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 o 
 
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 S I
 
 TOUR 
 
 ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, 
 
 IN 1785.
 
 TOUR 
 
 IN 
 
 ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, 
 
 IN 1785. 
 
 BY AN ENGLISH GENTLEMAN. 
 
 vvu /UwC. 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR G. C. J. AND J. KOBINtON, 
 PATER-NOSTER-ROW. 
 
 1788.
 
 Stack 
 Annex 
 
 I T I N E R A R Y, 
 
 WITH THE PRINCIPAL 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 
 Miles Page 
 
 
 
 12 Burton - 24 
 
 Miles Page 
 
 12 Derby - 25 
 
 s 8 OXFORD - 
 
 3 
 
 1 6 Matlock 25 
 
 Woodftock 
 
 1 
 
 AND 
 
 1 7 Blenheim and back 
 
 3 
 
 8 Environs - 25 29 
 
 19 Chapel-Houfe 
 
 6 
 
 Aflibourn - 29 
 
 Haythorp 
 
 6 
 
 4 Dove-Dale - 30 
 
 10 Shipftone - 
 
 9 
 
 12 Bakewell 30 
 
 12 Marftone 
 
 
 3 Chatfworth - 30 
 
 5 Edge Hill 
 
 
 5 Stoney Middleton 32 
 
 15 Stratford 
 
 10 
 
 12 Buxton - 33 
 
 10 Birmingham 
 
 ii 
 
 9 Caftle-ton Peake, i 
 
 7 Sutton 
 
 20 
 
 &c. - - J 34 
 
 9 Litchfield A 
 
 21 
 
 5 Chapel-in-Frith 38 
 
 
 a 20 Man-
 
 Miles Page 
 
 20 Manchefter 38 42 
 jq Worfley and 
 
 44 
 45 
 
 47 
 47 
 49 
 49 
 49 
 50 
 51 
 51 
 
 25 Warrington 
 12 Prefect 
 
 8 Liverpool 45 47 
 20 Canal, Leeds 
 
 3 Ormfldrk 
 19 Prefton 
 ii Garflang 
 1 1 Lancafter 
 
 9 Hornby 
 
 30 Kirby Lonfdale 
 J2 Kendai 
 9 Bownefs 
 
 Miles 
 
 5 Hawkes-head - 54 
 
 6 Coniftone - 54 
 5 Low- Wood - 55 
 
 20 Bownefs and round 
 
 the Windermere 
 
 Lake - 53 56 
 
 1 6 Ditto, ditto 56 58 
 
 1 8 Kefwick - 58 
 
 10 Skeddaw 60 
 
 12 Barrowdale - 61 
 
 15 Ulls- Water - 64 
 
 5 Penrith 67 
 
 1 8 Carlifle - 68 
 
 606 in ENGLAND. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 Miles 
 
 18 ANNAN 
 
 18 Dumfries 
 21 Moffat 
 14 Elvanfoot 
 Drumlanrig 
 
 Page 
 70 
 
 71 
 
 74 
 
 77 
 77 
 78 
 
 The Clyde, tie Tweed, and the Annan 
 
 14 Douglafs-Mill 
 
 14 Lanerk and th Falls of the Clyde 8085 
 
 15 Hamilton,
 
 Miles Pa Z e 
 
 S Hamilton 8 5 8 7 
 
 Bothwell Caftle 88 
 
 11 Glafgow 9099 
 
 7 Paidey 9598 
 Cruickftone Caftle < i 
 
 15 Dumbarton I01 
 
 13 Lufs 
 
 Loch Lomond, iclth the Soi-thern AfyeSl of 
 the Highlands 104111 
 
 8 Tarbat IO 9 
 
 Glencroe II2 
 
 14 Cairndow IJ 3 
 
 10 Invcrary and Loch Fine, with a Plan for 
 
 promoting the Fijherics - - 114 I2 3 
 
 16 Dalmally, with Locb-Ave - 124127 
 
 12 Oban, Bunaiue, Loch-Etive^ Furnefs-Com- 
 
 fan\; Cntachan, Dunjla/nage, Dunol/y y 
 
 and 4',pin 127 132 
 
 j8 Glencoe, King's Houfe, and Tyndrum 133 135 
 
 24 Fort-Vx'illiam, with the neighbouring Lakes 135 144 
 14 Let'.er-Findlay, with the adjacent Country 144145 
 14 Fort Auguftus, with the neighbouring Alcun- 
 
 tainsj Rivers y and L. I 45"- I 49 
 
 14 General's Hut and Fall sf Foyers 148 
 
 j j Invernefs, luilb its Environs^ and the SW, 
 
 Climate^ and Contour of the Country 149 1 5 3 
 
 a 2 Cul:
 
 Miles Pagt 
 
 Cnlloden-Moc'-, Cauder Cajlle, Fort George, 
 and 
 
 15 Nairne - 153 
 12 Elgin, with Forres, and a remarkable Inun- 
 dation . . 154 T s8 
 
 9 Fochabers, Gordon Caftle, and Strictures 
 on the general Mode cf planting Trees in 
 Scotland 158- 161 
 
 12 Cullen - 161 
 
 11 Bamff - j2 
 
 1 6 New-Deer - 164 
 16 Peterhead, with the Co/tie of Slants, end 
 
 Boilers of Buchan 164 167 
 
 36 Elian, with a Seat of the Earl of Aberdeen' $ 167 
 
 1.6 Aberdeen 16717? 
 
 15 Stonehaven, with Dunotter Cajlle - 172173 
 10 Innerbervie - 174 
 
 33 Montrofe - i7^ r ___i76 
 
 8 Brechin - - - - 176 
 
 12 for&r^vith Marie- Lakes and Glamis Co/lie 176177 
 18 Cupar - - - 178 
 15 Perth, with a Geographical Defcription of 
 
 the central and mojl celebrated Parts of 
 Scotland , _ 178193 
 
 "The Improvements around in Agriculture 
 arid Manufactures, and the public Spirit of 
 the Pertjhire Gentlemen and others, - ib.
 
 Miles 
 
 Scone defcribed) with the Circumjiance that 
 rendered it a fit Place of Refidence for the 
 ScottiJ}} Kings jo, I jgj 
 
 Strathern, the dijlinguijhed Beauty and Fer- 
 tility of that Galley 10,3 200 
 20 Auchtei arder, the Seat of a Prejbytery famous 
 for a Mixture of Popijh Claims and Anti- 
 nomian Doflrines The Druidical Gloom 
 that furraunds it 2OI 
 The Vale, with the Falls of the Devon and 
 the anticnt Cajllcs of the Marquij/es of 
 Montrofe and Argyll 202 207 
 
 14 Dunblane the Sheriff- muir, Approach of 
 
 the Ochills to the Grampians Grazing, 
 
 and Hinfi concerning it 202 2OQ 
 
 Stirling 210 
 
 Hiftorical Account of the K.oyal Palaces in 
 
 Scotland 210 213 
 
 Highlanders, Characler of y w\th various 
 
 Anecdotes 214 22a 
 
 Feudal Syftem and Ariftocracy ;'/; Scotland^ 
 the Revolution, Darien, Union, aim 
 litijn of Heritable Jurifdiftisns 231246 
 
 Bannockbburn, Battle of 246 252 
 
 12 Carron, </WFalkjrk 252 -256 
 
 10 Linlithgow - 256 
 
 18 Edin-
 
 ( viii ) 
 
 Wiles P a g e 
 
 jS Edinburgh, its Situation, CafJe, Origin of 
 Edinburgh^ and of Burghs in general, 
 New Town, public Buildings, Hojpifahj 
 Character of the Lowland Scots in general, 
 and the Edinburghers in particular, Pro- 
 grefs of Commerce and Arts, the Univerf.ty 
 of Edinburgh, Places of Amufement, and 
 the State of Religion 256 342 
 
 Salifbury Craggs and Arthur Seat, with the 
 
 View from thence - 290 294 
 
 Leith, toe Sea Port of Edinburgh - 294298 
 Advantages of lowering in Scotland the Duties 
 on Ale and Beer^ and a Commutation Tax 
 propofed for this purpofe 304 
 
 Murder of Capt, Porteous, with the Fate of 
 
 his AJJ'aJJins - 336341 
 
 12 Burnt-Ifhnd 
 
 12 Edinburgh, back to 
 
 14 Black Shiels '- ^ 
 
 12 Lawder 
 
 1 6 Sydenham - j^ ..... 342343 
 
 8 Kelfo - J 
 
 8 Coldftream 
 
 769 in SCOTLAND. 
 
 ENGLAND.
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 Miles Page 
 
 MILL- FIELD Plain, with the Buttle of 
 
 Fhitden 34.4. 351 
 
 1 6 Wollerhaugh 
 
 18 Alnwick - 352354 
 
 This Town, with the whole Coaft from New- 
 cajlle to Berwick^ admiralty fitted for Wool- 
 len Manufatturcs - - 354. 
 Sundry Objcrvations and Anecdotes concerning 
 the antient Kingdom of Northumbeiland y 
 during the Roman, Saxon, and Norman 
 
 354 360 
 
 A Lijl of Words, the fame in the Norwegian 
 and the Icelandic Languages, and In that of 
 the Lowlands of Scotland^ and the Northern 
 Counties of England - 360 362 
 
 Hints for rendering the Union between Eng- 
 land and Scotland mere and more complete, 
 and for fee ur Ing the Liberty and Profperity 
 cf both 363 367 
 
 16 Wollerhaugh 
 18 Alnwick 
 1 8 Morpeth 
 15 Newcaftle 
 
 10 Shields 
 
 15 Durham
 
 Witt 
 
 15 Durham 
 
 1 8 Darlington 
 
 18 North Allerton 
 
 19 Eafingwould 
 
 13 York 
 
 9 Tadcafler 
 
 14 Leeds 
 
 9 Wakefield 
 12 Bank Top 
 12 Sheffield 
 12 Cheflei field 
 12 Mansfield 
 
 15 Nottingham 
 14 Loughbro' 
 ii Leicefter 
 
 Miles 
 
 15 Harbro' 
 9 Lamport 
 
 8 Northampton 
 15 Newport Pagnel 
 
 9 Wooburne 
 
 10 Dunftable 
 
 8 St. Alban's 
 
 11 Barnet 
 
 12 London 
 
 377 
 606 
 
 983 /* ENGLAND 
 769 in SCOTLAND 
 
 1,752 Miles 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 
 
 The Prints to be placed thus : 
 
 1. Ulh Water, a Lake in Cumberland, - fronting page 65 
 
 2. Stone Byers Lynn on the Clyde, - - . 8 1 
 
 3. Balioell Caflle* - 89 
 
 4. av>n and Caftle ot Invtrerji - - - 120 
 
 5. The Caldron Lynn, _ _ 205 
 
 6. Edinburgh Caftle^ _ _ . 257
 
 OUR 
 
 I M 
 
 ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 THERE is not one hour in the life of 
 any man that is exactly the fame with 
 another, during the whole courfe of his ex- 
 iftence, from the cradle to the grave. New 
 objects, circumftances, and fituations; new 
 ideas, emotions, and pafiions, blended toge- 
 ther, according to their different fhades and 
 order of fucceffion, and producing fancies, 
 hopes, and fears, in endlefs variety, render 
 human life the mofl variegated as well as the 
 moft fleeting fcene with which we are at all 
 acquainted in the whole circle of nature. As 
 
 A the
 
 (2 J 
 
 tlie power of language is unable to arreft and 
 defcribe the mixed emotions of the mind at the 
 moment they pafs, fo it is far lefs fitted to re- 
 call them at pleafure. But if we cannot clothe 
 in language, and mark down, the various fen- 
 timents and feelings that occupy our minds in 
 different times and fituations, it is in our 
 power, in fome meafure, to make up for 
 this deficiency, by recording the objects that 
 occafioned them : and the diaries in which 
 thefe are comprehended, afford, at leafl to 
 him who takes the trouble of making them, 
 a very curious and mtereitingfubject of both 
 entertainment and improvement. If the un- 
 varied and uninterefting voids of life fliould 
 feem but little adapted to the compofition of 
 fuch journals, travels and voyages not only 
 furniih materials for collections of this kind, 
 but naturally induce rrien to make them. Jt 
 was merely with a view to that fpecies of 
 amufement which arifes from the recollec- 
 tion of interefting fcenes, and the emotions 
 which they excited at the time when they 
 
 paffed
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 paflcd under obfervation, that the Writer of 
 the following memorandums ever thought of 
 committing them to paper. And it is in the 
 importunity of friends, an apology that ought 
 not by any means to be accounted the lefs 
 weighty, that it is trite and common, (fince 
 nothing is more common than what is agree- 
 able to truth and nature) that he takes fhelter 
 from any charge that may be made of vanity 
 and felf- importance. 
 
 Accompanied by friends, whofe focial 
 fympathy enlivened the impreffions pro~ 
 duced by the varying fcenes through which, 
 we paiFed, I left Oxford, on the 17!! of May, 
 1785. Oxford and Cambridge may be jultly 
 confidered not only as venerable monuments 
 of antient times, but as a kind of garrifoas 
 eflablilhed by public authority, for the pre- 
 fcrvation of loyalty, literature, and religion. 
 If our univerfities may be thought, in fome 
 refpecls, to check and retard the progrefs of 
 knowledge, by means of fixed forms, laws, 
 and cuftoms, it is at lead equally certain, that 
 A 2 they
 
 ( 4 ) 
 
 they are falutary bulwarks againft the pre- 
 cipitate and defolating fpirit of innvovation. 
 The reverence paid by our anceftors to piety 
 and to learning, ftrikes us in Oxford as by 
 a fenfation, and mews how fit objects thefe 
 are of efteem and veneration to the common 
 fenfe of mankind. For different nations, 
 and races of princes and kings, have con- 
 curred, in the courfe of many centuries, to 
 pay homage to the fhrines of faints and the 
 feats of the mufes. It is not an eafy matter 
 to prevent or 'to make off a refpe6l for any 
 noble or royal family, whofe antient repre- 
 fentatives, the founders and benefactors of 
 the different colleges and halls, are brought 
 to remembrance by pictures, flatues, charters, 
 and ftately edifices. Thefe take fall hold of 
 the ductile mind of the ftudents, and are af- 
 fociated in their memory with many of the 
 moft pleafing ideas that have ever occupied 
 their minds. From impreffions of this kind, 
 a love of their early haunts and companions, 
 
 naturally
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 naturally aflbciated together in the imagi- 
 nation, is nourifhed in the breads of the no- 
 ble and generous youth, and alfo an attachment 
 to their king and country. Take away thefe 
 memorials of antiquity, thpfe noble and royal 
 teftimonies of refpecl to fanclity of life, 
 and proficiency in learning, remove every 
 fenfible object by which fentiments of early 
 friendfhip, loyalty, and patriotifm are kin- 
 dled and inflamed in young minds, and dif- 
 perfe our young noblemen and gentlemen in 
 other countries for their education, or even 
 in fepcirate little academies and fchools in 
 our own, and you weaken one of the great 
 pillars, by which the conftitution and fpirit 
 of England is fupported and perpetuated. 
 
 The univerfities, therefore, and the prac- 
 tice which ftill happily prevails, of educating 
 in thofe great and antient feminaries, the 
 Britifh youth of diftinclion, are of very great 
 political importance : nor would all the con- 
 fequences that might accompany or flow 
 from their fubverfion, a matter which has of 
 A 3 late
 
 ( 6 ) 
 
 late been talked of by certain political re- 
 formers and other agitators, be for the bet- 
 ter. 
 
 As to letters, although every man may 
 have a mafter in literature and in philofophy, 
 who is able to retain him, in the fame man- 
 ner that he can provide himfelf with a draw- 
 ing or fencing mailer, yet we are not by any 
 means to overlook the advantages arifing 
 from public libraries, a concourfe of learned 
 men for guides and companions, and alfo 
 the ufe to be made in great univerfities of 
 the principle of emulation. 
 
 The venerable genius of Oxford, infpiring 
 fuch reflections as thefe, feemed to hover 
 around us, until we arrived at Chapel-houfe, 
 a very good inn, where we dined. Vifit 
 Haythorp, the refidence of the Earl of 
 Shrewlbury, a very good houfe, elegantly 
 furnimed, and pleafantly fituated. The 
 ground around it is well laid out, but not 
 very extenfive. The avenue to the houfe, 
 which is upward of a mile long, is formed 
 
 of
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 of clumps of trees, inclofed by ftone walls 
 about five feet in heighth, which in England 
 are called ftone hedges, and in Scotland 
 dykes. Thde fences, if they do not beautify 
 and warm any country fo much as living 
 hedge-rows, poflefs this advantage, that they 
 may be quickly raifed, and, by the power of 
 money, almoft in an inftant. They do not 
 harbour flocks of birds j they may be built 
 where quickfcts will not grow, and they 
 take up but little of the ground, whereas a 
 ditch and hedge take up a great deal. In- 
 deed, in foils where ftone walls are more 
 eafily raifed than quickfet hedges, it may be 
 readily fuppofed that land is of no great va- 
 lue. But this will, in many inftances, be 
 found a rafh conclufion. Every foil may 
 be turned to great profit by fkilful agricul- 
 ture, provided only, that it be dry, as ftony 
 ground for the moft part is, or may ealily be 
 made. Where the land is covered, as it is 
 in many places, with loofe and detached 
 Clones, the induilrious improver gains at 
 
 A 4 once
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 once a two-fold object : he clears the ground, 
 and collects materials for building fences. 
 It is obferved that land, gained from over- 
 fpreading ftones, is uncommonly fertile. This 
 fact, which is well authenticated, is highly 
 deferving of the invefligation of chymifts. 
 I have alfo heard it affirmed, on this fubje6r, 
 that in fome foils the land is the mod fruit- 
 ful in oats, barley, and other grain, where 
 the expofure is backward, that is, where it 
 declines from the fun. 
 
 The foil in the neighbourhood of Hay* 
 thorp does not appear to be well calculated 
 for producing large timber. It may, how- 
 ever, be excellently adapted to the production 
 of other kinds of wood, both foreft and fruit 
 trees. It is common for men of large for- 
 tune to endeavour by all means, and at very 
 great expence, to raife by a kind of forced 
 culture, both exotic and domeftic plants. 
 And many adventurous farmers fight againft 
 nature, in attempting to raife wheat, or other 
 valuable crops, in foils fitted only for oats or 
 
 rye,
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 rye, or at beft, for peafe, or a light kind of 
 barley. To know the nature of the foil is 
 the firft thing requifite in an improver of the 
 ground : and it is by ftudying this above all 
 other things, that the man of fortune will 
 beft difplay his good tafle, and the farmer 
 incrcail; his flock, and fill his barns. 
 
 May 1 8th. Leave Chapel-houfe, pafs 
 through Long Compton, a very poor village, 
 and dine at Shipfton. The country between 
 and about thofe places is open, cold, and ill 
 cultivated ; the foil is a clay, and there are 
 no rivers. Here, it would feem, there is at 
 once great need, and great encouragement for 
 planting, which would give genial warmth 
 to the atmofphere, and, in the courfe of time, 
 convert the various influences of the hea- 
 vens into a nutritive, vegetable mould, which 
 being mixed with the clay foil, could not 
 fail to open and improve it. The trees pro- 
 duced would be of great value, as they would 
 not only be of ufe for building, firing, and 
 the fabrication of various utenfils necefFary 
 
 both
 
 ( to J 
 
 both for the purppfes of agriculture and 
 domeftic ceconomy, but might alfo be launch- 
 ed by the Avon into the Severn, and fo conr 
 veyed to fundry harbours and docks for ihip- 
 building. 
 
 In this bleak tract, ill cultivated and thinly 
 inhabited, it is not uncommon for the low- 
 eft or labouring clafs of the people, who find 
 little other employment in the depth of win- 
 ter than that of threfhing out corn, to lie 
 a-bed the greater part of the day as well as 
 the whole night, in order to fave fuel, and 
 to fpare their fcanty provifions. 
 
 Sleep at Stratford upon Avon. Some 
 good houfes in this town, which is of con- 
 fiderable extent, but in general ill built, and 
 very badly paved. The bridge here, laid 
 acrofs the Avon, confifts of fourteen arches, 
 but is very old. The town -ha] 1 is a hand- 
 fome room, in which is a picture of Shake- 
 fpeare, and another. of Garrick, by Gainfbo- 
 rough. Shakefpeare's monument in the 
 c hurch does but little credit to the artirt. 
 
 May
 
 May 1 9th. Leave Stratford, pafs 
 Henley, a long town j the houfes very indif- 
 ferent. Dine at Oakeley Moor-houfe, a 
 fmall but neat inn. The foil here is much 
 better than in the fouthern parts of War- 
 wickfhire > the country better cultivated, and 
 tolerably v/ell wooded. In the evening ar- 
 rive at Birmingham j but this being unfor- 
 tunately the time of their fair, we could not 
 fee any of the manufacturers at work. Vifit 
 Clay's manufactory for making tea-boards, 
 buttons, and other articles palled together 
 and dried. Vifit alfp Boulton's manufac- 
 tory for plated articles of all forts of fleel 
 and iron-work. This town is very extenfive, 
 and a great part of it elegantly built. It 
 contains upwards of one hundred thoufand 
 inhabitants ; but the people are all diminu- 
 tive in fize, and fickly in their appearance, 
 from their fedentary employment. In Bir- 
 mingham there is one very elegant and fpa- 
 cious church, three chapels, and eight meet- 
 ing-houfes for Diflenters. This town is far 
 
 from
 
 from being diflinguifhed by zeal in religion. 
 Dr. Prieftly's latitudinarian principles are 
 adopted by thofe who confider themfelves as 
 philofophers ; but the great mafs of the peo- 
 ple give themfelves very little concern about 
 religious matters, feldom, if ever, going to 
 church, and fpending the Sundays in their 
 ordinary working apparel, in low debauchery. 
 What religion there is in Birmingham 
 is to be found among the Diflenters. It 
 is well known that there are many coin- 
 ers of falfe money in Birmingham, a cir- 
 cumftance that is eafily accounted for, from 
 the nature of the bufmefs in which they 
 have been accuftomed to be employed. 
 It may be added, that there is a great deal 
 of trick and low cunning among the Bir- 
 mingham manufacturers in general, though 
 there are, no doubt, fome exceptions, as well 
 as profligacy of manners. This may be ow- 
 ing in part, to their want of early educa- 
 tion; for the moment that the children are 
 fit for any kind of labour, inflead of being 
 
 fent
 
 ( '3 ) 
 
 fent to fchool, they are fet to Tome fort of 
 work or other : but it is probably more ow- 
 ing to their being conflantly aflbciated toge- 
 ther both in their labouring and in their 
 idle hours. It is remarkable, that fociety 
 corrupts the manners of the vulgar as much 
 as it fharpens their underftanding. 
 
 About fifty years ago, there were only 
 three principal or leading ftreets in Birming- 
 ham, which at this day is fo crouded, and 
 at the fame time fo extenfive a town : a cir- 
 cumftance which illuftrates, in a very finking 
 manner, the rapid increafe of our manufac- 
 tures and trade in fteel and iron. It is not 
 above three years fince pavements or foot- 
 paths, formed of ftag-ftones upon the Lon- 
 don plan, were firft introduced in this place. 
 The ladies of Birmingham at firft confidered 
 thefe fmooth pavements as very great griev- 
 ances. They were not fo convenient, they 
 faid, as their old foot-paths, oreafy to walk on. 
 And this was the more remaikable, that the 
 {Ireets, fide-paths, and all, were not laid with
 
 good paving, but with round hard ilones 
 about the fize of large apples, and of courfe 
 fuch as appeared to ftrangers to be very trou- 
 blefome to the walker, and even painful. 
 
 The manufa6turers of Birmingham who 
 are generally accounted rich, are fuch as pof- 
 fefs fortunes from five to fifteen thoufand 
 pounds. A few are in poiTeffion of much 
 larger capitals : but in general, they may be 
 faid to be in eafy and flourifliing circurn- 
 Stances, rather than very rich or affluent. 
 The number of carriages kept by private 
 perfons has been doubled within thefe ten 
 years : fo alfo has that of the women of the 
 town. Thefe different fpecies of luxury feem 
 to have advanced in proportions pretty nearly 
 equal. The people of Birmingham have of-, 
 ten tried to eflablifli a cofFee-houfe ; but 
 'found this impofiible, even with the advantage 
 of a fubfcription. They generally refort to. 
 ale-houfes and taverns. According to the fize. 
 of the place, there fnould be feveral coffee- 
 lioufcs, taking our ftandard in this matter, 
 
 from
 
 ( '5 ) 
 
 from London. But the genius of Birming- 
 ham is not that of coffee-houfes ; at leaft, 
 the coffee-houfes of this day : though it 
 might be fuitable enough to that of thofc 
 defcribed in the Spectators and Tatlers. 
 The labouring and poor people of Birming- 
 ham fare but hardly ; their chief fuftenance 
 being bread and cheefe, and ale for which 
 they pay five-pence the quart, though this 
 meal ure is not fo large as a quart porter-pot. 
 There is a porter brewery at Birmingham, 
 the liquor produced by which is equal in 
 fcrength to that brewed in London, but fai? 
 inferior in flavour. 
 
 It is not above feventy years fince there 
 was any great variety of metal goods fabri- 
 cated here. Coarfe locks and hinges, with 
 common metal buttons and buckles, formed 
 before that period, the whole amount of the 
 Birmingham manufactures. But now, thefe 
 coarfe articles are manufactured in Wolver- 
 hampton, Walfal, Dudley, and other irnall 
 towns near Birmingham. The fine and fa- 
 
 fhionable
 
 (. 16 ) 
 
 fhionable goods are manufactured in the 
 town of Birmingham itfelf. In the country 
 round about are nailers and woodfcrew- 
 makers, who work in their own cottages, 
 and whofe prices are fo low, that they get 
 but very little money by all their labour. 
 The women and children, as well as the 
 men, are employed in the manufacture of 
 thefe articles. Sometimes the whole family 
 will be occupied in one branch of bufmefs, 
 which fuits well enough, as the father of the 
 family makes large nails, and the wife an4 
 children fmaller ones, according to their 
 Strength. This diviiion of labour in the 
 fame family, if iludied and practifed in dif- 
 ferent kinds of Britifh manufactures, might 
 in this country, as in India, expedite bufi- 
 nefs, and alfo improve the articles produced 
 
 ty 5t - 
 
 The induftry of the people in thofe parts 
 
 }s wonderful. They live here like the people 
 of Spain and other hot countries, rifing at 
 three or four o'clock in the morning, going 
 
 to
 
 ( '7' ) 
 
 to reft for a few hours at noon, and after- 
 wards working till nine or ten o'clock at 
 night. 
 
 It is exceedingly remarkable, and highly wor- 
 thy of obfervation, that induftry in manufac- 
 tures in the diftricts adjacent to Birmingham, 
 is wholly confined to the barren parts of the 
 country. This great town ftands on the fouth- 
 eaft extremity of a veiy barren region. On 
 the north and weft, but chiefly on the north- 
 weft, where the land is very poor, that is, on 
 the road to Wolverhampton and Shrewfbuiy, 
 the country is full of the moft induftrious 
 manufacturers in the coarfe branches of bu- 
 finefs, both in detached houfes, and in vil- 
 lages and fmall towns, for many miles : but 
 on the other fide, which is Warwick-fhire, as 
 you go from Birmingham towards Coventry, 
 Stratford on Avon, and Worcefter, a circle 
 including the points of eaft and fouth, and 
 nearly that of weft, where the ground is fer- 
 tile and well cultivated, there is fcarcely a 
 manufacturer to be found of any kind, and 
 
 B in
 
 in iron and fleel none at all; though yotl 
 come by degrees into the countries where 
 Spinning and weaving is carried on, manu- 
 factures of a lefs laborious nature than thofe 
 of fteel and iron. It might be thought at 
 firft fight, that the difference in queftion 
 might be accounted for, from the fmgle cir- 
 cumftance, that it is in the very centre of the 
 barren region that the pits are found, which 
 fupply the manufacturers- with the effential 
 and encouraging article of coal. But the 
 marked and fudden contraft between the 
 barren and the fertile difhicts, in refpect of 
 application and induitry in manufactures, is 
 not fully explained by this circumftance alone, 
 for within two miles of Birmingham, they 
 are on the one hand all farmers, and for twelve 
 miles on the other, they are all manufacturers. 
 The people of Birmingham, I fpeak of the 
 middling and ordinary clafs of manufactur- 
 ers, retain in many things, as has been alrea- 
 dy obferved in the inflance of their attach- 
 ment to taverns and other public houfes, the 
 
 man-
 
 ( '9 ) 
 
 manners of other times. They are expenfivc 
 in eating and drinking, and in clothes too. 
 But they give themfelves no trouble about the 
 (tile or mode in which they live. Men who 
 employ under them great numbers of work- 
 men, and who fpend from two to three hun- 
 dred a year, live in their kitchens, which 
 are kept remarkably clean however, in good 
 order, and well furnifhed. This is by no 
 means mentioned as a matter of either con- 
 tempt or reproach, but the contrary . There 
 is a natural and indeed neceflary connection 
 between induftry and ceconomy, as there is 
 between both and the profperityof a nation. 
 From the introduction of luxury and the de- 
 cay of manufactures, the United Provinces 
 have begun to decline in wealth, population, 
 and power. Indolence and pleafure, the pa- 
 rents of idlenefs and corruption, have begun 
 to fap the foundations of a ftate which was 
 raifed on induftry, temperance, and frugality. 
 The navigable canal which communicates 
 with the Trent and the Severn, terminates at 
 B 2 this
 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 this town. By this canal Birmingham is" 
 fupplied with almoft every article that is 
 wanted, and particularly with coals, which 
 are dug out of pits about eight miles diftant, 
 and which, by this mode of conveyance, are 
 rendered fo cheap, as to be commonly fold for 
 fix {hillings and eight pence per hundred 
 weight. The canal is about thirty feet wide. 
 The boats arefeventy feet long and five broad, 
 and will carry twenty-five tons, (the draught 
 of water being about four feet and an half) 
 
 which the canal will admit of when it is quite 
 
 ( 
 
 full. This boat is towed by a fmgle horfe. 
 
 May 2 1 ft. Leave Birmingham, and pafs 
 through Sutton, a very neat little town, fitu- 
 ated on an eminence commanding a very 
 pleafant profpecl ; the country around highly 
 cultivated and tolerably well wooded ; and ve- 
 getation much more forward than in the more 
 foutherly parts through which we had pafled. 
 There is not perhaps any fpot that can be 
 fixed on more centrical than this to the king- 
 dom of England, and at a greater diftance 
 
 from
 
 from the fea. Dine and fpend the evening 
 at Litchfield. 
 
 May 22d. Litchfield is a Imall city, well 
 built and plcafantly fituated. The cathedral 
 is fmall but very antient, and remarkable for 
 its three fpires, two of which are at the weft 
 end, and one nearly in the centre. There 
 arc no manufactures in this city : but it is the 
 refic|ence of fome genteel families with mid- 
 dling independent fortunes. This was the 
 birth-place of Dr. Samuel Johnfon, of whom 
 fo much has been faid, that it is but little that 
 can remain for the curiofity of his greateft 
 admirers. I was informed of two. fingula- 
 rities in this great genius, which, I think, 
 have efcaped the refearches of all his biogra- 
 phers. There is a great iron ring fixed by 
 aftaple in aftone in the centre of the market- 
 place, which formerly ferved as anecefiary in- 
 ftrument iuthe favage diverfion of bull-bait- 
 ing. When Johnfon happened, in his walks, 
 (for he paid an annual vifit to Litchfield) to 
 pafs by this fpot, he would frequently, in the 
 B 3 rnidft
 
 rnidft of thofe reveries in which he feemed to 
 be involved, flep afide, and {looping down, lay 
 hold of the ring and pull it about, as if he had 
 been trying whether he was able to extricate it 
 from the ftone in which it was fixed . The other 
 remarkable particular concerning Dr. John- 
 fon, which has not been mentioned by his nu- 
 merous biographers, is, that he made it a point 
 when he made his annual vifit to the place 
 of his nativity, to call on every per fon in that 
 city with whom he had the lead acquaintance ; 
 but that the inftant he knocked at the door, 
 he would without giving time for opening 
 it, pafs on to another, where he would- do the 
 fame thing : fo that it frequently happened, 
 that two or three fervants would be running 
 after the doctor, requefling that he would re- 
 turn to their matters or miftreiTes houfes, 
 who waited to receive him. The people of 
 Litchfield were long, I avoid {peaking in the 
 prefent time, ftrongly tinctured with Jacobi- 
 
 V 
 
 tifm. When the Pretender, at the head of 
 fome Highland clans, had marched in 1745 
 
 into
 
 ( 23 ) 
 
 into Lancafhire, the inhabitants of Litch^ 
 field, it is faid, waited for his arrival there, 
 in his progrefs to the capital, with impati- 
 ence. The profound reverence that John- 
 fon entertained for monarchical principles, 
 and hierarchical eftablimments, was in per- 
 fect conformity, and perhaps originally de- 
 rived from the genius that predominated in 
 the place of his nativity. 
 
 A very fmgular club is held annually at 
 Litchfield of females only. It confifts of an 
 hundred members and upwards -, and howe- 
 ver extraordinary this meeting may appear, 
 yet it feems to have been eflablimed from the 
 bell of motives, for I have been informed 
 that a confiderable fum of money is annually 
 collected and difhibuted among the poor of 
 the city. About a mile from Litchfield is 
 Barrow-cope Hill, remarkable for being the 
 jurying -place of three Saxon kings who were 
 (lain in battle. 
 
 May 23d. Leave Litchfield, and dine at Bur- 
 ton upon Trent, which we crofs about feven 
 B 4 miles
 
 ( 24 ) 
 
 miles from that city at Wichnor-bridge, and 
 a mile further, crofs the navigable canal 
 which goes to Derby. Ride by the fide of 
 this canal, about two miles, to the place where 
 it is carried over the river Dove, upon twelve 
 arches. To one who had never before feen 
 one river carried acrofs another, this appear- 
 ance naturally feemed extraordinary -, but 
 on examining the means, or mechanifm on 
 which it depended, wonder at the cffe6l was 
 loft in the contemplation of the caufe. 
 
 Burton is a pleafant well-built town : the 
 church a very neat one. A large cotton- 
 mill is erected here, worked by underfhot 
 wheels : we were not permitted to fee the 
 infide of it. There is a very good bridge at 
 Burton, of very great length. The country 
 between this town and Derby is highly cul- 
 tivated, well inhabited, and tolerably clothed 
 with wood, though the timber is not large. 
 All this country is remarkably full of thorn- 
 hedges. The town of Derby is much larger 
 than Litchfield, is adorned with many very 
 
 hand-
 
 ( 25 ) 
 
 handfome houfcs, and in general well built. 
 It is warned on one fide by the river Der- 
 went, on which is a very large filk-mill, I 
 believe, the firft which was built in this coun- 
 try. It is wrought by one wheel, of twenty- 
 four feet diameter, which gives aclion to one 
 "hundred thoufand movements. This mill 
 we were permitted to examine. Near this 
 complicated machine is the manufactory for 
 china ; the elegance, as well as expence of 
 which is well known. 
 
 May 24th. Dine at Derby. Ride to 
 Matlock-bath in the afternoon. About three 
 miles from Derby, the face of the country 
 changes all of a fudden, from a fine fertile 
 vale, well wooded and inhabited, which you 
 leave behind you, to high hills, to the north, 
 which are clothed to their very fummits with 
 excellent grafs. The inclofures here are 
 formed entirely of ftone, with which the foil 
 abounds, though it is by no means unfertile. 
 At Crumfortf, about a mile from Matlock, 
 the road is cut through a rock, juft wide 
 
 enough
 
 ( 26 ) 
 
 enough for a carnage to pafs. As foon as 
 you get through this, the view which pre- 
 (ents itfelf is highly curious and romantic. 
 Immediately below runs the river Derwent, 
 bounded on each fide by high and rugged 
 rocks, in fome places perpendicular, in others 
 covered with wood. The ride to Matlock 
 from this pafs, and all the dale, is equally 
 wild and romantic. We took up our quar- 
 ters at the 'Old Bath, which is kept by Mr. 
 Mafon, where we found good accommo- 
 dation. Our landlord behaved with great 
 civility, and was at great pains to, (hew us 
 the country all around 5 but I faw no fpot, 
 in this variegated region, which delighted 
 me fo much, or which appeared fo great an 
 object of curiofity, as the Vale of Matlock 
 itfelf. On the hill, towards the north-weft 
 of the village, are many mines which produce 
 lead, and alfo fome copper and antimony. 
 Some of the (hafts are dug to the amazing 
 depth of one hundred and twenty fathom, 
 ach of them being wrought, for the moft 
 
 part,
 
 ( 27 ) 
 
 part, by no more than two men, \vhofe pro- 
 fits and advantages are confiderable, when 
 they are fortunate enough to hit on a good 
 'vein ; and, being admitted as co-partners 
 \vith the proprietors, they are encouraged to 
 continue their refearches until they find 
 one. During the time of their fearching the 
 ground, for a courfe of metal, they receive 
 only one (hilling a day. Great advantages 
 are granted to thofe adventurers, as they are 
 allowed by law to try for one wherever they 
 choofe, on any man's eflate, gardens only ex- 
 ceptcd. And, if they are not fuccefsful, the 
 only redrefs the proprietor of the land can 
 have, is the power of compelling the miners 
 to fill up the fhaft again. This is a great 
 inconveniency to the gentlemen rciiding in 
 that part of the country. The method of 
 making thofe fhafts, which are not above 
 three feet wide, is, to put diagonal pieces of 
 wood into the fides. Thefe fupport the 
 earth where it is loofe, and at the fame time 
 afford fleps to go down by, as they feldorn 
 
 make
 
 ( 28 ) 
 
 make ufe of any rope or chain. This bufi- 
 nefs of mining affords many advantages, and 
 prompts to the ihidy of natural hiflory. 
 The nature and the arrangement of the mi- 
 neral ftrata, in the mines of Cornwall and 
 Devonshire, fuggefted their leading ideas to 
 Woodward in his Theory of the Earth, and 
 to Mr. Hutchinfon, who attempted to frame 
 a fyftem of natural philofophy, agreeably to 
 the writings of Mofes. If academies for ob- 
 fervation and experiments were eftablifhed in 
 the mining countries, philofophy might be 
 advanced thereby with greater rapidity than 
 has yet diftinguimed her progreffive courfe. 
 Lord Bacon juftly obferves, that if the kings 
 of Egypt had beftowed as great pains and ex- 
 pence in digging holes into the bowels of the 
 earth, as they did in raifmg thofe ftupendom 
 moles called pyramids, on its furface, they 
 would have rendered greater fervice to man- 
 kind, and acquired to themfelves jufter and 
 'more lafting fame. Such pits being dug to 
 {heir hands by private adventurers, it would ba 
 
 an
 
 ( 29 ) 
 
 ah honour to princes, as well as an acquifition 
 to the general ftores of knowledge, to ap- 
 point men of fcience to make obfervations on 
 the different fubftances brought to light by 
 the perfevering and penetrating induftry of 
 miners, in different parts of the world. 
 
 At Crumford are two very large cotton 
 mills, the property of Mr. Arkwright, which 
 he was fo obliging as to allow us to fee. To 
 attempt a defcription of a piece of mecha- 
 nifm fo curious and complicated, would be 
 vain. I can only fay, that the whole procefs 
 of cleaning, carding, combing, twitting and 
 compleating the yarn for the loom, feems to 
 be done almoft without human aid. The 
 different machines are prepared for working 
 chiefly by children, of whom Mr. Arkwright 
 employs at this place about one thoufand. 
 
 27th May. Leave Matlock, and go to 
 Afhbourn by Wirkfworth. The road is 
 good, but the country very hilly and dreary. 
 From Afhbourn we proceed to vifit Dove-Dale, 
 which is about two miles long. Through 
 
 thi s
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 this dale runs the river Dove ; and on each 
 fide of it, are many high and barren rocks, 
 which, to a man who has never viewed the 
 rugged face of nature, would appear tre- 
 mendous. I cannot fay that they had any 
 fuch effect on me. Fronl this dale we went 
 to Bakewell, a very poor ill-huilt town. 
 The little river Wye runs through Bakewell, 
 and about two miles below, glides through a 
 beautiful meadow, where there is a very old 
 houfe, called Haddow-Hall. Near this 
 town is another very large cotton mill, be- 
 longing to Mr. Arkwright's fon, apparently 
 as large as that at Crumford. 
 
 Saturday 28th May. Leave Bakewell, 
 andgotothe Duke of Devonshire's at Chatf- 
 worth. This place, from its fituation, feems 
 calculated fora refidence of only a few months 
 in the year. The country, about two miles 
 round the houfc, is well wooded, and by 
 great pains and induitry, highly cultivated. 
 But all the diilant hills within view of the 
 houfe, wear a dreary and difmal afpecl. 
 
 The
 
 ( 3* ) 
 
 The garden or pleafure ground, is confined* 
 and laid out with very little tafte : for tho' 
 there be a command of water from a fpring 
 on the hill behind the houfe, a fountain and 
 cafcade is exhibited, which, in the midft of 
 fummer, muft indeed have a pleafant appear- 
 ance ; but the fteps over which the water 
 runs being artificial, after having feen it 
 once, you ceafe to admire it. The houfe is 
 built of a dark yellow (lone, and the weft 
 front of it is very elegant. A pretty large 
 quadrangle is formed in the centre, which 
 makes the rooms dull and gloomy. Some of 
 the apartments are fpacious and lofty, but ill- 
 furnifhed, and without any hiftorical picture 
 that is worthy of notice. The river Der- 
 \vent, which runs through the park, has a 
 pleafing effect, and a bridge, thrown over it, 
 which leads to the houfe, does great credit 
 to the architect. It confifts of three arches, 
 which are truly elegant. Though this houfe 
 and the garden be fituated in a low vale, yet 
 the gardener told us, that it is impoflible to 
 
 ripen
 
 ripen fruit here, without hot walls, The 
 chapel is very fpacious, as well as elegant. 
 Some of the trees are nine feet in circum- 
 ference j but thefe are chiefly firs, and have 
 been long planted. 
 
 Dine at Stoney Middleton, a very poor 
 village, and ride afterwards to Buxton 
 through Middleton-Dale, which very much 
 refembles Dove-Dale, except that it is not 
 watered, like that valley, by any river. 
 Having paiTed through this dale, we afcend- 
 ed a very high hill, which commands a moft 
 extenfive though barren and fulien profpect : 
 not a tree to be feen, and the tops of the 
 hills bare rocks, although the fides of thefe 
 towards their bafes, and the finall vallies be- 
 tween, are covered with veiy good verdure. 
 The inclofures in this dreary tract are very 
 fmall, formed of ftones piled up into walls, 
 to clear the land, and to fcreen the cattle. 
 And fuch as this is the whole country 
 around Buxton. This place, from the effi- 
 jcacy of its waters, has grown into a large 
 
 ftraggling
 
 ( 33 ) 
 
 Draggling village. The houfes are ch'efly, 
 indeed I may fay folely, built for the accom- 
 modation of invalids. The Duke of Devon- 
 fhire has lately built fome elegant houfes in 
 form of a crefcent, which has a very pretty 
 appearance. This building, I was told, 
 Would coft the Duke about 50,000!. But I 
 fliould imagine, he will never get tenants 
 for all thofe houfes, as I can fcarcely fuppofe 
 it poffible, that any perfon would refide at 
 Buxton but from neceffity ; to receive bene- 
 fit from the water, which, in all rheumatic 
 cafes, is certainly very efficacious . The bath is 
 about the 8zd degree of heat, and very plea- 
 fant to the feeling of every perfon that enters 
 it. Near Buxton there is an hill, in the bowels 
 of which feveral hundred people find daily 
 employment. 
 
 Monday, 3oth May. Leave Buxton, and 
 gotoCaftlctown, apoorfmalltown, inhabited 
 chiefly by miners. Near to this place is the 
 celebrated cavern called the Devil's A fe, the 
 mouth of which is really tremendous, bc- 
 C
 
 ( 34 ) 
 
 ing fourteen yards in heighth and depth, and 
 ten yards wide. After having advanced to 
 the end of the mouth, you are conducted 
 through a fmall door, which leads you into 
 the cavern. At 450 yards from the entrance 
 you come to the firrt water, the roof of the 
 rock gradually floping till it comes within 
 about two feet of the furface of the ftream 
 which pafles through the cavern. This wa- 
 ter is to be erofied by lying down flat, in a 
 fmall boat, on fome ftraw. The boat is pufh- 
 ed forward by the guide, until you get through 
 this narrow and low place, which is about 
 four yards long. After landing on the other 
 fide, you come to a cavern feventy yards 
 wide and forty yards high, in the top of which 
 arefeveral large openings ; though the candles 
 were not fufficient to enable us to fee their 
 full extent. Having eroffed the water a fe- 
 cond time, on the guide's back, you come 
 to a cavern called Roger Rain's houfe, be- 
 c:iufe from its roof there is a continual 
 dropping of water. At this place you are 
 
 enter-
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 entertained by a company of fingers, who 
 have taken another path, and afccndcd 
 a place called the Chancel, about thirty 
 higher than the place on which you Hand -, 
 where, with lights in their hands, they fmg 
 various fongs. The effect of the whole is 
 very (hiking. The water is, in all, crofted 
 feven times ; but you can ftep over it, except 
 at the two iirft places. At one place, the 
 ilream is loft in a quick-fand, but emerges 
 again at a great diilance, without the ca- 
 vern. The whole extent of this extraordi- 
 nary fubterraneous place, as meafured by 
 Sir Jofeph Banks, is 617 yards, and at the 
 further! end, is upwards of 200 yards from, 
 the furface of the earth. At this fpot the 
 rock comes down, and clofes with the waier, 
 fo as to preclude all farther paifage: but, as 
 there was reafon to believe, from a found that 
 was conftantly heard, that there was a cavern 
 beyond this boundary, a gentleman, about 
 four years ago, was determined to try if he 
 could not dive under the rock, and rife in the 
 C 2 cavern,
 
 ( 36 ) 
 
 Cavern, on the other fide. With this 
 rate refolution he plunged in with his feet 
 foremoft ; but, as was expected, ftruck his 
 head againft a rock. In this ftate he remain- 
 ed a confiderable time, till at laft he was 
 dragged out by the hair of the head. About 
 the middle of the old cavern, the man who 
 fhews this place, hasr found out another paf- 
 fage, in a different direction, which he calls the 
 New Cavern . Into this we went, with difficul- 
 ty, about an hundred yards $ but the ftones were 
 i'o loofe under our feet, and the roof of the ca- 
 vern, in feveral places, fo low, that we did not 
 choofe to take the trouble of going farther, 
 though the guide fays, that its extent is near 
 200 yards. This man is fo eager in purfuit 
 of new wonders in this cave, that I ihould not 
 be in the leaft furprifed to hear of his being 
 buried or drowned in it ; for in winter, the 
 whole of this fubterraneous place is fometimes 
 full of water, as clearly appears from a great 
 quantity of mud and fand which flick to the 
 rocks on all fides. It is indeed the paffage of 
 
 the
 
 ( 37 ) 
 
 the water that has evidently been the caufc 
 of this natural curiofity. This has wafhed 
 away, in the courfe of time, the mud and 
 fand which filled the cavities of the rocks, 
 and thus fcooped thofe vacant fpaces which 
 form the caverns. 
 
 If this tremendous cave were properly 
 lighted up, and mufic placed m different 
 parts, with the witches in Macbeth and their 
 cauldron, and other infernal agents and ma- 
 chines, fuch as are introduced on the ilage, 
 a more wonderful effect might thereby be 
 produced, than has ever refulted from any 
 mimick or natural fcene. 
 
 Above the mouth of this cavern is the 
 ruin of a very old cafik. 
 
 On the fbuth fide of Caftletown ilands 
 Man-to rr, a very high hill, one fide of which 
 appears to be mouldering faft away. On 
 the top of this hill are the remains of a Ro- 
 man encampment, and near its hafe is a coal 
 mine. The coals are conveyed in boats, under 
 ground, near a mile, to the bottom of an 
 C 3 hill,
 
 hill, and then put into carts. Each of thofe 
 boats carries about a ton. From Caflktown 
 proceed to Chapel-in-Frith, a fmall neat 
 town : fleep at the George Inn, where there 
 is moft excellent accommodation. 
 
 Tuefday, 3 i ft May. Leave Chapel-in-Frith, 
 and ride through Whaley and Stockport, to 
 Manchefren After afcending the hill above 
 Whaley , the face of the country affumes a 
 iiew and more pleafmg afpecl, being chang- 
 ed from rugged rocks and lofty mountains, 
 to fertile vales and beautiful woods. The 
 whole country, for a great many miles round 
 Manchefter, is exceedingly well cultivated, and 
 fertile. This town is old, and of large ex- 
 tent ; and in the fktrts of it, you are ilruck 
 with the appearance of many elegant houfes. 
 But, on the whole, it is not fo large, or fo 
 well built. as Birmingham. The road from 
 Stockport to Manchefter, a ftretch of nine 
 miles, is paved, 
 
 Wednefday, ift June 'Manchefter. Not- 
 withftanding what I have faid of the town 
 
 of
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 of Manchefter, the induftry in thcmanufac- 
 tures carried on here and in the neighbour- 
 hood, cannot fail to excite the moft agreeable 
 emotions in the minds of all Britons. And, if 
 it be inferior to Birmingham in refpccl of 
 extent, and of building, it is fuperior to it 
 in point of police or internal regulation, and 
 alfo in the ftile or mode of living. The 
 
 o 
 
 population of this great town is not lefs 
 than 75,000. There are not fo many people 
 of middling fortunes as in Birmingham, but 
 there are more perfons who have great for- 
 tunes : a circumftance which is to be ac- 
 counted for, from the nature of the Man- 
 chefter manufactures, which cannot befo well 
 carried on as thofe of Birmingham, by tradef- 
 men of fmall capitals. The manufacturers 
 of Manchefter live like men of fortune, which 
 indeed they are. 
 
 The greateft part of the people are en- 
 gaged in fome ufeful art, but principally in 
 finifhing the goods that are manufactured in 
 the neighbourhood. The mills, which I have 
 Q 4 before
 
 ( 40 ) 
 
 before mentioned, prepare the cotton for the 
 weavers, and Manchefler completes the work. 
 From hence the goods are carried to every 
 part of the world ; the conveyance of thefe 
 being greatly facilitated by the communica- 
 tion which the canals afford with the fea, on 
 either fide of the ifland. 
 
 Manchefler is the beft regulated town in 
 England, though, like Birmingham, it is not 
 governed by magiftrates of its own, or a 
 town-council, but by the gentlemen of the 
 town, who are at great pains to eflablifh 
 order and good manners among the lower 
 people, by good regulations. The people, 
 again, being moflly weavers, and confequent- 
 ly, orderly and domeilic, are very t; aclable, 
 and fufceptible of good government. The 
 work-houfe here pays better, I believe, than 
 any in England. The poor inhabitants earn, 
 on an average, four pence a day, though in 
 rnany others they fcarcely gain a farthing. 
 
 Theftreets are paraded every Sunday, dur- 
 ing the time of divine fer vice, by conflables, 
 
 who
 
 who take all ftraggling perfons into cuftody\ 
 Disorderly houfcs are fearched once in every 
 eight or ten days, about nine or ten o'clock in 
 the evening, care being taken not to let it be 
 known when the fearch is to be made. And, 
 as all this is done not by trading jufrices, and 
 other fellows in office, but by gentlemen, it 
 anfwers the purpofc of preferring order, 
 without buflle, expence, or oppreflion. 
 
 The fpirit of enterprize is extended, in 
 Manchester, from manufactures and com- 
 merce to mechanical invention, and from 
 thence to philofophy in general. They 
 have, in this exemplary community, a phi- 
 lofophical focicty, who purfue literature and 
 fcience with all the ardour that is natural to 
 new eftablifliments ; and alfo a mufic room, 
 and regular concerts, ornaments of which no 
 other manufacturing town in England can 
 boaft. When the manufacturers of this 
 kingdom were in danger of f offering by the 
 Iriih propofitions, the town of Manchefter 
 took the lead in oppofmg them, and contri- 
 buted
 
 ( 42 ) 
 
 tmted twice as much as all the kingdom be- 
 fides, to the fupport of the manufacturers 
 who efpoufed their caufe. It is remarkable, 
 that in this elegant and well regulated 
 town, the inns are the moft inconvenient, 
 incommodious, and in all refpecls the worrt 
 that can be well imagined. The hotel is 
 indeed better, though not by any means very 
 good : nor will it at all ferve the purpofe of 
 travellers who flop on their journey only for 
 2 fhort time. The women of Manchester, 
 2nd indeed of all Lancamire, are efteemed 
 handfome, and in this refpecl, the title of 
 witches may be beftowed on them without 
 great impropriety. 
 
 Thurfday, the 2d of June. Go to Wor- 
 iley in the Duke of Bridgewate-r's pafTage- 
 boat, by his canal, which has been of fo great 
 fervice to Manchefler, and all the adjacent 
 eountry : the diftance ten miles. At Wor- 
 (ley is the mouth of the funnel which leads 
 to the Duke's coal mines. This funnel, 
 which is five feet high, and. fix feet broad, 
 
 goes.
 
 ( 43 ) 
 
 goes two miles under ground. At one thou- 
 fand yards from the entrance, a fhaft is dug 
 to clear the mine from foul air. Several f 
 thole fhafts are dug at various diftanccs, for 
 the fame purpofe. This mode of giving 
 vent to the foul air, has been found necef- 
 fary, as many fatal accidents have happened 
 from the damp air, and fometimes explofions 
 which have deftroyed many of the people 
 who wrought in thofe mines. I could have 
 wiflied to enter this fubterraneous paffage 
 myfelf, but was told that there were no people 
 at work, and that the air was fo foul, that it 
 would be too dangerous. The boats which 
 go through this fubterraneous navigation, 
 are of two fizes : the fmallefr, two and an 
 half feet wide, and twenty feet long ; the 
 largeft, five feet broad, and fifty feet long, 
 carrying about twenty-five tons of coal. 
 The miners receive from twenty pence to 
 three (hillings a day, according to the quan- 
 tity of coals they dig, aad they work only 
 eight hours. I am told that 250 tons of 
 
 coals
 
 ( 44 ) 
 
 oals are brought out in a clay ; and that 
 above 300 men are conftantly employed in 
 this bufmefs. After the coals come through 
 
 o 
 
 this fubterraneous pafTage, they are carried 
 to Manchefter and other towns, in the fame 
 boats. Sometimes they are put into larger 
 ones, and conveyed to all parts of the coun- 
 try j to Warrington, to Runcorn, and, by 
 the Merfey to Liverpool. 
 
 Return to Manchefter by the canal, jn thp 
 fame boat, which carries at leaft fixty paf- 
 fengers, and is perfectly commodious and 
 convenient, having two cabbins in it, for the; 
 accommodation of different clalles of people ; 
 and it is fo Veil regulated by the Duke, that 
 no improper company can go in it, as he 
 has given orders to the boat-mafter to return 
 them their money, and to fet them on fhore, 
 provided any of the pafiengers are guilty of 
 improper conduct. 
 
 Friday, the 3d of June. Leave Manchef- 
 ter, and go by the Duke of Bridgewater's 
 canal twenty- five miles, to Warrington. 
 
 This
 
 ( 45 ) 
 
 This canal is very wide, and capable of 
 conveying boats of five feet draught of 
 water. Thefe boats are about fixty feet 
 long, and ten feet broad. Sleep at War- 
 rington, a large and well built town. The 
 principal manufacture carried on here, is 
 that of canvafs. The original maker of 
 .crofs-bows firft refided in this town, and the 
 .fame bufinefs is ftill carried on by fome of 
 his family. 
 
 Saturday, the 4th of June. Leave War- 
 rington, and go to Liverpool, through Pref- 
 jcott, a neat little town, commanding a beau- 
 tiful view of a veiy rich and well cultivated 
 country. This profpedt is bounded on the 
 ibuth-weft by the Welch mountains, which 
 appear very high and rugged. Liverpool is 
 a town well known for its maritime enter- 
 prize and extenfive commerce. The old 
 part of the town is ill built, and the ftreets 
 rather narrow. Great additions have been 
 lately made to it, and many elegant houfes 
 
 are
 
 ( 46 ) 
 
 are erected in its neighbourhood. Here are 
 fourteen building yards, and three of the 
 in oft commodious and complete bafons for 
 receiving fhips I ever faw. Thefe bafons are 
 capable of holding near 400 vefTels, from 
 500 tons downwards ; and can, if neceilary, 
 receive any friip, as there is twenty feet wa- 
 ter at the dock gates. Here are alfo two 
 dry bafons at low water, by which the fhips 
 enter from the river, and go into the in- 
 ner bafons, where they are conftantly kept 
 a-float, and can be completely laden, and go 
 to fea without anchoring in the river. 
 Thefe bafons are furrounded with excellent 
 ware-houfes, and fpacious keys for landing 
 the goods. In fiiort, I will venture to affert, 
 that Liverpool is the moft complete com- 
 mercial fea-port in Great Britain. All the 
 works juil mentioned have been completed 
 by the Corporation, who are very rich ; and, 
 I make no doubt, confidering its extenfive 
 commerce, but they have an ample intereft 
 
 for
 
 < 47 ) 
 
 for the money they have fo laudably ex- 
 pended. 
 
 The Duke of Bridgewater has a dock and 
 ware-houfe here, where the vefFels which 
 come through his canal are repaired. In 
 Liverpool there are five churches, and about 
 70,000 inhabitants. The Duke of Rich- 
 mond has creeled a fort at the weft end of 
 the town, which appears to be an ufelefs pro- 
 fufion of the public money ; for the entrance 
 into the river is fo intricate, that it is almoft 
 impoflible for the enemy to annoy the town. 
 On the eail fide of Liverpool is a terrace, 
 commanding a delightful view of the town, 
 the river, and all the neighbouring country. 
 This place is called the Mount, where there 
 is a very good inn. 
 
 Monday, the 6th of June. Leave Liver- 
 pool, and go to Ormjkirk, by the Wigan 
 canal, a diftance about twenty-five miles. 
 Several boats are kept on this canal for the 
 convenience of parTengers, but they are by- 
 no
 
 ( 48 ) 
 
 v no means fo well regulated as the boats on 
 the Duke's canal ; for we were witnefFes of 
 much diforder, and very improper conducl, 
 which mure make thofe vehicles very un- 
 pleafant to females. This canal muft have 
 been made at much lefs expence than the 
 Duke's, as the country through which it 
 paries is very level, and not interfered by any 
 confiderable rivers. The bridges are made 
 of wood, and turn on a centre, by means of 
 a circular iron, and iron wheels. Thefe 
 bridges are constantly out of repair, and are 
 attended with confiderable expence. The 
 Wigan canal was intended to have been 
 carried to Leeds ; and accordingly, the coun- 
 try was furveyed, and the level traced for 
 this purpofe. But an hill, near Whatley, 
 I am told, is an infurmountable obflacle to 
 the accomplifhment of this project. This 
 canal, I have been informed, does not, at 
 prefent, return upwaids of two per cent, to 
 the proprietors. The chief article that is 
 carried on it, is coals. 
 
 From
 
 ( 49 ) 
 
 From Ormfkirk go in a poft chaife to 
 Prefton : the country between which places 
 is low and fandy. This tract affords not 
 any ftriking profpecl ; but it is well cul- 
 tivated, and appears to be good grazing 
 ground. Prenron is a very old town, fitu- 
 ated on an eminence, commanding a pleafing 
 profpecl: all around it, but more particularly 
 from that point from whence you view the 
 feat of Sir Harry Hough ton, on the banks 
 of the river Kibble, which winds prettily 
 round the eminence on which it is fituatcd, 
 and the diilant hills in the weft craven of 
 Yorkfhire bound the view. 
 
 Tuefday, the 7th of J une. Leave Prefton, 
 and go on to Gaiitang. The road between 
 thefe places is exceedingly good ; the coun- 
 try well cultivated; much pafture land, but 
 little corn ; and no timber, all the trees be- 
 ing cut off by the weflerly winds. Dine at 
 Lancafter, an old and ill built town, and the 
 ftreets very narrow. The caftle, which is fi- 
 tuated on an eminence that commands the^ 
 D town,
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 town, was built by Agricola ; and, though 
 it bears all the marks of antiquity, yet feema 
 to be in a perfe6l ftate. This is now the 
 county jail, which we vifited, and were hap* 
 py to find the prifoners well lodged, and 
 kept clean. Lancafter has been a place of 
 confiderable trade, but feems now on the 
 decline. The view from the caftle is very 
 extenfive, but by no means pleafant. 
 
 Wednefday, the 8th of June. Sleep at 
 Hornby. About three miles from Lancafter, 
 enter the vale of LonfHale, which is very 
 beautiful. On the right is a barren ridge of 
 mountains; in the middle runs the river 
 Loon, through rich and fertile meadows ; 
 and on the left the hills are covered with hang- 
 ing wood y the whole form ing a moft delightful 
 and charming view. The village of Horn- 
 by is fmall, and the houfes are very indiffe- 
 rent. Near the town is a very old caftle, 
 belonging to Mr. Charteris, from whence 
 there is a moft beautiful profpect of three 
 rivers, the vale, and diftant barren mountains. 
 
 The
 
 The caftle is now uninhabited, and falling to 
 ruin. Leave Hornby, and ride by the fide 
 of the river Loon, to Kirby-Lonfdale, the 
 moft picturefqe, perhaps, and delightful 
 ride in Britain. Kirby-Lonfdale is a neat, 
 well built little town, fituated on an emi- 
 nence 5 and the river Loon runs clofe beneath 
 it, through a rich and well cultivatd vale. 
 The adjacent and lower hills are finely covered 
 with wood; and behind thefe, high and crag- 
 gy mountains areprefented to our view, def- 
 titute of trees, and of every kind of vegetation 
 or verdure. The contrafl between the bold 
 and barren rocks, on the one hand, and the 
 verdant woods and luxuriant vale, on the 
 other, heightens the rude majefty of the for- 
 mer, improves the fwelling foftnefs, and 
 the richnefs of the latter, and on the whole, 
 forms the moft delightful view I ever beheld. 
 Thurfday, June 9th. From Kirby-Lonfdale 
 proceed to Kendal, fituated on the river Ken, 
 a town of confiderable extent and of great 
 D 2 anti-
 
 ( 52 ) 
 
 antiquity. A great number of people are 
 employed here in the manufactures of cotton 
 and woollen cloths, a great part of which 
 is carried to Liverpool, from whence it is 
 exported to the Weft Indies and to Guinea. 
 This town abounds with tanners. 
 
 To the north-earl of Kendal, on an high 
 eminence, which, in the fouthern and eaftern 
 parts of England, would be called an hill, 
 are the ruins of a very old caftle, with a 
 deep ditch around it, of a circular form, and 
 veiy fpacious within ; its diameter being 
 near 150 yards. Three bridges are built 
 over the river. The low land in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Kendal is fertile, but it is fur- 
 rounded by barren mountains and craggy 
 rocks 
 
 Leave Kendal, and pafs through a country, 
 than which one more barren, hilly, and 
 dreary, cannot be imagined. Ride to Bow- 
 nefs. About a mile from this place we dif- 
 mount from our horfes, and afcend an hill 
 covered with rude and craggy rocks, which 
 
 com-
 
 ( 53 ) 
 
 commands a view that exceeds all defcription. 
 From this point is feen the greater part of 
 the Windcrmerc Lake, and ten iflands. On 
 the largeft of thefe there is an houfe, built 
 in a circular form, at prefent belonging to a 
 Mr. Chriftian, who purchafedboth illand and 
 houfe for 1,700!. This ifland is not only 
 beautiful in itfelf, from a variety of grounds, 
 and clumps of trees, but it is fo happily (itu- 
 ated as to command a view of many of the 
 enchanting objets on this lake. The other 
 iflands are much fmaller than this, but have 
 a charming effec~l from being richly adorned 
 with wood. The margin of this lake is fur- 
 rounded with rich meadows, fertile hills, and 
 beautiful woods, with perpendicular preci- 
 pices, and oki yews and hollies growing out 
 of the fiflures of the craggy rocks j all of 
 them fo curioufly mixed and interfperfed, and 
 reflecting their images fo accurately and fo 
 clearly in the ti anfparent expanfe below, that 
 it would be difficult to conceive how nature 
 Jicrfdf could form a more captivating fcene. 
 D 3 From
 
 ( 54 ) 
 
 From different points of view, thofe natural 
 beauties fhew themfelves in different fhapes. 
 Some of the abler! pens have been employed, 
 and the imagination of the poet has been 
 racked, to give a defcription of this beautiful 
 difplay of nature ; but language is unable to 
 convey the emotions that this fcene excites, 
 even with the aid of the moft faithful pencil, 
 Therefore, whoever wimes to have a juft 
 conception of Windermere Lake, and its fur- 
 rounding beauties, muft view them on the 
 fpot. 
 
 Friday, June loth. Crofs the ferry from 
 Bownefs, and walk to Hawks-head, about 
 four miles diftant. This village is fituated 
 at the upper end of Eftwait- Water, which is 
 about two miles in length, and half a mile 
 broad, furrounded with fine woods and fer- 
 tile meadows. At the upper end of this 
 piece of water is a good houfe, called Bel- 
 mount, commanding a view of the whole. 
 In the afternoon we went to the head of 
 Coniflon Lake, but a thick fog coming on 
 
 fuA,
 
 ( 55 ) 
 
 fuddenly, we were deprived of the plea- 
 fure of feeing it, and obliged to return to 
 Bownefs bv Amblefide and Low-wood Inn : 
 
 v 
 
 but the fame fog which prevented us from 
 feeing Conifton Lake, hindered us alfo from 
 feeing the adjacent country. 
 
 Saturday, June i ith. Leave Bownefs, and 
 ride to the fouth end of Windermere. The 
 road is exceedingly good, and carried within 
 a quarter of a mile of the lake, from one 
 end to the other, fometimes through delight- 
 ful woods, where, for a fhort time, the water 
 and fur rounding hills are hid from your 
 view j but the water and oppofite fhore now 
 and then appearing, as you advance, through 
 the trees. Sometimes you ride over fertile 
 and beautiful vales, and frequently under 
 high mountains, whofe cliffs hang over the 
 road. There is not any part of this ride, 
 which is continued for fourteen miles, that 
 is not highly piclurefque, and fitted to afford 
 the mofl foothing ideas and exquifite gra- 
 tification. 
 
 D 4 Return
 
 ( 56 ) 
 
 Return by Bownefs, and go to Low-wood 
 Inn to dinner. This inn is fituated about 
 two miles from the north end of the lake, 
 clofe upon its banks, and commands a pro- 
 fpecl of all the upper part of the lake, and as 
 far down as Windermere Ifland, with feveral 
 of the fmaller iilands around it. But from 
 this point they are fhut in with the furround- 
 ing head-lands, and lofe their infular appear- 
 ance, by which the beauty of the profpecl is 
 confiderably diminifhed. 
 
 Sunday, June i2th. Having met with a 
 difappointment in our attempt to fee Co- 
 niflon Lake on Friday, and being determined 
 to have a view of all the beauties which this 
 extraordinary country affords, we ride to 
 Conifton in the morning, which is at a dif- 
 tance, from Low-wood Inn, of nine miles. 
 The road is not very good, but the far- 
 rounding fcenery is fo intcrefling, that we 
 had but little time to look down. After 
 riding about feven miles, we got to the top 
 of an hill, from whence Conifton Lake is 
 
 to
 
 ( 57 ) 
 
 to be feen in its full extent. It is a beautiful 
 fheet of water, (unrounded by rich meadows. 
 The lower parts of the adjacent mountains 
 are well covered with wood. There is, 
 however, by no means fuch variety in the 
 fccncry here as in Windermere, The hills 
 ;ie a more regular appearance in their 
 fummits, and reach, in general, to the wa- 
 ter's edge in a more gentle defcent. The 
 want of iflands, too, is a great deficiency. 
 Conifton Lake fliould be feen before Winder- 
 mere, as it certainly has great beauties, 
 though by a comparifon with Windermere, 
 they are confiderably leflened. The north 
 end of Conhlon Lake is very bold and (hik- 
 ing : and here we admire the fituation of 
 Coniflon-Hall, on an eminence, and fur- 
 rounded with fine hanging woods, with rich 
 pafture land below, reaching to the edge of 
 the lake. Behind and above the hall, feveral 
 mountains rife with tremendous majefly, 
 craggy, bleak, and barren ; from the bofoni 
 of one of which a cataract iflues, which, in 
 
 wet
 
 Wet weather, muft add confiderably to the 
 grandeur of the fcene. 
 
 Return to Low-wood to dinner, and in the 
 evening walk to the upper end of Winder- 
 mere. About two miles up in this ro- 
 mantic vale, is a houfe belonging to Sir 
 Michael Le Fleming, called Rydal-Hall. In 
 this vale runs the river Rothay, winding 
 through beautiful woods and verdant mea- 
 dows, till it falls into the lake. On each 
 fide of the river are flupendous, black, and 
 barren rocks. Clofe by Rydal houfe is a wa- 
 ter-fall, where Sir Michael Le Fleming has 
 built a fmall houfe, in a moft fequeflered and 
 convenient fpot for enjoying it. The fall is 
 jndeed nothing extraordinary, as it does not 
 exceed twelve feet : but the noife of the wa^ 
 ter, and the dark (hade of the trees around, 
 form a gloomy fcene, which fills the mind 
 with a pleafing melancholy. 
 
 Monday, June i3th. Leave Low-wood 
 Inn, and ride through Amblefide to Kefwick, 
 a fmall village, at the head of Windermere 
 
 Water,
 
 ( 59 ) 
 
 Water. Pafs by Sir Michael Le Fleming's 
 feat j and, at the diftance of a quarter 
 of a mile, enjoy a charming view of Ry- 
 dal-Water, in which are feveral beautiful 
 illands ! A little further on is Rydal-Pafs, 
 from which you look down upon a fmall 
 lake, called Grafsmere, in a mod fertile vale, 
 furrounded by mountains. A few miles 
 from hence is Thirl mere, or Thirl- Water, a 
 delightful lake, extending through a vale 
 about four miles long. Near the middle of 
 this lake, a promontory extends from each 
 fide, and confines the water to the fize of a 
 fmall river, over which is a ruftick bridge. 
 Afcend an high hill, from whence there is a 
 moft tremendous view of a deep and difmal 
 glen, through which we parted, and afcended 
 another mountain, where the eye is delighted 
 with the enchanting view of Kefwick-Vale, 
 the nobie lake of Dei-went- Water, and part 
 of Baflenthwaite. This vale in circum- 
 ference includes about twenty miles, and the 
 land is exceedingly fertile. 
 
 Dine
 
 f 60 ) 
 
 Dine at' Kefwick, a neat little town, fitu- 
 ated at the north end of the lake. The af- 
 ternoon was fpent in rowing about upon this 
 beautiful fheet of water, which is three miles 
 long, and one and an half wide. Four 
 iflands, called Pocklington's, Lord's, St. Her- 
 bert's, and Rapfholm, add greatly to the 
 beauty of this water. Some are covered 
 with verdant turf j others are planted with 
 various trees. On Pocklington's Ifland is an 
 elegant modern-built houfe, the ground about 
 >vhich is laid out with much tafle. After 
 having viewed the magnificent profpecls 
 around this lake, from different flations, the 
 rugged and perpendicular rocks of Barrow- 
 dale, and the verdant bofom of SkiddaWj re-, 
 turn to our inn at Kefwick, and, 
 
 On Tuefday the 1/j.th, ride to the top of 
 Skiddaw, which I believe is computed to be 
 about 1,000 or 1,100 yards perpendicular 
 from Der went- Water. This mountain is by 
 no means difficult of accefs, and is covere/d 
 with grafs, which gradually grows coarfer 
 
 as
 
 as you afcend, till you come within a quar- 
 ter of a mile of its fummit, where it is very 
 fleep, and where the atmofphere is fo ratified,. 
 as to prevent vegetation. The whole top of 
 the mountain is covered with a loofe brown. 
 jdaty flone, upon which it is difficult to walk. 
 On reaching the fummit, we were deprived 
 .of having the view we expected, of the fur- 
 rounding country, which in clear weather 
 muft be very extenfive ; but unfortunately at 
 this time, all the diftant objects were ob- 
 fcured by a thick haze. Return to Kefwick. 
 
 Wednefday, the 1 5th. Go in a boat to the 
 upper or fouth part of the lake, and vifit the 
 romantic regions of Barrowdale, where there 
 is fuch. a mixture of tremendous and beau- 
 tiful fcenery, as perhaps no other fpot on 
 earth can exhibit. To defcribe the com- 
 ponent parts which form the wonderful 
 whole, would require the genius of Thomfon 
 or Salvator Rofa. 
 
 In this vale is a remarkable mine, where 
 an abundance of mineral earth, or hard {hm-
 
 ( 62 ) 
 
 tling ftone, is found, which we call black 
 lead, and which is fold for ten ihi] lings per 
 pound. This is faid to be the only mine of 
 the fame kind in Europe. It is opened once 
 in five or feven years, and a fufficient quan- 
 tity taken out to anfwer all the purpofes to 
 which it is applied for that period of time. 
 
 Through the vale winds the River Der- 
 went, which forms the lake, and afterwards 
 pafles into BafTenthwaite- Water. After hav- 
 ing fpent the morning in this delightful vale, 
 return to an houfe called Low-dore Inn, 
 which is fituated clofe by a celebrated fall of 
 water, called by the fame name. The ca- 
 taract falls from a vail heighth, through a 
 large chafm, from one craggy precipice to 
 another, until it is loft in the lake. After 
 heavy falls of rain, this natural exhibition 
 mufl be tremendous. Return in the even- 
 ing, with reluctance, to Kefwick. 
 
 After viewing this elyfium, which affords 
 the greateft gratification to every traveller, 
 we could not avoid indulging one melan- 
 choly
 
 ( 63 ) 
 
 choly reflexion that the defcendants of the 
 anticnt proprietors fhould ftill be deprived 
 of their birth-right. The liberality of the 
 Britifh parliament has been nobly exercifed, 
 in returning the forfeited eftates in Scotland. 
 It is to be hoped, that the fame benevolence 
 will be extended to the family of Radcliff. 
 
 Thurfday, June i6th. We ride to Ulls- 
 Water, at the diftance of fifteen miles, a 
 great part of the way over a dreary moor, 
 and the country round very barren. In this 
 moor we were caught by a violent hail ftorm. 
 Being entirely expofed, we were obliged to 
 turn our horfes backs to the ftorm, and to 
 ftand ftill till it pafled over ; for the hal- 
 ftones were fo large, that it was impofiible 
 to face it. Dine at Pulobridge, a very bad inn, 
 where we could not get any beds. Go on 
 five miles, and fleep at Penrith. 
 
 On Friday I7th, return to Ulls-Wa- 
 ter. Ride on the fide of the lake, five miles, 
 to Lyulph's Tower, an houfe lately built by 
 Lord Surrey, (now Duke of Norfolk) in 
 
 form
 
 ( 64 ) 
 
 i 
 
 form of a caftle, for the accommodation of 
 his friends, and thofe who go to fee the lake. 
 The conftruclion of this houfe is very whim- 
 fical. It has two circular turrets. In the 
 centre, which is flat, is an enormous win- 
 dow, which ferves to light feveral rooms 
 within the turrets, which are large enough 
 for bed-rooms. The outfide of the building 
 is quite in the ftile of an old caftle; and viewed 
 from the water, has a very pretty effect. 
 Leave our horfes at Lyulph's Tower, and go 
 to the upper end of the lake in a boat. Re- 
 turn to the tower to dinner, which was a 
 very decent one, and recommended by a very 
 kind reception. After dinner, walk about a 
 mile from the tower, up a dale, where there 
 is a cafcade. This fall is much fuperior to 
 any that I have feen in this country, being 
 fifty feet, and having a greater body of water 
 in it. 
 
 Ulls-Water is fixty fathom deep, and in 
 many places very fteep. It is about ten 
 miles long, and nearly three miles broad, and 
 
 has
 
 ( 65 ) 
 
 has more the appearance of a lake than 
 any of the others, as you can look over, 
 at one view, a greater expanfe of water. 
 Like the others, it is furrounded by high 
 mountains and perpendicular rocks ; and, 
 in many places, are yews, holly, and birch, 
 apparently growing out of the folid mafs of 
 flone : fome young, and in a flourifhing con- 
 dition ; others worn out with age. On the 
 banks of the lake there is a great deal of paf- 
 ture, and fome arable land. There are fe- 
 veral good houfes here, fituated fo as to com- 
 mand moft beautiful views. The land alfb 
 round the lake is well wooded. But in general, 
 Ulls- Water is by no means fo well adorned 
 with wood as the other lakes, particularly 
 Windermere. At the upper end, however, 
 there is a remarkably fine wood, reaching 
 from the water's edge nearly to the furnmit 
 of the mountain, which is, at leaft, one thou- 
 fand feet high. This wood confifts of holly, 
 birch, yew, and oak ; and though none of 
 E the
 
 ( 66 ) 
 
 the trees are large, it neverthelefs makes a 
 beautiful appearance. At this end of the 
 lake there are three little iflands, or rather 
 rocks, covered only with a few fhrubs ; and 
 at the fartheft extremity is a little village, 
 called Patterdale, furrounded by fine wood 
 and rich meadows. A river runs through 
 this village, which falls into the lake. In an 
 old ruinous houfe there lives a mifer, who 
 calls himfelf the King of Patterdale. 
 
 In the evening we return by water, to the 
 fouth end of the lake, which is adorned by a 
 beautiful hill, belonging to Mr. Haflel, called 
 Dunmallet. This hill is covered with a va- 
 riety of trees, and the different fliades of 
 green have a pleafmg effect. Sleep at Pen- 
 nth. Between this place and Ulls- Water, 
 the country is well cultivated, and enriched 
 by feveral gentlemen's feats, with large plan- 
 tations about them > among which are the' 
 antient feats of the Earl of Surrey and Lord 
 Lonfdale : the former called Grey-Stock 
 Park, the latter Lowther-HalL 
 
 Satur-
 
 ( 6; ) 
 
 Saturday, 1 8th June. Penrith is a neat 
 well built little town. On an eminence are 
 the remains of an old caftle. The church is 
 a very handfome and fpacious building. In 
 the church-yard there are two very remark- 
 able flones, about eight feet high, and fif- 
 teen feet afimder, with three very curious 
 ones between, put edgeways, and joined at 
 the top. This, I foppofe, has been the bury- 
 ing place of fome antient warrior ; but the 
 antiquarians have not been able to decypher 
 the inscription, or to trace the antiquity of 
 the monument. On an high hill, to the 
 north of the town, {lands a watch-tower, or 
 beacon, built entirely of ftone, which com- 
 mands a very diftant view of all the country 
 round, and was formerly intended to give the 
 alarm of the approach of an enemy. To the 
 north-eaft is a range of very high mountains, 
 called Crofs Fells, or the Britiih Alps, on 
 which the fnow, in large quantities, is very 
 vifible. In fome places, I am told, it- re- 
 r.iains all the year round. Dirje at Penrith, 
 E 2 and
 
 ( 68 ) 
 
 and ride to Carlifle in the evening. The 
 country between thefe two towns is very ca- 
 pable of cultivation, and actually undergoing 
 rapid improvement. In this tract of coun- 
 try, there is much corn land j and, about 
 Carlifle, there is a great extent of rich 
 grazing land, on both fides of the river 
 Eden, which runs by the town. 
 
 Sunday, i9th June. Carlifle is a city of 
 confiderable extent, furrounded by a wall 
 thirty feet high, which is going faft to decay. 
 At the north end of the town {lands the 
 caflle, the rudeft heap of flones that were ever 
 piled together by the induftry of man. 
 There are four old invalids who take care 
 of the ammunition kept in it, of which 
 there is a confiderable quantity, and 500 
 Hand of arms. On the walls are mounted 
 thirty guns, from fix to twenty-four poun- 
 ders, and among thefe the guns with which 
 the town was reduced in 1745, by the Duke 
 of Cumberland. The ditch around the 
 
 caftle
 
 cattle is a filthy ftagnated pool. Between the 
 old citadel or caftle, and the walls and 
 mote by which it is feparated from the 
 town, is a declining bank, on which there 
 is a row of trees, planted by the hands of 
 the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, when 
 a prifoner in Carlifle. There are many 
 very good houfes in this tpwn, though, 
 in general, it is very ill built, and exceflively 
 dirty, from the circumftances of its being 
 furrounded by a wall, and having only a few 
 outlets. Over the river, which is pretty 
 large, are thrown two very elegant bridges. 
 The cathedral is an handfome old building, in 
 the Gothic ftyle ; the ftone of a brick-dun: 
 red, like the cathedral of Litchfield. Near 
 this edifice there is a very modern church, 
 which looks on the outfide more like a ball- 
 room than a place of worfhip. 
 
 Dine at Carlifle, and in the afternoon, 
 croffing the fands at the tipper end of Sol- 
 Firth, enter Scotland, and pafs on to 
 E 3 Annan,
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 Annan, which is dLftant from Carlifle eigh- 
 teen miles. 
 
 The land between the Solway Sands 
 and Annan, is very poor, being chiefly a 
 black gravel, and bog, producing nothing 
 but heath. The country here is for many 
 miles low and flat, but the road exceedingly 
 good. The town of Annan is finall, but 
 very neat. It is fituated on an eminence 
 above the river of that name, which winds 
 prettily through the meadows below the 
 town. Thefe, near the banks of the river, 
 produce good grafs. Immediately on crof- 
 iing the Solway Firth, we found the children, 
 and even many of the men and women, 
 without either fhoes or (lockings. The cot- 
 tages are miferable huts, made of mud, in- 
 termixed fometimes with round ftones, (fuch 
 as are found in the beds of rivers, and as 
 you meet with in tracls that have, in the 
 lapfe of time, fuffered the influence and 
 agency of water) and covered with turf. 
 
 Sleep
 
 ( 7' ) 
 
 Sleep at Annan, where there are two very 
 good inns, particularly the Queenfherry 
 Arms ; and after dinner, 
 
 On Monday, the 2oth June, ride in the 
 afternoon, eighteen miles, to Dumfries. On 
 the road from Annan to this place, as from 
 the Solway Sands to Annan, the cottages are 
 built of mud, and covered with turf or thatch, 
 the pooreft habitations that can be imagined, 
 and extremely dirty. The inhabitants are 
 turned yellow with the fmoke of the turf, 
 which is their only fuel. A fimilar effecl, 
 I have been informed, is produced, by the 
 fame caufe, on the inhabitants of North 
 Holland. The connection between climate, 
 foil, food, vegetable effluvia, and other phy- 
 fical caufes, and the complexions or colours 
 of man, and other animals, is for the moft 
 part as myfterious as it is various ; but 
 here it is abundantly manifeft. Till you 
 ome within two miles of Dumfries, the 
 Jand is fo exceedingly bad, that it muft baffle 
 cyerv effort towards cultivation. It feems to 
 E 4 pro-
 
 ( 72 ) 
 
 produce nothing but peat, which is cut here, 
 in large quantities, and fupplies all the coun- 
 try round. Dumfries is a pretty large town, 
 and very clean. It is fituated in a low vale. 
 The lands about it are tolerably well culti- 
 vated. About three miles from it there is a 
 fmall houfe of the Duke of Queenfberry's, 
 with fome large plantations of fir, which 
 appear to thrive extremely well. 
 
 Tuefday, 2ift June. Leave Dumfries in 
 the morning ; pafs Lord Hopetoun's houfe, 
 around which we find fome tolerable woods ; 
 but the adjacent country is very barren. 
 The farm houfes are in general miferable 
 huts, the people very poor, and the lower 
 clafs of females exceedingly dirty. The old 
 women, frightful enough of themfelves, are 
 rendered ftill morefo by their drefs, the outer 
 garment being a long dirty cloak, reaching 
 down to the ground, and the hood drawn 
 over their heads, and moft of them without 
 fhoes and Blockings. Others among them 
 wear what they call buggers, that is, flock-
 
 ( 73 ) 
 
 ings with the feet either worn away by 
 long and hard fervice, or cut from them on 
 purpofe : fo that the leg is covered by thefe 
 uncouth teguments, while the foot, that 
 bears the burden, and is expofed to brakes 
 and {tones, is left abfolutely ba~e. In 
 the winter, efpecially in the highland and 
 mountainous parts of Scotland, which in- 
 clude extenfive regions on its fouthem bor- 
 ders, the old women and men very generally 
 wear a kind of boots or hofe formed of a 
 coarfe thick woollen cloth, or ferge, which 
 they call plaiding, and which they roll in 
 folds, one above another, for the fake of 
 heat. In the Low Country of Scotland, 
 there are many diftrifts, where the old men 
 yet wear around their loins leathern belts or 
 girdles, fattened by an iron or brafs buckle, 
 which, as we learn from fculpture and paint- 
 ing, fo late as towards the end of the laft 
 century, were very commonly worn even by 
 the Scottish gentlemen. Near Lord Hope- 
 toun's is a remarkable arch thrown over a 
 
 deep
 
 ( 74 ) 
 
 deep glen, a very rapid river precipitating 
 itfelf about fixty feet beneath, through large 
 rocks, which, in winter, cannot fail to make 
 a tremendous appearance. Between Dum- 
 fries and Moffat, a fpace pf twenty-one 
 miles, there is not an houfe in which you 
 can find any accommodation that is to- 
 lerable. 
 
 Dine at MofFat, a very fmall town, witfy 
 feme tolerable houfes in it, which are let to 
 invalids who come to this place for the be- 
 nefit of the water. Here are two fprings, 
 one of them the ftrongeft mineral in Britain, 
 and of a very bracing quality. It is about 
 four miles from the town. The other, 
 which is of a milder nature, and now com- 
 monly ufed, is about a mile diitant, and iffues 
 out of a rock about thirty feet high, by the 
 fide of a deep glen, at the bottom of which 
 there runs a ftrons: ftream. The former 
 
 m* 
 
 fpringhas been greatly injured by the admif- 
 fion of another ftream into it, which has 
 deprived it of two thirds of its qualities. 
 
 MofFat
 
 ( 75 ) 
 
 Moffat is furroundedby high hills, and wa- 
 tered by the river Annan, here only a fmall 
 flream . The land, except that near the tops of 
 the hills, feems very capable of cultivation, and, 
 fuchas by induftry, might produce good corn ; 
 for, wherever an attempt has been made, it 
 feems to have been attended with fuccefs : but 
 their chief attention, in this part of the coun- 
 try, is beftowed on the rearing of fheep, 
 which is done with lefs trouble, and with 
 greater certainty of profit or fuccefs. But, 
 I fhould think, that the culture of grain and 
 the breeding of iheep might be happily united ; 
 and that the land in thefe parts might be 
 made more profitable, than it is in its pre- 
 fent flate, both to the landlord and tenant, 
 by enclofmg the lower parts of the hills, and 
 fcreening them from the rudenefs of the cli- 
 mate by trees. For in this barren tra<5t, there 
 is fcarcely a tree or wood of any kindtobefeen, 
 except a plantation of firs to the north of the 
 town, which are yet in their infancy, but which 
 clearly prove that trees will grow, if the in- 
 habitants
 
 ( 76 ) 
 
 habitants will only take the trouble to plant 
 them. There is a good houfe here, belong- 
 ing to Lord Hopetoun ; and the next beft 
 is the inn, where there is good accom- 
 modation, and an ordinary, as at Matlock 
 and Buxton. 
 
 Wednefday, 22d June. Leave Moffat, 
 and afcend an hill, which is nearly three 
 miles in height. From this height you 
 have a moft extenfive and dreary pro- 
 fpec~l of the Weft Highlands, without fo, 
 much as one fingle tree or fhrub to be feen, 
 which ever way you turn your eye, for thir- 
 ty miles around. 
 
 Ride fifteen miles to Elvan-foot, with this 
 dreary wafte on every fide. Crofs a bridge 
 over the River Clyde, and arrive at a mife- 
 rable cottage, called an inn, where, notwith- 
 (landing its appearance, we got a tolerable 
 dinner, and fome very good wine. There is 
 an houfe here, belonging to Mr. Irvine, 
 which is falling faft to ruin. This inn, and 
 a blackfmith's fhop, are the only habitations 
 
 to
 
 ( 77 ) 
 
 to be feen in all this country, except a few 
 temporary fhepherds huts. This place may 
 fuit the tranfient purpofes of a traveller, on a 
 fine fummer's day, which this happened to be; 
 but in winter, it cannot be better defcribed 
 than by the following lines : 
 
 Wou'd Heaven, to punifti fome abandon'd wretch, 
 Turn the dread vengeance to its utmoft ftretch, 
 Let him, in cold October's wintry ftorm, 
 Where fullen heaths the fulky hills deform, 
 To bleak Drumlanrig * on an hack repair. 
 Delug'd with floods of rain, and flicker there ; 
 Or Ihould this curfed doom be too feverc, 
 Let the vile mifcreant find a refuge here. 
 
 Among thefe mountains, and only two or 
 three miles from each other, the Annan, the 
 Clyde, and the Tweed, the principal rivers in 
 the fouth of Scotland, derive their fource. 
 Moft of the mountains are covered, even to 
 their fummits, with tolerable grafs. But 
 they feed nothing upon them but iheep, and 
 thefe, by no means in proportion to the ex- 
 tent 
 
 * The Duke of Queenlberry's feat.
 
 tent of the country. The proprietors of 
 land in the North and Weft Highlands of 
 Scotland have of late converted large tracts 
 to the rearing of fheep, that had in all former 
 times been given up to the breed of black 
 cattle. It is for the land-holders and tenants 
 in the South Highlands of Scotland to con- 
 fider, whether it would not be for their inte- 
 reft, in like manner, to employ certain por- 
 tions of their pafture lands, in the breed of 
 horned cattle, efpecially as they have a great 
 advantage over the farmers of the north and 
 the weft parts of the country, in their vicinity 
 to England. At Elvan-foot is an handfome 
 bridge over the Clyde. 
 
 In the afternoon ride to Douglas-Mill, 
 through the fame kind of wild country, four- 
 teen miles. At this place there is a tolerable 
 inn. About two miles from Douglas-Mill, 
 ftands the antient Caftle of Douglas, fitu- 
 ated on a fmall river of the fame name. Of 
 the old caftle there remands only part of one 
 turret. Near the fame fpotlthere is a new 
 
 caftle,
 
 ( 79 ) 
 
 caftle, which, however, is not completely 
 finifhed. This, I fuppofe, was intended to 
 be like the old one ; but three turrets only, 
 and part of the body of the caftle, is all that 
 is completed. Many of the rooms -are fpa- 
 cious and lofty, but not well executed. The 
 turrets are circular, and have handfome 
 rooms in them, on each ftory, which, in the 
 upper ftory, are very convenient, being con- 
 verted to the purpofe of drefling-rooms for 
 the bed-chambers. If this houfe, or caftle, 
 were finifhed, it would be a magnificent 
 building : but 1 do not find that Mr. Dou- 
 glas ever intends to live in it. The park, 
 which is nearly three miles round, is well 
 tt^ planted, and many of the trees are very 
 old. But all the country around, far and 
 near, is open, and, for the moft part, no- 
 thing but fheep-ground. About a mile 
 from the caftle is the village of Douglas. 
 
 Thurfday, June 23d. Leave Douglas- 
 Mill, and go to Lanerk. Having travelled 
 
 about
 
 about three miles, we fall in with the Clyde, 
 the banks of which are under tolerable cul- 
 tivation, and in fome places prettily adorned 
 with hanging woods. In this ride, the coun- 
 try improves every mile, and begins to be 
 enriched by feveral gentlemen's feats, with 
 plantations about them, which, after the 
 wide waftes and dreary folitudes lately tra- 
 verfed, affords a pleafmg relief to the eye, 
 and wears the appearance of comfort. On 
 the right hand, about five miles from Lanerk, 
 is a feat of Lord Hyndford. A mile fur- 
 ther, crofs a very elegant bridge, of five 
 arches, over the Clyde. Nearly two miles 
 from Lanerk, we get out of the chaife, and 
 walk about a mile out of the road, to an 
 houfe called Corra Lynn,* belonging to Sir 
 John Lockhart Rofs - 3 clofeby which are the 
 
 Falls 
 
 * It is to this fcene that Allan R.amfay alludes, as to the 
 >greateft poflible hyperbole, when, in his Elegy on John 
 Cowper, a burlefque poem, he fays, 
 
 O ! could my tears like Clyde down rin, 
 
 And make a noife like Corra Lynn.


 
 ( 8i ) 
 
 Falls of the Clyde, which exhibit the firft 
 fcene of this kind in Great Britain. Many 
 circum fiances concur to render thefe fublime 
 falls beautifully picturefque : woody banks, 
 the romantic face of the country, and the 
 form of the rocks over which they dafli, fo 
 varied, as to give the aweful torrent the grand- 
 eft, as well as the mofl diverfified appear- 
 ance. At the Corra Lynn, the river, which 
 is very large, is precipitated over a folid rock, 
 not lefs than 100 feet; and, at Stone -Byers, 
 about a mile higher up the Clyde, there is 
 another fall, of about fixty feet, where the 
 river, confined within a narrow bed, makes 
 one entire ihoot over the rock. At both 
 thefe places, this great body of water, rufh- 
 ing with horrid fury, feems to threaten de- 
 ftruclion to the folid rocks that enrage it by 
 their rcfiftance. It boils up from the ca- 
 verns which itfelf has formed, as if it were 
 vomited out of the infernal regions. The 
 horrid and inceilant din with which this is 
 accompanied, unnerves and overcomes the 
 F heart.
 
 heart. In vain you look for cefTation or reft 
 to this troubled fcene. Day after day, and 
 year after year, it continues its furious 
 courfe 5 and every moment feems as if wea- 
 ned nature were going to general wreck. 
 
 At the diftance of about a mile from this 
 aweful fcene, you fee a thick fmoke afcending 
 to Heaven over the {lately woods. As yo*j. 
 advance you hear a fullen'noife, which, foon 
 after, almoft fluns your ears. Doubling, as 
 you proceed, a tuft of wood, you are ftruck 
 at once with the aweful fcene which fuddenly 
 burfts upon your aftoniftied fight. Your 
 organs of perception are hurried along, and 
 partake of the turbulence of the roaring wa- 
 ters. The powers of recollection remain 
 fufpended, for a time, by this fudden fhock ; 
 and it is not till after a confiderable time, 
 that you are enabled to contemplate the fub- 
 lime horrors of this majeftic fcene. 
 
 It is a certain truth, that fuch falls of 
 water as thefe, exhibit grander and more in- 
 terefting fcenes than even any of thofe out- 
 rageous
 
 rageous appearances that are formed by 
 florms, when unrefifted by rocks or land, in 
 the troubled ocean. In the fea, water rolls 
 heavily on water, without offering to our 
 view any appearance of inherent impetuofity : 
 we defideratc the contraft of the rocky (hores, 
 and there is not any fuch horrid noiie. 
 
 The cafcade at the Corra Lynn, though it 
 falls from the greateft altitude, and in one 
 uninterrupted fheet, is narrow in proportion 
 to its height : that at Stone-Byers, though 
 not much more than half the height of the 
 other, has fomewhat in it of greater gran- 
 deur. It is three times as wide ; its mafs is 
 more diverfified ; its eddies more turbulent 
 and outrageous ; and, without being divided 
 into fuch a number of parts as might take 
 any thing from its fublimity, it exhibits a 
 variety of forms that give a greater appear- 
 ance .both of quantity and of diforder. 
 
 In the Corra Lynn, juft where the water 
 begins to fall down the horrid deep, there 
 Jftands on a pointed rock a ruined caftle, 
 
 which
 
 ( 84 ) 
 
 which about fifty years ago was inhabited. 
 In floods, the rock and caftle fhake in fuch a 
 manner as to fpill water in a glafs. Imagi- 
 nation can fcarcely conceive a fituation more 
 awefully romantic, or, before the ufeof gun- 
 powder, more impregnable. Sir John Lock- 
 hart Rofs has an houfe on the verge of this 
 matchlefs fcene. 
 
 On the edge alfo of this ftupendous fall 
 of water, flands a mill, whofe feeble wheel 
 feems ready to be dalhed in pieces, even by 
 the fkirts of its foam, 
 
 The walk between the higher and the 
 lower falls, is extremely beautiful and ro- 
 mantic. The rocks, on each fide of the 
 river, are an hundred feet high, and covered 
 with wood. It runs alfo over a bed of foJid 
 rock, in many places broken, and worn into 
 large cavities by the violence of the water, 
 which, from a variety of interruptions, af- 
 fumes a variety of directions, and in other 
 places forms numberlefs inferior cafcades. 
 The two principal falls, when the river is 
 
 full.
 
 full, are tremendous beyond defcription. In 
 the fummer months, the quantity of water 
 which it contains, is not generally fo great 
 as to prevent the curious traveller from 
 making fo near an approach, as may enable 
 him to take a minute and accurate furvey of 
 its beauties. 
 
 From the Corra Lynn the Clyde con- 
 tinues to run for feveral miles, between 
 high rocks covered with wood ; and on 
 either fide are feveral good houfes, very 
 pleafantly fituated, and the land about them 
 well improved. We dined at Lanerk, which 
 is delightfully fituated on the brow of an hill 
 above the Clyde, which commands a very 
 pleafing profpect. Lanerk is a borough 
 town, but fmall and ill built j and the inha- 
 bitants appear to be rather in a ftate of po- 
 verty. In the evening go to Hamilton, a 
 neat well-built town, with fome very good 
 houfes in it. The inn here, where we flept, 
 Js a very good one. It is kept by a Mr. 
 Clarke, from London. At the end of this 
 F 3 town
 
 . ( 86 ) 
 
 town is the Duke of Hamilton's houfe, 
 which forms three fides of a quadrangle, 
 placed in a very low filtration. Some of the 
 rooms in it are large and fpacious, but in ge- 
 neral, not well furniihed. Among the pic- 
 tures which adorn this place, there is one 
 which is indeed capital, namely, Daniel in 
 the Den of Lions. On a hill in front of the 
 houfc, is a fanciful building in the (Hie of a 
 caflle, where there are two or three fitting 
 rooms, which command a very pleafant 
 profpecl. The reft of the building is allot- 
 ted to fervants, and other purpofes. Here 
 the Duchefs has a very pleafant flower-gar- 
 den, and notwithstanding the height of the 
 fpot, every thing in it was very forward at 
 this time, and all the flowers of the feafon in 
 full bloom. From this building is a delight- 
 ful ride of eight miles, on the verge of a fine 
 wood, which hangs over the River Clyde. 
 In a part of this ride we palled by a number 
 of oaks, of much greater antiquity than any 
 we had feen iince we entered Scotland. Near 
 
 thefe
 
 thefe venerable trees, and on the top of a 
 rock which hangs over the river, are the 
 ruins of the old caille of the Hamiltons. 
 Of this ilruclure little now remains, except 
 the gateway. Here we were fhewn fome of 
 the original cattle of the country, lineally 
 defcended from the wild ones, but which, 
 like their prefent mailers, have now grown 
 tame and civilized. At the Duke's houfe is 
 a moil excellent garden of feven acres, well 
 flocked The walls are covered with fruit 
 trees, which are in a very flouriming flate, 
 and which exhibit not any fymptoms of the 
 bad climate complained of in this country. 
 Cherries and ilrawberries were at this time 
 quite ripe ; and moil other fruits were brought 
 to maturity, in their proper feafon, without 
 the aid of art, which was not the cafe at the 
 Duke of Devonshire's, in Derbyihire. At 
 the Duke of Hamilton's there is alfj a good 
 hot-houfe and green-houfe. 
 
 Saturday, the 25th of June. Leave Ha- 
 milton, and proceed to Glafgow, a very plea- 
 F 4 fant
 
 ( 88 ) 
 
 fant ride, through a well improved country, 
 of eleven miles, part of it on the banks of 
 the Clyde. About three miles from Hamil- 
 ton is Bothwell-Bridge, where a famous 
 battle was fought in 1651, between the Loy- 
 alifts and Scotch Covenanters. About two 
 miles from this is Both well Caftle, belonging 
 to the Douglas family, which is a great an-, 
 tient tower, exactly in the ftile, as well, as 
 correfponding in magnitude, to the old 
 Welch catties. The walls of this large ftruc- 
 ture, .a great part of which is ftill Handing, 
 were fixty feet high, and fifteen thick. This 
 enormous mafs, in one part, crufhed its 
 foundation, and rock and cattle, in one place, 
 fell down together in the Clyde. This 
 breach in the foundation was afterwards 
 filled up, and the wall that had fallen re- 
 built. This caflle formed an oblong fquare, 
 or internal quadrangle, with a round turret 
 at each corner, three of which are ftill entire; 
 but all the internal part is demolifhed. In 
 the centre of the building flood the citadel, 
 
 or
 
 or keep, which was the moft inacceflible part 
 of the caftle. The windows were placed very 
 high, the hottoms of them being at leaft fifteen 
 feet from the ground j and all of them looked 
 into the fqnare, or area. The elevated fitu- 
 ation of the windows, as well as their inter- 
 nal afpect towards the great court, were pre- 
 cautions, we may prefume, againfl the arrows 
 or other mifTile weapons which might be 
 thrown into them by an enemy. Qn the fame 
 principle we may account for the elevated 
 pofition, as well as the narrownefs of the 
 windows, in all other antient edifices. On 
 the oppofite fide of the river, are to be feen 
 the remains of the beautiful Caftle of Blan- 
 tyre, belonging to the nobleman of that 
 name. Between this monastery and Both- 
 wcll-Caftle, there was a fecret and fubter- 
 raneous communication, below the bed of 
 the Clyde : fo that the antient Douglafles 
 were fecurcd by the architecture, and the re- 
 ligion of the times, as well as the valour of 
 their arms . Near this Mr. Douglas has lately 
 
 built
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 "built a very commodious as well as elegant- 
 houfe, in the modern ftile, on a fite that 
 commands a view of both the Clyde and the 
 old caftle. 
 
 Dine at Glafgqw, a large and well built 
 city, containing about 50,000 inhabitants. 
 'A confiderable trade has been carried on here, 
 in tobacco and rum, from the Weft Indies 
 and Virginia j but it is now confiderably di- 
 mrnifhed. The capitals, however, the mercan- 
 tile habits, and the adventurous fpirit of the 
 people are ftriking with fuccefs into new paths 
 of induftry. The cotton manufactures, par- 
 ticularly, are increafmg here daily, and efpe- 
 cially thofe of nankeens, which are of as 
 good a fabric as thofe of China. 
 
 The college of Glafgovy is about the fize 
 of the fmalleft at Oxford, and is capable of 
 admitting a confiderable number of ftudents, 
 although only eight or ten live in it, the reft 
 being difperfed in private lodgings in the city. 
 There are -profeilbrs here, of all the fciences, 
 many of whom, as Simfon, Hutchinlpn, Smi.tli, 
 
 Mirny
 
 ( 9' ) 
 
 Muir, Millar, and Reid, arc celebrated in the 
 republic of letters. The difperfion of the 
 (Indents in private quarters, here as at E- 
 dinburgh, prevents that monafric difcipline 
 which is flill preferved, in fome degree, in the 
 two other Scottifh univerfities of inferior 
 renown. But, to balance this difadvantage, 
 if it be a difadvantage, in Edinburgh and 
 Glafgow , the faculties have flill fome regard 
 to decency, and to the name and dignity 
 of their refpective univerfities, in granting 
 literary degrees. 
 
 The principal of the college of Glafgow 
 enjoys an annual falary of 500!. The other 
 profeflbrs have from 2 to 3005 but the pro- 
 filer of divinity has nothing; though he is 
 always provided for by fome other confident 
 and collateral office, either in the church or 
 univerfity, or both. In the other Scotch 
 univerfities, fmall falaries are allowed to the 
 profeflbrs of divinity, as well as houfes and 
 gardens : but, then, they are uot permitted, 
 
 like
 
 ( 92 ) 
 
 Jike the profeflbrs of literature and philofo- 
 phy, to take any fees from their pupils; 
 which, according to the nice and delicate 
 feelings of the Scottifli reformers, would be 
 a fpecies ofjimony, or felling the Holy Ghofl 
 for money. 
 
 The college garden is pleafant, though not 
 very extenfive. The library, which is a to- 
 lerable room, contains about 3,000 volumes. 
 
 In the city of Glafgow there are eleven 
 kirks, befides fundry conventicles and meet- 
 ing houfes. The Eighty-five Societies, or fel- 
 low (hip-meetings of the handicraftfmen of 
 Glafgow, and chiefly the weavers, in which 
 they inftrudt one another in metapyfical no- 
 tions in theology, are celebrated by the peti- 
 tions prefented to parliament by Lord G. Gor- 
 don. In fuch, and fo extenfive a city, lying 
 in the fouth- weft quarter of Scotland, it is not 
 to be wondered, that there is not a little gri- 
 mace and hypocrify. It is not many years 
 fince the magiftrates of Glafgow, humouring 
 the aufterity of certain of their clergy, and 
 
 the
 
 ( 93 ) 
 
 the general prejudices of the people, were 
 wont to be very rigid in enforcing a judai- 
 cal obfervance of the fabbath. The elders, 
 a clafs of men in Scotland that feem to unite 
 in their perfons fomewhat of the authority of 
 curates, conftables, and church-wardens, ufed 
 to fearch, on the Sunday evenings, the public 
 houfes ; and if any perfon, not belonging to 
 the family, was found there, he was fubjedled 
 to a fine, or, if he could not give an account 
 of himfelf, perhaps to imprifonment. Yet 
 means were found by all who had a mind 
 to evade the laws of fobriety in the follow- 
 ing manner. They called at an elder's houfe, 
 on pretence of feeking the benefit of his pray- 
 ers or family worfhip. This duty being over, 
 the elder put up his bible on an adjoining 
 flielf, and took down a bowl, in which he 
 made a fmall quantity of punch, prefenting, 
 at the fame time, fomething to eat, as ham, 
 oat-cake, cheefe, dried fifli, &c. which they 
 call a relijb. The elder's bowl being foon 
 exhauiled, each of the guefls, in his turn, 
 
 infifted
 
 ( 94 ) 
 
 infifted alfo on having his bowl; for which 
 demands the landlord took care, before hand, 
 to be well provided with rum and other in- 
 gredients, which he retailed, in this private 
 manner, chiding his guefts, (at the fame 
 time that he drank glafs for glafs) for their 
 intemperance. The company parted at a late 
 hour, fufficiently replenifhed, it muil be own- 
 ed, with the fpirit. 
 
 A more liberal fpirit, it is juftice to ob- 
 ferve, begins to prevail here, as in other 
 parts of Scotland. In Glafgow, we find the 
 moil complete abbey that is in Scotland, in 
 which there are now three places for public 
 devotion ; one of them in the fpot which 
 was formerly appointed for the burial of the 
 dead ; a moft gloomy place, and well adapt- 
 ed to the genius of the Prefbyterian religion. 
 Two handfome bridges extend over the 
 Clyde. In this city, there are two glafs- 
 houfes ; one for making black, the other for 
 making white glafs. There is a canal from 
 this placs to the eaft fea, which will admit 
 
 of
 
 ( 95 ) 
 
 of veflcls of 1 50 tons ; but the cxpcncc has 
 been greater than the commerce * repays, for 
 500!. fliares are now felling for 200!. Had 
 this canal been made only half as large, it 
 would have anfwered much better. 
 
 Sunday, 26th June. Go from Glafgow 
 to Paifley. This town contains 20,000 in- 
 habitants, the greateft part of whom are 
 employed in the manufacture of filk and 
 thread gauze. This latl is made from five- 
 pence halfpenny to nine-pence per yard, and 
 the filk from nine-pence to twelve fhillings. 
 The people are paid by the yard, in propor- 
 tion to the finenefs of the gauze. Some of 
 the men and women earn five (hillings a day 
 for the fine gauze. Very young girls are em- 
 ployed in weaving the coarfcr fort. Some of 
 them weave three yards a day or more, and 
 can earn thirteen or fourteen pence. Young 
 children are alfo made ufeful in preparing the 
 
 the 
 
 * Since writing the above, commerce has been very much 
 increafed, and the price of (hares in the canal increafed, of 
 courfe, in proportion.
 
 ( 96 ) 
 
 the filk and thread for the loom, and are 
 paid from four-pence to fix-pence a day. 
 
 At this place are the remains of an an- 
 tient abbey, built in the year noo, part of 
 which is in tolerable order, and ferves inftead 
 of a kirk. There are two other regular kirks 
 in Paifley, and five Diflenting meeting- 
 houfes. The manufactory here was efta- 
 bliihed about twenty-five years ago, by an 
 Engliiliman of the name of Philips -, and it 
 is now increafed to the amazing magnitude of 
 giving employment and fubfiftence to 1 5,000 
 fouls. They have lately introduced the cot- 
 ton manufacture here, which is increafing 
 very fail. 
 
 The town of Paifley is near two miles long, 
 and the new part of it, which has been built 
 within thefe five years, contains many very 
 good houfes, built of free-ftone. The prin- 
 cipal manufacturers are fixteen in number, 
 feven Englim. and nine Scotch. Many of 
 thefe have made confiderable fortunes, fet up 
 their carriages, and built, in the neighbour- 
 hood of the town, elegant country houfes. 
 
 Many
 
 ( 97 ) 
 
 Many houfes in Paifley pay, in wages to 
 journeymen weavers, women and children, 
 500!. a week. The carriage of new gauze 
 patterns .from London to this place, by the 
 coach and waggons, cofts 500!. a year. A 
 fertile country, cheap labour, a fober and 
 fteady people, abundance of coal and water 
 carriage, were the circumftances which invited 
 Englifh manufacturers to fettle in this coun- 
 try j and the juftnefs of their views has been 
 fully evinced by the moft profperous fuccefs. 
 
 In the abbey, which belongs to Lord Aber- 
 corn, there is a monument of the wife of 
 Robert Bruce, who broke her neck near this 
 place, when (lie was big with child. The 
 infant was preferved, and afterwards created 
 Lord Semple, and was grandfather to James I. 
 The bells were taken out of this abbey^ 
 and are now at Durham. There is a mod ex- 
 cellent inn at Paifley, built by Lord Abercorn, 
 and kept in very good order by the prefent 
 landlord, Mr. Watts, who provided us with a 
 handfome carriage, and horfes that performed 
 a journey of 600 miles through the moft 
 
 G moun-
 
 ( 98 ) 
 
 mountainous part of Scotland with the greateft 
 eafe. The civility and attention of Mr. 
 Watts merits this remembrance. 
 
 Monday at Paifley. 
 
 Tuefday, 28th June. Return to Glafgow, 
 the country between which and Paifley is 
 pretty well cultivated, and prefents feveral 
 pleafant profpects. The country round 
 Glafgow produces but little corn, nor is 
 there fuch attention (hewn to AGRICULTURE 
 as might be expected near the fecond city in 
 Scotland. A great deal of ground is appro- 
 priated to the purpofe of raifing vegetables 
 for the table, but they will not take the trou- 
 ble to water any of the plants, let the feafon 
 
 > 
 
 be never fo dry. In the city of Glafgow, 
 there are many houfes, to all outward appear- 
 ance, exceedingly elegant. They are, how- 
 ever, only half finifhed. The window-^ 
 fhutters and doors are unpainted deal, and 
 many of the walls bare planter. So large 
 and opulent a city as this might have water 
 conveyed into it, and be drained, without op- 
 preffing the inhabitants, by which means it 
 
 would
 
 ( 99 ) 
 
 would be much cleaner, and of courfe, more 
 healthful. The police of the city feems to be 
 well attended to. It is governed by a provoft 
 and twelve inferior magistrates, who take cog- 
 nizance of fmall offences, and chaftife petty 
 offenders by flight punifhments. Two of the 
 jufticiary lords come here twice a year from 
 Edinburgh, to try offences of an higher nature, 
 and to inflict proportionable punifhments. 
 
 The inn, or rather the hotel at Glafgow, 
 called the Tontine, is a very large houfe. The 
 coffee-room, and ball-room, are very elegant : 
 but there are only fix bed-rooms. The liquors, 
 of all kinds, are exceedingly good. 
 
 Wednefday, 29th June. Leave Glafgow, 
 and ride to Dunbarton, fourteen miles, on 
 the banks of the Clyde. Many good houfes 
 on each fide of the road, and both fides of 
 the river well improved and wooded. The 
 Clyde, after pafling Glafgow, has level, green, 
 and fertile banks, always filled up to the 
 brim by the rains that fall fo plentifully on 
 the weftern fhores of Scotland. Mr. Spears, 
 a merchant in Glafgow, has built near Ren- 
 
 G 2 frew,
 
 frew, a very handfome villa, fuch as a capital 
 merchant in London might have erected on 
 the Thames, at an expence not lefs than 
 io,oool. 
 
 On the beautiful River Cart, which dif- 
 . charges itfelf in the Clyde, near Renfrew, 
 about two miles from Paifley, there is a very 
 pleafing feat, belonging to the Earl of Glaf- 
 gow. The city of Glafgow, and the town of 
 Paifley, ARE BOTH within view of this charm- 
 ing refidence. The River Cart meanders 
 fweetly through the park ; and Cruickftone- 
 Caftle, now in ruins, ftanding on a moil 
 beautiful eminence, adds an intereft to the 
 - delightful fcene, having been a maifon de 
 flalfance to the unfortunate Mary Queen of 
 Scots. It was here that fhe indulged her 
 loves with Lord Darnley, during the happy 
 period of their union, and here fprings frefh, 
 to this hour, her favourite yew-tree, which 
 flie often imprefTed on her copper coin. 
 The remains of a ditch are flill to be traced 
 round the caflle, and the ruins are piclurefque, 
 
 though
 
 though not extenfive. In examining the 
 interior parts of this old manfion, you 
 can flill diftinguifh the lofty hall where the 
 tender Mary, among a race of barbarian and 
 ruffian lords, difplayed the refinements of 
 France, and the charms of Venus. You can 
 alfo trace her favourite apartment, where fhe 
 dedicated the foft hours of her retirement to 
 the loves and graces. 
 
 Lady Glafgow, much to her praife, has 
 lately contributed to the prefervation of this 
 interefting ruin, by a well-timed fupport to 
 its decaying foundations. 
 
 Dunba:ton is a fmall town, in a femi-cir- 
 cular form, on the banks of the Clyde. Being 
 well fituated for receiving kelp from the 
 weftcrn coaft of Scotland, it has two glafs- 
 houfes, both of which find full employ- 
 ment. The caftle is fituated on a rocky 
 hill, nearly conical, rifing out of a plain, to 
 the height of 500 feet, defended, where it 
 is acceflible, by a wall, and its bafe wafhed by 
 the Clyde and theLeven, whofe pure ftream 
 G 3 flows
 
 flows entirely from Loch-Lomond. The 
 rock of this hill has, at different times, tum- 
 bled down in large fragments, which remain 
 upon the plain below, forming an huge mafs 
 of ruins. The country around is for feveral 
 miles quite level. The view from Dunbar- 
 ton-Caftle up and down the Clyde, is very 
 pleafant, and particularly beautified by the 
 towns of Greenock and Port-Glafgow, which 
 run out into the river. The residence of 
 Lord Semple, with another feat acquired by 
 marriage, on the fouth fide of the Clyde, and 
 Lord Blantyre's, near Port-Glafgow, are very 
 good houfes, and add to the beauty of this 
 linking landfcape. The land about them is 
 well wooded, and greatly improved. The 
 Clyde, above Port-Glafgow, becomes very 
 lhallow, and will not admit of veflels above 
 80 tons. To the north of Dunbarton, there 
 is a fine vale, well cultivated and peopled ; 
 and Ben-Lomond, a very high and ftupen- 
 dous mountain, forms the back ground of 
 this magnificent profpecl. 
 
 On
 
 ( 103 ) 
 
 On the caftle of Dunbarton are mounted 
 thirty guns. The garrifon confifts of a cap- 
 tain, a lieutenant, an enfign, and fixty pri- 
 vates. On the fouth fide of the rock there is 
 a good houfe for the governor. The gun- 
 ner's houfe and barracks are higher up, and 
 the magazine, which is bomb-proof, is on 
 the very fummit. This bold eminence is 
 not of eafy accefs, at any place, and, if for- 
 tified in the modern flile, would be as im- 
 pregnable on the fide of the water as the rock 
 of Gibraltar. It has the advantage of feveral 
 good fprings in it, which produce a fufficient 
 quantity of water for any number of men. 
 
 At Dunbarton there is a tolerable inn, kept 
 by Macfarlane, at the Macfarlane Arms. The 
 prifon, oppofite to this houfe, forms not a very 
 pleafant object. This day was kept facred on 
 account of the preparation for the facrament. 
 At leaft i, 200 people attended this folemnity; 
 all of them with fhoes and fiockings, and 
 otherwife very clean, and welldrefTed. The 
 G 4 weather
 
 weather was at this time remarkably hot. 
 The thermometer flood 84. 
 
 Thurfday, 3oth June. Leave Dunbarton, 
 and go to Lufs. The banks of the Leven, up 
 to Loch-Lomond, are fertile and populous. 
 The pure nream is well adapted to bleach- 
 ing, and other ufeful purpofes. Thefe plea- 
 fing fcenes, in the fore ground, are contraft- 
 ed with the purply-blue hills of the High- 
 lands behind, rifmg over them in aweful gran- 
 deur j and the majeftic Ben-Lomond, like the 
 father of the mountains, which feem to do him 
 homage, rearing his venerable head into the 
 clouds. And here the traveller from the 
 Low Countries, is fuddenly and forcibly flruck 
 with the character of the Highlands. The 
 number of the mountains, their approxima- 
 tion to one another, their abrupt and per- 
 pendicular elevation : all thefe circumflances 
 taken together, give an idea of a country con- 
 fiding of mountains without intermirlion, 
 formed by nature into an impregnable for- 
 trefs. This is the fortrefs, which has enabled 
 
 the
 
 the natural hardinefs and valour of the an- 
 tient Caledonians to tranfmit, from the ear- 
 lieft records of their hiftory, the dignity of 
 an unconquered and independent nation, to 
 their lateft pofterity. 
 
 The woody banks of Loch-Lomond, with 
 its irregular form, and its numerous and va- 
 riegated iilands, running up, and vanishing 
 at an immenfe diftance, among the bafes of 
 lofty mountains, form an object both aweful 
 and pleafing, and happily unite the beautiful 
 with the fublime. 
 
 About two miles from Dumbarton, is a 
 pillar, erected to the memory of Smollet, who 
 was born in this country, on the banks of 
 the Leven, four miles from Dunbarton. 
 Arrive at the edge of Loch-Lomond : go 
 into a boat, and row fix miles to Lufs, which 
 is a fmall village. 
 
 Friday, July i ft. Go upon the lake, in a 
 boat, and dine upon an ifland, called Inch- 
 conachan : catch fome good trout, and re- 
 turn in the evening to Lufs. 
 
 01 
 
 Saturday,
 
 Saturday, July ad. Navigate the lake, and 
 go round moft of the iflands. A hard gale 
 of wind, and the lake greatly agitated. At 
 Lufs there is a tolerable inn, kept by one 
 Grant. 
 
 Sunday, 3d July. Go to the lop of an 
 hill, which took two hours to afcend it, and 
 two to come down. From hence we had a 
 moft extenfive view to the fouth and eaft of 
 Stirling and Edinburgh, with the parts ad- 
 jacent, and, to the weft and north of the fea, 
 and the tops of near an hundred craggy 
 mountains, difmal, bleak, and barren. 
 
 Loch-Lomond is twenty-four miles long, 
 and about eight broad. Near the fouth end, 
 it has from 20 to 140 fathom water. It is 
 chiefly towards this end, too, that it is inter- 
 fperfed with various iflands, to the num- 
 ber of twenty-four. Several of thefe are 
 from one to three miles broad : fome rife a 
 confiderable height above the water, and are 
 well covered with wood : others are flat, and 
 have a great deal of grazing land, and, in 
 
 fome
 
 ( 107 ) 
 
 fome places, produce good corn : a few of 
 them are barren rocks, with here and there 
 fome ftraggling mrubs and trees. The 
 fouthern part of the lake is environed with 
 high mountains. Some of thefe, floping 
 gradually down to the water's edge, produce, 
 towards their bafe, a great quantity of grafs, 
 and fome corn ; particularly, on the fouth- 
 eaft fide of the loch, where the Duke of 
 Montrofe has an houfe, and much cultivated 
 land around it. On the weft fide, on a large 
 promontory, well covered with wood, Sir 
 James Colquhoun has built a very handfome 
 modern houfe, which is beautifully fituated, 
 and commands feveral fine views of the loch. 
 All the northern parts of this great body of 
 water is encompafled by ftupendous, barren 
 mountains, rifing almoft perpendicularly 
 from the tranfparent furface, which reflects 
 and foftens their rude image ; witli the ex- 
 ception of only a few fpots, in which there 
 is a confiderable quantity of wood, with fome 
 pretty large trees, and in fome places a fmall 
 extent of level ground, which enables the 
 
 poor
 
 poor inhabitants to fcratch out a few acres of 
 corn and potatoes for their fcanty meal in 
 the winter. On the fouthern point of an 
 iiland, in this extenfive and beautiful lake, 
 called Inchmerran, there ftands an antient 
 caflle belonging to the Duke of Lennox. 
 
 The fouth end of Loch-Lomond, beauti- 
 fully interfperfed with ifles, prefents a num- 
 ber of charming profpecls : but all the nor- 
 thern part of it, being narrow, and bounded, 
 and overfhadowed by the moft tremendous 
 precipices, tends only to fill the mind with 
 horror, and leads us to lament the unhappy 
 lot of thofe whofe defliny it is to live within 
 its confines. Very different from this are 
 the lakes of Cumberland and Weftmoreland, 
 where an appearance of plenty gladdens the 
 fympathetic heart, as much as the romantic 
 profpefts which they afford, amufe the ima- 
 gination. 
 
 On the fides of the mountains that en- 
 viron Loch-Lomond, near the edge of the 
 water, there is a good deal of birch, oak, and 
 
 other
 
 other underwood, with fome tolerable trees. 
 This underwood is cut down at the end 
 of every fifteen years. The bark of the 
 oak is peeled off for tanners : and the 
 wood of this, and other underwood and 
 trees, being turned into charcoal, is fent to 
 Glafgow : a fpecies of commerce which muft 
 be tolerably productive, as the conveyance 
 from the Loch to the Clyde is all by water. 
 This circumftance tends to ftimulate general 
 induftry, and to increafe the value of the 
 whole vicinity of Loch-Lomon.l. The fifli 
 in this lake are, trout, falmon, perch, pike, 
 &c. which the furrounding inhabitants, not- 
 withftanding the incitement of water con- 
 veyance to the Firth of the Clyde, take for 
 their own ufe only* At the fouth end of 
 the loch a number of black cattle are fed, 
 and, at the north, a few ftragglihg fheep. 
 
 Monday, July 4th. Leave Lufs, and ride, 
 by the fide of Loch-Lomond, eight miles, to 
 Tarbat, where there is an inn much better 
 and cleaner than that at Lufs. Oppofite to 
 tins inn appears the majefty of Ben-Lomond. 
 
 We
 
 ( no ) 
 
 We waited two days for an opportunity of 
 afcending it, but the clouds were fo low, 
 that it was uncovered but once the whole of 
 this time, and that only for a few minutes. 
 
 On BEN- LOMOND. 
 
 Stranger, if o'er this pane ofglafs, perchance, 
 Thy roving eye fhould caft a cafual glance, 
 If tafte for grandeur and the dread fublime 
 Prompt thee Ben-Lomond's fearful height to climb, 
 Here gaze attentive ; nor with fcorn refufe, 
 The friendly rhymings of a tavern mufe. 
 For thee that mufe this rude infcription plann'd, 
 Prompted for thee her humble poet's hand. 
 Heed thou the Poet, he thy fteps fhall lead 
 Safe o'er yon towering hill's afpiring head ; 
 Attentive, then, to this informing lay, 
 Read how he dictates, as he points the way; 
 Truft not at firft a quick advent'rous pace, 
 Six miles its top points gradual from the bafe. 
 Up the high rife with panting hafte I pafs'd, 
 And gain'd the long laborious fteep atlaft. 
 More prudent thou, when once you pafs the deep, 
 With meafur'd pace, and flow, afcend the lengthen'd fteep, 
 Oft ftay thy fteps, oft tafte the cordial drop, 
 And reft, O reft, long, long, upon the top. 
 There hail the breezes, nor with toilfome hafte 
 Down the rough flope thy precious vigour wafte. 
 
 So
 
 So fliall thy wondering fight at once furvey 
 
 Vales, lakes, woods, mountains, iflands, rocks, andfea; 
 
 Huge hills that heap'd in crouded order ftand, 
 
 Stretch'd o'er the northern, and the weftern land; 
 
 Vaft lumpy groups, while Bin, who often Ihrouds 
 
 His loftier fummit in a veil of clouds, 
 
 High o'er the reft difplays fuperior ftate, 
 
 In proud pre-eminence fublimely great. 
 
 One fide all aweful to the gazing eye, 
 
 Prefents a fteep three hundred fathom high. 
 
 The fcene tremendous, mocks the ftartled fenfe, 
 
 With all the pomp of dread magnificence : 
 
 All thefe, and more, flialt thou tranfported fee, 
 
 And own a faithful monitor in me.* 
 
 Leave Tarbat, and ride two miles to the 
 top of Loch-Long : an arm of the fea, 
 where the tide rifes about fix feet. At the 
 north-eaft end of this loch is a fmall houfc, 
 with fome firs about it, the refidence of the 
 Laird of Macfarlane, renowned, amon^ other 
 good qualities, for his knowledge of Scottifh 
 antiquities, particularly genealogies, and for 
 tafte and proficiency in the antient Scottifh 
 
 mufic. 
 
 * Thefe lines are written on a pane of glafs, at the inn of 
 Tarbat ; and they are fubfcribed J. R.
 
 mufic. Ride two miles round the end of 
 Loch-Long, where there is another houfe of 
 the fame fort, belonging to a gentleman of 
 the name of Campbell, which has a view of 
 Glencroe, with a river multiplied by a thou- 
 fand cafcades from the tops of craggy moun- 
 tains roaring over loofe ftones, juft by his 
 houfe, and difcharging itfelf into the lake. 
 At this place enter Glencroe, which is fix 
 miles long, and at feveral places fo narrow, 
 that the road has been made by blowing out 
 the folid rock, and is carried above the river, 
 which runs over large rocks below, and oc- 
 cupies the bottom of the glen. The fides of 
 the mountains on each hand, formed of black, 
 craggy rocks, are almoft perpendicular. 
 While we paffed through the narrow glen 
 between them, a thick fog rendered this 
 gloomy avenue, at all times aweful, now ftill 
 more dreadful. At the end of Glencroe 
 there is an hill which terminates it, on the 
 . fummit of which is a ftone, with the follow- 
 ing infcription : " Reft and be thankful." 
 
 This
 
 ( "3 ) 
 
 This road was made by the 23d regiment, 
 and coil them not a little labour to accom- 
 pli Hi it. From thence, I fuppofe, arofe the 
 infcription ; for to the traveller, and even to 
 a carriage, it is neither long nor difficult. 
 From the point of this hill you look down 
 on a fmall lake, paffing by the fide of which 
 you enter into another glen, which is much 
 wider at the bottom, and from the edges or 
 extremities of which, the mountains rife with 
 a gradual (lope, and afford very good pafture 
 for fheep. This glen reaches by an extent of 
 four miles, all the way to Cairndow, a fmall 
 village on the north-eaft fide of Loch-Fine, 
 which, like Loch-Long, is an arm of the fea, 
 where the tide rifes about fix feet. Near 
 this place is a houfe, belonging to Sir 
 James Campbell, of Ardkinlafs, with a tole- 
 rable plantation about it. Dine at Cairn- 
 dow, a very indifferent inn, and, in the after- 
 noon, pafs on, round the north end of the 
 loch, to Inverary. This is a ride of eleven 
 miles, and very pleafant, the road, which runs 
 
 H along
 
 along the fide of the loch, being very good, 
 and the adjacent mountains being well 
 covered with wood. 
 
 Inverary and Loch-Fine. In Loch-Fine 
 there are no iflands. The mountains on each 
 fide are fo very high, that they are in general 
 covered with clouds. At their bafis, near the 
 water, there is a good deal of coppice-wood ; 
 and, in fome fpots, the land is flat enough 
 to admit of corn, and grafs for hay. There 
 is a great quantity of fea-weed thrown on the 
 beach, which makes good manure, and is 
 applied to that purpofe. By thefe means, 
 good crops are produced ; but fo much rain 
 falls, that the poor cottager feldom reaps the 
 fruits of his labour in good condition. The 
 culture of potatoes here, as in every part of 
 the country, is an objecl of great care and 
 attention, and anfwers very well. But the 
 corn, after it is fown, is greatly neglected, 
 and fuffered to be choaked up with weeds. 
 
 This arm of the fea produces herrings in 
 great abundance, cod, haddocks, whitings, 
 
 and
 
 and various other kinds of fifh. Five hun- 
 dred boats are employed in the proper feafon 
 for fifhing, and are, for the moft part, fo 
 fortunate as to take a confiderabie quantity 
 of herrings j part of which are falted for the 
 ufe of the neighbouring country, and part 
 fent to Glafgow for exportation. This rifhn 
 ing might certainly be increafed, and become 
 a fource of great profit to individuals, as well 
 as general advantage to the nation. 
 
 Whoever has travel led over the weftern part 
 of Scotland, and viewed the various lochs, 
 and arms of the fea, mult naturally reflect on 
 the great advantages which the inhabitants, 
 and the nation at large, may derive from a 
 wife and liberal encouragement to promote 
 the increafe of the fifheries on that coaft, 
 and more efpecially when it is confidered, 
 that thoufands of the natives of that coun- 
 try have very little employment. While my 
 mind was impreflcd with thofe ideas, the 
 following plan ftruck me as the moft feafible, 
 being the moft likely to encourage induftry, 
 and to be attended with the leaft expence. 
 
 Ha Let
 
 ( 1=6 ) 
 
 Let application be made to Government 
 for a certain number of old fifty gun mips, or 
 let any other large and commodious fhips (inch 
 as old Eaft-Indiamen ) be purchafed, which 
 they may be for a fmall fum of money, and 
 let them be fent round, and moored in fafe 
 fituations in the different lochs. 
 
 Let Government have thecontroul of thofe 
 fhips, by placing fome intelligent mailers of 
 men of war, or other officers to command 
 them, with ten or fifteen feamen, accuftomed 
 to fifhing, in each of them. 
 
 The fhips to^bejury rigged : that is, to have 
 fmaller mafls, yards, and rigging, than would 
 be required for aclual fervice. The rigging 
 of the vefTels is propofed for the purpofe of 
 exercifmg the young men who chufe to en- 
 gage in the fifhery, in the practical art of fea- 
 manfhip. 
 
 The young men who chufe thus to engage, 
 fliall make thefe their habitations fora certain 
 time of the year, and be fubjecl: to the orders 
 -of the mailers of the fhips. 
 
 A cer-
 
 A certain number of boats and nets to be 
 found by the fociety, who are to fupport the 
 undertaking. 
 
 Four ikilful fifhermen, and four boys, to 
 be employed in each boat, 
 
 The boys to be bound apprentices to the 
 fociety for a certain number of years. 
 
 After the expiration of their apprentice- 
 fhip, the fociety, or Government, to provide 
 a boat with nets, for every fix young men. 
 
 And from this time the boat to be confi- 
 dcred as their own, for the benefit of them- 
 felves and families. 
 
 A bounty to be given in proportion to the 
 quantity of fifh which each boat takes. 
 
 Each (hip to have one hundred or more 
 apprentices, to be found in cloaths, bedding, 
 and provifions, by the fociety, until their time 
 of apprenticefhip expires. 
 
 The fiih to be falted on board the fliips, or 
 in any convenient fpot on the adjacent fhore, 
 and kept on board till veflels arrive to cany 
 them to the different markets. 
 
 An emulation between the fifhing vcflcls 
 
 would be heightened, if different fliips were 
 
 II 3 manned,
 
 manned, and drew their apprentices from 
 different clans : and, that the whole might be 
 cheered and animated to induftry, and new 
 adventurers allured from land, each Ihip 
 might be allowed a fniall band of their na- 
 tional mufic. 
 
 To this plan there may be many objections 3 
 but I muft confefs I cannot fee any material 
 one : if the principle is admitted, the arrange- 
 ment will eafily follow, which I leave to the 
 wifdom of thofe noblemen and gentlemen who 
 have fo laudably and liberally fubfcribed large 
 fums for the purpofe of promoting the fim-. 
 cries in Scotland. The great object to be at- 
 tended to, is, the proper application of the 
 fund. Emulation is thefirfl fpring of activity, 
 and without fociety there can be no compe- 
 tition. If the rifing generation on the wef- 
 tern coafls of Scotland, are collected together, 
 according to the propofed plan, it is probable 
 that every benefit which can be expected, 
 will refult from it, Emulation, in th& 
 firft inftance, will give vigour to the un- 
 dertaking ; and a few years will convince 
 the inhabitants of that country, that they 
 
 have
 
 ( "9 ) 
 
 have but juft difcovered the advantages which 
 nature has beftowed upon them. But, when 
 they have taftcd the benefits arifing from 
 their induftry, intereft will induce them to 
 purfue it. I mean not, by thefe obfervations, 
 to damp the martial ardour of the northern 
 inhabitants of this ifland : they have ever 
 been foremoft in the field ; but as the ex- 
 iftence of this ifland depends upon its mari- 
 time power, I wifh to turn their attention to 
 this object, and there can be no doubt but the 
 fame intrepid fpirit will incite them to defend 
 their native country on the fcas. 
 
 The Duke of Argylc's caftle ftands very 
 pleafantly, corifidering the mQuntainous 
 country in v.hich it is fituatcd. It forms a 
 fquare with four circular turrets. One fto- 
 ry is funk below the furface of the ground : 
 and, round this., there is a large area fur- 
 rounded by iron rails. The caftle has a ve- 
 ry monaftic appearance : tho.ugh lately built, 
 the windows of it arc all turned with a Gothic 
 arch; and it has a fuperftruclure intended 
 U give light to the central part of the l^oufe, 
 H 4 which
 
 ( 120 ) 
 
 which has rather a heavy appearance on the 
 outfide, and is by no means pleafing within. 
 There are many good rooms in the houfe, 
 but none very large. Some of them are ele- 
 gantly furniihed, and the ceilings beautifully 
 painted and gilded. Several of them are not 
 yet rimmed. Though there are no hiftorical 
 pictures, we meet with fome excellent portraits 
 here, among which we contemplate the images 
 of thofe patriots and heroes, the fplendour of 
 whofe actions has raifed the family of Argyle, 
 even in an enlightened and warlike nation, to 
 diftinguifhed celebrity and eminence. The 
 woods around are very ex tenfive, and thofe nea r 
 the houfe planted with a good deal of tafte. The 
 trees, many of which bear marks of high an- 
 tiquity, are chiefly beech : there are alfo fome 
 oaks, chefnuts, am, with a few others. About 
 300 acres of land, clear of wood, is laid down 
 chiefly for hay and grazing land: very little of 
 it is applied to the purpofe of raifing corn ; 
 which, if wemayjudge from the Duke's hav- 
 ing a large flruclure in his park for the purpofe 
 of drying grain (the quantity of rain that falls 
 
 being
 
 C 
 
 being fo great as to render this neceflary) 
 would be a very arduous attempt. Though 
 the land around Inverary rifes every way into 
 mountains, it has the advantage of flat 
 ground to the extent of about 1200 acres. 
 
 Two rivers difchargethemfelves into Loch- 
 Fine, the one near the Duke's houfe, the 
 other about a mile diftant, over each of 
 which there is an handfome bridge. On the 
 
 o 
 
 top of an hill called Dunacquaich, which is 
 870 feet high, there (lands a fquare building 
 by way of a fummer-houfe, with two 
 windows in it. From this lofty eminence 
 you have a very extenfive view of Loch- 
 Fine and all the neighbouring mountains, 
 and a bird's eye profpect of the cattle and all 
 the plantations. The hill is chiefly planted 
 with fir and birch. The trees, at the bot- 
 tom of the hill, are very large ; they gradu- 
 ally become lefs as you afcend ; and near the 
 top they are reduced to brufh-wood. There 
 is a tolerable road to the top of this hill, for 
 horfes, and, in different directions from the 
 ca.ftle, you may ride through beautiful plan- 
 tations
 
 ( 128 ) 
 
 tations for feveral miles. About half a mile 
 from the houfe is the garden, which com- 
 prehends near feven acres of ground. It has 
 a very large hot-houfe and fome hot walls. 
 Cherries, and other common fruits, feem to 
 thrive very well. Near this garden is a large 
 building, erected with fome tafte, for cattle in 
 "winter, cart-houfes, 6cc. and a number of 
 dweliing-houfes for the fervants employed in 
 hufbandry. About the diftance of a mile 
 from this is another building, on an emi- 
 nence, which has a very neat appearance, 
 called the Duke's Dairy. 
 
 The town or village of Inverary is about 
 half a , mile from the caftle, fituated on a 
 point of land that runs into the loch. It 
 confifts of about 200 houfes, many of which, 
 though fmall, are neatly built. The peo- 
 ple are chiefly employed in fifhing, which 
 fometimes employs near 1,000 people. Al- 
 though the herring be indeed a whimfica!, 
 as well as migrating animal, I muft here 
 contradict the report of the herrings 
 
 having
 
 ( 123 ) 
 
 having, in a great mcafure, forfaken Loch- 
 Fine, and gone to other parts of the Scottifh 
 coaft. About three miles from Inverary, there 
 is a woollen manufactory for cloth and carpets. 
 The perfon who eftablifhed it failed ; but the 
 bufmefs is now conducted by another man, who 
 has met with fome fuccefs. Coals are nearly as 
 dear here as in London, on account of the ad- 
 ditional duty, which is a moil impolitic impo- 
 fition, and operates greatly againil all manu- 
 factures. The price of labour at Inverary is 
 from ten-pence to one (hilling a day. On the 
 whole, the general appearance of the caftle, 
 town, and environs of Inverary, isfuchasbe- 
 feems the head of a great clan in a flrong and 
 mountainous country, who, without lofmg 
 fight of the origin of his family in rude and 
 warlike times, adopts the improvements of 
 the prefent period. 
 
 Wednefday, July 6th. Leave Inverary. After 
 getting out of the Duke of Argyle's woods, 
 which extend three miles from hishoufeupthe 
 river, theroadis quite open and dreary, pafling 
 over a number of inferior hills, furrounded by 
 
 moun-
 
 mountains, and unenlivened by the fight of a 
 fmgle tree or fhrub. In the intervening bot- 
 toms or flats, fome attempts are here and there 
 vifible at cultivation, of which they appear to 
 be abundantly capable. About eight miles 
 from Invcrary fall in at Clandifh with Loch- 
 Awe, of which we have a beautiful view. On 
 this part of the Loch there are eight iflands, 
 fome covered with verdure, fome with wood, 
 and others, which are rocky, with large fir- 
 trees. Here alfo the loch is finely indented by 
 promontories, advancing and fpreading into 
 it a great way, and joined to the main land only 
 by a narrow ifthmus. Thefe, with the iflands, 
 form a profpect highly variegated and pleafant. 
 On the earl fide of the loch there is a great deal 
 of land fit for corn, and fome of it is applied 
 to thatpurpofe : but what feems befl adapted 
 to the genius of the people, is grazing. A great 
 number of black cattle are reared here, and 
 a ftill greater number of fheep. On the fide 
 of the loch frauds a well-built modern houfe, 
 called Hay-field. This houfe formerly be- 
 longed to a Mr. Campbell, who had a caftle 
 
 upon
 
 ( 125 ) 
 
 upon one of theiflands, the ruins of which are 
 ftill perceptible. At the north end of the loch 
 there is a large caftle, belonging to the Earl of 
 Breadalbane, now falling to ruin. This, in 
 barbarous times, was the antient den or flrong- 
 hold of the family, from which they iilued 
 forth, at the head of their retainers, like the 
 princes and heroes of Homer, and like thofc 
 of all uncivilized times and countries, to com- 
 mit occafional depredations on their neigh- 
 bours . The prefent pofl effor has the happinefs 
 to live in a milder age, and one more fuited to 
 the natural benignity of his difpofition. The 
 fculking place of his remote anceftors is aban- 
 doned. The Earl of Breadalbane, following 
 the example of his noble predecefibr, while he 
 opens his eyes and his fortune to the general 
 good of every part of the country, exercifes aa 
 elegant hofpitality in his charming refidence 
 at Loch-Tay, which fhews how much the 
 beauty and magnificence of nature may {till 
 be improved by art and cultivated tafle. 
 
 In the vicinity of Loch- A we, the moft 
 antient patrimony of the family of Bread- 
 albane,
 
 ( '26 ) 
 
 albanc, they now poliefs a country near 
 thirty miles in extent. The prefent Lord 
 Breadalbane has let out his land, at the upper 
 part of the lake, on long leafes, on which 
 the tenants are building comfortable houfes. 
 This moil be productive of much good to 
 the landlord, his tenants, and the country at 
 large : for, by making it. the intereft of 
 thofe people to cultivate and improve the . 
 land, they will be induflrious, the landlord 
 will be more certain of his rent, and the 
 country at large will be benefited by an in- 
 creafe of population. There are a great 
 many inhabitants about this loch now $ but 
 their numbers, by well directed induftry, 
 might eafily be trebled. 
 
 Dalmally, pleafantly fituated on a large 
 river, that has its fource in the Black Mount, 
 near the upper end of Loch- Awe, into which 
 it falls, is a large flraggling village. The 
 minuter has a tolerable houfe, and an income 
 of lool. befides a glebe of about forty acres, 
 of pretty good land. The inn here, which is 
 kept by one Hiilop, is a very good one. 
 
 Labour
 
 ( 1*7 ) 
 
 Labour in this country is from ten-pence to 
 one fhilling a day. In a neighbouring 
 mountain, called Chruachan, there is a lead 
 mine, which they have juft begun to work, 
 and met with very good fuccefs. 
 
 Thurfday, July 7th. Leave Dalmally, 
 and go to Oban. From Dalmally to Bun- 
 Awe the road winds round the top of Loch- 
 Awe, on the fide of a mountain, covered for 
 the moft part with trees, From the road, 
 the defcent to the water, which is a thou- 
 fand feet, is, in moft places, nearly perpen- 
 dicular. Yet, there is not any parapet wall 
 on the fide towards the loch, to prevent your 
 falling over, which makes it exceedingly dan- 
 gerous for carriages, or even for horfes, if they 
 are not very quiet. This road extends near 
 eight miles, when a river runs out of the loch, 
 of moft aftonifhing rapidity, roaring through 
 rocks and loofe ftones, till it lofes itfelf in an 
 annofthefea, known by the name of Loch- 
 Etive, at the upper end of which Bun- Awe is 
 iituated. Here the Furnefs Company have 
 
 an
 
 an houfe and place for making charcoal : 
 for which purpofe they have purchafed a 
 great quantity of the neighbouring woods. 
 Above this place, is the high mountain be- 
 fore-mentioned, called Chruachan. From 
 Taynuld and Bun- Awe, the road bends a little 
 inward into the country, from Loch-Etive, 
 palling over a number of fmall hills, which 
 have been covered with oak and birch, 
 though the wood is now moilly cut down for 
 the purpofe of making charcoal. Among 
 thefe hills, as in a great many other places 
 in Scotland, you frequently difcover the 
 flumps of large trees, which prove, that very 
 large timber has grown here formerly, and 
 are fo many incentives to the gentlemen of 
 Scotland to make plantations of foreft trees, 
 fince what has flourifhed in one period, may 
 alfo flourilh in another. The land here-about 
 belongs chiefly to Campbell of Lochniel, but 
 it is let on leafe to the Furnefs Company. 
 
 About two miles from Oban, there is an 
 old ruinous caftle, with a fmall modern 
 houfe built on the top of it. 
 
 Jn
 
 In this old caftle, which is called Dun- 
 flaffnage, there lives a gentleman of the name 
 of Campbell. A little further, on the point 
 of a rock, are the ruins of Dunolly-Caftle, 
 faid to have heen the refidence of the firft 
 kings of Scotland. About a mile from this, 
 at the bottom of a fmall bay, lies the village 
 of Oban, which contains two or three to- 
 lerable houfes. Here there are a few fifhing- 
 boats, chiefly for the fifhing of herrings : a 
 bufmefs which is carried on with fome fuc- 
 cefs, and which would undoubtedly be at- 
 tended with more, if duly encouraged by the 
 gentlemen of the country, to whom it would 
 prove of great advantage. But, it would 
 feem, that there is, in the gentlemen of this 
 part of the country, as in the Highlands in 
 general, a difpofition to keep the lower clafs 
 of people in as abjec"l a ftate as pofliblc. 
 While this humour remains, neither com- 
 merce nor agriculture can poflibly flourim. 
 One Stevenfon, who keeps a public houfe 
 here, of the very woril fort, is the only man 
 of enterprize in the place : he has built four 
 I vefiels,
 
 veflels, from 100 to 150 tons, which he em- 
 ploys in the coafting trade to Greenock, and 
 other places. Having no competitor, he is 
 makingmoney very faft. 
 
 Friday, July 8th. We went from Dal- 
 mally to Oban, with an intention of going to 
 the Ifle of Mull, and vifiting Staffa : and this 
 I was the more defirous of doing, that I had 
 feen fuch bafaltic appearances as are faid to 
 difiinguifri that ifland, on a large fcale, in the 
 Straits of Sunda : a circumftance that might 
 have fuggefted fome comparifons, and led to 
 fome obfervations. But, finding, that without 
 abundance of time, and proper introductions 
 to the people of Mull, this would be a difficult 
 and dangerous attempt, we relinquifli our de- 
 iign, leave Oban, and go to Appin, which is 
 about twelve miles diftant. In the courfe of this 
 ride we are obliged to crofs two ferries with 
 our horfes, which is not a very pleafant un- 
 dertaking, the currents being very rapid. 
 The road is, in general, tolerably good. We 
 have a fine view of Mull, Lifmore, and fe- 
 veral fmaller iflands. Lifmore is the moft 
 
 fertile
 
 fertile of all the Hebrides. Though the foil 
 be, in genera], very thin, and in fome places 
 not more than an inch above the rocks, which 
 are all flate, it produces a great quantity of 
 corn of all kinds. Pafs by the Laird of 
 Lochniel's houfe, which feems to be a pretty 
 good one, and is furrounded by large plan- 
 tations. A little further onward, lives another 
 Campbell, called the Laird of Arde, who has 
 alfo a good houfe, and well flickered by wood. 
 To the north of this houfe is an inlet of the 
 fea, forming a fmall bay, with two or three 
 iflands, on one of which are the ruins of an. 
 old caftle belonging to the Laird of Arde. 
 This den is remarkable only for being nearly 
 as large as the ifland on which it {lands. It 
 ferves to (hew in what miferable holes the 
 people of former times were obliged to hide 
 themfelves. Oppofitc to this frnall iiland is 
 . the village of Appin : and, about a mile 
 again from this is Mr. Seaton's houfe, beau- 
 tifully fituated on an eminence, which com- 
 mands a view of Lifmore, with all the iflands 
 down to the Sound c f Mull, and the chain of 
 I 2 moun-
 
 mountains which run up to Fort William". 
 On the north-weft fide of Loch-Lhynn, 
 great pains have been taken by Mr. Seaton 
 to lay out his grounds, and raife plantations, 
 which are very extensive. There is a great 
 deal of grafs-land about this place, and fome 
 oats and barley, which look ftrong and flou- 
 rifhing. The houfe is an exceedingly good 
 one, kept neat, and commodiouily furnifhed, 
 as we experienced, by having very comfort- 
 able lodging and beds in it. Between Oban 
 and Appin there is a great deal of low gra- 
 zing land, and more corn than I have yet 
 feen, in an equal fpace, in the Highlands. 
 
 Saturday, July 9th. Leave Appin, in the 
 morning, and ride fome diftance by the water 
 fide, through Mr. Seaton's land, where great 
 attention feems to be paid to agriculture, and 
 particularly to keep the land clear of weeds. 
 The manure applied, which is fhell-fand and 
 lime, feems to anfwer very well, as the crops 
 are ftrong and healthy. In fhort, this coun- 
 try, with the roads that open and lead 
 through it, bear evident marks of liberal 
 
 and
 
 ( '33 ) 
 
 and patriotic proprietors ; for mifery and 
 wretchednefs are banifhed from hence, though 
 they are flill too vifible, almoft every where 
 elfe throughout the Highlands, 
 
 Ride by the water fide ten miles to Baljy- 
 hulifti Ferry, where there is a fmall houfe, 
 in which we were obliged to flay fome time, 
 being wet through when we came to it. The 
 road in general, for fuch a mountainous and 
 rocky country, is tolerably good. In the 
 afternoon, ride through Glencoe, on each 
 fide of which are the mofl tremendous pre- 
 cipices I ever beheld in any part of the world. 
 Torrents of water falling from thefe in all 
 ihapes and directions, form at the bottom a 
 iarge and rapid river. As we palled through 
 the glen, it blew a ftorm. Sometimes the 
 craggy mountains were hid in black clouds, 
 and, at others, vifible through the mift, 
 which ferved to aggravate the gloom of this 
 nweful place, and render it truly horrible. 
 This feemed a fit fcene for the mallacre of 
 1691, which leaves a flam either on the me- 
 mory of King William, or that of his mi- 
 I 3 nifters,
 
 ( '34 ) 
 
 nifters, or on both. At the foot of thcfe 
 precipitous mountains, there is much ver- 
 dure, but the fides are fo perpendicular, that 
 fcarcely even a goat can feed upon them. In 
 the middle of the glen there are two or three 
 miferable huts. The flumps of great num- 
 bers of large trees remain in feveral parts of 
 the glen. At the upper part, the fide of one 
 mountain is flill covered with firs : and 
 where ever peat is dug, many large trees are 
 found, which fhews, that this has been for- 
 merly a foreft. 
 
 Sunday, loth July. After getting out of 
 Glencoe, which is ten miles long, you may 
 fee the King's Houfe, at the diftance of three 
 miles, fituated on the fide of a rapid river. 
 Around this lonely hut, for twenty miles in 
 each direction, there feems to be no habi- 
 tation, nor food for man or beafl. This 
 hOufe is fo ill attended to by the old rafcal 
 who lives in it, that there is not a bed fit to 
 fleep in, nor any thing to eat, notwithftand- 
 ing that he has it rent-free, and is allowed 
 
 nine
 
 ( -35 ) 
 
 nine pounds per annum by Government. In 
 the mr-ning leave this curfed place, and ride 
 to Fort-William, twenty-four miles of very 
 bad road, over two mountains j one at 
 Auchnafie, called the Devil's Stair-cafe ; the 
 other at Kinloch-Leven, at the head of the 
 lake of that name. About four miles fouth 
 of Fort-William is a very good grazing 
 farm, on the Lochiel eftate, called Loch- 
 Andrava, of confiderable extent, which pro- 
 duces the fineft grafs I have feen in the 
 Highlands. 
 
 Monday, nth July. Vifit Fort-William, 
 built in King William's reign. The prefent 
 fort, which is a triangle, has two baftions, 
 and is capable of admitting a garrifon of 
 800 men, but not to be defended againfl any 
 attack. Several hills near it command the 
 whole fort, and the north fide of it is quite 
 open, the wall having lately fallen down. 
 There are now two companies of infantry in 
 it. About a mile from Fort- William is In- 
 yerlochy, an old caftle, with large round tow- 
 1 4 ers,
 
 ( '36 ) 
 
 ers, fuppofed to have been built by Edward I. 
 In 790 Inveiiochy was one of the feats of the 
 kings of Scotland. About a mile from this 
 caftle, on the river Lochy, which empties it- 
 felf into the fea at Fort- William, is a falmon 
 fifhery, the joint property of Lochiel and the 
 Duke of Gordon : 200 barrels, containing, 
 each, from twenty-five to twenty-feven fifli, 
 have been taken this year, which is reckoned a 
 very fuccefsful fifhing. Thefe barrels have 
 been fold as high as feven pounds, but pro- 
 duce now only five pounds, ten {hillings, 
 which will bear a profit of about forty {hil- 
 lings. This fifhery is farmed by four men, 
 who pay 150!. per annum for it, and for 
 this fum have land into the bargain, which 
 produces 50!. per annum to them. There- 
 fore, I fuppofe, the fifhery muft be very pro- 
 fitable, though they do not take the means 
 to fifh the river properly. The quality of 
 this falmon is equal to that of the Severn. 
 Tuefday, izth July. Ride by the fide of 
 Lochiel to Mr. Cameron of Faflifern's houfe. 
 
 A part
 
 ( '37 ) 
 
 A part of the eftate of Lochiel, which lies on 
 each fide of this loch, has exceedingly good 
 zing land to the tops of the hills. The 
 lower ground is a light fandy foil, which 
 would produce very good corn, efpecially as 
 a great quantity of fea-weed is thrown on the 
 fhore, which, mixed with lime, makes good 
 manure. The lime, indeed, is not upon the 
 fpot, but is brought from the Ifland of Lif- 
 more in {tones, and landed at Lochiel for 
 three millings per ton. At prefent, the 
 weed which is thrown on the fliore is con- 
 verted to another ufe, which probably may 
 be more beneficial to the proprietor than put- 
 ting it on the land. It is cut once in three 
 years, and burnt into kelp, for making glafs. 
 Mr. Cameron makes about fixteen tons of 
 this triennially. It is fold, fometimes, for 
 fix pounds per ton on the fpot, which muft 
 produce a good profit, as the only drawback, 
 is the labour, which is one milling a day. 
 The eftate of Lochiel to the north-weft 
 reaches all the way to Loch-Arkek, wliere 
 
 there
 
 ( 138 ) 
 
 there is an extent of wood near twelve miles 
 long, all firs : and, at the upper end of Loch- 
 iel is a very good oak wood, of near 200 
 acres. The eafy communication with the 
 water and the fea, muft make the timber of 
 confiderable value, if fuffered to grow to a 
 large fize ; but the growth of trees has been 
 much neglected. The whole country being 
 turned into pafture land, for the more im- 
 mediate profit arifing from grazing, has pre- 
 vented the wood from getting up, which it 
 would do naturally, if it were only protected 
 from the cattle, as clearly appears from feveral 
 fpots about FafTifern's houfe, where the caN 
 tie are not fuffered to go, being covered with 
 very fine oak and birch. Were this fimpleplan 
 adopted, either by inclofures or otherwife, in 
 the worft part of the eilate, where grazing is 
 not fo profitable, in the courfe of ten years 
 woods might be raifed which would be very 
 profitable. As climate here is fo much com- 
 plained of, and the ripening of the corn is 
 $ matter of great uncertainty, the grazing 
 
 ground;
 
 ( 139 ) 
 
 ground might, at a fmall expence at firfl, be 
 made more productive than it is at prefent, 
 by adopting the method ufed in Derbyfhire, 
 of large enclofures, where grafs will always 
 grow better than when it is entirely open. 
 This would feed more black cattle, and em- 
 ploy more people to attend them, than fheep 
 do, the rearing of which, I clearly fee, if 
 continued to its prefent extent, will depo- 
 pulate the whole country j for one family 
 can attend as many fheep as fevcral miles will 
 graze. 
 
 Ill fares the land, tohaft'ning ills a prey, 
 While wealth accumulates, and men decay ; 
 Princes and lords may flouriih or may fade ; 
 A breath can make them, as a breath has made : 
 But a bold peafantry, their country's pride, 
 When once deftroy'd, can never be fupply'd. 
 
 Another plan is abfolutely neceflary for 
 the improvement of all this country, which 
 is, to grant long leafes to the tenants, and to 
 make it their intereft to live at home and cul- 
 tivate the land. By thefe means, the eftates 
 
 would,
 
 would, in time, be greatly benefited, the land- 
 lord might raife his rents without oppreffmg 
 the tenant, and thofe people who are now, to 
 all appearance, truly miferable and wretched, 
 rendered comfortable and happy. The op- 
 pofite plan to this is frill the prevailing cuf- 
 tom in moil parts of the Highlands. The 
 chieftain lets the land in large lots, to the 
 inferior branches of the family, all of whom 
 muft fupport the dignity of lairds. Thefe 
 renters let the land out in fmall parcels, from 
 year to year, to the lower clafs of people, 
 and, to fupport their dignity, fqueeze every 
 thing out of them they can pofftbly get, 
 leaving them only a bare fubfiftence. Until 
 this evil is obviated, Scotland can never im- 
 prove. 
 
 That part of the Lochiel eftate which goes 
 down from Fort- William to the ferry at Bal- 
 ly-huliih, contains a quantity of very good 
 grazing land, and will produce any thing 
 that may be wifhed for, fuch as carrots, tur- 
 nips, or cabbages, for feeding cattle in win- 
 ter,
 
 ter, &c. Creat quantities of very fine po- 
 tatoes are now growing upon it, as flourifh- 
 ing as any in England. By the culture of 
 fuch plants and roots, more black cattle may 
 be fed : for the great drawback in this bufi- 
 nefs at prefent, is the want of provender in 
 winter. Near Loch-Leven is a veiy good 
 flate quarry, which in fome meafure fupplies 
 the neighbouring country, and fome of it is 
 lent coaftways to different parts. Mr. Seaton 
 has two on the oppofite more, which rather 
 diminifh its value : however, it may be 
 turned to a very good account, by adopting 
 a new and more comfortable ftile of habi- 
 tations in the Highlands, for the poor peo- 
 ple, who cannot now be faid to live in houfes. 
 No Kamlkatka hut can be worfe than a 
 Highlander's. Thofe dreadful abodes muft 
 often be the caufe of difeafe and death. 
 
 The farm of Bcnnevis is a very good one 
 for grazing, and other purpofes. On the 
 banks of the River Lochy is a great extent 
 of flat land, feveral hundred acres. This is 
 
 at
 
 at prefent covered with a fort of mofs, but 
 has a fandy foil under it, which, by means of 
 fea-weed or lime, may be converted into 
 good land in the courfe of two or three years. 
 Thofe manures deflroy the mofs in one 
 year : the next, tolerable potatoes may be 
 raifed ; and the third, oats or barley. It 
 may then be laid down in grafs. At the 
 upper end of Lochiel is a falmon fifhery : 
 but nets only are ufed, and few fifh are 
 taken. 
 
 Wednefday, I3th July. The town of 
 Maryborough has a good many tolerable 
 houfes in it, and contains about 500 people, 
 who have actually no employment, but a 
 little herring-fiihing in the feafon. The 
 only mode, in my opinion, which can be 
 adopted to make them induilrious, Is, to ef- 
 tabliih amongft them a woollen manufactory. 
 This country produces a great quantity of 
 wool, which is now fent to Glafgow and 
 Liverpool to be wrought into cloth, &c. A 
 manufactory of wool would render the ar- 
 ticles
 
 ( "143 ) 
 
 tides of drefs much cheaper, and give activity 
 to a fet of men, loft to the world and to 
 themfelves in the moft torpid and miferable 
 indolence. The communication from hence 
 to the fea is too obvious to admit of any il- 
 luftration. Ships of any fize may come up 
 to Fort- William : but the pafTages among 
 the iflands are dangerous, from rapid tides 
 and currents, and thofe ftorms and hard 
 fqualls to which all mountainous. countries 
 are fubjccl. Yet it certainly may be navi- 
 gated, and, in the fummer months, with 
 eafe. At Fort-William there is great abun- 
 dance of peat for fuel, particularly on the 
 Lochiel eftate, not three miles from the 
 town, whither it is brought in boats. ' Coals 
 alfo may be landed here tolerably cheap. 
 Fifli of various forts are caught here in great 
 plenty : falmon, turbot, herrings, haddoclis, 
 whitings, &c. &c. 
 
 To the weft ward of Lochiel is a confidera- 
 ble eftate, called Clanronnald, belonging to 
 Macdonald, who alfo porTdfes the greater 
 
 part
 
 ( H4 ) 
 
 part of the ifland of South Uift, which, by the 
 article of kelp alone, produces 1500!. a year. 
 Thurfday, i4th July. Leave Fort- Wil- 
 liam, and go to Letter-Findlay, fourteen 
 miles of very bad road, and rather hilly. 
 Pafs over High-Bridge, built by General 
 Wade over the River Spean : two of the 
 arches are ninety-five feet high. This is a 
 very rapid river, running between high and 
 perpendicular rocks into Loch-Lochy, which 
 is fourteen miles long, and two broad. This 
 loch empties itfelf into the weftern fea, at 
 Fort- William, as Loch-Oich does through 
 Loch-Nefs, into the eaftern, at Invernefs. 
 From Fort-William to the weft part of Loch- 
 Lochy, there is a great quantity of good 
 grazing land, the gras being of a moderate 
 height. The mountains on the north of the 
 loch are of vaft height, and barren, except 
 near the bottom, where there is fome good 
 grafs. On the fouth fide of the loch there are 
 good fheep-walks, and the land is, in various 
 places^ covered with wood. When you firft 
 
 come
 
 come upon Loch-Loehy, you have a view 
 into Loch-Arkek; and upon the oppofite 
 fhore, near the entrance into Loch-Arkek, 
 flood Achnacarrie, the feat of Lochiel, burnt 
 in 1746. The road from this place flretches 
 eight miles, on the fide of Loch-Lochy, and 
 is fometimes carried through very beautiful 
 woods of aller and birch. After patting 
 Loch-Lochy, a very fhort diflance brings 
 you to Loch-Oich, a narrow lake, prettily 
 indented, and adorned with fmall, wooded 
 iflands. On the north fhore, near the mid- 
 dle of the lake, is Glen-Garie, the feat cf 
 Mr. Macdonald, a modern, though odd-built 
 houie. Near this ftand the ruins of an old 
 cattle, fituated on a rock. This place is 
 prettily wooded, and the land up the glei\ 
 iecms to be well cultivated. 
 
 After leaving this loch, you travel about 
 four miles to Fort-Auguftus, which is fitu- 
 ated on a plain at the head of Loch-Nefs, 
 between the Rivers Tarff and Oich, Over 
 'the lad of thefe, there is a bridge of three 
 
 K arches,
 
 ( '46 ) 
 
 arches, well built, which opens a comma- 
 nication with the north. Fort-Auguflus is 
 a fmall fortrefs, formed by four baftions, and 
 is capable of containing about 400 men. It 
 is not capable of any defence, being command- 
 ed by feveral places at no great diftance. 
 Near the fort is a fmall village, and a to- 
 lerable inn > and below it, a little pier, which 
 affords flicker for fmall veflels and boats, 
 that come from Invernefs to fupply the gar- 
 rifon. The mountains on each fide of Fort- 
 Auguftus are very rocky and barren : nor is 
 there much grazing or corn-land in the bot- 
 toms. 
 
 Friday, July 15. Leave Fort-Auguftus, 
 and afcend a very long hill to the fouth of 
 the fort, which is near three miles to the 
 top 5 on reaching the fummit of which, you 
 are prefented with a view of numberlefs hills 
 and mountains of almoft barren rock. In 
 the vallies, or rather pits, may be feen a 
 few acres of grazing land, and a fmall quan- 
 tity of corn. On the top of this mountain, 
 
 is
 
 ( '47 ) 
 
 is Loch-Tarff, about a mile wide, with fe- 
 veral fmall iilands in it, on fome of which 
 you fee a few fhrubs. This loch fends forth 
 the River TarfF, which runs down to Fort- 
 Au^uftus, fwelled in its paffage by feveral 
 fmall ftreams. Rido nine miles over this 
 barren country, and arrive at the celebrated 
 fall of Foyers, at the upper part of the glen, 
 which is beautifully covered with birch- 
 trees. Above the fall is-a bridge built over 
 
 o 
 
 the river upon two perpendicular rocks, the 
 top of the arch near i oo feet from the level 
 of the water ; and juft above the bridge, the 
 whole body of the Tarff falls near fifty feet 
 perpendicular into the glen. Near a quarter 
 of a mile below this bridge is the large fall, 
 which is near two hundred feet, and the wa- 
 ter afterwards runs into Loch-Nefs, over 
 large and rugged rocks. On a promontory 
 clofe by this river, a gentleman of the name 
 of Frafer, has a houfe pleafantly fituated, 
 which commands a good view of the loch, 
 and the mountains on each fide. About a 
 K 2 mil?
 
 ( 148 ) 
 
 mile from the Fall of Foyers, the road is 
 carried through a very beautiful birch wood, 
 to the General's Hut, a very indifferent pub- 
 lic houfe, where we were obliged to dine on 
 very bad fare. Near this are the remains of 
 an old kirk, where many of the Frafers lie 
 expofed to the rude infults of man and 
 bead. After leaving the General's Hut, the 
 road goes for twelve miles by the fide of 
 Loch-Nefs, through a beautiful fhrubbery of 
 birch, oak, and allers. The oppofite fide 
 of the loch is formed by very high moun- 
 tains, moftly covered with heath. At the 
 lower part of the loch, which is twenty-four 
 miles long, and at fome places a mile wide, 
 are many plantations of fir, fome of them 
 very extenfive, but none of the trees above 
 fifteen or twenty years old. Some hollies, 
 and a great deal of juniper and furze, grow at 
 the lower part of the loch. This furze is th.e 
 firfl I have feen in the Highlands. The 
 plantations of fir are continued all the way 
 to Invernefs, which is about five miles from 
 
 the
 
 ( H9 ) 
 
 the lower end of Loch-Nefs, where it 
 a river which falls into the Murray-Firth. 
 
 On the north fide of this great expanfc of 
 water, where it is indented by a promontory of 
 folid rock, ftands Caftle-Urquhart, once the 
 feat of the Cummins, at one period the moft 
 powerful clan in Scotland. The lake, with 
 its woody borders, the lofty mountains with- 
 in which it is embofomed, and the eafy tran- 
 fition of ideas, by means of the lake, to the 
 forts, and to the town of Invernefs, render 
 this fpot one of the moil charming that the 
 imagination can conceive. The foil between 
 the lower part of Loch-Nefs and Invernefs 
 is veiy fandy, but produces tolerable cprn. 
 In the River-Nefs much falmon is caught. 
 The filhery is let to the London fifhmongers. 
 
 Invernefs is a town of confiderable magni- 
 tude, faid to contain about 1 1 ,000 inhabi- 
 tants. Some of the houfes in it are tolerably 
 built, but the ftreets narrow and dirty. It 
 is fituated on a plain between the Murray 
 Firth and the River Nefs. Ships of 4 or 500 
 K 3 tons
 
 t vns can ride within a mile of the town, and, 
 at high tide, vellels of 200 tons can come up 
 to the quay, which, though fmail, is made 
 fafe and convenient. Ths principal bufmefs 
 carried on here is the fpinning of thread, 
 making linen and woollen cloth for their own 
 confumption, and facking for exportation. 
 Several large buildings have been erected for 
 thofe purpofes, and much bufinefs is carried 
 on in private houfes. On the north, near 
 the town, are the remains of Oliver's Fort, 
 which was made of mud. Three of the 
 baftions are frill remaining. This fort was 
 well fituated, for it commands the whole 
 itown, and might at any time be furrounded 
 by water. Several of the factory houfes are 
 now built within it, and a part of it forms 
 the bafon for the reception of vclFels. On 
 the fouth fide of the town, on an eminence, 
 flood old Fort-George, taken and blown up 
 by the Highlanders in 1746. Juft below 
 this place is a. handfome bridge of feven 
 arches over the River Nefs. Several places 
 
 round
 
 round Invernefs command beautiful views, 
 particularly a hill covered with firs called 
 Tomnaheurich. From this hill you may fee 
 the whole town, the Murray-Firth, the River 
 Nefs, and a variety of neighbouring moun- 
 tains. There is a great deal of corn raifed 
 about Invernefs, particularly oats and beans. 
 The foil is light and fandy, and there are great 
 complaints here of the want of rain : fo very 
 different from, and yet fo near is the climate 
 to that about Fort-William. The want 
 of rain, in this part of Scotland, may be 
 accounted for as follows: the mountains 
 on the fouth-weft, from which the rain ge- 
 nerally comes, are fo exceedingly high, that 
 the clouds are arrefted, and fhed among them 
 the greatefl part of their moifture. Thofe 
 'weftern mountains are alfo Ib ftrangely 
 formed, and heaped up to the fky in fo many 
 perpendicular points, that they naturally 
 occafion eddies round them, and draw the 
 wind in various directions, making as it were 
 Jnd of vortex : fo that the clouds cannot 
 K 4 pofli-
 
 ( '5* ) 
 
 poflibly efcape them. By this means the ea- 
 ftern part of Scotland, which lies in their 
 direction, is prevented from receiving the 
 quantity of rain by which it would be wa- 
 tered. This part of the country, at prefent, 
 bears evident marks of drought, from the 
 top of Loch-Nefs all the way to the eaft- 
 ward, while every part of the Weil Highlands 
 is refrefhedwith rain even in fuperabundance. 
 The ifland of Great Britain, between In- 
 vernefs and Fort-William, aflumes a form 
 that is very extraordinary and curious. It 
 is deeply indented on either fide, and near- 
 ly divided by water, which is moftly, and 
 might eafily be made navigable all the way. 
 But a confiderable commerce alone could 
 make a return fuitable to the expence of do- 
 ing fo. Loch-Nefs, Loch-Oich, and Loch- 
 Lochy, which are all navigable, might eafi^ 
 ly be united with each other, by canals, and 
 form a communication between the two feas. 
 The land which feparates thefe lochs is low, 
 and a canal might eafily be made from one to 
 
 the
 
 ( '53 ) 
 
 the other. Thefe lochs, from Inverness to 
 Fort- William, are bounded by high moun- 
 tains on each fide, and from both the weftera 
 and the eaftera point of view, exhibit the 
 appearance of the ifland being interfected 
 by water. 
 
 Saturday, i6th, July. Leave Invernefs, 
 and ride fifteen miles, part of it over Cullo- 
 den Moor : pafs by Culloden-Houfe, the feat 
 of Mr. Forbes, and the ruins of Cauder- 
 Caftle j and have a very good view of Fort- 
 George, a ftrong and regular fortrefs. The 
 barracks here are handfome, forming feveral 
 good ftreets. This fort is fituated on a low 
 and narrow neck of land, running into the 
 Murray-Firth, and compleatly commands the 
 entiance into the harbour. The land be- 
 tween Invernefs and Nairn is quite low and 
 fandy. 
 
 Nairn is a fmall town, fituated on an emi- 
 nence near the fea. The houfes arc built of 
 ftone, and fome of them pretty good. The 
 north-earl end of the town is compofed of 
 
 mife-
 
 miferable Highland huts. Many boats be- 
 long to the people of this town, the prin- 
 cipal employment of the men being fiming. 
 The boats are large, and, from their con- 
 ftruclion, capable of bearing a great deal of 
 fail. They are made rather lharp before, 
 and continue their breadth nearly to the 
 flern. This is a good country for corn -, but 
 the foil being fandy, the want of rain has 
 kept the crops very backward. 
 
 Sunday, i7th July. Leave Nairn, and 
 ride moil part of the way, on the beach, by 
 the fea-fide, to Torres, a fmall well-built 
 town, pleafantly fituated near fome little 
 hills, and, as it lies on an eminence, ca- 
 pable of being kept very clean. The coun- 
 try about it has a chearful appearance, hav- 
 ing a few gentlemen's feats, with fome plan- 
 tations about them. On a hill weft of the 
 town are the remains of a caftle, and a melan- 
 choly view of a number of tad-hills, that 
 now cover that tract of land which was 
 formerly the eftate of a Mr. Cowben, in the 
 
 parifh
 
 ( '55 ) 
 
 parifh of Dyke. This inundation was oc- 
 cafioned by the influx of the fea, and the 
 violence of the wind. It had been the cuf- 
 tom to pull up the bent, a long fpiry grafs, 
 rear the fhore, for litter for horfes, by 
 which means the fand was loofened, and gave 
 way to the violence of the fea and wind, 
 which carried it over feveral thoufand acres 
 of land. The people having been prevented 
 from pulling up any more of the grafs, the 
 progrcfs of the fand is now nearly flopped, 
 and the fea has retired : but the wind has 
 . blown fome of the fand from the hills over 
 Colonel Grant's land, and deftroyed near one 
 hundred acres. A fand-bank, which is all 
 dry at low water, runs out from this place 
 for feveral miles, into the Murray-Firth. 
 Some of the land, which has been long for- 
 faken by the water, is now beginning to be 
 ufeful again, and is turned into grazing land. 
 At Forres, coarfe linen and fewing-thread are 
 made. About a mile from the town, on the 
 left-hand fide of the road, is a ftone near 
 
 twenty
 
 ( '56 ) 
 
 twenty feet high, called King Sweno's Stone, 
 creeled by the Scots in memory of the final 
 retreat of the Danes. On a moor, about 
 four miles further, Shakefpear places the 
 rencounter of Macbeth and the Wierd Sif- 
 ters ; and it is judicioufly chofen, for all the 
 women in this part of the country have the 
 appearance of midnight hags, They only 
 want the cauldron and the broom-ftick to 
 compleat them for the flage. In our vyay 
 from Forres to Elgin, pafs by the ruins of 
 Kinlofs- Abbey, founded by David I. in 1 150. 
 Near this place Duffus, King of Scotland, 
 was faid to be murdered by thieves. All the 
 country between Forres and Elgin is very 
 barren j moftly black heath and land mixed 
 with gravel. In fome places there is a tole^, 
 rable crop of beare, which is a poor fort of 
 barley, and oats : but the ground much in want 
 of rain. Near Elgin is a large moor, or mofsj 
 which theporTeiTor is draining ; by which he 
 employs a great number of people, and in time 
 may probably reap fome benefit to himfelf. 
 
 For
 
 ( '57 ) 
 
 For where a mofs grows over fand, it may, 
 in a few years, be brought into good grazing 
 land. About half a mile from Elgin is a very 
 large plantation of firs, called Quarry-Wood. 
 Elgin, a town about the fize of Forres, has 
 a few good houfes in it. Of the cathedral, a 
 yery beautiful old ruin, part' of two towers, 
 the weft entrance, and the chancel, flill re- 
 main, though much mutilated : however, 
 there is enough to fhew the exquifite work- 
 manmip with which it was formed, and who- 
 ever fees it, muft lament the rude violence of 
 the Reformers, that brought it to defolation. 
 On the weft of the town, on a hill, ftood an 
 old caftle, which, from its fituation, would 
 command the town. Of this ftracliure, a 
 few heaps of ftones are now only remaining. 
 The people here, as in all the little towns on 
 this coaft from Invernefs, are employed in 
 making thread and linen cloth, chiefly for 
 their own confumption. All thefe towns, 
 Invernefs, Nairn, Forres, and Elgin, have a 
 very difmal appearance, being all built of 
 
 dark
 
 dark ftone : nor can they claim the merit of 
 being very clean, and Elgin, in filthinefs, ex- 
 ceeds them all. 
 
 Monday, iSth-'July. Leave Elgin, and go 
 to Fochabers, through feveral miles of very 
 good corn land ; the foil fandy ; the crops 
 now on the ground chiefly beare and oats, 
 with fome few acres of wheat. About five 
 miles from Elgin, on the left, is a gentle- 
 man's feat, with very extenfive plantations 
 of firs, upon land which, in a few years, 
 might be made very fit for any kind of grain. 
 By alloting certain portions, rent free, for 
 eight or nine years, to poor families, they 
 would be able to maintain themfelves, im- 
 prove the land, and promote population. It 
 is impoffible to avoid obferving the inju- 
 dicious manner in which the Scots have 
 made plantations : nor can I poffibly account 
 for it in any other way than by confidering 
 it as the effect of pajTion. They have been 
 coatinually ridiculed by the Englifh, for hav- 
 ing no trees in their country. Some men, 
 
 there-
 
 ( '59 ) 
 
 therefore, determined to be laughed at no 
 longer, have gone home, and infread of plant- 
 ing a variety of trees, and placing them fo 
 as to be a icreen to the land, and an orna- 
 ment to the country, they have turned great 
 portions of their eftates into forefts of Scotch 
 firs, which are but ugly trees at beft, and 
 which grow fo nearly of a height, and are 
 placed fo clofe together, that the country 
 Hill looks, at a diftance, as if there was not 
 a tree in it. The particular plantation I 
 have juft mentioned, is at a fufficient dif- 
 tance from the houfe, to admit of converfion 
 into corn-land without interfering with the 
 pleafure-ground : therefore, I would recom- 
 mend it to the owner to cut all the trees 
 down, and make the ufe of it I have men- 
 tioned. It is a melancholy reflection, that 
 people are leaving the Highlands daily, and 
 transporting themlelves to America, while 
 thoufands of acres are lying wafle, which 
 might be made produclive to the owner, and 
 maintain numberlefs families. 
 
 Crofs
 
 Crofs the River Spey at Fochabers, where 
 there is a ferry-boat, but no bridge. This, 
 I believe, is the moil rapid river in Scotland. 
 After heavy rains it carries everything before it. 
 At Fochabers is Gordon-Caftle, a very large 
 and elegant building. The centre of the 
 houfe is old. The north-eaft front is regu- 
 lar. The fouth-weft front has a fquare tower 
 in the middle, which is confiderably higher 
 than the top of the houfe j the wings, which 
 are new, are very elegant. The whole front 
 extends near 3 50 feet, and has upwards of 1 20 
 windows; The fituation of the houfe is low, 
 and rather damp. The park, though not ex- 
 tenfive, has many fine old trees in it, but 
 planted without tafte or judgment. All the 
 grounds about it are in a very unfinifhed 
 ftate. The hills above the houfe are all 
 planted with fir. As to the infide of the 
 houfe, I can fay nothing. The Duchefs be- 
 ing at home, we did not chufe to intrude upon 
 her. The old town of Fochabers confifts of 
 miferable huts, but a new one is begun, in 
 
 which
 
 ( 161 ) 
 
 which are feveral good houfcs, and two to- 
 lerable inns. At this place there is an ef- 
 tabliihment for making fewing- thread, in 
 which about fifty girls are employed. From 
 Fochabcrs to Cullen is twelve miles, a very 
 fine corn country all the way, and the crops 
 of wheat, beare, and oats, very flourishing 
 and flrong. The foil, in this part of the 
 country, has in it a mixture of clay. Some 
 fields of grey peafe arc fown here, and feem 
 to thrive very well. On this road are a 
 number of fmall houfes, belonging to the 
 Gordons, being in the neighbourhood of the 
 Duke. 
 
 Cullen is a fmall poor town, without one 
 good houfe in it, pleafantly fituated on the 
 
 le of a fmall hill, under which is Cullen- 
 houfe, a feat of the Earl of Findiater, {land- 
 ing on the edge of a glen. The planta- 
 tions round it are very extenfive. The houfe 
 is very antient and large, but there are no 
 good rooms in it, nor any pictures, except a 
 few tolerable, portraits. A bridge of one 
 L arch
 
 arch, of feventy feet high, is thrown ovef 
 the glen juft by the houfe, at the bottom of 
 which runs a rapid ftream. In the evening 
 pafs by Portfoy, a neat little fifhery town, 
 on a fmall promontory, running into the 
 fea. Arrive at Bamff at night. The coun- 
 try between Cullen and Bamff is well culti- 
 vated, and inclofed, in fome places, by ftone 
 dykes. It produces a great quantity of beare 
 and oats, and a final! proportion of wheat and 
 grey peafe. The foil is remarkably good, and 
 the effe6ls of good hufbandry are very vifible. 
 Moil of the cottages, and particularly the 
 farm-houfes, are built of ftone, and covered 
 with tiles or flate: a comfortable fight, to 
 which we have not been accuftomed flnce we 
 entered Scotland. The poor people in all 
 the weftern part of it, are ftill living in mi- 
 ferable huts, a few of which are to be feen 
 here. 
 
 Bamff is pleafantly fituated on the fide of 
 a hill, clofe to the fea. There are feveral 
 ilreets in it, and one which is very decent. 
 
 The
 
 ( 163 ) 
 
 The hai bour is but indifferent. The falmon- 
 filhing here, in the River Divenon, amounts 
 to loool. per annum. Near the town is 
 Duff- ho ufe, the feat of the Earl of Fife, a 
 very large pile of building, with a fquarc 
 tower at each end. The front is richly orna- 
 mented with carving. The rooms are all 
 imall, and the bed apartments are not yet 
 finHhed. The plantation and walks about 
 this houfc are laid out with more tafte and 
 elegance, than any I have feen in Scotland, 
 A beautiful river, called the Dive, runs 
 through the grounds, and near the houfe is 
 an elegant bridge over it, of nine arches, 
 built by Government. All the neighbour- 
 ing hills are covered with pine. Oppofite to 
 Bamff is a little town, called Macduff, be- 
 longing to the Earl of Fife, who is taking 
 much pains to improve it, and is building a 
 pier for the coafting vcilcls, which, when fi- 
 nilhed, will befafe and commodious. 
 
 Tuefday, 1 9th July. Leave Bamff, and go 
 
 through two fmall villages, called New Deer 
 
 L 2 and
 
 ( 1 64 ) 
 
 and Old Deer, to Peterhead. From Bamff ta 
 New Deer, about fixteen miles. The land 
 here belongs chiefly to Lord Fife j a great 
 part of it is in a high flate of improvement, 
 It is moftly corn land, though there is fome 
 fit for the fattening of cattle, to which ufe a 
 part of it is applied. Many of the bullocks 
 are fo large, as to amount, when fattened, to 
 the value of 25!. At Old Deer is the remains 
 of an old abbey, and near it is held a large 
 fair annually for cattle, for which they were 
 preparing as we palled. From this place to 
 Peterhead, a fpace of lixteen miles, the foil is 
 a cold ftiff clay : the crops very thin, and 
 backward. 
 
 Wednefday, July 20. Peterhead is a neat 
 little^ town, fituated on a peninfula. It con- 
 tains about 3000 people. They have lately 
 built a new pier, of granite, which coft Soool. 
 The harbour will now contain about twenty 
 veflels., They have twelve feet water at the 
 pier-head. The commerce here is very con- 
 fiderable to the Baltic and Dantzic, for deals, 
 
 hemp,
 
 hemp, &c. Seventeen veffels are employed 
 in this and the coafting trade, and three 
 large lloops are annually fcnt to fifli among 
 the Weftern Iflands, and the Hebrides, where 
 they catch great quantities of cod and ling, 
 which they fait, and fell to the inhabitants of 
 the Weftern Highlands. There is a great 
 deal of fifh caught alfo at Peterhead, and 
 feterburgh : near 2000 barrels of cod an- 
 nually, which is fent to different towns on 
 the coaft, and fome of it to London. At 
 Peterhead is a veiy good mineral fpring, 
 which is confidered as very efficacious in re- 
 moving any complaint in the bowels. It 
 operates as a very ftrong diuretic. Near 
 the fpring is a very good ball-room, under 
 which there are two falt-water baths. In 
 the feafon this is a place of polite refort. The 
 town is neat, and well built, and the inn a 
 very good one. Eight hundred people are 
 employed here, in a faclory for fewing- 
 thread. The girls earn from five-pence to 
 fifteen-pence per diem. The harbour is fafe, 
 
 and
 
 ( '66 ) 
 
 and eafy of accefs. Turbot are frequently 
 fold here for four- pence, weighing twenty 
 pounds. From Peterhead go to Bownefs, a 
 fmall fifhing-town, where are the celebrated 
 Bullers, or Boilers of Buchan : a great hol- 
 low in a rock projecting into the fea, open at 
 the top, through which you may fee the boats 
 laying in a bafon, below which is a good har- 
 bour for them in bad weather. About two 
 miles fouth of this place, is Slane's Cafcle, the 
 feat of the Earl of Errol, a very old houfe, 
 forming a quadrangle in the middle. Its 
 fituation is very curious, being upon the top 
 of a rock, almofl perpendicular from the fea, 
 and entirely expofed to thp violence of the 
 winds from the eaftward. In a ftorm, the 
 fpray of the fea actually dailies upon the 
 houfe : but when it was built, this incon- 
 venience was trifling, when the fecurity it 
 afforded from favage neighbours was confi- 
 dered. It is, two thirds, furrounded by 
 t water. On the accefiible fide, there was a 
 ditch and drawbridge, but now both are de- 
 
 flroyed.
 
 ( 167 ) 
 
 ftroyed. The houfe has little or no furniture 
 in it, and is much neglected. The gardens 
 are turned into corn-fields. Near the houfe 
 are fome remarkable rocks, on which thou- 
 fands of fea-birds build their nefts. One of 
 thofe rocks forms a natural arch of at leaft 
 fixty feet high. About half a mile north of 
 the houfe is a mineral well, which feems to 
 have the fame quality as that at Peterhead. 
 From S lanes go to Elian, a fmall village, 
 where the Earl of Aberdeen has a houfe, with 
 fome tolerable plantations about it : but we 
 were refufed leave to walk through any of 
 them, or to fee the inficle of the houfe : the 
 only inftance of this fort we have met with 
 in Scotland. From Elian to Aberdeen is 
 fixteen miles, of very bad country. The 
 greateft part is black heath, full of rocks and 
 large ftones ; fo that the plough, except in 
 a few fpots, cannot enter it. At the north 
 end of Old Aberdeen, is an elegant Gothic 
 $rc!i, turned over the River Don j a large 
 
 deep
 
 ( 168 ) 
 
 and deep river running through a glen, till 
 it comes near the fea. 
 
 Old Aberdeen confifts of one ftreet only, 
 and the houfes are very indifferent. There 
 is a College, called King's College, founded by 
 James IV. At prefent about 150 ftudents 
 belong to it, eighty of whom have apart- 
 ments in the college. The reft muft lodge 
 out of it, for want of room. Commons are 
 provided for them in the college, but they 
 are at liberty to eat in or out of it as they 
 think proper. This building is by no means 
 uniform or ftriking, except the top of the 
 tower, which is turned in two arches, fup- 
 porting the crowns, and has rather an ele- 
 gant appearance. The library is a good 
 room, and contains an excellent collection of 
 antient and modern books, with fome very 
 curious oldmanufcripts. The chapel, which 
 joins the library, is very old, and much out 
 of repair. The hall is a large well-propor- 
 tioned room, very ill furniihed ; but it has 
 fome good portraits in it. There are profef- 
 
 fors
 
 ( '69 ) 
 
 fors here of all the fciences, and their 
 falarics are but fmall. Hence, they pay 
 great attention, I am told, to their dif- 
 ferent departments. If a man has a difpo- 
 fition to obtain learning and information, 
 he may acquire them here at a fmall ex- 
 pence j and without this difpofition, he will 
 acquire them no where. Their vacation 
 happened at this time, which laftsfix months. 
 During the other fix, leclures are continu- 
 ally read, and the ftudents are called on, as 
 at fchools, to give an account of their kf- 
 fons. 
 
 New Aberdeen, fituated between the Rivers 
 Don and Dee, is a large and well-built city, 
 adjoining to the old town of that name. 
 Some of the ilreets are v/ide, and the houfes 
 lofty and fpacious : they are all built of gra- 
 nite, the fame kind of flone which is fentfrom 
 hence to pave the ftreets of London. This 
 flone is fo hard, that no people can work it 
 except thofe who have been accuftomed to it 
 from their youth. The inftrument they ufe 
 
 is
 
 is very fimple : it is a kind of hammer with 
 two fharp points. The principal art in 
 working this ftone feerns to me to be perfe- 
 verance. And who will deny that an Aber- 
 deen's man pofTefTes this quality ? The ftone, 
 however, when it is worked, looks well, and 
 muft be very durable. The public buildings 
 here, are two large kirks, clofe together, and 
 Gordon's School, at fome diftance from the 
 city, with a large garden round it. This 
 fchool, which is a handfome ftone building, 
 fupports and educates eighty boys, in reading,, 
 writing, arithmetic, French, &c. A college 
 here, founded by Earl Marifchal, about the, 
 fame fize as King's College, is attended by 
 the fame number of ftudents, but none of 
 thofe live in the college. The library here is 
 much inferior to that of the other feminary. 
 The hall is a handfome room, with a full 
 length picture of Lord Bute, a half length of 
 Lord Buchan, and fome other good portraits. 
 The mufeum is a fmall room, containing a 
 very indifferent colleclipn of curiofities, hut 
 
 a nnm-
 
 ( '7' ) 
 
 a number of excellent mftruments for expe- 
 rimental philofophy. The town-hall is a 
 fpacious and elegant room. Here is alfo a 
 grammar fchool, and an hofpital, a very plain 
 building, which fends out between 7 and 800 
 patients annually. The two cities of Aber- 
 deen contain about 13,000 fouls, and about 
 3,000 in the fuburbs. 
 
 The trade of Aberdeen is chiefly to Hol- 
 land and the Baltic, and a veflel or two to 
 Oporto. Its manufactures and trade, woo! T 
 len, thread, and cotton {lockings, but chiefly 
 woollen, of which they fend a great quantity 
 annually to Holland and Germany : falmon, 
 grain, dried fkate, ling, cod, &c. The pier 
 of Aberdeen is 1 200 feet long, built in a cir- 
 cular form, for the purpofe of keeping the 
 River Dee within certain bounds, to clear the 
 harbour, and obtain a fufficient draught of 
 water ; which has had the defired effect, for 
 they have now thirteen feet water over the 
 bar, which will admit of fhips of four hun- 
 dred tons burthen. This pier coft 16,000!. 
 It is very ftrong, and built of granite. At 
 
 Aberdeen
 
 Aberdeen is an exceeding good market for 
 all forts of meat and vegetables, and a great 
 variety of fifh. The inn kept by Mr. 
 Smith is a very good one. 
 
 Friday, 22d July. Leave Aberdeen, and 
 crofs the Dee, a very large river, over which 
 is an elegant bridge of feven arches. About 
 a mile and a half from the bridge, on the 
 Stonehaven road, is a beautiful view of the 
 city, with a number of neat country houfes 
 round it. From this hill the road runs near 
 the fea all the way to Stonehaven, and is very 
 dreary : no trees to be feen, except now and 
 then a fmall plantation of firs. Some few 
 fpots are converted into corn land and grafs, 
 but heath prevails. The huts are little bet- 
 ter than the Highland ones. 
 
 Stonehaven is a fmall village, fituated in a 
 rocky bay, The inhabitants are chiefly fup- 
 ported by fifhing. They have four or five 
 iloops here, of forty or fifty tons burthen, 
 which they employ in the fifhery, and go to 
 Aberdeen, and other places on the coaft to 
 
 difpofe
 
 ( '73 ) 
 
 difpofe of what they get. The fifh gene- 
 rally taken are, cod, ling, haddocks, and fkate, 
 and fometimes they take a great quantity of 
 dog-fifh, from which they extract oil. 
 
 About a mile from Stonehaven, to the fouth, 
 are the ruins of Dunotter-Caftle, the antient 
 feat of the Earls Marifchal of Scotland, on a 
 high perpendicular rock, almoft furrounded 
 by the fea. On the acceffible part, which is 
 very narrow, there are three gate-ways within 
 each other, and to each was formerly affixed 
 a port cullife. This place, before cannon 
 were in ufe, muft have been impregnable : it 
 has been very large, and capable of contain- 
 ing feveral hundred men. Sleep at Stone- 
 haven. The only factory here is a fmall one 
 for canvafs, carried on by fome people of 
 Aberdeen. 
 
 Saturday, 23d July. In the morning 
 leave Stonehaven, and go to Inverbervie. 
 The road runs on cliffs all the way by the 
 fea- fide. The foil is in many places very 
 good, and tolerably cultivated. 
 
 Inver-
 
 Inverbervie is a fmall village between two 
 hills, which terminate in high cliffs towards 
 the Tea. The vale behind it is very pleafant and 
 fertile. The people of this village are chiefly 
 employed in making fewing-thread. Go 
 from Inverbervie to Montrofei fifteen miles 
 of highly cultivated land, great part of it in- 
 clofed. The wheat, beare, and oats, remark- 
 ably good, and the grafs very thick. There 
 are feveral good houfes near the road, with 
 tolerable plantations about them. The 
 farm-houfes, and even the cottages, in this 
 part of the country, are well built and com- 
 fortable. Two miles from Montrofe is an 
 elegant bridge of feven arches, over the River 
 North-Efk, built by the people of Montrofe, 
 at the expence of 6,500!. a very liberal do- 
 nation to the public, for on this bridge there 
 is no toll-gate. The King, out of the for- 
 feited eftates, granted them the aid of 8ool. 
 
 Montrofe is a confiderable town, well built 
 of flone, and has one very wide ftreet in it. 
 It is fituated on a fandy plain, and clcfe by it 
 
 runs
 
 runs the river South-Elk, which is navigable, 
 up to the town for (hips of 3 or 400 tons. 
 Larger fhips may come in, as there are 
 eighteen feet water over the bar, but the vef- 
 fels they generally employ are about 200 tons. 
 A great deal of coarfe linen cloth, called. 
 Ofnaburghs, is made here for exportation : 
 alfo canvafs and fewing-thread : a great deal 
 of malt too, is made for exportation. At 
 Montrofe is an Englifli chapel, a neat build- 
 ing, with an organ in it. The town-houfc 
 is a handfome building on porticos. To the 
 weft of the town is a bafon, nearly two miles 
 wide, through which runs the South-Elk 
 River. This bafon is full at high water, and 
 dry at half-ebbs. Were there water enough 
 in it for veflels to lie in, it would be as con- 
 venient a harbour as any in Britain. A 
 great quantity of falmon is caught here, in, 
 the North and South-Elk Rivers, but this 
 year the fifhermen have been rather unfuc- 
 cefsful. Montrofe is well fupplied with filh, 
 and provifions of all kinds. In the neigh- 
 bourhood
 
 ( '76 ) 
 
 bourhood are feveral country-houfes, fome 
 of them belonging to the merchants of Mon- 
 trofe. Ail the country round is covered 
 with corn. 
 
 Sunday, 24th July, Leave Montrofe, and 
 go toForfar, twenty- three miles. Pafs a fmall 
 town called Brechin, where there is an old 
 houfe, well furrounded by trees, belonging to 
 Lord Panmurc. Sleep at Forfar, a fmall town : 
 thehoufes very indifferent. This feerns tobs 
 the richeft country in Scotland, of equal ex- 
 tent 3 for the whole of it, as far eaft and weft 
 as the eye can carry, and to the north as far 
 as the Grampian Mountains, the land is co- 
 vered with corn, chiefly beare and oats : the 
 proportion of wheat appears to be fmall. 
 The crops are all very thick and ftrong.. 
 Near the town of Forfar is a fmall piece of 
 water, upon the eftate of Lord Strathmore, 
 the bottom of which is fine marl. This 
 fmall fpot is fo valuable, that it has pro- 
 duced iSool. per annum. 
 
 Monday,
 
 Monday, 2 5th July. Leave Forfar in 
 the morning, and ride fix miles to Glamis- 
 Caftle, belonging to Lord Strathmore. This 
 antient caftle is fituated on a plain, and fur- 
 rounded by extenfive woods and plantations. 
 The centre, and one wing of the caftle, are 
 entire : the other wing has been taken down. 
 The caftle is very high, with a number of cu- 
 rious and conical turrets on the top : there 
 are at leaft fifty rooms in it ftill, though only 
 part of it remains. In the centre, to which 
 you afcend by a number of large ftone fteps, 
 is a fpacious hall with a cove ceiling, which, 
 with its furniture, feems to have fuffered no 
 alteration fince the caftle was firft built. It 
 is truly defcriptive of its former favage inha- 
 bitants. The whole of the caftle feems well 
 calculated for the perpretation of the horrid 
 deed which Shakefpear has recorded. In 
 the front of the houfe are feveral large fta- 
 tues of the Stuart family, caft in lead, and a 
 very curious fun-dial fupported by four lions. 
 
 M After
 
 After leaving Forfar, the road is frequent- 
 ly bounded by thorn hedges, a fight very un^ 
 tifual to us j for, except what is called the po- 
 licies about the noblemen and gentlemen's 
 houfes, which are but thinly fcattered, lit- 
 tle wood, and no inclofure i-s to be feen. 
 Dine at Coupar, a fmall village with a very 
 bad public houfe. In the evening go about a 
 mrle out of the roted to fee the old palace of 
 Scone, which now belongs to Lord Stormont. 
 The gateway and part of the old front of 
 the palace now only remain. Lord S tor- 
 ment has made many additions to it by build- 
 ing feveral habitable rooms, and means 
 dccafionally to refide here. This palace, 
 renowned for the place where the kings of 
 Scotland were crowned, is very pleafantly fi- 
 tuated on the bank of the River Tay, and 
 commands a beautiful view of the river and 
 the neighbouring hills, with part of the town 
 of Perth. 
 
 Acrofs the Tay, there is thrown a bridge 
 of eleven arches, which coft about 25,000!. 
 A large fum was contributed for this ftruc- 
 
 ture
 
 ( '79 ) 
 
 ture by Government, out of the fund for 
 making and repairing roads in North-Bri- 
 tain, and the revenue arifing from the for- 
 feited eftates, which was feldom fo well em- 
 ployed, being generally wafted in ftipends 
 for infolent factors, or land-flewards, or in 
 donations to fuch fpeculative projectors, as 
 happened to enjoy the favour of the leading 
 men among the truftees. But, befides what 
 was given, with equal liberality and wifdonij 
 by Government, contributions to the a- 
 mount of 17,000!. were raifed in different 
 parts of the country, all more or lefs con- 
 cerned in an eafy communication, at fo 
 centrical a fituation, between the northern 
 and fouthern parts of Scotland. The bridge 
 of Perth, extended over the greateft weight 
 of water in Britain, is a noble inflance of 
 the power of art over nature, and a glorious 
 monument to the memory of a neighbouring 
 nobleman, through whofe exertions it was 
 begun, continued, and happily finifhed. 
 The Earl of Kinnoull, after many years 
 .M 2 fpent
 
 fpent in very honourable public life, in the 
 courfe of which he took a very warm part, 
 under the Adminiftration of Mr. Pelham, in 
 the abolition of hereditary jurifdiclions, con- 
 tinued his habits of beneficent activity in 
 retirement. His eftates in the neighbour- 
 hood of Perth are beautified with commo- 
 dious farm-houfes for his tenants > the land 
 divided into inclofures, and flickered by 
 rifing hedges ; and all his people, infrructed 
 by him, like the father of a numerous fa- 
 mily, in the principles of hufbandry, and 
 indulged with leales on reafonable terms, 
 are diftinguifhed among their neighbours by 
 every mark of profperity. Loncarty, the 
 fcene of action where the founder of his fa- 
 mily gained immortal renown, by reprefiing 
 the victorious fury of the Danes, lies on the 
 Tay, about three miles north from Perth, 
 and is now as remarkable for the arts of 
 peace, as it was formerly for the oppofition 
 of arms. In thofe fields, which arc now co- 
 vered with linen cloth, or luxuriant crops of 
 
 wheat,
 
 wheat, and other grain, fwords, fpears, and 
 targets, occafionally dug up in the courfe of 
 agriculture, and in the formation of canals 
 for the purpofes of bleaching, add every 
 day new documents of the authenticity of 
 the Scottiih hiftory. In the vicinity of 
 Perth are fome of the moft extenfive bleach- 
 ing-fields to be found in Scotland : and here 
 the linen* manufacture flouriflies greatly in 
 all its branches. Here, too, the cotton ma- 
 nufactures begin to thrive, under the fofter- 
 . ing care of the Duke of Athol, Mr. Graham 
 of Balgowan, Mr. Dempfter, and, above all, 
 of that ingenious and excellent citizen, Mr. 
 Arkwright. The river, which is navigable 
 by (hips of 200 tons, confpires with an in- 
 land fituation, and that vaft extent of coun- 
 try watered by the Ern, the Tay, the Turn- 
 mel, and the Iflay, of all which it is the na- 
 tural port and emporium, contribute to ren- 
 der Perth one of the moft profperous places 
 in North-Britain. Nor mould it be forgot- 
 ten, on this fubjecl, that thefe favourable 
 M 3 cir-
 
 ( 182 ) 
 
 circumftances have been duly feconded and 
 improved, by the induftry and enterprizing 
 fpirit of certain individuals, and particularly 
 the family of the Sandemans, and of late, 
 by the fpirited exertions of Macalpine. It 
 may alfo be obferved, amongft the natural 
 prerogatives of the town of Perth, that, 
 from its fituation, it has naturally become a 
 poft for armies, in times of civil war, and a 
 military ftation, in times of peace. This is 
 the fource of fome of thofe capitals, which 
 are at this day happily employed in manu- 
 factures and commerce. Another confi- 
 derable fource of profperity to Perth, is the 
 falmon fifhery, the greateft in all Scotland, 
 and improved to its full extent by the inge- 
 nuity and enlarged views of Mr. Richardfon. 
 The Tay, about a mile below Perth, fudden- 
 ly difappears, and is loft between the lofty 
 Cliff of Kinnoull, and the Hill of Moncrieft : 
 
 fo that the mails of veffcls, like the neigh- 
 
 r 
 
 bouring plantations of wood, feem to have 
 fprung up from the ground, not to have been 
 
 wafted
 
 jtvafted from the ocean. On the northern 
 and the eaftern banks of the Tay, from 
 fhefe twin hills to Dundee, lies a diftrift of 
 amazing fertility, called the Carfe of Cowrie, 
 twenty miles in length, and, on an average, 
 about three miles in breadth. Two miles to 
 the eaftward of the Hill of Moncrieff, the 
 Jliver Ern falls into the Tay, now expanded 
 jnto an eftuary or frith, having a part of 
 pife-fhire on the fouth, and the fertile plain 
 juft mentioned, the common granary of 
 Perth and Dundee, on the north. 
 
 The configuration, and relative pofitioa 
 of the Hills of Moncrieffand Kinnoull, and 
 of the Hill of Dunfinnanc,, about four miles 
 north-eaft from tl\e latter, ftrikes the fpec- 
 fator, as by a fenfation, with the truth of 
 what has been remarked by natural hiflo- 
 rians, that hills lying in the fame meridional 
 direction, have their fleepeft and boldefl 
 faces towards the weft. Thefe diftinguifhcd 
 eminences prefent, uniformly, perpendicular 
 fronts to the fouth-weft, and terminate, by 
 M 4 gradual
 
 C 184 ) 
 
 gradual flopings, in the valleys or plains 
 on the north and eaft. A fimilar obferva- 
 tion may be made on the general fliape and 
 fituation of all the mountains in Britain ; 
 but where three hills, fimilarly fhaped and 
 fituated, burft upon your Tight at one view, 
 companions and inferences are unavoidable. 
 The old towns in Great Britain, as well as 
 on the Continent, are, almoft without ex- 
 ception, built by accident, and without a 
 plan. Their ftreets, or lanes, are crowded 
 and narrow, and their general contour is ir- 
 regular. Perth and St. Andrews are among 
 the few, if not the only antient towns in 
 Scotland, that have been evidently formed 
 by defign : both of them confiding of pa- 
 rallel and wide ftreets, joined by others crof- 
 fing them at right angles. It is farther to 
 be obferved, concerning Perth that different 
 flreets and lanes appear to have been very 
 early allotted, probably from its foundation, 
 to the different craftfmen. At this day, and 
 as far back as memory, tradition, or written 
 
 records
 
 records carry up the refearches, and gra- 
 tify the curiofity of the local antiquarian, 
 fellow-craftfrnen, with a few exceptions, 
 are conflantly found inhabiting the fame 
 quarter of the town, or the fame flreets. 
 The fkinners, or furriers corporation, live 
 in one ftreet, with certain adjacent clofes 
 and allies ; the weavers ir. a fecond ; the 
 hammer-men in a third ; the fhop-kccpers, 
 or, as they are called, merchants, in a fourth; 
 the butchers, before the erection of a flefh- 
 market, in a fifth ; and fo on. On the 
 north and the fouth fides of the town, are 
 two ex ten five and beautiful fields of mea- 
 dow, or pafture land, never yet fubdued by 
 the plough, bounded on the eaft by the ri- 
 ver, each of them about a mile and an half 
 in circumference, and that on the fouth fide 
 planted round with a double row of planes 
 and elms, and other foreft trees. A wing, 
 or fpur, according to the antient idiom of 
 the Caledonians, of the Hill of Moncrieff, 
 (loped down into gentle eminences, covered 
 
 with
 
 with plantations of wood, half encircle this 
 .delightful fpot on the fouth and the weft ; 
 while the bafe of the Hill of Kinnoull, 
 planted, in like manner, with trees, ftretclv 
 ing, and uniting by flow degrees with a yaft 
 plain, bounded on the north by the Gram- 
 pian Mountains, and on either hand by the 
 ocean, ihelters and adorns it on the eail. 
 That plain, which, from its large extent, is 
 called Strathmore, is terminated on the ea# 
 by the German Ocean at Stonehaven, and on 
 the weft, by the eftuary of Clyde at Dun- 
 barton. Its northern boundary has been 
 already mentioned : its fbuthern is formed 
 by a range of hills, running parallel with 
 the Grampians, but which, its contiguity 
 being in two or three places interrupted by 
 the courfe of rivers, is to be confidered un- 
 .der three fub-divifions. The firft of thefe., 
 beginning our furvey from the eaft, is, or 
 may be, by a fmall extenfion of the term, 
 called the Sidley Hills, rifmg to the fouth- 
 of Forfar in Angus, and falling from 
 
 their
 
 their height, as they ftretch in a wefterly 
 courfe along the northern edge of the Carfe 
 of Cowrie, till they rife again fuddenly in 
 the Hills of Kinnoull and Moncrieff, that 
 emphatically mark the weftern extremity of 
 the colonade. The fecond is the Ochills, 
 bc^innin^ near the moft northern and eal- 
 
 o o 
 
 terly extremity of Fife, on the ibuthern 
 banks of the Frith of Tay, oppofite to Dun- 
 dee, and terminating in the Kippen Hills, 
 near Stirling. The third and laft fub-divi- 
 fion of that range of hills which forms the 
 fouthern boundary of that great ftrath, or 
 valley, which interfecrs the ifland, is the 
 Campfey Hills, which gradually fink and 
 difappear near Dunbarton, and which {hoot 
 off a branch, in a fouth-eafterly direction, 
 towards Kirkintilloch. 
 
 Between the firft and fecond of thefe fub- 
 divifions, then, which are formed by the 
 great rivers of the Tay and the Forth, and 
 nearly at an equal didance from the eaftern 
 and weftern boundaries of that fpacious 
 
 plain
 
 plain which runs acrofs the iiland, ftands 
 the Town of Perth, celebrated in the Scot- 
 tifh hiftory, as the frequent feat of Parli- 
 aments, and the refidence of Kings, who 
 exercifed there the prerogative of coining 
 money, and other a<5ts of royalty, and from 
 ' whofe bounty it derived, and now enjoys, a 
 valuable domain, as well as many immuni- 
 ties, rights, and privileges. 
 
 The Town of Perth, called antiently 
 Bertha, was, in former times, fituated on 
 the northern banks of the Almon, near the 
 junction of that river with the Tay. But, 
 in the year 1,200, in the reign of William, 
 the town, with the very foil on which it 
 flood, was fwept off in one night, by a 
 dreadful inundation of the rivers. In this 
 calamity many of the inhabitants, with their 
 fubflance, loft their lives. An infant fon of 
 the King's, with his nurfe, and fourteen do- 
 medics, were among the number of thofe 
 that perifhed. A new Bertha, or, as it is 
 called, Perth, by a change in pronun- 
 ciation
 
 ( 189 ) 
 
 elation incident to all living languages, was 
 built on a fertile plain, two miles below, on 
 the fame river. Hence the regularity and 
 beauty of Perth, formed on a regular plan 
 by the Court of Scotland, which held at this 
 period, and for many years before, an inti- 
 mate correfpondence both with France and 
 Italy. Nobles, princes of the blood, kings 
 themfelves left, for a time, the fequcftered 
 and rude regions of their native Caledonia, to 
 difplay their valour, and acquire new accom- 
 plifhments on the Continent. England, 
 which divided Scotland from France by local 
 fituation, united it to that kingdom by the 
 band of hoftility to a common enemy. And 
 thus, from the northerly pofition of Scot- 
 land, which connected it by political intrigues 
 with the enemies of England, Scottifh tra- 
 vellers and foldiers of fortune, imported into 
 their country, in times of very general bar- 
 barifm, feme cuftoms and modes of thinking 
 that were either unknown, or, from animo- 
 fity, rejected by their fouthern neighbours. 
 
 This
 
 f 19 ) 
 
 This conclufion, which might be fairly 
 drawn, even by reafoninga/>r/cr/, from mo- 
 ral nature, and the hiftory of nations, is 
 placed beyond doubt, by hiftoricat records, 
 and the very texture of the Scottifh dialecl, 
 in the earliest fpecimens of which, we meet 
 with words of both French and Italian ex- 
 traction. 
 
 There was formerly a wooden bridge at 
 Perth, which was fwept away towards the end 
 of the lafl century, by an uncommon flood, 
 in that feafon when difTolving mows, pour- 
 ing down in liquid torrents from the Gram- 
 pians, rend afunder the icy chains that bind 
 the river, and dam. them with irrefiftible 
 force againft every obftacle. After the de- 
 molition of this wooden ftructure, an army, 
 fent by King William againft the infurgents 
 in the north, pafied over the Tay on the ice. 
 From the old wooden ftruclure, a very 
 unfit antagonift to the Tay, the village of 
 Bridge-End, directly oppofite to Perth, which 
 appears to be riling rapidly into importance, 
 
 derives
 
 derives its name. A caufeway, fliM almoft 
 entire, with an arch covered with flag-ftones 
 thrown over every brook, extending from 
 Bridge- End, connected Perth with Scone* 
 at once a monaftery and royal palace. Here 
 the fatal marble ftone, concerning which 
 there was a prophecy, that wherever it fhould 
 be found, a Scot would wear the crown, was 
 depofited by Kenneth the Second, who is 
 confidered by the hiftorians, if not as the 
 firft, yet as the mofl fubftantial founder of 
 the Scottifh monarchy. This ftone, which, 
 according to hiftories built on early tradi- 
 tion, was brought from Spain into Ireland, 
 from Ireland into Argylefhire, to which, by 
 a bold head-land it is almoft united, and 
 from Dunftaffhagc, in Argylefhire, to the 
 centre of Scotland, was carried to Wefrmin- 
 fter-Abbey by Edward I. of England, who, 
 uniting barbarifm with profound policy, la- 
 boured, by deflroying or cany ing away 
 whatever might ferve to awaken a proud fpi- 
 rit of independence, to impofe the yoke of 
 
 flavery
 
 C 192 ) 
 
 Havery on an harrafTed and humbled peo- 
 ple. From the time of Kenneth II. about 
 the middle of the fourteenth century, to that 
 of James VII. the Kings of Scotland were 
 crowned at Scone, which was alfo the mofh 
 common place of their refidence. 
 
 The Kings of Scotland, in the choice of a 
 place of refidence, naturally wiihed to unite, 
 as much as poffible, amenity, fafety, and cen- 
 trical fituation. It would be difficult to find, 
 in the whole kingdom of Scotland, a fpot 
 that unites all thefe advantages more happily 
 than Scone. The greater! plain in Scotland, 
 bounded by the greateft ridge of mountains, 
 enhanced the magnificence of each by the light 
 of contraft, while the Tay, rolling with im- 
 petuous majefty through fertile fields, fpread 
 far and wide below the terrace on which the 
 palace {lands, fuddenly hides his head be- 
 tween the Hills of Moncrieft and Kinnoull. 
 This rapid river formed a flrong barrier 
 againft any fudden attack from the Picls and 
 the Englifh : perfonal fafety was fecured by 
 
 the
 
 ( 193 ) 
 
 the facredncifc of the place j and no fpot could 
 be fixed on that was at once fo fecure and 
 centrical. 
 
 Tuefday, 26th July. Leave Perth in the 
 morning, and pa/Ting through the South 
 Inch, afcend a gentle eminence, formed by 
 tlie doping bafe of the Hill of Moncrieff al- 
 ready mentioned, over which the great road 
 is carried to Edinburgh, called the Cloven 
 Craggs. Here the traveller from the fouth 
 is ftruck with the fudden appearance of 
 Strathmore, and the Grampians, the Tay, 
 with the town and the bridge of Perth : and 
 the traveller from the north, with the charm- 
 ing valley of Strath-Ern, through which a 
 river of confiderable magnitude, ifiuing from 
 a lake of that name, about twenty-four miles 
 diftant from its junction with the Tay, me- 
 anders in a moft romantic and pleafing man- 
 ner. It is bounded on the fouth by the 
 Ochills, green, and foftly-fwelling hills, un- 
 der luxuriant cultivation, and covered with 
 
 x 
 
 grafs to their higheft fummits. Gentle ac- 
 clivities rife from its northern banks, which 
 N here
 
 ( 194 ) 
 
 liere and there feem to difcriminate Stratli- 
 Ern from Strathmore, but which fink and 
 difappear when you afcend any eminence j fo 
 that the courfes of both the Ern and the 
 Tay are feen as one varied and vaft expanfe. 
 Strath-Em is fuller of gentlemen's family 
 feats, than any other diftri6t of equal extent 
 in Scotland. The lower part of the valley, 
 which is a continuation, as it were, of the 
 Carfe of Cowrie, from which it is feparated 
 by the Tay, is extremely fertile, and highly 
 cultivated - } and here frauds Abernethy, the 
 capital of the Picts. But the great number 
 of gentlemen's feats with which Strath-Em 
 abounds, is not to be accounted for from its 
 fertility only : for the Carfe of Gowrie, and 
 other tracts, are equally fertile, though not 
 fo well adorned with commodious and elegant 
 inanfions. The Lower Strath-Em, commen- 
 cing from a promontory of the Ochills, 
 called Craig- Roffie, is inhabited by noblemen 
 and gentlemen, who have part of their eflates 
 in the hilly region on the fouth fide, or in the 
 
 lefs
 
 ( '95 ) 
 
 'lefs fheltered, as well as lefs beautiful plain 
 of Strath more, on the north. And the Upper 
 Strath-Em, extending from the promontory 
 juft mentioned to Loch-Em, is not only the 
 abode of the gentlemen whofe fole property 
 is on the fpot, but alfo of others whofe 
 eftates only touch, as it were, on Strath-Ern 
 and which lie, for the greateft part, back- 
 ward amidft the Grampian Mountains, 
 Amongft the delightful places of refidence, 
 enclofed in the bofom of woods, or planta- 
 tions, which adorn Strath-Ern, are Lawers, 
 on a fhclf of a mountain, about four miles 
 below Loch-Ern, the refidence of Sir James, 
 and Colonel Muir Campbell, who fucceeded 
 to the title and eftates of the Earl of Laud- 
 hon. Two miles farther down the Ern, you 
 are ftruck with Auchtertyre, in the midil of 
 a natural wood, alfo on the fide of a moun- 
 tain, with the Lake or Loch of Monivair4 
 immediately below, and the united width 
 of Strath-Ern and Strathmore for a profpecl. 
 This is the romantic manfionof Sir William 
 N 2 Murray,
 
 ( 196 ) 
 
 Murray, who happily uniting philofophy 
 with practice, has ihewn the world, how 
 much it is in the power of human art to ex- 
 trad a plentiful crop from a barren foil. 
 This reflection carries our view eaftward to 
 Dollerie, the refidence of the Laird of Crieff, 
 who has alfo forced the cold and barren 
 moor to wear the livery of the verdant lawn; 
 and who, uniting a tafte for literature and 
 general improvement with the antient hof- 
 pitality, and fome of the antient prejudices, 
 too, of his country, exhibits an originality 
 of character, not lefs amiable than refpec- 
 table. Mr. Murray of Abercarnie, on the one 
 fide of Dollerie, and Captain Drurnmond of 
 Pitkellenie on the other, (hew how many 
 ufeful leffbns, in agriculture arid general im- 
 provement, may be learnt by gentlemen of 
 the army. 
 
 On a wing of the lofty mountain of Ben- 
 voirloch, which rifes by a gentle afcent from 
 Loch-Ern, till its precipitous fouth-weftern 
 front is feen by a fpectator from Stirling 
 
 Cattle,
 
 ( '97 ) 
 
 Caftle, in a line with thofe of Ben-Lomond, 
 Ben-more, and Ben-Leddia, ftands Caftle- 
 Drummond, commanding Strath more, as far 
 as the eye, unoppofed by hills or banks, can 
 reach, and down Strath-Ern and the Carfe of 
 Cowrie, to the town of Dundee. Machany, 
 the antient feat of the noble family of 
 Strathallan, would have fhewn to Dr. John- 
 fon, if he had happened to vifit it, that tim- 
 ber trees grow in Scotland ; and that a vene- 
 ration for the antient ceremonies and orders 
 of the church, is not baniflied wholly from 
 the main-land to the ifles on the weftern 
 fhores of Scotland. It is impollible to pafs 
 over the venerable beauties of Innerpaffray, 
 fronting Caftle-Drummond, in a concavity 
 of the ferpentinizing Ern, its caftle, the an- 
 tient feat of the Lords of Maderty, its chapel, 
 public library and fchool, both eftablimed 
 for the good of the community, and car- 
 rying back the mind to the antient fituation, 
 and the genius of Scotland, Faffing along 
 the banks of the Ern, on the remains of a 
 N 3 Roman
 
 Roman caufeway, you come to Dupplin, the- 
 refidenceof the Earl of Kinnoull, to whofe 
 eftate, according to the valued rent, thelargeft 
 in Perthfhire, InnerpafFray is, now united. 
 Dupplin-Houfeisfweetlyembofomedinamoft 
 extenfive park, where there are more old trees 
 than in mod other places in Scotland, on a rifing 
 ground that commands the Lower Strath-Era, 
 and at full tide, a view of the Frith of Tay. 
 On the oppofite fide of the valley, on the nor-* 
 them fide of the Ochills, and about a mile 
 weftward, is the houfe, and the wood of In- 
 vermay, the fubjecl of a fine Scotch ballad 
 and air, through which the water of May 
 precipitates itfelf in many a fan taftic form j 
 and, after interfering a pleafant plain be- 
 low, difcharges itfelf into the Ern at the 
 bridge of Forteviot. At Forteviot, a final! 
 village with a church, there once flood a 
 monaftery, with an hunting feat of King 
 Malcolm Canm ore's. Veftiges of the mo- 
 ,naftery weie to be feen at a fmall eminence 
 called the Hafy, that is, the Holy Hill, with- 
 in the memory of the prefent generation : 
 
 but
 
 C ^99 ) 
 
 but 1 palace, monaflery, and the Haly Hill it- 
 felf, are now completely fvvept away by the 
 capricious Tallies of the water of May, which 
 continually changes its gravelly bed, and 
 /ports with the toils of laborious man. It 
 would be tedious to enumerate, much more 
 to defcribe, all the manfions, with adjacent 
 pleafure ground, which run in a continued 
 chain from the conflux of the Em and the 
 May, to that of the former of thefe rivers 
 with the Tay, a courfe of ten miles, and form 
 one fpacious and beautiful enclofure. It 
 may j uft be mentioned, that in this groupe 
 we find the pleafant refidences of Mr. Oli- 
 phant of Roflie, a gentleman diftinguifhed by 
 his ikill in hufbandry, and what is called the 
 police of the country j of Lord Ruthven, of 
 Sir Thomas MoncriefF, and of the Knights 
 of Balmanno, now attached to the eft ate of 
 Invermay. In the Lower Strath-Ern there is 
 a famous fpring of faltifh water, a cathartic 
 vfed with eminent fuccefs in fcorbutic and 
 other cafes, called Pitkethly- Wells. The 
 N 4 Upper
 
 ( 200 ) 
 
 Upper Strath-Ern, from the loch to thevil- 
 lage of Crieff, fituated on a fpur of the GrarrH 
 plans, which advances a little into the noble 
 expanfe formed by the union of Strathmore 
 and Strath-Ern, and which is called the 
 Montpelier of Scotland, is reforted to, in 
 
 the fummer, for the purity of the air, goat- 
 
 \ 
 whey, and its rural charms, by people from 
 
 Edinburgh, Glafgow, and other places. 
 Woods, mountains, lakes, and thefo/umjic* 
 cum cum aquis fuentibus, confpire to render 
 this one of the moft charming fpots that 
 imagination can conceive. Here the people 
 fpeak both Erfe and Englifh. There is not 
 any other place in Scotland where the High- 
 lands and the Gallic tongue penetrate, at this 
 day, fo far into the Low Country. This valley, 
 from its verdant appearance, is called Erne, 
 or green : it was antiently a principality, or 
 county-palatine, and the inheritance of a 
 branch of the royal family of Scotland : and 
 it Hill gives a title to a prince of the blood of 
 
 Where
 
 ( 201 ) 
 
 Where the country rifes by degrees from 
 the bed of the Ern towards the roots of the 
 Ochills, about feventeeti miles from Perth, 
 and nearly the fame diftance from Stirling, 
 ftands a long draggling village, called Auch- 
 terarder, once a royal burgh, but now, 
 knov/n chiefly as the feat of a Prefbytery, dif- 
 tinguifhed by a fmgular union of Popifh and 
 Antinomian principles : claiming the prero- 
 gatives of a Court of Inquifition, exalting 
 the power of the church in temporal con- 
 cerns, reprobating with fuperlative zeal the 
 efficacy of virtue towards future, as well 
 as prcfent happinefs, and magnifying the im- 
 portance of certain metaphyfical notions in 
 theology, which they call atfs of faith : yet it 
 muft not be omitted, that, among that fo* 
 ciety, there are men adorned with found 
 knowledge, and with primitive fimplicity of 
 manners. This place fecms to have lain 
 under the curie of God ever fince it was 
 burnt by the army in 1715. The dark 
 heath of the Moors of Orchill and Tul- 
 libardin, the naked fummits of the Gram-* 
 
 pians,
 
 ( 202 ) 
 
 plans, Feen at a diHance, and the frequent vi- 
 fitations of the Prefbytery, who are eternally 
 recommending faft days, and destroying the 
 peace of fociety by prying into little flips of 
 life, and the defolation of ths place, render 
 Auchterarder a melancholy fcene, wherever 
 you turn your eyes, except towards Perth, 
 and the Lower Strath-Ern, of which it has 
 a partial profpect. About a mile fouth and 
 weft from Auchterarder, in a den formed by 
 the water of Ruthven, and the roots of the 
 Ochills, in the midft of an extenfive wood, 
 jftands Kincardine, the old feat of the Gra- 
 hams, and the refidence of the great Marquis 
 of Montrofe. Directly oppofite to this, at 
 the fouthern roots of the Ochills, and on a 
 wooded peninfula, where the extremity of a 
 doping hill is almoft furrounded by deep 
 water-courfes, in fome places improved by 
 art, Hands Caftle-Campbell, a feat of the 
 Marquis of Argyll's. It was irnpoffible that 
 the heads of two powerful clans, living fa 
 near one another, and on oppofite fides of a 
 narrow range of hills, could be good neigh*. 
 
 hours.
 
 Lours. The Marquis of Argyll burnt the 
 caftle of the Marquis of Montrofe : and the 
 Marquis of Montrofe burnt the caftle of the 
 Marquis of Argyll. 
 
 As we have thus ftepped over the Ochills 
 to Caftle-Campbell, which commands a wfia 
 of the vale of Devon, let us relieve the gloom 
 of Auchterarder, by a profpect of that de- 
 lightful fcene. 
 
 The Devon, a truly paftoral river, rifes in 
 the Aichills,* or Ochills, almoft due north 
 from its entrance into the Forth, and a very 
 few miles, in a direcl line north and fouth, 
 from its mouth ; though the nature of th& 
 ground has forced it to take a very circuitous 
 courfe. From its fource it runs in a fouth- 
 eafterly direction, fometimes ruming preci- 
 pitately down the broken declivities of the 
 mountains, and in others, winding gently in 
 the bottoms between them. The fcenery is, 
 
 almoft 
 
 * The tradition i?, that they are called Alcbilli, which is 
 the fame as Oat~HilLt, from their being formerly covered 
 with oaks. This tradition is probable, as their height is 
 moderate, the foil good, and that trees, when planted there 
 with any judgment, r.v furc to thrive.
 
 ( 204 ) 
 
 almoft every where, delightful ; the verdure 
 is luxuriant, and the variegated ground feafts 
 the eye at every ftep with a novelty of pro- 
 fpecl. At the Yates, or Gates of Muck- 
 hart, which open a communication between 
 Clackmannan-mire and Strath-Ern, it finds 
 a paflage, and defcends into the vale of 
 Devon. Here it runs in an oppofite direc- 
 tion, exactly parallel to its former courfe. 
 It glides along with an infinity of windings 
 to the weft, and then, bending to the fouth, 
 lofes itfelf in the Forth. 
 
 The vale to which the Devon gives its 
 name, is at once fruitful and beautiful : for, 
 though art and induftry have not every where 
 feconded nature, yet the green fwells of the 
 Ochills to the north, the fine meanders of 
 the river amidft meadows and corn-fields, the 
 diftant profpecl of Stirling-Cattle to the weft, 
 the magnificent Forth rolling his waves on 
 the fouth,andthe fertile Carfes of Stirling and 
 Falkirk, covered with villages and gentle- 
 men's feats, bounding the profpect, prefent 
 an afTemblage both grand and pleafarit. The 
 
 Devon,
 
 /'//M.f/if/ ti.. t/ir, let rfirrrt.r .fa/ir 9jrf8Sty(rJfa>t>i/uf>nfcI'artnay
 
 ( 205 ) 
 
 Devon, in one part of the valley, has been 
 obliged to work its way through obrrructing 
 rocks. In the lapfe of ages, it has worn 
 away the fofter parts of the ftone, and form- 
 ed immenfe pits, into which the water falls 
 with a noife and fury truly tremendous. 
 The hollow found which proceeds from the 
 bottom of the chafm, and the boiling tur- 
 bulence occafioned by the fall of the river 
 upon the inequalities of the rocks, appall 
 every fpectator. Juft below this, the whole 
 river is precipitated, in one flieet, from an. 
 height of forty feet, upon huge flones, torn 
 from the face of the rock. This fall, from 
 the boiling appearances jufl mentioned, is 
 called the Chaldron Linn. As objects of this 
 kind are not to be vkwed to advantage from 
 above, it is proper to go down by the north- 
 weft fide of the dell, where the defcent is 
 cafy, that you may have a profpect of the 
 cataract from below. By that way you en- 
 ter a narrow glen, which feems a perfect 
 paradife. The immenfe ilieet of water pour- 
 ing
 
 ( 206 ) 
 
 ing from the rock, exhibiting in its upper 
 parts all the colours of the rainbow, and 
 appearing below, where it falls upon the 
 rocks, like white duft or vapour ; this ad- 
 mirably contrafled by the dark and filent 
 face of the abrupt rock, in moft parts rug- 
 ged and naked, but in fome prefenting a few 
 ihrubs and pendulous trees : thefe circum- 
 ftances united, make an impreflion on the 
 mind of fomething that is folemn and aweful; 
 arreft the giddy tumult of human hopes and 
 fears, and invite to ferious reflection, and 
 fublime contemplation. The cppofite fide 
 of the glen is of a different character. The 
 defcent is gentle and eafy, covered with 
 green and flowery turf, ftrewed, towards the 
 bottom, with rnofiy flones and fragments of 
 rocks, from the fides of which fpring wild- 
 rofe bufh.es, and a variety of other flmibs. 
 Thefe, with the trees that grow over your 
 head, on either fide of the chafm, give /hel- 
 ler to a number of birds that make the vale 
 refound with their forigs. The mind is foon 
 
 tired
 
 tired of objefts by which it is fo ftrongly ex-> 
 cited. The traveller quits the cataracl, and 
 ftrolls by the fide of the river, which, in the 
 courfe of 2 or 300 yards, finks into a cairn, 
 and Heals filently along its banks. 
 
 At Auchterarder we got out of the com 
 country, which extends the whole way from 
 Montrofe to this place, on the fouth fide of 
 the Great Strath, and to Crieff on the north, 
 I do not think that England can produce, in 
 any part of it, a larger tract of better corn. 
 There is not any poit-chaife kept at Auch- 
 terarder, although, as has already been ob- 
 ferved, it is nearly midway between Perth 
 and Stirling. In this part of the country, 
 from Auchterarder to Dunblane, efpecially 
 in the Ochills, they raife a good many black 
 cattle, and a few fheep. At Blackford, as 
 well as at Crieff, there are great annual fairs 
 for black cattle, which are brought thither 
 towards the end of harveft, from all parts of 
 the Highlands, and the Weftern Iflands of. 
 Scotland. In proportion as the country is
 
 improved, this fpecies of traffic muft decay. 
 Even now, it is for the grazier to confider, 
 whether he might not bring his cattle to a 
 better account, by falting or fmoaking the 
 beef, and felling the hides and tallow, than 
 by fending them into England. The cattle 
 yield, on an average, from 4!. 155. to 5!. per 
 bullock : nearly the fame price as in the 
 Highlands. The country between Auch- 
 terarder and Dunblane, where Strathmore is 
 confiderably narrowed by the mutual advan- 
 ces of the Grampians and the Ochills, is, for 
 for the moft part, barren, thinly inhabited, 
 and ill cultivated. Though here and there 
 you meet with a few clumps of ragged firs, 
 the country is in general open and dreary. 
 In the midft of thunder, lightning, and hard 
 rain, the Ochills fcowling.on the one hand, 
 and the horrid Grampians on the other, we 
 paffed by the northern fkirts of the SherifF- 
 Muir, the fcene of action between the King's 
 troops in the year 1715, and thofe of the 
 Pretender, under the Earl of Marr. The 
 
 road
 
 road here is the worft we met with fince we 
 left Fort-William. Pafs through Dunblane^ 
 four miles on this fide of Stirling, in times 
 of epifcopacy a bifhop's fee, and where there 
 is a good library founded, in old times, like 
 that of Innerpaffray, and, on the eftate of 
 the fame proprietor, by a fubfcription among; 
 neighbouring gentlemen, for the inftrucbiori 
 and entertainment of the public. There am 
 funds provided, both at Dunblane and Inner- 
 paffray, for a librarian, for purchafing new 
 books, and for maintaining the ftruclure. 
 that contains them, The hall where the 
 books are kept at Innerpaffray, is a very 
 elegant one : but the falary allowed to the 
 librarian is miferably fmall, and fhould cer- 
 tainly be augmented. In the evening of 
 Tuefday, 26th of July, pafs through the 
 moft beautiful and the richeft part of Strath- 
 Allan; crofs the Forth on a large flone 
 bridge, and arrive at Stirling, where we ftay 
 all night. 
 
 O Stirling,
 
 ( 210 ) 
 
 Stirling, July 27th. In the morning we 
 went to view the caftle. It is built on a 
 high rock, the weft fide of which is at lead 
 an hundred feet perpendicular in heighth, 
 Within the walls is the parliament-houfe, 
 which is a very large room, but now nearly* 
 unroofed, and falling to ruin. The palace, 
 alfo a very large place, is now turned into- 
 barracks for foldiers* The garrifon, at pre- 
 fent, confifts of 100 men, and a fort-major > 
 and about thirty-fix guns are mounted on the 
 ramparts. Tire Town of Stirling is built on 
 the fouth-eaft fide of the r-ock -> the houfes- 
 very old, and the ftreets narrow, 
 
 As the Scottifh nation extended their au- 
 thority fouthward, by their conquefts over 
 the Picls and Danes, and their inter-marri- 
 ages with England, the ufual places of their 
 refidence became more and more fbutherly 
 alfo. Dunftaffanage was exchanged for 
 Scone j Scone for Dunfermlmg and Falkland - y 
 Dunfermling and Falkland for Stirling - r Stir- 
 ling for Liniithgow and Edinburgh; and at 
 
 kfl
 
 la/l Edinburgh for London. But amid/I 
 thefe changes, after the eftablifliment of the 
 monarchy of Scotland, the natural bounda- 
 ries which marked the land, confined, on the 
 whole, the choice of a place of refidence to 
 that fpace which is bounded by the courfes 
 of the Forth and the Tay on the fouth and 
 the north j on the weft, by the riling of the 
 country, towards the middle of the ifland ; 
 and on the eaft, by the ocean. The inter- 
 pofition of the Tay recommended Scone as a 
 proper place of refidence in the hotteft times 
 of war with the Englifh. But, after an al- 
 liance had been formed between the royal fa- 
 milies of the two kingdoms, by the marriage 
 of Margaret, the daughter of Henry VII. of 
 England, and James V. of Scotland ; after 
 hostilities between the two nations began to 
 be interrupted by long intervals, and the ge- 
 nius of both to tend to peace and concili- 
 ation, there was not a fpot in the whole ex- 
 tent of Scotland that fo naturally invited the 
 prefence of the King and the Court, as Stir- 
 O 2 ling.
 
 ( 212 ) 
 
 liiig. It is ftill more centrical to the iiland 
 than Scone : and the fanctity of a monaftery 
 was not ill exchanged for the ftrength of a 
 fortrefs. From the lofty battlements of 
 Stirling-Caflle, the royal eye furveyed with 
 pride the bold out-lines of an unconquered 
 kingdom. The Grampians, the Ochills, the 
 Pentland-Hills, conveyed a juft idea of its na- 
 tural ftrength : the whole courfe of the 
 Forth, with his tributary rivers, from their 
 fource in the Highlands, near Loch- Lomond, 
 winding through Perth-fhire, and wafhing the 
 fhores of Clackmannan and Fife on the 
 north, and thofe of Stirling-fliire, Linlith- 
 gow, and the Lothians, on the fouth, exhi- 
 bited a pleafing profpect of its natural re- 
 fources in fifhing, and in a foil which, 
 though in a rude climate, would not be un^ 
 grateful to the hand of cultivation. From 
 this point of view alfo, the imagination of a 
 Scotchman is led, by many remembrances, to 
 recal to mind the moft important vicifiitudes, 
 and fcenes of action, in the hiftory of his 
 
 coun-
 
 country. The whole extent of Strathmore, 
 from Stirling to Stone-haven, is full of Ro- 
 man camps, and military ways, a matter that 
 has been of late well illuftrated by the inge- 
 nuity and the induftry of General Melville 5 
 and the wall of Agricola, a little towards the 
 fouth of Stirling, extends between the Forth 
 and the Clyde. Bannockburn and Cambuf- 
 kenneth, almoft over-hung by the caftle, re- 
 mind the fpeftator of fortunate, and Pinkie, 
 feen at the diftance of fourteen miles, excites 
 a fainter idea of an unfortunate engage- 
 ment with the Engliih, The Hill of Largo, 
 in Fife, calls to mind the Daniih inva- 
 fions 3 and the Forth was, for ages, the 
 well-contefted boundary between the Scots 
 and the Picls. 
 
 Before we leave Stirling-Caftle, while the 
 keen air yet blows on the fouthward travel- 
 ler with unabated force, from the northern 
 mountains, let us take a fhort view of the 
 genius and character of the Caledonians. 
 '] iicfe have undergone, like thofe of other 
 O 3 nations,
 
 ( 214 ) 
 
 nations, the effects of that revolution and 
 change which is incident to every thing hu^- 
 man. But, not to carry our reviews too far 
 back, which would involve us in hiftorical 
 difquifition,let it fuffice, to exhibit the por- 
 trait that was given of the Scotch Highlan- 
 ders by a great matter, towards the end of 
 the laft century, and then to add a few ob- 
 fervations concerning fome ciivumftances 
 omitted, and others altered, by the intro- 
 duction of arts, and free government. 
 
 The celebrated Mr. Alexander Cunning- 
 ham, the critic on Horace, and tutor, com- 
 panion, and friend to the great John Duke 
 of Argyll, in his Hiftory of Great Britain, 
 from the Revolution to the AccefTion of 
 the Houfe of Hanover, lately publifhed, a 
 work of claffical compofition, great informa- 
 tion, and profound views, when he comes 
 to give an account of the infurreclion head- 
 ed by the Lord Vifcount Dundee, fays, 
 " The King commanded Major-General 
 " Mackay, his Lieutenant in Scotland, to 
 
 march
 
 * march his forces into the northern parts, 
 againft the Vifcount of Dundee, who had 
 f raifed an army of Scotch Highlanders -, a 
 { race of warriors, who fight by inftincl. 
 i Thefeare a diftincT: people from the Low- 
 landers, of different manners, and a dif- 
 ferent language, of a ftrong conftitution 
 ' of body, and by nature warlike. Though 
 of a very ready wit, and great prefence of 
 ' mind, they are utterly unacquainted with 
 arts and difcipline ; for which reafon they 
 c are lefs addicted to hufbandry and harjd- 
 dicrafts than to arms, in which they are 
 exercifed by daily quarrels with one ano- 
 ther. They take mofl pleafure in that 
 courfe of life which was followed by their 
 " anceflors. They ufe but little corn, ex^ 
 " cept in the fhires of Murray and Rofs, 
 " Their food, for the moft part, is milk, cat* 
 *' tie, venifon, and fifli ; and they are much 
 " addicted to pillaging and hunting. Their 
 " children, when newly born, are plunged 
 fl in cold water, not from any ideas of reli* 
 O 4
 
 ( 2l6 } 
 
 te gion, but for the purpofe of giving har- 
 " dinefs and vigour to their bodies, which, 
 " from the continued practice of cold bath- 
 " ing, acquire fuch a degree of firmnefs, 
 <c that they can live in the coldeft climates, 
 <c even in the depth of winter, without any 
 " other cloathing than a plaid ; a garment 
 " fo fcanty, that a great part of their body 
 < may be feen uncovered : nor does this cir- 
 " cumftance, being fanclified by habit, occa- 
 " fion any feelings of modefty. They are 
 ** more attached by a fimilarity of manners 
 " and drefs, and the famenefs of name, than 
 " by the ties of kindred and nature. They 
 " contract more firm friendlhips over a 
 " pinch of tobacco-fnuft, than from any na- 
 <c tural feelings, or inilinct of blood. Their 
 " daily exercife, and fprightly freedom of 
 lt living, increafes both their ftrength and 
 " their flature. Their women are feldom 
 <c married young ; and are, indeed, long un- 
 <e marriageable. They drink not fo much 
 " wine as ale and aqua vitse.* By this kind 
 
 c ' of 
 
 * A Jpirit di/iilled from a kind of barley.
 
 ce of liquor they fancy themfelves to be made 
 " more vigorous ; but that by French wines, 
 " and fweet things, men are rendered effe- 
 <: minate. The fick among them will nei- 
 " ther let blood, nor fufFer a phyfician to be 
 " fent for, left their health ihould thereby be 
 '* more impaired than recovered : and law- 
 <l yers they mortally hate. Women who 
 " have newly lain in, wear only a loofe rai- 
 " ment, and next to none at all. Being ge- 
 <{ nerally well-fliaped, and not unhandfome, 
 " and of great modefty and fimplicity of 
 " manners, though they go with their legs 
 <c naked from the calves downward, they are 
 " neither fubjected to the jeers nor to thedif- 
 " guft of the men.* Neither is it thought 
 
 * { any 
 
 * In this laft fentence, I have departed from the tranf- 
 lation of Cunningham's Latin original given by the Author 
 of the Introduction prefixed, which not only contains bio- 
 graphical anecdotes of the Athor, and a view, in the true 
 fpirit of philofophical criticifm, of that publication, but 
 which is a very plcafmg, as well as profound dillertation on 
 the compofition and ufe of hiftory in general. The words in 
 the Latin original of Cunningham, of which copious fpeci- 
 mens are given in an Appendix, are, " Cum tptimte form*
 
 lc any extraordinary honour among them, 
 " that their virginity i not fufpec~bed when 
 " they marry. They reckon nothing more 
 <c fhameful than to refufe any thing to their 
 " chief.* Moil of them are tall, and pro- 
 duce 
 
 Jint plerumque neque. inventtfta:, fed probis moribus, prater 
 catera, fitras ad talos ~nud<g, nullo <viri neque verborum faf- 
 tidio capiuntur." This fentence has been rendered by 
 the tranflator thus : " They are generally well-fhaped, 
 and not unhandfome ; and, above all, of fuch modeft 
 behaviour, though they go with their legs naked, that they 
 are not apt to be deceived by the enticing words of men." 
 I fliould rather ftippofe, that there has been fome wrong read- 
 ing of the Latin MSS. than that this could be the meaning of 
 the author, as it does not feem to be logical and conclufive. 
 Having faid this, it is butjuftice toobferve at the fame time, 
 that in fo long a work, which, in order to defcribe fcenes, 
 modes of life, euftoms, ideas, and opinions, fo different from 
 thofe of the antient Romans, and unlike any thing they were 
 acquainted with, neceflarily called in the aid of the whole 
 compafs of latinity ; in the tranflation, I fay, of fuch a work, 
 it is not to be wondered at if we meet with a few flips. 
 The tranflation in queftion is, on the whole, faithful, nerv 
 vous, and perfpicuous. 
 
 * The juxta pofition of this fentence to that immediately 
 preceding it, reconciles the apparent inconfiftencies of mo- 
 
 defl
 
 <f duce tall children, not being accuftomed to 
 " hard labour or difcipline, and fclclom ufed 
 " to harm treatment, or any kind of fubjec- 
 " tion. The men live to a great age, unlefs 
 " they chance to be cut off abruptly by an 
 " halter. Being, in general, poorly provided 
 " for, they are apt to covet other men's 
 *' goods ; nor are they taught by any laws 
 " to diftinguifh with great accuracy, their 
 c< own property from that of other people's. 
 " They are not afhamed of the gallows : 
 
 nay, 
 
 deft behaviour, and the eafinefs with which bridegrooms take 
 the doubtful virginity of their brides. Though far from 
 being naturally immodeft, fuch is their veneration for their 
 chiefs, that they deem it an honour to be, in all things fub- 
 fervient to his will. It often happens accordingly, that a 
 young woman has borne a child to a laird, before me is 
 courted by her hufboTid ; and that child is brought up with 
 great tendernefs, and receives an equal portion with the 
 children of the marriage. Nor will this feem furprifing, when 
 we refleft that there is fomething perfectly analogous to it in 
 high life. A lady of fafhion is not fo much difhonoured, in 
 the common eftimation of the world, by the embraces of a 
 prince or king, as (he would be by an illicit connexion with 
 aa inferior or equal.
 
 ( 220 ) 
 
 " nay, they pay a religious refpect to for- 
 " tunate plunderers j but whence they deriv- 
 " ed fuch fentiments I know not. Similar 
 " ideas prevail among the Neapolitans. 
 " Merchants who know them well, will not 
 <{ bring any goods among them, without a 
 tf protection from their chief j to whom the 
 " common people adhere with the utmoil 
 <f fidelity, and by whofe right hand they are 
 <c wont to fwear. Their religion is taken 
 " partly from the Druids, partly from Pa- 
 " pifts, and partly from Proteftants. Nei- 
 f( ther do they pay any long or great regard 
 '? to borrowed rites j but carry up many fa- 
 " bulous ftories of their own to the higheft 
 < antiquity. They are much inclined to pre- 
 tc diclions and fuperftitious omens. In 
 " bearing witnefs, they are not at all moved 
 " by the fear of God 5 nor do they regard an 
 " oath as any thing more than mere words 
 " and ceremony. Neither do they give 
 t themfelves the lead trouble about the in- 
 cl fbtutions of religion, until they have firft 
 
 violated
 
 " violated it by fome outrage or blood. 
 " They are greatly addicted to lying. Even 
 <c in times of peace they live by rapine. 
 " They account it among the moft fcan- 
 " dalous crimes to defert their chief, and to 
 < alter their drefs and way of living: for 
 " they think that in drefs and antient cuf- 
 c< toms, there is fomething facred. In war, 
 " they excel on foot, but are little ufed to 
 " horfes, by rcafon of the fituation of their 
 " country, full of dreadful woods and moun- 
 " tains. Their arms are a fword, dag- 
 c< ger, and fhield ; and, fometimes, they 
 c< make ufe of piftols. In battle, the point 
 " to which they bend their utmoft efforts, 
 " and that which they are moft anxious to 
 " carry, is the enemy's baggage. If that 
 " once fall into their hands, disregarding all 
 " difcipline and oaths, and leaving their 
 " colours, home they run." 
 
 It is not my intention to disfigure this 
 picture, drawn from the life by fo great a 
 matter. But I cannot help obferving, that 
 
 in
 
 ( 222 ) 
 
 in this admirable fketch of the Scotch High- 
 landers, there is not the leaft mention of 
 their pailionate love and genius for mufic, 
 as well as the kindred {trains of moving, 
 though fimple poetiy. The remote High- 
 landers are, at this day, as fond of poetry and 
 mufic as the antient Arcadians, who, blefTed 
 with a fertile foil and genial climate, poured 
 forth, in natural and affecting airs, the warm- 
 eft emotions of the heart. The mufical and 
 poetical compofitions of the Highlanders 
 were feldom committed to writing, but 
 handed down, from generation to generation, 
 by oral tradition. The fubjects of thefe 
 were, for the rnoft part, love, war, and the 
 pleafures of the chace : and their general 
 tone or ftyle, was not fprightly and gay, but, 
 on the contrary, fad and tragical. The firft 
 efforts of the Mufes, in every country and 
 age, are employed on melancholy themes, as 
 being the moft ftrongly marked by the light 
 and {hade of profperous exchanged for ad- 
 verfe circumftances, and which take the 
 
 ftroiigeft
 
 ftrongeft hold of the heart. But the very 
 afpecT: of nature, in the Highlands of Scot- 
 land, is fad : and a conflict, feldom inter- 
 rupted with hoftile clans, or with a harfli 
 climate and penurious foil, deepened the 
 general gloom. Hence, although the little 
 wealth of the Highlands confifls in cattle, 
 rural fcenes are introduced in their poetry 
 but feldom. And, were one to form a judg- 
 ment concerning the employment of the; 
 Highlanders, even from performances un- 
 queflionably modern, he would conclude 
 that they were not fo much fliepherds as hun- 
 ters. Their com pofitions, whether ofmufic 
 or poetry, were the natural productions, and 
 perfectly fuited to the taile of a country, 
 where, within the memory of man, every 
 male, without exception, was trained to 
 arms : and where huibandry, and even paf- 
 turage, were followed no farther than necef- 
 fity required. It is not long fmce flieep and 
 goats, in the Highlands, were confidered as 
 below the care of a man, and reputed the 
 
 property
 
 property of the wife, in the fame manner as 
 geefe, turkies, and other poultry are in the 
 Low Countries, and in England. 
 
 That the mufic and poetry of any country 
 bears a near relation to its common purfuits, 
 to the great objects of its hopes and fears, is 
 illuftrated in a very {hiking manner by thofe 
 of the inhabitants of St. Kilda, vvhofe infig- 
 nificance and remote fituation fecure them 
 from invafion, as their poverty and primitive 
 equality protect them from angry feuds. 
 When the winter {lore of this little common- 
 wealth is fafely depofited in a houfe called 
 Tigh-a-barra, its whole members refort to 
 this general magazine, as being the moft 
 fpacious room in their dominions, where 
 they hold a folemn afTembly, and fmg one of 
 their bed airs to words importing, " What 
 < more would we have ? There is flore of 
 cc cuddies and fay tb, of peri cb and attachan t laid 
 " up for us in Tigh-a-barra." Then fol- 
 lows an enumeration of the other kinds of 
 fifties that are hung up around them, to 
 
 which,
 
 ( 225 ) 
 
 which, in the courfe of their Tinging and 
 dancing, they frequently point, with ex- 
 prcfiions of gratitude and joy. 
 
 The Reverend Mr. Macdonald, Minifter 
 
 of Kilmore in Argylefliire, on whofe tef- 
 
 _ timony thefe particulars are here related of 
 
 the St. KiUians, received from a friend in the 
 
 I lie of Skye, a St. Kilda elegy, the effufion of 
 a young woman who had lofl her hufband by 
 a fall from the rocks, when employed in 
 catching fowls. Of this elegy, found among 
 people in whofe veracity Mr. Macdonald 
 has entire confidence, he gives the following 
 tranflation. " In yonder Soa* left I the 
 {C youth whom I loved. But lately, he 
 " fkippcd and bounded from rock to rock. 
 " Dextrous was he in making every inftru- 
 
 II mcnt the farm required, diligent in bring- 
 " ing home my tender flock. You went, 
 " O my love ! upon yon hanging cliff, but 
 " fear meafured not thy fteps ! Thy foot 
 " only dipt you fell never more to rife ! 
 
 P Thy 
 
 * A fmall rocky ifland near St. Kilda.
 
 ( 226 ) 
 
 " Thy blood ftained yon (loping rock ; thy 
 " brains lay fcattered around ! All thy 
 " wounds gufhed at once. Floating on the 
 " furface df the deep, the cruel waves tore 
 " thee afunder. Thy mother came, her 
 " grey hairs uncovered with the kerch :* 
 " thy fifter came, we mourned together : 
 " thy brother came, he leflened not the cry 
 " of forrow. Gloomy and fad we all beheld 
 " thee from afar, O thou that waft the feven-- 
 " fold bleffing of thy friends ! the fhiny 
 <c lhonne\ of their fupport. Now, alas ! my 
 " fhare of the birds is heard fcreaming in t he 
 " clouds : my fhare of the eggs is already 
 <c feized on by the ftronger party. In yon- 
 " der Soa left I the youth whom I loved." 
 
 The 
 
 * A fpecies of kerchief worn by married women in the 
 Highlands and Weftern Iflands of Scotland. 
 
 f Lbonne, a rope of raw hides ufed in St. Kilda. It is 
 the moft ufeful part of furniture, and a young woman pof* 
 fefled of one is reckoned well portioned. In fearching for 
 fowls and eggs, a man or two take hold of it, and another is 
 let down into the cliffs by the other end.
 
 ( 227 ) 
 
 The Galic poetry now extant, was, no 
 doubt, cornpofed for the moft part by the 
 bards who were once entertained in the fa- 
 milies of lords and cjiieftains. There was 
 alio an order of ftrolling rhapfodifts, who 
 went about the country, reciting their per- 
 formances for a livelihood. 
 
 Throughout the whole of the Highlands 
 there are, at this day, various fongs fung by 
 the women to fuitable airs, or played on mu- 
 fical infuruments, not only on occafions of 
 merriment and diverfion, but alfo during 
 almoft every kind of work which employs 
 more than one perfon, fuch as milking cows, 
 watching the folds, fulling of cloth, grinding 
 of grain with the quern or hand-mill, hay- 
 making, and reaping of corn. Thefe fongs 
 and tunes re-animate, for a time, the droop- 
 ing labourer, and make him work with re- 
 doubled ardour. In travelling through the 
 Highlands, in the feafon of autumn, the 
 founds of little bands of mufic on every fide y 
 joined to a moft romantic fcenery, has a very 
 P 2 pleafing
 
 ( 228 ) 
 
 pleafmg effe6l on the mind of a ftranger. 
 There is undoubted evidence, that from the 
 1 2th to the 1 5th century, both inclufive, 
 the Scots not only ufed, but, like their 
 kindred Irifh, excelled in playing on the 
 harp : a fpecies of mufic, in all probabi- 
 lity of Druidical origin. But, beyond all 
 memory or tradition, the favourite inurn- 
 ment of the Scotch muficians has been 
 the bag-pipe, introduced into Scotland, at 
 a very early period, by the Norwegians. 
 The large bag-pipe is the inftrument of 
 the Highlanders for war, for marriage, for 
 funeral proceflions, and other great occa- 
 fions. They have alfo a fmaller kind, on 
 which dancing tunes are played. A certain 
 fpecies of this wind mufic, called plbracls* 
 rouzes the native Highlander in the fame 
 way that the found of the trumpet does the 
 war-horfe ; and even produces efFecls little 
 lefs marvellous than thofe recorded of the an- 
 tient mufic. At the battle of Quebec, in 
 April 1 76oj whilft the Britifh troops were re- 
 treating
 
 treating in great confufion, the General com- 
 plained to a field-officer of Frafer's regi- 
 ment, of the bad behaviour of his corps. 
 " Sir," anfwcred he with fome warmth, 
 <c you did very wrong in forbidding the 
 <c pipes to play this morning : nothing en- 
 ct courages Highlanders fo much in a day of 
 <c action. Nay, even now they would be of 
 " ufe." " Let them blow like the devil, 
 x< then, "replied the General, " if it will bring 
 " back the men." The pipes were ordered 
 to play a favourite martial air. The High- 
 landers, the moment they heard the mufic, 
 returned and formed with alacrity in the 
 rear. In the late war in India, Sir Eyre 
 Coote, after the battle of Porto Nuovo, be- 
 ing aware of the ftrong attachment of the 
 Highlanders to their antient mufic, exprefTed 
 his applaufe of their behaviour on that day, 
 by giving them fifty pounds to buy a pah: of 
 bagpipes. * 
 
 Having thus taken the liberty to fupply 
 
 what fcemed deficient in the account that is 
 
 P 3 given 
 
 See MEMOI RS of the late War in Afia.
 
 ( 230 ) 
 
 given of the Scotch Highlanders by the very 
 learned and ingenious Cunningham, who 
 knew them well, and was capable of contem- 
 plating them under a vail variety of views, 
 it will be proper alfo to advert to the change 
 which the operation of government has pro- 
 duced in the character of the Highlanders, 
 fince the period when they were defcribed by 
 that celebrated author. 
 
 So quick and powerful is the influence of 
 moral caufes in the formation of the charac- 
 ters of nations and men, that the Highlanders 
 have actually undergone greater alteration in 
 the courfe of the prefent century, than for a 
 thoufand years before. Freedom and equal 
 laws, by encouraging induftry, fecuring pro- 
 .perty, and fubftituting independent fenti- 
 ments and views in the room of an obfequi- 
 ous devotion to feudal chiefs, have redeemed 
 the character of the Highlanders from thofc 
 imputations which were common to them 
 with all nations in a fimilar political fitu- 
 ation j while what is excellent in their cha- 
 racter,
 
 rafter, the fenfibility of their nature, the 
 hardinels of their conftitutions, their war- 
 like difpofition, and their generous hofpita- 
 lity to Grangers, remain undiminimed. And, 
 though emancipated now from the feudal 
 yoke, they flill fliew a voluntary reverence to 
 their chiefs, as well as affe6lion to thofb of 
 their own tribe and kindred : qualities which 
 are not only very amiable and engaging in 
 themielves, but which are connected with 
 that chara<5ter of alacrity and inviolable fide- 
 lity and refolution which their exertions in 
 the aeld havejuftly obtained in the world. 
 
 By the feudal fyitem, all who held in capite, 
 of the crown, both in England and Scotland, 
 and, no doubt, in other countries, were 
 obliged to give perfonal attendance in par- 
 liament : and tliofe free tenants,* compre- 
 hended not only the great nobles, but the 
 lefler barons, among whom the king's bur- 
 gefles, it is probable, were originally includ- 
 d. The great barons, or aristocracy, in 
 P 4 the 
 
 * Liberi tenenttt.
 
 the natural courfe of things, acquired in 
 both the Britifh kingdoms, a decided fupe- 
 riority in the public councils. The lefler 
 barons and burgefTes, uneafy in their fitu- 
 ations, as well as unable to bear the expence 
 of repeated attendance, began toabfent them- 
 felves from parliament. In both Scotland and 
 England, the fovereign, that he might be en- 
 abled to counter- balance the over-bearing in- 
 fluence of the arifcocracy, by the attendance of 
 at leail a certain portion of the lefler barons 
 and royal burgefles, who in their collective 
 capacity, were free tenants, exempted them 
 from the obligation of perfonal attendance, 
 upon condition of their fendirjg reprefen- 
 tatives to parliament. That wealth which 
 naturally fprung from commerce and induf- 
 try/the circumftance of the parliament's be- 
 ing divided into two houfcs, and that con- 
 troul over the public purfe which, in procefs 
 of time, refulted from both, maintained and 
 increafed the importance of the great body 
 of freeholders in England : but in Scotland, 
 
 where
 
 ( 233 ) 
 
 where the lefTcr barons and burgefTes, with 
 the great mafs of the people, remained poor 
 pendent, and the reprefentatives of the 
 fli ires and burghs fat in the fame aflembly 
 with the nobles and the clergy,* the arifto- 
 cracy preferved their influence over the pro- 
 ceedings of parliament, and, in fact, afiumed 
 the government of the kingdom. The great 
 baron who pofTeiTed his caftle, and an exten- 
 five heritable jurifdiction, afiumed the pri- 
 vilege of redrefling every injury that was 
 done to him, whether real or imaginary, and 
 was the arbiter of right and wrong among 
 his people j while the letter proprietors, or 
 yeomanry of the country were fubjecled to 
 the will of tyrants. The amount of pro- 
 perty which, in progrefs of time, became rc- 
 quifite in parliamentary election and repre- 
 fentation, excluded the great body of propri- 
 etors 
 
 * In Scotland, the parliaments were ambulatory with the 
 king, and generally held within the walls of one of his for- 
 treilcs. The parliament was very often held in Sjirling- 
 Caftfc.
 
 (234 ) 
 
 etors from that right, and created a fecon* 
 dary order of ariftocratical chiefs, who, to 
 the full extent of their power, imitated the 
 tyranny of the nobles, or hereditary peers of 
 parliament. The genius of Scotland became 
 ariftocratical throughout. The commiffioiiT 
 ers to parliament from the burghs royal 
 were elected by the town-councils of thofe 
 burghs, inftead of the citizens at large. The 
 members of thofe councils, too, like fo many 
 Dutch burgomafters, chcfe, and flill chufe, 
 their fucceffors in office : nor, according to 
 a late decifion of the court of fefiion, ajudi- 
 catory conflituted after the model of the par- 
 liaments of France, and the higheft in Scot- 
 land, is there any controul on the manage- 
 ment of thofe felf-created juntos, who, at the 
 fame time that they impofe what contribu- 
 tions they pleafe, convert, or may convert, a 
 public good into a private property. 
 
 About the time of the Revolution, the ad- 
 vent, and eftablifhment of King William and 
 Queen Mary on the throne, firft of England,
 
 C 2 35 ) 
 
 and afterwards of Scotland, diffufed through-, 
 out the whole of Great Britain a lively fenfe 
 of the rights of mankind : and Scotland in 
 particular, as fire is inflamed hy the nitrous 
 influence of froft, glowed with the genuine 
 entfaufiafm of freedom. Mr. Fletcher of 
 Saltoun, and other patriots whofe notions of 
 liberty were drawn from the fources of Greece 
 and Rome, and confirmed by the aufpices 
 of the times, contended for a degree of liberty 
 unknown even to the Englifh constitution. 
 This fpirit of the nation, aclive, enterprizing, 
 and bold, led the people of Scotland to at- 
 tempt the eftablifhment of a commercial co- 
 lony on the Iflhmus of Darien, the happieft 
 fituation that could be imagined for the 
 commerce of the world : and on this bot- 
 tom, a great part of the v/ealth of the na- 
 tion was embarked. The check which this 
 magnificent, and by no means chimerical 
 fcheme, received from the jealoufies of the 
 fiftcr kingdom, and the remonftrances of 
 Spain, damped the ardent fpirit of the Scot- 
 
 tifh
 
 ( 236 ) 
 
 tifh nation excefiively, and, by a reflux not 
 unnatural in the humours of men, or of 
 nations, threw them back into a languor 
 and inoccupation, which eafily fubmitted to 
 that ariftocratical authority and influence, to 
 which Scotland had always been accuftom- 
 ed, and from which it never recovered until 
 the abolition of thofe heritable jurifdictions, 
 in which thefe were founded. The check 
 which the Scots received in the affair of Da- 
 rien, formed, perhaps, one link in that chain 
 of events which led to the Union. Had the 
 colony that was attempted at the lilhmus of 
 Panama fucceeded, the fpirit of the Scottifli 
 nation would have been too high and proud 
 to have liilened to any reafonable terms of 
 fubmitting to the fame government with 
 England. 
 
 It is remarkable, that it was by means of 
 the leading men of the ariftocracy, that the 
 Union was promoted and carried into effect ; 
 although that order of men were to facrifice 
 to that meafure, a great deal of their here- 
 ditary
 
 ( 2 37 ) 
 
 ditary honours and confequence in their na- 
 tive country: whereas the tradefmen, and 
 the loweft of the people, who certainly could 
 not be any lofers by fharing in the fortunes 
 of the Englifh, but might probably be much 
 bettered by the change, were the firft, when 
 the articles of Union came to be debated in 
 the Scotch parliament, who made a brifk 
 ftand for the name of liberty and fovereign 
 power. For the very name and antiquity of 
 the kingdom was of great weight with the 
 people : though what remained of it, after 
 the removal of King James VI. into Eng- 
 land, was no more than a vain image or fh?.- 
 dovv of fovereign ty : fince the government, 
 from that time, was committed to the hands 
 of a few men, who not only preferred, for 
 the moft part, their private interefts to thole 
 of the public, but who often acled according 
 to the orders they received from ftrangers. 
 But, if the colony of Darien had fucceeded, 
 the republican and popular fpirit would have 
 carried all before it. 
 
 The
 
 ( 238 ) 
 
 The opponents of the court, in the de- 
 bates on the Union, infifled, that parliament 
 had no authority to determine concerning the 
 alienation of the kingdom, fmce power was 
 not delegated to them from the free-holders, 
 or tenants in capite, for that purpofe. The 
 cornmifiioners fent into England, they al- 
 ledged, were neither proper judges of this 
 matter, nor the parliament itfelf veiled with 
 competent authority to decide a matter of 
 fo great importance ; but that there was a 
 right inherent in a free people, to put a flop 
 to the paffing of any law, as there waSj for- 
 merly, in the tribunes of the Roman people. 
 A fimilar doclrine prevails, and is eflablifhed 
 into a firm and uncontroverted maxim, in 
 the prefbyterian government of the church 
 of Scotland, in which it is held, that it is 
 not in the power of the general afTembly, to 
 fubvert or change any of the effential ufages 
 or laws in the ecclefiaflicalconflitution, with- 
 out the confent of two-thirds at leafl, of the 
 fynods and prefbyteries. 
 
 The
 
 239 
 
 The court party, on the other hand, who 
 were friends to the Union, faid, that the fu- 
 preme authority of the nation was undoubt- 
 edly veiled in the parliament ; and that* 
 " when an election was once made, neither 
 " the tenants of the crown, or thofe who 
 <c hold of the crown in chief, nor the magi- 
 " ftrates of the cities, had any more right 
 " either to put a negative on the paflingof any" 
 " law, or to give a vote ; but that the people 
 " had delegated all their authority to thofe 
 f whom they had elected to reprefent them 
 " in parliament." 
 
 When this queftion was carried in favour 
 of the courtiers, in parliament, the people 
 out of doors, were every where thrown into 
 diforder and tumult. The Duke of Queen f- 
 berry, who was the lord commiflioner, or lord 
 lieutenant, adjourned the houfe till the next 
 day, took his coach, and was followed with 
 many reproaches by the people, who could 
 hardly forbear to lay violent hands on him. 
 During the whole of that night, tumults 
 
 were
 
 were kept up in Edinburgh. The mob af- 
 faulted and fearched.thehoufe of Sir Patrick 
 Johnftone, theprovoflof that city: whom, 
 if they had found him, they would have 
 treated with great outrage, for no other rea- 
 fon, than that he was faid to have favoured 
 the vote in parliament for the Union. This 
 fpirit of refinance fpread rapidly over the 
 whole country. Levies of armed men were 
 made by feveral difcontented chiefs, who 
 made no fcruple of declaring their fentiments, 
 that the only way by which Scotchmen could 
 now prevent .the difgrace and ruin of their 
 country, was, to march under arms to Edin- 
 burgh, and over-awe the decifions of par- 
 liament. The people of Scotland entered 
 readily into thofe ideas and views : but the 
 invafion of Edinburgh and the parliament 
 was prevented by means partly accidental, 
 and partly the refult of profound contriv- 
 ance. In the firft place, the defigns of the 
 opponents of the Union were greatly retard- 
 ed by the feafon of the year, and by conti- 
 nual
 
 ( 24' ) 
 
 nual and heavy rains. In the fecond place, 
 an artificial channel was formed for receiv- 
 ing the fury of the people, by which it was, 
 with great addrefs, diverted from its object. 
 The Duke of Queenfberry fecretly employed 
 Major Cunningham, an officer of very popu- 
 lar reputation, to raifc the people in the wef- 
 tern parts of Scotland, who, to the common 
 dread of taxes, and hatred of the Englifh, 
 added an extraordinary antipathy to bifhops, 
 and zeal for the fafety of the Prefbyterian 
 religion. The eyes of all men were natu- 
 rally directed to the levies on foot in Air- 
 fhire. and other counties adjacent : and here 
 the genius of Scotland feemed to make the 
 lafl ftand for retaining, within the bounds 
 of that kingdom, the name, at lead, and the 
 infignia of fovereignty. But when the day 
 came for the armed people to march to Edin- 
 burgh, where many of their heads had al- 
 ready aficmbled, their commander, with the 
 concurrence and co-operation of different 
 men of confequence who acted in concert 
 
 with
 
 ( 242 ) 
 
 with the minifter for Scotland, found means-, 
 on various pretences, to keep them back. 
 
 The Union was agreed to, and ratified by 
 both nations. But this fortunate event, 
 which prevented that general excitement 
 which had been oecafioned by the Revolu- 
 tion, from relapfmg into the languor of ty- 
 ranny, did not transfufe the free fpirit of 
 England into Scotland, at once. The Scot- 
 tifh barons ftill retained their hereditary ju- 
 rifdiclions undiminifned, and feveral good 
 families held their eftates in vafTalage of feu- 
 dal chiefs . For example, the Macpherfons 
 and Macmtofhes were the vaflals of the Duke 
 of Gordon j and Struan Robertfon of the> 
 Duke of Atholl. 
 
 The private jurifdictions being referved by 
 the treaty of Union, it was not until the 
 year 1747, that they were re-affumed by the 
 crown, and the people of Scotland made par- 
 takers of Englifn freedom. In this great 
 event, we have a moil remarkable proof and 
 example of that principle of correction and 
 
 amend-
 
 ( 243 ) 
 
 amendment, which is inherent in political 
 grievances ; and that abufes, carried to ex- 
 tremities, lead to reformation. It was their 
 hereditary jurifdictions that enabled the heads 
 of certain Scottiih clans, in 1715 and 1745, 
 to make thofe defperate attempts which fig- 
 nalized, at once, the fubje6lion and the mar- 
 tial ardour of the poor Highlanders, in fa- 
 vour of the Houfe of Stuart. Their dan- 
 gerous efFecls became now apparent to all 
 who were interefled in the fafety of the king- 
 dom. As they were accounted private pro- 
 perty, it was obferved, that their holders 
 might part with them for an equivalent. 
 They were, accordingly, re- annexed to the 
 crown: and 150,000!. bought back to the 
 nation, that juftice and freedom, which had 
 patted away from it. 
 
 But this wife and humane political mea- 
 fure, great as the dangers which threatened 
 the ftate from the heritable jurifdidtions 
 were, would not, perhaps, have been adopted, 
 or even thought of, had not the adminiilra- 
 Qji tion
 
 ( 244 ) 
 
 tion of the Britifh affairs been vefled, at that 
 period, in men who entertained a juft reve- 
 rence for the rights of m ankind . The prince 
 that filled the throne had been taught, from 
 his earliefV years, to cleteft political tyranny, 
 and the noble families who had diftinguifhed 
 their attachment to the principles of the Re- 
 volution, and to the Hanoverian SuccefTion, 
 and by whofe means the Britifh nation pre- 
 ferved, or regained their freedom, enjoyed his 
 confidence and his favour. In fuch aufpi- 
 cious circumfbances, the oppofition that was 
 made to the refumption of the heritable ju- 
 rifdictions, yielded to the recollection of re- 
 cent danger, and to the genuine voice of 
 patriotifm, and a love of freedom. Had no 
 rebellion taken place m Scotland, and our po- 
 litical conftitution advanced another ftage in 
 that progrefs towards abfolute monarchy, 
 which a great philofopher, though not a 
 great friend to freedom, has both predicted 
 and declared to be its eafieil death : in this 
 cafe, it is not probable that the people of 
 
 Scotland
 
 ( 245 ) 
 
 Scotland would have been admitted to a par- 
 ticipation of thofe privileges which, fortu- 
 nately for the Britifh empire, they now en- 
 joy. They would have been inftruments in 
 the hands of haughty and tyrannical chiefs, 
 as thefe again, might have been, in thofe of 
 an artful and unprincipled miniiler. 
 
 During the interval between the Union 
 and the commencement of the war that was 
 terminated by the peace of Paris, in 1763, 
 Scotland remained in a (late of inactivity 
 and languor : and, as an emphatic proof 
 that this was really the cafe, it is remarked, 
 that there is fcarcely one good houfe to be 
 found in that country, which was not built 
 either before the firft, or fmce the laft of 
 thefe events. The abolition of heritable ju- 
 rifdictions, the riling fpirit of liberty, that 
 general energy which was the natural remit 
 of a fuccefsful and glorious weir, in which 
 the Scots, and particularly the Highlanders, 
 had their full fhare, produced in that coun- 
 try as rapid a change, in the fpace of even
 
 ( 246 ) 
 
 ten years, as is to be found in the hiftory of 
 any nation. A fpirit of adventure and ex- 
 ertion manifefted itfelf, not only in arms, 
 but in arts of every kind, both mechanical 
 and liberal. The extreme ardour of lite- 
 rature and fcience which takes place in Scot- 
 land, has been noticed, and very happily ex- 
 prefled by the learned and eloquent editor of 
 Bellendenus, a native of that country : Scotia 
 jam omnis inphikfophia excolendafervet, ut it a 
 dicam, ac tumultuatur . 
 
 Let us now defcend from Stirling, a fit 
 centre for taking a furvey of Scotland, and 
 purfue our journey to Carron, by Bannock- 
 burn, where that grand and decifive battle 
 was fought which compleated, in 1314, the 
 recovery of Scotland from the arms of Eng- 
 land, 
 
 Edward II. of England,' purfuing the am- 
 bitious defign of his immediate predeceflbr 
 cni the Englifh throne, aflembled forces from 
 all quarters, with a view of effecting, at one 
 
 blow.
 
 ( 247 ) 
 
 blow, the reduction of Scotland. " He 
 <c fummoned," fays Hume, " the moft war- 
 " like of his vafials from Gafcony : he inlifted 
 <f troops from Flanders and other foreign 
 ** countries : he invited over great numbers 
 <l of the diforderly Irifli as to a certain. prey : 
 <c he joined to them a body rf tne Wellh, 
 * c who were actuated by like motives : and 
 " aflembling the whole military force of 
 " England, he marched to the frontiers with 
 <f an army, which, according to the Scotch 
 " writers, amounted to an hundred thoufand 
 " men, but which was probably much infe- 
 " rior to that number. 
 
 " The army, collected by Robert, exceed- 
 " ed not thirty thoufand combatants ; but 
 " being compofed of men, who had diftin- 
 " guifhed themfelves by many acts of valour, 
 " who were rendered defperate by their fitu- 
 " ation, and who were enured to all the va- 
 " rieties of fortune, they might juftly, under 
 u fuch a leader, be deemed formidable to the 
 
 " moll
 
 ( 248 ) 
 
 " moft numerous and beft appointed armies. 
 " The Caftle of Stirling, which, with Eer- 
 " wic, was the only fortrefs in Scotland, 
 " remained in the hands of the Englifh, had 
 " long been beficged by Edward Bruce : Phi- 
 " lip de Mowbray, the governor, after an 
 " obftinate defence, was at lail obliged to 
 " capitulate, and to promife, that, if, b. 
 c< a certain day, which was now approach-* 
 * c ing, he was not relieved, he fhould open 
 " his gates to the enemy.* Robert, there- 
 cc fore, fenfible that here was the ground on 
 " which he muft expecl the Englifn, chofe 
 " the field of battle with all the (kill and 
 <f prudence imaginable, and made the necef- 
 " fary preparations for their reception. He 
 ct poflecl himfelf at Bannockburn, about two 
 " miles from Stirling j where he had a hill 
 " on his right flank, and a morafs on his 
 * c left : and, not content with having taken 
 ^ thefe precautions to prevent his being fur- 
 
 *' rounded 
 
 * Rymer, vol. iii. 481.
 
 ( 249 ) 
 
 " roundal by the more numerous army of 
 {C the Englifh ; he forefaw the fupcrior 
 tf flrength of the enemy in cavalry, and made 
 " provifion againft it. 
 
 {< Having a rivulet in front, he command- 
 " ed deep pits to be dug along its banks, 
 " and fharp flakes to be planted in them; 
 <c and he ordered the whole to be carefully 
 " covered over with turf.* The Engliih ar- 
 " rived in fight on the evening, and a bloody 
 " conflict immediately enflied between two 
 " bodies of caval Ure Robert, who 
 
 :s at tlie head of the Scots, engaged in 
 <c fingle combat with Henry de Bohun, a 
 " gentleman of the family of Hereford ; and 
 " at one Mroke cleft his adverfary to the chin 
 tc with a battle axe, in fight of the two armies, 
 " The Englifli horfe fied with precipitation 
 <c to their main body. 
 
 " The Scots, encouraged by this favour- 
 f c able event, and glorying in the valour of 
 
 their 
 
 * T. de la More, p. 594.
 
 ( 250 ) 
 
 " their prince, prognofticated a happy hTue 
 <f to the combat on the enfuing day : the 
 " Englifh, confident in their numbers, and 
 ft elated with paft fuccefTes, longed for an 
 <c opportunity of revenge : and the night, 
 " though extremely fhort in that feafon and 
 " in that climate, appeared tedious to the im- 
 " patience of the feveral combatants. 
 
 " Early in the morning, Edward drew out 
 " his army, and advanced towards the Scots. 
 cc The Earl of Glocefter, his nephew, who 
 " commanded the left wing of the cavalry, 
 " impelled by the ardour of youth, ruilied 
 " on to attack without precaution, and fell 
 " among the covered pits, which had been 
 " prepared by Bruce for the reception of the 
 " enemy. This body of horfe was difor- 
 " dered : Glocefter himfelf was overthrown 
 " and {lain : Sir James Douglas, who com- 
 " manded the Scottifh cavalry, gave the ene- 
 <c my no leifure to rally, but puihed them off 
 ?* the field with confiderabk lofs, and pur- 
 
 fued
 
 ( 25' ) 
 
 '* fued them in fight cf their whole line of 
 " infantry. While the Englifh army were 
 <e alarmed with this unfortunate beginning 
 " of the action, which commonly proves de- 
 " cifive, they obferved an army on the 
 " heights towards the left, which feemed to 
 " be marching leifurely in order to furround 
 " them ; and they were diftracled by their 
 <' multiplied fears. This was a number of 
 " waggoners and fumpter boys, whom Ro- 
 " bert had collected ; and having fupplied 
 " them with military flandards, gave them 
 " the appearance at a cliftance of a formi- 
 " dable body. 
 
 " The ftratagem took efFecl : a panic feiz- 
 " ed the Englifn : they threw down their 
 " arms and fled : they were purfued with 
 " great (laughter, for the fpace of eighty 
 " miles, till they reached Berwic : and the 
 " Scots, befides an inerKmable booty, took 
 " many perfons of quality prifoners, and 
 " above 400 gentlemen, whom Robert treat- 
 ed
 
 * c ed with great humanity, and whofe ran- 
 " fom was a new acceffion of wealth to the 
 " victorious army. The King himfelf nar^ 
 ct rowly efcaped by taking ihelter in Dunbar, 
 " whole gates were opened to him by the 
 " Earl of March ; and he thence pafled by 
 " fea to Berwic." 
 
 Thurfday , July 2 3 . Arrive at Carron, where 
 the Carron Company have a very large fount 
 dery for calling all forts of implements, from 
 42 pounders to the mod trifling article for 
 domeftic ufe ; the coal, of which they ufe 
 100 tons per diem, is all charred before it 
 can be applied to the purpofe of melting 
 iron, as it creates a much ftronger heat in 
 that flate, than when the fulphur is in it. 
 The bellows made ufe of are amazingly large, 
 and worked by water. Four cylinders of 
 three feet diameter, are wrought by one 
 wheel, and the united wind created by this 
 force pafTes through a tube of about a foot 
 diameter, which is conveyed to the mouth of 
 
 the
 
 the furnace. The tube is there reduced to 
 the fize of an inch and an half. It is natu- 
 ral to fuppofe, that fuch a quantity of air, 
 fo much compixfied, muft act with great vi- 
 olence : which indeed it does, and makes 
 more noife than the roaring of the moft vi- 
 olent gale of wind I ever heard. Without 
 this very forcible engine, they could not ob- 
 tain heat enough to convert the iron into a 
 liquid mafs. They have here four of thofe 
 blafts. They have alfo the krgefl pump, for 
 raifing water in dry weather, when they are 
 not fufficiently fupplied otherwife, that I ever 
 faw. It is worked by four piflons, each of 
 which is thirty inches diameter, and raifes- 
 four tons of water at each ftroke, which 
 makes about 100 tons of water in a minute* 
 This pump is worked by fleam. 
 
 They have adopted here a new method of bo- 
 ring guns, which is done by a horizontal, in- 
 ftead of a perpendic ular motion, and by moving 
 the gun inflead of the initrument : but they 
 would not let us examine it narrowly. Du- 
 ring
 
 ( 2 54 ) 
 
 ting the war, 1200 people were employed 
 here : but, fmce the peace, until lately, they 
 have had but little bufmefs. I am happy to 
 find they have now fome large orders from 
 Ruffia and Germany for great guns, and 
 have occafion to employ 1000 men. To a 
 perfon who has not been accultomed to fights 
 of this fort, the place would appear like Pan- 
 demonium ; for liquid iron is running into 
 the moulds of fand in all directions ; and 
 the men, who look like devils, are driving it 
 about in iron wheel-barrows, through every 
 part of the foundery. At night the whole 
 place appears in a blaze, and by the affiftance 
 of a large piece of water, which makes a fine 
 reflection, forms an exhibition that amply re- 
 wards the pains of going to fee it. 
 
 Near Carron the navigable canal fromGlaf-*. 
 gow communicates with the fea. This canal 
 is forty miles long, and near fifty feet broad, 
 which is a very unneceflary width, as boats of 
 fifty tons are quite large enough for carrying 
 on commerce by canals, and will anfwer every 
 
 pur-
 
 ( 255 
 
 purpofe better than larger veflels. The Duke 
 of Bridgewater, who was the firft projector 
 of canals in this country, feems to have been 
 happy enough to have attained perfection in 
 this mode of navigation. On the Glafgow 
 canal are a great number of locks, which 
 mufl have added greatly to the expence. I 
 think that on that part of the canal which 
 is next to Carron there are fixteen of them 
 in the courfe of two miles. About a mile 
 and a half above Carron, the canal is car- 
 ried upon a large bridge over the road. 
 Veflels come from Glafgow to the fea on this 
 canal, in ten hours. From the accounts I 
 received at Glafgow, as well as at Carron, I 
 was forry to find the trade on the canal will 
 not anfwer the expence : but I have been 
 lately informed, that it now pays five per 
 cent, to the proprietors. 
 
 Leave Carron, and go through Falkirk, 
 (near which the battle was fought) to Lin- 
 lithgow ; a number of gentlemen's feats on, 
 each fide of the road. The land well culti- 
 vated and planted : have a fine view of the 
 
 Carfe
 
 ( 256 ) 
 
 Carfe of Falkirk, which is richly covered 
 with corn. 
 
 Dine at Linlithgow, and vifit the old 
 palace, which is now a ruin. At the time of 
 the rebellion in 1745, part of it was habit- 
 able, but in 1 746 it was entirely deftroyed 
 by the king's army. This caftle is famous 
 for having given birth to Mary Queen of 
 Scots, and the walls of the room are ftill re- 
 maining, in which {he was born, The caf- 
 tle is fituated on an eminence, almoft fur- 
 rounded by a fmall lake, and commands fe- 
 veral beautiful profpecls. Linlithgow is a 
 large town, but the houfes in it are not well 
 built. From Linlithgow to Edinburgh, the 
 country is very well cultivated, efpecially as 
 you draw near to that city, and the profpeCl 
 of the Firth of Forth, and the towns to the . 
 northward of it, very beautiful. 
 
 In the evening get to Edinburgh . The cattle, 
 which is the mofl ftriking object in that antient 
 metropolis, is built on a very high rock, which 
 is acceJdible only on one fide, where there is 
 
 a draw-
 
 bridge. Although it was confidered, before 
 the invention of gun-powder, as impreg- 
 nable, it is now incapable of any long de- 
 fence. It appears formidable from its com- 
 manding fituation : but it could not ftand a 
 regular fiege even for a week. Upon the 
 very top of the rock there is a large fquare^ 
 confiding of buildings partly new and partly 
 antient. In the latter, they ftill mew the 
 room where the unfortunate Mary was de- 
 livered of James I, A door too is pointed 
 out to the ftranger, carefully fecured by bolts 
 and bars. The room into which this leads 
 is faid to contain the regalia of Scotland.. 
 On this fubject, however, many are fcep- 
 tical, as there is not any tradition of thofe 
 enfigns of power having been ever fcen by 
 any perfon fmce the Union. 
 
 The new buildings confiil of barracks and 
 an armoury, as the caftle of Edinburgh is, 
 in reality, a fhice d'armes for military (lores 
 and accoutrements, to be in readinefs on 
 any emergency. The fquare ferves as a pa- 
 ll rade
 
 ( 258 ) 
 
 rade for the garrifon, which generally ccft- 
 fiflsof five or fix companies , fometimes more, 
 befides a company of invalids. The efla- 
 blifhment here is as follows : a governor, a 
 deputy-governor, a fort major, a ftore keep- 
 er, a chaplain, a matter gunner, and three or 
 four quarter gunners, 
 
 On a lower part of the rock towards the 
 north a handfome building is creeled. The 
 centre is the governor's houfe: and the two 
 wings are occupied by the governor and the 
 fort major. From this rock runs a fleep 
 ridge, on the eaft fide, about three quarters of 
 a mile long. On this ridge, the old city of 
 Edinburgh flands, forming a very wide 
 flreet from the caflle to the bottom of the 
 ridge, where it is terminated by Holyrood- 
 houfe. On each fide of this flreet the decli- 
 vity is fo fleep, that in moft places you are 
 obliged to defcend by fleps. The houfes being 
 built on each fide of this ridge, accounts for 
 their being fo very high, from ten to fourteen 
 (lories. Choice would never have induced any 
 
 man
 
 ( 259 ) 
 
 man to build a houfe on this fpot, or live 
 fourteen flories from the ground. The 
 obvious reafon of chufing fo commodious a 
 fituation, was the necefllty of being under 
 cover of the guns of the caftle. 
 
 In Scotland, whereno marks of regular go- 
 vernment, and very few of arts and commerce 
 are to be traced beyond the eleventh century, 
 and where great ferocity of manners prevail- 
 ed in much later periods, it is probable that 
 towns, and even villages were formed, for the 
 moil part, by a refort of the lower clafs of 
 inhabitants to that flielter from injury and 
 oppreffion which was afforded by the caftles 
 of the king and of the barons. The tenants, 
 and retainers of powerful chiefs, in all times 
 of turbulence and danger, would naturally 
 take refuge under the wings of ihofe ftrong 
 holds that were the maniions of the baron to 
 whom they belonged. The principal vaf- 
 fals, we may fuppofe, of the feudal chief 
 would, in fu'ch times, find entertainment 
 within the walls of the cattle ; while others, 
 R2 f
 
 ( 260 ) 
 
 of inferior ftation, would be fain to affembte 
 with their families and their fubftance, as 
 near to them as poflible. The domains, or 
 part of the domains of the caftles would na- 
 turally, in fuch circumflances, be parcelled 
 out to the people. Temporary huts would 
 be improved into houfes; houfes into vil- 
 lages; and, in the progrefs of population 
 arid arts, villages into towns.- Our oldeft 
 boroughs, agreeably to thefe obfervations, 
 are fituated near places of ftrength, and the 
 manfiona of the great. They who took up 
 their refidence in fuch places, found it ne* 
 ceflary for their farther fecurity, to furround 
 them with walls or other fences. Hence the 
 towns or villages were termed burgs, and 
 their inhabitants, burgenfes, long before the 
 practice of incorporating them into commu- 
 nities by charter was introduced, either in 
 this ifland, or on the continent of Europe. 
 
 Burghers were of two forts : inhabitants of 
 burgs within the domains of fovereigns ; and 
 inhabitants of burgs within the territories of 
 
 powerful
 
 ( 26. ) 
 
 powerful barons and ecclefiaftics. Each 
 burgefs paid a fixed fum yearly to the king, 
 or to the lord paramount, in whofe town he 
 lived or had his burgagium. Certain cuf- 
 toms were alfo exacted from the burgefTes by 
 the fuperior, whether the king or a fubject, 
 on the fale of different commodities. In 
 return for thefe exactions, the burgefles were 
 indulged from time to time with fundry pri- 
 vileges, which placed them in a very different 
 condition from the inhabitants of the coun- 
 try, or ruftici, whofe occupations were en- 
 tirely confined to agriculture or the breed of 
 cattle j and who, confined to the foil which 
 they were doomed to cultivate, were not al- 
 lowed to apply themfelves to any kind of 
 commerce or mechanical .employment. And, 
 for encouragement of .the country-people to 
 refort to the towns, it became a law in 
 Scotland and England, as well as in other 
 parts of Europe, that if the predial fa-ve, or 
 if that fhould be thought too flrong a term, 
 o predial labourer of any earl or baron, or 
 
 other
 
 ( 262 ) 
 
 other proprietor, fhoukl purchafe a burgagium 
 in any burg, even to the extent of only one 
 rood, and remain therein for the fpace of a 
 year and a day without being challenged by his 
 lord, he fhould thenceforth be free j and en- 
 joy all the rights and immunities of a burgefs, 
 provided that he did not belong to the king. 
 All thefe privileges, however, were found 
 infufficientevento protect the king's burgefles 
 againft the tyranny and oppreflion of the 
 great lords in their neighbourhood. A new 
 policy was therefore introduced, of forming 
 them into communities by royal charters, 
 granting them a certain domain fubjecl to a 
 yearly quit-rent, and appointing officers to 
 be chofen by themfelves, for managing their 
 common affairs, and fettling their private 
 difputes. This practice appears to have been 
 introduced firft in France -, and, as it was a very 
 natural expedient in itfelf, in all kingdoms 
 where the feudal fyftem was eftablifhed, fo it 
 was quickly diffufed by a principle of imita- 
 tion throughout other European countries. 
 
 On
 
 On each fide of the ridge 'that forms the 
 bafe of the Scotch metropolis is a very deep 
 valley. The northern one was once filled 
 with water, but it is now drained off, and a 
 bridge of three arches built over the dry 
 land, the centre arch 95 feet high. This 
 forms a communication with the North or 
 New Town, in which is a fpacious fquare 
 called St. Andrew's. Theftreets adjacent are 
 very wide and handfome : many of the 
 houfes are built of free ftone, ami are truly 
 magnificent. At the north end of this bridge 
 is a very elegant building, which is in- 
 tended for a regifter-office, and at the weft 
 end of the New Town, a ball-room, &c. is 
 erecting, which will, perhaps, furpafs in ele- 
 gant magnificence, any one in Britain. The 
 houfes on the north fide of the New Town. 
 command a beautiful view of the Firth, and 
 the town of Leith. On the fouth fide of the 
 cattle, are feveral public buildings. The 
 college, in which are about one thoufand 
 Undents, two hofpitals, which are large and 
 R 4 well
 
 well endowed, a work-houfe, and a houfe for 
 lunatics. In this part of the city is a hand- 
 fome fquare called George's. We were prefent 
 at the laying the firft ftone of a new bridge 
 which is to form a communication from 
 the fouth to the centre part of the city, on a 
 ftrait line with the bridge which is already 
 built to the north. This is not only highly 
 conducive to convenience, but will have a 
 very handfome appearance. To enumerate 
 the other public buildings which are intend- 
 ed to be erecied in Edinburgh, would afto- 
 jii.li any perfon who confiders that Edin- 
 burgh is not a commercial city. 
 
 The parliament-houfe in the old city, is 
 about half as large as Weftminfter-hall; there 
 the court of feflion for Scotland is held, nine 
 of the lords always attending to dobufmefs. 
 Under the parliament-houfe is a public 
 library, which contains a great number of 
 antient and modern books. Near the library 
 (he public records are kept, among which we 
 
 were
 
 ( 265 ) 
 
 were (hewn the articles of Union between 
 England and Scotland ; and it is fmgular to 
 obferve, that thofe articles are included irj. 
 twenty pages of folio parchment, each page 
 containing about twenty lines only : when, 
 at this period, twice as much parchment and 
 writing is confidered as neceflaiy to draw up 
 the marriage articles of a Highland laird, or 
 to convey an acre of land from one man to 
 another. 
 
 Holyrood-houfe, which is a large palace* 
 forming a quadrangle, has a number of fpa- 
 cious rooms in it, and being ftill confidered 
 as a royal houfe, the fuit of apartments 
 which are intended for the king, are kept 
 as rooms of ftate, but have no furniture 
 in them. The other apartments are occu- 
 pied by the Duke of Hamilton, who is 
 keeper, and fome let to other noblemen. In 
 one of thofe rooms is a picture of Charles II. 
 and his queen going to mount their Jiorfes, 
 and a number of little fpaniels about them. 
 This picture was done by Vandyke, and 
 
 is
 
 ( 266 ) 
 
 is inimitable. In the gallery are the por- 
 traits of all the kings r>f Scotland, many 
 of them well painted : but in the laft rebel- 
 lion fome foldiers who were quartered in the 
 palace, mifchievoufly tore the canvafs of 
 moil of them with their bayonets, The 
 chapel, which joins the palace, is a handfome 
 gothic building, and was roofed in by the 
 prefent Earl of Dundonald's father j but the 
 
 roof was made fo heavy, that it fell down, and 
 brought great part of the walls with it : fince 
 which time it has remained in ruins. In 
 this chapel we were {hewn by a woman, the 
 bones of Darnly, who was a remarkably large 
 man ; with thofe, too, of fome of the 
 other kings of Scotland, as fhe called them. 
 A human carcafs was alfo laid before us with 
 the flefh dried on, and remarkably well pre- 
 ferved. She called this the body of the 
 Countefs of Roxburgh, who had been buried 
 there for feveral hundred years. This exhi- 
 bition was the moft indelicate I ever beheld : 
 and it ought not to be fufFered. 
 
 It
 
 ( 267 -) 
 
 It is partly, perhaps, to the crouded and 
 inconvenient fituation of old Edinburgh, 
 that Scotland is indebted for the new town, 
 which may juftly be confidered as a national 
 ornament. Had the Scottiih* metropolis 
 been fituated on an eafy declivity, or a 
 plain, however narrow and irregular its 
 ftreets, the inhabitants would not have 
 looked about for a new fpot, but have con- 
 tented themfelves with making the mofl of 
 the old, and building, without a general 
 and comprehenfive plan, according to acci- 
 dent or to caprice. The filuation of Edin- 
 burgh did not eafily admit of fuch improve- 
 ment and extenfion as might correfpond, in 
 an elegant, luxurious, and enlightened age, to 
 the ideas and the wants of a people who have 
 their eyes open on the progreflive courfe of 
 fcience and art, and every invention that can 
 either embelliih, or add to the plcafure or 
 comfort of life. Happily the advancement 
 of agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, 
 has enabled the Scottim nation to realize and 
 
 give
 
 ( 268 ) 
 
 give bodily conftitution and fhape, to thofe 
 Ideas of convenience and elegance which 
 they naturally acquire from their inquifitive 
 and fpeculative turn, and alfo from that en- 
 terprizing and wandering difpofition, which 
 carries them out as adventurers, in fo many 
 walks of life, not only into England, and 
 all the foreign dependencies of the Britifh 
 empire, but into every kingdom of note on 
 the face of the earth. The fpirit of adven- 
 ture not only tends to introduce into North 
 Britain new ideas or models of refine- 
 ment; but it it is a fource of wealth, as 
 well as commerce, or rather it is itfelf, con- 
 fidered in a natural view, a fpecies of com- 
 merce, and that of a very advantageous 
 |dnd, and in which the balance of trade is 
 wholly in its favour. A great part of the 
 Scottifh youth quit their country, from 
 about fifteen to twenty years of age, and 
 pafs through London, but without being na- 
 ^uralized in it, and enervated by its vices, to 
 yarious countries, in purfuit of fame and 
 
 fortune.
 
 fortune. Their hearts by this time are im- 
 prefled with an attachment to their kindred, 
 their acquaintance, the companions of their 
 youth, perhaps to objects of the tendered 
 vows ; nay, and in fome degree, to the very 
 mountains, lakes, rivers, rocks and woods* 
 that give a fpecies of animation to a roman- 
 tic country, and even to wild wafles which 
 endear their native village, by excluding 
 grangers and marking it as their own. 
 Scotchmen, but particularly the Highlan- 
 landers, are well known to be fubjecl: to that 
 Waladieditpais, that longing defire of revifit- 
 ing their native country, which characterizes 
 {till more ilrongly the natives of Switzerland. 
 Soldiers, failors, merchants, phyficians, and 
 others, in whofe imaginations, Scotland hag 
 been uniformly uppcrmoft amidftall their pe- 
 regrinations and all the viciflitudes of life, 
 returning home with the earnings of in- 
 duftry and the favours of fortune, add to the 
 general wealth of the nation. Scotland, 
 though barren of many things, is yet fcrax 
 
 uirorum :
 
 ( 270 ) 
 
 Dtrorum : and men undoubtedly are the mofl 
 important articles in any country. 
 
 Nor is the fpirit of adventure and emigra- 
 tion confined to the younger Cons of good 
 families : it is general throughout all ranks 
 and orders of fociety. This fpirit of adven- 
 ture is connected with another fpirit not lefs 
 general in Scotland: a fpirit of literature and 
 religion, which appear, at leaft, in the great 
 mafs of the people, to influence and fupport 
 each other. In this country, the middling 
 and lower ranks of the people are constant 
 and devout in their attendance on religious 
 duties ; worfhip God in their families once, 
 and often twice every dayj and, what will ap- 
 pear extraordinary, many, nay moil of them 
 are alert difputants in the abilracled and me- 
 taphyfical doctrines of religion, which their 
 chief care is to teach to their children : and 
 this religious turn is by far the mofl ftriking 
 feature in the character of the Scottifh na- 
 tion. 
 
 Learning
 
 ( 271 ) 
 
 Learning had been planted in Great-Bri- 
 tain by apoftolical miffionaries, and Roman 
 colonies and legions, for feveral centuries be- 
 fore the Roman empire yielded to inunda- 
 tions of barbarians ; and, retiring before the 
 rude Saxons into Wales, Scotland, and the 
 adjacent iilands, maintained, even in fuch 
 fequeftered corners as Icolmkil, her facred 
 fire along with political independence, dur- 
 ing the darknefs of the middle ages. As far as 
 written memorials carry back our views, we 
 find a lettered education very general in Scot- 
 land. In every parifh, the clerk, who was alfo 
 precentor and fchool- matter, was inftructed 
 not only in arithmetic and the elements of geo- 
 metry and menfuration, but in the Latin, and 
 fometimes the Greek tongue j nay, and in fome 
 in fiances, in that logic and cafuiftry which 
 maintained their ground in the univerfities 
 and gave thefafiionor tone to the polite circles 
 of Europe for ages. It is fufficient to al- 
 lude to the hiflory of Abelard and the fa- 
 mous Crichton, to prove that there was a 
 
 time
 
 C 272 ) 
 
 time when it was accounted as gentleman-like 
 an accomplishment to be a fubtle reafoner, as 
 it is at prefent to excell in every thing that is 
 connected with elegance or miltary glory. A 
 tincture, at leaft, of erudition was often pof- 
 fefled even by nifties and mechanics, in rude 
 and turbulent periods ; and it muft have 
 been a very lingular fpectacle to a native of 
 Conftantinople or Rome, to behold a race of 
 learned and religious barbarians. 
 
 The fons of mechanics and fmall farmers, 
 after fpending the fummer and autumn in 
 various rural occupations, go to the parifli 
 fchool in winter, to learn writing, arithmetic, 
 and fometimes the Latin language : for, as to 
 Englifh, the boys and girls of the poorer fort 
 of people in Scotland, are taught, for the 
 Hiofl part, to read in the Bible even before 
 they fet their foot in a fchool. And a more 
 delightful piclure cannot be conceived by 
 human imagination, than that of a young 
 woman, in all the bloom of health and of 
 virtue, (pinning 1 flax with her little wheel, 
 
 with
 
 ( -73 ) 
 
 with a child leaning on her knee, with his 
 catechifm, or fomc collection or portion of 
 the fcriptures laid on her lap : while the child 
 reads, the work is not interrupted ; for the 
 pious mother knows what he reads, by heart. 
 The religious education of the Scots na- 
 turally leads them to perufe not only books 
 connected with the Chriftian doctrines, but 
 books on all fubjecls. And, if we may be al- 
 lowed to compare great things to fmall, in 
 the fame manner that human literature was 
 indebted in a very high degree for its prefer- 
 vation, during the reign of barbarifm, and 
 its revival in the fifteenth and fixteenth cen- 
 turies, to the enquiries and difputes of reli- 
 gionifts ; fo the religious habits of the Scots 
 carry them forward to general reflection and 
 invefligation. The free and equal govern- 
 ment of the Saxons, and a more genial cli- 
 mate and foil, naturally turned the bent 
 of the Englifh nation to various purfuits 
 of induftry, and interefted them in thofe 
 public councils, in which they enjoyed a 
 S par-
 
 ( 2 74 ) 
 
 participation. In Scotland, the natural ri- 
 gour of the climate and foil, the want of com- 
 merce and of political importance, and that 
 ftate of vafTalage and flavery, in which the 
 great body of the people were held by their 
 chieftains, prefented not to the activity of 
 their mind any grand objel of hope or of 
 exertion in this world, at leaft, within the 
 precincts of this ifland.* They therefore 
 looked around them to foreign nations, or 
 forward to a country and ftate of exiftence to 
 come. But the force of their rninds was 
 chiefly directed to the objects of religion, 
 which confoled them under their poverty and 
 civil flavery, by holding up to their views- 
 trie moil tranfporting hopes beyond death 
 and the grave, and raifing them to a fellow- 
 fliip and communion with the King of Kings, 
 in whofe fight all mortals are equal. This 
 expanded fentiment of citizenfhip and foci- 
 ety with fuperior beings, this religious enthu- 
 
 fiafm 
 
 * Being the natural enemies before the Acceflion, and: 
 until the Union, the rivals of England.
 
 ( 275 ) 
 
 fiafm, the moft powerful engine among mor- 
 tals, whenever it was powerfully excited, 
 formed a counterbalance, and fubverrcd in 
 Scotland all the powers of Government ; and at 
 all times, even the mofl tranquil, gave a firm- 
 nefs and dignity of conduct to the fmcere 
 profeflbr of religious principles, which to the 
 feudal tyrant was an object of jealoufy and 
 hatred. There are abundance of well-au- 
 thenticated inftances of lairds, a clafs of men 
 who form a kind of fecondary ariflocracy, 
 exprefling great antipathy to certain indi- 
 viduals who were their tenants, and even de- 
 priving them of their poflefiions, for no 
 other reafon than that they were tenacious 
 and zealous abettors of religious doclrines. 
 The haughty chief confidered religious zeal 
 as a kind of difloyalty to himfelf. In fact, 
 the grandeur of the laird was not a little di- 
 miniihed in the eyes of his tenants, when 
 once they became familiar with the Jewifli 
 prophets, who treated lords, princes, and 
 kings, as they dcfervcd, with great freedom 
 
 and feverity. 
 
 S 2 But
 
 But, it is not the prefent object to illuf- 
 trate the political confequences that flow from 
 the religious turn of the Scots. Thefe in- 
 deed are fufficiently difplayed in the hiflory 
 of both Scotland and England. What is not 
 fo well underilood, is, that connection which 
 fubfifts between the literary and religious 
 genius of the Scottifh nation, on the one 
 part, and their fpirit of adventure and emi- 
 gration on the other. Literature, of which 
 religion is the moft important branch, is not 
 confined in Scotland to the circle of the few : 
 it extends to the many, and enlightens the 
 nation. Now, wherever we trace the pro- 
 grefs of knowledge and fcience, among an- 
 tient or modern nations, we behold their 
 powerful and beneficial tendency to elevate 
 as well as enlighten the mind, to dilate the 
 conceptions of men, to multiply their pro- 
 jects, and extend the fcene of their action. 
 The Scots, in every profeffion, from books, 
 from converfation, from the example of their 
 relations and acquaintance, acquire a fpirit 
 
 of
 
 ( 277 ) 
 
 of enterprize, and launch forth as needy ad- 
 venturers . If they are fortunate, they return 
 with their wealth to their native country, 
 where they fettle, and raife and perpetuate 
 new races of travellers. This fpiritof wan- 
 dering will, however, abate of courfe, in 
 proportion to the improvement of their 
 own country, which, at prefent, appears to 
 be in a ftate of rapid progreflion. It is ob- 
 ferved, that aits of every kind make quicker 
 advances in countries that have been but 
 little cultivated, than in fuch as have enjoyed 
 the blefiings of Ikiil and indufhy, to a cer- 
 tain degree, for ages. As lime, or marie, or 
 any other manure, operates more quickly, 
 and with greater effect on new, than on old 
 ground, fo new inventions and inftitutions 
 iind eaficr admittance, as well as a freeer and 
 more rapid courfe, in countries not pre-oc- 
 cupicd by habits and cuftoms, than in fucfi 
 as are pofTefTed with a conceit, that they 
 have already reached the higheil pitch of im* 
 prove men t. The former are docile and ac- 
 S 3
 
 tive : the latter prone to felf-conceit, and to 
 tread in beaten paths. For this reafon, va- 
 rious improvements are introduced with eafe 
 and with fuccefs into Rum* a, which are re- 
 jected by the Italians, the Portugueze, and 
 the Spaniards. 
 
 The; e is an evident, and a very impor- 
 tant diflinction, between nations in a ftate 
 of advancement, and nations in a ftate of 
 declination : thofe whom the ardour of 
 novelty and imitation carries forward to 
 improvement of every kind 5 and thofe who, 
 in familiar language, confider themfelves as 
 having had their day, who feel a degree of 
 melancholy dejec~lion and languor j who, 
 infcead of looking forward to a career in arts 
 and arms, have a conftant retrofpecl to fome 
 former period in their hirlory, and confole 
 themfelves by contemplating the talents, the 
 prowefs, the fplendour, and the fame of their 
 anceftors. But the fituation of Scotland 
 appears to be, in refpect to this diftinction, 
 fomewhat anomalous. For, though there 
 
 be
 
 ( 2 79 ) 
 
 be not in Europe a nation of higher, per- 
 haps not of fuch high antiquity as Scotland, 
 that is, a nation more early, or fo early 
 known, that has preferred to the prefent day 
 its antient and original independence ; nor 
 yet any ftate or kingdom, now independent, 
 that was fooner vifited by literature and re- 
 ligion : yet it is certain, that in agriculture, 
 commerce, and mechanical arts, the Scots, 
 until late years, were greatly behind their 
 fouthern neighbours. Scotland then, in the 
 career of improvement, has darted, in the 
 prefent aufpicious sera, with peculiar advan- 
 tage. She looks backward with pride, yet 
 forward with alacrity ; and, with enlarged 
 views, ftudies to make the molt of her natu- 
 ral produce, and local fituation. 
 
 The face of Scotland, interfered with na- 
 vigable rivers, lakes, and arms of the fea, and 
 variegated with mountains, moorlands, and 
 fertile vallics and plains ; the face of Scot- 
 Lind, which yields nothing to floth, but re- 
 fufes not any boon to the hand of induftry, 
 
 S 4 and
 
 ( 280 ) 
 
 and thus provides for the health and hap- 
 pinefs of her fons, infpired the fagacious mind 
 of Acjron Hill, half a century ago, with a 
 prefage, that this unripencd beauty would 
 have her day, and even excell her filler Eng- 
 land, whom he compared to a gay coquette. 
 Certain it is, that the great manufacturers of 
 England have migrated from the eaftern and 
 the fbuthern, to the weftern and the northern 
 coafts of England. The woollen manufac- 
 ture was at firft carried on in Kent, SuiTex, 
 and EfTex. It palled into Devonshire, where 
 it ftill flourifhes ; and has travelled from 
 thence northward into York/hire. Lan- 
 cafhire and Warwick/hire have, in like man- 
 ner, become the feats of manufactures in 
 iron and fteej, which were at firft carried on 
 folely in and near the metropolis, whither 
 they were imported frqm Flanders. Cheap- 
 nefs of labour, provifions, and fuel, regularity 
 of manners, induflry, exemption from heavy 
 taxes : thefe were the circumftances which 
 effected thofe vicifiitucles - t and tli-i fame 
 
 caufes
 
 ( 28. ) 
 
 caufes will continue to produce the fame ef- 
 fects. 
 
 Human induftry levels all the inequalities 
 of nature, and even converts apparent diffi- 
 culties and impofli bill ties, into the means of 
 anfwering fome ufeful or elegant purpofe. 
 On the bofom of the ocean, which feems de- 
 ftined to keep the nations afunder from each 
 ether, the bufy merchant wafts home to the 
 fhores of the ilerile north, the produce of 
 more bountiful climates, which the hardi- 
 nsfs and activity natural to cold regions con- 
 vert into articles of convenience and lux- 
 urious accommodation. The world begins 
 now to look for the produce of the mulberry 
 and the cotton tree, to the land of thirties 
 and lloes : and to the fierce Caledonians, 
 for fuch works of fancy and taitc, as were 
 formerly expected only from Italy and 
 Greece. rBut it is time to return from this 
 digrefiion, to whicii we have been led by a 
 profpect of the New Town of Edinburgh, a 
 
 pleafmg
 
 ( 282 ) 
 
 pleafing proof, at once, of opulence and ele- 
 gant tafte. 
 
 The North Loch, formerly a part of that 
 lake which antiently furrounded Edinburgh 
 on every fide, excepting a narrow neck of 
 land on the eaft, and afterwards an ofFenfive 
 marfn, drained, adorned with fhrubbery, and 
 fubjecied to a magnificent bridge, forms a 
 ftriking boundary between the Old and the 
 New Town, and adds to the beauty of 
 both. Befides the communication that is, 
 opened acrofs the mar fli between the towns, 
 by that magnificent ftruclure, a terrace, 
 which is every day enlarged, has lately 
 been extended between them from the 
 Lawn-Market, near the Caflle-Hill. This 
 terrace is formed by the rubbage of old 
 boufes, and the earth which is dug up in 
 laying the foundations of new ones. That 
 the earth and rubbage fhould be difpofed of 
 in this manner, was the contrivance of a 
 very judicious and cool-headed citizen, who 
 has borne all the honours of magiftraey, 
 
 and
 
 ( 283 ) 
 
 and is called, in honour of his name, Prt/voft 
 Grieves Br/gg. This, though one of the 
 moft fimple, is at the fame time, one of the 
 moft Jailing monuments of his judgment, 
 and concern for the public, that could be 
 deviled by human invention. Statues, pil- 
 lars, maufoleums, temples, palaces : all 
 thefe foon moulder away through time, 
 if they are fpared by the antipathy of barba- 
 rian invafion. But the flructure charged 
 with the memory of the worthy provofl, 
 fafely low, can never fall. Renovated and 
 augmented, like the vegetables that adorn 
 the face of nature, by what appears ofFenfive 
 and redundant, it will flourifh throughout 
 ages and ages, and frefh ilowers will fpring 
 in honour of its founder. When the proud 
 arch, thrown orertliemarih, in another part, 
 (hall be again levelled with the ground, as 
 it once has been ; the paiTenger (hall pafs 
 fccure on Provoft Grieve's Brigg, which is 
 not to be over-turned but by fome earth- 
 quake
 
 ( 284 ) 
 
 quake or inundation, or other convulfion of 
 nature. 
 
 It would be premature, did it come within 
 the compafs of our plan, if there can be faid 
 to be any plan in a collection of memoran- 
 dums taken merely as they occurred, to en- 
 ter into a minute defcription of a nafcent 
 town. Let it fuffice, therefore, to fay, that 
 New Edinburgh is built, or a building, on 
 an elevated plain, extending for many miles 
 from eaft to weft, with a gentle declivity on 
 the fouth, where the profpecT: is terminated 
 by the town and caftle of the old city, and 
 an adjacent hill riling almoft perpendicularly 
 to a great height ; and on the north, and 
 north-weft, by the Firth of Forth, Fife, and 
 the Grampians over-topping intervening 
 hills, and raifing their blue fummits to the 
 flues. The objecls feen from hence are not 
 only fitted to pleafe and foothe the imagi- 
 nation, by their natural fublimity and beau- 
 ty, but fuch as aflbciate in the mind of a 
 Scotchman, the moft important paflages in 
 
 the
 
 the hiftory of his country, and arc, on that 
 account, doubly interesting. For, without 
 entering into the queftion ftarted by the 
 learned and ingenuous profeiTor Reid, (the 
 father in this country of that philofophy, 
 which is injurioufly afcribed by many to Dr. 
 Beattie of Aberdeen) whether it be not fome- 
 thing moral that is at bottom of that plea- 
 fare which we take in contemplating the 
 grandeur and beauty of natural objedts, cer- 
 tain it is, that where we are interefled in any 
 fcene by moral affbciations, its beauties arc 
 perceived and relifhed with double fenfibility 
 and ardour. A traveller might behold from 
 one of the Cordilleras, or Andes, in South 
 America, a fpe6lacle ftill more extenfive and 
 majeitic, than what is to be enjoyed from 
 any of the mountains of Savoy. But how 
 different the efFecls of thefefublime profpecls, 
 on the mind of the cultivated European ? 
 Italy and the Mediterranean Sea, are out- 
 done in extent and natural magnificence by 
 Chili, and the Pacific Ocean : nor is the Po, 
 
 with
 
 with the Plain of Lombardy, to be com- 
 pared with the Rio de la Plata, or the River 
 of the Amazons, and the regions that are ex- 
 tended on their fhores : but they excite not 
 thofe ideas and correfpondent emotions that 
 are luggerced to the mind by the hi (lory of 
 the Egyptians, the Phcenecians, the Car- 
 thaginians, the Greeks, and the Romans. 
 
 But, at the fame time that the New Town 
 of Edinburgh emphatically difplays the 
 profperity of Scotland, and that profperity 
 leads us to the Union which gave it birth, 
 we muft acknowledge that this great political 
 meafure, if it conferred on the people of 
 Scotland the bleilings of free government, 
 and extended commerce, was yet attended 
 with many difadvantages. It deprived the 
 Scots of the commercial privileges which 
 were granted to them by foreign nations, 
 particularly by France, and fubjecled them, 
 while their trade was yet ill able to bear it, 
 to the difcou raging cuftoms and impofls 
 which took place in England. It flunned 
 
 and
 
 and checked the commerce on their eaftern 
 coafts. It almofl difmantled the beautiful 
 peninfula of Fife, of that chain of towns that 
 fringed its coafts. It drew the nobility and 
 principal gentry to London. And fo languid 
 and melancholy was the ftate of Scotland, 
 like a tranfplanted vegetable before it ftrikes 
 its roots into the new foil, that within fix or 
 feven years after the Union, a motion was 
 made by the Scotch peers, in the Houfe of 
 Lords, for its difTolution. The blood hr.s 
 now returned to the mod northerly extre- 
 mities of the empire : but its influx to the 
 heart left them long pale and trembling. 
 
 By the Union, too, the Scotch nation muft 
 have loft not a little of their national charac- 
 ter > and that ardour which is infpired by the 
 prefcnce of the fovereign, and the exclulive 
 direction of their own affairs. If a nation 
 is fmall, and inhabits a narrow country, they 
 lofe their independence, and fall under the 
 power of fome powerful neighbour. If they 
 are very numerous, and inhabit a large and 
 
 extenfive
 
 extenfive territory, they are difunited, and 
 lofe fight of their interefts and honour, as 
 one community. A few ingrofs the ma- 
 nagement of public affairs, and with-hold 
 or (hade from the many, the fubjetts of pub- 
 lic zeal and political occupation. The 
 greater part are thrown into a ftate of lan^ 
 guor and obfcurity, and fuffer thernfelves, as 
 is well obferved by Profeffor Fergufon, to be 
 governed at difcretion, The Roman people 
 loft their patriotifm, when the rights of 
 Romans were extended to the other nations 
 of Italy* 
 
 The body of the Scotch people, it is 
 true, rather gained political importance by 
 the Union of their nation with England, 
 than loft it : for, though excluded by the 
 ariftocratical fway that prevails in Scotland 
 from parliamentary elections, by the Union 
 they acquired wealth, which is always at- 
 tended by influence and power in various 
 fiiapes : and, on all public emergencies, and 
 in all great political queftions, the voice of 
 
 men
 
 rrien of property will always make its way, 
 and have its effect in the aflemblies of the 
 nation. But, what would the face of af- 
 fairs have been in Scotland, if the people, 
 as in England, had been made partakers of 
 political power, and the antient race of their 
 kings have flill fwayed the fceptre within 
 the precincts of the kingdom ? With thefe ad- 
 vantages, with a nouriihing colony at Darien, 
 and the favour of all the national enemies of 
 England, what progrefs would they not have 
 made in manufactures, arts, navigation, 
 commerce, and all that gives power and fplen- 
 dour to nations ? Fortunately for England, 
 thefe fuppoiitions were never realized, and 
 both nations are happily united in one for- 
 tune and fate, as in one ifland. 
 
 If the New Town of Edinburgh excel! s the 
 Old in beauty, elegance, and commodious 
 as well as falubrious difpofition and fituation, 
 the Old excells the New in variety, boldnefs, 
 and grandeur of afpecl. Both of them bear 
 marks, and may be confidered as emblema- 
 
 T tical
 
 tical of the ages in which they received their 
 complexion and form. As the antient city 
 of Edinburgh is boldly terminated by the 
 caftle, on the weft fide, fo it is ftill more 
 nobly bounded by Salijlury Craggs, and Ar- 
 thur s Seat on the eaft : the firft denominated 
 from the Earl of Salifbury, who, in the reign 
 of Edward III. accompanied that prince in- 
 an expedition againft the Scots ; the laft 
 from Arthur, the Britifb prince, who, in the 
 end of the fixth century r defeated the Saxons 
 in the neighbourhood of that confpicuous 
 place. 
 
 Arthur's Seat rifes, in a manner, bold and 
 abrupt, till its rocky fummit reaches an 
 height five hundred feet from the bafe. On 
 the weft fide of this hill, and on the other 
 fide of a fmall marfliy dell, lie Salifbury 
 Craggs, which prefent to the city an awful 
 front of broken and bafaltic rocks. Thefe, 
 befides ores, fpars, rock plants, and here 
 and there, it is faid, fome precious ftones, 
 afford an inexhauftible fupply of hard ftones 
 
 for
 
 ( 291 ) 
 
 for pavement, and other purpofes ; and 
 it is from this quarry that we have a great 
 part of thofe which pave the ftreets of 
 London. The hand of the quarry-man has 
 worn down a part of the Craggs into a fpa- 
 cious fhelf, ftretching about midway from 
 their fummit to their bafe. 
 
 From this lofty terrace, which, at all times, 
 forms a dry walk, fheltered from the north-eaf- 
 terly and earl: winds, you look down on Edin- 
 burgh, of which, with its environs, and the ad- 
 jacent country, you have a near and diftincl: 
 profpecl:. But from the top of Arthur's Seat 
 the view is more noble and extenfive. The 
 German Ocean, the whole courfe of the 
 Forth, the diftant Grampians, and a large 
 portion of the moft populous and beft culti- 
 vated part of Scotland, form a landfcape fub- 
 lime, various, and beautiful. The filence, 
 folitude, and rugged afpecl of thefe neigh- 
 bouring hills, with adjacent morafles and 
 lakes, form a ftriking contraft with tire hur- 
 ry, the din, and the fnug artificialnefs of the 
 
 T 2 city 5
 
 city; while the buftle, the anxiety, and the 
 conftraint of a city life, on the other hand, 
 fet off, and endear the charms of thefe rural 
 haunts, whofe genius, from the wild heights 
 of nature, looks down with amazement at 
 the vain cares, and with contempt, on the 
 proudeft edifices of toiling mortals. This 
 romantic ground, this affemblage of hills, 
 rocks, precipices, morafles, and lakes, was 
 enclofed by James V. and formed into a 
 park, belonging to the palace of Holyrood- 
 houfe, with which it communicates. Both 
 park and palace, with certain portions of 
 ground adjoining to the latter, afford an 
 afylum for infolvent debtors, who cannot 
 complain of wanting, in this fpacious prifon, 
 either air or exercife. 
 
 From the top of Arthur's Seat, you are 
 entertained with the fight of a very great 
 number of beautiful villas and gentlemen's 
 feats. Of thefe I fhall only mention Dud- 
 dinglton, the elegant manfion of the Earl of 
 Abercorn. Arthur's Seat, on the fouth, is, 
 
 in
 
 ( 2 93 ) 
 
 Ln many parts, a perpendicular rock, com- 
 pofed of natural columns, regularly penta- 
 gonal, or hexagonal, about three feet in 
 diameter, and from forty to fifty feet 
 high. At the bottom of thefe bafaltes 
 is a lake of confiderable extent, and on the 
 other fide of this lake (lands Puddingfton. 
 The walks and ground about the 1-oufe, 
 which is at once a commodious habi- 
 tation, and a beautiful piece of architecture, 
 are laid out with great judgment. This vijr- 
 la is fo fituated as to be concealed from the 
 view of Edinburgh, which, as it is not two 
 miles from that city, (hews very ju ft tafte in 
 the noble proprietor. It would be difficult 
 to find another villa in Europe fo elegant, 
 and at the fame time fo rural and romantic 
 in its fituation, fo near a great city. I know 
 not of any great city that touches, like Edin- 
 burgh, on fuch fteep, rugged, and lofty an 
 hill, as Arthur's Seat, except Prague, the ca- 
 pital of Bohemia. On tli2 north-eaft fide of 
 Edinburgh lies the Calton-Hill, upon the top 
 of which there is an obfervatory, half-finifli- 
 T 3 ed.
 
 cd. Around this hill there is a very pleafant 
 ferpentine walk, which commands a view of 
 the whole city of Edinburgh, and all the 
 adjacent country, which is well cultivated 
 and enriched with wood. You have alfo, 
 from this eminence, a view of Leith, the 
 whole Firth of Forth out to the fea, the 
 town of Prefton-Pans, and many other ob- 
 jefts. 
 
 Leith, which is between one and two miles 
 from Edinburgh, is the fea-port of that city, 
 and contains about ten thoufand inhabitants. 
 There is a tolerable pier at this place, with 
 about an hundred veflels belonging to it, of 
 different fizes, half of which, nearly, is em- 
 ployed in foreign, and the other half in the 
 coafting trade. The harbour is formed by 
 the conflux of the River Leith with the fea. 
 The depth of the water, at the mouth of the 
 harbour, is, at neap tides, about nine, but in 
 high fpring tides, about fixteen feet. The 
 town of Leith, fituated on the very brink of 
 the Forth, is evidently more commodious for 
 
 trade
 
 ( 295 ) 
 
 trade than that of Edinburgh, the inhabi- 
 tants of which have fallen on various expe- 
 dients to deprive their neighbours of thofe 
 advantages which arc held out to them by 
 die hand of nature. 
 
 The harbour of Leith was granted to the 
 community of Edinburgh, by a charter from 
 King Robert I. A. D. 1329 : but the banks 
 of the river that formed the harbour, be- 
 longed to Logan of Relialrig, from whom 
 the citizens were under the neceflity of pur- 
 chafing the wafte ground that lay between 
 their houfes and the river, for the purpofe 
 of wharfs for the conveniency of fhipping. 
 Neither could they keep fhops for the fale 
 of bread, wine, and other articles, nor build 
 magazines for corn, till the liberty of doing 
 fo was purchafed from the fuperior of the 
 ground. The citizens of Edinburgh, there- 
 fore, in order to exclude thole of Leith from, 
 .every branch of commerce, purchafed from 
 Logan an exclufive privilege of trade in that 
 town ; of keeping ware-houfes there, and 
 T 4 inns
 
 ( 296 ) 
 
 inns for the reception and entertainment of 
 ftrangers. The inhabitants of this opprefTed 
 town were cheered, for a time, with the 
 hopes of relief from royal favour, but thefe 
 proved delufive -, and Leith continues, to this 
 day, to be dependent on Edinburgh. 
 
 Whether from a love of popularity, or that 
 natural benignity which jftirs in the human 
 breaft towards all who are not objects of ri- 
 vality and hatred, certain it is that, in every 
 nation, fovereign princes have ufually fhewn 
 marks of favour to the villages and towns 
 where they happened to take up their refi- 
 dence. Mary of Lorraine, Queen Regent, 
 on the eruption of thofe outrages that mark- 
 ed the courfe of the Reformation in Scotland, 
 perceived the importance of the town and 
 harbour of Leith, which opened a ready in- 
 let to troops from France, and afforded the 
 means of a retreat, on any defperate emer- 
 gency, to that kingdom. In this place me 
 frequently refided, and furrounded it with a 
 wall, ftrengthened with eight baftions. After 
 
 the
 
 ( 297 ) 
 
 the inhabitants had purchafed from Reftalrig 
 the fuperiority of Leith, which they did at 
 the price cf 3000!. Scotch, fhe erected it into 
 a borough of barony, and promifcd to con- 
 ftilute it a royal borough. But, on her 
 death, Francis and Mary, violating the pri- 
 vate rights of the people of Leith, fold the 
 fuperiority of it to the community of Edin-r 
 burgh, to whom it has fmce been confirmed 
 by grants from fucceftive fovereigns.* 
 
 Between Edinburgh and Leith, there is a 
 fmall botanical garden, well flocked with 
 plants of various kinds. It is five acres in 
 extent : the foil, in general, light, fandy, or 
 gravelly. Although it is not quite twenty 
 years fmce it was made, the trees are fo far 
 advanced, as to afford good fhelter to the 
 tender plants, For this feminary, in which 
 botanical lectures are given every day, in the 
 fummer feafon, the world is indebted to 
 about 2000!. granted by the Britifli Govern- 
 ment, and 25!. annually from the city of 
 
 Edin- 
 
 Arnot's Hiftory of Edinburgh.
 
 Edinburgh, for paying the rent of the ground. 
 The city is undoubtedly deeply interefted in 
 every thing that may tend to attract Gran- 
 gers. They cannot employ the revenue of 
 their community to better purpofe, than in 
 beautifying the town, and promoting every 
 defign that may be fubfervient cither to uti-r 
 lity, elegance^ or advancement in fcience. It 
 is but juftice to the magiftrates pf Edin- 
 burgh, to obferve, that in the proraption 
 of thefe ends they are not backward. 
 
 The clear revenue of the city of Edin- 
 burgh, or that which remains after making 
 the fixed annual payments, amounts to about 
 12,000!. ilerling: and, it would have a- 
 mounted to one- third more, nay, probably, 
 to as much more, had it not been for the in- 
 troduction of tea, and the progreffive flames 
 of that infernal fpirit, whifky. Moil of the 
 royal boroughs of Scotland, I believe all of 
 them, have obtained from the legiflature, for 
 defray ing the expences of improvements, and 
 inflitutions of public utility, a duty of two- 
 pence
 
 ( 299 ) 
 
 pence Scotch, that is, two-thirds of one half- 
 penny, on the pint* of ale and beer, con- 
 fumed within their royalty or jurifdic"lion. 
 This duty was extended by ftatutc in 1723, 
 from the city of Edinburgh over the Canon- 
 Gate, the pariih. of St. Cuthbcrt's, (which is 
 to the Scotch metropolis, what Mary-le- 
 bone is to London) and South and North 
 Leith. This duty, in 1690, when levied only 
 in the city, amounted to . 4000 o o 
 In 1724, - to - 7939 16 i 
 J 73^ 6101 10 8 
 
 I75 o - - - 4758 18 8 
 1764 - - - 3550 o o 
 And in 1776 - - - 2197 o o 
 Since this period, I have been informed, it 
 
 has 
 
 A Scotch pint makes four Euglifh pints : but a Scotch 
 pound is only twenty-pence. About twenty years ago, an 
 Englifh gentleman, at an inn in P-Tth, was told that claret 
 could not be fold under three />W>, i. e. pounds a pint. He 
 at firft fwore he would have none of it : but he changed his 
 mind when he was informed, that the Scotch pound was only 
 twenty-pence : but that their pint contained two Englifli 
 quarts.
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 has continued to decreafe, but to what pre- 
 cife extent I cannot determine. 
 
 The late King of Pruffia was wont to fay, 
 et What have we Germans to do with tea ? 
 In my younger days I ufed to take a cup of 
 ale, even for breakfafi, and I never felt my- 
 felf the worfe for it.'' The magiilracy 
 of Edinburgh will, no doubt, applaud the 
 practice of his Pruflian Majefty, and wifh 
 that their fellow-citizens had followed his 
 example. But, the difufe of drinking ale in 
 Scotland, which is unfortunately very gene- 
 ral, is not fo much to be lamented, on ac- 
 count of the public revenue of Edinburgh, as 
 of thofe pernicious confequences which flow 
 from thofe pf the liquors fubftituted in its 
 place. 
 
 Without reprobating the ufeof tea, an ele- 
 gant, fafe, and pleafmg refreshment, as well 
 as a fubjec~l of a very extenfive commerce, 
 and public revenue, there will appear to be 
 too good ground for lamenting the general 
 rejection of ale in North Britain, when we 
 
 reflect
 
 ( 3 01 ) 
 
 reflect on itsfuccfdjntum, among the middling 
 and lower ranks, whijky> a fpecies of drink 
 which is equally pernicious to health and to 
 morals. The diftilling of fpirits in Scotland, 
 has of late become a great branch of manufac- 
 ture. Stills have been multiplied exceedingly : 
 and the Scotch diftillers, from the cheapnefs 
 of fuel and labour, and other caufes, have 
 been able to underfell the London diftillers in 
 their own market. It has been thought pro- 
 per by the legiflature, to impofe fuch taxes 
 on thzjpzrit trade of Scotland, as (hall equa- 
 lize it with that of the metropolis. This is 
 certainly a departure from that anti-mono- 
 polizing fpirit, which is the bafis of the Com- 
 mercial Treaty, the moft important meafure 
 that has been taken by the prefent Admini- 
 flration. If Scotland, or any other province 
 or divifion of this ifland, pofleiFes peculiar 
 advantages for carrying on any branch of 
 manufacture or commerce, why mould it 
 not improve, and pufh them to their utmoft 
 
 extent ?
 
 ( 3 2 ) 
 
 extent ? Not to enter into general reafoning, 
 on a point fo obvious, and to confine our 
 views to the cafe in queflion, it may be ob-* 
 ferved, that the flourifhing ftate of the diftil- 
 leries in Scotland, promotes agriculture in 
 Norfolk and Yorkfliire, and other counties 
 in England. But is it not to be greatly 
 doubted whether, on an enlarged fcale of po- 
 litics, and of morality, which enters deeply 
 into every found political fyftem, it be wif- 
 dom to fuffer people in any country to con- 
 vert into liquid fire, fo great a proportion of 
 that grain, which affords falubrious fufte- 
 nance to man and to beaft, and forms the 
 flrength of a nation by nurfmg up a race of 
 healthful peafants ? 
 
 The excitement that is given to agri- 
 culture by diftilleries, could never be ren- 
 dered either general or permanent. It is 
 a tranfient and improper fubjecl: of tax- 
 ation, and fource of revenue which flrikes at 
 the very vitals of the people, and infenfibly 
 deftroys the roots of population. From the 
 languor of fatigue among the labouring 
 
 poor,
 
 ( 33 ) 
 
 poor, from that of inoccupation, or what is 
 commonly called ennui in others, and from 
 that difappointment and agitation of mind, 
 whether of joy or forrow, which is incident 
 to all the fons of men, there is fo general a 
 propenfity to intoxication, that all wife go- 
 vernments ought to guard againft the in- 
 creafe of fpirituous liquors, as that Promethean 
 fire which is the fpring of all human cala- 
 mities. Sound temperance, the parent of 
 regular indufhy, provides with eafe for all 
 the wants of nature, or bears up with ala- 
 crity under misfortunes which cannot be 
 avoided. The li-obvious draught, which 
 fteeps the fenfcs in forgctfulnefs for a while, 
 expofes them afterwards to the keeneft ar- 
 rows of adverfity. 
 
 But, it is faid, that the people will have 
 fpirituous liquors at all adventures ; and, 
 that it is equally advantageous to the reve- 
 nue and to agriculture, to encourage the mak- 
 ing of home, rather than the importation of 
 foreign fpirits. It is not, however, to be 
 
 fup-
 
 fuppofed, that the people of Scotland would 
 confume as great a quantity of foreign fpi- 
 rits, as they do of their whifky, which, from 
 the multiplication of Hills* becomes every day 
 more and more common. Does the native 
 of France eat as much animal food as an 
 Englifhman ? Or an Englishman drink as 
 much wine as a Frenchman ? I mean, not 
 the higher, but the middling, and the lower 
 ranks of the people. Inftead of encouraging 
 or not difcouraging diftilleries, it would be 
 good policy to raife, by all means, the duty 
 on fpirits and malt, which would fall on the 
 higher ranks and the diftillers, and lower it 
 on ale and beer, which would afford a very 
 wholefome and nouriming beverage to the 
 poor and the labouring people. 
 
 This commutation would contribute 
 greatly to the health and the population of 
 the country, and have an happy influence on 
 the herring fisheries. The poor Scot has 
 neither porter nor ale. The ale, as he calls 
 it, or two-penny, which he was wont to 
 
 drink
 
 35 
 
 drink before the impofition of the n: alt-tax, 
 has been diluted by that grievance into a vvafli, 
 in companion of which, the common table- 
 beer of England is Burton ale. Hence the 
 general practice in Scotland, of drinking fpi- 
 rits mixed fometimes with water, butoftcner 
 unmixed. This " heating potion," as is 
 obferved by a lively writer, " is ill qualified 
 c{ to quench the thirft of a palate, fpiced, 
 " falted, and peppered with a Glafgow her- 
 " ring, an oaten cake, and an onion. In 
 " former days, in the golden age of Scotland, 
 <c when men were at liberty to turn their 
 " barley, without reflraint, into wholefome 
 " ale, men of all ranks, as appears, among 
 " other evidences, from the poems of Cap- 
 <c tain Hamilton, and the poet Allan Ram- 
 " fay, would meet together, either at home, 
 " or fome fnug thatched tavern, not far from 
 " their refpeftive refidences, and enjoy the 
 tc tale or the fong in favour of Caledonia, 
 " or fome other difcourfe, over a cup of na- 
 " tive ale, and the produce of the fifliing- 
 U hook
 
 " hook and net, fetched out by cheerfuf 
 " hands on their native fhores. Then the 
 " herring fifheries flourifhed, and the Scot- 
 " tifh fleets were found in every part of the 
 <e world. But where is the falamander that 
 " can make a comfortable repaft on a gill of 
 " whilky and a pickled herring ?" 
 
 Without adopting this gentleman's exag^ 
 gerated praifes of former times, when the 
 Scotrifh nation laboured under greater op- 
 preffions than even that which he complains 
 of, I heartily join him in recommending to 
 the fociety for promoting the fifheries, and 
 the gentlemen of Scotland in general, " to 
 " endeavour, by all means, to pour forth 
 " again, throughout the parched land of 
 " Caledonia, the refrefhing dreams of good 
 " ale." 
 
 Although there is not any poor's tax ia 
 Scotland, there is not a people in the world, 
 among whom real objects of companion find 
 readier protection and affiftance than the 
 Scots. To the honour of the lower clafs of 
 
 people
 
 ( 37 ) 
 
 people in Scotland, it muft be mentioned, 
 that they think it difgraceful to beg, and 
 even to accept the fmalleft charitable dona- 
 tion. They therefore, for the moft part, 
 purfue their different paths of induftry, as 
 long as they are able to crawl about, and 
 fubfiil on the private bounty, however fcanty, 
 of their neareft relations, rather than make 
 their wants known to the parifli. It is only 
 real and clamant neceflity that urges the 
 humbled Scot to accept of the eleemofynary 
 contributions of his countrymen, which are 
 not compulfatory, but voluntary, being col- 
 lected at the church doors on Sundays, and 
 on other occafions of public worfhip. The 
 wandering beggars that are met with in Scot- 
 land, come from the Highland country, 
 where there is not fuch regular encourage- 
 ment to induftry as in the Lowlands, and 
 where a failure of fuch crops of corn as a 
 cold and mountainous country, in fo nor- 
 therly a latitude, is fitted to produce, often 
 drives the poor people to make a tour into 
 U 2 the
 
 the low countries, as their only refource, 
 It muft be confeffed, at the fame time, that 
 an Highlander, who is, from the nature of 
 his country, and his manner of life, a more 
 erratic animal than a Lowlander, is drawn 
 forth to the field of mendicants by a fmaller 
 degree of neceffity. It is alfo to be obferved, 
 that the fhame of begging is not fo great, 
 when they travel among a different and dif- 
 tant people, as it would be in their own pa- 
 rifhes. Befides all this r the Highlanders 
 were wont to confider their Lowland neigh- 
 bours, whom they confidered as interlopers, 
 and denominated Saxons, in the light of ene- 
 mies, whom it was no dishonour to deprive 
 of their wealth, whether by rapine or felici- 
 tation. A crew of failors, thrown on dif- 
 tant and inimical fhores, feel little, if any 
 fliame in begging, or remorfe at feizing the 
 neceflaries and comforts of life, by whatever 
 means he may acquire them. Somewhat of 
 this irregular and iniquitous fentiment in. 
 morals, influences even the mutual inter- 
 
 courfe
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 courfe of nations. A Chinefe fcarcely con- 
 fiders it as a deviation from duty, to cheat 
 and fpoil an European ; and an European 
 fancies that he is not under the fame moral 
 reftraints in his dealings with Indians and 
 Africans, that fhould regulate his conduct to 
 an Englifhman or a Dutchman. It may 
 alfo be obferved, that the fhame of begging, 
 or the fenfe of honour and independence, 
 which is very ftrong among the very poorer! 
 ranks in Scotland, is naturally blunted by 
 living : and being loft to the eye of their kin- 
 dred and neighbours, in the magnitude of 
 populous and extenfive cities, a Scot will 
 beg in London or Edinburgh, who would be 
 aihamcd, who durft not to do fo in his native 
 village. 
 
 About five and twenty years ago, when 
 that excellent nobleman, the late Earl of 
 Kmnoujl, already mentioned in the courfe of 
 thefe notes, retired from England and public 
 life, to his paternal eftate in Perthfhire, he 
 was aitoniilied to find that there was not K> 
 
 U 3 much
 
 ( 3 10 ) 
 
 much as one pauper in the parifh. The col- 
 lections at the church door were either lent 
 to other pari flies, or laid out at intereft, as a 
 growing fund for contingencies . Lord Kin- 
 noull, the fole proprietor of the parifh, (truck 
 with this circnmftance, recommended to the 
 kirk-feflion, that is, the minifter and the 
 elders, the adminiftrators in Scotland of the 
 voluntary parochial charities, to diitribute 
 the weekly collection among poor cottagers. 
 Of thefe, however, there was not one who 
 would accept a (hilling. It was therefore 
 put into the form of flax, which was diflri- 
 buted as prefents among poor, but induf- 
 trious women, who, even then, did not ac- 
 cept of it without reluctance and heiitation. 
 This fenfe of honour, among the lowed 
 people in Scotland, is a powerful reftraint on 
 ciflipation, and incentive to induftry : while 
 the provifion that is made for the poor in 
 England, by acts of parliament, encourages 
 idlenefs, infolence, and debauchery, and preiTes 
 down the load of taxation on the induftrious 
 
 and
 
 ( 3" ) 
 
 and fober part of the nation. The church* 
 wardens, veftry-clerks, and other parifh-ofH- 
 cers in England, are, in general, as great nui- 
 fances, and as oppreflive to the people, as 
 the greateft beggars, to whofe vices and follies 
 they adminifter fuel and fupport from the 
 vitals of the people. It is high time that the 
 ftate of the poor and poor's rates were made 
 an objecl: of ferious attention by the legif- 
 lature. 
 
 The funds of the poor in Scotland, though 
 fmall, are faithfully adminiftered - t and not 
 one farthing is ever wafted by the kirk-fef- 
 fions, on any pretence. But in England, there 
 is nothing to be done without a feaft. If 
 the parifh-officers will feaft, it is reafonable 
 at leaft that they fliould confine their bill of 
 fare to the rate of that of the work-houfes 
 jthey regulate. 
 
 Cum fueris Rama Romano vivito more. 
 
 The principal hofpitals in Edinburgh are, 
 
 Herriot's Hofpital, Watfon's Hofpital, the 
 
 Charity Work-houfe, the Infirmary, the 
 
 U 4 Mer-*
 
 C 3 12 ) 
 
 Merchants Hofpital, the Trades Maiden 
 Hofpital, the Orphan Hofpital, and the Tri- 
 nity Hofpital. 
 
 Herriot's Hofpital, fo called from the foun- 
 der of it, a goldfmith in Edinburgh, is a mag- 
 nificent fabric, which was begun to be raifed 
 in July 1628, and was finifhed in the year 
 1650, at an expence of upwards of 30,000!. 
 It was opened for the reception of the 
 fons of burgeffes, and thirty boys admit- 
 ted into it on the nth of April, 1659. From 
 time to time this number has been increafed, 
 till it is now upwards of an hundred. The 
 revenues of this hofpital amount to about 
 iSool. in real eilate. Here the boys are in- 
 ftructed in reading, writing, arithmetick, and 
 the Latin tongue. Their appearance is de- 
 cent, and their manners are generally void of 
 reproach. The profperous ftate, both of the 
 boys and the funds belonging to the hofpital, 
 is chiefly to be attributed to the truly pater- 
 nal care and attention which are beftowed 
 en its affairs by the governors. 
 
 Wation's
 
 Watfon's Hofpital was instituted for the 
 maintenance and education of the offspring of 
 decayed merchants, and for boys the children 
 or grand-children of decayed merchants, in 
 Edinburgh. The founder, George Watfon, 
 was himfelf defcended from progenitors, who 
 had long been merchants in that city. Upon 
 his death, which happened in April, 1723, he 
 bequeathed to this chanty all his fortune, 
 which confided of 12,000!. At prefent up- 
 wards of fixty boys are maintained and edu- 
 cated in this afyluni. Thefe, as well as the 
 youth in Herriot's Hofpital, are treated with 
 all due attention. The funds of this hof- 
 pital are vefted in truft with the Merchants 
 Company of Edinburgh. This is a good, 
 fpacious and regular building, but far infe- 
 rior to Herriot's, which, {landing to the fouth- 
 weft of the caftle, in a noble fituation, pre- 
 fents to the eye of the beholder a grand ap- 
 pearance. It is the fineft and mofl regular 
 fpecimen which Inigo Jones, whom James 
 
 VI. of
 
 ( 3H ) 
 
 VI. of Scotland brought over from Den- 
 mark, has left us of his Gothic manner, and 
 far exceeds any thing of that kind to be feen 
 in England. 
 
 The Chanty Work-houfe of Edinburgh 
 was built A. D. 1743, theexpence being de- 
 frayed by a voluntary fubfcription or collec- 
 tion made among the different focieties or 
 companies, and alfo among individuals in 
 the place -, and the houfe was opened for the 
 reception of the poor that fame year, at mid- 
 fummer. The poor are employed in fuch 
 pieces of labour as they are befl fitted for, and 
 are allowed two-pence out of every (hilling 
 they earn. The government of the houfe is 
 veiled in ninety-fix perfons, who meet quar- 
 terly 5 but its ordinary affairs are under the 
 direction of fifteen managers, who meet 
 weekly. There is a treafurer, chaplain, furr 
 geon, and other officers. 
 
 The Royal Infirmary is another noble in- 
 ftitution in Edinburgh, reared by the hand 
 of charity, for relieving the difeafes of thofe 
 
 who
 
 who are unable to purchafe comfort and a& 
 fiftance. The revenues of this houfc, raifed 
 originally by voluntary contribution, and 
 from time to time augmented by occafional 
 donations, are very confiderable, and the 
 number of patients equally fo. The fabric 
 confiUs of a body, and two wings, all of them 
 full three flories high - y and the whole is laid 
 out in a judicious and commodious manner. 
 It is under admirable management, and equally 
 contributes to the relief of the afflicled poor, 
 and the 1 advancement of medical knowledge. 
 T\e Merchants Maiden Hofpital is a cha- 
 ritable foundation, eftablifhed in the end of 
 the laft century by voluntary fubfcription, to 
 which the Company of Merchants in Edin- 
 burgh, and Mrs. Mary Erfkine, a widow- 
 gentlewoman, lent particular afllftance. It 
 is deftined for the maintenance and educa- 
 tion of young girls, daughters of the mer- 
 chant burgeiTes in Edinburgh. The governors 
 were elecled into a body-corporate by act of 
 parliament, in the year 1707. At prefent, 
 
 feventy
 
 feventy girls or upwards, are maintained by 
 this inftitution. The annual revenue is 
 about 1,350!. 
 
 The Trades Maiden Hofpital is another 
 charitable inftitution, fomewhat fimilar to 
 that juft defcribed. The incorporations of 
 Edinburgh, excited by the good example of 
 the Company of Merchants, became defirous 
 to eftablifh, for the daughters of decayed 
 members, a fimilar foundation. Accordingly, 
 fifty girls are maintained in this houfe. The 
 revenues amount to about 6ool. a year. 
 
 The Trinity Hofpital was founded by 
 Mary of Gueldres, confort of King James II. 
 and amply endowed. At the Reformation 
 it fuffered in the common ruin of Popifh mo- 
 numents : but it was again reflored by the 
 care of the magiftrates and town-council. 
 It was deftined for the fupport of decayed 
 burgefTes of Edinburgh, their wives, and un^ 
 married children not under fifty years of age. 
 The prefent funds are a real eftate in lands 
 and houfes, aljout 762!. and 5,500!. lent out
 
 ( 3'7 ) 
 
 in bonds at 4 per cent. The town-council 
 of Edinburgh, ordinary and extraordinary, 
 are governors of this hofpital. 
 
 The Univerfity of Paris, founded at an 
 early period, has been long reputed, and not 
 improperly called the mother of all others : 
 for, after the model of this, mod of the uni- 
 verfities in Europe were eftablifhed. The 
 firft univerfity founded in Scotland, was that 
 of St. Andrews, A.D. 1412. The circum- 
 flances of Edinburgh not being creeled into 
 an epifcopal fee till long after the Reforma- 
 tion, and that it was unufual, if not unpre- 
 cedented, to have univerfities creeled any 
 where but in metropolitan cities, was perhaps 
 the reafon why no college was eftablifned at 
 Edinburgh during the times of Popery. It 
 was not, however, deftitute of feminaries of 
 learning : in the convent of Gray Friars, in- 
 flituted by James I. divinity and philofophy 
 were taught by eminent mailers, till the Re- 
 formation. 
 
 Uni-
 
 Univerfities were originally bodies cor- 
 porate : and, as eccleliaftical corporations 
 could hold and purchafe property, and fue 
 and be fued, not only the profeflbrs, but the 
 fludents alfo, were themfelves of the body- 
 corporate ; over which its diltinguifhed offi- 
 cers poifefTed an ample jurifdic~lion, extend- 
 ing to all civil cafes, and to fuch criminal 
 ones, as were not of a capital nature. 
 
 The chancellor Was the fupreme magif- 
 trate in moll univernties. This office was 
 formerly held by the biihop of the diocefe, 
 who preiided in the general councils of the 
 univerfity, and exercifed over it a vifitorial 
 authority. The officer next in rank to the 
 chancellor was the rector, chofen annually 
 by the whole members of the univerfity. 
 
 Popery, and the inflitutions belonging to 
 it, whether founded for the propagation of 
 piety and learning, or from charitable mo- 
 tives, fell in one common ruin. The demo- 
 lition of the public edifices gratified the bar- 
 barous zeal of the reformers, and the fpoils 
 
 of
 
 of the revenues their avarice. On the efta- 
 blifliment of the Reformation, the citizens, 
 accordingly, made loud complaint of the in- 
 creafmg number of poor, and the ruinous ftate 
 of fchools. To fatisfy and flop their juft cla- 
 mours, Queen Mary beftowed upon them all 
 the houfes belonging to any of the religious 
 foundations in Edinburgh, with the lands, 
 and other revenues appertaining to them, in 
 any part of the kingdom. This grant was 
 confirmed by James VI. who alfo beftowed 
 on them the privilege of creeling fchools and 
 colleges, for the propagation of fcience, and 
 of applying the funds beftowed on them by 
 his mother, Queen Mary, to the building of 
 houfes for the accommodation of profefTors 
 and ftudents. All the grants made by James 
 VI. in favour of the univerfity, were ratified 
 by parliament ; and all immunities and pri- 
 vileges beftowed upon it, that were enjoyed 
 by any college in the kingdom. The town- 
 council of Edinburgh, the abfolute patrons 
 and governors of this univerfity, cannot only 
 
 infti-
 
 ( 3 20 ) 
 
 inftitute new profeflbrfhips, and elect pro- 
 feffors, but depofe them alfo; the forma- 
 lity, but not the juftice of their proceed- 
 ings, being liable to review, 
 
 There never was in the Univerfity of Edin- 
 burgh an officer fimilar to that of Chancellor 
 in other univerfities, which is commonly be- 
 frowed by the profeffors on fome nobleman of 
 dirtinction, who is a patron of letters, by 
 way of compliment. There was, however, 
 in the College of Edinburgh, a Rector ; but 
 that magiftrate by no means enjoyed the ex- 
 tenfive jurifdiction annexed to the office in 
 other univerfities. At the Reiteration, the 
 itudents at the Univerfity of Edinburgh ap- 
 pear to have been much tainted with the 
 fanatic principles of the covenanters : but 
 fince the reign of William, all difputes of the 
 religious kind have ceafed, and the fole object 
 of conteft and emulation is advancement in 
 knowledge. Cherifhed by the munificence 
 of her fovereign, and by the faithful care 
 and attention of the magistrates of Edin- 
 burgh, the univerfity has been daily be- 
 coming
 
 ( 3 21 ) 
 
 coming a more extenfive feminary of learn- 
 ing. New profefTorfhips have been infti- 
 tuted, as men of eminence appeared qua- 
 lified to inftruct youth in the different 
 branches of fcience, and in the faculty of 
 medicine. From fome titular profeflbrs, with- 
 out lectures or frudents, Edinburgh has rifen 
 to be perhaps the firft medical fchool in Eu- 
 rope. The number of fcholars, in the dif- 
 ferent profeffions, or who are fludying phi- 
 lofophy and languages, annually reforting to 
 this feminary of learning, have of late 
 amounted to a thoufand, of whom about four 
 hundred are purfuing the fludy of medicine. 
 
 The different profefTors are clafTed into 
 four faculties, thofe of theology, law, medi- 
 cine, and arts. 
 
 There is alfo at Edinburgh a grammar- 
 fchool, commonly called the High School. 
 It has gone through many changes and revo- 
 lutions 5 but is, at this prefent time, a moil 
 refpeftable feminary of learning. The build- 
 ing is extenfive and good, being in length,. 
 
 X from
 
 from fouth to north, one hundred and twenty 
 feet, and in breadth from thirty- fix to thirty- 
 eight, and the whole furroundedwith walls. 
 With refpect to what is of moft importance 
 in the Scotch metropolis, the ftate of fociety 
 and manners, they may be confidered under 
 the different particulars by which they feem 
 to be moft materially influenced. Thefe are, 
 firft, the perfons that refort to it. Secondly, 
 the courts of jufEce. Thirdly, the uni- 
 verfity. And Fourthly, the ftate of religion. 
 People come to Edinburgh on three dif- 
 ferent accounts : bufmefs, amufement, and 
 education. The character of men of bu- 
 finefs, whofe immediate object is gain, and 
 the advancement of their fortune, is, in all 
 countries, nearly the fame, and varied only 
 by perfonal character. It may be obferved, 
 that, as the offices of drudgery and of labour, 
 that require not any fkill, are generally per- 
 formed in London by Irifhmen, and Welch 
 people of both fexes ; fo all fuch inferior de- 
 partments are filled in Edinburgh by High- 
 landers.
 
 ( 3 2 3 ) 
 
 landers. The rifmg generation acquire more 
 enlarged views than their fathers, and ilrike 
 into other paths of life : fo that there is a 
 conftant influx of ftout healthy men from 
 the mountainous country into Edinburgh, 
 as well as into other cities of note in Scot- 
 land, to fupply the places of porters, barrow- 
 men, chairmen, and fuch like. It is alfo 
 Highlanders, chiefly, that compofe the city- 
 guard of Edinburgh, The refort of High- 
 landers to the Scottifh metropolis is fo great, 
 that there is a chapel, where divine fervice 
 is performed in the Erfe language. The 
 Highlanders naturally afibciate with one 
 another, and live chiefly together, as a dif- 
 ferent people from the Lowlanders, which 
 indeed they are. Their children are taught 
 the Erfe language, in the fame manner that 
 the children of the Jews are taught Hebrew, 
 juft as in London. 
 
 It has always been cuflomary for genteel 
 
 families in Scotland, to live a good deal in 
 
 Edinburgh, not only for the pleafure of fo- 
 
 ciety and amufement, but for the education 
 
 X 2 of
 
 ( 3 2 4 ) 
 
 of their children, both males and females* 
 This practice grows every day more and 
 more frequent j and the fame of the uni- 
 verlity, and other fchools, the elegance and 
 accommodation of the place, the public di- 
 verfions, and the expence of living not yet 
 fo high as in London, invite to Edinburgh 
 many families of moderate fortune from the 
 northern counties of England, to whom, be- 
 fides other circumftanees, it is not a little 
 recommended by vicinity of fituation. The 
 proportion of gentlemen and ladies, to the 
 trading and manufacturing part of the in- 
 habitants, is, on thefe accounts, greater in 
 Edinburgh, though it wants the advantage 
 of a court, than in moil other towns of 
 equal extent in Europe. 
 
 It may appear, perhaps, doubtful, whe- 
 ther this proportion be increafed or dimi- 
 nilhed, by the great multitude of lawyers 
 that refide, and indeed, in fome meafure, 
 give the tone to the manners of the Scotch 
 metropolis. There is nothing in Edinburgh 
 
 o
 
 of equal dignity and importance to the -Court 
 of Seffion, nor any profefllon fo much fol- 
 lowed as that of the law. The lawyers, in 
 fhort, are the principal people in that city ; 
 and the bar is there the grand ladder of am- 
 bition. Hence, among the young men par- 
 ticularly, there Is a difputatious dogmatifm 
 and captious petulance, which to a well- 
 bred ftranger appears highly difgufung : but 
 hence, too, a certain argumentative acute- 
 nefs, which we no where find fo generally 
 diffufed. 
 
 But this logical acutenefs, and flrong paf- 
 fion for difplaying it, is, no doubt ? to be 
 afcribed, in part, to that fpirit of philofophy, 
 which has been excited by the profeflbrs of 
 the univerfity, and certain individuals, inha- 
 bitants of Edinburgh, particularly the cele- 
 brated David Hume, fince whofe days ew.y 
 young man of education and genius is a me- 
 taphyfician. The two branches of fcience 
 that are ftudied with the greateft ardour in 
 Edinburgh, arc metaphyfics and medicine : 
 X the
 
 ( 326 ) 
 
 the firft comprehending, or at leaft running 
 into moral philofophy and logic : the fecond, 
 being connected with natural hiflory and 
 philoiophy, particularly anatomy and che- 
 miftry. The fludy of chemiftry, raifed to 
 eminence and diftindlion by the iluftrious 
 Doctors Cullen and Black, became, fome years 
 ago, fo fafhionable among the lawyers, and 
 other gentlemen in Edinburgh, that many of 
 them attendedthe chemical lectures and ex- 
 periments, as regularly as the ftudents. It was 
 the natural fagacity, ardour, and good fenfe 
 of the anatomiil Doctor Monro, the father 
 of the -prefent Monro, that firft brought 
 Edinburgh into repute, as a phyfical fchool. 
 He has been followed by men who have im- 
 proved, not only medicine, but fcience in 
 general : who have been an honour to their 
 country, and to human nature. 
 
 The names of Smith, Robertfon, Black, 
 Ferguflbn, Cullen, Monro, Gregory, and 
 other Edinburgenfes, diftinguifhed by their 
 writings, are well known. J mail only ob- 
 
 ferve
 
 ( 3 2 7 ) 
 
 ferve here, that there are fome among the 
 profefTors who have not yet made a figure 
 as authors, who by thofe who know them 
 beft, and are competent judges, are confidered 
 of equal rank with thofe who have. Mr. Du- 
 gald Stewart, profefTor of moral philofophy, 
 and Mr. J. Playfair, profeflbr of mathema- 
 tics, excell in every branch of literature and 
 fcience, know how to appreciate each, trace 
 them to their firfl principles, and view them 
 as connected together, and forming one 
 whole. Such men are well fitted to raifethe 
 views of the mere mathematician and dealer 
 in folitary and unconnected experiments to 
 the nature and the relations of general truth 
 or knowledge, and to temper the aiiy eleva- 
 tions of the unfubftantial metaphyfician, by 
 frequently checking him in his flights, and 
 calling back his attention to the objects of 
 fenfe, from which, or, at leafl, by means of 
 which, our moft abftracted ideas are origi- 
 nally derived. 
 
 X 4 The
 
 The grand incentive to thofe admirable 
 efforts that are made by the profeflbrs of 
 Edinburgh, for the inftru&ion of youth, and 
 advancement of knowledge, is neceffity. 
 Their falaries are, on the whole, Lnfignifi can t : 
 they depend chiefly on the fees given by their 
 pupils. The ftudents here, as at the other 
 univerfities in Scotland, are called upon to 
 give an account of the lectures or leffons 
 they receive in the public clafs, in the fame 
 manner that th6 fcholars are examined at 
 Weilminfter, or other fchools. Thus the 
 induftry of the young gentlemen is excited by 
 a principle of honour and ambition. In 
 the French univerfities, particularly the two 
 moft celebrated, thofe of Paris and Douay, 
 it is the cuflofh for the ftudents to give an 
 account of the iedlures of the profefibrs in 
 writing. This practice is excellently calcu- 
 lated to fix attention, to improve memory, 
 and to ftrengthen the habit of reafoning, and 
 referring, in the way of analylis, different 
 particulars to general heads or principles. 
 
 In
 
 ( 3 2 9 ) 
 
 In moft of the eludes, this might be adopted 
 by the profeifors of Edinburgh, without in- 
 terfering with any of thofe other practices by 
 which their univerfity has rifen to its pre- 
 fent celebrity. 
 
 As the minifters of Edinburgh are chofen 
 by the town-council, who are inclined, for 
 the moft part, to confult the humours of the 
 people, the clergy may be confidered rather in 
 the light of indexes, or fymptoms, than as 
 influencing, in any material degree, the fen- 
 timents and manners of their hearers. On 
 all extraordinary occafions, however, the 
 clergy, who are in general well refpecled by 
 the people, are of confequence. Ever fmce 
 the days of the congregation^ there has been a 
 great party in Scotland, who fludy to raife 
 the ecclefiaftical above the civil power, in all 
 matters that bear the moil diftant relation to 
 the church. They contend, not only that 
 the people have a right of chufing their own 
 fpiritual parlors, but alfo, that to them be- 
 longs the right of difpofing of thofe tem- 
 poralities
 
 ( 33 ) 
 
 poralities which had been afligned, in times 
 of popery, by lay patrons, for the mainte- 
 nance of the clergy, and for the falvation of 
 both their anceftors and their pofterity. 
 This is the grand pomum eridos, the main fub- 
 ject of divilion in the Scottifh ecclefiaftical 
 courts, and thejhibboktb, by which the zea- 
 lots for what they call the rights of Chrift, 
 try if the root of the matter be within their 
 minifters. Let a man be avaricious, fevere 
 in his manners, unjuft in his dealings ; let 
 him be malignant, earthly, fenfual, devilifh ; 
 nay, let him be gaudy in his apparel, and 
 even gallant to the ladies, yet fhall zeal 
 for the rights of the Chriftian people co- 
 ver the multitude of all thofe fins, and 
 raife the facred fmner to the very fummit of 
 popular promotion. On the other hand, 
 let a candidate for an ecclefiaftical benefice be 
 generous, affable, andjuft j be he kindly af- 
 fectioned, heavenly-minded, and inoffenfive 
 in the whole of his conduct; nay, be he 
 humble, and even floyenly in his attire, and 
 
 an
 
 an open rebuker, like the feel: of the Seceders* 
 of promifcuous dancing ; yet if he maintain 
 the civil rights of lay patrons, he is not deem- 
 ed a fit perfon to take the charge of fouls. 
 
 This doctrine of the rights of the Chriftian 
 people, to difpofe of the patrimony of the 
 church, is not a little dangerous to the civil 
 government. Were the people permitted to 
 govern the church, they would go on with 
 their encroachments, and the days of the 
 Covenant would be renewed. For, it is 
 ftrongly imprefled on the minds of all fana- 
 tics, that thcfajnts alone have a right to in- 
 herit the earth : and a pretext can never be 
 wanting for controlling the affairs of this 
 
 world, 
 
 The Seceders, who are very numerous, are religionWtj 
 who broke off about fifty years ago from the communion of 
 the church, on account of various corruptions that had crept 
 into her, but chiefly becaufe the eftabliflied clergy maintain- 
 ed, or at lead acquiefced in lay-patronage, and neglc&ed to 
 renew the covenant. The Seceders allow men to dance whh 
 men, and women to dance with women ; but for men to 
 dance with women, which they call fromifcueuf dancing, they 
 oU to b: a g reat abomination.
 
 ( 332 ) 
 
 world, to thofe who imagine themfelves to be 
 pofTefTed of the exclufive favour of Heaven. 
 The magiftrates of boroughs in Scotland 
 have frequent occafion to obferve the ftrong 
 difpofition of the popular clergy to take the 
 trouble, not only of conducting fpiritual, 
 but alfo temporal affairs. A magiftrate of 
 Edinburgh, reflecting on this pragmatical 
 turn in a clergyman, faid, lf I ventured my 
 f< life in a ftorm to bring him acrofs the 
 <c Frith, and I would now venture it, a fe- ' 
 " cond time, to fet him back again." 
 
 During a full century, there has exifted 
 in Scotland a feel, partly religious and part- 
 ly political, the members of which are vul- 
 garly diftinguifhed by the name of Jacobites. 
 It exhibits a refemblance, in miniature, of 
 that felect nation, the Jews, who, buffeted 
 and fpurned by all people and languages on 
 the face of the earth, perfifl inflexibly in the 
 doctrines of their fathers. At the Revolu- 
 tion in 1688, King William, it is faid, made 
 an offer to the Scotch prelates, of fupporting 
 
 fipif*
 
 ( 333 ) 
 
 Eplfcopacy in Scotland, on condition that 
 they would own and fupport his right to the 
 crown. ce Full of heavenly fluff " and endued 
 with amoft " plentiful lack" of worldly wif- 
 dom, they refufed to clofe with his propofaL 
 Prefbytery, of courfe, was eftablifhed, and 
 all of the Epifcopal perfuafion degraded to 
 the rank of fectaries, in which they have 
 fmce remained. 
 
 For fixty years after this period, they 
 formed a ftrong and refpedtable party in the 
 north 3 frequent attempts to reflore the ex- 
 iled Stuarts, fupporting their fpirits, and in- 
 fpiring them with hopes of once more gaining 
 the mattery. The romantic and moft ruin- 
 ous adventure of Charles Edward, in 1745, 
 gave the finishing blow to their political im- 
 portance. Even as a religious fociety, they 
 1 have been terribly lopped and thinned, by 
 the introduction of certain religious adven- 
 turers, called Qualified Epifcopal Clergymen, 
 though very unjuftly, as belonging to no 
 bifhopric. 
 
 Yet
 
 ( 334 ) 
 
 Yet even thus extenuated, and verging 
 fwiftly towards annihilation, they preferve* 
 with no fmall felf-importance and fanciful 
 dignity^ the form of a national church. 
 Though they " do not now thunder in the 
 capitol, they hold their little fenate at Utica, 
 and rail at Ccrfar" Their bifhops are chofen 
 and confecrated, if not with all the pride, 
 pomp, and circumftance of glorious prelacy^ 
 at leaft with the imitation thereof ; and the 
 eleclion of a Pope is not attended with more 
 intrigue and cabal. Thofe venerable fathers 
 lately ftept forth a little to the public view, 
 by imparting a portion of their apoftolic au- 
 thority to Do6lor Seabury, an American cler- 
 gyman. One of thenii on that occafion, 
 publifhed a fermon, which, in the prefent 
 period of liberality and extended fcience, 
 mull appear as a curious remain of that fec- 
 tarian fpirit which prevailed in the laft cen- 
 tury. They find great confolation in liken- 
 ing their ftate to that of the primitive church, 
 unconnected with political fociety, and inde- 
 pendent
 
 ( 335 ) 
 
 pendent of the powers of this world ; and 
 though the refembling features between thefe 
 be indeed very few and faint, yet uninformed 
 and credulous minds readily difcover a fimili- 
 tude, and the preachers, who by that craft have 
 their living, fail not to illuftrate and enforce 
 the do6lrine. Whether fuch a metaphyfical 
 fource of comfort will long preferve the party 
 in exiftence, can only be matter of conjec- 
 ture. To determine the progrefs and pe- 
 riods of religious opinion, philofophy exerts 
 her powers in vain. 
 
 It may not, perhaps, bethought verycha- 
 racteriftical of Edinburgh to obferve, that 
 there is a variety of clubs among the men 
 in which hard drinking is ftili kept up, 
 though not to fuch excefs as formerly ; and 
 that the women, efpecially the younger ones, 
 are not fo attentive to domeftic matters, as 
 their grand-mothers, and much given to 
 {trolling in the ftreets. 
 
 The people of Edinburgh, as well as the 
 Scotch nation in general, are commonly faid 
 
 to
 
 ( 336 ) 
 
 to poflefs great prefence of mind, as well as 
 great refolutionin fituations of difficulty and 
 danger. Even tumultuous aflemblies, or 
 mobs, it is remarked, have often conduced 
 their defigns with great deliberation, as well 
 as perfeverance. A finking example of this 
 occurred in 1736, in the murder of Captain 
 Porteous, commandant of the city-guard. 
 The popular difcontents with the Union 
 were not allayed, when the impofition of new 
 taxes, particularly the malt-tax, excited 
 throughout Scotland a general difTatisfaftion, 
 and almoft a fpirit of oppontion to Govern- 
 ment. The new taxes were to be enforced, 
 and the authority of the legiflature main- 
 tained, by the execution of a daring fmuggler 
 who had fignalized his boldnefs in fetting 
 the laws at defiance. Orders were given to 
 Captain Porteous to employ, if necefTary, the 
 force committed to his care, in quelling a 
 threatened infurreclion in favour of the con- 
 demned prifoner. A fhower of ftones, bro- 
 ken glaiTes, and other mnTile weapons dif- 
 
 charged
 
 ( 337 ) 
 
 charged againft the officers of juftice, at the 
 common place of execution, in the Grafs- 
 Ma>ket } announced the premeditated and pre- 
 dicled onfet. The foldiers having repeatedly 
 fired their pieces, charged only with powder, 
 to no purpofe, the Captain of the guard or- 
 dered them at laft to charge with bullet. 
 Six men of the mob were killed, and about 
 double of that number wounded. The Cap- 
 tain, profecuted by the City of Edinburgh, 
 and condemned by a jury of enraged citizens 
 to death, being naturally confidered as a fuf- 
 ferer in the caufe of Government, obtained 
 a reprieve from Queen Caroline, who was at 
 the head of the Regency, during the abfence 
 of George II. her royal confort, in his pa- 
 ternal dominions in Germany. 
 
 But the Edinburghers, fired with natio- 
 nal jealoufy and refentment, confidered the 
 royal exercife of mercy as an infult to 
 the dignity of the Scottifh metropolis, and 
 an injury to the manes of the ilain. An 
 armed rabble, on the night before the day 
 fixed for the execution of Porteous, fur- 
 Y prized
 
 ( 338 ) 
 
 prized and difarmed the town-guard, feized 
 the gates of the city for preventing the ad- 
 miffion of the troops quartered in the fub- 
 urbs, fet fire to the prifon doors, and fetting 
 loofe the other prifoners, dragged Captain 
 Porteous to the Grafs -Market, hung him up 
 on a dyer's pon\ and difperfed themfelves, in 
 perfect tranquillity, to their refpeclive places 
 of refidence. 
 
 The principal authors of this enormous 
 outrage were concealed from the vengeful en- 
 quiries of Government, by the favour of 
 their fellow-citizens j and even they who 
 were mofl operative in carrying the threats 
 of the populace into execution, found, for a 
 while, that countenance from thofe who were 
 aflociated with them in purpofe, though not 
 in actions, which all partakers in guilt are 
 wont to fhew to one another, while the fury 
 that urged them to the commiffion of crimes 
 remains unabated. But the tide of popular 
 rage fublided, with the hoftile fearches of 
 Government, and Captain Porteous began 
 
 to
 
 ( 339 ) 
 
 to appear in the light of an unfortunate of- 
 ficer, who, confidering himfelf under an oblir 
 gation to fupport the officers of juftice, and 
 to fave his men from the increafmg and alar- 
 ming fury of the multitude, yielded with re- 
 luclance to the neceffity of preventing the 
 eftecls of confirmed revolt and rebellion, by 
 a timely example of that danger which at- 
 tended an open refinance of eftablifred go- 
 vernment. The rafh men who did the deed, 
 excluded from the fympathy and approba- 
 tion of their former abettors, proved how 
 natural it is for mankind to judge of them- 
 felves, according to the opinions entertained 
 of them by others, and by what powerful 
 bands the Father of mankind has retrained 
 them from the (bedding of blood. They now 
 felt a degree of frame and remorfe, and fought 
 to efcape the eyes of their acquaintance, by 
 travelling into foreign parts, or in the ob- 
 fcurity of the Englifr metropolis. Some of 
 thefe unhappy men, with their own hands, 
 put an end to their exigence, and others took 
 Y 2 (belter,
 
 fhelter, where they ought, in repentance 
 and religious devotion. But he, who per- 
 formed the laft office of the executioner, 
 endeavoured, with various fuccefs, to brave 
 the rebukes of the judge within, by afToci- 
 ating with buffoons and vagabonds, who, by 
 a (mattering of learning, and common-place 
 fophifms and jokes, endeavoured to confound 
 all diftincYions between vice and virtue. He 
 was fubmiflive even to abject humiliation to 
 his fr.periors j but gave vent to the! natural 
 turbulence of his mind in infolence towards 
 the poor and helplefs. Having daringly 
 violated the laws of fociety, he attached him- 
 felf chiefly to a man who, at one period of his 
 life, it is faid, had exercifed the vocation of a 
 robber -, and he was obferved to delight, on 
 all occafions, in fomenting difcord, aggravat- 
 ing what was gloomy, and predicting what was 
 dreadful. In his gait he was fometimes quick, 
 fouietimes flow. Now he would give vent to 
 the inward frorm that raged in hisbreaft, by 
 bellowing with great vociferation againft any 
 
 perfoii
 
 ( 34' ) 
 
 perfon he deemed either not capable, or not 
 inclined to retort hisabufe : and now he would 
 be funk in profound melancholy and filence- 
 His manner, in fhort, was unequal and vio- 
 lent, and there was fomething in his coun- 
 tenance, during the whole courfe of his life, 
 which, had one been fearching for an execu- 
 tioner amongft a thoufand bye-ftanders, 
 wpuld have faid, at once, there is the man ! 
 
 Such are the obfervations that have been 
 made on the character and the fate of the 
 men who were moft actively concerned in the 
 murder of Captain JPorteous j whofe ftory, 
 though not fo interefting as that of thofe 
 who have aflaffinated princes and kings, is 
 yet, in a moral view, equally inftructive : 
 fince it fhews that there is no change of fitUr 
 ation or place, that not the chium ardor pra- 
 va jubtntium, nor all the opiates of either 
 fceptical or convivial fociety, can fecure the 
 man who has unfortunately been guilty of 
 blood, from the flings of confcience, that 
 impartial reviewer, and inexorable judge of 
 human thoughts, words, and actions. Hay? 
 Y 3 ing
 
 ( 342 ) 
 
 ing fpent a week at Edinburgh, where we 
 were entertained with great elegance, as well 
 as hofpitality, we leave it on 
 
 Friday, the jth of Auguft, and go to 
 Kelfo. Pafs through Dalkeith, where the 
 Duke of Buccleugh has an elegant feat, and 
 where there is a great deal of fine old tim- 
 ber. This being a very bad day, we had very 
 little opportunity of feeing the country 
 round us. As far as I could difcern, the 
 land, for eight miles from Edinburgh, feems 
 to be well cultivated. Beyond this difiance, 
 for a courfe of twenty-five miles, till you 
 get near Kelfo, the country around is moun- 
 tainous, barren, and thinly inhabited. 
 
 Kelfo is, without exception, the moil beau- 
 tiful fpot I have feen in Scotland. It is a 
 well-built little town, fituated on the banks 
 of the Tweed, over which is an elegant bridge, 
 juft below the conflux of the Teviot and 
 the Tweed. From this bridge there is a 
 moil beautiful view of the town, the Duke 
 of Roxburgh's elegant houfe, called Fleurs, 
 thofe of Sir James Duglafs, Sir James Prin-
 
 ( 343 ) 
 
 gle, Mr. Davifon, and feveral other modern 
 manfions. The country is well wooded, and 
 highly improved. This fcene is confiderably 
 enriched by the ruins of the old abbey, built 
 by David I. The diftant hills, particularly 
 the Elder- Hills, are taken into the view, and, 
 on the whole, as compleat a profpect is f ur- 
 niflied as I ever faw. 
 
 But, this is a miniature picture. For, a 
 fpace of two miles either way from this fpot, 
 brings you into an open country again 3 not 
 indeed without its beauties, but too naked 
 for the imagination : however, much pains 
 have been taken lately to cultivate this part 
 of the country, which produces a great quan- 
 tity of corn i many inclofures are alfo made 
 of thorn, but thofe hedges are not yet grown 
 high enough to afford fhelter. Here alfo 
 are numerous plantations, though only in an 
 infant ftate. In time, I fee nothing to pre- 
 vent the banks of the Tweed from becoming 
 as beautiful as the banks of the Thames. 
 
 Thurfday, the i ith of Anguft. Leave 
 
 Kelfo, and ride by the fide of the Tweed to 
 
 Y 4 Cold-
 
 ( 344 ) 
 
 Coldftream ; crofs an elegant bridge of five 
 arches, and enter England : and here it is 
 well worthy of remark, .that all the bridges 
 in Scotland are built with much more taile 
 
 * 
 
 and elegance, than any in England. The 
 flone of which they are generally constructed 
 is of a brown colour, and appears to be very 
 durable : indeed the latter quality feems to 
 be abfolutely necefTary, for all the rivers in 
 Scotland, as in all mountainous, countries, 
 are fubjecl to great floods, and run with vi- 
 olent rapidity, infomuch that fome of the 
 bridges have circular openings between each 
 arch, to difcharge the water when the. arches 
 are full. 
 
 Pafs Flouden Field. As I have given an ac- 
 count from Mr. Hume, of a celebrated engage- 
 ment, in which the Englifh were defeated, with 
 great ilaughter, by the Scots j fo I (hall here, 
 to fhew my impartiality, take occafion to in- 
 troduce, from the fame author, an action not 
 lefs famous, in which the Scots were routed, 
 with ftill heavier lofs, by the Englifii. 
 
 " The
 
 ( 345 ) 
 
 <c The King of Scotland, (James IV.) had 
 <c aflembled the whole force of his kingdom; 
 <c and having parTed the Tweed with a brave, 
 <l though a tumultuary army of about 
 cc 50,000 men, he ravaged thofe parts of 
 " Northumberland which lay neareft that 
 " river, and he employed himfelf in taking 
 " the caftles of Norham, Etal, Werke, Ford, 
 <c and other places of little importance. Lady 
 " Ford, being taken prifoner in her caftle, 
 " was prcfentcd to James, and fo gained ori 
 " the affeclions of that prince, that he wafted 
 " in pleafure the critical time, which, during 
 <{ the abfence of his enemy, he fhould have 
 " employed in pufhing his conquefts. His 
 <c troops, lying in a barren country, where 
 " they foon confumed all the provilions, be- 
 " gan to be pinched with hunger : and as 
 " the authority of the prince was feeble, and 
 " military difcipline, during that age, ex- 
 " tremely relaxed, many of them had ftolen 
 " from the camp, and retired homewards. 
 ." Meanwhile, the Earl of Surrey, having 
 
 " collected
 
 ( 346 ) 
 
 tc collected a force of 26,000 men, of which 
 <f 5,000 had been fent over from the king's 
 tc army in France, marched to the defence of 
 " the country, and approached the Scots, 
 <c who lay on fome high ground near the 
 " Hills of Cheviot. The River Till ran be- 
 " tween the armies, and prevented an en- 
 * gagement : Surrey therefore fent a herald 
 " to the Scotch camp, challenging the enemy 
 " todefcendinto the plain of Millfield, which 
 " lay towards the fouth ; and there, ap- 
 <c pointing a day for the combat, to try their 
 " valour on equal ground. As he received 
 ** no fatisfaclory anfwer, he made a feint 
 ct of marching towards Berwic ; as if he 
 " intended to enter into Scotland, to lay 
 <c wafte the borders, and cut off the provi- 
 < fions of the enemy. The Scotch army, in 
 " order to prevent his purpofe, put them- 
 ^ felves in motion ; and having fet fire to the 
 " huts in which they had quartered, they 
 " defcended from the hills. Surrey, taking 
 * c advantage of the fmoke, which was blown 
 
 " towards
 
 ( 347 ) 
 
 " towards him, and which concealed his 
 " movements, paffed the Till with his artil- 
 " lery and vanguard at the bridge of Twifel, 
 "and lent the reft of his army to feek a ford 
 " higher up the river. 
 
 " An engagement was now become inevi- 
 " table, and both fides prepared for it with 
 " tranquillity and order. The Englifli di- 
 " vided their army into two lines : Lord 
 " Howard led the main body of the firft line, 
 " Sir Edmond Howard the right wing, Sir 
 <c Marmaduke Conftable the left. The Earl 
 " of Surrey himfelf commanded the main 
 " body of the fecond line, Lord Dacres the 
 " right wing, Sir Edward Stanley the left. 
 " The front of the Scots prefented three di- 
 " vifions to the enemy : the middle was led 
 " by the King himfelf: the right by the Earl 
 " of Huntley, aflifted by Lord Hume : the 
 " left by the Earls of Lenox and Argyle. A 
 " fourth divifion under the Earl cf Bothwel 
 " made a body of referve. Huntley began 
 *' the battle 3 and after a iliarp conflict, put 
 
 IB
 
 ( 34? ) 
 
 " to flight the left wing of the Englifh, and 
 <* chaced them off the field : but on return- 
 " ing from the purfuit, he found the whole 
 " Scottifh army in great .diforder. The di- 
 ef vilion under Lenox and Argyle, elated with 
 " the fuccefs of the other wing, had broken 
 <c their ranks, and notwithstanding the re- 
 " monftrances and entreaties of La Motte, 
 " the French ambaffador, had rufhed head- 
 " long upon the enemy. Not only Sir Ed- 
 " mond Howard, at the head of his divifion, 
 " received them with great valour $ but 
 " Dacres, who commanded in the fecond line, 
 " wheeling about during the action, fell upon 
 " their rear, and put them to tb f e fword with- 
 " out refiftance. The divifion under James 
 " and that under Bothwel, animated by the 
 < valour of their leaders, flill made head 
 " againfl the Englifli, and throwing them- 
 " felves into a circle, protracted the action, 
 " till night feparated the combatants. The 
 " victory feemed yet uncertain, and the num- 
 " bers, that fell on each fide, were nearly 
 
 tc equal,
 
 ( 349 ) 
 
 c< equal, amounting to above 5,000 men : but 
 " the morning difcovered where the advan- 
 " tage lay. The Englifh had loft only per- 
 " fons of fmall note ; but the flower of the 
 " Scottifh nobility had fallen in battle, and 
 " their king himfelf, after the moft diligent 
 " enquiry, could no where be found. In 
 " fearching the field, the Englifti met with 
 " a dead body, which refembled him, and 
 " was arrayed in a fimilar habit ; and they 
 " put it in a leaden coffin, and fent it to 
 cc London. During fome time it was kept 
 " unburied ; becaufe James died under fen- 
 " tence of excommunication, on account of 
 " his confederacy with France, and his op- 
 " pofition to the holy fee. But upon Hen- 
 " ry's application, who pretended that that 
 tc prince had, in the inftant before his death, 
 44 difcovered figns of repentance, abfolutiori 
 " was given him, and his body was interred. 
 " The Scots, however, ftill afferted, that it 
 <f was not James's body, which was found 
 " on the field of battle, but that of one El- 
 
 <c phinfton,
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 *' phinfton, who had been arrayed in arms 
 " refembling their king's, in order to divide 
 " the attention of the Eiiglifh, and fhare the 
 " danger with his mafter. It was believed 
 " that James had been feen croffing the 
 " Tweed at Kelfo ; and fome imagined that 
 " he had been killed by the vaflals of Lord 
 " Hume, whom that nobleman had infti- 
 <c gated to commit fo enormous a crime. 
 <f But the populace entertained the opinion 
 ct that he was flill alive, and having fecretly 
 " gone in pilgrimage to the holy land, would 
 " foon return, and take poffeflion of the 
 " throne. This fond conceit was long en- 
 4c tertained among the Scots." 
 
 The mufical genius of Scotland expreffed 
 the moans of the nation in the deeply plain- 
 tive notes of The Flowers of the Foreft. On 
 the battle of Flouden, another ballad was 
 alfo compofed, of another ftrain, in praife of 
 thtfoitters (fhoe-makers) of Selkirk, and in 
 ridicule of the Earl of Hume. When the 
 Scottifh army advanced fouthward towards 
 
 the
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 the borders of England, a band of eighty 
 fouters joined the royal army, under the con- 
 duel of the town-clerk of Selkirk. They 
 fought with great bravery, and were moftly 
 cut off. A few who eicaped, found, on their 
 return, in the forefl of Lr^dy- Wood-Edge, 
 the wife of one of their brethren, lying dead, 
 and her child fucking her breaft. The 
 Town of Selkirk, from this circumflance, 
 obtained for their arms, a woman fitting up- 
 on a farcophagus, holding a child in her 
 arms ; in the back ground, a wood ; and, ori 
 the farcophagus, the arms of Scotland. 
 
 Millfield Plain, where the battle of Flouden 
 was fought, extends about five miles each 
 way, and is entirely furrounded by barren 
 mountains, the Cheviot Hills forming the 
 fouthern boundary. Pafs on to Woller- 
 haugh-head, a fmall poor town : from Wol- 
 ler to Alnwick, the road goes round the 
 Cheviot Hills, through a wild and unculti- 
 vated country. 
 
 At
 
 C 35* ) 
 
 At Alnwick is the Duke of Northumber- 
 land's Caflle, a very large pile of building, 
 in the fliape of an octagon, the inner court 
 forming a circle. In this part of the caflle 
 are the rooms for flate and bed-chambers* 
 The library is a large and elegant apart- 
 ment, and the chapel adjoining to it is fitted 
 up entirely in the Gothic flile, an humble 
 imitation of that order of architecture. 
 The chapel is lighted by a large window, 
 painted with great tafle : all the rooms 
 in the caftle, three of which are very fpa- 
 cious and elegant, are, like the chapel, fit- 
 ted in the Gothic flile. The fervants apart- 
 ments, and all the offices, are diflincl: from 
 the caftle, but all in the fame flile of archi- 
 tecture. On the battlements are a great 
 number of flatues of warriors, in various at- 
 titudes of defence, apparently as large as life, 
 which makes it appear as if an enemy was 
 florming it. On the right of the kmer gate- 
 way, is ilill to be feen a dungeon, with an 
 
 iron
 
 ( 353 ) 
 
 iron grate, the Gothic emblem of lawlefs will 
 and arbitrary power. 
 
 The grounds round Alnwick are very ex- 
 tenfive, reaching all the way to the fea, but 
 moft of the improvements are modern. Great 
 part of the caftle has been built, or rebuilt 
 by the prefent Duke. All the plantations 
 are very young : none of the trees feem to 
 bear the appearance of more than forty 
 years. 
 
 The town of Alnwick is not very exten- 
 five, but neat, and well built : fome of the 
 houfes are very antient, others modern and 
 elegant. The eaft and weft gates are very an- 
 tient, and towards the north, the Duke has 
 lately built an elegant gate -way, with a 
 handibme tower upon it, in the Gothic ftile. 
 This tower was intended to have bells placed 
 in it, but the ftructure was found to be too 
 flight. The church is a fpacious and ele- 
 gant building. 
 
 Were the Dukes of Northumberland, in 
 
 thefe peaceable times, like their neighbour 
 
 Z the
 
 ( 354 ) 
 
 the Duke of Bridgewater, to exercife the fame 
 ardour in the promotion of arts and com- 
 merce, which their anceftors, in turbulent 
 times, displayed in arms, Alnwick and the 
 adjacent country might be rendered as fa- 
 mous for manufactures as it was formerly 
 renowned for bloody battles. There is not 
 in any part of Britain, better wool than that 
 which is produced in the hilly tracts in the 
 fouth of Scotland, and the north of England, 
 This circumftance, with abundance of fuel, 
 and vicinity to the fea, is fufficient to prove 
 this pofition. 
 
 In the times bf the Heptarchy, before 
 the different kingdoms of which England 
 originally confifted, were united in one,* 
 that of Northumberland extended from the 
 Tweed to the Humber, and comprehended, 
 befides the county of that name, Cumber- 
 land, Weilmoreland, the whole of Yorkfhire, 
 
 Lancafhire, 
 
 * It is remarkable, that, at this moment, the Ifland of 
 Madagafcar is divided into feven diftinft kingdoms, each go- 
 verned by its own king, who enjoys his authority and title 
 by inheritance.
 
 ( 355 ) 
 
 Lancafhire, and the Bifhoprick of Durhanf. 
 The capital of this kingdom was York, a town 
 equally famous during the Roman, the Sax- 
 on, and the Norman aera. It is from this 
 laft period that we are enabled to account 
 for fome cuftoms that prevail among the in- 
 habitants, and for that particular dialect, 
 which d i ft ingui flies a Yorkfhireman and 
 Northumbrian, including under that name 
 the inhabitants of Weilmoreiand and Cum- 
 berland, from all others in this kingdom. 
 
 It is v/ell known, that the antient kingdom 
 of Northumberland was, for ages, the grand 
 fubjet of contention between the Saxons and 
 the Danes, and when thefe were at length ex- 
 pelled from England, between the Saxons and 
 the Norwegians. The firft Daniih expedition 
 of which we have any certain account, was 
 made by King Reynar Lodh'-ok, a prince 
 equally imprudent and unfortunate. He 
 was flain by Ella king of Northumberland ; 
 who in his turn was iiain by the fons of 
 Reynar, and was fuccccded by Ivar the Dane, 
 
 Z 2 who
 
 ( 356 ) 
 
 who fixed his refidence at York. On the 
 death of Ivar, the kingdom of Northumber- 
 land rqturned to the obedience of her former 
 lords, the kings of the Saxons. At length 
 King Athelftan gave it to Eric, who had been 
 expelled from his kingdom of Norway, fon 
 of Harold the fair-haired, appointing him 
 guardian of the northern coafts, againft the 
 incurfions of the Norwegians. 
 
 It was in the time of Eric that the famous 
 battle of Brunanburgh was fought by King 
 Athelllan, againft Conftantine king of Scot- 
 land, and Oiave, one of the kings of Ireland. 
 Athelftan received from his Norwegian allies 
 the moft powerful fupport on all occafions 
 of danger. The Norwegians, in the intereft 
 and fervice of King Athelftan were joined by 
 Egitt and Thorolf, two chiefs from Iceland. 
 Thorolf was killed, but Egitt, loaded with 
 the moft ample tokens of the royal favour of 
 Athelftan, returned to his native country. 
 Nor were thefe the onlv Icelandic adventu- 
 
 4 
 
 rers who vifited England, and paid their ho- 
 mage
 
 ( 357 ) 
 
 mage to her kings. It was a cuftom among 
 the Icelanders to travel as foldiers of for- 
 tune into foreign countries j to enquire into 
 the conftitution and manners of the nations 
 among whom they fojourned ; and to re- 
 port, on their return home, whatever they 
 deemed likely to improve the government of 
 Iceland. And hence, the laws of Iceland, 
 framed during the time of the republic, 
 contain or refer to many particulars that 
 throw not a little light on our own. Trial 
 by jury, for example, was adhered to in 
 Iceland, with ftill greater care than in Eng- 
 land i the nature of juries more fully dif- 
 played j and the duty of jurymen more ex- 
 actly defined. In Iceland, the number of 
 men of which juries confirmed, varied from 
 fix or feven even to an hundred, according 
 to the magnitude of the crime to be tried ; 
 and it was always in the power of the per- 
 fon accufed, to challenge not only any part, 
 but even the whole of the jury : fo great 
 Z was
 
 ( 358 ) 
 
 was the regard formerly paid in that remote 
 ifland to the natural rights of mankind ! 
 
 There is not, in the prefent period, 
 any court in Europe, the Ruffian not except- 
 ed, which expends fuch large fums on 
 the advancement of arts and fciences as 
 that of Denmark. His Daniih. Majefty, the 
 Prince Royal, and the great men who con- 
 duel the affairs of the kingdom, ftrongly 
 impreffed with the juft notion that great 
 light may be thrown on the prefent flate of 
 Denmark, as well as of other kingdoms, by 
 an accurate enquiry into the fettlements or 
 colonies of their anceflors, have given or- 
 ders for publifhing a collection of all the 
 Danifh Writers of the middle age.* For 
 this purpofe, the learned Jacob Langebeck 
 was fent, at his Majefty's expence, on a tour 
 
 through 
 
 * Of the Scriptores Rerum Danicarum, fix volumes in 
 folio are already printed ; among which is a. work by Snorro 
 Thurlfonj publifhed at the expence of his Royal Highnds 
 Prince Frederick, brother to the King, which illuftrates the 
 antient hiftory of Northumberland.
 
 ( 359 ) 
 
 through Sweden, and along the fiiores of 
 the Baltic ; and for the fame end, Grim 
 Jolmfon Thorkelyn, L.L.D. Profeflbr of 
 Antiquities of the Univerfity of Copenhagen, 
 and Keeper of the Privy Archives, is, at the 
 time of writing this, in England. This gen- 
 tleman, a native of Iceland, who was bred 
 to the profeflion of the law, has defervedly 
 gained the favour of his royal mailer ; and, 
 by the works which he has already publiihed, 
 an eftabliihed fame. It is to be hoped, that he 
 will give us a critical account of many of our 
 Englifli cuftoms, into which, in the courfe 
 of his tour, he has made very judicious en- 
 quiries. His account of the Daniiri inva- 
 fion of Northumberland is ready for being 
 printed : and he is, at prefent, engaged in 
 preparing for the prefs an Englifh tranfla- 
 tion of the Laws of the Republic of Ice- 
 land, with proper illuftrations, which will 
 undoubtedly afford much rational entertain- 
 ment to the antiquarian and the philofopher; 
 Z 4 and,
 
 ( 36 ) 
 
 and, perhaps, fome ufeful hints to legifla- 
 tors and ftatefmen. 
 
 Of the Danifh and Norwegian remains 
 jn the antient kingdom of Northumberland, 
 we have a very flriking inftance, in the ex- 
 traordinary care and attachment of the 
 Northumbrians and Yorkfhiremen to their 
 horfes. The Norwegians and Icelanders treat 
 their horfes not only with the utmoft care, 
 but with a degree of affection. It was in 
 conformity to the genius of his countrymen, 
 that John Erifchen, an Icelandic gentleman, 
 wrote a Treatife de Philippia Veterum> * 
 printed at Copenhagen, 1757. 
 
 The following are examples of words, the 
 fame in the Norwegian and Icelandic lan- 
 guage -, and in that of the low countries 
 in Scotland, and the northern counties in 
 England. 
 
 A gaify a foot path, or road, 
 
 An ark, a large chefl. 
 
 Aud> old. 
 
 A bairn, 
 
 * The love of the antients for their horfes.
 
 A bairn, a child. 
 
 Beefing with child/, e. gravid. 
 
 Blake, yellow, pale. 
 
 Capel) a horfe, a working horfe. 
 
 Elden, fuel for fire. 
 
 To elt, to knead. 
 
 To feat, to hide. 
 
 A frith, an eftuary or arm of the fea. 
 
 Fremd or J remit , far off, ftrange, or not 
 
 near a-kin. 
 
 To frifl, to truft for a time. 
 To gang, to walk. 
 To garre, to make. 
 A garth, a yard. 
 A gilder, a fnare. 
 A gimmer, a ewe lamb. 
 To graV or ^r^/, to cry. ' 
 A baujl, or hoft, a dry cough. 
 To lake, to play. 
 Z/rfW, urine. 
 Lat, (low, lazy. 
 To lear, to learn. 
 A />cr, a fack, or bag. 
 
 A quie, a heifer. 
 
 To
 
 ( 362 ) 
 
 To ram, to reach. 
 
 Kfarky a fhirt. 
 
 Saur dirt, enjaur pool, a (linking puddle, 
 
 To fparre, or fpeir, or Jpurre, to alk, 
 
 enquire. 
 
 Stark, ftiif, ftrong. 
 To thirl, to drill, to bore a hole. 
 Walling, boiling. 
 Wang, the fide. 
 
 From hiftory, as well as from fimilarityof 
 features, cuiloms, and language, it is evident 
 that the northern inhabitants of England, 
 and of the lowland Scots, were originally 
 the fame people ; being both defcended from 
 the nations on the fhores of the Baltic ; but 
 chiefly from the Danes and the Norwegians : 
 and the circumftance of their living now 
 under the fame government, cannot fail to re- 
 ilore their union, and to render it every day 
 more and more complete. 
 
 It appears that, in former times, much 
 emulation and great animofities prevailed be- 
 tween the people of England living on the 
 
 fouth
 
 ( 363 ) 
 
 fouth fide of the river Trent, and thofe liv- 
 ing on the north.* The famous Roger Af- 
 chem, who was preceptor to Queen Eliza- 
 beth, and was a North-Trentian, conde- 
 fcended to wiite a book to vindicate the 
 dignity of the northern counties in England 
 from the abufe of their foutiiern neighbours. 
 We are fomewhat at a lofs, at this day, 
 to account for the difputes, and even the 
 hoftilities, that prevailed a few centuries 
 ago, between the people on this fide and 
 beyond Trent. The time will come, when 
 we will in like manner wonder at the ani- 
 mofities that frill take place, in ibme de- 
 gree, among the vulgar, on this fide and 
 beyond the Tweed. 
 
 That the people of England and Scotland 
 may be (till more effectually united, I would 
 propofe, that in all the fheriffs courts in 
 Great Britain, trials Ihould be determined 
 
 by 
 
 * It is to the divided ftate of the country, in former times, 
 that we are to trace the practice of appointing certain officers 
 on this fide and beyond Trent.
 
 by juries : and that the Bifhop of Durham 
 fhould be the Diocefan of all the qualified 
 Epifcopalians in Scotland. It were alfo to 
 be wifhed, that the Royal Burghs were re- ^ 
 ftored to their original freedom of conftitu- 
 tion, by which the inhabitants enjoyed, as 
 they ought, the right of chufmg their own 
 magistrates, and demanding an account of 
 the common revenue or eftate. A Commit- 
 tee has been appointed by a great number of 
 the Royal Burghs, for the purpofe of urging 
 their juft claims at the tribunal of the na- 
 tion, and the bar of the public, where there 
 Is not a doubt, if they proceed with the 
 fame temper, prudence, and perfeverance 
 which have hitherto marked their conduct, 
 but they will meet with fuccefs. Farther 
 {till, it were to be wiihed, though not yet 
 to be expected, that the right of voting in 
 the election of reprefentatives in parliament 
 were extended, as in England, to all who 
 poflefs freeholds of forty fhillings annual 
 
 rent.
 
 ( 365 ) 
 
 rent. I fay not yet to be expected, becaufe, 
 it is not improbable, that this may one day 
 be effected by the progreflive and mutual 
 influence of induftry, wealth, and a fpirit of 
 liberty, which may break entails, fplit arif- 
 tocratical domains into a thoufand pieces, 
 and aflat the rights of freemen. If this 
 fhall not be the cafe, the political impor- 
 tance of the people of Scotland, inftead of 
 being increafed, muft be diminiflied j for 
 there is nothing human that is abfolutely fta- 
 tionary. But there is a fpirit in Scotland, at 
 the prefent moment, that prefages a bright- 
 er profpect, and which may repay to the 
 fifter kingdom, and that, perhaps, in a time 
 of need, the generous fire which was kin- 
 dled by her laws and examples. 
 
 At the fame time that the Anglo-Saxons 
 took pofleflion of England, and the Scots of 
 Caledonia, that is, the middle of the fifth 
 century, the Franks, eroding the Rhine, efta- 
 blifhed themfelves in France, the Burgun- 
 dians feized Burgundy, Savoy, and Dau- 
 
 phine ;
 
 ( 366 ) 
 
 phine ; the Goths, that divifion of Old Gaul 
 which was diflinguifhed by the name of 
 Aquitania ; the Hunni, the reft of Gaul, 
 Hungary, and other places j and the Van- 
 dals, Africa, Italy, and Rome itfelf. All 
 thefe nations poflefTed, at that time, fimilar 
 forms of government, and equal degrees 
 of freedom. But, it is in Great Britain 
 only, with the Low Countries, that any 
 lively vefliges of the freedom, introduced 
 by thofe barbarians, are now to be found. 
 France, the freed of all European countries, 
 maintained its civil liberties for a period of 
 eleven hundred years j but at laft funk into 
 flavery, the ufual fate of nations, towards 
 the end of the fifteenth century. Thefe 
 things naturally excite anxiety and alarm, 
 nd teach a lefTon of vigilance and cir- 
 cumfpeclion. 
 
 If any of the foregoing obfervations may 
 be deemed in any degree ufeful or inftruc- 
 tive, it will be matter of great fatisfa61ion to 
 the Author, whofe principal intention, in 
 
 taking
 
 ( 367 ) 
 
 taking the liberty of publifliing them, is, to 
 induce men of learning and genius, of pro- 
 perty and patriotic fpirit, to vifit a part of 
 this iiland, which has hitherto been too 
 much neglected, and where there is an ample 
 field for improvement. 
 
 Expanded and cultivated minds may, by 
 ocular demonftration, be convinced of the 
 truth of this aflertion : and while they are 
 preferving health by exercife, and receiving 
 pleafure from the beautiful and romantic 
 fcenery which will daily be prefented to their 
 view, they may derive the firft of all gratifi- 
 cations, that of giving additional liability 
 to the united kingdom of Great Britain, by 
 promoting agriculture, encouraging its ma- 
 nufactories and fifneries, and, by emanci- 
 pating a great part of the inhabitants of 
 this ifland from floth and idlenefs, make 
 them active and ufeful members of fociety. 
 
 FINIS.
 
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