er 
 
 C. DEL LEE 
 

HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES 
 
HOW TO TIE 
 
 Salmon Flies 
 
 A TREATISE ON THE METHODS OF TYING 
 THE VARIOUS KINDS OF SALMON FLIES 
 
 With Illustrated Directions 
 
 AND CONTAINING 
 THE DRESSINGS OF FORTY FLIES 
 
 BY CAPTAIN; HALE 
 
 A /( 
 
 East Lancashire Regiment 
 
 ^London 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, LIMITED 
 
 &t sDun0tan'0 $ou0e 
 
 FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET, E.G. 
 
 1892 
 
 (All Rights Reserved) 
 
PREFACE 
 
 ITHIN the last few years numerous 
 books have been written on all branches 
 of Fishing and Fishing Tackle, save 
 one. That one, Salmon Fly-tying, has not received 
 the attention it deserves, although many improve- 
 ments in methods of tying, and in materials used, 
 have been made. I have endeavoured to describe 
 these. 
 
 I am much indebted to Mr. C. O'Meara for his 
 assistance. He photographed all the Originals from 
 which the Illustrations were drawn. This entailed 
 more work than might be supposed ; for in many 
 cases the negatives were unsatisfactory, and fresh 
 photographs had to be taken. My thanks are also 
 due to Mr. R. B. Marston, Editor of The Fishing 
 Gazette, for his assistance and suggestions in con- 
 nection with the book. 
 
 J. H. HALE. 
 
 WOOLWICH. 
 
 a 2 
 
 M8I38949 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION, . ix 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 HOOKS, ....... i 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC., .... 6 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 ON DYEING FURS AND FEATHERS, . . . .23 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS AND TAILS, . . .28 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 BUTTS, RIBBING, BODIES, AND HACKLES, . . -47 
 
viii CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS, . . .63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 WINGS, . . . . . . .78 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES, . . . .95 
 
 INDEX, . .119 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 'OW many fishermen one meets who 
 cannot tie their own flies many of 
 them not even being able to name 
 their different parts ; and of those 
 who do tie them, what a great proportion do so 
 indifferently ! 
 
 I believe the reason lies in the facts that there 
 are no books entering thoroughly into all the 
 details of the subject, and that lessons can only 
 be obtained by paying a long price. It is cer- 
 tainly far cheaper to make one's own flies than 
 to buy them, putting aside the amusement and 
 satisfaction derived from doing so. 
 
 My object in writing these pages is to supply 
 such a book, in the hopes that those who have 
 the leisure and inclination to do so, will be 
 enabled by it, not only to learn to tie their own 
 flies, but also to increase their sport. 
 
 I have so often met ardent anglers throwing 
 flies of such wondrous deformity, that, no matter 
 
x INTRODUCTION 
 
 what skill was exercised in handling the rod, 
 no fish with ordinary fishy brain would glance at, 
 much less leave his resting-place to examine. I 
 am rather inclined to believe that these mon- 
 strosities frighten the fish. A little knowledge 
 of the subject of fly -tying would save these 
 anglers days of disgust and disappointment. 
 Salmon fly-tying is a most fascinating subject : 
 partly because there is so much variety in it, 
 partly because (to those who strive for perfection) 
 of the difficulties. In nearly every fly that he 
 makes the beginner will find something new to 
 learn, some new fact to make a note of. Practice 
 there must be. Even those who can tie small 
 trout flies well, and can handle silk, etc., easily, 
 will find a salmon fly a very different thing at 
 first : there are so many more details to attend to, 
 and so many more difficulties to be overcome. 
 Perfection in fly-tying is not absolutely necessary 
 to ensure success ; but it will generally be found, 
 I think, that those who have well-tied flies are 
 more successful than those who have badly tied 
 ones. 
 
 Mechanical perfection alone, though, will not 
 ensure beauty in a fly ; for, however well a fly 
 may be tied, if harmony of colour is absent, half 
 the pleasure to the eye, or satisfaction to the 
 
INTRODUCTION xi 
 
 mind, is wanting ; therefore the two should go 
 hand in hand. 
 
 There has been no attempt in these pages to 
 write anything more than the experiences and 
 ideas of an amateur fly-maker and fisherman, the 
 desire of the writer being to describe the details 
 of the art of salmon fly-making in such homely 
 language as would convey the several processes, 
 clearly, to the comprehension of all beginners 
 who care to approach it. 
 
ERRATA 
 
 Page 15, line 3,/^r under read over. 
 
 26, for lines n to 17 read: Pour a tumblerful of cold water 
 into a basin, then add gradually a teaspoonful 
 of acid. Then pour in gradually water, in 
 which dye has already been dissolved ; add 
 the feathers and proceed as before. Do not 
 stand over the basin when mixing the acid 
 and water. 
 
 42, line 3, for right and left read two rights. 
 
 51, fig. 29, a strand of tying silk should be shown hanging 
 from the butt. 
 
 70, line 13, for ribbon read ribbing. 
 
 73, line 4, for jay read teg. 
 
 75, line \6 t for feather read pair of feathers. 
 
^ 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 HOOKS. 
 
 HE numerous varieties of hooks 
 which are made and sold for 
 salmon flies can be divided, as 
 far as they affect fly-tyers, into 
 two kinds, viz. : First, the ordi- 
 nary straight - shanked hooks, 
 with gut loops tied on to them ; second, those 
 with metal eyes, or, as they are called, ' eyed 
 hooks.' The varieties of both kinds, single and 
 double, as regards bend, thickness of wire, shape 
 of points, make, shape and angle of the 'eye,' 
 are innumerable, but do not concern the fly-tyer. 
 Of the two kinds, I have no hesitation in re- 
 commending eyed hooks over the plain ones, 
 provided they fulfil the two following condi- 
 tions : First, that when fastened by a good 
 knot to the casting line, the ' pull ' is in the same 
 straight line with the hook shank ; second, that 
 the eye of the hook is perfectly smooth, so as to 
 prevent the gut from chafing as much as possible. 
 It is only when the eye is turned down that the 
 first condition can be fulfilled ; and when the ' eye' 
 is brazed on (as in No. 2, Fig. i) to the shank, or 
 
 A 
 
HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 ( 
 
 ( 
 
 Fig. i. 
 
 when the wire forming the eye is carried back 
 along the shank (as in No. i), that the second 
 condition can be fulfilled. If the wire is merely 
 bent into the shape of an eye 
 (as in No. 3), the rough end of 
 the wire must cut the gut, and 
 therefore an eye so made is 
 objectionable. Those with the 
 eye brazed on are preferable, 
 as they are neater ; besides 
 which, there is a flat surface on to which to tie the 
 wings, a great help to the beginner, as it is more 
 easy ; the wings too will be firmer. Many fisher- 
 men argue that metal eyes, however smooth they 
 may be, fray the gut cast more than hooks with 
 gut loops to them, but I have not found it so. 
 
 Now, if the above-mentioned conditions be ful- 
 filled, the advantages to be derived from the use 
 of eyed hooks are as follows : First, Flies tied 
 on them will last very much longer ; in fact, where 
 natural or undyed feathers are employed in their 
 manufacture, they will last for years ; whereas 
 those tied on hooks with gut loops last but a very 
 short time, and cannot be depended upon after 
 comparatively little use ; hence a great saving of 
 expense no small item when the price of some 
 flies is taken into consideration. Second, A great 
 saving of time in tying flies, as with the plain 
 hooks gut has to be looked out, soaked, twisted, 
 fitted, tapered, and then tied on, while with the 
 
HOOKS. 3 
 
 eyed hook there is nothing but a layer of tying 
 silk down the shank. Third, The bodies of flies 
 can be made much thinner (for some rivers very 
 necessary) ; the heads, too, can be kept smaller, 
 one of the most important points in a salmon fly. 
 The chief thing that a salmon fly-tyer has to look 
 to is, that his flies, when made and attached to 
 the cast, will swim perfectly steadily, without 
 swaying to one side or the other ; but however 
 well they may be made, they will not swim 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 straightly unless attached to the cast by a good 
 knot properly tied. By a good knot, I mean one 
 that is perfectly secure, is small and neat, is easily 
 tied and untied, and, last but not least, one that 
 will hold the fly securely, and not allow it to be- 
 come loose, or swing about at the knot or junc- 
 tion with the cast. The best that I know of, both 
 for hooks with gut loops, and eyed hooks, is the 
 one figured in the illustration, and called the 
 ' figure of 8 ' knot. Its advantages are, that when 
 complete, it is very small ; the gut has to be 
 passed only once through the loop or eye, and 
 
4 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 can be undone in a moment. It is suited to all 
 sizes of flies, except when the eye is very large. 
 The illustrations show the method of tying the 
 knot so clearly, that it is unnecessary to give 
 written directions. But in all cases the gut must 
 be first passed down through the loop or eye, so 
 as to bring it as nearly as possible in line with the 
 shank, when the knot is pulled tight. To tighten 
 the knot, first the line A must be pulled, then 
 the end B the former is then cut off. To undo 
 the knot, simply push the line B steadily, when 
 the whole knot is loosened at once. For hooks 
 with large eyes, or with the eyes made of thick 
 wire, the above knot will not do, as it will not 
 
 Fig. 3- 
 
 grip the hook, and with such the best knot is 
 undoubtedly the slip knot, as shown ; but this 
 means that the gut has to be passed twice through 
 the eye, and is not easily undone when once 
 pulled tight. On the other hand, it is perfectly 
 safe, and grips the hook firmly. When it is 
 necessary to change a fly attached by this knot 
 the gut must either be cut off, or worked loose 
 with a pin or stiletto. 
 
 As to the sizes of salmon hooks, there are two 
 scales : the first, or old one, though still made use 
 
HOOKS. 5 
 
 of, is the ' Redditch ; scale. The second is the 
 * New Scale.' A full-size illustration is given of 
 hooks up to 5/0 or 19. Hooks are made very 
 much larger, up to four inches in length ; but 
 the figures are sufficient to show the sizes and 
 different numberings. Although this is a book 
 on fly tying and not on fishing, it will not perhaps 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 be out of place here to advise the use of only 
 the best hooks. It is labour thrown away in 
 making flies either for your own use, or for that of 
 others, to tie flies on bad hooks. Sooner or later at 
 the river-side there will be loss of temper, disap- 
 pointment, and disgust. The same remarks apply 
 to all materials used in salmon fly manufacture. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 
 
 HE following materials, implements, 
 etc., are used for making salmon flies. 
 Tying silks, floss silks, seal's fur, pig's 
 wool, mohair, chenilles, tinsels, feathers, 
 scissors, hackle pliers, stiletto, penknife, cobbler's 
 wax, varnish, vice, methylated spirit, and gut. 
 To assist the beginner in his selection when 
 buying and collecting them, the following hints 
 are given on the above-mentioned items in turn. 
 
 Tying Silks. The best are those known as 
 ' Pearsall's gossamer fly-tying silks.' They are 
 sold on reels in different colours, of which claret 
 and orange are stronger than any of the others, 
 the reason for this being, I fancy, that the dyes 
 used in colouring the others weaken them. 
 These silks are very fine, and should always be 
 used doubled. They are then stronger, but take 
 up less room when wound on the hook than the 
 ordinary fly-tying silk sold in the tackle-shops. 
 The beginner will probably break these pretty 
 often at first, but he should not blame them and 
 try some which are coarser : practice will soon 
 teach him how much strain the gossamer will bear. 
 
MA TERIA LS, IMPLEMENTS, E TC. 7 
 
 Tying silks should not be kept a long time, but 
 should be bought fresh and fresh, as they lose 
 their strength. 
 
 Floss Silks. Always buy these from the tackle- 
 dealers, as they are specially made and dyed for 
 the purpose ; the colours are faster. They are 
 made of two thicknesses : the finer is best for tags, 
 and for the bodies of very small flies. The 
 beginner should provide himself with several 
 shades of all colours. The skeins should be care- 
 fully opened, the silks wound on to cards, and the 
 whole wrapped up in soft paper, care being taken 
 to prevent their fraying, as they cannot then be 
 wound neatly on the hook. The hands should be 
 perfectly clean when handling them, for they are 
 very easily soiled. 
 
 Seal's fur, pigs wool, and mohair, dyed all 
 colours, are used for the bodies of flies, and can 
 be bought at any of the tackle-shops; but if the 
 beginner intends to dye his own feathers, I advise 
 him to dye these also. The undyed material is 
 sold by the ounce. Of the- three, I prefer seal's 
 fur ; the pig's wool is too coarse, and the mohair 
 too fine and limp. 
 
 Chenilles of two kinds are used, namely, silk 
 chenilles and tinselled chenilles, or frosted threads. 
 The former are made of different thicknesses, in 
 all colours, which unfortunately wash out very 
 quickly : they should therefore always be soaked 
 in alum and water, or tartaric acid and water, for 
 
8 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 some minutes. The finest only should be used. 
 The tinselled kind are very effective, but tarnish 
 quickly. Both kinds are used more for the bodies 
 of grubs than for winged flies. 
 
 Tinsels. Under this heading are the following 
 varieties : Flat tinsel, oval tinsel, thread, twist, 
 cord or lace, and embossed tinsels. All these are 
 made of gold or silver. Flat tinsel is very thin 
 sheet metal cut into strips of different widths : the 
 broader ones are used for forming bodies, the 
 narrower for ribbing bodies, but they are not so 
 strong or effective as the oval tinsels, which are 
 made up of a silk centre closely rolled over with 
 very narrow flat tinsel. They are oval in section, 
 and are made of different widths. Thread is very 
 fine wire. Twist is floss silk closely wound over 
 with the finest flat tinsel, and has the appearance 
 of a very fine thread. Cord or lace is two or 
 three threads of twist, twisted together so as to 
 form one thick strand. Embossed tinsels are flat, 
 with raised patterns, and made in different widths. 
 All tinsels should be kept on reels, wrapped up in 
 soft paper, to keep them from light and air as 
 much as possible. They are easily cleaned with 
 plate-powder if tarnished. It is most important 
 that only the best tinsels should be used. Cheap 
 tinsels tarnish and lose colour almost immediately. 
 
 Feathers. I begin with hackles, being, in my 
 opinion, the most important. These are obtained 
 from cock's necks or saddles. The following are 
 
MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 9 
 
 the kinds used. White, yellowish white, white 
 furnace, white coch-y-bonddhu, red furnace, and 
 coch-y-bonddhu of all shades; black, blue dun, blue 
 furnace, blue coch-y-bonddhu, cuckoo, and knee- 
 cap. A furnace hackle (No. 2, Fig. 5) is one with 
 black streak down the centre, and with red or 
 ginger tips; a coch-y-bonddhu hackle (No. i) is 
 one with a black streak down the centre, and black 
 tips, the remainder being red. A white furnace 
 
 Fig- 5- 
 
 has a black streak down the centre, the remainder 
 
 being white ; a white coch-y-bonddhu has black 
 streak and black tips, the remainder being white ; 
 a blue furnace has blue or grey centre, with red 
 
io HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 or ginger edges, and a blue coch-y-bonddhu has 
 blue centre and tips, with red or ginger edges. 
 Many fly-tyers make no distinction between fur- 
 nace and coch-y-bonddhu hackles ; but as the 
 feathers are entirely different, and the coch-y- 
 bonddhu's are far more effective natural or dyed 
 than the furnace, I think a difference should be 
 made. A cuckoo hackle (No. 4) has black and 
 white bars alternately and diagonally across it. 
 Knee-cap hackles (No. 3) are exactly the same 
 in colouring as the coch-y-bonddhu's, the differ- 
 ence between the two being that the one is black 
 where the other is red, and vice versa. 
 
 Hackles should be glossy and evenly tapered, 
 and the fibres should be stiff and clear from stem 
 to points. Saddle hackles are much better, in my 
 opinion, than those from the neck, since they are 
 much longer, have greater lustre, are generally 
 better shaped ; there is less list, and the centre 
 rib is much finer, though quite as strong. It is 
 very difficult to obtain really good hackles, the 
 reason being that birds are killed long before 
 they are old enough for our purpose. Feathers 
 are not of much use from a bird under eighteen 
 months old, and only then if it is healthy and in 
 full plumage. They are best, I think, when taken 
 from a bird four years old ; of course it is an 
 advantage to keep birds of the right colour, so 
 that you can obtain feathers at the right time. 
 
 I strongly advise the amateur, who has the time 
 
MA TE RIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC, 1 1 
 
 to spare, to dye his hackles. It is not only an 
 amusement, but a great saving of expense, since 
 dyed hackles are sold in the tackle-shops at three- 
 pence and fourpence a dozen ; and if the reader 
 follows my directions for dyeing, given in the next 
 chapter, he will find his hackles just as good, and 
 they will cost him a good deal less. 
 
 Besides hackles, feathers from the following 
 birds are extensively used : Golden pheasant, 
 blue and yellow macaw, scarlet macaw, blue and 
 red macaw, toucan, Indian crow, jungle cock, 
 green parrot, chatterer, bustard, florican, guinea- 
 fowl, mallard, teal, pintail, widgeon, summer duck, 
 jay, scarlet ibis, turkey, swan, peacock and ostrich. 
 Feathers from a great many other birds are used, 
 in fact, their name is legion ; but with those 
 mentioned any of the ordinary standard patterns 
 can be tied. 
 
 The Golden Pheasant's head and neck supply 
 us with gold toppings or crests, used for tails and 
 wings. Round the back of the neck or ruff are 
 the ' tippet ' feathers, used whole in wings or in 
 strands or strips for wings and tails, and occasion- 
 ally as hackles. The red breast feathers are used 
 for hackles ; the centre tail feathers for wings, 
 and the bright red ' spear ' or saddle feathers in 
 strands or whole in wings. All these are sold 
 separately. The fly-tyer should have an assort- 
 ment of all sizes of toppings and tippets. The 
 deeper in colour they are the better. The top- 
 
12 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 pings should be kept in boxes, lying on their 
 sides, or they will soon lose their shape. 
 
 The blue and yellow, scarlet, and blue and 
 red Macaw s tail feathers are the best for making 
 the 'horns' of salmon flies with. The former 
 (Ara ararauna] is a native of Guiana. Its tail 
 feathers are blue ; the whole of the breast, 
 flanks, and throat are brilliant yellow ; useful for 
 hackles and wings. The back is covered with 
 blue feathers, good as hackles. On the wings are 
 darker blue feathers, used whole for wings. 
 
 The scarlet, and blue and red macaws are 
 much alike in general colouring. They are 
 natives of Guiana and the West Indies. The tail 
 of the * scarlet ' is red ; that of the ' blue and red' 
 is dark red. The heads and breasts of both are 
 red, these feathers being very good as hackles. 
 Along the back are light blue feathers ; those 
 from the blue and red being lighter in colour, 
 and called 'powdered blue' feathers. Strands of 
 the larger feathers that grow over the tail are 
 frequently used in wings. On the back of the 
 scarlet macaw are orange feathers ; these are 
 occasionally used whole in wings. With the ex- 
 ception of the tail feathers of the blue and yellow, 
 and of the scarlet macaw, and the powdered blue 
 feathers from the blue and red, none of the above- 
 mentioned feathers are actually necessary ; skins 
 of these birds are expensive, but natural hackles, 
 on the other hand, are, I think, far superior to 
 dyed ones. 
 
MA TERIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 1 3 
 
 The Toucan (Ramphastos arid] is a common 
 bird in the West Indies and Guiana. Its orange, 
 canary-coloured, and dark red feathers from the 
 breast, and the dark red over and under the tail, 
 are used either as hackles, for small flies, or whole 
 in jointed bodies as the orange in ' Jock Scott.' 
 Skins can be bought at the tackle-shops. 
 
 The Red Breasted Crow (Pyroderus Grana- 
 densis], from New Granada, known to fly- makers 
 as the ' Indian crow,' supplies us with brilliant 
 scarlet feathers, used whole in wings, tails, and 
 jointed bodies ; these feathers are on the breast 
 of the bird only. The remainder is black. The 
 feathers on the back of the neck are used whole in 
 jointed bodies. Skins are sold in the tackle-shops. 
 
 The Jungle Cock (Gallus Sonneratii) is a 
 common bird in India. The neck feathers, which 
 are spotted black and white, are used whole in 
 wings, tails, and jointed bodies. The more black 
 and white the feathers are the better. Those 
 with sandy-coloured spots, instead of white ones, 
 are inferior. Necks sold in the tackle-shops. 
 
 The Green or Amazon Parrots, inhabitants of 
 the banks of the Amazon, supply us with green 
 and golden yellow feathers (tail) used in wings, 
 either in strips or strands. Another bird that 
 has green feathers useful for hackles is the green 
 or soldier macaw (Ara militaris), but they are 
 not often used, because difficult to obtain. 
 
 Chatterers feathers, of two species, are largely 
 
i 4 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 used. The purple-breasted chatterer (Cotinga 
 c<zrulea\ a native of British Guiana, has medium 
 blue feathers on the head and back, which are 
 used as ' cheeks,' or in tails and for jointed bodies ; 
 the largest feathers being occasionally used as 
 hackles. The light-blue chatterer (Cotinga Cay- 
 ana) a native of Cayenne, has also blue feathers, 
 much lighter in shade ; they are used in the same 
 places as the last. The throat of this bird is 
 purple. Kingfisher's feathers are frequently sub- 
 stituted for light-blue chatterers ; but this is a 
 mistake, as they lose their colour after a short 
 immersion in water. Skins of both kinds of 
 chatterer are sold at the tackle-shops. 
 
 Bustard. There are several varieties of this 
 bird. The feathers from the Asiatic are perhaps 
 the best, being more distinctly marked. Strips 
 and strands from all the larger feathers are used 
 for wings ; some of the smaller feathers are occa- 
 sionally used for hackles. The feathers of these 
 birds lose their colour, fade quickly, and become 
 brittle with age, so should be obtained as fresh as 
 possible. The FLorican (Sypheotides Bengalensis] 
 is much the same in colour, and the same remarks 
 apply. Single feathers are sold at the tackle- 
 shops. 
 
 Guineafowl or Gallina. Back and breast 
 feathers are excellent as hackles, and strands or 
 strips of the tail feathers for wings. Those with 
 black ground and round white spots dye all colours 
 
MA TE RIALS, IMPLEMENTS, E TC. 1 5 
 
 very well. There are white guineafowl feathers ; 
 they dye very well, but are not often used. 
 
 Mallard. On the sides of the body under the 
 wings of the wild duck are found the brown 
 mottled feathers called ' Brown Mallard,' which 
 are used in wings probably more than any other 
 feather. Select those in which the brown part 
 extends down to the shaft, or nearly so. The older 
 the bird the better. The grey mottled feathers 
 called * Grey Mallard/ found on the breast and 
 flanks, are also used in strips and strands for wings 
 and tails. The brown feathers are occasionally 
 found on tame ducks. 
 
 The Teal, Pintail, and Widgeon provide mottled 
 or barred black and white feathers, all something 
 alike, although those of the teal are more distinctly 
 marked than the others, and show best in wings. 
 The feathers of all three are used as hackles, and 
 dye very well. Feathers should only be taken from 
 these birds during the first three months of the 
 year. They are sold by the dozen in tackle- 
 shops. 
 
 The Slimmer or Wood Duck (Aix sponsa) is 
 found in Canada. The black and white barred 
 feathers found on the flanks under the wings, and 
 the unbarred breast feathers, are used in wings 
 and tails. The Mandarin Duck, from China, has 
 similarly marked and coloured feathers. 
 
 Jay. The blue-barred wing feathers of this 
 English bird are used as hackles, and occasionally 
 
16 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 those with blue on both sides of the shaft whole 
 in wings. Select feathers from old birds only, in 
 which the bars are most distinct. These feathers 
 should be obtained as fresh as possible, otherwise 
 they lose their brilliancy in the water. Wings 
 sold. 
 
 Strands of the Scarlet Ibis wing feathers are 
 used in wings. The hackles are useless, as they 
 are too limp, and have no life in the water. 
 
 Turkeys tail feathers are very useful for wings. 
 There are a great many varieties, all useful ; but 
 the two which are more generally used are the 
 brown, with black bar and white tip, and the grey, 
 with black bar and white tip. Feathers from old 
 birds only should be used, as those from young 
 ones are too limp. The feathers under the tail are 
 best for small flies. Feathers sold by the dozen. 
 
 Swan. Strands or strips of the feathers of this 
 bird, when dyed, are very useful for wings. They 
 dye all colours well. 
 
 Peacocks tail feathers, both the ' sword ' and 
 ' eyed,' are much used for butts, heads, and wings. 
 The green breast feathers are sometimes used as 
 hackles. Strips and strands of the speckled wing 
 feathers are very useful for wings. The tail 
 feathers should always be fresh, as they become 
 brittle with age. 
 
 Ostrich Feathers dye all colours well, and pro- 
 vide material for the butts of nearly all salmon 
 flies. 
 
MA TE RIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 17 
 
 A great many kinds of the feathers mentioned 
 can be obtained for next to nothing at the 
 poulterers' shops, such as mallard, teal, widgeon, 
 guineafowl, turkey, and hackles. This means 
 a great saving of expense ; for mallard, teal, 
 widgeon, and guineafowl cost 3d. to 6d. per dozen 
 in the tackle-shops ; turkey feathers 2d. each, and 
 undyed hackles 2d. per. dozen. Very often skins 
 of foreign birds, suitable for flies, can be bought 
 at naturalists' shops for much less than the prices 
 asked at the tackle-shops. I have in most cases 
 given the names of the countries in which the 
 birds are found, so that any of my readers who 
 have friends in those countries can possibly get 
 skins sent to them ; for skins that can be bought 
 for next to nothing in their own countries cost 
 a good deal in England. When buying a 
 skin, select the one the feathers of which have 
 the least quantity of fluff at the roots, are 
 the most glossy, and have the richest and deepest 
 hues, and in which the colour extends furthest 
 to the roots. There is the greatest difference 
 between feathers of old and young, moulting 
 and fully feathered, healthy and unhealthy birds. 
 See, too, that there is no sign of moth ; a feather 
 with the points of the fibres eaten away is 
 useless. Some feathers lose their colour after 
 being a short time in the water, regaining it when 
 dry. The kingfisher and blue jay (Indian) 
 especially, the green parrot, blue macaw, and 
 
1 8 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 English jay all turn colour slightly. The more 
 recently feathers are taken from the latter bird 
 the less likely they are to turn. Many feathers, 
 dyed or natural, lose their colour when exposed 
 to the light. In fact, sun is the enemy of dyed 
 or natural feathers, fur, etc. ; for this reason, 
 flies should never be left exposed in the hat. 
 Feathers should be kept in boxes, in which there 
 is plenty of naphthaline crystal or albo-carbon. 
 There is no necessity for the box to be air-tight 
 (although, of course, it is preferable, to keep away 
 dust) ; no moth will ever come near the crystal ; 
 at least such is my experience. This crystal can 
 be obtained from naturalists or chemists. It 
 should be renewed from time to time, as it evapor- 
 ates. If moth is actually in any feathers or skins, 
 they should be immersed in benzoline for a few 
 minutes, and before they are put away should be 
 thoroughly dried in the open air. If feathers 
 of any kind, coarse or fine fibred, have lost their 
 shape, hold them in the steam of a boiling kettle 
 (the larger and stronger the jet the better) for a 
 minute or two, and carefully smooth the fibres 
 into their places. If you take a large feather, 
 say a golden pheasant's tail feather, and crunch 
 it up in your hand, and then steam it, it will come 
 out as if just taken from the bird. Feathers, too, 
 if dirty, can be washed in soap and boiling water, 
 and steamed afterwards. 
 
 Scissors. I advise the fly-tyer to have two 
 
MA TERIA LS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 19 
 
 pairs of embroidery scissors, one of which should 
 have the points ground as fine, flat, and sharp as 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 possible : this pair is for cutting off feathers and 
 silks closely ; the other pair should be kept for 
 cutting tinsels, gut, etc. 
 
 Hackle Pliers. Of these, also, I advise the 
 fly-tyer to have two pair one light and one 
 heavier, as shown. The reason for this will 
 appear later on, when we come to the chapters 
 on tying. These pliers can very easily be made 
 at home with a file from a piece of brass wire, 
 care being taken that the whole of the nipping 
 part will grasp anything placed in it. 
 
 Picker. The best for this is a stiletto, as used 
 for embroidery, and as shown. It should not be 
 very sharp, or silk, etc., will be liable to be cut. 
 
 Cobblers wax is the best for fly- tying. It 
 should be obtained fresh frequently, for it rapidly 
 loses its strength, and then clogs on the silk. It 
 
20 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 is nasty stuff to handle, until practice has taught 
 you when to let go of it. Keep it in water. 
 
 Varnish. The best receipt I know of for 
 making this is as follows : Half fill a bottl^ 
 with orange shellac ; then fill up the bottle with 
 spirits of wine, then put in a small piece of white 
 resin, about the size of a nut to a 3 oz. bottle ; 
 cork the bottle, and leave it until the shellac and 
 resin are dissolved. This varnish dries quickly, 
 and will not chip or turn white. Should it at 
 any time be too thick, add a little more spirit, 
 and shake well. To apply the varnish use a 
 porcupine quill, or piece of wood. It is liable to 
 ' run ' from a brush and spoil silk, feathers, etc. 
 
 A Vice is not necessary, but the use of one 
 afford many advantages : the work can be kept 
 cleaner ; no part of the fly need be crushed ; both 
 hands are free, and I find I can work more ac- 
 curately with one. There is generally a hook 
 attached to the pillar of the vice. The object 
 of this is to enable you to hook the silk on to it 
 when waxing. It is cheaper in the end to buy 
 a good vice and pay a little more for it, than to 
 get a cheap one which will wear out quickly. 
 
 Methylated Spirit. Always have a bottle of 
 this and a rag near you when fly-making. The 
 fingers can be cleaned of wax, etc., in a moment, 
 by pouring a few drops on to the rag and rubbing 
 them. Let me here impress on the beginner the 
 importance of keeping his fingers clean and free 
 
MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 21 
 
 from wax while fly-tying. It is impossible to tie 
 a good fly with waxy fingers, and you cannot get 
 wax off a floss silk body. 
 
 Gut. If you are going to tie your flies on 
 hooks with gut loops, have a good selection of 
 the best salmon gut, light, medium, and thick. 
 It should be kept from light and air as much 
 as possible. A bag made of wash leather is 
 perhaps the best thing to keep it in. 
 
 DEFINITIONS. 
 
 As the beginner will probably be puzzled to 
 know the meaning of terms used and the differ- 
 ent feathers spoken of in the descriptions of dress- 
 ing of flies, an illustration is given showing the 
 names of the different parts. The following will 
 also be useful : A * Topping or Crest ' means the 
 feather from the head of the golden pheasant ; 
 ' tippet feather ' means the feather from the 
 throat of the same bird, and when written so, 
 means that a whole feather is used. ' Strands 
 of tippet ' means a few fibres only of the same ; 
 ' Toucan ' means a whole feather from the breast 
 of that bird. ' Canary Toucan/ a whole canary- 
 coloured feather from the same bird. ' Indian 
 Crow ' means a whole red feather from the breast 
 of that bird. ' Chatterer' means a whole feather 
 from the back or breast ; ' Jungle Cock,' a whole 
 feather from the neck ; * Mallard ' means the 
 dark brown mottled flank feather; 'Grey Mallard,' 
 
22 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 the speckled grey feathers on the breast and 
 flanks ; ' Summer or Wood Duck,' means the 
 black and white barred feather from the flanks ; 
 ' Gallina, or Guineafowl,' means the speckled 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 grey and white feathers ; ' single spotted' Guinea- 
 fowl refers to the dark feathers with white spots 
 and no speckle. 
 
 NAMES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF FLY 
 
 1. The Tag. 
 
 2. The Butt. 
 
 3. The Tail. 
 
 4. Joint. 
 
 5. Hackle. 
 
 6. Shoulder Hackle. 
 
 7. Wings. 
 
 8. Topping over. 
 
 9. Horns. 
 
 10. Cheeks. 
 
 11. Head. 
 
 12. Gut Loop, or Metal Eye. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 ON DYEING FURS AND FEATHERS. 
 
 HE materials required are few in 
 number. They are, a large kettle, 
 several glass stirring rods, several 
 small common basins, some carbonate 
 of potash, powdered alum, common yellow soap, 
 soda, sulphuric acid, vinegar, and the dyes. 
 
 There are several varieties of dyes to choose 
 from, such as Aniline, Crawshaw's, Judson's, and 
 the diamond dyes. They are all equally good, but 
 the shade, say of blue, made by one manufacturer, 
 differs from the shade of blue made by another. 
 It is only by trial, therefore, that the reader can 
 satisfy himself which shades will best answer his 
 purpose. 
 
 The preliminary treatment for all kinds of 
 feathers and furs is the same. They must be 
 thoroughly cleaned, and their natural grease ex- 
 tracted. If this is not done, the colour will not be 
 taken thoroughly into them, but will be super- 
 ficial, and in most cases will not strike at all. 
 
 How to Clean Feathers and Fur. There are 
 several ways of doing this. The first is by washing 
 
24 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 with soap. Having selected the feathers, strip off 
 all the downy fluff that will not be wanted for the 
 fly. Many tie them up in bunches : it is a matter 
 of choice, though. Place the feathers or fur in a 
 basin ; then cut up, and put into it a piece of 
 yellow soap, about the size of a nut for a quart 
 of water. Pour boiling water into the basin, and 
 stir well with a glass rod until all the soap has dis- 
 solved. After a few minutes the feathers or fur 
 can be taken out and placed in clean cold water, 
 and well washed in it. Common washing soda 
 can be used instead of soap, but a very little of 
 it will suffice ; if you use too much the feathers 
 will be burnt. 
 
 Another way is to use carbonate of potash ; 
 about a teaspoonful to a quart of water is quite 
 enough ; but the feathers or fur in this case 
 should be left in for at least twelve hours, and 
 afterwards washed in clean cold water. 
 
 Another way is to use alum, about one ounce 
 to a quart of water ; the feathers or fur should 
 be left in for some hours. This is a good fixing 
 bath. 
 
 The next process is to place the feathers or 
 fur in a fixing bath ; alum dissolved in boiling 
 water is as good as any, about one ounce to a 
 quart of water. Of course this process will be un- 
 necessary if you adopt the last-mentioned method 
 of cleaning the feathers and fur. A quarter of 
 an hour will suffice, when the feathers or fur 
 
ON DYEING FURS AND FEATHERS. 25 
 
 should be again washed in clean cold water, 
 unless you are going to dye them blue. 
 
 To dye the feathers or fur, put a small quantity 
 of the dye into a basin. It is impossible to state 
 the exact quantity, but it is better to err on the 
 safe side, so put in at first a few grains only ; 
 more can be added afterwards if necessary. Now 
 pour boiling water over the dye, stir until dis- 
 solved, add the feathers or fur, and keep up the 
 heat by placing the bowl in a saucepan containing 
 water, on the fire, for a few minutes, stirring 
 continually. 
 
 A small pair of scales, which will weigh grains 
 and half grains, is very useful for measuring out 
 the dyes. A record should be kept of the exact 
 quantity used, both of water and dye, and the 
 same written on the packet in which the feathers 
 are afterwards kept, so that at any time the same 
 shade can be obtained without any trouble. Ne- 
 glect of this means endless waste of time and 
 materials. Some colours, blues and reds espe- 
 cially, strike better if a little acid is added to the 
 dye bath. I use vinegar, or sulphuric acid, about 
 a teaspoonful to a quart of water. It should be 
 added after the feathers have been in the dye bath 
 a few minutes ; stir well while you add it. When 
 thoroughly dyed, take out the feathers or fur and 
 wash them in hot alum and water, or toilet-soap 
 and water. Finally, rinse in cold water. 
 
 Many people boil or simmer their feathers, etc., 
 
26 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 over the fire, or a spirit lamp, during each process 
 of cleaning, fixing, and dyeing. It is not necessary, 
 except in one or two cases, and without great 
 care feathers are liable to be burnt. The dyes, 
 too, will not last longer for boiling. Sulphuric 
 acid must be used for blues. Great care, 
 though, is necessary, as it will burn anything 
 with which it comes in contact. Should any 
 get on to the hands or clothes, apply ammonia, 
 not water. When using it proceed as follows : 
 Pour a teaspoonful into an empty basin, then 
 pour in half a tumblerful of cold water. The 
 acid will heat the water. Next pour in some 
 boiling water, in which dye has already been 
 dissolved, put the feathers in, and proceed as 
 before. When pouring the cold water over 
 the acid, do not stand over the basin. 
 
 To dry feathers, take them out of the cold 
 water one by one, and place them on a plate before 
 the fire not too close, though, for they scorch 
 easily. Several shades and varieties of colour 
 can be obtained by dyeing (in the same bath) the 
 following kinds of hackles : white, white furnace, 
 and coch-y-bonddhu ; red furnace and coch-y- 
 bonddhu, and black. They all take the dye well. 
 Put in also guineafowl's feathers, teal, turkey, 
 swan, tippet feathers, etc. They are sure to 
 come in useful. Blue is the only colour that 
 must have a white ground that is, if you want 
 a pure blue ; for, supposing that you dyed a 
 
ON DYEING FURS AND FEATHERS. 27 
 
 yellowish hackle blue, the feather would have a 
 green tinge when held up to the light. 
 
 The colour of a hackle can only be judged cor- 
 rectly when held up to the light, in such a position 
 that the colour can be seen through the fibres. 
 If you look down on, say, a black hackle, it would 
 be impossible to tell whether it was dyed or not. 
 The only colour which I believe cannot be ob- 
 tained from any of the kinds of dyes mentioned 
 at the commencement of the chapter is a golden 
 olive. To obtain it, boil an ounce of turmeric in 
 a quart of water for a quarter of an hour, strain 
 off the liquid, and dye the feathers in it. The tur- 
 meric must be fresh. It can be obtained from 
 chemists. 
 
 Many other colours can be obtained by dyeing 
 feathers and fur, first one colour, then another, or 
 by mixing two or more colours together. 
 
 To kill or sadden any colour, place the feathers 
 after they are dyed in hot water in which copperas 
 has been dissolved. A piece the size of a hazel 
 nut in a quart of water will be sufficient ; but you 
 must watch the feathers, and immediately they 
 have obtained the shade required, wash them 
 well in clean cold water. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS AND TAILS. 
 
 N order that his flies, when made, may 
 be efficient, and not objects to look at 
 merely, the beginner is strongly ad- 
 vised not to be in too great a hurry 
 to see what he can do, but to begin methodically, 
 slowly, and carefully, and try to master each part 
 or process before going on to the next. In the 
 following pages I have endeavoured to write 
 down every little detail that is likely to assist the 
 beginner. However trivial they may appear at 
 first sight, I venture to hope that, by follow- 
 ing them closely, he will find each one will give 
 him a fraction of assistance towards overcoming 
 his difficulties. The general rules to be borne 
 in mind throughout the tying of a fly are as 
 follows : The tag should taper slightly towards 
 the head ; the tail should be perfectly straight 
 with the body, which should taper from tail to 
 shoulder; the hackle should be tightly wound, 
 the wings perfectly straight on top of the hook, 
 even, and firmly tied ; the head firm, small, and 
 tapering ; and when the fly is finished, at no part 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 29 
 
 should the tying silk be visible, except the 
 head. If most of these details were not attended 
 to, in all probability the fly would not swim 
 straight in the water, and a salmon fly that 
 1 wobbles' or swims crookedly is useless. 
 
 Now, the first thing to do is to lay out on a 
 table (which should be placed in a good light) 
 everything that will be required, except the 
 feathers for the wings, which can be left for the 
 present. Fix the vice firmly to the right-hand 
 corner of the table, and secure the bend of the 
 hook in it shank to the right, barb downwards. 
 Learn to tie on a good-sized hook, not smaller 
 than a No. 2/0. You will find it easier than if 
 you began on a smaller one say a No. 3 or 4. 
 We will begin with an ordinary hook, to which 
 a gut loop must be attached. Take a piece of 
 gossamer silk about two feet long, double it, 
 place it so doubled over the hook attached to 
 the pillar of the vice, holding the four strands in 
 your left hand, and rub some cobbler's wax along 
 it a few times above and below. Take the silk 
 off the hook, pass it once or twice between finger 
 and thumb to get the twist out. Next, select 
 three strands of good sound gut (which should 
 have been previously well soaked in water), twist 
 these tightly and evenly together for about two 
 inches, double this treble piece so as to form a 
 loop. If the gut has been properly soaked, the 
 strands will not untwist when laid down. Hold- 
 
HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 ing the six ends together, with a sharp knife or 
 pair of scissors cut them so as to form a taper, 
 each strand being of different length ; but the 
 longest should nearly reach to a spot above the 
 point of the hook when the loop is placed in 
 position under the shank, the loop projecting 
 about one-fifth of an inch beyond the hook to the 
 right. Some fly-makers use two strands of gut 
 only, doubled but not twisted. The ends should 
 be tapered in the same way. For very small 
 flies, single salmon gut only should be used, 
 the stouter and stronger the better, the ends 
 being tapered as before. The method of tying 
 them on is the same for all, and is as follows : 
 Holding one end of the doubled tying silk be- 
 tween forefinger and thumb of the left hand, close 
 to the hook (the right hand holding the silk eight 
 or nine inches higher up), and commencing about 
 one-third of an inch from the end of the shank, 
 wind four or five spiral turns of the silk tightly 
 
 round the bare hook 
 towards the head; take 
 care not to go within 
 one-eighth of an inch 
 of the end of the shank, 
 which must be left bare 
 Fig 8. until the wings are tied 
 
 on. Cut off the short 
 
 end held in the left hand (the wax prevents the 
 coils from untwisting). Now pick up the gut loop, 
 
Fig. 9. 
 
 GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 31 
 
 and placing it under the shank, hold it there be- 
 tween the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, 
 while you wind the tying silk closely and tightly 
 round both hook and gut, towards the bend of the 
 hook. Be very careful to 
 keep the gut straight under 
 the hook, and do not let the 
 silk twist, or one coil ride 
 over another. The more 
 evenly this is done the 
 more easy will it be to 
 form the body correctly 
 afterwards. Wind on un- 
 til all the gut is covered, 
 then pressing the fore- 
 finger of the left hand against the last coil of silk, 
 on the far side of the hook (to prevent it getting 
 loose), form a half hitch as shown, pull it tight, and 
 cut off the end close. With the nails of the fore- 
 finger and thumb of left hand, pinch the 
 gut tightly at the head, while you push 
 the stilletto up through the loop from 
 below, to shape it as shown. Now var- 
 nish all the tying lightly. If all has been 
 correctly done, the fastening will be per- 
 fectly smooth and evenly tapered, and 
 the loop will appear as shown. 
 With eyed hooks gut is of course unnecessary, 
 but to prevent the work slipping it is advisable 
 to wind a smooth, tight layer of the doubled tying 
 
32 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 silk up the shank, commencing, though, close to 
 the eye, but finishing off as for the gut loop. 
 With very small flies there is no need to finish 
 off the silk ; one piece will be sufficient for the 
 whole fly, and can be carried on without any half 
 hitch ; the layer of silk should be varnished. It 
 is of the greatest importance that the silk during 
 these operations, and throughout the whole pro- 
 cess of making the fly, should be kept tight. 
 
 If a vice is not used, the hook must be held in 
 all cases between the forefinger and thumb of the 
 left hand, pressing the middle finger against the 
 hook to prevent the silk unwinding or becoming 
 loose, while you finish off. 
 
 TAGS. 
 
 Nearly all salmon flies have what is called a 
 ' tag.' It is usually formed with gold or silver twist 
 or wire and floss silk or fur, or twist or wire only. 
 We will begin with the first mentioned. In this 
 case the twist should commence at a spot imme- 
 diately above the point of the barb. Take a fresh 
 piece of tying silk, doubled and waxed as before, 
 and, commencing close to where you left off tying 
 on the gut, wind a turn of the tying silk (the short 
 end of which should be to the left) round the bare 
 hook, tying down at the same time the short end. 
 After three or four more turns cut off the short 
 end close, and wind on another turn or two. Now 
 take the heavy pair of pliers, attach them to the 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 33 
 
 tying silk, a few inches below the hook, and leave 
 them hanging, they will prevent the silk untwist- 
 ing, and keep it tight. This is a very useful plan 
 when tying on eyed hooks, as the fly can be left 
 at any stage without fear of any part becoming 
 
 Fig. ii. 
 
 loose ; of course the heavier the pliers are in 
 reason, the better. When tying' flies on hooks 
 with gut loops, fly-tyers generally wedge the silk 
 between the hook shank and gut loop. I don't 
 like this method, as it tends to loosen and displace 
 the tying silk there, especially if done several 
 times. Another way is to wind on a few turns of 
 tying silk roughly, and then a few turns back over 
 them. 
 
 Take a piece of gold or silver twist, about three 
 inches long : holding it tightly between the nails 
 of the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, so 
 that about one-eighth of an inch is projecting to 
 the right, pull off with the nails of right hand the 
 twist, from the projecting end, when the inside 
 silk or core will be exposed. With the thumb of 
 the left hand hold the twist against the side of 
 
34 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 the hook (the exposed core to the right) so that 
 the commencement of the twist is exactly above 
 
 Fi?. 12. 
 
 the point of the barb ; wind the tying silk over the 
 exposed core closely, tightly, and evenly until you 
 reach the twist, then wind back four or five turns 
 evenly as before, and leave the pliers hanging to 
 the silk. Next take hold of the twist between the 
 forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and wind 
 three or four tight close turns, the first coil being 
 round the bare hook, the remainder over the coils 
 of tying silk ; then, still keeping the twist tightly 
 pulled towards you, take one turn of the tying 
 silk over it : let go of the twist, cut it off about 
 
 Fig. 13- 
 one-eighth of an inch from the hook (keeping the 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 35 
 
 tying silk tight though), and with the nails remove 
 the twist as before, leaving the core exposed ; take 
 two or three more turns of the tying silk, and let 
 go of the pliers. 
 
 Now, take five or six inches of fine floss silk, 
 smooth it carefully between thumb and forefinger, 
 so as to get any twist out. The fingers must be 
 perfectly clean and free from wax, so don't forget 
 the methylated spirit. Place the floss against the 
 side of the hook, diagonally as shown, and wind 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 three or four turns of the tying silk over it, the 
 coils being close, even, and to the right of the last 
 coils. Cut off the end of the floss closely. If the 
 floss was not tied in diagonally, there would be a 
 ridge there. The floss must now be wound to 
 the left as far as the twist, then start back again 
 to the right. There should be a slight taper from 
 the twist, so you must wind the coils closer as 
 you go. The floss should nearly reach to a spot 
 
36 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 above the point of the hook. The great secret 
 in winding the floss is to keep it flat, and not 
 
 Fig. 15- 
 
 allow it to twist ; so after each turn, pass the fore- 
 finger and thumb down it. 
 
 Fasten off the floss under the hook with one 
 or two turns of the tying silk, cut off the end 
 closely, varnish the two turns of tying silk, taking 
 care that none runs on to the floss : the tag is 
 now complete. 
 
 In some flies, instead of floss silk, seal's fur, pig's 
 wool, or mohair is used ; after winding on and 
 fastening off the twist, wax the tying silk well, 
 
 Fig. 1 6. 
 
 take a small quantity of fur between the fore- 
 finger and thumb of the right hand, holding the 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 37 
 
 tying silk taut with the left hand, twist the fur on 
 to the tying silk, and keep on twisting until the 
 fur is thoroughly round the silk and conceals it. 
 Now wind it straight round the hook. The be- 
 ginner generally twists on too much fur a very 
 little will suffice, as shown. As soon as you have 
 wound far enough, pull off with the nails any 
 excess there may be, wax the silk again, and take 
 one turn. 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 Be careful that no tying silk shows between the 
 twist and floss or fur, before you go further, as it 
 is unsightly. 
 
 When there is to be twist only for the tag, the 
 first coil should begin at a point immediately 
 above the root of the barb, but end in the same 
 place as floss or fur. 
 
 If the tag is to be ribbed with twist, the latter 
 should be tied in (stripped at one end as before) 
 with the floss. The floss is then wound on, 
 finished off, and then the ribbing twist is wound 
 on and finished off. 
 
HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 TAILS. 
 
 The feather used for this part of the fly, more 
 than any other, is the topping from the golden 
 pheasant's head, so we will begin with that. Be- 
 ginners will find it rather a troublesome feather 
 to tie in correctly, i.e. on the top of the hook and 
 the shaft in a direct line with the shank, and not 
 leaning over to one side. Select a feather suit- 
 able to the size of the hook, and pull off all the 
 fluffy fibres. An examination will show that the 
 centre rib of the outside of the feather is curved, 
 and of the inside, pointed. Consequently, when 
 placed on the hook, and the silk wound round, 
 the latter pulls the feather over to one side. To 
 obviate this, the quill must either be held inclining 
 
 Fig. 1 8. 
 
 towards you whilst being tied on, or the shaft 
 must be flattened where the silk will pass. I 
 recommend the latter. The way to hold the 
 feather is shown in the illustration. The thumb 
 nail should be pressed tightly on to the quill, 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 39 
 
 close up to the fibres, while the feather is drawn 
 to the left, with the left hand. Take great care, 
 though, that the feather does not incline to one 
 side. To tie it on hold it between the forefinger 
 and thumb of the left hand on top of the hook, 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 while you wind two turns of the tying silk round, 
 the first turn being close up to the fibres, but not 
 over them. Cut off the projecting end quite 
 close, wind one more turn of the tying silk, 
 then varnish. 
 
 If the fly is to have two toppings, they should 
 be placed side by side and tied on together. The 
 same number of turns of tying silk will be suffi- 
 cient. Another kind of tail is composed of fibres 
 or strips of different feathers, curved upwards like 
 a topping ; but before describing how to tie them 
 on, I must direct the reader's attention to a few 
 important facts about feathers, on the knowledge 
 and application of which neat work greatly 
 
40 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 depends. If you look at a feather, you will see 
 that the fibres on both sides of the shaft curve 
 naturally towards the point of the feather. As an 
 example, take the two mallard feathers shown ; the 
 
 r 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 curve is more denned in these feathers (which 
 are taken from the flanks) than in others, although 
 it is there more or less in all feathers. 
 
 The feather on the right of the illustration is 
 taken from the right side of the bird, the other 
 from the left. Now, when using strips or strands 
 for wings or tails, the fly-tyer must always be 
 careful to put them on their proper side of the 
 hook. As an illustration of this, suppose that you 
 want to tie on a tail consisting of strips of summer 
 duck, curved up like a topping, cut off a narrow 
 strip from a right side feather and from a left, 
 place them back to back, the one exactly covering 
 the other, the best side of both outwards. They 
 will coincide, which is what they should do. 
 Suppose, now, that instead of taking a right and 
 left strip, you had taken two rights or two lefts, 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 41 
 
 placed them back to back, best sides outwards as 
 before, then one would turn up and the other 
 down, so that symmetry would be lost. 
 
 Another fact, a very useful one too ; the edges 
 of every fibre in a feather are covered with fluff, 
 by means of which single fibres or strips of 
 different feathers can be united, so as to form one 
 broad strip, but you can only unite a * right ' to a 
 
 * right ' and a * left ' to a ' left.' The curves of the 
 fibres going in opposite directions prevent a 
 1 right ' and ' left ' uniting. 
 
 Take a strip, say, of bustard and of swan, both 
 ' right ' ; hold both by the butts between the fore- 
 finger and thumb of the right hand, one above the 
 other, best side of both towards you ; pass the 
 left thumb and forefinger along them, from right 
 to left, two or three times ; you will find that the 
 two strips will unite, forming one broad strip. 
 
 One more useful fact is, that the centre shafts 
 of all feathers curve more or less in exactly the 
 same way as fibres do. There are *' rights ' and 
 
 * lefts ' ; and whenever whole feathers are tied in 
 for tails, or wings, these feathers must be placed 
 on their proper side of the hook. For example, 
 take a ' right ' and * left ' blue chatterer 
 feather, both the same size, one from 
 
 the right shoulder of a bird, the other 
 
 from the left shoulder. Strip off all 
 
 the fluff; place them back to back, i.e. Fig. 21. 
 
 the best side of both outwards. They will then 
 
42 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 coincide, because the curves of both feathers are 
 in the same direction, whereas if you placed a 
 ' right ' and a ' left ' back to back, one would curve 
 up and the other down. 
 
 We will now proceed with the directions for 
 tying on tails. In addition to a topping, some 
 flies have small whole feathers of chatterer, Indian 
 crow, or jungle cock, tied in upright back to back, 
 or one tied in flat. As an example, select a ' right' 
 and * left ' chatterer, strip off all the fluff, place 
 them back to back. Hold them so, vertically, 
 between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, 
 with the stems projecting beyond the thumb and 
 finger to the right With the thumb of the right 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 hand make a dent in the two shafts in exactly the 
 same way that you did the topping. Still hold- 
 ing them between the thumb and forefinger of 
 the left hand, place them on top of the hook, over 
 the topping, separate the two stems slightly so 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 43 
 
 that they will lie one on each side of the stem of 
 the topping, and wind two turns of the tying silk 
 over those turns which tied in the topping. 
 Cut off the shafts close, take one more turn of 
 silk, and varnish. 
 
 When a whole feather (such as Indian crow) is 
 to be tied on flat, the dent in the shaft is made in 
 the same manner ; but the feather is held in a 
 horizontal instead of a vertical position. It should 
 be tied on over the stem of the topping. 
 
 In tying on a tail composed of strips and 
 strands, the method of holding the feathers is 
 different. We will suppose that you want to tie 
 on a tail composed of strips of summer duck and 
 of yellow macaw. Cut off a ' right' and * left' strip 
 
 Fig- 23. 
 
 (three or four strands only) of each. Unite the 
 1 right ' summer duck and ' right ' macaw ; do the 
 same with the two lefts ; place them back to back. 
 Hold them on the top of the hook in the position 
 
44 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 shown in fig. 23 (the finger and thumb are 
 grasping the hook and feather at the same time) ; 
 take hold of the tying silk, and, keeping it tight, 
 just move the thumb sufficiently to admit the silk 
 to pass upwards between it and the hook ; then 
 close it to the hook again, wind on, move the 
 forefinger momentarily to let the silk pass down 
 between it and the hook ; then squeeze the thumb 
 and finger gently to the hook, while you pull the 
 tying silk down tight. Repeat this once more, 
 remove the left hand, and if correctly done, the 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 fibres will appear as shown, straight on the top of 
 the hook. Cut the stumps off as close as pos- 
 sible, holding the scissors along the hook shank, 
 not across it ; now, wind one more turn of the 
 tying silk, and varnish. 
 
 Instead of strips of two feathers, single strands 
 from any number of different feathers can be tied 
 on in the same way ; always taking care to keep 
 
GUT LOOPS, ETC., TAGS, AND TAILS. 45 
 
 the * rights ' and * lefts ' on their own side of the 
 hook. 
 
 One more variety in tails is composed of single 
 strands of different feathers, 'rights' and 'lefts' 
 being mixed together anyhow. To tie them on, 
 place them flat on the top of the hook, spread 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 them slightly, and press them there with the 
 thumb or forefinger while you wind the usual two 
 turns of tying silk : the stumps are cut off as 
 before, and varnished. 
 
 Be very careful when tying on tails of any kind 
 to cut off the stumps as close as possible, so that 
 when the butt is tied on there will be no lump or 
 ridge to the right of it. 
 
 When the beginner has had a little practice, 
 and can handle the tying silk easily, instead of 
 fastening off the floss of the tag with one or two 
 turns of tying silk, and then tying on the tail with 
 two or three more turns over them, he can tie on 
 the tail, and fasten off the floss together. This 
 
46 HO W TO TJE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 is a neater method, as the ridge formed is not so 
 great. Not that it matters very much where there 
 is to be a butt, as the ridge is then concealed ; 
 but where there is no butt, the floss should be 
 fastened off, and the tail tied on, together. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 BUTTS, RIBBING, BODIES, AND HACKLES. 
 
 BUTTS. 
 
 HE materials used for this part of the 
 fly are either ostrich herl dyed differ- 
 ent colours, or peacock's herl, or wool. 
 The latter are the stronger, although 
 
 not so effective. 
 
 Herl Biitts. For the size of hook illustrated, 
 
 select a herl of 
 
 medium length, 
 
 and holding it 
 
 between fore- 
 finger andthumb 
 
 of the left hand 
 
 against the side 
 
 of the hook, the 
 
 fibres to the left 
 
 as shown, tie the 
 
 end in with two 
 
 turns of silk : cut 
 
 off the end close 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 up. The fluffy edges or fibres should always 
 
4 8 
 
 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 point towards the tail ; not only because it con- 
 ceals the tying silk which fastens off the tag 
 and ties on the tail, but because it looks so 
 much neater, and the fibres will work better in 
 the water. Attach the pliers to the end of the 
 herl, and wind it carefully round the hook at 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 right angles to it, the first coil passing over the 
 first coil of the tying silk which secures the tail. 
 Three or four turns of the herl, close to one 
 another, will be sufficient. Fasten the herl in by 
 one turn of the tying silk, and cut off the end 
 close. 
 
BUTTS. 
 
 49 
 
 Many fly-tyers tie in the other end of the herl 
 first, but it is not nearly so strong ; on the other 
 hand, it is neater, as there is less quill. 
 
 Wool Butts. To form these with, take a short 
 piece of wool of the colour required, and with the 
 nails tear a quarter of an inch to pieces, pick it 
 up, and spin it on to the tying silk (in exactly the 
 same way you did the fur for the tag), and wind 
 three or four turns. You should endeavour to 
 make the outline of the butt oval, not flat, as 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 shown. The mistake generally made is that 
 these butts are made too large, and without shape, 
 owing to the wool being spun too thickly on to 
 the tying silk. There is another way, certainly 
 a quicker one, but not so neat, and that is, to tie 
 in a short length of very fine wool, just as you 
 would a herl, and then to wind it very tightly 
 round the hook, finishing off under the hook as 
 before. 
 
 D 
 
50 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 RIBBING. 
 
 The same turn of the tying silk that fastens 
 off the butt should tie in the tinsel for ribbing 
 the body. This should be stripped at one end 
 previously, in the manner described for tags : it 
 should be placed against the side of the hook, 
 and the turn of tying silk over it should be close 
 up to the butt. Don't cut off the exposed core 
 of floss at present. If tinsel and twist are to rib 
 the fly, both should be tied in together ; which- 
 ever of the two is to lead up the body should be 
 tied in below the other. It is better for the tinsel 
 to lead, as the twist which follows will then pro- 
 tect the hackle, as will be seen later on when we 
 come to hackles. As the body has to be formed 
 before the ribbing can be rolled on and finished, 
 we will leave this part for the present, and go on 
 to describe how bodies are formed. 
 
 BODIES. 
 
 This part of the fly is formed either of seal's 
 fur, mohair, pig's wool, floss silk, tinsel, twist, 
 chenille, or herl. In all cases the body should 
 taper slightly from the butt to the shoulder. 
 With some of the above materials this taper 
 can be formed as you proceed ; with others the 
 taper must be formed before the material is 
 wound on. 
 
FUR BODY WITHOUT HACKLE. 51 
 
 Fur body without hackle. In this case you can 
 either make the taper before you wind on the fur, 
 or you can increase the quantity of fur on the 
 tying silk, and wind it more closely as you pro- 
 gress. If you choose the first, take a well waxed 
 doubled piece of tying silk, and tie it in close to 
 the butt ; wind the original tying silk closely 
 and evenly up the body, and tie in a piece of floss 
 silk as shown. Cut off the end of the floss silk, 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 wind one more turn of the tying silk towards 
 the head, and leave it hanging with the pliers 
 attached. Now, wind the floss evenly down 
 to the butt, and back again up the body, forming 
 a taper as you do so : wind a turn or two of the 
 tying silk over to fasten the floss off, cut the end 
 of the latter off, and leave the silk hanging, pliers 
 attached. Now, take some fur, spin it on to the 
 
5 2 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 tying silk, which you fastened in at the butt, and 
 wind it round the hook as evenly as possible. 
 You cannot spin enough on for the whole body 
 at once, so spin on an inch or two, wind that on, 
 and repeat the same until you come to the end of 
 the padding. Remove any superfluous fur from 
 the tying silk with the nails, and fasten off with 
 the original tying silk which was left hanging 
 here. The ribbing tinsel is now wound on in 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 
 tight parallel coils. To fasten it off, wind two 
 turns of the tying silk over the end, cut off the 
 end to within about one-eighth of an inch from 
 the hook. Strip this end of the tinsel, keeping 
 the tying silk tight while you do so ; give the 
 exposed end a strong pull, cut off closely, wind 
 one more turn of the tying silk, then varnish. 
 
 It is very important with fur bodies that the 
 ribbing be tightly wound, as the fur is liable to 
 gradually fall out, and thereby leave the ribbing 
 loose. 
 
THE HACKLE ON A FUR BODY. 
 
 53 
 
 It will be noticed in these illustrations that the 
 bodies, instead of ending abruptly, are rapidly 
 tapered to a level with the hook. This is done 
 with the object of giving a sound surface for the 
 hackle to be wound upon, to admit of the fibres 
 playing properly, to prevent the set of the wings 
 being interfered with, and to enable the fly to 
 swim properly, without making a furr in the water. 
 With fur bodies it is a very good plan to com- 
 mence at the butt with a turn or two of floss silk 
 of the same colour as the fur ; the butt then stands 
 out more distinctly. The floss can be tied in, 
 wound on, and finished off before the remainder 
 of the body is formed. 
 
 The hackle on a fur body should be tied in a 
 short distance from the butt ; where the second 
 
 Fig. 31. 
 turn of the ribbing will pass is the best place, or, 
 
54 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 if you begin the body with a turn or two of floss 
 silk as described above, the junction of the floss 
 and fur is the best place. 
 
 The point of the hackle should be tied in on 
 the top of the hook, as shown, with a couple of 
 turns of tying silk, the fur is then completed up 
 
 Fig. 3 2 - 
 
 the body ; but in doing so, care must be taken not 
 to tie in any of the fibres. The hackle, before 
 being tied in, must be ' doubled.' Directions for 
 ' doubling ' hackles are given in the next chapter. 
 Floss silk bodies. After tying in the ribbing 
 tinsel at the butt, wind the tying silk as evenly as 
 possible up the body, and tie in the floss, as shown 
 in the illustration for padding fur bodies ; then 
 form the body, tapering it as shown (Fig. 33), 
 fastening off the floss at the shoulder and var- 
 nishing. If a hackle is required up the body, it 
 
FLOSS SILK BODIES. 
 
 55 
 
 should be tied in as you wind the tying silk up 
 from the butt ; but care must be taken, in winding 
 
 Fig- 33- 
 
 the floss afterwards, that no fibres are caught in. 
 The ribbing, as before, must pass immediately in 
 front of the hackle. 
 
 In some flies there is no butt at all; but floss 
 silk, which forms part of the body, is wound close 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 up to the tail and floss of the tag. You must be 
 careful to avoid a lump or ridge where the tail is 
 tied in ; so, after tying in the tail and the ribbing 
 
56 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 (the ends of which should not in this case be cut 
 off) wind the tying silk closely and evenly for a 
 short distance up the body, then tie in the floss, 
 and proceed as for an ordinary floss or fur body. 
 
 If one half of the body is to be, say orange floss, 
 the other half black floss, the best plan is to com- 
 plete the formation and tapering of the orange 
 half first, and then the same with the black, com- 
 pleting the taper as you go. Be careful to have 
 no lump or unevenness at the junction. It may 
 be as well to remind the reader that floss silk 
 must be smoothed before being wound ; that it 
 must be kept as flat as possible, and not allowed 
 to twist when being wound on ; also, that the hands 
 must be clean. 
 
 Tinsel bodies. There are several ways of tying 
 
 Fig. 35- 
 on the tinsels for these bodies. 
 
 I will describe 
 
TINSEL BODIES. 
 
 57 
 
 the two which I think the best. The first of them 
 is as follows : After the butt is completed, the 
 ribbing tinsel and body tinsel are tied in with the 
 same turn of silk. Before tying in the body tinsel, 
 cut one end to a taper, then with the taper down- 
 wards, and to the left, tie in at the side of the 
 hook just the point with the one turn of silk. 
 With a knife lift up this point and turn it back 
 over the tying silk, and press it slightly with the 
 nail ; leave the tinsel hanging there, and wind the 
 tying silk evenly up the body, then tie in the floss 
 for padding the body. This padding must now 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 be most carefully done, and, when finished, with 
 the stiletto scratch the surface of the floss all 
 over, then varnish it ; while it is drying, smooth 
 it with the blade of a penknife. If this is properly 
 
58 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 done, the body will, when the varnish is dry, be 
 quite smooth all over. Now wind the tinsel 
 
 Fig- 37- 
 
 round the hook, the first turn close up to the butt. 
 Don't let one coil overlap another, but press the 
 tinsel against the last turn as you wind. When 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 you have covered the whole body, wind three 
 tight turns of the tying silk over the tinsel, at right 
 
TINSEL BODIES. 59 
 
 angles to the hook ; cut off the end as close as 
 you can, and then, with the nails, press the edge, 
 so cut, down, and wind a turn or two more of 
 the tying silk. The ribbing is then wound as 
 before. When there is to be a hackle down the 
 body, it is tied in by the body tinsel only, which, 
 if tightly wound, will hold it firmly enough ; but 
 in this case the ribbing must pass actually pass 
 over the stem of the hackle, otherwise it would 
 be easily cut by the edge of the tinsel when you 
 were about to wind the hackle. 
 
 For jointed bodies, or for small flies, use the 
 tinsel of medium width. 
 
 The second way of tying in the tinsels involves 
 their being tied in with the tag, and is as follows : 
 After the floss for the tag is tied in, tie in a piece 
 of ribbing tinsel, stripped as usual at the side of 
 the hook; but in this case the ribbing tinsel, when 
 tied in, must lie to the right : wind on the floss 
 for the tag, finish it off, and tie in the tail with 
 two turns. Take the body tinsel, cut to a taper 
 at one end, as in the first method, and with the 
 taper to the left, the tinsel inclining to the right, 
 tie it in with one turn of tying silk, close to the 
 point immediately above the ribbing ; turn the 
 point back over the tying silk as before ; tie in 
 the herl or wool for the butt, wind it on, and finish 
 it off under the hook ; but in doing so, don't tie 
 down the tinsels, but pull them back out of the 
 way so that the tying silk can pass close up to 
 
6o 
 
 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 the butt. From this point the method of com- 
 pleting the body is the same as the last. I 
 should say that, in tying in the ribbing, you must 
 judge the distance, so that the stripped part will 
 just come to the last turn of the butt. Tied in 
 
 Fig. 39- 
 
 as I have described, there cannot possibly be any 
 lump or ridge on the body close to the butt, and 
 there is nothing to show how or where the tinsel 
 is tied in. If the exposed internal silk of the 
 ribbing tinsel is cut to a point, it helps to taper 
 the tag. 
 
 Chenille bodies. Before fastening these in, strip 
 off with the nails about a quarter of an inch of 
 the fluff which forms the chenille, leaving the 
 internal threads bare. Tie in these threads at 
 the side of the hook, and wind the tying silk 
 up the hook as usual. Little or no padding is 
 required. If the body is to have chenilles of 
 
LENG TH OF B ODIES. 6 1 
 
 two different colours, they should be tied in 
 together at the side of the hook, one above the 
 other, and rolled round together. 
 
 Tinselled chenilles are tied in in the same 
 way ; but while winding them with the right 
 hand, work the tinsel down the thread with the 
 left, or you will find that the act of pulling will 
 spread out the tinsel, and leave the internal thread 
 exposed. 
 
 Herts. For bodies these should be tied in two 
 at a time in the same way as for butts, and rolled 
 on their sides up the hook. If not long enough 
 for the whole body, finish them off, and tie in 
 fresh ones with the same turn of tying silk ; with 
 care there will be no perceptible difference in the 
 thickness of the body at the junction. Another 
 way, much stronger, but not nearly so neat, is to 
 tie in the herls with two turns, twist them round 
 the tying silk, and roll all round the hook to- 
 gether. 
 
 Length of bodies. So far, I have not said how 
 far up the hook the body should extend. This 
 will depend upon how many turns of, and how 
 many hackles there are to be at the shoulder. 
 As these vary considerably, and in some cases 
 there are no hackles (whole feathers, which take 
 up no room, being used instead), some difference 
 must be made ; but no rule can be laid down, 
 and practice only will tell you how far to go. 
 
 Ribbing contimied. In all cases ribbing should 
 
62 nOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 be tightly wound, or it will soon get out of place. 
 As to the number of turns down the body, you 
 must be guided chiefly by the pattern and quan- 
 tity of hackle you want on the fly, because the 
 more closely the ribbing is wound the more fibres 
 of hackles there must be. To fasten it off, wind 
 two tight turns of the tying silk, then give the 
 tinsel a pull, cut off the end to within about one- 
 eighth of an inch, strip it, wind one more turn, 
 cut off close, and varnish. 
 
 Ribbing should always be wound on in front of 
 the hackle, because the stem of the latter follow- 
 ing close up behind is then protected. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS. 
 
 OW to double hackles. Before being 
 tied in, cock's hackles, whether dyed 
 or natural, should be what is called 
 * doubled.' The illustration shows 
 
 the same hackle before and after being doubled. 
 
 The object of shaping the 
 
 feather so, is to enable you to 
 
 roll it down the body with all 
 
 the fibres pointing towards the 
 
 tail. If the feather were not 
 
 doubled, you could not wind 
 
 it properly. The old way of 
 
 putting on the hackle was to 
 
 strip off one side entirely of 1 
 
 two hackles, and roll them 
 
 both together ; this is done 
 
 now with feathers which have 
 
 curved fibres, and when two 
 
 different coloured hackles are 
 
 required up the body. There 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 are several ways of doubling hackles. The first, 
 
64 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 and perhaps the easiest, is to hold the feather 
 (previously stripped of fluff) as shown in the 
 illustration. The wrong, or under side of the 
 feather must be upwards. After getting the 
 feather into the position shown, with the thumb 
 and forefinger of the right hand draw the fibres 
 
 Fig. 41. 
 
 upwards, and towards the root of the feather, 
 or, in other words, against the grain of the fibres, 
 which is the secret of success. In the illustration 
 this has already been done, leaving the fibres in 
 the doubled position. If you prefer it, the root 
 end of the feather can be held in the nippers, 
 and the point between the forefinger and thumb. 
 The second method, not so easy at first, is to 
 hold one pair of nippers, which grasp the root end 
 of the hackle, in the palm of the left hand, as 
 shown, leaving the forefinger and thumb free. 
 The second pair of pliers, grasping the point of 
 the hackle, is held in the right hand ; in this case 
 the best or out side of the hackle is uppermost. 
 To double the fibres, press the forefinger and 
 
HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS, 65 
 
 thumb of the left hand down on to the feather, 
 against the grain of the fibres. With large 
 feathers there is no need to use the pliers, as 
 the butt can be held in the first joint of the 
 middle or third finger, and the point can be held 
 between the forefinger and thumb of the right 
 hand. If you want to double such feathers as 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
 the tippet feathers of the golden pheasant, wet 
 them first. The fibres bend more readily then. 
 How to strip hackles. Some feathers used as 
 hackles have a very thick rib or stem, which, if 
 wound on, would not only stand out, but would 
 spoil the play of the fly ; so this rib must be got 
 rid of. The barred feather from the wing of the 
 English jay is the best example. You can either 
 strip off the quill from the point, downwards, or 
 cut it off. I prefer the latter way, as, unless the 
 feathers are pretty fresh, nine times out of ten 
 you lose half the fibres with the first method, as 
 the stem near the point is so thin. The follow- 
 ing is the best way to cut it off. After stripping 
 
 E 
 
66 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 off the black fibres on one side, hold the feather 
 by the point, between the forefinger and thumb 
 of the left hand, the wrong side uppermost, and 
 with a pair of scissors cut horizontally from the 
 butt, to as near the point as possible (taking care, 
 though, not to cut right through the rib), taking 
 off as much of the rib as you can. Now, lay 
 the feather down on its back, and, with the point 
 of a knife, scrape away the pith very gradually ; 
 if this is carefully done, nothing but the quill will 
 be left, except of course near the point. If 
 the quill towards the butt end is too broad, 
 a little can easily be cut off with the scissors or 
 knife. 
 
 Winding on and fastening off hackles. After 
 the body and ribbing have been finished, the 
 hackle must be wound on. So fix the pliers to 
 the root end, and wind the hackle down, close up 
 to, and immediately behind the ribbing, twisting 
 the hackle, if necessary, to make the fibres point 
 towards the tail. Hackles must always be wound 
 tightly, otherwise they will soon lose their position 
 close behind the tinsel, and spoil the play of the 
 fly in the water. 
 
 When you corne to the end of the ribbing, wind 
 the hackle at right angles to the hook, covering 
 and concealing the tying silk underneath. Each 
 coil of the hackle should be close against the last, 
 but never overlapping it, or the fibres of the last 
 turn would be tied down, and prevented from 
 
HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS. 67 
 
 playing ; press back each coil against the last 
 with the nails of the forefinger and thumb. 
 
 All hackles should be fastened off under the 
 hook. The figure shows how to ensure your 
 doing so. Wind two turns of the tying silk over, 
 
 Fig. 43- 
 
 pull the hackle hard, press the last coil well back 
 against the others, cut off the end close, and take 
 one more turn. The scissors should be held along 
 the shaft in cutting off the stump, so as to taper 
 it slightly. In the illustration the shaft of the 
 hackle is pulled a little more to the right than it 
 should be, but this was done to show the position 
 more clearly. If the hackle is not long enough 
 to go further than the tinsel, it should be fastened 
 
68 
 
 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 off there under the hook, and another one, pre- 
 viously doubled, tied in with two turns of silk, as 
 
 Fig. 44. 
 
 shown. The end should then be cut off close, 
 and the hackle wound on and finished off as 
 
 Fig. 45- 
 
 before. This, also, is the method adopted for 
 tying in hackles at the shoulder when there is 
 
HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS. 69 
 
 none down the body. You can tie in as many 
 hackles as you want in the same way. As I said 
 in the last chapter, the last turn of the last hackle 
 should come to the spot where the wings are to 
 be tied in. This will depend upon the size of 
 the fly. The distance shown in the illustration 
 is about right for that size of fly. On a hook 
 with gut loop the hackle should reach to the 
 lapping of silk which ties on the gut loop. 
 
 Before tying in thick, stemmed hackles, soak 
 them in warm water ; they then wind more easily, 
 and are not so liable to split. With very fine 
 fibred feathers, such as toucans, tie in two or 
 three of the same size together, and wind them 
 on together. 
 
 Hackles with curved fibres. Feathers with 
 curved fibres, to be used as hackles, should not 
 be doubled. As examples, take jay, teal, or 
 guineafowl's feathers. If these were doubled, 
 the fibres would appear curved, in 
 opposite directions, when wound on 
 the hook, and spoil its appearance. 
 To obviate this, one side must be 
 stripped off. The illustration shows 
 a 'right' and 'left' jay's feather, 
 with one side of each stripped off. 
 If you tied in the feather on the 
 right, as before, and wound it up the 
 body, the fibres would all point to Fl S- 46. 
 the tail, and the blue side of the fibres be on the 
 head end of the fly, as they should be ; but if you 
 
70 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 did the same with the left hand feather, the fibres 
 would point towards the head end, and the blue 
 side of the fibres to the tail, which is wrong. 
 To prevent this, the ribbing tinsel must be wound 
 the reverse way, or towards, instead of from, 
 you ; then, when the hackle is wound behind it, 
 the fibres will be in their proper position. 
 
 Fig. 47- 
 
 The illustration shows a guineafowl's feather 
 (of which the right side was stripped off) wound 
 on. The reader will see from the above that if 
 the left side of a hackle is stripped off, the ribbing 
 and hackle must be wound from him, and if the 
 right side is stripped off, the ribbon and hackle 
 must be wound towards him. 
 
 Feathers with curved fibres, used as shoulder 
 or throat hackles, are treated in the same way : 
 ( rights ' being tied in on the side of the hook 
 nearest you, ' lefts' on the far side. 
 
HACKLES, JOINTED BODIES, AND GRUBS. 71 
 
 When stiff and thick-stemmed feathers, such 
 as golden pheasant tippets, are required as throat 
 hackles, it is a good plan to tie a bunch of fibres 
 in under the hook, as shown. They should be 
 spread slightly, and tied on with a couple of turns 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 of tying silk. The nearer these turns of silk are 
 to the last hackle, the more the fibres will stand 
 out from the hook, and the further away they 
 are the flatter will the fibres lie. 
 
 Length of fibres and quantity of hackle at the 
 throat. On the first of these there is a great 
 difference of opinion. Some fishermen prefer 
 very short fibred hackles, others very long. 
 With the first I do not agree at all. The part of 
 a hackle on the hook is to give the appearance 
 of life to a fly by the movement of its fibres in 
 the water. The shorter the fibres the more stiff 
 they appear, and consequently they show less 
 
HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 life. Surely, therefore, the longer they are (in 
 proportion, of course, to the size of the fly) the 
 better will they play. I therefore prefer hackle 
 fibres to reach almost to the barb of the hook. 
 
 As to the quantity of hackle at the shoulder, 
 you must bear in mind the following : First, Too 
 much hackle will cause the fly to swim crookedly. 
 Second, Some flies have three or more different 
 coloured hackles, therefore you must remember, 
 the more hackles, the fewer coils of each. Third, 
 The coarser the fibres, the fewer coils are re- 
 quired. Take jay or guineafowl. Three or four 
 coils as throat hackles are quite sufficient. Foitrth, 
 For some rivers very little hackle is preferable 
 to a lot, and vice versa. 
 
 JOINTED BODIES. 
 There are several varieties of these. 
 
 We will 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
 begin with those which have whole feathers of 
 Indian crow, chatterer, jay, etc., at each joint ; 
 
JOINTED BODIES. 73 
 
 when so placed they represent hackles. We will 
 suppose that you want to tie a body with three 
 joints ; Indian crow to be at the top and bottom 
 of each joint. Tie in the jay and tail, form the 
 first joint, and wind on the ribbing as shown. 
 Now take a 'right' and 'left' feather from the 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 breast of the Indian crow, both exactly the same 
 size ; place them back to back, and holding them 
 so between the forefinger and thumb of the left 
 hand, make a dent with the right thumb nail, at 
 right angles to their stems, close up to the fibres ; 
 tie these in with two turns of the silk, on top of 
 the hook, as shown. They should be perfectly 
 upright, on top of the hook, and pointing straight 
 along the shank. They should also close, one 
 against the other. Now take the fly out of the 
 
74 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 vice, turn it upside down, and place it so in the 
 vice ; be careful not to let the tying silk get 
 loose while you turn the fly over. Tie in two 
 more feathers, a ' right' and a ' left,' exactly the 
 same size as the last, in the same way, with two 
 turns of tying silk. Take the hook out of the 
 vice again, and replace it in its original position. 
 Tie in and wind on a herl as butt. The other 
 two joints are now made in the same way ; but 
 the feathers must gradually increase in size 
 from the joint nearest the tail to the head end. 
 All the feathers on the top of the hook should be 
 in one straight line, and the same on the under- 
 side of the hook. It is most important in a fly 
 
 of this kind that rights and lefts should be on 
 their own sides of the hook, with the curves of 
 their stems towards the body ; otherwise the tips 
 of the feathers will be at different angles, and the 
 symmetry destroyed. 
 
JOINTED BODIES. 
 
 75 
 
 Again, if in tying the feathers in, the silk does 
 not pass close up to the fibres, the fly would 
 have a very ragged appearance. On the other 
 hand, if any fibres were actually tied in, the 
 mistake would be as great. Flies of this kind 
 appear at first very difficult to the beginner ; 
 but really, the great thing needed is patience in 
 matching the feathers. If the dents are made, as 
 described, in the shafts, and the tying silk tightly 
 wound, the position of the feathers can easily be 
 obtained. A variety of the above is shown. 
 The stems cross one another at the side of 
 the hook. This method is sometimes adopted 
 for very small flies, or if the 
 whole body is to be covered 
 with feathers. Each feather 
 is tied separately rights and 
 lefts on their proper sides ; 
 there are four feathers, but 
 only two show two rights at 
 the top and two lefts below. 
 By turning the pillar of the Fig. 52. 
 
 vice round, four more, i.e. two above and two 
 below, can be tied in on the other side of the 
 hook, making altogether eight feathers in the 
 joint. If there were only four feathers at each 
 joint, the appearance of the fly would be thin, 
 and in the water these feathers would make 
 very little show. The remaining joints of the 
 body are formed as before, but the feathers in 
 
HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 each successive joint should be longer than the 
 last. 
 
 The next variety is that shown in the illustra- 
 tion. Hackles are tied in and wound on at each 
 
 Fig. 53- 
 
 joint in the same way as throat hackles. The 
 fibres should be longer in fibre at each successive 
 joint. No butts are needed at the joints with 
 this kind of fly, as the hackles take their place 
 
 and conceal tying silk, etc. 
 Similar in construction to 
 the last are * Grubs.' They 
 are wingless flies. There 
 may be hackles of two or 
 three different colours at 
 each joint, but there should 
 not be more than six turns 
 of hackle altogether at any 
 Fig. 54. joint, except the head one. 
 
 Here there is no need to make allowance for 
 
JOINTED BODIES. 
 
 77 
 
 wings, so the last hackle should be wound on 
 pretty close up to the end of the hook, just leav- 
 ing room for finishing off. When tying these 
 grubs on hooks larger than 3/0 or 4/0, three 
 joints or four sets of hackles should be tied. 
 
 With very small flies there are no joints at all ; 
 but the hackle, body ma- 
 terial, and ribbing, are tied 
 in together after the tag (if 
 any) is formed. The body 
 is then formed and the 
 hackle wound on. If very 
 little hackle is required, 
 one side of it can be 
 stripped off. If the hackle 
 
 is not Ions: enough, an- 
 
 Fig. s c v 
 other can be added, care 
 
 being taken to match the length of fibre. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 WINGS. 
 
 E now come to the most difficult part 
 of fly-tying. So far, every process 
 described is mere child's-play com- 
 pared to it, and nothing but con- 
 tinual practice can make the beginner really 
 efficient. The most important points to be 
 attained are as follows : Both wings must be 
 equal in size, upright, straight with the hook, 
 and quite firm ; every strip or fibre must be on 
 its own side of the hook none sticking out in 
 the slightest ; they must be arched or curved, and 
 the head as small as possible. Now, with refer- 
 ence to their being arched or curved, it is essential 
 that feathers suited to the size of the hook be 
 used. To illustrate this, cut a strip from a large 
 and from a small mallard feather. Cut off from 
 the large strip a piece equal in length to the strip 
 from the small feather. You will then see that 
 the natural curve in the fibres of the small feather 
 is most distinct, but that in the piece from the 
 large feather the fibres are almost straight. If 
 the strip from the small feather was tied on 
 
 
WINGS. 79 
 
 properly to a hook of the right size, it would arch 
 naturally ; but if you tied the piece cut off the 
 strip from the large feather on to the same sized 
 hook, the fibres could not arch, because they are 
 naturally straight. The above should be borne 
 in mind when you are tying any kind of wing, 
 whether with strips or strands, or whole feathers. 
 
 The tying silk should be well waxed before 
 any part of the wings is tied on, and every turn 
 of it should be as tight as possible ; otherwise 
 when the fly was finished, you would be able to 
 twist the wings to one side or other of the hook. 
 In attempting to do this you will probably break 
 the silk frequently at first, especially with * mixed ' 
 wings, but don't let this discourage you. 
 
 If you are tying a fly on an eyed hook, there 
 should be nothing to the right of the throat hackle 
 except the even close coils of tying silk which 
 were wound on first of all, With a fly tied on a 
 hook with gut loop, there should only be the bare 
 hook to the right of the throat hackle ; so, before 
 tying on the wing, wind the tying silk tightly and 
 evenly round the gut and hook, up to the end of 
 the shank, then start back again, still winding as 
 tightly and evenly as possible ; by this means 
 the gut at the head of the fly, where the most 
 strength is needed, has two layers of silk over it. 
 Varnish this tying all over. The gut, of course, 
 must be kept perfectly straight under the hook. 
 
 Single strip wings. For this kind of wing you 
 
8o 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 require a right and a left strip from some feather. 
 Coarse fibred feathers, such as bustard or turkey, 
 are the easiest to tie on : finer ones, such as teal 
 or mallard, the most difficult. The strip from the 
 right side of the feather (supposing you are look- 
 ing at the best side, hilt towards you) is for the 
 wing nearest to you. So cut off a strip, but leave 
 the quill on, as it helps to keep the fibres from 
 
 Fig- 5 6 - 
 
 * breaking/ To tie it on, place it against the side 
 of the hook, but rather high up, and hold it there 
 with the thumb of the left hand, close down to, 
 but not over, the place where the tying silk will 
 pass, while you wind a turn of the tying silk very 
 carefully, so as to draw all the fibres close to- 
 gether, at the side, and near the top of the hook, 
 as shown. There should not be the slightest 
 scoup, split, or projection of any one fibre, so you 
 must look closely before pulling the silk tight. If 
 there was any ' break ' in the fibres, the wing 
 
WINGS. 8 1 
 
 would split in the water. You must be careful, 
 too, to keep the wing on its own side of the hook, 
 or there will not be room for the other wing ; and 
 you must not get it too low on the hook, or it 
 will not arch properly. Two turns of tying silk 
 are sufficient. The wing on the far side of the 
 hook is placed in position, and held there with 
 the forefinger or second finger of the left hand, 
 and tied on like the other. If properly done, the 
 two wings will meet along the top, and when 
 looked at from the tail end of the fly, appear in- 
 clined slightly outwards. The length of the wings 
 should be such, that they will nearly reach the 
 point of the tail, or a little longer than the hook. 
 
 I said that the strip from the right side of the 
 feather was for the side of the hook nearest you, 
 and for all kinds of wings, except those with single 
 strips, it must always be so ; but with these wings 
 
 Fig. 57- 
 
 you get just as good a set, and a better appear- 
 ance, if you place the left strip on the side nearest 
 
 F 
 
82 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 you, and the right strip on the far side, as in the 
 illustration (fig. 5 7) ; but before tying them on, 
 the fibres must be bent back in the opposite direc- 
 tion to the natural curve ; you then get the longest 
 fibres on the top of the hook. The shortest or 
 lower fibres should be about the length of the hook. 
 The illustration (fig. 58), shows an easy way of 
 drawing all the fibres together, without a break. 
 The silk is waxed, and one end held between the 
 teeth. The quill end of the fibres is put through 
 a loop in the silk ; the latter is then pulled tight, 
 carefully. The wing is then placed in position 
 at the side of the hook, and tied on with a couple 
 of turns. I do not recommend this method to 
 those who have time to practise and master the 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 
 first and more difficult method ; of course you 
 must measure the length of the wing against the 
 hook before pulling the silk tight. 
 
 Under Wings. Many flies have what are called 
 underwings. They may be of whole feathers, or 
 of strips. Tippet feathers are frequently used 
 here. Select a * right ' and ' left ' ; those in which 
 
WINGS. 83 
 
 the stems are curved look best on the hook, as 
 you then get the black tips or bars nearly per- 
 pendicular to the hook shank ; but this applies 
 equally to all kinds of feathers when tied in whole. 
 Feathers with straight stems give the fly a very 
 stiff appearance. 
 
 They are tied in on top of the hook, both to- 
 gether, in the same way as feathers for a jointed 
 body; they should extend at least to the tag. Two 
 or three turns of silk will be sufficient. If the 
 stems of the feathers are thick, taper them slightly 
 on the underside with a sharp knife. The taper 
 should be a long one. The wings are then tied 
 on at the side as before. 
 
 Fig- 59- 
 
 If you wanted strands of tippet as underwings, 
 they also would be tied on the top of the hook, 
 the latter being held as in figure 23, in the chapter 
 on tails. 
 
8 4 
 
 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 MIXED WINGS. 
 
 These are made up of single strands from dif- 
 ferent feathers. They are, to a beginner, the 
 easiest of all kinds of wings to tie on ; but they 
 are at first troublesome to * make up.' We will 
 suppose that you want to tie on a mixed wing, 
 composed of bustard, golden pheasant tail, mal- 
 lard, summer duck, dark brown turkey, swan- 
 dyed yellow, red, and blue. For the wing nearest 
 you, cut a strip off each feather from the right 
 side. Split these strips up into single strands. 
 Take any strand, place it on its back on the table ; 
 then take another strand, place it also on its back 
 alongside, or on, the last ; then another, and so 
 on, some being on top, others alongside, until you 
 have formed a strip as shown. Of course you 
 
 Fig. 60. 
 
 must try not to place any two fibres of the same 
 kind next to one another. The points should all 
 be of the same length. Never mind about the 
 fibres crossing one another ; as long as they are 
 on their backs, and all from the right side of the 
 feather, they will be in their proper position. 
 
WINGS. 85 
 
 Make up two or three more strips in the same 
 way. These two or three strips must now be 
 formed into one broad strip (by the method 
 explained in chapter iv., on tails) ; but each strip 
 should be placed so that the points of the fibres 
 in it will be a little longer than those of the strip 
 below it, or, in other words, that the fibres on top 
 of the wing will be the longest. If properly done, 
 there will not be a single fibre sticking out ; but 
 if there should be one, it must be removed before 
 the wings are tied on. The stiletto will be found 
 very useful when laying down the strands and 
 picking up the strips from the table. 
 
 The left wing is now made up in the same 
 way, as nearly as possible of the same size as the 
 right wing. The latter is then picked up, and 
 placed on the left wing (best side of both out- 
 
 Fig. 61. 
 
 wards) so that they coincide, and form one double 
 wing. The wing must now be tied on top of the 
 
86 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 hook in the manner described for tails in chapter 
 iv. ; the tying silk round the head of the hook 
 having been varnished immediately beforehand. 
 
 After you have wound four or five turns of silk, 
 remove the left hand, and pinch the root ends of 
 the fibres on to the top of the hook. Then wind 
 a turn or two more. The wings should then be 
 perfectly upright, and not a single fibre standing 
 out. 
 
 These mixed wings generally have two strips 
 (one on each side) from some feather tied on over 
 
 Fig. 62. 
 
 them, to keep the fibres together in the water. 
 The illustration shows two strips of golden 
 pheasant tail tied on. 
 
 BUILT WINGS. 
 
 These are made up of strips, or strips and 
 strands, from different feathers. We will take as 
 
WINGS. 87 
 
 an example ( Jock Scott's 7 wings, the description 
 of which is as follows : Strips of black turkey 
 with white tips below ; strips of grey mallard 
 and bustard, strands of golden pheasant tail, 
 green peacock harl, swan-dyed yellow, red and 
 blue over, strips of mallard on top. 
 
 The first to be tied on are the strips of turkey. 
 It is a very common practice to tie these on the 
 top of the hook, as shown in the illustration. I 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
 prefer them at the side, because they are then 
 lower on the hook, and consequently more of 
 them will show when the rest of the wing is tied 
 on, as they should do. Besides that, the head of 
 the fly will be smaller. A turn or two of tying 
 silk for each wing will be sufficient. The strips 
 should not be nearly as broad as those for a 
 single-strip wing ; neither should there be any 
 break. 
 
 Now take a right strip from both a grey mal- 
 
88 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 lard and a bustard feather, a few strands of each, 
 unite them, as previously described, into one 
 strip. As grey mallard feathers would not be long 
 enough for a fly of this size, some other feather 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
 must be substituted ; I have used light turkey. 
 Silver pheasant tail would do. 
 
 Place the strip against the side of the hook ; 
 wind a turn of silk ; but, before pulling it tight, 
 press the thumb tightly on to the strips and silk, 
 and don't remove the pressure until the silk is 
 tight ; two turns of silk are sufficient. The left 
 strips are tied on in the same way, the second 
 finger being pressed down on to the silk and 
 strips before the former is pulled tight The 
 strips should lie flat to the turkey strips without 
 any break. Now mix a few strands of swan, 
 golden pheasant tail, and green peacock's herl 
 (two or three strands of each will be enough) ; 
 
WINGS. 
 
 89 
 
 place these also against the side of the hook, and 
 tie them in as before. They should be placed 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 
 fairly high up, almost on the top of the hook, so 
 that they will not cover the turkey strips. 
 
 Finally, on the top of the wings tie in two 
 strips of mallard, as you would for mixed wings. 
 
 As with other wings, so with these, no strand 
 or strip should stand out or project ; but all 
 should lie flat, and the wings should be perfectly 
 straight on the hook. 
 
 Cheeks should be tied in next, by placing 
 them diagonally against the sides of the wings, 
 and pressing them there with the nail. A turn 
 of silk for each side will be sufficient. They 
 must lie flat to the wings. 
 
 Topping over. Select a topping of such a size 
 that it will just reach to the end of the wings. 
 
 Make a dent with the thumb nail across, and 
 
9 o 
 
 HO W TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 at right angles to, the stem, and while doing so, 
 bend the feather up into the position shown. 
 Then, on the under side cut the stem to a good 
 long taper with a knife. Place the feather on 
 
 Fig. 66. 
 
 the top of the hook, and wind two turns of tying 
 silk over ; but take care that it is straight along 
 the wings, and not pointing to one side. 
 
 For the horns, take a right and a left strand 
 from a macaw's tail feather. An examination 
 
 Fig. 67. 
 will show that there is a broad yellow quill to 
 
HEADS. 91 
 
 each strand. This quill must be flat on the hook. 
 Place the fibre at the side of, and close up to the 
 stem of, the topping, and wind one turn of silk 
 over. Do the same to the other, after making 
 sure they will be of the same length. It will be 
 easier to the beginner if he makes a dent across 
 the quills where the tying silk is to pass. 
 
 HEADS. 
 
 All the roots of the wing feathers should now 
 be cut off at an angle, so that when bound over 
 with tying silk the head will be tapered and 
 pointed, as shown. To do this, hold the scissors 
 along the hook. When this has been done, 
 varnish the stumps, and wind the tying silk as 
 closely and tightly as possible to the end of the 
 shank ; wind back three or four turns, and finish 
 off in the manner shown in the illustration. The 
 end A of the tying silk is turned towards the 
 bend of the hook, and held against the head, 
 while the side of the loop B is wound over it, 
 three or four times ; A is then pulled tight. Cut 
 off the end closely, varnish the whole head well, 
 and when quite dry, give it another coat. 
 
 The beginner will probably find that the head 
 of his fly is twice the size of 
 that shown. This will be 
 because he has used too many 
 turns of silk probably, and Fig. 68. 
 
 has not pulled them tight enough. With practice 
 
92 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 he will soon learn to remedy this. If the fly is 
 to have a ' herl' head, a strand must be tied in, 
 wound on and fastened off, as if for a butt, after 
 the stumps of the wings have been cut off. 
 
 A head of wool should also be formed as for a 
 wool ' butt.' 
 
 If the wings have been firmly tied on, you 
 should not be able to twist them over to one side 
 or the other when the head is held between the 
 forefinger and thumb. 
 
 GOLDEN PHEASANT TOPPINGS. 
 
 These feathers are troublesome to manage 
 when the wings are composed of them. Each 
 one should be exactly on top of the last, and they 
 should increase in length from the lowest one. 
 
 Fig. 69. 
 
 The best way is to cut the stems underneath to 
 a taper, to dent and bend them in turn, and to tie 
 
PEACOCK HERL WINGS. 
 
 93 
 
 on two or three together, taking care that the 
 stems are straight along the hook. If the taper- 
 ing has been properly done, the stems can be cut 
 straight off across the hook. 
 
 PEACOCK HERL WINGS. 
 
 Before making up wings composed of these 
 fibres, it is a good plan to strip off the flue on 
 both sides of the quill, for a short distance from 
 the butt end. They are then much more easy to 
 manage. 
 
 To strip them, pass each in turn between the 
 thumb nail and forefinger of the right hand gently. 
 Take an equal quantity of rights and lefts. 
 Begin by placing a right along the left forefinger, 
 
 Fig. 70. 
 
 then on that place a left, keeping the quills flat ; 
 the left should be inclined a little outwards from 
 the * right.' Proceed in this way until you have 
 
94 HOW TO TIE SALMON FLIES. 
 
 built enough. You should then have a right and 
 left wing in one. Keeping the lefts at a slight 
 angle from, or rather crossing, the rights, facili- 
 tates matters ; before being tied on, they can be 
 brought back to a parallel position with the 
 rights, by gently squeezing with the fingers. 
 The wing should now be placed on the top of 
 the hook, with the quills quite flat, and tied on 
 with three or four turns of silk. All the herls 
 should lie flat to the wings, and not stick out. 
 The head can then be finished as before. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 
 
 HE dressings of the following flies 
 have (with a few exceptions) been 
 selected from many others described 
 in the Fishing Gazette by Mr. 
 G. M. Kelson, Mr. W. Murdoch, Mr. P. D. 
 Malloch, Mr. D. O'Fee, and Mr. W. Brown. 
 When compiling the list, I had two objects in 
 view. The first was, that it should contain 
 patterns of every style of fly, and the second, 
 that a few dressings could be selected from it 
 which would suit any river. 
 
 The beginner will find plenty of variety here. 
 He should commence with the easiest patterns, 
 such as grubs, and flies with plain wings ; and 
 gradually work up to the more difficult. 
 
 i. AJAX GRUB. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and red silk. 
 
 No. i hackle. A small coch-y-bonddhu, and two 
 very small jungle, one on either side of the 
 hook, pointing towards the tag, and in line 
 with the shank. 
 
96 APPENDIX. 
 
 Body. Alternate coils of yellow and black che- 
 nille. 
 
 No. 2 hackle. A larger coch-y-bonddhu ; jungle as 
 before. 
 
 No. 3 hackle. A full-sized coch-y-bonddhu, and a 
 couple of turns of gallina, dyed red, jungle as 
 before. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 2. BAKER. 
 
 Tag. Gold twist and light blue floss. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 
 Ribbing. Oval gold tinsel. 
 
 Body. Three turns of gold floss : then equal por- 
 tions of dark orange, light blue, and red seal's 
 fur. 
 
 Hackle. Red claret, gallina at shoulder, then 
 light blue. 
 
 Wings. Two tippet feathers back to back, 
 covered with strips of golden pheasant's tail, 
 bustard, peacock's wing, and strands of red, 
 green, blue, and yellow dyed swan. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 3. BLACK DOG. (Mr. Malloch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and a few fibres of scarlet ibis. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 97 
 
 Butt. Black ostrich herl. 
 
 Body. Black floss silk, ribbed with gold and 
 
 silver oval tinsel ; orange floss between the 
 
 two tinsels. 
 
 Hackle. Black heron at shoulder only. 
 Wings. Mixed bronze peacock herl, silver grey 
 
 turkey, bustard, pintail, teal, summer duck, 
 
 mallard, and swan, dyed red, yellow, and blue ; 
 
 topping over. 
 Cheeks. Jungle cock. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 4. BLACK JAY. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and dark yellow silk. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Two turns of black floss, remainder black 
 seal's fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel, preceded by silver lace on 
 large patterns. 
 
 Hackle. Natural black from floss silk. 
 
 Throat. Jay. 
 
 Wings. Mixed tippet, scarlet ibis, and gallina, 
 golden pheasant tail, bustard, teal, black 
 cockatoo's tail, and swan dyed green and dark 
 yellow ; two strips of mallard above. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 G 
 
98 APPENDIX. 
 
 5. BLUEBELL. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and blue silk, same shade as 
 
 hackle. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 Body. Orange silk first half, and remainder blue, 
 
 same shade as hackle. 
 Ribbing. Silver lace and tinsel. 
 Hackle. Blue macaw from blue silk. 
 Throat. Yellow macaw. 
 
 Wings. Red macaw in strands ; topping over. 
 Cheeks. Jungle cock. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 6. BLUE BOYNE. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and claret silk. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Silver twist, in three sections, each butted 
 with black herl. At each joint are chatterer's 
 feathers sideways two or three on either side 
 near the top and bottom. The feathers 
 gradually increase in length from the first 
 joint towards the head. 
 
 Wings. Five toppings. 
 
 Head. Black herl. 
 
 Hook. No. 7. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 99 
 
 7. BLUE DOCTOR. 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light orange floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping and chatterer. 
 
 Butt. Scarlet wool. 
 
 Body. Light blue floss. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver oval. 
 
 Hackle. Light blue. 
 
 Throat. Gallina. 
 
 Wings. Mixed tippet, golden pheasant tail, 
 bustard, summer duck, yellow, red, and blue 
 dyed swan ; two strips ot mallard above, 
 topping over. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Scarlet wool. 
 
 8. BUTCHER. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag, Silver twist and yellow silk. 
 
 Tail. A topping, teal and powdered blue macaw. 
 
 Butt. Black herl 
 
 Body. In four equal divisions, beginning with 
 
 light red-claret, and continuing with light blue, 
 
 dark red-claret, and dark blue seal's fur. 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel, preceded on large hooks by 
 
 silver lace. 
 Hackle. Natural black, from light red- claret 
 
 seal's fur. 
 Throat. Yellow hackle, followed by gallina. 
 
ioo APPENDIX. 
 
 Wings. A tippet feather and red breast feather 
 from a golden pheasant, back to back, the 
 latter extending to the length of the wing. 
 Both are well covered on the side with slight 
 strips of teal, golden pheasant tail ; gallina, 
 bustard, and peacock's wing, and strands of 
 parrot and swan dyed yellow ; two strips of 
 mallard on top. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 9. CARRON. (Mr. Brown.) 
 
 Body. Orange wool. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Black heron down the whole body. 
 
 Wings. Mallard. 
 
 10. CLARET JAY. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping, scarlet ibis and gallina. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Two turns, light red-claret silk, remainder 
 
 claret seal's fur. 
 Ribbed. Oval silver tinsel. 
 Hackle. Claret. 
 Throat. Jay. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 101 
 
 Wings. Mixed teal, tippet, florican, light 
 mottled turkey, parrot, golden pheasant tail, 
 gallina, and dark bustard, swan dyed yellow, 
 yellow-green, light yellow, and claret ; two 
 strips of mallard above. 
 
 Sides. Yellow macaw and scarlet ibis in married 
 strips. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 ii. CHILDERS. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist, and light blue silk. 
 
 Tail. Topping, with strands of red macaw, pin- 
 tail, and powdered blue macaw. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Two turns of light yellow silk, continuing 
 with light yellow seal's fur, leaving one-fifth at 
 the shoulder for scarlet seal's fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver lace and tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. A white furnace dyed light yellow. 
 
 Throat. A scarlet hackle and light widgeon. 
 
 Wings. Mixed golden pheasant tippet and tail, 
 turkey, silver pheasant, pintail, summer duck, 
 bustard, powdered blue macaw, parrot, red 
 macaw, and gallina ; two strips of mallard 
 above and a topping. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
T02 APPENDIX. 
 
 12. DUNKELD. 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and orange floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping and jungle cock. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Gold tinsel, ribbed at each turn with silver 
 
 twist. 
 
 Hackle. Golden olive, jay at shoulder. 
 Wings. Mixed tippet, ibis, bustard, peacock 
 
 wing, and mallard ; two toppings over. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 13. DUNT. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light blue floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and pintail. 
 
 Body. Orange shaded into fiery brown mohair. 
 
 Ribbed. Gold twist and silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. From centre of body long black heron. 
 
 Throat. Teal. 
 
 Wings. Two strips of dark brown turkey, with 
 black bar and white tips ; to extend flatwise 
 outward from the top of the hook, at about 
 an angle of twenty degrees ; on top, between 
 the wings, a narrow strip of pintail. 
 
 Cheeks. Jungle. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 103 
 
 14. DURHAM RANGER. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and Indian crow, flat. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Two turns of orange silk, two turns of 
 dark orange seal's fur ; the rest, about half, 
 black seal's fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver lace and tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. From orange fur, a white coch-y-bonddhu 
 dyed orange. 
 
 Throat. Light blue hackle. 
 
 Wings. Four golden pheasant tippets, back to 
 back, two on each side, enveloping two pro- 
 jecting jungle cock back to back ; topping over. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 15. DUSTY MILLER. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and yellow floss. 
 Tail. Topping. 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 Body. Embossed silver tinsel. 
 Ribbed. Silver oval. 
 
 Hackle. Gallina ; only at shoulder in small 
 patterns. 
 
io 4 APPENDIX. 
 
 Wings. Mixed white tipped turkey, golden 
 pheasant tail, pintail, bustard, summer duck, 
 swan dyed yellow, red, and blue ; topping 
 over. 
 
 Cheeks. Jungle cock. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 1 6. EVENING STAR. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and tippet coloured silk. 
 
 Tail. Topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. In four equal sections : the first three of 
 silver tinsel, each having two jungle cock back 
 to back above and below, and butted with 
 black herl ; the last division of blue floss, the 
 only one ribbed with silver tinsel, oval. 
 
 Throat. Jungle as before. These feathers slightly 
 increase in length from the opposite end of 
 the body. 
 
 Wings. Four Amherst pheasant tippets, back to 
 back ; topping over. 
 
 Cheeks. The tip of a summer duck feather, and 
 an Indian crow feather on each side, the 
 former in advance. 
 
 Horns. Red macaw. 
 
 Head. Black her!. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 105 
 
 17. FIERY BROWN. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist and light orange floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Fiery brown seal's fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Oval gold tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. From first turn of tinsel, fiery brown. 
 
 Wings. Tippet strands, between broad strips of 
 
 mallard. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 1 8. GITANA. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and red floss, same shade as 
 
 Indian crow. 
 Tail. Two toppings ; a jungle and chatterer on 
 
 each side. 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 Body. One-third silver tinsel, butted with black 
 
 herl, and having four Indian crow, two at 
 
 top and two at bottom, back to back ; the 
 
 remainder black floss. 
 
 ' 
 
 Hackle. Black from the floss. 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel and gold lace. 
 Throat. Green macaw. 
 
io6 APPENDIX. 
 
 Wings. Two dark blue macaw feathers, a jungle 
 on either side extending beyond the tag, and 
 five tippet feathers on either side, the longest 
 reaching to the butt ; three or four toppings 
 over. 
 
 Cheeks. Enamelled thrush. 
 
 Head. Black herl. 
 
 19. GLOW-WORM (GRUB). (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist. 
 
 Tail. Scarlet ibis. 
 
 No. i hackle. A small coch-y-bonddhu. 
 
 Body. Copper-coloured tinselled chenille. 
 
 No. 2 hackle. A larger coch-y-bonddhu. 
 
 No. 3 hackle. A full-sized coch-y-bonddhu. 
 
 20. GORDON. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist, and medium orange floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and Indian crow, flat. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Four turns medium orange floss, remainder 
 medium claret floss. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel and twist. 
 
 Hackle. Claret to match body. 
 
 Throat. Greenish blue hackle. 
 
 Wings. Two tippets back to back, reaching to 
 the butt, with red spear feather between and 
 projecting beyond them. These are covered 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 107 
 
 on the sides with strips of bustard, golden 
 pheasant tail, peacock wing, mallard, and 
 strands of swan dyed blue, red, and yellow, 
 and peacock herl ; topping over. 
 
 Cheeks. Jungle cock. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 21. GREY EAGLE. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist. 
 
 Tail. Golden pheasant rump feather. 
 
 Body. Black mohair well picked out. 
 
 Ribbed. Broad silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Grey eagle. 
 
 Throat. Teal. 
 
 Wings. Brown mottled turkey strips. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 22. GREY HERON. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Gold tinsel. 
 
 Tail. Topping and small tippet feather. 
 
 Body. Orange fur well picked out. 
 
 Ribbed. Gold tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Grey heron. 
 
 Throat. Teal. 
 
 Wings. Brown mottled turkey strips. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
io8 APPENDIX. 
 
 23. JOCK SCOTT. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and Indian crow. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. In two equal sections : the first, light 
 yellow floss, ribbed with fine silver tinsel ; 
 above and below are placed three or more 
 toucan, according to size of hook, extending 
 slightly beyond the butt, and followed by 
 three or more turns of black herl ; the 
 second half black silk, with a natural black 
 hackle down it, and ribbed with silver lace 
 and silver tinsel. 
 
 Throat. Gallina. 
 
 Wings. Two strips of black turkey, with white 
 tips below ; two strips of bustard and grey 
 mallard, with strands of golden pheasant tail, 
 peacock sword feather, red macaw, and blue 
 and yellow dyed swan over, with two strips of 
 mallard, and a topping above. 
 
 Sides. Jungle cock. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 24. JUDGE. (Mr. O'Fee.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist and orange floss. 
 Tail. Topping and two chatterer. 
 Butt. Green peacock herl. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 
 
 109 
 
 Body. Silver tinsel ribbed with gold lace. 
 
 Hackle. Rich golden olive. 
 
 Throat. Bright fiery brown, then jay. 
 
 Wings. Strips of bustard, and swan dyed deep 
 yellow, strands of tippet, powdered blue 
 macaw, green and red parrot ; two toppings 
 over. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Peacock herl. 
 
 25. KNEECAP. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist and light blue floss. 
 
 Tail. Tippet, florican, teal, scarlet ibis, yellow 
 
 macaw, and powdered blue macaw. 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 Body. Two turns bright red-claret seal's fur, 
 
 remainder dirty orange seal's fur. 
 Ribbed. Gold tinsel. 
 Hackle. Kneecap, from orange fur. 
 Wings. Dark mottled turkey, pintail, golden 
 
 pheasant tail, peacock, powdered blue macaw, 
 
 black cockatoo's tail, and parrot, all in strands ; 
 
 two strips black turkey with white tips, over. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 26. LADY CAROLINE. (Mr. Brown.) 
 
 Tail. Strands of red feather from golden pheasant. 
 Body. Reddish brown wool. 
 
no APPENDIX. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel, between gold and silver 
 
 twist. 
 
 Hackle. Long grey heron down the whole body. 
 Throat. Red hackle from golden pheasant. 
 Wings. Mallard. 
 
 27. LEMON GREY. 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping. 
 
 Body. Grey monkey fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Green olive. 
 
 Throat. Yellow hackle. 
 
 Wings. Mallard, tippet, golden pheasant tail, 
 
 bustard, gallina, and green parrot. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 28. MAC!NTYRE. (Mr. Murdoch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping and Indian crow, flat. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Three turns light orange floss, three turns 
 
 scarlet seal's fur, remainder blue fur, picked 
 
 out. 
 
 Ribbed. Broad silver tinsel and silver lace. 
 Hackle. Magenta from scarlet fur. 
 Throat. Greenish- blue hackle, and then long 
 
 black heron. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLJES. 
 
 ii 
 
 Wings. Under, two tippets back to back, extend- 
 ing to butt, two long jungle cock over them ; 
 at the sides, strips of bustard, golden pheasant 
 tail, peacock's wing, swan dyed red, green, 
 and blue ; two strips of mallard above ; two 
 toppings over. 
 
 Cheeks. Light chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue, red, and yellow macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 29. PARSON. 
 
 Tag. Silver twist. 
 
 Tail. Topping and chatterers sideways. 
 
 Body. Three turns gold floss, three turns gold 
 
 seal's fur, remainder orange seal's fur. 
 Ribbed. Silver twist. 
 Hackle. Golden olive. 
 Throat. Orange hackle, then jay. 
 Wings. Toppings. 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 Head. Black. 
 
 30. PENPERGWM PET. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and bright yellow seal's fur. 
 Tail. Indian crow, summer duck, and scarlet ibis. 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 Body. Bright yellow, crimson-magenta, mouse, and 
 
 rich plum-claret seal's fur, in equal sections. 
 Ribbed. Silver tinsel. 
 
ii2 APPENDIX. 
 
 Hackle. A coch-y-bonddhu dyed in Bismarck 
 brown from yellow seal's fur. 
 
 Wings. Double white turkey, ginger speckled 
 turkey, bustard, black cockatoo's tail, red ma- 
 caw, powdered blue macaw, parrot, and teal, 
 all in strands, two strips brown turkey, with 
 black bar and white tip over. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 31. POPHAM. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist. 
 
 Tail. Topping and Indian crow, flat. 
 
 Bttit. Black herl. 
 
 Body. In three equal sections, butted with black 
 herl : the first dark red-orange silk, ribbed 
 with fine oval gold tinsel, having Indian crow 
 flat, above and below ; the second joint, yellow 
 silk, with similar ribbing and Indian crow ; the 
 third, light blue silk, with silver ribbing and 
 Indian crow. 
 
 Hackle. At throat only, jay. 
 
 Wings. Tippet, teal, gallina, golden pheasant tail, 
 parrot, light brown mottled turkey, bustard, 
 red- macaw, yellow macaw (or swan dyed 
 yellow for large hooks) ; two strips of mallard 
 above and a topping. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
DXXSS/JYGS OF SALMON FLIES. 113 
 
 32. POYNDER OR CAPTAIN. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light blue floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping, and two chatterers sideways. 
 
 Body. Two turns light orange floss, two turns 
 dark orange seal's fur, two turns dark red- 
 claret seal's fur, remainder dark blue seal's fur. 
 
 Ribbed. Oval silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. A white coch-y-bonddhu dyed light red- 
 claret from the orange silk. 
 
 Throat. Blue hackle and gallina. 
 
 Wings. Pintail, teal, gallina, peacock wing, Am- 
 herst pheasant, bustard, and golden pheasant 
 tail, swan dyed light orange, dark orange, 
 dark claret, and dark blue ; two strips of 
 mallard above and a topping. 
 
 Sides. Jungle cock. 
 
 Cheeks. Chatterer. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 33. PURPLE KING. (Mr. Brown.) 
 
 Body. Light purple wool, ribbed by flat silver 
 tinsel, and two strands of twist, one gold, 
 the other silver. 
 
 Hackle. Brownish black feather from side of 
 cock's tail, wound in the opposite direction to 
 the tinsels, and crossed by one of them, 
 H 
 
1 14 APPENDIX 
 
 Throat. Teal. 
 
 Wing. Double strips of mallard, short, and apart 
 
 to allow hackle to appear between them. 
 N.B. The hackle fibres are reversed, and the 
 butt end tied in first at tail end. 
 
 34. RED PIRATE. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and blue floss. 
 
 Tail. Topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Silver twist, in three sections, each butted 
 with black herl. At each joint are Indian 
 crow's feathers, sideways, two or three on 
 either side near the top and bottom ; the 
 feathers gradually increase in size from the 
 first joint towards the head. 
 
 Wings. Five toppings. 
 
 Horns. Amherst pheasant. 
 
 Head. Black herl. 
 
 Hook. No. 7. 
 
 35. SILVER GREY. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and yellow silk. 
 
 Tail. Topping and unbarred summer duck. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Silver tinsel. 
 
 Ribbed. Oval silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. A silver furnace, down body. 
 
DRESSINGS OF SALMON FLIES. 1 1 5 
 
 Throat. Widgeon. 
 
 Wings. Mixed golden pheasant tippet and tail, 
 bustard, mallard, grey mallard, swan dyed 
 yellow and blue ; two strips of mallard and a 
 topping over. 
 
 Sides. Jungle cock. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 36. SILVER DOCTOR. (Mr. Malloch.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and golden yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping and chatterers sideways. 
 
 Butt. Scarlet wool. 
 
 Body. Silver tinsel. 
 
 Ribbed. Oval silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Blue. 
 
 Throat. Gallina. 
 
 Wings. Mixed golden pheasant tippet and tail, 
 silver grey turkey, bustard, summer duck, and 
 swan dyed yellow, red, and blue ; topping 
 over. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Scarlet wool. 
 
 37. SPRING GRUB. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and light blue floss. 
 Tail. Scarlet ibis and blue macaw in married 
 strips. 
 
u6 APPENDIX. 
 
 Body. In two sections, having three hackles ; at 
 the tail, a furnace hackle dyed orange ; first half 
 of body yellow silk ribbed with black chenille ; 
 in the centre a natural blue hackle ; second 
 half of body black silk ribbed with silver 
 tinsel ; head hackles, a natural coch-y-bond- 
 dhu ; and last, a gallina dyed dark orange. 
 
 38. THUNDER AND LIGHTNING. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Gold twist and yellow floss. 
 
 Tail. A topping. 
 
 Butt. Black herl. 
 
 Body. Black silk. 
 
 Ribbed. Oval gold tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Orange from first turn of tinsel. 
 
 Throat. Jay. 
 
 Wings. Mallard ; topping over. 
 
 Sides. Jungle cock. 
 
 Horns. Blue macaw. 
 
 Head. Black. 
 
 39. TIPPET GRUB. (Mr. Kelson.) 
 
 Tag. Silver twist and scarlet fur. 
 
 No. i hackle. Two turns of small tippet feather, 
 
 and two turns natural black hackle ; butted 
 
 with two turns of silver twist. 
 Body. Light green oline chenille. 
 
DRESSfA ? GS OF SALMON FLIES. 1 1 7 
 
 No. 2 hackle. Same as No. i, but slightly larger. 
 No. 3 hackle. Same as before, but larger still. 
 Head. Silver twist. 
 
 40. YELLOW CATERPILLAR. 
 
 Tag. Silver twist. 
 
 Body. Yellow and dirty orange seal's fur mixed. 
 Ribbed. Oval silver tinsel. 
 
 Hackle. Down the whole body a blue dun hackle, 
 with another of same kind at the head. 
 
INDEX 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 FIG. 
 
 AJAX GRUB, dressing of, . 
 
 95 
 
 
 BAKER, dressing of, 
 
 96 
 
 
 Black Dog, dressing of, . 
 
 96 
 
 
 Jay, dressing of, .... 
 
 97 
 
 
 Bluebell, dressing of, .... 
 
 98 
 
 
 Blue Boyne, dressing of, 
 
 98 
 
 
 Doctor, dressing of, . 
 
 99 
 
 
 Bodies, floss silk, ..... 
 
 CA. CC 
 
 27 
 
 fur, commencing with floss, . 
 
 53 
 
 J J 
 
 fur, with hackle, .... 
 
 53, 54 
 
 3 1 , 32 
 
 fur, without hackle, 
 
 5i,52 
 
 29,30 
 
 herl, 
 
 61 
 
 
 jointed, formation of, 
 
 72-76 
 
 49-53 
 
 length of, 
 
 61 
 
 
 materials for, 
 
 50 
 
 
 tinsel for jointed, .... 
 
 59 
 
 
 tinsel, hackles on, . 
 
 59 
 
 38 
 
 tinsel, without hackle, . 
 
 . 56-58 
 
 35-37 
 
 with floss of two colours, 
 
 56 
 
 
 without butts, . . . 
 
 55 
 
 34 
 
 Butcher dressing of, 
 
 99 
 
 
 Butts herl, to tie on, .... 
 
 . 47, 48 
 
 26, 27 
 
 materials for, 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 4Q 
 
 28 
 
 wool, shape of, .... 
 
 49 
 
 28 
 
 CARRON, dressing of, 100 
 
 Captain, dressing of, 113 
 
 Cheeks, 89 
 
 Chenille bodies, . . 61 
 
 Chenilles, ........ 7 
 
 Childers, dressing of, .... 101 
 
 Claret Jay, dressing of, 100 
 
i2o INDEX. 
 
 PAGE FIG. 
 
 Colour of hackles, 26 
 
 Copperas, 8 
 
 DEFINITIONS, 21, 22 
 
 Dunkeld, dressing of, 102 
 
 Dunt, dressing of, 102 
 
 Durham Ranger, dressing of, . . . . 103 
 
 Dusty Miller, dressing of, 103 
 
 Dye, to, feathers or fur, 25, 26 
 
 Dyeing, materials for, ..... 23 
 
 Dyes, acids for, . . . 25 
 
 varieties of, 23 
 
 EVENING STAR, dressing of, . . . 104 
 
 Eyed Hooks, advantages of, .... 2 
 
 brazed eyes preferable, . . 2 
 
 knots for, . 3, 4 2, 3 
 
 ,, to prevent work slipping on, 31 i 
 
 varieties of eye, .... 2 
 
 FEATHERS, Bustard, 14 
 
 Chatterer, 13, 14 
 
 fixing bath before dyeing, . . 23, 24 
 
 Golden Pheasant, .... 11 
 
 Guinea Fowl, 14 
 
 Ibis, 16 
 
 Indian Crow, 13 
 
 Jay, 15 
 
 Jungle Cock, ... 13 
 
 loss of colour of, . . . . 17, 1 8 
 
 Macaws, 12 
 
 Mallard, 15 
 
 Ostrich, 1 6 
 
 Parrot, ...... 13 
 
 Peacock, 16 
 
 Pintail, 15 
 
 Red-breasted Crow, ... 13 
 
 ,, Summer Duck, .... 15 
 
 Swan, ...... 16 
 
 Teal, 15 
 
 to clean before dyeing, . . .23, 24 
 
 ,, to destroy moth in, ... 18 
 
 to restore shape to, 18 
 
 Turkeys, 16 
 
 whole, rights and lefts, ... 41 
 
11\JJLA . 
 
 
 121 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 FIG. 
 
 Feathers, Widgeon, 
 
 15 
 
 
 Fibres, length of, at Throat, 
 
 71 
 
 
 Fiery brown, dressing of, . 
 
 105 
 
 
 Floss for tag, to fasten off, 
 
 36 
 
 
 Fur, seal's, 
 
 7 
 
 
 to spin, on tying silk, .... 
 
 36 
 
 16 
 
 Gitana, dressing of, . . . . 
 
 105 
 
 
 Glow-worm, dressing of, . 
 
 1 06 
 
 
 Golden olive, to dye, 
 
 27 
 
 
 Gordon, dressing of, . . . 
 
 1 06 
 
 
 Grey Eagle, dressing of, . 
 
 107 
 
 
 Grey Heron, dressing of, . 
 
 107 
 
 
 Grubs, small, 
 
 77 
 
 
 ,, to tie, 
 
 76, 77 
 
 54, 55 
 
 Gut, 
 
 21 
 
 
 Gut loops, to make, 
 
 . 129, 30 
 
 
 to shape, . 
 
 31 
 
 10 
 
 to tie on, 
 
 30, 31 
 
 8,9 
 
 HACKLES, different kinds of, 
 
 9, 10 
 
 5 
 
 fastening off, 
 
 67 
 
 43 
 
 fine-fibred, .... 
 
 69 
 
 
 lefts, curved, .... 
 
 70 
 
 
 length of, . 
 
 7i 
 
 
 quantity at throat, 
 
 72 
 
 
 saddle, preferable, . 
 
 10 
 
 
 thick stemmed, 
 
 69 
 
 
 Throat, thick stemmed, . 
 
 70, 71 
 
 48 
 
 to double, .... 
 
 . 63-65 
 
 40-42 
 
 tying on, throat, 
 
 68 
 
 44,45 
 
 with curved fibres, . 
 
 69, 70 
 
 46,47 
 
 winding on, .... 
 
 66 
 
 43 
 
 Heads, finishing off, 
 
 9i, 92 
 
 68 
 
 forming, . 
 
 9i, 92 
 
 68 
 
 wool, ...... 
 
 Q2 
 
 
 Herl for bodies, 
 
 61 
 
 
 wings, 
 
 93, 94 
 
 70 
 
 Hooks, sizes of, 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 varieties of, . . 
 
 i 
 
 
 Horns, 
 
 90 
 
 67 
 
 JOCK SCOTT, dressing of, . 
 
 108 
 
 
 Judge, dressing of, 
 
 108 
 
 
 KNEECAP, dressing of, 
 
 109 
 
122 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 LADY CAROLINE, dressing of, . . . . 109 
 
 Lemon Grey, dressing of, no 
 
 MAClNTYRE, dressing of, 1 10 
 
 Mixed wings, 84 
 
 Mohair, 7 
 
 Moth, preserving feathers and furs from, . . 18 
 
 NAMES of parts of fly, 22 
 
 PARSON, dressing of, 1 1 1 
 
 Penpergwm Pet, dressing of, . . . in 
 
 Picker, 19 
 
 Pliers, . 19 
 
 Popham, dressing of, 112 
 
 Poynder, dressing of, 113 
 
 Purple King, dressing of, . . . . . 113 
 
 RED PIRATE, dressing of, 114 
 
 Ribbing, number of turns of, . . . 62 
 
 to fasten off, 62 
 
 to tie in for bodies, .... 50 
 
 SCISSORS, 1 8, 19 
 
 Silk floss, . .. . . . . . . 7 
 
 to wax, 29 
 
 Silks, tying, 6 
 
 Silver Doctor, dressing of, . . . . 115 
 
 Silver Grey, dressing of, 114 
 
 Skins, selecting, 17 
 
 Spirit, methylated, 20 
 
 Spring Grub, dressing of, 115 
 
 Strands, right and left, 40 
 
 Strips, right and left, 40 
 
 TAGS, commencement of, 32 1 1 
 
 fur for, .... . 36, 37 16, 17 
 
 ribbed with twist, 37 
 
 twist only, 37 
 
 tying on floss for, . 35 14, 15 
 
 tying on twist for, . . . 33, 34 12 
 
 Tails, preparing toppings for, .... 38 18 
 
 right and left strands for, . . . 39-4 1 20 
 
 tying on strands for, .... 45 25 
 
 tying on strips for, 43, 44 23, 24 
 
11VJJKX. 
 
 
 123 
 
 
 PACK 
 
 FIG. 
 
 Tails, tying on toppings for, 
 
 39 
 
 19 
 
 tying on whole feathers for, 
 
 42 
 
 22 
 
 whole feathers for, . 
 
 41 
 
 21 
 
 Thunder and Lightning, dressing of, 
 
 116 
 
 
 Tinsels, different kinds of, . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Tippet Grub, dressing of, . 
 
 116 
 
 
 Topping over, 
 
 . 89, 90 
 
 66,6 7 
 
 Twist, to strip, ... . . 
 
 33 
 
 
 VARNISH, 
 
 20 
 
 
 Vice, . .... 
 
 20 
 
 
 WAX, . 
 
 I 9 
 
 
 Whole feathers in bodies, . 
 
 72, 73 
 
 
 Whole feathers in tails, 
 
 42 
 
 
 Wings, built, ..... 
 
 8? 8q 
 
 6l-6q 
 
 ,, curves in, .... 
 
 - 78, 79 
 
 U J "3 
 
 golden pheasant toppings, 
 
 92 
 
 6 9 
 
 herl, peacock, 
 
 93 
 
 70 
 
 Important points in, 
 
 . . 78, 79 
 
 
 length of, .... 
 
 81 
 
 
 mixed, 
 
 84-86 
 
 6O-62 
 
 single strip, .... 
 
 . 79-82 
 
 56-58 
 
 ,, under, 
 
 . 83 
 
 59 
 
 whole feathers used in, . 
 
 . . 83 
 
 
 Wool butts, shape of, . 
 
 49 
 
 28 
 
 heads, 
 
 92 
 
 
 YELLOW CATERPILLAR, dressing of, . . . 117 
 
EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY PRESS 
 
 T. AND A. CONSTABLE 
 
 Printers to Her Majesty 
 
 MDCCCXCII 
 
Thirty years' experience as an all-round Angler. 
 
 FRANCIS M. WALBRAN, 
 
 practical Bugler, Hrttetic ffls Bresser, 
 
 and Manufacturer of every Description of Rods, Reels, Lines, and 
 General Fishing Tackle of the best quality only. 
 
 THE NORTHERN ANGLERS' DEPOT, 
 19 NEW STATION STREET, LEEDS. 
 
 Salmon and Sea Trout Flies, in great variety, and also dressed to any 
 pattern, including the whole of the ones mentioned in this book. 
 
 Trout and Grayling 1 Flies, more than 250 varieties always in stock, 
 both on gut or eyed hooks, also dressed to any patterns upon the shortest 
 notice by our own dressers, and from the very best of materials. 
 
 Having correspondents in all parts of the world, F. M. W. is able to give 
 advice, and supply flies and tackle suitable for any river, no matter where 
 situated. All Mr. Halford's patterns of floating flies dressed accurately 
 according to his directions. 
 
 Salmon Casts, 3 yards, made from carefully selected Gut, the best quality 
 ones being tested up to 7 Ibs. Prices, from is. 6d. to 75. 6d. each. 
 
 Walbran's Celebrated Greenheart Salmon and Sea Trout Rods 
 
 are noted for their superior quality and balance. Trices, from i6s. to 505. 
 
 Walbran's ' Wharfedale ' Fly Rod. Stained dull black to prevent 
 flashing, snake rings, two tops, one for fly and one for spinning, bronze 
 ferrules and winch fittings, brazed stoppers, in partition bag, Q|, io, 
 and ii ft., IGS. 6d. each ; 12 ft., us. 6d. each. Superior quality, three 
 tops, double brazed, solid winch fittings, etc., 2 is. 
 
 Walbran's ' Wensleydale ' Fly Rod, made entirely from well-seasoned 
 greenheart, stained olive green to prevent flashing, snake rings, ring to 
 hitch fly into, fully fitted in bag complete. 9$, ic4, and n ft., los. 6d. 
 each. 12 ft., us. 6d. each. 
 
 The above two rods are the wonder of every one who has tried them, being 
 made for use, not show. 
 
 Split Cane. Rods, in endless variety, prices from 245. to 4, 45., the 
 
 latter being guaranteed for two years. 
 
 Walbran's Whole Cane Fly Rod, made from choice selected canes, is 
 double brazed, solid winch fittings, two tops, II ft. in partition bag, 305. 
 
 A Copy Of ' Piscatorial Hints,' containing original articles by R. B. 
 Marscon (Editor of the Fishing Gazette), E. M. Tod, Andrew Murray, 
 Alfred Jardine, W. Murdoch, and F. M. Walbran. Crown quarto, 180 
 pages, 200 illustrations sent to any address on receipt of three penny 
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 nounce the above to be beyond doubt the most handsome, complete, and 
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 TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS-' WALBRAN, LEEDS.' 
 
 All Letters and Business Communications to be addressed as above. 
 
Hardy's Celebrated Fishing Rod and Tackle 
 
 Only Makers of the following Cane Built and Cane Built Steel Centre Rods. 
 
 The 'KELSON,' The 'HI REGAN,' and ' PENNELL ' CELEBRATED SALMON RODS. 
 
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 VICTOR' TROUT RODS, 
 
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 PATENT NEW PERFECT' REEL, 
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 BOOK COMBINED. 
 
 Salmon and Trout Flies, Gut, Hooks, and Materials for Dressing sent per return post, 
 THE BEST OF EVERYTHING 
 
 IS IN 
 
 Hardy's Illustrated Catalogue. 
 
 ISO Pages. POST FREE for Three Stamps to cover Postage. 
 
 HARDY BROTHERS, 
 
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 ALNWICK, ENGLAND. 
 
 WINNERS OF 31 GOLD AND OTHER MEDALS, ETC. 
 
CHAS. FARLOW & CO., 
 
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 MANUFACTURERS OF FIRST CLASS RODS AND TACKLE. 
 
 SALMON FLIES A SPECIALITY. 
 
 Every description of Material for making Salmon Flies kept in Stock. 
 Illustrated Catalogue for 1892 Gratis. 
 
 CHAS, FARLOW & CO., W Strand, London, W.C. 
 TO SALMON ANGLERS IN IRELAND 
 
 1, 
 
 Inventors and Sole Manufacturers of 'Flexible Grip' Salmon and Trout Rods (as used 
 by R. B. Marston, Esq., Editor Fishing Gazette, and leading anglers throughout the 
 Kingdom); the 'Ulster' Silk Lines; the 'Semper Flexilis' brand of Waterproof Fishing 
 Goods; the 'Perfect' Brogues; the ' Egeria,' 'Quickstep,' and 'Shore' Sea Fishing 
 Baskets ; Goat's Hair Sea Flies ; Self-fastening Drift Leads ; Short wading Stockings, etc. 
 
 IMPORTERS OF SILKWORM GUT. 
 
 General Catalogue, 66 pages, Illustrated with over 100 woodcuts, and containing 
 Fishing Calendar, and new Fishery Map of Ireland specially drawn for this work, by 
 
 J. Bartholomesv, F.R.G.S. Post free 3 stamps. 
 Supplementary List of Novelties, Post Free. 
 Annual Gut and Cast Line List, Post Free. 
 Samples of the noted ' Ulster ' Waterproof Lines, mounted on card. Post Free. 
 
 JOS. BRADDELL & SON, 
 
 Manufacturers of Prize Medal Fishing 1 Tackle, BELFAST. 
 
 The Fa rater's Gazette says : 'Messrs. Braddell are the largest fishing |tackle makers in 
 Ireland ; their flies and baits are well known and deservedly prized by sportsmen in all parts.' 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1811. 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 
 
 [Aug'64i 
 D LD 
 
 LD 21A-60m-4,'64 
 (E4555slO)476B 
 
 General Library 
 
 University of California 
 
 Berkeley