^ ^ Q s 2 -i:; .Jr'^^ \-< 'mmm^ "^/saiAiNn-Jwv vr. ^ %a3AIN(]]ViV 'j,OFCAlIF0/?^ ^OFCAilFOff/il^ ^^\^E•UNIVERV,J) ^ o ^ILIBRARYQ^ a^ILIBRARYQ^^ '^Aa3AINn-3WV^ %0JnV3J0^ ^ '^ii3AINa-3l\v .^;OFCALIFO% ^OFCALIF0% t?5 te *H/r^ 1 bo 'i/ojnv3jo^ ^WEUNIVERS'//) ^VlOSANCELfj> CO %a3AINn3WV^ OFCAllFOfi!^ s7 \MEUNIVER% o ^lOSANCElfj>. o '%a3AINfl3WV ■^ •K IVERV4 AVlOSANCElfj> ^\SllIBRARY6?^ -^ILIBRARYQ^ -\ inN^ /^lirtinvjT irxNO' Ml llfffi i i^f^l if'^^ -'i?Aavjian-i^ ^ o -< ^;^l•LIBRARYQc ^llIBRARYQf %OJI]V0-JO^ ^ o >;,OFCAilFO% .^;OFCAilFO% 3 -< ^^lllBRARY^^ ^^t-LIBRARY^?/ '^.i/ojnvojo^ ^ Si ^riijoNVsoi^"^ ^lOSANCElfj> > -< "^aaAiNnawv^ ^OFCAilF0% .^,OFCAllFOfi»^ ^ . — ^ %nv8aii#^ ^^ AWEUNIVER5'/a v^lOSANCElfx^ -^(i/ojnvjjo"^ aj dawned when we had already traveled some distance and our camp had long since been out of sight and in possession of the enemy. We crossed the Arkansas River July 4, and cel- ebrated the day after crossing by some extras at dinner, a grand bonfire and some homemade fire- works in the evening. Our marches were not always made near cool springs, and often we marched from water to water carrying what we could in our canteens; but this supply soon became -warm and unfit for use, and considerable suft'ering would result. Sometimes as 22 we approached water holes, or buffalo wallows, filled with water, the dogs would plunge in before we could unsling our canteens. We found the Arkansas River water, when encamped on that stream, red with mud and quite uninviting in appearance, but after dipping out a pailful and letting it stand a few minutes the sediment would settle and the water become clear and delicious to drink. The daily march was not a long one, averaging only 15 to 18 miles, but with slow pace, three miles an hour or less, and many halts and obstacles before us to overcome, like broken roads and fords to cross. Cavalry proceeds v/ith no greater speed than in- fantry, when encumbered with heavy trains, and three miles an hour was considered a fair average across the plains. Sometimes our march covered only 10 miles, and again we made a long journey. It depended very much upon the supply of wood, water and grass. It was easy enough to find rattlesnakes, if one wished, near camp, or a little way on either side of the marching column. The plains were full of them then, and they were much dreaded in camp, where they often appeared, sometimes startling the cooks near the morning campfire, or even crawling beside the sleeping soldier wrapped in his blanket in his tent. We found one in our tent one morning, and you can imagine our fright. The snake paid for his intrusion with his life, however, but that was poor comfort to us. One afternoon, after making camp, a friend of mine went out for a walk but a little way from the hospital tent. He had re- moved his riding boots and wore a light pair of slippers. In climbing a little rising ground a 23 rattlesnake bit him on the itistep. The wound was sucked upon his reaching camp and carefully cauterized, and a heavy dose of whiskey given him. He was put to bed in the ambulance and never ex- perienced any further trouble from the wound. The whiskey was supposed to have cured him. He was a brave fellow, not easily frightened, for after be- ing bitten he sat down, and, taking careful aim with his pistol, shot the snake through the head and brought his remains to camp as a trophy. The rattlesnake bite it not always so easily cured. In this case the snake may have emptied its poison bag shortly before he bit the soldier, or the venom may have been stopped by the stocking or slipper from reaching the wound. I used to take a cavalry saber and ride just a little way from the line and cut off the heads of the snakes from horseback. I would then cut off the rattles and send them home in let- ters as curiosities. The rattlesnake sounds a loud alarm before he strikes, usually giving one some chance for defense. It was not permitted for any member of the train to loiter behind or to separate from the command, except by special permission of the commanding officer. One hot day we passed a little clump of trees, and a friend suggested a short halt and rest. We dismounted and tied our horses. Sitting down and leaning against the trunk of a tree, we were soon fast asleep. At last awakening, what was our astonishment to find ourselves alone, without a liv- ing soul in sight and nothing of the train in the distance. We noticed by the sun that we must have rested some time, and with a few hasty words we Averc in the saddle galloping in the direction of 24 the train as fast as we could go. We were in the enemy's country, and to have awakened in the pres- ence of a party of Sioux Indians would have been a rough termination for our peaceful nap, with a terrible ending, no doubt. Death is always prefer- able to capture by Indians, for horrible torture is as sure as the death, which must come, when the poor prisoner's body is unable to offer more fun for the cruel captors. It was very much like a narrow es- cape, and we were glad to meet our comrades again and say no more about it. We took all the precautions possible against an at- tack by Indians, and at one place a severe battle with them seemed inevitable. This was at a ford called the Cimarron Crossing. Here the savages were in strong force. They had been following us for days, and an attack at daybreak the next morn- ing was accordingly prepared for. Strong pickets were posted on our right, center and left. No herd went out that night, but all animals were securely tied to wagons to prevent the Indians stampeding them. The whole command slept on their arms, ready for immediate action. Towards evening the guard had lost several members by soldiers reporting sick, and the writer obtained permission from the com- manding officer to go out on picket as a volunteer and not only that but good Major Whitney insisted upon adding his pistol, too, to the pistol carried by the writer. The picket on the right was the station given him. It consisted of three men and a non- commissioned officer. We spread down our ponchos and blankets, and flat on our stomachs we watched along the grass tops for any signs of approaching foes. Our orders were, if attacked, to retreat toward camp, giving the alarm as we retreated. 26 Slowly the night passed away. Our attention was divided between watching for Indians and defend- ing ourselves against swarms of murderous mosquitoes. It was shortly after midnight when the Sergeant detected one or two figures approaching us from the direction of the Indians. We had only a little while before noticed some signals made by means of fire-ar- rows, arrows with burning brands attached, shot into the air at regular intervals, and so the stealthily-ap- proaching figures Ave supposed was the beginning of an unusual event — an Indian attack by night. Our Ser- geant roused us all, and Avith carbines at ready we AA-e Avaited their approach, intending to abandon our blankets and hasten back to camp and give the alarm. ''Who goes there?" roared our Sergeant. No reply; but still the figures stealthily approached. Once more the challenge rang out, and aa^c AA^ere noAV well ready to retreat, for the figures were getting within range. We intended to give them a A\'arm reception before we left from our good Sharp's carbines. Just as Ave Avere about to feel sure the enemy was indeed upon us, came the response in the night air, "Officer of the Day; grand rounds." Hoav that little mes- sage thrilled us. Although it brought friends in- stead of foes, it seemed as if there must be some mistake, so certain were Ave of attack and dan- ger. The Officer of the Guard carried no lantern; had only one Guard besides the Corporal Avith him, and in the darkness had gotten beyond our station, and only found us after consid- erable difficulty. Our first challenge was unheard, and our second, by reason of the distance, Avas nearly as indistinct to him as his answer seemed to us. He left us after warning us that just at daybreak we would probably be attacked; but our wily foe had discovered our alertness and decided it would be best to let us alone. For this extra service com- mendation Avas ample reward and although promised was never heard of afterwards. Indians rarely de- sire to fight, but are always ready for stealing. As the weather grew warmer the marching toward noon was attended with considerable fatigue, and there were many cases of sunstroke. One day several fell off their horses, and the medical department had plenty to do. Near the hospital tent the two ambulances were always located in camp. The driver of one of these vehicles had made himself somewhat unpopular with the young Hospital Stewards who were with the expedition. It was decided one night to discipline him. It was a night when, by reason of our prox- imity to the Indians, the mules, instead of being out on herd, were tied to the tongue of the ambulances. Our disagreeable driver had his team nearest our tent, and he himself was fast asleep, dreaming per- chance of the money he would make by selling stolen corn at the next settlement. We went out carefully and collected a dozen or more empty tin cans — plentiful enough after any meal on the plains ; these w^e brought to our tent. The mules were quiet and all the camp was still. Suddenly there was a great commotion, the mules sprang up and tugged at their chains, making a great noise and thoroughly dis- turbing and enraging our ambulance driver, who, springing out, with kicks and imprecations punished them for disturbing his slumbers. We tried the trick again later on with the same result, but the third time we were discovered. Either our victim 27 suspected foul play or the rattle of the cans had attracted his attention, and with angry strides he came to our tent door. "Look out for me, young fellows; it you do that again I will report you to the Officer of the Day." Jeers greeted his depar- ture, and we went to rest to concoct new trials for his patience. The "Old Man," as we called him, had been cheating his mules of their corn supply, and was trying to save a bag or two to sell when a good chance presented itself. A friend of mine decided to join me in taking some of his plunder. The corn ration for our horses was exhausted, and for several days we had nothing to give them ex- cept the grass of the prairies. So when we dis- covered the well-filled bags of the driver, we deter- mined to take some of Uncle Sam's corn to support and strengthen Uncle Sam's horses. It certainly could not be considered stealing. With a basket and a towel placed so as to deaden any noise, we tapped his bags night after night for the benefit of our Government horses. He found us out at last, and although he hated us well for it, could not risk re- porting us without disclosing his own dishonesty. The good condition of our horses attracted the at- tention of several, but we never explained where our corn came from. Our Paymaster had received at Fort Leavenworth a large sum cf money to take with him to Santa Fe, N. M., for the payment of the troops. A strong iron safe had been provided by the Government to carry these funds across the plains to the District Headquarters. The Paymaster received the funds in a small iron safe. Upon consultation with his clerk it was decided to remove the money 28 from the safe and hide it in a strong wooden box, which was placed, when tilled, in the bottom of the Major's mess-chest. The small empty safe was placed in the large safe, and carefully locked up The large safe was placed in the bottom of an army wagon and a special sentry detailed to guard it. The lawless, reckless characters amongst the recruits actually planned making a disturbance or mutiny, and intended to murder any who should oppose them in carrying off the wagon containing the safe, and, as they supposed, a large sum of money. By good luck and the weakening of one of the rascals, their plans were suspected and extra precautions taken. The officers succeeded in secur- ing some faithful men, who, together with the old soldiers, made a formidable guard. I well remember the afternoon our good Surgeon came to the hospital tent and informed us of the anticipated mutiny and robbery. It was agreed that upon the first syraiptoms of revolt, or upon hear- ing any firing, that we, with all who were faithful, should rally at the commanding officer's tent and fight for our lives and the Government property The preparations for resisting the outbreak were dis- covered, and the attempt was given up. Had the rascals, however, succeeded in their designs and car- ried off the wagon containing the safe, what would have been their dismay to find it quite empty of money, after their efforts to break it open. The other wagon, containing the Paymaster's camp and baggage, also contained the mess-chest in which the precious money had been hidden, unknown and un- guarded, and in a box which could have been opened by a common chisel. This secret was well kept, and 29 not even known by the commanding officer. The Paymaster's clerk related this to me months after the expedition had been disbanded and the money spent. As the tram advanced over the prairies hundreds of eyes scanned the horizon in every direction, and any unusual object at once arrested attention and stimulated curiosity. The plains are something like the ocean, a great wilderness with little to see ex- cept sky and grass, save here and there a spot of timber near some stream. Monstrous, lonely, dreary, it is so dull that the least thing like change is a treat. A train approaching from the opposite di- rection, a scouting party of soldiers, or a few emi- grant wagons, will create all the excitement that a sail on the ocean approaching one after days away from shore always brings. One day, far off on the left of the train, a horse was discovered, ap- parently wounded, for he remained on the ground, now and then floundering about as if in pain. 1 was asked to ride out and examine him and report if he was wounded by bullets, arrows, or mereh" abandoned by some train as worthless. My good horse Billy soon brought me to the spot. I looked about for an instant to discover any signs of camp or battleground, and then dismounting I walked up to the poor horse to see if he was wounded or had broken his leg, or was merely sick and worn out. Just as I bent forward to examine him he rolled over, lifting his legs high in the air, thoroughly frightening my horse, who gave a wild snort, and snatching tht rein suddenly from my grasp, galloped off at a wild rate over the prairie. No call of mine would stop him, and it was a long, hard walk, past many a deadly rattlesnake to reach the train ; when I climbed in 30 lonely humiliation upon the feeding trough of an army wagon, while two troopers chased Billy for miles before they could catch him. The horses furnished our cavalry at that time were really fine animals, and some were worthy to carry a prince. They came in good condition, and I re- member one, a large iron-gray horse, the envy of many a cavalryman. More than one tried to ride him, but met with ugly throws and great discour- agements. So many gave him up that he was con- sidered too vicious for use. At last an old soldier, who served through the war of the rebellion, said thar he ''would ride him or perish in the attempt." The permission was given, and the "Iron Duke" saddled and bridled. The soldier mounted, and then began a struggle I have never seen equaled. A gallant horseman and a gallant steed. It was exciting to witness the wild leaps and plunging and rearing of the steed, but the soldier kept his seat. The horse at length, maddened and desperate, threw himself on the ground, and quickly rolling over, nearly killed his rider. The soldier was carried to the hospital tent and found to be completely ruined for further military service. He was discharged and pensioned. The horse was led to the line, but the fire was gone from his eye, and he walked with a conquered gait. After that anyone could ride him, and his hand- some looks departed. He was indeed subdued. As we neared Colorado the scenery changed, with views of the glorious Rockies in the distance. The Spanish Peaks, always "a day's journey away," re- mained in sight for many days. As we entered New IMexico the mountains became a reality, and harti climbing and difficult roads were now of daily occur- 31 rence. On we marched, over the winding "Picket Wire," or Purgatory river, through the wild Eaton Pass, and then down into the lovely scenery of New Mexico; past the "Wagon Mound," famous for the gallant fight of a handful of emigrants, who here successfully held at bay a host of savage Indians. The dark mud walls of Fort Union came at last into view, and we entered a charming valley and were soon within the Reservation. Our march was ended; its trials and its pleasures, its dangers and its adventures. For the last time our camp was pitched. On the morrow we must separate. As the last notes of the evening bugle echoed in the surrounding hills, we realized that ouu train had reached its goal and that the morrow's sun would find us separating from each other for our new duties and stations. The expedition was at last a thing of the past — disbanded. 32 Dr. W. T. Parker at IT yrs. of age in the U. S. Army Medical Dept. as Firtt ClaBB Hospital Steward, U. S. A. THE SANTA FE TRAIL IN THE SIXTIES. Fifty years ago our schoolboy geographies showed a great expanse of almost unmapped region, named "the great American desert!" It may be said to have extended from 95 degrees to 105 degrees longi- tude west and from 30 degrees to 49 degrees north latitude. In the spring of 1867 rumors were received from all quarters of a renewal of Indian hostilities and attacks on the principal emigrant routes increased to such an extent that it required the utmost activ- ity on the part of the troops to keep open com- munication with our territories, and protect working parties on the important railroads then in process of construction. Since the Indian commission provided by act of July 20th, 1864, commenced its labors the operation of troops had been confined to the defensive, and they were principally engaged in guarding the more im- portant posts. Department commanders visited the scenes of hostilities in person and made every effort with the means at hand to afford protection. In 1867 some of the most powerful tribes of Indians were active on the Great Plains and the Santa Fe trail came in for its share of attention from the Sioux, Kiowas, Cheyennes, Apaches of the Plains, Comanches, "Dog Warriors" and other bands of Indians. 33 "The amount of freight carried by caravans from the Missouri river to Santa Fe, New Mexico, as early as 1860 was estimated at more than thirty-six mil- lion pounds, and emigrants with goods and stock made constant travel over the famous trail, enduring the hardships and surmounting the difficulties and dangers, continued through the 60 's to brave all these dangers, as well as traders and merchants carrying great supplies to the southwest." The great American desert as we saw it then for the first time in '67 has disappeared. In its place to-day we find great pasture lands, farms, villages, towns and cities. Where we marched slowly and amid sufferings and dangers, we can pass along the same route reclining comfortably in the chairs of a parlor car, and in an hour pass the camping places of days "in the Sixties!" But the thousands who have come from far awa>' homes to make a home in Kansas and New Mexico, know little of the battle which was fought to secura the West to civilization. In the old frontier days the great plain was only sparsely protected by the so-called, "forts," and the feeble garrisons had self preservation ever in necessity, although the needi of the weaker added increasing trials and dangers to situations often desperate. The chain of forts began with Leavenworth, a strong and secure gar- rison, then westward to Riley, also safe in its strength, but beyond, the little forts of Harker, Lamed, Zarah, Dodge, Lyon, and Bent's fort, were by no means secure. Along the Santa Fe trail the anxious emigrants rested with thankful hearts near these little stations, and renewed their preparations to continue the westward journey. These forts had 34 been constructed at heavy expense, and with great toil and hardship by the soldiers who worked like day laborers in their construction, in addition to their military duties. The Santa Fe trail was the artery which nourished much of this important re- gion. The forts could be found only at infrequent intervals from Fort Leavenworth in Eastern Kan- sas, down to Fort Union in New Mexico, and be- yond Santa Fe the "trail" continued past Fort Craig. And beyond the Rio Grande stretched the grim "Jornada del Muerto," the journey of death, nearly a hundred miles, where, after reaching Fori; Selden, it continued on to Fort Cummings in South- eastern New ]\Iexico, and 40 or 50 miles further to Fort Bayard, and so on past the deadly Apache pass, and Fort Bowie, into the Arizona desert. On May 22nd, 1867, a detachment of less than 400 men, mostly recruits for the famous 3rd U. S. Cavalry, which had been stationed for so many months in the southwest, and already famous as Indian fighters — marched out of Fort Leavenworth en-route for New Mexico. At Fort Eiley the re- mainder of the expedition joined and proceeded westward under command of Major Whiting. Among the officers were Surgeon Peters, Paymaster Rochester, Captain Lieber, Quartermaster's Depart- ment, and Lieutenants Hildebran, P. F. Young, D. H. Quinby, Thompson and Charles Morris (now colonel U. S. army), and some members of the non- commissioned staff of the army, pay and medical departments. There were several ladies traveling with the command, some of them brides going to join their husbands at lonely frontier stations. Many of the great army wagons carried army sup- 35 plies, arms and ammiinition, and a large amount of money; 300 led horses also added great attractions for our alert Indian enemies. Of the cavalrymen less than 50 were veterans, and only 21 were known as "picked men" for scouting and flank work. The recruits were below the average, and among them many reckless characters, some of whom were regular horse thieves who had enlisted at Carlisls Barracks, Pa., bent only on adventure and horse stealing; of these several who deserted with horses were captured and killed by Indians. Desertions and loss of horses, arms and equipments, etc., began soon after leaving Fort Eiley and continued in spite of the presence of large bodies of hostile Indians un- til the crossing of the Arkansas, below Bent's Fort, on the Santa Fe trail. Indians were continually threatening and at the Cimarron Crossing, such a large number of Siour, Cheyennes, Apaches of the Plains, Blackfeet, Kiowas, Arapahoes, Dog Warriors, and other Indians had collected that the odds were reckoned as "ten to one ! ' ' Most of the men, as already stated, wer3 unfit to meet such an ovenvhelming force of well- armed and Avell-mounted Indians. The day and night at the Cimarron was a time of great anxiety and danger. The camp was formed as usual, three sides of a square resting on the river, with army wagons in double line, and in the hollow square the ambulances for the women, the long rope lines for the cavalry horses, the mules tied to the wagons. Three strong pickets were posted, in one of which the writer spent most of the night, right rear, right center and right advance, with a guard on the river, and the entire command rested on their arms 36 throughout the night prepared for iramecliate action. As we had an experienced Indian fighter in Major Whiting, our commander, we crossed the plains with all possible discipline and caution, and ever ready to meet attack and avoid surprises or ambush. The wagon masters were prepared to form a large oval with the wagons, within which ambulances, horses and soldiers could find shelter. This movc^ ment could be carried out on the march immediately upon given signals. Far out on our right flank rode in advance our most trusty scouts, and flankers of picked men. The advance guard of cavalrymen led the column. It would be the rearguard to-mor- row, and between, squadrons of cavalry, divisions of our army train, wagons and ambulances and extra led cavalry horses. To our left was the great Arkansas river. It was quite a formidable looking column, but' unfortunately we had no cannon. The daily life varied little. We had our reveille at 3 o'clock in dangerous regions, and by dawn all the tents were stored in the wagons and the entire command in the saddle moving out of our old camp ground while our Indian foes cautiously crept up to our smouldering fires looking for our leavings. We never exchanged shots with them, nor even shouts, but we watched each other in silence ready for an emergency. The command marched on the average three miles an hour, for although we were of a cavalry com- mand, the pace is ever set by the mule wagons, which is usually three miles an hour, although often less. Some days we could only travel 12 miles dur- ing the entire march owing to heavy or rough roads, or dangerous surroundings, or the delay incident to 37 fording, or accidents on the trail. Other days we would march our average 21 miles. Guard mount was in the afternoon, following sick call, and early evening found us with lights out, resting on the beds of army blankets spread on the prairie grass. Now and then a sudden rain storm would strike tht tents, and add confusion and discomfort to camp life. Once owing to a sudden rise of water, we lost two troopers by drowning, and also several wagons loaded with army supplies were stuck in the mud and abandoned. Once some wagons were saved only by sacrificing bags of sugar and flour. On one occasion the commanding officer discovered that a plan had been formed by some desperate characters among the recruits to seize by force and carry oft' the wagons supposed to contain the money which the pajTiiaster was taking to New Mexico, but our old Indian fighter was ready for the conspirators and the plan was foiled. On the march oats and corn gave out and the horses and mules fared poorly for a time with no other food than prairie grass and muddy water. The soldiers' clothing and boots wore out and "gun- ny sacks" used as armless sweaters, and rags tied about the feet had to answer the need. Food be- came scarce and soaked hard tack was a luxury. Our camp fire fuel was mostly "buffalo chip," dried dung, of which vast quantities then covered the great prairies, as did also the white bones of thtB buffalo, and not infrequently we found human bones telling of possible "battle and murder and sudden death." The following letter from Colonel Morris, U. S. army, is interesting in this connection : 38 "I was one of the officers that accompanied Majoi' Whiting's command to New Mexico in 1867. Be- sides the officers you mention (Qiiinby, Thompson, Rochester, Dr. Peters and Young) there was a Lieut. Hildebran of the cavalry and Capt. Lieber, a mili- tary store keeper of the Q. M. Department. I remember very well that eventful day and night at the Cimarron Crossing. In our efforts to mak