LlSxARY I 
 
 UN!V!: ^;».TY OF J 
 
 {\' 
 
v^ /k^. 
 
 
 VI 
 
 
SOME RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL, 
 
SOME KECOLLECTIONS 
 
 THE LIFE 
 
 LiEUT.-CoL. P. P. NEVILL 
 
 LATE MAJOR 63rd REGIMENT. 
 
 o0^=Hj > G' ' O - 
 
 COX & WYMAN, 
 LINCOLN'S INN STEAM PRINTING WORKS, 
 
 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LONDON, W.C. 
 
 1864. 
 

 TO 
 THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 THE EAEL OF ABEEGAVENNY, 
 
 ETC. ETC. ETC. 
 ERIDGE [CASTLE. 
 
 2^ 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In compliance with the wishes of an only 
 Brother and some few of my old Comrades 
 who are yet alive, I venture to publish these 
 Recollections of my Life. 
 
 P.N. 
 
 1, Castle Yard, Windsor. 
 December, 1863. 
 
h 
 
 ERRATA 
 
 Page 5, line 8, for Sabuzal read Sabugal. 
 34, „ 19, ybr Haste read Hoste. 
 4G, „ 17, for Aubervillores read Aiibervilliers. 
 1 84, „ 9, for polished marble read polished as marble. 
 198, last line,/(w Peishwar, read Peishwa. 
 
RECOLLECTIONS, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 1794—1812. 
 
 IT happens that I am the son of a soldier, 
 but not of a veteran one. 
 
 My father, who served in the old American 
 War, used to amuse me, and raise mj martial 
 desires sometimes, by an account of his deeds 
 of arms, particularly at the battle of Bunker's 
 Hill, where it was said, he behaved very well. 
 
 He had a sword of a formidable kind, and 
 being a powerful man, he used to whirl this 
 weapon with much rapidity round his head, 
 and show me how he slew two men who 
 attacked him when leading on his platoon 
 against the enemy. 
 
 Being on leave from the army, he met, at a 
 soiree in Dublin Castle, the grand-daughter of 
 his friend Lieut. -Colonel Pepper, of Ballygarth 
 
Z SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Castle, county Meath. This lady, whom my 
 father induced to marry him, was my honoured 
 mother. 
 
 My father disposed of his commission at an 
 early age on being offered a civil situation in 
 Dublin, and finally established himself there, 
 where I was bom; 
 
 My relatives in England had for the most 
 part been military men, and I was particularly 
 proud of a grand-uncle who served under King 
 George II., and who led a charge of cavalry at 
 the battle of Dettingen in 1743. Before this 
 charge took place, the king had ordered his 
 cavalry forward by echelon of squadrons from 
 the right, but from some mistake in the order, 
 they advanced to the front, without changing 
 the direction required. 
 
 Lieut.-General Nevill, who commanded the 
 cavalry, ordered the trumpets to sound the 
 charge, and he at their head, in his ardour 
 to attack, calling out " Dash along, my brave 
 men," pressed on, and nearly upset the king 
 and his staff. 
 
 Whether this anecdote be true or not, certain 
 it is that the general succeeded in his charge 
 against the enemy's centre, which circumstance 
 mainly caused our army to gain the day. 
 
 Having at college received a pretty good 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. .3 
 
 military education, and a few prizes, I obtained 
 a commission in the 30th Eegiment when six- 
 teen years of age, and in a few weeks after 
 proceeded to the depot of that regiment and 
 appHed to join the 2nd Battahon, stationed at 
 Cadiz, during its siege in 1810 by Marshal 
 Soult. In the August of that year, the detach- 
 ment to which I belonged arrived there, and 
 never shall I forget the striking effect this 
 beautiful city and harbour had upon us on our 
 approach to it, about five o'clock in the evening 
 of a fine day. There our fleet lay, and at that 
 hour each ship fired the signal gun, and in the 
 air at that moment were some large shells, 
 fired by the enemy, which were seen bursting 
 over the city and the fleet ; but they appeared 
 to do little harm and were not much heeded in 
 the town, for around its sea-board were seen 
 crowds of Spanish women, some splendidly 
 dressed, who, with their cavaliers, were pro- 
 menading about, intermingled with British and 
 Spanish officers in full dress. There were also 
 numerous monks and friars in their varied 
 costumes, and altogether it was a novel and 
 impressive sight. 
 
 About the middle of September the battalion 
 was ordered to hold itself in readiness to em- 
 bark for Lisbon. We got on board two days 
 
 B 2 
 
4 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 after, and on tlie 30tli arrived at that place, 
 where an order awaited ns to march to join the 
 5th Division of Lord WeUington's army, which 
 we accordingly did, after the battle of Busaoo 
 had been fought and gained a short time before. 
 In October, the army went into winter quarters, 
 protected by the celebrated lines of Torres 
 Yedras from the threatened attack of Marshal 
 Massena's numerous army, the head-quarters 
 of which were on our front, at the town of 
 Santarem. The French army were cantoned 
 in villages around that town, or occupied such 
 quarters as they could get, in their own rear. 
 
 The army remained in the lines of Torres 
 Yedras until the spring of 1811, and were 
 occupied in strengthening those lines and in 
 the usual exercise and drill of regiments. 
 General Bei-esford, who commanded the Portu- 
 guese levies, took this favourable opportunity of 
 getting them into a good state of discipline. 
 In the meantime no serious attack on us took 
 place, though there were some outpost fights, 
 which were always repelled by our pickets. 
 
 The Marshal Prince of Essling, seeing little 
 chance of success in forcing our strong position, 
 and having lost a great number of his men 
 by sickness and want of supplies, retreated 
 through Portugal. His army was divided 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 5 
 
 into three great bodies, whicli relieved each 
 other alternately, in order to check our advance, 
 and under the guidance of Marshal Ney, in a 
 masterly manner reached the frontiers, crossed 
 the river Agueda, and established themselves in 
 a strong position there. Ere this took place, 
 some brilliant affairs or combats occurred at 
 Pombal, Eodhinia, Alfayates, and Sabuzal, &c., 
 where the enemy exhibited much skill in de- 
 fending their retreating army ; but they were 
 driven back at length, chiefly by the celebrated 
 Light Division of Lord Wellington's army. 
 
 When the enemy crossed the Agueda, they 
 appeared to leave the fortress of Almeida to its 
 fate, and our army occupied a strong position 
 on the banks of the same river opposite to the 
 enemy, investing Almeida with the 6th Division, 
 but not closely. Here we remained some time 
 watching each other's army ; at length, on the 
 3rd and 5th of May was fought the battle of 
 Fuentes d'Onoro, and gained by us. Some time 
 after, the garrison of Almeida made a gallant 
 attempt to escape from this fortress, after 
 having destroyed the guns and mined the for- 
 tifications. General Brenier, who commanded, 
 took advantage of a dark night, and having 
 formed his garrison in one close body, his bag- 
 gage in the centre, escaped, being unobserved 
 
b SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 by the pickets about the fortress,* to the 
 bridge of Barba del Puerco, across the Agueda. 
 Lord WelHngton, who had some previous know- 
 ledge of this attempt to escape on the part of 
 the garrison, had ordered a strong regiment of 
 our brigade, the 2nd of the 5th Division, to 
 occupy the bridge in question, supported by 
 the light companies of the brigade. Unfor- 
 tunately through the darkness of the night, 
 the advancing regiment missed its way. The 
 light companies who marched later reached the 
 bridge about daylight, just as the rear of the 
 garrison was passing, which they instantly 
 attacked, capturing about two hundred and 
 fifty men and some baggage : the rest escaped 
 to the French army, who retreated, and imme- 
 diately after appeared the missing regiment. 
 The light company I belonged to, with the 
 others engaged!, lost no time in opening French 
 knapsacks and securing their valuable contents, 
 and the ofl&cers had some trouble to get them 
 into order, and secure the prisoners. 
 
 We visited Almeida, although from the fre- 
 quent explosions round the works of the place, 
 it was rather dangerous, but only two men 
 
 * Excepting the pickets of General Pack, who at once 
 gave an alarm, but it was too late, 
 t The cavalry picket. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 7 
 
 were injured. As we entered tlie town we saw 
 the few remaining inhabitants outside their 
 doors, looking in a most deplorable state, seem- 
 ingly starving : some of us relieved the poor 
 creatures as well as we could. 
 
 The much exhausted enemy retired into 
 Spain to their supplies, leaving only some 
 troops on the frontiers, and we were glad to have 
 solne rest. The commander of the forces was 
 anxiously looking out for reinforcements from 
 home, and doing anything and everything his 
 great and fertile mind could possibly do, to get 
 his army into good order. It appears from the 
 account of eminent writers on this war, that 
 Lord Wellington at this period, had no more 
 than nineteen thousand effective English in the 
 field, and something like ten thousand Portu- 
 guese, a force quite inadequate to attack the 
 enemy. 
 
 In the north, the main body of the army 
 continued to remain, for the most part of 1811, 
 in their cantonments, without being attacked ; 
 but in June, the French Marshal Marmont, an 
 able tactician, advanced with his army to mea- 
 sure swords with Lord Wellington, who had 
 received reinforcements, making up the EngHsh 
 army to thirty thousand men, and a well-disci- 
 plined Portuguese force. 
 
8 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 To tte south, liis lordship had detached 
 two divisions of his army, with two divisions 
 of Portuguese troops, and a brigade of cavalry,* 
 to Marshal Beresford, who on their arrival 
 immediately commenced laying siege to the 
 strong fortress of Badajoz, situated near the 
 south frontier of Portugal. Here he was 
 joined by some ten thousand men of the Spanish 
 army, but they were badly disciplined, and 
 badly officered, and therefore not much to be 
 depended on. 
 
 Marshal Beresford attacked fort St. Chris- 
 toval, a strong work on the left bank of the 
 Guadiana river, on a hill overlooking Badajoz ; 
 here he had his principal battery, and made a 
 breach, which he attempted to storm, but failed, 
 when Marshal Soult advanced with a French 
 army of twenty thousand men to raise the siege, 
 and this brought on one of the most sanguinary 
 battles on record. Marshal Beresford had 
 hardly tinie to place his army in position to 
 cover Badajoz, when he was attacked at Al- 
 buera by the enemy. The Marshal's strength 
 in British troops was seven thousand five hun- 
 dred men, with eight thousand disciplined 
 
 * At this time the 13th Dragoons made a brilliant charge 
 on a large detachment of the enemy, in convoy of stores 
 for Badajoz, which they captured, but were not supported. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 9 
 
 Portuguese, and a large division of the Spanish 
 army, though these latter appear to have done 
 but little in the fight. The French fought with 
 the utmost determination to gain the day, but 
 so stoutly were they opposed, principally by the 
 British troops, that they failed. The Fusilier 
 brigade covered itself with glory in this action. 
 
 It is not for me, who was not there, and a 
 very young officer, as I was then, to give a 
 detailed description of this battle, or any other, 
 neither do I think it possible for a regimental 
 officer to do so ; for when he is present with 
 his regiment in a battle, he has quite enough to 
 do to attend to his own immediate duty. Suffice 
 it, therefore, for me to say, that out of the before 
 mentioned seven thousand five hundred British, 
 they lost in killed and wounded, most of the last 
 severely, four thousand three hundred men. 
 The Portuguese lost about four hundred, and 
 the Spanish army somewhat more, in this battle 
 of Albuera, which we gained, and Marshal Soult, 
 having lost eight thousand men, retired. 
 
 Marshal Beresford then attempted to take 
 fort St. Christoval, but failed. Lord Wellington 
 hastened to the spot, raised the siege, and re- 
 turned to the north with his whole army, 
 excepting a strong division of troops placed 
 under General Hill, to observe the south. 
 
10 SOME EECOLLECTIOx\S IN THE 
 
 Marshal Marmont, having on the north fron- 
 tier dedined to meet Lord WeUington, retired 
 to his supplies at Salamanca. During the re- 
 mainder of the year 1811 we remained in can- 
 tonments, excepting when threatened by the 
 enemy, either north or south, when we had 
 many a weary march to meet them, but nothing 
 of consequence took place. 
 
 In the beginning of January, 1812, Lord 
 Wellington assumed the offensive ; crossed the 
 Aguedawith his Light Division, stormed a strong 
 work on a sloping hill overlooking Ciudad Rod- 
 rigo, and supported by the 3rd Division and the 
 Portuguese troops, &c., under General Pack, laid 
 close siege to that fortress, which is on rising 
 ground on the right bank of the Agueda. The 
 inner walls are of the old system of defence, 
 but 2b fausse-braie on the modern system of forti- 
 fication surrounds it, resting on the river face, 
 and making it a place of much strength. 
 
 It was at this siege I became first employed 
 to act as an assistant-engineer, and was set to 
 work in making gabions and fascines for the 
 batteries. In a few days we carried a fortified 
 convent which annoyed us, and our parallels 
 were constructed with such good will, that in 
 a week we made an advanced breaching-battery 
 before the work on the hill, which we had 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 11 
 
 already captured, and mounted our guns, from 
 whicli we battered in a breach. Here we had 
 twenty-two 24-pounders and a smaller battery 
 on the left to breach a flank work destined for 
 the Light Division to storm. On the 19th both 
 breaches were ready. The great breach in our 
 front was immediately stormed and taken by 
 the 3rd Division and General Pack ; whilst the 
 Light Division stormed the small breach on the 
 left. Both were gallantly taken; but we un- 
 fortunately lost one of the best officers of our 
 army — General Crawford, commanding the Light 
 Division. General Mackinnon and several men 
 were blown up by a mine on entering the great 
 breach ; but our loss, though heavy, was not 
 so very great, considering the result. 
 
 Immediately on capturing the place, we set 
 to work in repairing the breaches and strength- 
 ening the outwork first taken on the opposite 
 hill. In the meantime the French army under 
 Marmont advanced, but on finding the place 
 had fallen, retired. 
 
 For this conquest Lord Wellington was made 
 an earl, which we all were rejoiced to hear. 
 
 The breaches being repaired, the place was 
 given over to the Spanish army, and the Earl 
 of Wellington lost no time in marching to the 
 south, where he crossed the Guadiana and laid 
 
12 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 siege to Badajoz. I found myself in orders to 
 act as assistant- engineer, and attached to a 
 brigade for that purpose. 
 
 We commenced our parallels on the 17th of 
 March,* and continued them under torrents 
 of rain, which deluged the trenches, the camp, 
 and everything about us. This weather con- 
 tinued several days, and we were often above 
 our knees in water ; but our men worked with 
 an ardour beyond all praise — the Royal En- 
 gineer officers and their assistants had only to 
 tell them what to do, and it was done. 
 
 At length the weather became fine and warm, 
 which soon enabled us to clear the trenches of 
 water, and we were then able to get up some 
 batteries to keep down the enemy's fire, which 
 galled us very much, particularly from fort 
 Piccurina and the ravelin of St. Eoque. Both 
 of those advanced works were stormed in very 
 gallant style, which enabled us to advance our 
 parallels, and at length to establish our breach- 
 ing - batteries. We had the guns used at 
 Ciudad Rodrigo and some others, and when all 
 was ready opened fire on the bastion of La 
 Trinadad and curtain of St. Maria, and on the 
 breaches becoming practicable they were or- 
 
 * For an account of this celebrated siege, read Sir AVil- 
 liam Napier's work on tlie Peninsular War. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 13 
 
 dered to be stormed on the night of the memor- 
 able 6th of April, 1812. The breach to the 
 left was to be attacked by the Light Division ; 
 that on the right by the 4th Division, and the 
 8rd Division, well known as under the distin- 
 guished Sir Thomas Picton, was to assault the 
 castle. On the other side of Badajoz was 
 posted the 5th Division, the 2nd Brigade of 
 which, under Major- General Walker, was to 
 escalade the bastion of St. Yincent, resting on 
 the Gruadiana. To this brigade I was posted. 
 
 At about 10 p.m. on the 6th, the Light and 
 4th Divisions advanced, crossing the Rivellas 
 and an inundation in their front to their re- 
 spective attacks, and reached the ditches in 
 front of the breaches, which had been partly 
 filled by the engineers with fascines, and partly 
 by the rubbish from the breaches. 
 
 The two divisions crossed over and began to 
 ascend in silence ; hardly a shot was fired at 
 this most anxious moment, but in ascending 
 both divisions met with obstacles of so very 
 serious a nature, that it appeared impossible to 
 surmount them. 
 
 Midway up the breaches were tiers upon tiers 
 of heavy planks fixed firmly in the breaches, 
 studded over with long spikes, and a few fire- 
 balls from the enemy exposed all to their view. 
 
14 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 They cried "Yive TEmpereur," and poured down 
 on the divisions such a storm of fire, accom- 
 panied by live shells and powder-barrels, that 
 the loss in those divisions became perfectly 
 appalling. Notwithstanding this terrible ordeal 
 our men wavered not, but stood the slaughter. 
 A few of the men got round the planks to the 
 top of the breaches, and there found also 
 firmly fixed, large beams of timber covered 
 with sword blades. 
 
 The French behind them cheered again, as 
 they shot down those few men, asking " Why 
 do you not come into Badajoz." 
 
 Fortunately at this awful moment the 3rd 
 Division after two failures, escaladed the castle, 
 and established themselves there. About the 
 same time the 2nd Brigade of the 5th Division, 
 under General Walker, succeeded in escalading 
 the bastion of St. Vincent, losing half their 
 numbers, but they occupied the market-place 
 in the interior of the town. The castle being 
 taken, and our men being heard firing in the 
 town, the French were apprised of our having 
 entered it, when they became confused, broke 
 up into parties, and left the breaches. 
 
 This enabled the remains of the two divisions 
 to overcome all other obstacles and enter the 
 town also, infuriated almost to madness by 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 15 
 
 their losses; and alas ! no tongue could tell the 
 atrocities committed on that terrible night. I 
 witnessed one on entering the town. I intended 
 to join the SOth, my duty of engineer being 
 over, when I met my servant coming from the 
 arsenal, where he and others had conveyed our 
 commanding officer, poor Lieut. -Col. Grey, who 
 was mortally wounded. He had his haversack 
 seemingly well filled with plunder. I asked him 
 where the regiment was ; he answered that he 
 did not know, but that he would conduct me to 
 the camp, as I appeared to him to be wounded, 
 having some clotted blood on my face. I cer- 
 tainly was hit in the head, but in the excitement 
 of the escalade did not mind it, neither did I 
 feel a slight wound in my leg ; but as I began 
 to be rather weak I took his advice and he 
 assisted me to the bastion we had escaladed. 
 
 In passing what appeared to be a religious 
 house, I saw two soldiers dragging out an un- 
 fortunate nun, her clothes torn to pieces : in 
 her agony she knelt and held up a cross. Re- 
 morse seized one of the soldiers, who appeared 
 more sober than the other, and he swore she 
 should not be further outraged ; the other 
 soldier drew back and shot his comrade dead. 
 Immediately after, some Portuguese soldiers 
 appeared ; they ordered us to halt, and presented 
 
16 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 their muskets. I said to my servant, '' Throw 
 them some of your plunder; " he instantly took 
 off his haversack and threw it amongst them, 
 when several dollars and other silver rolled out, 
 and they let us pass. Had he not done this I 
 am sure those ruffians would have shot us, for 
 the Portuguese troops, I heard, murdered every 
 one they met. 
 
 We got safe to the bastion, and with much 
 difficulty I got down a ladder more than half- 
 way to the ditch, when I could hold on no 
 longer and tumbled down the rest of the way 
 into some mud and water, which seemed to 
 revive me. My servant helped me out and 
 carried me on his back to the camp, where I got 
 a draught of water, and I shall ever recollect 
 how delicious it was. I was then wrapped up 
 in a blanket, placed on some straw, and fell 
 asleep instantly. 
 
 I did not waken on the 7th until nearly mid- 
 day, when I saw Assistant- Surgeon Evans at 
 my side. He had some tea ready, but I felt so 
 stiff I could not move. He washed my head, 
 which a ball had grazed, and extracted a pellet 
 or very small ball which had entered over the 
 left ankle joint, but was not in so far that he 
 could not see it. 
 
 The doctor's account was, that the Governor 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 17 
 
 of Badajoz, General Pliillippon, having in tlie 
 niglit escaped across the tete-de-^ont into fort 
 St. Chris to val, had surrendered in the morning 
 to Lord WeUington, but that the plundering 
 in the town was still going on, and that 
 the loss on our side was very great. And cer- 
 tainly the governor's defence of Badajoz was 
 most ably and skilfully conducted, and he was 
 well backed up by his brave garrison. 
 
 When the details of our losses came out, it 
 appeared that more than seventy officers and 
 one thousand non-commissioned officers and 
 men were killed, and that three hundred officers 
 and near four thousand non-commissioned 
 officers and men were wounded; total, five 
 thousand tried soldiers — a great loss to the 
 army. 
 
 We remained in camp around Badajoz about 
 a week, and in three more I was enabled to join 
 my regiment. 
 
 The French marshals of the north and south 
 jfrontiers could not well make out how Lord 
 Wellington had taken two such strong for- 
 tresses, so well garrisoned and supplied, from 
 them in so short a time, and after making 
 sundry demonstrations to attack us, retired to 
 their magazines of provisions in Spain, without 
 effecting anything against our army. 
 
 
 
18 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Portugal at this time had been so completely 
 drained of food and forage by the French 
 armies, as had been also that part of Spain 
 contiguous to it, that they were compelled to 
 retire to the interior of Spain for their sup- 
 plies, while our army was generally provided 
 for by convoys from our fleet, brought up from 
 the rear, and cattle bought when they could be 
 had at a heavy expense, and always paid for on 
 the spot. 
 
 The head-quarters of Lord Wellington on 
 the north frontier were for many months at 
 Fuentes Guinaldo, whence he issued his orders 
 for the benefit of his army; while Lieut. -Gen. 
 Hill held his place in the Allentejo or south, 
 and where his division executed a gallant coup 
 de main on the French forts at Almaraz, under 
 General Gerard, taking the forts and eighteen 
 hundred prisoners. 
 
 Thus matters rested until about June, when 
 Lord Wellington, having received considerable 
 reinforcements, advanced to the city of Sala- 
 manca, obliging the French to retire, and be- 
 sieging the forts established there by the enemy 
 for its defence. In the mean [time Marshal 
 Marmont collected an army of from forty-five 
 to fifty thousand men and advanced to relieve 
 them, but the forts surrendered. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 19 
 
 And then commenced a series of manoeuvres 
 on the part of the French marshal, to frustrate 
 the endeavour of Lord WeUington to advance 
 into Spain, and also to drive his great adversary 
 back and retake Salamanca. These at length 
 brought on the ever-glorious victory of Sala- 
 manca, which was fought on the 22nd of July, 
 1812, and in which we captured two eagles 
 and between seven and eight thousand pri- 
 soners, and in which battle the gallant French 
 marshal lost an arm. Here I beg to refer the 
 reader, for a beautiful description of this far- 
 famed achievement, to Napier's *' History of the 
 Peninsular "War." Th^ Prince Regent of 
 England, justly proud of this victory, elevated 
 our great commander to the rank of a 
 marquis. 
 
 On the 23rd, we pursued the retreating 
 enemy, and our advanced guard of German 
 cavalry under Baron Bock came up with their 
 rearguard, composed of cavalry and infantry, 
 charged them in the most gallant manner, cut 
 through them, and captured three battalions of 
 infantry. 
 
 Nothing now appeared to dispute our advance 
 
 * Ten French generals and upwards of ten thousand 
 officers and men were said to have been killed and wounded ; 
 which includes all losses previous to this battle. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 SOME EEOOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 on Madrid, which capital we entered on the 
 12th of August. Our appearance was hailed 
 with joy and triumph by all ranks ; thousands 
 of the inhabitants, bearing flowers and laurel, 
 came forth to welcome us. As my regiment 
 was passing the principal street, in succession 
 with others, some ladies, handsomely dressed, 
 laid hold of our colours, to which they affixed 
 laurel, and actually embraced the bearers of 
 them with the greatest enthusiasm. 
 
 We remained in Madrid until the 1st of 
 September, and on the morning of the 7th, the 
 army passed the Douro and took possession 
 of Yalladolid, while the French army under 
 General Clausel retired on our approach. 
 
 On the morning of the 19th the army entered 
 the ancient city of Burgos, and the French 
 army fell back to Briviesca, leaving a garrison 
 of picked men, over two thousand strong, in 
 the castle of that town, under Greneral Dubieton, 
 an engineer officer of much distinction. 
 
 The castle of Burgos is situated on a height 
 above the town, and is extremely strong. On 
 the height was placed a battery of twelve heavy 
 cannon. It was nearly surrounded by three 
 lines of field works, the lower line embracing 
 a scarp wall at the base of the hill, very diffi- 
 cult of access. At intervals, between these 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 21 
 
 works were fleches, built of masonry, and armed 
 with, cannon. The whole was admirably con- 
 structed for defence, and amply supplied with 
 stores, ammunition, and provisions. 
 
 The Marquis of Wellington was determined, 
 if possible, to capture this place with the means 
 he had, which were very scanty indeed, but 
 time on the present occasion was of so much 
 importance, that his lordship was compelled 
 to attack this formidable castle at once, and 
 accordingly he invested it. 
 
 The 1st and 6th Divisions were ordered to 
 attack the place, while the main body of the 
 army advanced to the front, to hold the enemy 
 in check. For the siege there were present 
 only five Royal Engineer officers, the chief of 
 whom was Colonel Burgoyne,* with a few 
 military artificers of the Engineer Corps, and 
 some assistant- engineers from the Line, amongst 
 whom I was numbered. 
 
 The artillery consisted of three 18 -pounders, 
 and five 24-pounder howitzers of iron, and 
 those cannon not of the best order, having been 
 much used and knocked about, and the supply 
 of ammunition very deficient. 
 
 * Sir John Burgojne states, in a few lines to me of a 
 recent date, how wretchedly we were then off in everything 
 necessary for a siege. 
 
22 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Here it ought to be observed, that Burgos in 
 point of actual strength was not to be com- 
 pared to a regular fortification. Still its field- 
 works were so judiciously arranged for defence, 
 that in the present crisis it answered all the 
 purposes intended, and that was to impede 
 the progress of the British generah 
 
 On the hill of St. Michael overlooking some 
 of the works, was constructed a hornwork, 
 wliich the 42nd Highlanders, were directed to 
 attack. They did so most gallantly, but re- 
 mained fighting for more than an hour without 
 success — when luckily, the Honourable Major 
 Cox of the 79th, A^ath his detachment, broke 
 down the palisades shutting in the rear of the 
 work, and it was thus entered. On being 
 taken, it was found to contain six pieces 
 of cannon and the remains of its garrison — 
 some seventy men, out of a strong battalion. 
 Our loss was upwards of four hundred, including 
 Major Pierpoint, a very talented officer of the 
 general staff, killed. 
 
 Colonel Burgoyne directed a lodgment to 
 be made on the crest of the hill of St. Michael, 
 to cover the captured hornivork and keep down^ 
 if possible, the enemy's heavy fire from the 
 castle. The erection of this work he confided 
 to me, with a working party of two hundred of 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 23 
 
 the Grenadier Guards, and it was fortunate for 
 us, that the enemy could not depress their guns 
 sufficiently in the embrasures of the castle to 
 strike us, or our loss must have been most 
 serious. 
 
 We worked very hard all night, assisted 
 much with spades and pick-axes found in the 
 hornwork, and in the morning there appeared 
 before us pretty good cover ; but the ground 
 was rocky, and the earth difficult to raise, and 
 it was the hardest work we ever had. In the 
 meantime, a detachment of the Guards and 
 79th Highlanders attempted to escalade the 
 lower line, but failed with much loss, and 
 their most gallant leader, Major Lawrie, killed. 
 
 As the fire from our cannon did not make 
 much impression on the place, and were so 
 much injured that some of them could not be 
 used, it was determined to make our approaches 
 by mining, and the engineers with their as- 
 sistants had an arduous task to accomplish. 
 The first attempt failed : but in the second 
 mine we succeeded, and the 24th Regiment 
 gallantly captured the lower line on the 
 evening of the 4th of October. 
 
 During the night we formed our lodgment, 
 notwithstanding the heavy fire kept up on us, 
 and the live shells incessantly rolled down from 
 
24 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the glacis of the upper line. Then the 
 enemy made a most determined sortie, upset- 
 ting our gabions and in part driving us back ; 
 but we speedily rallied, and had a regular stand- 
 up fight, in some cases hand to hand. I felt 
 suddenly paralyzed and became unconscious, 
 imtil a hand pulled me out of some rubbish : 
 it was a sergeant of the 79th. A ball had struck 
 me on the left shoulder, passing out through 
 the blade-bone. 
 
 The kind sergeant carried me to my quarters, 
 refusing to take my watch as a present. On 
 afterwards making inquiry, I learned he was 
 killed, together with his gallant commanding 
 officer, the Honourable Major Cox. 
 
 Thus ended my humble part in this siege. 
 Our losses up to. this time must have been very 
 great.* Of the Royal Engineers, one experi- 
 enced officer, Captain Williams, was killed ; 
 Lieut. -Colonel Jones badly wounded, Lieutenant 
 • Reid wounded, leaving ttuo, Lieutenant Pitts and 
 Col. Burgoyne. Of the assistants, one — Captain 
 Kenny, 9th Regiment — was killed ; Lieutenant 
 du Maresque, 9th Regiment, severely wounded ; 
 Lieutenant Stewart, 61st Regiment, half his face 
 shot off. There were but three left for the siege. 
 
 * Two thousand men. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 25 
 
 Colonel Burgoyne, one of the two alluded to 
 as having hitherto escaped, was the wonder of 
 US all; he seemed to bear a charmed life, for 
 he was almost ever in the trenches, mines, or 
 lodgments.* The pain in my shoulder was very 
 great until suppuration took place, the anguish 
 then became less, and being able to sleep, I 
 gradually became better. My quarters were in 
 a large house, rather too close to the castle, 
 and had been used by the French as an hospital. 
 They did not fire at it, except they perceived 
 any one looking out on them from the back 
 windows. 
 
 The progress of the siege was so interesting 
 to me, that I remained here until our resources 
 had utterly failed, and the French having 
 collected a large army in our front, compelled 
 Lord Wellington to raise the siege and re- 
 treat. Having had a few days' notice of 
 this, and being just able to sit my horse, I 
 left on the 16th of October, and got on the 
 road to Salamanca, where our first supplies 
 were. , 
 
 My baggage, not much, was carried on 
 a mule, with a piece of boiled pork, some 
 biscuit, and a bottle of sour wine ; this was all 
 
 * The greatly dlstingiiislied General Sir John Burgoyne, 
 G.C.B., still serving his country. 
 
26 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I and my servant had to subsist on for many a 
 weary day. 
 
 By the time I reached Valladohd I was quite 
 done up, and with my poor servant, horse, and 
 mule, nearly starved. Three days of complete 
 rest somewhat restored me, and having laid in 
 a supply of grain for my horse and mule, and 
 of bread, eggs, and chocolate for myself and 
 servant, proceeded on my way, as the English 
 army in miserable plight, pursued by the French, 
 were approaching ; but I was exceedingly 
 thankful that I was able to bear up against the 
 fatigue I was obliged to undergo, and I got 
 on to Salamanca without much suffering. 
 Here I remained two days, and felt so much 
 better that I continued my journey to the 
 frontiers, crossed the Agueda, and got to 
 our general hospital and supplies. Here my 
 wound, which showed symptoms of inflam- 
 mation, was attended to, and I soon became 
 convalescent. 
 
 At intervals, a number of wounded ofl&cers 
 and men arrived, who gave a very sad account 
 of the retreat, and of the great losses we had 
 sustained in the last days of November and 
 the beginning of December. The weather had 
 become so inclement, that the army suffered 
 privations, apparently as bad as did the army 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 27 
 
 of the late Sir Jolin Moore, in its retreat to 
 Corunna, in 1808. 
 
 At last the English army arrived, crossed 
 the frontiers, and entered into cantonments, 
 having lost five thousand, wounded or disabled 
 men. The French army also halted and went 
 into winter quarters. So ended the eventful 
 year of 1812. 
 
28 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 1813—1815. 
 
 rpHE armies on both sides had suffered so 
 J- mucli, that neither appeared in the least in- 
 cHned to carry on offensive operations, so that 
 the spring of 1813 passed away in quiet. The 
 whole of this time, the Marquis of Wellington 
 was, as usual, indefatigable in his exertions to 
 restore the discipline of his army, which the 
 late disastrous retreat had greatly disorganized. 
 In the meantime he fortunately received power- 
 ful reinforcements from England, with tents 
 for the troops, which hitherto they had been 
 entirely without ; and many other equipages of 
 war, so that now he was better able to open a 
 campaign than on any former occasion. His 
 lordship had been to Cadiz, where the Spanish 
 Government were established, and was made 
 by them Commander-in-Chief of the Spanish 
 armies. 
 
 In the beginning of May all was ready for 
 our advance into Spain, and my feelings were 
 quite excited at the favourable chance now 
 before us of success, particularly as my wound 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 29 
 
 was quite healed, there only remaining a stiff- 
 ness in the joint of the shoulder, which pre- 
 vented me from using my left arm. 
 
 But alas ! a letter came to say, that the 
 2nd Battalion of the 30th, my regiment, was 
 so very much reduced in numbers from former 
 losses and late privations, that it was deter- 
 mined to send it to England. I had there- 
 fore nothing for it but to accompany it on 
 the march through Portugal on the return 
 home. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred on our march to 
 Lisbon ; we were by no means hurried, and were 
 glad to see that the inhabitants had for the 
 most part returned to their homes, and many 
 were busy rebuilding their towns, which had 
 been so recently ravaged and destroyed. The 
 terrible scenes of horror we had passed in our 
 advance were no longer visible, and the people 
 cheered us as we passed them, and blessed the 
 *' Grande Lorde," as they usually called the 
 Marquis of Wellington. 
 
 On our arrival at Lisbon we heard of the 
 decisive victory at Vittoria, and we noticed 
 some of our men grumbling, not without some 
 reason, at not having shared in that battle, as 
 they then might have come in for a share of 
 the enormous quantity of property they had 
 
30 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 lieard was found in and about Vittoria and the 
 battle-ground. 
 
 About the 1st of August we embarked for 
 England, and in three weeks arrived there 
 without accident. 
 
 After remaining a week at Portsmouth we 
 marched for Southampton, where we received 
 nearly four hundred men from different militia 
 regiments, which made us again an effective 
 battalion. Shortly after we embarked for the 
 island of Jersey, which we reached early in 
 September, and were quartered in Grouville 
 Barracks, on the sea- shore, — wooden buildings, 
 said to have been erected by the E-ussians in 
 former days. 
 
 In this healthy place we remained until 
 December, when quite suddenly came an order 
 for our battalion and the 81st Regiment to hold 
 ourselves in readiness to embark for a particular 
 service. The ships to convey us soon arrived 
 at the port of St. Holier from England, and 
 without any delay we embarked from that port, 
 and sailed for the coast of Holland with a fair 
 wind. 
 
 It may be remembered that in the first week 
 of January, 1814, there came on a frost of a 
 most severe kind. This we encountered when 
 oflP Dover, together with tempestuous weather 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 31 
 
 from the north, contrary to where we were 
 going, and we were obhged to anchor in the 
 Downs for several days, and had not our anchors 
 held we must have gone on shore. During this 
 time the frost was so intense that we were 
 always obliged to remain below, and the sailors 
 suffered so much that they could hardly manage 
 to guide the ships. The wind at last mode- 
 rated and became somewhat in our favour, when 
 we again sailed, but it was not until the beginning 
 of February that we made Helvoetsluys. 
 
 The troops were landed from ice-boats and 
 instantly marched off by detachments to Wil- 
 liamstadt, where accommodation was prepared 
 for them. Here we remained about a week, 
 and each officer and man was served out with a 
 warmblanket and two pairs of woollen stockings, 
 for we left Jersey in such haste that we had 
 not time to supply ourselves with those very 
 necessary articles in such weather, and on such 
 a service. 
 
 The cold was terrible, and the ice-boats that 
 brought us on shore had to be dragged by 
 Dutch sailors over nearly five miles of frozen 
 sea, and we greatly felt the severe chill and 
 cold, so different from the fine climate of the 
 Peninsula. 
 
 We marched to join the force of about six 
 
82 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 thousand men, under General Sir Tliomas 
 Graliam,* in alliance with the Prince of Orange, 
 who had been restored to his dignity by the 
 Dutch troops, on the French retiring from the 
 country in consequence of the reverses of the 
 Emperor Napoleon. The enemy had left strong 
 garrisons in Antwerp, Bergen-op-Zoom, and 
 other places, and it was those we were destined 
 to attack. 
 
 The British general occupied the village of 
 Putten, near the town of Merxem, which was 
 then occupied by the French as an advanced 
 post. On the road to Antwerp, round different 
 parts of our village, the engineers were at work 
 to make the post somewhat defensible by means 
 of trees, here in abundance, which they cut 
 down and formed into temporary breastworks, 
 to prevent any sudden surprise of the enemy. 
 This mode of defence was obliged to be re- 
 sorted to, as the earth was frozen down several 
 feet, so hard, that it was found impossible to 
 make use of it. 
 
 Some days after we joined, the 78th High- 
 landers were directed to take Merxem, t which 
 
 * Afterwards Lord Lynedoch. 
 
 t Colonel Macleod, their leader, was severely wounded, 
 ten men killed, and two lieutenants and twenty-eight men 
 wounded. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 33 
 
 they did in gallant style, driving tlie French 
 out and taking many prisoners. 
 
 This success gave us an opportunity to shell 
 Antwerp, which we did for many days, but 
 without much result, for our means were not 
 sufficient to follow it up, and we could not 
 obtain a fresh supply of ammunition in conse- 
 quence of the roads being blocked up with ice 
 and snow. The enemy, however, withdrew a 
 strong post they held on the Scheldt, Fort 
 Frederick Hendric, which was occupied by a 
 regiment from our force, relieved daily by 
 another. 
 
 It happened in the beginning of March that 
 the 30th Battalion were on duty in this fort, 
 when the French from Antwerp warped one 
 of their ships of the line down with the tide, 
 and opened a vigorous cannonade on the fort, 
 elevating their guns and some mortars they 
 had on board, and dropping in many shot and 
 shell over the dyke "before the place, causing us 
 a loss of our sergeant-major and five men killed, 
 and an officer and several men wounded. An 
 Artillery officer,* with only one 18-pounder and 
 one 13 -inch mortar, struck the French ship 
 frequently, and, it afterwards appeared, killed 
 
 * lieut. Parker, Royal Artillery. 
 D 
 
 L 
 
8^ SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and wounded some men by the bursting of a 
 shell, and the ship returned to Antwerp. 
 
 The General wrote to Admiral Berkeley, 
 informing him of this attack upon us by a ship 
 of war, and he immediately sent us a squadron 
 of armed boats from the mouth of the Scheldt, 
 where his fleet lay, under the command of 
 Captain Lord Nevill, of the Boadicea frigate ; 
 but the enemy made no more attacks upon u§ 
 in this way. 
 
 Having been made a permanent assistant in 
 the Royal Engineer department, I was attached 
 to that service for future operations, and em- 
 ployed in front of Fort Frederick, directing a 
 breastwork for howitzer fire, behind which was 
 a furnace, constructed for heating shot, so that 
 we should have given any ship that approached 
 us a warm reception. Captain Sir George 
 Haste, Royal Engineers, Lord Nevill and his 
 two lieutenants, with myself, formed a mess 
 in the fort, and were well supplied with pro- 
 visions by the country people. The sailors 
 received theirs from the fleet. 
 
 On the 8th of March, about seven in the 
 morning, our attention was drawn by the firing 
 of the front picket of the 81st, that regiment 
 being on duty in the fort at the time. It was 
 caused by some French skirmishers, who had 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 35 
 
 advanced on ours, from a body of French 
 troops marching towards us along the dyke. 
 We all instantly turned out, and the 81st formed 
 a column facing them, when the enemy halted 
 and gave us a couple of rounds from a light 
 gun ; we returned the compliment by an 18- 
 pounder, and they speedily retired. We had 
 no casualties, and it appeared to be only a re- 
 connoitring party of the enemy. On another 
 occasion, some boats on the Scheldt, from 
 Antwerp, approached us, when our tars in- 
 stantly made for them in their boats ; and, 
 although the enemy seemed to make desperate 
 exertions to escape, two were captured, wherein 
 were some sailors and a few soldiers. 
 
 Up to this period matters remained without 
 further operations of any kind, until the British 
 general formed the design of surprising Bergen 
 op Zoom, the strength of which place was well 
 known. About the middle of March the se- 
 verity of the weather ceased, and a thaw com- 
 menced. It was at this time that the General 
 made the attempt, and with nearly two-thirds 
 of his whole force, on a dark night, succeeded 
 in escalading the walls without much oppo- 
 sition, the water at the time running over the 
 ice in the ditches ; and we took possession of 
 seven bastions out of thirteen, and the water 
 
 d2 
 
36 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 port gate ; but no effort appeared to be made 
 to establisb a body of troops in the town, 
 wliich had been done on all former occasions 
 of our sieges in Spain. With the exception of 
 small parties of the enemy appearing and firing 
 upon ns, we remained in possession of what 
 we had got, and expected the garrison would 
 surrender in the morning. 
 
 But we found it quite the contrary. In 
 many parts about the works, close to us, were 
 houses of the town ; and as daylight appeared, 
 the enemy opened such a storm of fire upon us, 
 from loopholes and from the windows, that 
 half our officers, and a great number of our 
 men, fell in the course of a quarter of an hour. 
 Major- Generals Gore and Skerrett were killed, 
 and nearly all the commanding officers of regi- 
 ments ; and then great was the confusion, for 
 there appeared nobody to give orders as to 
 what was to be done. At this crisis no one 
 thought of turning the guns upon the houses 
 of the town. There they were, all loaded, and 
 their slow-matches in readiness. In a short 
 time large bodies of French troops opened fire 
 upon us, calling upon us to surrender, which 
 many of our men did, throwing down their 
 arms. All was lost ; and some of us sprang 
 over the parapets, or through the embrasures. 
 
 / 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 37 
 
 into the ditches, now with several feet of water 
 on the ice. Some escaped this way; others 
 were shot down in the attempt ; but I was 
 fortunate, and got over with only a few bruises. 
 
 Thus ended this most daring attempt to 
 take one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. 
 Two thousand officers and men were taken 
 prisoners, and the commanding general applied 
 for and received from the Prince of Orange a 
 division of Dutch troops to supply his losses ; 
 but from this time until April nothing more 
 was done, and, as peace was proclaimed after 
 the Duke's glorious victory at Toulouse, the 
 prisoners taken in Bergen op Zoom were 
 released, and subsequently joined us ; and the 
 French garrisons marched off with the honours 
 of war to their own country. 
 
 Then Sir Thomas Graham, at the head of 
 his forces, with the Prince of Orange, made 
 their triumphal entry into Antwerp and Brus- 
 sels, and were received by the people with 
 enthusiasm. And certainly the inhabitants 
 were always very kind to us. My regiment, 
 with many others, were quartered in Antwerp 
 for many months, and about an equal number 
 of our force were in Brussels ; both divisions 
 of the army, the staff, &c., resting from their 
 labours. 
 
38 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Brussels was particularly gay, constant 
 dinner parties going on, and soirees and 
 dancing every evening at the public rooms, 
 and also at tlie houses of the nobility ; and at 
 these parties the Prince of Orange and his 
 suite were nearly always to be seen. 
 
 Many noble English families began to arrive, 
 and the blooming faces of the ladies, and their 
 bright eyes, were most charming. 
 
 Thus passed the rest of the year of 1814. 
 'No more war's alarms awakened us from our 
 dream of happiness. Europe was not yet in a 
 settled state, and the French army was particu- 
 larly dissatisfied at the new order of things ; so 
 it was thought prudent to keep the force here, 
 in readiness for any outbreak that might occur. 
 It was at this time that we had war with 
 America, and twelve thousand men, and the best 
 regiments of the Great Duke's splendid army, 
 were sent there. Well might the Duke observe, 
 at the breaking up of this fine army, that with 
 it he could go anywhere, and achieve any- 
 thing. 
 
 In February, 1815, some ofl&cers of the 
 Royal Engineers were sent to the frontiers, in 
 order to reconnoitre the positions on the 
 banks of the Sambre and Meuse, take plans 
 and sketches of those rivers, and make reports 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 39 
 
 of the same to head-quarters. At this time 
 the whole of the Netherlands was formed into 
 one kingdom, under the Prince of Orange. 
 Namur and Charleroi were the places the 
 Engineer officers resided in, and on application 
 I was appointed to join them there. We made 
 short excursions into France, where we were 
 generally well received, and passed our time 
 very agreeably, occupied with our duties. 
 
 It began to be rumoured that the army in 
 Belgium was soon to return home, when, in 
 March, news came that astonished us not a 
 little. It was, that the Emperor Napoleon had 
 left Elba, and had returned to the Imperial 
 throne of France ; that he had arrived in Paris 
 without firing a shot, and that Louis XYIII. 
 had fled, and was on his way to England. 
 
 It was now war to the uttermost, and we 
 began to repair the fortresses, not forgetting 
 Namur and Charleroi. Those places were 
 occupied by a Prussian corps in May, and other 
 bodies of their troops daily arrived, resting on 
 the frontiers. 
 
 We had patrols between us and head- quarters, 
 from the 1st Hussars of the King's German 
 Legion, almost daily, and were informed that 
 all the disposable troops in England had been 
 sent out, and with them our great chief, the 
 
40 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Duke of "Wellington, to take command, of tlie 
 army. 
 
 All was quiet on the frontiers. Occasionally 
 we heard that great preparations were going 
 on in the interior of France to invade us, and 
 that Napoleon was collecting his veterans for 
 that purpose. The Duke of WelHngton was 
 collecting his army, consisting of British, 
 Hanoverian, Brunswick, Belgian, and Dutch 
 troops ; but the fine regiments of his late army, 
 still in America, were sadly missed by him. 
 
 The Prussians had gradually increased on 
 the frontiers, and by the 10th of June most 
 of their army, under Marshal Blucher, were 
 cantoned around us. 
 
 About this time a despatch had arrived from 
 the Duke's head-quarters to Major Hoste, our 
 commanding officer, to say that the Duke 
 expected the enemy would soon advance and 
 attack the Prussian position at Charleroi, and 
 directing us to remain in observation to the 
 last moment. 
 
 Here I beg to remark, that some years after 
 the remarkable events of those times had 
 passed away, I heard that a rumour was in 
 circulation that the Duke of Wellington, who 
 had supped with the Duke of Eichmond in 
 Brussels on the evening of tlie 15th of June, 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT. -COLOXEL NEVILL. 41 
 
 was surprised by the advance of tlie French 
 army. The absurdity of this report must be 
 apparent. His Grace knew all that was going 
 forward. After supper, in Brussels, he mounted 
 his horse and departed to the advance of his 
 army at Quatre Bras, and by early morning 
 was there directing his troops to resist the 
 serious attack of Marshal Ney. 
 
 On the 14th of June some French cavalry 
 were seen reconnoitring the Prussian outposts, 
 and on the 15th the Prussians were driven 
 back, crossed the Sambre and Mouse, and 
 occupied Charleroi in force. The French ad- 
 vanced, also crossed those rivers, and skir- 
 mished with the Prussians. About 11 a.m. 
 the enemy came on in force, and drove 
 back the Prussians through Charleroi. The 
 Engineer officers were on some high ground, 
 watching the advance of the enemy ; they had 
 sent their baggage to the rear on the 14th, 
 and only retained their horses bridle in hand. 
 Some French Chasseurs had got to our rear, 
 and it was now quite time to be off. We were 
 well mounted, and galloped past them within 
 shot. They called upon us to halt, but we 
 had something else to think of, so heeded them 
 not. They then fired at us, but we were 
 soon out of sight, along with a patrol of the 
 
42 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 1st Hussars, K. Gr. Legion, who directed us^to 
 a road to the extreme right of the British 
 army, on our way to Halle. 
 
 We rode on all day, stopping at a farmhouse 
 at nightfall. Here we got some bacon and 
 eggs, and forage for our horses. At early 
 dawn we were in saddle again, and soon 
 reached our destination, at Halle, to a few miles 
 in rear of which place the army had retreated 
 on the 17th of June, and where was fought, on 
 the 18th, the great battle of the war. 
 
 At Halle were our reserves of field equip- 
 ment, ammunition, heavy cannon for sieges, 
 and also a strong division of troops, consisting 
 of four British regiments and a large force of 
 Hanoverians, all under the command of Sir 
 Charles Oolville. We quite distinctly heard 
 the cannon of the fight at Quatre Bras, 
 and of course were most anxious as to the 
 result. 
 
 Having received my billet, seen to my horse, 
 and arranged matters, I had now leisure to 
 think of my corps, the 2nd Battalion of the 
 30th Eegiment, to which I was much attached. 
 We were like brothers, so friendly did we feel 
 towards each other, and much I wished to be 
 with them. 
 
 Nearly the whole night I was thinking of 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 43 
 
 this, and towards morning I determined 
 to resign my appointment, and join tliem. 
 Having settled this matter, I fell asleep, and 
 did not awake until 11 a.m. of the 17th, and 
 then waited on our brigade-major, Captain 
 Oldfield, who dissuaded me from resigning, 
 adding that we should have plenty to do by- 
 and-by. Our chief, Colonel Carmichael Smyth, 
 arrived in the evening, and told us all the 
 news regarding the battle gf Quatre Bras ; and 
 that the Duke, with his whole army, had 
 retreated to his position in front of the village 
 of Waterloo, where he would await and give 
 the enemy battle. 
 
 The next day, the 18th, I duly gave over my 
 reports, sketches, &c., to the brigade-major, 
 and consigned my horse and baggage to the 
 care of a friend, mounted a pony I had just 
 bought, and proceeded alone to the field of 
 battle. 
 
 As I had not the least idea where my regiment 
 was, the thought occurred to me to make for 
 the right of the army, and thence along its line 
 until I fell in with my corps ; but little did I 
 think of the difficulty of doing this, amidst 
 fire, smoke, death, and the confusion of so 
 great a battle. I persevered, however; but it 
 was not until late in the day that I got to the 
 
44 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 right of the army, and where I received no 
 information. 
 
 As I struggled along as well as I could, 
 amidst artillery, cavalry, and cannon-balls flying 
 past me in abundance, I was determined to join 
 any regiment I could. At this moment a can- 
 non-shot struck my pony, knocking us both 
 over, and killing him instantly. 
 
 I now made my way to the front line, where 
 I fell in with the 95th Eifles (afterwards the 
 Eifle Brigade). Here I met with a kind 
 friend,* Captain Logan ; but every one here 
 was too busy to mind anybody, until, during 
 on^ of the lulls in the French cannonade, a 
 large column of the Imperial Guard approached 
 our front. We were ready for them; and it 
 was about this time that another column of 
 the same Guard was seen approaching us on 
 the left. 
 
 At this moment a strong regiment of ours 
 advanced from the front and met this left 
 column in the most undaunted manner, pre- 
 serving a beautiful line, shoulder to shoulder — 
 not firing a shot until close to them ; then, after 
 one most effective volley, they charged and 
 
 * Many years after, tlie above gallant officer became 
 colonel and Aide-de-Camp to the Queen, and was my com- 
 manding officer in the 63rd Regiment. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 45 
 
 defeated the enemy. It was done by tlie 
 glorious 52nd Eegiment of Light Infantry ; 
 but where were their late gallant comrades of 
 the Peninsular War, the 43rd Light Infantry ? 
 Alas ! not here, but on their return from 
 America. 
 
 The column coming on in front of our 
 Guards and the 95th were charged by those 
 regiments in the most gallant manner, and 
 defeated ; as were also other columns of the 
 Imperial Guard which had attacked the right 
 centre of our army. 
 
 It was now getting dark. The army had 
 advanced to the French position, who had 
 given way on all points ; and there we rested 
 for that night, as the Prussian army, which 
 had at last appeared in great force, followed 
 the retreating French during the night, not 
 giving them a moment's rest. Late in the 
 morning of the 19th we heard of the result 
 of this great battle, and the army advanced 
 towards France without opposition. 
 
 In due course I made out the 30th, my 
 regiment ; but, on joining them, what a wreck 
 did I see ! — the field ofiicers all struck down, 
 and Major Chambers killed. Of the captains, 
 all were killed or wounded save one, who then 
 commanded the regiment — Captain Howard; 
 
46 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 in short, six officers were killed on the spot, 
 sixteen officers wounded, and half the battalion 
 Jiors de combat. The other regiments of the 
 brigade they served in, which consisted of the 
 73rd, 33rd, and 69th Regiments, suffered at 
 least a similar loss. This brigade was on the 
 right-centre front in the battle, under Sir Colin 
 Halket, who was severely wounded. I was 
 informed that the brigade was frequently 
 charged by the Cuirassiers of the Imperial 
 Guard, and that some of their wounded horses 
 and riders rolled headlong into the squares. 
 This brigade highly distinguished itself. 
 
 On we went to Paris, and on the 28th and 
 29th expected another battle. The French 
 army attacked the Prussians at Issy and Au- 
 bervillores, and drove them back. The Duke 
 soon had his army in position ; but the French 
 retired into Paris, and afterwards behind the 
 Loire. On the 3rd of July the army entered 
 Paris, and some time afterwards the Emperor 
 Fapoleon surrendered himself to Sir Thomas 
 Usher, captain of the Undaunted frigate. And 
 thus permanently ended this long and great 
 war, and Louis XVIII. was again placed upon 
 his throne. 
 
 The 30th, with many other British regiments, 
 were bivouacked in the Bois de Boulogne ; 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 47 
 
 and as we had plenty of wood, we made some 
 comfortable little huts, receiving our rations 
 regularly, and paying for everything else we 
 wanted. Not so the Prussians ; for everything 
 they had was paid by contributions on the 
 country. Soon arrived a corps of Austrians 
 and a division of Russians, including a body 
 of Prince Platoff's Cossacks of the Don. The 
 uniforms of those men, fine in themselves, were 
 superb ; their ofiicers particularly, wearing in 
 their four-cornered caps flowing black plumes. 
 
 In August there were in Paris two emperors 
 and four kings, and the Duke of Wellington 
 passed the army in review before them, followed 
 by the Prussians — a most imposing sight. The 
 allied sovereigns then begged the Duke to show 
 them a representation of the events during the 
 battle of Salamanca, which he did. Sir John 
 Elly commanding the cavalry which in the real 
 battle was led on so brilliantly by General Le 
 Marchant, who was killed. 
 
 In this and other duties the army passed the 
 year 1815, when an order fi:*om England arrived 
 to form our contingent of 30,000 men out of 
 the 1st battalions of regiments, and send the 
 2nd battalions home for reduction. 
 
 We marched from Paris to Calais in De- 
 Jm cember, 1815 ; thence sailed to England, and 
 
48 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 shortly after were sent to Ireland. On visiting 
 my father, in Dublin, such was the respect 
 in which he was held there, that the Lord 
 Mayor and Corporation presented me with the 
 freedom of that city, in a handsome box. 
 In the mean time the 2nd Battalion was dis- 
 banded. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 49 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 1816—1831. 
 
 0]^ disbanding tlie 2nd Battalion of tlie 30tli 
 Regiment, there was retained under Colonel 
 Hamilton a large detachment of officers and 
 men, most of them wearing a medal which 
 they had so gallantly won in the last extra- 
 ordinary battle.* These men were to proceed 
 to India, to join the 1st Battalion, in the 
 spring of 1817. We landed at Madras, and 
 in June proceeded to the regiment, then 
 on the march to Hydrabad, in the Nizam's 
 dominions. On arrival there, the left wing 
 was sent forward, to be employed in the siege 
 of Asseerghur, a strong fortress in possession 
 of the Mahrattas, then at war with us. Pre- 
 vious to this siege, the battle of Maheidpoor 
 was fought and gained, in which I got leave 
 to join the commander-in-chief. Sir Thomas 
 
 * And here I may say that our glorious enemy of that 
 day, now happily our friends, showed us the road to resist 
 them, until the last man fell. Evening was closing when 
 the advance of our allies in force, 20,000 fresh men, de- 
 cided the victory in our favour. 
 
 E 
 
50 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Hislop, as a volunteer. On joining tlie Light 
 Company of the 30th, I was present with it 
 and other troops, in the storm of the Pettah of 
 Asseerghur, and at nightfall was intrusted 
 with the command of the advanced picket of 
 forty men. With it I repulsed, at 2 in the 
 morning, a sortie of at least two hundred 
 Arabs from the upper fort of Asseerghur, and 
 was thanked on the spot by our brigadier.* 
 But the praise I received from my gallant 
 friend and brother officer Macready was the 
 most gratifying. 
 
 This important fortress at length yielded to 
 our attacks, but not before we lost our excellent 
 brigadier, poor Colonel Frazer, of the 1st Eoyal 
 Eegiment, and between three and four hundred 
 officers and men. Thus ended the great Mah- 
 ratta war, in 1817. The left wing of my 
 regiment returned to Hydrabad, where we 
 unfortunately lost a great number of men by 
 Asiatic cholera — a scourge at that time only 
 recently known. 
 
 Hydrabad was then a very desirable station. 
 We had a force of some four or five thousand 
 men, to whom belonged a number of pleasing 
 
 * Through some mistake, the important post I defended 
 was neglected. The Arabs took advantage of it, sallied 
 out, and killed and wounded many officers and men. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL'I^EVILL. 51 
 
 women,* who, in their soirees to the officers of 
 the force, were engaging and kind to all. 
 Then, at the official Eesidency, we had pre- 
 siding the late Lord Metcalfe, — at that time 
 Sir Charles, — than whom a more hospitable, 
 worthy, and delightful person did not exist in 
 India. 
 
 At this station we passed a few happy years. 
 There was no war during the time of any con- 
 sequence, save some outbreaks of marauders, 
 who prowled about the high roads between 
 Hydrabad and Nagpoor — the latter the prin- 
 cipal town of the Mysore country, lately cap- 
 tured by us ; and in consequence of the 
 mischief to trade occasioned by the plundering 
 parties above mentioned, detachments of native 
 troops — one of which, consisting of a hun- 
 dred Irregular Horse, was entrusted to me — 
 were stationed about their haunts. 
 
 I had the good fortune to fall in with some 
 five hundred Bheels (or plunderers), loaded 
 with booty and stolen cattle from the neigh- 
 bouring villages, when I instantly attacked 
 them. They for the most part fled, and we 
 captured nearly all the property, including the 
 cattle, which was afterwards restored to the 
 right owners ; we also took twenty prisoners. 
 
 * Particularly Lady Kumbold. 
 E 2 
 
52 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Some of the robbers stood well, and caused 
 im a loss of two borsemen killed, and some 
 men and borses wounded. On my report 
 of this affair being receired at bead quarters 
 witb tbe prisoners, I was tbanked by Sir 
 Charles Metcalfe, and, through him, by his 
 Highness the Nizam. 
 
 I have little more to say during our stay in 
 his dominions. Sporting parties we bad fre- 
 quently, and hog-hunting sometimes. On one 
 occasion a formidable wild boar, after a hard 
 run, attacked three of us — wounded one officer 
 in the leg, and severely injured my horse ; but 
 was at last killed between us. He was capital 
 eating. 
 
 On being relieved by the 46th Eegiment, we 
 commenced our march to the Presidency of 
 Madras in September, 1825, and encountered 
 the monsoon on the fourth day's march. On 
 the morning of the 27th, about 1 a.m., we had 
 a terrific thunder-storm, accompanied by light- 
 ning and torrents of rain. Some arms were 
 destroyed, and a few of the men slightly in- 
 jured. My tent was wholly destroyed, together 
 with all its contents, including my sword, 
 which was melted. I happened to be fast 
 asleep during the storm, but was rather rudely 
 awakened by the shock, when I found myself 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 53 
 
 on tlie ground, wliolly uninjured. It was a 
 most providential escape.* 
 
 The 30th Eegiment arrived at Madras with- 
 out further aiccident, and on their being ordered 
 home, I exchanged into the 13th Light Dra- 
 goons, and joined them in India in 18 26. In 
 this fine -and gallant regiment I was some 
 years ; but as I was recommended for pro- 
 motion to infantry, I was allowed again to 
 exchange into the 26th -Cameronian Regiment, 
 and proceeded to join them, stationed in the 
 Upper Provinces of Bengal, when I was at- 
 tacked w^th so severe an illness in April, 1831, 
 that I was directed by a medical board to 
 proceed to Europe without loss of time, to 
 save life, as medicine taken in India was of 
 little avail. 
 
 The British vessels having at this time all 
 left Calcutta, I embarked on board a good 
 French ship, where I was most kindly received 
 by the ofl&cers. We sailed on the th, and 
 what with the sea air and kind treatment I 
 received, I r^^pidly recovered my strength. But 
 it appeared fated that we should have a very 
 long and disastrous voyage, which I will try to 
 relate. 
 
 * Major Palrymple, commanding the regiment, reported 
 itlie matter to head-quarters. 
 
54 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 The sliip was called the Bengalie, under 
 Captain Feiulette. The passengers, beside my- 
 self, were a captain, formerly of the Imperial 
 Guard; the widow of a major in the Indian 
 service, going home sick ; and a young officer 
 of the same service. The lady was accom- 
 panied by a very ugly pug dog, a huge tom cat, 
 and a cockatoo, which appeared on bad terms 
 with each other. 
 
 Before we arrived in the Bay of Bengal, we 
 were driven by a sudden squall upon a bank 
 near the centre of the Ganges, called the 
 St. Mary's, and it required all the skill of the 
 master pilot to get us off. In those times of 
 sailing vessels the navigation of the coast of 
 Calcutta was most difficult,* and required very 
 experienced men as pilots. The Government 
 had instituted a regular corps of them, with 
 different grades, according to their standing 
 and experience. On the 14th the Bay of 
 Bengal lay before us. 
 
 Having seen a good deal of India, I left it 
 with regret. To a man without much money, 
 and of an independent mind, it is, from the 
 liberal pay allowed, far to be preferred to 
 home service. To the sportsman and the 
 
 * The shifting sands in the Hoogley and off the coast 
 render sailing in those parts very dangerous. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 00 
 
 man fond of Arab horses, it is everything to he 
 desired. The health, however, is sure to suffer 
 from a long 'residence, which certainly is a 
 drawback upon its advantages. To the 20th 
 we had cool, favourable weather. We amused 
 ourselves fishing ; and on one occasion a large 
 flight of flying fish got up close to the ship, 
 from which I shot several, lowered a boat, and 
 picked up five. They are good eating. Those 
 poor fish have many enemies, not only in their 
 own element, but outside : when they fly, to 
 get out of the way of large fish from below, 
 they are pounced upon by the feathered tribes 
 from above, who follow shoals of large fish for 
 the purpose. 
 
 We had a serious row between the cat and 
 cockatoo, brought to a close by the former 
 springing at the latter, and striking him with 
 his claws through the cage ; but he was soon 
 rescued, and not much hurt. The screams of 
 the widow for her pet were awful. I was not 
 sorry for the mishap to the cockatoo, as he was 
 now confined to his cage. Before this he was 
 often let out, and perched upon some of the 
 company. My head happened to be a great 
 favourite of his, nor could he be removed 
 without some difficulty. The Captain of Cui- 
 rassiers and I got on very well together : he 
 
56 SOME. EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 had seen a great deal of service under the great 
 Napoleon, was a man of the world, and free 
 of its prejudices. Whenever he appeared to 
 pray, he pressed his Legion of Honour to his 
 lips. The French certainly beat us in good 
 humour and fun. We often had a dance, 
 in which all joined. We sang and played 
 occasionally, and passed our time very happily. 
 
 I used to perch myself in the main-top, for 
 the purpose of either reading or contempla- 
 ting the glorious beauties of a tropical sky, 
 ever changing, and forming groups of varied 
 scenery lovely to beho-ld. Up to this period* 
 the latter end af April, our time passed away 
 well enough ; but now a succession of calms 
 and squalls, accompanied by torrents of rain, 
 were of every-day occurrence, and rendered our 
 voyage truly uncomfortable. 
 
 We at length got near the line, and there 
 were becalmed from the 6th of May to the- 
 19th of June. The ship lay like a. log on the- 
 water, the tropical sun, bearing down upon 
 us, destroying the little comfort we had, and 
 occasioning all to feel more or less ill. One 
 terrible hot evening our notice was attracted 
 by a dark mass rising very slowly under and 
 about the ship, which rather alarmed us. It 
 was the opinion of the captain and seameci 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 67 
 
 tliat it was a mass of deep-sea marine matter, 
 separated from below, in consequence of some 
 disturbance there, and accelerated in coming 
 up by the long calm and great lieat. As it 
 approached nearer, we could see many luminous 
 bodies on it, and it was supposed that this 
 appearance was caused by animal matter. The 
 French Captain of Cuirassiers and I thought 
 that firing the guns on board might cause 
 some effect. We did so, and after some rounds 
 had been fired, the whole mass gradually dis- 
 appeared, to our great relief. It may not have 
 been the firing that caused the object of our 
 solicitude to sink, but certainly it began to do 
 so after the first discharge. 
 
 That there are many marine substances at 
 the bottom of the deep sea we all know, and 
 there may be living creatures there that do not 
 appear except upon some extraordinary occa- 
 sion ; for instance, the appearance at mid-day 
 of what was supposed to be the sea serpent, as 
 seen from the deck of the Dcedalus sloop of war 
 by Captain Macquay and several of his sea- 
 men, on their passage, I think, from America, 
 the description of which was given by the 
 captain in his report to the Admiralty. 
 
 As I said before, we all got on very well up 
 to the continued calm and intense heat of the 
 
58 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 equator ; then some disagreement showed 
 itself : the widow was often in a rage at those 
 on board not being more civil to her very- 
 troublesome favourites ; the pug dog became 
 vicious and bit at people, and at last dis- 
 appeared ; and I have little doubt he was 
 picked up, overboard, by some lucky shark, 
 as there were many of those voracious brutes 
 ever about the ship — we caught one twelve feet 
 long, which, after lying bound on deck for more 
 than an hour, snapped at the hand of the man 
 who was cutting him up, lacerating it terribly. 
 
 The most disagreeable man among us was 
 the ensign. He was constantly talking about 
 what he did not understand, and ever drawing 
 comparisons on the fighting qualities of the 
 French and English, and always in favour of 
 the latter — a dangerous subject, which at last 
 led to a challenge from the Cuirassier officer. 
 The ensign did not seem to like fighting with 
 swords, so I got him to apologize for his 
 rudeness to the French officer. We all as 
 much as possible avoided him afterwards. 
 
 We sometimes caught dolphins. The beauty 
 of those fish in water is well known. The cook 
 on board was a capital hand, and made good 
 soup and stews from anything ; therefore fresh 
 fish was always very acceptable. A fish stew 
 
LIFE OF IJEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 59 
 
 one day was brought to table, of which I ate 
 heartily : I afterwards heard it was the tail of 
 a young shark. 
 
 On the 10th of July the weather at last 
 changed, and, with a strong fair breeze, we 
 continued our voyage, rejoicing, up to the 26th. 
 Then came on a heavy gale, which lasted more 
 or less for two days. The ship leaked a good 
 deal, from the influence of the sun upon her 
 sides, which caused all of us, when possible, to 
 be at the pumps. 
 
 On the 29th the Mauritius was in sight, to 
 our inexpressible delight, and a pilot-boat 
 sailing towards us. The pilot at last got on 
 board, the sea very high, and many dangerous 
 reefs above and below water. We anchored in 
 Port St. Maurice on the 20th, having three- 
 and-a-half feet water in the hold. Here, then, 
 we were sure to remain some time, repairing 
 the ship ; and we had to look after our goods 
 and chattels, somewhat knocked about during 
 the gale. To the great grief of the poor 
 widow, her irritable cat was found crushed to 
 death behind a large sea-chest. I had always 
 a dislike to this animal, from his nastiness in 
 my cabin whenever he had an opportunity. 
 The widow lady left us ; also the ensign, whose 
 loss we were not sorry for. The lid had 
 
60 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 broken off one of the lady's trunks, exposing its 
 valuable contents of wigs and love-locks sadly 
 tumbled about. The French officer and I took 
 up our abode in the Hotel de France. Any one 
 who has ■ experienced hardship can judge how 
 thankful we were, and how comfortable we felt, 
 in a good room and a nice dinner before us. 
 I was determined to make a tour of this island 
 and visit its many beauties, and called upon 
 the governor, Sir C. Colville, an old friend, 
 who invited me to his chateau at Red way, 
 seven miles in the interior, to pass some days 
 there. 
 
 The town of St. Maurice, and the country 
 about it, are something like a small kingdom, 
 or principality, in themselves, so handsome and 
 prettily laid out is the town, built principally 
 by the French, from whom we took it in 1810. 
 In the back- ground, a few miles from it, the 
 soil is covered with rich vegetation, and then 
 appears mountain scenery running up quite in 
 alpine beauty, which has a very pleasing effect 
 upon the eye of the beholder. The inhabitants, 
 for the most part French, or their descendants, 
 are a very hospitable and pleasing people. 
 
 Set off on the 29th of July to the Governor's, 
 where I received a hearty welcome from Lady 
 Colville. We had a large dinner party, where 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 61 
 
 wit and beauty reigned triumphant. Next day- 
 went off with a gay party to visit the waterfall 
 of Pampelmoss. "We soon got in sight of the 
 fall, some one hundred and fifty feet in height, 
 and fifty in breadth, descending from a high hill, 
 from whence a stream sparkled until it reached 
 the descent, where it fell, and disappeared in the 
 woods below. It was a charming view. Two 
 lieutenants of the Undaunted frigate (in the 
 roads), Sir Peter Parker andtheHon.W.Keppel, 
 joined our dinner party to-day, and invited all 
 present to a grand ball on board on the 17th, 
 which passed off with a great deal of dancing 
 and music, and closed with a supper, at which 
 good-nature and kindness prevailed, as it 
 always does on board our men-of-war. 
 
 In my tour through the island I was weU 
 treated by the planters with whom I stopped. 
 They principally grow sugar-cane. Their yield 
 is most excellent and abundant, but the country 
 is sometimes visited by violent hurricanes, 
 which often destroy the crops. This island has 
 evidently been produced by some eruption of 
 nature, as also the neighbouring island of 
 Bourbon, on which is a small crater, which 
 sometimes emits smoke. The Government 
 roads are very good, and the revenue yields 
 a surplus after paying all interior expenses. 
 
62 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Painted partridges are in tke island, and there 
 are still some wild hogs, brought here by the 
 first settlers, and a few deer on the hills. On 
 returning to St. Maurice, I was in time for 
 the races on the Champ-de-Mars. There were 
 some good runs, but the pony and donkey races 
 were more relished by the spectators, par- 
 ticularly from the mistakes and frohcs of our 
 friend Neddy. *. 
 
 On the 16th August re-embarked on board 
 the French ship, which had repaired damages, 
 and proceeded to the island of Bourbon with a 
 few passengers for that place. Amongst them 
 was a French lady, I think from the old 
 noblesse of Normandy; and a more beautiful 
 woman I never saw. There was evidently 
 something the matter : she spoke only of her 
 meals and cabin arrangements, regarding no- 
 body or anything else. 
 
 On the third day the island was in view ; 
 it is about a hundred and ten miles from 
 Mauritius. On the morrow anchored off it, 
 and landed our passengers. Bourbon rises 
 high from the sea at all points, and in rough 
 weather it is difficult to land without getting a 
 thorough wetting. It forms a sort of parabola 
 of rocks, in many parts seemingly inaccessible. 
 In the only open roadstead before you, in a 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 63' 
 
 mountain gorge, is the principal town of 
 St. Denis. There is, when the tide is in, a 
 heavy surf beating against the rocky shore. It 
 is a French settlement, and the governor was 
 General Clausel, a distinguished officer under 
 Napoleon I. 
 
 The streets of St. Denis are well laid out, 
 and there is a beautiful botanical garden out- 
 side the town, growing most of the fruits of 
 Europe and of India. In the town is a good 
 and cheap table d'hote, and numerous shops, 
 where one can buy either Paris or Indian 
 goods. 
 
 As the captain of the ship intended to take 
 in provisions and vegetables here, at half the 
 charge he would have had to pay at our colony, 
 we were told that the vessel would not sail for 
 two days. The French officer and I proposed 
 to examine the interior of the country. Its 
 extent is larger than the Mauritius — that is, 
 some forty or fifty miles in diameter ; but the 
 rocky nature of its coast, &c., renders some 
 parts destitute of cultivation. 
 
 We started on our excursion on the 19th, 
 and made ten miles, on good roads. Good 
 shooting was found at partridges, flocks of 
 wild pigeons, and some guinea-fowl. We saw 
 several hogs, of a small species, quite black, 
 
64 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and very wild. I shot some beautiful speci- 
 mens of small parrots, or love-birds : they 
 are here in large flocks. We were well treated 
 at a planter's house, but much disturbed during 
 the night by cockroaches running over us. 
 We returned with a good bag of game, which 
 was very acceptable on board : these, with 
 fresh meat, and some fine rock cod, made us 
 a capital dinner. 
 
 We sailed on the morning of the 21st for 
 the African coast, and there passed close to us 
 a very suspicious, rakish-looking schooner, with 
 a large pivot gun at her bows, and some fine 
 but desperate-looking fellows peering at us. 
 We made her out to be the same vessel we had 
 seen ofi" the Line, and heard at St. Denis that 
 it was supposed she was consort to the pirate 
 vessel of " De Soto," captured by one of our 
 cruisers last year, having previously taken the 
 passenger and merchant ship The Morning Star, 
 recently from Calcutta, and with passengers, 
 both male and female, on board ; also some 
 few invalid soldiers, without arms. This ship 
 they sunk, with most of the crew, outraging 
 the women on board to a fearful extent, and 
 plundering the unfortunate vessel of all she 
 possessed. '* De Soto" and his crew met their 
 deserved fate at Jamaica afterwards. . . 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 65 
 
 We had two passengers from St. Denis on 
 board, for Europe, — one a very tall, one-eyed 
 man, who ate enormously and said Httle ; the 
 other a very big-headed, good-natured, farmer- 
 like man, who could talk from morning till 
 night of nothing but cultivating sugar-canes. 
 The tall man used to amuse himself catching 
 the pretty Pintado birds, with hook and line; 
 and as he dragged them in, used to laugh 
 heartily at the screaming noise they made. 
 These he used to cook and eat, himself, for 
 breakfast, though they are of very rank, oily 
 flavour ; but nothing came amiss to him, pro- 
 vided he had but enough. 
 
 The wind generally was tolerably fair until 
 the 24th of August. We were running down 
 the African coast pretty well, and hoped our 
 ill-luck had terminated ; but, alas ! no. We 
 were between two and three hundred miles from 
 the Cape of Good Hope, and a few fine days 
 would have brought us in; but on the 11th 
 September it blew a gale right in our teeth, 
 and we had to take in every stitch of sail. 
 This foul wind and weather continued almost 
 unremittingly until the 20th ; and had not the 
 hull of the ship been good, we must have 
 foundered. As it was, we lost our foremast ; 
 our mizenmast split in two pieces, from the 
 
66 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 top; bulwarks gone, boats gone; in fact, when 
 we were boarded by tbe pilot off Simons Town, 
 we were a mere wreck, with four feet of water 
 in the hold. 
 
 The men behaved wonderfully well the whole 
 time through this long-continued bad weather ; 
 nor was it until our wine, spirits, and pro- 
 visions failed that they showed discontent : 
 then, indeed, a serious emeute^ appeared likely 
 to take place, the men thinking their officers 
 were deceiving them. However, as has been 
 often said, when things are at the worst they 
 are sure to be better : the fair wind came at 
 last, and in a most wretched plight we reached 
 Simons Town, Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 As I have before said, those who have en- 
 countered hardships at sea in the sailing-vessels 
 of other days can readily conceive what a 
 " north-wester " is, of long continuance, off 
 the African coast, particularly off Cape Le 
 Guilles. There, in a gale, the rolling seas are 
 a mile long ; when down you go in the trough 
 of the sea, which at times makes a sweep 
 over the deck, carrying everything away, and 
 
 * I joined with the officers and well-disposed men. 
 There was great insubordination, but it passed oflf so well, 
 and all on board behaved so kind to me, that I do not wish 
 to relate the particulars of it. 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 67 
 
 deluging tlie vessel with water. I was most 
 thankful to Providence that I was enabled to 
 work day and night with the men, in good 
 health, and free from injury. All the officers 
 and most of the crew were either knocked up 
 with work and hardship, or were injured by 
 the falling spars. 
 
 The very tall man I have mentioned was not 
 seen for days, and we supposed he had been 
 washed overboard ; but no : he had managed 
 to get below — how, it was not known, as 
 latterly, in the gale, the hatches were battened 
 down ; but when we made the shore, he 
 was found tied in his berth, with the remains 
 of a barrel of pork, which he lived on, without 
 cooking, for several days. 
 
 Our commodore, Sir 0. Schomberg, in ' the 
 Maidstone frigate, was here, and, as an old 
 friend of my brother's, I called upon him and 
 dined with him, relating our sad voyage. He 
 said it was sad indeed, for many vessels were 
 wrecked off the Cape, and many lives lost. 
 He kindly offered some of his men to assist in 
 repairing our vessel, which would detain us at 
 least a month in the harbour. 
 
 On the 23rd September I started for Cape 
 Town, and in Table Bay saw the wrecks of six 
 ships, with some of the surviving men working 
 •F 2 
 
68 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 at tliem. I do not think there can be a more 
 melancholy sight. Next day, being Sunday, 
 attended Divine service in the cathedral, a fine 
 old building, erected by the Dutch. The 
 stained glass was very beautiful. There has 
 been latterly so much written about Table 
 Mountain, the vicinity, and the interior of 
 Africa, that it would be needless to give any 
 description of what I was enabled to visit 
 before my return to the ship. 
 
 On the 19th October I was summoned to the 
 vessel, now thoroughly repaired, thanks to the 
 assistance from the English sailors. We em- 
 barked in fine weather and fair breeze, hoping 
 for good times. Nor were we disappointed: 
 we had hardly an unfavourable day, and 
 dropped our anchor off James Town, St. Helena, 
 about three weeks after. 
 
 The French officer and I visited Napoleon's 
 tomb, and I never witnessed anything more 
 affecting than the outpouring grief of this 
 gallant officer : he knelt at the tomb, and wept. 
 There lay the remains of one of the greatest 
 (if not the greatest) men of ancient or modern 
 times, who raised himself from a humble 
 degTce. 
 
 " Sic transit gloria miindi," 
 
 I could not help repeating. Yes, there was 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 69 
 
 the plain flat tombstone, unadorned but by 
 Nature's own simple grass and flowers sur- 
 rounding it, with the great man's crystal spring 
 beneath, the willows then flourishing above 
 it; and here were two soldiers, enemies in 
 some great battles, but now friends, mourning 
 the fate of him who certainly would have won 
 all had it not been for the " unflinching en- 
 durance and fortitude of British soldiers."* 
 But I could not help thinking that it was 
 ungracious, to say the least of it, for us, the 
 triumphant, to punish by banishment our 
 great prostrate foe, who threw himself upon 
 our clemency. We should have had nothing 
 to do with it, and it appeared to me a blot 
 upon our fair fame.f 
 
 On the 22nd November we made the "Western 
 Islands, and as it was exceedingly fine weather, 
 we waited for a boat from Angra, with fresh 
 fish and oranges — a very grateful supply. As 
 we sailed on towards the Bay of Biscay, we 
 began to feel the cold wintry weather of 
 
 * Such was said by the glorious emperor himself. 
 
 t A few years ago I met, in Paris, this gallant French 
 officer, and he assured me that the visit to Napoleon s tomb 
 by our gracious Queen Victoria did more to conciliate the 
 French army and people than any other act of kindness 
 towards them could have done. 
 
70 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Europe ; and on entering the bay, on the 3rd 
 of December, encountered a gale, but in our 
 favour. It blew so hard, we were obliged to 
 take in every bit of sail, and make for the Isle 
 de Rhe, where we arrived on the 6th. 
 
 The weather now being fine, we dropped 
 down the coast of France to Eochelle, which 
 we reached without accident. And so ended 
 our voyage fi:*om India, ,1 think one of the 
 longest ever known, excepting in the case of 
 Columbus on his voyage of discovery for a neW 
 world. We parted from our messmates with 
 regret, and we all interchanged presents of re- 
 membrance ; and the captain, officers, and 
 crew cheered me on entering a boat from the 
 shore ; my comrade, the brave French officer, 
 displaying his Cross of Honour, saying how 
 weU I deserved to have it. 
 
 Next morning I started for Paris, and put 
 up at the Hotel du Jour, Eue du Jour, where 
 I remained some days, very comfortable. 
 Hearing that King Louis Philippe was to have 
 a grand review, I attended, when thirty thou- 
 sand men, cavalry, infantry, and artillery, 
 passed before the king. They were well ap- 
 pointed, but not in the splendid way they used 
 to be under the Empire ; neither had the 
 soldiers that proud bearing so marked in the 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 71 
 
 time of Napoleon. The king was mounted on 
 a superb English horse, but did not appear to 
 ride well. I attended the levee afterwards, 
 at the Tuileries, where about two thousand 
 were assembled, amongst whom were a good 
 many English officers, one of whom I recog- 
 nized as having formerly served with him ; and 
 who, having seen in a French paper the account 
 of our long passage and hardships, tv^armly 
 congratulated me on being alive and well. 
 
 Having procured my passport, I left Paris, 
 and arrived home in time to eat my Christmas 
 dinner with my family, to whom I had the 
 pleasure to relate all my adventures. 
 
72 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 1832—1834. 
 
 MY sick-leave having expired, I applied for 
 a passage to India, via New South Wales, 
 having* a great desire to see that colony. In 
 due ■ course I got a reply to say that if I was 
 willing to take charge of the guard on board 
 a convict-sliip to Van Diemen's Land (now 
 Tasmania), I should have it. In July, 1833, 
 I repaired to Deptford with my guard of forty 
 men and another officer from the depot at 
 Chatham, and embarked on board the South- 
 ivortli convict-ship. The prisoners were put 
 on board a few days after. On the 14th we 
 sailed, and then the medical officer. Surgeon 
 Evans, of the Eoyal Navy, attended by myself, 
 inspected the prisoners. There were four 
 hundred men and forty boys, all in good health. 
 There were some fine-looking men amongst 
 them, as also some terrible-looking fellows. 
 There were three unfortunates, who had been 
 gentlemen, and still bore the appearance of 
 such : two were transported for forgery, the 
 other for the manslaughter of his wife. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 73 
 
 The ship had a formidable appearance. The 
 bulwarks were raised as high as possible con- 
 sistent with the navigation of the ship ; across 
 the quarter-deck was a barrier of oak a foot 
 and a half thick ; there were two embrazures, 
 with sliding boards behind, at which were 
 12-pound carronades, ready loaded ; twenty 
 men and an ofl&cer were on duty, day and 
 night ; two sentries were on the poop, and 
 two at the embrazures ; the rest under orders 
 there, ready for any emergency, with all guns 
 loaded.'* We fired off, in the morning, the 
 loaded guns, when we all paraded, at 7 a.m. 
 There were forty seamen, all experienced men- 
 of-war's men, armed to the teeth, ready to 
 assist the guard, or oppose any chance pirate 
 that might appear. Two veteran quarter- 
 masters of the navy had charge of the seamen ; 
 so that we were well prepared for any even- 
 tuality. But the nature of this duty is so 
 emergent, that it requires a man to sleep, as it 
 were, with one eye open ; and in a voyage of 
 four months' duration becomes wearisome in 
 the extreme. 
 
 The surgeon of the navy, beside attending 
 the sick, was also warranted as a magistrate 
 
 * The prisoners were divided into four bodies, one of 
 which was allowed to be on deck. 
 
74 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 pro tem.f and could punish by flogging, or 
 reducing the food to bread and water, refrac- 
 tory convicts. He had an allowance of half a 
 sovereign for every man he landed in the 
 colony, besides other allowances ; the guard had 
 nothing but their passage paid for, and their 
 rations, each a double allowance. Lieut. Cha- 
 proniere, of the 55th Eegiment, was the other 
 military officer, whom I knew at Chatham. He 
 was an amusing fellow, fond of smoking and 
 jollity. He generally got to the mizen-top, to 
 be away from our barrel of cartridges, and 
 there sing some amusing love ditties. 
 
 We cleared the Bay of Biscay on the 
 23rd, having good wind and weather, which 
 happily continued until we neared the trade 
 winds. Before this, there appeared off Teneriffe 
 a fine rakish-looking vessel, that followed us 
 for several hours, until evening fell. Had all 
 the prisoners below, and hatches on, in case of 
 any surprise from the stranger, until daylight 
 next morning. We were all on the look-out, 
 but nothing occurred. The captain made the 
 same vessel out, but at a great distance from 
 us. On getting to the Line we had only a few 
 days of calm. Here some prisoners became ill 
 from the heat. The doctor was very attentive 
 to their health ; wind-sails were employed to 
 
LIFE or LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 75 
 
 convey fresh air below. Two died of fever, 
 one of whom confessed to the doctor that when 
 a very young man he had murdered his father, 
 a farmer, when they were at labour , together, 
 and then buried him in a small wood close by, 
 as he was, which was never discovered, nor 
 was he ever suspected, from there being no 
 enmity between them that was known. He 
 described the place of sepulture, and also a 
 silver watch which his father had in his pocket 
 at the time. "What he was transported for 
 was a highway robbery in after-years. The 
 confession of the dying prisoner was sent 
 home in due course, but I never heard more 
 about it. 
 
 Fair wind and weather; the prisoners be- 
 haved well ; few punishments took place, and 
 these chiefly amongst the boys. We had them 
 for the most part on deck. Some played 
 draughts ; others told stories of their adven- 
 tures, or those of others ; some few sung in 
 unison together, and all conducted themselves 
 decently, to our great satisfaction ; so we got 
 on very well indeed for two months, soldiers 
 and seamen all healthy. Near midnight, 
 however, of one day, we heard a terrible 
 outcry from below. We were all as soon as 
 possible on the qui vive, I, the doctor, some 
 
76 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 seamen, and soldiers, descended, and found 
 three prisoners held down bj some others. 
 We learnt that they had contrived to get into 
 the hold, and there were cutting away at a 
 plank between the timbers, and had made 
 considerable progress, so they must have been 
 some nights about it, when some difference 
 between them caused their voices to be heard, 
 when they were discovered. They had deter- 
 mined to commit suicide in this way, by trying 
 to sink the vessel with themselves : this was 
 their account of the matter, and they said they 
 had no enmity to any one in particular to 
 cause them to do this. They had each, on 
 coming on board, concealed a fine saw and a 
 file, which were so neatly tied round with 
 muslin that they escaped the doctor's detection 
 when examining them. As may be imagined, 
 we all became alarmed at this extraordinary 
 discovery, which shows what a service of 
 danger this was ; for these men were amongst 
 the quietest and best-behaved of any of the 
 prisoners. 
 
 From this period nothing of any consequence 
 occurred ; our daily arduous duties went on as 
 usual, and, favoured with a fair wind and fine 
 weather, we got beyond our third month at sea. 
 As we neared the south latitudes, whales were 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 77 
 
 seen, and some days after a whale- ship came in 
 sight, following several of these animals. The 
 foremost, a very large one, we could see, as he 
 came near, spouted both blood and water. He 
 came at length alongside us, and actually 
 scraped his huge body against the side of the 
 ship. We felt a slight shock, but nothing 
 more. Whether he did this accidentally, or in 
 order to get rid of two lances sticking in his 
 side, we could not make out ; but we were glad 
 he passed us. We could see he was evidently 
 weakened by loss of blood. He was followed 
 by eight or ten other whales ; but, although 
 they came close, they did not touch us. It was 
 a curious and interesting sight, those monsters 
 of the deep swimming about us, heedless of 
 being seen. Two boats from the other ship 
 now came up in pursuit of the wounded whale. 
 The other ones either dived or moved away, 
 but he appeared unable to escape; so they 
 launched two other spears into him, and 
 then lay to for the ship's approach, which 
 we saw towards evening had secured the 
 prize. 
 
 On the 19th November we saw land, and on 
 the evening of that day passed Tasman's Head ; 
 on the 20th let go our anchor at Hobart Town* 
 The breadth and depth of the harbour of the 
 
78 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Derwent River is here very fine; and the 
 scenery, with Mount Wellington in the back- 
 ground, and the space nearly to its summit 
 clothed with the graceful eucalypti and gigantic 
 fern-tree, expanding and wavy, with many 
 wild-looking flowering shrubs around, pre- 
 sented a prospect both new and charming. 
 
 To our great joy, the day after anchoring we 
 were boarded by the two magistrates who 
 were muster-masters of the convicts, to whom 
 our doctor handed our prisoners over. They 
 were landed all well, and for the most part re- 
 ceived tickets-of-leave, in consequence of their 
 good conduct during the voyage. The two 
 men who tried to sink the ship with themselves, 
 and two other refractory characters, were 
 committed to prison. My guard was in very 
 good order, and when we landed were met by 
 the fine band of the 21st Fusiliers, who played 
 during our march to their barracks, when we 
 became attached to the regiment, and did duty 
 with them during our stay here. 
 
 On calling on the Grovernor, Sir George 
 Arthur, I met Doctor Evans, who introduced 
 me, and his Excellency was pleased to compli- 
 ment me on the care I took, not only as 
 regarding the management of my guard, but 
 in the assistance I rendered to the superin- 
 
LIFE or LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 79 
 
 tendent on board at all times during the 
 voyage. 
 
 In my excursions around Hobart Town I 
 could not but very much admire the orna- 
 mented cottages of the settlers, the owners of 
 which, on settling, got a town grant at a 
 moderate price, built thereon, and cultivated 
 their gardens, which grew in abundance most 
 of the fruits and vegetables of Europe. Fish 
 from the Derwent was abundant; a small 
 species of buffalo from the Cape produced 
 excellent beef; and, in short, everything about 
 showed the flourishing state of this country, 
 with its excellent climate. The Derwent could 
 conveniently hold hundreds of ships, trade 
 was rising around, and the convicts had made 
 beautiful roads to the interior; towns were 
 springing up everywhere, and industry pre- 
 vailed throughout. 
 
 A few months after my stay, I was ofiered, 
 for a mere nominal sum, a grant of two 
 thousand five hundred acres of land up the 
 country, one of the few grants still remaining 
 in the gift of the Governor ; but I declined it, 
 saying that I did not wish to leave the army 
 and settle here. But little did I consider how 
 valuable it would become in after-years ; for 
 such has been the prosperity of this place, that 
 
80 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 tliis piece of land would be worth at least ten 
 thousand pounds in these days. 
 
 I agreed witli Baron Hiigel, the Austrian 
 naturalist, to visit the interior, he to gather 
 specimens of- unknown plants, &c., I to have 
 the pleasure of a talented and agreeable com- 
 panion on my excursion. On we went, some- 
 thing like five or ten miles a day, putting up 
 with settlers, or pitching our own small tent 
 and living on our own provisions, carried by 
 a couple of pack-horses, and attended by a 
 ticket-of-leave man, whose conduct was ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 I had almost forgotten our trip to the top 
 of Wellington Mountain. On our second day 
 we were obliged to have a guide to direct us 
 in our ascent, as the dense underwood and 
 fallen trees would so much impede our pro- 
 gress. We had ascended about half a mile, 
 when the fragrant odour from the wild flowers 
 and flowering shrubs perfumed the air very 
 agreeably, until we got to the top of the 
 mountain, the ascent being about three miles. 
 From the many fallen trees and tangled 
 thickets we sometimes startled a snake, or 
 laughing jackass, or a mocking-bird, that 
 imitated the sounds of other birds. 
 
 We crossed over a bridge of eucalypti-trees 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 81 
 
 with some difficulty, as tlie foliage was so great 
 as to impede the traveller, and under which 
 we heard the roaring of a mountain torrent. 
 After some time we were obliged to ford 
 this stream, around which the fern-tree rose 
 to fifty feet in height, and of so great a breadth 
 that a company of soldiers could easily shelter 
 themselves beneath it. 
 
 When we were within about a thousand feet 
 of the top, the soil became scanty, and the 
 rocks abundant. Numbers of parrots of a 
 dark-blue, and bronze pigeons, flew about us, 
 together with the wattle-bird, the head and 
 neck of which were like our common cock. 
 The cold became great, although this season 
 of the year (6th February) was the advanced 
 summer season in this climate. The last four 
 hundred feet of our ascent was over large 
 blocks of stone resembling granite, somewhere 
 "about twenty feet in diameter, well calculated 
 for building material. These were for the 
 most part nearly covered with a beautiful rich 
 moss. We found it very difficult to get over 
 the obstruction, but at length reached the 
 top. There was not a cloud to be seen, and 
 the view was subhme. We could see, as on 
 a map, the whole of Storm Bay, the islands 
 and mainland around, to the distance of forty 
 
 G 
 
82 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 to fifty miles, with the Derwent on our left, 
 and the Huron River on our right, the banks 
 of which were covered with fine timber trees. 
 At this period this latter river was only par- 
 tially explored. 
 
 We descended some hundred and fifty feet 
 into the interior, and came upon an open piece 
 of table-land, several miles in extent, sprinkled 
 with low bush and other verdure, and the 
 broom plant in flower. As we passed on, we 
 shot some snipe of a very large size, also some 
 bronze pigeons. There were some pretty 
 winding rivulets, in which appeared some- 
 times a fish (herring size) rising at flies. 
 Some of the mosses were in flower, red, blue, 
 and light brown, of which the Baron, who 
 seemed delighted with his prizes, as they 
 were quite of a new species, gathered several 
 specimens. 
 
 At noon we commenced our descent by the 
 same way we came up, and when we arrived 
 at our tent felt much fatigued in our limbs. 
 We had been fortunate in our ascent, for, 
 before the evening closed, a dense mist covered 
 the whole mountain. 
 
 We shot, amongst other, things, a young 
 kangaroo, of the small species. Its mother was 
 with it, and another young one. They jumped 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 83 
 
 Up close to US, and on one being hit, the other 
 disappeared, having leaped into its mother's 
 purse or bag, in which it was born. This is 
 a curious formation, under the outside of the 
 animal, and a common one with other animals 
 in the South. 
 
 We had just dined, when a furious wind 
 came on with a whirling motion, upsetting our 
 tent and eatables, and scattering them far and 
 wide. These are of frequent occurrence in the 
 summer months, raising clouds of dust ; but 
 they are soon over. Next day proceeded on 
 our tour, and passing New Norfolk, fell in with 
 a branch of the Derwent, and enjoyed some 
 hours' good fishing. The fish before men- 
 tioned, a kind of smelt, was extremely good 
 eating. The trumpeter fish, also good, is 
 rather large and flat, and makes a blowing, 
 shrill noise on raising itself above water, 
 whence it is called by its odd name. As we 
 neared Launceston, several very pretty cottages 
 appeared, the holders of which, having various 
 grants of from one to five hundred acres, 
 appeared to get on extremely well. There they 
 felt independent and happy ; fine children rose 
 around them, the parents sure of provision 
 in their old age; cattle, sheep in abundance, 
 with their splendid silky fleece ; barn-door fowl 
 
 G 2 
 
84 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 innumerable, and plenty of wood firing, made 
 them feel to want nothing. The young people 
 used to meet at each other's dwellings occa- 
 sionally — dance, sing, and otherwise amuse 
 themselves more than half the night; then 
 up, after a few hours' rest, to their different 
 labours, either in the farm-yard or field 
 cultivation. Had I not had such regard 
 for my profession, I would certainly have 
 remained, and, with a kind helpmate, enjoyed 
 the pleasant, quiet, and independent habits of 
 a settler's life here pourtrayed. 
 
 As we expressed a wish to see a kangaroo 
 hunt, of the large boomer species, the Baron, 
 myself, and others, repaired to a large tract 
 of uncultivated ground, with the high brush- 
 wood in plenty on it. In this is found the 
 animal. We had several dogs, and an old 
 friend had lent me his English greyhound, 
 which accompanied me after considerable 
 labour. We came on a male and female 
 boomer, which the dogs roused up. They 
 parted different ways, and my dog pursued the 
 largest. The animal went on, making springs, 
 some of them twenty feet in length. As 
 everybody knows, they have immense, long, 
 powerful hind-legs, armed with long, hard 
 claws; with these they defend themselves 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 85 
 
 against dogs or men, when they come to bay. 
 Before this came about, the animal kept our 
 horses at speed for a couple of miles ; it then 
 became exhausted, and sat ' up with its back 
 against a tree. My greyhound fearlessly rushed 
 in to seize it, but in doing so received such 
 a blow as knocked him over; and before we 
 and the dogs closed on the kangaroo, he 
 repeated the blow, and with his claws laid the 
 poor greyhound open, so that his death was 
 almost immediate. The other dogs and men 
 now attacked the brute, which made but little 
 further resistance before he was killed. He 
 measured more than five feet in length, not 
 including his powerful hind-legs or short tail. 
 
 The birds we saw on our excursion were 
 numerous. Wild ducks, the emu, the eagle, 
 the black swan, and geese, were at that time 
 plentiful enough ; since then, few are to be 
 seen. 
 
 As we had received letters at Launceston, 
 stating that a ship with troops was soon to 
 sail for Sydney, New South "Wales, I was con- 
 strained to retrace my steps, and arrived in 
 eight days at Hobart Town. I left this island 
 of beauty early in April, 1834, in charge of my 
 detachment and other troops. In the course of 
 a week we arrived at Sydney in safety, and 
 
86 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I could not help feeling surprise at seeing this 
 truly noble place — everything so English and 
 fresh ; the London cries, and hawkers going 
 about the fine streets to sell their goods, as 
 it used to be in times past in England. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 87 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 1834. 
 
 IEJS'G-AGED a passage to Madras in the 
 Edinburgh Castle^ Captain Barber, who 
 told me that he intended to go through the 
 inner passage, that is, through Torres Straits, 
 which I was glad to hear, as there were many 
 things quite new to be seen. Having given 
 over my detachment to the authorities, I was 
 preparing to embark, when I learnt that an 
 accident had happened to the ship, which was 
 of so serious a nature that it would probably 
 detain her in harbour for some weeks. This 
 enabled me to visit the country. 
 
 In Paramatta I met with an old brother 
 officer of the 13th Dragoons, who was here 
 breeding draught horses for the Indian artillery. 
 He begged that I would take charge of thirty- 
 two horses, he being in treaty with the captain 
 of the Edinburgh Castle to convey them on 
 board that ship to India. I consented, though I 
 knew they would be a trouble to look after them. 
 
 From Paramatta I went to other places, 
 where I was well received, and where I was 
 
88 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 nearly lost in tlie bush. Having missed my 
 way while shooting, not a soul to be seen, nor 
 a house near for miles, I bethought me of the 
 miserable fate of Major Hovenden, who lost 
 himself in the far wilds of this country, a few 
 years previously, and whose remains were 
 found, months after he disappeared, by the 
 dogs of some sportsmen. Fortunately I had 
 a very small compass-ornament to my watch- 
 chain, in good order, and knowing the bearings 
 of Sydney, I made my way in that direction 
 with great difl&culty, when, towards evening) 
 I met with a road which I foUo^wed, and at 
 about 10 o'clock p.m. reached a settler's house. 
 I had gone many miles astray, and, had it not 
 been for the compass, perhaps might have met 
 with the miserable fate of poor Hovenden. 
 
 On arriving at Sydney, I met with an old 
 naval friend, on his way to pay a short visit 
 to New Zealand, and then return. I begged 
 to go with him, which he agreed to. We 
 had a short and agreeable passage. This is, 
 if possible, a finer country than Australia, and 
 the natives, in appearance, manners, and 
 intellect, are quite a superior race. They come 
 up to you with a confidence and bold bearing 
 unknown to the natives of Australia, who are 
 well known to be a miserable race. Both 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 89 
 
 Captain Stanley and I agreed in thinking they 
 would give us plenty to do in governing them, 
 and so it has turned out of late years. 
 
 On returning from New Zealand, I found that 
 the Edinburgh Castle was ready, and the horses 
 were being embarked. On the 12th of May I 
 went on board, and the horses were given over 
 to me by Captain Collins, with four farriers to 
 attend them, and we sailed next day from the 
 superb harbour of Sydney. 
 
 On looking over the horses, I found them 
 more fitted for draught than the Arabs and 
 country-bred horses of India. They |^ere 
 mostly from the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 ranged from fifteen to sixteen hands high, full 
 of bone and muscle, and were descended from 
 horses of English breed. On the 16th we 
 passed Indian Head, a dangerous reef, ten to 
 fourteen miles long, which we were right glad 
 to leave behind. 
 
 In a few days we made Torres Straits. The 
 water here is so clear, that one can see twenty, 
 sometimes thirty feet down, the coral rocks 
 generally appearing white, sometimes brown, 
 according to their age. It is marvellous how 
 those minute animalculse can form such masses, 
 but so constantly are they at work, that in 
 the course of time this channel will not be 
 
90 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 navigable. As it is — or was tlien — tlie captain 
 was obliged to anchor the ship every evening, 
 which gave me an opportunity of visiting some 
 of the beautiful but small islands we constantly 
 met with on our passage. They are mostly 
 uninhabited, but are visited occasionally by 
 the natives of a large group called the Murray 
 Islands, either for the purpose of fishing or 
 plunder. These islanders appear to eat every- 
 thing they can catch, including human beings 
 with whom they may happen to be at war. 
 
 After some days, the group of the IS'orth- 
 umberland Islands were in sight. These are 
 bold and precipitous, the cliffs covered with 
 several kinds of sea-birds. I landed at the 
 largest of them with one of the farriers. This 
 man, in his anxiety to catch an animal resem- 
 bling the land- crab of the West Indies, but 
 four times the size, having thrust his hand 
 into the hole which it entered, had it seized 
 by the animal, and was unable to withdraw 
 it without assistance. The bite was severe, 
 though not venomous ; but he was unable to 
 use his hand for a week afterwards. Here 
 I shot some beautiful green pigeons, with red 
 bills and feet. 
 
 A day or two after, we anchored off the 
 Percy Islands, which are five in number, and 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 91 
 
 covered with verdure. The centre one is 
 about four miles in circuit. Its appearance is 
 lovely, having an open, white, sandy bay on 
 one side, which glittered in the sun. An emi- 
 nence, covered with grass and blue flowers, 
 and from which descended a rivulet, on whose 
 banks were groups of a species of laurustine, 
 intermingled with the fern-tree, rose to the 
 top of the island. Never could one behold 
 a scene more tranquil and soothing to the 
 mind, inducing one to feel a little poetical. 
 So, indeed, I felt. I ventured to express my 
 feelings in words, and here is the result : — 
 
 " I know a dear, a lovely spot, — 
 A scene of sunshine and of flowers ; 
 And gladly would I fix my lot 
 Amidst its smiling lawns and bowers. 
 There sweet waters softly play, 
 Telling to blossom'd banks their tale ; 
 And Music's note and Pleasure's lay 
 Glide gaily through that joyous vale. 
 Yet think not that in bowers and brooks 
 ' The best and dearest charm is found : — 
 
 Oh, no ! 'Tis the home of one whose looks 
 Shed light, and hope, and spring around. 
 And, were it changed to trackless sand, 
 Love's magic wand the scene would hail; 
 And flowers and fruits of fairy-land 
 Would flourish in the desert vale."* 
 
 Pray be very civil, Reader 
 
92 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I have no doubt that in later years the 
 numerous fertile islands of this strait will be 
 colonized. The only drawback is, its being 
 land-locked on each side, and the ever-growing 
 coral rocks. Passing on, with the trade- wind 
 blowing from the S.E., we passed Cumberland 
 Islands, two of which are eight to ten miles 
 round. On we came to Sunday Islands, two 
 of which are about twenty miles round, of an 
 oblong shape, and presenting a chalky appear- 
 ance, with some scrub bushes here and there 
 upon them. Several fish, of a bright red 
 colour, one to two feet long, rose to the 
 surface and bounced about, seemingly in play 
 with each other, but they would not take a 
 bait. I shot one, but did not succeed in 
 getting it. Several of the other fish followed 
 it to the bottom, thirty feet down, where we 
 could clearly see them devouring the dead 
 one. 
 
 On the 31st May sailed past Palm Islands, 
 one large, the other small and rocky; then 
 on to Fitzroy Island, where, on the 12th June, 
 we took in a supply of excellent water for the 
 horses. Latitude here, 16° 65' 21" S. ; longi- 
 tude, 145° 36' 21" E. This island was so very 
 pretty, and the water so good, that two pas- 
 senger ladies (Mrs. Conolly and her amiable 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 93 
 
 sister) wished to land and roam about, and 
 to have a pic-nic on shore. The two ladies 
 and four gentlemen did so, and it was a 
 charming spot : the laurustine, a species of 
 laurel, with a perfume somewhat similar ; the 
 mimosa and eucalypti, and various flowering 
 shrubs of white and blue, were scattered over 
 the velvety grass. We wandered about this 
 sweet place, and nothing noxious crossed our 
 path. We met with some long spider-webs, 
 and saw very large mottled -white spiders 
 running on them in quest of the many insects 
 and large moths which occasionally flew about. 
 There were cockatoos of a large kind, richly 
 tufted on the head ; pigeons, green and white, 
 the latter with red feathers about their head. 
 Several were shot, and were good eating. 
 This island, about twelve miles long and six 
 broad, only wants the hands of man to make 
 it most productive, as the soil appears so rich 
 that it would grow anything, particularly tro- 
 pical fruits and flowers.* We came on some 
 small fishing-huts used by the natives of the 
 
 * In some of the islands we observed, hanging from trees 
 near the shore, gigantic bats, or rather flying foxes. I shot 
 one. The wings, extended, were 2 feet ; the body the size 
 of a small rabbit. They feed on anything they can got, and 
 are like a fox. 
 
94 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 mainland, in their excursions for fish and a 
 species of oyster whicli abounds in some 
 places. 
 
 On the 20th we came to the Murray Islands, 
 a group extending along the channel for many 
 miles. Here we saw red and white coral-rocks 
 rising several hundred feet, presenting, from 
 their grotesque appearance, a most magical 
 efiect, from the sun glittering upon them. On 
 these rocks were perched some natives — men, 
 women, and children, totally nude. They were 
 the ugliest people I ever saw, and are cannibals. 
 I landed, and Captain Barber cautioned me not 
 to go far from the landing-place ; for, he said, 
 '' as you are still rather young, not bad looking, 
 and pretty fresh, the natives, could they catch 
 you, would have quite a treat in feasting on 
 you, after you were nicely roasted. The ladies 
 are said to prefer white flesh, to the cost of 
 some of our poor sailors, who are known to 
 have been eaten by them after being pounced 
 upon when wandering carelessly in the in- 
 terior." I therefore did not go far from the 
 coast, and, having my choice double-barreled 
 Manton with me, was careful not to discharge 
 both barrels. It was well I did not; for, on 
 putting up some sea-snipe, I knocked over one, 
 and pursued the rest to a swampy cover farther 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 95 
 
 than I intended. I succeeded in killing several 
 of those birds, and, as it was getting towards 
 evening, turned down to the beach, but was 
 obliged to pass through some thick cover on 
 my way, when, lo ! I found myself nearly 
 surrounded by woolly heads ; and, before I 
 could load the discharged barrel, I had four of 
 those wretches nearly upon me with their clubs. 
 With the ' loaded barrel I gave the charge 
 amongst them, when they yelled and vanished. 
 Not being aware of a two-shotted gun, those 
 savages supposed I had the power to load it 
 by magic. 
 
 On returning to the ship, I felt a httle 
 ashamed to tell my story, as the leer on the 
 captain's face plainly told me he had already 
 learned it of the boat's crew. However, there 
 I was, body and bones, neither killed nor eaten, 
 to the great disappointment, I suppose, of the 
 black ladies. We picked up one of their canoes 
 on shore, and so light was it, that one man 
 might carry it. It was made with considerable 
 skill, of palmyra leaves, curiously sewn to- 
 gether by the stringy bark of the same tree. 
 
 Up to the 26th we sailed on, dropping anchor 
 every evening, until we made Hope Island. 
 Here the coral rocks under water rose so near 
 the surface that we were in. some dread lest 
 
96 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the vessel would ground even at high tide, and 
 then the horses would be sacrificed by their 
 having to be thrown overboard to lighten the 
 ship. The vessel did, indeed, ground, but it 
 was at low water, which saved the horses, but 
 not, however, without much difficulty, for the 
 captain said, better to lose the horses than 
 lose the ship. There could be no doubt of 
 that. There was a slight wind in our favour, 
 but the probability was, that with the rising 
 tide we should get ofi" the reef. The captain 
 was somewhat alarmed, and insisted upon 
 making sure by throwing the horses overboard. 
 His first officer and some others did not agree 
 with him on the necessity of the case, so this 
 gave me an opportunity of speaking. I said 
 my life was as dear to me as that of any on 
 board ; but, as I had heard there was no real 
 danger, and it was nearly calm, I thought we 
 had better wait to see what would occur on the 
 rising tide. The captain said, " Well, I do not 
 think. Captain Nevill, you are so good a judge, 
 as you have so recently risked your life for a few 
 wild birds.'* I did not either like this rather 
 unkind remark, nor to reply to it ; but, as I was 
 well backed up, I resolved to wait the result, 
 and resist destroying the poor horses. The 
 captain, prudently, I think, gave way. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 97 
 
 In a few hours tlie tide rose under the ship so 
 high that, aided by the boats, we slid off the coral 
 rocks, and saved the horses and our heavy bag- 
 gage. The captain looked nearly as silly as I did 
 on my escape from the inhabitants of the Murray 
 Islands, and we were never cordial afterwards, 
 nor, indeed, particularly intimate at any time, 
 for he was always grumbling at his folly, as he 
 called it, in taking the horses on board, 
 although, as he acknowledged, the being well 
 paid for them made the risk lighter ; but, as he 
 said, how would he answer to his owners in 
 case of any disaster ? That was his own look- 
 out ; and if he thought it so dangerous, why did 
 he run so great a risk? Indeed, the horses 
 gave us a deal of trouble, for they required so 
 much looking after, and many were rather un- 
 ruly tempered, as are some other animals. We 
 had only two violent brutes, who were always 
 trying to attack the farriers when clearing out 
 the stable, and kicking at the barricade sepa- 
 rating them from the rest ; they got up a row 
 amongst the others, and kept the farriers, with 
 myself, very much on the alert. 
 
 On the 29th we made Endeavour River, 
 passing several islands. This was a very 
 dangerous locality, and we were always on the 
 look-out, and the lead going. The sea was 
 
 H 
 
98 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 very clear, but deceptive in appearance ; and it 
 was here tliat the celebrated first navigator of 
 those seas, Captain Cook, experienced many 
 difficulties, and where his ship grounded and 
 lay for twenty-three hours. 
 
 Made Turtle Eeef, which is so called from 
 the presence here of those animals. We caught 
 one — a timely supply. Going cautiously on, we 
 anchored at Eagle Island, where a few of us 
 landed, and picked up some enormous shells. 
 Here, and on other islands, we shot several 
 birds ; amongst them a kind of curlew, black, 
 with blue and white wings, and long red bill 
 and tail. The others were of the diick, seagull, 
 and petrel tribe. We continued passing several 
 islands, mostly of the same description as those 
 already named, but not appearing either so 
 pretty or fertile. It was now getting very hot 
 as we neared the Equator. 
 
 As we passed Bird Island we saw it covered 
 with pelicans, boobies, a kind of goose, and 
 immense flocks of sandpipers, and others too 
 numerous to make out, and a kind of small 
 penguin occupying the shore. 
 
 In 10° 36' 0''S. and 141° 52' 50" E. we met 
 with the Dryad. She had encountered terrible 
 weather before entering the straits on her 
 passage from India to Sydney, and had lost her 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 99 
 
 foremast, besides losing several of her men 
 washed overboard. We gave them some sup- 
 plies, of which they were much in want. They 
 mentioned having seen a large vessel high and 
 dry on a coral reef near the mainland, with 
 masts and yards gone, and filled with natives, 
 who appeared in full possession of her. 
 
 On the 2nd of July we gained the open sea, and 
 had no more anchoring. Neared the very large 
 island of Timour, famous for its breed of ponies. 
 It is partly occupied by the Dutch and Portu- 
 guese, who possess opposite sides of the island, 
 and have each a certain portion of territory sepa- 
 rate. This island is more than three hundred 
 miles round. It is extremely fertile, possessing, 
 like India, sugar, cotton, indigo, &c. We landed 
 at Copang, and visited the Dutch governor, 
 who was extremely civil. Here our captain was 
 to remain some days, taking in supplies and 
 fi:'eight for the Indian market. Several of us 
 dined with the governor. He had many Dutch 
 gentlemen and ladies, who spoke English, and 
 were jolly, good-humoured people, liking the 
 English much. We talked a good deal about 
 England and Holland, the Dutch people saying, 
 " We are much alike, and never again shall 
 we be unfriendly towards each other." A 
 very stout, fair widow sat next to me during 
 
 H 2 
 
100 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 dinner, and I had tlie good fortune to gain her 
 good opinions. She asked me to her villa, some 
 ten miles off, and said the longer I could remain 
 the better. This was most pleasing to me, as I 
 wished much to see something of the interior 
 of this thriving place. After dinner we had 
 coffee, schnaps, pineapple wine, and such cool 
 cocoanut- water that it was quite a treat. 
 Later in the evening we had quite a reception 
 of young people. The fiddle, dulcimer, and a 
 fine old harpsichord, were not wanting ; and the 
 young ladies danced country dances and some 
 quadrilles until morning. People here appear 
 to lead a very happy life. 
 
 The town contained at that time about eight 
 thousand inhabitants, and the usual cleanliness 
 and regularity prevailed here as in Holland. 
 The day after, I set off for the widow's villa, 
 on a horse provided for me by her, she accom- 
 panying me on another horse. Our ride was 
 delightful. The roads were very good, the 
 cultivation magnificent, and numerous birds 
 of brilliant plumage occasionally passed from 
 one plantation to another across our path ; 
 many flowers also, from Dutchland, were 
 there. The chrysanthemum, now so plentiful 
 in England, was then an exotic but little 
 known, but flourished here in abundance and in 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 101 
 
 great beauty. We at length came to the lady's 
 hospitable chateau, for it partook of this style 
 of architecture, as well as the old Flemish 
 very comfortable farmyard style. We passed 
 from the entrance gateway through a passage 
 to the interior of the dwelling, and from open 
 apertures in this passage we could see several 
 horses feeding, their stables being situated 
 behind, which is a very good way of seeing 
 the horses taken care of, without going round 
 to the stables. The lady kindly conducted me 
 over her gardens — handsome, and abounding 
 in pineapples and fruit-trees. The banana and 
 plantain flourished beside each other; the 
 cypress and myrtle were abundant; and a 
 cocoanut-tree here and there put me in mind 
 of the refreshing draught I had from that 
 delicious nut, the evening before, in Copang. 
 Some days passed away in a most agreeable 
 manner : some of the neighbouring families 
 were asked to make up an evening party, and 
 their hearty goodnature made everything agree- 
 able. There were some very pretty young 
 vrows, just coming into girlhood, without that 
 stoutness generally attending the elder girls 
 or their mammas ; and their pretty, artless 
 manner made them very interesting. There 
 is nothing like roughing it a little ; then 
 
102 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 meeting with comfort and agreeable people 
 makes the enjoyment one feels ten times more 
 pleasing than otherwise. Days slipped away 
 so agreeably that I thought not of ships or 
 horses, until a horseman handed me a letter 
 to say the captain was only waiting for me 
 before he sailed. So at peep of day I started 
 for Copang. Before I did so, the kind widow 
 put a letter into my hand, which was as fol- 
 lows: — ''Why do you leave us? You appear 
 very happy here, and we — especially myself — 
 feel very reluctant to part from you. I have 
 heard much of your services and travels, which 
 have highly interested me in your favour. 
 Stay, then, and settle down here ; and if I can 
 conduce to your happiness, I will. You have 
 seen my pretty place ; I am independent and 
 rich. But perhaps you have a favourite 
 looking out for your return home ; if so, 
 it would be far from my wish to detain you 
 here. So, pray, before you leave, write me 
 a few lines, and accept the enclosed " (this was 
 a handsome gold ring). I could not but feel 
 highly grateful to this good creature for her 
 partiality, benevolence, and most kind feeling. 
 I wrote her a note, expressing how grateful 
 I felt, and assuring her that I would ever 
 remember and appreciate her kindness; and 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 103 
 
 begged her to accept a ring of mine, in return 
 for hers. 
 
 Before leaving this interesting place, I 
 learned that, prior to its being colonized by 
 Europeans, it was so much infested by boa- 
 constrictors of an enormous size, that the 
 aboriginal inhabitants were deterred from en- 
 tering the dense forests, for fear of being 
 seized and 'swallowed by them. When in 
 search of food, they sometimes lie in wait, 
 in the plains, or beside streams or patches 
 of water, to catch man or beast. 
 
 The natives of those days believed that those 
 huge reptiles were favoured by the great evil 
 spirit which they worshipped ; believing also in 
 a good spirit, who would not injure them or 
 deprive them of their food. Therefore, before 
 venturing on their fishing parties, they used 
 to place some of the old men, and those 
 accused of witchcraft, near the haunts of those 
 serpents, to propitiate their aid in obtaining 
 their supplies of food during the winter season. 
 
 The new colonists were, many years ago, 
 frequently carried ofi" by these reptiles, until 
 their firearms and united force nearly de- 
 stroyed them. An odd one was still occa- 
 sionally seen, but always attacked, and, if 
 possible, destroyed. 
 
104 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 We sailed on the 13tii, and in a few days 
 crossed the Line ; and it was fortunate for 
 the lives of the horses that we did so, for there 
 were thirty-two of them pent up in the hold, 
 as close as they could be, and the heat told 
 greatly upon them. One died, and some 
 others were very ill. The vicious ones were 
 completely subdued, and gave no further 
 trouble. 
 
 On the 17th we got five degrees over -the 
 Equator, with a fresh breeze, when another 
 horse died ; but as we got into the cooler 
 climate, the rest became better. 
 
 We continued our voyage for some time, 
 nothing particular occurring ; but the sharks 
 about the ship were more numerous than ever 
 I remember : they probably smelt the horses. 
 The youngsters, on one occasion, lost their 
 mess, by a large shark raising himself so far 
 out of the water as to seize their mess of pork 
 hanging near the sea by a string to soften it. 
 The young men became infuriated, and begged 
 hard for another portion ; on receiving which, 
 they lowered it to the beast, who was recognized 
 by a part of the string from his jaws. Nothing 
 loth, he swallowed the bait, and was at length 
 brought on board ; and on being opened, their 
 rations appeared quite whole, and apparently 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 105 
 
 notliing the worse. It was cooked, and re- 
 ported excellent. 
 
 On the 27th, we made Ceylon ; and on the 
 3rd August, Madras. We landed the thirty- 
 horses, by aid of the Masulah boats, next day, 
 very thin, but in good spirits ; and I delivered 
 them to the commissary of ordnance, with great 
 joy to myself, and got some credit for these 
 horses, they being the first batch, on trial, 
 from Sydney that had succeeded in reaching 
 India. 
 
 After visiting some old friends, I embarked 
 for Calcutta, where I arrived, without accident, 
 on the 22nd, having been two years and five 
 months from my duty on sick-leave. Here 
 I received letters from my commanding- officer, 
 Colonel Oglander, an excellent officer and 
 right good man, stating that he was on his 
 way with the 26th Regiment, accompanied by 
 a wing of the 11th Light Dragoons, three 
 native regiments, and six 12-pounders, to 
 attack Joudpoor, the capital of a Rajpoot 
 State, which had risen in rebelhon, plundering 
 neighbouring states, and committing many 
 enormities. 
 
 I had nothing for it, if I wished to be up in 
 time for fighting, but to go post to Ajmeer, 
 a fatiguing journey of about eight hundred 
 
106 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 miles, in a palanquin. It was now tlie begin- 
 ning of September, tlie monsoon just com- 
 mencing; so the sooner I started the better. 
 A few days I was obliged to wait, in order 
 to lay my palanquin-bearers; then off before 
 a week passed. The monsoon visited the 
 country with great fury, — so much so, that 
 I was detained in a post bungalow for two 
 days, and then made but short progress, being 
 often stopped by swollen rivers, inundations, &c. 
 An officer of the 26th (Captain Thompson) 
 travelled post with me, which was some 
 consolation on my dreary route. 
 
 It was not before the beginning of October 
 that we got to our destination, where we heard 
 that the rajah had submitted on seeing we 
 were in earnest. The force under Colonel 
 Oglander halted, and we had plenty of time 
 to join. Captain Thompson and I were very 
 much annoyed at seeing all our labour and 
 expense in vain, and agreed that, could we 
 have laid hands on his highness, we should 
 have been delighted to have obliged him 
 to partake of the whole of a bottle of 
 Chili vinegar — a dose that, without particu- 
 larly injuring the man, would undoubtedly 
 have given him a very disagreeable employment 
 for some days. 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 107 
 
 The expedition against this troublesome 
 prince being broken up, the different regiments 
 proceeded to their several stations ; we to 
 Meerut, one of the best in this part of India 
 — a few marches from the far-famed Delhi, 
 Agra, the Tatz Mahal, &c. 
 
 All those eminent places have recently been 
 so often described by travellers, that it is 
 unnecessary, at this time of day, to attempt a 
 description of them.* Steam has brought 
 distant countries so near, that travellers of the 
 olden day have but little to say. However 
 this may be, a visit from the far West must 
 still prove highly interesting, not only to 
 witness those places so celebrated in history, 
 both for good and evil deeds, but to enjoy a tour 
 in the mighty Himalayas,! one of the grandest 
 scenes in nature. 
 
 During the cool months, many of us got 
 leave to visit those regions, or elsewhere, for 
 sporting, the jungles in the neighbourhood 
 
 * My thirty years' service in most parts of the world is 
 now quite out of date : the modern excursionists, of some 
 three years' travel, cut me out. 
 
 t I first saw them at a great distance. I felt astonish- 
 ment, mixed with admiration. The sight seemed to carry 
 me to the Creator, to whom nothing is elevated, nothing is 
 boundless. 
 
108 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 of Meerut, at this period, teeming with game, 
 particularly at many miles' distance, in the 
 Cauder-Doon, extending a great way into the 
 interior of deep jungle, and in former times 
 being partly a bed of the mighty Ganges, 
 before a sinking of the earth, or earthquake, 
 elsewhere, caused it to flow in another di- 
 rection. 
 
 The Cauder-Doon was then highly prized for 
 its abundance of large game : various kinds of 
 deer, the wild boar, and sometimes the elephant, 
 were to be met with ; and, above all, the tiger, 
 of the largest and most ferocious kind, was 
 here. There were some of the boars so large 
 and determined, that some native hunters 
 said they would face the tiger, meeting him in 
 open field. This seldom occurred: the stealthy 
 tiger, with all his ferocity, is cowardly in his 
 ways; avoids open attack, preferring to ad- 
 vance under cover, and so surprise his enemy, 
 springing upon him, and giving his mighty 
 blow, which generally destroys his victim. 
 
 In many parts of the Doon are deep pools 
 of water : some are occasionally covered with 
 the lotus, red and white — very beautiful, — and 
 huge creepers. In these lie the greenish species 
 of alligator, a small but very dangerous and 
 active kind, which in the evening lie on the 
 
LIFE or LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 109 
 
 edge of tliose pools, ready to seize any animal 
 coming to drink. 
 
 Some parts of the Doon grow very beautiful 
 shrubs and flowers, — amongst them a sort of 
 dwarf rhododendron, yielding a strong perfume 
 of rather an overpowering nature. 
 
110. SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 1835. 
 
 IN" tlie early part of 1835, four of us, officers 
 of the 26th, got leave of absence to visit 
 the Doon for sporting; and then I had leave 
 to proceed on a tour to the Himalayas. We 
 procured four elephants, two of them steady 
 animals, well used to sporting excursions. As 
 we resolved to beat up large game, we agreed 
 to begin about daylight, charged with ball in 
 our rifles and double-barrels ; and then, about 
 noon, try for smaller game, which latter we 
 were always sure of getting; and in the 
 evening returning to our camp with a good 
 bag, comprising some peafowl and an odd 
 deer or two; florican, delicious eating; black 
 partridge, snipe, &c. ; and now and then a 
 woodcock, in appearance resembling those in 
 Europe. 
 
 How those birds of passage find their way 
 to such an immense distance from where they 
 breed, in Europe, is somewhat surprising. 
 Peafowl, we found, made excellent soup, the 
 flavour of which was superior to most others. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. Ill 
 
 When we got a young one, we liad him stuffed 
 and roasted, turkey fashion, which did very 
 well, for our Indian cooks were of the best. 
 
 Two hogs fell to our guns, but as yet no 
 tiger. At last we got one. It was getting to- 
 wards 12 A.M. one day, when about separating 
 for small game, that a Royal tiger started up 
 from the low grass between Captain Campbell's 
 elephant and mine. The elephants shied, yet, 
 considering the nearness and suddenness of 
 the roar of the tiger, behaved well, for they 
 were instantly brought up by the mahouts. 
 The tiger, who stood his ground, made an 
 attack on Campbell's elephant, but, by the 
 management of the driver, he failed in reaching 
 the howdah. Then we saw, by the waving 
 of the grass, that he was creeping to a hollow 
 full of trees at no great distance. Now, then, 
 was our time. Before reaching the hollow, 
 he was obliged to pass some bare ground ; we 
 were within about sixty yards of him, on this 
 open space, when he turned to charge. We 
 both fired with decided effect, one ball piercing 
 his neck, the other ball breaking his shoulder- 
 joint. How he could possibly rush forward, 
 after receiving those fatal shots, surprised us ; 
 but he did so, and fell, to rise no more, close 
 to our elephants. He was a very fine animal, 
 
112 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 six feet in length, not including the tail, which 
 was nearly three and a half feet . long, and the 
 skin beautifally marked, — so much so, that we 
 remained on the spot until two camel- drivers 
 skinned him for us. 
 
 The inhabitants of the neighbouring villages 
 came about us, rejoicing at their deliverance 
 from an enemy who had not only killed several 
 of their cattle, but two of themselves. And 
 here I beg to say, with all due respect to 
 brother sportsmen, that I have been not a 
 little surprised in reading the facility with 
 which they appear to destroy, in a given time, 
 so many wild beasts at the present day — 
 elephants, lions, panthers, &c. &c., in Africa, and 
 tigers in India. I can answer for the difficulty 
 and danger of attacking the latter, particularly 
 pn foot or horseback. The wily and treacherous 
 nature of those animals is proverbial — alas ! 
 to the cost of a very fine and most promising 
 officer, Lieut. MacMurdo, of the Bombay Ar- 
 tillery, who went after a Royal tiger,* alone, 
 and on foot. He found him, and on this 
 occasion the tiger must have faced him ; he 
 waited his approach, until within some ten 
 
 * A man-eater is so called, from having killed and eaten 
 several men. 
 
LIFE OF LIETTT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 113 
 
 paces, when he fired, just as the brute sprung 
 forward. They were both found dead together, 
 the ofl&cer from his head being crushed in by 
 the tiger's blow, and the latter with a rifle- 
 ball in his brain. Such was the account given 
 by the deceased ofl&cer's horse-keeper, who 
 watched the event from a prudent distance. 
 
 The term of leave of my companion-sports- 
 men having expired, I proceeded alone to 
 Delhi. On my way to the far-famed Himalayas, 
 at Delhi, I met with an old friend in the Civil 
 Service, holding a high position at the king's 
 court, to whose house I went for the few days 
 I intended to remain. He showed me over 
 this celebrated place, and said, " If you stay 
 here until the king holds his court, I will 
 introduce you." On the day appointed, I 
 accompanied my friend and suite to court. 
 At the entrance to the state-rooms we were 
 provided with a stuffed white silken slipper, 
 in lieu of our boots ; these were very com- 
 fortable and warm, as we threaded the marble 
 floors. When arrived in the throne-room, we 
 saw a splendid muslin curtain, dividing it in 
 the centre, before which we arranged ourselves 
 according to our ofiicial rank, when we were 
 offered iced water and fruit ; and when we had 
 partaken of these, the attendants withdrew, 
 
114 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and shortly after the curtain was drawn from 
 its centre gently aside, and there, on his 
 crystal throne, sat the king, a very fine-looking 
 man, of middle age, surrounded by his court 
 and some neighbouring princes to do him 
 homage. 
 
 We all followed the example of the Resident, 
 by bowing low, as we advanced towards him, 
 three times. Our names and designation were 
 stated to him by an emir, on his knees, holding 
 up his hands in the most graceful manner 
 possible (Asiatic fashion) ; another great man 
 then brought in dresses of honour (khilauts), a 
 sort of long flowing robe, which was thrown 
 around each of us, and fastened on the breast 
 by the king, who called each a Sahib Behauder.* 
 We then retired, fronting the throne, when the 
 curtain gradually closed, and so the reception 
 ended. 
 
 This ceremony was certainly done extremely 
 well : the very handsome fine-dressed men 
 around the king, the old ones in muslin robes, 
 many of the young ones, as a body-guard, in 
 l^right chain armour of gold and silver; the 
 veneration and profound respect in their every 
 look and demeanour, were certainly very grand 
 and imposing. Alas for this unfortunate 
 * Title of nobility. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 115 
 
 prince ! for I believe liim, from liis great age, 
 to be the same who, some twenty years after 
 our introduction, lost even this semblance of 
 power, and became an exile from his throne^ 
 being the leader in that terrible mutiny amongst 
 the Company's sepoys in 1857. 
 
 But to resume. My route from Delhi to 
 Simla, our sanitary station on the Himalayas, 
 was full of interest ; the beauty of the scene, 
 joined to the fine bracing air as I ascended the 
 hills, made me feel quite another man. The 
 languor of the plains, in the feeling caused by 
 the excessive heat, was forgotten in the enjoy- 
 ment of a better climate. 
 
 Simla, as may be supposed, is a very gay 
 place ; hither the residents in the plains resort 
 during the hot seasons, from the Viceroy down- 
 wards ; and agreeable parties take place every 
 evening, when dancing and other amusements 
 are kept up until a late hour. The ladies 
 of sober age ride about the vicinity of the 
 station, while others keep moving about in 
 their tomjohns, a sort of sedan-chair carried on 
 men's shoulders ; but what a little startled me 
 vas, young ladies galloping their goants, or 
 hill ponies, on the narrow roads out on the 
 sides of the mountains, some of them barely 
 more than three-and-a-half feet wide, on one 
 
 I 2 
 
116 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 side a beetling cliff, hundreds of feet liigh, 
 beneath them ; depths of sheer descents, called 
 cuds, five hundred or a thousand feet down, 
 where the least trip or unsteadiness of the 
 pony must result in hurhng them to destruction. 
 However, as there is nothing in these cases 
 like being used to things, so these extremely 
 long-backed ponies, with very short legs, never, 
 or very seldom, miss their footing; and away 
 the girls go, along those narrow ways, in right 
 good humour, screaming with laughter. 
 
 On my first going on them, I felt a little 
 squeamish, for my Arab did not half like 
 the space beneath, and at one time trembled 
 much ; I, however, encouraged him. He was 
 one of the smallest of his kind, and knew me 
 well, — he had stopped ; but after a time I got 
 him to go on. As turning round, without the 
 chance of going down the cud, was all but 
 impossible, I went on until I came to a turn 
 in the mountain road that at length brought 
 me to Simla. I met some ladies, who were 
 surprised at my venturing on horseback, and 
 begged I would not do so again; reminding 
 me of the fate of Major Blundell, of the 11th 
 Light Dragoons; which was this. He was 
 riding along one of those narrow ways, not on 
 a horse, but on a hill pony, when, in a cleft of 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 117 
 
 the mountain, on his right, the head and neck 
 of a large snake showed itself suddenly in front 
 of his pony. The animal, frightened, turned 
 outwards, missed his footing, and went down 
 the fearful precipice full six hundred feet, and 
 was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. The 
 poor major's remains were picked up, mangled 
 in a frightful manner. 
 
 Here I had the pleasure of meeting my old 
 friend. Sir Charles Metcalfe, Lieut. -Governor 
 of the Upper Provinces of this (at that time) 
 remote part of India, sent by the Governor- 
 General to arrange by arbitration some serious 
 differences as to territory between the native 
 princes and the Honourable Company, which 
 were very near leading to a war, had not his 
 great ability and thorough knowledge of the 
 native character prevented it. The active and 
 constant exertions of this great man brought 
 on fever, and he was ordered by his doctors to 
 Simla, to recruit his health. 
 
 Here I also met another friend, before men- 
 tioned, the Baron Hiigell, exploring for native 
 samples of vegetation, which he hoped to meet 
 in abundance upon those mountains. I also 
 met, another traveller. Major Jones, who had 
 been in some parts of South Africa, in which 
 land he had added but little to his stock, for 
 
118 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the study of naturalists in England. He was 
 not at all satisfied with his trip there, saying 
 that for the most part the interior of this part 
 of Africa was a disagreeable, barren waste, full 
 of noxious reptiles, and tribes of people, savage, 
 superstitious, and unnatural to the last degree. 
 The Fans are particularly noted for giving to 
 other tribes their own dead bodies, in exchange 
 for theirs, for the purpose of eating.* They 
 have children as wives at from eight to ten 
 years of age, thereby for the most part de- 
 stroying their powers of becoming mothers. 
 
 In this most agreeable place I remained 
 three weeks, every day enjoying the delightful 
 society of Sir Charles Metcalfe, and dancing 
 with the girls in the evening; and as I was 
 going to fall in love with one of them, I thought 
 it best to continue my travels, which I did 
 immediately. 
 
 Having laid in a good stock of provisions, on 
 a couple of ponies, ammunition, &c., I started, 
 going from eight to twelve miles a day. The 
 road to Hotoo, nearly a hundred miles from 
 Simla, was tolerably good. It was made by 
 the corps of Gorka Pioneers, smart, good little 
 
 * M. De Chaillu, in his book on South Africa, mentions 
 this horrible practice. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 119 
 
 workmen, a hardy race that will da any things 
 from fighting to tiger-hunting. 
 
 The natives settled here from the plains dis- 
 appeared a few marches from Simla, and I was 
 now amongst the aboriginal inhabitants of these 
 regions. As is usual amongst Highlanders, 
 they appeared a stronger and more athletic 
 race than those I left behind me. They were 
 very civil and obhging, and freely gave me a 
 small space in their huts, during my stay, 
 wherever I happened to put up. Their clothing 
 appeared to be a wrapper, made of a sort of 
 thick Welsh flannel, but manufactured by 
 themselves ; a cap on their heads of the same 
 material, and sandalled shoes, or slippers. 
 Males and females wore much the same 
 clothing. Their customs in married life are 
 somewhat curious ; and the great fall of snow 
 and the severity of the climate sometimes 
 completely isolate them from communication 
 with neighbouring districts ; so they collect a 
 quantity of food during the summer months, 
 for winter store ; but in the higher land they 
 are often shut up so long that starvation stares 
 them in the face. 
 
 Tracts of table-land, more or less extensive, 
 are covered in the season with vegetation, which 
 must last all the year round ; as it is on this 
 
120 SOME EECOLLEOTIONS IN THE 
 
 land they have their villages, under a head 
 man, or Thakoor, a sort of feudal chief, inde- 
 pendent of all around him. The uncertainty 
 of feeding the inhabitants of any one of these 
 places is so great, that it obliges them not to 
 increase or multiply; so they have, from a 
 remote period, been accustomed to a species of 
 polygamy totally different from what that means 
 in other parts of the East. It is this. The females 
 have from two or three up to seven husbands 
 each. These husbands may be nearly related, 
 even be brothers. They have each a separate 
 hut, and one for a certain time remains at home, 
 while the others are employed in cultivating 
 their plots of ground or other work, principally 
 in gathering fuel for the winter. The children 
 born of this wife are recognized as near rela- 
 tions to all the husbands. They all appeared 
 quite satisfied with each other, neither did 
 there appear the least jealousy or disquiet 
 among them. Many people may think, from 
 this extraordinary arrangement, that they are 
 debauched and profligate. They are not at all 
 so, their habits appearing entirely owing to the 
 circumstances in which they are placed. The 
 mothers are kind and most affectionate to their 
 children, who are healthy and interesting in 
 appearance ; and I have often looked at them. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 121 
 
 watching the repose of a child arrived at the 
 age of two years or so. These they place on a 
 small mossy bank, under a little stream of 
 water, which runs through a hollow stick, or 
 bamboo, gently on the brow of the child. This, 
 they told me, strengthens the head, in order to 
 endure the severity of the cold winter. 
 
 My time was usually passed in shooting- 
 excursions, where I found pheasants or other 
 birds, and deer tolerably plentiful, and, if ac- 
 cessible to get, I generally remained a few days, 
 giving, for the most part, what I got to the 
 people amongst whom I lived. As I was fur- 
 nished with my tackle, book of flies, and port- 
 able rod, I often fished in the pools and got a kind 
 of trout, and small. but good eels and dace, 
 which the natives like better than any other food. 
 
 In some of the very deep pools they some- 
 times succeed in catching a very large fish, and 
 from a specimen I saw, I conceived it was 
 something of the sturgeon tribe.* These are 
 invariably smoked, and preserved for winter fare. 
 
 Throughout my stay with those civil, and I 
 may say, simple hill tribes, I saw nothing of 
 impropriety at any time in their conduct. 
 
 On arriving at Hotoo, I found myself in the 
 
 * The m^shir are much of the same kind of fish, caught 
 in the Ganges, near these mountains. 
 
122 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 vicinity of eternal snow, and the chill at night 
 was so great, that I had a fire at the entrance 
 of my hut, which was kept up by one of the 
 hill-men, to whom I gave a small gratuity in 
 the morning : without this fire my four blankets 
 would have been insufficient to prevent suffer- 
 ing from cold. 
 
 The small brown, and a kind of white phea- 
 sant smaller still, I found in tolerable abundance ; 
 but my chief aim was to obtain the superb blue- 
 and-golden pheasant called the ManauL* This 
 bird was very shy, and, from the localities they 
 inhabit, difficult to approach ; their food being 
 a sort of mulberry in the lower hills during 
 winter, and a berry growing on dwarfed shrubs 
 on the snowy heights in summer, resembling 
 the wild sloe. 
 
 My two hill-men said, the only way I could 
 possibly succeed in getting a shot at them, was 
 by ascending a height of about three thousand 
 feet and there concealing myself until daylight : 
 this was to be done by pushing on my way up 
 soon after midnight, to be in time for the 
 birds. My hill-men accompanied me with blan- 
 kets and some refi:'eshment, and, after a very 
 fatiguing and often difficult march, we arrived 
 at the desired locality. 
 
 * A name appertaining to royalty. 
 
LIFE or LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 123 
 
 The cold was great, but a nip of brandy 
 made us feel somewhat comfortable. My men 
 excavated with their forked poles a hole 
 for me to lie in, against the wind blowing 
 rather fresh from the S.E. As the scent of the 
 Manaul is very keen, and should they suspect 
 anything they would not approach their favour- 
 ite food, which lay in plenty on the thick shrub 
 about me, I waited here more than an hour, 
 gun in hand, and blanket around me ; the men 
 had retired to a good distance below. 
 
 Daylight had not long appeared, when I heard 
 a heavy whir of wings. They were what I 
 wanted, and as two of them flew within thirty 
 yards from me, I fired, with difficulty using 
 my hand, being nearly chilled with cold ; down 
 dropped one, the other was hit, yet not 
 enough to bring him down close, but he fell 
 near enough for my men to see and find him. 
 It was the male bird, and the finest specimen 
 possible; in full plumage and of exquisite beauty, 
 the size of nearly a full-grown peacock. The 
 one that fell near me was the female, but neither 
 in size or beauty like the male. I felt proud 
 of my prize, resolving to preserve the skin. 
 It was the first I had ever seen, and few Euro- 
 peans at the time had seen them. In these 
 days, however, they are occasionally met with 
 
124 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 preserved in museums, in all their gorgeous 
 beauty. 
 
 As I had, ^TO tern., finished preserving the 
 skin of this celebrated bird, I began to retrace 
 my way back to Simla, and as a few marches 
 brought me to the vicinity of all the beauty of 
 these regions, I was resolved to give up sport 
 of all kind, and resign myself to the contem- 
 plation of them, and to put down all I could 
 relative to their manifold excellence, which 
 would indeed require one more capable than 
 myself to express in any manner whatever. 
 
 Let those who love to contemplate the sub- 
 limity and grandeur of Nature, stand on the 
 summit of one of those mountains and look 
 around at the magnificent prospect revealed to 
 them. The scene itself fills the mind with awe 
 and wonder, and for a time all else but their 
 contemplation is forgotten, as one gazes on the 
 gigantic precipices, the valleys running down 
 from them so deep that they become lost in 
 their profundity to observation, and so grotesque 
 are sometimes the appearances around, and so 
 still, that one may fancy he sees the mighty 
 ruins of a depopulated world. Then, again, 
 the waterfall, more or less extensive, comes 
 thundering in mighty grandeur jfrom above, 
 and gradually disappears in the forest below. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 125 
 
 Many of the highest peaks,* covered with 
 eternal snow, raise their heads even above 
 the passing clouds to heaven, even as it 
 is imaged in fabled history the Titans did of 
 old. 
 
 The feeling of the spectator, I think, is no 
 holiday one. It is not the place for an every- 
 day man, who sets out on his tour to this part 
 of the world to shoot down everything he 
 fancies, and then, when tired, to see what 
 comforts he can get in the way of food and 
 rest, to gratify the appetites of the inner man. 
 The wonders around me impressed my mind 
 with a feeling somewhat related to the ever- 
 lasting powers of the Great Eternal. 
 
 The murmuring sound of the huge dark 
 pines ;t the rhododendrons, in their bright pink 
 flowers of enormous size; the palm, the fern, 
 the myrtle, and other flowering trees and shrubs, 
 all on a grand scale, were marvellously beau^ 
 tiful. Then, again, as you proceeded, villages 
 around, on isolated pieces of table-land, with 
 
 * With mj sextant I attempted to take the height of the 
 highest peak, aided with an artificial horizon, and found it 
 about 30,000 feet above the plains. 
 
 t Some of those pines are from 30 to 45 feet in circum- 
 ference, and, could they be brought to the plains, would 
 realise a large fortune. 
 
126 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 dark-green cypresses marking the last resting- 
 place of the dead. 
 
 On another occasion I waited till the sun 
 had set, and then, throned in the western sky, 
 the soft and silver moon rose in all its bright- 
 ness, entirely changing the scene, and lighting 
 up with magical effect the shadows thrown 
 around, even unto the eastern sky, which it 
 made appear in lurid flame, at times bursting 
 on the sight, until a passing cloud darkened 
 the evening luminary ; then the monkey tribe 
 and other animals ceased their hum, and, with 
 the feathered race, retired to their repose ; and 
 as the night drew on, this unsurpassed scenery 
 gradually faded from my view. 
 
 Thus I only enter into a hasty description 
 of some of the sights of the Himalayas. My 
 time of leave was expiring, and it was necessary 
 to be present with my regiment before the next 
 muster- day. I accordingly started on horse- 
 back for Simla, but was very often obhged to 
 dismount and walk, or rather scramble, up or 
 down heights or depths, having returned in a 
 different direction to the one we came up by ; 
 one of my hill-men assisting me, the other man 
 helping my little active Arab, which I nearly 
 lost, he having missed his footing in a steep 
 descent, and rolled down about thirty feet, but 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 127 
 
 was luckily brought up by a thick patch of 
 bushes, where the intelligent animal lay still 
 until I and the two hill-men reached him. We 
 then ascended by another path. The horse 
 escaped with some bruises ; limbs all right ; 
 bridle and saddle broken, and the man's arm 
 dislocated in trying to hold him on from 
 falling. 
 
 Thus we journeyed through continued fine 
 and ever-varying scenery everywhere around 
 us, sometimes through difficult and dangerous 
 ways. In five days we again made the road to 
 Simla, and proceeded with more comfort on 
 our way ; in another week we descried this 
 rapidly-rising and beautiful settlement, where 
 my old friend awaited me, cordially wishing 
 me joy on my return in good health and 
 spirits, and escorting me to his kind and com- 
 fortable home. 
 
 In this uncertain world, nothing, I think, 
 can well be more happ}'- than the life people 
 lead at Simla. It is real luxury indeed, com- 
 pared to that luxuriance and indolence of life 
 at Calcutta, the latter habit caused by the 
 intense heat. Every appliance that the native 
 servant can bring to bear to relieve the oppres- 
 sion felt by Europeans is done there for their 
 comfort, but it too often falls short to alleviate 
 
128 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the sufferings of tlie invalid or the dehcate, who 
 so often fall victims to it. 
 
 At Simla the old Indian is blessed with a 
 climate in temperature equal, if not in many- 
 cases superior to, England, coupled with the 
 great beauty of an Eastern clime. The walk 
 before breakfast is delightful, from the air of 
 the neighbouring mountains, and one returns 
 to breakfast with an English relish for it. The 
 laugh of pretty and amiable women is delight- 
 ful; and after ample justice is done to a 
 breakfast partaking of all the good things of 
 ,the East and the West, the amusement and 
 occupation for the day are discussed. Some 
 remain, and read the latest publications to the 
 ladies ; others betake themselves to billiards ; 
 while others take the gun to seek after par- 
 tridge or quail, the last of which are abundant 
 about the gardens and plantations. The ladies 
 often feel sorry for their friends not being 
 present to enjoy their happiness, and say, 
 " Poor Mrs. So-and-so ! how happy she would 
 be among us, and what a relief it would prove 
 to her poor delicate husband, wearied out with 
 his troublesome duties on the Plains ! But it 
 will be their turn to be up here next year." 
 
 People in England little understand why old 
 Indians enjoy each other's society so much 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 129 
 
 when at home, and talk so much of the East. To 
 me, as one of them, I think it extremely natural 
 that they should be glad to meet, and talk 
 over the many happy days they have spent 
 there, so far away from friends and home. Yes, 
 all the sterling good feeling possessed by the 
 English character is in the East displayed to 
 the best advantage. We there all know each 
 other, and by every means in our power render 
 mutual kindness. It is there often the only 
 comfort we have on meeting together in sta- 
 tions burthened with intense heat, and but too 
 often with hot suffocating winds, which, whirl- 
 ing and circling round, blow so terrific, that 
 the house or bungalow you reside in is in part 
 blown down, or unroofed ; but at hill stations, 
 or at delightful Simla, we have a superior 
 climate, enjoyable in every sense of the word, 
 together with nearly all the good things of the 
 East, and the substantial comforts of Europe ; 
 the fruits surpassing in flavour those in the 
 latter part of the globe ; for instance, the mango, 
 the pine apple, the plantain, the pomegranate, 
 the custard apple, &c. Then, too, we have 
 grown here delicious grapes, such as at home. 
 In living we conform more to the way there, 
 than we can conveniently do in the plains ; we 
 stiU ask our friend to take wine hej'e, instead 
 
 K 
 
130 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 of beer, whicli latter we find so strengthening 
 below ; we have the curious and fairy scene of 
 fire-flies, as in the plains, at evening time ; they 
 flit about the tall dark branches of the pine, 
 lighting up one spot for a short time, then ofi* 
 in a perfect cloud to another, and as night 
 closes, resting on some favoured spot, and so 
 disappear until the evening of the following 
 day. 
 
 Those interesting little creatures are per- 
 fectly harmless, neither do they plague you, 
 like other numerous insect tribes,* which in the 
 plains are so tormenting, particularly when 
 your candles are lit, which without protection 
 are covered with flying ants, and put out by 
 their slaying themselves by hundreds. 
 
 The fire-fly is less in size than our common 
 black fly, and loses in great part its luminous 
 appearance when looked at in the hand ; its 
 phosphoric -power ceases until it regains its 
 freedom, when it becomes as usual a fire-fly. 
 
 The tout ensemble of Simla and its vicinity 
 
 * It has often surprised me that naturalists have not 
 accounted how it happens that the white ant, which is 
 a small, soft insect, can, by vast numbers, under the 
 cover of earth conveyed upwards by them, destroy every- 
 thing in their way but metal. I had thirty books destroyed 
 in four hours. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 131 
 
 brought me back to England. It reminded me 
 of tlie fine park scenery round Bridge Castle, 
 and other old places at home, with its open 
 and impressive landscape; aided by the great 
 additional grandeur of the lofty trees of various 
 kinds, and shades surrounding, or occupying 
 the ground in groups at distant glades : then 
 in the distance again, but only through a glass, 
 the far off forest, sloping off towards the 
 plains, was sublime. On riding about, I would 
 sometimes fancy that gold and green were the 
 livery of nature. Throughout the year chry- 
 santhemums of great beauty, and other flowers 
 almost constantly blooming, and the white 
 crocus, occasionally succeeded by the blue, in 
 all their simplicity ; roses, too, were everywhere 
 in blossom ; but I missed the sweet- smelling, 
 lovely cabbage-rose of England, and the moss- 
 rose, so exquisite, was unknown. Jessamine on 
 a large scale was here, but not with its Euro- 
 pean fragrance ; the myrtle, gigantic and 
 abundant. 
 
 Some recent settlers have brought out with 
 them from England flower seeds of various 
 kinds ; amongst those now grown are the 
 carnation and mignonette. They seemed to 
 thrive, but are yet in their infancy ; time, how- 
 ever, and culture, will no doubt produce them 
 
 K 2 
 
132 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 in perfection, as they have succeeded in doing 
 with other productions of plants and seeds 
 of Europe in this favoured chmate. 
 
 Those regions possess also, as well as the 
 plains, a full share of beautiful birds, some 
 with white bodies and light blue wings, with 
 bands of a dark hue ; green paroquets in abun- 
 dance, rushing about with sharp cries ; the 
 pretty yellow and black mangoo-bird ; doves, 
 cooing their love all day long, with the bulbul,* 
 and, indeed, an endless variety. 
 
 On the ground, or up the trees, grey squir- 
 rels chased each other about without fear, and 
 in their eagerness to catch each other, springing 
 from bough to bough, sometimes missing their 
 hold and tumbling downward, but always saving 
 themselves by catching some foliage in their 
 descent. 
 
 The native servants who accompanied us to 
 the hills did not much relish the cold of the 
 night, and preferred the plains ; they all brought 
 with them curry, and prepared their rice as 
 usual. How pretty many of the Hindoo girls 
 look, when going to or returning from the 
 wells with water ! They all go in file, that is, 
 all in a row, following their leader, with their 
 
 * Indian nightingale. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 133 
 
 water chatty or jug poised on their heads, as- 
 cending or descending the slopes of the path- 
 way, their interesting figures moving tranquilly 
 along, chatting or often chaunting their village 
 love-ditty. 
 
134 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 1835. 
 
 AFTER a week's residence here, I was on the 
 point of starting for mj regiment, when I 
 received a letter from Colonel Oglander, to say 
 that I had been promoted and had a year's 
 leave granted me, in order to return to 
 England. 
 
 I had plenty of time to do what I had long 
 wished for, and that was, to visit the Punjaub, 
 go to Lahore, the capital, and see the lion of 
 the North, the great Runjeet Singh, our ally. 
 I had become acquainted with two Sindars, 
 officers of rank in this sovereign's service, and 
 to my request, that I might be permitted to 
 join them on their way to Lahore, they cour- 
 teously consented. A couple of days were 
 enough to make my arrangements, and I left 
 Simla with something like sorrow, for every- 
 thing there agreed with my wishes to become 
 a settler in those delightful hills. I parted with 
 my kind friend, and all others who were kind to 
 me, including Lady Sale, who on the death of 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 135 
 
 her gallant husband was determined to end her 
 days here. 
 
 We crossed the Sutlej river, which divided 
 the Punjaub from our possessions, on rafts, 
 constructed for the purpose, and saw good 
 cultivation on its banks, but excepting there, a 
 sandy, and with few exceptions, a barren 
 country around. We travelled on horseback, 
 at the rate of about twelve or fifteen miles a 
 day, starting at about two every morning, for 
 the plains here are sometimes as hot as they 
 are in India proper. 
 
 We met, on our way, hill forts, apparently 
 well garrisoned with Sikh soldiers. Our pro- 
 visions were carried by tattoos, or baggage- 
 ponies, an animal that seems never tired ; the 
 Sikh officers having curry stuff, and maize, 
 which their attendants made into chupaties, or 
 cakes ; rice, and the small farm-fowls of the 
 country they got at every village. These we 
 bought at a dozen for a rupee, the villagers 
 seldom taking payment from the officers. 
 
 The Sikhs* seem by no means so strict in 
 their customs as the Hindoos; I believe, as 
 soldiers particularly, they can eat fish and 
 
 * In appearance and strength they are far superior to the 
 Hindoos. 
 
136 SOME EECOLLECTIOXS IN THE 
 
 flesh as they like, only paying their goorro, or 
 priest, a small recompense on confession. 
 
 I had with me only coffee, sugar, and a few 
 biscuitfiij living principally, as the others did, on 
 curry and rice, which was always excellent. 
 One of my fellow-travellers spoke a little 
 English, the other officer French, which, with 
 the aid of Hindoostani, made our time pass 
 well enough. Both were intelligent and merry 
 fellows ; they recounted to me some clever and 
 indeed wonderfully skilful acts of their prince, 
 whom they compared, in his mihtary successes, 
 to the great JSTapoleon, and saying that they 
 and the whole of his army would be but too 
 happy to lose their lives in his service. 
 
 As yet the scenery in this land was not equal 
 at all to what I left behind me ; but still there 
 w^ere some very good prospects occasionally, 
 and the cultivation of maize was abundant. 
 After several days' journey we came to some 
 very rapid streams, where, even at the fords, 
 three to four feet deep, our horses found it 
 most difficult to keep their feet. Many of 
 those rapid streams feed the great fine rivers 
 of this country, which our army, in 1838, found 
 it so difficult to cross on their way to Afghan- 
 istan, and in which we lost many men and 
 horses. There were not many large towns on 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 137 
 
 our route, but all showed a state of defence, 
 with more or less soldiers. It was thus Run- 
 jeet Singh provisioned his army, and when called 
 upon to unite his forces, they generally assem- 
 bled nearest the enemy to be attacked, and, 
 joined by their chief and the European officers, 
 manoeuvred them for a time more or less, as 
 the emergency required. In this way, and by 
 natural military tact and knowledge, this great 
 Indian chief was enabled to conquer and rule 
 with energy a mighty kingdom ; resembling 
 the great master of Europe in one particular 
 — the commencing his career from a humble 
 station in life. 
 
 The peasantry appeared to have a general 
 respect and fear of his name. Marauders, 
 when caught plundering them, were imme- 
 diately punished, and sometimes hung. The 
 industrious and well-behaved were encouraged, 
 and always rewarded when deserving of it ; 
 neither were the Sikh soldiers permitted to 
 take anything from them without payment, 
 excepting in small matters of vegetables and 
 fruit,* which were generally given to them volun- 
 tarily. The rice grounds were not anything 
 like so numerous as in most parts of India, but 
 
 * For everything else they oiFered payment. 
 
138 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 over large tracts of country were grown millet 
 and Indian corn. 
 
 We halted for a day or two occasionally, for the 
 purpose of having shooting excursions. Quail 
 we found sometimes in abundance, together with 
 the sand grouse : this bird is rather less than 
 a partridge, but better eating. They are pretty 
 birds, of various dark and light hues, and are 
 now getting well known ; not so the spur fowl, 
 a dark-brown mottled bird less than a grouse, 
 with three sharp spurs on one leg, and four on 
 the other. They are only found in certain tracts 
 of dense cover, and so difficult to be made rise 
 without dogs, that if they cannot get out of 
 the way by swift running, will almost allow you 
 to tread on them. They and quail are the most 
 delicate eating birds in the East, except per- 
 haps florican. This bird is now, . I suppose, 
 well-known ; it is beautiful, but rather stupid ; 
 after long flights it alights in grass, and is put 
 up easily within shot. They vary in size and 
 colour ; light brown, speckled, dark, the largest ; 
 black, with white streaks, the smallest, and of 
 bustard shape, of the size of hen pheasants, 
 though some are much smaller. 
 
 We sometimes came on small antelope not 
 much larger than a hare, which, when dressed 
 and stufied with fine herbs by the servants of 
 
LIFE or LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 139 
 
 the Sikh officers, were excellent. We some- 
 times saw troops of jackals scouring over the 
 plains, and occasionally the pretty little red and 
 black fox : these we hunted with some dogs of 
 all kinds, and often killed after a run of ten or 
 a dozen miles. A wolf was now and then seen, 
 darker in hue than the usual kind. The Sikhs 
 have some curious traditions regarding those 
 animals, and stated that killing them on cer- 
 tain days was very unlucky. A curious sort 
 of wild hog was brought in to us one day, he 
 was of a dusky red colour, with a large muzzle 
 for a pig, and great bumps upon his head. 
 The natives had trapped him, and appeared to 
 consider his capture as quite an exploit; the 
 ugly brute being very pugnacious, and, if at- 
 tacked, turning at once on its opponents, and 
 with its sharp tusks, two on each side of the 
 jaw, lacerating their legs, inflicting severe 
 wounds. This animal is much smaller and 
 more active than its tribe ; it is of sohtary 
 habits, living on roots, principally of an aro- 
 matic kind, in deep jungle, and never seen in 
 herds. 
 
 We had some steaks cut from it, but the 
 taste was so musky, that we did not rehsh it ; 
 my Hindoo servants, however, were not so nice, 
 for they soon disposed of the flesh in curries, 
 
140 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 wliich ate better, but still had a disagreeable 
 flavour. Another day, the natives brought to 
 us a very large armadillo ; in shape it was 
 more like a huge lizard than a hog, was up- 
 wards of two feet in length and eight inches in 
 breadth, covered with tortoise-shell scales of 
 a dusky white colour. His captors saw a pile 
 of earth moving, poked it with their sticks, and 
 felt the animal below, under a heap of red ants ; 
 he was on his back, and nearly motionless when 
 captured. This extraordinary animal, on finding 
 an ant-heap, his favourite food, forces his way 
 underneath ; then, turning himself on his back, 
 devours the ants as they attack him, until 
 his appetite is satisfied. This one appeared 
 to have either gorged himself into a state of 
 stupor, or else the ants had succeeded in sting- 
 ing him nearly to death, for they appeared to 
 have entered his body by a small fracture in 
 one of the joints of his shell, and thus revenged 
 themselves upon their enemy. I had some 
 difficulty in getting the body out, so as not to 
 injure its shape; this was accomplished after 
 some time, and the shell entire was a capital 
 specimen of its kind. 
 
 I had heard so much of the dexterity of the 
 Sikhs on horseback, that I mentioned my 
 desire to witness it to my fellow-travellers, and 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 141 
 
 they at once kindly agreed to show me some on 
 the next halting-day. When this came, they 
 had their pretty Arabs made ready for the oc- 
 casion. Their first exploit was riding at the 
 ring, as with us, but with far more speed ; at a 
 ring not much larger than an eyeglass, which 
 they always carried off on their spears. They 
 then tied a mango, suspended from a tree, biting 
 a piece of it out with their teeth, when passing 
 it at speed. Then they stuck pegs in the 
 ground somewhat firmly ; these they succeeded 
 in raising with the spear, their person bent 
 down, and spears grasped in the centre, hori- 
 zontally, horse in full gallop. 
 
 Then they betook themselves to their match- 
 locks — weapons splendidly carved and gilded; 
 setting bottles down, at which they rode at 
 full speed, and when within about fifty yards 
 fired at and broke, not missing once in six 
 discharges. Let the reader think how difficult 
 this was to do : the match brought down by a 
 trigger to an aperture in the breech communi- 
 cating with the charge, and, with a single ball, 
 seldom missing the object fired at. 
 
 But their last and still more wonderful feat 
 was performed by an instrument, in shape like 
 a quoit, which they generally carry in their 
 head-dress ; but it is twice as large, and made 
 
142 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IX THE 
 
 tliinner, the outer edge sharpened, keen as 
 their swords. A palanquin-pad was placed on 
 an upright bamboo stick, the height of a man 
 on horseback. The performer then came for- 
 ward, placing this singular weapon on the 
 fore-finger of his left hand, spinning it round ; 
 and, when reaching a certain velocity, seizing 
 it with the finger and thumb of his right hand ; 
 and hurling it at the pad, which it cut in two 
 parts, the instrument twirling back and falling 
 near the thrower : this also was done on horse- 
 back, but at rest, the distance about thirty-five 
 yards. This put me in mind of what I saw 
 done with the boomerang, in Australia, in other 
 days, now no doubt well known. This weapon 
 the Australian threw with great accuracy at 
 his adversary, and so contrived was it as to 
 come bounding back to the thrower. The quoit 
 afiair, however, of the Sikh officer was by far 
 the most surprising and expert. 
 
 The Irregular Horse, which, as already men- 
 tioned, I had charge of in the Deccan, were 
 nearly all very active, and well versed in the 
 system of attack and defence ; for instance, they 
 used to ride at each other at speed, using their 
 small rope bridles only, and quick as thought 
 cut them asunder. This puts me in mind of 
 the duel of the late Sir Thomas Dallas of other 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 143 
 
 days, wlio upon hearing that the native chiefs 
 of Hyderabad had declared they would meet 
 any British officer on horseback singly, accepted 
 the challenge, and was immediately answered 
 by several of them. One, however, was selected. 
 The morning of the fight was fixed upon ; swords 
 only were to be used, in which Sir Thomas was 
 singularly expert. On the day fixed a number 
 of British officers, including the celebrated Sir 
 John Malcolm, assembled, with a host of native 
 chiefs, on the ground appointed. The com- 
 batants approached each other at about three- 
 quarter speed, and commenced by numerous 
 feints to deceive each other in attack. They were 
 both armed with the peculiar scimitar used by 
 Mussulman horsemen, of which Sir Thomas 
 was as much master as was his skilful opponent. 
 At the close of an attack by the latter, Sir 
 Thomas threw forward the chiefs horse, slightly 
 wounding his bridle hand ; but in this critical 
 moment the chief succeeded in cutting in two 
 Sir Thomas's bridle, which left him defenceless, 
 with the exception of his holster pistol, which in 
 the excitement of the moment he at once fired, 
 and again wounded the chief. Thus ended this 
 remarkable single combat ; so like the chivalry 
 of the olden times. It appeared afterwards 
 that an objection was made to Sir Thomas 
 
144 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 using fire-arms, but otliars were of opinion 
 that the chief acted first unfairly;, in cutting the 
 gallant knight's horse's bridle. Be this as it may, 
 there was not much harm done, as the wounds 
 of the chief were not of so serious a character 
 as to prevent his perfect restoration to health. 
 
 Some of my Irregular Horse, all Mus- 
 sulmen, were exceedingly clever with their 
 favourite weapon, the scimitar, sharpened to the 
 keenness of a razor. For instance, one of them 
 would remain stationary, holding in his hand a 
 small pad of hair, or feathers, sometimes an 
 orange, while another would approach him at 
 speed ; when close, the pad or orange was 
 hurled at the rider, who invariably cut it in two. 
 In the use of the spear or matchlock, they did 
 very well, but could never for a moment cope 
 in the use of either with the Sikhs. 
 
 I have heard that, in these days, that descrip- 
 tion of cavalry either do not practise those 
 beautiful feats on horseback, or they attend 
 more in feats of arms to the steady and uniform 
 discipline of the sword or spear of our time. 
 However, I may as well mention, that the Kafiirs 
 of Africa are very adroit in the management of 
 their favourite weapon, the assaigais, as I wit- 
 nessed, I think, at Graham's Town ; and their 
 war-dance, previous to beginning, appears to 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 145 
 
 the European, very ludicrous. Two of these 
 warriors approached us to exhibit, assegais in 
 hand ; they were nude, with the exception of a 
 fine grass- worked girdle round their loins, and 
 a kind of cap on their heads of the same 
 material, high, like our grenadier cap, but of 
 the same breadth from top to bottom, which 
 caused it to look very queer. 
 
 They neared each other, raising their legs 
 occasionally and slapping their thighs ; then, 
 suddenly bouncing round, with their backs to 
 each other, appeared to make some degrading 
 signs of contempt, &c. ; they then hopped close 
 to each other, bent down, and rubbed noses of 
 amity. After their dance, they separated, and 
 at about a hundred yards apart, marked, on the 
 ground, two small bushes ; then twirling their 
 assegais upright, they spun them up high in the 
 air, and both weapons came down at the same 
 time, with the points in the centre of the marks. 
 Again, twirling the assegais, but this time 
 round their heads, they threw them forward 
 into the trunk of trees which they had pre- 
 viously marked; first at fifty yards, then at 
 a hundred, and last of all at one hundred and 
 fifty yards distance, never once missing the 
 mark. After this, they again had their war 
 dance, but of a kind apparently of more triumph 
 
146 SOME JRECOLLEOTIONS IN THE 
 
 than wlien tliey began. "We gave them a pre- 
 sent, which they seemed to expect ; and no 
 doubt they were practised hands. 
 
 In relating the above exploits to my fellow- 
 travellers in other parts of the world, they 
 have been highly amused, as well as with 
 my account of different incidents that I had 
 known, relative to military matters in European 
 warfare ; and such was the good humour and 
 agreeable bearing of my companions, and our 
 days often passed so quickly, that we neared the 
 completion of our journey without feeling in the 
 least desirous to part, but rather the contrary. 
 
 A few days before reaching Lahore, we visited 
 a large estabhshment for the manufacture of 
 sugar, a very low-roofed building in the 
 midst of extensive plantations of sugar-cane. 
 The sugar-cane when ripe is cut down and 
 crushed by means of a very simple process, 
 something like what I saw in Hindostan, but on 
 a more massive scale and improved principle. In 
 several compartments round the building were 
 large square stones, j&xed in the ground, and 
 hollowed within, three to four feet deep, and so 
 constructed as to admit a large piece, or rather 
 beam, of very hard rounded wood, at the same 
 time leaving space in the cavity sufficient to 
 contain a certain quantity of sugar-cane cut to 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 147 
 
 the required size. To the upright part of the 
 timber outside is affixed a rope, to which are 
 yoked two oxen, who work it round, thereby 
 crushing the cane placed therein. The juice 
 flows through an aperture in the socket, to a 
 trough running into an underground passage, 
 and thence to a large earthen boiler, under 
 which a fire is kept burning. When the sugar 
 is sufficiently boiled, it is drawn into another 
 vessel, where, before growing cold, it is cut into 
 pieces of the size required for use.* 
 
 We at length arrived at early morning in the 
 vicinity of Lahore, and as daylight appeared 
 were agreeably surprised with the scene which 
 burst upon our view. Far as the eye could 
 reach, on the ample space around, were various 
 groups and lines of the troops of Runjeet 
 Singh, performing their exercises : some ac- 
 cording to their own peculiar mode, others 
 again appearing to drill after the European 
 style of tactics, under the superintendence of 
 French officers ; artillery occasionally scouring 
 over the plain, halting, giving fire, then oif in 
 another direction. 
 
 * Irrigation is carried on as it is in other parts of the 
 East, and water raised by pulleys, either from deep wells, or 
 retained for use, by large tanks of water, in valleys, sustained 
 by stroDg-built bunds, or banks of earth or masonry. 
 
 L 2 
 
148 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 It was yet early, and the sun just peep- 
 ing in its glory over the lofty walls of Lahore, 
 gave to view this extensive town, fortified by 
 walls, generally in the usual native way; but some 
 advanced work showed the skiU of the Euro- 
 pean system, with cannon thereon, ready for 
 any emergency. On drawing nearer, this place 
 put me very much in mind, with its impressive 
 scenery, of Hydrabad, in the Deccan, which in 
 my time was very warlike in appearance, and 
 in attitude more so, from its armed walls and 
 imposing soldiers, ever bearing matchlock, 
 tulwar, and dagger, and ever ready to fight. 
 The sun rose, brilliant in dazzling whiteness, 
 pouring his light through the crenelated open- 
 ings of the fortress ; and as we continued to 
 gaze on this beautiful and imposing scene, a 
 salvo of cannon of large calibre was fired in 
 the distance, and soon after appeared some 
 horsemen at a gallop, riding along the lines of 
 soldiers. But who is that slight horseman at 
 their head, on the beautiful milk-white steed ? 
 It is the sovereign — the *' Lion of the Punjaub" 
 — the justly-celebrated Runjeet Singh, in- 
 specting his troops. 
 
 My companions, this morning, turned out in 
 their uniforms — a padded tunic of fine dark 
 cotton, with a silver-chain cuirass fastened 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 149 
 
 thereon, a silver helmet, red trowsers and 
 boots, and armed with sword and spear. I had 
 on mj old embroidered green frock-coat and 
 gold-lace forage cap, my usual dress when in 
 charge of my horsemen at Hydrabad. 
 
 In making his circuit, Runjeet Singh passed 
 near enough for us to bend to our saddle-bows, 
 the officers at the same time lowering their 
 spears. The salute was acknowledged, and the 
 chief passed to other parts of the j&eld. As 
 my fellow-travellers and I proceeded to the 
 capital, we were met by many acquaintances of 
 theirs, and greeted on a safe return home. 
 Some old friends accompanied us to Lahore, 
 and we mutually told the news of passing 
 events to each other. At length we entered 
 one of the principal gates, strongly built, and 
 guarded by native soldiers armed with French 
 muskets, and habited something like our native 
 troops in India, but in place of red cloth had 
 quilted white cotton jackets, made after the 
 French pattern. They had black cross-belts 
 and caps, in the Sikh fashion. 
 
 At this time the general-in-chief of Eunjeet 
 Singh was away. This officer was General 
 Alard. He was much distinguished under the 
 Emperor Napoleon, and had rendered im- 
 portant service to his present sovereign. In 
 
150 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 his absence lie was succeeded by General 
 Ventura, also distinguished under Napoleon. 
 There were other veteran officers, both from 
 the French and Italian armies of the late 
 European war, who held command of brigades 
 and regiments. They all spoke English, and 
 the language of this country fluently. 
 
 We proceeded through the town, passing 
 many well-built houses, and observed the streets 
 better and much cleaner than generally met 
 with in eastern countries. We stopped at the 
 entrance of a large building, something native 
 as well as European in fashion, and were met 
 by the servants of the house, who seemed 
 delighted at their master's return. On dis- 
 mounting, we were ushered in, and instantly 
 served with a cup of good hot coffee, cakes, 
 and some excellent d:^ed meat, in slices; a 
 small, sweet, native liquor was added thereto ; 
 then a cigar was smoked, and then we were 
 shown our apartments. They were of the 
 usual kind — that is, large and open, lofty and 
 well ventilated. After a good bath, I enjoyed 
 rest and sleep until noon, when I prepared for 
 dinner at two o'clock. 
 
 At the time appointed we assembled, and 
 several other parties who dined together 
 much in European fashion : they were mostly 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 151 
 
 officers of the army. This new custom was 
 introduced by the French officers, with the 
 wish of the sovereign, whose object it was to 
 bring them together, that they might freely 
 converse on professional matters. There was 
 also some ceremony in the order of sitting at 
 table, which was, that those highest in rank 
 should occupy the upper part, whilst the juniors 
 in rank sat at the bottom ; this, I believe, is the 
 invariable custom of a French regiment : the 
 same etiquette is not observed with us. 
 
 I duly sent my address to court, and begged 
 the favour of an interview to pay my respects, 
 which was accorded, on a durbar day, when a 
 levee would be held for all those who had not 
 previously seen his Highness the Maharajah. 
 The appointed day arrived, and, dressed in my 
 green uniform, I accompanied my friends to 
 court. We were led through a long line of 
 officers and courtiers, filling various functions 
 of dignity and importance, nearly all dressed 
 in military fashion, and according to the arm 
 they belonged to ; but all were most picturesque 
 and handsome. Some of the chiefs, in their 
 splendid chain cuirasses of burnished gold, 
 with their brilliant spiked or plumed head- 
 pieces, bore a most chivalrous appearance. 
 There were the European officers, in the 
 
152 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 costume of their rank, and some wearing on 
 their breasts the star of the brave, the far- 
 famed Legion of Honour, which they had 
 gained in many a hard-fought field. I was 
 now before the great chief, in my turn, and on 
 bowing low his Highness returned it, and 
 motioned for me to approach him, when the 
 following conversation passed : — 
 
 Bunjeet Singh. — " You were in the great 
 European war ? " 
 
 " Yes, your Highness." 
 
 " That ribbon on your breast shows you 
 fought well?" 
 
 *' I have been fortunately considered as 
 having done my duty." 
 
 " Where have you served ? '* 
 
 " In Spain, Portugal, Holland, the Nether- 
 lands , and India." 
 
 " Ah ! then you were under a great com- 
 mander, the Duke of Wellington ? " 
 
 " I was." 
 
 *' His army was well trained and very brave, 
 and confident in his great talents ; but I have 
 heard that he much neglected them when peace 
 was established ? " 
 
 I hardly knew how to answer this question. 
 At length I said — 
 
 " At that time there were some very influ- 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 153 
 
 ential parties in England, who wished for a 
 reduction of the army, as it was of great 
 expense to the nation ; to this the government 
 was obliged to agree." 
 
 The Prince (after a slight pause) said, — 
 " England has proved itself one of the greatest 
 of nations. I have always been on friendly 
 terms with that country, and it has ever been 
 kind to me." 
 
 The Rajah, — " Pray permit me to ask you, 
 as a soldier, did your army wish the Emperor 
 Napoleon to be sent into exile, when la fortune 
 de la guerre [with much emphasis] placed him 
 in your power ? " 
 
 This was another difficulty to answer. 
 
 " I am sure they did not ; neither had the 
 army, to the best of my belief, a voice on the 
 subject. The Emperor Napoleon was exiled by 
 a predominant party in the government of the 
 day, who perhaps thought it best to send him 
 to an island well protected ; but I can of myself 
 truly say that the regiment I belonged to 
 looked upon it with a species of horror, but this 
 feeling was only whispered amongst ourselves." 
 
 The sovereign then bowed, and I retired. 
 
 I felt much flattered by the notice his High- 
 ness was pleased to take of me, as I afterwards 
 learned that his questions were by no means of 
 
154 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 an ordinary kind. The prince had heard from 
 my fellow travellers a good account of me, and 
 I thought had formed a better opinion of my 
 experience and knowledge than perhaps I 
 deserved. No doubt great men, being placed in 
 an exalted position, ought to derive information 
 on all subjects from all they chance to have 
 communication with. Eunjeet Singh was ever 
 anxious to learn the policy and character of 
 other nations, as a guide to direct him in his 
 intercourse with them ; and his great sagacity 
 enabled him always to be on friendly terms 
 with England. 
 
 I was greatly struck with the appearance 
 and energetic bearing of this great Eastern 
 chief, who, although below the middle size of 
 his countrymen, yet his person and face, not- 
 withstanding the loss of an eye, were handsome 
 and expressive in a high degree. On returning, 
 my comrades begged me to repeat to them 
 what their chief had said, and then remarked 
 to each other that doubtless his Highness 
 would have been happy to have had me in his 
 service. 
 
 I was treated extremely well during my stay 
 with my Sikh friends, who got up many enter- 
 tainments and amusements common to this 
 country, such as short plays of a comic nature, 
 
LIFE or LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 155 
 
 and sword fights, all in good temper. Their 
 music is better far than that of Hindostan, and 
 the female dance more lively, and of a more 
 moral kind. There were Circassians, Georgians, 
 Afghans, and other foreigners, all under sur- 
 veillance of a well-organized, well-paid military 
 police, who knew their business and where- 
 abouts. The Circassians and Georgians I saw 
 were handsome active-looking men, and their 
 eyes most expressive. There were also natives 
 from Cashmere, mostly merchants, with shawls 
 and scarfs of great request in the Punjaub. 
 Every Sikh officer had one, more or less costly, 
 which they either wore Highland fashion, over 
 the shoulder, or round the waist, like a sash, 
 with rich trimmings hanging below, which had 
 a very graceful elSect. In their amusements 
 they had small French roulette- tables, billiards, 
 and games of odd-and-even, during leisure 
 moments. Gambling was prohibited, and if 
 discovered on any occasion, particularly amongst 
 the soldiers, was sometimes severely punished. 
 Some of the chiefs amused themselves with pet 
 quails, the males of which are very pugnacious 
 little birds. They are trained to run about a 
 table and fight each other, the issue of which 
 is looked to with considerable interest. Small 
 bets are made, openly, on the contest; but 
 
156 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I heard that sometimes heavy sums were risked 
 (underhand) by wealthy men of high class. 
 
 The usual sporting parties were often formed, 
 when the spear was used, as with us, in hog- 
 hunting. The dexterity of the Sikh with this 
 weapon was such that, single-handed, he would 
 face a boar, and wound or kill him, without 
 endangering his horse being ripped or wounded. 
 Not so with us : we require aid to draw off 
 ■the attention of the animal when brought to 
 bay, without which many accidents occur, 
 especially to the horses. 
 
 The religious tenets of the Sikhs I cannot 
 say I became well acquainted with. I believe 
 Hindooism, with some difference, is their creed ; 
 but they do not appear to observe the strict- 
 ness or stringent rules of the Brahmin caste, 
 although they do some of their customs. 
 Polygamy is followed, but not so generally 
 practised, except by the great men — the peasant 
 or soldier having only one wife. The suttee, or 
 burning of widows, goes to the extent of con- 
 suming several at the death of the prince they 
 belong to ; this practice does not, however, 
 always follow. 
 
 I was once honoured with the sight of a 
 friend's wife. She was a beautiful Georgian 
 woman, quite as fair as an Italian lady. Her 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 157 
 
 hands and feet were small, and extremely well 
 formed. She wore open-worked jewelled san- 
 dals, and had jewels in profusion on her well- 
 shaped head, and wavy hair of great length 
 about her shoulders. She sang a pretty trou- 
 badour-like song, accompanying it on a species 
 of guitar of a circular form, having many 
 strings. The tone was softer than our own, 
 and perhaps more resembled the small Welsh 
 harp of former days. She was extremely fond 
 of her husband, who spent all his leisure time 
 with her. 
 
 I ventured to ask this interesting creature 
 if she would burn with her husband, in case of 
 his death ; and she answered, without hesita- 
 tion, that she would, for she loved him so much 
 that she could not bear to be separated from 
 him. This couple were truly happy. They 
 appeared, for Eastern people, much above its 
 prejudices. The lady, too, had learned so much 
 of the French language as to make herself 
 easily understood. 
 
 The weather was very fine, sometimes very 
 hot during the day; but the evenings were 
 cool, and the refreshing breezes from the distant 
 lofty mountains rendered the climate at most 
 times temperate. It was now getting on to 
 the latter end of August, and drawing towards 
 
158 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the time when Runjeet Singh's review of his 
 army took place. From distant stations it 
 was already on the march to the capital for 
 that purpose. There was collected a large 
 store of provisions, forage, and herds of cattle, 
 in the vicinity of the camp now forming for the 
 accommodation of the troops ; the different 
 pennons and flags, marking the several arms, 
 whether of cavalry, artillery, or infantry, around, 
 appearing in great numbers, and had a gay and 
 striking effect upon the beholders. The coming 
 review, then, was well worth my seeing, ere I 
 bade a final adieu ' to my hospitable enter- 
 tainers. 
 
 Some time after this, the Sikh army began to 
 appear, and the officers, European and native, 
 fully occupied in guiding them to their ap- 
 pointed stations. The cavalry were mounted 
 on light active horses ; the artillery horses 
 were larger, and stronger built. This arm was 
 peculiarly under the guidance of French officers, 
 and appeared well trained. They had tumbrils 
 and ammunition waggons, well supplied. The 
 well- drilled regular infantry looked extremely 
 well in their white costumes (European fashion), 
 cross-belts, muskets, and bayonets, ghttering 
 in the sun. At length the whole disposable 
 army of the state arrived, numbering some 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 159' 
 
 forty thousand cavalry, artillery, and infantry, 
 stationed in or around Lahore. 
 
 The 2nd of September was the date decided 
 on for the inspection by the sovereign, and it 
 was to occupy three days : first day, the in- 
 spection of infantry; second day, cavalry and 
 artillery ; third day, the whole army was to be 
 formed into close bodies of horse, columns of 
 infantry, and batteries of artillery, to march 
 past the Maharajah, right in front. 
 
 On the day appointed, at two in the morning, 
 the infantry, in columns, formed to order, were 
 assembled, and at dayhght made a very hand- 
 some appearance. Directly the sun rose, a 
 salute of heavy guns announced the approach 
 of his Highness. His flag was mounted high 
 in the centre before his army, to which he 
 galloped with a numerous suite, which I was 
 previously invited to join. Thus we followed 
 the chief along and around the whole of the 
 infantry, which he appeared attentively to in- 
 spect, their respective drums and bands playing 
 his Grand March as he passed. This inspec- 
 tion lasted nearly four hours; the Maharajah 
 then galloped to the centre, and on a discharge 
 of artillery being fired as a signal of dismissal, 
 the whole marched ofi* to their camps. Thus 
 ended the first day. 
 
» 
 
 160 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 On the second day, at the same hour in the 
 morning, the neighing of horses proclaimed the 
 advance of the cavalry, and the noise of wheels 
 that of the artillery — upon the same ground, 
 before occupied by the infantry. As the day 
 broke, a salute, as before, told of the arrival of 
 the chief. The cavalry were on the right, massed 
 in quarter distance columns, and the artillery 
 were massed in batteries to the left. As the 
 Maharajah passed, the trumpets sounded war- 
 like tunes, and I never saw native troops better 
 appointed. The native cavalry of India were 
 not better mounted, and they all looked right 
 well and fit for service. The artillery seemed 
 also in perfect order, but not having that 
 splendid appearance that the European artil- 
 lery has in India ; indeed, I think the latter 
 are the most perfect artillery in the world. 
 This day's inspection was over before noon; 
 and I was not sorry for it, as suddenly the 
 sun burst out from a mass of clouds, upon 
 Qur heads, burning hot. On his Highness 
 retiring, the usual signal was fired, when the 
 cavalry and artillery retired to their respective 
 lines. 
 
 The third and last day was now to come, and 
 we hoped for a cool day, such as we had had, 
 for the most part, previously. 
 
LIFE OF LTEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 161 
 
 Soon after midnight the army began to 
 marcli to their respective posts on the plains 
 around, the officers explaining the orders they 
 had received to their men regarding the bri- 
 gades and regiments of regular infantry, of 
 cavalry, artillery, and light or irregular horse, 
 who were to pass in succession before his High- 
 ness the Maharajah, according to their rank 
 and degree ; and this arrangement was strictly 
 attended to. As the day dawned, the sove- 
 reign was at his post, and a splendid sight 
 indeed was before and around us. There was 
 the whole army present, formed in masses 
 something like three sides of an immense 
 square, the artillery in the centre, extending 
 some miles, all glittering, as the sun arose, 
 in their best dress, and presenting, from 
 their varied costume, one of the grandest and 
 most picturesque sights I had ever seen. The 
 bright steel head-pieces and chain cuirasses 
 of the cavalry, with their spears erect — the 
 infantry, with their bright barrels, shouldered 
 arms, and fixed bayonets — the gorgeously- 
 dressed chiefs and officers, formed a whole 
 not to be surpassed of its kind anywhere. 
 
 The 'day commenced with a salute to the 
 Maharajah of one hundred guns from the 
 centre ; the cavalry then advanced, and, when 
 
 M 
 
162 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 near enougli, wheeled to the left, and on they 
 came in quarter-distance column, right in front 
 of squadrons in which were one hundred men. 
 As they passed the Maharajah, the officers 
 saluted European fashion, to which his High- 
 ness bowed low in return. There passed of 
 this arm something like eight thousand men ; 
 then came on the regular infantry at quarter- 
 distance column, at quick time, with closed 
 ranks, keeping their appointed distance, and 
 well set-up and soldier-like in appearance they 
 were, the trumpets, drums, and bands of both 
 cavalry and infantry giving great effect to the 
 passing scene. At length came the Sikh 
 Matchlock infantry, and, as they passed the 
 presence, gave a shout for the Maharajah, 
 shaking their matchlocks in the air. The light 
 artillery passed on well at a canter ; then came 
 the heavy artillery at a walking pace, and, as they 
 passed, struck up their wild kettle-drum and 
 trumpet music ; last came the irregular horse, 
 as the day, which had been most favourable for 
 the review, was closing, and thus ended a spec- 
 tacle most novel, and so chivalrous as to 
 remind one of the bygone feudal times amongst 
 ourselves ; and as long as I exist in this frail 
 body I shall ever recollect with pleasure Runjeet 
 Singh's review of his army. It is true I have 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 163 
 
 seen large European armies collected together, 
 both for fighting and review, but the excite- 
 ment produced by them was but tame and dull 
 in comparison to what I have above so feebly- 
 described. 
 
 It was well for the army that the inspection 
 here terminated, for the monsoon suddenly 
 burst upon us with extreme violence, — so much 
 so, that tents and huts were blown down in all 
 directions, horses broke loose from their pickets, 
 and galloped furiously about the country ; and 
 altogether the scene of confusion around was 
 indescribable. So violent was the wind and 
 rain, that most of the troops were obliged to 
 seek shelter wherever they could, either in La- 
 hore or the villages around. The men of the 
 cavalry and artillery were miserably off, for they, 
 in spite of wind and rain, were obliged to look 
 after their horses. However, the Sikhs are a 
 hardy race, and did not suffer so much as the 
 Hindoos under like circumstances would have 
 done, and, like good soldiers, secured their 
 horses under any cover they could, so long as 
 'his terrible weather lasted. At the end of three 
 lays it moderated, and so much so, that mat- 
 ters began to get into order. The sun came 
 forth, and enlivened us all. It was well that 
 plenty of food and forage had been in store, as 
 
 M 2 
 
164 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 it enabled tlie almost famislied men and horses 
 to be served out with both. The effects pro- 
 duced by the storm passed rapidly away, and 
 eyerything about the encampment resumed its 
 order and regularity. In a few days it was 
 finally broken up, when the army, separating, 
 marched off to occupy their former stations. 
 
 The time was now approaching for my de- 
 parture. I had a land journey before me, and 
 a voyage to England to get over, before my 
 leave expired. A Sikh officer offered me a 
 good price for my pretty Arab, which I sold to 
 him, knowing how well he would be cared for. 
 Having sent in my name to the Maharajah 
 in farewell, his Highness expressed a wish 
 to see me. I accordingly waited on him, when 
 he was pleased to express the satisfaction he 
 felt at my having witnessed the review of his 
 army, saying, " I know you will give your com- 
 rades a good account of it;" and then, throwing 
 a rich yellow scarf over my shoulders, bade me 
 farewell, and withdrew. 
 
 Alas ! how a few years will alter everything. 
 Here was a powerful state, formed by the genius 
 of this great man, only to last with unexampled 
 prosperity during his life. At his death, in a 
 few years after my last interview, his successors 
 got into difficulties with the English Govern- 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 165 
 
 ment on two occasions. On both sides war 
 was declared, and after two hard-fouglit cam- 
 paigns, and the loss of very many gallant men, 
 the Sikh army in the last conflict was finally 
 subdued, and the present heir to the Musnud, 
 Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, is now residing in 
 England, and a favourite at the Court of Queen 
 Victoria. 
 
 The day previous to my departure I was visited 
 by all those whom I became acquainted with 
 here, who expressed themselves sorry I was 
 leaving, wishing me all happiness through life. 
 I gave them something as a remembrance ; and 
 my two late travelling companions begged my 
 acceptance of a very handsome matchlock, to 
 whom I presented my pistols in return, and so 
 we bade adieu. A farewell is always accom- 
 panied, more or less, with a feehng of melan- 
 choly, when parting from those we may never 
 see again. 
 
166 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 1835. 
 
 ON the morning of the 12th of September I 
 was on my way, and, as I passed across the 
 plains, was gratified by the sight of, I suppose, 
 nearly five hundred elephants, those used on state 
 occasions, in their splendid appointments, but 
 most of them belonging to the army, for service 
 against the enemy in time of need. There are 
 generally two attached to draw a heavy piece 
 of artillery, which those intelligent animals be- 
 come familiar with, and, without being led, 
 proceed to it for the purpose of being harnessed 
 before the time of march commences. In fact, 
 by some training, and the kindness of their 
 keepers, they can be made to do anything 
 wanted. This reminds me of their use in the 
 siege of Asseerghur, in 1819. They not only 
 dragged the breaching-cannon up the slopes 
 of attack, but, when the ground was too steep 
 for that, they were turned, two at a time, 
 placed with their heads to the wheels, and so 
 gradually forced them on to their respective 
 platforms. The elephants I now saw were mus- 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 167 
 
 tered for inspection by order of the Maliarajali, 
 and, as tliey passed the inspecting officers by- 
 six at a time, seemed proud of the attention 
 paid them. 
 
 Having made twenty miles the first day, I 
 halted in the evening. My curry and coffee 
 were prepared for me, and, as I felt fatigued, I 
 rested to have a good sleep, and at two in the 
 morning again proceeded on my journey. The 
 next morning being very wet and stormy, I 
 deferred proceeding until the weather mode- 
 rated, and my servants were not sorry for the 
 delay, as it saved them from exposure to the 
 storm. I had hired eight bearers to accompany 
 me for the whole journey, four bearing me at 
 a time, relieving each other in succession. I 
 found this a good arrangement, as there was no 
 unnecessary delay on the road, though it is more 
 expensive than in laying a regular dak from the 
 villages on your way, as it is now always arranged 
 in Hindostan. Indeed, I do not think that this 
 country, at the time I am writing of, had regular 
 post-bearers, and I could not have been able to 
 lay them. My palkee was placed under shelter 
 in an old house by the roadside, where my ser- 
 vants could cook and repose themselves. 
 
 As the weather on the second morning was 
 still inclement, I delayed my departure, and, as 
 
168 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I could sleep no longer, I raised my pillows to 
 get a volume of Walter Scott from beneath 
 them, to read till breakfast was ready, when I 
 felt something moving under my hand. It 
 occurred instantly to me that a snake might 
 have thought fit to make itself my companion 
 in this weather, as it sometimes does, even in 
 one's bed, to get warm and comfortable. I 
 gently put down my pillows, remaining some 
 short time quiet, as a slight moving of some- 
 thing inside was quite perceptible ; but as it is 
 well known to be the best way to lie still in such 
 cases, I did so. 
 
 The only difficulty now was to get out with- 
 out disturbing my friend, whatever it might 
 be. At length, I quietly got free from the 
 covering around me, and, as I did so, saw the 
 scales of a large snake underneath. I, however, 
 got out safely, and proceeded to wake up my 
 servants, who lay muffled up, sleeping around me. 
 In doing so some noise was made, when one of 
 them drew my attention to the head of a very 
 large cobra-capella, reared above my pillows in 
 the palkee, with his hood expanded ready for 
 assault, the noise made in awakening the ser- 
 vants having evidently disturbed his slumbers. 
 
 All were very soon on the alert, and sticks 
 used to eject the intruder, but it was not so 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 169 
 
 easily done. He stuck to his cover, snapping 
 at the sticks ; at length, a blow on the head 
 stunned him, when he was thrown out and de- 
 spatched. He was full five feet in length, and 
 how such a big fellow could have entered the 
 palenkeen was a wonder, as only one of the 
 doors was open a little all night, to admit air, 
 and the circumference of the snake was over 
 five inches. 
 
 Now, many people, living in ease at home, 
 may think such occurrences as this are fre- 
 quent, and that snakes and other noxious rep- 
 tiles are ever ready to attack you. It is not 
 so, however ; they will always get out of your 
 way, if they can, unless you attack them first, 
 when they will bite or sting you in return. 
 What I have just mentioned is, with some other 
 cases of this sort, but seldom met with, and 
 then not, apparently, with any hostile intention 
 on the part of the reptiles. 
 
 The day cleared up so much after the adven- 
 ture with the snake, that I was able to have a 
 walk towards noon, and espied a large piece of 
 water at some distance, with numerous birds 
 flying about it. Having my double-barrelled 
 always ready, I sallied out, and in something 
 more than an hour returned with three pairs of 
 whistling teal, so called from the strange whist- 
 
170 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 ling noise they make to each other when dis- 
 turbed. They are nearly the size of a common 
 duck, and very good eating. With these I 
 returned, giving them, except one, which I 
 had roasted for my dinner, to the servants, who 
 made the usual curries of them. 
 
 After dinner the weather became so fine that 
 I pursued my journey for upwards of twenty- 
 six miles before halting to refresh the bearers 
 and give time for the servants to join us. 
 After ten hours' rest, we again started, and so 
 continued our route, halting occasionally, and 
 then off again ; and in this way we continued 
 onwards, occasionally crossing rivers, streams, 
 and hills, without accident of any kind on our 
 way for a couple of weeks, until we came in 
 sight of the Sutlej — our destination, where we 
 rested some days. Now came the point, how 
 was I to proceed ? when my head man told me 
 that the bearers would take me to my old 
 quarters, Simla, at a moderate charge. This 
 was quite pleasing, for not only should I see that 
 place and my old friends again, but it relieved 
 my mind from any anxiety in the matter as to 
 how I was to proceed farther on my journey, as 
 I knew that at Simla I could procure ample 
 means to proceed, either on horseback or by dak. 
 On my way to the Plains, I amused myself as 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 171 
 
 well as I could, sauntering along tlie banks of 
 the Sutlej, occasionally gun in hand, for a sliot 
 at waterfowl, wliich here were scarce. How- 
 ever, I did rather better with mj rod and flies ; 
 and on one day, after a heavy shower of rain, I 
 succeeded in catching a good dish of a shining, 
 or rather silvery- coloured fish, of herring size 
 and shape, but of deeper body. They rose 
 freely at some of my gaudy flies, giving me 
 much sport. I cannot say that, in dressing 
 some of them in our way, their flavour was the 
 best ; but they made a good curry, and there 
 was plenty for all, which was a pleasant variety 
 in our every-day bill of fare. 
 
 Having sufiiciently rested, we again moved 
 on, enjoying the fair, cool weather of Septem- 
 ber, and soon reached the beautiful line of hills 
 around our destination, on approaching which 
 I despatched a bearer, on my last day's journey, 
 with a note to my friend before mentioned, 
 who had treated me so kindly, and who, I 
 hoped, was still at Simla. Nor was I dis- 
 appointed: he was at home, and no sooner 
 received my note than he came to join me on 
 the road, in order to invite me to share the 
 hospitality of his house, where I found, as 
 before, everything I could wish. 
 
 At breakfast, the news of the day was related 
 
172 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 to me, and tlien the every-day talk of the 
 station. Some friends were still there, and 
 were well ; others had separated to follow their 
 duties at their respective posts. There were 
 a few incidents of a romantic character that 
 ended in marriage amongst the young folk, 
 and one or two occurrences of a painful kind, 
 which sometimes happen at large stations in 
 India. Some account of my adventures in the 
 Punjaub seemed to cause much amusement as 
 well as interest to my friend and his amiable 
 sister, who were very desirous to know the 
 feelings of the renowned chief, Runjeet Singh, 
 towards the English. I related all I had seen 
 and known regarding his Highness, and his 
 very friendly feeling for the English nation, 
 saying that I thought, if we had, as was even 
 at that time rumoured, any war in the direction 
 of Afghanistan, that Runjeet Singh would 
 either be our ally, or remain neutral, in any 
 conflict that might take place ; which, when 
 it did occur, a couple of years afterwards, 
 actually proved true. 
 
 In the course of the day, my arrival from 
 Lahore was talked about everywhere, and I 
 speedily got invitations, not only from former 
 friends, but from others, greedy to hear the 
 news of what I had gone through. In due 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 173 
 
 course I attended their dinner-parties, and had 
 to relate over again the different scenes I wit- 
 nessed. The ladies were particularly anxious 
 to know what knowledge I had acquired re- 
 garding the fairer portion of the Punjaubees, 
 but on this subject I failed in giving them the 
 necessary information, although some of them 
 appeared to find out that I could tell more on 
 this subject than I was willing to do. 
 
 This was to a certain extent true, for 
 although the Sikh people are more liberal in 
 their ideas regarding their females than the 
 same class of persons appear to be in other 
 parts of the East, still they are by no means 
 ready to introduce their wives or daughters to 
 any intercourse or to the observation of other 
 men; and my knowledge of them generally 
 was so rare that I could not be a competent 
 judge, excepting in one or two cases of a most 
 confidential nature, such as my favoured inter- 
 view with the beautiful Georgian, to whom I 
 have before alluded; and in another, when a 
 well-known chieftain had introduced me to his 
 wife and children. The particulars or names 
 of those parties I did not choose to relate. 
 
 In this agreeable way I passed the few days 
 I intended to remain in this delightful place 
 before leaving it, perhaps for ever ; and having 
 
174 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 decided to ride on horseback down the hills, 
 and thence to my old regiment, the Camero- 
 nians, at Meerut, about forty miles distant from 
 them, I bought a nice little half-caste, or rather 
 half-bred, bay Arab, and otherwise prepared for 
 my solitary march to the Plains. The day 
 came, as it always does, when I once more 
 bade farewell to my ever-kind friends; and 
 parting with my servants (who wished to remain 
 with me), except one to attend myself, and 
 another my horse, I proceeded to descend the 
 same road back which I came by, now and 
 then meeting an English traveller, which was 
 a relief, as we always had a talk on the passing 
 events of the day. 
 
 In this way I gradually made the principal 
 stations on my way down, to the last on the 
 hills, Subathoo, bordering the kingdom of 
 Nepaul, now governed by its well-known chief, 
 Jung Behauder. This State I wished much to 
 see, and its hardy little Ghoorka soldiers — in- 
 trepid men, particularly in their native hills,- — 
 but I had now not sufficient time to do so. 
 
 There happened to be a corps of Ghoorkas 
 at that time in our service stationed here, the 
 commandant of which, an English officer, I 
 knew in other days very well, and called upon 
 him. He begged me to remain with him a few 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 175 
 
 days, in remembrance of old times, and dispel 
 the ennui he began to feel in having had nobody 
 to associate with for the last six months but 
 his adjutant, and nothing to occupy his time 
 but the routine duties and drill of his corps. 
 My friend being a very well-informed man, 
 I gladly accepted his kind invite. "We had 
 many hours of mutual converse, and, amongst 
 other matters, he stated that he had known a 
 good deal of Nepaul and its government, and 
 of the character of its ruler, Jung Behauder, 
 who had got into power by what we should 
 justly call unlawful means. Still, he had after- 
 wards, by his courage, firmness, and good 
 management, put down the discord and dis- 
 turbances that prevailed over the country at 
 that time, and had ever since governed it so 
 well that the country was in a most prosperous 
 state, and my friend believed him to be a firm ally 
 of England. In my stories to him, relative to 
 all that happened to me, he was much interested, 
 particularly as regarded the last country I had 
 visited, and its friendly feeling towards us. 
 
 In this way time flew happily away, and 
 few except those who have experienced it 
 can conceive how pleasing to the mind is 
 the meeting of old friends, long separated in 
 foreign lands. We varied our amusements by 
 
176 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 giving a day to shooting, in wliich we bagged 
 some of the common brown pheasant and a 
 couple of pea-fowl, which were duly consigned 
 to an excellent cook, the former to be roasted, 
 and some curried — the latter to produce that 
 famous Eastern soup, called mulkautani. 
 
 Having stated to my friend a wish I had to 
 see his Ghoorkas before leaving, he at once con- 
 sented, and had them paraded accordingly, the 
 day before my departure. On that day there 
 assembled two hundred and fifty well-appointed 
 active little men, in green rifle dress, who 
 formed column and marched past in quick 
 time, with arms advanced, sloping, and carried, 
 as a salute, in passing us, very well indeed ; 
 then they changed front from line in skir- 
 mishing order, and I must say that I thought 
 better or more active soldiers for this important 
 duty could not well be found. The whole corps, 
 with a reserve, then formed an advanced guard 
 in the woods around, and I never saw it better 
 done, or so quickly. Their fire was well timed 
 and well sustained, and they showed themselves 
 the very men for it, particularly in this moun- 
 tainous and deeply-wooded country. All this 
 occupied about a couple of hours, when they 
 formed, marched past as before, and then dis- 
 missed, after having been most justly praised 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 177 
 
 for their performance in the field, as well as for 
 their good conduct at all times, with which the 
 men appeared highly pleased. The dinner of 
 this day was highly relished — it was excellent. 
 In taking leave afterwards the moment was 
 saddened by the word farewell ; however, this 
 must be so always in this world, either for good 
 or evil. 
 
 Next morning at daylight I mounted my 
 horse, when my fi[*iend met and accompanied 
 me for a couple of miles on my road. We then 
 again bade adieu, and sorry I was to hear it was 
 the last, as he, unfortunately for his friends and 
 the service, died a few months after, of jungle 
 fever. I seldom met with a more agreeable 
 companion. 
 
 In resuming my way down, the sun broke out 
 lovely to behold, throwing a brightness and 
 beauty on the scene shortly before darkened by 
 heavy clouds. There lay the vast and rich 
 plains before me, spread out as on a map, far 
 as the eye could reach ; and around me were 
 the still beautiful and varied hills, sloping off 
 and diminishing in height as they approached 
 the low grounds. The palm-tree, the pine, and 
 the rhododendron appeared dwarfed in com- 
 parison to those I left behind. The shrubs and 
 flowers, too, were much less in size ; but there 
 
 N 
 
178 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE ' 
 
 were still in tlie valleys the Cyprus and myrtle, 
 the latter as beautiful and sweet- smelling as 
 ever. Sprinkled about were many pretty bun- 
 galows, surrounded by their well laid-out gar- 
 dens, owned by many whose occupations were 
 here locally situated, or belonging to gentlemen 
 on their respective duties elsewhere. The whole 
 presented a landscape of much domestic beauty, 
 heightened by the sight of a number of rivulets 
 meandering through the valleys, and a variety 
 of small birds, mostly fly-catchers, arrayed in 
 varied and rich plumage, flitting along the 
 rivulets in search of their daily food. 
 
 I was now leaving behind me all that was so 
 strikingly lovely in scenery, and, like the last 
 rose of summer, fading away, as I descended 
 lower and lower, until at length the travellers* 
 bungalow came in sight, at the foot of the hills. 
 Here I found, after all, something to comfort 
 me, in the shape of a roasted pheasant and a 
 curry, which my servant, having started before 
 me, had ready prepared for me. 
 
 It is fortunate for erring man that in his 
 most sublime moments, his appetite, if good, 
 gets the better of his feelings; and so much 
 was it so in my case, that I nearly finished the 
 pheasant, and the curry too, with infinite good- 
 will, leaving my poor servant so small an allow- 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 179 
 
 ance of the last dish, that I think he said, in 
 consequence of mj preferring this low country 
 air to the mountain, '' Yes, it is very good for 
 master : he come down hill — his appetite come 
 plenty better." 
 
 He made me laugh, and I then gave him my 
 last pheasant to make for himself a plentiful 
 curry. This he had ready in half an hour, for 
 in making this dish they never pluck a fowl, 
 but dip him, feathers and all, in hot water. He 
 is then instantly skinned, broken up, and ready 
 for use. 
 
 Having finished my claret and coffee, after a 
 walk in the neighbourhood, I retired to my cot, 
 sleeping soundly until nearly four o'clock next 
 morning, generally my time of rising. 
 
 *A few quiet marches would take me to 
 Meerut, where my late regiment still was, and 
 where I intended to remain some days. I 
 accordingly pursued my way, without incident 
 of any kind, over the uninteresting plains, until 
 again the far-famed Delhi broke upon my sight. 
 On passing through it everything appeared aS 
 I had left it, and I put up outside, at the usual 
 bungalow for travellers. 
 
 As my last march brought me in sight, of 
 Meerut, I perceived, as the sun peeped out 
 across the horizon, a red line on the parade- 
 
 xN 2 
 
180 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 ground, and soon made it out to be the Came- 
 ronians, returning to their barracks after their 
 morning march, with their gallant colonel at 
 their head — Colonel Oglander, who once every 
 week marched his men in line for about three 
 miles, then right about face and back again, in 
 the same order ; and nothing could be finer or 
 better done than this simple, but difficult move- 
 ment to maintain correctly ; and certainly this 
 fine regiment, nearly a thousand bayonets, did 
 it to perfection. 
 
 I was made an honorary member of the mess 
 the instant it was known that I had come, and 
 duly attended that evening ; and when I arrived 
 the pipes were blowing away merrily for dinner. 
 The table was spread, and amongst other good 
 things was a haggis, deliciously made, with the 
 fresh spices of the East mixed in it to perfec- 
 tion. After all had done justice to the goodly 
 fare, we adjourned to the smoking-room, where 
 my old messmates said, " Come, Nevill, have a 
 meerschaum, then we'll have a bowl of whisky 
 toddy, when we know you will sing us, * Scots 
 wha ha' wi' Wallace bled !' then ' Over the hills 
 and far away !' and then to bed till morning 
 dawns." 
 
 It was thus I passed a most delightful evening. 
 Many years have gone away since then ; but 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 181 
 
 often busy memoiy recalls the past cliarmiiig 
 phases of my Hfe, and brings a smile to its 
 recollection. 
 
 The second evening came and went in the 
 same pleasing manner, during which some sit- 
 ting near me said, " You know how glad we are 
 to see you, and we don't think there can be any 
 mistake about that ; so do pray let us hear some- 
 thing regarding what you have seen in the land 
 of the Sikh." I willingly complied, and full 
 attention was paid to my tale throughout. 
 
 A grand ceremony was now announced as 
 about to take place, which was to be followed 
 by a banquet at Sirdahna, near which town 
 was the palace of her Highness the celebrated 
 Begum Sumroo, to which the officers of the 
 regiment were invited, including myself. 
 
 This princess had conformed to the Catholic 
 faith, and a celebration in her Highness' s 
 chapeP was to take place by a dignitary of 
 that Church, well known as Monsignore JuHus 
 Caesar, who, at our mess, sometimes sang of 
 the glory of Nelson and the battle of the Nile, 
 with considerable effect. 
 
 The day arrived, and a procession was formed 
 of the converts to the Christian faith. Some of 
 these had been admitted to the priesthood, and 
 * In honour of a saint. 
 
182 SOME BECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 were dressed in white surplices, having silver 
 incense vases in their hands, waving about, 
 sending forth clouds of rich perfume. The pro- 
 cession, as usual, was headed by bearers with 
 gilt crosses. 
 
 Then came the bishop, in his mitre and 
 splendid blue velvet robes, covered with em- 
 broidered crosses. After him came a sort of 
 litter of crimson velvet, gorgeously gilded, in 
 which was seated her Highness, attended by 
 her relative, Colonel Dyce Sombre,* com- 
 manding the troops of the princess, and other 
 officers of the State. 
 
 Her Highness, though seventy-five years of 
 age, was yet good-looking and attractive ; and 
 as I bowed to her, in passing, I thought of the 
 many varied scenes of her past adventurous 
 career — memorable from so many vicissitudes 
 of fortune, that a book might be written on the 
 remarkable events connected with her past 
 life. 
 
 The doors were now thrown open, and the 
 procession proceeded along the elegant mosaic- 
 paved aisle, chaunting psalms in Latin, to 
 the High Altar, of great beauty, in a blaze of 
 light. The ceremony was gone through with 
 much dignity, and then the bishop blessed the 
 * A very kind and very clever man. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 183 
 
 princess ; and as her Higliness raised her hands 
 in prayer, her arms became uncovered — white, 
 and still beautiful. Her Highness, though of 
 small stature, must have been once eminently 
 handsome. 
 
 High Mass was celebrated with good music, 
 and the exquisitely rich voice of an Italian 
 clergyman and others. So this impressive 
 ceremony closed, and it is difficult to describe 
 the grandeur of the scene, together with the 
 brilliancy of the sun, sparkling through the 
 painted windows. No words can tell their 
 effect upon the beholder, blended with tints of 
 softened hues around you, in this very pretty 
 chapel, such as we never see at home. 
 
 Feehngs quiet and mysterious stole over me 
 as I left this most interesting place ; but I was 
 soon awakened from Fancy's dream by the guns 
 of her Highness firing a salute in honour of the 
 occasion, which brought my mind back again 
 to every-day life. 
 
 All the officers attending the ceremony 
 had apartments in the palace, and anything 
 wanted, and called for by them, was instantly 
 complied with. 
 
 Any one who has been in the East can un- 
 derstand the magnificence of fireworks there 
 displayed on important occasions ; and their 
 
184 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 appearance this night, I think, surpassed in 
 splendour anything I had ever seen before. 
 In our cold, moist climate the fireworks we 
 exhibit are but tame and dull in comparison. 
 
 The banquet followed the fireworks, and was 
 laid in the grand saloon of the palace.* This 
 room, at least a hundred feet long, and nearly 
 as many broad, was throughout encased with 
 Chunam polished marble, and enriched with 
 flowers on the walls, and other ornaments in 
 lapis-lazuli of varied colours, all rich, and first- 
 rate in efiect. 
 
 There were three tables, ranged alongside 
 each other, covered with cloths of superb 
 damask, on which were placed every luxury 
 that either the East or the West could furnish. 
 On a raised dais, covered by a golden canopy, 
 sat the princess, dressed in white muslin robes, 
 with a chain of large pearls round her neck, 
 which held a large diamond cross of great 
 value. Round her Highness, sitting on cush- 
 ions, below her, were some handsome damsels, 
 her attendants. Those ladies had apparently 
 conformed to her Highness' s new faith, for 
 they all wore rich crosses on their necks. On 
 a marble table by her side stood a small hookah, 
 a costly-looking article, the jewelled pipe of 
 * Mostly in niins at the Mutiny, 1857. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 185 
 
 which the princess lowered to her side with 
 much grace as her guests came forward to pay 
 their respects in succession. 
 
 We then sat down to the feast, and after the 
 first course, Colonel Dyce Sombre* announced 
 that it was the wish of her Highness that we 
 should charge our glasses. The health of 
 William lY. of England was then drunk, all 
 standing. This was followed by the health 
 of her Highness the Begum Sumroo, who 
 then rose, and, bowing courteously around, 
 retired, attended by her suite. 
 
 We then right earnestly began to enjoy our- 
 selves, the good cheer and fine wine having 
 their eficct upon us in producing much wit and 
 repartee of a happy kind. After some time, 
 those who could sing well were called upon, as 
 was customary with us in those days, far away 
 from home. As the evening advanced, we broke 
 up, some for home, others to play at cards 
 or billiards, a few to see the celebrated com- 
 pany of the Almae dance ; and thus terminated 
 this superb banquet. 
 
 * On the death of the Begum Sumroo, this gentleman 
 went to England with a very large fortune, and married 
 Lord St. Vincent's daughter. 
 
186 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 1835. 
 
 HAYINGr remained long enough in Meerut, 
 I hired a budgerow to convey me down 
 the mighty Ganges — or, as often called, the 
 Hoogly — to Cawnpore, and eventually to Cal- 
 cutta. This budgerow (I suppose now well 
 known) is a broad native boat, constructed so 
 as to admit of a bungalow, generally of bamboo 
 and matting. There were two apartments, and 
 a stable for my horse. 
 
 The prow of this boat is sometimes adorned 
 with an idol, or hideous figure-head, having 
 no bowsprit ; the only sails in common use, 
 according to its size, are either one, two, or 
 three lug- sails, hoisted one above another in 
 the fashion of square-rigged vessels. These 
 boats generally sail very well, ofiering little 
 resistance to the water; but they very often 
 upset when sailing in a strong wind, being for 
 the most part top-heavy. 
 
 The manji, or master of the boat, directs 
 the helm : another man stands in the bows, 
 with a long bamboo, to shove ofi* from all 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 187 
 
 banks, rocks, and other obstructions. There 
 were six other men, three of a side, with most 
 primitive paddles, with which they aided in 
 propeUing the boat; and so we proceeded at 
 a quick rate, and in fine weather it is a very 
 pleasant mode of travelling. Here you have 
 leisure and opportunity to contemplate the fine 
 views and towns on your way, and particularly 
 the numerous temples of various creeds^ all 
 unique, and marked by beauty : indeed, the 
 scenery in many parts of the river is highly 
 picturesque, and furnishes your sketch-book 
 with very beautiful examples of form and 
 colouring, light and shade. 
 
 The charming appearance of the slender 
 minarets and clustering domes of the mosque, 
 rising one above another, of the moslem, 
 together with the more massive-built pagodas 
 of the Hindoo with their quaint decorations, 
 and the very queer jumble of native villages 
 and streets, form a whole so novel to the sight, 
 and often so striking, that I defy the beholder, 
 be he ever so lazy, to pass them without trans- 
 ferring their appearance to his sketch-book. 
 You thus, aided by reading, pass your time 
 most agreeably. 
 
 When evening came, I had either a walk or, 
 when practicable, landed my horse, and had 
 
188 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 a scamper along the shore. The banks, how- 
 ever, of a shifting nature, are very treacherous, 
 and sometimes, when walked on, they sink 
 with yourself into the river. I have in this 
 way got a sound ducking. In case a storm 
 should arise, it is absolutely necessary to pull 
 up the boat and anchor off a protecting bank. 
 
 Wild-fowl, partridge, hare, and larger ani- 
 mals are met with on the shore, and, for the 
 sportsman going down, prove an addition to 
 his dinner. Nor are fish to be forgotten, nor 
 the alligator, certain parts of which a native 
 considers good food. 
 
 I happened to get close to a young one, 
 about three feet long, on which I poured, at 
 about ten yards' distance, such a potent charge 
 of shot, that he hardly stirred, only kicking 
 a bit ; and an hour afterwards he was bubbling 
 in the pots of my attendants. 
 
 I occasionally caught some good fish with 
 my rod and flies, catching sometimes the deli- 
 cate tupsi and other smaller fish ; and, once in 
 a way, one which very much resembled the 
 pomfret, but larger than I have seen it taken 
 on the Madras coast. The curry made by this 
 fellow was excellent. 
 
 One day I put on a salmon-fly : a dash was 
 soon made at it by a large fish; but I lost 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 189 
 
 him, and the fly too. Seeing some large fish 
 in shallow water, I twisted a piece of bright tin. 
 above a large hook, to which I attached a 
 strong line, to act as a spinner under water ; 
 but I paid for this experiment by having my rod 
 broken. A mahsir of large size took it, at the 
 same time bouncing above water, showing his 
 dimensions, something like four feet, and thick 
 in proportion. One of the boatmen jumped 
 overboard, and caught the broken piece of rod 
 and line ; but the fish broke the line in a 
 moment, and got out of his reach. 
 
 While this was going on, a huge mugger* 
 raised himself close to the boatman, who became 
 frightened, and dashed off" to the shore. We 
 all shouted to frighten the monster, who evi- 
 dently appeared to look after the fish, splashing 
 about, entangled in the piece of line and rod, 
 and no doubt swallowed him, as we lost sight of 
 both shortly after. The man, after a good deal 
 of trouble, we got on board again, more dead 
 than alive. 
 
 There are some people who have a great 
 dislike to eat fish caught in the Ganges : I have 
 no such feeling. It perhaps will not prove 
 pleasant to know what our own fish feed on 
 
 * Broad-nosed alligator. Some of these monsters are from 
 twenty-£ye to thirty feet in length. 
 
190 SOME EECOLLEOTIONS IN THE 
 
 sometimes. No doubt it is disagreeable to 
 think that dead bodies are every day consigned 
 to the waters of the Sacred Ganges ; but then 
 we are not always to take it for granted that 
 they are eaten by the fish. 
 
 We had generally fine weather, and got on 
 very well ; but in sailing round curves of the 
 river, there is sometimes much difficulty ex- 
 perienced in avoiding collision with boats 
 wending their way up the stream. These latter 
 boats being pulled, by means of ropes fastened 
 to their bows, by " trackers," or men either on 
 shore or wading in shallow water, cannot well 
 get out of the way of those coming down, and 
 therefore a good deal depends upon skill in 
 steering to avoid accident. 
 
 On one occasion we struck the bow of a 
 budgerow coming up. Both boats were all but 
 upset ; fortunately, our sails went over the side 
 on the crash taking place. The coming boat 
 got the worst of it, as her bows were much 
 injured. And never did I hear such an uproar 
 as it occasioned on board both boats, one 
 accusing the other of stupidity in the matter ; 
 and I must say the natives of the East are 
 by no means deficient in using ugly language, 
 when angry, towards each other, any more 
 than their brethren of the West, whom they 
 
LIPE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 191 
 
 beat hollow in words of abuse. In the other 
 boat were some women and children, and the 
 screaming of these was fearful. " We shall 
 all go to the bottom, and be eaten by the 
 alligators," was one of their exclamations. 
 After all this terror, there was not so much 
 harm done. We managed to get the boats on 
 shore to repair damages, and some rupees from 
 me reconciled matters. After three days' 
 hammering and splicing, we were again both 
 ready for a start. It often happens, in bad 
 weather, that boats are sunk, either by collision 
 or sandbanks, and some lives lost. We parted 
 good friends the fourth day after the accident, 
 and our boat proceeded in the usual way for 
 some weeks on our route to Cawnpore, my 
 time being employed in reading, sketching, 
 shooting, &c. 
 
 One day we passed an immense swampy 
 piece of ground, swarming with wild geese. 
 They occasionally got up in such dense masses, 
 that I fired at them with ball, occasionally 
 bringing one down ; but such was the imprac- 
 ticable nature of the ground, that it was 
 impossible to get them. 
 
 Three days before we reached our destination, 
 we had the good fortune to weather a fearful 
 storm. It was foretold by the approach of 
 
192 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 heavy masses of dark clouds surrounding us, 
 and a deep moaning noise of wind. Tlie manji 
 said we must lose no time in securing the boat. 
 We made for a deep nook on the left bank of 
 the river, in which we secured her, taking in 
 sails, masts, &c. The storm began, a wild 
 commotion whirled vapour about us in all direc- 
 tions, then burst upon us a dire tornado, which 
 laid prostrate everything exposed to its influ- 
 ence. The high palm-trees in the plain were 
 bowed to the earth ; the plantain, the vine, and 
 other trees and shrubs were strewed in frag- 
 ments everywhere.* The vivid hghtning hissed 
 around, and the rattling thunder shook from 
 the black revolving clouds a storm of hail 
 almost as terrible as that which is described by 
 Moses as having fallen upon the Egyptians. 
 The hailstones were so large that, in striking, 
 they cut the face or hands severely. 
 
 It was most fortunate for us that we were so 
 well protected on either side by two sound, high 
 banks, else our frail bungalow, boat and all, I 
 think, must have gone. My little horse trembled 
 in every limb, and broke out in profuse perspira- 
 
 * A fine old banyan-tree stood it out better than any of 
 the rest. This tree is well known from the extent to which 
 it grows ; stems descending from the branches to the ground, 
 take root, and extend ad injmitvmi. 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 193 
 
 tion. Nor did he altogether get off clear. One 
 of the boatmen, securing a rope to the side of 
 the vessel, was struck by the lightning, and, 
 poor fellow, bhnded for ever. He received 
 no other injury, however. This dreadful weather 
 lasted nearly three hours, and then gradually 
 cleared away, to our inexpressible delight. 
 
 When we were able to look around, we beheld 
 a wild and desolate sight. Far as the eye 
 could reach, the ground was covered with hail- 
 stones, fallen trees, and fragments of all kinds. 
 On the evening of this eventful day, I was 
 rather surprised to find the manji and his men 
 busy in getting the boat out of the creek which 
 so well protected us during the storm. The 
 river, too, was very much swollen, and here- 
 abouts abounded in sandbanks of a shifting 
 nature. On inquiry, I heard that the reason 
 for moving away from the left bank of the river 
 to the right was, that on the right bank we 
 were on British territory, and comparatively 
 safe from robbers attacking us ; whereas, where 
 we then were, was on the borders of the King 
 of Oude's territories ; and that plundering- 
 parties belonging to that State were ever on 
 the look-out for boats meeting with accidents, 
 lurking on the banks, ready to take advan- 
 tage of any mishap that might happen to 
 
194 SOME BECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 travellers,* and after the storm were sure to 
 be out watdiing-. 
 
 I had hardly heard this, when two horsemen, 
 well armed, appeared, galloping alongside the 
 river. They suddenly stopped, and looked 
 towards us ; and as we were disengaging the 
 vessel from the shore, one head popped up 
 before us, then another. A matchlock was 
 pointed at the boat, and the owner of the 
 matchlock said, " You must wait until we see 
 who you are." The manji, coming to me, said, 
 ** Sir, master put on his uniform, and show 
 himself; they will not attack us, as they are 
 very much afraid of English officer." (I was 
 then dressed something in the native way.) I 
 lost no time in doing so ; but, before I was 
 quite ready, I heard a shot, followed by some 
 of the boatmen rushing on me. I had then 
 my uniform-coat on, and dashed out to the 
 side of the boat, pistols in hand, just in time, 
 as some of the rascals were coming on board. 
 On seeing me, as I shouted to them in English, 
 about a dozen of them scampered off in every 
 direction, which I was really not sorry for, and, 
 as an adieu, fired amongst them, but did not 
 see that my ball had taken effect. We had no 
 
 * Whom they plundered, and afterwards usually mur- 
 dered. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVTLL. 195 
 
 further annoyance, and at length got the vessel 
 well into the river, when on she went at a great 
 rate; but there was little or no wind, and 
 before it was quite dark we anchored on our 
 side of the river all right. 
 
 As the dak, or post, was to pass near us next 
 morning, I prepared a note for my old friend 
 and comrade, George Mansel, then captain in 
 the 16th Lancers, stationed at Cawnpore. We 
 had both lived together and hunted together 
 for some years, when in the 30th Infantry, 
 serving in the Deccan. He was a very excellent 
 fellow — nothing appeared to put him out of 
 temper — and one of the boldest sportsmen I 
 ever met with. We were one day out shooting, 
 and I separated from him in pursuit of a pea- 
 fowl, which led me a long way to get it : when 
 I fell in with him again, he was surrounded by 
 natives. Inside the circle was himself, and 
 beside him a dead panther. This panther had 
 slaughtered several sheep, and had made such 
 a hearty meal of some of them, that he lay 
 down near his victims, in some bushes. The 
 natives, on seeing Mansel approach the place, 
 prayed of him to kill their enemy, pointing out 
 the spot where it was. Without a moment's 
 hesitation, he mounted his horse, gun in hand, 
 and charged at the panther, who thought it 
 
 2 
 
196 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 best, on this occasion, to make off. Mansel 
 followed him, and, when within a few yards, 
 discharged both barrels into his side, killing him, 
 fortunately, on the spot. The brute was 
 gorged, certainly, and could neither spring well 
 nor run fast ; but this does not take off from the 
 courage shown in the matter. The panther, 
 when enraged or hungry, is most ferocious, and 
 will attack anything. 
 
 We kept a strict watch during the night, but 
 were not disturbed. Next morning I despatched 
 my note. We then proceeded on our way, and, 
 without further interruption, reached the prin- 
 cipal ghat of Cawnpore. The first person I 
 saw there was Mansel, and I think he was as 
 glad to see me as I him. My horse and 
 baggage being landed and despatched to his 
 house, we proceeded together to his hospitable 
 home, where we were welcomed by the lady, 
 his wife, who greeted me well on my return 
 from the interior of the East. Here I lived 
 for some weeks, enjoying his society, always 
 accompanying him to his field-duties and to 
 stables, and passing my time most agreeably. 
 
 The 16th Lancers, a distinguished regiment, 
 were in their full strength, and presented a 
 magnificent appearance in their very handsome 
 dress and black plumes. They were com- 
 
LIPE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 197 
 
 manded by one of the finest fellows in the 
 army, the celebrated Colonel Arnold. He 
 accompanied his regiment on the expedition to 
 Afghanistan, and died of fatigue at Oabul. It 
 was too much for him. He was an old Penin- 
 sular soldier, and I knew him at the terrible 
 storm of Badajoz, then as a young officer in the 
 4th Infantry, where he was wounded. 
 
 Cawnpore, at this time a celebrated place on 
 this side of India, was the principal station 
 both for a large military force and as a resort 
 of the Civil Service, who, with their ladies, 
 made the place very gay. The military there, 
 besides the Lancers, were the 16th British 
 Infantry, a large body of artillery, and several 
 native regiments, of both cavalry and infantry. 
 
 At this season (October, 1835), it was cool 
 and refreshing, and many people came here on 
 a visit to their friends, to pass an agreeable 
 time ; but Cawnpore, for at least six months 
 in the year, is anything but a desirable place : 
 the heat during the so-called summer months 
 is terrible, accompanied by whirlwinds of 
 fine sand from the plain; every house is 
 shut up during the day, and double win- 
 dows, custus tatties, and puncas kept con- 
 stantly going day and night, in order to cool 
 down the heated atmosphere. In this and 
 
198 SOME EEOOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 other respects Meerut is a far more eligible 
 residence, and is so near the Himalayas that an 
 invalid, in thirty hours or so, by dak, reaches 
 them, and a fine climate, to rescue him from 
 the oppression of the hot months. 
 
 It was the intention of the officers of the 
 16th Lancers to celebrate the anniversary of a 
 battle in which they played a stirring part, by 
 a grand ball, and to keep it on for three days — 
 that is, during that time to provide for their 
 guests breakfast, dinner, supper, &c. — and pre- 
 pared for it accordingly ; and no expense was 
 spared in the furnishing and decoration of 
 some acres of ground round their mess-house. 
 This they inclosed by kurnauts, or screens, in 
 the interior of which were marquees pitched, 
 and provided with every luxury possible. 
 
 The appointed time arrived. All the officers 
 of the force and their ladies, together with all 
 the others, ladies and gentlemen, at the station, 
 were present, as well as all the princes and 
 native chiefs around; and when I entered, a 
 magnificent sight presented itself : the dazzling 
 beauty of the scene, the splendid uniforms — for 
 all were in fall dress — ^were unexampled. Here 
 was Scindia, the head of the Mahratta kingdom, 
 dressed in cloth-of-gold covered with precious 
 stones ; the Maharajah Holkar, the Peishwar, 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 199 
 
 and nnmerous other native dignitaries, all re- 
 splendent in dress and jewellery. Here was 
 also, as he was then called, his Highness the 
 Nana Sahib, a powerful-looking man, but I 
 thought there was something sinister and for- 
 bidding in his face. He was noted, both here 
 and at Meerut, for giving grand entertainments 
 to British officers. 
 
 In the sets for dancing there was a good 
 sprinkling of beautiful women, and amongst 
 them was Miss Churchill, well known for her 
 wit and attractive manners, daughter of Colonel 
 Churchill, killed afterwards at Mahrajhpore. 
 This fairy-like fete was spiritedly carried out 
 by Colonel Arnold and his officers, and during 
 the three days it lasted nothing was wanting to 
 make it desirable to remain and to enjoy. 
 
 In thinking upon the reminiscences I have 
 written regarding other days, I am reminded 
 of the great changes that have taken place in 
 India since then, in the last twenty years and 
 upwards, and the principal cause or causes 
 of the dreaful mutiny of the sepoys and natives 
 against our authority in 1857. First, then, 
 was, that the native princes and chiefs were, 
 secretly, always against us. The sepoys, next, 
 were jealous of us, and were indifferently 
 officered and disciplined (with many excep- 
 
200 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 tions*) in this part of India, compared with the 
 Bombay or Madras Presidencies. 
 
 When we conquered Scinde and the Pun- 
 jaub, we very unwisely either sent Europeans 
 on to occupy the conquered countries, or with- 
 drew the force that garrisoned Cawnpore and 
 Meerut. This was taken advantage of by the 
 native chiefs, and conspiracies were formed 
 long before the explosion took place, which 
 ended with great loss of both men and money 
 on our side, and the destruction of hundreds 
 of defenceless women and children. f Every 
 one who has served in India must know 
 the danger of leaving the country denuded of 
 European troops, and therefore to have done 
 so in this combustible part of India was inex- 
 cusable at that time. 
 
 On the termination of this grand fete, I 
 prepared for my journey ; and having now but 
 little use for my horse, I gave him to Mansel, 
 with whom I knew he would be well cared for. 
 And then the parting adieu took place, an 
 
 * The European Bengal Artillery were amongst the best 
 I ever saw, particularly the Horse Artillery, which were 
 unrivalled. 
 
 t When before the enemy with my regiment, my native 
 servant told me he had seen spies in the camp, who had 
 been counting the Europeans present ; they did not mind 
 the native force. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 201 
 
 event wliicli, in some cases, is particularly dis- 
 tressing amongst soldiers, who, from the nature 
 of their duties and the casualties they are 
 subject to, so often part to meej) no more. 
 
 In pursuing our journey downwards, we still 
 bordered the States of Oude, and I had some 
 good shooting, occasionally, at hogs, which 
 I found in great plenty. They are capital 
 eating, especially when their food is vegetable, 
 bulbs and roots procured from the soil they 
 frequent. 
 
 Without any event taking place worthy of 
 notice, we made our way to Allahabad, upwards 
 of two hundred miles from Cawnpore. This is 
 considered by the Hindoos to be a very holy 
 place, from the point of confluence of the 
 Jumna and the Ganges being here. There is 
 seen a distinct line of colour between the two 
 rivers as they glide down together, the one being 
 distinguishable as clear and bluish, the other a 
 yellowish brown ; and so they flow on together 
 for a very considerable distance before ap- 
 pearing to mix their waters. The Hindoos 
 come from very distant places to bathe here ; 
 and in those waters they believe, not only that 
 their bodies are to be healed of any disease 
 they may be subject to, but that their souls also 
 become purified from sin. 
 
202 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 On the headland between the two rivers 
 stands a fort remarkable for its impressive 
 appearance. It is partly modern in its struc- 
 ture outside, having a land-front of fortifica- 
 tion on Yauban's system, erected in other 
 days by the French, the entrance to which is 
 by a very handsome gateway in the Grecian 
 style of architecture. In the inside is rather 
 a confused jumble of temples, tombs, &c., in 
 the usual lofty and massive style of the 
 Hindoos. The town is large, irregular, and 
 very dirty. 
 
 All around, on the banks of the river, pre- 
 sents a singular spectacle; hundreds of pilgrims 
 are seen, going through different forms of 
 ablution and prayer. They at times perform 
 all sorts of absurd antics and ceremonies, 
 flinging themselves about without much regard 
 to prudence or delicacy. Many barbers were 
 running here and there to shave men's heads 
 before bathing, as they believe here that the 
 more the head is shaved, the nearer they are 
 to the joys of paradise, in case of death within 
 a certain time. 
 
 Pursuing my course down the Ganges, I 
 found we got on much more rapidly than higher 
 up. The tide began to have influence, so that, 
 when we had in our favour both wind and tide, 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 203 
 
 the sailing was pleasing, and tlie deeper waters 
 rendered less tlie fear of running on sand- 
 banks. Porpoises from the sea sometimes 
 appeared, and enormous alligators showed 
 themselves, and often had a shot from me. 
 Numerous dead bodies were seen floating down 
 in all manner of shapes, totally nude, as they 
 always are when consigned to the care of this 
 sacred river ; and we soon got to the far-famed 
 sacred city of Benares, about one hundred and 
 fifty miles from Allahabad. Here I was re- 
 solved to remain . for some days ; but, before 
 attempting to describe the interior of the place, 
 I must say something of the marvellous beauty 
 of the scene on our approach to it.* 
 
 The day was closing when, in winding down 
 the river, the Holy City of Benares burst full 
 upon my sight; and never did I behold any 
 place erected by the hands of man so im- 
 pressive. It blended well with the enchanting 
 scenery around, and, illuminated by the golden 
 tints of the setting sun, was reflected by the 
 great river as in a plateau of molten silver. 
 
 Benares is built upon the acclivity of a high 
 sloping bank, spreading over the crest towards 
 
 * Bacon's " Hindostan " gives an excellent description of 
 tMs side of India. His sketches illustrating the scenery- 
 are truly beautiful. 
 
204 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the level country. The greater number of the 
 buildings are temples and religious edifices, and 
 the water's edge is a continued line of ghats, 
 and very handsome, wide stone steps, in various 
 styles of architecture, the designs being almost 
 as different as those of the temples. 
 
 Throughout the whole of this vast Hindoo 
 city, I do not think two temples or two ghats 
 will be found in the same fashion of architec- 
 ture. They are piled up, one above the other, 
 in most elaborate but imposing confusion ; 
 being beautifully decorated, and some fancifully 
 coloured. 
 
 All these buildings belong to the Hindoos, 
 with one exception, and that is a grand one, 
 which attracts immediate notice. It is a large 
 mosque for Moslem worship, the only one in 
 the city, with two beautiful slender minarets of 
 great height, standing above the Hindoo tem- 
 ples with a proud air of superiority. This 
 mosque was built by the famed Aurungzebe, 
 after his capture of Benares, the representative 
 of whom, now shorn of his glory and title of 
 emperor, is the Mzam of Hydrabad. 
 
 The population of Benares is said to be 
 something near eight thousand souls, a small 
 number of whom are Mahomedans. Some of 
 the native merchants are very wealthy, and 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 205 
 
 I belield many shops containing manufactures 
 apparently of immense value : cloths woven 
 with gold and silver, beautiful muslins embroi- 
 dered with the same, besides fringes and orna- 
 ments of every kind. 
 
 Hindoo mythology is better known and more 
 studied here than it is in any other part of 
 India ; but for an Englishman, however learned 
 he may be, to give a correct history of the 
 multitude of idols representing Hindoo worship, 
 is, I really think, impossible. 
 
 Some of the figures displayed in the temples 
 forcibly reminded me of those I saw in Assyria 
 and Egypt : for instance, several idols, bull- 
 headed ; others bearing the fi:*ont of an elephant 
 upon the shoulders of a man, winged figures 
 upon hmbs of men, and horses. Some are 
 to be seen in the mighty caves of Ellora, at 
 Aurungabad (caves and idols hewn out of the 
 solid rock) ; several here are of a black colour, 
 with great extended wings, like a huge bat. In 
 one temple is seen, beautifully cai'ved, a chariot 
 drawn by a horse with six heads. In another 
 temple was a most frightful idol, with some- 
 thing like the face of a man, having several 
 arms encircled, with armlets of serpents. In 
 another temple were seen women performing 
 menial offices to the idol therein worshipped. 
 
206 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 And there were figures of both sexes in other 
 temples, of a most profane character ; but few 
 I was allowed to visit, and those few, with 
 their idols, were mostly all incarnations of the 
 powers of Brahma, the Great Eternal, showing 
 his attributes through Yishnu, the saving, and 
 Siva, the destroying power of his creation. 
 
 Here the sacred books of Shasters of the 
 Hindoos were, day and night, read aloud in the 
 temples, and sometimes were beautifully sung 
 and intoned. All the menial offices of the 
 Brahmin priests were performed by women 
 appointed to those temples, who were not 
 allowed to mix with their own sex, or with 
 any one else, out of them. The beautiful 
 Mahomedan mosque I was desirous to visit, 
 but, as it was a feast-time, I was not per- 
 mitted. 
 
 I happened to meet a gentleman of the civil 
 service, in my wandering about, whom I knew, 
 and he told me he was very much perplexed 
 how to act in a case of suttee, or wife-burning 
 with a deceased husband. He knew the 
 parties. The husband was a young landholder 
 of his district, and died suddenly. They were 
 people of high caste, and the young and hand- 
 some widow was determined to burn with the 
 man of her choice, nor could any persuasion on 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 207 
 
 my friend's part prevent it. I was curious to 
 see this tragedy, and as lie was resolved to be 
 present to the last and urge the widow against 
 it, I asked and obtained leave to accompany 
 him at the appointed time. 
 
 We followed a crowd of natives surrounding 
 a hackery, or car, led by Brahmins (all were 
 highly excited), to the banks of the river, some 
 way from the city, where the sacrifice was to 
 take place.* When they stopped, my friend, 
 the young judge, descended with me from his 
 carriage and approached to the inner party, 
 where I beheld a very beautiful creature 
 standing — the devoted wife. The judge ex- 
 horted the lady to withdraw along with him 
 and her relations, but all in vain. The Brah- 
 mins then speedily placed faggots beside the 
 pile ; the wife took leave of her father, mother, 
 and friends, giving them all the costly jewels 
 she wore. She then ascended the pile, placing 
 herself beside the body of her husband, smiling 
 as she gazed upon him ; then, taking a burning 
 faggot from a Brahmin, she, with undaunted 
 courage, set fire to the pile herself. A dense 
 mass of smoke and flame arose and hid her from 
 our sight; in a short time the whole fell inwards, 
 
 * A similar case is mentioned in Mr. Coleman's work on 
 Indian Mythology. 
 
208 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and both living and dead were consumed to 
 ashes. I felt sick, and rather faint, at this 
 dreadful ceremony ; and when I returned to 
 the carriage, both the judge and I were much 
 relieved by a small dose of brandy he had ready 
 in his case. 
 
 We again continued our voyage, and got to 
 Ghazepore in five days, and had much difficulty 
 in getting out of the way of numerous sand- 
 banks. The windings of the river render the 
 distance from Benares (about forty miles) nearly 
 double. 
 
 Ghazepore has ever been celebrated for the 
 growth of its rose-trees. Here are large fields 
 of them, and the sweet flowers are cultivated 
 for the manufacture of rose-water, the scent 
 of which is so very delicious, and its cooling 
 properties such a relief in warm climates. All 
 attempts, however, to consolidate the juice 
 into attar entirely fail, as, on exposure to 
 the air, the attar immediately liquefies. The 
 town, although large, has nothing very striking 
 about it; hke most other Indian towns, it 
 is dirty in the interior and narrow in the 
 streets. There are extensive barracks, and 
 sometimes a regiment of Europeans is quar- 
 tered here. 
 
 Ten miles further on we made Dinapore, a 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT. -COLONEL NEYILL. 209 
 
 large military station and a flourishing place, 
 as there is a good trade carried on of all kinds, 
 native and European. The native workmen 
 are very expert in their imitation of any 
 European article : give them but a '' muster," 
 as they call it, of what you want made, and 
 the tradesman whose business it is copies it to 
 a nicety. A shoemaker will stand before you, 
 and either sell you ready-made boots or shoes, 
 or take your measure for the same : if boots, 
 the charge will be two rupees ; if shoes, under 
 one. I here bought twenty pounds of excellent 
 wax candles for less than eight rupees, and all 
 other things are equally cheap. 
 
 There were a good number of European 
 gentlemen and ladies residing here, of both 
 civil and military services, and a tolerable 
 sprinkling of fashionable young ladies from 
 home ; many of these last being on their way 
 to friends stationed in the Upper Provinces, 
 all eager to see the new comers and the newest 
 fashions from England. 
 
 The scenery all along the river from Bhagul- 
 poor to the Rajmahal hills, which bound the 
 horizon, is exceedingly picturesque and beau- 
 tiful. The whole district, for hundreds of miles, 
 appears highly cultivated, and is considered 
 the richest land in our possession. 
 
 p 
 
210 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Our every-day life was much the same, and 
 I began to wish very much to get to Calcutta 
 for a change of scene. From what my manji 
 told me regarding the people residing in the 
 hills we were approaching, I resolved, when 
 passing, to land and pay them a temporary 
 visit ; and, when the time came, I sallied forth, 
 accompanied by my servant and a couple of 
 boatmen. It was early morning, and there- 
 fore, before the sun arose, we got some 
 miles on the hills, in the province of Orissa. 
 Having had our breakfast, we approached one 
 of the villages, and met both men and women 
 perfectly distinct in appearance, manners, and 
 habits from those of the plains we had just left. 
 They speak a different language, which was 
 understood by one of my boatmen, who had for 
 some time resided amongst them, and to whom 
 they said, " We dislike the low-country people 
 so much, that we seldom or never go down to 
 buy anything. The people below, at certain 
 times in the year, visit us with grain or cattle ; 
 we pay for whatever we purchase, but there our 
 intercourse ceases . ' ' 
 
 These people are exceedingly primitive in 
 their habits, and possess also a simplicity of 
 character very remote from the inhabitants of 
 the low countries, being averse to cunning, 
 
LIPE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 211 
 
 tlieft, and lying — tlie three chief accompHsh- 
 ments of the common classes of black men. 
 
 The men, like all highlanders, are muscular, 
 and infinitely finer than any I have seen since 
 my sojourn in the Punjaub. The women 
 are light- coloured, and freely showed them- 
 selves to us while conversing. They pay'for 
 anything bought by them generally in quantities 
 of delicious honey, some of the hill grain, and 
 charcoal. 
 
 Having had our curry under a friendly tree 
 hard by the village, we prepared for our return 
 to the boat as evening closed. Next morning 
 we proceeded, and were carried down this 
 mighty river rapidly, a fine breeze blowing in 
 our favour, until we came to a channel or 
 branch of the Hoogly running into the Ganges, 
 which here expanded in width to nearly three 
 miles ; and the appearance of this expanse of 
 water, studded here and there with small 
 islands, or banks covered with verdure, was 
 most striking and picturesque. It is to be 
 remarked that a description of the Ganges and 
 its branches must not be impHcitly relied on, 
 as the banks on both sides are continually 
 shifting, so that a village overlooking the water 
 this season may be far distant from it next 
 season, or, vice versa, the remains of it may be 
 
 p 2 
 
212 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 in tlie stream itself. In cities or large towns 
 close to the river are raised barriers of wood, 
 and earth within well rammed down; but 
 even these, in stormy weather, are broken or 
 forced away — such is the power of the current 
 and the uncertainty of the foundation, exposing 
 the' town to inundation. 
 
 Eajhmahal, which we passed, is one of the 
 most interesting places, from its antiquity, on 
 the river. Two hundred years are gone since 
 it was the splendid capital of the Mahomedans 
 on this side of the East. There are yet to be 
 seen vast and splendid ruins, showing the mag- 
 nificence of other days. Interspersed amongst 
 them are stately waving bamboos and other 
 trees, some of large growth ; but the gateway 
 of Eajhmahal, still nearly perfect, from its 
 lofty dimensions and singular beauty, is un- 
 rivalled. 
 
 There exists, in a tract of country to the 
 south-west of the Eajhmahal hills, forming the 
 northern boundary of the province of Orissa, 
 a wild and savage race, called Koles. The 
 district they inhabit is very desolate and un- 
 productive, parts of it being intersected by 
 deep ravines and watercourses, and overrun 
 with impenetrable jungle. Its climate is most 
 pestilential, and seldom or never visited even 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 213 
 
 by sportsmen, although it is said to abound in 
 game of all kinds. 
 
 There is scarcely any cultivation of the soil, 
 and the inhabitants appear, like the Goands on 
 the hills around Nagpoor, to perform it in the 
 most primitive and uncivilized fashion, the 
 natives being too ignorant and stupid to profit 
 by example, and too superstitious to venture 
 upon any innovation upon their esta*blished 
 usages, or to desire improvement of any kind. 
 They are athletic and strong in appearance, of 
 very dark complexion, with coarse lips and 
 savage features, indicating much similarity to 
 some of the African tribes. In temper they 
 are sullen, tyrannical, and revengeful towards 
 each other, without the restriction of any 
 religion, their nearest approach to it being 
 superstition in its foulest forms; and slaves 
 to a fermented liquor, which they prepare from 
 the cocoanut. The most revolting part of 
 their savage conduct exists in the indiscriminate 
 marriages, which usually take place between 
 members of the same family, and the total 
 neglect of the other decencies of life, which are 
 so strictly observed by the neighbouring Hin- 
 doos, with whom they sometimes come in 
 contact, though only for the purpose of pur- 
 
214 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 cliasing arrack,* witli which they return home, 
 and never cease to drink until thej are in a 
 brutal state of intoxication. 
 
 They must be the descendants from some 
 savage people, but how or by what means they 
 came to be where they are now located, no 
 record of any kind exists to tell the story. 
 This people are detested by all the other natives 
 of this' side of India, who call them Cafres and 
 infidels of a very bad kind. 
 
 It was now December, and as we were 
 progressing satisfactorily towards Calcutta, I 
 certainly felt right glad to be near my long 
 journey's end; still I must give a sort of 
 general description of what was so strikingly 
 beautiful on my passage down the river. We 
 passed many large towns and military sta- 
 tions without stopping. The scenery, of the 
 character which I have before described, was 
 sometimes very fine, at other times with inter- 
 vening wastes of sandy plains. We had a fair 
 wind and fine weather nearly all the way down ; 
 and, to sum up, the very many picturesque 
 views which are to be met with cannot fail to 
 fill one with wonder and delight, and furnish 
 the artist with never-failing examples of ex- 
 * Distillation from rice. 
 
LIJFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 215 
 
 quisite forms of colouring, and of light and 
 shade. The confused pile of buildings in a 
 native city ; the lofty gateways and massive 
 granite walls, with deep mouldings and quaint 
 decorations; the broad ghats, or flights of 
 steps, from the water to the temples, in every 
 form of Eastern architecture, skirted by the 
 low dingy habitations of the poorer classes, 
 have a grotesque but wonderfully imposing air, 
 and present an extraordinary combination of 
 the grand and elegant, together with that which 
 is mean and unsightly. 
 
 Again, the banks afford exquisite little speci- 
 mens of the beautiful in a more simple and 
 homely character. The ruined tomb, or the 
 peasant's mud hut, sheltered by an overhanging 
 tamarind-tree or the matted banyan, is thrown 
 into quiet repose by the coolness of the shadow 
 opposing the warm evening lights. 
 
 To all these local beauties add the graceful 
 palm and lofty cocoanut, the thickly-clustered 
 pepul, the feathery jhynt, and spreading mango, 
 which lend a peculiar grace, quite novel to the 
 eye of the new comer. Then, again, may be 
 seen the broad undulating plain, or wide ex- 
 panse of lake, lit up with the vivid accidental 
 lights and shadows of a tropical sky. 
 
 The City of Palaces was now fully in sight, 
 
216 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and it was impossible not to be struck with tlie 
 quiet beauty of the scenery. Before coming 
 to it, the shores were uninteresting, and 
 devoid of trees, which made the contrast more 
 imposing. The banks rose before us, bold and 
 richly clad with varied foliage ; here and there 
 handsome houses, seen jutting from the cover 
 of the trees, were becoming more and more 
 numerous; and Garden-reach presents a regular 
 succession of magnificent viUas and mansions, 
 with parks and pleasure-grounds laid out in 
 such a style that could not fail to give the 
 traveller an idea of the owners' luxury and 
 wealth. 
 
 Fort "William now opens on the view, its 
 green ramparts surmounted by numerous artil- 
 lery, which, together with the regularity of its 
 fortifications and the height and handsome 
 appearance of its barracks, gives it an air of 
 great importance, much aided by a very broad 
 esplanade, beyond which is the city of Calcutta. 
 The scene is very noble, and novel in its charac- 
 ter, to any one seeing it for the first time. 
 
 The grand structures forming the residences 
 of the ofiicial civil authorities, together with 
 the palace of the Viceroy, or Governor- General, 
 besides being in a style of architecture very 
 difierent from what is to be seen in Europe, are 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 217 
 
 most of them surpassing in splendour those 
 seen there. Add to this the shipping and 
 innumerable smaller vessels upon the water, 
 the whole effect is wonderfully picturesque and 
 striking. 
 
 But Calcutta and its environs are now so 
 familiar and well known by numerous writers, 
 that a further detailed account is unnecessary. 
 
 Having previously despatched a note to Ali- 
 pore, the seat of Sir Charles Metcalfe, I received, 
 in return, one from his Excellency's secretary, 
 saying that Sir Charles had not arrived yet, 
 but that apartments had been provided for me, 
 that every attention should be paid on my 
 arrival, and that a palanquin had been de- 
 spatched to the nearest ghat on the river to take 
 me there. Accordingly, at my last anchorage, 
 I sent my servant forward, who found the 
 palkee ; and having had my last breakfast on 
 board, and settled all things relating to the 
 boat, &c., I started for Alipore, where I arrived 
 in due course about tifl&n, or lunch-time. Here 
 I met some gentlemen at table, guests of Sir 
 Charles, awaiting his arrival; and I had the 
 pleasure of hearing all the news of passing 
 events, and of the new arrivals from England. 
 I was obliged to be content with the anticipated 
 pleasure of meeting them and some very hand- 
 
218 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 some young ladies, whom I liad not yet seen, 
 but wlio were expected to grace Government 
 House on tlie first reception held there after 
 his Excellency's arrival, and the usual evening 
 party, which was to be held in the afternoon of 
 a day appointed for the purpose. 
 
 I believe a great deal of our happiness con- 
 sists in variety, or in passing from one scene 
 to another. Thus, for instance, nothing could 
 well be more difierent from the gay and plea- 
 surable life I had led at Cawnpore than the dull 
 monotony I was about to lead for some months 
 on board a boat to Calcutta, and yet I felt 
 pleasure in the latter, being aided by my books, 
 shooting, fishing, and sketching, together with 
 some exciting scenes on my way down the river. 
 Those resources failed in a great measure to 
 interest me, and when again brought into 
 pleasing and enjoyable society, it felt, as it 
 were, going from one extreme to another ; but 
 then it was also especially exhilarating and 
 agreeable. 
 
 Some days after. Sir Charles Metcalfe arrived, 
 and, as the Governor- General was still in the 
 Upper Provinces, Sir Charles was to act for 
 him in every capacity regarding the government 
 of the Lower Provinces. There was soon after 
 held a levee for all the officials and military 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 219 
 
 oflficers either serving in garrison here or on 
 leave, and, amongst the rest, I made mj bow, 
 and had a card sent me next day to attend an 
 evening party, ending with a ball and supper. 
 On the •12th of December the time duly ar- 
 rived, and we — that is, the Acting Governor- 
 General, his suite, and guests — set oflf from 
 Alipore, where we had previously a grand 
 dinner, to Government House, a most splendid 
 mansion. People who have never been in 
 India can have no idea of the splendour and 
 magnificence shown in buildings like this. The 
 marble halls, the immense lofty rooms, and the 
 ventilation so necessary to comfort in so warm 
 a country, are here carried out to perfection. 
 Then, when you arrive, how striking and 
 delightful is the scene : the suites of native 
 servants ranged tastefully around the rooms, 
 arrayed in their snow-white muslin dresses, 
 headed by their leaders, with silver badges of 
 distinction; gentlemen and officers in full dress, 
 and here and there, also, groups of English- 
 women, some very handsome, the ladies ele- 
 gantly attired in their newest ball-dress from 
 London — all smiles and sweetness, waiting for 
 their partners in the dance — form a sight, on 
 entering, seldom or never seen in other parts 
 of the world. 
 
220 SOME EEOOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 The Governor- General's band and the gar- 
 rison band were in attendance, and in the first 
 quadrille, Sir Charles Metcalfe, all good-humour 
 and kindness, opened the ball. In due course, 
 this was followed by waltzes and gallops. Did 
 you need anything, a simple sign to a servant 
 was enough to get it, and all went on happily — 
 
 And bright 
 The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; 
 A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when 
 Music arose, with its voluptuous swell, 
 Soft eyes looked love to eyes which spake again, 
 And all went merry as a marriage bell. 
 
 At length supper was announced, when we 
 handed our partners, and also took our places, 
 to share the luxuries that surrounded us. 
 
LirE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 221 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 1836—1842. 
 
 HAVING- ascertained that the passenger- 
 ships did not sail for Europe until the 
 latter part of January or beginning of Feb- 
 ruary, I secured a cabin on board one of Mr. 
 Green's fine ships for England. As I had been 
 living with Sir Charles Metcalfe for some time, 
 I thought it but right to bid him farewell, and 
 remove to the United Service Club, there to 
 pass the remainder of my time, and amuse 
 myself how I could, until the ship sailed. 
 
 On taking an affectionate leave of Sir Charles, 
 he kindly expressed a hope of seeing me again, 
 but I had not that pleasure. On his return to 
 Europe, some time afterwards, his first-rate 
 talents being well known, he was appointed 
 Governor- General of Jamaica and the West 
 Indies, then in a fearful state of disturbance, 
 and which he quieted with his usual ability. 
 He was most justly rewarded with a peerage, 
 but, unfortunately for his country, he died 
 soon after. 
 
222 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 I found the United Service Club good, com- 
 fortable, and reasonable in its charges. It 
 had also the appliances usually considered ne- 
 cessary to make it a desirable place to live in, 
 particularly for a newly-arrived traveller from 
 the interior of the country. While residing 
 here, I occasionally visited some friends, and 
 passed a few agreeable days, at Garden-reach, 
 in a delightful residence. From thence I went 
 to the Botanical Garden, which was well kept 
 and in high order, and decidedly worth a visit ; 
 but I suppose it is now so well known that any 
 description of it and of its manifold productions 
 would be superfluous. 
 
 At the Chowringee theatre there were some 
 pleasing actors, and, although they were not 
 first-rate, still some of Colman's plays were 
 creditably performed. 
 
 I had heard so much of the great pagoda of 
 Juggurnaut, on the coast, that I was resolved 
 to pay it a visit before leaving. 
 
 Juggurnaut is one of the numerous titles 
 of the preserving deity, Yishnu, and signifies 
 " supreme in the world." The temple is close 
 to an ancient town upon the coast of Orissa, 
 which is most desolate in appearance. It is, 
 in fact, a succession of sandhills, without a 
 particle of vegetation, and presents to the 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 223 
 
 beholder a melancholy sight. The town is not 
 visible from the sea, but on the north side of 
 the temple, which is seen at a great distance 
 everywhere, there are a few bungalows, which 
 form the European station, and these appear 
 half buried in the sand. They, however, get 
 the sea-breeze, which is a luxury in the hot 
 season. The surf breaking on the shore is 
 very great, and the massulah-boats, so useful 
 on the Madras coast, are to be found here 
 also. 
 
 The pagoda forms an excellent landmark to 
 mariners on this coast. There is another 
 pagoda, called " The Black Pagoda," which 
 has a most uncouth appearance, and often 
 causes mistakes to vessels approaching it. 
 The Brahmins' tradition says that Juggurnaut 
 is about four thousand years old. It is dedi- 
 cated to Krishna* or Yishnu, Mahadhu or Siva, 
 and Subhadra or Kalli. 
 
 The three figures are rough and ugly, being 
 deficient of arms, and the faces are most absurd, 
 both in form and in painting. The car in which 
 these figures are drawn seems upwards of sixty 
 
 * There is a river so called, sacred to Krishna, dividing 
 the Nizam's dominions from our territories south of that 
 stream. 
 
224 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 feet in height, daubed with paint. Yishnu, the 
 preserving power in Hindoo mythology, is 
 commonly represented as having a serpent 
 in his grasp, extended over his head, and 
 reaching to the ground ; and the figure is tram- 
 pling on the head of the reptile — a curious sort 
 of corroboration of our primeval tradition. 
 Siva, the destroying deity, is drawn with a 
 serpent about his head, the hood of the 
 reptile protruding above it. Kalli is the 
 female personation of Siva, on whose altars 
 thousands have been voluntary victims, until 
 the great exertions of our Government sup- 
 pressed these sacrifices, many years ago. 
 Altogether, the whole scene is most gro- 
 tesque, and extraordinary in a high degree; 
 and it is revolting to think to what an extent 
 infatuation can be carried in the minds of men 
 of this faith. I was not sorry to quit the place 
 and return to Calcutta. 
 
 Having received notice from my agent that 
 the ship in which he had engaged a passage for 
 me was, without fail, to sail on the 2nd of 
 February, I went ofi* to her on the evening 
 before, accompanied by my servant and things. 
 I found the vessel, which was a very fine one, 
 surrounded with boats, in which were very 
 many ladies and gentlemen, waiting their turn 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 225 
 
 to be helped on board with their respective 
 baggage. It was nearly dark before my turn 
 came, when I scrambled on deck, and having got 
 my effects to my cabin, left my servant and 
 another man there to arrange it and my cot for 
 sleeping, and went to the cuddy for refreshment, 
 not having had any since breakfast. There I 
 found a number of very young girls going home 
 to be educated, sitting round a tea-urn and 
 waiting to be served. The seat opposite it 
 being the only one vacant, I sate down and had 
 pretty good employment for nearly an hour 
 before I was able to take anything for myself, 
 and was pressed hard for tea — one saying, 
 *' Please, sir, my cup comes next ; Lizzie has 
 got a cup before her turn," and " Jenny has 
 spilled her tea and scalded her mouth, and must 
 wait her turn for the next " — and so on. How- 
 ever, I took it all patiently, and got something 
 at last, luckily before the elders crowded in. On 
 the juniors retiring, I was soon glad to retire 
 myself. 
 
 In a few days, the passengers got things 
 pretty right ; we began to feel more comfort- 
 able, and were all told off to our respective 
 places at the cuddy table. The captain ap- 
 peared a pleasing and agreeable man, and the 
 ship, which sailed on the morning of the 2nd, 
 
 Q 
 
226 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 was well manned and served, so we all hoped 
 for tlie best on our passage home. 
 
 At this time of the year there is generally a 
 fair wind from the east, and fine weather, in a 
 home direction, and we were fortunate enough 
 to have both in perfection. On we went through 
 the Bay of Bengal right merrily and happily. 
 There were only two dissatisfied people among 
 us, grumbling at everything. With this excep- 
 tion, notwithstanding our numbers, we got on 
 very well together ; the captain was especially 
 good-natured, and very fond of children : he 
 got up Httle dances for them on the quarter- 
 deck. In this pastime I always joined, and 
 hence I became a favourite with them. The 
 coming heat told of our near approach to the 
 line, which we crossed in a few days, being only 
 inconvenienced by a heavy squall and some 
 torrents of rain, which soaked some things ex- 
 posed to it. Amongst the rest, my cabin was 
 swamped, the window of which I had left open, 
 it being a sultry night, and I was rather dis- 
 agreeably awakened by a dash of sea entering 
 and pouring a bath upon me, and wetting 
 everything in the cabin. 
 
 I exerted myself to clear out the water, and 
 on opening my boxes found them pretty dry. 
 As they were all secured, I did not think, at the 
 
LIFE Of LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 227 
 
 time, of a lower box, containing some books, 
 my sketches and journals, and wlien I did, 
 some days afterwards, found them utterly spoilt ; 
 the sketches quite a soft pulp : this was from a 
 small quantity of water having remained in a 
 corner of my cabin, where this box lay, and 
 caused the mischief. We cannot at all times 
 help these small accidents, so I thought it best 
 to be reconciled to my lot, though at first I was 
 very much vexed at it. 
 
 It is needless to enter into the usual every- 
 day incidents that occurred on board during our 
 passage home, which was accomplished in less 
 than four months. We landed at Portsmouth, 
 all well, and on my arrival in London, received 
 orders to take charge of the depot of the 63rd, 
 my new regiment, at Chatham, in July, 1836. 
 
 This depot required a good deal of attention 
 to get into order. Drilling young recruits and 
 looking after them was constantly required, and 
 I remained at this work, with short intervals of 
 leave, about two years. An order at last came 
 to be ready to embark, in charge of a large 
 body of troops, including the soldiers of my 
 regiment, for the East, which in nowise 
 displeased me, being heartily tired of home 
 service. 
 
 We embarked in June, 1838, on board the 
 Q 2 
 
228 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Mount-Stuart Elphinstone, Captain Jolly, for 
 Burmali. The Tenasserim provinces of that 
 empire had been recently ceded to us by the 
 sovereign of that country, and it was there that 
 the 63rd Regiment was stationed. 
 
 We had a fair average passage, and arrived 
 off Moulmein, the chief town of the above pro- 
 vinces, in the latter end of the year. Here I 
 found my very old friend and brother cam- 
 paigner, Colonel Logan, in command of the 
 63rd Eegiment, which he had in excellent 
 order, and we were received by him with great 
 kindness. 
 
 As the Burmese Government had shown 
 every disposition to be hostile, we had in these 
 districts a pretty strong force, consisting of the 
 62nd and 63rd British, and four regiments, 
 regular and irregular, of the Indian service, 
 with two batteries of European artillery, all 
 under Brigade- General Hillier; a frigate, off 
 the port, and two sloops of war, under Captain 
 Kuper, Royal JSTavy ; so we were prepared for 
 any attack either by land or sea. 
 
 The Burmese appear a fine warlike people, 
 their war-boats beautifully constructed, and are 
 rowed by their crews with vigour and consider- 
 able skill. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 229 
 
 As the Burmese outposts were in some force 
 at the town of Martaban, opposite to us, about 
 half a mile across the Tenasserim river, we 
 had strong pickets posted at eligible points, 
 on the look-out, and boats from our squadron, 
 manned and armed, in readiness to meet 
 any sudden attack that might be made upon 
 us. 
 
 At this time we were at war with China, 
 with whom the Burmese Government were in 
 alhance. 
 
 Our forces, both naval and military, led an 
 agreeable, I may say, jolly life, dining with 
 each other, alternately, and ever on the most 
 friendly terms. The climate we found healthy, 
 and by no means so hot as the plains of 
 India ; but when the monsoon sets in, the 
 rain pours down a continuous stream for 
 months, so constant, that confinement in doors 
 is a matter of course, and people must amuse 
 themselves the best way they can. The houses, 
 although built of wood, being raised from the 
 ground two or three feet, on piles, and walled 
 and thatched with matting, perfectly exclude 
 wet, and are warm and comfortable. On the 
 whole, we found this station much to be pre- 
 ferred before most places in India; here, as 
 
230 SOME EECOLLECTTONS IN THE 
 
 there, the finest scenery prevails, and the trees 
 are of great size ; the bamboo-tree, in particu- 
 lar, rises to a towering height : the top and 
 branches, bending downwards in graceful and 
 wavy folds, are beautiful in the extreme. The 
 religious houses, dedicated to Budh, are most 
 picturesque buildings ; their exquisitely formed 
 spires, and pennants floating from them, in 
 honour of this religion, are very striking to 
 look upon. 
 
 Fires are of frequent occurrence amongst the 
 native villages, from the inflammable nature of 
 the houses, and the British troops are always 
 employed to extinguish them, which is some- 
 times veiy hard work. 
 
 The Chinese war continued to prove favour- 
 able to our arms, which in all probability pre- 
 vented the Emperor of Burmah from attacking 
 us, and our time passed on pretty much as usual, 
 as far as duty was concerned, and several years 
 rolled over happily enough, the ofiicers pro- 
 curing leave for short periods, to visit the 
 interior of the country, or on sporting excur- 
 sions. 
 
 We all had Pegu ponies, which are ad- 
 mirable animals for racing, their speed, for 
 their size, being wonderful. They afforded us 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 231 
 
 mucli amusement, and some of our spare time 
 was occupied in training them. 
 
 In the beginning of the year 1840 I got leave 
 to accompany Drs. Woodford and Moreton, of 
 the Indian service, on a tour up one of the 
 rivers of this country, running towards Siam, 
 from the seacoast, called the Attaran, which 
 had not yet been explored by any European, the 
 banks of which river were said to abound with 
 curious animals and birds of great beauty. 
 
 We had two boats — one large one for our 
 own accommodation, covered with a bamboo 
 awning, and well fitted up with berths, tables, 
 &c., the fore part being occupied by the boat- 
 men ; the other boat was a smaller one, for 
 cooking, &c. 
 
 On the 3rd of March we left Moulmein, and 
 proceeded for several days up the river with the 
 tide, shooting many birds of handsome plumage 
 on the way. Dr. Woodford was a naturalist, 
 and on the evening of each day we landed, dined, 
 and then commenced preparing our birds for 
 stufl&ng. 
 
 On the morning of the 10th the scenery on 
 the right bank of the river burst upon us with 
 great magnificence — rocks, in Alpine beauty, 
 running upwards three or four hundred feet, 
 
232 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 here and there studded with flowering shrubs, 
 covered with red and white blossoms, and ever- 
 greens of every size and colour, behind which 
 the reflection of the sun appeared as a blaze of 
 beauty. This enchanting scenery lasted the 
 whole day — ^we stopped to admire it. 
 
 At another time, as evening closed, we saw 
 a wide chasm in a rock, surrounded by festoons 
 of creeping plants exactly hke a Gothic window 
 of the largest size ; and at night we became 
 impressed with the idea that a mighty range 
 of grotesque buildings stretched out before us, 
 while the river, lit up by the moon in silvery 
 brightness, wound round the rock, which we 
 called Cathedral Rock. 
 
 The next day we were again on our way, 
 when we fell in with a set of gipsies, called 
 here Careens, a wandering people. They 
 have no fixed residence like their tribe in 
 other places, living a sort of pastoral life, and 
 looked contented and happy. 
 
 Shot some wild duck and moorfowl. Pea- 
 cocks used now and then to show themselves, 
 but the jungle on each side of the river was so 
 thick that we could not get at them. 
 
 We were above the influence of the tide some 
 sixty miles, and now it was seen how well the 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 233 
 
 boatmen used their oars, pulling against the 
 stream. 
 
 For the last two days we had much rain 
 and stormy weather, after which it cleared up. 
 We had now got up about eighty miles, and 
 the climate was mild and invigorating. 
 
 We heard the lowing of the wild cow and 
 buffalo, and saw several large hogs rooting in 
 the ground, but they were too wary to let us 
 come within shot. We had now sometimes to 
 ascend rapids, and the boatmen used to drag 
 us up them in shallow water. The stream 
 ascended many small but charming islands, 
 covered with wood and prickly shrubs and 
 flowers, showing sometimes tiny, grassy plains. 
 Indeed, the scenery was very charming. 
 
 On the 16th we came upon a party of Careens 
 employed in charge of elephants, which are 
 trained to guide teak timber down to the 
 Tenasserim provinces. These elephants used 
 to direct the timber in the river, so as to clear 
 rocks and rapids ; and it was most interesting 
 to see with what skill the sagacious animals 
 performed their task. 
 
 About the islands were numerous birds of the 
 kingfisher species, various in size and colour, 
 some white, dotted with black spots ; others 
 
234 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 were green, red, and blue ; others, again, black, 
 streaked with red — these were the most beau- 
 tiful. The fly-catcher was also in abundance, 
 generally of a dusky red, with long tail-feathers 
 and speckled throats. 
 
 The teak-tree in these forests grows to a 
 great size, and is well known to be the most 
 valuable timber in the East, no white ant 
 or other noxious reptile being able to prey 
 upon it. 
 
 Monkeys abound everywhere, of all kinds 
 and sizes, and occasionally the pretty white 
 monkey is seen with its tufted head. The 
 Careens told our servants that sometimes a 
 tribe of monkeys would emigrate to other parts 
 of the forest, and, in settling down on the part 
 they fixed upon, were often attacked by 
 others having previous possession, and that 
 a battle ensued, causing the death and injury 
 of many of them before the weaker party gave 
 way. 
 
 We thus proceeded, enjoying ourselves very 
 much, and, indeed, few excursions were attended 
 with the same satisfaction to all engaged. Thus 
 we went on until the morning of the 1 8th, when 
 we perceived, above a high bank, an open space 
 of some extent, on and about which we saw 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 235 
 
 peafowl and jungle-fowl in plenty. Here we 
 proposed to remain a few days, when a very 
 melanclioly eatastroplie brought our tour to an 
 unexpected close. 
 
 In proceeding to give an account of the 
 untimely death of one of our party, I cannot 
 do better than give a *' report" of the event, 
 forwarded as soon afterwards as possible to my 
 commanding officer, and which was published 
 in the Moulmein Chronicle, of the 1st of April, 
 1840. It was to the following effect : — 
 
 "We have been permitted to publish the 
 following letter from Captain Nevill, of Her 
 Majesty's 63rd Eegiment, addressed to Lieut.- 
 Colonel Logan, commanding that regiment, re- 
 porting the particulars of the melancholy fate 
 which befel Dr. Woodford, on the 18th of March 
 last, as announced in our last number. 
 
 " The party consisted of Captain Nevill, Dr. 
 Woodford, and Dr. Moreton, Honourable Com- 
 pany's service ; the former attached to Her 
 Majesty's 63rd Regiment. 
 
 " The latter gentleman appears to have had 
 an almost miraculous escape from meeting with 
 a similar fate ; indeed, though the circumstance 
 is not dwelt on in Captain ISTeviU's report, yet 
 
236 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 there is every reason to believe that Dr. 
 Moreton's safety resulted from the firmness 
 and intelligence displayed by that officer in 
 these very trying circumstances. 
 
 " A more appalling situation cannot well be 
 imagined than that in which Captain JSTevill was 
 placed, with one of his companions at the point 
 of death and the other wandering in the jungle 
 in the night, 'with the roars of tigers distinctly 
 heard around him. To the happy thought of 
 firing the jungle may Dr. Moreton's safety be 
 ascribed, for we understand that that gentle- 
 man had gone so far from the river's bank as 
 not to have heard the shots and shouts of 
 Captain JSTeviU's party, while he distinctly heard 
 the roars of tigers in different directions, 
 and at one time found himself close to one of 
 those animals. We have understood that the 
 party had been previously warned by some 
 natives to beware of the spot where they had 
 put up for the evening, as it was known to be 
 infested by tigers ; and, if this be the case, we 
 would point out to all future explorers of the 
 jungle the danger of deriding any advice they 
 may receive from the natives of the country, 
 who must be well acquainted with any dangers 
 that exist, and whose advice is tendered to them 
 
LIFE OF LTEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 237 
 
 witli kindness, and friendly attention to their 
 safety. 
 
 *' The friends of Dr. Woodford must be 
 gratefal to Captain IS'evill for his success in 
 bringing his remains to town, there to be laid 
 in consecrated ground. They were interred on 
 the evening of the 28th ultimo, with military 
 honours, attended by the brigadier in command 
 of the troops, the Commissioner of the Pro- 
 vinces, and all the ofiicers of the station, civil 
 and military, by whom Dr. "Woodford was much 
 esteemed and respected." 
 
 EEPOHT. 
 
 " Kight bank of the Attaran Kiver, 19tli of March, 
 1840, about one hundred miles from Moulmein 
 by the course of the stream. 
 
 " SlE, 
 
 ''It is in deep sorrow I have to announce to 
 you the melancholy death of Dr. Woodford, 
 in consequence of being struck down by a tiger 
 while shooting in the teak forest here, the 
 particulars of which are as follows : — 
 
 " I had just come in from fishing in the river 
 close by where we dined, at about 6 p.m. on the 
 18th instant, when I saw Dr. Woodford stagger 
 towards me. He said, 'Nevill, I have been 
 
238 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 struck down by a tiger, and am a dead man.' 
 He then fell to the ground. 
 
 " I instantly had him removed into our boat, 
 and called for Dr. Moreton, who had just before 
 gone out. On my administering some brandy- 
 and- water, Dr. Woodford somewhat recovered, 
 and stated that, seeing peafowl near him, he took 
 his gun and proceeded to them ; he heard a roar 
 close to him, and, on turning his head, saw a tiger 
 in the act of springing upon him ; he turned, 
 fired, and was rolled over by the tiger, but the 
 beast, being probably frightened by the fire, 
 dropped him and retired. 
 
 " Dr. Moreton not returning, I began to fear 
 that he had shared the fate of our comrade ; 
 however, I assembled our boatmen and servants, 
 armed them with what I could, and proceeded 
 in quest of him, firing shots at intervals, to let 
 him know assistance was at hand, but without 
 avail, and I gave him up for lost. I had seen 
 two tigers together from the river, and it was 
 this that made me hurry to my fi^iends to tell 
 them of it. 
 
 " Seeing nothing further to be done, I set fire 
 to the jungle, remaining as near as I could to 
 it. At half-past ten o'clock I heard a voice in 
 the distance calling for help, when, strange to 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 239 
 
 relate, there was Dr. Moreton, perched in a tree 
 near the fire, whom we rescued quite uninjured. 
 He stated that in walking out early in the 
 evening, he had lost himself, to get out of the 
 way of a tiger he saw close to him, and ascended 
 the tree for safety. He hastened to render 
 assistance to our companion, but at once pro- 
 nounced his case to be hopeless, from the serious 
 injury he had received, and towards the morning 
 of the 19th he expired in great agony. 
 
 " I have the honour to be. Sir, 
 
 *' Your very obedient Servant, 
 
 " (Signed) Percy P. Nevill, 
 
 " Capt. H.M. Q3rd Regt. 
 
 " To Lieut.-Colonel Logan, 
 
 Commanding H.M. t)3rc? Regt, 
 Moulmein. 
 
 " P.S. I send the remains of poor Dr. Wood- 
 ford down to head-quarters in our light boat, 
 and hope they will soon arrive. They are 
 in straw, to protect them from the heat. 
 
 " 4 p.m. 19th March.'' 
 
 The fate of poor Woodford cast a gloom over 
 our mess for some days. He was a clever man 
 and agreeable companion ; but, as all things in 
 
240 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the course of time pass away, so at lengtli did 
 the recollection of this sad accident. 
 
 Nothing of any moment occurred out of the 
 ordinary duties of military life during the rest 
 of this year. 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 241 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 1841—1842. 
 
 IN 1841 the Chinese war was drawing to a 
 successful close, and the hostile attitude of 
 the Burmese Government visibl}^ relaxed, so that 
 we expected that the force would be reduced, if 
 not for the most part withdrawn. Before this 
 happened, three of the officers of the GSrd, 
 namely, Major Pole, Lieutenant Haries, and 
 myself, got leave to visit the interesting pro- 
 vinces af Mergui and Tavoy ; and as the excur- 
 sion to those places would be by water, we 
 engaged a large square-rigged vessel, used on 
 the coast and inland seas of this country. The 
 major very kindly undertook to look after our- 
 selves and our mess on board, and we were soon 
 ready to sail, having all our stock of provision 
 and wine on board. 
 
 Early in February we set sail on the splendid 
 Tenasserim river, or rather, to a certain extent, 
 branch of. the sea, running towards Mergui, 
 Tavoy, and Yea, the channel in some places 
 
 E 
 
242 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 narrowing, and then expanding to large in- 
 land lakes, studded with islands, all grand, 
 picturesque, and imposing, well wooded, and 
 ' beautiful. 
 
 In a few days we made the town of Yea. The 
 scenery hereabouts is very charming, a very 
 pretty and extensive sandy bay stretching round 
 it ; and there are many wooded islands sprinkled 
 about. 
 
 The town of Yea exemplifies those de- 
 scriptions of beautiful scenery that we read 
 of, but are so seldom realized. There are 
 charming indented coves, covered with moss, 
 ivy, and flowers of various kinds, overhanging 
 the beautiful bay, and shaded at intervals by 
 the graceful waving bamboo-tree. 
 
 The houses and cottages in this sweet place 
 are built with great taste, and the inhabitants 
 look happy, their faces beaming with intelli- 
 gence and tranquillity. 
 
 We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, and walked 
 about the bay until the moon rose brightly, 
 throwing its halo around, and never in all my 
 travels did I see a spot of such surpassing 
 beauty. 
 
 Having remained a few days here, we pro- 
 ceeded to Mergui, sailing on a light blue sea, 
 
LIFE OP LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 243 
 
 clear and bright with the morning sun. On the 
 14th we arrived there, after passing a squally 
 night, accompanied by thunder and lightning. 
 
 Mergui is a fine, bold, mountainous island. 
 The town of the same name rises from the shore 
 above you: it is a large place, and contains 
 about twelve thousand inhabitants, all looking, 
 as at Yea, contented and happy. The fish is 
 here good and abundant, and we caught a flat- 
 tish fish, which tasted much like our turbot. 
 
 A bold promontory rises on a small island close 
 to the town, which is called Madame MacKane's 
 Island, from a French admiral's wife, who lived 
 for some years here, and, dying suddenly, was 
 buried near her residence. A tomb, rising up 
 conspicuously from the harbour, marks the spot. 
 
 There are missionaries of various creeds at 
 Mergui, who visit the neighbouring islands, 
 which we passed on our way, but as yet they 
 do not appear very successful in their mission. 
 
 There was a detachment of our regiment 
 here, under Captain Spier, a married man, with 
 a family, who were all glad to see us, and hear 
 the news. There was also a company of native 
 Madras infantry, and a diplomatic friend, 
 Captain Macleod, who had been Commissioner 
 at the Court of his golden-footed Majesty, 
 
 E 2 
 
244 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the Emperor of Burmali and of all the white 
 elephants. Such was the style of the prince 
 in this country. 
 
 We sailed on the 18th, passing some fine 
 island scenery, and arrived at the ancient city 
 of Tenasserim on the 20th. This town is now 
 one vast ruin, with the remains of many magni- 
 ficent temples, covered with creepers and shrubs 
 of various kinds. 
 
 A coal-mine was discovered by some exploring 
 party lately, which was worked, under charge 
 of Lieutenant Hutchinson, of the Madras Artil- 
 lery, aided by a small steam-engine, and yielded 
 a good return of coal ; and it was said that 
 those provinces abounded in mines of tin and 
 copper ore, with other minerals. 
 
 Travellers exploring this city ought to be 
 cautious how they proceed, as there are the 
 remains of old wells and watercourses, so grown 
 over with verdure that it is hardly possible to 
 make them out before you are upon them — many 
 of which are of great depth. 
 
 We sailed from Tenasserim on the 24th, 
 coasting along the shore, and sometimes obliged 
 to anchor ofi* small islands, to avoid the stormy 
 weather that occasionally paid us a visit, and 
 which is dangerous to such craft as we were 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 245 
 
 sailing in ; we therefore did not reach Tavoy 
 until the end of the month. 
 
 Tavoy is a large province ; the town nearly 
 twice the size of Mergui, with thirty thousand 
 inhabitants. The roads throughout are excel- 
 lent, and the land so good and well cultivated, 
 that the revenue gives a surplus, after all local 
 expenses are paid. The people are remarkably 
 civil, and well disposed towards us. 
 
 The markets are very good, and they have 
 for sale, very cheap, the finest domestic fowls 
 possible. The girls, and many married 
 females, are handsome, and extremely well 
 made — tall, graceful, and winning in their 
 manner, their colour a light brownish yellow. 
 Here were a detachment of European Madras 
 Artillery, and a company of the 33rd Native 
 Infantry; and here I again had the pleasure 
 to meet my friend and old associate of the 
 Attaran adventure. Dr. Moreton, in medical 
 charge of the station. 
 
 The officers of the native troops had a 
 tame toucan. This bird was nearly as large 
 as a turkey, with a great beak, terminating 
 in a point of nearly ten inches in length. 
 It fed on pieces of uncooked meat, raised 
 one at a time, and thrown some feet up, 
 
246 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 the toucan receiving it back with, distended 
 jaws, down its huge throat. When angry, it 
 made a loud ratthng hissing noise. It was a 
 curious bird. 
 
 There is plenty of game of nearly all kinds in 
 this fine country ; and the long line of beautiful 
 groves, dedicated to the Buddhist religion, with 
 their quaint spiral buildings, containing several 
 idols, some of great size, are peculiarly striking 
 in effect. 
 
 Here we remained, enjoying ourselves, ten 
 days ; but as our term of leave was drawing 
 towards a close, we put to sea, and sailed in the 
 direction of Moulmein. On our way back we 
 grounded on a sandbank, and were left so, high 
 and dry, by the tide ; in a few hours, however, 
 the tide returned, and with the assistance of the 
 boatmen, we were floated off without any injury, 
 and proceeded with light winds on our way. 
 We passed several of the pretty islands again, 
 and made up our minds to pay a last visit to 
 the charming province of Yea, which we reached 
 on the 17th of March, and just in time to wit- 
 ness one of the grandest ceremonies to be met 
 with at the far East. It was in honour of the 
 dead. 
 
 When a priest {Phoongee) of the Buddhist 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 247 
 
 religion dies, he is embalmed ; and if of a cer- 
 tain age and sanctity, more care and expense 
 are taken in the doing so than if he were a 
 crowned head. He is then put in a case filled 
 with honey, and there he remains for several 
 months, under a splendid sarcophagus, placed 
 on a platform, close to the monastery or college 
 he belongs to. The body is watched over by a 
 select number of the priesthood of the deceased's 
 class, night and day, without intermission, until 
 the period arrives when it is to be consumed 
 to ashes. 
 
 In the mean time, there is being made a 
 gorgeous mausoleum of woodwork, beautifully 
 carved and gilded, in which work all the most 
 expert carvers and gilders are employed. This 
 elaborate and lofty structure is executed volun- 
 tarily, without emolument, by those engaged. 
 It is of a rectangular form, varying from ten to 
 fourteen feet in length, eight in breadth, and 
 fifty feet in height. Ascending from the base 
 are open compartments ; in these compart- 
 ments are carved and gilded allegorical repre- 
 sentations of the transmigrations the priest is 
 supposed to be obliged to go through, at length 
 ending in the soul's perfection, which then 
 becomes fit for the presence of the Creator. 
 
248 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 This I believe, from what I have read, to be 
 the chief doctrine of the Buddhists. 
 
 I did not hear by what sign in the planets 
 the priesthood are governed in selecting the 
 proper time to consume the body of the de- 
 ceased, but when they have decided that the 
 time has arrived, it is announced to the people, 
 who are prepared to attend the ceremonial. 
 
 When the day selected arrived, upwards of 
 ten thousand people had assembled around the 
 mausoleum, upon the top of which the sarco- 
 phagus had been placed. 
 
 The firing of this splendid piece of workman- 
 ship was to take place as the evening sun was 
 about to sink below the horizon; and in the 
 mean time the crowd appeared to enjoy the 
 occasion with great glee, and amused them- 
 selves in various athletic games, such as 
 wrestling, lifting heavy weights, and running 
 foot-races ; also in letting off fireworks. The 
 women (and there were a number of unmarried 
 damsels present) engaged in a sort of circular 
 dance ; they in no wise disguised their features, 
 and seemed joyous and happy. 
 
 The wrestling parties did their best to throw 
 each other, and some heavy falls took place, in 
 which not one of the defeated party showed the 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 249 
 
 least sign of rudeness or ill-temper ; on tlie con- 
 trary, coming np to and shaking the victor 
 cordially by the hand. 
 
 As evening came on, three handsomely-gilded 
 cars arrived, in which were placed figures of 
 celebrated warriors, as large as life, each 
 holding diagonally a good-sized rocket. They 
 were placed in a line about sixty yards fi:*om 
 the mausoleum, and as the sun was setting the 
 first rocket was pointed and fired, but missed 
 the mark. The second was let off, but also 
 missed, when a venerable man, in his yellow 
 monastic dress, came forward, kneeled in 
 prayer, then presented and fired the third 
 rocket, which struck the mausoleum, and it was 
 instantly in a blaze, ascending to the sarco- 
 phagus like lightning, which was soon in a 
 dense flame of fire and smoke. This continued 
 until the top fell in a heap of ashes : it was 
 beautifully done. The people sent forth a con- 
 tinuous cheer, and then retired to their homes 
 contented and happy. 
 
 And here it may be said that the people are 
 justified in their partiality to their priesthood. 
 They educate all classes ; they advise and feed 
 the poor; they are without prejudice towards 
 others though differing in faith, and lead them- 
 
250 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 selves, without exception, an excellent and 
 inoffensive life. 
 
 The Burmese people appear to be generally 
 extremely well-disposed and happy-minded, and 
 only want a good government to make them 
 a great nation. 
 
 On the 26th, we sailed, and made Amherst 
 on the 30th ; in the evening of the next day, 
 we anchored off Moulmein, our head- quarters. 
 
 The latter end of this year Her Majesty's 62nd 
 Eegiment was withdrawn from this station, also 
 the 14th Madras Native Infantry. Colonel Logan 
 was now the chief, and well worthy was he to 
 be so ; he knew his duty right well, and used 
 to manoeuvre the force under him with much 
 ability, showing us how fields were won. His 
 kindness and hospitality were proverbial ; indeed 
 he truly was the right man in the right place. 
 
 We continued to get on, under such a man, 
 every way to be wished, until a rather sad 
 separation took place. It was towards the 
 latter end of July, 1842, that a sudden order 
 arrived to send a wing of our regiment across 
 the Bay of Bengal to Madras, from whence it 
 was to march to the ceded districts, where it 
 was rumoured some disturbances were likely 
 to take place. 
 
LIFE OF nEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 251 
 
 The left wing was directed to go, and I was 
 destined to take the command of it, and pre- 
 pared accordingly. Early in August, the ship 
 arrived that was to convey us to our destination 
 and we embarked at once. 
 
 Accompanying one of my horses was a pea- 
 cock, a very fine one, which voluntarily attached 
 itself to this horse, and seemed quite unhappy 
 when away from him. I inquired who owned 
 it, but nobody seemed to know anything about 
 it. On seeing this horse hoisted on board, the 
 peacock flew- there also, and sailed off with us. 
 
 The moths and butterflies of Burmah are 
 very large and beautiful, particularly the argus 
 moth. I procured a good store of them for 
 home. 
 
 We were five weeks on our passage, and 
 landed in September at Madras, from whence 
 we proceeded to the depot established for the 
 Queen's forces, where we rested for a few 
 weeks, and then marched for the ceded 
 districts. 
 
 Not long after we heard that the force in 
 the Tenasserim provinces of Burmah was 
 entirely broken up, and that the head-quarters 
 and right wing of the 63rd Regiment were 
 directed to join us. 
 
252 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 Towards the close of 1842 we readied our 
 destination, and happily without many casualties 
 from sickness, although our route lay in a 
 direction where that Indian scourge, cholera, 
 was known to prevail. I never halted where I 
 heard it was, but moved a few miles to the 
 right or left out of the way ; add to this pre- 
 caution, we were favoured by cool weather. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 253 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 1842—1848. 
 
 ON entering Bellary, the head- quarters of a 
 large force stationed there, I was met by 
 General Woulfe, commanding those districts, 
 to whom I made my report, which seemed to 
 give satisfaction, and I placed my men in the 
 European barracks 'assigned me at this station. 
 
 The town of Bellary is surrounded by a 
 strong fortification much on the native system. 
 On a high rock, within some half-mile of the 
 place, is another fort, washed at its base by a 
 large tank or piece of water, at which thousands 
 of people assemble to bathe and cleanse their 
 garments. 
 
 In the upper fort was confined a nuwaib or 
 native prince, formerly the sovereign of the 
 ceded districts. The rock on which the upper 
 fort stands is well known from its intense heat, 
 as it reflects the sun's rays; and the plains 
 around are amongst the hottest in this part of 
 India. 
 
 We had plenty of duty ; the force, consisting 
 
254 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 of five native regiments, a portion of European 
 artillery, and ourselves, were in the field every 
 second day — this being the cool season, ad- 
 vantage was taken of it to manoeuvre the 
 troops. We were thus employed until towards 
 the latter end of February, at which time the 
 hot weather commenced. 
 
 Early in February a grand Mahomedan feast 
 was to take place near the upper fort and 
 around the rock on which it stands, at which 
 all the believers of that religion, far or near, 
 were to be present. 
 
 The day before this ceremony took place, I 
 was waited on by the late highly-distinguished 
 General Neil, who. fell at Lucknow, then 
 Deputy- Adjutant-General of the ceded districts, 
 and presented with a confidential memorandum 
 from the general, stating that I was to have all my 
 men ready accoutred at nightfall on the follow- 
 ing day ; to have the gates of the fort closed, 
 and no egress or entrance allowed during the 
 festival ; and to march out with two hundred 
 men towards the fort road on a given signal : 
 the rest of my men to keep constantly patrolling 
 the streets of the town. Thus prepared, we 
 continued in readiness to act if required. 
 
 At about 10 p.m. the uproar outside became 
 
LIFE or LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 255 
 
 tremendous, when the blue rocket — my signal — 
 was fired high in the air, and at nearly the 
 same time the whole country appeared one 
 blaze of light. 
 
 I salHed forth to the appointed place, where 
 a multitude of men, many of them armed, 
 worked up by excitement to a perfect frenzy, 
 were ready to commit any act of violence. 
 When they saw me a number of them rushed 
 forward, when I ordered my captain* of light 
 company to extend his men, but not to load 
 without orders, nor use the bayonet fatally if 
 possible. 
 
 On came the armed men, and down came 
 the fixed bayonets of the Light Bobs. On the 
 word to charge, the multitude gave way, but 
 a few resolute men met and struck at us with 
 their swords ; however, the white faces and the 
 bayonets made them turn and fly. 
 
 I halted on the ground, covered with fires, 
 fiireworks, and some arms, for more than an 
 hour, but as there was no further assemblage, 
 I marched back to quarters. 
 
 * The distinguished Lieutenant-Colonel Swyney, C.B., 
 commanding the 63rd E-egiment: killed at the battle of 
 Inkerman. 
 
256 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 The next day I received a note from the 
 Deputy-Adjutant- General as follows : — 
 
 {Copy.) 
 
 " Bellary, 2^th Feb., 1843. 
 " Dear Majoe, 
 
 " The General desires me to express to 
 you his entire satisfaction at the manner you 
 conducted your men last night, which proved 
 most effectual without loss of life. 
 
 " The appearance of Her Majesty's 63rd on 
 the scene w^as not expected, and the General 
 did not wish to employ native troops. 
 
 '^ Believe me, dear Major, 
 
 " Faithfully yours, 
 
 (Signed) GEO. SMITH NEIL, 
 A.D.A.G. 
 
 " Major Nevill, 
 
 « Com. L. W. H.M. 63rcZ Regt. 
 
 <^c. d'C. 
 
 In March it became very hot, and I began to 
 think my long service of thirty-three years was 
 beginning to tell upon me, as I was unable to 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 257 
 
 bear up against the heat of India. The head- 
 quarters and right wing of the regiment were on 
 the march to join us, and had unfortunately 
 suffered much from cholera. 
 
 They arrived in April, and their appearance 
 was most distressing ; all the men looked un- 
 well. Three officers and a large number of 
 soldiers, some of the best we had, were carried 
 off by that awful disease, the cholera. 
 
 I had prepared an abundance of hot coffee, 
 and had served out to each man a glass of 
 brandy, and messes of nutritious curry were 
 ready prepared for them. For the officers there 
 was a good supper, and plenty of champagne, 
 and the looks of all were visibly improved in a 
 few days. 
 
 Having given over my charge of the left 
 wing, I obtained sick-leave to the JSTeilgherify 
 Hills, which I lost no time in availing myself 
 of, and there, by the influence of a cool and 
 pure air, soon was much better. 
 
 The appearance of those regions are much 
 like the mighty Himalayas, but on a 
 small scale. The inhabitants of them are 
 a distinct race ft-om any other I ever saw, 
 are of a dusky yellow colour, and generally 
 small in stature. They live entirely amongst 
 
258 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 themselves, and communicate witli no one else. 
 Their principal occupation appears to be to rear 
 and keep large herds of black buflfalo, whose 
 milk is their principal food. 
 
 In attending divine service at St. Stephen's 
 church, I observed near the altar, some lines 
 recording the memory of my relative. Lady 
 Rumbold, whose remains are interred here. 
 The last time I saw this lady she was in her 
 bloom of beauty, admired and loved by all who 
 had the pleasure of knowing her. 
 
 When sufficiently recovered I rejoined my 
 regiment, and served with it until the com- 
 mencement of the hot season of 1844, when 
 weakness and ill health again attacked me, 
 and I became so depressed that I was 
 advised to return to Europe. I therefore 
 applied for leave home and retirement, which, 
 having obtained, I hurried by post to the 
 coast, and was lucky to find the good ship 
 Duhe of Argyll ready to sail for England, 
 and a cabin vacant, which I immediately 
 occupied. We sailed in a few days, and had 
 a prosperous voyage to England, which we 
 reached in August, without incident of any 
 kind occurring worthy of notice. 
 
 My health on arriving in England was much 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 259 
 
 improved, but the winter season was too 
 severe for my weakened frame, and a trip to 
 the south of France was recommended. There 
 I Hved for some time, only to find out that the 
 disease of all those who had served long in hot 
 climates had got dominion over my constitu- 
 tion — that is, the liver complaint, which I felt 
 sometimes very severe, and at length caused 
 me, at the recommendation of a Medical Board, 
 to retire from the army, on obtaining the 
 brevet rank of Lieutenant-Colonel. 
 
 Having now for some time nothing to do, 
 and my health gradually getting better, I pur- 
 chased a commission in the Honourable Corps 
 of 6entlemen-at-Arms. 
 
 My principal duties in this state corps were 
 in attending Levees, Drawing-rooms, and In- 
 stallations of the Orders of the Garter and 
 the Bath, &c. Sometimes the rooms at St. 
 James's Palace were so crowded with com- 
 pany, that it was no easy matter to dispose 
 of them satisfactorily. Conceive something 
 like six hundred people pressing together 
 where there was hardly room for half that 
 number. 
 
 It was an interesting sight, however, to be- 
 hold all the influential and mighty of the land, 
 
 s 2 
 
260 SOME RECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 and the most beautiful women in the world, in 
 their splendid attire, come to pay homage to 
 oiu* ever Gracious Queen. 
 
 The ambassadors' room was also full of 
 attraction and novelty; and the throne-room, 
 with the greatest of sovereigns present, sur- 
 rounded by the great officers of state, had a 
 most grand and imposing effect. 
 
 It occurred that, at one of the Drawing- 
 rooms, my attention was drawn to the appear- 
 ance of a magnificently-dressed Indian chief, 
 who wore over his muslin trousers, knicker- 
 bocker fashion, a pair of English top-boots. 
 This looked most ludicrous, and what induced 
 him to add the top-boots to his costume nobody 
 could think. 
 
 On going up to him I recognised that it was 
 Aza Mullah Khan, agent to the now notorious 
 Rajah Nana Sahib, of Bithure, whom I for- 
 merly met there. He knew me at once, and I 
 told him that no gentleman ever came to be 
 presented in top-boots, and that he had better 
 change them for his usual embroidered san- 
 dalled slippers. He instantly retired from 
 Queen Anne's room and did so, returning quite 
 in time for presentation. 
 
 In India, to wear leather of any kind on 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 261 
 
 state occasions, before a crowned head, would 
 be looked upon as a great insult, and this 
 gentleman knew it well enough. 
 
 In 1848 the Revolution in France broke out, 
 and it was whispered it might be connected with 
 Mr. Fergus O'Connor's chartist demonstration ; 
 thus it was necessary to be prepared for any out- 
 break that might occur. But we had few troops 
 of any kind in England at that time, and the 
 late Duke of Wellington advised that all public 
 establishments should be armed and defended 
 by those they belonged to ; amongst the rest 
 that the Palace of St. James's should be 
 held by the Yeomen of the Guard and the Gen- 
 tlemen-at-Arms. We accordingly received fire- 
 arms, but found them too heavy for our drill, 
 which was that of a dismounted troop of cavalry. 
 Lord Combermere, on hearing this, most kindly 
 lent us the spare carbines from his first regi- 
 ment of Life Guards, with his regimental cor- 
 poral major, to assist our drill. Lord Foley, 
 our chief, made two of us mihtary men sub- 
 ofiicers, and in a few months we became quite 
 efficient. 
 
 The French Revolution, however, passed 
 away, with the dethronement of the good King 
 Louis-Philippe, by whom, in other days, I was 
 
262 SOME EECOLLEOTIONS IN THE 
 
 presented with the Cross of the Legion of 
 Honour, for my humble services on board his 
 ship, The Bengalie, on her passage from India 
 to Europe in 1831. 
 
LIFE OF LIBUT.-COLONEL NEVILL. 263 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 The seas are quiet when the winds give o'er ; 
 So, calm are we when passions are no more ; 
 For then we know how vain it was to boast 
 Of fleeting things so certain to be lost. 
 
 Stronger by weakness wiser men become, 
 As they draw near to their eternal home : 
 Leaving the old, both worlds at once they view, 
 That stand upon the threshold of the new. 
 
 Waller. 
 
 DO what we may, time passes away, and we 
 advance in life without thinking how 
 fleeting it is — that those dear to us are gone, 
 and that we ere long must follow them. 
 
 Since my recent retirement to Windsor, the 
 full force of the above truth is often brought 
 before me, amidst the sacred and beautiful 
 service daily rendered in St. George's Chapel. 
 
 It was in the spring-time of this present year 
 1863, that I was so fortunate as to witness, in 
 that gorgeous place of worship, a most bril- 
 liant and interesting ceremony, the marriage of 
 
264 SOME EECOLLECTIONS IN THE 
 
 His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales with 
 the Princess Alexandra of Denmark, on which 
 great occasion the Royal Family of England 
 attended, and all the illustrious and noble 
 dignitaries of the land were present. 
 
 Great preparations had been made, and the 
 admirable spectacle was ably arranged and 
 carried out by Yiscount Sydney, the Lord 
 Chamberlain, so that nothing was wanted to 
 add to its perfection. 
 
 There were three grand processions, each 
 headed by the Queen's band. 
 
 First, the Royal Family, and then the illus- 
 trious and princely attendants of Her Majesty's 
 household ; then His Royal Highness the 
 Bridegroom and his brilliant suite ; next Her 
 Royal Highness the Bride, marked by us all 
 with surpassing interest. 
 
 The programme itself, pointing out all who 
 were present and eminent by their princely and 
 exalted rank, renders a detail unnecessary. 
 Suffice it to say that the beauty and interest of 
 the scene was charmingly done, and the most 
 perfect order prevailed amongst the company 
 through which the several grand processions 
 passed. Not a hand was moved or a whisper 
 heard throughout the entire ceremony. 
 
LIFE OF LIEUT. -COLONEL NEVILL. 265 
 
 My notice of the above memorable event, 
 gentle reader, closes my little book and its 
 many faults. To any who favour me by reading 
 it I bid a kind farewell. 
 
NOTES. 
 
{Cojpy.) 
 
 From the Commanding Officer of His Majesty's 30tli Regt. 
 to the Deputy- Adjutant-General, King's Forces. 
 
 Camp. Narrinpoor, India. 
 Sept. 27, 1825. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Last night we had a most severe storm 
 of thunder, lightning, and rain, by which some 
 of the men were injured, but not fatally, and 
 five stand of arms destroyed and some baggage 
 cattle. 
 
 Brevet-Captain Nevill's tent was entirely 
 consumed, and all it contained, except himself. 
 He was asleep inside at the time, and wholly 
 uninjured. His escape appeared miraculous. 
 
 I have the honour to be, &c., 
 
 (^Signed) JOHN DALRYMPLE, 
 
 Major Commanding. 
 
FTom General Sir J. Burgoyne, Bart., G.C.B., Inspector- 
 General of Fortifications, &c. 
 
 War Office, 
 
 30^7i March, 1861. 
 
 My Dear Col. Nevill, 
 
 You indeed have every right to appeal 
 to me. 
 
 I have a very grateful remembrance of the 
 gallant services of the Officers of the Line, who 
 came forward in arduous times to act as 
 Assistant-Engineers at the Sieges in Spain, 
 when our Corps were so miserably deficient. 
 
 And amongst those gallant officers you were 
 one of the most distinguished. 
 
 Yours faithfully, 
 
 (Signed) J. F. BURGOYNE. 
 
 LiEUT.-CoL. P. Nevill. 
 
cox AND WYMAN, 
 
 ORIENTAL, CLASSICAL, AND GENERAL PRINTERS, 
 
 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLn's-INN FIELDS. 
 
iA 
 
V 
 
 33 
 
 m 
 
 H 
 C 
 
 00 7) 
 
 1 
 
U.C. BERKELEY LIBRARIES 
 
 HI 
 
 II mil nil Hill 
 
 CD2M7MbDMl