is 
 one of the most attractive of the more recently built 
 hotels. Situated in Northumberland Avenue, and being 
 replete with the latest conveniences, no hotel in the 
 metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was 
 first evolved in the United States of the model modern 
 caravansary. To dwell upon the subject of the gene- 
 ral characteristics of the Hotel Metropole would be 
 superfluous ; they and it are too well known to Ameri- 
 cans who have visited London, but a short description 
 of the celebrated " grand salon " of the Metropole, as it 
 has lately been refitted and decorated, will be read with 
 interest. 
 
 The scheme of adornment is most tasteful, and per- 
 fectly and harmoniously carried out in all details. Two 
 shades of maroon in contrast with white and gold are 
 the leading features of the ensemble, and the general 
 effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and 
 pleasing. The wall space between the lofty windows 
 and the immense mirrors is covered with stamped 
 Utrecht velvet of a soft, natural tint and richness of 
 design. The pillars are painted in maroon, with gilt 
 capitals, an arrangement of color which is at once novel 
 and agreeable to the eye. The patterns on the flutings 
 of the beams which support the roof are picked out in 
 gold on a white ground. 
 
 The roof panels are covered with dull gold of a pecu- 
 liarly restful tint, and the design introduced in various 
 portions of the general decoration have an unusually 
 aesthetic character. The electric lights, of which there 
 are a considerable number, are surrounded by cut crys- 
 tal pendants and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the 
 illumination. In the center of the room is a palm, the 
 leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in circumfer-
 
 30 LONDON HOTELS, 
 
 ence. It towers toward the ceiling, and for grace and 
 beauty is not easily equalled in Florida, nor greatly 
 excelled even in California. Tree palms are placed at 
 intervals throughout the spacious room, producing a 
 pleasing effect of verdure, and each of the separate 
 tables is adorned with flowers; while the rich candela- 
 bra, with handsome shades placed upon each table, 
 afford the subdued light which is preferable to the 
 cruder glare of the former style of lighting. The gen- 
 eral coup d'ceil in the grand salon is singularly graceful 
 and attractive. 
 
 A large number of public and private banquets take' 
 place at the Hotel Metropole, this being one of the 
 recognized resorts for ceremonies of that description. 
 
 At the Metropole the "show" apartments are known 
 as the Eugenie and Marie Antoinette suites, and they 
 have afforded many a descriptive writer material for an 
 article. Probably no hotel sleeping chambers equal 
 these for rich and costly decoration for the laces, the 
 frescoes and luxurious furniture. The reader will know 
 that ample means were at command when told that in 
 the selection of site, in constructing and furnishing the 
 Metropole, half a million sterling (two and a half mil- 
 lion dollars) were expended. And such a success has 
 the Metropole proved that the company were encour- 
 aged to invest further in hotel property with the result 
 that they now own and control three hotels of the first 
 class in London, also five other hotels in different parts of 
 Europe. Among these are the Metropole at Monte Carlo, 
 the Metropole at Cannes, and the Metropole at Brighton, 
 the last named being the latest hotel erected by this com- 
 pany, and one which will compare in many respects with 
 the most renowned hotels of the world. Rooms at the 
 London Metropole from three shillings and sixpence to 
 one pound per day , breakfast from two-and-six-pence to 
 four shillings ; table d'hote luncheon, three-and-six ; 
 table d'hote dinner, five shillings one dollar and a half.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 81 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 The latest constructed of these three hotels is the 
 Hotel Victoria. Printed words cannot easily convey to 
 the mind an adequate idea of the magnificence of this 
 structure. The public rooms of the Victoria are palatial 
 in their proportions and appointments, the grand stair- 
 case is a marvel of beauty, and the sleeping rooms con- 
 tain all the conveniences and contrivances found in 
 modern hotels of the highest class. Besides the com- 
 forts characteristic of an English house, and the luxurious 
 cuisine of a continental hotel, the attention and the dis- 
 cipline which rule at the Victoria remind one of an 
 American hotel. 
 
 You need have no fear that the cards of friends call- 
 ing will not be promptly sent to you : nor is there any 
 delay here about the delivery of telegrams, letters and 
 packages. Letters are placed in your box up to a cer- 
 tain hour of the evening, after that hour they are sent 
 to your room. There is a package-room, also a ' ' pack- 
 age clerk," who receives all bundles, signs therefor, and 
 enters the same in a book, so that it may be known 
 immediately if a package has been received for a guest. 
 
 If a telegram or a card from a caller is received and 
 the key to your room is not in its box, thus indicating 
 that you are in your room, or at least in the house, a 
 servant is immediately dispatched to your room, while 
 a little page in livery is started off through all the halls 
 and public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room 
 number in this fashion, ' ' Number 630, please. " If you 
 are anywhere under the roof you are sure to be found 
 by this excellent method. 
 
 A feature of the Hotel Victoria is a corps of valets. 
 There are seven floors in the building, each accommo- 
 dating about sixty or seventy guests, and to each floor a 
 valet is assigned who performs all the ordinary duties 
 of such a servant, Shoes are not carried down below to
 
 32 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 be mixed and confused with hundreds of others, but are 
 polished by the valet on your floor. The valet also 
 enters your room during your absence, removes all the 
 clothes he finds hanging or lying about, brushes and 
 folds the same and puts them back neatly. It is a con- 
 venience, returning to your hotel late in the evening 
 and in haste to dress for dinner or the theatre, to find 
 your evening suit nicely folded and brushed, ready to 
 put on. These and other provisions for the comfort of 
 guests indicate the general care in management and the 
 close attention to detail which obtain at the Victoria, 
 and which have given it its wide reputation. The ap- 
 pointments include a billiard-room with five full-sized 
 tables. Good rooms on fifth floor, a dollar and a half a 
 day. This includes attendance and lights. Breakfast 
 from two shillings to three-and-six ; table d'hote lunch- 
 eon about the same ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and 
 a quarter. Manager, G. Reeves-Smith. Cable and 
 telegraphic address, Victoriola, London. 
 
 LONG'S HOTEL. 
 
 There is another trio of London hotel's that may be 
 grouped* together, on account of their proximity the 
 Hotel Albemarle (Albemarle street and Piccadilly), 
 Long's hotel (New Bond street), and the Hotel Bristol 
 (Burlington Gardens, between Bond and Regent streets). 
 The last two are but a few yards apart. They are all 
 comparatively new buildings, and new also in name and 
 history, except Long's, which was erected on the ground 
 where the first Long's stood for two hundred years. 
 Long's, though not of great capacity, has a larger num- 
 ber of richly furnished bedrooms than the Ponce de 
 Leon, in St. Augustine, Fla. For the beauty of the ex- 
 terior and the magnificent surroundings of the Ponce de 
 Leon, as well as for the Oriental splendor of its public
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 33 
 
 rooms, no words of praise can be too lavish. But the 
 two hotels, "the Ponce" and Long's, cannot be com- 
 pared ; their characteristics are so different. One is like 
 a royal palace in the country, the other resembles a 
 gentleman's quiet, city home. Long's differs from every 
 other hotel I have seen in this respect, that all of its 
 bedrooms have rich hangings, and the walls of each are 
 decorated with works of art. The apartments are not 
 cold and bare, as are the bedrooms of most hotels ; they 
 suggest home-like comforts, and are furnished in the 
 best taste. The walls of the dining-room at Long's are 
 hung with Gobelin tapestry, and on the whole it may be 
 called a beautifully appointed hotel. A. Hartmann, 
 manager. 
 
 THE BRISTOL. 
 
 They have some very attractive hotels in Boston ; the 
 Brunswick, for example, and everybody has heard of 
 the beautiful Spanish hotels in St. Augustine, and the 
 great Auditorium in Chicago. I have lived at all these 
 houses, also at the Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, 
 and at California's other famous house, the Hotel del 
 Monte, at Monterey, with its 126 acres for a garden. 
 There are few or none that are more gorgeous than 
 these, and they always come to one's memory when dis- 
 cussing the best hotels, but certainly New York City 
 cannot boast of a hotel interior that equals in tasteful 
 decorations those of the Bristol in London. It is a gem 
 in its way. 
 
 A veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of 
 the Bristol. It is minus the onyx tables and costly 
 paintings you see at the Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine, 
 and the " gold " chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many 
 American hotels : everything in this room at the Bristol,
 
 34 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 from the soft carpet on the floor to the decoration on the 
 ceiling, is rich, but also quiet in tone soothing and har- 
 monious. The Royal Academy, the Burlington Arcade 
 (a fashionable shopping street) and Piccadilly are all 
 within a few hundred feet of the Bristol. The Bristol is 
 patronized by such well-known New Yorkers as the 
 Vanderbilts, the Twomblys and the owner of the New 
 York World, and also by princes of the old world and 
 those of blue blood from everywhere. It is nothing if 
 not elegant and aristocratic. 7 In the summer of 1892, 
 during my visit to the Bristol, among the titled guests 
 occupying suites of apartments there was the Due d' 
 Alba, brother to the King of Italy. Telegraph or write 
 to the Bristol Hotel, Burlington Gardens, London, W. 
 
 THE HOTEL ALBEMARLE. 
 
 Although rebuilt and opened as recently as the begin- 
 ning of 1890, the Hotel Albemarle has already gained a 
 position and reputation as one of the most select and 
 fashionable hotels in London. Its situation, to begin 
 with, has undoubtedly had much to do with its imme- 
 diate success. It conspicuously fronts the north end of 
 the celebrated thoroughfare, St. James's street, in the 
 centre of the court quarter of London, and stands at the 
 corner of Albemarle street and Piccadilly. No better 
 location for a hotel, destined to be at once aristocratic 
 and accessible to the traveling public, could have been 
 selected. Towering high above the surrounding build- 
 ings, the Albemarle, with its double fagade, seventy-five 
 feet on Piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street 
 from which it takes its name, cannot fail to attract obser- 
 vation. It is built of terra cotta in the Francis I. style 
 of architecture, and the general effect is both graceful 
 and imposing.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 35 
 
 The main entrance is in Albemarle street. The in- 
 terior of the hotel is furnished and decorated in a 
 variety of styles of the Renaissance period. The furni- 
 ture and decoration of the dining-room, ladies' drawing- 
 room on the ground floor, the fitting and decoration of 
 the hall and staircase, are treated in the style of Francis 
 I. The style of Henri II. has been adopted for the 
 first and second floors ; the third floor is in the style of 
 Louis XV., and the fourth in that of Louis XIV. 
 Special mention must be made of the "Rubens Room," 
 furnished and decorated effectively in the Louis XV. 
 style. This apartment derives its name from a fine 
 painting which adorns the ceiling, and which is believed 
 to be from the brush, either of Rubens himself or of 
 one of his pupils. 
 
 The furnishing, fitting and decorating of the Hotel 
 Albemarle were effected by the well-known London 
 firm of Shoolbred, after designs from a famous French 
 artist. The building being of such recent erection, it is 
 scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern im- 
 provements has been neglected in its construction. 
 The most careful attention has been paid to sanitary 
 arrangements, and the hotel is lighted throughout by 
 electricity. In the two years which have elapsed since 
 it was opened, it has quickly become renowned for the 
 excellence of its cuisine and service. Its wine cellar is 
 one of the choicest in London. 
 
 Royalty, the nobility, and visitors of the highest 
 fashion patronize the Hotel Albemarle. During the 
 London season, in particular, its rooms are crowded 
 with distinguished guests. To Americans, especially, 
 it should prove a most attractive resort, if only on ac- 
 count of the brilliant and aristocratic neighborhood in 
 which it is situated. St. James's Park, St. James's 
 Palace and Marlborough House are near at hand. 
 Hyde Park, with its "Drive" and "Row," is within 
 five minutes' walk. The Art Galleries, the theatres,
 
 36 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 the Opera House, the Houses of Parliament, the clubs, 
 Westminster Abbey, and several of the principal mu- 
 seums are within the compass of a shilling cab fare. 
 The best and most fashionable shops in London are 
 situated in the near vicinity, in Piccadilly and in Bond 
 and Regent streets, while Oxford street, where many of 
 the cheaper shops are to be found, is but a short dis- 
 tance off in short, it may be said that the Hotel Albe- 
 marle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life 
 and business of London. 
 
 Interest attaches to Albemarle street itself as an his- 
 torical thoroughfare. During the last century it en- 
 joyed peculiar reputation as a place of residence at the 
 west end of the metropolis, and not a little of this old- 
 time prestige clings to it still. The Prince of Wales, 
 afterwards George the Second, once lived in Albemarle 
 street, and when Louis the Eighteenth of France was in 
 England in 1814 he made it his place of stay, and held, 
 at the now defunct " Grillon's Hotel," his receptions of 
 the leaders of the English nobility. The famous pub- 
 lishing house, Murray's, through whose doors have 
 passed such celebrities in the world of letters as Byron, 
 Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Hallam, Tom Moore, Gifford, 
 Lockhart, Washington Irving and many others, is situ- 
 ated immediately opposite the entrance to the Hotel. 
 You would never imagine that it was a publishing house 
 or business house of any kind. It looks like an ordinary 
 private dwelling, and the only sign on the building is 
 one small, dull brass plate on the front wall upon which 
 is engraved ' ' Mr. Murray. " 
 
 The proprietor of the Hotel Albemarle is Mr. A. L. 
 Vogel. He is to be congratulated on the rapid success 
 he has met with in his efforts to establish one of the 
 best of London hotels. Mr. Vogel has purchased the 
 freehold of property adjoining the Albemarle Hotel, 
 and a large addition to the hotel will be erected pres_ 
 eritly, thus affording room for a new salle a manger and 
 some thirty more bedrooms.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 37 
 
 Mr. Vogel issues as a "Guide to London " a compre- 
 hensive and, in its way, a complete little book of fifty 
 pages, illustrated and prettily bound in cloth. It is 
 sent free to any address in the world on application. 
 The hotel accommodates about one hundred guests. 
 Address the Albemarle, Albemarle street, Piccadilly, 
 London. 
 
 THE SAVOY. 
 
 A London hotel that has, so to speak, jumped into 
 popularity is the Savoy Hotel. It is a new house, on 
 the Victoria embankment, with the Strand at its back, 
 the public gardens in front and the Thames at its feet. 
 It lies between Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge, and 
 for a ' ' finger post " it has Cleopatra's needle. There is 
 an entrance for foot passengers from the Strand and a 
 carriage drive from the embankment directly into the 
 courtyard, like that of the Palace Hotel in San Francisco, 
 the Grand Hotel in Paris, and the Grand in Brussels. 
 In fact, the Savoy is more like a continental than an 
 English house, and the owners call it "the Hotel de 
 Luxe of the world." Luxurious in size and appoint- 
 ments, the Savoy certainly is. It is not continental, 
 however, in its system of charges. Nor for that matter 
 is it like any other London hotel, its system being 
 American. In all Parisian hotels candles are a separate 
 charge : in nearly all European hotels attendance is a 
 separate item, and in most hotels in the civilized world 
 you must pay extra for baths. Not so at the Savoy. 
 When you are told the rate for an apartment every- 
 thing is included everything of course but meals 
 bedroom, lights, attendance and baths. There are sixty-
 
 88 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 seven bath rooms in the house, and beneath it there is 
 an artesian well four hundred and twenty feet deep. 
 The boiling water, as well as the cold, like Jacobs's bottle, 
 is inexhaustible, and you can bathe to your heart's con- 
 tent. You can hire a room for two persons for two 
 dollars a day, or you may engage a suite at twenty 
 dollars a day. 
 
 As to table, you may live economically at the Savoy, 
 or you may live like a prince; a rich prince. Here are 
 the definite and fixed rates at the Savoy : bedrooms 
 for one person, from seven and sixpence (nearly two 
 dollars) per day ; for two persons, ten-and-six ; suites 
 of apartments containing sitting-room, bed-room, dress- 
 ing-room and private bath-room, from thirty shillings 
 per day. Breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six ; 
 luncheon, four shillings ; dinner, seven-and-six ; dinner 
 served in private rooms ten-and-six. Guests' servants 
 are boarded at six shillings per day ; price of room 
 according to location. If you want to live in style and 
 enjoy, at its best, life in London, engage a suite at the 
 Savoy, including parlor and bath-room, with private 
 lobby and private balcony overlooking the Thames. It 
 makes no difference what floor you select : there are 
 "lifts" in the house, so large and luxurious as to be 
 justly called "ascending rooms:" they run day and 
 night. The rooms on the top floor are equal in height 
 of ceiling to those on the lower floors, and the furniture 
 is of the same quality throughout the house. General 
 manager, C. Ritz ; acting manager, L. Echenard. 
 
 HOTEL WINDSOR. 
 
 The Hotel Windsor is in Victoria street, only five 
 minutes' walk from Victoria Station, two minutes' walk 
 from the American Legation, a few steps from West-
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 89 
 
 minster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, the Houses of 
 Parliament, St. James's Park and the Home Office. The 
 dining-room of the Windsor is an especially cheerful 
 apartment and it overlooks the pretty garden of a 
 church. The great plate glass windows in this dining- 
 room are larger than the windows in any other hotel, 
 so large that they are only moved up or down by ropes 
 to which handles are attached. They let in plenty of 
 daylight, almost as much as streams freely into the 
 dining-room of the Hotel Pasaje, Havana, which opens 
 on the street, and which is not encumbered with win- 
 dows at all. 
 
 The Hotel Windsor is not only kept by a "proprietor " 
 in the accepted American use of that term, but the 
 furniture, the building and the ground on which it 
 stands are owned in fee ("freehold," as English people 
 call it), by two men, J. R. Cleave and V. D. B. Cooper, 
 the first named being the actual and active manager of 
 the house, who makes it his home, the title of the firm 
 being J. R. Cleave & Co. The premises include fifteen 
 thousand square feet of ground, which, without the im- 
 posing ten-story stone structure upon it, is valued at 
 forty-five thousand pounds sterling not far short of a 
 quarter million dollars. 
 
 The Windsor is fortunate in its location. A shilling 
 cab takes you to any theatre or to the shopping centre, 
 and 'buses pass the door every minute for Charing 
 Cross, Trafalgar square and the Strand. Time, ten 
 minutes ; fare, two cents, inside or out. 
 
 There is a lift at the Windsor of modern style ; the 
 house is lighted by electricity ; there are Turkish and 
 swimming baths on the lower floor ; to avoid disagree- 
 able odors the kitchen is at the top of the house ; the 
 bedrooms are scrupulously clean, the cuisine and wines 
 are of the best quality, and the charges moderate. You 
 can live at the Windsor, if you prefer it, on the Ameri- 
 can plan rate, about four dollars a day. The European
 
 40 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals a 
 delicious lunch for sixty cents : choice service. 
 
 If this is the description of a model hotel, worthy in 
 every respect of the best patronage, " that," as humorist 
 Gilbert says, " is the idea I intended to convey." The 
 Windsor was built about thirteen years ago. Address, J. 
 R. Cleave, manager, Victoria street, Westminster, S. W. 
 
 BAILEY'S HOTEL. 
 
 Americans going to London for business, intent upon 
 shopping, theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing, 
 find hotels in the Strand, or hotels near Trafalgar square, 
 very convenient. Reference is made to the Grand, the 
 Metropole, the Savoy, and the Victoria, in their alpha- 
 betical order. The Langham, in Portland place, and 
 those select houses near Burlington Gardens and Picca- 
 dillyLong's, the Bristol, the Burlington and the Albe- 
 marle, are also central, convenient, and in a fashionable 
 district. 
 
 If, however, a family is going to London for a pro- 
 tracted stay and the desire of their hearts is to be in an 
 ultra-fashionable locality, where the aristocracy reside, 
 and where quiet and selectness reign and salubrity is 
 assured, then Bailey's Hotel, on the corner of Glouces- 
 ter and Cromwell roads, is recommended and recom- 
 mends itself. If you are in haste and do not care for a 
 cab, the "underground " will take you from " the city " 
 or from Charing Cross to Bailey's Hotel in fifteen min- 
 utes, fare five cents, third class ; fifteen cents in a first- 
 class carriage. 
 
 When you reach Gloucester Road Station you are at 
 Bailey's Hotel, and within a few minutes walk of Hyde 
 Park, Kensington Gardens, Cromwell Gardens, Stan- 
 hope Gardens, Queen's Gate Gardens, etc., etc. Near at
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 41 
 
 hand are the Albert Memorial, Albert Hall, and South 
 Kensington Museum. 
 
 There is no attempt to lead people to believe that very 
 low prices prevail or that Bailey's is a "cheap house" 
 in any sense of the term. On the contrary, you pay for 
 the best, and you get it. You can live at Bailey's Hotel 
 on the European plan at about the same rate as at an 
 American hotel of the first-class. Single rooms rent at 
 about one dollar per day ; double rooms from a dollar 
 and a half ; suites from four dollars and a half upward. 
 These are the winter rates. They are a trifle higher 
 during " the season." 
 
 As at all English hotels, breakfast varies in price from 
 fifty cents to seventy-five cents ; luncheon from sixty 
 cents ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and twenty-five 
 cents. Of course it is English, and there are some ex- 
 tras. It is a rule at every English hotel, except the 
 Savoy in London, to make a separate charge for "at- 
 tendance," about thirty-five cents per day for each per- 
 son, and Bailey's conforms to the rule. No American 
 likes it and it seems odd, but it is the custom in England, 
 
 and when in Rome . Four dollars per week is the 
 
 charge for each member of the canine race. 
 
 BERNERS HOTEL, OXFORD STREET. 
 
 London is a pretty large town, and those hotels whose 
 names are so much in men's mouths, such as the Grand, 
 the Victoria, the Savoy, the Langham, the Metropole, 
 do not include the entire list of excellent houses. The 
 Berners Hotel is not so grand as these nor near so large ; 
 but for that reason, and because its prices are moderate, 
 it commends itself to many. Berners Hotel is intended 
 for and is largely patronized by families. Berners street is 
 a quiet, narrow street running off from Oxford street and 
 is but a few steps west from fashionable Regent street.
 
 43 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 The location is not without historical interest. In 
 Berners street Theodore Hook played the most famous 
 of his many practical jokes. In the early days of the 
 century practical jokes were more in favor than they 
 are now. " A practical joke is a peasant's joke," says 
 the Italian proverb " Gioco di mano gioco villano" But 
 allowance imist be made for the animal spirits which 
 prevailed "in the hot days when George the Fourth was 
 king," and the "Berners Street Hoax " was planned and 
 carried out by Theodore Hook on such a large scale that 
 its very completeness removed it from the category of 
 ordinary hoaxes. 
 
 The ' ' Berners Street Hoax " was simple enough in its 
 conception. It consisted in ordering two hundred trades- 
 men to send at the same time goods of the most varied 
 kinds to a particular house in Berners street (No. 54) ; 
 the originator of the little comedy having meanwhile 
 secured for himself a post of observation in a house im- 
 mediately opposite the scene of action. 
 
 The house, No. 6, where the Berners Hotel has been 
 established for the last half century, is associated less 
 with comic than with dramatic incidents. Here, in this 
 very house, lived Fauntleroy, the banker ; and here, 
 according to a legend which may well be founded on 
 fact, he concealed, after committing his great forgery, 
 a considerable portion of the proceeds ; lodging solid 
 bullion behind wainscoting, up chimneys, and in odd 
 corners of secret cupboards. The ancient house, with 
 its abundant woodwork, its carved cornices, and its 
 painted ceiling, transports one to the past ; though the 
 modern furniture and the newly-invented appliances of 
 all kinds soon recall the dreamer to the time in which 
 we live. 
 
 The building also has a history, and is old, but the 
 apartments and the appointments are up to date. The 
 house was recently "done over" (London lingo) by 
 By water & Co. , a celebrated English firm of decorators.
 
 LONDON HOTELS 43 
 
 It is within walking distance of many places of amuse- 
 ment and within a shilling cab fare of the principal rail- 
 way stations. 
 
 The charges at Berners Hotel are moderate ; single 
 bedroom from two and six (sixty-two cents) per day ; 
 breakfast from one and six ; luncheon from one shilling ; 
 table d'hote dinner, three and six less than one dollar. 
 Visitors are also received on boarding terms at a special 
 rate, from nine shillings per day, including room, attend- 
 ance, breakfast, luncheon and dinner (six courses) at 
 table d'hote. Children under ten years -at half price. 
 Board and lodging for visitors' servants, six shillings 
 per day. George Augustus Sala, himself a famous ban 
 vivant, is chairman of the company ; Thomas Ward, a 
 man of wide experience in hotel management, is the 
 resident director, and he is well supported by a most 
 capable manager. Mail address, 6 and 7 Berners street, 
 Oxford street, W. ; cable address, Berners Hotel, London. 
 
 IN JERMYN STREET. 
 
 A couple of small, quiet hotels in Jermyn street a 
 street which runs parallel with Piccadilly may be found 
 pleasant by families or by ladies without escort. They 
 lack that bustle and noise to which some people object, 
 and they are not " company hotels, " that is to say the 
 head and front of each is always visible and approach- 
 able. Mr. Rawlings is proprietor of the Rawlings Hotel, 
 and Mr. Morle with his family keeps and manages the 
 house which bears his name. 
 
 While Jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are 
 quiet, plenty of life and gayety are to be had near at 
 hand. Bond street and Regent street, two of the most 
 fashionable shopping streets of London, are hard by, 
 and the parks and palaces are within walking distance.
 
 44 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 Rawlings' Hotel is famous for its cuisine, and a feature 
 at Morle's is that you can arrange to live on the Ameri- 
 can plan if you prefer, the charges being "inclusive," 
 as they call this plan there, and very moderate withal. 
 Both these houses are homelike and comfortable, but 
 they are not strictly fashionable. 
 
 Do not confuse Morle's in Jermyn street with Morley's 
 in Trafalgar square. Morley's has a magnificent out- 
 look, with the noble Nelson Monument, Landseer's lions 
 and the playing fountains in front, and the dinner served 
 at Morley's is of the best quality, but the house is very 
 old and rather worn, notwithstanding its white and 
 attractive exterior. 
 
 THE FIRST AVENUE. 
 
 Don't be prejudiced at the sound of "First Avenue 
 Hotel." It is in Holborn, a bustling, busy thorough- 
 fare, but which has nothing in common with our First 
 avenue in New York. The Gordon's Hotel Company 
 erred in naming the house ; they possibly meant to 
 say Fifth Avenue Hotel, for the First Avenue Hotel 
 ranks probably with our Fifth Avenue Hotel in New 
 York, only the First Avenue is not an old house. Hoi- 
 bom is one of London's main arteries, a continuation, 
 east, of Oxford street. The First Avenue is not very 
 far from St. Paul's and Newgate. The former being a 
 noble cathedral, you will wish to get into ; the latter 
 being a prison, you will wish to keep out of, unless for 
 a temporary visit. 
 
 OTHER HOTELS. 
 
 Another hotel in Holborn which may be commended 
 is the Holborn Viaduct Hotel, near the city station of 
 the London, Chatham and Dover Railwav.
 
 LONDON HOTELS. 45 
 
 A pleasant house in High Holborn is the Inns of 
 Court ; neither fashionable nor grand, but select and 
 comfortable ; largely patronized by English people. 
 Terms moderate. The main entrance is in Lincoln's 
 Inn Fields. 
 
 There are some famous old houses farther east, in the 
 city, in such a bustling, busy quarter as St. Martin's le 
 Grand, near the General Post Office. The Queen's 
 Hotel in this neighborhood is best known. 
 
 Not far from this locality is the Manchester Hotel, in 
 Aldersgate street. The proprietor of the Manchester 
 Hotel especially solicits American patronage. 
 
 Those who desire to make frequent visits to the Houses 
 of Parliament and that grand old pile, Westminster 
 Abbey, will find the Westminster Palace Hotel conven- 
 ient. It has an imposing front, in Victoria street, West- 
 minster, almost opposite to the Abbey. Within five 
 minutes' walk of this hotel are the Home Office, St. 
 James's Park, the Horse Guards, Westminster Bridge, 
 leading to the Surrey side of London, the United States 
 Legation, and the Victoria Station of the London, Chat- 
 ham and Dover Railway. The favorite and well kept 
 Hotel Windsor, referred to elsewhere, is also in Victoria 
 street, and still nearer to the Station and the Legation 
 before mentioned. 
 
 Convenient to Hyde Park are the Alexandra Hotel, 
 1 6 to 21 St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner, and the 
 Hyde Park Hotel. The latter is at the west end of Ox- 
 ford street, in Hyde Park Place, near the Marble Arch. 
 
 Claridge's Hotel used to be considered "the crack" 
 house of London, and it is still patronized by the nobility, 
 members of the diplomatic corps and by royalty. Nos. 
 49 to 55 Brook street, Grosvenor Square. 
 
 The Hotels connected with the railway stations are 
 large structures, solidly built, fire-proof, as a general 
 rule, and fitted up with every modern contrivance. They 
 are desirable stopping places if you arrive late at night
 
 46 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 or if you intend to make an early start by rail, from the 
 station, in the morning. They were erected for that 
 purpose, and they serve it admirably. 
 
 There are very many reputable hotels in London 
 which are worthy of the best patronage, detailed refer- 
 ence to which, in this limited space, it would not be pos- 
 sible to make. 
 
 If none of the hotels described or alluded to in the fore- 
 going list suits your plans and purposes, consult friends 
 who have had experience in such matters. But don't 
 go, hap-hazard, into the smallest and oldest London 
 hotels of whose very existence you never heard. Some 
 of them are unpleasant, as residences ; others are un- 
 healthy. If your stay in London is short there is every 
 reason why you should put up at the best houses. If 
 you make a protracted visit and desire to economize, go 
 to a boarding house or take lodgings. You will see signs 
 in windows all over London : hire rooms and eat where 
 your fancy or purse directs. London housekeepers are 
 glad to " eke out " by letting rooms in the summer, and 
 with a small tip now and then to the maid, life can be 
 made very comfortable in London lodgings. 
 
 A FEW BOARDING HOUSES. 
 
 There are plenty of first-class boarding houses where 
 Americans are welcome. Five or six come to mind 
 Mrs. Pool's, No. 20 Bedford place ; Mrs. Goodman's, No. 
 13 Montague place ; Mrs. Philp's, No. 6 Montague place ; 
 Mrs. Wright's, No. 15 Upper Woburn place, and Mr. 
 Cooper's, No. i Bedford place, Russell square. Mrs. 
 Philp is an American whose husband keeps the Cock- 
 burn Hotel in Glasgow ; and there is a Philp's Cockburn 
 Hotel in Edinburgh. Mrs. Philp's drawing-room is 
 beautiful, the dining-room cheerful, and there is a pretty
 
 LO NDON HO TELS. 47 
 
 garden which is backed by the walls of the British 
 Museum, so Mrs. Philp is easily found. 
 
 Those who want to live economically but comfortably 
 are recommended to the handsome private hotel or 
 pension of Mrs. Marcus Pool, 20 Bedford place, Russell 
 square. This is a pleasant and convenient quarter of 
 the city quite handy for the British Museum, not far 
 from Charing Cross, and a shilling cab fare to railway 
 stations and places of amusement. The house is fur- 
 nished and appointed on a liberal scale ; the drawing- 
 room is large and cheerful ; the bedrooms are luxuri- 
 ously fitted up in the best taste, and they have a 
 pleasant outlook. There is a Broadwood piano, also a 
 new billiard room, with a table from the famous firm of 
 Bennett. The house has a refined, home-like air, well 
 representing the character of Mrs. Pool and her charm- 
 ing daughter. French and German are spoken. The 
 terms at the Pool pension are from two dollars a day, 
 which include breakfast, table d'hote dinner and attend- 
 ance "everything inclusive." Those are the terms 
 "in the season;" the winter rates are lower. The 
 cuisine is of the substantial English quality, but not 
 heavy. At Pool's pension you are sure to meet culti- 
 vated and select people. Those who have been Mrs. 
 Pool's guests appear perfectly satisfied ; for they return 
 again and again. Mr. Cooper keeps a good house and 
 he caters to people accustomed to pleasant surroundings. 
 He is a typical Londoner of the middle class honest, 
 blunt and out-spoken. Mrs. Lucy H. Hooper, wife of 
 the American Vice-Consul in Paris, recommends No. i 
 Bedford place. Mrs. Hooper makes it her stopping place 
 when she is in London. 
 
 "American Family Home." This is the title of a 
 London establishment which meets with especial favor 
 among fastidious tourists. It is known as the Demeter 
 House, and is at No. 1 3 Montague place, Russell Square, 
 W. C., a boarding-house district, but quiet, select and
 
 48 LONDON HOTELS. 
 
 healthful. Montague Place is not far from Oxford 
 street ; in two minutes you get a penny 'bus which goes 
 to Charing Cross. Montague place is backed by the 
 British Museum, between which and the Demeter House 
 are airy and attractive gardens. The house is large and 
 the rooms spacious and beautifully fitted up ; the hand- 
 some drawing-room measures thirty feet square. Mr. 
 and Mrs. A. Goodman have kept the Demeter House 
 for about six years. They aim to combine the comforts 
 and freedom of a refined home and the advantages of a 
 hotel, but with less expense. There is accommodation 
 in the Demeter House for twenty-two guests. Many 
 leading American families make this their home during 
 their annual visits to London. It can be recommended 
 to people of refined tastes accustomed to neat, clean 
 and well-appointed houses. The rates are from six to 
 eight shillings per day for breakfast (meat breakfast) 
 and dinner ; no charge for attendance. J.n mid-day you 
 are occupied in London in sight-seeing, so luncheon is 
 not included in the figures quoted. 
 
 Put down "No. 15 Upper Woburn place, Tavistock 
 square," and note that it is not far from Euston station. 
 It is a quiet street. The house is kept by an English 
 woman of refinement, Miss Mary Wright and her sister, 
 and it may be commended as a pleasant Christian 
 home, where grace is said before meals. 
 
 Of these boarding houses, like all the hotels mentioned 
 in this article, the writer speaks from his own knowledge 
 and experience. But don't count on getting accommo- 
 dation in London hotels in the season, without making 
 previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of 
 your arrival, or you may be disappointed.
 
 It may be set down at the outset that there are 
 no restaurants in London equal to Delmonico's in Fifth 
 avenue, or the Cafe Savarin in the Equitable Building, 
 New York, and no London restaurant serves a table 
 d'hote dinner at any price equal in quality and style of 
 service to that furnished at the select and elegant 
 "Cambridge," Fifth avenue and 33d street, New York. 
 
 Neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will 
 compare with Mouquin's, in Ann street, where everything 
 is cooked to a turn, and where even a fastidious gour- 
 met need not find fault. There are two or three Italian 
 places in Regent street where they serve a " Chateau- 
 briand," enough for two persons, for one dollar, but no- 
 where do you get a dish of macaroni that is more pala- 
 table than at Mouquin's and neither in London nor 
 Paris do you get as good Burgundy for the price as 
 Mouquin's Beaujolais half bottle, forty cents. 
 
 The foreign halls are more richly gilded, and the fur- 
 niture is of finer texture, but if you are looking for as 
 good food and as well served at that at Mouquin's, at 
 Mouquin's prices, you will look in vain. 
 
 In the price of wines, however, no first-class hotel or 
 restaurant anywhere that I know of sells wines as low 
 as the manager of the Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Cal. 
 In France, on the Swiss border, I found vin ordinaire 
 almost as cheap as water, in the small inns. The Hotel 
 del Monte, please bear in mind, is a superbly appointed 
 and grand establishment, and they serve you a half
 
 50 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 
 
 bottle of good California Zinfandel for fifteen cents. 
 But then this hotel company own their own vineyards, 
 and make no profit on wine served at table. It is a sort 
 of " sample " or advertisement for their wines. 
 
 " The Aerated Bread Shops," which are as " thick as 
 flies " in London, are probably good enough places to 
 drop into if you are in a great hurry, for a cup of coffee 
 or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry, digestible seed cake. 
 If you abhor marble tables, if you must have a serviette 
 and you would avoid a crowd 'and mixed company, keep 
 out of the "aerated bread shops," and by the same 
 token and by all means keep out of the Lockhart lunch 
 shops. The "aerated bread shops" are tolerable ; the 
 others are not. 
 
 Much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread 
 shops or Lockhart's lunch shops is the confectionery and 
 'cake counter of William Buszard, 197 and 199 Oxford 
 street, where everything is clean and inviting. A sim- 
 ilar place of the first-class is that in "the city," of 
 Alfred Purssell & Co., No. 80 Cornhill, E. C. The pro- 
 prietor of this establishment is related to the late Wil- 
 liam Purssell, founder of the famous restaurant in Broad- 
 way which still bears his name. There are several pleas- 
 ant places in and near Piccadilly where you may obtain 
 a cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich, just 
 enough to "stay the appetite." One of the best of 
 these is Callard's, 146 New Bond street, but even in 
 this neat and clean little shop they don't know what a 
 serviette is. 
 
 The Tivoli restaurant, up stairs, connected with the 
 Tivoli Music Hall, is in the Strand, just East of Charing 
 Cross. ' ' La Haute Cuisine Francaise, " as they term it, is 
 in charge of a famous chef, M. Gerard. A Table d'Hote 
 Luncheon, at 2S. 6d., from 12 to 3 ; Parisian dinner, at 
 $&., from 6 to 9, served in the Flemish Room. 
 
 Londoners are proud of their Holborn Restaurant, 218 
 High Holborn, where the glass and the brass and the
 
 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 51 
 
 mar ole columns are resplendent and imposing, and 
 where you are regaled with vocal music (English glees) 
 during the dinner hour, but the meals are not daintily 
 served ; the butter is not cold and the plates are not 
 warm, and unless you order a costly meal at the Hoi- 
 born Restaurant, the waiter may wait on you with con- 
 descension. Dinner, three-and-six. 
 
 There is a Washington Restaurant in London, 203 
 Oxford street, not far from Oxford Circus. Its title 
 attracts Americans, although the proprietors are Italians, 
 Costa and Magri. Great stress is laid on the large and 
 choice stock of wines here, and the cellars, as I know 
 from examination, contain some good brands. There 
 is not much style at "The Washington," but on the 
 other hand the prices (for food) do not reach the top 
 notch. 
 
 The elegant Hotel Bristol, 17 Cork street, Burlington 
 Gardens, is open as a restaurant in the middle of the 
 day. This now is the place for a gourmet or an epicure. 
 The dishes are served in perfect style and the wines are 
 the choicest. A four-shilling table d'hote luncheon is 
 served daily at the Bristol. This price, of course, does 
 not include even a " small bottle." 
 
 If you are in ' ' the city, " in the neighborhood of the 
 Bank (the Bank of England) and you have a desire to 
 see how and where some of the bankers, brokers and 
 merchants lunch, step into the ' ' Palmerston Restau- 
 rant," Palmerston Buildings, a solid looking structure, 
 at 34 Old Broad street. I don't know exactly, but I 
 believe it is kept by the company which "runs" the 
 aristocratic Hotel Bristol in Burlington Gardens. No 
 matter who keeps it, The Palmerston is well kept, and 
 it is called " the largest one-floor restaurant in the 
 world." Neither do I know what is meant by that re- 
 mark since there are several floors besides a cold 
 luncheon counter, dining rooms for ladies, grill room, 
 reading room, supplied with newspapers from all parts
 
 52 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 
 
 of the world (in which, of course, you will find The Home 
 Journal), smoking and billiard rooms, even a hair- 
 dressing saloon and bath rooms. The Palmerston is 
 worthy its great name. It is in the city proper and 
 well worth a visit. 
 
 Ladies who are in the neighborhood of Westminster 
 Abbey or who have business at the American Legation, 
 are recommended to the Army and Navy stores, in 
 Victoria street, opposite the, Windsor Hotel, where a 
 dainty lunch is served at a very moderate sum. You can 
 do your shopping in the same large establishment. They 
 sell everything, from a poached egg to an Axminster car- 
 pet or a wedding outfit. The Army and Navy stores is on 
 the cooperative plan. To gain entrance you must either 
 use a member's ticket number or use good judgment. 
 
 Gatti is a well-known name in the Strand, where the 
 Gattis have two large, gaudily furnished restaurants, 
 one of which extends to King William street. The 
 Gattis are also owners of the Adelphi Theatre, where 
 you may always enjoy a drama if you enjoy melo- 
 drama. The Gattis are Swiss, and one of the brothers 
 is a legislator in one of the Swiss Cantons. They com- 
 menced in a small way, in the east end of London, many 
 years ago and made a reputation for their ices. They 
 long since moved to the west end, where they increased 
 their business and they now conduct a thriving trade. 
 All Gatti's waiters are foreigners. They are a talkative 
 set, and some people might prefer that their linen be 
 nearer the color of snow. 
 
 IN REGENT STREET. 
 
 If you are in the neighborhood of Piccadilly Circus, 
 a fair place to get luncheon at a fair price is " the Flor- 
 ence " in Rupert street, Regent street. It is an Italian
 
 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 53 
 
 restaurant ; the lunch is served table d'hote and the 
 price is one shilling and sixpence. But there is no profit 
 to the restaurateur in the mere lunch : you are expected 
 to order wine indeed that is the expectation in all 
 English restaurants and hotels all hotels that are not 
 temperance houses. At the Florence you can get din- 
 ner from six to nine, for half-a-crown sixty-two cents 
 and you order wine of course. 
 
 If you are fond of high living, and you don't mind 
 paying for it, take a meal in the middle of the day or early 
 in the evening at the Hotel Continental. It is in the 
 lower part of Regent street, on the corner of Waterloo 
 place, within the shadow of the Duke of York column. 
 It was one of the first houses in London to adopt the 
 French style in name Hotel Continental in lieu of 
 Continental Hotel and it was one of the first to serve a 
 first-class dinner in the French style. The reputation 
 for its cuisine is second to none, and the hotel prides 
 itself upon the accuracy of the names and vintages of 
 the wines supplied. It has the monopoly in London of 
 that famous brand of champagne, " Medaille d* Or," 
 which received the grand prize in the French Exhibition 
 of 1878 over sixty other competing wines. Cigarettes 
 made of the finest tobacco are manufactured expressly 
 for the hotel in Constantinople and Salonica. 
 
 There is always a very gay scene in the Hotel Contin- 
 ental supper room after the theatres close ; it might be- 
 come too lively in the early hours of the morning, but 
 the police regulations oblige such places as the Contin- 
 ental to close their doors at one A.M. Dinner from 
 seven-and-six to twelve-and-six, without wine, of 
 course ; for although you are in the Continental you 
 are not on the Continent. A. Y. Wilson is the manager. 
 
 More attention is given to " the inner man " in London 
 than in any other place I wot of. They seem to live to 
 eat there, not eat to live, and yet some one has noted 
 this difference you eat dinner in London, while in Paris
 
 54 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 
 
 you dine. Mention the subject of restaurants in London 
 and the majority will ask you, "Have you dined at 
 'Verrey's in Regent street?" Yes, I've been to Verrey's 
 and I found it very expensive, and very gloomy, not to 
 say oppressive. You are in the middle of the house and 
 the room is lighted from a skylight. It is not cheerful. 
 
 Near Verrey's, at 227 Regent street, is Elphinstone's, 
 an attractive "pastrycook shop," where cakes, coffee, 
 ices or a sandwich are served quickly and neatly. 
 
 Blanchard's, "The Burlington," 169 Regent street, is 
 patronized by the higher classes. Dinner from five 
 shillings to twelve-and-six. No higher priced dinner in 
 London. 
 
 For a healthful, nicely-served meal, whether it consist 
 of a mutton chop and a boiled potato or a dinner of 
 several courses, much better than most of the establish- 
 ments in Regent street is the Cafe Royal, at No. 68 
 Regent street. In the " Grand Cafe Restaurant Royal," 
 where dinner is served, prices rule high. For luncheon 
 go into the " Grill Room " of the Cafe Royal. You will 
 find the rates reasonable, the food of the best, the ap- 
 pointments on a grand scale, and the service satisfac- 
 tory. These remarks will also apply to "The Monico," 
 at Piccadilly Circus and Shaftesbury avenue. 
 
 The St. James Restaurant, which extends from Picca- 
 dilly to Regent street, with entrances on both streets, is 
 a large, showy place, with plenty of glitter about it, and 
 wearing the big-sounding title of St. James Hall. The 
 rates are not low, the food is not of the choicest quality, 
 the service is not of the best, and the waiters may over- 
 charge you unless you watch them closely. The charge 
 for washing your hands at the St. James, be you a pa- 
 tron or not, is two-pence. This is a regular charge 
 made by the proprietors, but if you don't also fee the 
 man who hands you a towel or fills your basin, you 
 might get a cold reception down-stairs the next time you 
 call, and you may fill your own basin.
 
 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 55 
 
 At the Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus, you can take 
 your choice ; go up stairs, and the charges are higher ; 
 down in the basement the same dishes are served at a 
 lower price. To quote their bill, "table d'hote three- 
 and-six, le diner Parisien, five shillings." 
 
 English people when they are thirsty drink beer, wine, 
 or something stronger ; Americans who live in cities, 
 American women at least, prefer something weaker, 
 soda water, for instance, which, charged with gas, 
 looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a 
 highly polished, silver-plated fountain. Not until re- 
 cently could American taste in this matter be gratified 
 in London. Now there are two " American confection- 
 eries " kept by Fuller, one, the principal establishment, 
 at 206 Regent street ; the other, at 358 Strand, both 
 central locations. The first is close to Oxford Circus 
 and not far from the Langham Hotel. At Fuller's you 
 can get ice-cream soda and ' ' caramels fresh every hour. " 
 In fact, on a pleasant summer day Fuller's, in Regent 
 street, will remind you of Huyler's on Broadv/ay, and 
 if you are a New Yorker, you will meet many familiar 
 faces there. If you retain a juvenile penchant for pea- 
 nuts, that taste can also be gratified at Fuller's. 
 
 THE GRILL ROOM OF THE GRAND. 
 
 So many of the transient guests at hotels in London are 
 out shopping and sight-seeing, that they generally take 
 only breakfast, or, at most, breakfast and dinner, at their 
 hotels, always lunching wherever convenience may 
 permit. The meals at European hotels being usually a 
 separate charge, the hotel is a sufferer by this custom, 
 so that at some, if not most houses, it is understood 
 that, if you take your meals out, a higher charge will be 
 made for your apartment. The directors of the Gordon
 
 56 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 
 
 Hotels, however, have a restaurant of their own in the 
 Grand Hotel, which is so attractive that it not only keeps 
 together the regular guests, but allures "the oxitside 
 world," and thus the "Grill Room" of the Grand has 
 become famous in London. 
 
 While within and a part of the Grand Hotel, it is not 
 reached by the main entrance in Northumberland ave- 
 nue. It is at the eastern end of the building, around 
 the corner, in the Strand, and is in what we would call 
 in New York a basement, but no ordinary " basement " 
 is this, and the staircase leading to it is anything but 
 ordinary. The Grill Room of the Grand is a well- 
 lighted, cheerful apartment, richly carpeted and finely 
 furnished. The chairs are comfortably upholstered, the 
 walls are gorgeous with polished tiles, the table furni- 
 ture is dainty, the food is of prime quality, and the 
 tariff of charges moderate. 
 
 Don't be surprised at the charge, two-pence, for wash- 
 ing your hands in the Grill Room lavatory, and unless 
 you occupy a room, the charge for use of lavatory in 
 the hotel proper is three-pence ; but it is worth half a 
 crown merely to see the lavatory, or rather the staircase 
 and landing leading to it, so beautiful are the colored 
 marble fountain, the eastern rugs, the fernery and the 
 Oriental lamps, with which this lower part of the house 
 is decorated. The view of this lower part from the 
 marble staircase on the main floor has been called fairy- 
 like ; it is certainly very pleasing. 
 
 Strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the 
 hotels in Europe as they are in ' ' the States. " They 
 can't use the smoking-room, read the newspapers, loiter 
 about the halls, make a general rendezvous of the house 
 and help themselves to stationery in European hotels as 
 they do on this side. Their hotels lack some of our 
 popular features and the excellent service and discipline 
 of the American hotels, but, on the other hand, they 
 are not so noisy, and are more private and home-like.
 
 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 57 
 
 SIMPSON'S DIVAN. 
 
 A Characteristic English Restaurant. A good, plain, 
 thoroughly wholesome English dinner is served in an 
 appetizing way by English waiters at Simpson's, No. 
 103 Strand, next door to Terry's Theatre, opposite 
 Exeter Hall. You get a bowl of good soup, a course of 
 fish, a cut from the joint, a salad, two kinds of vege- 
 tables, with bread and butter, a biscuit and a bit of rich 
 Gorgonzola or dry Wiltshire cheese to wind up with, and 
 your whole bill will be four shillings, to which add three- 
 pence for "attendance," which is charged in the bill, 
 and about threepence more which you will hand to the 
 waiter. A feature of the place is that the hot joint, over 
 a chafing dish and on a small table, is wheeled round 
 to you, and it is there cut before your eyes and trans- 
 ferred to your plate. You can get a lower-priced dinner 
 in London, and higher-priced dinners where you please, 
 but none of a better quality and none that is more satis- 
 factory unless you demand fancy fol de rols, indigestible 
 entrees and French dishes made of little or nothing. 
 
 Simpson's is justly celebrated for its ' ' fish " dinners. 
 Both these and the meal above described are served in 
 the middle of the day and in the evening also. On Sun- 
 day the evening dinner only is served ; the place is closed 
 on that day until 6 P.M. 
 
 Simpson's enjoys the patronage of Henry Irving and 
 of other people famous in the theatrical world, just as it 
 did in the last century. Henry Irving's Lyceum Thea- 
 tre, by the way, is in the Strand, near Simpson's, but on 
 the opposite side of the street. Not very long ago I 
 saw D'Oyly Carte enjoying his dinner at Simpson's. 
 This is a special compliment to the place, because that 
 magnificent hotel, the Savoy, in which this theatrical 
 manager is interested, is just around the corner from 
 Simpson's, on the Thames Embankment. During the
 
 58 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 
 
 summer of '91 I met at Simpson's another theatrical 
 manager, our own Augustin Daly, with his wife. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Daly occasionally left the Hotel Metropole, 
 where they had apartments, to partake of one of Simp- 
 son's substantial, well-cooked and appetizing meals. 
 There's no Simpson now, the founder died long ago, 
 but " Simpson's " is there yet, as it was a hundred years 
 ago, although it is now a limited company. Howard 
 Paul eulogizes this place, and Stephen Fiske recom- 
 mends it. Besides being a brilliant writer on dramatic 
 matters, Mr. Fiske has made a study of the gastronomic 
 art, and he lived in London continuously during nine 
 years. The reading public put faith in Stephen Fiske's 
 dramatic criticism ; his intimates also trust to his good 
 taste and judgment in ordering a dinner. 
 
 It is a well-known fact that changes in the employees 
 at this establishment are seldom made. Some of the wait- 
 ers have stood at the tables for nearly two decades, and 
 the head waiter has been there (probably not always as 
 head waiter) for more than thirty years. The name of this 
 head waiter is Charles Flowerdew, so he informed me, 
 and I can impart this piece of information that this same 
 Flowerdew is a character worth studying. There is 
 nothing of the " Yellowplush " type about him, but he 
 is such a character, courteous and civil (yes, seemingly 
 servile to an American's eye), such as Dickens delighted 
 to draw. 
 
 Mr. Flowerdew knows all the old customers at Simp- 
 son's, and, what is of more consequence to a hungry man, 
 he knows all the choice cuts. He will suggest the best 
 dishes, the rare bits, and he will serve you from the 
 joint ad libitum, as he proudly remarks. When next 
 you go to London, go to Simpson's, 103 Strand. You 
 will be sure to meet a few London notabilities, you will 
 be sure of a good dinner, and last, but. by no means 
 least, you will see the polite and dignified Mr. Charles 
 Flowerdew. Managing director, E. W. Cathie.
 
 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND. 
 
 While our facilities in railway travelling have wonder- 
 fully improved in the past ten years, it must not be 
 supposed that in conservative England they have stood 
 still entirely. But the improvements in carriage accom- 
 modation there have been so steady and gradual that 
 passengers hardly recognize how much more they get 
 for their money now than they did a generation back. 
 For instance, the old first-class carriage of forty years 
 ago was fifteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and 
 less than five feet high, and this was constructed to seat 
 eighteen passengers ; in other words, each person had 
 about twenty-six cubic feet of space. In the carriages 
 built to-day to accommodate ten first-class passengers, 
 each one has ninety cubic feet. 
 
 Nor because we in America have such luxurious Pull- 
 man and Wagner cars must it be imagined that the 
 English railway carriages have not comforts and luxuries 
 of their own. Some carriages, for example, have com- 
 partments which are built to seat only two or three per- 
 sons, thus securing complete privacy to a party of that 
 number. 
 
 I have never occupied a more comfortable railway com- 
 partment than in going, as I did, last September, from 
 Edinburgh to London over the lines of the Caledonian 
 and London and North Western railways, on the world- 
 famous train called the "Flying Scotchman" and a 
 flyer it is. The distance is four hundred miles, and it is 
 run in eight and one-half hours. You leave Edinburgh 
 at 10.15 A - M - and reach Euston square before 7 P.M. 
 As there are several important stations between the two 
 cities at which long steps are made, the train must
 
 60 RAIL WA Y TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 
 
 make between many of the stations much more than 
 fifty miles an hour. The speed was so great at times 
 that it caused unusual vibration, and at times it gave 
 me a slight reminder of sea-sickness. 
 
 The compartment was built to seat two persons. In it 
 there were two large, softly-upholstered, sleep-inviting 
 arm-chairs, one on each side of the car. Between the 
 two chairs at the back was a door leading to a lavatory 
 for the sole use of the two passengers. It was supplied 
 with iced-water, washing water, towels, mirror and all 
 the etceteras and conveniences that are desirable in 
 travelling. The compartment had six windows two at 
 each side and two in front. Between the two front 
 windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror. 
 The floor was richly carpeted and the compartment was 
 supplied with a number of brass brackets and hooks for" 
 the travellers' impedimenta. But more than this 
 across the front, breast high, was a shelf about six 
 inches wide to hold books and papers, and below this 
 another shelf about the same width for a foot-rest. 
 
 The compartment was seven feet square and seven feet 
 high. Here a man and wife or two friends can make 
 themselves about as comfortable as if they were at home 
 in their own drawing-room. You exchange your shoes 
 for slippers, don your smoking jacket and if your com- 
 panion does not object, you can enjoy a fragrant Havana. 
 To be sure this is against the rules of the company and 
 your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty shil- 
 lings if you were found out, but the distances are great 
 and the stops few on this " flying Scotchman," so there is 
 ample time to enjoy a smoke on the sly. No extra fare 
 is demanded for this most luxurious vehicle ; it is 
 simply ranked as a first-class carriage, but you had bet- 
 ter write to the station master and engage such a com- 
 partment a day or two in advance of your intended 
 journey, for not more than one of these small compart- 
 ments is by chance attached even to a " flying Scotch-
 
 RAIL IV A Y TRA YELLING IN ENGLAND. 61 
 
 man. " No extra charge is made for this engagement 
 in advance. 
 
 The complaint years ago that passengers were locked 
 in the cars can seldom now be made. The custom is 
 almost entirely abolished ; it caused so many accidents. 
 The aim of each and every passenger on a British rail- 
 way is to secure a seat with his back to the engine. In 
 this way he avoids draughts of air : draughts from a 
 bottle they never object to. In fact both men and women 
 drink often and deeply during a journey, but it does not 
 seem to affect them. 
 
 Time tables are not given away as with us : the charge 
 is a penny, two cents. You never hear " all aboard " at 
 railway stations, but the much pleasanter sounding 
 words, "take your seats, please." 
 
 LUGGAGE AND BAGGAGE. 
 
 You do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for 
 baggage on a continental railway, but in England seldom 
 or never. Still a piece of baggage is seldom lost on an 
 English railway. It gets to its proper destination at last, 
 but it seems to be more by good luck than by good 
 management. Baggage, or "luggage," as they term it, 
 goes astray sometimes, but on the other hand, the system 
 for tracing and finding it is excellent. They have a "lost 
 luggage " department in the principal stations. 
 
 They are very particular as to the quantity of bag- 
 gage. Each passenger is allowed so many pounds. At 
 every station there is an official who keeps a sharp eye 
 on the porters who handle trunks, and at the slightest 
 suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk on 
 the scales with which all stations are supplied. 
 
 There are strong racks in every car for light luggage, 
 but a great deal of what we should term heavy baggage
 
 62 RAIL WA Y TRA YELLING IN ENGLAND. 
 
 finds its way on the racks and under the seats. English- 
 men travel with an extraordinary quantity of impedi- 
 menta. They carry large satchels, also portmanteaus 
 resembling a good-sized trunk all because no checks 
 are given. Everybody wants to keep his luggage in hand 
 or in sight. 
 
 There is a prominent sign posted in some of the large 
 stations to this effect : "Any porter who is discovered 
 accepting a fee will be instantly dismissed." And yet 
 you won't get your trunk moved an inch without drop- 
 ping a few coppers into a porter's hand. The fee sys- 
 tem prevails everywhere, from the station master who 
 furnishes information to the uniformed porter who 
 whistles for a "four-wheeler" or hansom. In many 
 cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by 
 dropping a penny in a slot. But this is a better arrange- 
 ment than exists at stations on the continent, where an 
 old woman stands guard, whom you must fee before you 
 are allowed to leave. 
 
 A ROYAL RAILWAY TRIP. 
 
 When the Queen of England makes a railway journey 
 it is an event of no ordinary importance. With her it is 
 not, as with the President of the United States for 
 example, so simple a matter as climbing up the steps of 
 a Pullman or getting into a Pennsylvania Florida special 
 or Chicago limited, and proceeding without fuss. No, 
 when Queen Victoria is about to travel preparations are 
 made long beforehand and all the regular arrangements 
 of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the 
 royal train. 
 
 When Her Majesty journeyed by the Caledonian Rail- 
 way from Carlisle to Aberdeen, en route to Gosport and 
 Ballater, many days previous there was issued the table
 
 RAIL WA Y TRA YELLING IN ENGLAND. 63 
 
 of instructions for working the trains over the line on that 
 day. They were intended for the use of the company's 
 employees only, who were forbidden to make known 
 their contents. A pilot engine was sent over the road 
 twenty minutes before the royal train, in charge of the 
 foreman of the locomotive department. This engine 
 maintained throughout the journey the uniform interval 
 of twenty minutes. No other train, engine or vehicle, 
 except passenger trains, was permitted to travel on the 
 other track between the passing of the pilot and the 
 royal train, and even passenger trains had to slow down 
 to ten miles per hour. 
 
 One of the orders issued was this : ' ' Drivers of such 
 trains as are standing on sidings or adjoining lines, 
 waiting for the passing of the royal train, must pre- 
 vent their engines from emitting smoke or making a 
 noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is 
 passing. " 
 
 Brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing pro- 
 jected from their trains. Each foreman plate-layer, or 
 "section-boss," as we would say, after examining his 
 length of line, stationed himself at the south end and an 
 assistant at the north ; after the pilot had passed they 
 walked till they met, seeing that all was right. The 
 stations were kept clear and the public admitted at one 
 station only, the last. Even here, cheering or other 
 demonstration was forbidden, "the object being that 
 Her Majesty should be perfectly undisturbed during 
 the journey." These instructions, signed by James 
 Thompson, general manager, and Irvine Kempt, gen- 
 eral superintendent, were obeyed in their minutest de- 
 tail. 
 
 It mus.t not be supposed that the company has to 
 pocket the loss when the Queen travels. The royal 
 lady not only does not travel on "passes," but she pays 
 all expenses incurred. A copy of the instructions 
 printed in gold are presented to the Queen and she can-
 
 64 RAIL IV A Y TRA YELLING IN ENGLAND. 
 
 not fail to be gratified by the care and thought exhibited 
 by the company. 
 
 The entire mileage of the Caledonian Railway is one 
 thousand miles ; the main line from Carlisle to Aber- 
 deen, over which the queen travelled, is about two 
 hundred and forty miles. It traverses a beautiful coun- 
 try. From this great trunk run out branches and 
 connections by steamer in all directions reaching to 
 all big towns of the country, most of the small ones, and 
 all the districts famed in Scottish song or history, the 
 highlands, the lochs, the seaboard, etc. The road is a 
 model road and one of the best appointed in Great 
 Britain. The tourist, the student and the sportsman 
 are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of 
 the tours arranged by the Caledonian company. 
 
 THE NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY. 
 
 One of the largest English railway systems is that of 
 the London and North Western. The territory covered 
 by this railway extends from London in the south to 
 Carlisle in the north, and from Cambridge in the east to 
 Holyhead in the west an area of three hundred miles 
 in breadth. The main office of the government is in 
 London, but the capital, so to speak, is Crewe, a town 
 of thirty-five thousand inhabitants, consisting entirely 
 of the employees of the railway and their families. The 
 total number in the railway's service does not fall far 
 short of sixty thousand. The annual budget amounts 
 to ten million pounds, while the funded debt has 
 reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling. 
 
 The London and North Western shops at Crewe have 
 to keep in repair a stock of engines that is worth five 
 million pounds sterling, and while they do not indeed 
 put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes, they
 
 RAIL WA Y TRA YELLING IN ENGLAND. 65 
 
 do literally every four hours, and in doing so the en- 
 gines consume a million tons of coal per annum. On an 
 average, it is reckoned that every five days an old en- 
 gine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one. 
 
 Of late years the company has been experimenting on 
 an extensive scale with a system of metallic permanent 
 way. Steel " keys " fasten the rails into steel " chairs," 
 which in their turn are riveted down to steel sleepers. 
 About thirty miles of line has been laid on this system, 
 with about sixty thousand sleepers. So far the results 
 are understood to be satisfactory. The question in- 
 volved in the conflict between steel and wooden sleep- 
 ers is gigantic. A rough calculation shows that to re- 
 place the wooden sleepers on existing lines in Great Brit- 
 ain only would require about four million tons of steel, 
 without reckoning the weight of the chairs and keys. 
 And great Britain has only one-fifteenth of the railway 
 mileage of the world. 
 
 In some ways the " goods "traffic arrangements of the 
 road at Liverpool are even more remarkable than those in 
 London. At Liverpool the North Western has six goods 
 stations, two of them reached by tunnels each a mile 
 and a quarter in length, constructed for their use alone. 
 One of these stations, Edgehill, is called a goods 
 "yard," but this yard contains fifty-seven and a half 
 miles of land, covers two hundred acres of ground, and 
 has cost about two million pounds sterling nearly ten 
 millions of dollars. 
 
 The conductors on the New York street cars, like the 
 New York policemen, are sullen and sour; they seem 
 ill-tempe'red, if not ill-natured. You seldom or never 
 see a smile on their lips, and as for giving utterance to 
 the common and easy phrase, ' ' thank you, " when they 
 receive a fare, they wouldn't be guilty of such a piece of 
 politeness ; not they. 
 
 It is different in England, on the Continent, every- 
 where in Europe. Whether on a steam road, a steam-
 
 66 RAIL WA Y TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 
 
 boat, a tram or an omnibus, no officer or conductor 
 would think of receiving a fare without thanking a pas- 
 senger audibly, and even when an officer opens the 
 door or looks into the window of a carriage for the pur- 
 pose of examining tickets, you will not hear the short, 
 sharp, curt demand, "tickets," as in the States, but 
 "all tickets, please," in a pleasant and agreeable tone. 
 
 AN ENGLISH RAILWAY GUARD.
 
 THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL'S. 
 
 All Americans who go to London visit Westminster 
 Abbey, and some of them make more than one visit. 
 There is a rare charm about the grand old pile. I 
 never go to London without visiting the Abbey, and 
 this was also the custom of the late Aaron J. Vander- 
 poel, with whom I had the honor of crossing once or 
 twice. On one voyage westward, a fellow passenger 
 was James R. Cuming, of the famous law firm of Van- 
 derpoel, Cuming and Goodwin. Mr. Cuming and I were 
 fellow students in the old law firm of Brown, Hall and 
 Vanderpoel in the days of District Attorney Blunt, 
 never-mind-how-many years ago. Mr. Cuming's hair is 
 now tinged with gray, but he has the same genial, 
 agreeable qualities, and he is just as modest, eminent 
 and successful lawyer though he now is, as he was 
 when he and I were boys together in the Broadway 
 Bank building on the corner of Broadway and Park 
 place. But none of this personal matter has aught to 
 do with the subject in hand. 
 
 I was about to say that while all Americans go to 
 Westminster Abbey to see the monuments and other in- 
 teresting things, all of them do not know that two of 
 England's greatest men, her most renowned heroes of 
 modern times, are buried in St. Paul's Cathedral Lord 
 Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 One reason why American and other tourists who 
 visit St. Paul's seldom see the tombs of these great 
 men is because they do not know that the cathedral 
 
 contains them. The tombs are in the crypt, and un- 
 
 b7
 
 68 THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL'S. 
 
 less you knock on the great iron gates leading to 
 the crypt and pay a sixpence, you cannot obtain ad- 
 mission. 
 
 But besides the tombs of these two celebrities, a num- 
 ber of other eminent Englishmen lie buried in the 
 cathedral. Among the monuments (over their tombs) 
 may be read the names of General Gordon, Admiral 
 Napier, Hallam, the historian, Sir Christopher Wren, the 
 architect, and the famous artists, Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 Landseer, Benjamin West, and J. W. M. Turner in 
 fact, as there is a Poet's corner in Westminster Abbey, 
 so there is a Painter's corner in St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Nelson's remains are covered by a great sarcophagus 
 of black marble, which was intended for the tomb of 
 Cardinal Wolsey. The Duke of Wellington is buried in 
 a sarcophagus of porphyry, of which the upper part, 
 forming the lid, alone weighs seventeen tons. 
 
 A visit to St. Paul's discovers many other interesting 
 things, and it is the opinion of the writer that it is one of 
 the three grandest public buildings of modern times, the 
 other two being the Capitol in Washington and the Palais 
 de Justice in Brussels. 
 
 The cathedral itself has an interesting history. The 
 first St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Ethelbert of 
 Kent, in the year 610. It is said to have been destroyed 
 by fire in 961, rebuilt and again destroyed by fire in 
 1086, rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by 
 fire in 1666. The present structure was built by Sir 
 Christopher Wren and took thirty-five years to complete, 
 being finished in 1710, at a cost of something like 
 ,747.954 sterling nearly four millions of dollars. It 
 covers more than two acres of ground. The height from 
 the pavement to the top of the cross is three hundred and 
 sixty-four feet three inches. You get a good view of 
 the building from the Thames. The best view of the 
 building, however, is from the top of an omnibus 
 going east down Fleet street, but this view is now some-
 
 THE CR YP T OF ST. PA UL'S. 
 
 69 
 
 what marred or obstructed by the railway arch which 
 crosses Ludgate Circus. 
 
 A few figures about the bell and the clock may not be 
 without interest. The former, called Great Paul, 
 weighs sixteen tons, fourteen hundredweight, two quar- 
 ters, nineteen pounds ; height, eight feet ten inches ; 
 diameter at base, nine feet six and a half inches ; thick- 
 ness where the clapper strikes, eighteen and three-quar- 
 ter inches. The clapper is seven feet nine inches long 
 and weighs four hundredweight. The note is E flat. 
 The clock has two faces, each nearly twenty feet in 
 diameter. The minute hand is nine feet eight inches 
 long and weighs seventy-five pounds ; the hour hand is 
 five feet nine inches long and weighs forty-four pounds. 
 The hour figures are two feet, two and a half inches 
 long. The pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is at- 
 tached a weight of one hundred and eight pounds. It 
 beats once in two seconds.
 
 THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 
 
 Windsor, the royal residence, twenty-five miles from 
 London, attracts of course .many American visitors, its 
 features of interest including, besides the castle and 
 park, the celebrated stables. But as for stables, the 
 Queen's Mews, near the centre of London, offer a much 
 more brilliant show. Admission is gained with little 
 difficulty or formality by Americans. You simply call 
 at the American Legation in Victoria street, two or three 
 blocks (as we'd say in New York), from the Victoria 
 railway station a "penny 'bus" from Charing Cross 
 passes the door. It is not necessary to ask for Minister 
 Lincoln ; your card sent to Mr. White, the secretary of 
 the legation, or, in his absence, to Mr. McCormick, the 
 courteous assistant secretary, will secure you in return 
 the necessary pasteboard for yourself and party to visit 
 the Queen's Mews in Buckingham Palace road a very 
 short walk from the legation and a stone's throw, so to 
 speak, from Victoria station. 
 
 The stables cover a few acres of ground. They con- 
 tain the royal harness, the carriage of state and other 
 carriages, and have stalls for about one hundred horses, 
 in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men are 
 employed, those longest in the service being privileged 
 to live on the premises. There is nothing very remark- 
 able about the horses' quarters ; the stalls are not more 
 luxurious nor are they kept in better condition than 
 many private gentlemen's stables in New York and 
 Newport, nor are the horses particularly worthy of 
 note, excepting the ten large black stallions and the 
 cream-colored stallions, used in drawing the state car- 
 
 70
 
 THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 71 
 
 riage on state occasions, as, for instance, when the 
 Queen opens parliament. The tails of these stallions, 
 the black and cream-colored, all reach to and almost 
 sweep the ground, with the exception of one big black 
 animal, whose brevity of appendage is made up on state 
 occasions by the addition of a false tail. 
 
 The creams are eleven in number, and it is extraor- 
 dinary how perfectly gentle and quiet they are. The 
 fact that a stranger can approach and examine them as 
 closely as wished for speaks volumes for the discipline, 
 and the care and the intelligence of the stablemen. The 
 cream-colored horses were brought over from Hanover 
 originally by George L, and from that time, with the 
 exception of the period between 1803 and 1814, when 
 Napoleon I. was in possession of that city, until 1837 
 they were regularly supplied from the electoral stud at 
 Hanover. Napoleon in 1803 captured the cream-colored 
 stud which belonged to the Elector of Hanover, and 
 made use of eight creams at his own coronation ; so 
 from then until his downfall in 18 14 the black horses 
 were used on state occasions in England. Since 1837 the 
 creams have been bred at the stud farm at Hampton 
 Court. 
 
 The harness for ordinary use is of black leather with 
 elaborate bright brass trimmings, that for state occasions 
 is also of black leather, the crowns and coats-of-arms, 
 in solid metal, being heavily and richly gilded. The 
 harness is kept in perfect condition, and kept on show, 
 protected by glass doors and windows. You may see 
 and admire the royal reins, but they are not to be 
 handled by common fingers. 
 
 Among the carriages there is one kept for its past his- 
 tory and glory, not for present use a gaudy, gilded, 
 theatrical-looking vehicle, the weight of which is four 
 tons, the great, heavily-tired wheels of which measure 
 six feet in diameter, the whole being of the respectable 
 age of one hundred and thirty years. The most beauti-
 
 72 THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 
 
 ful feature of this curious relic of by-gone days is the 
 eight pictures set in as many panels, painted by Cipri- 
 ani, an Italian artist famous in his day. 
 
 But the carriages for Her Majesty's ordinary use and 
 the carriage which is reserved for state occasions, which 
 is drawn by the eight cream horses, are models of com- 
 fort, luxury and beauty. They are upholstered with 
 dark blue cloth, the only interior ornaments being of 
 worsted fringe matching the clqth in color. The wheels 
 and body are dark blue, the panels being painted in a 
 lighter shade, the centre of each door panel relieved by 
 the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors, but not 
 larger in size than a silver dollar. The carriages are 
 hung on C springs and yield from any point to the 
 slightest touch. 
 
 I ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge 
 that when Her Majesty places her foot on the step her 
 weight must make quite a depression of the springs. 
 "Does it," said the royal flunkey; "you should stand 
 'ere when the Duchess of Teck gets in. The Queen's 
 cousin is a werry heavy woman, God bless her. If you 
 was to see her get in you would see a depression, or 
 whatever you call it." 
 
 You will make a mistake if on leaving the Mews you 
 do not drop a shilling into the ready palm of both coach- 
 man and footman.
 
 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 
 
 Stand on the high ground, above the fountains, in 
 Trafalgar Square, with your back to the great, grim- 
 looking, granite block of buildings formed by the 
 National Gallery ; behind the Nelson column ; yes, 
 much farther back ; behind the statue of Gordon, which, 
 while you are in that position is overshadowed by the 
 admiral's statue. 
 
 This view is pronounced by Boot's District Guide to 
 London, and by many London writers " the finest site 
 in Europe, " but this is an extravagant statement. While 
 it is interesting and attractive it is by no means so open, 
 so large, nor anything like so beautiful as the Place de 
 la Concorde in Paris, with its very much grander and 
 more artistic fountains, its obelisk, its many noble 
 buildings, far and near ; the Tuileries Gardens seen in 
 one direction and the great Arc de Triomphe, at the 
 head of the Champs Elysees, in another. 
 
 Trafalgar Sqtiare was dedicated to Lord Nelson and 
 commemorates his glorious death in the battle of Tra- 
 falgar, which occurred October 22, 1805, and in which 
 the English fleet gained victory over the combined 
 armaments of France and Spain. In the centre of the 
 square, to the memory of the groat hero, rises a massive 
 granite column, one hundred and fifty-four feet high. 
 It is surmounted by Baily's statue of Nelson, seventeen 
 feet high, the capital of the column being of bronze, 
 melted from cannon captured from the French. Tlie 
 four bas-reliefs at the base represent respectively the 
 death of Nelson, by Carew ; the battle of the Nile, by 
 
 73
 
 74
 
 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 75 
 
 Woodingtcm, the bombardment of Copenhagen, by 
 Ternouth, and the battle of St. Vincent, by Watson. 
 You will notice in the accompanying illustration that 
 the admiral's sword is in his left hand, Nelson having 
 lost his right arm. At the foot of the pedestal is in- 
 scribed his last command : 
 
 " England expects every man this day will do 
 his duty. " 
 
 To the extreme left is St. Martin Church, as the poet, 
 William Winter, explains, "no longer in the fields." 
 One half of each of its gray columns has been turned 
 black, not by time, but by the quicker action of London 
 soot. These dark shadows on the once light-colored 
 buildings in London are offensive to some people ; to my 
 eyes they are artistic, picturesque and uncommonly 
 pleasing. St. Martin's was completed by Gibbs, in 1726. 
 Its exterior, especially the Corinthian portico, is worth 
 studying. If you have a fancy for such things and in- 
 vestigate further, you will find here the graves of the 
 actress, Nell Gwynn, a favorite of Charles II. , Farquhar, 
 the dramatist, and the notorious Jack Shepard, 
 
 To your near left in the square is the equestrian statue 
 of King George IV., holding a mace in his right hand; 
 to your near right, on a line with this, stands a heavy, 
 solid granite pedestal with its large capstone ready for 
 its companion-piece another statue, when the man 
 and the occasion shall come. 
 
 In front of the King George statue, nearer the road- 
 way, is the life-size statue of General Henry Havelock, 
 bearing this inscription : 
 
 To 
 
 Major General 
 
 Sir Henry Havelock, K. C. B. 
 
 and his brave companions in arms 
 
 during the campaign in India 
 
 1857.
 
 76 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 
 
 ' ' Soldiers : your labours, 
 your privations, your sufferings, 
 
 and your valour, 
 
 will not be forgotten 
 
 by a grateful countf y. " 
 
 To your right, in front of the unoccupied pedestal, is 
 a companion piece to the Havelock statue, the statue of 
 another soldier, Sir Charles Napier, designed by 
 Adams. / 
 
 To the plashing fountains below and to the four mam- 
 moth, finely formed lions which, couchant with their 
 fore paws crossed and mouths partly open, seem to 
 stand a strong but silent guard over the living water, it 
 is not necessary to direct attention. They are Sn Edwin 
 Landseer's lions and the eye cannot escape them. 
 
 This is a hotel centre. To the left, on a line with old 
 St. Martin Church, is Morley's hotel, also old, but with 
 a very attractive exterior all the same. On the same 
 line, but across the busy strand and extending far down 
 Northumberland avenue, is a comparatively new hotel, 
 with an imposing semi-circular, smooth, dark gray 
 fagade, relieved by many light-colored window-awnings. 
 It is the Grand Hotel, which was erected in 1880 on the 
 site of Northumberland House. No location in London 
 for the purpose is choicer, nor is there in London any 
 building better constructed or better appointed for its 
 purpose. In Northumberland avenue is the Hotel Vic- 
 toria, known and known favorably to all Americans who 
 visit London, A little further on, parallel with the Vic- 
 toria, separated only by a narrow passage, is the Hotel 
 Metropole, one of the celebrated chain of Gordon 
 Hotels, three links of which may be found in London, 
 one of which is the Metropole, at Brighton, others being 
 in other parts of England and in the south of France. 
 
 A little east of the Square in the Strand are both the 
 Charing Cross Hotel and the Golden Cross Hotel. I have 
 tried the first and it was a trial, indeed ; the second does
 
 THE I-1XEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 77 
 
 not look any more inviting, so I never made the experi- 
 ment. 
 
 Pall Mall is a famous club centre, but there are several 
 noted club houses in this locality also. Directly in view, 
 on your right, serving as a background for the unoccu- 
 pied, dark pedestal, loom up the light-colored walls of 
 the Union Club ; dating from 1824. This is on what 
 New Yorkers would call "the corner of Trafalgar 
 square and Cockspur street, " but you seldom or never 
 hear such a useful phrase in London as on the corner of 
 this street or that avenue. 
 
 It is not visible from where you are, but parallel with 
 and next door to the Grand, on the avenue, is the build- 
 ing of the Constitutional Club. The club has a very 
 large membership and it is full. I know of names which 
 were put up years ago, and which are still waiting their 
 turn. The Constitutional is a popular club ; the annual 
 dues are low. The building has a colored, ornate front, 
 and a French roof. It is of great size, affording ample 
 space for reading, smoking, dining and bed-rooms. 
 There are two billiard-rooms, one for members only, 
 and one for members who may bring a friend fora quiet 
 game. 
 
 Down the avenue, on the opposite side, below the 
 Hotel Metropole and overlooking the gardens at its feet 
 and the river beyond, is the National Liberal Club. It 
 stands on a corner and its lofty tower rises twenty-two 
 feet above the highest point of the hotel which it faces. 
 Its interior is as grand as the exterior is imposing. No 
 expense was spared in its construction, and it is worth 
 seeing. A shilling carefully expended at the door may 
 gain you a glance at the ground floor and its rich marble 
 fittings, if even you be not a Liberal in politics. I tried 
 this plan myself and it worked satisfactorily. 
 
 Remain in the same spot, with your back still turned 
 toward the National Gallery ; look straight ahead, be- 
 yond the Nelson column, and in the roadway, on what
 
 78 THE FINEST SQ UARE IN LONDON. 
 
 they call in London an "island," you will notice an 
 equestrian statue. It is a little the worse for wear, hav- 
 ing been buried for many years and afterwards dug out 
 of the earth. The tail of the horse looks like what it 
 is, a metal tail, and it almost sweeps the ground, and 
 stiff and square on the back of the horse sits that unfor- 
 tunate king, Charles I. , who was unmercifully beheaded. 
 The statue is ungainly, but England reveres things, if 
 even they are ugly, on account of their historical asso- 
 ciations, so King Charles is likely to remain in his un- 
 graceful position, an offence to the eye. This same 
 statue, however, if not beautiful, has its uses ; it marks 
 the " centre of London," and for that reason cab fares 
 are reckoned from this spot. 
 
 Never mind the poor animal or his rider. Artistically, 
 they are not worth dwelling on. Let youi eye wander 
 across them to the stirring scenes beyond. A trifle to 
 the right there radiates from the square another street, 
 one side of which only is Charing Cross, the other, 
 Whitehall. "Scotland Yard," the former police head- 
 quarters, is on the left ; on the right, a quarter of a mile 
 farther, is the Admiralty; then "the Horse Guards," 
 which is only a gateway to St. James's Park. A little 
 farther south, on the same side, is the Home Office, but 
 there the avenue changes its name to Parliament street, 
 at the southern end of which is that venerable pile, 
 Westminster Abbey, and adjoining it are the Houses of 
 Parliament. These, as buildings, are best seen from 
 the river, but you will get a good view, in the distance, 
 from where you stand, although it be half a mile from 
 your position, of the magnificent clock-tower of the 
 Houses of Parliament. It makes a striking picture, with 
 the Surrey Hills in the background. 
 
 The clock-tower, which is forty feet square, rises to 
 the elevation of three hundred and sixteen feet. The 
 dials of the clock, which it takes two hours each week 
 to wind, are twenty-two feet in diameter ; the hour-
 
 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 79 
 
 hand is nine feet Jong, and the minute-hand, which, in 
 spite of its tenuity weighs two cwt., is sixteen feet 
 long. The illumination of the enamelled glass dials, 
 each of which is provided with sixty gas jets, is ingeni- 
 ously controlled by the clock-work, their light waning 
 with the dawn of day and increasing with the fading 
 twilight. 
 
 I have not attempted to touch upon the interiors of 
 the buildings mentioned. The National Gallery, for 
 instance, upon which you have turned your back, and 
 which Sir Charles Dilke says contains perhaps, on the 
 whole, the finest collection of pictures in the world, ex- 
 cept as regards modern work, might occupy your time 
 profitably for days, but if you wish to get a cursory 
 glance at a group of London features and buildings 
 interesting from their historical or other associations, 
 no other site in London offers such opportunities as the 
 one represented in the above illustration.
 
 30
 
 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 
 
 NOTABLK OUTING TRIP THE HOME OK INDI- 
 <;KNT ROYALTY VICTORIA'S GRAPE VINE THE 
 FAMOUS MAZE BUSHEY PARK TWICKKN 
 HAM TOWN POPE'S VILLA. 
 
 To my mind one of the prettiest outings that can be 
 easily made from London in a day is the trip to Hamp- 
 ton Court, with its famous old palace, its gallery of one 
 thousand pictures, and its uncommonly beautiful and 
 highly cultivated grounds and gardens. 
 
 The ways of reaching Hampton Court are many and 
 varied. It is sixteen miles from London by rail, twenty 
 miles by water. The cheapest and quickest way is by 
 rail from Waterloo station ; time, forty minutes ; 
 fare one way, one shilling and two pence (twenty-eight 
 cents), third class ; third class being good enough for 
 most people for so short a journey. 
 
 'Buses run on Sunday, fare one and six, and there are 
 stage coaches which go direct for two shillings. A han- 
 som costs about a sovereign (five dollars) for the day : 
 a carriage and pair much more than that. But you can 
 vary the journey ; go one way on wheels and one way 
 by water. 
 
 The water route is slow, and it is monotonous, also, 
 unless you want to get a view of the upper Thames. 
 The river is very pretty near here ; Maidenhead and 
 Marlow not far distant. 
 
 Another route is by rail from any district railway sta- 
 tion (underground), either via Wimbledon to Hampton 
 
 81
 
 82 HA MP TON COURT PA LA CE. 
 
 Court direct, or via Richmond to Hampton Wick or 
 Teddington stations. From either of the two latter it is 
 a pleasant walk through Bushey Park. During the 
 summer months it may be reached by rail to Putney 
 Bridge (Fulham station), and thence direct by steam- 
 boat, but for a stranger who wants to go direct and see 
 Hampton Court Palace, the quickest and easiest route 
 is the one first mentioned the London & South West- 
 ern Railway from Waterloo station. 
 
 Besides the beauty of the rural scenery, the attractive 
 surroundings in which the palace is set, and the mass of 
 picturesque old buildings themselves, the associations 
 connected therewith are notable in English history. 
 The palace was built by the wily Wolsey, and was oc- 
 cupied by a long line of royalty from Henry VIII. and 
 Queen Elizabeth down to Queen Anne and the first of 
 the Hanoverian monarchs. Apartments in the build- 
 ings are still used by some old dames and others of title 
 pensioners and distant relatives of the Queen who 
 have claims on the crown. 
 
 There is not much to delight the eye inside large, 
 cold, stately halls, immense bed chambers, a lot of fusty 
 tapestries, frowsy furniture (relics of departed glory), 
 and a great many paintings, most of them ' ' bad or in- 
 different," which have only their age to recommend 
 them. 
 
 The rules by which visitors must be governed as to 
 their moving about in the barn-like galleries are absurd, 
 and they are unpleasantly enforced by Jacks-in-office 
 and in livery, who are not civil. Especially to Ameri- 
 cans are they insolent. There is no charge for admis- 
 sion, and as there is not the slightest excuse for de- 
 manding a fee, the attendants are not only cross, but 
 positively rude to women. 
 
 But you will not spend much time in the gloomy 
 apartments. If the sun shines, as it does sometimes in 
 London, you will quickly get outside the mouldering
 
 HA MP TON COURT PALA CE. 83 
 
 walls to enjoy the attractive grounds, the noble trees, 
 broad meadows and the fragrance of flowers laid out 
 and cared for as only an English gardener can cultivate 
 flowers, favored as he is by the moist climate. A close 
 observer will notice signs on the flower beds which di- 
 rect you to " keep off the verges," as, over there, they 
 call the borders or edges. 
 
 One of the sights of the place is the Queen's grape- 
 vine, which is tended with special care, growing under 
 a great glass house, and from the roof of which last 
 August, when I saw it, depended twelve hundred 
 bunches of large grapes. I didn't count the bunches, 
 but, having a tiny tape measure in my pocket, I did 
 measure the trunk of the vine at its thickest point near 
 the ground, and found it to be thirty-five inches in cir- 
 cumference, It is as much as your liberty is worth to 
 pluck one of these grapes ; they are all cut down for the 
 Queen when the head gardener decides that they are 
 ripe. 
 
 In England they claim that this is the largest grape- 
 vine in the world, but I have been privileged to see one 
 growing in the open which surpasses it a vine growing 
 on an estate near " Stone Hedge," the home of my old 
 and esteemed friend, Captain A. L. Anderson, formerly 
 of New York, and owner of the Hudson river steamer 
 Mary Powell, but who now resides permanently with 
 his family in Santa Barbara, Cal. 
 
 "The maze" is considered one of the features of 
 Hampton Court, and is called the finest in the world, but 
 for size and for confusing, intricate paths, the Hampton 
 Court maze is also surpassed by a maze in California 
 on the grounds of the Hotel del Monte, in Monterey, one 
 hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco. In 
 that one State (California) there is almost everything to 
 be seen in the way of natural attractions that tourists go 
 wild over in Western Europe. California has the rivers, 
 lakes and mountains, the floriculture, fruits, fish
 
 84 HA MP TON COURT PALA CE. 
 
 almost everything in the water, on the ground and in 
 the air that you find in other countries of the explored 
 world. Its resources are apparently exhaustless, and 
 its productions, rich and marvellous. 
 
 Probably there is nothing, however, more beautiful, 
 in its way, than Bushey Park, a tract of one thousand 
 acres, but a step across the roadway from Hampton 
 Court. It contains rows and rows, miles upon miles, of 
 noble chestnut trees. To see Jhese grand old chestnuts 
 in May, when they are in full bloom, with their great 
 clusters of white and pink blossoms, is to see something 
 that will be indelibly photographed on your memory. 
 And, yet, come to think of it, even this brilliant scene 
 is eclipsed again in that wonderful State, California. 
 It is excelled by the view yoit get of Santa Clara Valley, 
 on a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, while 
 riding from Big Trees to San Jose. If you happen 
 to go through that part of the country in March, as I 
 did, and see the orchards of pears, plums and almonds 
 in full bloom, you will see such profuse and gorgeous 
 beauty in color that it will indeed be to you "a joy 
 forever. " 
 
 The pretty village of Twickenham, on the west bank 
 of the Thames, is a good long walk or a short Tide from 
 Hampton Court, through pretty country roads and 
 shaded lanes. It is immediately opposite Richmond, 
 with which it is connected by a handsome stone bridge. 
 Twickenham is quiet and antiquated ; it might even be 
 called dull, but along the river near by are many beauti- 
 ful villas with attractive grounds. " Twickenham Ait," 
 or Eel-pie House, on an island in the Thames, used to 
 be a favorite resort of holiday visitors from the metro- 
 polis. The river is narrow here and the two banks are 
 connected by ferryboats. "Twickenham Ferry" is 
 celebrated in song and story. I don't know who wrote 
 the words, but there is a very sweet and spirited song 
 entitled " Twickenham Ferry," music by Marzials, which
 
 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 85 
 
 I always listen to with great pleasure, as sung by a 
 lovely New York girl, who charms me with her beauti- 
 ful voice. The first verse goes this way : 
 
 " O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! who's for the ferry? " 
 The briar's in bud and the sun going down ; 
 I'll row ye so quick, and I'll row you so steady ! 
 And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! " 
 The ferryman's slim, and the ferryman's young, 
 And he's just a soft twang in the turn of his tongue. 
 And he's fresh as a pippin, and brown as a berry. 
 And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! 
 " O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! ho ! " 
 
 Anybody will point out to you "Strawberry Hill," 
 famous as the home of Horace Walpole, and if you are 
 a stranger, no driver will let you miss, in Twickenham, 
 "Pope's Villa," an old-fashioned stone house with a 
 brownish-gray front, in which the poet lived for several 
 years. Pope, you know, was styled ' ' The Bard of 
 Twickenham. " 
 
 Prior to removing to Twickenham Alexander Pope 
 lived with his parents in the village of Binfield, nine 
 miles from Windsor, and it was at Binfield that he 
 penned "Spring, the First Pastoral." It opens with 
 these lines : 
 
 " First in these fields I try the sylvan strains, 
 Nor blush to sport on Windsor's blissful plains ; 
 Fair Thames, flow gently from thy sacred spring, 
 While on thy banks Sicilian muses sing ; 
 Let vernal airs through trembling osiers play, 
 And Albion's cliffs resound the rural lay." 
 
 " Eloise to Abelard, " among other famous poems, was 
 penned in this Twickenham Villa, in 1717, when Pope 
 was under thirty years old. In the same place he wrote 
 "To the Memory of an Unfortunate Lady." There 
 were two such ladies, so we read in the life of Pope, in 
 whom he was interested, Mrs. Cope and Mrs. Weston, 
 but his biographer does not seem to be able to settle the
 
 86 HA MP TON CO UR T PA LA CE. 
 
 question as to which one of the two it was that inspired 
 these lines. 
 
 "Pope's Villa " is occupied in summer time, or it was 
 last summer, by Labouchere, whose London residence 
 is at Queen's Gate. But to return to the main subject 
 of this sketch it may be worth telling the reader that 
 Hampton Court Palace is open to the public free 
 throughout the year except Fridays and Christmas Day. 
 The hours on week days are ijrom : 
 
 April i to Sept. 30, 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. 
 
 October i to March 31, 10 A.M. to 4P.M. 
 
 Sundays : 2 P.M. to 4 or 6 P.M. 
 
 It is a notable fact that Hampton Court is one of the 
 very few public places in or near London which are open 
 on Sundays. Services in the Chapel on Sundays at 1 1 A. M. 
 and 3.30 P.M., on Wednesday and Fridays at 10.30 A.M. 
 
 The gardens, which are very attractive and tastefully 
 laid out, and unreservedly thrown open to the public, 
 contain several fine avenues of trees, and are open until 
 8 P.M. during the summer months, and until dusk the 
 remainder of the year.
 
 LONDON ODDITIES. 
 
 It serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of 
 the postal authorities to add the postal district initials in 
 addressing letters to London as for instance, C. , indi- 
 cating central, or S. W. , Southwest. There are eight of 
 these districts, and the necessity for adding the initials 
 will be seen when one learns that in London there are 
 no less than thirty-five King streets, thirty Queen streets, 
 eighteen York streets, a Victoria Park in the extreme 
 east, one Queen Victoria street, a Victoria railway sta- 
 tion in the Southwestern district, a Hotel Victoria in the 
 western central and a Victoria Hotel in quite another 
 district. 
 
 The postal system in London is as near perfection as 
 it is possible to make it. Few letters go astray, and the 
 delivery is prompt, there being from six to twelve de- 
 liveries daily ; but by neglecting to add the initial let- 
 ter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours. 
 There are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in 
 London, but in addressing letters take care and take 
 into consideration that there are nearly six millions of 
 people in London, that the streets and squares cover 
 eight thousand acres, and within a radius of fifteen miles 
 of Charing Cross seven hundred square miles are cov- 
 ered. Correspondence between England and the United 
 States also shows wonderful increase. Ten years ago 
 the number of letters which annually passed between 
 the two countries was eight millions ; at present the 
 number is twenty-four millions. Reduction of postage 
 rates has of course had something to do with this great 
 increase and it will bear further reduction. 
 
 87
 
 88 LONDON ODDITIES. 
 
 I happened to be near Etiston station and wanted to 
 go to my hotel in Northumberland avenue. I stepped 
 into a hansom, and not wishing to be taken for a 
 stranger I simply said " Victoria Hotel." In five minutes 
 Mr. Cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin 
 palace, bearing the sign plain enough, "Victoria Hotel." 
 " I want the hotel in Northumberland avenue," I said to 
 the driver. " Then why didn't you say Hotel Victoria," 
 was the quick response, and cabbie charged me a fare 
 and a half to emphasize the distinction. 
 
 The growth of London is' something marvellous. 
 More than ten thousand houses annually, or, it may be 
 roughly stated, one thousand houses every month, are 
 added to London. In August of 1889, 754,464 houses 
 were supplied with water by the water companies, or 
 11,113 below the number in the same month of 1890. In 
 September, 1890, the companies had to supply 10,976 
 houses more than in September of 1889. In August of 
 that year 765,577 houses were supplied with water, and 
 in September, 1891, that number had increased to 
 766,797. 
 
 The London police are a pleasant, polite set of men, 
 and if they do not refuse the price of a pint of beer for 
 a slight service, neither will they refuse to answer any 
 question, respectfully and satisfactorily. The contrast 
 is very striking between these good-tempered, obliging 
 officers, and the sullen, saucy, sour-visaged, tobacco- 
 chewing New York policeman who is just as ready to 
 answer with his club, which he carries exposed, as he is 
 with his uncivil tongue. London policemen are paid 
 from six to seven and a half dollars per week : New 
 York policemen from sixteen to twenty-four dollars 
 weekly. A London police sergeant gets only ten dollars 
 a week. 
 
 SIXPENCE FOR A PLAY BILL. At the Prince of Wales 
 Theatre and at the Shaftesbury you are charged six- 
 pence for a bill of the play, and at the majority of London
 
 LONDON ODDITIES. 89 
 
 theatres you pay for a programme. The exceptions are 
 Irving's -Lyceum and D'Oyly Carte's Savoy, where no 
 employee is allowed to accept a fee of any kind not if 
 the manager knows it. That does not say, however, 
 that a "tip" for a programme is unexpected, even at 
 the two houses named. 
 
 CIVILITY AND SERVILITY. There's a difference be- 
 tween civility and servility. You are pleased to have 
 an omnibus conductor audibly ' ' thank you " when you 
 hand him your fare, but in the London shops a sales- 
 jvoman will do the same thing even when you make no 
 purchase. At the pleasant Nayland Rock Hotel in Mar- 
 gate, on the south coast of England, a waiter will thank 
 you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you, or 
 when he hands you a glass of water if you can get 
 such a thing as water at your meals in an English hotel. 
 It is not obtainable without a little trouble ; everybody 
 drinks wine. 
 
 SOOT, SOOT, EVERYWHERE. Owing to the use of soft 
 coal in London, white buildings are soon changed into 
 black ones, partially. This change, especially where 
 one side of a set of Corinthian columns, for instance, 
 remains the original color, and the other side has grad- 
 ually turned very dark, gives some of the churches and 
 public buildings a picturesque and pleasing appearance. 
 Yellow brick is very largely used, but it soon changes 
 color. If you place a tumbler of water outside your 
 window at night with the idea of keeping it cool, for 
 you rarely see a piece of ice, you will find a number of 
 tiny globules of soot floating on the surface of the 
 water in the morning. And it is exceedingly difficult in 
 London to make weather prognostications, the sun be- 
 ing usually hidden or half-hidden by London smoke, if 
 not by fog. 
 
 EXCHANGING COMPLIMENTS. Englishmen say "as 
 drunk as a Scotchman," and Scotchmen have a saying 
 ' ' as durr as an Englishman. " " Durr " implies something
 
 90 LONDON ODDITIES. 
 
 more than quiet : it means surly, sullen. It cannot be 
 denied that English tourists are unusually quiet : they 
 seldom speak without having been formally introduced. 
 That reminds me that two or three years ago I was 
 travelling on the Midland road from London to Liver- 
 pool, and I happened to make some casual remark to a 
 fellow traveller who was a stranger to me. The gen- 
 tleman replied very briefly but courteously, and then 
 added : " Beg pardon, you hail from the other side, do 
 you not?" " Yes, but why do you ask?" "If I didn't 
 detect it in your accent," said my neighbor, "I should 
 know it because you addressed me. I have been trav- 
 elling between London and Liverpool now for many 
 years, and I am never spoken to but by an American, 
 and I rather like it." 
 
 There are no " cross-walks," as we call them, in the 
 cities of Great Britain ; none are needed. Nor does 
 anybody cross the street at right angles, as we do in 
 New York. Everybody crosses diagonally, from corner 
 to corner, or crosses in the middle of the block. The 
 road-ways are so smooth and well paved that all parts 
 are alike, and it is never necessary to pick your way. 
 In New York, besides exercising great vigilance to pre- 
 vent being knocked down and run over by vehicles, you' 
 must always keep one eye on the ground while cross- 
 ing. You may be upset by a car track, or you may step 
 between two stone blocks that are a foot apart, more 
 or less. 
 
 As TO OYSTERS. English oysters still retain their 
 flavor, a great deal of flavor ; in fact they have entirely 
 too much that is to say, too much for anybody whose 
 palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste. You can 
 get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen, but choice 
 " Whitstables," that have a strong, coppery flavor, come 
 as high as four shillings a dozen. For the uneducated 
 American palate, Chesapeake oysters, or the Great 
 South Bay blue points are good enough.
 
 LONDON ODDITIES. 91 
 
 SERVANTS' WAGES. Servant girls' wages in England 
 are not nearly so high as they are in the United States. 
 Even hotel chambermaids, who are paid better than 
 family servants, only receive fourteen pounds sterling a 
 year about seventy dollars, but each one is allowed a 
 fortnight's holiday (with pay) at the end of the summer. 
 And the "tips-" they receive from the guests are well 
 worth consideration. 
 
 There are differences between the habits of London 
 and New York women and here is one of the minor 
 points : New York women go " shopping, " that is to say 
 they go into one store after another to examine the 
 goods, as a diversion or pastime ; English women never 
 enter a shop without the intention to purchase ; they 
 make a business and not a pastime of replenishing their 
 wardrobe. To go on a shopping tour American women 
 often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry ; English women 
 on the contrary, dress very plainly when engaged in 
 their business of purchasing. They reserve their fine 
 clothes for the opera or for receptions, wearing no extra 
 finery even for ordinary visiting. They are not seen 
 parading the streets in silks and satins, and that is why 
 some American writers who do not observe closely say 
 that" English women in the street dress in dowdy style." 
 
 No "FORELADIES" IN LONDON. At the great dry- 
 goods house and outfitting establishment of Debenham 
 & Freebody, in Wigmore street, not far from the Lang- 
 ham Hotel, all the saleswomen are expected, nay, are 
 obliged to dress in black. They number two hundred, 
 but not a " saleslady " nor a " forelady " among them. 
 They make derision of these terms, which are so com- 
 monly heard in New York. The firm also employs six 
 or seven hundred young men. All the unmarried em- 
 ployees live on the premises, and this plan is found to 
 operate satisfactorily to all concerned. The young men 
 wear black coats, waistcoats and neckties. Many years 
 ago salesmen in London dry goods houses were not
 
 92 LONDON ODDITIES. 
 
 allowed to wear a moustache, but there is more liberty 
 now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates. 
 
 You don't hear the words, corsets, dresses nor pounds, 
 in London shops of the first class, such as Kate Reily's, 
 Debenham & Freebody's or Redfern's. They have 
 gone back to the old-fashioned term stays, gowns and 
 guineas. English merchants favor the last term because 
 a guinea is worth a shilling more than a pound. 
 
 CUSTOMS IN ART GALLERIES ABROAD AND AT HOME. 
 The British National Gallery, in Trafalgar square, Lon- 
 don, like our Metropolitan Muserum of Art and like nearly 
 all galleries in different parts of the world, is only open 
 free on certain days of the week, while the great French 
 collection at the Louvre, in Paris (probably the largest 
 and most valuable collection of pictures under one roof) 
 is always free, and may be visited without application 
 to any circumlocution office. The Louvre is open six 
 days of every week in the year ; only on Mondays are 
 the public not admitted, the officers reserving Monday 
 for repairs and cleaning. In nearly all of the public 
 galleries of Europe, as in the Corcoran gallery in Wash- 
 ington, you are obliged to leave your umbrella or walk- 
 ing stick in charge of an official at the door and for the 
 care of such an article a fee is charged in some places ; 
 at the Louvre you may carry into the galleries as many 
 umbrellas and bundles as you please. This is not al- 
 ways an advantage: for my part I am only too glad to 
 be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such 
 occasions. It seems strange that men while viewing 
 pictures in the foreign galleries should persist in wear- 
 ing their hats it. seems strange to a New Yorker ; the 
 custom being so different at our Academy of Design. 
 
 POLICE UNIFORM. The New York police are fine- 
 looking and their uniform is handsome handsomer and 
 probably better fitted for the purpose than the police 
 uniform adopted in any other country. The London 
 police look odd in their helmets and their coats, which
 
 LONDON ODDITIES. 93 
 
 are too short in the skirt. Instead of rubber coats they 
 wear a cape in inclement weather, which only protects 
 the shoulders. But if the London police look clumsy 
 and awkward what can be said of the Paris police? 
 Simply that they look silly. With their military cap 
 and sword they resemble soldiers, somewhat. In sum- 
 mer they wear linen trousers which are cut very loose, 
 and instead of allowing freedom of movement, this 
 waste of material seems to retard their progress. It 
 is a funny sight to see one of these gendarmes running 
 at full speed (his full speed) after a flying malefactor. 
 Their side-arms, capes and baggy trousers are very 
 much in the way. 
 
 The New York police act like brutes at times, but 
 they are at least a fine-looking body of men, and in 
 times of public emergency it must be admitted they 
 show courage and perform good service. 
 
 When men at London places of amusement remove 
 their hats, they seem to do it reluctantly. They will 
 enter a theatre and enter a box, remove their overcoat 
 and gloves, take out opera glass, and spread the play 
 bill before them, and then, as a last thought, if they 
 think about it at all, the hat will be slowly removed ; 
 they seem to be unwilling to part with it. How different 
 in American theatres, where every man quickly doffs 
 his hat the moment he enters the door of the audito- 
 rium. It is all the more noticeable in London theatres 
 because the women are obliged to remove their hats be- 
 fore entering, and excepting at the Lyceum, the Savoy, 
 and possibly one or two other houses, they are obliged 
 to pay for their care. 
 
 In France you see a great number of young, and some 
 very old women working in the streets and in the fields ; 
 in Germany women shovel and put in coal ; in Paris 
 they go into harness and draw hand-carts and barrows ; 
 in Switzerland they drag small carts harnessed along- 
 side of dogs. You will often see a dog and a woman
 
 94 LONDON ODDITIES, 
 
 harnessed to a fruit or milk wagon. In England they 
 go into barrooms and stand up with men and drink 
 and get drunk. 
 
 KEW GARDENS. Kew is not only the most popular and 
 favorite resort of the London holiday maker, but a place 
 unique among public institutions of its kind and of 
 special value to the horticulturist and the botanist. 
 Eighty thousand visitors have passed its gates in one 
 day. The gardens are open free on week-days from 
 noon (bank holidays 10 A. M.), and on Sundays from i 
 P. M. until sunset. The gardens and houses form part 
 of the grounds attached to the Royal Palace, a favorite 
 residence of George III. The Palm House, said to be 
 the largest glass building in the world, except the 
 Crystal Palace, contains some of the most beautiful 
 tropical palms and plants, ferns, fern trees and cacti, 
 while in the other tropical houses there is a splendid 
 collection of orchids, and other treasures of southern 
 climates, including the gigantic ' ' Victoria Regia " lily. 
 The gardens contain an endless profusion of trees, 
 shrubs, flowers and ferns of temperate regions, and 
 flora of almost every land and clime. The names and 
 descriptions will be found in most cases attached to the 
 various specimens. The museums contain many valu- 
 able specimens, and much to amuse, interest and in- 
 struct, while the contiguity of the River Thames, with 
 the view of Brentford and Isleworth, makes a trip to 
 the Gardens a delightful day's outing. Trains run 
 direct every half-hour from all parts of the District 
 Railway and its connections to Kew Gardens station. 
 The journey may be varied in the summer by travel- 
 ling to Putney Bridge station, and thence by steamboat 
 from adjoining pier to Kew Bridge. 
 
 RICHMOND. You can drive to Richmond on the 
 Thames by cab or carriage, but a quick and cheap way 
 is by train. There is a half-hourly service of trains 
 connecting Richmond with all parts of the District Rail-
 
 LONDON ODDITIES. 95 
 
 way and its connections, and through rail tickets are 
 issued at cheap fares from all stations. A steamboat 
 runs daily in the summer months from Putney Bridge 
 pier at 11.15 A.M., and through tickets by rail and boat, 
 via Putney Bridge station, can be obtained at all Dis- 
 trict Railway stations. The attractions of Richmond 
 are : Richmond Park, nearly equal in area to the whole 
 of the London Parks, containing ornamental waters and 
 herds of deer. The view of the river and valley of the 
 Thames from Richmond Hill and Terrace, described by 
 Sir Walter Scott as "an unrivalled landscape," is now 
 rendered more delightful by the recently thrown open 
 grounds of Buccleuch Park. The River Thames for all 
 boating trips. Distance up the river to Teddington 
 Lock three miles ; to Kingston Bridge five miles ; down 
 to Kew Bridge three miles. 
 
 WINDSOR CASTLE AND WINDSOR PARK.. One of Her 
 Majesty's residences ; twenty-one miles from London 
 forty-five minutes from Paddington station. The at- 
 tractions of Windsor are great. The Round Tower, 
 from the top of which a splendid view of the surround- 
 ing country may be had, is open to the public daily, 
 except Sunday ; from 1 1 to 3 in winter and 1 1 to 4 in 
 summer. St. George's Chapel may be viewed any day 
 except Wednesday, between 12.30 and 4 P.M. The Al- 
 bert Chapel is open every Wednesday, Thursday, Fri- 
 day and Saturday from 1 2 noon to 3 P. M. The State 
 Apartments, during the absence of the Court, are open 
 to the public daily (except Wednesday). Tickets, ob- 
 tainable at the Lord Chamberlain's Stores, Winchester 
 Tower, Castle Yard, Windsor, on presentation of your 
 card or name. The Private Apartments can be viewed 
 only by special order rarely granted of the Lord 
 Chamberlain. One may revel to his heart's delight in the 
 green luxury and unsurpassed beauties of nature in the 
 Home and Great Parks ; while a stroll through the Long 
 Walk, the longest avenue of trees in the kingdom, to the
 
 96 LONDON ODDITIES. 
 
 picturesque ruins and beautiful scenery of Virginia 
 Water gives a good idea of the princely residence and 
 the lovely country which surrounds it. Eton College is 
 within easy walk of Windsor Castle. 
 
 You hear a great deal about Charing Cross in Lon- 
 don, but you may look in vain for a street sign bearing 
 that name. Very few people in London know exactly 
 where it is, nor does even the policeman on the " beat " 
 know. Strange to say, neither the Charing Cross Hos- 
 pital, the Charing Cross Station, nor the Charing Cross 
 Hotel is in Charing Cross, ftfuch as it is talked about, 
 it is a very short street, extending easterly only from 
 Cockspur street, then southerly, past the equestrian 
 statue of Charles I. to Scotland Yard or Whitehall. 
 Low's Exchange is in Charing Cross, and within two or 
 three hundred feet of that house (No. 57), is the very cen- 
 tre of the city of London. From this spot cab fares are 
 reckoned. Start from here and you can ride anywhere, 
 within a radius of two miles, for one shilling. Low's Ex- 
 change, by the way, is a very popular rendezvous in Lon- 
 don for Americans. It is where they "most congre- 
 gate," and it offers many conveniences for travellers.
 
 POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 
 
 The drinking habit among men and among women 
 and girls still remains the curse of Great Britain, and its 
 companion, poverty, is everywhere. But if the poverty 
 is striking and awful to behold, its next-door neighbor, 
 charity, God be praised, aims to keep pace with it. Hos- 
 pitals and other philanthropic institutions supported by 
 voluntary contributions, are to be seen almost wherever 
 the eye turns in the United Kingdom. 
 
 The patriotic and other public funds, to meet special 
 emergencies at home and abroad, may well challenge 
 the world's admiration, not only for the princely amounts 
 subscribed, but also for the hearty and expeditious way 
 in which the funds are raised. The charitable institu- 
 tions of the city of London number upwards of one 
 thousand, and simply of asylums for the aged (colleges, 
 hospitals and almshouses), there are one hundred and 
 twenty distinct institutions. 
 
 But to return to the drinking habit, which presents 
 itself before you constantly: I was riding up to London 
 from Margate with a hotel-keeper, at whose house, on the 
 edge of the surf, I had been staying for a week, and I 
 remarked that the drinking water at Margate was of 
 good quality. " Is it ? " said Mr, Knaggs, for this is the 
 name of the agreeable gentleman who presided for 
 three years over the destinies of the Nay land Rock 
 Hotel. " Is it ? " said mine host. " Well, you know more 
 about it than I do, for I've never tasted it." 
 
 On Sunday, while at dinner at Philp's Cockburn Hotel. 
 Edinburgh, just before dessert was served, a small box 
 was passed around the table by a waiter and into it 
 
 97
 
 98 POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 
 
 people were dropping sixpences, shillings and pieces of 
 higher denomination. At once it occurred to me, here's 
 another overcharge or extra I had not counted on, and I 
 began inwardly to rebel. " What's this for ? " I blurted 
 out in a rather injured tone. " Collection for the Orphan 
 School, sir, " and I gladly added my mite. Afterwards I 
 saw money boxes in hotels and restaurants in other parts 
 of Scotland and in England labelled, for example, ' ' For 
 Charing Cross Hospital ; funds urgently needed, " etc. 
 Little boys and young women, go about the busy and 
 better parts of London on Sundays with boxes in their 
 hands, begging you to ' ' drop a penny in " for this charity 
 or that and you find it very hard, indeed, in London to 
 keep any coppers in your pocket, so strong are the ap- 
 peals. On hospital days the number of hospital boxes is 
 largely increased temporarily. At this time sheets are 
 spread in churchyards, into which people throw their 
 spare change liberally. 
 
 "The People's Palace," which was opened by the 
 Queen in jubilee year, is a noble illustration of the char- 
 itable English heart. The "People's Palace " is situated 
 in one of the poorer quarters of London, and, as every- 
 body knows, is the realization of an ideal conception of 
 Walter Besantin his novel, "All Sorts and Conditions of 
 Men." The palace includes a well-stocked library ; a 
 reading-room, supplied with papers from all parts of the 
 world ; a large swimming bath and a hall for musical 
 and literary entertainments. In the basement of one of 
 the main buildings boys are taught trades by which they 
 may earn their living. That the recipients of all this 
 good may not feel that they are objects of cold charity, 
 a slight charge per month is made for those who use the 
 reading-room, library, swimming bath, etc., and there 
 is a nominal charge, about four cents each person, 
 for admission to the concerts and lectures, which 
 are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of 
 celebrity.
 
 PO VERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 99 
 
 I visited that part of the Whitechapel neighborhood 
 which "Jack the Ripper" made infamous as the scene 
 of his murders. It was a vile place three years ago, but 
 the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand. The 
 Baroness Rothschild opened wide her heart and purse 
 and erected here, for the poor of this unfortunate quar- 
 ter, blocks of modern model tenements. These she lets 
 at very low rents, asking only three per cent, return for 
 her investment. In connection with the tenements the 
 noble woman has built a well-appointed "Club and 
 Library," with billiard-room, etc., for the amusement of 
 her tenants. These premises are in charge of a custodian 
 and his wife, who are paid for their services by the 
 Baroness ; and for the use of the " Club and Library " 
 a merely nominal charge is made to any of the tenants 
 who avail themselves of the privilege. It is not sectar- 
 ian. In England they believe in "Faith, Hope and 
 Charity," and of these three that "the greatest is 
 Charity."
 
 MARGATE, 
 
 AN ENGLISH WATERING PLACE. 
 
 I was ill in London, at the Windsor Hotel in the sum- 
 mer of 1899, and as my friend Dr. Walter M. Fleming of 
 New York happened to be in L'ondon at the time, at the 
 Savoy Hotel, I sent for him. The fact is that I had 
 been receiving too much "attention" from my friends 
 dinners, drives, concerts, theatres, suppers, etc., all of 
 which resulted in physical and nervous exhaustion. 
 
 Dr. Fleming's prescription was simple "rest and a 
 change of air," but as this was Dr. Fleming's first visit 
 to England, I began to question my friends and others 
 as to the best pharmacy at which to have the prescrip- 
 tion filled. The proprietor of the Windsor Hotel, Mr. J. 
 R. Cleave, said "Margate ; " so, too, said the intelligent 
 manager of the house, Mr. Mann. An old and trusted 
 friend wrote me, " Don't go to Margate, go to Brighton 
 or to Hastings." Thus opinions differed. I knew all 
 about Brighton and wanted to see a place new to me. 
 I was much inclined to go to Hastings, but a concen- 
 sus of opinion prevailed in favor of Margate. 
 
 " There's a beautiful air at Margate," is the response 
 of everyone in England to whom you speak of 'that 
 place, from the boys at Low's exchange in Charing 
 Cross to Mr. R. Whiteing, a writer on the London Daily 
 News. This remark was also made to me by Major 
 Arthur Griffiths, an English author and litterateur, who 
 is known and esteemed on both sides of the Atlantic. 
 So to Margate I went. 
 
 Margate is on the south coast of England, seventy-five 
 miles from London, whence it is reached by the London, 
 
 100
 
 MARGA TE. 101 
 
 Chatham and Dover Railway. This is the road celebrated 
 for the beautiful rural scenery that borders it ; it passes 
 through the prettiest parts of Kent, "the garden of 
 England," through Rochester and Canterbury, famous 
 for their cathedrals, and other places of historic and 
 scenic interest. You may also reach Margate by steamer 
 from London Bridge. It is a pleasant sail on the Thames 
 of ninety-three miles. 
 
 Having arrived at Margate, you can make it the 
 starting point for many a delightful excursion. Boul- 
 ogne on the French coast, for instance, across the chan- 
 nel, is directly opposite Margate ; steamer fare round 
 trip, six shillings a dollar and a half. 
 
 Other pleasant excursions are made to Canterbury 
 and to Ramsgate. To these places run ' ' pleasure vans " 
 accommodating twenty persons and the fare ranges 
 from threepence to a shilling, according to the style of 
 vehicle. If you do not care to patronize the pleasure 
 vans, you may hire a victoria at two shillings per hour. 
 Canterbury is the site of the famous cathedral. At 
 Ramsgate lived the Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses 
 Montefiore, for nearly the length of his long and useful 
 life one hundred years. 
 
 Another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned 
 village of Broadstairs, for many years the home of 
 Charles Dickens. The house Dickens occupied and 
 which he called " Bleak House," still stands on its com- 
 manding site at the top of the cliffs directly overlooking 
 the sea. A description of Bleak House, with illustra- 
 tion, appeared in the Home Journal in January, 1891, 
 and has been widely copied in this country as well as in 
 England. Broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from 
 Margate, fare by victoria four shillings. 
 
 Few Americans who cross the ocean go to Margate, 
 but they may spend a couple of days or a couple of 
 weeks there with advantage. Margate is a town with a 
 history. Its foremost historical feature is the Church of
 
 102 MARGATE. 
 
 St. John, built in 1050. It has seen the rise of Norman, 
 Plantagenet and Tudor dynasties and still stands, the 
 oldest of England's possessions. In the time of Queen 
 Anne, according to the chronicler, to be buried in a 
 sheet cost sixpence, and a shilling was the extravagant 
 price of a coffin, but the honor of being buried from St. 
 John's Church cost two shillings more! Marriage banns 
 were to be had at St. John's for three-and-six. 
 
 Modern Margate is one of England's most popular 
 watering-places. There are n^any pleasant walks and 
 some fine buildings. One of the pleasure resorts is the 
 ocean pier. Here, three times a week, a large band of 
 picked musicians perform a good programme giving a 
 promenade concert directly over the breakers. 
 
 It is the boast of the Britisher that his government 
 is "parental;" it not only assumes to take charge of the 
 individual, but it does in many particulars compel him 
 to take care of himself. If, for instance, you are caught 
 boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined " forty 
 shillings " (ten dollars) a favorite sum for a fine, by the 
 way, is that same forty shillings. 
 
 The pier at Margate would seem to be an exception 
 to the rule of safety ; it cannot be called absolutely safe 
 at night. The boat landing below is reached by several 
 flights of wide stairs, and the lowest flight is open and 
 unguarded, not only in daytime but also at night. In ad- 
 dition to this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at 
 all, and it would be the easiest thing in the world on a 
 dark night to walk off by accident into the water. Why 
 more accidents and loss of life do not occur is surpris- 
 ing. Twopence admits you to the pier, and it is a 
 popular democratic resort. 
 
 At night the scene near the pier is a lively one. Street 
 restaurateurs, their barrows ablaze with flambeaux, line 
 the highway and drive quite a business selling plates of 
 oysters, mussels, cockles and snails, which are more or 
 less tempting.
 
 103
 
 104 MARGATE. 
 
 If you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to 
 Margate. There is no high-rolling surf, but if you are a 
 swimmer you will be all the better pleased. There are 
 no ropes to lay hold of, none are necessary ; you bathe 
 in perfect safety and comfort, and, as at all English 
 resorts, you bathe from a " machine." 
 
 In America bathing facilities consist of long rows of 
 commodious wooden boxes placed on the beach at some 
 distance from the surf. You purchase a bathing ticket 
 for twenty-five or fifty cents, the price depending on 
 whether you prefer a woolen to 1 * a cotton costume. You 
 receive the suit and the key of your box. Then you 
 put your valuables in an envelope sealed by yourself 
 and hand them to the custodian, who places them in a 
 separate box in an enormous safe, returning you a check 
 tied to a rubber band, which latter you pass over your 
 head and wear while bathing. You proceed to your 
 " house," as we call it, disrobe and don your scant suit, 
 lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of 
 the water, where, as fancy dictates, you loll around on 
 the beach, talking to your friends, or you plunge im- 
 mediately into the breakers only to come out, dry your- 
 self in the sun, cut up capers on the sand, chat or 
 smoke, repeating the process ad libitum. Of course men 
 and women bathe together. 
 
 Not so in England. There you bathe from ' ' machines, " 
 small wooden houses, five feet square by ten feet high, 
 mounted on four wheels. They have entrances back and 
 front, each approached by a low flight of steps. You 
 enter by one door in street costume, and having dis- 
 robed and donned your bathing garments, you give the 
 signal, a horse is attached to the "machine " which is 
 drawn a short distance into the water. You step down 
 and out, disport yourself in the water as long as you 
 please and reenter your box, to emerge therefrom once 
 more in everyday habiliments. No lolling about the 
 beach, no unseemly display of person ; all is conduct-
 
 MARGATE. 105 
 
 ed in a proper, staid and exemplary manner on the 
 beach. 
 
 And in sooth, why should you walk around and smoke 
 and chat with your friends on this occasion, in a cos- 
 tume, or lack of costume, which if worn at ether times 
 or places would land you in jail for exposure of per- 
 son? This with reference to the American custom or 
 costume. 
 
 In England it is worse in some respects, for while the 
 women dress as they do here, the men bathe in a nude 
 state, so to speak. They wear small trunks or loin cloths 
 only, and men and women bathe together indiscrimin- 
 ately. Notices are posted in prominent places near the 
 beach, boldly printed and bearing the English coat of 
 arms, to the effect that in the water men and women 
 must remain separate, and further that you will be fined 
 forty shillings (of course forty shillings) if you are found 
 nearer to a female than one hundred yards ; but it is a 
 dead letter law, and is entirely disregarded. I am not 
 the most prudish man in the world, but I confess to hav- 
 ing been shocked. Trunks did not suit me ; I preferred 
 and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon 
 special application. 
 
 The beach is hard and smooth, broad and gently 
 sloping. The bluff at Long Branch is not to be men- 
 tioned, scarcely, with the bold, beautiful white chalk 
 cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach 
 at Margate to a height of seventy-five feet. Along this 
 bluff are miles of grassy, serpentine walks, gardens 
 prettily laid out, dotted with summer houses and 
 bounded by hedges and clover fields a beautiful, na- 
 tural landscape, artificially enhanced. 
 
 The favorite bathing place on the beach is managed 
 by Charlotte Pettman. It is reached by a "coast 
 guard " cutting in the cliff, an inclined passageway 
 sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge. It 
 is a sort of artificial canon. Bathers are charged six-
 
 106 MARGATE. 
 
 pence each. " six baths for two-and-six, twelve for f Qur- 
 an d-six." 
 
 Mrs. Pettman advertises her baths by a circular which 
 contains the following touching verse, no doubt assist- 
 ing trade materially. 
 
 "I pitied the dove, for my bosom was tender, 
 I pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind ; 
 But I ne'er shall forget the superlative splendor 
 Of Charlotte's sea baths, the pride of mankind." 
 
 In his early days of struggle the great Charles Dick- 
 ens, for a few shillings, penned these lines as a "puff" 
 of Day & Martin's blacking. 
 
 So far as the waves are concerned, the cliff is as solid 
 as it appears to be, but it has yielded to the hand of 
 man, and at Charlotte Pettman's baths there is a statue 
 sculptured in the cliff, entitled " My first plunge." It is 
 the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in bath- 
 ing costume, just about to take "a header" from the 
 platform. It is by Priestman, an English artist. The 
 door is opened to art lovers for twopence each, or as 
 much more as the generously disposed may be inclined 
 to give, the proceeds being handed over to a local 
 hospital. 
 
 One of Margate's architectural features, as seen in 
 the accompanying illustration, is its handsome clock- 
 tower, standing in a conspicuous position on the Marine 
 drive. It was erected in honor of the Queen's Jubilee 
 in 1887, and has a musical chime of bells. 
 
 Like Brighton and some other seaside resorts, Mar- 
 gate is democratic in the height of summer, but select 
 in the autumn. In olden times the season commenced 
 in June and continued until October. Margate offers 
 every inducement to a prolonged season. While Lon- 
 don is miserable under November fogs and humid 
 atmosphere, Margate is brilliant with glorious days 
 and bright skies ; fine weather from August until 
 Christmas.
 
 MARGATE. 107 
 
 Americans, of course, must flock to the largest hotel. 
 They like size, and many of them patronize the Clifton- 
 ville Hotel, which, to be sure, is a large establishment 
 in the most fashionable, and certainly the most attrac- 
 tive part of the town, near the grand cliffs, and over- 
 looking the sea a splendid site and a beautiful house 
 exteriorly, but not as well kept as an Amerian host 
 might care for it. 
 
 The White Hart Hotel, on the principal street, is a 
 commercial house, and has a comfortable appearance 
 from the outside, but the Nayland Rock Hotel, not far 
 from the two railway stations, yet overlooking the sea, 
 and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit 
 into the water (provided you have the biscuit), is to my 
 knowledge a well-appointed hotel, with bedrooms as 
 clean and comfortable and dining-room as cheerful as 
 any hotel in the world. The cuisine is of the best. If 
 great variety be absent, quality is present. The food is 
 choice, and served in a neat, tempting and scrupulously 
 clean manner. 
 
 European hotels, as a rule, are kept on the European 
 plan ; at the Nayland Rock you have your choice. If 
 you choose the American plan, the terms are very low 
 for the accommodation afforded. Two dollars and a 
 half a day secures you pleasant room, three good meals, 
 lights and service. There are no extras. The wines 
 are of first quality. 
 
 But I almost forgot an important item. I went to 
 Margate for health and rest ; I found both there. After 
 one week I returned to London " like a lion refreshed," 
 and I shall always say, as everybody in London says, 
 "there's a beautiful air at Margate."
 
 TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. 
 
 The company that owns the Grand Hotel and the 
 Metropole in London, opened in March, 1890, a magnifi- 
 cent house at Brighton, on the English southern sea 
 coast. " Magnificent " is the word. It is built of stone; 
 it faces the sea ; it has an acre or two at the back laid 
 out in gardens, tennis courts, and pretty walks, after 
 the style of the United States Hotel at Saratoga ; there 
 is a separate building on the grounds for a ball-room, in 
 this respect resembling the Grand Union Hotel at the 
 same American spa ; the elegant drawing-room on the 
 ground floor looks on the King's Road and the ocean ; 
 the library, which faces the garden, contains a large 
 and choice selection of books by leading authors, and in 
 the basement there are Turkish and Russian baths fitted 
 up with a. luxury and perfection of appointment not 
 equalled in any other hotel. The proprietors have 
 availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the construc- 
 tion and furnishing of hotels, and nothing that money 
 can supply, or good taste can suggest, has been left un- 
 done to make the Metropole at Brighton what it is 
 one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels in the 
 world. It is said to accommodate six hundred guests 
 and to have cost ,480,000. 
 
 Besides this hotel, and the Grand and Metropole 
 hotels in London, the same company owns another 
 hotel in London, "The First Avenue," in Holborn ; 
 also the Burlington at Eastbourne; the Royal Pier 
 Hotel at Ryde, Isle of Wight ; the Metropole at Monte 
 Carlo ; and the Metropole at Cannes all of them luxu- 
 rious establishments. 
 
 108
 
 TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. 109 
 
 Brighton attracts visitors the year round ; in fact it is 
 a city of no mean size, having a permanent population 
 numbering an eighth of a million. It enjoys two sea- 
 sons one for the hoi polloi, which begins in June and 
 lasts three months, and another for the fashionable 
 world, which begins in September and continues till 
 near Christmas. During the second season the prices 
 at Brighton are greatly increased. 
 
 I entered one of the leading hotels one day about 
 lunch time, and as is my custom before engaging rooms 
 or partaking of a meal at an English hotel, I asked : 
 "What is the charge for a table d'hote lunch here?" 
 " Two-and-six, " replied the porter. As for seeing the 
 lessee or manager of an English hotel, you can almost 
 as easily secure an audience with the czar of all the 
 Russias. 
 
 But to return to my muttons or to the lunch, which, 
 truth to tell, was good in quality and nicely served. 
 My daughter heard the following conversation between 
 the head waiter and the said porter as we were passing 
 in to the ''coffee-room" Quoth the former: "How 
 much did you tell these people for lunch ? " " Two-and- 
 six," replied that blue-coated, gold-embroidered official. 
 " That's wrong," remarked the head waiter, who almost 
 lost his head as well as his temper. " Three shillings is 
 the price to strangers," and three shillings each we had 
 to pay. 
 
 This reminds me of the old story of the Englishman 
 who was heard to remark about a man passing, who 
 had a foreign look : " 'Ere'sa stranger, Bill, 'eave 'arf a 
 brick at 'im." 
 
 That they call these dining rooms in English hotels 
 " Coffee Rooms," when they never serve in them a cup 
 of coffee after dinner without a separate and extra 
 charge, is rather exasperating. 
 
 The porters and officials at some English hotels are 
 not, though it appears as if they were, in league with
 
 110 
 
 TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. 
 
 the cabmen. If you ask them about rates just before 
 taking a drive they will occasionally mislead you and 
 name a higher rate than the usual or legal one. For 
 instance, I asked the clerk at another hotel in Brigh- 
 ton, what was the fare by the hour for a drive in an 
 open cab or victoria holding two persons. ' ' Four shil- 
 lings per hour," quickly responded my misinformant. I 
 knew better, for this was not my first visit to Brighton, 
 but said nothing. To a cabman with a good-looking 
 victoria who stood immediately opposite the hotel en- 
 trance I popped this question : " What will you charge 
 us for an hour's drive along the beach and about the 
 town?" " Two-and-six, " briskly replied cabbie and we 
 drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for the 
 half crown.
 
 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 
 
 Bleak House, the scene of the novel of that name, is 
 near the village of St. Albans, about twenty miles from 
 London, and is described in the early part of the 
 story as an " old-fashioned house with three peaks in 
 the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the 
 porch." That there was more than one Bleak House 
 in the mind of Dickens "there can be no possible 
 probable manner of doubt," as Gilbert sings in "The 
 Gondoliers," because at the close of the story one of 
 the characters in it is made to say, ' ' Both houses are 
 your home, my dear, but the older Bleak House claims 
 priority." 
 
 But the "Bleak House" which was for many years 
 the home of Charles Dickens, and where he wrote 
 many of his novels, was so named by the author 
 after his famous story. It is located in the old-fash- 
 ioned village of Broadstairs, on the North Sea, in the 
 county of Kent, the garden of England, and is seventy- 
 two miles from London, on the London, Chatham 
 and Dover Railway. The population is given in the 
 latest census as two thousand two hundred and sixty- 
 three. 
 
 The house was formerly called Fort House, from its 
 proximity to the British fortifications on the coast. It 
 stands directly on the top of the chalk cliffs, seventy- 
 five feet above the water, quite alone, and so near to the 
 edge that from the portico a stone might be easily 
 thrown into the surf what little surf there is. It corn- 
 Ill
 
 BLEAK HOUSE. 
 
 112
 
 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 113 
 
 mands a wide view of the ocean. In the southwest it 
 looks toward Ramsgate, a seaside pleasure resort, dis- 
 tant five miles ; in the northeast toward Kingsgate. 
 The house is appropriately named, for it is indeed bleak 
 from Christmas until April, when the cold, biting north- 
 east winds, for which these parts are noted, blow with 
 all their might. 
 
 It was natural for Dickens to select such a spot for a 
 residence. If he was not actually fond of the sea, he 
 certainly had a great liking for the sea-coast, with 
 which were associated the earliest memories of his 
 childhood. It will be remembered that he was born at 
 Portsmouth, a fortified seaport town, and the principal 
 naval station of Great Britain, about one hundred 
 miles southwest of London. Dickens lived at Ports- 
 mouth until he arrived at his majority. At Portsmouth 
 he studied law, but he found Blackstone and Coke 
 rather dry reading, and so went to London where, as 
 every body knows, he entered upon his literary career 
 by reporting parliamentary debates for the Morning 
 Chronicle. 
 
 Blfiak House is a plain, substantial, compact, three- 
 story structure of burnt brick. It has grounds of one 
 and a quarter acres in extent, and the property" is what 
 is called in England " freehold ; " value, two thousand 
 seven hundred pounds sterling. A stone wall five feet 
 high, encloses the house on two sides. One side of the 
 house is a flat, blank wall, evidently planned so that an 
 extension could be easily made, and the lower part of 
 the front is protected by plain iron railings. The en- 
 trance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a 
 portico and doorway supported by Doric columns. 
 Next the doorway, on the first story, a semi-circular 
 bay window projects, and on the second story are 
 two deep windows which open upon a pretty orna- 
 mental iron balcony, having a curved, sloping roof. 
 A great deal of ivy softens the bareness of the archi-
 
 114 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 
 
 tecture. It climbs up the walls and around the bay 
 windows. 
 
 Dickens was very partial to the ivy plant, as his 
 lyric, "The Ivy Green," testifies. He wrote several 
 lyrics, but " The'Tvy Green " which appeared originally 
 in " Pickwick Papers " is the only one that has become 
 familiar. It was first published as a song in the United 
 States, and when a London publisher wished to repro- 
 duce it in England, Dickens refused the privilege ex- 
 cept on the condition that the publisher pay ten guineas 
 to the composer, Henry Russell.' 
 
 Dickens was more thoughtful concerning Henry Rus- 
 sell's rights than this English composer is of the rights 
 of others. I well remember that my predecessor on the 
 Home Journal, the much beloved poet, George P. Mor- 
 ris, had a grudge against Russell, because Russell, in 
 England, claimed to be the author of the words, 
 "Woodman, Spare that Tree," as well as the com- 
 poser of the music; and it is my humble opinion that 
 the music in merit is far below Morris's poetry. The 
 sentiment is beautiful, the words breathe a true, 
 manly spirit and are full of deep feeling, while *the 
 music is plaintive, weak, childish namby-pamby ex- 
 presses it. 
 
 Russell did better with the English poet Mackay's 
 song, " Cheer, Boys, Cheer," making it go with life and 
 spirit, and he set appropriate music to our own Epes 
 Sargent's song, " A Life on the Ocean Wave," in which 
 you may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship 
 bowling along before the wind. Henry Russell, who, 
 by the way, is the father of Clark Russell, the novelist, 
 is still living in London February, 1892. 
 
 As to the melody, " The Ivy Green," an astute critic 
 says : " It seems to me the composer has failed to catch 
 the poet's meaning. Dickens's words are as sombre and 
 tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and softens 
 the ruggedness of decaying grandeur ; while Russell's
 
 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 115 
 
 music is as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak. " The 
 song opens with this stanza : 
 
 A dainty plant is the ivy green 
 
 That creepeth o'er ruins old, 
 Of rich choice food are his meals, I ween, 
 
 In his cell so lone and cold ; 
 The wall must be crumbled, the stones decayed, 
 
 To pleasure his dainty whim, 
 And the mould'ring dust that years have made, 
 
 Is a merry meal for him. 
 Creeping where no life is seen, 
 
 A rare old plant is the ivy green. 
 
 The. house is about fifty years old, and contains ten 
 rooms. Dickens's study was on the second floor, front. 
 It has a southeastern outlook ; he was fond of the rising 
 sun. The furniture and appointments of the room, 
 which the writer saw in the autumn of 1891, remain as 
 when Dickens left them table with telescope, book- 
 case, plain wooden armchair, etc. a very simply fur- 
 nished study. He did not die at Bleak House, however, 
 but at a short distance from it, on June 9, 1870, at Gads' 
 Hill, " Higham by Rochester, Kent," as he was in the 
 habit of dating from. 
 
 Dickens, at Bleak House, was a tenant of a Mr. Fos- 
 bury, but the house was sold after Dickens's death, and 
 is at present owned in Broadstairs by ' ' W. S. Black- 
 burn, house and estate agent, undertaker, builder and 
 decorator, and upholsterer and mover of furniture," by 
 which man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a 
 very short term to a Mrs. Whitehead, sister of the vicar 
 of St. Peter's of Broadstairs, at an annual rent of six 
 hundred dollars. Mr. Blackburn now offers the prop- 
 erty for sale. It would make a cool and charming sum- 
 mer retreat for some American prince. Or let some 
 large-hearted and large-pursed man like George W. 
 Childs buy the precious property and present it to the 
 village of Broadstairs.
 
 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 
 
 The beauty of Bath is an old story ; indeed, it is pro- 
 verbial. Lord Macaulay described Bath as "that 
 beautiful city which charms even eyes familiar with the 
 masterpieces of Bramante and Palladio"; Carlyle de- 
 clared it to be "the prettiest town in all England "; and 
 Walter Savage Landor averred, in his usual downright 
 way, "that it was the only plac worth living in, after 
 Florence ". The London Globe, as far back as the 3oth 
 of October, 1869, in an article discussing the attractions 
 of English towns, said : " Bath is, with perhaps the ex- 
 ception of Edinburgh, the most beautiful city in the 
 kingdom." 
 
 Of the valley in which the city reposes, the physical 
 features are distinctly marked and impressive. Bath 
 lies in the centre of a vast amphitheatre of hills that 
 present the most varied outlines, and every variety of 
 light, shade and color. In some places bold eminences 
 rise and impend over the low lying fields and orchards ; 
 in others, a green and gradual ascent presents a widen- 
 ing prospect. Everywhere there is a happy blending of 
 town and country. At the end of each street verdant 
 slopes or rugged rocks meet the gaze. No matter where 
 you stand, whether on Claverton Down, rising six hun- 
 dred feet above the level of the sea, on the still loftier 
 range of Lansdown, with Beckford's Tower, or on 
 Beechen Cliff, or on Sham Castle, everywhere a lovely 
 panorama is spread out before you. Being well pro- 
 tected on all sides by hills the climate is never severe, 
 and is even genial and balmy in the .colder months of 
 the year. 
 
 Much of what is told us of the early history of Bath is 
 of a legendary character, and no statement entitled to 
 
 116
 
 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 117 
 
 credit can, we are assured on good authority, be made 
 regarding the discovery and use of its thermal mineral 
 springs, prior to the Roman occupation of the locality 
 about the middle of the first century. 
 
 To what extent the practice of drinking the waters 
 was carried in early times we have little means of know- 
 ing, but it is certain that they were rarely ever pre- 
 scribed for use internally, as a therapeutic agent, until 
 the time of Sir Alexander Fraser, physician to Charles 
 II. in 1663. 
 
 The medicinal value of these healing springs even 
 now would seem to be less extensively known than in 
 the interests of humanity it deserves to be. Numbers 
 of English people annually resort to the Continental 
 spas for means of relief from some lingering disease, 
 apparently ignorant of the fact that almost at their doors 
 and in a city so accessible as Bath, there exist fountains 
 of equal or greater efficacy for healing and under con- 
 ditions of far greater comfort and convenience. 
 
 Among the diseases to which the Bath waters are speci- 
 ally applicable are rheumatism, gout, various intestinal 
 diseases, sciatica, neuralgia, nervous debility, eczema, 
 and other skin diseases, bilious affections, dyspepsia 
 and catarrh. 
 
 The many buildings devoted to the baths form a con- 
 spicuous feature in the architecture and embellishment 
 of the city. 'Not to enumerate them all, there is the 
 King's Bath, adjoining the Grand Pump Room, about 
 60 feet in length and 40 feet wide, and containing over 
 50,000 gallons of water at a temperature of 1 17 degrees 
 Fahrenheit ; the Hot Baths, the spring supplying which 
 has a temperature of 1 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and the 
 tepid Swimming Bath, for gentlemen only, 60 feet long 
 and 25 feet wide, and containing more than 37,000 gal- 
 lons of water. 
 
 In the business part of the town there is a faucet 
 where the hot mineral water flows constantly/ bono
 
 118 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 
 
 publico. It may be "good for the stomach," but to a 
 strange palate it is not pleasant. An educated taste is 
 needed before one can take delight in the bubbling, 
 boiling beverage. 
 
 The whole town is built of Bath stone, which is soft 
 and white when quarried and first used in building. It 
 hardens with time, however, resembling after a few 
 years of exposure the black buildings in London which 
 were once gray. The inhabitants have a fancy for win- 
 dow gardens, and the bright flowers and green leaves 
 about the windows form a ple&sing contrast to their 
 sombre-colored surroundings. Bath stone and Bath 
 brick are known all over England ; also Bath chairs and 
 Bath buns, which originated there. 
 
 There are several good specimens of hotel architec- 
 ture, the Grand Pump Room Hotel, for instance, near 
 the old Abbey, and in which there are several mineral 
 baths. The interior of the hotel, however, is not so 
 "grand "as its name and its imposing exterior would 
 lead you to expect. If you want to save cab hire there 
 is a small and modest looking house, with the somewhat 
 pretentious title, "The Royal Station Hotel," which is 
 reached by a bridge from the railway station, across the 
 narrow street. 
 
 A good class of English and also Americans of quiet 
 and refined tastes favor the York House Hotel. It is an 
 establishment of the first class, having a central and 
 beautiful situation on a wide and leading thoroughfare. 
 Next door are the post and telegraph offices ; in the im- 
 mediate vicinity are the Royal Victoria Park, the 
 theatre, the Assembly Rooms and the attractive Cres- 
 cents of the city ; the principal baths are within walking 
 distance and the railway stations are reached by cab in 
 five minutes. The public rooms are handsomely fitted 
 up and the bedrooms are luxurious in size and very 
 home-like. Meals are served at small tables and the 
 tariff is moderate. It is essentially a house for the
 
 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 119 
 
 patronage of families. E. Ashcroft, who is proprietor 
 of the St. Vincent Rocks Hotel in Clifton, Bristol, is 
 proprietor of the York House Hotel at Bath. 
 
 The Great Western Railway which takes you to Bath, 
 from Paddington station in London (one hundred and 
 seven miles) in 2# hours, is one of the important British 
 roads. By the Great Western you go to Torquay, and 
 Plymouth, on the southwest coast, and to such interest- 
 ing points as Warwick, Stratford-upon-Avon, the old 
 town of Chester and beautiful Leamington. The road 
 traverses a lovely part of the country. En route you 
 get a glimpse of Windsor Castle and pass through Tap- 
 low and Maidenhead on the Thames, the rails or 
 "metals," as they are called in England, skirting the 
 river for many miles, affording delightful views of the 
 Thames not a wide sheet of water but very picturesque 
 in this region. 
 
 Long before you approach Bath the Avon is sighted, 
 and as you near the station the eye is greeted by the 
 noble hills which surround the ancient city.
 
 TAK1N' NOTES 
 
 IN EDINBORO' TOWN. 
 
 Singular that more Americans do not ' ' take in " Scot- 
 land when they are making the grand tour. Its historic 
 interest and its scenic beauty 'are great. Glasgow is 
 reached direct from New York, by the fine fleet of An- 
 chor boats, numbered among which are the " Furnes- 
 sia," the " Devonia " and the " City of Rome." Except- 
 ing the last named the Scotch boats are slow in these 
 days of " racers " and " greyhounds," but they are very 
 comfortable vessels, as I know, from experience, and I 
 have crossed in seven days by the "Rome" crossed, 
 that is, from Queenstown to New York. 
 
 If you don't care about bustling, busy Glasgow, with 
 its smoke and its dirt, bonnie Edinburgh is distant only 
 sixty-five minutes by express trains of the Caledonian 
 railway, one of the best built and best equipped roads 
 in Great Britain. 
 
 It hasn't the commerce of Glasgow, not being a sea- 
 port, but it is the cleanest city I ever visited, and one of 
 the most beautiful. Many travellers consider London 
 the most interesting city in the world, but to a casual 
 observer, five of the most attractive cities in Europe arc 
 Rome, Paris, Vienna, Venice and Edinburgh. 
 
 Edinburgh is built entirely of granite and freestone. 
 You don't see a brick excepting in a very few and very 
 tall factory chimneys. To some eyes this is monoton- 
 ous ; to mine it is pleasing. It looks, and it is, substan- 
 tial, solid and strong. 
 
 Don't come at any time, not even in August, without 
 winter clothing. The winds are keen and cutting.
 
 TAKIN' NOTES 121 
 
 Umbrella and "waterproof" are indispensable; over- 
 shoes, also, if it is your habit to wear them, for "the 
 rain it raineth every day " so to speak. This is not 
 the remark of a hasty tourist. I have been making 
 trips to Scotland for the past twenty years and I have 
 stayed there for weeks at a time. 
 
 It is cool here and rain is frequent, but everything in 
 this life has its compensation. This is the twentieth day 
 of August, 1891, and we have strawberries for breakfast 
 every morning and fresh green peas are in season. 
 Large, luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a 
 quart. Edinburgh, remember, is four hundred miles 
 north of London. The twilight is long and late. I was 
 reading a badly-printed Scotch newspaper this evening 
 by daylight at half-past eight. 
 
 Labor is cheap here, and yet boys do men's work, such 
 as driving carts and sweeping the streets. 
 
 The drives in and about Edinburgh are very attract- 
 ive, and there are no better roads anywhere. 
 
 There are tram-cars in the city : fare, inside, two 
 pence ; " on top," one penny. There are also two lines 
 of cable cars. 
 
 In a " distillery agent's" window, in Princes street, I 
 saw flasks of wine marked "two shillings." I stepped 
 in and bought a flask. "One penny more," remarked 
 the salesman. "For what," said I, inquiringly. " For 
 the cork." When I reached my hotel I applied a cork- 
 screw ; it wouldn't budge. The penny "cork" was a 
 glass stopper with a "worm," to screw on and off. 
 
 It strikes a- stranger as rather odd to see men and boys 
 carry so much on their heads and to see them balance 
 their loads with such nicety. Instead of using small, 
 light push carts, or delivering goods in baskets hanging 
 on the arm, as is done in New York, Edinburgh boys 
 use a tray or flat board with an edge turned up, in which 
 they carry vegetables, meat, poultry, fruit, etc. This 
 tray is placed on the head and is scarcely ever touched
 
 122 TAK1N' NOTES. 
 
 by the hand except to load or unload. The head in 
 Edinburgh is made to do good physical service. 
 
 The house still stands, and is likely to stand for cen- 
 turies, in which Walter Scott lived for years, and in 
 which he wrote several of his novels. It is of granite, 
 with a rounded (swelled) front, three stories high and 
 about thirty feet wide. You must look it up when you 
 go to Edinburgh No. 39 Castle street. It is now used for 
 office purposes, and is tenanted by doctors, lawyers, civil 
 engineers and the like. In the transom window, over the 
 door, you will see a small marble bust of the novelist. 
 
 Princes street, the principal street, is not very long, 
 only about one mile, but as far as it goes it is not easily 
 surpassed in any city. On one side are the principal 
 hotels and business blocks, all of granite or freestone ; 
 on the other side are the handsome Princes Gardens 
 with monuments and the magnificent Art Institute in 
 the foreground, and in the background such buildings as 
 the Castle, several churches and the Bank of Scotland. 
 
 The gardens, with their terraces, gravel walks, foun- 
 tains, rustic seats, lawns and flower-beds are uncom- 
 monly attractive. It would seem that nowhere are the 
 flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in 
 the Princes Gardens. 
 
 Blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in 
 George street, not so crowded a thoroughfare as Princes 
 street, but in which a very select business is transacted. 
 
 Thomas Nelson & Sons have the largest book publish- 
 ing establishment in Scotland I was going to say in 
 Great Britain. Their business buildings cover a vast 
 space, and the late Mr. Nelson's residence, not far from 
 Holyrood Palace and Arthur's Seat, is one of the most 
 attractive private citizens' residences in this part of the 
 country. It was only two or three years ago, so a coach- 
 man informed me, that Mr. Nelson gave ten thousand 
 pounds to restore the front of the castle. 
 
 David Douglas, whose retail house is at No. 9 Castle
 
 TAKfN' NOTES. 133 
 
 street, makes a specialty of publishing and republishing 
 works of American authors, and finds his profit in it. 
 You may pick up on his counters almost anything of 
 Longfellow, Holmes, Lowell, Howells, Winter and 
 Aldrich. Winter's "Shakespeare in England" and a 
 later work, " Gray Days and Gold," were both published 
 by Douglas, duplicate plates being sent over to Mac- 
 millan of New York. 
 
 Talk of books being expensive in England : these 
 very books by Winter which Macmillan sells in New 
 York at seventy-five cents each, Douglas publishes at 
 two shillings ; in paper covers for one shilling twenty- 
 five cents. 
 
 Douglas's people tell me that Winter's books find a 
 ready sale in Great Britain. The critics and the reading 
 public are delighted with his sketches of English and 
 Scotch scenery, and especially with his scholarly and 
 beautiful descriptions of Stratford-on-Avon and Shake- 
 speare's country. They think that no author has writ- 
 ten with more reverence and feeling about Shakespeare. 
 They find "his language poetical and his style artistic, 
 with a Meissonier-like finish." 
 
 FRUITS AND FLOWERS. In Scotland herrings are al- 
 ways sold by pairs, haddocks by threes. In England 
 and Scotland fruit is sold by the pound, so are vegeta- 
 bles : and this fair and excellent method proves satis- 
 factory to buyer and seller. Flowers and fruit are sold 
 in the same shop : the signs read, " fruiterer and florist. " 
 Flowers are very high in price. They use growing 
 flowers and living plants in pots very freely to decorate 
 the dinner table, but this idea, which is pretty enough 
 in its way, is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms. So 
 many tall plants make the table look dark and heavy, 
 and the broad leaves prevent you from seeing your 
 neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of 
 the table, for in some hotels they still persist in using 
 the old-fashioned long tables which are neither home-
 
 124 TAKIN' NOTES. 
 
 like nor comfortable. Choice fruit, being either im- 
 ported from the warmer climates or grown under glass, 
 is very expensive in the British kingdom. You pay 
 sixpence or a shilling for a peach or nectarine ; two 
 shillings each for choice varieties. The largest and 
 handsomest peach ever grown, possibly, or certainly 
 ever shown, was exhibited last summer in a shop win- 
 dow in Buchanan street, Glasgow. It weighed eighteen 
 ounces, price three-and-sixpence. 
 
 The capital of Scotland is always spelled Edinburgh, 
 but is always pronounced Edinbfcro'. 
 
 In the stamp department of the post-office in Edin- 
 burgh there is a shallow indentation about four inches 
 square in the table, in which a piece of felt is kept con- 
 stantly damp. Instead of putting the stamp on your 
 tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it 
 on the envelope. Small matter, but very convenient, and 
 shows thoughtfulness on the part of the authorities. 
 
 STREET RELIGION. There's a great deal of poverty 
 and drunkenness in Edinburgh, but there is also a great 
 deal of religion. All the churches are well attended on 
 Sunday, and there are preaching, praying and singing 
 in the public streets. Church choirs, men and women, 
 stand and sing in the public highways. In the lower 
 quarters of the city they attract people with a harmon- 
 ium, which is wheeled about from place to place. Passers- 
 by stop, join in the singing, and in fine weather uncover 
 their heads. The singers are not paid for their services. 
 
 THE DOGS. Here's a hint for the society which Mr. 
 Henry Bcrgh founded : On the sidewalk in front of 
 large shops and public buildings in Glasgow and Edin- 
 burgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels filled 
 with water for passing dogs. The vessel is simply and 
 legibly marked " DOG." Probably the dogs cannot read, 
 but they seem to know or to "nose out" the shops 
 where such a humane practice is carried out. But a cer- 
 tain Scotch editor contends that Scotch dogs can read.
 
 TAKIN' NOTES. 135 
 
 INDIA RUBBER PAVEMENT. The attention of every 
 stranger who walks in Princes street, Edinburgh, is 
 immediately arrested as soon as he gets in front of a 
 certain shop, nearly opposite the castle, where rubber 
 goods are sold. His attention is arrested because he 
 finds himself on a yielding pavement. It is a rubber 
 " sidewalk " (as we say in New York), and was laid 
 there by the enterprising shopkeeper. It is very pleas- 
 ant and comfortable to walk on, and so durable that the 
 authorities have talked about putting down rubber 
 pavements on both sides of Princes street. 
 
 GLASGOW UNIVERSITY. There is not much for the 
 tourist to see in Glasgow except the university, the 
 cathedral, founded in the fourteenth century, and the 
 municipal buildings. But the first-named is worth walk- 
 ing many miles to visit, if one is interested in such 
 things. I spent several hours in the university with 
 pleasure and profit. This university, Glasgow people 
 claim, is the finest in Scotland. It accommodates twenty- 
 three hundred students who pay an average of forty 
 pounds a year. It is generously endowed. The build- 
 ings are of granite and present a noble appearance, 
 standing on very high ground in their own large park, 
 which is beautifully laid out with terraces, flower beds 
 and gravel walks. There are some grand old trees in 
 the park, and a pretty winding lake, over which are 
 thrown many picturesque bridges. Though it is a seat 
 of learning, you will not expect the services of a college 
 professor as a cicerone, but you might naturally expect 
 to hear fair English spoken. The liveried servant who 
 guides you will tell you, with strong aspirations, of the 
 " helementary " classes and the " school of harts. " In 
 describing the modus operandi of taking the gold medal, 
 the graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair, which 
 is several hundred years old, you will be told "it's a 
 very 'igh honor." 
 
 In the " Edinburgh Cafe," a fairish kind of restaurant
 
 126 TAKIN' NOTES. 
 
 in Princes street, opposite the Scott monument, a penny 
 is charged for the privilege of washing your hands, and 
 a penny for the use of a napkin. The majority of this 
 cafe's customers, however, if the truth must be told, 
 make a mouchoir serve for a serviette. 
 
 SLIPPERS SUPPLIED FREE. If you go to Philp's Cock- 
 burn (pronounced Coburn) Hotel in Edinburgh, it mat- 
 ters not if you have forgotten to pack your slippers in 
 your portmanteau, for the porter will provide you with 
 a pair. One hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are 
 kept at this hotel for the use of guests. A foot of any 
 size can be accommodated, and there is no charge. 
 
 Smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of Scotch hotels, 
 and a notice to that effect is posted in each room. 
 "Smoking rooms "are provided, and only such apart- 
 ment may be used for this purpose. They are both 
 smoky and dingy. 
 
 AN EDINBURGH DOLLAR DINNER. I have dined at the 
 leading hotels in New York, at "The States, " in Saratoga, 
 the Breslin, at Lake Hopatcong, and my experience in- 
 cludes the leading hotels in the principal European cap- 
 itals, and the leading hotels in the Southern and far 
 Western States, as far as California, yet I can say that 
 the table d'hdte dinner served at Philp's Cockburn Hotel, 
 Edinburgh (one Sunday last summer), will rank with 
 the fare at any of these houses, and it excels the table 
 d'hote at some high-priced hotels in London and Paris. 
 Yet the price charged for this dinner was very moder- 
 ate only four shillings, about one dollar. The dinner 
 included grouse, peaches, strawberries and nectarines, 
 and from the hare soup down to the dessert, everything 
 was well cooked and nicely served. The charge is re- 
 markably moderate when it is understood that this is a 
 ' ' temperance house, " and when you know that the choice 
 fruit is grown under glass at high cost. The dinner would 
 have been perfect with cafJnoir at the close, but this is 
 not served in British hotels without additional charge.
 
 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 
 
 If Baltimore is the monumental city of the United 
 States, Edinburgh may surely be called the monument- 
 al city of the United Kingdom. The majority of its 
 public buildings, of freestone or granite, are noble 
 structures standing on hills in the heart of the city, and 
 for their situation alone would command admiration 
 the old Castle, Nelson monument, the city prison, the 
 National Gallery, the Bank of Scotland, etc. No bank 
 in the world occupies a more commandiug site than the 
 one just named. Owing to the peculiar natural forma- 
 tion of the land upon which the city is built, an observer 
 may stand in one spot in Edinburgh (say the Waverley 
 Gardens) and see a greater number of splendid build- 
 ings at a glance than may be seen simultaneously from 
 the level in any other city. 
 
 Not among the largest by any means but among the 
 most interesting must be reckoned the Burns monument, 
 which occupies a high position near its still higher 
 neighbor, the Nelson monument, on Calton Hill. The 
 Burns monument was built in 1830 for the purpose of 
 containing a marble statue of the poet by Flaxman. 
 The building, of freestone, is a circular temple on a 
 quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of 
 twelve Corinthian columns which support an entabla- 
 ture and cornice. Over this is a cupola, a restoration of 
 the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The whole is 
 surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins. 
 The extreme height of the structure is fifty feet, the 
 twelve outside columns are fourteen feet high and the 
 twelve inside columns are ten feet high. The latter 
 
 127
 
 128 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 
 
 are of freestone painted to represent variegated marble. 
 The cost of the monument and statue was three thou- 
 sand three hundred pounds sterling (about sixteen thoti- 
 sand five hundred dollars) not a large sum considering 
 the result attained. 
 
 Besides the statue of the poet, the monument holds a 
 number of relics letters written by or to Burns, the 
 worm-eaten three-legged stool upon which the poet sat 
 in 1 786 and '87 while correcting the proofs of his poems, 
 and other things of interest. A letter from the poet to 
 his cousin, James Burness, and dated Lochee, aist June, 
 1783, complains of the depressed state of the country 
 during the American war. As is well known, the poet 
 spelled his name Burness (his family name) until the 
 publication of his poems in 1786. Another letter to his 
 cousin, dated Mossgiel, August 3, 1784, describes the 
 fanatical religious sect that had sprung up in the. neigh- 
 borhood of Dumfries headed by a mad woman named 
 Buchan. Hence they called themselves Buchanites. 
 The subjoined manuscript poem accompanied a gift of 
 fresh eggs from Burns's wife to Alexander Findlater : 
 
 Dear sir, our lacky humbly begs 
 Yell pree her caller new-laid Eggs 
 And grant the cock may keep his legs 
 
 Aboon the chuckies. 
 Ellesland, December 22, 1788. 
 
 One of the most interesting letters is here given in 
 full: 
 To 
 
 Mr. James Burness 
 
 Writer, Montrose. 
 My Dear Cousin : 
 
 When yoti offered me money assistance, little did I 
 think I should want it so soon. A rascal of a haber- 
 dasher to whom I owe a considerable bill, taking into 
 his head that I am dying, has commenced a process 
 against me and will infallibly put my emaciated body 
 into jail. Will you be so good as to accommodate me,
 
 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 129 
 
 and that by return of post, with ten pounds. O, James, 
 did you know the pride of my heart you would feel doubly 
 for me. Alas, I am not used to beg. The worse of it is 
 my health was coming about finely, you know, and my 
 physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits 
 are half my disease Guess then my horrors since this 
 business began. If I had it settled I would be, I think, 
 quite well in a manner. O, do not disappoint me. But 
 strong necessity's curst command.* I have been think- 
 ing over my brother's affairs, and I fear I must cut him 
 up, but on this I will correspond at another time, par- 
 ticularly as I shall - your advice. Forgive me for 
 once more mention by return of post save me from the 
 horrors of a jail. 
 
 My compliments to my friend James, and to all the 
 rest. I do not know what I have written, the subject is 
 so horrible I dare not look it over again. Farewell, 
 ... , : . ROBERT BURNS. 
 
 JULY 12, Tewsday. 
 
 The letter to John Tennent Auchenbey, thanking him 
 for his kind present of a cask of whiskey, and praising 
 its strength and good quality, betrayed the poet's great 
 weakness. It is dated Eltenland. December 22, 1788. 
 
 Another characteristic letter in a different strain, is 
 worth quoting in full : 
 
 To Mrs. Dunlop, 
 
 Of Dunlop. 
 
 I have received twins, dear madam, more than once, 
 but scarcely ever with more pleasure than when I re- 
 ceived yours of the i2th instant. To make myself un- 
 derstood, I had wrote to Mr. Graham inclosing my poem 
 addressed to him, and the same post that favored me 
 with yours brought me an answer from him. It was 
 dated the very day he had received mine, and I am 
 quite at a loss to say whether it was more polite or kind. 
 Your criticisms, my honored benefactress, are truly the . 
 work of a friend. They are not the blasting depreda- 
 tions of a eanker-toothecl caterpillar critic, nor are they 
 fair statements of cold impartiality balancing with un- 
 feeling exactitude the pro and con of an author's merits ; 
 they are the judicious observations of animated friend- 
 ship selecting the beauties of the pen. I have just
 
 130 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 
 
 arrived from Nithsdale and will be here a fortnight. I 
 was on horseback this morning (for between my wife 
 and my farm is just forty-six miles) by three o'clock. 
 As I jogged on in the dark I was taken with a poetic fit 
 
 as follows : Mrs. T. , of C . Lamentations for 
 
 the death of her son, an uncommonly promising youth 
 of eighteen or nineteen years of age : 
 
 Fate gave the wound the arrow sped 
 And pierced my darling's heart. 
 
 You will not send me your poetic rambles, but you see 
 I am no niggard of mine. I am ,sure your impromptus 
 gave me double pleasure. What falls from your pen 
 can be neither uninteresting in itself nor indifferent to 
 me. The one fault you find is just, but I cannot please 
 myself in an emendation. 
 
 I will pay the sapient-potent George [reference to 
 postage] most cheerfully to hearfrom you ere I leave 
 Ayrshire. I have the honor to be, dear madam, your 
 much obliged, humble servant, ROBERT BURNS. 
 
 Among other relics are the lease or tack of the farm 
 of Ellesland taken from Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, 
 the gentleman who launched the first steamboat in the 
 world in 1788 ; the manuscript of a poem, " The Kirk's 
 Alarm ; " excise return by the poet from Dumfries dis- 
 trict, 1794; manuscript poems by Clarinda, "Autumn 
 of Life ; " portion of manuscript of Kilmarnock edition, 
 1 786 ; portraits of the poet by Nasmyth, Skewing and 
 Taylor. Relics of the poet's personal property are not 
 wanting. There is a wooden trencher or cheese plate 
 from Possie Nancy's, where Burns wrote "The Jolly 
 Beggars;" a wine glass used by the poet; an oak 
 mallet made from the rafter of Alloway's auld haunted 
 kirk and used by Burns as deputy master of the Tar- 
 bolton Mason Lodge, 1794; a sword cane used by him 
 while in the excise, and his favorite knife and fork. 
 There is also a curious delft jug which belonged to Mrs. 
 Bruce, of Clackmanan, a friend of Burns. She was a 
 descendant of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, and on 
 Burns's last visit she knighted him with an old sword
 
 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 131 
 
 that belonged to the king ; saying "she had as much 
 right to do so as any other body. " 
 
 Others matters of interest to those who love the poet 
 are a snuff-box made from the printing press at which 
 his first edition of poems was printed in Kilmarnock, 
 1 786 ; a sneeshan mull, or snuff horn, which belonged to 
 Highland Mary's father, 1758 ; Indian china cup and 
 saucer that belonged to Miss Alexander, the bonny lass 
 of Balochmyll ; lock of hair which belonged to Miss 
 Lorimer, the lassie wi' the tent white locks ; curious 
 round oak silver-mounted snuff-box used by the poet, 
 and presented to his trusty friend, George Richmond, 
 1788 ; an apple presented by the poet to his brother 
 Gilbert's wife as a wedding gift. 
 
 Among the relics preserved in frames and hung on 
 the walls is the printed newspaper report of Burns's 
 death. This occurred at Dumfries, July 21, 1796, and 
 the report appeared in the London Herald of July 27 
 nearly one week after. The London Herald 'of that day 
 was a very small sheet, about fifteen inches long and 
 only four columns wide, price fourpence halfpenny a 
 copy. The obituary notice is unique, and is worth re- 
 producing to-day : 
 
 DEATH OF* MR. ROBERT BURNS, 
 THE CELEBRATED POET. 
 
 " On the 2 ist instant died at Dumfries, after a linger- 
 ing illness, the celebrated Robert Burns. His poetical 
 compositions, distinguished equally by the force of 
 native humor, by the warmth and tenderness of passion, 
 and by the glowing touches of a descriptive pencil, will 
 remain a lasting monument of the vigor and versatility 
 of a mind, guided only by the light of nature and the 
 inspirations of genius. The public, to whose amusement 
 he so largely contributed, will learn with regret that 
 the last months of his short life were spent in sickness 
 and indigence, and his widow with five infant children, 
 and' in the hourly expectation of a sixth, is now left 
 without any resource but what she may hope from the 
 regard due to the memory of her husband. "
 
 132 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 
 
 Monuments, however, are not Edinburgh's only at- 
 tractions, but do not count on seeing the sights there on 
 Sunday. The day is closely and strictly observed. 
 London is surely quiet enough on a Sunday, but it is 
 gayety itself when compared with the capital of Scot- 
 land. Not a shop is open ; even the drug shops are 
 open only during two hours. Everything is shut as 
 tight as a drum in Edinburgh except the churches, and 
 to these you must either walk or hire a carriage, for not 
 a wheel of an omnibus or car turns on Sunday. 
 
 THE BURNS MONUMENT.
 
 CROSSING THE CHANNEL 
 
 There are many ways of "crossing" between the 
 Continent and the English coast, or vice versa. The 
 best steamers between England and Holland are those 
 which go from Rotterdam to Harwich. Harwich (An- 
 glice, Harridge) is about a two hours' run up to London. 
 I have tried the different ways of crossing from the 
 French coast to England via Newhaven and Dieppe, 
 Folkstone and Boulogne, and Calais and Dover. The 
 last route is by far the best. It would be preferred 
 over all others, if for only one reason, because it is the 
 shortest, the English Channel being "disagreeable" at 
 least one half the year. The Calais and Dover boats 
 are advertised to make the trip between the two points 
 "in seventy minutes," and they do actually make it in 
 one hour and a quarter. The other routes are much 
 longer. No small craft that ply on the English waters 
 are as beautiful in their appointments as our Hudson 
 river boats, or those for instance of the Fall River line, 
 but they are staunch and swift, and they are manned by 
 as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a deck. The 
 English boats are proof against wind and wave, the 
 only danger being from fire or fog, but as they are 
 officered by skillful and experienced navigators, and 
 are very carefully handled, the danger is reduced to a 
 minimum. 
 
 133
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 
 
 Paris is not in the least behind other cities in the 
 number of its hotels nor in the variety of accommoda- 
 tions offered. Your choice must depend first upon the 
 length of your purse ; second, iipon the length of your 
 stay ; third, the purpose of your visit. The number in 
 the party and their individual tastes and requirements 
 must also be taken into account. 
 
 I have not passed near so much time in Paris as in 
 London. The most I can do is to suggest some of the 
 choicest hotels oxA pensions with which I am acquainted, 
 giving their rates and distinctive features. 
 
 For information as to Where to Dine in Paris I must 
 refer the reader to a chapter further on, entitled " The 
 Restaurants of Paris," by the late writer and con- 
 noisseur in many arts, Mr. Theodore Child. It first 
 appeared in a book entitled " Living Paris," which was 
 published in London four years ago by Ward & Dow- 
 ney, and is the most complete and comprehensive Guide 
 to Paris I have ever seen. 
 
 THE GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 The Grand Hotel is one of the largest and most ex- 
 pensive. It is grand in size ; grand in appointments. It 
 is not a cheap house in any sense of that term, and pos- 
 sibly for that reason is largely patronized by Americans. 
 The building occupies a square block facing that mag- 
 nificent street, Avenue de 1' Opera, diagonally across 
 
 134
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 135 
 
 from the Grand Opera House. It encloses a large court- 
 yard with fountains and parterres. The caves of the 
 Grand are ranked as one of the sights of Paris ; they are 
 stocked with the choicest of wines. Rooms from six 
 francs per day ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, five 
 francs ; table d'hote dinner, eight francs with wine. 
 Board and lodging complete (American plan), from 
 twenty francs per day. 
 
 HOTEL CONTINENTAL. 
 
 The Continental, on the corner of the rue de Rivoli 
 and rue Castiglione, is opposite the gardens of the 
 Tuileries. Near by are Hotel des Invalides, the Madel- 
 eine, the Eiffel Tower and other interesting buildings. 
 It is large and elegant grander than the Grand. The 
 grounds, with the structure and furnishing are said to 
 have cost some millions of francs. 
 
 The rates at the Continental are a little lower than at 
 the Grand. They range all the way from five francs to 
 thirty-five francs per day for room ; lights and attend- 
 ance extra. Breakfast of coffee, chocolate or tea with 
 rolls, from one to two francs ; breakfast proper, or de- 
 jeuner a la fourchette, five francs, wine and coffee in- 
 cluded. Table d'hote dinner, seven francs. At many 
 Paris hotels wine is included in the charge for dinner, 
 but at the Continental on Sundays, champagne as well 
 as vin ordinaire is served free, but not, as in the case of 
 the latter, in unlimited quantity. 
 
 HOTEL MEURICE. 
 
 Smaller than these two hotels and for that reason 
 thought by some to be more select is the Hotel Meurice, 
 in rue de Rivoli. It is near rue Castiglione and oppo-
 
 136 PARIS HOTELS. 
 
 site the Tuileries gardens, altogether a beautiful loca- 
 tion. Issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning 
 to the left, a few minutes walk brings you to the Palais 
 Royal and the Louvre galleries ; or turning to the right a 
 few steps bring you past the hotel Continental, to Place 
 de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees. It may seem 
 strange to those who have not lived in continental 
 hotels, to note that the hotel Meurice ' is scrupulously 
 clean. You observe this in its beautiful courtyard, in 
 its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept bed- 
 rooms. 
 
 The hotel is patronized by leading New York families 
 and by the best English society, and it ranks as does 
 the Brunswick or the Victoria in New York. The cuisine 
 of the house is famous and its cellars contain rare wines. 
 Hotel Meurice was established in 1815 and its present 
 proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years. If 
 your stay in Paris is to cover a week or more, you 
 and especially the ladies of your party will find this 
 hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn ; Bae- 
 deker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are 
 accompanied by ladies. Hotel Meurice has electric 
 light, and new plumbing was put in a few years ago. 
 It accommodates two hundred guests. Single rooms 
 from five francs per day ; apartments from fifteen to 
 one hundred francs. Table d'hote dinner, at six P.M., 
 six francs. Proprietor, H. Scheurich ; address, 228 rue 
 de Rivoli. 
 
 HOTEL CHATHAM. 
 
 Hotel Chatham is justly famed as one of the most ele- 
 gantly appointed of Paris hotels. I have known it for 
 twenty years, and for twenty-five years it has been the
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 137 
 
 temporary home of travellers of all nations, those who 
 demand the best hotel accommodations, and for which 
 you pay only a moderate price. Single rooms from five 
 francs per day ; luncheon, four francs ; table d'hote 
 dinner, six francs. Hotel Chatham occupies a central 
 location, near the Opera, rue de la Paix, the theatres, 
 and the best shopping streets. The first feature of the 
 Hotel Chatham that attracts attention is the large, light, 
 and spacious courtyard, fifty by one hundred feet. It 
 makes an impression that gains in favor when you see 
 the apartments. The grand salon, the reading-room and 
 cafe look out upon this courtyard, which is embellished 
 with flowers. 
 
 The sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished, 
 have plenty of light and good ventilation. There are 
 elegant suites, also choice single and double rooms. 
 The decorations are in good taste. In the best apart- 
 ments the walls are not hung with paper, but are cov- 
 ered with stuffs a mixture of worsted and soft silks. 
 Hot and cold water on every floor. Two features especi- 
 ally commend themselves to those who are acquainted 
 with foreign hotels ; there are two Otis elevators, and 
 the house is lighted throughout by electricity shed- 
 ding a light in the rooms, not of one bougie, but of 
 twenty. The cuisine represents the perfection of the 
 culinary art, and the wine-cellars are celebrated for 
 their famous vintages. 
 
 The Hotel Chatham is the home of the best people 
 and many Americans annually seek its hospitality. The 
 Harpers, for instance, members of the great publishing 
 house, are among its regular guests. The present pro- 
 prietor is M. H. Holzschuch, son of the late owner, 
 under whom the house acquired its wide fame. Hotel 
 Chatham is at 17 and 19 rue Daunou, between rue de 
 la Paix and Boulevard des Capucines.
 
 138 PARIS HOTELS. 
 
 HOTEL BINDA. 
 
 Everybody in Paris knows the Hotel Binda, and it is 
 known by a great many people who have never been in 
 Paris. With New Yorkers the house is a favorite be- 
 cause it is kept by Mr. Charles Binda who for years was 
 manager of Delmonico's, and this settles at once and 
 satisfactorily the important question of cuisine. The 
 house was opened in 1878. It is solidly built of stone, 
 five stories high, and is an imposing structure. It stands 
 in rue de 1'Echelle, on a corner of the avenue de 1'Opera, 
 the principal business street of Paris, and probably the 
 handsomest shopping street in the world. It is most con- 
 veniently located for the principal places of interest- 
 the Grand Opera, Palais Royal, the Louvre galleries, 
 etc. One minute's walk brings you to the rue de Rivoli, 
 that wide open street, one side of which is flanked by 
 the open and beautiful gardens of the Tuileries. 
 
 If in the heat of a summer day in walking to Place 
 Vendome or to the Champs Elysees, you wish to avoid 
 sunny rue de Rivoli, shade is at your very door in the 
 narrow but picturesque rue St. Honore, which, with its 
 little shops, its hotels, old churches, etc., is a feature 
 of outdoor life in Paris. 
 
 The Grand Opera is at the other end of the Avenue 
 de 1'Opera, a short walk. But omnibuses pass the door, 
 by which you can reach any part of Paris at the expense 
 of a few sous. And, for that matter, it is only a thirty- 
 cent cab fare to the Grand Opera, to the offices of the 
 American Minister, Whitelaw Reid, in Avenue Hoche, or 
 to the Anglo- American Bank on the corner of Chaussee 
 d' An tin and rue Meyerbeer. Cocker will go fast enough 
 if by the course and slow enough (too slow) if by the 
 hour. 
 
 Instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in Paris 
 have, and which in some cases are useless, the space on
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 139 
 
 the ground floor is used by the Binda for a grand, glass- 
 enclosed reception and reading-room, beautifully lighted 
 by day and by night. There is also a grand drawing- 
 room and a smoking-room, which unlike the dingy 
 rooms turned over to the use of men in some English 
 hotels is, in the Binda, a very bright and attractive 
 apartment. 
 
 All the apartments are comfortably and tastefully 
 furnished, but some of the rooms are furnished in pala- 
 tial style. There are baths on every floor and some 
 rooms have running water. Of course there are electric 
 lights and an ascenseur, Anglice "lift." But for all its 
 grandeur, one may live at the Binda at moderate cost. 
 
 If you know about how wide you wish to open your 
 purse in selecting apartments you can tell as precisely 
 as you could in an American hotel how much your bill 
 will amount to for a stay of five days or five weeks. Single 
 rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day ; 
 double rooms from fourteen to thirty francs. Special 
 rates, lower than these, are made to guests remaining a 
 length of time. Here is the tariff for the dining-room : 
 Plain breakfast (tea or chocolate) if. 5oc., about 30 
 cents ; table d'hote dinner, served at separate tables, 6f . , 
 servant's board 6f. per day. No charge is made for at- 
 tendance. 
 
 That Charles Binda is proprietor is guarantee that 
 the table is equal to the Windsor in New York, or 
 the Albemarle in London, and these satisfy the most 
 fastidious. Mr. Binda is famous for his cuisine, but he 
 prides himself most upon the quality of his guests. 
 He demands that above and beyond everything else 
 his house shall be select, and it is so in the fullest 
 sense. Mail address, No. n rue de 1'Echelle. Cable, 
 " Binda ; Paris."
 
 140 PARIS HOTELS. 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE. 
 
 There are several comparatively small but decidedly 
 pleasant hotels in rue Castiglione Hotel Liverpool, 
 Hotel Balmoral and Hotel Metropole. The last-named 
 is especially to be commended for its choice location, 
 the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms, its appetizing 
 cuisine, and its remarkably moderate charges. It is in 
 rue Castiglione, directly opposite the Continental ; two 
 blocks one way from the Column Vendome, two blocks 
 from the Place de la Concorde, near the Champs 
 Elysees, and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful 
 gardens of -the Tuileries. 
 
 Like the majority of Paris hotels, the Metropole 
 is entered by a coixrt-yard, but unlike some of them, 
 the ventilation and lighting of the house are good. It 
 has ample room for more than one hundred guests, and 
 they can be made very comfortable. 
 
 The house is kept on the American as well as on the 
 European plan. If you adopt the system which prevails 
 abroad, you may hire a single room as low as four 
 francs per day, or a double room for seven francs per 
 day. Breakfast, three francs ; luncheon, four francs ; 
 table d'hote dinner, five francs. This figure includes 
 good wine in quantum sufficit, as a medical man might 
 say. As at neai'ly all Continental hotels, "service" is 
 charged. In this instance it is one franc per day ; and 
 you pay for lights item seventy-five centimes, about 
 fifteen cents. 
 
 But if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and 
 save the bother of reckoning, you can stay at the 
 Metropole and your whole bill per day for board, lodging, 
 lights, wine, etc., will be the moderate sum of fifteen 
 francs (three dollars), which, considering the excellent 
 table and the attention you receive, is a low rate. 
 
 If you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set, the 
 Bristol is your hovise ; if you want to see and be with
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 141 
 
 Americans only, then select the Grand. The Continen- 
 tal, is the place for those who would feast their eyes on 
 palatial salons ; at the Metropole you will get into the 
 company of good people from different countries, you 
 can be quiet and comfortable and made to feel at home, 
 as is to be expected in a smaller house. Moreover, your 
 purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance with the 
 figures given above. Proprietor, X. Silvani ; address, 
 No. 6 rue Castiglione. 
 
 HOTEL DE LILLE ET D' ALBION, in rue St. Honore, is 
 not a very large house, but it is ranked among the best, 
 although its charges are quite moderate. It has baths, 
 lift, electric light and English billiard tables, its modern 
 contrivances including telephonic communication with 
 the leading European cities. The sanitary arrangements 
 are said to be perfect. The location is central for shop- 
 ping, for places of amusement and points of interest, 
 being near Place Vendome, Tuileries Gardens and the 
 Opera. Mail address, 223 rue St. Honore ; telegraph 
 address, Lillalbion, Paris. 
 
 HOTEL BRISTOL AND HOTEL DU RHIN both front on the 
 Place Vendome ; you can't miss them ; they are near 
 the tall and graceful Column Vendome which pierces 
 the sky from the centre of the square. There is no 
 question as to the excellence of either of these houses. 
 Both are patronized by a select class of patrons ; the 
 former is the home of the Prince of Wales when he 
 visits Paris. 
 
 HOTEL LIVERPOOL is patronized by the Astors. To 
 Americans this information conveys more than could be 
 detailed in a whole page of description. It is situated 
 at 1 1 rue Castiglione, a wide and fashionable thorough- 
 fare leading from Place Vendome to the Tuileries Gar- 
 dens. The house was recently newly fitted up and has 
 a hydraulic lift. There are large apartments for fami- 
 lies making a more or less prolonged stay ; smaller 
 apartments for transient guests.
 
 142 PARIS HOTELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L'ATHE'NE'E. Of hotels just as select as any 
 of those mentioned, there are a score or more. Among 
 them may be mentioned the Hotel de 1' Athenee, 1 5 rue 
 Scribe. It was recently enlarged, the whole of the 
 Theatre de 1'Athenee having been added, and the former, 
 dining-room is now converted into a reading room. There 
 are two bath-rooms on each floor. The appointments 
 include a parlor, a reading room, a restaurant a la carte, 
 and two private dining-rooms. There are 1 80 rooms in all, 
 which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day, but 
 there are not very many rooms in the house at four francs. 
 
 HOTEL CAMPBELL. The Hotel Campbell, at 61 and 63 
 Avenue de Friedland, has one of the best sites in Paris 
 for a family house. It stands on the highest ground, 
 the location being healthy, beautiful, select and fashion- 
 able a few steps from the Champs Elysees and the Arc 
 de Triomphe. The house is six stories high, built of 
 stone, and has an imposing front, standing on the corner 
 of rue Tilsit and avenue de Friedland, a wide and grand 
 boulevard. The salon is richly furnished. There is a 
 new dining-room covered with glass and flooded with 
 light. House heated by steam ; lift, electric light, all 
 modern contrivances. Mr. Arthur Geissler, the present 
 proprietor, took the house about three years ago, since 
 which time he has enlarged it, making also great 
 changes and improvements. Mr. Geissler 's native 
 tongue is German, but he converses easily in English, 
 speaks Italian and, of course, French. There are 
 accommodations for one hundred guests at from twelve 
 and a half francs per day for room and three meals, 
 everything included but wine and lights. Still more 
 moderate terms to families who make a protracted stay. 
 Address letters and telegrams "Hotel Campbell, Paris." 
 
 HOTEL DE CASTILLE. This is at No. 37 rue Cambon, a 
 narrow, but pleasant street running off from the Boule- 
 vard des Italiens, and leading to Place Vendome, a con- 
 venient place for those who desire to be near shopping
 
 PARIS HOTELS. 143 
 
 and amusement centres. From above the ground floor 
 there is a pleasing front outlook" the hotel standing 
 opposite the gardens attached to the residence of the 
 Minister of Justice. The public rooms, on the first floor, 
 are very pretty ; the bedrooms have high ceilings and 
 are richly furnished, many having pictures in oil on the 
 walls. Modern conveniences electric light, lift, baths, 
 hot and cold water on every floor. One hundred and 
 fifty guests accommodated. There is a large and' hand- 
 some courtyard in which, during warm weather, meals 
 are served, al fresco, under a decorated canopy. The 
 proprietor of Hotel Castille, James F. Wullschleger, is a 
 young Swiss. He speaks German fluently, as well as 
 Italian, and Americans will not find him at all deficient 
 in the English tongue. Breakfast, one and a half francs ; 
 luncheon, four francs ; dinner, five francs, wine not in- 
 cluded. Mail and cable address, " Hotel Castille, Paris." 
 HOTEL LA TREMOILLE. The Hotel Tremoille (for- 
 merly Hotel Pension Lafond) is in rue de la Tremoille, 
 a quiet, select and beautiful location, on the corner of 
 rue de la Tremoille and rue Boccador. The neighbor- 
 hood is known as the Quartier Marboeuf-Champs 
 Elysees, and the Arc de Triomphe is but a few steps 
 distant. The house has ascenseur, baths and water on 
 every floor ; the salon is handsome, and the bed-rooms 
 are beautifully furnished. Accommodation for one 
 hundred guests. Single rooms from six to ten francs 
 per day ; room for two persons from eight to twelve 
 francs per day. Breakfast from two to four francs ; 
 luncheon, from two to four francs ; seven o'clock din- 
 ner, five francs, wine not included. Arrangements for 
 complete board (three meals), rooms, service, every- 
 thing included, from ten to fifteen francs per day for 
 one person. Board for children under seven, six francs 
 per day. The house has not changed proprietors for 
 the past six years. Mail address, Madame Lafond, 14 
 rue de la Tremoille : cable. Lafhotel, Paris.
 
 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 
 
 But you are not forced to patronize any hotel, large 
 or small ; there are many very delightful pensions or 
 boarding houses in Paris. These some people prefer, if 
 their party includes ladies, or if they intend to make a 
 protracted stay. A few of th^se pensions are presided 
 over by American women. 
 
 THE VAN PELT PENSION at 69 Boulevard St. Michel is 
 kept by Mrs. E. L. Van Pelt, a New Orleans woman 
 who took with her to Paris the best American refer- 
 ences. This place has some features which commend 
 it to the stranger in Paris. Its location, facing the 
 Luxembourg Gardens, is near the famous art schools 
 and the Sorbonne, where free lectures are given, thus 
 making this a desirable residence for students. It is 
 across the Seine, and yet within comparatively easy 
 access by omnibus, cab or train to all parts of Paris and 
 environs. The house stands on a corner, and all the 
 rooms are exposed to the sun and air. Mrs. Van Pelt 
 has accommodation for thirty guests. Rates from $2. 50 
 to $3 per day, according to season and length of stay. 
 Average about seventy-five francs per week ; no wine. 
 
 AMERICAN FAMILY HOME. This term is appropriately 
 applied to the pension de famille presided over by a 
 young French widow, whose personal beauty and grace 
 of manner are more than marked. Reference is made to 
 Madame Veuve Leon Glatz, who is assisted in her duties 
 by her sister. Both of them speak English with a pretty 
 and piquant accent. The Glatz pension is in rue de 
 Clichy, five minutes distant from St. Lazare Station and 
 Park Monceau ; ten minutes from la Madeleine and the 
 Opera. It was built in 1885 and is sanitarily correct ; 
 
 144
 
 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 145 
 
 supplied with new spring water from the new water 
 works of Paris. There is a really grand salon in which 
 musicales are given weekly. In the rear of this is a large 
 and handsome garden, neatly kept a very pretty loung- 
 ing place on summer evenings. There are baths in the 
 house, the bedrooms are nicely furnished, the service is 
 good, and last, and by no means least worthy of note, 
 is the table, which is liberally supplied ; the best as to 
 quality. But Madame Glatz at present has only room 
 for thirty guests and her house is in such demand that 
 you must engage rooms months, or at least weeks, in 
 advance. Terms, eight to fourteen francs per day, 
 which is the full charge ; no extras, except, possibly, for 
 lights. This is a favorite place with Americans of 
 refinement ; others are not admitted to Madame Glatz's 
 charming family circle. Address, 45 rue de Clichy. 
 
 THE POWERS PENSION. One of the most desirable 
 pensions in Paris, especially desirable for Americans, is 
 kept not by a "charming Frenchwoman," nor by a 
 "hearty" Britisher, but by a couple of cultivated, good 
 Americans, well-known in New York Mr. and Mrs. J. 
 G. Powers, Jr. The house is in a high and delightful 
 location, in the American quarter, 69 Avenue d'Antin. 
 near the Champs Elysees. Mrs. Powers claims that it 
 is "the most elegant and comfortable pension in Eu- 
 rope, " and I, who have had some experience in hotels and 
 pensions of the first rank, do not contradict the state- 
 ment. I am not given to using the adjective " elegant " 
 too freely, but elegant and tasteful are words that come 
 to mind without summoning, in speaking of the Powers 
 Pension. The salon is a beautiful apartment ; yes, un- 
 commonly beautiful. It is on Monday evenings more 
 particularly that this salon looks its best, when the re- 
 ceptions are held. The house, it is well worth noting, 
 has been enlarged and greatly improved since last year. 
 Mrs. Powers has the entire building, now, with sixty 
 bedrooms. A hydraulic lift has been put in, and the
 
 146 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 
 
 driveway which led from avenue D'Antin to the street 
 parallel with it at the back, has been done away with. 
 The space thus gained has been added to the dining- 
 room, so that ninety guests can now sit down at one 
 time. The Powers pension is a select family home in 
 the strictest sense of the term, and the rates for board 
 are quite reasonable ; pleasant rooms and three meals 
 from ten francs per day. Make a note of the address 
 69 Avenue d'Antin. 
 
 A QUIET PENSION FOR AMERICANS. Number 7 Ave- 
 nue du Trocadero is in the American residential quar- 
 ter, three minutes' walk from the American Church. 
 The avenue is handsome and very wide, admitting of 
 an equestrian road and three rows of fine old sycamores 
 between the sidewalks. No. 7 has been kept as a pen- 
 sion since 1872, and it is now under the care of two 
 " good Americans," who have had it for six years, and 
 who have won the patronage of a quiet class of English 
 people, the aim of the Seymours being to make it an 
 attractive, comfortable, Christian home. Forty-five 
 guests accommodated. Trams and 'buses pass the door 
 ever}'' few minutes ; boats, within two minutes' walk, to 
 all parts of the Seine. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour do not 
 pretend to keep a fashionable or an elegant house for 
 people having long purses and luxurious tastes, but the 
 beds are good, the rooms look cozy and comfortable, 
 and they claim that ' ' the cuisine is of the best. " The 
 rates at 'Ca^ pension are low from $i. 50 to $2. 50 per day. 
 
 MRS. CROWTHER'S is a select pension in which you will 
 be entertained if you are willing to furnish references. 
 This Mrs. Crowther will most gladly do, and thus, as a 
 former famous commander of the New York Seventh 
 Regiment used to say, "honors are divided." I am 
 acquainted with Americans who have stayed with Mrs. 
 Crowther for months at a time so pleased were they 
 with their surroundings and their host. Although select 
 and choice and nicely situated, near the much-talked-of-
 
 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 
 
 147 
 
 Arc de Triomphe, the rates here are moderate from 
 ten dollars a week. Address, Mrs. Crovvther, No. 6 rue 
 de Belloy. 
 
 VILLENEUVE'S HOUSE. This is called an "American 
 Pension," because it is largely patronized by Americans. 
 The house has what so many New Yorkers demand 
 southern exposure ; it has elevator, baths, etc. , and is 
 tastefully furnished. The location, in rue Boccador, is 
 most pleasant in the Champs Ely sees district. Address 
 No. 1 2 rue Boccador. 
 
 " A FRENCH FAMILY HOME," where French lessons are 
 given, is Mme. Tonnot's, in that attractive avenue 
 named for Baron Haussmann, who did so much to im- 
 prove Paris by widening the streets and beautifying the 
 city. Tonnot's is convenient to avenue de 1'Opera, the 
 opera house and the shopping district. Address, No. 
 52 bis Boulevard Haussmann.
 
 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 
 
 BY THEODORE CHILD. 
 
 In order to anticipate criticism, and to avoid disap- 
 pointment, it may be well to state at once that the art 
 of cookery is in a terrible state of decadence in Paris. 
 The men of the present generation do not seem to have 
 the sentiment of the table ; they know neither its varied 
 resources nor its infinite refinements ; their palates are 
 dull, and they are content to eat rather than to dine. 
 This decadence may be remarked both in private and in 
 public establishments. The gourmet nowadays is a 
 rarity, and a man of thirty years of age who knows how 
 to order a dinner is a still greater rarity. One might 
 discover many causes of this decline of a delicate art. 
 The conditions of contemporary life, the hurry and un- 
 rest of modern Paris, doubtless do not conduce to the 
 appreciation of fine cooking ; but the chief cause of the 
 decline of cookery in restaurants is the development of 
 club life. The men of fashion, leisure, or wealth, who 
 formerly would have lived at the restaurants, now dine 
 at their clubs between two seances at the baccarat table, 
 and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of regu- 
 lar and fastidious customers which, by its readiness to 
 criticise and appreciate, obliged and encouraged the 
 chef to keep up the traditions of the dainty palates of 
 the past. At present the great restaurants of Paris de- 
 pend for support as much on foreigners and on provin- 
 cial people as on resident Parisians. The criticism of 
 their cookery is less constant and less rigorous ; the bills 
 
 148
 
 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 149 
 
 of fare are less varied than they were of old ; the amour 
 propre of the cooks is less ; in a word, cookery has be- 
 come nowadays more an industry than an art. Even in 
 the most famous Parisian restaurants the visitor must 
 not expect too much in the way either of viands or of 
 wines. 
 
 In certain things, again, it must be remembered that 
 the Parisian market is inferior to the markets of almost 
 any town in England. The English visitor generally 
 speaks disparagingly of the French oyster, for instance, 
 doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor, and 
 yet I know many connoisseurs who have travelled and 
 dined in many lands who maintain that of all oysters 
 the green Marennes (Marennes vertes) are the most deli- 
 cate and delicious. The lovers of comparisons will ask 
 what equivalents the French have for real turtle-soup, 
 ox-tail, mulligatawny, and pea-soup with a sprinkling of 
 dried mint and sippets. Is it their bisque or pure"e of 
 crayfish, their consomme dc volatile, their Saint Germain. 
 or green pea-soup, their Parmentier, or thick potato- 
 soup ? But the traveller does not go to Paris to eat the 
 food of his native land, but rather to enjoy the particu- 
 lar food of the country. Therefore, he must not expect 
 to get fine salmon, or cod-fish, or turbot, or even mack- 
 erel in Paris. The city is too far away from the sea to 
 have good salt-water fish. Salmon in Paris is dry and 
 of poor flavor ; fresh cod-fish is rarely seen, and the 
 habits of the restaurants render it impossible to eat such 
 salmon and turbot as there is in favorable conditions. 
 In a London restaurant a whole salmon or a whole tur- 
 bot is served hot like the joints ; in a Paris restaurant, 
 if you order boiled salmon or turbot, the cook cuts a 
 slice off a parboiled fish, puts the slice in the pot, and 
 boils it up for you. The result is unsatisfactory. As a 
 rule, I should say, in a Parisian restaurant eat your 
 salmon and your turbot cold, and prefer to both a red 
 mullet (rouget}, a sole, a trout, or some fresh- water fish.
 
 150 THE REST A U RANTS OF PARIS. 
 
 A carefully prepared matelotte danguilles, which is not 
 precisely the same as stewed eels, andfriture de Seine, 
 which need not be compared to whitebait, are both 
 dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure. 
 
 The French are poor roasters ; the roast beef and 
 roast mutton in their restaurants cannot for a moment 
 be compared with the joints at Simpson's or Blanchard's 
 in London. Pies and puddings also are unknown to the 
 French, with the exception otpdte's de foie gras and game 
 pies. The French, again, eat their game very fresh and 
 less cooked than the English. Generally, I think that 
 the raw material of the Parisian restaurant cuisine is 
 inferior to that of English restaurants ; on the other 
 hand, with the limitations referred to above, particularly 
 as regards roasting, the preparation of the dishes is 
 superior, and in the first-class restaurants unique. In 
 the preparation and variety of vegetables the French 
 lead the world ; in the fabrication of sauces they are un- 
 surpassed ; in the serving and arrangement of a dinner 
 they leave little to be desired. 
 
 But where can one go to dine in Paris ? Which restau- 
 rants are the best, and what are the prices, and what is 
 one to order ? The subject is delicate and even danger- 
 ous, for although the critic has the right to declare a 
 book or picture bad, pernicious, or abominable, and to 
 pronounce its author to be unworthy of public atten- 
 tion, he dare not be so outspoken about the wretchedest 
 restaurant-keeper who is licensed to poison his custom- 
 ers. I cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant 
 in the Palais Royal is not to be frequented, or that such 
 and such a gilded palace on the boulevard is an expen- 
 sive delusion. I may, however, assure you that as 
 prices run in Paris, it is impossible for a restaurateur 
 to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat 
 for less than one and a half francs, and you may there- 
 fore conclude that the restaurateurs who, for a fixed 
 price, varying from one and a quarter to three francs,
 
 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 151 
 
 offer you a complete dinner of five courses soup, fish, 
 meat, two desserts, and half a bottle of wine are prob- 
 ably in league with the honorable apothecaries, whose 
 aid their customers must often need. 
 
 To the traveller I say avoid frix fixe dinners alto- 
 gether, or, if you will satisfy your curiosity, go to 
 the Diner Europeen at the corner of rue Lepelletier 
 and the boulevard (price five francs), or to the table 
 d'hote dinners of those vast caravansaries, the Hotel du 
 Louvre, the Grand Hotel, or the Hotel Continental, 
 where you dine for six, seven, or eight francs, and see 
 specimens of men, women and children of all the coun- 
 tries of the world, and a profusion of linen, of silver 
 plate, and luxurious surroundings which, for a time, 
 will perhaps distract your attention from the insipidness 
 of the roasts and the cheapness of the sauces. 
 
 The Bouillon Duval is an establishment which gener- 
 ally attracts the attention of the traveller. In every 
 guarter of Paris you see one or two sober and respecta- 
 ble-looking fagades painted dark red and lettered sim- 
 ply, " Etablissement Duval." The Duval restaurants 
 are wonderfully organized, exceedingly cheap, and all 
 the food sold in them is good and genuine ; these estab- 
 lishments now serve an average of three million meals 
 a year. The visitor may often find it convenient in his 
 wanderings about Paris to lunch in one of these Duval 
 restaurants, if he is out of the way of any other well- 
 known restaurant. In all of them he will find the food 
 of the same quality, and the prices the same. As he 
 enters, the doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin, on 
 which all that he eats and drinks will be checked off, 
 and which bulletin, when duly paid and stamped, will 
 serve him as a passport when he leaves the establish- 
 ment. The prices at the Duvals are very low ; no dish 
 costs more than one franc, and most of them only fifty 
 or sixty centimes ; wine costs twenty centimes a carafon, 
 which is equivalent to one glassful, or one franc a bot-
 
 152 THE RESTA URANTS OF PARIS. 
 
 tie and upwards ; coffee and cognac costs forty cen- 
 times. The Duval restaurant may be frequented with 
 impunity, for nothing poisonous or deleterious is sold 
 there ; the only disadvantage is that the portions being 
 very small, a hungry man, in order to satisfy his appe- 
 tite, will need so many portions, that his bill will mount 
 up to as much as if he had lunched or dined in an estab- 
 lishment of superior standing and comfort. The Bouil- 
 lon Duval stands in the same relation to the regular 
 restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the 
 victoria ; as somebody has said, c'est I' omnibus du ventre. 
 
 At length we come to the restaurants proper, the res- 
 taurants where one dines in the true sense of the term. 
 It is commonly believed that the first-class restaurants 
 in Paris are very dear. The Cafe Anglais, you will be 
 told, charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two, and 
 fifteen francs for a Rouen duck. Yes, but the beefsteak 
 in question is a Chateaubriand, a kernel of delicate 
 meat cut in the heart of the filet, meat that is sold at 
 two and a half francs a pound by the butcher and the 
 duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer's. Good 
 provisions in Paris are dear, and when one considers 
 the heavy expenses of the first-class restaurants, one 
 cannot complain of their charges. 
 
 As regards perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais 
 heads the list. Its soups and sauces are exquisite ; a 
 sole "a 1'Orly," "Colbert," "normande," " a la Join- 
 ville," or " au vin blanc," may be eaten there in perfec- 
 tion, and there is no restaurant in Paris where you can 
 get a more delicate " sauce diable " served to a grilled 
 fowl. The two great tests of a French kitchen are 
 soups and sauces ; if these are good, you may rest as- 
 sured that everything else will be good. 
 
 In the same category with the Cafe Anglais, both as 
 regards quality of food and price, may be placed Du- 
 rand's, opposite the Madeleine, and Adolphe and Pelle 
 behind the Opera. Next come the Maison d'Or. the
 
 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 153 
 
 
 
 Cafe de la Paix, Bignon, and the Cafe de Paris, in the 
 Avenue de 1'Opera, Voisin in the rue Cambon, the old 
 Vefour in the Palais Royal, the Pere Lathuile, in the 
 Avenue de Clichy, and Fayot, opposite the Luxem- 
 bourg Palace. At all these restaurants you can dine 
 delicately and drink as good wines as are still to be had 
 in France. Voisin and Foyot, especially, have choice 
 Burgundies of incomparable fineness. 
 
 The third category of restaurants includes the Cafe 
 Riche, which years ago belonged to the first category ; 
 Brebant's, now a general Bouillon, at the corner of 
 Boulevard Montmartre ; Chevilliard, at the Rond-Point 
 des Champs Elysees ; Laurent, and Ledoyen, in the 
 Champs Elysees ; Champeaux, Place de la Bourse, 
 where you dine in a perpetual winter garden ; Edouard, 
 Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opera Comique ; Wepler, 
 Place Clichy ; La Perouse, on the Quai des Grands Au- 
 gustins ; Maire, at the corner of the Boulevard de Stras- 
 bourg and the Boulevard St. Denis ; Marguery, next 
 door to the Gymnase theatre ; Perroncel, rue du Havre, 
 opposite the Gare Saint Lazare. In the Bois du Bou- 
 logne the restaurants of Madrid, and of the Pavilion 
 d'Armenonville are much frequented in the summer by 
 gay and smart people : the prices are about the same as 
 at the restaurants in town of the second category, that 
 is to say, two can dine there modestly with ordinary 
 wine for a louis. 
 
 I presume that the traveller comes to Paris to taste 
 Parisian cooking, and therefore I shall not recommend 
 him to try the pseudo-English cuisine of Weber or Lucas 
 in the rue Royale and Place de la Madeleine, or the 
 Russian restaurant in the rue Marivaux, or the Hunga- 
 rian restaurant in the rue Rougemont. There remain 
 then to be mentioned only a few special establishments, 
 such as the Pied de Mouton near the Central Market, 
 and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue Montorgueil. 
 There are several restaurants in Paris which make a
 
 154 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 
 
 
 
 specialty of Bouillabaisse ; but I do not recommend that 
 dish in Paris, for the simple reason that it is not the real 
 article. In the Parisian Bouillabaisse several of the 
 fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear 
 transportation from the seaside. The traveller gourmet 
 will prefer to wait until chance leads him to Marseilles, 
 where the reigning chief of the great dynasty of Rou- 
 bion will serve him this savoury dish on a balcony 
 overlooking the blue Mediterranean. The cafe con- 
 certs in the Champs Elysees ^re also much frequented 
 by open air diners in the summer. The spectacle 
 is curious and amusing, but the gourmet will flee the 
 promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre 
 cuisine. 
 
 To give precise details as to price is difficult. One 
 may say generally that at the Cafe Anglais two persons 
 can dine delicately and well without stint as to good 
 wines or choice of dishes, for about two louis (forty 
 francs). On the other hand, the single man who is pre- 
 pared to spend not less than seven francs on his dinner 
 may enter boldly any restaurant in Paris, from the Cafe 
 Anglais downward, and dine for that sum on soup, one 
 dish, cheese, and half a bottle of wine. For ten or 
 twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly al- 
 most anywhere, except at the very tip-top houses, such 
 as the Cafe Anglais, Durand's, and Adolphe and Pelle's. 
 By way of practical hints I will subjoin a few observa- 
 tions. 
 
 Beware of hors d'ceuvres and baskets of fruit, for their 
 influence on the total of your bill is alarming. If you 
 are alone, resolutely refuse radishes and butter, or 
 rather leave them untouched on the table before you ; 
 if you have invited a friend to dinner, offer him hors 
 d'ceuvres and hope that he \vill refuse ; if you are with a 
 lady, both hors d'ceuvres and the basket of fruit are obli- 
 gatory. Eve offered fruit to Adam ; the least we sons 
 of Adam can do is to return the politeness.
 
 THE RESTA URANTS OF PARIS. 155 
 
 The real gourmet eats by candle-light, because, as 
 Nestor Roqueplan said, "rein n'est laid comme une 
 sauce vue au soleil. " 
 
 When you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the 
 place that is offered you. Choose your own table, and if 
 it is breakfast-time secure a view through the window 
 and a view of the whole restaurant, and if possible let 
 the light strike on the table from your left hand. 
 
 Preserve your freedom of will, but do not try to im- 
 pose it. You are the master, it is true, and yet to a cer- 
 tain extent you must obey. Consult, therefore, with 
 the mattre <f hotel, consider what he recommends, and 
 accept it if it be to your taste, for in the good restaur- 
 ants there is no question of passing off stale food. The 
 mattre cThdtel is flattered when you ask his advice, and 
 it is his business to be acquainted with the special and 
 daily resources of the larder. At places like the Cafe 
 Anglais the written menu mentions only a few very ordin- 
 ary dishes, and you will inspire respect by not asking for 
 the carte. At Bignon's do not trouble yourself about 
 the carte ; ask advice of the portly Louis, and do not dis- 
 dain his counsel. In cookery as in love much confidence 
 is necessary. 
 
 Always ask for the wine list, la carte des vins, even if 
 you end by selecting vin ordinaire. The richest people 
 in the land drink vin ordinaire with their dinner, and 
 dilute it with simple water. The traveller, therefore, 
 need not fear to do likewise even in the most gorgeous 
 restaurants. Champagne is not much drunk by French 
 gourmets, and such champagnes as the Paris restaurants 
 keep is sweeter than our people generally like. To the 
 connoisseur in champagne I would say, ' ' Do not drink 
 champagne in France, for the best crfis are to be found 
 in England and Russia. " If you desire fine red or white 
 wines you will find the nomenclature and the prices on 
 the list ; choose your Beaune, Pomard, Volnay, Nuits, 
 or Moulin a Vent, your Tavel, Tonnerre, or Chamber-
 
 156 THE REST A tf RANTS OF PARfS. 
 
 tin according to your taste and purse ; consult confi- 
 dentially with the butler, and mind that you always 
 address him as sommelier. and not gar$on. The som- 
 melier is inferior to the gar$on in the hierarchy of table 
 service, as you will see from his more humble and re- 
 spectful demeanor. 
 
 Ask for r addition, and not either la carte or la note, 
 which savours of provincialism. Verify your change 
 rapidly, and see that no pieces lurk on the plate beneath 
 the bill. Be liberal towards the waiter, for it is the 
 pourboire that secures you a gmile when you arrive and 
 a smile when you leave, a helping hand when you are 
 struggling into your overcoat, obliging and ready ser- 
 vice, and the appearance, nay, even the reality of friend- 
 ship. In the three categories of restaurants mentioned 
 above do not give the waiter less than fifty centimes, 
 however modest your bill, and the more delicate and 
 satisfactory your dinner, the more liberal let your pour- 
 boire be, ranging from one franc up to five, calculated 
 generally at the rate of five per cent, on the total of your 
 bill.
 
 THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS. 
 
 On the rue de Bern, a short street connecting the 
 beautiful Champs Elysees with the splendid Boulevard 
 Haussmann, stands a church edifice of which much is 
 heard through the newspapers, but the history of which 
 is not generally known. It is " The American Church 
 in Paris, " that being its formal title. With one excep- 
 tion, it is the only American house of worship in Paris. 
 The exception is its neighbor, the American Episcopal 
 church, situated on the avenue de 1'Alma, the thorough- 
 fare connecting the Champs Elysees with Place de 
 1'Alma. The former edifice is, however, always known 
 as "The American Church." 
 
 157
 
 158 THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS. 
 
 It was founded early in the second empire, by the 
 American and Foreign Christian Union of New York 
 city. In 1857 the Union selected the Rev. Edward Nor- 
 ris Kirk, D.D., of Boston, to commence the enterprise 
 of securing funds for the purchase of the property, an 
 undertaking which he courageously and successfully 
 accomplished. In the same year the property was pur- 
 chased by him and the American Church in Paris was 
 established. 
 
 Although American in name and built in response to 
 a local demand for an American' Church, all denomina- 
 tions contributed to its construction, all have aided in 
 its support and it belongs alike to all, having from its 
 inception been designed as a house of prayer for all 
 people. Until five years ago it was known as the Amer- 
 ican chapel. Dr. Beard, who was then serving it, 
 changed chapel to church. 
 
 Divine service is held every Sunday throughout the 
 year, and on the third Sunday of the month a meeting 
 is held in the interests of French evangelization. From 
 October to June Sunday school and adult Bible classes 
 are conducted, and the attendance is gratifying. A 
 prayer meeting is held on Monday afternoons, and on 
 Friday afternoons there is a meeting of the Ladies' 
 Benevolent Association at some house designated on 
 the previous Sunday. A cordial invitation is extended 
 to all ladies sojourning in Paris to associate themselves 
 with the work of this society. The church is, as before 
 stated, an American church only in name, for all Eng- 
 lish speaking people are welcome at the different ser- 
 vices and are invited to associate themselves in the 
 fellowship and work. 
 
 To speak precisely, the American Church is a union 
 church on the doctrinal basis of the Evangelical Alliance. 
 It is supported by pew rentals, Sunday offerings and 
 special donations. The pews contain six sittings and 
 rent for $80 per annum. Certain churches in the United
 
 THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS. 159 
 
 States support pews for the benefit of their travelling 
 members and many Americans at home as well as in 
 England and Paris rent pews which bear their names. 
 
 The American Church has a library of over one 
 thousand volumes, which is open on Sundays for the 
 free use of visitors. In many other ways the church 
 welcomes the stranger. Special interest is felt by the 
 church in the large number of students prosecuting their 
 studies in Paris. Dr. Thurber extends a general invi- 
 tation to his friends and to friends of the church, resi- 
 dent in or visiting Paris, to call upon him socially at his 
 home, 13 avenue McMahon, near the Arc de Triomphe. 
 He sets apart Wednesday as a special reception day, 
 afternoon and evening, and courteously requests that 
 those who worship at the church introduce themselves 
 after service or send him their cards. 
 
 The structure was designed by E. A. Salmon in the 
 thirteenth century style of architecture and it is similar 
 to the church of St. Germain des Pres, Paris. The 
 fagade is of the light colored Caen stone so commonly 
 used in Paris. The plot is fifty feet wide. Interiorly 
 the aspect is clean and fresh, and the atmosphere home- 
 like and inviting. The building was entirely renovated 
 some twelve years ago, during the ministry of Dr. 
 Hitchcock, and since then it has been maintained in 
 excellent condition. 
 
 Above the mortuary chapel hangs a picture repre- 
 senting "Christ Blessing the Children." It is a gift 
 from the Hon. Leland Stanford and Mrs. Stanford, of 
 San Francisco, in memorial of their son, who died eight 
 years ago. The mortuary chapel itself is the gift of 
 Mrs. Stanford. The body of her son was deposited here 
 for five weeks, during which time Mr. and Mrs. Stanford 
 came every day, always bringing freshly cut flowers. 
 Above the vestry hangs another picture, the gift of Mr. 
 and Mrs. J. J. White, also Americans, presented on the 
 occasion of their departure from Paris.
 
 MUSEE DU LOUVRE. 
 
 The Louvre Palace is a most magnificent building, 
 the largest picture gallery in Paris or in Europe. 
 
 The offices of the Minister ''of Finance occupy the 
 greater portion of the modern building, while the more 
 ancient portion, since 1793, serves as a Museum. 
 
 The Painting and Sculpture Galleries, which contain 
 many of the master-pieces of all periods, are open daily 
 (except Mondays) from nine to five in summer and from 
 ten to four in winter (Sundays and public holidays, ten 
 to four). 
 
 Among the works of the early Italian Masters the most 
 remarkable are those of the Florentine school. The 
 Virgin and Angels, by Cimabue ; St. Francois Receiving 
 the Stigmata, by Giotto ; the Virgin and Child, and the 
 Conflict between Cupid and Chastity, by Perugino, and 
 others by Fra Angelico, Gozzoli, Fra Filippo Lippi and 
 Andre Mantegna. 
 
 The most interesting of Raphael's works are : La 
 Belle Jardiniere ; Apollo and Marsyas ; The Holy 
 Family ; St. Michael Conquering Satan, and his superb 
 portrait of Bernard Castiglione, painted in 1516. 
 
 By Leonardo da Vinci : St. John the Baptist ; St. 
 Anne ; la Belle Ferronniere, and his celebrated Joconde. 
 
 By Titian : The Entombment ; Christ at Emmaus ; 
 Christ Crowned with Thorns ; Frangois I. ; L'homme 
 au gant ; Alphonso Davalos and his wife ; Alphonse de 
 Ferrare and Laura de Dianti. 
 
 By Corregio : Marriage of St. Catherine, and Jupiter 
 and Antiope. 
 
 160
 
 MUSEE DU LOU VRE. 161 
 
 By Paul Veronese : The Meal at the House of Simon 
 the Pharisee.and the Marriage of Cana. 
 
 Among the paintings of the old Flemish school the 
 most remarkable are : Jan van Eyck's Madonna revered 
 by the Chancellor Rollin, and Memling's St. John the 
 Baptist and St. Mary Magdalene. 
 
 The Museum contains a considerable portion of 
 Rubens's works, firstly the series of twenty-one allegori- 
 cal paintings representing scenes from the life of Marie 
 de Medicis, then Lot's Flight, the Adoration of the Wise 
 Men, the Flight into Egypt, etc. , the Portrait of Helene 
 Fourment, his second wife, with two of his children, and 
 the Flemish Fair. 
 
 By Rubens' pupil, Van Dyck : Charles I. of England, 
 a chef-d'oeuvre. 
 
 Of the Dutch school there are several superb Rem- 
 brandts : Angel of Tobias ; the Carpenter's Family ; 
 the Good Samaritan ; Christ at Emmaus ; Woman Bath- 
 ing, and several portraits by the same artist. 
 
 By Fr. Hals : The Portrait of Descartes, and others. 
 A few characteristic paintings by Dou, Metzu, Terburg, 
 P. de Hooch, van Ostade, Jean Stern, Cuyp, Paul Potter, 
 and some excellent landscapes of the same school by 
 Hobbema, van de Velde, Ruysdael, etc. 
 
 Of the French school, which is largely represented : 
 Charles IX. and that of his wife, Elisabeth of Austria, 
 by Clouet, the first French artist worthy of note, who 
 died about 1572. 
 
 The Day of Judgment, by Jean Cousin, painter, sculp- 
 tor, architect and mathematician. 
 
 Of the seventeenth century, are paintings by Simon 
 Vouet, Nicolas Poussin, Claude Gellee (called Le Lor- 
 rain), Philippe de Champaigne, Eustache Lesueur, Ch. 
 Lebrun, Jean Jouvenet, Mignard, Largilliere and his 
 rival, Rigaud, who has left some excellent portraits of 
 Louis XIV. and Bossuet. 
 
 Arriving at the eighteenth century there are paintings
 
 162 Af USER DU LO U VRE. 
 
 by Watteau, Boucher, Vien, Fragonard, Chardin, Lan- 
 cret, Greuze, etc. 
 
 At the beginning of this century the French school 
 was regenerated by David. His principal pupils, Giro- 
 det-Trioson, Gerard, Gros and Guerin, followed his 
 example, as did also his contemporaries, Lethiere and 
 Prudhon. 
 
 A new revolution was brought about by Gericault, 
 who was the head of the school of romantic painting. 
 
 Then followed Ingres, Delacroix, Horace Vernet, Paul 
 Delaroche, Hippolyte Flandrin..' A number of landscape 
 painters, Th. Rousseau, Huet, Jules Dupre, Corot, 
 Daubigny, Troyon and then Diaz and Millet brought 
 forth new vigor in the direct study of nature ; and here 
 ends the development of the art as far as one can follow 
 it in the galleries of the Louvre Palace. The most in- 
 teresting Salle is the famous square salon which con- 
 tains the greatest gems of the entire Museum and forms 
 in itself a complete collection of incomparable master- 
 pieces. 
 
 The Sculpture Galleries are divided into three classes, 
 Ancient, Renaissance and Modern, and they occupy the 
 ground floor. 
 
 The gallery of Ancient Sculpture (on the Seine side) 
 is rich in productions of different periods. The most 
 remarkable are : Apollo Belvedere, Diana a la Biche, 
 Gnidian Venus (of which the original is in the Vatican), 
 Medicean Venus, a Minerva, Fragment of the frieze of 
 the Parthenon, the Nointel Tablets, Torso of Juno, the 
 Three Graces with modern heads, the celebrated Venus 
 de Milo, the colossal Melpomene, Venus of Aries, Apollo 
 Sauroctonus, Pallas of Velletry, Venus Genetrix, the 
 Borghese Gladiator, Diana of Gabii, Centaur, Diana 
 Huntress and the Tiber recumbent. 
 
 The Renaissance Collection is in the south wing of the 
 inner court and on the east side. The most remarkable 
 are the works of Jean Goujon, Germain Pilon and
 
 MUSEE DU LOUVRE. 163 
 
 Michael Angelo, particularly the Fettered Slaves, by the 
 last named artist (1513-1516), destined for the Mausoleum 
 of Pope Julius II. 
 
 The Collection of modern sculpture is on the west side 
 of the ancient building and occupies six Salles bearing 
 the names of the most celebrated French sculptors, from 
 the time of the Renaissance to the middle of the present 
 century, Puget, Coysevox, les Coustou, Houdon, Chau- 
 det, Rude. The most recent additions are to be found 
 in the last named Salle by Pradier and Dumont.
 
 MUSEE DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 The Musee du Luxembourg is open daily, except Mon- 
 days, from nine to five in Summer, and from ten to four 
 in winter. Sundays and holidays, ten to four. It con- 
 tains a collection of works by living artists, in painting 
 and sculpture. The most choice works are transferred 
 to the Galleries of the Louvre ten years after the death 
 of the artist, the others are assigned to provincial 
 museums. 
 
 Since 1886 the museum has occupied a new building in 
 the Palace Gardens. 
 
 Its facade, decorated by Crauk, represents France 
 recompensing Art. To the right, Orpheus Lulling Cer- 
 berus to Sleep, by Peinte; to the left, Phaeton, by Houssin. 
 
 In the vestibule a marble bust of Gericault.by Clere. 
 
 In the Sculpture Gallery the Florentine Singer, by 
 Paul Dubois ; Victor of the Cock Fight and Tarcissus, 
 by Falguiere ; Love's Messenger and Dawn, by Dela- 
 planche ; The Nest, by Croisy ; Joan of Arc, by Chapu ; 
 Genius Guarding the Secret of the Tomb, by Saint- 
 Marceaux ; Woman's Head, by Rodin ; Agar and Ismael, 
 by Aizelin; David, by Mercie; Salammbo, by Idrac; 
 Immortality, by Longepied ; Fortune, by Franceschi ; 
 Youth, by Carles, and Bailly, by Aube. 
 
 Among the paintings most worthy of notice are : 
 
 Salle I. Conquerors of Salamis, by Cormon ; St. Cuth- 
 bert, a triptych, by Duez ; Henri III. and the Duke of 
 Guise, by Comte ; Laghouat, by Guillaumet ; Venus, by 
 the sculptor Mercie ; Woman's Head, by Ricard ; De- 
 liverance of the Prisoners of Carcassonne, by J. P. 
 Laurens ; St. Sebastien, by Ribot, and Fish, by Vollon. 
 
 Salle II. The Birth of Venus, by Cabanel; Haymak- 
 ing, by Bastien Lepage ; Job, by Leon Bonnat ; For- 
 ward, by Roll ; The Poor Fisherman, by Puvis de 
 
 161
 
 MUSEE DU L UXEMBO URG. 165 
 
 Chavannes ; The Meeting, by Marie ; The Cock-Fight, 
 by Gerome, and The Excommunication of Robert the 
 Pious, by J. P. Laurens. 
 
 Salle III. Chaste Susanna, by Henner; Fortune, by 
 Jean Baudry ; Ismael, by Cazin ; View of Venice, by 
 Ziem ; Rezonville, by Morot, and Oxen, by Rosa Bon- 
 heur. To the left a large painting by Benjamin Con- 
 stant, The Last Rebels. 
 
 Salle IV. Gleaner, by Breton ; Truth, by J. Lefebvre ; 
 The Last Days of Corinth, by Tony Robert Fleury ; 
 Two Small Military Subjects, by A. de Neuville ; Na- 
 poleon III. at Solferino, by Meissonier ; a Large Land- 
 scape, by Pelouse, and a View of Bercy, by Guillemet. 
 
 Salle V. In the Country, by Lerolle; Morning "and 
 Evening, by Jules Dupre ; Maid at the Fountain, by 
 Bonvin; Cain, by Cormon ; Floreal, by Collin ; The 
 Reapers' Pay-day, by Lhermitte ; All Saints' Day, by 
 Friant ; The Dream, by Detaille, and For the Country, 
 by G. Bertrand. 
 
 Salle VI. The Arrest, by Salmson ; The Samaritan, by 
 Ribot ; The Burial, by Ulysse Butin ; The Death-bed of 
 Gambetta, by Cazin, and The Bearers of 111 News, by 
 Jules Lecomte-Dunouy. 
 
 Salle VII. The Satyr, by Gerveix ; Visiting Day at the 
 Hospital, by Jean Geoffrey; Naiad, by Henner; The 
 Baptism, by Renard. 
 
 Salle VIII. Sketches by different masters and a few 
 paintings, among them the Abandoned Child, by Louis 
 Deschamps. 
 
 Salle X. The Farmer's Wife, by Roll ; Divine Service 
 on the Sea-shore, by Edelfelt, and the Sacred Wafer, 
 by Dagnan. 
 
 Salle XI. Vierge Consolatrice, by Bouguereau ; Fan 
 and Dagger, by Falguiere ; the Beach, by Madame 
 Demont Breton ; Saint Sebastien, by Henner ; the Ferry- 
 man's Daughter, by Adan ; Mazarin, by Vetter, and 
 Souvenirs, by Chaplin.
 
 MUSEE DE CLUNY. 
 
 The Musee de Cluny is open to the public from eleven 
 to five in summer and eleven to four in winter (Mondays 
 excepted). 
 
 It contains a most varied collection of mediaeval ob- 
 jects of art, upwards of eleven thousand, dating from 
 the seventh to the eighteenth century. 
 
 The Hotel de Cluny is in itself an historical monument 
 of the highest interest, uniting in one building, almost in- 
 tact, the three finest periods of French architectural art. 
 
 On entering the court-yard by a gateway, which 
 merits particular attention, is to be remarked the prin- 
 cipal fagade bearing the escutcheons and devices of the 
 Amboise family. 
 
 Entrance to the Museum, at the end of the court-yard 
 on the right. 
 
 Salle I. Carved wood, sculptured marble and alabas- 
 ter, see 705, dating from the end of the fifteenth century. 
 The glass cases contain buckets, medals and a leaden 
 case which contained the heart of Louis de Luxembourg. 
 
 Salle II. The collection of shoes of all periods and 
 countries and the stone chimney-piece dating from the 
 sixteenth century. 
 
 Salle III. Curiosities in lead and bronze, inscriptions 
 from the crypt of St. Denis, a Triptych of the Memling 
 School and a large buffet in carved wood, dating from 
 the fifteenth century. 
 
 Salle IV. Furniture of the sixteenth and seventeenth 
 centuries, and a finely carved chimney-piece. To the 
 left, the Andeoud Collection, specimens of Italian and 
 Spanish art of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 
 
 On descending two steps from Salle IV. is a triptych 
 of the Florentine school, buffet in carved wood (768), 
 Italian paintings and a piece of French tapestry (6370). 
 
 To the right, a large room containing sculpture, among 
 which are Jeanne de Laval, wife of King Rene, in white 
 
 166
 
 MUSEE DE CLUNY. 167 
 
 marble, curious statuettes of the fourteenth century, The 
 Mourners, by Philippe le Hardi, taken from the tomb of 
 the Dukes of Bourgogne and Berry; several Virgin Marys 
 of the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, etc. 
 
 To the left of the corridor, three rooms containing 
 tapestries made in Flanders during the reign of Louis 
 XII.; in the cases, ecclesiastical ornaments and vest- 
 ments of the sixteenth century, head-dresses, belts, etc. 
 
 A Venetian lady's garment in point lace of the six- 
 teenth century, and the mantles and collarettes of the 
 dignitaries of the order of Saint-Esprit created by Henri 
 III. in 1 579. Buffets, cabinets and other works of art in 
 wood and marble. 
 
 In a room to the right, gala carriages, sledges, Sedan 
 chairs, etc. 
 
 The corridor on the first floor is decorated with 
 armor, and in the two rooms to the right is exposed a 
 magnificent collection of Italian and Hispano-Moorish 
 faience. See the superb bas-reliefs in enamel faience 
 from Lucca della Robbia and those from Lindos after 
 the style of the Persian workmanship. 
 
 At the end of these two rooms two fine tapestries of 
 the fifteenth century, in the cases ; works in glass and 
 enamel, carved wooden panels and large plaques in 
 Limoges enamel by Pierre Courteys. 
 
 To the left of the corridor a room containing French and 
 Dutch faience (25 authentic pieces, by Bernard Palissy). 
 The three small rooms at the side contain various paint- 
 ings of the Italian school, furniture of the sixteenth 
 century, etc. 
 
 In the suite of rooms following, a state bed of the 
 time of Francis I., manuscripts of the thirteenth cen- 
 tury, works in ivory, various statuettes, objects in 
 precious metals, etc. , etc. 
 
 In the Chapel, a large altar-piece of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury, carved choir-stall and chairs. Access to the gar- 
 den is obtained by a staircase at the end of the Chapel.
 
 HOTEL DES 1NVALIDES. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalides was commenced in 1670 after 
 the designs of Liberal Bruanl^ and finished in 1674 by 
 Mansard, who designed the dome. The interior of the 
 dome was painted by Jouvelt. In the two high chapels 
 on each side of the circular crypt are monuments of 
 Vauban and Turenne ; in the circular crypt the tomb 
 of Napoleon I. with bas reliefs in marble by Simart and 
 the twelve colossal figures by Pradier, symbolic of the 
 Emperor's principal victories. 
 
 The entrance to the Musee d'Artillerie is on the right 
 hand side of the court yard of honor. The western wing 
 consists of two galleries, and contains both foot and cav- 
 alry armor of great value ; to the right several historical 
 pieces, those of the High Constable de Montmorency, of 
 the Duke of Guise, of Sully de Turenne, etc. , a bas relief 
 of the Chateau de Pierrefonds and the history of the 
 French flag from the time of Charlemagne. The left 
 room contains suites of armor worn by the French kings 
 from the time of Franyois I. down to Louis XIV. ; caval- 
 ry armor and a variety of arms used by the different 
 French kings ; the swords of Frangois I. Henri II. , 
 Charles IX., Henri IV., Louis XIV., Louis XVI., Charles 
 X., a rifle of Napoleon I. and thirty-one foreign flags 
 taken from the enemy under the first empire. At the 
 end of this gallery are rooms containing the war dresses 
 of Africa, America and Asia. 
 
 On the opposite side of the court yard is an historical 
 gallery of arms and weapons from the most remote 
 
 168
 
 HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 169 
 
 ages down to the rifle invented in 1874, and a handsome 
 collection of Oriental arms from Asia and Africa. On 
 the floor above are specimens of war-dress dating from 
 the most remote ages down to the year 1792. The room 
 facing contains a collection of model artillery of every 
 invention down to the year 1870. 
 
 In the Cour de la Victoire a collection of cannon 
 which were used by the French armies in different 
 campaigns. The Chapel contains foreign flags taken 
 during the different wars.
 
 PLACES OF INTEREST AND TIME FOR VISITING THEM. 
 
 PLACES. 
 
 TIME FOR VISITING. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 ARC DE TRIOMPHE All day. 
 
 BIBLIOTHEQUE NATIONALS. . . Tues. and Thurs., 10 to 4. 
 *BON M ARCHB ... j Daily, 8 to 8. 
 
 BOURSE ' . . . . Daily, 12 to 3. 
 
 BUTTES-CHAUMONT All day. 
 
 *CATACOMBS . . Saturdays. 
 
 CEMETERY PERE-LACHAISE. . . 
 *CHAMBRE DBS DEPUTES 
 
 COLONNE VENodME 
 
 " DE JUILLET (Bastille) 
 
 *ECOLE DES BEAUX-ARTS 
 
 *ECOLE DE MEDECINE 
 
 *GOBELINS (Tapestry Manufac- 
 tory). 
 
 HALLES CENTR. (Market) 
 
 *H6TEL DES INVALIDES 
 
 *HOT. DES MONNAIES (Mint). . 
 
 HOTEL DE VILLE 
 
 JARDIN D'ACCLIMATATION . . . 
 *JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG . . . 
 * JARDIN DES PLANTES 
 
 All day. 
 Daily, 12 to 4. 
 
 All day. J 
 
 Week days, JO to 4. 
 Daily, it to 5. 
 
 Wed. and Sat., i to 3. 
 
 Daily. 
 
 Daily, 12 to 4. 
 
 Tuesday and Frid., 12 to 3. 
 
 Frid., 12 to 3, Tues., Thurs., 
 
 Sats., 2 to 3. 
 All day. 
 All day. 
 
 All day (Tuesdays and Fri- 
 days, best days to visit). 
 
 Tickets to visit the conserva- 
 tories, etc., may be had at 
 the office of the administ. 
 
 |*LUXEMBOURG (Palais du) ^ Daily, except Mond., 9 to 6. See galleries of paintings and 
 
 sculptures, works of living 
 artists. 
 
 No visiting allowed during 
 service. 
 
 Other days apply to the ad- 
 ministration from 12 to 3. 
 
 Closed on public holidays 
 
 I falling in the week. 
 
 ; Sundays, 10 to 4. 
 
 MADELEINE (Church) Daily, after i o'clock. 
 
 MUSEE DES ARTS ET METIERS. Sundays, Tues., Thurs- 
 days, 10 to 4. 
 
 *MUSEE DE CLUNV Daily, Mondays excepted, 
 
 i II to 5. 
 
 MUSKE DU LOUVRE Week days, Mond except., 
 
 9 to 5. 
 *NOTRE-DAME (Cathedral). . . . Daily, 10 to 5. 
 
 *PALAIS DE JUSTICE Daily, 12 to 4. 
 
 PALAIS-ROYAL All day. 
 
 *PANTHEON Daily, Mondays excepted, 
 
 I to to 4. 
 
 SAINTE-CHAI-ELLE .. Daily, 11105. 
 
 SAINT-DENIS (Abbey) Daily, 8.30 to 5.30. 
 
 SEWERS (6gouts) ! 
 
 *TOMB OF NAPOLEON Mondays, Tues., Thurs., 
 
 Fridays, 12 to 4. 
 
 *TouR EIFFEL Daily. 
 
 *PARC DE MONTSOURIS Daily. 
 
 Sund. and holidays except. 
 Sund. and holidays except. 
 
 By special permission from 
 the prefect de la Seine. 
 
 Sundays, 12 to 4. 
 
 By per. from the directors. 
 By permission from the di- 1 
 rector of works. 
 
 Relics, 10 to 5. The Towers, 
 
 9 to % past 5. 
 Sund. and holidays except. 
 
 To visit Dome an order is 
 necessary from the admin- 
 istration des Beaux-Arts. 
 
 Crypt from i to 4. No visit- 
 ing during service. 
 By permiss. from Director 
 I of works. Hotel de Ville. 
 Winter months, 12 to 3. 
 
 N. B. Places marked * are on the bank of the Seine. 
 
 170
 
 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Performances begin from 7.30 to 8.30 P.M. Most Theatres, etc., 
 hold Matinees on Sundays. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 LOCATION. 
 
 BOOKING 
 
 OFFICE 
 HOURS. 
 
 CLASS OP ENTERTAIN- 
 MENT*. 
 
 OPERA 
 COMEDIE-FRAN9AISE . . 
 
 OPERA-COMIQUB 
 ODEON 
 
 Place de FOpera ... 
 Place du Theatre - Fran- 
 cais. 
 Place du Chatelet 
 
 10 to 5 
 it to 6 
 
 10 to 7 
 ii to 6 
 n to 7 
 
 ii to 6 
 From 1 1 a.m. 
 
 ii to 6 
 ii to 7 
 10 to 7 
 
 ii to 6 
 
 ii to 6 
 ii to 6 
 ii 106.30 
 
 ii to 6 
 
 ii to 6 
 i to 5.30 
 
 i to 6 
 i to 9 
 
 2 to 5 
 i to 7 
 
 Lyrical (Grand Opera). 
 Comedy and Tragedy 
 (ancient and modern). 
 Lyrical (Operas and Com- 
 ic Operas). 
 Comedy, Tragedy, Dra 
 ma. 
 Modern Comedy and 
 Drama. 
 Vaudeville and Comedy. 
 Operettes, Opera-Bouf- 
 fes and Light Comedy. 
 
 Vaudeville, Comedies. 
 Tragedy and Drama. 
 Operettes and Opera- 
 Bouffes. 
 Operettes and Opera- 
 Bouffes. 
 Fairy Scenes and Ballet. 
 Operettes and Burlesques 
 Operettes and Opera- 
 BourTes. 
 Operettes and Opera- 
 B on fie s. 
 Melodrama. 
 Comedy and Drama. 
 Light Comedy. 
 Operettes and Opera- 
 Bouflfes. 
 Comedy. 
 Ballets, Pantomimes, 
 Operettes. 
 
 Place de 1'Odeon 
 
 GYMNASE 
 VAUDEVILLE 
 
 Bd. de Bonne-Nouvelle . . 
 
 Rue de la Chauss.-d'Antin. 
 Boulevard Montmartre . . . 
 
 VARIETES 
 
 PALAIS-ROYAL 
 
 N. W. Comer of the Pa 
 
 PORTE ST-MARTIN... 
 BOI'FFES-PARISIENS .. 
 
 REN AISSANCE 
 
 Boulevard Saint-Martin.. 
 Passage Choiseul 
 
 Boulevard Saint-Martin.. 
 
 
 Place du Chatelet 
 
 GAITK 
 
 Square des Arts et Metiers. 
 Boulevard des Italiens . . . 
 
 NoUVKAUTES 
 
 FOLIES DRAMATIQUES. 
 AMBICU 
 
 
 Boulevard Saint Martin,. 
 Rue de Malte 
 
 CHATEAU-D*EAU 
 
 CLUNY 
 
 Boulevard St- Germain .. . 
 
 MENUS-PLAISIRS 
 DEJAZET 
 
 Boulevard de Strasbourg. 
 Boulevard du Temple. . . . 
 
 ^DEN-THEATRE 
 
 Rue Boudreau 
 
 CONCERTS AND 
 CAFES-CHANTANTS. 
 
 LOCATION. 
 
 DATE AND 
 TIME. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 CONC. POPULAIRES 
 CONC. LAMOUREUX. . 
 
 Cirque d'Hiver 
 
 Sunday. During Winter Months. 
 Sunday. During Winter Months. 
 ... During Winter Months. 
 Daily p.m. During Summer Months. 
 Daily p.m. During Summer Months. 
 Daily p.m. During Summer Months. 
 Daily p.m. During Winter Months. 
 Daily p.m. All the Year. 
 
 CONCERTS COLONNE . . 
 
 AMBASSADBPRS 
 
 Chatelet-Theatre 
 
 AI.CAZAR D'^TE 
 L'HORLOGB 
 ELDORADO , 
 
 SCALA. ... 
 
 Champs- Elys^es 
 Champs-Elysees 
 Bd. de Strasbourg 
 Bd. de Strasbourg 
 
 171
 
 CIRCUSES AND 
 VARIETIES. 
 
 LOCATION. 
 
 DATE AND 
 TIME. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 HIPPODROME 
 CIRQUE D'^TE 
 CIRQUE U'HIVER 
 NOUVEAU CIRQUE .. 
 CIRQUE FERNANDO... 
 FOLIES-BERGERE ..... 
 
 Avenue de 1'Alma 
 Champs-Elysees 
 Bd. des Filles du Calvaire. 
 Rue Saint-Honore 
 Bd. Rochechouart 
 Rue Richer 
 
 Daily. 
 Daily p.m. 
 Daily p.m. 
 Daily p.m. 
 Daily p.m. 
 Daily p.m. 
 
 From March to November 
 From April to October. 
 From November to May. 
 From October to May. 
 During Winter Months. 
 Variety Entertainments. 
 
 CABS. 
 
 On hiring a cab, ask the Driver for his number (Numero). His ticket will serve in case 
 of complaint or inquiry. 
 
 MAXIMUM TARIFF 
 
 WITHIN PAKIS. 
 
 BEYOND THK 
 FORTIFICAT. 
 
 TARIFF PER KIL. FOR ALL CABS 
 PROVIDED WITH A DISTANCE 
 CONTROLLER. 
 
 
 PER ! PER 
 HOUR. HOUR. 
 
 FOR HOURS. 
 
 CABS. 
 
 ___;l^l 
 
 To seat 2 persons. 
 " " 4 " 
 Landaus to seat 
 4 or 6 persons.. 
 
 \vn HIN PARIS. 
 
 By day. 
 
 Night. 
 
 I 
 
 ""' f. >. 
 \ g,& 
 
 | 
 
 By day. 
 
 'JZ 
 
 fc"* 
 
 Extra. 
 
 F 
 
 To seat 2 persons, i 
 " " 4 and 5 
 persons with or 
 without gallery 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 50 2 25> 00 
 
 OO 2 50 2 SO 
 
 50 3 oo 3 oo 
 
 2 50 
 
 * 75 
 3 50 
 
 2 50 
 
 2 75 
 i 300 
 
 o 75 
 
 I 00 
 
 i 25 
 
 o 25 
 o 30 
 
 o 40 
 
 . o 50 
 
 Landaus to seat 
 4 or 6 persons., a 
 
 DAY. In summer from 6 a. m. Winter from 7 a. m. to 12.30 a. m. 
 NIGHT. In " " 12.303. m. " 12.30 a. m. to 7 a. m. 
 
 The charge in case of a cab for 2 or 4 persons returning empty from beyond the fortifica- 
 tions is of i franc, and of a cab for 6 persons, 2 francs. 
 
 Luggage. One parcel, 25 c. ; two parcels. 50 c. ; three nr more, 75 c. 
 
 No charge for small parcels taken inside the cab. 
 
 It is customary to give a small gratuity or pourboire of a few sous to the driver. 
 
 When hiring by time the first hour must be paid in full, after which the time may be cal- 
 culated by fraction. 
 
 It is advisable when taking a cab by the hour to mention the time to the driver. 
 
 Should there be any cause for complaint, apply to the guardian stationed at every cab- 
 stand or to a policeman. 
 
 Any article forgotten in a cab should be claimed at the Prefecture de Police (Bureau des 
 objets trouve\s) 2, quai du Marche'-Neuf, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 
 
 172
 
 FRENCH COINS AND THEIR UNITED STATES VALUE. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 UNITED STATES. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 UNITED STATES. 
 
 Fra rime" 
 
 Sous. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Cents. 
 
 Francs. 
 
 Cen- 
 times. 
 
 Sous. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Cents. 
 
 5 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 10 
 
 < 
 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 25 
 
 S 
 
 
 S 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 
 4 
 
 " 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 ' 
 
 
 10 ! 
 
 "* 75 
 
 15 
 
 
 15 
 
 too 
 
 41 
 
 
 20 
 
 " 
 
 1 IOO 
 
 20 
 
 
 20 
 
 500 
 
 " 
 
 
 IOO 
 
 " 
 
 2 " 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 1,000 
 
 
 200 
 
 " 
 
 5 : 
 
 too 
 
 i 
 
 
 5,000 | 
 
 
 i 1,000 
 
 " 
 
 The Bank of France issues notes of 50, 100, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 francs. 
 
 Gold pieces are of the value of 5, 10, 20, 40, 50, and 100 francs. 
 
 Silver pieces are of the value of 20 c., 50 c., i fr., 2 fr., and 5 francs. 
 
 Bronze pieces are of the value of i. 2, 5, and 10 centimes. 
 
 Minor values are often quoted in sous instead of centimes ; the price of an article, for in- 
 stance, is said to be of I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 20. 40, or even TOO sous, instead of 5, 10, 15, 20, 25. 
 30, 50 centimes, i fr. 2 fr., and 5 fr., respectively. 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH MEASURES. 
 
 METRES. 
 
 YARDS. 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 METRES. 
 
 YARDS. 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 METRES. 
 
 YARDS. 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 3* 
 
 12 
 
 n 
 
 4 
 
 2 3 
 
 4 
 
 3" 
 
 2 2 
 
 6% 
 
 13 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 26 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 '4 
 
 '5 
 
 ii 
 
 25 
 
 27 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 '3 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 '5 
 
 26 
 
 28 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 i? 
 
 16 
 
 '7 
 
 18 
 
 27 
 
 29 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 i? 
 
 18 
 
 21 
 
 28 
 
 30 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 18 
 
 '9 
 
 24 
 
 29 
 
 3 1 
 
 26 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 27 
 
 '9 
 
 20 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 S 2 
 
 29 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 3' 
 
 40 
 
 43 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 34 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 35 
 
 5 
 
 54 
 
 25 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 i 
 
 22 
 
 24 
 
 i 
 
 IOO 
 
 109 
 
 M 
 
 Measures. The unit employed for all measures is the metre, which is subdivided into 
 centimetres and millimetres ; the metre is equivalent to i yard 3)^ inches. 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH DISTANCES. 
 
 KlLOMET. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 YARDS. 
 
 KlI.OMKT. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 YABDS. 
 
 KlLOMET. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 YARDS. 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 
 IOOO 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 760 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 1700 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 420 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 60 
 
 37 
 
 280 
 
 3 
 
 j 
 
 1510 
 
 >4 
 
 8 
 
 1180 
 
 70 
 
 43 
 
 620 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 840 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 5'o 
 
 80 
 
 19 
 
 960 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 170 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 1600 
 
 90 
 
 55 
 
 J 3 ~ 
 
 
 3 
 
 1260 
 
 '7 
 
 o 
 
 93 
 
 IOO 
 
 61 
 
 1640 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 i9 
 
 18 
 
 i 
 
 260 
 
 200 
 
 123 
 
 1520 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 1 63o 
 
 '9 
 
 i 
 
 '350 
 
 300 
 
 185 
 
 1400 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 1010 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 680 
 
 400 
 
 247 
 
 1280 
 
 to 
 
 6 
 
 34 
 
 3<> 
 
 8 
 
 1020 
 
 500 
 
 309 
 
 IIOO 
 
 ii 
 
 6 
 
 1430 
 
 40 
 
 24 
 
 1360 
 
 IOOO 
 
 619 
 
 1560 
 
 Distances. i kilometre is equal to 1,000 metres. 
 
 173
 
 AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. 
 
 HOURS II A.M. TO 2 P.M. 
 
 United States Ambassador, 35 Av. Hoche. 
 
 United States Consul, 36 Av. de 1'Opera. 
 
 Passports may be had from the American Ambassa- 
 dor ; although not necessary in France, they are often 
 useful in case of admittance to public buildings or ehould 
 one's identity be required. 
 
 AMERICAN BANKERS. 
 HOURS 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M. 
 
 Drexel Harjes & Co., 31 Boulevard Haussmann. 
 
 Hottinguer & Co. (agents for Brown Bros., New York), 
 38 Rue de Provence. 
 
 Munroe & Co., 7 Rue Scribe. 
 
 Rothschild Freres, 21 Rue Laffitte. 
 
 Seligman Freres & Co. , 32 bis, Boulevard Haussmann. 
 
 Anglo American Bank, cor. of Rue Meyerbeer and 
 Chaussee d'Antin. 
 
 RELIGIOUS SERVICES. 
 
 American Church, 21 Rue de Berri (Champs-Elysees), 
 ii A.M. 
 
 American Episcopal Church, 19 Avenue de 1'Alma, 
 ii A.M. 
 
 English Church, 5 Rue d'Aguesseau (60 Faubourg 
 Saint-Honore), ii A.M., 3:30 and 8 P.M. 
 
 Christ Church, 49 Boulevard Bineau, Neuilly, 10:30 
 A.M. and 4 P.M. 
 
 Church of England, 5 Rue de Bassins (near the Arc 
 de Triomphe). 
 
 Eglise de 1'Etoile, 6 Avenue de la Grande-Armee, 10 
 A.M. and 4 P.M. 
 
 English Congregational Chapel, 23 Rue Royale, 11:15 
 A.M. and 7:30 P.M. 
 
 Church of Scotland. 17 Rue Bayard (Champs-Elysees). 
 
 Wesley an Methodist Church, 4 Rue Roquepine (near 
 the Madeleine) ii A.M. and 7:30 P.M. 
 
 English Roman Catholic Church, 50 Avenue Hoche. 
 174
 
 VERSAILLES. 
 
 Versailles is situated about fourteen miles S. W. of 
 Paris. 
 
 Trains run from the gare Saint-Lazare on the right 
 bank of the Seine and from the gare Montparnasse on 
 the left bank every hour from thirty-five to fifty 
 minutes' ride. 
 
 Tramways run every hour from the Quai du Louvre 
 (Paris) to the square in front of the palace (Versailles) 
 one hour and thirty minutes' ride. The Palace is 
 within easy walking distance of the railway stations, 
 and is open every day (Monday excepted) from ten to 
 five in summer and from eleven to four in winter. 
 
 The Palace of Versailles, as seen from the court 
 yard, presents a less imposing aspect than from the 
 garden side, where the fagade measures one thousand 
 three hundred and sixty feet. 
 
 The most interesting points of interest in the interior 
 are : 
 
 The Historical Museum, the first gallery of which, 
 consisting of eleven rooms, contains a most valuable 
 collection of paintings illustrative of the principal events 
 in the history of France, dating from Clovis to the reign 
 of Louis XVI. 
 
 Salle des Croisades. The walls and ceilings of which 
 are adorned with paintings, armorial bearings, etc., 
 relating to the crusades. 
 
 The Sculpture gallery and the salle de Constantine. 
 
 In the second gallery, consisting of ten rooms on the 
 first floor, are to be seen paintings descriptive of his- 
 torical events from 1797 to 1835. 
 
 175
 
 176 VERSAILLES. 
 
 Salon d'Hercule, salle des Etats Generaux and Salon 
 de la Guerre. 
 
 The Galerie des Glaces. From its windows may be 
 had a splendid view of the park. 
 
 Salle du Conseil and Salon de la Paix. 
 
 The apartments of Louis XIV. and the Salle de 
 1'CEil-de-Bceuf. 
 
 The rich and highly decorated Appartements de la 
 Reine contain David's painting of the coronation of 
 Napoleon and the marble statue by Vela (last moments 
 of Napoleon). 
 
 Galerie de 1'Empire and the Grande Galerie des 
 Batailles. 
 
 The gardens behind the palace, which were laid out 
 by A. Le Notre, the most celebrated landscape gardener 
 of his time, are exceedingly beautiful. They possess 
 probably the most splendid fountains to be found any- 
 where, the working of which is estimated at an aggre- 
 gate cost of ten thousand francs each time they play. 
 
 The Grand Trianon, fifteen minutes walk from the 
 terrace of the palace, was built by Louis XIV. for 
 Madame de Maintenon. See the State carriages ex- 
 hibited in a building a little to the right. 
 
 The Petit Trianon, built during the reign of Louis 
 XV., was the favorite resort of Marie Antoinette, who 
 constructed a model Swiss village in the adjoining 
 gardens. 
 
 The Grand and Petit Trianon close at four P.M.
 
 EN PASSANT. 
 
 It is always the best plan to drink the wines of the 
 country through which you are travelling. On the 
 Rhine, drink Rhine wines ; on the Mosel, take wines 
 named after that river. If you persist in having French 
 wine in Italy you will have to pay well for it ; Italy 
 charges heavy duty on all wines brought across her 
 borders. 
 
 At railway stations in the States, when trains are 
 about to start, conductors call out, "All aboard;" in 
 Italy you hear ' ' Pronti ; " in France ' ' En voiture ; " in 
 England, the more polite, " Take your seats, please." 
 
 Everybody in Paris who passes a house where a 
 funeral is being conducted raises his hat, even peddlers 
 and beggars ; so does every driver or coachman who 
 passes in the roadway. It is a mark of respect for the 
 dead and of sympathy for those who mourn. Women 
 cross themselves. The same custom is observed if a 
 funeral cortege passes you in the street. 
 
 Do not call on lawyers at their offices, nor on any- 
 body socially, in Paris, between the hours of twelve and 
 two ; everybody at that time is taking what we should 
 call our luncheon, what they call their breakfast, or de- 
 jeuner a la fourchette. They take it easy about noon- 
 time in Paris, but they begin business at a much earlier 
 hour than Londoners do. 
 
 In London and New York omnibuses the charge is 
 the same whether you ride outside or inside. In Edin- 
 burgh you pay less for an outside seat. In Paris, omni- 
 bus fare inside is thirty centimes ; on top or on the rear 
 platform it is only twenty centimes. Women often 
 stand on the platform the whole distance. 
 
 177
 
 178 EN PASSANT. 
 
 There are always some elegant looking voitures stand- 
 ing in rue Scribe and about the Opera, in Paris. They 
 are so handsome, the horses so sleek, the coachmen are 
 so well dressed, the whole turnout so finely equipped 
 that many people take them for private vehicles. They 
 are for hire, all the same, but do not be inveigled into 
 entering one with the idea that the fare is the same as 
 for the ordinary or cheaper looking victoria, which 
 may be had for two francs an hour. The law allows 
 cabmen to charge higher when they are called from a 
 stand than if hailed or " picked up " on the street. And 
 you need not be surprised if one of these expensively 
 gotten-up cockers charges you at the rate of five francs 
 an hour. But there is speed in the horse, there is com- 
 fort on the back seat of the carriage, and the whole 
 turnout makes a rather stylish and private looking 
 affair for an afternoon drive in the Bois. A dollar an 
 hour for such a vehicle does not seem exorbitant to a 
 New Yorker. 
 
 Ask a gendarme in Paris to direct you to a certain 
 location, and if he does not know he will pull out of his 
 pocket a miniature street directory and give you the 
 desired information, 
 
 TIPS AND DRINKS. 
 
 Talk about " tips ; " at all drinking places of any pre- 
 tension in Paris you must fee the ma-n who brings you a 
 glass of absinthe or lemonade. In the sultry days of 
 last August I was a frequent applicant for seltzer-lemo- 
 nade at "The Bodega," on the corner of rue de Rivoli 
 and rue Castiglione, under the Hotel Continental, and I 
 obtained some information from one of the waiters. 
 Their wages are very small and the living expenses of 
 a single man are from four to seven francs a day. 
 They depend entirely on fees. The Bodega waiters in
 
 EN PASSANT. 179 
 
 Paris don't care about their own countrymen for cus- 
 tomers ; they like Americans better than people of any 
 other nationality. Where a Frenchman will give a sou, 
 an Englishman two sous, an American will freely hand 
 out half a franc, or a franc, if he is treating a party of 
 three or four. 
 
 At many places of public entertainment in Paris, at 
 the Cafe de la Paix and at a.place of different character, 
 the Moulin Rouge, for example, they have a system 
 which makes it impossible for waiters to overcharge 
 you as do waiters in a few restaurants in Regent street 
 and the lower Strand. In these Paris drinking places, 
 upon the porcelain saucer which holds your glass, is 
 printed (burnt in colors) the price of your order. This 
 method makes you independent of the waiter's tricks. 
 You know exactly how much to pay him. 
 
 In pleasant weather you do not enter a Paris cafe for 
 liquid refreshment, day or night ; all Paris is out of 
 doors. Thousands of people sit in front of the cafes 
 and sip their lager or coffee, small iron tables and 
 chairs being supplied for the purpose. A stranger may 
 express surprise at the high price charged for a glass of 
 bock, half a franc. There is a reason for the high 
 rate. The proprietor or lessee of the cafe has to pay 
 for the privilege of occupying space on the sidewalk. 
 Cafe Brebant, in Boulevard Poissoniere, is taxed by the 
 city five thousand francs ; Cafe de la Paix, on the Grand 
 Hotel block, pays twenty thousand francs for this 
 privilege. 
 
 RESTAURANT PRICES. 
 
 That clever magazinist, Theodore Child, whose un- 
 timely death all readers deplore, probably knew more 
 about Paris life than any other American. In discuss- 
 ing the restaurants of Paris, he wrote : "As regards
 
 180 EN PASSANT. 
 
 perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais heads the list." 
 This, without doubt, was true when Mr. Child wrote it 
 many years ago, but the Cafe Anglais lives now on its 
 old laurels. Its glory has departed. Its reputation has 
 gone down, while its prices remain up. 
 
 I tried the Cafe Anglais last summer for a modest 
 breakfast, and this was my bill : 
 
 Small lamb chop and fried potatoes, - fr. 2.00 
 
 Cup of coffee, '>-" 1.50 
 
 Bread, - - ? .50 
 
 Butter, - . 50 
 
 New York Herald. . 1 5 
 
 Fee to waiter, - . 50 
 
 frs. 5.15 
 
 Here was over one dollar, or, if you deduct the waiter's 
 fee, about one dollar, for a not very elaborate meal. I 
 include the charge for newspaper because at most New 
 York restaurants you can consult a daily newspaper, 
 which is supplied free by the proprietor. The charge 
 for a cup of coffee (thirty cents American money) I 
 regard as quite high, considering that there is a separate 
 charge for bread and a separate charge for butter. 
 
 With a chop, potatoes and cup of coffee, for which in 
 the States you would have to pay seventy cents, there 
 would be no charge for bread, no charge for butter. 
 The Cafe Riche, in Boulevard des Italiens, opposite 
 Cafe Anglais, is also celebrated. It is a much larger 
 place than the Cafe Anglais, not so quiet, select or 
 stylish, but the prices are lower. The Cafe de la Paix, 
 on the Avenue de 1'Opera, is another expensive res- 
 taurant. 
 
 Indeed, 1 long since arrived at the conclusion that the 
 restaurants of London and Paris are dearer than our 
 own restaurants. In Paris you don't get a good cup of 
 tea ; in London you seldom get a good cup of coffee.
 
 BY SEA TO ITALY. 
 
 Americans, in planning a winter European trip, who 
 include Italy in their itinerary, will, of course, either go 
 or return by one of the large and well-appointed vessels 
 of the North German Lloyd line. So will many who 
 have no desire to visit Italy, but are bound for Switzer- 
 land, for it is the most direct and a most interesting way 
 of reaching the latter country ; via Genoa, then by rail 
 or through the Italian lakes to Lucerne or Geneva. 
 
 The Anchor line, three years ago, made a bid for this 
 Mediterranean trade, but they went the wrong way about 
 it : they put on their small ships, which did not become 
 popular for this service, and the company soon retired 
 from the field. 
 
 The North German Lloyd people, undaunted by this 
 failure, put into the service such vessels as The Fuerst 
 Bismarck, the Fulda and the Werra, each over five thous- 
 and tons gross tonnage, and success from the start 
 crowned their efforts. Three of their steamers make 
 this trip now, winter and summer, and they go full, as a 
 rule. 
 
 The voyage to Europe this way is far more interesting 
 than the ordinary route across the Atlantic. It is much 
 longer, over four thousand miles, lasting eleven days. 
 This is an advantage to those who go for health and 
 pleasure, and there is a feeling of safety abottt it, as I 
 will explain presently. But the voyage does not seem 
 anything like so long as eleven days ; it is so varied and 
 broken. You are only out of sight of land for the first 
 four or five days. 
 
 Before proceeding further" let me offer a piece of ad- 
 vice to those who make this voyage for the first time. 
 
 181
 
 182 BY SEA TO ITALY. 
 
 Even in midwinter it is comparatively warm, but in the 
 summer months summer clothing is indispensable. Dur- 
 ing the whole voyage, neither in day time nor at night, 
 did I find even a light spring overcoat necessary, and I was 
 on deck all day and every evening until bed time. But 
 here are a few " figures," which, it is said, " do not lie." 
 The thermometer in my state-room, during the whole 
 voyage between New York and Genoa, never marked 
 lower than seventy-two degrees, and this with the port, 
 door and upper ventilator wide open. The same instru- 
 ment, in the open air, on deck, as late as nine P. M. 
 occasionally marked seventy-eight degrees. 
 
 Of course it is well to be provided with rugs and wraps 
 in case ot necessity, but on this voyage we only used 
 rugs for a couple of days. Even before we entered the 
 Mediterranean the officers of the ship changed their 
 blue cloth uniforms for white linen suits, the chief- 
 engineer accompanying his suit with a white cap and 
 -white canvas shoes. They are a fine, manly set of fel- 
 lows, these German officers, and present a pleasing ap- 
 pearance in their white suits. You would judge that they 
 had had military training ; their walk and bearing are 
 soldierly and they are minus the sailor step and swagger. 
 
 All of the passengers who possessed light suits fol- 
 lowed the example of the officers, some of the men 
 leaving off their waistcoats and the women appearing 
 in white mull or thin linen blouses. 
 
 On the fifth day out from New York you pass through 
 the Azores, close enough to see the vineyards and the 
 buildings on one island and the white surf beating 
 against the shores of two of the islands. 
 
 On the morning of the eighth day you sight the coast 
 of Portugal and a little later in the day you exchange 
 signals with Cape St. Vincent, whence the name and 
 position of your vessel are telegraphed to Gibraltar, and 
 from there flashed over two continents. 
 
 Cape St. Vincent is a very bold promontory with a
 
 BY SEA TO ITALY. 183 
 
 powerful light and large lighthouse which is visible to 
 the naked eye from the ship. Visible also is a large 
 barracks or coast guard station, originally built as an 
 observatory and long tenanted by monks who devoted 
 their lives to the study of astronomy. A few miles to 
 the east of this bold cape is Punta Sagris (Point Sagris.) 
 
 The ninth day, having left the Atlantic ocean and 
 entered the Mediterranean sea, brings you through the 
 Straits of Gibraltar. It is a delightful experience and 
 a never-to-be forgotten sight if you make the Straits 
 in daylight, as we did, the narrowest point being only 
 nine miles wide. 
 
 The land on both sides of the Straits is rather moun- 
 tainous. On the European side you have the rock of 
 Gibraltar (the ancient " Calpe "), one thousand four hun- 
 dred feet high, and on the African side, Ape's Hill, 
 (" Abyla " the ancient), a mountain facing the rock and 
 considerably higher. 
 
 To be strictly accurate, the entrance to the Mediter- 
 ranean is formed by Gibraltar and Ceuta, a Spanish 
 colony in Africa of no importance except that it is the 
 largest penal settlement of a series of five extending 
 eastward along the African shore to almost opposite the 
 French frontier. This circumstance will explain the 
 jealous care with which France and Spain watch the 
 course of events in the decrepid Moorish empire, the 
 French being bent upon extending their Algerian fron- 
 tier westward into Morocco and the Spaniards desiring 
 an extension in an opposite direction. 
 
 Having passed the Straits you " slow down " and 
 presently drop anchor alongside the impregnable rock 
 of Gibraltar, for which the British fought so hard and 
 which they mean to retain. They use it only as a gar- 
 rison, and at this time have about six thousand soldiers 
 there under the command of Sir Lothian Nicholson, of 
 the Royal Engineers, lately Inspector-General of Fortifi- 
 cations for Great Britain.
 
 184 BY SEA TO ITALY, 
 
 The ships of the line under notice make a stop at 
 Gibraltar, both in going to and coming from Genoa, and 
 this gives all cabin passengers an opportunity to go 
 ashore for a few hours and explore the quaint old 
 Spanish town, for being literally in Spain, to which 
 nation it once belonged, it is still Spanish to all intents 
 and purposes, with this important exception England 
 owns and holds it, this key to the Mediterranean ; 
 and the Union Jack waves over its great guns and 
 forts. 
 
 In one or two particulars Gibraltar brings to mind Key 
 West, Florida, which, although belonging to the United 
 States, was once Spanish territory, and it has been 
 called by one writer ' ' A Cuban City in the United 
 States." As in Key* West, both the Spanish and the 
 English languages are spoken ; one as much as the 
 other. All public notices are printed in both languages, 
 and almost everybody who lives at Gibraltar speaks 
 both. The driver will be explaining certain things to 
 you in very fair English and in the next breath he will 
 swear at a fellow driver or a burro in very hard if not 
 very bad Spanish. 
 
 Bu\ here the similarity ends, for the cities are as dif- 
 ferent naturally as it is possible for two places to be. 
 Gibraltar, as we all know, rises from the sea to great 
 heights, and is surrounded by hills ; Key West is a low, 
 flat, level island ; Gibraltar is hard and rocky ; Key 
 West is soft and sandy. All the houses in Gibraltar are 
 built of stone and will stand for ages ; in Key West they 
 are wooden shanties which a very strong gust of wind 
 might blow away. The streets of Key West are unpaved 
 and dirty : the streets of Gibraltar are hard and remark- 
 ably clean. Key West, for a part of the year at least, 
 is not considered healthy ; Gibraltar is a winter sana- 
 torium. 
 
 The climate of Gibraltar has some qualities like those 
 of certain parts of Southern California. Snow is never
 
 B Y SEA TO ITAL Y. 185 
 
 seen in Gibraltar, and ice only when it is brought there. 
 The climate is equable temperature rarely over ninety ; 
 never below forty. They have their winter, which is 
 marked by rains ; on the other hand, months of summer 
 pass without rain. They grow fruits in plenty apples, 
 oranges, lemons in great profusion, figs and the pome- 
 granate. 
 
 Gibraltar is an extraordinary fortress ; absolutely im- 
 pregnable and in a position, incredible though it may 
 appear, to sink any battle ship of the present day. In 
 slang parlance Gibraltar is " up to date." Three batteries 
 have just been built on the summit of the rock, whence 
 the artillery can drop shot and shell, vertically if neces- 
 sary and directly on the deck of any ship which might 
 have the temerity to attack the fort. 
 
 The principal street of Gibraltar, Waterport street, 
 has a decidedly cosmopolitan appearance. You see the 
 costumes of many different nationalities, not only of 
 Europe but the costumes of Africa Spanish, English 
 Arabs and Turks. This feature helps to make it pictu- 
 resque in the extreme. They drink goats' milk, the 
 animals being driven up to your door and milked into 
 your own vessels. 
 
 I remember remarking, a year or two ago, in an article 
 entitled" London on Wheels, "that England was the 
 only place I knew of where they drive to the left. 1 
 had not then been to Gibraltar, nor to Genoa or Flor- 
 ence. That English peculiarity (not British, mind you) 
 has skipped Scotland and Ireland and planted itself in 
 the three cities named. If on the road a carriage driver 
 in Gibraltar meets a boy who is driving or riding on the 
 wrong side of the road, both the boy and his patient 
 burro will feel the thong of the irate driver's whip. 
 You notice the same brutality here towards dumb 
 animals which pains you in other parts of Spain, in 
 Havana, yes, and in Paris. There is room in Gibraltar 
 fora branch of the Royal Humane Society of London, or
 
 186 BY SEA TO ITALY. 
 
 the society with the too long name which Henry Bergh 
 founded in New York. 
 
 Gibraltar is the only place I know of where increase 
 of population is not desired it is, indeed, not allowed. 
 The population is stationary. For several years it has 
 been twenty thousand, and it is the same to-day. You 
 cannot enter the place for a temporary visit, even, with- 
 out a permit, and if it is your desire to reside there per- 
 manently, permission is not accorded. England keeps 
 it simply for garrison purposes and does not invite immi- 
 gration. 
 
 There are a few acres just outside of the fortifications 
 which belong neither to Spain nor England. The plot 
 is neither public nor private property, but is kept as 
 neutral ground to divide the borderline and "keep the 
 peace." 
 
 Within a mile of Gibraltar is the Spanish town of 
 Linea de la Concepcion, which, owing to the restrictions 
 upon foreigners and strangers desiring to establish them- 
 selves in Gibraltar, is rapidly increasing in population 
 and importance. 
 
 There are two theatres (so-called) in Gibraltar, but 
 none in the Spanish town hard by. Linea makes up for 
 this omission by having a bull-ring which accommodates 
 twenty thousand spectators. The bull fights occur in 
 summer only and on Sundays, of course. 
 
 To come back to the vessel again, you next sight 
 Cape de Gatt, near which is Almeria, which sends quanti- 
 ties of its grapes to the States. Then come the Sierra 
 Nevadas, and for scores of miles, for hours and hours, 
 you keep in view snow-capped mountains. 
 
 On the tenth day out you pass the Balearic Islands, 
 named Yviza, Majorca (the largest), and Minorca (the 
 smallest). 
 
 On the morning of the eleventh day, in the Riviera, 
 you sail along the southern French coast, passing Mar- 
 seilles, Nice, Monte Carlo, Cannes, Mentone, etc., getting
 
 BY SEA TO ITALY. 187 
 
 a fairly distinct view from the ship of the churches, 
 hotels and large buildings in those places. These cities 
 are backed by the Maritime Alps, some of which are 
 still snow-covered, and this grand panorama, as viewed 
 from the deck of a moving steamer, you will please 
 imagine, as these notes, made en route, are mere " hurry- 
 graphs," a phrase coined by N. P. Willis. The reader 
 will fill in the picture for himself. In a hasty article, 
 away from my desk and accustomed haunts, I can only 
 sketch the merest outline of these impressive and beau- 
 tiful scenes. 
 
 At last you are under Italian skies. The German flag 
 is raised to the peak of one mast, the Stars and Stripes 
 are hoisted to the main truck of another, to the top of a 
 third goes the flag of the North German Lloyd blue 
 key and anchor, on a white ground. The captain is on 
 the bridge, with a marine glass in his hand. 
 
 Long before you reach the bay of Genoa the white 
 buildings of the city come in view, and these, backed by 
 the hills and the fortresses on them form a bold and strik- 
 ing picture. In entering the harbor you will not fail to 
 notice six ironclads of the Italian navy. They look as 
 if they might be able to give a good Account of them- 
 selves if a dispute occurred. 
 
 The Fulda cannot boast of a twin screw, nor has she 
 triple expansion engines, as some of the later ships of 
 this line have, but there are electric lights and other 
 modern improvements, and her staterooms are large and 
 comfortable. Probably no steadier ship crosses the 
 ocean. Even when there's a "a little sea on," and when 
 other vessels might roll or pitch, there is very little 
 motion to the Fulda. 
 
 The Fulda's commander, Captain Thalenhorst, is tall, 
 well formed, erect, with a decided military bearing, but 
 every inch a sailor, and very much of a gentleman. 
 Unlike many of the bluff English captains, he not only 
 attends to the sailing of the ship but attends also to the
 
 188 BY SEA TO ITALY. 
 
 wishes and comforts of the passengers, and eagerly 
 watches for opportunities to entertain them, playing 
 host as if they were his invited guests. 
 
 On English ships the decks are washed at night or in 
 the small hours of the morning, and for this reason, even 
 if the sea be smooth, all stateroom ports are closed at 
 night, making the air stuffy and close, producing white 
 tongue and a headache in the morning. Captain Thalen- 
 horst manages things differently. He washes his decks 
 in midday, and so the ports are only closed, unless such 
 action is demanded by the feather, while the passen- 
 gers are at lunch or dinner. And this illustrates his 
 spirit of accommodation. He seems to have adopted 
 the motto of the Leland family of hotel-keepers : " We 
 Study to Please."
 
 THE BIRTHPLACE OF COLUMBUS. 
 
 Letters written to or received by Shakespeare are in 
 existence. I saw one last summer at Stratford-on-Avon. 
 It reminded me of letters of Robert Burns which I had 
 seen in the Burns Monument in Edinburgh, because 
 in both cases the letters touched on matters of money. 
 In the Scotch poet's case he would be a borrower ; in 
 that of the English poet he was begged to lend money. 
 Burns was always poor ; Shakespeare, besides being a 
 great poet, was practical, notwithstanding the state- 
 ment of some philosophers that the two qualities are 
 not found together. 
 
 Letters in Shakespeare's hand are not in existence, so 
 I was informed at Stratford, unless there be one, as I 
 believe there is, at the British Museum. As to the por- 
 traits of the bard, nothing satisfactorily definite is 
 known as to their authenticity. Who knows where 
 Homer first saw the light of day ? 
 
 But I fancy that I hear the reader ask what has all 
 this irrelevant prattle about Burns, Shakespeare and 
 Homer to do with the title of the article ? Not much, 
 to be sure, only the question of the birthplace of 
 Columbus is as much unsettled as one of the preceding 
 points, or as the year in which he was born. Genoa, 
 among other Italian cities, claims to be the birthplace 
 of Columbus, with proof to substantiate her claim, but 
 there are also several houses in Genoa, each of which is 
 said to be the house in which the renowned Christopher 
 Columbus first saw the light of day. Landing at Genoa 
 last July from the deck of the Fulda, I gave the matter 
 
 189
 
 THE COLUMBUS HOUSE. 
 
 190
 
 THE SIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 191 
 
 as much time as I could afford in my brief tour of Italy. 
 And then the temperature of an Italian July interfered 
 with my discoveries concerning the discoverer. 
 
 I may not, after all, have seen the house in which 
 Columbus was born, although it was pointed out to me 
 in different parts of the town, but I did find the house 
 in which lived for many years Domenico Colombo, the 
 father of Columbus, and the Great Admiral himself. 
 It is numbered 37 in the Vico Dritto Ponticello. Imme- 
 diately next door, one way, is numbered 35, a small 
 grocery shop ; directly next door again, on the other 
 side, is numbered 69, a little shoe shop. 
 
 You may drive to " the top of the street," as they say 
 in London, but not through the street. It is not wide 
 enough for a vehicle to pass through, unless that 
 vehicle is a baby-carriage or donkey-cart, for the high- 
 sounding Vico Dritto Ponticello, be it known, is only 
 fifteen feet wide. 
 
 Our driver was good enough to leave his horse and 
 carriage at the said " top of the street," for which rest 
 thus obtained the poor, abused animal was no doubt 
 duly thankful. With the driver we stayed a long time 
 in front of the house, examining it closely and copying 
 the inscription, and when we returned to his steed the 
 driver found himself under arrest for abandoning his 
 horse, leaving him alone in the public highway. I used 
 some silvery language in explaining to the policeman 
 the reason for the delay and then we were allowed to 
 proceed. And this brings to mind a saying of my dear 
 mother's, when I used to remark that I could not make 
 myself clearly understood in a foreign tongue : ' ' My 
 son, you have that in your pocket which speaks in all 
 languages." 
 
 The municipal policemen of Genoa are not much 
 more than half the size and weight of members of the 
 Broadway squad, but they look very neat and tidy in 
 their black caps and black cloth suits, minus metal but-
 
 192 THE SIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 
 
 tons. The coat is made single-breasted with skirts 
 reaching below the calf of the leg. He had an eye for 
 form, did the man who designed this uniform ; it gives 
 a little more height to the little Italian. 
 
 London and New York policemen carry clubs ; gen- 
 darmes of Paris threaten with a small sword ; the 
 municipal police of Genoa protect themselves with a 
 stick or mace over four feet long. It is highly polished 
 and resembles a Malacca cane. The long stick has a 
 silver top upon which these words are engraved : ' ' Re- 
 spect the Law. " 
 
 But this is not getting to the house in the Vico Dritto 
 Ponticello. You will have no difficulty in getting to it 
 in Genoa if you find your way to the First Gate of the 
 old city, to the City Prison or to the ancient church 
 which Columbus built. These buildings are very near 
 the spot. 
 
 Nearly all of the surrounding houses are of six or 
 seven stories ; No. 37 is five stories high and barely 
 twelve feet wide. It has a very plain, undecorated 
 front of stucco, which is in a fair state of preservation. 
 
 The windows have Venetian blinds, painted green. 
 The main entrance is through a double door of iron and 
 there is a side door which was probably used by the 
 servants of the family. On the door is an iron ring 
 four inches long, which was evidently used for the 
 double purpose of handle and knocker. About fifteen 
 feet from the ground there is a white marble tablet, 
 three feet by two feet, in which this inscription is cut 
 in old-fashioned Roman characters : 
 
 Nulla Domus Titulo Dignor 
 
 Heic 
 
 Paternis in Aedibus 
 Christophorus Columbus 
 
 Pueritiam 
 Primamque Juventam Transegit.
 
 THE SIR THPL A CE OF COL UMB US. 193 
 HOTEL DE GENES, GENOA. 
 
 Genoa, the most important town in Italy from a com- 
 mercial point of view, has increased in importance, at 
 least for Americans, now that the North German Lloyd 
 line sends its fine steamers hither. It has good hotel 
 accommodation. The largest, best appointed and most 
 expensive house is The Isota, on the principal thorough- 
 fare, convenient to many points of interest. But a very 
 comfortable and modest house is the Hotel "Genoa, or, 
 to give its title in full, the Grand Hotel de Genes. It 
 has fifty years' reputation. It is in the most central 
 part of the city in via Carlo Felice, and fronts on a 
 large square, Piazza Deferrari, whence you can take a 
 car to the Campo Santo (the famous cemetery), the 
 grand palaces, the noted churches, the Exposition 
 grounds to all the principal sights, in fact. The Teatro 
 Carlo Felice is on one side of the piazza, the post office 
 is but a step away, on Via Roma, one of the principal 
 shopping streets, which leads to the statue of Victor 
 Emmanuel and the public gardens. 
 
 The Hotel de Genes is solidly constructed; the stairs are 
 of white marble and the floors of the bed rooms are laid 
 in mosaic marble. They are warm enough and require 
 nothing over them in summer time in the way of carpets. 
 The house has electric lights and an elevator. The rates 
 at Hotel de Genes are : breakfast, one and a half lire ; 
 luncheon, four lire ; dinner, five lire ; rooms according 
 to size and location, from five lire per day a lire being 
 equal to a franc, say twenty cents. Among the guests 
 whose names have appeared on the books within the 
 past few years are the Duchess of Talleyrand, the Earl 
 of Carnarvon, the Princess of Battenberg, the Count 
 and Countess Schouvaloff of Russia ;-De Struve, Russian 
 Ambassador to the United States ; Baron Adolphe De 
 Rothschild ; Prince Hohenzollern and suite, and a host 
 of other titled and distinguished people.
 
 194 THE SIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 
 
 The Hotel de Genes has accommodation for more than 
 one hundred guests. Proprietors, Bonera Freres ; tele- 
 graphic and cable address : " Bonera. Genes." 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL DANIELI, VENICE. 
 
 There is good hotel accommodation in Venice ; among 
 the leading houses are the Grand Hotel, Hotel de 
 L'Europe, Hotel Brittannia, ?and, to mention it last, 
 though it is one of the first in size and appointments, 
 the Hotel Royal Danieli. Its situation, directly on the 
 border of the lagoon and the Grand Canal, affords fine 
 water views and landscape pictures. 
 
 The house is centrally located. The Doge's Palace, 
 with its wonderful pictures and frescoes, and the Piazza 
 St. Marco (the great square) are but a few hundred 
 yards distant, while the steamboat wharf where you 
 embark for the Lido, a pretty place one half hour dis- 
 tant on the shores of the Adriatic, is almost at the front 
 door of the hotel. Thirty minutes' sail to the Lido where 
 you bathe in the open sea. 
 
 Hotel Danieli was once a palace, the residence of Doge 
 Dondalo. I am speaking of what was the case five 
 hundred years ago ; just think of it before Columbus 
 was born. 
 
 They knew how to build in those days, for the palatial 
 structure shows no signs of wear. You might siippose 
 it was erected only half a century ago.. Of course, 
 parts of it are occasionally "restored "and renovated. 
 
 One of the salons is a gorgeous apartment in size and 
 decoration, and would not discredit a palace of the 
 present day. It is forty-one by nineteen feet, with a 
 heavily decorated ceiling twenty-six feet high. The 
 great doors of this noble apartment are set in heavy 
 marble casings heavier and richer than the marble cas-
 
 THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 195 
 
 ings which surround the doors and windows of the 
 palace which A. T. Stewart built in New York, and 
 which is now the home of the Manhattan Club. Above 
 each door is a massive ducal crown, gold on a green 
 ground, extending from the door casing to the ceiling. 
 The sofas and chairs of the salon are unusually large, to 
 be in keeping with the great apartment ; they are richly 
 gilded and upholstered in green velvet. 
 
 There are two lifts in the house, also a railway office. 
 You can purchase your tickets and have your luggage 
 registered before you leave a convenience no other 
 hotel in Venice offers. You and your luggage are taken 
 to the railway station in a gondola into which you step 
 from the door of the hotel. The Hotel Danieli accommo- 
 dates three hundred guests. Single rooms from three 
 to six francs ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, four 
 francs ; table d'hote dinner, five francs, which does not 
 include wine. Proprietors, Genovesi & Campi.
 
 THE HOTELS OF LUCERNE, 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 There is probably a greater number of large and 
 finely appointed hotels in Lucerne than in any other 
 place of its size in either hemisphere. 
 
 Lucerne, situated on "the lake of the four Cantons," 
 with the summits of Mount Pilatus and the Rigi within 
 very easy reach by railway, is a great rendezvous and 
 centre for tourists, several railway lines having their 
 terminus here. Steamboats.* start from here for all 
 points on the lake. 
 
 In a few hours by rail, through the St. Gothard tun- 
 nel, over, under and around the mountains, and along 
 the edges of some wondrously beautiful Swiss and 
 Italian lakes, you reach Milan, the views en route being 
 sublimely grand. In another direction Paris is reached 
 in less than twelve hours by day or night. 
 
 For its size, again, it is probably more cosmopolitan 
 than any other town in the world. All the residents 
 speak German and French, and everybody in the public 
 places knows enough of English to make himself or 
 herself understood. I refer to shopkeepers, hotel- 
 keepers, chambermaids, cabbies, etc. The flags of all 
 nations are seen at different times on the rowboats 
 hired by strangers who represent the different nation- 
 alities. The German and French flags predominate ; next 
 in number come the Union Jack and Stars and Stripes. 
 
 The leading hotels of Lucerne proper are all clustered 
 near each other, not far from the railway station, the 
 steamboat landing and the Kursaal, or Music Hall. 
 
 The Schweizerhof, accommodating six hundred 
 guests, will compare in its appointments with the hotels 
 at leading summer resorts elsewhere ; not with the 
 Metropole at Brighton, England, nor with the " States " 
 at Saratoga, but it ranks in the first class. 
 
 196
 
 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLAND. 197 
 
 The Lucernhof, which is next door to and connected 
 with the Schweizerhof and under the same management, 
 is also a large and well appointed house. By the way, in 
 Miss Braddon's last work, " The Venetians," there is a 
 reference to the Schweizerhof. In the Tauchnitz edi- 
 tion, which does not, as a rule, find its way to the 
 United States, appears this paragraph in Volume 2, p. 96 : 
 
 "They loitered by the great Swiss lake until the 
 October mists began to make Pilatus invisible. They 
 lingered under Mr. Hauser's hospitable roof so long that 
 the great St. Bernard lifted his head and howled an 
 agonizing farewell when the carriage drove off to the 
 station with Eve and her husband." 
 
 Since the book was written and printed both the 
 master and his faithful dog have passed away. But Mr. 
 Hauser left two sons, and they seem to have inherited 
 some of their father's popularity. At all events the 
 Schweizerhof does a prosperous summer business. 
 During the height of the season it is not only full, but 
 its overflow frequently helps to fill other houses. 
 
 The National is probably not so much talked of as the 
 Schweizerhof. The latter is indeed the only hotel in 
 Lucerne that is mentioned by guide-book Murray ; it 
 owes its prestige doubtless to its age and its association 
 with the early history of Lucerne as a resort for tourists. 
 But the National is not only not excelled by any hotel in 
 Lucerne, but is probably the finest hotel structure in 
 Switzerland. It occupies a whole block, with its grand 
 front overlooking the lake, down to the edge of which the 
 grounds of the National gracefully slope. The structure 
 is of stone, and its public rooms are magnificent. 
 
 The Hotel de L'Europe is a pleasant house about a 
 mile from the business part of the town. It stands in 
 its own well shaded grounds, on a main drive. 
 
 A few steps from the National Hotel and the Kursaal 
 is the Beau Rivage Hotel, not too long a walk from rail- 
 way or steamboat and yet in a quiet and beautiful loca-
 
 1 98 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLA ND. 
 
 tion, affording choice views of the lake and surrounding 
 mountains. The Beau Rivage was erected twenty-three 
 years ago, but the house has since been greatly im- 
 proved. New public rooms have been constructed, the 
 plumbing is new and so is the furniture. 
 
 The Beau Rivage, as before remarked, is in a quiet 
 neighborhood, and moreover, it is a very select house, 
 well suited for families for a protracted stay. If you want 
 brass bands and high life it is easy to enjoy them for an 
 hour or the whole evening. Step across to the National or 
 to one of the other large hotefis down the street, and you 
 will soon be in the midst of a bustling and busy life. 
 
 A feature with the National, the Beau Rivage and the 
 Sch weizerhof is that each of these three hotels has a 
 library of several hundred choice volumes for the use of 
 its guests. The books are uniformly bound and each one 
 bears the name of the hotel on the cover, in gold letters. 
 
 But the Beau Rivage has another feature which is 
 altogether unique in hoteldom, so far as my experience 
 goes. It has its own fish ponds fish ponds in the house. 
 The manager argues that trout only make a perfect dish 
 when they are perfectly fresh, so he has a couple of 
 trout tanks in the basement in which fresh water is 
 flowing constantly and in which a good supply of trout 
 and a few other kinds of fish are kept. 
 
 There are two tanks, each about three feet wide by 
 four feet long and three feet high. Beside them con- 
 veniently stands a hand net. Does a guest order a dish 
 of trout ? The chefs assistant is quickly transformed 
 into a disciple of Izaak Walton and, luck or no luck, he 
 will very quickly " land " as many fish as may be re- 
 quired. I have since learned that there is a hotel in 
 Bale which also has its tanks and keeps its fish alive, 
 ready to be caught. 
 
 The manager of the Beau Rivage, Mr. Richert, has 
 had hotel experience in London ; he was for ten years 
 in a Nice hotel, and to quote a slang expression that was
 
 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLA ND. 199 
 
 current in New York some years ago, he " knows how 
 to keep a hotel." 
 
 The rates at Lucerne hotels are not high. At the 
 majority of the leading houses these figures rule 
 Rooms, from three and a half francs ; breakfast, one 
 and a half francs ; luncheon, three and a half francs ; 
 table d'hote dinner, five francs, without wine. These 
 figures, at the Beau Rivage, Schweizerhof and some 
 other hotels, include lights and service ; at the National 
 these items are charged for separately as " extras." 
 
 The Beau Rivage is open from April to October, the 
 National and Schweizerhof are open the entire year. 
 
 In some of the Swiss hotels you not only place outside 
 your door on retiring, your shoes, but your clothes also- 
 those which you wish brushed. A hook is placed on the 
 'door-casing on which to hang your clothes. 
 
 They will cheat you at the railway stations in Italy, if 
 they can, and the officials on steamboats which ply the 
 Swiss lakes will try to overcharge you if they discover 
 that you are not familiar with the charges or with the 
 current coins. If you are making much of a tour in 
 countries whose language you do not understand, by 
 far the best plan, is to purchase tickets of Cook or Gaze. 
 You pay these agents only the regular fares, and hold- 
 ing their tickets saves you a deal of time, trouble and 
 annoyance. In the stations of all the principal cities of 
 Italy and Switzerland you will find a Cook agent in uni- 
 form, with the word " Cook" in large silver letters on 
 his black cap. He will aid you in registering and hand- 
 ling your baggage, he will secure for you the best seats 
 in the train, and otherwise make himself useful without 
 a fee. His employer receives a commission from the 
 railway companies. About travelling with Cook's par- 
 ties I know nothing except from hearsay, but I have 
 purchased and used Cook's tickets, and heartily recom- 
 mend others to do so those more particularly who are 
 not linguists. But in any and every case you save an- 
 noyance and confusion at the stations.
 
 THE DE SOTO. 
 
 SAVANNAH, GEORGIA. 
 
 The city of Savannah, with its balmy air, its far famed 
 Bonaventure Cemetery, its pretty parks, broad streets 
 and many natural attractions (acknowledged to be one 
 of the most attractive Southern cities), was long avoided 
 by many pleasure tourists, because it had no hotel 
 worthy of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and 
 doing a business of over one hundred and thirty millions 
 of dollars annually. 
 
 Savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world 
 New Orleans excepted. Savannah has deep water and 
 good docks. Sometimes as many as thirty English ships 
 are in this port at the same time. They take cotton di- 
 rect to foreign ports. Savannah is easily approached 
 from North and South : presently it is to have communi- 
 cation with the west direct from Kansas City. When 
 these and other contemplated improvements are made, 
 Savannah expects to experience an era of great pros- 
 perity. It is predicted that the city will double its popu- 
 lation in the next ten years. 
 
 300
 
 SA V ANN AH, GEORGIA. 201 
 
 Anyone who doubts that Savannah is steadily moving 
 forward in prosperity has only to take a glimpse at the 
 tax returns made to the city treasurer for 1891, to havB 
 the doubt quickly dispelled. In 1890, the returns of 
 personal property footed up $9,948,048, and in 1891 they 
 were considerably over $10,000,000, the increase being 
 about $500, ooo. The banks alone in '91 made returns of 
 $506,000 in excess of 1890. This shows that there is a 
 great demand for banking institutions. Real estate has 
 increased $1,300,000. 
 
 Such being the present condition and future prospects 
 of Savannah, it was time that some movement were 
 made for the better entertainment of visitors, so at last 
 the citizens put their heads together and concluded that 
 no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions, the 
 climax of success is only capped by railway facilities and 
 first class hotels. 
 
 Mr. H. B. Plant, head of the Plant System, furnished 
 the railway facilities, and now the citizens of Savannah 
 have supplied the hotel. They formed a stock com- 
 pany, subscribed a million of dollars and opened the De 
 Soto, two ye#rs ago, which proved to be exteriorly one 
 of the handsomest houses in this country, if not in the 
 world, and interiorly one of the best appointed in 
 keeping with the American idea. 
 
 Savannah never had a habit of going across the seas 
 for hotel names. It boasts of no Victoria, no Bucking- 
 ham, no Imperial, but it has a Screven, named after a 
 prominent Georgia family ; a Pulaski, named for a mil- 
 itary hero, and now a De Soto, in honor of the discov- 
 erer of the Mississippi -river. Savannah is nothing if 
 not patriotic. It has a Monterey square, a Forsyth park, 
 and among its monuments are the noble columns erected 
 to perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes 
 Jasper, Green and Pulaski. 
 
 The De Soto cost a round million of dollars. It occu- 
 pies an entire block.
 
 202 SA V ANN AH, GEORGIA. 
 
 Within five minutes' walk of the house is Forsyth 
 park, with its acres of forest trees, and plenty of japon- 
 icas and roses in full bloom at this writing, January 26. 
 In the centre of this park there is a handsome fountain, 
 modeled after the grand fountain in the Place de la 
 Concorde, Paris. It is a mistake and a pity to half hide 
 it behind japonica trees and rose bushes, from six to 
 eight feet high. 
 
 It is very enjoyable to sit in any of Savannah's pretty 
 parks these days, say between noon and four o'clock. 
 There is no danger of taking nor of feeling cold. 
 At night and in the early morn the air is cool (36 to 42 
 degrees), but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy any- 
 where from 56 to 76 degrees. It is an old habit of mine 
 to carry a thermometer in my satchel, so I am not de- 
 pendent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay for my 
 facts and figures concerning the temperature. Frost is 
 rarely seen in Savannah, and they never get a sight of 
 snow unless some of the "beautiful" article should 
 remain on the car roofs of trains coming from the 
 North. 
 
 The De Soto can accommodate four hundred guests, 
 and besides, the dining-room and the smaller " early 
 breakfast-room " on the main floor, there is a banquet- 
 ing hall on the first floor in which two hundred guests 
 can sit down comfortably. A novel feature for a hotel 
 is a gymnasium, on the sixth floor, and above this, at the 
 very summit, there is a large " Solarium," fitted up with 
 chairs, tables and lounges. Here you can sit, bask in 
 the sun, and, as Walt Whitman says, "loaf and invite 
 your soul. " In this elevated position you get a magnifi- 
 cent view of Savannah and the surrounding country as 
 far east as the Tybee coast, twenty miles distant. 
 
 P. S. This is called a cold winter in Savannah, yet at 
 six A.M., Thursday, January 29, the thermometer marked 
 sixty degrees.
 
 THOMASV1LLE, GEORGIA. 
 
 Time, eleven A.M., February i. Your correspondent 
 is seated at his bedroom window ; there are two large 
 windows in the room, and both are wide open. The 
 apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot ceil- 
 ing ; it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature 
 in it is seventy-two degrees. This is not said from 
 hearsay, nor is the record taken from a hotel thermome- 
 ter, which may be unreliable, but from a portable ther- 
 mometer of my own. 
 
 WHEN THE PLACE WAS SETTLED. People ask, " How 
 old is Thomasville : when was it first settled ? " The 
 writer can answer this question because he had the good 
 fortune to be presented to no less a personage than 
 Mrs. M. A. Bower, a most charming woman to look at 
 and to converse with, who is proud of her fifty-six years, 
 but whom you would judge to be at least ten years 
 younger. Mrs. Bower was the first white child born in 
 Thomasville, and in the first real house erected in the 
 place. It stood on the present site of the Mitchell 
 House. Mrs. Bower is the daughter of Colonel and Mrs. 
 Edward Remington who came here from Pawtuxet, R. 
 I., in the year 1828. Set it down for a fact then that 
 Thomasville is three score years old. 
 
 LOCATION. Thomasville, the capital of Thomas 
 county (this is not from a gazetteer, please believe), 
 stands three hundred and thirty feet above sea level, 
 being on the. highest ground between Macon and the 
 Gulf of Mexico, in the Uplands of Georgia. It is two 
 hundred miles from the Atlantic, sixty miles from the 
 Gulf of Mexico as the bird flies, twelve miles from the 
 
 203
 
 204 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 
 
 Florida State line, a thirty-three-mile drive from Talla- 
 hassee, and is reached from Jacksonville at the South or 
 from Savannah coming from the North in a few hours 
 by way of Waycross or Jesup, two places not particu- 
 larly attractive to the tourist but quite useful as way 
 stations, affording junctions for several lines of rail- 
 road. 
 
 HEALTH AND PLEASURE. Thomas ville was at one 
 time simply a health resort : people with consumption 
 or other lung or throat diseases came here for relief and 
 they found it. They, the qickly people, still come to 
 get well ; but beside being a health resort it is now also 
 a place for pleasure. Fashion has set its seal on Thom- 
 asville. New York and Boston are well represented 
 among the visitors, but the West especially favors 
 Thomasville, and St. Paul, for its size, sends more peo- 
 ple probably than any other city. A number of St. 
 Paul citizens have cottages here and have set up fine 
 establishments. Ladies dress for the morning ride or 
 drive ; they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for 
 the evening dance. Ladies at the hotels exchange visits 
 with the cottagers, also with the townspeople, the per- 
 manent residents giving strangers a warm, Southern 
 welcome. 
 
 FEATURES OF THE TOWN. To-day Thomasville has 
 churches of all denominations (including a Jewish place 
 of worship), two hotels far superior to any between 
 Baltimore and Jacksonville, unless exception be made 
 of the new Oglethrope at Brunswick : a number of 
 smaller hotels, numerous boarding houses, two daily 
 newspapers, several good private schools, a flourishing 
 college for girls and one for the other sex, a railway di- 
 rect to the town and five thousand inhabitants. The 
 boys' college is a branch of the State University and has 
 at present two hundred and fifty pupils. The other in- 
 stitution,' called "Young's Female College," was en- 
 dowed by a Georgian, and the charge for tuition is so
 
 THOMASVTLLE, GEORGIA. 205 
 
 low as to be nominal, ten dollars per year to each pupil. 
 So the religiously inclined have ample opportunity to 
 worship at their particular shrine, and the educational 
 advantages of Thomasville are good. 
 
 NATURE'S GIFTS. The reputation of this place was 
 gained by its dry and balmy atmosphere, its even tem- 
 perature, its health-giving pine forests and by its free- 
 dom from cold or sudden changes. The United States 
 Signal Service report shows that the average winter 
 temperature is about fifty-five degrees, and the average 
 temperature last July, the hottest month here, was 
 eighty-two degrees. While the winter days are warm 
 the mornings and nights are pleasantly cool, and it never 
 snows here. Once during the past fourteen years they 
 did have a flurry of snow. It happened on a Sunday 
 and the churches remained empty ; so interested were 
 the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they ne- 
 glected the church and all took to snowballing. You 
 need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor wear, except, 
 perhaps, for an evening drive, or for rainy days ; but an 
 umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the 
 sun is indispensable. I am speaking of needing such an 
 article at the present time. February i. 
 
 THE PINEY WOODS OAK. To those coming from the 
 North the sight of the trees in full leaf is as agreeable 
 as it is strange. The pine, live-oak, hemlock and holly 
 all have their branches thickly covered. There is a 
 gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the Piney Woods 
 Hotel whose spreading branches measure sixty feet 
 across. There is still a larger one in the town, which 
 people travel miles to see. It spreads ninety feet across. 
 But beauty does not always consist in bigness. The 
 Piney Woods oak is both beautiful and big. but its sym- 
 metrical beauty is its main attraction. Is it too warm 
 on the hotel porch ? Are the sun's rays too fierce ? 
 Cross over the road, fifty yards distant, and seek a com- 
 fortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of
 
 206 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 
 
 the pines, in what is popularly termed "Yankee Para- 
 dise, " but known more correctly as Paradise Park. It 
 includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives. There 
 is no ice to make your step unsteady, but the needles of 
 the pines render the paths rather slippery. 
 
 WHEN TO COME. You can pick violets in the open 
 air and pluck in the fields a small bouquet of daisies at 
 this writing, but to see Thomasville at its best, I am 
 told that you most come a little later than this, when 
 the grass is all green. You can then pluck wild roses 
 to your heart's content. Theft the pear orchards will be 
 in full bloom, and the dogwood blossoms are a sight to 
 behold. I have been here only three days and have 
 seen no rain, but the soil is sandy and one can readily 
 believe what enthusiasts say, that an hour or two after 
 a long and heavy rain walking is again pleasant, the 
 rain having percolated through the ground, leaving the 
 surface perfectly dry, if not hard. And there is seem- 
 ingly no end of lovely walks. You get out of the 
 town in five minutes, and if you are bent on pedestrian 
 exercise, and have an eye for beautiful scenes, turn your 
 steps in any direction and you will make no mistake. 
 
 WHAT TO BRING. If the ladies of your party are 
 equestriennes, by all means let them bring their riding 
 habits with them : everybody rides. Driving, too, is 
 largely indulged in, the roads being hard, smooth and 
 unusually wide. They extend for miles and miles 
 through the pine woods, and their picturesque beauty 
 you will please imagine ; it is not easy to describe it 
 without using more adjectives than I have at my com- 
 mand en route. To sportsmen let me say, do not come 
 without your dog and gun or you will never forget nor 
 forgive the error. Wild turkeys abound, there are snipe 
 in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice. You see 
 them on the road while driving, and the crack of the 
 rifle is heard almost constantly. Quail on toast is a 
 regular dish at the hotels at least once a day.
 
 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 207 
 
 THE NEGRO AND HIS WORKS. Without desiring to at- 
 tack political problems, to raise dead issues or to discuss 
 questions that have long since been answered, one can- 
 not resist the temptation to obtain information on the 
 result of the emancipation proclamation, for although it 
 is over a quarter of a century old the subject yet has 
 great interest for this country, and for other countries 
 also, for that matter. Here is a statement of facts and 
 figures in condensed, nutshell form upon which chapters 
 and books might be written the colored population of 
 Georgia pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve 
 millions of dollars, the realty being estimated at about 
 one half its actual value, and their personal property is 
 estimated at about six millions of dollars. There are in- 
 stances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves 
 to their former owners, some of the blacks still serving 
 their white masters. Among the servants of Mrs. M. A. 
 Bower, proprietor of the Piney Woods Hotel, are two 
 who formerly served this same "master," one of them 
 being the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel. 
 
 THE HOTELS. There is a standing joke about certain 
 Southern cities where there are only two hotels, that, 
 whichever one you select, you will wish that you had 
 chosen the other. Although the hotels south of the line 
 have greatly improved of late years, the old joke will 
 still apply in certain towns and cities. Not so, however, 
 at Thomasville. There are only two hotels here known 
 to fame, and you will make no mistake if you select 
 either. It is a matter of surprise to find two such hotels 
 in such a comparatively small town. The Mitchell 
 House and the Piney Woods Hotel (I take them alpha- 
 betically) are both large, new, handsomely furnished 
 and perfectly appointed houses, containing all the mod- 
 ern improvements, and erected with strict regard for 
 the laws of sanitation. The Mitchell House is an im- 
 posing solid brick structure, four stories high, two hun- 
 dred feet square, with a cultivated park of two acres
 
 208 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 
 
 sweeping before its front piazza.. This little park is re- 
 served for the hotel guests and their friends. 
 
 The Piney Woods Hotel is within gun-shot distance 
 of the Mitchell House, on the same street, with a front 
 measuring three hundred and fifty feet, the other side 
 overlooking Paradise Park, of which I have already 
 spoken. The Piney Woods stands, as it were, and as 
 its name might indicate, on the very edge of the pine 
 forests, and yet it is only a five minutes' walk frym the 
 post-office and a ten minutes' drive from the depot. 
 The pamphlet issued by thp proprietor tells you that 
 " the Piney Woods is modelled similar to the Grand 
 Union Hotel, at Saratoga Springs, "but this is a mistake 
 of the compiler of the work, and is no compliment at all 
 to the house under consideration which is far more 
 pleasing to the eye, exteriorly, than the Grand Union 
 at Saratoga. The Piney Woods is built after plans of J. 
 A. Woods, a New York architect, who planned the new 
 Grand Hotel in the Catskill Mountains, and with its 
 wide and lofty verandas, its projecting towers, its pretty 
 corners here and there, is a facsimile on a somewhat 
 smaller scale of that favorite and beautiful house. Any 
 one who has seen the hotel on the line of the Ulster and 
 Delaware Railway, can picture to himself the Piney 
 Woods Hotel at Thomasville. The late Captain Gillette, 
 who kept the Mountain Hotel, kept this one also for 
 years. William E. Davies is now the manager of the 
 Piney Woods. 
 
 Each hotel, the Mitchell House and the Piney Woods, 
 will accommodate nearly three hundred guests, 
 
 THE BEST ROUTE. The Atlantic Coast Line, called 
 "the short route to Florida, " is by all odds the best 
 way to reach Thomasville from the Eastern States and 
 from New York. The vestibule train, "the Florida 
 special " of the Pennsylvania Railroad, which traverses 
 this route, is the quickest and most luxurious train, 
 with its dining-room car, library car, etc., but this only
 
 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 209 
 
 leaves New York on three days of each week, Mondays, 
 Wednesdays and Fridays, and you must apply for seats 
 some time ahead. The ordinary trains, with Pullman 
 sleepers, are good enough for the majority of travellers, 
 and they afford people opportunity to stop over and see 
 the cities en route Washington, Richmond, Wilming- 
 ton, N. C. , Charleston and Savannah. Or, if you prefer, 
 you may come direct from New York, in about thirty- 
 two hours, to Waycross, Ga. , where there is connection 
 for Thomasville, distant four hours. But if you "stop 
 over," you must be prepared to travel in ordinary 
 coaches between the Southern cities ; parlor cars are 
 not attached to local trains. It would help Thomasville 
 materially if the Savannah, Western and Florida Road 
 (everybody in this section calls it "the S. F. & W.") 
 were to run a quick train with a parlor car to meet the 
 Florida special. The return would not be great at first, 
 but it would prove profitable to the road ultimately. 
 Strangers and tourists make it a point to go to the 
 stations to see the Pennsylvania vestibule train at differ- 
 ent points of the road, and the colored folk stand and 
 stare at the beautiful appointments with eyes and 
 mouth wide open. "Only God's people," remarked 
 one surprised darkey, " can ride in them carriages."
 
 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 
 
 If you tell people in New York that you are "going 
 to Brunswick for the winter," they will probably look 
 at you with surprise ; some will say, " Do you mean New 
 Brunswick?" having in mirfd New Brunswick, N. J. ; 
 while others will say, "Brunswick; where is Bruns- 
 wick, in what State? I never heard of it." Well, new 
 as Brunswick may appear to the majority, it is an old 
 place, having been settled and laid out in the year 1763. 
 
 WHERE is BRUNSWICK? Brunswick is in the South- 
 eastern part of Georgia, not far from the Florida border, 
 sixty miles below Savannah, seventy miles north of Jack- 
 sonville. The city covers an area of two miles square, 
 and is handsomely laid out, the whole adorned by some 
 of the most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be 
 found in the South. It is situated on a small peninsula 
 jutting out into the sea, surrounded on three sides by 
 salt water, but protected from the severity of the ocean 
 winds by outlying islands. Brunswick is only eight 
 miles from the sea and there are no fresh water streams 
 or swamps within many miles to breed malaria, the air 
 being constantly renewed and vivified by the health- 
 bearing breezes of the ocean, that render it, as official 
 statistics show, one of the healthiest cities in the Union. 
 
 Among its natural advantages are its climate, uni- 
 form and mild in winter, its geographical position being 
 but little north of St. Augustine, ice being seldom seen, 
 and snow rarely, if ever ; its forests of pine, palm and 
 moss-covered oak, its healthy soil, pure water, semi- 
 tropical foliage and plants, the magnificent drives, and 
 last, but by no means least, its superior water facilities, 
 
 210
 
 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 211 
 
 having one of the finest harbors in the South Atlantic. 
 As to the trees : I have stood under the far-famed old 
 oaks of England, I have seen the moss-covered trees of 
 Bonaventure, of which all Savannah proudly boasts, and 
 admired the great oak at Thomasville, whose branches 
 measure ninety feet across ; but there is an oak here 
 which belittles them all for age, strength and size. 
 Under the "Lovers' Oak" at Brunswick it is said that 
 one hundred teams can find shelter from the sun's rays. 
 It is called Lovers' Oak because a marriage was once 
 performed under it, several hundred witnesses being 
 present at the open air ceremony. 
 
 JEKYL AND OTHER ISLANDS. There are a number of 
 beautiful islands near here which are fertile almost be- 
 yond one's imagination. Everybody has heard of Jekyl 
 Island, and all true sportsmen know it. It is famous as 
 the location of one of the finest club-houses in the 
 country, the island being a paradise for the sportsman 
 and fisherman. It is literally full of game ; deer, wild 
 turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors are 
 sure of good sport. Being a natural game preserve, 
 upon which the general public have not been permitted 
 to hunt, the increase has been rapid and the supply 
 practically inexhaustible. The club-house, seen from 
 the river, is a noble structure. Then there is St. Simon's 
 Island, which lies off the coast at a distance of seven 
 miles from Brunswick, and is noted for the wonderful 
 fertility of its soil. It excels especially in fruits 
 oranges, peaches, figs, bananas, olives, lemons, limes 
 and pecans, growing in great profusion. The climate is 
 almost perfection. Ice is seldom seen, and snow has 
 been seen here but once within the present century, 
 
 A DOCTOR'S CERTIFICATE. Brunswick's peninsular lo- 
 cation, almost surrounded by salt water, with immense 
 pine forests on the north, extending hundreds of miles 
 into the interior, conduces to a state of healthfulness 
 excelled by no other place of its population in the whole
 
 212 -A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 
 
 South. Dr. H. Buford, Health Officer of the City of 
 Brunswick, makes the following official statement : 
 ' ' The result of my observation and experience as a 
 practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent 
 thereto, during a residence of seven years, proves that 
 our mortuary statistics show a minimum death rate 
 Poughkeepsie, N. Y. , not excepted. During an active 
 practice of seven years I cannot record a single case of 
 scarlet fever or diphtheria. Hay fever and asthma are 
 unknown here. " 
 
 A MISTAKE OF CONGRESS. Brunswick is a century and 
 a quarter old, but it went along lazily and slowly, like 
 many other Southern towns and villages, and the war 
 somewhat retarded its progress. Nor was it helped by 
 a committee from Congress which, some years after the 
 war, took a cruise along the Atlantic coast to examine 
 the facilities of our seaports. Congress has not earned 
 its peculiar reputation without deserving it. This com- 
 mittee may have included members who were learned 
 in the law, or who knew how to hoe potatoes, but of 
 harbor advantages and the requirements of ships they 
 must have been innocently ignorant. They reported 
 that " the harbor of Brunsjvick was twelve feet deep." 
 This went abroad and ships went elsewhere. How 
 near to the truth came this report may be judged by 
 one instance. On Friday, February 3, 1888, the English 
 steamer, the Port Augusta, cleared this port drawing- 
 twenty feet of water and carrying 6,559 bales of cotton, 
 weighing over three millions of pounds and valued at 
 300,000. It was the largest cargo ever cleared from a 
 South Atlantic port, and ships drawing twenty-four 
 feet of water enter and leave here without the slightest 
 danger of touching bottom. So much for the congres- 
 sional report. That the shipping facilities of Bruns- 
 wick are becoming known may be judged also from the 
 following facts and figures : During the whole month of 
 February, 1887, the exports of cotton, naval stores and
 
 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 218 
 
 lumber amounted to $78,000 while for only the first Jive 
 days of Feb., 1888, the exports amounted to over $300,000. 
 These figures are given on official authority from the 
 collector of the port. Are more significant statements 
 needed to show the marvellous advance and improve- 
 ment of this place ? Here they are the exports in the 
 year 1886 amounted to less than a million dollars ; in 
 1887 they footed up over two and a quarter millions. 
 The imports of 1886 were less than $5,000, the imports 
 of 1887, $48,000. 
 
 A CITY BY THE SEA. How has all this seeming pros- 
 perity and increase of business on the water affected 
 the land? Well, in 1884 the population of Brunswick 
 was 3,000, four years later it was 8,000 ; the increase of 
 taxable property was thirty-three per cent, greater in '87 
 than '86 ; the comptroller of the State says that this 
 county (Glynn) has made for the last twelve months a 
 larger pro rata increase than any other county in the 
 State of Georgia, for eight years ago there was not a 
 brick building in the place ; now there are blocks and 
 blocks of brick stores and fine dwellings ; increase in 
 the value of the land is almost fabulous, and there is a 
 new brick hotel here, "the Oglethorpe," which cost 
 with furniture, $160,000, the equal of which for site and 
 style cannot be found between Washington, D. C., and 
 St. Augustine, Fla. 
 
 THE OGLETHORPE. The new hotel is an evidence of 
 and in keeping with the new order of things. The loca- 
 tion of the building is choice on the highest ground in 
 Brunswick, affording fine views and rare sanitary facili- 
 ties. The house is not merely considered to be, but is 
 fire-proof. So perfect is the protection against fire 
 that the company insuring the property reduced the 
 usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the charac- 
 ter of the building and the excellence of the fire system 
 adopted. The Oglethorpe stands on the principal 
 street, near the railway depot and steamboat wharf, on
 
 214 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 
 
 a plot of ground about three hundred feet square, the 
 main building having three stories and being two hun- 
 dred and sixty-seven feet long, with wings running back 
 one hundred and forty feet. It is the largest building 
 in the place, and with its graceful round brick towers at 
 each corner, and its turrets and spires jutting through 
 the roof, here and there, it is the most prominent ob- 
 ject you see as you approach Brunswick from any di- 
 rection, either by land or water. The Oglethorpe, be- 
 ing new, is the latest exponent of all that is best and 
 most approved in modern hotel building, and of course 
 has all the "modern improvements." The drawing- 
 room is a grand apartment, reminding you of the 
 parlor of the United States at Saratoga ; the dining- 
 room is lighted from three sides, and seats three hun- 
 dred persons ; the main floor, the entrance, office and 
 lower hall are tiled with Georgia marble in beautiful 
 colors, and there is a covered porch for promenading 
 which reaches up to the second story. It is two hun- 
 dred and forty feet long, and from twenty to twenty- 
 five feet wide. 
 
 The bedrooms of the Oglethorpe are larger, as a rule, 
 than those of most hotels. Even the "small rooms" 
 connecting with the suites are twenty feet long by 
 eleven wide, and have two windows, each seven feet 
 high by three feet wide. The "tower " rooms, with their 
 open fire-places, carved wooden mantels, tiled hearths, 
 rich Moquette carpets, portieres of velours, and lace cur- 
 tains on brass poles are as handsome as the bedrooms 
 of any other hotel that the writer has seen, and if the 
 walls and ceilings were artistically decorated and fres- 
 coed, the "tower" rooms of the Oglethorpe probably 
 might compare with those palatial bedrooms of the Hotel 
 Metropole in London. A peculiarity of the Oglethorpe 
 is that there are no back rooms ; each one faces the 
 street or overlooks the bay, but a few hundred feet dis- 
 tant. Between the bay and the house the grounds of
 
 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 215 
 
 the hotel are attractively laid out. As to the table and 
 general management of the Oglethorpe, it is only neces- 
 sary to say that the manager is Warren Leland, Jr. , a 
 member of the celebrated Leland family a name long 
 associated with some of the leading hotels in the 
 United States. 
 
 EN ROUTE TO AND FROM FLORIDA. Brunswick is 
 reached by rail from the North by the Atlantic Coast 
 Line and the Savannah, Florida and Western Railroad 
 by way of Savannah and Waycross, Ga., and from Jack- 
 sonville, Florida, by railway to Fernandina in one hour, 
 and thence by steamboat in four hours. The water route 
 is very pleasant. The boats, if not splendid specimens 
 of naval architecture, are at least staunch and comfort- 
 able. You take an inside route, hug the shore, pass 
 many beautiful islands and get glimpses of most pictur- 
 esque scenes. 
 
 Tourists contemplating a visit to Florida for health or 
 pleasure do well to break the journey at Waycross or 
 Jessup, visit Brunswick and see the charming country 
 thereabouts. The run is made from Waycross to Bruns- 
 wick in three hours and ten minutes. 
 
 The route Southward is from New York to Quantico, 
 Va. , over the Pennsylvania tracks ; from Richmond to 
 Charleston via Atlantic Coast Line ; from Waycross to 
 Brunswick by the Plant system. Leave New York 
 (Desbrosses or Cortlandt streets) at 9 P. M. or midnight 
 through car to Waycross.
 
 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Key West, in Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Island), de- 
 rived its name, so says history, from the fact that the 
 island was strewn with humafti bones. The conquerors 
 didn't take time to bury the bones of the conquered. 
 The change, corruption Spaniards call it, from Cayo 
 Hueso to Key West was easy. 
 
 The United States bought the island from Spain in 1 8 1 6. 
 The formation is coral and it contains about two thou- 
 sand acres. The Hon. C. B. Pendleton, editor and pro- 
 prietor of the Equator-Democrat, and a man of culture 
 who has served in the State Senate, showed me an 
 island, or key, as they call it in these parts, distant 
 from Key West five miles, and which he believed to be 
 the most southerly point in the United States. Another 
 authority informed me that Cape Sable, distant from 
 Key West about sixty miles, is the most southerly 
 point. 
 
 To quote Editor Pendleton, Key West is distant from 
 the tropical line only thirteen miles. Doctors will differ; 
 another authority gives it as sixty miles. I am inclined 
 to think that on the tropical question my editorial 
 brother is correct in his estimate, because Key West is 
 only distant from Cuba eighty or ninety miles. 
 
 The climate is about the same as that of Havana. In 
 the Cuban capital the mercury never goes below sixty 
 degrees ; in Key West the lowest point recorded is fifty- 
 one. 
 
 Key West is the ninth port of entry in the United 
 States, collecting more import duty than all the other 
 
 216
 
 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 217 
 
 ports in the States of Florida and Georgia and one-half 
 of Alabama combined. 
 
 In 1860 the population was about two thousand, one- 
 quarter of whom were colored ; but in 1869, after the 
 rebellion in Cuba, the population of the island began 
 to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand, 
 and they claim that it is the largest city in Florida. 
 
 The inhabitants are mixed, very much mixed Cubans, 
 negroes, Americans, Chinese, etc. The negroes come 
 from Nassau, Cuba and other places. 
 
 Key West was bought of Spain, as before remarked ; 
 the island is nearer Cuba than any other land, it is 
 not in any sense American except that it flies the 
 American flag, and it seems to be now, to all intents 
 and purposes, a foreign place a Spanish colony, as it 
 once was. Spanish is the prevailing language, and 
 Cubans predominate. All the public notices and hand- 
 bills are printed in two languages, several newspapers 
 are printed in Spanish, and only one, the Equator- 
 Democrat, in English. It is difficult to make a purchase 
 or to transact any business unless you speak Spanish, 
 and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars 
 who can understand you if addressed in English. The 
 car drivers swear at their patient, sadly abused mules 
 in hard Spanish. All the American residents and busi- 
 ness men speak the prevailing tongue, or are learning it 
 as fast as they can, for without it they cannot so readily 
 conduct business. 
 
 Speaking of the street cars, they are all open, of 
 course, winter and summer. In fact, there is never any- 
 thing resembling northern winter weather in Key West ; 
 light summer clothes and Panama hats are worn the 
 year round. 
 
 But you are not obliged to patronize street cars. Rid- 
 ing in private conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare 
 than even in London, or in a country town on the Conti- 
 nent. In London the smallest cab fare is one shilling
 
 218 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 
 
 (twenty-five cents) ; in Key West you can ride a short 
 distance for a dime, and a longer distance for fifteen 
 cents. The conveyance is a very light and very dirty 
 wagonette on four wheels. The driver is as dirty as his 
 vehicle, and his horse resembles those poor skeletons 
 which I have seen blindfolded and pushed into the arena 
 at a Cuban bull fight. 
 
 Such tropical fruits as the sugar apple, the guava, 
 mango, the soft and sweet sapadillo, thrive in Key 
 West. The climate and salt atmosphere combine to 
 make it the home of the pajrn. There are many tall, 
 slender and beautiful cocoanut trees, some with their 
 graceful leaves waving as high as eighty feet in the air, 
 making an interesting and pretty picture against a 
 cloudless sky. 
 
 But the cultivation of the cocoanut in Key West might 
 be made very profitable as well as picturesque. At 
 present there are comparatively few of such trees ; their 
 cultivation ought to be encouraged. The tree has no 
 tap root, and will thrive on a thin soil. It comes into 
 bearing eight or ten years from the nut ; and after that 
 the fruit grows and increases every month in the year. 
 Like the orange tree, the older it gets the more it bears. 
 A bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for than an 
 orange grove, and the revenue therefrom is greater. It 
 requires no cultivation, and is as hardy in its section as 
 the cabbage palmetto, that grows everywhere in Florida. 
 Besides, cocoanuts can be shipped in any month of the 
 year ; they require no packing, no care in handling, 
 and they will bear transportation for thousands of 
 miles. There is a good market for green cocoanuts in 
 these parts as well as for matured ones. When the nut 
 is fully grown, but green, it contains about two glasses 
 of clear juice, milk we call it in the North. It is consid- 
 ered a healthful beverage in the tropics and sells per 
 glass in the streets of Havana for the equivalent of five 
 cents.
 
 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 219 
 
 Nature has favored Key West with a perfect climate. 
 It is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico, as blue and as 
 beautiful as the famous Danube. Nature in fact has 
 done everything she could to make the place desirable 
 as a residence for man, but man has done little or noth- 
 ing for himself, thus far, and if the truth must be told, 
 notwithstanding its favorable natural conditions and its 
 lovely surroundings, Key West is not yet a desirable 
 place to live in. It has no sanitary laws, for nothing 
 whatever has been done with a view to sanitation, and 
 yet with the salt ocean all around the little island, how 
 easy it would be to make it healthy and clean, for it 
 is neither one nor the other. There is no such thing as 
 system, no sewerage whatever in the town excepting 
 one iron pipe which leads from one hotel, the Russell 
 House, to the sea, and even that one pipe is allowed to 
 clog occasionally. 
 
 A liberally illustrated and large edition of the Equa- 
 tor-Democrat was issued in 1889, which presents a very 
 rose-colored view of Key West. In that paper I find 
 that " the pleasant streets running at right angles are 
 as smooth and hard as adamant." I am not certain 
 that I am very well acquainted with adamant, but I 
 know that the streets of Key West are unpaved and 
 that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets I ever 
 saw. As I have lived in Baltimore, in New York and in 
 New Orleans, my testimony ought to be accepted on 
 such a theme. I speak of Key West in fine weather; 
 what it must be in wet weather I don't like to imagine. 
 If nothing but very deep ruts, holes and great gullies in 
 the roadway resemble adamant then is Key West ada- 
 mantine beyond doubt. 
 
 There is not a boot-black in the town ; none is needed. 
 Nobody thinks of blacking his shoes ; it would be ab- 
 surd. I spoke on this point with a young New Yorker 
 who hails from the fashionable precincts of Madison ave- 
 nue. He is a business man who is liberal in the matter
 
 220 A CUR AN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 
 
 of money, usually dressy, and extremely neat in his 
 person. He has been in Key West six months, and in 
 all that time not a brush has passed over his shoes. 
 
 I regret to differ with my learned and courteous 
 friend, the editor of the Democrat, on the subject of 
 hotels. Let him speak for himself. He says that " The 
 Russell House, the leading hotel in the city, is second 
 to none in the State in accommodations. " Now I had 
 an idea that St. Augustine and Jacksonville and Tampa 
 were in Florida, and that there were such hotels ' ' in 
 the State "as the Ponce de Leon and The Cordova at 
 St. Augustine, and the new Tampa Bay Hotel at Tampa 
 Bay, not to mention a number of other first-class houses 
 "in the State." 
 
 Directly opposite the Russell is the Duval House. 
 You may never have heard of it ; it is not one-third the 
 size of the Russell House. I know nothing of the apart- 
 ments of the Duval. for I investigated no further than 
 the dining-room, but that was enough to establish its 
 good reputation. It will be a long time before I forget 
 how beautifully garnished a dish they made at the Duval 
 of a red snapper, and the delicious flavor of their ome- 
 lette souffle"e remains with me still. The Duval is pre- 
 sided over by a Cuban lady, Mrs. Bolio, who kept for 
 years one of the leading hotels in Havana. She is evi- 
 dently a woman who knows what good living is. 
 
 Cigar-making is a very large and important industry 
 in Key West. The place was selected for cigar-making 
 because the climate is suited to the "curing" of to- 
 bacco in the leaf, and because it is near Havana. 
 There is something also in the name. Everybody does 
 not know that this (Spanish) island is United States 
 territory, and some smokers if they see a "Key West " 
 label on a box of cigars believe, without stopping to 
 think, that they are smoking a foreign-made cigar. 
 Now a Key West cigar if made from Havana tobacco 
 of fine quality has just as good a flavor as if it were
 
 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 321 
 
 made in Cuba, but the Key West cigar can be sold at a 
 lower price because the import duty on cigars is much 
 higher than the duty on the raw material. 
 
 Having the same climate as Havana, the best climate 
 in the world for tobacco curing, and the cigars being 
 made by Cubans, who are the best cigar-makers in the 
 world, Key West turns out just as good cigars as can 
 be produced anywhere provided always that tobacco 
 of the first quality is used. And the cigar need not 
 consist entirely of Havana tobacco. A cigar of choice 
 flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos Havana ' ' filler " 
 and "binder, "with, say. a " Connecticut seed " or Suma- 
 tra wrapper. 
 
 The manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided 
 largely in building up the business of Key West. One 
 authority says that there are two hundred factories, 
 employing five thousand operatives, and transacting a 
 business amounting to seven millions of dollars annu- 
 ally. But this report may be exaggerated. However, 
 here are some more figures, and if the reader is mathe- 
 matically inclined he can draw his own conclusions : 
 Key West during 1890 turned out one hundred and forty 
 millions of cigars. 
 
 There are very few Spanish or American cigarmakers 
 in Key West ; the majority are Cubans, with a very 
 small sprinkling of negroes. There are so many fac- 
 tories and so many operatives that, although it is a 
 cigar-producing place, very few cigars indeed are sold 
 at retail. Everybody smokes, every one invites you to 
 smoke ; cigars are almost as free as the air. It would 
 be a paradise for a young dude who has a slender purse 
 and who is addicted to the weed. 
 
 Upon the courteous invitation of P. Pohalski & Co. , 
 \vh<> have a branch in Havana, with headquarters in 
 Franklin St., New York, I paid a visit to their factory, 
 which is one of the largest in Key West, and I was much 
 interested in what I saw. Pohalski & Co. erected their
 
 222 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 
 
 own factory, upon their own ground, and it is one of the 
 most imposing edifices in Key West. They also built 
 upon their own land a number of small houses which 
 they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure ; for 
 its size it is quite a respectable colony. 
 
 Although very large, employing several hundred 
 hands, the factory is orderly, exceedingly clean and 
 neat, showing good government. Perfect system reigns 
 throughout the entire establishment. The first floor is 
 used for the business offices, for cases of tobacco and 
 for the " strippers ; " the whole of the second floor is oc- 
 cupied by cigar makers, ana the third floor is used by 
 the "packers," also for curing leaf tobacco and for stor- 
 ing cigars in boxes. 
 
 A "stripper" is one who, with the dexter finger and 
 thumb of the right hand pulls the stem from the leaf 
 while the leaf is damp, the leaf being held in the left 
 hand. It is done by a dexterous and quick movement, 
 not a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem. The 
 most costly leaves, for wrappers, are only entrusted to 
 experienced operators. The strippers in this factory 
 are numbered by scores. They are all females, all 
 Cubans, and range in age from ten years old to women 
 of fifty. 
 
 It is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman 
 with habits of refinement, to see the older women, while 
 at their work of stripping, smoke long, thick cigars. 
 They hold the cigar between their teeth and seldom 
 remove it, not even to talk. They are rough-looking 
 cigars, rolled into shape by the women themselves from 
 the leaves they are stripping. 
 
 A more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar- 
 making floor, above. You will be surprised upon enter- 
 ing to see a man standing erect in the centre of the 
 room, book in hand, reading aloud. You cannot help 
 but notice, although Spanish may be Greek to you, that 
 the reader's voice is powerful and well trained, reach-
 
 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 223 
 
 ing to the extreme corners and to the most distant ears 
 on the vast floor. He is a professional reader. The 
 several hundred men club together, each paying a nom- 
 inal sum for the reader's services. In this way, while 
 engaged in their work, they hear the news of the day 
 and are regaled with the latest Spanish novel. 
 
 " Packing " cigars is a technical term. It is not sim- 
 ply to tie them up with pretty silk ribbons and place 
 them neatly in a box. A packer is one who assorts the 
 colors also. It is a very nice and delicate piece of work. 
 It demands a good eye for color and long experience, 
 and then it can only be done in a certain light, of course 
 not by artificial light, nor unless the day is bright. 
 
 An overcast, murky and heavy sky is not good for 
 packing assorting, it might be called. In a few hun- 
 dred loose cigars placed on a table ready for ' ' pack- 
 ing," the casual observer will probably see only three 
 or four colors. They are first assorted roughly to bring 
 together those of decided colors light brown, medium, 
 dark brown, etc. Then a pile of dark or light shades is 
 gone over again and again until the different piles of 
 cigars are alike, as if they were all made from one leaf 
 and turned out by machinery. The packer also dis- 
 cards a cigar that is not perfectly made, or one not uni- 
 form with the rest. A special few, exact as to form and 
 hue, are selected for the top row, to catch and please 
 the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised. 
 A good packer is paid better than any other operative 
 in the business. Men and women are 'employed in it, 
 some of them earning as high as twenty-five or thirty- 
 five dollars per week. 
 
 The sponge trade is also a very large and important 
 industry here. The sponges are found in this part of 
 the Gulf of Mexico, and the trade gives employment to 
 a great many people. I visited the largest sponge 
 house, that of Arapian & Co., and saw there in different 
 stages, sponges valued at a quarter of a million dollars.
 
 224 A CUBAN CTTY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 
 
 Such a stock of sponges, as you can easily imagine, oc- 
 cupies much space. My only surprise was to find such 
 valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building. 
 A fire would spread easily, and the whole would be 
 rapidly consumed. 
 
 I have spoken of the dirty, unpaved streets of Key 
 West ; it would be unfair not to mention a lovely drive 
 which you can take for a few miles on the edge of the 
 Gulf. You go around the old forts, you see lighthouses 
 and other interesting objects en route, the bracing air 
 from the Gulf fans your cheeks, the ocean is spread out 
 before you, and if you retuiih in the early evening, and 
 near dinner time, you will most likely be favored with a 
 grand sunset, and you will surely have a keen appetite. 
 
 Key West is reached from New York by steamers of 
 the Mallory line, and from New Orleans by New Or- 
 leans and Havana steamers, but decidedly the best 
 and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the 
 Plant line of steamers which leave Tampa, Florida and 
 Havana, Cuba, three times a week. The " Mascotte " 
 and " Olivette " were built for this route. They are 
 both staunch, swift, beautifully appointed ships, whose 
 commanders were in the Atlantic service for years, the 
 "Olivette" being the fastest boat of her size in the 
 world a model vessel. 
 
 If you are going to Key West for pleasure it is possi- 
 ble for people to go there with that end in view you 
 will go from New York to Jacksonville via the Pennsyl- 
 vania and Atlantic coast lines and there take the Jack- 
 sonville, Tampa and Key West Railroad, although part 
 of this "railway" journey consists of a sail on the Gulf 
 of Mexico, from Tampa. 
 
 The island, with all its objectionable features, has 
 churches of different denominations, it has convents, 
 good schools, and has one large substantial and beauti- 
 ful brick and stone building for a custom house, for 
 which the government appropriated one hundred thous- 
 and dollars. 
 
 Key West has a police force numbering fourteen offi- 
 cers, including men of all colors and several nationalities.
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE. 
 
 AN ANCIENT CITY MODERNIZED. 
 
 What a contrast, to leave the dust and dirt of Key West, 
 its unpaved roadways, full of deep ruts, large holes and 
 great gullies : Key West, with its mixed population of 
 twenty thousand negroes, Cubans, Chinamen and white 
 folks : Key West, minus sidewalks, and minus many 
 evidences of a high state of civilization : what a con- 
 trast is it to arrive in this beautiful city of the South, 
 with its smooth-paved streets, its cleanly and aristo- 
 cratic air, and its three wondrously beautiful Spanish 
 hotels, all within speaking distance of each other. It is 
 like leaping, if I may use such an expression, from hades 
 to heaven. 
 
 The changes here within the past iour years are great. 
 Most important to the tourist is the erection of a railway 
 bridge which crosses the St. John's River. Four years 
 ago you were obliged to stop at Jacksonville if you ap- 
 proached from the north ; if from the south, you 
 steamed across on a ferry-boat from Palatka. Now you 
 take your seat in a drawing-room car at Jersey City, in 
 the North, or at Tampa, if you approach from the 
 South, and you need not leave the car until the conduc- 
 tor calls out " St. Augustine " thirty-one hours by ves- 
 tibuled train from New York, twelve hours by the West 
 India Fast Mail from the Gulf, at Tampa. 
 
 As to other changes, much land has been reclaimed 
 from the river, miles of roadway have been asphalted 
 and paved with wooden blocks ; the old fort is being re- 
 stored, for which work the government has appropriated
 
 226 ST. A UGUSTINE. 
 
 $i 5,000 ; many new houses have been built, all of co- 
 quina and in the Moorish style ; to the oldest house in 
 the town has been added a new stone tower ; there has 
 been erected a new City Hall, which includes a fine 
 market ; and to crown it all, as it were, there is a new 
 church, a Memorial Presbyterian Church, built in mem- 
 ory of the beautiful daughter Mr. Flagler lost two years 
 ago. The structure is so attractive, so pleasing to the 
 eye, that in driving away from it you find yourself con- 
 stantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural 
 lines in view as long as possible. 
 
 It is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of 
 the Ponce de Leon Hotel, the drawing-room of which, 
 with its magnificent proportions, its onyx fire-place, its 
 ceiling decorations, its rich carpets and furniture, and 
 its rare paintings by Bridgman, Koppay, and other 
 artists, is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world. 
 To call it palatial is no compliment to " the Ponce " par- 
 lor, for I have seen no apartments in royal palaces that 
 are more pleasing, and I have been favored with a view 
 of many palaces in many countries. 
 
 The smooth and pleasant walk around the Alcazar 
 Hotel measures just half a mile. The colored boys 
 know : they use it semi-occasionally for a foot or bicycle 
 race : " twice around the Alcazar is one mile " they will 
 tell you. 
 
 One of the novel features of the Alcazar is the swim- 
 ming pool, into which the sulphur water rushes up from 
 the artesian well with great force. There is room in the 
 pool (40 by 1 20 feet) for scores of swimmers, and there is 
 always a number of visitors looking from the galleries 
 above on the lively scene below. With the mercury 
 ranging between 70 and 80 the sulphur water is indeed 
 refreshing ; and they say it is quite invigorating. Tem- 
 perature of the water, 75 degrees. 
 
 Mr. Flagler has bought all the land around and about 
 his three hotels, so that nobody can erect anything any-
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE. 237 
 
 where near him. He is not the man to do anything by 
 halves. 
 
 The sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a 
 suite I occupy in the castellated tower on a corner of the 
 Hotel Cordova. The walls of the building are of gray 
 coquina. Outside each window is a small and separate 
 "kneeling balcony," protected by ornamental iron rail- 
 ings, painted a reddish brown such balconies as you 
 see in some buildings in Madrid. The windows have 
 white lace curtains and the shades are alternately blue 
 and crimson contrasting pleasantly with the neutral 
 tint of the outer walls. To the east, within stone's 
 throw, is Cordova Park ; to the west, the same distance, 
 is the one-acre park of the Alcazar, with its tropical 
 foliage, pretty walks and handsome fountain ; while 
 diagonally opposite, same distance again (about one 
 hundred feet), loom up the terra-cotta turrets, towers, 
 arches and gabled roofs of the Ponce de Leon Hotel, 
 with its grand park of four and a half acres. This may 
 convey some idea of the situation ; to describe the scene 
 requires the pen if not the pencil of an artist. 
 
 The manager of these three grand hotels in St. August- 
 ine is O. D. Seavey, who is also entrusted in summer 
 time with the management of the magnificent Hotel 
 Champlain, on Lake Champlain. In the winter season 
 Mr. Seavey 's address is St. Augustine, Fla. ; in the sum- 
 mer he should be addressed Hotel Champlain, Clinton 
 County, N. Y.
 
 ABOUT TAMPA. 
 
 THE INN. PORT TAMPA, FLA. 
 
 Tampa is of interest historically, being the place 
 where Ferdinand De Soto landed May 25, 1539. From 
 here he started on his search for the mines of wealth 
 supposed to exist in the new world, which resulted in 
 the discovery of the Mississippi river. It is here also 
 that Narvaez, having obtained a grant of Florida from 
 Charles V. of Spain, landed with a large force April 16, 
 1528. 
 
 Tampa is on the Gulf coast of Florida, two hundred 
 and forty miles from Jacksonville. There are two trains 
 daily with Pullman cars from Jacksonville and St. 
 Augustine to Tampa, passing through Palatka, Sanford 
 and Winter Park, both having direct connection with all 
 Eastern and Western cities and one being a through 
 train from New York. 
 
 Its rapid growth during the past seven years from 
 about eight hundred inhabitants to as many thousands, 
 has been brought about by the Plant system, which 
 completed the South Florida railroad to Tampa for the 
 purpose of developing Tampa commercially. 
 
 Dr. Long, a United States army surgeon, wrote of 
 Fort Brooks, at Tampa, "This post has always been 
 considered a delightful station." Dr. Long's reports 
 and other reports to the surgeon-general at Washington 
 show it to be one of the most healthful stations in the 
 country. 
 
 Peninsulas have always been thought desirable be- 
 cause of their climate, which gives them advantages 
 
 228
 
 ABOUT TAMPA. 229 
 
 over other localities, and among peninsulas Florida 
 is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly 
 as it is affected by the warm waters of the Gulf of 
 Mexico. 
 
 The investment of large capital in constructing a new 
 hotel in Florida with the expectation of drawing to it 
 the requisite patronage, demanded a knowledge of the 
 requirements of winter tourists who visit the place for 
 health or pleasure. Those requirements have been 
 carefully studied by Mr. H. B. Plant, president of the 
 Plant Investment Company, acting under the advice of 
 eminent scientists, in the selection of Tampa. The new 
 hotel is situated on the west side of the Hillsborough 
 river where it empties into Tampa bay, opposite to and 
 facing the city, which is within easy walking distance. 
 From the river to the front of the hotel there are exten- 
 sive lawns and flower beds, with orange, palm and other 
 tropical trees, the hotel grounds and property including 
 twenty-two acres. At the rear of the house there is a 
 long stretch of pine lands. 
 
 As you view the house at a distance, from the deck of 
 a steamer, or from a car window, with its long stretch 
 of brick front, its iron and stone trimmings, its many 
 towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed, balloon- 
 shaped domes, each surmounted by a shining gold 
 crescent, it impresses you at once as being a great 
 oriental palace. And this idea is aided by the palms 
 and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is 
 surrounded. 
 
 The oriental idea also strikes you as you enter. There 
 is a grand " office," the ceilings are supported by stout 
 marble columns, and the music-room, the drawing- 
 room, and all the minor rooms on the main floor are 
 furnished in the very best taste, the matter of expense 
 never seeming to be a question with those who 
 selected the furniture and decorations in different parts 
 of the world. It is safe to say that very few winter
 
 230 ABOUT TAMPA. 
 
 or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly 
 furnished. 
 
 The hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and 
 is practically fireproof, the outer and inner walls being 
 of brick, with steel' beams and concrete floors. There 
 has been the most approved scientific work in drainage 
 and plumbing, and there is an abundant supply of good 
 water. On each floor the wide hall extends the entire 
 length of the main building 512 feet. There are no in- 
 side rooms. Every room has the sun during some por- 
 tion of the day, and a largd number of suites have pri- 
 vate baths. The house is heated by steam, in addition 
 to which there are open fire-places in the rooms. The 
 latest improvements have been introduced in lighting. 
 
 Mr. Plant did a great deal for Tampa when he ran his 
 railroad down there. His lines of steamers from Tampa 
 to Havana and Mobile have greatly helped the pros- 
 perity of the place, and now he has crowned his good 
 work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regard- 
 less of the cost. If there was not already a Plant City in 
 Florida, I should suggest to change the name of Tampa to 
 Plant City. The house will accommodate four hundred 
 guests ; the rates are five dollars per day. It is only open 
 during the winter, from Christmas until the first of April. 
 But do not go to Tampa without your summer clothes. 
 
 All the above relates to the big new hotel at Tampa 
 Bay, but all of it is written at the Inn, 'in Port Tampa, 
 distant from Tampa Bay proper nine miles. The Inn is 
 " little," it accommodates only seventy-five guests, but it 
 is a gem of a hotel. It is built on, or rather over, the water 
 on piles, and is like an island, being actually surrounded 
 by water. There is always a pleasant breeze on one 
 side of the house, and a breeze is very grateful in this 
 latitude. As I write, the mercury in a thermometer 
 hanging outside my bedroom window marks 75 degrees ; 
 this is at 5 P.M., Saturday, January 31. We sleep with
 
 ABOUT TAMPA. 331 
 
 open windows, and nothing more than your pajama or 
 a sheet is necessary for a covering. 
 
 Two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely 
 of sliding-windows through which you can see wild 
 ducks and fish in great quantities. I have seen wild 
 ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open win- 
 dows of this dining-room. You can throw a line into 
 the water as you sit at dinner and if it be properly 
 baited you will probably find a mullet at the end of the 
 cord before you reach your cafe noir. 
 
 It goes without saying that there are good sailing and 
 fishing at Port Tampa : Spanish mackerel and the pom- 
 pano abound, the latter conceded by epicures to be one 
 of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world. Here 
 also is the famous tarpon Silver King he has been 
 christened. In fact Port Tampa is a very paradise for 
 sportsmen. It is easy to supply the table with oysters, 
 fish and game in profusion. The table, by the way, is 
 liberally provided, and the service by Swiss and French 
 waiters is good. 
 
 The dining-room of the Tampa Inn reminds you of 
 the dining-room of the Hygeia Hotel at Old Point Com- 
 fort, not for its size, but for its water surroundings, and 
 the scene outside brings up recollections of the Surf 
 Hotel at Fire Island. Picnic Island, across the Gulf one 
 mile, might be a bit of Long Island. But there the 
 similarity ends because the Inn, unlike the Surf Hotel, 
 is a new house and is luxuriously furnished. 
 
 Steamers leave here weekly (every Tuesday) for 
 Mobile, and tri- weekly (Monday, Thursday and Satur- 
 day), for Key West and Havana. 
 
 The railway depot conveying you to Tampa Bay (fre- 
 quent daily trains), is at the door of the hotel, and from 
 this same depot you can get a through car to Jackson- 
 ville or to New York. 
 
 The rates at the Inn are four and five dollars a day. 
 It is proposed to keep it open all the year.
 
 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The name Monterey means King's Mountain and was 
 bestowed on the place in 1602 by Don Sebastian Viz- 
 caino in honor of Jaspar de Zuniga, Conte de Monterey, 
 at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It was he who sug- 
 gested and projected the expedition undertaken by 
 Vizcaino. 
 
 When the members of this expedition returned to 
 Spain the place returned to its primitive condition and 
 nothing was heard of it till a band of Franciscan mis- 
 sionaries arrived on this coast in 1768, one hundred and 
 sixty-eight years after the first discovery. This expe- 
 dition came under the direction and guidance of the 
 president of the band, Father Junipero Serra. 
 
 At the risk of being charged with sacrilege, I will in- 
 terpolate right amid this ancient history a bit of fresh 
 and interesting news imparted to me by a driver. He 
 showed me from the road a high plateau overlook- 
 ing the sea, where plainly to the naked eye were to be 
 seen preparations for receiving a statue, which is to be 
 in place and to be dedicated before long. It will be in 
 honor of Father Junipero before mentioned; it will cost 
 ten thousand dollars, and the wife of Senator Leland 
 Stanford will foot the bill. The site for the statue is a 
 magnificent one, and if the work of art be worthy of its 
 position, the city of Monterey will have something it 
 may be proud of. 
 
 There's a " History of Monterey County" by E. S. 
 Harrison. I didn't know before I came here and looked 
 into it that Monterey was the first place settled in the 
 State of California; that the first custom house in the 
 
 232
 
 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 233 
 
 State (now an old rookery) was established here ; that 
 Monterey was once not only a bustling city, but the 
 capital of the State. It is not a wholly deserted village 
 now, but its commercial glory, like that of Newport, 
 R. I. , which was once a greater port of entry than New 
 York, has departed, never to return. But Monterey will 
 always be dear to the hearts of Californians, from its 
 historic associations and connections. 
 
 "The first European lady to come to California," says 
 Harrison, "was the wife of Governor Fages, who ar- 
 rived in Monterey in 1783. Their child, born about 1784, 
 was probably the first child born in California of Europ- 
 ean parents." 
 
 Monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from 
 San Francisco, and is easily reached in about four hours 
 by the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Company. 
 On the way, in San Mateo county (en passant, what 
 musical names all these counties and mountains have), 
 within ten to forty miles from the starting point, Third 
 and Townsend streets, you pass the rural homes ot 
 San Francisco's millionaires. Some are set in great 
 forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in peren- 
 nial bloom. Next, the beautiful city of San Jose comes 
 in view, and a flourishing city it appears to be from the 
 car windows. As the train rolls along you keep in sight 
 for many miles the dome of the Lick Observatory, 
 which glistens in the sunlight OP. the summit of Mount 
 Hamilton. 
 
 And then you haven't eyes enough to take in and en- 
 joy the beautiful views of ocean, river, valley and 
 mountain as the train dashes along the Coast Range 
 mountains on your left, on the right the Santa Cruz 
 mountains, with the sun setting behind them a glori- 
 ous moving panorama. 
 
 After passing what is called the most fertile valley in 
 the State Monterey is reached, if that be your destina- 
 tion, but there is a more important station one mile this
 
 234 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 side of Monterey. When the conductor calls out " Hotel 
 del Monte " very few passengers in the cars remain 
 seated, and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town 
 of Monterey, almost empty. 
 
 The first action which the Pacific Improvement Com- 
 pany took when they concluded to make of this place a 
 summer and winter resort was to purchase some land 
 for the purpose, so they purchased seven thousand acres. 
 Part of this domain was a forest, and of this they 
 selected for their hotel "garden" a simple matter of 
 one hundred and twenty-six acrjs. Forty acres of this they 
 cultivated in flower-beds, lawns, vegetables and fruit ; 
 the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it, 
 after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to 
 lay out within their gates a few miles for drives and 
 paths. 
 
 Then it occurred" to them that it would be well to have 
 a grand outside drive as an additional attraction, so they 
 made one, cutting away mountain, forest and bluff ; 
 going through the woods, four or five miles ; skirting 
 the ocean for the same distance ; altogether a nice little 
 post-prandial drive of seventeen miles. But this is not 
 much for California. The drive being private prop- 
 erty it is used only for the guests of the Hotel del 
 Monte, the owners of which keep it in the best order, 
 and in summer time have it watered. It is macadam- 
 ized and in as good condition as the drives in Central 
 Park, New York. 
 
 The road winds toward the bay through a forest of 
 oaks and pines. For two or three miles it will be cool, 
 dark, shaded and sweet smelling, and presently you get 
 a view of the ocean. If the wind is high, as it was on 
 the twenty-second of March, you will see foaming white- 
 caps in the distance, and the spray dashing wildly on 
 the bare brown rocks in the foreground, making a pic- 
 ture which, on the day we saw it, was awfully grand. 
 I don't mean this in the sense that girls do when they
 
 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, 235 
 
 say a thing is "awfully nice ;" I mean that the boister- 
 ous waves were almost frightful with their impetuous 
 rush and their terrible roar. 
 
 To quote dear old Fitz-Greene Halleck, whose statue 
 in Central Park few recognize : 
 
 The winds of March were humming 
 Their parting song, their parting song. 
 
 It was a habit of my predecessor on the Home Journal, 
 General George P. Morris, to publish annually this 
 sweet song of Halleck's in the Home Journal during the 
 first week of March. It was a singular fancy of Morris's 
 and it pleased his brother poet. 
 
 But I am getting away from my story and the surf. 
 The seals didn't seem to mind the roaring surf or howl- 
 ing wind. Their unearthly bark formed part of the 
 grand chorus. They tossed their heads and rolled their 
 ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their com- 
 mand, which is not saying much for their sylph-like 
 movements. No; water is their element. 
 
 If you expect to see the seals of the same color as the 
 sealskin sacques worn by women, you may not see the 
 seals at all, for they match in color with the brownish 
 gray rocks on which they romp. They have not gone 
 through the process of " London dyeing." In fact they 
 are not fur seals, and, in reality not seals at all in the 
 popular sense, but sea lions. I accepted the driver's 
 statement that there were five hundred seals on the 
 rocks. 
 
 The cultivated grounds of the Hotel del Monte aston- 
 ish you with their size and beauty and with the neatness 
 and order in which they are kept. Probably not else- 
 where is there such variety in floriculture. Everything 
 from everywhere seems to thrive here. Nor do I know 
 of any section of country where there are such noble 
 oaks and pines, but probably the company claim too 
 much when they say that " the garden is the finest, the
 
 236 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 most gorgeous, the richest and most varied in all the 
 world." It seems to me that the Tuileries Gardens are 
 richer and that the gardens in Hyde Park are more 
 pleasing to the eye and the sense of smell. I speak of 
 the floral display only , but I saw the foreign gardens at 
 their best season and the Del Monte gardens in March. 
 Flowering plants, habitats of regions below the equator, 
 bloom freely at Del Monte throughout the winter in the 
 open, retaining their original habit without the aid of 
 glass. 
 
 The trees are wonderful, i carry with me not only a 
 thermometer but a tiny tape measure, the latter in my 
 pocket. I asked the driver to stop as we were driving 
 through the grounds, while I measured a pine and I 
 found that it was four and a half yards in circumference 
 near the ground. The driver told me how tall it was, 
 but I will not quote him as I'm not giving you " Califor- 
 nia stories. " This pine was not pointed out nor did I 
 select it for its size. There were others within a few 
 feet of where this giant stood just as large, and for all I 
 know there are hundreds on the .ground much larger. 
 
 Of course the palm abounds, all trees of tropical 
 growth are here; there are calla lilies for borders, vio- 
 lets, heliotrope, nasturtium, honeysuckle in wild pro- 
 fusion, and this in March, mind you. Is there ivy? 
 "Well, rather," as an Englishman might answer such a 
 question. A leaf now lies on my table which measures 
 five inches across. The grounds are in charge of a 
 skilled landscape gardner with a force of thirty-five men 
 English, American and Chinese. 
 
 Foreigners from other lands may rail against the 
 Chinese as much as they please, and our legislators may 
 be right in excluding them lest they overrun the coun- 
 try, but it must be said in their favor that they are a 
 peaceful, industrious set, and there are no better ser- 
 vants for indoor or outdoor work. Under certain con- 
 ditions, however, they are as obstinate as mules. When
 
 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 237 
 
 you engage them you must be exceedingly careful in 
 giving them instructions, for they will always continue 
 to do what they are at first told to do; you cannot 
 change their ways. 
 
 Mr. George Schonewald, 'manager of Hotel del Monte, 
 while we were chatting in his office, illustrated it to me 
 in this way: " Observe that Chinaman wiping carefully 
 the casing of that white door. He was told when he . 
 first came here that he was to do that sort of work at 
 this time of day, and if the heavens fall he'll do it. If I 
 were to ask him this minute to leave that door and pol- 
 ish this plate glass window he might obey, but it would 
 upset him for the day, if not for all time. If you change 
 your mind and want the work done in a different way 
 you had better change your Chinaman, you can't change 
 their ways. This is the general experience with Chinese 
 labor in California. 
 
 And this brings me to the fact that nearly all the 
 walls and all the interior woodwork of these great build- 
 ings are painted white. The lack of color becomes a 
 little tiresome to the eye, but one thing comforts you, 
 it is kept white not a mark, not a spot to mar its per- 
 fection. Chinamen are always washing either doors, 
 windows, surbase, or whatever part of the floor is not 
 carpeted; all is pure white except the floor of the beauti- 
 ful dining-room, which is of dark English oak kept 
 highly polished. 
 
 The series of buildings is in the modern Gothic style, 
 the main building three hundred and fifty feet front, 
 with a central tower eighty feet high and wings or an- 
 nexes two hundred and eighty feet long, showing an 
 entire floor area of sixteen acres. An acre or two, more 
 or less, is nothing in California. The bed-room in 
 which this is written is an ordinary room here, eighteen 
 by sixteen feet. Even the marble wash-basin is worth 
 measuring three feet three in circumference. Run- 
 ning water, gas, fireplaces; and closets built with par-
 
 238, MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, 
 
 tition walls in every room. There are five hundred and 
 ten rooms, and seven hundred people can be accom- 
 modated comfortably. 
 
 I am surprised here, as I have been elsewhere in Cali- 
 fornia, at the low rates which obtain at hotels. A 
 placard on the door of this well-furnished room, with 
 beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious bed, reads: 
 " Rate for this room, with board, for one person $3.50; 
 for two $6.50. With bath-room $4 and $7 per day." And 
 in the bath-room there appears to be an inexhaustible 
 supply of boiling water. There is no charge made in 
 the ladies' billiard room, which adjoins the parlor; no 
 charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake. 
 
 If the plumbing is right, and so it appears to be, there 
 is no trouble with the question of drainage, the ocean 
 being at the door. The drinking water is brought from 
 Carmel river, eighteen miles distant, in the mountains. 
 A ton of ice per day is made on the premises. Some of 
 the vegetables are raised near the hotel, and there is a 
 dairy farm connected with the property measuring un- 
 told acres. 
 
 Native wines are sold at Hotel del Monte lower than 
 I've seen them either here or abroad. It's easy to be a 
 "swell" at Del Monte. A half bottle of Zinfandel is 
 opened and served at table for fifteen cents, and a very 
 good wine it is, too, so far as pleasing my palate goes. 
 But I don't profess to be so well versed in wines as the 
 late Sam Ward or the present Ward McAllister. There 
 is a secret, however, in the low charge for California 
 wine at Hotel del Monte the company have theii own 
 vineyards. What haven't they got ? They have noth- 
 ing less than a Stein way concert grand in the parlor 
 and another in the ball-room. 
 
 There's a feature that almost escaped being put 
 down, and yet it is worthy of special mention. To the 
 first floors in the two annexes you neither ascend nor 
 descend any stairs ; nor do you to the second floor. To
 
 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 239 
 
 the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade ; to 
 the second you ascend an inclined arcade. If you have 
 a room even on the third floor you only walk up one 
 flight of stairs, unless you prefer the elevator. 
 
 This is not a new idea, however. I remember being 
 shown through an old, unused palace in Berlin which 
 was constructed in the same way. A member of the 
 royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism 
 and so was rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this 
 way. The porter at this hotel, wheeling his truck ."up- 
 stairs " loaded with trunks, reminded me of the rheu- 
 matic royalty. 
 
 In all hotels recently constructed there is an electric 
 bell as well as an electric button in every room. If you 
 leave word to be called in the morning, there's no rap- 
 ping outside your door rapping loud enough to awaken 
 every sleeper near your apartment. There is an elec- 
 tric button in the office which connects with a bell in 
 your room, and to this call you will respond. There is 
 no escape from it ; you must get out of bed to stop the 
 ringing. 
 
 The first Hotel del Monte, opened in 1880, was de- 
 stroyed by fire : the new house was erected five years 
 ago. The present manager, Mr. George Schonewald, 
 opened the first house and superintended the construc- 
 tion of the second. As his name indicates, he is not to 
 the manor born. He arrived in this country twenty-five 
 years ago without a penny in his pocket, but with a de- 
 termination to make a position for himself. There is 
 no secret in his success. Anybody can gain success 
 who will follow the Schonewald method. It was not 
 " blind luck " with him, but industry, unceasing indus- 
 try, directed with unusual intelligence. 
 
 Schonewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position. 
 On his arrival in this country he decided to be a practi- 
 cal confectioner, and not long after he received the high- 
 est salary ever paid in the State to a confectioner. Then
 
 340 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 he took to cooking and earned the highest salary ever 
 paid to a cook in the State. Step by step has he moved 
 from the very bottom round of the ladder to the man- 
 agement of one of the largest and finest hotels in the 
 country. 
 
 Schonewald is a worker. He is supposed to take 
 three meals a day, but sometimes his breakfast is not 
 touched till late in the afternoon. From my window I 
 have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before 
 my toilet was completed ; and your humble servant, as 
 a general rule, is out of bed Before seven A.M. The in- 
 terests of the company first, his own comfort last, seems 
 to be this manager's motto, 
 
 Yes, your Germans are workers. Mrs. Schonewald 
 is her husband's helpmeet: she fills the position of 
 housekeeper at Hotel del Monte, and that probably ac- 
 counts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably furnished 
 a rocker here, an easy, arm-chair there, with a neat 
 white "tidy "on the upholstered back. There's noth- 
 ing like a woman's eye, a woman's thoughtfiilness in 
 providing all the tasteful etceteras which make a home 
 comfortable and complete. 
 
 I will close with a clipping from the tourist book, ' ' To 
 the Golden Gate," issued by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
 road: "The Eastern traveller coming to California's 
 coast and failing to see ' Del Monte ' has indeed missed 
 not everything, but a goodly part. "
 
 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 In area, Santa Cruz county is one of the smallest in 
 California, but in resources, productiveness of soil and 
 natural attractions it might be called the largest in the 
 State. In its equable climate is grown almost every- 
 thing indigenous to the north temperate zone. 
 
 The county is in central California, eighty miles south 
 of San Francisco; it has a coast line of forty miles, and 
 includes, according to the United States Government 
 survey, 280,000 acres. So rich is it that there are not 
 more than five thousand acres of waste land in the en- 
 tire county. South of this is the Pajaro Valley, the 
 most fertile spot of California, called ' ' the wonder of 
 the Pacific." 
 
 There is not much stock-raising in Santa Cruz county. 
 The mountains, being heavily timbered, are not adapt- 
 ed to grazing. Nor are citrus fruits cultivated to any 
 great extent; but the apples of Santa Cruz county 
 are superior to any grown in the State, the quality of 
 the wine is unsurpassed in the State, and the remark- 
 able richness of the soil renders the cultivation of pota- 
 toes, beans, hops, sugar beets, etc., profitable to a de- 
 gree unknown in less fertile sections. The vegetable 
 products of the county form one of its most extensive 
 industries. E. S. Harrison, a trustworthy authority 
 in California history, calls Santa Cruz "a vegetable 
 wonderland. " 
 
 Let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region 
 by a comparison. While riding on the Southern Pacific 
 
 241
 
 242 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 railway over the Texas plains, a month ago, the travel- 
 ling auditor of the company, who was on our train, sur- 
 prised me by stating that the company is glad to lease 
 its lands at four cents an acre annually. Land within a 
 couple of miles of where this is written is leased to 
 Chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre annually, 
 and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three 
 hundred dollars. 
 
 The City of Santa Cruz, the principal city and county- 
 seat of the county, lies between the Pacific ocean and 
 the northern side of Monterey bay, about eighty miles 
 south of San Francisco. It nestles among the foot-hills 
 of the Santa Cruz mountains, and its outskirts are 
 bathed by the sea. The city proper has a population 
 of six thousand five hundred, and if East Santa Cruz is 
 included, the population is about nine thousand. The 
 city is growing rapidly. New business houses are 
 constantly going up, capital is coming from the East, 
 and everywhere are evidences of a steady, healthy 
 increase. 
 
 Santa Cruz has good railroad facilities. Two branches 
 of the Southern Pacific run here direct. They are called 
 the broad gauge and the narrow gauge roads. The 
 broad gauge is an important line running through Santa 
 Clara and Pajaro valleys, passing San Jose and the 
 larger towns between San Francisco and Monterey. 
 The narrow guage runs from San Francisco no farther 
 south than Santa Cruz. It is more of a local line and 
 stops at the smaller places places, however, of such 
 great interest to tourists as Big Trees. The steamers 
 of the Pacific Steamship Company plying between San 
 Pedro (near Los Angeles), and San Francisco stop here, 
 regularly, on their way north and south. 
 
 In writing from Hotel del Monte in Monterey, I men- 
 tioned some large oaks and pines ; there are as big and 
 still bigger trees here, or very near here, at a place ap- 
 propriately named Big Trees. It is a ten minute ride
 
 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 243 
 
 on the narrow guage road of the Southern Pacific, or an 
 hour's drive by carriage from Santa Cruz. You need 
 not go to Yosemite, Calaveras or Mariposa to see giants 
 of the forest ; here they are, a grove of 320 acres, some 
 of the trees 300 feet high and 60 feet in circumference. 
 These figures are quoted, but I measured a few speci- 
 mens myself. One about four feet from the ground 
 was 52 feet in circumference. The interior of another, 
 "General Fremont, "had been burned out. Four per- 
 sons beside myself stood inside of it, and thirty-five 
 more, we calculated, could have found room in com- 
 fort. This measured six feet in diameter about five feet 
 from the ground inside measurement the " shell " of 
 the tree being probably a foot thick. There are dozens 
 and scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove, 
 nearly as large. 
 
 The trees are of the famous California Redwood 
 species, the wood hard as flint and very heavy. The 
 largest specimens are named and bear tablets, " Daniel 
 Webster," " General Grant," " General Sherman," "In- 
 gersoll's Cathedral, " etc. Under the shadow of the last 
 named, the honorable gentleman held forth one day to 
 an admiring audience. "Big Trees" is owned by a 
 wealthy widow of San Francisco, Mrs. Walsh. 
 
 Powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest, 
 some of them have been uprooted by nature's convul- 
 sions and lie humbly and horizontally on the ground. 
 I noticed that a few of these were charred. The keeper 
 of the grounds explained that year after year fire had 
 been tried, but the hardy giants would not yield to 
 flame. They are so thick and hard they won't burn as 
 they lie. "Then why not cut them up," I suggested. 
 " Oh !" was the answer, " lumber is worth nothing here ; 
 it is so plentiful. " 
 
 They have done a little "cutting, " however. In ex- 
 change for a dime you will get a piece of red wood 
 quite heavy enough for your satchel, or a piece of the
 
 244 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket. The bark 
 is three or four inches thick. 
 
 This is a famous wine country. We visited the tun- 
 nels of the " Santa Cruz Mountain Wine Company," 
 whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on the 
 hills. The tunnels are dug out of the soft, sand-stone 
 rock and are dark and rather cool. That is to say, the 
 air seemed cool when compared with the atmosphere 
 outside, but as a matter of truth, which is often stranger 
 than fiction, the thermometer showed the temperature 
 in the tunnels to be 52 degrees, and it remains at about 
 that figure all the year round. There are three such 
 tunnels, each 380 feet long, 24 feet wide, and 18 feet 
 high. The vineyards of the company include two hun- 
 dred acres. 
 
 In these deep, cool tunnels the company has stored in 
 great vats no less than two hundred thousand gallons of 
 wine. Bottle after bottle was opened for our party and 
 so cheaply was it held that the glasses were freely 
 washed with the wine'as the different kinds were tasted 
 port, sherries, clarets and white wines. 
 
 The claret has good body, and if you add a little 
 water to it, as the French treat vin ordinaire, it makes a 
 very good drink for a thirsty soul at the dinner table. 
 
 California Angelica has been a popular wine for 
 twenty odd years: the Angelica produced in Santa Cruz 
 is sweet, smooth, oily and delicious. 
 
 A brand of Sauterne so pleased my palate that I or- 
 dered twenty gallons to be shipped to New York. But 
 I'll let you into the secret of this seemingly extravagant 
 order ; the price is only one dollar per gallon and not 
 Jones, but I, paid the freight. In ordering this wine I 
 was guided first, by my own taste it has delicious fla- 
 vor; secondly, I felt assured that it was absolutely pure. 
 The grapes are here, on the spot, ship loads of them, 
 in the season, and there's no incentive for adulteration. 
 
 The well-kept roads and fine drives about Santa Cruz
 
 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 245 
 
 are not its least attractive feature. One of them you 
 can take from the shore, driving over a bridge of the 
 San Lorenzo river, passing among other places the twin 
 lakes, on the borders of which are the summer home 
 and settlement of the Christian Church. You keep the 
 mountains in view all the way, and a turn here or there 
 shows you the city, the bay, or the ocean. 
 
 The three-mile cliff drive, passing Phelan Park, takes 
 you immediately above the rock-bound shore of the 
 Pacific, where you see giant crags upon which the ever- 
 lasting waves have had their effect. Some of the rocks 
 stand off from the shore twenty and fifty feet, and 
 through these the powerful waves have worked great 
 holes, through which the waters rush with a tumultuous 
 roar, dashing their spray far above. These "natural 
 bridges " would be considered a rare sight if they were 
 the only feature of this scene, and would attract people 
 from a distance, but where there is so much to admire 
 and astonish, they are only one among the many mar- 
 vels that here make an embarrassment of pictorial 
 riches. 
 
 The city has three banks, good public schools and 
 water-works ; it is sewered to the ocean, it has electric 
 cars, fine public buildings, and two flourishing news- 
 papers, the Sentinel and the Surf. Good society is not 
 lacking, and beautiful homes abound. Major McLaugh- 
 lin's fine Gothic villa cost 70,000 ; the residence of 
 Mayor Bowman commands beautiful views of the bay 
 and the town ; the home of William Kerr, two miles 
 out of the city, is a handsome structure in the Queen 
 Anne style, having two wide entrances and bay 
 windows, affording extensive views of the valley 
 and bay. Mrs. P. B. Fagen's house on Mission 
 street, one of the principal residential streets, at- 
 tracts the attention of all passers-by. Other pretty 
 homes are those of D. K. Abeel, R. Bernheim, Mr. 
 Glover and Mrs. E. J. Green.
 
 346 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Mr. J. Philip Smith, a New York capitalist, who has 
 travelled far and wide and who passes much of his time 
 in Europe and New York, came here with his family 
 four years ago, bought a two-acre site upon which a fine 
 house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed, 
 laying out the grounds in a tasteful way, making it one 
 of the handsomest residences in Santa Cruz. It has a 
 high and enviable position near the Sea Beach Hotel. 
 
 It reminds you at once upon entering it of a Parisian 
 interior and on closer examination you are not surprised 
 to learn that many of the things of beauty which adorn 
 the rooms had a French origin. The Smiths are great 
 travellers and in their journeyings about the world have 
 "picked up " any number of art works and curios which 
 now find an appropriate resting place. 
 
 One of the finest views here, one of the most beauti- 
 ful of its kind in the State probably, is to be had from 
 Logan Heights, the estate of Judge J. H. Logan. Judge 
 Logan is president of the Santa Cruz Co. Bank and one 
 of the most esteemed citizens of this section. The house 
 not imposing architecturally, stands on a mesa or pla- 
 teau of about twenty acres, in which beautiful roses and 
 other choice flowers bloom the year round. From this 
 elevated position a series of bird's-eye views are spread 
 out before you, the extent, beauty and variety of which 
 are not easily described. 
 
 At this point you are two hundred feet above the 
 Pacific ocean. Immediately below, in the foreground, 
 is the whole" city of Santa Cruz, with its high school, its 
 gardens, reservoirs, depot, hotels, and its church spires. 
 To your left, eastward, are the villages Soquel and 
 Aptos, famous lumber centres. A few miles further off 
 in the same direction, glistens Monterey bay, backed 
 by the Santa Cruz mountains. 
 
 Southward, beyond the city at your feet, winds the 
 bay of Monterey. Look twenty miles further south, 
 and, in this clear atmosphere, you see the sleepy old
 
 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 247 
 
 town of Monterey with the mountains as a background 
 for the picture. 
 
 To your right, westward, is the ocean again alto- 
 gether, forming a number of diversified and beautiful 
 pictures. 
 
 There are a number of good hotels at Santa Cruz. 
 The leading house is the Sea Beach Hotel, of which Mr. 
 John T. Sullivan is the lessee. He has furnished it in 
 good style and it is well appointed. 
 
 Viewed either from the heights or from the shore, 
 above which it stands nearly one hundred feet, it is a 
 picturesque place, with beautifully terraced grounds, 
 gracefully sloping to the beach and ornamented by 
 flowers of every description. Every room in the Sea 
 Beach has hot and cold running water, electric lights 
 and call bells. The parlor is on the main floor, in the 
 corner round tower of the building, and, with its many 
 windows, is uncommonly pleasing. Through or from 
 these windows you get the best features of the scenery 
 hereabouts, from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel 
 grounds to Loma Prieta and the mountains in the dis- 
 tance, or to Monterey, beyond the bay in the fore- 
 ground. 
 
 The leading commercial hotel is the Pacific Ocean 
 House, located on the principal thoroughfare in the 
 centre of the city. It has all modern improvements as 
 well as large, pleasant sample rooms. Mr. John T. 
 Sullivan is the proprietor of this hotel also, which is all 
 that need be said in reference to the excellence of its 
 management. Mr. Sullivan is not unknown to New 
 York. He was a tried friend of Horace Greeley's and 
 a trusted officer under Hon. Thomas L. James in the 
 New York Post-office, in which place he rose after faith- 
 ful service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the 
 newspaper department. Mr. Sullivan has been in Santa 
 Cruz only five or six years. I saw a modest little two- 
 story building in which he started here, "keeping board-
 
 248 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 ers," and he is now interested in the two leading hotels 
 of the town, as part proprietor of one and full proprietor 
 of the other, with the prospect of making his fortune. 
 With success Mr. Sullivan has made many staunch 
 friends, among them the mayor of the town, judges, 
 bank presidents and other leading citizens. 
 
 The steamship landing is nearer the Sea Beach Hotel 
 than it is to any other house ; the broad guage station is 
 quite convenient to the hotel, and the narrow guage 
 station five minutes walk around the corner. Santa 
 Cruz is attractive in winter, $ut in summer it must be 
 delightful. 
 
 NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.
 
 PASADENA. 
 
 People who care more for comfort than for great 
 " style," who prefer a quiet, home-like, family house to 
 one of noise and bustle, those who are seeking health, 
 pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than 
 the music, dancing and entertainments of a fashionable 
 hotel may jot down as a memorandum "The Painter 
 Hotel, at Pasadena, Cal," thirty-five minutes by train 
 from Los Angeles and fifteen minutes by "free "bus" 
 from passenger station. 
 
 It is a new house, was built in '88; it accommodates 
 seventy-five boarders, and is owned and kept by J. H. 
 Painter's Sons. The house is airy, the bedrooms are 
 comfortably (not luxuriously) furnished, the parlor is 
 pleasant, the class of guests select, the table is well pro- 
 vided, and at once, let me say, ere the important fact 
 escapes me, the rates are remarkably low for the nice 
 appointments and good fare supplied only $2.50 per 
 day for transient guests, and from $12.50 to $17. 50 per 
 week to season boarders, for people come to stay for a 
 month or so some spend the whole winter here. The 
 house is open the year round, it being pleasant in sum- 
 mer as well as in winter. It is a mountainous district, 
 and the ocean, from which come soft winds in summer, 
 is only thirty minutes' distant in a south and south- 
 westerly direction. 
 
 Yes, and here are two more facts Pasadena is one 
 thousand feet above the sea, and the Painter Hotel, 
 which is one and a half miles from the centre of the 
 town, stands on the highest point hereabouts. 
 
 249
 
 250 PASADENA. 
 
 The grounds comprised in the property include ten 
 acres, upon which the owners grow their own fruits for 
 the table peaches, apricots, raisins, prunes, etc. 
 
 Do you want to visit the town ? Street cars pass the 
 door of the Painter. And if you want a view it will 
 ' ' P a Y " y u to climb up to the roof of the hotel, where 
 there is an observatory. Three miles off is the Ray- 
 mond Hotel, plain to your view in this clear atmosphere. 
 On one side is the San Bernardino range of mountains, 
 on the other the Sierra Madre range. You may see San 
 Jacinto, ninety miles away, jalso Wilson's Peak, upon 
 which the new observatory, with its powerful lens, is to 
 be placed; and beautiful San Gabriel valley is spread 
 out immediately beneath you, a feature of which, at this 
 writing, are acres of large, orange-hued poppies, so 
 bright that you could almost imagine them aflame, 
 especially if the wind is blowing, thus giving vibration 
 to the thin, delicate leaves. 
 
 The drives are a most delightful feature: to the city 
 proper, with its wide avenues of beautiful residences, 
 to San Gabriel mission, and to "Lucky" Baldwin's 
 ranch, a pleasant afternoon drive. 
 
 Those who are planning a winter or spring tour will 
 thank me for suggesting a visit to the Painter House, 
 but if people demand "style," if they would dance to 
 orchestral music; if they demand great size in a dining- 
 room and grandeur in the drawing-room, and they are 
 willing to pay for it, all these are also obtainable here, 
 or rather at East Pasadena, which is only three miles 
 distant; eight miles from Los Angeles. And the price, 
 $4.50 per day, $21 to $28 per week, is reasonable con- 
 sidering what you get for the money. 
 
 Reference is made to the great Raymond Hotel, 
 which was built in 1 886, where they have a bar, as well 
 as billiards and bowling; elevator, electric lights, a re- 
 ception-room, music-room, grand parlor, and a dining- 
 room which accommodates three hundred persons.
 
 PASADENA. 251 
 
 From your seat at table you see " Old Baldy " looming 
 above the clouds eleven thousand feet and snow-cov- 
 ered ten months out of the twelve, looking like a great 
 sugar-loaf and recalling the Jungfrau, near Interlaken, 
 Switzerland. 
 
 Like the dining-room of its modest neighbor, the 
 Painter Hotel, every table in the Raymond is decorated 
 daily with fresh flowers plucked from the hotel grounds 
 this is "winter," mind you. The grounds of the Ray- 
 mond cover a space of fifty-four acres, so there is no 
 lack of fruit (oranges, lemons, etc.), to say nothing of 
 the roses, blue bells, honeysuckle, dandelions, helio- 
 tropes and violets which may be picked ad libitum if 
 you don't regard the painted signs. 
 
 A view from one of the Raymond's verandas is not 
 much unlike that from the front steps of the Grand 
 Hotel in the Catskills, only the former is far more ex- 
 tensive. 
 
 The proprietor of the Raymond is W. Raymond, of 
 Raymond's Vacation Excursions, Boston, and the man- 
 ager is M. C. Wentworth of Wentworth Hall, in the 
 White Mountains. The post-office address is East Pasa- 
 dena, Cal. 
 
 Orange Grove avenue and Marengo avenue and the 
 paths in the grounds leading to the houses are lined 
 with luxurious fan palm trees, interspersed with great 
 cacti and not a few century plants, which it is proven 
 here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years. 
 The calla lily, that delicate plant which is so tenderly 
 cared for in the East that the flower is wrapped in cot- 
 ton wool, here grows in such profusion that it is used 
 for hedges. You will see fields of " callas " at Pasa- 
 dena, raised for shipment to large cities. The whole of 
 Pasadena is like one immense garden, a garden city 
 indeed. 
 
 PASADENA COTTAGES. You would scarcely credit it. 
 so I won't tell you, that some of the " cottages " in this
 
 252 PASADENA. 
 
 new place are as large and elaborate as those on the 
 New Jersey coast, between Seabright and Elberon, and 
 some of them would not look out of place alongside of 
 the grand Newport "cottages." 
 
 Mr. Kernaghan, editor of the Pasadena Star, has a 
 fine home here. One of the prettiest places belongs to 
 and is occupied by Mrs. Kimball, the widowed daughter 
 of Rufus Hatch of New York. 
 
 Charles Frederick Holder, formerly of New York, 
 came out here six years ago for his health, and having 
 obtained it has made this hi^home. He has a cozy cot- 
 tage on Orange Grove avenue in which is his study, 
 where you may find him at his ease, wearing a short 
 black velvet coat or smoking jacket. 
 
 Mr. Holder is a journalist and litterateur, a frequent 
 contributor to current magazines and leading news- 
 papers. He has published two or three brochures on 
 Pasadena. One of his contributions concerning this 
 section was an illustrated article which appeared in 
 Harper's Weekly. It was entitled " The Rose Tourna- 
 ment," and described a beautiful ceremony which takes 
 place here annually, on New Year's day. Mr. Holder's 
 style is finished and scholarly and his language choice, 
 with no waste of words. Being a man of cultivated 
 taste, with a rare poetic fancy, he is at home here, when 
 treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits 
 and flowers. 
 
 Among others who have built houses and who occupy 
 country seats at Pasadena is Governor Markham, of Cal- 
 ifornia. A Mr. Nelmes has a lovely ten-acre place, and 
 with it a generous heart. A sign placed conspicuously 
 outside his gates reads as follows : ' ' All are welcome 
 to drive through these private grounds and groves. 
 Eastern tourists are each invited to pluck one orange." 
 
 Some people talk of the winter months in California 
 as "the rainy season." This may be an old story, told 
 of what was the case years a^o. It certainly is not 
 true to-day. Examining the records, 1 find that from
 
 PASADENA. 
 
 253 
 
 January 5 to February i of this year there was no rain at 
 all in Pasadena, and in all of that time there were but 
 two cloudy days January 23 and January 28. 
 
 I have been in Southern California now for about three 
 weeks and have seen it rain only on two days and one 
 night two days in Los Angeles and one night, for one 
 hour, at Coronado Beach. 
 
 I don't advise you to throw away your umbrella, as 
 did a tourist from Colorado when coming here, but my 
 experience would show that there is very little use for 
 such an article in Southern California, even in what used 
 to be called ' ' the rainy season. "
 
 LOS ANGELES. 
 
 If you are going from Los Angeles to San Diego, or 
 vice versa, don't go by boat unless you have a great af- 
 fection for the sea. First, you must change at San 
 Pedro, from cars to boat ; second, the waterway occu- 
 pies much more time ; but what is most important, if 
 you go by rail, over the Sante Fe route, you get magni- 
 ficent and diversified views of the ocean, close views of 
 foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains. 
 You pass through a fertile country, see picturesque cot- 
 tages, large sheep and cattle ranches, and great rifts in 
 the mountains that make you smile when you think of 
 "gaps" in the east, which are so widely advertised. 
 The train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles 
 and recalls similar scenic features of land and water 
 which you admire in travelling from Aberdeen to Bal- 
 later over the "Great North of Scotland Railway," a 
 pretty little road with a big sounding name. If you 
 should have to stop on a switch, or for a " heated jour- 
 nal," for five or ten minutes, you can step off the car 
 platform and in a few minutes you can gather a large 
 bouquet of sweet, wild flowers, among them fragrant 
 "mignonette " as they call it here. Southern California 
 might well be named the land of flowers, and this branch 
 of the Sante Fe is entitled to be called by that much 
 abused term, picturesque. 
 
 FLORIDA ORANGES "BEATEN." I wrote last season 
 about some Florida oranges which were shown to me at 
 the Windsor Hotel, Jacksonville. The largest of them, 
 if I remember aright, measured thirteen inches in cir- 
 
 254
 
 LOS ANGELES. 255 
 
 cumference and weighed twenty-three ounces. I asked, 
 " who can beat these ?" They are "beaten." This morn- 
 ing I weighed an orange in Los Angeles which turned 
 the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured 
 nineteen and one-quarter inches. This particular orange 
 was light for its size, because it was not quite ripe nor 
 "full " when picked. It came from George Bunce's grove 
 (pray do not print this "grave") at Rivera, a smalltown 
 nine miles from Los Angeles. The grove was only set 
 out in 1 888. All the oranges on the tree from which this 
 one was picked were as large and as heavy as the one 
 described, but there were only three of them. 
 
 All the ticket brokers' offices, all the fruit stores, segar 
 shops and all the shops of small traders and of places 
 patronized by men have their doors and windows thrown 
 open during business hours. No "protection " from the 
 weather is needed. It is never cold enough for closed 
 doors or windows in the daytime. Nor are some of these 
 places of business closed even at night except by strong 
 iron-wire netting covering the fronts of the stores. This 
 open feature strikes a visitor as very strange at first, but 
 one soon becomes accustomed to it. All through the 
 winter open street cars are used. 
 
 Four years ago, when the Los Angeles boom was at 
 its height, the foundation was laid near Main street for 
 what was intended to be the largest hotel in the United 
 States. There it stood and there it stands to-day (the 
 foundation), the bricks appearing just one foot above the 
 ground level. These bricks enclose a space of two 
 acres. Pullman, of sleeping-car fame, was one of those 
 interested, and he says that the idea has not been en- 
 tirely abandoned. The idea may yet exist but the open 
 lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome. 
 Meanwhile Mr. O. T. Johnson erected a very handsome 
 hotel, The Westminster, on the corner of Main and 
 Fourth streets, which will accommodate two hundred 
 and fifty guests. The site of the Westminster is choice;
 
 256 LOS ANGELES. 
 
 the house contains all the modern improvements; it is 
 well furnished and well patronized. 
 
 As I write, in my bedroom of the Westminster Hotel, 
 looking north I can see, without rising from my seat, 
 great high mountains covered with snow. They pre- 
 sent a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere, 
 with the sun shining upon them. 
 
 That "cranky critic," as the New York Hotel Gazette 
 calls Max O'Rell, would be suited at the Westminster 
 Hotel. O'Rell complains because in American hotels 
 guests have regular seats; tljat each person upon enter- 
 ing the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he 
 pleases. The contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned. 
 A notice is prominently posted near the elevator which 
 reads : " Positively no seats reserved in the dining- 
 room." The waiters are young, intelligent American 
 girls of a good class, some from New York and some 
 from Nebraska, all uniformed in white. They look neat 
 and clean, are alert to take an order and quick in serv- 
 ing it. 
 
 Strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to- 
 day's luncheon in the Hotel Westminster. Fresh-picked 
 strawberries are served every morning for breakfast. 
 Not a dozen or two small, hard berries, such as I have 
 seen served for a "portion" at hotel tables in Florida 
 during February, but a saucerful for each guest of large, 
 ripe berries that have a delicious flavor. Strawberry 
 ice-cream was on the dinner menu the cream made, 
 not from "strawberry flavoring," but of the honest 
 fruit. Fresh peas and Lima beans figure on the bill, 
 also oranges in profusion, picked from the groves 
 hard by. 
 
 All the way between New Orleans, La., and Los 
 Angeles, Cal. , on the Southern Pacific railroad, you pay 
 five to ten cents each for oranges ; as soon as you reach 
 Los Angeles, boys with baskets of the golden fruit 
 swarm about the cars crying out, ' ' Oranges, three for a
 
 LOS ANGELES. 
 
 257 
 
 nickel, six for a dime." If you have a little patience 
 you will hear, ' ' Oranges, eight for a dime, " and if you 
 wait till the train is about to start you can get ten for a 
 dime. Possibly after you are out of hearing they are 
 sold at ten cents a dozen.
 
 "THE CALIFORNIA," IN SAN 
 FRANCISCO, 
 
 California being one of the largest of these United 
 States, the Californians thought that their chief city 
 should have large hotels, so they built in San Francisco 
 the Baldwin House, the Lick House, the Occidental and 
 larger than any of these, the Palace Hotel, "larger 
 than any hotel in existence," it is claimed. Whether 
 this claim is well founded or not, the Palace is large 
 enough to suit the most extravagant American ideas. 
 It occupies three acres of ground. It has seven hun- 
 dred and fifty-five bedrooms; number of rooms all told, 
 ten hundred and fifteen. 
 
 But with the growth of the State and the growth of 
 culture and good taste, Californians and tourists from 
 other States demanded something above and beyond 
 mere size; "and so two years ago was erected "The 
 California." There are several " California Hotels " in 
 San Francisco, in fact, an old house directly opposite 
 the California now calls itself "The New California," 
 probably because the name is new. So many houses 
 with names near alike give trouble to the Post-office 
 people, but the title of the house of which I write is 
 simply " The California." 
 
 It is in a central and accessible part of the city in 
 Bush street, just off Kearney street, which runs nearly 
 parallel with Market, being not far from the Chronicle 
 building, which with its great clock tower running up 
 hundreds of feet in the air, serves as a finger or sign- 
 post from many parts of the city. 
 
 The front is of cedar-colored sandstone, and with its 
 modern, low-arched entrances and high, round towers, 
 
 258
 
 THE CALIFORNIA. 259 
 
 is uncommonly pleasing to the eye. There are one hun- 
 dred and forty rooms in the house, and it is nine stories 
 high, the higher floors being most desirable. The light 
 is better as you ascend, and the views from the win- 
 dows across the bay and the Golden Gate are a con- 
 stant delight. From my bedroom window I can plainly 
 see the graceful movements of the white squadron, 
 which, with the green hills in the far distance make a 
 magnificent picture. The California was erected by 
 " an estate," and the estate considered not the expense. 
 They started out with the idea to build a hotel as near 
 perfection as possible.'and they succeeded. 
 
 Every known precaution is taken against fire. It was 
 the intention from the first to build a house as proof 
 against fire as men, money and materials could make it. 
 Scientists were consulted as to sanitation and plumb- 
 ing, and to these points special thought and attention 
 were given, Such luxurious fittings in marble and silver 
 plate I have never seen surpassed, if equalled; not even 
 in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour through the South 
 and West, and I have visited hotels that cost all the 
 way from one to three millions of dollars. 
 
 Instead of marble and brass, which are used so freely 
 in large American hotels, rare and beautiful woods pre- 
 vail in decorating the interior of the new house. The 
 ground floor is finished in quartered oak, the second 
 in bird's-eye maple, the third and fourth in sycamore, 
 the fifth and sixth in red birch, and the seventh, eighth 
 and ninth in oak. The wood was cut, carved and pol- 
 ished especially for the building, and is of the most ex- 
 quisitely beautiful grain. 
 
 Max O'Rell would be pleased. Printed rules are not 
 posted on all the bedroom doors : it would be an act of 
 vandalism to thrust a nail into hard wood of such high 
 polish and beautiful grain. The furniture and carpets 
 harmonize in colors and are very rich : there seems to 
 have been no thought of economy. The bedrooms are
 
 260 THE CALIFORNIA. 
 
 furnished as you would furnish your own apartment, 
 provided you had a large bank account. They only 
 lack pictures, mantel ornaments and such dainty etce- 
 teras, as you find, for instance, in the bedrooms of 
 Long's Hotel in London, to give them a finished, home- 
 like and elegant air. 
 
 Some idea as to the excent to which this wood decora- 
 tion is carried, may be gained when it is told that the 
 wood used to decorate the parlor and music-room cost 
 six thousand dollars, and yet they are small apartments 
 when compared, say, with tljose of the Windsor Hotel, 
 New York. 
 
 The music-room adjoins the parlor, and is only sep- 
 arated from it by a pair of portieres. It is circular, 
 with a frescoed dome. It is only twenty-four feet in di- 
 ameter ; but a veritable bijou is this music-room. It 
 has tables and a cabinet of onyx, pieces of statuary and 
 bronze, two piano lamps and a pedestal upon which 
 stands a vase decorated with scenes painted by a French 
 artist. The vase itself is three feet high. There are 
 two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room cur- 
 tained in front. Occasionally these recesses are put to a 
 very good use. I have seen young couples, a modern 
 Claude and Pauline, engaged in very close conversation 
 behind the curtains, whispering " soft nothings " to each 
 other. " Soft " without doubt were the words spoken, 
 and, so far as I heard, they amounted to nothing. 
 
 In the central front wall of this room there is a win- 
 dow, and pendant in this window is a colored lamp in 
 which electric light is continually burning. There are 
 similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy recesses the 
 scene, with its Moorish surroundings, reminding you of 
 an Oriental synagogue, in which there is a similar lamp, 
 and in which, according to Jewish custom in public 
 places of worship, the light is never allowed to go out. 
 Of electric lamps, there are twenty-five hundred in the 
 house.
 
 THE CALIFORNIA, 261 
 
 There is a ladies' waiting-room which is strictly re- 
 served for ladies ; there is a ladies' billiard-room, as 
 well as one for gentlemen ; there is a banqueting-room 
 for public dinners at the top of the house, and at the 
 bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a 
 stock of choice wines valued at twenty thousand dol- 
 lars. 
 
 The European plan is gaining in popularity in this 
 country. When you proceed to write your name on 
 the register at the Palace Hotel the clerk asks, "Euro- 
 pean or American plan ? " At the California no such 
 question is propounded ; it is kept entirely on the 
 European plan. 
 
 But they have a restaurant which is a feature, if not 
 the feature of the house. It measures 1 20 x 30 feet, it 
 has tiled floor, mirrored walls, beautifully decorated 
 ceilings and countless electric lamps. During the din- 
 ner hour a band, stationed in a half-hidden gallery at 
 the end of the restaurant, performs music that is prop- 
 erly called pleasing light selections which suggest 
 good cheer, and which no doubt aid digestion. The 
 restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the 
 interior, and such is its popularity that it is patronized 
 by many people who are not otherwise guests of the 
 house. 
 
 It is equal in style of service to any cafe I know of 
 to the Cafe Savarin or the Brunswick in New York ; in 
 fact, the manager, A. F. Kinzler, is a son of Francis 
 Kinzler of the Brunswick. 
 
 The question of moustached waiters was easily set- 
 tled at the California. They are skilled and experienced 
 
 French and Swiss waiters, and there was no demur to 
 
 
 
 the order, shave the upper lip.
 
 SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 On the last Sunday of September 1890, 1 was one among 
 the five thousand people wh$ enjoyed the masterly elo- 
 quence of Spurgeon at his Tabernacle in London ; to- 
 day, Monday, I was in the Mormon Tabernacle, where a 
 conference was being held, and in which were gathered 
 as many people as the great building would hold, 
 seated and standing, twelve thousand. 
 
 Several Mormon elders held forth, but what they said 
 did not particularly interest me. It was, for the most 
 part, a defense of their form of "religion," and they 
 claimed they had a right, in this free country, to teach 
 and practice their peculiar doctrine. 
 
 The acoustic properties of this great edifice are excel- 
 lent ; I tested them in different parts of the house, and 
 heard almost every word that was said by the several 
 speakers. Each spoke but for a short time, ten or fif- 
 teen minutes. 
 
 The most interesting part of Monday's "session" to 
 my mind was the musical part, a chorus of two hundred 
 and fifty male and female voices singing to the rich and 
 powerful tones of what is claimed to be the largest organ 
 but one in the world. 
 
 A strange feature of the assemblage was the great 
 number of young children and babes in arms ; the crowd 
 of baby carriages in the halls and entrances being very 
 noticeable. 
 
 The exterior of the Tabernacle, from its oval shape, 
 is often likened to half an egg bisected lengthwise ; 
 
 262
 
 SALT LAKE CITY. 263 
 
 to me it looks like a tortoise, with its low curved 
 roof and its remarkably short pillars, only a few feet 
 apart. 
 
 But it is a mammoth tortoise, 250 x 150 feet, with not a 
 column nor a pillar to obstruct the view the largest span 
 of unsupported wooden roof in the world. 
 
 The Temple in Salt Lake City, the corner-stone of 
 which was laid on the twelfth of April, 1853, is, like 
 the municipal buildings in Philadelphia, the City Hall 
 in San Francisco and the Cathedral in Cologne, still 
 unfinished, although $3,500,000 has been expended in 
 its construction so far. The Temple's dimensions are 
 200 x 100 feet. 
 
 It is built entirely of granite. The towers are beau- 
 tiful. When completed they will be 200 feet high. 
 A marble slab 12x3 feet is inserted in the centre 
 tower. Upon that slab appears this inscription in gold 
 letters: 
 
 " Holiness to the Lord, the house of the Lord. Built 
 by the Church of Jesus Christ, of latter-day saints. 
 Commenced April 6, 1853. Completed" space is left 
 under the word "completed" in which to insert the 
 date, but that space may not be filled during the next 
 quarter of a century. 
 
 The first blocks of granite for the building were 
 hauled from the quarries, a distance of twenty miles, 
 by oxen, but for many years past the granite has been 
 brought to the city by a railroad planned originally by 
 Mormons. 
 
 Salt Lake, on account of its unpaved streets, must be 
 miserable as a place of residence. In wet weather the 
 mud in the streets is from six inches to two feet deep, 
 and in dry weather the dust is intolerable. It is probably 
 not quite so bad in these respects as Key West, Florida, 
 but it is always disagreeable enough. Yet the city is 
 well laid out ; all the streets are over one hundred feet 
 wide ; there is a good system of electric street-cars, and
 
 264 SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 there are many fine granite and brick business blocks. 
 Salt Lake has an evident air of prosperity. Its popula- 
 tion has more than doubled in the past ten years. In 
 1880 it was 20,000 ; in 1890 45,000. 
 
 Brigham street, the Fifth avenue of Salt Lake, con- 
 tains not a few private residences of which any city 
 might be proud. 
 
 The leading hotel is "The Templeton," owned by a 
 company of which D. C. Young is president. The man- 
 ager of the hotel is Alonzo Young. The president and 
 the manager are both sons o^ Brigham Young, but are 
 half brothers only. Brigham sleeps with a couple of 
 his wives in a cemetery a few hundred feet from the 
 hotel. 
 
 The Templeton is new and substantial, but it was not 
 erected for a hotel, and it lacks some conveniences which 
 you expect to find. It is better adapted for an office 
 building, which was its original purpose. 
 
 The dining-room is on the top floor, as is the dining- 
 room of the Auditorium in Chicago, and the Vendome 
 in New York, and as is the kitchen of the Windsor Hotel 
 in London. 
 
 From this room in the Templeton, if you secure a 
 choice seat, you get most magnificent views. You are 
 surrounded by snow-covered mountains, and to the west 
 you see the principal buildings of the city the Mormon 
 Tabernacle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall, all en- 
 closed and fenced within a ten-acre lot. 
 
 We were unfortunate in the time of our visit to Salt 
 Lake. The city was crowded on account of the Mormon 
 conference and all the hotels were full. At the Temple- 
 ton they had an insufficient number of waiters and they 
 served saucers of ice cream on warm plates. 
 
 I had occasion to look at the city directory of Salt 
 Lake and in turning over the leaves I noticed that there 
 are living no less than nine widows of the lamented 
 apostle of Mormonism, Brigham Young.
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 SARATOGA is lavishly endowed by nature with all the at- 
 tributes of a popular resort. Situated at a high altitude, 
 among the foot-hills of the Adirondacks, its climate is de- 
 lightful, the air pure, dry, and bracing, the evening deli- 
 ciously cdol, even in the dog-days. A beautiful, rolling 
 country, charmingly diversified by hills, valleys, and streams, 
 stretches for miles on every side, affording delightful walks 
 and drives ; its mineral springs possess wonderful curative 
 powers. A prominent physician once told me that he se- 
 cured more real substantial benefit from one week in Sara- 
 toga than from a month's stay at any other resort, and there 
 are hundreds of others ready to endorse this opinion. 
 
 It has been said that nature is responsible for only one- 
 half the beauties of Saratoga, the rest being due to man's 
 agency ; and this is undoubtedly true. Art has taken hold 
 of nature's raw material and transformed it into a veritable 
 paradise. Its boulevards and parks are the delight of all 
 visitors ; its hotels rank among the largest and best in the 
 world. Saratoga has become within a few years the great 
 summer capital of America. It is the centre each season of 
 the highest social, educational, and political gatherings. 
 The broad piazzas of its vast hotels present a panorama of 
 the best and most varied types of our leisurely classes, re- 
 inforced by thousands of the affluent citizens of other lands. 
 The season reaches its height during the race meeting, 
 which usually opens the latter part of July, and continues 
 through August. During that time the capacity of the ho- 
 tels is taxed to the utmost, and the streets and avenues are 
 filled with gay throngs of pedestrians, and an apparently 
 
 265
 
 266 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 endless procession of handsome equipages, presenting a 
 brilliant spectacle. 
 
 But Saratoga is not given up altogether to people of fash- 
 ion. It is also the resort of a very large number of people 
 in moderate circumstances, and for them it offers a wide 
 range of accommodations. Boarders are received in scores 
 of private families at reasonable prices, and it is not at all 
 necessary to go to a hotel, unless you prefer hotel life. Ex- 
 cellent accommodations are obtainable at from seven to 
 twelve dollars a week. Saratoga also enjoys the advantage 
 of an unsurpassed railroad ser\?lce. During the season the 
 New York Central runs nine fast trains at convenient hours, 
 daily, each way, between Saratoga and New York, and every 
 Saturday afternoon a special limited train takes visitors to 
 Saratoga to spend Sunday, returning to New York at an early 
 hour Monday morning. All these trains are run on a fast 
 schedule, and they are equipped with Wagner drawing-room, 
 buffet, and smoking cars of the latest and most luxurious 
 pattern. Saratoga is also reached promptly and conveni- 
 ently from the West by the same railroad line (New York 
 Central) with its many daily fast express trains, via Buffalo, 
 Niagara Falls, and Rochester, by direct connections at 
 Schenectady and Albany. 
 
 Notwithstanding the many new attractions in the many 
 new places of resort, Saratoga Springs, without " booming " 
 by the railway people, without large advertising or special 
 effort by the hotel-keepers, holds its own not only as " the 
 Queen of American Spas," but undoubtedly as the most pop- 
 ular sjummer resort in America, as it has been for a century, 
 more or less. 
 
 As to the famous hotels of Saratoga, it may be of interest 
 to say that the " Union," as it was then called, was opened 
 in the year 1800, "Congress Hall" in 1812, the first 
 "States" in 1824. 
 
 The old " States" was built and kept by Judge Marvin, 
 who died in 1852. Let me hasten to say that I had not the 
 honor of his personal acquaintance, but I have met his
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 267 
 
 brother, the Hon. James M. Marvin, who was his partner 
 and who still owns an interest in the property. He has 
 reached the ripe age of eighty-three, and is still hale and 
 hearty. 
 
 Here is some more history, ancient, if not interesting. 
 The old house was destroyed by fire in 1865, the present 
 large and fine structure was built in 1873 and opened in the 
 following year. The firm of Ainsworth, Tompkins & Perry 
 built this house, and they kept it. Ainsworth is dead ; Tomp- 
 kins and Perry are very much alive, the firm of proprietors 
 to-day being Tompkins, Gage & Perry Hiram Tompkins, 
 William B. Gage, and Dr. J. L. Perry. And here are a 
 couple of personal items Mr. Gage, of the present firm, 
 married a daughter of the Hon. James M. Marvin, and Dr. 
 Perry, aforesaid, wedded a daughter of Judge Marvin, so the 
 " proprietorship," as it is called, and the ownership also, if 
 not somewhat mixed, are both in the family. The father of 
 the present Dr. Perry was a physician before him, practis- 
 ing in what was then the village of Saratoga. 
 
 I have for years called " the States" " the model hotel of 
 the world," and this opinion is shared by many experienced 
 hotel men, among them no less a celebrity in the business 
 than James H. Breslin. 
 
 There are many works of art in the broad halls, in the 
 magnificent writing-room where men congregate, and in the 
 cosey sitting-rooms set apart more especially for the softer 
 sex. The collection is large and valuable. 
 
 American hotels may be methodical, but their methods as 
 a rule are superior to those of the European houses. In the 
 elevator I was ascending late, one night, and I complained 
 of the slow rate at which the car was rising. "Its pace," I 
 remarked to the man in the lift, " reminds me of the lift at 
 Charing Cross Hotel," and I got this explanation : " After 
 half-past ten at night, sir, our orders are to go at half-speed; 
 full speed might disturb the early sleepers." This of itself 
 gives some idea of the careful way in which " the States " 
 is managed.
 
 LAKE IN THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 THE Adirondack Mountains occupy an area of about one 
 hundred square miles in the north-eastern part of New York 
 State, lying in the counties of Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, 
 St. Lawrence, Franklin, Clinton, Essex, and Warren. Over 
 the greater part of this extensive tract stretch magnificent 
 forests of pine, spruce, fir, and hemlock, many of whose re- 
 cesses have never been trodden by mortal foot. 
 
 In the cool depths of these forests, and in the valleys be- 
 tween the mountains, are hundreds of beautiful lakes, vary- 
 ing considerably in size, many of them connected by tiny 
 streams just wide enough to permit the passage of a small 
 boat links in the grand system of carries and portages by 
 which this entire region is traversed with unerring step by 
 the experienced woodsman. 
 
 Their waters of crystal purity teem with all manner of 
 268
 
 ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 269 
 
 gamy fish, brook- and salmon-trout, pickerel, pike, and 
 that chief delight of anglers, the black bass. Deer, moose, 
 otter, beaver, and all kinds of small game are abundant, 
 and by a wise provision of legislation, limiting the quantity 
 of game to be taken out of the woods by sportsmen, the 
 supply is in no danger of being exhausted. 
 
 Although within a comparatively short distance of New 
 York and Brooklyn, until recently the charms of the Adi- 
 rondacks were familiar only to a few ardent sportsmen, who 
 went there year after year for trout and venison, and who, 
 knowing they had " a good thing," kept very quiet about it. 
 But gradually people began to find out what there was away 
 up there in the mountains, and the masses learned to love 
 the cool forests, the sparkling brooks, and grand lakes, so 
 that to-day the region has truly become " The Nation's 
 Pleasure Ground and Sanitarium." Hotels have sprung up 
 in all directions, and the accommodations and rates for en- 
 tertainment are sufficiently varied to suit all tastes and all 
 pocket-books. 
 
 The railroads, of course, especially the New York Cen- 
 tral, have been the prime factors in this development, and 
 now, with the completion of Dr. Webb's road, the new Adi- 
 rondack & St. Lawrence Line, extending for nearly two hun- 
 dred miles through the very heart of the wilderness, every 
 resort or camping-place of consequence is rendered easily 
 accessible. 
 
 There are many gateways or entrances to the North Woods, 
 and it would take a good sized volume to describe them all 
 in detail, but the principle ones are, viz. : 
 
 Via Herkimer and the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Line 
 to Fulton Chain, Raquette Lakes, Paul Smith's, Saranac 
 and Tupper Lakes. 
 
 Via Saratoga and the Adirondack Railroad to Luzerne and 
 North Creek.' 
 
 Via Lake Champlain and Westport to Au Sable Chasm, 
 Elizabeth town, and Keene Valley. 
 
 The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is, of
 
 270 ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 course, the initial line ; all routes to the Adirondacks lead 
 over it. The average cost of an excursion ticket to the dif- 
 ferent prominent resorts is from $10.00 to $15.00. Warm 
 clothing should be taken, but as little of it as possible, es- 
 pecially if you contemplate camping out. Wear good, stout, 
 broad-soled shoes, not boots, and do not have hob-nails in 
 them, as they ruin a boat. For fishing it will be necessary 
 to have a strong fly rod, say eight ounces, about ten or ten 
 and a half feet long, with plain click reel, filled with thirty- 
 five or forty yards of water-proof silk line ; half a dozen stout 
 leaders, and two or three doz^n flies on No. 6 or 8 sproat. 
 Take bait hooks, and a few gangs for lake trout trolling. 
 
 Thus equipped, enter the woods, leaving behind all 
 thoughts of shop or office, all considerations of the hum- 
 drum affairs of ordinary, every-day life, and give yourself 
 unreservedly to the delights of fishing and exploring. My 
 word for it, you will emerge at the end of your vacation with 
 improved lungs, improved health generally, and a fresh 
 stock of energy.
 
 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 THE very name, Thousand Islands, conjures up visions of 
 romantic novelty and loveliness, and this is one of the very 
 few instances where " fancy does not beggar facts and 
 throw over them the rags of disappointment." 
 
 The name is in some respects a misnomer, for there are 
 nearly two thousand of these islands altogether, ranging in 
 size from a surface a few yards in extent to an area of sev- 
 eral acres. 
 
 They are scattered in profusion for a distance of forty 
 miles, between Cape Vincent and Morristown. As a sum- 
 mer resort, the region of the St. Lawrence is rapidly assum- 
 ing that distinction in popular estimation to which superior 
 advantages justly entitle it. The climate is dry, cool, and 
 refreshing, the surroundings picturesque, the facilities for 
 boating unexcelled ; while to the enthusiastic fisherman it 
 is a veritable Paradise, where bass and pickerel and the 
 mighty muskallonge roam in countless numbers. 
 
 The usual mode of travelling here is, of course, by boat ; 
 consequently a good deal of attention has been paid to 
 model and build, and the St. Lawrence skiffs have become 
 world-renowned. Boat-building on the river has become an 
 established industry, forming the principal winter occupa- 
 tion of most of the guides. As the materials cost them lit- 
 tle and the boats command good prices, they make a hand- 
 some profit on every sale. 
 
 The more luxurious of th^se boats are carpeted, have 
 nickel and brass fittings, and are polished like a piano. 
 They are beautiful to the eye and lack nothing in comfort- 
 able appointments. 
 
 The St. Lawrence guides are not only expert sailors, but 
 271
 
 272 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 good cooks as well, and it is astonishing what an excellent 
 meal they will get up with the limited means at command. 
 In fact, I think an island dinner is one of the most enjoyable 
 features of a trip to the St. Lawrence. 
 
 The principal points of resort among the islands are Clay- 
 ton, the railroad terminus ; Round Island, the site of the 
 Frontenac Hotel ; Thousand Island Park, the extensive 
 camp-meeting resort of the Methodists ; Central Park (Cot- 
 tage Hotel) and Alexandria Bay, where are located the 
 famous Crossmon House and the Thousand Island House. 
 Alexandria Bay, from its central position in the very heart 
 of the Thousand Island region, and from the vast improve- 
 ments that have sprung up as if by magic within the past 
 five years, both on the islands and in the mainland, has 
 achieved a wide reputation. 
 
 The Thousand Islands probably enjoys the best train ser- 
 vice of any resort of equal prominence in the world. Dur- 
 ing the season the New York Central runs several through 
 fast trains daily between New York and Clayton, and last 
 year a special car was attached to its lightning Empire 
 State Express for the accommodation of travellers over this 
 route.
 
 NIAGARA FALLS FROM PROSPECT POINT,
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 A FAMOUS writer has said, " No place in the civilized 
 world offers such attractions as Niagara, and yet they can 
 never be fully known except to those who see them, from 
 the utter impossibility of describing such scenes. When 
 motion can be expressed by color, then, and only then, can 
 Niagara be described." 
 
 My first visit to Niagara was made in my teens, when, I 
 do not hesitate now to admit, I could not appreciate its 
 wondrous beauty. I saw nothing but a great lot of water 
 rushing madly over the precipice, and, like the Irishman, I 
 said to myself, ' ' What's to hinder it ? " But I have been 
 there many times since, and each visit has only increased 
 my sense of the surpassing grandeur and majesty of the 
 scene. 
 
 The great features of Niagara you will find ever the same, 
 but their individual expression is constantly changing. 
 With every season, with every sunbeam or passing cloud, 
 they assume a different appearance, and evoke new admira- 
 tion. 
 
 T-he great cataract, supposed by many to be the single 
 absorbing feature of Niagara, is really only one of a multi- 
 tude of attractions. "It's tossing rapids, its milk-white 
 waves, its rainbow-tinted spray in the opal light of morning, 
 the crimson and gold of the sunset and under the mysteri- 
 ous glamour of the moon," possess for me equal powers of 
 fascination. 
 
 When Father Hennepin first saw Niagara Falls, he dis- 
 covered the greatest natural wonder in the world, and those 
 early pioneers who started a settlement here in the faith 
 that this spot was susceptible of expansion into prominence 
 
 273
 
 274 NIAGARA FALLS^ 
 
 and popularity as a resort for tourists, displayed no aston- 
 ishing foresight, but simply exercised the most ordinary 
 faculty of common sense ; for how could so healthful and 
 beautiful a place, encompassing within its borders the most 
 sublime masterpiece of the Creator's handiwork, lack appre- 
 ciation. 
 
 The village of Niagara is most charming in many ways 
 and undoubtedly healthful. The air is invigorating ; the 
 atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water 
 and the spray, is kept pure and fresh ; good roads extend 
 in every direction, and hotel accommodations are ample and 
 excellent. In order to "do the Falls" thoroughly, you 
 should stay here at least a week, although perseverance and 
 a stout pair of legs can get over a good deal of the ground 
 in less time. The chief points of interest, aside from the 
 Falls themselves, are Luna and Goat Islands, the Three 
 Sister Islands, the Rapids, the Whirlpool, and the Cave of 
 the Winds. The last named is an opening directly behind 
 the great American Fall. The cave is one hundred and fifty 
 feet wide, one hundred feet high, and is approached by a lit- 
 tle bridge, two feet wide, over which the visitor must pass. 
 This is a little terrifying at first, but the guide is very posi- 
 tive in his assurances that this seemingly frail structure is 
 perfectly safe, being supported by strong stays firmly im- 
 bedded in the rocks on which it is built. So fascinating is 
 this trip, that a visit to Niagara is incomplete without it. 
 
 There is also the run down to Lewiston on one of the ob- 
 servation trains of the New York Central a trip of seven 
 miles along shelving rock, overlooking the wonderful gorge 
 through which the Niagara pushes its way onward to Lake 
 Ontario, the foaming Rapids and the angry Whirlpool. Prob- 
 ably no trip in the world of equal length compares with this 
 for grandeur of scenery. Arrived at Lewiston, you may, if 
 you please, continue your trip across the lake to Toronto, a 
 splendid line of twin-screw Clyde-built steamers plying be- 
 tween the two points.
 
 ATLANTIC CITY. 
 
 No foreigner should visit these shores without spending 
 at least a day or two at some of our typical summer or 
 winter resorts, in season. He will find their characteristics 
 totally different to any in his own land, and he may be able 
 to gain by contact with the people whom he may meet at 
 these resorts, an idea of our social peculiarities. Atlantic 
 City is a typical American summer resort, and incidentally 
 its peculiar advantages as to climate and soil have given 
 it fame as a late winter and early spring retreat. It is 
 not like Brighton, Margate, Bournemouth, Torquay, Trou- 
 ville, Scheveningen, nor any other foreign seaside resort, but 
 it has a combination of advantages peculiar to itself. At- 
 lantic City is on the New Jersey coast, one hundred miles dis- 
 tant from New York, and is reached in ninety minutes from 
 Philadelphia. It is a city in reality as well as in name, 
 built on an island ten miles long, and surrounded by the 
 ocean thus isolated, as by quarantine, from the approach 
 of diseases that are bred from germs and microbes. This, 
 together with the dryness of the soil and the excellent 
 hygienic regulations, preserves Atlantic City from malaria 
 and makes it a haven of rest or recreation. 
 
 How do visitors spend their time ? Much as they please, 
 for the " City by the Sea " offers an embarrassment of sum- 
 mer pastimes and pleasures. Bathing, perhaps, is the chief 
 recreation. The beach for bathing is unsurpassed, being 
 not inferior to Pablo Beach, near Jacksonville, Florida. 
 The sea offers other pleasures. Fleets of sail-boats, 
 manned by " sea dogs," take you for a sail on the smooth 
 waters of the inlet or outside upon the open sea. All boats 
 are provided with fishing tackle ; famous fishing-grounds 
 
 275
 
 276 ATLANTIC CITY. 
 
 are near by, and the veriest tyro in the gentle art may 
 quickly fill his basket. When the day is done, the great 
 hotels are ablaze with lights and brilliant with the evening 
 costumes of the fair guests. All the chief hotels provide 
 good orchestral music, and, under the stimulation of the 
 invigorating atmosphere of the place, the dance is entered 
 upon with zest. 
 
 An attractive feature of Atlantic City is the " board 
 walk," twenty-four feet wide, extending along the edge 
 of the sea for four miles. This is the popular promenade 
 by day or night. The drive$ are good, either along the 
 smooth, hard sands, or through the broad streets of the 
 city, or among the pines of the mainland. The climate 
 and temperature, both in spring and summer, are delightful 
 and equable. The water, introduced from fresh springs of 
 the mainland as well as from Artesian wells, is abundant 
 and pure. The social attractions of Atlantic City add to 
 the charm of the place at all seasons. In the spring and 
 early summer, representatives of the best society of New 
 York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Chicago, and 
 other cities east and west, may be found in the large 
 hotels, and many of the habitues have handsome cottages 
 of their own. The individual attractions of the large 
 number of excellent hotels at Atlantic City are fully 
 enumerated in the summer resort guide, near the end of 
 this volume. Nowhere, for first-class accommodations, are 
 hotel rates so moderate as in Atlantic City, except possibly 
 in Southern California. A few houses may be instanced : 
 The Brighton, the Traymore, Haddon Hall, the Shelburne, 
 and the Dennis. These hotels, by the way, are open the year 
 round. The proprietors of the Hotel Brighton have recently 
 completed the Brighton "Casino, "on the Brighton lawns, 
 facing the ocean. It is a handsome three-story building 
 of picturesque architectural design. It contains luxuriously 
 appointed sun parlors, reading and smoking rooms, a hand- 
 some concert and ball room, hot and cold sea-baths, a 
 swimming pool of white marble, bowling alley, and other
 
 ATLANTIC CITY. 277 
 
 attractive features. The cost is $60,000, and it will be one 
 of the most beautiful structures on the coast. 
 
 Fortunately for the convenience and comfort of its 
 habitues and visitors, Atlantic City is located on one of 
 the branch lines of the Pennsylvania Railroad. In fact, 
 there are two distinct lines operated by the Pennsylvania 
 Railroad from Philadelphia to Atlantic City. These roads 
 are built and maintained in that excellent condition which 
 characterizes all the lines of this great corporation. They 
 are so operated, as regards express trains, as to secure the 
 advantages of a double-tracked line, and, with the frequent 
 fast trains which ply between the Quaker City and its sea- 
 side suburb, this arrangement makes transportation not 
 only prompt and easy, but perfectly safe. With all the 
 principal trains from west and south, regular connection 
 is made at Philadelphia for Atlantic City. The through 
 car arrangements of the Pennsylvania Railroad are so 
 comprehensive, that one can travel from the most distant 
 points to Atlantic City with but one change of cars. From 
 New England and points north and west of New York City, 
 the facilities are equally good. The fast express from New 
 York, established several years ago, runs direct, without 
 change, from Jersey City to Atlantic City in three and one- 
 half hours. It leaves New York in the early afternoon, 
 after the trains from the north, east, and west have all 
 arrived, and it reaches Atlantic City in ample time for 
 dinner or tea. This train is made up of Pullman buffet, 
 parlor cars, and passenger coaches. A similar train leaves 
 Atlantic City in the morning, and arrives in New York be- 
 fore luncheon.
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 
 
 CHICAGO is best reached from New York by the Pennsyl- 
 vania Railroad or the New York Central and Hudson 
 River Railroad. Both are popular routes and both com- 
 panies run frequent fast traii^. The service of trains on 
 each line includes a "limited," composed entirely of ves- 
 tibuled cars, embodying the luxuries and appointments 
 of a first-class hotel. These trains make the journey in 
 twenty-four hours ; the regular trains take about six hours 
 longer. The fare by both roads is the same. Choice of 
 route must depend largely upon fancy. The Pennsylvania 
 road passes around Horse Shoe Bend, a picturesque wonder 
 of Allegheny mountain scenery ; the New York Central 
 route takes the passenger within view of Niagara Falls. 
 The Erie road also runs trains to Chicago, not so frequently 
 nor perhaps at such great speed, but the fare-is a trifle less. 
 
 Chicago is a few miles less than a thousand from New 
 York by rail. It is on the south-western shore of Lake 
 Michigan, and lies on its curving banks, along which it 
 extends for about twenty miles. It is not a particularly 
 attractive city, because of the appreciable gloom cast by the 
 smoke from the factories in the suburbs. From this smoke 
 small particles of carbon " smuts" fall continually in an 
 invisible shower, sifting through the window crevices and 
 soiling furniture, carpets, clothing, and person. The city 
 has some magnificent buildings and some remarkably tall 
 ones, and many fine thoroughfares. The characteristic of 
 the people is activity. In Western parlance they are 
 " hustlers." 
 
 The Chicago River, which is formed by the confluence 
 of two branches, one flowing from the north-west, the other 
 
 278
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 279 
 
 from the south, runs, after the junction of these branches, 
 through the city eastward for about half a mile to the lake. 
 These streams are spanned by more than fifty swinging 
 bridges, and are tunnelled for the passage of cable cars and 
 traffic. The "west," the "north side," and the "south 
 side " are terms used in locating streets or houses, and they 
 refer to directions from this stream. 
 
 The World's Fair grounds are on the lake shore, about 
 five miles southward from the heart of the city. They are 
 easily accessible by the Illinois Central Railroad which has 
 a convenient terminus and frequent way-stations ; by the 
 elevated railroad, which terminates at Congress Street, a step 
 from the Auditorium Hotel ; and by the Wabash and 
 Cottage Grove cable cars the latter route, which is the 
 longest, not occupying over half an hour, say, from the 
 Post Office. The Fair will open on May ist, and remain 
 open until the last of October. Its magnitude and beauty 
 must be seen to be properly conceived. 
 
 By the Pennsylvania road you will arrive at the Union 
 Depot, Adams Street ; via the New York Central you will 
 arrive at the Michigan Central Depot at Twelfth Street, or 
 at the Lake Shore Depot, Van Buren Street. These depots 
 are ten minutes or less from the busiest part of the city, and 
 they are within easy walking distance of the chief hotels. 
 Reliable transfer companies will convey you and your bag- 
 gage to any hotel at a fixed charge. Hackmen and cabmen, 
 as usual,, will charge what they can get, although the legal 
 rate for cabs is twenty-five cents per mile. 
 
 Michigan Avenue Boulevard is the finest thoroughfare. 
 No car tracks nor heavy traffic are permitted. It begins on 
 the lake front and runs along its border until the shore 
 curves away. At the lower end are substantial business 
 structures and some fine hotels, notably the Auditorium just 
 above Van Buren Street, at which street is a station of the 
 Illinois Central Railroad, whence the guest of the hotels of 
 the " down-town" district would start for the Fair. "Down- 
 town " in Chicago is the business portion of the city,
 
 280 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 
 
 containing some of the chief hotels, the Post Office, banks, 
 clubs, theatres, and large retail shops. Chicago streets are 
 laid for the most part at right angles and offer no labyrin- 
 thine problems. Next parallel to Michigan Avenue is State 
 Street, then Wabash Avenue, Dearborn and Clark, all broad 
 and busy streets, traversed by cable cars which run rapidly. 
 
 The purpose of this chapter is to offer suggestions to the 
 stranger which will guide if not direct him in the choice of 
 an abiding place during his stay in the " Windy City." 
 The hotels mentioned here, it may be safely said, represent 
 each the best of its kind. Itjis to be noted of them, in 
 general, that they all have the modern improvements unless 
 otherwise stated electric lights, hot and cold running water, 
 excellent ventilation, and praiseworthy sanitation of plumb- 
 ing, as well as good domestic service. Those hotels only 
 have been selected which may be commended : hotels to be 
 avoided in Chicago, as elsewhere, are too numerous to men- 
 tion. Chicago hotel rates are not high, but the visitor 
 must expect to pay more during the continuance of the 
 Fair. Where possible, rates for the Fair period have been 
 obtained. It is safe to say that the hotels enumerated here, 
 being first-class houses, will not fleece the visitor. I am 
 credibly informed that so far as possible regular rates will 
 be adhered to. At all events, applications and agreements 
 as to rates may be made in advance. 
 
 The " down-town " hotels, to be mentioned in detail fur- 
 ther on, are the Auditorium, Palmer House, Richelieu, Vic- 
 toria, Wellington, and Great Northern all within ten 
 minutes' walk of each other, and therefore all having about 
 the same advantages of location. They receive a large share 
 of patronage from commercial travellers. This district cor- 
 responds to Fourteenth Street, Twenty-third Street, and 
 Forty-second Street, of New York. Another group of hotels 
 is composed of the Virginia, the Lakota, the Metropole, and 
 the Lexington, located in quiet and fashionable residential 
 portions of the city. They compare in character with the 
 Windsor, Brunswick, Plaza, and Logerot hotels of New York,
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 281 
 
 and not one of them is more than fifteen minutes from the 
 Post Office and Board of Trade, theatres, etc. 
 
 The third group of hotels that call for consideration are at 
 or near the Fair grounds. Among the best of them is the 
 Chicago Beach, the Renfost, and the Hyde Park. They are 
 not the World's Fair hotels which have become notorious 
 for their flimsy construction. They are some distance from 
 down-town, but right in the line of growth of the choice resi- 
 dence streets. By heeding the above suggestions, it is be- 
 lieved that the visitor will be able to decide whither to direct 
 his steps to procure " bed and board," without a shade of 
 regret that he did not go " somewhere else." Finally, it is 
 suggested to procure a guide to Chicago containing a good 
 map; Rand, McNally & Co.'s "Handy Guide" may be 
 recommended. 
 
 THE LAKOTA. If you are used to the luxuries and refine- 
 ments of life, you will miss them at many of the hotels at 
 which you are obliged to put up. With this expectation, 
 you will be agreeably surprised if you should happen to 
 select the Lakota. Chicago's newest select hotel. It is on 
 Michigan Avenue Boulevard, the pride of Chicago streets, 
 through which no trucks are allowed to pass, and no car- 
 tracks are laid. It stands at the corner of Thirtieth Street ; 
 the elevated railroad station is at Thirty-first Street, and 
 almost within hail are the cable cars, bringing the life of 
 the city, its shops, banks, theatres, and clubs, within fifteen 
 minutes' ride. In respect of location, the Lakota does not 
 yield to any hotel in the city. The locality is ultra-fashion- 
 able, this portion of the boulevard containing the luxurious 
 homes of Chicago's famous multi-millionnaires. The Lakota 
 was only recently opened, but it was two years a-building 
 It is constructed of steel and stone, absolutely fire-proof, and 
 architecturally a credit to the city. It embodies the latest 
 achievements and luxuries that the age offers to travellers. 
 The Lakota is ten stories high and has three hundred rooms, 
 the largest hotel apartments in Chicago, suitably arranged
 
 282 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 
 
 for rental en suite or singly. The building is so constructed 
 that each room, and even every bath-room, opens on the 
 street. In furnishing and decoration the Lakota is in per- 
 fect harmony with the aristocratic homes that surround it. 
 The main floor is finished in pure marble, massive and beau- 
 tifully carved, and the apartments are finished in five different 
 kinds of cabinet woods, not varnished, but piano-polished. 
 Among the notable features of this hotel are its cuisine and 
 its service a " club " service. The kitchen itself would 
 commend the Lakota to the favor of fastidious people. All 
 in all, this hotel will easily aake rank with the Windsor 
 Hotel, New York, which should be considered a high com- 
 pliment. The carpets are Bigelow Wiltons, from Sloane's ; 
 the wall papers are rich and harmonious, to which the furni- 
 ture corresponds ; Gorham silverware and Haviland china 
 are used ; the linen was woven to order in France. Not- 
 withstanding this luxury, the rates are moderate : American 
 plan, from $5 per day ; European plan, rooms from $2 per 
 day ; meals in the restaurant, a la carte, or at $17.50 by the 
 week. The manager, Mr. James R. Keenan, formerly man- 
 aged the Shoreham, in Washington, whose patronage was 
 drawn from the aristocratic foreign residents of that city and 
 from the best society in New York and other cities. 
 
 THE VIRGINIA. Also removed from the noise and bustle 
 of the business part of the city, and in a district of private 
 residences, but still within ten minutes' ride of the centres. 
 It was erected and is owned by Leander J. McCormick, a 
 wealthy Chicagoan, who destined it for a fashionable apart- 
 ment house, which idea the location would have warranted, 
 but it was opened in 1891 as a hotel instead. The Virginia 
 is at Rush and Ohio Streets, across the river, but readily ac- 
 cessible to the Fair or to the Post Office. The building is 
 ten stories high, absolutely fire-proof, and admirably con- 
 structed for disposition into suites or single rooms. The 
 Virginia is conducted solely upon the American plan ; rates
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 283 
 
 from $4 per day. It has few transient patrons ; most of its 
 guests are habitues, refined people of means. The Virginia 
 is luxuriously appointed, and is embellished with many val- 
 uable works of art. The cuisine is a feature. It has other 
 features not found at all hotels, in its manner of caring for 
 the petty comforts of guests. Address, Virginia Hotel Co., 
 J. P. Whedon, manager. 
 
 THE AUDITORIUM. The largest hotel in Chicago, and 
 one of the famous hotels of the country. The title embraces 
 really two hotels under one management. The first is the 
 original structure known under that name, an absolutely 
 fire-proof building covering one and a half acres, standing on 
 Michigan Avenue, Wabash Avenue, and Congress Street, 
 facing the lake. The other building was recently completed, 
 and is on the opposite corner of Michigan Avenue. It is of 
 similar architecture, and they are nearly of a size. A tunnel 
 connects them. The older house is conducted on the Euro- 
 pean plan, $2 to $5 per day ; the newer on the American 
 plan. In both together there are nearly one thousand 
 rooms. The dining-room of the main house, on the tenth 
 floor, affords extended views of the lake and a stretch of 
 Chicago's grand boulevard, Michigan Avenue, as far as the 
 eye can reach. Everything about the Auditorium is on a 
 sumptuous scale, yet the prices are not higher than at other 
 hotels of a corresponding class. The Auditorium is one of 
 the features of Chicago, and it affords Chicagoans a conven- 
 ient " point of departure." The top of the Auditorium tower 
 is two hundred and seventy feet above the lake. The two 
 Auditorium buildings are controlled by separate companies, 
 but the one is largely interested in the other, and Mr. R. 
 H. Southgate manages both houses. 
 
 THE RICHELIEU. The Richelieu is a refined and home- 
 like hotel. It is a novelty in hotels for Chicago, but not for
 
 284 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 
 
 New York, where we have the Sherman Square, the Hotel 
 de Logerot, and other hotels of the class. The Richelieu 
 enjoys the same advantages of location as the Auditorium 
 and the Victoria on Michigan Avenue, fronting the lake. 
 It is conducted entirely upon the European plan, and its 
 cuisine and wines are famous. There are one hundred and 
 thirty-nine rooms, ranging in price from $2 per day to $15 
 for parlor, two bedrooms, and bath. The house is lighted by 
 electricity throughout and has an elevator. The Richelieu 
 is a select house in the full sense of the word, and is 
 especially notable for the courtesy of its proprietor, as well 
 as for the excellence of his table and his wines. 
 
 THE METROPOLE. One of the best hotels in Chicago. 
 It is located on the Michigan Boulevard at Twenty-third 
 Street, among the fashionable private residences ; a step from 
 the elevated railroad station, and one block from the Wabash 
 Avenue cable cars, by which the Fair grounds or the business 
 and shopping centres are easily and quickly reached. It is 
 a large fire-proof building of brown stone, seven stories 
 high, and contains about three hundred rooms. The house 
 is so built, with recessed fagades, that the light of day 
 enters directly every room. The rooms are arranged singly 
 or maybe thrown into suites. The Metropole is conducted 
 upon both the American and European plans ; from $3 per 
 day by the former special rates for a protracted stay. In 
 furnishing, decorations, and appointments, the Metropole is 
 luxurious, tasteful, and artistic. Messrs. Miller & Meserve, 
 managers. 
 
 THE PALMER HOUSE. The Palmer House is one of the 
 best known hotels in the United States, and its reputation 
 is admirably sustained. It corresponds in Chicago to the 
 famous Astor House in New York. It is owned by Potter 
 Palmer, the millionnaire, and it is an object of great pride 
 with him to maintain its high character. The Palmer House
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 285 
 
 occupies the larger part of the block bounded by Wabash 
 Avenue, Monroe Street, Adams Street, and State Street, right 
 in the busy heart of Chicago, convenient and accessible to 
 everywhere. Tourists of the best class, families, and com- 
 mercial travellers, for whom special apartments are set 
 aside, seek the Palmer House. One portion of the house is 
 devoted entirely to families who have lived there for years. 
 The hotel contains seven hundred and fifty rooms. It is 
 conducted upon both the American and European plans ; 
 rates by the former, from $3 per day. Single rooms may be 
 had from $i per day. The rooms are all comfortably, 
 although not luxuriously, furnished. An excellent restaurant, 
 with moderate tariff, is attached to the house. Special 
 announcement is made that rates during the Fair period 
 will not be advanced, but two guests occupying the same 
 room will be expected to pay each the regular price of the 
 room. The stranger may rely upon courteous treatment 
 and consideration. The Palmer House is not modern, but 
 it is provided with all the latest appointments, with the 
 exception of electric lights. There is an air of plainness 
 and honesty about the Palmer House that at once commends 
 it. The walls are hung with some notable paintings. 
 
 THE LEXINGTON HOTEL. On Michigan Boulevard at 
 Twenty-second Street, one block below the Metropole, and 
 having the same accessibility. It was opened in the fall of 
 1892, and it is advertised as being "absolutely fire-proof." 
 It has five hundred rooms, and is conducted upon both the 
 American and European plans, the management having a 
 preference for the former. Rates from $4 per day. For 
 the Fair period higher prices will be charged. The rooms 
 are arranged en suite, forming an apartment with a small 
 private hallway, but they may be rented singly. The 
 Lexington is intended for people of means and good taste. 
 The circular of the hotel speaks of it as " the nearest 
 strictly first-class hotel to the Fair grounds ; " but this is a
 
 286 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 
 
 mistake the Lakota is nearer to the Fair grounds. The 
 lessee of the Lexington, E. A. Bacheldor, is reputed to be 
 rich, and money has not been stinted to make the house 
 desirable for visitors. Restaurant and cafe* are attached to 
 the house. 
 
 THE WELLINGTON is a " down-town " hotel of excellent 
 report, at the corner of Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street, 
 conducted on the European plan, with first-class restaurants 
 attached. Rates from $2 per day. It is an agreeable, quiet 
 house, in the busy district, proprietors, Gage Hotel Co.; 
 Albert S. Gage, president and manager. THE VICTORIA 
 enjoys excellent patronage. It is near the Auditorium, on 
 Michigan Avenue at Van Buren Street. American plan only ; 
 rates from $3 per day. A family hotel, in a choice location. 
 Proprietor, J. M. Lee ; associate and manager, E. A. Whip- 
 pie. THE GREAT NORTHERN FIRE-PROOF HOTEL is op- 
 posite the Post Office, fronting on Dearborn Street. Strictly 
 European plan ; rooms from $3 per day. Its three restau- 
 rants are a feature. A fourteen-story building, modern in 
 all of its appointments and beautiful in many. Caters 
 largely to a business patronage, but has many elaborately 
 furnished suites. Proprietors, Alvin Hulbert and Wm. S. 
 Eden. THE GRAND PACIFIC, on the opposite side of the 
 Post Office, is a house for commercial men and transient 
 guests. American plan only ; from $4 per day. A plain, 
 business-like hotel of large size and good repute. 
 
 NEAR THE FAIR GROUNDS. The remaining hotels to be 
 mentioned here are not " World's Fair hotels," as a class 
 of more or less temporary structures is called, but hotels of 
 the first class, having locations near the Exposition grounds. 
 Members of the celebrated Leland family of hotel-keepers 
 manage some of the best, and that name should be of itself 
 sufficient recommendation. Warren F. Leland, who has had 
 long experience as a hotel proprietor in Chicago, will con-
 
 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 287 
 
 duct the CHICAGO BEACH HOTEL, a new, attractive and 
 substantial brick building, situated directly on the lake 
 shore, at Fifty-first Street Boulevard, a stone's throw from 
 the Illinois Central Railroad. All outside rooms. American 
 and European plans ; by the former, $5 per day and up- 
 ward. THE RENFOST is a beautiful, permanent structure 
 of nearly five hundred rooms, located on Cottage Grove Ave- 
 nue, facing Washington Park. It is conducted by Lewis Le- 
 land, formerly of the Sturtevant House, New York, for a 
 select class of tourists and families. Warren Leland, Jr., of 
 Long Branch fame, and the present popular manager of the 
 Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, Ga., has the INGRAM HOTEL, on 
 Sixtieth Street, facing the entrance to the Fair grounds. It 
 has distinct advantages of location, and many features and 
 appointments desirable in a hotel for tourists and strangers. 
 It is conducted upon the European plan, with the best cui- 
 sine and service attainable. Rates for single rooms, from $2 
 per day ; double rooms, from $3. Charles E. Leland, who 
 for many years kept the Clarendon, at Saratoga, manages 
 THE WORLD'S INN, at Sixtieth Street and Madison Avenue, 
 near the Fair grounds. THE HYDE PARK HOTEL, on Fifty- 
 first Street Boulevard and Lake Avenue, is not far from the 
 Chicago Beach Hotel. It was built before the Fair was pro- 
 posed, and it is patronized by families and permanent guests. 
 American plan only, except during the Fair period. Rates, 
 $3 and upward ; higher rates during the Exposition. A 
 quiet, well-conducted family hotel. Proprietors, Messrs. 
 Charles F. Milligan & Co.
 
 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 
 
 IT is impossible for the young people of this generation to 
 fully appreciate the luxury of the age in which they are liv- 
 ing. What wonderful strides in facilities for railway travel- 
 ling, for example, have been n)ade within the past five and 
 twenty years, or say, even, within the last decade ! 
 
 I begin to fear that I am no longer young. That I am 
 growing reminiscent is of itself proof that I am growing old, 
 but I cannot help recalling the discomforts of railway travel- 
 ling which existed before the existence of a Pullman sleeper 
 or a Wagner drawing-room car, any more than I can forget 
 a through trip which I once made from Cleveland to New 
 York when I was " in my teens." 
 
 Some of the compartments in a first-class English railway 
 carriage are cosey and comfortable enough for a short jour- 
 ney, but one of the most luxurious cars I ever travelled in 
 was a new Wagner palace car which was attached, one day 
 last summer, to " the 3.30 Saratoga Express," on the New 
 York Central Railway ; and I say this after having tried 
 " the Oriental Express " between Paris and Vienna, the Pull- 
 man between Milan and Basle, and the celebrated " Flying 
 Scotchman " between London and Edinburgh. This Wag- 
 ner was as perfect in its way for day travel, as are the Pull- 
 man cars of the justly famed " Florida Special" (vestibuled 
 train) of the Pennsylvania Railroad for night or through 
 travel, and this is saying a very great deal. 
 
 The car under notice was also vestibuled. It was strongly 
 and stoutly built, and was set on spiral springs which carried 
 their great burden with the greatest ease, allowing the car 
 to swing freely with a pleasant motion and little noise. The 
 interior woodwork was of polished mahogany, the floor car- 
 
 288
 
 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 289 
 
 peted with Wilton, and the upper sides and ceiling tastefully, 
 not gaudily, decorated. There is no sitting close together, 
 as in the cars abroad ; each passenger has a separate chair. 
 It is a revolving arm-chair, plush covered, and over the back 
 of the chair there is a linen ' ' tidy," a clean tidy. The 
 chairs no, the seats on " the other side " are also covered, 
 but the covers are often anything but spotless. How often 
 they are removed it is not easy to tell; all the " tidies " in 
 a Wagner car are whipped off every day. 
 
 There are brass hooks for hats and wraps, instead of 
 racks, and a low shelf which may be used for umbrellas or 
 canes. Each passenger has a foot-stool, and I am sorry to 
 add that the company find it necessary to furnish to each 
 passenger a cuspadore. It shines like new silver, to be 
 sure, but still the suggestion is not a pleasant one, and it is 
 a feature to which Americans cannot point with pride. 
 
 The windows are not ten by twelve inches : they measure 
 two feet eight inches each way, and the panes are of heavy 
 plate glass. To each opening there are double windows, 
 for winter service. The shades, for utility, are of dark blue ; 
 and above these, for ornament, are old-gold satin-damask 
 lambrequins. For ornamentation also there is at either end 
 of the car a large mirror with silvered pole, and curtains to 
 match the window drapery. 
 
 No knee robes are needed in this country for railway 
 travel : Wagner cars are heated by steam. Do you want 
 air without dust ? the porter will raise the window and insert 
 a wire screen as well as a cinder deflector. Are your hands 
 soiled ? step into the lavatory. You won't find there a tiny 
 metal basin, but a marble washstand and bowl, and over 
 this a tap with ample supply of water, plenty of towels, clean 
 comb and brush, etc., iced water at your hand. 
 
 But you need not stir from your seat for a glass of water ; 
 touch an electric bell while seated in your chair, and, as if 
 by magic, a sable attendant will be at your side with a glass 
 of cold water, or something which you may deem more re- 
 freshing. Nor need you leave the car for a quiet smoke ;
 
 290 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 
 
 at one end there is a comfortably furnished smoking-room, 
 with all that the title implies. 
 
 The cost of such a car, so the Wagner conductor in- 
 formed me, is about fifteen thousand dollars. 
 
 If you require anything more luxurious for day travel than 
 one of these new Wagner palace cars, you will have to wait 
 until somebody racks his brain to add an additional contriv- 
 ance. But you may have to wait until the end of the cen- 
 tury.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 
 ,895. 
 
 INDEX TO CHAPTERS. 
 
 I. HUDSON HIGHLAND RANGE. 
 II. SHAWANGUNK REGION. 
 III. CATSKILL REGION. 
 IV. OTSEGO REGION. 
 V. CENTRAL LAKES NIAGARA. 
 VI. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 VII. LAKE GEORGE REGION. 
 VIII. ADIRONDACK REGION. 
 IX. GREEN MOUNTAIN REGION. 
 X. WHITE MOUNTAINS MAINE LAKES. 
 XI. BERKSHIRE HILLS CONNECTICUT HILLS. 
 XII. NEW JERSEY HIGHLANDS. 
 XIII. HIGHLANDS OF THE DELAWARE. 
 
 XIV. APPALACHIAN REGION OF PENNSYLVANIA, WEST VIRGINIA 
 AND NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 XV. NEW JERSEY SHORE STATEN ISLAND. 
 XVI. LONG ISLAND. 
 XVII. CONNECTICUT SHORE. 
 
 XVIII. NARRAGANSETT BAY, SOUTH MASSACHUSETTS SHORE AND 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 XIX. EASTERN SHORE. 
 XX. THE WEST.
 
 292 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 I. 
 
 HUDSON HIGHLAND RANGE. 
 
 The range of mountains obliquely crossing the Hudson and 
 known as the Hudson Highlands, forms part of the great chain 
 distinguished as the Blue Ridge in Pennsylvania and the Green 
 Mountains in Vermont ; the name may be applied to all that part 
 of the chain which falls within the State of New York. The 
 Hudson enters the Highlands at Cornwall (fifty-six miles from New 
 York), and leaves them at Peekskill (forty-two miles). At about 
 two-thirds the distance from Peekskill to Cornwall, on the west 
 side, is West Point, famous for Its view and as the site of the 
 United States Military Academy. Opposite West Point is Garrison 
 station, where all trains of the Hudson River road stop, and where 
 there is a steam ferry. Cranston's and other places on the west 
 bank are reached by the West Shore road (Franklin and West 
 Forty-second streets). The Albany morning boats and the Mary 
 Powell make landings at West Point, 'Cornwall and Newburg. 
 Lake Mahopac, the largest of the beautiful lakes of the Highland 
 region, is accessible in an hour and a half from New York by 
 Golden's Bridge branch of the Harlem railroad, or by the New 
 York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Sixth avenue 
 elevated road. Greenwood lake, on the western limit of this region, 
 lies partly in New Jersey, at an elevation of seven hundred and fifty 
 feet ; reached by the New York and Greenwood Lake railroad (Cham- 
 bers and Twenty- third street ferries). The hills that border the 
 Hudson below the Highlands may be regarded as spurs or foot- 
 hills of the mountains ; they are accessible on the east bank by the 
 Hudson River railroad (Grand Central Depot), and by the New 
 York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Manhattan 
 elevated road ; on the west bank by the Northern New Jersey 
 (Chambers and West Twenty-third streets) , which comes out on the 
 river at Piermont (twenty-seven miles), and by the West Shore 
 railroad (Franklin and West Forty-second streets), which comes out 
 on the river at Haverstraw (thirty- three miles). All the more impor- 
 tant places on either bank below the Highlands are touched by 
 steam-boats that leave every afternoon (except Sunday) from foot 
 of Harrison and West Twenty-second streets. 
 
 GARRISON THE HIGHLAND HOUSE. On a plateau 300 feet 
 above and half a mile from Garrison station on the Hudson River rail- 
 road ; one and a quarter hours from New York ; connection with
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 293 
 
 West Point by steam ferry ; outlooks and towers on South Redoubt 
 Mountains, 800 to 1,000 feet above the river ; lawn of twenty acres 
 well shaded ; latest sanitary improvements ; water from mountain 
 springs ; lawn tennis ; bowling and billiard rooms ; livery and 
 boarding stables ; stage meets all trains : receives one hundred and 
 fifty guests. Open in May. 
 
 WEST POINT CRANSTON'S. A station on the West Shore rail- 
 road, a short distance below West Point ; a famous hotel situated 
 on a bold promontory, commanding a grand river and mountain 
 view ; elevator, gas, halls heated by steam, open fire-places in all 
 rooms ; baths on all the floors ; four cottages on the grounds luxu- 
 riously fitted up ; livery at moderate prices ; boarding stables with 
 night watchman ; skilful chef de cuisine and well-disciplined 
 waiters. 
 
 CORNWALL ELMER HOUSE. Five minutes' walk from landing 
 and the West Shore railroad station ; on a bluff two hundred and 
 fifty feet above the river ; family hotel ; electric lights ; good stab- 
 ling ; receives one hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $2.50 to 
 $3; by the week, $12 to $20. Special rates for the season. Open 
 from May to December. Proprietor (for the last 20 years) : Wil- 
 liam B. Elmer, Cornwall-on-Hudson, Orange county. N. Y. 
 
 GREENWOOD LAKE BRANDON HOUSE. On a spur of the 
 mountain jutting into the lake, with lawns sloping to the shore on 
 either side ; grounds of fifty acres ; shaded walks and picturesque 
 rambles ; water from mountain spring ; complete new sanitary ar- 
 rangements ; telegraph and telephone ; two hours and fifteen minutes 
 from New York ; two express trains daily. Prices : By the day, 
 $2.50 to $3; by the week, special rates; special rates for June. 
 Proprietor: D. Edgar Close, Greenwood Lake. Orange county. 
 N. Y 
 
 QUAKER HILL MIZZEN TOP. Three miles from Pawling on 
 the Harlem R. R. ; elevation one thousand three hundred feet, af- 
 fording far-reaching and varied mountain views ; gas, electric bells, 
 bath-rooms, steam-heating apparatus and spring water ; thorough 
 sanitary system ; billiard room and bowling alley ; an " amusement 
 hall " and ladies' billiard rooms ; music for the season ; wide ve- 
 randas ; hotel stage runs morning and afternoon to Hamersly lake, 
 where there are row and sail boats and good fishing ; stabling and
 
 294 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 livery ; receives two hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $4 ; 
 special rates for June. 
 
 PAWLING DUTCHER HOUSE. Sixty-three miles from New 
 York by the Harlem road, a few minutes from the station ; elevation 
 seven hundred feet ; substantial building with Queen Anne cot- 
 tages ; large rooms ; hot and cold baths ; electric bells ; water from 
 mountain springs ; grounds of twelve acres ; opera house, with 
 stage appointments ; daily concerts ; receives two hundred 
 guests. Address, Dutcher House, Pawling, Duchess county, N. Y. 
 
 YONKERS THE GLENWOOD. At Glenwood, on the bank of the 
 river, thirty-five minutes from Ne,w York, via N. Y. C. and H. R. 
 R., or Northern Railroad ; convenient summer residence for families ; 
 bar ; modern improvements ; boating, fishing, bowling ; receives 
 sixty guests. Prices : By the week, for single person, $10 to $12, 
 for two, $16 to $20 ; children, half rate. 
 
 SPUYTEN UUYVIL BRENTFORD HALL. The first railway 
 station on the Hudson river road above Manhattan Island, at the 
 junction of Spuyten Duyvil Creek with the Hudson ; house situated 
 two hundred feet above the river, of which it commands beautiful 
 views ; within twenty-two minutes of Grand Central depot ; exten- 
 sive, well shaded grounds ; tennis and croquet ; delightful drives. 
 Prices : By the week, $10 to $15. 
 
 LAKE MAHOPAC THOMPSON'S HOTEL. On the southern shore 
 of the lake, commanding a beautiful view of its islands and wooded 
 hills ; large and comfortably fitted up rooms in suites for families ; 
 perfect drainage ; billiard-room, bowling-alley ; steam yacht, sail and 
 row boats ; telegraph office ; receives four hundred guests. Open 
 from June to October. Prices: By the day, $3.50; by the week, 
 $15 to $25. Proprietor, Emerson Clark, Lake Mahopac, N. Y. 
 
 LAKE MAHOPAC DEAN HOUSE. On a shaded lawn of eight 
 acres on the west side of the lake, sloping to the wharves and boat- 
 house ; bathing-house, handsome boats ; billiard-room, bowling-al- 
 ley ; stabling ; milk and vegetables from the hotel farm ; furnished 
 cottage to let, with board at hotel. Open about June i. Prices : 
 By the day, $3.50; by the week, $15 to $30. Proprietor, A. H. 
 Dean. Lake Mahopac, N. Y.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 295 
 
 II. 
 
 SHAWANGUNK REGION. 
 
 Under this name may be included that elevated plateau which, 
 touching on the Hudson between Rondout and Poughkeepsie, ex- 
 tends from the Wallkill Valley on the east to the western descent 
 of the Blue Hills beyond the upper waters of the Susquehanna. 
 embracing Sullivan and parts of Ulster and Delaware counties. It 
 is crossed by the Shawangunk Mountains, and west of them by a 
 wilderness of hills and valleys which, in primitive savagery, may 
 almost take rank with the Adirondacks. It is a favored haunt of 
 sportsmen. Clubs of sportsmen have purchased lakes and tracts 
 ot land, and are doing much to preserve the fish and game. The 
 southwestern portion of this region is crossed by the Erie railway, 
 branches of which extend from Middletown to Pine Bush in Ulster 
 county, and from Port Jervis to Monticello in Sullivan county. 
 The central portion is penetrated by the New York, Ontario and 
 Western Railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) ; from 
 Campbell Hall a branch of this road runs through the Wallkill 
 Valley to Rondout-Kingston on the Hudson ; from Summitville 
 a branch extends eight miles to Ellenville, Sullivan county ; from 
 Walten a branch extends seventeen miles to Delhi, Delaware 
 county. The villages and hamlets thus brought within easy reach 
 lie at an elevation of from 700 to 2,200 feet above tide water. 
 
 LAKE MINNEWASKA CLIFF HOUSE AND THE WILDMERE. A 
 lake of very picturesque environment, at an elevation of one thou- 
 sand eight hundred feet, on the most easterly range of the Shawan- 
 gunk Mountain region, ten miles by stage from New Paltz on the 
 Wallkill Valley road, accessible via Kingston on the West Shore road, 
 or via Campbell Hall on the New York, Ontario and Western road. 
 The Cliff House, standing one hundred and fifty feet above the 
 lake on the east, commands a view extending from the Hudson 
 Highlands on the south to the Catskills, and up the Hudson river 
 valley to the Lake George region on the north, and from the line 
 of the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east and north- 
 east, to ranges of the Shawangunk Hills on the west ; it receives 
 two hundred and fifty guests. The Wildmere House, on the ridge 
 west of the lake, is somewhat larger than the former and commands 
 similar views ; it is still more recent in construction ; lighted with 
 gas, halls heated by furnaces, the rooms having open fire-places 
 for burning the resinous mountain pine ; private balconies. The
 
 296 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 region surrounding the lake is overgrown with pine and hemlock, 
 and remains in its primitive condition, with the exceptions that 
 roads have been opened to the various waterfalls, caverns, preci- 
 pices, etc., with which it abounds. Both houses are temperance 
 houses, and in the management certain restrictions are imposed 
 which have secured for them a select patronage. Prices : By the 
 day, $2 to $3, according to the season ; by the week, in June, $n to 
 $14; July and August, $15 to $20 ; after September i, $14 to $16; 
 modified rates for double rooms. Proprietor, Alfred H. Smiley. 
 
 ELLENVILLE Mi. MEENAHGA HOUSE. Two miles by stage 
 from Ellenville a village of four thousand inhabitants, terminus of 
 branch of the New York, Ontario and Western road ; elevation one 
 thousand five hundred feet ; two hundred acres of wild mountain 
 land ; view bounded on the north by the Catskill ranges ; enlarged 
 since last season ; wide hallways, veranda one hundred and thirty 
 feet long ; a " library building," well supplied with books, maga- 
 zines, etc.; bowling alley and children's playground; gas, steam 
 heat and open fires ; electric bells in all rooms ; spring water ; bath- 
 rooms ; a strict temperance house ; six furnished cottages rented 
 for the season at $100 to $200, with table board at $8; receives 
 one hundred and seventy-five guests. Prices: By the day, $2.50 
 and $3; by the week, $12 to $25 ; double rooms, $18 to $35. Pro- 
 prietor, U. E. Terwilliger, Ellenville, Ulster county, N. Y. 
 
 GREENFIELD WINDSOR LAKE HOUSE. Five miles by stage 
 from Ellenville and about three and a half hours from New York ; 
 one hundred and twenty acres of mountain land, with fifty acres 
 under cultivation ; elevation one thousand five hundred feet, over- 
 looking the lake ; rebuilt and enlarged since last season ; all mod- 
 ern improvements, large parlors, broad halls, wide stairs ; baths 
 with hot and cold water on every floor ; sanitary plumbing ; open 
 fire-places ; broad piazzas and balconies ; pure water from a moun- 
 tain spring ; table supplied from the farms ; an extensive lawn, 
 with lawn tennis, archery and croquet grounds ; billiards and bowl- 
 ing ; stages to and from depot ; good livery ; receives two hun- 
 dred guests. Open June 15 to October i. Prices : By the day, 
 for June, September and October, $2 ; for July and August, $2.50 ; 
 by the week, single rooms, $10 to $15 ; double rooms, $i6to$25; 
 special rates to families, or for the season. Address Greenfield, 
 Ulster county, N. Y.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 297 
 
 LIBERTY HOTEL WAWONDA. Situated on an elevation over- 
 looking Liberty village ; two thousand feet above sea level ; one mile 
 from station ; wide verandas and private balconies ; bath-rooms, 
 gas, electric bells and all the conveniences and elegancies of first- 
 class hotels ; receives two hundred guests. 
 
 III. 
 
 THE CATSKILL REGION. 
 
 The most easterly range of the Catskill Mountains lies ten miles 
 west of the Hudson river, and runs parallel with it for a distance of 
 twenty miles, its southern limit being about ninety miles from the 
 mouth of the river. The width of the Catskill Mountain region is 
 about seventy-five miles. It is drained on the west by the head- 
 waters of the Delaware river, and by the Schoharie creek, which 
 runs in a northwesterly direction to the Mohawk. It includes por- 
 tions of Greene, Ulster and Delaware counties. The mountains 
 are approached from Rondout on the Hudson, eighty-eight miles 
 from New York, and from Catskill on the Hudson, one hundred 
 and nine miles. From Rondout the Ulster and Delaware Railroad 
 penetrates the mountain region in a northwesterly direction to 
 Hobart, seventy-eight miles. At Phoenicia, on this road, a branch 
 of fourteen miles, called the Stony Clove Railroad, extends to Hun- 
 ter on Schoharie creek, and by means of a minor branch of four 
 miles gives approach to the Kaaterskill House and other large 
 hotels of the range that faces the Hudson. These hotels are also 
 approached by the Catskill Mountain Railroad, which runs from 
 Catskill Landing to Cairo, a branch running southward from 
 Cairo Junction to Palenville, at the base of the mountain range, 
 whence an Otis elevating railroad has been laid up the mountain, 
 giving direct access to the old Catskill Mountain House. Rondout 
 and Catskill, the two points of departure for the mountains, are 
 accessible by the West Shore road (Franklin street and West Forty- 
 second street) ; or by ferry from stations on the Hudson River road ; 
 or by Albany day boats, leaving Vestry street at half-past eight, 
 and Twenty-second street at nine A. M. 
 
 JEFFERSON HEIGHTS GRANT HOUSE. On a plateau three 
 hundred feet high, one mile from Catskill village and the West Shore 
 station, the view embracing the valleys of the Catskill and Kaater-
 
 298 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 skill, Catskill Mountains and the Hudson valley ; electric bells, gas, 
 hot and cold water baths on every floor ; billiards and bowling ; a 
 pleasure ground of thirty acres sloping down to the creek ; orches- 
 tral concerts twice a day and for the dance in the evening ; re- 
 ceives three hundred guests. Open May 30 until late in September. 
 Prices : By the day, $3 ; by the week, single rooms, $12 to $20 ; 
 double rooms, $20 to $30 ; special rates for the season. Reduced 
 rates for June. 
 
 SUMMIT MT. THE NEW GRAND HOTEL. On Summit Mountain, 
 at an elevation of two thousand five hundred feet ; a few minutes' 
 walk from the station, on the Ulsler and Delaware Railroad, thirty- 
 eight miles from Rondout ; through parlor cars by the West Shore 
 Road ; four and a half hours from New York ; surroundings include 
 Old Storm King (four thousand feet), the Slide, the Wittenberg 
 and the Cornell, inclosing Big Indian Valley ; in Queen Anne 
 style, with frontage of six hundred and fifty feet ; wide verandas, 
 palatial salon ; bedrooms, 17 x 19 feet, with ample wardrobes ; 
 suites with private baths ; dining-room with mountain view on 
 two sides ; elevators, steam heat, electric bells ; orchestral con- 
 certs twice daily ; receives four hundred guests. Open June to 
 October. Prices: By the day, $5.00; by the week, single rooms, 
 $21 to $28; double rooms, $42 to $60; special rates for suites of 
 rooms with private bath ; rates reduced for July. Manager, S. J. 
 Cornell. 
 
 SOUTH MOUNTAIN HOTEL KAATERSKILL. On the summit of 
 Kaaterskill (South Mountain), at an elevation of three thousand 
 feet, commanding the view of the Hudson river valley ; drive of a 
 few minutes from Kaaterskill station on the Kaaterskill branch of 
 the Stony Clove Railroad ; gas, elevators, electric bells, steam 
 heat ; baths on every floor ; suites with private baths ; ball-room, 
 with stage appointments ; orchestral music ; billiard room, 
 bowling-alley ; separate cottage building for invalids and families 
 desiring seclusion and quiet ; telegraph ; livery with good saddle 
 horses. Prices in July, by the week $21 and upwards. Address, 
 Kaaterskill P. O., N. V 
 
 KAATERSKILL FALLS LAUREL HOUSE. At the head of the 
 cascades, one of which is a fall of two hundred feet ; within three 
 hundred yards of the Laurel House station on the Kaaterskill 
 branch of the Stony Clove Road ; hotel stage meets all trains at
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 299 
 
 the station, also at the Palenville station on the Catskill Mountain 
 Railroad from Catskill village ; verandas six hundred feet in 
 length ; gas, electric bells ; bath-rooms on every floor ; pure spring 
 water ; receives three hundred guests. Open from June 15 to 
 October i. 
 
 CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE Short stage drive from 
 Mountain House station on the railway from Catskill village, or di- 
 rectly accessible by the new Elevating Railroad from the foot of the 
 Mountain ; on a ledge of rock at an elevation of two thousand two 
 hundred and fifty feet, the view bounded by the Hudson Highlands 
 on the south, the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east, 
 and the Adirondacks on the north ; park of three thousand acres 
 intersected by drives and footpaths ; water from mountain springs ; 
 bath-rooms, approved plumbing; receives four hundred guests. 
 Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $14 to $24, according to the 
 season ; special rates for a prolonged stay. Proprietors, Catskill 
 Mountain House Co., Catskill, N. Y. 
 
 IV. 
 
 OTSEGO LAKE REGION. 
 
 This highland, which forms the watershed of the Susquehanna, 
 lies west of the Catskill region and has an elevation of 1,200 to 
 1,700 feet, being the highest plateau in the State of New York, ex- 
 cept that crossed by the Adirondack ranges. The surface is 
 picturesquely broken up into hills of moderate elevation. At the 
 northern limit lies Lake Canadarago, at the southern Lake Otsego. 
 The latter, to which the surrounding hills give a varied and beau- 
 tiful shore line, is nine miles long and from one to one and one- 
 half wide. Cooperstown, which derives its name from the novelist 
 whose "Leather Stocking " tales have given the place celebrity, 
 lies at the south end of the lake and is ninety-one miles from 
 Albany, from which it is reached by the Susquehanna division of 
 the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s railway and Cooperstown 
 branch without change. Lake Canadarago, five miles long by twoin 
 width, lies fourteen miles northwest of Lake Otsego, at an eleva- 
 tion of one thousand seven hundred feet, amid an environment of 
 wooded hills. Richfield Springs, one mile from the lake, is reached 
 by the New York Central railroad to Utica, thence by the Delaware,
 
 300 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 Lackawanna and Western railway to Richfield Junction, thence by 
 branch road, without change. A four-horse tally-ho coach makes 
 daily trips between Cooperstown and Richfield Springs. 
 
 RICHFIELD SPRINGS HOTEL EARLINGTON. Delightfully 
 situated, with charming outlook over park ; large rooms, single and 
 en suite ; large open fire-places in the ladies' parlor and grand hall ; 
 elevator, cafe and ladies' and gentlemen's billiard-room ; bowling 
 alley and shooting gallery ; shaded tennis courts ; electric bells, 
 gas, new sanitary plumbing throughout ; bath-rooms on each floor ; 
 Stubblebine's orchestra of twelve pieces ; branch of Dickel riding 
 school ; superior stabling accomn&dations ; elaborate cuisine and 
 thoroughly disciplined service ; the four-horse coach " Earlington " 
 makes the circuit of the lake every afternoon ; receives five hundred 
 guests. Open June 30 to September 15. Prices : By the day, 
 for transient guests, $4. Owner and manager, Eugene M. Earle, 
 who may be seen at the Hotel Bristol, Fifth avenue and Forty- 
 second street, New York. 
 
 RICHFIELD SPRINGS DAVENPOKT HOUSE. On high ground 
 opposite the Sulphur Spring and the bath house, its front rooms over- 
 looking the park; broad veranda, one hundred and fifty feet in 
 length, shaded by elms and maples ; electric bells ; thorough drain- 
 age ; servants' quarters in a separate building ; receives two hun- 
 dred guests. Open June i to October i. Special rates for June and 
 September. Address Richfield Springs, Otsego County, N. Y. 
 
 SHARON SPRINGS PAVILION HOTEL. In an upland valley, 
 elevation one thousand one hundred feet, surrounded by hills ; on a 
 branch of the Albany and Susquehanna railroad ; famous for its 
 sulphur springs, for the utilization of whose water extensive bath- 
 ing houses have been erected with every appliance for inhalation, 
 douches, etc., under medical direction. The Pavilion Hotel is the 
 largest in the place and consists of a main building and several 
 groups of cottages, in ornamented grounds of fifty acres, command- 
 ing a view extending beyond the Mohawk valley to the hills around 
 Lake George, eighty miles distant ; plans and appointments es- 
 pecially adapted to families with young children ; detached play- 
 house for children ; separate bowling and billiard hall exclusively 
 for guests ; afternoon and evening concerts ; cottages and cottage
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 801 
 
 flats at fixed rental ; baths, bells, etc., throughout ; receives five 
 
 hundred guests. Prices : By the week, $15 to $21. Proprietors, 
 John H. Gardner & Son, Sharon Springs, N. Y. 
 
 SHARON SPRINGS SHARON HOUSE. On Main street, facing 
 the Sulphur Baths, and commanding a view of the adjacent forests ; 
 during the winter the house has been thoroughly renovated, and 
 new furniture and new mattresses have been added ; good livery 
 in connection with the hotel ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. 
 Prices : By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $12 to $16. Proprietor, 
 Thomas K. Sharp. 
 
 V. 
 
 CENTRAL LAKES, N. Y. NIAGARA. 
 
 The Lakes of Central New York, having a general direction 
 north and south, lie in the valleys of the hills that form the exten- 
 sion of the mountains of Western Pennsylvania. Their waters 
 flow northward, and are tributary to the Seneca River, which 
 empties into Lake Ontario at Oswego. Skaneateles, the most easterly 
 of these lakes, lies at an elevation of eight hundred and sixty-five 
 feet above the sea level ; Canandaigua, the most westerly, at an eleva- 
 tion of six hundred and sixty-eight feet. Between these lie Owasco 
 (seven hundred and fifty-eight feet), Cayuga and Seneca (four hun- 
 dred and forty-one feet), and Keuka (seven hundred and eighteen 
 feet). The region abounds in precipitous water courses and glens, 
 famous among which is Watkins Glen, an ascending series of gorges 
 between two mountains, thirteen miles in length, situated at the head 
 or southern limit of Seneca Lake. 
 
 LAKE SKANEATELES THE PACKWOOD. Delightfully situ- 
 ated on shore of Skaneateles lake ; two steamers on lake ; sailing, 
 rowing and fishing ; good livery and beautiful drives ; house in per- 
 fect sanitary condition. Prices : By the day, $2 ; special rates to 
 families. 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS CLIFTON HOUSE. On the Canada bank, 
 fronting the park reservations, all the rooms and balconies affording 
 full view of the falls ; appointments and management of the first
 
 802 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 order ; perfect drainage ; air cooled by the spray of the falls ; hotel 
 stages and porters meet all trains at Niagara Falls station on the 
 American side ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. Prices : 
 By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, special rates. Proprietor, G. 
 M. Colburn, Niagara Falls, N. Y. 
 
 VI. 
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 The most frequented inland resort in America. Its season lasts 
 from June to October. The village has a population of about 
 twelve thousand, but in the height of the season it adds to this 
 number not less than thirty thousand visitors. It is one hundred 
 and eighty-two miles north of New York, and is reached by the 
 West Shore or the Hudson River railroads to Albany, thence by 
 Saratoga and Champlain division of the Delaware and Hudson 
 Canal Company's Railroad, without change ; or by boat to Albany, 
 thence as above. 
 
 UNITED STATES HOTEL. Built in the form of an irregular 
 pentagon, enclosing an inner court and including in all an area of 
 seven acres ; six stories high, with nine hundred and seventeen guest 
 chambers ; divided into five sections by fire-proof walls ; fire hy- 
 drants in each section and on every* floor ; ten staircases ; two 
 elevators ; dining-room, 212 feet by 52 feet ; ball-room, 102 feet by 
 53 feet, 26 feet in height ; verandas in all 2,300 feet in length, en- 
 circling the inner court, where are shade trees, fountains, statuary, 
 winding walks, and where grand morning concerts are given by 
 Stub's orchestra ; a " cottage wing" arranged in suites for families ; 
 with private bath-rooms ; private table when desired. Open from 
 June 22 ; always remains open to October i. Prices : By the day, 
 $5, favorable arrangements with families by the week up to August 
 i. Proprietors, Tompkins Gage & Perry. 
 
 GRAND UNION HOTEL. One of the most magnificent of sum- 
 mer hotels, with a frontage of two thousand four hundred feet ; built 
 about a central court which is beautifully laid out ; the rotunda, 
 into which the main entrance leads, is eighty feet in diameter and
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 03 
 
 rises to the top of the building with balconies at each of the five 
 stories ; to the left are reception-rooms and the grand salon, noted 
 for the beauty of its decorations and furnishings ; in the great 
 dining-room one thousand guests may be seated ; "a beautiful ball- 
 room ; three elevators and broad stairways ; every convenience 
 and luxury of appointment that modern ingenuity has devised. 
 Prices : By the day, $5 and upwards ; special rates for September 
 and by the season. 
 
 WINDSOR HOTEL. Central, but retired, on the brow of the hill, 
 overlooking Congress Park, fronting on Broadway and William 
 street, adjacent to the famous Pompeian Villa ; a select family 
 house, having in the quiet elegance of all its appointments more 
 the character of a private home than of a public hotel ; rooms 
 single and in suites with private bath ; scientific plumbing ; steam 
 beat ; electric lights and bells ; wide balconies to every floor ; 
 choice cuisine and refined service ; servants exclusively white ; late 
 dinners. Prices : By the day, $5 and upwards. 
 
 CONGRESS HALL. On Broadway, adjoining Congress Park 
 occupying the block between the Congress and Hathorn springs ; 
 fa9ade four hundred and seventy feet in length ; veranda twenty 
 feet wide, two hundred and fifty feet long ; five stories in height ; 
 commanding a view of the most brilliant portion of Saratoga ; two 
 wings, three hundred feet long, enclosing a beautiful garden ; sub- 
 stantially built of brick and stone in seven fire-proof compartments, 
 with heavy iron doors on each floor ; elevators, gas, hot and cold 
 water; bath-rooms on every floor; water from springs on the 
 grounds ; separate concert and ball-room, connected with the house 
 by a suspension bridge ; daily morning and evening full orchestral 
 concerts ; semi-weekly hops ; receives several hundred guests. 
 Open June to October i. Prices: By the day, $3, $3.50 and 
 $4; special rates by the week. 
 
 DR. S. E. STRONG'S SANITARIUM. On Circular street, 
 within a few steps of the principal springs, hotels and the park ; ex- 
 tensive improvements made recently, including a decorated recep- 
 tion hall, electric bells, a passenger elevator, leading to a sun parlor, 
 which opens out upon a roof promenade ; steam heat and open fire- 
 place, making it specially attractive to the delicate and valetudina-
 
 304 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 rian ; massage, Turkish, Russian, Roman, electro-thermal and other 
 baths, as well as the usual appointments of first-class hotels; 
 spacious parlors, in which musical and other entertainmeuts are 
 given ; Delsarte system of physical culture ; gymnasium and 
 spacious verandas ; frequented by a cultivated circle. Open all 
 the year. Prices: By the day, $2 to $2.50; by the week, $10 to 
 $15; ten per cent, discount to clergymen and physicians. Pro- 
 prietor, Dr. S. E. Strong. 
 
 MT. McGREGOR HOTEL BALMORAL. On the southernmost 
 spur of the Adirondack Mountains, ten and one-half miles from Sara- 
 toga, from which it is reached by trains every hour ; elevation one 
 thousand three hundred feet ; all modern improvements ; open fire- 
 places ; verandas twenty to forty feet wide ; billiards, bowling 
 alley, art gallery ; waters brought daily from the Saratoga springs ; 
 three lakes stocked with fish and supplied with boats ; telegraph 
 office and daily stock quotations ; free passes to and from Saratoga 
 to hotel guests ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. 
 
 VII. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE REGION. 
 
 Lake George, or the Horicon, famous for the beauty of its envi- 
 ronment, lies on the southeastern border of the Adirondack 
 region, in the midst of wooded hills, with mountains in the dis- 
 tance. Is thirty-six miles long, three-quarters of a mile to four 
 miles wide, and in places four hundred feet deep. Its waters, flow- 
 ing northward into Lake Champlain, aje tributary to the St. Law- 
 rence. Caldwell, a small town at its head or southern extremity, 
 is reached from Albany by the Saratoga line of the Delaware and 
 Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Baldwin, at the north end, is 
 reached from Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain by a branch 
 of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Steam- 
 boats ply between Caldwell and Baldwin, making two trips a day. 
 
 For routes see preceding chapter. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL. A house of 
 large proportions and fine appointments, with porticoes affording
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 305 
 
 views of the lake and the mountains ; recent improvements include 
 new docks and swimming baths, tennis grounds ; new bowling-alley 
 and billiard-tables, elevator, new dining room, new cottages ; electric 
 lights, etc.; water from mountain springs; perfect drainage; full 
 orchestra ; choice cuisine. Special rates for families. Proprietor 
 and manager, Wm. Noble. New York office, Hotel Grenoble, 
 Fifty-seventh street and Seventh avenue. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE THE SAGAMORE. On Green Island, a wooded 
 island of about seventy-five acres, off the west shore, ten miles 
 north of Caldwell. connected by a bridge with the mainland ; built 
 a few years ago and having the picturesque look of a cottage-like 
 grouping of buildings, or a rambling old English manor house ; 
 large music hall and ball-room connected with the main building ; 
 Edison electric lights, electric bells, elevator ; water from mountain 
 springs ; tennis grounds ; billiard-room ; bowling ; sail and row 
 boats, steam yacht, horses and carriages ; telegraph office ; steamer 
 from Caldwell on arrival of evening train ; receives four hundred 
 guests. Open June to October i. Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the 
 week, $17.50 to $25 ; reduced rates from June i to June 20; special 
 rates for the season. Proprietor, Myron O. Brown, Bolton Land- 
 ing, Lake George, N. Y. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE MARION HOUSE. On the west shore, six miles 
 from Caldwell, three hundred feet from the lake, the grounds ex- 
 tending to the shore ; surrounded by a grove ; wide verandas ; 
 billiard-room, tennis ground, steam yacht and boats ; gas, electric 
 bells, elevator ; orchestral music morning and evening ; telegraph 
 office ; livery ; receives four hundred guests. Prices : By the 
 week, $14 to $25. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE PEARL POINT HOUSE. A steamboat landing 
 on the east shore, twelve miles from Caldwell, in one of the most 
 beautiful parts of the lake ; all steamers land at the wharf ; large 
 fleet of sail and row boats ; vegetables and dairy products from 
 hotel farm ; telegraph office ; receives one hundred and fifty 
 guests. Open in June. Prices : By the day, $3.50 ; by the week, 
 $12 to $20.
 
 306 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 ADIRONDACK REGION THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 The massif of the Adirondack region has a general elevation of 
 one thousand five hundred to two thousand feet, and an extent of 
 about fifteen thousand square miles. It is crossed by five mountain 
 ranges. The number of peaks is said to be five hundred, the 
 highest of which, Mount Marcy, rises five thousand three hundred 
 and thirty-seven feet above the sea level. In the valleys there are 
 more than one thousand lakes, variously connected by streams, 
 whose waters feed Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence or the 
 Hudson. Being thus drained and intersected by watercourses on 
 every side, it is a region of a peculiarly wild and broken character. 
 It may be entered from the east by stage routes from Westport, 
 Port Kent and Plattsburg stations on the Champlain division of 
 the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railways, a branch of 
 which extends from Plattsburg to Ausable in the mountains. From 
 the south and west it is entered by the Adirondack division of the 
 same road, which runs northward from Saratoga to North Creek 
 (fifty-seven miles), and when completed will extend to Ogdensburg, 
 on the St. Lawrence. At North Creek stages connect with Blue 
 Mountain Lake and with the Long Lake and Raquette Lake 
 region. An intermediate route is that by the way of Schroon Lake. 
 Schroon Lake is ten miles long and two miles wide, and is bor- 
 dered on the North by lofty summits ; it is reached by a stage drive 
 of six miles from Riverside station on the Saratoga and Adiron- 
 dack railroad. From Pottersville, the terminus of the stage route, 
 steamers ply to Schroon village and other points on the lake. The 
 Lake of Luzerne, on the southern limits of the Adirondack high- 
 land, lies at the junction of the upper Hudson and the Sacondaga 
 Rivers, at an elevation of seven hundred feet ; it is twenty-two 
 miles north of Saratoga, from which it is reached by the Saratoga 
 and Adirondack railroad (Hadley station). The " Thousand Is- 
 lands " in the St. Lawrence River extend from Cape Vincent at 
 the foot of Lake Ontario to Ogdensburg, a distance of forty miles. 
 Alexandria Bay, midway between these points, is accessible by 
 steamer from Cape Vincent, to which the New York, Ontario and 
 Western railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) run 
 Pullman sleepers without change ; or by steamers plying between 
 Clayton and Ogdensburg, the termini of the Utica and Black 
 River railroad, which connects at Utica with the New York Cen- 
 tral. From Rome on the latter road branches the Rome, Water- 
 town and Ogdensburg railroad.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 307 
 
 SCHROON LAKE LELAND HOUSE AND COTTAGES. At Schroon 
 Lake village, near the head of the lake, with view of the lake and the 
 neighboring mountains ; verandas three hundred and forty-six feet 
 in length, and an observatory one hundred and seven feet high ; 
 two cottages of twelve rooms each ; grounds, extending to the lake, 
 shaded with evergreens ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
 Open from June 15 to October i. Prices : By the day, $3 to $3.50 ; 
 by the week, $12.50 to $21 ; special rates by the season. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY HOTEL WESTMINSTER. In Westminster 
 Park, comprising two hundred and twelve acres of land, at eastern 
 end of Wells Island ; park nearly two miles in length, lying among 
 the One Thousand Islands, in front of and only one-half mile distant 
 from Alexandria Bay ; reached by ferry every hour ; commanding 
 views of the St. Lawrence River ; pure and bracing air ; sloping 
 green lawns planted with forest trees ; sandy beaches for bathing ; 
 spacious verandas ; house fully equipped with all modern appli- 
 ances ; electric bells ; baths ; telegraph ; fine orchestra ; dancing. 
 Open June i to October i. Prices : By the day, $2 to $3 ; by the 
 week, $12 to $17. Special rates to families and parties. Address, 
 Alexandria Bay, N. Y. 
 
 LOWER SARANAC LAKE THE AMPERSAND. One mile from 
 the village, which is accessible by the Chateaugay Railroad from 
 Plattsburg on Lake Champlain time from New York fourteen 
 miles ; the hotel, built primarily for winter guests, is on a slope, 
 amid pines, hemlocks and balsams, and its verandas, which in 
 winter are enclosed in glass, command a magnificent view of the 
 lake and surrounding mountains ; large annex building and cottages 
 recently erected ; tents and other provision made for day camps ; 
 heated with steam and lighted with gas ; two large fire-places in the 
 main office ; large and elegant public and private dining-rooms ; 
 ladies' billiard parlor ; elevator ; table supplied from farm with 
 fresh milk, eggs and vegetables ; receives one hundred and thirty- 
 five guests. Open all the year. Prices : By the day, $3 to $5. 
 Managers, Eaton & Young, Ampersand, Franklin county, N. Y. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE. A " summer 
 palace," with lofty porticos on three sides, thirteen feet in width, 
 commanding beautiful views of river and Islands ; central tower
 
 308 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 one hundred and sixty feet high ; dining-room 100 by 40 feet and 
 27 feet high ; grand saloon and reception rooms ; gas, electric bells, 
 elevators ; bowling alleys and billiard rooms ; fleet of boats ; ex- 
 cursions among the islands twice daily by a small steamer ; orches- 
 tral music ; daily telegraphic stock reports ; receives four hundred 
 guests. Prices: By the day, $4; by the week, $17.50 to $28; re- 
 duced rates. 
 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS THE FRONTENAC. On Round Island, 
 in the American channel, one mile below the Clayton Railroad 
 terminus, steamboats connecting with all trains ; one mile long and 
 about one-fourth in width, rising oradually to the centre, where a 
 public lawn is laid out ; irregular" shore line, skirted with woods ; 
 hotel on the highest point : veranda of seven hundred feet ; ob- 
 servatory one hundred and fifty feet high, offering an extensive 
 view of river and islands ; elevator ; gas, electric bells, steam heat ; 
 orchestral music ; boats and oarsmen ; daily excursions among the 
 islands ; post and telegraph offices ; receives three hundred and 
 fifty guests. Address. Frontenac, Jefferson county, N. Y. 
 
 LAKE MASSAWEPIE CHILDWOLD PARK HOUSE AND COT- 
 TAGES. Childwold Park consists of about five thousand acres, in- 
 cluding Lake Massawepie and five charming lakelets ; five miles b> 
 stage from Childwold station on new Adirondack and St. Lawrence 
 Railroad, which branches at Herkimer from the New York Cen- 
 tral ; through vestibuled trains from Grand Central depot without 
 change ; hotel erected recently now enlarged ; in a grove of forest 
 trees between two lakes, and commanding an uninterrupted view 
 of Lake Massawepie ; three Queen Ann cottages on the lake to rent 
 by the month or season ; canoes and experienced guides ; deer, 
 trout and bass ; picturesque rambles and drives within the park ; 
 well-equipped livery ; medical attendance ; telegraph and daily 
 mails ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. 
 Prices : By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, $15 to $21 ; special 
 rates for season. 
 
 BLUFF POINT HOTEL CHAMPLAIN. A commanding promon- 
 tory on the west shore of Lake Champlain, separating the valley of 
 the Salmon River from the lake ; three miles south of Plattsburg ; 
 upon a broad plateau, which has been cleared in the primitive
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 30P 
 
 forest, reached by a winding pike road from Bluff Point station at 
 the foot of the hill ; the outlook embraces nearly a thousand square 
 miles of valley, lake and mountain ; westward and southward the 
 ranges of the Adirondacks, eastward the lake with its bays and 
 islands with the mountains beyond ; varied means of diversion are 
 offered steamboat and sailboat excursions on the lake, excursions 
 by local railway trains, delightful rambles, horseback trips, the 
 hunting and fishing grounds of the Adirondacks within a day's 
 outing ; billiard tables and bowling alleys in a separate building. 
 Manager, O. D. Seavey. Address, Hotel Champlain, P. O., Clinton 
 county, N. Y. 
 
 SARANAC LAKE SARANAC LAKE HOUSE. On the Lower Sar- 
 anac, one mile by stage from Miller's station on the Chateaugay Rail- 
 road ; elevation two thousand feet ; lake is stocked with fish ; on 
 the borders of a forest stretching for miles in all directions ; large 
 rooms in suites of two to six ; open fire-places in parlors, office and 
 dining-room ; electric bells ; wide verandas nearly one thousand 
 feet in length ; bowling and billiards ; camping equipments at 
 moderate prices ; telegraph and daily mail ; fresh vegetables, milk, 
 butter, etc., from farm; livery stables; receives three hundred 
 guests. Open May i to November i. Prices : By the day, $3 to 
 $4 ; special rates for a prolonged stay. 
 
 LAKE LUZERNE WAYSIDE INN AND COTTAGES. On a plateau 
 bordering the lake ; elevation above tide water seven hundred and 
 fifty feet ; picturesque house in Swiss cottage style ; ornamented 
 grounds of twenty acres with tennis court ; fifty boats on the lake ; 
 livery and boarding stables. Open June to October i. Prices: 
 By the day, $3.50 and $4 ; by the week, $21 to $28 ; ten furnished 
 cottages, rented at $200 to $1,000 for the season ; supplied in whole 
 or in part from the hotel table ; table board for cottagers, $14 per 
 week ; special rates for September ; connection by telephone. 
 
 TRENTON FALLS MOORE'S HOTEL. Eighteen miles north of 
 Utica ; direct connections from New York by the Rome, Water- 
 town and Ogdensburgh Railroad ; the new Adirondack railroad 
 crosses the ravine, only a mile from the hotel ; five cascades, mak- 
 ing a total fall of two hundred feet, in a ravine remarkable for pic- 
 turesque grandeur. "The river," said the poet Willis, "in the
 
 .310 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 heart of that fearful chasm is the most varied and beautiful assem- 
 blage of the thousand forms and shapes of running water I have ever 
 seen." Hotel appointments include a large library and valuable 
 pictures. Open May to October. Prices : By the day, $3 to 
 $3.50 ; by the week, $14 to $20. Special rates by the month. 
 
 THE BELCEIL MTS., CANADA IROQUOIS HOUSE. Two and 
 a half miles from St. Hilaire station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 
 twenty-two miles from Montreal ; hotel carriages meet all trains ; 
 hotel stands on a table rock at an elevation of one thousand six 
 hundred feet, commanding an extensive and varied view ; adjacent 
 to a mountain lake three miles in circumference, affording fishing, 
 bathing and boating ; large bath-houses supplied by a stream of 
 water from the lake ; grounds of practically unlimited extent, pic- 
 turesquely varied ; billiards, bowling-alley ; livery at moderate 
 rates ; receives four hundred guests. Open from May to Septem- 
 ber. Prices : By the day, $2 to $3 ; by the week, $10 to $17. 
 Address, St. Hilaire, P. Q., Canada. 
 
 IX. 
 
 GREEN MOUNTAIN REGION. 
 
 The Green Mountains are the most northerly extension of the 
 ranges of which the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts, the Litch- 
 field Hills of Connecticut and the Highlands of the Hudson form 
 part. They run about midway between the Connecticut River on 
 the east and the valley of Lake Champlain and the Hudson on the 
 west, and with their foothills and spurs, give picturesque character 
 to the entire State which derives from them its name. The high- 
 est summits are Mount Mansfield (four thousand three hundred and 
 forty-eight feet) , Camel's Hump (four thousand one hundred and 
 eighty-eight feet), Killington Peak (three thousand nine hundred 
 and twenty-four feet), and Ascutney (three thousand three hundred 
 and twenty feet). 
 
 MANCHESTER EQUINOX HOUSE. A beautiful village on the 
 Bennington and Rutland Railway, thirty miles south of Rutland, 
 in a valley three miles wide, with the Green Mountains on the east
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 311 
 
 and Mount Equinox on the west, from the summit of which may be 
 seen Lakes George and Champlain, the Catskills, Greylock and the 
 Franconia chain of White Mountains. Hotel of the first-class, with 
 extensive grounds ; stocked trout pond one mile from hotel, for 
 special use of guests ; table water from Equinox spring, one thou- 
 sand five hundred feet above the village, possessing valuable cura- 
 tive qualities, "as near perfect as any water known," says Profes- 
 sor Chandler ; thorough drainage appointments with new system 
 of water supply ; music afternoon and evening ; billiards, bowling- 
 alley, tennis and croquet grounds ; beautiful drives and excursions ; 
 well equipped livery ; dogs not taken. Prices : By the day, $4 ; 
 by the week, $21, $25 and $28; in the cottage, with light rooms, 
 service, etc., $17.50. Proprietor, F. H. Orvis, Manchester, Ben- 
 nington county, Vt. 
 
 MIDDLETOWN SPRINGS MONTVERT HOTEL. Seven miles 
 by stage from Poultney, which is seventy-two miles from Albany 
 by the Rutland and Washington Railroad ; elevation about three 
 thousand feet ; gas ; water on every floor from mountain springs ; 
 hose and fire extinguishers ; wide verandas, affording views of 
 Kellington, Pico, Spruce, Knob and other summits ; billiards and 
 bowling; grounds of thirty-five acres, on which are the "healing 
 springs ; " livery and boarding stables ; receives three hundred and 
 fifty guests. Address, The Montvert, Middletown Springs, Vt. 
 
 NEWPORT, VT. OWL'S HEAD HOTEL AND COTTAGES. On Lake 
 Memphremagog, at base of Owl's Head Mountain ; by rail to New- 
 port and steamer, twelve miles to hotel ; five hundred acres in 
 grounds, nearly a mile of lake front ; pure mountain air, with 
 aroma from forests of balsam-fir, cedar and birch ; house recon- 
 structed in 1890 ; large hall for indoor amusements ; water on 
 every floor ; bowling ; billiards ; no bar, but wine served at table ; 
 receives one hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $2 to $3 ; by 
 the week, $8 to $15. 
 
 LAKE DUNMORE MOUNTAIN SPRING HOTEL. Nine miles 
 from Brandon on the Central Vermont Railroad ; a beautiful lake 
 five miles in length, bordered by mountains ; a new house provided 
 with every modern appointment for the comfort of guests ; eleva- 
 tor ; electric bells in every room ; incandescent electric lights ; hot
 
 312 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 and cold baths ; rooms single or in suits ; perfect sanitary condi- 
 tions ; pure spring water ; beautiful walks and drives ; good livery ; 
 two hundred spacious and well furnished rooms ; six cottages 
 connected with hotel by covered walk, rented whole or in part. 
 Open in June. Prices : By the week, $12.50 to $22.50. Address* 
 Salisbury, Vt. 
 
 X. 
 
 WHITE MOUNTAINS MAINE LAKES. 
 
 The mountain land of New Ijampshire includes about twenty 
 peaks, ranging in height from four thousand feet to that of Mount 
 Washington, six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet. Gen- 
 eral elevation of the plateau, one thousand six hundred feet ; its 
 extent from south to north, forty-five miles ; from east to west, 
 thirty miles. The mountains are divided into two groups, the 
 western being known as the Franconia ; they form, however, but 
 one massif. The two points of departure for the mountains are 
 Wells River on the west, and North Conway on the east. These 
 two points are connected by a continuous line of railway formed by 
 the junction of the Lowell division of the Boston and Maine with 
 the Portland and Ogdensburg Railways, which intersect the moun- 
 tain region. Wells River may be most directly reached from New 
 York by way of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad 
 to Springfield, and thence up the Connecticut Valley ; from Boston 
 by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, which touches at Lake Win- 
 nepesaukee. North Conway is reached, via Boston, by the Boston 
 and Maine Railroad. 
 
 FRANCONIA NOTCH PROFILE HOUSK. A pass between the 
 Franconia and Pemigewasset ranges ; six miles by railway from 
 Bethlehem Junction ; hotel on an open plateau, at an elevation ot 
 one thousand nine hundred and seventy-four feet ; between two 
 lakes ; parlor 100 by 50 feet ; gas, elevator, steam heat and open 
 fires ; post and telegraph offices ; carriage excursions twice daily 
 through the Notch to the Old Man of the Mountain and other 
 places of special interest ; steam yacht on Echo Lake ; new ball- 
 room orchestra ; receives five hundred guests. Drawing-room 
 cars through from New York daily. Open June to October i. 
 Prices : By the day, $4.50 ; by the week, $21 to $28. Special rates 
 for families in July. Proprietors, Taft and Greenleaf.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 313 
 
 LITTLETON OAK HILL HOUSE. In the valley of the Ammo 
 noosuc, on the Boston and Lowell railroad ; elevation one thousand 
 two hundred feet ; two hundred feet above the village ; command- 
 ing complete views of the White and Franconia ranges ; steam 
 heat and open wood fires ; gas and electric lights and bells ; spring 
 water from the hills and perfect drainage ; receives two hundred 
 guests. Open June to November. Prices : By the day, $3 ; by 
 the week, for one, $10 to $18 ; special rates for June. Proprietors, 
 Farr & Jarvis, Littleton, N. H. 
 
 JACKSON WENTWORTH HALL AND COTTAGES. At the conflu- 
 ence of two mountain streams, three miles from Glen Station on the 
 Portland and Ogdensburg railroad ; old manorial style of archi- 
 tecture, with artistically designed cottages ; open fire-places and 
 steam heat, electric bells ; thorough drainage by a constant flow of 
 water from Jackson Falls, a picturesque cascade in full view from 
 the verandas ; ball-room, large parlor and dining-room ; kitchen in 
 a separate building ; reading-room ; smoking-room, spacious veran- 
 das ; fountains, tennis courts ; expensively constructed stables ; 
 noted Delmonico chef ; telegraph and telephone ; receives two hun- 
 dred and fifty guests. Open June i. Prices : By the day, $4 ; by 
 the week, $21 to $30 for single rooms, $35 to $60 for double rooms. 
 Address Jackson, Carroll County, N. H. 
 
 BETHLEHEM THE MAI-LEWOOD. One of-the most palatial of 
 mountain hotels ; ball-room with stage scenery, foot-lights, dress- 
 ing-rooms, etc.; full orchestra ; tennis courts, billiard-room, bowling- 
 alley ; steam heat and open fires ; water in abundance from springs 
 on the hills ; approved drainage system ; grounds of one thousand 
 two hundred acres, including stock and dairy farm of 600 acres ; 
 supplying the tables with fresh milk, butter and vegetables ; large 
 livery stables ; receives four hundred guests ; the Maplewood Cot- 
 tage is similarly appointed and receives one hundred guests; also 
 thirteen furnished cottages on the grounds, rented for the season, 
 with hotel board. Prices : By the day, $4 and upward. 
 
 BARRON'S WHITE MOUNTAIN HOUSES. This important 
 chain of hotels, in the heart of the mountain region, under one pro-
 
 314 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 prietorship, includes : The Fabyan House, at Fabyan's station ; 
 receives three hundred and fifty guests. The Mount Pleasant, half 
 a mile from Fabyan Junction and nearest to Mount Washington ; 
 receives two hundred and fifty guests. The Crawford, four or five 
 miles southeast of Fabyan Junction at the gate of the Notch ; re- 
 ceives three hundred and fifty guests. The Summit House, on the 
 summit of Mount Washington ; receives two hundred and fifty 
 guests. Prices : At the Crawford and Fabyan houses, $4.50 a day ; 
 $21 to $30 a week ; at the Mount Pleasant, $3 a day ; $14 to $21 a 
 week ; at the Summit House, $5 a day. Proprietors : Barron & 
 Merrill. 
 
 JACKSON IRON MOUNTAIN HOUSE. Half a mile from the vil- 
 lage of Jackson, and two and one-half miles from Glen station ; house 
 nearly new ; view from the verandas includes Mt. Washington, 
 Double Head, Tin and Thorn Mountains in the east, the famous 
 Moat to the south and the Iron range in the west ; large, well- 
 lighted rooms with closets ; spring water led in own pipes from 
 Iron Mountain ; heated by hot water system and open fires ; bath- 
 rooms and thorough drainage system ; separate dining-room for 
 nurses and children ; livery at moderate prices ; coaches to all 
 trains ; receives one hundred guests. Open June i till October 15. 
 Prices : By the week, $9 to $21 for single rooms, $16 to $26 for 
 double rooms ; special rates for June and after September 15. 
 
 GLEN HOUSE. At the eastern base of Mount Washington, on 
 a terrace looking out upon the five highest mountains of New Eng- 
 land, which are but three or four miles distant ; stage route to the 
 summit of Mount Washington (eight miles) ; elevation one thou- 
 sand six hundred and thirty-two feet ; tally-ho six-horse coaches 
 connect with trains at Glen station (fifteen miles) ; a new house 
 built a few years ago on the site of the older house ; supplied 
 throughout with spring water from the famous Glen Spring ; eleva- 
 tor, gas, and all the latest appointments ; open fire-places in every 
 suite of rooms as well as in the rotunda and all public apartments ; 
 orchestral music ; stables with one hundred horses and every kind 
 of vehicle for mountain service ; herd of fifty Jersey cows ; receives 
 three hundred and fifty guests. Open June to October i. Prices : 
 By the day, $4.50 ; by the week, $21 to $28 ; children, half rates. 
 Proprietor : C. R. Milliken, Portland, Me.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 315 
 
 MOOSEHEAD LAKE Mr. KINEO HOUSE. Source of the Ken- 
 nebec River, on the border of the great Maine woods, one thousand 
 and twenty-three feet above the sea ; thirty-five miles long, from 
 one to twelve in width ; a picturesque and substantial hotel, at the 
 base of Mt. Kineo ; a promontory, half way up the lake, commanding 
 a magnificent view ; gas, electric bells, steam heat, open fire-place, 
 steam elevator, etc. ; dining-room 100 x 51 feet ; verandas fifteen feet 
 wide ; birch canoes and guides supplied ; orchestral music. Open in 
 June. Prices : By the day, June, July and October, $2.50 to $3 ; 
 intermediate months, $3 to $4 ; special rates by the week or 
 month. 
 
 XI. 
 
 BERKSHIRE AND LITCHFIELD HILLS. 
 
 The hills and mountains of Berkshire County, in Western Massa- 
 chusetts, are the connecting links between the Green Mountains of 
 Vermont and the Highlands of the Hudson. They are now gentle 
 and sloping in their lines, now wild and broken, sheltering well- 
 watered and cultivated valleys, whose elm-shaded towns and villages 
 are famous for their beauty a region of lakes, mountain torrents, 
 glens, lovers' lanes, rocks and echoes. The Berkshire Hills are 
 intersected by the valley of the Housatonic, whose waters flow 
 southward, and the valley of the Hoosac, whose waters flow north- 
 ward, the Hoosac Mountains lying on the east and the Taghkonics 
 on the west of these connecting valleys. The highest points are 
 Greylock (three thousand five hundred feet) in the north, and 
 Mount Everett in the south. The valley towns are from five hun- 
 dred to one thousand two hundred feet above the sea, the hill towns 
 from one thousand two hundred to one thousand eight hundred. 
 The region is penetrated by the Housatonic Valley railroad, which 
 starts from Bridgeport, Conn., on the New York and New Haven 
 road, and terminates at Pittsfield, the county town of Berkshire. 
 From Pittsfield the Pittsfield and North Adams branch railroad 
 leads through Northern Berkshire to Williamstown, where the 
 Troy and Boston railroad crosses, by which latter road the tourist 
 from the west or east may enter this charming country. Western 
 Connecticut, especially Litchfield County, in the northwestern 
 part of the State, presents scenery of the same general character 
 as that which prevails in Berkshire. Accessible by the Housa- 
 tonic railroad from Bridgeport on the New York and New Haven 
 railroad ; by the Naugatuck railroad from Bridgeport, and by the 
 New Haven and Northampton railroad.
 
 316 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 PITTSFIELD MAPLEWOOD. Elevation of the town nearly one 
 thousand one hundred feet ; substantial brick building, recently 
 improved at an expenditure of $14,000; park-like grounds with 
 century-old maples and elms ; gas ; water from a mountain lake ; 
 new sanitary improvements ; new parlors, bathrooms and new 
 sleeping rooms ; "recreation room "with excellent dancing floor, 
 stage for theatricals, bowling alleys and a dark room for amateur 
 photography ; livery and stabling ; receives one hundred and fifty 
 guests. Open June to November T. Prices : By the day, $3; by 
 the week, $12 to $25. Proprietor ; Arthur W. Plumb, Pittsfield, 
 Mass. 
 
 PITTSFIELD THE SPRINGSIDE? A new house ; important ad- 
 ditions and improvements made since last year; elevation about 
 one thousand six hundred feet ; approached by an elm-shaded drive 
 from the main road ; extensive grounds with shaded walks, includ- 
 ing a small lake ; large rooms ; electric lights ; baths ; boarding and 
 livery stables ; telephonic connections ; receives seventy guests. 
 Prices : By the week, $12 to $25. 
 
 LENOX BELLEVUE HOTEL. A select and pleasantly situated 
 family hotel, the special feature of which is the table ; receives one 
 hundred guests. Open June i. Prices: By the day, $3; by the 
 week, $15 and upward. 
 
 STOCKBRIDGE STOCKBRIDGE HOUSE. One of the pleasantest 
 and most frequented villages in the Housatonic valley, between 
 Lenox on the north and Great Barrington on the south ; house re- 
 cently enlarged and improved ; receives one hundred to one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five guests. Prices : By the day, $3 ; by the 
 week, $15 to $21. Proprietor, Charles H. Plumb, Stockbridge, 
 Mass. 
 
 GREAT BARRINGTON COLLINS HOUSE. Pleasantly situ- 
 ated on a farm of sixty-five acres in the outskirts of the village, 
 surrounded by shade trees and supplied with spring water ; half a 
 mile from the station, post-office and free library ; large rooms, 
 comfortably furnished ; livery ; receives sixty guests. Prices : 
 By the day, $2.50; by the week, $10 to $15. Proprietor, George A. 
 Tuller.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 317 
 
 GREAT HARRINGTON THE BERKSHIRE INN. A year-round 
 resort. Three and one-half hours from New York ; situated on the 
 main street, which is shaded by grand old-time elms and bordered 
 by cottages and villas amid beautifully ornamented grounds ; pure 
 mountain air ; a well-built stone house, provided with spring water, 
 electric lights, gas, baths, etc. ; location amid high hills and peculiar 
 atmospheric conditions render out-door exercise enjoyable ; gener- 
 ous provision for winter comfort indoors with sun parlors, steam 
 and open fires ; perfect sanitary arrangements ; a well-equipped 
 livery stable, affording every facility for the enjoyment of the 
 many delighful drives which centre at this beautiful village. Pro- 
 prietor, C. Ticknor, Great Barrington, Mass. 
 
 XII. 
 
 NEW JERSEY HIGHLANDS. 
 
 The mountain ranges of New Jersey, extending over all that part 
 of the State lying northward of the City of New York, are the 
 prolongation of the Highlands of the Hudson. They nowhere at- 
 tain a height greater than one thousand two hundred feet, but are 
 broken up into picturesque groupings, intersected with wild water- 
 courses and interspersed with lakes. The most important eleva- 
 tion is Schooley's Mountain, a ridge of considerable extent, acces- 
 sible by the Delaware and Lackawanna railroad to Hackettstown 
 (sixty- two miles), thence by a stage drive of about three miles ; 
 also by the New Jersey Central to German Valley, thence by a 
 stage route of two and one-half miles. Near the summit is a chaly- 
 beate spring, which has an old established reputation for efficacy 
 in dyspeptic and calculous affections. The views include neigh- 
 boring and far distant summits, and the rambles and drives are 
 full of interest. On the southern border of the New Jersey High- 
 lands is a pleasant hill country, traversed by the New Jersey Cen- 
 tral railroad (Liberty street), which offers many delightful places 
 of summer residence. 
 
 LAKE HOPATCONG HOTEL BRESLIN. In the Brookland 
 Mountains, fifty miles from New York, two and one-half miles from 
 Drakesville, on the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad, 
 or accessible by boat from Hopatcong station ; time from New 
 York, one hour and fifty minutes ; lake twelve miles long and one
 
 318 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 to three miles wide, of irregular outline, dotted with islands and 
 bordered in places by bold mountain declivities ; elevation one 
 thousand two hundred feet ; a new and large hotel in the centre of 
 Mount Arlington Park, one hundred and fifty-five feet above the 
 lake, offering from its verandas, eight hundred feet in length, 
 varied and beautiful views ; elevator, electric bells, steam heat, 
 open fireplaces, bath-rooms on every floor ; children's play-room and 
 dining-room ; boats and steam launches ; tennis lawns ; livery and 
 boarding stables. Prices : By the day, $5 ; by the week, $25 to 
 $28. Manager, R. H. Stearns ; New York address, 265 Broadway. 
 
 SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN ^EATH HOUSE. A number of 
 distinct buildings, one of which is reserved for families, another for 
 adults, accommodating in all three hundred and fifty guests ; sani- 
 tary arrangements vouched for by scientific authorities ; music for 
 the season, the music-room being 180 feet long by 40 wide ; thirty 
 acres in wooded lawns, encircled by a drive ; pure water ; perfect 
 drainage ; livery and private stables ; twenty trained saddle horses, 
 ponies for children, and a professional riding master ; telegraph 
 and telephone. Open early in June. Prices : By the day, $2.50 ; 
 by the week, $12, $14 and $16 for single rooms, $24, $28 and $32 
 for double rooms ; nurses and children, $7 ; furnished cottages to 
 let. Proprietor, J. Warren Coleman. Manager, William E. Cole- 
 man, Schooley's Mountain, Morris county, N. J,; New York office, 
 room 87, Evening Post Building. 
 
 BERNARDSVILLE HOTEL SOMERSET. In the Highlands of 
 Somerset county, where the Passaic and Raritan Rivers have their 
 source ; thirty-five miles from New York by the Passaic and Dela- 
 ware branch of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad ; 
 elevation one thousand feet ; scenery full of varied beauty ; large 
 rooms, good beds ; electric bells, billiard tables and bowling alleys ; 
 farm of one thousand acres ; fruits and vegetables from the hotel 
 gardens ; choicest dairy supplies, a registered herd of fifty Jersey 
 cows belonging to the hotel ; superior stabling ; stage meets trains ; 
 receives two hundred guests. Open in June. Prices : By the 
 week, $20 to $25. Address, Bernardsville, Somerset county, N. J. 
 
 MORRISTOWN WALTON COTTAGE. At " Iron Spring Farm," a 
 mile and a half from the village ; pleasantly situated, with comfort-
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 319 
 
 able home-like appointments ; gas, pure spring water, thorough 
 drainage ; stabling for forty horses ; supplies of fresh vegetables, 
 fruit and milk from the farm ; beautiful drives and fishing in lake ; 
 receives seventy guests. Open all the year. Prices : By the 
 week, for one, $12 to $15 ; for two, $25 to $30 ; children, half price. 
 Address, L. W. Walton, box 442, Morristown, N. J. 
 
 MORRISTOWN PARK HOUSE. Pleasantly situated, facing the 
 park, five minutes walk from the station ; a family hotel with 
 accommodations for fifty or sixty guests ; three acres of ground ; 
 pure spring water. Prices: By the week, $10 to $18. Address, 
 Park House, Morristown, N. J. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 DELAWARE HIGHLANDS. 
 
 The so-called Delaware Highlands are an extension of the Shaw- 
 angunk Mountains, and take their name from the Delaware River, 
 which intersects them obliquely. The river enters at Port Jervis 
 and escapes at the Water Gap, a narrow gorge walled by rocky 
 precipices one thousand six hundred feet in height. The distance 
 from Port Jervis to the Water Gap is forty miles. The highlands 
 include parts of Pike and Monroe counties, Pennsylvania, and of 
 Sussex and Warren counties, New Jersey. It is a region where 
 lovers of mountain rambling may find glens, caves, lakes, water- 
 falls, in abundance, and which is much frequented by anglers and 
 sportsmen. Accessible by the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western 
 (Barclay and Christopher streets) to the Water Gap and Strouds- 
 burg, in three and a half hours ; and by the New York and Erie 
 (Chambers street) to Port Jervis and Lackawaxen, whence stage 
 routes to various resorts. 
 
 WATER GAP WATER GAP HOUSE. Stands on a wooded height 
 four hundred feet above the river, commanding one of the finest 
 views of the Gap, and overlooking the country for miles in all 
 directions ; three hours from New York by the Delaware, Lacka- 
 wanna and Western Railroad ; large rooms with gas and water 
 from mountain springs ; electric bells ; wide verandas, six hundred
 
 320 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 and seventy feet in length ; billiards, boating, bathing, fishing, 
 mountain rambles and drives. Prices: By the day, $3.50 to $4; 
 by the week, June and October, $16 ; July, August and September, 
 $18. Proprietor, L. W. Brodhead, Delaware Water Gap, Pa. 
 
 WATER GAP KITTATINNY HOUSE. On a plateau, one hun- 
 dred and seventy-five feet above the river, on the Pennsylvania side, 
 commanding a view of the river and the surrounding hills ; ten 
 minutes from the station ; enlarged and refurnished ; elevator and 
 all modern improvements ; rooms in suites with private baths and 
 parlors; heated by steam and vrood^ires; verandas eight hundred 
 feet in length ; grounds of one hundred and fifty acres, with shaded 
 walks ; receives four hundred guests. Open June i to December. 
 Prices : By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, for single rooms, $16 
 and upward ; for double rooms, $30 and upward. Proprietors, W. 
 A. Brodhead & Sons, Delaware Water Gap, Pa. 
 
 MILFORD BLUFF HOUSE. Seven miles from Port Jervis, on a 
 bluff overlooking Delaware River ; within half a mile of the falls of 
 the Sawkill, twenty to one hundred feet in height ; a famous .glen 
 within three minutes' walk of the house ; steps and winding walks 
 down the bluff to the Delaware, where there are boats ; fishing and 
 hunting ; hot and cold water baths ; wide verandas ; billiards ; 
 no bar ; receives one hundred and twenty-five guests. Prices : 
 By the day, $2.50; special arrangements by the week or month. 
 Proprietor, H. B. Wells, Milford, Pike county, Pa. 
 
 DINGMAN'S FERRY HIGH FALLS HOTEL. Two and a half 
 hours' drive by stage from Port Jervis on the Erie Railroad ; four 
 and a half hours by mail coach from Stroudsburg on the Delaware, 
 Lackawanna and Western ; two hours by hotel carriage, notice 
 given, from Brancheville on Morris and Essex, elevation one thou- 
 sand two hundred feet ; cascades, caves, glens, etc., within easy 
 walking distance of the house ; water from mountain springs ; 
 livery at country prices ; rowing and bathing ; veranda two hun- 
 dred and fifty feet long ; receives two hundred guests. Open April 
 i to December i. Prices: By the day, $2.50; by the week, $10: 
 special rates for the season. Proprietor, Philip Fulmer, M. D., 
 Dingman's Ferry, Pike county, Pa.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 821 
 
 XIV. 
 
 APPALACHIAN REGION OF PENNSYLVANIA, 
 
 MARYLAND, WEST VIRGINIA AND 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 The Appalachian Mountain sytem has a breadth in Pennsylvania 
 of about one hundred miles, and is bordered on the east by the 
 Blue Ridge, and on the west by the Alleghany range. The Penn- 
 sylvania Railroad penetrates the Blue Ridge at Harrisburg, and 
 following for one hundred and seventeen miles the windings of 
 the Juniata, climbs the Alleghanies at Altoona. The characteristic 
 feature of this mountain system in its prolongation through West 
 Virginia is its richness in mineral springs, many of which have 
 long been important places of resort for their health-giving waters 
 and picturesque surroundings ; the elevation, one thousand five 
 hundred to two thousand five hundred feet, ensures coolness and 
 purity of air even in midsummer. In North Carolina the Appa- 
 lachian system has a breadth of about fifty miles, and is crossed by 
 transverse chains which throw up the loftiest summits of the Atlan- 
 tic slope. Among these is Mount Mitchell, formerly known as the 
 Black Dome (six thousand seven hundred and ten feet). Asheville, 
 a town of several thousand inhabitants (elevation two thousand 
 two hundred and fifty feet), is the point of departure for excursions 
 in this sublime mountain land ; it is reached in twenty-four hours 
 from New York by the Piedmont Air Line (Pennsylvania station. 
 Jersey City), connecting at Salisbury with the Western North 
 Carolina Railroad. Average temperature in July, 71.9. 
 
 MINNEQUA SPRINGS, PA. MI.N.NKO.UA HOUSE. In a moun- 
 tain glen, one thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the sea, 
 surrounded by rugged heights ; springs of abundant flow and re- 
 markable curative properties ; accessible via Pennsylvania Railroad 
 to Harrisburg, thence by Northern Central ; in a park of one hun- 
 dred acres ; newly erected house, with elevator and all modern ap- 
 pointments ; orchestral music ; receives five hundred guests. Open 
 June to November. 
 
 GLEN SUMMIT, PA. GLEN SUMMIT HOTEL. On the Nescopec, 
 a mountain ridge dividing the Wyoming and Lehigh valleys ; five 
 hours from New York by Lehigh Valley road, Liberty street ; ele-
 
 322 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 vation two thousand feet, commanding a view one hundred miles 
 in extent over a wild mountainous region ; recently enlarged and 
 hydraulic elevator added ; gas, steam heat, electric bells ; water on 
 every floor from the Indian Sand spring ; baths ; grounds of six 
 hundred acres laid out in walks and drives ; receives two hundred 
 guests. Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $15 to $20. Address 
 Glen Summit, Luzerne County, Pa. 
 
 HIGHLAND LAKE, PA. ESSICK Mr. HOME. Five miles by 
 stage from Picture Rocks, a station on the Williamsport and North 
 Branch Railroad, sixteen miles from Williamsport, Pa., on a spur of 
 the Alleghanies, at an elevation of two thousand feet ; grounds of 
 two hundred and fifty acres surrounded by virgin forests ; a deer 
 park with fawns and other native animals ; adjacent lake for bathing 
 and boating ; new house ; wide verandas, large bedchambers fur- 
 nished in hard wood and supplied with hair spring mattresses; 
 water from flowing springs ; thorough sanitary arrangements ; 
 daily parlor and lawn concerts by a select orchestra ; mails twice 
 daily, telephone connections. Open June i to October i. Proprie- 
 tor, H. M. Essick, Picture Rocks, Lycoming County, Pa. 
 
 WERNERSVILLE, PA. GRAND VIEW HOUSE. Nine miles 
 from Reading ; on South Mountain, a spur of the Blue range, a re- 
 gion known for salubrity of climate, pure water and picturesque 
 scenery ; two and one-fourth hours from Philadelphia ; four and 
 one-fourth hours from New York by the Central Railroad of New 
 Jersey ; hotel in a tract of about four hundred acres of evergreen 
 and forest trees, laid out in parks and rambles ; a massive struc- 
 ture, built of mountain stone, lined on the inside to protect from 
 dampness ; one hundred and thirty-five feet long and four stories 
 high ; also a large three story cottage, about ninety feet from the 
 main building, used exclusively as a dormitory, heated by steam 
 and open grates. All important appliances for the successful 
 treatment of disease, massage, electricity ; Turkish, vapor and other 
 baths ; oxygen inhalations, etc. Open all the year. Prices : 
 By the week, $10 to $25. Proprietors : Drs. Wenrich & Deppen. 
 
 POCONO MOUNTAIN HOUSE. On one of the highest points 
 of the Pocono Mountains, one-third of a mile from Fork's Station on 
 the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad ; elevation, two
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 323 
 
 thousand two hundred ; commanding a view of the Delaware Valley 
 above and below the Water Gap ; surrounded by a beautiful grove, 
 with numerous springs of cold water ; hotel recently enlarged ; elec- 
 tric bells ; hot and cold baths ; large piazzas at every story ; perfect 
 drainage ; table supplied from dairy and truck farm and from New 
 York and Philadelphia markets ; two cottages in connection with 
 the house ; boarding and livery stables ; trout fishing and gunning ; 
 stage meets all trains ; receives three hundred guests. Open May 
 to November. Prices : By the day, $3 ; by the week, $17.50 and 
 upwards for single ; $30 for double rooms. Special rates for June 
 and September. Proprietors, E. E. Hooker & Son, Mount Pocono, 
 Monroe County, Pa. 
 
 THE GLADES, MD. DEER PARK AND OAKLAND. A series of 
 openings along the upper waters of the Youghiogheny river on 
 the plateau summit of the Alleghanies of Maryland ; elevation 
 about three thousand feet ; two hundred and forty miles west of 
 Baltimore on the main line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, all 
 trains of which stop at bqth the hotels above named, which are six 
 miles apart, the Deer Park Hotel consisting of three large and 
 picturesque buildings connected by covered passageways ; elabor- 
 ately appointed and elegantly furnished ; abundance of pure spring 
 water ; perfect drainage system ; at Deer Park a large bath- 
 house with swimming pool and smaller baths, the water main- 
 tained at an equal temperature by steam heat ; billiards and bowl- 
 ing ; electric lights in the hotels and on the grounds ; orchestral 
 music morning and evening at both houses ; completely appointed 
 livery ; beautiful drives over well-made roads ; a number of cot- 
 tages rented separately, with hotel service ; resident physicians ; 
 railway station on the grounds of each house ; buffet, parlor and 
 sleeping cars of elegant appointments, with attentive service en 
 route. Prices : By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $15 to $21 ; by the 
 month, $60, $75 and $90. Manager, George D. DeShields, Deer 
 Park or Oakland, Garrett County, Md.; address Manager Baltimore 
 and Ohio Hotels, Cumberland, Md. 
 
 CAPON SPRINGS AND BATHS, VA. On the western slope of 
 the great North Mountains four miles from the base and two miles 
 from the summit, a delightful drive of fifteen miles from Capon 
 station on the Harper's Ferry and Valley branch of the Baltimore 
 and Ohio Railroad ; elevation, one thousand nine hundred ; aver-
 
 324 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 age summer temperature, sixty-five degrees ; fishing and boating 
 in Capon river and lake ; horseback ascent to Eagle's rock and 
 other summits, affording a magnificent coup-d'oeil ; bathing estab- 
 lishment two hundred and eighty feet in length, including swim- 
 ming pool ninety feet by forty-eight, and various kinds of baths ; 
 orchestral music ; ball-room eighty by forty feet ; music-room 
 with stage for theatricals ; receives nine hundred guests. Open 
 June to October. Prices: By the day, $2.50 to $2.75; by the 
 week, $11.25 to $17.50; children at half rates. Proprietor : W. H. 
 Sale, Capon Springs, W. Va. 
 
 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS-CENTRAL HOTEL. On the line 
 of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, on the western slope of the 
 Alleghanies, at an elevation of two thousand feet and surrounded 
 by mountain heights ; accessible from New York via the Pennsyl- 
 vania Railroad (Pullman cars without change) ; hotel and one 
 hundred cottages, receiving in all two thousand guests ; fifty acres 
 in lawns ; shooting gallery, billiard and bowling halls ; orchestral 
 music ; waters of the springs celebrated for their therapeutic 
 value ; elaborate bathing facilities ; no malaria, no mosquitoes. 
 Prices : By the day, $3.50; by the week, $21 ; by the month, $75. 
 Superintendent : B. F. Eakle, White Sulphur Springs, Greenbrier 
 County, West Virginia. 
 
 XV. 
 
 NEW JERSEY SHORE. 
 
 The ocean shore of New Jersey, extending from Sandy Hook to 
 Cape May, is one hundred and twenty-seven miles in length and is 
 dotted all along with frequented resorts, each having its peculiar 
 attractions. With these Staten Island may be conveniently and 
 naturally grouped. The distances from Sandy Hook are as fol- 
 lows : Highlands of Navesink (four miles) ; Bellevue (five miles) ; 
 Seabright and Normandie (six miles) ; Oceanic (seven miles) ; Mon- 
 mouth Beach (eight miles) ; Long Branch (ten miles) ; Elberon 
 (twelve miles) ; Deal (fourteen miles) ; Asbury Park and Ocean 
 Grove (sixteen miles) ; Key East (seventeen miles) ; Ocean Beach 
 (eighteen miles) ; Spring Lake (twenty miles) ; Sea Girt (twenty- 
 two miles) ; Brielle (twenty-three miles) ; Manasquan, Point Pleas- 
 ant, St. Elmo and Bay Head (twenty-five miles) ; Tom's River and 
 Berkeley (thirty-seven miles) : Tuckerton. Beach Haven, Atlantic
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 325 
 
 City (one hundred miles), and Cape May (one hundred and thirty 
 miles.) The New Jersey shore is accessible as far as Seaside Park 
 by the New Jersey Central (Liberty street), or by the Sandy Hook 
 division of the New Jersey Central, steamers leaving from Liberty 
 street and connecting, after a sail of twenty miles down New York 
 bay, with trains at Atlantic Highlands; or by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
 road (Cortlandt and Desbrosses streets) to Long Branch and resorts 
 south of Long Branch. Places between Seaside Park and Atlantic 
 City are accessible by the Tom's River and Tuckerton branches of 
 the New Jersey Central and by branches of the Pennsylvania. 
 Atlantic City and Cape May are reached by the Pennsylvania road. 
 
 STATEN ISLAND PAVILION HOTEL. At New Brighton, on 
 New York Bay, thirty minutes from the -Battery terminus of the 
 elevated roads ; boats every twenty minutes (fare ten cents) ; on a 
 bluff three minutes' walk from landing ; faced by lofty porticos, 
 commanding a complete view of the bay, the view from the cupola 
 extending to the open sea on the south, and the palisades of the 
 Hudson on the north ; elevator, electric bells, bath-rooms on every 
 floor ; bowling-alley, billiard room, tennis court, children's play- 
 room ; spacious dining and ball-room with musicians' gallery, music 
 at dinner ; livery and private stables ; receives three hundred and 
 fifty guests. Open April to November. Address New Brighton, 
 Staten Island. 
 
 STATEN ISLAND HOTEL CASTLETON. On Brighton Heights, 
 overlooking the Narrows and New York bay ; delightful summer 
 residence ; only thirty minutes from Battery ; elegantly decorated 
 and furnished throughout ; elevator, electric light, and all modern 
 improvements ; spacious verandas. Open all the year. Proprietor, 
 James H. Rodgers, New Brighton, Staten Island. 
 
 MONMOUTH PARK MONMOUTH PARK HOTEL. A new hotel, 
 fronting on the Shrewsbury river ; the grounds extending one mile 
 along the shore ; a substantially built and beautiful house with 
 large rooms, and all the latest appointments ; dining halls in an 
 annex ; electric bells ; artesian water. 
 
 LONG BRANCH UNITED STATES HOTEL. A step from the 
 Central Railroad station and near the pier ; faces the sea with 
 magnificent lawns intervening : verandas and balconies to each
 
 326 'SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 floor ; rooms, single and en suite, for four hundred guests ; running 
 water on each floor ; scientific plumbing and drainage. Prices : 
 By the day. $3 to $3.50 ; moderate rates to families for the season. 
 Proprietor, J. C. Van Cleaf, who may be seen at the Mansion 
 House, Brooklyn Heights, of which he is one of the proprietors. 
 
 LONG BRANCH THE SCARBORO. At the corner of Ocean and 
 Bath avenues, one hundred and fifty feet from the bluff, every 
 room commanding a full view of the ocean ; all the modern appoint- 
 ments for convenience, comfort and sanitation ; large tennis lawn 
 adjoining the house ; best surf-bathing in front ; stables connected 
 by telephone with the hotel ; musrc morning and evening ; receives 
 two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : By the day, $4 to $5 ; by 
 the week, $21 and upward. 
 
 LONG BRANCH WEST END AND COTTAGES. On the bluff 
 within two hundred feet of the beach, commanding an uninterrupted 
 view of the ocean ; elevators and all the latest appointments ; 
 extensive grounds, with luxurious seaside cottages connected by 
 telephone ; separate amusement hall, 120x80 feet, with ball-room, 
 stage, ladies' billiard and reading-rooms, bowling-alleys, etc. ; sea 
 view pavilion connected with hotel by an elevated bridge ; Neyer's 
 orchestra ; Sunday night concerts ; bathing-houses, warm sea 
 baths at all hours ; well equipped livery and boarding stables ; re- 
 ceives one thousand guests ; cottages and restaurant will open 
 June ii. Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $25 and upwards. 
 Proprietors, D. M. and W. E. Hildreth ; New York office, Metro- 
 politan Hotel. 
 
 LONG BRANCH HOWLAND HOTEL. Adjoining the grounds of 
 the West End ; frequented by Philadelphia and New York families 
 of social prominence ; newly furnished and renovated throughout ; 
 complete and beautiful in its appointments; thorough sanitary 
 arrangements ; spacious lawns ; select orchestra ; choice cuisine ; 
 receives four hundred and fifty guests. Prices : By the day, $4.50 ; 
 by the week, $25 ; special rates for the season. 
 
 ELBERON THE ELBERON. A few minutes' walk from Elberon 
 station, about two miles south of the West End, Long Branch ; pic- 
 turesque in architecture, ivy-covered, facing the ocean ; complete
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 327 
 
 in appointments ; a number of Queen Anne cottages dispersed, 
 amid the grounds, connected by telegraph with the main bunding 
 the occupants being served at home or at the hotel table ; spacious 
 lawns for tennis, archery, etc. 
 
 POINT PLEASANT BEACH. RESORT HOUSE. On Manas' 
 quan Bay, affording one of the finest and safest beaches on the 
 coast ; combination of country and seashore ; extensive woods and 
 fields in vicinity ; large, well-ventilated rooms, with ocean and 
 shore view of forty miles ; modern improvements ; no malaria ; 
 grounds for tennis, croquet and archery ; rowing, sailing, fishing ; 
 surf and still water bathing ; orchestra ; choice cuisine ; receives 
 three hundred guests. Address Point Pleasant Beach, N. J. 
 
 SPRING LAKE WILBURTON-BY-THE-SEA. Within fifty yards 
 of the surf, with unobstructed view of the ocean ; no marsh lands ; 
 the beach drive, extending for miles along the coast, passes in front 
 of the house ; coaches meet every train ; sanitary arrangements 
 and ventilation according to the most approved methods ; pure 
 water supply ; dining-room and ordinary greatly enlarged ; gas ; 
 fire-extinguishing apparatus for each floor ; electric bells ; bathing, 
 driving, fishing and boating on the lakes, in Squan river and Bar- 
 negat bay. Open from June to October. Prices : by the day, 
 single rooms, $4 ; double rooms, $7 ; by the week, for one person, 
 $15 to $28 ; . for two persons, $25 to $40. Address Spring Lake 
 Beach, N. J. 
 
 SPRING LAKE BEACH MONMOUTH HOUSE. On a plateau 
 between the ocean and a beautiful fresh water lake several acres in 
 extent ; luxurious in its appointments ; thoroughly renovated since 
 last season ; an artesian well has been sunk seven hundred and 
 fifty feet, giving an abundant supply of pure water, and all the 
 modern sanitary appliances have been introduced ; gas, electric 
 bells, elevator, hot and cold salt and fresh water baths ; safe bath- 
 ing beach ; music hall, with daily orchestral performances ; bil- 
 liards and bowling ; livery and private stabling ; receives five hun- 
 dred guests. Proprietor, L. U. Maltby, Spring Lake Beach, N. 
 J., or Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia. 
 
 SPRING LAKE THE CARLETON. Two hundred feet from the 
 beach, with full ocean and lake view ; thorough sanitary arrange-
 
 328 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 ments, electric bells, gas and elevator; pure water from a new 
 
 artesian well ; gas introduced into the annex, which is now as desir- 
 
 " able as the main house ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
 
 ASBURY PARK COLEMAN HOUSE. Enlarged by the erection 
 of a brick building containing seventy guest chambers and a dining 
 hall sixty by eighty feet, with full ocean view ; grounds of two and 
 one-fourth acres, facing the ocean on the east and Wesley Lake 
 on the south ; separate building, with bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms 
 and ball-room, connected with the hotel by a covered bridge ; gas 
 and electric lights ; artesian well four hundred and sixty-two feet 
 in depth ; new bath-rooms and sarntary appliances throughout ; full 
 orchestra ; good livery service and well-appointed stables for 
 private teams ; receives three hundred guests. Prices : By the 
 day, $4 and upward ; special rates by the week. Address Coleman 
 House, Asbury Park, N. J. 
 
 ASBURY PARK WEST END HOTEL. Adjacent to the beach, 
 at Asbury avenue and Kingsley street, commanding the ocean 
 view ; five story building with all the modern improvements ; 
 rooms large and well furnished ; wide verandas and passages ; 
 electric lights and bells, orchestra; billiard parlor ; receives four 
 hundred guests. 
 
 ASBURY PARK HOTEL BRUNSWICK. Facing the ocean, with 
 spacious lawn in front ; additions made last year have doubled the 
 capacity of the house and greatly improved its appearance and its 
 conveniences ; new dining-room looking out upon the ocean ; large 
 rooms, single and in suites, with ocean view ; gas, electric bells ; 
 thorough sanitary arrangements ; saddle horses, carriages and 
 boats ; receives four hundred guests. Open from April i to Sep- 
 tember i. Address Morgan & Parsons, Asbury Park, N. J. 
 
 AVON-BY-THE-SEA HOTEL OXFORD. Fronts on the ocean 
 and Shark river, with varied view of sea, bay and river and 
 inland ; cheerful rooms ; perfect sanitary arrangements ; artesian 
 water ; fishing, crabbing, sailing ; surf and still water bathing ; 
 groves near at hand ; lawn tennis courts and croquet grounds ; 
 carriages at a moment's notice ; pleasant drives ; receives one 
 hundred and fifty guests. Prices ; By the day, $3.50.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 329 
 
 DEAL BEACH HATHAWAY HOUSE. Three miles south of 
 Long Branch, within five minutes' walk of the ocean and five 
 minutes' drive from the station ; stage meets all the trains ; com- 
 modious, homelike ; good stabling ; latest sanitary improvements ; 
 shaded grounds ; pleasant country surroundings ; fruits and vege- 
 tables from the hotel farm ; safe beach, with surf bathing ; receives 
 two hundred guests. Open from June to October. Prices : By 
 the day, $2 to $3 ; by the week, $12 to $15. 
 
 SEA GIRT THE BEACH HOUSE. The old Stockton mansion, 
 with extensive additions, adapting it to hotel uses ; retains many 
 of the old-time features, such as the spacious hearths and elaborate 
 chimney pieces. A unique characteristic of the new house is the 
 great veranda which overhangs the water and is built to simulate 
 a ship's deck. Hot and cold salt water baths on every floor ; steam 
 heat, gas, electric bells, etc. Proprietor, Uriah Welch, for many 
 years proprietor of the St. Nicholas Hotel, New York ; indeed Mr. 
 Welch gave the St. Nicholas its national reputation. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY, which is an attractive summer as well as 
 fashionable winter resort, will be found under the latter head, 
 further on. 
 
 CAPE MAY CONGRESS HALL. One ot the largest hotels on 
 the coast, luxurious in its appointments ; every modern conveni- 
 ence ; new plumbing has been introduced, under government 
 inspection, conforming to the latest requirements of sanitary 
 science ; music by Hessler's orchestra ; receives seven hundred and 
 fifty guests. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 LONG ISLAND. 
 
 The characteristic feature of the south coast of Long Island is 
 the long line of insular or peninsular strips of sand, without vegeta- 
 tion, which are thrown out as bulwarks against the sea, enclosing 
 bays from two to eight miles wide. These beaches, named in order 
 from the west end, are : Coney Island, Manhattan Beach, Rocka- 
 way Beach (enclosing Jamaica bay), Long Beach (facing Hempstead
 
 330 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 bay), Jones Beach (facing South Oyster bay), Oak Island and Great 
 South Beach (enclosiug the Great South bay, East bay and Shinne- 
 
 cock bay). The northern part of Long Island for a considerable 
 
 distance from New York presents a surface of wooded hills, and 
 its shore line is cut up by deeply-receding bays separated by bold 
 headlands and irregular peninsulas. These bays in order from the 
 west are : Flushing bay, Little Neck bay, Cow bay, Hempstead 
 harbor, Oyster bay, Huntington bay, Smithtown bay, beyond 
 which the coast presents a comparatively unbroken line to Orient 
 
 Point, its eastern extremity. The eastern part of the island 
 
 divides into two irregular shaped arms enclosing Peconic bay and 
 Gardiner's bay, in which lies Shelter Island. The Long Island 
 resorts are all accessible by the vaj-ious lines and branches of the 
 Long Island Railroad (James' Slip and East Thirty-fourth street) , 
 the eastern terminus of which is at Greenport, ninety-four miles 
 from New York. Greenport is also reached by steamers from New 
 York, New London, Hartford and Saybrook. For points on the 
 Sound near the city the steamer Idlewild leaves Peck Slip at 4 P. M. 
 and Thirty-first street at 4.15. The Montauk and New York steam- 
 boats (Beekman street, East river) run to Orient Point, Greenport, 
 Shelter Island and Sag Harbor. 
 
 FAR ROCKAWAY UNITED STATES HOTEL. Forty-five min- 
 utes from the City Hall, New York, by Wall street and Thirty- 
 fourth street ferries ; stands on a high bluff overlooking the ocean ; 
 eleven acres of ground ; sea front of one thousand two hundred 
 feet ; newly painted, decorated and furnished ; latest sanitary im- 
 provements introduced under the superintendence of an expert 
 sanitary engineer ; drinking water from the Brooklyn water works, 
 its purity certified to by the Board of Health ; still water and surf 
 bathing ; cuisine under an experienced chef ; electric light and 
 bells ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : By the day, 
 $3; by the week, $15 to $20. Proprietor, John J. Rogers, a well- 
 known restaurateur at 6 Park Place, New York. 
 
 SHELTER ISLAND MANHANSET HOUSE. A house of pictu- 
 resque architecture, encircled with wide verandas ; large rooms, 
 single and in suites ; richly furnished ; thorough drainage system ; 
 steam heat ; elaborate fire-extinguishing apparatus ; electric lights 
 and gas ; ample bath-houses ; bowling and billiards ; sail and row 
 boats ; orchestra music ; excellent livery and stabling, with well-
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 331 
 
 trained saddle-horses ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. 
 Cozy and comfortable cottages. June 15 to September 15. 
 Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $21 and upward ; special 
 rates for two or more weeks. Proprietors, Manhanset Improve- 
 ment Co., H. D. W. Lawson, Manager. The house has been en- 
 larged and improved for the season of 1893. 
 
 SHELTER ISLAND PROSPECT HOUSE. Stands on a hillside 
 about forty feet above the water, its grounds sloping to the beach ; 
 verandas three hundred feet in length ; electric lights in all bed- 
 rooms; separate building with theatrical stage, ball-room, etc.; 
 music for the season ; livery and stabling ; approved sewerage 
 system ; spring of pure water on grounds ; archery, lawn tennis. 
 Prices : By the day, $3.50 and $4. Special terms for the season. 
 Address Shelter Island Heights, Suffolk County, N. Y. 
 
 SHELTER ISLAND BAY VIEW HOUSE. Rebuilt, enlarged 
 and newly furnished ; electric bells throughout ; large dining-room 
 with windows on four sides ; sanitary plumbing and perfect 
 drainage ; hot' and cold salt and fresh water baths ; tennis court 
 and ball grounds; one hundred bathing houses line the shore, 
 which may be rented by the week or season ; bowling alleys for 
 ladies and gentlemen ; lawn tennis ; billiard hall ; an annex cottage 
 of fourteen rooms, facing the bay, well adapted for families ; 
 saddle-horses and experienced drivers ; receives one hundred 
 guests. Open June i to September 15. Prices : By the day, $2.50 
 to $3 ; by the week, $15 to $21 ; two persons in one room, $25 to $33. 
 
 PINE PARK THE BRENTWOOD AND THE AUSTRAL. A hand- 
 some new hotel in the central part of Long Island, forty-one miles 
 from New York by the main line of the Long Island Railroad ; ten 
 minutes' walk from station ; surrounded by a park laid out by the 
 landscape gardeners, Olmstead and Vaux ; from this park extend 
 ten miles westward and thirty-five miles eastward a belt eight miles 
 in width of forests of pine, spruce and balsam ; soil dry and sandy ; 
 the Austral was completed in 1890 ; plumbing of the latest approved 
 method ; Otis elevator, steam heat, and open fires ; music room, 
 bowling alleys, billiard and smoking rooms ; private dining-rooms ; 
 roof promenade ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. The 
 Brentwood, originally a private residence, modeled after a French 
 chateau, contains the furniture, paintings and statuary of its origi-
 
 832 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 nal owner ; receives fifty guests ; thoroughly equipped livery and 
 private stabling. Both houses open all the year. Proprietors, 
 The Austral Company. 
 
 PATCHOGUE OCEAN AVENUE HOTEL. On the Great South 
 bay, fifty-four miles from Long Island City ; large parlors, smoking 
 and reading-rooms ; lighted by gas ; grounds illuminated by elec- 
 tricity ; wide verandas and plenty of shade, a grove extending 
 almost to the water's edge ; plank walk to the bath houses ; daily 
 trips across the bay to the beaches ; livery and boarding stables ; 
 hotel stages meet trains ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
 Cottages to let with or without board. Open May i until October. 
 Prices : By the day, $2.50 to $3 ; By the week, $roto $15. Address 
 Patchogue, Long Island, N. Y. 
 
 PATCHOGUE LAUREL HOUSE. Quarter of a mile from the 
 Great South Bay, with full open view of the bay ; one and one- 
 half hours from New York ; renovated and improved for the 
 season ; electric lights and bells and all latest appointments intro- 
 duced ; running water and toilet rooms on every floor ; perfect 
 drainage ; bowling alley and billiard rooms in separate building ; 
 adjacent pine grove with grounds for tennis, archery, etc. ; commo- 
 dious carriage house and stables ; orchestral music for the season. 
 Opens early in June. 
 
 WEST HAMPTON THE ONECK HOUSE. One of the oldest 
 and best known houses on Long Island, located near the Great 
 South Bay ; quiet, home-like atmosphere in the house ; lawn for 
 tennis and croquet with abundant shade ; verandas on south and 
 west sides ; large dancing hall ; good livery and stabling ; stages 
 to and from stations ; bathing, sailing, rowing ; excellent table ; 
 receives one hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $2.50; by the 
 week, $12 to $15. Proprietor, Edwin C. Halsey, West Hamp- 
 ton, L. I. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 NEW YORK AND CONNECTICUT SHORE. 
 
 The north shore of the Sound is hardly less irregular and deeply 
 indented than the opposite coast line of Long Island, and, like the 
 latter, presents a picturesque alternation of headlands and bays,
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 333 
 
 rocky ledges and curving beaches. The bordering country is hilly 
 and well wooded, sheltering many beautiful towns which are much 
 favored as summer resorts. Among these are New Rochelle, 
 seventeen miles from New York ; Mamaroneck (twenty miles) ; Rye 
 Beach (twenty-four miles) ; Greenwich, Conn, (twenty-eight miles); 
 Stamford (thirty-tliree miles); Bridgeport (fifty-six miles), where 
 the Housatonic Valley debouches ; New Haven (seventy-three 
 miles); Branford (eighty-one miles); Saybrook (one hundred and 
 five miles), at the mouth of the Connecticut river; New London 
 (one hundred and twenty-four miles), at the mouth of the Thames, 
 with many delightful intervening towns. All these are reached 
 from the Grand Central Depot, New York, by the New York and 
 New Haven railroad : or by boat. 
 
 GREENWICH INDIAN HARBOR HOTEL. On a bluff, with water 
 frontage of five hundred feet ; porticoes one thousand feet in 
 length ; dining-room detached from the main building, lined with 
 hard wood, with ceiling thirty feet high ; separate kitchen ; cafe, 
 billiard-room and bowling-alleys in detached buildings ; brick fire- 
 proof stables ; gas, steam heat, electric bells ; pure filtered water, 
 sanitary arrangements approved by experts ; sectioned bathing 
 beach ; thirty acres in shade trees ; orchestral music morning and 
 evening ; yachting and fishing ; twenty trains daily and daily steam- 
 boat ; receives three hundred guests. Open from June to October. 
 Prices: By the day, $3.50 ; by the week, single room $18 and up- 
 ward ; for two, $.115 ar| d upward. B. H. Yard. 
 
 NEW LONDON FORT GRISWOLD HOUSE. On a bluff of the 
 Sound, opposite Pequot House, New London, at the mouth of the 
 harbor, overlooking the Thames boating course ; frontage of two 
 hundred and six feet, with brick wing five stories in height ; from 
 every room may be seen an animated water view ; verandas five 
 hundred feet in length ; children's dining-room and children's play- 
 room ; steam heat, open fireplaces, gas, electric bells ; elevator ; 
 thorough plumbing ; elaborate fire-extinguishing apparatus ; or- 
 chestral music ; bathing, boating and fishing ; billiards, tennis and 
 croquet lawns ; beautiful drives ; steamers 'leave from the railroad 
 wharf directly opposite the station ; a pleasant sail of ten minutes 
 to the hotel wharf ; cottages furnished with hotel service. Open 
 from June to September. Prices: By the day, $3 to $4. 50 ; by the 
 week $17.50 to $28. Special inducements to families.
 
 834 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 NEW LONDON PEQUOT HOUSE AND COTTAGES. At the mouth 
 of the Thames ; on the grounds are forty-four cottages, which, to- 
 gether with the main house, are supplied with gas, baths, electric 
 bells, etc. ; interconnection by telephone ; large parlors ; music 
 every afternoon ; livery and private stables ; approved drainage 
 system ; receives five hundred guests. Open early in June. Fur- 
 nished cottages for the season at moderate rentals. 
 
 BLACK ROCK BEACH GEORGE HOTEL. Fifteen minutes 
 from Bridgeport, on a promontory forming the western boundary 
 of Black Rock harbor ; a favorite rendezvous of yachtsmen ; wharf 
 in front, five hundred feet, for use of guests only ; beautiful grounds 
 of fifty acres, with large lawns ; -oowling alleys ; good boating, 
 fishing and bathing ; unexcelled drives ; gas, electric bells ; artes- 
 ian wells, thorough drainage ; orchestral music three times daily ; 
 good livery and stabling ; Wall street stock quotations received 
 hourly; several beautiful cottages, with gas, running water, etc., 
 for housekeeping, or hotel board supplied ; receives three hundred 
 guests : commutation rates to New York $15 a month. Prices: 
 By the day, $3 and upwards ; by the week, single rooms, $15 to 
 $25 ; double rooms, $28 to $45. 
 
 GREEN'S FARMS THE BEACHSIDE. At one of the most beau- 
 tiful points on Long Island sound ; house enlarged and improved ; 
 gas, electric bells ; billiards, bowling ; new dock ; bathing houses ; 
 boats ; excellent table. James H. Phipps. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 NARRAGANSETT BAY. SOUTH MASSACHU- 
 SETTS SHORES AND ISLANDS. 
 
 The shore of Narragansett bay, which deeply indents the State 
 of Rhode Island, is picturesquely broken up by headlands and 
 rocks, between which lie beaches ; the inland scenery is varied and 
 beautiful. Near the mouth of the bay, five miles from the ocean, lies 
 Newport, the great fashionable seaside resort of America. Opposite 
 Newport is Narragansett Pier, a much frequented resort, having a 
 gently sloping beach with light surf. Half-way between Newport 
 aad Providence lies Rocky Point, famous for its clambakes and its 
 observatory, affording an extensive view over the bay. For New-
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 335 
 
 port Fall River line of boats, Pier 28, North River, or Shore line 
 of New York and New Haven Railroad to Wickford, thence by 
 ferry. For Narragansett Pier New York and New Haven Rail- 
 road (shore line) to Kensington, thence by branch railroad ; or by 
 Stonington steamers to Stonington, thence by railway to Kingston, 
 thence by branch road ; or by Fall River boats to Newport, thence 
 by ferry. 
 
 NEWPORT OCEAN HOUSE. On Bellevue avenue, the most 
 fashionable thoroughfare of the tity; convenient to the Casino; 
 wide and well-shaded verandas ; rooms single and in suites, luxuri- 
 ously furnished ; spacious and lofty corridors, five wide stairways ; 
 elevator ; grand salon and reception rooms opening on the veran- 
 das ; dining-room, large and cool ; pure, filtered water ; baths ; 
 sanitary engineer in constant attendance ; cuisine of the highest 
 standard ; three orchestral concerts daily; fully equipped livery. 
 
 NARRAGANSETT PIER THE MATHEWSON. One of the 
 finest locations at the Pier, but a few rods from the Casino and 
 beach ; hot and cold, fresh and sea water baths ; separate elevators 
 for passengers and baggage ; electric lights and electric bells in 
 every room ; perfect sanitation ; pure spring water ; French cuisine; 
 rooms single or in suites ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
 Prices: By the day, $3 to $5; by the week, $21 to $40. Proprietor, 
 S. W. Mathewson, Narragansett Pier, R. I. 
 
 WATCH HILL, R. I. OCEAN HOUSE. Hotel stands on the 
 highest ground, overlooking the ocean and part of Narragansett 
 Bay noted for the tonic effect of its invigorating sea air ; all modern 
 conveniences ; best sanitary appliances ; pure filtered water ; 
 abundance of milk, cream and fresh vegetables from large farm ; 
 music ; outdoor amusements ; bathing, fishing and sailing ; re- 
 ceives two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : By the week, $17.50 
 to $30 for single rooms ; $35 to $50 for double rooms ; special rates 
 for the season and reduced rates for June and September. 
 
 WESTPORT POINT HOTEL WESTPORT. A point of land be- 
 tween the east and west branches of Westport River, an ocean 
 inlet half way between Narragansett Bay and Buzzard's Bay, faced 
 by Horseneck Beach ; fourteen to sixteen miles by stage from Fall 
 River or New Bedford, a new house on high ground, commanding
 
 336 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 ocean views from Block Island to Martha's Vineyard; wide halls 
 and stairways ; electric-bells ; bath rooms ; perfect drainage ; 
 guests conveyed to and from the beach free of charge ; well- 
 equipped boats and competent skippers ; sea bass, tautog, perch 
 and other fish abound ; sword fish off the Point. Prices : By the 
 day, for less than one week, $3 ; by the week, $12 to $16; special 
 rates for the season, or when two persons occupy one room. 
 
 BLOCK ISLAND OCEAN VIEW HOTEL. Ten miles off the 
 coast of Rhode Island ; accessible by steamer from New London ; 
 telegraphic connection with the mainland ; gas, electric bells ; 
 music hall, with stage ; verandasj one-third of a mile in length ; 
 surf and still-water bathing ; hot sea baths ; cable to mainland ; 
 string and brass orchestra ; receives five hundred guests. Prices: 
 By the day, before July 15 and after September i, $2.50 to $4 ; after 
 July 12 to end of August, $3 to $4.50 ; special rates for the season. 
 
 BLOCK ISLAND HOTEL MANISSES. Near the steamboat 
 landing, with fine ocean view ; thorough drainage and most im- 
 proved system of plumbing ; fire hose on every floor ; electric 
 bells and other modern appointments ; music hall and orchestra ; 
 livery and boarding stables ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
 
 NANTUCKET ISLAND THE SPRINGFIELD. Thirty miles off 
 the coast ; near the northern limit of the Gulf stream ; oldest sum- 
 mer resort hotel on the island ; on the shores of Nantucket harbor 
 within five minutes' walk of steamboat landing, the island railway 
 station, post office, etc.; the main building recently enlarged; 
 lighted with gas and electricity ; running water and closets on 
 every floor ; heated by steam ; electric bells, etc. ; two annexes 
 supplied with the same modern conveniences ; dining-room separ- 
 ate from the houses, and lighted by electricity ; telephone connec- 
 tions ; submarine cable to the mainlr nd ; hard, smooth beach with 
 bath-houses. Open all the year. Prices: By the day, $2.50 to 
 $3.50 ; special rates by the season and in June and September. 
 
 NANTUCKET THE NANTUCKET. Situated directly on the 
 beach, the parlor on the second floor commanding a water view on 
 four sides ; stage for theatrical and other entertainments ; excur- 
 sions by the hotel steam yacht.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 337 
 
 XIX. 
 
 EASTERN SHORE. 
 
 The Eastern Shore, by which name the Atlantic coast of the 
 United States north of Boston is designated, derives its broken and 
 picturesque character from the fact that the mountain system, 
 which farther to the south recedes from the coast, here abuts upon 
 or dips down to the ocean's edge, producing deep indentations, 
 rocky headlands and numerous outlying islands. Notable among 
 these islands is Mount Desert, in Frenchman's Bay on the coast of 
 Maine, an assemblage of mountain peaks, the highest of which 
 reaches two thousand feet. The Eastern Shore is interspersed 
 with beaches affording good surf bathing. Accessible from Boston 
 by Boston and Maine Railway and its branches. Steamers, run- 
 ning from Boston to Portland, touch at various landings. 
 
 NAHANT HOOD HOTEL. Largest house in Nahant ; pictur- 
 esquely situated on elevated ground on the south side of the pro- 
 montory, a short distance from the steamboat landing and in the 
 neighborhood of many elegant summer residences ; large airy- 
 rooms ; extensive piazzas ; excellent cuisine and service ; tennis ; 
 bathing and fishing ; rooms, single or in suite ; good livery and 
 stable ; excellent cuisine and table service ; under the present 
 management for the last four seasons ; receives one hundred 
 guests. Open June 15 to September 15. Prices : By the day, $3 ; 
 by the week, $15 to $25 : children under 14, half rates. 
 
 MARBLEHEAD THE NANEPASHEMET. Fifteen miles from 
 Boston by Eastern Railroad ; on Great Neck, a rocky peninsula con- 
 nected by a narrow beach with the mainland ; highest point be- 
 tween the ocean and Marblehead Harbor ; rendezvous of the East- 
 ern Yacht Club ; every room has ocean view ; wide verandas on 
 three sides ; gas, electric bells, running water and perfect drain- 
 age ; yachting, boating, tennis, bathing, shore and deep sea fish- 
 ing ; fine walks and drives ; telegraph ; livery and private stabling; 
 receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. Prices : By 
 the day, $3.50 to $4 ; special rates by the season, or for one month
 
 338 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 or more preceding August i. Proprietor, Dr. Ammi Brown, 
 Marblehead Neck, Mass. Address, until June i, 486 Columbus 
 avenue, Boston, Mass. 
 
 BEACHMONT HOTEL BEACHMONT. A select family hotel, 
 twenty minutes distant from Boston by half-hourly trains of 
 Boston, Revere and Lynn Railroad ; within easy reach of the sea- 
 side resorts on north and south shores of Boston Bay ; refurnished 
 and refitted with electric lights, hot and cold water baths, etc.; 
 broad piazzas on three sides ; ample, well shaded grounds ; lawn 
 tennis; beautiful country drives. Prices : By the day, $2.50; by 
 the week, for the season, $7 to $14^ Address Beachmont, Mass. 
 
 MAGNOLIA THE BLYNMAN. Situated on high ground, with fine 
 views of the ocean and surrounding country, combining sea-shore and 
 woodland scenery ; twenty-seven miles from Boston by the Boston 
 & Maine Railroad ; carriages to all trains ; spacious piazzas ; airy, 
 comtortable rooms ; water on every floor ; gas ; open fires ; new 
 plumbing and perfect drainage ; pure water and medicinal spring 
 on grounds ; table supplied from farm connected with the house ; 
 fine sandy beach for surf bathing ; boating ; fishing ; pleasant 
 drives. Prices : By the week, for rooms, $6 to $14 ; additional for 
 board, $9 for each person. Address Magnolia, Essex County, 
 Mass. 
 
 NANTASKET BEACH ROCKLAND HOUSE. On high ground 
 commanding extensive ocean view; all modern appointments ; gas, 
 elevator, steam heat ; pure water and perfect drainage ; bath 
 rooms, steam laundry ; billiard hall, music and ball room ; orches- 
 tral music ; telegraph office ; fully equipped stable ; surf and still 
 water bathing, boating and fishing ; beautiful drives and walks ; 
 tennis courts and ball ground ; hourly trains and boats from 
 Boston ; receives three hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $4 ; 
 by the week, $17.50 to $25 for single rooms ; $30 to $45 for double 
 rooms ; special rates to families. 
 
 LAND'S END TURK'S HEAD INN. At the extremity of Cape 
 Ann ; all modern conveniences ; recent improvements include a 
 casino for music and dancing, new stables for tally-ho coaches 
 which will run from the hotel, and new tennis court orchestra en- 
 gaged for the season.
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 339 
 
 NEWCASTLE THE WENTWORTH. Three miles from Ports- 
 mouth, N. H., on an island rising seventy-five feet above the sea ; 
 extensive and varied views seaward and inland from the two hun- 
 dred sleeping rooms and the veranda ; the latter fifteen feet wide 
 and one thousand feet long, the former large and well-furnished ; 
 steam elevator ; boating, bathing, fishing, 'for which there is ample 
 equipment ; steam yacht, provided for ocean and river excursions ; 
 a broad lagoon, with an area of fifty acres, affording safe boating, 
 and upon which a small steamboat plies ; music hall for dancing, 
 concerts, etc. ; band of twenty musicians engaged for the season ; 
 livery and private stabling; telegraph stock reports from New 
 York and Boston by independent wires. Prices : By the day, 
 $4.50; by the week, single rooms, $25 to $42 ; for two, $40 to $56. 
 Portsmouth, N. H. 
 
 ISLES OF SHOALS THE OCEAMC. Group of nine beautiful 
 islands, ten miles off the coast from Portsmouth, N. H., whence 
 steamers for the islands make four trips daily, connecting with 
 trains. The Oceanic is on the highest point of Star Island, whose 
 shores are especially bold and grand ; all rooms have an ocean 
 view ; gas, electric bells ; open fire-places in parlor and office ; ball- 
 room ; billiard-room, bowling-alley, circulating library ; hot and 
 cold salt and fresh water baths on every floor ; milk and cream from 
 a special mainland farm ; orchestra for the season ; fishing and 
 other boats manned by experienced skippers ; no flies or mosqui- 
 toes ; freedom from fog and dampness ; temperature remarkable 
 for its equability, ranging about seventy degrees ; the hotel grounds 
 include the entire island, the native proprietors having been 
 bought out. Open June to October. Prices : By the day, $3.50 ; by 
 the week, $21 ; by the month, $17.50 a week. Proprietors, 
 Laifhton Brothers, Isles of Shoals, N. H. 
 
 ISLES OP SHOALS APPLEDORE HOUSE. Appledore, the 
 largest of these islands, has an extent of three hundred and fifty 
 acres, and rises in parallel ridges seventy-five feet above the sea. 
 In the valley thus formed are the Appledore House and its group 
 of attractive cottages ; a shallow lake in front of the house offers 
 safe bathing and boating for children ; gas, electric bells, etc. ; fleet 
 of boats ; bowling and billiards ; tennis grounds ; music and dancing 
 hall, with stage, and well-selected orchestra ; hot salt water baths ; 
 physician in attendance ; steam ferry makes half-hourly trips to"
 
 340 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 Star Island ; connection by steamer with Boston one trip daily ; 
 with Portsmouth four trips daily ; receives five hundred guests. 
 Open June 20 to September 20. Prices : By the day, $3. 75 ; by the 
 week, $3.25 per day; two weeks, $3 per day ; four weeks or more, 
 $2.50 a day. Preprietors, Laighton Brothers, Isles of Shoals, 
 N. H. 
 
 KITTERY POINT HOTEL POCAHONTAS. On Gemsh Island 
 an island of two thousand acres at the mouth of the Pisca- 
 taqua river ; hotel stands on Pocahontas Point a promontory 
 having on one side a bold rocky coast, on the other a hard, smooth 
 beach ; ocean or river and inland view from every window ; sanitary 
 effects of the sea air and pine woods combined ; parlors, dining and 
 smoking-rooms, with open fire-places ; perfect drainage ; grounds 
 of one hundred and eighty acres ; a steamboat and carriages will 
 connect with the morning and evening trains at Portsmouth, half 
 an hour distant. Prices : By the day,$3 ; by the week, $12 to $21 ; 
 special rates for June and September. Address Kittery Point, 
 Maine. 
 
 BAR HARBOR THE LOUISBURG. The leading resort of Mount 
 Desert Island, combining the cottage features of Newport with the 
 hotel life of the great watering places ; the village, situated on the 
 shore at the base of a group of mountains ; water supply drawn 
 from a mountain lake fed by living springs ; perfect drainage in 
 connection with Bar Harbor's new and approved system of sewer- 
 age ; elevator ; lighted throughout by electricity ; wide verandas 
 and roof promenade ; receives two hundred guests ; highest stan- 
 dard of cuisine ; music by a Boston orchestra. Open July i to 
 September 15. Prices : By the day, before July 15 and after Sep- 
 tember i, $4 and $4.50 ; from July 15 to September i, $5 ; by the 
 week, $25 and upwards ; special rates by the season. Address Bar 
 Harbor, Mount Desert, Me. 
 
 CASTINE THE ACADIAN. A pretty village with wide streets 
 and fine residences on a peninsula projecting into Penobscot bay ; 
 accessible by the Bar Harbor steamer from Portland ; the locality 
 is famous for its traditions of old Indian and colonial wars ; its 
 summer attractions are its seclusion, picturesque surroundings 
 and boating and fishing facilities, The Acadian is pleasantly situ- 
 ated by the sea ; large rooms with best beds ; electric bells ; pure 
 spring water. Prices : By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $ioto $15. 
 Proprietor, Acadian Hotel Company,
 
 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 341 
 
 SORRENTO HOTEL SORRENTO. In Frenchman's bay, seven 
 miles from Bar Harbor ; a newly established resort, picturesquely 
 situated on the shore and laid out in attractive cottage sites by the 
 ' Frenchman's Bay and Mount Desert Land and Water Company," 
 which has availed itself of the services of skilful architects and 
 landscape gardeners. Hotel newly built, with all modern appoint- 
 ments ; lighted throughout with electricity ; complete livery ; 
 choice cuisine. 
 
 XX. 
 
 THE WEST. 
 
 DENVER, COLORADO HOTEL METROPOLE. At the foot 
 of the Rocky Mountains, in a dry climate long known for its re- 
 markable remedial qualities in pulmonary complaints. The hotel, 
 a new structure, is located on the principal avenue in Denver, con- 
 venient to both the business and residence portion of the city : 
 accessible to two cable lines ; an imposing building in the Ionian 
 style, nine stories high, built of the finest red pressed brick, terra- 
 cotta and electro-plated metal steel beams used throughout ; parti- 
 tions, floors and ceilings of hollow tile ; stairways and elevators of 
 iron and bronze, making it absolutely fire-proof ; intended for an 
 elegant home and resting place for the large number of travellers, 
 tourists and health seekers that now visit Denver ; appointments, 
 cuisine and service of the best kind. Restaurant and cafe a la 
 carte. Rates according to the accommodations desired, ranging 
 from $1.50 per day upward. Managers, Bush & Kappler. 
 
 DENVER, COL. BROWN PALACE HOTEL. A nine-story struc- 
 ture, in the Italian Renaissance style, decorated and furnished 
 throughout with lavish expenditure, frontage of eight hundred 
 and twenty feet ; the entire interior composed of iron columns 
 and steel beams, supporting hollow tile partitions, and flooring 
 of encaustic tile, making it practically fire-proof ; the rotunda an 
 open court fifty-six feet square, rising one hundred and twenty 
 feet to roof of the eighth floor, and surrounded by balconies ; a 
 panorama embracing three hundred miles of mountain scenery 
 seen from the windows of the hotel ; four hundred rooms, a large 
 number en suite, with baths, every room facing the street ; artesian
 
 342 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 water, electric lights ; most approved sanitary methods, and all the 
 latest devices for comfort and convenience. Conducted on the 
 American plan. Prices : By the day, $3 to $5, according to loca- 
 tion. Managers, William H. Bush and N. Maxcy Tabor, Denver, 
 Col. 
 
 ST. CLAIR, MICH. SOMERVILLE SPRINGS. On the banks of 
 the St. Clair river, about fifty miles north of Detroit, with view 
 of the river and surrounding country for miles ; all modern con- 
 veniences ; steam elevator ; electric lights in every room ; excel- 
 lent fishing, hunting and boating; delightful drives ; mineral 
 springs possessing valuable medicinal properties on the grounds : 
 receives two hundred guests. Open all the year. Prices : By the 
 day, $2 to $2.50; special rates for season. Address Somerville 
 Springs Company, St. Clair, Mich. 
 
 MINNETONKA BEACH, MINN. HOTEL LAFAYETTE. Located 
 on elevated plateau, on northern shore of lake ; a house of the 
 first class and one of the largest hotels of summer resort in the 
 Northwest ; one-fifth of a mile in length ; five acres of floor sur- 
 face ; reached by hourly trains from St. Paul and Minneapolis ; 
 high standard of service in every department ; electric lights ; 
 gas ; elevator ; steam heat ; perfect drainage ; boating, sailing, 
 rowing and fishing ; tennis grounds ; wide veranda and balconies ; 
 lawn with shrubbery and forest trees ; pure and dry air ; orchestra, 
 daily concerts, evening hops ; receives eight hundred guests. Open 
 in June. Prices : by the day, $4 to $5. Special rates for week, or 
 season. Address E. V. Holcombe, Manager, St. Paul, Minn., 
 until June i, then at Minnetonka Beach.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE 
 1893-4. 
 
 INDEX TO CHAPTERS. 
 
 I, FLORIDA PENINSULA. 
 II. GEORGIA UPLANDS. 
 III. GEORGIA SEASIDE. 
 IV. SOUTH CAROLINA PINE LANDS. 
 V. NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAINS. 
 VI. VIRGINIA MOUNTAINS. 
 VII. VIRGINIA SEASIDE. 
 VIII. MARYLAND. 
 IX. NEW JERSEY SEASIDE. 
 X. NEW JERSEY PINE BELT. 
 XI. ISLAND RESORTS. 
 XII. CALIFORNIA. 
 XIII. THE SOUTHWEST.
 
 344 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 I. 
 
 FLORIDA PENINSULA. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE. Oldest of American cities, still retaining 
 many of its early Spanish features ; visited by all Florida tourists 
 and frequented by health-seekers ; on the coast, forty miles south 
 of the mouth of St. John's river and thirty-three miles from Jackson- 
 ville from which it is accessible by railway. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE THE PONCE DE LEON. This celebrated 
 hotel a masterpiece of architecture attracts to itself as well as 
 St. Augustine, throngs of Florida visitors. Built massively of 
 gray shell concrete, elaborately trimmed with brick and terra cotta 
 ornamentations in the Spanish Renaissance style of architecture ; 
 with overhanging balconies, grand interior courts, arcade vistas 
 and a rotunda four stories in height, supported by Caryatides 
 and a forest of oaken columns, with a dome rich in allegorical 
 painting ; with towers one hundred and thirty-five feet high. 
 These are a few of the features of a house it is impossible to_ de- 
 scribe in a brief paragraph, the attractiveness of which has in- 
 creased rather than diminished during its five successful seasons. 
 The building covers nearly six acres ; the grand drawing room is 
 one hundred and five by sixty feet; the dining room extends one 
 hundred feet on either side of a domed centre, and accommodates 
 seven hundred guests.. 
 
 THE ALCAZAR, an adjunct of the Ponce de Leon, but in itself a 
 complete hotel, is planned on the same scale of magnificence and 
 built after the same architectural style. Its special features are 
 its concert rooms, cafe, casino, tennis courts, Russian and Turkish 
 baths, and a bathing pool one hundred and fifty by seventy feet, 
 over which are galleries for dancing ; receives four hundred guests ; 
 twenty-five acres of ornamented grounds, luxuriant in semi-tropi- 
 cal foliage, surround these hotels. Prices, at the Ponce de Leon : 
 By the day, $5 and upwards ; at the Alcazar, $4 and upwards ; 
 special rates by the week. Manager, O. D. Seavey, also manager 
 of Hotel Champlain. Clinton Co., N. Y. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE HOTEL CORDOVA. Faces the Ponce de Leon 
 and the Alcazar, modeled on the rich Spanish architecture of the
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 345 
 
 fifteenth century ; built massively of shell concrete, ornamented on 
 its front fa9ade with tiles imported from Valencia, which also deco- 
 rate the numerous stone balconies ; the lower range of windows 
 set off with the Angelo kneeling balconies, after those of Seville, 
 relieved by flowing draperies in warm colors ; the imposing en- 
 trance, suggested by the celebrated " Puerto del Sol " at Toledo, 
 leads into an open court, perfumed by orange trees and adorned 
 by new and beautiful tropical plants ; adjoining the drawing-room 
 is a " sala del sol " one hundred and eight feet long, with pavement 
 of tiles and roof of glass, supported by many columns ; a hall of di- 
 version decorated in Saracenic style ; two hundred guest chambers 
 in suites, with private parlors and baths ; gas, electric lights, sun 
 parlor, elevator and all the appliances of modern hotels ; the gov- 
 ernment grounds facing the Cordova have been laid out artistically 
 to form Cordova Park ; receives four hundred guests. Prices : 
 By the day, $4.00 ; special rates by the week. Manager, O. D. 
 Seavey, also manager of Hotel Champlain, Clinton Co., N. Y. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE HOTF.L ST. MARCO. One of the largest and 
 best appointed of St. Augustine's hotels ; in the midst of thirty 
 acres of handsome grounds ; situated opposite the old Spanish 
 fort, on highest ground in the city ; many improvements and a 
 thorough renovation last year. Every room open to sunlight and 
 good air ; spacious verandas commanding a magnificent view of 
 the bay ; gas and modern appointments ; unexcelled facilities for 
 boating, bathing, hunting, riding and fishing ; a four-horse stage 
 meets all trains ; receives five hundred guests. Prices : By the 
 day, $4.50 to $5. Special weekly rates. Managers : Ainslie & 
 Webster, St. Augustine, Fla. Managers also of the Maplewood, 
 White Mountains, N. H. 
 
 ON THE HALIFAX THE ORMOND. Eighty miles south ot 
 St. Augustine, on the Halifax peninsula, a strip of land half a mile 
 wide between the ocean and "the Halifax," an ocean inlet; the 
 peninsula is rich in semi-tropical vegetation ; accessible by railway 
 in two and a half hours from St. Augustine ; the starting point by 
 morning boat from hotel wharf for the east coast trip of two hun- 
 dred miles in smooth land-locked waters to Rockledge and Lake 
 Worth ; house enlarged and many improvements added, making it 
 one of the best appointed hotels in the South ; stands amid orange 
 groves ; large bedrooms furnished in modern style ; gas, electric 
 bells, steam heat and open fire-places ; two artesian wells and two
 
 346 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 immense cisterns for filtered rain water ; thorough sanitary ar- 
 rangements ; a large casino contains ball-room, theatre, billiard, 
 pool rooms, bowling-alley, etc.; good fishing, surf bathing and 
 driving ; skillful service by attendants brought from White Moun- 
 tain hotels ; no bar. Open December to May. Prices : By the 
 day, $4.50 to $5.00. The Coquina, a smaller house under same 
 management, on Ormond Beach. Prices By the week, $15 to $18. 
 Proprietors, Anderson & Price, Ormond, Volusia County, Fla. 
 
 JACKSONVILLE. The largest city of Florida ; twenty-five 
 miles from the mouth of the St. John's ; much frequented by win- 
 ter tourists, and the point of departure for most of the leading 
 Florida resorts ; accessible by Atlantic Coast Line Fast Mail 
 Route, whose vestibuled train of drawing-room, sleeping, dining 
 and library cars, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, leaves 
 Pennsylvania station, Jersey City, Monday, Wednesday and 
 Friday, at 9.30A.M., and arrives at Jacksonville on the following 
 day at 3.00 P.M.; St. Augustine at 4.15 P.M. 
 
 JACKSONVILLE THE ST. JAMES. One of the largest hotels ir 
 the State, with piazza front of three hundred and fifteen feet, de- 
 lightfully situated, facing the city park ; steam heated halls and 
 corridors ; open fire-places in rooms ; gas, electric bells, elevator ; 
 bath-rooms on every floor ; rooms in suites with private bath, 
 large and elegant parlors and dining-room ; grounds lighted by 
 electricity ; filtered rain water for drinking ; thorough plumbing ; 
 orchestral music for the season ; well-equipped livery ; receives 
 five hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $4. Proprietor, J. R. 
 Campbell ; Manager, C. O. Chamberlain. 
 
 JACKSONVILLE WINDSOR HOTEL. Fronts two hundred 
 feet on the city park ; elegant suites with private baths ; elevator, 
 steam heat, gas ; thorough plumbing, with special sewer to the 
 river ; closets copiously flushed every two or three minutes by water 
 from an artesian well ; billiards ; best beds and latest styles of fur- 
 niture ; parlor one hundred by forty feet ; orchestral music after- 
 noon and evening ; receives four hundred guests. Open from De- 
 cember to May. Prices : By the day, $4 and upwards ; by the 
 week, $21 and upwards ; same advantages at same prices as at 
 Northern summer resorts equally attractive. Proprietor, A. H. 
 Palmer.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 347 
 
 WINTER PARK THE SEMINOLE. A park of four thousand 
 acres of high, rolling land, covered with pines, which stand far 
 enough apart to permit teams to be driven anywhere at will ; one 
 hundred and twenty miles south of Jacksonville on the South Flori- 
 da Railroad ; forty miles from the Atlantic and eighty miles from 
 the gulf coast. The hotel stands between two lakes, half a mile 
 apart, the grounds sloping to the shores of both ; a steamboat 
 makes a tour of the lakes twice daily ; from the roof promenade 
 eleven lakes may be seen sparkling amid the pines and orange 
 trees ; verandas five hundred and sixty-seven feet long, from six- 
 teen to twenty-four feet wide ; steam heat, gas, elevator, electric 
 bells, fire alarms ; hot and cold water and steam baths ; large bed- 
 rooms, single and in suites, many of them with open fire-places and 
 private baths ; fishing, rowing, sailing, billiards, bowling ; fine or- 
 chestra day and evening ; excellent cuisine ; same mail facilities at 
 Winter Park as at St. Augustine and Jacksonville. House accomo- 
 dates four hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $4 ; special terms 
 for two weeks or longer. Resident manager, D. P. Hathaway. 
 New York office, 12 West Twenty-third street. 
 
 GREEN COVE SPRINGS. The village of Green Cove is situ- 
 ated on high ground, bordering the St. John's, thirty miles south 
 of Jacksonville, at a point where the river has a width of five miles. 
 The spring from which the village takes its name is of warm sul- 
 phur water and gushes up in a grove of live oaks, palmettos and 
 magnolias at the rate of three thousand gallons per minute, at a 
 temperature of Seventy-eight degrees. The water is conducted 
 into four separate swimming pools, twenty-five by seventy-five 
 feet, bordered by dressing-rooms. Accessible by daily steamer or 
 by railway from Jacksonville. 
 
 GREEN COVE SPRINGS HOTEL ST. ELMO. Beautifully 
 situated on west bank of the St. John's river, forming a delightful 
 and homelike retreat for the invalid or those who are seeking rest : 
 house provided with an artesian well and all modern conveniences ; 
 a private bath-house for use of the guests secured at the medical 
 Green Cove spring. Prices : By the day, $3 ; by the week, $12 to 
 $22. Proprietor, P. A. Borden ; manager, Judson L. Scott. 
 
 PALATKA. On the St. John's, sixty miles from Jacksonville 
 and thirty miles from St. Augustine ; easily accessible by boat
 
 348 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 and train ; it has gas works, water works, good brick and plank 
 walks and streets shaded with palm, oak and sour orange trees ; 
 called often " the gem city of the St. John's." 
 
 PALATKA PUTNAM HOUSE. An attractive and comfortable 
 winter home, recently refitted and improved ; occupying an entire 
 square, with spacious interior court filled with flowers and plants ; 
 broad verandas ; abundant supply of pure soft water ; elevator, 
 steam heat, parlor suites, rooms with bath attached ; boating, 
 fishing, duck and alligator shooting ; tennis and croquet grounds ; 
 frequent excursions by steamers to points of interest ; telegraph 
 office in hotel. Prices : $4 per day and upward ; one hundred 
 pleasant rooms at $21 per week for each person. Manager, Wil- 
 liam Catto, Palatka, Fla. 
 
 TAMPA THE INN AND RESTAURANT. Terminus, on the Gult, 
 of South Florida railway ; point of departure of the Plant line of 
 steamers for Key West and Havana. The Inn, a beautiful Queen 
 Anne cottage erected on piles over the waters of the bay, of which 
 it commands lovely views ; dining-room with glass on three sides ; 
 comfortable in its appointments either for a temporary sojourn en 
 route for Cuba or for a prolonged stay ; every facility for aquatic 
 sport. Open all the year. Manager, J. H. King. New York office, 
 i2 West Twenty-third street. 
 
 TAMPA TAMPA BAY HOTEL. A magnificent new structure, of 
 Moorish design, with broad galleries along the front of the house, 
 and grand hallway seven hundred feet long ; parlors and drawing- 
 room decorated in palatial style ; a rotunda seventy-eight feet 
 square with massive doors of Spanish mahogany ; music room ; 
 cuisine and table service equal to any hotel in the world ; every 
 modern convenience for the enjoyment of winter life in a balmy, 
 summer atmosphere ; guest rooms and suites of apartments, with 
 parlors and libraries. Manager, J. H. King. New York office, 12 
 West Twenty-third street. 
 
 ALTAMONTE SPRINGS THE ALTAMONTE. Situated in the 
 highlands of Florida, nine miles from Orlando, six miles from 
 Winter Park, and one hundred and fifteen miles south of Jackson- 
 ville ; ninety feet above St. John's river, in extensive pine and 
 orange groves ; near two clear water lakes, affording abundant 
 opportunity for gunning and fishing ; on one of these. Lake
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 349 
 
 Orienta, a steam launch has been placed ; a modern built hotel, 
 with many improvements since last season, and a recent addition 
 of twenty-five rooms ; heated by steam and with open fire-places 
 in many of the rooms ; billiards, bowling, telegraph, etc. ; connec- 
 tion by horse-cars, with station on South Florida Railroad a half- 
 mile distant ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open until 
 April 15. Prices: By the day, $3.50; by the week, $17.50. Pro- 
 prietor, H. W. Priest, also of the Forest Hills Hotel, Franconia, 
 N. H. 
 
 DE LAND AND LAKE HELEN HARLAN HOUSE. De Land 
 is five miles east of the St. John's, from which it is accessible, also 
 accessible directly by railway from Jacksonville ; a beautiful town, 
 which takes its name from its founder, H. A. De Land ; ample 
 space, with park-like stretches of pine forest and orange grove, in 
 which visitors from the North have built themselves pretty cot- 
 tages ; offers unusual educational facilities. The neighboring 
 Lake Helen is accessible by railway from Blue Springs landing on 
 the St. John's ; also by railway from New Smyrna on the Jackson- 
 ville, St. Augustine and Indian River Railroad ; the lake is remark- 
 able for the semi-tropical beauty of its environment. De Land 
 has several hotels and Lake Helen has two. The Harlan House at 
 the latter place is situated in a pine grove and overlooks the lake ; 
 a modern built house, with the latest appointments, and elegantly 
 furnished ; billiards, bowling, tennis ; upholstered boats on the lake 
 free to guests ; receives 100 guests. Prices : By the day, $2 to 
 $2.50. 
 
 II. 
 
 GEORGIA UPLANDS. 
 
 THOMASVILLE. A small, beautiful " garden city," having a 
 population of about five thousand ; in the highest parts of the 
 Georgia upland, twelve miles from Florida line, fifty-five miles 
 from the Gulf of Mexico ; accessible by New York and Savannah 
 steamers to Savannah, thence in a few hours by the Savannah, 
 Florida and Western railway ; or by the elegant vestibule trains of 
 the Atlantic Coast Line Fast Mail Route (Pennsylvania station, 
 Jersey City), in thirty-eight hours ; sandy soil, drying within an 
 hour after the heaviest rain ; few days in winter when one cannot 
 saunter with comfort in the open air ; beautiful drives through the 
 pine woods.
 
 350 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 THOMASVILLE PINEY WOODS HOTEL. Within three min- 
 utes' walk of the business centre of the town, fronting for four 
 hundred feet on " Paradise Park," a fine forest of eighty acres laid 
 out in rambles and drives ; wide and lofty verandas and projecting 
 towers ; Otis elevator ; gas, electric bells, steam heat and open 
 fire-places ; artesian well one thousand nine hundred feet deep ; 
 approved plumbing and perfect drainage ; suites with private 
 baths ; billiards, bowling, tennis courts, etc. ; livery with Kentucky 
 saddle horses ; orchestral music ; receives three hundred guests. 
 Prices : By the day, $4 and upward ; special rates by the week. 
 Proprietor, M. A. Bower. Manager, William E. Davies. 
 
 THOMASVILLE THE MITCHELL HOUSE. A large, massive 
 house of brick ; faces a pretty park ; main dining-room fifty-two by 
 seventy-five feet ; verandas eighteen to twenty-eight feet wide ; ro- 
 tunda fifty-three feet in height ; large bedrooms, with ample 
 clothes-presses, open fire-places for wood fires, and hot and cold 
 water ; rooms in suites with private baths ; wide staircases ; hard- 
 wood finish throughout ; gas, electric bells ; artesian well one thou- 
 sand nine hundred feet deep ; bowling, billiards, kennels for dogs ; 
 decorations and furniture by New York art decorators. Prices : 
 By the day, $4 and upwards ; special rates by the week or for 
 suites with private bath. Manager, George M. Tilton. 
 
 III. 
 
 GEORGIA SEASIDE. 
 
 BRUNSWICK THE OGLETHORPE. A beautiful city by the sea, 
 sixty miles south of Savannah and seventy miles north of Jackson- 
 ville, a city of parks with trees of live oak, magnolia and bay, and 
 pine forests, the neighboring country famous for its game deer, 
 wild turkey, foxes, etc. Parlor car service between Brunswick and 
 Way Cross, connecting with all through trains between the East 
 and Jacksonville. The Oglethorpe is a new house, opened four 
 years ago ; substantially built of brick, on the highest land in the 
 city, surrounded with spacious grounds ; main building two hun- 
 dred and sixty-seven feet in front, faced by a Corinthian porch ; 
 large rotunda tiled with marble, opening in the rear on a circular 
 balcony which affords a beautiful view of the bay ; dining-room
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 351 
 
 fifty by seventy-five feet ; grand parlor seventy by thirty-two feet; 
 parlor and reception rooms beautifully furnished and decorated, 
 having artistically carved mantels ; rooms in suites, with private 
 baths ; complete fire alarm arrangements and disciplined fire ser- 
 vice ; an artesian well supplies three hundred and seventy-five 
 gallons per minute ; receives three hundred guests. Fifth season. 
 Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $21 and $25. Manager 
 Warren Leland, Jr. 
 
 SAVANNAH THE DE Soro. A building of great architectural 
 beauty, occupying, with its inner court, an entire block, fronting 
 on Liberty street, with its semi-tropical plaza, on Monterey square, 
 and near the famous Forsyth Park, embracing acres of forest trees 
 and flowers ; wide piazzas and promenades ; three hundred rooms 
 with front views ; furnished and finished throughout in solid oak 
 and cherry, the drawing-rooms, parlors and many suites hung 
 with expensive tapestry, silk and lace ; a dining-room which seats 
 four hundred, and breakfast-room for fifty guests ; large gymna- 
 sium ; handsomely furnished sanitarium ; electric lights, with gas 
 always in reserve ; electric bells and return calls in every room ; 
 separate elevators for porters and servants ; cuisine supplied from 
 the best tropical, semi-tropical and Northern markets ; accommo- 
 dates five hundred guests ; special rates for families or parties re- 
 maining a week or longer. Managers, Watson & Powers. 
 
 IV. 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA PINE LANDS. 
 
 AIKEN. Thirty-one hours from New York, without change, by 
 the Pennsylvania and connected railroads ; one hundred and twen- 
 ty miles from Charleston, on an elevated plateau, between six and 
 seven hundred feet above the sea, encircled by forests of pine ; a 
 beautiful town of broad streets, with houses surrounded by gar- 
 dens of fruit trees, vines and shrubbery ; pure and dry air impreg- 
 nated with the odor of the pines ; average winter temperature, 
 forty-six degrees. 
 
 AIKEN HIGHLAND PARK HOTEL. Situated on elevated ground 
 on the borders of a park of three hundred and fifty acres, laid out 
 in walks and drives leading through groves of pines and other
 
 352 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 trees ; bedrooms and parlors in suites, with sunny exposure ; open 
 fire-places supplied with oak and resinous pine wood ; gas, electric 
 bells ; pure spring water ; bathrooms on every floor ; passenger 
 elevator ; billiard-room, ladies' billiard-room ; bowling-alley, tennis 
 court ; well-equipped stables, with well-trained saddle-horses ; 
 dairy farm ; excellent cuisine ; receives three hundred guests. 
 Proprietor, B. P. Chatfield. 
 
 V. 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 ASHEVILLE. A city of eight thousand inhabitants, at the con- 
 fluence of the Swannanoa and French Broad rivers, at an eleva- 
 tion of two thousand five hundred feet ; the central point of the 
 great mountain region of North Carolina, which is bounded on the 
 east by the Blue Ridge, on the west by the Alleghanies, and is 
 crossed by transverse ranges ; within a day's excursion of Mount 
 Mitchell, the highest summit east of the Mississippi ; winter climate 
 mild the snow seldom remaining long even on the highest sum- 
 mits ; accessible from New York in twenty-four hours, without 
 change, by the Piedmont Air line (Pennsylvania railroad station, 
 Jersey City). 
 
 ASHEVILLE BATTERY PARK HOTEL. An exceedingly pictu- 
 resque edifice, built a few years ago ; stands on the site of an old con- 
 federate breastworks, having a frontage of .more than three hundred 
 feet ; elevation two thousand eight hundred feet ; one hundred feet 
 above the city, commanding a mountain view miles in extent, and 
 pronounced one of the grandest in America ; average winter tem- 
 perature fifty degrees ; hotel heated by steam and open fire- 
 places ; lighted wholly by electricity ; hydraulic elevator, electric 
 bells ; baths on every floor ; music hall, ladies' billiard parlor and 
 bowling-alley ; well-equipped livery, saddle horses. Open all the 
 year. Manager. E. K. McKissiok. 
 
 ASHEVILLE KENILVVORTH INN. On an elevated plateau, 
 two thousand six hundred feet above sea level, surrounded by a 
 natural park of one hundred and sixty acres ; Pullman car service 
 via Pennsylvania Railroad ; dry, invigorating climate, entirely free 
 from dampness ; large rooms, all open to outside light and air ; 
 seventy rooms connected with private baths ; fan system of heating.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 353 
 
 forcing a current of pure air throughout the house ; all modern 
 conveniences, pure water, electric light, billiards, bowling, tennis : 
 best sanitary arrangements ; superior cuisine ; excellent livery ; 
 picturesque walks and drives. Prices : By the day, $4 to $5 ; by 
 the week, $17.50 and upwards; special rates to families by the 
 month. Managers, Rhodes & Browning, Asheville. N. C. ^ 
 
 HOT SPRINGS MOUNTAIN PARK HOTEL. A village of three 
 hundred inhabitants, in the valley of the French Broad river, thirty- 
 seven miles northwest of Asheville, on the Western North Carolina 
 road ; twenty-six hours from New York by the Pennsylvania road 
 and connections ; on a plateau forming a natural park, surrounded 
 by pine-covered mountains ; air dry, bracing and free from 
 malaria ; the springs have a temperature of ninety-six to one hun- 
 dred and four degrees, and their waters are conducted into a 
 bathing house which contains a large swimming pool, icox 30 feet, 
 and sixteen marble basins 9x6 feet, surrounded by dressing-rooms 
 provided with cots for resting and electric call-bell to summon at- 
 tendants ; the water is also conducted into bath-rooms in the hotel, 
 a building completed four years ago ; one hundred and seventy-five 
 bedrooms, furnished in cherry and ash, every window looking out 
 upon beautiful river and mountain scenery ; large ball-room, with 
 stage for theatricals, etc., elevator, gas, electric bells ; drinking 
 water from mountain springs ; resident physician ; well-equipped 
 livery. A picturesque iron bridge, affording a delightful promenade, 
 has been recently thrown across the French Broad river, and in 
 general all driveways have been improved. Open all the year. 
 Proprietor. \V. F. Ross, Hot Springs, N. C. New York office, 229 
 Broadway. 
 
 LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, TENN. LOOKOUT INN. Newly 
 equipped as a winter, spring and summer resort ; on summit of the 
 famous Lookout Mountain, two thousand two hundred feet above 
 sea level ; magnificent scenery, pure air and remarkably even tem- 
 perature, beneficial in lung, throat and nervous diseases ; an impos- 
 ing structure four hundred feet long, with central tower and exten- 
 sive side wings ; wide verandas around three sides of the house ; 
 large dining hall seating six hundred guests ; bedrooms, all outside 
 rooms, spacious and well-lighted ; all the most approved modern 
 conveniences ; gas, electric lights and bells, steam heat and 
 open fire-places ; billiards, bowling alleys, etc. ; accommodates five 
 hundred guests. Manager, David B. Plumer, Lookout Mountain, 
 Tenn.
 
 354 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VIRGINIA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 SALEM HOTEL SALEM. An entirely new winter and summer 
 resort, located in the Roanoke Valley and encircled by the Blue 
 Ridge and Allegheny mountains ; elevation one thousand one hun- 
 dred feet ; town and neighborhood noted for the social refinement, 
 intelligence and hospitality of its people; climate mild, equable 
 and invigorating ; free from malaria ; excellent natural drainage ; 
 average temperature for year, fifty-eight degrees. Hotel of brick 
 and stone, five stories ; one hundred rooms, many en suite with 
 baths ; main lobby, office, dining-rooms, sun parlor and several 
 guest rooms on the first floor ; thoroughly furnished and kept as a 
 first-class hotel. Salem is on the Norfolk and Western railroad ; 
 time from Lynchburg, two hours ; from Washington, nine hours ; 
 Philadelphia, twelve hours ; New York, fifteen hours. Open all the 
 year. Prices : By the day, $2 to $3.00. Special rates to permanent 
 guests. Proprietor, George W. Kittelle. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIRGINIA SEASIDE. 
 
 RICHMOND, VA. EXCHANGE AND BALLARD HOTEL. A hotel 
 of ancient reputation, well known to the world of travellers whose 
 wanderings have brought them to the capital of the Old Dominion. 
 Famous for hospitality as dispensed by the Southerner ; now in the 
 increased enjoyment of its fame. The two houses, Exchange and 
 Ballard, are connected by a covered suspension bridge, making 
 them virtually one ; remodelled and elegantly refitted throughout ; 
 electric lights and elevators ; accommodates six hundred guests ; 
 rooms en suite. Prices : By the day, $2.50 to $500 ; special rates to 
 families or for the season. Proprietors, Carrington & Archer. 
 
 OLD POINT COMFORT. The point of land between the 
 James river and Chesapeake bay ; one of the earliest settled locali- 
 ties on the North Atlantic coast and associated with some of the 
 most stirring events of American history from colonial times down 
 to the epoch of the late war ; the site of Fortress Monroe and the
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 355 
 
 United States Artillery school. The winter temperature seldom 
 falls below forty-two degrees ; and the air is bracing and tonic. 
 Accessible from New York by the Old Dominion line of steamers, 
 via Norfolk ; or by Pennsylvania Railroad to Baltimore, thence 
 by Bay line of steamers ; or by the all rail routes of the Pennsyl- 
 vania road via Washington and Richmond ; or by New York, 
 Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad, via Dover and Cape Charles 
 Time, twelve hours. 
 
 OLD POINT COMFORT HYGEIA HOTEL. The Hygeia Hotel, 
 situated on the Fort Monroe government reservation, on a beau- 
 tiful sandy beach, washed by the waters of Chesapeake Bay and 
 Hampton Roads, is a large and luxuriously appointed house, with 
 cathedral glass windows and other costly decorations in the pala- 
 tial dining-room and parlors ; gas, electric bells, oral annunciators, 
 elevators ; hot sea baths on every floor ; perfect drainage system ; 
 spacious sunny verandas enclosed in glass, affording a fine water 
 view ; beautiful dancing pavilion, with music afternoon and even- 
 ing by the artillery school band ; Turkish, Russian, thermo-elec- 
 tric, sulphur and other medicated baths ; varied out-door diver- 
 sions, including promenades on the beach, drives to various points 
 of interest, dances, concerts, etc. The proximity of the Gulf 
 Stream, less than thirty miles distant, ensures a mild, bracing 
 climate. Open all the year. Winter prices : By the day, $4 and 
 upward ; by the week, $21 and upward. Manager, F. N. Pike. 
 
 NEWPORT NEWS HOTEL WARWICK. On Hampton Roads, 
 at the mouth of the James River, eight miles above Old Point 
 Comfort, and twelve miles from Norfolk ; accessible by the same 
 routes by which Old Point Comfort is reached and having like ad- 
 vantages of climate and sea air. A substantially built hotel 
 of first-class appointments, occupying a site which combines with 
 park-like surroundings a marine yiew of great beauty and extent. 
 The hotel casino offers a floor forty by seventy feet for dancing 
 and other amusements ; a bowling alley in Queen Anne style, pro- 
 vided with alleys spaciously designed for the use of ladies ; a 
 promenade wharf three hundred feet in length, terminating in a 
 spacious pavilion. Trips from the Warwick to the Hygeia, at Old 
 Point Comfort, may be made by boat, by rail or by carriage. Open 
 throughout the year. Manager, J. R. Swinerton. For terms, illus- 
 trated pamphlets, etc., address C. B. Orcutt, Washington building, 
 No. i Broadway, New York.
 
 356 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 VIRGINIA BE ACH Eighteen miles by railway east of Norfolk, 
 thirty miles from Old Point Comfort, six miles south of Cape 
 Henry, the beach being part of a broad belt of hard sand stretch- 
 ing ninety miles along the coast ; thirty miles from the Gulf Stream, 
 eddies of which bathe the shore ; protected from northwest winds 
 by vast forests of pines ; winter climate as mild as in latitude 
 much further south. 
 
 VIRGINIA BEACH PRINCESS ANNE. In guecn Anne style, 
 with grounds of one thousand six hundred acres fronting five miles 
 on the ocean ; spacious public and private parlors, hot and cold sea 
 water baths ; billiard-room ; electric lights in every room ; bells, 
 elevator, latest sanitary appointments, etc. ; verandas enclosed in 
 glass ; steam heat and open fires ; a pavilion two hundred and fifty 
 feet long and one hundred feet wide, fitted up with tennis court ; 
 two adjacent lakes and a land-locked bay ; boating and fishing and 
 oyster-dredging ; the famous duck-shooting grounds of Currituck 
 sound easy of access ; orchestral music ; telegraph connections ; 
 boarding and livery stables ; receives three hundred guests. 
 Prices : By the day, $4 to $5 ; by the week, $25 and upward. 
 Proprietor, S. E. Crittenden, proprietor of the once famous Cooper 
 House, of Cooperstown, N. Y. New York office, 96 Broadway, 
 room 55. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 BALTIMORE THE ALTAMOM . In Eutaw place, at the corner 
 of Lanvale street, on the highest ground in the city, and from its 
 many bay windows looking out, in summer, upon a long vista of 
 greensward, shrubberies and flower beds, encompassing beautiful 
 private residences; a new house divided into suites of family 
 rooms ; sun parlor on top of house overlooking the city of Balti- 
 more and Chesapeake bay; an admirable system of heating and 
 ventilation, insuring constantly renewed supply of fresh air 
 warmed to a genial temperature ; also open grate fires ; water 
 filtered and purified by a patented process ; well-lighted and ven- 
 tilated bath-rooms ; a sweet, quiet, home-like hotel, delightful as a 
 place of permanent winter residence or as a home of temporary 
 sojourn en route to and from the South, Baltimore offering many 
 attractions, notably the celebrated art gallery of Mr. William T, 
 Walters. Proprietor, C. Warner Stork.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 357 
 
 IX. 
 
 NEW JERSEY SEASIDE. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY. A city of ten thousand permanent resi- 
 dents, having all the sanitary arrangements and conveniences of 
 larger cities ; popular as a winter and spring as well as summer 
 watering place, the climate being remarkable for its dryness and 
 equability, for which reasons, as well as for the purity of the air, it 
 is recommended by physicians to patients affected by pulmonary 
 and nervous disorders ; the beach affords a ten-mile drive, and is 
 bordered by a wide board walk, with numerous open-air pavilions ; 
 boating and fishing in the bays ; accessible in three and three- 
 fourths hours from New York, and one and one-half hours from 
 Philadelphia by the Pennsylvania Railroad (Desbrosses and Cort- 
 landt streets), or by the Central New Jersey Railroad (Liberty 
 street). 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE BRIGHTON. Recently remodelled and 
 enlarged ; grounds extend to the shore ; promenade veranda seven 
 hundred and thirty feet long and sixteen wide ; scientific plumb- 
 ing ; halls and public rooms heated by steam ; gas, electric bells, 
 elevator ; six staircases, two fire escapes ; electric arrangements 
 for sounding fire-alarms throughout the house ; parlor with bay 
 window overlooking the sea ; ladies' reading-room ; large bed- 
 rooms, with open fire-places ; suites with private baths ; hot and 
 cold sea-water baths ; no bar, but service of wines at table ; re- 
 ceives two hundred and fifty guests. Open all the year. Prices : 
 By the day, $3.50 to $5.00. Proprietors, F. W. Hemsley & Son. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE TRAYMORE. On high ground, with 
 observatory rising to the height of ninety feet, where a parlor is 
 prettily fitted up, to which ascent is made by the elevator ; bed- 
 chambers seventeen feet square, elegantly furnished ; open fire- 
 places ; hot and cold sea-water baths ; thorough sanitary arrange- 
 ments ; gas, electric bells, steam heat ; sun parlor overlooking the 
 sea ; children's play-room ; men's smoking room, with ocean view ; 
 receives two hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $3 to $5 ; by 
 the week, $18 to $25. Proprietors, W. W. Green & Co.
 
 ,358 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE MANSION One of the largest hotels in 
 the place, occupying a block two hundred feet square, on Pennsyl- 
 vania and Atlantic avenues, within five minutes' walk of the beach ; 
 handsomely furnished and artistically decorated parlors ; parlors 
 for children and nurses ; open-air pavilion for dancing, theatricals, 
 etc. ; richly carpeted passageways and bed-rooms ; parlor suites 
 with bath-rooms ; finely appointed cafe and billiard-room ; gas, 
 'electric bells ; water from the mainland ; thorough drainage. Open 
 .all the year. Prices : By the day, $3 and upward ; special rates 
 .by the week. Proprietor, Charles McGlade, Atlantic City. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE SHELBURNE. At the extreme ocean 
 end of Michigan avenue, Atlantic City, N. J., with a sea view 
 unsurpassed in the place ; a modern and capacious building con- 
 taining some eighty sleeping rooms, either single, double or en 
 suite and replete with all the appointments of a refined and luxuri- 
 ous home ; pure water, electric bells, gas, telephone, passenger 
 elevator ; hot and cold sea-water baths, perfect sanitation and all 
 conveniences for the comfort and pleasure of winter and summer 
 guests ; parlors, dining-room-, reception, reading and smoking- 
 rooms, and sun galleries are commodious, cheerful and handsomely 
 and tastefully furnished ; table and service maintained at a high 
 standard of excellence. Open throughout the year. For particu- 
 lars, terms, etc., address the proprietor, A. B. Roberts, Atlantic 
 City, N. J. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY SEA SIDE HOUSE. Two hundred and fifty 
 feet from the beach, at ocean end of Pennsylvania avenue ; stands 
 on the highest ground in the city, commanding an unobstructed 
 ocean view; a separate "ocean parlor" building on the water's 
 edge with smoking-room, reading-room, etc. ; covered walk to the 
 ocean ; elevator, steam heat, open fire-places, gas, electric bells, 
 etc. ; hot and cold fresh and salt water baths ; suites of rooms with 
 -private bath ; sun parlor ; large sun galleries ; receives two hun- 
 dred guests. Open all the year. Proprietor, Charles Evans. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE PENNHURST. On Michigan avenue 
 near the ocean ; house of sixty-two guest chambers, with cottage 
 of ten rooms ; electric bells ; sun parlor, children's playroom ; pure 
 .spring water ; steam heat ; private horses and carriages. Open all 
 the year. Proprietor, James Hood.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 359 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY THE IRVINGTON. On the beach, at the end 
 of Virginia avenue, a substantial and picturesque building, fur- 
 nished throughout in hard woods ; elevator with all latest safety 
 appliances ; wide stairways ; verandas to the first and second 
 floors ; abundant water supply and approved plumbing ; bath- 
 rooms ; steam laundry ; well-lighted children's play-room. Opens 
 in February. Proprietors, Chambers & Hoopes. 
 
 ATLANTIC CITY HADDON HALL. Open ocean front of four 
 hundred and fifty feet ; enlarged, improved and furnished in oak ; 
 large dining-room and parlors overlooking the ocean ; verandas 
 of three hundred feet and an interior promenade of two hundred 
 feet ; billiard parlor ; ocean view smoking-room ; steam heat ; open 
 fire-places ; dark room for photographic work ; receives two hun- 
 dred guests. Prices : By the day, $3 to $5 ; by the week, for one, 
 $18 to $25, single rooms ; $30 to $56, double rooms. Proprietors. 
 Leeds & Lippincott. 
 
 X. 
 
 NEW JERSEY PINE BELT. 
 
 LAKEWOOD. Situated in the great pine belt of New Jersey, 
 sixty miles from New York by the New Jersey Central Railroad, 
 and nine miles from the ocean ; trains leave New York at 8:15 A.M., 
 1-45, 3:40, 4:20 and 6:15 P.M.; winter temperature ranges ten 
 degrees higher than in New York ; boating on the neighboring 
 Lake Carasaljo ; beautiful walks and drives through the pine 
 woods ; the sandy and gravelly soil, dry air and balsamic exhala- 
 tions render the place a near-by winter paradise for guests troubled 
 with throat, lung or malarial diseases. 
 
 LAKEWOOD THE LAKEWOOD. The house, substantially built 
 of brick and iron, has projecting wings forming a sunny court 
 about which are grouped the living rooms, parlors, reading-rooms, 
 music-rooms, billiard-room, sun parlors and enclosed piazzas one- 
 quarter of a mile in length ; steam heat in every room and open 
 wood fire-places of Roman brick and tiles in nearly all ; extensive 
 system of ventilation constructed under supervision of an exper-
 
 360 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 ienced engineer ; electric lights, artesian well ; morning and after- 
 noon concerts, music at dinner ; billiards, bowling alley, telegraph ; 
 long distance telephone ; cuisine under charge of Mons. La Per- 
 rugue, late chef at Delmonico's. Receives seven hundred guests. 
 Prices : By the day, $5 ; by the week, $28 to $35. Manager, Fred. 
 Sterry. 
 
 LAKEWOOD THE PALMER HOUSE. A new and substantial 
 brick structure of modern architecture, built especially for winter 
 use, and having all the appointments of a first-class hotel ; most 
 approved system of steam heating; open fire-places and wood 
 stoves ; chambers single and in suites ; elevator, gas, electric bells ; 
 bath-rooms on every floor ; sun parlor with southern exposure and 
 open wood fires ; billiard-room ; pure spring water ; excellent 
 livery attached to the house ; rowing and sailing on Lake Cara- 
 saljo ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Manager, J. R. 
 Palmer, Lakewood, N. J. 
 
 LAKEWOOD LAUREL-IN-THE-PINES. A new and imposing 
 brick structure, on elevated ground, on bank of Lake Carasaljo, 
 in the midst of beautiful pine woods, with charming views of lake 
 and woodland from all points ; large windows and spacious sun 
 corridors ; all modern conveniences. Manager, Horace Porter> 
 also manager of the Laurel House. 
 
 LAKEWOOD LAUREL HOUSE. Especially designed and only 
 used as a winter house, having sunny rooms, with open wood fire- 
 places ; verandas enclosed with glass ; billiard and music rooms ; 
 electric lights ; abundant water supply from an artesian well ; all 
 the appointments of a modern hotel ; resort of a fashionable New 
 York circle. Open from October to June. Manager, Horace 
 Porter. 
 
 LAKEWOOD THE PINES. An old-fashioned residence on 
 Madison avenue between Second and Third streets, in the midst 
 of large grounds, with grove of old trees, mostly oak ; open fire- 
 places in halls and throughout the house ; large verandas on three 
 sides ; excellent table ; receives twenty-five to thirty guests. Open 
 from October to June. Proprietress, Mrs. John M. Child.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 361 
 
 LAKEWOOD THE BRENTFORD. In the highest part of the 
 village, corner of Madison avenue and Sixth street ; of recent con- 
 struction, with homelike and attractive interior ; large and sunny 
 bed-rooms, most of them with open fireplaces ; elevator ; smoking- 
 room ; house lighted by gas. Prices : For double rooms, $30 to 
 $50 per week. Open October to June. Proprietress, Miss A. M. 
 Myers. 
 
 XI. 
 
 ISLAND RESORTS. 
 
 THE BERMUDAS. A group of three hundred and sixty-five 
 islands lying off the Atlantic coast, southeast of Cape Hatteras ; 
 the largest, Bermuda or Long Island, being sixteen miles long and 
 a mile and a half wide. Upon this, Hamilton, the capital town, is 
 situated. The climate is mild and vegetation is greert throughout 
 the year, the winter temperature ranging from sixty-five to ninety- 
 five degrees. Bathing, boating, fishing are the outdoor diversions, 
 and the English official society lends gayety to the place ; picture- 
 esque drives over hard coral roads, bordered by orange and 
 lemon trees, oleanders, roses and flowering plants. Accessible in 
 sixty hours from New York by the iron steamers Orinoco and 
 Trinidad of the Quebec Steamship Company, 39 Broadway ; 
 steamers leave Pier 47, North River, at 3 P.M., every Thurday. 
 
 THE BERMUDAS THE HAMILTON. The Hamilton Hotel, 
 built entirely of stone, is delightfully situated on the highest 
 ground, commanding a view of the harbor and the numerous 
 islands, many of which are connected by bridges and causeways ; 
 gas, electric bells, hot and cold baths, etc. ; beautifully laid out 
 grounds, rich in varied foliage and blooming with flowers all win- 
 ter ; in the rear is Victoria Park, where the government band gives 
 weekly concerts ; table generously supplied from the New York 
 markets ; choice cuisine. Open from December to May. Prices : 
 By the day, $4 to $5 ; by the week, $21 and upward. Proprietor, 
 Walter Aiken, Hamilton, Bermuda. Cable address, Hotel, 
 Bermuda. 
 
 THE BERMUDAS PRINCESS HOTEL A comfortable and hand- 
 some structure. Built in 1881 of Georgia pine ; surrounded by a 
 veranda four hundred feet long and fourteen feet wide, from which
 
 362 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 one of the best views of the harbor and islands can be obtained ; 
 seventy large and well-ventilated bed-rooms in suites, with 
 verandas overhanging the sea ; lighted by gas ; fresh and salt 
 water, hot and cold baths ; table supplied with the best the New 
 York markets afford. Apply for circulars, terms, etc., to N. S. 
 Howe, Hamilton, Bermuda, or to A. E. Outerbridge & Co., 39 
 Broadway, New York. 
 
 THE BAHAMAS. A group of six hundred islands, forming 
 the most northerly group of the West Indies, and extending from 
 San Domingo to the coast of Florida. Only fifteen of these islands 
 are inhabited, the most important being New Providence, on 
 which Nassau, the capital town, is situated, accessible by the 
 Ward line of steamers leaving for Nassau every other Thursday ; 
 steamship office, 113 Wall street. 
 
 THE BAHAMAS ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. Built of the coral 
 rock of the islands and stands on high ground, affording perfect 
 drainage ; enclosed on three sides by verandas commanding a view 
 of the town and harbor, the neighboring islands and the sea; 
 large, well-ventilated rooms ; hot and cold fresh and salt water ; 
 table supplied with poultry and joints brought in ice-boxes from 
 New York ; bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, guavas, tamarinds, 
 pineapples and other tropical fruits in abundance ; beautiful drives 
 inland and by the sea over coral roads ; hops every Saturday 
 evening ; receives two hundred guests. Prices : By the day, $4 ; 
 by the week, $17.50 to $25. Proprietor, S. S. Morton; New York 
 address, J. Lidgerwood, 835 Broadway. Time-tables, pamphlets, 
 etc., furnished by James E. Ward & Co., or R. W. Parsons, 113 
 Wall street, New York. Cable address, Morton, Nassau, N. P. 
 
 XII. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 " The Sunset Route," as the Southern Pacific Railway is called, is 
 the route naturally preferred in the winter season of the year. " A 
 more delightful and comfortable journey," writes a Home Journal 
 tourist-correspondent, " than that from New Orleans to Los.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 363 
 
 Angeles could not be desired. Leaving New York in a snow 
 squall by the Atlantic Coast Line the ever-changing atmosphere 
 from that of early winter to summer-like mildness, when we 
 reached the Crescent City, was an inexpressible delight. From 
 New Orleans to San Antonio, Texas, a distance of about five hun- 
 dred and fifty miles, the road passes through a region rich in 
 varied vegetation." Of the trip from San Antonio through the 
 grand canons of of the Rio Grande and beyond to El Paso and 
 Paso del Norte, Mexico, much in glowing phrases has been written 
 by travellers of all nations. Pullman buffet cars on all trains, 
 General Eastern agent, E. Hawley, 343 Broadway, or i Battery 
 place, New York. 
 
 MONTEREY HOTEL DEL MONTE. An old Spanish town on 
 the coast, one hundred and twenty-five miles south of San Fran- 
 cisco ; on a magnificent bay, bordered by a hard, smooth beach, 
 upon which the hotel company has erected a bathing establish- 
 ment which includes not only dressing-rooms for beach bathing, 
 but a vast inclosure containing four swimming pools, each fifty 
 feet long, in which the constantly changing water is maintained at 
 varying degrees of temperature. The hotel is a building of pic- 
 turesque outline a mass of towers, corners and angles, with 
 broad piazzas and shaded porches in a park of two hundred acres 
 luxuriant in live oaks, pines, flowers and labyrinths of foliage ; 
 gardens equal to those of Kensington and Kew ; four hundred and 
 thirty rooms, warm and sunshiny, single and in suites, averaging 
 16x19 feet; dining-room, 175x60 feet; parlor 50x40; ball-room 
 93 x 40, with orchestra recess and grand piano ; ladies' billiard hall, 
 library, large open fire-places of decorated tiles in all public rooms ; 
 club house with billiard hall, bowling alleys, etc.; elaborate fire 
 alarm arrangements and disciplined fire service ; steam heat, gas, 
 elevator ; fishing in the Carmel river, deer hunting in nearby 
 mountains ; accessible by Southern Pacific Railway. Open all the 
 year. Prices : By the day, $3 and upward ; parlors from $1 to 
 $2.50 per day extra. Proprietors, Pacific Improvement Company. 
 Manager, George SchOnewald. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ SEA BEACH HOTEL. City of about eight 
 thousand population, on the northern side of the bay of Monterey, 
 about eight miles south of San Francisco, among the foot hills of 
 the Santa Cruz mountains, six miles from Big Trees ; temperature 
 one of the most equable in California ; flowers bloom in the open
 
 364 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 air every month in the year ; surf bathing during every winter 
 month ; abundant water supply from a reservoir two miles dis- 
 tant ; street cars and electric railway. Hotel located on an emi- 
 nence looking down upon Monterey bay, with a rich and varied 
 prospect of sea and mountain from the wide verandas encircling 
 the house ; a wing recently added, nearly twice as large as the 
 original building, containing seventy-five large, light rooms ; 
 spacious hall, extending the full length of the house ; hot and cold 
 water ; private baths ; incandescent electric light. Prices : By 
 the day, $2.50 and upward. Proprietor, John T. Sullivan. 
 
 REDONDO BEACH REDONDO HOTEL. Eighteen miles from 
 Los Angeles ; accessible by Redondo Railway and Santa Fe Rail- 
 way, and by steamer from San Francisco ; a new and large house 
 of picturesque architecture and luxurious in appointments, deco- 
 rations and furnishing ; hot and cold running water, incandescent 
 lights, electric bells and open fire-places in every room ; elevators ; 
 water from artesian wells ; scientific plumbing, the sewage pipes 
 extending half a mile into the sea ; music hall eighty by forty feet ; 
 orchestral music ; the dining-room commands a view of the ocean ; 
 tennis courts laid out at cost of $7,000 ; elaborately appointed bath- 
 house and pavilion on the beach ; varied and fastidious cuisine ; 
 dairy products and small fruits from hotel farm of two hundred 
 acres ; sailing, fishing, beautiful drives ; receives two hundred and 
 twenty-five guests. Open all the year. Prices : By the day, $3 to 
 $4 ; by the week, $17.50 to $28. Special rates for families and per- 
 manent guests. Address, Redondo Hotel Co., Redondo Beach, 
 Cal. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 THE SOUTHWEST. 
 
 HOT SPRINGS, ARKANSAS. These springs, which are cele- 
 brated for their curative efficiency in rheumatic and other ailments, 
 are situated on the slope of Iron Mountain in the central part of 
 the State ; their waters which flow in great abundance are dis- 
 tributed by a net-work of iron pipe through the cottages, hotels 
 and numerous bath-houses in the valley below.
 
 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 
 
 365 
 
 HOT SPRINGS NEW HOTEL EASTMAN. A newly completed 
 house, constructed of brick and stone and iron ; main building 
 six hundred and seventy-five feet by seventy ; verandas seven 
 hundred feet in length and fourteen feet wide ; an observatory one 
 hundred feet high ; rotunda fifty-two by seventy feet ; public 
 parlor sixty by seventy ; dining-room one hundred and fifty by 
 seventy, other public rooms on a like grand scale ; all elaborately 
 decorated ; guest chambers number five hundred and twenty, all 
 large, well lighted and ventilated ; one thousand five hundred 
 incandescent electric lamps light the interior, fifty arc lights, the 
 exterior ; steam heat ; no fires in the building except in kitchen and 
 laundry, which have been made fire-proof ; connected with the 
 house by a covered passageway and under the same management, 
 is a large bathing establishment containing forty bath-rooms, with 
 porcelain-lined tubs, vapor baths, etc. ; excellent hunting and fish- 
 ing in the neighborhood. Prices : By the week, $21 to $50, accord- 
 ing to location. Henry N. Willey.
 
 THOMAS MILLER & SONS, 
 
 SHIRT MAKERS, 
 
 AND DEALERS IN 
 
 MEN'S FURNISHING GOODS, 
 1151 BROADWAY. 
 
 Bet. 26th and 27th Sts. NEW YORK 
 
 RROM our large stock articles of reliable 
 
 TRAVELLERS 
 
 quality, and ready for immediate 
 CAN 
 
 PROCURE tjjj) use SHIRTS, COLLARS, SCARFS, 
 
 PAJAMAS, HANDKERCHIEFS and UNDERWEAR suitable for all 
 climates. 
 
 Our Store is conveniently located, 
 being opposite the Victoria Hotel, and 
 in the immediate vicinity of all the 
 leading hotels. 
 
 THE BROADWAY CABLE CARS PASS THE DOOR.
 
 CELEBRATED 
 
 HATS K. B0NNE1TS 
 
 AND 
 
 Dunlap Silk Umbrellas. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 178 and 180 Fifth Avenue, between 22nd and 23rd Streets, 
 and 181 Broadway, near Cortlandt Street. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 Palmer House. 
 
 Accredited A 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 914 Chestnut St. 
 
 in all ^rirjcipal Cities.
 
 The Earth is Styrinl^incj. 
 
 Sir Edwin Arnold, in one of his recent letters, says : 
 
 "This world we live in is becoming sadly monotonous, as it shrinks year 
 by year to smaller and smaller apparent dimensions under the rapid move- 
 ment provided by limited passenger trains and swift ocean steamships." 
 
 The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad has, 
 by the introduction of its Empire State Express, to a greater 
 degree than any other force on this continent aided this 
 shrinking process. It is now possible, by taking this Fastest 
 Train in the World, to breakfast leisurely at your home or 
 hotel in New York, and dine in Buffalo or Niagara Falls, 
 more than 440 miles away. 
 
 EMPIRE STATE EXPRESS " or THE NEW YORK CENTRAL 
 
 V_ THE FASTEST TRAIN IN THE WORLD. ^' 
 
 From a Photograph by A. P. YATES, Syracuse, N. Y. Taken when the 
 train was running 60 miles an hour. 
 
 For the excellence of its track, the speed of its trains, the safety and 
 comfort of its patrons, the loveliness and variety of its scenery, the number 
 and importance of its cities, and the uniformly correct character of its 
 service, the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is not surpassed by 
 any similar institution on either side of the Atlantic. 
 
 JOHN M. TOUCHY. GEORGE H. DANIELS. 
 
 GBMBRAL MANAOKR. OBN'L PASSENGER AQSNT. 
 
 GRAND CENTRAL STATION, NEW YORK.
 
 A Thousand Beautiful Views, 
 A Thousand Historic Scenes, 
 A Thousand Romantic Incidents, 
 
 Fill the sight and mind of the traveler who jour- 
 neys along our grand old Hudson River, and 
 through the beautiful Mohawk Valley, on one of 
 the Peerless Passenger Trains of the New York 
 Central. 
 
 Travelers who have visited all the countries of 
 the Globe express the opinion that the trip be- 
 tween New York and Buffalo and Niagara Falls, 
 by the New York Central, is the Finest One-Day 
 Railroad Ride in the World. 
 
 Every Mile is Historic, 
 
 Every Mile is Beautiful, 
 
 Every Mile is a Pleasure. 
 
 An ever-changing panorama of Rivers, Moun- 
 tains, Lakes, Fields, and Forests, interspersed 
 with Towns and Cities of international impor- 
 tance and absorbing interest. 
 
 For one of the "Four-Track Series," send two 2 cent 
 stamp* to GKORGE H. DANIELS, General Passenger 
 Agent, Grand Central Station, New York.
 
 THE 
 
 "WORLD'S GREATEST PASSENGER TRAIN." 
 
 This proud title has been bestowed by an 
 appreciative public on the 
 
 7[T is well deserved because the train affords more 
 & conveniences, more comforts and more luxuries 
 than any other train in the world. One may eat, 
 sleep, work or transact business as if in hotel or 
 club. To this end there are luxurious sleeping 
 cars, dining cars, ladies' maids, bath rooms for both 
 sexes, a barber shop, financial news and stock re- 
 ports, stenographers and type writers, United States 
 Mail boxes and a library. 
 
 7TT is the favorite train between New York and 
 ^ Chicago, and a trip on it is a long-remembered 
 leasure tour. 
 
 Pennsylvania Limited leaves New York 
 from the Pennsylvania Railroad Station, 
 foot of Desbrosses and Cortlandt Streets, every 
 day at 12 o'clock noon for Chicago. 
 
 J. R. WOOD, 
 
 S. M. PREVOST, General Passenger Agent. 
 
 General Manager.
 
 ATLANTIC COAST LINE 
 
 ' VIA WASHINGTON. 
 
 f ff-f ff-f'-f S X X S X X X X X > 'fs/f//fiVfi'Sf'/*/iVSW,Vn',HV,fs.f, 1 vm*f*if,,f,,f, .f,/f.,f 
 
 SHORT+LINE 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 NEW YORK, BALTIMORE, 
 
 WASHINGTON, 
 
 AND 
 
 RICHMOND, SAVANNAH, 
 
 WILMINGTON, BRUNSWICK, 
 
 CHARLESTON, ALBANY, 
 
 THOMASVILLE, PALATKA, 
 
 JACKSONVILLE, SANFORD, 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA, 
 
 PUNTA GORDA, 
 
 flLL FLORIDfl POINTS, AND HAVANA, CUBA. 
 
 OFFICES: 
 
 229 Broadway, New York. 33 South 3d St., Philadelphia. 
 
 228 Washington St., Boston. 106 East German St., -Baltimore. 
 511 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington.
 
 -TO 
 
 WINTER RESORTS 
 
 South Georgia, Florida, Cuba, the West Indies and Mexico, 
 
 Via HAVA.NA, CUBA, 
 
 REACHED BY THE 
 
 Plant System 
 
 OF 
 
 RAILWAY AND STEAMSHIP LINES. 
 
 In connection with Pennsylvania R. R., via New York, Washington 
 and Atlantic Coast Railways, and with the principal railway lines 
 Between all cities of the West and South-west, forming through train 
 and sleeping-car service, and 
 
 JACKSONVILLE:, ST. AUGUSTINE, T.\ MI* \ AND 
 PORT I \ M IV\, FLORIDA. 
 
 FAST AND COMMODIOUS STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN 
 
 Port Tampa, Key West and Havana ; Port Tampa and Mobile ; Port 
 Tampa and St. James City (Pine Island), Punta Rassa, Fort Myers, 
 Naples, and resorts of the Gulf Coast ; Port Tampa and Manatee River. 
 
 The magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel, at Tampa, and the Seminole, 
 at Winter Park, on the South Florida R. R., are open during the season 
 of Winter Tourist travel, and are maintained at a high standard of 
 exceller.ee. 
 
 The Inn at Port Tampa is open the entire year, and is in an attrac- 
 tive, healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival 
 and departure of steamers and trains. 
 
 For further information apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to 
 
 J. D. HASHACEN, EASTERN AGENT, 
 
 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 FRED. ROBLIN, TRAVELING PASS. AGENT, 
 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 
 H. B. PLANT, PRESIDENT. 
 
 12 WEST 23D STREET, NEW YORK.
 
 WINDSOR HOTEL, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 HAWK & WETHERBEE. 
 
 CONVENIENTLY SITUATED ON FIFTH AVENUE, NEAR THE GRAND 
 CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, ELEVATED AND SURFACE 
 TRAMWAYS, THEATRES, PLACES OF AMUSE- 
 MENT, CHURCHES AND CLUBS. 
 
 HAS BEEN RECENTLY FITTED THROUGHOUT 
 WITH THE LATEST MODERN SANI- 
 TARY PLUMBING. 
 
 THE DRINKING WATER USED IS CHEMICALLY PURE AND THE ICE 
 IS MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER. 
 
 CUISINE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED. 
 
 COOL AND ATTRACTIVE IN SUMMER. 
 
 COMFORTABLE AND HOME-LIKE IN WINTER. 
 
 STAGES WHEN DESIRED, WILL MEET ALL STEAMERS AND CONVEY 
 
 PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE DIRECT TO THE 
 
 HOTEL AT MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 RAILWAY TICKETS, SLEEPING CAR AND DRAWING-ROOM CAR 
 ACCOMMODATIONS CAN BE SECURED IN THE HOTEL; CABLE 
 AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, RUSSIAN AND TURK- 
 ISH BATHS, AND EVERY COMFORT AND 
 CONVENIENCE FOR TRAVELERS. 
 
 WELL-LIGHTED AND VENTILATED SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS, COR- 
 RIDORS, DRAWING-ROOMS AND PARLOR SUITES, SINGLE 
 OR DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHS. 
 
 ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
 
 GRAND BOULEVARD AND WEST ?IST ST., 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 THIS I'AMII.V HOT-:i. IS A PERFECT CiKM. 
 
 EVERYTHING NEW ! EVERYTHING OF TIE BEST ! ! 
 
 Choice sunny Suites, large and small. Every Suite a 
 Home by itself. Private Halls. Engagements made by the 
 year. Suites fully Furnished or Unfurnished. A limited 
 number reserved for parties wishing to remain in the City for 
 a week or more. Rates Reasonable. American Plan. 
 
 E. N. WILSON.
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 
 
 TOMPKINS, GAGE 4. PERRY, 
 PROPRIETORS. 
 
 to
 
 MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA. 
 
 MIDWINTER SCENES 
 
 AT THE CELEBRATED 
 
 Hotel del FTJonte, 
 
 MONTEREY, CAL 
 
 AMERICA'S FAMOUS SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT, 
 
 ONLY 3% HOURS FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 By Express Trains of the Southern Pacific Company. 
 
 Rates for Board: By the day, $3.00 and upward Parlors, 
 from $I.OD to $2.50 per day, extra. Children, in children's dining-room, 
 $2.00 per day. 
 
 Particular Attention is called to the moderate charges for 
 .accommodations at this magnificent establishment. The extra cost 
 of a trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference 
 in rates at the various Southern Winter Resorts and the incomparable 
 HOTEL DEL MONTE. 
 
 Intending Visitors to California and the Hotel del 
 Monte have the choice of the "Sunset," "Central," or 
 " Shasta" Routes. These three routes, the three main arms ot 
 the great railway system of the Southern Pacific Company, 
 carry the traveler through the best sections of California, and any one 
 of them will reveal wonders of climate, products and scenery that no 
 other part of the world can duplicate. For illustrated descriptive pam- 
 phlet of the hotel, and for information as to routes of travel, rates for 
 through tickets, etc., call upon or address E. HA'WL.UY, Assistant 
 General Traffic Manager, Southern Pacific Company, 343 Broad- 
 way, New York. 
 
 For further information, address 
 
 GEORGE SCHONEWALD, Manager Hotel del Monte, 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA.
 
 ]j|ofel 
 
 SANTA CRUZ BEACH, 
 Santa Cruz, California. 
 
 The leading family hotel with modern improvements and 
 first-class service. Hot and cold water ; electric lights and call 
 bells in every room ; headquarters for all tourists ; six miles to 
 the famous Big Trees, " Giant Redwoods. ' 
 
 The finest land and marine view on the coast. For terms 
 and illustrated souvenir, address 
 
 JOHN T. SULLIVAN, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN HOUSE. 
 
 The leading commercial house in 
 
 SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 Centrally located on the principal Street. Large, pleasant 
 sample rooms and modern improvements. Street cars pass 
 the door. 
 
 TERMS: 
 $2.OO, S2.SO and $3.OO per Day. 
 
 SULLIVAN & CHACE, Proprietors. 
 
 H. W. LAKE, Manager.
 
 YOUR ADVERTISING 
 
 IS SOLICITED 
 
 Estimates, containing Selected Lists of Suitable 
 Publications with Rates for Advertising, furnished free. 
 
 References to firms using this agency given on 
 application
 
 T 
 
 PRICE OF 
 
 UTICA, N. Y. 
 
 ONE DOLLAR A YEAR. 
 
 Many of its Readers Think it is Worth More. 
 ITS MISSION 
 
 IS 
 
 TO TELL YOU ABOUT AMERICAN SUMMER AND 
 WINTER RESORTS. 
 
 A subscription to THE TOURIST includes a 
 
 subscription to any one of the four 
 
 weeklies which form 
 
 THE NEWS SERIES: 
 
 THE SARATOGA NEWS. 
 THE RICHFIELD NEWS. 
 THE ST. AUGUSTINE NEWS. 
 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS NEWS. 
 
 WHICH HAVE BEEN CALLED 
 
 "THE COURT JOURNALS" OF AMERICAN HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS. 
 
 Each subscriber to either THE TOURIST or any one of The News Series 
 becomes a subscriber to 
 
 The Travellers' Bureaus of The News Series, 
 
 Whose business it is to furnish trustworthy information relating to America's 
 Summer and Winter Resorts. 
 
 General Office, UTICA, N. . F. G. BARRY, Publisher.
 
 II and 12 DOVER STREET, PICCADILLY, - LONDON. 
 277 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK. 
 
 1703 MICHIGAN AVENUE, - - - CHICAGO. 
 
 KATE RBILY 
 
 T T AS always on view at her three well-known estab- 
 lishments, in London, New York and Chicago, 
 a varied assortment of the newest and most choice 
 goods in 
 
 Costumes, Mantles 
 
 Madame Reily pays six or more annual visits to 
 Paris, where she has also a permanent agent. She thus 
 secures the freshest novelties, as they appear, and 
 seizing all that is best and most becoming in the in- 
 coming fashions adapts it to the especial requirements 
 of her extensive cHentele. 
 
 Madame Reily 's excellent taste has obtained for her 
 the esteemed patronage of all the most fashionable, 
 aristocratic and artistic ladies of both hemispheres. 
 
 PERFECT FIT GUARANTEED BY FIRST-CLASS 
 FRENCH FITTERS.
 
 THE HOME JOURNAL, 
 
 A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OF 
 
 I, fillip AND SOCIETY, 
 
 FOUNDED IN 1846 BY THE WELL-KNOWN POETS, 
 
 CEO. P. MORRIS AND N. P. WILLIS, 
 
 retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and 
 art culture which gives grace and refinement to social 
 intercourse. 
 
 Readers at a distance will find the best life of the 
 metropolis reflected in its pages. It is also in an 
 especial sense an 
 
 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL, 
 
 and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers 
 into touch with the social life of the 
 
 GREAT EUROPEAN CENTRES OF CULTURE. 
 
 THE HOME JOURNAL contains more advertisements 
 of SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT HOTELS, and devotes more 
 editorial space to them than any other newspaper. 
 
 It has particular value as an advertising medium 
 for EUROPEAN HOTELS, being the organ of cultivated and 
 fashionable Americans those who pass their summers 
 in Europe. 
 
 PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY. 
 SUBSCRIPTION, $2.00 PER YEAR. FIVE CENTS A COPY, 
 
 MORRIS PHILLIPS & CO., Publishers, 
 
 24O Broadway, New York.
 
 DEHPSEY & CflBBOLL, 
 
 @*: :x@ 
 
 THE UNION SQUARE, 
 
 ART STATIONERS 36 
 
 AND EAST 14TH STREET, 
 
 ENGRAVERS, NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 CORRECT STYLES. 
 
 WEDDING INVITATIONS & ANNOUNCEMENTS 
 RECEPTION & VISITING CARDS. 
 
 HIGH GRADE STATIONERY, 
 
 MONOGRAM, ADDRESS AND HERALDIC DIES. 
 
 HAND PAINTED 
 AND DINNER CARDS. 
 
 RICH LEATHER GOODS, 
 
 PLAIN AND SILVER MOUNTED. 
 
 IMPORTED STATIONERY NOVELTIES.
 
 M-70 
 
 IGK 
 
 SS TAILORING, 
 
 292 FIFTH AVENUE, 
 
 Just Above the Holland House, Between 30th and 31st Sts. 
 
 It is easier to follow 
 than to lead." 
 
 This aphorism is just as true 
 to day as it was in the time of 
 Columbus. ( ; 
 
 As an acknowledged leader in HIGH CLASS TAILORING 
 for the well dressed, I take pleasure to invite you 
 to my NEW ESTABLISHMENT, FIFTH AVENUE, 
 TWO NINETY-TWO (just above Holland House), to 
 inspect a complete line of CLOTHS manufactured abroad 
 by special warrant. f 
 
 Prices 
 
 Moderate. 
 
 JOHN J. KENNEDY, 
 
 NEW YORK,
 
 A 000994878 
 niuuijtm n. Ut lifcKMAN 
 
 By patent dated June 13 1892. has deigned to appoint the piano 
 
 manufacturer, WILLIAM STEINWAY the head of the house of 
 
 Stein way & Sons, New York, piano manufacturer to 
 
 HIS MAJESTY EMPERU 
 
 
 THE ROYAL COURT OF PRUSSIA. 
 
 STEINWAY &, SONS 
 
 rrv ^9? -^3 Beg further to announce 
 
 that by Royal Warrants 
 dated respectively May 29, 
 June 1 8, and Oct. 4, 1890, 
 they were honored by the 
 appointments of piano man- 
 ufacturers to 
 
 HER MAJESTY 
 
 THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND, 
 
 AND 
 
 THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES 
 
 THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES MAILED FREE ON APPLICATION. 
 
 STEINWAY & SONS, 
 
 WAREROOMS : 
 
 STEINWAY HALL, 107-111 East 14th Street, HEW YORK. 
 
 KUROPKAIST DEPOTS; 
 STEINAVAY HALL, j STKIMVAY'S PIANOFAKKIK, 
 
 St. Pauli, Xeue Rcscn-Stiasse. 20-24 
 v^T 
 
 HAMBURG, GERMANY. 
 
 15 and 17 Lower Seymour Street, 
 Portman Square. W., 
 
 LONDON. ENG.