iiiiiSI 
 
 III

 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 The Estate of 
 Prof. Donald B. Lindsley, 
 2003
 
 REPORT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Brown-Harvard Expedition 
 
 TO 
 
 Nachvak, Labrador 
 I 900 
 
 BY 
 
 E. B. DELABARRE, Ph. D. 
 
 PROVIDENCE, R I. 
 
 PRESTON & ROUNDS CO. 
 
 1902.
 
 BULLETIN OF THE 
 
 Geographical Society 
 
 OF PHILADELPHIA 
 
 VOL. Ill APRIL, 1902 No. 4 
 
 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition to 
 Nachvak, Labrador, in the year 1900. 
 
 BY 
 E. B. DELABARRE, PH. D., 
 
 Professor of Psychology in Brown University. 
 
 Introduction. — I. Outline of the Voyage. — II. Summary of the 
 Voyage, and Meteorological Conditions. — III. Overland from Hebron 
 to Nachvak. — IV. Nachvak Bay and the Ascent of Mount Faunce. 
 V. Scenery of the Atlantic Coast of Labrador. — VI. Life on the 
 Labrador Coast. — VII. Scientific Results of the Expedition. — VIII. Re- 
 port on Botany. — IX. Report on Ornithology. — X. Report on Geology. 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 
 This is the record of an expedition of very modest pro- 
 portions and aims. As explorers none of the party had had 
 previous experience ; and only two were experts in the line of 
 work they undertook, both of them young in their respective 
 professions. These facts account for much that must neces- 
 sarily appear as of a more or less amateurish character in our 
 work and report. The results accomplished in spite of these 
 disadvantages, however, which have largely exceeded our 
 anticipations, show how large a field for further profitable 
 research still awaits the explorer. Large sections of the coast 
 are still without a first crude charting of any degree of ac- 
 curacy ; and the entire coast is much in need of thorough work 
 of this kind. Great ranges of the loftiest mountains on our 
 
 65
 
 66 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Atlantic seaboard offer a tempting and untrodden ground for 
 topographical and geological investigation. The botanist, 
 the zoologist, and doubtless the scientific worker in many 
 other lines, may confidently expect many important discov- 
 eries to reward his labors. 
 
 Some of our results have already been published. Mr. 
 Bigelow's report on Ornithology appears in Auk, 1902, Vol. 
 XXVII, pp. 24-31 ; and Dr. Daly's account of the geology of 
 the coast in the Bulletin of the Museum of Comparative Zoology 
 at Han'ard College, igo2, Vol. XXXVIII, pp. 205-270. Each 
 of them has contributed a section to the present report, 
 briefly summarizing his results. Dr. Daly's report is accom- 
 panied by a number of illustrations, for the most part of a 
 more purely geological interest than those given herewith. 
 It embodies by far the most important results of our expe- 
 dition; and it emphasizes at greater length than I have done 
 the need of further exploration. 
 
 Local names and their spelling, as given in this report, 
 cannot in all cases be taken as final and authoritative. There 
 is need of revision in this whole matter, and the final solution 
 must be left to the future. This is true particularly of the 
 names of the less prominent rivers, mountains, and localities 
 in the more northerly parts of the country. It is not unnatural 
 that a considerable variety in usage should have arisen. 
 Some names are due to the Newfoundland fishermen, of Eng- 
 lish descent. Some were given by German missionaries, and 
 these have been Anglicized to some extent. A large propor- 
 tion are of Eskimo origin, and their orthographic rendition is 
 due partially to English sources, more largely to the German 
 missionaries, whose spellings in some cases have been vari- 
 ously and doubtfully modified to suit the demands of English
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 67 
 
 phonetics. Our authorities for the names were the various 
 charts, the Nezvfoundland and Labrador Pilot, Mr. George 
 Ford, of Nachvak, and Rev. Wolf Stecker, of Ramah. Dr. 
 Daly, in his report, has used the versions of the latter, whom 
 he regards as "the only one I have come across who can give 
 authoritative opinions on Eskimo." I should have preferred 
 to have used the same spellings and forms in all cases as Dr. 
 Daly ; but unfortunately his report has come to me too late 
 to make the necessary changes in my text, and I was previ- 
 ously unaware of the names as given by Stecker. The differ- 
 ences are not numerous, and apply almost exclusively to the 
 region about Nachvak, for which I have used names as given 
 by Mr. Ford. I call attention in footnotes to the most im- 
 portant of the variations. 
 
 To Professor Packard and President Faunce, of Brown 
 University, and President Eliot, of Harvard, I apologize for 
 the use of their names as designations of mountains. The 
 exaggerations of certain unauthorized newspaper accounts 
 soon after our return may have given them unpleasant asso- 
 ciations, but I trust that these may have long since disap- 
 peared. Dr. Daly, in his map of Nachvak Bay, reproduced 
 herewith, shows two of these mountains, but does not use 
 their names ; and he writes me that "the mountains are really 
 not sufficiently prominent even in Labrador to merit those 
 particular names." It is true that there are loftier summits in 
 Labrador, and that had we found and climbed them we should 
 have reserved these names for the worthiest of them. But 
 they were the highest unnamed peaks with which we came 
 into intimate contact; as will be seen from my frequent de- 
 scriptive and botanical references to them, it was essential 
 to give them some distinctive label ; and we hope that the
 
 68 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 men whom we, as college students and professors, honor and 
 esteem most highly, will not resent the liberty we have taken 
 in a spirit of sincerest admiration and respect. 
 
 I gladly express my indebtedness to the many who have 
 been of aid to me in connection with the preparation and 
 material of this report. Mr. Henry G. Bryant very kindly 
 allows me to reproduce his map of Labrador. The gener- 
 osity of Dr. Daly and of the Museum of Comparative 
 Zoology at Harvard College make it possible to present 
 Daly's Map of Nachvak Bay. To Dr. Daly and Mr. Adams 
 I owe the privilege of including some of their photographs 
 with my own ; and to Dr. Grenfell that of making use of the 
 photograph given as frontispiece. To the publishers of 
 Outing I am indebted for the cuts showing the Eskimos at 
 Pangnertok, and the party on the overland trip from 
 Hebron to Nachvak. The editors of the Providence Journal 
 and of the Brunonian permit me to use again in two of 
 my sections material which was contributed originally to 
 their publications. To Professor Bailey and Mr. Collins I 
 cannot suf^ciently express my gratitude for their aid in the 
 identification of botanical specimens. Without the large 
 amount of time and energy they have willingly devoted to 
 this task, my own work on the expedition would have been 
 valueless. To a large degree, also, I am under obligation to 
 Professor Cummings, Professor Farlow, Professor Packard, 
 Professor Robinson, and Professor Rowlee for similar 
 services. 
 
 Finally, and not the least heartily, I express my grateful 
 appreciation to the Geographical Society of Philadelphia for 
 its courtesy in permitting the use of its pages for my report ; 
 and to its Secretary, Mr. Greene, for his invaluable help and 
 advice in the work of publication.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 69 
 
 OUTLINE OF THE VOYAGE. 
 
 The coast of Labrador is distant from us only about a 
 week's journey, and in its southern parts is easily accessible 
 by aid of regularly running steamers. Its brief summers 
 possess the attractiveness of our own autumnal season. Its 
 scenery is magnificent, full of beauty and grandeur, distin- 
 guished by including the highest mountains on the entire 
 Atlantic side of America, and in other ways also rivaHng that 
 of many more frequently visited regions. Its reputation as 
 a cold, forbidding, desolate, and dangerous country is unjust. 
 Though forests are lacking near the coast, yet it has the 
 charm of an abundant vegetation, giving it color and life 
 without concealment of the glory of form belonging to its 
 rocky and lofty mountains. It supports a considerable 
 population, both native and white. It is visited annually by 
 hundreds of fishermen from Newfoundland, to some of whom 
 it is familiar even to its northern extreme. It has been ex- 
 plored by scientists to a considerable extent, and traversed 
 by them in various directions. Yet, in spite of these facts, 
 it remains comparatively unknown to most people and 
 attracts few visitors ; and scientific expeditions can still add 
 much to knowledge concerning it. 
 
 Huntington Adams, an undergraduate of Harvard, ac- 
 companied the expedition made by Mr. Taber in 1899 in 
 search of Eskimos for the Paris Exposition of 1900. He re- 
 turned full of enthusiasm for the beauty of the country and 
 eager to return to it for further exploration. He had learned 
 that there was yet plentiful need of good scientific work 
 throughout the peninsula. Much of the coast is still very
 
 70 Report of the Broivn-H award Expedition. 
 
 inadequately charted. Almost all previous scientific expe- 
 ditions have traversed the coast with such rapidity and 
 touched at so few points that a large proportion of it has been 
 very insufficiently examined, and its physiographic features 
 and geological structure still lack accurate description. In- 
 terior exploration has been confined to comparatively few 
 routes, and in particular the entire northern part of the 
 peninsula, between Ungava Bay and the Atlantic, where 
 exist probably the most elevated points of land on the eastern 
 side of the continent, has never had its heights measured and 
 other features determined. Mr. Adams's description of 
 these opportunities for further research ; his excellent photo- 
 graphs of the scenery; his representations of the game possi- 
 bilities of the region; and a general desire to visit an un- 
 known country and to lead an active, healthy, outdoor life 
 for a short time, finally induced several other men to join him 
 in an attempt to unveil some of the mysteries that still remain 
 unsolved in connection with the Labrador peninsula. 
 
 Tlie party, as finally organized, was composed of six 
 members. Edmund B. Delabarre, Ph. D., Professor of 
 Psychology in Brown University, was nominally leader of 
 the expedition ; in the absence of material sufficient to occupy 
 him largely in his own specialty, he made a collection of 
 plants and devoted his time for the most part to such exami- 
 nation of them as could be accomplished by one who is 
 entirely an amateur in botanical work. Reginald A. Daly, 
 Ph. D., Instructor in Geology in Harvard University, made a 
 thorough and efficient geologicail and physiographical exami- 
 nation of the coast ; prosecuted systematic studies of the tem- 
 perature, salinity, and currents of the ocean, and sounded and 
 charted Nachvak Bay. The other four men were all under-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. yi 
 
 graduates from Harvard. Huntington Adams organized 
 and provisioned the expedition most efficiently, kept the 
 meteorological records, and studied the economic mineral- 
 ogy of the regions visited. In the latter work he was assisted 
 by Lewis B. McCornick. Henry B. Bigelow proved an ex- 
 cellent ornithologist. Henry W. Palmer engaged in no 
 scientific work, but was attracted chiefly by the hope of sport 
 and adventure. 
 
 On account of the limited resources of the party, the 
 expedition was made in a sailing vessel instead of in a steamer. 
 This subjected it to numerous delays and made the trip so 
 slow that there was little time for the much desired explora- 
 tion of the northern extremity of the country ; but it proved a 
 fortunate feature in that it insured a thorough and detailed 
 examination of the coast greater than that of any previous 
 scientific expedition. 
 
 The ship secured for the voyage was the "Brave," a 
 forty-ton fishing schooner owned by J. M. Butler, of St. 
 John's, Newfoundland. She had just been entirely rebuilt, 
 and was therefore new and clean, and well adapted to the 
 needs of our small party. Her captain was Abram Batten, 
 of Bareneed, Conception Bay — a very efficient man, skillful 
 and trustworthy, and thoroughly familiar with the Labrador 
 coast. Besides him, our crew consisted of a cook and two 
 seamen, to whose willing and able service we owe much of 
 the success of the expedition. It may encourage other 
 attempts similar to ours to know that all the regular expenses 
 of the trip, including hire and provisioning of vessel, pay of 
 captain and crew, and such extra equipment and provisioning 
 as we ourselves furnished, amounted to only about $1,200 for 
 the entire party of six.
 
 72 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 We left St. John's at 2.30 in the afternoon of Monday, June 
 25th. In beating out between the high cliffs that stand on 
 either side of the narrow entrance to its magnificent harbor, 
 the unsteady winds characteristic of the place nearly caused 
 us to drift upon the rocks and thus end our trip at the very 
 start. Outside we found a strong breeze from the south that 
 sent us well along on our way before it began to fail in the 
 evening. During the night and following day we made but 
 little progress, and came to anchor in the harbor of Greens- 
 pond Island, in Bonavista Bay, at 8.30 in the evening of the 
 26th. A prolonged easterly gale detained us here five days. 
 On July 2d, at 3.45 a. m., we again got under way, anchored 
 that night ofif Change Island, sailed through the next day 
 and night, and at noon of July 4th were ofif Cape Bauld, the 
 northern extreme of Newfoundland. Fog and calms frus- 
 trated an attempt to continue across the Straits of Belle Isle, 
 so we beat back and came to anchor in Kirpon Harbor, just 
 to the west of Cape Bauld. The distance thus far from St. 
 John's was about 330 miles. 
 
 At Kirpon Harbor we were imprisoned eight days by 
 ice-floes. On the morning following our arrival we discov- 
 ered that the Straits were filled with ice from one shore to the 
 other, a width of some 25 miles, and in length as far as we 
 could see. A day later the harbor also was blocked. A 
 large number of other vessels — probably as many as three or 
 four hundred, according to Captain Batten — were also de- 
 tained in this and neighboring harbors, awaiting an oppor- 
 tunity to cross to the Labrador fishing grounds. We occu- 
 pied the time in excursions over the ice and about the neigh- 
 borhood on shore, and in familiarizing ourselves with the 
 details of our scientific work.
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. jT) 
 
 At last, on Friday, July 13th, the way before us lay clear, 
 and we crossed to the Labrador coast, making our first an- 
 chorage that evening in St. Lewis Sound, between Hare 
 Island and Little Caribou — a run of 43 miles. We went 
 ashore at once on Great Caribou Island and made botanical 
 and geological observations. Almost every subsequent 
 evening during our trip, and many entire days, when un- 
 favorable winds made it impossible to proceed, we had simi- 
 lar opportunities for work. Inasmuch as a summary of this 
 work and a description of the scenery of the coast will be 
 given in later pages, the chief features of the remainder of the 
 trip may now be presented in very brief form, except when 
 incidents of especial interest demand fuller detail. 
 
 July 14. — Started at 5.30 a. m., but were unable to get 
 outside of St. Lewis Sound on account of fog and of ice 
 blocking the entrance. Return, and anchor off Assizes 
 Island at 9.30 a. m., having sailed 13 miles. 
 
 July 15. — Ice-floes throughout the harbor. Remain at 
 anchor, but row up St. Charles River for exploration and 
 wood. 
 
 July 16. — No wind. Some of the party visit Battle 
 Harbor. 
 
 July 17. — Start 4 a. m. and run 65 miles. Little ice, and 
 much scattered. Anchor 6.30 p. m. in bight at southwest end 
 of Seal Island. 
 
 July 18. — Delayed by high north wind. 
 
 July 19. — North wind continues, and foggy. Some of 
 the party row to Sloop Harbor and explore on the main- 
 land. 
 
 July 20. — At 11.30 A. M. again under way. Pass 
 through considerable floe-ice. Much fog during part of
 
 74 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 day. Anchor in Gready Island Harbor, 53 miles, at 10.15 
 p. M. 
 
 July 21. — Start 6 a. m. Anchor 10.10 p. m. in Pottle's 
 Cove, on north side of West Bay, just to the south of the 
 entrance to Hamilton Inlet. Much scattered ice. Distance, 
 42 miles. 
 
 July 22, 23. — At Pottle's Cove. Delayed one day by fog" 
 and unfavorable wind, the next by a desire to continue ob- 
 servations here. The sandy beaches in this vicinity are the 
 only ones of any extent in Labrador. Daly discovers glacial 
 striae, the first evidences of glaciation he has found. 
 
 July 24. — Cross entrance to Hamilton Inlet, making 
 run to Ice Tickle, between Ice Tickle Island and Rodney 
 Mundy Island, 21 miles, from 6.30 to 10.15 a. m. Little ice 
 passed, much visible ahead. Wind being also against us, 
 further progress through the narrow channels is impossible. 
 Our first display of aurora borealis in the evening. Explore 
 neighboring islands and visit Indian Harbor. 
 
 July 25. — Contrary winds. Remain at anchor. 
 
 July 26. — Make short run of only nine miles, because of 
 shifting of wind to the north. Anchor in Sloop Harbor, be- 
 tween Brig Harbor Island and Sloop Island. Very little ice 
 visible. 
 
 July 2y. — Light and variable winds. Sail from 5 a. m. 
 to 9.15 p. M., passing Cape Harrison, and make 51 miles. 
 Anchor in Jigger Island Tickle, No ice encountered. 
 
 July 28. — Fog and unfavorable winds. Run 32 miles 
 from 1 1 A. M. to 9.25 p. M. Little ice. Anchor in an un- 
 named bight on mainland northwest of Conical Island, and, 
 on account of the experiences of the following day, name it 
 Mosquito Bight.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 75 
 
 July 29. — Light winds. Remain at anchor and get 
 wood. Much trouble from mosquitoes. 
 
 July 30. — Almost calm. Drift on to Pomiadluk Point, 
 making only 10 miles in the entire day. Climb mountain 
 above the Point, and establish its height as 1,170 feet. Many 
 interesting geological features here — roches montomiees, con- 
 glomerates, lunoid markings, etc. 
 
 July 31. — No wind. Remain at anchor. 
 
 August I. — Still calm. Make about three miles in eight 
 hours. 
 
 August 2. — Weigh anchor 10.30. Tow out off Pomi- 
 adluk Point, and thence, with occasional light winds but 
 mostly calms, make slow and slight progress. At midnight 
 drifting off Cape Mokkovik. 
 
 August 3. — Anchor, because of contrary winds, in Sum- 
 mer Cove, Aillik Bay, at 6 a. m. Distance from last anchor- 
 age, 14 miles. Adams, Daly, and Delabarre, attempting to 
 land in the surf on a distant part of the shore, are dashed onto 
 hidden reefs and wreck their rowboat. Are later rescued by 
 fishermen who happen by. Boat is recovered and repaired 
 the following day. Small auroral display in the even- 
 ing. 
 
 August 4, 5. — Lack of wind during the morning of the 
 4th and probability of its continuance, together with general 
 disinclination of our crew to sail on Sundays, decide us to 
 remain here two days, explore Mokkovik Bay, and attempt 
 to climb Mt. Altagaiyaivik (otherwise known as Mt. Misery 
 or Monkey Hill, 2,170 feet). Mokkovik Bay is badly and 
 variously charted, and it was uncertain how far it might 
 extend inland, and whether or not it might interfere with 
 our attempt to reach the mountain. Bigelow, Delabarre,
 
 76 Report of th: Bromn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 and McCornick started on this expedition in the early after- 
 noon of the 4th; sailed in a small boat four miles to the head 
 of Aillik Bay, and thence walked to the south across an inter- 
 vening neck to Mokkovik Bay and along the shore of the 
 latter. We passed the night in our sleeping-bags on the 
 shore, after walking a distance of about seven miles. On the 
 following morning we continued along the west shore of 
 Mokkovik to the southward for about seven miles, being then 
 nearly opposite the southern end of Altagaiyaivik, which lay 
 across the bay on the eastern shore. It was then evident that 
 the bay stretched on for at least four miles further in a south- 
 westerly direction, and that it would be impossible to get 
 around it, climb the mountain, and return to the ship before 
 nightfall. We therefore turned back, returning by nearly the 
 same route as that by which we had come, and reached the 
 ship again at 7.30 p. m. It was evident from our observa- 
 tions that from Cape Mokkovik the bay stretches inland, with 
 several curvings. at least 25 miles. Its general directions 
 are : south, for six or seven miles ; southwest, about five miles ; 
 south, about six miles ; southwest, five miles or more. Near 
 the beginning of the first turn to the southwest is a recently 
 established Moravian Mission station. The bay is sur- 
 rounded by picturesque hills, of which Altagaiyaivik, 2,170 
 feet, is apparently the highest. Its shores in many places are 
 well wooded, the spruce growing to the height of about 50 
 feet. 
 
 August 6. — A fair run of 42 miles, between 5 a. m. and 
 6.30 p. M., brought us to the Moravian station at Hopedale. 
 We were courteously received by the missionaries, and found 
 our first mail awaiting us. 
 
 August 7. — Start at 5.30 a. m. and run 53 miles, anchor-
 
 C Mc*Aiiyi/< 
 
 Aillik 
 
 and 
 
 Mokkovik< Bays 
 
 Uraivn parr/y from /!dmira/ry C/rarfj 
 andparr/y /ro/r persona/ oijeryon>,7 
 
 Ata^neTic Vor/ofiory 
 
 
 yfOfjAoy fff'//} 
 
 The accompanying chart embodies the results of our observations. 
 Although not based on a careful survey with accurate instruments, but 
 constructed by the cruder methods of visual impressions, compass- 
 directions for the shore-lines traversed, and estimate of distances by 
 the rate of walking, yet it is given as being more accurate than hitherto- 
 published charts. Comparison of this with others, as, for instance, 
 Bryant's map of this section (adapted from Proceedings of the Royal 
 Geographical Society, 1888), published with this report, will show how 
 varied and unauthoritative the latter are, and how great is the need 
 of careful work of this sort. Even such a cursory survey as ours could 
 greatly improve the recorded outlines of the islands and coast in hun- 
 dreds of places; and accurate work by experienced men would be of 
 much value to the numerous vessels that frequent this coast.
 
 E. B. Dclaharre, Ph. D. yy 
 
 ing at 6 p. m. in Quirk (or Draw Bucket) Tickle, a little to the 
 west of Kikkertaksoak (Spracklings Island). 
 
 August 8. — Leave 6.15 a. m. Light winds, becoming 
 almost calm. At 5.15 p. m. anchor in Ford Harbor, Paul's 
 Island, 26 miles. Mr. Ford informs us that the northern 
 end of the ice-sheet passed here about a week ago. We 
 ourselves have seen no floe-ice since July 28, and encounter 
 none during remainder of trip. 
 
 August 9. — Almost absolute calm. Drift about all day, 
 and make only about three miles. Anchor just outside of 
 Ford Harbor. 
 
 August 10. — Start 7 a. m. Calm in morning, light wind 
 in afternoon. Anchor at 8 p. m. at Black Island, 20 miles. 
 Two settlers here, George Webb and Chestry Ford, arrange 
 to take us on hunting expeditions, one on Black Island, 
 known to contain a herd of caribou, and one near Port Man- 
 vers. 
 
 August II. — Day opens calm and foggy. Bigelow and 
 Palmer start early with Ford to hunt on Black Island. 
 Adams and McCornick set out in skiff with Webb for Port 
 Manvers. Schooner starts 11. 15, overtakes and picks up 
 second party, and anchors in Port Manvers, 5.30 p. m., 18 
 miles. 
 
 August 12. — Adams, Delabarre, McCornick, and Webb 
 hunt on mainland. Secure a black bear and a caribou before 
 noon. Other party arrives from Black Island at 9.15 p. m., 
 after a wet, cold, and difficult all-day sail in a trap-skiff and 
 a narrow escape from shipwreck. 
 
 August 13. — Bigelow and McCornick decide to stay in 
 a small hut at Port Manvers until our return from the north. 
 We land supplies, then start 10.45 a. m., sailing 28 miles to 
 Cutthroat Tickle, where anchor at 8.45 p. m.
 
 78 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 August 14. — High northwest wind, diminishing in farce. 
 Start 1 1. 1 5 A. M. Complete cahn after 7 p, m., and tow the 
 ship from 8.30 p. m. to 12.20, when w^e anchor in bight on 
 south side of Mugford Tickle. Distance made, 28 miles. 
 
 August 15. — Absolute calm. Remain at anchor. 
 
 August 16, 17. — Start 9.30 a. m. Light wind through 
 Mugford Tickle, calm almost all the rest of the day and the 
 following morning. Northerly gale arises about noon of 
 17th, making it impossible to round Cape Saglek, so we put 
 into Hebron Harbor, anchoring 3.30 p. m., 45 miles from 
 Mugford. Visit missionaries at the station. 
 
 August 18. — Northerly gale continues. Remain at an- 
 chor at Hebron. Missionaries tell us of a practicable route 
 overland to Nachvak, about a hundred miles distant. Adams 
 and Delabarre decide to take it, leaving Daly and Palmer to 
 continue in the schooner. 
 
 August 19. — Adams and Delabarre start on their over- 
 land trip, which is specially described later (in Section HI). 
 Ship remains at anchor, with wind light and unfavorable. 
 
 August 20, 21. — Ship starts 10.30 a. m. Wind light 
 and often failing, and remain out all night. Wind still light 
 the following day, and finally towing is necessary. At 6 
 P. M. anchor in bight on north shore of Nachvak Bay, three 
 miles w^est of the narrows, having sailed 76 miles from 
 Hebron. 
 
 August 22. — Start 9.45 a. m. and proceed with light 
 winds 15 miles west through Nachvak Bay to Kipsimarvik, 
 where is a station of the Hudson's Bay Company, of which 
 George Ford is agent. Anchor here 4.30 p. m. 
 
 August 23 to September 3, inclusive, 12 days, the ship 
 remained at anchor close by Mr. Ford's house, in Nachvak 
 Bay. We were received with great cordiality by Mr. Ford,
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 79 
 
 and we owe much to his kindly hospitality during our stay. 
 This was the most northerly point reached by the expedition. 
 Adams and Delabarre arrived August 26th. The time was 
 spent in making as thorough an exploration as possible of 
 the bay and its surroundings. In particular, the bay was 
 sounded and charted, geological and botanical examinations 
 were made of the surrounding countr)', and measurements 
 of the heights of some of the neighboring mountains. Low- 
 lying clouds, which prevailed during most of our stay, un- 
 fortunately made it impossible to accomplish as much of the 
 latter kind of work as we desired. A description is given 
 later (Section IV) of the bay and of the most important 
 ascent made. September ist was set as the date for our 
 departure, but lack of favorable winds delayed us until the 
 4th. We would gladly have remained longer in this region, 
 so grand and impressive in its scenery and afifording so many 
 opportunities for exploration of value ; and we also strongly 
 wished to push on the short distance further to Cape Chidley, 
 and to make a careful study of the interior between it and 
 Nachvak. In fact, this had been one of our strongest cjesires 
 in undertaking the expedition. But the long time consumed 
 in the outward voyage and the necessity of returning for col- 
 lege work obliged us to turn homeward. 
 
 September 4. — Start 10 a. m. with light winds, and suc- 
 ceed by 6.30 p. M. in sailing only about four miles. Anchor in 
 a small bight on the west shore of Ivitak (in Nachvak Bay). 
 
 September 5, 6. — Start 7.30 a. m. of the 5th. Remain 
 out all night, and anchor in Hebron Harbor, 87 miles, at 2 
 p. M. of the 6th. 
 
 September 7, 8, 9. — Unfavorable winds delay us at 
 Hebron. Snow falls all the afternoon of the 8th.
 
 8o Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 September lo. — Hebron (6 a. m.) to Cutthroat Tickle 
 (5 p. M.), 71 miles. 
 
 September 11. — Start 7.30 a. m. At 10 a. m. arrive off 
 Port Manvers and attempt to beat in ; but outgoing tide and 
 unfavorable wind prevent. Continue on, therefore, to Black 
 Island, to inquire if Webb and Ford there have any recent 
 knowledge of the two we left at Manvers. Return later to 
 Port Manvers, anchoring therein at 5 p. m. Bigelow and 
 McCornick rejoin the schooner. Their month here has been 
 pleasant and uneventful. Distance sailed, to-day, 66 miles. 
 
 September 12. — Port Manvers (11.30 a. m.) to John's 
 Harbor, near south end of Aulatsivik (8 p. m.), 30 miles. 
 
 September 13. — John's Harbor (7 a. m.) to Nain (5 
 p. M.), 22, miles. We put into Nain instead of continuing 
 directly southward, for the purpose of visiting a mine of lab- 
 radorite on Taber's Island, a dozen miles from Nain. At 
 Nain we found Dr. Grenfell, of the Labrador Medical Mis- 
 sion, who kindly offered to take us in his steamer, the "Strath- 
 cona," to Taber's Island on the following day. Of Dr. Gren- 
 fell and his splendidly conducted mission I shall speak again 
 (Section VI). The generous courtesy he showed us is char- 
 acteristic of the man, and was a great saving of time to us. 
 
 September 14. — Schooner proceeds to Ford Harbor, 20 
 miles. Members of expedition accompany Dr. Grenfell to 
 Taber's Island, where specimens of labradorite are secured, 
 and rejoin the schooner in the afternoon at Ford Harbor. 
 
 September 15. — Ford Harbor (5 a. m.) to Quirk Tickle 
 (5 p. M.), 26 miles. 
 
 September 16. — Quirk Tickle (6.30 a. m.) to Hopedale 
 (4 p. M.), 53 miles. Secure our first mail and papers since 
 our previous call here, August 6th.
 
 A'iew to the North from a Hill aliove Hopedale: a typical 
 southern landscape. 
 
 The Kiglapait.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 8i 
 
 September 17. — Remain at anchor at Hopeclale. 
 
 September 18. — Hopedale (6 a. m.) to Sloop Harbor, ofif 
 Brig Harbor Island (9.45 p. m.), 125 miles. 
 
 September 19. — Sloop Harbor (5.30 a. m.) to Mullin's 
 Cove, on mainland south of Gready Island (7.30 p. m.), 63 
 miles. The distance covered during these last two days re- 
 quired 17 days during the northward voyage. 
 
 September 20. — Mullin's Cove (5.45 a. m.) to American 
 Tickle, Seal Islands (3.30 p. m.), 49 miles. 
 
 September 21. — Southerly winds keep us at anchor. 
 
 September 22. — American Tickle (5 a. m.) to Cape St. 
 Francis Harbor (4 p. m.), 42 miles. 
 
 September 23, 24. — Detained by unfavorable winds. 
 
 September 25, 26. — Leave Cape St. Francis 6 a. m. 
 Cross the Straits of Belle Isle. Wind drops in afternoon, 
 and we beat along off Cape Bauld and White Islands all 
 night. Fresh wind from the south causes us to anchor at 
 Grand Brehat, Newfoundland, at 7.30 a. m. of the 26th. Dis- 
 tance, 78 miles. 
 
 September 27. — At anchor. 
 
 September 28. — Leave Grand Brehat 7 a. m. Nt noon, 
 on account of thick, foggy weather and other unfavorable 
 conditions, anchor in harbor of Cape Rouge (or Crouse), 40 
 miles. 
 
 September 29, 30. — Detained by unfavorable winds. 
 
 October i, 2. — Start 2 a. m. and take six hours to get out 
 of the harbor. A favorable wind is met outside, and we cover 
 the 268 miles to St. John's in 40 hours. Are well within the 
 harbor by midnight of the 2d, and come to anchor there a 
 half hour later. 
 
 It was with great surprise that we learned, soon after our
 
 82 Report of the Bromn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 arrival, of the undue prominence that had been given to our 
 expedition in the newspapers. They had taken advantag'e 
 of our lateness in returning, and of a hurricane that had re- 
 cently wrought much havoc on the Newfoundland coast, to 
 proclaim that we were probably lost. There was no founda- 
 tion whatever for their sensational accounts. We had not 
 encountered the hurricane, nor otherwise been in peril. 
 
 The voyage on the whole was one of great pleasure and 
 profit. The wild, mountainous scenery of the coast alone 
 would have repaid us. The slowness of our progress made 
 impossible of accomplishment some of our original projects; 
 but it really interfered with very few of them, and, on the 
 other hand, it helped far more than it hindered. To it is 
 due the fact that we examined the coast in a more thorough 
 and detailed manner than had previously been accomplished, 
 and thus made a considerable number of observations and 
 discoveries of scientific interest, particularly along geological 
 lines. The results of our work will be given in Section VII 
 and followinsf. 
 
 II 
 
 SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE, AND METEOROLOGICAL CON- 
 DITIONS. 
 
 A considerable portion of the data about to be given 
 is derived from observations of such a nature that there can 
 be no question as to their accuracy. But others depend upon 
 the records of more or less faulty apparatus, and the tables 
 summarizing these records cannot lay claim to any high 
 degree of value. They may ser\'e to give a fairly good gen- 
 eral idea of the conditions under which the trip was made;
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 83 
 
 but they cannot be used as a basis for calculations or deduc- 
 tions where a close approximation to absolute accuracy is 
 essential. None of the members of the expedition had had 
 previous experience in the taking of meteorological records ; 
 there was no opportunity before the start to visit Washing- 
 ton for the purpose of obtaining reliable instruments and 
 instruction in their use ; and the time of the members during 
 the trip was so often devoted to other scientific interests that 
 there was a considerable amount of irregularity in making 
 these observations. Records were kept, however, with such 
 regularity as was possible, in spite of the imperfection of the 
 instruments, mainly for the satisfaction of the members of 
 the party. Realizing that they contain a high and indeter- 
 minable degree of error, I have had some doubt as to the 
 expediency of publishing them. It has been suggested, how- 
 ever, that they may not be absolutely without value, and so 
 they are given out with these words of caution as to their 
 reliability. 
 
 The expedition left St. John's in the ''Brave'' on the 
 afternoon of June 25th, and re-arrived at St. John's just after 
 midnight of the morning of October 3d. The voyage was 
 thus finished on the looth day after the departure. On the 
 northward journey, 18 days were passed in Newfoundland; 
 41 days, from July 13th to August 22d, in going along the 
 Labrador from the Straits of Belle Isle to Nachvak Bay. 
 On the return, 22 days, from September 4th to September 
 25th, were passed on the Labrador, and seven days on the 
 Newfoundland coast. It thus took 59 days to make the north- 
 ward journey; 12 days were devoted to the stay at Nachvak; 
 and 29 days were required for the return. The southward 
 trip was accompHshed in about half the time of the north-
 
 84 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 ward. During one day of the return (September 18th), a 
 distance was covered that had occupied, on account of un- 
 favorable winds alone, 11 days in going north; and on the 
 following day a distance to which six days had previously 
 been devoted. The other gains were smaller. 
 
 The total distance sailed was about 2,100 miles, of which 
 not far from 1,400 were along the Labrador coast in the two 
 directions. The rate of travel, counting only the days on 
 which some progress was made, averaged 2)2)\ miles a day 
 on the way north, 55 miles on the way south, and about 42 
 miles for both together. 
 
 It was possible to sail at all on only about half the days 
 devoted to the voyage ; and very nearly the same proportion 
 held for both the outward and the return voyage. Of the 
 days during which some progress was made, from one-third 
 to one-half were so unfavorable that a distance of less than 
 25 miles was covered. Thus, on the journey north, of the 
 59 days, only 31 permitted any sailing at all (and two of these 
 were without any real advance), only 25 saw a greater dis- 
 tance covered than 15 miles, and only 22 more than 25 miles. 
 On the return, during 19 days of the 29, some distance was 
 made, during 16 more than 15 miles, during only 14 more 
 than 25 miles. Going north (59 days), detention was due : 
 to ice-floes. 9 days (the ice proving a serious obstacle to 
 progress on several other days also), to unfavorable winds, 
 17 days, and to voluntary delay, 2 days. On 6 other days a 
 distance of less than 15 miles was covered. This makes a 
 total, not including the two days of voluntary detention, of 
 32 unfavorable days (more than half) on which it was impos- 
 sible to progress at least 15 miles. Going south (32 days, 
 counting 3 at Nachvak, on which it had been planned to sail),
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 85 
 
 unfavorable winds prevented sailing on 13 days and pre- 
 vented progress of at least 15 miles on 3 additional days — a 
 total of 16 unfavorable days, or exactly one-half. 
 
 The two chief obstacles to progress were thus the large 
 floes of ice streaming southward along the coast, and winds 
 contrary in direction or insufficient in force. The last 
 trouble from the ice was on July 24, at Ice Tickle; the last 
 day on which we saw any floe-ice at all was July 28 ; and Ford, 
 of Paul's Island, said that the northern end of the ice-sheet 
 passed Ford Harbor about the ist of August. The prevail- 
 ing winds were from the northerly and southerly quarters. 
 During the northward voyage, nearly half the winds (44 per 
 cent.) were northerly, and only 25 per cent, southerly. 
 During the return, about 30 per cent, were from the north 
 and 31 per cent, from the south. 
 
 According to the Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot, 
 "gales are stated to be frequent and violent" on the Labrador 
 coast. The expedition encountered but one or two of any 
 considerable force, during which it was safely in harbor. 
 The Pilot further says that calms are of short duration, "rarely 
 lasting more than one day." About 14 per cent, of the ob- 
 servations taken during the entire trip recorded no wind at 
 all. If we group among the calm days those on which less 
 than 15 miles could be sailed, as well as those when the wind 
 was insufficient to permit any sailing at all, then 25 per cent, 
 of all the days during the northerly voyage were calm, and 
 there were many more when it was calm during a portion of 
 the day. About the same proportion held for the voyage 
 southward. These calm days came quite as frequently sev- 
 eral in succession as singly. 
 
 The following table gives in their order from St. John's 
 northward the different harbors at which we touched, the
 
 86 
 
 Report of the Broivn-Harvurd Expedition. 
 
 date of our arrival (except St. John's outward and Hudson's 
 Bay Post, Nachvak, homeward, when it is the date of the 
 departure), and the approximate distances from the last pre- 
 vious station (to be read downward for the outward and up- 
 ward for the homeward trip) : — 
 
 TABLE I. 
 
 LOCATION OF THE "BRAVE" THROUGHOUT THE VOYAGE. 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 lO 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 l6 
 
 17 
 i8 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 
 23 
 24 
 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 
 30 
 31 
 
 32 
 
 34 
 
 STATIONS * 
 
 OUT- 
 WARD 
 
 St. John's, N. F., 
 
 Greenspond Island, N. F., 
 
 Change Island, N. F., 
 
 Cape Rouge, N. F., 
 
 Grand Brehat, N. F., 
 
 Kirpon Harbor, N. F. , 
 
 Hare Island, Lab., 
 
 Assizes Harbor, 
 
 Cape St. Francis Harbor, 
 
 American Tickle, 
 
 Seal Island, 
 
 Mullin's Cove, 
 
 Gready Island, 
 
 Pottle's Cove, West Bay, 
 
 Ice Tickle, 
 
 Sloop Harbor, Brig Harbor Island, . . 
 
 Jigger Island, 
 
 Mosquito Bight (unnamed on chart ; west 
 of Adlavik Islands), 
 
 Pomiadluk Point, 
 
 AillikBay, 
 
 Hopedale, 
 
 Quirk (or Draw Bucket) Tickle, . . . 
 
 Ford Harbor, 
 
 Ford Run, 
 
 Nain, 
 
 John's Harbor, 
 
 Black Island Harbor, 
 
 Port Manvers, 
 
 Cutthroat Tickle, 
 
 Mugford Tickle, 
 
 Hebron, 
 
 Skynner's Cove, Nachvak Bay, .... 
 
 Ivitak, Nachvak Bay, 
 
 Hud.son's Bay Post (Kipsimarvik), Nach- 
 vak Bay, 
 
 June 25 
 June 26 
 July 2 
 
 July 4 
 July 13 
 July 14 
 
 July 17 
 
 July 20 
 July 21 
 July 24 
 July 26 
 July 27 
 
 July 28 
 July 30 
 Aug. 3 
 Aug. 6 
 Aug. 7 
 Aug. 8 
 Aug. 9 
 
 Aug. 10 
 Aug. II 
 Aug. 13 
 Aug. 14 
 Aug. 17 
 Aug. 21 
 
 Aug. 22 
 
 DIS- 
 TANCE 
 
 109 
 60 
 
 ISO 
 43 
 
 65 
 
 53 
 42 
 21 
 9 
 51 
 
 32 
 14 
 14 
 
 42 
 
 S3 
 26 
 
 3 
 
 23 
 18 
 28 
 28 
 
 45 
 76 
 
 15 
 
 HOME- DIS- 
 
 WARD TANCE 
 
 Oct. 2 
 
 Sept. 28 
 Sept. 25 
 
 Sept. 22 
 Sept. 20 
 
 Sept. 19 
 
 Sept. 18 
 
 Sept. 16 
 
 Sept. 15 
 
 Sept. 14 
 
 Sept. 13 
 
 Sept. 12 
 
 (Sept. II) 
 
 Sept. II 
 
 Sept. 10 
 
 Sept. 6 
 
 Sept. 4 
 Sept. 4 
 
 268 
 
 40 
 
 78 
 
 42 
 49 
 
 63 
 
 125 
 
 53 
 26 
 
 23 
 30 
 
 28 
 71 
 
 87 
 
 * The authoritative spelling of some of these names is doubtful. 
 Different charts do not always agree with one another, nor with the 
 Newfoimdland and Labrador Pilot.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 87 
 
 Sim, Rain, and Snozv. — There was a fairly even propor- 
 tion of sun and rain. About one-fourth of the days were 
 wholly sunny; only about one-third of them were without 
 any sunshine at all. Very nearly half of the days had some 
 rain, though of these only 6 were rainy all day. The amount 
 of rain that fell was not large. Usually there occurred only 
 light showers or drizzle, and there was not a single really 
 heavy rainfall. Snow fell only once at sea-level, on Septem- 
 ber 8th. There were no thunder showers, though once or 
 twace single faint claps of thunder were heard, no lightning 
 being visible. The first half of the trip was more rainy than 
 the rest of it. Of the 49 days to August 12th, only 15 were 
 without rain, and 3 of these were overcast. The longest 
 periods without rain were 9 days from August 13th to August 
 2 1st, 3 of which were overcast; and 7 days from September 
 9th to September 15th, none of them wholly overcast. The 
 longest period of overcast skies consisted of 10 successive 
 days, from August 28th to September 6th, on 4 of which 
 there was rain, and on 2 a very small amount of sun. 
 
 These observations compare with others accessible to us 
 as follows : The Pilot speaks of "the few fine days of Summer." 
 Lx>w (Explorations in the Labrador Pehinsula, 1886, p. 29), re- 
 marks : "During the summer season the precipitation, if not 
 great, is constant, as a day rarely passes without drizzle, or 
 thunder showers, which lower the temperature." Yet 
 Bryant (Journey to the Grand Falls of Labrador) speaks of 
 only 10 of the 41 days from August 4 to September 13, 1891, 
 as rainy, 3 as having occasional showers, and one as cloudy — 
 the remaining 27 being presumably largely sunny. During 
 the same period as Bryant, w^e, on the coast to the north of 
 Hamilton Inlet, had 15 days with more or less rain, though 
 of these 6 had a large proportion of sunshine ; and there were
 
 88 
 
 Report of tJie Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 lo others that were wholly or predominantly cloudy. Low's 
 observations were made in a part of the country for the most 
 part very different from that of our own expedition. In 
 1893, between August 13th and September 30th, his journey- 
 ings corresponded most nearly with our own, covering the 
 territory from the Upper Koksoak to Chimo, around to the 
 Atlantic coast, and south to Rigolet; and of the 48 days, 5 
 had rain and about 20 others were overcast (clouds 7 or more 
 on a scale of 10). In 1894, between July ist and August 
 24th, he was on the Upper Hamilton, among the lakes, and 
 on the Romaine River south to Mingan ; of the 55 days, there 
 was rain on 36 and 7 were overcast. In 1895, July ist to 
 September 2d, in the vicinity of the Manicouagan River, of 
 the 64 days, 46 were rainy. All authorities agree as to the 
 small amount of annual precipitation. 
 
 These comparisons are summarized in the following 
 table. In considering the comparisons, one must remember 
 that the observations of Low and Bryant were made for the 
 most part in the interior, in the localities above mentioned, 
 while ours were made on the coast ; and that some error may 
 arise from my interpretation of their records, the terms used 
 by them not being idefitical with those given here : — 
 
 TABLE II. 
 
 SUNNY, OVERCAST, AND RAINY DAYS. 
 
 
 Bryant. 
 
 Aug. 4- 
 
 Sept. 13, 
 
 1891. 
 
 Low. 
 
 " Brave." 
 
 
 Aug. 13- 
 
 Sept.30, 
 
 1893. 
 
 July I- 
 
 Aug. 24. 
 
 1894. 
 
 July I- 
 
 Sept.2, 
 
 1895. 
 
 June 2S- 
 
 Oct. 2, 
 
 1900. 
 
 Days wholly or largely sunny, . . , , 
 Days largely overcast, without rain, . . 
 Days mainly sunny, with some rain, . 
 Days mainly overcast, with some rain, . 
 Days predominantly rainy, 
 
 27 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 36 
 
 18 
 46 
 
 30 
 19 
 16 
 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 Total days, 
 
 41 
 
 48 
 
 55 
 
 64 
 
 100
 
 £. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 
 
 89 
 
 Our own observations can be presented best in another 
 series of tables, as follows : — 
 
 TABLE III. 
 
 SUNSHINE AND RAIN. 
 
 
 
 DAYTIME 
 
 
 
 DAYTIME 
 
 
 RAIN 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 WHOLLY 
 
 PARTLY 
 
 WITHOUT 
 
 WHOLLY 
 
 PARTLY 
 
 WITHOUT 
 
 
 
 SUNNY 
 
 SUNNY 
 
 SUN 
 
 RAINY 
 
 RAINY 
 
 RAIN 
 
 
 June 25-30, .... 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 July i-iS, 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 July 16-31 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 1 I 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 Aug. 1-15, 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 ! 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 Aug. 16-31, 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 I 
 
 Sept. I-IS, 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 
 Sept. 16-30, 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 Oct. 1-2, 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Total, 
 
 27 
 
 41 
 
 32 
 
 6 
 
 41 
 
 53 
 
 ig 
 
 TABLE IV. 
 
 FREQUENCY OF CLOUDS. 
 
 PARTLY 
 CLOUDY 
 
 June 25-30, 
 
 July 1-15, 
 
 July 16-31, 
 
 Aug. I-15, 
 
 Aug. 16-31, 
 
 Sept. 1-15, 
 
 Sept. 16-30, 
 
 Oct. 1-2, 
 
 Total, . . 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 5 
 8 
 
 3 
 3 
 9 
 I 
 
 33 
 
 5 
 7 
 9 
 6 
 
 7 
 7 
 5 
 o 
 
 46 
 
 TABLE V. 
 
 NUMBER OF FOGGY DAYS (LABRADOR ONLY). 
 
 SLIGHT OR 
 DISTANT FOG 
 
 THICK 
 
 NO 
 
 FOG 
 
 RECORD 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 THICK FOG 
 ALL DAY 
 
 July 14-31, 
 
 Aug. 1-15, 
 
 Aug. 16-31, 
 
 Sept. 1-15, 
 
 Sept. 16-25, 
 
 Total, . 
 
 Total days, less repetitions of Column 5, 67.
 
 90 - Report of tlw Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Temperature. — In spite of the cold Arctic current that 
 sweeps southward along these shores, the summer was, on 
 the whole, very comfortable and fairly uniform in tempera- 
 ture. The observations made by the expedition suffered 
 considerably in accuracy from the fact that the thermometers 
 used were not wholly reliable, and from the impossibility of 
 finding on the ship any situation where the instruments could 
 be wholly shaded from the sun and have free circulation of 
 air about them. To some extent the observations could be 
 corrected by the aid of other observations made at irregular 
 intervals for other purposes by Dr. Daly, using a thoroughly 
 reliable thermometer. The results thus attained, while not 
 entirely accurate, are yet of some value in judging the sum- 
 mer temperature of the Labrador coast. The highest tem- 
 perature recorded by the instruments was 78° ; the probably 
 highest actual (corrected) temperature was 72°. Tlie lowest 
 temperature was 30.5°. The average was 46°. There were 
 only five days recorded, and probably only one actually, when 
 the maximum exceeded 70°. On about 33 days, or one-third 
 of all, the maximum was less than 50°. On only 6 days was 
 the minimum below 32°, but on 45 days it was below 40^^. 
 The average daily range of temperature was 13°, the highest 
 range 25.5°, the lowest 4.5°. 
 
 Of the temperature in the interior, north of Lake Mis- 
 ^assini. Low says that 80° is exceeded on only a few days 
 during the summer season; that 45° below zero appears to 
 be the minimum winter temperature of most years; and that 
 the mean temperature at the lake in 1885 was: for June 
 53.1°, for July 59.9° (ours was 46.2°), and for August 56.7° 
 (ours 49.4°). Bryant found the minimum temperature for 
 his journey 29°, the maximum 82°, the mean minimum 42°
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 91 
 
 (ours for about the same period was about 41°), and the mean 
 maximum 58° (ours 57°). Wakeham (Report of Expedition 
 in Steamship "Diana" in i8py), from June 2y to October 9, 
 1897, found a maximum temperature of 79°, a minimum of 
 27°, and a mean of 43.1°. According to the Pilot, the mean 
 temperature in 1875 for the coast between Cape Porcupine 
 and Nain was : in July 46.5° (ours 46.2°), in August 50.3° 
 (ours 49.4°), in September 44.5° (ours 43.1°). 
 
 Our daily temperature-readings are not possessed of a 
 sufficiently assured and complete accuracy to make it desir- 
 able to give them in full. Grouped together by half-months, 
 the records, corrected so that they are fairly reliable, yield 
 the results seen in the following table. The maxima and 
 minima were given by a recording themometer, a modifica- 
 tion of Sixe's type (similar to the Miller-Casella instruments). 
 The daily range of temperature was obtained from this instru- 
 ment by determining the difference between its recorded 
 maximum for the day and minimum for the night. Average 
 (i) was obtained by determining the daily mean of the maxi- 
 mum-minimum records. Average (2) was calculated from 
 three daily readings at stated hours. The corrections were 
 made by comparison of the records of the regularly used 
 thermometers with those occasionally taken with great care 
 by aid of a fully-tested and corrected centigrade thermometer 
 loaned to Dr. Daly by the United States Coast and Geodetic 
 Survey, which, unfortunately, had to be used most of the time 
 for other purposes, and hence was not available for these 
 daily observations. 
 
 Comparison of our averaged results with those of other 
 expeditions, as quoted above, seems to indicate that our 
 degree of error was not so large as to destroy altogether 
 the value of the table here given.
 
 92 
 
 Report of the Broivn-H award Expedition. 
 
 TABLE VI. 
 
 TEMPERATURE. 
 
 June 27-30, . 
 
 July 1-15. . 
 
 July 16-31, . 
 
 Aug. 1-15, . 
 
 Aug. 16-31, . 
 
 Sept. 1-15, . 
 
 Sept. 16-30, . 
 
 Oct. 1-2, . 
 June 27-Oct. 2, 
 
 MAXIMUM 
 
 64 
 
 68 
 
 68.5 
 
 72 
 
 62 
 
 57 
 62 
 
 54 
 
 72 
 
 48.5 
 
 34-5 
 
 34-5 
 
 38 
 
 35-5 
 
 30.5 
 
 30.5 
 
 41-5 
 
 30.5 
 
 DAILY 
 RANGE 
 
 II. 2 
 12.6 
 12-5 
 
 iS-7 
 II. 6 
 10.9 
 12.8 
 
 "5 
 
 12.7 
 
 AVERAGE 
 
 (l) 
 
 55 
 
 46.4 
 
 46.4 
 
 50-4 
 
 47-9 
 
 41 
 
 44.4 
 
 46.3 
 
 AVERAGE 
 
 55.8 
 46 
 46, 
 50 
 
 46.9 
 
 Relative Humidity. — The hygrometer at our disposal for 
 the measurement of the relative humidity of the air was very 
 imperfect, and its findings are uncertain as to their value. 
 Its readings, however, corrected by later comparison of 
 our hygrometer with another reliable instrument, furnish 
 the following conclusions, which can be regarded as having 
 only a relative value : The maximum humidity was 100, 
 the minimum 27.5, the mean 82. July was most moist, 
 with a mean of 93. August was dryest, with 76. September 
 had a humidity of about 80. Of our 245 observations, only 
 2,7 were as low as 65, and of these only eight were as low as 
 50, and only two 40 or under; 162 were 80 or more ; 127 were 
 90 or more. 
 
 Pressure. — The barometric pressure ranged from 29.28 
 to 30.75, with a mean of 29.82. Wakeham, in 1897, between 
 June 27 and October 9, experienced a range from 29.31 
 to 30.37, with a mean of 29.82. On only three occasions up 
 to September 22 did the barometer rise above 30.20, one of 
 these occasions covering three days. From September 22 
 on, it was above 30.20 almost constantly, dropping below it
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 
 
 93 
 
 for two short periods only. On six occasions, two of them 
 covering three days each, it fell below 29.50. 
 
 The records from June 27 to July 15, inclusive, are 
 from the ship's aneroid, which was neither compensated nor 
 tested, and which reads from i-io to 3-10 lower than the 
 other. The records for these dates are therefore inclosed in 
 parentheses in the table. Records after July 15 are from a 
 far more reliable compensated aneroid (Thaxter, Boston), 
 reading to 5,000 feet. The latter was compared under widely 
 varying pressures with the standard mercurial at Cambridge, 
 Mass.. from which it was found to vary but very slightly. It 
 was also subjected to frequent tests by Dr. Daly during the 
 trip, by means of comparisons with measured heights and 
 with other barometers, and found to possess a high degree 
 of accuracy. 
 
 TABLE VII. 
 
 PRESSURE. 
 
 June 27-30, . 
 July 1-15, . 
 July 16-31, . 
 Aug. 1-15, . 
 Aug. 16-31, . 
 Sept. 1-15, . 
 Sept. 16-30, . 
 Oct. 1-2, . 
 June 27-Oct. 2, 
 
 29.65 
 30.00 
 30.16 
 30.24 
 30.38 
 30.21 
 30-36 
 30.75 
 30.75 
 
 2954 
 29.11 
 29.56 
 29-43 
 29-55 
 29.28 
 29.32 
 30.18 
 29.28 
 
 (29.59) 
 (29-57) 
 
 ;29.59) 
 
 (29-57) 
 
 ^9.86 
 
 29.76 
 
 29.97 
 
 29.68 
 
 29-95 
 
 29.82 
 
 III. 
 OVERLAND FROM HEBRON TO NACHVAK. 
 
 Hebron Harbor is situated near the entrance to Kan- 
 gerdluksoak, a narrow bay extending many miles to the west- 
 ward into the interior of Labrador at about latitude 58°
 
 94 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 north. About a hundred miles north of it is Nachvak Bay, 
 also long- and narrow. Between them the coast is much in- 
 dented, containing a host of small bays, and also two of 
 larger size — Saglek* and Nullatartok. At the entrance to the 
 latter is situated Ramah, the most northerly of the Moravian 
 Missions in Labrador. The intervening country is traversed 
 never, probably, by white men, unless a portion of it in the 
 winter by dog-sledge,t but not infrequently by Eskimos, who 
 have regular routes across it. Transportation across the 
 bays is easy to secure because of a summer fishing settlement 
 of Eskimos on the shore of Saglek, of the mission station at 
 Ramah. and of the Hudson's Bay Company's post at Nach- 
 vak. 
 
 These facts we learned from Mr. Townley. one of the 
 missionaries at Hebron. Adams and the writer, eager to 
 do some interior exploration, decided to make this trip, 
 leaving the schooner to go on when it could to Nachvak. 
 We secured as guide Amandus, a young Eskimo, who knew 
 the way as far as Ramah. For his services we were to pay 
 fifty cents a day and provide him with food, tobacco, and 
 transportation in the schooner back to Hebron. 
 
 The morning of Sunday, August 19, was devoted to 
 preparations for departure. Of provisions we took enough 
 for a week, consisting chiefly of compressed emergency 
 ration and ship's biscuit. Our further equipment included 
 
 * More commonly spelled Saeglek. 
 
 t The dog-sledges for the most part travel on the ice along the coast. 
 One white man, named Colley, is said to have walked, a number of years 
 ago, along the entire coast from far south through Hebron to Nachvak, 
 and thence across to George River. Nothing is known of his ante- 
 cedents or real purpose; he claimed to be in search of a brother. He 
 was probably mentally unsound, and at George River he committed 
 suicide.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 95 
 
 sleeping bags, camera, aneroid barometer, thermometer, and 
 rifles. At 2 p. m., local time (forty minutes behind St. John's 
 time), we set out from the schooner. Our first ten miles 
 were made in a trap-skifif, westward through Kangerdluksoak 
 Bay, in order to get to the rear of Mt. Johannes, which rose 
 in our way a little back of the mission house. Our crew, 
 consisting of Amandus, his brother, and two small Eskimo 
 boys about ten years old, were very merry, continually laugh- 
 ing, joking, and singing, and showing themselves sturdy and 
 willing workers. We found these excellent qualities in 
 Amandus throughout the trip. All about the bay rose 
 mountains, a few of them precipitously from the water's edge. 
 Those near the bay attain a height apparently of about 2,500 
 feet. Most of them are rounded and glacier-worn, with 
 numerous projecting and impressive knobs. Far ofif to the 
 south a snowy peak was sometimes visible over the nearer 
 heights, and to the west were other still higher summits. 
 
 At six o'clock we landed just beyond the furthest outlying 
 slopes of Johannes. From this point a low, wide valley, 
 rising in the middle not more than 50 feet, stretched north- 
 ward two and a half miles to a small bay called Iterungnek. 
 Shouldering our packs, we walked through this valley. Back 
 of us the sunset was lighting up the hills, the nearer ones 
 with yellow, the more distant with violet hues. We soon 
 passed what our guide said were Eskimo houses — rude walls 
 of stone built under a projecting rock and forming two rough 
 shelters. They looked black and old, but their sombre hues 
 were relieved by pink masses of fireweed flowers growing 
 thickly about them. Further on, on the shore of the bay, was 
 a group of ancient Eskimo graves. We rounded the head of 
 the bav, skirted the shore for a little distance further, and at
 
 96 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 7,35 made our camp for the night, about four miles from our 
 starting point, near a small brook of clear, cold water. The 
 dead branches of two-foot wdllows furnished us with firewood, 
 and Amandus soon had our pots boiling over a very diminu- 
 tive fireplace. As we crept into our sleeping-bags, after 
 writing up our notes by the dim firelight, the sky was brightly 
 illuminated by a fine display of northern lights, centered 
 chiefly in the magnetic south. 
 
 Tlie night was chilly. At 4.20, when we arose, the tem- 
 perature was 47°, and it rapidly became warmer. We had a 
 flood of bright sunshine all day long. Our route was up and 
 down hill all the way. The highest point was attained 
 toward noon, at 1,560 feet. From this elevation we caught a 
 glimpse of a group of bold mountains to the north, across 
 Saglek Bay, some of them apparently of the so-called "house- 
 roof" formation. When we stopped for lunch a little later, 
 the temperature was 63°. In the early afternoon we con- 
 tinued for several miles at a general elevation varying from 
 1,050 to 1,160 feet, and then made a steep descent to a river 
 flowing northeastwardly into Kajuktok, a portion of Saglek 
 Bay. A line of hills, 1,300 feet in height, then lay before us, 
 between the river and the bay. We had but just forded the 
 river and begun their ascent, when we were fortunate enough 
 to shoot a doe. Amandus concealed the carcass, intending 
 to return for it after he reached home again ; and we took 
 with us a leg, which added greatly to our larder during the 
 rest of the trip. Then we continued up the hill, walked on 
 for a couple of miles along its nearly level summit, and at 
 seven o'clock stopped for the night near its final crest. We 
 had walked during the day about 16 miles. Mosquitoes were 
 thick, and prevented sleep for some time. A wonderful
 
 Eskimo Encampment at Pangnertok. 
 
 Ml-uiIjcts of llu- Tarty on the Overland Trip from Heljron to Nachvak.
 
 E. B. Dclaharre, Ph. D. 97 
 
 auroral display was some compensation for our wakefulness. 
 Its mild light swept over the heavens, for the most part taking 
 the form of curved vertical bands, changing and wavering. 
 
 Our third day, August 21st, was another one of bright, 
 warm sunshine. At 8.30, just before our start, the tempera- 
 ture was 63°. From the crest of the hill, which we soon 
 reached, we had a beautiful view toward Saglek Bay. Just 
 below us was a wide, level stretch, reaching from the foot of 
 our slope to Pangnertok, a branch of Saglek. To our right 
 a brook tumbled down, and to the left a considerable river 
 emptied into the head of Pangnertok. Beyond lay the 
 waters of the bay, from whose further shore rose up the roof- 
 like mountains we had first seen the previous day, with their 
 almost vertical sides seamed with gullies and bare of vege- 
 tation. On the flat near the mouth of the river was an Es- 
 kimo encampment. We hastened down and reached it at 
 ten o'clock. The little settlement consisted of two canvas 
 tents and two skin topeks. The fishermen who live in them 
 are Hebron Eskimos, spending the summer here for the sake 
 of the trout in the nearby streams. They welcomed us with 
 much hospitality, invited us into their tents, and otherwise 
 showed their interest and good-will. It was nearly 2.30 
 before the tide had risen sufficiently to allow their trap-skifif 
 to get out of the river into the bay. Then we set out and 
 had a delightful sail, down Pangnertok under the steep face 
 of Mt. Pinguksoak on the further shore, past Kajuktok, the 
 bay into which empties the river crossed yesterday, into the 
 main bay, and across it past the islands of Aulatsivik and 
 Saglek to the northern shore. The scenery of the bay was 
 strikingly beautiful, far surpassing in its wild grandeur 
 any that we had seen. The mountains were everywhere
 
 98 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 crowded down close to the water, from which most of them 
 rose up precipitously except for a short talus at the bottom; 
 and similar steep cuts extended up into the tributary valleys. 
 The heights varied probably from 3,500 to 5,000 feet. We 
 sailed and rowed for four hours through this gorgeous 
 scenery, under a sky entirely clear except for a few high, 
 fleecy clouds. Our Eskimo crew were friendly and inter- 
 esting. At the end they demanded but one plug of tobacco 
 apiece for their services. We landed at 6.30, and were soon 
 again on the march. We had not proceeded far, however, 
 before we sighted two caribou, a doe and a fawn. We 
 dropped our packs and went in pursuit; but darkness inter- 
 vened before we could overtake them, and so they happily 
 escaped. A hard walk through soft bog and over rough 
 talus brought us back to our packs, where we camped for the 
 night. The auroral display was the finest we had seen. It 
 covered almost the entire sky and gave a light almost as 
 brilliant as moonlight. There was a great variety in the pat- 
 terns it formed, with an uneasy, restless play and quivering 
 of the bands, as though a light wind were blowing wnth enor- 
 mous rapidity through a bright, thin mist. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 22d, we arose at five o'clock. A 
 thin, chill fog was in the air, and after a little it began to 
 sprinkle. At 6.20 the temperature was 45°. At 6.30 we 
 were started on our fourth day's journey. The valley that 
 lay before us, running up into the mountains northward from 
 Saglek Bay, was wide and level for the first two miles, formed 
 of alluvial deposits, and then ascended gradually in a narrow 
 line between steep slopes of talus. Its bottom formed the 
 bed of a mountain torrent. Its eastern border was a single 
 huge mass whose summit towered probably four to five thou-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 99 
 
 sand feet above the bay. On the west were two peaks, pre- 
 senting smoothly curving faces toward the valley. Their 
 great bases were somewhat convex vertically also, and were 
 distinctly marked by alternating strata of different material, 
 as if they were of sedimentary origin. At the head of the 
 valley was another peak, similar to those on the west. 
 
 We passed through the level plain, by a couple of small 
 lakes, and then climbed slowly up the valley. Our way was 
 sometimes over moss and soil, but more often over broken 
 heaps of rocks of all sizes, piled in confused masses. At the 
 height of 980 feet we reached a very peculiar formation. 
 Between low cliff walls, thirty or forty feet apart, a smooth 
 floor of flat-topped, level boulders had been formed, descend- 
 ing in a series of terraces for two or three hundred feet. It 
 was doubtless formed by the pressure of slowly moving ice 
 constrained within rigid walls. The surface was as flat and 
 almost as compact as that of a macadamized road. A little 
 beyond it the valley, which had been trending true north and 
 south, turned sharply to the right. Just beyond the curve 
 we stopped for lunch, about seven miles from our starting 
 fKDint. 
 
 Our surroundings were marvelously beautiful. All 
 about us towered the massive bare cliffs of the mountains. 
 At the bend of the valley a foaming stream of water de- 
 scended in almost vertical falls and rapids from a height far 
 above. Another stream came down the upper stretch of the 
 valley into which we had turned. At our feet lay a deep, 
 clear pool, fed from a snowbank lying between narrow walls 
 of rock. Here we were well sheltered from the wind, which 
 had been strong and chilling all the morning. While we 
 were lunching the sky cleared and the sun came out, and the
 
 loo Report of the Broivn-H award Expedition. 
 
 rest of the clay was warmer and more pleasant. At 12.20 the 
 temperature was 53°, and the barometer indicated a height 
 of 1,010 feet. 
 
 On resuming our journey, we deserted the valley and 
 attacked the mountain to the north directly. First we scaled 
 a precipitous cliff at a break in its wall, then mounted over 
 a steep, soft talus of shale, and thus gained a considerable 
 level of smooth soil. Beyond the latter we climbed another 
 steep wall, crossed a plain of shale fragments, climbed along 
 a gradually mounting series of smooth, slanting rocks, gained 
 and passed over a long, ascending bank of snow with a pre- 
 cipitous drop at its right, then crossed a long series of small 
 serrate ridges, and finally attained the pinnacle of the pass, 
 2,150 feet above the sea. The summits that had become 
 familiar to us along our route thus far still towered above us, 
 probably to double our own elevation. Beyond, to the 
 north, lay a new series, extending as far as we could see. 
 
 Our course next lay down through a wide valley, bare 
 and rocky, all ridges and huge loose boulders, with high, 
 bare-sided peaks rising out of it on all sides. Once we 
 passed a picturesque cascade, two separate bands of water 
 leaping over the upper rocks and then joining into one for 
 another plunge. Within an hour we had descended to> 1,580 
 feet, whence our work was alternately up and down over simi- 
 lar series of boulders. To these succeeded a short grassy 
 level. Then we climbed up diagonally over a great field of 
 snow, at whose base the boulders were flattened out into a 
 smooth floor like the one we had seen in the valley of the 
 morning. From the top of the snow drift we crossed a long 
 level, covered over with small fragments of sharp, broken 
 slate, at a height of about 1,400 feet. Beyond that a long,
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. loi 
 
 gentle descent, cut across by two or three rivers flowing 
 through deep gorges, led toward a fertile-looking valley run- 
 ning east and west. One of the river gorges had deep snow 
 drifts lining each side, with high, vertical walls facing each 
 other. Another was completely filled in with snow and ice, 
 under which the river forced its way through a tunnel. The 
 roof of the tunnel made a smooth, easy bridge for our 
 ■crossing. 
 
 When we reached the bottom oi the new valley, whose 
 narrow river flows eastward into Sorviluk Bay, we forded the 
 stream and made our camp on its further bank, just below a 
 picturesque waterfall. Our height here was 800 feet. It 
 was then 6.15, and we calculated that we had walked about 
 16 miles since morning. 
 
 We had much difficulty in finding firewood, and a strong, 
 chilly wind was blowing, so that our supper was prepared and 
 eaten under conditions of considerable discomfort. The 
 sunset, as usual, was not brilliant. There was little or no 
 aurora. The mountains were all capped with clouds. Espe- 
 cially striking was one noble mass that lay just east of the 
 middle part of our afternoon's route, with a huge curved 
 amphitheatre on his side toward us, and a crown of fleecy 
 softness resting on his majestic head and streaming off far 
 beyond it toward the south. A broad peak lying east of us, 
 and north of our valley, was doubtless Mt. Blow-me-down. 
 
 The night was rendered uncomfortable by the heavy 
 wind. It was still blowing hard when we arose at 6.20. At 
 7.35 the temperature was 40°. An hour later we began the 
 fifth day's march. It was first an easy climb over slaty 
 ground up to a general level of about 1,200 feet, over which, 
 with slight dips and rises, we marched for several hours.
 
 102 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Our progress was slow, and we were chilled by rain and fog 
 and by a piercing northerly wind. At one point we passed a 
 large lake, at an elevation of about i,ooo feet, full of little 
 islands and jutting peninsulas, and stretching away appar- 
 ently for several miles into the fog. The slate deposits con- 
 tinued, and in a few places we found sandstones and 
 conglomerates or breccias. We finally descended from this 
 plateau into a gorge at a height of 850 feet, then climbed 
 rather steeply against a bitterly cold wind, turned slightly 
 westward, and at noon stopped for lunch in a gully where we 
 were sheltered from the wind, at a height of 2,000 feet. A 
 light snow fell about us, the temperature was 2>7° , ^i^d we 
 had to shiver vigorously to keep warm. Our gully was one 
 of the level-floored formations that had interested us the day 
 before. We crossed it, climbed up slightly higher, and then 
 began to descend slowly, having passed the summit of the 
 pass. At our left lay a long valley, far below us, stretching 
 ofT toward the western end of Ramah Bay, which soon came 
 into sight. A succession of curving summits lay before us, 
 on the right of the valley, and along the flanks of these we 
 marched, keeping at a high level. The summits were all 
 concealed in the fog. We continued walking over long 
 reaches of slate, which finally became smoother. At 4.30 we 
 stopped to take a photograph of the picturesque grouping 
 of mountains across the bay. Three sharp peaks lay to the 
 right, and broader, more rounded ones rose massively fur- 
 ther west, with the waters of the bay at their feet. Soon after 
 we stopped again to photograph the mission house. Back 
 of it lay a mountain, ending toward the east in, two abrupt 
 cliffs, their feet bathed in the waters at the entrance of the 
 bay, the nearer one bright in sunlight that struggled through
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 103 
 
 the thick clouds, the other curving behind it in deep shadow. 
 From these cHffs banks of thin fog were blown out, against 
 which a rainbow was formed, arching from the mission house 
 entirely across the mouth of the bay. Thence we went 
 straight down the remaining 800 feet or thereabouts, reached 
 the beach at 5.30, and fired two shots to summon a boat from 
 the other side. Our distance thus far for the day we esti- 
 mated at about 17 miles. While we were waiting, Adams 
 examined the rock formations near the shore. He found 
 them everywhere composed of slate, containing quartz veins 
 and much iron pyrites. 
 
 A couple of small Eskimo boys soon appeared in a boat, 
 and rowed us across the mile-wide bay to the mission house. 
 We were warmly welcomed by the missionaries, who had been 
 wondering greatly over our approach. They were so urgent 
 in their hospitality, so intelHgent and sympathetic in their 
 interest in our investigations, and the warm and comfortable 
 shelter they gave us was in such welcome contrast with the 
 conditions of the previous days, that we remained with them 
 until the middle of the following afternoon. 
 
 At Ramah we secured an additional guide, Philippus by 
 name, for the rest of the way. We left the mission at 2.20 
 p. M. of August 24, were rowed about four miles to near 
 the head of Nullatartok or Ramah Bay, and thence started 
 again northward. Our route was at first up easy, grassy 
 slopes, then westward around a high crest, with one of the 
 sharp peaks we had seen in a group of three the day before 
 blocking our direct way to the north. We circled the latter, 
 gradually rising, with a few short descents, into wide and 
 fertile valleys adorned with lakes or watercourses. We were 
 still on shaly ground until toward the last, when we had a
 
 104 Report of the Brozvn-H arvard Expedition. 
 
 long stretch of marching over heaps of rocks. Toward 
 seven o'clock v^'e reached a little oasis in this sea of stones, 
 at an elevation of 1,530 feet, and stopped to camp for the 
 night. There was no wood in the vicinity. Our guides 
 gathered heaps of the four-cornered heath-like growth of the 
 Cassiope tetragotm, which, being somewhat resinous, made 
 a smoky and ill-burning fire, over which we slowly cooked 
 our supper of venison, emergency ration, and tea. At 8.15 
 the temperature was 39*^. Our beds were rather stony, and 
 the fog was settling thickly around us as we crept into them. 
 
 On the following day we were up at six. The tempera- 
 ture was then 37°. Disgusted with our experience of the 
 evening before, we made no fire, but breakfasted on raw 
 ration, and started off at 6.30. For some distance we trav- 
 eled at a general level of about 1,600 feet, between the re- 
 maining two of the three sharp peaks. Thence we began to 
 descend through a long valley leading to Nachvak Bay, be- 
 tween a series of summits flanking either side. The first 
 nine miles of our way were over stones; the succeeding four 
 miles were more grassy. At noon we reached the shore of 
 a bight, called Tinutyarvik or Shoal Water Cove, projecting 
 from the bay southward. Finding plenty of driftwood here, 
 we stopped for two hours and cooked a bountiful lunch, using 
 up the last of our venison. 
 
 Our guide had hoped to find Eskimos encamped in this 
 bight, who might take us in boats to Ford's. There was no 
 trace of them, however, and we were obliged to travel along 
 the bay westward until we should find them, or, failing that, 
 arrive opposite Ford's house. We rounded the first head- 
 land, walking near the shore, covering a distance of three 
 miles, to a second bight. Finding no one there, we crossed
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 105 
 
 a river, climbed the hillside west of it, attaining- 1,100 feet, 
 marched along between the hilltops for three miles, de- 
 scended again to the shore at a point about four miles from 
 the last bight, and then continued for three miles along the 
 shore. Here we entered a third deep bight, called Ivitak 
 or Brick Bight, the last mile being a stony torture on account 
 of our weary limbs and sore feet. At 6.30 we came to a 
 freshly deserted camp. We afterwards learned that the Es- 
 kimos we sought had left there that very day. So our last 
 hope of getting aboard the "Brave" by night was proved 
 vain. We therefore encamped on the spot, cooked a supper 
 of ration and tea, and roasted some dried caplin that we had 
 found on the shore. There were numerous black flies about, 
 but they fortunately seemed to prefer the abundant refuse of 
 the Eskimo camp to ourselves. During our entire stay in 
 Labrador we had hardly any trouble from the flies. Mos- 
 quitoes had been a terrible nuisance for about a month, but 
 we had our last unpleasant experience with them during the 
 night of August 20. 
 
 On Sunday, August 26, the eighth and last day of our 
 march, we arose at early daybreak, a little before five o'clock. 
 A white frost, the first of the season, covered the grass about 
 us. At 6.15, when we started, the temperature was ;^7°. 
 The sun was just lighting the tops of the hills east of us, 
 ushering in a splendid day. After proceeding to the head 
 of the bight and crossing the delta, of a river that came down 
 through a narrow valley between long series of hills, we 
 climbed the hillside west of it. Our route lay for several 
 miles on high ground, gradually rising in the valleys between 
 the summits to successive higher levels until we were at 
 1,300 feet. Then we went down rapidly to the shore, coming
 
 io6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 out onto a sandy point, near which a tumultuous brook 
 foamed down the hillside. We were then just opposite 
 Ford's house, and the "Brave" lay moored in the shelter of 
 a projecting point near it. Our distance for the morning" 
 was about eight miles, and we came to the end of our long 
 tramp at 10.15. We gladly threw down our packs, fired two 
 shots, and soon again two more, were answered by a flash 
 from the ship, and then were soon again on board. 
 
 It thus took us just seven days to complete our trip. 
 Our progress was naturally slow. The walking was, for the 
 most part, over loosely aggregated heaps of stone that filled 
 the narrow valleys and covered the mountain tops ; our packs 
 were fairly heavy; and our thin seal-hide native boots, 
 adopted because of the much-worn hobnails of our own 
 shoes, were ill-adapted to so long and rough a journey and 
 needed frequent repairing. We estimated the distance that 
 we had traversed as about 30 miles by water and 90 to 95 by 
 land. The distance from our landing place on Kangerdluk- 
 soak (Hebron) Bay to Saglek Bay is about 22 miles; from 
 the north shore of Saglek Bay to Ramah very nearly 35 
 miles; from Ramah to Nachvak Bay, at the point where we 
 came out, nearly 20 miles; and along the shore of Nachvak 
 to a point opposite Ford's house about 18 miles. The 
 highest point we reached was 2,150 feet above the sea. We 
 cHmbed up in all and again descended some 11,000 to 12,000 
 feet. In its general topographical appearance and formation 
 the country we passed over was of two kinds: surrounding 
 the bays on which Hebron and Ramah are situated, the 
 mountains rise more gradually and to lesser heights ; on the 
 borders of the fiords of Saglek and Nachvak they are very 
 lofty, and rise often in perpendicular cliffs directly out of the
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 107 
 
 water and the tributary valleys. In both sections they are 
 piled up in picturesque and confusing abundance. Their 
 summits and slopes are worn and broken. About Saglek 
 and Nachvak they are more wild and rugged. In. the slate 
 region about Ramah they have a softer tone and gentler 
 slopes. Geologically also we traversed sections of different 
 nature and origin: at the extremes of our route the rock 
 formations are of gneiss cut by dykes of trap — the character- 
 istic rock-materials of the country ; in the middle section, be- 
 ginning about seven miles north of Saglek and reaching 
 beyond Ramah for a distance of at least four or five miles, — 
 a total distance of not far from 30 miles, — the rocks are sedi- 
 mentary, being for the most part of slate, with ocasional 
 sandstone and breccias. Since no fossils have yet been dis- 
 covered in these deposits, their age is still undetermined.* 
 
 IV. 
 
 NACHVAK BAY AND THE ASCENT OF MOUNT FAUNCE. 
 
 Nachvak Bayf is a deep and wild fiord not far from Cape 
 Chidley, the northern extreme of Labrador, at the entrance 
 to Hudson Strait. Probably there is no wilder and grander 
 scenery anywhere along the coasts of the two Americas than 
 that afforded by the lofty mountains and dark, narrow bays 
 in this vicinity. I should imagine that the famous fiords 
 of Norway must present a very similar appearance. This 
 
 * A. P. Low (Annual Report, Geol. Surv. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896, 
 p. 249 L), on the authority of Dr. Bell, calls them Huronian schists. 
 
 t Compare Daly's sketch-map of Nachvak Bay, reproduced here- 
 with.
 
 io8 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 has the advantage of being more accessible to us Americans, 
 and must surely be as fully worthy of a visit. Tlie bay ex- 
 tends in a narrow body for about 20 miles inland, and then 
 divides into two graceful arms that proceed in south-trend- 
 ing curves for six or eight miles further. We sounded its 
 cold waters in several places and found them attaining a 
 depth of over a hundred fathoms. High mountains surround 
 it in intricate clusters, crowding close down to its shores t)n 
 every side. At places they rise in perpendicular clififs di- 
 rectly out of the water ; our anchorage was in the shadow of 
 one possessed of the impressive height of 2,500 feet. There 
 are no trees to veil the wonderful beauty of these huge 
 masses, though an abundant and many-hued low vegetation 
 clothes their lower slopes. 
 
 The northern shore is comparatively featureless and un- 
 indented. Only two coves are known to afiford safe an- 
 chorage, on one of which is the post of the trading company. 
 Elsewhere the cliffs drop steeply under water to a great 
 depth. The south shore has a larger number of reentrant 
 bights, into each of which flows a stream of goodly size, fed 
 from the lofty heights to the south and tumbling through a 
 bouldery trough until it spreads into the U-shaped alluvial 
 plain at its mouth. In several of these bights it is possible 
 to find holding-ground for anchors and protection from 
 heavy blows. A prominent scenic feature of the north shore 
 is a considerable waterfall, about two and a half miles east of 
 Ford's house. It begins at a height of 700 feet to leap down 
 in short cascades with long reaches between. From the 
 height of 525 feet there is a continuous series of cascades, 
 and all this part of the fall is visible from the middle of the 
 bay. Its final almost vertical plunge is 375 feet in height.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 109 
 
 Steep up from the shores of the bay rises a series of 
 mountains, which attain very nearly the greatest height of 
 any in all of Labrador. North of them, on the coast, no 
 great distance beyond, and northwest in the interior, are the 
 very highest of all, the highest, in fact, of any mountains of 
 the Atlantic coast of North America. They form two classes 
 in their general formation, the two often mingling, sometimes 
 in dififerent portions of the same mountains. Some rise 
 steeply, with talus-covered sides except on the higher parts, 
 to long, sharp, dentate ridges. The others have more gently 
 curving sides and rounded tops, though one or more of 
 their faces may be cut away, leaving perpendicular cliffs, often 
 of great height. The rounded form predominates on the 
 immediate shore of the bay, the former lying further back 
 from its waters.* The curves and outlines of the more 
 rounded are usually of great simplicity, yet possess a massive 
 and vigorous majesty and grandeur. They often hide wild 
 gorges in their folds, where torrents dash down the thinly- 
 soiled slopes ; and their cHffs, some of them of great height, 
 are wonderfully imposing. At a distance the rounded sides 
 and summits of these mountains appear smooth and easily 
 accessible, in great contrast with the more rugged outlines 
 
 *"A11 agree in emphasizing the wild, ragged, alpine nature of the 
 relief. From end to end of the (Torngat) range, razor-back ridges and 
 horns abound. These are separated by lower rounded hills and yet more 
 conspicuously by numerous deep fiords and glaciated valleys or glens, 
 the near relatives of the fiords. ... It would be a mistake, however, 
 to attribute a glacial origin to the rounded profiles of many of the 
 dome-shaped mountains that alternate with the horns. The former are 
 to be regarded as the result of atmospheric erosion and their slopes as 
 the graded surfaces of mountains normally subdued to relatively tame 
 form by that agency. The same stage of development awaits their more 
 acuminate neighbors." — Daly's Geology, p. 224.
 
 no Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 of the sharper peaks. But on closer view their rocky frame- 
 work is seen to project everywhere, bare and greatly weath- 
 ered, while their higher portions are concealed under a roug-h 
 covering of the angular fragments into which their surfaces 
 have been rent by the powerful forces that are at work in their 
 slow transformation. 
 
 At the entrance to the bay are two bold headlands, 
 rising outward to the higher summits of Mt. Razorback on 
 the north and Gulch Cape on the south. Thence inland, 
 high, often clifT-broken mountains closely line either shore.* 
 The highest range occurs probably somewhat westward of 
 the furthest waters of the bay. It is penetrated by several 
 rivers, flowing eastward and draining into Ramah, Nachvak, 
 and other bays. Those reaching Nachvak Bay turn after 
 piercing the mountain range, and thus flow into the bay from 
 north and south as well as west. These rivers have their 
 rise in a comparative lowland, covered by an extensive forest, 
 some fifteen to twenty miles from Nachvak waters. Beyond 
 this low watershed is a gentle slope westward toward Ungava 
 Bay, cut by a river large enough to be navigable by small 
 boats. 
 
 The alluvial plains on the shore at the ends of the val- 
 leys, which are never of any great extent, and the valley 
 sides and bottoms wherever they are not filled in with coarse 
 detritus, are thickly clothed with vegetation. Grass, moss, 
 curlew, berry-bearing Ericacece, are mingled together in a 
 continuous complex-patterned carpet, rich in color and in 
 intricacy of design. Mingled with the greens and autumnal 
 
 *The statements that follow in this paragraph are on the authority 
 of George Ford.
 
 \ 
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. m 
 
 reds of their leaves, and with the greens, reds, browns, and 
 grays of the mosses and lichens, are the isolated bits of yellow 
 of arnica and golden-rod, the blue of the harebell, the pink of 
 lychnis and of the fireweed. Willows growing to the height 
 of seven or eight feet and less, and birches and alders of lower 
 growth, thickly line the borders of ponds and streams. ' On 
 the lower parts of the mountains the same growths are intri- 
 cately interspersed with the protruding masses of rock, which 
 themselves vary in color among the softer and harsher tones 
 of black, brown, and gray. The ascendancy in this com- 
 bination of struggling life and rigid earth is gradually gained 
 by the latter as the elevation becomes greater, until, toward 
 the shattered tops, there occur only rare, isolated specimens 
 of the more ambitious and hardy plants. The steep cliffs and 
 talus grades are destitute of any trace of vegetation, but in 
 many places, especially toward the upper ends of the two 
 arms of the bay, they show a magnificent wealth and variety 
 of coloration, in which shades of red and yellow occur among 
 the more frequent tones of brown and gray. 
 
 In spite of their height, none of these summits are buried 
 beneath the weight of eternal snows, and no glaciers plow 
 through the foldings of their sides. Scattered banks and 
 patches of the previous winter's snow linger here and there 
 at all heights, but they constitute a comparatively subordi- 
 nate motif in the total harmony of the landscape. At this 
 season, freshly-fallen snow may at any time cover the moun- 
 tain tops. Water, also, except for the great bays and the 
 blue stretch of the ocean itself when these are visible, forms 
 but a minor element of scenic beauty. The rivers are usually 
 hidden among the irregular curvings of the mountains, or 
 conceal themselves among the boulders of their beds. 
 
 V 
 
 V- 
 
 \
 
 112 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Where the valleys widen sufficiently, they hold small ponds 
 or lakes, but this is of comparatively rare occurrence. Only 
 an occasional beck streaks the hillsides with a line of foam. 
 Thus the softening influence of water, snow, and vegetation 
 play a minimal part in determining the appearance of this 
 country, and leave unveiled the beauty of its huge masses. 
 On this account the absence of forests is a boon rather than 
 a detraction. The grandest scenery of Labrador begins with 
 the ragged shapes of the Kiglapait near Port Manvers, con- 
 tinues nobly with the groups at Cape Mugford, and cul- 
 minates in a magnificent climax at Nachvak. 
 
 Nowhere can the student of geology and of the causes 
 of scenery better study his problems than here where nature 
 lays bare the manner of her working, without concealing its 
 stages and effects under the hindering veil of snow or of 
 vegetation. Clear and sharp stand out the evidences and 
 nature of glacial action ages ago, and of the alternate sinking 
 and rising of the land with reference to the level of the sea. 
 Beautifully plain appear the effects of denudation by frost 
 and water, as seen in the shattered summits, the forms of the 
 mountain masses, the accumulations of talus, and the great 
 curves and complexity of the valleys. Standing on one of 
 these heights, one can almost trace out the whole history of 
 the diversification of the original simple ridges into the in- 
 tricate system of varied peaks and valleys that now exist. 
 
 Evidences of the former glaciation of this country are 
 abundant.* Dr. Daly established the fact that the main ice- 
 
 * Low {Annual Report Geol. Surv. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896, p. 309 L) re- 
 ports, on the authority of his own investigations and those of Dr. Bell, 
 that there was no glaciation at Nachvak above 340 feet.
 
 Sketch Map of Nachvak Bay. 
 Scale: 6 miles to i inch. Contour interval: 500 feet. 
 Reprinted from R. A. Daly's Geology of the Northeast Coast of 
 Labrador, by permission of the Museum of Comparative Zoology at 
 Harvard College.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 113 
 
 sheet did not reach above the level of 2,100 feet above the 
 sea, though smaller local glaciers existed in all the side val- 
 leys. Below that height he found all the marks of former 
 glacial activity: ice-worn boulders, roches montonnees, striae, 
 terminal and lateral moraines : while above it these marks are 
 absent. He found also over twenty hanging valleys, some 
 of them magnificent examples of this feature of the ice work. 
 The movement of the ice-sheet followed the trend of the bay 
 and of the adjacent valleys. He discovered here also, as in 
 previous places, raised beaches and similar results of the post- 
 glacial submergence of the country underneath the sea. The 
 highest beach line is at about 250 feet above the bay.* 
 
 The bay itself is a typical fiord, in that it is deeper within 
 than at its entrance. Dr. Daly made over twenty soundings 
 in it, going over 45 miles in a small boat for the purpose, and 
 testing all its principal points. The greatest depth he found 
 is no fathoms, and it is thus the deepest measured bay in 
 Labrador. 
 
 Unfortunately, the days we passed at Nachvak were 
 almost all of them heavily overcast, w4th thick clouds low 
 down and concealing the tops of the higher summits, so that 
 it was profitless to attempt to scale them. We climbed and 
 measured several peaks, however, and the following pages 
 give an accountf of our chief ascent. 
 
 On a narrow alluvial fiat on the northern shore, just 
 where the two arms of the bay diverge, are the house and 
 stores of the Hudson's Bay Company, which carries on a 
 flourishing trade in furs and fish with the native Eskimos, 
 George Ford, the agent, has lived for over twenty years with 
 
 * Low {loc. cit.) places the upper limit at i8o feet. 
 t Reprinted in part from the Brunonian, May, 1901.
 
 114 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 his family in this soHtary place, far away from his nearest 
 neighbors, the Moravian missionaries at Ramah to the south, 
 and rarely cheered by the sight of visitors. Closely north of 
 his house is a mountain whose height, according to our meas- 
 urements, is 3,900 feet. Since it was without a name, so far 
 as we could learn, we called it Ford Mountain in honor of our 
 kindly host. Its western flanks abut upon a valley in which 
 flows southward into the bay a river called by the Eskimo the 
 Goratsuk.* Some five miles from its mouth it receives from 
 the eastward a tributary stream, the Shenukatik.* The She- 
 nukatik, therefore, lies in a valley just to the north of Mt. 
 Ford, separating the latter from a series of higher mountains 
 beyond. 
 
 Saturday, the ist of September, dawned with low, thick 
 clouds covering the tops of all the mountains visible from our 
 anchorage. The same unwelcome conditions had prevailed 
 for several days past, interfering considerably with our moun- 
 tain climbing. We had been at Nachvak now for a week, 
 and had decided that it was time to turn our faces homeward. 
 The day, however, proved unfavorable for sailing, the winds 
 being light and directly into the bay. The barometer was 
 rising, nevertheless, and thus gave promise of an agreeable 
 change in the heavy weather. As the morning progressed 
 the sun came out brightly and the clouds became higher and 
 thinner. Adams and I, who had come to Nachvak together 
 overland from Hebron, had long gazed yearningly at the 
 lofty summits above us, and, therefore, welcomed eagerly 
 
 * These names are given by Daly, on the authority of Mr. Stecker, 
 as "Kogarsuk" and "Sennerkitte," respectively. The names used in the 
 text are as given by Mr. Ford, but probably the others should be pre- 
 ferred.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 115 
 
 what seemed to be a favorable opportunity to conquer some 
 of them. To be sure, we would not have time in one day to 
 reach the mightiest peak of Eastern America, though we 
 were certain that it was not far away from us. But we could 
 at least attempt the highest mountain in the immediate 
 vicinity, and thus climb probably higher than any one had 
 ever been in Labrador, and certainly establish a record for 
 the highest measured peak. 
 
 It was already late before we decided that the ship could 
 not start, and that it would be a good day for our enterprise. 
 It took but a few minutes to make our preparations for de- 
 parture, and to get together all that we would need for the 
 trip: a camera, two well-tested aneroid barometers, and a 
 meagre lunch of hard ship's biscuit and compressed "emer- 
 gency ration." We rowed over to Ford's house, and set out 
 from there at 9.50. The first mile of our way was to the 
 westward, across the alluvial flat at the base of Mt. Ford. 
 Its rich, moist soil, and the lower slopes of the mountains 
 rising out of it, were covered thickly with a sub-arctic autum- 
 nal vegetation. The poverty of animal Hfe was in great con- 
 trast with this wealth and variety among the plants. We had 
 seen during our stay hardly anything except noisy ravens and 
 hawks, and a small brown-and-white variety of owl. 
 
 Our route led us over the boggy level, around numerous 
 diminutive ponds, along a slightly higher and drier grassy 
 mound, through thick willow clumps lining a brook, and 
 thence to the beginning of the uplands of the Goratsuk val- 
 ley, where we turned to the north. A much-beaten trail, 
 leading to Komaktorvik, another bay farther north, guided 
 us over a part of the way, but we lost it in a short stretch of 
 boggy land and rocks. Beyond us the valley rose gradually
 
 Ii6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 for a couple of miles, where it was blocked by a group of 
 hills of considerable height. These we might pass either by 
 keeping close to the stream, flowing in a deep gorge to their 
 left, or by following up a secondary valley to a depression on 
 their right, connecting the hills with a flank of Mt. Ford. 
 At first we chose the former alternative, passing over a 
 gradually rising plain covered thickly with grass and moss. 
 But, after nearly reaching the base of the hills, we concluded 
 that we would probably gain by taking the pass to the right. 
 So we cut across in that direction, crossed a small brook, and 
 then went up onto a low shoulder of the hills; whence we 
 turned again north up the new valley, keeping on the slopes 
 some distance above the stream. At the head of the valley 
 was a steep, stony incline, rising to a narrow boulder-strewn 
 pass, a coJ between two peaks, low-lying offshoots from Mt. 
 Ford. 
 
 We climbed the westward peak in order to get a survey 
 of our further route. Its height was 1,350 feet, its distance 
 from our starting point *about five miles. Behind us, the 
 Goratsuk valley stretched down to Nachvak Bay. In front, 
 the further slope of the col descended steeply as a short, stony 
 valley, debouching into the valley of the Shenukatik. The 
 latter lay stretched out to our right, separating Mt. Ford 
 from another, which, because of a prominent waterfall near 
 its base in the middle of the flank it presented toward us, we 
 afterward named Fall Mountain. This was broad and 
 rounded at the top. Above and beyond it rose two or three 
 snow-sprinkled and cloud-capped peaks, one of which we 
 hoped to climb ; though it was now evident that we could not 
 tell which would best serve our purpose without first ascend- 
 ing Fall. On the farther side of the Goratsuk, to the north-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 117 
 
 west, the land rose in a series of remarkable terraces. These 
 were afterward discovered by Dr. Daly to be of glacial origin. 
 
 From our lookout we descended across the col and then 
 crossed diagonally, up and down over low, outlying spurs of 
 Mt. Ford, in the direction of the waterfall. A few snow- 
 buntings flew about, and were the only signs of animal life. 
 We had here just the right mingling of rocks and vegetation 
 to make walking easy and rapid. We reached the river, 
 whose height at that point was 1,200 feet. Below us it 
 tumbled over rapids and through a narrow rocky bed. 
 Where we were, and for a long distance above, it spread out 
 wide and shallow, with an archipelago of small flat-topped 
 stones projecting just above its surface and lying so close 
 together as to form easy stepping-stones across. To our 
 right, at the eastern end of the valley, was a picturesque series 
 of jagged brown mountains. It was not far from there, over 
 slightly rising rocky ground, to the foot of the waterfall, 
 which we judged to be about two miles from our recent out- 
 look point. Here we stopped for half an hour for lunch. 
 The waterfall was just above us, dashing in one sweep down 
 about 250 feet, and thence in a series of little tumbles into a 
 pool of the clearest and greenest possible water. A little 
 further up the valley we could see a large lake, apparently 
 about a mile in length, so shallow in its middle portion that 
 a group of boulders projected above its surface. 
 
 On resuming our journey, we crossed the brook and 
 scrambled straight up the cliffs for two or three hundred feet. 
 Then we climbed slowly, diagonally, toward the eastern end 
 of Fall Mountain, over steep, rocky slopes, a mass of frost- 
 hewn fragments of varied sizes. There were no large boul- 
 ders until we found a group of them near the end. For
 
 ii8 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 some reason, either because of the nature of the materials, 
 or because of the greater severity and longer action of the 
 frost, the mountain tops here are broken into much smaller 
 fragments than any with which I am familiar in New Eng- 
 land, as, for instance, the summits of the Presidential Range 
 in the White Mountains. At 2.30 we reached a point at a 
 height of 3,000 feet, whence we could see the peaks toward 
 which we had been struggling, and which until now had 
 been hidden from us by the curving sides of Fall Mountain. 
 We could see now that there were two of them lying close 
 together. Between them, and between Fall Mountain and 
 the more easterly of them, was a bare valley at whose bottom 
 met the talus slopes from both sides. It rose to a high col 
 just between the peaks themselves, beyond which black, 
 jagged ridges were visible; and descended toward the south 
 into the Shenukatik. The western peak, which we afterward 
 named Mt. Faunce, lay almost directly north of us, most of 
 its lower portions hidden by the curve in Fall Mountain. 
 The eastern peak, to which we gave the name Mt. Eliot, was 
 higher, and descended southward in a long, gradual slope 
 down to the Shenukatik valley. In the latter we could see 
 a series of lakes lying beyond the one we had discovered 
 before. At its eastern end was a very picturesque grouping 
 of serrate and of round-topped mountains. 
 
 The tops of our peaks were most of the time obscured 
 by fog. The day was turning out not so propitious as we 
 had hoped. We determined, however, to continue on our 
 way, for, if we could accomplish nothing more, we could at 
 least establish the height of the mountain. Mt. Eliot, as the 
 higher of the two, was the one we preferred to ascend. But 
 it lay farther off, the hour was late, and between us and it
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 119 
 
 was a deep valley into which we would first have to descend. 
 We could not yet see what would be the conditions in at- 
 tempting the other. So, before deciding on our final plans, 
 we moved on a little further, rounding the obstructing curve, 
 until we stood near the edge of a precipice that dropped 
 abruptly into the valley far below us. Here we could see 
 that it would be a matter of great difficulty to get down into 
 and across the valley to Mt. Eliot ; but that Mt. Faunce was 
 connected with Fall Mountain by a very sharp and narrow 
 bridge-like neck lying but very little below the summit of 
 the latter, and still above us. This decided us to select Mt. 
 Faunce as our objective point. It turned out later that this 
 was much the wiser plan; for from the slightly lower peak 
 we were able to estimate closely the height of the other ; the 
 view we obtained from the summit was without doubt very 
 similar and in no way inferior; and had we taken the more 
 distant one we would have been left at dark far from home, 
 with no protection from the coldness of the night, and in a 
 country where it would have been highly dangerous to con- 
 tinue walking in the darkness to keep warm. 
 
 It was now about 3 o'clock. We climbed up steeply 
 over the boulders on the projecting shoulder of Fall Moun- 
 tain, around its summit, and onto the narrow bridge to Mt. 
 Faunce. The height here was 3,400 feet, and the summit 
 of Fall was not more than a hundred feet higher. Thence 
 we went up a series of not very dil^cult slopes along an ex- 
 ceedingly narrow ridge that fell almost perpendicularly on 
 the west into a deep valley 2,000 feet below, and on the east 
 in sharp talus heaps to the valley separating it from Mt. 
 Eliot. The surface was of finely broken stone. Very little 
 scattered vegetation grew on it, and this was almost exclu-
 
 120 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 sively moss and lichen, with occasional individual plants of 
 grass and very rarely a small flowering- plant. Of the latter 
 I found not more than half a dozen varieties. Here and 
 there were patches of freshly fallen snow, but none of great 
 extent. 
 
 We attained the summit at 4.30. The barometer re- 
 corded the height as 4,400 feet.* Mt. Eliot, east of us, must 
 probably exceed 5,000 feet in height. The sky was wholly 
 overcast with low-lying clouds. At first we were completely 
 enveloped in fog, but this blew ofif occasionally, only to be 
 replaced by fresh banks of it rolling up from the south. 
 There were fortunately sufficient breaks to enable us to get 
 some photographs, and to give us glimpses of the magnificent 
 scenery about us. 
 
 The material of the mountain is the same as that of 
 which most of Labrador is formed : mainly hornblende gneiss, 
 cut here and there by dykes of darker trap. The summit is of 
 almost knife-like sharpness and very jagged. It is nearly 
 level for about a hundred yards, descends then slightly to 
 the north for a short distance, and then turns sharply east- 
 ward, and goes down by a series of steps to the valley. 
 Southward it descends gradually by the slopes we had as- 
 cended. The whole of its mass is a narrow ridge, falling 
 with great abruptness in dizzy precipices on the east and 
 west. Mt. Eliot is apparently almost exactly similar in its 
 nature, with a long slope to the south and sharp serrate 
 ridges descending northward from its summit and curving 
 somewhat westward, extending far beyond the limits of Mt. 
 Faunce. 
 
 * The barometric pressure at sea-level remained constant throughout 
 the day until after our measurements were taken; the latter, therefore, 
 required no correction.
 
 At .Muyford Tick! 
 
 A Cirou]) of I-lskinios at lkl)i"iin.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 121 
 
 North of us and eastward, much nearer apparently than 
 'Nachvak, was the beautiful indented and island-broken bay 
 of Komaktorvik. From the head of the bay a broad valley, 
 holding a large river in its midst, extended far to the west. 
 A little west of north, not far beyond us, and cutting ofif a 
 portion of the valley of Komaktorvik, was another detached 
 lofty mountain. Beyond this and the valley on the north 
 were peaks whose summits were concealed by a continuous 
 low blanket of clouds. Far off to the northwest was the 
 Torngaets range,* stretching from the Atlantic side across 
 toward Ungava Bay, its beauty similarly half-concealed. An 
 enormous raised plateau lay between the Komaktorvik val- 
 ley and it. To the westward, beyond the Goratsuk valley, 
 and again more to the south, were impressive groups of moun- 
 tains, some of which seemed to us to rise probably to the 
 height of seven or eight thousand feet. Immediately south, 
 a thousand feet below, was the broad mass of Fall Mountain, 
 and beyond it Ford Mountain, and still beyond the grand 
 collection of mountains on the other side of Nachvak, with 
 some of which we had made close acquaintance on our walk 
 from Hebron. East of Ford, southeast and east from us, a 
 range, at first round-topped and further on more sharp and 
 jagged, limited our view and doubtless bordered on the sea. 
 
 At last we turned regretfully away and started to retrace 
 our course. It was then 5.30. We went down the ridge, 
 up around the summit of Fall Mountain to the right, across 
 its broad top, and down over its broken rocks as rapidly as 
 
 * So designated on Weiz's map, for which see Packard's Labrador 
 Coast, p. 226. Daly proposes the appropriate term "Torngat Range" as 
 the name for the entire mountain system between Hebron and Cape 
 Chidley, which he regards as a structural and orographic unit.
 
 122 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 we could. On the way I found a pair of caribou antlers that 
 had been shed far up the mountain side, and took them along 
 with me. A brown Arctic owl flew about us in the twilight. 
 We passed the waterfall on its right bank at seven. We had 
 soon crossed the river on the stepping stones, and then has- 
 tened rapidly, with much climbing up and down over inter- 
 vening ridges, to the col at our outlook point of the morning. 
 Thence we retraversed our path to the broader Goratsuk val- 
 ley at the end of this branch, often almost running in order 
 to cover as much distance as possible before dark. We had 
 not reached the end of this valley, however, before it became 
 so dark that we could no longer direct our course by distant 
 landmarks, and had to go slowly and carefully because even 
 the ground at our feet was but dimly distinguishable. We 
 tried to regain the beaten trail, but were unsuccessful. Bear- 
 ing to the west end of the valley in the search for it, we got, 
 as we thought, closer onto the bank of the Goratsuk than we 
 had been on the outward journey, and among a difficult 
 collection of unrecognized slopes, cliffs, and tributary brooks. 
 So we climbed up a little higher again, away from the river, 
 and then went on down over steep rocks until we thought 
 we were near the bay. At one place we came to the edge of 
 a vertical cliff, down which we had to lower ourselves with 
 great care by aid of hand-holds and foot-holds far apart. It 
 was exciting work, made doubly interesting because in the 
 darkness it involved a considerable element of danger. Be- 
 fore we were entirely off these rock-ribbed slopes we caught 
 the welcome gleam of a lighted window at Ford's house, but 
 soon lost it again as we descended. 
 
 Finally we decided that we were low enough down, and 
 so turned eastward, guiding our course by the summits on
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 123 
 
 the farther side of the bay, which were now clearly outlined 
 against the dark sky. We found ourselves immediately in 
 a dense tangle of willows. Through these we struggled with 
 great difficulty for a long while, frequently encountering new 
 masses of them, and finding our way blocked at intervals 
 by pools, around which we had to circle. It was hard and 
 discouraging work, the worst of the entire day. But it was 
 only an instance of that extremity of tribulation that so often 
 precedes relief. We reached the grassy mound near Ford's 
 at last, saw the guiding light once more, and at 9.40 had ar- 
 rived at the house. 
 
 V. 
 
 SCENERY OF THE ATLANTIC COAST OF LABRADOR. 
 
 A detailed description has already been given of the mag- 
 nificent scener}^ betwen Hebron and Nachvak, and in the 
 vicinity of the latter bay. An attempt will be made here to 
 give a general characterization of the scenic attractions of 
 the country as a whole, and of its variety in different locali- 
 ties. 
 
 Labrador lies directly north of Newfoundland, the two 
 being separated by the Straits of Belle Isle, which are 26 
 miles wide at the eastern end and nine and one-half miles at 
 the narrowest part. It is comprised between the parallels 
 of 51° and 61° of north latitude. The Atlantic coast line has 
 an extent of about 800 miles. It is lined throughout its 
 entire extent by mountains that approach close to the sea- 
 coast, often rising in steep clififs directly out of the ocean. 
 In the southern part of the country the heights increase as 
 one goes inland, until they reach a tableland in the interior
 
 124 Report of the Brozun-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 with an elevation of 1,500 feet or more, which forms the water- 
 shed for all the rivers.* Further north the mountains are 
 highest close to the coastline itself, or but a very few miles 
 inland. t They begin at the south with heights of from two 
 to seven hundred feet, increase gradually to a medium height 
 of three to four thousand feet in the vicinity of Port Man- 
 vers, and then rapidly become still higher until the greatest 
 elevations, of probably six to nine thousand feet, are attained 
 at almost the extreme north, between Nachvak and Cape 
 Chidley.:|: The height of these mountains, their immediate 
 contact with the sea, and the absence of forests that might 
 conceal their broken outlines, all contribute to make them the 
 basal feature of a coastal region whose picturesqueness is 
 rarely surpassed. 
 
 There are comparatively few rivers of any extent on this 
 Atlantic side, most of the larger ones draining in other direc- 
 tions. The nearness of the mountain S3^stem to the water 
 on the east prevents the merging of large numbers of moun- 
 tain Streams into one river of any size. A single exception 
 exists in the Qase of the Grand or Hamilton River, which has 
 its rise in the tableland of the interior and flows into Hamil- 
 
 * "The interior country is undulating, and is traversed by ridges of 
 low, rounded hills, that seldom rise more than 500 feet above the general 
 surrounding level. . . . The general level of the interior plateau, . . . near 
 the central water-shed, varies from 1,600 to 1,800 feet." (Low, Annual 
 Report, Geol. Sum. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896, p. 21 L.) 
 
 t "This mountain range appears to be confined to the coast region and 
 probably is under fifty miles in width, the country on the western side 
 sloping rapidly down to the level of the interior plateau." (Low, he. cit., 
 p. 23 L.) 
 
 t These highest elevations are differently estimated by different 
 authorities. Koch {Deutsche Geogr. Blactter, Vol. VII, No. 2, 1884; see 
 Science, Vol. XI, 1888, p. 77fi) gives them as 8,000 to 9,000 feet; Bell 
 (Report Geol. and Nat. Hist. Surv. Can., Vol. I, 1885, p. 8 DD) as 6,000 
 feet. Low (loc. cit.) follows Bell.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 125 
 
 ton Inlet. Its fame rests chiefly on the fact that on it are 
 situated the Grand Falls, over which an enormous volume 
 of water drops a distance of over 300 feet.* Henry G. 
 Bryant, of Philadelphia, who explored them in 1891, writes 
 concerning them : "The Grand Falls of Labrador, with their 
 grim environment of time-worn, archaic rocks, are one of 
 the scenic wonders of this Western world, and if nearer civ- 
 ilization would be visited by thousands of travelers every 
 year. They are nearly twice as high as Niagara, and are 
 only inferior to that marvelous cataract in breadth and vol- 
 ume of water." 
 
 Numberless shallow lakes, tarns, and pools are scattered 
 all over the country, covering, it has been estimated, at least 
 a quarter of the entire surface. f The coastline is exceedingly 
 irregular, indented by many deep harbors and fiords, one of 
 which, Hamilton Inlet, extends for 150 miles inland. Count- 
 less small, rocky islands line the greater part of the coast, ex- 
 tending out from it to a distance of five to twenty-five miles, 
 and affording safe inside runs and secure harbors for the fish- 
 ing fleet, as well as adding greatly to the attractiveness of the 
 scener\^ The soil is everywhere thin and unadapted to the 
 purposes of agriculture, although the missionaries who live 
 here always succeed in raising some of the hardier vegetables 
 and flowers at the expense of great labor and care. But the 
 country is by no means all bare. A plenteous vegetation 
 adorns the land in summer, composed of grass, moss, and a 
 
 * Low (loc. cit., p. 141 L) gives the height as 302 feet; Bryant (Journey 
 to the Grand Falls, Phila. Geogr. Club, Bulletin No. 2, p. 32) as 316 
 feet. 
 
 t Low (loc. cit., p. 23 L) ; but this applies to the whole country ex- 
 tending west to Hudson's Bay, instead of being confined to the h'mits 
 of Labrador proper as they are now defined.
 
 126 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 large variety of Arctic flowering plants, some of which are 
 of great beauty. 
 
 Glaciation, submergence, and erosion have together 
 molded into their present form the original rock-masses of 
 the country. These are almost everywhere com.posed of the 
 so-called Laurentian gneiss, cut by intrusions of volcanic 
 trap. In some places, however, sedimentary rocks appear, 
 as in the vicinity of Pomiadluk, of Mugford, and of Ramah. 
 The ice of the glacial epoch ground down these rocks, 
 rounded the summits, and furrowed out deep valleys and 
 fiords. "The movement of the ice followed the general slope 
 of the country outward in all directions from a central gath- 
 ering ground, or neve, and the thickness of the ice was such 
 that in its flow it passed over ridges and valleys unchanged, 
 or with only slight deflections."* The higher summits alone, 
 in the northern part of the country, were unaffected by the 
 ice-sheet. After or during the glacial period, the whole 
 country sank, and the sea consequently rose to a higher level 
 on its shores. Now the land is rising again and stands from 
 two to four hundred feet higher than at the period of its 
 greatest submergence. This gradual uplift has left on all 
 the lower slopes clearly marked evidences of the former 
 levels of the sea. Meanwhile the surface has been broken 
 up and diversified by frost and flood. To a large extent these 
 activities have left the hills and mountains with rounded sum- 
 mits and gradual slopes, both among the lower elevations 
 of the south and the more massive structures of the north. 
 Sometimes, however, other characteristic erosive forms apn 
 pear, such as the rocJies moutonnees of Pomiadluk, the round 
 or pyramidal summits bounded by vertical cliffs at Mugford, 
 
 * Low, loc. cit., p. 290 L.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 127 
 
 the "house-roof" formations near Saglek, and the narrow ser- 
 rate ridges of the Kiglapait near Manvers, and of some of 
 the ranges at Nachvak. 
 
 Particularly marked is the contrast betwen the lower 
 surfaces of the south and the bolder, steeper, often more in- 
 tricately-sculptured ridges that begin north of Port Man- 
 vers. In the more southerly portions the coastline, as we 
 have seen, is broken into numerous irregular bays and in- 
 dentations, its waters crowded with hosts of small islands, and 
 its mainland rising into a continuous series of low^ elevations. 
 These hills may slope up gradually from the water or present 
 precipitous cliffs rising with sharp directness. In one or two 
 rare localities sandy beaches take their place, smooth and 
 hard, usually of small extent but attaining a considerable mag- 
 nitude at the Strand near Cape Porcupine. The slopes are 
 usually humpy with irregular projecting naked rocks in the 
 midst of vegetation ; but occasionally they take on special 
 shapes, such as the frequently-occurring raised beaches, 
 sometimes of small pebbles and rarely of large boulders, that 
 give evidence of their former submergence ; smooth, grassy 
 ascents, that are seldom seen ; or the roches moutonnees 
 forms, so prominent at Pomiadluk. The seaward face is 
 varied not only by these rough irregularities of structure and 
 shaping, but also by the different coloring and behavior of its 
 different materials. The grayish gneiss, which is the main 
 rock of the country, softens into comparatively rounded con- 
 tours ; but the dykes of black volcanic trap that cut it every- 
 where are harder to the air and softer to the sea, and they 
 break into more angular and wild-seeming fragments. 
 Where other rocks occur, such as slates, sandstones, and con- 
 glomerates, the variety in coloring and contour becomes
 
 128 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 still greater. Gorges, chasms, sea caves, water courses, form 
 other elements in the total make-up, and all the elements 
 take on constantly differing groupings and variations. 
 
 Except for the sometimes precipitous sea walls, the hill 
 slopes, more inland, are almost always gradual, though 
 broken, scarred and seamed, affording a footing for an abun- 
 dant low vegetation. The sky line is never jagged, angular, 
 and steep. From the summits one looks inland over a 
 country made up of elements similar to those on the shore, 
 except that the steeper cHffs are absent.* Wide valleys 
 stretch out, sometimes of considerable extent, their bottoms 
 covered over thickly with soft, varicolored moss and other 
 growths. Out of them rise low hills, their sides pitted and 
 knobbed with projecting rock and plant-covered hollow. 
 Often every little depression is filled with pools of reddish 
 boggy water; small lakes and swampy bottoms fill in large 
 portions of the valleys ; and occasional ice-cold rills trickle 
 or foam among the hills. Toward the north, owing probably 
 to some difference in the perviousness of the soil, these pools 
 become less numerous. The views from the hilltops are 
 enchanting, embracing always a picturesque combination of 
 the peaceful inland rolling country, the feeding-ground of the 
 caribou ; of distant mountain tops, row behind row, with 
 snowy patches on their sides; of bays and harbors, capes and 
 
 * Compare the following description by Daly, on page 210 of his 
 report: "From any commanding hill on island or mainland, the eye 
 ranges far and wide over a surface showing everywhere the evidence of 
 universal and profound glaciation. Unobscured by forest, soil, or thick 
 drift, and singularly expanded because of the crystalline clearness of the 
 atmosphere, the view typifies that which may be had in the Laurentian 
 Highlands of Canada, or in the Archaean of the Scottish Highlands. It 
 is a great wilderness of innumerable rounded, ice-worn hummocks, gen- 
 erally gneissic in composition."
 
 K
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 129 
 
 promontories, presenting a much broken and indented coast- 
 line; and of the sea, covered often with scattered bergs and 
 ice-floes, and dotted with the numerous islands. 
 
 The interior is said to be well wooded and far from bar- 
 ren, even almost to the northern extremity. But near the 
 coast one rarely see trees of any notable size. At Hope- 
 dale and Nain there are small groves near the mission 
 stations ; but elsewhere we met them only deep in the bays 
 and in sheltered valleys a considerable distance — five or ten 
 miles at least — inland.* Thus, when not entirely lacking, 
 they form an unobtrusive feature in the usual landscape. 
 The low vegetation that predominates clothes the country 
 with a close green mantle, but leaves its shape and natural 
 outHne unconcealed. Inorganic nature reveals herself in her 
 own primeval character, leaving all the strength and charm 
 and variety that she can assume naked to observation. 
 There is little of softness, little of the attraction that vigorous 
 organic life can add ; though the green of the low plants, the 
 grays, reds, and browns of mosses and lichens, the blues and 
 whites and pinks and yellows of the flowers add a suggestion 
 
 * According to Low {loc. cit., p. 31 L) the limits of trees are as fol- 
 lows : "The tree-line skirts the southern shore of Ungava Bay and comes 
 close to the mouth of the George River, from which it turns south- 
 southeast, skirting the western foot-hills of the Atlantic coast range, 
 which is quite treeless, southward to the neighborhood of Hebron, in 
 latitude 58°, where trees are again found in protected valleys at the 
 heads of the inner bays of the coast. At Davis Inlet, in latitude 56°, 
 trees grow on the coast and high up on the hills, the barren grounds 
 being confined to the islands and headlands, which remain treeless to the 
 south of the mouth of Hamilton Inlet. These barren islands and bare 
 headlands of the outer coast, along with the small size of the trees of 
 the lowlands, have caused a false impression to be held regarding much 
 of the Atlantic coast, which from Hamilton Inlet southward is well tim- 
 bered about the head of the larger bays and on the lowlands of the small 
 river valleys."
 
 130 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 of this, yet in a way that never interferes with the stern 
 grandeur of the Hfeless masses. 
 
 The more northern landscapes differ from those thus 
 far described mainly in the facts that the greater heights at- 
 tained lead to grander impressions of massiveness and 
 strength, and involve greater ruggedness and variety of form ; 
 and that the softening influences of soil, water, and vegeta- 
 tion are present to a far less degree. Here nature introduces 
 us to her masterpieces of form. Deep fiords with steep, pre- 
 cipitous shores, break into the coast. Islands are few, and 
 the high land contends directly with the unbroken force of 
 the sea. The lofty summits are still often rounded, though 
 quite as often the conditions of erosion have been such that 
 they form long ridges of great sharpness and of jagged out- 
 line. The bays and streams have cut off huge portions of 
 the mountain sides, which fall sharply to the narrow valleys, 
 wherein masses of rough boulders are piled deeply, while 
 heaps of coarse talus form a steep transition between moun- 
 tain and hollow. The projecting buttresses of the flanks 
 often inclose huge basins or amphitheatres. The summits 
 are rent and shattered into bare heaps of broken stones and 
 boulders of all sizes. Plant life is still abundant on the lower 
 levels, but finds little hospitality on the bleak, higher slopes. 
 Watercourses are rarely visible at any distance. Snow is 
 seen in summer only in numerous large drifts and patches, 
 never covering even the loftiest mountains continuously. 
 From the high latitude of the country, its position on the 
 cold side of the ocean, and the great altitude of its moun- 
 tains, one might naturally expect to find the snow-line at a 
 comparatively low elevation. The reason for its absence 
 doubtless lies in the small amount of annual precipitation, the 
 winter's snowfall not exceeding five or six feet.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 131 
 
 The more southerly part of the coast, with its lower hills 
 and many islands, is full enough of beauty and attractiveness. 
 But the northern part is indescribably magnificent. It is 
 hard to imagine any coastal scenery possessing greater im- 
 pressiveness and grandeur than is afforded by the serrate 
 ridges and great rounded basins of the Kiglapait; the steep 
 clilTs crowned by the rounded summits of Mugford; the 
 strange symmetry of Bishop's Mitre; the intricate recesses 
 of Saglek Bay, shut in by lofty walls that descend from the 
 worn summits above it ; and the massive mountains that 
 crowd together in so great richness of form and grouping 
 about Nachvak. 
 
 ^ The charm of a landscape is never exhausted by the con- 
 formations of its surface alone, with its attendant growths 
 and other accidents. There are subtler influences of atmos- 
 phere and sky, of changing brightnesses and shades, of shapes 
 and colorings varying with the time of day, of transforma- 
 tions wrought by evening light, that are as important to its 
 total effect as are the more delicate bouquets to the flavor of 
 rare wines and fruit. Many of these finer elements are the 
 same in nature and give rise to similar impressions in Labra- 
 dor as elsewhere. A mere mention of them is enough to 
 convey a realization of their significance. Some special 
 words may be devoted, however, to the more striking and 
 less commonly distributed among them. 
 
 The sea contributes a number of effects of especial inter- 
 est. Thus, mirage is of not infrequent occurrence, and is 
 said by the Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot to be "charac- 
 teristic of the few fine days of summer" off the Labrador 
 coast. The fishermen call it "loom." It may be caused by 
 distant low-lying mists, or by heated strata of air. The latter 
 were sometimes clearly visible in certain directions over the
 
 132 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 water, distorting the horizon, or as a thin streak above the 
 calm surface between us and some not far-off island. 
 Schooners and icebergs frequently thus appeared doubled or 
 tripled, 'in the latter case with the middle image inverted; 
 and with the images sometimes overlapping or sometimes 
 placed one high above the other. During a portion of the 
 season ice-floes are abundant, adding greatly to the pic- 
 turesque appearance of the sea. For the most part, they are 
 low and flat, composed of pans of various sizes that may be 
 crowded closely together, or at other times dot the water 
 only here and there. Occasionally they are higher, and are 
 then curiously carven by sun and sea into varied shapes, 
 abounding in caves and pillars and overhanging shelves. 
 The green of this ice when seen through the water, the 
 deep transparent blue of its unsubmerged fresh surfaces, and 
 the pure dazzling whiteness of all portions that have been 
 exposed longer to the air, fully justify the enthusiasm of 
 those who have described its coloring. Icebergs may be 
 met with at almost any time and in any number. Their lofty, 
 rugged shapes and great masses are full of variety and im- 
 pressiveness. On sunny days the kittiwakes and other sea 
 fowl may be seen resting on their sides. Once, as we drove 
 rapidly through thick weather, the fog cleared suddenly and 
 revealed an enormous castellated berg almost directly in our 
 path, standing out against a rough, rocky island; and on 
 many other occasions we met them, though rarely under such 
 picturesque circumstances. 
 
 In the evening the phosphorescence of the water is often 
 very marked and striking. The ship moved through streaks 
 of cold fire and left a burning sea in its wake. Fish awakened 
 by the disturbance darted ofT, invisible themselves, but leav-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 133 
 
 ing trails of dim, twinkling light. Occasionally a bird also 
 would be aroused from his slumbers on the water and fly 
 across in front like a dim shadow. When we were rowing, 
 the water "burned" brightly at the bow and along the sides, 
 and each dip of the oars made a spot as clear as moonlight. 
 
 Another beautiful phenomenon of the night time peculiar 
 to these high latitudes is the aurora borealis. We witnessed 
 a large number of brilliant displays, of some of which, occur- 
 ring during our overland trip, descriptions have already been 
 given. Of two others I have the following notes:' "It 
 started with a few faint streaks in the north and east. Then 
 the streamers shot up further, in changing, quivering waves. 
 Great curved ribbons of silvery light developed overhead, 
 with long streamers reaching thence to the horizon in various 
 directions. Then it gradually faded away." "There was 
 another beautiful auroral display last evening, similar in its 
 marvelous light and rapid activity to that of August 21. The 
 unearthly light danced quickly to and fro, weird and mys- 
 terious. It twisted itself into curves and spirals, shot out 
 into bands and streamers, formed ribbons of vertical pickets. 
 These were constantly forming fresh combinations, and 
 along their varied lines fllew waves of quivering, almost living, 
 undulations." To these, to complete the impression of the 
 evening splendors of Labrador, may be added this, descrip- 
 tive of a row across the harbor at Nain : "It was one of the 
 remarkably perfect nights that surely no more southern 
 country can surpass. The moon, not yet three-quarters old, 
 was just rising, sending a gleam of gold across the still water 
 of the harbor. The stars shone brightly, a pale aurora glim- 
 mered across the sky, and the water burned under the oar 
 strokes. With its setting of quiet hills the picture was ideal."
 
 134 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 The colors of sunrise and sunset that occurred during 
 our voyage were rarely of any particular beauty. In general 
 they were cold and gray, or, at most, appeared in yellow 
 and violet hues on the hills, or in rosy streaks on the horizon. 
 But of one remarkable sunrise I wrote down a description 
 immediately after its occurrence, which I cannot forbear re- 
 producing here. Its date was August 17, while we were 
 sailing from Mugford to Hebron : 'T was called at four 
 o'clock to take my turn at the watch with Harry. We were 
 rewarded by an exceptionally brilliant sunrise. The scene 
 of the performance was framed in by two low islands. Be- 
 tween them lay a bank of clouds, tapering into a thin, long 
 point toward the north, lying close down on the horizon. 
 Above that was a clear space of sky, and then a large group 
 of clouds that formed part of a general massing covering a 
 large proportion of the sky. Directly overhead the clouds 
 could be seen to be thin and fleecy, stretching downward so 
 that their lower parts were at no great altitude. The first 
 signs of the approaching splendors were already apparent 
 when I came on deck. The lower edge of the upper of the 
 tw^o cloud banks was fringed wath a reddish-purple, above 
 which the dull slate of the unillumined surface stretched 
 everywhere. Soon this purple brightened into a clear crim- 
 son, w'hich gradually mounted higher on the bank until it 
 reached the top, and thence shaded downward into orange 
 hues. Meanwhile the lower bank had assumed the deep red- 
 purple on its under edge, while all the rest of it was a very 
 dark blue-purple. Immediately overhead the fleecy mists 
 were white, and between them and the horizon, and here and 
 there in the midst of the illumined field, dull slate prevailed. 
 The orange band lining the upper bank brightened ; the
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 135 
 
 crimson spread forth wider; the red encroached upon the 
 blue in the purple of the lower cloud, until it became a mesh 
 of fire. The clear sky between the two banks assumed a 
 light olive-green hue. In it small detachments from the 
 larger clouds made stars and fleecy fringes of orange. A 
 narrow bar of gold shone just above the lower purples. The 
 dark masses of the two islands, curving together just under- 
 neath, framed in a picture of wonderful coloring. The crim- 
 son crept higher and wider, and lighted up the low-hanging 
 edges of the clouds above us, reaching finally around to the 
 farthest west. Broad bands of brighter light began to radi- 
 ate out from the centre of illumination, exactly as the con- 
 ventional picture always represents the rising sun, the reverse 
 of the shadows on far-off mist that are popularly supposed 
 to be 'the sun drawing water.' Into the struggle for su- 
 premacy of the two purples in the low-lying bank entered a 
 new element, a tangle of living gold. After this the blues 
 gained over the reds in the duller purples below ; the crimson 
 gave place to yellow; the line of gold on the higher bank 
 broadened and brightened ; the variety in coloring gave place 
 to increasing illumination, until at five o'clock a narrow open- 
 ing directly on the horizon, in the centre and bottom of the 
 almost meeting curves of the islands, gave a glimpse of the 
 sun's burning gold, and soon his disc had struggled above 
 the lower obstacles and gleams of cold sunshine fell on the 
 ship and the dark faces of the furrowed cliffs of the shore." 
 
 In concluding this characterization of the scenery of 
 Labrador, I cannot better emphasize the preceding account 
 of its peculiarities than by giving from my diary a few ex- 
 tracts descriptive of particular localities. 
 
 Of the islands north of the entrance to Hamilton Inlet,
 
 136 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expeditian. 
 
 July 24: "The islands, as we approached, though not very- 
 high, yet presented a very picturesque appearance, mainly 
 due to ragged, angular, narrow dykes of trap protruding 
 through the rounded softer rocks. Packard says of this 
 region : It 'is in places very high and rugged, owing to the 
 presence of trap dykes and ancient volcanic overflows cap- 
 ping the hills of gneiss. Huge dykes of the black rock rail 
 in ruflfled crests over the hills of pale, gneiss-Hke, huge black 
 walls. . . . Owing to the great outbursts of black basalt cap- 
 ping the light gneiss hills, and running in ridges or forming 
 great splashes on the faces of the hills, and sometimes entire 
 hills, like craters, the hills are transformed from what would 
 otherwise be quite tame elevations into high, bold, wild- 
 looking peaks.' Except for these black intrusions, with 
 their irregularly broken outlines, the hills were rounded and 
 green with vegetation; but .the green was not that of our 
 own wooded hills, but a close-lying tinge of color, with bare 
 rocks and cliffs projecting through it." 
 
 Of a chasm on one of the Seal Islands, September 20: 
 "After anchoring, we went ashore on Long Island. Its most 
 remarkable feature is a deep chasm extending almost the 
 entire width of the island, narrow, with steep, straight walls, 
 between which the breakers roll noisily at the bottom." 
 
 Of Pomiadluk, July 30 : "We found a country that well 
 repaid us in its interesting features and wild grandeur. A 
 mountain range rises up from the shore where we landed, 
 and we climbed one peak which, by Daly's barometric read- 
 ings, was 1,170 feet in height. It rises in two slopes: the 
 lower one fairly gradual, with a level plain at its top half a 
 mile in width at a height of 390 feet, and then a much steeper 
 upper slope above it. The appearance of this mountain is
 
 Mountain Ciroup al XullalarUik ( Raniah May); lookins;- nnrlli. 
 
 Siuitli SIkuh' of Xacli\ak l>av. near tlu- Xarrcjw:
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 137 
 
 vastly different from anything we have previously seen. The 
 whole lower slope is made up of long, smooth, rounded ridges 
 of massive rock, absolutely bare of vegetation, with deep 
 fissures between them in which soil and vegetation have 
 gathered. The long axis of these rocks runs nearly north- 
 west and southeast, sloping downward toward the southeast. 
 A cross section at right angles to the long axis shows a 
 gradual slope up the southwest side, a rounded top, and a 
 steep dip toward the northeast. This is the shape char- 
 acteristic of what are called roches moutonnees, and is due 
 to glacial action, the ice having moved in the northeast di- 
 rection down the slope of the mountain. We found many 
 glacial strife marking its course, and an abundance of the 
 lunoid markings mentioned by Packard, whose origin is still 
 a matter of dispute. We found them even up to the very 
 top of the peak, much higher than they have previously been 
 seen. They run in Httle, straight groups, taking the same 
 direction as the strije. . . . The material of most of the rocks 
 is of volcanic origin : diabase, granites, etc. ; but there occurs 
 also a large amount of metamorphic conglomerates, with 
 beautifully exposed surfaces, the large green and pink peb- 
 bles within it having become greatly flattened under enor- 
 mous pressure. These conglomerates are the first we have 
 found in Labrador. 
 
 "The whole of the lower slope has been submerged, and 
 the sea has washed out most of the glacial drift between the 
 ridges of rock. Daly found raised beaches up to 360 feet, 
 showing that this region has been raised up much higher than 
 those further south. In one place is an enormous gorge with 
 steep, wild cliffs on its sides, in which hawks have their nests, 
 and with its floor covered with small boulders. It belongs
 
 138 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 to a beach 250 feet high. The extent of the slopes thus 
 formed must be several miles in breadth, and a mile or more 
 in upward direction. The higher rocks on this lower slope 
 are more rough, broken, and weatherworn, interspersed with 
 a great deal more of vegetation ; and some large stretches 
 exist where an abundant soil and its growths reach down 
 close to the sea. But a very large proportion of these lower 
 rocks are as smooth as if the sea had just receded from them, 
 are almost as bare of vegetation, and are tumbled together in 
 huge masses, ridge rising above ridge, of a perfect hummocky 
 shape. This part of the mountain presents a magnificently 
 impressive landscape. 
 
 "The intervening plain, perhaps half a mile in width in 
 places, is composed of a pebbly floor covered with charac- 
 teristic Arctic vegetation. A number of small ponds lie upon 
 it. It may have been formed by sea action, thus marking the 
 upper limits of submergence ; or it may be the washings down 
 from the higher parts of the mountain. From it the final 
 peaks rise steeply. They are composed of rocks of the same 
 hummocky formation as below, but have their outlines much 
 softened, both because of the greater steepness and because 
 the sea has never risen over them to remove the glacial de- 
 posits. We found a number of long, steep snow drifts, which 
 were of assistance in climbing up. As we approached the 
 top. a rosy tinge on dark leaden clouds showed that the sun 
 was not yet set. A few gentle showers fell before we de- 
 scended. From the top the view was a wonderful one. Just 
 under the peak beyond us was a large lake, probably nearly 
 half a mile in diameter, containing an island, and with a few 
 jutting points reaching into it. In the northwest, though it 
 was already nine o'clock, the sun was just setting in a bank
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 139 
 
 of clouds, and other clouds above it were lighted with long 
 bands of brilliant gold and rose. A ruddy light gleamed over 
 the whole surface of the lake. To the north and west rose 
 groups of higher mountains, range behind range, with an 
 occasional lake or arm of the sea visible between them. The 
 farther ones were covered with a purple haze. To the south 
 and east was the sea, forming a long, irregular Hne at its 
 juncture with the mainland, and covered with the numerous 
 islands of the Adlavik group." 
 
 Of the view from a hill at Ford Harbor, August 8: 
 "The view is one of the most enchanting I ever saw. High 
 mountains most picturesquely grouped, islands without num- 
 ber dotting the sea, and a general combination that could 
 hardly be surpassed." 
 
 Of Port Manvers, August 11 and 12: "The mountains 
 hereabout are high and steep, very impressive in their ap- 
 pearance. They are made of very friable rock, forming 
 coarse gravel at their bases, and beaches of fine sand in the 
 protected bays. Mt. Thoresby, south of the Port, is 2,y2,i 
 feet high. It rises gradually on its southern slopes, but falls 
 very steeply, with much gullied sides, to the harbor. . . . 
 We traversed three miles of sandy beach, climbed a steep 
 rise to an enormous gravel plain that was once a shallow bar 
 connecting a rocky island to the mainland, but now lies 170 
 to 200 feet above the sea; then up the course of a brook, 
 across a damp, sogg}^ level where our feet sank deeply into 
 the soft moss and turf, and up steeply along another stretch 
 of the brook into a narrow valley lying between two round, 
 green hills perhaps 1,500 feet above the sea. . . . Thence 
 we climbed up the steep mountain side to the right, over a 
 precipitous snow bank, and onto the top. On one side,
 
 140 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 across the Port and stretching on beyond its head, were the 
 steep flanks and knurly sides of the Thoresby group ; on an- 
 other side the sea; and in front stretched out the deer coun- 
 try — a wide, level plain, filled with small lakes, and inter- 
 rupted by numerous low hills rising out of it like islands. 
 We could see around for many miles. A Labrador landscape 
 has decided charms of its own, in spite of the lack of trees. 
 Where the naked rocks project or cliffs fall steeply, they pro- 
 duce an impression of strength and grandeur. But the 
 country is not all made up of mountains and bare rocks. 
 Vegetation is abundant, and many of the rounded hills are 
 green with moss and grass. The low, thick scrub relieves the 
 closeness of the other growths, and produces a velvety im- 
 pression at a distance. The hilltops here are not bestrewn 
 with Httle pools, as we have found them in some places ; but 
 the lower ground has an abundance of water and thick,mossy 
 growths of many colors." 
 
 Of the Kiglapait, August 13: "The most striking 
 part of the coast we passed was the Kiglapait, a high ridge 
 a little north of Port Manvers, which the Pilot says is not 
 less than 2,000 feet in height. Daly, who is good at such 
 estimates, believes it to be about 3,800 feet in height. Its 
 summits are long and jagged, stretching out one after the 
 other in a long series.* They fall sharply to a long, low, 
 rounded hill lying in front of them on the seashore, and have 
 
 * See Daly, loc cit., pp. 218, 267 : "The axis of the range runs due 
 east and west, parallel to the coast line, which here has an exceptional 
 trend. The sierra is not more than thirty miles in length, but, on account 
 of its conspicuous position on the shore, is strikingly picturesque. Ten 
 distinct and individual summits from two thousand five hundred to four 
 thousand feet in height could be counted from the schooner. . . . The 
 Kiglapait is unmeasured, unmapped, and absolutely unknown as to com- 
 position."
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 141 
 
 a series of immense amphitheatres scooped out of their bar- 
 ren sides." 
 
 Of Cape Mugford and of Bishop's Mitre, August 15 and 
 16: "We are in a bight on the south side of Cape Mugford, 
 at the entrance to its Tickle. North of us lies a pair of re- 
 markable peaks. One of them has two smooth, round sum- 
 mits, the other a more irregular one, about 3,000 feet in 
 height. Below the summits the slope of the top ends ab- 
 ruptly in vertical cliffs, furrowed with perpendicular lines and 
 showing horizontal strata that curve downward at the east 
 end and dip steadily until they meet the sea. Except at this 
 end, a long slope of talus lies at the foot of the clififs, clifT and 
 talus together measuring probably a thousand feet. At the 
 lower end of the talus are other lesser cliffs, finally ending 
 in comparatively low, irregular hills at the water's edge. . . . 
 We found the cliffs inaccessible. Adams and I climbed to 
 1,225 ^"S^t 3,t the far western edge of the peaks, up to the foot 
 of the main talus. Between the two peaks we found an in- 
 curving gorge, the cliffs continuing throughout its whole 
 extent and joining together the two mountains. At its inner 
 angle a beautiful waterfall makes a drop of probably 250 feet, 
 and then runs off in a curving brook through the short valley. 
 . . . Nothing can be more delightful than a sunny Labrador 
 day in midsummer, especially at sea, away from the plague 
 of mosquitoes, and with stupendous scenery to gaze at with 
 its constant changes and developments. We got away about 
 nine o'clock, with very little wind. Our course lay through 
 the narrow Mugford Tickle, close by the foot of the cliffs 
 described yesterday and northward beyond. The views we 
 had of Cape Mugford on its different sides were grand 
 beyond description. We passed under its cliffs where they
 
 142 Report of the Brozvn- Harvard Expeditian. 
 
 drop most steeply directly into the sea. An occasional nar- 
 row waterfall foamed over their rugged sides. As we ap- 
 proached the northern end, the sea opened out again on 
 either side, and we had a repetition on a larger scale of similar 
 formations to those of the southern side. To the eastward, 
 four or five miles out at sea, lay the inaccessible peaks of 
 Nanuktut or White Bear Island. The mainland stretched 
 ofif irregularly to the northwest, with a multitude of sharp, 
 snowy peaks crowded along its length. As we progressed, 
 these came out one after another, showing deep gulches and 
 ravines between them and giving a series of most majestic 
 combinations. At the northern extreme of the Cape is the 
 Bishop's Mitre, which, from every point of view, is deeply 
 impressive. Its summit as we first saw it appeared to be a 
 single bare pyramid, which reminded us of the summit of 
 the Matterhorn. Up to its 3,000-foot base led in one place 
 a continuous steep slope uninterruptedly from the sea; but 
 elsewhere the descent, though various, was steeper. As we 
 got further north of it the companion of the first peak became 
 visible, the two together being responsible for its name. 
 Toward evening it appeared to greatest advantage. We 
 were then almost directly north of it, and from base to sum- 
 mit it presented an almost perfect symmetry. Above were 
 the twin pyramids ; on either flank was a massive buttress 
 stretching forward and outward, with a sharp downward 
 curve from the Mitre itself, and a shorter upward curve with 
 jagged outlines to the lesser peaks at the side. These fell in 
 sharp lines to the sea; and between them they held, backed 
 by the body of the mountain, an immense hollow basin, from 
 which, exactly in the middle, a line of snow ran up at the 
 angle at the back to the notch between the pyramids."
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 143 
 
 VI. 
 
 LIFE ON THE LABRADOR COAST, 
 
 The Atlantic coast of Labrador is probably ordinarily 
 considered bleak and almost uninhabited. In reality, it sup- 
 ports a considerable population. In our brief voyage it 
 was impossible for us to meet a very large proportion of the 
 inhabitants, or to study them with any large degree of thor- 
 oughness. The present account lays no claim, therefore, to 
 careful scientific accuracy and completeness, and does not 
 pretend to contain any new contributions of value to knowl- 
 edge. It aims rather to give the impressions we gained of 
 the people both from our personal contact with them and also 
 from the descriptions we received of them from missionaries 
 and others whom we met. These impressions may be inade- 
 quate in some respects, in consequence of the inadequacy of 
 our sources of information. Yet, even so, it will probably 
 be of interest to give such account as we can of the condi- 
 tions of life there as we found them or heard them described. 
 A considerable portion of this section has already appeared 
 in the Providence Sunday Journal, and is here reprinted with 
 permission, with a considerable amount of additional detail. 
 
 A thousand miles or more of desolate seacoast stretch 
 from St. John's, in Newfoundland to Nachvak, near the 
 northern end of Labrador. In the summer time it is 
 crowded with fishing schooners, whose crews toil laboriously 
 for their scanty winter suppHes. But in the winter, except 
 for a few widely-separated and lonely settlements of hardy 
 natives and whites, it is inaccessible, and given over to the 
 undisputed sway of ice and snow. 
 
 The visitor to these shores finds much to interest him. 
 
 \
 
 144 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expeditian. 
 
 If he be a lover of nature, he will find few more beautiful and 
 attractive regions than this, with its irregular coastline, di- 
 versified by rocky hills, imposing cliffs, and island-dotted 
 bays ; with its many-hued Arctic vegetation ; and in the north 
 with its deep fiords and huge mountain masses. If he be a 
 scientist, its plants, its geological formation and history, its 
 animal life, will give him plentiful opportunity for study and 
 new discovery. The sportsman will revel in brooks teeming 
 with trout, or may haply discover big game worthy of his 
 rifle. The mere traveler, seeking new sights and adven- 
 tures, will come away enthusiastic over the novelties of a 
 summer in the far north, where numberless icebergs, a bril- 
 liantly phosphorescent sea, a sky often alive with wonderful 
 quivering displays of auroral light, a season of continuous 
 autumnal comfort, and the strange, impressive landscapes 
 of a sub-arctic country, have given him a bountiful reward 
 for his journey. 
 
 Yet, after all, wherever one may go, it is the human life, 
 with its varieties and occupations, its differences from our- 
 selves, its triumphs, vicissitudes, and problems, that fur- 
 nishes the study of most absorbing interest. This is cer- 
 tainly true of Labrador. Simple, rugged, and primitive, like 
 the land they live in, its people present features of interest 
 alike to the psychologist, the anthropologist, the student of 
 social economy and conditions — and naturally, also, to the 
 practical philanthropist. 
 
 Eskimos. — Of the aboriginal inhabitants, aside from the 
 Indians of the southerly interior, there are now only about 
 ? thousand Eskimos along the Atlantic coast. From Hope- 
 dale southward most of them are of mixed blood ; but north 
 of there they are said to be almost entirely pure blooded. We
 
 Muutli of Kogarsuk (or Goratsuk ) Kiver. Nachvak Bay; looking 
 toward the Tallek. 
 
 I'lii.- Ifbsvuvak : llu- Soulhwcst Ann of Xachvak Bav.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 145 
 
 met them frequently north of Hopedale. Their present 
 southern Hmit is Hamilton Inlet, though in former times they 
 are reported to have spread as far south as Massachusetts. 
 They swarmed over our schooner, peering curiously into all 
 its recesses, and offering their simple possessions in exchange 
 for tobacco and clothing; and we met many of them in their 
 villages on shore. We find them here not in their original 
 crude condition, but greatly modified in dress, manners, and 
 customs by their long contact with white men. The Mora- 
 vians sent missionaries to these coasts more than a century 
 and a quarter ago. In consequence, the Eskimos who have 
 come under their influence have adopted many features of 
 civilized dress, implements, and beliefs. It is only further 
 north or west than we penetrated that we find them un- 
 changed. 
 
 The men look strong and sturdy. They are rather 
 short, seeming to average about five feet and a half.* Their 
 heads are very long from front to back, as compared with 
 their breadth; the cephalic index, according to the anthro- 
 pologists, averages about 75. Their faces are broad and 
 
 * Statements vary as to their height. Low (loc. cit., p. 52 L) says : 
 "The males, as a rule, are quite as tall as the average white man, but 
 owing to their broad, heavy build, they appear shorter than they really 
 are; and this appearance is enhanced by their wide garments of hairy deer 
 or seal skins. Where seen by the writer . . . several of the men were 
 six feet and upward in height, the average height being about six 
 feet five inches." Deniker (The Races of Man, 1900, p. 578) gives the 
 average height of twenty-six measured Eskimos of Labrador as five feet 
 two inches. Robert Brown {Encyd, Brit., VIII, 543) says they measure 
 five feet four inches to five feet ten inches, and in rare cases even six 
 feet. The cephalic index (Deniker, p. 587) is 76.8 for the living subject, 
 as measured on 614 Eskimos of Greenland; and for the skull has been 
 found to be 72.4 for 31 cases from Greenland, 71.3 for 152 cases from 
 Eastern America (measurements of Davis). They are said by Ripley 
 {Races of Europe, 1899) to be almost the longest headed race known.
 
 146 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 round, with projecting cheek-bones and prominent processes 
 at the upper end of the jaw. They are usually very fat. The 
 jaws, or at least the lips, are very apt to be rather protu- 
 berant. The eyes are narrow. The forehead, usually cov- 
 ered over with hair, is of medium height. The hair is 
 straight and jet black, except in the case of the old men, and 
 is worn long^ cut ofif straight below the ears and just above 
 the eyes; though some of the younger men wear it close-cut. 
 The beards are very thin, and often entirely wanting. When 
 there is little fat in the face the prominent bones, and the deep 
 wrinkles in old people, make it of very irregular outline. 
 The eyes and the complexion are always dark, but the latter 
 varies from the color of a moderate sunburn to a much deeper 
 brown. Where the skin is not exposed, however, it is ap- 
 parently as white or rosy as that of a white man. 
 
 The women closely resemble the men in their features. 
 Their black hair is done up in a coil on the head. Most of 
 them now wear skirts, especially when strangers are about, 
 though some of them still cling to deerskin trousers. One 
 feature of their original dress that they still retain, and that 
 serves by its different form to distinquish the men from the 
 women, is the jacket or attigi. It is a loose garment, fur- 
 nished with a hood for both sexes. It is cut square across 
 at the bottom for the men, but for the women ends below in 
 a curve or tail both in front and behind, the rear appendage 
 being much the longer. The hood is often bordered with 
 fur, and in the tase of the women bears more or less elaborate 
 ornamentation. These garments were doubtless made orig- 
 inally entirely of fur, but this has now been supplanted, in 
 summer at least, by a white, thick, flannel-like cloth supplied 
 by the missionaries. The hood of the women serves not only
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 147 
 
 as a head protection, but also as a convenient receptacle for 
 the babies. 
 
 These people are of an essentially sanguine tempera- 
 ment. Of course, they differ much from one another 
 individually, but there are many traits that are true of 
 them in general. They are naturally cheerful, merry, 
 and light-hearted. They are fond of song and music, 
 and have some skill in its production. They seem to 
 be often joking together; are jovial and good-natured, 
 with a well developed sense of humor. These sunny 
 qualities give place at times to darker moods. Quarrels 
 may arise; stealing may occur, though it is rare; murder 
 may be committed, but Mr. Ford, of Nachvak, has known 
 of the occurrence of only three cases. Their emotions are 
 apparently not deeply seated or persistent beyond the imme- 
 diate presence of the exciting cause. They are almost always 
 honest and peaceable, and friendly to the stranger. Warfare 
 is almost unknown among them. They naturally resent 
 injury, as when, as too often happens, the Newfoundland 
 fishermen encroach upon their fishing grounds or steal their 
 wood for huts; but they rarely resort to violence, and when 
 this occurs it is usually under the lead of some one with white 
 blood in his veins. They have an excellent reputation for 
 industry, are active, quick, enduring. Whenever we em- 
 ployed them, we found them willing and eager. They lay by 
 little for the future. When they have plenty they are pretty 
 sure to be generous, and a good hunter will support some- 
 times several families, the rest being content tO' live lazily 
 by the exertions of the one. They can be just as greedy as 
 they are generous, when circumstances are different. They 
 have a good average degree of intelligence — a high degree,
 
 148 Report of the Bromn-H award Expedition. 
 
 it would seem, when one considers the few solicitations to 
 thought and ingenuity in their environment; but their intelli- 
 gence is combined naturally with a great deal of superstition. 
 They are easily led, and their special character and actions 
 depend much on the nature of their leader. Yet they rarely 
 have any sort of government, but live together in tribal amity 
 with no chief or ruler unless one temporarily arises by virtue 
 of his own unusual gifts of wealth or wit. Where their primi- 
 tive ideas are not weeded out by the missionaries, however, 
 they are largely in subjection to their medicine men or sor- 
 cerers. 
 
 Where missionary influences prevail the marital relations 
 of the Eskimos are of the conventional civilized type, and 
 their sexual morality is of a high order. But further north 
 they vary much, each doing much as he likes and can. One 
 man may have three or four wives ; and at least one case is 
 known where two men have one wife in common. 
 
 The life of the Eskimos is one of hunting and fishing. 
 They live principally on a meat diet, consisting chiefly of seal, 
 whale, caribou, and fish. Berries are almost their only natu- 
 ral vegetable food, though now they obtain also flour and 
 bread wnth considerable ease. Formerly they did little cook- 
 ing, but now the introduction of civilized kettles makes it 
 easier. They place their main reliance on the seal, and it 
 is hard to imagine how they could continue to get along 
 without it. It gives them food, dog meat, clothing, boots, 
 tents, dog traces, and harpoon lines, fuel for light and heat. 
 They have little in the way of implements and possessions 
 except such as are needed for their hunting and fishing, for 
 clothing, shelter, and food. Once they lived very crudely, 
 with no implements except of stone, of bone, and of skins,
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 149 
 
 no fuel except seal oil, and no domestic animals except their 
 mag-nificent dogs. One still finds in old graves specimens of 
 these cruder implements formerly in use. But a hundred 
 years of contact with the white man have given them many 
 of his utensils and methods. A few useful articles remain 
 much as in the days before they knew the white man and his 
 ways. One of these is the kayak, a rapid and seaworthy 
 canoe made of skin, entirely decked over except for the round 
 hole in the middle in which its one occupant sits. Another 
 is their remarkable harpoon, whose barb detaches itself from 
 the handle when the animal is hit, and, being attached to a 
 float and drag, prevents the escape of their game. Still a 
 third is the komatik, or dog sledge, in which the only impor- 
 tant change has been the substitution of iron runners for 
 those of wood, bone or frozen mud formerly in use; though 
 runners of ivory or whalebone are also still used. 
 
 Most of the Eskimos now live in small communities of 
 not more than three or four hundred about the mission sta- 
 tions or the posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Usually 
 their crude houses are of wood covered over on the outside 
 with turf; though in some places they are entirely of wood. 
 In former times their central dwelling was constructed of 
 walrus or whalebones covered over with skins, or of an 
 underground excavation, or of a half-underground, half-over 
 ground framework of stones covered with turf. One still 
 sees remnants of such structures. They often leave these 
 more permanent dwellings, however, and go ofif, in the sum- 
 mer for fishing, in the winter for hunting or sealing. It is 
 only on these occasions that they now use their snow houses 
 in winter, and in summer their skin topeks or canvas tents. 
 
 The conditions of their life, with the continual necessity
 
 150 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 of warm clothing and shelter, and the difficulties of obtaining 
 warm water and soap, naturally render impossible any large 
 degree of cleanliness. Yet they tolerate a rather unnecessary 
 amount of filth and refuse in and around their dwellings, 
 which, with their utter disregard of ventilation, while less 
 offensive and less deleterious to their health than the same 
 conditions would be in a warmer climate, are nevertheless 
 harmful to a considerable extent. 
 
 Many of them have considerable skill in making carvings 
 of the ivory of walrus tusks. They do not, however, possess 
 the fine feeling for ornamentation and finish shown by their 
 Alaska kinsmen. This, together with their music, seems to 
 be their only art. Their language is highly polysynthetic, 
 single words of complex structure taking the place of whole 
 sentences. There is a remarkable similarity in its dialects 
 everywhere, from Siberia to Greenland. They differ hardly 
 more from each other than do English and broad Scotch 
 (Keane, Man, Past and Present, i8pp), in spite of the sepa- 
 ration of some of the tribes from each other for perhaps 
 thousands of years. 
 
 Moravian Missions and Hudson's Bay Company Posts. — 
 The most important centres of population in Labrador are 
 about these two classes of posts. The Moravians founded 
 Nain in 1771, Okkak in 1776, Hopedale in 1782. Later they 
 established missions at Zoar, Hebron, and Ramah. Recently 
 Zoar was given up, and in 1896 a new station was estab- 
 lished at Mokkovik. This last has no Eskimos about it, but 
 exists for the benefit of the settlers between Rigolet and 
 Hopedale. Okkak is their largest settlement, with about 
 300 Eskimos. Aside from Mokkovik, Ramah is the smallest, 
 with only 64 Eskimos. These stations carry on a consider-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 151 
 
 able amount of trading, in addition to their work of educating 
 and Christianizing the natives. We made acquaintance with 
 a number of the missionaries, at Hopedale, Nain, Hebron, 
 and Ramah. They live two or three together, with their 
 families, at each place. We found them kindly, earnest, 
 helpful men, who are doing a good work among the Eskimos. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company maintains a number of 
 posts along the Atlantic coast. We visited but one of them, 
 that at Nachvak. There were but very few Eskimos en- 
 camped about the bay — there are only about 80 in all be- 
 tween Ramah and Cape Chidley. George Ford, the agent, 
 has lived at Nachvak with his family since 1877. He has 
 few visitors. The company's steamer puts in twice a year. 
 Captain Bradford, who maintains a fishing station at Cape 
 Chidley, calls there occasionally, as does also Dr. Grenfell, 
 of the Medical Mission. Visits are usually interchanged 
 with Ramah each winter. But otherwise hardly any one 
 ever comes. Ours was the first schooner that had been there 
 for many years. 
 
 White Settlers and Summer Fishermen. — There are com- 
 paratively few permanent white settlers on the Atlantic coast, 
 aside from those connected with the above-mentioned posts. 
 The total number in Labrador, from Blanc Sablon, on the 
 shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to Cape Chidley, is given 
 by the Newfoundland census of 1891 as 3,106. But of these 
 probably not more than one hundred live north of Hamilton 
 Inlet. We met two as far north as Black Island, near 
 Port Manvers, and none beyond. They support themselves 
 by trapping and fishing. Their rude settlements, composed 
 of a few rough shanties and fishing stages, with possibly a 
 store and a church, are fairly numerous in the south; though
 
 152 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 more often there are only a few scattered houses, or, still 
 further north, entirely isolated homes. 
 
 Their character is well depicted by Low {loc. cit., p. 
 44 L), as follows : "In spite of lack of educational advan- 
 tages, nearly everybody can read and write, and all are very 
 religious. As alcoholic liquors are not openly sold on the 
 Labrador coast, cases of intoxication are exceedingly rare, 
 and many of the younger people do not know the taste of 
 alcohol. On the whole, these people compare favorably 
 with those of more civilized regions, being frugal, moral, 
 willing, good-tempered, and naturally intelligent. Their 
 only fault, want of thrift and providence, is largely due to 
 their mode of living, absence from any market of competitive 
 labor, and the system of credit and debt under which they 
 live." 
 
 In the spring and summer this sparse population has a 
 large accession owing to the temporary presence of a host 
 of fishermen from Newfoundland in search of seals or cod. 
 The census of 1891 gave their number as over 13,000, in- 
 cluding the women and children who go with them. A large 
 proportion of these, however, were on the gulf shore. In the 
 spring time, March and April, they go in large steamers for 
 the capture of seals on the ice ; in the summer they are there 
 in their schooners or in rude shelters on the land for cod; 
 and in the early fall they secure herring. Very few of those 
 who go down the Atlantic shore ever get beyond Nain or 
 Port Manvers. One venturesome man alone maintains a 
 fishing station at Cape Chidley all the year round, and goes 
 to it every summer in his steamer. These Newfoundlanders 
 are almost exclusively of English descent, with a queer, old- 
 time flavor to their speech, with an almost fanatic formal
 
 80 
 
 60 
 
 K^ 
 
 55 
 
 50-- 
 
 Qii 
 
 l-f- 
 
 SmU 
 
 .^.
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 153 
 
 piety and respect for the Sabbath, and with a rather unsavory- 
 reputation for wrecking their vessels in order to collect the 
 insurance on them. In the latter respect, however, it is 
 doubtless the few whose misdeeds darken the reputation of 
 the many. 
 
 General Conditions of Life. — Along the southern part of 
 the coast these numerous visitors and the regular fortnightly 
 trips of the mail steamer in summer give fairly good com- 
 munication with the outside world. But both mail and fish-' 
 ermen venture only a part of the way, and those who live 
 farther north see only the rare vessels of the missionaries and 
 of the trading company. The land is too cold and barren 
 to permit any occupations other than those of the hunter, 
 the fisherman, and the trader. The conditions of life are 
 therefore extremely simple, and are naturally in many re- 
 spects hard and often pitiful. The winters are long and cold, 
 while fuel and food to contend with their severity are scanty 
 and difficult to obtain. The struggle for bare subsistence 
 gives at the best so narrow a margin of surplus that a bad 
 season, or the loss of the supporting members of a family, 
 occasions frequent cases of absolute destitution. Neighbors 
 are few and far away. During the long periods when no 
 work is possible, with little stimulus in the way of books or 
 games, there must be a great dreariness to life; and dreari- 
 ness usually involves much of moral and intellectual debase- 
 ment. 
 
 Ignorance of hygienic and medical principles leads to 
 a great amount of suffering. Accidents often happen and 
 are always serious. Many a gunshot wound that under 
 proper treatment might have been easily healed has left the 
 only provider for a family a permanent cripple. At least one
 
 154 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 case is known of a father chopping off with an ax the legs of 
 his child, because they had become gangrenous as a result 
 of a frost-bite. Wounds, epidemics, and diseases of all kinds 
 are terrible misfortunes, and the loss of life, the blindness 
 and crippling, the suffering and destitution, that result from 
 them are considerable. Conditions in these respects are im- 
 proving, however, through influences yet to be mentioned. 
 
 There is still another unfortunate condition that leads 
 to much hardship. A large proportion of the people are 
 practically slaves to the traders, who charge outrageous 
 prices for supplies and give small returns for fish and furs. 
 The winter's provisions are often secured only at the price of 
 the next season's entire catch of fish. It naturally follows 
 that effort is discouraged, and the people become continually 
 more and more buried in debt, with all the demoralizing con- 
 sequences of such a condition.* 
 
 Thus, along with the more attractive phases presented 
 by this pioneer life, there is a large admixture of misfortune 
 and difficulty. A great deal of the latter is not incapable of 
 improvement, and there are several influences that tend to 
 raise conditions to a better level. The Moravian Missions 
 and the Hudson's Bay Company are civilizing forces. But 
 their trading policy is one that increases rather than relieves 
 the debt-slavery. Moreover, these missions are confined to 
 the Eskimo, and do not reach the other settlers. The most 
 promising and interesting feature connected with human ex- 
 istence in Labrador is furnished by the personality of Dr. 
 
 * This condition of debt-slavery and its evil results are mentioned by 
 several observers. Stearns (Labrador, 1884) speaks of the credit system 
 as a great source of misery to the Indians. Compare Low, loc cit., p. 42 
 L, 44 L.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 155 
 
 Grenfell, and the work of the mission of which he is super- 
 intendent. This is the Labrador Medical Mission, a branch 
 of the Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen. 
 
 TJie Labrador Medical Mission. — Nothing could be more 
 practical and truly helpful than the way this mission sets to 
 work. It is purely non-sectarian and reaches and is warmly 
 welcomed by Catholics and Protestants alike. Its aim is not 
 primarily the preaching of religion, though strong religious 
 influences of the best sort emanate from it in the most 
 efifective way possible, through the example and unselfish 
 helpfulness of its tireless workers. The direct object at 
 which it aims, and toward which it is making large progress, 
 is the uplifting of the people, both native and white, to a 
 higher grade of hygienic, social, economic, intellectual, and 
 moral development. 
 
 The first task attempted by this mission was that of pro- 
 viding medical and surgical aid. In this direction it has ac- 
 complished a great deal. It has now two hospitals with 
 doctors and nurses on the Labrador coast, one at Battle 
 Harbor and one at Indian Harbor. These are insufficient 
 for all needs, and a third will soon be established. Besides 
 these, a floating hospital is maintained on the "Strathcona,"* 
 
 * The following description of this steamer, from the London Graphic 
 of July 27th, I take from the organ of the Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen, 
 Toilers of the Deep, September, 1901, p. 223 : — 
 
 "The S. S. 'Strathcona' is a steel steamer with sufficient sail area to 
 enable her to be handled without her propeller, being ketch-rigged after 
 the manner of English trawlers. She is eighty-four tons capacity, and 
 is fitted with a hospital amidships. She was designed and built at Dart- 
 mouth, England, and came out under her own steam to Newfoundland. 
 Though a small boat for so long a journey, she only took ten and a half 
 days from the Fastnet Light to North Newfoundland, and so economical 
 is she with coal that her deck cargo of coal almost sufficed to cross the 
 Atlantic with, in spite of the heavy westerly winds she had to encounter
 
 156 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 a fine steamer recently given to the mission largely through 
 the generosity of Lord Strathcona, of Canada, who was him- 
 self once an agent of the Hudson's Bay Company in Labra- 
 dor. In this steamer Dr. Grenfell patrols the coast of New- 
 foundland and Labrador during the summer, carrying aid to 
 all in need of his services, and transporting to the shore hos- 
 pitals the cases that require it. During the winter navigation 
 is impossible, but the hospitals are kept open and a doctor 
 from them travels by dog sledge about the country. About 
 a thousand cases, counting both in and out patients, have 
 been cared for in the two hospitals each year, and another 
 thousand on the steamer. Last year the number was 801 on 
 shore and 1,072 on the ship, together with 150 by aid of a 
 launch. Numbers like these show how great and indis- 
 pensable a blessing this service is to fishermen, settlers, and 
 natives. 
 
 In another way Dr. Grenfell gives promise of greatly 
 benefiting these people. Realizing their unfortunate slavery 
 to the traders and the unhappy effect of this hopeless loss of 
 
 on the passage. She is designed to act under the management of the 
 Royal National Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen as a floating hospital, 
 moving from place to place along the bleak coast of Labrador. No medical 
 man dwells anywhere along that vast coast line, and its scattered people, 
 who amount to several thousand, have no skilled help in accident or illness, 
 except what this boat affords. The 'Strathcona' is admirably adapted 
 for her work. She is fitted with all the necessities for modern surgery, 
 including electric light and a fine X-ray instalment, so that in the fre- 
 quent accidents that a fishing and hunting life expose the people to they 
 may have the best assistance science can afford. In her first season, last 
 year, over a thousand people sought assistance on board her. The little 
 steamer lies up all winter in the ice, as the sea in these regions freezes 
 over from December to June. A doctor is kept there by the Mission in a 
 small hospital on a central part of the coast, and with his dogs and 
 sleigh he travels from settlement to settlement. The ship has now just 
 refitted and sailed for the coast."
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 157 
 
 independence, he is attempting to alter the economic con- 
 ditions of the coast. For this purpose he establishes co- 
 operative stores with reasonable prices to compete with the 
 extortions of the traders. With flour at $12 a barrel, pork 
 at $40, brown sugar at 20 cents a pound, and other things in 
 proportion, and with low returns for his own produce, the 
 settler cannot be independent. The new stores are cutting 
 these prices to a more reasonable level, and at the same time 
 affording better facilities for disposing of the fish and se- 
 curing better prices for them. A new industry made possi- 
 ble b}^ the mission is contributing to improvement in the 
 same line. The mission steamer and the hospitals consume 
 much wood as fuel, and wood is needed for buildings and 
 other purposes. This can be prepared to a large extent 
 during the dull season of the fisheries, and thus the industry 
 of the people is fostered and their incomes increased. The 
 mission is now trying at a considerable cost to establish a 
 saw mill, and also to extend the number and success of the 
 stores and provide them with ships of their own for carrying 
 supplies and for transporting fish to the markets. 
 
 Besides these good works, Dr. Grenfell is a father to all 
 the orphans of the coast, and relieves all possible cases of 
 need. He distributes books and teaches the people active 
 games. His influence over them is enormous, as a result of 
 his great helpfulness and interest in them. In all these 
 various ways he is improving their social and moral, at the 
 same time with their material, conditions. 
 
 To the members of the Brown-Harvard expedition to 
 Labrador last summer, this mission was a revelation as to 
 the possibilities of a wisely-conducted, practical philanthropy. 
 It is undoubtedly the most important and promising feature
 
 158 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 connected with life on the Atlantic side of Newfoundland 
 and Labrador, being an economic and moral force of the 
 greatest significance. 
 
 VII. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 The points at which we touched on our voyages north 
 and south were so numerous and so close together that they 
 gave us a very thorough idea of the character of the coast 
 we were investigating in its different parts. The structure 
 and appearance of the country vary considerably in different 
 regions; but probably very few of the prominent differences 
 escaped us. We anchored at twenty-eight different places 
 along the seven hundred miles of coast. At almost every 
 one of these places we went ashore, either for a single even- 
 ing's observations, or often during several days while imme- 
 diate further progress, for one reason or another, was im- 
 possible. We got acquainted also with six localities in New- 
 foundland in a similar way. At some places we covered a 
 considerable inland territory in our investigations. Thus at 
 St. Lewis Sound we went in a rowboat several miles up one 
 of the rivers; at Aillik several of us took a long walk, extend- 
 ing almost to the head of Mokkovik Bay; at Port Man vers 
 two of the party were encamped for a month; between 
 Hebron and Nachvak two of us covered the entire inter- 
 vening country on foot; and at Nachvak we made a thorough 
 exploration of the shores, and walked several miles inland to 
 the north. 
 
 We were thus enabled to accomplish a very creditable 
 amount of scientific observation along the lines for which we
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 159 
 
 were equipped. The work undertaken by Dr. Daly in par- 
 ticular was exceedingly careful and thorough, and his ob- 
 servations contain much that is new and valuable. Our re- 
 sults have not yet been completely worked out, so that it 
 is possible to give of some of them only an incomplete sum- 
 mary. Our very numerous oceanographic data have hardly 
 yet been touched, and the examinations of botanical speci- 
 mens, especially of the cryptogams, are not yet finished. 
 I shall give in a few brief paragraphs an outline of our re- 
 sults, so far as we know them, and then append the special 
 reports on botany, ornithology, and geology, the two latter 
 by Mr. Bigelow and Dr. Daly respectively. More extended 
 reports will be published later in appropriate places. 
 
 (a) Meteorology. — Regular observations were made 
 of air-pressure, humidity, and temperature, of the state of 
 clouds, fog, and sunshine. The results of these observations 
 have already been given in Section II. Their scientific 
 value is unfortunately not large, because of some degree of 
 irregularity in time of observations, of inaccuracy in records, 
 and of inadequacy of apparatus. The regular observations 
 made by the missionaries at some of their stations are of 
 much greater value. These of ours can serve only to give 
 an approximately correct idea of the conditions under which 
 our voyage was made. 
 
 (b) Geography. — We made thorough acquaintance 
 with the scenery, structure, topography, and life of probably 
 most of the typical sections of the Atlantic coast. Although 
 all the country we visited is well known to many individuals, 
 and we made no really new discoveries, yet much of it has 
 not found its way into scientific or popular description. We 
 ascended one mountain that probably has never before been
 
 i6o Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 climbed, and our determination of its height makes of it the 
 most elevated measured height in Labrador. We also 
 named a few hitherto unlabeled mountains. The names that 
 we particularly desire to see retained are these: (i) Mt. 
 Elizabeth; this rises to the height of 2,800 feet, directly be- 
 hind the Hudson's Bay Company's post at Nachvak, to the 
 north and northwest of it. (2) Mt. Ford (3,900 feet), north 
 and east of the latter. Both of these descend close to the 
 waters of Nachvak Bay, on its northern shore, and are bor- 
 dered on the west by the Goratsuk* valley. (3) Fall Moun- 
 tain (3,500 feet); directly north of Mt. Ford, separated from 
 the latter by the Shenukatikt valley, and marked by a prom- 
 inent waterfall on its southern face. (4) Mt. Faunce (4,400 
 feet); running off from near the summit of Fall Mountain 
 toward the north, and connected with the latter by a narrow 
 neck. (5) Mt. Eliot (estimated from the summits of Mts. 
 Ford and Faunce as exceeding 5,000 feet); immediately east 
 of Mts. Fall and Faunce, its peak lying in close proximity 
 to that of the latter. (6) Brave Mountain (estimated as 
 3,700 to 3,800 feet) ; the highest peak of the groupl just west 
 of the Bishop's Mitre at Cape Mugford; known sometimes 
 to fishermen as "the Cod-bag." (7) Mt. Packard, the 
 highest peak of the Kiglapait group. (8) The Torngat 
 Mountain Range, a name to be appHed to the entire system 
 of mountains extending from Hebron to Cape Chidley. 
 
 (c) Photography. — Our photographs of the country 
 and its people are many of them excellent, adding somewhat 
 to accurate knowledge of the appearance of those regions. 
 
 * Or, Kogarsuk. 
 
 t Or, Sennerkitte. 
 
 t The Kaumajet Mountain Group.
 
 The Tallek: tlie South Arm of Nachvak Bav. 
 
 ^founts Fall. Faunof, and F.liot, as seen from the Summit 
 of Mt. Ford.
 
 E. B. Delaba/rre, Ph. D. i6i 
 
 {d) Anthropology. — We made no contributions to 
 knowledge in this line, but brought back with us a few 
 articles illustrative of the present and past life of the 
 Eskimos. To the Peabody Museum of Harvard University 
 we presented a large and unusually interesting ancient stone 
 lamp and a pair of fire-stones; and to the Anthropological 
 Museum of Brown University a number of medicine-charms 
 (said by Mr. Ford to have been presented to him by an 
 Eskimo chief, Idualuk, from Akpatok Island, who at one 
 time practiced cannibalism), and of grave relics, the latter in- 
 cluding ancient stone lamps, cooking pots, knives and 
 scraping tools, bird-darts, harpoon points, etc. The fire- 
 stones are of a type new to us. They are two small, round 
 stones of soft material, in which are embedded great num- 
 bers of minute fragments of iron pyrites. In use, accord- 
 ing to Mr. Townley, the missionary at Hebron, who gave 
 them to us, these stones are knocked together rapidly over a 
 quantity of the cotton from a plant common in that country 
 {Eriophonim, of which there are several species). Fine 
 particles, warmed by the knocking process, fall from the 
 stones into the cotton, which is then rubbed and blown into 
 a blaze. 
 
 {e) Psychology. — While our stay was too short and 
 our acquaintance with the people of the coast too super- 
 ficial to permit of the gathering of any new facts of value 
 in regard to their character and mental habits, yet from ob- 
 servation and conversation we gained a fairly good impres- 
 sion of the general nature and conditions of life there; and 
 I have endeavored to give expression to this impression in 
 the preceding section. 
 
 {f) Entomology. — There was no one in our party
 
 i62 Report of the Br oiun-H award Expedition. 
 
 fitted to make studies in this line; consequently, we collected 
 but very few specimens. One among them, however, 
 turned out to be of interest. Dr. Packard reports upon it 
 as follows : * 
 
 "Last summer, Prof. E. B. Delabarre, during his ex- 
 pedition to Northern Labrador, observed and collected some 
 locusts, and kindly presented me with three specimens. 
 One is from Nachvak, collected at a point two miles inland 
 from the harbor, and two others at Cape Mugford, directly 
 on the coast, at a point 300 to 400 feet above the level of the 
 sea. The locusts were common locally, in spots. Dr. Scud- 
 der has kindly identified them as Melanoplus extremus juniiis. 
 This is its first occurrence in the Labrador peninsula, the 
 species occurring throughout British America and on the 
 summit of Mt. Washington, N. H." 
 
 {g) Botany. — Botanical collections were made in a 
 great many localities, and many records were made of the 
 growths in localities whose varieties were not fully collected. 
 Though the writer can lay no claim to skill in this science, 
 yet it was possible for him to identify a large number of the 
 more common plants; and whenever there was any doubt, 
 specimens were preserved. The plants of this collection 
 have been submitted to various authorities for determina- 
 tion. A list of them, containing very nearly three 
 hundred names, to which the unexamined mosses are yet 
 to be added, is given in the next section. Most of these 
 have been reported previously as occurring in Labrador. A 
 considerable addition is made by us, however, to the list of 
 definite localities; and over twenty species of phenogamous 
 
 * "Occurrence of Melanoplus extremus in Northern Labrador." By 
 A. S. Packard, Psyche, April 1901, p. 191.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 163 
 
 plants are now reported for the first time from the Labrador 
 coast. One of the latter has never before been known east 
 of Manitoba; four are reported by us further north and one 
 further south than their previously-announced limits; nine 
 are new to the coast, but have been found previously in 
 other parts of the Labrador peninsula; while two others 
 have been reported thus far only vaguely from the "coast," 
 without definite locality. Of plants previously recorded 
 from definite localities, two have their known limits now ex- 
 tended somewhat to the north, and one to the south; while 
 nearly fifty have been reported previously by a single 
 authority only, and are now confirmed. Of the mosses, nine 
 are new to the Labrador peninsula, and eleven are now first 
 given definite locality on the coast; while nearly half the 
 specimens are yet to be examined. Seven new hepatics are 
 named, three of them, as yet, doubtfully. Five lichens are 
 new to the country. Of the fungi, all, so far as can be 
 determined from the authorities consulted, are new. For 
 greater detail concerning these matters, reference must be 
 made to the following section. 
 
 (h) Ornithology. — Henry W. Bigelow kept a careful 
 list of all the birds he saw, and of the localities where they 
 occurred. His month on shore at Port Manvers made 
 possible an exhaustive study of that locality. None of his 
 birds are new, but several are rare on the Labrador coast. 
 His report will be found in Section IX.* 
 
 (i) Economic Mineralogy. — Adams and McCornick 
 gave particular attention to the search for mineral deposits 
 
 * A still later report by Mr. Bigelow, identical in its list of birds with 
 the one given in Section IX, will be found in Auk, 1902, Vol. XXVII, 
 pp. 24-31.
 
 164 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 of economic value. Most of their results in this line were 
 of a negative nature. Probably the great mass of the 
 country would not repay further investigation. It contains 
 large quantities of iron ore, some copper, some mica, and 
 some asbestos. It is not probable that any of these could 
 be worked to advantage. Our conclusion was that the only 
 localities that would be worth prospecting further are the 
 vicinity of Nain, and some 300 square miles about Mugford 
 and Nachvak. In the former place precious labradorite 
 occurs, doubtless in other situations than those already dis- 
 covered. In the latter region the structure of the country 
 is such as to admit the possibility of other valuable finds. 
 Pure graphite has been discovered about Nachvak Bay (see 
 Daly, Geology of the Northeast Coast of Labrador, p. 234). 
 
 (/) Oceanography. — Dr. Daly made studies of the 
 Labrador current; sounded and charted Nachvak Bay, find- 
 ing it a typical fiord, no fathoms at the deepest part, and, 
 therefore, the deepest measured bay in Labrador; and made 
 almost daily observations of the temperature and salinity of 
 the sea-water at different depths. Among his results were 
 the determination of a temperature of 29.6° F. at the bot- 
 tom of the Straits of Belle Isle, and of 29° F. in the depths 
 of Nachvak Bay. These studies were carefully made and 
 will be valuable; but their results have not yet been su^- 
 ciently computed for any report upon them at present. Be- 
 sides their value as mere oceanographic data, they also fur- 
 nish material to some extent for study of conditions of life 
 among the cod, a matter of practical importance in which 
 Dr. Daly was largely interested. 
 
 (k) Geology. — Dr. Daly was a tireless worker in this 
 field. He devoted attention to many different lines of study,
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 165 
 
 and made discoveries that will form large contributions to 
 geological knowledge of Labrador. Among the many 
 special subjects which he investigated were the following:* 
 
 (i) Phenomena of former submergence and subsequent 
 uplift of the coast. This has occurred since the glacial 
 epoch, and not to the same extent on different parts of the 
 coast. There is a maximum of uplift in the vicinity of Hope- 
 dale (390 feet), whence its amount diminishes steadily toward 
 the north, being 250 feet at Nachvak, and toward the south 
 to a minimum about Hamilton Inlet (260 feet). From the 
 latter it again increases southw^ard to another maximum in 
 Newfoundland, attaining 575 feet at St. John's. The de- 
 termination of these facts has involved: 
 
 First, a study of raised beaches and other elevated re- 
 sults of the former contact of land and sea. The heights 
 of a great many of these were measured, and an attempt to 
 correlate them led to the opinion that they were not formed 
 at corresponding heights in the different localities by rela- 
 tively long pauses in the process of uplift, as has been sur- 
 mised; but that their particular heights are due to local con-, 
 ditions of exposure and rock-resistance, and need not cor- 
 respond in height in the different localities. 
 
 Second, the discovery of a criterion for determining the 
 upper limit of former submergence. This was found in the 
 boundary between the boulder-strewn upper and the 
 boulder-free low^er zone, the former having evidently never 
 
 * This outline was given to me by Dr. Daly immediately after our 
 return from Labrador, and is subject to any corrections that may appear 
 in his own account of his results. These have now been given in his 
 "Geology of the Northeast Coast of Labrador," Bulletin of the Museum 
 of Comparative Zoology at Harvard College, Vol. XXXVIH, February, 
 1892, pp. 205-270.
 
 1 66 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 been subjected to sea-action since the boulders were de- 
 posited during the glacial epoch. This criterion was inde- 
 pendently discovered by Dr. Daly, though he finds that it is 
 not the first time that it has been used. 
 
 Third, the measurement of the upper limit of sub- 
 mergence. This was accomplished at almost all the local- 
 ities we visited, with the results outlined above. 
 
 (2) Phenomena of glaciation. In this field many new 
 discoveries were made, including: 
 
 First, large numbers of heretofore unobserved glacial 
 strise and grooves. 
 
 Second, a considerable number of terminal and lateral 
 moraines, whose existence in Labrador had been doubted. 
 
 Third, an upper limit to the extent of general glaciation 
 among the higher mountains of the north. Above 2,100 feet 
 there are no traces of alteration by the ice-sheet. 
 
 Fourth, numerous new localities where lunoid mark- 
 ings occur, and an adequate theory of their origin, together 
 with definite proof of their connection with the movements 
 of the ice in the glacial epoch. 
 
 Fifth, a great many fine examples of hanging valleys 
 in the vicinity of Nachvak — an efifect of glacial action not 
 previously known to exist in Labrador. 
 
 Sixth, the determination of the direction of movement 
 of the main ice-sheet in the different localities; and evidence 
 that in the vicinity of Nachvak the glaciers followed the trend 
 of the local valleys, not covering the tops of the mountains. 
 
 (3) The discovery of sedimentary rocks in localities 
 where none had been known previously; as, for example, the 
 breccias of Pomiadluk Point and the broad region of slate, 
 sandstone, and conglomerate on either side of Ramah.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 167 
 
 (4) A collection for further study of all the eruptive 
 rocks found on the coast. These include also specimens of 
 the unique volcanic bombs occurring- at Kirpon in New- 
 foundland. 
 
 (5) An interpretation of the scenery, with reference to : 
 First, rock-structure; this included the determination of 
 
 the strike-lines of the rocks, resulting in the discovery that 
 the coast-line follows the strike on the Atlantic border, and 
 thus corroborating the theory that Labrador has nothing to 
 do with the Appalachian system. 
 
 Second, submergence in its effects on a glaciated land- 
 scape. 
 
 Dr. Daly himself reports on these matters in greater 
 detail in Section X. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 REPORT ON BOTANY. 
 
 Vegetation in Labrador pushes up in great abundance 
 with the first disappearance of the snows. Throughout the 
 summer and early autumn all the country is thickly covered 
 with vigorous plant life and adorned with a great multitude 
 of flowers from which it gains a large variety in coloring. 
 Only where snow-drifts linger, or where bare rock masses 
 protrude, or on the higher slopes and summits, are these 
 growths absent. Near the coast the growth is never high. 
 Extensive evergreen forests exist in the interior, even as far 
 north as the latitude of Nachvak, according to George Ford 
 of that place. But in the mountainous region bordering on 
 the sea trees grow only in sheltered nooks and valleys, and
 
 1 68 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 rarely in large groups except fairly well in from the coast.* 
 We found, for instance, spruces growing to lo feet in height 
 a little way up the St. Charles River, and it is reported that 
 far up St. Lewis Inlet they are large enough for ship-timber. 
 In the ravines on the shore of Aillik Bay and in a low, flat 
 valley at its head, we noticed considerable groups of trees, 
 including willows ip feet and spruce 30 feet high. Still fur- 
 ther inland, along the shores and near the head of Mokkovik 
 Bay, there were somewhat extensive thick groves in which 
 spruce attained the height of perhaps 50 feet. Back of the 
 mission station at Hopedale is a large grove of larch; and at 
 Nain another of various evergreens. These were the only 
 places where we encountered trees of any size. Elsewhere 
 we found only scattered, stunted trees, or scrub growths 
 that were very rarely thick enough to cause any difficulty in 
 walking. Black and white spruce, dwarf birch, and various 
 willows were the most common forms, with larch, juniper, 
 balsam fir, and alder also occurring. Hebron is, apparently, 
 the northern limit of evergreens near the coast, for north of 
 it we saw none of them at all, even on our walk a considerable 
 distance inland. Alder, birch, and willows still grew vigor- 
 ously, the latter attaining the height of seven or eight feet in 
 moist hollows near Nachvak Bay. 
 
 The great mass of the vegetation of Labrador consists 
 of low forms. It grows so thickly and vigorously in the 
 thin soil, however, that the country never gives the im- 
 pression of being lifeless and barren. In the far south, 
 especially on moist lowlands, Sphagnum is often a prevail- 
 ing growth. But aside from its rather rare supremacy, al- 
 
 * See Low, Annual Report, Geol. Surv. Can., VIII, 31 L; quoted in full 
 in Section V of this report. 
 
 i
 
 A'itw to the Southeast from the Summit of Mt. Fauuce. 
 
 View to the South from the Sumniit of Mt. Faunee.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 169 
 
 most everywhere we went we found the curlew-berry {Em- 
 petrum nigrum) and the so-called caribou-moss (Cladonia, 
 really a white lichen) together forming an almost continuous 
 green and gray sward, touched with red in the autumn. The 
 berries of the curlew are exceedingly numerous, and those 
 of the previous season still cling thickly to the vine among 
 the green new ones, and even until the latter begin to ripen 
 in the middle of August. In the midst of this continuous 
 curlew and moss grow occasional clumps of grasses of many 
 kinds, and a great variety of flowering plants. Perhaps the 
 most common of the latter are the Ericaccce. Some of them 
 are berry-bearing, with inconspicuous flowers, particularly 
 the blueberry {Vaccinium Peimsylvanicum and V. uligi- 
 nosum), the mountain cranberry {V. Vitis-Idcea), and the 
 bearberry {Arctostaphylos alpina). Others have more prom- 
 inent flowers, such as the omnipresent Labrador tea 
 {Ledum), together with the somewhat less universal Loise- 
 leuria and Bryanthus. These are all exceedingly abundant 
 in the southern half of the peninsula, but extend variously 
 far to the north. The white clusters of the Ledum and the 
 purple umbels of the Bryanthus are very conspicuous. In 
 the autumn, the red-turning leaves of the Arctostaphylos are 
 the most attractive of the season's colorings. There is also 
 a large number of other plants that are constantly met with, 
 though few of them are so nearly omnipresent and con- 
 tinuous as are most of those already mentioned. The bake- 
 apple or cloudberry (Rubus ChamcBmorus) grows thickly as 
 far north as Hebron, but very thinly beyond. We could 
 find but very few of its ripe berries in Labrador, though in 
 Newfoundland they seem to be common. Associated with 
 its single white flowers are frequently seen the showy, rose-
 
 170 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 colored ones of the arctic raspberry {Rubus arcticus). This 
 also, so far as our experience could determine, had about the 
 same limits and was equally rare in fruit. Bunchberry 
 {Cornus Canadensis) is likewise very common, especially in 
 the south, and grows in thick groups. Dense tufts of the 
 white-flowered Diapensia Lapponica and of the beautiful 
 moss-like pink Silene acanlis greet the eye continually. 
 Astragalus and Oxytropis, Dryas, a great variety of saxifrages, 
 Sedum, Pedicularis, the violet-like Pinguicida, and many in- 
 conspicuous Cruciferce and Caryophyllacece complete the list 
 of forms more universally present in the early part of the 
 season. 
 
 After the beginning of August, when we had reached a 
 higher latitude, the character of the vegetation changed 
 considerably. Caribou moss, curlew-berry, blueberry, and 
 Arctostaphylos still remained the most continuous growths. 
 But the flowers began to change to more autumnal forms. 
 The arctic golden-rod (Solidago Virga-aurea and S. macro- 
 phylla) appeared abundantly. The large, showy pink flowers 
 of the Epilobium and the thick pink heads of Lychnis were 
 very prominent. Yellow Arnica alpina and delicate blue hare- 
 bells {Campanula) were common. A yellow poppy (Papaver 
 nudicaule) with early deciduous petals was not infrequent on 
 the hill-tops. A strikingly beautiful flower, though a rare 
 one, was the small twin-flower {Linncea borealis). Fungi, in- 
 cluding Boleti, Riissulce, and various agarics, also become 
 very abundant toward the close of the summer; they were 
 fairly numerous in the north, and the moist woods about 
 Nain and Hopedale were full of them. 
 
 Along the shore, in addition to many of the above va- 
 rieties, several other plants were of very frequent occur-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 171 
 
 rence. Seaside sandwort {Arenaria peploides), sea-lungwort 
 or ice-plant {Mertensia maritima), Potentilla anserina and tri- 
 dentata, two large UmbellifercB {Archangelica and Coslo- 
 plenrum), and one or two species of plantain (Plantago) we 
 found almost everywhere, even to the far north, though only- 
 one or two of them occurred quite as far as Nachvak; while 
 iris and beach-pea {Lathyrus maritimus) were also very 
 abundant, but were confined to much more southerly limits. 
 
 The thoroughness of our examination of the coast was 
 favorable to a fairly exhaustive study of the Labrador flora. 
 This feature was offset, however, to a certain extent by my 
 own inexpertness in the botanical field; and for this reason it 
 is probable that many interesting plants escaped my notice. 
 Of the more common and easily recognized varieties I pre- 
 served no specimens, because of the difficulty of making and 
 caring for a large collection in our limited quarters. In 
 almost all cases of doubt, however, and in many cases where 
 there was none, I brought home specimens for identification. 
 The names given on my own authority alone are compar- 
 atively few, and are with few exceptions those of plants in 
 regard to which there can be little or no uncertainty. 
 
 The largest part of the credit for the list which I am 
 able to present is due to those on whom has fallen the work 
 of identification of specimens. Prof. W. W. Bailey, of 
 Brown University, undertook the examination of all the 
 phenogamous plants, with the exception of the willows; and 
 his careful work has been further revised by Prof. B. L. Rob- 
 inson and Mr. M. L. Fernald, of Harvard University, of 
 whose kindly and able assistance we wish to make grateful 
 acknowledgment. The willows were named by Prof. W. W. 
 Rowlee, of Cornell University. The mosses were submit-
 
 172 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 ted to Mr. J. F. Collins, of Brown University, who is able, 
 as yet, to report on only a portion of them; these, however, 
 are the only portions of my collection in regard to which 
 this report is incomplete. The lichens have been examined 
 and identified by Professor Clara E. Cummings, of Wellesley 
 College. Unfortunately, a large portion of the fungi 
 collected were imperfectly preserved and could not be 
 named. The list of them here given represents, therefore, 
 very inadequately their actual variety in Labrador. I am 
 indebted to Prof. W. G. Farlow, of Harvard University, for 
 their names. To all of these men I wish to express my sin- 
 cere appreciation of their interest and help. 
 
 For a knowledge of the localities from which the various 
 species of phenogamous plants here enumerated have been 
 reported previously, I have consulted the following authori- 
 ties: 
 
 (i) Robert Bell: "Observations on the Geology, 
 Mineralogy, Zoology, and Botany of the Labrador Coast, 
 Hudson's Strait and Bay." Geol. and Not. Hist. Surv. of 
 Can., Report of Progress, DD, 1884. To this are added two 
 names given in a similar report the following year. 
 
 Bell's list, the plants of which were identified by Prof. 
 J. M. Macoun, contains seven columns, of which only three 
 apply to Labrador proper. His columns 4 (Cape Chidley) 
 and 5 (Nachvak, Ford's Harbor, and Nain) are the only ones 
 here considered, column 6 containing only species in the 
 collection of Weiz, more fully reported by Packard. 
 
 (2) A. S. Packard: The Labrador Coast. New York, 
 1891. 
 
 Prof. Packard's list aims to enumerate all the localities 
 reported by all previous observers. The list was compiled 
 by Prof. Macoun.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 173 
 
 (3) Henry G. Bryant: "A Journey to the Grand Falls 
 of Labrador." Geog. Club, Phila., Bulletin No. 2, March, 
 1894. 
 
 (4) A. P. Low: "Explorations in the Labrador Penin- 
 sula." Geolog. Surv. Can., Part L, Annual Report, Vol. VIII, 
 1896. 
 
 The list here given was compiled by Prof. Macoun. It 
 contains four columns, of which only the first applies to the 
 coast of Labrador, and includes all previous reports from 
 that region, but without definite mention of locality. His 
 other three columns include only plants found further west, 
 in the interior, and for the most part in portions of the pen- 
 insula now included in Quebec and not in Labrador proper. 
 
 (5) A. C. Waghorne: The Flora of Newfoundland, 
 Labrador, and St. Pierre et Miquelon. St. John's, 1893, 1895, 
 1898. 
 
 This list aims to bring up to its final date all previous 
 local references, but includes only phenogamous plants as far 
 as Plantaginacese in Gray's order of families. 
 
 (6) M. L. Fernald and J. D. Sornborger: "Some Re- 
 cent Additions to the Labrador Flora." Reprinted from 
 The Ottazva Naturalist, Vol. XIII, July, 1899. 
 
 (7) John Macoun: Catalogue of Canadian Plants. 
 1883-92. 
 
 In regard to all species not previously reported from 
 Labrador, or in case of which I find only one or two previous 
 local references, I have consulted Britton and Brown's 
 Illustrated Flora of the Northern States and Canada (New 
 York, 1896-98), and Gray's Synoptical Flora of North 
 America, so far as it is yet completed. I count as not 
 previously reported even those stated by these authorities
 
 174 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 as occurring in Labrador, inasmuch as many so reported 
 were observed in Canadian portions of the Labrador penin- 
 sula, unless in the above lists they are given definite locality 
 within the limits of Labrador proper as these limits are now 
 defined, i. e., from Blanc Sablon north to latitude 52°, thence 
 along the height of land to a point on Ungava Bay, a little 
 south of Cape Chidley, and thence following the coast 
 around the latter back to Blanc Sablon. 
 
 None of the fungi here definitely or approximately 
 named have been previously reported in the above-named 
 lists. Of the mosses, eleven are new to the Labrador coast, 
 and five others have been reported heretofore from one 
 locality only. All seven of the hepatics here named are now 
 reported for the first time, although three of these names can 
 be given as yet only provisionally. Five of the lichens are 
 apparently new to Labrador. 
 
 Among the phenogamous plants there is a considerable 
 number that are of especial interest. Twenty-three of them 
 are new to the Labrador coast. Two of these (Pyrola 
 chJorantha and Solix uva-iirsi) have been reported already 
 indefinitely from the "coast," but this may refer sometimes 
 to that part of the coast that belongs to Quebec. Nine are 
 new to the coast, but have been found previously in other 
 parts of the Labrador peninsula. These are : Oxytropis 
 podocarpa, Saxifraga Hircuhis, Gentiana propinqtia, Abies 
 balsatnea, Juncus castaneus, Liizula hyperborca, Eriophorum 
 alpimim, Cotebrosa aquatiea, Poa nemoralis. Six others also 
 are new under names here given, but may probably have 
 been reported before under the name of another species or 
 variety, namely: Stellaria humifusa var. ovalifolio, Epilobium 
 angnstifoUum forma stenophylla, Coelopleurum actceifolium,
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 175 
 
 Pyrola rotimdi folia, Salix Grmilandica, Salix Labradorica. 
 Six are entirely new to Labrador; one of them (Carex fili- 
 folia) has never been known east of Manitoba; one {Carex 
 compacta) now appears southward of its usual limits, Green- 
 land and Arctic America; four (Dicentra Canadensis, Poly- 
 gonum littorale, Festuca rubra, Lycopodium lucidulmn) are now 
 extended to the north of their previous limits. 
 
 Of those which were already known on the Labrador 
 coast, a few appear in localities considerably beyond the ones 
 where they have been found before. Thus, for Poa alpina, 
 Cape Chidley or Nain was previously the southern limit, but 
 it is now found on Hare Island, almost in the extreme south; 
 while two (Calmagrostis Canadensis, Hierochloe borealis), 
 which were before unknown north of Hamilton Inlet or 
 Hopedale, are now found as far north as Port Manvers or 
 Nachvak. Besides these, there are among the phenogamous 
 plants about fifty that have been reported previously only 
 from a singe locality, or by a single authority. 
 
 In all, about 500 specimens are included in the collec- 
 tion. These have yielded the list given below, which in- 
 cludes not far from 300 names, of which 45 are from identi- 
 fications made b)'^ myself alone, unconfirmed by specimens 
 preserved. The latter will be easily detected in the list from 
 the lack of numbers referring to specimens, and cannot be 
 considered so authoritative as the others. 
 
 In the list that follows, an asterisk (*) preceding a name 
 means that the plant has not been previously definitely re- 
 ported from the Labrador coast; a dagger (f) means that it 
 has been previously reported only from a single locality or 
 by a single authority. 
 
 In the local references, first are eiven the localities of all
 
 176 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 the specimens in my collection, following the number of the 
 specimen. Most of these references are from definite local- 
 ities; a few are recorded merely as from Southern Labrador, 
 and of these the majority were collected in the vicinity of 
 St. Lewis Sound or of Seal Islands. Such terms as "Hebron- 
 Nachvak" mean that the plant occurs at one or the other, 
 or between, the two places. Specimens from Mt. Faunce 
 were collected between 3,500 and 4,400 feet above sea-level 
 at our most northern point. After the initials E. B. D. are 
 given the localities where the plant occurs according to 
 my own observation, unsupported by collected specimens. 
 Finally, after the word "Previously," come former references, 
 the authorities being abbreviated as follows: B :, Bryant; all 
 these are from the basin of the Grand or Hamilton River. 
 BM:, Macoun's list in columns 4 and 5 of Bell's report. 
 F :, Fernald and Sornborger. L :, Macoun's list in column i of 
 Low's report. M :, Macoun's catalogue. P:, Macoun's list 
 in Packard. W :, Waghorne. Later references to the same 
 locality are not given when taken from an earlier source ; and 
 references merely to the "coast of Labrador" or to "Labra- 
 dor" are rarely given when definite localities can be named, 
 because it is often uncertain whether those terms refer to 
 Labrador proper. 
 
 The dates of collection or observation of the plants, to- 
 gether with the comparative position of the stations, can be 
 determined by reference to the list of stations given in Sec- 
 tion n. 
 
 No attempt is made to enumerate all Labrador plants, 
 the list being confined to those observed or collected on this 
 expedition.
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 177 
 
 A. PHENOGAMOUS PLANTS. 
 
 Ranunculacese : 
 
 Coptis trifolia, Salisb. (Goldthread). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
 Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Ford Harbor. 
 Previously: W: Forteau (Butler); Battle Harbor and other 
 places. 
 
 tRanunculus hyperboreus, Rottb. (Northern Crowfoot). (142) 
 Hopedale. Previously: W: Cape Chidley (Cat. Ill, 480); doubtful 
 specimen from Pack's Harbor. E. B. D. : This plant is well-known 
 at Hopedale, but was called R. pygmseus by Dr. Hettasch there. 
 
 Ranunculus nivalis, L. (55) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously : P. 
 Hopedale (Weiz). BM: Cape Chidley. 
 
 tRanunculus pygmseus, Wahl. (53) Hebron-Nachvak; (25) Mt. 
 Faunce. E. B. D. : Cape Mugford. Previously: BM: Cape Chid- 
 ley ; attributed to Hopedale by Packard (Weiz) , but this is probably 
 the R. hyperboreus above. P: Coast of Lab. (Pursh). 
 
 Pap aver acese : 
 
 Papaver nudicaule, L. (Arctic Poppy). (90) Port Manvers; (35) 
 Nachvak. E. B. D. : Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: P: Hopedale 
 Islands (Weiz); BM; Cape Chidley. 
 
 Papaver sp. (23) Mt. Faunce. 
 Pumariaeese : 
 
 *Dicentra Canadensis, DC. (Squirrel Com). (295) St. Charles 
 River. No previous record of any Fumariaceag. This specimen has 
 the leaves only. 
 Crueiferse : 
 
 Arabis alpina, L. (Mountain Cress) . (80a) Port Manvers or Mug- 
 ford; (78) Mugford; (52) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
 Cape Chidley. P; Coast of Labrador (Kohlmeister) ; Forteau (But- 
 ler); Hopedale Islands (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 Cardamine pratensis, L. (Cuckoo Flower, Ladies' Smock). (56) 
 Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale 
 (Weiz). 
 
 Coehlearia sp. (50) Hebron-Nachvak. 
 The species of Coehlearia are almost impossible to determine. Several 
 are reported from Labrador, two by Packard (Weiz) from Hopedale, 
 all others from^south of Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 tDraba aurea, Vahl. (93, 94) Port Manvers. Previously: P: 
 Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Draba incana, L. (Whitlow-grass). (186) Southern Labrador; 
 (250) Pottle's Cove; (150) Rodney Mundy Island; (22) Mt. Faunce. 
 E. B. D. : Pomiadluk. Previously: P: Coast of Lab. (Pursh); 
 Hopedale (Weiz); Nachvak (Bell). W: Battle Harbor, Snack Cove,
 
 178 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Square Islands, L'anse au Clair. Some of these references apply to 
 var. confusa, Poir. 
 
 fDraba nivalis, Lilj. (fide B. L. R.) (43) Hebron-Ramah. Previ- 
 ously: F: Cape Chidley, Okkak. 
 
 Draba sp. (161) Rodney Mundy Island. 
 Violaeese : 
 
 Viola blanda, Willd. (White Violet). E, B. D. : AiUik-Mokkovik. 
 Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 Viola eanina, L.,var. ? E. B. D.: Mosquito Bight, common; Ford 
 Harbor. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 W: Forteau (Butler); Sandwich Bay (Shears). 
 
 Caryophyllacese : 
 Arenaria Gro9nlandica, Spreng. (Greenland Sandwort). (153) 
 Pomiadluk; (123) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Hebron-Saglek (proba- 
 bly). Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: 
 Sandwich Bay (Shears) ; Venison Tickle. 
 
 Arenaria peploides, L. (Seaside Sandwort). (220) Southern Labra- 
 dor. E. B. D. : Common on the shore everywhere, as far north at 
 least as Hebron; specially noted at Great Caribou Island, Pottle's 
 Cove, Jigger Island, Aillik and Mokkovik, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek. 
 Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). '' W: Forteau (Butler); Seal 
 Islands, Snack Cove, Turner's Head. 
 
 t Arenaria Sajanensis, Willd, (33) Nachvak. Previously: W : Cape 
 Chidley (C. H. Geo. S. Can., V. 5). 
 
 Cerastium alpinum, L. (Mouse-ear Chickweed). (188) Southern Lab.; 
 (249) Pottle's Cove ; (177) Rodney Mundy Island ; (14) Nachvak ; 
 (21) Mt. Faunce. E. B. D. : Common ; noted also at Aillik Bay, 
 Ford Harbor, Iterungnek, Saglek. Previously : BM : Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Hopedale Island (AVeiz) ; Forteau (Butler). W: Sand- 
 wich Bay (Shears) ; Battle Harbor. M : Ford's Harbor, Cape Chid- 
 ley (Bell). 
 
 Lychnis alpina, L. (88) Port Manvers ; (62) Hebron-Nachvak. 
 E. B, D. : Iterungnek, Ramah-Nachvak, Nachvak. Previously : 
 BM : Nachvak-Nain: P : Coast of Lab. (Morrison) ; Hopedale 
 (\^^eiz) . W : Snack Cove. 
 
 Lychnis apetala, L. (47) Ramah. Previously: BM : Cape Chid- 
 ley. P : Coast of Lab. (Morrison) . 
 
 t Sagina procumbens, L. ? (178) Rodney Mundy Island ; (117) Ford 
 Harbor. Previously : F : Hebron. 
 
 Silene acaulis, L. (Moss Campion) (191) Southern Lab. ; (246) Pot- 
 tle's Cove. E. B. D. : Common throughout the region; specially noted 
 at Great Caribou Island, Seal Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Ford 
 Harbor, Saglek Bay. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 179 
 
 Stellaria borealis, Bigel. (Northern Stitchwort) . (304) St. Charles 
 River; (156) Jigger Island. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: 
 Battle Harbor, Venison Tickle. 
 
 Stellaria humifusa, Rottb. (219) Southern Lab. ; (156a) Jigger Island; 
 (51, 54a) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B, D. : Great Caribou Island, Rod- 
 ney Mundy Island; Iterungnek? Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 P : Hopedale (Weiz) ; Seashore Lab. (Pursh) . W : Battle Harbor and 
 several places along the coast. 
 
 * Stellaria humifusa, Rottb. var. ovalifolia, Fenzl. A specimen, 
 
 so named by Mr. Collins, was found by him among the mosses given 
 him for identification. Its exact locality cannot be given, 
 
 Stellaria longipes, Goldie. (247, 257) Pottle's Cove, (120) Ford 
 Harbor. E. B. D. : Jigger Island. Previously: W: Battle Har- 
 bor (Bull) ; Sandwich Bay (Shears) ; Pack's Harbor, L'anse au 
 Loup. Several varieties are given by various authorities, with locali- 
 ties extending to the extreme north. 
 
 Portulacaeese : 
 Montia fontana, L. (Water Blinks or Chickweed). (54) Hebron- 
 Nachvak. Previously: P: Coast of Lab. (Gmelin). W: Battle 
 Harbor, Emily Harbor, Cape Charles, Seal Islands, Pack's Harbor. 
 
 Leguminosae : 
 Astragalus alpinus, L. (Milk- vetch) . (209, 210) Southern Labra- 
 dor; (258) Pottle's Cove ; (7) Nachvak. All of these specimens con- 
 sist of leaves only, and are named with some doubt. They are un- 
 questionably, however, identical with what has been thus identified 
 previously. E. B. D. : Exceedingly common at all stations through- 
 out the entire coast region. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
 vak-Nain. P: Forteau (Butler); Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Har- 
 bor, Sandwich Bay. 
 
 Lathyrus maritimus, Bigelow. (Everlasting Pea, Beach Pea). (206, 
 241) Southern Lab. ; (254) ? Pottle's Cove. E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
 Island, Jigger Island. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Bat- 
 tle Harbor, St. Michael's and other places. 
 
 Oxytropis eampestris, DC, var. coerulea, Koch, (fide B. L. R.). 
 (175) Rodney Mundy Island. E. B. D. : This, or something similar, 
 at Brig Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Forteau (Butler) ; 
 Hopedale (Weiz); Square Island (Allen). W: Battle Harbor, Sand- 
 wich Bay, Grosswater Bay. 
 
 * Oxytropis podoearpa. Gray. (49) Hebron-Nachvak. No definite 
 previous reference. P. speaks of it as in the Herb. Gray ; M. refers 
 it to " Labrador " on the authority of Gray. 
 
 Rosacese: 
 
 Alchemilla vulgaris, L. (Lady's Mantle). (195) Southern Lab.;
 
 i8o Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 (77) Mugford. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz), W: Battle 
 Harbor, L'anse au Loup, Blanc Sablon. 
 
 Amelanchier Canadensis, var. oligocarpa, T. & G. (Shad-Bush, 
 Juneberry, Indian Pear). E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island, Aillik- 
 Mokkovik. Previously : W : Deep Water Creek, Pack's Harbor. 
 Low speaks of its occurrence in the interior northward to Big and 
 Hamilton Rivers. 
 
 Comarum palustre, L. ? (Potentilla palustris, Scop.). (181) Rod- 
 ney Mundy Island. E. B.D. : SaglekBay? Previously: P: Hope- 
 dale (Weiz). W: not uncommon along the coast of Southern Lab. 
 
 Dryas octopetala, L., probably var. integrifolia, C. & S. (199) 
 Southern Lab.: (72) Mugford; (15) Nachvak. E. B. D. : Port Man- 
 vers, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
 vak-Nain. P; Hopedale (Weiz); Point Amour (Butler). W: Battle 
 Harbor. F: Ramah. 
 
 Potentilla anserina, L. (Silverweed) . (205) Southern Lab. E. B. 
 D. : Great Caribou Island, Jigger Island, Aillik-Mokkovik, Ford Har- 
 bor and vicinity, Saglek Bay. Abundant on the shore. Previously : 
 BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor and 
 other places. 
 
 tPotentilla nivea, L. (147) Pomiadluk. Previously: P: Hopedale 
 (Weiz). M: Labrador (Hooker). 
 
 Potentilla rubens, Vill. (P. maculata, Poir.) (244) Pottle's Cove. 
 E. B. D. : Iterungnek-Saglek? Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Long Point. M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 
 
 Potentilla tridentata, Ait. (Three-toothed Cinquefoil). E. B. D.r 
 Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek. 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Many 
 places on the Labrador. 
 
 Pyrus Americana, DC, var. (American Mountain Ash). E. B. D. : 
 Great Caribou Island, Aillik Bay. Previously : P: var. microcarpa, 
 Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Rubus arcticus, L. (Arctic Raspberry. Dewberry, Eye-berry). (190) 
 Southern Lab.; (259) Pottle's Cove; (141) Hopedale; (119) Ford Har- 
 bor. E. B. D. : Common at least as far north as Hebron. Specially 
 noted at Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Aillik-Mokkovik, 
 Iterungnek. Number of petals very variable, from 4 to 8, usually 6. 
 Apparently rarely fertile, none of its fruit being found by us. Pre- 
 viously: This or var. grandiflorus: BM: Nachvak Nain. P: Hope- 
 dale (Weiz). W: Straits of Belle Isle, Indian Harbor, Holton. 
 
 Rubus Chamaemorus, L, (Bake-apple, Cloud-berry). (192, 203) 
 Southern Lab. ; (217) St. Lewis Sound, Seal Islands. E. B. D.: Very 
 common at all stations as far north as Hebron; rare beyond. Petals 
 and calyx-lobes very variable, from 4 to 6. Apparently rarely fertile.
 
 E. B. Delabarre,^ Ph. D. i8i 
 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Straits of Belle Isle (St. 
 
 Cyr); Hopedale (Weiz). W: very common (Macoun). Low: in the 
 
 swamps everywhere throughout Labrador to beyond the tree limit. 
 
 M: abundant in Labrador, etc. (Fowler's Cat.). 
 Bubus strigosus, Michx. (Red Raspberry). E. B. D.: AiUik-Mok- 
 
 kovik; Port Man vers? Previously: W: frequent in many places 
 
 from the Straits to Hamilton Inlet. F: Mallijak in Hamilton Inlet. 
 Bubus triflorus, Richardson. (Dewberry, Eye-berry, Plumboy). 
 
 E. B. D. : Rodney Mundy Island? Aillik-Mokkovik ? Previously: 
 
 P: Forteau (Butler). W: Capstan Island and several places in the 
 
 Straits and northward. 
 Bubus sp. (149) Rodney Mundy Island. 
 Sibbaldia procumbens, L. (260) Pottle's Cove; (71) Mugford. 
 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). M: Cape 
 
 Chidley (Bell). 
 
 Saxifragacese: 
 
 Parnassia parviflora, DC. (85) Saglek Bay; (38) Nachvak. Pre- 
 viously: W: L'anse au Mort, Holton, Forteau, Long Point. 
 
 Bibes lacustre, Poir. (Swamp Gooseberry). E. B. D.: Great Cari- 
 bou Island? Previously: W: L'anse au Clair, L'anse au Mort. 
 F: Red Bay. 
 
 Bibes prostratum, L'Her. (Fetid Currant). E. B. D. : Mosquito 
 Bight? Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: S. Michaels, L'anse 
 au Clair. 
 
 Saxifraga aizoides, L. (59) Saglek-Ramah (Sorviluk River) . Pre- 
 viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: southeast coast of Lab. (Butler); 
 Hopedale (Weiz). W: L'anse au Mort. M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 
 
 tSaxifraga Aizoon, Jacq. (143, 145) Pomiadluk; (73) Mugford; 
 (4, 12) Nachvak. E. B. D.: Saglek Bay. Previously: P: Coast 
 of Lab. (Morrison); Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Saxifraga esespitosa, L. (185) Southern Lab.; (20) Mt. Faunce. 
 
 E. B. D. : This or a var. at Pottle's Cove, Ford Harbor, Saglek Bay. 
 
 Previously: W: Battle Harbor. M : Cape Chidley (Bell). P : var. 
 
 Groenlandica, Hopedale (Weiz) ; Forteau (Butler) ; Nachvak (Bell), 
 Saxifraga cernua, L. (144) Pomiadluk. E. B. D. : Saglek Bay ? 
 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz) ; Coast of 
 
 Lab. (Pursh). M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 
 *Saxifraga Hirculus, L. (196) Southern Lab. ; (84) Port Manvers. 
 Saxifraga nivalis, L. (24) Mt. Faunce. Previously: BM : (var.) 
 
 Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz) ; Coast of Lab. (Pursh). W : 
 
 Bolster Rocks (Bull). M : Cape Chidley (Bell). 
 Saxifraga rivularis, L. (48) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D. : Saglek 
 
 Bay. Previously : BM : Cape Chidley. P : Hopedale (Weiz). W : 
 
 Battle Harbor, Holton. M : Nachvak (Bell).
 
 i82 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 tSaxifraga tricuspidata, Retz. (32) Nachvak. E. B. D. : Saglek 
 Bay. Previously: :BM : Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast of Lab. (Mc- 
 Gill Col. Herb.). 
 
 Saxifraga sp. (197) Southern Lab. ; (70) Mugford. 
 
 Crassulacege : 
 
 Sedum Rhodiola, DC. (Roseroot). E. B. D. : Very variable, and 
 perhaps several varieties or even species. Common at almost all 
 stations as far north as Hebron. Previously : BM : Nachvak-Nain. 
 P : Hopedale (Weiz) . W : frequent along the coast. M ; Cape 
 Chidley (Bell). 
 
 Droseracese : 
 tDrosera rotundifolia, L. (Sundew). E. B. D.: Great Caribou 
 Island, Aillik-Mokkovik. Previously : P : Coast of Lab. (Hooker) ; 
 Hopedale (Weiz). 
 Haloragese : 
 Hippuris vulgaris. L. (Mare's Tail). (134,159) Brig Harbor Island. 
 E. B. D. : Jigger Island ; Iterungnek. Previously : BM : Cape 
 Chidley. P : Hopedale (Weiz) . W : Fox Harbor. 
 
 Onagraeese : 
 
 Epilobium alpinum, L., var. majus, Gray. (63) Hebron- Nachvak. 
 Previously (E. Homemanni Reichenb.) : W : Pinware, Cart- 
 wright, Forteau, Blanc Sablon, Pack's Harbor. F : Mallijak (Hamil- 
 ton Inlet), Mokkovik, Ramah, Okkak. 
 
 Epilobium angustifolium, L. (E. spicatum, Lam.) (Fireweed, Wil- 
 low Herb). (271) American Tickle (Seal Islands) ; (252) Pottle's Cove; 
 (133) Ford Harbor. E. B. D. : This or the following common at 
 Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay. Iterungnek, Nachvak. Previously : 
 BM: Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz). W : southern Lab., 
 Sandwich Bay. 
 
 ♦Epilobium angustifolium, Lam., forma stenophylla, Hausch. 
 (299) St. Charles River ; (97) Ford Harbor. 
 
 Epilobium palustre, L. ; var. ? (269) American Tickle (Seal 
 Islands). Previously : L : Coast of Lab. P : (E. Hneare) Hopedale 
 (Weiz). W : Pack's Harbor, Forteau, Blanc Sablon, Battle Harbor, 
 Mullin's Cove. 
 
 Umbelliferse : 
 Archangelica sp. ? (298) St. Charles River ; (277, 278) American 
 Tickle (Seal Islands). E. B. D. : Abundant at Pottle's Cove, Jigger 
 Island. Previously : (A. atropurpurea, Hofl'm.) : BM : Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 ♦Coelopleurum aetasifolium, Coulter & Rose (fide B. L. R.) (276) 
 American Tickle. E. B. D. : Mosquito Bight. Previously only C. 
 Gmelini, Ledeb. 
 
 Genus unknown : (261, 262) Pottle's Cove.
 
 E. B. Delabane, Ph. D. 183 
 
 Oornacese : 
 
 Cornus Canadensis, L. (Bunchberry). E. B. D. : Apparently 
 several varieties : very common everywhere as far north as Ford 
 Harbor. Previously : BM : Nachvak-Nain. P : Forteau (Butler); 
 Hopedale (Weiz). W : Straits of Belle Isle and north. Var. suecica, 
 L. noted by BM : Nachvak-Nain. 
 
 Caprifoliaceae : 
 Linnsea borealis, L. (Twin-flower). (180) Rodney Mundy Island; 
 (139) Hopedale; (82, 87) Port Manvers; (49a) Hebron-Nachvak. 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz) . W: Pack's 
 Harbor, Forteau. 
 
 Lonicera cserulea, L. (Mountain Honeysuckle). (189) Southern 
 Lab. E. B. D.: St. Charles River, Pomiadluk, Aillik Bay. Previ- 
 ously: W: Indian Harbor, Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup, Blanc 
 Sablon. 
 
 Viburnum pauciflorum. La Pylaie. (Arrow- wood) . (154) Mos- 
 quito Bight. Previously: F: Red Bay, Webeck, Mokkovik, Okkak. 
 
 Compositse : 
 Achillea millefolium, L. ; perhaps var. nigrescens, Meyer. (Yar- 
 row). E. B. D.: Pottle's Cove, abundant; Jigger Island. Previ- 
 ously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz) . 
 
 Antennaria alpina, DC. (Everlasting). (83) Port Manvers. 
 E. B. D. : Some species of Antennaria also at Ford Harbor. Previ- 
 ously : P: Coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister); Hopedale (Weiz). M: Cape 
 Chidley (Bell). 
 
 fAntennaria hyperborea, Don. (83a) Port Manvers. Previously: 
 F : Ramah ; formerly by Kohlmeister and at Okkak. 
 
 Arnica alpina, Murr. (76) Mixgford; (5, 11) Nachvak. E. B. D.: 
 Common at all points from Port Manvers to Nachvak. Previously: 
 BM: Cape Chidley. P: Coast of Lab. (Torr. and Gray); Hopedale 
 Islands (Weiz). M: Nachvak (Bell). 
 
 Artemisia borealis, Pall. (Wormwood). (125) Ford Harbor; (61) 
 Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D. : Ramah. Previously: varieties only 
 reported by P: Hopedale Islands (Weiz); F: Ramah. M: Coast 
 (Kohlmeister). 
 
 Aster radula, Ait. (274) Hopedale (Sept.). Previously: W: Bat- 
 tle Harbor, L'anse au Loup. Var. stricta by P: Hopedale (Weiz); 
 W: Square Islands, Capstan Island. 
 
 tCrepis nana, Richardson. (58) Ramah. Previously: F: Ramah. 
 
 Erigeron uniflorus, L. (Fleabane). (74) Mugford; (31) Nachvak. 
 E. B. D.: Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister). 
 
 Hieraeium vulgatum. Fries. (Hawkweed). (92) Mugford. Pre-
 
 184 Report of the Brozi'n- Harvard Expedition. 
 
 viously: P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast of Lab. ( Kohlmeister) . F: 
 
 Ramah. 
 tPetasites palmata, Gray. (Sweet Coltsfoot). (281) Pomiadluk. 
 
 E. B. D. : Aillik Bay, Iterungnek, Saglek. Previously: P: coast 
 
 of Lab. (Hooker); Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
 Senecio pauciflorus, Pursh. (Groundsel, Ragwort). (75) Mugford. 
 
 E. B. D.: Ramah- Nachvak. Previously: (S. aureus, L., var. bore- 
 
 alis, T. &G.): BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
 tSenecio vulgaris, L. (267) St. Francis Harbor; (275) Hopedale 
 
 (Sept.). Previously: F: Hopedale. 
 Solidago rQacrophylla, Pursh. (Golden-rod). (283) Southern Lab. 
 
 (285) Harelsland; (253) Pottle's Cove; (67) Hebron; (28) Nachvak. 
 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: For- 
 
 teau, L'anse au Clair, Battle Harbor, Deep Water Creek, Venison 
 
 Tickle. 
 Solidago Virga-aurea, L. (151) Pomiadluk; (109)? Ford Harbor. 
 
 E. B. D.: This or the previous also at Rodney Mundy Island, Aillik 
 
 Bay, Hebron, Iterungnek, Saglek; common. Previously: (var. 
 
 alpina) : BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Taraxacum dens-leonis, Desf. (Dandelion). (152) Mosquito Bight; 
 (126) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Pottle's Cove, Jigger Island, Hebron- 
 Iterungnek, Ramah-Nachvak. Previously: (T. officinale): W: Bat- 
 tle Harbor and other places. F: Ramah. Varieties reported byBM: 
 Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain; P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Genera unknown : (232) Seal Islands; (256) Pottle's Cove. 
 
 Campanulacese : 
 Campanula sp. (Harebell). E. B. D. : Common from Port Manvers 
 northward. Probably one or more of the following species. Pre- 
 viously: (C. rotundifolia) : W: Battle Harbor, Straits of Belle Isle. 
 (C. rotundifolia var. arctica) : P: Forteau (Stearns); Hopedale 
 (Weiz). (C. unifiora): BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 (C. Scheuchzeri var. heterodoxa) : BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 
 M (III, 560) : This is to be referred to C. rotundifolia. 
 
 Ericaceae : 
 Andromeda polifolia, L. (198) Great Caribou Island. Previously: 
 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Indian Harbor, Square Islands, etc. 
 Arctostaphylos alpina, Spreng. (Alpine Bearberry) . (187) South- 
 em Lab.: (169) Rodney Mundy Island; (2) Nachvak. These speci- 
 mens have leaves only, and are therefore named with some doubt; 
 but are certainly identical with what has previously been so identi- 
 fied. E. B. D.: Very common at all stations throughout the coast 
 region. Berries without much flavor and not used by the natives. 
 Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 
 (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup,
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 185 
 
 Bryanthus taxifolius, Gray. (214, 216, 238) Southern Lab. E. B. 
 D. : Common at least as far north as Saglek. Specially noted at 
 Great Caribou Island, Sloop Harbor (near Seal Islands) , Pottle's Cove, 
 Rodney Mundy Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnck-Saglek. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle 
 Harbor, Seal Islands, L'anse au Clair. 
 
 Cassandra caliculata, Don. (Leather-leaf). (221) Southern Lab. 
 E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island; abundant at Sloop Harbor (Seal 
 Islands). Previously: P: Coast (Hooker); Square Island Harbor 
 (Mann). W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 Cassiope hypnoides, Don. (101) Island near Ford Harbor. E. B. 
 D. : Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hope- 
 dale (Weiz). M: Nain (Bell). 
 
 Cassiope tetragona, Don. (57) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D.: Not 
 uncommon all the way from Hebron to Nachvak. Previously: 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Kohlmeister) ; Nain, Nachvak (Bell). 
 
 Kalmia angustifolia, L. (Sheep Laurel). (226) St. Charles River. 
 E. B.D. : Sloop Harbor (Seal Islands) ; rare. Previously: P: Coast 
 
 (Morrison). W: West St. Modest, Chatham, Battle Harbor. 
 
 Kalmia glauca. Ait. (Pale Laurel). (227) St. Charles River; (176) 
 Rodney Mundy Island. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Sloop Har- 
 bor (Seal Islands), Ford Harbor. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor and a few other places. 
 
 Ledum latifolium, Ait. (Labrador Tea). (171, 172, 173) Rodney 
 Mundy Island; (19) Nachvak. E. B. D. : see Ledum sp., below. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Mor- 
 rison). 
 
 Ledum, palustre, L. (240) Southern Lab.; (164) Rodney Mundy 
 Island. E. B. D. : see Ledum sp., below. Previously: BM: Cape 
 Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Morrison). 
 W: Seal Islands, Pack's Harbor, Snack Cove. 
 
 Ledum sp. E. B. D. : Ledum is exceedingly common at all places on 
 the coast. L. latifolium is the more abundant southward, L. palustre 
 toward the north. Either the L. palustre is very variable, or an in- 
 termediate species exists along with the latter. In appearance it 
 certainly seems distinct from the other two : its leaves are interme- 
 diate between the oblong leaves of the latifolium and the linear 
 shape of the palustre; its capsule is short-oval; its number of 
 stamens varies within the same cluster of flowers from 5 to 11, 
 mostly from 7 to 9. Its distribution is the same as that of L. palus- 
 tre. This may be the L. palustre var. dilatatum (Wahl) of Macoun 
 (II, 301), having broader leaves and sometimes short oval capsule, ap- 
 proaching L. latifolium; and reported by him only from the Pacific 
 coast.
 
 1 86 
 
 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Loiseleuria procumbens, Desv. (Alpine Azalea). (218,239) South- 
 em Lab. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Pottle's Cove, Rodney 
 Mundy Island, Brig Harbor Island. Common in the more southern, 
 rare in the more northern localities. Previously: BM: Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, Seal Islands. 
 
 Moneses uniflora, Gray. (Pyrola uniflora, L.). (136) Hopedale. 
 Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Turner's Head, Hamilton 
 Inlet, Venison Tickle, St. Michael's, L'anse au Clair. 
 
 *Pyrola chlorantha, Swartz. E.B.D.: Port Manvers. Previously: 
 
 Coast (Morrison, Richardson, Gray). 
 
 ♦Pyrola rotundifolia, L. (Wintergreen, Shin-leaf). (85 Port 
 
 Manvers. 
 Pyrola rotundifolia, L., var. pumila. Hook, (fide B. L. R). (9) Nach- 
 
 vak. E. B. D.: Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Pi'e- 
 
 viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 Rhododendron Lapponicum, Wahl. (60) Hebron-Nachvak. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Nachvak. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 t Vaeoinium Canadense, Kalm. ? (228) St. Charles River. Pre- 
 viously: B: Hamilton River. 
 
 Vaecinium Pennsylvanioum, Lam., var. angustifolium, Gray. 
 (Blueberry; Hurts). (228)? St. Charles River. E. B, D.: Great 
 Caribou Island, Rodney Mundy Island. Previously: P: Hopedale 
 (Weiz); Nain (Lundbery). W: Snack Cove, Sandwich Bay. 
 
 Vaecinium uliginosum, L. (Blueberry). E. B. D.: Great Caribou 
 
 Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Brig Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, 
 Mugford, and abundant all the way from Hebron to Nachvak. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Cape Chidley Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 W: Blanc Sablon, Deep Water Creek, Seal Islands, Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 Vaecinium Vitis-Idsea, L. (Mountain Cranberry, Redberry). 
 
 (222) Southern Lab.; (265) Pottle's Cove; (167) Rodney Mundy 
 
 Island. E. B. D.: Abundant everywhere as far north as Hebron. 
 
 Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 
 
 (Weiz). W: Abundant and widely distributed. 
 
 Vaecinium sp. (168) Rodney Mundy Island. 
 
 Diapensiacese: 
 Diapensia Lapponica, L. (204) Southern Lab.; (174)? Rodney 
 Mundy Island. E. B. D. : Common almost everywhere throughout 
 the coastal region. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Plumbaginacese : 
 
 Armeria (statice) vulgaris, Willd. (Common Thrift, Sea Pink). 
 (130) Ford Harbor; (102) Island near Ford Harbor ; (10, 18)
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 187 
 
 Nachvak. E. B. D. : Common everywhere north of Ford Harbor. 
 Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 Primulacese : 
 
 Primula Mistassinica, Michx. (155) Jigger Island. Previously: 
 P: Forteau (Butler); Hopedale (¥/eiz). W: Battle Harbor. 
 
 Primula farinosa, L. (Bird's-eye Primrose). (245) Pottle's Cove. 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak. P: Hopedale (Weiz), W: Sandwich 
 Bay, Battle Harbor, Long Point (Hamilton Inlet), L'anse au Clair. 
 
 Trientalis Amei'ieana, Pursh. (Star-flower). E. B. D. : Great Cari- 
 bou Island, Pottle's Cove, Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay, Ford Harbor, 
 and Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: P: Coast (Hooker); Hope- 
 dale (Weiz) ; W: Appears to be quite common everywhere, 
 Gentianacese: 
 
 * Gentiana propinqua, Rich. (64) Near Saglek Bay, on north bank 
 of river flowing into Kajuktok, southerly slope, about 350 feet above 
 sea level. 
 
 Menyanthes trifoliata, L. (Buckbean). E. B. D.: Near head of 
 Mokkovik Bay. Previously: P: Coast (Morrison); Hopedale 
 (Weiz). W: Holton. 
 
 Pleurogyne rotata, Griseb. (268) American Island (Seal Islands); 
 (273) Hopedale (Sept.). Previously: P: Coast (Gray). W: Bat- 
 tle Harbor, Sandwich Bay, Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 Borraginaeeae : 
 Mertensia maritima, Don. (Sea Lungwort), (297) St. Charles 
 River; (255) Pottle's Cove. E. B, D. : Common on the shore; noted 
 at Jigger Island, Aillik-Mokkovik, Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Straits of Belle Isle, In- 
 dian Harbor, St. Michael's. 
 Scrophulariacese : 
 tBartsia alpina, L. (86) Port Manvers; (17) Nachvak. Previously: 
 P: Coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister). M: Nachvak (Bell). 
 
 Castilleia pallida, Kunth, var. septentrionalis, Gray. (Painted 
 Cup). E. B. D.: Pomiadluk, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. 
 Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 fEuphrasia latifolia, Pursh. (30) Nachvak. Previously: F: Mok- 
 kovik, Hopedale. 
 
 Euphrasia sp. (34) Nachvak. E. B. D.: Some species, perhaps lati- 
 folia, perhaps oflicinalis, noted at Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Port Man- 
 vers, Iterungnek, Nachvak. Previously: (E. officinalis): BM: 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: L'anse au Clair, Battle 
 Harbor, Fox Harbor. 
 
 Pedicularis euphrasioides, Steph. (242, 279, 280) Southern Lab. 
 (170) Rodney Mundy Island; (95) Port Manvers. E. B. D: Brig 
 Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM:
 
 1 88 Report of tJic Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Sandwich Bay (Quinton); 
 Holton (How). M: Coast (Kohlmeister). 
 
 Pedicularis flammea, L. (243) Southern Lab. E. B. D.: Pottle's 
 Cove, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
 vak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Kohlmeister). 
 
 Pedicularis Qroenlandica, Retz. (96) Port Man vers. E. B, D.: 
 Pomiadluk, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 tRhinanthus Crista-galli, L. (Yellow Rattle). E. B. D.: Hope- 
 dale; Iterungnek-Saglek? Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Veronica alpina, L. (Speedwell). (89) Port Man vers, Iterungnek- 
 Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale (Weiz); 
 Nain (Lundberg). 
 
 Lentibulariacese : 
 
 fPinguicula villosa, L. ? (166) Rodney Mundy Island; (8, 13) 
 Nachvak. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). M: Labrador (Gray), 
 
 Pinguicula sp. (163) Jigger Island; (146) Pomiadluk. E. B. D.: 
 Two species noted, a smaller at Pottle's Cove, Brig Harbor Island; a 
 larger in abundance at Pomiadluk; both at Ford Harbor; one of 
 them at Saglek Bay. Previously: (P. alpina): P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 (P. vulgaris): BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W. For- 
 teau. Battle Harbor, Seal Islands, Snack Cove, Holton. 
 
 Plantaginacese : 
 Plantago maritima, L. (Seaside Plantain). (224) St. Charles River; 
 (157) Pomiadluk; (1^8) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Probably this 
 species also at Aillik-Mokkovik, Saglek Bay. Previously: BM: 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Polygonacege : 
 tMacounastrum (Kcenigia) Islandieum, Small. (100) Island near 
 Ford Harbor. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Oxyria digyna, Hill. (Mountain Sorrel). (91) Port Manvers; (29) 
 Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: 
 Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 *Polygonuin littorale, Link. (129) Ford Harbor. 
 
 Polygonum viviparum, L. (194) Southern Lab.; (296) St. Charles 
 River; (248, 263) Pottle's Cove. E. B. D.: Rodney Mundy Island, 
 Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Port Manvers. Previously: BM: Cape 
 Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Rumex sp. (282) Southern Lab.; (118) Ford Harbor. 
 
 Santalacese: 
 tComandra livida, tlich. (225) St. Charles River. Previously: 
 P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Morrison).
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 189 
 
 Betulacese: 
 Alnus viridis, DC. (Mountain Alder). E. B. D.: Aillik Bay, Mok- 
 kovik Bay, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek, Nachvak. Previously: 
 BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Coastof Lab. (Morrison). M: Ford Harbor 
 (Bell). 
 tBetula nana, L. (Dwarf Birch). (223) Southern Lab.; (229) Seal 
 Island; (337) Pottles Cove. E. B. D.: This or B. glandulosa is com- 
 mon everywhere throughout the coastal region ; was seen all the way 
 from St. Lewis Inlet in the extreme south northward to Nachvak. 
 Previously: B. nana and B. glandulosa are given by BM as syn- 
 onymous and recorded from Nachvak-Nain. No other definite record 
 except of glandulosa by F: Hopedale, Square Island. 
 
 Salicaeese : 
 
 Note ; — Some of these were identified by Professor Bailey, but most 
 of them were sent to Professor Rowlee, of Cornell. The initials of 
 the person who is responsible for the name of the specimen are 
 therefore given in each case after the name. In regard to the speci- 
 mens submitted to him. Professor Rowlee reports: " The willows 
 of northeastern North America and Greenland have not been thor- 
 oughl)^ worked out yet, and considerable confusion exists as to their 
 limits, especially in the group including S. Grcenlandica and S. 
 Brownii. Mr. Rydberg has recently described S. atra and S. Lab- 
 radorica, but I am not convinced yet that they are specifically 
 distinct. I have therefore adopted the more conservative view. He 
 also has substituted the name S. anglorum for Brownii, — another 
 move that there is still question about." 
 
 Salix argyrocarpa, Anders. (W. W. R.). (307) Great Caribou 
 Island. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Forteau (Allen). 
 
 Salix Brownii, (Anders) Lundst. (W. W. R.) (184) Southern Lab.; 
 (324, 328 to 335 inclusive) Pottle's Cove. Previously: F: Hope- 
 dale, Red Bay, Chateau Bay, Indian Harbor ; reported by Macoun 
 from "Labrador (Morrison)" and "Nachvak and Ford's Harbor 
 (Bell)," but included in subsequent lists as S. arctica. M. (V, 356, 
 1890), calls it S. Brownii, Bebb., with synonym S. arctica ; and gives 
 among his localities also Cape Chidley (Bell). 
 
 tSaiix Candida, Willd. (W. W. B.). (207) Southern Lab. Pre- 
 viously: P: Forteau Bay (Allen). 
 
 ♦Salix Grcenlandica, (Anders) Lundst. (W. W. R.). (183) South- 
 em Lab.; (165, 233, 234) Seal Islands. 
 
 t Salix herbacea, L. (W. W. B.). (66) Various places. E. B. D.: 
 Very common and unmistakable throughout the coast region. Noted 
 specially at Great Caribou Island, Ford Harbor, Port Manvers, Iter- 
 ttngek; seen often in many other places, but not recorded. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast (Morrison).
 
 190 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 *Salix Labradorica, Reydb. (S. Brownii ; see Bull. N. Y. Bot. Gar- 
 den, vol. I, No. 4, p. 274.— W.W. R.). (208) Southern Lab. 
 
 tSaUx phylieifolia, L. (W. W. R.). (336) Pottle's Cove. Pre- 
 viously: P: Nain and Ford's Harbor (Bell). 
 
 *Salix uva-ursi, Pursh. (W. W. B., fide Fernald). (182) Southern 
 Lab.; (230) Seal Island. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Ford 
 Harbor. Previously: P: Coast (Kohlmeister) ; Dead Islands 
 (Allen). 
 
 tSalix vestita, Pursh. (W. W. R.). (140) Aillik Bay; (347) Pomi- 
 adluk. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast (Kohlmeister). 
 
 Empetraeeae : 
 
 Empetrum nigrum, L. (Crowberry, Curlew-berry). (215) Southern 
 Lab. E. B. D. : The most abundant phenogamous plant of Labra- 
 dor ; found in large quantities at all places visited. Its very numer- 
 ous berries are not attractive when raw : the skin is tough, and the 
 contents are only a mass of large dry seeds and a watery almost 
 tasteless juice. But when cooked and sweetened the toughness of 
 skin and seeds disappears, and it develops a delicious flavor. Ih spite 
 of its exceeding abundance, the only previous references in au- 
 thorities consulted are : Low : abundant throughout the semi-barren 
 and barren regions of the peninsula, growing freely on the coast and 
 inland. BM : Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). M: Cape 
 Chidley (Bell). 
 
 Coniferse : 
 
 ♦Abies balsamea, Miller ? (Balsam Fir). E. B. D. : Pottle's Cove ; 
 this has been recorded previously only from the interior (Low ; but 
 see also Bell, Geol. Surv. Can., 1884, p. 13 DD) ; and as I brought no 
 specimen of it, I cannot now feel absolutely sure of the identification. 
 
 tJuniperus communis, L.. var. alpina. Gaud. (Jimiper, Dwarf 
 Cedar). E. B. D. : Pottle's Cove, Rodney Mundy Island. Pre- 
 viously : P : Coast of Lab. (Hooker). M : Labrador (Lawson & 
 How). 
 
 Larix Americana, Michx. (Larch, Tamarack, etc). E. B. D. : 
 Great Caribou Island, Pomiadluk, Aillik-Mokkovik, Hopedale. Pre- 
 viously : BM: Nachvak-Nain P: (Hooker). Low : probably the 
 hardiest tree of the sub-arctic forest belt : it grows everywhere 
 throughout the Labrador Peninsula, and is probably next in abun- 
 dance to the black spruce. F : Red Bay ; grows considerably north 
 of Nain ; an abundant tree. 
 
 tPicea alba. Link. (White Spruce). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
 Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Pomiadluk. Previously : P : 
 (Hooker). F: Tub Harbor. Low: found everywhere throughout 
 the wooded area of the peninsula, but is not everywhere common ; . . . 
 its distribution appears to depend altogether on the soil.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 191 
 
 fPicea nigra, Link. (Black Spruce). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
 Island, St. Charles River, Pottle's Cove, Rodney Mundy Island, 
 Aillik-Mokkovik, Ford Harbor, Nain. Previously : P : (Hooker). 
 F : Chateau Bay. Low : the most abundant tree of Labrador and 
 probably constitutes over ninety per cent of the forest. 
 Orchidacese : 
 
 tHabenaria dilatata, Gray. E. B. D. : Aillik, Mokkovik. Pre- 
 viously : P : Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
 
 tHabenaria obtusata, Rich. E. B. D. : Aillik Bay. Previously : 
 F : Indian Harbor. 
 
 Iridaceae : 
 Iris sp. E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island, Sloop Harbor (Seal Islands), 
 Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Hopedale. Previously : P : 
 I. Hookeri at Hopedale Island (Weiz). F: I. versicolor at Battle 
 Harbor. 
 
 Liliacese : 
 
 Clintonia borealis, Raf. E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island. Pre- 
 viously : F : Chateau Bay, Northwest River, Pitts Arm, Henley 
 Harbor, Red Bay. 
 
 tSmilaeina trifolia, Desf. (201) Southern Lab. E. B. D. : Great 
 Caribou Island, Pottle's Cove. Previously : F : Battle Harbor, Tub 
 Harbor. 
 
 Streptopus sp. (193) Southern Lab. E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
 Island, Brig Harbor Island, Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay. Previously: 
 (S. roseus) : P : Hopedale (Weiz). (S. amplexifolius) : F : Red Bay, 
 Indian Harbor, Hopedale, Mallijak. 
 
 Tofleldia palustris, Hudson. (158) Brig Harbor Island ; (98) 
 Island near Ford Harbor. E. B. D. : Iterungnek-Saglek. Pre- 
 viously : BM : Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz) ; coast 
 (Hooker). 
 
 Juncaeese : 
 ♦Juncus Castaneus, Smith ? (39) Nachvak. Previously: P: 
 
 Ungava Bay (Bamston). 
 Juncus trifldus, L. (107) Ford Harbor. Previously: F: Ramah, 
 
 Carroll Cove. B : Grand River. 
 tLuzula arcuata, Meyer. (310) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 
 
 BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Ungava Bay (Bamston). M: Cape Chi dley 
 
 (Bell). 
 ♦Luzula hyperborea, R. Br. (26) Mt. Faunce: 3,500 to 4,400 feet 
 
 above sea level. 
 Cyperacese : 
 ♦Carex compaeta, R. Br. (311) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 
 
 M: Cape Chidley (Bell) ; but not included in his later list in Low un- 
 less as C. rotiindata (Wahl).
 
 192 Report of the Bronm-H award Expedition. 
 
 ♦Carex filifolia, Nutt. (38) Nachvak. " Apparently first station 
 east of Manitoba " (Femald). 
 
 tCarex rariflora, Smith, (fide Femald). (284, 289, 291) Hare 
 Island (St. Lewis Inlet). Previously: F: Hopedale, Webeck 
 Harbor. 
 
 tCarex rigida, Good. (C. vulgaris, Fries, var. hyperborea, Boott.). 
 (339) Southern Lab.; (313) Brig Harbor Island; (104, 108, 115) 
 Ford Harbor; (69) Hebron; (40) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 
 BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 
 
 ♦Eriophorum alpinum, L. (338) Southern Lab.; (318) Jigger 
 Island; (114) ? Ford Harbor. 
 
 *Eriophorum polystachyon, L. (340) Southern Lab.; (346) Lo- 
 cality unknown; (323) ? Port Manvers. Previously: P: var. 
 angustifolium at Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Eriophorum sp. E. B. D.: One or more species grow freely from 
 Hebron northward. 
 
 Seirpus csespitosus, L. (303) St. Charles River. Previously: BM: 
 
 Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
 
 Seirpus sp. (236) Seal Islands. 
 Graminlse: 
 
 fAgrostis sp. (110) Ford Harbor. Previously only A. rubra, L., 
 by F: Hopedale, Hebron. 
 
 tCalamagrostis Canadensis, Beauv. (113) Ford Harbor. Pre- 
 viously: B: Grand River. 
 
 Calamagrostis sp. (292) Hare Island; (321) Port Manvers; (309) 
 Nachvak. 
 
 ♦Catabrosa aquatiea, (L.). Beauv. (Aira aquatica, L.). (272) 
 American Island (Seal Islands). 
 
 tElymus arenarius, L. (E. mollis, Trin.). (325) Pottle's Cove. Pre- 
 viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 
 tFestuca brevifolia, R. Br. (314) Brig Harbor Island. Previously: 
 BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
 
 *Pestuca rubra, L. (288) Hare Island; (103) Ford Harbor. Britton 
 & Brown refer this to Labrador, but I find no other reference to any 
 part of the Peninsula. 
 
 tHierochloe alpina, Roem. & Schl. (105, 116) Ford Harbor; (42) 
 Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
 Nain. P: Ungava Bay (Barnston). 
 
 tHierochloe borealis, Roem. & Schl. (345) Aillik Bay; (30a) 
 Nachvak. Previously: F: Mallijak (Hamilton Inlet). 
 
 tPoa alpina, L. (286) Hare Island; (80) Port Manvers or Mugford ; 
 (112) Ford Harbor; (312) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
 Cape Chidley. M: Nain (Bell).
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 193 
 
 tPoa glumaris, Trin. (344) Aillik Bay. Previously: F: Nain; 
 southern coast. 
 
 tPoalaxa, Hsnke. (327) Pottle's Cove; (111) Ford Harbor. Pre- 
 viously: F: Ramah. 
 
 *Poa nemoralis, L. (319) Jigger Island. 
 
 Poa sp. (287) Hare Island; (108) Ford Harbor. 
 
 tPhleum alpinum, L. (322) PortManvers. Previously: F: Ramah. 
 
 tTrisetum subspicatum, Beauv., var. molle, Gray. (315) Mug- 
 ford; (79) Mugford or Port Manvers; (41, 44, 45, 46) Hebron- 
 Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 
 Genus unknown: (300, 301, 302, 305) St. Charles River. 
 
 Equisetacese: 
 Equisetum sylvaticum, L. (237) Seal Island; (81) Port Manvers or 
 Mugford; (251) Pottle's Cove. E. B. D.: Rodney Mundy Island. 
 Jigger Island. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 
 (Weiz). 
 
 Pilices: 
 
 tAspidium fragrans,-Swartz. (68) Hebron; (3, 8, 16) Nachvak. 
 Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. 
 
 tAspidium spinulosum, Swartz. (293,294^ Southern Lab. Previ- 
 ously : B : Grand River, F. reports var. dilatatum as probably the 
 commonest form of the species in Labrador. 
 
 Phegopteris; Dryopteris, Fee. (290) Hare Island. Previously: 
 F: Webeck Harbor, Tub Harbor, Mokkovik. B: Grand River. 
 
 tPhegopteris polypodioides, Fee. (179) Rodney Mundy Island. 
 Previously: F: Battle Harbor, Webeck Harbor. 
 
 tWoodsia Ilvensis, R. Br. (148) Jigger Island; (135) Aillik Bay; 
 (37) Nachvak. Previously: F. Ramah. 
 
 Lyoopodiacese : 
 tLyeopodium alpinum, L. (316) Mugford. Previously: F: Davis 
 
 Inlet. 
 tLycopodium^ annotinum, L. (343) Southern Lab. Previously: 
 
 B : Grand River. F reports var. pungens from Hopedale, Chateau 
 
 Bay, Red Bay. 
 *Lycopodium lueidulum, Michx. (341) Southern Lab. (320) Jigger 
 
 Island. 
 tLyeopodium Selago, L. (342) Southern Lab. ; (317) Jigger Island; 
 
 (308) Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Nain and 
 I Ford Harbor (Bell).
 
 194 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 B. MOSSES AND HEPATICS. 
 
 Note. — The examination of these plants is still incomplete. Mr. 
 Collins reports on them as follows: " Specimens collected (mostly 
 without fruit) 114; specimens determined, about 85; species deter- 
 mined, 29. Thirteen of these have already been reported from sev- 
 eral localities on the Labrador coast, Five of them have been 
 reported from one locality only. Of the remaining eleven, two (Di- 
 cranum fuseescens, Polytrieum piliferum) have been indefi- 
 nitely reported from " Labrador;" five (Brachythecium sale- 
 brosum, Conostomum boreale, Dicranum Bergeri, Pogo- 
 natum capillare, Polytrieum .commune,) are very common 
 throughout North America and are reported from both Greenland 
 and Newfoundland, and it would be very surprising if they did not 
 occur on the Labrador coast, although there is no previous record of 
 them; three others are entirely new : Mnium. punctatum. elatum. 
 is known in Miquelon, but the type has been reported also from the 
 Labrador coast; Barbula ruralis is known previously only from 
 further north and west ; Splachnum Worm.skjoldii seems to be a 
 very good find, having ;been known heretofore only from high north- 
 ward—Smith Sound (78°— 82° N.), Greenland, Norway, Lapland, 
 Spitzbergen. and N.Asia; and finally one (No. 26b, see below), if a 
 variety of Pogonatum urnigerum, is here found much farther 
 north and at a higher altitude than previously known. Most of the 
 undetermined specimens are apparently more or less common species 
 (or duplicates), although, from a hasty perusal, a few of them may 
 prove interesting, as I cannot place them without further study." 
 
 For the detennination of previously recorded localities, "Paris: 
 Index Bryologicus (1894-1900)" has been consulted, in addition to the 
 authorities already referred to. Specimens recorded below merely as 
 from the " Atlantic coast of Labrador" were gathered in a variety 
 of places and seemed to the collector to be so common and widely 
 distributed that no more definite local references were made. 
 
 Musci: 
 Andresea petrophila, Ehrh. (1) Atlantic coast of Labrador; (30) 
 
 Mt. Faunce. Previously: M: Deep Water Creek, Venison Tickle, 
 
 Battle Harbor, Bolster Rocks (Waghorne). 
 Aulaeomnium palustre, (L) Schwaegr. (44, a form , 62, 90, 94) 
 
 Atlantic coast of Labrador; (32a, 35b, 70, 73, 77b) Nachvak. 
 
 Previously: M: Battle Harbor, Cape Charles, Fox Harbor (Wag- 
 home); Whale Island, Chateau Bay (Allen). 
 Aulaeomnium turgidum, (Wahlen.) Schwaegr. (116a) Atlantic 
 
 coast of Labrador. Previously: M: Seal Islands, Battle Harbor 
 
 (Waghorne). 
 
 ♦Barbula ruralis, (L) Hedw. (20) Pottle's Cove.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 195 
 
 *Brachythecium salebrosum var. palustre, Schpr. ( ?114) Atlantic 
 coast of Labrador, 
 
 Ceratodon purpureas, Brid. (78b, 79) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 Previously: M: Squaw Head, Venison Tickle (Waghorne). 
 
 *Conostoniuin boreale, Swartz. (72) Nachvak. 
 
 *Dicranum Bergeri, Bland. (83a) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 
 *Dicranura fusceseens. Turn. ; (or possibly D. eongestum. — J. F. 
 C.) (13b, 50b) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 
 tGrimmia apocarpa, (L) Hedw. (107b) Atlantic coast of Labra- 
 dor. Previously: M: Battle Harbor (Waghorne). 
 
 tHyloeomium splendens, (Hedw.) Bry. Eur. (21) Pottle's Cove. 
 Previously: M: Battle Harbor (Waghorne). 
 
 tHypnum cordifolium, Hedw. (16) Hopedale. Previously: M: 
 Battle Harbor (Waghorne). 
 
 Hypnum revolvens, Swz. (54, 113) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 
 Previously: M: Battle Harbor, Square Island (Waghorne). 
 Hypnum Schreberi, Willd. (45b, 51, 61, 63b, 64a, 87a) Atlantic 
 
 coast of Labrador. Previously: B: Hamilton River; M: Deep 
 
 Water Creek, Battle Harbor (Waghorne). 
 
 Hypnum stramineum, Dicks. (12, 57a) Atlantic coast of Labra- 
 dor. Previously: M: Cape Chidley (Bell); Indian Harbor, Venison 
 Tickle (Waghorne). 
 
 Hypnum uneinatum, Hedw. (7, 57c) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 Previously: M: Cape Chidley (Bell); Square Island, Seal Islands, 
 Battle Harbor (Waghorne). 
 
 *Mnium punetatum var. elatum, Schpr. (17, 24) Rodney Mundy 
 
 Island. Previously: (Mnium punc. non var.) M: Battle Harbor 
 
 (Waghorne). 
 Pogonatum alpinum, Roehl. (89) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 
 Previously : M : Little Bay Islands, Western Cove, Cape Charles, 
 
 Deep Water Bay (Waghorne). 
 
 *Pogonatum alpinum var., or P. urnigerum, (Beauv.) var. (26b) 
 Mt. Faunce. " It seems to be a form of one of these. It is, how- 
 ever, very different from either in their typical form, especially in 
 regard to size of plant, and size and margin of leaves. I am some- 
 what more inclined to think it a variety of P. alpinum now than T 
 was at the first examination. I am unable (or have been so far) to 
 find a description of any variety of either species which seems to fit 
 your plant. In the absence of fruit, I am afraid it will be somewhat 
 difficult to say with any degree of certainty of which it is a form, 
 unless an authentic specimen can be found somewhere that exactly 
 fits it."— (J- F. C.) 
 
 *Pogonatum capillare, Brid. (27) Mt. Faunce.
 
 196 Report of the Br ozmi-H award Expedition. 
 
 *Polytricum commune, L. (15) Ford Harbor; (59, 63d) Atlantic 
 coast of Labrador. 
 
 Polytricum juniperinum, Willd. (78a) Atlantic coast of Labrador ; 
 
 (74) Nachvak. Previously: B : Grand River; BM.: Cape"Chidley, 
 
 Nachvak-Nain ; M : Little Bay Islands (Waghome). 
 ♦Polytricum piliferum, Schreb. (107a) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 tPolytrieum strictum. Banks. (9, 10a, 45c, 50a, 58, 80a, 85b, 
 
 99) Atlantic coast of Labrador; (23a) Brig Harbor Island ; (35a, 
 
 77a) Nachvak. Previously: M : Nain (Bell). 
 
 Eacomitrium eaneseens, Brid. (34b) Nachvak. Previously: 
 
 M : Seal Island, Venison Tickle (Waghome). 
 
 tRaeomitrium lanuginosum, (Hedw.) Brid. (22b) Brig Harbor 
 Island ; (25, 28, 29a, 31b) Mt. Faunce ; 63a, 67,86a) Atlantic coast 
 of Labrador. Previously : M : near Venison Tickle (Waghome). 
 
 Sphagnum acutifolium, Ehrh. (65, 106) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
 •Previously: M: Cartridge Bight, Seal Islands, Spence's Cove 
 (Waghome). 
 
 ♦Splachnum Wormskjoldii, Hornem. (111b, 112) Seal Island. 
 
 Tetraplodon mnioides, (L. f.) Bry. Eur. (109, 110, Ilia) Seal 
 Island; (101) Atlantic coast of Labrador. Previously: M: Paro- 
 quet Island (Allen);, Indian Harbor, Venison Tickle, Battle Harbor, 
 Seal Island (Waghome). 
 HepaticsB : 
 
 Note. — None of these are reported by the previously-named 
 authorities, nor by W. H. Pearson in his List of ICanadian Hepa- 
 ticcB (1890). All the specimens recorded below are from the Atlantic 
 coast of Labrador, but no more definite locality can be given. 
 
 *Blepharostoma trichophyllum, Dum. (3a, 4a. ) 
 
 *Fimbriaria tenella, Nees. (4c.) 
 
 * Jungermannia ventricosa, Dicks. (13a.) 
 
 ♦Lepidozia setacea. Mitt. ( ? 3b.) 
 ■ *Marsupella emarginata, Dum. ( ? 88b.) 
 
 ♦Nardia crenulata, Lindb. (?4b.) 
 
 ♦Ptilidium ciliare, Nees. (2, 6, 60, 80b, 86c.) 
 
 C LICHENS. 
 
 [Note. — The following report on lichens is by Miss Clara E. Cum- 
 mings. Associate Professor of Cryptogamic Botany at Wellesley Col- 
 lege, who kindly undertook the task of identification. Those 
 recorded from "no definite locality" were gathered at various 
 places on the Atlantic coast of Labrador, between St. Lewis 
 Sound and Hebron.— E. B. D.]
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 197 
 
 The latest publication on the lichens of Labrador is the pamphlet enti- 
 tled Labrador, published by Dr. F. Arnold at Munich in 1896. This is 
 based on the work of Meyer (i), Schlechtendahl (2), Breutel (3), Tucker- 
 man (4), Wainio (5), and Eckfeldt (6), and on specimens collected by the 
 Rev. Mr. Waghome and communicated to Dr. Arnold by Mr. J. W. Eck- 
 feldt. 
 
 (l) Meyer, Em., De plantis Labradoricis libri tres, 18 jo. (2) Schlech- 
 tendahl, D. F. L. V, Ueber die Flora von Labrador, in Linncea, i8j6. 
 (3) Breutel, Flora German. Exsiccata, 1832, 1843. (4) Tuckerman, 
 Synopsis N. A. L. I, 1882 ; II, 1888. (5) Wainio, Monographia Clado- 
 niarium. I, i8'/6 ; II, i8p4. (6) Eckfeldt, J. W., An enumeration of 
 the lichens of Newfoundland and Labrador, Bull. Torrey Bot. Club, iSg^. 
 
 The total number of species given in Dr. Arnold's list is one hundred 
 and twenty-seven, besides numerous varieties and forms. The present 
 collection of forty-three specimens includes five species which are not 
 recorded in Dr. Arnold's list, namely, Cetraria Islandica van platyna, 
 Cetraria cuctillata, Theloschistes poly carpus, Lecanora palles- 
 cens, and Cladonia bellidiflora var. ochropallida. 
 
 1. Cetraria arctica, (Hook.) Tuck. On Mt. Fatmee, at an altitude 
 of 3,500-4,000 ft.; also at Nachvak. The species appears in Eckfeldt's 
 enumeration. 
 
 2. Cetraria Islandica, (L. )Ach. Mixed with Cetraria cucuUata 
 and C. nivalis. Both Arnold and Eckfeldt credit it to Labrador upon 
 material collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghome, and in my own herbarium 
 I have material collected by him at Battle Harbor. 
 
 3. Cetraria Islandica, (L.)Ach., d. platyna (Ach.)Th. Fr. With 
 the preceding species and also mixed with Cladonia rangiferina, CI. syl- 
 vatica and Stereocaulon tomentosum. A specimen in my herbarium 
 was collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghome at L'anse au Loup. 
 
 4. Cetraria Islandica, (L.)Ach., b. Delissei (Bor.) Schaer. This 
 variety is recorded in Eckfeldt's list, and a specimen in my own her- 
 barium was collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghome at West S. Modeste. 
 
 5. Cetraria cucuUata, (Bell.) Ach. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
 altitude, and at Nachvak, with Cetraria arctica, C. Islandica and Cla- 
 donia rangiferina. Evidently this is one of the most common species 
 as indicated by the fragments mixed with many other lichens, though it 
 does not appear in Dr. Arnold's list. 
 
 6. Cetraria nivalis, (L.) Ach. On Mt. Fatmee, 3,500-4,000 ft. alti- 
 tude; other specimens have no definite locality recorded. It occurs alone 
 and mixed with Cetraria Islandica and species of Cladonia. It is given 
 in Eckfeldt's enumeration, and a specimen in my herbarium was col- 
 lected by the Rev. Mr. Waghome at Battle Harbor. 
 
 7. Cetraria Fahlunensis, (L.) Schaer. The species is recorded in 
 Eckfeldt's enumeration, and my herbarium contains a specimen collected 
 by the Rev. Mr. Waghome at Battle Harbor.
 
 198 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 8. Cetraria glauca, (L.) Ach., v. fusca (Flot.) Tuck. Recorded also 
 in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 9. Alectoria divergens, (Ach.) Nyl. On Mt. Faunae, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
 altitude, with Alectoria nigricans. Various specimens were collected, 
 either growing alone or mixed with A. nigricans, Cetraria, nivalis or 
 species of Cladonia. The species is recorded in Eckfeldt's enumera- 
 tion. It also appears in Arnold's list, having been collected at Long 
 Island. It is represented in my herbarium by specimens collected by the 
 Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Long Island and Battle Harbor. 
 
 10. Alectoria jubata, (L.)Ach. Recorded by Eckfeldt. 
 
 11. Alectoria nigricans, (Ach. ) Nyl. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
 altitude, -intermixed with Cladonia, Cetraria, Alectoria nigricans and 
 fragments of Sphserophoron. Specimens were also collected for which 
 no definite locality was given. It is given in Arnold's list as having 
 been collected at Blanc Sablon and at Capstan Island. Eckfeldt records 
 it under the synonym Alectoria ochroleuca (Ehrh.)Nyl., var. nigricans, 
 Ach.; and Tuckerman as A. ochroleuca (Ehrh.) Nyl., a. rigida, Fr., nigri- 
 cans, Ach. 
 
 12. Alectoria ochroleuca, (Ehrh.) Nyl.,c. sarmentosa (Ach.) Nyl. 
 Var. at Mokkovik. Recorded by Eckfeldt and represented in my herbarium 
 by a specimen collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Battle Harbor. 
 
 13. Theloschistes poly carpus, (Ehrh.) Tuck. Mt. Faunce, 3,500- 
 4,000 ft. altitude. New to Labrador. 
 
 14. Parmelia saxatilis, (L. ) Fr. This species is given in Eckfeldt's 
 enumeration and is in "my herbarium from Battle Harbor, Labrador, col- 
 lected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne. Dr. Arnold reports its occurrence at 
 Capstan Island and at L'anse au Clair. 
 
 15. Parmelia saxatilis, (L.) Fr., d. omphalodes Fr. Given in Eck- 
 feldt's (numeration and in my herbarium from Battle Harbor, collected 
 by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne. 
 
 16. Parmelia physodes, (L.)Ach., b. obscurata, Ach. Given in 
 Eckfeldt's enumeration. A very variable form. In some specimens the 
 lobes of the thallus are very long and narrow, as in var. vittata, in others 
 wide and ventricose-infiated, as in var. enteromorpha, while in still 
 others the lobes are extremely abbreviated and closely massed. 
 
 17. Umbilicaria eylindrica, (L.) Delis. The specimens are well 
 fruited. The species is recorded by Tuckerman and Eckfeldt. Collected 
 also at West S. Modeste by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne, and represented in my 
 herbarium. No. 1136 in Breutel's Exsiccata under Gyrophora. 
 
 18. Umbilicaria proboscidea, (L.)DC. Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 
 ft. altitude. The specimens were fertile. Recorded also by Eckfeldt ; 
 recorded by Arnold as occurring at Forteau under the synonym Gyrophora. 
 
 19. Umbilicaria hyperborea, Hoffm. Fertile. The species is 
 listed by Eckfeldt, and also represented in my herbarium by a specimen
 
 E. B. Ddabarre, Ph. D. 199 
 
 from Blanc Sablon collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne. Arnold lists it 
 as collected at L'anse au Loup. 
 
 20. Umbilicaria vellea, (L.) Nyl. Nachvak. Only sterile speci- 
 mens. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 21. Nephroma arcticum, (L.) Fr. Specimens fine and well fruited. 
 Recorded by Eckfeldt; also in Arnold's list as collected by Herzberg in 
 Labrador, and as represented in Breutel's Exs. 204. 
 
 22. Solorina croeea, (L.) Ach. Only sterile fragments. Recorded 
 by Tuckerman as occurring in Labrador; also given in Eckfeldt's enum- 
 eration. 
 
 23. Placodium elegans, (Link.) DC. One sterile specimen. Also 
 recorded by Eckfeldt. 
 
 24. Lecanora pallescens, (L.) Schaer. Fruit immature, and there- 
 fore the determination is somewhat uncertain. New to Labrador. 
 
 25. Pertusaria dactylina, (Ach.) Nyl. Recorded by Eckfeldt and 
 also by Arnold as having been found at L'anse au Mort and L'anse au 
 Loup. 
 
 26. Stereoeaulon tomentosum, Fr. Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
 altitude; also various specimens with no definite locality. Evidently 
 quite common. Recorded also by Eckfeldt. 
 
 27. Stereoeaulon denudatum, Floerk. Nachvak, Mt. Faunce, 
 3,500-4,000 ft. altitude. Both this and the preceding species were sterile. 
 Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 28. Sphserophoron fragile, (Crantz.) Pers. Several specimens, all 
 sterile, differing considerably in appearance. In the typical form the 
 branches of the thallus are spreading and open, but one specimen has the 
 lobes of the thallus very much abbreviated and closely caespitose. Re- 
 corded in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 29. Sphserophoron coralloides, Pers. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 
 ft. altitude, all the specimens sterile; also at Brig Harbor, July 26, 
 1900; and other specimens with no definite locality. Given in Eckfeldt's 
 enumeration; also in Arnold's list as found at Long Island and at L'anse 
 au Loup. 
 
 30. Cladonia pyxidata, (L.)Fr., var. poeillum (Ach.) Flot. No 
 definite locality given. Recorded in Arnold's list as collected by Herz- 
 berg at Okak; also given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 31. Cladonia gracilis, (L.) Willd., var. choridalis (Floerk.) 
 Schaer. Represented by six specimens, three of which were collected 
 at Nachvak. The specimens vary considerably in size, those from Nach- 
 vak being rather short and compact. All the specimens are sterile. Also 
 recorded in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 32. Cladonia rangiferina, (L.) Web. Emend. Mixed with Cetraria 
 nivalis, C. cuculatta, C. Islandica, etc. Everywhere; specially noted at
 
 200 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 Aillik-Mokkovik, Hebron- 1 terungnek, Nachvak. Recorded in Arnold's 
 list as collected by Herzberg at Okak. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 
 
 33. Cladonia sylvatiea, (L. ) Hoffm., a. sylvestris, Oed. Nachvak. 
 Given in Arnold's list as CI. sylvatiea. Collected by Herzberg at Okak. 
 
 34. Cladonia alpestris, (L.) Rabenh. Everywhere; specially noted 
 at Aillik-Mokkovik, Hebron-Iterungnek. Recorded by Arnold as 
 collected at Blanc Sablon. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration as CI. syl- 
 vatiea var. alpestris. 
 
 35. Cladonia uneialis, (L.) Web. No definite locality recorded. 
 Growing with Cetraria nivalis. Wainio states that it was collected in 
 Labrador by Morrison. 
 
 36. Cladonia coecifera, (L.) Willd. At Aillik-Mokkovik. Speci- 
 mens fertile and rather reduced in size. Given in Arnold's list as col- 
 lected by Herzberg. 
 
 37. Cladonia bellidiflora, (Ach.) Schaer. At Aillik-Mokkovik. 
 Specimens are well-fruited. Recorded by Tuckerman as occurring- in 
 Labrador. Given in Arnold's list as collected by Herzberg at Okak, and 
 as appearing in Breutel's Exs. 103, collected by Henne; also as collected at 
 West S. Modeste. A specimen in my herbarium was collected by the Rev. 
 Mr. Waghome at L'anse au Clair. 
 
 38. Cladonia bellidiflora, (Ach.) Schaer.. e. oehropallida, Flot. 
 With the preceding. A very delicate specimen. 
 
 39. Cladonia deformis, (L.) Hoffm. No definite locality recorded. 
 Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration without locality. All the specimens are 
 sterile. 
 
 40. Cladonia reticulata, (Russell) Wainio. Some of the specimens 
 are very large and much inflated and these are less reticulate than the 
 smaller specimens. Listed by Dr. Arnold on the authority of Tucker- 
 man, who credits the specimen to Mr. W. A. Steams. 
 
 41. Lecidea alboeoerulescens, (Wulf) Schaer., var. flavocoeru- 
 lescens, Schaer. A small sterile specimen may perhaps be referred here. 
 Eckfeldt records the occurrence of this variety in Labrador. 
 
 42. Lecidea platycarpa, Ach. On rock with the following species. 
 
 43. Buellia geographica, (L.)Tuck. Pottle's Cove. On rock. 
 Listed by Dr. Arnold under the synomyn Rhizocarpon geographicum, L. 
 
 D. FUNGI. 
 
 Note. — The fungi were collected along the coast, mainly from Mok- 
 kovik, Hopedale, Nain and Nachvak. The remarks in quotation-marks 
 below are from Professor Farlow's notes on the specimens. The only 
 fungi previously reported from Labrador in the lists consulted as named 
 above are: Lycoperdon, Russula, Agaricus, and seven minute species, 
 all given in Bell's list.
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. , 201 
 
 D denotes identification from description. 
 
 S " " " preserved specimen. 
 
 X " " by E. B. D. only. 
 
 4S. *Boletinus deeipiens, Pk. ( Boletus decipiens, B. & C.) " This 
 is Boletus decipiens, I think. The species is really a Bole- 
 tinus rather than a Boletus. It is not very well known." 
 
 3S. *Boletus scaber, Fr. ? " This is near B. scaber." 
 
 iS, 2D. *Boletus variegatus, Swartz. E. B. D.: Noted at Ford Harbor 
 and common all the way between Hebron and Nachvak. 
 
 X. Boletus sp. E. B. D.: One or more species noted at Pottle's 
 Cove (two specimens), abundant at Ford Harbor, very 
 abundant at Port Man vers, at Nachvak, and on the return 
 at Nain and Hopedale. 
 
 6S. *Collybia lacerata, Lasch. 
 
 5S. *Cortinarius sp. 
 
 7D. *Cortinarius sp. "A Cortinarius, but no mortal knows the 
 species of that genus." E. B. D.: From Port Manvers, 
 Iterungnek-Saglek. 
 
 8D. *Entoloma olypeus, vel aff . E. B. D. : From Port Manvers, 
 Iterungnek-Saglek. 
 
 6D. *Hypholoraa sp. " The fungus is apparently a Hypholoma, 
 but I do not recognize the species." From Port Manvers. 
 
 7S. *Inocybe sp. " An Inocybe not to be named except on micro- 
 scopical examination." 
 
 2S. *Lactarius vellerius, Fr. ; "probably." 
 
 8S. Lactarius sp. "A small Lactarius, perhaps near L. vietus. 
 It needs to be compared with other species as to microscopic 
 chai-acter." 
 
 9S. *Lenzites abietina, Fr. 
 
 X. *Lyeoperdon saecatum, Vahl., probably. Ford Harbor, 
 Iterungnek. 
 
 X. *Lycoperdon sp. Port Manvers, Iterungnek. 
 
 X. *Peziza ? In hot-house at Ramah. 
 
 loS. *B.ussula lepida, Fr. ? " This appears to be R. lepida, but notes 
 on appearance when fresh are needed." Seen at Mugford, 
 Iterungnek, Nachvak. 
 
 loD&c. Russulse. " The Russvilse cannot be named without more notes 
 and specimens." Seen in considerable quantity at same 
 places as the last; also at Port Manvers, Nain, Hopedale.
 
 202 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expeditwn. 
 
 IX. 
 
 REPORT ON ORNITHOLOGY. 
 
 By Henry B. Bigelow. 
 
 [Note. — Mr. Bigelow sent his list to the editor with the following words 
 of explanation : " I am enclosing the list of Labrador birds, for which you 
 asked. I suppose you want it condensed, and have made it in fact little 
 more than a list of names, with brief notes on their relative abundance 
 and distribution. I have given no introduction at all, as I suppose your 
 paper will describe the nature of the country so fully as to make one 
 superfluous." 
 
 This list was prepared earlier than that published by Mr. Bigelow 
 in Auk, January, 1902. The latter has not the same numbering as this, 
 and contains a few additions and corrections. Added are : Botaurtis 
 lentiginosus, Tringa alpina paciflca, Spinus pinus, Sylvania 
 pusilla, Sylvania * canadensis. The following changes are made : 
 No. 28 to Aythya marila ; 30 to Somateria borealis ; 51 to Lagopus 
 albus ; 64 to Passeroulus sandwichensis labradorius ; 75 to Parus 
 atricapillus ; 76 to Tardus alieise. Numbers 28, 35 and 64 are ap- 
 parently without previous record from this coast. — E. B. D.] 
 
 1. Urinator imber. "Loon." Rather uncommon. We met them 
 
 singly or in pairs in the bays and fiords in August and September. 
 Not found nesting. 
 
 2. Urinator lumme. Red-throated Loon. "Wabby." Reported by 
 
 the settlers as common. We saw only a few, in September. 
 
 3. Pratereula aretica. Puffin. Common. One of the more charac- 
 
 teristic sea-fowl, of local abundance. Near their rookeries they 
 were very abundant during July. In August they were more gen- 
 erally distributed. We saw comparatively few north of Cape 
 Harrigan. 
 
 4. Cepphus grylle. Black Guillemot. Pigeon. Very abundant all 
 
 along the coast. The most numerous of all the water fowl, after 
 the kittiwakes. Breeding commonly on the smaller islets. Much 
 used by the settlers as an article of food. 
 
 5. Uria troile. Murre. Common, but much less so than formerly, 
 
 owing to "eggers." Breeding still in considerable colonies. Com- 
 paratively scarce north of Cape Harrison, though reported to be 
 abundant along the northern coast later in the fall. 
 
 6. Uria lomvia. Bfiinnich's Murre. Rather less common than the 
 
 last. We saw none north of Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 7. Alea torda. Razor-billed Auk. Common, particularly so about 
 
 Hamilton Inlet, and just north of Belle Isle. At Port Manvers we 
 saw only a few. In July we usually found them in the loose fioe-ice. 
 
 ♦The omission of capitals in proper names is in accordance with the wishes of the author.
 
 E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 203 
 
 8. Alle alle. Dovekie. Reported abundant in fall and winter. I saw 
 
 only one specimen, off Cape Harrison on Sept. i8th. 
 
 9. Stercorarius pomarinus. Pomarine Jsger. Much less common 
 
 than the two following. 
 
 10. Stercorarius parasiticus. Parasitic Jasger. 
 
 11. Stercorarius longicaudus. Long-tailed Jasger. Both this and pre- 
 
 ceding common, of about equal abundance. Usually with flocks of 
 kittiwakes. 
 
 12. Rissa tridactyla. Kittiwake. Most abundant sea-bird. Found 
 
 everywhere in great numbers. 
 
 13. Larus glaucus. Ice Gull, Burgomaster, Glaucous Gull. More and 
 
 more common the further north we went. Abundant at Port 
 Man vers. Not seen south of Cape Harrison. 
 
 14. Larus marinus. Black-backed Gull. Abundant. Breeds com- 
 
 monly, though not in colonies. 
 
 15. Larus argentatus smithsonianus. Herring Gull. Common all 
 
 along the coast. 
 
 16. Larus delawarensis. Ring-billed Gull. I took one young bird 
 
 at Port Manvers on Sept. 6th. No others seen. 
 
 17. Larus Philadelphia. Bonaparte's Gull. Rather common about 
 
 Belle Isle late in September. Not seen further north. 
 
 18. Sterna paradisaea. Arctic Tern. A few seen about Belle Isle in 
 
 July and again late in September. 
 
 19. Pulmarus glacialis. Noddy. Rather common off shore with the 
 
 shearwaters. 
 
 20. PufQ.nus major. Greater Shearwater. Common off shore in large 
 
 flocks. 
 
 21. PufSnus stricklandi. Sooty Shearwater. Common with the pre- 
 
 ceding. 
 
 22. Oceanodroma leucorhoa. Leach's Petrel. Common, breeding 
 
 locally in considerable numbers south of Hamilton Inlet. We saw 
 none further north. 
 
 23. Sula bassana. Gannet. A few seen in July and September about 
 
 Belle Isle. 
 
 24. Phalaerocorax carbo. Cormorant. A few seen about Belle Isle. 
 
 None further north. 
 
 25. Phalaerocorax dilophus. Double-crested Cormorant. A few seen 
 
 about Belle Isle, none further north. 
 
 26. Merganser serrator. Red-breasted Merganser. Common. Breeding 
 
 all along the coast. 
 
 27. Anas obscura. Black Duck. Rather uncommon on the coast. 
 
 28. Aythya marila nearctica. Greater Scaup Duck. One specimen 
 
 from Dr. Grenfell, shot at Nain, October, 1899.
 
 204 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 29. Qlaucionetta clangula americana. American Golden Eye. 
 
 Rare; one near Paul's Island, August nth. 
 
 30. Somateria moUissima borealis. Greenland Eider. Abundant 
 
 north of Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 31. Somateria dresseri. American Eider. Common on the more 
 
 southern coast. 
 
 32. Oidemia americana. Black Scoter. Common in the fiords in Sep- 
 
 tember. 
 
 33. Oidem.ia deglandi. White-winged Scoter. Common along the 
 
 coast and in the fiords in September. 
 
 34. Oidemia perspicillata. Surf Scoter. Common along the coast and 
 
 in the fiords in September. 
 
 35. Anser albifrons gambelli. White-fronted Goose. One specimen 
 
 from Dr. Hettasch, Hopedale, May, 1900. 
 
 36. Branta canadensis. Canada Goose. Abundant along the coast in 
 
 spring, common in fall from September 20th. 
 
 37. Branta berniela. Brant. Rare. One specimen from Dr. Grenfell, 
 
 Nain, October, 1899. 
 
 38. Crymophilus fulicarius. Red Phalarope. Not uncommon ofiE 
 
 shore, 
 39.£^Ph.alaropus lobatus. Northern Phalarope. Common, breeding 
 t'j; ^<>i commonly along most of the coast. 
 
 40. Gallinago delieata. Snipe. Rare. Two or three at Cape St. 
 
 Francis Harbor late in September. 
 
 41. Tringa maculata. Pectoral Sandpiper. Abundant at Manvers and 
 
 Hopedale in August and September. 
 
 42. Tringa fusicoUis. White-rumped Sandpiper. Abundant along the 
 
 shore in August and September. 
 
 43. Tringa rainutilla. Least Sandpiper. Rather common, breeding 
 
 locally, 
 
 44. EreunetGS pusillus. Semi-palmated Sandpiper. Common, breed- 
 
 ing locally. Young found on July i8th, at Seal Island. 
 
 45. Calidris arenaria. Sanderling. Rather scarce, August andj Sep- 
 
 tember. 
 
 46. Totanus melanoleucus. Greater! Yellow-legs. Rather scarce, in 
 
 August and September. Not found breeding. 
 
 47. Actitis macularia. Spotted Sandpiper. Very numerous, breeding 
 
 almost everywhere. 
 
 48. Numenius borealis. Eskimo Curlew. Barely a remnant of their 
 
 former numbers. Nearly exterminated. A few were seen during 
 September, perhaps eight or ten. 
 
 49. Charadrius dominicus. Golden Plover. Rather Common, Sev-
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 205 
 
 eral small flocks observed on and after August 20th. Manvers and 
 J,. .t,r- • southward to Belle Isle. 
 
 50. ^gialitis semipalmata. Semipalmated Plover. Common, breed- 
 
 ing along the whole coast. 
 
 51. Lagopus lagopus. Willow Ptarmigan. Rather common from 
 
 Hamilton Inlet north to Manvers. 
 
 52. Lagopus rupestris. Rock Ptarmigan. Common from Cape Har- 
 
 rigan northward. Beyond Okkak the rock ptarmigan probably- 
 belonged to the sub-species " reinhardti." 
 
 53. Archibuteo lagopus saneti-johannis. Rovigh-legged Hawk. Very 
 
 abundant everywhere. Breeding commonly. 
 
 54. Falco rusticolus obsoletus. Labrador Gyrfalcon. Scarce. One at 
 
 Port Manvers, September 5th. 
 
 55. Falco peregrinus anatum. Duck Hawk. Rather common at Port 
 
 Manvers and northward. 
 
 56. Asio accipitrinus. Short-cared Owl. Rather common on the coast 
 
 in September. 
 
 57. Otocoris alpestris. Horned Lark. Abundant everywhere. A very 
 
 characteristic bird. 
 
 58. Perisoreus canadensis nigricapillus. Labrador Jay. Common 
 
 locally as far as Port Manvers, where it was abundant. 
 
 59. Corvus corax principalis. Raven. Common from Hamilton Inlet 
 
 northward. South of that, scarce. 
 
 60. Pinicola enucleator. Pine Grosbeak. Common wherever we foiind 
 
 woodlands, as far north as Mokkovik. 
 
 61. Acanthis linaria. Redpoll. Everywhere common. 
 
 62. Plectrophenax nivalis. Snow Bimting. Abundant from Augtist 
 
 15th on, especially at Manvers. 
 
 63. Calcarius lapponicus. Lapland Longspur. Abimdant after August 
 
 30th. Very numerous at Port Manvers. 
 
 64. Ammodramus sandwichensis savannah. Savannah Sparrow. 
 
 Locally common. Abundant at Manvers from August 24th to 
 September 5th. 
 
 65. Zonotriehia leucophrys. White-crowned Sparrow. The most 
 
 abundant land bird everywhere. 
 
 66. Spizella monticola. Tree Sparrow. Rather uncommon, though 
 
 not rare. 
 
 67. Junco hyemalis. Junco. Not common. A few near Mokkovik 
 
 early in August. 
 
 68. Melospiza lincolni. Lincoln's Sparrow. Common in the more 
 
 southern region, as far as Hamilton Inlet. Breeds.
 
 2o6 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 69. Fasserella iliaca. Fox Sparrow. Very common as far as Mokko- 
 
 vik. Breeds abundantly. 
 
 70. Dendroica coronata. Myrtle Warbler. Locally common to 
 
 Mokkovik. 
 
 71. Dendroica striata. Black-poll Warbler. Abundant as far as Hope- 
 
 dale. A very characteristic bird. 
 
 72. Seiurus noveboraeensis. Water Thrush. Not uncommon as far 
 
 as Mokkovik. 
 
 73. Anthus pensilvanicus. Titlark. Very abundant everywhere in 
 
 the more barren regions and on the islands. 
 
 74. Regulus satrapa. Golden-crown Kinglet. Rather common in 
 
 wooded places. North to Mokkovik. 
 
 75. Parus hudsonicus. Hudsonian Chickadee. Rare. Two or three 
 
 at Manak. 
 
 76. Turdus alicise bicknelli. Bicknell's Thrush. One taken near 
 
 Battle Harbor. 
 
 77. Turdus ustulatus swainsoni. Olive-backed Thrush. Rather com- 
 
 mon wherever there were trees, as far as Mokkovik. 
 
 78. Merula migratoria. Robin. Rather uncommon. Common at 
 
 Manvers September 6th to 8th. 
 
 79. Saxicola oenanthe. Wheatear. The agent at Nachvak had nests 
 
 of this bird, which he had taken. 
 
 X. 
 
 REPORT ON GEOLOGY. 
 BY REGINALD A. DALY, PH. D. 
 
 The "Paradise of Geologists" is undoubtedly the great 
 arid belt of the United States. The interpretation of 
 the structure and history of the earth's crust is there pos- 
 sible with a degree of rapidity and an amount of assured 
 detail which are scarcely possible in any other region of the 
 globe. A chief cause for this facility of study is to be found 
 in a very general lack of forest and even of the soil-cap, 
 which so seriously interfere with the work of the observer 
 elsewhere. This same condition is supplied also in the 
 
 I
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 207 
 
 coastal belt of northeastern Labrador, and it is largely owing 
 to the relative barrenness of this region that we were able to 
 win geological results worthy of record even under such un- 
 promising circumstances as those described in the log of the 
 "Brave." To be sure, the numerous delays that were found 
 necessary during the cruise formed a very considerable ad- 
 vantage to the geologist of the party, unwelcome as they gen- 
 erally were to his friends on board. At every anchorage 
 something could be done toward sampling the problems 
 which this coast has to offer. In every case, with no forest 
 to obscure the view, attention could be quickly called to 
 novelties, whether dike, lava flow, intrusive boss, peculiar 
 schist, noteworthy structure, elevated beach or sea-cave. 
 For this reason, the questions concerning the history and 
 composition of the coastal belt grew in number and signifi- 
 cance as we made our hasty reconnaisance, although most 
 of them would be, of course, more or less distinctly in mind 
 before one set out on the trip. 
 
 Composed as it is for the most part of the crystalline 
 complex, presumably Archaean, which shows great diversity 
 of structural trends where it has been studied by Low in 
 the interior of Labrador, and by many others in its southern 
 and southwestern extensions in Canada, it was not to be ex- 
 pected that the northeastern coast-line would show the same 
 average parallelism to the strike-direction of the schists as 
 appears in the relation of the coast-line from the Carolinas 
 to the Straits of Belle Isle. I was, therefore, not a Httle 
 interested to find that, at some twenty-five different points 
 from the Straits to Nachvak Bay, there is a decided coi- 
 respondence in the attitude of the bedded rocks. Their 
 edges are directed approximately northeast-southwest, giv-
 
 2o8 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 ing a ''Labrador trend" which meets the "Appalachian 
 trend" nearly at right angles in the vicinity of Belie Isle. 
 The Archaean plateau would seem, then, to be rather defi- 
 nitely rimmed for a distance of seven hundred miles on this 
 northeast coast by the axis of the old mountain system. It 
 is probable that the average direction of the present coast- 
 line and of the adjacent continental shelf has thus been 
 roughly determined by a principal and fundamental line of 
 mountain-folding. 
 
 So ancient is this orographic system that most of its 
 height has long since been lost. Only in the belt stretching 
 one hundred and fifty miles from the Johannisberg at 
 Hebron to the cliffs of Cape Chidley is there a strong re- 
 minder in the existing relief of the Pre-Cambrian alpine 
 chain. Orographically, though not structurally, this belt is 
 a distinct unit and may be differentiated as the "Torngat" 
 Range. The need of a special name for the range is evident 
 to one who sees the great contrast between its lofty, rugged, 
 oftentimes serrate topography, and that of the lower, 
 monotonously rolling, hummocky plateau to the south. I 
 have, therefore, adopted, with a slight modification of spell- 
 ing (therein following the early missionaries, Kohlmeister 
 and Kmoch), the name which Weiz gave to a part of the 
 range. 
 
 A collection of the more typical rocks of the crystalline 
 complex was made. Not the least interesting addition to 
 this petrographical booty was the gabbro from which the 
 famous iridescent feldspar "labradorite" was first obtained 
 nearly a century ago. So far as I am aware, the beautiful 
 specimens which may be seen in all the principal museums 
 ♦ of the world have, without exception, been obtained from
 
 £. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 209 
 
 the glacial erratics which are plentifully strewn along the 
 coast in the vicinity of Nain. The opportunity of collecting 
 from the rock in place at Mr. Taber's quarry was highly 
 prized. The microscopical and chemical diagnosis of this 
 and other rocks in our summer's collection is not yet com- 
 pleted. 
 
 The Kaumajet mountain group not only affords some 
 wonderfully beautiful scenic effects, but is to the geologist 
 instructive as well. Ogua'lik, Cape Mugford, the Bishop's 
 Mitre, are all part of an extensive area of slates, sandstones, 
 conglomerates, limestones, and, much surpassing these in 
 thickness, lava flows, volcanic tufts and breccias, — a series 
 of well-bedded rocks which rest directly on the truncated 
 edges of the gneisses of the crystalline complex. This "un- 
 conformity" between the gently dipping younger formation 
 of sombre hue and the light gray gneissic basement is truly 
 spectacular. The slightly sinuous line of contact between 
 the two formations may be followed for miles on the bold 
 clifTs in and about Mugford Tickle. It represents an ancient 
 land-surface, buried now under twenty-five hundred feet of 
 marine and volcanic strata of unknown but certainly great 
 age. From this thick rock-blanket, atmospheric and glacial 
 erosion have carved the picturesque Kaumajets as we see 
 them to-day, while the same agencies have fashioned even 
 more fantastic peaks and valleys in the gneissic basement 
 at the Nanuktuks, where the rock-cover has been com- 
 pletely swept away. 
 
 During our two-weeks' stay at Nachvak Bay, I was able 
 to construct a sketch-contour map of the inlet, and by a 
 series of soundings to demonstrate that it is a true fiord and 
 one of the best types in eastern America. With a maximum
 
 210 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 depth of 100 fathoms, it is not deep as fiords go, but the in- 
 terruption of its bottom seaward slope by two rock-sills 
 within the "Narrows" and the existence of a similar shoal 
 outside show this bay to be of the same nature as the typical 
 inlets of Norway, Greenland, or Alaska. The best inter- 
 pretation of such an arrangement of bottom slopes would 
 attribute them and the broad U-shaped cross-section of the 
 fiord to glacial erosion. A corroboration of this view was 
 found in a number of "hanging valleys" which are drained 
 into the bay. It is now the fashion to regard these as in- 
 dicating a power of excavation possessed by valley glaciers 
 which was considered as highly improbable by most geol- 
 ogists only fiVe years ago. One of these side-valleys is 
 "hanging" some 1,200 feet above the bottom of its 
 trunk valley, Nachvak Bay, and at the junction of the two 
 occurs the finest cascade in the region. 
 
 At Nachvak I was able to confirm Dr. Robert Bell in 
 the proof that the glaciers of the ice epoch were only local 
 in its closing stages, and that an overwhelming general gla- 
 ciation of the Torngats, such as occurred in the White, 
 Green, and Adirondack mountains, did not take place in the 
 last glacial epoch. The ice of that period moved seaward 
 from the neve of the interior of Labrador through the trans- 
 verse valleys and passes of this range, and seldom, if ever, 
 submerged the mountains above the 2,100 contour. 
 
 The glacial striae of the coast are scarcely more 
 numerous than the "lunoid furrows" which had been dis- 
 covered there by Professor Packard. Their characteristics 
 led me to a somewhat new interpretation of these markings, 
 which, however, I shall not detail here. They agreed with 
 the strine in showing- that the ice-movements of the last
 
 E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 211 
 
 glacial epoch were radially outward from the centre of 
 discharge, viz. : the southwestern portion of the peninsula. 
 Baron De Geer has shown that with a similar dispersal of ice 
 from the centre of the Scandinavian sheet, there may be 
 correlated differential elevation of northwestern Europe in 
 post-glacial times. This uplift of the continent has been 
 greatest at the centre of radiation, and, in general, becomes 
 progressively less with increasing distance from that centre. 
 If, as seems natural, we may assume that the currents within 
 the ice-cap moved from the centre outwards because the cap 
 was thicker there than on the edges, it is legitimate to follow 
 De Geer in forming his explanatory hypothesis of the cor- 
 relation between ice-radiation and post-glacial elevation. 
 Uplift has been most pronounced where the earth's crust 
 has lost the greatest load by the melting of the ice-cap; less 
 and less pronounced along the radii leading from the region 
 of greatest thickness of ice. The earth's crust is, then, 
 elastic, and sensitive to a load relatively so insignificant as 
 a regional glacier. 
 
 De Geer saw that it would help his case if he could find 
 a second example. He discovered that North America, 
 while in the main telling the same story, could not furnish 
 so complete a homologue on account of the lack of inform- 
 ation regarding the maximum amount of post-glacial uplift 
 in Newfoundland and Labrador. I was able to determine 
 with a small margin of error the position of the highest post- 
 glacial shore-line from St. John's to Nachvak Bay, a distance 
 of 1,100 miles. The result is to supply so much of a gap 
 in the information necessary to test De Geer's theory; and, 
 in the main, the theory is strengthened by this addition to 
 the list of observations on crustal movements. Incidentally,
 
 212 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 
 
 barometric readings gave the elevations of a large number 
 of raised beaches, sea-caves, etc., all exposed on the bare 
 slopes with marvelous distinctness. 
 
 Some 300 observations of surface and subsurface tem- 
 peratures of the coastal waters were made, and in many cases 
 the densities were taken as well. These observations have 
 not, as yet, been subjected to the necessary corrections nor 
 has their significance been wholly determined. 
 
 A detailed account of my summer's results on the 
 geology and physical geography of Labrador will shortly 
 appear in a Bulletin of the Museum of Comparative Zoology, 
 Harvard University.
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
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