e ite M(o8 BANCROFT LIBRARY fr THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA A GENERAL VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES; COMPRISING, ALSO, A DESCRIPTION OF EACH INDIVIDUAL STATE AND TERRITORY IN THE'UNION; TO WHICH ARE ADDED, VARIOUS TABULAE STATEMENTS, COMPREHENDING AGGREGATES OF THE POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES, AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, AS WELL AS IN THE YEAR 1840. TABLES OF THE MINING, AGRICULTURAL, MANUFACTURING, AND COMMERCIAL INDUSTRY OF THE UNION; ALSO, OF ITS CANALS, RAIL-ROADS, COLLEGES, RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS, ETC. BY S. AUGUSTUS MITCHELL. PHILADELPHIA. PUBLISHED BY S. AUGUSTUS MITCHELL, N. E. CORNER OP MARKET AND SEVENTH STS. 1846. Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by H. N. BURROUGHS, in the clerk's office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PREFACE. BANCROFT LIBRARY THE rapid growth of the American Republic in extent and population, and the distinguished position it has assumed among the nations of the earth, render an acquaintance with the geography of its various states and territories so important, that no one can, without the imputation of ignorance, be destitute to any extent of a knowledge of what is becoming every day better understood, and of which the means and the materials are constantly on the increase. It is, doubtless, incumbent on every individual to become familiar, as far as practicable, with the geography, resources, and condition of the country of which he is a citizen : more especially he who exercises the right of suffrage should, to the extent that his means will permit, obtain a knowledge of the character and details of the government of which he may with propriety be called one of the joint sove reigns, and for the proper conduct of the administration of which he is indirectly responsible. A perusal of the following pages will be found to supply a large amount of valuable information, concisely stated in comparatively a small space, and to impart an intimate acquaintance with the physical features, population, produc tions, resources, trade, and improvement of all parts of the Union. For fami lies it is well calculated as a compendious reading-book ; and for scholars, whose ideas of geography are derived from some of the various treatises that are usually studied in the public and private schools of the Union, it will impart a more extended and enlarged view of that important science. The geographical description comprises a general account of the Union, with its Executive government, Judiciary, Public Lands, Army, Navy, &c. ; followed by a special delineation of all the different states, including Florida and Texas, as well as the Wisconsin, Iowa, Indian, Missouri, and Oregon Territories representing their position, soil, minerals, agriculture, products, manufactures, commerce, religious denominations, cities, towns, &c. ; all derived from the best authorities, and brought down to the present time. Besides which, there are a number of valuable statistical tables, comprehending an aggregate of the num bers of the different classes of the inhabitants, and their pursuits, the compara tive numbers of the population at different periods, besides lists of the universi ties and colleges, and other literary and scientific institutions, the principal canals and rail-roads, numbers of the individuals attached to the different religious societies in the country, &c. The whole forming a mass of facts, interesting to men of business and students of geography, as well as to the public generally. Philadelphia, April, 1846. UNITED STATES. UNITED STATES. *.* ** * * THE UNITED STATES are the most interesting and important division of the western continent They are distinguished for the excellence of their govern ment, the rapid increase of the population, and for the intelligence, industry, and enterprise of the inhabitants. They occupy the most valuable and productive portion of North America, and rank amongst the most powerful commercial and wealthy nations of the globe. The United States are situated between 24 20' and 54 40' N. latitude, and longitude 17 E., and 125 W. longitude, extending through 29 degrees of lati tude and 58 degrees of longitude, and comprise a superficial area of upwards of 2,300,000 square miles. The frontier line has a length of 10,000 miles, of which about 3600 are sea-coast, and 1200 lake-coast. A line drawn across from the At lantic to the Pacific, through the centre, is about 2500 miles in length. So vast a region of course includes a great variety of surface, soil, and climate. It abounds in navigable rivers, and a large proportion of it is susceptible of culti vation, and is of a quality calculated to repay the labour bestowed upon it, more than almost any other region of the same extent in the world : but a small portion of its surface is occupied by mountains, which, from their height or ruggedness, forbid all attempts to render them productive in the means of subsistence to man. There are no great deserts, and few barrens ; nothing like the vast sterile plains which exist in other parts of the world. The basins of the rivers are exceed ingly productive : that of the Mississippi, including the Missouri, is undoubtedly the finest valley on the globe. It is abundantly watered by streams, which not only give fertility to their borders, but are ready to waft the gifts of the soil to the ocean, and bring back to the inhabitants the products of all other climes. The soil returns an ample harvest for all that is planted in it, and the climate is favour able to almost every production of the earth that can sustain life or increase its luxuries. Though lying within the temperate zone, the United States embrace a great variety of climate. In the northern parts, the winters are long and severe ; snow often falls to the depth of two or three feet, and the cold is so piercing as to oblige the inhabitants to make very diligent provision against it. Spring returns here in April, and in summer the heat is great. In the southern parts of the country, snow is seldom seen, ice is rarely formed in the rivers, and those fruits which shrink from a northern climate, and flourish only in warm regions, are scattered over the soil. In Georgia, the inhabitants may collect the figs which grow before the windows, and may load their tables with oranges, lemons, and other exquisite fruits that grow in their gardens and groves, while in parts of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, even peaches will not flourish. Between these extremities, as in Virginia, Kentucky, Missouri, and Illinois, there is a re gion adapted to the wine-grape, which thrives best in places removed from both the torrid and frigid zones. The United States are intersected by two principal and two subordinate ranges of mountains, the Rocky and Alleghany, the Ozark and Green Mountains. The Rocky Mountain, or Chippewayan range, forms the great dividing ridge of North America, separating the waters which flow in opposite directions, towards the great oceans which bound the opposite sides of the continent. They are situated at a medium distance of about 600 miles from the Pacific ; the highest rise above the line of perpetual congelation, being estimated at about 12,000 feet in height. The Alleghany, or Appalachian range, runs in a north-easterly direction from the northern part of Alabama to New-York, stretching along in uniform ridges, at the distance of from 250 to 80 miles from the sea-coast, and following its gene ral direction. It occupies in breadth a space of from 60 to 120 miles, and sepa rates the waters which run into the Atlantic Ocean, from those which flow into the Mississippi and its tributaries. The highest elevation in this range, and the UNITED STATES. most prominent in the Atlantic States, is Black Mountain, in the western part of North Carolina : it is 6476 feet in height. The Green Mountains extend from Connecticut, through Massachusetts and Vermont, to Canada, dividing the Atlantic rivers from those of Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence. Some of the peaks of this range attain considerable ele vation. In New Hampshire and Maine, are found many considerable peaks, whicli are not connected with any systematic range, but are scattered in detached groups. The White Mountains, in New Hampshire, are the most elevated in New England. Mount Katahdin, or Ktaadin, near the centre of the state of Maine, is the highest in that state. The view from its summit is fine and varied, and extends over 80 or 100 miles. The other principal heights in Maine are Wassataquoik Mountain, Mount Abraham, Mount Bigelow, Speckled Mountain. The Ozark Mountains extend from Texas, through the western part of Arkan sas, into the lead-mine region of Missouri. Their general direction is nearly similar to that of the Alleghany range, and their altitude is supposed to be about 2000 feet above the sea. The territory of the United States is washed by three seas, the Atlantic Ocean on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The principal bays and sounds on the Atlantic border, are Passamaquoddy Bay, which lies between the state of Maine and the British province of New Bruns wick ; Massachusetts Bay, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, on the coast of Massachusetts ; Long Island Sound, between Long Island and the coast of Con necticut ; Delaware Bay, between Cape May and Cape Henlopen, which sepa rates New Jersey from Delaware ; Chesapeake Bay, which communicates with the ocean between Cape Charles and Cape Henry, and extends in a northern di rection for 200 miles, through the states of Virginia and Maryland ; and Albe- marle and Pamplico Sounds, on the coast of North Carolina. In the Gulf of Mexico, the principal bays are Chatham Bay, near the southern extremity of the peninsula of Florida ; Appalachie Bay ; and Mobile Bay, in Alabama. In the Pacific, the Gulf of Georgia is the most important inlet on the western coast of the United States. It separates Qudra and Vancouver's Island from the main land, and is about 120 miles in length from north to south, and from 5 to 20 miles in width. The great lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, not being altogether in the United States, have been described elsewhere. The boundary between the Bri tish and American territories passes through their centre, allotting about an equal share of their vast waters to each nation. Lake Michigan is wholly within the territory of the United States. It is connected with Huron by the Strait of Michillimackinac, and is about 320 miles in length, and from 55 to 60 miles wide, with an area of 16,200 square miles. The country around the head of 'this lake is settling rapidly ; and the mildness of the climate, the excellence of the soil, and the probable speedy junction of its waters with those of the Mississippi, will shortly fill this portion of the west with population and wealth. By the St. Clair River, of 35 miles course, the waters of Huron rapidly descend to the St. Clair, a shallow lake about 90 miles in circuit. Detroit River connects Lakes St. Clair and Erie. The other lakes of any magnitude in the United States are Champlain in New- York, Winnipiseogee in New Hampshire, and Moose Head in Maine. Lake Champlain separates the States of New York and Vermont, and is in extent 140 miles nearly north and south. It is connected with the Hudson river by the Champlain canal, and with the St. Lawrence river by the Sorelle, or Riche lieu. Large and elegant steam-boats ply daily between Whitehall and St. John's, Lower Canada, which touch at the principal places, and numerous travellers are constantly passing and repassing this route during the season of navigation. Lake Winnipiseogee is one of the most picturesque sheets of water in New England. It is very irregular in form, and contains a number of islands, some of which are cultivated. The lake is about 22 miles long, and from 1 to 8 miles wide. Moose Head Lake is situated in the central parts of Maine. It is of an irre gular form, about 38 miles in length, and from 2 to 12 wide. The main branch UNITED STATES. of Kennebeck river flows from it. Around it, at various distances, are situated some of the highest mountains in Maine. The Rivers which water the territory of the United States are numerous, and some of them among the most important in the world. No portion of the globe possesses greater facilities for inland navigation and trade, or is more generally intersected with large and navigable streams. They may be divided into four great classes : 1st. The streams which rise on the east side of the Alleghany mountains, and flow into the Atlantic Ocean ; 2d. Those south of the Alleghany range, which discharge themselves into the Gulf of Mexico ; 3d. The Mississippi and its wide tributaries, which drain the waters of the vast valley included be tween 'the Rocky and Alleghany ranges; and 4th. The rivers which, rising on the western declivity of the Rocky Mountains, direct their course to the Pacific Ocean. The Penobscot is the largest river that has its course wholly in the State of Maine. It joins the Penobscot Bay between the towns of Penobscot and Prospect. It is na-vigable for vessels of considerable burden to Bangor, where navigation and the tide terminate. Large quantities of timber are exported from the sea-ports on the river and bay. The course of this river is near 300 miles. Kennebeck River is, next to the Penobscot, the largest in Maine. It is the outlet of Moose Head lake, the most considerable in the State. It is navigable for vessels of 150 tons to Hallo well, 40 miles from the sea. Its whole course is about 230 miles. Connecticut River, the most important stream in New England, rises in the highlands separating the United States from Canada, and flows into Long Island Sound, after a course of upwards of 400 miles. It is navigable to Hartford for large steam-boats, and vessels of 8 feet draught ; also for small steam-boats to Wells river, in Vermont, more than 200 miles above Hartford. The head waters of this river are elevated 1600 feet above Long Island Sound. Its banks present to the eye every variety of scenery ; magnificent mountains and hills, delightful valleys and meadows, unsurpassed in beauty and fertility, and many of the most beautiful towns and villages in New England. The Hudson River rises west of Lake Champlain in numerous branches, and pursuing nearly a straight southerly course of about 320 miles, unites with the Atlantic below the city of New York. This is one of the most important rivers in the United States. The navigation and commerce on its waters are very great, and annually increasing. By means of the Erie and Champlain canals, it is con nected with Lake Erie and the St. Lawrence river. It is navigable for ships of large burden to Hudson city, and for the largest steam-boats to Albany and Troy. Delaware River rises in New York, and flowing south, separates Pennsylvania from New York and New Jersey, and falls into Delaware bay, after a course of about 310 miles, below New Castle. It is navigable for vessels of the greatest burden to Philadelphia, and for small craft to the head of the tide at Trenton, above which city it is navigable 100 miles for boats of 8 or 9 tons. Susquehannah River, one of the largest in Pennsylvania, is formed by its north and west branches, which unite at Northumberland. Its north, or longest branch, rises in Otsego lake, New York, from whence to its mouth is about 460 miles. The Potomac River rises in two branches in the Alleghany Mountains, and forms, during its course to Chesapeake bay, the boundary between Virginia and Maryland. It is navigable for vessels of large burthen to Washington city. Its junction at Harper's Ferry with the Shenandoah, is regarded as a great curiosity. Its length is about 335 miles. James River pursues a course of upwards of 400 miles, and unites with the south part of Chesapeake Bay at Hampton Roads. It is navigable for sloops to Richmond, where the Great Falls formerly presented an obstruction, but a canal has been made around them, and the river is now navigable for batteaux 230 miles above the city. Savannah River separates South Carolina from Georgia, and enters the Atlantic 17 miles below Savannah, to which city it is navigable for vessels of large bur den. Steam-boats ascend the river to Augusta falls. UNITED STATES. Appalachicola, which discharges itself into the bay of the same name, in the julf of Mexico, is formed by the union of the Chattahoochee and Flint rivers. Phe former is navigated to Columbus by steam-boats : on its head-waters are lumerous gold-mines. The Appalachicola and Chattahoochee united, are about [25 miles in length. The Mobile River is formed by the junction of the Alabama and Tombeckbee ivers, 40 miles above Mobile. The head-waters of the Alabama rise in the gold- egion of Georgia, not far from the sources of the Chattahoochee, and after a south west course of near 500 miles, form a junction with the Tombeckbee. Steam- )oats ascend to Montgomery, a distance, by the meanders of the rivers, of near 300 miles. The Mississippi is the largest river of North America, and one of the noblest n the world watering a more fertile region, and having a larger course of unin- ;errupted navigation, than any other known stream. Its course taken in con- lexion with its mighty auxiliary, the Missouri is estimated at 4490 miles in ength. The space drained by its waters is supposed to exceed 1,300,000 square niles, being upwards of two-thirds of the whole territory of the United States, or ibout one twenty-eighth part of the terraqueous surface bf the globe. In no por- ,ion of the world has the triumph of art over the obstacles of nature been so com pete. The introduction of steam-navigation has been productive of immense idvantages, and has been carried to a greater extent than on any other river. Mississippi proper rises west of Lake Superior, in a dreary and desolate region, imidst lakes and swamps, and, after pursuing a south-east course of about 600 niles, reaches the falls of St. Anthony, where it descends perpendicularly 16 feet, md where are 58 feet of rapids. Thence it flows a south-easterly, and then southerly direction ; and after forming the boundary between Missouri, Arkansas Perritory, and Louisiana, on the west, and Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Mississippi, on the east, discharges its waters, through many mouths, into the julf of Mexico. It is nearly 3000 miles long, and is navigable for steam-boats to the falls of St. Anthony. The following are the principal tributaries of the Mis sissippi from the west : The St. Peter's, which joins it at Fort Snelling, is a stream of about 400 miles, flowing a south-east course. The Des Moines, a river about 400 miles in length, enters the Mississippi about 130 miles above the Missouri. The Missouri enters the Mississippi river about 18 miles above St. Louis, after a course of 3217 miles. Although it loses its name at its confluence with the latter, it is much the longer stream of the two ; but the Mississippi, having been first discovered and explored, has retained its name to the Gulf of Mexico. This error being now past remedy, the Missouri must be considered as a tributary of the Mississipi. It is formed of numerous branches, which rise among the Rocky Mountains, between the parallels of 42 and 48 N. Latitude. The most remote are the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers. The only obstruction that occurs to its navigation is at the Great Falls, a distance of 2575 miles from the Missis sippi Here the river descends 362 feet in 18 miles : the descent is by four great pitches or cataracts, of 98, 19, 49, and 26 feet, respectively. The width of the river is about 350 yards, and the cataracts are considered to be, next to those of Niagara, the grandest in the world. About 100 miles above, is the place called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. This river was lately ascended by a steam- vessel 300 miles above the Yellow Stone, a distance from the mouth of the Mis sissippi of 3460 miles. The largest tributaries of the Missouri are, the Yellow Stone, of 1100 miles in length, the Platte, or Shallow river, of 1600 miles course, and the Kanzas, of 1200 miles in length. They all rise in the Rocky Mountains, and flow through a flat prairie country, inhabited by a widely scattered Indian population. The Arkansas is, after the Missouri, the most considerable tributary of the Mis sissippi from the west. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and its course is com puted to be about 2000 miles. It enters the Mississippi river about 540 miles below the Missouri. Steam-boats can generally ascend this river to the mouth 13 T UNITED STATE of the Canadian, its largest tributary, and occasionally to Cantonment Gibson, 640 miles from the Mississippi river. The Red River is the first tributary stream of any note which enters the Mis sissippi, in ascending from its mouth. It has a course of about 1500 miles, and flows through immense prairies of a red soil. The principal tributaries of the Mississippi which flow into it from the east ward are as follows : Chippeway River, 200 miles in length, enters the Mississippi at the lower end of Lake Pepin. The Wisconsin River joins the Mississippi about 4 or 5 miles below the town of Prairie du Chien. In part of its course it approaches so near the Fox River of Green Bay, as to leave a portage of only l miles. It is one of the great natu ral channels of communication between the lakes and the Mississippi. The Illinois River enters the Mississippi 18 miles above the Missouri, after a course of more than 400 miles. It is near a quarter of a mile wide at its mouth, and has a remarkably smooth, gentle current. The Ohio River is the largest eastern tributary of the Mississippi. At its junction, and for 100 miles above, it is as large as the parent stream. This river, from its commencement, affords the most delightful prospects. Tributaries of romantic and beautiful character come in almost at equal distances, as lateral canals. The Ohio is formed by the union of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers at Pittsburg. It flows in a south-westerly direction for 945 miles, separa ting the States of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, from Virginia and Kentucky, and falls into the Mississippi 193 miles below the Missouri. Its current is gentle, and is nowhere broken by any considerable falls, except at Louisville, in Ken tucky, where the water descends 22 feet in 2 miles. This obstruction is now obviated by the Louisville and Portland canal, which affords a passage to steam boats of small draft, at all seasons, to the upper parts of the river at Pittsburg. The chief tributaries of the Ohio are the Wabash, a fine navigable river, which rises in the north-east part of Indiana. It is in length about 450 miles. The Cumberland River rises in the mountains, on the eastern boundary of Kentucky. At high water, it is navigable for boats almost to its source, and for steam-boats to Nashville at all seasons. Tennessee River is formed by the union of several large branches, which rising in the mountainous country in western Virginia and North Carolina, unite in one in the vicinity of Knoxville, enters the Ohio 46 miles above the Mississippi, and 12 below the Cumberland. Its entire course from the source of its longest branch, is 850 miles distant from the Ohio. It is navigable for steam-boats, in most stages of the water, to Florence, at the foot of the Muscle Shoals. This is the most important of all the tributaries of the Ohio. The Yazoo, the most southern of the principal eastern tributaries of the Mis sissippi, has a course of 240 miles, and discharges its waters into the Mississippi about 12 miles above the Walnut Hills. The most considerable river on the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains is the Columbia, or Oregon. Its head-waters interlock with the Arkansas, Rio del Norte, &c. : it is about 1400 miles in length, its principal branches- are Lewis's or Saptin river, 1000 miles in extent ; Clark's or Flat Head river, 700 mites long, M'Gillivray's, Okinagan, &c. Fort George or Astoria, Fort Vancouver, and others, on these waters, are trading establishments belonging to the British Hud son's Bay Company. Vessels of 300 tons may ascend the Columbia, 125 miles; and large sloops may go up to the head of tide, 183 miles from the Ocean. Minerals abound in the United States in great variety and profusion. Iron is very generally diffused, and is very abundant. Lead, limestone, and coal both of the anthracite and bituminous kind, abound in quantities supposed to be inex haustible, especially of the former description. Gold has recently been found to a considerable amount in Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee. The most valuable mines are in North Carolina and Georgia. It is difficult to ascertain the amount of gold found in the United States ; but the value of the metal sent to the Mint, from 1823 to 1836, was $4,377,500, pro- UNITED STATES. bably not one half of the produce for that period, as large amounts of it are sent to Europe uncoined. The lead-mines of Missouri, Illinois and Wisconsin, are said to be the richest in quality in the world ; and the quantity of that metal ex tracted from the ore, within the last few years, has been so great as to exclude almost entirely the foreign article from our markets. The annual produce of the Missouri mines is estimated at 5 million, and of the Illinois and Wisconsin, 24 million pounds. Salt springs abound in many parts of. the Union, and large quantities are manu factured in New York, Western Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, and Illi nois : it is also made from sea-water in some parts of New England. The whole amount made in 1840 was 6,179,174 bushels. The United States form a federal republic. Each of the States is independent, and has the exclusive control of all concerns merely local ; but the defence of the country, the regulation of commerce, and all the general concerns^of the confede racy, are committed, by the constitution, to a general government. The legislative power is vested in a Congress, consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives. The Senate is composed of 2 members from each State, chosen every two years, for a period of six years, so that one-third of the Senate is renewed biennially. The members of the House of Representatives are chosen every two years. Their number is proportioned to the number of inhabitants, and the ratio has been fixed at one for every 70,680 inhabitants, three-fifths of the slaves being omitted in the enumeration. The House of Representatives repre sents the people; the Senate represents the States. The judiciary is composed of a Supreme Court, of one chief and eight associate judges ; of 35 District Courts, of one judge each, except that seven of the States are divided into districts (New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Alabama, Missis sippi and Louisiana, are divided into two districts each, and Tennessee is divided into three districts) ; there are 9 Circuit Courts, composed of the judge of the dis trict, and one of the judges of the Supreme Court. The executive power is vested in a President, who, together with the Vice- President, is chosen for four years, by electors from all the States. The principal subordinate officers of the executive department are the Secretaries of State, of the Treasury, of War, and of the Navy, the Postmaster-General, and the Attor ney-General. The President must be a native-born citizen, or have been a citizen at the adoption of the constitution, of 35 years of age, and have resided in the United States 14 years. The present constitution of the United States was adopted in 1739, and has since been amended. It secures to the people the grand principles of freedom, liberty of conscience in matters of religion, liberty of the press, trial by jury, and the right of choosing and being chosen to office. The principal executive officers are the Secretaries of State, of the Treasury, of War, and of the Navy, the Postmaster General, and the Attorney General. They are removable at the will of the President, and, with the Vice-President, form the cabinet. The Department of State was created in 1789. The Secretary conducts the negotiations with foreign powers, and corresponds with the public ministers of the United States abroad, and with those of foreign states near the United States. He has the charge of the United States. seal, preserves the originals of laws and treaties, and of the public correspondence growing out of the intercourse between the United States and foreign nations ; he grants passports to American citizens visiting foreign countries, has the control of the patent office, and preserves the evidence of copy-rights. There are attached to the Department of State, a Diplo matic Bureau, a Consular Bureau, a Home Bureau, and the Patent Office. The Treasury Department was created in 1789. The Secretary superintends the fiscal concerns of the government; he is required to report to Congress annu ally the state of the finances, and recommends such measures as he thinks proper for improving the condition of the revenue. The Treasury Department comprises the offices of the Secretary, four Controllers, ten Auditors, the Register, the Trea surer, the Solicitor of the Treasury, and the Land Office. As there is at present no direct taxation by the general government, the revenue has arisen chiefly from the customs on imports, and from the sale of the public 27 10 UNITED STATES. lands. By these means the national government was enabled, January 1st, 1837, not only to complete the payment of the public debt contracted during two wars with Great Britain; but, after reserving $5,000,000, they were able to distribute to the States the sum of $37,468,859,. which, by an act of June 23d, 1836, was deposited with them according to the number of their electoral votes, liable to be recalled in case of necessity, but which will probably never be recalled. The great expense of the Indian war in Florida, and the diminution of the customs in consequence of commercial embarrassments, caused the expenses of the govern ment temporarily to exceed the revenue ; so that a small debt was contracted, amounting, on December 1st, 1844, to $23,850,673.03. The public lands have recently been a great source of revenue. These lands have been ceded to the United States by the new States, or have been derived from the purchase of Louisiana in 1803, and of Florida in 1819. They are con sidered as belonging to the native tribes of Indians who inhabit them, until the title has been regularly extinguished by purchase and treaty. When this is done, they are surveyed, and sold at $1.25 the acre, as the lowest price. This source of revenue is much less considerable than formerly. In 1836, it amounted to the large sum of $25,167,000; but it has now diminished to less than $3,000,000 annually. The law for the distribution of the proceeds among the States has been repealed. The revenue of the United States for the year ending July 1st, 1844, amounted, with a balance in the treasury at the commencement of the year, to $40,816,207.58, and the expenditure to $32,958,827.94; leaving a balance in the treasury, on the 1st of July, 1844, of $7,857,379.61. The United States have 272,645,356 acres of public land surveyed and unsold, and much more which is not surveyed. The mint of the United States was established at Philadelphia in 1793; and, in 1838, branches were established at Charlotte, N. C., at Dahlonega, Ga., and at New Orleans, La. At the mint in Philadelphia, the whole coinage, from the commencement to the end of the year 1842, amounted to 255,087,171 pieces, with a value of $85,873,052 ; at the branch of Charlotte, 162,118 pieces, with a value of $666,030 ; at the branch of Dahlonega, 178,534 pieces, with a value of $827,- 638 ; at the branch of New Orleans, 14,179,656 pieces, with a value of $3,155,443 ; making a total of 269,607,479 pieces, with a total value of $90,522,163. On June 30th, 1844, there were 14,103 post-offices in the United States; the amount of transportation during the previous year was 35,409,624 miles, at a cost of $2,938,551. The expenditure for the year was $4,296,867.70; gross amount of revenue, $4,237,285.83. The General Post-Office is under the superintendence of the Postmaster-General, who has the appointment of the postmasters through out the country, and the power of making contracts for carrying the mail. The War Department was created in 1789. To this department belongs the direction and government of the army of the United States, the erection of forti fications, the execution of topographical surveys, and the superintendence of Indian affairs. Attached to it are a Bureau of Indian Affairs, Pension Bureau, Head- Quarters of the Army, Quarter-Master's Bureau, Subsistence Bureau, General Subsistence, Pay Bureau, Medical and Surgical Bureau, Engineer Bureau, Topo graphical Bureau, and Ordnance Bureau. The Army of the United States consisted, in 1844, of 2 regiments of dragoons, 4 of artillery, and 8 regiments of infantry, containing, at the end of the year 1844, 8,616 men, viz., dragoons 1,298, artillery 2,340, infantry 4,456; the whole being under the command of one major-general, and two brigadier-generals. The office of the Secretary of the Navy was created in 1798. The Department consists of a Bureau of Docks and Navy Yards, of Ordnance and Hydrography, of Construction, Repairs and Equipments, of Provisions and Clothing, and of Medicines and Surgical Instruments. The Navy of the United States, though on a small scale, acquired great repu tation during the last three years' war, when the American ships successfully encountered those of the mistress of the ocean. Much has since been done, both in enlarging the number of vessels, and extending and constructing suitable dock yards ; but the naval force is not considered adequate to the exigencies of the UNITED STATES. 11 country. In the year 1844 it consisted of 6 ships of the line, 1 razee, 14 frigates, 21 sloops of war, 16 brigs and schooners, 3 store-ships, and 8 steamers, afloat. There are on the stocks, in an unfinished state, 4 ships of the line, 3 frigates, 1 store-ship, an iron steamer at Pittsburg, and one at the navy-yard at Washington, to be used as a water-tank. Total, 78. There are eight navy-yards belonging to the United States, viz. : at Ports mouth, N. H.; at Charlestown, in Boston harbour; at Brooklyn, on Wallabout Bay, opposite New York; at Philadelphia; at Washington City; at Gospoit, opposite Norfolk, Va. ; at Pensacola, Fl. ; and at Memphis, Ten., on the Mis sissippi river: the latter is not yet completed. There are graving or dry-docks at Charlestown and Gosport, and a third is erecting at Brooklyn. In its commerce, the United States is the second country on the globe, being inferior only to Great Britain. In 1840, the capital invested in foreign trade, by importing and commission merchants, was $119,295,367; in domestic retail dry- goods and other stores, $250,301,799 ; in the fisheries, $16,429,620. The regis tered tonnage of the United States, for the year ending September 30th, 1842, was 975,358; the enrolled and licensed tonnage was 1,045,753; and, of fishing ves sels, 71,278; making a total of 2,092,390. Of the registered and enrolled ton nage, there were employed in the whale fishery, 157,612 tons. The value of the imports into the United States for the year 1844, was $108,434,702. The value of the exports for the same period, was $111,128,278 ; of which $100,183,497 was domestic produce. The United States are chiefly an agricultural people, to which they are led by the extent of their territory, and the fertility of the soil ; and the agricultural resources of the nation are becoming yearly more and more developed. The 'bllowing agricultural statistics are derived from the census of the United States or 1840: There were 4,335,699 horses and mules; 14,971,586 neat cattle; 19,311,374 sheep ; 26,301,293 swine ; poultry was raised to the value of $9,344, 110. There were produced, 84,823,272 bushels of wheat; 7,291,743 of buck wheat; 378,531,875 of Indian corn; 18,645,567 of rye; 4,161,504 of bailey ; 123,071,341 of oats; 108,298,060 of potatoes; 35,802,114 pounds of wool; 219,163,319 of tobacco; 80,841,422 of rice; 790,479,270 of cotton ; 155,100,809 f sugar ; 1,238,502 of hops ; 622,303 of wax ; 61,552 of silk cocoons ; 10,248,108 tons of hay ; 95,251 of hemp and flax. There were 29^ bushels of edible grains, xclusive of potatoes, to every individual of its population. The products of the iairy were valued at $33,787,008 ; of the orchard, at $7,256,904 ; of lumber, at |>12,943,507. And there were also made, 124,734 gallons of wine. The manufactures of the United States, though not equal to its agriculture and ;ommeree, and of recent origin, have already risen to great respectability. A arge amount of property has been invested in them, machinery has been exten sively introduced, and they supply a great amount of articles for home consump tion, and, already, considerable for exportation. No country in the world can compete with the United States in the article of coarse cotton goods, neither as ,o quality nor price. Cottons which, in 1812, were worth 25 cents a-yard, can now be bought, of a better quality, for 8 cents. And, even in the finer quality )f goods, great advancement has been made. It is only since the peace of 1815 hat manufactures have made great progess, though they were commenced in Rhode island many years before, and had made some advances. It was the policy of ,he British government, before the revolution, to discourage American manufac- ures, and thus to keep the country in a state of great dependence. But that has rone by ; and, should events ever cut off a supply of British manufactures, the ountry would be able to do without them. Unless Great Britain and other coun tries shall consent, in a fair way, to receive American bread-stuffs in exchange or their manufactures, the Americans will be compelled to become their own manufacturers, and they will thus secure their substantial independence. Home-made or family goods were produced, in the year 1840, to the amount of 129,0-23,380. There were 1240 cotton factories, with 2,284,631 spindles, which employed 72,119 persons, and produced articles to the amount of $46,350,453, with i capital of $51,102,359. 1420 woollen manufactories employed 21,342 persons, 13* ~"*~" 12 UNITED STATES. producing goods to the amount of $20,696,999, with a capital of $15,765,124 ; 426 paper-mills employed a capital of $4,745,239 ; hats and caps were manufactured to the amount of $8,704,342, and straw bonnets to the amount of $1,476,504; 20,018 persons were employed in tanneries, with a capital of $15,650,929 ; sad dleries, and other manufactories of leather, employed a capital of $12,881,262; carriages and wagons employed 21,994 persons, and produced to the amount of $10,897,887, with a capital of $5,551,632; mills of various kinds employed 60,788 persons, and produced to the amount of $76,545,246, with a capital of $65,858,470; vessels were built to the amount of $7,016,094; furniture was made by 18,003 persons, and employed a capital of $6,989,971. There were 1552 printing-offices, 447 binderies, 138 daily, 125 semi-weekly or tri-weekly, and 1141 weekly newspapers, and 227 periodicals; the whole employing 11,523 persons, and a capital of $5,874,815. Iron manufactures employed a capital of $20,432,131, and 30,497 persons; glass manufactures employed 3236 persons, and a capital of $2,084,100, producing articles to the amount of $2,890,293. The anthracite coal employed a capital of $4,355,602, and 3043 persons ; bituminous coal, a capital of $1,868,862, and 3768 persons ; and lead, a capital of $1,346,756, and 1017 persons. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $267,726,579. For a more particular account of the manufactures, see the articles on the respective States. The whale, cod, mackerel and other fisheries have long been an interest of great national importance. They are carried on chiefly from the New England States, and in New England ships. The whale-fishery is prosecuted in the Atlantic ocean, chiefly south of the line, for the right or black whale ; and in the Southern, Indian, and Pacific oceans, for the spermaceti whale. In the year 1841, 600 ves sels, of 193,000 tons, were employed in this business; and, in the course of the same year, spermaceti and whale oil was brought home, of the value of about $7,400,000. Seal oil and furs are also obtained in the Antarctic seas by these adventurous seamen. The fishery is carried on chiefly from the ports of Nan- tucket and New Bedford, and also, but on a less scale, from New London, Sag Harbour, Warren, Bristol, Hudson, &c. About 16,000 men are engaged in it, and the seamen are paid, not by fixed wages, but by a certain share in the profits of the voyage. Those in the Pacific and Southern oceans are generally absent from two to three years at a time. The cod-fishery is pursued on the banks and coasts of Newfoundland, and on the Labrador coasts. It employs many thousands of tons of small craft, some of which make several trips a year ; those on the coast-fisheries generally remain longer. The mackerel-fishery also employs a great amount of shipping. In 1840 the fisheries produced 773,967 quintals of smoked or dried fish, and 472,359A barrels of pickled fish. No part of the world presents such an extensive river commerce. Steam-ves sels, first introduced in America on the Hudson river, ply on all the principal streams; and upwards of 100,000 tons of this species of craft belongs to the United States, almost the whole of which is on the interior waters. The Missis sippi and its tributaries, comprising alone an extent of 8000 miles, is traversed by 250 steamboats. Neither the States nor individuals have been slow in improving and extending these natural advantages ; and the spirit with which they have undertaken, and the perseverance they have shown in executing the most magni ficent plans, have shed a lustre on the American name. The great land-locked bays of the coast have been connected by a chain of canals, affording a safe internal water-route from Narragansett Bay to Albemarle Sound. The eastern and western waters have been united by several channels, which either turn the Alleghanies, or surmount their summits. The waters of the lakes and the Mis sissippi have been connected at various points, and the obstacles in the navigation of the most important rivers have been overcome by removing the bars or ledges which obstructed their channels, or by side-cuts, locks, and dams. The whole length of this artificial navigation is not less than 4000 miles ; all of which, with one or two trifling exceptions, has been executed in the short space of twenty-five years. These great works have already given fresh life to manufactures, and encouraged the establishment of new ones; invigorated, and in many places UNITED STATES. 13 created, internal trade; promoted agriculture, which requires a cheap and easy transportation for the bulky articles which it consumes and produces; and deve loped, in an astonishing degree, the mining industry of the country. The Americans have equally surpassed all other people in the number and extent of their rail-roads, having, in about fifteen years, constructed 4500 miles of these artificial levels, over which carriages are propelled by locomotive steam- engines at the rate of from 20 to 30 miles an hour. Although this contrivance is less adapted than canals to the conveyance of bulky articles, yet it possesses some advantages over that mode of transport, such as that of not being interrupted by ice, and of being suited to certain localities in which, artificial water commu nication would be impracticable. The people of the United States, from the first settlement of the country, have been very attentive to the cause of popular education, and this cause is continually gaining a stronger 'hold on the community. It is recommended by all the gover nors of the States, in their annual messages to their respective Legislatures. Most of the older States have respectable funds devoted to the support of common schools, and, in the new States, the general government have provided funds for the support of schools, by setting apart one 36th section in each township, con taining each one square mile, for the purposes of common education. The amount of land already set apart for educational purposes, east of the Mississippi, is com puted to amount to 8,000,000 of acres. The same spirit is also extending west of the Mississippi, and has penetrated even to the Indian tribes ; and the Choctaw nation has applied $18,000 per annum out of the moneys which they receive from the United States, to the support of schools. Knowledge and virtue are regarded as the main pillars of the republic. In less than twenty years from the landing at the rock of Plymouth, Cambridge College was founded," and numerous similar institutions have been successively established, from that day to this. The following are among the principal colleges and universities in the country, with the date of their establishment: Cambridge College, now Harvard Univer sity, in 1638; Yale College, at New Haven, in 1700; Nassau Hall, or College of New Jersey, at Princeton, in 1746; Brown University, at Providence, in 1764; Dartmouth College, at Hanover, New Hampshire, 1769; the University of North Carolina, at Chapel Hill, in 1739; Bowdoin College, at Brunswick, Maine, ia 1794 : and, among the more recent institutions, the University of Nash ville, Tennessee, in 1806 ; the University of Virginia, at Charlottesville, in 1819 ; Amherst College, at Amherst, Massachusetts, in 1821 ; and many others. Per haps, if fewer institutions had been chartered, and they had been more liberally endowed, the beneficial results would have been greater, though the number edu cated would probably have been less. According to the eensus of 1840, there were in the United States 173 colleges, or universities, with 16,233 students ; 3242 academies, with 164,159 students; 47,209 common and primary schools, with ! ,845,244 scholars. In the above Bnumeration, theological and medical schools, where they are separate from col- eges, are ranked among universities and colleges. In the academies, the ancient and modern languages, grammar, history, logic, rhetoric, natural and moral phi- 'osophy, &c., are taught. The common schools are extensively provided with ibraries, and appropriate apparatus for illustrating the sciences taught in them. There are 38 theological seminaries, belonging to different denominations, designed to succeed a collegiate course; some of which are connected with col- 'eges. The principal of them are the theological seminary at Andover, Mass., Congregational; the theological seminary at Princeton, Presbyterian ; the theo- ogical seminary at Auburn, Presbyterian ; the theological seminary of the Epis copal Church, New York, Protestant Episcopal ; the theological institution at Newtown, Massachusetts, Baptist; and the theological department* of Yale College and Harvard University. There are eight law schools in different parts of the country. The earliest nstitution of this kind was founded in 1798, by the Hon. Tapping Reeve, and taught afterward by him in connection with the Hon. James Gould, both judges 14 UNITED STATES. of the Supreme Court of Connecticut. At this institution, many of the principal civilians in the United States have been educated. It is now discontinued. There are 28 medical schools, some .of them connected with colleges. The principal are the medical departments of the University of Pennsylvania ; of Harvard University; of Yale College; of Dartmouth College; of Transylvania University; of the University of Maryland, at Baltimore; of the University of New York; the College of Surgeons and Physicians, New York; the Louisville Medical Institution ; the Vermont Academy of Medicine, at Castleton, &c. There is no established church in the United States, religion being left to the voluntary choice of the people. No sect is favoured by the laws beyond another, it being an essential principle in the National and State governments, that legisla tion may of right interfere in the concerns of public worship only so far as to pro tect every individual in the unmolested exercise of that of his choice. Nor is any legislative provision made for the support of religion, except that, in Massachu setts, the Legislature is enjeined to require, and in New Hampshire is empowered to authorize, the several towns and parishes to make adequate provision, at their own expense, for the support of protestant ministers. The same was the case in Connecticut until 1818, when it was abolished by the new constitution. But, in all the other States, the support of religion is left entirely to the voluntary zeal of its professors. The numbers of established churches, or congregations, are estimated at over 20,000, and the ministers at about 25,000. The Baptists are the most numerous denomination. The Methodists are reckoned as second in numerical amount ; and. the Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, Uni- versalists and Lutherans, probably rank, in point of numbers, in the order in which they are mentioned. Other sects, respectable in amount of numbers, are the Dutch Reformed, Christians, Unitarians, Friends or Quakers, Moravians, &c. In fact, almost all the sects of Christianity are represented in our country. To the State governments is committed that branch of legislation which relates to the regulation of local concerns. These bodies make and alter the laws which regard property and private rights, appoint judges and civil officers, impose taxes for State purposes, and exercise all other rights and powers not vested in the federal government by positive enactment. They are, in their composition, very similar to the federal government. The legislature consists always of two branches, both of which are returned by the same electors ; and these electors may be said to comprise the whole adult white population, the usual qualifications being citizenship, with one or two years' residence, and payment of taxes. There are no early enumerations of the population on which much reliance can be placed ; but, in 1753, the number was estimated at 1,051,000. A regular decennial census, taken since 1790, gave, at that period, 3,929,827; in 1800, 5,305,925 ; in 1810, 7,239,814 ; in 1820, 9,638,131. It is most interesting to con sider^ as the immensity of unoccupied land leaves full scope for this power of multiplication, how vast the future numbers may be with which this region will be peopled, and which will render it much the greatest state that ever existed in ancient or modern times. It is calculated, upon good grounds, that in a century it will contain 160,000,000; and still, being only half so densely peopled as Britain or France, leave ample scope for future increase* The Americans, should they continue united, would then become the greatest nation in the world, and the most powerful States of Europe would rank as secondary to them. The population, exclusive of the Indians, whose numbers are not comprised in the above statements, consists of three classes whites, free coloured persons, and slaves whose relative proportions at six different periods are here given : Whites* Slaves. Free coloured. 1790 3,172,464 . , 697,897 59,465 1800 4,304,489 893,041 108,395 1810 5,862,004 1,191,364 186,446 1820 7,861,710 1,538,038 232,524 1830 10,526,248 2,009,043 319,599 1840 14,189,705 2,487,355 386,293 UNITED STATES. 15 In regard to these numbers, it is to be observed, that in the census of 1790 are not included the inhabitants of the Mississippi and North-west Territories, esti mated at about 12,000 ; and that, between 1800 and 1810, Louisiana was acquired with about 50,000 inhabitants ; and 39,000 Africans were brought into the coun try. The following statement shows the relative rate of increase of the whole population, and of each of the three classes, in the three periods from 1810 to 1820, from 1820 to 1830, and from 1830 to 1840 : 1810-1820. 1820-1830. 1830-1840. Increase of whole population .... 33.3 per ct 33.4 per ct 30 per ct. Whites Slaves Free Blacks . , ,.34 .28.6.." .. .24.8.." ... .33.9.." .. .30.6.. " .. .37.4.. " .. .35 .21 ' .23.75' Blacks 28.5.. " 31.5.. " 23 Maine . N. H... Verm't Mass... R. I.... Conn. .. N. York N. Jer. Penn'a Del Maryrd B. ofC. Virginia N. Car. S. Car. Georgia Florida Alab'ma Miss'ppi Louis' a Ten 'see Kent'y Ohio . . . Indiana Illinois . Missouri Micbg'n Arkan's Iowa ... Wis. T. U. S. N. Total. 151,719 183,762 154,465 423,245 251,002 586,786 211,949 602,365 64,2/3 341,548 14,093 880,200 478,103 345,591 162,101 8,850 105,602 220,955 45,365 4,875 381 951 20,343 12,422 1,706 6,153 105,G35 3,244 345,796 133,296 146,151 3,489 13,584 40,343 135 Total. 288,705 214,360 217,713 472,040 77,031 262,042, 959,949 249,555 810,091 72,674 380,546 24,023 974,622. 555,500 415,115 252,433 40,352 76,556 261,727 406,511 230,760 24,520 12,282 20,845 4,762 M3 310 15,107 10,851 795 4,177 111,502 5,395 392,518 196,365 105,218 17,088 34,660 44,535 80,561 "'237 168 3,011 298,335 244,161 235,764 83,059 275,202 1,372,812 277,575 1,049,458 72,749 407,350 33,036 1,065,379 638,829 502,741 340,987 127,901 75,448 153,407 422,813 564,317 581,434 147,178 55,211 66,586 8,896 14,273 Totals. . 5,305,925j 893.041 7,239,8141,191,364 9.638,131 1,538,038] 12,866.020 2,009,043 17,069,4532.487,355 41,879 32,814 69,064 80,107 126,732 '"196 917 10,222 1,61' 399,955 280,652 610,408 97,199 297,665 10,088 1,918,608 7,557 211 4,509 107,398 6,377 425,15.' 205,017 258,475 149,656 1,348,238 76.748 447,040 39,834 1,211,405 737,987 581,185 516,823 34,730 309,527 136,621 215,739 681,904 687,917 937,903 343,031 157,445 140,455 30,388 14 25 76 2,254 403 3,292 102,994 6,119 469,75' 247,601 315,401 217,531 1.5,501 117,549 65,659 109,588 141,603 165,213 25,081 4,576 501,973 284,574 291,948 737,699 108,830 309,978 2,428,921 373,306 1,724,033 78,085 470,019 43,712 1,239,797 753,419 594,398 691,392 54,477 590,756 375,651 352,411 829,210 779,828 1,519 46 685,866 476,183 383,702 212,267 97,574 43,112 30,945 6,100 5 17 4 674 64 2605 89J37 4,694 448,987 245,817 327,036 280,944 25,717 253,532 195,211 168,452 183,059 182,258 3 3 331 58,240 19,935 Ages, fyc. of the different Classes of the Population in 1840. FREE WHITE POPULATION. eOLOriRED POPULATION. Under 5 years of age Of 5 to - 10 to 15 to 20 to 30 to 40 to 50 to tifi to 70 to 80 to 1,270,743 1,203,319 1,0-24,050 897,530 756,1015 1,322.453 860,452 536,606 314,528 174,238 80,067 21.677 2,508 476 Totals 7,249.276 6,939,942 Free Male*. Free Females. Male Slave*. Fenanl* Blares. 9H6.940 836,630 792,223 1,253,490 77!,120 02,183 304,852 173,329 80,565 23,962 3,2:12 316 Under 10 Of 10 to 24. . 24 to 36. . 36 to 55.. 55 to 100. . Upwards of 100 Totals... 56,284 52,805 35,321 28,274 13,513 284 186.457 55,062 56,592 41,682 30,371 15,753 362 199,778 422,584 235,380 145,260 51,331 750 1,246,408 1,240,705 Whites....... Blacks...,.,. Totals. . Revolutionary Whites over j U >e and IdioU. Blind. Deaf and Dumb. .14,508 5,024 6,682 . 2,926 ..,..,,.1,892.,,..... 977 , .17,434 6,916 7,659 Oand military pensioners 20,797 unable to read and write 549,693 16 UNITED STATES. The whole number of aborigines existing within the territorial jurisdiction of the United States, was estimated in 1844 at 335,350; of whom perhaps 50,000 reside in the Oregon territory, west of the Rocky Mountains, and the residue east of that region. Of those on the Atlantic side of the Mississippi river, 85,348 have removed from its eastern to its western bank, and settled in the Western or Indian territory, assigned to them by the government of the United States ; and 31,587 are still east of that stream. Of the Indians residing east of the Rocky Mountains and west of the Mississippi, 168,290 are indigenous to that region, nowise under the control of our government : of these, the principal aie the Sioux, Pawnees, Camanches, Minatarees, Blackfeet, Crows, Gros Venires, and Assini- boines. The most humane exertions have constantly been in operation, on the part of the general government, to preserve the race from extinction, by severe provisions to prevent their obtaining ardent spirits, and by unwearied efforts to train them to the arts and agriculture, and to impart to them the blessings of edu cation and Christianity. Under the system adopted by the government, agents and sub-agents, interpreters and mechanics, are employed among the different Indian tribes, to carry these purposes into effect; and the President is authorized to cause the stores of the licensed traders to be searched, and, if ardent spirits are found among the articles for sale, the whole goods are forfeited to the govern ment. The whole number of Indian schools established among them, partly by chari table associations of the different religious denominations, and partly by pecuniary aid from the government, is 78. The sum of $10,000 was appropriated in 1844, by the U. S. government, to assist in their maintenance. Of the foregoing schools, 63 were reported in 1844, with 2667 scholars and 100 teachers, including those in the Spencer academy and Fort Coffee academy, in the Choctaw nation; the first of these contained 3 teachers and 110 pupils, and the latter, 1 teacher and 36 pupils. Two of the schools, at Fort Leavenworth are manual labour schools, one of which, under the direction of the Methodists, is the largest of all the Indian schools, containing 159 scholars. The territory of the confederacy is at present divided into twenty-eight States, one Territory, and one Federal District, which contains the seat of government. This does not include the extensive tract assigned to the Indians, called the West ern Territory ; the region west of the Missouri and north of the Platte ; and the residue of the late Iowa Territory, of which the State of Iowa now forms a part; and that west of the Rocky Mountains, in which the white population is yet of small amount, and which has received no political organization. The States are divided, for municipal purposes, into sections, styled counties ; except in South Carolina, where they are called districts; and in Louisiana, where they are called parishes. In the States of New England, in New York, Pennsylvania New Jersey, Ohio, Indiana and Michigan, the counties are subdivided into town ships (in some States these are called towns), and in Delaware into hundreds. THE EASTERN, OR NEW ENGLAND STATES. NEW ENGLAND comprises the six States situated east of the Hudson, viz., Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut. The inhabitants are almost exclusively of unmixed English origin, and, though never united as a political whole, they haVe at different periods been connected for their common interests. From the earliest settlement of their country, they have enjoyed peculiar advantages for literary and religious instruction, and, trained to habits of industry, economy, and enterprise, by the circumstances of their peculiar situation, as well as by the dangers of prolonged wars, they present traits of character which are considered as remarkable abroad, as they are common at home. The surface of the country is infinitely varied. In the interior it is mountain ous, with fertile valleys between. The land along the sea-shora presents in ge neral an irregular surface, consisting of hills and ridges, with flats of moderate extent. The inland portion towards the mountains presents an almost constant sue- UNITED STATES, 17 cession of short hills and narrow valleys. There are no extensive plains through out the whole of New England. Much of the soil is good, yet in general it re quires diligent cultivation, and compels the farmer to use great industry to pro cure tolerable crops; and although it well repays the labour of the husbandman, it is on the whole less fruitful than many other parts of the United States. Most of the* New England States are largely engaged in manufactures. The different establishments of various kinds are too numerous to specify. The cotton factories, in particular, employ a vast number of hands and a great amount of capital. A proof of the result of these great establishments may be found in the fact that twenty-five years ago the chief cottons of the United States were im ported from India. New England now sends her manufactured cottons there, and finds the trade profitable. Since the manufacturing system has prevailed, this part of the Union has rapidly increased in population and business. The New Englanders are extensively engaged in the Bank and whale fisheries. This pursuit employs many thousands of hands, furnishes one of the most impor tant items in this section of the United States, and trains vast numbers of the most experienced and intrepid mariners in the world. An active commerce is carried on from the ports of New England with all parts of the world ; their ships spread their sails in every sea, and her lumber manufactures and the produce of her fisheries are extensively exported. Almost every village carries on some handicraft, and the farmer often employs the long winter evenings in some gainful task. Thus are produced many little obje'cts which although in appearance of small value, yet in the aggregate constitute a source of considerable wealth to the community, and are produced to such an ex tent as almost to rival in value the products of the large manufacturing establish ments. From the first settlement of the country, the inhabitants of New England have been a religious people. The entire freedom of opinion enjoyed by them has led to a diversity of religious denominations. In almost every town and village are several places of public worship belonging to the different sects common in the country, among which are Congregationalists, Baptists, Episcopalians, Methodists, Unitarians, &c.. It is disreputable for a man to have no religious belief, and there are few who do not give their support to some one mode of religious worship. The sabbath is strictly observed, and the people generally attend public worship twice during the day. Education is more universal here than in any part of the world. It is exceed ingly hard to find persons of mature age who have not been instructed in the common branches of school learning. Institutions of learning and education were established at an early period by the first settlers of New England, some of which at the present day are the most respectable and efficient in the Union. A large part of the distinguished men of the United States have been educated at Har vard and Yale colleges, and though there are many similar institutions in other States, still many students from the south and west are annually taught in the colleges of New England. The population of New England has been gradually increasing. In 1700 it was about 120,000, and in 1755 was estimated at 345,000, not including the troops at that time in the provinces. The amount in 1820 was 1,659,854; in 1830, 1,954,609; and, in 1840, 2,235,002; of which number 23 were slaves. STATE OF MAINE. MAINE is the most northern and 'eastern of the United States. Previous to the year 1820, it formed a part of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, at which period it was received into the Union as an independent State. Maine is in length from north to south about 216 miles, and from east to west 162 ; the area is differ ently estimated at from 32,000 to 35,000 square miles. On the sea-coast, the country is generally level ; at some distance in the interior, hilly ; and in the cen tral parts of the State are many mountains of considerable elevation. "" 28 18 UNITED STATES. The principal rivers are the St. Johns, with its branches, the Allagash, Wal- loostook, and the Aroostook; with the Penobscot, Kennebec, Androscoggin, Saco, Pleasant, Damariscotta, and Union rivers. The sea-coast of Maine is remarkably indented with bays and inlets, which afford great facilities for navigation and commerce. The principal are Casco, Penobscot, Frenchman's, Englishman's, Machias, and Passamaquoddy Bays. The lakes are so numerous, that it is estimated one-sixth of the surface of the State consists of water, and indeed they form one of the characteristic features of the country. Some of them are remarkable for their picturesque beauties, and many of them will no doubt be useful mediums of communication when their vicinity is more populous. The most noted are Moosehead, Umbagog, Sebago, the Schoodic Lakes, and Lake Chesuncook. The soil on the coast is various, and of but moderate fertility : in the interior, most of the land is more productive, and some of it, especially on the Kennebec and Penobscot river, is fertile, and well adapted to agriculture and grazing. One of the most important productions of this State is white-pine timber, which is found chiefly on the Upper Kennebec and Penobscot rivers, and. also on the Alla gash. As there is no other tract of country yielding this lumber to any considera ble extent in the Atlantic States, the lands producing it have lately much advanced in price. The population in 1790 was 96,540; in 1800, 151,719; in 1810, 228,705; in 1820, 298,335 ; in 1830, 399,955 ; and in 1840, 501,793. Of these, 252,989 were white males, and 247,449 white females ; 720 were coloured males, and 635 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 101,630; in commerce, 2921; in manufac tures and trades, 21,879; in navigating the ocean, 10,091 ; in the learned profes sions, 1889. According to the census of 1840, there were in the State 59,208 horses or mules ; 227,255 neat cattle; 649,264 sheep; 117,386 swine. There were produced, 248,166 bushels of wheat; 137,941 of rye; 950,528 of Indian corn; 355,161 of barley ; 1,076,409 of oats ; 10,392,380 of potatoes ; and 601,358 tons of hay. The products of the dairy amounted to $1,496,902, and of lumber to $1,808,683. The exports of Maine, for the year ending September 1841, were $1,078,633, and the imports $700,961. There were, in 1840, 70 commercial and 14 commis sion houses in foreign trade, employing a capital of $1,646,926 ; 2220 retail dry-goods and other stores, with a capital of $3,973,593 ; 2068 persons employed in the lumber trade, with a capital of $305,850. The manufactures of Maine are considerable. Home-made or family manufac tures amounted, in 1840, to $804,397; there were 24 woollen manufactories, which employed 532 individuals, producing goods to the amount of $412,366, with a capital of $316,105; 6 cotton manufactories produced goods to the amount of $970,397, with a capital of $1,398,000. Flouring, grist, saw and other mills, employed 3630 persons, and produced to the amount of $3,161,592, with a capital of $2,900,565. Ships were built to the amount of $1,884,902; 3610 persons were employed in the fisheries, with a capital of $526,957. Total amount of capital employed in manufactures, $7,147,224. The principal colleges in Maine are Bowdoin, at Brunswick, founded in 1794 ; Waterville College, at Waterville, founded 1820; Bangor Theological Seminary, at Bangor, founded 1816; Wesleyan Seminary, at Readfield, founded 1822. These institutions had, in 1840, 266 students. There were in the State 86 acade mies, with 8477 students; 3385 common and primary schools, with 164,477 scholars. There were 3241 persons, over twenty years of age, who could neither read nor write. 1 The principal religious denominations are the Methodists, Baptists, and Con- gregationalists. The Baptists had, in 1836, 222 churches, 145 ordained minis ters, and 15,000 communicants; the Methodists, 115 travelling preachers, and 15,493 communicants; the Congregationalists, 161 churches, 119 ministers, and 12,370 communicants. There are also some Free-will Baptists, Friends, Episco palians, Unitarians, Universalists, and Roman Catholics. The chief works of internal improvement are the Cumberland and Oxford MAINE. 19 Canal, completed in 1829, 20 miles long; Bangor and Orono Railroad, com pleted in 1836, 10 miles long ; the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth Rail-road, incorporated in 1837. This work, in connection with the Eastern Rail-road, con nects Boston with Portland; it was completed in 1842. Several other lines of rail-roads are contemplated, the most important of which is a rail-road from Port land to Quebec. The city of Portland is the largest and most important place in the State. It is beautifully situated on Casco Bay, is well laid out and handsomely built, and has a capacious harbour, which is defended by two forts. Here ate six banks, sixteen churches, a court-house, city hall, custom-house, jail, athenaeum, with a public library containing 5000 volumes. The population, in 1840, was 15,218. The city of Bangor, the most important place on the Penobscot, has trebled its population since 1830; in 1840 it contained 8627 inhabitants. From 300 to 400 million feet of lumber are said to be annually exported from this place. Augusta, the capital of the State, occupies both sides of the Kennebec river, 50 miles from its mouth : it contains a handsome State-house of granite, and an United States Arsenal. Below Augusta are Hallowell and Gardiner, both flourish ing towns; and at the head of ship navigation, and about 15 miles from the sea, is Bath, noted for its ship-building. From Thomaston is exported large quantities of lime, marble, and granite. Some of the other principal towns in Maine, are Eastport, Machias, Calais, Orono, Belfast, Brunswick, Saco, and York. STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. THIS State is bounded on the north by Lower Canada; on the east, by Maine and the Atlantic Ocean ; south by Massachushetts ; and west by Vermont. It is n length, from north to south, about 160 miles; and from east to west, 70 is about the average breadth. It is, in area, 8500 square miles. The sea-coast of his State, from Piscataqua Harbor to the south boundary, is but 18 miles in sxtent. The country on the coast is level : in the interior, the surface is greatly diversi fied by hills and valleys, and contains several mountains of considerable height ; among which are the White Mountains, the most elevated of any in the New England States. The other considerable elevations are, Moosehillock, Monad- nock, Kearsarge, Sunipee, Ossipee, &c. The White Mountains are distinguished by the names of Washington, Frank- in, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Pleasant. Mount Washington is 5,428 feet in height. They are covered with snow ten months in the year, ^nd are often seen from a great distance at sea, and frequently before any intermediate and, although they are at least 65 miles in the nearest direction from the coast. I'he wild and sublime character of their scenery causes them to be annually visited by numerous travellers. The ascent to their summits is attended with onsiderable fatigue, but has been surmounted in a few instances by ladies. The view is rendered uncommonly grand and picturesque by the magnitude of the levation, the extent and variety of the surrounding scenery, and, above all, by the huge and desolate piles of rocks extending to a great distance in every direc tion. In the western pass of these mountains, there is a remarkable gap, called he Notch, which is esteemed one of the grandest natural curiosities in the United States. .To an admirer of the wonders of nature, the passage through the Notch, and the views from the summit, afford a rich repast. Though inferior to the Andes or the Alps in elevation, yet they display the grandest mountain scenery, surpassing everything of the kind to be 'seen elsewhere in this country. The principal rivers of New England have their origin, either wholly or in part, in this State. These are, the Connecticut, Merrimack, Androscoggin, Saco, and Piscataqua. The other most considerable streams are, the Upper and Lower Amonoosuck, Sugar River, Ashuelot, Contoocook, Magallaway, and Nashua. The principal lakes are the Winnipiseogee, Umbagog, Ossipee, Sunapee, Squam, and Newfound Lake. ^^^u ----- 20 UNITED STATES. The inhabitants of New Hampshire are principally engaged in agriculture ; the chief products are Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, &c. ; and horses and cattle, beef, pork, butter, cheese, &c., are largely exported. There are some large manufacturing establishments, chiefly in the southern part of the State. The mineral resources of New Hampshire are not great. Copper is found at Franconia, and iron is abundant in Lisbon and Franconia; plumbago or black lead also occurs in several places, particularly at Bristol. A fine-grained granite, which is quarried in many places, affords an excellent building material. The forest affords abundance of excellent timber, and the white pine sometimes attains the height of 200 feet, with a straight trunk six feet and upwards in diameter. About eight miles from the coast are the Isles of Shoals, belonging partly to New Hampshire, and partly to Maine. They lie between Portsmouth and New- buryport, and are hardly more than a cluster of shoals rising above the water. The inhabitants are about 100 in number; they live solely by fishing, and sup ply Portsmouth and the neighbouring towns with fresh fish. The population of New Hampshire, in 1790, was 141,855; in 1800, 183,858; in 1810, 214,460; in 1820,244,161; in 1830,269,328; and in 1840, 284,574. Of these, 139,004 were white males, and 145,032 white females; 248 were coloured males, and 290 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 77,949 ; in commerce, 1379 ; in manufactures and trades, 17,826 ; in navigating the ocean, 455 ; do. lakes, rivers and canals, 198 ; in the learned professions, 1640. The exports for the year 1841 were $10,384, and the imports $73,701. The tonnage entered was 11,129, cleared 3805 tons. In 1840 there were 43,892 horses or mules, 275,562 neat cattle, 617,390 sheep, and 121,671 swine. There were produced, 422,124 bushels of wheat ; 308,148 of rye; 105,103 of buckwheat; 1,162,572 of Indian corn; 121,899 of barley; 1,296,1 14 of oats; and 6,206,606 of potatoes; 1,260,517 pounds of wool; 1,162,368 of sugar; and 496,107 tons of hay. The produce of the dairy was $1,638,543 ; of lumber, $433,217. Home-made or family goods were manufactured to the amount of $538,303. There were 66 woollen manufactories, 152 fulling-mills, and 58 cotton factories. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $9,252,448. The principal literary institution of the State is Dartmouth College, in Hano ver, founded in 1770; to which is attached a flourishing medical department. The Gilmanton Theological Seminary was founded in 1835, under the direction of the Congregationalists. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 433 students. There were in the State 68 academies, with 5799 students ; 2127 common and primary schools, with 82,632 scholars. There were 942 white persons, over twenty years of age, who could neither read nor write. The principal religious denominations are the Congregationalists, Baptists, and Methodists. In 1836, the Congregationalists had 159 churches, 142 ministers, and 18,982 communicants; the Baptists had 90 churches, 64 ordained ministers, and 6505 communicants ; the Free-will Baptists had 100 congregations, and 81 ministers; the Methodists had 75 ministers. Besides these, there are Presbyte rians, Unitarians, Episcopalians, Universalists, and some Roman Catholics, with two societies of Shakers. Portsmouth, the only sea-port, and the largest town in the State, is pleasantly situated on the Piscataqua, three miles from the sea. It has one of the finest harbours in the world, affording 40 feet of water in the channel at low tide, and being easily accessible to vessels of the largest size, and completely landlocked. It is protected by several forts. The tide rises ten feet. The town stands on a peninsular elevation, sloping towards the harbour, and is well built. It contains seven churches, seven banks, the county buildings, &c., and is well supplied with good water brought from the neighbourhood. Two wooden bridges have been built across the Piscataqua, one of which is 1750 feet long. There is here a navy-yard belonging to the United States, situated on Navy Island, on the east side of the river, but within the limits of Maine. Population in 1840, 7887; being 195 less than in 1830. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 21 Concord, the capital of the State, on the west side of the Merrimack river, is handsomely built on two principal streets ; has the State-house and State prison of granite, besides banks, churches, hotels, &c. ; population, 4897. In the south east part of the State, are several towns largely engaged in manufactures ; these are, Dover, Somersworth, Newmarket and Exeter; the latter, besides its mills and manufactures, contains Phillip's Academy, a well-known and respectable semi nary. These are all on navigable rivers, furnishing fine mill-seats, and constant communication with the sea. Nashua, near the south line of the State, contains several large cotton-mills ; population in 1840, 6054. Hanover and Haverhill are towns of between 2000 and 3000 inhabitants each. Amherst and Keene are neat and thriving towns between the Merrimack and Connecticut rivers. Man chester, on the former, is a manufacturing town, with 3235 inhabitants. STATE OF VERMONT. VERMONT is bounded N. by Lower Canada; E. by New Hampshire; S. by Massachusetts ; W. by New York ; from which it is separated, in part, by Lake Champlain. It is 157 miles in length, from north to south ; 90 miles in breadth on the northern, and 40 on the southern boundary ; and contains an area of 10,212 square miles, or 6,535,680 acres. ' The Green Mountains, from which the State derives its name, on account of the evergreens with which they are covered, occupy a large part of the State ; and most of its surface is uneven. The range passes through its whole length, about half-way between Lake Champlain and the Connecticut river. From these mountains, many streams take their rise : the most important are, Otter creek, Onion river, La Moile, and Missisque, which empty into Lake Cham- plain, on the west ; the White, Pasumpsic, and West rivers, which flow into the Connecticut, on the east. The scenery of this State is romantic and beautiful, the air pure and healthful, and the natives industrious, intelligent and hospitable. The soil is fertile, and all sorts of grain suited to the climate are produced in great abundance. Dark, rich, and loamy, it is admirably calculated to sustain drought, and affords the finest pasturage of any State in the Union. Wool is becoming an important product here. Cattle of various kinds are raised, with great facility ; and nowkere is finer beef to be seen, than is fed en the rich white clover pastures of Vermont. The butter and cheese are universally known for their excellence. Vermont is entirely in the interior ;- yet, by the system of internal improvements, the Champlain Canal, and the Lake, vessels and steamboats have brought her ter ritory almost in contiguity with the sea. Part of the trade goes by canal to Albany, and part down the lake to Montreal : much of that which formerly went to Boston and Hartford, is now drawn by the Champlain Canal to New York. This canal has been of incalculable advantage to the State. The population of Vermont in 1790 was 85,589; in 1800, 154,465; in 1810, 217,895; in 1820, 235,764; in 1830, 280,679; in 1840, 291,948. Of these, 146,378 were white males ; 144,840, do. females ; 364 were coloured males ; 366, do. females. Employed in agriculture, 73,150; in commerce, 1303; in manu factures and trades, 13,174; in mining, 77; in navigating the ocean, 41; do. lakes, rivers and canals, 146 ; in the learned professions, 1563. In 1840 there were in the State, 60,402 horses and mules; 384,341 neat cattle ; 1,681,819 eheep; 203,800 swine. There were produced, 495,800 bushels of wheat; 1,119,678 of Indian corn ; 230,993 of rye; 54,781 of barley; 288,416 of buckwheat ; 2,222,548 of oats ; 8,869,751 of potatoes ; 3,699,235 pounds of wool ; 4,647,934 of sugar; 836,739 tons of hay. The products of the dairy amounted to $2,008,737 ; of the orchard, to $213,944 ; of lumber, to $349,939. The exports of this State, for the year ending Sept. 30th, 1841, were $277,987, and the imports were 246,739 ; the tonnage entered was 13,560, and the tonnage cleared of the same amount. Vermont is an agricultural, rather than a commercial and manufacturing State. 22 UNITED STATES. There were, in 1840, 747 retail stores, with a capital of $2.964,060; the lumber trade employed a capital of $45,506 ;. home-made or family goods weffe produced to the amount of $674 ? 548 ; 95 woollen factories and 239 fulling-mills produced articles to the amount of $1,331,953, with a capital of $1,406,950; 7 cotton fac tories, with a capital of $118,000, produced articles to the amount of $113,000. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures in the State, was $4,326,440. There are three colleges in Vermont. The University of Vermont, at Burling ton, was founded in 1791 ; Middlebury College, at Middlebury, was founded in 1800; Norwich University was founded in 1834. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 233 students. There were in the State 46 academies, with 4113 students, and 2402 common and primary schools, with 82,117 scholars. There were in the State 2270 white persons, over twenty years of age, who could neither read nor write. The principal religious denominations are the Congregp.tionalists^Baptists and Methodists. In 1836, the Congregationalists had 186 churches, 114 ministers, and 20,575 communicants ; the Baptists had 125 churches, 78 ministers, and 10,525 communicants; the Methodists had 75 itinerant preachers; the Episcopa lians had one bishop, and 18 ministers. Besides these, there is a considerable number of Universalists and Christians, and a few Unitarians and Roman Catholics. There are 19 banks in the State, with an aggregate capital of $1,325,530, and a circulation of $1,966,812. Vermont has a State debt of about $250,000, about one-half of which was contracted in the, building of the new State-house. The capital of the State is the little town of Montpelier, situated in a wild and rugged region, at the junction of the north and south branches of the Onion river. Here is a handsome State-house of granite, recently erected, together with the public buildings of the county. The population of the town is 3725. West of the mountains are several flourishing towns, which enjoy the advantage of an easy communication with Lake Champlain,and, through it, with the Hudson and St. Lawrence. St. Albans is a neatly built town, on a small bay, with an active and increasing trade, and containing 700 inhabitants. Further south is Burlington, the largest town in the State, and the principal commercial place on the lake. It is pleasantly situated on a gently rising slope, overlooking the lake, and it has an excellent harbour. Here are the county buildings, and the Univer sity of Vermont ; and at the falls of the Onion river there are some manufactories. The population is 4271. The city of Vergennes, with 1017 inhabitants, is acces sible to lake vessels ; and the American squadron on the lake was fitted out here in 1814. The falls in the river afford some good mill-seats. Above Vergennes is Middlehury, which contains some mills,, and a college. Marble of a good quality is quarried here. Population, 3162. Higher up the river is Rutland, containing quarries of marble, several manufacturing establishments, and the public buildings of the county, with 2708 inhabitants. On the same side of the mountains, but farther south, is Bennington,near which are found limestone, mar ble, and iron. Here are some mills and iron-works. Population, 3429* This place is noted for the victory gained in 1777 by General Stark. Crossing the mountains, and entering the rich valley of the Connecticut, we find a number of thriving towns and neat villages, lining its fertile meadows. By means of several short canals, boats are enabled to ascend the river above Nevv- bury ; the principal of these cuts is at Bellows' Falls, where a fall of fifty feet is overcome by nine locks, and an excavation of half a mile in length. Brattleboro' is a busy place of 2624 inhabitants, and containing some manufactories. Windsor is a neat town in a picturesque situation, with the lofty peaks of Aseutney Moun tain towering above it. A small stream which runs through the town, serves to carry the machinery of several manufacturing establishments j and there is a State prison built of o'ranite, and conducted on the Auburn plan. Population, 2744. At the little village of BeMows' Falls, the river is suddenly contracted from 300 to 16 or 20 feet wide, and rushes with great impetuosity through a narrow chasm cut in the solid rock, having a fall of nearly fifty feet in a half of a mile. MASSACHUSETTS. 23 Woodstock, with 3315 inhabitants, lies a little off from the river; and higher up, but on the Connecticut, is Norwich : civil engineering and other practical sciences receive particular attention in the institution here, styled the Norwich University. Population, 2218, COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS, THIS State is bounded north by Vermont and New Hampshire ; east by the Atlantic Ocean ; south by Rhode Island and Connecticut ; arid west by New York. The average extent, from north to south, is 70 miles, and from east to west 140 ; area, 8500 square miles. The Green Mountains range through the central parts of the State, from north to south. These mountains, in their whole extent, abound in noble elevations, dark green forests, pleasant and sheltered valleys, and an infinite variety of impressive scenery. The highest peaks are Saddle Mt, Taghkonic, Mt. Tom, Mt. Holyoke, &c. Massachusetts has no large rivers wholly within her bounds. The Merrimack passes out of New Hampshire into the northern division of the State, emptying into the sea at Newburyport. The Connecticut, in traversing it from north to south, nearly bisects the State. The Housatonic, Charles and Ipswich, Neponset and Taunton, though they have short courses, are pleasant streams. The deep bay, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, which has given name to the State, has caused it to be known in the other States by the name of the Bay State. Cape Ann bounds it on the north, and Cape Cod on the south. Agriculture receives here great attention, and is conducted with a superior degree of skill and intelligence. Massachusetts is no doubt the best cultivated State in the Union. Both the Legislature and agricultural societies have made 2jreat efforts to encourage a skilful and thrifty husbandry, and to introduce the best foreign breeds of sheep and cattle. Commerce, manufactures, and the fish- ries, are, however, the great objects of pursuit. The population of the State of Massachusetts, in 1790, was 388,727 ; in 1800, 422,845; in 1810, 472,040; in 1820, 523,287; in 1830, 610,408; in 1840, 737,699. Of these, 360,679 were white males, and 368,351 white females ; 4654 were coloured males, and 4015 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 37,837; in commerce, 8063; in manufactures and trades, 85,176; in navigating the ocean, 27,153; do. rivers and canals, 372; in mining, 499; in the learned Drofessions, 3804. In 1840, there were in the State, 61,484 horses or mules ; 282,574 neat cattle ; 378,226 sheep ; 143,221 swine. There were produced, 157,923 bushels of wheat ; 536,014 of rye; 1,809,192 of Indian corn; 87,000 of buckwheat; 165,319 of barley ; 1,319,680 of oats ; 5,385,652 of potatoes ; and 569,395 tons of hay. The' aroducts of the dairy were valued at $2,373,299 ; of the orchard, $389,177. Massachusetts is extensively engaged in the fisheries. There were produced, n 1840, 389,715 quintals of dried or smoked fish ; 124,755 barrels of pickled fish ; 3,630,972 gallons of spermaceti oil ; 3,364,725 gallons of whale, or other fish oil. tn its shipping Massachusetts is the second State in the Union, being inferior only 'to New York. The exports in 1840 amounted to $10*1 86,261, and the imports to $16,513,858. Ptiere were 241 commercial and 123 commission houses engaged in foreign trade,- with a capital of $13,881,517; 3625 retail dry-goods and other stores, with a capital of $12,705,038; the lumber trade employed a capital of $1,022,360; the fisheries employed a, capital of $11,725,850, The manufactures of Massachusetts ai equally distinguished with its com merce. Home-made or family goods were .produced to the amount of $231,942; 27 fulling-mills and 14^4 woollen manufactories produced articles to the amount }f $7,082,898, employing a capital of $4,179,850; 278 cotton factories produced irticles to the amount of $16,553,423, and employed a capital of $17,414,099; [532 saddleries and other manufactories of leather produced articles to the amount f $10,553,826, employing a capital of $3,318,544; flouring, grist and saw-mills 14-* V 24 UNITED STATES. manufactured to the amount of $1,77 J, 185, and employed a capital of $1,440, 152; ships were built to the amount of $1,349,994. The total amount of capital em ployed in manufactures was $41,774,446. Various works of internal improvement have been executed, which afford great convenience and facility to travelling and transportation. They are, the Middlesex Canal, which extends from Boston to the Merrimack river, 26 miles; the Blackstone Canal, from Worcester to Providence, R.'L, 45 miles ; and the Hampden and Hampshire Canal, 20 miles in length, which is a continua tion of the Farmington Canal, from the Connecticut north boundary to North ampton. The following rail-roads have been constructed, viz. : from Quincy to Neponset river, 3 miles ; the first work of the kind in the United States. From Boston to Lowell, 26 miles, with a continuation through Nashua to Concord, N.H. ; a branch of this line from Wilmington is carried, through Andover and Exeter, to North Ber wick, Me., 60 miles. From Boston to Providence, 42 miles, and thence to Sto- nington, Ct. ; a branch line extends from Mansfield, through Taunton, to New Bedford, 33 miles. From Boston to Worcester, 43 miles; then commences the Western Rail-road, through Springfield to the west boundary of the State, where it connects with Albany, Hudson and Troy, by roads lately finished. From Worcester to Norwich, Ct., 59 miles. The Eastern Rail-road, through Salem and Portsmouth, to Portland, Me., 104 miles. The Fitchburg Rail-road, leading through Concord, is in progress. A rail-road from Springfield to Hartford, 26 miles, is on the point of being completed. Massachusetts has three colleges, and two theological seminaries. Harvard University, at Cambridge, is the oldest and best endowed seminary in the coun try, having been founded in 1638, about eighteen years after the first landing on the rock of Plymouth; Williams College, at Williamstown, in the north-west corner of the State, was founded in 1793, and is flourishing: Amherst College, at Amherst, was founded in 1821, and has had an unexampled growth, ranking with the first colleges in New England. The theological seminary at Andover, under the direction of the Congregationalists, has been munificently endowed by a few individuals, and is one of the oldest and most respectable of the kind in the United States. It was opened for students in the autumn of 1808. The Baptists have a flourishing theological institution at Newtown, founded in 1825. All these institutions had, in 1840, 769 students. There were 251 academies and grammar schools in the State, with 16,746 students; and 3362 common and primary schools, with 160,257 scholars. There were 4448 white persons, over twenty ears of -age, who could neither read nor write. These, as in most cases in the tales, were principally made up of foreign immigrants. The principal religious denominations are Congregationalists, Unitarians, Bap tists, Methodists, Episcopalians, and Universalists. In 1836, the Orthodox Con gregationalists had about 323 churches, 291 ministers, and 46,950 communicants; the Unitarians had about 120 ministers; the Baptists had 129 churches, 160 ministers, and 20,200 communicants; the Methodists had 87 ministers; the Episcopalians had one bishop, and 37 ministers; the Universalists had 100 con gregations, and 44 ministers ; the Friends had 18 societies ; the Roman Catholics had one bishop, and 11 ministers. Besides these, there are a few Presbyterians, Christians, Swedenborgian or New Jerusalem, and Shakers. Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, and the principal city of New Englaffd, is pleasantly situated upon a small hilly peninsula on Boston Bay, with a safe and commodious harbour, deep enough to admit the largest vessels, capable of containing 500 ships at once, and so completely landlocked as to be perfectly secure. Several forts, erected on these islands, command the approaches to the city. Beside the main peninsula, the city comprises another peninsula, called South Boston, connected with the former by two free bridges ; and the island of East Boston, with which communication is kept up by steam ferry-boats. Four wooden bridges also connect the city with Charlestown and Cambridge; a solid causeway of earth unites it to Brookline; and a narrow neck of land, which has been raised and widened by artificial constructions, joins it to Roxbury. MASSACHUSETTS. 25 The population, in 1800, was 24,937; in 1820, 43,298; in 1830, 64,392; and n 1840, 93,383 : but, if the adjacent towns are included, which in fact form so nany suburbs of the city, the population exceeds 120,000. The State-house, renting a fine park of 75 acres, called the Common, and standing on the most! elevated part of the city; the market-house, a handsome granite edifice, two stories high, 536 feet by 50 ; the court-house, which is also of granite, 176 eef long, 57 high, 54 wide; the city hall, or old State-house, and Faneuil] Hall, more interesting from historical associations than from their architectural merits ; and the Massachusetts General Hospital, a handsome granite building, 168 feet in length; the Institution for the Blind, in which are about 50 pupils; the Boston Athenaeum, which has a library of 30,000 volumes, and a picture-! gallery ; the Medical School of Harvard University ; the Eye and Ear Infirmary ; the Houses of Industry, Reformation, and Correction, are the principal public buildings that deserve mention. The bridges and wharves are remarkable for their great length. The Canal ] bridge is 2800 feet long; the West Boston bridge, 2760 feet; and some of the I others exceed 1500 feet. The wharves have been constructed in a somewhat similar manner. Central wharf, 1380 feet long, by 150 wide, contains 54 large warehouses, four stories high. Long wharf, 1800 long, by 200 in width, has 76 1 warehouses, equally spacious. Commercial wharf is 1100 feet, by 160, with a] range of 34 granite warehouses. As a commercial city, Boston is the second in the Union, in amount of 'business. [n 1840, the shipping belonging to the port amounted to 220,243 tons; value of imports, $16,000,000; exports, $10,000,000. Banking institutions, 25, with an aggregate capital of $17,800,000; insurance companies, 25, with a capital of $6,000,000 ; 36 newspapers, 12 of which are published daily. This city has ' ever been distinguished for its attention to education. The free schools are, the Latin School, the High School, nine grammar and writing schools, 57 primary schools, and one African school for blacks. There are also numerous private I schools for children of both sexes. Boston has 106 literary and charitable socie ties. The American Academy of Arts and Sfciences, the Historical Society, and the Natural History Society, are among the learned societies. There are 75 i hurches, 2 theatres, an Odeon, &c. Charlestown, which is connected with Boston by three bridges, stands on a lofty peninsula, the centre of which is occupied by Bunker Hill. Though irre gularly built, it commands many fine views of the harbour and the surrounding country. The Bunker Hill Monument is an obelisk of granite, rising to the height of 220 feet from its base, which is 50 feet square. The United States' Dock yard, comprising a number of store-houses, arsenals, magazines, barracks, and [ slips, with a graving or dry-dock, built at a cost of $677,000, covers an extent of about sixty acres. The population of the town is 11,484. Adjoining Charles- town is Cambridge, the seat of Harvard University, with 8,409 inhabitants. At | Watertown, adjoining Cambridge, there is an United States' Arsenal. To the south-west is the little town of Brighton, noted for its cattle market, in] which, in 1840, the sales of cattle, calves, sheep, and swine, amounted toj almost $2,500,000. Lynn is a neat and thriving town, whose inhabitants, be side making 2,500,000 pair of shoes annually, carry on the cod and whale fish- j eries. Population in 1840, 9367. A long beach of smooth, hard sand, terminates in the rocky little peninsula of Nahant, a favourite watering-place! of the neighbouring towns. Marblehead, long the principal seat of the cod fishery, has of late turned its attention partly to mechanical industry, particularly to shoemaking, which occupies the winter leisure of many of its hardy fishermen. 100 sail of small vessels are employed in the fishing, coasting, and foreign trade. Population, 5575. The city of Salem, with 15,082 inhabitants, is noted for the commercial enter prise and industrious spirit of its citizens. It was long largely engaged in the East India and China trade, and its coasting and foreign trade is still consider- 1 able ; but it labours under the disadvantage of not having a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels. The inhabitants have lately engaged in the whale 29 26 UNITED STATES. fishery, in which they employ 13 ships; the whole shipping of the port amounts to 37,021 tons. The city is neatly built, and it contains an athenaeum, a marine museum, a valuable collection of natural and artificial curiosities, belonging to the East India Marine Society, which is composed wholly of nautical men ; 8 banking institutions, with an aggregate capital of $2,350,000 ; 3 insurance com panies, with a capital of $570,000 ; 18 churches, and several charitable institu tions. The manufactures are also considerable. Beverly, connected with Salem by a bridge 1500 feet in length, has 4689 inhabitants, chiefly occupied in com merce and the fisheries ; and Danvers is a busy town, with a population of 5020, containing 21 tanneries, a rolling and slitting mill, &c. Cape Anne, the. north point of Massachusetts Bay, is occupied by the fishing-town of Gloucester : ton nage owned here, 17,072 ; population, 6350. A few miles north of the cape is the handsome town of Newburyport, situated at the mouth of the Merrimack. Its foreign commerce was formerly more extensive than it is at present, but its trade is still important ; and the whale, mackerel and cod fisheries are also carried on from this place: tonnage, 23,965. Population, 6716. The south point of the great bay from which the State takes its name, is Cape Cod, a long irregular peninsula, of 75 miles in length, by from 5 to 20 in breadth. It consists chiefly of hills of white sand, mostly destitute of vegetation. The houses are in some places built upon stakes driven into the ground, with open spaces between, for the sand to drift through. The cape, notwithstanding, is well inhabited, and supports a large population, the majority of which subsists by the fisheries and the coasting-trade. South of Cape Cod is the island of Nantucket, containing the town of the same name, with 9012 inhabitants, all crowded toge ther close upon the harbour, which lies on the northern side. The island is merely a sand-bank, 15 miles in length, by about 5 or 6 in breadth, slightly elevated above the ocean. There are, however, some productive spots ; and about 7000 sheep and 500 cows are raised, which feed in one pasture, the land being held in common. The inhabitants are distinguished for their enterprise. They have about 75 ships engaged in the whale-fishery, and a considerable number of small vessels in the coasting-trade ; 34,342 tons of shipping are owned here, and 2000 men and boys belonging to the island are employed in navigation. Martha's Vineyard is somewhat longer than Nantucket, and contains considerable wood land. The inhabitants are mostly pilots and fishermen; but some salt and woollen cloth are made. Holmes' Hole, a safe and capacious harbour on the northern coast, is an important station for ships waiting for favourable weather to pass Cape Cod. Fifty-seven miles south of Boston, and situated on Buzzard's Bay, is New Bedford, the great seat of the whale-fishery. It is a handsomely built town, and has a safe and capacious harbour. The population, in 1840, amounted to 12,087. The shipping of the district, which includes several other towns on the bay, is 89,089 tons ; nearly the whole of this is employed in the whale-fishery ; and in 1841, 54,860 barrels of sperm and 49,555 of whale oil were br.ought in here. Capital employed in the fisheries, $4,512,000. There are 4 banks, with a capital of $1,300,000 ; 3 insurance offices, 14 churches, an academy, &c. A rail-road, 24 miles long, connects this place with Taunton. Lowell is the greatest manufacturing town in the United States, and may be considered the Manchester of America. It was commenced in 1813, but its prin cipal increase dates from 1822; it now contains 25,000 inhabitants. In 1844, the capital employed in its various manufactures amounted to $10,850,000. Its cotton and woollen facjories alone give employment to near 9000 operatives, the greater part of whom are females. About 24,000,000 pounds of cotton are expended annually in the production of 76,000,000 yards of cloth. The average amount of wages paid per month is $138,600. The supply of water-power from the Merrimack is convenient and unfailing. Lowell also contains powder-mills, flannel-works, grist and saw-mills, glass-works, &c. Among the other places noted for manufactures are Fall River village, near the mouth of Taunton river ; this town was almost wholly destroyed by fire on the 2d of July, 1843, but was almost immediately rebuilt; the loss was estimated at RHODE ISLAND. 27 $700,000. Taunton, on the river of the same name, and 32 miles south-west from Boston; Worcester, west from Boston; Springfield and Northampton, both on Connecticut river, the former on its eastern, and the latter on its western side ; Pittsfield in the western, and Adams in the north-western, part of the State. STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. RHODE ISLAND is bounded north and east by Massachusetts, south by the Atlan tic Ocean, and west by Connecticut. Its extent, from north to south, is about 48 miles, and from east to west, 42 ; area, 1500 square miles. The face of the country is mostly level, except in the north-west, part of which is hilly and rocky. The soil is generally better adapted to grazing than tillage. A large proportion of the north-western and western part of the State has a thin and lean soil, but the islands and country bordering on Narragansett Bay are of great fertility, and are celebrated for their fine cattle, and the abundance and excellence of their but ter and cheese. The products are corn, rye, baxley, oats, and some wheat. The island of Rhode Island is celebrated for its beautiful, cultivated appear ance, abounding in smooth swells, and being divided with great uniformity into well-tilled fields. The climate much resembles that of Massachusetts and Con necticut in its salubrity : the parts of the State adjacent to the sea are favoured with refreshing breezes in summer, and its winter is the most mild of any of the New England States. The rivers are small, with courses of not more than fifty or sixty miles, and discharging an inconsiderable quantity of water ; but as they descend from two hundred to four hundred and fifty feet, and are steady in their supply of water, they furnish a great number of valuable mill-seats ; and they have been exten sively applied to manufacturing purposes. The Pawtucket, Pawtuxet, and Paw- caiuck, are the principal streams. The population of Rhode Island, in 1790, was 58,825; in 1800, 69,122; in 1810, 76,931 ; in 1820, 83,059; in 1830, 97,212;' in 1840, 108,830. Of these 51,362 were white males; 54,225 white females; 1413 were coloured males; 1825 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 16,617; in commerce, 1348; in manufactures and trades, 21,271 ; in navigating the ocean, 1717 ; in the learned professions, 457. It is the only State in the Union in which the number employe.d in manufactures and trades exceeds those employed in agriculture. There were in the State, in 1840, 8024 horses and mules ; 36,891 neat cattle; 90,146 sheep; 30,659 swine. There were produced 3098 bushels of wheat; 34,521 of rye; 450,498 of Indian cojn; 2979 of buckwheat; 66,490 of barley; 171,517 of oats; 911,973 of potatoes; 183,830 pounds of wool. The exports for the year ending September 30th, 1841, was $278,465 ; and the imports were $339,592. The tonnage entered was 25,195 tons, and the tonnage cleared was 21,698 tons. The manufactures of this State, small as it is, are deserving of particular notice. According to the census of 1840, home-made or family goods were pro duced to the amount of $57,180 ; 41 woollen factories, with 45 fulling-mills, produced goods to the amount of $842,172, employing a capital of $685,350; 209 cotton factories produced goods to the amount of $7,116,792, employing a capital of $7,360,000; various mills produced articles to the amount of $83,683, employing a capital of $152,310; vessels were built to the amount of $41,500; four distilleries produced 885,000 gallons of distilled spirits, and 3 breweries produced 89,600 gallons of beer, with a capital of $139,000; capital employed in the fisheries, $1,077,157. The total amount of capital employed in manufac tures was $10,696,136. Brown University, at Providence, founded at. Warwick, in 1764, and per manently located at Providence, in 1770, is the only college in the State, and is a flourishing institution. The president and a majority of the trustees are required to be of the Baptist denomination. The common schools of this State, formerly less attended to than in the other New England States, have latterly received 28 UNITED STATES. much attention, and are improving. In 1843, there was expended for instruction in the State, $42,944. .The State has a permanent school-fund amounting to over $50,000. The sum of $25,000 annually is paid from the State treasury to the school committees of the several towns, for the support of the public schools. In 1840, there were in Brown University, and in a High-School, which partakes of the nature of a college, 324 students. There were 52 academies or grammar- schools, with 3664 students; 434 common and primary schools, with 17,355 scholars. The principal religious denominations are Baptists, Congregationalists, Epis copalians, and Methodists. Until recently, the only Constitution of this State was the Charter granted by Charles II., in 1663. Several attempts have been made within the last 20 years to form a Constitution more suitable to the spirit of the age, all of which failed until November, 1842, when, after a display of much party rancour, a new Con stitution was adopted by a majority of the legal voters. The principal city of Rhode Island is Providence, the second in New England in point of population, wealth, and commerce. It is situated at the head of Nar- ragansett Bay, and is accessible to the largest merchant- vessels : it carries on an active coasting and foreign trade. The population of the city increased from 16,833 in 1830, to 23,171 in 1840. Here are 15 banks with a capital of about $5,000,000 ; also a number of cotton-mills, bleacheries, dye-houses, machine- shops, iron-founderies, &c. Among the public buildings are the State House, the Halls of Brown University, the arcade, a handsome granite edifice, 17 churches, &c. Steam-boats, of the largest and finest class, keep up a daily com munication with New York, during the greater part of the year ; the Blackstone canal, and Boston and Providence rail-road, terminate here ; the latter is conti nued to Stonington, in Connecticut. Tawtucket- River, above Providence, is the seat of extensive manufactures. North Providence, on the Massachusetts bor der, contains the manufacturing village of Pawtucket, opposite which is the town of Pawtucket in that State. The whole manufacturing district is also commonly called Pawtucket, and it contains a number of cotton-mills, beside machine-shops, calico-printing works, iron-works, &c. There is a population of about 8000 souls on both sides of the river. Above this the Pawtucket takes the name of the Blackstone, and furnishes mill-seats which have created the village of Woonsocket Falls, also situated on both sides of the river, in the townships of Smithfield and Cumberland. There are also manufacturing establishments in other parts of Smithfield. Warwick, on the Pawtuxet River and Narragansett Bay, is a manufacturing and fishing town, with 6726 inhabitants. Bristol, on the eastern shore of the bay, is a busy town, with 3490 inhabitants actively engaged in the foreign and coasting trade and whale fishery. Nearly at the south end of the island of Rhode Island is Newport, once one of the princi pal towns in the colonies, and still a favourite summer resort, on account of its pleasant situation, the refreshing coolness of the sea-breezes, and its advantages for sea-bathing. The harbour is one of the finest in the world, being safe, capa cious, and easy of access, and is defended by an important work called Fort Adams; but trade has mostly deserted the town, and now centres chiefly in Pro vidence. Population, 8321. Prudence and Conanicut Islands in the Bay, and Block Island, at the entrance of Long Island Sound, belong to this State. The latter is destitute of a harbour; the inhabitants, 1069 in number, are chiefly fish ermen. STATE OF CONNECTICUT. THIS State is bounded on the north by Massachusetts, south by Long Island Sound, east by Rhode Island, and west by New York. It is 90 miles in length, 70 miles in breadth, and contains 4764 square miles. The principal rivers are, the Connecticut, Housatonic, Thames, Farmington, and Naugatuck. The face of the country is generally hilly, and, in the north-western parts, mountainous. The soil is good, and the industrious inhabitants have not neglected its cultiva- CONNECTICUT. 29 tion. The valley of Connecticut River, from Middletown to the northern bound ary of the State, is a luxuriant meadow, chequered by patches of wheat, corn, and other grain. Some other parts of the State are well cultivated and fruitful, and some portions are beautiful, as well from the gifts of nature as the improve ments of art. The chief productions are Indian corn, rye, wheat, in many parts, oats, harley, buckwheat, flax in large quantities, &c. Orchards are numerous, and cider is made for exportation. The State is, however, generally better adapted to grazing than tillage, and its fine meadows and pastures enable the farmer to feed great numbers of neat cattle, horses, and sheep. The quantity of butter and cheese, annually made, is great, and of well-known excellence. The whale and other fisheries are carried on from several of the ports in this State ; and there are valuable shad fisheries on the larger rivers. The population, in 1790, was 273,946; in 1800, 251,002; in 1810, 261,942; in 1820, 275,248 ; in 1830, 291,711 ; in 1840, 300,015. Of these, 148,300 were white males; 153,556 white females; 3881 were free coloured males; 4212 free coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 56,995; in commerce, 2743; in manufactures and trades, 27,932 ; in navigating the ocean, 2700 ; do. rivers and canals, 431 ; in the learned professions and engineers, 1697. According to the census of 1840, there were in the State, 34,650 horses and mules; 238,650 neat cattle; 403,467 sheep; 131,961 swine. There were pro duced 87,009 bushels of wheat; 737,424 of rye; 33,759 of barley; 1,500,441 of Indian corn; 303,043 of buckwheat; 1,453,262 of oats; 3,414,238 of pota toes; 889,870 pounds of wool; 471,657 of tobacco; 426,704 tons of hay; 17,538 pounds of silk cocoons. The products of the dairy amounted to $1,376,534, and of the orchard to $296,232; the value of lumber was $147,841 ; and 2666 gallons of wine were made. The exports of this State, in 1840, amounted to $518,210 ; and the imports to $227,072. Capital employed in the fisheries, $1,301,640. The manufactures of Connecticut are still more extensive than its commerce. Home-made or family manufactures amounted, in 1840, to $226,162 ; there were 119 woollen manufactories, producing articles to the amount of $2,494,313, em ploying a capital of $1,931,335; 116 cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $2,715,964, and employed a capital of $3,152,000; 408 saddle, shoe, and other leather manufactories, produced articles to the amount of $2,017,931, employing a capital of $829,267 ; vessels were built to the amount of $428,900. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures in the State was $13,- 669,139. This State has 3 colleges. Yale College, at New Haven, founded in 1701, is one of the oldest colleges in the United States. Washington College, at Hart ford, is under the direction of the Episcopalians, founded in 1826. The Wes- leyan University, founded in 1831, is under the direction of the Methodists. In 1840, the three colleges had 700 students, more than two-thirds of whom were in Yale College; there were 127 academies and grammar-schools, with 4685 students. The best endowed of these are Bacon Academy, at Colchester, and the Episcopal Academy, at Cheshire. There were 1619 common and primary schools, with 65,739 scholars ; 526 persons, over 20 years of age, could neither read nor write ; the least number in proportion to its inhabitants in any State in the Union. This State has the largest school-fund in proportion to its population of any State in the Union ; it amounted, in 1842, to $2,044,354. The principal religious denominations are the Congregationalists, Baptists, Methodists, Episcopalians, with a few Roman Catholics, Universalists, and Uni tarians. In 1836, the Congregationalists had 232 churches, 271 ministers, and 29,579 communicants ; the Baptists had 92 churches, 77 ministers, and 10,039 communicants; the Methodists had 73 ministers; the Episcopalians had one bishop and 63 ministers. The chief works of internal improvement in Connecticut are, the Farmington canal, extending from New Haven to Northampton, Mass., 78 miles; the rail road from Stonington to Providence, 45 miles, chiefly in Rhode Island ; this work connects with the Long Island rail-road at Greenport, by a steam ferry of 24 30 UNITED STATES. miles. The Norwich and Worcester, 59 miles. The New Haven and Hartford, 36 miles ; now extended to Springfield, Mass. The Housatonic, from Bridgeport to West Stockbridge, Mass., 96 miles. The three last connect with the great rail-road system leading from Boston to Buffalo. New Haven, a semi-capital of the State, is situated on a bay of the same name. The harbour is safe and spacious, but it is shallow and gradually filling up. The city is regularly laid out and neatly built.: many of the houses have fine gardens; some of the principal streets are bordered by rows of shade trees, and the princi pal square is finely ornamented in the same manner. Among the public buildings are the State-house, the State-hospital, the Halls of Yale College, ten churches, &c. One of the wharves here is 3943 feet in length. The coasting and foreign trade of New Haven is considerable : steam-boats and packets keep up a regular communication with New York ; and there are some extensive manufactories of fire-arms, carriages, &c. Population, 12,960. Bridgeport is a thriving town near the mouth of Housatonic river, with 4570 inhabitants ; it contains 6 churches, 2 banks, a number of manufacturing establishments, 8 academies, and 13 schools. The capital employed in manufactures amounts to half a million dollars. The Housatonic rail-road commences here. In the interior are Danbury and Litch- field, with some manufactures. Hartford, also a semi-capital of the State, is built on the west bank 01 Con necticut river. It stands in a fertile district, abounding in neat villages, which enjoy the advantages of numerous mill-seats and easy communication with the sea ; population in 1840, 94*68. Steamboats run daily between Hartford and New York, and several small steam-packets and tow-boats are employed on the river above. The principal branches of industry are printing and publishing, shoe- making, the manufacturing of saddlery, cards, and wire, wearing apparel, &c Among the public buildings are the State-house, city hall, 13 churches, 5 banks, savings bank, &c., the Asylum for the deaf and dumb, retreat for the insane, &c. The Asylum for the deaf and dumb, the first institution of the kind established in America, was founded in 1816, and has about 140 pupils, who receive instruction in various branches of useful learning, and acquire a knowledge of the useful arts. Washington College, founded in 1824, has 7 professors and 72 students. Middletown, a few miles below Hartford, is accessible to vessels drawing ten feet of water, and its coasting and foreign trade is considerable. The situation of the town is pleasant, and the houses and public buildings neat. Its manufactures comprise cotton and woollen goods, powder, cordage, paper, machinery, &c. : population, 3511. Say brook, at the mouth of the Connecticut river, was the first spot occupied by Europeans in Connecticut, and the ground was regularly laid out for a large city ; but the anticipations of its founders have not been realised. New London, near the mouth of Thames river, is the principal commercial place in Connecticut, with one of the best harbours in the country. Its trade is considerable; upwards of fifty ships sail hence to the whale-fishery. Population, 5519. Norwich, 13 miles above New London, is a flourishing manufacturing city. The water-power is ample, and is extensively employed. There are in the township 17 manufacturing establishments, 8 churches, 44>anks, &c. Population of the city, 4700 ; of the township, 7239. Stonington, in the south-east corner of the State, has a considerable number of vessels engaged in the whaling and seal ing business. Population, 3898. MIDDLE STATES. THE MIDDLE STATES ate bounded on the north by Canada, the river St. Law rence, and Lakes Ontario and Erie; south by Virginia; east by the Atlantic Ocean and New England ; west by the State of Ohio and Virginia. As a region, the Middle States comprise New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland and Delaware ; it extends, from north to south, about 490 miles, and from east to west, UNITED STATES. 31 360 miles, with an area of 115,000 square miles, and occupies one of the finest jarts of the Union. The surface presents every variety of mountain, hill, plain and valley. The Appalachian, or Alleghany Range, extends through this region, from south-west o north-east, in several parallel ridges, which attains in Pennsylvania its widest imits ; none of these, however, reach the elevation of the highest summits of the Blue Ridge in North Carolina, or the White Mountains in New Hampshire. The Alleghany is generally covered with forests, and contains many wild solitudes, seldom trodden by the foot of man, affording shelter to various species of game. The most prominent rivers of the Atlantic sections of the United States are in his region. The Hudson and Delaware rank amongst the most important and jseful of our navigable streams ; but the Susquehannah is, notwithstanding its ength, but little available without the aid of artificial navigation. The mineral productions are various and valuable. Bituminous and anthracite soal, several kinds of iron ore, salt, lime, excellent building materials, and clays useful in the arts, are among the treasures in which it abounds. Mining industry las acquired importance from the activity and success with which it has lately )een pushed ; and the public works of this section are particularly remarkable for their number and magnitude. In general the soil is fertile, and particularly favourable to the production of every species of grain : wheat is the principal object of culture ; tobacco is exten sively raised ; also Indian corn, rye, barley, &c. The fruits common to the tern- aerate regions are abundant, and of excellent quality. The commerce of the Middle States is extensive, and chiefly carried on through the cities of New York and Philadelphia, to which it centres ; the trade, however, of a considerable part of Pennsylvania and Delaware flows to Baltimore. Manufacturing industry is carried to a greater extent, in proportion to the population, than in any part of the United States, excepting New England ; it employs a vast amount of capital and labour, and affords generally a competent remuneration to thousands of both sexes. The Middle States were originally settled by people of various countries, hav- ng different habits, feelings, and opinions: society, therefore, does not possess that uniform character which admits of a general description. The people have not that unity of feeling and interest which is observed in the New England and Southern States ; and the only reason for their being classed together is their contiguity : they seldom unite for any public purpose, and there seems to be but little sympathy or common feeling, which prompts them to act in concert for pub lic affairs. The great body is of British descent, but in New York and Maryland there are many Germans ; and in Pennsylvania they are so numerous as to con stitute, in some respects, a separate community, retaining their own language, and being often ignorant of English. In New York and New Jersey there are many descendants of the original Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam ; and in some sec tions the Dutch language is partially spoken. After the close of the revolutionary war, the emigration from the New England States into New York continued to set so strongly for many years, that a majo rity of the present population of that State are natives of New England, or their descendants. There is also a large body of New England emigrants in Pennsyl vania. Population of the Middle States, in 1830, 4,151,286; in 1840, 5,118,076 ; of whom 97,778 were slaves. STATE OF NEW YORK. THIS great State, the most flourishing, wealthy, and populous in the Union, combining with almost unequalled natural advantages of soil, internal navigation, and easy access by sea, public works executed on a scale of imperial grandeur, exhibits one of those amazing examples of growth and prosperity, that are seen nowhere on the globe beyond our own borders. New York is the most northern of the Middle States, and is bounded north by Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence River, and Lower Canada ; east by Vermont, 15 W 32 UNITED STATES. Massachusetts, and Connecticut; south by the Atlantic Ocean, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania ; and west by Lake Erie, Pennsylvania, and the Niagara river. Length, 316 miles; breadth, 304; containing about 46,000 square miles. This State forms a portion of the elevated table-land of the United States, broken in some places by mountainous ridges of inconsiderable elevation, and containing some remarkable depressions, which form the basins of lakes, or the channels of the rivers. The principal rivers are the Hudson, St. Lawrence, Delaware, Susquehanna, Alleghany, Genesee, Niagara, Oswego, and the Mohawk. A part of the lakes Erie, Ontario and Champlain, are in this State. The other principal lakes are Lake George, Cayuga, Seneca, Oneida, Oswegatchie, Canandaigua, &c. The soil in the maritime part of the State is sandy, in the middle beautifully undulating, and in the western and southern division remarkably level, rich, and inclining to alluvial formation. Iron ore is found in inexhaustible quantities, and of a good quality, in the north eastern part of the State ; it occurs also in some of the central, eastern, and south western counties. Lead is found in some parts ; also gypsum, in the central counties, where it is extensively used for agricultural purposes. Limestone like wise occurs. Salt is procured in abundance from the Onondaga salt-springs, in the township of Salina ; the brine is conducted to Salina, Syracuse, and other neighbouring villages, where the salt is obtained by boiling, by solar evaporation, and by artificial evaporation, 45 gallons of water yielding a bushel of salt. The well-known springs of Ballston and Saratoga are partly saline, partly chalybeate ; and the water is exported in considerable quantities, not only to other States, but to foreign countries. In the western part of the State there are burning springs, yielding carburetted hydrogen, which is applied to economical uses in the neigh bouring villages. Wheat is the great agricultural staple of the State, and flour and provisions are largely exported. The manufactures are extensive and flourishing. The capital employed in that branch of national industry, in 1840, was over $55,000,000, in dependent of home-made articles produced to the amount of more than $4,600,000. The cotton and woollen factories alone employed a capital of about $8,400,000, and produced articles to the value of near $7,200,000. The commerce of New York is on a great scale, as, beside supplying her own wants, and exporting her surplus productions, she imports a large share of the foreign articles consumed in the neighbouring Atlantic States, as well as in many of the Western States, to which her natural and artificial channels of communi cation give her access ; and her great commercial emporium is the outlet for the produce of the same regions. The inhabitants consist in part of the descendants of the original Dutch settlers, who have at present, however, lost in a great measure their national characteris tics, and the descendants of the German palatines, who removed thither in the beginning of the last century, with some emigrants from Great Britain, and other European countries. But the mass of the people are of New England origin or descent, and they are favourably distinguished for enterprise, intelligence, and virtue. The population in 1790 was 340,120; in 1800, 586,050; in 1810,959,049; in 1820, 1,372,810 ; in 1830, 1,913,508 ; and in 1840, 2,428,921. Of these, 853,929 were white males, and 816,276 white females; 6435 were coloured males, and 6428 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 455,954 ; in commerce, 28,468 ; in manufactures and trades, 173,193; in mining, 1898; in navigating the ocean, 5511 ; do. lakes, rivers and canals, 10,167; in the learned professions, 14,111. There were in the State, according to the census of 1840, 475,543 horses and mules; 1,911,244 neat cattle; 5,118,777 sheep; 1,900,065 swine; poultry to the value of $1,153,143. There were produced, 12,286,418 bushels of wheat; 2,979,323 of rye ; 10,972,286 of Indian corn ; 2,520,060 of barley ; 2,287,885 of buckwheat ; 30,123,614 of potatoes ; 9,845,295 pounds of wool ; 10,048,109 of sugar ; 447,235 of hops; 1735 of silk cocoons; 3,127,047 tons of hay ; and 1130 of hemp or flax. NEW YORK. The products of the dairy amounted to $10,496,021 ; of the orchard, to $1,701,935 of lumber, to $3,891,302. The commerce of New York greatly surpasses that of any other State in th Union. The exports of 1841 were $33,139,833, and the imports were $75,713,426 the tonnage entered was 1,111,680; the tonnage cleared, 965,548. The manufactures of the State are also extensive. Home-made or famil) manufactures amounted to $4,636,547 ; 323 woollen manufactories, with 89( fulling-mills, produced articles to the amount of $3,537,337, with a capital o $3,469,349; 117 cotton factories, with 211,659 spindles, employed 4407 persons and a capital of $4,900,772, and produced articles of the value of $3,640,237 332 persons produced 2,867,884 bushels of salt, with a capital of $5,601,000 ; 186 furnaces produced 29,088 tons of cast-iron; 120 forges produced 53,693 tons o bar-iron, and employed a capital of $2,003,418 ; 9 smelting-houses producei 670,000 pounds of lead, and employed a capital of $221,000; boots, shoes, sad dies, &c., were produced to the amount of $6,232,924 ; machinery was producec to the amount of $2,895,517; hardware and cutlery, to the value of $1,566,974 precious metals, to the value of $1,106,203 ; 212 distilleries produced 11,973,8H gallons of spirits ; 83 breweries produced 6,059,122 gallons of beer, and employee a capital of $3,107,066 ; 338 flouring-mills produced 1,861,385 barrels of flour and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $16,953,280, and em ployed a capital of $14,648,814; vessels were built to the amount of $797,317 amount of capital employed in the fisheries, $949,250. The total amount b capital employed in manufactures was $55,252,779. This State has several important literary institutions : Columbia College, in New York city, founded in 1754 ; Union College, at Sohenectady, founded in 1795; Hamilton College, in Clinton, founded in 1812 ; Geneva College, at Ge neva, founded in 1823; University of the City of New York, founded in 1831 The Hamilton Literary and Theological Seminary was founded by the Baptists n 1819 ; the Theological Institute of the Episcopal Church was founded in 1819 n the city of New York ; the New York Theological Seminary, at Auburn, was bunded in 1821 ; the Hartwick Seminary, at Hartwick, Otsego county, foundec 1816; the College of Physicians and Surgeons, in the city of New York, was "ounded in 1807 ; the Albany Medical College was founded in 1839. In the ibove-named institutions there were, in 1840, 1285 students. There were in the State 505 academies, with 34,715 students, and 10,539 common and primary schools, with 502,367 scholars. There were 44,452 white persons, over twenty years of age, who could neither read nor write. In 1838, the Presbyterians, with a few Congregationalists, had 564 ministers, and 86,000 communicants ; the Dutch Reformed had 142 ministers, and 15,800 communicants; the Methodists had 591 ministers, and 30,700 communicants; he Baptists had 483 ministers, and 67,183 communicants ; the Episcopalians had 207 ministers, and about 10,000 communicants ; the Associate Reformed had 30 ninisters ; the Lutherans had 27 ministers ; the Roman Catholics had 32 minis- ers ; the Unitarians had 8 ministers ; the Universalists had 25 ministers. The State of New York is distinguished for its magnificent public works, con tructed for the purpose of connecting the great central basin of the lakes and the St. Lawrence with the Atlantic; 663 miles of canal navigation have been ob- ained, at a cost of $13,497,568. The great trunk is the Erie canal, extending "rom Buffalo, on Lake Erie, to the Hudson, 364 miles. The Champlain canal ;xtends from Lake Champlain, at Whitehall, to the junction of the Erie canal vith the Hudson, 64 miles, with a navigable feeder of 12 miles; lockage, 188 eet, by 21 locks. Other branches of this work, pervading different parts of the state, are the Oswego canal, 38 miles, connecting the Erie canal at Salina with jake Ontario; Cayuga and Seneca canal, 23 miles, extending from Geneva to Montezuma, on the Erie canal, and thus continuing the navigation through those wo lakes ; Crooked Lake, eight miles, connecting that lake with Seneca Lake; hemung canal, from the head of the latter to the river Chemung, or Tioga, at Elmira, 23 miles, with a navigable feeder from Painted Post to Elmira, of 16 miles ; Chenango canal, 97 miles in length, from Binghamton, on the Chenango, 30 " 34 UNITED STATES. to Utica ; the Black River canal, 35 miles in length, from Rome, on the Erie canal, to High Falls, on Black river; and the Genesee Valley canal, from Rochester to Olean, on the Alleghany river, 107 miles. Beside the works constructed by the State, the principal canal made by a pri vate company is the Delaware and Hudson, extending from the mouth of Round- out creek, on the latter river, to Port Jervis on the Delaware, up that river to the mouth of the Lackawaxen, and along the latter to Honesdale, in Pennsylvania ; total length 109 miles, of which 26 are in Pennsylvania. From Honesdale a rail road runs to the coal-mines at Carbondale, a distance of 16 miles. The following are the principal rail-roads completed in the State of New York : From Albany to Schenectady, 16 miles; from Schenectady to Utica, 78 miles; from Utica to Syracuse, 53 miles ; from Syracuse to Auburn, 26 miles ; from Auburn to Rochester, 78 miles ; from Rochester to Attica, 44 miles ; from Attica to Buffalo, 36 miles. All the foregoing roads form one continuous line from Albany to Buffalo of 331 miles, and, in connection with the rail-road from Albany to West Stockbridge, Ms., of 38 miles, and thence to Boston, 162 miles, the whole forms a splendid connected rail-road of 531 miles in length. The other chief rail roads in the State extend from Schenectady to Saratoga Springs, 22 miles ; from West Troy to Schenectady, 20 miles; from Troy to Ballston Spa, 23 % miles; from Hudson to West Stockbridge, Ms., 33 miles; from Brooklyn to Greenport, 90 miles; from New York to White Plains, 29 miles; from Corning to Bloss- burg, Pa., 40 miles; from Buffalo to Niagara Falls, 23 miles; from Lockport to Niagara Falls, '24 miles ; from Ithaca to Owego, 29 miles ; and from Piermont to Dunkirk, on lake Erie, 446 miles : this road is finished and in use from Pier mont, about 45 miles. / The city of New York is the largest, most wealthy, and most flourishing of all American cities; the greatest commercial emporium of America, and, after Lon don, the greatest in the world. No city in the world possesses equal advantages for foreign commerce and inland trade. Two long lines of canals, stretching back In every direction, have increased its natural advantages, and rendered it the great mart of an almost inde finite extent of country ; while its facilities of communication with all parts of the world have made it the thoroughfare of the same vast region. The progress of its population has never been paralleled : in 1790 it was 33,131 ; in 1810,96,373; in 1830, 203,007; and in 1840, 312,710; or, including Brooktyn, nearly 350,000. New York is well-built and regularly laid out, with the exception of the older part, in which the streets are crowded, narrow, and crooked; but this now forms only a small portion of the city. It is chiefly as a great mart of foreign and inland commerce that New York is most advantageously known. The arrivals from foreign ports are about 2000 annually, and of coasters near 4800. The passengers that arrived in 1843 were 46,302 in number, of whom only 341 were Americans. The imports in the same year amounted to $50,308,520, the exports to $23,440,336, and the duties collected to $11,300,407. There is a line of steam-packets to Liverpool, besides which there are line-ships that sail for Liverpool every five days, to London every ten days, and to Havre every eight days. Regular lines of packets are also established to all the chief cities of the United States, the West Indies, and South America. Steamboat-lines to all the adjacent maritime towns are numerous. t There are in New York 25 banks, with an aggregate capital of more than $27,000,000; several marine insurance companies, with a capital of about $3,000,000 ; 22 fire insurance companies, with a capital of about $6,000,000, besides several mutual insurance companies. There are 4 savings banks, 15 markets, 6 theatres, a circus, and 2 museums. ' Among the public build ings are the City Hall, a handsome edifice of white marble, with a front of 216 feet; the Hall of the University, a splendid building, 180 by 100 feet; the Hall of Columbia College; the Hospital ; the City Lyceum ; 185 churches; the Astor House, a vast hotel of Quincy granite, 200 feet by 150, and 77 feet high, contain ing 390 rooms; the Almshouse at Bellevue, on East river; the Penitentiary on Blackwell's Island, in the same river, several miles from the city; the Custom- NEW YORK. 35 house, an elegant building, 177 feet long by 89 wide, on the model of tho Par thenon; the new Exchange, recently erected in place of the one destroyed by fire in 1835 ; the Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, and usually called the Tombs, The benevolent societies are numerous and well supported. They comprise a hospital, with which is connected a lunatic asylum, at Bloomingdale ; a hospital at Believue, for the sick and insane poor, connected with the city almshouse; three dispensaries ; an institution for the blind ; one for the deaf and dumb ; and a great number of orphan asylums, relief associations, education, bible, and tract societies, &c. Neither is New York behind her sister cities in her literary and scientific establishments. Beside the educational institutions already mentioned, the Historical Society, the New York Society Library, with 40,000 volumes; the Lyceum of Natural History, and the American Lyceum, have published some valuable papers; while the Mercantile Library Association, and the Apprentices' Library, show that the merchants and mechanics are not indifferent to the intellec tual improvement of their clerks and apprentices. There are here also an Academy of Fine Arts, and an Academy of Design. The American Institute, for the promotion of domestic industry by the distribution of premiums and other rewards, holds annual fairs for the exhibition of the products of American industry. The most splendid work undertaken by the city corporation is the Croton Water-works. An aqueduct built of stone and brick conveys the water of the Croton river to the city. It commences five miles from the Hudson, at a dam built in the river for the purpose of creating a supply, and which contains 500 million gallons. The aqueduct is 40 miles long, has a descent of about 13 inches per mile, and will discharge 60 million gallons of water in 24 hours. The re ceiving reservoir, two miles from the city, covers 35 acres, and contains 150 mil lion gallons. The Croton water is of the purest kind of river water, and is sum cient to supply a population five times as numerous as that of New York. It is carried to all parts of the city in iron pipes, laid deep enough to be unaffected by the frost. The city of Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite to New York, is situated on a rising ground which commands an agreeable view, and it partakes in the commercial activity and prosperity of its neighbour. Here is a navy-yard of the United States, on Wallabout Bay. There are in Brooklyn 30 churches, 3 banks, 3 insurance companies, &c. Steam ferry-boats are constantly run ning across the East river to New York, and a rail-road extends to Greenport, 96 miles, at the eastern end of Long Island, which forms a portion of the nearest route to Boston. Population in 1830, 15,394; and in 1840, 36,233. About 50 miles above the city of New York, and on the west side of the Hudson, is West Point, a celebrated military post during the war of independence, and now the seat of the United States' Military Academy for tie education of officers of the army. Newburffh, 10 miles above West Point, and on the right bank, with 6000 inhabitants, and Poughkeepsie, 14 miles higher, on the left, with 7500, are neat, thriving villages, with considerable trade, and several ships engaged in the whale- fishery. Near the head of ship navigation, 117 miles from the sea, stands the city of Hudson, on a commanding eminence on the left bank of the river. Its trade and manufactures are extensive and increasing, and it has eleven ships, with an aggregate of about 4000 tons, engaged in the whale-fishery. The city is well laid out and prettily built, and the neighbourhood presents many charming pros pects. Population in 1840, 5672. On the western bank of the Hudson river, 145 miles above New York, is the city of Albany, the capital, and, in point of size, the third city of the State. Its wealth and trade have been greatly increased by the Erie and Champlain canals, which terminate in a large basin in the city; and its situation renders it a great thoroughfare, not only for traders, but also for travellers on the northern route. It contains several handsome public buildings, among 1 which are the capi- tol, a fine stone edifice; the State-hall, and the city hall, both of white marble; the Academy, of red freestone; 30 churches, &c. A medical college, female aca- 15 UNITED STATES. emy, and exchange, are also important public buildings. Twenty steamboats ,nd fifty tow-boats ply between this city and New York, and the intermediate >laces on the river. By the Erie canal and a continuous line of rail-roads, Albany s connected with Buffalo, and shares extensively in the trade of the far West. 3y the Champlain canal, it receives the trade of the North. Rail-roads also extend to Saratoga, and another great line of rail-roads extends eastward to 3oston. Population in 1840, 33,721. The city of Troy, six miles above Albany, s situated on the opposite side of the river. The trade and manufactures of this >lace ate both considerable. The city is regularly laid out and prettily built. Copulation in 1840, 19,334. Nearly north from Albany, at a distance of 29 and miles respectively, are the most frequented of American watering-places, Ballston Spa and Saratoga. At the eastern end of Lake Ontario, at the head of a deep bay, is Sacket's Harbour, an important naval station during the three years' war ; and on the Black river, 7 miles from its mouth, is the flourishing village of VVatertown, with about 4000 inhabitants. The water-power derived rom the river is computed at 10,000 cubic, feet; the fall is 88 feet in a mile, and "bmis an immense hydraulic power, which is just beginning to be used ; here are i number of mills and factories of different kinds. Up the valley of the Mohawk, and along the line of the canal and its branches, are a number of cities and towns, which have sprung up, as if by enchantment, ,n the bosom of a wilderness. Schenectady, Utica, Syracuse, Oswego, Auburn, [thaca, Seneca, Canandaigua, Rochester, Lockport, and Buffalo, are the princi pal. The city of Schenectady, situated in the midst of a fertile tract, affording lumerous mill-seats, traversed by the canal, and connected by rail-roads with Albany, Saratoga, and Utica, has an extensive and increasing trade, and some manufactures. It is the seat of Union College, one of the principal collegiate "nstitutions in the State. Population in 1840, 6784. Upwards of 90 miles north-west from Albany, on the Erie canal, is the city oi Utica. In 1794, the spot contained only four or five log houses, in the midst of a wilderness : in 1840, the city had a population of 12,782 souls, 18 churches, a court-house, offices for the clerks of the Supreme and United States' Courts, an ex change, 2 academies, the Utica library, apprentices' library, museum, Protestant and Roman Catholic orphan asylums, and various other charitable institutions; 4 banks, a savings bank, mutual insurance company, and 1GOO dwellings : it dates its prosperity from the completion of the Erie canal. Still farther west, on the canal, are the villages of Salina, Syracuse, Geddes and Liverpool, the seat of the Onondaga salt-springs, which are the property o: the State : the manufacturers pay a duty of six cents a bushel, and, in the yeai 1840, made 622,335 bushels, much of which is sent out of the State. Tht works are capable of producing 3,000,000 bushels a year. Population of Syra cuse in 1840, 6500; of Salina, 2600. From Syracuse, a branch canal extends tc Oswego, on Lake Ontario, one ^)f the most flourishing villages in the State : tht river of the same name furnisnes an inexhaustible water-power, which is verj extensively employed for useful purposes, and an excellent harbour, protected bi piers, constructed by the general government. Since the opening of the Wellanc canal, a considerable portion of the trade of the upper lakes, as well as that o Lake Ontario, enters at Oswego, and large quantities of wheat are brought in t( be ground here. The population of the village more than doubled between 183( and 1840, having increased from 2117 to 4500 inhabitants. Rochester, situated on the Genesee river, seven miles from its mouth, an traversed by the Erie canal, is a flourishing town. The river has here a fall o upwards of 90 feet, and, a few miles below, it descends by a fall of 75 feet to the level of Lake Ontario. The water-power thus produced is immense, and then are now in the city 22 large flour-mills, several cotton and woollen manufactories and a great number of other manufacturing establishments. The aqueduct ove: the river is upheld by ten arches of hewn stone. The population increased frorr 1502 in 1820, to 20,191 in 1840. The city contains 23 churches, 6 banks, ? savings bank, museum, a collegiate institute, and various other institutions The city of Buffalo, at the western termination of the canal, has a harbou NEW JERSEY. 37 on Lake Erie, protected by .a long pier. The city is well built and finely situated, overlooking the lake ; and it contains a great number of large warehouses and manufactories. The population in 1820 was 2095 ; in 1830, 6321 ; and in 1840, 18,213.. The lake-trade is very extensive. In 1817, there were but 25 vessels, and no steamboat, on Lake Erie; and in 1840 they amounted to 360 sloops, schooners and brigs, and 60 steamboats, most of which exceeded 200 tons bur then; beside several ships, &c. Buffalo contains, in addition to its numerous churches, an exchange, a theatre, orphan asylum, young men's association, &c. Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, increased its population from 3324 in 1830, to 5650 in 1840. By the Owego rail-road, it is connected with the Susquehanna, and, by the lake, with the Erie canal and tide-water. Its situation is highly pic turesque. There are numerous manufacturing establishments here. STATE OF NEW JERSEY. THE State of New Jersey is bounded north by New York, east by the Atlantic Ocean and New York, south by Delaware Bay, and west by Pennsylvania. It is 138 miles in length, and 50 miles in breadth; the area is about 6600 square miles. The soil of this State is not naturally well adapted to agricultural pursuits, much of the land being either sandy or marshy ; yet its proximity to two of the largest markets in the United States, and the industry of the inhabitants, have rendered it exceedingly productive of all sorts of grain, fruits, and vegetables, common to the climate. New Jersey is intersected by many navigable rivers, and has numer ous streams for mills, iron-works, and every species of manufactures requiring water-power. The principal of these streams are the Raritan, Hackensack, Pas- saic, Salem, Tom, Cohanzey, and Maurice rivers. New Jersey abounds in valuable iron ores ; rich veins of zinc ore occur in the northern part of the State ; copper also abounds, and has been extensively worked. The greater part of the sandy tract is covered with extensive pine forests, which have afforded supplies of fuel for the numerous furnaces of the State, and the steamboats of the neighbouring waters ; the middle section is the most highly improved and wealthy part of the State, being divided into srnaH farms and kitchen-gardens, which are carefully cultivated, the produce of which finds a ready market in the manufacturing towns of the district, and in the great cities of the adjacent States. The northern counties contain much good pasture-land, with numerous fine farms. The apples and cider of the north are as noted for their superior quality as the peaches of the south. The industry of the inhabitants is chiefly devoted to agriculture, commerce being mostly carried on through the ports of New York and Pennsylvania ; the north-eastern corner is, however, the seat of flourishing manufactures. The shad and oyster fisheries in the rivers and great estuaries that border on the State, afford a profitable employment to many of the inhabitants. The population of New Jersey, in 1790, was 184,189; in 1800, 211,149; in 1810, 245,592 ; in 1820, 277,575 ; in 1830, 320,779 ; in 1840, 373,306. Of these, 177,055 were white males; 174,533, white females; 10,780 were free coloured males; 10,261, free coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 56,701; in commerce, 2283 ; in manufactures and trades, 27,004 ; in mining, 266 ; in navi gating the ocean, 1143; in navigating rivers arki canals, 1625; in the learned professions, 1627. There were in the State, in 1840, 70,502 horses and mules ; 220,202 neat cat tle; 219,285 sheep; 261,443 swine. There were produced, 774,203 bushels of wheat; 1,665,820 of rye; 4,361,975 of Indian com; 3,083,524 of oats; 12,501 of barley; 856,117 of buckwheat; 2,072,069 of potatoes; 397,207 pounds of wool ; 1966 of silk cocoons. The products of the dairy amounted to $1,328,032 ; of the orchard, to $464,006; of lumber, to $271,591 ; 9416 gallons of wine were made. The home-made or family manufactures amounted to $201,625; 31 woollen manufactories, and 49 fulling-mills, produced goods to the amount of $440,710, 38 UNITED STATES. employing a capita] of $314,650; 43 cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $2,086,104, employing a capital of $1,722,810; hats and caps were manufactured to the amount of $1,181,562; saddles, boots, shoes, &c., were pro duced to the amount of $1,582,746 ; 64 flouring-mills manufactured 168,797 bar rels of flour, and, with other mills, employed a capital of $2,641,200 ; ships were built to the amount of $334,240 ; capital employed in the fisheries, $93,275. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $11,517,582. The College of New Jersey, or Nassau Hall, at Princeton, is one of the oldest and most distinguished in the country, and has educated many eminent men. At the same place is the Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian Church, more recently founded, but equally distinguished. Rutgers College, in New Bruns wick, was founded in 1770, and latterly has been flourishing. Connected with it is the Theological Seminary of the Reformed Dutch Church, founded in 1784, which is respectable. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 433 students; there were in the State 66 academies, with 3027 students, and 1207 common and primary schools, with 52,583 scholars. There were 6385 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. In 1835, the Presbyterians had 100 churches, and 105 ministers; the Dutch Reformed had 48 churches, and 42 ministers ; the Episcopalians had 35 churches, 1 bishop, and 29 ministers ; the Methodists had 64 ministers, and about twice as many congregations ; the Baptists in 1832 had 61 churches, and 54 ordained ministers ; the Friends had 67 meetings ; the Roman Catholics had 4 ministers. There are also Congregationalists, Universalists, and others. There are several important works of internal improvement in this State. The Morris canal proceeds from Jersey city, opposite to New York, westwardly, 101 miles, to Easton, Pa. The Delaware and Hudson canal commences at Borden- town, proceeds north-west to Trenton, and thence north-east to New Brunswick, on the Raritan river. The Camden and Amboy rail-road commences at Camden, opposite to Philadelphia, and proceeds north-east to Amboy, 61 miles; it has a branch from Bordentown to Trenton, 8 miles, and another from Craft's Creek to Jobstown^ 13 miles. The Paterson and Hudson rail-road proceeds from Jersey city to Paterson, 16^ miles. The New Jersey rail-road proceeds from, Jer.sey city, through Newark, 34 miles, to New Brunswick ; here it joins the New Brunswick r>d Trenton rail-road, which connects the two places, 27 miles dis tant. The Morris and Essex rail-road extends from Newark, 22 miles, to Morris- town. A rail-road extends from Elizabeth port, 25 miles, to Somerville. ' The city of Trenton, on the east bank of the Delaware, at the head of sloop navigation, is the capital of the State. It is regularly laid out, and contains the State-house, State-prison, and seven churches. A wooden bridge, 1100 feet in length, here crosses the river, just below the falls ; and the Delaware and Raritan canal passes through the city. The falls afford extensive water-power for manu facturing purposes, and there are ten mills and manufactories in the vicinity. Population, 4035. Ten miles from Trenton is the village of Princeton, the seat of New Jersey College, and celebrated in the revolutionary history for the action of January 3d, 1777. Population, 3055. The city of New Brunswick, at the head of sloop navigation on the Raritan, and at the termination of the Delaware and Raritan Canal, is the depot of the produce of a fertile district, and a place of considerable trade. The upper streets are spacious and handsome^ and command a fine prospect. Here are Rutgers College, and a theological seminary of the Dutch Reformed Church. Population in 1840, 8693. It contains 8 churches, 2" banks, 120 stores, and 800 dwellings. At the mouth of the Raritan stands the city of Amboy, or Perth Amboy, with a good harbour, which is, however, little used. Elizabethtown is a pretty and thriving town near Newark Bay, with about 2500 inhabitants; it contains several manufactories, mills, &c. It is intersected by two rail-roads. The city of Newark, the largest and most important town in New Jersey, stands on the Passaic, three miles from Newark Bay, and has easy communication with New York by means of steamboats and the New Jersey rail-road ; the Morris canal also passes through the city. Newark is prettily situated and well built, PENNSYLVANIA. 39 with spacious streets and handsome houses, many of which are ornamented with fine shade-trees. The manufactures are extensive ; the capital employed in 1840 amounted to $1,511,339. Carriages, shoes and boots, cutlery, saddlery, jewelry, hats, furniture, &c., are among the articles produced. The population in 1830 was 10,953, and in 1840, 17,290. Paterson, at the falls of the Passaic, is one of the principal manufacturing towns in the country; it has an immense water- power, which is extensively applied to economical purposes. Here are cotton- mills, with numerous other works, such as paper-mills, machine-shops, button factories, iron and brass founderies, nail factories, woollen-mills, &c. The town contains nine churches, a philosophical society, and also a mechanics 1 society for improvement in the mechanic arts. Population, 7596. Below Trenton, on the Delaware, is Bordentown, pleasantly situated on ele vated ground overlooking the river, and standing at the termination of the Dela ware and Raritan canal. Population, about 1800. The city of Burlington, below Bordentown, is also a neat little town, situated on the bank of the river, with 3434 inhabitants. Steamboats from Philadelphia touch at these places several times a day. The city of Oamden, opposite to Philadelphia, carries on some branches of manufacturing industry ; several steam ferry-boats are constantly plying between the two cities. It contains 6 churches, an academy, bank, court house, &c. Population in 1840, 3,371 ; in 1845, 4306, with 836 dwellings. Woodbury, 7 miles south of Camden, is connected with the latter by a rail road ; it is a neat village of 120 dwellings, and about 800 inhabitants. Salem, on Salem creek, 35 miles south of Camden, is a town of 250 houses, and had a population in 1840 of 2007 inhabitants. It was founded in 1675, and was the first place that was settled by English emigrants in West Jersey. COMMONWEALTH OF PENNSYLVANIA. *- . THIS State, which, from her central position, her dimension$, her natural re sources, her great lines of communication, and her population, may rank as one of the most important in the Union, is bounded on the north by New York and Lake Erie, east by New Jersey, south-east by Delaware, south by Maryland and Virginia, and weslt by part of Virginia and Ohio. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 307 miles, and its breadth 157; area, 46,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Delaware, Schuylkill, Lehigh, Susquefaanna, Juniata, Alleghany, Monongahela, and Ohio. The various ridges of the Alle- ghany range, whose general direction is from south-west to north-east, intersect the central parts of this State. The valleys between many of these ridges are often of a rich black soil, suited well to the various kinds of grass and grain. Some of the mountains admit of cultivation almost to their summits. No State in the Union shows to the traveller a richer agriculture than Pennsylvania, is emphatically a grain country, raising the finest wheat. It produces all the fruits and productions of the northern and middle States, and is particularly famous for the size and excellence of its breed of draught horses. The inhabitants of Pennsylvania, though composed of all nations, are distin guished for their habits of order, indusUy, and frugality. The passing stranger as he traverses the State, is struck with the noble roads and public works, with the well-cultivated farms, and their commodious and durable stone houses, and often still larger stone barns. An agricultural country, alike charming and rich spreads under his eye. The mineral wealth of Pennsylvania is very great. Coal, iron, and salt, occur in vast quantities. The coal of Pennsylvania is of two kinds, the anthracite and bituminous, which are quite distinct in their qualities and localities. The first is found in the eastern part of the State, between the Delaware and Susquehanna rivers, and is estimated to cover an extent of about 624,000 acres. The bitumi nous coal is found in the western parts of the State, on the Ohio, Alleghany, anc other rivers in that region. Iromore of an excellent quality is abundant, and extensively wrought. The 40 UNITED STATES. iron-mines in the eastern part of the State were explored and worked at an early period of colonial settlement, and had become an interest of value before the Revolution. Since the peace of 1783, with much fluctuation, iron has at all times employed in Pennsylvania a considerable amount of capital and labour; whilst the recent successful application of anthracite coal to the fusion of the ore, and the abundance of both materials in close proximity, promise a vast extension of the business. The population in 1790 was 434,373; in 1800, 602,545; in 1810, 810,091 ; in 1820, 1,049,313; in 1830, 1,346,672; in 1840, 1,724,033. Of these, 884,770 were white males; 831,345, white females; 22,752 were coloured males; 25,102, coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 207,533 ; in commerce, 15,338; in manufactures and trades, 105,883; in mining, 4603; in navigating the ocean, 1815; in navigating canals, rivers and lakes, 3951 ; in the learned professions, 6706. There were in the State, in 1840, 361,558 horses and mules; 1,161,576 neat cattle ; 1,755,597 sheep ; 1,485,360 swine. Poultry was produced to the amount of $681,979. There were produced, 12,993,218 bushels of wheat; 6,544,654 of rye; 2,096,016 of buckwheat; 14,077,363 of Indian corn; 206,858 of barley; 20,485,744 of oats ; 9,477,343 of potatoes ; 3,028,657 pounds of wool ; 48,694 of hops; 325,018 of tobacco; 2,265,755 of sugar ; 7262 of silk cocoons ; 1,302,685 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $3,152,987; of the orch ard, at $610,512; of lumber, at $1,146,355. There were made 14,328 gallons of wine. The exports for the year ending September 30th, 1841, were $5,152,501, and the imports $10>346,698. The tonnage entered was 99,385 ; and cleared, 83,523 tons. The manufactures of Pennsylvania are extensive. According to the census of 1840, home-made or family manufactures amounted to $1,292,429; 235 woollen manufactories and 337 fulling-mills produced articles to the amount of $2,298,861, employing a capital of $1,500,546; 106 cotton manufactories produced articles to the amount of $5,013,007, employing a capital of $3,325,400 ; 2997 persons pro duced 859,686 tons of anthracite coal, with a capital of $4,334,102 ; 1798 persons produced 11,620,654 bushels of bituminous coal, with a capital of $300,416; 213 furnaces produced 9-8,395 tons cast-iron, and 169 forges, &c. produced 87,244 tons of bar-iron, employing a capital of $7,781,471 ; 1149 tanneries, and 2132 other manufactories, as saddleries, &c., produced articles to the amount of $3,453,243, employing a capital of $3,979,459; 30 powder-mills manufactured 1,184,225 pounds of powder, employing a capital of $66,800; drugs, paints, &c., were pro duced to the amount of $2,100,074; 28 glass-houses and 15 glass-cutting estab- blishments produced articles to the amount of $772,400, employing a capital of $714,100; machinery was produced to the value of $1,993,752; precious metals to the value of $2,679,075 ; 1005 distilleries produced 6,228,768 gallons of dis tilled spirits; 87 breweries produced 12,765,974 gallons of beer, employing a capital of $1,585,771 ; 725 flouring-mills produced 1,181,530 barrels of flour, and with other mills produced articles to the amount of $9,232,515, employing a capital of $7,779,784. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures in the State, was $31,815,105. The colleges are numerous. The University of Pennsylvania, in Philadelphia, was founded in 1755 ; Dickinson College, in Carlisle, in 1783 ; Jefferson College, in Canonsburg, in 1802; Washington College, in Washington, in 1806; Alle- ghany College, in Meadville, in 1815 ; Pennsylvania College, in Gettysburg, in 1832; La Fayette College, in Easton, 1832; Marshall College, at Mercersburg, 1836. Besides these, are the Medical Department of the University of Pennsyl vania, founded at Philadelphia, in 1765; Jefferson Medical College, at Philadel phia, in 1824 ; the Medical Department of Pennsylvania College, at Philadelphia, in 1839; the Theological Seminary of the Lutheran Church, at Gettysburg, in 1826 ; the Seminary of the German Reformed Church, at York, in 1825 ; the Western Theological Seminary, at Canonsburg, and the Theological Seminary at Pittsburg. In all these seminaries there were, in 1840, 2034 students. There PENNSYLVANIA. 41 were in the State 290 academies, with 15,970 students ; and 4968 common and primary schools, with 179,989 scholars. There were 33,940 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. Of the religious denominations, the Presbyterians, including the Associate Reformed, had, in 1836, 400 ministers; the Methodists, 250; the Baptists, 140; the German Reformed, 73 ; the Episcopalians, 70 ; the Friends, 150 congrega tions. Besides these, there are several other denominations which are less numerous. By a splendid course of internal improvements, Pennsylvania has greatly extended and facilitated her trade, but has contracted the largest debt of any State in the Union which she is abundantly able to discharge, but can only do it by mode rate taxation. The central division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at the ter mination of the Columbia and Philadelphia rail-road, at Columbia, and extends along the Susquehanna and Juniata rivers, 172 miles, to Hollidaysburg, where it passes over the Alleghany mountain by a rail-road. The western division of the Pennsylvania canal extends from Johnstown to Pittsburg,104 miles. This completes the line of rail-roads from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, 395 miles. A canal extends from'the Pennsylvania canal, at the mouth of the Juniata river, and proceeds 39 miles to Northumberland, where it connects with the North and West Branch canals. The West Branch canal extends from Northumberland, along the West branch of the Susquehanna river, 75 miles, to Farrandsville, in Clinton county, reaching the bituminous coal-fields in that vicinity. The North Branch division extends from Northumberland, 73 miles, to a little above Wilkesbarre. The Delaware division of the Pennsylvania canal extends from the tide-water at Bris tol, 20 miles above Philadelphia, to Easton, at the mouth of the Lehigh, where it joins the navigation of the Lehigh company, extending to the coal region, 25 miles. The Schuylkill navigation commences at the Fairmount dam, near Phila delphia, and extends to Port Carbon, in Schuylkill county, the heart of the anthracite coal region. The Union canal extends from the Schuylkill, near Read ing, to Middletown, on the Susquehanna, 82 miles ; it has a navigable feeder of 23 miles on Swatara creek, which communicates with the coal region. The Sus quehanna or Tidewater canal commences at Wrightsville, opposite to Columbia, and extends 45 miles to Havre-de-Grace, in Maryland, and connects the Penn sylvania canal with the tide-water of Chesapeake bay. The Philadelphia and Reading rail-road extends from the west side of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, to Pottsville, in Schuylkill county, 90 miles, giving ready access to the coal region. There are many minor rail-roads, which have relation to the transportation of coal. The Alleghany Portage rail-road extends from Hollidaysburg to Johns town, 36^ miles, and connects the eastern and western divisions of the Pennsyl vania canal. The Philadelphia and Columbia rail-road, one of the most import ant in the State, extends from Philadelphia, 82 miles, to Columbia on the Sus quehanna. A rail-road extends through the south-eastern part of the State, leading from New York to Baltimore and Washington. The city of Philadelphia, the principal city of the State, and one of the most regularly laid out and handsomely built in the world, stands between the Dela ware and the Schuylkill rivers, about 5 miles above their junction, and 100 miles from the sea by the course of the former. It yields to none in the Union in the wealth, industry, and intelligence of its citizens. Philadelphia has the advantage of a double port, connected with very remote sections ; that on the Schuylkill is accessible to vessels of 300 tons, and is a great depot for the coal of the inte rior; th.e other, on the Delaware, admits the largest merchant-vessels to the doors of the warehouses, and is spacious and secure. The streets are broad and straight, crossing each other at right angles, and dividing the city into numerous squares, some of which have been reserved for public walks, and are ornamented with fine shade and flowering trees. The dwelling-houses are neat and commodious, and the public buildings, generally onstructed of white marble, are the most elegant in the country. Three bridges ross the Schuylkill; the wire suspension bridge is remarkable for its light and beautiful appearance. Numerous steam-boats afford constant communication 31 42 UNITED STATES. with Baltimore and New York, and, with the rail-roads into the interior, render this city the great thoroughfare between the north and south, and the east and west. Philadelphia includes the City Proper, with Southwark, Moyamensing, and Passyunk, on the south ; and Kensington, Northern Liberties, Spring Garden, and Penn Township, on the north ; having a population, in 1790, of 42,520; in 1810, of 96,664; in 1830, of 167,811 ; and in 1840, of 228,690. The manufactures of Philadelphia are various and extensive: her foreign com merce is considerable, the arrivals from foreign ports in 1835 having been 429, and the value of her imports being $5,000,000 a year; her inland commerce is also very extensive, and rapidly increasing, in consequence of the facilities afford ed by the numerous canals and rail-roads that centre here, affording an easy com munication with all sections of the State, and with the great western valley. There are about 500,000 barrels of flour and 3600 hogsheads of tobacco inspected, and upwards of 800,000 bushels of grain measured here, annually. The shipping belonging to the port in 1843, was 104,349 tons. There are in the city 14 banks, with a capital of $12,000,000. Philadelphia is noted for the number and excellence of its benevolent institu tions. Among these are the Pennsylvania Hospital, the Dispensary, Wills' Hospital for the lame and blind ; the institutions for the deaf and dumb, and for the blind ; the Almshouse, Magdalen Asylum, Orphan Asylums, Girard College for Orphans, &c. The Society for alleviating the miseries of public prisons, has not only distinguished itself by its successful efforts in reforming the penal code of the State, but in improving the conditions of the prisons : the discipline adopt ed by the influence of this society consists in solitary confinement with labour; and the penitentiaries of Pennsylvania are conducted on this plan. The learned institutions of Philadelphia are equally distinguished ; they are the American Philosophical Society, the Academy of Natural Sciences, the Pennsylvania His torical Society, and the Franklin Institute ; all of which have published some valuable volumes. The medical schools are also much frequented, and highly celebrated. The City Library, including the Loganian collection, consists of 53,000 volumes. There is also an Academy of Fine Arts here. Free schools are supported at the public charge, and educated, in 1843, 33,130 scholars, at an expense of $192,000. The principal public buildings are the Custom-house, late the United States Bank, on the model of the Parthenon, and the Pennsylvania Bank, of the Ionic order, both elegant specimens of classical architecture ; the Mint, a handsome building, with Ionic porticoes 62 feet long on each front; the Exchange, 95 feet by 114, containing a spacious hall, news-room, the post-office, &c. ; the Girard Bank; the Girard College, a splendid structure, 111 feet by 169, with a colonnade of Grecian Corinthian columns entirely surrounding it. All of these buildings are of white marble. The United States Marine Asylum, capable of accommodating 400 men, with a front of 385 feet; the Almshouse, on the west bank of the Schuylkill, consist ing of four distinct buildings, with nearly 400 rooms ; the State-house, interesting from its having been the place where the Declaration of Independence was adopt ed and promulgated; the United States Arsenal, &c., also deserve mention. There are here 144 churches and places of public worship, including 3 syna gogues. The State penitentiary and the county prison are not less remarkable for their architecture, than for their discipline. The county prison, built of Quincy granite, has a front of 310 feet, by 525 in depth. There is a navy-yard here, but ships of war of the largest class cannot ascend to the city with their armament. The inhabitants are liberally supplied with water, raised from the Schuylkill river, by the Fairmount works, constructed at an expense of $432,500 ; the daily consumption in summer is about 4,500.000 gallons, and supplies 26,549 tenants. Recently, the corporations of Spring Garden and the Northern Liberties have completed a similar work, on a smaller scale, for the supply of their districts with water independent of the city. The city proper and the Northern Liberties are lighted with gas, and the district of Kensington is about to be illuminated in the same manner. PENNSYLVANIA. 43 Frankford and Germantown are flourishing towns in the vicinity of Philadel phia. The former contains several manufacturing establishments, including cot ton-mills, calico-print works, &c. Near it are an arsenal of the United States, and a lunatic asylum belonging to the Friends. Germantown is a flourishing and pleasant town, with 5482 inhabitants, containing a bank, some manufactures, &c. The other most important places in Pennsylvania are Lancaster city, Harrisburg, Reading, Easton, and Pottsville, in the eastern section of the State ; in the west ern are Pittsburgh, Beaver, &c. The city of Lancaster, 62 miles west of Philadelphia, pleasantly situated in the fertile and highly cultivated Conestoga valley, is one of the handsomest in the State : the streets are regular, and among the public buildings are 12 churches, an academy, &c. Its trade is extensive, and the manufactures various and con siderable; it is noted for the superior quality of its rifles, coaches, rail-road cars, stockings, saddlery, &c. The population amounts to 8417. Lancaster is con nected with Philadelphia and Harrisburg by rail-roads, and with the Susquehanna. below Columbia, by a canal. Harrisburg, the capital of the State, stands on the left bank of the Susque hanna. The State-house is a neat and commodious building, from the cupola of which is one of the finest, panoramic views in the United States. Here are also a court-house, and a number of churches. Population in 1840, 5980. Beyond the Susquehanna are the thriving towns of Carlisle and Chambersbiirg ; the former containing 4351, and the latter 4030 inhabitants. Carlisle is the seat of Dickin son College. Reading, about 50 miles north-west from Philadelphia, is a prosperous town on the left bank of the Schuylkill, and at the termination of the Union canal. The town was laid out in 1748 by Thomas and Richard Penn, governors and proprie tors of the province ; it is regularly built, and was originally settled by Germans ; several newspapers are still printed in that language, though English is generally understood. More than 50,000 dozen wool hats have been manufactured here in a year, for the southern and western markets ; nails are also made to a consider able extent. Population, 8410. Easton, at the confluence of the Lehigh and the Delaware, and the termination of the Morris canal, is one of the most flourishing inland towns in the State. In its immediate neighbourhood are numerous flour-mills, "bil-mills, saw-mills, &c. The situation is highly picturesque, and it contains 2 banks, 5 churches, and La Fayette College, founded in 1832, which has 154 students. The population in 1840 was 4865. Pottsville is situated in a wild district on the Schuylkill, in the midst of the coal region. It contains many handsome dwellings, and its popu lation, which in 1825 did not exceed 300, amounted in 1840 to 4345. Mauch Chunk, first settled in 1821, is also built on very broken ground ; but, in addition to the coal trade, it enjoys the advantage of an extensive water-power, which is used for manufacturing purposes ; and its population at present exceeds 1800. Wilkesbarre stands in the delightful valley of Wyoming, whose rural beauty and peaceful shades, once stained with blood and desolated with fire, have been con secrated by the deathless muse. The population of Wilkesbarre in 1840 was 1718. Pittsburg, the principal city of Western Pennsylvania, is built at the junction of the Monongahela and the Alleghany. The city proper includes only the tract between the rivers; but, as the towns of Alleghanytown, Birmingham, &c., really form a part of Pittsburg, they must properly be included in its description. Per haps its site is unrivalled in the world, commanding a navigation of about 50,000 miles, which gives it access to the most fertile region on the face of the globe, surrounded by inexhaustible beds of the most useful minerals. Connected by artificial works which top the great natural barrier on the east* with the three principal cities of the Atlantic border on one side ; and by others, not less exten sive, with those great inland seas that already bear on their bosoms the trade of industrious millions, Pittsburg is doubtless destined to become one of the most important centres of population, industry and wealth, in the United States. The population of the place, in 1800, was about 1600; in 1820, 10,000; in 1830, 12,568; and, according to the census of 1840, 21,115. There are here 20 large UNITED STATES. founderies and engine factories, with numerous small works ; rolling-mills, cotton sstablishments, white-lead factories, breweries, saw and grist-mills, glass-works; with brass founderies, steel manufactories, tanneries, salt-works, paper-mills, manufactories of cutlery and agricultural implements, &c., are among the 374 nanufacturing establishments of Pittsburg. The city is regularly built; but the clouds of smoke in which it is constantly enveloped, give it rather a dingy ap pearance. Among the public establishments here, are the Alleghany arsenal, aelonging to the United States ; the Western Penitentiary of the State, the West- 3rn University, a Presbyterian and a Reformed theological seminary, 35 churches and places of worship, 60 common and 12 select schools, &c. A steam-engine supplies the city with 3,000,000 gallons of water daily. One of the most destruc tive fires that has occurred in the United Stales, took place here on the 17th of April, 1845. About 1000 buildings were consumed, besides a great amount of merchandise. The entire loss is estimated at from six to nine million dollars. In the district to the south of Pittsburg, Washington, Brownsville, and Union, are thriving towns. Canonsburg is the seat of Jefferson College. Below Pitts- jurg is the borough of Beaver, at the mouth of Beaver river ; in the vicinity are several small but thriving towns, which are indebted for their prosperity to the great water-power afforded by the falls of that stream. Numerous mills and manufacturing establishments have recently been erected on both sides of the, river, and the whole population of the neighbourhood is about 5000. The falls are 5 miles from the Ohio river ; their descent is about 69 feet. Fallston and New Brighton at their foot, and Brighton and Sharon lower down, are all within a short distance from each other. Erie, on the lake of the same name, is important on account of its harbour, which is protected by several piers. This place is increasing rapidly, and bids fair to become of considerable commercial importance. By the completion of the Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal, it is now connected with Pittsburg, on the Ohio river. Population, 3412. STATE OF DELAWARE. THE boundaries of this State are, on the north, Pennsylvania; on the south, Maryland ; on the east, Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean ; and, on the west, Pennsylvania and Maryland. The extent from north to south is 90 miles ; from east to west, 25 miles ; area in square miles, 2120. The principal streams, besides the Delaware, which forms a part of its boundary, are Brandywine creek, Christiana creek, Duck creek, Mis- pillion creek, and Indian, Choptank, and Nanticoke rivers. The general aspect of Delaware is that of an extended plain, mostly favourable for cultivation. On the table-land forming the dividing ridge between the Dela ware and Chesapeake Bays, is a chain of swamps, from which the waters descend in one direction to Chesapeake, and in the other to Delaware Bay. The upper part of the State is generally a fine tract of country, and well adapted to the growing of wheat and other grains. The staple commodity, however, is wheat, which is produced of a superior quality. Brandywine creek, in the upper part oi the State, furnishes water-power for great and growing manufacturing establish ments. The chief articles are flour, cottons, woollens, paper, and gunpowder. Delaware contains but few minerals ; in the county of Sussex, and among the branches of the Nanticoke, are large quantities of bog iron-ore, well adapted for casting ; but it is not wrought to any extent. The population of Delaware in 1790 was 59,094; in 1800, 64,272; in 1810 72,674 ; in 1820, 72,749 ; in 1830, 76,739 ; in 1840, 78,085. Of these, 2605 were slaves ; 29,259 were white males ; 29,302, white females ; 8626, free coloured males; 8293, free coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 16,015; in com merce, 467 ; in manufactures and trades, 4060 ; navigating the ocean, 401 ; navi gating rivers and canals, 235 ; in the learned professions and engineers, 199. DELAWARE. 45 In tliis State there were, in 1840, 14,421 horses and mules ; 58,833 neat cattle; 39,247 sheep ; 74,228 swine ; poultry was valued a^ $47,265. There were pro duced, 315,165 bushels of wheat; 33,546 of rye; 2,099,359 of Indian corn; 927,405 of oats ; 5260 of barley ; 11,299 of buckwheat, and 200,712 of potatoes ; 22,483 tons of hay ; 64,404 pounds of wool ; 1458 of silk cocoons. The products of the dairy amounted to $113,828 ; and of the orchard, to $28,211. The exports n 1840 amounted to $37,001, and the imports to $802. Capital employed in the fisheries, $170,000. The manufactures of Delaware are more extensive than its commerce. Home made or family goods were produced to the amount of $62,116; 2 woollen facto ries produced articles to the amount of $104,700, employing a capital of $107,000 ; 1 cotton factories produced articles to the value of $332,272, employing a capital of $330,500 ; 18 tanneries employed a capital of $89,300 ; 75 other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., manufactured articles to the amount of $166,037, mployinga capital of $161,630; 27 powder-mills manufactured 2,100,000 pounds f gunpowder, employing a capital of $220,000; 21 flouring-mills manufactured 76,194 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $737,971, employing a capital of $291,150; ships were built to the amount of $35,400. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $1,589,212. There is but one college in the State Newark College, at Newark, founded n 1833; it has 100 students, and a library of 3500 volumes. There were, in 1840, 20 academies in the State, with 761 students, and 152 primary and common schools, with 6924 scholars ; there were in the State 4832 white persons, above he age of 20, who could neither read nor write. Of the principal religious denominations, the Presbyterians, in 1836, had 15 ministers; the Methodists, 15; the Episcopalians-, 6 ministers; the Baptists had 9 churches, and 5 ministers; the Roman Catholics had 2 ministers. There were also some few Friends. Several important works of internal improvement have been completed. The Chesapeake and Delaware canal commences at Delaware city, on the Delaware river, and extends 14 miles to Back creek, a tributary of Elk river. It is 60 feet ,vide at the top, and 10 feet deep ; has two lift and two tide-locks, 100 feet by 22 bet in the chamber ; completed in 1829, and cost $2,750,000. It is navigable for sloops and steamboats. The New Castle and Frenchtown rail-road extends from New Castle, on the Delaware, 35 miles below Philadelphia, to Frenchtown, on the Elk river, which enters Chesapeake Bay. It is 16 miles, and connects with steamboats on the Delaware and Chesapeake. The city of Wilmington, pleasantly situated near the junction of the Brandy- wine and Christiana, is a well-built, growing town, and the most important in the State. It contains an arsenal, hospital, 16 churches, &c., and is supplied with water by water-works on the Brandy wine. Its trade is considerable, and it sends several ships to the whale-fishery. In the immediate vicinity there are about 100 mills and manufactories, producing flour, paper, iron-ware, powder, and cotton and woollen goods ; the Brandywine flour-mills are among the most extensive in the Unit-.d States. Population in 1840,8367. New Castle, below Wilmington, is at the eastern termination of the rail-road to Frenchtown ; it contains about 1200 inhabitants. Dover, the seat of government, contains the State-house, and about 600 inhabitants. Lewistown is a village near Cape Henlopen, in front of which has been erected the Delaware Breakwater. The work consists of two piers, an ice-breaker 1500 feet in length, and a breakwater 3600 feet long; cost, $-2,216,950. STATE OF MARYLAND. MARYLAND is bounded north by Pennsylvania and Delaware ; east by Dela ware and the Atlantic ; south-west and west by Virginia. Length 196 miles, and 120 miles in breadth ; area in square miles 10,950, in acres 7,008,000. The principal rivers are the Potomac, which divides it from Virginia ; the Susque- UNITED STATES. hanna, Patapsco, Pawtuxent, Elk, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, and Pocomoko. The maritime part of this State is penetrated far into the interior by Chesa peake Bay, as a vast river dividing it into two distinct portions, called the eastern and western shores. These shores include a level, low, and alluvial country, intersected by tide-water rivers and creeks, and, like the same tracts of country farther south, are subject to intermittents. Above the tide-waters, the land again becomes agreeably undulating. Beyond this commence the Alleghany moun tains, with their numerous ridges; the valleys between them are of a loamy and rich soil, yielding fine wheat and all the productions of the middle, together with some of those of the southern States. The national road passes through the wide and fertile valleys in which Frederick and Hagerstown are situated, being broad belts of the same admirable soil which is seen in Lancaster county, Pennsylvania. Among these mountains and hills the air is elastic, the climate salubrious, and the waters clear and transparent. In manufactures and commerce, Maryland sustains a very respectable rank ; numerous woollen and cotton-mills, copper and iron rolling-mills, are established in and near Baltimore, and are also scattered over other parts of the State. Flour and tobacco are the staple productions; the exports of the former are very great, and, of the latter, the product is considerable and of excellent quality. The herring and- shad fisheries are actively carried on, and yield valuable returns, con stituting an important article of trade, as well as of home consumption ; the com merce of Maryland is extensive, and her ports serve as the outlets of large tracts of productive country in Virginia, Pennsylvania, and the western States, whose consumption is also in part supplied through the same channels. The population in 1790 was 319,728 ; in 1800, 345,824; in 1810, 380,546; in 1820, 407,350; in 1830, 446,913; in 1840,469,232, of whom 89,495 were slaves. Of the free population, 1.58,636 were white males, and 159,081 white females; 29,173 were coloured males, and 32,847 coloured females. Employed in agri- .culture, 60,851; in commerce, 3249; in manufactures and trades, 21,325; in navigating the ocean, 721 ; in navigating canals, rivers, &c., 1519 ; in the learned professions, 1647. There were in the State, in 1840, 92,920 horses and mules; 225,714 neat cat tle; 257,922 sheep; 416,943 swine; poultry was raised to the value of $218,765. There were produced, 3,345,783 bushels of wheat; 723,577 of rye; 8,233,086 of Indian corn ; 73,606 of buckwheat ; 3594 of barley ; 3,534,211 of oats ; 1,036,433 of potatoes; 488,201 pounds of wool; 24,816,013 of tobacco; 5673 of cotton; 2290 of silk cocoons; 36,266 of sugar; 106,687 tons of hay. The products of the dairy amounted to $457,456; of the orchard, to $105,740; of lumber, to $266,977; and 7585 gallons of wine were made. The exports of this State in 1840 amounted to $5,768,768, and the imports to $4,910,746. Of the principal manufactures, home-made or family articles amounted to $176,050; 39 fulling-mills and 29 woollen manufactories produced articles to the amount of $325,900, employing a capital of $117,630 ; 21 cotton manufactories produced articles to the value of $1,150,580, employing a capital of $1,304,400 ; 12 furnaces produced 8876 tons of cast-iron, and 17 furnaces produced 7901 tons of bar-iron, and employed a capital of $795,650; 73 distilleries produced 366,213 gallons of spirits, and 11 breweries produced 828,140 gallons of beer, the whole employing a capital of 185,790 ; 408 saddleries and other manufactories of leather produced articles to the amount of $1,050,275, employing a capital of $434,127; 189 flour-mills produced 446,708 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $3,267,250, and employed a capital of $4,069,671 ; ships were built to the amount of $279,771 ; capital employed in the fisheries, $88,947. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures in this State was $6,450,284. St. John's College, at Annapolis, was founded in 1784. St. Mary's College, at Baltimore, was founded by the Roman Catholics, in 1799. The Baltimore Medical School, founded in 1807 ; and in 1812 there were, added to it the faculties of general science, law, and divinity, and it received the name of the University MARYLAND. 47 of Maryland. Mount St. Mary's College was established at Emmettsburg, in 1830, by the Roman Catholics. These institutions had, in 1840, 400 students. There were in the State 127 academies, or grammar-schools, with 4178 students ; and 507 common and primary schools, with 16,982 scholars. In this State there were, in 1840, 11,605 white persons, above 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. Of religious denominations, the Roman Catholics are the most numerous. They have an archbishop, who is metropolitan of the United States, and 60 churches. The Episcopalians have 77 ministers ; the Presbyterians have 25 ministers ; the Baltimore Methodist conference, which extends into neighbouring States, has 172 travelling preachers ; the Baptists have 20 ministers; the German Reformed have 9 ministers. There are also Lutherans, Friends, Unitarians, &c. Two of the greatest works of internal improvement in the United States have been projected and commenced in Maryland ; the first is the Chesapeake and Ohio canal, which commences at Georgetown, D. C., and is designed to extend 341 miles to Pittsburg. This is the work of a joint-stock company, chartered by the States of Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania, and sanctioned by Con gress. It was commenced in 1828, and is completed to Hancock, 136 miles. Considerable work has been done between this and Cumberland, where a spacious basin is in process of erection. It is extended 7 miles to Alexandria, on the southern part. A completion to Cumberland will open a vast and rich coal region. The Baltimore and Ohio rail-road is designed to extend from Baltimore to the Ohio river at Wheeling, 360 miles, and is the second great work. It was incor porated by the legislatures of Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania, in 1827, and commenced July 4th, 1828. It is completed from Baltimore to Cumberland. There is a side-cut over 2 miles to Frederick. A rail-road extends across the State, passing through Baltimore, and which forms part of the great chain from New York and Philadelphia to Washington. This road proceeds on the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, 8 miles, from the former place. The Baltimore and Susquehanna rail-road extends 56 miles from Baltimore to York, Pa. A rail-road 19| miles long extends from the Baltimore and Washington rail-road to Annapolis. A rail-road extends from Frenchtown to New Castle, Del., connect ing the Delaware and Chesapeake Bays. The same is effected by a canal extend ing from Back creek, a tributary of Elk river, to Delaware city, on the Delaware, 42 miles below Philadelphia. It is 66 feet wide at the top, 10 feet deep, and affords a passage to vessels requiring that depth of water. Baltimore, the principal city of the State, and, in point of population, the third in the Union, slands on an arm of Patapsco Bay, about 14 miles from the Chesa peake, and 200 from the sea, by the ship channel. The harbour is capacious and safe, and consists of an inner basin, into which vessels of 200 tons can enter, and an outer harbour, at Fell's Point, accessible to the largest merchant-ships. The entrance is commanded and defended by Fort M' Henry. Baltimore possesses nearly the whole trade of Maryland, that of part of Western Virginia and Penn sylvania, and the Western States ; and its inland communication has been ex tended and facilitated by the construction of the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road. Manufactures of cotton, woollen, paper, powder, chemicals, pottery, &c., are also carried on in the city and neighbourhood. Baltimore is the greatest flour market in the world; in 1840, there were inspected 764,115 barrels, and 31,606 half barrels of flour. Its tonnage in 1840 was 76,022. The foreign trade employed a capital of $4,404,500; the retail trade, $6,708,611; and the manufactures, $2,729,983. Baltimore has 9 banks, with an aggregate capital of $2,500,000, and 9 insurance companies. The public buildings are 105 churches, 2 hospitals, 2 theatres, a circus, museum, penitentiary, exchange, the college and university halls, &c. The Battle Monument, erected in memory of the successful defence of the city, when attacked by the British in 1814, is an elegant marble obelisk, 35 feet high, on which are inscribed the names of those who fell in that gallant affair. The Washington Monument is the most splendid structure of the kind in the country ; it is a Doric column of white marble, with a circular staircase inside, by which you ascend to the top; the column is 180 feet in height, and 20 feet in 16* Y """ "" 48 UNITED STATES. diameter at bottom; it stands upon a base 23 feet high, and is surmounted by a colossal statue of the Father of his Country. The exchange is a large and hand some edifice, 366 feet by 140; the Roman Catholic cathedral is, perhaps, the finest church in the country, and it contains some good paintings. The citizens of Baltimore are not more distinguished for their bold and persevering enterprise, than for hospitality and agreeable manners. In 1765, there were not more than fifty houses on the site of the city; in 1800, the population had increased to 23,971 ; and in 1840, to 102,313. .. The city of Annapolis, agreeably situated on the Severn river, three miles from Chesapeake Bay, is the capital of the State. It is regularly laid out, with the streets diverging from the State-house and the Episcopal church. The State- house is a handsome building, in which the Old Congress held some of their sessions ; and the Senate chamber, in which Washington resigned his commis sion, has been preserved unaltered ; here is likewise the State library of 10,000 volumes. Annapolis is also the seat of St. John's College. The channel to the city is narrow and difficult. Population, 2792. Frederick city, 47 miles west of Baltimore, is, in point of wealth, elegance, and population, the second city in Maryland. It is connected with the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road by a branch road of 2| miles. The population, in 1840, 5182. North-west from Frederick city, and near the north line of the State, is Hagerstown, a well-built and flourishing town, containing the usual county buildings, several churches and academies, and a population of 3750 souls. Williamsport, at the mouth of the Conococheague, is a flourishing village on the route of the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, and the Chesapeake and Ohio canal. Population, 500. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. THIS is a territory of ten miles square, under the immediate government of Congress, and therefore is not represented in that body. It is divided into two counties and three cities, the counties and cities being separate. The cities are Washington, Alexandria, and Georgetown ; the counties, Washington and Alex andria. This district lies on both sides of the Potomac, 120 miles from its mouth, between Maryland and Virginia, and was ceded to the general govern ment by those States in 1790. The population of the District amounted, in 1840, to 43,712, of which 4694 were slaves, and 8361 free blacks. The city of Washington was laid out, under the superintendence of the great man whose name it bears, in 1791, and became the seat of government in the year 1800. It stands in the centre of the District, upon the north bank of the Potomac, between the river and the East Branch, one of its tributaries. The plan of the city combines regularity with variety, and is adapted to the variations of the surface, so that the spaces allotted to public buildings occupy commanding posi tions, and the monotonous sameness of a rectangular design is avoided, while all its advantages are secured. The minor streets run at right angles, but the larger avenues diverge from several centres, intersecting the streets with various degrees of obliquity, and opening spaces for extensive squares. The smaller streets run north and south, east and west, and are from 90 to 110 feet wide. The grand avenues are from 130 to 160 feet in width, and are planted with trees. Several of the largest unite at the hill on which the Capitol is situated. These bear the names of the several States of the Union. Washington is the residence of the President of the United States, and of the other chief executive officers of the Federal Government, and of foreign ministers to the United States. Congress meets here annually on the first Monday of December, and the Supreme Federal Court holds its annual sessions here. The population of the city is 23,364, including 4808 free blacks, and 1713 slaves ; but, during the session of Congress, the city is thronged with visitors from all parts of the world. The buildings which it contains are in three distinct parts ; one portion being in the neighbourhood of the navy-yard, another in that DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 49 of the Capitol, and another on Pennsylvania Avenue, which extends from the Capitol to the President's house. The Capitol is a large and magnificent building of freestone, 352 feet long, in the shape of a cross, with the Representatives' Hall and the Senate Chamber in the two wings, and a spacious rotunda in the centre. The Hall of Representa tives is semicircular, 95 feet in length, and 60 in height, lighted from the top ; it is one of the most elegant halls in the world. The Senate Chamber is of the same shape, and 74 feet long. The rotunda is 96 feet in diameter, and is 96 feet high to the top of the dome within. It is all of marble, and the floor is beauti fully paved ; the whole has a most grand and imposing effect. Several pieces of sculpture are placed in niches in the walls, representing events in American history. The sound of a single voice uttered in this apartment is echoed from the dome above with, a rumbling like distant thunder. The National Library is contained in the Capitol, and embraces also a series of national paintings by Trumbull. The President's house, also of freestone, is two stories high, with a lofty base ment, and it has a front of 180 feet, adorned with an Ionic portico ; it is surrounded by extensive grounds. On each side are the four offices of the executive depart ments ; on the west are the War and Navy, and on the east the State and Trea sury departments. The General Post-office, recently built of marble, is situated about half-way between the President's house and the Capitol ; near it is the Patent Office, a handsome edifice of freestone, the upper part of which is occupied by the National Institute. There are also here an arsenal and a navy-yard, with a city hall, an hospital, penitentiary, insane asylum, 21 churches, the halls of Columbia College, &c. A branch of the Chesapeake and Ohio canal terminates in the city. Georgetown is about three miles west of the Capitol, and. is pleasantly situated, commanding a prospect of the river, the neighbouring city, and the diversified country in the vicinity. The houses are chiefly of brick, and there are many ele gant villas in different parts. The Catholic College here is a respectable institu tion. Georgetown is a thriving place, and 4 has considerable commerce ; but the navigation of the river is obstructed by a bar just below the town ; here is also a cannon foundery, 4 banks, 7 churches, &c. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal commences at this place. Population, 7312. The city of Alexandria, six miles below Washington, on the opposite side of the Potomac, carries on an extensive trade in flour, tobacco, &c. The city is regularly laid out; it has a good harbour, with commodious wharves, and is accessible to the largest ships. Here are a High School, a girls' boarding-school, under the charge of the Sisters of Charity, an Orphan Asylum, 10 churches, several tanneries, engine manufactories, foun- deries, cotton-mills, &c. Population, 8459. A branch of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal extends from Georgetown to this place. SOUTHERN STATES. THE States of Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Ala bama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, are those usually termed the Southern States : the whole region extends from the Potomac to the Sabine river : its coasts are washed on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the south by the Gulf of Mexico. The area of the whole region is about 420,000 square miles. The tract of country in the Southern States bordering on the Atlantic, is a low sandy plain, from 50 to 100 miles broad, and, in general, covered with pine forests. Beyond this, towards the Alleghanies, it becomes elevated and hilly, and then mountainous. Those portions of Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, which bor der on the Gulf of Mexico, are low and level. In the interior they are diversi fied, and in some parts mountainous. The low countries in all the Southern States are mostly barren, except on the borders of rivers, where the soil is very fertile. The inhabitants of the Southern States are nearly all occupied with agricul- ture. The commerce, which is extensive, is principally in the hands of foreign- 32 50 UNITED STATES. ers, or of their northern countrymen, and carried on in northern vessels. The great staples of this region are cotton, rice, sugar, and tobacco : nearly the whole of the cotton crop of the United States is raised here, which, with rice and sugar, is confined to its southern section : in the northern the principal productions are tobacco, wheat, and corn: in the low regions of the Carolinas, pitch-pine grows in great perfection ; and tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber, are the staples of these districts. Gold is almost exclusively confined to the upper and middle portions of this region, and is now so extensively found as to have become an object of national importance. The rivers of the Southern States, south of Chesapeake Bay, are generally dis tinguished by sluggish currents, and sand-bars at their mouths. Although there is no stream, exclusively belonging to this section of the Union, that can be ranked in point of extent with the great rivers of the country, there are several which, from the length of their course and the volume of waters which they flow, would in other countries be considered as large streams ; and there are not a few which furnish useful navigable channels. The population is chiefly of English descent, but is in some places somewhat mixed. There are many descendants of the French and Spanish, particularly in Louisiana and Florida. In Louisiana the French language is extensively spoken, and the laws and some of the newspapers are printed both in that tongue and in English. The negroes, who form more than two-fifths of the population, constitute a separate class, an^ r e mostly held in slavery. The Indians were formerly nu merous and c' ^d several powerful tribes, but they have mostly emigrated westward. ^w Cherokees, Choctaws, and Chickasaws, still remain, but art all under br-..iy stipulations to remove, and will doubtless soon rejoin the tribes beyond the Mississippi. The inhabitants of the Southern States are seldom collected together in villages and towns, like their northern countrymen, but live in a scattered manner ove the country. This is in a measure owing to the predominance of agriculture ove commercial and mechanical occupations, but principally to the circumstance tha the bulk of the labour is performed by slaves. Instead of small proprietors tilling; their little farm with their own hands, we here find extensive plantations culti vated under the direction of the owner or his agent, who merely attends to the pecuniary affairs, directs the operations and oversees the labourers. This state ol things has a decided influence upon the manners and character of the people, ye there are individual differences so great that no general description will applj equally to the Virginian, the Carolinian, and the Louisianian. Generosity, grea hospitality, a high sense of honour, and a manly independence of thought am conduct, are among the favourable traits of the southern character. The poore class of whites are in general less frugal and industrious, and enjoy fewer advan tages in respect to education and religious instruction than the same class in th< Northern States. Population of the Southern States, in 1840, 4,648,991, of whom 1,944,748 were slaves, and 112,710 free blacks. COMMONWEALTH OF VIRGINIA. NATURE has bestowed on Virginia advantage of position, soil, climate, and navi gable rivers. She is often distinguished by the title of the Ancient Dominion probably from the circumstance of her having been the first settled of the colonies This State is bounded on the north by Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Ohio ; soutl by North Carolina and Tennessee ; east by Maryland and the Atlantic Ocean, anc on the west by Kentucky and Ohio. Extent from north to south, 220 miles ; frorr east to west, 370 miles. Area, about 64,000 square miles. Every portion of Virginia is penetrated by fine rivers and streams, useful eithe as channels of navigation, or for mechanical purposes. The principal rivers are the Potomac, Shenandoah, James, Rappahannock, Mattapony, Pamunky, York Rivanna, Appomattox, Elizabeth, Nottoway, Meherrin, Staunton, Ohio, Sandy Great Kanawha, Little Kanawha, and the Monongahela and its principal branches VIRGINIA. 51 The Alleghany range of mountains, with its numerous ridges, covers the whole uiddle section of this State, and gives it a rugged surface. The country east of the mountains descends gradually to the flat and sandy alluvion of the coast, rhe district west of Jthe mountains is hilly. The soil varies greatly, being sandy ind sterile on the coast, very fertile on the banks of rivers, and productive in the valleys of the Alleghanies. The climate is equally varied, being hot, moist, and unhealthy in the lower alluvial country, and cool and salubrious among the moun tains. To the productions common to the northern and middle sections of the Union, this State adds the sweet-potato, the finest tobacod, and in the southern sarts cotton as a crop. The productions of the north and the south, apples and wheat, cotton and tobacco, meet here as in Tennessee in the western country. The temperature, soil, and circumstances, are supposed to be favourable in the lighest degree to the cultivation of the grape and the silk mulberry. The mineral wealth of Virginia is boundless ; gold, copper, lead, iron, coal, salt, imestone, marls, gypsum, magnesian, copperas, and alum earths, thermal, chaly beate, and sulphuretted springs, excellent marbles, granites, soap-stones and sand stones, &c., are among the treasures as yet for the most part lying idle in the bowels of the earth. Mining industry has, however, recently taken a start, and will doubtless soon afford profitable employment to many of the inhabitants. Of the metallic products of Virginia, gold is one of the most important It is found on both sides of the North arid Rapid Ann rivers, of the North and South Anna near their heads, of the Rivanna in the lower part of its course, and of the James river above and below the mouth of the Rivanna. The belt of country in which this metal exists, extends through Spottsylvania, and some neighbouring counties, in a south-west direction, into North and South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama. In this State the gold is diffused over large surfaces, and has not been found sufficiently in mass, except in a few places, to make mining profitable ; about $52,000 worth was obtained in 1840. Vast fields of coal exist in Virginia, both of the bituminous and anthracite kinds ; of the former, great beds have been found spreading over an extent of many miles, in which the seams are sometimes 30, 40, and even 60 feet thick, and of excellent quality. Coal has been mined and exported in considerable quantities from the vicinity of Richmond, for many years past. Iron ore exists also in vast quantities, in various parts ; in some places it is found between immense layers of coal. Salt springs occur at various places ; at some of which works for manufacturing the water into salt have been erected : the most important are on the Great Ka- nawha river, in the vicinity of Charleston. The quantity made here is about I 1,500,000 bushels annually; 70 gallons of brine yielding 1 bushel of salt. Vir ginia contains a profusion of mineral springs, of great and various virtues, many of which have acquired much reputation for their medicinal properties, and som^e of them are much resorted to. The population in 1790 was 747,610; in 1800, 886,149; in 1810, 074,622; in 1820, 1,065,366; in 1830, 1,211,272; in 1840, 1,239,797; of whom 448,987 were slaves. Of the free population, 371,223 were white males; 369,745 white females; 23,814 were coloured males; 26,020 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 318,771; in mining, 1995; in commerce, 6361 ; in manufactures and trades, 54,147; in navigating the ocean, 582; do. canals, rivers, &c., 2952 ; in the learned professions, 3866. There were in the State, in 1840, 326,438 mules and horses; 1,024,148 neat cattle; 1,293,772 sheep; 1,992,155 swino. Poultry was raised to the value of $754,698. There were produced, 10,109,716 bushels of wheat; 1,482,799 of rye; 87,430 of barley; 243,822 of buckwheat; 34,577,591 of Indian corn; 13,457,062 of oats; 2,944,660 of potatoes ; 2,538,374 pounds of wool ; 75,347,106 of tobacco; 2956 of rice; 3,494,483 of cotton ; 1,541,833 of sugar; 3191 of silk cocoons; 364,708 tons of hay; 25,594 of hemp and flax; 1,500,000 bushels of salt. The products of the dairy were valued at $1,480,488; of the orchard, at $705,765; of lumber, at $538,092; and 13,911 gallons of wine were made. The exports of the State for the year ending September 30th, 1841, were UNITED STATES. $5,630,286, and the imports were $337,237. The tonnage entered was 34,275 ; and the tonnage cleared was 63,243. The manufactures of Virginia are not so extensive as those of many States inferior to it in territory and population. Home-made or family manufactures amounted, in 1840, to $2,441, 672; 47 fulling-mills and 41 woollen manufactories employed a capital of $112,350, and produced articles to the amount of $147,792 ; 22 cotton manufactories produced articles to the amount of $446,063, with a capi tal of $1,299,020; 42 furnaces produced 18,810 tons of cast-iron, and 52 forges produced 5886 tons of bar-iron, employing a capital of $1,246,650; 11 smelting houses produced golcfeto the amount of $51,758, employing a capital of $103,650 ; 5 smelting houses produced 878,648 pounds of lead, with a capital of $21,500; 12 paper-mills produced articles to the amount of $216,245; 3342 persons manu factured tobacco to the amount of $2,406,671, employing a capital of $1,526,080; 764 flouring-mills produced 1,041,526 barrels of flour, and with other mills pro duced articles to the amount of $7,855,499, employing capital to the amount of $5,184,669 ; vessels were built to the amount of $136,807 ; capital employed in the fisheries, $28,383. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures in the State, was $11,360,861. William and Mary's College, at Williamsburg, is the oldest in the State, and one of the oldest in the country, founded in 1691 ; Hampden Sydney College, in Prince Edward county, was founded in 1783, and is flourishing; Washington College, at Lexington, was founded in 1812 ; Randolph Macon College, at Boyd- town, was founded in 1832. There are theological schools at Richmond, in Prince Edward and Fairfax counties. The most important literary institution in the State is the University of Virginia, at Charlottesville, founded in 1819. In the above colleges, and a few others, there were, in 1840, 1097 students; there were in the State, 382 academies, with 11,083 students; and 1561 common and primary schools, with 35,331 scholars. There were in the State, 58,787 white persons over 20 years of age who could neither read nor write. The Baptists, ' the most numerous religious denomination, had, in 1836, 435 churches, 261 ministers, and 54,302 communicants; the Methodists had 168 ministers and 41,763 communicants; the Presbyterians had 117 churches, 90 ministers, and 11,413 communicants; the Episcopalians had one bishop, one assistant bishop, 65 ministers, and about 3000 communicants ; the Lutherans had 24 congregations and 7 ministers; the Reformed Baptists (Campbellites) had about 10,000 communicants; the Roman Catholics had 10 congregations; the Unitarians had one minister ; there were also some Friends and Jews. Virginia has undertaken several important works of internal improvement, by chartering private companies, which have been aided liberally by the State. The Dismal Swamp Canal connects Chesapeake Bay with Albermarle Sound, extend ing from Deep Creekj a tributary of the former, to Joyce's Creek, a branch of Pasquotank river, of Albermarle Sound, 23 miles long. It has branches of 11 miles. A canal extends along James river, from Richmond to Lynchburg; and this communication is designed to be extended by canal and rail-road to the Ohio river, by the Great Kanawha. No other spot between New York and Georgia presents an equally favourable country for a line of communication across the Alleghany mountains. The whole length will be about 425 miles. A rail-road extends from the Potomac river, at the mouth of the Aquia Creek, to Fredericks- burg, and thence to Richmond, in the whole 75 miles. It proceeds from Rich mond to Petersburg, 23 miles, and from Petersburg to Weldon, on the Roanoke river, 59 miles, where it unites with the rail-road to Wilmington, N. C. A rail road proceeds from a point on the Fredericksburg and Richmond road, north-west to Gordonsville, 50 miles. A rail-road extends from Petersburg to City Point, 12 miles. Another extends from Winchester 32 miles to Harper's Ferry, where it unites with the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road. Greensville rail-road connects the Petersburg and Roanoke rail-road with the Raleigh and Gaston rail-road, N. C., extending from Hicksford, 18 miles to Gaston. The Chesterfield rail-road, 13^ miles long, extends from the Chesterfield coal-basin to tide-water in James river, at Manchester, opposite Richmond. Richmond, the capital of the State, and its principal city, stands on several VIRGINIA. 53 eminences, which command fine views of the surrounding country, and give to the city an air of singular beauty. The western division occupies a high plain called Shockoe Hill, overlooking the lower town, and containing a beautiful square of about ten acres, which is adorned with fine shade trees, and laid out in gravelled walks ; here, in a commanding situation, stands the Capitol or State- House, one of the most elegant structures in the Unjted States, containing a statue of Washington by Houdon; and contiguous to it is the City Hall, a neat edifice of the Doric order. The other public buildings are the Armory, Peni tentiary, 16 churches, a theatre, &c. The city is supplieoWith pure water from three reservoirs, each containing 1,000,000 gallons, and filled by two pumps, which raise at the rate of 800,000 gallons in the 24 hours. Richmond is 110 miles from the mouth of the river, which carries 15 feet of water to within a few miles of the city, and affords boat navigation for 220 miles above the falls. These advantages enable it to carry on an extensive trade, both inland and by sea ; the annual value of the exports being about 6,000,000 dollars, in addition to a valu able coasting trade. Large quantities of wheat, flour, tobacco, &c., are brought down by the James River Canal. The falls of the river immediately above the city afford an unlimited water-power, which is largely applied to manufacturing purposes; there are here 21 flouring-mills, making annually 75,000 barrels of flour; an extensive iron-works, with which is connected rolling and slitting mills, and nail factories, besides numerous tobacco factories, a large cotton mill, paper mill, &c. The capital employed in manufacturing, in 1840, amounted to $1,372,950. Population, in 1840, 21,153. Manchester, on the south side of James river, is connected with Richmond by Mayo's Bridge. It contains several factories, 360 houses, and about 1500 inhabitants. A rail-road extends from this place 13 miles westward, to the coal-mines, which yield a million bushels of coal annually. The principal sea-port of this State is Norfolk, which is situated on the Eliza beth river, eight miles from Hampton Roads. Its harbour is deep and capacious easy of access, and perfectly secure; the Road, an expansion of James river just above its mouth, affords the finest anchorage in the world, and is capable of con taining its united navies. The entrance, between Old Point Comfort and a sand bar called the Rip Raps, is rather more than a mile in width, and is defended by Fort Monroe and Fort Calhoun. Thp favourable situation of Norfolk, in regard to the sea, and its connexion with the interior by means of the Dismal Swamp Canal and the Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail-road, have made it the chief com mercial dep6t of Virginia, and, in 1840, 19,079 tons of shipping belonged to the port. The town is built on low ground, and the neighbourhood is marshy ; the principal streets are well paved and clean, but the others are less commodious and more irregular. The buildings are not distinguished for elegance, but some improvements have been made of late years in this respect. There are 8 churches, 3 banks, a marine hospital, a theatre, lyeeum, &c., and a population of 10,920. At Gosport, in Portsmouth, on the opposite side of the river, is one of the most important navy-yards of the United States, containing a magnificent dry-dock, of hewn granite, constructed at a cost of 974,356 dollars. Population of Portsmouth, 6500. Suffolk is a thriving little town to the south-west, with 1500 inhabitants ; it stands on the Nansernond river, and is accessible to vessels of 100 tons. Petersburg, on the right bank of the Appomattox river, is a handsome and flou rishing town, with 11,136 inhabitants-, 'combining an active trade in cotton, flour, and tobacco, with manufacturing industry. Vessels drawing seven feet of water come up to the town, but large ships unload at City Point, at the mouth of the river. The falls of the Appomattox furnish ample water-power, and there are here several cotton-mills, merchant flour-mills, grist, and saw-mills, rope-walks, woollen factory, &c. Some distance, above Petersburg, and also on the Appo mattox river, is Farmville, a flourishing town, incorporated in 1832 ; it contains 2 large tobacco warehouses, 5 tobacco factories, and various mechanic shops. Population about 1000. North-west from Richmond, and on the Rivanna river, is Charlottesville, with about 1000 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated in a charming valley, and de rives its interest from its being the seat of the Virginia University. The halls of this ig the seat of the Virginia University, fine collection of buildings. Three i valuable institution form a fine collection of buildings. Three miles from Char- 54 UNITED STATES. lottesville is Monticello, the seat of the late President Jefferson. The mansion occupies a lofty summit of the South-West Mountain, 500 feet above the Rivanna, and commands a view of the Blue Ridge on the west, and of the low country as far is the eye can reach on the east. A simple granite obelisk over the grave of Jefferson bears this inscription, written by himself: Thomas Jefferson, Author of the Declaration of Independence, and Founder of the University of Virginia. Nearly west from Richmond, and 120 miles distant, is Lynchburg, situated on the southern bank of James river. It is a neat and flourishing town, carrying on an active trade, and containing some manufactories. The water-power afforded by the river is partially^ employed in propelling a cotton-mill, and several saw and flour-mills ; and there are here tanneries, tobacco factories, &e. Several hand some packet-boats ply daily on the river, between this place and Richmond. The town is supplied with water from a reservoir containing 400,000 gallons, fed by a double forcing-pump, and placed at such an elevation as to throw a copious stream over the tops of the houses. Lynchburg is one of the largest tobacco markets in the world ; from 15,000,000 to 20,000,000 pounds are inspected annually. Population, 6395. Danville, on the Dan river, which is navigable by boats some distance above, is a flourishing village, with 1200 inhabitants; its position commands some trade, and there are some manufactories here. The Great Valley Section consists of an elevated table-land between the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany chain, from 1200 to 1500 feet above the sea. It is, however, traversed by several mountain chains, forming numerous subordinate valleys, at once fertile and picturesque, and constituting a region of singular wildness and beauty. Its rare combination of great agricultural resources with extraordinary mineral riches, must one day render it the seat of a populous and wealthy community. At the lower end of the valley stands the town of Harper's Ferry, celebrated for the majestic scenery in its vicinity. The town has a popu lation of about 2000 inhabitants, and contains three churches, an academy, two Masonic halls, one of the largest flouring-mills in the Union, an Arsenal of the United States, containing about 85,000 stands of arms, and an Armory for the manufacture of fire-arms. A rail-road extends from -this place to Winchester, one of the most flourishing towns in the State, with 3454 inhabitants. It stands on the site of old Fort Loudon, in the midst of a very rich and highly-cultivated tract, inhabited by an industrious and thriving population. Winchester is the depot of the surrounding country, and its trade and manufactures are extensive. Fred eric ksburg is a flourishing town at the head of navigation on the Rappa- hannock river, which admits vessels of 140 tons up to the town. Its situation makes it the depot of a well-cultivated tract, and its trade is considerable. To bacco, wheat, flour, corn, &c., are the principal articles of exportation. Popula tion, 3974. Falmouth, Port Royal, Tappahannock, and Urbanna, are small villages on the Rappahannock. In Westmoreland county, on the Potomac, is shown the spot where Washington was born; the house, which stood on Pope's creek, about half a mile from the river, on a plantation called Wakefield, is now in ruins. A simple stone, with the inscription, Here, on the \\th of February 1732, George Washington was born, designates the consecrated spot. Further up the river, eight miles from Alexandria, is Mount Vernon, the seat and the tomb of that great and good man. The mansion-house is a simple wooden building, two sto ries high, with a plain portico extending, the whole length, and commanding a view of the river; the tomb is merely a walled excavation in the bank, with a brick front and closed by an iron door. Leesburg, a few miles east of the Potomac river, is a neat and thriving town, with about 2000 inhabitants, situated in a productive and highly cultivated dis trict. Fairfax, further south, is a flourishing village, and further on is Barbours- ville, in the vicinity of which are the seat and tomb of the late President Ma dison. In the western part of the State is the city of Wheeling, surrounded by rich coal-beds and a highly fertile country ; and, standing at the head of stearn-boat navigation on the Ohio during the season of low water, is one of the most flour ishing trading towns in the country. The population increased from 1567 in 1820, to 7885 in 1840. Over 20 steam-Wats are owned here, and great quantities VIRGINIA. 55 f goods are forwarded to this point in wagons by the National Road from the jast, and by keel-boats, flat-boats, and steamers down the river. Iron-founderies, steam-engine factories, cotton and woollen-mills, glass-houses and cut-glass works, lour, paper, and saw-mills, copperas, white-lead, sheet-lead, and tobacco-manu- 'actories, are among the manufacturing establishments. There are exported 'rom Wheeling annually 1,500,000 bushels of bituminous coal. STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. NORTH CAROLINA is bounded on the north by Virginia} east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by South Carolina, and west by Tennessee. Length 362 miles, and breadth 121 miles ; area, 43,800 square miles. The country, for more than 60 miles from the coast, is a low plain, with many swamps and inlets from the sea The greater portion of this district, except along the water-courses, is a vast forest of evergreens. The rich lands near the swamps and rivers are insalubrious. Having passed this monotonous region, we emerge to the pleasant and mild parts of the State, at the base of the Alleghanies, from whose summits the eye tra verses an immense extent of beautiful country to the west, and vision is lost in an agreeable succession of hill, dale, forest, and valley. In the. western part of the State the Blue Ridge, which forms the separating line between the waters of the Atlantic and the Mississippi, attains an elevation of about 5500 feet. The western boundary of the State is formed by the pro longation of the same ridge ; its different parts are known by various local names one of which, the Black Mountain, has been recently ascertained to be the mos lofty in the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains ; its height is 6476 feet or 48 feet more elevated than Mt. Washington : another summit of the Blu Ridge, the Roan Mountain, is 6038 feet in height. The tract between the twc ridges is an elevated table-land, from 2000 to 2500 feet above the sea. 'North Carolina abounds in considerable rivers, but enjoys few facilities for navi gation in proportion to the number and size of the streams, which are shallow o: broken in their course, or lose themselves in lagoons difficult of access, or an obstructed by bars. The Chowan flows into Albemarle Sound, and admits smal vessels to Murfreesboro'. The Roanoke also empties itself into the same shallow basin. The Tar River and the Neuse both flow into Pamplico Sound : the first is navigable 90 miles, to Tarboro', and the latter to Kingston. Cape Fear river, th< principal stream, which has its whole course within the State, rising on the north ern border, pursues a south-easterly course of 280 miles, and enters the ocean a Cape Fear; the Waccarnaw, the Lumber, and Yadkin, which take the name: of the Little and Great Pedee, and the Catawba, which rises in the Blue Ridge all flow into South Carolina; while the French Broad, Little Tennessee, Hiwas see, and New river, descend in an opposite direction from the same range. The swamps are a striking feature in the eastern part of the State. Th< Dismal Swamp lies in the north-eastern part and extends into Virginia. It is 3( miles in length and 10 in breadth. In the centre, on the Virginia side, is Lab Drumrnond, 15 miles in circuit; a canal is carried through it from Norfolk to Al bemarle Sound. Between Albemarle and Pamplico Sound is another, called Alii gator Swamp ; this has been partly drained, and the land rendered fit for the cul tivation of rice. These swamps have a clay bottom, over which lies a thicl stratum of vegetable compost. The drained lands are found to be exceeding!; fertile. The pine forests of North Carolina, which cover nearly the whole of the east ern part of the State, yield not only much lumber for exportation, but also nearl] all the resinous matter used in ship-building in this country. The resinous pro ducts are turpentine, spirits of turpentine, rosin, tar, and pitch; turpentine i merely the sap of the tree obtained by making an incision in the bark ; the tur pentine flows out in drops, which fall into a box placed to receive them. Among the mineral productions, the most important appear to be gold and iron The gold region of North Carolina embraces the section on both sides of the Blui Rid*ge, and extends to the east of the Yadkin. The surface mines are the mos Z 56 UNITED STATES. easily worked, but the vein mines are the most durable. In almost any part of this district, gold may be found in greater or less abundance. It exists in grains or masses from almost imperceptible particles, to pieces of one or two pounds weight; one of the .largest lumps ever found, was dug up in Cabarras county it was worth between' 7 and 8000 dollars. Lumps from the value of 100 or 200 to 1000 dollars, are not uncommon. The great diversity of climate between the eastern lowlands and the western high country, produces a corresponding diversity in the agricultural productions of the two sections ; while the former yields cotton, rice, and indigo, the more northern grains and fruits thrive in the latter, which yields wheat, Indian-corn, tobacco, and hemp, v The population of North Carolina, in 1790, was 393,754; in 1800, 478,103; in 1810, 555,500; in 1820, 638,829; in 1830, 738,470; in 1840, 753,419; of whom 245,817 were slaves. Of the free population, 240,047 were white males ; 244,823 white females; 11,226 were coloured males; 10,505 were coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 217,095; in commerce, 1734 ; in manufac tures and trades, 14,322 ; in navigating the ocean, 327 ; do. canals, rivers, &c., 379; in the learned professions, 1086. There were in this State, in 1840, 166,608 horses and mules; 617,371 neat cattle; 538,279 sheep; 1,649,716 swine. There were produced, 1,960,885 bush els of wheat; 15,391 of buckwheat; 213,971 of rye; 23,893,763 of Indian-corn ; 3574 of barley; 3,193,941 of oats; 2,609,239 of potatoes; 625,044 pounds of wool; 16,772,359 of tobacco; 2,820,388 of rice; 51,926,190 of cotton; 3014 of silk cocoons; 101,369 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $674,349; of the orchard, at $386,006 ; of lumber, at $506,766. There were made 28,752 gallons of wine. The exports of the State, in 1840, amounted to $387,484, and the imports to $252,532. The amount of home-made or family manufactures, in 1840, was $1,413,246; 25 cotton manufactories produced articles to the amount of $438,950; 10 smelt- ing-houses produced gold to the amount of $255,619 ; hats and caps were manu factured to the amount of $38,170 ; 353 tanneries employed a capital of $271,979 ; 240 other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., produced articles to the amount of $185,387; 323 flouring-mills produced 87,641 barrels of flour, and with, other mills produced articles to the amount of $1,552,096; vessels were built to the amount of $62,800; 2802 distilleries produced 1,051,979 gallons of spirits; tar, pitch, turpentine and rosin, 593,451 barrels. Amount of capita" employed in the fisheries, $213,500. Total amount employed in manufactures $3,838,900. The University of North Carolina, at Chapel Hill, was founded in 1791 ; Da vidson College, in Mecklenburg, founded in 1837. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 158 students. There were in the State 141 academies, with 4398 students; and 632 common and primary schools, with 14,950 scholars. There were in the State 56,609 white persons above the age of 20 who could neither read nor write. Of religious denominations, the Methodists and Baptists are the most numerous they have each about 20,000 communicants; the Presbyterians, about 11,000 communicants. The Episcopalians have a Bishop and 20 ministers; the Luther ans have 18 ministers, 38 congregations, and 1890 communicants. Besides these, there are some Moravians, Friends, and Roman Catholics. A rail-road extends from Wilmington, 161 miles, to Weldon, on the Roanoke river. Another also extends from Raleigh, 87 miles, to Gaston. These works unite with others from Virginia. The Dismal Swamp Canal of Virginia, extends into North Carolina, (see Virginia). Raleigh, the capital of the State, not far from the west bank of the Neuse, is a thriving town with 2244 inhabitants. A fine State-House of granite has been erected here, in place of the one destroyed by fire in 1831, when Canova*s statue of Washington was unfortunately ruined. Fayetteville is a busy and flourishing town, at the head of boat navigation on Cape Fear river, with 4285 inhabitants. It contains an United States Armory. Salem, Salisbury, and Charlotte, are small towns in this section. The last mentioned has of late rapidly increased in NORTH CAROLINA. 57 importance on account of its proximity to the gold mines. Population about 1000. It contains a United States Mint for the coinage of gold. Beaufort, the only port of North Carolina directly upon the sea, admits vessels drawing 12 feet of water, and the harbour is safe and commodious ; but the town is inconsiderable. Wilmington, 40 miles from the sea on Cape Fear river, is the most important commercial town of the State, and it carries on a considerable trade with the West Indies. The population is about 4744. Newbern, on the south bank of the river Neuse, 80 miles from Pamplico Sound, is a place of some commerce, although large vessels cannot come up to the town, and the navigation is tedious and difficult for smaller craft. Population, 3690. Washington and Tarboro', on the Pamplico river, Plymouth and Halifax, on the Roanoke, Eden- ton, on the Chowan, and Elizabeth, on the Pasquotank, are small trading towns. STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. THE State of South Carolina is bounded on the north and north-east by North Carolina, south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, and south-west by Georgia, from which it is separated by the Savannah river; it is in length 188 miles, by 160 in breadth, the area being about 30,000 square miles. The rivers of South Carolina afford some considerable navigable facilities for small river-craft; but, in the lower part of their course, they are shallow, and obstructed by bars. The prin cipal are the Waccamaw, Pedee, Black river, Santee, Cooper, Ashley, Stono, Edisto, Ashepoo, Combahee, Coosaw, Broad, and Savannah. The harbours of this State are generally of Jittle value; but the coast presents numerous entrances, which are accessible to small vessels, and which afford advantages for an active coasting trade. The harbour of Charleston is obstructed at the entrance by a dangerous sand-bar, and that of Georgetown will only admit small vessels. The harbour of Beaufort, or Port Royal, is the best in the State, and is sufficient to receive a navy, but is little frequented. St. Helena Sound is the most spacious opening for a great distance along the coast ; but, although about three miles wide and ten miles long, it is too much beset with shoals to be of any great commercial value. The sea-coast is bordered with a fine chain of islands, between which and the shore there is a very convenient navigation. The main land is by nature divided into the lower and upper country. The low country extends 80 or 100 miles from the coast, and is covered with extensive forests of pitch-pine, called pine barrens, interspersed with swamps and marshes of a rich soil; beyond this is the sand-hill region, 60 miles in width, the sterile hills of which have been compared to the arrested waves of the sea in a storm. To this distance the broad extent of country is denominated the lower country; beyond it we approach the ridge, or upper country, the Atlantic ascent of which is precipitous. From the summit stretches a fine belt of table-land, fertile and well cultivated, watered by rivers, and irrigated by smaller streams, extending from the Savannah to Broad river. The country beyond the ridge resembles in its scenery the most interesting of the northern States. The traveller is gratified by the pleasant alternation of hill and dale, the lively verdure of the hills is contrasted with the deeper tints of the extensive forests which decorate their sides, and, in the valleys, broad rivers roll their streams through the varied beauties of luxuriant and cultivated fields. The ascent hence to the mountains is gradual and imperceptible. A number of moun tains of striking forms, here swell with their peaks to a very considerable eleva tion. Table Mountain is the most conspicuous ; its summit is supposed to be 4000 feet above the level of the sea. The low country is infested with many of the diseases which spring from a warm, moist, and-unelastic atmosphere. Of these, the most frequent are fevers, from which the inhabitants suffer more than from any, or perhaps from all other diseases together. The districts of the upper country enjoy as salubrious a cli mate as any part of the United States. During the most unhealthful period of the year, it is customary for the wealthy South Carolinians to seek relaxation in a 33 58 UNITED STATES. tour through the northern States, or in a sojourn at some of the watering-places in the upland country. The staple commodities of this State are cotton and rice; the latter, first intro duced in 1693, is raised only in the low country, where the immense swamps in which it is grown may be easily irrigated, by means of the rise of the tide in the rivers. Indigo was for some time an important staple ; its culture was introduced in the middle of the last century, and, at the breaking out of the revolutionary war, about 1,000,000 pounds were exported annually; but, toward the close of the century, the price was so much lowered by large importations from the East Indies into England, that it gave way to cotton, which is raised on the same lands. There are no manufactures of any importance in South Carolina, but the com merce is extensive; it consists in the exports of rice, cotton, lumber, &c., and of large quantities of the productions of Georgia and North Carolina, and in the import of manufactured articles, wines, tropical fruits, &c., for home consumption. The region in which gold is found extends through this State. Although the mines are abundant, the diggings have been less numerous than in North Caro lina. Various ochres, used in painting, are found near Yorkville. Marble, lime stone, iron and lead ore, potters' clay, fullers' earth, nitrous earth, talc, and most of the useful fossils, are common. The population in 1790 was 249,073; in 1800, 345,591; in 1810, 415,115; in 1820, 502,741; in 1830, 581,185; in 1840, 594,398; of whom 327,038, or something more than one-half of the population, were slaves. Of the free popu lation, 130,496 were white males; 128,588 white females; 3864 were coloured males; 4412 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 198,363; in commerce, 1958; in manufactures and trades, 10,325; in navigating the ocean, 381 ; do. rivers, canals, &c., 348; in the learned professions, 1481. According to the census of 1840, there were in the State 120,921 horses and mules; 572,608 neat cattle; 232,981 sheep; 878,532 swine. There were pro duced 968,354 bushels of wheat; 44,738 of rye ; 14,722,805 of Indian corn; 3967 of barley; 1,486,208 of oats; 2,698,313 of potatoes; 299,170 pounds of wool; 60,590,860 ofrice ; 61,710,274 of cotton ; 51,519 of tobacco ; 30,000 of sugar; 2080 of silk cocoons; 24,618 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $577,810; of the orchard, at $52,275; of lumber, $537,684. The exports of this State, for the year ending Sept. 30, 1840, amounted to $8,043,284; and the imports to $1,567,431. The tonnage entered was 55,620 tons, and the tonnage cleared 92,185. The amount of home-made or family manufactures, was $930,703; there were 3 woollen factories which produced articles to the amount of $1000; employing a capital of $4300 ; 15 cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $359,000, and employed a capital of $617,450; 4 furnaces produced 1250 tons of cast-iron; 9 forges produced 1165 tons of bar-iron ; the whole employing a capital of $113,300; 5 smelting-houses produced gold to the amount of $37,418, and em ployed a capital of $40,000 ; one paper-mill produped to the amount of $20,800, with a capital of $30,000; 164 flouring-mills produced 58,458 barrels of flour ; and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $1,201,678, and em ployed a capital of $1,668,804 ; 250 distilleries produced 102,288 gallons of dis tilled spirits, employing a capital of $14,342 ; vessels were built to the amount of $60,000. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $3,216;970. Of religious denominations the Methodists are the most numerous ; at the commencement of 1836 they had 37,503 communicants; the Baptists had 314 churches, 226 ministers, and 36,276 communicants; the Presbyterians had 90 churches and 70 ministers ; the Episcopalians had 50 churches, one bishop, and 43 ministers; the Lutherans had, in 1840, 24 ministers, 34 congregations, and 1667 communicants; there were also Roman Catholics, Unitarians, Friends, Universalists and Jews. The most important literary institution in the State is the College of South Carolina, founded in 1804. There is a theological seminary connected with the SOUTH CAROLINA. 59 institution. In both departments there were, in 1843, 216 students. Charleston College was founded in 1795, and has about 50 students. The medical institu tion in Charleston has 8 professors and 158 students. There were in the State, in 1840, 117 academies or grammar-schools, with 4236 students; and 566 com mon or primary schools, with 12,520 scholars. There were 20,615 free white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. South Carolina has several important works of internal improvement. The Santee canal, extending 22 miles from Charleston harbour to Santee river, was finished in 1802. Through this canal, and the improvement of the Santee and Congaree rivers, a steamboat communication has been opened from Charleston to Columbia. Winyaw canal extends from Winyaw bay, 7 miles, to Kinlock creek, a branch of the Santee river. The navigation of Catawba river has been improved by five short canals, with an aggregate length of 11^ miles. The South Carolina rail-road extends 136 miles, from Charleston to Hamburg. It was commenced in 1830, and completed in 1834. It has since been sold to the Charleston, Louisville, and Cincinnati Rail-road Company. This company con template the formation of the longest rail-road yet undertaken in the United States. Its entire length, from Charles^n to Cincinnati, will be 718 miles. The Branchville and Columbia rail-road extends from Branchville, or the South Carolina rail-road, 66 miles, to Columbia, and is to form a part of the Charles ton, Louisville, and Cincinnati rail-road. Charleston, the principal city of South Carolina, and the largest city in the Atlantic States south of the Potomac, stands on a point of land between the Ashley and Cooper rivers, six miles from the ocean. It is regularly laid out, with streets running east and west from river to river, and others intersect ing them nearly at right angles, from north to south. Among the public buildings are 26 churches, the City Hall, Exchange, two Arsenals, Theatre, College Halls, Aims-House, Orphan Asylum, &e. ; the City Library contains about 18,000 volumes, and the Orphan Asylum supports and educates 250 desti tute children. The city is healthier than the surrounding country, and the planters from the low country, and many opulent West-Indians, spend the sum mer here. Its commerce is extensive, comprising nearly the whole of that of the State, and its shipping amounted, in 1840, to 29,250 tons. The population increased from 18,711, in 1800, to 29,261, in 1840; of which number 14,673 were slaves ; including the Neck, which is adorned with numerous plantations in a high state of cultivation, the population is estimated to exceed 40,000 souls. The approach to the city is defended by Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, at the mouth of the harbour, and by Castle Pinckney opposite the extreme point of the city within. Columbia, the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated on the Congaree, below the junction of the Saluda and Broad rivers. It is regularly laid out with very wide streets, and .is a neatly-built town with 3500 inhabitants. It contains a handsome State-House, a Lunatic Asylum, the Halls of South Caro lina College, and several churches. Granby is a little town on the opposite side of the river. Camden is a place of some trade, situated on a rising ground on the Wateree, with about 1000 inhabitants. It is noted for the two battles fought near it during the Revolutionary war, in the first- of which the Baron De Kalb was slain. Beaufort, to the south of Charleston, is a little town on Port Royal Island about 16 miles from the sea, with a fine harbour, which is little used. George town, to the north, on Winyaw Bay, being the dep6t of an extensive and well- cultivated district, has considerable trade, but is not accessible to vessels drawing more than 11 feet of water. It is, however, unhealthful, and during the autumn many of the inhabitants resort to North Island at the mouth of the bay. Popu lation about 2000. Cheraw, on the Pedee, near the North Carolina line, is a town of about 1000 inhabitants; its trade is very considerable. Greeneville, in the upper part of the State, is a neat town of about 1000 inhabitants ; it is situ ated in the midst of a salubrious and fertile country. 17* 60 UNITED STATES. STATE OF GEORGIA. GEORGIA is bounded north by Tennessee and North Carolina, north-east by South Carolina, and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by Florida, and west by Alabama. Length, 300 miles ; breadth, 200 ; area, 58,000 square miles. The principal rivers of Georgia are the Savannah, (which forms the boundary between it and South Carolina,) Alatamaha, Ogeeehee, Satilla, Ockmulgee, Oconee, St. Mary's, Chattahoochee, Flint, Tallapoosa, and Coosa. The coast of Georgia, for four or five miles inland, is a salt marsh, mostly uninhabited. In front of this, towards the sea, there is a chain of islands of a grey, rich soil, covered in their natural state with pine, hickory, and live-oak, and yielding, on cultivation, the finest quality of sea-island cotton. The principal are Wassaw, Ossabaw, St. Catherine, Sapelo, St. Simon's, Jekyl, and Cumberland. Beyond the swamps which line the coast, commences that extensive range of pine-barrens closely re sembling those of South Carolina; above this range the country begins to be pleasantly diversified by gentle undulations. This region is bounded on the west by the Blue Ridge, which here swells Jnto elevations 1500 feet in height, which thence subside, and are lost in the sea. Beyond the mountains is an extensive and rich table-country, with a black soil of great fertility. The climate of Georgia differs but little from that of South Carolina. The low-country planters have their sickly season and summer retreats in the high pine woods. The districts central to the rice-swamps, in the Carolinas and Georgia, are universally insalubrious. There are districts in this State that ap proach nearer to tropical temperature than any part of South Carolina, and better adapted to the sugar-cane, olive, and sweet orange. The hilly and western parts are as healthy as any in America. As an average of the temperature, winter may be said to commence in the middle of December, and terminate in the mid dle of February. The climate of the low-country compares very nearly with that of Louisiana. The mineral resources of Georgia are but imperfectly known ; copper and iron have been found, but the most valuable mineral production, hitherto, has been gold. It occurs in the northern part of the State, on both sides of the Chattahoo chee river as far north as the Blue Ridge, and to a considerable, but not well- ascertained distance on the south. The great agricultural staples of Georgia are cotton and rice. The cotton crop has amounted to 400,000 bales, and the rice to 35,000 casks. Some sugar and tobacco are also raised. The fruits are figs, oranges, melons, pomegranates, lemons, citrons, pears, peaches, &c. ' The population of Georgia, in 1790, was 82,584; in 1800, 162,686; in 1810, 252,433; in 1820, 348,989; in 1830, 516,567; in 1840, 691,392; of whom 280,944 were slaves. Of the free population, 2 10,534 were white males; 197,161 white females; 1374 were coloured males; 1379 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 209,283 ; in commerce, 2428 ; in manufactures and trades, 7984 ; in mining, 574 ; in navigating the ocean, 262 ; do. rivers, canals, &c., 352 ; in the learned professions, 1250. There were in this State, in 1840, 157,540 horses and mules; 884,414 neat cattle; 267,107 sheep; 1,457,755 swine. Poultry was raised to the value of $449,623. There were produced, 1,801,830 bushels of wheat; 60,693 of rye; 20,905,122 of Indian corn; 12,979 of barley ; 1,610,030 of oats; 1,211,366 of potatoes; 162,894 of tobacco; 12,384,732 of rice; 163,392,396 of cotton; 329,744 of sugar. The products of the dairy were valued at $605,172; of the orchard at $156,122 ; of lumber at $114,050. There were made 8647 gallons of wine. The exports of the State, in 1840, amounted to $6,862,959, and the imports to $491,428. The family or home-made articles amounted to $1,467,630. The capital em ployed in manufactures amounted to $2,889,565, chiefly in flouring and other mills, cotton factories, tanneries, &c. ; 14 furnaces produced 494 tons of cast-iron, and employed a capital of $24,000. The University of Georgia, located at Athens, is the principal literary institu- GEORGIA. 61 tion in the State, and was designed to have an academic branch in each county. A few only of those have heen opened. It was founded in 1788, and has heen well endowed. In this institution and its branches, there were, in 1840, 622 stu dents. There were in the State 176 academies or grammar-schools, with 7878 students, and 601 common or primary schools, with 15,561 scholars. Of the population, 30,717 white persons over 20 years of age could neither read nor write. The Baptists are the most numerous of the religious denominations ; they had, in 1835, 583 churches, 298 ministers, and 41,810 communicants. The Methodists in Georgia and Florida had 80 travelling preachers, 33,442 communicants, of whom 25,005 were whites, 8436 were coloured. The Presbyterians had 75 churches, 45 ministers, and 4882 communicants. The Episcopalians had 4 minis ters; the Protestant Methodists had 20 congregations and 15 ministers; the Christians had 15 or 20 ministers; the Roman Catholics 4 ministers; the Uni tarians 2 ministers. There are also some few Lutherans, Associate Reformed Presbyterians, Friends, and Jews. Georgia has several important works of internal improvement. The Savannah and Ogeechee canal extends 16 miles, from Savannah to Ogeechee river; it was completed in 1829. The Brunswick canal extends 12 miles, from the Alata- mana river to Brunswick. The Georgia rail-road extends westward from Au gusta, 170 miles, to Marthasville. The Athens branch extends from the Georgia rail-road 23 miles, to Athens. The Western and Atlantic rail-road is designed to continue the Georgia rail-road to Chattanooga, on the Tennessee river, 130 miles. The Central rail-road extends from Savannah 197 miles, to Macon, and is now in progress of completion from Macon to be united with the Georgia rail road near Decatur. The Hiwassee rail-road, also in progress, will begin at a point on the Western and Atlantic rail-road, and will be carried thence to Knox- ville, in Tennessee. The city of Savannah is advantageously situated for a commercial town, being accessible to large ships from the sea, and communicating with the interior by the noble river on which it stands. It is built on the southern side of the Savannah, on a high bank rising about 50 feet above the water, from which it makes a fine appearance, with its spacious and regular streets, and its handsome public build ings, mingling pleasantly with the groves of trees which surround them and adorn the squares and principal streets. The site was formerly unhealthy, on account of the surrounding swamps, but this evil has been cured by judicious drainings. In 1820 it suffered much from a terrible fire, but it has recovered from this shock, and is at present one of the most flourishing cities in the Southern States. It contains 13 churches, a Court-House, Exchange, Arsenal, Jail, U. S. Barracks, an Academy, Theatre, 2 Asylums, a Poor-House, Hospital, Market- House, besides banks, &c. Population in 1840, 11,214. Savannah is the chief commercial depot in the State, and most of the cotton and rice, with large quan tities of the other articles of exportation, pass through this port. There was ex ported, in 1843, about 300,000 bales of cotton, 25,000 tierces of rice, and near 8,000,000 feet of lumber. Two companies employ on the Savannah river alone 17 steam-boats, some of which are of iron, and more than 70 tow-boats, some being as large as 150 tons burthen. In 1840, the tonnage of the port was 17,930 tons. The city of Augusta, the great interior emporium of the State, stands on the Savannah, at the head of steam-boat navigation. It is handsomely built, and con tains a City-Hall, 7 churches, an Hospital, Arsenal, Theatre, &c. ; a bridge across the Savannah, 1200 feet long, connects it with Hamburg. The population amounted, in 1840, to 6500. Augusta is the depot of an extensive tract of pro ductive and populous country, and is connected with the sea by the Charleston and Hamburg rail-road, and the Savannah river. Milled geville, the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated on the Oconee, at the head of steam-boat navigation, and is a place of some trade. Population in 1840, 2095. It contains the State-House, the Penitentiary, on the Auburn plan, State Arsenal, &c. Athens, a thriving little town above Milledgeville, is the seat of the University of Georgia. Population, 1200. S2 UNITED STATES. Macon is situated at the head of navigation on the Ocmulgee ; it consisted in L822 of a single cabin; in 1830 it had a population of 2600 souls, and in 1840, 3927. Its trade is extensive and increasing; there is a considerable number of saw and grist-mills in the vicinity. A great amoMnt of cotton is shipped from this place, Columbus is situated on the Ghattahoochee, at the head of navigation, and 430 miles from the sea. The town was first laid out in 1828, when the site was ye covered with the native forest; in 1842 it contained over 4000 inhabitants, with several churches, newspapers, &c. Steam-boats run regularly from here to New Orleans, and 60,000 bales of cotton were shipped from the town in 1842, when 15 steam-boats were employed on the Chattahoochee. Dahlonega, in the north ern part of the State, between the Chestatee and Etowa, is the seat of one of the offices of the United States Mint. Darien is a neat and thriving little town, with an active trade in cotton, and in the lumber which is brought down the river in large quantities. Its population is about 2500. Brunswick, with a spacious harbour, is situated on Turtle river about 10 miles nearly due west from the opening between St. Simon's and Jekyl islands. St. Mary's, a small town on the river of the same name, just above its entrance into Cumberland Sound, derives importance from its fine deep harbour, the most southerly on the coast from Georgia to Florida. THE STATE OF FLORIDA. FLORIDA, is bounded north by Alabama and Georgia ; east by the Atlantic Ocean ; south and west by the Gulf of Mexico. Formerly the name of Florida was applied to the whole country east of the Mississippi, and south of the parallel of 31 north latitude. The river Appalachicola divided it into East and West Florida. The part lying between the Mississippi and Pearl river is now included in the State of Louisiana ; the part between Pearl river and the Perdido, belongs to the States of Mississippi and Alabama; and the part east of the Perdidols the country that is now called Florida. Its mean length, from north to south, is 380 miles, and the mean breadth 150, the area being 57,750 square miles. The surface of Florida is in general level, and not much elevated above the sea. It is intersected by numerous ponds, lakes, and rivers, of which the prin cipal are the St. John's, Appalachicola, Suwanee, Ocklockony, Choctawhalchie, Escambia, and Yellow- Water rivers. The southern part of the peninsula is a mere marsh, and terminates at Cape Sable in heaps of sharp rocks, interspersed with a scattered growth of shrubby pines. The gulf stream setting along tiie coast has here worn away the land, forming those islands, keys and rocks, known by the general name of Reefs, or Keys, between which and the main land is a navigable channel. These islands con tain some settlements and many good harbours. One of the most important is Key West, 6 miles long and two in breadth, on which is the town of Key West, a naval station, and the seat of an admiralty court: the harbour is good, well sheltered, and of sufficient depth of water to admit the largest vessels. The eddies which set towards the shore from the gulf stream cause many ship wrecks on this part of the coast, furnishing employment to the Bahama wreckers. The soil of Florida is in some parts, especially on the banks of the rivers, equal to any in the world ; in other parts, it is indifferent ; and there are large tracts which are represented to be of little value. Live-oak timber is one of the most valuable products of Florida. The fig, pomegranate, orange, and date, are among the fruits; cotton is the chief agricul tural staple; the sugar-cane is also pretty extensively cultivated; rice is raised in large quantities; and indigo formerly furnished a valuable article of exporta tion, but is now only raised for family use. But Florida is on the whole better suited for a grazing country ; and its vast herds of cattle, horses, swine, &c., find a boundless extent of range in its fine pastures. The climate, from October to June, is generally salubrious; but the months of FLORIDA. 63 uly, August, and September, are hot and uncomfortable ; and during this season, evers are prevalent At St. Augustine, however, the climate is delightful, and his place is the resort of invalids. In the year 1822 Spain ceded Florida tfl the United States, in compensation or spoliations committed on the commerce of the latter. From that time, it was governed as a territory until 1845, when it became a State. Florida was lately, "or several years, the theatre of a war between the United States and the Semi- lole Indians. In 1818 this tribe was conquered by General Jackson, and agreed o abandon the territory and remove west of the Mississippi. Preparations were nade for their removal in 1835, but being reluctant to leave their country, they commenced hostilities under Osceola; but, after a protracted war, they were at ength subdued. The Indians are now, for the most part, removed to a desirable country beyond the Mississippi, where, it is hoped, that they will remain undis- urbed and at peace with their neighbours. The population, in 1830, was 34,723 ; in 1840, 54,477 ; of which 16,456 were white males, and 11,487, females; free coloured persons, males, 398; females, 419; slaves, males, 13,038; females, 12,679. There were employed in agri culture 12,117; in commerce 481 ; in manufactures and trades 1177; in navi gating the ocean 435; on canals and rivers 118; in the learned professions, and engineers, 204. There were in the State in 1840, 12,043 horses and mules; 118,081 neat cat- ;le; 7198 sheep; 92,680 swine; poultry was raised to the value of $61,007; jushels of Indian corn 898,974; 75,274 pounds of tobacco; 481,420 of rice ; 12,110,533 of cotton; and 275,317 of sugar. A small amount of rye and hay was produced. The manufactures are inconsiderable; the amount of capital employed in that sranch, in 1840, was $669,490 ; and in home-made or family articles $20,205. There is no college, at present, in Florida. In 1840 there were 18 academies and grammar-schools, with 732 students ; and 51 common and primary schools with 925 scholars. There were 1303 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. St. Augustine is the oldest town in Florida, and also in the United States ; it was settled by the Spaniards in 1565; it stands at the junction of two small creeks, called the Matanzas and the North River. It is regularly built, but the streets are narrow ; the houses are generally two stories high, surrounded with balconies and piazzas; it contains 4 churches; a U. S. Barracks, and Land Office. It is commanded by Fort Marion, which stands at the mouth of the har bour. On Amelia island, the north-eastern corner of Florida, is the little village o Fernandina, which, during the embargo, and the late war, was an important dep6t Jacksonville, on the St. Johns river, is a flourishing town, forming the depo of the trade of the surrounding country ; it is also a considerable thoroughfare In the middle section of the territory are St. Marks, Tallahassee, Quincy, Mari anna, Monticello and A.ppalachicola. St. Marks is the shipping-port of a popu lous and productive district, and is a growing town, with a good harbour; the entrance affords 12 feet water; but up to the town, 6 miles from the sea, the bay carries only 8 feet, Tallahassee, the capital of Florida, stands on an eminence in a fertile district, and contains 3 churches; a bank; a State House; jail; market, and an aca demy. The population in winter is about 2500. Appalachicola is a flourishing little town, at the mouth of the river of the same name. It has a good harbour, and its trade in cotton is considerable ; about 20 steamboats navigate the river besides other craft; it has an Episcopal church, and two banks. St. Joseph's, on the bay of the same name, is also a place of growing trade; the bay affords 25 to 33 feet of water, and is well sheltered from all winds; this is connected with Jola, on the Appalachicola river, by a rail-road. Pensacola, or the bay of the same name, is important as a naval station of the United States ; it is accessible, to small vessels, through Santa Rosa Sound ; a long, shallow lagoon, sheltered by the island of Santa Rosa, which also fronts the bay of Pen sacola, and through the main channel to ships of war, up to the navy-yard, about 8 miles below the town. The population of Pensacola is about 2000. 64 UNITED STATES. STATE OF ALABAMA-, THE State of Alabama is bounded north by Tennessee, east by Georgia, south by Florida, and west by the State of Mississippi. Length 280 miles ; breadth 160 miles ; area 46,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Alabama, Tombigby, Black Warrior, Coosa, Tal- lapoosa, Tennessee, Chattahoochee, Perdido, and Cahawba. The southern part of the country, which borders on the Gulf of Mexico and West Florida, for the space of 50 miles wide, is low and level, covered with pine, cypress, &c. ; in the middle it is hilly, with some tracts of open land ; the nor thern part is somewhat broken and mountainous, and the country generally is more elevated above the sea, than most other parts of the United States at equal distance from the ocean. The Alleghany mountains terminate in the north-east part. The forest trees in the middle and northern part consist of black and white oak, hickory, poplar, cedar, chestnut, pine, mulberry, &c. Alabama possesses great diversity of soil, climate, natural, vegetable, and mineral productions. Occupying the valley of the Mobile, and its tributary streams, together with a fine body of land on both sides of the Tennessee river, its position in an agricultural and commercial point of view is highly advan tageous. A considerable portion of that part of the State which lies between the Alabama and Tombigby, of that part watered by the Coosa and Tallapoosa, and of that on the Tennessee, consists of very excellent land. On the margin of many of the rivers there is a considerable quantity of cane-bottom land, of great fertility, generally from a half to three-quarters of a mile wide. On the outside of this, is a space which is low, wet, and intersected by stagnant water. Next to the rivei swamp, and elevated above it ten or fifteen feet, succeeds an extensive body of level land of a black, rich soil, with a growth of hickory, black oak, post oak dogwood, poplar, &c. After this come the prairies, which are plains of level or gently waving land, without timber, clothed with grass, herbage, and flowers and exhibiting in the month of May the most enchanting scenery. The sugar-cane has been found to succeed very well in the extreme southern strip, between Florida and Mississippi, and indigo was formerly raised ; rice also grows well on the alluvial bottom near the Gulf; but cotton, which thrives throughout the State, is the great agricultural staple. The cotton raised in 1840 amounted to 117,138,822 pounds. There are five principal and several other minor mines of gold and silver in Randolph county, producing about $125,000 annually, and employing from 300 to 500 people. There are inexhaustible beds of fine iron ore in the same county. There are also rich mines of gold and silver in Tallapoosa, and gold has also been found in Coosa, Talladega and Chambers counties. Iron foundries have been established in Benton and Talladega. Nitre is found in abundance in Blount. There are immense quantities of coal near Tuscaloosa and in many other places. Salt can be manufactured near Jackson, in Clarke county ; iron ore, marble, granite, limestone, &c., are also found in th4 same county. Lead ore, in large quantities, and of excellent quality, is found in the bed of the Tennessee, on the Muscle Shoals. Alabama has a sea-coast of only 60 miles, which, however, contains Mobile Bay, one of the deepest basins on the Gulf. It is about 30 miles long, and from 3 to 18 broad, and the main entrance has 15 feet of water at low tide ; but vessels drawing more than 8 or 9 feet cannot approach nearer than 11 miles from the town of Mobne, except at high water. The population in 1800 was only 2000; in 1810, 10,000; in 1820, 127,901; in 1830, 308,997 ; in 1840, 690,756, of whom 253,532 were slaves. Free white males 176,692; do. females 158,493; free coloured males 1030; do. females 1009. Employed in agriculture 177,439 ; in commerce 2212 ; in manufactures and trades 7195 ; navigating the ocean 256 ; do. canals, rivers, &c. 758 ; learned professions 1514. There were in this State, in 1840, 143,147 horses and mules; 668,018 neat cattle, 163,243 sheep; 1,423,873 swine. Poultry was raised to the value of $404,994. There were produced, 828,052 bushels of wheat; 20,947,004 of ALABAMA. 65 Indian corn; 1,406,353 of oats ; 1,708,356 of potatoes; 117,138,823 pounds of cotton; 273,302 of tobacco ; 149,019 of rice. The exports, in 1840, amounted to $12,854,694, and the imports to $574,651. Domestic or family articles made in 1840, amounted to $1,656,119. The capi tal employed in manufactures was $2,130,064, a large portion of which was em ployed in flouring and other mills. The University of Alabama, at Tuscaloosa, La Grange College, at La Grange, and Spring Hill College, near Mobile, are the principal literary institutions in the State; these had, in 1844, 251 students. There were in the State, in 1840, 114 academies and grammar-schools, with 5018 scholars, and 639 common and pri mary schools, with 16,243 scholars. There were in the State 22,592 white persons over 20 years of age who could neither read nor write. Of the religious denominations, the Methodists are the most numerous ; in 1842 they had 34,868 communicants ; the Baptists had 535 churches, 254 ministers, and 25,934 communicants, There were also Episcopalian, Roman Catholics, &c. This State has not neglected works of internal improvement. Muscle-Shoals canal is designed to overcome an obstruction in Tennessee river, and extends from Florence 36 miles, to Brown's Ferry, at the head of the shoals. Huntsville canal extends from Triana, on Tennessee river, to Huntsville, 16 mile's. Mont gomery and West Point rail-road extends from Montgomery to West Point, at the head of the rapids on Chattahoochee river, 87 miles. The Tuscumbia, Cort- land and Decatur rail-road extends from Decatur to Tuscumbia, 44 miles. The rail-roads in progress of construction are the Selma and Tennessee, from Selma to Gunter's landing, on Tennessee river, 170 miles. The Wetumpka, from We- tumpka, 56 miles, to Fort Williams, at the head of the falls of Coosa river, and is designed to unite with the Selma and Tennessee rail-road. The Cahawba and Marion, 35 miles, will connect the two places. The city of Mobile is a flourishing commercial town, being the depdt for nearly the whole State of Alabama and part of Georgia and Mississippi ; it is built on a dry and elevated spot, but was formerly rendered unhealthful by the surrounding marshes ; these, however, have been drained, and the streets have been paved with shells, and of late years Mobile has not suffered from diseases. The harbour is good, and numerous steam-boats run on the Alabama and Tombigby rivers and to New Orleans. Mobile is next to New Orleans the largest cotton market in the United States ; 320,000 bales have been exported here in one year. This city contains a Court-House, Jail, Custom-House, a U. S. Naval Hospital, a City Hospital, 3 banks, the Barton Academy, and 7 churches. The exports amount to from 12 to 16 millions of dollars annually. It suffered severely by fire in 1827 and in 1839 ; at the latter period, 600 houses were burnt, but it has been rebuilt with increased convenience and beauty. Population, in 1840, 12,672; in 1845, over 17,000. Blakely, on the opposite side of the bay, on a high, open, and healthy site, with deeper water and a harbour easier of access than that of Mobile, has not thriven in the same manner, and is only a little village. It con tains a Court-House, 10 stores, &c. Montgomery, near the head of the Alabama, is a busy, growing place, with about 2300 inhabitants. Wetumpka, on the Coosa, at the head of steam-boat navigation, was cut out of the forest in 1832, and in 1835 it was a place of con siderable business. Population in 1840, 2600. Gainesville, on the Tombigby river, is a thriving place, lately settled. Population, about 1200. Tuscaloosa, the capital, stands in a rich district, on a fine site, near the centre of the State, on the Black Warrior river, and, being accessible to steam-boats, is a place of considerable trade ; it contains the State-House, the halls of the Uni versity, the county buildings, &c. The population of the town is about 2000. Florence, below Muscle-Shoals, at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Tennessee, is a growing place of about 2000 inhabitants, with a prosperous trade. Tuscumbia, opposite to Florence, is also a thriving town. Population, 2000. Above the Shoals, and about ten miles north of the river, is Huntsville, situated in a very fertile and beautiful region, with about 2500 inhabitants. 66 UNITED STATES. STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. THE State of Mississippi is bounded on the north by Tennessee, east by Ala bama, south by the Gulf of Mexico and Louisiana, west by Louisiana and Arkan sas. It is about 300 miles in average length, and 160 in breadth; area, about 48,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Pearl, Pascagoula, Yazoo, Big Black, and Tombigby. The Mississippi forms the western boundary from lat. 31 to 35 north ; 308 miles in a right line, but by the course of the river near 700 miles. The Yazoo or Mississippi Swamp is an extensive tract of country between the Yazoo river and the Mississippi, about 175 miles in length and 50 in breadth, with an area of 7000 square miles. A considerable part of it is annually over flowed by the waters of the Mississippi, and at that period it assumes the appear ance of a vast marine forest. Many parts of it have an excellent soil, and produce large crops of cotton, &c. ; it is also intersected by numerous creeks and bayous, leading to and from the Mississippi and Yazoo rivers. Numerous mounds, walls, and enclosures, are found in it, attesting the existence of a considerable population at some former period. The Cold Water river, the head branch of the Yazoo, communicates with the Mississippi by a bayou or creek called the Yazoo Pass, through which boats of considerable burthen pass and repass during periods of high water. The southern part of the State, extending about 100 miles north from the Gulf of Mexico, is mostly a champaign country, with occasional hills of moderate ele vation, and is covered with forests of the long-leaved pine, interspersed with cypress swamps, open prairies, and inundated marshes. A considerable portion of this part is susceptible of cultivation. The soil is generally sandy, sometimes gravelly and clayey. It is capable of producing cotton, corn, indigo, sugar, gar den vegetables, plums, cherries, peaches, figs, sour oranges, and grapes. In proceeding north, the face of the country becomes more elevated and agree ably diversified. The growth of timber consists of poplar, hickory, oak, black walnut, sugar-maple, buckeye, elm, hackberry, &c., and the soil is exceedingly fertile, producing abundant crops of cotton, corn, sweet-potatoes, indigo, garden vegetables, and fruit. Nearly all the country watered by the Yazoo is described as incomparably fertile and well watered. Tobacco and indigo were formerly the staples of Mississippi, but cotton, at pre sent, is the chief production of the State, and it absorbs nearly all the industry of the inhabitants, to the exclusion even of corn and cattle. The crop of 1840 amounted to nearly half a million bales. Some sugar is produced in the southern strip, but the cane does not appear to thrive. The population, in 1816, was 45,921 ; in 1820, 75,448; in 1830, 136,806; in 1840,375,651; of whom 192,211 were slaves. Of the free population, 97,256 were white males ; 81,818 white females ; free coloured males, 715 ; do. females, 654 Employed in agriculture, 139,724; in commerce, 1303; in manufactures and trades, 4151 ; in navigating the ocean, 33; do. rivers, canals, &c., 100; in the learned professions, 1506. There were in this State, in 1840, 109,227 horses and mules; 623,197 neat cattle; 128,367 sheep; 1,001,209 swine. Poultry was raised to the value of $369,482. There were produced, 196,626 bushels of wheat; 11,444 of rye; 13,161,237 of Indian corn; 1654 of barley; 668,624 of oats ; 1,630,100 of pota toes; 175,196 pounds of wool ; 6835 of wax; 83,471 of tobacco; 777,195 of rice ; 193,401,577 of cotton. The produce of the dairy was valued at $359,585 ; of the orchard, at $14,458 ; of lumber, at $192,794; tar, pitch, and turpentine amounted to 2248 barrels. The amount of home-made or family articles, was $682,945; 53 cotton manu factories produced articles to the amount of $1744, employed a capital of $6420; hats and caps were manufactured to the amount of $5140, employing a capital of $8100; 128 tanneries employed a capital of $70,870; 42 other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., produced articles to the amount of .$118,167, employ ing a capital of $41,945; two persons produced confectionary to the amount of MISSISSIPPI. 67 $10,500; 274 persons produced machinery to the amount of $242,225; 132 per sons produced carriages and wagons to the amount of $49,693; 16flouring-mills produced 1809 barrels of flour, and with other mills manufactured articles to the amount of $486,864; vessels were built to the amount of $13,925. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $1,797,727. There are three colleges in this State. Jefferson College, at Washington, 6 miles east of Natchez, was founded in 1802, and has been liberally endowed ; Oakland (College, at Oakland, was founded in 1831, and is prosperous; Centen- nary College, at Brandon Springs, was founded in 1841, by the Methodists, and is flourishing. The colleges existing in 1840 had about 250 students. There were in the State 71 academies, with 2553 students ; and 382 common and pri mary schools, with 8236 scholars. There were in the State 8360 white persons over 20 years of age who could neither read nor write. The Methodists and Baptists are the most numerous religious denominations. In 1836, the Methodists had 53 travelling preachers, and 9707 communicants; the Baptists had 84 churches, 34 ministers, and 3199 communicants ; the Episco palians had 4 ministers; the Presbyterians, of different descriptions, had 32 churches and 26 ministers. A rail-road extends from Vicksburg, 50 miles, to Jackson, and is extended 14 miles farther, to- Brandon. A rail-road extends from Natchez, and is designed to be continued through Jackson to Canton, a part only of which is completed. Several other rail-roads have been projected, and some work done on them. Natchez, the largest town in the State, is situated on the east bank of the Mis sissippi, 300 miles above New Orleans. It consists of two distinct parts ; the lower town, called Natchez under the Hill, and the Upper town; the former is buiit on the margin of the river, about half a mile in length, and from 100 to 200 yards in breadth ; it is occupied by warehouses, tippling-shops, boarding-houses for the boatmen, &C. ; the upper town stands on a lofty bank or bluff, rising abruptly to the height of 300 feet, and is the residence of the better class of citi zens. The streets are wide, regularly disposed, and adorned with fine shade- trees, and it is during the greater part of the year an agreeable and healthful resi dence. Natchez contains a Court-House, Jail, 4 churches, 3 banks, an Academy, a Female Seminary, Hospital, an Orphan Asylum, Masonic Hall, Theatre, 2 steam- mills, &c. It is a great cotton mart, and in the busy season the streets are blocked up with bales of cotton. Population, 4800. Vicksburg, 106 miles above Natchez, stands on the declivity of several consider able eminences, called the Walnut Hills, rising abruptly from the river. It is sur rounded by numerous plantations, and is the depot of a large tract of ountry, which a few years since was occupied solely by Indians. The city contains a Court- House, Jail, 4 churches, 3 academies, 100 stores, and 3200 inhabitants. A number of steam and other boats are constantly in harbour, loading and unloading their cargoes ; and a large amount of cotton is annually shipped from hence. All the trade of the Yazoo country centres in this place. Vicksburg is upwards of 500 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, by the Mississippi river. On the west bank of Pearl river is Jackson, the capital- of the State : it is situated in a plain about a half mile square, on which stand the State-House, the Penitentiary, and some other public buildings. It contains about 2100 inhabitants. Woodville, in the south-western part of the State, 18 miles from the Missis sippi, is a very pretty village, with 800 inhabitants. The little village of Fort Adarns is considered as its port on the Mississippi, but Woodville is now con nected with the river at St. Francisville by a rnil-road. Port Gibson is a flourishing little town, prettily situated on the Bay oil Pierre, and laid out with great regularity. Population, 1200. The river is navigable for steam-boats to this place in time of high water, and a rail-road connects it with Grand Gulf, its port on the Mississippi. The latter, finely situated on a natural terrace, takes its name from a remarkable eddy in the river, and is a thriving town with 1000 inhabitants. Yazoo city, on the Yazoo river, and Grenada, on the Yalbusha, are thriving places, as are also Aberdeen and Columbus, on the Tombigby : the latter place has a population of more than 2000, and an extensive commercial business is transacted here. 18 68 UNITED STATES. STATE OF LOUISIANA. LOUISIANA is bounded on the north by the States of Arkansas and Mississippi ; on the east, by the latter State ; on the south, by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the west, by the republic of Texas. The 33d degree of north latitude is the northern boundary, west of the Mississippi river; and the 31st degree on the east of that river ; the Pearl river is its extreme eastern boundary, and the Sabine its western. It is in length 240 miles, by 210 in breadth ; and contains 48,220 square miles. Three-fourths of the State are without an elevation that can be properly called a hill. The pine woods generally have a surface of a very peculiar character, rising into fine swells, with table surfaces on the summit, and valleys intervening from 30 to 40 feet deep. The alluvial soil is level, and the swamps, which are the only inundated alluvions, are dead flats. The prairies* which constitute a large portion of the surface of the State, have, in a remarkable degree, all the distinctive aspects of prairies. To the eye they seem as level as the still surface of a lake. They are, except the quaking prairies, higher and drier than the savan nas of Florida. The Mississippi, after having formed the boundary of the State for about 450 miles, enters its limits, 350 miles from the sea by the course of the river channel. Throughout this distance of 800 miles, its western bank is low, and flooded in high stages of the river. Outlets, or bayous, receive its surplus waters during the period of the annual inundation, which are carried off by them to the sea : the principal of these bayous are the Atchalafaya, Plaquemine, La Fourche, &c. The rivers in this State, in addition to the Mississippi, are, the Red river; the Washita, flowing into the Red river; the Teehe, Vermillion, Mermentau, and Calcasieu, run into the Gulf of Mexico, together with the Pearl, on the east, and the Sabine, on the west. The Red river is the most important. Soon after en tering Louisiana, its bed was formerly choked up by an immense accumulation of fallen timber, called The Raft, which extended over a distance of 160 miles; but a large part of it has been removed by the exertions of the general govern ment, and the whole mass will soon be cleared away. On the banks of the Mississippi, La Fourche, the Teche, and the Vermillion, below lat. 30 12 7 north, wherever the soil is elevated above the annual inunda tions, sugar can be produced ; and the lands are generally devoted to this crop. In all other parts of the State, cotton is the staple. Rice is more particularly confined to the banks of the Mississippi, where irrigation can be easily performed, The amount of sugar has gradually increased in this State, from 1783 to the pre sent time. The crop of sugar is now about 100,000 hhds. The prairies of the western parishes afford fine pastures, and here are found large herds of cattle and horses. Rice, corn, tobacco and indigo are also produced. In the eastern part of the State, between the Mississippi and Pearl rivers, lumber is cut for exporta tion, and some tar, pitch, and turpentine are prepared. The population of Louisiana in 1810 was 76,556; in 1820, 153,407; in 1830 518,575 ; in 1840, 352,41 1 ; of whom 168,452 were slaves. Of the free population, 89,747 were white males ; 68,710 do. females ; 1 1,526 coloured males ; 13,976 do. females. Employed in agriculture, 79,289 ; in commerce, 8549 ; in manufactures and trades, 7565; in navigating, the ocean, 1322; do. canals, lakes, and rivers, 662; in the learned professions, 1018. There were in the State, in 1840, 98,888 horses and mules; 381,248 neat cattle ; 98,072 sheep ; 323,220 swine. Poultry was raised to the value of $283,559. There were produced, 60 bushels of wheat; 1812 of rye; 5,952,912 of Indian corn; 107,353 of oats; 834,341 of potatoes; 119,824 pounds of tobacco; 3,604,534 of rice; 152,555,368 of cotton; 1 19,947,720 of sugar ; 24,651 tons of hay ; 49,283 pounds of wool. The products of the dairy were valued at $153,069 ; of the orchard at $11,769; of lumber at $66,106. Th*ere were made 2884 gallons of wine, and 2233 barrels of tar, pitch and turpentine. The exports of this State amounted, in 1840, to $34,236,936; but these be long to the great and fertile States of the Mississippi valley. Its imports amounted to $10,673,190. LOUISIANA. 69 Home-made or family manufactures amounted to $65,190 ; two cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $18,900, with a capital of $22,000; six fur naces produced 1700 tons of cast-iron, and two furnaces produced 1366 tons of bar-iron, employing a capital of $357,000 ; 25 tanneries employed a capital of $132,025 ; seven other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., produced articles to the amount of $108,500, and employed a capital of $89,550; 5 sugar refineries produced to the amount of $770,000 ; hardware and cutlery was pro duced to the amount of $30,000 ; mills of various kinds produced articles to the amount of $706,785, and employed a capital of $1,870,795 ; vessels were built to the amount of $80,500; 5 distilleries produced 285,520 gallons of distilled spirits ; and one brewery 2400 gallons of beer. The total amount of capital em ployed in manufactures was $6,430,699. Louisiana College, at Jackson, was founded in 1825 ; Jefferson College, at Bringiers, founded in 1831 ; St. Charles College, at Grand Coteau, is under the direction of the Roman Catholics; Baton Rouge College, at Baton Rouge, was founded in 1838 ; Franklin College, at Opelousas, was founded in 1839. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 437 students. There were in the State 52 academies, with 1995 students ; 179 common and primary schools, with 3573 scholars. There were 4861 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. In 1835 the legislature granted to three colleges $363,775, to be paid out of the State treasury ; viz., $48,775 to Jefferson College, to defray the expense of its buildings, and $15,000 annually, for the period of 10 years; to Louisiana College, $15,000 annually, for the same period, to pay the salaries of their professors, and to lower the rates of tuition, and other expenses ; and $15,000 also to Franklin College. The State was originally settled by Roman Catholics ; and they are still the most numerous religious denomination. In 1835 they had 27 ministers. Metho dists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and Episcopalians, exist in considerable numbers and are increasing. Several works of internal improvement have been undertaken. Pontchartrain Rail-road extends from New Orleans, 4^ miles, to lake Pontchartrain, and cost, originally, $200,000, and with its improvements $500,000. West Feliciana Railroad extends from St. Francisville, on the Mississippi river, 20 miles, to Woodville, Miss. Orleans street Rail-road, through Orleans street, is 1^ miles long, and connects New Orleans with the Bayou St. John's. New Orleans and Carrolton Rail-road extends from New Orleans, 6 miles, to Carrolton, passing through Lafayette. It has city branches, making its whole length 11 miles. Various other rail-roads and canals have been projected, and some work has been done upon them, but they are at present suspended. New Orleans, the third commercial mart in the Union, and the capital of Lou isiana, stands on the left bank of the Mississippi, 100 miles from the sea by the course of the river, and four miles from Lake Pontchartrain. Steamboats and small vessels come up to the landing on the latter, where an artificial harbour has been formed, and whence a rail-road and two canals extend to the rear of the town. In the front of the city, on the river, the largest merchant-ships lie close up to the levee or bank, so that no wharves are necessary to enable them to load and discharge. The river is here from 100 to 160 feet deep, and a half-mile wide. New Orleans is the depot of the whole Mississippi Valley, and must increase in importance with the daily growing wealth and population of that vast region. Thousands of huge arks and flat-boats float down its mighty artery, loaded with the produce of New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia, as well as with that of the more western States. The number of steamboat arrivals and departures is greater here than in any other city in the United States. The exports, including the foreign and coasting trade, are notlessthan $40,000,000 annually ; but its im ports are vastly less. Much of the western country, which exports its produce by the way of New Orleans, imports its goods from New York. In 1842, 740,267 bales of cotton were exported to foreign ports and coastwise. The licensed and enrolled tonnage, in 1840, was 126,613 tons. According to the census of that year, the capi tal engaged in foreign trade amounted to $16,490,000 ; and in the retail trade 70 UNITED STATES. to $11,018,225. New Orleans depends, generally, for manufactured articles, upon other places ; in 1840, the capital employed in manufactures was $1,774,200. The city stands on a dead level, and is regularly laid out with the streets inter secting each other at right angles, as the surface of the water is from two to four feet above the level of the city, at high water, and even in low stages of water is above the swamps in the rear ; a levee, or embankment, from four to eight feet high, has been made all along the river, to prevent inundations ; a breach or cre vasse sometimes occurs in this dike, but it is rarely permitted to do much damage before it is closed. Among the public buildings are the Cathedral of St. Louis, a massive and imposing building with four towers, and 9 other churches, the State-House, Custom-House, Exchange, United States Mint, and Land-Office ; 16 banks, with an aggregate capital of $40,000,000; 12 insurance companies, with a capital of $3,600,000 ; 3 theatres, some of which are splendid structures ; 4 markets, and a number of hotels, two of which are very splendid, and cost $600,000 each ; the Ursuline Convent ; the Charity Hospital ; Orphan's Asy lum, &c. The charitable institutions are numerous, and well conducted. There are two colleges, with 105 students; 10 academies, 440 students ; 25 schools with 975 scholars. Regular lines of packets are established to all the chief At lantic cities, as well as to Galveston, &c. Population in 1810, 17,242 ; in 1820, 27,176 ; in 1830, 46,310.'; and in 1840, 102,193. Donaldsonville, for some time the capital, is one of the healthiest towns in the State, with about 1000 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Lafourche outlet. Baton Rouge, 130 miles by the river, above New Orleans, contains a military post and an arsenal of the United States. It stands on the first highland or bluff point passed in ascending the river. The population in 1840, was 2269. St. Francis- ville, at the mouth of the Bayou Sara, is a neat, busy, and thriving village, con sisting chiefly of one street. Alexandria, on Red River, 100 miles from the Mississippi by the windings of the stream, is a pleasant little village in the centre of a rich cotton region, and ships large quantities of that staple for New Orleans. Natchitoches, 80 miles above, was founded in 1717. It was formerly the centre of the trade with the Mexican interior provinces, receiving bullion, horses, and mules, and sending off manufactured goods, tobacco, and spirits. St. Martinsville, and New Iberia, on the Teche, and Opelousas or St. Landre, to the north, are small villages contain- "ng from 300 to 500 inhabitants, but surrounded by a fertile and well cultivated country. WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. THIS section of the United States comprises the States of Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, Arkansas, and Iowa, the orga nized Territory of Wisconsin, together with the nominal Territories of Missouri and Oregon, the Western or Indian Territory, and the region north of Iowa, which has not as yet received any distinctive name. It includes the whole of that vast space extending from the western base of the Alleghany Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and from the Red river of Louisiana and the 42d degree of latitude on the south, to the parallels of 49 and 54 40' on the north, extending from east to west 2300 miles, and from north to south 1100 miles, comprising an area of ",683,000 square miles. The Chipewayan or Rocky Mountain range are the most important mountains in this region. They are but imperfectly known to us, and present a very rugged and sterile appearance, and oppose generally a formidable barrier to an intercourse Between the countries on their opposite sides. The other elevations are the Ozark Mountains, extending from Missouri south-west to Mexico ; the Black Hills, Detween the Missouri and Yellow-Stone rivers ; and between the former ri y er and ihe St. Peter's river a low ridge intervenes, known as the Coteau des Y airies ; farther to the eastward, and immediately south of Lake Superior, the Porcupine Mountains extend, separating the rivers of Lake Superior from those of the Mis sissippi and Lake Michigan. WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. 71 The immense prairies of this region constitute the most remarkable feature of the country. These are level plains stretching as far as the eye can reach, totally destitute of trees, and covered with tall grass or flowering shrubs. Some have an undulating surface, and are called rolling prairies ; these are the most extensive, and are the favourite resort of the buffalo. Here, without a tree or a stream of water, the traveller may wander for days, and discover nothing but a grassy ocean bounded on all sides by the horizon. In the dry season the Indians set fire to the grass ; and the wide conflagration which ensues, often surprises the bison, deer, and other wild animals, who are unable to escape from the flames, and are burned to death. Much of this great country, especially the northern and western parts, remains to be explored. Of the region west of the Mississippi, hardly anything was known before the beginning of the present century, when the government of the United States dispatched Captains Lewis and Clark on an expedition of disco very. These officers, at the head of a large party, well equipped, proceeded up the Missouri in boats to its source, crossed the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and returned by the same course. The southern part was explored by an expedition under Lieut. Pike ; and at a later period, Major Long and other travel lers have visited different parts of the country. But the great physical features of this region are its giant rivers, with their hundred arms spreading for thousands of miles through every corner of the terri tory, and bringing its most remote recesses, in the very heart of a vast continent, almost into contact with the sea. The main trunk of this great system of rivers has been already described. The Ohio, on the east, and the Arkansas, Red river, and Platte, on the west, are the greatest of the subordinate streams. The first, gathering up the waters of one of the most fertile regions of the globe, bears upon its gentle current the products of a highly cultivated country. The last mentioned take their way for a considerable part of their course through barren tracts of sand. The Arkansas, however, has vast tracts of productive territory for many hundred miles in the lower part of its course. The Red river also passes through a less desert region than the Platte, the country in its lower part being highly fertile. The Alleghany and Monongahela, rising in Pennsylvania and Virginia unite at Pittsburg, and take the name of Ohio. From Pittsburg to the Missis sippi, the river has a course of 950 miles, receiving numerous navigable streams, from the two great inclined planes between which it runs. The great rivers, which form so striking a natural feature of this region, give to the mode of travelling and transportation in general, a peculiar cast, and have created a peculiar class of men, called boatmen. Craft of all descriptions are found on these waters. There are the rude, shapeless masses, that denote the infancy of navigation, and the powerful and richly addrned steam-boat which makes its perfection; together with all the intermediate forms between these extremes. Since the use of steam-boats, numbers of the other craft have disap peared, and the number of river boatmen has been diminished by many thousands The first steam-boat on these waters was built at Pittsburg, in 1811 ; since that time, about 800 have been built at different places, some of which are from 400 to 500 tons burthen, but the greater number are from 90 to 150, 200, and 300 tons ; there are at present not far from 400 steam-boats on the Mississippi and its tributaries, making an aggregate of about 90,000 tons. Lead, iron, coal, salt, and lime abound in the western States; and probably no region "m the world exhibits such a combination of mineral wealth and fertility of soil, united with such rare facilities of transportation. Tobacco, Indian corn hemp, cotton, salted provisions, flour, whiskey, hides and furs, coarse bagging and lead, are the most important articles of export ; and all sorts of manufactured goods and colonial produce are imported. The character of the western States is mixed, but the predominant traits are those of Virginia, and of New England. Kentucky was settled from Virginia and North Carolina ; while Ohio is a scion of New England. These two States have in turn sent their population farther west. But there is much sectional character, much of the openness and boldness of the men and their descendants, who con tested every inch of territory with savages, whose houses were garrisons, and """""'IS* 2B 72 UNITED STATES. who fought at the threshold for their hearths and altars. The population of the western States and Territories, in 1840, was 4,458,154 ; of whom 443,856 were slaves. The inhabitants of tnis section are rapidly increasing in number, and are probably not less than 5,000,000. The negroes constitute about a tenth part of the population. They are held as slaves in all the States but Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan and Iowa. A few Indians yet remain within the limits of the western States. STATE OF OHIO. THIS enterprising and populous State is bounded on the north by Lake Erie and the State of Michigan ; east by Pennsylvania and Virginia ; south by the Ohio river, which separates it from Western Virginia and Kentucky ; and west by Indiana. Its length is 210 miles, and mean breadth 200, containing about 40,000 square miles. The Ohio river forms the boundary of this State, on the south-east and south, for near 500 miles. The rivers which flow into Lake Erie on the north, are Maumee, Sandusky. Huron, Vermillion, Black, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula; those on the south flowing into the Ohio, are the Muskingum, Hockhocking, Little and Great Mi ami. The Au-Glaize and St. Mary's, in the western part of the State, are branches of the Maumee. The interior and northern parts of the country, bordering on Lake Erie, are generally level, and in some places marshy. Nearly one-third of the eastern and south-eastern part is hilly and broken. The hills are numerous, but they seldom rise to any considerable height. Immediately upon the banks of the Ohio, and several of its tributaries, are numerous tracts of interval or meadow land, of great fertility. In the interior, on both sides of the Scioto, and on the Great and Little Miami, are perhaps the most extensive bodies of level and rich land in the State. In many parts there are large prairies, particularly on the head waters of the Muskingum and Scioto, and between the Scioto and the two Miamis. Some of these prairies are low and marshy ; other prairies are elevated, and are frequently called barrens; not always on account of their sterility, for they are often fertile. The most elevated tracts of country between the rivers, are the wettest and most marshy in the State; and the driest land is that which borders on the various streams of water. Ohio produces abundantly everything which grows in the middle States. Flour is exported in vast quantities by the Ohio and Lake Erie to southern and eastern markets. Many steam-mills have been erected, especially in the vicinity of the Ohio river, for the manufacturing of that article. Mills for the same purpose, propelled by water, are to be found in every part of the State. Rye, oats, buck wheat, &c., are produced abundantly ; and tobacco is raised to the amount of 50,000 hogsheads annually. Horses, cattle, and hogs are here raised in great numbers, and driven to an eastern market ; and thousands of barrels of beef and pork are boated from air the towns on the navigable streams, for the southern part of the valley, or to New York. Coal is found in great qaantitiesuin the eastern parts. Iron ore has been disco vered, arid wrought pretty extensively in several places. Salt-springs are found on some of the eastern waters of Muskingum, and on Salt creek, 28-miles south east of ChiMieothe, where there are considerable salt-works. The manufactures of the State are rapidly increasing in importance. The local position of Ohio gives it great facilities for trade ; the Ohio river affords direct communication with all the country in the valley of the Mississippi, while by means of Lake Erie, on the north, it communicates with Canada and New York. The northern and eastern counties export great quantities of agricultural produce to Montreal and New York, and since the construction of the Ohio and Pennsyl vania canals, many of the productions of the southern and western counties also find their way to New York and Philadelphia ; an active export trade is also carried on down the river, by way of New Orleans. OHIO. 73 The rapid growth of the population of Ohio has never been paralleled ; in 52 years from the time when it received its first white settlers, the number of its in habitants was a million and a half, and is now (1845) estimated at 1,800,000. Its fertile and unoccupied lands attracted immigrants not only from the other States, chiefly the Eastern and Middle, but large bodies of Swiss and Germans, and great numbers of British emigrants, have settled themselves in its smiling valleys and rich plains. The population in 1790 was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760*; in 1820, 581,434; in 1830,937,637; in 1840, 1,519,467 ; being the third in popu lation in the United States. Of these, 775,360 were white males ; 726,762 white females ; 8740 coloured males ; 8602 coloured females. Employed in agricul ture, 272,579 ; in commerce, 9201 ; in manufactures and trades, 66,265 ; in navi gating the ocean, 212; do. rivers, canals, and lakes, 3323; in mining, 704 ; in the learned professions, 5663. There were in this State in 1840, 430,527 horses and mules; 1,217,874 neat cattle ; 2,028,401 sheep ; 2,099,746 swine. Poultry was produced to the value of $551,193. There were produced 16,571,661 bushels of wheat; 814,205 of rye; 33,668,144 of Indian corn; 212,440 of barley; 633,139 of buckwheat; 14,393,103 of oats; 5,805,021 of potatoes; 3,685,315 pounds of wool ; 5,942,275 of tobacco; 6,363,386 of sugar; 62,195 of hops; 38,950 of wax; 4317 of silk cocoons ; 1,022,037 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $1,848,869; of the orchard, at $475,271 ; of lumber, at $262,821. There were made 11,524 gallons of wine; 6809 tons of pot and pearl ashes. The exports of the State, in 1841, were $793,114; and the imports were $11,318. This includes but a small portion of its trade, having relation only to its foreign commerce. Home-made or family goods were manufactured to the amount of $1,853,937 ; 130 woollen manufactories and 206 fulling-mills produced articles to the value of $685,757, and employed a capital of $537,985 ; 8 cotton manufactories produced articles to the amount of $139,378, with a capital of $113,500 ; 72 furnaces manu factured 35,236 tons of cast-iron, and 19 forges produced 7466 tons of bar-iron, and employed a capital of $1,161,900; 434 persons produced 3,513,409 bushels of bituminous coal, with a capital of $45,525 ; 14 paper-mills produced articles to the amount of $270,202, with a capital of $208,200 ; 31 persons manufactured hemp or flax, producing to the amount of $11,737 ; hats and caps were manu factured to the amount of $728,513 ; 812 tanneries employed a capital of $957,383 ; 1160 other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., produced articles to the amount of $1,986,146, with a capital of $917,245 ; 187 persons manufactured tobacco to the amount of $212,818, with a capital of $68,810; 289 persons pro duced hardware and cutlery to the amount of $393,300 ; 390 distilleries produced 6,329,467 gallons of distilled spirits, and 59 breweries produced 1,422,584 gallons of beer, the whole employing a capital of $893,119; carriages and wagons were manufactured to the amount of $701,228, and employed a capital of $290,540; 536 flouring-mills produced 1,311,954 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, pro duced articles to the amount of $8,868,213, employing a capital of $4,931,024 ; vessels were built to the amount of $522,855. The total amount of capital em ployed in manufactures was $16,905,257. The University of Ohio, at Athens, was founded in 1821 ; the Miami Univer sity, at Oxford, in 1809. These institutions have been publicly endowed with large grants of land. Franklin College, at New Athens, was founded in 1825 ; the Western Reserve College, at Hudson, in 1826 ; Kenyon College, at Gam bia (Episcopal), in 1826 ; Granville College, at Granville (Baptist), in 1832 ; Marietta College, at Marietta, in 1832 ; the Oberlin Collegiate Institute, at Ober- lin, in 1834; Cincinnati College, at Cincinnati, in 1819 ; as was also Wood ward College, at the same place. Willoughby College, at Willoughby, is a medical institution, it was founded in 1834 ; Lane Theological Seminary, at Cincinnati, in 1829. There are theological departments in Kenyon, Western Reserve, and Granville colleges, and in the Oberlin Institute ; a Lutheran theolo gical school at Columbus, and two medical and one law school at Cincinnati. At all these institutions there were, in 1840, 1717 students. There were in the " --- ; ----'- - -- -- - - 35 74 UNITED STATES. State, 73 academies, with 4310 students ; and 5186 common and primary schools, with 218,609 scholars. There were in the State 35,394 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. In 1836 the Presbyterians had 247 ministers ; the Methodists had 200 minis ters ; the Baptists had 170 ministers ; the Lutherans had 47 ministers ; the Epis copalians had one bishop and 25 ministers ; the German Reformed had 26 minis ters ; and there were besides, a considerable number of Friends, Roman Catho lics, and a few others. This State has some important works of internal improvement. The Ohio Canal extends from Cleveland on Lake Erie, 307 miles, to Portsmouth on the Ohio. It has the following navigable branches ; 14 miles to Zanesville ; 10 miles to Columbus ; 9 miles to Lancaster; 50 miles to Athens ; the Walholding branch of 23 miles; Eastport branch of 4 miles, and one of 2 miles, to Dresden. This important work was begun in 1825, and finished in 1832. The Miami Canal extends from Cincinnati, 178 miles, to Defiance, where it meets the Wa- bash and Erie Canal ; thus completing a second line of canal from Lake Erie to Ohio river. The whole distance from Lake Erie is 265 miles. The Mahoning Canal extends from the Ohio Canal, 88 miles, eight of which are in Pennsylva nia, to Beaver river. The Sandy and Beaver Canal extends from the Ohio Canal, at Bolivar, 76 miles, to Ohio river, at the mouth of Little Beaver creek, and is but partially completed. The Milan Canal extends from Huron, 3 miles, to Milan, to which steamboats now ascend. The ^lad River and Sandusky City Rail-road extends from Tiffin, 36 miles, to Sandusky city, and is designed to be continued to Cincinnati ; but is finished only 28 miles from Cincinnati. Several other railroads have been projected. Cincinnati, the largest city in the Western States, hence often called the "Queen of the West," is situated on the north bank of the Ohio, opposite the mouth of Licking river. The streets are drawn with great regularity, in lines parallel and at right angles to the Ohio. Its growth has been uncommonly rapid ; it was founded in 1789, and had, in the year 1800, 750 inhabitants; in 1820, 9642 ; in 1830, 24,831 ; and, in 1840, 46,338; including Fulton, Covington and Newport, which are properly suburbs of Cincinnati, the population amounted to 60,000. One-third of the adult population is computed to be German. There are in Cincinnati 43 churcrres ; 7 banks ; 4 market-houses ; a theatre ; museum ; 3 colleges; a Mechanics' Institute; Academy of natural sciences; 2 libraries, and 3 Orphan Asylums. The city is supplied with water that is raised from the river, by steam-power, into reservoirs that are elevated 150 feet above low water mark. Cincinnati is the greatest pork market in the Union, 160,000 hogs, valued at $3,172,000, have been slaughtered here in a year. The capital employed in the foreign commercial and commission business amounted, in 1840, to $5,200,000 ; by 1035 retail stores, $12,877,000; the manufactures employ 10,647 persons ; a capital of $14,541,842, and produce articles to the amount of $17,432,670; this also includes some of the manufactures of Fulton, Covington and Newport. Columbus, the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated on the Scioto, in a rich and beautiful district, at the intersection of the river by the National Road, and a branch of the Ohio Canal. It is built on a regular plan, with a square in the centre of the town, round which stand some of the principal public build ings. Here are the State-House, a Lunatic Asylum, an Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, an Institute for the Blind, a Penitentiary, conducted on the Auburn plan, Court-House, seven churches, a bank, &c. Population in 1840, 6048. Chillicothe stands between Paint Creek and the Scioto, and the streets, ex tending across the neck from river to river, are intersected at right angles by others running parallel to the Scioto. Population, in 1840, 3977. The manu factures of the place are pretty extensive, and are rapidly increasing. Ports mouth, at the southern end of the Ohio Canal, derives importance from its situa tion ; its trade is considerable, and there are here several iron-founderies, nail- factories, saw and grist-mills, &c. Population, in 1840, 1500. Zanesville is situated at the head of steamboat navigation on the Muskingum,by which and the Ohio Canal it has a water communication with New Orleans and New York. The falls in the river have made Zanesville the seat of numerous OHIO. 75 mills and manufacturing establishments, including flour-mills, saw-mills, iron- founderies, paper, cotton, and oil-mills, glass-works, &c. Population, in 1840, including the village of Putnam, on the opposite side of the river, 7000. Two bridges cross the river here, and the town contains 9 churches, an athenaeum, two academies, &c. Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, is the oldest town in the State ; it is pleasantly situated partly on a lower and partly on an upper plain, with wide streets, shaded with trees, green squares, and neat buildings. There are numerous mounds and embankments in and around the town. Ship building was formerly carried on here, and many steamboats are still built ; seve ral saw-mills, an iron-foundery, tanneries, &c., also furnish occupation to the inhabitants, 1814 in number. Steubenville, on the Ohio, in the midst of a rich and populous district, contains a number of woollen and cotton manufactories, iron and brass founderies, steam-engine and machine factories, copperas works, several tanneries, and saw and flour-mills, cotton and woollen factories, with a population of 5203 souls. Cleveland, the most important lake-port of Ohio, stands at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river and of the Ohio Canal. Its harbour has been secured by artificial piers, and is commodious and easy of access. Population, in 1840, 6071. Brooklyn, on the opposite side of the river, contained 1409 inhabitants. In 1842, at Cleveland, there were 2468 steamboats and other arrivals, and 2462 departures. Exports, $5,851,898. In the same year there were 80 sail of vessels belonging to this port, of which 5 were steam-boats. Huron, a thriving town further west, is the depot of a rich and flourishing district; Norwalk, in its rear, contains some manufacturing establishments, and 1800 inhabitants. Sandusky city is situated on a fine bay, with a good harbour, and is a busy and growing place. Perrysburg, at the head of steamboat naviga tion on the Maumee, is situated upon a high bank below the falls of the river ; its situation combines great advantages both for navigation and manufactures. Population of each, 2000. Toledo, formerly Fort Lawrence, is a flourishing town further down the river, with 1222 inhabitants. Dayton, on the Miami, at the junction of the Mad river, which furnishes a great number of mill-seats, is a rapidly growing town, in a highly productive region. It carries on an active trade by the Miami Canal, and it contains numerous saw and grist-mills, several woollen and cotton factories, an oil-mill, and other manufactories. Population, in 1840, 6067. COMMONWEALTH OF KENTUCKY. KENTUCKY is bounded on the north by the Ohio river, which separates it from the States of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois ; east by Virginia, south by Tennessee, and west by the Mississippi, which separates it from the State of Missouri ; the greatest length is about 400 miles, breadth 170, area 40,500 square miles. The principal rivers of Kentucky are the Ohio, Mississippi, Tennessee, Cum berland, Kentucky, Green, Licking, Big Sandy, Salt, and Rolling. The Cumberland Mountains form the south-east boundary of the State. The eastern counties, bordering on Virginia, are mountainous and rugged. A tract from 5 to 20 miles wide, along the banks of the Ohio, is hilly and broken land, interspersed with many fertile valleys. Between this strip, Green river, and the eastern counties, lies what has been called the garden of the State. This is the most populous part, and is about 150 miles long, and from 50 to 100 wide. The surface of this district is agreeably undulating, and the soil black and friable, producing black walnut, black cherry, honey locust, buckeye, pawpaw, sugar- tree, mulberry, elm, ash, cotton-wood, and white thorn. The whole State, below the mountains, rests on an immense bed of limestone, usually about eight feet below the surface. There are everywhere apertures in this limestone, through which the waters of the rivers sink into the earth. The large rivers of Ken tucky, for this reason, are more diminished during the dry season, than those of any other part of the United States, and the small streams entirely disappear. The banks of the rivers are natural curiosities ; the rivers having 1 generally worn 76 UNITED STATES. very deep channels in the calcareous rocks over which they flow. The precipices formed by Kentucky river are in many places awfully sublime, presenting per pendicular rocks of 300 feet of solid limestone, surmounted with a steep and difficult ascent, four times as high. The principal productions of Kentucky are corn, hemp, wheat, and tobacco. Salt springs are numerous, and supply not only this State, but a great part of Ohio and Tennessee, with this mineral. The principal manufactures are cloth, spirits, cordage, salt, and maple-sugar. Hemp, tobacco, and wheat, are the principal exports. These are carried down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans, and foreign goods received from the same place in return. Louisville, on the Ohio, is the centre of this trade. In the south-west part of the State, between the Green and Cumberland rivers, are several wonderful caves. The Mammoth Cave, 130 miles from Lexington, on the road to Nashville, is one of the most remarkable caves in the world ; il has been explored to a great distance, and is with good reason supposed to extend for 8 or 10 miles. The earth at the bottom is strongly impregnated with nitre, which has been to a considerable extent manufactured from it. The population, in 1790 was 73,677 ; in 1800, 220,859; in 1810, 401,511 ; in 1820, 564,317; in 1830, 688,844; in 1840, 779,828; of whom 128,258 were slaves. Of the free population, 305,323 were white males ; 284,930 white fe males ; 3761 were coloured males ; 3556 coloured females. Employed in agricul ture, 197,738; in commerce, 3448; in manufactures and trades, 23.217; in navi gating the ocean, 44 ; do. canals, rivers, and lakes, 968 ; in mining, 331 ; in the 'earned professions, 2487. There were in the State, in 1840, 395,853 horses and mules ; 787,098 neat cattle; 1,008,240 sheep; 2,310,533 swine; .poultry to the value of $536,439. There were produced, 4,803,152 bushels of wheat; 17,491 of barley ; 39,847,120 of Indian corn; 1,321,373 of rye; 7,155,974 of oats; 8169 of buckwheat; 1,055,085 of potatoes; 1,786,847 pounds of wool; 38,445 of wax; 53,436,909 of tobacco; 16,376 of rice; 691,456 of cotton ; 1,377,835 of sugar ; 88,306 tons of hay ; 9992 of hemp and flax. The products of the dairy amounted to $931,363 ; of the orchard, to $434,935 ; of lumber, to $130,329. There were 2209 gallons of wine made. Among the mineral productions, iron-ore, coal, salt and lime are abundant. Salt was produced, in 1840, to the amount of 219,695 bushels. Home-made or family manufactures amounted to $2,622,462. The other manufactures, consisting chiefly of cotton and woollen goods, iron, tobacco, cordage, spirits, salt, &c., imounted to $5,945,689. Transylvania University, at Lexington, was founded in 1798, and is a flourishi ng institution. Centre College, at Danville, was founded in 1822 ; St. Joseph's College, at Bardstown, was founded in 1819; Augusta College, at Augusta, was bunded in 1825; Georgetown College, at Georgetown, was founded in 1829; Bacon College, at Harrodsburg, was founded in 1836 ; St. Mary's College, Ma rion county, was founded in 1837. Transylvania University has a flourishing nedical department, and there is a medical institution at Louisville. In the forego" ng institutions there were, in 1840, 1419 students. There were 116 academies ind grammar-schools, with 4906 students; 952 common and primary schools, with 24,641 scholars. There were in the State 40,010 white persons over 20 years jf age who could neither read nor write. The Baptists, the most numerous religious denomination, had in 1836, 500 churches, 300 ministers, and 35,000 communicants. The Methodists had 100 ravelling preachers and 31,400 communicants. The Presbyterians had 120 ihurches and about 10,000 communicants. The Episcopalians had one bishop md 13 ministers. The Roman Catholics had a bishop and 34 ministers. There ivere a considerable number of Cumberland Presbyterians and Reformed Baptists, ;wo societies of Shakers, and one of Unitarians. The most important work of internal improvement is the Louisville and Port- and canal, 2 miles long, around the rapids in Ohio river. It admits steam- soats of the largest class, is 50 feet wide at the surface, is excavated 10 feet deep n a compact limestone, and has an entire lockage of 22 feet. The navigation of KENTUCKY. 77 the Kentucky, Green and Licking rivers has been extensively improved by dams and locks. A rail-road extends from Lexington to Frankfort. It is designed to be continued to Louisville, but is for the present suspended. Several other rail roads have been projected. Lexington is the oldest town in the State, and was for many years the capital ; it is situated in the centre of a rich tract of country, about 20 miles east of Kentucky river. The streets are spacious and regularly laid out, and the houses and public buildings are neat and elegant. This city is more distin guished for its hospitable and polished society, and as an agreeable place of resi dence, than for bustle of business. The public buildings comprise the Halls of Transylvania University, the State Lunatic Asylum, 9 churches, Court-House, Jail, 2 banks, Orphan Asylum, Poor-House, City School-House, &c. There are a number of bagging and rope-factories, iron-founderies, &c. Population, 7500. Frankfort, the capital of the State, stands on the right bank of Kentucky river, on an alluvial bottom, above which the river hills rise abruptly to the height of more than 200 feet. Steam-boats go up to Frankfort, 60 miles from the mouth of the river, and keel-boats much higher. The State-House is a handsome edi fice, built of white marble, taken from the banks of the river ; and there is here a penitentiary conducted on the Auburn plan. Louisville, the principal city in Kentucky, is situated on the south bank of the Ohio river, just above the falls of that river. The Louisville and Port land canal enables large steam-boats to reach Louisville at all stages of the water. This city carries on an extensive and valuable trade, many thousand flat- boats arriving here yearly from all parts of the upper Ohio, and steamboats arriv ing and departing daily. The population, which in the year 1800 amounted to 600, was in 1840, 21,210, and in 1843, 28,643. The public buildings are 25 churches, a City Hall, Court-House, City and County Jail, Marine Hospital, Medical Institute, 5 banks, 4 markets, City Work-House, Hospital, 2 orphan asylums, School for the Blind, &c. Some of the hotels are among the finest in the Union. The manufactures of Louisville are extensive, and include founde- ries, steam-bagging factories, rope-walks, cotton and woollen factories, flouring- mills, &c. Portland is a growing village at the lower end of the canal. Maysville is the first considerable town of Kentucky which is passed in de scending the river Ohio. It is the depot of the upper part of the State, and its trade is pretty extensive. Population in 1840, 2,741. Newport and Covington are thriving towns, situated on the opposite banks of the Licking river, and oppo site to Cincinnati ; they are the seats of some manufacturing industry, as well as of an active trade. The streets of Covington are so laid out that, but for the ntervention of the Ohio river} they would be a continuation of those of Cincinnati. Population, 2026. Among the other towns in Kentucky are Harrodsburg, noted 'or its mineral springs, Danville, the seat of Centre College, Bardstown and 3eorgetown, the seats of Roman Catholic colleges, and Princeton, the seat of Cumberland College. STATE OF TENNESSEE. TENNESSEE is bounded north by Kentucky ; east by North Carolina ; south by GJeorgia, Alabama, and Mississippi ; and west by Arkansas. It is 430 miles ong, and 104 broad, and contains 40,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Tennessee, Cumberland, Clinch, Duck, Holston, French-Broad, Nolichucky, Hiwassee, Tellico, Reelfoot, Obion, Forked Deer, Wolf, and Elk. Tennessee is washed by the Mississippi on the west, and the rivers Tennessee and Cumberland pass through it in very serpentine courses. West Tennessee, lying between the Mississippi and the Tennessee rivers, is a level or slightly un dulating plain : east of this section is Middle Tennessee, of a moderately hilly surface. The eastern part of the State adjoining North Carolina, is known by the name of East Tennessee : it abounds in mountains, many of them lofty, and presenting scenery peculiarly grand and picturesque. Of these mountains the 78 UNITED STATES. Cumberland, or great Laurel Ridge, is the most remarkable. Stone, Iron, Bald, Smoky, or Unaka mountains, join each other, and form, in a direction nearly north-east and south-west, the eastern boundary of the State. The soil in a country so uneven must be very various. The western part of the State has a black, rich soil ; in the middle there is much excellent land ; in the eastern, part of the mountains are barren, but there are many fertile valleys. The climate is generally healthful. In East Tennessee, the heat is so tem pered by the mountain-air on one side, and by refreshing breezes from the Gulf of Mexico on the other, that this part of the State has one of the most desirable climates in North America. The middle part resembles Kentucky in climate. The great business of Tennessee is agriculture. It is the largest corn-growing State in the Union ; in the year 1840, the crop amounted to almost 45 million bushels, or about 53 bushels to every individual in the State. The exports are cotton, corn, tobacco, flour, &c. The principal commerce is carried on through the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers, and from them through the Ohio and Missis sippi to New Orleans. This State also supplies Kentucky, Ohio, &c. with cot ton for inland manufactures ; and from East Tennessee considerable numbers of cattle are sent to the sea-ports on the Atlantic. The most valuable mineral products of Tennessee are iron, gold, coal, and salt. Gold is found in the south-eastern section, but it has not been systematically worked. Iron occurs throughout the State east of the Tennessee ; there is a num ber of furnaces both in East and Middle Tennessee, which produced, in 1840, above 26,000 tons of metal. Coal is found in the Cumberland Mountains of excellent quality. Marble, marl, buhr-stone, nitrous earth, and other useful mine rals are met with, and there are some valuable mineral springs. The population of Tennessee, in 1790, was 35,691 ; in 1800, 105,602; in 1810, 261,727; in 1820, 422,813; in 1830, 681,904; in 1840, 829,210; of whom 183,059 were slaves. Of the free population 325,434 were white males ; 315,193 do. females; 2796 coloured males ; 2728 do. females. Employed in agriculture, 227,739 ; in commerce, 2217 ; in manufactures and trades, 17,815 ; in navigating the ocean, 55 ; do. rivers and canals, 302 ; in the learned professions, 2042. There were in the State in 1840, 341,409 horses and mules; 822,857 neat cattle; 741,593 sheep; 2,926,707 swine. Poultry was valued at $606,969. There were produced 4,569,692 bushels of wheat; 304,320 of rye; 44,986,188 of Indian corn; 17,118 of buckwheat, 7,035,678 of oats; 190,370 of potatoes; 1,060,332 pounds of wool; 29,550,432 of tobacco; 7977 of rice; 27,701,277 of cotton; 258,073 of sugar; 31,233 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $472,141 ; of the orchard at $367,105 ; value of lumber produced $217,606 ; 3366 barrels of tar, pitch, &c., were made. Home-made or family manufactures, in 1840, amounted to $2,886,661. There were 26 woollen factories and 4 fulling-mills, producing articles to the amount of $14,290; 38 cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $325,719; 34 furnaces produced 16,128 tons of cast-iron ; and 99 forges produced 9673 tons of bar-iron ; 21 persons produced 13,942 bushels of bituminous coal ; 5 paper-mills produced articles to the amount of $46,000, and other manufactories of paper produced to the amount of $14,000; the whole employing a capital of $93,000 ; 117 persons produced hats and caps to the amount of $104,949; 454 tanneries employed a capital of $404,114; 374 other manufactories of leather, as saddle ries, &c., produced articles to the amount of $359,050, with a capital of $154,540 ; 29 potteries produced to the amount of $51,600; hardware and cutlery was produced to the amount of $57,170; machinery to the amount of $257,704; 1426 distilleries produced 1,109,107 gallons of distilled spirits; and six breweries produced 1835 gallons of beer ; carriages and wagons to the amount of $219,897 ; 28 rope-walks produced cordage to the amount of $132,630; 255 flouring-mills produced 67,881 barrels of flour; and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $1,020,664, with a capital of $1,310,195. The total amount of capi tal employed in manufactures, in the State, was $3,731,580. Greenville College, at Greenville, in East Tennessee, was founded in 1794; Washington College, in Washington county, was founded in 1794; the Univer- TENNESSEE. 79 sity of Nashville, the principal institution in the State, was founded under Cum berland College, in 1806 ; the East Tennessee College, at Knoxville, was founded in 1807; Jackson College, near Columbia, was founded in 1830; the southwest ern Theological Seminary, at Maysville, was founded in 1821; the number of students in these institutions, in 1840, was 369. There were in the State 152 academies, with 5539 students ; and 983 common and primary schools, with 25,099 scholars. There were in the State 58,531 white persons, over 20 years of age, who could neither read nor write. In 1836 the- Methodists had 127 travelling preachers, and 34,266 communi cants; the Baptists had 413 churches, 219 ministers, and 20,472 communicants; the Presbyterians had 120 churches, 90 ministers, and 10,000 communicants ; the Episcopalians had a bishop and eight ministers. There were besides many Cumberland Presbyterians, and some Lutherans, Friends, Christians, and Roman Catholics. Some works of internal improvement have been commenced, but are at present suspended. A rail-road from Memphis, on the Mississippi, 50 miles, to La Grange, in Lafayette county, is in progress. Somerville branch will extend from the main road, at Moscow, 16 miles, to Somerville. The Hiwassee Rail-road, from Knoxville, 98 miles, to the Georgia line, is intended to unite with the Western and Atlantic Rail-road of Georgia. Nashville, the capital, and the most considerable city of the State, is situated on the south bank of Cumberland river. The site is elevated and uneven; the town is well built, containing, beside some elegant dwelling-houses, a Court- House, Market-House, Jail, Lunatic Asylum, State Penitentiary, 3 banks, 10 churches, the Halls of Nashville University, a female academy, and various other schools. The city is supplied with water from the Cumberland river, which is raised by a steam-engine into a reservoir that is elevated 66 feet above low-water mark ; near a million gallons can be raised every 24 hours. Popula tion, in 1840, 6900. Clarkesville, below Nashville, is a thriving little town. Franklin, to the south of Nashville, is a busy town with 1500 inhabitants, who carry on some branches of mechanical and manufacturing industry pretty extensively. Knoxville, which stands on the right bank of Holston river, was for some time the seat of government, and a place of considerable trade ; its commercial im portance, however, has of late diminished. Population 1500. It contains the Halls of East Tennessee College, a useful and flourishing institution. The other towns of this section, Blountville, Jonesboro, Rogersville, and Maryville, are little villages of 500 or 600 inhabitants each. In the southern part of the State, Winchester, Fayetteville, at the head of navigation on the Elk river, and Pulaski, are thriving little towns ; the last men tioned has 900 inhabitants, and the two others about 700 each. Columbia on the Duck river, is one of the most flourishing towns in the State, and has about 1200 inhabitants ; it is the seat of Jackson College. Murfreesboro, for some time the capital of the State, is pleasantly situated in a very rich and highly cultivated district, and it has a population of 1500. Bolivar, at the head of navigation on the Hatchee, is a very growing and busy town ; Randolph, on the second Chicka- saw Bluff, below the mouth of the Big Hatchee river, has a good harbour for steamboats in all stages of the water, and is conveniently placed for the outlet of a productive region. Memphis is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi river, on the fourth Chickasaw Bluff, where old Fort Pickering stood. It has one of the best sites for a commercial emporium on the Mississippi river. The bluff is 30 feet above the highest floods. The trade of this place is already equal to that of any town between St. Louis and New Orleans. Itcontains 4 churches ; an academy ; 53 stores, and 5000 inhabitants. A United States navy-yard is to be located here, and it is already commenced. A rail-road to La Grange is in use ; it is designed to form a part of the Memphis and Charleston Rail-road. 19 20 80 UNITED STATES. STATE OF INDIANA. INDIANA is bounded on the north by the State of Michigan and Lake Michigan ; east by Ohio ; south by the Ohio river, which separates it from Kentucky, and west by Illinois, from which it is separated in part by the Wabash river. The mean length is about 260, and mean breadth 140 miles ; area, about 36,000 square miles. The Ohio river flows for 350 miles along the southern extremity of the State. Next to the Ohio is the Wabash, which with its branches, the White, Patoka, Tippecanoe, Eel, Salamanic and Mississinewa rivers, water all the central parts of the State. In the north-west is the Kankakee river, a tributary of the Illinois ; in the north and north-east are the rivers St. Joseph of Michigan, and the St. Jo seph of Maumee; the former flows into Lake Michigan, and the latter, uniting with the St. Mary at Fort Wayne, forms the Maumee river, which flows into Lake Erie. In the south-east is the White Water river, a tributary of the Miami. In the south are a number of small rivers and creeks which flow into the Ohio, none of which are of importance. There are no mountains in Indiana ; the country, however, is more hilly than Illinois, particularly towards Ohio river. A range of low hills, called the Knobs, extends from the falls of the Ohio to the Wabash, in a south-west direction, which in many places produce a broken and uneven surface. North of these hills lie the Flat Woods, 70 miles wide. Bordering on all the principal streams, except the Ohio, there are strips of bottom and prairie land ; both together, from three to six miles in width. For a wide extent on the north front of the State, between Wabash river and Lake Michigan, the country is generally an extended plain, alternately prairie and timbered land, with a great proportion of swampy lands, and small lakes and ponds. The prairies bordering on Wabash river are particularly rich, having ordinarily a vegetable soil from 2 to 5 feet deep. Perhaps no part of the western world can show a greater extent of rich land in one body than that portion of the White river country, of which Indianapolis is the centre. The natural growth of the soil consists of oak of several kinds, ash, beech, buckeye, walnut, cherry, maple, elm, sassafras, linden, honey-locust, cotton-wood, sycamore, and mulberry. The principal productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, buckwheat, barley, potatoes, beef, pork, butter, cheese, &c. Iron and coal have been found in the State ; and there are some salt-springs, and epsom-salts are found in a cave near Corydon ; but the mineral productions have no great interest. The population, in 1800, was 5C41 ; in 1810, 24,520 ; in 1820, 147,178 ; in 1830, 341,582; in 1840, 685,866. Of these there were 352,773 white males; 325,925 white females ; 3731 coloured males; 3434 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 148,806 ; in commerce, 3076 ; in manufactures and trades, 20,590 ; in mining, 233 ; in navigating the ocean, 89 ; do. canals, lakes, and* rivers, 677 ; in the learned professions, 2257. In 1840 there were in this State 246,036 horses and mules ; 619,980 neat cattle ; 675,982 sheep ; 1,623,608 swine ; poultry to the value of $357,594. There were produced, 4,049,375 bushels of wheat ; 129,621 of rye; 28,155,887 of Indian corn; 28,015 of barley ; 5,981,605 of oats; 1,525,794 of potatoes; 1,237,919 pounds of wool; 1,820,306 of tobacco ; 3,727,795 of sugar; 38,591 of hops; 30,647 of wax ; 178,647 tons of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $742,269; of the orchard, at $40,055; of lumber, at $420,971; of furs and skins, at $220,883. There were made 10,265 gallons of wine. In 1840, the amount of capital engaged in foreign trade was $1,207,400; in the retail trade, $5,664,687. The amount of home-made or family manufactures was $1,289,802 ; 24 fulling- mills and 37 woollen manufactories produced articles to the amount of $58,867 ; 12 cotton factories produced articles to the amount of $135,400; 7 furnaces pro duced 810 tons of cast-iron; 1 forge produced 20 tons of bar-iron; 47 persons mined 242,040 bushels of bituminous coal ; paper was manufactured to the INDIANA. 81 amount of $86,457 ; tobacco to the amount of $65,659 ; hats and caps to the amount of $122,844; shoes, boots, saddleries, &c., to the amount of $730,001 ; machinery to the amount of $123,808 ; 323 distilleries produced 1,787,108 gallons of distilled spirits; 20 breweries produced 188,392 gallons of beer; carriages and wagons were manufactured to the amount of $163,135; 204 flouring-mills manufactured 224,624 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $2,329,134 ; vessels were built to the amount of $107,223. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $4,132,043. Indiana College, at Bloomington, was founded in 1827; South Hanover Col lege, at South Hanover, in 1829; Wabash College, at Crawfordsville, in 1833; the Indiana Asbury University, in 1839. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 322 students. There were in the State 54 academies, with 2946 students, and 1521 common and primary schools, with 48,189 scholars. In 1840, there were 38,100 white persons over 20 years of age who could neither read nor write. In 1836, the Baptists had 334 churches and 218 ministers; the Presbyterians had 109 churches and 70 ministers; the Methodists about 70 circuit preachers; the Lutherans, in 1830, had 30 congregations and 8 ministers. Besides these there are many Friends, some Episcopalians, Roman Catholics, and some Presby terians, Methodists and Baptists of different descriptions, not included in the above. The principal work of internal improvement undertaken by this State is the Wabash and Erie canal, which extends from Lafayette, at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Wabash, 187 miles, to the navigable waters of Lake Erie at Toledo, on Maumee Bay. The Whitewater Canal extends from Lawrenceville, at the mouth of the river, 76 miles, to Cambridge city, on the National Road. It is also to be extended by a branch to Cincinnati, which is in progress. The Madison and Indianapolis rail-road, from Madison on the Ohio river, 95 miles to Indianapolis, is in progress and nearly completed. Other works of internal im provement have been projected and begun, but are at present suspended. Indianapolis, the capital of the State, stands on the left bank of the west fork of White river ; it is laid out with much regularity, and with wide, spacious streets. The public buildings are the State-House, Governor's House, a bank, 11 churches, 10 schools, 4 libraries, 1 county seminary, with philosophical and chemical ap paratus, 4 printing-offices, 48 stores, 10 mills of various kinds, and various other manufacturing establishments. Population, in 1843, about 3500, The national road passes through the town. New Albany is the largest town in the State ; it is on the Ohio river, a few miles below the falls. Population, 4226. The principal buildings are a Court- House, Jail, 9 churches, bank, insurance office, Lyceum, male and female semi nary, theological college, &c. ; there are also a number of manufactories of va rious kinds. Jeffersonville, which stands opposite to Louisville, is a thriving town, with 800 inhabitants. It contains the State prison. Madison, on the Ohio river, some distance farther up, is a flourishing town with 3798 inhabitants ; it has 6 churches, a Court-House, Jail, Bank, Savings Bank, 50 stores, with several manufactories, mills, &c. Vevay was founded by a Swiss colony, with 1200 inhabitants. The grape has been successfully cultivated here, and the town is surrounded by vineyards. Lawrenceburg, on the Ohio, just below the mouth of White Water river, carries on an extensive trade, but its site being low, it is sometimes subject to inundation during very high stages of the water. New Harmony, on the Wabash river, was founded by the German sect called Harmonites, under the direction of Mr. Rapp. In 1824 it was bought by Mr. Owen, of Lanark, who attempted to put in operation here his new Social System : the scheme failed, and his followers were dispersed, but the village is now a flourishing place in other hands. Vincennes, higher up the river, is the oldest town in the State ; it was founded by the French, in 1730. It contains 2000 inhabitants, about a fifth of whom are French. Terre Haute, Lafayette, and Logansport, are small but flourishing towns on the Wabash river. Richmond, ton the National Road, near the Ohio State line, is also a populous little town. The city of Michigan, founded in 1835, at the head of Lake Michigan, is the only harbour on the lake in the State. It is well situated for trade, and has about 700 inhabitants. 82 UNITED STATES. STATE OF ILLINOIS. THIS fertile and improving State is bounded north by Wisconsin Territory, east by Indiana, south by Kentucky, and west by the States of Missouri and Iowa. Its medium length is about 350 miles, and medium breadth 170; the area being 59,500 square miles. The Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash, form about two-thirds of the whole boundary of the State. The other most considerable rivers are the Illinois, Kas- kaskia, Muddy, Little Wabash, Rock, Sangamon, Embarras, Fox, Des Plaines, &c. - The southern and middle parts of the State are for the most part level. The north-western section is a hilly, broken country, though there are no high hills. The climate resembles that of Indiana and Ohio. The soil is generally very fertile, and yields abundant harvests. Corn is the staple agricultural production of the State. Wheat is also raised in large quantities, and yields flour of superior quality ; rye is much used for dis tillation. Hemp, tobacco, and cotton, are cultivated ; the latter is mostly con sumed in household manufactures. Large herds of cattle are kept, and great numbers are driven out of the State, or sent down the river in flat-boats. Thou sands of hogs are raised, and pork is largely exported. Coal, salt, and lime, iron, lead, and copper, are among the mineral productions of Illinois. Coal is abundant in many quarters, and is worked to some extent. Lead is found in the north-western corner of the State in exhaustless quantities. The Indians and French had been long accustomed to procure the ore, but it was not until 1822 that the process of separating the metal was begun. Since that time the business has been actively pursued, and as much as 6000 tons of lead have been smelted in one year. Some salt is made near Shawneetown ; near Danville, on the Little Vermillion; and near Brownville, on Muddy creek. The salt springs are owned by the United States, and leased to the manufacturers. The population of Illinois has increased with the same amazing rapidity as that of the neighbouring States. The constitution provides that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall hereafter be introduced into the State, otherwise than for the punishment of crimes ; and as negroes coming into the State are required to give bonds with security, that they will not become chargeable as paupers, there are few blacks. The population, in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211 ; in 1830, 157,575; in 1840, 476,183; of whom 255,235 were white males; 217,019 do. females; 1876 coloured males ; 1722 do. females. Employed in agriculture, 105,337; in com merce, 2506; in manufactures and trades, 13,185; in mining, 782 ; in navigating the ocean, 63; do. lakes, rivers, and canals, 310; in the learned professions, 2021. There were in the State, in 1840, 199,235 horses and mules; 626,274 neat cattle; 395,672 sheep ; 1,495,254 swine. Poultry valued at $309,204. There were produced, 3,335,393 bushels of wheat; 82,251 of barley; 4,988,008 of oats ; 88,197 of rye; 57,884 of buckwheat ; 22,634,211 of Indian corn ; 2,025,520 of potatoes; 650,007 pounds of wool ; 17,742 of hops; 200,947 of cotton ; 564,326 of tobacco; 399,813 of sugar; 1150 of silk cocoons; 1976 tons hemp and flax; 164/J32 of hay. The products of the dairy were valued at $428,175; of the orchard at $126,756; of lumber at $203,666 ; of skins and furs at $39,412. Home-made or family manufactures amounted to $993,567; 4 fulling-mills and 16 woollen manufactories produced goods to the amount of $9540 ; 5 fur naces produced 158 tons of cast-iron; 20 smelting-houses produced 8,755,000 pounds of lead ; 22 persons produced 20,000 bushels of salt; hats and caps were manufactured to the amount of $28,395; 155 tanneries employed a capital of $155,679; 626 other manufactories of leather, as saddleries, &c., produced arti cles to the amount of $247,217; machinery was produced to the amount of $37,720; 150 distilleries produced 1,551,684 gallons of distilled spirits; 11^ breweries produced 90,300 gallons of beer; carriages and wagons were produced to the amount of $144,362 ; 98 flouring-mills produced 172,657 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, manufactured articles to the amount of $2,417,826; vessels ILLINOIS. 83 were built to the amount of $39,200. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $3,136,512. Illinois College, at Jacksonville, was founded in 1829 ; Shurtleff College, in Upper Alton, in 1835; M'Kendree College, in Lebanon, in 1834 ; M'Donough College, at Macomb, in 1837. In these institutions there were, in 1840, 311 students. There were in the State 42 academies, with 1967 students; 1241 common and primary schools, with 34,876 scholars, and 27,502 white persons, over 21 years of age, who could neither read nor write. The Methodists are the most numerous denomination ; the Baptists and Pres byterians are the next in point of numbers ; the Episcopalians and Roman Ca tholics are less numerous ; and there are some other denominations. In 1836 this State adopted an extensive system of internal improvements, con sisting of canals and rail-roads, most of which must be left to another generation to complete. The Illinois and Michigan Canal, the most important of them all, is in progress, and will probably be completed. It extends from Chicago river, about 5 miles from Chicago, to the head of steamboat navigation on the Illinois river, at Peru, 106 miles ; it is 60 feet wide at the top, and 6 feet deep. A rail road extends from Springfield, 53 miles, to Merodosia, on Illinois river. Coal Mine Bluffs Rail-road extends from Mississippi river, 6 miles, to the coal mine. Other rail-roads have been commenced, but they are at present suspended. The principal town in Illinois is Chicago, on Lake Michigan, at the mouth of a small river of the same name. The canal now in progress from this city to the Illinois river, when completed, will bring to it a vast increase of trade. It is situated on both sides of the river. An artificial harbour has been made by the construction of piers, which, extending some distance into the lake, prevent the accumulation of sand on the bar. The town has grown up within 10 or 12 years, and contains 6 churches, a Court-House, Jail, U. S. Land-Office, an academy, Fire Insurance Co., with numerous stores and manufactories. The city is supplied with water from the lake. Population, in 1840, 4500. Vandalia, the late capital of the State, is a small town with 800 inhabitants. It is on the route of the National Road, on the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, about 80 miles north-east of St. Louis. Alton, situated two miles and a half above the mouth of the Missouri, and eighteen below that of the Illinois, on the Mississippi river, is the most commercial town in the State. Possessing a com modious harbour, with an excellent landing for steamboats, it has become the centre of an active and growing trade. Population, 2340. There are here 6 churches, a bank, Lyceum, Mechanics' Association, 8 schools, a penitentiary, and 3 printing-offices ; and the picturesque site of the town is well set off by its neat houses, surrounded by tasteful piazzas and gay shrubbery. Upper Alton, 3 miles in the rear of Alton, is the seat of Shurtleff College, and a theological seminary. Edwardsville is a neat and thriving village, to the north ofAlton. Cahokia and Kaskaskia are old French villages on the American Bottom, set tled as early as the year 1683, ffith from 500 to 800 inhabitants each, most of whom are French. Springfield, the capital of Illinois, is near the centre of the State, on the border of a beautiful prairie, and surrounded by one of the most fertile tracts in the Union. It contains the State-House, Court-House, market-house, Jail, U. S. Land-Office, 3 academies, 6 churches, 34 stores, one iron-foundery, 4 carding machines, 3 printing-offices. Population, 2579. Jacksonville is one of the largest inland towns in the State ; it is on an ele vated ground, in the midst of a delightful prairie. Population, 2500. Carroll- ton, further south; is also a growing village. Peoria is situated at the foot of the lake of that name, and on the Illinois river. It contains 1467 inhabitants. Ottawa, above the Rapids, and near the western termination of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, is also a flourishing village, with deep water and a good landing. Quincy is on the east bank of the Mississippi, 104 miles west of Springfield ; it is a thriving town, and has 1500 inhabitants. Rock Island city is at the junction of the Mississippi and Brock rivers ; it is laid out on an extensive scale, and includes Stephenson village. Population, 700. Galena city, near the north- 84 UNITED STATES. west corner of the State, is the metropolis of the lead region of Illinois and Wis consin ; it is on Fever river, 6 miles from the Mississippi, and is accessible to steamboats at all stages of the water. Large quantities of lead are shipped from Galena every season. Population, 1500. Nauvoo, the city of the Mormons, is situated on the east bank of the Missis sippi river, 124 miles north-west of Springfield ; it is 4 miles by 3 in extent, and contains more than 1000 buildings and 7000 inhabitants. The chief public buildings are the Nauvoo-House, a spacious hotel, in part of which Joe Smith, the late Mormon prophet, resided ; the Nauvoo Temple, an edifice 130 by 100 feet, designed as the grand Cathedral of the Mormon sect; and a university, with a president and several professors. A military body, called the Nauvoo Legion, consisting of from 2000 to 3000 men, properly officered, armed and disciplined, has been organized here. About 3000 Mormons reside beyond the bounds of the city. It is proposed to call this place the City of Joseph, in honour of the de ceased prophet. STATE OF MICHIGAN. THE State of Michigan consists of two distinct peninsulas. The southernmost, or Michigan Proper, has its base resting upon the States of Ohio and Indiana, and is bounded on the east and northeast by Lake Huron, for a distance of 250 miles ; Lake Michigan is its western boundary for an extent of 260 miles. It is in length about 288, and in breadth, at the widest part, 190 miles. Area, 38,000 square miles. The northern peninsula lies north-west of the southern ; it was nominally at tached to Michigan, while under a territorial government, and was added perma nently to her territory when admitted into the Union as a State. It is bounded north by Lake Superior; east by St. Mary's river; south by Lake Michigan; and south-west by the Mennomonie and Montreal rivers ; length, from east to west, about 320 miles; breadth, from 160 to 30 or 40 miles; area, 28,000 square miles ; area of the State, 66,000 miles. The northern peninsula is yet but imperfectly known ; the surface is more irre gular than that of the southern section, and is much less suited for agricultural purposes ; but it is nevertheless important on account of the Quantities of pine timber, and minerals, which abound in various parts; and also from the valuable fisheries on the shores of Lake Superior. The shores of the latter are mostly low, and but little indented by bays and harbours ; and as the prevailing winds are from the north-west, and sweep with great fury over the lake, navigation is more stormy and dangerous than along the Canada shore. The Pictured Rocks are a remarkable natural curiosity, and extend along the southern shore of Lake Superior, a distance of*12 miles. They form a perpen dicular wall, 300 feet high, presenting a great variety of romantic projections and indentations, having the appearance of landscapes, buildings, and various objects delineated by the hand of man ; among the features that attract admiration are the cascade La Portaille, and the Doric Arch. The cascade consists of a con siderable stream precipitated from the height of about 70 feet, by a single leap, into the lake. The Doric Rock, or Arch, has the appearance of a work of art, consisting of an isolated mass of sandstone, with 4 pillars, supporting a stratum or entablature of stone, covered with soil, and giving support to a handsome growth of spruce and pine trees, some of which are 50 or 60 feet high. The native inhabitants of this region are some bands of the Chtppeways, on the shores of Lake Superior, comprising only about 1400 or 1500. The southern peninsula is generally a level country, having no elevation that can properly be called a hill ; its centre is a table-land, elevated 30 or 40 feet above the level of the lakes. Along the coast of Lake Huron there are in places hitjh bluffs : and along the east shore of Lake Michigan are hills of pure sand, of from 50 to several hundred feet in height, which have been blown up by the almost constant western winds sweeping over the lake. MICHIGAN. 85 The peninsula abounds in rivers : none of them have much extent of course, and but few are navigable to any considerable distance inland. Grand river is the largest: it empties into Lake Michigan : its whole course is about 150 miles, and it is navigable 50 miles from the lake to the rapids for sloops and steam boats, and above that point there is sufficient depth of water for boats 50 miles farther. The St. Joseph's river is a considerable stream, and empties into Lake Michigan at the south-west angle of the territory. It is, like Grand river, navi gable for large sloops to the rapids, and above them has a still farther extent of boat navigation. It flows through a very fertile region, variegated by prairies and high forests; the country on this river is not surpassed, in point of beauty and fertility, by any in the L nion. The other considerable streams which flow into Lake Michigan are the Kalamazoo, Grand, Maskegon, Pentwater, Manistic, and Aux Betises. Those which flow into Lake Erie are the Raisin and Huron rivers. The Clinton is the only considerable river which falls into Lake St. Clair. The Belle, and Black, or Dulude, fall into St. Clair river. The Saginaw, running northward, falls into Saginaw Bay, of Lake Huron. Many other, but smaller streams, fall into the same lake, such as the Thunder Bay, Sandy, Aux Carpe and Cheboeigon rivers. Wheat, Indian corn, and the other productions of this section of the Union, are raised easily, and in abundance. It is a country highly favourable to cultivated grasses. No inland country, according to its age, population, and circumstances, has a greater trade. A number of steam-boats and lake vessels are constantly plying in this trade, which is with Detroit, Chicago, Ohio and New York. The climate of this region, in consequence of its being level and peninsular, and adjacent to such large bodies of water, is more temperate than could be ex pected from its latitude. The southern counties have mild winters, and the spring opens as early as in any part of the United States in the same latitude : the po sition of the northern division subjects it to a Canadian temperature. The winter commences early in November, and does not terminate until the end of March. The population, in 1810, was 4528 ; in 1820, 9048 ; in 1830, 31,639 ; in 1840, 212,267. Of these 113,395 were white males; 98,165 do. females; 393 co loured males ; 314 do. females. Employed in agriculture, 56,521 ; in commerce, 728; in manufactures and trades, 6890; in navigating the ocean, 24 ; do. canals, lakes, and rivers, 166; in mining, 40; in the learned professions, 904. There were in 1840. 30,144 horses and mules; 185,190 neat cattle; 99,618 sheep ; 295,890 swine ; poultry was produced to the value of $82,730. There were produced 2,157,108 bushels of wheat; 127,802 of barley; 2,114,057 of oats ; 34,236 of rye ; 2,227,039 of Indian corn ; 1 1 3,592 of buckwheat ; 2,109,205 of potatoes ; 153,375 pounds of wool ; 1,329,784 of sugar ; 130,805 tons of hay ; 755 of hemp or flax. The products of the dairy were valued at $301,052 ; of the orchard at $16,905 ; and of lumber at $392,325. The exports of Michigan, in 1840, amounted to $162,229 ; and the imports to $138,610. Capital employed in foreign trade $177,500; capital employed in the retail trade $2,228,988 ; capital employed in the lake fisheries $28,640. The amount of home-made or family articles was $113,955 ; capital employed in manufactures, in 1840, $3,112,240; more than $2,400,000 of which was in vested in flouring, and other mills. Michigan University, at Ann Arbor, has departments of literature, science, and the arts, and of law and medicine. It has academic branches at Detroit, Ann Arbor, Monroe, Kalamazoo, White Pigeon, and Tecumseh. Marshall College, at Marshall, and St. Philip's College, near Detroit, are respectable institutions. These colleges had, in 1840, 158 students. There were in the State 12 acade mies, with 485 students ; and 975 common and primary schools, with 29,701 scholars. There were 2173 white persons, over 20 years of age, that could nei ther read nor write. In 1836 the Presbyterians had 42 churches and 19 ministers; the Baptists had 17 churches and 11 ministers; the Roman Catholics had one bishop and 18 ministers ; the Episcopalians had one bishop and 4 ministers ; and the Metho dists were considerably numerous. The most important works of internal improvement are the Central Rail-road, 86 UNITED STATES. now completed from Detroit to Jackson, 80 miles ; the Southern Railroad is completed and in operation from Monroe to Adrian, 36 miles. The Erie and Kalamazoo Rail-road is in operation, 30 miles, from Toledo to Adrian. The Detroit and Pontiac Rail-road is in operation, 25 miles, from Detroit to Pontiac. Other works which have been projected are, for the present, suspended or aban doned. / The city of Detroit, the capital of Michigan, stands on the western shore of Detroit river, which unites Lakes Erie and St. Clair. Few places are better situ ated for a commercial city, and few have a more solid promise of permanent pros perity. It is regularly laid out with the streets crossing each other at right angles. The chief public buildings are the State-House, City Hall, 8 churches, 4 banks, 3 market-houses, a theatre, circus, State Penitentiary, County Jail, Go vernment Magazine, Mechanics' Hall, &c. There are 3 female seminaries, seve ral high schools for boys, and 12 public schools. The Michigan State Library contains 2000 volumes. Detroit is finely situated for trade ; the navigation of the river and lake are open about 8 months in the year. The arrivals of vessels and steam-boats is about 300 annually, and clearances the same. The tonnage of the port, in 1840, was 11,432. Population, 9102. Monroe, on the river Raisin, 2 miles from its mouth, is a town of consider able trade. A ship canal, 100 feet wide and 12 deep, connects it with the lakes; steam-boats from Buffalo and Detroit stop here. Population, 1703. Adrain, higher up on the same river, has 2496 inhabitants. St. Joseph's, at the mouth of the St. Joseph's river, is the most important town on the east shore of Lake Michigan. Marshall, on the Kalamazoo river, and Pontiac, at the northern termi nation of the Detroit and Pontiac Rail-road, are thriving towns in the interior. Mackinaw, on Michillimackinae Island, in the northern part of Lake Huron, was long noted for its fur trade. Sault St. Mary (pronounced Soo St. Mary) is on the river St. Mary, near to where it flows out of Lake Superior; it is the most northern town in the State, and has about 900 inhabitants. Great quantities of white fish and lake trout are caught here; they are salted and exported to a con siderable amount. The navigation is closed from the middle of November until the 1st of May. In winter the thermometer often sinks to 20 or 30 below zero, and the mercury sometimes freezes. STATE OF MISSOURI. MISSOURI is bounded north by Iowa ; west by the Western or Indian Territory ; east by the Mississippi river, which separates it from Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee ; and south by the State of Arkansas. Its length is about 280 miles, and medium breadth 230, the area being about 65,000 square miles. The Mis sissippi river forms the whole of the eastern, and the Missouri a portion of the western boundary of the State. The western line of the State, south of the Mis souri river, is the meridian which passes through the point of junction of the Kansas and the Missouri rivers. Besides the great rivers Mississippi and Missouri, this State is watered by others of smaller magnitude. The largest are the Osage, Grand, Salt, Chariton, Gasconade, Merrimac or Maranec, Big Black, and St. Francis. The Osage is a large river, navigable for boats 660 miles. Between the Osage and Missouri, and north of the latter, the country is undulating and agreeably diversified ; while in the south-east, between the Big Black river and the Mississippi, the whole tract, with the exception of a narrow strip on the border of the latter, is a low, inun dated morass, forming a portion of the great swamp of which the principal part is in the State of Arkansas. The lands bordering on the Missouri are very fertile. They consist of a stra tum of black alluvial soil, of unknown depth. On receding from the banks of the rivers, the land rises, passing sometimes gradually, and sometimes abruptly, into elevated barrens, flinty ridges, and rocky cliffs. A portion of the State is, therefore, unfit for cultivation; but this part of it, however, is rich in mineral MISSOURI. 87 treasures. The land is either very fertile or very poor; it is either bottom land or cliff, either prairie or barren : there is very little of an intermediate quality. The climate is remarkably serene and temperate, and very favourable to health. Missouri is admirably adapted for a grazing country, and large herds of cattle, horses, and swine are raised. Beef, pork, tallow, hides, and live-stock constitute important articles of export. Cotton is produced in the southern part of the State, but not in considerable quantities ; tobacco is more extensively grown, and hemp, wheat, Indian corn, and the other cereal grains are cultivated with success. The lead mines of Missouri are estimated to cover an area of 3000 square miles; the centre of the lead district is about 70 miles south-west from St. Louis. These mines were wrought by the French 100 years ago. In 1840, there was made here about 2400 tons of lead. South of the lead region is the noted iron mountain, one of the greatest curiosities of the kind in the world ; it is a mile broad at its base, 3 miles long, and from 300 to 450 feet high, filled with mica ceous oxide of iron, which yields 80 per cent, of the pure metal. Not far distant is another body of iron ore equally rich, called the Pilot Knob, a mile and a half wide at the base, and 300 feet high. In this region are likewise found copper, zinc, manganese, antimony, calamine, cobalt, &c. Numerous shot-factories are established along the high rocky bluffs of the Mis sissippi, which renders the erection of towers unnecessary. Iron is found in inexhaustible quantities, and is pretty extensively wrought. Coal also abounds particularly along the Missouri, and aluminous and nitrous earth, marble, salt- springs, sulphuretted and thermal waters, &c., occur. The population of the State, in 1810, was 19,833; in 1820, 66,586; in 1830, 140,074; in 1840, 383,702; of whom 58,240 were slaves. Of the free popula tion, 173,470 were white males; 150,418 white females; 883 coloured males; 691 coloured females. Employed in agriculture, 92,408 ; in commerce, 2522 ; in manufactures and trades, 11,100; in mining, 742; in navigating the ocean, 39 ; do. rivers, lakes and canals, 1885; in the learned professions, 1496. By a cen sus taken bv authority of the State in 1844, the population was found to have increased to "ill, 937, of whom 70,300 were slaves. There were in 1840, 196,132 horses and mules; 433,875 neat cattle ; 348,018 sheep; 1,271,161 swine. There were produced, 1,037,386 bushels of wheat; 68,608 of rye ; 17,332,524 of Indian corn ; 15,318 of buckwheat ; 9801 of barley ; 2,234,947 of oats; 783,768 of potatoes; 562,265 pounds of wool; 9,067,913 of tobacco; 121,121 of cotton ; 274,853 of sugar; 49,083 tons of hay; 18,010 of hemp or flax ; poultry valued at $270,647. The products of the dairy were valued at $100,432; of the orchard, at $90,878 ; of lumber, at $70,355. Home-made or family manufactures amounted to $1,149,544 ; 9 woollen manu factories produced articles to the amount of $13,750; 2 furnaces produced 180 tons of cast-iron, and 4 forges produced 118 tons of bar-iron ; 21 smel ting-houses produced 5,295,455 pounds of lead ; 69 persons produced 249,302 bushels of bituminous coal; 36 persons produced 13,150 bushels of salt; machinery was produced to the amount of $190,412; 293 distilleries produced 508,368 gallons of distilled spirits ; 7 breweries produced 374,700 gallons of beer ; wagons and carriages were produced to the amount of $97,112; 64 flouring-mills produced 49,363 barrels of flour, and, with other mills, produced articles to the amount of $960,058. The total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $2,704,405. The University of St. Louis was founded in 1829; Kemper College, at St. Louis, in 1840; St. Mary's College, at the Barrens in St. Genevieve county, in iS30 ; Marion College, in Marion county, in 1831 ; St. Charles College, in 1839 ;* and Missouri University, at Columbia, in 1840; Fayette College, at Fayette, is a new institution. In the colleges founded before 1839, there were, in 1840, 495 students. There were in the State, 47 academies with 1926 students; and 642 common and primary schools, with 16,788 scholars. There were 19,457 white persons over 20 years of age who could neither read nor write. In 1836, the Methodists had 51 travelling preachers, and 8692 members; the Baptists had 146 churches, 86 ministers, and 4972 communicants; the Presbyte rians had 33 churches and 17 ministers ; the Roman Catholics had one bishop z -__--. : _..-_ : _j_ 1 - : --_-..- -^ . ^r^_:^^_- ,_^^^.^ ^-^^.^^^^^.^ _.- i 3D UNITED STATES. and 30 ministers; the Episcopalians had three ministers. There were besides, a number of Cumberland and Associate Reformed Presbyterians. St. Louis is the commercial capital of Missouri, and the largest town west of the Mississippi. It is built on two banks, the first, not much raised above the level of the river, contains two narrow streets running parallel with its course, and the second, or higher bank, which spreads out into a wide plain in the rear, comprises the rest of the city. The upper part is well laid out, with spacious and wide streets. This city was founded in 1764, but it continued to be an inconsi derable village while the country remained in the hands of the Spaniards and French. It is the emporium of the Upper Missouri and Mississippi, and must continue to increase in importance as the vast regions to the north and west become settled. The lead mines in its vicinity, and the establishments connected with the Indian agencies, land-offices, &c., also create a good deal of business. The population is now chiefly composed of Americans, besides French, Ger mans, &c. The city contains 21 churches, a Land-Office, Theatre, Bank, 2 In surance Companies, Museum, Masonic Hall, 2 Orphan Asylums, the St. Louis University, Western Academy of Natural Sciences, 80 schools, and a United States Arsenal. The city is supplied with water raised by steam-power from the Mississippi to a reservoir on an elevated ancient mound, whence it is distributed over the town in iron pipes. A company is also formed for lighting the streets with gas. St. Louis is the principal depot of the American Fur Company, who have a large establishment here with 1000 men in their employ, who collept and dispose of a vast amount of furs. The arrivals of steam-boats at this port have amounted to 800 in a year, with a tonnage of 100,000 tons. Population in 1830, 5852; in 1840, 16,469; in 1844, 34,140. Jefferson United States' barracks are on the bank of the Mississippi, 10 miles below the city, and can accommodate about 700 men. St. Charles, 20 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and the same distance from St. Louis, is a pleasant village, with 1042 inhabitants, of whom many are of French descent ; it consists of five streets that run parallel with the river, on which are some handsome buildings. St. Charles was for a numbeji of years the capital of the State. Jefferson city, on the south side of the Missouri river, and near the centre of the State, is the capital of Missouri ; it contains the State-House, and a Peniten tiary; its site is not a fortunate selection, and it has not in consequence pros pered. Population, 1175. Higher up the stream are the villages of Franklin, Booneville, Keytesville, Lexington, and Liberty. Independence, a town south of the Missouri river, and near the western boun dary of the State, is the point from whence the traders to Santa Fe and the emi grants to Oregon commence their respective journeys. Such numbers sometimes collect on these occasions, that they cannot be accommodated with lodgings in the town, but encamp in the fields in the vicinity. Platte city, on Platte river, and Weston on the Mississippi, above Fort Leavenworth, are thriving towns. Herculaneum, 30 miles below St. Louis, is a small town, which contains nume rous shot-works, and serves as one of the ports of the lead district. Population. 1607. St. Genevieve is another old French village, built on a high alluvial bank which the river is now washing away. Cape Girardeau, situated on a high bluff in the midst of a rich district, is the dep6t of the southern part of the State. Po pulation, 1728. New Madrid is an inconsiderable village, on a high alluvial bank, which, like that of St. Genevieve, has been mostly carried away by the river. The village also suffered from the earthquake of 181 1. Population, about 500. STATE OF ARKANSAS. ARKANSAS is bounded on the north by Missouri, east by the Mississippi river, which separates it from Tennessee and the State of Mississippi, south by Lou isiana, and west by the Western or Indian Territory and the northern part of Texas. Its southern line is the 33 of north latitude; the northern 36 30'. Its ARKANSAS. length, from north to south, is 245 miles, and mean breadth about 212; its area is 51,960 square miles. The principal river, besides the Mississippi, is the Arkansas. Its course is nearly through the centre of the State from west to east; and it affords at all times steam-boat navigation to Little. Rock, 300 miles from its mouth, and occa sionally to Fort Gibson, nearly 350 miles farther. The other important streams are the Red river, St. Francis, White, and Washita rivers. The surface of the country exhibits much variety. In the eastern portion, along the Mississippi river, it is level, and often overflown by that noble river. In the central part it is undulating and broken, and in the western section it is traversed by the Ozark Mountains, which are estimated to attain an altitude of about 2000 feet above the ocean. The other considerable elevations are the Black Hills, north of the Arkansas, and the Washita Hills, on the head waters of the Washita river. The soil is of all qualities, from the most productive to the most sterile ; much of it is of the latter description. It has, however, a sufficient amount of excellent land to enable it to become a rich and populous State. Of the products of Arkansas, cotton is the staple; corn and sweet-potatoes thrive well ; wheat, and other small grains, have not been cultivated to a great extent; peaches are remarkably fine ; but apples do not succeed so well. The wild fruits, grapes, plums, &c., are abundant. Among the curiosities may be men tioned the vast masses of sea-shells that are found in different places: they answer a valuable purpose to the inhabitants, who collect and burn them for lime. The hot or warm springs, on the head waters of the Washita river, are among the most interesting curiosities of the country; they are remarkably limpid and pure, and are used by the people who resort there for health, for culinary purposes. They have been analyzed, and exhibit no mineral properties beyond common spring-water. Their efficacy undoubtedly results from the refreshing mountain breezes, the conveniences of warm and tepid bathing, and the novel and romantic scenery of the surrounding regions. The population of Arkansas in 1830, was 30,388 ; in 1840, 97,574 ; of which 19,935 were slaves. Of the free population, 42,211 were white males; 34,963 white females; 248 coloured males ; 217 coloured females. Employed in agri culture, 26,355 ; in commerce, 215 ; in manufactures and trades, 1 173 ; navigating the ocean, 3; do. rivers, canals, &c., 39; in the learned professions, 301. There were, in 1840, 51,472 horses and mules; 188,786 neat cattle ; 42,151 sheep; 393,058 swine. There were produced, 105,878 bushels of wheat; 4,846,642 of Indian corn; 199,553 of oats; 293,608 of potatoes; 6,028,642 pounds of cotton; 148,439 of tobacco. The capital employed in foreign trade amounted to $91,000; capital in the retail trade, $1,578,719. The home-made or family articles made in 1840 amounted to $489,750. There is but little attention yet bestowed on manufactures ; the capital employed in them amounted to $424,467. There is no college in this State. There were 8 academies, with 300 students ; 113 schools, with 2614 scholars. The principal religious denominations are Me thodists and Baptists ; there are also Presbyterians, Episcopalians and Roman Catholics. Little Rock, the capital of Arkansas, is on the south bank of Arkansas river, and at the head of permanent steam-boat navigation on that stream. It is on a high bluff, elevated from 150 to 200 feet above the river, and is the first place in which rocks occur above its mouth. It is regularly laid out, and contains a State- House, Court-House, Jail, 5 churches, 2 banks, a theatre, an academy, a United States Arsenal, United States Land Office, Penitentiary, 21 stores, 2 steam saw mills, 500 dwelling's, and about 3000 inhabitants. Helena, on the west bank of Mississippi river, contains a Court-House, Jail, U. S. Land Office, 10 stores, and 500 inhabitants. Fayetteville contains a Court- House, Jail, a U. S. Land Office, and about 450 inhabitants. Columbia, on the Mississippi river, has a Court-House, Jail, 75 dwellings, and 500 inhabitants. Arkansas, on the north bank of Arkansas river, 6n a high bluff with flats in the vicinity, which are inundated at times by the White river, contains a Court- UNITED STATES. louse, Jail, about 50 dwellings, and 300 inhabitants. These are the most im- )ortant towns. Since the opening of the Great Raft, and the improvement of the mvigation of Red river, this section of the State has been improving. THE STATE OF IOWA. THIS State comprises about a fourth part of the late Territory of Iowa, it lies mmediately east of the Mississippi river and north of the State of Missouri. It las an area of 45,000 square miles. The south-eastern section of the territory is Jie only part yet settled, and is a beautiful, fertile, healthful region, interspersed with timber land and prairie, and abounding in springs and mill-streams. The principal rivers of Iowa, besides the Mississippi, which forms its eastern Boundary, are the Blue-Earth, Upper Iowa, Turkey, Maquekota, Wapsipimecon, Red-Cedar, Iowa, Chicagua or Skunk, and Des Moines. The products of the soil are the same as those of the neighbouring States : wheat, corn, rye, oats, and potatoes, all grow with great luxuriance, and are of excellent quality. The mineral region of Iowa appears to be connected with that of Wisconsin, and is equally rich in metal. The limits of the country containing he lead ore are unknown, but it probably extends hundreds of miles towards, and nto the State of Missouri : besides lead ; copper, iron and coal are known to abound. Few portions of the United States have excited so much attention as Iowa ; it s settling more rapidly than any other portion of the western country with enter prising and industrious inhabitants. A number of towns have been laid out ; of which some that are situated on the Mississippi, are increasing very fast. Iowa was erected into a separate territorial government June 1838, and an ac was passed by Congress and approved March 3, 1845, admitting it into the Union as a State, subject to the condition of being approved of or rejected by the people at the next ensuing election. The population, in 1840, was 43,111. Of these there were employed in agriculture 10,469 ; in commerce 355 ; in manufactures and trades 1629 ; in mining '217 ; in navigating the ocean, rivers, and canals 91 in the learned professions 365. There were in- Iowa, in 1840, 10,794 horses and mules; 38,049 neat cattle 15,354 sheep ; 104,899 swine ; poultry was valued at $16,529. There were pro duced 154,693 bushels of wheat; 3792 of rye ; 1,406,241 of Indian corn ; 6212 of buckwheat; 216,385 of oats; 728 of barley; 234,063 of potatoes; 23,033 pounds of wool; 8706 of tobacco; 41,450 of sugar; 17,953 tons of hay; 313 of hemp or flax. The products of the dairy were valued at $23,609 ; of lumber a $50,280 ; of skins and furs at $33,594. Home-made or family manufactures, in 1840, amounted to $25,966. Th< total amount of capital employed in manufactures was $199,645. The University of Iowa, at Mount Pleasant, has been chartered by the territo rial legislature, under the direction of 21 trustees ; 7 academies have been incor porated. In 1840 there was in operation one academy with 25 students. There were 63 common and primary schools, with 1500 scholars. Iowa City, the capital of the territory, is at the head of navigation on lows river, and 70 miles from the Mississippi: population 800: houses 150. Thf capitol is a handsome edifice built in the Doric style of architecture, 120 feet b) 60. Burlington, the first capital of Iowa, is on the west bank of the Mississipp river, 250 miles above St. Louis. The town is regularly laid out, and contains several public buildings ; the stores are numerous, and the business is very con siderable. Population, 1400. Dubuque is also on the west bank of the Missis sippi, and about 180 miles higher up that stream than Burlington; it is the com mercial capital of the mining district of Iowa, and some of the finest lead mines in the United States are in its vicinity. Among its churches is a Roman Catho lic cathedral of stone : there are various public buildings, and a number of stores the trade of the town is important and valuable. Population, 1300. Peru, Da venport, Bloomington, Fort Madison, Montrose, and Mount Pleasant, are the other principal towns. WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 91 WISCONSIN TERRITORY. THIS territory was erected into a separate government in 1836, and for two years afterwards included Iowa within its limits. It stretches from the Missis sippi river on the west to Lake Michigan -on the east, and from the n6rthern boun dary of the Union to the State of Illinois on the south. It is in length near 600 miles, and from 100 to 200 miles in breadth; containing probably an area of 100,000 square miles. A considerable portion of this territory is still inhabited by Indians. The principal rivers are the Mississippi and its tributaries, the St. Croix, Chip- peway, Wisconsin, Rock river, &c. ; the St. Louis, Montreal, and other streams, flowing into Lake Superior ; the Mennomonie and Fox rivers of Green Bay, and others. In some parts of the territory the soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of the various grains common to this section of the Union. In the vicinity of Lake Michigan the water-courses, ponds, and marshes, are covered with wild rice, which constitutes a considerable part of the food of the Indians. Wisconsin is rich in minerals : lead is found in great abundance, and also copper and iron. The lead region comprises a portion of the richest lead deposits in the world : it extends on the east side of the Mississippi from the Wisconsin to the Rock river, and on the west it connects with the lead region of Iowa. Lead mining is carried on extensively, as well as that of copper : about 6400 tons of lead were made here in 1840. The population, in 1840, was 30,945; of these 18,768 were white males; 11,992 do. females; 101 were coloured males; 84 do. females; employed in agriculture, 7047; in commerce, 479; in manufactures and trades, 1814; in mining, 479 ; in navigating lakes, rivers, canals, &c., 223 ; in the learned pro fessions, 259. There were in the territory, in 1840, 5735 horses and mules; 30,269 nea cattle; 3462 sheep; 51,383 swine; poultry was raised to the value of $16,167 There were produced 212,216 bushels of wheat; 1965 of rye; 379,359 of Indian corn; 10,654 of buckwheat; 11,062 of barley ; 406,514 of oats; 419,608 of potatoes; 6777 pounds of wool ; 135,288 of sugar. The products of the dairy were valued at $35,677 ; the amount of lumber produced was $202,293 ; of skins and furs $124,776. Home-made articles amounted to $12,567 ; and the capital employed in manu factures to $635,926 ; 40 smelting-houses produced 15,129,350 pounds of lead. No college has been established in Wisconsin ; but 23,040 acres of land have been granted for a university. The land has been advantageously located. There were, in 1840, two academies, with 65 students; and 77 common and primary schools, with 1937 scholars. Fort Winnebaoro, a United States' garrison, stands at the portage between the Wisconsin and Fox rivers ; the waters of the two streams here approach so close to each other, and are so nearly on a level, that boats, in wet seasons, have been floated from one to the other. A canal is in progress of construction for the pur pose of connecting these rivers. In the vicinity of Green Bay are the thriving villages of GreenBay, Navarino, and Depere. The former has a fine harbour and is a place of considerable business. The principal settlement* on the Mississippi, are Prairie du Chien, Cassville &c. ; the former is about five miles above the mouth of the Wisconsin river: i is situated on a beautiful prairie, and has been long inhabited, mostly by Frencl j traders and their descendants, half-breeds, &c. Cassville is some distance south 1 of the Wisconsin river; Belmont, Mineral Point, and Dou^geville are at various distances east of the Mississippi, and between it and Lake Michigan: they are situated- in a rich mining district. Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, is situated between the 3d and 4th lakes of the chain called the Four Lakes, and on a branch of the Rock river. It was laid out in 1837, and contained, in 1840, about 70 houses and 376 inhabitants The most important public building is the capital, a fine stone edifice built at the expense of the General Government: it may be seen from a distance of 10 miles UNITED STATES. D every direction. Milwaukie, on the west side of Lake Michigan, is the most important town in the territory ; it is a place of considerable trade, and has the best harbour on the west side of the lake between Chicago and Green Bay. Population, in 1842, 2800. The aborigines in Wisconsin are the Chippeways, Mennomonies, and Stock- bridge Indians : the latter, from New York, are settled in the vicinity of Green Bay. Among these tribes, the American Board of Foreign Missions has a num ber of missionaries in different parts of the territory. WESTERN OR INDIAN TERRITORY. THE Western or Indian Territory is the country assigned by the government of the United States for the future residence of the Indians who have emigrated from the eastern part of the Union. It is about 600 miles in extent from north to south in the eastern, and in the western part about 300 ; and from east to west, immediately beyond Arkansas, it is about 320 ; but, westward of the central and northern parts of Missouri, it is full 600 miles in breadth. It contains an area of about 240,000 square miles. A belt of about 200 miles of this region, adjoining Arkansas and Missouri, is favourable for settlement : the soil is generally fertile, and it is watered by nu merous rivers, none of which, however, are suitable for navigation. The chief streams are the Red, Arkansas, Kansas, Platte, and Mississippi rivers. The country, in its general character, is high and undulating, rather level than hilly. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate precisely such as is desired; being about the same as that inhabited by the Indians to the east of the Missis sippi. It contains coal, some lead and iron ore, and many saline springs, suitable for manufacturing salt. The most serious defect is a want of timber ; but it is one which time will remedy, as has been demonstrated by the rapid growth of timber in prairie countries which have been settled ; where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less destructive to the growth of wood : the prairies are covered with grass, much of which is of suitable length for the scythe. This country will produce, it is believed, all the varieties of grain, vegetables, and agricultural products, which are raised in the States of the same latitude east of the Mississippi. It is also admirably adapted for the raising of domestic animals of every description. At the close of the year 1844, the population of the Western Territory amounted to 94,527 Indians, three-fourths of whom have emigrated from the States east ol the Mississippi river. The remainder appertain to tribes long resident in this region. The numbers belonging to each class and tribe respectively are as follows : INDIGENOUS TRIBES. EMIGRANT TRIBES. Senecas arid Shawa- nees. 211 Weas 176 Peorias and Kaskas- kias 150 Senecas ]25 Piankeshaws 98 Total 72,265 Pawnees 12,500 Osages 4,112 Kansas 1,700 Omahas 1,400 Otoes and Missouries 950 Puncahs 800 Quapaws . . 400 ,Total 21,862 Cherokees 25.9] 1 Creeks 24,594 Choetaws 12,410 Florida or Seminole Ind. 4,111 Chippewas.Ottawas, and Pottawatomies . . . 2,098 Delawares 1,059 Shawanees 887 Kickapoos. 505 In addition to the above, there are 21,587 Indians, of various tribes, now eas of the Mississippi, under treaty stipulations to remove west of that stream : many of them are making preparations for that purpose ; and the whole, no doubt, will in a few years, be permanently settled in the territory assigned them. The Choetaws, Creeks, and Cherokees, are the most advanced towards civilization of any of the foregoing tribes. They have generally good houses, well-fenced and well-tilled fields, and own horses and cattle to a considerable extent they have also native mechanics and merchants. They carry on spinning and weaving, and have some saw and grist-mills and cotton-gins. They have adopted an improved system of government : the Choetaws and Creeks have a written constitution; and the former have introduced trial by jury. MISSOURI TERRITORY. 93 The country of the Choctaws, or Choctawland, the most southern in this Terri tory, is situated between the Red river on the south, and the Canadian river and the Arkansas north : it is 320 miles in length, and from 65 to 110 in breadth. It is divided into three districts, each of which has its chief. The Creek country is north of Choctawland, and west of the Neosho, a branch of the Arkansas : it is about two-thirds the area of Choctawland, and extends to the western boundary of the Territory. The government is administered by a general council of the nation, in accordance with the provisions of a written con stitution. The Cherokee country is north and east of the Creek : the eastern part extends to the river Arkansas, and also to the west boundary of the State of Arkansas; this tract is about the same in area as the Creek country. The Cherokees manufacture salt from the springs on the Illinois and other streams, and own a large number of horses and cattle. The Osages are indigenous natives* and a portion of them have as yet made but little improvement in the arts of civilization : some of them, however, parti cularly a band on the Neosho, have tolerable houses, own some cattle, and have begun to use the plough. Adjoining the south-west corner of Missouri, and extending to the Neosho, are the Quapaws, the united band of Senecas and Shawanees, and the band of Senecas and Mohawks. Farther north, on the head- waters of the Osage river, are the small bands of Piankeshaws, Weas, Kaskias, and Ottawas ; all of these have made some progress towards civilization. On the south bank of the Kansas river, and adjoining the State of Missouri, are the Shawanees : they are among the most improved of the Indian tribes. On the opposite side of the river are the Delawares, whose condition is similar to that of the Shawanees. The Kansas, an indigenous tribe, inhabit both sides of the Kansas river : they live principally by the chase. The Kickapoos reside on the Missouri, north of the Delaware country. The Otoes, between the Platte and the Little Nemahavv ; the Omahas, between the Platte and the Missouri, the Puncahs, further north-west, and the Pawnees, on the northern side of the Platte, further west, are indigenous tribes, who retain their original barbarous habits of life, with little or no change. MISSOURI TERRITORY, MISSOURI Territory extends from north to south about 520, and from east to west 600 miles, and contains an area of probably 300,000 square miles; it is bounded on the north by the British possessions, south by the Western or Indian Territory, east by Iowa, and west by Oregon. It is a vast wilderness, thinly inhabited only by different tribes of Indians, many of whom appear to have no fixed residence, but follow the migrations of the game from place to place. The greater part of this region has been but partially explored. It consists of vast prairies, fringed along the lower courses of the rivers with patches of wood land. A large portion of it may be likened to the great steppes of Central Asia. There is, however, in the most sterile parts a thin sward of grass and herbage : droves of buffalo, elk, and deer, range upon these vast prairies. They will, per haps, at some future period, be replaced by herds of domestic cattle, and flocks of sheep, followed by moving bands of shepherds. West of these plains, the Rocky Mountains rise up abruptly, presenting a steep front with frowning rocky precipices, and having their summits covered with perpetual snow. The only elevation in the great plain, which stretches from the Missouri river to the Rocky Mountains, is the Black Hills, a spur of the former range, extending to the north-east about 400 miles, and separating the east ern tributaries of the Yellow-Stone from those that run westward into the Missouri. The Missouri is the principal stream, which, with its tributaries, drains the whole of this region. The Yellow-Stone is the largest of its upper tributaries; it rises near the South Pass, and flowing generally a north-east course enters the Missouri, upwards of 3000 miles from the ocean. Those tributaries entering on 94 UNITED STATES. the west side of the Missouri, are the Cannonball, Weterhoo, Shienne, Running- Water river, and others. Our knowledge of this country is mostly derived from the accounts of Messrs. Lewis and Clark; in their journey to the Pacific Ocean, these enterprising tra vellers passed their first winter at the Mandan towns, 1600 miles above St. Louis, from November, 1804, until the following April. The Great Falls of the Missouri consist of a succession of cataracts, the whole descent of which is 350 feet. In one instance the entire body of the river falls in a perpendicular sheet to the depth of 87 feet. The place where the Missouri passes from the mountains, called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains, displays a stupendous work of nature. The river is compressed to the width of 450 feet, between perpendicular roeks 1200 feet in height; for three miles there is but one spot where a man can find footing between the water and the mountainous preci pices. About 100 miles below the great falls in the Missouri there are immense piles of rock, 300 feet in height, presenting the appearance of an artificial wall ; they are nearly perpendicular, and the beholder can discern amid the various forms which they exhibit, the shapes of ruined castles and other edifices. The principal tribes are the Pawnees and Ricarees, Black Feet, &c. ; most of whom are nomadic in their habits, and roam from place to place in quest of buffalo and other game. OREGON TERRITORY. THIS territory extends westward from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and from 42 to 54 40' N. latitude. On the north and on the east, as far south as the 49, it is bounded by British America, and southward of the 49 on the east by Missouri Territory ; south by Mexico, and west by the Pacific Ocean : it is in length about 880 miles, with an average breadth of 550 ; area about 450,000 square miles. Much of the surface of the country is broken and mountainous; on its eastern boundary it is traversed by the Rocky Mountains, many of the peaks of which are estimated at from 12,000 to 18,000 feet in height. Westward of these moun tains the country is divided into three belts or sections, separated from each other by ranges of mountains running very nearly parallel with the shores of the Pacific Ocean. The first range, which is about 250 miles westward of the Rocky Mountains, is the Blue Mountain range. The second, which is 200 miles farther west, and from 80 to 1 10 miles from the coast, is the Cascade or President Range ; its highest peaks are Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Mount St. Helen's, Mount Rainier, and Mount Baker; some of these are from 12,000 to 14,000 feet in height above the sea. The region lying between the Rocky and the Blue mountains is rocky, broken and barren; stupendous mountainous spurs traverse it in all directions, affording but little level ground, and in its most elevated parts snow lies nearly all the year. It rarely rains here, and no dew falls. The second or middle section con sists, for the most part, of a light sandy soil, in the valleys a rich alluvion, and barren on the hills. The third section, which lies along the coast, is well adapted for agriculture ; most parts of it are well timbered with fir, pine, spruce, oak, poplar, maple, &c. Near- the coast the firs grow to an amazing size, trees from 200 to 280 feet in height, and from 20- to 40 feet in circumference, are not uncom mon; and a tree 300 feet high, 216 feet from the ground to its lowest limbs, and 57 feet in circumference, grew some years since near Astoria. This section of the territory is also well adapted for the raising of cattle; they subsist in good condi tion on the green and dried grass, which is abundant throughout the year. The climate on the coast of the Pacific is believed to be milder than on the same parallels of latitude on the Atlantic. When Lewis and Clark left this country in March, the prairies were in blossom, and the forwardness of the sea son seems to have corresponded with that of North Carolina at the same period. The chief rivers of Oregon are the Columbia and its branches. This noble OREGON TERRITORY. 95 stream has its head waters near those of the Missouri, and collects its tribute for a wide extent along the western dividing ridges of the Rocky Monntains ; its principal tributaries are Lewis' or Saptin, Clark's or Flathead, Kootanie or Flat- bow, Okonagan, John Day's, Chutes or Falls, and Willamette rivers ; the valley of the last contains perhaps the best land in Oregon, and produces wheat of the first quality ; it has, for some time past, attracted the notice of emigrants. The Columbia is navigable from the falls where it breaks through the Cascade range of mountains to the ocean, for vessels drawing 12 feet water, at its lowest stage, though it is obstructed by numerous sand-bars. The river increases in width, in the last twenty miles of its course, and, where it enters the ocean, is seven miles. A sand-bar extends from Point Ac'ams to Cape Disappointment, which renders its entrance often dangerous. In the year 1841, the U. S. sloop of war Pea cock, belonging to the exploring expedition, was wrecked here. The salmon of the Columbia and its tributaries, of which there are several varieties, are very fine ; they constitute a large portion of the food of the natives. The only other river of any note is Frazer's, or Tacoutchee Tesse, which flows from the Rocky Mountains into the Gulf of Georgia. It has a course of about 700 miles. Its chief tributaries are Thompson's and Stuart's rivers ; on these streams the Hudson's Bay Company has several trading-houses or forts. South of the Columbia are the Umpqua and Klamet rivers, which flow into the Pacific Ocean ; the latter has a course of about 300 miles. Of the lakes in Oregon, those connected with the Columbia river, and its branches, are the Flathead, Kulluspelm, Flatbow, and Okonagan. The prin cipal of those which unite with Frazer's river are Stuart's, Quaw, St. Fran9ois, Quesnell's, Kamloops, and Soushwap. The principal islands are Vancouver's, and Washington, or Queen Charlotte's. The former is a large island, being near 300 miles in length, and from 40 to 75 miles wide; it is separated, on the south, by the Strait of Juan de Fuca; and, on the west, by the Gulf of Georgia. From the straits before-mentioned to the northern extremity of the territory, the coast is indented with innumerable bays and inlets, which form a multitude of small islands. Many parts of Oregon are well adapted for agricultural purposes. At some of the trading establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company, extensive farms are in successful operation. At Forts Vancouver, Colville, and Nisqually, wheat, barley, and potatoes of excellent quality are raised in abundance. The farm al Vancouver is 9 miles square: there are here 3000 head of cattle, 2500 sheep, and 300 brood mares ; 100 cows are milked daily. The coasts of Oregon Territory were first explored by the Spaniards, who, however, did not penetrate into the interior. In 1792, Captain Gray, of the ship Columbia, at Boston, entered the great river of this region; and, from him, it received the name of his ship. The celebrated navigator, Captain Vancouver, was then at Nootka Sound, and the discovery being very frankly and fortunately communicated to him, he sent one of his principal officers to examine the channel, and, in his narrative, admits the fact ; thus placing the right of prior discovery in the United States, beyond dispute, on British evidence. In 1805 Messrs. Lewis and Clark were sent out by the United States government, for the express pur pose of exploring this country. They navigated the Missouri to its source, and crossing the Rocky Mountains, descended the Columbia river to the Pacific, and spent the winter on its shores ; they returned by the same river to the moun tains, and most of the exact information that we have of the country is from them. To this- region, therefore, the United States have acquired an undoubted title by the discovery of the principal river, and by an interior exploration, as well as by the Louisiana treaty. It is, however, contested by Great Britain, who claims not that the title is in her, but that the region is unappropriated, and open to the first corner. By a convention concluded in 1818, to last 12 years, it was agreed between the United States and Great Britain, that neither government should take possession of it, or occupy it, to the exclusion of the other, during the pe riod of the convention, which either party might renounce upon giving twelve months' notice. I 1827 this convention was renewed indefinitely, or to cease at the option of the contracting parties. 20* 2E UNITED STATES. Several attempts were made, by different individuals from the United States, o settle in this territory. In 1808 the Missouri Fur Company established a rading-house on Lewis's river, the first ever formed on any of the waters of the Columbia. In 1810 the Pacific Fur Company, under John J. Astor, of New York, was formed; and in 1811 Astoria was established at the mouth of Columbia river. In consequence of the exposure of this post, by the last war with Great Britain, it was sold to the Hudson Bay Company ; but was restored to its origi nal proprietors, by order of the British government, at the close of the war, agree- ,bly to the first articles of the treaty of Ghent. Within the last few years, many migrants from the United States have taken up their residence in this region. Oregon city, a town of 200 or 300 inhabitants, chiefly Americans, is laid out at the Falls of Willamette; it contains already several stores and mills, and it .s proposed to construct a canal around the Falls. A government and legislature lave been organized by the settlers in the vicinity, and suitable measures adopted for a permanent settlement. The question of settling Oregon Territory, and organizing a government for the security of the inhabitants, has been more than once debated in congress. Were such settlement authorized, and rendered secure by the requisite military establishments, there can be no doubt that it would immediately receive large accessions of settlers; and in the Sessions of 1844, '45, a bill passed the House of Representatives for that purpose; but further action in the matter was deferred, until the twelve months' notice of an intention to take possession of the territory s given to Great Britain, according to the terms of the treaty. On the coast of this territory, north of Columbia river, are the countries, denomi nated by British navigators, New Georgia and New Hanover ; and immediately north of the northern head-waters of the Columbia, and west of the Rocky Moun tains, is New Caledonia; the climate of which is severe in winter, and hot in summer. The sdil is poor, but the fur-bearing animals are numerous. On Frazer's river are the Takali or Carriers, and the Atnahs or Soushwaps On the Columbia, and its tributaries, are the Kootanies, Flatheads, W 7 allawallas, Nezperces, Shoshones or Snakes, and Boonacks. Along the coast, and in its vicinity, are the Clalams, Chickelees, Nisquallis, Cowlitz, Chinnook, Calla- puya, Umpqua, Klamet, and Shaste Indians. The rest of the population con sists of American emigrants, perhaps 2500 or 3000 in number; Canadian and half-breeds 800 or 1000, besides the officers and servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. The Indians in the territory are estimated at from 20,000 to 40,000, in number. On Frazer's river, and its tributaries, are Forts Langley, Thompson, Alexan dria, and George; and there are others in different parts of the country. At Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia, there is a village of 300 or 400 inhabitants ; these comprise the labourers and servants attached to the fort, with their Indian wives and slaves. From this place a direct trade is carried on with the Sandwich Islands and Great Britain, which employs several vessels. A small steam-boat plies on the river and along the coast, between the different trading posts. The first emigration from the Atlantic States, for the purpose of occupying any part of Oregon Territory, was made in 1832; since that period, the number ol annual emigrants has considerably increased. The exploration of the South Pass, by Lieutenant Fremont, of the U. S. army, has rendered the business of crossing the mountains comparatively safe and easy. This pass is in 40 SO 7 north lati tude, at the head of the Sweet Water branch of Platte river ; it is of smooth and easy ascent and descent, and can be travelled in wagons without any difficulty. Emigrants from the United States generally unite for the sake of mutual safety against the Indians, in considerable parties, with horses and light wagons ; they proceed from Independence, or some other town in western Missouri, in a north western direction, to the Platte or Nebraska river, ascending that stream by its north branch and the Sweet Water river. They cross the mountains by the South Pass, to Lewis's river; thence they proceed to Fort Wallawalla; then down the banks of the Columbia to Willamette. The distance from Independence is be tween 1700 and 1800 miles, and may be accomplished, by moderate travelling, in about 18 or 20 weeks. TEXAS, 97 STATE OF TEXAS. THE late Republic of Texas formed, from the year 1836 until 1845, an inde pendent State; but it is now annexed to the United States. Previous to the first mentioned period, it comprised an integral portion of Mexico, and formed in con junction with Cohahuila, one of the States of that confederacy. It extends north and south from the Arkansas and Red rivers to the Gulf of Mexico ; and east and west from the Sabine to the Rio del Norte ; area of Texas as defined by an act of her Congress, 324,018 square miles, or about seven times the surface of Pennsylvania. Texas possesses a soil of great fertility, and a geographical position highly favourable to commercial intercourse with the United States, as well as with other parts of the world. The sea-coast is 400 miles in length, and affords by means of its numerous rivers, communication at a number of points with the Gulf of Mexico. The face of 'the country is generally level, and a great portion of it consists of immense- prairies, the soil of which is a deep black mould mixed with sand ; the bottom lands on many of the rivers are of a rich red texture of great depth, and well timbered with cotton-wood, walnut, cedar, &c. The country along the coast is low, but free from swamps and composed of good arable prairie, interspersed with well-wooded river bottoms, and fine pasture lands. Until the late emigrations from the United States, this section was filled with immense droves of mustangs, or wild horses and wild cattle ; but their numbers are now considerably lessened. In the south-west the country is elevated, being traversed by a range of mountains extending northward from the head waters of the Nueces, and westward of the sources of the Brazos, Colorado, &c. To the west and north are vast prairies, in which immense herds 'of buffalo supply the mounted Comanches with abundance of game. In the north-east, the country is more undulating and better wooded. The climate of Texas is mild and agreeable ; and, as the country is free from swamps, and as the wooded tracts are quite open and destitute of underwood, is more healthful than the corresponding sections of the United States. The seasons are two; the dry, from April to September; and the wet, which prevails during the rest of the year : the cold is pretty severe for a short time in December and January. The rivers are numerous,'but none are of much importance for navigation, being in the dry season extremely low, and during the floods a good deal impeded with floating timber. The Rio del Norte, which forms the western boundary of Texas, is the largest river; it has a course of from 1500 to 1800 miles; it is much im peded by rapids, and can be forded in nearly all parts of its course, except for a distance of about 200 miles from its mouth. T,he Sabine, Neches, and Trinity rivers are respectively 350, 300, and 410 miles in length; they are all navigable to a certain extent during a part of the year. The river Brazos is considered the best navigable stream in Texas; vessels drawing six feet water can ascend it to Brazoria ; and steamboats of light draught to San Felipe de Austin, 90 miles higher. The Rio Colorado rises in the high prairies east of the Puerco river; and, after a course of 500 miles, flows into Matagorda bay. About 12 miles above its mouth the navigation is obstructed by a raft of a mile in extent : beyond this light vessels may ascend it 200 miles* The La Baca, Guadaloupe, San' Antonio, and river Nueces, are more or less navigable part of the year; they are, however, but imperfectly known. The surface of Texas is in most parts covered with luxuriant native grasses affording excellent pasturage; it has also an ample supply of timber. Live oak is abundant, white, black, and post oak, ash, elm, hickory, musquite, walnut, sycamore hois d'arc, so called from the Indians using it to make their bows, cypress, &c., are among the common trees, and the mountainous parts in the south east abound with pine and cedar of fine quality. Among the natural curiosities of the country, is the "Cross Timbers," a continuous series of forests, varying in breadth from 5 to 10 miles, and extending in a direct line from the sources o 38 8 UNITED STATES. he Trinity, northward t^ the Arkansas river. It appears at a distance like an mmense wall of wood ; and from the west such is its linear regularity, that it ooks as if it were planted by art. It forms the great boundary of the western prairies. Texas is amply supplied with fruits and garden products. The climate of the owlands is too warm for the apple, but almost every other fruit of temperate climes comes to perfection. Peaches, melons, figs, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, dates, olives, &c., may be grown in different localities. Grapes are abundant, and very tolerable wine has been made from some kinds ; vanilla, indigo, sarsa- parilla, and a great variety of dyeing and medicinal shrubs and plants are indige nous, and on all the river bottoms is an undergrowth of cane, so thick as to be almost impervious. Along the water-courses also and near the sea, the larger trees are sometimes wreathed with Spanish rnoss, which serves both for fodder, and for the manufacture of cheap bedding, &c. The flora of Texas is particularly rich and copious. Cotton is the great agricultural staple of the state, and it is affirmed to be de cidedly superior as a cotton growing country, to the best districts in other parts of the Union. Some cotton growing lands yield, it is said, from 1 to 2 bales of clean cotton per acre. Its cultivation hitherto has been principally on the Brazos and Colorado, Red and Trinity rivers, and Caney creek; but it is steadily on the advance. Cotton planting begins in February, and picking in June. The grains chiefly cultivated are corn and wheat: the average crop of the former on good ground, is from 50 to 60 bushels per acre : two crops may be gathered in the year, the first being usually planted in February, and the second late in June. Wheat has been cut in May, and the same land has yielded a good crop of corn in October; rye, barley, oats, &c., are suited for the upper country, and rice near the river estuaries ; but small quantities only of these grains have hitherto been raised. The sugar-cane is also said to attain to greater perfection than on the Mississippi, and an average of 3000 pounds to the acre has in some cases been attained. Tobacco, the mulberry tree, and potatoes, both common and sweet, grow well. The raising of live stock is the principal and favourite occupation of the Texans, and man)' of the prairies are covered with a valuable breed of oxen, which thrive well with but little attention. Profitable trade in cattle is opened with New Orleans, and hides, horns, and tallow, are beginning to be exported to Europe. The rearing of horses and mules is also extensively pursued; sheep thrive on the upper lands, but require folding ; hogs are plentiful, and large quantities of pork are raised. Vast herds of buffaloes and wild horses wander over the prairies, and deer are every where abundant ; bears, cougars, panthers, peccaries, wolves, foxes, raccoons, &c., are common, and many of the planters keep packs of large and powerful dogs to prevent the destruction of their herds and flocks. Most of the birds known in the other parts of the United States are common to Texas; and the bays, &c., abound in fish of excellent quality, beds of fine oysters, and other testacea. Alligators are sometimes met with in the rivers, particularly Red river and its tributaries; turtles, &c., in the estuaries. There are several kinds of venomous serpents, and as in all other warm countries, musquitoes and other insect annoyances are common. The modes of husbandry in Texas are of the most simple description. The first object of the farmer after building a small and temporary log-cabin, is to enclose a sufficient space of the open level adjoining, by the erection of a rail- fence; he then proceeds to break up the land with a light plough, which is usually drawn by oxen. The Texan farmers generally content themselves with one ploughing previously to planting; manuring is seldom resorted to; the seed time for some cotton and most other crops is in February and March : a few hoeings to destroy weeds, to thin and earth up the young plants, is all that is required on the part of the husbandman to bring them to perfection. In many parts of the rolling prairie region, coal of a superior quality and iron ore have been found, and it has been supposed that beds of these valuable mine rals extend over a great part of the country. Silver mines were wrought towards Santa Fe in the north-west, till the works were destroyed by the Comanches. TEXAS. 99 Nitre abounds in the east, salt is obtained from numerous lakes and springs, and bitumen in several places ; granite, limestone, gypsum, slate, &c., are abundant, except in the low alluvial region. The principal towns in Texas are Galveston, Houston, San Augustin, San Felipe, Nacogdoches, &c. Galveston, on the island of the same name, is the chief commercial town : its trade with New Orleans, New York, and other east ern ports is already considerable, as well as with Great Britain. The population of Galveston is from 5000 to 7000; Houston is the next important town, and has 4500 inhabitants. San Augustine and San Antonio, or Bexar, have each a popu lation of 1500; San Felipe, or San Felipe de Austin, 1000; Nacogdoches 600; Washington, Bastrop and Matagorda, each 400 ; Columbia 350. The towns of La Grange, Brazoria, Cincinnati, Franklin, Liberty, Shelbyville and Jasper, range in amount from 250 to 150 individuals ; Santa Fe, with 6000 inhabitants, is the chief town in New Mexico: though within the bounds assumed by the Re public of Texas, the latter never acquired possession of that part of the country. This town has been, since 1825, the chief emporium of Northern Mexico, and in it the traders of that country meet those of the United States ; the former pur chasing the manufactures brought by the latter with peltry and bullion, so that a considerable amount of specie reaches the United States by this route. The annual value of the trade at Santa Fe has been estimated, in its most flourishing period, from 1834 to 1841, at from 2 million to 3 million dollars since the last named period ; the trade was suspended for a time by the Mexican authorities, but is now reviving. Most of the goods for their trade are procured in Philadel phia; they are then transported by railway and canal to Pittsburg, thence shipped to St. Louis, and thence to a point on the Missouri river, in the vicinity of Inde pendence : from the latter town they are taken in wagons 840 miles, to their place of destination. Part of the route is through a country so infested by hostile In dians, that the United States government have usually sent an escort of cavalry with the larger caravans, and in 1839, 200 troops were sent for the protection of one body of traders. Austin, a small town of 400 inhabitants, was some years since laid out as the capital : it is on the left bank of the Colorado river, 200 miles from the sea ; but the seat of government was for a time recently located at Washington, on the Brazos. Previous to 1821, the only places occupied by a white population were the Spanish posts of San Antonio de Bexar, Bahia, or Goliad, and Nacogdoches, comprising in all about 3000 inhabitants. Soon after that time, an attempt was made to establish here the independent republic of Fredonia; but the Mexican constitution attached the territory to the province of Cohahuila, forming one of the united provinces a State, bearing the names of both. In consequence of the encouragement held out. to settlers, there was a great influx of emigrants into the territory from the United States, many of whom carried with them their slaves. In 1832, the people of Texas formed for themselves a separate State constitution, and endeavoured to obtain from the Mexican Congress an admission into the con federacy as an independent State. This being refused, a state of things ensued which resulted in an appeal to arms. Texas was invaded by a Mexican army, headed by Santa Anna, the President, in person. At first the overwhelming numerical superiority of the invaders gave them some advantages, which enabled them to exhibit a remarkable ferocity towards their prisoners, several hundreds of whom were massacred in cold blood. But this was soon reversed ; and at the battle of San Jacinto the Mexicans were utterly routed, and their President was taken prisoner by the Texans. In March, 1836, the people of Texas declared themselves independent, afterwards formed a constitution and government, and elected a chief magistrate, together with all the requisite officials and appoint ments of a sovereign and independent power. Texas is divided into three great departments, viz. Nacogdoches in the north, Brazos in the centre, and Bexar in the south. Each department comprises a number of counties. The State is far ther subdivided into seven judicial districts, in each of which is a judge. The judges are appointed by Congress, and hold office for four years. The salary of the chief justice is 5000 dollars, and of the district judges 3000 dollars each. The Supreme Court sits at Austin on the second Monday in each year, The Common LOO UNITED STATES. Law of England was adopted, and with the Acts of Congress forms the law of the land. Texas was an integral, and not like the United States, a federal republic. The President was elected for three years, and was not again eligible for a similar term. In other respects the constitution generally resembled that of the United States. The republic was recognized by the United States, France, England, and some other nations ; but not by Mexico. The population amounts to about 300,000, nearly all of which consists of Americans from the United States. The slaves amounted, in 1843, to 22,412. The military force was composed chiefly of volunteer troops and militia ; the navy consisted of a sloop of war, two brigs, and an armed steamer, several schooners, &c. The value of the imports of Texas for the year ending July 31st, 1844, fvas $686,503 03. Exports for the same period, $615,11934; Net duties, $177,86185. Direct taxes levied in 1844, $50,79052; the public debt is reported (but not officially) at $8,169,000. The number of votes given at the election for President in 1844 was 12,752. The annexation of Texas to the United States, has been for some time a popular measure in both countries; it has been strongly advocated by many of the most eminent men in the Union, as a desirable addition to our territory, and as affording the means of extending our laws and institutions over a part of the continent that would, under its former apathetic possessors, have long remained a comparative wilderness, with few inhabitants except Indians. During the session of 1844, '45, a bill passed both Houses of Congress of the United States,' providing for mmediate annexation. The government of Texas was somewhat tardy on the subject ; but the inhabitants evinced such strong feelings in its favour, that the constituted authorities were at length obliged to perfect the measure. On the 18th of June, 1845, the Texan congress were then in session at Washington, on the Brazos river, when both houses unanimously consented to the terms of the joint resolution of the United States, providing for the admission of Texas as one of he States of the American Union. A convention of delegates of the people of Texas met July 6th, 1845, and ratified the act finally ceding the Republic to the United States. In the United States Congress, assembled at Washington city, December, 1845, a constitution for the government of Texas was submitted, and adopted by a vote of 141 to 56 in the House of Representatives, and 31 to 15 in the Senate. By the same resolution it was decided, that Texas should be entitled to two members of the House of Representatives until the next census of the United States. Of course, Texas has two Senators also in the national councils. President Polk, in his annual message, thus alludes to the subject of annexation. "The jurisdiction of the United States has been peacefully extended to the Del Norte, and this in despite of the diplomatic interference of European monarchies." " We may rejoice," says he further, " that the tranquil and pervading influence of the American principle of self-government, was sufficient to defeat the pur poses of British and French interference, and that the almost unanimous voice of the people of Texas, has given to that interference a peaceful and effectual rebuke. From this example, European governments may learn how vain diplomatic arts and intrigues must ever prove upon this continent, against that system of self- government which seems natural to our soil, and which will ever resist foreign interference." CALIFORNIA. CALIFORNIA is one of the chief divisions of the Mexican Republic, and forms the most north-westerly portion of its territory : it is an extensive region, and stretches along the shores of the Pacific Ocean, from latitude 22 31', to 42 north, a distance of 1420 miles. It is divided into two provinces, Upper or New, and Lower or Old California : the former is the most northerly. CALIFORNIA. 101 OLD OR LOWER CALIFORNIA. This district is a narrow peninsula, parallel with the continent : it is bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean, and on the east by the Gulf of California, or Vermillion sea. In length it is about 720 miles, with an average breadth of 50 miles, area 30,000 square miles. It enjoys the most beautiful sky in the world ; but the soil is sandy and arid, and only a few favoured spots present a trace of vegetation. There are about 7000 Spaniards and con verted Indians, and 4000 savages ; and it is not supposed that the population can ever be much greater. The missions have been mostly broken up since the revo lution. Loreto, once a place of some note, now contains about 250 inhabitants. This part of America has been long noted for its pearl fisheries ; it is still carried on along the coast, but is less important than it was formerly. Sixteen or eighteen small vessels are all that are now employed, each of which, in favour able seasons, obtains pearls to the value of from 500 to 1000 dollars. Pearls, tortoise shells, a few bullocks' hides, dried beef, dried fruits, cheese, soap, &c., constitute all the exports of Lower California, which are sent chiefly to San Bias and Matzalan, in small coasting vessels. The imports are provisions, clothing, agricultural and domestic utensils, supplies for the ceremonies of the church, and a small amount of the ordinary luxuries of life. This country was discovered by Hernando de Grijalvo, in 1534, but no settle ment was made by the Spaniards, until the end of the succeeding century, when a few Jesuits established themselves here with a view of converting the natives. They founded Loreto and other small settlements as missionary stations, instructed the Indians in agriculture, and persuaded many of them to adopt settled habita tions ; but this civilization has taken no real root, and the Aborigines appear to be rapidly diminishing: about one-half the natives of Lower California have been nominally converted to Christianity. UPPER CALIFORNIA. This part of Mexico was declared independent in 1845. It has of late attracted much attention in the United States ; a number of Ame rican citizens are already settled in it, and many others are preparing to emigrate thither. It extends from the Pacific Ocean to the Anahuac mountains, and from the 42 of N. lat. to the head of the Gulf of California. On the north it is bounded by Oregon, on the south by Old California and the province of Sonora. Its extent from north to south is about 700, and from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, with an area of about 420,000 square miles. The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red river, so called from the colour of its waters; it has a course of about 1000 miles. The region through which it flbws is almost unknown, being still in possession of the native tribes, and has been but little explored. Green and Grand rivers, its largest upper tributaries, both rise within the United States, the first at the foot of Fremont's, and the other at the western base of Long's Peak. Its lower and largest branch, the Gila, is a considerable river. The country both north and south of it, for some distance, is inhabited by numerous Indian tribes, of which but little is known except their names. The Sacramento and San Joaquin, which flow into San Francisco bay, have respectively about 400 and 300 miles of course. They water the fine valley which lies between the Sierra Nevada and Coast Range Mountains. Their banks are nearly uninhabited, except by some Indians, and a few American families on the Sacramento, who have recently removed thither. The Tule or Bulrush lakes join the head waters of the San Joaquin ; and Mountain lake, dis covered by Captain Fremont, joins the Rio de los Americanos, a branch of the Sacramento. The Buenaventura river flows into the sea at Monterey. The other streams along the Pacific are small; they are sometimes dried up, and a want of water is occasionally felt in various quarters below the coast range. Bear river runs into the great Salt Lake ; Sevier river, a recent discovery, rises on the west side of the Wahsatch mountains, and flows most probably into the Colorado. Of the lakes of Upper California, the great Salt Lake, near its north-eastern extremitv ,s the largest. It is probably not less than 280 miles in circuit, and has no Known outlet ; its waters are salter than those of the ocean. The Utah, a smaller and fresh-water lake, flows into the former from the south : its name is derived from the adjacent Utah Indians. These two lakes are doubtless the Tim- panogos and Buenaventura lakes of the old Spanish maps, but they are now for 102 CALIFORNIA. the first time correctly portrayed by Captain Fremont, on the map of his late ex ploration. Mountain, Pyramid, and Mud lakes, are recent discoveries by Captain Fremont, and are all imbedded amongst the ridges of the Sierra Nevada. From the surface of Pyramid lake, a remarkable rock, nearly as regular in form as the famed pyramids of Egypt, rises to the height of 600 feet; it is visible many miles distant, and from it the lake received its name. The Tule lakes, already men tioned, are so called from the quantities of bulrushes which grow on their banks. They are two in number : the lower lake, much the largest, is supposed to be about 80 miles long, and from 12 to 15 broad. These lakes are formed by the mountain streams of the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range ; when their waters are abundant they flow into the San Joaquin, but at other times there is no connection. . The chief mountains of Upper California on the eastern frontier are the Sierra Anahuac, the Sierra los Mimbres, and the Sierra Madre. These all form a con tinuous chain, and are a part of the great Rocky Mountain range. They separate the waters of the Colorado, from those of the Rio Grande del Norte. The Bear river and Wahsatch mountains were recently explored by Captain Fremont; they are both of considerable elevation, and form the eastern rim of the Great Interior Basin. The Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range run nearly in the direc tion of the coast; the first at a distance from the Pacific, varying from 100 to 200 miles, and the other at from 40 to 60 miles. The va41ey interposed between them is the finest part of California; it is not less than 500 miles in length, and from 60 to 140 wide. The Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range of California, is reported by Captain Fremont to be of greater height than the Rocky Mountains, and to be all the time covered with snow. The pass by which that intrepid officer crossed the Sierra was 9,338 feet above the sea, and the mountains on either hand rose several thousand feet higher. The Coast Range is of less elevation than the Sierra Nevada ; some of its peaks are, however, covered with snow. San Ber- nardin and Mount Shaste are the highest. Nearly the whole of the central part of this region, extending from 400 to 500 miles from north to south, and about the same from east to west, is unexplored. It is called the " Great Interior Basin of California," and is enclosed on the west by the Sierra Nevada, and on the east by the Bear river and the Wahsatch moun tains. It is generally represented as a sandy desert, but it is known to contain in some quarters various rivers and lakes, none of whose waters reach the ocean. The mountains by which the whole is surrounded prevent their egress, and the surplus is no doubt absorbed by evaporation, or lost in the sands of the more arid districts. The population consists of a few wandering savages, who live chiefly on insects and seeds, and on the roots which they dig out of the earth ; hence their name of " Diggers." The rabbit is the largest animal known here ; it sup plies a little flesh, and its skin furnishes the scanty raiment of the almost naked inhabitants. The wild sage is the only wood ; it grows of large size, being often a foot in diameter and from six to eight feet high. It serves for fuel, for building material, for shelter to the rabbits, and for some sort of covering for the feet and legs in cold weather. The Pah-Utah Indians, whom Captain Fremont encountered on the southern edge of the Great Basin, are a race of nearly naked savages, armed with long bows and arrows ; the latter are barbed with a kind of stone almost as hard as the diamond, and, when discharged from their powerful bows, are almost as effective as a gunshot. They followed his party stealthily like a band of wolves, and at length killed one of his best men and stole several of his animals. In their depredations on the coast settlements, and on travellers, all the horses, mules, &c., that they capture, are immediately driven off to their retreats in the moun tains, and slaughtered for food. The Utah Indians, who reside in the vicinity of the Great Salt la l 'e, and along the head waters of the Colorado, are less savage in their habits, having had some intercourse with the traders, and with the people of New Mexico. Many of them are well mounted, and have good rifles ; they also commit depredations at times on the whites, and especially on the annual caravan that passes along the great Spanish trace from California to Santa Fe. CALIFORNIA. 103 Wild animals are in some parts of upper California very numerous. Captain Fremont encountered, in his late journey through the valley of the San Joaquin, large droves of elk and wild horses, also wolves and antelopes. The grizzly bear is met with in the Rocky Mountains and in the Sierra Nevada. The buffalo, panther or American tiger, deer, and several other species of animals are common. Otters and beavers abound in many of the streams. The latter, having been much sought after for their skins, are less numerous than formerly. The rabbit is re ported as the only animal to be found in the Great Basin. The wealth of California consists of live stock. The chief articles of export are hides and tallow : about 150,000 of the former, and 200,000 arrobas of the latter are exported annually. About 2000 beaver, 3000 elk and deer, and 400 or 500 sea-otter skins, the latter worth 30 dollars a-piece, are also exported ; besides which, about 12,000 bushels of wheat are shipped annually to the Russian set tlements on the Northwest Coast. The wheat is of excellent quality; and, except in years when drought prevails, the product is very abundant. Indian corn yields well, also potatoes, beans, peas, &c. The soil is well adapted for grapes ; from 3000 to 4000 gallons of wine are made, and about the same amount of brandy ; this, however, is quite insufficient for the supply of the country, and large amounts of foreign wines and liquors are imported. Besides cattle, sheep, horses, mules, goats, and swine abound. The mutton is of fine flavour, but the wool is inferior, as no attention is paid to that kind of stock. At the missions, coarse blankets and wearing apparel for the Indians are manu factured, besides a small amount of soap and leather. There are in the country only two or three water-mills for grinding wheat, which are owned by Americans. The number of aborigines is estimated at 15,000. One-half of these are con verted Indians, the remainder reside mostly on the Sacramento river. The whites are estimated at about 5000, with 2000 more of mixed blood; making the whole population of Upper California about 22,000 souls. The health and robustness of the white inhabitants seem remarkable, and must be attributed to the fine cli mate, as well as to their simple diet : this consists of beef roasted upon the coals, a few vegetables, and the tortilla, which is a thin cake made of corn meal, and baked upon a sheet of iron. Throughout the country, both with the rich and poor, this is the general fare; a few luxuries have been lately introduced. The chil dren are, for the most part, left to the care of themselves, and run about naked and dirty. They are generally robust, and their relative number seems to be great ; thus, it is by no means uncommon to see families of fourteen or fifteen children. A large number die from accidental falls from horses, with which, from their earliest childhood, they are accustomed to be engaged. They early become expert and fearless riders, and this skill is not confined altogether to the male sex; the women are almost equally expert. Families with numerous members are sel dom met with, who have not had to mourn the loss of several of their number from casualties of this sort. Although the Californians are comparatively few in number, yet they have a distinctive character. Descended from the old Spaniards, they are unfortunately found to have all their vices, without a proper share of their virtues ; they are exceedingly fond of gambling, which is equally in favour with the male and female portion of the community. Their games consist in cards, dice, &c. Their amusements are cock-fighting, bull and bear-baiting, and dancing; these are the predominant occupations of their lives, always accompanied with . exces sive drinking. The female portion of the community are ignorant, degraded, and the slaves of their husbands. They are very fond of dress, and will make any sacrifice to gratify it. The men have no trades, and depend for every thing upon the con verted Indians, some of whom are quite ingenious, both as carpenters and black smiths. The whites are so indolent, and withal have so much pride, as to make them look upon all manual labour as degrading. In truth, they regard all those who work as beneath them ; they, in consequence, can never be induced to labour. The Indians of Upper California are indolent and pusillanimous, and destitute of the boldness and energy displayed by many of the aborigines in other quar- 21 2F 104 CALIFORNIA. ters. Excepting those that have been converted at the missions, the women go nearly, and the men entirely naked ; and they are all extremely filthy in their habits. The missions were establishments formed by the Catholic missionaries for the conversion and civilization of the Indians : some were converted by persuasive means, and others by force. The men were employed in tilling the ground, or in the warehouses and laboratories of the mission ; the women were engaged in spinning, grinding corn, and other domestic labours. All were fed and clothed by the friars, to whom they were in fact slaves, and were not allowed to leave the missions. In 1831 their number was about 18,000. The missions consist of a cluster of small houses, usually built in a square, with a territory of about 15 square miles each, free from government taxes, and each subordinate to a Fran ciscan friar, termed a prefect. The towns of this country are all small. Monterey, the capital, has only 300 inhabitants ; San Diego, and Pueblo de los Angeles, the two largest towns, have each a population of from 800 to 1000 ; Santa Barbara and San Francisco are the next important. The latter is on the bay of the same name, and has the finest harbour on the coast; it affords perfect security to ships of any burthen, with plentiful supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, and water. It is much visited by American whalers and other vessels. The river which flows into this bay waters the finest portion of Upper California, and it is to this quarter that the attention of American emigrants is directed. Nueva Helvetia is the nucleus of a new American settlement formed in 1838-39 by Captain Sutler, a citizen of Missouri, who obtained a grant of land from the Mexican government. It is about 50 miles above San Francisco bay, near the junction of the Sacramento with the Rio de los Americanos, and consists chiefly of a fort built of adobes or sun-dried bricks, mounting 12 pieces of cannon ; in the interior are the dwellings and work-shops. About 30 white men and 40 In dians are employed by Captain Sutler, and are mostly engaged in agriculture. Large quantities of excellent wheat are raised, much of which is shipped to the North West seltlements, in vessels belonging to the proprietor. Nueva Helvetia is at a considerable distance from any other settlement, and much energy and industry have been manifested in its establishment. Several American families reside in the vicinity. This country was in part discovered by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator, in 1542; and its northern part, called New Albion, by Sir Francis Drake, in 1578. In 1768 it was first colonized by the Spaniards, and, until after the revolution in Mexico, formed a province of that country. In November, 1836, the people of Monterey and its vicinity rose, attacked and subdued the garrison, expelled the Mexican functionaries and troops, declared California independent, and established a congress of deputies for its future government. It returned afterwards to Mexi can authority ; but in 1845 the people again proclaimed their independence. In October, 1842, Monterey was captured by an American squadron under the com mand of Commodore Jones, under the belief that war existed between Mexico and the United States. After being held two or three days, the town was restored to the Mexicans.