*- 
 
 University of California Berkeley 
 
 i 
 

 
 

LETTERS FROM ABROAD; 
 
 OR, 
 
 Scraps from New Zealand, Australia, 
 and America. 
 
 BY 
 
 H. B. T. 
 
 PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION. 
 
 GLASGOW: 
 
 BELL AND BAIN, PRINTERS, 41 MITCHELL STREET. 
 1884. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 TRAVELLING comfortably has become nearly a science, the 
 grand secret of success being a small quantity of luggage, 
 properly selected. For a trip round the world some little 
 thought is, of course, necessary, but the less impedimenta 
 the greater the real enjoyment. Supposing you start in 
 November (you cannot select a more suitable time), and 
 intend being in London by June, then really very little is 
 needed but cool clothing. This journey to the Antipodes 
 can be made inexpensive, ^"500, or less, should cover every- 
 thing, including many pretty presents. Any one wishing to 
 make a closer acquaintance than can be made by books 
 with some of the grandest and most enterprising countries 
 in the world, cannot do much better in the time than follow 
 our route. My reminiscences, or rather letters, are very 
 disjointed, but any friend reading the same must please 
 remember that every line was written, more or less, under 
 disadvantageous circumstances, and I have not bothered to 
 revise them. They are simply letters home. Our experi- 
 ences cannot be altogether uninteresting. There is one 
 thing certain : I give a simple route, and if that be followed 
 
vi Preface. 
 
 the same result will doubtless be gained, viz., a pleasant, 
 moderately inexpensive, and health-giving trip, full of inci- 
 dent and most instructive, with warm and fine weather, from 
 Malta to Liverpool. I have not re-read or, perhaps I 
 should say, not re-written a single letter, and my friends 
 will find first and third persons singularly well mixed. I 
 can safely say my travelling companion was staunch and 
 kind, and everything that a man could desire ; and may 
 every other "globe trotter" be fortunate enough to find so 
 good a comrade. My only regret from start to finish has 
 been that those I hold dear could not see for themselves the 
 beautiful and singular sights I have tried to describe. Many 
 of the coach drives in New Zealand were made in great dis- 
 comfort, the food was plain rather than luxurious, and very 
 early rising was compulsory ; but, taken all in all, we had 
 little to complain of. 
 
 SKELETON ROUTE. 
 
 P. & O. Steamer to Melbourne. Scott's Hotel (for men); 
 Menzies' or Oriental for family. Clubs Melbourne and 
 Australian. 
 
 Union Steamer to Bluff, New Zealand, via Hobart and 
 Milford Sound. Rail from Bluff to Invercargill. 
 
 Invercargill, Albion, or Prince of Wales Rail to Kingston 
 (Lake Wakitipu). Steamer to Queenstown and Head of 
 Lake. Back same route to Invercargill. 
 
 Rail to Dunedin. Grand Hotel. Fernhill Club. 
 
Preface. vii 
 
 Rail to Christchurch. Coker's Hotel. Christchurch Club. 
 
 Rail from Christchurch to Springfield. Coach to 
 Hokitiki. Return same route to Christchurch. 
 
 Rail to Lyttleton. Lyttleton to Napier by Union Steamer. 
 Napier Criterion Hotel and Club. Coach from Napier to 
 Ohinemutu. Lake Hotel. Work Hot Springs and The 
 Terraces, and back to Ohinemutu. 
 
 Coach to Hamilton. Rail to Auckland. Star Hotel and 
 Club. 
 
 Union Steamer to Sydney. Petty's Hotel. Union Club. 
 
 Sydney by A. & S. U. Co.'s Steamer to Brisbane. 
 Queensland Club or Criterion Hotel. 
 
 Rail to Warwick; and same route back to Sydney. 
 
 Sydney by Pacific Mail Steamer to San Francisco. 
 
 Rail to Madera. Coach to Yo-semite Valley; and back 
 to Sacramento. 
 
 Rail to Salt Lake City. Metropolitan Hotel. 
 
 Rio Grande Railway to Denver. Windsor Hotel. 
 
 Denver Rail to Chicago, by Burlington Route. Chicago 
 Palmer House. 
 
 Chicago, by Michigan Central, to Niagara Falls. Clifton 
 House Hotel. 
 
 Rail and Steamer to Toronto. Queen's Hotel. 
 
 Toronto, by Steamer, to Montreal. Windsor Hotel 
 
 Rail, Steamer, and Stage to Saratoga, United States 
 Hotel. 
 
 Night Mail to New York. Fifth Avenue, or The 
 Brunswick. 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 Steamer Pilgrim to Boston. 
 
 New York, via Oregon, to Liverpool. 
 
 In writing these Letters I had but one ambition that of 
 being faithful. If I have been guilty of plagiarism, my 
 memory and not my eyesight must bear the blame. I 
 hate looking back and re-reading words I have written 
 just as the impulse was on me, for nearly all expressions on 
 second reading look weak and inadequate. I can only 
 hope that those who wade through the following pages will 
 retain some few scraps of information likely to reward them 
 for the trouble. 
 
 CLIFTON, 1884. 
 
LETTERS FROM ABROAD; 
 
 OR, 
 
 SCRAPS FROM NEW ZEALAND, AUSTRALIA, 
 AND AMERICA. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 S.S. CARTHAGE,* 
 22nd November, 1883. 
 
 FAREWELL is not a pleasant thing at the best of times, but 
 especially trying when the time must come for 13,000 miles 
 to separate you from those you hold dear. As the tender 
 Tilbury steamed away, we could see nothing but a mass of 
 heads and umbrellas. We waved a last farewell, then set to 
 work getting our baggage into the state-room, and many 
 Bristolians would have laughed to see our late High Sheriff 
 struggling with some heavy portmanteau down the narrow 
 companion. As I write the rush and confusion is over, our 
 little space quite neat and ship-shape. The cabin we occupy 
 is said to be one of the best in the ship, but very small, and 
 we can hear the thud of the screw and feel a slight vibra- 
 tion. The Carthage is a grand steamer, built by Caird, of 
 
 * P. and O. steamer, 5,000 tons, 5,000 H.P., 43 feet beam, 430 feet 
 long. Cost ; 1 60, ooo. 
 
 I 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Greenock, "and specially adapted for hot climates. Even 
 now, although there is a heavy roll on, I am able to write. 
 The saloon at night is beautiful beyond description, lighted 
 by dozens of duplex lamps, with plain white globes, the 
 crimson curtains over the dead-lights give warmth to the 
 scene; palms and other foliage plants give grace, motley 
 humanity adds animation, a bird singing overhead gives an 
 idea of home. As yet I cannot say much about our fellow- 
 passengers, but feel sure we shall easily manage to pick up 
 information and amusement. We have a seat near the 
 
 Captain, and close to the F (friends of the R ). 
 
 We dined fairly well at six o'clock. A glass of toddy and a 
 quiet smoke finished an exciting day. By this time to- 
 morrow our " home will be on the horizon." 
 
 2yd Nov. During the night hail fell heavily : a N.E. 
 wind made a big roll and brought everybody on deck in 
 greatcoats and thick wraps ; few ladies looked really 
 happy, and many men had a "greenery, yellery," over 
 the side look. I am writing in the smoking-room, a stuffy 
 little place, hardly in keeping with so fine a boat. The 
 Lascars act as sailors ; they are very inferior to our Jack- 
 tars, but answer the purpose, being cheap and used to hot 
 climates. > 
 
 2 ^th Nov. During the night a big sea came over, and, 
 using the carpenter's bench as a battering-ram, forced its 
 way through a companion door, flooding the passages and 
 cabins. Thank goodness no water got over our combing, 
 but many others fared badly. A south-west wind having 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 raised a pretty big sea, the good ship Carthage rolls along 
 at ten knots. Every now and then a big slop would tumble 
 over, and away goes crockery, glass, and chairs; really the 
 former must be fearfully and wonderfully made, for it 
 stands no end of knocking about. We passed and sighted 
 a few wind-jammers (alias sailing-ships), but saw no steamers. 
 Very cold, clammy, and damp. Even now I can 't say much 
 for my fellow-passengers, for the greater number are down 
 below but the Captain (Hector, R.N.R.), is a man of 50 or 
 perhaps more, medium height, gray hair, with nice manners, 
 eyes bright and gray, with a rather stern look ; but I dare- 
 say, when we get to know him, he will prove agreeable. 
 The doctor is a perfect gentleman, as far as we can judge by 
 outward appearances ; he is about 35 to 38, with rather a 
 military bearing ; clean shaven, saving a heavy moustache, 
 broad shoulders, fine figure, and decidedly handsome. 
 Besides this, he has an easy, well-bred manner of speak- 
 ing, and looks altogether a splendid advertisement for the 
 company whose uniform he wears. The sea is getting up, 
 and I fear a bad night;. 
 
 Sunday, 2$th Nov. After a somewhat restless night, 
 owing to the clanking and beating of the dead -light chains 
 we both shaved (not an easy thing), went- on deck to find a 
 very heavy sea on, and a nasty downpour of close, warm 
 rain. Every now and then she lifted a big slop over the 
 main deck, flooding out many of the second-class cabins. 
 The more one sees of this grand ship the greater the sense 
 of security. Service out of the question, although we have 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 three parsons on board. The nice little lady (A know 
 
 the one I mean) has not yet put in at meals. Most of the 
 passengers are paying debts to Neptune, and the music down 
 our corridor is rather dismal. 
 
 Towards evening the wind freshened, and at ten p.m. we 
 were driving at half speed in the teeth of what the Captain 
 called a "fresh gale." The spray was now breaking over 
 her every minute, and scarcely a state-room escaped the 
 water. In more than one the boxes were floating about (at 
 
 least so the occupants said). L and I turned in at 
 
 10.30, jammed ourselves into our bunks with wraps and 
 coats, tried for sleep, but at 11.30 the steering gear broke 
 away, the engines were stopped. We were both out and on 
 deck in a moment. There she lay in the trough of the sea 
 literally smothered. The rolling was very heavy, sleep out 
 of the question. The damage was soon repaired, and away 
 we started at half speed. I wedged a box in the doorway 
 to keep out the wet, and placed all shoes, &c., out of reach. 
 After rolling about through a most miserable night, we arose 
 to see the " Bag of Biscuits " in anything but a peaceful 
 mood. 
 
 26th Nov. Very few, indeed, at breakfast, and these 
 nearly all complaining of damp cabins. Sail was set to try 
 and steady her, but the canvas was in ribbons in a few 
 minutes, and the poor Lascars (Lascar, native of Madras) 
 had a hard time of it getting in the torn sails. 
 
 Evening found us in fairly steady water, and for the first 
 time since starting we had a really good muster at six o'clock 
 
Letters front Abroad. 5 
 
 dinner. The breakfast at nine consists of porridge, ham and 
 eggs, chops, Irish stew, curry, rolls, marmalade, &c. The 
 one o'clock luncheon (or tiffin), soup, cold meats, salad, cold 
 tarts, &c. The dinner at six is a good meal of soup, fish, 
 entree, joints, poultry, and the usual pastry, with dessert 
 and coffee. 
 
 27 th Nov. The sea went down during the night. We 
 were greeted with a warm and welcome sun, calm sea, and 
 bright faces, and dozens of travellers I had never seen 
 before were up and doing. Everybody on deck putting 
 chairs in order, getting out rugs, and making themselves 
 and each other generally comfortable. What worn, wan 
 faces some of the poor creatures had, and how the terrible 
 trial of sea-sickness was left out of the future torments I 
 can't tell, for really it must be something awful. I have 
 hardly spoken to anybody yet. I do my two miles every 
 day by the pedometer; shall try to keep it up until I get 
 
 to the Red Sea, and then . Please remember as you 
 
 read this that all has to be written when the Carthage is in 
 motion, and the calmest sea produces movement the screw 
 vibration. The doctor has a capital voice, and gave some 
 really good songs. He seems in great request among the 
 ladies, but some of the husbands look (well, hardly so 
 pleased as the ladies). 
 
 2&th Nov. We past old Gib. in the dark, twinkling with 
 hundreds of lights. 
 
 Beautiful, sunny day, and delightfully warm. In the 
 far distance the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada, and 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 around the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean. Every 
 one on deck, for the most part, dressed in thin clothes; 
 many ladies arrayed in light, gay attire. A quiet day, a 
 calm day, a day for thinking, and inwardly making good 
 resolutions, watching the steamers, ships, and craft, too 
 numerous to mention, passing in silent progress along this 
 great highway. Up to now we have had grand appetites, 
 but I daresay the heat will somewhat alter this. The 
 African coast on the port the whole day. To-morrow we 
 trust to make or rather pass Algiers. 
 
 2th Nov. Another beautiful day; no wind; very cheerful 
 table. 
 
 The coast of Africa in view for several hours the 
 mountains rising tier above tier. Life on board ship, unless 
 we touch land, is of necessity monotonous. 
 
 30/7* Nov. Last night some dozen or two joined in a 
 dance on deck; altogether it was a pretty sight. The some- 
 what subdued illuminations of two or three ship's lights, 
 held by dark Hindoos, made the deck a good flirting place. 
 The ladies with bright dresses and flashing jewels (the 
 quantity of jewellery worn all day is hardly to be credited), 
 merry face*, and capital music, formed a very picturesque 
 sight. For my part, I contented myself by turning over the 
 music. During the night a nasty east wind caught the good 
 old Carthage dead ahead, washing her face, and dusting her 
 decks in anything but a comfortable manner. Very few at 
 breakfast, old Father Neptune having another good time of 
 it. A poor Seedy boy (stoker, and native of Africa) died on 
 
Letters from A broad. 
 
 Sunday from the cold November weather, and was quietly 
 put overboard by his companions, saying, as they did so, 
 some incantation, then reading a portion of the Koran, and 
 finally burning a special kind of incense for the dead, and 
 as the smoke goes upward the soul is supposed to ascend 
 heavenward. Poor fellow! The wind still blowing hard; 
 nobody on deck. The practice for Sunday is not going on. 
 Still pegging away, but shall not make Malta until eleven or 
 twelve to-morrow. Nothing sensational up to the present. 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 MALTA, is? Dec. After breakfast everybody appeared 
 intent upon finishing letters, &c. About eleven o'clock the 
 Carthage quietly steamed into the Quarantine Harbour of 
 Valetta, the big anchor soon found a bottom, and in a few 
 moments the deck was crowded with eager faces, nearly all 
 dressed in shore clothes. After a brief space, the Doctor 
 came aboard, and as soon as the yellow flag was lowered, 
 a grand rush was made for the gangway. Boat-load after 
 boat-load soon put us on land, amid the shouting of boat- 
 men, the pestering of touts anxious to sell every possible 
 trash, from a Maltese terrier to a globe full of gold fish. 
 These Maltese are a noisy, nasty lot, and the biggest rogues 
 in Europe. Every hotel seemed crowded, to get lunch 
 turned out to be a very difficult affair. Drove round with 
 two or three men to see the Capuchin Church, and once 
 
8 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 again my nostrils were regaled on pickled monks. Bargained 
 for lace and coins, but could not arrange a price; the 
 Maltese are awful thieves, but on dealing a second time 
 a man is hardly to be had. Smoked cigars, and strolled 
 about the Strada Reale. During the afternoon a nasty 
 fine rain set in; we met groups of fellow-passengers, all 
 looking very wet and miserable. Had a jolly dinner at 
 the Angleterre, and then drove in a body to the Opera, a 
 very fine house, built of stone, cool and comfortable. The 
 Company, playing " La Favorita," was anything but a good 
 one, so at the end of the second act we started to gather up 
 our purchases two large baskets of oranges, two hats, cigars, 
 cigarettes, prickley pears, and no end of beautiful roses 
 (the latter my only bargain). We had a row with the 
 cabman, who narrowly escaped being pitched into the water. 
 The rain was now coming down in torrents, our party all 
 glad to get into the smoking-room of the good old ship. 
 Coaling went on all night ; at six this morning we steamed 
 away for Port Said, hoping to get there about Wednesday, 
 ten o'clock. For the sum of one shilling, I yesterday bought 
 six large bunches of beautiful roses. Population of Malta 
 160,000, of Valetta 18,000, or, perhaps, 20,000. The Valetta 
 market is a curious mixture of beauty and the beast. 
 Flowers in every form and colour, fruit of all kinds, grapes, 
 new figs, pomegranates, prickley pears, &c., vegetables, and 
 beautiful dairy produce, all exposed for sale in filthy dens, 
 each stall presided over by some dirty Maltese; an abomi- 
 nable stench pervades the whole place beggars, ad lib. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 2nd Dec. Rain all gone, warm beautiful sunshine. 
 Service in Saloon ; a Church of England clergyman gave 
 us a small thin sermon in a small thin voice, but he looked 
 nice and clean in his gown and Oxford hood so enough. 
 The singing went off fairly well. Lots of people bought 
 birds yesterday, and the place is quite gay with song. 
 Being Sunday, we have red velvet table-covers, and what, 
 with globes of gold fish, flowers of all sorts, the Saloon is 
 perfect. We landed two or three passengers at Malta, 
 replacing them by others. Shall try and send a line from 
 Suez, or, perhaps, Port Said. 
 
 $rd Dec. Another hot glorious day. Up very early; 
 had a jolly cold salt bath. Got up a Calcutta selling 
 sweep, the total sum collected and knocked down to 
 
 auction being ^20. L and I made a calculation, and 
 
 thought 317 or 319 would be about the winning number, 
 
 so L bought 317 and I 319; we agreed to divide. 317 
 
 won, and I received 6 135. for my share of first prize. 
 After that the passengers met together to select a com- 
 mittee of seven, four men and three ladies, to get up dances, 
 sports, sweeps, music, acting, &c.j how on earth I got 
 27 votes, is a mystery. Thank goodness the 27 votes left 
 me one vote out of the committee, for I know you cannot 
 go through a voyage like this, without falling foul of some- 
 body, if in any prominent position. Tiffin over, 1 5 passengers 
 were selected to pull against 15 ship's crew, and after a very 
 few seconds, we, the passengers, pulled them over the line. 
 The next pull was the fossils (over 30), against the boys 
 
io Letters from Abroad. 
 
 (under 30). This was a grand pull, and lasted for a long 
 
 time, and we were winning well, when Dr. U got his 
 
 hand temporarily paralysed, and gave up, so we lost; we 
 are going to try again. Music, singing, and yarns, finished 
 a very pleasant day. The sunset was singularly curious 
 and beautiful, the sky apple green and carmine, with smoke, 
 coloured clouds floating over an apparently Hood-red sea. 
 
 4rth Dec. The heavenly tub, a long walk on deck before 
 breakfast, visiting the cow with the big head, the grouse, 
 pig, sheep, ducks, &c., and speculating with chums as to 
 what the Committee are going to provide for us. For my 
 part, I fancy I see breakers ahead the parsons and the 
 women are at it, and bitterness, I fear, will result; no 
 meanness at present; but one or two of the ladies are 
 showing venom, what for, goodness only knows. Up to now 
 
 I have only spoken to one lady (a Mrs. B ), with such 
 
 a splendid boy; but this afternoon I had one or two invita- 
 tions to kettle-drum. I declined all, but, mark my words ! 
 to-day is the first of a new era. We have one man on board 
 who by common consent is called The Ass, and no wonder, 
 for some of his questions are very "assinine." Do you 
 think we are doing 30 knots? Is'nt it the sun making the 
 waves? and so on. One of the grouse died to-day, so now 
 there remains only the cock and hen. The refrigerator is 
 hard at work; all meat is more or less tough. Athletic 
 sports came off again this afternoon, most of the men in 
 silk shirts, scarlet scarfs round the waists, white straws, &c., 
 and light or white trousers. The three-legged race created 
 
Letters from A broad. \ i 
 
 a lot of fun. The fossils again had a tug-of-war with the 
 boys, exactly the same teams as yesterday; the excitement 
 was immense, and we were winning, in fact had pulled 
 them to within one inch of the line, Le. three yards, 
 (indeed the umpire said the first man touched), but the 
 
 ladies said no, and Dr. D again gave up, and we 
 
 again lost after a terrible struggle. When I tell you there 
 were more than four pairs of india-rubber soles literally 
 wrenched off with the pressure, you will easily understand 
 
 what a tug it was. All our hands were swollen. L 
 
 says it was a curious sight to see the Ladies, Hindoos, 
 Lascars, Ship's Company grouped round, all in fits of 
 excitement, clapping and shouting. Many of us had to 
 lie down after. Nearly all the men bought scarlet scarfs 
 at Malta, using them instead of braces; the effect is striking. 
 No gambling on board except the sweep; it is a curious 
 sight to see one or two ladies bidding for numbers 
 under the wing of some gentleman. I have to write in 
 the saloon, with music, singing, and chatting, so please 
 correct any error before you pass this letter on beyond 
 the family. We are all anxious to see the Canal, for such 
 a gigantic work must be interesting. In the selling sweep 
 to-day, I fixed on 315, and bought it for a song (75. 6d.); 
 
 L did not go halves, and I won this time & ios., being 
 
 the net amount, after deducting 10 per cent., for the 
 Seaman's home. I daresay I shall lose that and more 
 before I get to Sydney. I feel tired, stiff, and sore, after 
 yesterday's pulling so adieu. 
 
12 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 This ship is only driven to do about 300 a-day; 
 she could do more, but the Company won't have it. 
 Washing is a great consideration, and none like to have 
 any done at Columbo, for frequently the passengers con- 
 tract the "doby itch," from washing done there, so 
 economy is the order of the day. Pitching the 16 Ib. 
 bag of sand was heavy work, the longest being 32 feet 
 with one step forward won by V , the cricketer. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 6th Dec. The Carthage arrived at Port Said at 6.30. 
 Nearly all the passengers on deck long before break- 
 fast, watching the dark-skinned Egyptians and still more 
 dusky negroes hurrying coal down the hold by means of 
 small baskets. Port Said itself is a mushroom town, 
 brought into existence by the formation of the Canal, 
 oriental and uninviting, swarming with beggars, cadgers, 
 flies, with a fair sprinkling of passengers from the 
 numerous ships going through this narrow highway to the 
 East. This grand work was commenced in 1859, and 
 completed in ten years. The cost was ^18,250,000, 100 
 English miles in length, 66 being actual canal and 22 run- 
 ning through the three lakes Timsah, Great and Small 
 Bitter Lakes. The width is generally about 325 feet. In 
 
Letters from Abroad. 13 
 
 one part it is only 72 feet wide. Stations and sidings are 
 
 situated at various places to allow large vessels to pass each 
 
 other. The level of the Mediterranean and the Red Seas is 
 
 nearly the same, thus there is very little current; the 
 
 little there is flows north from the Red Sea. The rate o f 
 
 speed for steamers is between five and six miles an hour, 
 
 and the total time being generally twenty to twenty-four 
 
 hours. From England (Start Point) to Point de Galle 
 
 (Ceylon) via Canal, is 6,515 miles, via Cape of Good Hope, 
 
 11,650 difference in favour of Canal, 5,135. The above 
 
 details will give you some outline of the Canal itself, but no 
 
 words of mine can convey any idea of the dreary sandy 
 
 plains, with nothing whatever to break their monotony save 
 
 the long-legged ibis, or perhaps a flight of wild duck. Clay 
 
 swamps, with a few stunted rushes, are the only uneven 
 
 things in this bare, parched land. We now and then pass 
 
 the native dahabieh, a species of boat with a huge lateen 
 
 sail. A mirage came over the desert this afternoon, we 
 
 thought we could distinctly see the sea and the waves 
 
 curling on the shore ; but, of course, it was only an illusion. 
 
 The atmosphere is very clear and cool in fact, cold. At 
 
 the present moment we have passed four large steamers, and 
 
 only two hours in the Canal, and I believe we have four big 
 
 steamers ahead of us. We paid ^"1,000 to clear the 
 
 Carthage through the Canal. 
 
14 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 DISTANCES. 
 
 London to Gibraltar, . . . 1,299 miles. 
 
 Malta, .... 2,280 
 
 Port Said, . .3,215 ., 
 
 Colombo, . . .6,515 
 
 Melbourne, . .11,185 
 
 Sydney, . . . 12,145 
 
 We are just now passing the Merzapore, a fine P. and O. 
 steamer. We wave a passing salute. On again, one home- 
 ward bound, the other to the antipodes. To-night we have 
 a grand programme dance. The hurricane deck is can- 
 vased in, decorated with flags, bunting, &c. We have 
 issued invitations to all the passengers of the Ancona, 
 another P. and O. boat just ahead of us. About forty or 
 fifty have accepted. At 8.30 the ball commenced. It was 
 really a very gay affair. We had the coloured lights of the 
 ship arranged in two rows up and down our long ball-room. 
 Being in the Canal, and therefore motionless, we were able 
 to dance in comfort. The ladies were dressed in every 
 imaginable costume, some of our guests in low dresses. 
 Nearly all danced fairly well, but after a time it became 
 very hot. A capital supper, a jolly cheer as our guests 
 departed in the steamer's launch, and then a quiet smoke ; 
 a big drink of iced soda and B., and then good-night. 
 
 To-day I saw growing for the first time in the open air 
 Pointceltia pulcherima in large trees in full bloom, the scarlet 
 very striking. 
 
Letters from A broad. 1 5 
 
 >]th Dec. Very chilly indeed on deck ; a cold wind. Put 
 on my greatcoat, so you can easily imagine the change from 
 the warm weather of the last few days. Going across one of 
 the lakes a storm came on; the Captain became fearful 
 about our going aground ; the waves came over the launch, 
 she was left behind for hours with her fires out, and nearly 
 helpless. She is now alongside, and we hope to use her 
 this evening for a return ball on board the Ancona. The 
 return ball did not come off, as the distance at sundown 
 (when all traffic ceases) from the Ancona was over three 
 miles. The blood-orange of commerce is simply the ordi- 
 nary orange grafted on the pomegranate. 
 
 SUEZ. 
 
 We anchored in Suez Bay to wait for the P. and O. 
 steamer, Lombardy, with the Brindisi mails. Most of the pas- 
 sengers made up their minds to go ashore. Soon the bay on 
 the gangway side of the Carthage was crowded with useful- 
 looking boats of the felucca type. Some few passengers were 
 seized bodily and carried off to boats against their will by 
 lusty ruffians of boatmen. One of these abductions occa- 
 sioned a regular fight between two powerful men, and I 
 shall never forget the slapping, biting, wriggling, and frantic 
 grasps of the throat made by these muscular brutes. The 
 first scene of operations was confined to the large step or 
 platform at the bottom of the gangway, whence they were 
 removed with great trouble ; but the final battle took place 
 in the bottom of our boat. The two men i^^'^d like one 
 
1 6 Letters front Abroad. 
 
 mass of wriggling humanity. We soon got Abdallah's 
 opponent over the side, and then, sail being set, we shortly 
 found ourselves at the landing-stage. Another scuffle: 
 donkeys mounted, and a curious cavalcade we looked 
 streaming in single file from the port along the narrow strip 
 of land to Suez proper. One or two riders had a somer- 
 sault, but all spills were, in my opinion, the fault of the 
 riders, for Mrs. Langtry, The Bishop of Oxford, John 
 Bright, The Grand Old Man, Mrs. C. West, Rachel, Sims 
 Reeves, the Masher, were jolly-like donkeys. My animal 
 rejoiced in the name of Lady Godiva ; she had very long 
 hair and very little tail, very little girth and rather short 
 reins, but nevertheless was equal to the two-mile ride, and 
 covered the ground in splendid style. 
 
 Fare for boat to shore, each person, . .is. 
 Fare for donkey to Suez, . . . .is. 
 
 Suez is, or rather should be, the most healthy town in the 
 world ; no extremes of heat or cold ; just enough rain to 
 render it cool and fertile, but the sanitary arrangements are 
 simply awful ; hence it is a hot-bed of every infectious 
 disease known. Less than two months ago the cholera 
 raged here, and at all corners of the streets you can even 
 now see the fumigating ovens. The place is without excep- 
 tion the vilest hole I have ever seen, insect life in veritable 
 clouds. The streets are the original soil simply hardened 
 by the daily treading of 13,000 bare feet. The Suez native 
 
Letters from Abroad. 17 
 
 bazaar is undoubtedly the most filthy quarter of a mile I 
 have ever walked through ; covered with rotten canvas to 
 protect the stall-keepers from the sun. Such stall-keepers! 
 dirty copper-coloured Egyptians, clad in soiled white flowing 
 garments, red-turbaned, and barefooted. Crowds of nearly 
 naked children, most of them with eyes more or less weak, 
 in which they allow the flies to pitch and remain ; innumer- 
 able dogs fighting and tearing the garbage under the stalls, 
 and to that add one big smell more than enough to over- 
 power the odour of five good strong cigars, and Suez in a 
 mild form stands before you. Everything is novel and 
 nasty. I was very glad to get into the boat, and sail quietly 
 back to the steamer. As the sun went down the sky became 
 one rich sheet of orange. Abdallah, our boatman, then 
 washed his feet, hands, face. Standing in the bows, facing 
 Mecca, he recited in a clear, soft voice his evening 
 prayer, calling upon Allah, bowing at the same time with 
 deep devotion. Fourteen fresh passengers joined us at 
 Suez, mostly old Australians. Now nearly every seat and 
 berth are occupied. 
 
 8//z Dec. As I am writing on deck, we are leaving the 
 Gulf of Suez, surrounded with its strikingly serrated but 
 intensely arid hills, and in a few moments the Red Sea will 
 be entered. Everything quiet and warm. The native 
 barber operated on my head to-day, and cut the hair in a 
 perfect line a la basin. The saffron hue of the eastern sky 
 is very peculiar, and lends a lurid look to every thing and 
 
 person. I believe the Red Sea takes its name from the 
 
 2 
 
1 8 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Pink Hills on the Egyptian side. I expected to see all the 
 ships' officers attired in the smart white uniform of the 
 P. and O. service, but the Captain was the only one so 
 dressed to-day; doubtless, to-morrow will bring out this 
 suitable costume. 
 
 Sunday, the gth Dec. At 6.30 the cry of a "Man over- 
 board," and the sudden reversing of the engines brought 
 
 L , myself, and dozens of passengers on deck. In 
 
 fact, we were on deck in a moment. Although only a 
 couple of minutes could have elapsed, the poor fellow was 
 not to be seen with the naked eye. As he went over, two 
 life-buoys were sent after, and as the stately ship slowly 
 backed, we heard the good news from the bridge that the 
 Lascar was safe on the top of both. Soon we could see him 
 waving his hand, his red turban showing bright on the 
 waves. A boat was lowered, and in nineteen minutes he 
 was alongside. I can assure you it was a fine thing to hear 
 the hearty cheer go through the ship as the dark-skinned 
 sailor stepped aboard; we were all afraid of sharks, of 
 which the Red Sea is full. Very warm ; all dressed in 
 white or light clothes, the stewards with blue jackets, white 
 shirts, and white trousers, the officers white flannels, and the 
 passengers in every kind of body-furniture, from black frock 
 coats to white silk suits. The best for warm weather and 
 general use is a very light drab serge suit and two pair 
 trousers of the same material instead of one. White suits 
 are nice looking, but not really necessary. The less luggage 
 one has the better. I have about the least on board, but 
 
Letters from Abroad. 19 
 
 mine is far too much. A cheap pith helmet is useful, if bought 
 at Port Said, and then flung away. The smash has come ; 
 the whole ship is more or less split up into sets. About a 
 
 dozen of us, L and self included, simply say " How do 
 
 you do ? " to the ladies, but nothing more. The night of 
 the ball two ladies went to bed in a pet because they could 
 not get partners. Thank goodness, the men are all right ; 
 and we have no end of pleasant chats in the smoking-room. 
 The ladies are regular cats, and openly say all manner of 
 evil of each other. The husbands have been trying to 
 do what they can, but to very little purpose. Women 
 that I myself have seen gushing over each other less than a 
 week ago now pass staring one another out of countenance. 
 It is most amusing to watch this little game. Of course 
 there are men who might be more pleasant, but, as a rule, 
 in this ship they are all right. The man who is disliked on 
 board ship is the one who insists on having a certain arrange- 
 ment of his deck-chair without consulting the wishes of 
 his neighbour, or the one who stays in the bath-room twenty 
 minutes, while he knows that ten "pyjamahed and betowelled" 
 unfortunates are standing in a more or less blasphemous 
 state outside in the draughty passage. We used the punkahs 
 to-day for the first time, and found them nice, but not quite 
 necessary. Service as usual, but the parsons having also 
 
 split up, the affair has fallen out of B 's hand (an 
 
 Englishman), and now managed by a long-boned Scot. 
 Afternoon tea is a great thing. You can sit at a table and 
 literally hear one set cutting up another. Names and 
 
20 
 
 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 details could afford no real interest to you, so avoid giving 
 them. Heat in cabin very great I think about 85 at 10.30 
 P.M. The punkahs make the saloon very cool. They are 
 2-in. poles, 20 feet in length, with heavy damask hanging 
 1 8 inches down, and pulled gently but swiftly by Hindoos 
 in clean white robes and red turbans. We have 15 punkahs 
 in the saloon, and want them now. 
 
 Monday, zoth Dec. Some of you may like to know the 
 meaning of the ship's bells, so I will give them under: 
 
 i bell, 
 
 . J 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 . i 
 
 3 jj 
 
 *i 
 
 4 
 
 . 2 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3j 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 1 jj 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 3 jj 
 
 Si 
 
 4 ,j 
 
 . 6 
 
 Bells for jfo/Ty-officered steamer 
 
 O'clock A.M. 
 
 5 bells, . 6J o'clock A.M. 
 
 6 
 
 >, - 7 
 
 jj jj 
 
 7 
 
 - 7i 
 
 jj jj 
 
 8 
 
 . 8 
 
 jj jj 
 
 i 
 
 jj 8J 
 
 jj jj 
 
 2 
 
 jj - 9 
 
 jj jj 
 
 3 
 
 j, - 94 
 
 jj 
 
 4 
 
 jj IO 
 
 j jj 
 
 5 
 
 jj IO..2" 
 
 jj jj 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 jj .11 
 
 jj jj 
 
 7 
 
 jj II? 
 
 jj jj 
 
 8 
 
 .12 noon. 
 
 It is next to impossible to give you any idea of this truly 
 beautiful day a very gentle breeze moving softly under the 
 double awning, renders the heat powerless, and gives a 
 balmy warmth to the body. Sea perfectly calm, without 
 a ripple or motion of any kind. My costume consists of a 
 
Letters from A broad. 2 1 
 
 white coat, white trousers, white silk shirts, and nothing 
 else. The sets are more marked than ever. I have, as I 
 said before, joined no set, but I take my afternoon tea with 
 
 Mrs. B and Mrs. F (the daughter of Sir H 
 
 R ), both exceedingly quiet nice people; they don't 
 
 expect you to be always dangling after them. If a man 
 regularly joins a set of matrons and young people on board 
 a ship, I will not say that he is to be always hanging about 
 them, and generally making himself agreeable, but I will 
 say this, that it is expected that he will not make himself 
 agreeable to any other set in fact, if he shows a touch of 
 disregard all the better. Lemon squash has taken the place 
 of evening grog; I am thankful to say a more sober lot of 
 people I have rarely come across. I intend sleeping on 
 deck to-night, for it gives promise of great heat. I think 
 I may have told you that sometimes a number of emigrants 
 die from " sun-heat " going down the Red Sea, and in June 
 and July (I believe) the government will not allow them to 
 be forwarded. We did sleep on the "main hatch," quite 
 open to the sky and the faint evening breeze, but even 
 with a simple sheet, we were all in a complete bath of 
 perspiration. I slept on until 5.15, when the deck-hose, by 
 accident^ of course, landed its contents on my head. No more 
 sleep, as you may imagine, for bed, pillows, and self were 
 drenched. It was a curious sight to lie on one's back and 
 see the bright silver moon shining between the spars and 
 the rigging, but my curiosity being satisfied, I shall return 
 to my berth for the future, and brave the heat rather than 
 
22 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 risk such a cold surprise. We were entertained with a very 
 fair concert for an hour and a-half, but it lacked " go." 
 The sunset was a dusky orange without a cloud. 
 
 nth Dec. About 85 in the shade, but altogether a 
 beautiful day. Passed in the night the straits of Babel- 
 Mandeb (Gate of Lamentations), and in the distance Aden 
 soon came in view. 
 
 i2/7? Dec. L and I kept our state-room, but three 
 
 other men took our places on the main hatch; two set to 
 work, and made the third an apple-pie bed, and of course 
 
 as C (the third man) came down the gangway, they 
 
 pretended to be asleep, he having gone through his 
 devotions, prepared to get into bed, and discovering its 
 condition, immediately turned the others head over heels, 
 but I cannot portray the bolster fight that took place 
 between these three men. Everything was in ribbons in a 
 few minutes; the audience up above added to the row, by 
 pitching down mats, rope, water, brooms, &c. how they 
 ever got cool and settled down, remains a mystery. I was 
 awakened by a slap of water through the port, and was very 
 soon enjoying a jolly cold bath, for sleep, after everything 
 is wet, being quite out of the question. Spent after- 
 noon in chatting and reading. The walk after dinner 
 was exquisite clear sky, soft breeze, dim light from the 
 moon. 
 
 13^ Dec. With the same steady head-wind, life has 
 become rather wearisome; bull-board, quoits, cricket, smok- 
 ing, reading and sleeping form the staple products of a 
 
Letters from Abroad. 23 
 
 ship's amusements. No one cares to write; hence the least 
 pretence to a readable diary becomes next to impossible 
 but, as I said at starting, I am only writing for those who 
 will take some little interest from its personality. We are 
 all looking forward to seeing Ceylon, and hope to be there 
 for two or three days. A trip to Kandy will be our aim, 
 for the railway ride is one of the most sensational in the 
 world. We have a very perfect machine on board for 
 making ice, and used also for general purposes of refrigera- 
 tion. We have ices at tiffin, good in quality and quan- 
 tity. The Doctor has two or three cases of illness, but 
 we all sincerely trust they may not terminate fatally. One 
 
 young lady (a Miss W ), suffering from great debility 
 
 and a weakened spine, on her way to Melbourne, to be 
 married ; the ceremony should take place two days after her 
 arrival. This I fancy cannot be. She holds a very small 
 levee every afternoon ; I generally read and chat to her for 
 an hour or so. My cold still sticks about me, in fact, the 
 immense wind-sails create a draught all over the ship, and 
 dozens have colds in the head very unpleasant, the colds 
 I mean, about 87 in the shade. I fancy before night we 
 shall run into weather; the motion has suddenly become 
 quite perceptible, and we are passing the celebrated Garde 
 da Fui, noted for the number of shipwrecks more than a 
 dozen in the last year or so. The current has a set toward 
 the shore a bare sandy coast, with rocky back-ground. As 
 I am writing a nasty flop has found its way into the saloon, 
 so my words are unfortunately coming true. 
 
24 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Afternoon tea with Mrs. B , the Captain, and Mrs. 
 
 F . The Captain never comes past this coast, except 
 by day; the passage is considered very dangerous. I am 
 invited to a private dinner party this evening, but rather 
 fear the sea will deprive the table of one at least of its 
 number. Very jolly little dinner party three ladies and 
 three men; the steamer was very good during the meal, but 
 shortly after a north-east monsoon commenced, and in less 
 than an hour no ladies and very few men remained on 
 deck. On my way to my state-room I passed lots of 
 suspicious looking cans, and I very much fear old Neptune 
 is having a good time of it. 
 
 i^th Dec. During the night the monsoon gave the 
 Carthage a bad dusting; every port closed, a great many 
 ill all night, one or two ladies fainting from sickness and 
 heat, only a very few at breakfast. A dead, hard, head- 
 wind, the waves constantly breaking over her bows, very 
 slow progress, and, although I liked the breeze, there was 
 a pretty general show of discomfort. Have I mentioned 
 the thrush? We have a beauty on board,' in full song. 
 The remaining grouse are still alive. Have now returned 
 from deck wet through, a flop pitched clean over me, so 
 good-bye for to-day. This wretched monsoon will continue 
 all the way to Colombo, may be not quite so heavy the 
 monsoon is the trade-wind of the tropics. Fancy, I have 
 been on board three weeks ! No merry parties at after- 
 noon tea to-day; everybody with a yellow face and quick 
 movement, as they vanish through the saloon to seek the 
 
Letters from Abroad. 25 
 
 quiet and repose afforded by solitude. Curtain drawn 
 here. 
 
 I5//2 Dec. Confound the monsoon ! A dead head-wind, 
 only doing 250 miles; nearly all bad. The ports all closed, 
 and our state-rooms are simply stuffy beyond endurance; the 
 heat out of the wind is very great, the good ship sticks hard 
 at it, sending the spray rainbow-tinted all over her bows. 
 We pass through thousands of flying fish, many of these 
 beautiful creatures, making flights from 30 to 70 yards. 
 One old lady last night got into no end of a row, for curling 
 her wig with irons heated from a naked spirit lamp, all 
 lamps save those supplied by the ship's officers being very 
 properly out of order. The Captain told me that he had 
 been in seven ships when on fire, and no less than five fires 
 were caused by ladies. It is nearly impossible to write, for 
 the Carthage is pitching very heavily, the waves in Sinbad's 
 sea are anything but tiny. Six ladies fainted last night with 
 the stifling cabin heat; I feel awfully sorry for them, for 
 sickness in a close little chamber must be very bad. The 
 Carthage is a grand ship. 
 
 Sunday -, i6th Dec. The night has been quiet, and the 
 sea having gone down, nothing remains but a long roll. 
 Service but poorly attended. We all of us found the 20 
 minutes' sermon too much of a good thing. In coming 
 out of the music-room this morning I tried to avoid a lady's 
 dress, and in doing so struck my head against the doorway 
 heavily; but it's nothing now, a quiet rest having put 
 me all right. A number of seedy boys are very bad, the 
 
26 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 great heat in the engine-room having knocked them up. 
 The doctor has a lot to do, no end of people feeling the 
 heat. Last night I simply lay still and uncovered in my 
 berth, and even then I was literally melted. Since leaving 
 Malta I have been most careful in living. 7/30. Bath, 
 at nine breakfast one cup tea, bacon, eggs, chop, toast, and 
 marmalade. Absolutely nothing between meals, no matter 
 what the temptation. Tiffin soup, cold meat, pickles, and 
 two glasses of claret. Cup of tea at four. Dinner and two 
 glasses of claret at six. At 9.30 lemon or lime squash, one 
 cigarette, one cigar, and one pipe being now more than my 
 average. My hands and face are very brown, especially in 
 contrast to my white dress. 
 
 \*]thDec. (Monday). To-day, just after breakfast, a white 
 squall came down upon us. The sea at 9.45 was smooth as 
 glass, at ten the whole surface of the ocean was one sheet of 
 white foam. The rush to get the sails, wind-sails, awnings 
 in, was immediate. The howling of the squall, as it struck 
 the ship and tore through the rigging, was a new experience ; 
 the sheets of rain, the weird cries of the Hindoos, the rush 
 of passengers to get out of the huge drops of rain, the flying 
 spray in short, the "nautical stampede" was sudden, unusual, 
 and picturesque. 10.30. The storm was over, the sea calm, 
 the sun smiling, and the white squall a thing of the past. 
 
 iSf/i Dec. Nearing the Maldives. Palm trees showing 
 indistinct in the early morning. All the islands we passed 
 are only two or three feet above the level of the sea, and the 
 cocoa-nut palms appear to be growing out of the water. Of 
 
Letters from Abroad. 27 
 
 course, all these islands are of coral formation, inhabited by 
 a race of Hindoos. Sword-fish abound here, some 18 feet 
 in length. Everybody is unpacking, packing, hair-cutting, 
 hair-washing, and very generally preparing for a run ashore. 
 The heat at Colombo is generally excessive, and nine hours 
 in a railway carriage may hardly be thought a treat, but 
 from what I hear the sensation railway to Kandy is unique. 
 1 think to-day, for the first time, the cold I started with has 
 left me. The invalids are better. Those who have been 
 paying tribute to Neptune are on deck, and the Great Hotel 
 goes on. If you take the map you will see that we are 
 nearing the equator. We fancy we shall be crossing about 
 Christmas Day ; at all events I shall calculate back, and at 
 2.30 I shall do a solitary drink to "absent friends" at home. 
 
 igt/i Dec. Blowing half a gale; the confounded N.E. 
 monsoon still hard at it. I very much fear that landing at 
 Colombo to-night will be next to impossible. The cata- 
 marans, or surf-boats, are dangerous in anything like a rough 
 sea. The rising and falling of the N.E. monsoon is rapid, 
 but the wind always from same quarter. At Colombo the 
 Great Hotel will take in coal, water, fruit, sheep, oxen, eggs, 
 &c., and then resume her voyage. 
 
 There is something delightfully pleasant in the voluptuous 
 languor which the soft air of a calm evening in this southern 
 sea occasions, and I fully appreciate lying back in my chair 
 quietly smoking and watching the gorgeous sunset. I shall 
 never forget the impression made by last evening. The sun 
 had just gone down, leaving the sky dyed with the richest 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 tints of carmine, shaded with deep, deep orange, gradually 
 fading away in pale drab, when from the opposite quarter 
 the moon moved slowly upward as bright as silver. The 
 moon at the full in these tropical regions is a glorious sight. 
 We have seen the " Southern Cross," but, as far as we can 
 make out, this constellation is a fraud. In haste for post. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 2\st Dec. DEAR ALL, I suppose I must give you some 
 idea of our short visit to Ceylon. Any traveller's book 
 would certainly be more accurate, readable, and probably 
 less expensive, for, by-the-bye, the posting of the last batch 
 of this confounded old diary cost 6s., and I have serious 
 thoughts in the future of giving page so and so of known 
 authors. We went ashore after dinner in a boat pulled by 
 lusty, dusky, noisy, cocoa-nut oil-smelling natives, and soon 
 found ourselves located in the Oriental Hotel, a huge cara- 
 vansary with a decidedly British twang about everything 
 the large verandah crowded with the smart, well-set English 
 officer, brawny colonials, bronzed planters, and our charming 
 countrywomen. White costumes for men prevailed, but 
 here and there a dash of colour made the grouping attrac- 
 tive. We retired early, and if my bedroom be a fair 
 specimen, the chance visitor has little to complain of; very 
 lofty and open to the tiled roof, where the green lizard larks 
 
Letters from Abroad. 29 
 
 about at will, the same pretty creature A and I saw 
 
 together in Italy. The open window has a small balcony, a 
 very convenient perch for the crow ; and I can safely say 
 the Cingalese crow is the most impudent beggar in the 
 world (excepting, perhaps, the Christiania sparrow). They 
 fly in everywhere. This morning my next-door neighbour 
 had his toast quietly removed by a sleek and well-to-do 
 gray-headed old fellow while he was shaving. I lay upon 
 the hardest mattress I have ever used, and, adopting the 
 daily dress of the Cingalee, I let my mosquito curtains down 
 and enjoyed the first night ashore. Up at five, and on the 
 platform at 6.45. The line to Kandy is Government pro- 
 perty. The Governor himself (Sir Arthur Gordon) and Mr. 
 Plimsoll, of rotten- ship fame, were fellow-passengers during a 
 great portion of the distance. For the first 40 miles the 
 track lies through a flat marshy country, suggestive of fever, 
 ague, &c., but rich in bright green paddy fields (young rice), 
 skirted with batches of cocoa palms and large-leaved forest 
 trees. Behind these clumps the natives build their village of 
 mud huts, all with overhanging roofs. The tawny river 
 Kalingganga moves swiftly to the sea, making Ceylon one 
 of the most productive countries in the world rich in 
 vegetation, and abounding with precious stones ; no bare 
 spot of earth to be seen, the very mountains are covered to 
 the summit. Passed stations, with barefooted native porters, 
 the platforms crowded with brown-skinned children anxious 
 to sell bananas, pines, cocoa-nuts, and dozens of fruits I 
 have never seen before, modestly attired in the brilliantly- 
 
3O Letters from Abroad. 
 
 coloured handkerchiefs of modern civilisation. Occasionally 
 the saffron toga of the Buddhist priests stood out conspicuous. 
 Soon we commenced the gradual ascent through the moun- 
 tains, but it is quite out of the question for my pen to even 
 feebly convey to you the brilliant colour and immense 
 variety of tropical flowers expanding to the morning sun. 
 Rain had fallen during the night; every leaf and flower 
 looked bright and fresh. A steamy mist almost insensibly 
 intensified the beauty of extravagant nature. Try and pic- 
 ture to yourselves grove after grove of slender cocoa-nut 
 palms crowned with feathery leaves, and rich in bunches of 
 dark-green nuts, each grove of palms interspersed with huge 
 glossy-leaved trees names unknown to me. Many of these 
 trees are covered with the tangled orange-flowered lantana ; 
 the alamanda, with its deep yellow bloom twining in con- 
 trast to the lilac beaugain-villea, large blue convolvulus 
 creeping everywhere. This repeated in every variety of 
 form will give you some slight idea of our beautiful journey. 
 Close to the line you might easily distinguish large numbers 
 of pine-apples, shaded from dark-green to golden-red. Passed 
 thousands of plantains, strings of green bananas hanging 
 from under their huge flat leaves. Hurrying onwards by 
 small lakes covered with water-lilies in full bloom, striking 
 in variety, each little lake fringed with the fancy-spotted 
 caladium. Here and there a native fishing. Onward past 
 every variety of glossy croton, the scarlet passion flower, 
 intense in colour, hanging in rich festoons. The melon grow- 
 ing at will over some friendly tree or native hut, the pink 
 
Letters from Abroad. 31 
 
 petalled claradendron trailing over its nearest neighbour, 
 ferns and flowers pushing out from every crevice, the crimson 
 Hibiscus, not content with its single variety, must out-Herod 
 Herod, and charm the eye in every direction with its deep 
 double cluster. Onward and gradually pressing upward by 
 the power of two engines, winding round and round the 
 mountain side, through tunnels heavy with moisture, past 
 coffee plantations, now giving place to the tea shrub or 
 cocoa plant, for I am sorry to say that in Ceylon the coffee 
 plant has failed for years, and many a man, considered to be 
 rich ten years ago, is now poor and nearly hopeless, although 
 still hanging on to property that has depreciated fully 75 per 
 cent. Ceylon is a hot-bed for snakes of many kinds. 
 Amongst the most inviting I fancy the cobra, tickpolonga, 
 rat-snake, anacrite; after the bite of this last, the blood 
 is forced in dying agony through the pores ; and to give 
 some idea of the number, I will mention the plan generally 
 carried out in a bungalow, viz., to balance large nails on the 
 iron open work of the verandah round the bedrooms, so 
 that the nail may fall as noisily as possible on the stone 
 beneath, and thus give notice to the native of the presence 
 of these nasty brutes. Butterflies are numerous, but, as far 
 as I can judge, feathered life is rather scarce. I was for- 
 tunate enough to see a jungle crow black body with red 
 wings. 
 
 Sensation Rock is about the highest point of this grand 
 engineering work, and the line is simply cut into the side of 
 the solid cliff. As you look out of the carriage window you 
 
32 Letters front Abroad. 
 
 see nothing but the bright green paddy fields hundreds of 
 feet below, the edge of the cliff being less than two feet 
 from the wheels. High above rich vegetation crowns the 
 top of the mountains. Adam's Peak, owing to the heavy 
 moisture, was not to be seen. The Bible Rock stands out 
 in bold relief on the other side of the valley. 
 
 Shortly after passing this wonderful place we arrived at 
 Kandy, the nominal capital of the island, but in reality the 
 seat of government is Colombo. I noticed here the grand 
 acacia trees, their beautiful quivering leaves showing dark 
 and rich in the humid atmosphere, and I repeat, as I have 
 always said, a small acacia, well grown and properly man- 
 aged, is far ahead of many others as a table-plant. The damp 
 air, the flies, and the dust make it next to impossible to 
 write. Kandy is a straggling native town, high up in an 
 upland valley, rich in foliage. The Queen's Hotel pro- 
 duced a very jolly lunch. A visit to the Temple of 
 Buddha (where the old gentleman's tooth is preserved), a 
 stroll through the market, where natives chew the beetle- 
 nut, and allow the vermilion stain to trickle from the mouth 
 over their dusky skin. The police court is a curious place, 
 and no Cingalee is thought of any importance unless he has 
 at least one case always before the court. 
 
 We were bound to start at two on the return journey, to 
 avoid any chance of missing the ship. I was glad to avail 
 myself of information very simply and pleasantly given by 
 
 Mr. H , a planter of some years' standing. The scenery 
 
 on the homeward journey was, of course, simply reversed. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 33 
 
 Nothing I hope will ever efface such beautiful pictures from 
 my memory the hundreds of shades of brilliant green, 
 lighted up by red flashes of Pointcettia or pointed 
 Dracoena, the herds of tame buffalo, the groups of natives, 
 the jungle-tree with its bunches of tulip-shaped flowers, the 
 humid atmosphere heavy in moist heat, put me in mind 
 of old Gatcombe stove-house, and, as you will remember, 
 many of the flowers I have named were there. I know you 
 will all be tired long before you get to this. 
 
 A good dinner and a dance ended a very pleasant and 
 interesting day. Colombo with its red streets and white 
 blinding houses, would no doubt have been very full of 
 novelty, but time did not allow of much exploration. The 
 jewellers and curio dealers are without exception the 
 most awful rascals in the world they will readily ask ^75 
 for a ring, and then take 55. The quantity of Birmingham 
 jewellery imported here is fabulous; of course there are 
 plenty of good stones to be bought and bought reasonably, 
 
 and under the guidance of Dr. R , a man who has 
 
 bought .700 at one time and another, I managed to get 
 a ring or so. The snake-charmer is here in full force, the 
 reptiles crawl all over him, or fight with the mangoose 
 for the amusement (?) of travellers. 
 
 Having paid a fairly reasonable bill, we drove to the 
 landing stage, and soon found ourselves on board the 
 Carthage, in the midst of a babel of noise, dust, dirt, heat 
 and confusion. It is quite beyond human power to convey 
 to others the scene on board a P. and O. ship in Colombo 
 
 3 
 
34 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Harbour. The natives crowd round the ship in the native 
 catamaran, a narrow boat, with a huge fixed wooden out- 
 rigger; these dusky gentry swarm over the sides with fruit, 
 sticks, jewellery, lace (fresh from Nottingham), precious stones 
 (straight from the glass-works), tortoise-shell work, Indian 
 silver-work, ebony elephants, and every variety of rubbish 
 all haggling at once, shouting and laughing; the noisy 
 crane moving, the donkey engine going, the great heat, the 
 coal dust, the closed ports, and you may be sure I was glad 
 to see the deck cleared of these dirty rascals, to feel the old 
 screw revolve, and once more to steam away in our floating 
 hotel. In a few hours, low-lying Colombo was a thing of 
 the past. Don't buy stones here unless you have somebody 
 who really knows something about them. Streeter, of Bond 
 Street, has a place here, but at London prices. Silva & Co. 
 are also to be trusted. Cingalee tea is pungent and good. 
 
 Sunday, zyd Dec. Just fancy! only two days to 
 Christmas day, doubtless with you heralded in with snow. 
 
 I picture you all looking forward to A , A . and 
 
 P Is visit. I can picture the little preparations for the 
 
 holiday, and B 's Christmas tree. We crossed the 
 
 equator to-day, at a little before noon; being Sunday, no 
 fun or demonstration took place, in fact, the old-fashioned 
 frolic of King Neptune has gone out of date with the rapid 
 service of modern times. The heat under double awnings 
 is about 85 in the coolest part of the ship. This heat is 
 very moist; everybody gets gluey and sticky, but on the 
 whole, we have every reason for being more than thankful. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 35 
 
 Last night, L and I got on deck at 4 a.m., to see the 
 
 Southern Cross, and this time the constellation was no 
 fraud; the moon was at the quarter, and intensely bright. 
 It is quite beyond me to portray the brilliancy of the stars ; 
 of course, the great bear and other old friends are away 
 from us. Attended morning and evening service. I fancy 
 
 I mentioned that a Dr. R put me on to buying some 
 
 stones at Colombo the home of the sapphire. We had 
 been talking of snakes, snakes, all the evening, and, of 
 course, I must go and dream of the nasty reptiles, and 
 awake with the impression that a big cobra was quietly 
 coiled on my chest. I was on my back asleep, and a heavy 
 woollen shirt must have fallen from the rack on my chest; 
 the heat caused thereby gave this horrid nightmare the 
 very thought of it is real even now. 
 
 2^th Dec. Hot and muggy, and I can safely say 
 
 " There is nothing on board half so sweet as a plunge, 
 In a jolly big bath, with a jolly big sponge." 
 
 I am sorry to state that one of the passengers, P T , 
 
 did exactly the same as I did, viz., strike his head against 
 the lintel, but far more severely ; for concussion of the brain 
 and a scalp wound were the result. He is conscious now, 
 but we all fear he may suffer. We saw a water-spout to-day 
 coiling darkly about a mile ahead; it dispersed suddenly, 
 and immediately after we got in for a real tropical shower 
 huge drops nearly touching each other; all more or less wet 
 through before we could gain shelter. The normal con- 
 
36 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 dition of a diary-man is want of news no oracle or 
 spirit-rapper on board. Some ladies think the men on 
 board the Carthage prefer their "horrid pipes and smoking- 
 room chat to flirting and gossiping with them in the 
 manner proper to the Southern ocean." One lady told me 
 she thought most of the men on board were " quiet men." 
 
 I always have my kettle-drum with Mrs. B and Mrs. 
 
 F . (I find she only lost her husband about three months 
 
 ago; she is very quiet and nice, about twenty-three). Writ- 
 ing on board ship in the tropics is really a species of 
 " mental gymnastics," equal in effect to waltzing in a Turkish 
 bath. The phosphorus last night was very bright, and in 
 these latitudes strikes the beholder with wonder and ad- 
 miration. It prevails in nearly all temperate waters, but 
 shows to fullest extent in the tropical seas, and proceeds 
 from a great variety of minute organisms, some soft and 
 gelatinous, others of minute "Crustacea." 
 
 A CHRISTMAS DAY ON THE INDIAN OCEAN. 
 
 2$th Dec. At breakfast nearly all the' men came out 
 in clean white flannels, or white cotton suits, the ladies 
 in light or white dresses, all looking cool, fresh and bright, 
 and nearly every plate had at least one, and many a bundle 
 of Christmas cards, brought away from loved ones at home, 
 and sacredly kept until the day; my letter and beautiful 
 card was duly appreciated. 
 
 A short service at ten brought nearly all the passengers 
 together. Then the quarter-masters carried the Captain 
 
Letters from Abroad. 37 
 
 and each of the officers round the deck in a chair, covered 
 with the Union Jack, the band playing and the men sing- 
 ing "For he's a jolly good fellow." At one we sat down 
 to a capital lunch, and how they ever cooked so many 
 large and really first-class dishes will always remain a 
 mystery to me. The cakes were made on board, and 
 weighed 60 Ibs. each, and stood over 3 feet high, and 
 were virtually wedding cakes, decorated with holly and 
 mistletoe: and what with pines, pomelas, oranges, pears, 
 apples, ices, and tarts representing the flag of the P. and O. 
 service, &c., custard, black currant jam, red currant jam, 
 and marmalade making black, white, yellow and red. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Sony. 
 
 Mock Turtle. Clear Spring. 
 
 Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 
 Salmon Cutlets, a la Madras. 
 
 Jugged Hare. 
 
 Green Peas, a la Bonne Hemme. Mutton Cutlets, a la Vicomtesse. 
 Petit Bonches, a la Financiere. 
 
 Roast Sirloin Beef. Roast Turkey and Sausages. 
 Chicken Curry. 
 
 Plum Pudding. Mince Pies. 
 Tipsy Cakes. Ice Puddings. 
 
38 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 HEAT 82 IN SHADE. 
 
 After a little rest and smoke, the athletic sports com- 
 menced. The obstacle race was hard work, and a rare 
 bit of fun. The competitors had to go from one end of 
 the deck to the other, and back again. The ist obstacle 
 was through three life-buoys swinging on a rope; 2nd, over 
 a high pole securely tied close to roof of awning; 3rd, a 
 rope fixed very tight, six inches from the deck; 4th, to 
 crawl through the windows of the engine-room; 5th, get 
 to top and run over the engine-room; 6th, creep through 
 a long wind-sail; yth, over a wire rope; 8th, under a low 
 form; Qth, over an oar on end close to awning. This 
 repeated, was jolly stiff work; two or three gave up many 
 knocks and cuts were received, and a little fainting gave 
 variety. I acted as nurse, tying up, plastering, bathing, 
 brandying and sodaing patients. The tournament followed: 
 Men on "pick-a-back," trying to dismount one another, 
 more frequently they rolled down in one confused heap. 
 The potato race 20 potatoes placed at regular intervals on 
 the deck, each to be fetched and deposited in a bucket. 
 The spoon and potato race each competitor with a dessert 
 spoon held between his teeth, holding a potato; any man 
 dropping the potato would of necessity lose the race. 
 The tug-of-war finished the entertainment. I can assure 
 you my afternoon tub was most refreshing. Most dress 
 suits for the evening ball consisted of blue yachting suits 
 and white vests. We danced from 8.30 to 11.30. The 
 
Letters from Abroad. 39 
 
 dinner, with its Christmas cheer, the toasts of the Queen, 
 Captain, &c., was very enjoyable. Curiously enough, 
 " absent friends " was drank at 8.30, just before going 
 to the ball-room, and that was 2.30 at home. A quiet 
 pipe finished my first Christmas day at sea a well-mixed 
 day of orthodox fun and good fellowship. 
 
 2&tk Dec. Upon looking out of my port, I noticed the 
 sea to be covered with broad streaks of some yellowish 
 
 drab substance. L > at once put it down to be 
 
 pumice stone, for large pieces frequently passed the ship, 
 and the open pores were visible. We at once connected 
 this curious sight with the Island of Java, where earth- 
 quakes and eruptions have lately so torn up and desolated 
 the place. Being only some 1,500 miles from there, the 
 N.E. trade-wind and the current had carried the light 
 substance with it. In appearance it was exactly like the 
 top of Vesuvias. This has been a quiet day, and half the 
 dancing men were sound asleep before noon. My in- 
 tellectual excitement consisted in reading a rubbishy novel. 
 
 2>jth Dec. N.E. trade-winds are blowing dead ahead, 
 making the ship nice and fresh, and bracing us up. I can 
 assure you we all more or less feel flabby, and to a certain 
 extent nerveless. We have about three dozen mangoose on 
 board, shipped for Australia, to help clear the rabbit pest. 
 By-the-bye, we have a man called Austin on board ; his 
 grandfather was the first to introduce the rabbit to the 
 colony. The piano is no unmixed blessing, for it is going 
 ALL day long. 
 
4O Letters from Abroad. 
 
 ODE TO THE PIANO BY A PASSENGER (NOT ME). 
 
 Tinkle, tinkle, all day long, 
 First a piece, and then a song; 
 
 Seldom anything that's new, 
 
 Seldom time or touch are true. 
 
 Tinkle, tinkle, night and day 
 How I wish some folks that play 
 
 Would try and learn the proper way, 
 
 Or silent let the piano stay. 
 
 I won another sweep to-day, making my total winnings 
 
 exactly ^"18, i8s., and again to-day L took the second 
 
 prize. No mosquitoes at present, but no end of cock- 
 roaches have taken up their quarters in the smoking-roorru 
 I still admire the Carthage. The parson can do a very 
 quiet walk to-day, and most of the invalids are better, but 
 warm muggy air cannot do otherwise than unbrace the 
 system. We run something under 300 miles in the twenty- 
 four hours. We fear it will be nearly a week before we see 
 King George's Sound, for the head wind pulls us back. A 
 mangoose ate his way through the wooden box to-day, and 
 created a scare, for the mangoose is supposed to be very 
 fond of new baby, and we have four or five on board. 
 
 2%th Dec. Nothing to say, nothing done, although a 
 beautiful and bracing day. The same deep blue sea. A 
 most peculiar sunset, with deep orange-coloured clouds, fringed 
 with bright gold. The superstitious Hindoos when they 
 saw it were alarmed, and thought the last day, or something, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 41 
 
 was coming, and whenever you met a Lascar he looked 
 quite upset. I must admit it had a weird appearance. 
 Sirius is very bright here. 
 
 SYDNEY 
 
 Population, 220,427. Distance from London, 12,136. 
 Local time, 10 hrs. 5 m. before Greenwich. Present cost 
 of telegram to England, IDS. lod. per word. 
 
 560, SYDNEY to MELBOURNE 
 
 Population, 282,981. Distance from London, 11,566. 
 Local time, before Greenwich, 9.40. los. 8d. per word. 
 
 ADELAIDE 
 
 Population, 37,892. Distance from London, 10,074. 
 9.14 before Greenwich. 
 
 COLOMBO to KING GEORGE'S SOUND 3,390 
 Distance from London, 6,703 miles. 
 
 29/7* Dec. As usual! Beautiful weather; a slight roll. 
 At 8.30 P.M. the stewards gave us a very good nigger 
 entertainment the bones and banjo were exceptional 
 performers, and many of the glees were well rendered. 
 Clog dancing and jokes were excellent. I will try and 
 remember one or two of the riddles : 
 
 "Why is our noble Captain like old Port? Because the 
 older he gets the better we like him." 
 
 " How is it the Captain of the Carthage is never lonely? 
 
42 Letters from A broad. 
 
 Because he has a companion in his cabin (companion 
 stair)." 
 
 " What is the difference between a glass of ale and a glass 
 of water ? 2d. (twopence)." 
 
 " Why does the Carthage resemble a silk handkerchief? 
 , Because she has stood many a good blow." 
 
 " How is it our noble doctor resembles a dead duck? 
 Because he has no quack in him." 
 
 " Why is a lady's silver belt like a dust-cart ? Because it 
 goes round and gathers in the waist." 
 
 "What is the difference between a lady and an umbrella? 
 One you can shut up ; try the other." 
 
 "Why do the stewards of the Carthage resemble race 
 horses? Because they clear cups, plates, steaks, and 
 gallop over the courses." 
 
 "Why do so many of the unmarried ladies like the 
 climate of Ceylon? Because there are so many single he's 
 there! (Cingalees)." 
 
 The concert was on deck, tne stage raised, and separated 
 by a running curtain, the enclosure covered with flags of all 
 nations, and the space capable of holding 150. "God save 
 the Queen," by all, ended a pleasant evening. 
 
 Sunday r , the ysth Dec. The sixth Sunday at sea. Awoke 
 to the rise and fall of a heavy swell. The ship rolling from 
 10 to 12 degrees. Beautiful, fresh, bracing day; vests and 
 underclothing resumed, and in the evening stroll greatcoats 
 were used. Here it is that careless people get colds ; some 
 
Letters from Abroad. 43 
 
 greet with a sneer of contempt the advice, " beware of the 
 cold evenings !" Very nice service, and a sermon of six and 
 a quarter minutes by the Rev. Archdeacon Dove. The 
 rev. gentleman and I have got quite chatty; he got on 
 board at Colombo, having passed the last six months in 
 India, and we have enjoyed many a good yarn about Italy 
 and India, and, wonderful to say, he quite agrees with me 
 that religion should be self-supporting. 
 
 3i.tf Dec. The last day of 1883. One of the most 
 glorious days I ever remember fine, bracing, and sunny. 
 Everybody in for enjoyment, and it will be long before I 
 forget the New-Year's Eve of 1883 songs, "Auld Lang 
 Syne," and, sad to tell, numerous whiskies, finished a year 
 full of many incidents. Won first and second prize in 
 sweep to-day, value ^9. 
 
 ist Jan., 1884. I cannot do better than give some idea 
 of this grand ship, the Carthage. Built by Caird & Co., of 
 Greenock (Glasgow), at a cost of ^160,000, 5,000 horse- 
 power, and 5,013 tons; she can carry 157 first-class and 46 
 second. No steerage. In fact, the 46 second are really 
 meant only for servants of the first class. The first-class 
 passengers' place, or hurricane-deck, is 212 feet in length, 
 and here it is we stroll up and down, smoke, read, &c. 
 She draws 26 to 27 feet water, and beam 48. The saloon 
 can dine imperfect comfort 148. Her average speed is 300 
 
 miles a-day, but I do not think her a fast boat. Mrs. B 
 
 and myself went over the engine-room to-day. They are 
 compound engines of the Tandem type (/>., one on the top 
 
44 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 of another), and beautifully kept. The ice-house and refri- 
 gerator are very useful, but a terrible affair took place a 
 voyage or two ago. The butcher was by accident shut in 
 the ice-room, and some hours after he was found frozen to 
 death. I made a snowball from the frozen water (or rather 
 air). The best cabins for men in this ship going to Australia 
 are the post-office cabins (spar deck), starboard side, or 102, 
 103, 104 (for two]. 69, 70 (ours), on port side, are good. 
 Always select cabins on starboard side going and port return- 
 ing. The crew consists of captain, six officers, eight quarter- 
 masters (all English), and 50 Lascars (sailors), and 50 seedy 
 boys (stokers, firemen, and engineers' attendants), one chief 
 engineer, and six assistant engineers. The Lascar is a 
 British subject, and means sea-faring Hindoo. Altogether 
 they are fine seamen for hot climates, but our cold at 
 home tries them very much during the short time they 
 are there. These Lascars enter the P. and O. service from 
 10 to 12 years of age, and then act as punkah boys, and 
 gradually rise. The best Lascars come from Gogo or Surat 
 The stewards number 38, and are all sharp, clean, well- 
 disposed men. 
 
 Have again won the second prize in the sweep ^3, and 
 
 L ^"3. My winnings have now amounted to ^30, but 
 
 that you may easily imagine is not all profit, and the phiz 
 (or fiz) it cost is something considerable; and, what with gifts 
 to organs, seamen's homes, &c., I fear I shall not have much 
 to thank my luck for, although it is altogether unprecedented. 
 I have won three first, four second, and half a first out of 13 
 
Letters from Abroad. 45 
 
 sweeps, and 50 entries each time. By the thoughtful kindness 
 that runs through and underlies the administration of affairs 
 on board this beautiful vessel, we have a grand lunch to-day 
 boar's head, large cakes, &c., and in short every luxury 
 you can think of, and our dinner to-night is to be something 
 quite out of the common. We all had a cheery new-year's 
 greeting for each other, and the bright, fresh day, the dancing 
 blue waves, the song of the thrush, the briskness engendered 
 by the bracing atmosphere, has given new life to all on 
 board. We expect to be at King George's Sound (Australia) 
 to-morrow at eight p.m. All are more or less excited. We 
 have a dance to-night on deck, but the theatrical perform- 
 ance comes off on Thursday and Friday, and Saturday is to 
 be dedicated to a fancy dress ball, so I don't think to-night's 
 dance will be up to much. It was not up to anything. 
 
 znd Jan. Got on deck about eight, and the bare, barren 
 rocks of Western Australia were seen on the starboard bow 
 quite close to us. We sailed abreast the low rocky coast all 
 day long. The Lascars hard at work getting up bales, casks 
 of coffee, &c., for King George's Sound. The punkahs are 
 now put away as useless, and the fresh air is quite invigo- 
 rating. The invalids are mostly on deck, and even now I 
 don't know the names of some few of our fellow-passengers. 
 After dinner, and just as we were all going ashore to see the 
 small town of Albany, two telegrams were placed in my 
 
 hand one directed to L and one to myself. I at once 
 
 thought of dear F and others at home, but another 
 
 sheet will tell the sad, sad tale. 
 
46 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 an. Some terribly sad news quite upset the ship 
 and altered our plans. 
 
 Theatricals, tableaux, took place in the evening, but I 
 cannot tell you what they were, for I did not go. Part of 
 the saloon was made into a regular stage. 
 
 4//z Jan. Very cold indeed; a regular draught through 
 the ship, and sneezing the order of the day. Nothing 
 particular, and for the most part we amused ourselves by 
 watching the flight of the albatross. Wax-works and 
 theatricals during the evening both of high merit. 
 
 WAX- WORK FIGURES 
 
 Little Bo-Peep. The Spotted Baby from Peru. Vivan- 
 diere. Nancy Lee. Daniel and the Lions (Daniel with a 
 Times newspaper and a topper-hat). Irish Squire. Gipsy 
 Flower Girl. Bushman. Rule Britannia. Showman and 
 Joe (the winder up). 
 
 DONE ON BOTH SIDES (Farce). 
 
 This was well acted by nearly all the artists. B - , 
 the parson, had a flash character, and he frequently used 
 the expressive, but hardly clerical damn, and many think he 
 should have selected another impersonation ; but, wherever 
 you go, you find the cloth try and adapt their religion 
 to the social requirements and conditions by which they are 
 surrounded. All are in grand excitement, preparing for 
 the ball; this, the last dance, is to be in fancy dress, and 
 
Letters from Abroad. 47 
 
 a lot of amusement is anticipated. The gets-up will be 
 very extraordinary. One lady is coming out as the Captain, 
 dressed in the full dress uniform of Captain Hector. 
 Another (at my suggestion) as the baby, but I will try 
 and remember them to-morrow. This being the last 
 dinner we can all possibly spend together, speeches and 
 an address to the Captain will be gone into. A good 
 many get out at Adelaide, so after to-night the voyage is 
 virtually at an end. 
 
 ^th Jan. Landed about 8.30 at Glenelg, the P. and O. 
 Port of Adelaide, but did not find young L as antici- 
 pated; so took cars to Adelaide, a distance of 6 miles, 
 and after some time found him at the York Hotel. The 
 Post-Office is really a grand building, the streets are very 
 wide and well laid out; many of the public buildings far 
 surpass ours at home. The country at this time of year 
 has a very dried-up look, and one can hardly realise that 
 cattle can thrive on such stuff, but they do. The best 
 building sites in Adelaide fetch as much as .600 per 
 foot frontage. We went over the botanical gardens, and 
 
 were introduced to Dr. S , the curator. Returned in 
 
 time for lunch; three o'clock saw us quietly steaming away. 
 I ought to mention that the weeping willow at Adelaide 
 grows more luxuriously than I could have imagined it 
 possible, and the variety of pine trees most astonishing. 
 The India-rubber (ficus) grow here rapidly, and are 
 generally used to form groves on each side of the street. 
 Soon after leaving, the old Carthage began to roll in a 
 
48 Letters from A broad. 
 
 most determined manner, the clinometer registering from 
 28 to 32. Over 100 glasses were smashed at one lurch, 
 and many an interesting tableaux took place on deck. 
 Music and cards, &c. 
 
 The 6th Jan. Did nothing but grumble. 
 
 7//z Jan. Still the same heavy roll, and packing was 
 next to impossible under the circumstances, but it had 
 to be done. I got everything in, but how, I won't say. 
 
 I was invited to dine with the R at the side table; 
 
 and I shall never forget that dinner our fiddles were made 
 for mid-ships, not for the side tables; glasses, tumblers, 
 soup, fruits, &c., whisked away in one melee, and then as 
 suddenly sent flying back again. This lasted for an hour 
 and a-half, and how many plates, glasses, &c., were 
 smashed, I cannot say. I christened this dinner a 
 " Charge of the Light Brigade." We said adieu to the 
 Captain and all we cared about. A jolly party in the 
 smoking-room finished a voyage of 48 days made nearly 
 in fine weather, and, taken all in all, the passengers 
 were kind, well-bred, and pleasant. 
 
 Tuesday, 8/7? Jan. Landed in great confusion. After 
 much trouble, we got all luggage passed, and safe at Scott's 
 
 (the best place for men). L and I were made members 
 
 of the Melbourne and Australian Clubs. Owing to the sad 
 news, we shall go over to New Zealand at once, and all 
 our plans are somewhat upset 11,585 miles, 47 days 7 
 hours, P. and O. Steamer. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 49 
 
 MELBOURNE. 
 
 Hotels. Scott's for gentlemen, Oriental and Menzies for 
 families. Australian and Melbourne Clubs, both high-class, 
 exceptionally good. Population about 300,000. Some of 
 the buildings are very fine, notably the new Law Courts. 
 Collins Street, Elizabeth Street, and Bourke Street are well 
 built, and nearly all streets are at right angles. Fitzroy and 
 Botanical Gardens are beautifully laid out. Race-course 
 simply perfection, and the cricket-ground unique for comfort 
 and size. 
 
 The climate of Melbourne is one of the most changeable 
 in the world, and it is no uncommon thing to see mornings 
 of bright, hot sunshine, with a scorching wind, change 
 within a few hours to afternoons of a biting cold, when the 
 strongest are thankful for ulsters or sealskin jackets. On 
 the hottest days people may be seen carrying heavy coats or 
 rugs in anticipation of the sudden change of weather that 
 may occur a gentleman living here gave me this information. 
 
 UNION STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S FLEET. 
 
 Gross 
 
 
 Gross 
 
 
 
 Reg. 
 
 I.H.P. 
 
 Built. 
 
 Reg. 
 
 I.H.P. 
 
 Built. 
 
 Rotomahana, 1727 
 
 2000 
 
 1879 
 
 Hero, . . 985 
 
 750 
 
 1861 
 
 Tarawera, . 
 
 
 2003 
 
 1750 
 
 1882 
 
 Penguin, . 
 
 
 749 
 
 900 
 
 1864 
 
 Waihora, . 
 
 
 2003 
 
 175 
 
 1882 
 
 Hawea, . 
 
 
 721 
 
 850 
 
 i875 
 
 Wairarapa, 
 
 
 1786 
 
 1750 
 
 1882 
 
 Wanaka, . 
 
 
 493 
 
 600 
 
 1876 
 
 Manapouri, 
 
 
 1783 
 
 175 
 
 1882 
 
 Omapere, 
 
 
 60 1 
 
 500 
 
 1882 
 
 Hauroto, . 
 
 
 1988 
 
 1500 
 
 1882 
 
 Taiaroa, . 
 
 
 438 
 
 500 
 
 1875 
 
 Te Anau, . 
 
 
 1652 
 
 1500 
 
 l8 79 
 
 Mahinapua, 
 
 
 423 
 
 500 
 
 1882 
 
 Wakatipu, 
 
 
 1797 
 
 1250 
 
 1876 
 
 Suva, . . 
 
 
 293 
 
 250 
 
 1876 
 
 Arawata, . 
 
 
 1098 
 
 1250 
 
 1875 
 
 Southern Cross, 
 
 282 
 
 250 
 
 1873 
 
 Ringarooma, 
 
 
 1096 
 
 1250 
 
 1875 
 
 Maori, . . 
 
 174 
 
 250 
 
 1867 
 
 Takapuna, 
 
 
 93 
 
 2OOO 
 
 1883 
 
 Beautiful Star, 
 
 177 
 
 150 
 
 1862 
 
 Rotorua, . 
 
 
 926 
 
 900 
 
 1876 
 
 Waihi, . . 
 
 92 
 
 IOO 
 
 1882 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
5O Letters from A broad. 
 
 SERVICES. 
 
 Intercolonial Services. 
 
 The steamers of the company leave Melbourne weekly for 
 all New Zealand ports, calling at Hobart every alternate 
 trip. They also make weekly departures from Sydney for 
 New Zealand, via Auckland and East Coast ports, and fort- 
 nightly via Cook Strait and Wellington. In addition, a 
 steamer is despatched from Melbourne once a month for 
 Suva and Levuka (Fiji), and another from Auckland (New 
 Zealand) for the same ports. 
 
 Coastal Sennces. 
 
 The coastal services include weekly steamers fromDunedin 
 (Port Chalmers) to Auckland, via East Coast ports, and vice 
 versa ; and to Manukau, via intermediate ports, and vice 
 versa; twice weekly between Wellington and Nelson, and 
 three times a week between Wellington and Lyttelton each 
 way. In addition to these, there are services twice a week 
 between Dunedin and Timaru each way : between Dunedin 
 and Oamaru each way, and weekly between Dunedin and 
 West Coast of Middle Island; while a special steamer runs 
 regularly between Wellington and Auckland, via Gisborne 
 and Napier, leaving each terminal port on alternate Mon- 
 days. 
 
 Express Service. 
 
 A new and special feature of the excursion season of 
 1883-84 is the initiation of an express passenger and mail 
 
Letters from Abroad. 51 
 
 service on the coast, by means of the company's new swift 
 and powerful s.s. Takapuna, particulars of which will be 
 found in the notice of excursion season arrangements. 
 
 15^ Jan. Got on board the Wairarapa, Union S.S. 
 Company, at three o'clock, after a struggle. She is a new 
 boat. The numerous passengers and their friends literally 
 swarmed the deck. This steamer is without exception the 
 most finished specimen of forethought and ingenuity I have 
 ever seen. Electric light all over the place, with a provision 
 in case of failure of the most perfect oil-lamps. She was 
 built by Denny Brothers, of Dumbarton, in 1882. Size 
 1,786 tons ; horse-power, 1,700. The saloon, social hall, 
 and smoking-rooms were simply superb. The unfortunate 
 part of the whole affair for us was that she carried 130 first- 
 class instead of 50, and only 250 tons instead of 1,700. Of 
 course we got in for a regular tossing. A heavy beam sea, 
 
 interspersed with fierce squalls, set the ship rolling. L , 
 
 son, and self were packed with one other into a cabin not 
 large enough for two no room for bags or anything, and 
 right up in the bows. Many slept in the passages. Alto- 
 gether, the five days' voyage was simply horrid, the very life 
 nearly rolled out of us, and, although not actually sick, we 
 all three felt ill effects. On the morning of Sunday we 
 steamed slowly into Milford Sound. When fairly abreast of 
 the entrance, the Mitre Peak (5,500 feet) came in sight, and 
 though 1,000 feet lower than Pembroke Peak (6,700), it is a 
 fitting companion for the latter, standing as they do one on 
 either side of the entrance. Where lay the passage it was 
 
52 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 hard to tell, for we looked as if steaming on to an unbroken 
 cliff till we suddenly rounded a point and found ourselves 
 right inside this gorgeous sound, putting me in mind of the 
 entrance to Christiansund (Norway). 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 IT is quite unnecessary for me to remind you that Captain 
 Cook was the first Englishman who, to our knowledge, 
 landed in New Zealand (1769), but the country was dis- 
 covered by a Dutchman 100 years before that, named Abel 
 Tasman hence Tasmania. The native Maories are, no 
 doubt, of Polynesian origin, and tradition points to the 
 Navigator Group as the most direct connection. The race, 
 now gradually dying out, have many good qualities they 
 are brave, generous, and very good humoured, and fond of 
 their children ; they give away things cheerfully, and accept 
 them in the same manner, but never thank you for a gift 
 in fact, they have no word in their language to express 
 that meaning. The New Zealand bush is very fine 
 indeed, and there are more than 100 different kinds of 
 forest trees the tallest and most useful being the kauri, 
 which often grows to 150 feet; it is beautiful in foliage and 
 valuable as timber; it produces an amber kind of gum, 
 but it grows only in the North Island here this gum is 
 found in great quantities under the ground where Kauri 
 forests have once stood. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 53 
 
 The rata is also a beautiful and curious plant; it is a 
 rope-like vine finding its " origin and support " in other 
 trees, which at last it presses to death, and the rata itself 
 becomes a strong and sturdy tree, bearing most beautiful 
 scarlet blossoms. We were rather late for the bloom, but, 
 nevertheless, saw and gathered some splendid bits. 
 
 A great curiosity is often dug out at the foot of the rata ; 
 it looks, and doubtless is, *a dead caterpillar, with a sort of 
 fungus like a bullrush growing out of its head, and from 
 this stem the young rata tree is formed, at least so a man 
 who sold us some specimens said. The ferns of New 
 Zealand are so well known that I will say nothing but this, 
 that no more charming sight can be imagined than an 
 undergrowth of these lovely plants ; 130 different varieties 
 are to be found here. There is nothing to fear in these cool 
 and dark forests, with their carpet of soft green moss and 
 fern, for snakes and wild animals are totally absent. A 
 solemn silence adds another peculiar charm. 
 
 This country is rich in minerals, and few can even 
 estimate what New Zealand contains. Gold has been 
 found in Otago, Westland, Nelson, and Hokitiki. Silver is 
 found in Nelson and Otago. Coal is found in great quan- 
 tities in many parts, chiefly in the Bay of Islands in the 
 north, Grey River in Westland, and the region of the 
 
 Waikato River. L and I visited the iron works 
 
 outside Auckland, and saw the iron-sand a curiosity very 
 interesting to both. It is of good quality, and practically 
 inexhaustible, but the works are at a stand-still. 
 
54 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Greenstone is found in Westland, lead is found in 
 Nelson and Otago, zinc in Auckland and Nelson, quick- 
 silver in the Bay of Islands. Excellent building stone in 
 many parts. There appear to be about 150 different kinds 
 of birds, the most curious being the wingless moa, standing 
 from 10 to 14 feet in height, now extinct. We saw a fine 
 specimen at the Christ Church Museum. Another strange 
 wingless bird called kiwi, is every now and again to be 
 found alive. There are many varieties of parrots, and some 
 paraquets. 
 
 The tui, or parson bird, called so from a bunch of white 
 feathers under the neck, is easily taught to talk. The 
 swamps, lakes, and rivers abound in wild duck, and the 
 angler can have the finest fishing in the Southern Hemi- 
 sphere, its creeks and rivers are literally teeming with fish, 
 and various acclimatisation societies have brought salmon 
 and trout hatching to perfection. Trout fishing season 
 begins October ist and ends 3ist March. They are very 
 large, but will not take the fly in Lake Wakatipu. Hares 
 and pheasants can be found, but the latter are faring very 
 badly owing to the poisoned grain being placed about to get 
 rid of the rabbits. By-the-bye, I must not forget to men- 
 tion the (phormium tenax) or flax plant, it is to be seen 
 nearly all over the islands; I fear the cost of preparation 
 will never make it a paying article of commerce. If you 
 see the flax growing, you may fairly suppose the soil to be 
 good. All the above little bits of information have been 
 picked up from observation, books, or gossip. The climate 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 55 
 
 of New Zealand, taken as a whole, is as good, if not better, 
 than any in the world, although the winds are sometimes 
 boisterous, and rains heavy. 
 
 The following extracts are copied verbatim from the Hand- 
 book of the Auckland Agricultural Company (Limited): 
 
 " And first as to climate and soil. There is no doubt that in this 
 respect New Zealand has great advantages for agricultural purposes 
 over the other colonies. Lying as it does between 34 30' and 47 30' 
 it is evident that, while it must contain a great variety of climate, there 
 cannot at ordinary altitudes be any great excess of heat or cold. The 
 climate of New Zealand, taken as a whole, is the best in the world. 
 Dr. Hector, in his handbook, page 51, thus describes the temperature: 
 
 "'The climate resembles that of Great Britain, but is more equable, the extremes 
 of daily temperature only varying throughout the year by an average of 20, whilst 
 London is 7 colder than the North, and 4 colder than the South Island of New 
 Zealand. The mean annual temperature of the North Island is 57, and of the South 
 Island 52; that of London and New York being 51. The mean annual temperature 
 of the different seasons for the whole colony is, in spring 55, in summer 63, in 
 autumn 57, and in winter 48.' 
 
 " The rainfall returns for Auckland are given : 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Autumn. 
 
 Total for Year. 
 
 32 
 
 25 
 
 19 
 
 24 
 
 47*008 ins. 
 
 Probability of rain : 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Autumn. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Mean Maxi- 
 mum in 
 24 hours. 
 
 o'6i 
 
 0'52 
 
 0'33 
 
 o'4i 
 
 0-47 
 
 3-358 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 "Abstract of comparative temperature taken over observations of 
 twenty years at Auckland : 
 
 
 Longi- 
 
 No. of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S. Lat. 
 
 tude 
 
 years ob- 
 
 Year. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Autumn. 
 
 
 East. 
 
 servation. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 36-50 
 
 I74-5I 
 
 20 
 
 59-50 
 
 52-34 
 
 57^ 
 
 66-92 
 
 61-16 
 
 Difference of 
 coldest and warm- 
 est months. 
 
 Yearly Means. 
 
 Yearly 
 Fluctuations. 
 
 Maximum. 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 1 6 '02 
 
 88-52 
 
 33'26 
 
 55'26 
 
 "The following figures show the comparative births and deaths in 
 New Zealand, as compared with the other colonies in Australasia : 
 
 
 Rate per 1,000 of Population. 
 
 
 
 
 Excess of 
 
 
 Deaths. 
 
 Births. 
 
 Births over 
 
 
 
 
 Deaths. 
 
 New Zealand, 
 
 I2f 
 
 411 
 
 230 
 
 Western Australia, . 
 
 14* 
 
 34 
 
 140 
 
 South Australia, 
 
 i6i 
 
 371 
 
 132 
 
 Victoria, . 
 
 16* 
 
 3*i 
 
 9 8 
 
 Tasmania, .... 
 
 164 
 
 3 
 
 82 
 
 New South Wales, . 
 
 18 
 
 371 
 
 108 
 
 Queensland, .... 
 
 i8| 
 
 37k 
 
 99 
 
 "The subjoined statistical table, copied from the Sydney Morning 
 Herald, is also interesting and valuable. It speaks strongly, though 
 unconsciously, by the force of official figures and returns, in favour of 
 New Zealand. 'What,' asks that journal, 'is Australasia doing 
 
Letters from A broad. 
 
 57 
 
 towards meeting the world's demand for bread ? To answer that, we 
 have constructed the following table, which our readers may find useful 
 in its application to many questions now agitating the public mind in 
 this colony : 
 
 WHEAT-GROWING IN AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 
 Cultivated. 
 
 Under Wheat. 
 
 Yield of Wheat. 
 
 New South Wales, . . 
 
 Acres. 
 5*3,%4<> 
 1,231,105 
 
 Acres. 
 145,609 
 401,417 
 
 Bushels. 
 
 2,391,979 
 5,279,730 
 
 South Australia, . . . 
 New Zealand, .... 
 
 1,514,916 
 2,940,711 
 
 1,083,732 
 141,614 
 
 5,857,569 
 4,H3>540 
 
 Total, .... 
 
 6,200,572 
 
 1,772,372 
 
 17,672,818 
 
 " The pre-eminence of New Zealand in this is remarkably manifest, 
 as the subjoined calculations, given in a recast form, and showing the 
 yield of wheat per acre in each colony, fully demonstrated. The 
 average yield from 1,772,000 acres is just a fraction under 10 bushels 
 per acre. The individual production per acre in each colony is as 
 under : 
 
 New Zealand, 
 
 New South Wales, 
 
 Victoria, 
 
 South Australia, . 
 
 Average yield 
 per annum. 
 
 29!" bushels. 
 
 13 
 
 "Which colony then carries away the palm? Undoubtedly New 
 Zealand. She produced per acre nearly three times the general 
 average of the whole of the four colonies. She has nearly double the 
 yield of New South Wales ; she gives two and a third times the pro- 
 duce per acre that Victoria can boast, and almost five and a half times 
 the quantity which South Australia yields. 
 
 "The following extract from a speech delivered by Sir Hercules 
 
58 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Robinson, K.C.M.G., the late Governor of New Zealand, will also be 
 read with interest : 
 
 " ' And now allow me to say that the first impressions which I have formed of New 
 Zealand are most favourable. I have already, in the few months I have been here, 
 visited most of the principal centres of population from Auckland in the north to 
 Invercargill in the south and I can truly say that the country appears to me to be 
 of surpassing interest and promise. The scenery is quite equal, if not superior to 
 anything I have seen in any other part of the world. I have been much struck also 
 with the extent and variety of the resources of the country, as well as with the 
 industry and energy, and marvellous rapidity with which they are being developed. 
 (Hear, hear.) Coming from Australia, I could not fail to note with admiration the ex- 
 traordinary richness of the soil, and its special adaptability for homestead settlement 
 upon comparatively small areas. (Cheers.) Your climate, too, is magnificent far more 
 enjoyable than that of the old country ; whilst it is equally favourable to the develop- 
 ment of British energy. The influence of climate and soil is, I think, clearly per- 
 ceptible upon the physical development and character of the population, for wherever 
 I have travelled I have found men brimful of energy, cheerful and contented with 
 their lot, believing thoroughly in the land of their adoption and determined to pro- 
 mote her advancement to a foremost place among the dependencies of the British 
 Crown. (Cheers.) I know of no sight more calculated to impress an Englishman 
 with feelings of pride and thankfulness than to travel through a great new country 
 like this, which was only first settled about forty years ago, and to see on all sides the 
 evidence which it affords of material progress and social improvement. To see great 
 cities like Christchurch, Dunedin, Wellington, Auckland, and Invercargill, which 
 have grown up as if by magic to see, as I did, mountains of grain stacked and 
 waiting shipment at Omaru and Timaru, the produce of districts which a few years 
 ago did not grow enough for their own consumption to see such a pastoral and 
 agricultural show as I inspected to-day, and of which many of the old countries of 
 Europe might well feel proud to see everywhere vast districts of country which 
 twenty-five years ago were unproductive, covered with flocks and herds, and corn 
 fields, and administering to the wants and contributing to the happiness of hundreds 
 of thousands of our race I say such sights as these make one feel proud of the 
 genius of our countrymen for colonisation, and confident as to the future of this great 
 country. (Cheers.) The resources of the land are boundless ; it is capable of sup- 
 porting in comfort and independence a population of many millions, and it offers, to 
 my mind, on the whole, more advantages than any other country in the world with 
 which I am acquainted to industrious and hard-working men. (Cheers.) Nature 
 has indeed been most bountiful to New Zealand. She has given her beautiful 
 scenery, a magnificent climate, a soil of unsurpassed fertility, and extensive seaboard, 
 a commanding position, and in short, every natural condition necessary for the repro- 
 duction here on these southern seas of a younger and happier Britain, exempt from 
 the stint and want and the misery which are unfortunately so common at times in the 
 old country, and offering a far more general participation in the good gifts which God 
 has so bountifully bestowed on this country.' " (Loud cheers.) 
 
 " The total area of New Zealand is about 64,000,000 acres, of which 
 

 Letters from Abroad. 59 
 
 about 12,000,000 acres are suitable for agriculture, about 30,000,000 are 
 better suited for pastoral purposes, and about 20,000,000 acres, of which 
 a large area when cleared will make good land, are covered with forest. 
 
 "The question of labour, which is generally considered to be the great 
 drawback to profitable farming in any new country, and which especially 
 concerns the 'all-round' farmer, to whom the price at which the various 
 operations of agriculture can be done is of the greatest importance. 
 
 "It does not so much matter to the Canterbury or Otago sheep 
 farmer, or the grazier in the North Island, for when once a farm, in the 
 Waikato district, for instance, is properly fenced and sown down with 
 grass, the labour connected with it is trifling. A little ploughing here 
 and there, as the plant of clover begins to fail, the sowing of a field of 
 turnips, as extra feed in the winter, and the branding of the cattle, 
 which, in a properly-made stock-yard, is not a very difficult matter, is 
 almost all the labour that is required. One or two hired men, besides 
 the master, who must expect to do some work himself, will be sufficient 
 for a i,ooo-acre grazing farm, where there is no housing of cattle in 
 winter, or feeding with artificial food. 
 
 " Sheep, too, in the runs especially, require very little looking after, 
 and a couple of men will be ample for a run of many thousand sheep, 
 - except at the mustering and clipping seasons. 
 
 "But, after all, the question still remains unanswered: Is New 
 Zealand a good field of emigration for British tenant-farmers ? Will they 
 be able to use there, to advantage, the capital that remains to them after 
 the hard times through which we have been passing, and will they be 
 able there to establish the home which an Englishman, in whatever 
 part of the world he lives, wishes to possess ? We answer ' yes ' to all 
 these. We believe that any English farmer, of industry and persever- 
 ance, possessing a little capital, and a good knowledge of his business, 
 may make a very good living for himself and his family, and will have 
 better opportunities of settling his children than he would in a country 
 like ours, which, after centuries of occupation, is crowded in every corner 
 with members of every trade, profession, and calling. 
 
 " We wish to be understood : he must not think that by going to New 
 Zealand he is stepping into a fortune j steadiness and industry are neces- 
 
60 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 sary elements of success there as here, but are more sure of their reward. 
 To have made the fortunes and amassed the large landed estates which 
 he will see around him, he should have been there years ago, when the 
 swamps were undrained and the roads unmade, when he must have 
 crossed every torrent that flows from the Southern Alps at the risk of 
 being swept away, or slept at night in fear of having his throat cut by 
 the Maories before morning. These dangers are practically gone now : 
 every river is not bridged, but many are ; the natives, where they exist 
 in any numbers in districts settled by Englishmen, are rather useful than 
 otherwise. 
 
 " It is a mistake, into which people at home not uncommonly fall, to 
 think that New Zealand is all alike, and that it does not much matter 
 to what part they direct their steps, as the same sort of country and 
 occupation will meet them at all places. From what we have said it 
 will be seen that this is altogether a wrong idea. There are in the 
 colony greater varieties of soil, of climate, and of agricultural occupa- 
 tions, if we may so term them, than it would be easy to find in any other 
 country of the same size. 
 
 " It depends altogether upon what sort of farming a man prefers ; and 
 he can have his choice of almost any kind*, If a warm climate with mild 
 winters suits him, and he wishes to devote himself to cattle and sheep 
 breeding, this can be done to perfection in the Waikato district of the 
 North Island and the Thames Valley, and we thoroughly believe that it 
 is a profitable field of labour. It is a good place for a man of capital 
 who wishes to acquire a large freehold at a comparatively low price, and 
 when once the stock is bought and the farm got into cultivation, it can 
 be worked at a low cost, owing to the small amount of care and atten- 
 tion required by live stock in that favoured climate. On the other hand, 
 a man of small capital, desirous of carrying on his farm by the united 
 labour of himself and his family only, should do very well in the same 
 district for the same reasons. And one enormous advantage the free- 
 holder in a new colony possesses is this : that year by year, while he 
 plods along making his yearly returns, his land is silently but steadily 
 increasing in value by the progress of settlement around and beyond 
 him, and the regular growth of the colony ; and in this way, even if not 
 
Letters from Abroad. 61 
 
 by annual returns from his stock and farming operations, he is certain to 
 add to his wealth, as hundreds of settlers in New Zealand have done 
 before. 
 
 " The following extracts from a little work called Farming in North 
 New Zealand, by the Rev. J. Berry, are interesting as corroborating 
 what we have advanced : 
 
 " 'During a twelve years' residence I have never seen ice there which would bear a 
 child, nor snow three inches deep, except on the mountains. Deep snow and ice thick 
 enough for skating may be found in the extreme south, but not often, and no settler 
 need go there who is anxious to avoid these. Sheep and cattle and horses live and 
 prosper in the open air all the year round. The days are very few, even in winter, in 
 which a delicate person may not enjoy a walk or ride in the open air. 
 
 " ' New Zealand has no rainy season in the sense in which the words are commonly 
 used. Of course, in the absence of snow and hail and severe frost, the chief charac- 
 teristic of the winter is rain ; hence some imagine that it rains much and often, but 
 this is a mistake winter days are generally clear and bright, and sufficiently cold to 
 render them bracing. Fogs are unknown here. An Englishman on first landing dis- 
 covers to his surprise that he cannot well judge of distance ; his eye needs to be 
 educated, the air is so clear that he imagines distant objects to be close at hand. In 
 the North Island many flowers bloom all winter in |the open air. A cottager there 
 may often gather a more beautiful winter bouquet in his garden than many an English 
 gentleman from his greenhouse. I had a hedge of choice geraniums round my garden 
 the last year I was in New Zealand, and they flowered all winter. All English fruits 
 flourish in New Zealand, and many rare and choice fruits are found there in great 
 profusion. Two ripe crops of figs are often gathered in the same year, apricots, 
 peaches, and grapes can be secured in abundance with little trouble. Hops grow 
 well in the North Island. Oranges, lemons, and similar fruits grow and ripen in 
 sunny spots, and with care, tobacco can be cultivated ; but as yet labour is too 
 scarce and dear in New Zealand to admit of extensive cultivation of tobacco or manu- 
 facture of wine. All the materials are there, in fact, for scores of profitable industries, 
 lying undeveloped for want of people. 
 
 " 'New Zealand is probably the healthiest country in the world. Its death-rate is 
 about 12 per thousand little more than half that of England ; while its birth-rate is 
 considerably larger. If it be answered that this is accounted for by the fact that only 
 young people go there, the matter can be tested in another way. Dr. Thompson, who 
 spent some years in New Zealand, and who wrote the very valuable work called 
 The Story of New Zealand, tested the climate by comparing the health-tables of 
 British troops in various parts of the world. No test could be fairer. He found that 
 the death-rate per year per thousand was as follows : Canada, 20 ; Malta, 18 ; Cape 
 of Good Hope, 15 ; England, 14 ; New Zealand, 8. The deaths per thousand of 
 consumption he found to be England, 8 ; Canada, 6 ; New Zealand, 2. 
 
 " ' On looking over the numerous colonies of the great and glorious Albion, and com- 
 paring them with New Zealand, it is at once evident that, of all the Colonial pro- 
 vinces of the British Crown, New Zealand bears the most resemblance to the mother 
 
62 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 country by virtue of its insular position, its climate, its soil, and the whole form and 
 structure of the country. Blessed with a genial oceanic climate, so admirably suited 
 to the Anglo-Saxon race, with a fertile soil, well watered and specially adapted to 
 agriculture and farming; it is the country without dangerous animals, without 
 poisonous plants, but rich in mineral treasures ; a country where horses, cattle, and 
 sheep thrive, where fruit, grain, and potatoes grow most abundantly ; a country 
 adorned with all the charms and beauties of grand natural scenery ; a country which 
 would easily support a population of twelve millions, and which promises the bold 
 and persevering emigrant a lucrative and brilliant future. Such a country appears to 
 be destined before all others to become the mother of all civilised nations.' 
 
 "A few hints, taken from the same source as the foregoing, as to the 
 mode of procedure to be adopted by a new comer in New Zealand, will 
 doubtless prove interesting here : 
 
 " ' Having selected his land, his first care is to build some sort of a house, which 
 may be of logs or sawn timber. Sometimes the first erection is a " lean-to," the back 
 part only of that which will one day be a permanent residence. If the new settler is 
 a small capitalist, anxious to acquire a freehold property, he manages with very 
 little furniture. A few stools, a deal table, a shakedown with blankets, and about 
 .5 worth of crockery and cooking utensils, and the furnishing is, for the present, 
 complete. Let it be noted here that life under such conditions, which would be 
 unbearable in a climate like that'of England, may be pleasant enough as a makeshift 
 in a warm climate, where no one thinks it a hardship, and where it is accepted as on 
 the high road to independence, and perhaps wealth. It is rarely wise to build and 
 furnish a substantial house until this can be done from profits of the farm. To build 
 the house and secure the first field of grass, fenced in, occupies the first year, and, 
 when this is done, the preliminary troubles of a settler are over. His horses cost 
 nothing to feed ; he has dairy produce for his family and a few young stock. 
 
 " ' No time should be lost in laying off land for garden and orchard and planting 
 ornamental trees. Any labour spent in this way will be richly remunerative. This 
 virgin soil, without manure, will readily yield from five to 'ten tons of potatoes. 
 Carrots, weighing 8 Ibs. to 10 Ibs. each are very common, and other vegetables grow 
 in proportion. Nothing will astonish the new arrival more than the rapid growth of 
 trees and shrubs. I have seen pines 70 feet high and 1 1 feet in girth which have 
 been planted within my recollection of New Zealand, i.e., within fourteen years. 
 Gum-trees can be grown from seed high enough for shelter in four or five years. 
 Three years are enough to bring fruit-trees into good bearing. I saw on an estate 
 lately, which four years ago was a dense swamp, an orchard with apple, peach, 
 plum, cherry, and other trees in full bearing, and with grapes and raspberries, straw- 
 berries, &c., in almost bewildering profusion. From the same orchard the owner 
 sold last year > 100 worth of young trees raised from seed, besides planting out many 
 thousands for his own use. Where trees grow so rapidly, there is a charm about 
 planting unknown elsewhere, especially when planting on your own soil. This 
 rapid growth is the effect of a warm, genial climate, where growth continues nearly 
 the whole year round. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 63 
 
 " ' Having secured the first field, with the beginnings of garden and orchard, it now 
 remains for the settler to bring the whole of his land into grass on farms where it is 
 not already so, increasittg his stock with his pastures. The next step will be to turn 
 up his oldest grass-land and begin a rotation of crops. Fern-land will not generally 
 give a good crop of corn until it has been long enough in grass to have become clear 
 of the fern root and fibre ; but it will yield very heavy root crops from the first. 
 Comparatively few of the farmers in North New Zealand grow any crops for sale, 
 preferring to confine themselves to grazing, which involves but little labour and pays 
 well, bringing in a return of from 2 to 3 per acre per year; but I am satisfied that 
 the English method of farming will pay best in the end, and that the plough must be 
 kept going if justice is to be done to the soil.' 
 
 "To encourage dairy farming in New Zealand, and to afford infor- 
 mation to farmers in the outlying districts, the Government of New 
 Zealand have appointed a gentleman of large experience in dairy 
 farming in England to be Inspector of Dairies in the Colony, and 
 Mr. William Bowron, who holds this appointment, in his valuable 
 little work on the manufacture of cheese and^ butter in New Zealand, 
 writes as follows: 
 
 " ' A gentleman in America reports the average yield of his cows at 680 gallons per 
 annum. From that quantity of milk he produced 6 cwt. of cheese. I may remark 
 that in England and America they can calculate upon grass for six months only; 
 here in New Zealand we calculate upon grass for eight or nine months. My impres- 
 sion is that your cows during forty weeks will average not less than two gallons per 
 day. I have stated this frequently in public meetings, and have been told that my 
 estimate is below the mark. Two gallons per day is 560 per annum. Well, place 
 the figures at 560, that quantity, at 4d. per gallon, will give the fanner, say, g for 
 each cow.' 
 
 "'To say what New Zealand is capable of producing is impossible. Two acres and 
 a-half will sustain a cow summer and winter; two and a-half million acres will keep 
 one million cows; the produce of each cow would not be less than 5 cwt. of cheese, 
 valued at 6Ad., or 60 per ton, would produce a revenue of fifteen millions per 
 annum, leaving out of our calculation the calf and also the pig which invariably goes 
 with the cow. 
 
 ' ' Gold mines are good in their place, but at best uncertain, and are soon exhausted ; 
 but the green sward, when properly treated, never. Every spear of grass, from 
 generation to generation, is tipped with gold for people who know how to utilise and 
 extract it.' 
 
 " * For the information of all who may forward cheese to London, I may say that 
 November, December, and January are the months when cheese is little sought 
 after, and forced sales never pay. April, May, and June are the best months ; the 
 previous year's stock is all used up, and the cheese merchants are glad to take the 
 first which comes to market. This fact presents a fine opportunity for New Zealand, 
 as you will be able to send in thousands of tons of fine ripe cheese, just at the time 
 
64 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 when you will have no competitor. This I consider to be a point in favour of New 
 Zealand. The same applies to frozen meat avoid November and December. Ship- 
 loads of poultry, game, and rabbits come in from distant parts, depressing the meat 
 market. There are also other causes which affect the meat market. Winter is 
 setting in, trade is dull, and the large flock masters are killing off their draft ewes; all 
 are sent to London, and the prices are unsatisfactory. Stretching over forty-five 
 years, I never knew the market other than I have just stated. Butter realises the 
 highest price in February and March; bacon in May, June, July, and August.' 
 
 "Cheese and butter factories have been established in the Colony 
 with success. We insert an extract from the New Zealand Herald, of 
 29th April last. The Waikato correspondent of that paper (the leading 
 journal of the North Island) writes as follows : 
 
 " ' Mr. Bowron, the Government Inspector of Cheese Factories, who leaves here 
 to-morrow, takes down with him to Auckland a specimen cheese from each of the 
 four local factories for testing and examination there. During his."recent visit to 
 Waikato, Mr. Bowron has visited each of the factories, and has expressed himself 
 highly gratified with the successful manner in which the cheese factory movement 
 has been firmly established in this district. Mr. Bowron recommends that the cheese 
 should always, if possible, be shipped so as to reach home from February to May, 
 that being the season of the year at which best prices will be secured. To the 
 Rukuhia factory (that carried on in the old grand stand on the Ohaupo racecourse) 
 Mr. Bowron gives the palm for superiority of quality. The cheeses are, however, 
 small in size, which for the home market would be a disqualification, cheese of 90 
 Ibs. weight being the favourite size. At Paterangi, Mr. Bowron was much pleased 
 with the richness and quality of the cheese, particularly the " Cheddar," which he 
 estimated would be worth in England from 705. to 8os. per cwt. As a proof of the 
 success of the Waikato Cheese Factory, it may be stated that though they have given 
 4d. per gallon for milk, a halfpenny more than the other factories, they will be able 
 to declare a dividend of 8 per cent, for the season on the paid-up capital of the 
 company.' 
 
 "The object of this pamphlet is to bring before the English public 
 a few prominent facts connected with the colony of New Zealand, 
 which render it so pre-eminently a desirable home for the English 
 farmer, and an attractive place of residence for those who require a 
 good climate. The Auckland Agricultural Company, Limited, have 
 for sale in the Auckland district about 350,000 acres of good land, and 
 they are about to subdivide and offer these lands for sale in England. 
 The Estates are situated in the Waikato and Thames districts, and are 
 within easy reach of the City of Auckland, from which they are distant 
 about 70 to 100 miles by rail. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 "Some portions of the land, in an unimproved condition, can be had 
 at i, i os. per acre, and land sown with English grasses at from .3 to 
 6 per acre, according to position and state of cultivation. 
 
 " The Company will sell the land in large or small selections on 
 terms of deferred payment, such as will suit any one, charging low 
 rates of interest for two, three, or four years, and where it shall be 
 proved to them that the purchaser has a sufficiency of capital to erect 
 the necessary buildings and stock the land, the ordinary deposit will be 
 dispensed with. In certain special cases also the Company will be 
 prepared to let land on lease, with the option of purchase, but in these 
 cases there will of course be restrictions as to cropping. 
 
 "The grazing lands of which these estates principally consist are 
 well adapted for carrying both cattle and sheep. 
 
 " The unimproved and fern-lands, if simply burnt off, and grass-seed 
 sown broadcast on the ashes, will very quickly make a fair pasture, but 
 after the land has been under the plough, cultivated, and sown in the 
 ordinary way with English grasses, a fine rich pasture with a good 
 bottom can be obtained in two years. 
 
 " One of the most suitable styles of cropping for the arable lands on 
 the estates has been found to be three years grass, one crop of corn, 
 then one of turnips and back to grass again. Another good system is 
 to have, say, one-third of the farm in pasture, one-third under the 
 plough and the remainder under crop; root crops can be grown on 
 these properties to great advantage. It has also been found that beet 
 and tobacco can be grown in the North Island with much success. 
 
 " The Company's objects in selling may be summed up very shortly: 
 The lands were bought years ago with a view to the cultivation and 
 subsequent sale of same, very large amounts have been expended in 
 improvements, drainage, &c., and the Directors are now of opinion 
 that the estates are in a sufficiently forward condition to be put before 
 the public for sale, the original intention being naturally that the Com- 
 pany should eventually make a profit out of their operations. The 
 local demand for land in New Zealand, because of the smallness of the 
 population, is not sufficient to absorb all the land now offered for sale, 
 and it is thought that many English farmers will be glad to avail them- 
 
 5 
 
66 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 selves of this opportunity for procuring a good homestead on easy 
 terms. 
 
 " It is intended by the Proprietors to give full value to purchasers of 
 their lands, it being their aim to so satisfy the latter that they may be 
 in a position to recommend their friends to come and do likewise, and 
 for this reason it has been decided to accept lower prices for these pro- 
 perties than was ever before contemplated, the Company looking to the 
 increased value of the remaining portions of their estates, consequent 
 upon the sale of and settlement upon the lots sold, to compensate them 
 for the reduced prices at which they will offer these lands. 
 
 " The following additional information may be useful: 
 
 " HOUSES. The cost of erecting a four- roomed house suitable for a 
 small family with verandah is about ^150. A six-roomed house 
 will cost about ^250, and so on in proportion. 
 
 " FENCING. An ordinary six- wire fencing with wood posts will cost 
 from I2s. to 1 6s. per chain according to the situation and facilities for 
 obtaining timber. The barbed wire fencing will cost about 2s. 6d. per 
 chain extra. 
 
 " SHEEP may be purchased at from 53. to I2s. each, according to 
 breed, &c., and their wool may be calculated to realise about 55. each 
 per annum; besides which there is the already rapidly growing frozen 
 meat trade which bids fair to do so much for New Zealand by relieving 
 it of the surplus stocks of sheep, and by giving an immense impetus to 
 the general prosperity of the Colony, and thereby materially increasing 
 the value of all lands suitable for sheep runs. 
 
 " No work, whatever its size, dealing with New Zealand, would be 
 complete without a more definite reference to this subject of Frozen 
 Mutton, the export of which has now become one of the established 
 industries of the country, and is of vital importance to its future welfare. 
 
 " In the South Island, where refrigerating chambers and stores are 
 already in working order, the consequent reduction in the quantity of 
 sheep has even now commenced to have its effect upon the value of 
 same, and to increase the cost of land. In the North things are not in 
 such a forward state ; but efficient machinery is in course of erection, 
 and erelong the power of this Island to also take its legitimate share in 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 the export of frozen meat must have a similar effect upon both stock 
 and land an effect in which those now purchasing properties such as 
 we are offering must participate. At present there have been difficulties 
 in the way of the shipment of beef in a frozen condition; but there can 
 be no doubt that a means of overcoming these will shortly be found 
 which will again and still further enhance the value of property in New 
 Zealand. 
 
 " The following figures will prove of interest in this connection, and 
 will show the paramount importance of this trade to the Colony. The 
 quantities of New Zealand meat received in England were as under : 
 
 
 Carcases of 
 Mutton. 
 
 Quarters of 
 Beef. 
 
 Number of 
 Shipments. 
 
 1882, . . . 
 
 8,839 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 1883, . . . 
 
 120,893 
 
 728 
 
 15 
 
 " And it is already evident that the shipments for this year will reach 
 300,000 carcases. 
 
 "A competent authority on this matter has lately stated it as his 
 opinion that New Zealand is at present capable of exporting from 
 400,000 to 500,000 carcases per annum, and that this quantity can 
 easily be increased to a million within the next few years. 
 
 " CATTLE are obtainable as follows: Milch cows at from $ to 7 
 each; on some occasions, owing to depression in the markets, they may 
 even be purchased for less money. Yearling beasts can be had at 
 from 255. to 455. each, and two-year old beasts from 505. to gos. 
 
 " HORSES. Good useful horses may be bought at from 10 to ^15 
 each; and superior cart horses range from 20 to ^30. 
 
 " Intending emigrants must give up the old idea that New Zealand is 
 a long way off. In point of fact it is now only divided from England 
 by a six weeks' voyage, owing to the direct lines of steamers which are 
 now running between the two countries, and of which there are at 
 least two per month. The steamers of the New Zealand Shipping 
 
68 Letters from A broad. 
 
 Company, Limited, load in the Royal Albert Dock (Gallion's Station), 
 London, and the rates of passage-money to Auckland are as follows : 
 
 Each adult. 
 
 First class (saloon cabins), 60 to 70 gns. 
 
 Second class, 35 to 40 ,, 
 
 Third class (closed cabins with a berths) for married couples, . . 22 , , 
 
 ( 4 ), 20 
 
 (open berths, for men only), 18 
 
 Children under 12 years of age, travelling with their parents, half-price. Infants 
 under 12 months, free. In the case of large families or parties coming from the same 
 place and going in the same steamer, the Auckland Agricultural Company, Limited, 
 can probably arrange to get a concession on these rates. 
 
 " Half the amount of passage-money is required to be paid on 
 securing the passage, and the balance three days prior to the steamer 
 leaving the docks. 
 
 " The following quantities of personal baggage not merchandise or 
 furniture will be taken for each adult, free of charge, viz. : Saloon, 
 40 cubic feet; second class, 20 cubic feet; third class, 15 cubic feet; 
 any additional quantity will be charged for at the current rate. 
 
 " Packages for the cabin should not exceed 2 feet 6 inches long, 
 I foot 6 inches broad, and I foot 2 inches high. 
 
 "For those preferring the greater length of a voyage per sailing- 
 vessel the rates are as follows : 
 
 Saloon cabin 43 guineas, with the use of bedding and cabin fittings. 
 
 35 without ,, 
 
 Second cabin 20 
 
 Third 15 (enclosed berths). 
 Steerage 13 (open berths). 
 
 " The other regulations are as given above, but the sailing-vessels 
 load in South West India and East India Docks here. 
 
 " As there are so many steamers leaving now, very few of the sailing- 
 vessels take any but saloon and second-class passengers. 
 
 " Persons taking out money with them are advised to deposit the 
 same with the Bank of New Zealand, I Queen Victoria Street, London, 
 
Letters from A broad. 69 
 
 where they will get a draft, payable on demand in Auckland, for the 
 sum so deposited. 
 
 " Mr. Samuel Grant, who went out to New Zealand some years back 
 in conjunction with Mr. Forster as delegate from the Lincolnshire 
 farmers, has just left by the steamer Ionic for Auckland with the view 
 of inspecting the Company's properties, and on his return here^inr" 
 November next will be prepared to offer the same in lots suitable for 
 persons with either large or small amounts of capital, and he will be in 
 a position to impart full information of every kind with regard to such 
 lands to intending emigrants and purchasers. 
 
 " In the foregoing it has been the endeavour to give information 
 likely to be of service to those desirous of settling in New Zealand, and 
 when comparison is made with other parts of the world to which 
 emigration is from time to time directed, we think we may consider it 
 proved that New Zealand offers the best field for those who wish to 
 make new homes outside the mother country. 
 
 "LONDON, 26th June, 1884." 
 
 MILFORD SOUND. 
 
 Quietly, and very slowly, we glided onward, passing the 
 Mitre, snow-clad and grim, in the early dawn (4.15), while 
 right ahead the cold white face of Mount Kimberley, dotted 
 here and there with patches of bush, passing slowly by the 
 Stirling Falls, some 400 feet in height, falling into the basin 
 a simple mass of foam. Some of the lower mountains are 
 covered with green scrub to the water's edge. Nearly every 
 mountain went sheer down into the deep blue water, so 
 deep that anchorage is out of the question. In ten minutes 
 we were quite surrounded by gigantic heights, and no outlet 
 visible, Glaciers and snow fields of dazzling white rose 
 
7O Letters from Abroad. 
 
 from the wooded valleys, The basin or inner harbour is, 
 I think, ten miles in circumference. The Bowen Fall is 
 more than three times the height of Niagara, but the 
 volume of water is small, and looks more like huge fans of 
 spray. Hundreds of silver-like water-threads find their way 
 to the lake. We landed in glorious sunlight, and for some 
 hours employed our time in forcing a way into the tangled 
 New Zealand bush. Huge tree ferns, red gum, supple 
 jack, and a carpet of the most varied ferns and mosses 
 possible to imagine, crowded together in wild profusion. 
 This place has never been properly prospected. The only 
 habitation is one hut, shared by an artist, a photographer, 
 and a new arrival in the shape of a prospector. Of course, 
 none will remain over a couple of months. Wild red 
 honeysuckle, many varieties of veronica, and other gay 
 flowers studded the green woods with colour. My photo- 
 graphs will give some idea of this beautiful spot. The 
 sand-fly is very troublesome. Early Monday found us at the 
 Bluff, thence by rail to Invercargill, 18 miles (Prince of 
 Wales or Albion Hotel), a fairly large town' with wonder- 
 fully wide streets and fine stone buildings. 
 
 LAKE WAKATIPU (OR STILL WATERS). 
 
 Next morning, 6.45, found us en route for Kingston, 
 the head of Lake Wakatipu (leave out the u in pro- 
 nouncing), after a slow journey of seven hours through 
 long dreary flats, for the most part inhabited by rabbits. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 71 
 
 Jn fact, we passed one station where the owner keeps be- 
 tween seventy or eighty hands constantly employed in doing 
 nothing else but exterminating this great pest. The very 
 last half-year they killed over 350,000 head (mostly 
 by medicated grain), the total cost for the six months being 
 ;i,5oo, and the net return for sale of skins, &c., was only 
 ^780. Many farms that ten 'years ago were of great value 
 are now practically useless, for sheep will not feed after 
 these prolific little rodents. Until one sees and hears of 
 the terrible destruction they cause, the foregoing figures 
 seem quite impossible. Even the large hawk of the 
 country is never shot; they may be seen in numbers 
 wheeling over their furry prey. 
 
 After a grand sunny trip down the lake, surrounded by 
 bold, bare mountains varying from 3,000 to 7,000 feet in 
 height many of the peaks covered in snow we sighted the 
 pretty little township of Queenstown lying at an angle of 
 the lake. The weather all day had been simply perfect a 
 golden sunset left behind a peculiar shade of pink, shaded 
 into palest gray. The place was full, owing to the Governor 
 of New Zealand (Sir W. Jervois) being present. Our bed- 
 room was a model for a barrack four beds, four bare walls, 
 and two of the most comical jugs I ever beheld. These 
 jugs were originally made of ware, but age or disaster had 
 gradually removed spouts, handles, and standing apparatus. 
 These mishaps had been from time to time renewed by the 
 local tinman, and what with a bandage of tin in one part, a 
 spout of zinc in another, tin handles, and tin bottoms, they 
 
72 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 had indeed become china warriors; it is unnecessary to add 
 that they leaked, and in the endeavour to pour water into 
 the basin you generally found this useful fluid over your 
 
 legs or boots. L was anxious to answer telegrams 
 
 and letters, so St. John and I determined to do Ben 
 Lomond. We started in company with Miss Godfrey, and 
 a gallon of water, for the top. It was a cloudless summer 
 day, very hot, not a breath of air. (All the foregoing has 
 been written in great haste, and at a ricketty table, in order 
 to catch mail, so please correct.) The first two hours of 
 the ascent was a gradual rise of 3,000 feet over a rough 
 stoney track, fairly trying to the feet, and occasionally when 
 a wild Irishman put his long thorns into your homespun, 
 trying to the temper also, hundreds of lizards glided away 
 at our approach, and the ubiquitous rabbit scuttled into 
 the scrub. Arrived at the Saddle, a grand panorama met 
 the eye. Having very little time, we pushed on for the 
 real work of the day, and with no path or guide we 
 scrambled for two hours up the sides of this rugged old 
 fellow (about 6,000), and finally rested on the second 
 pinnacle from the top. Our lady was a splendid climber, 
 and the way she pulled herself over boulders, tugged herself 
 up by tussocks of snow-grass, was really wonderful. Time 
 would not admit of our reaching the summit, as the boat 
 for Kinlock-head started at five. This was hard, for another 
 half an hour would have seen us there. After a rest, and a 
 long, quiet look at the exquisite circle of snow-tipped peaks, 
 embracing among others the Remarkables, and in the 
 
Letters from Abroad. 73 
 
 distance the bold white summit of Mount Earnslaw, we 
 commenced the toe-breaking descent. I could not help 
 admiring the sensible boots our little Sydney lady wore, and 
 found to my surprise that she had just returned from 
 England, and the said boots were made under her directions 
 by a regular country shoemaker at Lynton (Devonshire). 
 We scrambled back at our best pace, arrived at the hotel 
 at 4.30, after seven and a-half hours' really trying walking, 
 owing to the heat, but the half-hour's rest, with the view, 
 well repaid the exertion. 
 
 EICHART'S HOTEL, QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 The summer evening's steam to Kinlock was particularly 
 pleasant after our climb, and the grand scenery, with only 
 here and there a saw-mill, gave an idea of solitude I have 
 never experienced before all quiet, except the skitter made 
 by a brood of young ducks, or the flop of a huge trout as 
 he engulphed some unwary grasshopper. Everything was 
 so still that nature repeated itself in the dark blue water. 
 In two hours Mount Earnslaw (9,000 feet) seemed to block 
 the head of the lake. We were greeted at the little wooden 
 pier by Mr. Bryant, who, with the help of his daughters, 
 soon divided our party, and put us into three little wooden 
 houses. My room was about the size of an ordinary 
 dining-table the bed, stuffed with snow-grass, and a first- 
 cousin jug to that at Queenstown completed the furniture. 
 We all supped together in a large wooden room, with a 
 
74 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 bright wood fire. Our fare consisted of a goose and 
 rhubarb-pudding this being partaken of at 9.30 necessitated 
 a prolonged smoke, and as we looked over the primitive 
 visitors' book we came across the names of 
 
 CHAS. JOHN TRIPP. \ 
 
 ELLEN S. TRIPP. Cousins 
 
 C. M. HOWARD TRIPP. 1 
 
 > of Friends at 
 
 J- M. TT 
 
 T-, Home. 
 
 * 
 
 EDITH / 
 
 When I tell you Kingston consists of three houses, and 
 Kinlock-head of four, you may guess how grand the 
 solitude. What I like is the primitive kindness of our 
 hosts. I can assure you we gladly miss the English waiters 
 crowding for the departing tip. We were up at five, and 
 arrived at Invercargill at eight very tired, and done up. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 A LONG dreary ride from Invercargill to Dunedin. Both 
 glad of a rest at Waine's Hotel, although, on a second visit, 
 I should make The Grand my head-quarters. Being up at 
 the Fernhill Club, we strolled round and found it a capital 
 building, with a fine view and every comfort, the grounds 
 being especially good. Dunedin (the Gaelic for Edinburgh) 
 
Letters from Abroad. 75 
 
 is a very handsome city of 40,000, principally Scotch. The 
 buildings are now for the most part of stone, and high-class 
 in point of architecture. Many of the private residences 
 are built on the numerous surrounding hills, some reached by 
 a wire-rope tramway fast, safe, noiseless, and inexpensive. 
 Dunedin must have a prosperous future. A farewell dinner 
 
 with Mrs. B at the Grand, and Monday found us in the 
 
 eight o'clock train for Christchurch, arriving after a weary 
 journey of 12 hours; distance 230 miles, with no less than 75 
 stations en route. We passed over one bridge more than a 
 mile long, the snow-water dividing the pebbly river-bed into 
 numerous channels. Christchurch is the capital of the 
 South, or rather Middle Island, and boasts a large cathedral, 
 university, museum, banks, &c., all of fine stone, and a 
 population of about 30,000. I met a gentleman at the C.C. 
 Club who farmed 40,000 acres, and in one field alone he 
 grew 2,900 acres of turnips. The Canterbury Plains are cele- 
 brated for rich soil and splendid breed of sheep, the best cross 
 being Lincoln and Merino. I saw the wool from one animal 
 just shorn, weighing in the grease 24 Ibs.; animal weighed 
 no Ibs., and produced 40 Ibs. of fat (or tallow), the growth 
 of fleece being n months 14 days. The same squatter has 
 one favourite field, producing last year 106 bushels to acre 
 of wheat, and his general average is 60 to 70. The station 
 farmers here are taken from some of the best blood in 
 England. They are fine-looking, well-educated, and won- 
 derfully well-read men, and most anxious to do everything 
 for strangers. The Domain, or public park, is beautifully 
 
76 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 laid out ; the river Avon winds slowly through the town. 
 We stayed at the club, but Coker's Hotel is a useful place. 
 We saw the skeleton of the celebrated wingless Moa bird, 14 
 feet in height (Dinornis maximus). The egg is larger than 
 a man's skull. The kea is another native bird. This lively 
 epicure fastens its long claws into the wool of the sheep, and 
 the poor beast cannot shake him off. He eventually kills 
 the sheep by driving a hole into the kidney, and that dainty 
 bit is the only part he will touch. Christchurch and district 
 has a real British look, and very little imagination would make 
 you think yourself in England. The native woods are suitable 
 for all kinds of work, but especially adapted for the cabinet- 
 maker, and furniture veneers are very beautiful in texture and 
 colour. The quantity and variety is simply incredible. The 
 green Maori stone is about the only curio of these islands. The 
 living is plain and good beef and mutton from 4d. to 6d., 
 excellent in quality and flavour ; bread, cheese, and butter 
 equal to any I know. Fish is scarce, but the celebrated 
 frost fish is supposed to be an epicure's dish. The building 
 stones are varied, striking in appearance, and easily worked. 
 Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, is a land-locked harbour, 
 and the steamers of the New Zealand Shipping Company 
 start from here. The Aorangi is a fine specimen of what an 
 ocean-going steamer should be; in this age of cheap and 
 universal travelling, each new steamer becomes an object of 
 interest. The number of horses, and especially idle horses, 
 is very noticeable ; ^20 will purchase a good animal, well- 
 bred, fast, and sound. The wheat fields are usually from 50 
 
Letters from Abroad. 77 
 
 to 200 acres, free from the pretty but noxious charlick. 
 The hedges are nearly all gorse. The real Colonial is not a 
 drinking man ; it is the " new chum " or broken-down " old 
 chum" who does the rowdy. For my part, I can hardly 
 conceive a grander life than that of a pioneer in such a fine 
 country as this. The man must throw up English ties 
 friends and the luxuries of an old civilisation to reclaim by 
 hard and incessant work the soil now given over to nature's 
 gorgeous undergrowth, substituting for forest and plains of 
 flax or nodding snow-grass the clover and more nutritious 
 grasses of Europe. These hardy settlers reduce by their 
 energy the cost of food, enabling the struggling masses in 
 our densely-populated towns to live better and cheaper. 
 The life is not a bed of roses, but it is a manly, healthy, 
 contented life, and self-denial must be the motto for any 
 successful man. What a real satisfaction it must be for a 
 young fellow to see 50 sheep where one could only feed 
 before. We went over a meat-freezing establishment, the 
 Aorangi taking no less than 12,000 carcases of sheep in 
 beautiful condition. The willow-trees here form a perfect 
 cascade of waving green, sweeping the ground or water, 
 having a most graceful look. Now for a very faint idea of 
 our western drive from Christchurch on the east to Hokitiki 
 on the west. 
 
 THE WESTERN DRIVE, OR OTIRA GORGE. 
 We left Christchurch and civilisation by the afternoon 
 train; our little locomotive brought our party of six very slowly 
 
78 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 over a perfectly level landscape for 50 miles, with few 
 charms except to the observant eye; but, when one sees 
 nearly every field studded with sheep, horses, cattle, or 
 nearly ripe corn, and then realises the fact, that 30 
 or 40 years ago the whole place was a howling wilder- 
 ness, he can then feel proud of being an Englishman. 
 For nearly four hours the little train jogged along at 
 a snail's pace, stopping at small wooden stations (with 
 seemingly no roads to or from anywhere), and then 
 "toddled" on again and finally landed us at Springfield, 
 a terminus at the base of blue-looking hills. To all 
 appearances Springfield consists of about three houses 
 and outbuildings, but doubtless, some half-dozen miles 
 away, you might come across a home station or wooden 
 shanty if diligently looked for. We had to carry our 
 baggage, &c., to Cassiday's Hotel; and soon made ourselves 
 very comfortable in a small room with a big fire. Our 
 
 party consisted of Mrs. and Miss G , Rev. Dr. D , 
 
 and our three selves. Cassiday, the proprietor, a driver for 
 many years of the mail-coach (and now a small station- 
 master and horse-jobber), beguiled the time by telling 
 some wonderful escapes and accidents over this road, 
 subject as it is to avalanches of stone after rain many 
 portions of the road slide clean away; these little tales 
 were hardly reassuring, for this year the New Zealand 
 rain-fall was much heavier than has been known for years. 
 The pass was blocked two days ago, and one of the 
 coaches overturned in a ford, nobody killed, but many 
 
Letters from Abroad. 79 
 
 of the mail-bags were lost. Very nice! This Western 
 Road is said by men who have done America, Switzerland, 
 and Norway, to be the finest drive in the world; and now 
 that I have seen it, I can safely say it is most beautiful, 
 and scarey to better heads than mine. I have read no 
 description of this wonderful place, purposely to put down 
 my own impressions; it is not so giddy as I expected, 
 but for beauty and marvellous solitude, it is beyond any- 
 thing I have ever dreamt of. 
 
 Were I an able man, I might place before you this 
 Western Road; but it, like the writing, is full of irregularities 
 and surprises. We got into our coach, and my first im- 
 pression was rather a doubt as to its strength; but time 
 proved it a splendid machine for the work. The team con- 
 sisted of five strong useful animals, and our driver, "Maher," 
 a capital whip. We were soon seated, rugs settled, and 
 the small amount of baggage stowed. The driver gave 
 one ringing crack of his long kangaroo skin whip, and 
 away we went at a brisk trot. In less than a quarter of 
 an hour we forded our first river, and although in no 
 real danger whatever, the first sensation of being bumped 
 over boulders of various sizes, from a lump as big as a 
 bucket, to the small pebble, the horses splashing and 
 slipping, but never really stumbling, was, to say the least 
 
 of it, a novelty; young L and I had the back seat, 
 
 and unless we had held on, nothing on earth would have 
 prevented our being jerked into the water. The ascent of 
 Porter's Pass is tedious, and rather nasty looking; the 
 
8o Letters from Abroad. 
 
 saddle, 3,240 feet, is anything but a comfortable place to 
 look over, gradient i in 10. The view from the saddle 
 is striking and wild, rather than beautiful, bare mountains 
 and jagged peaks extending as far as the eye could reach, all 
 still no life whatever. On and on, leaving behind big masses 
 of mountain, rich in every shade, from the deepest slate 
 to the softest gray, patched with pale carmine; their snowy 
 peaks glistening in the sunlight the air pure, clear and 
 bracing; trotting on between valleys of rocks encamped 
 on the hill-sides like ruined cities or druid remains. About 
 mid-day, we pulled up at the little "Accommodation House" 
 of Craig-y-Burn; here the black birch relieves the somewhat 
 monotonous landscape. A short distance from Craig-y- 
 Burn, a very curious subsidence had recently taken place 
 sinking in the form of huge batteries, rising tier above tier, 
 and giving one the idea of some continental city's out- 
 works. Just before arriving at the Bealey, another striking 
 effect opened up. Our road led us some 200 or 300 feet 
 above a vast river-bed, probably from a mile to two miles 
 in width, and bounded in the far distance by black 
 mountains. The pebbly bed intersected by dozens of 
 small, blue, snow-fed rivers, barkless trees lying stranded 
 in every direction. How wild this must look in flood, 
 goodness only knows. The view from the Bealey Pass 
 is exceedingly beautiful, and a full moon added an in- 
 describable charm to this lovely region. We rested the 
 night at O'Malley's (The Bealey); two men sleeping in 
 bedrooms not larger than good-sized packing cases. The 
 
Letters from Abroad. 81 
 
 beds were small, but quite large enough to contain lively 
 neighbours beside the original occupants. Each little room 
 has a joint-stock hair brush anything but inviting and 
 tapu (sacred) to me. 
 
 I cannot pretend to describe in detail this glorious region. 
 The impressions are clear enough to my own mind as 
 pictures of mountains, lakes, waterfalls, river-beds, and 
 dense forests, the latter looking in the distance like the finest 
 moss instead of trees, so closely are they grown together. 
 Our road wound over the pebbly flat we had seen the day 
 before. An hour's terrible jolting carried us safely across 
 more than a dozen small rivers, many deep enough to 
 cover the pole ; the five horses splashing, the driver crack- 
 ing his whip or calling on his cattle, gave an animated 
 effect to the picture. As we neared the gorge the scenery 
 was of the wildest, and in one ford of the Waimakariri we 
 were simply pulled by sheer force over the river, the recent 
 rains having in places washed the ford away, substituting 
 blocks of stone. I can assure you we clung like grim death 
 to the trusty coach. Nearly all the rocks on the roadside 
 were covered with pale gray lichen and the stones with red 
 fungus, culminating into bright vermilion ; this contrast to 
 the many-shaded ferns beggars description. Instead of 
 water, the grim mountains seem to send down huge cascades 
 of shale and stone, looking in the distance like gray water- 
 falls. Arthur's Pass is simply one huge landslip, 5,000 feet 
 high in fact, about half a mountain has fallen, blocking the 
 
 entire valley. The road winds gradually to the top, covered 
 
 6 
 
82 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 in places with flowers and tufts of white mountain daisies, 
 these latter three inches across. From here the view is superb 
 2,000 feet above, the snow-tipped and glacier-seamed 
 mountains ; far down below, the thickly-wooded gorge, with 
 foaming Otira gleaming like a thread in the sunlight. Soon 
 after the zig-zag descent commenced. The road is rough 
 and rotten in numberless places, crossed every now and again 
 by little streams. At nearly every turn recent repairs were 
 observable. The first part the driver made at a trot, and until 
 we arrived at the cutting in the bare face of the cliff, we all 
 stuck to the coach. At one bend the leaders were out of 
 sight before the body of the machine turned the corner. It 
 is needless to say this nasty bit was done by the horses at a 
 walk. Young L - and I were in the back, and we 
 were literally over the precipice. After this we all walked, 
 although there was no danger Jiere. The look of the place 
 was very unpleasant, to the ladies and myself in particular. 
 One mile of this pass cost ^20,000 to make. The workmen 
 were slung over the mountain side by ropes, and virtually cut 
 their way inch by inch into the solid rock, blasting being 
 impossible, and finally finished the road by rivetting blocks 
 of timber four feet over the gulf below, no rail or anything 
 to protect one from falling. The cost of keeping the whole 
 of this road in repair is over ^10,000 a year (distance, 150 
 miles). At the bottom of the pass a long rest and homely 
 meal awaited us, and we met a man who had just fished out 
 a mail-bag lost two days ago. The remainder of this inter- 
 esting and somewhat exciting drive took us through one of 
 
Letters from Abroad. 83 
 
 the most beautiful bits of New Zealand bush imaginable, and 
 the road being in capital order, the relief from the previous 
 jolting was priceless. Tall forest trees towering from 100 to 
 200 feet in height, black birch patched with bright crimson 
 mistletoe, tree ferns, endless creepers, supple jacks, twisting 
 everywhere; black pines, fuschia trees, the scarlet-blossomed 
 rata, dead pines standing stark and white. Here and there 
 some forest king had fallen, crushing into fantastic masses 
 smaller brethren, his muddy matted roots, full of bright 
 green ferns, the young fronds looking like burnished 
 copper in the sunlight thick mosses, ferns and flowers 
 carpeting the whole. No human being has ever penetrated 
 these dense and tangled forests, and nature runs riot. 
 The remaining portion of the drive carried us through the 
 "avenue" to Jackson's, and so finished the grandest sight 
 I have ever witnessed, taken as a whole; no touts, no 
 tourists, save ourselves all solemn, quiet, primeval. 
 
 In this hard, but not tiring, drive of four days we must 
 have forded forty rivers; and to give some small idea of the 
 silence and solitude of this lovely country, we only passed 
 two vehicles on the road one being an old coach " stuck 
 up" two. years ago and left; the other, a waggon and team 
 of six horses also, one policeman on horseback, and four 
 navvies. Maher, the driver, gave many bits of anecdote 
 connected with this wild road. He told us "In 1876, 
 when the gold diggings were opened at Hokitiki, three extra 
 coaches were used to convey the diggers, and once, when 
 resting at some regular spot for lunch (in this instance, 
 
84 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 taken with them), the diggers seated on the rising banks 
 around, the coaches in single file on the side of the pass, 
 the horses in a shanty a little way off suddenly a noise was 
 heard, and somehow a river, that had been dammed out of 
 its proper course for years, broke its boundary, and, sweep- 
 ing down the hill-side, carried the three coaches and their 
 contents clean into the gorge below; only bits of the 
 fittings were ever found." The few Maories who live here 
 are very rich, and last week one chief took unto himself a 
 wife. Her trousseau consisted of three satin dresses pink 
 for the wedding ; blue for the afternoon ; and crimson for 
 the ball in the evening. A very old Maori chief, being 
 asked by the inspector for the Government about his title 
 to the land he claimed, replied in a simple matter-of-fact 
 way, that he had not only killed the previous owner, but 
 that he had also eaten him. The word Maori means heart's 
 blood. 
 
 These rough and unfinished sketches have been 
 written under singular disadvantages generally in a 
 smoking-room, with flies buzzing, men chattering, doors 
 opening, coming and going of every kind, bad pen and 
 worse ink but as down they are fairly faithful ideas of a 
 grand, beautiful, and interesting country. At all events, 
 they may give some idea of New Zealand to you at 
 home. I may add, in conclusion, that one night, ten 
 years ago, Jackson's house was swept clean away, and it 
 was with the utmost difficulty the wife and children were 
 taken to the woods on the back of an old mare. In the 
 
Letters from Abroad. 85 
 
 morning acres of land he had taken years to reclaim had 
 vanished, and not a vestige of house or stables left, simply 
 a new river-bed quite a mile wide. The floods here are 
 sudden and terrible. Mount Cook, 13,200, is near this, 
 and forms part of the range. 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 DRIVE TO THE TERRACES. 
 
 LEFT Christchurch, or rather, Lyttleton, by the steamer Roto- 
 
 mahana for Wellington, fully expecting to see A. B . It 
 
 appears from later telegrams that my letters and telegrams 
 must have missed. We found it impossible to wait, for 
 upon consulting steamer and coach guides, we should have 
 lost more than a week. Wellington is a busy, windy, and 
 dusty place, suitable, no doubt, for business, but of little or no 
 interest to the tourist. Steamer to Napier, a very curiously 
 situated town, built on a strip of land hardly above the 
 level of the ocean. Whilst here we witnessed a grand 
 sea, the wind causing the rollers to dash ashore in a 
 magnificent manner the heaviest surf for thirty years. 
 After spending three days at the Criterion Hotel, and seeing 
 over Nelson's meat-works at Hastings, we left at six a.m. 
 on Tuesday for the lake district. The style of conveyance 
 same as used for the Otira Gorge, but travelling was by no 
 means as comfortable, for we started with no less than 
 
86 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 eleven (including the driver, another really good whip) 
 one man seated on Jehu's knee, and a chum of the driver 
 stretched on the luggage behind. A long drive over a 
 sandy spit, in the keen morning air, brought us once more 
 to the inevitable river, and with " a hang on, Charlie," to 
 driver's friend on the luggage behind, and a crack of the 
 whip, we rushed through the shallow water, sparkling in the 
 sunlight. The day was bright and sunny, the atmosphere 
 clear and bracing, clear, except in the distance, where 
 a mist clung round the highest peaks. After many a 
 breather i.e., a walk up the bad bits, and an occasional 
 ford, we reached Pohui at 12.30, lunching off cold mutton, 
 bread, and tea. A new, but to my mind a rather patch- 
 work, team were now put in a big white horse with lame 
 fore-leg, a small white horse, and a cobby bay, as leaders, 
 a mule and a small white mare took the pole the wheels 
 were carefully looked to and well oiled. An impressive 
 drive of some dozen miles found us at Titiokura, the 
 undulating upland extending as far as the eye could reach, 
 broken up at frequent intervals by serrated ridges and 
 globular boles. Vast tracts of bracken, extending for 
 miles, here and there the whole mountain side black from 
 recent burning, in the far distance thick clouds of smoke 
 curling quietly upward from some bush-fire still at work; 
 all around a profound silence. In stormy weather this 
 place must be gloomy in the extreme, the sandy pumice 
 road adding to the stillness, and heightening the effect. 
 Every now and then our Jehu drew up at a road-side 
 
Letters from Abroad. 87 
 
 post-office, a simple pole driven into the soil with a 
 wooden box nailed to the top; and now and then a shade 
 more primitive still, a stick with a slit, and a letter stuck 
 in the divided end; but no trace of human life, except 
 a bridle path into the thick wood, and our own roughly- 
 made track. Once we met a cavalcade of Maories, all 
 on horseback, the ladies astride, each carrying (wrapped 
 in a shawl) a pig, a baby, or a small dog. Now and 
 then a dip but in the main gradually ascending. About 
 four o'clock we reached the highest point of the road, 
 not far from the Block House (a spot where years ago 
 a bloody fight with the natives had taken place), we com- 
 menced our descent. Tauranga Kuma is 2,200 feet high, 
 and the steep side we had to descend exactly 1,250 feet 
 in depth, the road itself covers no less than three and a-half 
 miles, our real advance about half a mile. We rested a 
 moment at the top, and I must admit the view and the 
 general look of the track was not only impressive, but 
 rather appalling; 1,200 feet below, a gorge, with dense 
 forests on either side, the river Mokara running between 
 like a silver streak, fearfully sharp turns of the rotten road 
 visible here and there. Our driver was a consummate whip, 
 driving with knowledge and ease. Off we started at a hand 
 gallop, scattering the fine dust in every direction, whirling 
 round corners with only a foot or so to spare, down and 
 down at the same rapid pace, jolting and vibrating in the 
 most alarming manner. A stumble, a broken trace, an 
 unexpected bank of mud, and nothing on earth could have 
 
88 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 saved us from total destruction. Every now and then, 
 when crossing a small rut made by a mountain stream, 
 the coach rolled from side to side to a very uncomfortable 
 degree. We were all thankful to find ourselves in safety 
 on the level, having done the three and a-half miles in 
 exactly sixteen minutes. Two places were pointed out from 
 the bottom where coaches had gone over. The remainder 
 of the drive was pretty, the golden pampas grass (tui tui), 
 waving above the green bracken, and edging the river to 
 Stony Creek, where the jolting as we crossed the ford was 
 unusually bad. About six p.m., we reached Tarawera. 
 Tarawera (burnt spear head) is a village of three or four 
 houses. Mr. Brill did his best for us by way of rooms 
 and grub but my room hardly measured 10 feet 
 square. Up at five and on for Lake Taupo. The 
 earlier part of the drive was very beautiful, the air 
 clear, everything fresh, the track gradually ascending 
 through volcanic formations surrounded by dense bush 
 (please always remember that here bush means a mighty 
 forest, not a scrub, as we use the word in England); then 
 over miles and miles of wearisome plateau the road, 
 or rather track composed of nothing but white pumice 
 dust, the fine particles penetrating everywhere. Towards 
 the close of a fearfully hot afternoon, Mount Reuapehu 
 (9,100), and volcanic Tongariro (6,500), stood clearly out 
 against a cloudless sky, the former covered with snow, the latter 
 dark and solitary, sending into the still air a lazy wreath 
 of white smoke. The whole drive was simply bone-aching, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 89 
 
 the last mile taken at top speed over a most atrocious 
 set of ruts (mis-named a road), became simply unbearable ; 
 we struck our hats, heads, and backs against everybody 
 and everything, the roof of the coach squashed in both 
 
 L 's and my bowler. We arrived at six, all looking 
 
 the same uniform colour, literally smothered in drab dust, 
 having done the 56 miles in 13 hours. After an unusually 
 rough and tumble meal at the Lake Hotel, kept by a 
 man called Gallagher, who dispenses very poor and dirty 
 entertainment, seasoned with rough and uncouth manners, 
 and the study of economy in the way of politeness must be 
 his custom. We visited after dinner, so-called by courtesy, 
 (for it was an atrocious rneal), a Geyser about two miles 
 from the Hotel, and were well rewarded by seeing three 
 fine volumes of water, some 40 feet in height; the moon- 
 light added to the effect, and I can assure you it was 
 very uncanny picking our way without any path through the 
 scrub, with the steam wafting here and there, coming up 
 from unexpected quarters, the river flowing below, and 
 the noise of the bubbling water close at hand. On our 
 return we were very much taken with the beautiful 
 appearance of Lake Taupo, black Tongariro, and white 
 Reuapehu, looking very lovely in the moonlight. The 
 hotel was crowded, so I very reluctantly allowed another 
 man and perfect stranger to sleep in the same room with 
 myself. My gentleman did not trouble to undress, and 
 less than two minutes completed his morning toilet. 
 Our next day's drive was full of incident. We started 
 
90 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 with a new driver, a wretched team, and a tumble-down 
 coach before we had covered ten miles, the coach came 
 to grief, and had it not been for a Mr. Bold (electrician 
 to the Government, and constructor of the very road we 
 had been travelling on for days), we might have been 
 seriously delayed. He utilised some telegraph wire, odd 
 rope, &c. we then set out again. A few miles further, 
 and a very much more complicated fracture occurred. By 
 the merest chance we were only a mile or so from a 
 log shanty, and after some delay in cutting down a sapling, 
 strapping the same to the remaining bits, we once more 
 took to the track, the poor old bandaged concern in the 
 most sorry condition. It was a laughable sight to see 
 the passengers holding up the body of the coach, while 
 our best man, Mr. Bold, did the necessary repairs, quietly 
 seated on the ground beneath the body of the wretched 
 thing. 
 
 The heat was great, not a drop of water to drink, and 
 we, being very thirsty, even finished up the remains of a 
 " Billy" containing cold tea. The road so-called was simply 
 a well-worn track over pulverised pumice stone, glittering 
 with powdered fell-spar the fine dust found its way every- 
 where. We lunched off mouldy sardines, apricot jam, and 
 tea. This luxurious meal over, we seated ourselves beside 
 the beautiful Wiakato, and smoked a pipe in comfort, for 
 the jolting made a smoke in the coach dangerous to the 
 lips. The last mile or so before reaching Ohinemutu was 
 most refreshing a delicious breeze wafting the odour from 
 
Letters from Abroad. 91 
 
 a regular jungle of sweet briar. We met a few of the 
 
 Carthage passengers (C P , &c.) at the Lake 
 
 Hotel, Ohinemutu, and spent a pleasant hour or so chatting 
 over experiences. Next day we all bathed together in the 
 " Priest Bath," a sulphur pool. It was a funny sight to see 
 the seven brown heads just peeping out of the milky-looking 
 water. This water has the power of turning the body a 
 beautiful red. " Madame Rachel Bath" has also a peculiar 
 effect on the skin, and no end of ladies go in for it. The 
 whole of the ground in this district is covered more or less 
 with fire-holes bubbling, steaming, simmering, and hissing 
 a grand place for pigs ; we saw one fine old fellow lying in 
 a warm mud bath, grunting deep satisfaction as the sun 
 streamed down on the unboiled part, baking and boiling his 
 fat carcase at one and the same time. This is near the 
 Maori district (King Country), and we saw many a fine 
 specimen of the native race; they are all very fond of rum. 
 One dusky beauty looked very striking, attired in a bright 
 red petticoat, bust arranged & la Josephine, black tangled 
 hair, two wisps of curls, like celery tips, plastered at the 
 sides of her forehead, smoking a black clay pipe. This 
 good lady had been worshipping Bacchus, and drunk would 
 feebly express her condition. I am sorry to say spirits have 
 a great fascination for all these natives, and they gradually 
 barter land and everything for it. For the most part they are 
 bright and happy, very strong, and with the most expressive 
 eyes I have ever seen, easy in their bearing, and I soon got 
 to like them very much. Dozens of bronze children, perfect 
 
92 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 little models, dive for pence in Lake Rotorua, and swim 
 like seals soon after two years of age. We strolled into the 
 Ranunga or Palaver House, and I noticed some thirty 
 natives quietly circled around, their faces (some only 
 tatooed) simple, earnest, grave, listening with attention to 
 an address in Maori on the new plan for the township of 
 Ohinemutu. These singular people have many types, some 
 of the men and women strikingly handsome, with noble 
 features, aquiline noses, and strong, tall, muscular frames; 
 they all possess a very nice manner. It is rather wierd 
 to go out alone at night, and in perfect quiet listen to the 
 bubbling, seething, and steaming of this singular place, to 
 feel and smell the sulphur vapour, and then imagine that 
 the whole crust might easily give way. 
 
 THE TERRACES. 
 
 The drive between Ohinemutu and Wairoa is one of the 
 prettiest imaginable; it passes through the Tikitapu Bush 
 for about a mile, grand trees in one continuous stretch. 
 The Remu pine, with its drooping spines, - being very 
 numerous, many trees hung with lichen, looking like hoary 
 Titans, or perhaps coiled in the arms of the dark-stemmed 
 supple Jack. Rocks lie scattered here and there, arched 
 over with ferns whose fronds measure ten or twelve feet in 
 length. This deep dark bush of New Zealand is green all 
 the year round. 
 
 Coming out of the Forest, the beautiful Lake Tikitapu or 
 Blue Lake bursts into view. Passing over a gentle rise, we 
 
Letters from Abroad. 93 
 
 come to the Green Lake, literally fringed with fern. The 
 mirror in these deep basins is sometimes so perfect that one 
 can hardly judge where reflection commences. These 
 lakes take their names from the colour of their water. We 
 slept very comfortably at MacRae's Hotel, and early next 
 morning a short walk brought us to the native Boat-house on 
 the border of Lake Tarawera. Six lusty Maories soon pulled 
 us to a whare (native hut made of rushes), where we pur- 
 chased a basket of live cray fish, and much to our disgust 
 our oarsmen ate some of them alive, shells and all. These 
 fish are about the size of a very large prawn, and are truly 
 delicious. A further pull of five miles (making nine in all) 
 finished the trip to Rotomahana. After a dusty walk of a 
 mile, the famous White Terrace came into sight, and I must 
 confess to a sense of disappointment with its first appear- 
 ance. Having put on cheap slippers bought for the 
 purpose, we commenced climbing up the delicate steps of 
 this marvellous place. You may paint and photograph, but 
 never give any idea except that of outline. Each terraced 
 edge, composed of numberless little basins full to the brim 
 of clear water, dripping slowly to the ledge below, forming 
 in the course of years myriads of tiny stalactites all of pure 
 white silica. The pools take every shade of blue. These 
 coral-like formations can only be "wondered at" not 
 described. The White Terrace is about 100 feet high, and 
 the lowest step is some 200 yards wide, graduating to the 
 top, from whence the supply of boiling water comes. Some- 
 times this huge cauldron at the summit takes the form of a 
 
94 Letters from A broad. 
 
 low but powerful geyser, sending volumes of water in a big 
 rush over the fairy terrace j each step, or part of a step, 
 takes the crescent form. Try and imagine the whole of 
 this natural formation to be fine white petrified moss, and 
 that may perhaps help you to the picture. Terrace after 
 terrace, tinted pool after tinted pool. Every here and there 
 sulphur has fringed the lips of these dainty cups with 
 bright golden hues. A lazy cloud of steam gives a peculiarly 
 sensuous feeling to the whole. 
 
 After leaving the White Terrace we came to a great 
 boiling well, which is intermittent, sending up great volumes 
 of water every few minutes to the height of 10 or 15 
 feet the Devil's Hole, hooting with a blast like a hundred 
 steam engines ; the bright still COPPER green lake. The 
 porridge-pot is a moving mass of hot Fuller's earth, rising 
 and falling with the pressure from below; the natives eat 
 this, but we found it scarcely good value. During our 
 examination of the White Terraces the guides had cooked 
 our cray fish (koura) in a boiling spring, also potatoes, 
 and I would give anything for an artistic sketch of our 
 luncheon party. We sat on stones, or bunches of dry grass 
 by the margin of the lake, two canoes drawn up alongside 
 with a bright-eyed Maori child in the bows of the nearer. 
 Kate, our guide, a native policeman (who, by-the-bye, was a 
 Maori woman) sharing the cray fish with us. A very old 
 tattooed Maori (who owned to a great liking for human flesh) 
 and a couple of younger men shelled the fish and helped us 
 through our simple meal. It was a quaint picnic 5 
 
Letters from Abroad. 95 
 
 Englishmen, 2 Maori women, 3 Maori men, and the bright- 
 eyed child the bubbling of steam-holes the only sound, 
 the pretty long-legged sand-pipers the only audience. On 
 first acquaintance, the canoe did not convey a deep sense of 
 security, but custom soon made us feel at home squatted on 
 our hams in the bottom of this hollowed old tree; every 
 now and then she took in a little water over her ricketty 
 bulwarks. Arrived at the other side we landed on the Pink 
 Terrace. This terrace is not so high as the white, nor so 
 broad, but each step is more clearly defined, and in my 
 humble opinion is much the prettier of the two. Hang the 
 snobs ! ! ! was our exclamation on seeing the pencilled 
 names in every direction over this beautiful work of nature. 
 "Who cares for Brown, Jones, and Robinson ! Who wants to 
 know that one is an auctioneer and another an ironmonger," 
 &c. ! Cads like these have, in this case, gained a very cheap 
 immortality, for by the action of the chemicals in the water 
 a deposit becomes glazed over the pencilled names and 
 thereby made for ever indelible. As I said before, I do not 
 intend to describe the hundred beauties of these unique 
 terraces the soft pink steps of every shade; now and then 
 pale sulphur tints would mingle with the pink and fade into 
 palest gray ; the bright cobalt blue basin at the top, with 
 its yellow bank graduating to pink at the edge, forming a 
 most perfectly even tracery of pink moss; a long, long 
 bath in these beautiful, warm, blue pools ; the dark-skinned 
 natives showing in contrast to the delicate colours 
 around, and as we all stood round the basin leaning on 
 
96 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 the edge of our natural bath the effect of colour was very 
 striking. 
 
 We now all got into one canoe, recrossed Rotomahana, 
 and glided pleasantly down Kaiwaka's rapid stream, the 
 banks fringed with tall green rushes, dotted here and there 
 with wild convolvulus; still the same quiet uninhabited feel- 
 ings a wild duck flushing, the only sound. Another 
 pleasant pull of an hour and a-half, beguiled by Maori and 
 English songs, brought us once more to Wairoa, all having 
 spent a day that will afford conversation for years to come. 
 
 27/7* Feb. We are now saying good-bye to New Zealand, 
 and in an hour more shall be on our way to Sydney by the 
 Ringarooma. I can safely say I leave this country with 
 deep regret. The climate, the soil, the grand foliage, the 
 mountain ranges through which we have worked have 
 afforded plenty of pleasure for eye and mind. This country 
 must have a fine future. I cannot say our 500 miles of 
 coaching has been all comfort, but now the memories of 
 quaint picnics, hard seats, and little mishaps are pleasures, 
 not drawbacks. We drove to Cambridge and thence by 
 rail to Auckland. From Mount Eden the view of Auckland 
 and the two splendid harbours is most charming. We took 
 steamer to Wiawera Hot Springs, and enjoyed a quiet 
 Sunday at this prettily situated watering-place. Miss Graham 
 did the honours of the house, and made us more than com- 
 fortable. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 97 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 SYDNEY, BLUE MOUNTAINS, &c. 
 
 March. We both felt great regret at leaving New 
 Zealand, with its southern Alps so rich in grand scenery, 
 and its daily life teeming with incident. By-the-bye, that 
 reminds me of the Otira Gorge; we met a young doctor who 
 did the drive a few days after us, the coach was upset in 
 crossing a ford, a little girl with himself nearly drowned, the 
 whole coach fell over; of course the passengers on the water- 
 side lay struggling for some time, but all escaped with a nasty 
 ducking. It is difficult to describe things in the hurry and 
 rush of travel, but the memories of the Sulphur Springs 
 rising and falling with mystic sounds on the desolate plains 
 of Ohinemutu, the perfume of the bush fires floating on the 
 quiet summer air, reminding us as they did of some Italian 
 cathedral thick with incense. The evergreen forests carpeted 
 with princely todeas, the mellow note of tui tui (parson 
 bird), the clear, balmy air, the musical language of the 
 Maories, will, I trust, remain as pleasant thoughts for years 
 to come. The pakehah (Maori for stranger), was pleased ! ! 
 The Colonials themselves are, in nearly all classes except the 
 very best people, especially untidy, and careless of the 
 refinements of life. Clubs, with a large number of beds are 
 a necessity, for many, if not most, of the hotels are rowdy, 
 dirty, and the joint-stock hair-brush plainly shows the general 
 habits of travellers; the grub is badly cooked and often tough, 
 
 7 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 the only really tender mutton I remember tasting in New 
 Zealand had been to England and back in a frozen condition, 
 that was simply delicious, and we thoroughly appreciated 
 our lunch at the Wellington Club. The voyage in the 
 Ringarooma from Auckland was unpleasant, the ship dirty, 
 and frequently the meat came to table unfit for food. On 
 Monday, the 3rd March, we steamed into Sydney harbour. 
 This magnificent harbour is broken up into charming bays, 
 wooded to the water's edge, and in most places the shore 
 line is deep enough to berth the biggest ship afloat. Port 
 Jackson Heads may be a quarter of mile wide, but the whole 
 of Sydney harbour has a water boundary of 1,400 miles. 
 Pretty villas and long verandahed houses are dotted here 
 and there. Soon the bays looked larger, the houses more 
 closely packed, and Sydney, with its crowd of shipping, busy 
 wharves, countless ferry steamers, lay before us, situated in 
 the most pleasing and picturesque position possible to 
 imagine. Petty 's Hotel is very comfortable for a Colonial 
 hotel, but for rough feeding, bad waiting, recommend me to 
 the general run of hotels in the Colonies ; they are for the 
 most part managed or owned by the Irish.' Dirt, flies, 
 tumble-down sofas, soiled table-cloths, hat-stands guiltless of 
 pegs, doubtful chairs, and the windows, if by chance you 
 can open them, are sure to run down with a bang when least 
 wanted to do so. The bedrooms are in all cases small, 
 generally innocent of paper, and often divided by a simple 
 wooden partition ; this latter element makes a lively neighbour 
 anything but an agreeable companion up to the present 
 
Letters from Abroad. 99 
 
 I must surely have enjoyed a greater variety of nasal music 
 than falls to the lot of ordinary mortals. Sydney is a well- 
 built but irregular town of 270,000. It can fairly boast of 
 good but rather narrow streets. Some of the buildings are 
 very fine, notably the post-office, although at present the 
 fagade is spoilt by a conceit of the architect, who, being 
 anxious to hand down to posterity the exact style and 
 costume of 1880, has given to the world a most grotesque 
 series of carvings on one panel you will see the modern 
 postman, another panel portrays the betting-man, the next, 
 perhaps, the girl of the period, the following the shopman, 
 with frock coat and Dundreary whiskers, likely enough its 
 fellow will be the judge in wig and robe, again the masher, 
 then perhaps the corn stalk (or young bushman); in short a 
 more horrid, and badly executed design I never beheld. 1 
 fancy the Government intend removing these monstrosities, 
 at least I hope so. "Doing the block" is about the daily 
 routine, i.e., strolling quietly up George Street, down King 
 Street, along Pitt Street, and up Hunter Street j here you 
 meet everybody from 11.30 to 12.30, or 3.30 to 5. The 
 Colonial girls have good figures, and, in the season, generally 
 dress in nice clean white or light dresses, and nearly all 
 have a regular cockney accent. 
 
 The telegraph boys in scarlet jackets, riding at a gallop 
 here, there, and everywhere, make a novel and striking 
 picture. The larrakin (or rowdy) is bred in, and, thank 
 goodness, confined to, the Colonies ; he is a voter, always 
 a red-hot Radical, with a bitter hatred of the "educated and 
 
ioo Letters from Abroad. 
 
 refined," always anxious to vent his spleen on anybody or 
 anything respectable. You can see hundreds of these 
 young ruffians about, all dressed alike in the soft felt billy- 
 cock hat, shirt innocent of collar, hands in pockets, pipe in 
 mouth, leaning against the walls, doorways, and verandah 
 pillars of public-houses. They are slouching and sly, gene- 
 rally possessing the happy knack of kicking old women to 
 death, or assaulting little children. Manhood suffrage pre- 
 vails here, in the lower classes it breeds a more than inde- 
 pendent spirit; a great body, of which the mechanic, waiter, 
 shopman, small store-keeper, domestic, porters, guards, and 
 stewards form a part, have sadly misconstrued the meaning 
 of the word independence, substituting a rough-and-ready 
 insolence of manner, at once useless, quite unnecessary, 
 and particularly distasteful. As a rule, men are poor because 
 they are indolent, or out of health, but no wild doctrine of 
 an equal division of wages or money will mend the matter. 
 I may add the pale, "mealy-faced" larrakins are always run- 
 ning down Old England, and are of the class who would use 
 dynamite without hesitation. We went by train over the 
 Blue Mountains to Mount Victoria, a gradual rise of 3,422 
 feet, the line a splendid bit of work. Drove from the Im- 
 perial Hotel to Govett's Leap, once again the coach " stuck 
 up," but after some delay, and a considerable amount of 
 bandaging, we proceeded on our journey; again I may 
 safely say there is no monotony about coach travelling in 
 the Colonies. Shortly after our breakdown we sighted a 
 huge canyon, extending for miles and miles, over 3,000 feet 
 
Letters from Abroad. 101 
 
 below, covered with what the driver told us was blue gum, 
 but this forest may have been closely packed bushes for 
 ought 'I could make out to the contrary. It takes over four 
 hours to ascend the 3,400 feet, and yet you can lie over the 
 edge of the awful place and drop a stone clean down to the 
 bottom of this terrible gorge without touching anything on 
 its way. No man has ever been known to have entered 
 this enormous basin except Govett, the bushranger, who 
 jumped over to avoid the police, hence " Govett's Leap." 
 From Mount Victoria you can see for fifty miles over 
 undulating ridges cut up into deep canyons, covered with 
 nothing but gum trees, of which there are over 200 different 
 sorts in Australia. The Zigzag Railway is a marvellous 
 work of engineering skill, working down from 3,658 feet 
 
 with a backward and forward movement. L and I 
 
 went down in the guard's van of a mineral train ; as you 
 go down one level you may see the line again on the level 
 below. I returned to Katoomba (Great Western Hotel). 
 Spent a very pleasant evening with the North family. Next 
 day we rode through the bush to the Katoomba Falls, 
 Orphan Rock, Fern Gully, Katoomba Colliery, and other 
 places of interest. The name Blue Mountain is taken from 
 the peculiar appearance these mountains have from a dis- 
 tance. Returning from a long drive the blue effect was 
 on one occasion very marked^ the distant peaks glistened in 
 the setting sun like bright blue steel, the long white arms of 
 the gum trees made natural frames, clearly marking this deep 
 blue colour, not a leaf moving, the half-stripped branches 
 
IO2 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 of the trees stretched forth in gaunt effect, the evening calm 
 and silent. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 THE HAWKESBURY RIVER. 
 
 HAVING heard so much about the fine scenery connected 
 with this beautiful river, I made up my mind to go, with 
 a party if possible, if not by myself. A travelling friend 
 
 of ours, called S , stumbled across an advertisement, 
 
 stating that the "Ocean-going steamer, Admiral? would 
 start from Circular Quay at 9.45, for a trip up the 
 
 Hawkesbury River and back, so L , H , S , and 
 
 I arrived at the wharf in good time, and found the ocean- 
 going steamer to be nothing more or less than a tug-boat. 
 
 L was for turning back, but I, being anxious not 
 
 to miss the excursion, declined, and finally he kindly 
 waived the chance of discomfort and all started. During 
 the night the wind had been getting up, and even inside 
 the Heads the white-crested miniature rollers looked angry; 
 but, once outside, the sea was very bad indeed (even to us 
 old seafarers), and the captain should at once have turned 
 back but even at that early period of the day I detected 
 some slight signs of drinking, so out of sheer bravado he 
 kept on. Our fellow-passengers consisted of some half- 
 dozen females, and perhaps double the number of men 
 
Letters from Abroad. 103 
 
 I may safely say we four were the only people on board 
 with the slightest title to the term gentleman. A fat jolly 
 publican's wife and her barmaid sat in the stern, quietly 
 receiving the spray as it flew across the deck, rather en- 
 joying it than otherwise; the rest of the passengers, bar 
 ourselves, were soon anything but comfortable. The wind 
 was due south, and with us, so after a fast, but really 
 nasty passage, we steamed into the Hawkesbury River. 
 For miles it is very like what Sydney Harbour must have 
 been before the town itself was built; the river, or rather 
 estuary wound in and out through mountainous scenery, 
 the water taking the form of a series of lakes, wooded 
 with green to the very edge, and had it been less cold 
 and dull, no doubt we should have appreciated its beauties. 
 We landed and dined in a corrugated iron shanty, with 
 about a dozen or more big, leather-belted men, navvies I 
 think; some clad simply in trousers, shirts, and soft felt 
 hats, others better dressed, but these latter were all from 
 the "larrakin class;" the whole meal was rough and rushed. 
 After a short stroll we again got on board the Admiral, 
 with the addition of some dozen or so taken from our 
 dinner mates. We were interested in the scenery, until 
 we made Broken Point, and once again found ourselves 
 fairly in the open sea. During our trip up and down the 
 Hawkesbury, the wind had increased to a " southerly 
 buster." This playful gentleman was now lashing the water 
 into fury, our little steamer being dashed into every position 
 by the huge seas, and from her deck the waves looked 
 
IO4 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 immense. The leaden waste of sky, wild winds, and 
 tumbling clouds appeared anything but comforting, a 
 fellow tug turned back, making for shelter, but our captain 
 in pure devilment kept on. The sea and foam began to 
 
 dash over her, L made for the engine-room ; we three 
 
 laid hold of the iron bar where the big hook for towing 
 is fixed, got a coil or so of rope to stand upon, and simply 
 waited. Nobody could stand without holding on, and all 
 were drenched to the skin. 
 
 The spirit bar was somewhat sheltered, and therefore 
 getatable, and soon a number of larrakins were drunk; some 
 lying on the deck, others holding on to anybody or anything. 
 The chief engineer was encouraged to drink by a sturdy 
 brute in a fur cap ; the only two sailors on board were fast 
 becoming drunk and incapable. The captain now saw 
 danger, and pulling himself together, tried to get the bar 
 closed, but to no purpose, and finding the sailor was steering 
 so badly he was obliged to take the wheel, upon which these 
 wretches stormed, or perhaps I should say held, the bar, 
 and free drinking was the result. We expostulated, but of 
 course to no purpose. It was a horrid sight. Raw brandy 
 out of tumblers soon finished the men only half gone before. 
 We could not keep the engineer to his room. He was up 
 and at the bar every few minutes; once he fell slap into the 
 engine-room. One frightful dip, and away floated part of 
 the bulwark on the port side; next lurch, the clock and 
 
 steam-gauge (as I found from L after) came to smash, 
 
 and very soon the stoke-hole was some inches deep in 
 
Letters from Abroad. 105 
 
 water. Another terrific lurch, and a piece of timber fell on 
 the legs of a big larrakin, bruising them very severely, and 
 about half a dozen iron bars got loose, rolling from side to 
 side in a somewhat nasty manner. This tug had no real 
 cabin, but a sail-room forward. Into this the women and 
 children were dragged or pushed, and the sky-light closed 
 down, and for two hours we went at half speed in the 
 teeth of a very heavy and dangerous sea ; the rain came 
 down. What with the foam and constant rush of water on 
 the deck, everybody and everything looked bad. A dozen 
 or more were lying about horribly sick; nobody could 
 possibly stand over the side, as the bulwarks were so low. 
 The storm continued with greater force than ever. We 
 appeared to be making little, or very little way, and nothing 
 could have looked worse. 
 
 We three were still holding on to the bar, red-eyed and 
 stupid, when, amid the howling of the wind, the rattling of 
 the engines, we heard screaming and shouting forward, and 
 found the sky-light lifted clean off, with no end of water in 
 the hold. After much trouble, it was patched up and tied 
 down. 
 
 The little steamer behaved splendidly, and at last seemed 
 to be gaining . headway. It was close on night when we 
 steamed through Sydney Heads, in company with the 
 City of Grafton, a paddle-steamer of over 500 tons, and 
 when I tell you we could now and then see from her bows 
 to her paddle-wheels clear of water, you rnay imagine what 
 the sea was like. W T hat a terrible risk our little craft (75 
 
io6 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 tons) had escaped none can tell. Had the engines given 
 way, or one green sea got into the engine-room, nothing 
 could have saved the boat. Moral This is the way to 
 spend a happy Sunday!!!! 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 BRISBANE, WARWICK, GLENELG. 
 
 I STARTED on the 1 8th March for Brisbane by the Maranoa 
 (Queensland Shipping Company), a very comfortable 
 steamer of 2000 tons. The day was perfect, and Sydney 
 Harbour, lying beneath a cloudless sky, covered with a 
 mosquito fleet of white-sailed yachts, looked simply lovely. 
 Some local Regatta being on, the whole Harbour, and Rose 
 Bay especially, appeared literally alive with craft of all 
 kinds. The forty-eight hours' steaming along the coast was 
 a pleasant run for those on deck, but made in awfully hot 
 weather. 
 
 My cabin companions were simply nasty to a degree 
 drunk, incapable, and sick the whole voyage. It is difficult 
 for a man quite unused to wield the pen to write the story 
 of his travels without wearying his readers, and doubtless 
 my similes have been repeated over and over again, but 
 I really cannot help it. Moreton Bay is a large shallow 
 lagoon, nearly surrounded by land, buoyed out for the 
 traffic. The Brisbane River itself is broad and circuitous, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 107 
 
 banked by low-lying marshy soil, and just now rich in bright 
 green maize. The Chief Justice of Queensland was a 
 passenger on board the Maranoa^ and in honour of his 
 return a steamer decked out with bunting awaited our 
 arrival, and the old gentleman (Sir Charles Lilley) received 
 a very warm welcome from his friends of the bar. Brisbane 
 itself is a new and well-built city of some 20,000. As usual, 
 the public buildings are magnificent. The new Queensland 
 Club, overlooking the Botanical Gardens, and close to a 
 small lake covered with huge golden-shaded water-lilies 
 would put to shame many of the largest Clubs in the old 
 country. The Original Club-House is a quaint old place 
 the dining-rooms, &c., in front, the bedrooms arranged, 
 at the back on three sides of a quadrangle overlooking a 
 garden full of tropical flowers, the beaugain villia and 
 yellow alamanda trailing all over the roof; every bedroom 
 on the ground-floor f opens out on this creeper-covered 
 verandah. 
 
 At seven o'clock on any morning you might safely count 
 upon seeing a dozen pyjamed men leaning on the balcony, 
 sponge in hand, towel on arm, chatting, and waiting their 
 turn for the all-glorious tub, the hot sun pouring down, 
 making a return from the morning's shower "too awfully nice," 
 and about the finest time in the day for a quiet cigarette. 
 
 E. B met me at the Club, and an introduction 
 
 followed to some good fellows. The evenings spent at 
 
 Neustead with the H family (Queensland merchant) will 
 
 remain a pleasant reminiscence. Neustead is situated on a 
 
io8 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 spur of the Brisbane river, high enough up to catch all the 
 breeze, but near enough to see the passing and repassing of 
 steamers, yachts, canoes, &c. The building is a very large 
 one. Every room opens out on a huge verandah, the latter 
 quite surrounding the entire premises, fitted with dozens of 
 lounge chairs, afternoon tea tables, sofas, hammocks, small 
 trees in pots, china sets, &c. Neustead is quite an open 
 
 house, and Mrs. G H a charming woman with 
 
 married children, but wonderfully full of life and good- 
 nature, untiring in fun; she leaves on the loth for England 
 on a visit to a married daughter. On the same afternoon 
 you may see some twenty people chattering and laughing 
 the daughter with her friends, the son with his chums, old 
 
 H with his cronies, and so on no stiffness or humbug, 
 
 go or come, do what you like. They often hold scratch 
 dances on moonlight nights, and the whole suite of 
 rooms dining, drawing, reading, and smoking open with 
 French windows from ONE side of this jolly old house. 
 They have lived twenty years under the same roof, and 
 Neustead is another name for hospitality. 
 
 During the day I felt the damp muggy heat of Brisbane to 
 be very bad, sometimes the heat has been 120 in the shade, 
 but during my short stay I was more fortunate, although 
 the dull glare was far too much for my somewhat delicate 
 
 eyes. After spending two or three days here, B and I 
 
 started for the Bush. We spent one evening at Warwick 
 
 with the D 's, a small family of some dozen or so, and 
 
 early next morning a light American buggy and two well- 
 
Letters from Abroad. 109 
 
 bred chestnuts soon put the township far behind. The 
 whole country round here, and, in fact, everywhere is suffer- 
 ing from severe drought, no vegetation whatever, everything 
 looking parched and dry to a degree quite unthought of by 
 you at home ; the barest cricket patch on Durdham Downs 
 would be rich in grass compared to the Darling Downs just 
 now. We called upon old Jacob Kercher, a Queensland 
 wine grower went over the vineyard, into his cool cellars, 
 and as the carbonic acid gas escaped the mystic bubblings 
 were very audible. The old chap was originally a practical 
 man in a German vineyard, settling here 20 odd years ago, 
 now his little property is a very valuable possession old 
 Jacob makes pure and good wines from the best stock in 
 Europe. We sampled Hermitage and Hock and went on 
 our way rejoicing, leaving an order with the old gentleman, 
 that, I trust, may help to make some of my readers as jolly 
 as it made us. A drive through an Australian bush is novel 
 but monotonous. Everywhere the everlasting eucalyptus, 
 growing at a distance of some ten yards or so apart. On and 
 on over the dry hard land all silence and solitude. About 
 mid-day we reached a creek there the horses were watered 
 and fed, ourselves also taken care of. Soon the country 
 looked better, and I found we were going through Glenelg. 
 Later on in the afternoon we passed nine-mile gate. Shortly 
 
 after M and H cantered up to meet us. M 
 
 on Rocket, a dark well-bred chestnut, M looking very 
 
 bright and really little altered, perhaps a trifle stouter. The 
 welcome was hearty. H appeared much the same, if 
 
no Letters from Abroad. 
 
 anything, a shade thinner, but the bush has evidently given 
 him self-confidence, and he looks altogether tanned and 
 wirey. During a rainy season, Glenelg must be very pretty; 
 the house is situated on rising ground backed by a hill, the 
 cluster of buildings covering a large extent, and surrounded 
 by the not to be too much-prized verandah, covered with 
 vines and a grand Westeria, the latter with a stem as 
 large as a man's leg, shading by itself the supports and 
 roof over one side of the house. The wool shed, out-build- 
 ings, store, and cottages form a somewhat imposing group 
 all on the banks of a creek, just now rather dry. I am told 
 some of the water holes contain rock cod 10 to 40 Ibs. in 
 weight. I saw one 4 pounds. The children met us at the 
 bottom of the hill, anxious to see what the new Uncle 
 
 H was like. B the elder was soon hard at work 
 
 unpacking a new saddle his father had brought home for 
 him, and the others showed their good taste by deserting 
 uncle for sweets, toys, and beads. They are nice-looking, 
 well-grown children, with beautiful eyes and eyelashes the 
 
 baby a splendid specimen. B 's station is 245 square 
 
 miles in extent, and in a good season he must do well. The 
 garden at the foot of the hill and close to the creek is nicely 
 kept by " John Chinaman." The house garden is round 
 the house planted with roses, &c., but just .now dry and 
 unlovely. I went out kangaroo shooting one day, and 
 although I saw a lot, did not get near enough for a shot. 
 A long ride through the Australian bush is novel. Yesterday 
 we had a fishing picnic, and my start was anything but 
 
Letters from A broad. 1 1 1 
 
 amusing. B - had a new horse called Charcoal, one I 
 
 had ridden quietly enough before, and B has frequently 
 
 been on his back. This time I was hardly on when he gave 
 a terrific buck, pitching me clear up into the air; thank 
 goodness I landed on the part nature intended for accidents 
 of a similar kind, a big bruise and a nasty shaking the only 
 result. A buck-jumper puts his head between his legs, 
 brings all four legs together, makes one bound into the air, 
 arching his back into a half-circle. Seeing I was all right, 
 we all laughed, and I laughed, but I can't say much for the 
 heartiness of my attempt I fancy a grin would better express 
 my meaning. Charcoal left the company, and spent the day 
 in the bush. There are traces of gold all over Glenelg, and 
 
 after seeing the ladies, H , and M 's eldest boy safe 
 
 under the trees by the side of the creek, we drove to the 
 diggings, but, owing to shortness of water, no work was on. 
 
 E B gave me two capital specimens of gold in the 
 
 quartz. The heat is VERY GREAT, the sky hard and brazen, 
 the country perfectly dry, and unless rain comes shortly the 
 suffering and loss must be TERRIBLE. The kangaroo does 
 well here, and during the last three years 16,000 have been 
 killed on this station alone. The flies are simply lively 
 beyond expression, as for writing, reading, or sleeping in 
 
 peace, it can't be done. All M 's children have active 
 
 and industrious feet, and as they scamper round the hollow 
 wooden-floored verandah they make a noise calculated to 
 upset a saint, much less a man stiff and sore from yesterday's 
 fall. The laughing jackass, or settler's clock, and I are well 
 
H2 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 acquainted; he commences his demoniacal row at sunrise 
 
 and sunset. B looks at home as a squatter, dressed in 
 
 white, with broad-brimmed straw hat, and dark tanned face. 
 We ride everywhere unless on horseback you may safely 
 say we are seated or lying at length under the shingle-covered 
 roof of the verandah. No carpets in the house, simply 
 beautifully clean boards, with furs, rugs, &c., lying all over 
 the place. I leave here in about a week for Sydney, and 
 shall not be at all sorry to see San Francisco, for steamers 
 with huge smoke stacks, staring dead lights, stuffy cabins, 
 are becoming a trifle tedious. I suppose my next letter 
 will be posted from 'Frisco, or I may get a chance for 
 a line or so at Sydney. I think the most curious thing in 
 the whole of these flourishing Colonies is the astounding fact 
 that rents should be double what they are in the crowded 
 and circumscribed towns of England. I have tasted, and I 
 may say revelled, in some, new and glorious fruits, the mango, 
 the date plum, the smooth-leaved pine, and passion fruits, 
 stand foremost ; the pears are good, but old England stands 
 first there. No rain for twelve months round Inglewood 
 just fancy this. The number of gorgeous parrots in the 
 
 bush is peculiar and beautiful to a stranger's eye. B 
 
 has a capital bath-room, and every one takes one or two 
 showers a day. It is a pretty sight to see all the children in 
 this big bath at once, splashing, laughing, thoroughly enjoy- 
 ing themselves. My costume consists of riding breeches, 
 sox, and shirt, nothing else, except boots, and a soft felt hat. 
 112 in the shade. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 113 
 
 OPOSSUM SHOOTING GLENELG. 
 
 4//5 April. You always select a moonlight night for this 
 sport, because these sharp little marsupials only come out 
 after dark, and generally choose the highest branch of the 
 tallest gum tree this silly trick of theirs makes opossum 
 shooting neck-aching work, and like marriage, not to be 
 
 undertaken lightly. H , B , and I started soon 
 
 after dinner (about eight o'clock), and in less than ten 
 minutes we were in the horse paddock. Now, a bush 
 horse paddock is generally a small enclosure of some 
 1,000 acres, close to the homestead, and covered with 
 gum trees some 30 or 40 yards apart; a great many of 
 these trees are ring-barked, /.*., the bark is cut away in 
 a circle about 3 feet from the ground, and in time the 
 trees die, and stand white, staring and leafless until a sudden 
 gust of wind sends them over there they lie in hundreds 
 (this killing of the trees gives the grass a chance), until 
 decay makes them ' into dust. I very soon found that 
 decay had not done its duty properly, for with my head 
 up and eyes peering into the trees, I fell over a stump; 
 I was awfully lucky in falling, for I bumped every bone 
 in my body, upset my cartridges, sent my gun flying 
 and had to grope for them among the stones and short 
 grass. In this attempt I had not the good luck to put 
 my hand on a sleeping snake, but an unfortunate man 
 like myself can't expect everything, anyhow, I always 
 carried all my cartridges in my pocket after this, and 
 
 loaded only when I saw "pussy." H S , soon 
 
 8 
 
114 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 called out "here you are;" so away I rushed over the 
 dry, short slippery grass, and in my anxiety for a shot, 
 fell into a small dry creek, barking my shins; this led 
 to profanity. I was soon close to Harry, and could easily 
 see my little hairy friend standing out against the moon- 
 light. B said, " keep him in a line with the moon 
 
 and fire." I think I did fire at the moon, for the little 
 beggar made a horrid row, and soon hid himself in the 
 leaves above my head. My next shot was more to the 
 purpose, for down he came with a thud, missing my nose 
 by about an inch. My good luck never deserted me, for 
 I next ran against a branch of a tree, scratching my face, 
 and bunging up an odd eye or so and finally caught 
 my feet in some old wire fencing, tore my inexpressibles, 
 drove my great toe nearly through my boot ! here I again 
 said something. Anyway I killed eleven 'possums out of 
 thirteen shots. Next day I visited my looking-glass, and 
 as I looked, I really thought a good showman might have 
 made something out of me, as the " Brisbane chicken 
 after the battle." My eyes were quiet and retiring, the 
 nose seemed out of the perpendicular, my lips had more 
 flesh than usual I could tell that without any glass, and a 
 beautiful scratch made the mouth look about four inches 
 long, my shins were very handsome, all blue and red; I 
 can safely say, 'possum shooting, like coaching, is not mono- 
 tonous. My neck seemed to belong to some one else, for it 
 did not fit in the least. The reading of this may amuse 
 you, but the reality hardly had that effect upon me. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 1 1 5 
 
 A KANGAROO DRIVE. 
 
 E B , being anxious to show me Australian sport, 
 
 organised a drive, and I can give you my word kangaroo 
 shooting is exciting, especially to the novice. On the 
 morning of the day fixed, a motley group mustered in the 
 garden paddock. Some twenty white and black men all 
 mounted on active horses, gun on thigh, dressed in white 
 trousers, striped shirts, broad-brimmed straw hats, their horses 
 well bred, and capital climbers this band to act as beaters. 
 
 M , Miss B , Mrs. S , H , and I on horseback ; 
 
 E B , driving a buggy and pair with Mrs. B , 
 
 nurse, baby, and B ; Tommy with a spring-cart con- 
 taining the rest of the children, and a huge clothes' basket 
 full of "tucker," Australian name for grub, hence "Tommy 
 Tucker." After five miles drive through the bush the caval- 
 cade drew up beside the bank of a creek overshadowed by 
 gum trees, here we left the ladies and children to arrange the 
 picnic. We men rode right away two miles or so farther into 
 the bush. The plan of action is very simple; the kangaroos 
 are forced on a line of gunners, each behind a large tree, every 
 man stationed about 100 yards apart; each shot having 
 tethered his horse some 150 yards behind him, quietly (and 
 in my case somewhat nervously) awaited the game. Twenty 
 beaters on horseback form a HUGE semicircle embracing 
 thousands of acres, and gradually force the animals on the 
 line of fire, and by degrees narrow the limit. My first shot 
 was at a big wallaroo, standing some 7 or 8 feet in height. 
 
1 1 6 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 When I fired he was bounding with enormous strides, or 
 rather hops, towards me ; he fell dead after one big jump, 
 and I was not sorry, for these old men can rip a dog or 
 horse clean up with one blow of their powerful hind leg, 
 and at all times are nasty customers at close quarters. It 
 was a curious sight to see these long-legged animals hopping 
 along with gigantic bounds, suddenly stopping when they 
 fancied danger. They are not so easy to hit as may be 
 imagined, for the trees are numerous, and, according to the 
 rules of this sport, you may only fire right in front and right 
 behind : I can tell you the flyers hop along at a tremendous 
 pace. In about half-an-hour the cracking of whips, yells, 
 shouts, and the thump, thump of the game made me feel 
 excited. Everything was going well for my position when 
 
 E 's horse broke loose; of course he was bound to 
 
 follow him this spoilt his and my sport, for mammies, 
 veterans, wallaroos, and wallabies rushed down the open 
 space caused by his absence and out of my range ; never- 
 theless we did fairly well, and many a scalp hung from our 
 horses' head-gear on our return to M 's camp. I 
 should tell you that the kangaroo is so numerous the 
 Government give 8d. a head for the scalp, so you may be 
 sure all shoot as well as possible. I think the " mammies " 
 are the mothers, and "joeys" the little beggars in the 
 pouch. Being all hot and dusty we mounted and returned 
 to lunch. How much " Billy tea " I drank will remain a 
 mystery. It was a pretty sight this bush picnic, free and 
 easy, the beaters about 100 yards off, with horses tethered 
 
Letters from A broad. 117 
 
 close to their hands, guns against trees, all doing justice to 
 
 M 's providing, we ourselves wiring into lobster salad, 
 
 salmon and cucumber, &c., looking brown and dusty under 
 a cloudless sky. The same kind of drive was repeated in 
 another spot, and this time my chief show was a grizzled 
 veteran. The whole day was novel and exciting; the 
 gallop home through the endless bush most enjoyable. 
 
 You cannot get a finer bush driver than E B , his 
 
 eye and knowledge are marvellous. The track winds in 
 and out through standing trees, dead stumps, stones, rocks, 
 and fallen trees. He goes at a very fast pace ; at first you 
 expect to be dashed against something, but his practised 
 skill clears all bothers, and you feel half intoxicated with 
 the glorious air and rapid pace. The mornings and 
 evenings are crisp and cool; the days cloudless and sunny. 
 Mid-day heat 103 in the shade. 
 
 , TIPPING, &c. 
 
 I have now seen the manners and customs of most coun- 
 tries, but in no place does this nasty habit of tipping take 
 such a prominent place as it does in England. HERE, if 
 you think the boots has done you an extra good turn, you 
 give him 25. 6d. or so after a week's stay ; but here, thank 
 goodness, you miss that horrid sensation of being watched 
 away. I am sure that tipping is pernicious in the extreme. 
 No matter where a man goes in England, he must start and 
 finish with fees. You fee a railway porter to put your lug- 
 gage in a cab ; you fee the guard for a comfortable seat ; 
 you overpay the cabman. Remain a day or so at the hotel, 
 
1 1 8 Letters from A broad. 
 
 call for the bill, and that is the signal for attack. There is 
 the chambermaid just outside your door with a broom laid 
 hold of for the occasion, the boy whom you never thought of 
 asks if he may not carry down the small hand-bag for you, the 
 boots rushes the baggage on the roof, smug waiters you never 
 saw before stand round the hall. In my daily bill I see is. 6d. 
 for service, and yet these men crowd about and make you 
 feel uncomfortable unless you give them something. The 
 system is bad, and the coin spent goes indirectly into the 
 pockets of the landlords. This nuisance is not confined to 
 hotels ; go to a man's place for a dance, and there stands 
 the girl (more frequently a hired waiter has pushed her out) 
 ready for a tip. This horrid nuisance permeates every walk 
 of life. Go over a charitable institution, and you fee the 
 party showing you over. Dine at friend's house, and you 
 fancy a fee should be given to the maid or man. If you 
 have been in the habit of going to the same house often, and 
 always finding the same servant there, then I don't so much 
 mind a good 'Xmas box. No one can estimate how this 
 system lowers the tone of hospitality. You fee the scavenger, 
 the coalman, and so on. If a man calls with a parcel he 
 expects a glass of ale ; the postman and all expect tips in 
 fact, this despicable business extends more or less through 
 every branch of life. This nuisance cannot be properly 
 gauged, for none like to look small, consequently the 
 employer underpays his servants and the travelling public 
 go about in discomfort. Of course I shall fee until, as the 
 Vicar of Bray says, the " times do alter ; " but really the 
 
Letters from Abroad. 119 
 
 system is horrid. There is another good thing out here : 
 you don't hear so much of that mawkish "lovey dear," 
 "wifey dear;" endearing names in the Colonial family circle 
 are not repulsive and generally better chosen. 
 
 CHURCHES IN THE COLONIES. 
 
 The English Church in the Colonies is mostly supported 
 by voluntary contributions, and have little or no fund 
 except that doled out from the Establishment at home. 
 The contrast to the Church management here and that in 
 England is very marked the manner of its men so 
 different. Here you do not see the mass of want and 
 pauperism that exists at home side by side of wealth beyond 
 the dream of avarice. Probably no country in the world 
 possesses such means as England possesses for the relief 
 of poverty and the teaching of ignorance, for the lordly 
 generosity of past generations placed in the hands of a 
 priestly class vast sums to be used for the physical as well 
 as the spiritual benefit of the poor. Unfortunately but a 
 fraction of the Churches' endowed means are devoted to the 
 objects to which they were originally intended. The vast 
 wealth of the Established Church, which should mainly be 
 expended on the relief of physical distress, is practically 
 employed in maintaining a class whose mission is to preach 
 a " false peace to the well-to-do," and a " base content to 
 the ill-to-do." But this priesthood are not content to deal 
 fairly with the vast wealth entrusted to them, and originally 
 intended for the temporal wants of the poor, for instructing 
 
I2O Letters from Abroad. 
 
 those unable to pay for the commoner forms of education, 
 and publishing to the world a true spiritual life. The 
 Church of England as a body goes out of its way, seducing 
 the rich to give, give, give for the multiplying of churches 
 and endowments over the land the bulk of all monies 
 collected is for this purpose; not to give the bread of 
 material benefit, not to educate the masses, for the State 
 has taken that in hand, but to build some fancy edifice that 
 once a week (or perhaps oftener) shall be open for a few 
 hours for those who have suitable clothes to wear, new 
 bonnets to show, and at least a threepenny-bit to put into 
 the inevitable plate. In London, Bristol, and all great 
 cities, hospital accommodation for the poor is daily proving 
 less and less equal to the demands upon it, and yet only 
 once a year do we hear anything for the real needs of poor 
 suffering humanity. No! Church Extension is the selfish 
 cry, and what does it mean but the further enrichment of a 
 caste, more patronage for Bishops, more livings only half- 
 endowed, and duly supplemented by the bag of bags. 
 During the last few years, when the English farmer was 
 suffering and landlords were remitting 10, 20, and even as 
 much as 50 per cent, from their rents, the Clergy of the 
 Church of England in no case allowed the fraction of a 
 tithe to lapse. Even now it is only the fashionable Churches 
 that really fill, the poor will not go to church, and it is 
 always a question with new comers to a district to select 
 the church where the best people go, and this is Religion. 
 How can the cold propriety of the Church of England 
 reach the masses? When we do see here and there a little 
 
Letters from Abroad. 121 
 
 moral light filtering through the terrible mass of dense 
 darkness that envelopes huge centres, we can only think 
 with amazement what the riches of this powerful body could 
 really do if honestly applied. Their cry is, " Come to 
 church;" and what does the comer find in many of these 
 so-called Christian Churches? why, grotesque antics that 
 sensible people recoil from, or in many cases a formal 
 service frequently mumbled over, thereby making the 
 Church's splendid ritual unimpressive and worse than 
 useless. Here the clergyman appears to be more sturdy, 
 more manly; but even here this huge patchwork machine is 
 gradually shaping itself to the same end, and forming itself 
 on the same old lines. What is it all but a huge guild, so 
 solid and powerful, that the good it does do is bound to be 
 something, but if the funds were only fairly handled the result 
 on the low, the dirty, the ignorant, would be incalculable. 
 Let the Church's cry to the poor be self-reliance, self-respect, 
 cleanly homes, and the highest self-interest, and above all, 
 moderation not only come to church. 
 
 There is one thing sure, however much the Bishops and 
 clergy differ on matters of detail, or minor points of ritual 
 they certainly manifest a general unanimity in securing to 
 themselves all that the law allows, and as much more as may 
 be eloquently drawn from the public pocket. 
 
 If the Clergy had the real welfare of the masses at heart, 
 their cry would be give, not for the multiplication of Churches 
 over the land, but, give freely that we may build Theatres, 
 Music Halls, Billiard Rooms, Recreation and Dancing 
 Grounds, &c., where the poor may find occupation, amuse- 
 
122 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 ment, and instruction. Could such be obtained and placed 
 under manly, enlightened, and far-seeing authority, the 
 public-house would soon become deserted, the self-satisfied 
 patch of blue ribbon would vanish from the land, modera- 
 tion would take the place of fanaticism, and drunkenness 
 would gradually become less and less. It is this want of 
 amusement that brutalises the English poor; amuse them, 
 take them away from their terrible surroundings, let them 
 have water, warmth, and wash-houses, cheap as possible, and 
 the time may some day come when the poor will go of their 
 own accord to Church. 
 
 The fancies of this generation will be the facts of the next. 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 ON BOARD THE PACIFIC MAIL S.S. AUSTRALIA. 
 (CAPTAIN GHEST). 
 
 2th April. I forget if I mentioned my visit to Jacob 
 Kercher, the wine-grower. The old man has a small vine- 
 yard of about 90 acres under full cultivation,- and some 100 
 or so just planted, or ready for planting. He was originally 
 with a German grower in Europe, also his wife. Now they 
 have a nice homestead, freehold land, cool cellars, all to 
 themselves. Wine-growing in Australia is really of consider- 
 able importance, and men like old Jacob, with his quiet 
 manner, general knowledge, and Colonial experience, are 
 preparing wine not only for Australia but Europe. Some of 
 the Colonial wines are unquestionably too powerful and 
 doctored, also the grapes are plucked too ripe, but a careful 
 
Letters from Abroad. 123 
 
 man like our friend produces a rich wine far superior to the 
 lower class of Burgundy, and quite pure (at least so far as 
 this vineyard goes). The soil and climate are eminently 
 propitious for wine-growing. Kercher's vats are beautifully 
 clean, and I thoroughly enjoyed my smoke, chat, and 
 homely meal with the old gentleman. As I sit in the 
 saloon of the Australia I cannot help recalling incidents 
 and impressions connected with the Colonies now left far 
 behind. Our time, on the whole, has been spent enjoyably, 
 and swiftly, too swiftly flown. Both have gained a large 
 experience, and the early gloom cast over the trip is gradually 
 wearing off. My stay in Queensland, and especially in 
 Glenelg, impressed me more perhaps than any other portion 
 of the tour. I shall never forget one ride with Maggie 
 through the bush, with its blue-green foliage. We were 
 returning from mustering some 10,000 sheep. As we rode 
 homeward there appeared a glorious sunset on the Woolshed 
 Hill. For a moment each sharp crag took the colour of 
 gold, then became crimson, and finally purple. As our 
 horses walked side by side I grasped for the first time the 
 reality of intense solitude so vividly marked in this 
 Australian bush. Bare of humanity, nothing to break the 
 stillness but the chirp of some insect, the occasional whirr 
 of a flock of parrots, or the far away flop, flop of the heavy 
 kangaroo. This peculiar silence and the heat became nearly 
 oppressive. As the sun went down the crisp evening air 
 pulled us together, creating a desire for action, so we started 
 into a gallop, Maggie's skirts brushing the gum trees as we 
 rode neck and neck over stony slopes encumbered with logs 
 
124 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 and brushwood, through gullies fringed with green, past 
 water holes covered with lilies ; on and on, with now and 
 then a spice of danger to the " new chum," pulling up at 
 last close to the boundary gate, horses panting, the riders 
 flushed with the grand exercise. No wonder Maggie looks 
 well. Our Colonial cousins are certainly a " long-suffering, 
 law-abiding," good-natured people in the matter of railway 
 travelling. The pace is slow, the carriages dirty, the 
 jolting terrible, the porters indifferent, and the number 
 of stoppages awful. All railways are Government property, 
 and at holiday time the crush is fearful. I shall never fail 
 to remember twelve solid hours spent in a dusty carriage 
 on the festive day preceding Good Friday. The natural 
 products of Brisbane hospitality and mosquitoes. The 
 glorious sunny days spent in Sydney harbour, with 
 their picnics, fishing, and seining ; the Rainswick race- 
 course gay with colour and splendid horses everything so 
 carefully thought out and easily managed, are now but 
 memories. Of course there are a great many things con- 
 nected with the Colonies one cannot like. The food 
 is abundant, but, on the whole, badly cooked, and 
 indifferently put on; the attendance bad. Hotel accom- 
 modation anything but good the bedrooms are small, 
 and by no means as clean as we find them at home 
 the servants and young people behind the counter are 
 simply careless, sometimes very nearly impertinent; this 
 is more marked in the small country stores. There is a 
 great deal of unnecessary " blowing " or bragging of " what 
 we have done," " how rich we are," but to an extent that 
 
Letters from Abroad. 125 
 
 may be excused, for really the wonder is how much has been 
 really accomplished in so few years. I am sorry to record 
 that drinking is far more marked out here than at home, 
 and the system of " shouting " is simply nasty to a degree. 
 Shouting means an excuse to get a drink without looking 
 as though you were drinking for drinking's sake, by asking 
 another to join you and expecting the same compliment 
 later on. 
 
 The Australia of the Pacific Mail Co. is a long narrow 
 ship of some 3,000 tons, fairly comfortable, but all day long 
 she has been rolling terribly, and many a good man has 
 cast his bread upon the waters, neither caring nor hoping for 
 a return, and one poor lady next cabin to ours has suffered 
 in an alarming manner. My left hand companion at table 
 
 (for of course L always sits on 6ne side) is a very pretty 
 
 girl, and the greatest flirt I have ever come across. I 
 apologised for not being younger, and offered to give place 
 to her selection, but she deigned to tell me I did very well 
 
 indeed as a dinner companion. Her father, Captain M , 
 
 is a decent old sort, and altogether I must not grumble at 
 my place. The rolling during the night was bad hardly any 
 real sleep for the best of us. The water got into some- 
 body's cabin, the male belonging to the same continued 
 saying all manner of polite things in an audible voice, and 
 howling for the steward. Boxes and 'bags were sliding 
 about; groaning and noises all over the ship; all the empty 
 water-cans in the passage met in one big bang outside our 
 door, then tumbled over each other, and finally skuttled off 
 to pay another call. Few were at breakfast, and all looked 
 
1 26 Letters from A broad. 
 
 jolly cross. I think we have the champion snorer of New 
 Zealand close to us he has already forced his cabin com- 
 panion to sleep on deck he makes night hideous by terrific 
 noises. Yesterday, being April the 3oth, was Wednesday, 
 and as Thursday is May the ist, we put in an extra Thurs- 
 day as we were crossing 180, for of course you know we 
 gain a day in going round the world. The Australia 
 averages 300 knots, and is fairly comfortable; but our cabin 
 companion is a stick and lout. We danced in the saloon 
 last night with the thermometer 90. I don't remember 
 ever having such hard work. I helped as M.C. ; and had 
 it not been for Captain Ghest, our skipper, a bright hand- 
 some man, I should have been knocked up. Did I tell you 
 
 Lr sent all my Sydney letters to B 's in Queensland. 
 
 They could not be returned in time to catch me, so H 
 S will bring them home. This was a nuisance. 
 
 %th May. A heavy but lazy roll; a warm moist heat, about 
 90 in cabin everybody limp. Passed the windward island 
 of the Navigator group stopped close alongside we were 
 boarded by dusky natives selling bananas. The islands are 
 wooded to the water's edge and intensely emerald in green. 
 
 Often as I did the " block" in Sydney, I stopped at the 
 Post Office, noting the throng under its fine stone portico. 
 The anxious faces grouped round the opening for " letters 
 to be called for" afforded plenty of scope for the imagina- 
 tion. The "new chum" with his batch of welcome letters 
 striding away with pleased smile; the unsuccessful man, 
 awaiting perhaps a father or a brother's help, wearied by 
 constant "none this mail;" the settler's wife anxious for 
 
Letters from Abroad. 127 
 
 * r _ . 1 -.,_, 1 __ r _ _ _ J , _ _._ 
 
 news from mother or loved sister at home. I fancied I 
 could in some way guess each one's business a smile, a 
 frown, a muttered curse, a half blush, gave a good criterion 
 of the inner thoughts, and I think I really felt how very dear 
 dear this endless chain of human hopes and fears must be, 
 extending from the mother country " home" to her daughter 
 "Colony." "It is difficult to over-estimate the emotions set 
 at work by the European mail, and half an hour spent under 
 the portico of a large Colonial Post Office should tell how 
 close and real are the ties between England and her pioneer 
 children." 
 
 $th May. Very muggy, close, and hot. I can tell you 
 it was hard work managing the Wax-works last night. 
 
 'The Chamber of Beauty consisted of Marie Antoinette, 
 a Nun, Peasant, Queen Elizabeth (very good), Ophelia, a 
 lady with golden hair below her knees, Grace Darling, &c. 
 The Chamber of Horrors, Ned Kelly, Richard Third, 
 Spotted Baby from Peru, The Ghost in Hamlet, &c., &c. 
 We opened up with the " Star-spangled Banner " and " Rule 
 Britannia" in Figure. Four tableaux. " Where are you 
 going to, my pretty maid?" " Smothering of the Princes in 
 the Tower," &c. But what took the audience most, " The 
 Babes in the Wood." We have five very pretty children on 
 board. We knocked up some scenery, and posed them as 
 two sleeping children, and three angels watching over, &c. 
 Then down went the curtain, and two HUGE men, both six 
 feet, were exhibited, dressed as babies, in drawers and night- 
 gowns, eating two huge buns. These were the "Real 
 Babies," and created lots of fun. The last tableaux. "Blue 
 
128 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Beard and his Wives." The ladies of the company stood 
 behind a sheet brought close to the neck. Blue Beard 
 stood in front, with his last wife kneeling and holding the 
 bloody keys the whole lighted with blue fire. Although I 
 had something to do with management, I must say the thing 
 went with a capital swing Mrs. Jarley, the Showman, being 
 very good. Lord and Lady Normanby were very pleased, 
 and paid the management no end of compliments. We have 
 generally arranged for concerts or dances to come off nearly 
 every night, and the voyage has been unusually pleasant 
 We steamed into Honolulu on Sunday, the nth May, 
 about 2.30 P.M., and the appearance of the island, with its 
 lava-stained hills reflecting the tropical sun, giving back 
 tints of orange, pink, yellow, red, brown, and drab, was more 
 than striking, the lower slopes of brilliant green, edged with 
 surf, and bounded by the deepest of blue seas, forming in 
 all a fascinating picture. Our run ashore was short, but we 
 managed to see a little. Some of the natives are very fine 
 men, and the women handsome. 
 
 The gambling on board is very considerable, but not 
 more than usual. The old steamer is daily getting lighter, 
 and every now and then she rolls heavily. This morning I 
 was standing in the bath finishing the towel part, when a 
 wave rushed through the port, and that, with the lurch, sent 
 me clean out of the bath, and I fell in a heap in the corner, 
 striking my head. I soon pulled myself together, but I still 
 feel the shock. To-day for the first time since starting I may 
 say my appetite has been hardly trustworthy, and I feel dull 
 and heavy. We had "Cox and Box" for the evening's enter- 
 
Letters from Abroad. 129 
 
 tainment. It was a grand success. The prologue (a 
 humorous rhyme on the events of the voyage) created a bit 
 of amusement; the reader (a rough diamond) I pushed into 
 my dress clothes : 
 
 R.M.S. A USTRALIA THEATRE ROYAL. 
 
 Lessee and Manager, . . Mr. H. B. Tucker. 
 Stage Manager, . . . Mr. B. C. Harriman. 
 Assistant Stage Manager, . . Mr. C. M. Crompton- Roberts. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 May 1 6, 1884. 
 
 COX AND BOX. 
 
 Triumviretta in One Act, by F. C. Buraand and Sir Arthur Sullivan. 
 
 James John Cox (a Journeyman Hatter\ . . Mr. MAcLACHLAN. 
 John James Box (a Journeyman Printer), . . Mr. T. P. ROYLE. 
 
 (Late of the Dampshire 
 
 " Rev. W. JERVOIS. 
 
 Serjeant Bouncer, \ Yeomanry, and with Mili- 
 tary reminiscences), 
 
 Accompanist, Miss C, REID. 
 
 To be preceded at 8.30 by 
 
 A PROLOGUE, 
 
 Written by Mr. J. S. M< ARTHUR. 
 
 To be delivered by Mr. J. GOUGH. 
 
 Excuse, dear friends, our venturous act, 
 And view our fiction as a fact. 
 Believe we give our "little all? 
 And don't be vexed because it's small. 
 The previous sights that you have seen 
 Will in your memories still be green j 
 Nor from Japan to fair Neuralia, 
 
130 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Has been such fun as on the Australia. 
 
 You'll long remember Mrs. Jarley, 
 
 And smile as you recall her parley, 
 
 Recalling, 'mid your cares and duty, 
 
 Some memories of the Room of Beauty ; 
 
 And how, within the Ruffian's Ring, 
 
 A Senator became a King! 
 
 Marie Antoinette, Ned Kelly, 
 
 And Bluebeard in the general melee. 
 
 If in this Prologue haps a bull, 
 
 Remember we've been toss'd to the full. 
 
 Our captain, as our host and Ghest t 
 
 Has, to amuse us, done his best, 
 
 And shown that Sports and Jollity 
 
 May oft be found upon the sea. 
 
 Here ladies raced each with potato, 
 
 And " Donald Dinnie " put the weight-oh ! 
 
 The cock-fights put some on their back, 
 
 And many others "got the Sack.' 1 '' 
 
 Whilst Tugs-of-War 'twixt weight and muscle 
 
 Resulted each in sturdy tussle. 
 
 The Ladies would not take the bother 
 
 To spoon about with one another, 
 
 Except a few who in the race 
 
 Displayed their usual skill and grace. 
 
 Their little chickens though were fain 
 
 To run for cake though not for grain. 
 
 And then the Captain got "A Nipper," 
 
 For every girl became a Skipper ; 
 
 And their hopes leant "upon a Reed " 
 
 Who did not fail in time of need. 
 
 The victor's prizes made of tin 
 
 Were giv'n away the saloon within, 
 
 Amidst the plaudits of the fair, 
 
 Who in full force were gathered there. 
 
Letters from A broad. 131 
 
 We'd swells and boobies hovering near, 
 
 But none on board I will aver ! 
 
 The sweepstakes were a great success. 
 
 If you'd believe the earnestness 
 
 Of those who lucky were and won, 
 
 You'd think they were the greatest fun. 
 
 Although we'd squalls above, you know 
 
 The squalls were sweeter far below ; 
 
 (We mean this as a compliment 
 
 To those who have so kindly lent 
 
 Their voices, and their aid have given, 
 
 To render the saloon a heaven). 
 
 A dance was held, and all must feel 
 
 The most appropriate was " a Reel ; " 
 
 But, ah ! too soon the hours fled, 
 
 Till, with regret, "good-night" was said. 
 
 But good things cannot last for ever, 
 
 And soon the best of friends must sever ; f 
 
 And soon we hope to have a frisk-oh. 
 
 Without the slightest chance of risk-oh ! 
 
 Upon the fair shores of Ameriky 
 
 (At the bad joke don't get hysteriky!) 
 
 We've spoken of the Captain, and 
 
 We now must praise his gallant band 
 
 Of Officers, who kindly tried 
 
 To spread amusement far and wide 
 
 With jest and quilp (we do not mean 
 
 That any one like Quilp was seen !) 
 
 Some members, too, formed a Committee, 
 
 In which were skilful hands and witty. 
 
 And often they have given us cause 
 
 To honour them with our applause. 
 
 They hope the last fun they present 
 
 Will send you all away content. 
 
 The little farce is Cox and Box, 
 
132 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Composed of jokes, and songs, and knocks. 
 
 Two angry gentlemen discover 
 
 Each has been fighting with his brother. 
 
 With various incidents the play 
 
 Amuses both the grave and gay. 
 
 The actors have worked hard for days, 
 
 And well deserve the highest praise. 
 
 And now my prologue 's nearly done ; 
 
 But first I must allude to one 
 
 By whose consent the play is played, 
 
 By whose consent the scenes are made 
 
 We all give thanks to Captain Ghest, 
 
 And hope his life may long be blest ; 
 
 And, if again we put to sea, 
 
 May we find captains good as he ! 
 
 To captain, officers, and crew 
 
 Our very hearty thanks are due ; 
 
 We give you all this parting greeting 
 
 And here's to our next merry meeting ! ! 
 
 The old ship rolls very heavily, but now none thinks of 
 it. We are expecting to reach San Francisco in about 
 twenty-four hours, so all are busy packing, &c. The 
 voyage of the Australia has been very pleasant and full 
 of "go." 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, &c. 
 
 WE had a jollification the last night on board the Australia 
 suppers and " sparkling," finishing up with " Auld Lang 
 
Letters from Abroad. 133 
 
 Syne," &c. Early next morning we passed the customs, 
 sent luggage to Palace Hotel by Express, and took tram 
 there ourselves; this is the cheapest and best way. It is 
 well to start from the ship with a little American money for 
 trams, which may be obtained of the barman. San 
 Francisco is a wonderful place a city of gigantic contrasts 
 the huge Palace Hotel and the horrid den of the " Heathen 
 Chinee," 32 feet below the level of the ground; magnificent 
 shops alongside a ten cent, show; rubbishy jewellery next 
 door to a store containing some of the most marvellous and 
 costly gold and silver work I have ever seen. The Chinese 
 quarter (40,000) is deeply curious, but hardly amusing. I shall 
 never forget going into the opium dens, filthy boxes under 
 the level of the city here the Celestials lie and smoke 
 themselves into deadly sleep; the Chinese Theatre with its 
 crowd of interested watchers the men separate from the 
 women the play goes on in different acts for six weeks or 
 more. We went behind the scenes, and the peculiar get-up, 
 the horrid din of the cymbals, the beating of the tom-tom, 
 made a hasty retreat desirable. We took wire-tram to Cliff 
 House, and were fortunate enough to see the celebrated 
 "sea lions" in great quantities in fact, the rocks were 
 covered some huge old fellows with thick manes must have 
 been 15 or 20 feet in length. Mr. M'Kay, the Pacific and 
 Burlington agent, 32 Montgomery Street, B. Q. & C. (Cham- 
 pion Baggage Smashers), will put all travellers up to sight- 
 seeing, and is a most useful man. The Golden Gates (the 
 narrow entrance to the Harbour) is a very beautiful picture. 
 
134 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Having spent two or three days in 'Frisco, we started at 3.30 
 p.m. for the Yo-semite Valley. A ponderous steam Ferry took 
 us to the Oakland Station, and soon we were settled in a 
 fairly comfortable sleeping-car, with Captain Ghest and one 
 or two other men from the Australia. We only carried 
 hand-bags and a rug the latter useless. (A light M'Intosh 
 may be useful for getting near the Falls). The baggage we 
 sent on to Ogden. We turned into bed shortly after ten, 
 and slept fairly well until 3.30 a.m., when we were " hurried 
 up" at Madera for breakfast. Madera is 182 miles from 
 'Frisco. 
 
 Soon after four we were all fixed in a comfortable coach 
 with strong wheels, solid leather springs, drawn by six 
 horses. At first the track lay over a low sandy plain, 
 undulating in places, sparsely timbered with Californian 
 oak. Every now and again we passed a Ranche (Farm- 
 house), or an occasional team of mules, with bells jingling 
 in the morning air. For miles and miles we drove 
 parallel to a wooden aqueduct or "flume," used for 
 floating timber .down from the Sierra Nevada. Upon 
 inquiry I found it extended for over fifty miles. Cali- 
 fornia is very rich in wheat, and this season especially 
 so ; the export will be enormous, for the rains have 
 fallen over nearly all parts. The sward is covered with 
 flowers of all kinds, and once or twice we saw a creep- 
 ing plant with a flower so peculiar that a man like 
 Oscar Wilde would go mad over its beauty. Picture a huge 
 corrugated convolvulus, pale lavender in colour, deepening 
 
Letters from Abroad. 135 
 
 in the centre to a dark purple, 9 inches across that perhaps 
 may give you some idea. Right and left large bushes of buck- 
 eye (a small tree with white flower, something like the wild 
 chestnut its perfume being like a mild stephanotis). Less 
 than a fortnight ago this very coach, with the same driver, 
 was "bailed up" and robbed by a gang of men in broad day- 
 light every mortal thing carried off dollars, studs, rings, 
 and watches. Two men stood on rising ground, close to 
 the coach, with double-barrelled guns covering the party, 
 whilst two others with revolvers cleared the lot. These 
 " cow boys " are still at large. We passed bunches of 
 poisoned oak a plant so deadly that during its seed-time 
 many by simply passing and inhaling the poison have been 
 so affected as to swell in every joint. We lunched at Coarse 
 Gold Gulch, a spot where a big rush was once made, and no 
 less than 1,000,000 dollars worth of gold was taken out 
 from a very small space of earth. On and on through 
 beautiful glades of black oak, across shallow fords, jolting 
 and jumping, the road itself only a shade better than 
 those in New Zealand past fir trees, with cones from 9 to 
 12 inches in length, towering 150 to 250 feet into the sky. 
 After another hour's travelling, the incline became steeper, 
 the track worse, the pace a walk, and the ascent of the 
 Sierra Nevada commenced. 
 
 The road wound in and out through rich valleys of pale 
 green undergrowth, dotted with groups of graceful firs. The 
 sun was bright, the air keen, but the roads, owing to recent 
 rains, were heavy and sticky. Higher and higher, the track 
 
136 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 leading through lofty pine forests, every now and then we 
 could see the summit, partially covered in cloud. It was 
 tedious work, but the views were most beautiful ; many of 
 the pine trees stood out brown and bare, the branches 
 enveloped with yellow green moss, giving a vivid contrast to 
 the dull colour of the darker firs. Still upwards, and just 
 about dusk we felt the crisp air from the snow-covered 
 mountains. The road soon 'became nearly impassable, 
 the coach was either stationary, or groaning and creaking 
 dismally, the poor horses steaming and pulling, the driver 
 swearing and cracking his whip. As evening drew on the 
 forest became quite dense, the road worse, and all had 
 visions of being landed for the night without food, and, what 
 was worse, without any whisky between us. At a quarter 
 to eight we made our last change of horses, lighted our 
 lamps, warmed our hands, and finally drove in the dark to 
 Clark's Hotel, where we arrived at 9.30 a.m., having been over 
 seventeen hours in the coach doing seventy-five miles, with 
 relays of no less than thirty-six horses. A warm over a 
 cheerful wood-fire, a supper, and a welcome -glass of toddy, 
 pulled us together; soon sleep, gentle sleep, came o'er us. 
 
 Up at five o'clock, a keen frosty air rushed into the room 
 as I opened my window, the water being cold enough 
 to make my fingers tingle. Our coach for the Yo-semite 
 was not quite so easy as that of the preceding day, never- 
 theless, at the order " all aboard," we managed to tumble 
 together. For the first hour the track lay alongside a rapid 
 river, with trunks of trees dashed here and there, or stranded 
 
Letters from Abroad. 137 
 
 beside the road " as the tree falls, so it lies," for no man 
 troubles to remove fallen timber here. Gradually we made 
 our way upwards, the horses dragging the heavy coach 
 through a regular slough of thick clinging mud, frequently 
 up to the axle-tree. In fine weather the track may be good 
 enough, but just now it was simply awful ; in passing one 
 horrid place we could see, wedged into the rocks below, 
 the dead body of a coach-horse, the bay-coloured skin quite 
 distinct in the sunlight. The accident only happened a short 
 time back, but fortunately none of the passengers were 
 injured. On, slowly on, at something under three miles 
 an hour, through groves of lofty pines, with here and there 
 a group of cinnamon-coloured firs, their long branches 
 feathered with bright yellow-green lichen, affording a curious 
 and beautiful contrast to the dark forest. The bright-eyed 
 gray squirrels gave life to the scene. Fortunately we carried 
 spades, for about mid-day the first coach stuck up nothing 
 could move it, so it was literally dug out. I ought to 
 mention the trifling fact that a trace and splinter-bar were 
 also smashed. We should have been totally without food 
 had not one of the passengers luckily brought a hamper with 
 him from 'Frisco, and, with a traveller's liberality, divided it. 
 The drive was most tiresome and tedious. We arrived at 
 Bernard's Hotel at 5.30, having taken the whole day (of 
 twelve hours) doing twenty-four miles. 
 
138 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 YO-SEMITE VALLEY. 
 
 The only alloy to me when I see such grand sights as the 
 Yo-semite Valley is the fact that I cannot have all those I 
 care for round me to enjoy the wonders of nature, but as 
 that may not be, I will do my best to describe this matchless 
 place, and only wish I had not used such powerful language 
 in other places, for now I really require many adjectives and 
 words I used long ago. I want you first to imagine an 
 irregular valley some fifteen miles in length, and about a 
 mile or less in width ; the base a perfectly flat-lying plateau 
 between two enormous masses of rock some 4,000 feet high, 
 the bright green turf dotted with every variety of tree. The 
 waterfalls in this valley are higher and larger than any I 
 have ever seen or imagined. Just now we are seeing them 
 at their very best, for the melting snow and late rains have 
 filled the rivers. The Yo-semite Fall itself thunders down 
 2,634 feet into the valley below, causing a rumble like the 
 roar of distant artillery, forming, with the Nevada Falls, the 
 rapid Merced River. 
 
 Bernard's Hotel is comfortable, and our party have pos- 
 session of the " Cottage." Last night the rats had posses- 
 sion of our boots, and every bit of kid was removed. The 
 general sitting-room, with its cheerful log-fire, is built round 
 a huge tree some seven feet in diameter, 175 in height; it is 
 a white cedar, and very rare. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 139 
 
 MIRROR LAKE AND NEVADA FALLS. 
 
 On the day following we started at 7.30 for Mirror Lake 
 a party of eleven. The morning was simply perfection. 
 Our drive to the end of the valley, where the Mirror Lake 
 rests, took us through groves of maple, sugar pine, firs, and 
 pines. Every now and then we noticed the dogwood tree, 
 or rather bush, laden with a pale-green flower, something 
 like a fully-opened Christmas rose ; past little islands covered 
 with huge firs, shining like burnished copper in the morning 
 sun, and surrounded by a seething mass of yellow foam. 
 We alighted and walked round the border of this perfectly 
 placid lake ; no wind to ruffle its surface. The truly mar- 
 vellous effect of the reflection cannot be put in words ; each 
 leaf and rock, each mountain and waterfall mirrored in its 
 depths. The Half Dome, with its bare scalp, stood 3,568 
 feet above us, and again beneath us, in the water, Cloud's 
 Rest, with its snow-capped top miles away, yet just at our 
 feet. A mare and foal grazing on the bank were truly 
 photographed in colour and form, adding something of 
 warmth to the picture. Killarney, Lucerne, Loch Katrine, 
 are not forgotten, but their waters never had the oppor- 
 tunity of reflecting such gigantic masses or such lofty trees 
 as this tiny lake at the far end of the Yo-semite Valley. A 
 short drive back brought us to the point where horses met 
 us for the ascent of the Nevada Falls. Another party of 
 
140 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 some dozen or more joined us. Such a motley turn out I 
 never witnessed. All the animals had the huge Mexican 
 saddle, nearly all more or less worn out, with wooden 
 stirrups and high pommels. Everybody seemed to be on 
 the wrong beast fat men on lean horses, tall men on ponies, 
 short chubby men on huge bony animals, ladies on mules, 
 every variety of hat from the smoke-stack to the pork-pie, 
 every kind of face from the hatchet-faced Yankee to the 
 bonnie maiden of "bashful eighteen." After a long, slow, 
 single-file clamber and many a rest, we reached a wooden 
 house at the foot of the Nevada Falls; hardly off our horses 
 when away they rushed to the stables without a word from 
 any one. Some of the party made for the top, but the heat 
 was rather against that, so two or three of us, myself among 
 the number, scrambled in, over, and between huge granite 
 boulders to the base of this grand fall. Although we got 
 very wet, nobody cared; the fierce rush of the water, the 
 bright morning sun, the crisp air, the rich smell of pine 
 trees, made all feel careless of trouble or slight annoyances. 
 The enormous mass of granite over which this rush of water 
 dashes is crescent-shaped, and continues far beyond the 
 actual space taken up by the fall, and has many tiny cascades 
 falling from the same height as the main body ; these are 
 blown into clouds of spray long before they reach the bottom, 
 forming rainbows of every size. From the position we took 
 the long branches of the sombre pines formed a green fringe 
 to this cream-coloured fall. The main fall is eighty feet wide 
 at the top, eight feet thick, and drops in one rush 700 feet 
 
Letters from Abroad. 141 
 
 into a rocky basin beneath. You cannot get very near, for 
 the dense spray forms a misty vapour, being carried by the 
 wind for a long distance. I lugged and tugged a merry 
 little Yankee girl through holes and over slippery rocks, and 
 both were pretty well tired, and when we arrived at the 
 chalet we were ready and willing for luncheon. After lunch 
 I strolled to the head of the Vernal Falls. Here nature has 
 formed a complete buttress of granite CLOSE to where the 
 rush of water takes its final leap of 350 feet. You can look 
 over into the valley beneath and trace the winding river 
 1,200 feet below, the walls of rock forming a complete amphi- 
 theatre. I christened my brute " Slippery Jack," for every 
 now and then he gave a nasty slip, and not being anxious 
 to arrive before the others, I got off and walked, feeling 
 pleased upon reaching the bottom. Here a dozen or more 
 started off into a gallop. Oh, dear! such a gallop. Helter- 
 skelter along the dirty road, some holding on by the pommel, 
 others holding on to hats. One mule got rid of his rider, 
 and kicked away in the most happy manner, finally kick- 
 ing himself clear of his saddle. The queer figures some 
 of the riders cut is quite beyond me, and fit only for Mark 
 Twain. Ladies can do this trip very well indeed, for the 
 path is fairly good only dangerous in one or two places. 
 Cost of carriage and horse for each person for the whole 
 day, 4 dollars 80 cents, or about i . 
 
 I am not quite certain whether I gave you to understand 
 that the bottom of this marvellous valley is 4,060 feet above 
 the level of the sea, consequently the average height of these 
 
142 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 nearly, and in some cases, quite, perpendicular cliffs, is over 
 7,000 feet. On Monday we selected horses in order to 
 make Glacier Point, but luckily a misty rain came on in 
 time to stay our starting and avoid the great danger of 
 being out on the " trail" in a fqg. We hired a carriage, 
 and drove from our " cottage" to the Cascade end of the 
 Valley. The first object of interest we passed was the 
 Yo-semite Falls (the name is Indian, and means Great Grizzly 
 Bear). This fall is supposed to be the highest fall of any 
 magnitude in the world 2,634 feet in all. The first drop 
 of 1,600 feet dashes into a cavern 30 yards deep by 20 
 wide, and immediately on with a roar like thunder for 
 another mad drop of 534 feet, and finally rushes over 500 
 feet into the valley below. Just now the volume of water 
 is very heavy, for the powerful sun is rapidly melting the 
 miles and miles of snow-fields, and that, coupled with the 
 late rain, creates so big a body of water that more than 
 three-fourths of a mile away the window panes rattle again. 
 We drove quietly onward through an emerald plain, dotted 
 with colour, bright with baby pine trees, whose tender 
 shoots are shielded from the sun by giant brothers towering 
 150 feet above. This park-like grove is level as an English 
 lawn, and full of curious wild flowers the most conspicuous 
 being the yellow violet, the carmine snow-plant, the scarlet 
 ragged-robin, the blue lupen, and long armed clematis, 
 pushing their young life through a rich alluvial soil. I 
 cannot tell you the names of half the fine timber one sees 
 here the maple, the sugar pine, the silver fir. the live oak, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 143 
 
 the red-barked manganista, the tree laurel, and dozens of 
 others are made into most artistic cabinets by A. Sinning, a 
 clever German, and although at first the price appears high, 
 as a work of art they are cheap. Nearly every tree has its 
 merry little squirrel, or perhaps the red-capped woodpecker 
 calls attention to its industry, for many and many a tree is 
 simply a series of perforations caused by its sharp and 
 determined beak. Gaudy butterflies chase each other in 
 the warm sunlight, while from every crag pours a network 
 of silver chains, like fine Norwegian filigree work. Past 
 the pointed Sentinel, 3,100 feet above; under the frowning 
 cliffs called by the Indians, Pom-pom-pa-sus, or Three 
 Brothers, 3,900 feet in height, and next, " El Capitan," " the 
 Monarch of the Glen," stands out in bold relief, rising 3,300 
 feet in one huge mass of perpendicular rock. As we skirted 
 its base, one and a quarter miles in length, we could see 
 huge boulders covering the ground many split in half by 
 the terrific fall from the height above. A little farther, in a 
 deep dark recess, Lung-oo-too-koo-ya (tall and slender), but 
 generally known as the Widow's Tears, from the fact that 
 the water dries up in a month or six weeks after the com- 
 mencement of the thaw, falls in graceful folds some 3,300 
 feet. Just now it is very beautiful, but the snow will soon 
 melt, and this fine fall will become a tiny thread. Here and 
 there wigwams inhabited by the dirty but picturesque Digger 
 Indian. Very soon the valley widens, and the Merced 
 moves swiftly but smoothly along, when quite abruptly the 
 huge cliffs close in, the valley becomes a chasm, the dark river 
 
144 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 one seething mass of white foam, the creamy water one 
 turbulent rush, charging over blocks of granite, dead pine 
 trees, hurrying smaller timber round and round in rapid 
 eddies. For over a mile the Merced is no longer a river, 
 but one wild cataract. Suddenly a sharp curve terminates 
 the valley, and the Merced disappears from view, making 
 the other end of this incomparable valley a striking 
 contrast to the placid Mirror Lake. Towards noon the rain 
 came steadily down, so we took refuge in a partly-finished 
 cottage, and enjoyed the contents of a picnic basket, and, 
 with a fragrant weed, admired the beauties of the 
 " Cascade," a broad and prettily forked body of water that 
 anywhere else would call for rapture. Even the drive back 
 beneath the dripping trees meant enjoyment, for everything 
 was so fresh the odour of the pine trees so pleasant, the 
 gloss on the young leaves so bright, and soon even the 
 slightest trace of discomfort was quite forgotten, as the 
 Bridal Veil Fall literally burst into view. This beautiful, 
 and, one may safely say, unrivalled fall has a clear drop of 
 900 feet, and although the height is small compared with 
 others in Yo-semite, its charming outline entitles it to be 
 called the " Gem of the Valley." We were fortunate in 
 seeing its creamy glory influenced by a breeze, the edges 
 falling in irregular waves on the moss-covered boulders 
 below as the sun shone through the volume of mist, fairy 
 rainbows added to the effect. The golden-tinted Cathedral 
 Spires, 2,660 feet in height, stood out between the sombre 
 pines in the distance the snow-covered "Clouds' Rest," 
 
Letters from Abroad. 145 
 
 6,150, stands, a stately guardian over the placid Mirror 
 Lake. 
 
 We had our photographs taken, but I fear all in the 
 group will not come out well, for many were on the broad 
 grin, and for my own part I know I must have worn three 
 distinct expressions during the operation. I rather fancy 
 myself the culprit. The photographs by Fiske are good, 
 and Miss Abbie, the daughter of the landlord, gave us a lot 
 of information in a most pleasant way. The best time to 
 see the Yo-semite may be fixed from May the 2oth to 
 June 2oth, or from September ist to October ist. You 
 may think I have somewhat overdrawn my pictures, but 
 such is far from the fact. I have seen the best of Switzer- 
 land, Norway, Apennines, Canada, New Zealand, but for 
 massive grandeur the Yo-semite Valley bears the palm, and 
 although the discomfort was real, the return was worth all 
 the cost and annoyance. 
 
 With regret we said good-bye to the valley and its kindly 
 inmates, and started at 5.30 a.m. in a keen frosty air, that, 
 with the misty atmosphere, made ulsters useful, but when 
 we reached Inspiration Point the sun was holding possession ; 
 and in remembering our farewell to this charming spot, the 
 beautiful "Cascade," rich in the most vivid of opal tints, 
 will be the final memory. The return journey was a trifle 
 better than going, but to any one not absolutely strong the 
 jolting and bucking was trying and back-aching. We 
 reached Clarke's about two, where we gained the pleasant 
 information that four men would have to go on straight, 
 
 10 
 
146 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 and at once to Merced, the thirteen remaining to be 
 crammed into a through coach starting at five next morning. 
 We made no end of a row, but all to no purpose. The 
 proprietors are humbugs, and we told them so. At first 
 they were plausible, then independent. They know they 
 have you in their power. In future I would go via Merced, 
 avoiding the long stage and Clarke's Hotel like poison. 
 Four elected to go via Merced, where they arrived at mid- 
 night, having travelled in a coach over nineteen hours, with 
 only one rest of half-an-hour. The remainder of the party 
 drove in the afternoon to Mariposa Grove to see the " Big 
 Trees," and nothing will ever efface from my memory this 
 short but truly horrid drive. The poor horses dragged and 
 tugged the coach over a track nothing less than one con- 
 tinuous bog, rutty and uneven talking was more than 
 difficult, and smoking simply dangerous thank goodness it 
 was a short stage of only seven miles. We had two coaches, 
 consequently only a couple in each seat, therefore we were 
 tossed, bumped, bucked, bruised, and generally annoyed ; 
 and to cap the lot, we could not drive through the celebrated 
 Tree, for it was filled up with frozen snow, but, thank good- 
 ness, we saw numbers of fine trees, many nearly 300 feet in 
 height. We spent some time under the " Grizzly Giant." 
 This gigantic specimen of " Sequoia Gigantea," or Welling- 
 tonia, is a species of cedar measuring 99 feet in circum- 
 ference, with a diameter fairly measured at 33 feet. This 
 aged gentleman stretches out his first arm 80 feet from the 
 ground, and this alone measures 6 feet through. We joined 
 
Letters from Abroad. 147 
 
 hands, the arms being stretched to the fullest extent, and 
 at 5 feet from the ground it took over fifteen men to span 
 it. Two or three specialists have used the ordinary calcula- 
 tions in such cases, and they give 6,000 years as the lowest 
 computation of its age. What a grand thing it would be 
 for Conservatives if old Gladstone took a freak into his head 
 to fell this tawny giant, and relieve England of his presence 
 until the work was completed. 
 
 The return journey to Clarke's was a simple repetition of 
 groans, and more frequently a British exclamation told how 
 some long-suffering head had come into contact with the 
 roof. This short stage was too bad for words, worse than 
 any of our New Zealand experiences. The horses were 
 well-bred, strong, and full of pluck. 
 
 On the bright frosty morning of May 2Wi the thirteen 
 unfortunates met at the door of Clarke's about 5.30. After 
 some considerable delay, and by no means gracious 
 language, we jammed ourselves into the coach the word 
 jam is hardly strong enough to convey how crushed and 
 close we were. The men who run these coaches are not 
 scrupulous, and I should avoid placing myself in the hands 
 of such dollar-scraping rascals. The pain and discomfort 
 was next to unbearable, but "every cloud has a silver lining," 
 and the great weight in the coach made the jolting and 
 tossing somewhat less a beautiful day with a warm sun 
 made even the bruised ones to rejoice. On the far side of 
 the Sierra Nevada the roads were dry, the pace good, but 
 here and there the dust gave us a new experience. To 
 
148 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 add to our misery, a fat old Jew man kept bumming or 
 humming in a thick greasy voice the most dismal of airs, 
 and this he continued for hours. We did our best to be 
 jolly, and many old heirlooms in the form of long-forgotten 
 tales found their way to the surface. We reached Madera 
 at 9.15, after fourteen hours' hard travelling. Slept the 
 night in a railway car drawn up on a siding, and at two 
 o'clock p.m. next day we reached Sacramento. 
 
 SACRAMENTO 
 
 is the capital of California, and semi-Mexican in appear- 
 ance and customs. It is the oldest city of the territory, 
 with a population of 42,000. Government House is a 
 really fine building, but everything about the city has a 
 "sleepy hollow" sort of look. Here we all enjoyed the 
 much-needed luxury of a hot bath. The proprietor of the 
 Station Buffet beguiled us into taking a large picnic basket 
 for the long railway journey to Ogden. Although we 
 regularly enjoyed the fun of having our breakfast and 
 supper in the car, it was a nuisance and quite unnecessary 
 all should carry a full whisky flask. 
 
 OGDEN, SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 The resources of science and civilisation have of recent 
 years been wonderfully utilised in perfecting our means of 
 travel. Health, comfort, and speed have been studied with 
 such advantage that even the latest of generations which 
 
Letters from Abroad. 149 
 
 have passed away would be filled with astonishment could 
 they look in upon us now. The passage from Liverpool to 
 New York has been accomplished in less than seven days 
 by the Oregon. Life is so short that anything that sensibly 
 reduces the time spent in locomotion is a matter of great 
 importance. But while we may congratulate ourselves on 
 the unparalleled progress in the directions indicated, I doubt 
 very much whether the measures for the real safety of pas- 
 sengers have kept pace with the development of speed and 
 comfort. This is remarkably apparent in the Rio Grande 
 Railway, a new line reaching from Ogden to Denver, a dis- 
 tance of 771 miles. The line is three-feet gauge, and 
 fastened to the sleepers in the most rough-and-ready 
 manner. I can only say, more dangerous-looking travel- 
 ling I never beheld. Although the water-courses are subject 
 to periodical rushes of snow-water, the bridges are of the 
 flimsiest, and "wash-outs" are of constant, or rather frequent, 
 occurrence. I have travelled over lines in a great many 
 countries, but have never yet met with so shoddy and badly- 
 managed a railway. In one or two places the scenery is 
 fine and grand, especially in the Black Canon and Royal 
 Gorge, but not worth the risk of delay, or worse. (As I am 
 
 copying this from my rough notes, I find from Mr. C 
 
 the boiler of the engine in the train following us burst in 
 atoms ; nobody killed, but two men injured.) The officers 
 of the line are, to say the least of it, indifferent. The care- 
 taker of the Pullman car might generally be found sprawling 
 at length in the most comfortable seat in the carriage. As 
 
150 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 for taking the word of a railway agent in America, the thing 
 would be ridiculous, for they are the most plausible liars it 
 has been my luck to meet. The only way to travel without 
 expense or bother is to do as the Yankees do sleep in your 
 day shirts and trousers, leave off shaving, and let washing be 
 a promise. This won't do for Englishmen; but, at the 
 same time, I do advise everyone to travel with one small 
 hand-bag, and that one bag to contain ALL required for the 
 overland trip to New York from the Pacific. Porters are 
 hard to procure, and moving luggage expensive. Book 
 through all heavy luggage to destination. One old gentle- 
 man we met at Salt Lake City told us that in travelling 
 over the Rio Grande Line he always carried " his gun, his 
 pole (fishing-rod), and a good big hamper, for," said he, 
 " we generally have real good long rests." 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 Metropolitan Hotel cheap, clean, and comfortable. The 
 city itself is fairly well planned, but by no .means finished. 
 The inhabitants seem happy, but the women are devoid of 
 good looks. The Temple is a marvellous place for sound, 
 and will hold 10,000 people, and you can hear a pin drop 
 on the carpet from the extreme end. This "Rocky Moun- 
 tain Zion " is something like an English market town. 
 
 We left Salt Lake City at 9.30 on Sunday; had a very 
 good view of Salt Lake itself from the cars. The water is very 
 strong, and three buckets of it will make one bucket of salt. 
 

 Letters from Abroad. 151 
 
 The length is abouty 80 miles. Beyond the city the track 
 lies through a fertile plain, from whence the broken crests of 
 the Wasatch Mountains rise abruptly, just now covered a 
 third of the way down with snow. Near the centre of Salt 
 Lake Basin we passed the fresh water Utah Lake, and I am 
 told it is literally swarming with fish. Near at hand deer 
 and bear can be met with. Proceeding parallel to the River 
 Jordan a low divide is reached, and Utah Valley is entered 
 full of comfortable-/<?0&>/- homes and well tilled farms. We 
 lunched at Provo, and thoroughly enjoyed a nice clean meal, 
 the pastry being simply delicious. On and on until we arrived 
 at Castle Gate, where huge rocks in places only twenty feet 
 thick, just like some old castle tower, rise 500 feet in height, 
 standing out in bold relief, and nearly barring the narrow 
 defile. Next morning I awoke with a chilly feeling, and found 
 we had been stuck up in the water for five hours. Soon after 
 we pushed on, but only to find ourselves really barred, this 
 time by a serious " wash-out" at a bridge. A large gap had 
 been forced away between the buttresses and the bank ; the 
 rush of water through the opening was tremendous. Here 
 we stuck all day with nothing to eat and only cold water to 
 drink. We called the wretched place Starvation Flat We 
 only had an egg and salt; no bread for 27 hours. One 
 sporting man shot a rabbit, and after cooking it over a wood 
 fire, polished it off with the guard's assistance and the addi- 
 tional help of a lady and child. The man was a good shot 
 with a revolver, and I saw him kill a rabbit running with 
 four shots. 
 
152 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 They could not mend the line fit for the engine to pass, so 
 we waited for the down train, and walked with our small bags, 
 &c., over a wretchedly ricketty bridge, everything from our 
 train being transhipped, and, of course, vice versa. After a 
 slow, cautious drive, we reached Cimarron, and made the 
 most of a very poor meal. Here a wire informed the guard 
 that the line ahead was in a dangerous state, so we slept 
 there for the night and did not start for the Black Canon 
 of the Cimarron until twelve next day, now being 37 hours 
 late. In one place I saw the remains of a freight train 
 three waggons lying in a confused heap in the river-bed ; 
 when this accident happened the driver and stoker were 
 both killed. The Black Canon was a grand and wild sight, 
 the swollen river, a tumbled mass of dark-brown water, 
 rilling the whole of the narrow channel except the part 
 raised up with rubble for the metals. Frequently we were 
 covered with spray from the small falls, for our party stood 
 on the back of the Pullman. The rocks are very rugged, 
 and appear to be crumbling away; their height about double 
 the Clifton Rocks. We ran for miles within a foot or so of 
 the River Gunnison, and expected a wash-out every minute. 
 After some anxiety we reached Sargent. Here, although 
 very hungry, the food was left, being high and unwholesome. 
 Soon we were pushing slowly up the Marshall Pass, the 
 metals running 10,858 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 cutting clean through the Rocky Mountains. This, I believe, 
 is the highest railway in the world. In less than a quarter 
 of an hour after commencing the ascent, we ran into an 
 
Letters from Abroad. 153 
 
 avalanche of mud and rock that had just fallen from the top. 
 Passengers and officials all set to work removing the debris, 
 and once again we resumed our slow, cautious, but by no 
 means monotonous progress. Still upwards, ^, ^-, through 
 enormous snow- sheds, and winding about in the most 
 wonderful manner. In advancing the last half mile it 
 took seven miles of metal, and just three-quarters of an 
 hour to do it in. At last, we made the summit, and 
 here all got out for a stretch. This spot is called the 
 Great Continental Divide the rivers flow east to the 
 Atlantic and west to the Pacific. A more wild, desolate 
 spot I have never looked upon snow-covered hills in every 
 direction, and apparently close at hand is seen Mount 
 Ouray, 14,043 feet; while whole forests of leafless firs, killed 
 by accidental fires, added yet another uncanny element to 
 this most dismal but fascinating scene. 
 
 Highest and Greatest Mountains in the World. 
 
 Feet 
 NAME. COUNTRY. High. Miles. 
 
 Mt. Everest (Himalayas) Thibet 29,002 $% 
 
 Sorato, the highest in America Bolivia 21,284 4 
 
 Illimani Bolivia 21,145 4 
 
 Chimborazo Ecuador 21,422 4^ 
 
 Hindoo-Koosh Afghanistan 20,600 3^ 
 
 Demavend, highest of Elburz Mts Persia 20,000 3^ 
 
 Cotopaxi, highest volcano in world Ecuador *9496 3% 
 
 Antisana Ecuador 19,150 3^ 
 
 St. Elias, highest in North America. Alaska 17,850 3^ 
 
 Popocatapetl, volcano Mexico I7.54O Z 1 A 
 
 Mt. Roa, highest in Oceanica Hawaii 16,000 3 
 
 Mt. Brown, highest peak of Rocky Mts. ..Brit. America.... 15, 900 3 
 
154 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Feet. 
 NAME. COUNTRY. High. Miles. 
 
 Mont Blanc, highest in Europe, Alps Savoy 15,732 3 
 
 Mt. Rosa, next highest peak of Alps Savoy., 15,150 2% 
 
 Limit of perpetual snow at the Equator 15,207 2-% 
 
 Pichinca Ecuador 15,924 3 
 
 Mt. Whitney California 14,887 2% 
 
 Mt. Fairweather Alaska 14,500 2% 
 
 Mt. Shasta California 14,442 2% 
 
 Mt. Ranier Wash.Territ'y....i4,444 2% 
 
 Long's Peak, Rocky Mountains Colorado 14,271 2% 
 
 Mt. Ararat Armenia 14,320 2% 
 
 Pike's Peak Colorado 14,216 2% 
 
 Mt. Ophir Sumatra 13,800 2ji 
 
 Fremont's Peak, Rocky Mountains Wyoming I 357 2 H 
 
 Mt. St. Helens Wash.Territ'y.... 13,400 2% 
 
 Peak of Teneriffe Canaries 12,182 2% 
 
 Miltzin, highest of Atlas Mountains Morocco 11,500 2 
 
 Mt. Hood Oregon 11,225 2 
 
 Mt. Lebanon Syria IO ,533 2 
 
 Mt. Perda, highest of Pyrenees France 10,950 2 
 
 Mt. JEtna., volcano Sicily 10,835 2 
 
 Monte Corno, highest of Apennines Naples 9>5 2 3 1 H 
 
 Sneehattan, highest Dovrefield Mts Norway. 8,115 * 1 A 
 
 Pindus, highest in Greece 7,677 l% 
 
 Mount Sinai Arabia 6,541 i# 
 
 Black Mountain, highest in N. Carolina 6,760 i# 
 
 Mt Washing, highest White Mts N. Hampshire... 6,285 l# 
 
 Mt. Marcy, highest in New York 5,42 I 
 
 Mt. Hecla, volcano Iceland 5> IO 4 I 
 
 Ben Nevis, highest in Great Britain Scotland 4,406 "fa 
 
 Mansfield, highest in Green Mts Vermont 4,280 ^ 
 
 Peaks of Otter Virginia 4,260 ^ 
 
 Mt. Vesuvius Naples 4*253 "% 
 
 Round Top, highest of Catskill Mts New York 3,804 % 
 
 Now and then we crossed spider-like bridges, look- 
 ing so frail, that never again will I say anything against 
 
Letters from Abroad. 155 
 
 the stability of the Cornish viaducts. The only habi- 
 tations one sees are a few log huts. My latin is a 
 thing of the past, but the line " Facilis decensus 
 averni" is very applicable to our descent, for we glided 
 easily and rapidly to the plains below; but nothing, 
 alas ! in the shape of food was to be had. Soon the sun 
 went down, leaving that soft, curious light we have so often 
 mentioned the snowy Rockies standing out in the fore- 
 ground. As darkness came over us the driver tried to 
 make up for the lost time, and about ten o'clock we thun- 
 dered through the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas. The 
 moon was very bright and well up in the heavens we all 
 stood on the tail-end of the Pullman (the last carriage) 
 holding on like grim death for the train swayed in an 
 alarming manner as we were whisked round corners. The 
 view was really grand I may say awful the Gorge very 
 narrow, black, and lofty; the swollen river dashing over 
 every obstacle and splashing the train with spray. In some 
 places the chasm was so close that twenty feet would take 
 in both torrent and line. Straight up above, some 700 to 
 1,200 feet, the black mountains glittered with feldspar, as 
 every now and then the moon caught the crags. It was a 
 sensation ride for a lump of rock, a metal out of place, 
 and nothing could have saved the train. 
 
 We turned in at eleven, having passed the worst place in 
 the defile. As I write I can plainly see this wild pass so 
 black and dreadful. I seemed to have hardly gone to sleep 
 when the wretched black porter dug me in the ribs and 
 
156 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 said, "four o'clock ; get up : " and, after a final struggle for a 
 
 wash, L and I took our favourite stand on the back of the 
 
 car, smoking and admiring the broad level sweep of rich green 
 land. In the distance, our old friends, the Rockies. Upon 
 reaching Denver, a charming little town of 58,000 inhabit- 
 ants, we made for the Windsor Hotel a large comfortable 
 building, much larger and better than any hotel in Bristol 
 and the charges were fairly reasonable. Here we made a raid 
 on the Turkish Bath, and enjoyed for the first time for a 
 week the luxury of cleanliness. Denver has a superb Opera 
 House a fine brick building pointed with freestone. This 
 house can take rank with any of the first London Theatres. 
 This is a thriving and rapidly growing city. Here one sees 
 no end of the " Rocky Mountain Elevator" viz., the donkey 
 in all shapes and sizes he carries large burdens to the out- 
 lying districts. We left Denver, with some regret, at 9.25 
 p.m., and found the Pullman palace-cars of the Chicago, 
 Burlington, and Quincy Railway magnificent specimens of 
 railway work complete in every way, and two feet wider 
 than those on the wretched Denver and Rio Grande. The 
 distance to Chicago is 1052 miles we performed the 
 journey in absolute comfort in fact, the railway journeys in 
 the States are made with as much ease as it is possible to 
 conceive; excepting, of course, the Rio Grande, and that 
 cannot be too much condemned. The drivers of the engine 
 of this horrid little line get as much as 37 dollars a-week, 
 and that, with perquisites, is equal to ^10 English money. 
 The driver himself will tell you he does his best, but 
 
Letters from Abroad. 157 
 
 virtually carries accident in his hand. The track is fre- 
 quently covered with rock or rubbish ; and no true Govern- 
 ment inspector should ever have passed as sound or safe 
 such a villanous fraud. 
 
 To CHICAGO. 
 
 From Denver to Chicago everything went " merry as a 
 marriage bell ! " The Pullman palace-cars of the Chicago, 
 Burlington, and Quincy Railway are really magnificent 
 the wood is of the finest, the cabinet and upholstery work is 
 simply perfect in fact, all over America, the carpenter, 
 joiner, and cabinetmakers turn out good, solid, and tasteful 
 effects, and with little of that hideous varnish so much in 
 vogue in England. The interior of a Pullman palace-car 
 is never disfigured by a single advertisement. The dining- 
 car is quite distinct from the Pullman sleeping-car; and, as 
 far as I could judge, would never, under any circumstances, 
 be used as a sleeper. My first experience of a really good 
 American dining-car was VERY pleasant, especially after our 
 genuine discomfort on the Rio Grande. The dinner was 
 perfect even in New York I have taken worse meals. At 
 the far end of the car the designer has placed the kitchen, 
 carefully arranged, so that no smell of cooking should reach 
 the passengers. The car has six small tables a-side, each 
 table capable of holding four in comfort. The cooking all 
 that could be desired, the waiting more than good, and 
 the food various. Avoid wines, and stick to lager beer 
 
158 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Milwaukee being, to my mind, the best stick to it ; leave 
 claret, &c., &c., quite alone. I hope I may long remember 
 my first dinner in an American dining-car from a really 
 capital menu we selected broiled fish, steak and mushrooms, 
 vegetables, and finished with a strawberry ice. The waiter 
 was a humorous black man, with a very large mouth, and 
 marvellous set of teeth, muchly ornamented with gold 
 such ornamentation being evidently the work of a dental 
 artist; his huge mouth and pug-dog eyes gave a laugh 
 perfectly inimitable; his easy manner and skilful way of 
 throwing up a plate and catching it again ; his snow-white 
 jacket, huge gold chain, stem-winder watch, large oblong 
 stone ring, hair shaved to the skin, grand glossy complexion, 
 and happy manner will long remain a memory. The nap- 
 kins and table-linen simply spotless. The crafty little 
 dodges for holding salt, pepper, sugar, &c., most ingenious 
 looking like tiny cabinets between the car windows. A 
 large item in maintaining a sleeper-car is its washing bill; 
 and from some paper I gathered the following figures: 
 The Pullman Coy.'s entire outfit includes 50,000 sheets, 
 46,000 pillow-slips, 1 3,000 blankets, 16,000 hand-towels, and 
 6,000 roller-towels. A car is entirely emptied and cleaned 
 as soon as it reaches its destination; the linen is sent 
 straight to the laundry; the number of table-cloths and 
 napkins must, of course, be many more, pro rata. All I 
 can say is this everything is of the cleanest and best, the 
 sheets are good, the blankets simply superb. 
 The average cost, per day and night, of a Pullman sleeper 
 
Letters from Abroad. 159 
 
 is one dollar and a-half ; or, say 6s. It is usual to give the 
 nigger a quarter dollar each night, but don't, by any chance, 
 offer the conductor a tip. The usual length of an American 
 car is sixty feet of course, worked on bogies. The car is 
 one long room, with seats each side, and a passage down 
 the centre at one end, a lavatory and smoking-room, with 
 iced water; at the other, ladies' toilet. The engines are 
 strong and top-heavy looking, because of a huge black 
 funnel, like an " overgrown wine-strainer;" in front a species 
 of big gridiron this is the cow-catcher. The railways 
 being generally unenclosed, and the metals laid over farm- 
 land, the cows have a chance of lying comfortably on the 
 line; and frequently the engines, or rather locomotives, as 
 they are called here, turns Mrs. Cow off rather suddenly. 
 Not far from the funnel is a bell, which is rung often and at 
 high pressure, when nearing or leaving a station. Many 
 of the lines run straight through the streets of a town, so 
 this precaution is useful. All the cars are of one class, but 
 the almighty dollar provides the Pullman or palace-car, and 
 
 " That's the difference, sad to see, 
 Betwixt my lord, the king, and me." 
 
 Never buy a limited ticket, if possible, but ask for a series 
 of tickets that enable you to break your journey. Never 
 travel in a "huckleberry train," i.e., one that stops at 
 all stations. Put your check-tickets in the band of your hat, 
 and put your baggage-tickets in a pocket-book. This saves 
 
160 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 trouble. Men go round the train offering all sorts of things 
 for sale oranges, books, papers, bananas, &c. These men 
 are rather a nuisance, but as a rule they are smart, and you 
 may learn a new idea or so. The checking of baggage is 
 one of the most delightful things in America. No matter 
 how often you have to change trains with your hand-bag, 
 which should contain just enough for the trip. The baggage 
 itself is at the place you ordered it to be; you have a little 
 brass-cheque given you with the number on one side, and a 
 corresponding brass-label is fixed by a leather-loop to your 
 baggage. When you arrive at (say Chicago), a parcel 
 express man will gather your checks, learn the hotel, and 
 give you a receipt for the baggage. This is all done for a 
 very reasonable sum. Avoid letting your luggage remain 
 long in a " depot," for you have to pay so much a-day for 
 each article. 
 
 Cunning little tables are set between the seats, and many 
 a good game of cards has been enjoyed, although in our 
 case the dust was a terrible nuisance. If you shut the 
 window the heat was terrific; if we opened it the table was 
 covered. Americans generally wear long white Holland 
 ulsters, these being of a glossy nature, somewhat 
 counteract this nuisance. For a lady I should suggest a 
 really good, fine alpaca ulster, with large hood. This 
 would be useful in coaching or steamer, or by rail, and 
 takes up little or no room. We lunched at Lincoln, 
 Nebraska, and here the heat had been a day or so 
 previously 109 in the shade. About three we struck the 
 
Letters from Abroad. 161 
 
 Platte River, a tributary of the Missouri, a sluggish and 
 very broad stream, suggestive of the Thames, and just 
 now the Bristol Avon would hardly surpass it in colour. 
 Shortly after we ran parallel with the Missouri itself (4,194 
 miles long) here at least a mile wide, and banked with 
 charming foliage. The land on either hand is under culti- 
 vation corn, corn everywhere everything most fertile in 
 appearance. 
 
 The Longest and Greatest Rivers in the World. 
 
 RIVERS. RISE. DISCHARGE. Miles. 
 
 Missouri Rocky Mountains Gulf of Mexico 4^94 
 
 Mississippi Lake Itaska Gulf of Mexico 2,616 
 
 Amazon Andes Atlantic Ocean 3944 
 
 Hoang-Ho Koulkoun Mountains Yellow Sea 3,ooo 
 
 Murray Australian Alps Encounter Bay 3,ooo 
 
 Obi Altaian Mountains Arctic Ocean 2,800 
 
 Nile Blue Nile, Abyssinia Mediterranean 2 >75 
 
 Yang-tse-Kia.... Thibet China Sea 2,500 
 
 Lena Heights of Irkutsk Arctic Ocean 2,500 
 
 Niger. Base of Mt. Loma Gulf of Guinea 2,300 
 
 St. Lawrence.... River St. Louis Gulf of St. Lawrence.. 
 
 Volga Lake in Volhonsky Caspian Sea 
 
 Maykiang Thibet Chinese Gulf 
 
 Indus Little Thibet Arabian Sea 
 
 Danube Black Forest Black Sea 
 
 Mackenzie River Athabasco ... ...Arctic Ocean..., 
 
 ,960 
 ,900 
 ,700 
 ,700 
 ,630 
 ,500 
 ,5oo 
 ,090 
 
 ,000 
 
 Susquehanna....Lake Otsego Chesapeake Bay 400 
 
 James Alleghany Mountains Chesapeake Bay 500 
 
 Potomac Gr. Black Bone Mts Chesapeake Bay, 400 
 
 Hudson Adirond'ks, Mt. Marcy Bay of New York 325 
 
 II 
 
 Brahmapootra... Himalaya Bay of Bengal 
 
 Columbia Rocky Mountains Pacific Ocean 
 
 Colorado San laba Gulf of California.... 
 
1 62 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 At last we reached " Wonderful Chicago," and, although 
 there happened to be a meeting of Delegates to select or 
 nominate the new President, we got good rooms at the Palmer 
 House another mighty Hotel. I can safely say the hall 
 was hardly safe to walk upon, for it had been used as one 
 huge spittoon, and everywhere the free and enlightened voter 
 had left traces of his salivary industry the Yankee crest 
 should be a Spittoon Rampant. The Palmer House is a fine 
 Hotel, and with far better feeding than the Palace, and 
 everything nicer and cheaper. The Sunday dinner was 
 simply perfection. The enclosed Menu will give you some 
 idea of what we had to select from : 
 
 THE "PALMER." 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Little Neck Clams on Shell. 
 
 Anglaise Soup. 
 Halibut au Gratin. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce; 
 
 Corned Beef and Cabbage; 
 
 Sugar-cured Ham. 
 
 Roast Beef; 
 
 Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce; 
 Turkey, Giblet Sauce. 
 
 Calf s Head en Tortue; 
 Sweetbreads, with Puree of Spinach; 
 
 Small Patties au Salbiquon; 
 
 Lamb Chops Breaded au Jus; 
 
 Fried Frogs a la Crapotine. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 163 
 
 Smoked Beef Tongue; 
 
 Chicken Salad; Spiced Oysters; 
 
 Salmon a la Mayonaise. 
 
 Cucumbers; Sliced Tomatoes; 
 
 Currant Jelly. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes; Cabbage; 
 
 Boiled Potatoes; Stewed Tomatoes; 
 
 Stewed Onions; Sweet Corn; 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Steamed Fruit Pudding, Cognac Sauce; 
 Cherry Pie; Cocoanut Meringue Pie; 
 
 Imperial Wine Jelly; Assorted Cake; 
 
 Macaroons; Confectionery; 
 
 Ice Cream a la Nesselrode; Siberian Punch. 
 
 Claret; Sweet Cider. 
 
 Mixed Nuts; Fruit; Raisins; 
 
 Edam, Roquefort, and American Cheese, 
 
 Coffee; 
 Water Melon* 
 
 Chicago is the capital of Illinois and Western America, 
 and now numbers 640,000 inhabitants, and less than fifty 
 years ago a hundred souls could not have been found. Most 
 of us can recall the terrible fires of 1871 and 1874 that 
 overtook this young city, but now no trace of their havoc 
 remains, and the marvellous growth of Chicago is without a 
 parallel in the history of modern times. It is situated on 
 Lake Michigan, and has a climate similar to that of Paris, 
 and a breeze comes off the Lake by day, and changes to 
 nearly an exact opposite at night. This grand city covers 
 
1 64 Letters from A broad. 
 
 an area of fifty square miles, and is as level as a garden 
 the whole laid out in square blocks but the authorities 
 have kept some large, well-laid out parks for the public 
 benefit, and Lincoln Park is a fine sample of what a public 
 park should be. 
 
 I could write about Chicago for hours, and then never 
 give you half a notion of its go-aheadedness. The electric 
 light is used everywhere possible, and the street wire-trams 
 are fast and easy travelling. I should not lay myself open 
 to contradiction if I said Chicago is the most wonderful city 
 in the world. The Union Stockyards are unrivalled for size, 
 and some of the curing establishments are huge systems of 
 reducing Mr. Pig to bacon, sausages, &c., impossible to 
 describe. The butcher can kill with ease 500 per hour in 
 a most artistic manner, and a few minutes after the sides, &c., 
 are in the freezing room. Ask for street car, Thirty-Ninth 
 Street, and then take tram to Union Stockyards, and get per- 
 mission to see over Mr. Fowler's. He employs 3,000 men. 
 There are two parallel continuous streets in Chicago fourteen 
 miles in length, and with houses numbered ,to over 3,000. 
 The Fire Department is the most thoroughly equipped in 
 the world. The men are fine-looking, well-dressed, and 
 understand their business thoroughly. The horses are 
 large, well-built, intelligent creatures, and as alert to their 
 duty as the men. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 
 
 16; 
 
 Size of Lai 
 
 Miles 
 LAKE. Long. 
 
 :es, S 
 
 Miles 
 Wide. 
 
 1 2O 
 60 
 4 
 12 
 
 50 
 9 
 
 4 
 3 
 35 
 45 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 60 
 40 
 
 75 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 at; 
 
 eas, and Oceans 
 
 SEAS. 
 Mediterranean. . 
 
 Miles 
 Long. 
 
 2,OOO 
 
 
 
 
 1, 8OO 
 
 Ontario 
 
 ....180 
 
 China 
 
 
 Chaniplain ... ..... 
 
 122 
 
 Red 
 
 I 4.OO 
 
 Erie 
 
 ...27O 
 
 
 
 
 ....2SO 
 
 Black 
 
 
 Cayusra... 
 
 .. 36 
 
 
 
 George 
 
 .. 16 
 
 
 600 
 
 Baikal 
 
 160 
 
 Okhotsk 
 
 600 
 
 Great Slave 
 
 ...3OO 
 
 White 
 
 . 4CQ 
 
 Winnipeg ..... 
 
 ,...24.0 
 
 Aral 
 
 . 2SO 
 
 
 ....2OO 
 
 OCEANS. 
 Pacific 
 
 Miles 
 Square. 
 
 
 ...ICO 
 
 Great Bear 
 
 ...ICO 
 
 
 ...I2C 
 
 
 
 
 .. 4.$ 
 
 
 
 
 .. 1O 
 
 
 
 Lake of the Woods. 
 
 .. 70 
 
 
 .. C.,000,000 
 
 NIAGARA, &c. 
 
 We left Chicago on Sunday afternoon per 4.15 train of the 
 Michigan Central for Niagara, and arrived at the Clifton 
 House Hotel, Canadian side, at nine next morning. I will say 
 nothing about these grand set of falls, for thousands have writ- 
 ten of their beauty and the terrible impositions imposed upon 
 the unfortunate " globe trotter;" and I can only hope the time 
 may come when this beautiful place will have every house, 
 except two or three ornamental and useful hotels, removed 
 at least a mile from the river-bed, and when the red Virginia 
 creeper will be allowed to grow up the side of the cliffs and 
 
1 66 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 stand out in rich contrast to pine-shaded slopes and the 
 bright creamy green water. Take a carriage by the day, 
 eight dollars all told, and share this between four; take 
 bridge tickets from the hotel, do the Canadian side Whirl- 
 pool, Prospect Place, Goat Island, &c., before lunch. After 
 lunch take a drive to Fire Spring, &c., and then quietly 
 back to dinner. Don't have your photograph taken, and 
 don't buy all the rubbish you see. Sunday is rather a good 
 day at Niagara, for the " tout pest " is generally eased off, 
 and the hawkers, guides, photograph-mongers are fewer. 
 The girls in the shops pounce upon you and nearly insist 
 upon your buying something. The Indian curios are mostly 
 quite a fraud, and probably made in Buffalo or New York. 
 
 From Niagara we took train and steamer to Toronto on 
 Lake Ontario. The Queen's is a good and comfortable 
 hotel. Book your berth on board the next day's steamer 
 at once. See a trotting-match, if possible. The steam trip 
 to Montreal down the Thousand Islands is very beautiful, 
 and the Lachine Rapids are worth doing, but are hardly as 
 exciting as tourists generally make out. We steamed under 
 the Grand Victoria Tubular Bridge at six o'clock, and half- 
 an-hour after saw us in the Windsor Hotel, Montreal, one of 
 the best hotels in the world, and by no means expensive. A 
 week in Montreal is none too much, and during our stay the 
 weather was bracing and fresh. We started by the early 
 morning train for Lake Champlain, and thence through 
 Lake George to Fort-William, where we took the stage- 
 coach to Saratoga. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 167 
 
 SARATOGA. 
 
 I have been to a great many places in my life, and seen 
 every variety of town, but the life at a Saratoga hotel baffles 
 all my powers of description. The town itself is nothing, 
 but the hotels are simply huge caravansaries, and during my 
 stay crammed with the elite of American society, our two 
 selves being the only Britishers there. From what I could 
 gather, sixty days are regarded by the hotel-keepers as con- 
 stituting a season of the ordinary length, and there would 
 never be any grumbling if good weather and average receipts 
 began with the ist July and ended ist September. These 
 hotels keep up an immense force of employees, incurring a 
 large daily expenditure. In the height of the season, when 
 all is rush, jostle, and push, the United States Hotel accom- 
 modates nightly an average of 1,000 to 1,200 guests, and the 
 Grand Union about the same number. The item of ser- 
 vice is one of the most serious a great hotel encounters. 
 50,000 dollars was what the United States Hotel paid for 
 help in one season alone. Some people, doubtless, imagine 
 the manager of a large hotel has little else to do beside 
 lolling in his private office, sucking cobbler through a straw, 
 or smoking a cigar. Such, I can safely imagine, is far from 
 the fact , and I should fancy the man at the other end of 
 the straw must be often fagged and weary. To enforce the 
 necessary system for carrying on such a big thing, must 
 have constant attention. The housekeeper has her squads 
 
1 68 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 of chambermaids directed on each floor by a chie*f assistant. 
 The head waiter has his deputies, who divide up the dining- 
 room between them. I feel sure in the laundry a more 
 than usually well-ordered system has to be followed, else 
 there would be confusion worse than the laundry girls must 
 have made in Babel's time. 965 dined in the one large 
 hall the day I made my inquiries, and say one-third 
 were men ; I can positively affirm that the black man in the 
 vestibule the receiver of hats, caps, gloves, sticks, &c. 
 took from these 300 men one, and sometimes all, of the 
 above-named articles, and with neither ticket nor pigeon- 
 holes he returned each man's property without a blunder, 
 or the slightest hesitation this is purely an effort of 
 memory. 
 
 Mount MacGregor is an object of interest, lying about 
 1,000 feet above Saratoga Springs. From its summit you 
 can see the dim outline of Adirondacks, the Green Moun- 
 tain range, and in the hazy distance the Catskills. Lakes, 
 patches of forest, and farm lands, stretch as far as the eye 
 can reach. We had very little time to spare at Saratoga, 
 so I tried a glass of each kind of water in the one after- 
 noon, and I fancy one must have neutralised the others, 
 for I never heard any more about them. 
 
 The hotels are constructed round an immense quadrangle, 
 the inside square being a large garden planted with forest 
 trees, and beautifully laid out with band-stand in centre and 
 shady nooks in every imaginable place. The dining, 
 drawing, smoking, and ball-rooms are on the ground floor, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 169 
 
 and open out into a broad-covered verandah the ver- 
 andah itself forming a jolly chatting or walking place. It 
 was very hot here during our stay the silver fluid in the 
 glass tube palpitated, expanded, and gradually climbed its 
 way up and up until it reached the nineties ; even here it did 
 not stop, but still upward, and at three o'clock 95 was 
 touched. The dancing here is good, also the music. I 
 was introduced to about 400 colonels and at least 40 judges. 
 I fancy the former must be manufactured on the spot. I 
 was also introduced by the M.C. to a very nice little 
 American. She told me her father was an oyster merchant, 
 and I knew all about her brothers and sisters, cousins, 
 aunts, in less than ten minutes. After two dances she said, 
 " Come along, we will go and see Uncle John in the Grand 
 Union." We started off down the street of Saratoga she 
 in her ball-dress, I in my war-paint, both without hat or 
 bonnet; and soon we were taking drinks with Uncle John, 
 and dancing to the strain of a fresh band in the ball-room of 
 the Grand Union. Picnics, laughing, chatting, flirting, and 
 dancing, to say nothing of smoking, form the principal 
 attractions of Saratoga. We left by the eleven o'clock night 
 mail for New York, and reached that city early next 
 morning. 
 
 New York and Brooklyn Bridge. 
 
 First talked of by Colonel Julius W. Adams about 1855. Act of 
 incorporation passed April, 1866. Survey begun by John A. Roebling, 
 1869. Construction begun January 2, 1870. First rope thrown 
 across the river, August 14, 1876. Master Mechanic Farrington crossed 
 
170 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 in a boatswain's chair, August 25, 1876. Depth of the New York 
 foundation below high-water mark, 78 feet 6 inches. Depth of the 
 Brooklyn foundation below high-water mark, 45 feet. The New 
 York tower contains 46,945 cubic yards of masonry; the Brooklyn 
 tower, 38,214. Weight of the Brooklyn tower, about 93,079 tons. 
 Weight of the New York tower, about a third more. Size of the 
 towers at high- water line 140 x 59 feet ; at roof-course, 136 x 53 feet. 
 Height of the towers above high-water mark, 276 feet 6 inches. 
 Height of roadway in the clear in the middle of the East River, 135 
 feet Grade of the roadway, 3 feet 3 inches to 100 feet. Width of 
 the promenade in the centre of bridge, 16 feet 7 inches. Width for 
 railway on one side of the promenade, 12 feet 10 inches. Width of 
 carriage way on the other side of the promenade, 18 feet 9 inches. 
 Width of bridge, 85 feet Length of main span, 1,595 feet 6 inches. 
 Length of each land span, 930 feet. Length of the Brooklyn approach, 
 971 feet. Length of the New York approach, 1,560 feet. Length of 
 each of the four great cables, 3.578 feet 6 inches; diameter, 15^" inches; 
 number of steel-galvanised wires in each cable, 5,434; weight of each 
 cable, about 800 tons. Ultimate strength of each cable, 15,000 tons. 
 Weight of steel in the suspended superstructure, 10,000 tons. Total 
 cost, 15,000,000 dollars. Opened for traffic in 1883. 
 
 We put up at the celebrated Fifth Avenue Hotel, and 
 paid six dollars a day for room and food; but my advice 
 to say a couple or three men travelling together would be, 
 take a dollar and a-half or two-dollar bed-room each at the 
 Brunswick; breakfast, lunch, and dine where you like not 
 forgetting that one portion at a restaurant is often enough 
 for three always more than sufficient for two. 
 
 New York is so familiar to us all now, and so near, by 
 means of our floating hotels, that I will say nothing about 
 it. If you want a really good English chop, or a dozen 
 Blue Point oysters, go to John Ronan, 503 Broadway. 
 Walk once from top to bottom of Broadway. Call in and 
 
Letters from Abroad. 171 
 
 see Tiffineys, the large jeweller. Always use the Elevated 
 Way when you can. Spend a night or so at the Casino 
 Theatre, and have supper on the roof. Attend service at 
 St. Thomas' Church, Fifth Avenue. Do Manhattan and 
 Coney Island. Go to Greenwood Cemetery. Go up the 
 Hudson to Albany. Take the Fall River Line and steamer 
 Pilgrim for Boston, and stay when there at the Hotel 
 Vendome. 
 
 I have seen a good deal of Americans now, having twice 
 visited the great Continent, and for twelve years I was 
 thrown against them very often at the Langham Hotel in 
 London and I can pass an opinion founded on some 
 observation. That the bulk are boastful and bad-mannered 
 is unquestioned (I am only talking of the bulk), but the 
 really educated American is very nice indeed, full of dry 
 humour, with broad views, able and willing to give informa- 
 tion, and unbounded in hospitality. The real Religion of 
 the Americans is Dollarology. He worships the Dollar. Of 
 course, a man must be sufficiently crafty to make his 
 dollars in such a way that he is not within the pale of the 
 law, but it is of very little moment to the average American 
 who sinks as long as he swims. The typical American likes 
 show, the insignia being a huge oblong finger-ring for the 
 men, and diamonds in daylight for the women. They have 
 a leaning for 'cuteness rather than honesty. Their states- 
 men are smart, very smart, and push along at a grand pace 
 the shrewdest people in the world but I fear all this 
 smartness has a tendency to lessen in the sight of the 
 
172 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 rising generation the value of honesty and truth, and 
 any one resisting the temptation to make money in a 
 questionable speculation would be regarded with ridicule 
 rather than respect Anyway, from what I have heard, read, 
 and seen of the American Stock Exchange, and especially 
 the New York branch of that powerful body, I can safely 
 say this, that Americans themselves feel very little confi- 
 dence in their dealings, and the whole body are generally 
 under a cloud of suspicion. There must be in every country 
 rising and falling markets, but in America there is no real 
 steadiness, and if a rise in the price of securities occurs, the 
 public mind is possessed by the not unnatural suspicion that 
 the advance has been caused by the manipulation of some 
 clique of speculators interested in getting rid of heavier bur- 
 dens than they like to carry. Indeed, as far as I could see, the 
 worst characteristic of the New York Stock Market is the 
 common lack of confidence in the integrity of those who 
 control it. When men of enormous wealth all of which 
 must be subject to decrease or increase by the operations 
 of Wall Street combine to protect themselves, the public 
 must stand aloof or be crushed. I shall never forget the 
 Petroleum Stock Room, and as we wended our way back to 
 the Brunswick my mind was filled with the fascination of 
 being rich in a hurry. I think I better understood on that 
 day what the word gambler meant. It is the great available 
 wealth of these men, and their disposition to use it without 
 being too particular about the manner of using it, which has 
 served in such a great degree to impair public confidence in 
 
L etters from A broad. 1 7 3 
 
 the American Stock Exchange. These wire-pullers will let 
 their friends in in their efforts to secure themselves. The 
 J G of America are the ruin of all honest stock- 
 broking; the public are at the mercy of such men, and the 
 public are now beginning to know that mercy is a quality 
 quite out of the question, and are avoiding the markets in 
 which these men play their tricks the Jack and trout don't 
 live well together. There is no other country on the face 
 of the earth where money counts for so much as it does 
 in this country. " There is no other country in the world 
 where it excuses so many mean and dirty dealings in the 
 making of this money, and there is no country in the world 
 where it is so recklessly, unwisely, or vulgarly spent, or where 
 it returns so little to the spender." The simple life of 
 industry is being hitched up together with that of the 
 gambler. High and low, rich and poor, are gradually be- 
 coming gamblers, and men who, like G G , held a 
 
 high reputation, are induced to carry that reputation to the 
 market and sell the lot for what it may fetch. 
 
 The Americans as a body are vulgar, for they have not 
 arrived at the threshold of finding out that tawdry display is 
 not happiness, and that simple industry, plain living, and 
 self-denial are higher attributes for a young and glorious 
 country to aim at than that feverish haste to be rich at no 
 matter what cost. Who shall say where this lively taste 
 for vulgarities, extravagances, and exaggerations will lead 
 this marvellous nation ? 
 
 Let money be at stake, and all over the world you will see 
 human nature with the paint off. 
 
i/4 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 The Americans seem to have imbibed into their veins 
 the restless haste and hunger to rise, which is the source of 
 much that is good and most that is evil in the life of this fine 
 people. I'm hot ; 92 in the shade, so enough for the day ! ! 
 
 There is one thing that will strike you about New York : 
 no bright window-boxes in the houses, no pretty beds or 
 borders in the splendid Central Park, and the suburbs 
 nothing but long straight lines of warm red stone. A cab or 
 carriage drive in New York is a luxury, and should not be 
 indulged in without some consideration. I paid for an after- 
 noon drive of two hours and a half the sum of eight dollars, 
 or 325. I must admit the carriage, man, and horses were 
 very good, but it taught caution. 
 
 I agree with the Standard that there is no place 
 in the world where cooling drinks are better under- 
 stood than in America. With the thermometer from 90 
 to 97, the claims of even pleasure or business are for 
 the time put aside for the more temporarily important 
 subject of iced drinks. The natural evaporation during this 
 excessive heat makes renewal a pleasing necessity. The 
 names of Brother Jonathan's drinks are legion mint julep, 
 egg nob, John Collins, soda-lemonade, corpse reviver, whisky, 
 gin, and brandy cock-tails, ad infinitum. No bars in the 
 world are more tempting or better served than those across 
 the Atlantic. The Hoffman House, Fifth Avenue, New York, 
 is worthy a visit, if only from an artistic point of view. "Iced 
 goat" is, I believe, the latest drink. The bar-tender must 
 have the knowledge of a Mephistopheles and the mani- 
 
Letters from Abroad. 175 
 
 pulation of Herr Dobler, this white-jacketed, clean- 
 shaven man has everything at hand. To say that these 
 drinks are inexpensive is an error, for twenty cents, or 
 rod., is about the usual price for nearly all short drinks, but 
 the quantity of ice used and wasted in the preparation of your 
 drink must be taken into consideration. My advice to a 
 stranger in New York during the summer months is modera- 
 tion in iced drinks, for I feel sure half the dyspepsia in the 
 States and the great demand for and success of American 
 dentists, is due to ice. Iced water at breakfast, iced water 
 at dinner, iced water at night in Tact, ice in every available 
 way. I must admit that an old torn cock-tail, followed by 
 a tumbler of water with tiny icebergs peeping above the 
 surface is very nice, but I say again, avoid this cold enchan- 
 tress. If you want a simple glass of spirit ask for whisky 
 straight or brandy straight, and you will have the bottle 
 handed to you so that you may help yourself. The most 
 poetic of the American drinks, as far as names go, are 
 "bosom caresser" and "fairy kisses." The American 
 language is very graphic, and the following instance struck 
 me as being very good : If they can't float a public com- 
 pany as easily as was at first supposed, they will tell you 
 that " coach has stopped for repairs." 
 
 As far as I could judge, the members of their legislative 
 body are simply delegates, not representatives, of one or 
 other political party, consequently at the beck and call of 
 the political wire-pullers. 
 
 The Produce Exchange, New York, is a very fine, com- 
 
1 76 Letters from A broad. 
 
 plete, and useful building, saving labour, and concentrating 
 the corn and produce business. The view of New York 
 from the Tower is the finest to be obtained. 20,000 people 
 danced in this enormous building the day it was opened. 
 Personally, I very much admire the solid architecture, well- 
 arranged offices, and smart lifts. Having taken our passage 
 on board the Oregon, now owned by the Cunard Co., and 
 
 finding I had a day or so to spare, M and I ran up by 
 
 the Fall River Line to Boston ; and I think a slight descrip- 
 tion of the steamer Pilgrim will give you some idea of what 
 Yankees can and will do. Always take your berth and 
 tickets two or three days before, to avoid sleeping on a 
 mattress in the saloon. The following description is mostly 
 taken from the Company's foot-notes, but nothing is beyond 
 the fact; for photographs or illustrations can but in a very 
 inadequate manner convey a correct impression of this 
 really great and beautiful marine mammoth, which is con- 
 trolled as easily as a small tug-boat. 
 
 Principal dimensions Length on deck 390 feet, beam of 
 the hull proper 50 feet, beam over guards 87 feet 6 inches, 
 depth of hold 18 feet 6 inches, depth from upper deck to 
 hold 60 feet, tonnage 3,500 registered tons making her by 
 far the largest inland steamer in the world. Her motive 
 power consists of a vertical beam-engine, with a cylinder of 
 1 10 inches in diameter, stroke of piston 14 feet, working 
 under a maximum steam-pressure of 50 pounds to the 
 square inch. She has twelve boilers made of steel, develop- 
 ing in all 5,500 horse-power. She is a ship within a ship, 
 
Letters from Abroad. 177 
 
 and has 103 water-tight compartments. 25 feet from her 
 stern is the water-tight collision bulk-head, 50 feet abaft the 
 stem is another bulk-head. The Pilgrim has her engines 
 and boilers enclosed in iron bulk-heads, rendering it impos- 
 sible for fire from boilers or kitchen to reach any other part 
 of the boat. The introduction of electricity has reduced 
 the chances of fire to the most infinitesimal points, there 
 being no fire in any part of the vessel, except in this same 
 boiler-room and kitchen. The electric plant on the Pilgrim 
 is Edison's, and consists of 912 lamps i L and 2 K 
 dynamos, with a capacity of 11,382 candle power, and 
 worked by two engines. Care has been taken, throughout 
 the whole wiring, to provide such a system as to prevent 
 the lights from being extinguished by any accident to the 
 boat; and so the wiring has been divided into four indepen- 
 dent sections. You can go into your berth, and at any 
 moment turn 'on and turn off this beautiful light. The 
 grand saloon is illuminated by one magnificent electrolier 
 of 36 lights, and two smaller electroliers of 27 lights each. 
 The light in State-Room continues all night. I hardly 
 know where to begin in the description of the Pilgrim, but 
 will imagine we are entering this huge ship from the wharf 
 on her starboard side (right-hand side, facing bows). The 
 Pilgrim can never have a jammed gangway, for the purser's 
 room is on the port side. The lavatory is a huge place, in 
 which the barber has comfortable quarters; and, talking 
 about barbers, there are none better, or more expensive, 
 
 than the artist barbers of America. 
 
 12 
 
178 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 The grand saloon is now the point to which we turn our 
 steps, having taken our state-room and tickets days before. 
 This is the largest and finest steamboat saloon in the world, 
 being 320 feet in length. Its dome roof is 20 feet 6 inches 
 from the deck, and is 280 feet long. This grand saloon will 
 hold 1,400 passengers comfortably. The ceiling overhead 
 and under the gallery is frescoed in party-colours, giving a 
 most charming effect. In this grand saloon are 103 state- 
 rooms, seven bridal chambers, and two family bridals. The 
 bridal rooms have two folding bedsteads, so that the room 
 is in fact a drawing-room until the time of retiring. These 
 rooms have ceilings frescoed with cupids, sea-nymphs, and 
 urchins. The ordinary state-rooms are models of comfort 
 with spring beds, the best of hair mattresses, feather pillows, 
 and spotless bed linen, lace and damask curtains. Only in 
 selecting a state-room, don't forget to get as far away from 
 the paddle-wheels as possible. The dining-hall has sixteen 
 tables capable of seating at one time 170 persons. Forward 
 of this are the servants' quarters, where 54 men are berthed 
 nightly. The huge proportions of this ship are softened by 
 her symmetry, and really the whole bulk looks small. She 
 cost one million sterling, and is a floating monument to the 
 skill, enterprise, ability, and scientific attainments of the 
 American engineer and mechanic. The night I was on 
 board over 1,400 passengers were comfortably provided for. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 179 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 Trevithick came down to see us off. We started 
 early on the morning of the 26th June. The Oregon 
 is a grand specimen of what the English shipbuilder 
 can do, her speed averaging about 420 knots. But I am 
 now becoming bankrupt in adjectives, so I will not try to 
 describe her. The huge saloon, in plain white and gold, 
 affords a pretty contrast to the coloured glass swinging in 
 the racks above. This ship moves very steadily ; but no 
 matter how hot it may be in New York, nor how tempting 
 the sun, don't fail to put on thick underclothing, for the 
 speed causes a great falling of the temperature, and conges- 
 tion of the liver may be the result. 
 
 Directly you get on board order your bath at a given 
 time, and at once select your seat at table. We arrived at 
 Queenstown in 6 days 14 hours and i minute, very nearly 
 the fastest time on record. It was a glorious day, sea calm 
 as a mirror, as we steamed past Anglesea, making a slight 
 dip into Carnarvon Bay, with the dotted houses of Llandudno 
 in the distance. During the voyage the beating the America 
 (who up to the present had done the fastest time on record) 
 was all the theme; and we only lost by a quarter of an hour. 
 We both sent up a British cheer as the rivals passed each 
 other just outside the Liverpool bar, she on her way across 
 the Herring Pond and Westward Ho ! 
 
 The Custom House at Liverpool is the worst in the world. 
 The cramming and jamming is enough to make the American 
 
i So Letters from Abroad. 
 
 sneer at our want of system. What can you expect when I 
 tell you that these officials get paid ^65 per annum, and 
 have to work for ninety hours per week ; they must always 
 appear respectable, and even the Sabbath is not their own. 
 We left all baggage in the shed, drove to the hotel, washed 
 and dined, and returned at ten for our luggage, where we 
 still found many of our fellow-passengers struggling with 
 their boxes, &c. We soon got our lot passed, and in less 
 than half an hour were smoking a quiet pipe at the London 
 and North-Western Hotel, having done some 30,000 miles 
 at a cost of ,450 each at the outside, having seen, during 
 the eight months, many of the landscape wonders of the world. 
 
 Fictitious Names of States. 
 
 BADGER STATE. A name popularly given to the State of 
 Wisconsin. 
 
 BAY STATE. A popular name of Massachusetts, which, previous 
 to the adoption of the Federal Constitution, was called the Colony 
 of Massachusetts Bay. 
 
 BAYOU STATE. A name sometimes given to the State of Missis- 
 sippi, which abounds in bayous, or creeks. 
 
 BEAR STATE. A name by which the State of Arkansas is some- 
 times designated, on account of the number of bears that formerly 
 infested its forests. 
 
 CREOLE STATE. A name sometimes given to the State of 
 Louisiana, in which the descendants of the original French and 
 Spanish settlers constitute a large proportion of the population. 
 
 DIAMOND STATE. A name sometimes given to the State of 
 Delaware, from its small size and great worth, or supposed im- 
 portance. 
 
 EMPIRE STATE. A popular name of the State of New York,, the 
 most populous and the wealthiest State in the Union. 
 
 EXCELSIOR STATE. The State of New York, sometimes so 
 called from the motto "Excelsior" upon its coat of arms. 
 
Letters from Abroad. 181 
 
 FREESTONE STATE. The State of Connecticut, sometimes so 
 called from the quarries of freestone which it contains. 
 
 GRANITE STATE. A popular name for the State of New Hamp- 
 shire, the mountainous portions of which are largely composed of 
 granite. 
 
 GREEN MOUNTAIN STATE. A popular name for the State of 
 Vermont, the Green Mountains being the principal mountain 
 range in the State. 
 
 HAWKEYE STATE. The State of Iowa, said to be so named after 
 an Indian Chief, who was once a terror to VOYAGEURS to its 
 borders. 
 
 HOOSIER STATE. The State of Indiana, the inhabitants of which 
 are often called HOOSIERS. This word is a corruption of HUSHEB, 
 formerly a common term for a bully throughout the West. 
 
 KEYSTONE STATE. The State of Pennsylvania, so called from its 
 having been the central State of the Union at the time of the 
 formation of the Constitution. If the names of the thirteen original 
 States are arranged in the form of an arch, Pennsylvania will 
 occupy the place of the keystone. 
 
 LAKE STATE. A name popularly given to the State of Michigan, 
 which borders upon the four lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, 
 and Erie. 
 
 LONE-STAR STATE. The State of Texas, so called from the 
 device on its coat of arms. 
 
 LUMBER STATE. A popular designation for the State of Maine, 
 the inhabitants of which are largely engaged in the business of 
 cutting and rafting lumber, or of converting it into boards, shingles, 
 scantlings, and the like. 
 
 MOTHER OF PRESIDENTS. A name frequently given in the 
 United States to the State of Virginia, which has furnished six 
 presidents to the Union. 
 
 MOTHER OF STATES. A name sometimes given to Virginia, the 
 first settled of the thirteen States which united in the Declaration 
 of Independence. 
 
 NUTMEG STATE. A popular name, in America, for the State of 
 Connecticut, the inhabitants of which have such a reputation for 
 shrewdness, that they have been jocosely accused of palming off 
 wooden nutmegs on unsuspecting purchasers, instead of the genuine 
 article. 
 
1 82 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 OLD COLONY. A name popularly given to that portion of Massa- 
 chusetts included within the original limits of the Plymouth colony, 
 which was formed at an earlier date than the colony of Massa- 
 chusetts Bay. 
 
 OLD DOMINION. A popular name for the State of Virginia. 
 
 OLD NORTH STATE A popular designation of the State of 
 North Carolina. 
 
 PALMETTO STATE. The State of South Carolina, so called from 
 the arms of the State, which contain a palmetto. 
 
 PENINSULAR STATE. The State of Florida, so called from its 
 shape. 
 
 PINE-TREE STATE. A popular name of the State of Maine, the 
 central and northern portions of which are covered with extensive 
 pine forests. 
 
 PRAIRIE STATE. A name given to Illinois in allusion to the wide- 
 spread and beautiful prairies, which form a striking feature of the 
 scenery of the State. 
 
 TURPENTINE STATE. A popular name for the State of North 
 Carolina, which produces and exports immense quantities of 
 turpentine. 
 
 Fictitious Names of Cities. 
 
 BLUFF CITY. A descriptive name popularly given to the city of 
 Hannibal, Missouri. 
 
 CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. Philadelphia is sometimes so 
 called, this being the literal signification of the name. 
 
 CITY OF CHURCHES. A name popularly given to the city of 
 Brooklyn, N.Y., from the unusually large number of churches 
 which it contains. 
 
 CITY OF ELMS. A familiar denomination of New Haven, Conn., 
 many of the streets of which are thickly shaded with lofty elms. 
 
 CITY OF MAGNIFICENT DISTANCES.-A popular designation 
 given to the city of Washington, the capital of the United States, 
 which is laid out on a very large scale, being intended to cover a 
 space four miles and a half long, and two miles and a half broad, 
 or eleven square miles. The entire site is traversed by two sets 
 of streets, from 70 to 100 feet wide, at right angles to one another, 
 the whole again intersected obliquely by fifteen avenues from 130 
 to 1 60 feet wide. 
 
Letters from A broad. 1 8 3 
 
 CITY OF NOTIONS. In the united States, a popular name for 
 
 the city of Boston, Mass., the metropolis of Yankeedom. 
 CITY OF ROCKS. A descriptive name popularly given, in the 
 
 United States, to the city of Nashville, Tenn. 
 CITY OF SPINDLES. A name popularly given to the city of 
 
 Lowell, Mass., the largest cotton-manufacturing town in the 
 
 United States. 
 CITY OF THE STRAITS. A name popularly given to Detroit 
 
 which is situated on the west bank of the river or strait connecting 
 
 Lake St. Clair with Lake Erie. DETROIT is a French word 
 
 meaning " strait." 
 CRESCENT CITY. A popular name for the city of New Orleans, 
 
 the older portion of which is built around the convex side of a bend 
 
 of the Mississippi River. 
 EMPIRE CITY. The city of New York, the chief city of the 
 
 western world, and the metropolis of the Empire State. 
 FALL CITY. Louisville, Ky., popularly so called from the falls 
 
 which, at this place, impede the navigation of the Ohio River. 
 FLOUR CITY. A popular designation, in the United States, for 
 
 the city of Rochester, N.Y., a place remarkable for its extensive 
 
 manufactories of flour. 
 FLOWER CITY. Springfield, Illinois, the capital of the state, which 
 
 is distinguished for the beauty of its surroundings. 
 FOREST CITY. I. Cleveland, Ohio, so called from the many 
 
 ornamental trees with which the streets are bordered. 
 2. A name given to Portland, Maine, a city distinguished for its 
 
 many elms and other beautiful shade trees. 
 GARDEN CITY. A popular name for Chicago, a city which is 
 
 remarkable for the number and beauty of its private gardens. 
 GARDEN OF THE WEST. A name usually given to Kansas, but 
 
 sometimes applied to Illinois and others of the Western States 
 
 which are all noted for their high productiveness. 
 GATE CITY. Keokuk, Iowa, popularly so called. It is situated 
 
 at the foot of the lower rapids of the Mississippi. 
 GOTHAM. A popular name for the city of New York. 
 HUB OF THE UNIVERSE. A burlesque and popular designation 
 
 of Boston, Mass., originating with the American humourist, O. W. 
 
 Holmes. 
 IRON CITY. A name popularly given in the United States to 
 
1 84 Letters from Abroad. 
 
 Pittsburg, Pa., a city distinguished for its numerous and immense 
 
 iron manufactures. 
 MONUMENTAL CITY. The city of Baltimore, so called from the 
 
 monuments which it contains. 
 MOUND CITY. A name popularly given to St. Louis, on account 
 
 of the numerous artificial mounds that occupied the site on which 
 
 the city is built. 
 PURITAN CITY. A name sometimes given to the city of Boston, 
 
 Mass., in allusion to the character of its founders and early 
 
 inhabitants. 
 QUAKER CITY. A popular name of Philadelphia, which was 
 
 planned and settled by William Penn. 
 QUEEN CITY. A popular name of Cincinnati, so called when 
 
 it was the undisputed commercial metropolis of the West. 
 QUEEN CITY OF THE LAKES. A name sometimes given to 
 
 the city of Buffalo, N. Y., from its position and importance. 
 RAILROAD CITY. Indianapolis, the capital of the State of Indiana, 
 
 is sometimes called by this name, as being the terminus of various 
 
 railroads. 
 SMOKY CITY. A name sometimes given to Pittsburg, an important 
 
 manufacturing city of Pennsylvania. 
 
 BELL AND BAIN, PRINTERS, GLASGOW. 
 

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