4f "i A Publication of The College of Agriculture f x . I % . . ) UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA "««\W CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL Experiment Station Extension Service MANUAL 5 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of California, Davis Libraries http://archive.org/details/camelliaculturef05butt FOR THE HOME GARDENER H. M. BUTTERFIELD LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DAVIS UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, DAVIS THIS MANUAL is one of a series published by the University of California College of Agri- culture and sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the production cost. By this means it is possible to make available publications which, due to relatively high cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of the College publishing program. CONTENTS BEGIN WITH MATURED PLANTS IF POSSIBLE 1 CAMELLIAS HAVE SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS 1 Climate 1 Soil 2 Planting 2 CULTURAL PRACTICES ARE IMPORTANT 4 Irrigating 4 Mulching 5 Tilling 5 Fertilizing 5 Pruning 7 Disbudding 7 Cutting flowers 7 PROPAGATE PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS, GRAFTS, OR SEEDS .... 8 Rooting cuttings 8 Grafting 9 Seeding 12 CONTROL PESTS, DISEASES, BUD DROP, AND FLOWER DECLINE . 13 Pests 13 Diseases 13 Bud drop 14 Flower decline 15 CAMELLIAS ARE CLASSIFIED ACCORDING TO FLOWER FORM . . 15 VARIETAL TABLES 18 CAMELLIA ORGANIZATIONS SERVE GROWERS 24 REFERENCES 24 This manual replaces the former Extension Circular 164 8°^ The petals of Camellia reticulata (Captain Rawes type) are rose pink, wavy edged, with diameter of 5 to 7 inches. FOR THE HOME GARDENER H. M. BUTTERFIELD BEGIN WITH MATURED PLANTS IF POSSIBLE Most camellia growers begin with well- developed plants. Older plants tend to re- sist unfavorable garden conditions better than young plants, and to produce more flowers. Cost, however, may be a limiting factor. If a gardener has the time, camellias can be grown from cuttings, grafts, or seeds. These slow processes are not always dependable, but if successful they are less costly than purchasing older plants. Each method of propagation is described under the section on propaga- tion, appearing on pages 8 to 12. What is a healthy plant? Avoid buying a plant that is stunted, or that has roots badly matted in the pot or container. That kind of plant will seldom be healthy. A balled plant normally is more promis- ing than one already transferred to a con- tainer. A healthy camellia plant definitely indicates it by: 1) shiny, leathery, dark- green leaves; 2) absence of dead wood; and 3) compact form true to its variety. When buying the plant, ask the nurs- eryman to tip it out of the container so that the roots can be examined. If they are badly matted, do not buy it. CAMELLIAS HAVE SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS Climate While camellias are grown satisfac- torily in nearly all parts of California, the best blooms are produced where the summers are warm and the winters chilly. For instance, growers in the interior val- leys seem to produce the highest percent- age of prize blooms. This would indicate that climatic conditions are more favor- able than along the cooler coastal regions. Heat. In the valley regions, it is usually necessary to provide camellias with some kind of overhead shelter against extreme summer sun, especially during the middle of the day. When fur- nishing overhead protection, remember that camellias do need considerable heat during the summer season; therefore, construct the overhead to protect yet not to deny the plant the heat it actually needs. Latticework seems to provide the best type of shelter. Overhead protection is less important in the cooler coastal regions than in the warm inland valleys. Near the coast, north or east exposure usually provides sufficient shade. Wind. The plant site chosen should provide shelter against prevailing winds, or a permanent windbreak should be THE AUTHOR: H. M. Butterfield is Agriculturist in Agricultural Extension, Berkeley. [i] built. Wind can injure tender new leaves, and cause rapid deterioration of blooms. Wind may also be partly responsible for the corky cell growth on the underside of the leaves. Any kind of injurious gas or chemical released in the air about the plant will produce the same effect as wind. Wet weather. Heavy dew or rain may discolor the open blossoms. About the only protection against wet weather is some kind of temporary roof. A tar- paulin can be laid upon the overhead latticework; and cellophane can be used to cover specimen blooms. Potted or tubbed plants can be placed in a sheltered porch. Dew and rain are not a serious problem with camellias. Soil Camellias grow well in a variety of soils, ranging from slightly acid to slightly alkaline. An acid soil is not es- sential for good growth. A fertile organic loam soil is best. Soil reaction. This is measured in terms of pH value, which refers to the acid-ion concentration. Neutral soil (nei- ther acid nor alkaline) tests pH 7. In California, soils often test pH 7.5 or higher, which is decidedly alkaline; and some tap water tests pH 8 or higher. Soil reaction between pH 5.5 and pH 6 is thought by some growers as about right for good results with camellias. Use of acidifiers. It takes only a small amount of acidifier to change the reaction of any soil. From % to % pound of aluminum sulfate, for instance, is suffi- cient in many instances to acidify one square yard of soil about a plant. With soils varying so greatly in pH value, and with other growth factors usually far more important, it is impos- sible to specify the exact interval between applications of acidifiers. One grower applied aluminum sulfate about once in every 4 to 6 weeks but that is more often than is necessary in most instances. Acidifiers may not be necessary if acid fertilizers are used regularly and if the soil is almost neutral to start with. The use of acid peat moss or acid leaf mold will usually be adequate to insure proper soil acidity around camellia plants. Acid- type fertilizers further aid in maintaining soil reaction between pH 5.5 and pH 6. Soil testing. Outfits for soil testing may be used to determine the acidity of the soil when plants show adverse symp- toms. For instance, camellia leaves that begin to yellow may indicate too alkaline a soil, especially if the plants are exposed to hot sunlight. This condition would call for a soil acidifier. Water. Kind of water used also may have some bearing on soil reaction. Water high in lime may need acid added before it is applied to camellias. Here again, only a small amount of acidifier is needed. For example, tap water testing pH 9.2 required only one drop of sulfuric acid to 15 gallons of water to bring the re- action down to pH 6. Planting Techniques. Camellias should be transplanted shortly before their new growth pushes out in late winter or early spring. This advice applies to pot, tub, or open-garden transplanting. Digging plants that are in active growth is not desirable. Transplanting much later than the time new growth starts may seriously retard the plant. Dig a hole large enough and deep enough for the roots to be spread out in natural position. Several inches of good drainage materials should be spread at the bottom of the hole to prevent the col- lection of water around the plant roots. Drainage material can be gravel, small rocks, coarse sand, or pieces of broken flower pot. Set the plant so that, after the soil has settled, it will stand at about the same depth that it stood in the original container before transplanting. Avoid planting too deep — a practice that may invite brachyrhinus grubs (see page 13, in the section on control of pests, diseases, bud drop, and flower decline). [2] The can containing the camellia plant is cut down on opposite sides for easy removal of the plant. Set the earthen form into a hole that is deep enough for the soil to be filled in to the original level. Level the soil around the planted form and place a stake snugly against the plant for later support. Dig a shallow basin around the plant for irrigation. •SlfeteA :: ' Planting media. Many kinds of pot- ting mixtures have proved successful. The John Innes Potting Mixture, 7 parts fer- tile loam soil, 3 parts acid peat moss, and 2 parts coarse sand, should be excellent for all potted or tubbed plants. Plant containers. Camellias, if prop- erly watered and fertilized, may be grown in pots and tubs for several years. If it is necessary to hold larger plants in tubs, repot them often enough to avoid crowded or matted roots. Young plants grow very well in green- house or frame, with a minimum night temperature of 65° F and a day tempera- ture of 75°. CULTURAL PRACTICES ARE IMPORTANT Irrigating Camellia plants need water from start of the dry season in April to start of the rainy season, sometimes as late as No- vember. The plants may make two or even three flushes of growth during this season. The greater the leaf surface exposed to dry air, the more water the plant will use. The symmetrical shape of this strong young plant of Kumasaka is the result of careful pruning. This variety is very popular. Amount of water. A good rule of thumb in irrigation is to see that the water penetrates to the full depth of the root system. This may be difficult be- cause soil conditions differ and sizes of plants differ. One method of determining the amount of water needed is to set a cup or pan on the ground to catch some of the water from a sprinkler. Measure the time it takes to catch 1 inch of water. This amount represents the time it takes to deliver 1 inch of water to the entire soil surface covered by the sprinkler. One inch of water applied to the sur- face of sandy soil should wet down about 12 inches. The same inch of water applied to an intermediate loam will wet down only 6 to 10 inches, and applied to a fine- grained clay soil, down to only 4 or 5 inches. Thus, if the camellia plant is in sandy soil, and the roots extend downward 24 inches, 2 inches of surface water are needed to penetrate down and cover the entire root system. The same plant, in intermediate loam soil, would require about 4 inches of water on the surface; in clay soil, about 5 inches. Type of irrigation. Water may be applied in shallow basins around each plant or the sprinkler may be left on to soak down to the desired depth. A hose is used to water plants in containers. Frequency of irrigation. This also is determined by soil texture. Heavy clay soil absorbs more water than sandy soil, and the greater the water-holding capac- ity of the soil, the less frequently it needs to be irrigated. [4] Thus, a camellia plant in sandy soil which does not hold water might need irrigating every 4 to 10 days; the same plant in intermediate loam would need irrigating only once every 8 to 15 days; in fine-grained clay, every 15 to 30 days. Insufficient watering will usually dull the normally shiny green coloring in the leaves. The roots cannot take up adequate amounts of nourishment unless soil mois- ture is above the permanent wilting point. Mulching A surface mulch of well-rotted leaf mold, or of acid peat moss, will hold con- siderable moisture and help to cool the surface roots. It may also discourage weed growth. The addition of a 2 inch surface mulch once or twice a year is advisable. Tilling Camellias do not need tilling. They are shallow-rooted, and heavy tillage will harm the surface roots. Weeds may be hoed out as they appear, or pulled out, or killed with a weed spray, if the leaves are protected against spray injury. Fertilizing When young camellia plants, with their shallow root systems, are set out in a fer- tile soil they need little or no fertilizer. After they are established and have used up most of the available soil nutrients, they will respond to small applications of fertilizer given every 4 to 6 weeks. This practice has proved more effective and probably more economical than large ap- plications of fertilizer given only once or twice a year. When to use fertilizer. Begin to apply fertilizer at the end of the rainy season, when new plant growth starts. Usually this is during March or April. At that time the plants are in greatest need of nitrogen. Organic fertilizers, such as cottonseed meal, fish meal, blood meal, and manufac- tured sludge provide adequate amounts of nitrogen for young or small plants. Older or larger plants may need extra commercial fertilizer during the growing season. Dr. W. E. Lammerts, plant breeder of Descanso Gardens, La Canada, California, states that the weekly feeding of a nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of % ounce to a gallon of water has produced rapid growth on grafted plants. Amount of fertilizer. This is best determined by watching the plant itself. In other words, if a plant is thriving, that alone is the best indication of suf- ficient nutrients. Rate of Applying Some Fertilizers No. of ounces* Fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. of soil Sulfate of ammonia 18 Ammonium nitrate 12 Uramon 9 Treble superphosphate 6 Superphosphate 14 1 7-7-0 23 16—20 ammonium phosphate-sulfate 24 Complete mixed fertilizers (acid type) 10 per cent nitrogen 36 8 per cent nitrogen 50 6 per cent nitrogen 64 Divide by number of applications per year for amount to apply at one time. [5] Deciding exact amounts of fertilizer to apply is difficult because of differences y~ in plant size, root systems, and soil fer- 3ff f"\ tility. The table shown here may serve as jjffi JF a basis for deciding how much fertilizer of a given type should be tried. For very • '^W AJ fertile soil or for small-sized plants, de- ^ JP Jw"*^ /ttVS*" crease the amounts shown: for less fertile ^ "m ^rniT^?\/ ^^^ ** ,^t^ soil or for larger plants, increase the ^'X* fjfc 4^* amounts. To meet local needs, the fer- P^\^Wfli t tilizers listed may be used separately or in combination. wrSHP^i % 4*. Wood) or shrubby plants, such as the -aPr W camellia, should not require the addition ■ "\^ of much more phosphate fertilizer than is already available in many California soils. If a phosphate fertilizer is needed, include treblephosphate at the rate of about y± ounce at each of four applica- tions during the year. One well-known acid-type mixture con- tains the following: per cent Acid phosphate 35 Cottonseed meal 28 ^ Potassium sulfate 17 \"*S Ammonium sulfate 10 Aluminum sulfate (used as acidifier) 10 When making up an acid-type mixture, f% jp A^ such as the one given here, remember that *J| "* most California soils furnish an adequate amount of potash to camellias. Therefore, j! including potassium sulfate may be an unnecessary expense. SvJmfni - ' \ Fertilizing \tliini! short of actual tests under local conditions u ill indicate what t\ pe <>l _ fertilizing program is needed. Even labo- ratory tests are of little or no value be- a young plant of Romany, or Belgian Red, be- cause other and more important factors, fore and after it was pruned. [6] such as water, soil fertility, and tempera- ture, closely affect plant growth. Pruning Camellias require very little pruning — removing unwanted branches, shorten- ing-in of long branches to shape the plant, and some pinching-back of new growth to encourage branching. When to prune. Pruning is done toward the end of the dormant season — about March or April. Where to prune. All cuts are made just above a bud or a lateral. Never cut back into old wood where there are no leaves. Cutting at that point will greatly retard or even prevent further growth. Encourage the natural growing habits of the variety. Varieties are spreading or upright, are naturally compact and bushy, or are tipped-back occasionally to remain symmetrical. Some varieties make very slow growth ; others, rapid. Chandleri Elegans, for example, is a spreading variety whose main stem is allowed to continue upright growth until it has reached the desired height. Spread- ing side branches may be pruned back slightly. A vigorous variety, such as Romany, may make as many as three flushes of growth during the season, with each growth from 4 to 8 inches long. Certain branches may be removed entirely; others may be shortened-in a little. The main, upright stem may need to be supported by a stake. On most of the vigorous varieties, pruning should be completed before April 15. When pinching-back to keep the bush compact, leave one or more buds of the new growth to continue over-all growth "of the plant. Some varieties form flower buds on the first flush of growth. Prune this new growth only to shape the plant. Disbudding The size of blooms on some varieties is improved by disbudding. This practice does not help much, if any, in preventing bud drop if growing conditions are not favorable (see page 14). When a plant forms more buds than can develop satisfactorily, remove the ex- cess buds. This is done as soon as buds have finally set, when it is possible to determine the most promising buds to leave. The larger, perfect buds should be left. Cutting Flowers Strictly speaking, for the best interests of the camellia plant, do not cut any of the blooms. For instance, the buds pro- ducing the new shoots that enhance the value of the plant are just behind the blooms in the leaf axils; it is difficult to remove the flowers without injuring or removing these new buds. If flowers must be cut, remove as little as possible of the stem. This is done best by cutting the flower where it joins the stem. The blossom can then be set in a shallow cup or flat bowl, where it will keep fairly well. Never break off the flower. If longer-stemmed flowers are needed for a certain arrangement, cut just above a leaf bud, or back to a healthy lateral. Remove no more leaves than are abso- lutely necessary. This picture shows how near the round, blunt flower bud is to the slender, narrow leaf bud. [7] Occasionally a leaf is attached so close to the base of a flower that it has to be removed if the flower is cut. But this type of cutting should, where possible, be con- fined to those varieties developing longer stems during the season. Cutting the long- growth varieties will damage the follow- ing year's crop of flowers less than cutting short-growth varieties. However, cut the blooms only, and not the stems. PROPAGATE PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS, GRAFTS, OR SEEDS Camellias are usually propagated by rooting cuttings. A few varieties, how- ever, are difficult to root, even though they are strong growers when they once start. A very few varieties are extremely difficult to root, or do not grow well on their own roots. These include Alba Plena, Fimbriata (Alba Fimbriata) , Kiyo Kanoko, Somegawa, and perhaps some of the weaker Donckelari varieties. Usually, all varieties of Camellia reticulata are grafted. Camellias also may be propagated from seed, but ordinarily this is done to obtain rootstocks for grafting. Rooting Cuttings Use ripened green cuttings. The best cuttings come from plants grown under lath or sheltered in some other way. Their wood is not too hard. Ripened green cuttings of new growth give the TER SPROUT MAY BE :hed BACK best result. The growth that starts to push out in April should be sufficiently matured by late June or early July to make the best cuttings. Sometimes it is possible to root ripened cuttings taken during the dormant period. These usually take 6 months or longer to root, however, with success somewhat doubtful. How to prepare a cutting. A cut- ting is 3 to 6 inches long, with at least two or three leaf nodes. Save at least two leaves near the top, as shown in the draw- ing. If the cutting has started to make a second flush of growth, remove the suc- culent tip, but save at least two leaves near the top to assure rooting. Remove the leaves on the lower part of the cut- ting — the part to be inserted into the rooting medium — and, if possible, make the cut just below a leaf node. Rooting medium. This can be any good, coarse, sharp river sand that may or may not be mixed with perlite, pumice, vermiculite, or acid peat moss. Very fine results are obtained with a mixture of 75 per cent coarse sand and 25 per cent acid peat moss. Hormone dust. Treating cuttings with hormone dusts has not appreciably hastened rooting. It certainly does not take the place of good propagation tech- niques, such as controlling shade and moisture. If hormone dusts are used, fol- low directions on the container. Planting the cuttings. Insert the cuttings about half way into the rooting medium. If a cutting is very short and in danger of being dislodged at irrigation, tie it securely to a short stake. [8] Irrigating. Water often enough to keep the rooting medium moist at all times, but not so often that the material is kept saturated. Maintaining humidity. Protect the cuttings with a very humid atmosphere until they are rooted. Some growers root cuttings in special frames with glassed-in fronts, but the usual greenhouse bed or propagating frame, protected with cheese- cloth, should be satisfactory. Use more than one thickness of cheesecloth when the summer sun is very hot. During July and August an air conditioning system may be necessary in hot interior areas. Correct humidity can be maintained by regularly watering the cuttings. Until rooting starts, keep the glass covering closed. After rooting takes place, admit more air by leaving the cover open part way. Ultimately, under greenhouse condi- tions, while the cuttings are developing a good root system, the propagating frame will not need a cover. Outside a green- house, however, the cover of the propa- gating frame may be partly lifted during the hot part of the day and closed during mornings and evenings. Rooting period. Ripened green cut- tings should root in 6 to 10 weeks. Hard- wood cuttings, if they root at all, may require 7 months. The two or three leaves left on each cutting should remain intact during the rooting period. Loss of these leaves usually means loss of the cutting. Transplanting rooted cuttings. There is only one way to know when cut- tings have rooted sufficiently for trans- planting. Lift a few and examine the roots. If they are not yet ready for trans- planting, reinsert them in the rooting medium. Protect the existing roots. Use thumb or a dibble to make a hole in the soil; insert the cutting and gently press the soil around it. Usually, however, cuttings indicate when they are ready for transplanting without having to be pulled up. They show renewed growth and a healthy con- dition of the tops. When good root systems have devel- oped, the cuttings are transplanted into individual containers and kept in a cold frame or shaded greenhouse. As their root system increases, they are repotted at least once a year to prevent root bind- ing. In the second or third year they may be set out in the open garden. Grafting What to use. Rootstocks for grafting are usually grown from seed because seedlings tend to have the most vigorous root systems. There is no reason, how- ever, why rooted cuttings cannot be used for grafting if they display considerable vigor and a good root system. Grafting may be done in a number of ways. Only the cleft graft (most common) and the bark graft (next most common) are recommended and described here. Cleft grafting is used mostly from December through January and Febru- ary. Choose a healthy, vigorous root- stock; cut off the top 3 to 5 inches above the ground. Slant the cut to form a bevel. Split the top of the bevel down about 1 inch. Choose as a scion — the cutting to be grown on the rootstock — a healthy ma- ture cutting from the past season's growth. Cut the scion 4 to 6 inches long, with the lower end wedge-shaped. Insert the scion into the high side of the split in the rootstock so that the cambium — inner layer of bark and outer layer of wood — of the two meet exactly. Secure the junction by wrapping a cord around the rootstock. Cover the top of the entire plant to maintain consider- able humidity while the graft is uniting. A bell jar is a satisfactory cover. A large tin can with both ends cut out may also be used ; one end is placed on the soil and the top is covered with a piece of flat glass. Ventilation is controlled by moving the glass on the top rim of the can. Watch the graft to see that the surface remains healthy. The appearance of fungi on the surface near the cut usually in- [9] A good substitute for a bell jar is a can with both ends cut off, and the top covered with a piece of glass. dicates a need of more air. Lift the cover during the cool part of the day. If the plant lacks air, the fungi will disappear. If they do not disappear, treat the graft with a safe disinfectant, such as Cupro- cide or similar copper fungicidal dust. Bark grafting should be done during the early summer, when the bark of the rootstock is more pliable. Wood from the current season's growth that has hard- ened sufficiently to be able to withstand severe wilting is taken for the scion. Make a cutting about 4 to 6 inches long, and leave on it at least three leaf buds. Cut the leaves in half to reduce evaporation while the scion is uniting. Cut the lower end of the scion into a long, slim wedge, on one side for a dis- tance of about 2 inches and on the other for a distance of about % inch. Bevel the top of the rootstock as de- scribed for a cleft graft. On the high side of the bevel, split the bark down for about an inch. Insert the wedge of the scion between the bark and the wood of the rootstock, just behind the split, keeping the wood of the scion against the wood of the rootstock and the bark of the scion against the bark of the rootstock. Force the scion down for a distance of about 1% inches. Tie the graft in place so that the cambium layers fit tightly together. n BARK CAMBIUM — ■ WOOD CAMBIUM OP SCION MEETS CAMBIUM OF ROOTSTOCK SCION ROOTSTOCK GRAFT This shows the three steps in making a cleft graft. The slant of the rootstock should probably be greater than that shown in the drawing, for best results. Great care should be taken to insure that the cambium of the scion meets the cambium of the rootstock, or union may not take place. [10] The bark graft also is covered with a bell jar or a can, as used for the cleft graft, but is set under lath or in a cold frame for protection against the sun. The tempera- ture under lath or in a cold frame must not rise above 75° F. A cheesecloth cover should give such protection in summer. Considerable heat is needed to insure a good union of stock and scion. There- fore, grafts made in pots or tubs that can be moved about to assure ade- quate temperature are easier to handle than grafts made on rootstocks planted in the ground. The graft must be protected against drying or sunburn. When the cut tissues of either type of graft have united, gradually remove the cover. This period usually takes 8 to 10 weeks in winter, and 4 to 5 weeks in sum- mer. Lifting the jar, or tilting it to one side admits more air to the graft and al- lows the plant to harden off. If the top of the scion shows wilting, replace the glass for a short time, so that the hardening-off process can start over again; then, follow through the same steps. The graft union on this Camellia reticulata is healed over after several growing seasons. Examine the cut surfaces to see whether callous tissue has formed against the scion. If callous tissue has formed, cover with grafting wax that part of the stock 2" CUT B SPLIT BARK TIE AS SHOWN FOR CLE FT GRAFT Here are three steps used in making a bark graft. If cuts in scion are made properly, there is less chance of the cambium layers failing to unite. Drawing shows leaves removed; this is not done in actual practice. This type of graft must also be tied with cord. [ii] A cleft that does not heal over within a year or two, as the one on the left, should be covered with grafting wax. The graft on the right was photographed after the first growing season. Healing over the cut surface is well advanced. Notice the use of the slanting cut on the stock. and scion not yet healed. Then, remove the jar. Also remove the tie used to hold the scion in place. A cleft graft will usually start growth shortly after the union is complete. A bark graft made in summer may remain dormant for several months, or may not produce any growth until spring. Occasionally the cambium will not match properly, or the tissues will become infected or dried out. When this happens, the scion will fail to unite with the cam- bium. Instead, the rootstock may send up sucker growth. Some of the sucker growth may in time be large enough to be grafted. Weak stocks should not be grafted. Small stocks of camellias (under *4 inch diameter) are being used success- fully for grafting. Use a calliper to check the diameter of stock and scion to be cer- tain the two are the same size. The whip graft has been used with excellent union for such small stock grafting. Seeding Camellias grown from seed sometimes take five to seven years to bloom. Only growers willing to give proper attention to them, or wanting rootstocks for graft- ing should attempt to grow plants from seed. Flowers from seedlings seldom are satisfactory, but occasionally a beautiful variety is discovered in this way. Since camellia seed is not available commercially, most growers save it from single varieties to produce propagating stock. Seed produced by careful hybrid- izing should be used to produce worthy new varieties. Treating seed. Some growers hasten germination by carefully cracking the hard outer shell. Others bore holes in the shell to admit water easily. With either method, avoid injuring the fleshy inner seed. Planting. Seed is planted about % inch deep, in good, rich, well-drained soil in a specially prepared seedbed, tub, or pot. Seed should be planted at the be- ginning of good growing weather — about March or April. Keep the soil moist dur- ing germination, which should take place in 10 to 12 weeks in favorable weather. When seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they are transplanted to individual containers and handled in the same man- ner as are rooted cuttings. [12] CONTROL PESTS, DISEASES, BUD DROP, AND FLOWER DECLINE Camellias are not usually subject to damage from very many pests or diseases. But no matter what the pest, DDT is never applied to camellias. Pests General control program. An all- round control program for pests consists of a summer oil spray during the first of April and again during the latter part of September. Use any of the safe, refined oil emulsions at a strength of about 2 per cent — 21/2 ounces (6 level tablespoons) to a gallon of water. Adding a teaspoon of 40 per cent nicotine sulfate, such as Black- leaf 40, may increase the efficiency of the oil spray somewhat. Spray when the new growth is some- what matured. This is done on days that are not too hot. Thorough coverage is im- portant if all pests are to be reached. When a low-pressure sprayer is used, give a second application about 10 days after the first to insure more complete control. Special control program. The summer oil spray described above should adequately control most scale insects, aphids, and spider mites. The control of certain other pests occasionally attacking camellias is discussed below. The Fuller's rose weevil (Panto- morus godmani) may attack camellias growing near other types of plants it normally attacks. The wingless weevil feeds on the edges of the leaves. Cotton barriers tied around the base of the ca- mellia trunk or branches may be enough to keep the weevils from crawling up to the leaves. The black vine weevil {Brachy- rhinus sulcatus) attacks a number of Cal- ifornia plants, including camellias and rhododendrons. The adult beetle attacks the edges of the leaves, while the grubs, which live in the ground under the plant, may attack the bark just below ground surface and even girdle and kill the plant. Benzene hexachloride (BHC) is prov- ing to be an excellent control material. A single application of the dust to the soil under the plant may be enough to protect against emerging adults for several weeks. BHC probably will not kill all of the grubs. This material is now available in the pure gamma isomer form (lindane) un- der such trade names as Isotox, or in the normal 6 per cent product. Allow 2 pounds of the 6 per cent product to 100 gallons of water, or 1 pound of 60 per cent gamma isomer to 100 gallons of water. The omnivorous looper, or meas- uring worm (Sabulodes caber ata) occa- sionally eats leaves and flower buds. The looper can be controlled with any good stomach poison, such as lead arsenate, used at the rate of % ounce to a gallon of water. Hand picking may be sufficient if only a few worms are present. The rootknot nematode is a micro- scopic wormlike pest that thrives in sandy soils of good moisture and adequate heat. If it is prevalent on other plants growing near camellias it may attack the camellia roots. Plants susceptible to nematode attack therefore should not be used in the area of camellia plantings. Diseases Flower blight is evidenced by a dis- coloration of flowers. The disease is caused by a fungus, Sclerotinia Camelliae, that lives in the soil where diseased flowers drop. It may remain alive for several years. Where this fungus appears, gather and destroy all diseased flowers. Leaving even a few affected blossoms may encourage the life of the fungus in the soil indefi- nitely. Where flower blight appears in potted plants, remove the top 3 inches of soil and replace with new soil. This may eliminate the resting stage of the fungus. Chemical [13] The flower on the right was damaged by flower blight, a fungus disease. Flower blight is caused by a fungus that can live in the soil for years and resist chemical fumigants. The healthy camellia specimen at the left is shown for contrast. (Courtesy Department of Plant Pathology.) treatment of the topsoil so far has proved ineffective for control of flower blight. Leaf yellowing may or may not be a disease. Some cases of yellowing are thought to be caused by a virus. If this were true, yellowing would be transmitted to cuttings or grafts. There is no known cure for yellowing caused by virus. Avoid propagating with infected plants. Leaves can also become yellowed from other causes. Yellow mottled foliage on healthy plants can be a natural variega- tion. The extent of variegation may differ greatly on the same plant, as on some of the mottled forms of the variety Daika- gura. Yellowing may also be caused by soil nutrition deficiency or by sunburn. The correction of nutritional deficiencies in the soil is explained on page 5. Sunburn can be prevented by adequate shade for the plant. It can usually be distinguished from nutritional deficiency by examining leaves that are partly shaded by other leaves. When yellowing occurs only on exposed parts of the leaves, sunburn is usually responsible. If the entire leaf turns yellow, regardless of exposure, usually some nutritional trouble is in- volved. Scar tissue (scab), which appears as small, rounded or oval raised areas, some- times develops on the underside of leaves. At first glance these raised areas may be mistaken for scale insects; closer exami- nation will reveal a corky layer of cells. Since no organism of any kind has been found in these scabs, they are thought to be caused by too much wind, by in- jurious gases in the air, or by injurious sprays. These hazards can be avoided by choice of suitable location and use of approved sprays. Bud Drop Bud drop is not a disease in the true sense, but it does cause growers much concern. There is no one cause of bud drop. At present no hard and fast conclu- sions can be drawn about its nature. The [14] following factors, however, should be rec- ognized in determining its presence : 1) The condition seems inherent in some faulty varieties, such as Pink Per- fection. 2) A moist rot caused by wet weather during the time buds start to open may result in bud drop. 3) Plants that set more buds than will normally ripen seem to shed buds automatically. 4) Injury to roots or crown may induce bud drop, although when this is the cause, the plant usually shows other signs of weak- ness so that bud drop may be a symptom of loss of bark — caused by grub dam- age — that may weaken or even kill the plant. This can be determined only by closely examining the crown. 5) Insuffi- cient water for several weeks in late fall, before the rainy season starts, may so weaken a plant that later on buds will drop. 6) Other factors are thought to be insufficient plant food in the soil and poor drainage around the roots of the plant. Flower Decline Too rapid decline of open flowers usu- ally is caused by exposure to excessive moisture, sun, or frost. This can usually be avoided by choice of location, as ex- plained on page 2, or by removing potted plants to a more favorable location dur- ing the blooming period. CAMELLIAS ARE CLASSIFIED ACCORDING TO FLOWER FORM The botanical characteristics of camel- lia flowers form the base on which the many varieties are segregated into eight classes. This classification is based largely on work done by Dr. H. Harold Hume and Mr. R. J. Wilmot of the University of Florida. Varieties Most Popular Of the 10 or more distinct species of camellias, only three are considered im- portant at the present time. These three, Camellia japonica, C. sasanqua, and C. reticulata are the only ones discussed in detail in this circular. Camellia japonica. The most popu- lar varieties grown in California at pres- ent belong to the species Camellia japon- ica, a native of Japan and China. The flowers are pink, red, white, and varie- gated. The leaves are about 4 inches long, glossy green, ovate or elliptic, with sharp serrations. The photographs on pages 16 and 17 show the latest classification of the varieties of C. japonica. These plants will tolerate temperatures down to about 10 °E Camellia sasanqua is also a native of China and Japan, but it is more strag- gling in growth and not so hardy as C. japonica. It is primarily of interest be- cause of early flowering. It comes in two colors — white and pink. Flowers range from single to semidouble and occasion- ally double. The branches are pubescent (hairy) when young and the leaf midrib also is inclined to be hairy. The leaves are glossy green and about 2 inches long. In shape they are similar to the leaves of C. japonica. Camellia reticulata is a native of China. Plants are usually sparsely folia- ted and not so compact as many Japanese varieties. The plant commonly sold in California as C. reticulata (Captain Rawes type) is only one of perhaps 20 or more varieties of this species. Its rose- pink flowers average 5 to 7 inches in di- ameter. Its wavy petals (opposite page 1 ) add to its popularity. The leaves, which are about 5 inches long, are shaped like those of C. japonica. Dr. W. E. Lammerts, plant breeder of Descanso Gardens, La Canada, Califor- nia, reported in 1950 on "The New Camel- lia Reticulata Hybrids" in The American Camellia Yearbook. He listed and de- scribed 15 varieties from China. Eighteen Chinese varieties are established already in California. Complete sets of the origi- nal 15 varieties were released for sale in the spring of 1952. Among these were: 1) Peony or Peony Flowered (6 to 8 inches [15 :||;|k: CAMELLIA 1 Class: Single. Petals: Has 5 to 7 and sometimes 9. Stamens: All central, united into a cylinder. Class: Semidouble. Petals: Has more than 9, and usually from 1 to 20. Stamens: All central, united into a cylinder. ''■'-<"-'■■ Class: Incomplete Double with Large Petals. Petals: Has numerous large petals. Stamens: Single stamens, or bunches of sta- mens or both intermixed. Class: Incomplete Double with Small Inner Petals. Petals: Numerous small petals within the guard petals. Stamens: Single stamens or bunches of sta- mens or both intermixed, forming an ir- regular mass. CLASSIFICATION Class: Incomplete Double with Large and Small Inner Petals. Petals: Numerous large and small petals within the guard petals. Stamens: Single stamens or bunches of sta- mens or both, forming an irregular mass. VI ■^m"<&>^ Class: Double Irregular. Petals: Irregularly arranged in a convex mass, usually small, straplike, and folded, with an outer row of normal petals. Stamens: If present, are few in number and hidden by petals. Class: Double, Incomplete Imbricated. PetaU: Imbricated except for relatively large, unopened center. Stamens: None visible. 8 Class: Double, Regular Imbricated or Tiered. Petals: Regularly imbricated (overlapping like a shingle), or tiered (laid one on top of the other). Stamens: None. in diameter; formal double; pink with white stripes). 2) Purple Gown (6 to 8 inches across; purple or wine red with pin stripes of white; peony form). 3) Changs Temple (6 to 8 inches in diam- eter; pale pink; semidouble). Others, such as Tali (rose pink lightly variegated with white), Jewelry (deep red), and Thick Leaf Butterfly Wing (rose pink), reach 6 inches or more in diameter. It will take time for these new varieties to become available at a price that some gar- deners can afford, but they are being propagated in California, and will in- crease the interest in Camellia reticulata. Hybrids of C. japoriica are also being developed, and some of these should prove very desirable. Other species of camellias may become popular in the future, but at present they are of interest only to collectors and plant breeders. Some Camellia Sasanqua Varieties' Variety Form of flowers Color of flowers Apple Blossom single Blanchette single Cleopatra semidouble Dawn semidouble Fuji-no-mine (Snow) double Hiro double Hugh Evans semidouble Judith single Maiden's Blush single Shishigishira (sport of Showa-no-saki) semidouble Showa-no-saki semidouble Tanya single White Doves semidouble pink fused on white white rose white shaded blush pink at edges pure white with yellow stamens deep crimson deep carmine phlox pink blush white deep pink medium pink deep rose white * These are grown primarily because of their early blooming period — from early October to December. Dealers in this species are importing many other fine varieties. [18] Some Popular Varieties of Pink Camellias Variety Class" Remarks Ake-Bono (Dawn) M 2 Bertha Harms M 2 Chandleri Elegans (Francine) M 6 Chiyo-no-Hanagata (Dorothea 5 Blanche) M Daikagura Shell Pink (High Hat) E-M 6 Debutante (Sara C. Hastie) E-M 6 Eleanor Hagood L 7, 8 Enrico Bettoni (Sarah Frost) M 2, 3, 7 Eugene Lizze M-L 5 Gen. George Patton M-L 3, 7 Gov. Earl Warren M 3 Herme Pink M 3 Hoshiguruma (Star Wheel) E 3 Kumasaka (Lady Marian) M-L 3, 5 Lady Clare (Grandiflora Rosea) M 2 Lady Hume's Blush M 8 Louise Maclay (Grandiflora Superba) 2 M-L Magnoliaeflora Southern (Rose of 2 Dawn) M Marchioness of Exeter E-M 6 Margaret Higdon M 3 Martha Price M 7 Mary Charlotte M 6 Mathotiana Rosea (Pink Beauty) L 3, 7 Mme. Hahn M 3 Mrs. Howard Asper M 2 Mrs. John Laing M-L 8 Mrs. Josephine M. Hearn M 3 Mrs. K. Sawada (John Marshall) M 8 Mrs. Tingley M-L 8 Otqme Pink M-L 8 Pearl Maxwell M-L 8 Pink Ball M 6 Pinkie M 8 Pink Perfection E-M 8 fine deep rose pink; large, compact; vigorous blush pink; strong upright growth rose pink; dwarf; slow growing; spreading rose shaded white; large flower; upright; vigorous slow compact growth popular pale pink; light green foliage; vigorous better than Pink Perfection; upright; vigorous clear pink; large; not precocious; upright- variable; vigorous light rose splashed white; slow; compact large; bright pink; upright; vigorous popular; good exhibition variety tall, slender plant; vigorous deep pink, shaped like star wheel; dwarf; slow many flowers, precocious; large; vigorous; compact, upright; very popular deep pink, veined deep rose, petals crinkled; popular white blushed pink; loose, spreading; slow deep pink veined deep rose, petals crinkled; spreading; slow blush pink, good; compact, upright; slow; popular light pink, large; spreading willowy branches; vigorous; very pleasing deep rose, large, petals margined white; floriferous; upright; vigorous soft pink; vigorous, spreading growth pleasing light pink; compact, upright; vigorous clear pink; best in coastal area bright pink; vigorous upright growth good large light pink, cup shaped like Lotus floriferous but rather small flowers; bushy, com- pact; vigorous rose pink, large fluted petals with high center; compact; upright fine pale pink; patented variety; vigorous; com- pact, upright salmon-silver pink; compact growth one rose pink, one light pink; good bloomer; . spreading, compact; slow shell pink; vigorous, compact growth pale pink, heavy flower; leaves light green; up- right, compact; vigorous good shell pink precocious; drops buds badly, needs disbudding * See pages 16-17. E, early; M, midseason; L, late. [19] Some Popular Varieties of Pink Camellias — Continued Variety Class' Remarks Pink Star M-L Rosea Superba L Rose Dawn M-L Shin Akebone E-M Silvery Pink M Thelma Dale M Valtevareda L 5 7,8 3,7 2 8 3 8 distinctive shape; petals shatter; dwarf, spreading; slow growing deep rose pink, large; upright; vigorous; compact shape like Alba Plena; upright; good grower flesh pink, good yellow stamens; vigorous good light rose, shaped like Pope Pius IX; com- pact, upright phlox pink pink shading deeper pink on outer petals, cup shaped; well branched, compact, upright Some Popular Varieties of Red Camellias Adolphe Audusson M Amabilis Red M Anne Lindbergh M-L Arabella M Arajishi E Benten M Blood of China (Victor Emmanuel) L Brilliant M Capitol City M-L Chandleri Rubra E Cheerful (Lucida) M C. M. Hovey (Colonel Firey) L Covina M Daikagura Red E-M Edwin H. Folk M-L Elena Nobile (Napa Red) L Ella Drayton M-L Emperor of Russia M Flame M Fred Sander (Fimbriata Superba) M Glen 40 L Goshoguruma L H. A. Downing (Helen of Troy) M 2,3 1 5 3 6 1 3 7 1 6 7 8 3 6 3 3 8 5 2 2 8 2 2 large red bloom of heavy substance; plant very sturdy good single; drops petals early rose red with high center; upright; vigorous orange red; large; vigorous, upright upright; vigorous; tolerates full sun better than Amabilis; cup shaped; good substance deep salmon red; large; compact; vigorous floriferous; upright; strong grower rose red; remains to be proven loose grower, spreading; almost same as Vedrine upright, compact; vigorous large dark red; spreading; slow growing; flowers shatter in hot weather rose red; compact; floriferous; easy to grow bushy; dependable bloomer; very popular bright red; large, loose flower; vigorous, upright growth flame red; bushy, upright; vigorous; long season dark red; upright; vigorous; popular cut flower large scarlet; multicentered; upright; compact deep flame red; large; floriferous; vigorous; upright; compact like a ruffled petunia in red; fimbriated petals; upright, compact; vigorous fine deep red; precocious; upright, compact- slow growing brilliant red with heavy stamens or petaloids; very compact bell-shaped flower; rose red veined blood red; bushy; vigorous * See pages 16-17. E, early; M, midseason; L, late. [20] Some Popular Varieties of Red Camellias — Continued Variety Class" Remarks Imperator M John lllges M 6 1 Lady Mary Cromartie M-L Lady Vansittart M 3 2 Letitia Schroder M 6 Maraschino M 3,7 Mathotiana (Julia Drayton) M 3,7 Monjisu Red L Mrs. Charles Cobb M Otome Red M-L Paulette Goddard M Pearl Harbor L Pope Pius IX M 3 5 3,7 3 4 8 Pride of Greenville M Professor Charles S. Sargent M 6 6 Tinsie M Uncle Sam M Warratah (Anemonaeflora) M William Downing M 1 3,7 6 2 light red of good form; bushy; vigorous bright red, trumpet shaped, good form, very large; medium loose, upright large flower; upright; vigorous; slow large flower; floriferous; good substance; very compact; holly-like foliage dark red; large, medallion shaped; upright growth edge of petals curves upward; blooms all at once large scarlet; rose-bud center; upright, compact- vigorous; very popular cherry red, floriferous; bushy; slow grower dark red; spreading; vigorous strong bushy plant; not well known very large red; vigorous; upright growth dark red; large; vigorous; upright growth large dark red that keeps well; makes long growth; upright compact large flower; tall grower; vigorous dark red with pompon center, not always good; floriferous; upright, compact; vigorous a novelty miniature rose red; bushy; vigorous; needs further tests not good near coast; Arajishi is better purple red, floriferous; bushy; vigorous Some Popular Varieties of White Camellias Abundance M Alba Plena E-M Alba Superba E-M Amabilis M Candidissima L Caprice M Chastity E-M Daikagura White E-M Fimbriata (Alba Fimbriata) E Finlandia E-M Florence Stratton M large petals, flowers last well; floriferous; tall; vigorous large flowers; bushy growth; slow; weak grower large flowers, yellow stamens; glossy foliage good single, like miniature Matilija poppy; up- right; vigorous resembles a star; shy bloomer at times but pop- ular for more than 100 years some yellow in the white; upright; vigorous white with cream center; vigorous; compact, upright good variety but just becoming available large, fringed petals; slow, bushy, spreading; popular over 100 years large, fluted; compact, spreading; slow vigorous, bushy * See pages 16-17. E, early; M, midseason; L, late. [21] Some Popular Varieties of White Camellias — Continued Variety Class' Remarks Gigantea Alba M Joshua Youtz E K. Sawada M Lotus (Grandiflora Alba) M Magnoliaeflora Alba M Mathotiana Alba M-L 1 3,6,7 7 2 2 3,7 Morning Glow E-M 8 Mrs. Charles Simons M-L 5 Nobilissima E-M 5 Otome White (White Bleichroeder) M 3,7 PaxL 8 Pride of Descanso M 2,5 Purity (Shiragiku) M-L 3,7,8 Supresse Nobilissima M 6 White Empress E-M 2 White Herme M 3 White Perfection L 8 very large flowers; upright; vigorous white form of Daikagura large white; new and being tested very large flowers; upright; vigorous white with cream center like water lily; large flowers; bushy large flowers; petals roll back; upright- vigorous large white; upright; vigorous medium compact; spreading white shading to yellow; upright; vigorous medium flower; slow; compact white laurel-leaf; good bud center new; large with regular petals; upright slight yellow shading at center; floriferous; good cut flower; upright; vigorous large, good, irregular; upright; fast grower very large; compact, upright; vigorous upright; vigorous compact; vigorous Some Popular Varieties of Variegated Camellias Adolphe Audusson Variegated M Ake-Bono Variegated M Amabilis Variegated M Anita M Bella Romana E-M Capt. John Sutter M-L Chandleri Elegans Variegated M Charlotte Bradford M Cho-no-hanagata M C. M. Wilson M Countess of Orkney M-L Daikagura Variegated E-M Delectissima E-M Donckelari E-M Emperor of Russia Variegated M 2,3 2 1 2 large bloom of heavy substance, dark red spotted white; compact, sturdy white lined rose pink; compact, strong grower pale pink striped deeper pink; upright light pink striped carmine; upright, vigorous; compact; a striking flower light pink striped and splashed carmine; florif- erous; very dense growth; shatters rose pink blotched white; upright; vigorous rose pink and white; one of the best; slow; spreading pink with white margins blush pink, shaded white sport of Chandleri Elegans, with same form and habit; light pink with delicate edge o* white around petals white base peppered and striped red; a good flower, better than Peppermint; compact rose pink splotched white; flowers over a long season; slow; compact white with wide pink stripe; large; spreading red marbled white; large bloom; slow grower; an old favorite variegated scarlet, large; slow; upright * See pages 16-17. E, early; M, midseason; L, late. [22] Some Popular Varieties of Variegated Camellias — Continued Variety Class- Remarks Emperor Wilhelm E Finlandia Variegated M Flame Variegated M H. A. Downing Variegated M Herme (Hikari Gengi) M Iwani Shibori M (F.G. no. 2) Kasuga Shibori M Kenny L Kumasaka Variegated L 3, 5 Lady Clare Variegated (Oniji) M 2 Lady Kay M 6 Lallarook (Laurel Leaf) M-L 8 Lawrewee Walker M Magnolia Queen L Mallot Variegated (Princess Nagaskie) M Matsukasa (Pine Cone) L Mikenjaku M Monjisu Variegated M-L Mrs. Baldwin Wood M Mrs. Freeman Weiss M Nagasaki M Otome Variegated (Baronne de Bleichroeder) M Paeoniaeflora M 6 Pierette M Pink Lady M 6 Prof. Charles S. Sargent Variegated M 6 Sensation M 2 Sierra Spring M Sweeti Vera M Tricolor Sieboldi M Wakanoura Variegated E-M 6 angular growth, large leaves, large blooms; hard to propagate 2 white streaked crimson; needs pruning 2 deep flame red spotted white; upright, compact 2 rose red marbled white; large; vigorous; bushy 3 pink petals with white border and streaked deep pink; one of the best and dependable 2 rose red mottled white; slow, compact growth 8 red blotched white; not common; spreading 3 deep rose pink blotched white; slow, compact growth rose blotched white; vigorous; upright deep pink marbled white; bushy; vigorous cherry red, variegated white pink marbled white, large; compact, upright; slow 5 red, variegated white 2 white with occasional pink stripes; medium bush growth 2 soft pink marbled white and rose, large; low, spreading; vigorous 5 cone shaped; rose pink marbled white; free flowering; bushy; slow 2, 4 red with white blotches; spreading 3 red marbled white; floriferous, showy; low and bushy 3 white with pink stripes and blotches; medium spreading growth 6 medium pink shading to white; large 2 rose pink marbled white, very large; spreading; interesting color and form; slow 3, 7 soft pink streaked crimson; form similar to Pink Perfection; compact; slow white to cream with a few rose-red lines; large, shaggy; bushy; very old variety 8 flesh pink striped cherry red; large; not com- mon; bushy; slow sport of Paeoniaeflora; pink with white edge dark red mottled white; semidwarf; floriferous new white to cream with rose stripes; large; compact, upright; vigorous 3 luminous pink with white variegation 6 white and pale pink, large; open, upright- vigorous 2 white streaked carmine; large, slightly cupped; upright; vigorous; old variety for mass effect 2 similar to above; long season; bright green leaves * See pages 16—17. E, early; M, midseason; L, late. [23] CAMELLIA ORGANIZATIONS SERVE GROWERS Camellia fanciers have formed a num- ber of organizations that serve many practical purposes: 1) standardize varie- tal names; 2) work out growing prob- lems; and 3) furnish cultural information to anyone interested, from the profes- sional grower to the newest amateur. Among these organizations are the Amer- ican Camellia Society — a national organ- ization — and, in California, the following societies: Camellia Society of Kern County, Bakersfield Camellia Society of Orange County, Santa Ana Camellia Society of Sacramento, Sacramento Camellia Society of Santa Clara County, San Jose Central California Camellia Society, Fresno Los Angeles Camellia Society, Los Angeles Northern California Camellia Society, Berkeley Pacific Camellia Society, Glendale Pomona Valley Camellia Society, Claremont San Diego Camellia Society, San Diego Southern California Camellia Society, Pasadena Temple City Camellia Society, Temple City A new organization to be known as All America Camellia Selections has been formed. It is hoped that entries for the first three-year camellia competition may be sent in the fall of 1952 to test sites in Alabama, Louisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, Oregon, Washington, and cen- tral and southern California. Further in- formation may be obtained from Mr. David Cook, Secretary, All America Camellia Selections, 11239 Ventura Boulevard, North Hollywood, California. REFERENCES Gerbing, Gustav George 1943. Camellias. 264 pp. Photographs in natural color. Gustav George Gerbing, Fernandina, Florida. Hume, H. Harold 1946. Camellias in America. 350 pp. Color plates. J. Horace McFarland Co., Box 687, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Oregon Camellia Society 1948. Camellias illustrated. Southern California Camellia Society 1949. The camellia, its culture and nomenclature. The Southern California Camellia Society, 40 N. San Rafael Ave., Pasadena, California. Periodicals and Bulletins American Camellia Society Annual Northern California Camellia Society Official Bulletin (Mrs. Barlow Hollingshead, editor, 12 La Cintilla Avenue, Orinda, California) [24] In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible, it is sometimes neces- sary to use trade names of products and equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical identifications. In so doing, it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. Co-operative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture. University of California, and United States Department -if Agriculture CO-opcrating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. J. Earl Coke, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 10m-12,'52(A2238s)MH eg§|||^> m THIS BOOK Tr * IHJE ON T DATE CAMELLIAS . . . require somewhat more attention than do most garden ornamentals. Success in growing them is not always certain, but a delightful reward for their care is the delicate beauty of their blooms. THIS MANUAL... gives rather complete directions for the planting and growing of camellias. Included are lists of the more popular varieties, together with comments on their growth and habits. Selling price $.2428 State sales tax 0072 Total price $.25