A JOURNEY TO EDENBOROUGH The Edition is limited to 425 Copies JOURNEY TO EDENBOROUGH IN SCOTLAND By JOSEPH TAYLOR, Late of the Inner Temple, Esq. Now first printed from the original Manuscript. With Notes by WILLIAM COWAN WILLIAM BROWN 26 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH MCMIII PREFACE OF Joseph Taylor, the traveller whose experiences are recounted by himself in the following pages, nothing has been discovered beyond the fact, stated in the title of the manuscript, that he was a barrister of the Inner Temple. Two individuals of that name are entered in the records of the Inner Temple at the period in question. The first was admitted as a student in l66g, the other was admitted "by certificate from the Middle Temple" in 1701. As the former would be at least fifty-eight years old in 1705, it is more probable that the latter was the Joseph Taylor with whom we are here concerned. In their journey from London to Scotland Mr Taylor and his two friends travelled by way of Northampton and Derby to Buxton, and thence by Nottingham, York, Newcastle and Berwick to Edinburgh. Full descriptions are given of what the writer calls the " Wonders of the Peake," including the house and grounds of Chatsworth, and also of the cities of York and Newcastle, at each of which places the travellers made a stay of a few days. The most interesting and valuable portion of the narrative is that in which the writer describes the part of Scotland through which he travelled, and the manners and customs of the people with whom he came into contact. He is far from complimentary either to the country or its inhabitants, but possibly allowance must be made for the national prejudice against the Scots, which seems to 5 2054217 Preface have been prevalent in England at this period. The visit of Mr Taylor and his friends to Edinburgh took place at a time of considerable popular excitement in connection with the proposals for an incorporating union with England. They had the good fortune to be present at one of the sessions of the Scottish Parlia- ment, and the writer gives an interesting and detailed description of the methods in which the business was conducted, and of the animated debate which took place on the burning question of the day. Another matter to which a lengthened reference is made is the trial and execution of Captain Green of the Worcester, an incident intimately connected with the ill-starred Darien Scheme. In printing the manuscript the writer's peculiarities of spelling have been followed ; his punctuation has also been retained, except that a few of his redundant commas have been omitted where their insertion obscured the sense. On the margin of the manuscript opposite the names of the towns visited the writer has noted the amount of his expenses there, and also the distance from the pre- ceding halting - place. These marginal notes have been distin- guished by being enclosed within square brackets. A few notes have been added where points occurred which seemed to require elucidation, and an itinerary is subjoined giving the names of the halting-places in the journey with a reference to the page on which they are described. WILLIAM COWAN. ITINERARY PAGE PAGE London 9 Pontefract 44 Barnet 9 Wetherby 47 St Albans . 10 Knaresborough . 47 Dunstable . 1 1 York 50 Wobourn . 12 Malton . 67 Newport Pagnell '3 Scarborough . 67 Northampton '3 Whitby . . 70 Harborough 15 Gisborough 75 Leicester . . 16 Stockton . . 76 Loughborough . . 17 Durham . 77 Derby 18 Newcastle 83 Brassington . 19 Morpeth . . 90 Buxton 20 Alnwick . . 91 Castleton . 27 Berwick . . 92 Chatsworth 30 Cockburnspath . . 96 Chesterfield 39 Musselburgh 97 Mansfield . 39 Edinburgh - 99 Nottingham 39 Linton . 145 Belvoir 41 Moffat . 148 Newark . 42 Ecclefechan . 151 Tuxford . 43 Carlisle '55 Blith 43 Penrith ^57 Doncaster 44 Shap . 159 Itinerary Kendal . Lancaster . Preston Ormkirk . Liverpool . Chester . Holywell . Nantwich . Stone 1'AGE I 6O Lichfield 161 Coventry 162 Warwick 162 Daintree 163 Dunstable I6 7 St Albans 171 Barnet 174 London PAGE 75 176 178 182 182 182 182 182 A Journey to Edenborough in Scotland. By JOSEPH TATLOR, late of the Inner Temple^ Esq. IN the Yeare 1705, I tooke a Journy through most partes of Kent, in Company with severall of my Acquaintance, par- ticularly Mr Harrison, and Mr Sloman, and being very much diverted with the pleasure and satisfac- tion I received in it, I propos'd to make a longer Voyage through the Northern partes of England into Scotland ; which being agreed upon, between those Gentlemen and my self, we appointed to set forwards out of London, the 2nd of August following. But being under an Obligation my self to be at Sir Cloudesly Shovell's in Kent that day, my Fellow Travellers began their Journey without me, about five in the Evening, and went as farr as Barnett in Hertfordshire, where they lodged that night at the Sign of the Mitre. I got to Barnett [10 miles. Expen. il. 45.] about Eight next Morning, (Mr D'lamott accom- panying me thither) where I found them in a B 9 A Journey to Edenborough Garden expecting my coming : As soon as we had made a short Breakfast Mr D'lamott return'd to London, and we went on to St Albans : Near Barnett we rode by a good seat belonging to the family of the Woolfe's, but very odly scituated between two high wayes : We saw also another seat call'd Tittenhanger, within three miles of St Albans, belonging to Sir Thomas pope Blunt, pleasantly scituated, with a very handsom Avenue from the Road. St Albans [10 miles. Expen. is. 6d.] (though so near London) yet deserves a particular account. It's a Corporacion and Markett Town, govern'd by a Major and tenn Aldermen, and has three parish Churches : We saw the Abby dedicated to the Saint of that Name, whome they affirme to be the Proto - Martyr of this Kingdom, and that King Offa built it in honour to his Memory, in the very place where he was slain : They told us also, that the Murderer, after he had comitted the fact, wept out his Eyes for greife : We saw likewise the place where formerly his Shrine was plac't, all of beaten Gold, and there is a Dent in the Stone, made by the repeated Devotions of those who in superstitious times came to pay their Adoration to it. There 10 A Journey to Edenborough is also a Noble Stone Altar, at the East end whereof is the Tomb of Duke Humphry, and in the Abby are buryed severall persons of Quality, slain in two memorable batles near this place, between the two houses of York and Lancaster : On one side the Church is the picture, or Repre- sentation, of King Offa, painted on a Wall, and in another place the Story of St Alban carved in Wood, in another, the Ruines of a Cell in which a Monk had been immured alive, and to encrease his torments, provisions were inclos'd in a Grate out of his reach, which like Tantalus he could view but never touch. Pope Adrian granted to the Abbots of St Albans precedency of all English Abbots ; From thence we went up the Tower, where we had a view of the Neighbouring Country, and many fine Seats, particularly that of the Duke of Marlborough's, which made a very agreable prospect : We afterwards return'd to the White harte, where we staid a litle time, and then took horse againe to pursue our Journey : By the way we saw a Neat Seat of Mr Copping's, call'd Market Cell, about seaven miles beyond St Albans. Wee arrived at Dunstable, in Bedfordshire [10 miles. Expen. 145. 6d.] about two in the After- ii A Journey to Edenborough noone, and sett up at the Redd Lyon ; This Town is scituate in a Chalky ground, and has a good Market for Corn and Catle on Wednesdayes ; The Employment of the poor Women consists in making of Straw hatts. It is famous for the largenesse of the Larkes caught about it, which are reccon'd the best in England : We din'd here, and were enter- tain'd by the Town Musick ; We saw the Church, but found nothing in it worth Observation. From D unstable, by a steep descent down a Chalk hill, we went through Hockly in the Hole, a little Village consisting cheifly of Inns, and from thence to Wooborn [7 miles. Expen. 175.] another Markett Town, where we lay at the posthouse : It is only famous for a fine old Seat of the Duke of Bedford's on one side of it, call'd Wobourn Abby, and for the Fullers Earth dugg near it ; In the pitts, we were inform'd are found Oyster shells, which some are of Opinion were left there by the universall Deluge. Saturday 4th August, early in the Morning, we went from Wobourn, passing by Aspley, a small Village of a very pleasant Scituation ; I was in- formed by a freind of mine who lives there, that a Countryman, plucking a Stake out of a hedge, 12 A Journey to Edenborough found that end which was thrust into the ground turn'd into a perfect Stone, which makes good what Cambden writes concerning a Ladder turn'd into Stone near this place : We saw by the way a Church at Wellein, a small distance from the Road, built by Dr Busby, and from thence went to New- port pagnell, in Buckinghamshire [5 miles. Ex- pen, is. 6d.], seated on the Owse, over which it has two bridges ; The poor people are cheifly em- ployed in making Bonelace : It has a good Markett on Saturdayes : We baited here a litle while, and then rode on to Northampton, having a prospect of severall fine Seats from the Road all the way. Wee arrived at Northampton [10 miles. Expen. 145. 6d.] by two in the Afternoon, after an intoller- able Journey through Hickley Lane. About a quarter of a Mile off, we saw an Old Cross upon a Hill which overlooks it, and gave us a most agreable prospect of the Town : It is scituate on the bankes of the Nen, where a small River from the North emptyes it self into it, and is one of the Neatest Towns in England ; which like London, has risen as a phoenix out of it's own ashes. 1 It 1 Northampton was almost entirely destroyed by fire on 2oth September 1675. 13 has now all the advantages of regular streetes and uniform houses, most of which are built with Stone, and adorned with fine Iron Balconyes and handsom Signes. Alhallowes Church, which is new built, makes a very pretty appearance, (the Front being of the Modell of that in Covent Garden). The Goale and Sessions house are also new built and very magnificent. But notwithstanding all these advantages, 'tis a place of no great trade. Here we saw the Old Buttonmaker, who pre- tends to be One hundred and fourty yeares old, his hair is like Silver, and he show'd us some teeth he still had in his head ; He could not see perfectly, but heard what we said to him very well, considering his great Age, and answered us accord- ingly ; he gave me a Lock of his hair, which I sent to my Cozen D'aeth ; his daughter, who attends him, is seaventy years of age, and seems to be almost as old as her father; We saw this Man in the Market place, in a Chair, where he usually sitts : The Markett is very neat, and adorn'd with regular and lofty build- ings on all sides. As we walk't through the Great Church yard, we observ'd the two following Epitaphs, which I thought worth transcribing exactly : The One is 14 A Journey to Edenborough Here lyeth a Neighbour and a Friend, A Loving Wife and Mother, Short Sickness brought her to her End, And here she lyes to Slumber. The other is All you that's living as did know me, Prepare for Death when this you see, For lose of Time is much, The lose of Truth is more, The lose of Christ is such, The World cannot restore. After we had din'd at Northampton, we set out for Leicester the same day, but found it so long and tedious a Stage to Harborough [12 miles. Expen. il. 6s. 6d.], (tho' through a very pleasant and delightfull Country) that we were forc't to sett up there at the Swan, where we had a very civill Landlord. Here we inquir'd into the truth of those Reports spread about London, concerning the insolencies committed by Mobb on Mareschall Tallard and the other Ffrench Officers 1 who in their 1 Marshal Tallard, who commanded the French torces at Blen- heim on igth August 1704, was, on his surrender to Marlborough, '5 A Journey to Edenborough way to Nottingham were lodg'd at his house, and were inform'd, 'twas onely occasioned by a few drunken fellowes, who when they had seen him, were satisfied and went away. The Ffrench Gentle- men have all their Victualls drest by their own Cookes, who make in particular, excellent Soop ; They travell'd but few miles in a day (having a great Equipage with them). This is a pretty litle Markett Town, in a Noble Country. It has but an indifferent Church, which we went to on Sunday Morning 5th August. In the afternoon we set out for Leicester [12 miles. Expen. is. 6d.] scituated, on the Stowre, over which it has two bridges, and is governed by a Major and twenty-four Aldermen. We took up at the Angell having had the pleasure of riding through a fine Champion Country. Richard the 3rd was buryed here, after the fight at Bosworth, about eight miles off: This Town has five parish Churches, and a small Colledge for twenty poor men, near the Great Church, which is remarkable for nothing but its Antiquity and largenesse, and an sent as a prisoner to England, and the town of Nottingham was selected for his residence. On the accession to power of the Tory party in 1711 he was set at liberty, and returned to France. 16 A Journey to Edenborough inscription upon a plain Monument, which inform'd us, there was interr'd an Old man and Woman ; That the woman liv'd to see 153 of her Generation, and none buried out of the family for twenty years together : The Jews Wall is next worth notice, in which, the Guide told us, was an Oven, wherein the Jews, in former times, sacrificed their Children to Moloch ; but how fabulous this story is every one may easily judge ; It's built of true Roman Tyle, which showes it's Antiquity, and is so thick, that it endures the wind and weather without any alteration : We staid here no longer than just to see the place, and went the same Evening to Lough- borough [12 miles. Expen. i8s.] where we lay all night, but found nothing worth notice ; It is a Market Town, and upon the Sign of our Inn was an Inscription in Hebrew to inform Travellers, there was good drink to be sold ; I thought 'twas much like the Country parson's preaching to the ignorant people in Greek and Latin. It's an odd way to bespeak Customers in an unknown language, but good wine needs no Bush, and I dare say, had not passengers better Experience of the Liquor than knowledge of the inscription, the Master of the house would soon be oblig'd to shut up his doores. c 17 A Journey to Edenborough On Monday Morning, we set out for Darby [12 miles. Expen. ios.], where we arriv'd before Dinner, having past the Trent in a Ferryboat a few miles before we came to the Town. The ferryman instead of pushing it over with a pole, draws it over with a Rope, which runs cross the River, and is fix't on both sides. But I for curiosity, waded through with my horse, tho' 'twas a litle difficult : There is a good bridge over the Darwent, and whilst our Dinner was getting ready we went to see the Town, which is adorn'd with severall lofty new buildings, and there was then begun a very handsom Cross : In the cheit Church, call'd Alhallowes, is a Burying place rail'd in with a Balustrade of Iron, for the family of the Duke or Devonshire, and there is a Monument of some of his Ancestors, not extraordinary well finish't : The Steeple of this Church is very fine, and was built by the Subscription of severall young Men and Maids. There is litle else worth mentioning in the place, Except the many pretty Angells of the Fair Sex, who (tho' they seem'd to triumph with a haughty yet becoming Ayr) still appear'd capable of receiving the impressions of a languishing Ogle. After Dinner, we went from Darby to Brassing- 18 A Journey to Edenborough ton, in Darbyshire [10 miles. Expen. 8s. 6d.], thro' a very indifferent road : We saw in our Journey, a Noble hill call'd Holland's Ward, which gave us a large prospect of the country, and another call'd Heaven, famous for the breeding of good horses, with a fine River running at the foot of it : They attribute the goodness of the horses to the steepness of the Hill, which they runn up and down very swift ; We lay here, but had very ordinary accomodations, a sure presage (which we did not then observe) of the many difficultyes we were to undergoe in this Journey. On Tuesday Morning we went to see the Rarityes of the peake, About a Quarter of a Mile from Brassington, our Landlord show'd us Ward's hole, otherwise call'd, the Lord of Harbrough's Castle, where the Gyant Ward liv'd ; At the Entrance is a great Stone, which the ignorant people told us he flung from a place about half a mile distance in a fit of Jealousy for perceiving a Man going into the Cave to his wife, he thought to block him up, but his Foot slipping, the Stone fell short a yard or two : I beleive it fell from the top of the Rock, which gave a Rise to this Fable. The Old women told us strange storyes of pharyes, often seen in this 19 place. There's a stone on the topp of the Mountain, which they call Ward's chair, another his pulpitt, another his Gravestone, about fourteene foot long, and another his Font : And we were assur'd, that a few years since, a poor man and his Family liv'd in the Cave, till by decay of the Rock, the waters forc't them but. On the Top is a fine Spring ot excellent water, which is very observable. Wee went afterwards to see Buxton wells [14 miles. Expen. 2!. 75.], the first wonder of the peake, described in Poetry by the ingenious Mr Cotton ; But I must not forget an excellent Spring of water we met with, between Brassington and Buxton, for being very thirsty in that teadious Journey thro' a desolate, and barren Country, after a longing expectation for some house to refresh our selves at, we at last came to a poor Woman's Cottage ; Here I may make an excusable digression, and reflect upon the incertainty of humane affaires, how soon may a man, who enjoyes all the indulg- ences of good Fortune, be reduc'd to the necessity of begging ? This was our case, for being almost choak'd, for twelve miles together, without water even for our horses, we were forc't to entreat the poor old Woman to bestow some upon us, which 20 A Journey to Edenborough was the onely Liquor she had, and I think I never drunk with a greater Gusto in all my life. The remembrance of this, I hope, will alwayes inspire me with the principles of Charity and Generosity : The poor woman, to make the water more pleasant, told us that formerly on Ascension day, the Minister and parish went in procession to the Spring, which is on the top of a rocky Mountain, and there pcr- form'd the Service of the Church : Thro' all this Road we saw nothing but low stone walls instead of hedges, and scarce a tree in the whole Country ; But at length, almost tyred with so great a fateigue, we arriv'd at Buxton a poor litle Stony Town, only famous for the Wells, which give it the honour of being one of the wonders of the peake. It belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, who has now given particular orders for the accomodation of travellers ; The waters proceed from two Sulphurous Springs which are purgative ; The one cold, the other, near it, lukewarm : They are of a fine blew, and so extremely clear, that a Gentleman, dropping his ring into it, we could see it at the bottom, and our Guide took it up ; Here we met with a Young Lady, in Company with her Father and Mother, whose conversation made the place very agreable : 21 A Journey to Edenborough She justly merited from us the name of the fair Gloriana, which we found accidentally engraven on the wall of the Bath, whilst we were disputing what Angelicall tytle we should give her ; 'Tis impossible to describe how merry we were, and with what pleasure we bath'd, which was so much the greater, because we never expected such heavenly Enjoyments in so desolate a Country. This suffici- ently convinc't me, that good Company makes all places diverting. On the Wall in one of the Rooms, we found the following Verses, imperfect, through some mistakes in the Originall. 1 Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis Quaerit aquas Aponi quem febris atra necat Ut penitus renem purget cur psaulia tanta Vel quae dant radijs pectora Calderia? Sola mihi Buxtona placent, Buxtona Britannis Unda 1 Undae > grani Aponus psaulia Calderia^ Unde J 1 The verses are printed exactly as they appear in the manuscript. They certainly present considerable difficulties in the way of translation. This may be due to the "mistakes in the original" referred to by the author, and possibly to further errors in his transcription. 22 A Journey to Edenborough But the Verses made by the Queen of Scots are more intelligible. 1 Buxtona quag calidae celebrabere nomine lymphs, Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, Vale. English't thus Buxton whose fame thy Baths shall ever tell, (Whome I perhaps shall see no more) Farewell. Whilst we were making Observations on these Verses, a Country fellow, who seem'd to be more of a plowman than a poet, would needs intrude upon us some Verses, which he pretended he made for his Neighbour, who married for Love without acquaint- ing any of his Relations : The Man was so pleas'd with the Repetition of them, that for a frollick I copyed them out. The Countryman's Verses. I'm for my fair Liddy, and she is for me. For I like not a woman, unless she is free, The affection that I, to my Mistress do pay, Grows weary, unless she meet me half way ; 1 Queen Mary visited Buxton more than once, while under the care of the Earl of Shrewsbury at Sheffield. 23 A Journey to Edenborough No sooner I came, but she met me as soon, No sooner I ask't, but she granted the Boon, And without a Preamble of portion, or Jointure, She promis'd to meet me, where'eer I appoint her, There can be no pleasure, till humours be hitt Then Jumping's as good, in affection, as Witt, Then a figg for a Mistress, that's modest and coy, Let her ends be the pleasures, that we do enjoy, Let her ever deny, such secret Delight, What she Refuses all day, she Longs for all night, Then praise my fair Liddy, who swears they'r all mad, That feed on dry bones, where flesh may be had. We went afterwards to see pooles hole, another wonder, about a quarter of a mile from the Wells, into which we were forc't to creep on all four, and the fair Gloriana honoured us with her Com- pany ; But when we had entred the Cavern, which represented the Arches of a Cathedrall, we went upright a litle way, and then stoop't again ; As we pass'd along, our Guides show'd us severall different Figures, form'd by the petrifying water dropping from the Roofe : One was like the body of a Man ; another resembled an Organ, 24 A Journey to Edenborough another Choir work, another a Lyon, another call'd Mr Cotton's Haycock, another a Font, in the top whereof is a Cavity constantly fill'd with water : another is that strange substance hanging from the Rock call'd the Flitch of Bacon : These wonderfull prodigies of nature gave us at once an occasion both of Horrour and Admiration ; Nothing can be finer than that famous Pillar, which the Queen of Scots gave a name to, when she was in this Cavern, and from her call'd the Queen of Scots pillar, because that unfortunate Princesse, when she came to see these Curiosityes, stop't at it and went no further. The pillar is naturally of the Corinthian Order, and so curiously wreath'd, that 'twould be difficult for an Artist even to imitate it. When one surveys the prodigious Arches, hears the im- petuous waters roaring as they roule thro' the Rocks, and views the amazing Precipices we were obliged to pass, sure nothing can be more terrible or shocking to Nature. A perpetuall darknesse reigns in this dismall Region, so that every one of us was oblig'd to take a guide with a Candle. We went as farr as possible, and at the further End discharged our Pistolls, which thundered thro' the vaulted Roofes with a prodigious Eccho. As D 25 A Journey to Edenborough we came away we left a Candle upon a Rock in a place call'd the Needles Eye, about a quarter of a mile high from the Queen of Scotts pillar, which at a distance appear'd like a bright Starr : As soon as we had got out, abundance of poor women, who attended on purpose, gave us some water and herbs, to wash our hands with ; There is nothing else worth notice at Buxton, Except the abundance of Lead Mines about it, We afterwards return'd to the Wells, and lay there all night, having spent the Evening with all imaginable pleasure and satisfac- tion ; On Wednesday Morning, with great regret, we left Buxton Wells, and the fair Gloriana, who promised to pray for our happy Journy, and went to see another Wonder of the peake, call'd Elden hole, which is a Bottomlesse pitt, with a mouth 30 foot long, and 18 broad; The poor people brought us stones to throw down, which we could hear, about a Minute, as they were falling, But Mr Cotton, who lett down 900 Yards of pack- thread, tells us it is unfathomable : We were told, an odd Story concerning this Hole, That a Gentle- man being benighted, enquir'd at a Neighbouring house for a Guide, and two Fellowes, pretending to direct him, led him to the Mouth of it, and 26 desir'd him to alight, telling him 'twas safer walking a Stepp or two, thro' a Slippery way ; As soon as he had gott off, they threw him into the pitt, only for the Lucre of his horse and Portmantua ; From hence we went to see another Wonder, call'd Mam Tor, which is a vast high Mountain, reaching to the very Clouds, 1 and soe great a Precipice, that the Stones and dirt which have fallen from it in stormy weather have made another large hill under- neath it ; We set out afterwards for Castleton, [8 miles. Expen. il. 8s. 6d.] where we arriv'd about 2, having past thro' a Stony Lane between two amazing Rocks, which hung over our heads, and seem'd altogether impassable ; Yet our Guides told us, that a Fellow who had stole away his Mistresse, being closely pursued by her Freinds, and rinding no other way left, rode up one Pass, which we thought impossible to be ascended, with her behind him, and according to his desert, for so bold a proofe of his passion, carried her off ; We refresh't our selves, and then went to see that unspeakable wonder call'd the Devill's A se, which is out of my power to describe with Justice ; At the Entrance is a litle Village, with Stacks of hay, 1 The height of Mam Tor is 1710 feet. 27 A Journey to Edenborough barns, and Stables, all cover'd over by the Moun- tain, which we went thro', and at length came to a great Water, where we were oblig'd to pass over in a Vessell much like a Tubb, laying our hands and our feet together, and two men with a great deale of difficulty, guided us thro' ; for their heads touch't the Rocks, and they were almost up to the Shoulders in water ; Thus we ferryed over this Infernall Lake, about the space of 10 Yards, and then walk't 15 yards or more upon the sands, our Charontick Ferrymen carrying the preposterous Boat on their Shoulders, in order to cross over the next water, which we did, not without some horror, and landed safely, as I thought, in the other world, where we all engrav'd our names on the Rocks ; We were here in a State of imaginary purgation, and therefore wash't away all the Relicts of our cares in the world above us, with the best Nectar and Ambrosia we could get to carry with us, in this Elysian progresse ; Then we walkt on for above a quarter of a Mile, till we were stop't by a River, which running with a rapid Stream bounds this Infernall Kingdom, and surpris'd us with its terrible Noise ; We were resolv'd to go as farr as any man ever did, so we mounted on the Shoulders 28 A Journey to Edenborough of our Guides, and rode into the Midle, where we fir'd our Pistolls, which gave a prodigious report ; And tho' it thundered and lightned most part of the time we were here, yet we knew nothing of it, till we came out : After we had spent two or three hours in this Survey, we return'd by a different way, over Mountaines of Stone, and when we were got upon a very steep and dangerous precipice, our guides set up a lighted Candle at the Bottom, which every one was to throw at, and he who first hit it down was to have the honour of the enter- prize ; which fell to Mr Sloman's share ; We saw many Caverns in the Rocks as we went along, which the people call'd by severall names, and at last, with a great deale of Labour, gott out again, passing over the same waters in our Ferryboat as before. There is nothing further worth observation at Castleton, Except the Castle, which being built upon a high Mountain, over the Devill's A se, gave us a great deale of trouble, to climb up to it ; 'Twas never very strong but is now only a heap of ruines, and seems to remain as a Monument, to shew posterity from whence the Town deriv'd its name ; from thence, we had a pleasant prospect, on one side, of a fine Vally, and Pastures, surrounded 29 A journey to Edenborough with many black mountainous Rocks, and on the other, of prodigious precipices and mountaines, joining only by narrow passes, which (tho' they appear'd dangerous) yet are the common Road for the neighbouring people ; Our Guide told us a surprizing Story of a poor fellow, who being sent by his Master to conduct some freinds thro' one of these passes, they in requitall, gave him so con- siderable a dose of strong Liquor, that as he re- turned, he mis't the Pass he was to go thro' and fell from the top of the steep mountain into the Vally underneath it, and yet received no further damage than a slight wound in his head, and his Horse was not so much as hurt ; He lay there till he was sober, and then walk't home (his horse having made the best of his way before him). At length being well tired, we return'd to our Inn, and there enjoy'd our selves all night with the best entertainment this poor Town could afford us. The next day 8th August we went to Chatsworth, [8 miles. Expen. il. los. 6d.] where we saw the Noble palace of the Duke of Devonshire, another surprizing wonder of the peake, which containes about sixty acres of ground (including the house and gardens) It's scituated on a rising Rock, above 30 A Journey to Edenborough the River Darwent, which runns in a Vally be- tweene two Mountains, and prevents its having any Avenue : It's surrounded on all sides with the most barren Country imaginable, So that I may properly call it a Paradice in the Deserts of Arabia ; The best View is on a Bridge, over the Canall before the house, which Canall is supply'd from a Spring in the Park : As we entred the Court, before the Palace, we observ'd the fine cast Iron Gate, on each side of which runs a Rechlinear Balustrade, before all the front, and also the two Noble Pedestalls, which support the Iron work at both ends, whereon are carv'd the Trophyes of Warr, with the Cypher (WR) on every Standard : On the Top of each Pedestall lyes a Beautifull modern Sphynx : When we had entred the Gates, in the Court before the West Front, we walk't on, till by a fine Voliere or Flight of Stepps we ascended a Grand Tarras, fac't with Tuscan Pilasters. In the Niches are Busts of Isicle Deityes, or Water Gods, The house is built in the figure of an Oblong Square, cloister'd within on the North, and South sides, and in the Midle of the Square is a Noble Basin of mix't figure, and an Italian Arion, sitting on a Dolphin, with Jet Deaux playing into the Basin thro' each Nostrill A Journey to Edenborough of the Dolphin : The West Front containes nine windowes, the Sashes are finely guilt on the Out- side, and over every window is carv'd the Staggs horns (part of the Dukes arms), between every window are lonick pilasters, with Four Columns of the same order supporting a Frontoon with his Graces Arms, and on the South Front, are twelve windows, the Sashes also guilt on the Outside, and only four lonick pilasters in the midle, and one at each end, In the Frize on the South Side is the Dukes Motto (Cavendo tutus) We first entred a Spatious Hall, pav'd with excellent Marble, with a curious Marble Chimney peice ; In the front ot the door was painted the Sacrifice to Janus, so naturally done that it perfectly surpriz'd us ; and on each side of the Sacrifice, an admirable Repre- sentation of a Roman Batle ; One of which was that at Actium. On the left side, was represented the Tragedy of Caesar, in the Senate house, where that barb'rous Murder appears to the very life ; The other part of the Hall is set off with paintings in Fresco ; On the Plaffbnd or Ceiling, was painted a Cession of the Gods, and every passion extremely well expres't : There is a Noble Voliere or double Staircase of Marble, with Iron Banisters, consisting 32 A Journey to Edenborough of Eighteen Steps, on each side an Arch, on the right side of the Hall with curious Marble Urnes, whose flames are guilt : Under the Staircase we past thro' a fine Alcove, and severall other Roomes, to a neat Bathing place, lin'd with excellent marble, But when we came back, and ascended these voliere staires, we went thro' a large Dyning room to the famous long Gallery, which is reputed to be one of the most finish't peices in the world ; The Story of Pastor Fido is here so lively painted in severall Pannells, that one would think every Figure was acting it's parte in that celebrated play. It's adorn'd with lonick pilasters, painted in imitation of por- phery, and Lapislasulae, with guilt flower pots between them, the Capitalls and Bases are also guilt : On the Mantle peice, in a Square pannell, are severall curious figures in Basso Releivo, and on each side the Chimny is a Nich with an Italian Bust in it ; Next to the Gallery is a Noble per- spective room : We were afterwards brought, to another Staircase of Marble, leading into severall fine Apartments, which are adorn'd with various paintings ; In one is the Triumph of the Moon, with all her attendance, and round them, the twelve signs of the Zodiack : In another, the Story of E 33 A Journey to Edenborough phaeton, extremely well done, by Sharroon : a It represented to us phoebus, yeilding up to his rash son, the command of his Fiery Chariot, and with what a wonderfull concern, he gave his last in- structions, to the attentive youth ; then the horses foaming, and biting their bits, mad to proceed on their accustomed Journy, and poor phaeton, im- patient to take his Father's rayes, seems insensible of his approaching ruine ; In the Staircase before mentioned, we saw the triumphs of Europe over the other parts of the world, with a Representation of Ceres, and Flora attending her, and many other proper Emblements ; at the Uppermost landing place of this Staircase are two noble marble door cases, which lead into each side of the house ; In one room is a fine peice of painting, describing severall virtues and vices, and in severall others are noble peices of Tapistry, of Gold, Silver, and Silk, done at Brussells by Vander bush ; One represents the story of Jupiter and Lasda, where the deceitfull God, is turn'd into an imaginary Swan, to enjoy her, 1 Louis Cheron, or Charon, a French decorative artist. Being a Protestant he was obliged to leave France in 1695. He spent the rest of his life in England, and was employed by several of the nobility. 34 A Journey to Edenborough another Apollo and the Sisters, and their Mother Niobe, weeping into Stone, by them, Jupiter and Ganimede ; Another the Rape of the Sabin Virgins, and another their Reconciliation ; There is a very neat Chappell, pav'd with curious marble, and lin'd with Cedar ; The Duke's Gallery is supported by four pillars, of the Corinthian Order, the Capitalls and Bases are white, the Shafts black, and 'tis to be observ'd that every Shaft of the pillars in the Chappell is of one entire peice, and the Nich in the midle where his Grace sits, is adorn'd with abundance of carv'd work : There is a glorious Altar of Marble, ascended by three steps, and supported by two black Columns with white pedestalls and Chapiters, and also a Dove, betweene two large figures of Justice and Mercy, with fine painting over it representing our Saviour's appearing to St Thomas : In the curve of the Altar, are marble pilasters, between each Capitall stands a Marble Cherube, and round the Chappell are painted the severall miracles of our Saviour ; Besides which, there are abundance of fine paintings, by Sharroon, Vario, Legard, 1 and others, 1 Cheron (see previous note, page 34). Antonio Verrio, an Italian, was invited to England by Charles II., and was employed on the decoration of Windsor Castle and Hampton 35 A Journey to Edenborough which our time would not admitt us to take an ac- count of. Most of the Marble is dugg out of neigh- bouring Quarryes, and many pillars are of one entire peice, The carving is done by one Watson of Darby- shire, 1 and we were told, that three rooms cost in carving, 1500!. ; There are a world of fine festunes, flower peices, and trophies, and the Sculptures are almost inimitable ; We saw some Furniture, but the house is not yet finish't, There is a Colonade intended, on the North side, to answer that of the South, and a Semicircular peice of building for the Kitchins, and Outhouses ; When we had satisfied our curiosityes within doores, and were handsomely entertain'd by the Dukes command, we walk't out into the Gardens, which fill'd our Eyes with fresh Objects of delight and admiration ; They are cutt out of barren rocks, which makes them the more wonderfull ; That part of the garden, which rises above the East side of the Palace, has seaven Terraces to the Cascade. There is a large Grotto, in which are severall fountaines continually playing, and a Willow tree in the Center Court. Louis Laguerre, a Frenchman, was also employed at Hampton Court. 1 Samuel Watson, wood carver, a native of Heanor in Derbyshire. He probably worked under the direction of the celebrated Grinling Gibbons. 36 A Journey to Edenborough of a Wildernesse, which spouts out of every branch and leafe, there are also severall basins with Jet deaux, humouring the Tree, and the whole Wildernesse is guarded with Satyrs : In another fountain is a Duck which spouts out of it's mouth : There is also a charming Long Arbour, near the Wildernesse, and a Firr Wildernesse with three Basins and figures, from thence we entred a walk with Statues on each side, reaching from the Grand Canall to the Firr Wilder- nesse, There is also a Garden by the Stables, which has a good Canall, with a Greenhouse at the end of it, and a Bason in the midst : In the flower garden, corresponding to the South Front, is a Basin with a Groupe, being Neptune in the midst of four sea horses, wonderfully fine, with water spouting out of their mouths and Nostrills, and between the leggs of each, a Jet deaux playing ; This Garden is surrounded by a handsom Iron Balustrade, which parts it from the Grand Canall, and at the head plots are two Italian Statues ; From hence we went into the Bowling Green, on the South side whereof, is a noble Summer- house open, and supported by four Dorick Pillars, there are severall Niches in it, with Statues, and the plaffond is handsomely painted, Beyond this Bowling Green, nearer the house, lyes another Garden, in the 37 A Journey to Edenborough midst is an Ovall Basin, with a fountain representing the Court of Neptune, The whole's impossible to be dcscrib'd in so small a Journall ; Nothing certainly can be more pleasant than the shady walks on every side, where as from Heaven, one may survey the distant horrors of a hellish country ; But I beleive the noble Cascade, which the Duke is now making, will farr exceed all the rest, the Cistern is on the Top of a very high rocky mountaine, and the de- scent from the Top, consists of twenty four falls, each twenty four foot Square, and in every other fall are five breaks, and at the bottom it runns into the great Canall ; After we had past thro' all these charming gardens, we went to contemplate on what we had seen, in a shady Grove before the house, by which there runns a pleasant Canall ; Here we had a de- lightfull prospect of Art and Nature ; A Noble Palace, adorn'd with all the Embellishments of the most exquisite workmanship ; delicate Gardens, beautified with all the Rarityes Curiosity can invent, in the midst of a most barbrous Country ; We every- one set the Cyphers of our names on a tree, as a Memoriall of our having been in that place ; Behind the house and Gardens is a Parke, wherein is the Spring I before mentioned, but it's more like a 38 A Journey to Edenborough Quarry of Stone, and on the Top of the hill is the Stand for Deer, represented in a Scene of the New Theatre ; But one must perfectly climb up stairs to goe to it (the Rock being as it were cut into Steps on purpose.) We return'd to our Inn very well satis- fied with what we had seen, and lay there all night ; Early the next morning leaving the Peake, we passed thro' the Dukes Parke (being but an indifferent road) and about 9 arrived at Chesterfeild [6 miles. Expen. 2s.] a Market Town, remarkable only for it's good Ale, where we baited at the Angell, From hence passing by the Castle of Bolsover, belonging to the Duke of Newcastle, we went to Mansfeild [14 miles. Expen. 45.] another Mar- ket Town, where we also baited, and afterwards arriv'd at Nottingham [10 miles. Expen. 3!. 6s. i id.] about 8, in the Evening, where we set up at the post house, This is a very neat Town, in a delicate Country, and is famous for its excellent Ale ; It's scituated on the Trent, over which it has a good bridge, and is govern'd by a Major and six Aldermen. We went first to see a great Cellar cut thro' a Rock under ground, where we tasted admirable liquor, And after- 39 A Journey to Edenborough wards Mareschall Tallard's house and Gardens 1 which did not answer the great expectation we had from the generall discourse, of their Finery and Grandeur, For on the contrary, the French Prisoners live very privately (The Mareschall paying only 505. per Week for his Apartments), The Garden is but small, but is kept very neat, It is very well laid out into severall Plotts : as we came back, we saw the Mareschall, Count Soille, and two other Gentlemen, who were the only Prisoners then remaining : We saluted them with a Bow, which they return'd very obligingly, and afterwards went to see the Castle, scituated on the top of a hill, which overlooks the whole Town, and belongs to the Duke of Newcastle ; It makes a better appearance on the Outside, than within, because 'tis but very indifferently furnish't ; From hence we had a charming prospect, and the Gentleman who was with us shew'd us a Neighbour- ing hill, where King Charles the First set up his unfortunate Standard ; The Castle is capable of being made very fine, with moderate charge, but there needs no Gardens, the whole Country round being perfectly fruitfull, and abounding with variety of fine Seats, of which Woollaton hall (the Seat of Sir 1 See note, page 15. 40 A Journey to Edenborough Thomas Willoughby) is particularly famous ; and also with excellent Corn, and Mutton ; We went to the Church on Sunday, but found nothing curious, except the fair sex, who adorn the place ; But what with the pleasures of the Town, and the inconveniency of the great Storm, which hapned whilst we were here, we staid to the 1 3th of August, On which day, early in the Morning, we set out for Belvoir Castle [12 miles. Expen. 6s. 6d.], where we arriv'd about Noon ; This is a Noble Seat of the Duke of Rutland's scituated on the top of a very high hill, from whence we saw the Noblest Country in the world for twenty miles round, and sixteene Spire Steeples, and every Town belonging to the Duke ; There is not only the advantage of a good Ayr in this place, but also the best house- keeping in the Country, and the greatest Civility imaginable to Strangers ; Of which we were very sensible, for my Lord Roosses Gentleman (to whom Mr Harrison was recommended) entertain'd us by his Lordship's command, with good wine, and the best of Malt liquors, which the Cellar abounds with, and my Lord himself did us the honour to show us the house ; The long Gallery is most worth Observa- tion upon account of the pictures of all the Earles F 41 of Rutland, from the Lord Manners, who was first created Earle by Henry vm. to the present Duke, and there is the picture of the Lord Marquesse of Granby, at full length, at the lower end, and at the Upper end are the pictures of King Charles the first, and second, well done, and on one side, a good Picture of the great Duke of Buckingham, In this Gallery the Duke treated Mareschal Tallard, and the rest of the French Officers, very splendidly, and was serv'd all in plate ; We were told his Grace has as much plate as any Nobleman in England ; But there is nothing curious in the Furniture, Except a Bed, finely work't by the Duke's Mother and the present Dutchesse, On the Counterpane is a Ship wrought in Gold and Silver, There is also a pretty Chappell, which is well filled every Sunday, for we were in- formed, there are near 200 persons in the Duke's own Family ; We were recommended to see the Church at Botsworth, about two miles off, where are the Monuments of the Family, and spent an hour in reading the Inscriptions, but found nothing extraordinary, from thence we went to Newark [9 miles. Expen. us.] that evening, thro' a delicate Country ; It's a very neat Town, famous for its memorable Seige in the late Civill 42 A Journey to Edenborough Warrs ; before we came thither we saw the Remains of the Intrenchments, which were dugg on that occasion ; King Charles the First was here oblig'd to coin mony out of his own plate, on the Reverse whereof is stamp't the name of the Town : The Market place is neatly pav'd, and there is a good Stone Spire to the Church, We saw the old Castle also, which now stands as a shatter'd monument to posterity of that cruel and unnatural Warr, Over the Trent is a very neat Bridge ; We lay at the Sarazen's head, and the next Morning went to Tuxford [10 miles. Expen. 55. 6d.] a small Market Town, which was ruin'd a few years since by a dreadfull fire, but is now almost rebuilt ; It's but an indifferent place for Entertainment, and has nothing remarkable but a Schoole for 20 poor boys, So we only din'd here, and rode on thro' a very pleasant Road in Sherwood Forrest to Blith [10 miles. Expen. i8s. 6d.] another small Market, scituated in as charming a Country as ever I saw, It has nothing worth observation Except the pleasant and beautifull Seat of Mr Mellish, which stands at one end of it, We went to visit him and his Lady, who have the deserv'd character of a pretty Couple, and to present the Letter my Cozen D'aeth 43 A Journey to Edenborough entrusted me with, to the fair hands of that celebrated beauty, which soon recommended us to a very gen- teel Entertainment, It being in the Morning, we were treated with excellent Chocolat, and Wine of severall sorts, and with a pretty Desart of admirable Sweetmeats ; After we had received all the Civility we could expect, we took our leave, and set forward for Doncaster [10 miles. Expen. ios.] a neat Market Town, which consists only in one long street ; here we had the pleasure of dining upon excellent Salmon, taken out of the River Dan ; After Dinner we took horse, and rode to Pontefract that night ; We had a pleasant road, and what was most observable in our Journey was an old ruin'd Castle, near Doncaster, and a Seat of Sir Godfry Coply's and also Robin Hood's Well, where we drank excellent water, which an old woman stands ready to give to Passengers ; At Wentbridge, we heard of an accident which hapned a few years agoe in the house where we baited ; Some idle people being at play, on a Sunday, it thundred and lightned excessively, notwithstanding which, they continu'd their pastime, till they were all consum'd together with the house. Wednesday i4th August we lay at Pontefract, [8 miles. Expen. il. 8s. 6d.] a pretty Market Town, 44 A Journey to Edenborough It sends two Members to parliament, and is very famous for Liquorish, which grows in great abund- ance almost in every place, The people make black and white Cakes of it, which they send to London and all over England, being very good for colds, Here we saw that old Castle, memorable for the Murder of Richard the 2nd, And also for the brave defence it made in the Civill Warrs, but it's now onely a heap of ruines ; and the walls enclose a Garden or plantation of Liquorish, amongst the ruines they shew'd us a Cell, of which they told us the following Story, That the Castle being beseiged by the parliament, and reduc'd to great straits, the Governour offered to surrender, but finding the Enemy insisted upon the delivering up 6 persons, who they knew had been very serviceable to the King, the Governour broke off the Treaty, till he gott an opportunity to further their Escape, Upon which he made a Sally, in which four of the six escaped, But the Seige being push't on so vigorously, that the Governour must either expose his whole Garrison, or sacrifice the two Gentlemen, he (at their desire) surrendred having first enclos'd them in this Cell, with a Months provision, The Generall made a strict search for them, suspecting they were 45 A Journey to Edenborough still in the Castle, but not being able to discover them, and the Parliament not thinking it necessary, to maintain a Garrison there, ordered the works to be razed, and drew off their men, which gave the two Gentlemen a happy opportunity of making their escape, The fine Parke which belong'd to it, is all enclos'd by the Duke of Newcastle, who has got a Grant of it from the Crown, at the small rent of 61. per Ann., we saw the ruine of a fine old Church, near which are the remaines of many religious houses ; at a small distance is the Ministers house, which a Gentleman with us carry'd us to, where we took a view of the neatest necessary house I ever saw. Over the door of it was written (This is Plump Hall). On Fryday in the afternoon, we went to visit Mrs Wynn, with my Cozen Smith's kind Letter, but she being gone to Sir Rowland- Wynn's (her Brother) we went on for Wetherby, But as soon as we had got to a litle Town, about 2 miles off, it rain'd so excessively, that we were forc't to put up. In this place we found nothing curious but a fine Bridge over a River which runns by the Town, and it's remarkable, that there are very beautyfull bridges over every River in the North, About 5 in the Evening, it held up so went on, and arriv'd at 46 A Journey to Edenborough Wetherby [12 miles. Expen. 135.] about 10, having happily avoided loosing our way in the dark, This is a Market Town, famous for making course linnen cloth, we lay here, and next Morning sett out, for Knaisborough [6 miles. Expen. il.] over a Bridge, by which we past the Wherfe, and arriv'd there about 10, having rode some miles thro' a delicate Warren, stock't with white and black Rabbits, be- longing to Mr Plumpton, of Plumpton Castle, and the rest of the way over the Forrest of Knaisborough, The Town is but a litle old place ; when we first came to it, we past a Bridge over the River Nid, and as we were admiring the rapidity of the water, our Guide show'd us, in a neighb'ring Rock, a small Chappell hewn out by Art, dedicated to St. Robert. We went to the Upper end of the Town, scituated on a steep hill, where we saw the Ruines ot an Old Castle, famous in the Civill Warrs ; But our inten- tion being to visit the Spaw, we were oblig'd to return over the same bridge, and our Guide advis'd us by the way to see the dropping well, whereupon we dismounted and went to it, thro' an Old Woman's house, who shows it to Travellers ; There is a Rock, which seem'd to hang over our heads, very spungy 47 A Journey to Edenborough and porous, on the topp whereof is a small current from a Neighboring Spring, which spreading it self into the Cavityes, runns into soe many different streams, that as it falls down the declivity of the Rock, it breaks and seperates into innumerable drops, which are in continual motion, and seem to keep a musicall tune, neither changing their course nor altering their measure, in the most dry or moist weather, and I really beleive, no fountain of the greatest Artist can play equall to this naturall curi- osity ; But what is more wonderfull, the water is of a petrifying nature, and as it falls turns the moss into stone, yet receives not that virtue, till it has pas't thro' the Rock, (the Spring head which is on the topp of the Rock, having no other excellency than common water) When we had satisfied ourselves with the observations we had made below we all climb'd up the Rock to tast the water from the Spring head, which was very pleasant, and from thence returned to our horses, in order to goe to the Spaws, two miles out of Town : We first arriv'd at the sweet Spaw, which we tasted and found it to be a Minerall or Vitrioline water, of a deep colour, and from thence went to the Sulphurous Spaw, a litle distant, which we found extremely nauseous, and I A Journey to Edenborough believe, a mixture of Gunpowder, Ink, Gall, and Verjuice would give a farr more pleasant relish ; Yet some people drink 16 or 17 Glasses of it in a Morning, which they pretend is good for a Con- sumption, But for my part I only drunk one Glass for curiosity, and I am sure, had the repetition of it 20 times in my Stomach, The smell is so strong that one may scent it a quarter of a mile off, The people have Tubbs to bath in, and in 2 or 3 hours they prepare a Bath of this water in their own houses, which is good for all Aches and paines in the limbs, From this Spaw, we went to the cold Bath, about a Quarter of a Mile distant, which is but lately made, It's open to the Ayr, and inclos'd with a Stone wall, Mr Sloman went in first, and I shov'd in Mr Harrison, but they could not stay in above a Minute, I went in only, as high as my knees, and yet could bear it no longer, but when we came out, we glow'd excessively ; After we had got into Bed, and drunk a glass of Ale, we put on our cloaths, and went to the Exchange to raffle, where I won a Snush box, from thence we went to the Ordinary for the Enter- tainment of Travellers, and din'd, we had no Com- pany but our selves and a Minister of York, After Dinner we took our Leave of the Parson, not much G 49 A Journey to Edenborough edified by his conversation, and passing by Ribston hall, a pleasant seat of Sir Henry Goodricks, we arrived at York in the Evening, and lodg'd at the George, in Conie Street. York [14 miles. Expen. 4!. 55.] is a very auncient City, and has a noble Country round about it, I was soon charm'd with the sight of the pretty Ladyes, which are here very numerous, but particularly felt the impressions of one fair Angell, whose exquisite Beauty and ravishing Eyes justly gave her the name of the bright Seraphina, I could not forbear fancying myself in Paradice, so innocent were her looks, so genteel and airy her Carridge, so charming her dis- course, that 'twas impossible to resist such Divine influence, Yet I could obtain no other satisfaction than a killing glance, which serv'd only to encrease my flames, and aggravate my pain ; 'Tis no wonder, that instead of giving a description of the place, I beginn with an account of this admirable Lady, for as she employ'd all my thought whilst I was at York, so 'twill be naturall for me to think of her and nothing else, whilst I am writing my Survey of it, This City has the same hurry, and wratling of Hackny Coaches, as at London, so that a shower of Raine can't prevent the Beaux (who are numerous) 50 A journey to Edenborough from making themselves happy, in the Enjoyment of the Fair Sex ; As we came into the town, we past over a fine Bridge, built upon the River Owse, which from North to South gently glides along the whole City. Upon this Bridg are severall houses, and also a Gaol, But what we most observ'd is the noble Arch in the Midle, which the people inform'd us was 27 yards and 3 quarters wide, The principall rarity here is the Cathedrall, which is the finest Gothick Structure in England, and therefore deserves a more particular account, to compleat which, be- sides my own observations, I am oblig'd to a small historicall manuscript of Mr Samuell Gale, dedicated to his Father, late Dean of York. 1 The occasion of its first foundation was this, Edwin King of the Northumbers, a Pagan, married Edelburgh, Sister to Eabald, King of Kent, a Christian, Upon condition, that she and her Retinue should exercise their own religion ; With them was sent one Paulinus, a Reverend man, to administer the Holy Sacraments, and also by his preaching to convert the Infidells, 1 Francis Drake, the author of * Eboracum," published in 1736, states in his preface to that work that Samuel Gale had intended publishing a work on York, " but being called to a publick employ, his design dropped," and he had placed all his papers in his ^Drake's) hands. 51 A Journey to Edenborough who thereupon was consecrated first Archbishop of York, which was done by Justus Archbishop of Canterbury, 2ist July 625 ; Paulinus, as well by his preaching as by stratagem, prevail'd upon the King to embrace the Christian Religion, and con- verted the Nobility and Commonalty. The King (having agreed to be baptiz'd, and there being no Churches, as yet built) caused a litle Church to be erected, with boards and Timber, against the day appointed, in the City of York, which he devoutly dedicated, to the Honour of God, and St Peter, and was therein baptiz'd in the year of our Lord 627, and in the loth year of his Raigne. He also gave Paulinus an Archbishop's See in the same City, This was the first foundation of St peter's Church in York, Afterwards Codwall King of Wales came to warr against Edwin, and slew him, and Paulinus return'd to Kent againe : Oswald (who at his death was canoniz'd a Saint) succeeded Edwin, and being a Man of extraordinary piety, after he had reveng'd Edwin's death by slaying the King of Wales, gave orders for the building of Churches throughout all his Dominions, and coming himself to the City of York, in the same place where the Church of Timber built by Edwin stood, he caus'd a foundation for a 52 A Journey to Edenborough Fabrick of Stone to be laid in the year 632, and this was the second foundation of St Peters : Oswald after this reigned about tenn years, during which space St Peter's church was built and finish't, The King at length, being engaged in warr, was unfortunately slain by Penda a Pagan King of the Mercians, which involv'd the whole Kingdom againe in misery and trouble ; and by reason of continuall warrs, the See of York was vacant, from the departure of Paulinus, the first Archbishop, for the space of about 35 years: And the Barbarians sacrilegiously spoil't, rob'd, and levell'd with the ground St Peter's church ; But at length, in the year 666, Egfride who was then King of the Northumbers, appointed one Wilfride to be Archbishop of York, and he was sent to Agelbert Bishop of Paris, to be consecrated, but staying there too long, the King compell'd one Cedda, a very religious man, to thrust himself into Wilfride's place, who govern'd in his station, during Wilfrid's absence, very carefully, But upon his return, by admonition of the Archbishop of Canterbury, he forsook it, and was made Bishop of Litchfield ; Now Wilfrid in 666 began to build up the Church again, and finish't it, and presented it with such rich gifts, that it ap- pear'd in great Splendour and beauty : Albert (after S3 A Journey to Edenborough the death of Wilfrid) and some other Bishops, suc- ceeded to the See, and in 762, built a Library, and adorn'd it with his own books, and dyed four years after. This building added to the Church, It ap- pear'd in it's full Lustre and perfection, and so it continu'd for more than the space of 300 years, till the Reign of William the Conquerour ; Aldred being then Archbishop, at which time the Cathedrall Church, together with the whole City, was againe lamentably destroy'd by fire, which was occasion'd by the Normans, who then kept the Castle ; For the Danes having invaded the Country, the Normans set fire to the houses near the Castle, least they might be an advantage to the Enemy in filling up the ditches, But the wind so increas't the flames, that they consum'd the whole City and Cathedrall, and the Danes got in, and slew 3000 Normans, saving none but one William Mallet, his wife, and 2 children, and a few others, After which they re- turn'd home, having made a vast havock in the country, But when things were a litle compos'd the King placd Thomas the Elder, a Canon of Bayon, a Norman by Birth, in the Archbishop's See, vacant by the death of Aldred, who in 1068, laid a founda- tion of the Cathedrall Church, and finish't it, and 54 A Journey to Edenborough built an Hall, and this was the last entire foundation of St Peter's, at York, by one person ; Yet in 1 1 37, in the Reign of Henry the First, the Cathedrall Church was again consum'd with fire, and lay in mines 31 years, in which space 2 Archbishops suc- ceeded, But Archbishop Roger in 1171 began to new build the Quire, with its vaults, and also his Palace ; and he founded the Chappell of St Sepulchre, and Holy Angells, on the North side of the Church, near the Palace gate, but this Chappell was demolish't in the reign of Henry the 8th : The Quire after a long time, was again pull'd down, and the spatious Quire now standing, erected in its place by John Thursby in 1362, But to the Old Quire, Walter Grey added the south part of the Cross Nave, or Body of the Church, The pillars of which are part artificiall, or counterfit Marble, and part White stone, The Midle part is White stone, About it are set small columns of Artificiall Marble, the Chapiters being very curiously carv'd. This was begun in 1227. The Archbishop finish't the same in some yeares after : He liv'd to be very aged, and dyed in 1255, and was interr'd in this South part of the Church, and over him is erected a stately Monument, representing him at full length, in his Archiepiscopall 55 A Journey to Edenborough habit, lying under a Canopy supported by Eight marble pillars ; This monument remaines to this day as beautifull as it was at first : It is made of the same artificiall Marble, as the Pillars of this part of the Church ; After this part was finish't by Walter Gray, in 1250, in the reign of King Edward the First, John Romane then Chantor of York, began to build the North part of this Cross Isle, as also a beautifull Tower in the midle of the Church, both which he finish't, and being afterwards consecrated Archbishop in 1285, He in the year 1291, laid the first stone of the great Body or Nave of the Church, on the South side, but did not live to see it finish't, However William de Melton, who was consecrated Archbishop at Avignion, 25th of September 1317, soon took in hand the finishing of the Church, and now Architecture was arriv'd to a great perfection, and the Church was so nobly and magnificently com- pleated, that it exceeded the best structures in Eng- land, Two lofty towers appear in the front at the west end of the Church ; In the South Tower is a Ring of 12 excellent Bells, upon which at certain hours, the chimes play various tunes, between the two Towers is a large window of painted glass, adorn'd with the EfHgies of severall Bishops, and 56 A Journey to Edenborough variety of History. This window gives light to the whole Nave of the Church, which containes in length, from the west door to the Great Lanthern, Eight Arches, Over the sides of every Arch, is the Coat of Arms of some Benefactor to the Church, cut out in stone ; The upper windows of the Nave are very spatious, adorn'd with severall Coats of Arms, painted in the Glass, In one window on the side Isle, is painted a procession of Apes in Preists habits, The Canopy or Roofe, and the great knots in which are centered the carv'd beams or ribbs which support the Canopy, are all curiously carv'd, In one, the History of the Salutation of the blessed Virgin, In a 2nd the Nativity of our Saviour, and his lying in a Manger, with the Beasts feeding at the Range, very naturally done, In a 3rd, our Saviour in the Virgin's Lap, the Wisemen offering to him, In a fourth the Virgin Mary, and Angells adoring her, In a 5th, our Saviour surrounded with Angells, In a 6th, amidst his 12 Apostles, In a yth, the Holy Ghost descending upon the Apostles, In the 8th, and last of this Row, the Virgin Mary in Rays of Glory. In the lesser knots, are carv'd flowers of severall sorts, Which are curiously guilt, and the Canopy is painted, but some- what decayed by Age ; This noble Structure was H 57 A Journey to Edenborough finish' t in the year 1330, by the Archbishop, with some Contributions of the Gentry of those times, especially the Vavasor's, and peircy's, whose Effigies are cut out in Stone on each side over the Arch of the West door with their respective Coats of Arms, Vavasor holds a Stone, and Peircy a peice of Timber, Their Effigies are also at the East end, in Armour, much after the manner of Knights Templars. William de Melton dyed in 1340, and was buryed here under a large blew stone, with his Effigies and Epitaph, engraven on Brass plates, which are now defac't, This Noble Church was thus compleated by severall additions, but not altogether uniform, the Weste parte much exceeding the East, which is the Quire, till John Thursby in 1361, puird it down, and re- built it the year following, as it now is, containing in length nine Arches, The Side Isles are arch't over, with stone, and brick, The midle Isle is cover'd with with a Canopy of wood, adorn'd with large knots, carv'd and guilt, The windows are painted with the Effigies of severall Saints, and Bishops, and diverse historyes, The largest and finest of the Windows are those 2 that give light to the Altar, One opposite to the other, reaching in height almost to the Roofe of the Church, and the East window, almost the 58 breadth, and heighth of the Midle Isle, being divided into 1 08 partitions, each representing some sacred History (Except the lower part) In the Upper part, is the Creation of the world, representing Chaos, and the Almighty commanding all things into Being, Adam and Eve in Paradice, their Fall and Ejection, Noah's Floud, The Tower of Babell, and the like, In the Midle part, is the whole Revelation of Saint John, In the lower part, are the Effigies of sevcrall Christian Kings and Bishops, particularly Lucius, Ethelbert, and Edwyn, Gregory, Augustine, and Paulinus, Thus the whole Cathedrall became per- fectly beautifull, only it wanted a spatious Lanthorn in the Midle, instead of that built by John Romane, which was too low, and therefore soon pull'd down, and a new one, which now overlooks the two Towers at the West End, erected, at the cost of Walter Skirlaw, then Prebendary of Fenton, in this Church, in the year 1 370, This Lanthorn is square, standing upon four spatious Arches, supported by large Pillars, There are many small Columns, and the Chapiters are neatly carv'd, and over each arch are two Coats of Arms supported by Angells, Those over the South Arch, are the Arms of the Church, and of Walter Skirlaw, Above the Arches is a Gallery 59 A Journey to Edenborough leading from each side of the Lanthorn, A little higher are 8 Spatious windows, and the Roore is adorn'd with diverse Knotts, and guilt like the rest of the Church, The Dimensions of the Church, taken by an ingenious Architect, are to be seen in the new addition of Camden's Britannia, so I shall referr to those particulars, and proceed to give a small descrip- tion of the Chapter House, which very well deserves the Character, a stranger gave of it, in the following verse Ut Rosa, flos riorum, sic est domus ista, domorum. Englisht thus, As the fair Rose, the flower of Flowers we call, So this proud Dome the stateliest is of All. The Latin Verse is written in the Saxon Char- acter, in Gold, on the North side of the door ; This Chapter house is built in an Octagon ; At the Entrance stands the Image of the Virgin Mary, crown'd, trampling upon a Serpent painted and guilt, embracing our Saviour in her Arms, In the inside of the door were the Images of our Saviour and his 12 Apostles, cast in Silver, but have since been taken away ; All about the sides of the Dome 60 are Seats or stalls, for the Canons or Prebendaries of the Church, arch't over, and every Arch is supported by small Marble Pillars, which seperate each Seat : Over these Arches, which are built like Canopys to every Seat, is a Gallery that goes quite round the chapter house, extraordinary well painted, Here we observ'd some Antick postures, both of Men and Beasts, very diverting, In one place, is a man cut out half way as if he was thrusting, and striving with his whole strength, to get out of a window or some narrow passage, In another are severall faces with different Aspects, One seemM to be an Hera- clitus, crying with excess of passion, another appeard like a Democritus, in a merry fit of laughter, and a 3rd in a Grimace, making wry mouths and ugly postures. I will not determine the Artists design in placing these figures, Whether upon assembling of the Members of the Church, they should put them in mind to do nothing worthy laughter or repent- ance, Or whether the ist wept, the 2nd laught, and the 3rd made ridiculous postures at the Vanity and indecency of an old bald-pated Fryer, who is repre- sented kissing a Young Nun in a Corner, whilst in the Chapiters of the Pillars are plac't the desponding faces of some other emulatious Nuns, as well old as 61 young peeping at them, and observing the Intrigue of the old amorous Fryar, Other Chapiters represent leaves of severall Trees Fruits and Flowers, some guilt, and others painted, A litle above the Gallery are the large and beautyfull windowes, adorn'd with diverse Coats of Arms and other devices, as alsoe the figures of severall penances, being 7 in all ; On a Wall are painted the Effigies of severall Kings and Bishops, The most admirable Curiosity of this Chapter house is it's vast breadth, which containes from side to side, 63 foot, tho' the printed dimensions say but 58 and an half, The canopy is not supported by a Pillar, but by the Geometricall contrivance of a Finn or plugg, plac't exactly in the Center, and the whole Canopy is adorn'd with fine knots, and severall Effigies ; Above the Canopy is erected a noble structure of Timber of a great highth, in the nature of a Spire, whereon is plac't a Globe or Ball, and the Outside is covered with lead, The work of this Chapter house, seems to be the same as the West part of the Church, and perhaps finish' t by the same hands, In the Civill warrs, the Rebells had lik't to have destroy'd it, but were prevented by the death of the cheif Contriver, however they broke open the Tombs of severall Kings, Bishops, and 62 A Journey to Edenborough Martyrs, and threw their bones against the Glasse windowes, But now the Cathedrall is as splendid, and beautifull, and in as good Repair as any in England, And 'tis very observable, that tho' from the beginning of the building of the Church by Archbishop Gray, to the finishing of it by Walter Skirlaw, 1 5 1 years are numbered, yet the care of the builders was so great, in making the severall parts and proportions exact and uniform, that it seems to be an entire building, tho' some parts look more auncient than others ; There have been 75 Arch- bishops of York, Paulinus was the first, and Dr Sharp is the present Archbishop, who was conse- crated in 1692 : The valuation of the Archbishoprick, in the Queen's book is loool. per ann, And the Deanry is 308!. los. /d. : The most famous Monu- ments in the Cathedrall are those of the Earle of Strafford and his Lady, and of the Archbishops Dolben, and Lamplugh, There are severall others of Inferiour Order, but Haxpeares tomb l on the West side the Nave of the Church is most noted, tho' 'tis 1 The tomb here referred to appears to be that of Thomas Haxey, or Haxby, Treasurer of York Minster 1418-25. In 1736, when the nave was repaired, the monument was removed to its present position in the west aisle of the north transept. 63 A Journey to Edenborough but a plaine Stone, because there the Catholicks pay their Adoration, and a tender of monys due upon Bond or other writings, is generally made upon it, We could not leave the Church without going up to the topp of the Lanthorn, where we had a fine view of the Neighb'ring Country, and of many fine seats and ruines, particularly that of SherrifF Button's Castle. I have been so particular, in describing the Minster of York, because 'tis one of the Archiepis- copall Sees of this Kingdom, The Archbishop's palace is a litle out of Town, where he usually re- sides ; The next curiosity is the Ruin of St Mary's Abby, scituated on the Banck of the River Owse, without the walls of the City ; 'Twas a very noble Monastery, and its peculiarly remarkable, that only the Abbots of St Mary, and of Selby near York, of all the Northern parts, were admitted to sit in Par- liament ; St Mary's was founded by Alen, the 3rd Earle of Bretaigne, in Armorica, and of Richmond in England, and was very plentifully endowed, but in process of time, upon the Dissolution of Monasteryes, It underwent the fate of Confiscation ; It's Revenue being then 2085!. is. 5d. three farthings per Ann, and so was converted into a Royall Pallace, and at this day goes by the name of the Manour. These A Journey to Edenborough mines represent to us at once, both the inveteracy of time, and the Piety of our Auncestors, who have every where left us such publick marks of their Zeal for the honour of God ; The next thing remarkable is the Ruine of the Castle, built by William the Conqueror, near which is lately erected a Noble Fabrick for the County Gaol, which cost about Soool. ; It is all of Stone, and one of the finest buildings of that sort in England, The Shell of Cliffords Tower which was blown up in 1684, is also worth notice, The City of York was made a County incorporate by Richard the 2nd., And the Major has the Honour to be addrest with the Tytle of Lordship, It sends but two Members to Parlia- ment, tho' it's not only a liberty of itself, but has also a Jurisdiction over the neighb'ring Country, on the West side for some miles, which is call'd the Liberty of the Ainsty of York, and is distinct from the County of Yorkshire, which is a great hardship upon the Inhabitants, For (as we were inform'd) they can neither vote in the City or County for Members of Parliament, The Guildhall has a Window, curi- ously painted, by that famous Artist, Mr Gyles of York, to whome we made a Visit upon my account, I having a particular Obligation to him when I was i 65 A Journey to Edenborough in Yorkshire, once before with my Lord Fairfax ; He show'd us the draught of a Window which I saw at my Lord Fairfax's house, at Denton, and also a Ship, intended to be set up in Greenwitch Hospitall, The Queens Armes, and the Prophets, for Wadham Colledge, all admirably well done ; We went after- afterwards to see the Old Waterhouse, from whence, we had a fine view of the City, and also the Pave- ment, or cheif Market place, and the New Cross, in Thursday's market, and the Bagnio in Cony street, which is very neat and comodious, being lately built, I shall conclude my account of York with this char- acter ; that 'tis a place capable of great improve- ments, for the River Owse might easily be made navigable, which would soon render it a very flourish- ing City ; Every thing is cheap about it, so that they have an opportunity of making their Manufac- tures at low rates, But the people are so lazy, that they loose all these advantages of Art and nature, and Hull, a Seaport Town about 50 miles distant, grows rich upon their Ruine, However they are to be commended for their excellent Causeways, leading to the City, which are kept in very good repair for some miles round, We staid till 2oth August at York, at which time we left it, early in the Morning, 66 A Journey to Edenborough and had fine travelling thro' an open Country, and severall noble Seats, at a distance from the Road, and about 10 in the Morning arriv'd at Malton [14 miles. Expen. 55.] a small Market Town, in the North riding of Yorkshire, having taken a view of the fine Seat which my Lord Car- lisle is building near it : This place is wasn't by the River Derwent, and has nothing remarkable but the ruines of an old Castle, or rather it's foundation, formerly belonging to the Vescys ; once a famous and flourishing family in these parts, and also 2 Churches, The Spire of one of which was blown off" by the late great Storm in November 1703, We only staid here to breakfast, and so went on to Scarbrough [16 miles. Expen. 135.] where we got about six in the Evening, and set up at the post- house, but there being very indifferent Entertain- ment, we were forc't to remove to a neighbring house, where we had a more civill Landlady (tho' litle better accommodations), As soon as we had given orders for our Supper, we went to see the Spaw, which is near a quarter of a Mile South from the Town, on the Sea shore, at the foot of a very high Cliff, The Sea overflows the well every Tyde, but it hapned not to be floud whilst we were there, 67 A Journey to Edenborough so we had an opportunity to make our observations, and tast the waters : We were told, that as soon as the well is emptyed of the Sea water, it springs up imediately like a boyling pot, and 'tis observable that in the most droughty years it is never dry ; The water is of a pleasant tast, tho' the smell of it is much like Ink ; it's fresh and clear, and proceeds from a par- ticipation of Vitrioll, Salt, Iron, Alum and Nitre , Upon the top of the Rocks are severall pleasure houses, which command a noble prospect of the Sea, as well as of the neighb'ring Country ; Most of the Gentry of the North of England and Scotland resort hither in the Season of the year, but we hapned to be something of the latest ; We return'd from the Spaw, by the Sea coast, to the Castle, which is now in ruines. It's scituated on a prodigious steep rock, overlooking the whole Town and contains about 60 acres within it's walls ; It has a fine Spring, and might (if well fortified) command the neighboring Seas ; we climb'd up this Rock with a great deale of danger, but when we had got up to the walls, we were extremely disappointed, for there being but one Entrance, we were obliged to go quite round to the Drawbridge, before we could get in, the Rock being so steep, that we could not safely venture down again 68 A Journey to Edenborough with our Boots on ; At last, after a great deale of labour, we entred the gate and found nothing, but decayed walls which we mounted, and walk't round ; This Castle was first built by William Le Gross Earle of Albemarle, and Holderness, but being in time destroy'd, was rebuilt by Henry the 2nd. From hence we return'd to our Inn, where we lay all night, The greatest trade of this place is the Fishery, of which they have great plenty, and supply the City of York tho' 30 miles off. The next Morning early, we left Scarbrough and travell'd thro' a dismall road, particularly near Robin Hoods bay, we were oblig'd to lead our horses, and had much ado to get down a vast craggy mountain, which lyes within a quarter of a mile of it ; This place they say, received its name from the famous Robin Hood, who is generally made use of for a Sign to most publick houses in this Country, The Bay is about a mile broad, and inhabited by poor fishermen, we stop't to tast some of their liquor, and discourse with them ; They told us the French Privateers came into the very Bay ; and took 2 of their Vessells but the day before, which were ran- som'd for 25!. a peice ; This gave us an occasion of reflecting on the conduct of those who have it in 69 A Journey to Edenborough their power to preserve the fishery of England, which would support many thousand familyes, yet suffer it to be destroy'd by the French, without giving it the least assistance or encouragement, We saw a great many vessels, lying upon the Shoar, the Masters not daring to venture out to Sea, for fear of undergoing the same fate ; 'Tis very observable, that some of these Fishermen never go 10 miles from home by land in all their lives, and yet we found them as sharp as any people whatsoever ; And indeed, that observation may be made all over the North, but whether it proceeds from their Genius, or the effect of their Climate, I know not, however we found it by ex- perience, for coming to a poor Woman's house in a litle Village, where we had scarce room to sit down, we call'd for a Mugg or two of her drink, and some bread, for which she ask't us is. 4d.; but when we came to reccon with her, we found it amounted to no more than lod ; Yet she insisted upon her de- mand, which we paid her, that we might say we had once satisfied a Northern Conscience, After we had diverted ourselves, at Robin Hoods Bay we went on to Whitby [12 miles. Expen. IDS.] a Seaport Town, and got there about one in the Afternoon ; This is 70 A Journey to Edenborough a very commodious Haven, pleasantly seated, at the fall of the River Eske into the Sea, it has a fine Bridge, and a Custom house, and there are many Ships belonging to the Town, but upon Enquiry, I was inform'd it's trade is very much decay'd, They have extraordinary good herrings, but every thing else very indifferent ; Upon a steep rock hard by (which was very difficult to ascend with our horses) is the Ruin of a noble Abby, built by Hilda, in the Infancy of the Saxon Church, Edelfleda, King Oswin's daughter, endow'd it with large Revenues, but at length it was destroy'd by the barb'rous Danes, and Ser W. Percius (after the Conquest being made Governour) rebuilt it again ; yet it has undergone the fate of other Religious houses, and still remains as a noble Monument of its former Grandeur, being one of the finest peices of ruin in the Kingdom ; It now belongs to the Family of the Cholmly's, who have a noble Seat adjoining to it, And here I can't forbear taking notice (in honour to the Memory of a Predecessor of that Estate) of the great Veneration he had for Antiquity, who would not so much as suffer one stone of those ruines to be touch't, for the building of his own house, which the people grate- fully acknowledged, as an argument of his piety : A Journey to Edenborough From the top of this Rock, where this Abby stands, we had a delicate prospect, of the neighbring Sea ; After we had wandred about these Solitary remains for some time, we returned to our Inn, by 3, and set forward on our Journy ; About a mile out of Town, we saw the Fine Allum works on the Sea shore, which belong to the Duke of Buckingham ; we had the favour of going into the works, and taking notice of every thing, which put us upon a stricter inquiry, into the method of making it, upon which, the Overseer of the works very civilly oblig'd us with this account. They first digg the Allum stone, or Mine, from the adjacent Rock, and burn it in great heaps with wood ; After that, they barrow it in a Pit, which is generally about 10 foot long, 6 foot broad, and some 7 fourths of a yard deep : In this pit it's steep't in water, above 10 hours : Then they draw out the liquor, which is but a Lixivium, impregnated by the Allum mine, into troughs, where by it's convey'd to the Allum house, into a deep Cistern of about 20 yards circumference, and more than 3 yards deep ; After this first water is drawn off the Mine in the Pits, they pour fresh water a 2nd time on it, and after the 2nd water is drawn off", which must needs be much weaker than the first, 72 A Journey to Edenborough they throw out the Mine, which is spent, and put in fresh, and pour water on that as before ; Out of the Cistern, they convey the Lixivium by troughs to the pans, which are fix't upon a Furnace, where they generally boile it for a day and a night, Then they take off the liquor out of the pans, and weigh it, to know how much Lee (which is made of Kelp) it will require, which is for the most part six inches of the depth of the Pan, Now as soon as the liquor is boil'd, or flows up, (this Lee, being put in) they have an Iron instrument to draw it off in to a Setler, and there let it stand about an hour, that so the Sulphur and other dreggs may setle to the bottom, which being done, it's drawn off into Coolers, where it continues about 4 or 5 days, And when the Cooler is about half full, which may then be suppos'd to contain about a Tunn, they pour it into 8 Gallons of Urine. After it has stood that time, and being quite coole, and the Allum crystallized to the sides of the Cooler, Then they scoop out the Liquor, which they call the Mother, into a Cistern, and put it into the pans again with Fresh Lixivium, to be evaporated by boyling and other means, but the Allum, which is crystalliz'd on the sides of the Cooler, they scrape off, and wash with clean Spring water, and then K 73 A Journey to Edenborough throw it into a Vessell, where the water drains from it, From thence they remove it into a pan, which they call the Rocking pan, where it's melted, and then scoop't out and convey'd by troughs into Tuns, in which it stands about seaven dayes or more, till it's perfectly condens'd : Then they unhoop and stave the Tunns, and the Allum being in a solid cake (if I may soe call it) they break into pieces, and carry into the Storehouse, where we saw a great deale, which look't as clear as Chrystall : Mr Ray (a Fellow of the Royall Society) has given much the same account of these Allum works, however I was the more desirous, to be particular in it, because we were show'd all the Vessells and Coolers, and the severall pans and Furnaces before mentioned : The Kelp which is us'd in the Allom works, is made all along the Sea shore, by gathering the Sea wrack, and laying it in heaps to dry, and then burning it a litle till it Cakes, but they prevent its burning to Ashes, by stirring it continually with Iron Rakes, When the tyde is gone from these shores, it leaves a world of Sea weeds behind it, which as we rode along, were very offensive to us : Not far from the Allom works, is Mulgrave Castle, which Cambden says was built by peter de Malo Lacu, however from 74 thence they tell us, the Duke received his tytle of Earle, and that of Marquess from a litle place called Normanby, not fair from Whitby : After we had rewarded the workmen that attended us, we pro- ceeded on our Road, having a Guide with us, thro the vast Moores, which lye betweene Whitby and Gisburgh. We arriv'd at Gisburgh, [16 miles. Expen. is. ad.] about 5 in the Evening, and staid there but a litle while, to bait. It's about 4 miles from the Mouth of the River Tees, scituated on a rising ground extremely pleasant ; We saw the Ruine of that beautifull and rich Monastery, built about the year 1119 by Robert Le Brus Lord of the place; The Town has a very handsom market, and the people seem'd to be very neat, and genteel : Mr Chaloner has a very pretty seat on one side, and here have formerly been some Allom works, which are now decay'd : There was nothing worth notice in this Afternoon's Journy, Except a prodigious steep mountain, near Gisburgh, call'd Ounsberry or Rose- berry Topping, which appears at a great distance, and is a Landmark to Mariners : We went from Gisburgh about 6, and rode hard to Stockton that Evening, passing by Sir William Hustler's house at 75 A Journey to Edenborough Acklam in Cleveland, which is a very pretty seat, and also crossing the Tees in a Ferryboat, near Stockton. Stockton [8 miles. Expen. i6s.] is a neat Town seated upon the River Tees, and is the first Town, in the County palatine of Durham, in our Road : It has a fine market place, in one long street ; The trade consists most in Timber and Deals from Nor- way, of which we saw vast Piles ; we lay at the Post house Tuesday night, and on Wednesday 22nd August, early in the Morning, set forward for Dur- ham, thro' Sedgfeild, and had all along a very plea- sant Journy : We saw a great many fine Seats near the Road, and I may justly say, that this charming Country shows that the Clergy are as good Judges in Temporall, as in Spirituall affairs : Within a litle mile of Durham, we staid at a Village to drink, at the Sign of the Emperors head ; Under the Sign was wrote (Al Empereur) we had a mind to make ourselves merry, and so pretended to be Ffrench men, and our Man Harry was to be our Interpreter ; We ask't the Fellow in broken English, what he call'd the sign ; he answered the Kings head, we told him, that by the French written underneath it, 'twas call'd the Emperor's head : O ! dear, says the Man, 76 now I remember, the Painter who sent it from London, said 'twas the Emperor of Albanys head, but we undeceiv'd him by telling him 'twas the Emperor of Germanys : We ask't him what he call'd the Pot, and the Ale, by pointing to them, who to make us understand the better, told us 'Twas de Pot and de Vary good Aule, thinking that this Sort of broken language was most easy for us to apprehend : We talk't a litle Italian to one another, and in the mean time the Fellow went up to Harry, and ask't him if he could understand us, and who we were ; Harry answer'd, the Great Mans Sons at Notting- ham, which made the fellow very submissive, and his wife coming to see us in a great hurry, we burst out a laughing, and had lik't to have discovered our contrivance : after we had sufficiently imposed upon the ignorance of the Man, we left him, and went to Durham, thro' a very pleasant Grove, and arriv'd there about 2 a Clock. Durham [14 miles. Expen. il. 175.] is surrounded on three sides by the River Were, and is built on a hill, so that the scituation is extremely pleasant and healthy, and yeilds a fine prospect at a distance ; when we came thro' the Suburbs, we crost the stone bridge over the River, whereon are built severall 77 A Journey to Edenborough litle houses, or Shops, and by an easy ascent came to the City Gate, next to which, is the Posthouse, where we lay : The next day, after we arriv'd here, being the 23rd August ; which was the thanksgiving day for the Success of the Duke of Marlborough in forcing the French lines in Brabant, we had a good opportunity of observing the Ecclesiastical Grandeur : In the Morning the City Banners, with Musick before them, were carry'd to the Bishops Palace, who came from his Country seat on purpose for this Solemnity, and attended him to the Church door, where the Dean and Prebends in their habits met him, and conducted him to his Throne, and the Chancellor, Mr Dormer, being in Town the same day, made up the Cavalcade : We were entertain'd at the Cathedrall, with a fine Anthem, sung before the Queen at Cambridge besides other usuall per- formances. I must not omit taking notice of the seaven Copes of Velvet and Silk, which are us'd there in divine Service at the Altar ; They are most curiously wrought, and express the severall historys of the Bible, and other particular passages relating to our Saviour, all in needlework : In these habits, the preists look like Monarchs triumphant, and since we are so happy as to have reform'd from Romish 78 A Journey to Edenborough Idolatry, I could not forbear calling these relicts of their pride, Rich Raggs of the Whore of Babylon : After Sermon, we went about the Cathedrall, and observ'd it had suffer'd very much by the barb'rous Scots, who, as they have done in other places, so they have here also left to posterity, certain tokens of their inhumanity. The Font, and the Clock, which tells the Age of the Moon, the day of the week, and the hour of the day, and the Altar piece of stone, are very fine : At the East end of the Altar were formerly nine other Altars, at each of which, in superstitious times, people paid adoration to some Saint, which was plac't in every Altar : Behind the Altar is erected the Tomb of St Cuthbert, Patron ol the Church, and near it we saw severall Dents, worn in the Stone by the constant Worshippers of his Shrine : After the Dissolution of Monasterys, St Cuthbert was removed from behind the Altar into the Cloysters, where at present he lyes buryed : On the South side of the Quire is erected the Bishop's Throne upon the spatious Tomb of Bishop Hatfield, Out of the Church, we went into the Cloysters, which, with the Library, deserv'd a particular ob- servation : On the Out side of the Church, on a wall, is carv'd a Dun Cow, of which there is a fabulous 79 A Journey to Edenborough Story, as if from her, the Town had deriv'd its name ; The first foundation of this Cathedrall was by Bishop Aldwin in 995, But William de Carelepho, the Bishop in William the Conqueror's time, pull'd it down, and began a more stately one, which was finisht by Radulph his successor, and enlarged with other buildings, by Nicholas Fernham Bishop, and Thomas Melcomb the prior, in 1242, and after that William Skirlaw the Bishop, built that part which is call'd the Gallilee : We went afterwards to see the Castle, which overlooks the whole Town, being as it were on the very Summit of the Hill, This Castle was built by the English, who growing weary of the Norman Yoake, retir'd to Dunholm alias Durham, then almost inaccessible by reason of many woods, and waters, But afterwards, William the Conqueror confirm'd all their priviledges, and new built the Castle as it now is ; There's nothing extraordinary except the fine Terrass towards the River, where one may walk with all the pleasure in the world, having a prospect of a most delicate Country, and of two fine bridges over the River, which encompasses the Town on all sides, except the North : The buildings are very handsom, particularly those belonging to the Prebends, and the streets very neat : It is the 80 A Journey to Edenborough principal! Town of the County, which being a Palatinate, had formerly great Prerogatives, but their power was most abridg'd by Harry the 8th. It con- taines five Churches, of which, next to the Minster, St Nicholas is cheif ; There are also the Courts of Justice, in the palace yard, where the Bishops formerly sat, even in Cases of blood, tho' it's against the Cannon : There is a Temporall Chancellor for the Law business, who generally comes into the Town twice a year, attended with a great number of horse, which we saw whilst we were there, and the Bishop seldom travells without a Retinue of horse, There are great possessions belonging to this Bishopprick, which gives it the repute of being the richest in England, but I could not find the Town has any great trade, and I believe Sunderland a populous place on the Southern Bank of the Were, being enrich't by the Coal trade, may be the occasion of it : For that Town, if the Harbour was deep enough for ships of great Burthen, would undoubt- edly draw some part of the trade, even from New- castle itself: After we had view'd the whole City, we return'd to our Inns, and sent for one of the Singing Boys, to entertain us with some Songs, who amongst the rest, sung a Catch upon the Queen, set L 81 A Journey to Edenborough by the Organist of Durham, 1 which being new, we took a Copy of it, A Catch on Queen Ann Here's a health to Queen Ann, Who said from her Throne, That her heart was true English, As well as our own ; And the Church, fix't by Law, Was resolv'd to maintain, Thro' the Course of her Life, And the Course of her Reign, Then we need not to fear any dangers to come, Whilst our arms rule abroad, and our Queen reigns at Home. In the afternoon of the thanksgiving day we set out for Newcastle, having a post boy for our Guide, and pass'd by Chester in the street, and Lumly Castle, an Old Seat of the Earle of Scarbrough's and arriv'd at Gateshead, the Suburbs of Newcastle, about 5 in the Evening, but saw the Town some few miles before we came to it on the Top of a hill : We 1 The organist of Durham at this period was William Greggs. No published compositions of his seem now to be known. 82 A Journey to Edenborough went over the spatious and fair bridge, built cross the Tine, and took up our Lodgings at Mr CanadyV house, a Scotchman, at the Sign of the Bull, in the Market place, The Entrance of the Town is some- thing fateiguing by reason of it's steep ascent [New- castle upon Tine 12 miles. Expen. 9!. 6s. 8d.]. There were great rejoicings, as well at this Town as at Durham, upon account of the Thanksgiving day, so that we saw it in it's greatest splendour : At our first arrivall, There was a very large Bonefire, over against the Town-hall, and the Major and Aldermen, having been feasting there, were return- ing home as we came to Town, and walk't with as great pomp, and state, as ours at London, with the Mace, and sword, and Cap of maintenance, born before them ; On the top of the hill, where the Town is built, stands an Old Castle, near the Sessions house for the County, now turn'd into a Goale : 'Twas built by Robert Son to William the Con- 1 Kennedy. In the Scots Courant for July 25, 1 7*5* an advertise- ment appears as follows : " Whereas it was given out that Andrew Kennedy in Newcastle had given over Trade and Publick Business. These are to certify, that the same is malicious and false ; he only having removed to the new great Inn called the Black Bull and Crown at the Foot of the Side, where is good Accommodation for Men and Horses, etc." 83 A Journey to Edenborough queror, From thence we went to see the severall Churches, Five in Number, of which St Nicholas is the cheif; It's almost like a Cathedrall and the Tower or Steeple is of Gothick work, The Major and Aldermen go to it every Sunday in great State, and they generally have excellent preaching : The only monument remarkable, is that of Mr Weldon, of whom we heard the following Story, That being upon the Road, he was surpriz'd by 2 highway men, and knock't off his horse, and one of them got upon him and rob'd him, But Weldon being a strong man, soon recovered, and taking the Highway man in his Arms, threw him over a hedge, which so surpriz'd the Fellow, that he told him if he would throw over his horse too, he would give him his mony again, which Weldon accordingly did, and the highway men were glad to escape without their prize : We took the more particular notice of this Monument, because the Arms engraven on it were exactly the same with those of our friend Mr Weldon of Swans- comb in Kent ; The next Church most famous, is that of St Andrew's, to all the Inhabitants of which parish, they told us, the Pope many ages ago, gave a generall pardon for 9000 years for all sins whatso- ever, which they had, should, or might commit : 84 The rest of the Churches are not remarkable ; We went next to see the Bowling Green, which is very neat being maintain'd at the Expence of the Town, There are fine shady walks all round it, in which the Ladys often divert themselves ; The next thing curious, is the house built by the Town for the use of the Major pro tempore, which is as fine as some of the best Halls in London ; Sir William Blacket's house, 1 together with his good Character, is also very much to be comended : It makes a pretty ap- pearance, and the Gardens are very Neat ; The Kings of England, in their progress to these parts, usually lye at this house, and it has been famous for the Entertainment of King Charles the 2nd. 2 We were show'd the Gardens where he made his Escape, from his barb'rous Persecutors, when he was betray 'd, From thence we went to see the Custom house, 1 This mansion was built in 1580 by Robert Anderson, Merchant, and in 1675 was conveyed to Sir William Blackett. In 1782 it was purchased by Mr George Anderson, and called by him " Anderson Place." After the death of his son, Major Anderson, the house was demolished during the formation of Grey Street. 2 A slip of the writer, it being Charles I., not Charles II., who resided here. The house was occupied by the King during his detention in Newcastle by the Scots in 1646. In December of that year he tried to escape, but the attempt failed, owing to a letter giving details of the plan having fallen into the hands of the Mayor of Newcastle. 85 A Journey to Edenborough which is a fine Pile of building, and also the Town hall, where are the Pictures of King Charles the and., and King James the 2nd., we walk't afterwards on the Key, along the Banks of the Tine, which is very pleasant, and came back upon the Terrasse made on the wall, which runs from one end of the Key to the other ; we saw also the new hospitall, call'd the Keelman's Hospitall. It maintains persons and every Keelman pays id. a Tide to support it : A gentlewoman has settled 20!. per Ann. here for the Education of 34 poor children of St John parish, they are taught to read write and cast accounts, and every child that is discharged has a Bible Comon- prayer Booke and whole Duty of man given him. Another gentlewoman has settled 6ol. per Ann. after her decease for 2 other Charity schools in the par- ishes of St John and St Nicholas, the one for Boys, the other for Girls, and the 3rd parte of xoool. lately bequeathed to charitable use, is to be applyed to the erecting a school in St Andrews parish. The trade of this Town, consists most in Coles, Iron, Cinders for Malt, and Salt ; Corn and Victualls are very cheap, and on a Market day there is almost as great a show as in Leaden hall : We were told, the Revenue of the Town, which arises cheifly out of Coales and 86 A Journey to Edenborough Ballast, amounts to near io,oool. per arm, which makes it the most flourishing Town in the North of England ; They have a very advantagious proverb amongst them, which is, that they pay nothing, for the Way, the Word, nor the water, for the Ministers are maintain'd, the streets pav'd, and the Conduits kept up, at the publick charge of the Town. The Major is allow'd 700!. per Ann, for his Table, and every Judge that comes thither is all the while treated at the publick charge, and carry'd one day to Sheilds by water, and nobly entertain'd there, to support which Expence, the Major is allow'd lool. by the Town. We had a recomendation and Bill upon Mr Crambleton a Merchant, who not onely paid us, but was extremely obliging upon all accounts ; he re- commended us to a Gentleman of the Custom house, who engaged us to go to Tinmouth, where we saw the ruins of an old Abby, and Castle [Tinmouth Castle and back 14 miles] ; The Garrison consisted most of Invalids of Chelsey Colledge, and tho' it stands on a Rock, we found nothing curious but a platform towards the Mouth of the Tine, lately built, We saw also the Remains of a Wreck, cast away in the late Storm, at Tinmouth Barr, the dangerous 87 A Journey to Edenborough entrance of the River Tine, which being full of Coals, we were told it would cost the Town of New- castle 500!. to remove it, for they are oblig'd to scour the Harbour at their own charge ; We came back by Shields, a small port, where we staid to drink a Bowie of punch and see the Salt works : We inquir'd into the nature of making it out of Sea water, and were inform'd they doe it by boyling it in leaden pans, wherein the water evaporating, the salt remains behind, and they make use of Oxe's blood to clarify the brine, by raising the Scum, which they take off: The people that work in the Salt works are very bruitish, and seem to have no Notion of Religion, or decency, they trouble not the Ministers to join them together, but the women are got with Child behind the furnaces, and there they also lye in : When we went into these works, we were oblig'd to keep our heads under the pans, or else the Steam which comes from them would have stifled us, tho' the smell is very sweet : 'Twas late before we re- turn'd, but we had the pleasure to see the fires by the Cole pits, which are every where round New- castle, burning all night, to make Cinders. Having a particular recomendation to Mr Green, who lives in the Bigmarket, we waited on him ; He show'd A Journey to Edenborough us all the civility imaginable, and invited us on Sunday to Dinner with him, and gave us a handsom Entertainment. We waited on his Lady and daughter to St Nicholas Church, in the afternoon, where there was a very great Congregation : he afterwards en- gaged us to go to Mr Bewick's at Closehouse, within 7 miles of Newcastle, to dine there, we were enter- tain'd very genteely, and danc'd with the Ladyes after Dinner : Here we first learn'd the Northumber- land Volunteer, to the Tune of Sike a Wife as Willy had, 1 which we afterwards practic'd very frequently : Mrs Bewick the Young Lady, sung and plai'd a thorough Bass upon the Spinet very well, and with these diversions, and Country dances, we spent the day very merrily. In the Evening [28 August] we return'd to Newcastle with Mr Green, who to add to our pleasure in this place, made another Enter- 1 The words of this song have not been traced, but the tune seems to have been a well-known one. It is to be found in Nathaniel Thompson's "Choice Collection of 1 80 Loyal Songs," 1685, where it is set to a song beginning, " Sike a life as Titus led." The song is headed, " Titus Gates' Exaltation, to the Tune of Sike a Wife as Willy had." It is possible that Burns had some acquaintance with the old song or tune and got from it the suggestion for his song, "Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed," which he wrote for Johnson's "Scots' Musical Museum" ; but the tune in the " Museum " has no resemblance whatever to that in Thompson's collection. M 89 A Journey to Edenborough tainment at his own house, and there invok'd all the pretty Goddesses of the Town, of whom the most beautifull were Mrs White, who deserv'd the tytle of the fair Enamoretta, her Sister the sweet Violetta, and Mrs Writle, that of the charming Astrasa ; After a handsom Collation, and dancing, we waited on the Ladyes home, and afterwards Mr Bewick came to our Lodgings, where drinking a glass of wine, we propos'd to send for the Musick, and serenade all the Ladys of the Town ; we had 2 Hautboys, and 2 Violins, with which we march't round the Town, from 3 in the Morning, till towards 6 : we caus'd 3 serenading Tunes to be particularly plai'd at Sir William Blackets, Enamoretta's and Astrasa's houses, which soon call'd up the pretty Creatures to their windowes ; about 8 in the Morning 29th August we left Newcastle, without sleeping in it that night, and rode to Morpeth, Mr Green and his Lady accom- panying us thither ; By the way, we saw Alderman Writles, and Mr Greens Country houses, and near Morpeth, upon a hill, we saw the ruines of an Old Castle belonging to the Earle of Carlisle, and a Bowl- ing green on the same hill, which commands a fine prospect of the neighb'ring Country. We arriv'd at Morpeth [12 miles. Expen. 175. 90 A Journey to Edenborough 6d.J about one in the afternoon ; It's a pretty market Town, has a neat Town hall, and is scituated on the North side of the River Wentsbeck : This Town has a good market on Wednesdays, 'Tis govern'd by 2 Bailiffs returns 2 members to parliament, and gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of Carlisle. The buildings are most of Stone, and very handsom : We din'd here with Mr Green and his Lady, and about 3 in the afternoon set out for Alnwick, taking our leave of them with a thousand thanks for all their civility, and particularly the kind recomendations they gave us to Berwick and Edenborough. We arrived at Alnwick [14 miles. Exp. 195. 2d.] about 7 in the Evening, another market Town, famous for the victory obtain'd by the English against the Scots, where William their King was taken Prisoner and presented to Henry the 2nd. The buildings are most of stone, and the Market place spatious ; We lay at the posthouse 29th August, and the next morning set out early for Berwick, as soon as we were out of Alnwick we saw the Old Castle, which is very ruinous, and could never be strong, because comanded by the neighb'ring hills, from thence we continu'd our Journy, thro' Belford [the last post Towne in England] to Berwick, and in A Journey to Edenborough our road saw those famous mountains call'd Chiviot hills, on the borders of England and Scotland, upon which there is Snow in the midst of Summer : near Berwick we rode on the Sands between Northumber- land and Holy Island, where the sea comes in every Tide, and divides them, but the way was dangerous, as well as difficult to find out towards the coming in of the Tide : Berwick is of the Scotch side of the Mouth of the River Tweede, over which there is a fair bridge, of 19 arches : Near the foot of the bridge, on the English side, is a stone which Travellers take particular notice of, for when the water overflows it, there is noe passage to Holy Island, but when it's under they may safely goe over, This River rises in a large stream, out of the mountains of Scotland, 30 miles from England, which we saw as we return'd by the way of Carlisle. The fortifications of Berwick, [24 miles. Expen. il. is. 6d.] are now but of small strength, being en- compas't only with a weak wall, It has 5 Bastions towards Scotland and the Sea ; on every one of which there stands a Centinell, when we first entred the Town, the Guard at the further end of the bridge stop't us, because we had fire arms, but being young Souldiers of Sir Charles Hotham's new rais'd Regi- 92 A Journey to Edenborough mcnt, and not having well learn't their Duty, instead of carrying us to the Governour as they ought, only went with Mr Harrison to a Lieutennant of the Guard, in duty, who upon a few trifling examina- tions, discharg'd him and our arms ; But a litle time after we had got to our Inn, the Captain of the Guard came to us, in a seeming surprize, and told us there was a mistake, and that the Governour was displeas'd with the Officers for their neglect of duty ; but we offering to attend him, the Captain return'd and inform'd him of it, which he in civility sent the Captain again to excuse, and to make further enquiry what we were ; we soon satisfied the Captain, and rectified all mistakes over 2 Bowles of punch, there being no wine in the Town, which we admir'd at, having found plenty, all along in Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland ; We din'd on Salmon, which is here very cheap, and may well be so, if the story be true, they told us, that they caught this year 17 score at one Haule, but the Cook drest them so intollerably, that it put us in mind of the old pro- verb : That God sends meat, but the Devill sends Cooks. We inquir'd what observations Mr Ayres had made there, in his Survey, by her Ma'ties ordin- ance, and were inform'd, that he proposes to let in 93 A Journey to Edenborough the Sea all round the Town, and leavell an adjacent Hill, to make the place defensible, if there should be occasion. We drunk so late with the Captaine, and the Officers of the Garrison, that the time was come for those in duty to go the Grand rounds, and the Ceremony being a Novelty to us, they invited us to go along with them, we were attended by a File of Musqueteers, and as we went round the Town, every Gentry demanded the word, which was given in the usuall Form : as soon as we arriv'd at the main guard, the Officers entertain'd us with Brandy, the best liquor they could give us, after a cold walk by the Sea side, in a Northern Climate, after which we went home to Bed, with a promise, that the Gates should be opened for us in the Morning, as soon as we pleas'd. The bounds of this place are about 2 miles in length, and 6 in breadth, and every ffreeman has four acres of ground allow'd him for his own use. August the 3ist about 6 in the Morning, we left Berwick, and took a post boy with us : about a miles distance we came to a small Dike, which is the Boundary between England, and Scotland ; Upon our first Entrance into Scotland we embrac'd one another with all the freindship imaginable : We were now got into a very desolate Country, and 94 A Journey to Edenborough could see nothing about us but barren mountaines and the black Northern Seas ; we often cast our Eys back at dear England, and were pleas'd so long as we could but see the top of the mountain Cheviot, but at length that also withdrew from our Eys ; We had a great deale of cause to leave our Country with regret, upon account of the discouragements we re- ceiv'd from every body, even upon the borders of Scotland, and by what I could gather from the dis- course of all persons I convers'd with, I concluded I was going into the most barb'rous Country in the world ; Every one reckoned our Journy extremely dangerous, and told us 'twould be difficult to escape with our lives, much less without the distemper of the Country, Yet notwithstanding all these sad re- presentations, we resolv'd to proceed, and stand by one another to the last : The first County we came into in Scotland was Meres or Merch formerly call'd Berwickshire, because it belong'd to that place, The Tweed for about 8 miles divides Northumberland and this Country, The first place we came to was call'd Eyton, 1 a litle Village on the right hand side of the road, there were but a few litle Cottages to- gether, surrounded with a small row of trees, without 1 Ayton. 95 A Journey to Edenborough any place of entertainment : We gues't it might be about 6 miles from Berwick ; from thence we gal- lop'd for about tenn miles without seeing a house, having the Sea on our right, and the mountaines on our left, At last we arriv'd at a small post Town [Coppersmith], 1 where we staid to rest ourselves, and at the Change (which is the usuall name for Inns in that Country) we call'd for some Canary, instead of which the Landlord brought us some excellent French white wine and Brandy ; We had all the Town about us imediately, the people seeming surpriz'd to see so many strangers amongst them ; here we saw nothing remarkable but only a Cross in the midle of the Town, and the nastiness and ill manners of the Inhabitants : We left our Post boy here being re- solv'd to proceed without a Guide ; we rode many houres, and saw but few houses, and those only by the Seaside ; one particularly caird Brocksmouth belonging to the Earle of Ruxburgh, another call'd Seaton, the residence of the Earle of Wintown, another call'd Preston Grainge house, and another call'd Dunglass, formerly the seat of Sir George Hume, and a few others whose names I had no opportunity to enquire into. We saw likewise Dun- 1 Cockburnspath. 96 A Journey to Edenborough barr on the Seaside and past by a Town call'd Had- dington about 2 miles on the left from the Road, a place famous for the many seiges of the English, who have often taken it, which being the Midway be- tween Berwick and Edenborough, most Travellers stay there all night, and go to Edenborough the next day, but we were fix't upon a resolution to make but one dayes Journy of it, so did not go out of our way : Hadington is only remarkable for giving the tytle of Earle to the family of the Ramsys, 1 It has a good tower to the Church, which few churches in this Kingdom have ; there is also in it a fine Monu- ment of the Duke of Lauderdale's, We past through the County of Lothian which is divided into 3 parts, call'd East Lothian, Mid Lothian, and West Lothian : we travelled till 5 a clock, seeing nothing worth notice on the Road, except a prodigious Rock in the Sea, near the Shoar, call'd the Bass, where there is a Castle or Fort, a Fountaine and pasture grounds, it seems to be almost inaccessible : we rode on till we came to Musleborough, where we saw a good 1 The writer is in error here, the family name of the Earls of Haddington being Hamilton, not Ramsay. Sir John Ramsay, who assisted James VI. on the occasion of the Gowrie Conspiracy, was created Viscount Haddington in 1 606, but this title became extinct on his death in 1626. N 97 A Journey to Edenborough house belonging to the Marquess of Tweedall. 1 The miles were prodigious long, and I was so very much troubled with the gripes all day, that I thought I should have dyed, but as soon as we got to a small village, I rested an hour, which mightily revived me, for we had been upon the road from 6 in the Morning, to 5 in the Evening without any Victualls, travelling under the severe effects of a cold Northern Climate, in sight of a Bleak Sea : But as we were impatient to come to our Journy's end, we enquir'd of every one we met, the distance from Edenborough, and could not forbear smiling, when the people ask't us their usuall Question, What's your Woll Sir, for tho' they understood us very well, yet they would not be beaten out of their old road : It being a Custom amongst them, to repeat those words before they return an Answer : We had such sad Entertain- ment at this place, and were put into such a dismall hole of a room, that we began to find the Country rather exceeded the Character we had heard of it, than otherwise : A litle rest here enabled us to pro- ceed on our Journy, and we arriv'd at Edenborough about 7 in the Evening, finding the road very good, 1 Pinkie House, now the residence of Sir Alexander Hope, Baronet. 98 A Journey to Edenborough all the way, which may be easily accounted for in a Country of litle trade, and where instead of Carts with wheeles, the Countrymen use a sort of Sledge, in imitation of a Cart, which is generally drawn by one horse, and carryes but a small weight. Edenborough [44 miles. Expen. 9!. 8s. 6d.] is the Capitall City of the Kingdom of Scotland, encompas't with a stone wall : It is scituated in Mid-Lothian, which is call'd the SherrifFdom of Edenburgh, about a mile from the Frith, or branch of the Sea, which runs by Leith : The Country round about, next to that of Glascow, is the most pleasant and fruitfull in Scotland, 'Tis all open, and abounds with Oats, near the City are severall Noblemen's houses, particularly along the Shore of the Frith : The meadow ground hereabouts, is very inconsider- able, it's generally enclos'd with a mud or stone wall, and goes by the name of a park, but is rather a pasture for catle, and according to the Reputation of these parks, they set a price upon the Catle which come from them, those we saw containing but few acres of ground, we could not expect to find any Deer in them, nor did we see one in all our Travells thro' the Country, tho' we were inform'd there are abund- ance in the Highlands : I beleive the ground about 99 A Journey to Edenborough Edenborough might be much improv'd with good husbandry, but I can't forbear censuring that dis- advantageous custom of the Scots, who are so fair from letting Leases to their Tennants to encourage them to cultivate their land to the best advantage, that if any Tennants happen to grow rich, the Land- lords think it a peice of policy to turn them out, that so they may have none under them, but such whose poverty may make them absolute Vassalls to their will : The City is built between two steep hills, and the Castle on another, so that it may not im- properly be compar'd to a spread Eagle, The hill whereon the Castle is built being the head, and the two barren mountaines on each side of it the wings, I have the more reason to make this comparison, because Adain in the British signifyes wing'd, so that Edenborough being a Compound of British and Saxon, implyes a wing'd Borough : It consists of two princi- pall streets, the High street, and the Grass market/ which runn the whole length of the Town. There are six gates to enter into it, the principall whereof is call'd the Cannongate, 2 near which one Snow an 1 Under the name Grassmarket the writer appears to include the Cowgate. 2 A mistake as to the signification of " gate," which in such IOO A Journey to Edenborough Englishman keeps an ordinary, where we lodg'd, it being the best house in Town, and the usuall Quarters of most Englishmen which resort hither : When I first came in sight of Edenborough, I thought the loftiness of the houses, and the prospect of the Castle made a fine show, but I was soon of the same opinion with the English Captain, who having been well entertain'd by the Scotch, was ask't how he lik't the Country, he answered not at all, upon which enquir- ing into the reason, he told them, he thought they had not so much Religion as other Nations, At that they were amazed, knowing their religion even carry'd them to Superstition, so they requir'd why he thought soe, because sayes the English Captain, you have but 8 commandments, they told him they had 10, as well as he, No says the Captain, you have but 8, for you have nothing to covet, nor nothing to steale ; To prevent confusion I will not give an account of the curiosityes here in order as we saw them, but as they lye, and therefore I'll beginn with Holyrood house, which is the first thing that presents itself at the Entrance of the City, This is the Royall Pallace, but combinations as Canongate, Cowgate, etc., means a street. The word for gate is " port." The gate referred is doubtless the Netherbow Port. 101 A Journey to Edenborough not so noble as might be expected, it has four Courts, the Outermost (which is the principall) is as bigg as all the rest, 1 and has 4 Entrys, the front is the cheif, which has a Cupilo over it, cover'd with a peice of Gothick work in imitation of a Crown, sup- ported by pillars of hewn stone ; The great Court or Square is cloyster'd within, and the Gardens are all out of Order ; What they can most put a value upon, is the long Gallery, wherein are the pictures of 1 1 2 Kings of Scotland, from Fergus the First : tho' I think they are all done by an indifferent hand ; Duke Hamilton is hereditary keeper of the Palace : There is an old ruin'd Abby adjoining to it, and we saw in a vault there, the Relicts of 3 Kings of Scotland, which not long since were entire, but now there 1 It is not easy to understand this description of Holyrood as having four courts. The palace, which was rebuilt in its present form during the reign of Charles II., has only one central court or quadrangle, that, namely which the writer describes as " cloystered within." Possibly by the "outermost" court he means the open space called the Abbey Close in front of the palace, and between it and the porch or guard-house ; and by the other two courts, certain spaces to the north and south of the palace, partially enclosed by buildings now removed. Curiously enough, Slezer, in his "Theatrum Scotiae," also describes Holyrood as having four courts. This and the reference to St Thomas's Hospital on page 108, may indicate that our author, in writing out the account of his journey, made use of Slezer's work, which was published in 1693. 1 02 A Journey to Edenborough remains nothing but bones ; On the top of the mountain near the Abbey, is King Arthur's chair ; before the Palace is a spatious yard for Coaches ; From the Palace of Holyrood to the Castle is about a Scotch mile, which goes by an easy ascent : On every door is the name of the Inhabitant, and his calling, written in great black Letters, The most remarkable buildings are the Talboth or Comon Goal, and not farr from it the Duke of Queensburye's new lodging j 1 then the Cannon gate, so call'd from a Society of Cannons, who formerly dwelt in it, next the Trone Church, then the Cathedrall dedicated to St Giles, near that the parliament house, and so to the Castle, which is at the Upper end of the high street, and is inaccessible except on the East side, towards the Town, which is guarded only with an half moon, and has on its Batlements severall peices of Cannon, one of which is particularly remarkable for its largeness, It has a good Trench and Draw- bridge, and a thick wall : The Scotch value them- selves upon this Maiden Castle, as they call it, because they pretend 'twas never taken, altho' it was sur- 1 Queensberry House, built in 1681 by Lord Halton (afterwards Earl of Lauderdale), was purchased by the Duke of Queensberry in 1686. 103 A Journey to Edenborough rendred by the Duke of Gordon l : But it seem'd to us not so much usefull for the defence of the Town as for the comand of it : "Tis more probable it had it's name of Maiden, from the Custom of the Pictish Kings, who always sent their daughters thither ; The Magazines may be easily set on Fire, and an Army march on both sides of it, or encamp under the very Cannons : We were carry'd into the room where King James the First of England was born, but there was nothing remarkable in it, except a Tub of small Scotch Ale, which the Man that show'd it oblig'd us to tast, that we might have the honour to drink in the room where a King was born, There being these verses in Scotch, written on the wall, I thought them worth transcribing, Scotch. Lord Jesu Crist yt Crunitt was with thorns Presrve the birth Quhais badgine heir was born. And send hir Son Sucsesion to ring still Long in this Realme if that it be thy will Als grant O Lord what ere of hir proceed Bee to thy honor glory praise so be id. 1 In 1689. 104 A Journey to Edenborough English. Lord Jesus Christ that crowned was with thorns Preserve the Birth whose body here was born And send her Son's succession to reign still Long in this Realm if that it be thy Will And grant O Lord what ere of her proceed Be to thy Honour Glory and praise So be it. 1 July 19 1566. As we came from the Castle we met with some persons of Quality at our Ordinary, and falling into discourse with them about it, Mr Harrison was giving 1 Considerable variations are found in the readings of this in- scription which are given by different writers, beginning with Maitland in 1753. ^ * s not c l ear h w f ar these variations are due to error in transcription, and how far to alterations which may have been made on the original by careless restorers. The lines as they now stand read as follows : "Lord Jesu Chryst that Crounit was with Thornse, Preserve the Birth quhais Badgie heir is borne, And send Hir Sonee Successione to Reigne still, Lang in this Realme if that it be Thy will, Als Grant O Lord quhat ever of Hir proseed, Be to Thy Glorie, Honer, and Prais sobied." In his "englishing" of the verses our author has misunderstood the second line, the word "Badgie" meaning a badge, device, or coat of arms, and referring to the Royal Arms of Scotland, beneath which the inscription is placed. He has also made an error in the date, the month being June not July. o 105 A Journey to Edenborough an account of Dunkirk, and making his Remarks on what he had seen there, upon which a Scotch Officer imediately took him up, and ask't him whether he was a Spy, and told him he must give an account to his Superiours if he made such observations ; which rude Reprimand startled us, especially when we found upon a less occasion, the Master of the house had a litle before taken our swords privately from our sides for fear of a Quarrell : The Nobility generally resort to the Trone Church, which is the principall, and the Lord High Commissioner l has a Throne erected in it, in a very spatious Gallery, on his right hand sits the Lord Chancellor, and on his left the Lord Provost of Edenborough ; On one side the Church is another remarkable Gallery, call'd the Stoole of Repentance, but in the Scotch churches are no Chan- cells, or Altars. The Cathedrall is divided into 3 Churches, each wherof has a parish. There is also the South Church, 2 the Collegiate Church of the Sacred Trinity, The Lady Tester's church, and another lately built, 3 besides severall Chappells : We were 1 To the Parliament of Scotland. 2 Greyfriars. 3 This probably refers to the Canongate Parish Church, built in 1688. 1 06 likewise inform'd there are about 1 5 Episcopall meet- ings, very much frequented. The Parliament house is in a square, call'd the parliament Close, where are perhaps the highest houses in the world, for we counted one 14 story high, every Staircase may con- taine 28 Familyes, for the Scotch houses are built after the manner of the Inns of Court in England, and every apartment is call'd a house ; over the en- trance of the Parliament house is the Scotch Arms, with figures of mercy and truth on each side as Sup- porters, and the following Inscription, Stant his Fcelicia Regna and under them was, Unio Unionum, it's taken out of the Courts of Justice, and seems to be as bigg as our house of Lords in England : In the Square before it is a Statue of King Charles the 2nd upon a Stately Pedestall, and next it is the Upper and Lower Exchange : In the street call'd the Grass- market is Herriott's Hospitall, which is a building they have most reason to commend : 'Twas founded by George Herriot, Jeweller to King James the 6th. In the Frontispeice, in the Court within, is erected the Statue of the founder, and round about are Piazzas to walk under, there are good Gardens belonging to it, and 'tis a Nursery for about 130 Boys, but capable of entertaining many more. The Children of the 107 A Journey to Edenborough poorer sort of Citizens have their Education in it till they are fit for the publick Schooles and Colledges, The Revenue is about 2000!. per ann. Sterling, a great Incomb in that Country. There is another Hospitall in the City, call'd St Thomas, to maintain the poorer sort of Inhabitants, and they are allow'd a Chaplin. 1 I must not omit the Colledge of King James the 6th, founded Anno Domini 1580, in which is a good Library, with Variety of books neatly kept, Over which are plac't the pictures of diverse Princes, and memorable persons, There is also the Skull of Buchanan so thinn, that one may see thro it, kept for a great rarity, to which a principall of the Col- ledge, having stole the head by bribing the Sexton, 1 St Thomas's Hospital was situated at the foot of the Canongate, on the north side, close to the Watergate. It was founded in 1541 as a chapel and almshouse by George Creichtoun, Bishop of Dun- keld, and in 1617 the patronage of the Hospital was acquired by purchase by the Magistrates of the Canongate. Writing in 1753, Maitland says, " The Lands and Tenements which belonged to this Foundation being all lost or imbezzled, the Buildings must go to Ruin." The buildings were demolished in I77&. It is quite possible that the reference in the text is not to this comparatively obscure institution, but to the much more important Trinity Hospital, which from a very early period has been under the management of the Magistrates and Town Council of Edinburgh. Slezer, in mentioning the latter, calls it the " Hospital of St Thomas," and though this is clearly an error or his part, it may be the source from which our author took his information. (See note, page 102.) 1 08 A Journey to Edenborough has annex't an ingenious Copy of Verses, There is also a Letter of Cardinall Richlieu's, to the French Embassador at Rome, concerning a Benedictine Fryar, wrote in a double fac't manner, in two Columns, which being both read together, is in praise of the Bearer, but the first Column read by itself is quite contrary, and according to the Cardinall's meaning, gives a most detestable character of him, There is also the Bohemian Protest, concerning the Burning of Huss, and Prague, with severall other Rarityes, and under the Library is the publick printing house : Tho' this Colledge is endow'd with the Priviledges of an University, yet the worst of our Inns of Court at London, have as good Lodgings : There is a Col- ledge of phisitians, founded by King Charles the 2nd., and a Colledge of Justice, with a Library well fur- nish'd with books of Law and Divinity, There's nothing else worth notice, Except the excellent Chimes in every steeple, which play a Quarter of an hour together, and the fine Monuments in the Churchyards, built after the manner of Mausoleums, of the best marble, under which are convenient Vaults ; I shall therefore give a small account of their Constitution and Courts of Justice, The Govern- ment of Scotland is the same with England, by King, 109 Lords, and Commons, which being assembled, make the Supream Court, call'd the Parliament, The next is their Colledg of Justice, consisting of a Chancellor, President, 19 Senators out of the Clergy and Laity, 3 principall Clerks, and as many Advocates as the Senators shall appoint, They have but 2 Terms, One commences ist November, and ends I5th March, the other lasts from Trinity Sunday to the ist of August, The Intervall of time is the Vacation, and the Court sits every day in Term time except Sun- days and Mondays, There are Sheriffs Turns in every County, as in England, and Appeals lye from thence to the Sessions, with diverse other petty Courts in fiefs of the Crown, Burroughs, and Towns, but the most remarkable is the Comissioriat, the cheif of which is at Edenborough, wherein all matters re- lating to Wills and Ecclesiasticall causes are deter- min'd, as in our Prerogative Court in Doctors Commons ; But for Criminall Causes, there is a Court held in Edenborough by the Cheife Justice, who deputes 2 or 3 Councellors to Judge in all Cases of life and death, and Loss of Limb, or of goods and Chattells, and Advocates are admitted for the prisoners, even in Cases of High Treason, Also the Sheriffs in Countyes or Magistrates in Burroughs, may by Jury, no A Journey to Edenborough try and condemn Manslayers, if taken within 24 hours after the fact committed, And the Nobility and Gentry have particular priviledges and Juris- dictions within their own Libertyes, ev'n in Criminall Causes, and may try and put to Death Malefactors, but an Appeale lyes to Edenborough : The parlia- ment being assembled, whilst we were there, I had the better opportunity of taking an exact account : The Queen being absent, deputes some Nobleman to be Lord High Comissioner, who at this time, was the Duke of Argyle, He resides at the Palace of Holyrood and is attended with as much State, as a Prince, The Queen allows him 50!. a day Sterling for his Table, at which most of the Members of parliament are constant : We saw him go to the Parliament house in this manner, First a Coach and six horses for his Gentlemen, then a Trumpet, Then his own Coach with six white horses, which were very fine, being those presented by King William to the Duke of Queensbury, and by him sold to the Duke of Argyle, as we were inform'd for 300!. : next goes a Troop of Horse guards, cloath'd like my Lord of Oxfords Regiment, but the horses are of severall colours, and the Lord Chancellor, and the Secretary of State, and the Lord cheif Justice Clerk, in A Journey to Edenborough and other Officers of State close the Cavalcade in Coaches and six horses, Thus the Comissioner goes and returns every day, and also goes in the same manner to Church, In the midle of the high street is a Guard house l for the City train'd bands, who are every day on duty, and when the Lord high Commissioner comes by, they beat their Drums and stand to their Arms to salute him : It hapned whilst we were at Edenborough, that the Act for a treaty of Union, between England and Scotland, was upon debate, and having the honour to have severall Lords and Members of parliament often dine with us, they inform'd us of the Grand day when the Act was to be past or rejected, and by speciall favour of my Lord high Comissioner, we had leave to stand upon the throne by his right hand : The usuall way to admit strangers is to give them a battoon ; which holding in their hands, shows they are forreigners. The Lords and Comons sit together ; As soon as we heard the names call'd over, We observ'd Dukes Marquesses and Earles sat on the Uppermost seats on the right hand, Viscounts and Barons on the uppermost Seats of the left, The Knights of the Shires under the Dukes, Marquesses, and Earles, and the Burgesses 1 Demolished in 1785. 112 A Journey to Edenborough and Comoners under the Viscounts and Barons. The Lord Chancellor under the Comissioners Throne, The Lord Treasurer on his right hand, and the Secretary of State on his left, and directly under him the Lord Justice Clerk, and at the head of a long Table, on which is plac't the Crown, Scepter, and Sword, the Earle Marshall ; The Lord high Comis- sioner has his Comission always before him in a velvet purse on his cushion, When they began to debate, we observ'd that the principall leading men of the High party, or those which oppos'd the Court, were the Duke of H ,* the Duke of A , 2 the Lord C y, 3 and the Lord B a en, 4 and one Fletcher of Salton, who speaks well, but with a great deal of passion, The Earle of S f d, 5 who is Lord C r, 6 is a very ingenious man, His cheif perfection, and what is most requisite for his office in the house, is resuming debates, which he does with an admirable dexterity, by giving soe happy a turn for the Interest of the party he espouses, that he generally carryes the point, without the censure of either party. The Lord high Commissioner sayes nothing ; The Duke of Ar e 7 was thought, as 1 Hamilton. 2 Athole. 3 Cromarty. * Belhaven. 5 Seafield. 6 Chancellor. 7 Argyle. P 113 A Journey to Edenborough we were told not only too young for so high a Station, but too warm to bear the Reflections of some of the leading Mallcontents, but on the contrary he behav'd himself in this criticall juncture, with so sedate and even a Temper, that he justly gain'd an universall reputation, and brought the Sessions to a happy con- clusion, The Lord Chancellor determines upon all debates who shall speak first, when anything is put to the vote, every member is call'd by his name, and answers singly, approven, or not approven, The grand debate this day, being about the Act for a treaty with England, many learned speeches were made on the occasion, Some were for passing no Act till England had given them satisfaction for the affront they pre- tended was put upon them, by the Act pass'd last Sessions in England, which not only declar'd them Aliens, but prohibited their goods, and thereby touch't them in the most sensible part, Fletcher said, that England could not make them Aliens, since they were naturall born subjects to the Queen, For, says he, to whome should we seek for protection but to our Queen, He quoted the famous Case of Calvin, in Cokes reports, where the Scotch by our Lawyers were adjudged Denizens, which he said had been always held for law ; After his debate, others were 114 A Journey to Edenborough for making the English Aliens in Scotland, as a Retaliation for our making them soe in England : Belhaven said it did not consist with the honour of an ancient independent Nation to treat with England, till satisfaction was given by the English for their blunder, for he could call the English Act no other, Cromorty said, if he had a law suit depending, and his adversary should meet him in the street and break his head without any provocation, he would first demand satisfaction for that injury, before he would treat of an accomodation of the Law suit, and so applyed the Simile to the Act of Aliens : But after many other debates, and hard reflections on the English, it was at last put to the Vote, whether there should be added a clause to the Act of treaty, which should prohibit any treaty with England, till England had rescinded the Clause of Aliens, or whether it should be in a seperate way. Seperate way was carry'd by two Voices, where upon Duke H l show'd a great concern, which appear'd by his gesture, and indeed it might well trouble him, if the Story be true which we were told of him, that over a glass of wine with some English and Scotch Lords, he said that the Bonnet was his, and by G d he 1 Hamilton. "5 A Journey to Edenborough would wear it, which the next morning he en- deavour'd to wipe over, and told the English that what he said was only to please some Scotch Lords of his party then present, however this Vote broke all his measures. The Lord Chancellor propos'd it should be done by addresse, but Duke H l rose up, and with great ffury said, now it is broke out, now we see what you would be at, and utter'd severall other passionate expressions, As soon as the Court had gain'd this point, to the confusion of H * and his party, The Lord Comissioner did us the honour to turn to us, and say, that it was deciding whether England and Scotland should goe together by the Eares : When this Vote was pass'd, Duke H l told the Chancellor, that now they might do what they would, and indeed for that reason the Court were very willing to proceed, but Fletcher and H l oppos'd it, and A- 2 entred his Protest against the Court, to which his party join'd, But at the Lord Chancellor's request, the Question was put proceed or delay, and carry'd proceed : during this Vote the Lord Comissioner told us, that 'twas of more consequence than we imagined, for if the Court carryed it, the Queen's business would be done, if 1 Hamilton. 2 Athole. 116 A Journey to Edenborough not 'twould be dubious : The next great point was, whether the Queen or parliament should have nomination of Comissioners : Fletcher oppos'd the Queen, for says he, you had as good leave it to my Lord G d in, 1 and we know that our Queen is in England, under the Influences of an English Ministry, and 'tis not to be expected that the Interest of Scot- land should be so much considered by her, as the in- clinations of an English Parliament, Another Gentle- man said, he would vote the parliament should nominate, it not being to be expected she would disoblige her English Parliament, being engaged in a long and expensive warr, for that the English were able to supply her, but they being poor, and not able to assist her, the English would certainly have the greater influence. H 2 contrary to the ex- pectation of his party, voted the Queen to nominate, giving this reason, with his usuall haughty and bantering Ayr, that the Parliament was too much in heats and feuds, and could never agree upon proper persons, but the Queen, who was free from partiality, might doubtless make a good choice, but added he, if she should make a bad one, wee will be safe, for all must return to them again, and they might send 1 Godolphin. 2 Hamilton. 117 A Journey to Edenborough the Act back to the place from whence it came ; which show'd a sting in the taile of his Complement. 'Twas carry'd the Queen should nominate by 4 Voices, Then a Gentleman propos'd to add a clause, to preserve the discipline and Worship of the Kirk of Scotland, as at present establish'd : One propos'd it should be the Religion and Discipline, but my Lord Chancellor told them, that was all the same thing, and H l said, 'twas not worth a Vote, and his brother the Earle of R 2 ask't whether they might not add the Lord's prayer and Creed, and indeed by what I could observe, they would add the whole Common Liturgy of the Church of England, for they seem'd to be quite tir'd of the Kirk discipline : Now the whole Act being finish'd, the Vote was put whether it should be carry'd approven, or no, and 'twas carry'd approven, by 34 voices. As soon as this was over, we left the house, and that night Collonell Ogilby, the Lord Chan- cellor's brother, 3 the Lord Hardress, 4 and severall Lords and parliament men, came to our lodgings, 1 Hamilton. 2 Ruglen. 3 Colonel Patrick Ogilvy, brother of the Earl of Seafield, sat in the Scottish Parliament as member for the burgh of Cullen. 4 As this title does not appear in either the English or Scottish Peerages, it would appear that the author has mistaken the name. 118 A Journey to Eden borough and embrac'd us with all the outward marks of love and kindness, and seem'd mightily pleas'd at what was done ; and told us we should now be no more English and Scotch, but Brittons. And thus we merrily spent the night, in drinking to the Success of the treaty and happy union, and next day, Colonell Ogilby and some Scotch Lords enquir'd mightily for the 3 English Gentlemen, as they call'd us, having a mind to give us a chirrupping Cup, but we went to Leith that day, being willing to avoid them, however they look't all over the Town for us, but not rinding us, says Ogilby if I meet with them, they shall come, for I'll bring one in one hand, and another in the other, and a third in my teeth, which expression may seem pragmaticall to those that have not been witnesses of his strength but he having one Evening took me on his fingers and held me at Arms length and at the same time lifting another with his other hand and holding him at arms length we were convinced he would have been able to runn away with us all, had we not kept out of the way, which was happily occasion'd, by Captain Breholt, an Englishman, who lodg'd in the same house with us, and had engag'd us to dine with him, at Leith. We went first to see a Dogg and a Cock fight, which he 119 A Journey to Edenborough recomended as an extraordinary diversion, but the poor Cock was kill'd before we came, so we past on to my Lord Cromortys house, 1 scituated near the Frith, having a vast prospect of a barren Country on the other side, as farr as Sterling. It's built of stone, with litle Sash windows, low roofes, and Gabell ends, it's scarce yet finish't, and there is litle worth men- tioning either in the house or Gardens. His Lordship hapned to be in mourning for his Lady, 2 which gave us an opportunity of observing the Scotch Custom : That when any one dyes out of a noble Family, all the doores and Entryes are painted black, with some dashes of white, to make it look more dismall, and an Hatchment of the persons Arms and the Marriages of his Family, hung up over the front door. We met here with an old painter, who spoke Italian very well, he show'd us some drawings of his 1 George Mackenzie, created Viscount Tarbat in 1685, and Earl of Cromarty in 1703, built the house here referred to, which was then called Royston. In 1739 it was purchased by the Duke of Argyle, who re-named it Caroline Park, probably after his daughter Caroline, who married the Earl of Dalkeith, and through whom the property passed into the possession of the Buccleuch family. The house now forms part of the premises occupied by Messrs A. B. Fleming & Co., ink manufacturers. 2 Lord Cromarty's second wife, the Countess of Wemyss, died in the year 1705. 120 A Journey to Edenborough own, not very extraordinary, however his Conver- sation engag'd us for an hour or two, And then we set forward for Leith, riding all the way on the Banks of the Frith, where we set up at the Sun. Leith is but an indifferent place, something re- sembling Billingsgate, here we met with excellent wine and herrings, which made it the more agreable. Mr Kendall is Master of the Sun, where Captain Green l lodg'd. We had been confined at Eden- 1 The case of Captain Green, which at the time of our author's visit greatly occupied the public mind, arose in the following manner : While the Scottish people were still smarting under the failure of the African Company's Darien Scheme, a vessel called the Annandale, belonging to that Company, while in an English port, was seized at the instance of the East India Company. Soon after, a vessel called the Worcester, connected with the East India trade, and commanded by Captain Green, put into the Firth of Forth for repairs. The Scots, seeing here an opportunity for reprisal, de- manded that the vessel should be seized. The Government declined to interfere, but the African Company's secretary, Mr Roderick Mackenzie, with the assistance of some friends, effected the capture of the ship. A rumour then began to spread, founded on certain expressions let fall by some of the crew of the Worcester, that they had been guilty of a piracy on a vessel belonging to the Darien Company, called the Speedy Return, commanded by Captain Drum- mond, which vessel had not been heard of for a long period. After some delay the Privy Council at last gave orders that Green and some of his crew should be indicted for piracy and murder. The trial began on 5th March 1705, and resulted in a verdict of guilty, and sentence of death. On nth April the sentence was carried O 121 A Journey to Edenborough borough, being caution'd not to speak anything there, in relation to Captain Green, Darien, or the Succes- sion, But being informed we might trust Kendall at our request he very civilly oblig'd us with the fol- lowing relation of Captain Green's affaire, That when the Captain came on Shoar, he lodg'd at his house, and having some China plates, and other trifles on board the Worcester, in his Cabin, Kendall told him he would give him something, in lieu of them, which the Captain consented to, But the ship being seized in a short time afterwards, Mr Mackenzie the Scotch Affrican Company's Secretary (whom we once din'd with at Edenborough) came to Kendall, and would have perswaded him to swear the Captain had broke bulk, which Kendall refusing, the Scotch have bore him a Grudge ever since, tho' if he had sworn, 'twould have been for the Captains advantage, for when they found they could not prove he had broke bulk, and consequently had no power to seize his Ship, they endeavour'd to prove him guilty of murder out, in spite of the efforts of the Queen and the Government to have the execution postponed till further enquiry could be made. The evidence produced against Green at the trial was certainly very insufficient, and it came out later that Captain Drummond, whom Green was accused of murdering, was actually alive some time after the date of Green's execution. 122 A Journey to Edenborough and piracy, How fair they convicted him, I referr to his tryall, but I am sure I never heard of any person that dyed more like a Man of honour and a Christian, and as he deny'd the fact to the last, I am induc'd in charity to believe him innocent : when he was in prison, the Ministers of the Kirk examin'd him, for they would suffer no other to come near him, who were so well satisfied with the reasonable- ness of his discourse in every point, that they apply'd to the Councell for a further examination, but no care being taken to remove him from the Talboth to the Castle, where he might have been safe, and the day appointed for his execution being come, the Mob got together to the Number of 3OOOO, 1 and running about the streets cryed out for Justice, saying they were resolv'd to have him hang'd : The Lord Chan- cellor very narrowly escap't being torn in peices, in coming to appease them, and they insulted the very guards, telling them they should be answerable for any damage they received, soe that now the Captains case was altogether desperate, and there was no avoid- ing the necessity of sacrificing him to the fury of the Mobb ; When he first heard of the Warrant from 1 A manifest exaggeration. The entire population of Edinburgh and Leith did not, at this period, exceed 40,000. 123 A Journey to Edenborough the Councell for his death, he said he did not think they would have hanged him, however desir'd to retire, and Kendall being with him he engag'd him to meet him at the place of Execution ; When the time was come, they would not allow him a Coach, and he refusing a Cart went on foot : When he arriv'd at Leith, where he was executed, after an absolute denyall of the fact he submitted to his fate with abundance of Composure, without the least show of fear, and yet not insensible of his condicion ; Not- withstanding the former fury of the Rable, it's very observable, that they did not insult him, as he went along ; The windows were crowned with innumer- able Spectators, and very many shed tears in compas- sion of his misfortune : After the Mobb had seen all this, they went home with a great deale of dissatis- faction, and said if he were alive again, they would not hang him : Thus was this unfortunate man murdred, purely for the Lucre of his Ship, which would not have been worth more than 16000!. in London, but in Scotland, scarce yeilded 6oool. ; for the Cargoe was upon sale, when we were there, and one Mr Plowden, an English Gentleman, who bought severall things, told us, that they sold a pound of pepper for rod. ; of which there was a Drawback 124 A Journey to Edenborough of 4d. ; and a good Joint of a Cane for 7d.; which in England might have been worth los. ; I could not but admire at their pretence to punish piracy, when they are worse than pirates themselves, for we were inform'd, they had a Project on foot to invite the Madagascar pirates to setle amongst them, and for this end, had procur'd them the Queen's pardon, or if that would not doe, to let them have a free trade : this is transacted by some English Renegadoes, who inform'd us of it themselves, and we had reason to beleive it true, because we found them so much cares't by the Scots ; But I was the more mov'd with Captain Green's misfortune, when I found the Scotch had made it almost a Nationall Quarrell, and having convers'd with Kendall, and with Antonio Francisco the Black, that swore against him, only by hearsay, and heard the Character of Haines, I could scarce forbear resenting this barbrous usage, but that I was inform'd a Gentleman had like to have been stab'd, for speaking his Sentiments too freely ; 'Tis no wonder why the Scots should make this, and Darien business, the Subject of their Quarrell, for they have very litle trade, and so were oblig'd by necessity to go a privateering for this Ship, which was a consider- able prize in so poor a Country, In the affair of 125 A Journey to Edenborough Darien, the Subscriptions were so universall, that the Cheif man of every Village, took half a Dollar, not only from the inferiour people, but the very Servants, for which together with the produce and improve- ment, he gave an instrument to be accountable, Now whilst every body expected no less than a Great Fortune for half a Dollar, 'tis no wonder that they were angry with their ill luck, in having nothing at all : However this has given their dull Bards an occasion to vent out some poeticall malice, in bar- b'rous Satyrs, against the English, one of which, being the most scurrilous, we bought for curiosity ; 'tis to be observ'd, they eat no pork, and therefore entitled it a Pill for the Pork eaters, or a Scotch Launcett for an English Swelling, and the very Boys would pull us in the street by the Sleeve, and cry a Pill for the Pork eaters, knowing us to be English- men, and indeed it's very observable, that the children, which can but just speak, seem to have a naturall Antipathy against the English ; The Author of this malitious Satyr was one Blair, 1 a Laird, who look't like a very beggarly fellow, and we heard so bad a 1 The author of " A Pill for Pork-eaters " was Forbes of Dis- blair. The error in the text was probably due to the writer having heard him called by the name of his property. 126 A Journey to Edenborough Character of him, that we concluded his impudence, (if possible) exceeded his poverty. We hapned to enquire for the Pamphlet at a Booksellers shop at Edenborough whilst he was there, and not knowing him, us'd such expressions, as made him withdraw, After he was gone the Bookseller told us his name, so we thought it best to retire for fear of being in- sulted, This fellow has wrote a foolish Song, as a Banter on Atwood, 1 and his Patron my Lord Mohun, set, as they pretend, after the Italian manner, and and printed on curious paper, which we bought, as rather deserving our Laughter than our admiration, After we had satisfied our selves with discoursing freely at Leith, we return'd to Edenborough, and in the Evening went to see one Higgins, a Staffordshire man, who performs severall things, which Posture Clark 2 never could attain to, so wonderfully well, that I thought it proper to set down the particulars : He extends his body into all deform'd shapes or postures, makes his Hips and Shoulder bones meet, 1 William Atwood, an English barrister, wrote a work maintain- ing the feudal superiority of the crown of England over that of Scotland. 2 Joseph Clark, " posture master," who died about 1676, was noted for being able " to contort his body in such a manner as to represent almost every kind of deformity and dislocation." 127 A Journey to Edenborough stands upon one Legg, and extends his other in a direct line 3 quarters of a yard above his head, turns himself backward upon a drinking glass, fixing his head, hands, and feet upon it, stands in that posture a considerable time, talks and moves every part of his body upon the Glass, without the least concern, and extends himself further than ever any man did, or pretended to before, He takes his right foot back- wards over his head, twisting it over his right shoulder, and puts it under his left arm, he draws all his bowells up into his breast, and talks as well then as at another time, He likewise extends his body into the Shape of a packsadle, and can carry in that pos- ture the heavyest man living, These things we saw perform'd to our great admiration, and Captain Breholt got upon his back, in that Shape, and tho' Higgins was a very thinn slight made man, and the Captain fat, yet he gallop'd round the room, as if he had no weight upon him, he was so slender and talk't so effeminately, that most took him for a woman, in disguise : One thing more he did, which was laying both his hands upon the foot of a glass turn'd up- wards his Elbows resting on the Table, and then throwing his feet backwards brought them over his head upon his hands, supporting in that posture his 128 A Journey to Edenborough whole body on his Elbows. This wonderfull fellow had there no encouragement, There were but 2 prizes to see him, The highest places were half a Dollar, which is but as. 4d. English, yet we saw considerable persons sit in the lowest places, even amongst the Mobb, and had it not been for 3 or 4 Dutch Captains and the English Gentlemen, the Pit had been empty, We were told he went to the Lord high Commis- sioners in the Evening, and was presented with twenty Guineas, but as he came home he was stop't by the Mobb, who had got a Notion, that he was a Con- jurer, or possess'd with a Devill, therefore they carry'd him to the Town guard, and had not the Lord high Commissioner sent an immediate order for his discharge, he would certainly have suffer'd a further examination. Another day, one Sir Alex- ander Brand, 1 a Gentleman of a very considerable 1 Sir Alexander Brand was a prominent citizen of Edinburgh. He was a manufacturer of what was called Spanish leather, that is, leather stamped with gold for use as room-hangings. He was one of the Bailies of Edinburgh in 1684, and again in 1687. He was one of the original members of the Merchant Company, and occupied the Master's chair in 1 686. His residence, Brandfield, was situated on the north side of Fountainbridge, occupying the ground now covered by Grove Street and adjoining streets. At a later date this property seems to have borne the name of " The Grove," probably from the grove of trees mentioned by our author. In the Advocates' Library there is preserved a copy of a broad- R 129 A Journey to Edenborough Estate in that Country, and a Parliament man, came to dine with us, and invited us to his house, with very civill and genteele expressions of his respect for the English Nation : His seat [Brandfield] is about a Mile from Edenborough, and it being a pleasant walk, and a fine day, we agreed so wait on him, his house as well as his entertainment seem'd to us the most like the English fashion of any we saw in Scotland, The gardens were very neat, and encompast with a pretty Grove of trees, he show'd us all with many Apologies, telling us we could not find anything, to admire there, after we had seen such fine Palaces in England, But in the midst of our discourse, we side entitled ' Overture for cleansing of the Streets," of which Sir Alexander Brand is believed to be the author. In view of the strong impression which the " nastiness " of Edinburgh seems to have made on our travellers, and the reference to the opinion of strangers in the preamble to the Overture, the text of the latter is here given verbatim et literatim. " Overture for Cleansing of the Streets. Seing the Nobility and Gentry of Scotland are when they are Abroad esteemed by all Nations to be the finest and most accomplished People in Europe ; yet its to be regrated, that it is always casten up to them by Srangers, who admire them for their singular Qualifications, That they are born in a Nation that has the Nastiest Citys in the world, especially the Metropolitant. For remeid of which it is humbly proposed to His Grace, His Majesty's High Commissioner, and the Right Honour- able the Estates of Parliament, That if the Magistrates of Edinburgh will give a Tack of the whole Muck of Edinburgh, for a certain 130 A Journey to Edenborough hapned to enter a walk where we saw his 2 daughters, mending their fathers breeches, Our finding them in such an Employ, no doubt put them into a Surprize, and therefore we endeavour'd to withdraw without paying the Devoirs we afterwards intended, but the Old Gentleman would let us know, they were his daughters, and recommended us to them, not seeing what they were about, so we were oblig'd to be rude against our inclinations, After we had seen the Gardens, we waited on him into his house, where we found his Lady ready to receive us, arid after drinking some excellent Champaign and Burgundy, the Young Ladyes at our request came in drest to Number of years, as they did some time ago, at 500 lib. Sterling a year. This Proposer will find sufficient Caution that he will cause the whole Streets, Closes, Courts, and Turnpyks within Edinburgh to be paddeled and sweept clean every morning, so that no Nastiness nor Glar shall be seen anywhere within the City, but shall be carried by Carts without the City, upon the Undertakers proper Expenses, and that within an Hour and a half every morning before break of day Summer and Winter except Sunday ; and such a course shall be taken that the Streets upon Sunday shall be as clean then, as on any other day in the Week. And to con- vince your Grace and the Honourable Estates of Parliament, that the Person that makes this overture is more concerned for removing the Reproach that has for ever been upon our Nation, then for any private design of gain to himself, he is willing to pay 400 lib. Sterling a Year during the Years of his Tack to the Poor of Edinburgh." A Journey to Edenborough the best advantage, and appear'd the most charming of any we had seen in Scotland ; There being a Spinet in the room, we knew it our duty to begg a Tune, and after that a Song, which was complyed with very obligingly, and I must confesse whilst they entertain'd us with the Scotch Songs, 'twas very diverting, but when one of the Ladyes sung an English Song of Purcell's, with a Scotch Tone and Pronunciation, I had much ado to forbear laughing : by this time we were well acquainted, and so pre- sum'd to return the Ladys Favours, with all the expressions of thankfullnesse we were able, and Sir Alexander would not let us part, till we had danc'd with his daughters : We spent this day with greater pleasure, and satisfaction than any we had done since we arriv'd in Scotland, and the good nature and Civility we met with here, detained us so long, that 'twas almost dark before we return'd to Edenborough, I ought not to forget a Motto on the Ceiling of the Dyning room at this house, the Device was a Crown, and 2 Sceptres across, Under it these words Hasc invicta miserunt 108 Proavi C. secundus I66O. 1 which 1 We learn from John Taylor, the Water-poet, that a similar inscription existed at Holyrood in 1618. Describing the palace, Taylor says : " In the inner court I saw the king's armes cunningly 132 A Journey to Edenborough shows the pride of the Scots, in valuing themselves on the antiquity of their Monarchy, which in their Common discourse, they always style, the auncient Kingdom. Sir Alexander taught us a Scotch health, call'd Duck and Dorecth, 1 which in English signifies Stark Love, and Kindnesse, and indeed we repeated it afterwards so often, that I think I shall never forget it. I have now finish'd all I can commend in this Country except the excellent wine in every place at 1 5d. per Quart, which tho' 'tis so cheap, I am satis- fied will in time mightily contribute to the impover- ishment of the Scotch, if they continue to drink the same quantity they do now, because they pay ready mony for it, and have but few Commodities to make a return, the chief whereof are Fish, and course white cloth, which will scarce ballance the Con- sumption of wine, The Scotch measures are call'd a Mutchkin, which is as much as our pint, a Choppin carved on stone . . . over which was written this inscription in Latine, Nobis hac invicta miserunt 1 06 proavi. I enquired what the English of it was. It was told me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded : 106 forefathers have left this to us un- conquered." 1 Deoch-an-doruis the drink at the door, or stirrup-cup. The author's translation is somewhat far-fetched. 133 A Journey to Edenborough as much as our Quart, and a pinte Scotch is as much as 2 Quarts English, I have been thus tedious in my account of Scotland, because the bad character it lyes under, discourages most Gentlemen from travell- ing thither, but I can't conclude, without giving a relation of the causes which makes this Country so much despis'd by the English, and here I need not go far for observation, every street shows the nasti- ness of the Inhabitants, the excrements lye in heaps, and there is not above one house of Office in the Town, which may not improperly be call'd a house of Office itself. In a Morning the Scent was so offensive, that we were forc't to hold our Noses as we past the streets, and take care where we trod for fear of disobliging our shoes, and to walk in the midle at night, for fear of an accident on our heads. The Lodgings are as nasty as the streets, and wash't so seldom, that the dirt is thick eno' to be par'd off with a Shovell, Every room is well scented with a close stoole, and the Master Mistress and Servants lye all on a flour, like so many Swine in a Hogsty ; This with the rest of their Sluttishness, is no doubt the occasion of the Itch, which is so common amongst them. We had the best lodgings we could get, for which we paid 3!. 55. Scots, being about A Journey to Edenborough iod. a night English, and yet we went thro' the Master's Bed chamber and the Kitchin, and dark Entry, to our room which look't into a place they call the close, full of Nastinesse, 'tis a common thing for a Man or woman to go into these closes at all times of the day, to ease nature. We were mightily affraid of the Itch the first night, which made us keep on our white thread Stockins, and gloves, but we had all the good fortune to escape it. The fear of this distemper put us upon enquiring into the nature of it, and the best account I could find, was in the monthly philosophicall transactions (No. 283). where is an abstract of part of a Letter from Dr Bonomo to Signior Redi, containing some observa- tions on the Itch, which is occasion'd by a minute litle creature, in shape resembling a Tortoise, of whitish colour, a litle dark upon the back, with some thinn long hairs, of nimble motion, with six feet, a sharp head, with 2 litle horns at the end of the Snout, which getting between the Fingers, in the little furrows of the Cuticula, with their sharp heads, begin to enter, and by their gnawing and working in with their bodyes, make the itching, which by scratching is encreas't, and he informs us, that whilst he was drawing the Figure of one of A journey to Edenborough these animalls by a Microscope, he perceiv'd a very small Egg drop from the hinder part, from which he is of opinion these creatures are generated, And these Animalcules sticking to every thing that touches them, he inferrs that from thence the Itch comes to be so catching. I had the same Notion of it, and therefore took care of good clean linnen at Eden- borough, but upon the road in Scotland we never went to bedd, and scarce touch't a cloth. Another cause of it may be in their way of washing, They put their cloaths with a litle cows dung into a large tubb of water, and then plucking their pettycoats up to their bellyes, get into the Tubb, and dance about it to tread the cloaths, instead of washing them with their hands, and this the women doe in the open streets, without any manner of shame or modesty ; As the Scotch are nasty so I found them as prophane, and vitious, as other people, notwithstanding all the pretended sanctity of their Kirk. There is indeed a high Kirk Treasurer, who punishes offenders, 1 but we were inform'd, that a present of 3 Guineas at first coming to Town, will be a good indemnity 1 i.e. those guilty of immorality. The proceedings of the Kirk- Treasurer are satirised by Allan Ramsay in his poem, " An Elegy on John Cowper." 136 A Journey to Edenborough against all Complaints of that nature, unless in cases of adultery, which is certain death. But when a man is taken in the fact, as a stranger may easily be, if he has not compounded with the Treasurer, he may soon be run up to 50!. charge ; but the punish- ment of those that are insolvent is the Stoole of re- pentance, where they are oblig'd to hear a Lecture for a Reprimand, We went on Sunday to the Kirk in hopes to see that Ceremony, but it hapned no body had been caught in their iniquity, however Mr Harrison had like to have gone into it, mistaking it for a Gallery, but was prevented by an Old man, who perceiv'd him to be a stranger, The Minister made such a prodigious noise in broad Scotch, and beat his Pulpit so violently, that he seem'd better qualified for a Drummer than a Parson, The women were most vail'd with plods, which gave us but litle opportunity of passing our Judgment on the Scotch beautyes, but those we saw were very indifferent, There is no other place but the Church to take a view of them at, for in Edenborough the Kirk allows of no plays, or publick Entertainments, neither are there any walks for the Ladyes ; When any one dyes, the Bellman gives notice to all faithfull brothers and sisters, and a day or two after acquaints them s i37 A journey to Edenborough with his Funerall, It's very observable, that a poor pedlar, tho' almost eaten up with the Itch and Vermin, wears his Sword, and has his litle Box resembling a Tapp fill'd with Mundungoe in his pocket, without which he can't live, and if he has but a few Baubies, or half pennyes, about him, he strutts like an Em- perour ; they talk of everything in the Superlative degree, and gave us a large account of their Royall Navy, which when we came to enquire into was only one single Ship, call'd by that name, comanded by Captain Gordon, who has taken severall Ffrench prizes with her : The Highlander's dress is very pretty, he wears a Scotch plodd over his Shoulders, like a Scarfe, and a great Basket hiked Sword by his side, a Pistoll tuck't into his Belt, a Bonnet with a Bunch of Ribbons on his head, and a pair of pumps on his feet, with which hee'l travell 60 miles a day, We met by chance with a Highland Ballad, in great esteem amongst them, and because it containes most of their hard words, I thought it proper to transcribe it, It's call'd the Bridall and goes to the following Tune. 1 1 The earliest printed copy now known of this ballad is that in Watson's " Choice Collection of Scots Poems," Part I. 1706. With a few trifling differences, the text given in the present manuscript 138 A Journey to Edenborough x-4 - . -, I F t- i --n i I ^^f^^^r-j-j-j-j^P^ m - t- -&