j. L. MCDONALD SCENES or "WONDER AND CURIOSITY CALIFOKNIA. ILLUSTRATED WITH $$&& flUNBKlit) ENGRAVINGS. A TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY, THE Bio TREE GROVES THE NATURAL CAVES AND BRIDGES THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN AND HENRIQUITA MOUNT SHASTA THE FARALLONE ISLANDS, WITH THEIR SEA LIONS AND BIRDS THE GEYSER SPRINGS LAKE TAHOE, AND OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST. GIVING OUTLINE MAP OF EOUTES TO YO-SEMITE AND BIG TREE GROVES TABLES OF DISTANCES KATES OF FARE HOTEL CHARGES, AND OTHER DESIRABLE INFORMATION FOR THE TRAVELLER. BY J. M. HUTCHINGS, // (OF YO-SEMITE.) NEW YORK AND SAN FRANCISCO: A. ROMAN AND COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. 1870. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year One Thousand Eight Hundred and Seventy, by J. M. HUTCHINGS, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. u ., PREFATORY NOTE FROM PUBLISHER, SINCE the completion and appointments of the great Overland Railway have made travelling to the Pacific Slope easy, pleasant, speedy, and safe, a general desire has arisen for information concerning its remarkable scenery, the cost of travelling, distances, hotel charges, etc. The cordial reception this volume has received in Cali- fornia, where hitherto it has only been known, and the often expressed wish for its more general circulation, has led to the belief that a revised edition, giving the desired information, would supply a present need, and prove acceptable to the public. The author's twenty years' experience in California has made him familiar with its history and progress; a long time devoted to studying and sketching its most interest- ing features, and an actual residence of six years in the wonderful Yo-Semite, together with his loving appreciation of the beautiful, have very naturally fitted him to write instructively and feelingly upon the subject. Through his efforts, moreover, the attention of the public was first called to its sublime scenes, and for years he has, in many ways, been earnestly engaged in extending a knowledge of its glories. New York, May 2, 1870. 980493 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGH How the Calaveras Big Tree Grove was first discovered Principal Routes to the Calaveras Grove Alcatraces Island Angel Island Red Rock Straits of Carquinez City of Benicia Monte Diablo Sailing up the San Joaquin City of Stockton Stockton to Murphy's Camp Road to the Mammoth-Tree Grove The Mammoth-Tree Grove The Great South Grove 9 CHAPTER II. Discovery and Location of the Caves of Calaveras The Entrance The Council Chamber The Cathedral The Bishop's Palace The Bridal Chamber Musical Hall The Hotel 51 CHAPTER III. Scenery around the Natural Bridges The Upper Bridge The Lower Bridge.. . . 56 CHAPTER IV. THE TO-SEMITB YALLEY, and Circumstances that led to its Discovery The Mariposa Indian War Things to Know before Starting on the Tour Outline Map and Table of Distances by the different Routes Travelling Fares and Time by the different Routes Kinds and Amounts of Personal Baggage desirable : Hotel Charges in San Francisco, Yo-Semite, and while Travelling See the Route Agent The Country between Stockton and Yo-Semite The Tuolumne South Grove of Big Trees and Road through it Hints How to secure Enjoyment on the Trip Descending the Mountain Ride up the Yalley Outline Map of the Yalley The First Night in the Yalley What to do and see on the First Day Walk to the Foot of the Lower Yo-Semite Fall The Second Day: Mirror Lake, the Legend of Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah and Tis-sa-ack, the Bridal Yeil Fall Third Day : Yisit to the Yernal and Nevada Falls, Ascent of the " Cap of Liberty," the Country above the Nevada Fall, the Little Yo-Semite Yalley Fourth Day: Yisit to the Tu-lool-we-ack or South Canon Fall, the South Dome from the South Canon Fifth Day : Ride to Mount Beatitude and Inspiration Point Yiew from thence Sixth Day : Trip to the Top of the Yo-Semite Fall, what seen when there Seventh Day : To the Foot of the Upper Yo-Semite, the Glorious Yiew Eighth Day: Climb to the Top of Glacial Point and Sentinel Dome, Promi- nent Peaks visible What Chas. Loring Brace says about Yo-Semite, also an English Gentleman Comparison between Yo-Semite and different Scenes in Switzerland Attempt to Climb the South Dome Summary of Yo-Semite, and How the Name is Pronounced Table of Altitudes at Yo-Semite, including all the Principal Falls and Mountain Points Departure from it. . . 61 CONTENTS. 5 CHAPTER V. PAGE The Discovery of the Mariposa and Frezno Groves of Mammoth Trees The Mariposa Grove The South Grove Visit to the Frezno Grove The Ten Different Groves of Big Trees in California ]72 CHAPTER VI. Route to New Almaden San Jose An Old Saw The Discovery and Ownership of the New Almaden Mine Process of Extracting Quicksilver The Road to the Mine Process of Working the Mine The Henriquita Quicksilver Mine Dedicatory Ceremony of Blessing the Mine 184 CHAPTER VII. Mount Shasta Ascent of Mount Shasta, Alone 203 CHAPTER VIII. Sail through the Golden Gate Crossing the Bar Don't-care-ishness Visits from the Birds Arrival at the Islands The Sea Lions The Hair Seal Birds and their Eggs Wildness of the Scenes The North Farallones 210 CHAPTER IX. In and around San Francisco Ride to the Cliff House The Sea Lions The Beach The Broad Pacific The Old Mission Dolores Woodward's Gar- dens Views from the Bay of San Francisco The Presidio Sights from Telegraph Hill Excursion to Tamed Pais 230 CHAPTER X. The California Geysers Scenes on the Way Foss, the Driver The Hotel Gey- ser Canon, its Unearthly Appearance, Proximity to a Warm Place, its Nu- merous Kinds of Springs Strange Sounds Distances, and Cost 245 CHAPTER XL The Riffle-Box Waterfall 262 CHAPTER XII. Lake Tahoe 264 CHAPTER XIII. Alabaster Cave Discovery of the Cave Scenery on the Sacramento River Sal- mon Fishing The Hog's Back Steamboat Slough A Ride on the Sacra- mento Valley Railroad Folsom The Stage Ride to the Cave The Beau- tiful Formations The Wonderful "Dungeon of Enchantment, " and " Crystal Chapel" 268 Errata. . . 292 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. No. PAGE 1. Section of the Mammoth Tree at the Calaveras Grove 9 2. River Steamboats leaving the Broadway Wharf, San Francisco 15 3. Alcatraces Island 16 4. Red Rock; 20 5. The Two Sisters ; 21 6. Straits of Carquinez 21 7. City of Benicia 23 8. Monte Diablo 26 9. Night Scene on the San Joaquin River 31 10. The City of Stockton 33 11. A Prairie Schooner 35 12. Hotel at Calaveras Grove of Big Trees 41 13. Cotillion Party on the Stump of the Mammoth Tree 42 14. "Workmen Felling the Mammoth Tree 43 15. Bowling Alley on the Trunk of Mammoth Tree 44 16. The Father of the Forest 46 1 7. Cone and Foliage of the Mammoth Trees 47 18. The Three Graces 49 19. Entrance to the Calaveras Cave 52 20. The Bridal Chamber in the Calaveras Cave 54 2 1. Hotel at the Calaveras Cave. 55 22* Upper Side of Upper Natural Bridge on Cayote Creek 56 23. Lower Side of Upper Natural Bridge 58 24. Upper Side of Lower Natural Bridge 09 25. Distant Yiew of the Yo-Semite Waterfall. 61 26. Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah 71 27. Outline Map of Routes to Yo-Semite and Big Trees 80 28. Ho 1 for Yo-Semite 103 29. Descending the Mountain to Yo-Semite 104 30. River Scene at the Foot of the Trail 106 LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. 7 No. PAGE 31. Pom-pom-pa-sus ; or, The Three Brothers ' 108 32. Distant View of Pohono ; or, The Bridal Veil Fall 109 33. The Ferry 110 34. Outline Map of Yo-Semite Valley and Surroundings Ill 35. Ford of Yo-Semite Creek 114 36. Near View of the Yo-Semite Fall 115 37. Lake Ah-wi-yah, or Mirror Lake 119 38. The Sentinel 124 39. Near View of the Pohono. or Bridal Veil Fall 127 40. River Scene near Old Bridge 129 41. The Pi-wy-ack, or Vernal Fall 131 42. The Ladders 132 43. Merced River rushing through the G-orge at Diamond Flume 133 44. The Yo-wi-ye, or Nevada Fall '. 134 45. The South Dome as seen from the South Canon 139 46. The Tu-lool-we-ack, or -South Canon Fall 140 47. General View of the Yo-Semite Valley 144 48. Indian Canon .' 146 49. The North and South Domes from the Valley 152 50. Taking the Indian Trail up the Mountain 164 51. Ascending the Lower Dome. . 167 52. Looking down the Valley toward Cathedral Rocks 170 53. Scene in the Frezno Grove of Mammoth Trees 172 54. The Twins in the Mariposa Grove of Mammoth Trees 175 55. Satan's Spear 176 56. The Grizzled Giant 181 57. Metal Yard and Entrance to the New Almaden Mine 184 58. San Jose, Santa Clara County 186 59. General View of the Quicksilver "Works at New Almaden 188 60. Section of Quicksilver Smelting Furnace 189 61. Mexicans weighing Quicksilver 190 62. The Shrine of Senora de Guadalupe 192 63. Miners taking out Quicksilver Ore 194 64. Tenateros carrying the Ore from the Mine. 1 95 65. The Henriquita Quicksilver Mine on the Morning of Dedication 201 66. Mount Shasta 203 67. The South Farallone Islands, from Big Rookery ,. 210 8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. No. PAGE 68. Clipper Ship crossing the Bar at the Entrance of the Bay of San Francisco. . 212 69. Enchanted with the delightful Prospect off the Bar 214 70. South-east View of the Farallone Islands 215 71. Man in a Tight Place 217 72. Sea Lions and their Toung. 218 73. The Hair Seal of the Pacific 219 74. The Murre, or Foolish Guillemot .' 222 75. Murre's Egg, natural size 223 76. The Tufted Puffin 224 77. Yiew from West End of Farallone Islands 225 78. View from the North Landing of Farallone Islands 227 79. South View of Fort Point and the Golden Gate 230 80. The Drive along the Beach 234 81. The Ocean House 235 82. The Old Mission Church and Out-buildings '. 236 83. General View of the Mission Dolores 238 84. San Francisco Industrial School 240 85. The Presidio 242 86. The Witches' Cauldron at the Geyser Springs 245 87. The Steamboat " Rambler " navigating Petaluma Creek 248 88. Ray's Ranch, and the Russian River Valley 251 89. The Geyser Springs Hotel 255 90. Geyser Canon 256 91. Proserpine's Grotto ... 257 92. View of Clear Lake, from the Bridge near the Geysers 260 93. The Riffle-Box Waterfall. 262 94. Lake Tahoe 264 95. The Pulpit in Alabaster Cave. 268 96. Lower Junction of the Main Sacramento and Steamboat Slough 273 97. Night Scene on the Sacramento River 274 98. Salmon Fishing Paying out the Seine 275 99. Salmon Fishing Hauling in the Seine 276 100. Group of Salmon on the Banks of the Sacramento 277 101. Upper Junction of the main Sacramento and Steamboat Slough 280 102. Levee Scene at Sacramento City 282 103. The Alabaster Lime-Kiln by Moonlight 286 104. The Crystal Chapel in the Alabaster Cave , . . 291 SCENES OF WONDER AND CURIOSITY CALIFORNIA. THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. SECTION OF MAMMOTH TREE. From PhotograpJi by T. Houseworth & Co. 10 SCENES LN CALIFORNIA. ;;;: CHAPTEK i. ^ . ^ " God of the forest's solemn shade ! i b \ The grandeur of the lonely tree, That wrestles singly with the gale, Lifts up admiring eyes to Thee , - l\ But more majestic far they stand, t i' When, side by side their ranks they form * * * To wave on high their plumes of green, And fight their battles with the storm." PEABODY. IT is much to be questioned if the discovery of any wonder, in any part of the world, has ever elicited as much general interest, or created so strong a tax upon the credulity of mankind, as the discovery of the mammoth trees of California. Indeed, those who first mentioned the fact of their existence, whether by word of mouth or by letter, were looked upon as near, very near, relatives of Baron Munchausen, Captain -Gulliver, or the celebrated Don Quixote. The statement had many times to be repeated, and well corroborated, before it could be received as true ; and there are many persons who, to this very day, look upon it as as a some- what doubtful " California story ;" such, we never expect to con- vince of the realities we are about to illustrate and describe, al- though we do so from our own personal knowledge and observa- tion. HOW THE CALAVERAS GROVE WAS FIRST DISCOVERED. In the spring of 1852, Mr. A. T. Dowd, a hunter, was employed by the Union Water Company, of Murphy's Camp, Calaveras county, to supply the workmen engaged in the construction of their canal, with fresh meat, from the large quantities of game running wild on the upper portion of their works. Having wounded a bear, and while industriously following in pursuit, lie THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 11 suddenly came upon one of those immense trees, that have since become so justly celebrated throughout the civilized world. All thoughts of hunting were absorbed and lost in the wonder and' surprise inspired by the scene. " Surely," he mused," this must be some curiously delusive dream !" but the great realities stand- ing there before him, were convincing proof, beyond a doubt, that they were no mere fanciful creations of his imagination. When he returned to camp, and there related the wonders he had seen, his companions laughed at him and doubted his vera- city, which previously they had considered to be very reliable. He affirmed his statement to be true, but they still thought it " too much of a story" to believe thinking that he was trying to perpetrate upon them some first of April joke. For a day or two he allowed the matter to rest submitting, with chuckling satisfaction, to the occasional jocular allusions to " his big tree yarn," and continued his hunting as formerly. On the Sunday morning following, he went out early as usual, and returned in haste, evidently excited by some event. " Boys," he exclaimed, " I have killed the largest grizzly bear that I ever saw in my life. While I am getting a little something to eat, you make preparations to bring him in. All had better go that can possibly be spared, as their assistance will certainly be needed." As the big tree story was now almost forgotten, or by common consent laid aside as a subject of conversation ; and, moreover, as Sunday was a leisure day and one that generally hangs the heaviest of the seven on those who are shut out from social in- tercourse with friends, as many, many Californians unfortunately are the tidings were gladly welcomed ; especially as the propo- sition was suggestive of a day's excitement. Nothing loath, they were soon ready for the start. The camp was almost deserted. On, on they hurried, with Dowd as their guide, through thickets and pine groves ; crossing ridges and canons, flats and ravines; each relating in turn the adventures experienced, or heard of from companions, with grizzly bears and other formidable tenants of the forests and wilds of the moun- 12 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. tains ; until their leader came to a dead halt at the foot of the tree he had seen, and to them had related the size. Pointing to the immense trunk and lofty top, he cried out, " Boys, do you now believe my big tree story ? That is the large grizzly I wanted you to see. Do you still think it a yarn?" Thus convinced, their doubts were changed to amazement, and their conversation from bears to trees ; afterward confessing that, although they had been caught by a ruse of their leader, they were abundantly rewarded by the gratifying sight they had witnessed ; and as other trees were found equally as large, they became willing witnesses, not only to the entire truthfulness of Mr. Dowd's account, but also to the fact, that, like the confession of a certain Persian queen concerning the wisdom of Solomon, " the half had not been told." Mr. Lewis, one of the party above alluded to, after seeing these gigantic forest patriarchs, conceived the idea of removing the bark from one of the trees, and of taking it to the Atlantic states for exhibition, and invited Dowd to join him in the enterprise. This was declined ; but, while Mr. Lewis was engaged in obtain- ing a suitable partner, some one from Murphy's Camp to whom he had confided his intentions and made known his plans, took up a posse of men early the next morning to the spot described by Mr. Lewis, and, after locating a quarter section of land, imme- diately commenced the removal of the bark, after attempting to dissuade Lewis from the undertaking.* This underhanded pro- ceeding induced Lewis to visit the large tree at Santa Cruz, dis- covered by Fremont, for the purpose of competing, if possible, with his quondam friend / but finding that tree, although large, only nineteen feet in diameter and 286 feet in height, while that in Calaveras county was thirty feet in diameter and 302 feet in height, he then turned his steps to some trees reputed to be the greatest in magnitude in the state, growing near Trinidad, KLamath * In the winter of 1854, we met Mr. Lewis in Yreka, and from his own lips received this account; and we think it no more than simple justice to him here to make a record of the fact, that such an unfair and ungentlemanly violation of confidence may be both known and censured, as it well deserves to be. THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 13 county ; but the largest of these he found only to measure about twenty-four feet in diameter, and two hundred and seventy-nine feet in height ; consequently, much discouraged, and after spend- ing about five hundred dollars and several weeks' time, he even- tually abandoned his undertaking. But a short season was allowed to elapse after the discovery of this remarkable grove, before the trumpet-tongued press pro- claimed the wonder to all sections of the state, and to all parts of the world ; and the lovers of the marvellous began first to doubt, then to believe, and afterward to flock from the various districts of California, that they might see, with their own eyes, the objects of which they had heard so much. 'No pilgrims to Mohammed's tomb at Mecca, or to the reputed vestment of our Saviour at Treves, or to the Juggernaut of Hin- dostan, ever manifested more interest in the superstitious objects of their veneration, than the intelligent and devout worshippers of the wonderful in nature and science, of our own country, in their visit to the Mammoth-Tree Grove of Calaveras county, high up in the Sierras. Murphy's Camp, then known as an obscure though excellent mining district, was lifted into notoriety by its proximity to, and as the starting-point for, the Big-Tree Grove, and consequently was the centre of considerable attraction to visitors. PRINCIPAL ROUTES TO THE CALAVERAS GROVE. As very many persons will doubtless wish to visit these re- markable places, and as we cannot in this brief work describe all the various routes to these great natural marvels, from every vil- lage, town, and city in the state for they are almost as numerous and diversified as the different roads that Christians seem to take to their expected heaven, and the multitudinous creeds about the way and manner of getting there we shall content ourselves by giving the principal ones ; and, after having recited the follow- ing quaint and unanswerable argument of a celebrated divine to the querulous and uncharitably disposed members of his flock, we shall, with the reader's kind permission, proceed on our journey. 14 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. " There was a Christian brother a Presbyterian who walkecj up to the gate of the New Jerusalem, and knocked for admittance, when an angel who was in charge, looked down from above and inquired what he wanted. ( To come in,' was the answer. ' Who and what are you ?' i A. Presbyterian.' ' Sit on that seat there/ This was on the outside of the gate ; and the good man feared that he had been refused admittance. Presently arrived an Episcopalian, then a Baptist, then a Methodist, and so on, until a representative of every Christian sect had made his appearance ; and were, alike ordered to take a seat outside. Before they had long been there," continued the good man, " a loud anthem broke forth, rolling and swelling upon the air, from the choir within ; when those outside immediately joined in the chorus. ' Oh !' said the angel, as he opened wide the gate, ' I did not know you by your names, but you have all learned one song come in! come in ! The name you bear, or the way by which you came, is of little consequence compared with your being here at all.' As you, my brethren," the good man went on " as you expect to live peaceably and lovingly together in heaven, you had better begin to practice it on earth. I have done." As this allegorical advice needs no words of application either to the traveller or the Christian, in the hope that the latter will take the admonition of Captain Cuttle, " and make a note on't," and an apology to the reader for this digression, we will enter at once upon our pleasing task. Those who start from San Francisco, for the Yo-Semite Valley or the Mammoth-Tree Groves, should first proceed to Stockton. This can be done by two routes : one via the Western Pacific railroad, and the other by steamboat. If the former, the distance is ninety miles, time four hours, ten minutes, and the starting point is the Alameda Ferry, at eight o'clock, A.M., and four o'clock, P.M. If the latter, you repair to the Broadway wharf a little before four o'clock, P.M., and the boat will arrive in Stockton in time next morning for the six o'clock stage. This having been the route most generally traveled, we shall confine our attention mainly to it. There probably is not a more exciting and bustling scene of THE MAMMOTH TUBES OF CALAVEKAS. 15 STEAMBOATS LEAVING THE WHARF THE ANTELOPE FOR SACRAMENTO, AND THE BRAGDON FOR STOCKTON. business activity in any part of the world, than can be witnessed on almost any day, Sunday excepted, at Broadway street wharf, San Francisco, at a few minutes before four o'clock P.M. Men and women are hurrying to and fro; drays, carriages, express- wagons, and horsemen, dash past you with as much rapidity and earnestness as though they were the bearers of a reprieve to some condemned criminal, whose last moment of life had nearly ex- pired, and, by its speedy delivery, thought they could save him from the scaffold. Indeed, one would suppose, by the apparent recklessness of manner in riding and driving through the crowd, that numerous limbs would be broken, and carriages made into pieces as small as mince-meat ; but yet, to your surprise, nothing of the kind occurs, for, on arriving at the smallest real obstacle to 16 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. their progress, animals are suddenly reined in, with a promptness that astonishes you. On these occasions, too, there is almost sure to be one or more intentional passengers that arrive just too late to get aboard, and who, in their excitement, often throw an overcoat or valise on the boat, or overboard, but neglect to embrace the only opportune moment to get on board themselves, and are consequently left behind, as these boats are always punctual to their time of starting. With the reader's consent, as he may be a stranger to the vari- ous scenes of our beautiful California, we will bear him company, and explain some of the objects we may see. As it is always cool in San Francisco on a summer afternoon, we would invite him to please put on his overcoat or cloak, and let us take a cosy seat together 011 deck ; and, while the black volumes of smoke are rolling from the tops of the funnels, and our boat is shooting past this wharf, and that vessel now lying at anchor in the bay, or, while numerous nervous people are troubled about their baggage, asking the porter all sorts of questions, let us have a quiet chat upon the sights we may witness on our trip. The first object of interest that we find after leaving the wharves of the city behind, is ALCATRACES, OR PELICAN ISLAND. ALCATRACES ISLAND. This, we see, is just opposite the Golden Gate, atad about half way between San Francisco and Angel Island. It commands the THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 17 entrance to the great bay of San Francisco, and is but three and a half miles from Fort Point. This island is one hundred and forty feet in height above low tide, four hundred and fifty feet in width, and sixteen hundred and fifty feet in length ; somewhat irregular in shape, and forti- fied on all sides. The large building on its summit, about the centre or crest of the island, is a defensive barracks or citadel, three stories high, and in time of peace will accommodate about two hundred men, and, in time of war, at least three times that number. It is not only a shelter for the soldiers, and will with- stand a respectable cannonade, but from its top a murderous fire could be poured upon its assailants at all parts of the island, and from whence every point of it is visible. There is a belt of forti- fications encircling the island, consisting of a series of Barbette batteries, mounting, altogether, about ninety-four guns twenty- four, forty-two, sixty-eight, and one hundred and thirty-two pounders. The first building that you notice, after landing at the wharf, is a massive brick and stone guard-house, shot and shell proof, well protected by a heavy gate and drawbridge, and having three em- brasures for twenty-four pound howitzers, that command the approach from the wharf. The top of this, like the barracks, is flat, for the use and protection of riflemen. Other guard-houses, of similar construction, are built at different points, between which there are long lines of parapets sufficiently high to preclude the possibility of an escalade ; and back of which are circular plat- forms for mounting guns of the heaviest calibre, some of which weigh from nine to ten .thousand pounds. In addition to these, there are three bomb-proof magazines, each of which will hold ten thousand pounds of powder. On the south-eastern side of the island is a large furnace for the purpose of heating cannon balls, and other similar contrivances are in course of construction. Unfortunately, there is no natural supply of water on the island, so that all of that element which is used there is taken from Saucelito. In the basement of the barracks is a cistern, capa- ble of holding fifty thousand gallons of water, a portion of 2 18 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. which can be supplied from the roof of that building in the rainy season. Appropriations have been made for the fortification of this island, to the amount of eight hundred and ninety-six thousand dollars; and about one hundred thousand dollars more will com- plete them. From forty to two hundred men have been employed upon these works since their commencement in 1853. At the south-eastern end of the island is a fog-bell, of about the same weight as that at Fort Point, which is regulated to strike by machinery once in about every fifteen seconds. The whole of the works on this .island are under the skilful superintendence of Lieutenant McPherson, who very kindly ex- plained to us the strength and purposes of the different fortifica- tions made. The lighthouse, at the south of the barracks, contains a Fresnel lantern of the third order, and which can be seen, on a clear night, some twelve miles outside the heads, and is of great service in suggesting the course of a vessel when entering the bay. Yet, as we are sailing on at considerable speed across the entrance to the bay, toward Angel Island, we must not linger here, even in imagination ; especially as we can now look out through the far-famed Golden Gate; the golden-hinged hope of many, who, with lingering eyes, have longed to look upon it, and to enter through its charmed portals to this land of gold. How many, too, have longed and hoped, for years, to pass it once again, on their way out to the endeared and loving hearts that wait to welcome them, at that dear spot they still call "Homef God bless them ! Now the vessel is in full sail, and steamships that are entering the heads, as well as those within that are tacking, now on this stretch, and now on that, to make way out against the strong north-west breeze that blows in at the Golden Gate for five-eighths of the year, are fast being lost to sight, and we are just abreast of ANGEL ISLAND. This island, but five miles from the city of San Francisco, was THE "MAMMOTH TKEES OF CALAVERAS. 19 granted by Governor Alvarado to Antonio M. Asio, by order of the government of Mexico, in 1837 ; and by him sold to its present owners in 1853. As it contains some eight hundred acres of ex- cellent land, it is by far the largest and most valuable of any in the bay of San Francisco, and the green wild oats that grow to its very summit, in early spring, give excellent pasturage to stock of all kinds; while the natural springs, at different points, afford abundance of water at all seasons. At the present time there are about five hundred sheep roaming over its fertile hills. A large portion of the land is susceptible of cultivation, for grain and vegetables. From the inexhaustible quarries of hard, blue, and brown sandstone that here abound, have been taken nearly all of the stone used in the foundations of the numerous buildings in San Francisco. The extensive fortifications at Alcatraces Island, Fort Point, and other places, have been faced with it ; and the exten- sive government works at Mare Island have been principally built with stone from these quarries ; yet many thousands of tons will be required from the same source, before the fortifications and other government works are completed. Clay is also found in abundance, and of an excellent quality for making bricks. In 1856 Angel Island was surveyed by United States Engineers, for the purpose of locating sites for two twenty-four gun batteries, which are in the line of fortifications required, before our magnifi- cent harbor may be considered as fortified. The most important of these batteries will be on the north-west point of the island, and will command Racqpon Straits ; and, until this is built, our navy yard at Mare Island, and even the city of San Francisco itself, cannot be considered safe, inasmuch as, through these straits, ships of war could easily enter; if, by means of the heavy fog that so frequently hangs over the entrance to the bay, or other cause, they once passed Fort Point in safety. But here we are just opposite BED KOCK. This singular looking island was formerly called Treasure, or Golden Rock, in old charts, from a traditionary report being cir- 20 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. VIEW OP RED (OR TREASURE) ROCK. dilated of some large treasure having been once carried there, by early Spanish navigators. In charts of recent date, however, it is sometimes called Molate Island, but is now more generally known as Red Rock, from its general color. There are several strata of rock, of different colors if rock it can be called one of which is very fine, and resembles an article sometimes found upon a lady's toilet-table of course in earlier days known as rouge-powder. Besides this there are several strata of a species of clay or colored pigment, of from four to twelve inches in thickness, and of various colors. Upon the beach numerous small red pebbles, very much resembling cornelian, are found. There can be but little wonder it should be called " Red Rock," by plain, matter-of-fact people like ourselves. It is cov- ered with wild oats to its summit, on which is planted a flag-staff and cannon. Several years ago its locater and owner, Mr. Selim E. Woodworth, took about half a dozen tame rabbits over to it, from San Francisco, and now there are several hundred. As Mr. Woodworth, before becoming a benedict, made this his place of residence, he partially graded its apparently inaccessible sides ; and at different points planted several ornamental trees. A small bachelor's cabin stands near the water's edge, and as this affords the means of cooking fish and sundry other dishes, its owner, and a small party of friends, pay it an occasional visit for fishing and general recreation. Several sheep roam about on the island ; and, as they seldom drink water, they do not feel the loss of that which nature has here failed to supply. But on, on, we sail, and pass Maria Island and the Two Sisters. THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. VIEW OP THE TWO SISTERS. After leaving these behind, and shooting by Point San Pablo, we enter the large bay of that name ; and are charmed with the fine table and grazing lands on our right, at the foot of the Contra Costa range of hills. STRAITS OF CARQUETEZ. VIEW OF THE STKA1TS OP CABQUDfEZ. Just before entering the Straits of Carqninez, that connects the bays of San Pablo and Suisnn, on onr left, we obtain a glimpse -he government works at Mare Island and the town of Yalkjo; 22 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. but as we shall probably have something to say about these points at some future time, we will now take a look at the straits. As the stranger approaches these for the first time, he makes up his mind that the vessel on which he stands is out of her course, and is certainly running toward a bluff, and will soon be in trouble if she does not change her course, but as he advances and the entrance to this narrow channel becomes visible, he concludes that a few moments ago he entertained a very foolish idea. Now, however, the bell of the steamboat and a porter both announce that we are coming near Benicia, and that those who intend disembarking here, had better have their baggage and their ticket in readiness. BENICIA. One would suppose as the boat nears the wharf that she is going to run " right into it," but soon she moves gracefully round and is made fast ; but while those ashore, and those aboard, are eagerly scanning each other, to see if there is any familiar face to which to give the nod of recognition, or the cordial waving of the hand in friendly greeting, we will take our seats, and say a word or two about this city. Benecia was founded, in the fall of 1847, by the late Thomas O. Larkin and Roland Semple (who was also the originator and editor of the first California newspaper published at Monterey, August 15th, 1846, entitled The California^, upon land donated them for the purpose by General M. G. Yallejo, and named in honor of the general's estimable lady. In 1848, a number of families took up their residence here. During the fall of that year a public school was established, which has been continued uninterruptedly to the present. In the ensuing spring a Presbyterian church was organized, and has continued under its original pastor to the present time. The peculiarly favorable position of Benicia recommended it, at an early day, as a suitable place for the general military head- quarters of the United States, upon the Pacific. Being alike convenient of access both to the sea-board and interior, and far enough from the coast to be secure against sudden assault in time THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 23 of war, it was seen that no more favorable position could be selected, as adapted to all contingencies. These views met the ap- proval of the general government ; and accordingly extensive store- houses were built, military posts established, and arrangements made for erecting here the principal arsenal on the Pacific coast. There already are erected barracks for the soldiers, and officers' quarters ; two magazines, capable of hold- ing from six thousand to seven thousand barrels of gunpowder of one hundred pounds each ; two store- houses filled with gun-car- riages, cannon, ball, and sev- eral hundred stand of small arms; besides workshops, etc. About one hundred men have been employed, under the superintendence of Cap- tain F. D. Calender, in the construction of an arsenal two hundred feet in length by sixty feet in width, and three stories in height, suit- ably provided with towers, loop-holes, windows, etc. Be- sides this, a large citadel is in course of erection. Two hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars have al- ready been appropriated to these works, and they will most probably require as much more before the whole is completed. 24 SCENES IN CALIFOENIA. Here, too, are ten highly and curiously ornamented bronze can- non, six eight-pounders and four four-pounders, that were brought originally from old Spain, and taken at Fort Point during our war with Mexico. The following names and dates, besides coats of arms, etc., are inscribed on some of them : " San Martin, Ano. D. 1684." " Poder, Ano. D. 1693." " San Francisco, Ano. D. 1673." " San Domengo, Ano. D. 1679." u San Pedro, Ano. D. 1628." As the barracks are merely a depot for the reception and trans- mission of troops, it is difficult to say how many soldiers are quartered here at any one time. There are numerous other interesting places about Benicia, one of which is the extensive works of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, where all the repairs to their vessels are made, coal deposited, etc., etc. In 1853, Benicia was chosen the capital of the state by our peripatetic legislature, and continued to hold that position for about a year, when it was taken to Sacramento, where it still (for a wonder) remains. And, though last, by no means the least important feature of Benicia, is the widely-known and deservedly flourishing boarding- school for young ladies, the Benicia Seminary, under the charge of Mr. and Mrs. Mills, founded in 1852, and in which several young ladies have taken graduating honors. Next to this is St. Augustine's College for young men, under the superintendence of Rev. Dr. Breck, and which was established in 1853 ; adjoining which is the college of Notre Dame, for the edu- cation of Catholic children. These, united to the excellent sentiments of the people, make Benicia a favorite place of resi- dence for families. MARTINEZ. Nearly opposite to Benicia, and distant only three miles, is the pretty agricultural village of Martinez, the county-seat of Contra Costa county. A week among the live-oaks, gardens, and farms THE MAMMOTH TKEES OF CALAVEKAS. 25 in and around this lovely spot, will convince the most sceptical that there are few more beautiful places in any part of the state. A steam ferry-boat plies across the straits between this place and Benicia, every hour in the day. The Stockton boat always used to touch here both going and returning. The run across the Straits of Carquinez, from Benicia to Mar- tinez, three miles distant, takes about ten minutes. Then, after a few moments' delay, we again dash onward the moonlight gilding the troubled waters in the wake of our vessel, as she plows her swift way through the Bay of Suisun, and to all appear- ance deepens the shadows on the darker sides of Monte Diablo, by defining, with silvery clearness, the uneven ridges and summit of that solitary mountain mass. But now we must hurry on our way, as the steamboat is by this time passing the different islands in the Bay of Suisun, named as follows : Preston Island, King's, Simmons', Davis', Washing- ton, Knox's, Jones', and Sherman's Island ; while on our right, boldly distinct in outline and form, stands MONTE DIABLO. Almost every Californiaii has seen Monte Diablo. It is the great central landmark of the state. Whether we are walking in the streets of San Francisco, or sailing on any of our bays and navigable rivers, or riding on any of the roads in the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, or standing -on the elevated ridges of the mining districts before us in lonely boldness, and at almost every turn, we see Monte del Diablo. Probably from its apparent omnipresence we are indebted to its singular name, Mount of the Demi. Viewed from the north-west or south-east, it appears double, or with two elevations, the points of which are about three miles apart. The south-western peak is the most elevated, and is three thousand seven hundred and sixty feet above the sea. For the purpose of properly surveying the state into a net- work of township lines, three meridians or initial points were established by the United States Survey, namely : Monte Diablo, SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. MONTE DIABLO, WITH A POETION OF SUISUN BAY, FEOM THE SULPHUR-SPRING HOUSE. Mount San Bernardino, and Mount Pierce, Humboldt county. Across the highest peaks of each of these, a " meridian line" and a " base line" were run ; the latter from east to west, and the former from north to south. The boundaries of the Monte Diablo meridian include all the lands in the great Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, between the Coast Range and the Sierras, and from the Siskiyou Mountains to the San Bernardino meridian, at the head of the Tulare Valley. The geological formation of this mountain is what is usually termed " primitive ;" surrounded by sedimentary rocks, abound- ing in marine shells. Near the summit there are a few quartz veins, but whether gold-bearing or not has not yet been deter- mined. About one-third of the distance from the top, on the western slope, is a " hornblende" rock of peculiar structure, and said by some to contain gold. In the numerous spurs at the base, there is an excellent and inexhaustible supply of limestone. At the eastern foot of the mountains, about five miles from the San Joaquin River, several veins of coal have been discovered, and are now being worked with good prospects of remuneration, THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVEKAS. 27 as the veins grow thicker and the quality better, as they proceed with their labors. It is said that copper ore and cinnabar have both been found here, but with what truth we are unable to determine. Some Spaniards have reported that they know of some rich mineral there ; but do not tell of what kind, and, for reasons best known to themselves, will neither communicate their secret to others nor work it themselves. If the reader has no objection, we will climb the mountain at least in imagination, as the captain, although an obliging man enough, will not detain the boat for us to ascend it de facto and see what further discoveries we can make. Provided with good horses always make sure of the latter on any trip you may make, reader an excellent telescope, and a liberal allowance of luncheon, let us leave the beautiful village of Martinez at seven o'clock A.M. For the first four miles, we ride over a number of pretty and gently rolling hills, at a lively gait, and arrive at the Pacheco Valley, on the edge of which stands the flourishing little village of Pacheco. We now dash across the valley at good speed for eight miles, in a south-east direction, and reach the western foot of Monte Diablo, after a good hour's pleasant ride. For the first mile and a half of our ascent we have a good wagon road, built in 1852, to give easy access to a quartz lead, from which considerable rock was taken in wagons to the Bay of Suisun, and, after being shipped to San Francisco, for the pur- pose of being tested, was found to contain gold, but not in suffi- cient quantities to pay for working it ; for the next two miles, a good, plain trail to the main summit, passes several clear springs of cold water. From the numerous tracks of the grizzly bears that were seen at the springs, we may naturally conclude that such animals have their sleeping apartments among the bunches of chaparal in the canons yonder : and, if we should see the track-makers before we return, we hope our companions will keep up their courage and sufficient presence of mind to prevent themselves imitating Mr. 28 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. Grizzly at the spring at least not in the direction of the settle- ments and leave us alone in our glory. As you will perceive, the summit of the mountain is reached without the necessity of dismounting ; and as there are wild oats all around, and the stores of sundries provided have not been lost or left behind, suppose we rest and refresh ourselves, and allow our animals to do the same. The sight of the glorious panorama unrolled at our feet, we need not tell you, amply repays us for our early ride. As we look around us, we may easily imagine that perhaps the priests who named this mountain may have climbed it, and as they saw the wonders spread out before them, recalled to memory the following passage of holy writ: "The devil taketh him [Jesus] up into an exceeding high mountain, and sheweth him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them; and saith unto him, All these things will I give thee, if thou wilt fall down and worship me'' (MATTHEW 4th, verses 8 and 9) ; and from this time called it Monte del Diablo. Of course, this is mere supposition, and is as likely to be wrong as it is to be right. The Pacific Ocean ; the city, and part of the bay of San Fran- cisco ; Fort Point ; the Golden Gate ; San Pablo and Suisun Bays; the government works at Mare Island ; Yallejo; Benicia; the valleys of Santa Clara, Petaluma, Sonoma, Kapa, Sacramento, and San Joaquin, with their rivers, creeks, and sloughs, in all their tortuous windings ; the cities of Stockton and Sacramento ; and the great line of the snow-covered Sierras ; with numerous villages dotting the pine forests on the lower mountain range are all spread out before you. In short, there is nothing to obstruct the sight in any direction ; and, with a good glass, the steamers and vessels at anchor in the bay, and made fast at the wharves of San Francisco, are distinctly visible. Stock may be seen grazing, in all directions, on the mountains. To the very summit, wild oats and chaparal alternately grow. In the canons are oak and pine trees from fifty to one hundred feet in height ; and, on the more exposed portions, there are low trees from twenty to thirty feet in height. THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 29 In the fall season, when the wild oats and dead bushes are per fectly dry, the Indians sometimes set large portions of the surface of the mountains on fire ; and, when the breeze is fresh, and the night is dark, and the lurid flames leap, and curl, and sway, now to this side and now to that, the spectacle presented is magnificent beyond the power of language to express. SAILING UP THE SAN JOAQUIN EIVEK. The Sacramento boat, we see, is going straight forward, and will soon enter the Sacramento River, up which her course lies ; while ours is to the right, past "New York of the Pacific" (con- taining three dilapidated houses), touching at Antioch, the conve- nient depot of the Monte Diablo coal mines, just sufficiently long to discharge passengers and freight, we shoot up the San Joaquin. The evening being calm and sultry, it soon becomes evident that, if it is not the height of the musquito season, a very numer- ous band are out on a freebooting excursion ; and, although their harvest-home song of blood is doubtless very musical, it is matter of regret with us to confess that, in our opinion, but few persons on board appear to have any ear for it. In order, however, that their musical efforts may not be entirely lost sight of, they the muscjiiitos take pleasure in writing and impressing their low refrain, in red and embossed notes, upon the foreheads of the passengers, so that he who looks may read, "Musquitos !" when, alas! such is the ingratitude felt for favors so voluntarily per- formed, that flat-handed blows are dealt out to them in impetuous haste ; and blood, blood, blood, and flattened musquitos, are written, in red and dark brown spots, .upon the smiter ; and the notes of those singers are heard no more ! While the unequal warfare is going on, and one carcass of the slain induces at least a dozen of the living to come to his funeral and avenge his death, we are sailing on, on, up one of the most crooked and monotonous navigable rivers out of doors ; and, as we may as well do something more than fight the little, bill- presenting, and tax-collecting musquitos, if only for variety, we will relate to the reader how, in the early spring of 1849, just 30 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. before leaving our southern home on the banks of "The Father of Waters," the old Mississippi, a gentleman arrived from northern Europe, and was at once introduced, a member of our little family circle. Ifow, however strange it may appear, our new friend had never in his life looked upon a live musquito, or a musquito-bar, and, consequently, knew nothing about the arrangements of a goodfemme de charge for passing a comfortable night, where such insects were even more numerous than oranges. In the morning, he seated himself at the breakfast-table, his face nearly covered with wounds received from the enemy's proboscis, when an in- quiry was made by the lady of the house if he had passed the night pleasantly. " Yes yes," he replied with some hesitation ; " yes toler-a-bly pleasant ; although a small fly annoyed me somewhat!" At this confession we could restrain ourselves no longer, but broke out into a hearty laugh, led by our good- natured hostess, who then exclaimed : " Musquitos ! why, I never dreamed that the marks on your face were musquito bites. I thought they might be from a rash, or something of that kind. Why, didn't you lower down your musquito-bars ?" But, as this latter appendage to a bed, on the low, alluvial lands of a southern river, was a greater stranger to him than any dead language known, the " small fly" problem had to be satisfactorily solved, and his sleep made sweet. Perhaps it may be well here to remark, that the San Joaquin River is divided into three branches, known, respectively, as the west, middle, and east channels the latter named being not only the main stream, but the one used by the steamboats and sailing- vessels bound to and from Stockton or, at least, to within four miles of that city, from which point the Stockton slough is used. The east, or main channel, is navigable for small, stern-wheel steamboats as high as Frezno City. Besides the three main chan- nels of the San Joaquin, before mentioned, there are numerous tributaries, the principal of which are the Moquelumne, Calaveras, Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced Rivers. An apparently interminable sea of tules extends nearly one hundred and fifty miles, south, up the valley of the San Joaquin ; THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 31 and when these are on fire, as 'they not unfrequently are, during the fall and early winter months, the broad sheet of licking and leaping name, and the vast volumes of smoke that rise, and eddy, and surge, hither and thither, present a scene of fearful grandeur at night, that is suggestive of some earthly pandemonium. NIGHT SCENE" ON THE SAN JOAQUIN KIVER MONTE DIABLO IN THE DISTANCE. The lumbering sound- of the boat's machinery has suddenly ceased, and our high-pressure motive power, descended from a regular to an occasional snorting, gives us a reminder that we have reached Stockton. Time, half-past two o'clock A.M. At day-break we are again disturbed in our fitful slumbers, by the rumbling of wagons and hurrying bustle of laborers dis- charging cargo ; and before we have scarcely turned over for another uncertain nap, the stentorian lungs of some employee of the stage companies announce, that " stages for Sonora, Columbia, Moquelumne Hill, Sacramento, Mariposa, Coulterville, and Mur- phy's, are just about starting." 32 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. The reader knows as well as we do, tliat it is of no use, what- ever, to be in too great a hurry when we are sight-seeing ; conse- quently, with his permission, we will allow the stages to depart without us this morning, and take a quiet walk about the city. THE CITY OF STOCKTON. This nourishing commercial city is situated in the valley of the San Joaquin, at the head of a deep navigable slough or arm of the San Joaquin River, about three miles from its junction with that stream. The luxuriant foliage of the trees and shrubs impress the stranger with the great fertility of the soil ; and the unusually large number of windmills with the manner of irrigation. So marked a feature as the latter has secured to this locality the cog- nomen of "the City of Windmills." The land upon which the city stands is part of a grant made by Governor Micheltorena, to Captain C. M. Weber and Mr. Gulnac, in 1844, who most probably were the first white settlers in the valley of the San Joaquin ; although some Canadian Frenchmen, in the employ of the Hudson Bay Company, spent several hunt- ing seasons here, commencing as early as 1834. In 1813, an exploring expedition, under Lieutenant Gabriel Morago, visited this valley, and gave it its present name the former, one being " Yalle de los Tulares," or Yalley of Rushes. At that time, it was occupied by a large and formidable tribe of Indians, called the Yachicumnes, who, in after times, were for the most part captured and sent to the Missions Dolores and San Jose, or decimated by the small-pox, and now are nearly extinct. Under the maddening influence of their losses by death from that fatal disease, they rose upon the whites, burned their buildings and killed their stock, and forced them to take shelter at the Mis- sions. In 1846, Mr. "Weber, reinforced by a number of emigrants, re- newed his efforts to form a settlement ; but the war breaking out, compelled him to seek refuge in the larger settlements, until the Bear flag was hoisted, when Captain Weber, from his knowledge of the country, and the devotedness of those who had placed 34 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. themselves under his command, was able to render invaluable aid to the American cause. When the war was concluded, in 1848, another and successful attempt was made to establish a prosperous settlement here, but upon the discovery of gold it \vas again nearly deserted. Several cargoes of goods having arrived from San Francisco, for land transportation to the southern mines, were suggestive of the importance of this spot for the foundation of a city, when cloth tents and houses sprung up as if by magic. On the 23d of De- cember, 1849, a fire broke out for the first time, and the " linen city," as it was then called, was swept away, causing a loss of about two hundred thousand dollars. Almost before the ruins had ceased smouldering, a new^er and cleaner "linen city," with a few wooden buildings, was erected in its place. In the following spring, a large proportion of the cloth houses gave place to wooden structures; and, being now in steam communication with San Francisco, the new city began to grow substantially in importance. On the 30th of March, 1850, the first weekly Stockton newspa- per was published by Radcliffe and White, conducted by Mr. John "White. On the same day, the first theatrical performance was given, in the Assembly Room of the Stockton House, by Messrs. Bingham and Fury. On the 13th of May following, the first election w r as held the population then numbering about two thousand four hundred. June 26th, a fire department was organized, and J. E. Nuttman elected chief engineer. On the 25th of the following month an order was received from the County Court, incorporating the city of Stockton, and author- izing the election of officers. On the 1st of August, 1850, an election for municipal officers was held, when seven hundred votes were polled, with the following result: Mayor, Samuel Purdy ; Eecorder, C. M. Teak ; City Attorney, Henry A. Crabb ; Treasurer, George D. Brush ; Assessor, C. Edmondson ; Marshal, T. S. Lubbock. On the 6th of May, 1851, a fire broke out that nearly destroyed THE MAMMOTH TKEES OF CALAVERAS. 35 tlie whole city, at a loss of one million five hundred thousand dollars. After this con- flagration, a large number of brick buildings were erected. In 1852, steps were taken to build a City Hall ; and about the same time, the south wing of what is now the State Asylum for the Insane, was erected as a General Hospi- tal; but which was abolished in 1853, and the Insane Asylum formed into a distinct institution by an act of the Legislature. In 1854, the central building was added, and in 1855, the kitchen, bakery, dining-rooms, and bath-rooms were also added. On the 1st of February, 1856, another fire destroyed property to the amount of about sixty thousand dollars ; and on the 30th of July following, by the same cause, about forty thousand dollars' worth of prop- erty was swept away. There are twelve places of worship in Stockton : two Presbyterian, two Baptist, an Episcopal, Congregational, Methodist Episcopal, Methodist Church South, Ger- man Methodist, Catholic, colored Metho- dist, and a Jewish synagogue. Of newspapers published here, there are the Stockton Independent, daily and weekly, N. M. Orr & Co., proprietors ; San Joaquin Republican, daily and weekly, H. C. Pat- rick & Co., proprietors ; and the Evening Herald, daily, Wm. Biven, proprietor. There are seven public schools here, with an aggregate attendance of 1,275 scholars, as follows: Washington, 350 ; Lafayette, 325 ; Franklin, 225 ; North, 100 ; South, 80 ; Vineyard, 125; Pacific, 70: Total, 1,275. 36 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. These are exclusive of several flourishing private schools, the success of which will prove how well they were conducted. Stockton can boast of having the deepest artesian well in the state, which is one thousand and two feet in depth, and which throws out two hundred and fifty gallons of water per minute, fif- teen thousand per hour, and three hundred and sixty thousand gallons every twenty-four hours, to the height of eleven feet above the plain, and nine feet above the city grade. In sinking this well, ninety-six different strata of loam, clay, mica, green sandstone, pebbles, etc., were passed through. Three hundred and forty feet from the surface, a redwood stump was found, imbedded in sand, from whence a stream of water issued to the top. The tempera- ture of the water is YT Fahrenheit the atmosphere being only 60. The cost of this well was ten thousand dollars. One of the principal features connected with the commerce of this city, is the number of large freight wagons, laden for the mines; these have, not inappropriately, been denominated " prairie schooners," and " steamboats of the plains." One team, belonging to Mr. Warren, has taken one hundred thousand pounds to Mariposa in four frips, thus averaging twenty-five thousand per trip. An- other team, belonging to Mr. Huffman, hauled thirty-two thousand from Staple's Ranche to Stockton. Twenty-nine thousand six hun- dred and eighty pounds of freight, in addition to seven hundred pounds of feed, were hauled to Jenny Lind a mining town on the Moquelumne Hill road, twenty-seven miles from Stockton by twelve mules. The cost of these wagons is from nine hundred to eleven hundred and fifty dollars. In length, they are generally from twenty to twenty-three feet on the top, and from eighteen to nineteen feet on the bottom. Mules cost upon the average three hundred and fifty dollars each ; and some very large ones sell as high as one thousand four hundred dollars the span. One man drives and tends as many as fourteen animals, guiding and driving with a single line. These teams have nearly superseded the use of pack trains, inasmuch as formerly the number of animals in the packing trade exceeded one thousand five hundred, and now it is only about one hundred and sixty. It would be a source of THE MAMMOTH TREES OF CALAVERAS. 37 considerable amusement to our eastern friends, could they see how easily these large mules are managed. They are drilled like soldiers, and are almost as tractable. When a teamster cracks his whip, it sounds like the sharp quick report of a revolver, and is nearly as loud. Several stages leave Stockton daily, at six o'clock, A.M. : For Chinese Camp, fare, $7 (connecting at Chinese with stages for Big Oak Flat, Garrote, Hardin's Mill, Tamarack Flat, and at the lat- ter place with saddle train to Hutchings', in Yo-Sem'ite, eleven miles distant. Also with Coulterville) ; Sonora and Columbia, fare, $8 ; for Copperopolis, fare, $6 ; Murphy's Camp, fare, $8 ; Calaveras Grove of Mammoth Trees, fare, $10. These fares, it should be remembered, are from Stockton through to the points named. On alternate days, at the same hour, for Mariposa, the Mariposa Mammoth Tree Grove, and Yo-Semite, fare to Mariposa, $10. A daily line is projected on this route. The Western Pacific railroad, directly connected with the " Central Pacific" and " Union Pacific," passes straight through Stockton. Visitors who wish to see the Yo-Semite valley, or either grove of big trees, before going to San Francisco, should here leave the train, as every mile in either direction, on that great thoroughfare, would be that much out of the way. Two new lines of railway are now being constructed : " The Stockton and Copperopolis," and " The Stockton and Tulare." The terminus of the former will be thirty-six miles, on the shortest, as well as on one of the most picturesque of routes, to both the Calaveras Grove and the Yo-Semite. The latter will pass a point some twelve miles west of " Snelling's," on the Merced River, and will convey passengers on the Mariposa route to within some ninety -five miles of Yo-Semite. Both these lines will afford pleasant and rapid transit over the dusty plains now the least comfortable of any portion of the trip. STOCKTON, VIA COPPKROPOLIS, TO THE CALAVERAS BIG TREES. u All aboard for Copperopolis, Murphy's, and the Calaveras Big- Tree Grove," cries the coachman. " All set," shouts somebody in answer; when, "crack goes the whip, and away go we." 38 SCENES IN CALIFORNIA. There is a feeling of jovial, good-humored pleasureableness that steals insensibly over the secluded residents of cities when all the cares of a daily routine of duties are left behind, and the novelty of fresh scenes forms new sources of enjoyment. Especially is it so when seated comfortably in an easy old stage, with the prospect be- fore us of witnessing one of the most wonderful sights to be found in any far-off country, either of the old or new world. Besides, in addition to our being in the reputed position of a Frenchman with his dinner, who is said to enjoy it three times first, by anticipa- tion ; second, in participation ; and third, upon retrospection ; we have new views perpetually breaking upon our admiring sight. As soon as we have passed over the best gravelled streets of any town or city in the state, without exception, we thread our way past the beautiful suburban residences of the city of Stockton, and emerge from the shadows of the giant oaks that stand on either side the road. The deliciously cool breath of early morning, laden as it is in spring and early summer, with the fragrance of myriads of flowers and scented shrubs, we inhale with an acme of enjoyment that contrasts inexpressibly with the almost stifling and unsavory warmth of a liliputian state-room on board a high-pressure steamboat. The bracing air will soon restore the loss of appetite resulting from, and almost consequent upon, the excitement created by the novel circumstances and prospects attending us, so that when we arrive at the first public-house for a change of horses, and break- fast is announced, it is not by any means an unwelcome sound. The inner man being allowed about fifteen minutes to receive satisfaction, and a fresh relay of horses provided, we are soon upon our way again. At the " twenty-seven mile house," we again " change" horses. By this time the day and the travellers all be- come warm together; and as the cooling land-breeze dies out, the dust begins to pour in by every chink and aperture, so that the luxurious enjoyments of the early morning depart in the same way that lawyers are said to get to heaven by degrees. Leaving Copperopolis, we pass through the mining towns of Angel's Camp, Yallecito, and Douglas Flat, arriving at Sperry