DESCRIBED BY f£ AND ILLUSTRATED BY Zigzag Guide Advertisements E. G, lastall & Company BREWERS WINE & WHISKY MERCHANTS THANET BREWERY Head Office: 6i QUEEN STREET RAMSQATE Proprietors : E. G. Wastall & Coy., Wine & Whisky Merchants, Ramsgate PKR GALLON, 21S. PER DOZEN CASE, 42s. Bonded Yaults: London Agency; GRAEMli STREET, GLASGOW. 58 TOOLEY STkEE'l Zigzag Guide Advertisements CLIFTONVILLE HOTEL MARGATE CLIFTONVILLE IS SINGULARLY BRACING AND INVIGORATING" ^HE CLIFTONVILLE HOTEL is most com- fortable, and occupies a magnificent situation on the Cliffs. Large number of Rooms with Sea View, All others have pleasant country outlook. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Tennis Courts in Private Grounds opposite the Hotel and facing th.e Sea. During Season a Private String Band plays at LuncJieon^ Dinner, and in Vestibule during the Evenincr Electric Light in every Room DURING THE WINTER MONTHS THE HOTEL IS COMFORTABLY WARMED THROUGHOUT Proprietors: THE GORDON HOTELS. Limited Zigzag Guide Advertisements Telegrams- RAMSGATE VINTBNS RAMSGATE VINTEN & SON Auctioneers, Surveyors, and Valuers, House and Estate Agents ESTABLISHED 1836 "jX/TESSRS. VINTEN & SON have during the last Sixty years Let, Sold, or Valued a large proportion of the Principal Estates and Residences in this neighbourhood, and are thus in a position to advise those wishing to Purchase or Rent Property in the Isle of Thanet. Their Business includes the Sale and Letting of Estates, Business Premises, Marine and Summer Residences. Reports and Valuations for Purchase or Mortgage. Periodical Sales of Freehold Property, in which Houses and Land can be included on moderate terms. Frequent Sales at own Auction Mart (the largest in Thanet), in which Furniture, Plate, etc., can be well shown and sold under favourable con- ditions. Valuations for Probate and Estate Duty made speedily at an inclusive fee. Valuations for Transfer and Arl^itrations. Free Registers of Property to be Sold or Let, in which entries are made Free of Charge. Estates managed and Rents collected. Accounts rendered Quarterly. One Address only- The Estate Offices The Auction Mart I 72 HIGH ST., RAMSGATE ZIGZAG GUIDE ON RAMSGATE SANDS OT THE TirOL f;'^ London Adam and Charles Black .897 " Simple Orcadians hcth CONTENTS PREFACE CHAPTER T PAGE Starting- Point CHAPTER II • 9 Ramsgate . 1 1 CHAPTER III On Board the Good Ship "Laverock" . 23 CHAPTER IV Hints and Suggestions . . . ■ -37 CHAPTER V Still at Ramsgate . . . • -44 2046953 vi ZIGZAG GUIDE CHAPTER VI PAGE To Pegwfxl 50 CHAPTER VII About Ramsgate Harbour . . . • 5^ CHAPTER VIII Quitting Ramsgate . . . • • "4 CHAPTER IX FORDWICH . . . • • • -75 CHAPTER X En ROUTE FOR Margate . . . .81 CHAPTER XI Sandwich ...•••• ^4 CHAPTER XII Sandwich (r«);///////fv/)—" My Oi.n Dutch " . 92 CONTENTS vii CHAPTER XIII PAGE Ash I02 CHAPTER XIV Deal • • • io8 CHAPTER XV Coasting and Inland in search of Barfreston 113 CHAPTER XVI To St. Margaret's Bay . . . .124 CHAPTER XVII Broadstairs . . . . • • -13° CHAPTER XVIII To Margate from Ramsgate by the eleven o'clock boat, and from Margate to Boulogne . . . • • • ^33 CHAPTER XIX Margate . . . . • • .140 Vlll ZIGZAG GUIDE CHAPTER XX Westgate 154 CHAPTER XXI Barfreston . 167 CHAPTER XXII The Thanet Harriers Comfortably tucked uj> Whatever may be the opinions of our most trusts worthy medicine men, I, — mo'i qui parle^ — speaking from the considerable ex- perience of well-nigh a quarter of a century's resi- dence, — though not as yet qualified with the authority of "the oldest inhabitant," ■ — am absolutely cer- tain that, for the majority of my fellow London citizens there are no better health- restorers, and no more perfect "life-preser- vers," than those pleasant " seaside re- sorts," not sufficiently resorted to, because only partially known, on the Kentish Coast, ranging 2 ZIGZAG GUIDE from Birchington or Birchingtown (which, from its name ought to be a town of Schools in associa- tion with preparatory academies at Whippingham) to Hythe. " We," my artistic confrere, and self, hence- forth to be known in Dickensian phraseology as "T'Otherest" and "T'Other Guv'nor," do not purpose travelling so far west on the coast as Hythe, or, if we should do so, it will be only to give it a " look-in," and then to take a short run inland, returning to Dover for dinner, and so back again to Ramsgate or Margate, zigzagging about, here to-day, gone to-morrow, back again the day after, and going somewhere else the day after that. As to Margate and Ramsgate, the idea as generally received by the "hupper sukkles" is that they are places of resort for " trippers " only, and therefore to be religiously avoided by those whom " Providence has blest with afflu- ence," if not with perfect health. Erreur^ 7nes amis} a mistake so great indeed, that in order to prolong your lives, in order to make your useful existence still more beneficial, and to give extra chances of turning useless lives into useful ones, we, T'Otherest and T'Other, devote ourselves to the mission of converting you to our views (you will see the artist's and you will read mine) for your present and future PREFACE benefit, appearing in this simile and connection as two modified Augustinians, whose great founder St. Augustine himself was the first visitor to this health-giving, life-preserving locality. Augmt'in was a name of good omen to Ramsgate and Margate,— as the season when most people can come here is in August. And it is, more or less, historically certain that the time of the good man's arrival on these shores was the last of the summer months, since he is invariably alluded to in the ancient records as " our august visitor." There was no hotel at the time of his landing in the low ground between Ramsgate and Pegwell, or if one did then exist, it was^ not run by a company ; it was probably but poorly patronised ; and, ^ alas ! the visitors' book has not been preserved. Let me assure everyone, crying it aloud from the Mar- tello towers along the coast, that no holiday time can be better passed than at either Ramsgate or Margate, during what is called their "season"; provided always, and be it here expressed and understood, that 4 ZIGZAG GUIDE the climate, of either one or the other, agrees with you. First. — T/^the climate be against you. If, at Margate, you are as hopelessly bilious, in the strong northern air fresh from the North Pole, as are some people at Brighton (so hopelessly bilious as to be utterly incapacitated and com- pelled to remain in bed during their visit, only to quit it in order to return to town) ; Secondly., If you feel much the same in the milder Ramsgate with its southern aspect, the north wind at your back ; then, on these hypotheses, the sheltered Broadstairs may render your life happy ; or you PREFACE may be benefited by the more secluded Sandwich, inland, with access to fine golf links, and sea at some distance; but neither Birch- ington nor Westgate will suit those between whom and breezes fi'om the North Pole there is no sympathy. Well - informed persons familiar with the geographi- cal situation of Calais and Boulogne are, generally speaking, under a strange misapprehension as to the relative positions of Margate and Ramsgate, which are not "Siamese Twins." They are not in- separable as were Castor and Pollux, Balbus and Caius, Box and Cox, William and Mary, Hero and Leander, and other historical characters usually bracketed. Nor are they by any manner of means alike, as were the Two Dromios : on the contrary, so distinctive are their character- istics, that it would be ordinarily impossible for the least keen observer when in Margate to think he was in Ramsgate, or vice versa. They are " poles asunder," though distant only 6 ZIGZAG GUIDE from each other a matter of eight miles or so by coast, and by about four or five across country. Of course there are more ways than one of going from Ramsgate to Margate, " the beaten track " being one that is very easily beaten by other tracks which are not convenient for the ordinary Thanet Fly, coach, or char-a-banc. But these secrets of the Enchanting Island — do not forget that you have the privilege of being in an island — shall be revealed, later on, during the course of these travels. Advice Gratis. — If you love the sea and "sea-scapes," and if you intend taking up your residence on this coast, do so at Ramsgate. And at Ramsgate, Westerly. Why at Ramsgate ? Because Ramsgate faces south. As I write now, from my room facing the sea on the western coast, my aspect — or rather the house's aspect — is due south. A row of houses guards the Crescent's (private) Gardens against the forces of the north wind ; we are partially protected by Beneficent Builders (who, in some respects, were duffers) from the east wind, and we are fairly amenable to the advances of the softer west. Ramsgate throughout the year is warmer than Margate, as Margate faces due north ; and, when you are at the end of Margate PREFACE 7 Pier, you can confidently state, as something you are not afraid to let the whole world know, and in order to put an end to any possible scandal, that there is nothing ivhatever between you and the North Pole. This being so, if you are on the East Kent Coast for the summer months only, and if those summer months are abnormally hot, then, by all means lodge at Margate, facing north ; or at Westgate, or at Birchington, both facing north- west : but Margate is the coolest and freshest of the three. In winter, however, all things considered, Ramsgate for choice ; and alter Ramsgate, Broadstairs. Broadstairs lies between Margate and Ramsgate, and though thus "lying," it can be trusted as a via media^ where tutissimus ibis ; wh Latin phrase was translate by a learned school -boy w knew something of natu history as the " Ibis (called) the Safest," be- cause, in prehistoric times. 8 ZIGZAG GUIDE when the bird was an uncommonly fine one with fine feathers, you were safe to meet him somewhere, and ht\ with his Daddy-long-legs-Hke legs and out-spreading wings, was easily off before the simple bow-and-arrow sportsman could pos- sibly take aim. To Broadstairs, sheltered and much frequented in summer, we shall turn our footsteps " in due course." CHAPTER I Motto for Tourist, suggested by Mrs. G/asse's celebrated receipt for hare-dressing — "First catch your train." Another and a Supplementary Motto — "The earlier traveller catches the early train." Too much luggage spoils the journey. An inquiry in time saves any amount or strong language. Rule as to picking up information beforehand and subsequently acting upon it — • " Hear to-day, gone to-morrow." "There is many a slip betu'een the platform and a compartment." When in doubt ask at the ticket-office. 10 ZIGZAG GUIDE Advice. — Do not >^ travel^ If yon can pos- J sibly avoid it^ by a crowded excursion train. Re?nem- hcr the Shakespearian stage-direc- tion., consisting of tivo zvords., almost invariably in conjunction., i.e. — " Excursions and alarms ! " "If I were you," quoth our friend Major O'Shaughnessy of the Gallant Boardinghousers, addressing himself to T'Other Guv'nor, and T'Otherest Guv'nor, "wanting to 'do' the coast and to have a little bit up vour sleeve inland, I should take up my head- quarters at Ramsgate." " And those headquarters ? " asked T'Other Guv'nor, the Literary Gent. " And those headquarters," continued the gallant Major, " would be your basis of operations." Whereat T'Otherest chuckled grimly, and T'Other did something more than smile. "For a' that and a' that," we, T'Other and T'Otherest, determined to yield lo force majeure ; which is T'Other's way of saying that we saw no better plan of campaign before us than the one proposed, and there and then we decided to act on the disinterested Major's advice. CHAPTER II AMSGATE.— To be reached direct by the London, Chatham, and Dover .UZ^.M Line, by Whitstable, Heme Bay, West- =~ ^ate, Birchington, Margate, and Broad- stair^; or by the South Eastern Railway with something of a circumbendibus by way of Canterbury, Grove Ferry, and Minster. To those who long for the earliest glimpse possible of the ocean, I should recommend the London, Chatham, and Dover journey, with view of the Medway opening to sea, of the River Swale, which helps to isolate Sheppey, a glimpse of Ancient Whitstable, where they make up any number of oyster-beds, and where there are very rarely any "to let" even in the worst season ; a " look-in " at quiet Heme Bay ; a passing glance at the mysterious Reculvers in the distance ; a bow to Birchington Bungalows ; a visit to Westgate (three minutes rParret) ; three more or so at Margate ; a pause at Broad- stairs ("all tickets ready "), during which 12 ZIGZAG GUIDE you will have time to remark the Seaside Sana- torium, the many artistically-finished red-brick houses (or the tops of them) "standing in their own (small) park-like grounds," and, in a general way, the ups and downs of Broadstairs out-of- door life, with a monumental sea-mark in the distance which, though not on semaphoring terms with the one near Birchington, is some- how or other, I believe, a connection both of the North Foreland and of the neighbouring North Foreland Lighthouse. Inland you will have noticed short cross- country cuts which delight the bold equestrian (if there are no stiles in the way, whereof there are very few in Thanet), and considerably reduce the length of the pedestrian's journey from north to south, since by these paths he can go "as the crow flies." All this the observant traveller, seated close to the near -side window, will have noticed what time the tickets are being collected bv the Broad- stairian official ; and then at the sound of the whistle the train will move on with increasing speed, until, towards the end of a gruesome tunnel, it pulls up with a jerk. It does not do to come rushing and screaming into Royal Ramsgate, nor to enter into the town all panting, puffing, and blowing. So the engine assumes such quiet dignity as beseems a locomotive arriving close to the spot RAMSGATE 13 whence, once upon a time, the Majesty of England, hight George the Fourth, took his departure from his own dominions to seek those of the Gay Gaul, and whither he returned none the worse, let us hope, for his trip by sea. Is there not an obelisk on the pier recording this memorable feat ? Thus runs the inscription — " To George the Fourth^ King of Great Britain and Ireland^'' — " Ireland " always seems added as an afterthought, — " the Inhabitants and Visitors of Ratnsgate'''' — the inhabitants could not manage it among themselves, so the unfortunate visitors "(j/" Ramsgate" were taxed: [the visitors to Ramsgate would have been more correct ; you pay a visit to not "of" Ramsgate; but this may be hypercritical] '■^ and the Directors and Trustees of the Harbour'''' — The "Trustees" modestly put themselves last, but depend upon it it was they who got up the subscription and erected the obelisk ; in fact they were at the bottom of this obelisk ; — '•'■have erected this Obelisk as a grateful record " — of what ? — pause to guess — and resume — " of His Majesty s Gracious Conde- scension in selecting this Port " — had they been all wine-merchants they couldn't have been more grateful — ''''for his embarcation^'' — we heard an old lady read it out aloud as "embrocation," and certainly these directors and trustees did " rub it in" — "«?« the l^th September^ in Progress to 14 ZIGZAG GUIDE His Kingdo?n of Hanover^'' — (there were no ad- herents of "the King over the water" among the subscribers to this monument) — ^^ and his happy return on the 8. Novbr. 1821 " : so Han- over did not long detain its Monarch, who, at the time of his starting from Ramsgate, had reigned but a year and a half, and probably required a little change of air. Perhaps it was to settle some of his late Queen Caroline's affairs in Brunswick, to which place the poor lady's remains had been conveyed for interment in the previous month, that he took this journey. However, be this as it may, " The first gentleman in Europe" made the trip (and many other trips of a different character) aforesaid, and of it this Obelisk is the memorial. No one can object to this Obelisk as being " pointless." Just look at the top ! So much you may observe on entering " Royal Ramsgate," while waiting for your luggage to be put on the trap (there are plenty of convey- ances, and one of the local papers will give you the tariff, which is not exorbitant), and "stretching your legs " after the two hours' journey per London, Chatham, and Dover line from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, or Ludgate Hill. N.B. — There is a capital train every evening from Holborn^ Ludgate^ and St. PauPs^ starting from the last-nafned station at 5.12, and arriving at Ratnsgate 7,5. 77; zV, like " the JVaverley Pen^'' RAMSGATE 15 is a " boon and a blessing to Wd'«." Consult time- tables and see that you get this train^ unless you travel by the Granville Express^ luhich is earlier. We, T'Other and T'Otherest Guv'nor, will not prejudice our clients in favour of any one part of Ramsgate over another. There is room for all, and there are rooms for all, — " pick 'em where you like," as the vendor of nuts in a barrow says, — and the price of apartments, lodgings, and of houses to let, varies here, as everywhere else, according to situation. For those who wish to be directly on the sands, there are a few small houses built in the East Cliff on " the Marina." Apartments over shops. Others who like the benefit of the upper air, with a comparatively short walk down to the sands, will locate themselves somewhere up above on the East Cliff, or will stay at the Granville Hotel, which is admirably situated, and where all the luxuries of the season, includ- ing various kinds of baths, are to be obtained, and where the cuisine is fairly satisfactory, though the arrangement of its ?nenus might be improved, were it assimilated to those of any good Con- tinental hotel. The ?nenus of most English hotels are stodgy and uninviting. ' Running Uill ; and loill probably be joined, en route, by another train from f^ietoria. i6 ZIGZAG GUIDE A slight acquaintance with Sir Henry Thomp- son's excellent book on Food and Feeding (which proves its author to be a past-master in dinner- giving) would be of the greatest service to any Maitre d'Hotel, and the practical carrying out of the celebrated surgeon's directions would result in such a combination of variety with economy, as to prove a great attraction to many who are dis- couraged from dining at hotels by the inartistic and ordinary ?nenus. The days of" the Ordinary " are long since past, except for some ancient " bagmen " or " travellers " who patronise old- fashioned " commercial houses." What to do at Rafusgate. — April and May are two delightful months here. At this season there are only drives, rides, walks, boat- ing, and fishing. But in June, July, August, and Septem- ber thereare plenty of steamers with early trips and late trips ; and there are extra trains and cheaper tickets. There are no public lawn- tennis grounds; and (!L^RL■j' ^10l^^'(^fC^ T(T,PPei?,\ ["jOr'fC, TfL'^cL'J-C-i^ wpi'ei?,^ t''jOT'fc^ > ' ^ 1^, r ZIGZAG GUIDE ^