NEW ZEALAND 
 
 EMIGRANT. INVALID. AND TOUBTST,
 
 170 
 
 174 
 
 178 
 
 Three. KTVJ-S If 
 
 36|- 
 
 MJIW ZEA&AftD 
 
 stowing 
 CITMATIC ZONES 
 
 English Miles 
 
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 -WiOihg 
 
 166 longitude East 170 of Greenwich 
 
 174 
 
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 NEW ZEALAND 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND TOURIST. 
 
 M.D. Usiv. EDIN.; M.R.C.S. ESG.; M.D. NEW ZEALAND UNIVERSITY; F.R.G.S. 
 FELL. ROYAL EOT. Soc. EDIN. ; MEMBER ROYAL MED. Soc. EDIN. ; 
 FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLONIAL INSTITUTE, &c. 
 
 AUTHOR OP 
 
 " The Plants of Scripture," " The Poison Oak of California," 
 "Shakspeare and Euphuism," and other Essays. 
 
 ' The climate's delicate, the air most sweet, 
 
 'Fertile the Isle.' 
 
 WINTER'S TALE, III., ). 
 
 LONDON: 
 SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, 
 
 LIMITED, 
 
 5t. Ehmstan's Jtjouse, 
 
 FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET. 
 
 1890. 
 
 [All rights reserved.]
 
 LONDON" : 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 
 hTAMFORI) STREET AKD CHAUING CUOS3.
 
 Co 
 
 SIR WILLIAM FOX, K.O.M.G., J.P., ETC., 
 
 FORMERLY PREMIER OF NEW ZEALAND, 
 
 AND 
 
 LADY FOX, 
 
 THIS LITTLE BOOK IS DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, IN 
 GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF MUCH KINDNESS, 
 
 BV 
 
 THE AUTHOK. 
 
 149103 
 
 /^
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 IF an apology be deemed necessary for adding another 
 volume to the ever-increasing mass of literature relating 
 to the New Zealand of to-day it must be found in the 
 originality of the scope and plan of chapters ii. and v. 
 of this little book. In these have been set forth with 
 care and original research fruits of the author's nine 
 years' professional work in the colony the various 
 Climatic Zones into which New Zealand viewed as a 
 Health-Kesort is divisible, which are here classified for 
 the first time; and a fully detailed account of the 
 characters and therapeutic achievements, up to date, of 
 the principal Thermal Springs of the North Island. 
 
 The work of accurate investigation and trial of these 
 springs must go on all the time ; and it may be many 
 years before a book on the Thermal Springs of New 
 Zealand equal in value, for example, to " Sutro on the 
 Spas of Europe" can be produced. But I venture 
 to hope that this handbook, imperfect as it is, may 
 serve both the medical profession and the public, as a 
 useful introduction to the climatology and balneology 
 of New Zealand. The original title of the work was to 
 have been " Nine Years in New Zealand," and more 
 than half of the MS. was written before the present 
 .title was adopted ; therefore readers will understand, 
 and, I trust, pardon, any occasional incongruity between 
 the personal and descriptive styles. With a view of 
 rendering the book useful to the three classes of persons 
 specially addressed, each chapter has been made as 
 nearly as possible complete in itself. The emigrant
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 will find chapters L, iv., viii., ix., and xi. suited to his 
 requirements ; the invalid will be specially interested 
 in chapters ii., iv., and v. ; while the tourist may study 
 the whole book profitably, except the last chapter, which 
 is written for medical men alone. 
 
 Perhaps the critics may be reminded that the author 
 is fully conscious of many sins, both of omission and 
 commission, his valid excuse being that the MS. was 
 prepared amid many professional interruptions, and in 
 a provincial city far away from the central offices and 
 libraries where the latest and best information relating 
 to New Zealand is from time to time received. 
 
 The legislative and financial problems now being- 
 worked out in New Zealand merit more attention from 
 publicists than they receive. If the accomplished 
 author of " Greater Britain " the book which first 
 inspired me with a desire to visit the colonies should 
 bring out a new edition, I hope that he will devote a 
 large section to New Zealand. 
 
 It seems but fitting that I should here acknowledge 
 with gratitude the renovation of my health, due, under 
 the kind providence of a gracious God, to the health- 
 giving New Zealand air, and that for both my wife and 
 myself .1 should express our warmest thanks to our 
 many Auckland friends for all their kindness, sym- 
 pathy, and generous hospitality during our residence 
 there. 
 
 That New Zealand will very soon completely emerge 
 from her financial cloud into the full sunshine of 
 prosperity, and that she will become in time the 
 wealthiest and most influential, as she is now the 
 healthiest and most adventurous colony of the Austra- 
 lasian group, is the confident hope and expectation of 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 CASXIXG STREET, LIVERPOOL. 
 November 25th, 1889.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Anglo-Saxon race inclined to wander The colonies and 
 the " globe-trotter " Centrifugal and centripetal laws of 
 emigration Necessity of emigration for the British 
 Restrictions imposed by the United States gives the 
 colonies a chance New Zealand the best field Classes 
 of emigrants not wanted out there Who are wanted 
 Who are likely to succeed Outfit Various routes to the 
 colony Ordinary rates of wages Cost of living .. .. 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND, GENERAL AND LOCAL. 
 
 The differences of Australian and New Zealand climates not 
 generally known to consulting physicians The colonies 
 offer advantages over other health-resorts General clima- 
 tology and meteorology of New Zealand Effects of the 
 mountain ranges and forests The colony divisible into 
 lour climatic zones : 1. North Cape to Napier ; 2. Napier 
 to Hurunui ; 3. Hurunui to Stewart's Island ; 4. Alpine 
 ] 'lateau of North Island Local climatology of Auckland, 
 Whangarei, Napier, Palmerston, Nelson, Picton, Taranaki, 
 Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Queenstown, Inver- 
 car^ill Cautions to Invalids General Summary .. 14 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 
 
 The name, origin, and features of the Maori Tattooing 
 Language, with prose and poetical specimens Rhyme for 
 pronunciation History of Old NeWi Zealand Judge
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 FACE 
 
 Maning Causes of their decline Customs of tapu, muru, 
 utu, explained Ceremonies of korero, haka, taivji 
 Meaning of mana Bishop Selwyn on the Maori character 
 Old Mohi in " Our Maoris " Conversions to Christianity 
 Chivalry in war Future of the Maori race . . . . 39 
 
 CHxiPTER IV. 
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Its position, geographical and commercial importance The 
 " Corinth of the south " Third city in Australasia by 
 population Sheltered Waitemata Inlet Graving-docks, 
 large and small Picturesque approach to the city Public 
 buildings Grey collection of MSS. City government 
 Newspapers Developments of art, music, science, and 
 literature Eecreations Amusing anecdote of the para- 
 chutist Ostrich farm The schoolboy's account of the 
 bird Observance of Sunday Acclimatization of fauna 
 (birds, fishes, &c.) Growth of Auckland during nine years. 57 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE MINEBAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Seventy-three already analyzed Arranged in five classes 
 Description of the three oldest spas : Waiwera, Ta Aroha, 
 Eotorua The new town of Uotorua Its special arrange- 
 ments for visitors Priest's Bath Madame Rachel Blue 
 Bath Pain killer Lake House Baths Oil Bath 
 Wonders of Tikitere Hot waterfall, " Te Kute " Diseases 
 cured by the above Leprosy probably curable by them 
 The " season " for Rotorua thermal treatment Advice 
 to the Invalid, the Tourist, and the Invalid-Tourist .. 74 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND I EXCURSIONS TO THE HOT 
 LAKES AND TERRACES, AND TO THE WEST COAST SOUNDS. 
 
 Excursions to Rotonia via Tauranga in December, 1880 
 Tauranga and its sunset Oropi Beauty of the forest 
 along the Gorge Road Ohinemutu Native " loafers " 
 Bathing, laundry-work, and cooking al fresco Tikitapu 
 Bush Visit to Wairoa, Lake Tarawera, and the Terraces
 
 CONTENTS. XI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 White Terrace surpasses the Taj Mahal Geysers and 
 fumaroles Pink Terrace and luxurious bathing Return 
 in canoe down the swift hot stream Kaiwaka Fate of 
 the Tuhourangis Scenery of the Middle Island: lakes, 
 mountains, glaciers, fjords Lakes Wakatipu, Te Anan, and 
 Manapouri Annual trip by steamship Tarawera to the 
 West Coast Sounds My visit !in January, 1884 Excel- 
 lent arrangements Port Chalmers Cuttle Cove Dusky 
 Sound and Mr. Doherty Spinach discovered by Cook in 
 Dusky Sound Wet Jacket Arm Hector's theory of the 
 formation of these fjords Caswell Bay and its marble 
 Milford Sound : the Narrows, Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls 
 Ascent of Mitre Peak Sutherland the explorer Suther- 
 land Falls, 1900 feet Reischek and his wonderful dog 
 Return to the Bluff and Port Chalmers Entertainments 
 on board .. .. .. .. .. .. 97 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE VOLCANIC ERUPTION OF MOUNT TAKAWERA. 
 
 New Zealand a link in the chain of Pacific Ocean volcanoes 
 Principal volcanic eruptions from 1883 to 1886 Upheaval 
 of North Island Great fissure in the earth's crust, running 
 south-west to north-east Taupo volcanic zone : its craters 
 and hot springs The eruption of Mount Tarawera on 
 June 10, 1886 Premonitory signs Results of the erup- 
 tion Loss of life Deaths of C. A. Haszard, E. A. 
 Bainbridge, and Tuhoto The Wonderland that remains 
 Waiotapu Valley New Sinter Terraces forming Pink 
 Cauldron and Crow's Nest Geyser of Wairakei Mount 
 Horo-Horo Lake Taupo The new grand tour : Te 
 Aroha, Rotorua, Ruapehu National Park, to the Upper 
 Wanganui .. .. .. 120 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT, AND TUE SETTLEMENT OF THE LAND. 
 
 History of the colony Treaty of Waitangi, 1840 Several 
 centres of colonization Changes in the constitution 
 Responsible self-government granted in 1853 Governors 
 of New Zealand from 1840 to 1889 Premiers from 1853 
 to 1889 Premiers I have known Beneficent legislation 
 How the Colonial Debt was incurred Absolute solvency
 
 II CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 of the colony Laws regulating sale, lease, and transfer 
 of Crown, lands Success of perpetual leasing, and of the 
 village settlements Some previous training necessary for 
 success as a farmer .. .. .. .. .. .. 136 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Their growth Nourished on loans Eeactions and commercial 
 depression Improving prospects and return of prosperity 
 Churches Education : primary, secondary, and university 
 New Zealand University : its statutes, &c. Auckland 
 University College Technical School Otago Medical 
 School Lincoln School of Agriculture The press of New 
 Zealand Hospitals and asylums Police and prisons 
 Public works Post-office and other Government depart- 
 ments Telephones Government insurance Public trus- 
 tee Assignees in bankruptcy Friendly and building 
 societies Sailors' Homes and Rests .. 150 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 
 
 Natural products evolve certain industries The growth of 
 fifty years Exports now exceed imports in value Statis- 
 tics of the export of wool, meat (frozen and canned), 
 skins and hides, dairy produce, wheat and cereals, timber, 
 kauri gum, gold and silver, other metals, building stone, 
 coal, native flax, fungus, tan bark, petroleum, train-oil 
 Minor industries Reasons for the high tariff Policy of 
 bonuses for new cultures and industries The working- 
 man of New Zealand and the Chinese W. N. Blair on 
 labour and capital Patent law Inventiveness of New 
 Zealanders Humane legislation for women and children 
 in factories .. .. .. .. .. .. 178 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Its heartiness and unconventionality Tourist's mistakes and 
 exaggerations Ups and downs Ruling forces in society 
 Nouveaux riches The highest education and culture of
 
 CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 PAGE 
 
 England appreciated by colonial parents Neighbourly 
 kindness Fire ! Hospitality Effects of flesh-eating on 
 character The " larrikin " The cures for " larrikinism " 
 Recreation out of doors : cricket, football, tennis, cycling, 
 volunteering Indoor amusements: rinking, lectures, chess, 
 Shakspeare and dramatic clubs Music : concerts, amateur 
 vocalists, professional teacher A musical colony Art, 
 Artists, and Art Exhibitions Literature Amateur 
 science Happy and unhappy homes Drinking customs 
 " Lambing down " The slain by drink New Zealand 
 the country for a true home .. .. .. .. 197 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Openings for practice, and prospects of new comers Age at 
 which to emigrate Outfit Registration Fees in New 
 Zealand Clubs Working expenses of practice Diseases 
 prevalent among the Maoris Native remedies Singular 
 mode of resuscitation Letter from missionary on causes 
 of decrease of natives Diseases of the colonists Typhoid 
 fever : cause, prevention, and mortality The Exanthemata 
 Diphtheria maligna cases Poisoning from tinned meat 
 and from Ptomaines Phthisis pulmonalis Cases arrested 
 by New Zealand climate Phthisis laryngea Bronchitis 
 and cynanche benefited by Auckland climate Entozoa 
 common Caries of teeth No Ague in New Zealand 
 Case of Katipo bite Diseases arising from abuse of 
 alcohol and tobacco Lunacy in New Zealand Vital 
 statistics Conclusion . . 219
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 MAP OF NEW ZEALAND .... To face Title-page. 
 
 VIEW OF AUCKLAND HAEBOUR AND NORTH 
 
 SHORE page 24 
 
 MAP OF THE HOT LAKE DISTRICT 97 
 
 MAP OF THE WEST COAST SOUNDS 108 
 
 MAP OF THE TAUPO VOLCANIC ZONE 120
 
 NEW ZEALAND 
 
 EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND TOURIST. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 
 
 The Anglo-Saxon race inclined to wander The Colonies and the 
 " globe-trotter " Centrifugal and Centripetal laws of Emigration 
 Necessity of emigration for the British Restrictions imposed 
 by the United States give the colonies a chance New Zealand 
 the best field Classes of immigrants not wanted out there 
 Who are wanted Who are likely to succeed Outfit Various 
 routes to New Zealand Ordinary rates of wages Cost of 
 living. 
 
 THAT man is a migratory animal is evident from the 
 history of the past, and the development of coloniza- 
 tion in the present day. Of all races of mankind the 
 Anglo-Saxon race has shown that a genuine love for 
 home can co-exist with an ardent desire to explore new 
 regions, to conquer the difficulties presented both by 
 the barbarian inhabitant and by Nature, and even to 
 make a new and a permanent settlement in lands far 
 remote from his native soil. 
 
 Bound as this great race is, some day, to dominate 
 the civilized world, it behoves the stay-at-home Briton, 
 who, at his comfortable fireside, may read the news of 
 the globe, to keep himself well informed of the cha- 
 racteristics, resources, and progress of that " Greater 
 Britain " upon which the sun never sets. 
 
 This is essentially a travelling age ; and the English- 
 man of wealth and culture, who formerly used to confine 
 
 B
 
 2 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 his excursions to the continent of Europe, now takes 
 bolder and longer flights. He crosses the " herring 
 pond " to the United States and Canada ; he rushes 
 down to Cape Colony in eighteen days ; in three weeks 
 from leaving London he finds himself in India ; and 
 even the far-off Antipodes are becoming known to him. 
 The term " globe-trotter " has been coined to suit him 
 the origin of this word I leave to Dr. Murray to find 
 out which admirably conveys the manner of the hasty 
 tourist. Now that " Thomas Cook and Sons " have 
 annexed New Zealand, no great social distinction will 
 attach to the traveller who has " done " that country ; 
 but its beauties will become much more extensively 
 known, and they are on such a scale that nothing can 
 vulgarise them. 
 
 The " globe-trotter " is sometimes seized with a desire 
 to leave his foggy Albion, and settle for the rest of his 
 days in some balmy Eden of the Southern Pacific, or 
 some Neapolitan-like city, such as Auckland, and when 
 he carries out this idea he seldom regrets his choice. 
 
 Feeling grateful to New Zealand for the renovation of 
 my health, which was much broken down in 1879, and 
 having made many careful observations of the me- 
 teorology, mineral springs, and various Zones of Climate 
 of that country, I have incorporated these and other 
 results of nine years' experience in this little Hand- 
 book for the Emigrant, Tourist, and Invalid. In a 
 work of this scope it is not desirable to enter at length 
 into the native question, colonial history, colonial 
 politics, or debatable problems of political economy. I 
 have only introduced such matters to such an amount 
 as would make the book complete. Such features of 
 social life as are discussed in these pages are treated 
 candidly and impartially, with a sincere desire to 
 
 " Naught extenuate 
 Nor aught set down in malice." 
 
 It is my conviction, based upon a happy experience, 
 that derives some value from my having resided in the 
 course of my life in three quarters of the world, that
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 3 
 
 there is no country over which our grand old flag waves, 
 where a Briton can make as comfortable a home as 
 he can in New Zealand. If an invalid, he must make 
 a careful selection of the locality ; and this work will 
 supply the information needed. 
 
 But let us turn to the question of emigration, and the 
 need for it. 
 
 In the present day we may clearly distinguish two 
 general laws regulating emigration and immigration 
 a centrifugal law and a centripetal law. By the force 
 of the former law, the Englishman, a citizen of the 
 greatest maritime empire of all time, is impelled to 
 explore unknown seas and lands, to colonize and to 
 trade in all parts of the world. Geography being now 
 taught in schools more intelligently than of yore, and 
 books of thrilling adventure firing the imagination of 
 youth, boys and girls become familiar with the de- 
 scription of foreign countries, and long to visit them. 
 A love for travel is characteristic of the two great 
 branches of the Anglo-Saxon race ; but the Englishman 
 will colonize, while the American merely stays for a 
 time. Germany is now waking up to her need of 
 colonies, incited doubtless by the irresistible power 
 of this Centrifugal Law, which 1 has gained for little 
 England her glorious colonial empire. 
 
 On the other hand there is a Centripetal Law, which 
 counterbalances, but only to a slight extent, the 
 Centrifugal Law. When the Briton has prospered in the 
 Colonies, in the United States, or in foreign countries, he 
 often retires to London or to some part of his native 
 country to end his days. Or, not being able to leave 
 the land of his adoption, he sends his sons and 
 daughters "Home" to be educated. Every year a 
 larger number of highly cultured Americans adopt 
 England as their home. The marriage of American 
 ladies with the nobility of England exhibits this 
 centripetal tendency. And it is more and more 
 becoming the fashion for the wealthy Australian to 
 settle in England, become a member of a leading 
 London club, and enter Parliament. Let me here 
 
 B 2
 
 4 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 observe that the affectionate and becoming expression 
 " Home " is applied to Great Britain throughout the 
 Australasian colonies. The highest standard of every 
 department of knowledge is supposed to exist at 
 " Home," and I am quite convinced that the colonies 
 are both loyal to the Crown and eager to form their 
 centres of culture upon British models. 
 
 Seeing that the area of Great Britain, as it is now 
 parcelled out, is insufficient to support our population, 
 increasing as it does by more than 300,000 persons 
 annually, after allowing for loss by death and by 
 emigration, we must all feel glad that now we recognize 
 emigration to be a positive necessity to avert a socialistic 
 revolution, we have a " Greater Britain " beyond the 
 seas, where 
 
 " A man is a man if he is willing to toil, 
 And the humblest may gather the fruits of the soil." 
 
 It is calculated by A. McDougal of Manchester that 
 at least five and a half millions of our fellow country- 
 men, above the grade of paupers, live in miserable 
 poverty, huddled together in stifling courts and alleys, 
 living from hand to mouth, and never sure of three 
 days' consecutive employment. Another alarming but 
 true statement is made by an unexceptionable authority 
 on statistics, viz., that during the last quarter of a 
 century the foreign population of England has increased 
 by 135 per cent. England is now almost the only 
 civilized country that admits all nationalities, whether 
 paupers or not, to settle within her territory, without 
 any restriction whatever. This very large immigration 
 of foreigners has not only lowered the wages (as in the 
 east end of London) of English handicraftsmen to 
 starvation point, but has left and is leaving a large 
 residuum of helpless foreign-born paupers to be sup- 
 ported by the poor rates in London, and in the large 
 provincial towns. In some lines of industry, I am in- 
 formed that the Germans are actually crowding out our 
 own working-men. 
 
 The time is come when statesmen and philanthropists
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 5 
 
 should use all their energies to grapple with these sad 
 facts, and should regard as a means of relief the vast 
 field presented for immigration by our colonies. State- 
 assisted or State-regulated emigration should be con- 
 sidered as already a " burning question." Meantime 
 the Self-help Emigration Societies of London, Liverpool, 
 Manchester, and other cities, are doing a good work, 
 though on a small scale, in the right direction. 
 
 I feel strongly that now that the United States is 
 adopting measures restrictive of immigration, which 
 bear more hardly on our own population than on that 
 of other European countries, the time for our colonists 
 to show a generous spirit, and for the imperial Govern- 
 ment to reciprocate it, has arrived. 
 
 Nothing can strengthen the bonds of love between 
 the mother country and her children more than the 
 settlement in the colonies of steady industrious men 
 and women, who will remain under the same sovereign 
 and the same old flag, and who can never forget that 
 both they and we are of one blood, one language, and, 
 in a broad sense, of one religion. It is in the hope of 
 placing the advantages offered by the picturesque, fertile, 
 and healthy colony of New Zealand before the British 
 public, and of dispelling some erroneous impressions 
 conveyed by mere passing travellers most of whom 
 commit their crude experiences to print on their return 
 that I have ventured this little barque upon the ocean 
 of literature. 
 
 Apart from a roving spirit and love of adventure, 
 men leave the old country of their own free will only 
 for one cause " to better themselves," in pocket, health, 
 social or political position, or to work out a new line 
 for themselves in life which they have not attempted 
 before. To a Briton who wishes to remain under his 
 native standard, the Australasian colonies offer a 
 healthier climate than that of India or of the West 
 Indies. New Zealand, moreover, presents a magnificent 
 choice of climates as I shall demonstrate in chapter ii. 
 in none of which exists either the arctic cold of Canada, 
 or the broiling intense solar heat of the Cape or of
 
 6 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Australia. Statistics show that the land there is the 
 most productive, when tilled, of all the agricultural 
 colonies ; and that, while no spot in the whole of the 
 three islands is more than seventy-five miles from the sea, 
 none is more than ten miles from a lake, stream, or 
 river of drinkable water. The emigrant need have no 
 fear of native, coolie, or Chinese cheap labour in New 
 Zealand. The influx of the yellow man has been 
 checked by an impost of 10 per head per annum. 
 The Maoris work for themselves, but seldom for others, 
 and are not fond of manual labour as yet. 
 
 On landing in a New Zealand port, the new arrival 
 will scarcely notice anything foreign or ' un-English ' 
 around him, except, indeed, the absence of seedy and 
 ragged boys and girls, and out-at-elbows idlers, who in 
 the old country beset the traveller to get money from 
 him by begging or by trivial and unasked attentions. 
 The cheerful, well-fed, well-clothed appearance of 
 working men, women and children is also ' un-English.' 
 
 It is well to point out, now that we have arrived at the 
 stage of the desirability of New Zealand for the emi- 
 grant, that by the latest private and official sources of 
 information, the only classes of immigrants required in 
 the colony are : (1) female domestic servants ; (2) 
 farmers with capital ; (3) agricultural labourers ; (4) 
 shepherds and herdmen. No assistance in paying any 
 part of the passage-money is now given by the Govern- 
 ment, which is carefully retrenching its expenses. All 
 other trades, occupations, and professions are now so 
 full in the colony that it is difficult for a new arrival to 
 find work. 
 
 Certain facts are forgotten sometimes by too eloquent 
 emigration agents ; for instance, (1) that the birth-rate 
 in New Zealand is very high, amounting in some years 
 to 38'5 per cent., and that the colony will complete its 
 first half-century in 1890. It follows, as a consequence, 
 that there are hundreds of New Zealand boys and girls, 
 all of very fair education, ready and eager to fill 
 situations, to enter offices, learn trades, and to get into 
 the large Civil Service of the Government, which also
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 7 
 
 practically includes the great Education Department. 
 Lawyers, teachers, clerks, governesses, lady helps, 
 clergymen, artists, and even musicians are not well 
 advised to go out just now to settle in New Zealand. I 
 say " even musicians," because all the cities and towns 
 of the colony are musical. Clergymen with high testi- 
 monials from home can sometimes obtain an appoint- 
 ment, generally of smaller value than that they left 
 in England. Barristers, solicitors, and attorneys are 
 qualified by study and examination within the colony. 
 There is also a theological training college, providing 
 clergymen for the Maoris and the country districts of 
 New Zealand. 
 
 No complete medical education has as yet been given 
 in the colony, though the University of New Zealand 
 has the power to confer the degrees of M.B. and M.D., 
 after a course of study and several examinations, 
 equal to those of Edinburgh University. It is said 
 that in four or five years the first undergraduate will 
 be duly qualified for his degree. There are now (1889) 
 495 medical practitioners on the colonial register, and 
 107 dentists, the white population being estimated at 
 610,000. Openings do occur here and there for doctors, 
 and sometimes with a minimum income guaranteed, but 
 they are quickly snapped up. In the Church and in 
 Medicine the colonists prefer men fresh from home; 
 but in other lines the " new chum " has to yield to the 
 man who has had already some colonial experience. 
 
 Nor do colonists want any men who have been 
 failures in the old country. They are good-hearted 
 enough to give such a man " another chance," but woe 
 to him if he neglects or misuses it or fails at it 
 altogether! They are sharp and shrewd in judging 
 character, and he does not get another such opening. 
 Smartness and common sense are essential to success in 
 New Zealand. Even an honest and faithful employe, if 
 dull and slow, may have to give place to a " smarter " 
 man. But the bright and bracing climate stimulates 
 the faculties of the whole nature of the immigrant, so 
 that he who has been slow, unintelligent, and depressed
 
 8 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 in England, becomes quick, lively, hopeful, and ener- 
 getic in the " Britain of the South." 
 
 Having seen several disastrous wrecks of men and 
 women shunted, as it were, from England on to this 
 colony, I do not blame New Zealanders for indignantly 
 protesting against the practice that has grown up at 
 home of exiling the family scapegrace or ne'er-do-weel to 
 their country, simply because it is geographically the 
 most distant point he can reach. The colony is not a 
 safe reformatory for the habitual drunkard, gambler, or 
 profligate. Such a man will find boon companions to 
 share his vices so long as he has a shilling to spend. 
 The end is the hospital, the refuge, the asylum, the 
 prison, or the suicide's grave. It is not fair to the 
 honest and hard-working citizens to send among them 
 men who spread a blight around them wherever they 
 wander. The hopefullest of mothers of these prodigal 
 sons should remember that truest of Horatian maxims 
 
 "Coelum, non animum mutant, qui trans mare currant." 
 
 A young, healthy, single man, of good morals and 
 principles, energetic and ready to "rough it," with a 
 handicraft of some kind at which he is expert, is the 
 type of emigrant that will succeed in New Zealand. If 
 he leaves old England with hope in his bosom, faith 
 in his heart, and love to his fellow-man beaming from 
 his eyes, always ready to do a good turn, handy and 
 hard-working, and skilled in his own particular trade, he 
 will not fail of getting remunerative employment. 
 With a very small capital he can buy land on one of 
 the easy systems described in chapter vii. ; he will 
 marry a practical, sensible colonial girl (splendid house- 
 wives they make !) and having given his children a 
 free education better than he ever had, will place them 
 out in life much earlier than he could have done in 
 England. The sons that take to farming will have the 
 advantage of knowing how to farm in New Zealand 
 not by any means the same thing as English farming ; 
 and thus a second generation will grow up, industrious, 
 prosperous, and contented.
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 9 
 
 The poet Campbell had the right idea of this type of 
 emigrant. 
 
 " The pride to rear an independent shed, 
 And give the lips we love unborrowed bread; 
 To see a world from shadowy forest won, 
 In youthful beauty wedded to the sun. 
 To skirt our home with harvests widely sown, 
 And call the blooming landscape all our own ; 
 Our children's heritage, in prospect long; 
 These are the hopes high-minded hopes and strong 
 That beckon England's wanderers o'er the brine, 
 To realms where foreign constellations shine." 
 
 If a man desirous of farming land arrives in the 
 colony with capital, let him put his money into the 
 Government Savings Bank, where it will earn four 
 per cent., and travel up the country, getting employ- 
 ment wherever he can for a few months, until he has 
 gained the necessary experience. Just now numerous 
 " bargains " in the shape of well-improved farms are to 
 be picked up, but as the colony gradually rights itself 
 after the late depression these will be absorbed. The 
 newcomer must be careful not to pay too high a price 
 for an improved farm. The small capitalist, equally 
 with the man who has only a few pounds, will have to 
 work hard upon his land and await results. Crown 
 land for sale is generally remote from towns, and 
 requires clearing, fencing, " burning off," sowing, &c., 
 before any living can be made out of it. The cry of 
 the New Zealand farmer now is, " Oh, that we had 
 cheap labour ! " And the agricultural labourers that 
 may go out there should take this hint, so that no 
 Oriental race may gradually creep in ; for New 
 Zealand should be kept for the European races to 
 people and possess. 
 
 The best time of year for the intending settler to 
 arrive in New Zealand is during the months of Sep- 
 tember, October, and November for the North Island, 
 and at any time during the summer (November to 
 March) for the Middle (usually but erroneously termed 
 the "South") Island. 
 
 His outfit should include a large stock of clothes, his
 
 10 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 books, tools, and any labour-saving machines he may 
 have, for there is a high protective tariff in New 
 Zealand. If he contemplates making his abode in 
 Auckland, Napier, or New Plymouth, he should bring 
 lighter clothes, both outer and inner garments, than he 
 would wear in England. For other parts the ordinary 
 English clothes will suffice. For the long summer the 
 helmet is inevitable. Umbrellas and waterproofs 
 should not be forgotten, because of the high price of 
 these articles in the colony. Eeally good (not half- 
 worn) furniture should also be taken or sent by ship to 
 New Zealand if economy is an object. 
 
 We now come to the choice of routes for New 
 Zealand. The old days of a three to six months' sea 
 voyage by sailing ship are drawing to a close, for the 
 two companies who are running large steamers, 
 carrying mails, direct to the colony, carry steerage 
 passengers for the very moderate rate of 16 to 21, 
 giving three liberal meals per diem, plenty of cabin 
 space, and landing them in from thirty-seven to forty- 
 four days from port to port. I can bear witness from 
 personal knowledge, having returned to England on 
 the Tainui, that the Shaw, Savill, and Albion Company 
 treat this and the other two classes of passengers most 
 generously as to food and accommodation. 
 
 1. This company start their steamers, the Araiva, 
 Tainui, Ionic, and Coptic, each from 4400 to 5000 tons, 
 on alternate fortnights with those of the New Zealand 
 Shipping Company, the Aorangi, Ruapehu, Tongariro, 
 and Rimutaka, all magnificent and fast vessels of 
 4170 tons. The steamers leave the West India Docks 
 on Thursday and call at Plymouth on the Saturday for 
 mails and passengers. Going out, they all call at Tene- 
 rifife (Santa Cruz), Cape Town, and Hobart (Tasmania). 
 On the homeward voyage they visit Rio de Janeiro 
 and Teneriffe. The first-class fare is 63, return 105 
 and 115, the second-class 40, return 60. 
 
 2. Another route is via the Mediterranean, Suez 
 Canal, Red Sea, and Indian Ocean, by the magnificent 
 steamers of the Orient and the Peninsular and Oriental
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 11 
 
 companies ; the average length of the outward voyage 
 being forty days to Sydney, thence by Union Company 
 of New Zealand steamer, or by the San Francisco mail 
 steamer, four and a half to five days to Auckland. 
 Fares, first-class 63 and 70, second-class 42, 
 steerage seventeen guineas to 22. Travellers who can 
 choose the best season for passing through the Eed 
 Sea, say, January and February, and who can take 
 plenty of time, may enjoy this route by stopping at 
 Naples to see Pompeii, &c., or at Port Said to see 
 Alexandria, Cairo, and the Pyramids, and proceeding 
 by the next following steamer (fortnightly) of the line 
 they have selected. There are fewer long stretches of 
 ocean upon this route than on the first one described. 
 
 3. Lastly, we have the fast mail route via New York 
 across the United States by the Union and Central 
 Pacific railroads to San Francisco, thence by American 
 built steamers to Honolulu, Tutuila (Samoa), and 
 Auckland. By this mail I have often received letters 
 on the thirty-fourth day after their despatch from 
 Liverpool. But no one would for choice travel across 
 at this speed. To those tourists who do not regard 
 expense much, who dread sea-sickness, can sleep on the 
 railroad journey, or have friends in the United States, 
 this is the best route. The through fare, first-class, 
 from London or Liverpool to Auckland, Wellington, 
 Dunedin, or Christchurch is 66 to 72, but to this 
 must be added cost of sleeping-car, drawing-room car, 
 and meals on the train, and hotel and carriage expenses. 
 Probably 110 would cover the whole trip. The 
 most agreeable season of the year for this route is, 
 going west, to start in July, August, or September, 
 and, going homewards, to start in March, April, 
 or May. 
 
 It is interesting to see that Jules Verne's romance is 
 now a realizable fact, for a traveller can go round the 
 world in eighty days. 
 
 As Messrs. Thomas Cook and Sons have now included 
 New Zealand in their excursion scheme, travel to the 
 colony and through it will be simplified and cheapened.
 
 12 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 A round-the-world ticket, to go by one route and 
 return by another, can be purchased for 140. 
 
 To the visitor I would say further, " obtain and use 
 any good letters of introduction to New Zealand 
 residents that you can get." To the emigrant and 
 intending settler I would say the same, but add, " do 
 not base any hopes of immediate employment upon 
 them." 
 
 The following definite official information respecting 
 the wages now prevailing in the colony, the cost of the 
 necessaries of life, of clothing, house-rent, &c., will be 
 found useful by the emigrant. 
 
 WAGES BY THE WEEK, WITH BOARD. 
 
 Auckland. Wellington. Canterbury. Otago. 
 
 2s. to 20s. 15s. to 20s. 12s. to 20s. 15s. to 20s. 
 
 Domestic ser-) 
 vants . ./ 
 Laundresses . 12s. 15s. 12s. 14s. 10s. 15s. 10s. 15s. 
 
 r-) ... , n 10 , n 1C . , n 
 
 vants . ./ 8s " 10s ' 8s> 12s> 10s ' los * 10s> 
 
 WAGES PER WEEK THROUGHOUT THE COLONY, WITHOUT BOABD. 
 
 Bakers ..... 20s. to 45s. 
 
 Butchers .... 25s. 50s. 
 
 Shoemakers .... 30s. 50s. 
 
 Tailors ..... 30s. 40s. 
 
 WAGES PEE DAY THROUGHOUT THE COLONY, WITHOUT BOARD. 
 
 Blacksmiths 
 
 Bricklayers 
 
 Brickmakers 
 
 Carpenters 
 
 Painters 
 
 Masons . 
 
 Shipwrights 
 
 Miners. 
 
 General labourers 
 
 7s. to 12s. 
 7s. 12s. 
 6s. 8s. 
 6s. 10s. 
 6s. 9s. 
 6s. to 10s. 
 8s. 12s. 
 6s. 12s. 
 5s. ,,, 7s. 
 
 Cost of Living in New Zealand. 
 
 1. House-rent is perhaps the heaviest item in the 
 expenditure of the working man. The rent of a three- 
 roomed cottage (of wood) is about 6s. ; of larger houses,
 
 MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 13 
 
 suitable for workmen, from 8s. to 14s. per week in 
 towns ; in the country, 4s. to 10s. per week. Furnish- 
 ing is from seventy-five to 100 per cent, more expensive 
 than at home. 
 
 2. Board and lodging may be had in any of the 
 towns for a single adult for 15s., 17s. 6d., or 1 
 per week. 
 
 3. Clothing of the cheaper qualities, most worn by 
 the working classes, is from fifteen to twenty-five per 
 cent, dearer than at home. But the more expensive 
 materials, broadcloth, silk, flannel, &c., are fully thirty 
 to fifty per cent, higher. 
 
 4. There are numerous benefit societies, the rules of 
 which provide medical attendance and medicine in 
 sickness free to members. Medical fees and the price 
 of drugs are higher than in England. 
 
 5. By means of the building societies a frugal and 
 constantly employed workman or tradesman can, on 
 easy terms, become possessor of a freehold house and 
 allotment in three to seven years. 
 
 COST OF PROVISIONS, KETAIL, IK NEW ZEALAND. 
 (Liable to fluctuations.) 
 
 
 Auckland. 
 
 Wellington. 
 
 Christchurch. 
 
 Dunedin. 
 
 Beef, per Ib 
 
 2d. to 6d. 
 
 2d. to 5d. 
 
 3d. to Gd. 
 
 4d. to 6d. 
 
 Mutton .... 
 
 lid. 4d. 
 
 lid. 4d. 
 
 lid. 4d. 
 
 2fZ. Sid. 
 
 Butter 
 
 V 1/3 
 
 6d. I/ 
 
 9d. Wd. 
 
 lOd. l/ 
 
 Cheese , 
 
 6d. Id. 
 
 4d. 9d. 
 
 3d. 6d. 
 
 6d. Id. 
 
 Tea 
 
 1/10 2/10 
 
 1/6 3/ 
 
 1/8 3/ 
 
 a/ 3/ 
 
 Coffee .... 
 
 1/1 1/10 
 
 1/3 1/8 
 
 1/10 2/ 
 
 1/8 1/10 
 
 Sugar .... 
 
 3d. 4d. 
 
 2d. 4d. 
 
 l>id. 4d. 
 
 3id. 4id. 
 
 Bread, per 4-lb. loaf . . 
 
 3+d. 6d. 
 
 4*d. Id. 
 
 4d. 5d.. 
 
 6d. 
 
 Milk, per quart . . . 
 
 3id. 
 
 4d. 
 
 5d. 
 
 Sd. 
 
 Potatoes, per cwt. . . 
 
 V ,, 6/ 
 
 3/ 5/ 
 
 3/ 5/ 
 
 5d. 
 
 Coal, per ton .... 
 
 25/ 50/ 
 
 30/ 50/ 
 
 32/ 42/ 
 
 30/ to 55/ 
 
 Firewood varies, according to season of the year, and proximity to forests, from 
 10*. to 2 per ton.
 
 14: NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND: GENEEAL AND LOCAL. 
 
 Differences of Australian and New Zealand climate not sufficiently 
 recognized by consulting physicians Advantages of the colonies 
 for the British invalid General climate of New Zealand 
 Topography Meteorology Effects of mountain ranges and 
 forests Muggy weather and its antidote Four subordinate 
 zones of climate : 1. North Cape to Napier ; 2. Napier to 
 Hurunui; 3. Hurunui to South Island; 4. Alpine Plateau of 
 North Islands-Particular features and suitability to various 
 pulmonary diseases Auckland, Whangarei, Napier, Palmerston, 
 Nelson, Picton, Christchurch, Dunedin, Invercargill Cautions 
 to invalids General summary. 
 
 THE previous chapter having been chiefly devoted to 
 the emigrant, we now turn to the interests of the health- 
 seekers, of whom hundreds are now familiarized more 
 or less by personal experience with the bright skies and 
 perpetual sunshine of the Australasian colonies. Travel 
 by the routes we have described being now made both 
 moderate in cost and luxurious in every detail ; the 
 horrid mal-de-mer having been reduced to its minimum 
 by the shortened passage between the ports of call ; 
 and hotel accommodation, railway, steamer, and coach 
 facilities having permeated even the wildest parts of 
 such recent acquisitions as New Zealand and Tasmania, 
 the invalid may now regard the former colony as an 
 easily accessible health resort. 
 
 Fashionable consultants in my own profession have 
 been in the habit hitherto of sending their consump- 
 tive or nerve-exhausted patients to New Zealand or 
 Australia, chiefly for the sake of the voyage. But they 
 have not given sufficient attention to the differences 
 of climate between (1) Australia, Tasmania, and New
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 15 
 
 Zealand, and (2) between the different districts of the 
 last-mentioned colony. While Australia, as a whole, 
 is a much drier country than New Zealand, less 
 stormy, and therefore more suitable for some forms of 
 consumption, experience shows that it is so violent 
 and sudden a contrast to the English climate as to 
 make the transition injurious to many consumptive 
 and debilitated invalids. The experience during the 
 first few days after landing of a hot wind in Sydney or 
 in Adelaide, or of a " southerly burster " in Melbourne, 
 makes a sick man regret the termination of his ocean 
 voyage. But on the inland mountain plateaux, such as 
 the Darling Downs of Queensland, health is often 
 restored, even in a pronounced case of the second stage 
 of consumption, and life in that dry bracing air, though 
 under a hot sun, becomes enjoyable. It is my duty to 
 lay before my readers, both lay and medical, the obser- 
 vations and conclusions derived from nine years' sojourn 
 as to the Four General Climatic Zones into which 
 New Zealand may be divided for the purposes of the 
 valetudinarian and his advisers. 
 
 The British who travel for health become in time 
 tired of foreign countries, and look round the world for 
 a region where pure and bracing or mild air, interesting 
 natives, beautiful scenery, good water for drinking, 
 mineral baths, their accustomed food, convenient ex- 
 cursions, and pleasant society may be enjoyed among 
 people of their own language. All these advantages, 
 together with an unsurpassed climate, are to be found 
 in New Zealand. When tired of the "mistral" or 
 "bise," of the noise and dust of the Kiviera, of the 
 demoralizing gaming-tables, and of the parasites who 
 hang on to the visitors at all foreign resorts, the invalid 
 of the future will fly on the wings of steam to the 
 realm of the Southern Cross, and 
 
 " By the long wash of Australasian seas," 
 
 will find in New Zealand, at Auckland, the Bay of 
 Islands, Napier, Eotorua, or Nelson, a new world of 
 calm delight, in a balmy yet invigorating atmosphere.
 
 16 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 The General Climate of New Zealand. 
 
 The three islands forming, with three groups of islets 
 (Auckland Islands, Chatham Islands, Kermadee Islands), 
 the colony of New Zealand extend from north to south 
 through 13 of S. Lat., and from east to west through 
 nearly 13 of E. Long. The colony possesses a coast- 
 line of over 3000 miles, and mountain chains run 
 through all the three islands, North, Middle, and South 
 or Stewart's Island. In the North Island the chief 
 mountains are in the centre and near the east coast ; 
 in the Middle Island they are near the west coast ; so 
 that the plains of the North and of the Middle Islands 
 are on opposite sides. On glancing at the map, the 
 reader will notice the singular resemblance in figure of 
 the whole colony to Italy reversed, and amputated, as 
 it were, from the continent of Europe. The promontories 
 of Gargano and of Ancona in the older country seem 
 whimsically reproduced in those of Akaroa and of Port 
 Chalmers in the new. The active volcano Vesuvius 
 has its counterpart in Mount Tongariro, and the more 
 recent volcano, Mount Tarawera. The climate of the 
 Auckland provincial district is not unlike that of South 
 Italy and of Sicily. I need not enlarge on other 
 correspondences. The area of the whole colony is 
 104,000 square miles, about one-sixth less than the 
 entire area of Great Britain and Ireland. As no point 
 in the colony is more than 75 miles from the coast, 
 and as two straits Cook's Strait, thirteen miles across, 
 and Foveaux Straits, fifteen miles wide, separate the 
 three islands, the climate of the colony, as a whole, is 
 insular, and tolerably equable. It is certainly warmer 
 than that of Great Britain, for it lies within the 
 southern temperate zone. The average temperature 
 for the whole year is, in the North Island, 57, in the 
 Middle Island, 52. For the whole colony the mean 
 temperature for the summer is 63, for the winter 48, 
 for the spring 55, and for the autumn 57. In the 
 northern part of the North Island there is no true
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 17 
 
 spring nor autumn, but only a hot season November to 
 April, inclusive ; and a cold and wet season, May 
 to October, inclusive. During three-quarters of the 
 year a healthy man may sleep out of doors with 
 impunity to health, if furnished with simply a blanket 
 and a mackintosh, anywhere in the North Island. 
 
 The most important fact for invalids is the smallness 
 of the mean daily range of temperature, which is from 
 15 to 20 only, showing great equability of climate. 
 Next to this, the average annual rainfall must be 
 studied, for it varies much in different districts, as the 
 following table will show : 
 
 MEAN ANNUAL RAINFALL, FOR EIGHTEEN YEARS, ENDING 1884. 
 (In inches, omitting decimals.) 
 
 North Island. 
 
 Auckland ... 45 
 
 Taranaki ... 58 
 
 Napier .... 37 
 
 Wellington . 50 
 
 South Island. 
 
 Christchurch . . 25 
 
 Dunedin ... 32 
 
 Southland ... 43 
 
 Hokitika . 112 
 
 The principal towns of New Zealand are all abundantly 
 supplied with good drinking water, whereas the 
 Australian capitals, lying along the edge of a sun-baked 
 continent, often suffer from drought, and have to 
 obtain their potable water from a distance at a large 
 expense. The New Zealand Government has an efficient 
 Meteorological Department, the weather reports being 
 telegraphed every morning at nine o'clock to the chief 
 at Wellington from twenty -five stations at various 
 elevations, and then posted up at all the principal ports 
 and inland towns, together with Captain Edwin's fore- 
 casts of the weather, about two-thirds of which have 
 been verified in Auckland, during the time I resided 
 there. 
 
 Periods of lasting drought in New Zealand are un- 
 known. Only in two instances during the last twenty 
 years do the meteorological records at any one station 
 show that a whole month passed without rain a fact 
 very encouraging to the farmer who is thus assured of 
 water for his crops. The region north of Auckland 
 
 c
 
 18 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 comes within the limits of the winter sub-tropical rain- 
 fall, but in the Middle and South Islands the rain is 
 distributed more equally over all the months of the 
 year. On the west coast rain is more prevalent in 
 spring and on the east coast in summer. The table on 
 p. 17 shows remarkable differences between the rain- 
 falls at different places on or about the same parallel of 
 latitude ; for instance, Napier on the east has only half 
 the rain of New Plymouth (Taranaki) on the west, 
 while Hokitika on the west of the Middle Island has 
 four and a half times the amount that falls at Christ- 
 church on the east. 
 
 The proximity of Mount Egmont (8260 feet) to New 
 Plymouth, and of the Southern Alps to Hokitika account 
 for this fact, and so, in like manner, for other examples. 
 It should be noted that the mountains of the North 
 Island are still mostly covered with forest " bush " it 
 is called by colonists but those of the Middle Island 
 are open, well grassed with " tussock," and can be used 
 for pasture. But so quickly are the forests of the 
 Auckland district being cut down for the valuable 
 Kauri pine (Dammara Aiistralis) that a distinct decrease 
 in the average annual rainfall there has been noticed 
 already, and is still going on. As a slight means of 
 comparison as to rainfall, I may mention that during 
 1882 rain fell on 191 days in Auckland, on 166 in 
 Wellington, and on 187 in Dunedin. 
 
 The winds most prevalent round the coasts of the 
 colony are from the west, south-west, and south. When 
 a storm centre passes to the south of New Zealand, 
 westerly winds prevail, and they are always cold. But 
 when the centre of barometric depression goes round 
 the North Cape (see map No. 1) the result is that 
 north-east winds strike the east coast, bringing with 
 them clouds, rain, and warm mist. This forms the 
 weather called " muggy " by the Aucklanders and 
 others, which is disagreeably enervating as long as it 
 lasts. After three or four days it is followed by its 
 exact opposite, a cold bracing south-west wind with dry 
 weather and a clear blue sky. In winter this south-
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 19 
 
 west wind in the Middle and South Islands is accom- 
 panied with heavy storms of rain and snow. 
 
 It is really astonishing how cheerfully one fresh 
 from the gloom of wet days in London, Liverpool, 
 Manchester, Glasgow, or other huge smoky cities, can 
 wait indoors in New Zealand for the cessation of a 
 rain-storm. There is almost always a glimpse of blue 
 sky somewhere and what a blue! Read Froude's 
 eloquent description in " Oceana." And there is an 
 exhilaration in the air, only temporarily veiled by the 
 transient " muggy " weather. 
 
 As most health-seekers leave England for the 
 prevention, alleviation, or cure of some pulmonary 
 disease, my classification of the various belts of climate 
 in this colony now for the first time attempted is 
 based upon their adaptiveness, suitability, or unsuit- 
 ability for invalids coming under this head, as well as 
 for those whose nerve-centres require a change of 
 climate and scenery. 
 
 The foregoing facts concerning the general climate of 
 New Zealand will already afford some useful hints to 
 the reader as to choice of locale. 
 
 While it would not be quite accurate to establish 
 isothermal lines dividing these four Zones of Climate, 
 yet the fact is that a similar average temperature during 
 any particular month of the year is found to exist at 
 any part of the zone, except indeed when a cold breeze 
 or rain is lowering the heat of the air in summer at one 
 spot and not at another. "Windy Wellington," for 
 example, is a nick-name familiar to all New Zealanders, 
 based on its meteorology, and therefore that city feels 
 heat less than Wanganui, Woodville, or Napier in 
 summer. 
 
 These divisions of climate are as follows : 
 
 1st. A zone of latitude extending from the North 
 Cape, S. lat. 34 20', southwards to Napier, and across 
 the North Island to Hawera, S. lat. 39 30' Zone No. 1. 
 
 2nd. A zone stretching from this line southwards to 
 the Hurunui River and Hokitika, both in the Middle 
 Island Zone No. 2. 
 
 c 2
 
 20 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 3rd. A zone reaching from the Hurunui Eiver to the 
 southern coast line of the Middle Island, and including 
 the South or Stewart's Island Zone No. 3. 
 
 4th. An Alpine plateau, comprising a large portion 
 of the middle of the North Island, extending upwards 
 from an elevation of 1000 feet above sea level this 
 we may designate Zone No. 4. This zone is cut out of 
 No. 1, being a distinctly different climate as regards its 
 effects upon visitors, and must be regarded as an 
 atmospheric rather than a terrestrial zone, a highland 
 zone as compared with the lowlands. This zone 
 includes the whole " Taupo Volcanic Zone " of map 
 No. 3. 
 
 ZONE I. 
 
 This climate is the warmest and mildest in the whole 
 colony. The North Cape being nearly on the same 
 parallel of south latitude as Sydney, Adelaide, Cape 
 Town, and Buenos Ayres, we should expect this extreme 
 north district to be very warm. And it is found by 
 experiment that bananas, guavas, oranges, lemons, 
 citrons, and other tropical and sub-tropical fruits can be 
 grown there. But the constant sea breezes and saline 
 moisture arising from the narrowness of the " toes of 
 the boot " (see map No. 1), as we may call the north end 
 of the North Island, and from the numerous estuaries 
 running up far into the land, together with the 
 exhalations from the forests which clothe most of the 
 hills and valleys, all these features soften the dryness 
 of the heated atmosphere, and produce, without malaria 
 (such as exists in Florida and Jamaica), a wholesome 
 warm climate, equable in its range of temperature, 
 where men can work hard at manual labour all summer 
 without a siesta at mid-day. By common consent this 
 climate is considered the most delicious in New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The mean average of the yearly temperature is 59 
 in the shade for the northern part of the zone. At 
 Mongonui (S. lat.35l'), the northernmost meteorological
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 21 
 
 station in New Zealand, the maximum shade temperature 
 in summer was 89, and the minimum in winter 31, 
 for a period of ten years ; while the mean summer 
 temperature was only 66*56, showing hoV much the 
 solar rays were tempered by the proximity of the sea. 
 
 Fertile valleys, rich in virgin soil, intersect the 
 country from N.E. to S. W., and N. to S., where fruits of 
 every kind, both sub-tropical and those of cold climates, 
 tobacco, sorghum, sugar-beet, coffee, tea, and the white 
 mulberry (for the silk-culture) may be profitably 
 cultivated. The average rainfall over the district 
 extending from the North Cape, Cape Eeinga (the 
 Maori Hades), and Cape Maria van Diemen to Whangarei 
 on the east coast and Port Albert on the west, is 51 '7 
 inches, of which the greater part falls during the 
 months of May, June, July, August, and September. 
 There is no frost in winter near the coast, and but 
 slight and transient phases of it in valleys shaded from 
 both sun and sea breeze in the interior. The bold and 
 picturesque volcanic scenery of the harbours of 
 Whangaroa and Parua Bay ; the cascades that are found 
 in the valleys ; the wild ferns, many of them esteemed 
 as rare by European connoisseurs, and all of them 
 wonderfully well grown ; and the luxuriance of all 
 vegetation, make this part of Zone I. most attractive to 
 the visitor. Near Whangarei, 75 miles north of Auckland 
 by sea, where the alluvial drift rests upon limestone 
 rock, there are both extensive orangeries, citron, lime, 
 and lemon groves, and the most prolific vineries in New 
 Zealand. The " dessert grapes " usually carry off the 
 prizes at the Auckland annual show. The worthy 
 station-master here (Mr. Dobie) has cultivated oranges 
 for fifteen years past so successfully that no visitor 
 passes through without a sight of them, and his 
 success has stimulated others to start the same culture 
 elsewhere. 
 
 Mr. Geo. E. Alderton, in his useful treatise " Orange 
 Culture in New Zealand," has shown that North 
 Auckland has several places where the soil, with proper 
 culture, the climate, and the rainfall are excellently
 
 22 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 adapted for raising this fruit to a profit. At an outlay 
 of 750, in three years, 1000 orange trees planted on 
 ten acres of suitable land will from the fourth year 
 realise a profit, and by the end of the sixth year not 
 only repay the 750, but leave a large balance for the 
 proprietor. 
 
 The School of Forestry and Experimental Fruit- 
 growing Farm, established by the Government, is 
 situated near this pleasant and healthful town. For 
 the visitor there are lovely walks, drives, and excursions 
 to the falls, to the limestone caves of Waipu and of 
 Whangarei, and to the mineral springs of Kamo. In 
 winter Whangarei is a safer place for consumptives 
 than even Auckland, becaiise of its sheltered position, 
 and of its limestone subsoil. The chalybeate spring at 
 Kamo, seven miles by rail from Whangarei, is a valuable 
 tonic. Though not far from the sea, this town has some 
 of the advantages of an inland place. For instance, I 
 have known asthmatic invalids who could spend the 
 winter in Whangarei in comfort, while they suffered in 
 Auckland. 
 
 There is less chance of contracting rheumatism in this 
 district the same may be said of Napier also than 
 in other towns near the sea in this Zone. 
 
 Throughout the whole area of this Zone, the climate 
 is beneficial to cases of scrofula, of strumous glands, of 
 enlarged joints and rickety bones in children, and of 
 skin diseases of a strumous origin. The abundance and 
 excellent quality of both meat, milk, butter, and eggs, 
 vastly improve the pale unhealthy children born and 
 reared in the large cities of England, where they can 
 neither have this nourishing diet, nor breathe the pure 
 oxygen of the New Zealand air. 
 
 The tourist of botanical tastes may be interested to 
 learn that the flora of the Auckland provincial district 
 comprises 675 species of flowering plants, and 123 of 
 ferns and fern allies, including nearly every native 
 plant, shrub, or tree of known economic value. The 
 very valuable Kauri ipine^Dammara Austrcdis, Coniferse) 
 grows nowhere out of this district. The naturalist will
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 23 
 
 find great interest in searching for the native birds and 
 insects, yearly becoming scarcer, because driven out 
 before the more vigorous or rapacious fauna of Europe. 
 The Little Barrier island, N.E. of the Kawau, lying 
 off the coast near Rodney Point, is one of the few 
 remaining haunts of the rarer avifauna of New Zealand. 
 The sportsman can enjoy shooting pheasants, wild duck, 
 and partridges, or the tui, korimako, kaka, kakapo, and 
 a variety of small birds of the parrot tribe, which relieve 
 the silence of the dense woods. Taking the whole 
 colony, there is no country in the world more rich in 
 ferns than New Zealand, and none as wealthy in native 
 woods, which take a fine polish for ornamental pur- 
 poses. The kiwi, a wingless bird the size of a Cochin- 
 China hen, is found in this district, the small repre- 
 sentative of the extinct Moa (Dinornis elephantipes), a 
 gigantic ostrich-like bird, whose bones are still found in 
 caves and drift in this province, but rarely, owing to 
 the careful searching of scientists during the last twenty 
 years. It was from one imperfect bone of this bird 
 that Professor Owen made his famous prognostication 
 of the form, description, and habits of the Dinornis, 
 which was so exactly verified. 
 
 Local Climate of Auckland. 
 
 While the general features of the climate of the city 
 of Auckland and its suburbs correspond with those of 
 the northern zone above described, there are some local 
 peculiarities which must now be pointed out. In 
 chapter iv. the situation of the city upon clay hills 
 and scoriae slopes is portrayed in detail. The clay 
 subsoil retains the moisture when the ground does not 
 slope sharply, so that some inhabitants contract 
 rheumatism, bronchitis, or sore throats, and towards 
 the end of the summer typhoid fever. Ill-health 
 arising from this cause is soon removed by sending the 
 family to reside on the slopes of Mount Eden, Mount 
 Hobson, Mount Albert, or Mount Victoria on the 
 Devonport side (see illustration, frontispiece). To live,
 
 24 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 however, on the slopes facing the north-east, close to the 
 cemetery of Devonport, is unhealthy, though it would 
 be safe to say, speaking in general terms, that despite a 
 rather limited water supply Devonport offers a healthier 
 site for a residence all the year round than Auckland 
 city. The winter in the city of Auckland is extremely 
 mild. A few miles out in the country there may be 
 four to five degrees of frost, but none whatever in the city 
 limits. The constant humidity tempers the heat of 
 summer delightfully, but has an enervating effect 
 upon highly nervous persons, who feel a restlessness 
 possessing them. The peculiar " muggy weather " 
 coming from the north-east, generally with warm 
 showers of steamy rain, causes in such temperaments 
 an irritability, combined with languor and debility, 
 which is easier imagined than described. Fortu- 
 nately this phase of weather is not of long duration 
 (p. 18). This is about the only drawback to the 
 climate of the city. 
 
 To lounge on an elegant and spacious verandah on 
 a holiday afternoon, and gaze upon an Italian bit of 
 scenery with a silent Vesuvius in the background; 
 to listen to the familiar song of the skylark, the 
 twitter of the swallow, the chirp of the sparrow, the 
 humming of the bee, while at your feet in the garden 
 bloom roses, heliotropes, fuchsias, geraniums, bougain- 
 villeas, and countless other flowers this is enjoyment I 
 And these charms exist within the limits of the city. 
 
 The summer temperature ranges from 66 to 90. But 
 80 is considered " very warm." In January, 1886, we 
 had exceptionally hot weather, the thermometer in shade 
 registering 72 as the lowest, and 80 as the highest 
 temperature. But, with properly ventilated head- 
 covering, and avoidance of needless exposure to the 
 sun, no inconvenience need be suffered. Labourers here 
 seem to work as hard as in England and sunstroke is very 
 rare. Insomnia is experienced by some in Auckland 
 during the summer, and for such, sleeping a few nights 
 out in some country place, such as Waikomiti, Hen- 
 derson, or Bombay, is the only cure. While there are
 
 TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 25 
 
 many spots near Auckland suited for a country hotel 
 and sanatorium, no one has been found bold enough as 
 yet to speculate in the matter. Howick offers an 
 excellent situation for such a building, combining both 
 country and marine views, a drying soil, and accessibility 
 by road or water. 
 
 While Auckland is a very appropriate place for 
 invalids suffering from bronchitis of a recurrent nature, 
 and from throat diseases, it is a singular fact that tenor 
 and soprano voices soon lose their pitch and intonation 
 if much used. Bass and alto voices stand very well. 
 For genuine tubercular phthisis Auckland is seldom 
 suitable, yet I know at least three definite cases of 
 apparent " cure " by the change from England. In 
 chapter xii. I shall further describe these cases. In 
 each the real improvement had begun at sea, and the 
 patients had carefully timed their voyage as to arrive 
 in Auckland during the southern hemisphere's summer. 
 A consumptive invalid should arrive not earlier in 
 the year than October 15th or 20th, nor later in the year 
 than March 31st. Some doubtful cases of pneumonic 
 phthisis I have seen cured entirely. The invalid may 
 reckon upon obtaining in Auckland and its suburbs 
 any quality of accommodation he may choose to have ; 
 an abundance of good food, facilities for riding, driving, 
 &c. ; and plenty of kindly friends, who will do as much 
 as they can for his comfort. There are a large number 
 and variety of good boarding-houses in Auckland. 
 
 Climate of TaranaJci. 
 
 New Plymouth, 135 miles south of Onehunga, the 
 port on the Manukau Harbour by which Auckland 
 controls the traffic of the west coast, has a more 
 bracing and healthier climate, but one which tries the 
 poitrinaire too severely. South-west winds and storms 
 prevail there. The sky is almost always clear, and the 
 rain showers but brief. The snow-covered cone of 
 Mount Egmont is the charm of the scenery. The 
 mean annual temperature (fourteen years' observa-
 
 26 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 tion) is 57'5 ; the difference between the coldest and 
 warmest months being 5'66. The mean annual 
 rainfall is 58 inches. Abundance of pure water is one 
 of the comforts of the Taranaki district, derived from 
 the streams that flow from Egmont into the sea. The 
 dairy produce of the farms here is also a great element 
 in the diet of invalids, being of such a high quality. 
 The population of the district was, in 1886, 18,000, 
 chiefly devoted to pastoral pursuits. New Plymouth, 
 Hawera, and the other chief towns in Taranaki are now 
 connected with Wellington by railway : by sea (twelve 
 hours to Onehunga) frequent steamers connect it with 
 Auckland. The ascent "of Mount Egmont takes two 
 days, and is not attended with danger or any special 
 difficulty, ladies often mounting to the top. 
 
 Local Climate of Napier. 
 
 Crossing now to the east coast (see map) we come 
 to Napier, the capital of Hawke's Bay Province. It is 
 a lively and rising seaport, with a population of 9000, 
 built upon limestone hills and upon a long neck of land 
 called tlie Spit. The subsoil of the hilly part being drier 
 than that of the other towns in this Zone, the well water 
 is somewhat hard ; but these peculiarities are rather 
 beneficial than otherwise to consumptive invalids, for a 
 winter residence. Much less rain falls here than at 
 Auckland or Taranaki, the average for the whole year 
 being 3 7 '2 6 inches. The mean annual temperature is 
 57 0> 56, the difference between the coldest and warmest 
 months being 19 0> 26. Most English trees, birds, and 
 fishes seem to acclimatize well in Hawke's Bay district. 
 The grass is more succulent and the cereals yield more 
 bushels to the acre than in other parts of the colony. 
 Many asthmatic invalids do better at Napier than at 
 Auckland. All the conveniences of advanced civiliza- 
 tion are to be found in this thriving town. It was 
 rather curious to find, as I once found, the very newest 
 books from home in a bookseller's shop in Napier, 
 when these books had not yet reached Auckland.
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 27 
 
 The port of Napier is being improved by a large 
 breakwater designed by Sir John Coode, whereby the 
 heavy swell from the sea will be prevented from 
 entering the harbour. Gas and water works, public, 
 primary, and secondary schools, a hospital, a club, 
 hotels, banks, and the usual Government offices and 
 numerous warehouses, give Napier the completeness of 
 a small capital. Its importance is enhanced by the 
 agricultural and pastoral shows held there every year. 
 The best judges of sheep and horses I know in New 
 Zealand live in Napier. The people are a hearty, 
 friendly, hospitable set. 
 
 Several interesting excursions can be made from 
 Napier. For instance, along the railway line connect- 
 ing it with Wellington, to Hastings, to Havelock, to 
 Te Aute, where there is a theological training college 
 for natives, and to Woodville, in the Seventy Mile 
 Bush Or, in the opposite direction, to Lake Taupo ; to 
 Gisborne, where the wealthy Maori may be seen to 
 perfection ; or to the well-arranged mountain hotel at 
 Kuripapanga, fifty miles inland, north-west, where the 
 sub-Alpine climate of Zone No. 4 can be fully enjoyed 
 without the booming of geysers, steamy mist from 
 hot springs, or the odour of sulphuretted hydrogen. 
 
 ZONE II. 
 
 This climatic belt includes part of the North Island, 
 Cook's Straits, and part of the Middle Island as far 
 south as the Hurunui Kiver on the east, and Hokitika 
 on the west. The general climate of this Zone resembles 
 that of the south of England, but with keener winds, 
 and a far more bracing atmosphere. Within its North 
 Island division we find some lovely inland valleys, such 
 as the famous Manawatu Gorge, and the valley of the 
 Upper Wanganui Eiver. The beautiful and varied 
 " King Country " comes within this Zone, but is not as 
 yet conveniently accessible to the tourist. 
 
 Palmerston North, at the western end of the Mana- 
 watu Gorge, is as healthy, bracing, and yet equable a
 
 28 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 place as I know. In the midst of summer the nights 
 there are cool. This town has a strictly inland climate. 
 It is furnished with a good water supply, very fair 
 hotels, wide streets, good roads in all directions, and a 
 lake for boating quite an unusual luxury for a New 
 Zealand inland town. The view of the " monarch of the 
 north," snow-clad Euapehu (8878 feet), from Palmerston 
 in the early morning is a sight not soon to be forgotten. 
 Wanganui, on the fine river of that name, is a healthy 
 town having a mean annual temperature of 55, but is 
 not very interesting to the traveller. 
 
 At Woodville, only lately redeemed from the forest, 
 the invalid can have the shelter afforded by the 
 primaeval vegetation of the island. The winter there 
 is mild, and the summer not too hot. But ennui will 
 sooner or later drive him to a larger town, and he will 
 probably make for Wellington, the capital of New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The Local Climate of Wellington. 
 
 When the Home Government, in its wisdom, in 1865, 
 moved the capital of the colony from Auckland, the 
 Naples of New Zealand, to a settlement reputed to be 
 the most breezy and earthquaky place in the colony, 
 it is evident that climate did not enter into its consider- 
 ation. What the Yankee said of England is applicable 
 to Wellington : " I guess you have plenty of weather 
 here, but no climate that I can see." Its central 
 position in the colony, its good harbour, and its easy 
 defensibility, constituted the reasons, as Sir Frederick 
 Weld informed me, when I visited him in Hobart in 
 1879, for the choice. The annual rainfall at Welling- 
 ton is nearly fifty-one inches, and the mean annual 
 temperature 55i. The city is much more bracing than 
 Auckland, Wanganui, or Napier, and about as bracing 
 as New Plymouth ; but I have seldom met with any 
 one who preferred to live in Wellington from unbiassed 
 choice. Civil servants, insurance and bank clerks, 
 steamship companies' officials, and retired ex-officials
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 29 
 
 constitute the bulk of the resident population, which in 
 1886 was 25,945. The harbour is a grand expanse of 
 deep water surrounded by hills intersected with ravines, 
 and singularly resembling the Sea of Galilee in size, 
 shape, and liability to sudden storms. The wharves are 
 well constructed, and accommodate the largest number 
 of ocean steamers simultaneously of any port in New 
 Zealand. But even the direct mail steamers are storm- 
 bound sometimes in the harbour. In the city, much of 
 which has been reclaimed from the sea, the museum, 
 the post-office, Government House, and other buildings, 
 including what is supposed to be the largest wooden 
 building in the world, are worthy of the colony. Cabs 
 and tram-cars run at cheaper fares than in the other 
 large towns. The North Island railways will in time all 
 centre in Wellington. The great geological convulsion 
 that formed Cook's Straits, dividing New Zealand into 
 two islands, permanently altered the climates of both the 
 adjacent extremities of the North and Middle Islands, 
 by the in-draught of the west and south-west winds 
 through the straits, and their collision with the east 
 and north-east winds at the eastern outlet. The influx 
 of the sea also has its effect. It will thus be understood 
 that while Wellington has no terrors for vigorous 
 healthy men, it is scarcely a desirable place for pul- 
 monary invalids. 
 
 Local Climates of Nelson and Picton. 
 
 Nelson, at the head of Tasman Bay, on the north 
 coast of the Middle Island, distant 106 miles from 
 Wellington, is called " the garden of New Zealand " for 
 all the fruits of the temperate and sub-tropical regions 
 grow there in luxuriance. Large quantities of preserved 
 fruit and jam of excellent quality are made there. 
 Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the scenery of 
 Nelson is very grand. To invalids suffering from slow 
 chronic consumption, chronic bronchitis, rheumatism, 
 and from senile decay, Nelson offers a delicious and 
 restful climate. If the summer is found inconveniently
 
 30 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 warm, a visitor may resort to Top House on the moun- 
 tains, 3000 feet above the sea. Nelson possesses the very 
 best educational advantages, a comfortable club, cultured 
 society, and an excellent local scientific association. 
 The mean annual temperature of Nelson is 54- 86 ; the 
 difference between the coldest and warmest months 
 being 17. The average rainfall for the year is 61 
 inches. Hops are extensively cultivated at Nelson, and 
 both coal-mines and gold-mines are worked in the 
 district. During 1887 the value of the gold exported 
 from Nelson was 13,711. Its population in 1886 was 
 7315. While the climate of Nelson is tranquillizing to 
 nervous invalids, it has been found by experience too 
 sedative to women who are at all subject to menor- 
 rhagia, and who are burdened with the cares of a 
 rapidly increasing family. Children born in Nelson 
 during the summer are never robust. The winter, 
 however, is more bracing than that of Auckland or 
 Napier. 
 
 Picton is a small town of about 800 inhabitants, at 
 the head of a beautiful arm of the sea, called Queen 
 Charlotte Sound. The short distance, forty miles (fifteen 
 miles across Cook's Strait and twenty-five miles of smooth 
 water up the Sound), between Wellington and Picton 
 enables the Wellingtonians to use Picton as a summer 
 resort. For boating, yachting, and fishing, Queen 
 Charlotte Sound is unsurpassed in New Zealand. The 
 flavour of the Picton herring is, in my opinion, equal to 
 that of the Yarmouth 'bloater.' When I visited the 
 place in 1886, lodgings were cheap ; the simplicity of 
 the Pictonians, who flocked down in crowds to see the 
 Moraroa, the largest Union steamer that had ever 
 ventured up to their little wharf; and the exquisite 
 situation of the sleepy-looking town, all indicated that 
 Picton was not appreciated as it might be by the New 
 Zealanders in general, or by that time it would have 
 become a Llandudno or Scarborough on a small scale. 
 But its time will come. From Nelson to Picton we 
 steam through the " French Pass," a romantic channel, 
 formed between the mainland and D'Urville Island, at
 
 TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 31 
 
 one place only 117 yards broad, the tide running with 
 tremendous force through it, between steep cliffs 500 
 feet high. Picton is the port of Blenheim, the capital 
 of the provincial district of Marlborough, and is con- 
 nected with it by railway. The mean annual tempera- 
 ture of this district (five years' observation) is 53'4, 
 the highest mean being 64 0< 3, and the lowest 42 0- 8. 
 The average rainfall is nearly the same as that of 
 Nelson. The country is mountainous, and covered with 
 thick forests, chiefly of various kinds of pine and birch, 
 of which a large quantity is' annually exported. In 
 Blenheim, I noticed a prosperity and complete absence 
 of poverty, and a general contentment with each one's 
 lot not too common in New Zealand at that time of 
 depression, the summer of 1886. The summer is dis- 
 tinctly hotter in Blenheim than in Picton. It is not 
 easy to find temporary accommodation there, except at 
 the hotels, for every householder owns and occupies his 
 own house. There are not the same social advantages 
 as at Nelson, but as Picton is drier and colder than the 
 latter city, it suits some cases of asthma better, and of 
 hypenesthetic nerve-irritability. Delicate strumous 
 children thrive well here, being able to take plenty of 
 open air exercise in boating, fishing, climbing the hills, 
 riding ponies, and walking. When Picton and Blen- 
 heim are connected by rail with the Canterbury system, 
 and with Nelson, I venture to predict that it will 
 become the favourite sea-side resort of the Middle 
 Island. Neither Sumner (Christchurch) nor Ocean 
 Beach (Dunedin) have such attractions. 
 
 ZONE III. 
 
 Extending from the Hurunui Eiver and Hokitika, 
 S. lat. 42 50' to the south of the South or Stewart's 
 Island, S. lat. 47 20'. The general features of this 
 climate have been sketched out on pp. 16/17, and 19, 
 but the peculiar local climates of Christchurch, Dunedin, 
 Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu and Invercargill require 
 individual description.
 
 32 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Local Climate of Christchurch. 
 
 " The Cathedral City," as it is called, is the most 
 handsomely laid out of the four chief cities of New 
 Zealand. Its Cathedral (Anglican) is at present the 
 only one in the colony. In churches, schools, colleges, 
 museum, and handsome private residences, it is the 
 most English-looking city in New Zealand. Its popu- 
 lation (32,000) includes the largest number of wealthy 
 citizens and of cultured people of any of the four cities. 
 But its climate is not conducive to the health of sickly 
 people or of young children, from its extreme varia- 
 tions in the same week, or even in the same day. It 
 is the only New Zealand city where a hot wind blows 
 occasionally in the summer. This wind is from the 
 west, and, though cool at its origin, becomes heated up 
 by the hot, dry, fertile, wheat-growing Canterbury 
 Plains about 100 miles before it reaches the city. It 
 is at this season, (December to February) that cases of 
 sunstroke occur. 
 
 The pallor, languor, and frequent illnesses among 
 children in Christchurch in summer impress the 
 stranger unfavourably. In winter, again, the prevalent 
 winds, west and south-west, are very cold, blowing as 
 they do across the Southern Alps, and thence over the 
 Canterbury Plains at that season bearing frost on their 
 surface. The greatest heat of summer (derived from the 
 mean average of twelve years' observation) is 88, and 
 the greatest cold of winter is 25. Yet the mean annual 
 temperature is only 52 "88. At the change of season, 
 corresponding to our spring and autumn, Christchurch 
 weather is delightful. At all times a run down to the 
 port, namely, Lyttelton, from which a range of hills, 
 pierced by a tunnel 2838 yards long, is a cooling 
 change. So also is a stay at Sumner, the sea bathing- 
 place of Christchurch. The healthy person who 
 dislikes long, cold, and damp winter will live more 
 comfortably in Christchurch than in Dunedin ; and a 
 few cases of pure asthma do better in Christchurch
 
 TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 33 
 
 than elsewhere. But invalids with weak chests, or 
 those whose liver and kidneys are affected, should not 
 go there to reside. When debilitated by Christchurch 
 summer weather, a visitor should go west to Bealey, on 
 the Southern Alps, 2104 feet above sea level, a station 
 on the coach road from the east to the west coasts. 
 Here, amid glaciers and snow peaks as grand as that 
 of Switzerland, he can become braced up thoroughly. 
 Good fishing and shooting may be had. Bealey is the 
 coldest of all the Government weather-stations. The 
 minimum temperature for the year is 12, the maximum 
 is 78, and the annual mean average is 46 '7. The 
 average rainfall here is 105 inches. 
 
 Crossing the well-made road, past terrific precipices, 
 crossing roaring torrents, and skirting fields of snow 
 the grandest drive in New Zealand from Bealey to 
 Hokitika, we find ourselves in the wettest town in 
 New Zealand, 112 inches being the average annual 
 rainfall. The district called West-land is sparsely 
 populated by an orderly people, although mining for 
 gold and for coal are the chief industries. Forests are 
 plentiful. The prevailing wind is westerly. The 
 mean annual temperature is 52 34 ; the difference 
 between the coldest and warmest months being 14 76. 
 Westland cannot be recommended for invalids. Mount 
 Cook, or Aarangi, the monarch of New Zealand, 12,349 
 feet high, first ascended by the Rev. W. S. Green in 
 1883, is in this district. The Midland Railway 
 Company of New Zealand is now engaged in connecting 
 Springfield and Hokitika by rail. 
 
 Akaroa is a pleasant little town on a beautiful harbour 
 situated on Bank's Peninsula, forty-four miles south-east 
 from Lyttelton, famous for its fruits. It has a milder 
 climate than Christchurch, and romantic scenery. 
 
 Neither Tiinaru (pop. estimated at 5000), 100 miles 
 south of Christchurch, nor Oamaru, seventy-eight miles 
 north of Dunedin, both important seaports, need be 
 described in a chapter devoted to climatic considera- 
 tions. Healthy persons, able to withstand much 
 stormy weather, can enjoy life there thoroughly. 
 
 D
 
 34 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Local Climate of Dunedin. 
 
 Dunedin, named after Edinburgh, is its representative 
 in climate also. Built on steep hills surrounding a bay 
 open at both ends to the north-east and south-west winds, 
 it requires great care to select a lodging for an invalid 
 winch shall be sufficiently sheltered. The result of 
 seventeen years' observations at Dunedin, 550 feet 
 above the sea, gives the mean temperature of the whole 
 year as 50*72; the maximum is 84 '74, and the 
 minimum 29 84. The average temperature for winter 
 is 43^ ; for summer 57 ; for spring 50^ ; and for 
 autumn 51 '8. 
 
 In my own experience I found the change from 
 Auckland, with its 85 to 90 in the shade in the 
 summer, to Dunedin, where my thermometer stood at 
 47 every night, very delightful. An invalid with 
 chronic liver trouble, or liable to congestive head 
 attacks, would do well to spend the summer in 
 Dunedin. It is a handsome city, with 45,000 in- 
 habitants, and furnished with all the educational, 
 ecclesiastical, social, and commercial facilities that one 
 can possibly desire. The scenery around Dunedin is 
 as beautiful as that of Auckland, but of a different 
 character. Majestic, stern, bare, cloud-capped moun- 
 tains, intersected by boulder- strewn valleys, rise all 
 around. The drives round the peninsula to Larnach's 
 Castle, across the bay from Dunedin, and to Blueskin 
 (visitors miss the scenery by rail) are simply mag- 
 nificent. And the walk up the Water of Leith Valley 
 to the Eeservoir is the prettiest I have ever seen in the 
 suburbs of a large town. In the architecture of its 
 churches, banks, city hall, and monuments, and in 
 the possession of the Grand Hotel, Dunedin excels its 
 three rivals. The severe climate stimulates the 
 faculties of business men, and their bustling ways are 
 a contrast to the languor of Auckland and the gentle- 
 manly deliberation of Christchurch. There is a real 
 winter here, of uncertain duration, July being perhaps
 
 TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 35 
 
 the most severe month of the year, when sleet, snow, 
 and hail descend with a charming variety ! The 
 youngsters of Dunedin, Queenstown, and Invercargill 
 can sometimes enjoy the luxury of snow-balling fights. 
 But for invalids Dunedin is to be avoided in winter and 
 spring. Among the residents cases of phthisis pulmon- 
 alis, pneumonia, pleurisy, bronchitis, and other lung 
 diseases, along with quinsy, diphtheria, and catarrhal 
 sore throats, are common. Statistics show, however, 
 that Dunedin is a healthy city compared with any 
 large city or town in England, and that its birth-rate 
 is high. 
 
 The children one sees are rosy, plump, and hardy. 
 Two lines of cable tramcars render access to the upper 
 parts of the city easy, and the Town Belt, a park 
 extending round Upper Dunedin in a semicircle, 
 affords a pleasant walk at any time of the year. After 
 seeing the rain come down in summer one finds it 
 difficult to believe that the average annual rainfall is 
 only 32 inches ; but this is the official record. It is 
 the only New Zealand city where I found it necessary 
 to carry an umbrella every day in the summer. The 
 Dunedin Club, occuyping Fernhill House is an excel- 
 lent one. On inquiry I found the prices of hosiery, 
 drapery, &c., to be as low as in England, and I am 
 inclined to think that living there is rather cheaper, 
 though house-rent is dearer than in Auckland. 
 
 Local Climate of Queenstown. 
 
 The Alpine resort in summer of the Middle Island 
 families and of those tourists who " do " the Southern 
 Lakes is Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu, about 200 
 miles west from Dunedin by the rail, which takes a 
 circuitous route. From three years' observation taken 
 at this weather station, 1070 feet above sea level, we 
 find that the mean annual temperature is 51; the 
 difference between the coldest and the warmest months 
 is 21 ; the maximum being 84, and the minimum. 23. 
 
 D 2
 
 36 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 The scenery is perfectly glorious. At the back of 
 Queenstown is Ben Lomond, which a lady can ascend 
 easily. Opposite the town are the ' Eemarkables,' a 
 serrated range of mountains 3000 feet high, where the 
 lights of sunset and sunrise are transcendently lovely. 
 The lake (pronounced " Waw-Jca-tip," the final "u" 
 being silent) is 70 miles long, 112 square miles in area, 
 and bounded on the north by the grandest double- 
 peaked mountain in the Middle Island, Mount Earns- 
 law. At its foot nestle the hamlets of Kinloch and 
 Glenorchy, where perfect quiet, primitive but whole- 
 some fare, and boating, fishing, riding ad libitum can 
 be enjoyed if the visitor tires of the bustle of Queens- 
 town. "No lake in Europe can at all equal Lake 
 "Wakatipu except Lucerne," says the Hon. J. C. Rich- 
 mond, an experienced traveller and clever amateur 
 artist. At this elevation many asthmatic sufferers 
 enjoy peaceful nights. Invalids suffering from eczema, 
 which is worse near the sea, from bronchitis coupled 
 with asthma, from glandular swellings and from 
 gout, will recover health at Queenstown, if the brief 
 summer allows them to stay long enough. In six 
 weeks my delicate wife and little son regained perfect 
 health by a sojourn at Kinloch. Visitors must provide 
 against the cold of the evenings and during the nights. 
 Those coming from the North Island, Australia, the 
 Cape, India, or the Pacific Islands, will find this whole 
 district cold, even though the sun's direct rays are hot. 
 The last night I was at Queenstown there was an 
 earthquake shock, which was distinctly perceptible, 
 but did no damage. I could not help comparing it in 
 this peculiarity with Crieff in Scotland, close to Loch 
 Earn, where shocks occasionally occur. 
 
 Local Climate of Invercargill. 
 
 Invercargill is the capital of the province of South- 
 land, 139 miles south of Dunedin, and seventeen from 
 the Bluff Harbour, the southernmost post of call for all
 
 THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 37 
 
 steamers approaching New Zealand from the south. It 
 has now over 10,000 inhabitants, and is an important 
 pastofal centre. Invercargill is laid out on the American 
 rectangular plan, with wide streets, handsome shops, 
 tramcars, and lofty public buildings. The climate of 
 the town, like that of Wellington, principally consists 
 of "changes of weather." Along its wide streets the 
 icy breezes, fresh from the Antarctic Pole, blow, accord- 
 ing to the season, dust, sand, sleet, rain, or snow. A 
 greater contrast to Auckland could not possibly be 
 imagined. A bank clerk who was suddenly moved by 
 the head office from Auckland to Invercargill had his 
 memory so benumbed by cold that he forgot his over- 
 due little bills ! Thunderstorms are more common in 
 Southland than elsewhere in the colony, being as 29 '5 
 to 18 in Auckland and Mangonui ; 16 in Taranaki ; 
 14 in Hokitika; 7 in Dunedin ; and 3*in Christchurch. 
 The average annual temperature of Invercargill is 50, 
 the maximum temperature in summer being 83, and 
 the minimum of winter 20. The average annual rain- 
 fall is 43 '67 inches. It is a pity that this winter 
 temperature is not low enough to freeze the rabbits 
 which constitute the great pest of Southland, destroying 
 the pasturage, and thus starving out the sheep. While 
 it is only a Scotchman who can live comfortably in 
 Southland, I must acknowledge that the children I met 
 in the streets of Invercargill are rosy-cheeked, healthy, 
 and active. 
 
 ZONE IV. 
 
 forms an irregular ovoid figure on the map, having Lake 
 Taupo (1250 feet above the sea) as its centre. Upon 
 this sub- Alpine plateau, the lowest part of which is 
 1000 feet above sea level, we have a dry, pumiceous, 
 and scoria soil and a capital mountain air, which is 
 particularly suited for asthmatic and emphysematous 
 sufferers, and for those whose shaken nervous system 
 requires a light stimulating atmosphere and cool nights. 
 The average winter temperature on this plateau does
 
 38 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 not exceed 50 during the day, and 30 to 32 during 
 the night. The light dry soil soaks up rain quickly, 
 and on sunny days (the usual, not as in England, the 
 unusual thing) reflects the sun's rays so strongly as to 
 thoroughly dessicate the air near to the surface of the 
 ground. At the sulphur baths (to be described in 
 chapter v.), which abound in this region, the rapid 
 cures of rheumatism and of skin diseases are accelerated 
 by these characteristics. But the storniiness of the 
 weather at all seasons makes it dangerous for consump- 
 tive patients to visit or stay at Eotorua or Taupo. 
 Ordinary tourists will, however, much enjoy the scenery, 
 and find it not only comfortable but pleasant to travel 
 through this Zone between December 1st and the 
 end of February. Tourists who are not taking the 
 thermal treatment, will find the location of this 
 sanatorium at Kotorua (Ohinemutu) and the hotel at 
 " Joshua's," Taupo, too near the hot steaming pools and 
 too highly flavoured with sulphuretted hydrogen fumes 
 to be enjoyable. The convenience of the invalids has 
 rightly been studied first before all. Means of easy 
 communication between Taupo and the wild and 
 romantic " King Country " are still wanting, but the 
 North Island Trunk Eailway will effect this in due time, 
 and then the grand tour sketched out on p. 135 may be 
 made. For details of the climate and prevalent weather 
 at Rotorua, I refer to chapters v. and vi.
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 
 
 The name, origin, and appearance of the Maori Tattooing Lan- 
 guage, with specimens Rhyme for pronunciation Grammar 
 History of Old New Zealand Causes of their decline Customs 
 of tapu, muru, utu explained. Korero, haka, tangi, mana ex- 
 plained Bishop Selwyn's defence of Maori character Generous 
 deeds Old Mohi Conversions Future of the race. 
 
 ALTHOUGH this little book does not aim at including 
 the history and ethnology of New Zealand, yet a few 
 pages may be wisely devoted to the subject of the 
 aborigines, seeing that the race is slowly but surely 
 passing away, and that the Maori has proved himself 
 to be the bravest and most intelligent of all the 
 Pacific Islanders hitherto encountered by English 
 soldiers. 
 
 The " Maori," from a word meaning " native " or 
 "indigenous," seems to belong to the brown-skinned, 
 that is, to the lighter- coloured races of Polynesia. 
 Many books have been written and essays contributed 
 to the Transactions of the New Zealand Institute upon 
 the " Whence of the Maoris," and so little is known of 
 their remote origin that various savants have held that 
 they came (1) from Central America ; (2) from Peru ; 
 (3) from Hawaii or Samoa ; (4) from Sabea in the south 
 of Arabia ; while (5) a learned Hebrew believes them 
 to be descendants of the Gibeonites who were made 
 slaves by Joshua (see Joshua ix.) as a punishment for 
 their deception of him, and who eventually were driven 
 out of the Holy Land at the dispersion of Judah. He 
 bases this strange theory on some undeniably Semitic
 
 40 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 customs and observances among the Maoris. For 
 instance, the consecration ceremony at puberty, the 
 mourning ceremonial, and the close resemblance of the 
 tapu custom in relation to the dead to that of the law 
 of uncleanness as delivered through Moses. 
 
 It is remarkable that the Maoris neither manufacture 
 a native intoxicant like kava, nor any cloth resembling 
 tapa, both productions being universal among their 
 reputed ancestors of the South Pacific. 
 
 Whatever may be the correct theory, it is generally 
 admitted that the present Maori race came to New 
 Zealand about the year 1100 A.D. in canoes, the names 
 of the largest of which are still borne by the various 
 tribes, or hapus, such as the Arawa, Waikato, Nga- 
 puhi, &c. 
 
 It is clear also that they found in these islands an 
 aboriginal of a Papuan type, of whom they made slaves, 
 as we see by some of their ancient carved temples, 
 whare-kura, and as we trace here and there among 
 themselves by observing men of short stature, darker 
 complexion, brachycephalic skull, full lips, and curly 
 and coarse but not woolly hair. 
 
 The pure Maori may be thus sketched. The men are 
 tall, muscular, and well formed, the feet and hands 
 being well proportioned, though the legs are shorter 
 than in the average European. Their average height is 
 5 feet 6 inches. The shades of colour of their brown 
 skin vary from a tint fairer than that of the Basque or 
 South Italian to that of a modified Papuan. The hair 
 is usually black, but sometimes dark brown. As a rule, 
 there is little or no beard. The features of the chiefs 
 are regular and symmetrical, the nose being large and 
 often aquiline, in spite of the detestable custom of 
 flattening the Maori babies' noses in infancy ; the 
 mouth is large, and the lips not as full as in the negro ; 
 the eyes are dark, vivacious, and expressive ; the teeth 
 are white and regular, lasting to old age. The face is 
 greatly under self-command ; for the Maori, while keenly 
 observant, and possessing a most tenacious memory, can 
 effectually conceal his thoughts and feelings. Yet his
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 41 
 
 fount of tears is always ready ; he can weep at a 
 moment's notice. " A Maori may be in a violent rage/' 
 says the Eev. J. Buller, " or bitterly weeping, or as 
 sulky (pouri) as a mule from the same identical cause." 
 The women are handsome, powerful, and muscular, with 
 large, dark, lustrous eyes, and long hair of a less coarse 
 fibre than that of the men. But they reach maturity 
 early in life, and from very heavy work become pre- 
 maturely aged and ugly, while the tattooing of the lips 
 in blue is to our notions a deformity in every woman 
 of whatever age. 
 
 In connection with the custom of tattoo which when 
 on the face is called moko, on the body whakaairo 
 every adult Maori who could afford the high fee exacted 
 by the professional tattoo artist, and every adult woman 
 had a right to it, contrary to what visitors are generally 
 told, namely, that these marks are distinctive of the 
 chief or his family (Buller). 
 
 The language of the Maoris is a dialect nearest akin 
 to the Earotongan, Hawaiian, and Samoan. So close a 
 family likeness exists between Maori, Samoan, and 
 Hawaiian that a Maori can follow the debates in the 
 House of Eepresentatives in Honolulu without the aid 
 of an interpreter, while a kanaka or Samoan who 
 happens to be cast ashore in New Zealand can make 
 himself understood by the Maoris. One fundamental 
 resemblance in these four Polynesian dialects consists 
 in their being composed of monosyllabic root-words, by 
 the duplication and combination of which new words 
 more complex in their meaning are made. This feature 
 also proves that these languages belong to the primaeval 
 ages of human speech. Their lingual affinities are also 
 very marked. For example, the Maori and Hawaiian 
 dialects substitute the aspirated " h " for the sibilant 
 " s " and " sh " existing in Samoan. I never heard a 
 Maori pronounce our sibilants, and I was informed by 
 Judge Maning that only one tribe could be taught to 
 utter it. " You give me one herring," said a Maori to 
 me at the Hot Lakes. For a time I was nonplussed, 
 but a colonial bystander interpreted it to me, " You
 
 42 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 give me one shilling," the " 1 " being also lacking in 
 Maori. In the Hawaiian and Samoan dialects the " 1 " 
 and " k " take the place of " r " and " t " in the Maori 
 respectively. 
 
 . As in all the Christian islands of the Pacific, the 
 missionaries have reduced the native language to 
 writing for the purpose of translating the Holy Scrip- 
 tures. The first part of this task was not difficult for 
 the ordinary purposes of intercourse, because of the 
 simplicity of the structure of the language and the uni- 
 formity of the vowel pronunciation ; but owing to the 
 non-existence of words conveying abstract ideas the 
 work of translation was very hard. 
 
 The Maori alphabet consists of five vowels : a, e, i, o, 
 u ; nine consonants : h, k, m, n, p, r, t, w, and ng ; and 
 five diphthongs : ae, ai, ao, au, ou, all of which are 
 pronounced as in Italian. The palatal sound " ng " is 
 very soft, the " g " being inaudible at the beginning of a 
 word such as nga-rua-wahia, the two rivers, pronounced 
 " Nah-ruah-wahya," whereas in Onehunga the " g " is 
 distinct, though not nearly as hard as in the English 
 word " hunger." Each consonant must be followed by 
 a vowel, and every word in Maori ends in a vowel, though 
 elision is practised in rapid utterance, for the English 
 visitor hears'Lake Wakatipu called " Wakatip," &c. 
 
 The following jeu d? esprit in rhyme gives a fair idea 
 of the sound of the native names of seven places in the 
 colony, I underline the seven Maori words : 
 
 " Ohau shall I cross this swift river, Ohau? 
 
 Waikanae not swim to the shore ? 
 Otaki a boat now and merrily row 
 
 In the Manawatu did before. 
 Orowa-way gently, for you must beware 
 
 Of the Horowhenua afloat. 
 Waikawa-rdly stand I and shiver on shore 
 
 Till the ferryman brings me the boat V " 
 
 It is to the credit of the colonial governments of 
 New Zealand that they have officially perpetuated the 
 Maori names of both mountains, lakes, rivers, valleys, 
 bays, and settlements in the colony, for they are most
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 43 
 
 appropriate, sometimes poetical and connoting an 
 interesting legend ; always mellifluous ; and the Maori 
 language will one day be extinct. But at the same 
 time it must be admitted that some names are untrans- 
 latable so as to be in accordance with decency. 
 
 A few of the more common words I will now 
 translate as a help to those who study the map of our 
 colony for the first time. The Maori language is 
 copious, consisting of at least six thousand words. 
 They gave descriptive names to everything visible in 
 earth, sky, or sea, and they have no less than twelve 
 names for different shades of colour. Observe that in 
 Maori the adjective follows the noun. 
 
 1. The chief numerals are : tahi, 1 ; rua, 2 ; torn, 3 ; 
 wlia, 4 ; rima, 5 ; ono, 6 ; whitu, 7 ; warn, 8 ; iwa, 9.,; 
 tekau, 10. 
 
 2. Perhaps the commonest root-word at the beginning 
 of a name is wai, which means " water." We thus have : 
 wai-wera, hot spring ; wai-kato, high river ; wai-heke, 
 flowing water ; wai-makiriri, cold river ; wai-roa, tall 
 water (a waterfall) ; wai-uku, clay water, &c. 
 
 3. Other common words are roto, lake ; motu, island ; 
 wliare, hut or house ; whanga, harbour ; pah or pa, fort ; 
 puke, hill ; kai, food ; rangi, sky, heaven ; wako, canoe ; 
 mana, power ; maunga, hilL 
 
 4. Among the adjectives useful to know are pai, 
 good ; kino, bad ; mate, dead ; pouri, sad or sulky ; poto, 
 short ; roa, tall or long ; tapu, sacred ; nui, great. 
 
 In conversation ae (sounded like the Scottish " aye ") 
 means " yes ; " kahore, " no." 
 
 The ordinary salutation is " Tena ra ko koe ? " 
 literally " Hold ; there you are ! " usually shortened into 
 " Tena koe ? " which is colloquially equivalent to our 
 " How do you do ? " and the correct reply is, " Tena 
 koutou," " How are we both ? " 
 
 The colonists do not trouble to learn Maori, except 
 the commonest words and phrases, for he who would 
 converse fluently with the natives must live among 
 them and study the manner, inflection of voice, the 
 gestures, emphasis, and pronunciation of their best
 
 44 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 speakers (and they have many very good orators) 
 because the same word may have its meaning altered 
 by all or any of these arts of oratory. 
 
 A monthly newspaper in Maori, called the "Kori- 
 mako " (the name of the Bell bird of New Zealand, now 
 nearly extinct), was established and endowed by a 
 philo-Maori American gentleman, the late W. P. Snow, 
 of Massachusetts, for distribution among the reading 
 natives. It has proved of good service in the Gospel 
 and temperance work among them, and also as a means 
 of diffusing information about Europe and America. 
 
 From it I extract the first verse of the translation of 
 Sankey's well-known hymn : 
 
 HOLD THE FORT. 
 
 " E te iwi ! haere ake 
 
 Ki te nui mau 
 Haere ake ki te ora 
 
 I te ara hou, 
 Puritia mai te Taonga 
 
 Kia piki ai 
 Whaia ko te ture tika 
 
 Whaia ko te pwi." 
 
 These lines pronounced as I have indicated on p. 42 
 will be found quite euphonious and well adapted to the 
 original stirring music. The Maori children have thin 
 voices, but not unpleasing, and they sing in admirable 
 time. 
 
 When we come to the substantives and verbs, we 
 find that Maori possesses not only a singular and plural 
 number but also a dual. There are also two pronouns 
 denoting the first person plural, " we," namely, matou, 
 meaning " we " excluding the person spoken to, and tatou 
 " we " including the person addressed. But I must not 
 pursue the subject further, lest I should discourage any 
 readers who may emigrate to New Zealand from 
 learning the native " lingo." 
 
 The first missionaries sent out to convert the Maoris 
 had, as I have stated, much difficulty in translating the 
 Bible for the want of abstract terms in the Maori. But 
 after years of self-devotion, prayerful study, reflection,
 
 TEE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 45 
 
 and judicious collaboration the task was completed 
 about the year 1845, the Old Testament having been 
 translated by my friend Dr. Maunsell, Archdeacon of 
 Auckland, who still lives, honoured by all who know 
 him, and the New Testament by Bishop Williams, who 
 has gone to his rest. The first Maori convert, named 
 Eangi, was baptized September 14, 1825, after ten 
 years' missionary work. The Maoris eagerly learnt to 
 read, and showed great shrewdness in questioning their 
 teachers on Biblical subjects. And now the whole 
 nation are actually or nominally Christian. A lady 
 could now traverse even the wild " King country " in 
 personal safety. In this day of severe criticism of 
 missions and missionaries my readers should notice 
 this fact in connection with what I shall describe later 
 on. In conveying to the native mind European ideas, 
 several words have been introduced by the missionaries 
 from the English into the Maori, by splitting up as it 
 were our numerous double consonants, e.g. newspaper be- 
 comes nupepa ; book, puka-puka ; England, Ingaranga ; 
 Auckland, Akarana; Graham, Kerehama ; John, Hone ; 
 William, Wiremu ; Featherston, Petatone, &c. 
 
 When the first white men settled in New Zealand, 
 the aboriginal Maori was a brave but cruel and blood- 
 thirsty athletic savage, reckless of human life, selfish to 
 the backbone, revengeful, treacherous according to our 
 ideas, yet in time of peace courteous and hospitable to 
 the white man pakeha, "foreigner," he was called. 
 Mr. E. E. Maning, who wrote two graphic and witty 
 books, entitled "Old New Zealand" and "The War 
 in the North," under the nom de plume of " Pakeha- 
 Maori," describes the country when he landed as a 
 Pandemonium, from the constant and furious wars of 
 extermination waged by the various tribes (kapus) upon 
 each other. There was, he states, ample evidence to 
 show that, centuries before, the native population had 
 been much more numerous than it was found to be 
 when he first settled there. The diseases induced by 
 famine and malaria, besides the slaughter in the wars, 
 had caused a rapid decrease in the numbers of the
 
 46 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 natives. A continuous state of warfare had become so 
 much the natural condition of life with the Maori that 
 all Ms customs, sentiments, and maxims had been 
 formed accordingly. Nothing was so esteemed as 
 courage and strength, and to acquire property by war 
 and plunder was more honourable and more desirable 
 than by honest labour. To kill the wounded and captive 
 and to eat your dead enemy was noble and glorious. 
 You assimilated by cannibalism all the courage and 
 strength as well as the atua, or soul, of the man you 
 devoured, besides striking terror into all his tribe. The 
 knowledge of this horrible custom was the chief cause of 
 the panic that sometimes seized our own soldiers in the 
 Maori wars. Our wounded men have been known to 
 implore their comrades to kill them rather than let them 
 fall into the hands of the cannibal Maoris. 
 
 No aboriginal nation, except perhaps the Zulus, has 
 been more difficult to conquer than the Maoris ; and at 
 last they obtained an honourable peace from our 
 commanders. The bravery, the skill in fortification, in 
 attack and defence, and the knowledge of strategy of 
 the Maori have extorted admiration from all military 
 men who have served in New Zealand. For some 
 years after the settlements grew in the colony, the 
 intertribal wars became still more sanguinary because 
 of the use of firearms. But the spread of Christianity, 
 the practice of trade and barter, and the influence of 
 the pakeha checked the depopulation by gradually 
 substituting the peaceful arts of agriculture and the 
 manufacture of articles from the native flax shrub 
 (Phormium tenax) for bloody and fruitless war. 
 
 The low morality of the Maori in his heathen state 
 conduced to the decrease of the race. His ideas and 
 expressions were full of obscenity in ordinary conver- 
 sation. Polygamy, infanticide, the abandonment of 
 the sick, infirm, and aged ; the suicide of widows, the 
 slaughter of all a chief's slaves at his death, and the 
 ruthless retaliation of murder upon the innocent were 
 universally practised in Maoridom. Latterly, from the 
 adoption of European clothes and blankets, from
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 47 
 
 intoxicating drinks, from contagious diseases introduced 
 by the white man, and from the swampy, unhealthy 
 places often selected by the native for his hut, called 
 wharc (built of raupo, a kind of rush, and the leaves of 
 the nikau, or cabbage palm) their numbers have been 
 declining. But since the New Zealand Government 
 have provided free education, free medical advice, and 
 medicines, and in some cases free quarters and rations, 
 and since intermarriage with the pakeha has become 
 common, the annual decrease has been but small. In 
 analysing the census returns of 1886, and comparing 
 them with those of 1881, the Kegistrar-general of New 
 Zealand comes to the following conclusions concerning 
 the vitality of the Maori race : 
 
 1. That there is a much smaller birth-rate among 
 the Maoris than among the rest of the population. 
 
 2. That there is a higher death-rate at all the younger 
 ages of life. 
 
 3. That there is, in addition, a much higher death- 
 rate among the adult Maori females than among the 
 adult males. 
 
 I shall allude to the diseases prevalent among the 
 Maoris in chapter xii. 
 
 There are, it is estimated, though not with exactness, 
 about 40,000 natives in the North and about 2000 in 
 the Middle and South Islands ; just about the number 
 of Lapps remaining in Scandinavia. Thousands of 
 these are Christians, many quite consistent in their 
 behaviour, and hundreds own horses, oxen, waggons, 
 geese, fowls, and bees. In 1881 the Maoris owned 
 besides horses no less than 112,850 sheep, 42,103 cattle, 
 and 92,091 pigs. What with pigs ad libitum, potatoes, 
 kumara, taro, peach and apple trees, and fish everywhere 
 in plenty, it is his own fault if the Maori starves. 
 Each adult Maori has a vote for one of the four native 
 members of the House of Eepresentatives, according to 
 his district. There are also two Maoris in the Legis- 
 lative Council. There is a native department, with a 
 Cabinet minister at its head, and a Native Lands Court 
 system specially devoted to Maori interests. More
 
 48 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 than 2600 Dative children attend the 79 free schools, 
 where, I am glad to state, the English language alone 
 is now taught. Some natives, notably those of Hawke's 
 Bay and Poverty Bay, have become quite wealthy from 
 the sale or lease of their lands to settlers. The ancient 
 customs of the Maori are, as might be expected, fall- 
 ing into disuse from the spread of civilization and 
 Christianity, and from the death of the old warriors 
 (ariki) and the tohungas, or priest-magicians, whose arts 
 failed them against the superior knowledge, weapons, 
 and apparatus of the pakeha. The last of these tohungas, 
 old Tuhoto, said to be a centenarian, perished from the 
 effects of the Tarawera volcanic eruption in 1886. 
 The present generation of adults have less of the 
 brutality and ignorance of their ancestors, but have 
 acquired some of the white man's vices drunkenness, 
 lying, extortion, thieving, and bullying. However, there 
 are many exceptions, as I shall presently note. 
 
 For an exact and profound study of the Polynesian 
 customs of tapu, mum, utu, and others, I would refer 
 readers to Dr. Fornander's book, and to Dr. E. K. 
 Tylor's " Manual of Anthropology ; " but a brief 
 description of these, of the past meaning of the word 
 "mana" and of the ceremonies called karero, tangi, and 
 haka, must be permitted. 
 
 1st. The custom of making anything tapu, or sacred, 
 or unclean, still survives in some of the remote villages 
 or kaingas. But whereas in ancient times there were 
 many kinds and degrees of tapu, everything worn or 
 used by a chief being tapu, for instance, everything 
 worn or used by a stranger who was tapu by the chief 
 also, the place of a birth, death, or burial being ditto ; 
 and the tohunga being able to tapu any land, hut, person, 
 or thing, and likewise by a certain karakia (incantation) 
 to release it from tapu, the breach of any of these being 
 punishable by death. Nowadays even the burying- 
 place, the wahi-tapu, is barely respected by the quarter- 
 civilized Maori, and not at all by the colonist. 
 
 2nd. By muru was meant an organised and legal 
 confiscation of goods inflicted upon one who killed
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 49 
 
 another by accident, or stole any property belonging 
 to another. This muru generally included personal 
 chastisement of the offender, who however was allowed 
 to protect himself. The pillaging party was called a 
 taua-muru, or ' battalion for punishment.' Such was the 
 perverted moral sense of the Maori that if a child in a 
 family got burned or drowned the rest of the hapu 
 would come and inflict muru upon the parents ! 
 
 3rd. The utu or satisfaction for murder (lex talionis), 
 theft, or any other crime, identical with the Mosaic 
 " eye for an eye," " tooth for a tooth," &c., law, a law 
 common to all primitive nations, was rigorously carried 
 out among the Maoris. Most of the massacres of the 
 boats' crews on the coast of New Zealand in early days, 
 and those that take place now in some of the uncivilised 
 islands of the Pacific, have been enforcements of utu, 
 or blood for blood. For, as the islanders make no 
 distinction between Europeans, the crimes of the 
 French, German, or Dutch sailors are visited upon the 
 more humane Englishman. 
 
 The Maoris always regarded it as just and right to 
 kill any members of the hapu or clan to which the 
 slayer of their own clansman belonged. Nor had they 
 any sacred fane, or city of refuge, as in Israel, where 
 the manslayer could find asylum. Many years elapsed 
 before they could understand or would submit to the 
 English law on the subject of murder. So great has 
 been the consideration shown by the successive colonial 
 governments for this custom of utu that if a Maori 
 murdered a settler for utu and then escaped to his hapu, 
 the authorities used merely to demand that he should 
 be given up to justice, and if the hapu refused, took no 
 steps to enforce the law. Thus was the law of England 
 defied ; but this is not now the case. The Government 
 of New Zealand would have gone to great lengths then 
 rather than provoke a Maori rebellion. But indeed 
 there is not much fear of that now, ever since the plucky 
 arrest of Te Whiti, the false prophet of the Maoris, at 
 Parihaka, by the Hon. John Bryce in 1881, and the 
 impressive effect on the native mind of King Tawhiao's 
 
 E
 
 50 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 visit in 1884 to England. Those natives who directly 
 trade with the settlers, and have tasted the luxuries of 
 civilization in the form of money, tobacco, liquors, 
 furniture, clothes, silk dresses, watches, jewellery, &c., 
 have more common sense than to provoke a rupture 
 which would deprive them of these tilings for a time. 
 By a wise provision of the law, it is a punishable offence 
 for a white man to sell liquor, arms, or ammunition to 
 a Maori. Though frequently evaded, this law has done 
 much to put down intertribal massacres and murderous 
 quarrels, the result of drunken sprees. For it must be 
 borne in mind that the Maori drinks liquor in order to 
 'get drunk, and knows no such thing as moderate 
 drinking. The natives are now amenable to New 
 Zealand law, exactly the same as the whites. There is 
 very little crime among the Maoris, and what there is 
 decreases year by year. 
 
 4th. The korero, or tribal assembly for the public 
 discussion of war, peace, or other matters, was always 
 held in the whare-puni, or council-room, the largest 
 building in the Jcainga, adorned usually with elaborate 
 carvings, and painted. The head of each family squatted 
 on the ground in a circle round the chief of highest rank 
 among them. There was no want of ready speakers. 
 One generally finds this to be the case in aboriginals of 
 comparatively high cranial development who are not 
 possessed of a written language. This circumstance so 
 trains the memory that the old chiefs and priests could 
 not only recite to the visitor all the old legends many 
 of them weird and poetic, some grotesque and indecent 
 but could reckon up at least twenty-seven generations 
 back with perfect correctness. Furthermore, every 
 white man was known by a certain native nick-name, 
 derived from some personal peculiarity, and by this 
 name was known throughout the Maori nation. Nor 
 did any Maori forget a face he had once seen. The 
 meetings I have witnessed between Judge Maning and 
 Maori friends who had not seen him for twenty, thirty, 
 or even forty years were quite affecting so fond were 
 thev all of him and were interesting corroborations
 
 TEE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 51 
 
 of the possession of this gift of quick and tenacious 
 observation and memory. To return to the korero, 
 however, one orator after another would spring to their 
 feet and with mere, a sharp-edged club of greenstone 
 (very valuable), or spear in hand, and mat or cloak 
 waving from the shoulder, would move up and down 
 with stately step, which would quicken to a run when 
 the speaker became excited. His length of walk (or 
 run) being timed exactly to the length and point of the 
 sentences gave a rhythmical cadence which almost 
 converted the speech into an operatic recitative. 
 Graceful action, impassioned appeal, the chanting of a 
 song of love, war, or death, the apt quotation of proverbs, 
 legends, and epigrams, and the clever choice of natural 
 similitudes all this evinced oratorical power of a high 
 order. At the end of the korero the tribal policy 
 resolved upon was announced by the chief, and a feast 
 terminated the proceedings. 
 
 For the preservation of the best Maori legends and 
 poetry, Sir George Grey, who has had such a marked 
 success in his diplomacy with the natives, has done 
 more than any other living man. For the story of the 
 good " Maui," who is fabled to have brought up New 
 Zealand from the depths of the ocean hence its name 
 " Te Ika o Maui," " the fish of Maui ; " for the pretty 
 story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai and other legends, 
 readers are referred to the collection made by Sir George 
 Grey, to Domett's " Eanolf and Amohia," and to works 
 by J. White, T. W. Gudgeon, E. Tregear, and others. 
 
 5th. The celebrated haka, or national dance, similar 
 to the hula-hula of the Hawaiians, seems to have gone 
 out of fashion, and the tame and "got up" imitations 
 of it by travelling Maori troupes, or by native loafers 
 to amuse visitors at the Hot Lakes are not like what 
 the old settlers saw. It was a dance of an indecorous 
 nature, accompanied by the chanting of amorous songs, 
 and was usually performed by the women only. As I 
 have never had the opportunity of seeing one, I cannot 
 describe it, and it is the unanimous wish of the philo- 
 Maori that it should be allowed to disappear. 
 
 E 2
 
 52 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 6th. The tangi, or weeping, meant originally the 
 ceremonial mourning for the death of a chief or great 
 man, but the weeping was also practised on the occasion 
 of meeting a long-absent relative or friend. The entire 
 tangi ceremony, of which I was fortunate enough to 
 be a spectator at Ohinemutu, in December, 1880, in 
 company with Judge Maning, Mr. S. Jackson, sen., 
 and Mr. B. Proude, is an interesting relic of the 
 elaborate and demonstrative mournings for the dead 
 common to most primitive nations, of which we read in 
 Genesis 1., Numbers xx., Samuel xxxi., Zechariah xii., 
 and other parts of the Old Testament. 
 
 I will briefly describe what we saw at Ohinemutu. 
 The chief who had died was of high rank, and the 
 visitors were expected to consider it an honour to be 
 invited to this tangi. The leader of our party of four, 
 Judge F. E. Maning, being a great favourite with the 
 Maoris, was specially urged to attend, and was good 
 enough to translate to us much of what was " said or 
 sung," 
 
 Many natives walking in to Te Ngae, the name of 
 the mission station where the tangi was being held, 
 were overtaken by our carriage, and everyone greeted 
 the worthy judge with enthusiasm. Most had come 
 long distances to do honour to the deceased. 
 
 The body of the dead chief had been laid on a bier, 
 wrapped in flax mats, but leaving the head exposed, 
 which was decorated with feathers; the sons and 
 nearest relatives of the deceased were seated on the 
 ground near the corpse. As each visitor arrived he or 
 she went straight up to the body, and was greeted by 
 each relative by the hongi, or rubbing of noses, the 
 Maori substitute for kissing, followed by each em- 
 bracing the other and weeping upon the neck, in true 
 Eastern fashion. Eound the inner circle of relatives 
 were the professional mourners, women who continued 
 all day a wailing chant without words, like the " keen- 
 ing" at an Irish wake. Some of these women also 
 kept up another ancient custom, that of cutting their 
 faces, arms, and breasts with pieces of obsidian and
 
 THE MAORIS AND THElfi CUSTOMS. 53 
 
 sharp-edged shells, making the blood flow mildly, 
 however, not as profusely as described so graphically 
 in " Old New Zealand " by my departed friend, Judge 
 Maning, who remarked the contrast of the old-time 
 tangi and the modern affair. Each native visitor 
 joined in the wailing for a few minutes and then 
 mixed in the crowd that sat around. Some of the 
 women kept lifting their hands to heaven, quivering 
 in that strange way one sees Maoris do when under 
 real or assumed excitement. All this went on until 
 sundown, when the funeral feast was spread, the 
 pakehas being cordially invited. Huge piles of pork, 
 cooked in the Maori ovens, of potatoes, sweet potatoes, 
 bread, and koura (a very palatable fresh- water crayfish), 
 were vigorously attacked by the company. The only 
 incongruous and injurious element in the repast was the 
 whisky passed round by a white man, who wished to 
 ingratiate himself with the natives, and perhaps once 
 again become Minister of the Native Department. I 
 was glad to see many Maoris refuse it, being total 
 abstainers. Up to the time (9 P.M.) our party left 
 there was no intoxication. 
 
 In old times the corpse of the cliief was wrapped in 
 his best garment and buried in the ground in a sitting 
 posture, his face turned towards the north, where is Te 
 Eeinga, the Maori Hades (somewhere about Cape 
 Maria van Diemen); or placed in a tree in the 
 darkest recesses of an adjacent forest. Then, after 
 about two years, the body was exhumed, the bones 
 were scraped clean, painted red, and, with another 
 tangi, placed either (1) in a small house resting on a 
 pole, or (2) on the top of a sacred (tapu) tree, or (3) in a 
 cave difficult of access. Nowadays Christian burial is 
 the rule, and the bone-scraping with its attendant and 
 subsequent ceremonies is a thing of the past. 
 
 7th. The word " vnana" so freely used in Maori 
 traditions, and in all literature descriptive of the 
 Maoris, deserves a passing explanation. Its meaning, 
 according to the way in which it is used by the speaker, 
 comprises prestige, power, influence, and a certain
 
 54 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 magical property which we call "luck," the Germans 
 " gliick," the Eomans " virtus." 
 
 There was the mana of a tohunga, or priest, which 
 was proved by the truth of his predictions. Some of 
 these gentry were skilled in ventriloquism (vide " Old 
 New Zealand"), which gave them great mana. The 
 success of a chief or warrior gave him mana, which he 
 might lose by subsequent defeat. A spear, club, or 
 mere may have a mana which by tradition had become 
 regarded, like King Arthur's sword Excalibur, as some- 
 thing supernatural. 
 
 Among the leading men of the colony who have had 
 the greatest mana with the Maoris have been the first 
 Bishop Selwyn, Sir George Grey, Dr. Featherston, and 
 Eobert Graham, Esq. 
 
 Some colonists have complained that while the 
 Maori has a sense, though limited, of justice and of 
 honesty, he has no gratitude, and is selfish and covetous. 
 To this charge a noble answer was made by the great 
 Bishop Selwyn, the founder of the Church of England 
 in New Zealand. " When I hear of the covetousness 
 and ingratitude and selfishness of the Maoris," said 
 he, " I have only to look into the faces of Henry and 
 Lot [his two native lay helpers], the most helpful, the 
 least self-seeking, and the best tempered of all com- 
 panions, and forget all the accusations brought against 
 their race by Englishmen who see their own failings 
 reflected in the native mirror, without recognizing them 
 as their own. The charges of ingratitude made against 
 the natives are generally made by those who have 
 given them the least reason to be grateful. For myself 
 I must say that I have met with so much disinterested 
 kindness from the Maoris that I should be as un- 
 grateful as they are supposed to be if I did not 
 acknowledge my obligations." I can corroborate from 
 personal experience the testimony of this great and 
 good man. Even though the Maori language does not 
 contain words directly meaning gratitude, hope, faith, 
 and other abstract ideas, yet the Maori can express these 
 sentiments in his simple and terse way. We must not
 
 THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 55 
 
 take our ideas of the typical Maori, as so many 
 transient visitors do, from the loafing, shilling-hunting, 
 grog-drinking Maori of the Eotorua and Taupo districts 
 a man who has lost all the virtues of the savage and 
 gained the vices of the European. Should we, as 
 Englishmen, like to be judged as a race from many of 
 our fellow-countrymen who haunt our show places and 
 attend our horse-races ? The history of the colony 
 shows the Maori in a far from unfavourable light on 
 the whole. Even during their wars of independence 
 the natives showed generosity to their foes. At 
 Kororareka they captured Lieutenant Philpotts, a son of 
 the celebrated Bishop of Exeter, and in admiration of 
 his bravery not only released him, but returned him 
 his pistols and sword. In the war of 1863, the hostile 
 chief, hearing that General Cameron's forces were 
 short of provisions, sent down the river Waikato 
 canoes carrying a large supply of food for our soldiers. 
 A chief's daughter, baptized as Julia, and her husband 
 saved the entire crew of the ship Delaware, which was 
 wrecked on the coast at Wakapuaka, near Nelson 
 (Middle Island), by bravely swimming out in the 
 breakers with a rope to a rock from which they threw 
 it on board the ship. Space fails to mention many 
 other pleasing facts of a like kind. An eminent young 
 Baptist Christian, Graham Tawhai, whose early death, 
 a few years since, was widely deplored, showed what a 
 grand character natural talent, deep conscientiousness, 
 early conversion to the faith, and a good education 
 could evolve from a pure-blooded Maori, the descendant 
 of thirty generations of cannibal ancestors. An in- 
 teresting little book, entitled " Our Maoris," by Lady 
 Martin, narrates many touching incidents of genuine 
 conversions to Christianity and of adherence to the 
 faith, in the face of ridicule (to which all Maoris are 
 keenly susceptible), boycotting, persecutions, and war. 
 Old " Mohi," as he is called, Moses being his baptismal 
 name, one of the converts mentioned in this book, is 
 personally known to me. For more than thirty years 
 he has been an honest and faithful servant, first to
 
 56 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 the Hon. William Swainson until his death, and 
 latterly to Sir George Grey, and a consistent Christian. 
 He speaks very little English, but travellers would, by 
 the aid of an interpreter, find a talk with him very 
 interesting, as he is one of the few remaining living 
 links with the past ages of Maori heathendom. 
 
 No Polynesian race has shown a greater aptitude for 
 civilization than the Maori. The wonderful vigour and 
 tenacity of life of the Maori race induce me. to believe 
 that in time they will blend into the mixed nation called 
 " young New Zealand," just as the Celts have blended 
 into our Anglo- Saxon-Danish-No rman nation, and that 
 the ranks of this young nation will furnish to the world 
 orators, politicians, poets, merchants, and warriors equal 
 in bravery, ability, and energy to any of those born of 
 a purely white race.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Its position Geographical and commercial importance The 
 Corinth of the South The third city in Australasia by popula- 
 tion Sheltered harbour Graving docks Picturesque approach 
 to the city Public buildings Grey collection of MSS. City 
 government Newspapers Ueve'opments of Art, Music, Science 
 and Literature Queen Street shopping Telephones Halls and 
 theatres Y. M. C. A. building Ostrich farming Acclimatized 
 farmers Wonderful growth of the city during past nine years. 
 
 As the limited space of this volume will not permit 
 a detailed description of all the four chief cities of the 
 colony, I have selected the place of my residence for 
 nine years, many features of which find their counter- 
 parts in the other New Zealand towns. 
 
 The city of Auckland, situated in south latitude 
 36 50', and east longitude 174 50', is the metropolis of 
 the Auckland Provincial District, the climatic cha- 
 racters of which have been described in chapter ii. 
 This district extends from the North Cape southwards 
 to Gisborne, and thence westwards along the 39th 
 parallel of latitude to the Tuhua and Mokau rivers, and 
 contains an area of seventeen million acres, or about 
 one-fourth of the whole area of the colony. The 
 population of this area has increased from 85,773 in 
 1878 to 135,627 in the year 1887. In the latter year 
 there were 4286 births (including one case of triplets 
 and 47 twin births), 833 marriages the largest number 
 in any province during 1887 and 1501 deaths. The 
 population of the City of Auckland has increased even 
 more rapidly than that of the district. For by the 
 last official census. (1886), if we place Auckland in the
 
 58 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 same plane with the cities of Wellington, Christchurch, 
 and Dunedin, by including her suburbs, " we are struck 
 by the fact," says the Evening Star, " that her popula- 
 tion amounts to 62,000, thus placing her in the position 
 of the premier city of New Zealand, and the third city 
 in Australasia." That is to say, Auckland comes after 
 Sydney and before Adelaide in population. The order 
 of the New Zealand chief cities then, according to the 
 EveniTig Star, is 
 
 Auckland .... 62,000 
 
 Dunedin .... 46,205 
 
 Christchurch .... 39,000 
 
 Wellington .... 27,000 
 
 A glance at our map of New Zealand will show that 
 Auckland, situated on the inlet of the Hauraki Gulf, 
 called Waitemata, is the northernmost, and therefore 
 nearest to Australia (Sydney), to the Pacific Islands, 
 and to America, of the four provincial capitals. This 
 geographical advantage makes it the Liverpool of the 
 colony, for it will become the great distributing port 
 when once the North Island Trunk railway connects it 
 with Wellington ; and this advantage will be enhanced by 
 the opening of the Panama Canal at some not too distant 
 day, let us hope. The opening of the Canal would 
 bring Auckland within twenty-eight days of Liverpool. 
 It has been called the " Corinth of the South," because 
 of its site on an isthmus between the east and west 
 coast. By Onehunga, distant only six miles by rail, on 
 the Manukau harbour, it commands the traffic to New 
 Plymouth, Wellington, and Nelson southwards, and 
 that to the Kaipara district northwards (see map No. 1). 
 Froude so aptly terms it the Naples of Maoriland, and 
 the " City of Delightful Views," that I have borrowed 
 part of his first epithet for my chapter heading. No- 
 where in the whole of New Zealand is the dolce far 
 niente so alluring as in Auckland, where the lazzaroni 
 are faintly represented by the Maoris, and Vesuvius by 
 Eangitoto or Mount Eden both, however, dead apo- 
 logues of their living prototype. There is not in the
 
 AUCKLAND, TEE NAPLES Of NEW ZEALAND. 59 
 
 Southern Hemisphere a more extensive or lovely scene 
 than the panorama of Auckland, its suburbs, its 
 harbour, its islands, the coasts on both sides of the 
 North Island, and the hill ranges on the south viewed 
 on a clear sunny day from the summit of Mount Eden. 
 Nor is there a more enjoyable drive anywhere in the 
 colony than from Queen Street to St. John's College 
 through Remuera, and back by Ellerslie and the Great 
 South Road. 
 
 The founding of the settlement of Auckland took 
 place in 1840, when Queen Street was a marshy valley, 
 down which a sluggish stream found its way to the sea. 
 It became the seat of government on the 19th of Sep- 
 tember, 1840, and retained that proud position until the 
 Imperial authorities moved the capital to Wellington, 
 as being more central, in 1865, during the premiership 
 of my friend, Sir Frederick Aloysius Weld, K.C.M.G. 
 The blow to Auckland was great for a time, but it 
 rapidly emerged into prosperity again, the Thames 
 goldfields bringing in population, capital and machinery. 
 The clay hills abutting on the harbour were cut down, 
 scarped, and terraced for residences. Queen Street 
 developed into the main business artery of the city, and 
 streets were cut out of the hills, at right angles to it, 
 up to the foot of Upper Queen Street, where several 
 side streets debouch in a fan-shape at the present day. 
 The rapid growth of the population may be judged of 
 when I state that in the period between the two last 
 censuses those of 1881 and 1886 Auckland increased 
 by 62 per cent., while in the ten years between 1871 
 and 1881 Melbourne had only increased by 37 per cent., 
 and Sydney by 64 per cent. Our photograph in the 
 frontispiece is the only one obtainable on a small scale, 
 showing the prettiest part of the view looking north- 
 east from Mount Eden, the houses in the foreground 
 being those in Symonds Street and Grafton Road. 
 Besides the numerous islands (Great and Little 
 Barrier, Tiri-tiri, Waiheke, Motutapu, Motuihi) that 
 shelter the Waitemata harbour we have, in this view, 
 the extinct crater island of Rangitoto (1), built up by
 
 60 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Nature from the bottom of the sea, whose summit is 
 902 feet above high-water mark, and the long, narrow 
 peninsula called the North Shore, with its two extinct 
 craters of the North Head (2) and Mount Victoria (3), 
 344 feet in height, which guard still more surely the 
 tranquillity of the waters from the storms which rage 
 outside. The breadth of the harbour, at its entrance, 
 opposite the North Head (2) is two miles. The borough 
 of Devonport (4) is about three miles from Queen Street 
 Wharf. In the illustration, the small portion of the 
 adjacent eastern suburb of Parnell (8) is visible, also 
 Mechanics' Bay (7), the Supreme Court (6), where the 
 assizes are held ; the Government House (5), where the 
 Governor lives when he visits Auckland, and a glimpse 
 of the Albert Park (10) of fifteen acres, beautifully laid 
 out, where a band plays in summer, and whence charm- 
 ing views are obtained of the harbour and islands. To 
 the right of the foreground of our photograph, but only 
 marked by the tops of two trees is the Domain, a lovely 
 but " unkempt " park of 196 acres in area, dividing 
 Auckland from the borough of Parnell, and containing 
 the finest cricket ground in the colony, so large that 
 fifteen matches have been played simultaneously upon 
 it. Besides hundreds of acclimatized trees and shrubs 
 from every part of the world, the Domain displays the 
 native flora of this part of New Zealand. Otherwise 
 the visitor will not find the native shrubs growing any- 
 where until he reaches Eemuera, where there is a patch of 
 the Manuka bush, the Ti-tree (Leptospermum ericoides). 
 The Kauri is not to be found nearer than Waikomiti, 
 eleven miles to the north-west. Queen Street lies to the 
 left of our picture, outside its limits. 
 
 The boast of Auckland being its facilities and 
 advantages as a port, let us state a few facts which 
 amply justify this. Queen Street terminates at its 
 harbour end in a fine wharf 1680 feet long, having a 
 depth of 24 feet at low spring tides. Thus any of the 
 largest steamers (5000 tons) that visit Auckland can 
 lie, load, and unload at the city, instead of being eight 
 miles away at a separate seaport, as in the case of
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 61 
 
 Christclmrch (Lyttelton) and Dunedin (Port Chalmers). 
 There are two other wharves, the railway wharf, 1000 
 feet long, and Hobson Street wharf, 500 feet. The 
 old graving dock is near the latter. The new graving 
 dock, called " Calliope Dock," after having been 
 opened by the ironclad of that name in 1887, is the 
 largest south of the line, being 550 feet long, 83 feet 
 wide, and 33 feet deep on the sill. It cost the Auckland 
 Harbour Board 150,000, and has greatly enhanced 
 the value of the port as a place for the repair of the 
 large vessels of her Majesty's navy and of large 
 steamers. The " fairway " of the channel is so capa- 
 cious that even at low water several large steamers, 
 ships, and war ships can ride together at anchor without 
 fear of colliding or of grounding. Sir W. F. D. Jervois, 
 the late Governor, whose departure is still regretted, 
 stated in his " Eeport on the Defences of New Zealand " 
 that there is no harbour in Australasia more suitable 
 for naval defence. In accordance, therefore, with his 
 advice powerful batteries have been erected on Stark's 
 Point, North Head, and Mount Victoria (North Shore), 
 and at Parnell, on Point Ptesolution. " It is worthy of 
 note," says Brett's Almanac, " that for the last fifty years 
 not a single shipping accident of any great importance 
 has occurred in this harbour." The port of Auckland 
 is the last place of departure and the first of arrival of 
 the American steamers which at present carry the 
 monthly mail between New South Wales, New Zealand, 
 and the United States, delivering them in eighteen to 
 twenty days from Auckland to San Francisco, whence 
 they are forwarded across to New York, reaching London 
 generally in thirty-four or thirty-five days from New 
 Zealand. The Direct Mail steamers of both lines visit 
 Auckland as cargo requires ; the Colonial Line run regu- 
 larly ; the Union Steamship Company of New Zealand 
 have much traffic there ; the Northern Steamship Com- 
 pany have their headquarters there ; and, besides large 
 ocean ships, there is a very large fleet of smaller ships 
 trading to the Pacific Islands. During the year 1887 
 there entered the port 4085 vessels, of the aggregate
 
 62 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 tonnage of 355,608 tons; and 3850 vessels of 393,342 tons 
 total cleared the port. The crews of inward and outward 
 vessels numbered no less than 56,067 men. In tonnage 
 Auckland exceeds that of any other New Zealand port. 
 Let us now imagine ourselves entering the harbour 
 from the ocean. Having passed the island of Tiri-tiri, 
 marked by its lighthouse, we obtain, as we coast along 
 the north or ocean side of the North Shore peninsula, 
 our first glimpse of the picturesque city across the low- 
 lying land near Lake Takapuna. It reminds some 
 travellers of the first distant sight of Constantinople 
 and the Golden Horn, and gives the impression of a 
 greater area than the city covers in reality. Two 
 groups of hills with a valley between them are covered 
 with houses, churches, public buildings, and gardens, as 
 far as the eye can reach. In a few minutes we lose 
 sight of Auckland, and do not regain it till we pass 
 round the North Head on our right hand, leaving the 
 curious round island-volcano, Rangitoto (the meaning 
 of which is " bloody sky ") on our left. We pass 
 another island, Waiheke, away upon our left, before 
 turning round the Head. The Bean Rock lighthouse 
 now guides us to the channel. On the left we now 
 have the wealthiest and most highly ornate suburb of 
 Auckland, called Remuera (pronounced " Rem-u-air-a "), 
 where the hospitable commercial magnates mostly live. 
 Steaming further on, Parnell, with some lovely residences 
 and gardens sloping to the water's edge, is passed on 
 the left, Devonport and the big dock on the right, and 
 then Auckland, " the Queen City of the Pacific," as my 
 friend Mr. Consul Griffin enthusiastically styles her, is 
 reached. The existence of the batteries, torpedoes, and 
 submarine mines, which defend the harbour, is so care- 
 fully concealed, that an air of perfect peacefulness and 
 security pervades the scene. On the Devonport side the 
 broken-up irregular outline of the rocky beach, resem- 
 bling that of Biarritz, and the luxuriant verdure of the 
 hills and trees, serve to heighten the picturesqueness of 
 the brightly painted and verandah-shaded houses. On 
 the city side the handsome Hospital, standing on an
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 63 
 
 eminence in its own capacious reserve, the church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, the red-and-white Supreme Court, 
 and Government House arrest attention. Auckland, 
 we see, is built on groups of clay and scoria hills, inter- 
 sected by valleys all trending to the sea, and is backed 
 up by volcanic peaks, like Honolulu, one of which, 
 Mount Eden, is 644 feet high, and is now utilized as 
 a reservoir. A lively district must this have been in 
 ancient times, for Dr. Hochstetter counted no less than 
 sixty-three distinct craters within a ten-mile radius ! 
 However, no fear is felt now of any revival of volcanic 
 action, especially since the outburst of Tarawera, 
 chronicled in chapter vii., has relieved the pent-up forces 
 in that district, 120 miles distant. Looking up Queen 
 Street, the main thoroughfare, we notice the Baptist 
 Tabernacle, built for the son of Mr. C. H. Spurgeon, 
 which holds the largest congregation in the city. 
 
 Farther up the harbour, on the Auckland side, the 
 charming residences and gardens of Ponsonby extend 
 along the cliffs. A singular-looking island, called the 
 Watchman, stands in mid-channel, while to the right, 
 on high ground, stand the North Shore suburbs, North- 
 cote, Birkenhead, and Chelsea. If we wish, we can 
 steam fifteen miles farther up the Waitemata, meeting 
 delightful views at every turn. The abundant sun- 
 shine, illuminating an atmosphere absolutely free from 
 smoke and fog, reflected from the sparkling blue waters 
 of the harbour, and from the gaily painted houses, the 
 numbers of pleasure-boats darting here and there, and 
 the absence of all appearance of squalor and poverty 
 all combine to make one love Auckland at first sight. 
 
 Though not yet quite half a century old, Auckland is 
 very well provided by the Government, by the city coun- 
 cil, and by the munificence of its citizens, with public 
 buildings. Sir George Grey, J. T. Mackelvie, Edward 
 Costley, Dr. Campbell, and others, have literally 
 bestowed the accumulations of their lifetimes in art, 
 literature, science, and money upon their fellow-towns- 
 men. The special pride of the educated Aucklanders 
 is the Free Library and Art Gallery recently built in
 
 64 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Wellesley Street East, at the cost of 40,000, by the 
 city, because it is enriched by the noble gift of Sir 
 George Grey's priceless collection of old MSS., rare 
 books, autographs, antiquities, and ethnological curio- 
 sities. Sir George Grey presented it to the city in 
 1887 as a free gift for ever. Having inspected these 
 treasures myself at his beautiful home in the Kawau 
 Island, seven years before the generous donor presented 
 them to Auckland (where he now resides), I may be 
 permitted to make an extract from my note on that 
 occasion. " Some of the gems of the collection are the 
 following: The MS. of the Four Gospels, tenth 
 century, with a picture of St. Matthew ; the MS. from 
 which the first Bible was printed by Gutenberg in 
 1450 ; a copy of the first Dutch Bible, and of the first 
 book printed at Delft in 1477 ; a Missal ad mum (2 vols.) 
 written on vellum, fifteenth century, in Gothic hand, 
 with music of the chants and sixty- three miniatures, each 
 six inches square ; a Petrarch on vellum, with miniature 
 portraits of the finest kind ; a rare copy of the first 
 Malagasy Bible ; a New Testament in the aboriginal 
 language, now extinct, of New South Wales, and a 
 dictionary of another extinct language, the Cree 
 Indian ; the original MS. of the secret treaty Cromwell 
 made with the Low Countries ; the signatures of Marie 
 Antoinette and Louis XVI. ; autograph letters of 
 Cromwell, Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, Livingstone, 
 Moifat, Florence Nightingale, Carlyle, Thiers, and of 
 many other famous men and women." 
 
 If even the services rendered to New Zealand by her 
 most distinguished statesman are in time forgotten, the 
 Grey Library, unless destroyed by fire (which Heaven 
 forefend !), will immortalize his name and fame. 
 
 The various philanthropic and religious institutions 
 aided or constructed out of the magnificent legacy of 
 nearly 100,000 left by Edward Costley, an Irish 
 mechanic who amassed money in the early days of 
 Auckland, and lived so frugally as to be called a miser, 
 are seven in number The Sailors' Eest and Home, 
 the Kohimarama Training School, the Costley Indus-
 
 AUCKLAND, TEE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 65 
 
 trial Home, the Parnell Orphan Asylum, the District 
 Hospital, the Old People's Eefuge, and the Free Library. 
 The Sailors' Home, including the Sailors' Eest, founded 
 by Bishop Cowie in 1881 " for the physical, moral, and 
 spiritual benefit of the seafaring community," was built 
 out of the Costley legacy of 12,150, and opened 
 in 1887. An excellent site was given gratis by the 
 Harbour Board, near the graving-dock at the foot of 
 Albert Street. The cost, including furniture, was 
 4500, and an endowment income of 500 a year was 
 still left. The building is a credit to the city, and 
 harmonises well with the adjacent handsome Harbour 
 Board offices. The Home accommodates fifty inmates, 
 and is largely used by sailors, especially when ships of 
 her Majesty's navy are in port. The mission work 
 among sailors, oyster-men, fisher-boys, and longshore- 
 men, in which ladies take a part, goes on earnestly and 
 successfully. In no other New Zealand seaport is so 
 much done as in Auckland to give them a hearty wel- 
 come and to keep them out of temptation and danger. 
 
 The Costley Industrial Home, under the wise man- 
 agement of Colonel Haultain and Captain Daldy, gives 
 free board and education to poor boys of good character 
 until they are of an age to be apprenticed to trades. 
 After that it still supports them until they are able to 
 earn their living. The endowment income from the 
 Costley legacy accruing to the Free Library is set apart 
 for the annual purchase of books. The other insti- 
 tutions enriched by Costley need no special description, 
 except that of all the blessings showered upon his tomb 
 none can be more fervent than that of the poor old 
 men and women of the Eefuges who are about to 
 change their damp and unhealthy abode for a spacious 
 and salubrious country residence. 
 
 The large and imposing building of the Young Men's 
 Christian Association in Wellesley Street West is the 
 centre of much aggressive Christian work. I believe 
 the building cost 7500. The Eev. J. S^ Hill was 
 when I left its energetic president. On the top floor 
 of this building is to be found the best-equipped 
 
 F
 
 66 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 gymnasium in the colony. The lecture-room will seat 
 700, and has the best acoustic properties of any room I 
 ever spoke in. Under the auspices of the Young Men's 
 Christian Association, Major Dane, Joseph Cook, the 
 Earl of Aberdeen, and other distinguished visitors have 
 addressed large audiences in the City Hall, which is the 
 transformed Theatre Royal of old. In 1888 the aged 
 but vigorous Pastor George Muller addressed crowded 
 audiences here for several weeks. In 1887 the Countess 
 of Aberdeen delivered an address to above 500 ladies of 
 Auckland, including the large Young Women's Christian 
 Association, which for love, pathos, and wisdom was 
 almost the best I ever read. Should these pages ever meet 
 the eye of the gracious lady who thus cheered the hearts 
 of the toilers of her own sex in that distant city, let me 
 assure her that there were hundreds who benefitted by 
 its perusal in the papers who could not even get near 
 the door of the building. 
 
 The Auckland Savings Bank is a handsome building 
 in Queen Street, built out of the profits of the first twenty 
 years of its existence. The architecture of the other 
 banks is not equal to that of similar buildings in 
 Christchurch or Dunedin. The Post and Telegraph 
 Office in Shortland Street is scarcely large enough for 
 the rapidly increasing mail business of the city. The 
 Choral Hall in Symonds Street seats 900 persons, and is 
 owned by the Choral Society, who enjoy the distinction 
 of being the only society of the kind in Australasia 
 who own their hall. The orchestra and chorus number 
 about 150, and at least five subscription concerts of 
 high-class music, conducted by Herr Schmitt, are given 
 every season. Distinguished visitors are sometimes 
 honoured by a special concert, and leave Auckland 
 highly pleased with the excellence of the performances. 
 The latest development, I learn by the newspapers, is a 
 Ladies' Orchestra. It is in contemplation to build a 
 town hall and also a Mackelvie Art Gallery. I have 
 110 space to mention all the other public buildings. 
 
 Auckland is governed by a mayor, elected annually 
 by the whole body of ratepayers, as in the United
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 67 
 
 States, and by eighteen councillors, two for each of the 
 nine wards into which the city is divided. The municipal 
 debt is 424,000 ; the rateable value of real estate in 
 1887 was 367,822 ; and the rates amounted to two 
 shillings in the pound. The endowments of the city 
 from leaseholds amount to 10,000 per annum. A 
 recent loan, negotiated in London, realized the highest 
 price ever obtained for a colonial security in the 
 London market. The city is fairly well drained and 
 lighted ; has an excellent water supply ; fresh and salt 
 water baths ; is well paved ; and well supplied with 
 trams, omnibuses, and cabs. The electric lighting of 
 a part of the city and of the wharves is being arranged 
 for. The telephone system is a great success in 
 Auckland, there being over 500 subscribers already to 
 the Exchange. Telephones are a Government monopoly, 
 but are very moderate in cost, namely, 10 for the first 
 year and 8 a year afterwards; consequently doctors 
 and chemists invariably use them, and business men 
 have their residences and offices connected by telephone. 
 
 The newspapers of Auckland are well conducted and 
 widely read. The New Zealand Herald is the only 
 daily morning paper (2c?.), and the Auckland Evening 
 Star (Id.) is now the only evening paper; its certified 
 circulation is 11,500 daily. By means of cablegrams 
 and enterprising English and American correspondents 
 the Auckland public are kept well informed of what is 
 passing in the world. The great questions of policy, 
 imperial or colonial, are often ably treated in the 
 leading articles. I have often been thankful that there 
 is no Whig or Tory in New Zealand, for there is no 
 " Government by party ; " nor is there that acerbity in 
 the discussion of burning questions in the newspapers 
 of New Zealand that one finds at home. The two 
 parties in New Zealand consist of the " Ins " and the 
 " Outs," and it is curious to see the same newspaper 
 advocating the " Ins " at one time and the " Outs " at 
 another. 
 
 In Art, Music, Science, and Literature Auckland is 
 quite in the front rank of New Zealand cities. The 
 
 F 2
 
 68 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 annual Art Exhibition held by the Society of Arts is a 
 most successful one, and elicits from visitors a large 
 mead of praise. In chapter xi. I shall allude more 
 particularly to the development of Art in Auckland. 
 In Music, Auckland may, without conceit, claim to be 
 the premier city in New Zealand, for it has now a Chair 
 of Music in its University College, the first occupant 
 of which, Professor Carl von Schmitt, Knight of two 
 foreign orders, is a distinguished musician and most 
 enthusiastic in his work. It is his intention to establish 
 a Conservatoire of Music in Auckland which shall give 
 a complete musical education to the student. His 
 numerous compositions are of high merit, and should be 
 known in England as well as in Germany. Except in 
 that country there is no town of the size of Auckland 
 that has so many students of promising talent in all 
 branches of music. The genial climate, the colouring 
 of the sky and sea, the surrounding scenery, and perhaps 
 a certain dreamy languor belonging to the air creates 
 artistic longings which find their expression in poetry, 
 music, or painting. 
 
 Science is represented by the Auckland branch of 
 the New Zealand Institute, by the small but well- 
 arranged Museum, and by the Science Department of 
 the University College. The membership of the Auck- 
 land Scientific Institute is about 300, and its meetings 
 are held in the winter in the lecture-room of the 
 Museum, to the painstaking, learned, and courteous 
 Director of which, Mr. Cheeseman, I must here express 
 my obligations for much kind assistance in scientific 
 matters. A Field Naturalists' club and a Microscopical 
 club have arisen from among the members of the 
 Institute. 
 
 In literature the Athenaeum Society takes the lead 
 and is doing good work. Its meetings are held in the 
 winter in the Arcade building, and the subjects dis- 
 cussed range over a wide area. There are numerous 
 literary societies in connection with the various denomi- 
 nations, and frequent popular scientific and literary 
 lectures are delivered in the rainy season.
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 69 
 
 There is only one theatre at present in Auckland, 
 Abbott's Opera House, in which operas, dramas, and 
 other entertainments are given with very little inter- 
 mission all the year round. The city is well off for 
 amusements both outdoor and indoor. The grounds of 
 Government House are open for lawn tennis, and 
 there are several other clubs for that amusement (see 
 chapter xi.). 
 
 Cycling, rinking, bowling, yachting, canoeing, boating 
 and fishing are the chief outdoor amusements. No 
 maritime city is better off for excursions by sea than 
 Auckland. The delightful health resort called Waiwera, 
 twenty-six miles north-east of Auckland, the Kawau 
 Island (until lately Sir George Grey's home) Motutapu, 
 where red deer may be shot by invited guests, Coro- 
 mandel, the Thames, and other places within easy reach 
 are greatly resorted to on holidays. Three miles out 
 from the city, southwards, are the Athletic Clubs' 
 Recreation Grounds, where the international, inter- 
 colonial, and other football matches are contested, 
 always attended by thousands of spectators, 
 
 Apropos of matches, hundreds of boys manage some- 
 how by acrobatic feats on trees and posts to get a free 
 sight of some of these, to the disgust of the managers of 
 the Athletic Eecreation Grounds. But an incident 
 which was an exception to the proverbial love of Auck- 
 landers for a "free show" is narrated of the visit of 
 " Professor " Baldwin, the aeronaut and parachutist, 
 who performed his ascent and descent in Auckland in 
 the summer of 1889. Thousands of sightseers assembled 
 on Mounts Eden and Hobson, where they had an 
 excellent view of the performance without payment. 
 But during the following week, Baldwin's agent was 
 inundated with letters containing stamps for the amount 
 of the gate-money a circumstance which deserves 
 chronicling, as being honourable to Auckland citizens. 
 It has become the usual thing for the mayor to order 
 a public half-holiday when a football or cricket match 
 comes off. 
 
 A new attraction has been lately added to Auck-
 
 70 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 land, in the shape of an ostrich farm. At "Welford 
 Park, about twenty-two miles ride from the city, 
 Mr. Laurence Nathan has started this affair at a great 
 expense, which I hope he will recoup. It is one of the 
 most interesting sights in the world to see the young 
 ostriches, hatched by an incubator, issue from the egg 
 as large as Cochin China fowls, and immediately start 
 devouring voraciously the chopped lucerne which is 
 provided for them. Each male bird has two hen birds 
 in his enclosure and has to be approached with great 
 caution. I am reminded of an amusing exercise a 
 Balclutha schoolboy wrote upon the ostrich, while 
 object lessons on cork and on water were floating in 
 his mind. 
 
 " Dear Sir, I take up my pen to let you know what I know 
 about an ostrich. An ostrich is the biggest bird in the world. It 
 is opaque and boyant, and lives in the desert of araba and africa, it 
 is of the camel class because it has a long neck. An ostrich has 
 three feathers, which the Prince of Wales says is ' I serve.' It 
 has three states sold liquid and gas. They have two toes on each 
 foot. An ostrich lays ten eggs at a time, and the mail bird helps 
 the hot sand to catch them. They are very fast runners and they 
 would never manage to catch them if the horses did not run very 
 fast in a zig-zag style like a Z. It pays well if you can catch a 
 good lot of birds, and the Hawklanders are trying to rear ostriches 
 in that province, because they can't grow oats there, and the 
 Maories eat their sheep." 
 
 Sunday is decorously observed, now that Sunday closure 
 of the hotels, except to bona-fide travellers, is strictly 
 enforced by the licensing committees. Not being a total 
 abstainer I am the more free to say that a great change 
 for the better in the state of the streets at night and 
 on Sundays has resulted from the week-day closing at 
 10 P.M. and the Sunday closing. Taking the colony as 
 a whole, the cause of teetotalism is gaining ground. This 
 is largely owing to the eloquence, energy, and organising 
 power of my friend Sir William Fox, K.C.M.G., who is 
 president of the United Kingdom Alliance for New 
 Zealand. 
 
 Auckland is the centre of the educational system of 
 the Province, comprising free Primary Schools, at which
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 71 
 
 21,000 children were attending in 1887, secondary 
 schools, the High Schools, Auckland College and 
 Grammar School, and others, and the Auckland Uni- 
 versity College, founded in 1883, which has proved very 
 successful. An account of these institutions is reserved 
 for the section Education in chapter ix. 
 
 The city of Auckland is well provided with table 
 luxuries at moderate prices. Not only are there thirty- 
 three kinds of edible native fishes in the sea, the prin- 
 cipal of which in the North are schnapper, kahawai, 
 mullet, flounder, garfish, and cod; also small oysters 
 of delicious flavour, crabs, lobsters, and crayfish, but 
 California salmon comes in, preserved in ice, by the mail 
 steamers ; turbot and sole from England, and turtle 
 from the South Pacific. 
 
 The Acclimatization Society of Auckland has done 
 noble work in importing game and song-birds, but all 
 its preserving efforts to naturalise the trout and salmon- 
 trout in the province have failed. The warmth of the 
 climate, the absence of both ground-food and flies 
 similar to those of Britain, and the voracity of the eels 
 and crayfish (Koura), which devour the young fry, are 
 thought to be the causes of this failure. In the 
 Wellington district, along the Wairarapa valley, how- 
 ever, I understand that the trout are thriving. The 
 license fees exacted by the Government for the privi- 
 lege of shooting during the " open season " are wisely 
 transferred to the exchequer of these Societies of 
 which there is one in each Province who are thus 
 enabled (being also assisted by subscriptions) to carry 
 on their good work. In the country districts, hares, 
 pheasants, the partridge, quail, snipe, plover, teal, and 
 red grouse afford excellent sport, a fact which should be 
 noted by my sporting readers. Whitebait is found in 
 profusion in the Waikato river. In the lakes, rivers, 
 and streams of the Middle Island acclimatization has 
 been so successful that the angler can now catch trout 
 of 15 or 20 Ibs., and salmon of 30 Ibs. weight in the 
 Lakes of Otago, while perch, tench and carp, are also 
 thriving in suitable places. When first colonized the
 
 72 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 lakes and rivers of New Zealand only produced eels, 
 crayfish, and a few salmonoid fishes of little value. 
 Unfortunately for the country, however, the sparrows, 
 blackbirds, (Australian) minahs, rats, and rabbits have 
 acclimatized only too well ! Stoats and weasels are 
 now being imported to keep down the rabbits, but it is 
 feared that the former will vary their rabbits' blood diet 
 with the vital fluid of fowls and ducks. 
 
 Much more in fact, an interesting little book might 
 be written about Auckland, but I must refrain. Enough 
 has been described to convey to the English reader the 
 great vigour, activity, resources, and advanced position 
 of this flourishing city. I will conclude by simply 
 enumerating some of the improvements and additions 
 to the city made since the beginning of 1880, and 
 included within the nine years of my residence. In 
 some of these I was privileged to take a share.: The 
 harbour greatly improved by the lengthening of Queen's 
 Wharf ; the construction of two new wharves ; the im- 
 portation of a powerful steam dredge, and the addition 
 of several new " tees ; " a complete system of harbour 
 defences constructed ; a submarine cable laid to Tiri-tiri ; 
 the immense Calliope Dock opened ; the New Zealand 
 Sugar Company's great refinery, wharf, and workmen's 
 village built at Chelsea ; near the water-front the 
 Sailors' Home, Harbour Offices, Palmerston Buildings, 
 railway station, and Firth's Eight Hours' Mill, lit 
 up by electricity; in the city the Free Library and 
 Art Gallery, Abbott's Opera House; Young Men's 
 Christian Association Building, Baptist Tabernacle, 
 St. Sepulchre's and St. Benedict's churches, eight 
 large hotels, the Victoria Arcade, Australian Mutual 
 Provident Building ; New Savings Bank Building ; 
 Turkish baths, Auckland College and Grammar School, 
 Boys' Training Home ; new wing to Lunatic Asylum, 
 two new reservoirs, Star printing-offices, many large 
 warehouses, shops, and private residences. Tram-cars 
 have been introduced ; the side walks have been asphalted 
 under the reign of Mayor Waddel, and the following 
 societies and clubs established : the Benevolent Society,
 
 AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 73 
 
 Christian Evidence Society, Sailors' Eest, Boys' Eest, 
 Athenaeum, Field Naturalists' Club, Sketching Club, 
 Amateur Photographic Club, Amateur Opera Club, and 
 others. " If a more general knowledge," says Mr. Consul 
 Griffin, of the United States, " prevailed abroad in re- 
 gard to the genial climate of Auckland, I am sure that 
 a large migration hitherward would be the result ; and 
 I have not the slightest hesitation in saying that, as a 
 site for extensive commerce, she stands the Peerless 
 Queen of the Pacific."
 
 74 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE MINEKAL SPKINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 New Zealand first, Continent second, California third as to import- 
 ance of their mineral springs Seventy-three already analyzed 
 Arranged in five classes Three well-established spas : Waiwera, 
 Te Aroha, Rotorua The new town of Eotorua Arrangements 
 for visitors Mineral springs and baths described Priest's Bath 
 Madame Rachel Blue Bath Pain-killer Lake House baths 
 Oil bath Wonders of Tikitere Te Kute Hot waterfall 
 Diseases successfully treated by these baths Leprosy probably 
 curable by them The season for Rotorua Advice to invalids 
 " Business first, pleasure afterwards " Diet, &c. 
 
 No inhabited country in the world possesses mineral 
 waters in greater number, variety, and medicinal value 
 than New Zealand. Writing with a pretty extensive 
 experience of such springs in three quarters of the 
 globe, I am of opinion that New Zealand ranks first as 
 regards these advantages ; next in value comes the 
 central part of the continent of Europe ; and thirdly, 
 California. In some places in New Zealand thermal 
 springs are the sole remains of past subterranean 
 energy, while in others, as at White Island (Bay of 
 Plenty), they exist side by side with tremendously 
 active volcanic forces. With a few exceptions, the hot 
 springs are confined to those districts of the North 
 Island where volcanic forces have been active during 
 the latest Tertiary period ; but some are found to issue 
 from the Upper Mesozoic rocks in localities such as 
 the East Cape, where the source of heat can only be 
 attributed to the chemical decomposition of bitumen 
 and bituminous shales, and of sulphides. Three warm 
 springs (90 to 104) have been found also in Pakeozoic 
 rock formation in the Middle Island. 
 
 During the last few years travellers and invalids 
 from different parts of the world have been attracted to
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 75 
 
 these springs in increasing numbers, so that recently 
 the New Zealand Government have officially recognized 
 their benefit to the colony by establishing in the centre 
 of the Hot Lake district a sanitorium with a competent 
 medical officer at the head of it. Eotorua having been 
 thus favoured, Te Aroha is claiming a similar recogni- 
 tion, and will no doubt soon obtain it. This chapter 
 is the first attempt yet made by a medical man to 
 group together all the well-proved mineral springs of 
 New Zealand, and to contrast or compare them with 
 those of Europe, in such a way as to inform the general 
 reader, without confusing him by chemical technicalities, 
 and the medical reader without useless vagueness of 
 statement as to their nature and value. As no less 
 than seventy-three of these springs have been already 
 analyzed, it is important that English medical men 
 who recommend invalids to go to New Zealand should 
 have some definite information of this kind. The 
 excellent pamphlets of Drs. T. Hope Lewis and Ginders 
 are not circulated at Home, nor are they sufficiently 
 elaborate to base many recommendations upon. 
 
 Before giving a detailed account of the most im- 
 portant groups of these springs in the order of 
 medicinal value, I must remind readers that, first, the 
 constituents of a thermal spring do not remain con- 
 stantly uniform, but vary within slight limits; and, 
 second, that the temperatures of all thermal springs 
 vary considerably at times, according to the direction 
 of the wind, and are influenced by certain subterranean 
 changes. Both these facts show the absolute necessity 
 for frequent as. well as accurate observations and 
 analyses of each mineral water. 
 
 New Zealand contains hot sulphur springs of a kind 
 not found elsewhere, except in the Yellowstone Park 
 ill Wyoming, U.S., and silicious geysers not equalled 
 anywhere in the world. It also has mineral waters 
 of equal strength and of similar constituents to those 
 of Vichy, Ems, Eachingen, Bilin, Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 Pyrmont in Waldeck, Eaux Chaudes (Basses Pyrenees), 
 Royat (Auvergne), Harrogate, and Strathpeffer in
 
 76 NEW ZEALAND, 
 
 Scotland. This fact alone should be an inducement to 
 many sufferers from chronic ailments (gout, rheumatism, 
 gravel, skin diseases, syphilis, &c.), who remain still un- 
 cured after trial of the spas in Europe to visit the colony 
 and try what its springs will do for them. For I am 
 sure that in this grand exhilarating climate the mineral 
 waters best suited to his case will be found to do him 
 more good than they would on the continent of Europe. 
 Commencing with the feebler spring most resembling 
 that European spa which had best suited him, the 
 invalid will go on to one more powerful until he 
 completes the course of treatment, about which he will 
 find valuable suggestions in this chapter. He will, of 
 course, consult the resident medical man wherever 
 there is one, at these thermal resorts. There are fewer 
 potable mineral waters in New Zealand than in Europe, 
 because of the widely pervading sulphides in their com- 
 position, and the more recent character of the strata 
 through which they emerge. From the analyses made 
 in the colonial laboratory at Wellington by Mr. Skey 
 and Sir James Hector, the mineral waters of New Zealand 
 have been classified into the following five groups : 
 
 1. Saline, containing chiefly chloride of sodium 
 (common salt), for example, the Crow's Nest spring, 
 Taupo ; the Onetapu spring, Mount Euapehu. 
 
 2. Alkaline, containing carbonates and bi-carbonates 
 of soda and potash, such as Waiwera, Puriri, Whangape. 
 
 3. Alkaline-silicious, containing much silicic acid, 
 but changing rapidly on exposure to the air, and 
 becoming alkaline, such as the geysers at Whakare- 
 warewa, Kuirau, Whangapipiro (Eotorua). 
 
 4. Hepatic or sulphurous, the prominent character 
 of which is the presence of sulphuretted hydrogen and 
 sulphurous acid, such as Te Kute (Eotorua), and 
 Otumahike (Taupo). 
 
 5. Acidic, in which there is an excess of mineral 
 acids, such as hydrochloric and sulphuric acids. 
 Examples of these are found at Ohaeawai (Bay of 
 Islands) and Sulphur Bay, Lake Eotorua. 
 
 Iodine springs. It seems that out of the seventy-
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 77 
 
 three mineral springs analysed up to 1886, only three 
 contain iodine in appreciable quantities. In the Taupo 
 district Tarawera Spring contains 0*7 of a grain per 
 gallon, and Parkes's Spring contains one grain per 
 gallon ; in the province of Wellington the cold spring 
 of Pahua contains a little more than two grains per 
 gallon. The Maoris distinguish the various forms of 
 the hot springs as they appear on the surface by the 
 terms puia, applied to all geysers ; nyawha to a hot 
 steaming spring ; and waiariki to any pool of hot 
 water or mud suitable for bathing. 
 
 The principal chalybeate springs are those of Kamo, 
 Akiteo No. 2 (Wellington), Amberley (Canterbury), 
 and Chain Hills near Dunedin (Otago). 
 
 Before describing the composition and uses of the 
 mineral waters at our three principal spas Waiwera, 
 Te Aroha, and Eotorua I will briefly describe a few iso- 
 lated springs of peculiar properties which deserve notice. 
 
 1. At Ohaeawai, near a small lake seventeen miles 
 inland from the Bay of Islands (see map), is a group of 
 springs which deposit sulphur, alum, and silica on cool- 
 ing. The temperatures vary from 60 to 116 F., and 
 there is along with the hot water a remarkable escape 
 of mercurial vapours, which deposit cinnabar and me- 
 tallic mercury. These springs are used as baths by the 
 Maoris, and by a few Europeans, for diseases of the 
 skin, and chronic rheumatism of syphilitic origin. I 
 believe that Ohaeawai is unique in these characteristics. 
 
 2. Puriri, ten miles from Grahamstown (Thames), 
 near Auckland, is a cold effervescent spring, having 
 valuable properties from the presence of a large per- 
 centage of alkaline carbonates. It is bottled both as 
 still and aerated soda-water, and has a reputation 
 as an aperient and a preventive of gravel and gout. 
 It would prove useful in " acid " dyspepsia. The 
 famous Napa soda-water of California resembles this 
 Puriri water when bottled. Its chief constituents, esti- 
 mated in grains per gallon, are: chloride of sodium 
 22, sulphate of potash 5, bi-carbonates of lime 28*5, of 
 magnesia 25*6, of soda 452 3 grains.
 
 78 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 3. Onetapu Desert Spring, situated at the sources of 
 the Waikato and Wangaehu rivers, in the vicinity of the 
 still active volcano Ngauruhoe (7481 feet), and issuing 
 from the base of the Monarch of the North Island, 
 Euapehu (8878 feet), is so strongly charged with sul- 
 phates of iron and alumina (58 grains per pint) as to 
 taint the water of the river Wangaehu along its whole 
 course to the sea, a distance of seventy miles. 
 
 4. The cold spring of Pahua, in the province of Wel- 
 lington, deserves mention on account of its iodine and of 
 the large amount of its solid constituents, amounting to 
 1474 grains in the gallon. The waters of this spring, 
 though excessively salt in taste, will, in moderate 
 doses, prove curative in chronic abscesses, swollen 
 lymphatic glands, and other strumous or scrofulous 
 affections. The aperient action will be limited and 
 controlled by the lime salts (126 grains), while children 
 suffering from rickets and deformities of the joints w r ill 
 here find supplied to their blood plasma the elements 
 in which it is deficient. 
 
 5. The Hanmer Plain Springs at Amuri, in the Canter- 
 bury district of the Middle Island, are alkaline, having 
 temperatures ranging from 90 to 104, with a strong 
 escape of sulphuretted hydrogen. They are suitable 
 baths for cases of rheumatism and diseases of the skin. 
 Being the only hot springs in the Middle Island, they 
 deserve the special attention of those sufferers in the 
 south of New Zealand to whom the journey to the Hot 
 Lakes of the North Island would be too painful or too 
 costly. 
 
 The established spas of New Zealand, where proper 
 hotel and bathing accommodation is provided for 
 visitors, consist of three, which I will now describe in 
 some detail : Waiwera, Te Aroha, and Eotorua. 
 
 1. Waiwera. This charming health resort, situated 
 twenty-six miles north of Auckland, on the east coast, 
 opposite the Kawau Island, consists of a large hotel built 
 by Mr. Eobert Graham about twenty years since at the 
 mouth of the Waiwera river, and of an ever-flowing 
 hot alkaline spring known to the natives from the
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 79 
 
 earliest times. Mr. Graham laid out the estate on 
 which the hotel is built with a taste, liberality of 
 expenditure, and foresight always characteristic of him. 
 All visitors from abroad are delighted with the scenery, 
 the baths, the various recreations, and the table d'hote 
 at Waiwera. To visit Auckland and leave it without 
 seeing Waiwera, as many travellers do, is as great an 
 omission as to visit Naples without seeing Capri, or 
 Lisbon without spending a day at Cintra. A steamer 
 leaves Auckland twice a week for Waiwera (four hours), 
 and three times a week a coach leaves Devonport on 
 the North Shore for the same place, doing the trip in 
 about six hours. Until the jetty is built at Waiwera 
 an invalid should go there by coach, but all who can 
 endure a little inconvenience in the primitive mode of 
 disembarkation should go by steamer. For the ex- 
 quisite view of the little bay of Waiwera as the 
 steamer Rose Casey rounds the last promontory and 
 approaches the shore cannot be surpassed, particularly 
 at sunset, for beautiful colouring, charm of contour, 
 and rich foliage. The visitors receive on landing a 
 cordial welcome from Miss Graham, the buxom hostess, 
 who has the Queen's faculty of never forgetting the 
 faces of those she has once met. A stranger is made 
 to feel quickly at home, and I can say from experience 
 that there is no resort anywhere near Auckland so 
 refreshing and so restful to the jaded nerves of the 
 overwrought merchant or professional man as this 
 popular sanitorium. Boating, fishing, sea bathing, 
 fern and flower gathering, picnics up the river, rides, 
 walks, and lawn tennis, besides the amusement of 
 bathing several times a day in the springs, enable a 
 week or two to be passed most agreeably at Waiwera. 
 In summer the richly stocked gardens yield the largest 
 and longest supplies of strawberries that are supplied to 
 any hotel in the colony. The curious plants, trees, and 
 shrubs naturalized there by Mr. Graham are evidences 
 of the mildness of the climate and richness of the soil. 
 Every evening some social entertainment is promoted 
 by Miss Graham, so that even in wet weather one can
 
 80 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 amuse oneself at Waiwera. Of all the visitors whom I 
 met on my frequent visits there, the Australians were 
 the most enthusiastic in their praises of this lovely 
 spot, probably because they lack any such cool summer 
 resort in their own country, for even the delicious air 
 of the Blue Mountains, near Sydney, and the Alpine 
 atmosphere of Mount Macedon in Victoria, are per- 
 meated all day by the rays of a burning sun, which 
 compel invalids to keep indoors during the noonday 
 hours. But at Waiwera, fanned by the never-failing sea 
 breezes, the most delicate visitor on the hottest day in 
 summer may sit in comfort under the trees on the 
 hillside, or in one of the numerous arbours which line 
 the long walk to the baths in perfectly " cool, trans- 
 lucent shade." So inspiring are the lovely scenes 
 around Waiwera that even prosaic people rush into 
 rhyme people who never committed poetry before ! 
 Need I say that this is the favourite place for newly 
 married Aucklanders to spend their honeymoon ? Yet, 
 though " far from the busy hum of men," the telegraph 
 and the daily mail keep Waiwera in touch of the 
 outside world. Though the summer is considered the 
 season, Waiwera affords a mild and well-sheltered 
 winter residence. 
 
 I must now describe the mineral waters. The 
 temperature of the spring as it issues from the 
 sand near high- water mark is 110, and that of the 
 enclosed swimming bath is generally 100. At the 
 end of a fagging day in town or of a very active day 
 at Waiwera, a swim in this bath is a most luxurious 
 sensation. In rheumatism, bronchitis, and bronchial 
 catarrh these baths are useful, aided by the soothing 
 effect of the sea air and the sheltered warmth of the 
 place. Used as a drinking spring the Waiwera water 
 is not disagreeable, resembling diluted Wiesbaden 
 water. Being a light saline aperient and excitant 
 of the kidneys, it may be used as a preventive of 
 calculus, and to relieve acidity of the stomach. The 
 principal mineral salts, in grains per gallon, are as 
 follows : Chloride of sodium 116, bi-carbonate of soda
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 81 
 
 87, carbonate of lime 10, silica 2, bi-carbonates of mag- 
 nesia 95, and of iron 68, sulphate of soda 383. 
 The water also contains small amounts of free carbonic 
 acid and sulphuretted hydrogen gases. On the whole 
 the waters are less energetic than those of Te Aroha. 
 But even if the spring were to cease flowing the 
 manifold attractions of Waiwera would be but im- 
 perceptibly diminished. 
 
 2. Te Aroha, 126 miles south-east from Auckland, and 
 now the terminus of a railway which strikes off from the 
 main Waikato line at Frankton junction, is rising into 
 importance as a thermal resort. Nestling at the side of 
 a spur from the great Te Aroha mountain (3000 feet), 
 one of the highest of the Upper Thames range, and 
 having the river Waihou meandering at its foot, Te 
 Aroha presents some of the picturesque features of a 
 Swiss Alpine town. There are two routes from Auck- 
 land, one by steamer to Grahamstown, Thames river, 
 eight hours ; thence by coach the following day to Te 
 Aroha, six hours ; the other by rail in eight hours. 
 Approaching Te Aroha by rail from the town of 
 Morrinsville, and crossing the plains so well drained 
 and cultivated by the Patetere Land Company, the scene 
 reminded me of the view of Santa Barbara, California, 
 as it lies at the base of the Coast Eange. Te Aroha has 
 now a resident population, inclusive of the mining 
 township, three miles south, of 1000. Hundreds of 
 visitors in the summer season (November to March) 
 find capital accommodation, suited to slender as well 
 as large means, in the four hotels and three board- 
 ing houses of the town. There are three places of wor- 
 ship (all such are called " churches " in the colonies) ; 
 a Public Hall, Free Library, boating establishment, the 
 usual postal, telegraph, and banking offices ; and, now, 
 well-fitted bathing arrangements. Horses for riding and 
 driving are good, moderate in hire, and abundant. A 
 favourite excursion, to the lovely glen of Waiorongomai, 
 where the exquisite ferns, tree-ferns, creepers, forest 
 trees, and the waterfalls are a never-failing joy to the 
 visitor, and are not spoiled by the working of the mines 
 
 G
 
 82 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 above the hills. Another trip, very enjoyable to the 
 active man or woman with sound lungs, is up to the 
 summit of the Te Aroha mountain, by an easy track, 
 whence a grand panorama, extending for 100 miles in 
 every direction, is obtained. Besides all the islands in 
 the Bay of Plenty (see map), including White Island, 
 the Sulphur Volcano, one can see on a clear day the 
 giant volcanoes Mount Euapehu, and Mount Tongariro, 
 described in chapter vii. To those unable to make 
 the complete ascent, a lower spur of the mountain, 
 called " Bald Hill," affords a plateau whence the 
 invalid may enjoy both a bracing air and a pleasing 
 view. As a change from Waiwera, Te Aroha, while more 
 bracing, is still calmative and tranquillizing to highly 
 nervous persons. 
 
 Eighteen springs, of which fifteen are hot, issue from 
 the hillside overshadowing the town. All except two, 
 Nos. 16 and 17 in the official list, published in Dr. 
 Alfred Wright's " Medical Guide to Te Aroha," are 
 alkaline, being heavily charged with bi-carbonate of 
 soda ; and all the eighteen contain free carbonic acid gas 
 in large quantities. Sir James Hector compares these 
 springs to the waters of Vichy (France), Bilin (Bohemia), 
 and Ems (Nassau). 
 
 The analyses of the three principal springs, the 
 temperatures of which, at their sources, range from 
 105 to 119 F., are given by Mr. J. A. Pond (1885), 
 Colonial Analyst for Auckland district, as follows, 
 expressed in grains per gallon. 
 
 
 No. L 
 Bath. 
 
 No. II. 
 Ba'h. 
 
 Cold 
 Drinking 
 Spring. 
 
 
 Bi-carbonate of soda 
 
 72S-73 
 
 698-513 
 
 682-123 
 
 
 Carbonate of ammonia 
 
 3-55 
 
 112 
 
 980 
 
 
 Carbonate of iron 
 
 04 
 
 063 
 
 042 
 
 In addition to these con- 
 
 Chloride of sodium 
 Phosphate of soda 
 
 73-514 
 2-063 
 
 72-072 
 2 203 
 
 77-748 
 1-696 
 
 stituents, there were " heavy 
 
 Phosphate of alumina 
 
 143 
 
 023 
 
 476 
 
 traces " of carbonate of lithia, 
 
 Sulphate of soda. 
 ,, potash 
 
 27-546 
 10-293 
 
 28 Oj6 
 9-800 
 
 25-438 
 10-794 
 
 and of sulphuretted hydrogen. 
 
 ,, lime. 
 
 2-989 
 
 2.228 
 
 2-989 
 
 " The free carbonic acid gas 
 
 magnesia 
 
 378 
 8'568 
 
 336 
 8-778 
 
 602 
 8-778 
 
 was not estimated." 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total solid matter. 
 
 857-814 
 
 822-184 
 
 801-702 

 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 83 
 
 A later analysis, given by Sir James Hector on the 
 4th of January, 1887, which is too long and elaborate to 
 quote here, exhibits a decrease in the amount of mineral 
 constituents, but no decrease in the gases nor in the 
 temperatures, thus illustrating the truth of the remark 
 made (p. 75) upon the variations of thermal springs. 
 
 Since 1884, an area of twenty acres, including all the 
 eighteen springs, has been enclosed, and laid out as a 
 garden, with walks, trees, lawns, seats, and bath-houses, 
 (public and private), by the newly constituted Domain 
 Board, but at the expense of the Government. The 
 rapidly increasing popularity of the baths is shown by 
 the fact that during 1886 thirty thousand bath tickets 
 were issued. The baths have cured many cases of 
 rheumatism, sciatica, lumbago, paralysis of a rheumatic 
 or syphilitic nature, eczema, insomnia, Bright's disease, 
 amenorrhcea, ophthalmia tarsi, and rheumatic- gouty 
 contraction of the joints. Certain cases of asthma and 
 chronic bronchitis have been benefitted by those baths 
 that are richest in the evolution of sulphuretted 
 hydrogen. Still further clinical experience of these 
 springs will doubtless bring more diseases under their 
 control. The cold drinking spring (No. 3) is excellent 
 as a diuretic for gouty and obese persons with inactive 
 livers. In healthy persons, as I found experimentally, 
 it produces a vigorous action of the kidneys, and 
 slight diarrhoea. This spring is so much in demand as 
 a natural soda-water that a company has been formed 
 to buy the right of bottling it at its source, and it is 
 now largely used in the colony. 
 
 3. Eotorua. A thoroughly inland alpine resort, at 
 an-elevation of a thousand feet above sea level, forms a 
 striking contrast to seaside places like Waiwera, and to 
 the inland health resorts such as Te Aroha, which is 
 only 130 feet above the sea. Rotorua is the highest 
 place in New Zealand possessing thermal springs, and 
 can boast of. the most powerful hot sulphur baths in the 
 southern hemisphere. Lake Rotorua (see map 3), 
 situated on a mountainous plateau about forty miles 
 from the Bay of Plenty, is the largest lake but one 
 
 G 2
 
 84 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 (Taupo) in the North Island, being six miles across, 
 and about twenty miles in circumference. The lake is 
 shallow, having an average depth of between twenty 
 and thirty feet, and is considered by Dr. Hochstetter 
 to have been formed by the subsidence of part of the 
 ground forming the plateau, not to have been a 
 volcanic crater. A conical hill 400 feet high, in the 
 centre of the lake, forms the island called Mokoia. Of 
 the mountains encircling the lake, Mount Ngongotaha 
 (see chapter iii. for the pronunciation) towers up to a 
 height of 2554 feet. I am thus particular in giving 
 the elevation of this the highest mountain in the neigh- 
 bourhood because the whole Eotorua district is liable to 
 changes by upheaval and subsidence. Earthquakes are 
 frequent ; and new hot springs gush out from the ground 
 now and then, making great holes, and altering the 
 water level in the lake, the height of which above the 
 sea is usually 961 feet. The Government of New 
 Zealand, following the wise example of the United 
 States, have preserved the Eotorua district from land 
 speculators by a special Act of Parliament, entitled 
 "The Thermal Springs District Act, 1881." By this 
 Act a large area of the Hot Lake country, containing all 
 the important springs, is reserved for the Government 
 to deal with. The Eotorua township of 600 acres was 
 laid out on the southern shore of Eotorua close by the 
 ancient Maori village of Ohinemutu, in square blocks. 
 After making liberal provision for the hospital, bath- 
 pavilion, church, school, cemetery, post-office, &c., all 
 the allotments were put up to auction for lease of 
 ninety-nine years for the Crown. All the " mineral 
 waters, hot springs, and streams" are by this Act 
 " vested in the Crown." The allotments were promptly 
 bought up, and the town of Eotorua has steadily grown 
 ever since, in spite of financial depression, and the 
 large falling-off of visitors since the destruction of the 
 terraces of Eotomahana in 1886. The real and perma- 
 nent merit of the hot sulphur springs will always keep 
 Eotorua going. There are already three excellent hotels 
 and two or three boarding houses. An able medical
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 85 
 
 man has been appointed as resident officer of the 
 " Sanatorium," as the hospital and bath-pavilion to- 
 gether are termed. A pure supply of drinking water is 
 obtained from the Puarenga stream. 
 
 The new town of Eotorua is reached by two routes 
 from Auckland. The most direct route is by rail to 
 Oxford, 133 miles ; next morning by coach from Oxford 
 to Rotorua, thirty-four miles. In less than two years 
 the railway will be continued right through to Rotorua. 
 The other route is by sea from Auckland to Tauranga 
 on the Bay of Plenty, 135 miles, and thence by coach 
 early next morning via the Gorge Road, through a 
 magnificent forest, for eighteen miles, and open country 
 for twenty-four miles, to the township. Visitors from 
 Wellington and the south generally take rail or steamer 
 to Napier, whence they take coach to Taupo, ninety-six 
 miles, spending one night on the way ; from Taupo 
 they proceed to Rotorua, fifty-six miles, arriving on the 
 evening of the third day. This is a romantic and varied 
 journey, but only healthy and robust persons should take 
 this route. The present arrangements of the journey 
 via Oxford make it as easy for invalids as the nature of 
 the country traversed can admit of. 
 
 In this chapter I shall confine myself to the mineral 
 springs and the climate, reserving for chapter vi. the 
 description of the Geysers, Terraces, and other won- 
 ders as I saw them before the eruption of Tarawera. The 
 information given in the " Medical Guide to Rotorua," 
 by T. Hope Lewis, Esq., M.R.C.S., the first resident 
 medical superintendent, and in the pamphlet by his 
 successor, Dr. A. Ginders, supplemented by my own per- 
 sonal knowledge, and the accounts of numerous patients 
 " at first hand," has enabled me to set before my readers 
 the first succinct, complete, and systematized account of 
 these famous sulphur springs that has yet appeared. 
 The medical profession throughout Australasia hope that 
 each resident medical officer will keep careful records 
 of all cases under thermal treatment, so as toprecisionize, 
 as years roll on, our knowledge of the specific qualities 
 of each spring. Invalids " of weak chest " that is, those
 
 86 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 suffering from consumption, phthisical pneumonia, or 
 pleurisy patients, in a word, who ought never to take 
 a hot mineral bath should not visit Eotorua, even in 
 " the season " from October till April. For they will 
 not be able to breathe such rarefied air as one has at 
 Davos or St. Moritz, the elevation not being great 
 enough, and the summer weather being showery and 
 stormy. From May till September, comprising 
 " autumn " and winter, the rain keeps delicate people 
 indoors, except during an " Indian summer " of about 
 four weeks usually, when the clear sunny days and fine 
 frosty nights form agreeable weather. On these nights 
 the sight of the Southern Cross, the Argonaut, and the 
 other southern constellations, and occasionally, though 
 rarely, the Aurora Australis, is a grand spectacle. The 
 elevation of the plateau is sufficiently great to relieve 
 cases of pure asthma, bronchitic asthma, and a few cases 
 of bronchitis contracted in smoky cities or at seaports. 
 At Rotorua a south-west wind in the morning, and a 
 north-east breeze in the afternoon (just what the tourist 
 desires for a sail to Mokoia and back) indicate settled 
 weather. Sometimes a north-easter blows for three 
 days, with squalls of rain, but is followed by the south- 
 west wind, with its characteristically clear sunshiny 
 weather. It would be correct to say that, all over the 
 North Island, a south wind brings with it clear weather 
 and sensation of reinvigoration ; and the same is true 
 of that part of Climatic Zone No. II. which lies in the 
 Middle Island. 
 
 There are in Eotorua township and its outlying settle- 
 ments of Whakarewarewa, Te Koutu, Arikikapakapa, 
 and Tikitere, examples of four out of the five classes 
 into which New Zealand waters are divided (p. 76). I 
 shall give the full analyses of the eight most important 
 springs out of twenty that have been made by 
 Mr. F. C. Skey, partly on the spot (this is important) 
 and partly in Wellington. In the estimation of the 
 volume of gases contained in the springs at their source, 
 it is necessary to analyze them, at least roughly, near 
 their sources. A careful though brief description, with-
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 87 
 
 out analysis, of nine less important springs is added, 
 and their special qualities in the treatment of disease. 
 For still more precise directions to the invalids than 
 I here give, readers are referred to the two useful 
 works, by Drs. T. H. Lewis and Ginders, mentioned 
 above, p. 75. The numbering of the springs described 
 is that of Dr. Lewis's book, and not that of Sir James 
 Hector's " Handbook of New Zealand " (Edinburgh, 
 1886). 
 
 In Rotorua Township. 
 
 1. The Priest's Bath (Class V., Acidic) so called from 
 Father Mahony, of Tauranga, a Eoman Catholic priest, 
 who was the first white man to discover and be cured 
 by its healing virtues. Its native name is Te Pupuni- 
 tanga. It is aluminous and strongly acid. Temperature 
 98 to 106, averaging 99 in the swimming bath. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF THE PRIEST'S BATH. 
 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Sulphate of soda . . 19 '24 
 
 alumina . . 21 '67 
 
 lime . . 7 '41 Traces of sulphate of 
 
 magnesia . 3 '03 potash were observed. 
 
 iron . . 1'24 
 
 Sulphuric acid . . . 22 '12 
 
 Hydrochloric acid . . 3 65 
 
 Silica 18-41 
 
 Total solids . 96 ' 77 grains per gallon. 
 Sulphuretted hydrogen . 2 '98 
 
 Carbonic acid gas . . 2 16 
 
 The first visible effect of a swim in this bath is a 
 reddening of the skin, which, in sensitive persons, is 
 followed by itching. Next ensues a stimulation of the 
 liver, as shown by the flow of the bile, making an 
 improvement in the excreta in patients suffering from 
 sluggish liver and chronic jaundice. No very plethoric 
 person, nor one suffering from organic disease of the 
 heart or of the great arteries (such as aneurism), should 
 bathe in this spring. The following complaints and 
 diseases have been successfully treated by the Priest's 
 Bath: gout, dyspepsia, sciatica, chronic rheumatism,
 
 88 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 eczema (as a change from the baths), parasitic skin 
 diseases, such as scabies and chloasma, obesity, inactive 
 liver, abdominal congestion (piles, &c.), cold feet, anremia, 
 chlorosis, and sexual impotence. As a rule the patient 
 is cured by a course of thirty-six baths taken during a 
 period of three weeks, intervals to be prescribed by the 
 medical superintendent. In cases of obesity combined 
 with piles, the course should begin with the Priest's 
 Bath for three days, followed by three days of some 
 alkaline bath ; then two days' rest, again the Priest's 
 Bath for three days, and so on, for a period of four to 
 six weeks, by the end of which the patient is completely 
 restored to health. 
 
 In some of its effects this spring resembles those of 
 Eaux Bonnes and of Eaux Chaudes in the Basses 
 Pyrenees. But the Priest's Bath excels these famous 
 springs by the superior heat of its source, and by its 
 richness in mineral constituents, containing three times 
 the amount of those in Eaux Bonnes, and five times the 
 quantity of those in Eaux Chaudes. 
 
 2. Madame Eachel's Spring, or Whangapipiro, 
 (Class III., Alkaline-silicious). Temperature 174 E. 
 at its source. Reaction alkaline. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF MADAME EACHEL'S BATH. 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Chloride of sodium 
 potassium . 
 lithium, traces 
 Sulphate of soda . 
 Silicate of soda 
 lime 
 magnesia . 
 Iron and alumina oxides 
 Silica . 
 
 Carbonic acid gas . 
 
 69-43 
 3-41 
 
 11-80 
 18-21 
 4-24 
 1-09 
 2-41 
 5-87 
 
 116-46 
 3-79 
 
 The exquisite softness of this water and the charac- 
 teristic power which all the alkaline-silicious waters 
 of Ilotorua possess of imparting a ^loss to the skin have
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 89 
 
 led to its fanciful name. A swim in this bath gives the 
 most luxurious sensation to the bather, and certainly 
 improves the complexion, by some unexplained solvent 
 action upon the epidermis. In gout, psoriasis, and 
 ecthyma, and in the carbunculous tendency, this bath 
 is most useful. Internally the water is drunk in cases 
 of rheumatism, gout, and dyspepsia, with the beneficial 
 effect of increasing the elimination of urea and uric 
 acid. Silica and the silicates in combination probably 
 exercise a similar action to that of lithia, an ingredient 
 which gives Eoyat Spa in Auvergne the value it 
 possesses in curing gout. The Maoris have for many 
 years known the virtues of silicious mud used as a 
 dressing in chronic and indolent ulcers. 
 
 3. The Blue Bath, or Chamseleon Spring Oruawhata 
 (Class I., Saline), resembles " Madame Rachel," but is 
 more saline than silicious, and is used in rheumatic 
 cases as a change from other springs. Its temperature 
 is 140. The Government have constructed a capital 
 swimming bath of concrete, 62 by 23 feet, with dressing- 
 rooms on three sides ; the tank holding 32,000 gallons 
 of the water. A peculiar feature here is the natural 
 sulphurous vapour bath, supplied by the gas issuing 
 from a cavity broken into during the excavations. The 
 composition of the gas is (2 HS + S0 2 ). Both these 
 springs have the property of encrusting with silica 
 articles immersed in the water for a few weeks. Ferns, 
 branches of trees, feathers, and birds' nests form beautiful 
 specimens of incrustation. The water of Oruawhata 
 cooled to 130 is an admirable means of destroying 
 slugs, snails, and other enemies of plant life. 
 
 4. The Laughing Gas or Cameron's Bath Kau- 
 whanga (a). 
 
 5. The Pain Killer Kauwhanga (6). 
 
 6. The Coffee Pot Kauwhanga (c). 
 
 These three springs are of similar constitution, and 
 belong to Class IV., ' Hepatic ' or sulphurous waters. 
 Each spring evolves a large amount of mixed gases, 
 chiefly sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid. The 
 effect of the gas arising from the surface of No. 4 bath
 
 90 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 is so exciting and exhilarating as to give it the name it 
 bears. The temperature is 108. Bathing in the spring 
 itself is to be avoided, as fainting has been often caused 
 by the gases breathed. 
 
 The Pain Killer is safer and more useful than No. 4. 
 It is one of the most valuable hepatic springs in 
 Eotorua. It is fed by an intermittent geyser, which 
 spouts up at a temperature of 214, and is cooled down 
 by being led into a hole in the ground near the lake- 
 margin. In this hole there is a large quantity of silicious 
 mud, which is impregnated with the mineral constitu- 
 ents of the geyser. The name of this bath is given it 
 from its success in relieving gouty and rheumatic joints. 
 It forms the best alternative with the Priest's Bath for 
 cases of chronic gout. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF THE PAIN-KILLER. 
 
 (In grains par gallon.) 
 Chloride of sodium 46 42 
 
 potassium . 
 calcium 
 magnesium . 
 iron and aluminium 
 
 Sulphate of soda . 
 Hydrochloric acid. 
 Silica . 
 
 1-71 
 2-66 
 1-47 
 4-22 
 
 29-14 
 6-84 
 
 18-02 
 
 110-48 
 
 Sulphuretted hydrogen . . . . 4 '84 
 
 7. Stonewall Jackson or McHugh's Bath Hinemaru 
 (Class III., Alkaline-siliceous), has a temperature of 
 from 98 to 118 F. It is saline with silicates and has 
 an alkaline reaction. As a bath it is efficient in 
 removing skin diseases such as eczema, and as a 
 drinking spring, when filtered, it is beneficial in cases of 
 atonic dyspepsia, and in the uric acid diathesis. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF STONEWALL JACKSON. 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Chloride of sodium .... 93'46 
 
 potassium . . . . 4*69 
 lithium, traces 
 
 Sulphate of soda 2 '76
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 91 
 
 Mono-silicate of sula 
 Silicate of lime 
 
 magnesia 
 Iron and aluminium oxides 
 Silica . 
 
 In Ohinemutu. 
 
 6-41 
 2-89 
 1-02 
 2-10 
 8-29 
 
 121-62 
 
 Nos. 8 and 9. The Lake House Hotel Baths. These 
 two baths, of which (a) is clear and (6) is muddy, are 
 called by the natives Waihunuhunukuri, the meaning 
 of which is " water for scalding a dog." They belong 
 to Class V., Acidic Waters, and have properties some- 
 what similar to those of the Priest's Bath. As the 
 muddy Waihunuhunukuri is ferruginous with excess of 
 silica and without alum, and as it has proved especially 
 useful in anaemia and chlorosis, I here give the chemical 
 analysis. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF LAKE HOUSE MUDDY BATH. 
 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 Sulphate of soda . 22 -44 
 
 potash 
 lime . 
 magnesia 
 iron . 
 Sulphuric acid 
 Hydrochloric acid 
 Silica . 
 
 0-62 
 9*81 
 
 1-82 
 12-66 
 18-49 
 
 7' 66 
 18-06 
 
 91-56 
 
 The existence of so large a quantity of sulphate of 
 iron and of the mineral acids necessitate the very 
 careful and sparing use of this water when taken 
 internally. 
 
 Nos. 10 and 11 Waikite (a) and (fe), belonging 
 to Class II., Alkaline, resemble in a general way 
 Madame Rachel, being feebly saline, with silicates, and 
 their reaction being alkaline when cool. The former 
 is the bath reserved for Mrs. Morrison's hotel and the 
 latter, known as Scott's bath, is in use at Kelly's hotel. 
 These baths are useful for the same diseases in which 
 Madame Rachel's bath is beneficial.
 
 92 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 No. 12, Te Tapui, in the Te Koutu settlement, is an 
 alkaline, highly silicated hot spring, usually 90 to 
 100 F. in temperature, but rising to 180 when the wind 
 is north or east. It is beneficial in psoriasis. 
 
 In Whakarewarewa. 
 
 No. 13. The Spout Bath Turikore (Class II. Alka- 
 line), is a warm waterfall, a natural and powerful douche, 
 which is admirable in muscular rheumatism, lumbar 
 myalgia, and local palsy. There being no hotel, Maoris 
 hire out their whares to invalids and engage themselves 
 as nurses for those who need them. After using the 
 hot douche of the waterfall one can swim in the warm 
 pool below, and then finish up by a swim in the cold 
 stream "Puarenga," into which the Turikore spring 
 pours itself. But as active exercise in hot water is apt 
 to make even a robust man feel faint, no invalid or 
 tourist should attempt this programme without having 
 a friend or attendant near him. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF THE SPOUT BATH. 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Silicate of soda . 16 '32 
 
 lime . 1'61 
 
 magnesia 1'14 
 
 iron . 0'39 
 
 Sulphate of soda . 13 '47 
 
 Chloride of potassium 1 ' 24. 
 
 sodium 53 '61 
 
 Phosphate of alumina, traces 
 
 87-78 
 
 No. 14. The Oil Bath Korotiotio (Class II., Alkaline), 
 is so strongly alkaline as to have a slightly caustic 
 effect on the skin. Hence its name from the peculiar 
 smooth, soapy feeling it gives to a sensitive skin. The 
 Maoris use it in washing clothes. Of course in any 
 case their washing bill would not be very extensive ! 
 Bathing in this spring is very sedative to the nerves. 
 The geyser which feeds Korotiotio, having a tempera-
 
 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 93 
 
 ture of 214 F., has formed a curious mound of silicious 
 rock, which is covered with beautiful sulphur crystals. 
 It is particularly well adapted for treating skin diseases 
 accompanied with nervous irritation. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF THE OIL BATH. 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Mono-silicate of soda . 
 
 lime 
 
 magnesia 
 
 iron 
 
 Sulphate ot soda . 
 Chloride of potassium . 
 
 sodium 
 Silica, free . 
 Chloride of lithium 
 alumina traces 
 
 and phosphate of 
 
 2-08 
 
 3-16 
 
 0-76 
 
 0-85 
 
 7-49 
 
 1-46 
 
 66-84 
 
 22-40 
 
 104-54 
 
 At Tikitere. 
 
 Nos. 18 and 19. The hot waterfall called " Te Mimi 
 o te Kakahi," having a temperature of 90 to 112, and 
 the Great Spring "Te Kute" are powerful hepatic 
 waters belonging to Class IV. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF TE KUTE. 
 (In grains per gallon.) 
 
 Sulphate of soda 12 '66 
 
 alumina . . . . 11 '22 
 
 potash . . . . 0'59 
 
 lime 1-01 
 
 magnesia . . . . 0'69 
 
 iron 1-73 
 
 Phosphoric acid traces 
 
 Sulphuric acid, free . . . . 0-77 
 
 Hydrochloric acid, free . . . . 1-63 
 
 Sulphuretted hydiogen . . . . 5 '74 
 
 Silica 12-40 
 
 48-44 
 
 In appearance Te Kute is a large furiously boiling 
 pool, dull brown in colour, strongly odorous of sulphu- 
 retted hydrogen, from which dense volumes of steam
 
 94 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 arise. The water is conducted by a small channel into 
 a very primitive bath situated inside a small native 
 whare of raupo, and is there reduced to a temperature 
 which is safe and pleasant. Many remarkable cures of 
 chronic muscular and articular rheumatism of many 
 years' standing have been effected by this bath. Some 
 parasitic diseases of the skin have been cured here in a 
 short time. Dr. Ginders tells us of two cases of cure 
 by this bath which it is desirable to note. First, a man 
 from Tauranga, who had been reduced to a state of 
 extreme prostration by a severe cervico-brachial neu- 
 ralgia, which had for many months resisted all kinds of 
 treatment, was cured here in a fortnight. Second, a man 
 aged thirty-two, who had suffered for more than a year 
 from paraplegia involving the .bladder (of syphilitic 
 origin), was cured completely in fourteen days by 
 spending three hours a day in the bath. 
 
 The scenery of Tikitere, which is on the shores of the 
 lake, twelve miles from Rotorua, is gloomy in the 
 extreme; it is compared by most writers to Dante's 
 Inferno. It is this characteristic, and the lack of all 
 comfortable accommodation that keep the greater 
 number of rheumatic sufferers away. But the tourist 
 should visit Tikitere for its curious sights, sounds, and 
 odours ; and, as a relief to his eye, afterwards explore 
 the lovely Lake Eotokawau, on the plateau close by. 
 
 To sum up, then, the diseases that experience has 
 taught us thus far to have been unmistakably benefitted 
 or cured by the thermal treatment at Eotorua are the 
 following, though I cannot undertake to say that the list 
 is a complete one : chronic rheumatism, muscular 
 and articular ; rheumatic gout or rheumatoid arthritis ; 
 sciatica ; lumbar myalgia ; various neuralgise ; dyspep- 
 sia; obesity and piles; all the scaly, vesicular, and 
 parasitic diseases of the skin ; some cases of chronic 
 sore throat; amenorrhcea, dysmenorrhcea, anaemia, 
 ovaritis, and sterility in women. As our exact know- 
 ledge of these potent springs increases I have no doubt 
 that many other derangements of health will in time 
 be brought into their curative sphere. I even conceive
 
 TEE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 95 
 
 it probable, from what I have seen of its early manifes- 
 tations in Hawaii and in Norway (Trondhjem) that 
 the most loathsome of all chronic diseases, LEPKOSY, 
 might be arrested in its fatal course by the strongest of 
 the acidic baths. 
 
 A word or two may be addressed to my confreres in 
 New Zealand or Australia as to the kinds of cases that 
 should not be sent to Eotorua. Patients suffering from 
 consumption (second or third stages); from chronic 
 Bright' s disease; from spinal caries ; from myelitis; from 
 cerebral softening ; and from organic heart disease, espe- 
 cially mitral obstruction, should never be sent there by 
 their medical attendants. A few useful specific direc- 
 tions to invalids concerning the use of the baths may 
 now be given, but not to interfere in the slightest 
 degree with the more minute instruction that they are 
 sure to get from the skilled balneologists at Eotorua and 
 Te Aroha who conduct the courses of treatment. 
 
 1st. For chronic rheumatism a course of from two to 
 three months is usually sufficient to cure. Take two 
 or three baths daily, beginning with the Priest's Bath. 
 Once take a swim in the Blue Bath, and drink a 
 tumblerful of Madame Eachel's Spring after each dip. 
 After three weeks of the foregoing, resort to Whakare- 
 warewa or Tikitere for the douches. 
 
 2nd. Gout is admirably treated by the Eotorua 
 Baths. Every day bathe twice in the Priest's Bath, 
 and follow each bath by a pail douche of water 10 
 lower than that of the bath. After two weeks or so 
 use the Pain Killer Spring. For cases of gout, where 
 there is a marked tendency to complication of internal 
 organs, such as the heart, brain, stomach, or lungs, the 
 thermal treatment is not suitable. 
 
 3rd. If acute attacks of either rheumatism or gout 
 occur during the course the baths must be at once 
 suspended until they are quite gone. 
 
 4th. For very obstinate cases of psoriasis or lepra a 
 course of four and a half months' treatment is required, 
 taking the following baths in succession: Turikore, 
 Korotiotio, Te Tapui te Koutu, Hinernaru, and Whanga-
 
 96 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 pipiro.- In the middle of this course a break-off of a 
 fortnight is often an advantage, the waters acting with 
 greater vigour upon a renewal of the systematic bath- 
 ing. It is often found in cases of chronic sciatica that 
 though the pain has not completely left the patient at 
 the conclusion of his prescribed course of baths, it leaves 
 off entirely and permanently within a month after he 
 reaches home. If an invalid's malady is not cured by 
 the end of the month of April, and he finds himself 
 overtaken at Eotorua by the winter rains, it is best for 
 him to leave for Auckland, Tauranga, or Napier, where 
 he may spend the winter in sheltered quarters and 
 enjoy both town society and varied amusements. 
 
 Dr. Lewis lays it down as an absolute rule that 
 patients undergoing systematic thermal treatment 
 must abstain from alcohol. Eegular exercise must be 
 taken daily, but never to the extent of fatigue ; and the 
 clothing must be carefully adjusted to the state of the 
 weather. Dr. Ginders so pithily expresses one of the 
 difficulties of the medical superintendent in turning 
 out " neat cures " that I take the liberty of quoting it 
 from his pamphlet. " Our visitors to Eotorua may be 
 divided into three classes : the tourist, the invalid 
 tourist, and the invalid. "With the invalid we know 
 what we have to do ; with the tourist we have nothing 
 to do ; but the invalid tourist is a decidedly unsatisfac- 
 tory person. He expects to be able to exhaust his 
 energies to any extent in sight-seeing, and yet to be 
 cured of his ailment by taking a bath here and a bath 
 there, as it happens to suit his convenience. He is 
 generally disappointed, of course, and goes away to tell 
 the world that the Hot Lake district of New Zealand 
 is a much over-rated place. ' I have trjed it, sir, and 
 I came away rather worse than better.' No doubt of it. 
 My medical brethren should advise the invalid tourist 
 to attend to business first and to take his pleasure 
 afterwards."
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND: EXCURSIONS TO 
 THE HOT LAKES AND TO THE WEST COAST SOUNDS. 
 
 Excursions to Rotorua, via, Tauranga in the summer of 1880-1 
 Tauranga Oropi Gorge Eoad Beauty of the forest 
 Ohiaeiiiutu Loafing natives Baths al fresco Wairoa Tiki- 
 tapu bush Lake Tarawera White Terrace Geysers and 
 mud fumaroles Pink Terrace Luxurious bathing lleturn 
 down the swift hot creek of the Kaiwaka Fate of the extor- 
 
 .. donate Tuhourangi Maoris Scenic attractions of the Middle 
 Island Lakes, mountains, glaciers, fjords Lakes Wakatipu, Te 
 Anau and Manapouri West Coast Sounds, thirteen in number 
 Annual excursion by Union Company's s.s. Tarawera, Captain 
 Sinclair My visit in January, 1884 Excellent arrangements 
 Port Chalmers Preservation Inlet Cuttle Cove Dusky 
 Sound and Mr. Doherty Spinach discovered by Cook in Dusky 
 Sound Vancouver Entertainment by crew Wet Jacket Arm 
 Hector's theory of the formation of these fjords Caswell Bay 
 marble Milford Sound: its Narrows, Upper Bay; Mitre Peak, 
 the glory of Milford Sound Bowen Falls Ascent of Mitre 
 Peak Sutherland Fall, 1900 feet Reischek and his dog 
 Return. 
 
 HAVING in the previous chapter confined my description 
 of the Hot Lake district to the mineral springs and 
 their distinctive characteristics, I now propose, by the 
 aid of my journal, to give my readers an idea of the 
 original appearance of what has been aptly called " The 
 Wonderland of New Zealand," namely, the White 
 Terraces of Rotomahana, and the Plutonic manifestations 
 in their neighbourhood now, alas ! no longer visible, 
 having been destroyed by the catastrophe of June 10th, 
 1886, chronicled in chapter vii. Just as the paintings 
 of the lamented Terraces are enhanced in value now 
 that they have ceased to exist, so I trust that a truthful 
 and unexaggerated account of them by an eye-witness 
 
 H
 
 98 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 may not be without interest or a certain historical value. 
 The reader will bear in mind that in 1880, when my 
 visit was made, there was no railway to Oxford ; the sea 
 route from Auckland via Tauranga was the only way of 
 reaching Rotorua ; the natives in that region were mostly 
 demoralized loafers ; and the Government had not yet 
 organized the township of Rotorua, the Sanatorium, 
 the tenure of land, &c., which have now so civilized 
 the Maoris, and improved the whole arrangements for 
 the tourist and invalid. 
 
 My friends Judge Maning (author of " Old New Zea- 
 land"), Mr. S. Jackson, sen., of Auckland, and Mr. Robert 
 Proude, of Razorback, Waikato, and I, started from Auck- 
 land in the steamer Waitdki on a fine summer evening, 
 December 20th, 1880, and reached Tauranga in time for 
 breakfast the next day, December 21st, the longest day 
 in those latitudes. In this sleepy little town, with its 
 very pretty surroundings, we rested for a day, and 
 engaged a coach and four horses, with relays provided, 
 for the eight or ten days of our excursion. The 
 expense amounted to only five shillings apiece per day, 
 and we had much comfort and enjoyment in not being 
 tied to particular routes, stages, or times. One of 
 Kelly's employes, a merry, lively fellow, drove us skil- 
 fully and amused us with local gossip. Starting, then, 
 early on the morning of the 22nd December, we ascended 
 to Oropi, ten miles from Tauranga, and 900 feet above 
 the sea, which was at that time the extreme limit of 
 cultivation in the direction of the Hot Lakes. " Oropi " 
 is the Maori name for Europe. The views of the 
 beautiful harbour of Tauranga, terminated seawards by 
 the extinct crater-hill of Mangonui, made this, the first 
 stage of our coach-journey, very interesting. Next we 
 plunged into the Gorge Road, made after the fashion of 
 a " corduroy road " in the United States, ti-tiQQ fascines, 
 tree-fern stems, and wooden stakes being laid across 
 the road on all the soft places. The bumps, thumps, 
 and dislocatory jolts to which the traveller has to submit 
 made this part of the journey "a terror." Since 1880 
 another road, via Te Puke, has been cut, having fewer
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 99 
 
 soft muddy places, so that there is less inconvenience. 
 We joked each other about the roughness of the way, and 
 the Judge especially chaffed me about the lomi-lomi of 
 the Sandwich Islanders which I had been describing down 
 in tranquil Tauranga. Eighteen miles of this became 
 rather wearisome, but I was enchanted with the beauty 
 of the rich and varied New Zealand " bush," as the forest 
 is always called in the colonies, and thus my attention 
 was diverted from the soreness of my bones ! I had 
 been lately in Australia, where the forest is monotonous-, 
 consisting principally of tree-ferns, blue-gum treesj 
 wattles (acacia), with few shrubs and no creepers. The 
 New Zealand trees are mostly evergreen; so are- the- 
 shrubs which picturesquely fill in the lower spaces 
 between the trunks ; and multitudinous graceful vines, 
 plants, creepers, and parasitic vegetation delight the 
 eye in luxuriant profusion. The " bush " in this colony 
 is intermediate in variety, density, and brilliancy 
 between those of Australia and the tropics. I should 
 not rank it as equal to those I saw on the Isthmus of 
 Panama or in Brazil. My friends, being all old settlers, 
 named the various trees for me the nikau palm, with its 
 edible pith, the cabbage tree, from which hats are made ; 
 the totara, rimu, rata, birch, maitai, lance wood, rewa- 
 rewa, potmtakawa all valuable building and furniture 
 woods and the karakct, pulca-puka, tupakihi, and many 
 other pretty shrubs. But no kauri was visible, for this, 
 the most valuable tree in the colony, does not grow 
 south of Mercury Bay. The only sounds in the forest 
 were the occasional clear note of the tui, the chatter of 
 the kaka, and the ory of the kalcapo, otherwise it struck 
 me that the woods were singularly silent. A river ran 
 along the gorge, but almost noiselessly, being contracted 
 to its summer dimensions. In the evening we emerged 
 on to the mountain plateau, at a point about fourteen 
 miles distant from Ohinemutu, and we soon sighted 
 Lake Eotorua and the clouds of steam from the geysers 
 at Sulphur Point. The mountains round the lake, and 
 the hilly island of Mokoia, diversified and filled in the 
 scene. On arriving at Ohinemutu we were greeted by 
 
 H 2
 
 100 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 the crowds of natives, men, women, and children, with 
 begging requests in a manner reminding one of Killarney, 
 only with more " cheek." -Finding the hotels very full, 
 we divided, two going to Lake House Hotel and two to 
 Morrison's, where we found the Maoris less noisy. It 
 appeared, on inquiry, that, owing to the great difficulty 
 of complying with the provisions of the Native Lands 
 Courts, in order to obtain the signatures of every male 
 member of a tribe or hapu (which is necessary for the 
 ownership of any plot of land held as communal pro- 
 perty), the man who builds or leases an hotel feels bound 
 to give free liquor and tobacco to the natives when they 
 demand it. If one refused, the court might turn him 
 out of his holding. Violent scenes used to take place. 
 In 1880 the Maori loafer of Ohinemutu was indeed a 
 low and degraded creature a baser and coloured 
 imitation of the low white man of whom there 
 were dozens living there. A bad state of things : 
 rather improved, however, when Mr. Froude visited 
 Rotorua, and still more mitigated now, since the 
 Thermal Springs Act of 1881 has been in working 
 operation, and since there has been a modification in 
 the Lands Courts' procedure. We, as visitors, were 
 inundated with these beggar-Maoris, many of whom 
 claimed the Judge as an old acquaintance. He was in 
 the old times a powerful rangatira, or chief, among the 
 natives, and we found him everywhere received with 
 acclamation. I believe that this was Judge Mailing's 
 first visit to the Hot Lakes. What we saw on this trip 
 interested him as much as myself a "new chum." 
 At Sulphur Point, where several hot springs are 
 situated, it was an amusing sight to see native men, 
 women, and children swimming about or standing up to 
 the neck in hot water for hours, while close by Maori 
 women were cooking their food in a spring (generally 
 fish which they had caught close by in the lake), and at 
 another spring other women were washing clothes. 
 The stranger at first wonders how the Maoris stand 
 both the heat and the acidity of the sulphur waters as 
 they do ; for I tested a rivulet that ran into their
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 101 
 
 bathing place and found that it blackened silver 
 intensely in ten seconds, and that it had a very acid 
 reaction. Testing eleven springs by my own thermo- 
 meter, I found the temperatures to range from 83 to 
 105 F. Our first excursion from Eotorua was to where 
 the mud geysers and other hot springs are situated. 
 The arrangements here for bathers are very primitive, 
 the Maoris hiring out their grass and fern huts, called 
 wkarcs, to invalids, and assisting those who need it in 
 getting into and out of the baths. I noticed one terrific 
 looking natural hot douche (noticed in chapter v., 
 p. 92) which seemed powerful and hot enough to melt 
 the spinal cord ! It seemed a favourite spot for 
 rheumatic sufferers ; all whom I interrogated said they 
 were steadily improving in health. The natives them- 
 selves believe this hot waterfall will cure everything, 
 even the scrofula, to which they are subject. An 
 emaciated little Maori baby, suffering, I found, from 
 tabes mesenterica, was brought to me for advice at this 
 place. Having been thus detained and separated from 
 the rest of the party, I sought a Maori guide, who 
 uttered the strange phrase that I have quoted in 
 chapter iii., p. 41, as a specimen of the native pronun- 
 ciation of English. The enormous subterranean force 
 in action at Whakarewarewa impressed our minds 
 almost with terror, a feeling only relieved by the beauty 
 of the coral-like fringes of silica and alum on the basins 
 round the geysers, the quaintness of the cups, saucers, 
 humps, and nests built up all around by the continual 
 deposition of sediment, and by the mental satisfaction 
 and gratitude we felt to the Almighty Power who had 
 endowed those steaming waters with such beneficent 
 qualities. 
 
 Next day we had planned an excursion to the 
 " Ellen's Isle " of Lake Kotorua, Mokoia, the scene of 
 the romantic story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai, so 
 prettily worked up in the poem " Eanolf and Amohia," 
 by Alfred Domett ; but a storm on the lake prevented 
 our starting. Judge Maning gave me his prose version 
 of the Maori legend, just as he had heard it, hundreds
 
 102 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 of times, from the old men who make it their business 
 to collect the traditions of the nation and store them 
 in their memories. These Maori memories are truly 
 wonderful, and have been recognised by the Native 
 Lands Courts in the settlement of tribal and individual 
 claims to property. I fear that the multiplication of 
 books, newspapers, and periodical literature is destroying 
 our memories in Western countries, by the phantasma- 
 goria of mental objects flitting before them every day. 
 " The daily perusal of a newspaper for three months," 
 I heard Max Miiller once say, " will destroy the 
 strongest memory." Yet what should we do without 
 the daily enlightener ? There is no space here for this 
 Hero and Leander-like tale, but should this little book 
 ever see a second edition, I will add it to the Maori 
 chapter, for it is a beautiful and characteristic story, 
 and historically true. 
 
 We next ' girded up our loins ' to the excursion of the 
 tour a visit to Wairoa, Tarawera Lake, and the Pink 
 and White Terraces of Eotomahana. Leaving our 
 hotels early on a lovely summer morning, our coach 
 accommodating, besides our /our selves, the two native 
 women-guides, Kate and Sophia, we drove to Wairoa, 
 eleven miles from Ohinemutu, full of health and 
 spirits. The guides kept up a running fire of jokes 
 in their own language with the Judge, who translated 
 for us anything that was really spicy, and the scenery 
 was most picturesque. Before arriving at Lake Tiki- 
 tapu (see map 2) the water of which is of a deep blue 
 colour, the road runs through the most exquisite piece 
 of "bush" that I have seen in New Zealand. This, 
 alas ! is now gone, perished in the. Tarawera eruption. 
 After passing Lake Tikitapu, we reach Lake Eotokahi, 
 the Green Lake, the colour of which, derived from 
 copper and iron salts in solution, forms a most peculiar 
 contrast to the former lake. At Wairoa we halted for 
 the day at Macrae's Hotel, and explored the hills 
 around. A very pretty cascade, the Wairoa Falls (a 
 rather common name in the colony), is formed here by 
 the stream that issues from Kotokakahi and falls into
 
 TEE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 103 
 
 Lake Tarawera, We visit the charming little ivy- 
 covered mission chapel, from the trellised window of 
 which one has the loveliest possible Alpine view of 
 Tarawera, and the good Charles Albert Haszard, the 
 devout teacher, minister, and friend of the natives, tells 
 us all the traditions of the place, and gathers the 
 children to sing some hymns. Could we have foreseen 
 that in a few years this good man and more than half 
 his amiable family would have been overwhelmed in 
 the ruins of their own home, the chapel destroyed, and 
 Wairoa blasted with sudden destruction, how sad would 
 our parting have been ! I found that Mr. Haszard, with 
 his wife and daughter (who happily survived the terrible 
 10th of June, 1886), had thoroughly Christianized and 
 teetotalized all the Maori children. The visits of 
 tourists had demoralized the parents by treating to 
 drink, but the children were safe. 
 
 At 7 A.M. on a hot Christmas morning, this being the 
 only day available for the guides, our party of four, with 
 the two guides, six native boatmen, and Apero, their 
 captain, proceeded in Indian file down the glen leading 
 from Macrae's to the banks of Lake Tarawera. The 
 track descends 200 feet in one mile, passing over 
 diluvial pumice and sand, abounding in lumps of dark 
 green obsidian (volcanic glass), of which I secured 
 excellent specimens for my mineral cabinet. Though 
 much chaffed about " picking up stones," I. always find 
 that it adds much to the enjoyment and the enduring 
 recollection of a trip through interesting places to 
 bring away specimens illustrating some one of the 
 natural sciences. My hobby is Mineralogy. Very 
 soon we were comfortably seated in a large whaleboat, 
 built by the Warbricks, who do a large business in this 
 line on these lakes, and rowed along the southern 
 shores of Lake Tarawera. 
 
 This lake is the largest of this district, next to Eotorua, 
 and reminds one of Loch Awe in Scotland. It is ten 
 miles long by two broad, indented by several bays, and en- 
 closed by stern-looking mountains. On its south-eastern 
 side the lake has for its background a grand table-mouu-
 
 104 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 tain, Tarawera, whose three rounded peaks, Wahanga, 
 Euawahia, and Tarawera, of an average height of 3650 
 feet above the sea, formed the foci of the great eruption 
 of 1886, described in chapter viii. Tarawera Lake has 
 an elevation of 1037 feet above sea level, and receives 
 the drainage of Lakes Eotomahana, Eotokakahi, and 
 Eotomakiriri. Its waters are drained into the sea by 
 the Eiver Tarawera, which debouches on the east coast 
 of the Bay of Plenty at the port of Matata (map 3). 
 In our strong and capacious boat we are quickly rowed 
 along the southern shore for nine miles, passing half- 
 way the Eock of the Taipo or Devil, on which Maori 
 voyagers never fail to place a present or coin, to secure 
 themselves against a tempest. Somehow or other we 
 forgot to pay this customary tribute, and I hope our 
 dusky friends noticed that no harm followed. Arriving 
 at the Kaiwaka Creek, in the Bay of Te Ariki, a narrow 
 swift stream of warm water which flows down for two 
 miles from Eotomahana (The Hot Lake, " roto " always 
 meaning " lake "), we disembark, leaving our wraps, &c., 
 in a native " dug-out " canoe, and walk the distance up 
 to the Lake of the Terraces, the far-famed Eotomahaua, 
 through open country, covered with low scrub, con- 
 sisting of ti-tree (manuka) and fern. At first sight 
 Eotomahana appeared to be a small, tame and un- 
 interesting mountain tarn of dull green water, fringed 
 with sedges, rushes, and i-tree, and abounding in wild 
 duck. No sign of human habitation anywhere. We 
 enter a canoe kept for the purpose, and are paddled 
 across to the White Terrace, the Maori name of which 
 is Te Tarata. Here begin the marvels of the unassuming 
 lakelet ; and our admiration goes on wescendo until, 
 after a bath on the Pink Terrace, our vocabulary of 
 wonder and delight is exhausted. 
 
 Standing on the lake shore, at the foot of the White 
 Terrace, we look up and behold a crescentic mass of white, 
 coral-like platforms, piled up one upon another to the 
 height of what would be eighty feet vertical, but that 
 they gradually shelve backward and upward to the sum- 
 mit, which is 300 yards from the water. The shelves
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 105 
 
 thus formed are covered with basins and cups filled with 
 warm water of a deep blue colour, perpetually rippling 
 down from an unseen source above, over their edges, 
 fringed witli innumerable stalactites into the lake at 
 our feet. Gazing upwards we see at the top of the 
 Terrace nothing but clouds of steam, and we hear 
 bubbling, roaring, and booming noises, as of a huge 
 cauldron of boiling water. Ascending slowly and 
 cautiously, some of us in rubber shoes, some without 
 because the water becomes hotter as we go higher we 
 climb forty of these shelves, the lowest having a frontage 
 of 300 yards to the lake. Mineralogically speaking, 
 each shelf or terrace is formed of white silicious sinter, 
 deposited by the gradually cooling hot water that flows 
 down from above, the latest layers showing themselves 
 as exquisitely delicate fretwork upon the surface, which 
 it seems almost sacrilegious to crush beneath our tread. 
 Having reached the summit (one of us with a scalded 
 foot), we are startled to find the source of all this hot 
 water to be an immense geyser, which shoots up into 
 the air from the unknown depths of a vast cauldron 
 of rock, upon the rim of which we are now standing. 
 Twenty, thirty, forty, or even sixty feet into the air, 
 at uncertain intervals, the geyser fountain plays ; its 
 temperature of 210 to 214, rendering all near approach 
 dangerous, and making an abrupt retreat into the scrub 
 necessary whenever the wind blows the steam towards 
 the spectator. By chemical analysis this geyser water 
 contains : 
 
 Chloride of sodium . . . .62 grs. per gallon. 
 Silicate of soda . . . . 68 
 
 Monosilicates of iron, lime, and magnesia 3 
 
 Medicinally I thought this water would prove beneficial 
 if taken internally in rickets and mollities ossium. Our 
 party now turned and looked over the lake. With but 
 a little knowledge of geology, a comprehensive glance 
 around showed us the process of formation of this 
 beautiful structure. Centuries ago a geyser of great 
 force and volume, forced up by Plutonic fires below the
 
 106 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 earth's crust, burst out near the lake margin, through a 
 hill formed of mixed clays and decomposed lava. After 
 partly crumbling away the slope of the hill, it kept 
 depositing on the ledges into which the ground was 
 formed, by the water flowing over rock and soil of 
 various resisting powers, the silicates which had been 
 dissolved in its water under enormous subterranean 
 pressure at a very high temperature thus building up 
 the wondrous terraces, basins, and stalactites before us. 
 What remains of the harder strata of the original hill is 
 a nearly vertical wall of rock surrounding the geyser, 
 except at one side. The day was warm and bright, 
 with a pleasant breeze. What, I thought, is the much- 
 praised Taj Mahal of Agra, and what are the most 
 elaborately carved cathedral sculptures of the old 
 country, all the work of man, beautiful though they 
 are, compared to this lovely tracery sculptured by the 
 Creator ! The sapphire blue of the water in the count- 
 less cups and pools sparkling in the brilliant sunshine, 
 and contrasting beautifully with the alabaster fretwork 
 done in semi-transparent yet permanent stone, inimit- 
 able by man ; the awe-inspiring geyser roaring above ; 
 the dull green dismal lake below ; the barren hills 
 around, desolate, treeless, and uninhabited ; the dusky 
 aboriginals grouped around us ; heaven's azure expanse 
 above us all these elements combined to produce a 
 picture which even a skilful artist could bat inade- 
 quately portray, and which my words can but feebly 
 represent to those who have never been there. The 
 scene impressed us all as something unique, not possible 
 to be reproduced elsewhere in the world. 
 
 Our party then, carefully guided, for the ground is 
 thickly honeycombed by volcanic furnaroles, solfataras, 
 and hot springs, explored the neighbourhood at the back 
 and side of the Terrace. Two other large geysers, Te 
 Hutu and Kakarike, we observed close by. The Devil's 
 Blow Hole, whence steam issues with a terrific noise 
 exactly like that of the escape pipe of a large steamer ; 
 the green lake emitting an odour of rotten eggs ; the 
 mud spring which the natives take internally as a cure
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 107 
 
 for certain diseases ; the Alum Cave ; and many other 
 wonders, exhibit the prodigal and varied energy of the 
 kingdom of Pluto. 
 
 After an excellent alfresco lunch, we embark in the 
 canoe, and paddle across the lake to the Pink Terrace, 
 called Otukapuarangi in Maori. Here a similar for- 
 mation of sinter terraces has been going on for ages, 
 but some coloration of a pink or coralline hue, due to 
 iron in the soil it is thought, has modified the white in 
 a very pretty manner. Some are of the opinion that 
 the discoloration is the effect of a fire or series of fires 
 among the i-tree, but in my opinion this is an 
 erroneous, because an insufficient explanation. The 
 summit geyser of the Pink Terrace is neither so hot as 
 that of the White Terrace nor so violent in its action. 
 The water, running more slowly down over the slope and 
 containing the large quantity of forty-three grains of free 
 silica in the gallon, forms cups and basins more rapidly 
 than in the case of the White Terrace, by depositing a 
 transparent film, which soon hardens and turns white 
 on exposure to the air. Objects placed in this or 
 the other mineral water become very prettily encrusted 
 with silica. Five of the upper steps of the Pink 
 Terrace have deep basins filled with warm bluish water 
 of a temperature varying from 80 to 100, forming 
 most luxurious natural baths, which we enjoyed most 
 thoroughly. The subaqueous deposit feels smooth and 
 gelatinous to the skin, and the traveller feels so happy 
 in his bath that, like the Lotophagi, he cares not how 
 time flies. But time does fly (a way time has) ; 
 the sun is declining, and after a shuddering inspection 
 of an awful " lake burning with fire and brimstone " 
 near by, a look at two other terraces whose geysers 
 have subsided ; and at six other geysers that may form 
 terraces, some day, we have reluctantly to leave this 
 wonderland. The Kaiwaka Creek, bordered by boiling 
 mud springs and steam jets, bears our narrow canoe 
 swiftly down its warm stream to Lake Tarawera, where 
 our trusty whale-boat awaits us. It is nearly dark 
 when we leave the mouth of the creek for home. Cap-
 
 108 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 tain Apero and his oarsmen pull us along lustily, with 
 many a native song and chorus, keeping admirable time, 
 Kate and Sophia smoking their pipes in much good- 
 hurnour, for they look upon Judge Maning as the great 
 rangatira, whom it was a distinguished honour to 
 conduct. We arrive at the Wairoa boat-house about 
 10 P.M., tired, but none the worse for the dangers we 
 had encountered, except our friend with the scalded foot, 
 which speedily healed. 
 
 At the time of our visit the Maori tribe who owned 
 the Lake Eotomahana, the Terraces, and the Inferno 
 near them had the sole monopoly of guiding the tourists ; 
 hence it cost us 8 for the day's excursion. They also 
 obliged any artist or photographer to pay at least 5 
 down for the privilege of obtaining any picture or 
 sketch of the ' show places.' Loud and frequent were 
 the complaints of visitors, artists especially, of these 
 extortions. But the terrible eruption of Tarawera 
 swept the tribe away as well as the objects they so 
 jealously guarded. 
 
 Our subsequent adventures and experiences even at 
 the tangi held at Te ISTgae, on the western shore of Lake 
 Kotorua, described in chapter iii., were tame compared 
 with the excursion to the Terraces. There linger in my 
 memory an exquisite rosy twilight and gorgeously 
 coloured sunset one evening at Tauranga, and the 
 witty conversation of Judge Maning, who was a per- 
 fect fountain of Maori lore, acute character-sketching, 
 and amusing stories. In chapter vii. I shall point 
 out to the reader the very numerous and striking 
 curiosities of nature (especially the Wai-o-tapu Valley), 
 that remain since the destruction of the Terraces. 
 
 The West Coast Sounds. 
 
 We now turn to the Middle Island in search of the 
 picturesque and the wonderful. The tourist asks, 
 " What is best worth seeing ? " I reply, " Whatever you 
 miss, don't fail to visit the West Coast Sounds." If the 
 North Island has volcanic scenery excelling Italy, the
 
 To fact pa^elOS 
 
 London,; A./.mv <fc &.
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 109 
 
 Middle Island has scenery surpassing in some features 
 both Switzerland and Norway. Here we find mag- 
 nificent gorges threaded by coach roads running along 
 the edge of giddy precipices ; grand forests, differing 
 from those of the warmer North Island; roaring 
 torrents and waterfalls ; wide river beds, all but^dry in 
 summer, but well filled with rushing water in winter ; 
 lakes of great size, surrounded by snow-clad mountains 
 as yet unsealed by man ; vast glaciers, to which those of 
 Norway are but small ; and the most magnificent fjords 
 in the world. 
 
 It is to these last that I wish to draw attention, as I 
 visited them in January, 1884, and as the Union Steam- 
 ship Company of New Zealand makes them accessible 
 once a year in a most convenient and enjoyable manner. 
 Here, then, is a sphere of exploration for the Alpine 
 Clufy-to ascend Mount Cook (12,379 feet), as was done 
 by the Kev. W. S. Green in 1882; Mount Aspiring; 
 Mount Earnslaw, and other " virgin " peaks; and to open 
 up tracks overland to the heads of Milford, George, and 
 Doubtful Sounds, from the heads of Lakes Wakatipu, 
 Te Anau, and Manapouri respectively. What keep 
 away the mass of tourists from these Sounds are the 
 stormy seas outside them and the limitation of the two 
 fixed excursions in summer (in January usually), when 
 only it is possible to visit them in a large steamer, at 
 leisure. Among passengers by sea in general, the writer, 
 who has traversed 50,000 miles of ocean since 1869, has 
 found only a small proportion able to preserve their 
 equanimity in rough weather ; and " the long wash of 
 Australasian seas " that beats upon the hundred miles 
 of rocky coast which is indented by the thirteen Sounds 
 is always turbulent. The only chance, other than the 
 annual excursion by the Union Company's Steamship 
 Tarawera, of visiting them, is when the regular 
 steamer from the Bluff to Melbourne, or vice .versa, calls 
 in at Milford Sound. There is no natural harbour 
 on the west coast from Milford Sound northwards 
 to Nelson. The Tarawera, a steamer of 2000 tons, 
 commanded by Captain Sinclair, is selected for this
 
 110 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 special cruise ; and the tempting programme drawn up 
 by the Union Steamship Company for the ten days' trip 
 is strictly carried out, weather permitting. Now that 
 the trip has become a regular institution, there are so 
 many travellers anxious to go that not only does the 
 Tarawera make two successive trips to the Sounds 
 the second one commencing the day after she reaches 
 home from the first but scores even are shut out of both 
 trips for want of room. The fare for the round trip is 
 12 from Port Chalmers, or 10 in addition to the 
 ordinary saloon fare to Port Chalmers from any other 
 New Zealand port. I should advise travellers visiting 
 New Zealand to secure their berths for this trip in 
 November, for the exact date of starting is usually fixed 
 by that time. The very courteous manager of the 
 company, Mr. James Mills, will, if requested, give an 
 organized party state-rooms all on one side of the vessel, 
 so that they may all take their meals together. There 
 are so many passengers that the meals have to be doubled, 
 passengers on the port side taking the first breakfast, 
 those on the starboard the second, and so on throughout 
 the day. Every detail conducive to the comfort and 
 happiness of the passengers is studied by the manager. 
 The table (always good on the Union Company's line) 
 is extra well supplied ; a double number of stewards is 
 provided ; the crew are men selected for good conduct 
 and musical or mimetic talent; there are plenty of 
 boats taken for fishing, excursions, &c. ; a photographer 
 and professional pianist accompany the party, and even 
 a carpenter is taken along to make boxes for the ferns 
 and plants the ladies may collect. For my own part I 
 never enjoyed a sea picnic more thoroughly, and the 
 fellow-passengers whom I met in after years had the 
 same feeling. Any New Zealander or Australian who 
 has not " done the Sounds," should lose no time in 
 securing a berth in the good ship Taraivera when next 
 summer comes round. He will enjoy the most mag- 
 nificent and stupendous marine scenery south of the line 
 amongst pleasant and hearty company. 
 
 Leaving Port Chalmers on Wednesday, the 9th of
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. Ill 
 
 January, 1884, with 110 saloon passengers and Captain 
 Cameron as general director of the excursion, the 
 Tarawera made direct for the nearest sound, called 
 " Preservation Inlet " by Captain Cook, who in 1773 
 discovered and named these fjords. We reached the 
 inlet at 4 P.M. on Thursday, the 10th, so that we were 
 not many hours on the ocean ; but several unfortunates 
 were forced to " seek the seclusion that a cabin grants." 
 The weather was fine in this fjord, and the sea-sick 
 passengers emerged on deck like rabbits from their 
 burrows, or like the prisoners in the opera Fidelio 
 glad indeed to breathe the fresh air, and to drink in 
 with their eyes the exquisite beauty of this, the tamest 
 of the sounds. Forest-clad-hills all round us ; shrub- 
 covered islets ; snowy peaks in the distance ; numerous 
 waterfalls, the plash of whose waters alone broke the 
 calm almost oppressive silence ; these were the features 
 that attracted and charmed us, so that all sea-sickness 
 was forgotten. After steaming for some distance up the 
 fjord, the Tarawera returned to Cuttle Cove to anchor 
 for the night. Boats, of which there were eight pro- 
 vided, were got out, and fishing commenced. And what 
 a variety we hauled up ! butterfish, blue-rock, and 
 red-cod, barra-couta, gropers, sea perch, trumpeters, 
 dog-fish, and sharks, besides others. The sharks were 
 certainly a great nuisance, carrying away lines and bait, 
 but when caught, killed, and cut open were interesting. 
 In the shallower parts of the sounds we found cray- 
 fish, which are caught by spearing, and proved to be 
 capital eating. Throughout the trip it is the practice of 
 Captain Sinclair to enter a sound by daylight, and 
 anchor at night in the next sound further on. All the 
 intricate navigation is done by daylight, there being 
 only one lighthouse (Puysegur Point) for 400 miles 
 along the coast. This course just harmonized with the 
 comfort of the passengers. My fellow-passengers proved 
 to be a thoroughly agreeable set, ready to display their 
 musical and other talents for the benefit of all. 
 Mr. A. J. Towsey, of Dunedin, a professor of music, 
 skilfully evoked and regulated these talents at the piano
 
 112 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 and organ. And the first evening, usually dull on 
 board ships, was spent as musically and socially as if 
 we had organized an evening party. By 11 P.M. the 
 order " lights out " was given. What a blessing that 
 electric fight is on board ship! No heat, no con- 
 sumption of the air, a soft and clear light, and it can be 
 turned on as well as turned off. At 6 A.M. next day 
 " all hands " turned up on deck for fresh enjoyment. 
 "We made out the peaks round us by the map : Treble 
 Mount, 3200 feet high; Forgotten Peak,. 3682 feet'; 
 Needle Peak, 4120 feet, these being suitable introduc- 
 tions to the giant mountains we saw further north. It 
 is interesting to note that as the traveller proceeds 
 northward from Preservation Inlet and Long Sound, 
 the character of each fjord becomes grander, and the 
 surrounding mountains loftier, till the grandest of all is 
 reached Milford Sound. But to resume our voyage. 
 The next day, Friday, January the llth, we spent at 
 Cuttle Cove, fishing, botanizing, exploring, and sketching, 
 although the continuous rain was rather a damper on 
 our energy. Those who landed found it hard work to 
 penetrate the dense jungle of the forest, which reached 
 from the tops of the mountains down to the water's 
 edge, the feet sinking everywhere into decayed vegeta- 
 tion, trunks of trees which had decayed where they fell, 
 and spongy moss which had water underneath it. Our 
 botanists had a good field for collecting orchids, rare 
 ferns, the crimson-blossomed rata, the blue veronica, the 
 snow-berry of a pink colour, and many other species of 
 the Middle Island flora. In several I added to my 
 collection of native woods sections of well-grown young 
 trees such as the ti-tree, rata, rimu, birch, cedar, spider- 
 wood, and others. The shell collectors were dis- 
 appointed, there being no real sea-beach anywhere in 
 the sound. The industrious photographer, Burton of 
 Dunedin, " took shots,'.' as he called it, at the scenery 
 whenever the rain permitted. He also took the 
 passengers and crew in two groups, these forming very 
 agreeable souvenirs of the trip. On Saturday, the 12th, 
 the Taraivera weighed anchor at daylight and steamed
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 113 
 
 out into the ocean, and round the lofty frowning cliffs 
 the north of Ireland magnified sixty-fold into 
 Dusky Sound, going slowly right up to the head of it. 
 Here we left letters for Mr. Doherty, who with his mate 
 lives in this solitary place. He is a good practical 
 geologist and mineralogist, it being his business to 
 examine the neighbourhood for valuable mineral 
 deposits. He brought on board a large number of 
 specimens of ore, chiefly copper, which he said were 
 valuable. Though professing to like his isolated life 
 amid Nature's wonders, he is not loth to visit Dunedin 
 sometimes by our vessel. 
 
 It was in Dusky Sound that Captain Cook, search- 
 ing for herbs to relieve his men's scurvy, discovered 
 spinach, that dainty and nutritious vegetable. Dusky 
 Sound is twenty-two miles in length, and through 
 it are scattered many picturesque wooded islands: 
 Anchor, Petrel, Parrot, Pigeon, Seal, Indian, Useless, 
 and Neman's Islands. In the hills, which rise so abruptly 
 from the water's edge that there is no landing-place for 
 boats anywhere, lithographic stone and asbestos have 
 been discovered by Mr. Doherty. The characteristic 
 feature of this Sound, we all thought, was the abundance 
 of waterfalls, (all very full in January,) because of the 
 melting of the snow on the mountain tops. From one 
 point of our course we counted no less than eleven falls 
 on one side of a certain mountain, and eighteen on the 
 other side. Each of these falls was large enough to have 
 made the fortune of a village in our own Lake country. 
 As we turned along Acheron Passage, so named after 
 the Admiralty surveying ship, H.M.S. Acheron, we 
 were [reminded by passing Vancouvertown/ that the 
 great Dutch navigator ran in here for shelter in his 
 ship Discovery. How much New Zealand and the 
 Australasian colonies owe to these heroes of the sea, not 
 one of whom either owned personally or annexed for his 
 nation the lands he discovered and named ! It may be 
 some pleasure to their " shades " to know that their 
 heroic names are stereotyped for ever on these islands 
 and the island continent of Australia.
 
 114 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 On the evening of this day, Saturday, a lively 
 entertainment was given by the musical part of the 
 crew and officers to the passengers. The orchestra 
 consisted of bones, tambourine, tin-whistle, accordion, 
 and flute. One of the seamen, Woods by name, 
 possessed one of the most delicious tenor voices I ever 
 heard; he was vociferously encored every time he 
 sung, but was so nervous that he forgot the words of 
 his songs on two occasions. One of the musical 
 officers was appropriately named Nightingale. Our 
 evenings were all occupied in some fun or other. 
 Among the 110 tourists there were eight of my own 
 profession, twelve teachers of both sexes, but not a 
 single parson ! We moved on during Saturday night 
 to Breaksea Sound (see map 4), so as to spend the 
 Sunday tranquilly in Wet Jacket Arm ; another be- 
 fitting name conferred by Captain Cook, for it rained 
 incessantly while we were there. The vegetation here 
 is most luxuriant, and even in rain the scenery most 
 lovely, reminding me of Lago Garda, in the Italian 
 Switzerland. We had the episcopal Morning Service 
 very well read by Mr. H. Worthington, of Auckland, 
 the chants and hymns being also well rendered by an 
 amateur choir of passengers, drilled by Mr. Towsey. 
 In the afternoon and evening the American organ was 
 kept going by hymns and sacred music. Wet Jacket 
 Arm should always be included in a choice of photo- 
 graphs of the sounds. Early on Monday morning we 
 moved along Acheron Passage out into the open sea, 
 retracing our route for a few miles; then, entering 
 Doubtful Sound by its Bradshaw Arm about noon, we 
 proceeded up Smith's Sound to Holla Island ; and 
 returning by Thompson Sound to the open ocean, we 
 entered Caswell Sound in the evening and anchored 
 there for the night. Assuming Dr. Hector's theory to 
 be correct, we can explain most of the appearances of 
 these sounds, their shoreless margins, numerous islands 
 all in deep water, luxuriant vegeta'tion, &c. He is 
 of opinion that all the sounds were formed by a 
 sudden sinking of the ivJiole south-west coast through
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 115 
 
 some interior convulsion of nature. The adjacent hills 
 had been much above their present apparent height, 
 and the deep water of the sounds had then been 
 represented only by small intervening valleys. After 
 this convulsion the water from the ocean had rushed 
 in, filling up the gaps between the hill slopes to their 
 present sea level. Thus the shoreless islands now 
 represent tops of submerged hills. 
 
 The evening spent here, the anchorage being in Shoal 
 Cove, was agreeably filled in by a concert given by the 
 passengers to the officers and crew. During the night a 
 thunderstorm came on, and Captain Sinclair for a time 
 experienced some anxiety lest the Tarawera should drag 
 her anchor and drift on the rocks, but the anchor held 
 firm. Caswell Bay Marble is famous throughout New 
 Zealand, but the comparative inaccessibility of the 
 quarry, and the limited extent of the market, make it 
 at present a profitless product. Next we entered 
 George Sound, where the bush is richer than in any 
 sound. I joined an exploring party, who traced up to 
 its source in a small lake the river whose handsome 
 cascade is quite a prominent feature in this beautiful 
 fjord. The rain was here so heavy that we had to 
 abandon our proposed regatta, although 15 had 
 already been collected for prizes. Mountains of 5000 
 feet now surround us, preparing us to some extent 
 for the tremendous proportions of our next sound, 
 the crown of them all, 
 
 Milford Sound. 
 
 We reached this, the final point of our excursion, at 
 noon on the 16th of January, passing by Bligh Sound, 
 and two other bays. In Bligh Sound Governor Bo wen 
 was once detained by an accident to H.M.S. Clio for 
 a fortnight during an official tour, and was released by 
 the daring and successful journey made across the 
 trackless mountains by Dr. Hector from Martin's Bay 
 to Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu. On entering Mil- 
 ford Sound we miss the forest-clad hills rising from 
 
 I 2
 
 116 ' NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 the water's edge to which we have been accustomed in 
 other fjords. We pass from the ocean into Anita Bay, 
 a gateway of lofty frowning rocks, 4500 feet high and 
 proceed up the Narrows, a deep channel only 300 
 yards wide, the sides of which tower up to 3000 or 
 4000 feet. It seems as if the Titans had hewn a canal 
 through the mountains. The glacial theory of the 
 formation of the West Coast Sounds would seem to 
 explain this and other features of Milford Sound more 
 satisfactorily than the other plausible theory framed 
 by Sir James Hector, mentioned on a previous page. 
 When the Sound opens out into the upper bay the 
 grandeur of the scene is indescribable. In front you 
 have the (then) largest and highest known waterfall in 
 the colony, the Bowen Fall, 540 feet in actual height. 
 Its peculiarity consists in the fact of the river forming 
 the cascade falling into a rocky recess forty feet below 
 the ledge of the river bed, which has become so 
 hollowed out in the course of centuries that it now 
 causes the fall to rebound in a great arch, and to leap 
 clear over the rocks 500 feet into the sound below. 
 This magnificent fall has been named after Lady 
 Bowen, the wife of the popular Governor above men- 
 tioned. On approaching the fall in a boat the spray 
 wetted our party while yet at a long distance from the 
 fall. In 1888 the prestige of the Bowen Fall of being 
 the highest in Austialasia was eclipsed by the dis- 
 covery by Mr. Sutherland, the resident of " Milford 
 City," of a fall 1900 feet high, near Lake Ada. far up 
 in the Southern Alps. It has been named Sutherland 
 Fall after its discoverer, and is higher than the Great 
 Yosemite Fall by 500 feet. It is the highest known in 
 the world with the exception of that fall in Norway, 
 which is estimated at 2000 feet from the mountain 
 ledge to the bottom of the valley. 
 
 Let me now try to give the reader an idea of l.he pano- 
 rama of this glorious upper bay. To the right, as one looks 
 southward towers up Mount Kimberley, which Las the 
 p-hape of a lion couchant ; and behind ii rises the far- 
 famed Mitre Peak, 6500 feet high, the subject of so much
 
 THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 117 
 
 artistic attention. Resembling in shape a bishop's mitre, 
 this mountain, when the sunlight or evening glow gilds 
 its twin peaks, surpasses in wondrous beauty Monte 
 Rosa, the Matterhorn, or Mont Blanc. In the early 
 morning of a calm day the outline of the upper part of 
 Mitre Peak, Mount Kimberley being in front sloping 
 to the water's edge, is mirrored in the deep brown 
 waters of the sound ; and then is the time when the 
 photographer's camera or the artist's brush can portray 
 some of its beauty. But when a thunder-cloud settles 
 on its head Mitre Peak is changed beyond recognition. 
 An " instantaneous " photograph, representing a dense 
 dark cloud settling on the mountain's brow, that I 
 bought from Burton, makes the whole scene wonderfully 
 like Vesuvius emitting its cloud of smoke. Friends, 
 when looking over my alburn of views, invariably ask, 
 " Which of the volcanoes is this ? " Mitre Peak was 
 ascended in February, 1883, by two intrepid moun- 
 taineers, D. Sutherland and S. H. Moreton. They 
 report a good many difficulties, such as having to scale 
 precipitous walls of granite, to cross glaciers, moraines, 
 deep water-courses, and very rough rocky ground in 
 general. The flora was of a distinctly Alpine character 
 up to 5500 feet in altitude, and then vegetation ceased. 
 From the summit there is the grandest possible view of 
 the Southern Alps: Mount Cook, nearly 13,000 feet; 
 Mount Aspiring, 9940 feet ; Mount Pembroke, 8710 feet ; 
 Moreton Peak, Underwood Peak, and Mount Christina, 
 each about 9000 feet; Mount Tetoku, nearly 10,000 
 feet; and snow-fields with a glacier underneath 100 
 miles in extent all these form a panorama which the 
 Bernese Oberland may rival but cannot surpass. 
 Neither the Svartisen nor Folgefond glaciers of Norway 
 (the former of which I visited in August, 1889) are 
 more than half the size of the immense Pembroke 
 Glacier. All the scenery in Milford Sound is on such 
 a gigantic scale, excelling even the best Norwegian 
 fjords, except perhaps Geiranger Fjord, that one visit 
 of so short a duration is not sufficient to realise its 
 grandeur. From the deck of the Tarawera, which kept
 
 118 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 slowly moving round the bay, because there was no 
 anchorage anywhere, the spectator could see eighteen 
 waterfalls at one time; and as far as the eye could 
 reach it ranged over torrents, scarped rocks, forests, 
 valleys, snow-peaks, and glaciers. The more ad- 
 venturous of our party longed to land and explore 
 some of these romantic gorges, one of which formed by 
 the Arthur Kiver leads up to Lake Ada. One in- 
 teresting phenomenon I had never observed before in 
 all my travels. An enormous quantity of fresh water 
 from countless rivers and streamlets is continually 
 poured into the head of the sound. The sea water, 
 from its greater density, remains underneath this layer 
 of fresh water, so that our screw propeller seemed to 
 churn up the water into two colours, for it went deep 
 enough to turn up the green sea water from below, 
 which thus displaced and mixed with the dark-brown 
 fresh water of the surface. The upper part of Milford 
 Sound resembles the Yosernite Valley of California, as 
 far as a fjord can resemble a valley. The little 
 shanties, forming the pigmy village, which facetiously 
 calls itself " Milford City," constitute a step from the 
 sublime to the opposite. D. Sutherland, a native of 
 Wick in Scotland, is a bit of a humourist, and trots 
 out a Latin quotation now and then, as, for instance, on 
 one hut we read, " Esperance Chalet, No. 1, Kennedy 
 Street ; " on a second hut, " D. Sutherland, No. 1, Eotorua 
 Street, 4 11 78 Semper Paratus." The double visit 
 in summer of the Tarawera excursionists is the great 
 event in the hermit's life. Both Doherty and Suther- 
 land have the companionship of dogs endowed with 
 an intelligence almost super-canine, reminding me of 
 the accomplishments of " Caesar," the hunting New- 
 foundland dog my friend A. Eeischek takes with him 
 in his rambles. During many months of hardship and 
 solitude in these Sounds " the world forgetting, by the 
 world forgot " this naturalist, aided by his four-footed 
 friend, has contributed more than any other scientist 
 to our knowledge of the avifauna of New Zealand. 
 Our captain, after only eight hours' stay amid these
 
 THE WONDEELANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 119 
 
 wonders ruthlessly carried us off as the shades of 
 evening gathered round; and truly even a summer's 
 day is short in Milford Sound, from the manner in 
 which it is closely shut in by lofty mountains. Steam- 
 ing carefully back to the open sea, after firing a cannon 
 and awaking a thousand echoes, we steered direct to the 
 Bluff Harbour to land some passengers who wished to 
 explore Lake Wakatipu (the Windermere and Ullswater 
 in one of the colony), and some who preferred taking 
 rail to Dunedin to another night at sea. Next morn- 
 ing we arrived safe at Port Chalmers as happy as 
 possible, but loth to separate, as so many warm friend- 
 ships had been formed on the voyage. 
 
 I find I have not mentioned one little drawback to 
 the comfort of tourists who land anywhere in the sounds, 
 I mean the sand flies, whose bite is more tedious in its 
 consequences than that of a mosquito. Travellers of 
 both sexes should wear gloves and a veil while on 
 shore ; if gloves cannot be obtained, the next best pro- 
 tection is to rub kerosene on the skin. For the bite 
 itself the best remedy is the tincture of a plant called 
 the Ledum palustre. 
 
 The wonderland of the Middle Island in which we 
 find the best features of Switzerland, Norway, and the 
 Tyrol combined is composed of these thirteen sounds, 
 the Southern Alps, the Otago lakes, and the road from 
 Bealey to Hokitika.
 
 120 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 THE VOLCANIC ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 
 
 New Zealand a link in the chain of the Pacific Ocean volcanoes 
 Principal volcanic eruptions from 1883 to 1886 Upheaval of 
 North Island Great fissure in earth's crust, running north-east 
 to south-west Taupo volcano zone Its craters and hot springs 
 Premonitory signs of the Tarawera outbreak The eruption 
 of June 10, 1886 Analysis of the ashes Results of the erup- 
 tion Loss of life Death of C. Haszard, Edwin A. Bainbridge, 
 and Tuhoto T. Minett's narrative The Wonderland that 
 remains "Waio-tapu Valley New Sinter Terraces forming 
 Pink Cauldron and Crow's Nest Geyser of Wairakei Mount 
 Horo-Horo Lake Taupo The new grand tour : Te Aroha, 
 Eotorua, Ruapehu National Park to the Upper Wanganui River. 
 
 A COMPREHENSIVE glance at a physical map of the 
 whole Pacific Ocean will show, if the volcanic regions 
 be marked, that within its enormous expanse of seventy- 
 two millions of square miles, and around it on north, east, 
 and west, are numerous active and extinct volcanoes. 
 And the history of this district during the last ten 
 years affords examples of eruptions breaking out in 
 new places on a gigantic scale. Of these outbreaks 
 not the least formidable was the eruption of Tarawera, 
 a mountain 3650 feet high, situated in the Hot Lake 
 region of the North Island of New Zealand in S. lat. 
 38 15', and E. long. 176, which took place on the 
 10th of June, 1886, with the disastrous results of 
 the loss of 111 lives ; the injury of the pasturage and 
 agriculture over 500 square miles ; and the destruction 
 of the most lovely ornaments of the land of Pounamou, 
 (a Maori name of New Zealand), the White and Pink 
 Terraces described in the previous chapter. Volcano- 
 logists assert that in the Pacific Ocean and the coasts
 
 Longitude Ea st of Greemvi ch . 177 
 
 L; S.Low & Co.
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 121 
 
 of the continents bordering it there is an immense 
 amount of subterranean and sub-aerial volcanic action 
 always going on, which demands vents of sufficient 
 number and magnitude to liberate its forces, and that 
 a distinct connection or sequence can be traced between 
 eruptions, whether accompanied by seismic disturbances 
 or not, at places far distant from one another. An 
 ordinary amount of subterranean energy may be set 
 free at an old vent, a crater previously active, as in 
 Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, Hawaii, and the Andes. 
 But an unusual amount often breaks out in a new place, 
 upheaving an island from the immensely deep ocean 
 bottom, as at Tonga and White Island ; or changing 
 completely the form and structure of a once active crater, 
 as at Krakatoa, in the Straits of Sunda ; or, lastly, blow- 
 ing out the side of a mountain, not a previously existing 
 crater, blazing out through each of its three peaks, and 
 permanently elevating them by 170 feet vertically as 
 in the striking event, unique in both the history and 
 tradition of the colony, which is the subject of this 
 chapter. 
 
 White Island, or Whakari, is a sulphur volcano, in 
 the Bay of Plenty, twenty-eight miles off the shore near 
 Tauranga, and is always active. It forms the eastern 
 visible limit of that extensive belt of subterranean 
 agitation which extends from White, Mayor, and 
 Whale Islands through Eotorua and Taupo Lakes, 
 across Mounts Euapehu (8878 feet), ISTgauruhoe (7481 
 feet), still active, and Tongariro (6500 feet), to the 
 Wairarapa Valley and the city of Wellington. The 
 White Island crater is now in the solfatara state. It 
 is important to note that the great eruption of 
 Krakatoa whereby whole towns were destroyed, a 
 mountain lowered, the navigation of the Straits of 
 Sunda seriously impeded, and such an enormous and 
 unprecedented mass of volcanic ejecta were blown into 
 the air as to modify (in the opinion of many eminent 
 scientists) the colour of the sunsets for many months 
 all over the globe occurred August 27, 1883. On 
 the next day, August 28th, the waters of Lake Taupo,
 
 122 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 fully 5000 miles distant, fell fully two feet in level, and 
 rose again. Such a phenomenon had never occurred 
 before, nor has it since. This recalls the fact that after 
 the great Lisbon earthquake, in 1755, the waters of 
 Lochs Lomond and Katrine in Scotland, and of the great 
 lakes in America, rose and fell in a similar manner. 
 It is not unscientific to believe that these phenomena 
 were linked together. Now let us connect the preceding 
 with the following facts. First, the Sunda or Krakatoa 
 eruption in 1883. Second, the comparative quiescence 
 of the largest volcano of the world, Kilauea, the crater 
 of Mauna Loa, in Hawaii. Third, in the latter part of 
 1885 the unusual energy of the White Island Sulphur 
 volcano. Fourth, a return of great activity in Mauna 
 Loa. Fifth, the sudden outbreak, in June, 1886, of a 
 new volcano, Tarawera, in New Zealand. Sixth, the 
 formation of a volcanic island by a submarine volcano 
 that suddenly appeared on the 30th August, 1886, at 
 Niuafu in the Tongan Islands, S. lat. 17. We 
 may conclude that a subterranean and subaqueous 
 wave passed along the fluid belt beneath the earth's 
 crust and affected all these widely distant points with 
 seismic and eruptive disturbances. A quiescence at one 
 vent of volcanic energy is compensated for by increased 
 activity at another focus. 
 
 Undoubtedly the surface of the North Island of New 
 Zealand has been upheaved by volcanic action in 
 times not so very remote, from a geologist's point of 
 view, that is to say, in the Eecent and Tertiary periods, 
 to which belong the basaltic and rhyolitic rocks, which 
 constitute at least one-third of the area of this island. 
 Within ten miles of Auckland city Dr. Hochstetter 
 counted no less than sixty-three extinct craters. I 
 have studied with great interest the ridges and fields 
 of solidified lava which in ages past flowed down from 
 Mounts Eden, Albert, and Hobson, now forming the 
 healthiest suburbs of Auckland. Often when driving 
 over these lines of lava, the hollow rumbling sound 
 made by the wheels of the carriage told of the large 
 bubbles of air imprisoned by the rapidly cooling fluid
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TAEAWERA. 123 
 
 ages ago. As one would expect, these lava ridges 
 make the roads so " hummocky " (to use a colonialism) 
 as to be costly to maintain in order. On the island of 
 Rangitoto we can study the latest forms of black lava 
 and brecciated tufa. The accompanying map, drawn 
 by Mr. S. Percy Smith, now Surveyor-General of New 
 Zealand, to whose exhaustive and thoroughly scientific 
 official report on the Tarawera eruption I am much 
 indebted, displays the whole of the Taupo volcanic 
 zone. This zone covers an area of 4725 square miles, 
 over which none but volcanic rocks or their derivatives 
 are to be found; and it includes all the late and 
 present active manifestations of thermal and Plutonic 
 energy, the hot springs and geysers being marked in 
 red. The longer axis of this volcanic zone runs 
 north-east to north-west, and nearly coincides, it is 
 thought by Mr. Smith and other competent geologists, 
 with a great fissure in the earth's crust from which in 
 Eocene times the islands of New Zealand were thrown 
 up so as to appear above the surface of the sea. This 
 scientific theory is in curious agreement with the 
 legend of the god Maui, and his fish, Te Ika o Maui, 
 alluded to in chapter iii. The general direction of 
 this deep-seated fissure is parallel to the chief mountain 
 chains of both islands. As in Italy so in New 
 Zealand, the more recent and still active volcanic 
 energy is confined to the districts nearest the equator. 
 In chapter ii. I have compared the district north of 
 Auckland to southern Italy. 
 
 The area of country covered with pumice mixed with 
 a rusty-coloured arenaceous loam is about 10,775 square 
 miles. The pumice varies from blocks containing 1000 
 cubic feet down to grains the size of coarse sand. In 
 the Auckland Museum is to be seen a series of speci- 
 mens finely illustrating the transition of pumice-stone 
 to obsidian, with which it is chemically identical. 
 Changes of the surface are always going on in this 
 volcanic zone ; chemical decompositions ; sub-aerial 
 denudation ; the dissolution of soluble cjecta ; and the 
 deposition of many substances (silica, lime salts,
 
 124 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 sulphur, alum, clay, &c.) by countless thermal springs. 
 No less than six extinct volcanoes, namely Tongariro, 
 Kakaramea, Pihanga, Tauhara, Mount Edgecumbe, and 
 Mayor Island, containing among them twelve more or 
 less perfect craters, and having hot springs close to 
 their bases, exist within this Zone. This state of things 
 shows that the volcanic forces are not really extinct ; 
 they have simply changed the places and the character 
 of their manifestations. We must not forget that 
 volcanic energy is world- wide; for even in steady old 
 Britain we have an earthquake now and then ; hot 
 springs exist at Bath, Strathpeffer, and elsewhere ; while 
 the Isle of Skye offers a most interesting field for the 
 study of extinct volcanic phenomena. We now proceed 
 to the detailed consideration of the eruption of Mount 
 Tarawera on June 10, 1886. 
 
 Mount Tarawera (3650 feet) on the shore of the lake 
 of that name, resembled Table Mountain, Cape of Good 
 Hope, when I saw it in 1880. It is wonderfully 
 changed now. It is composed of rhyolitic and trachytic 
 rocks, and is (Mr. Smith thinks), of igneous origin, but 
 not an extinct volcano ; nor does it possess any trace of 
 a crater. The three summits mentioned in chapter vi. 
 are, in order, from north-east to north-west, Wahanga, 
 Ruawahia, and Tarawera. So free was Tarawera from 
 even the tradition of ever having been a source of erup- 
 tion that the Maoris of the Arawa tribe had buried 
 their chiefs there for centuries. The Maoris of the 
 Tuhourangi tribe, the same who had monopolised the 
 Terraces so covetously (see chapter vi.), had removed 
 to a place called Te Ariki, on a little bay in Lake 
 Tarawera, close to the mountain that broke out. These 
 all perished to a man. An old chief, Eangiheua by 
 name, with about a dozen of the Maoris of the 
 Tuhourangi tribe, had encamped on two islets in Lake 
 Eotomahana for the purposes of sanitary bathing ; and 
 these shared the same fate. The total loss of life is 
 reckoned at 111 lives six Whites and 105 Maoris.
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 125 
 
 Premonitory Signs. 
 
 June in this latitude corresponds to December in the 
 northern hemisphere. The rains of winter had just 
 begun to fall when the eruption took place, after a very 
 dry summer. ]3ut the evening of the 9th of June was 
 fine, permitting the visitors at Eotorua to see distinctly 
 the occultation of Mars by the moon at 10.20 P.M. 
 Most fortunate it was and a cause of deep thankfulness 
 that the event I am about to chronicle took place in 
 winter, when there are very few visitors to the lakes 
 and Terraces, and before the establishment of an hotel 
 on the shores of Lake Eotomahana, which was planned 
 for the following summer season. The loss of life would 
 then have been terrible, involving persons from all parts 
 of the world, who in rapidly increasing numbers have 
 been attracted to these beauties of nature. Various 
 changes in the level of Lake Eotokakahi ; increased 
 violence of the geysers of the White Terrace, of 
 Wairakei, and of Toka-anu; together with the new 
 phenomenon of steam issuing from the extinct crater of 
 Mount Euapehu (the Mont lilanc of the North Island), 
 had been noticed by competent observers. The last 
 scientific visitor of note to the Terraces, Dr. T. S. Ealph, 
 of Melbourne, on the 1st of June, describes a peculiar 
 and unusual wave on Lake Tarawera, which caused a 
 temporary rise of the water to the extent of one foot. 
 The guide of his party, Sophia, was alarmed, stating that 
 no such wave had been seen on the lake for fifteen 
 years. There was no wind at the time. At the Pink 
 Terrace it was noticed that there had been a very 
 unusual ejection of mud from that geyser. It was on 
 this 1st of June that the Maori boatmen started the 
 story of the spectral canoe of ancient shape, filled by 
 warriors of the Arawa tribe, which, they said, they saw 
 crossing the Lake Tarawera. Mr. Edwin Bainbridge, 
 one of the victims of the eruption, told Dr. Ealph that 
 on the 1st of June, ab<mt the hour that the tidal wave 
 had been seen, he was riding towards Wairoa, and
 
 126 NE W . ZEALAND. 
 
 heard a report like the boom of a cannon. In view of 
 subsequent events, it is concluded by scientists that this 
 lake wave was due to an earthquake, or to a subsidence 
 of the shore, marking perhaps the first significant 
 fracture of the rock-masses superimposed on the im- 
 prisoned steam, which shortly afterwards was to work 
 such destruction. It is strange that the barometer 
 (self-registering) at Eotorua showed no sign of atmo- 
 spheric disturbance, either before, during, or after the 
 eruption. 
 
 The Eruption of Tarawera, 
 
 About 1 A.M., on June the 10th, slight earthquake 
 shocks were felt by the inhabitants of Wairoa, a village 
 eight miles from and due west of Mount Tarawera and 
 by those of Rotorua (eleven miles north-west of Wairoa), 
 where the shakings were accompanied by rumbling 
 noises. At 2 . 10 or 2.20 A.M. this rumbling noise had 
 increased at Eotorua to a continuous and fearsome roar, 
 and a rather heavy earthquake occurred, felt also at 
 Whakarewarewa, Maketu, Opotiki, Oropi, and Tauranga. 
 At the same time three enormous columns of fire and 
 smoke were seen to rise from the flat summit of 
 Tarawera and to shoot up into the air to an immense 
 height. From this great cloud flashes of electricity and 
 balls of fire darted in all directions, accompanied by 
 loud crackling noises, such as are heard in auroral 
 displays and in the discharges of the static electrical 
 machines. Repeated and very loud claps of thunder 
 were heard. Fireballs, that is, red hot lumps of scoria, 
 and other stone, rolled down the sides of Tarawera or 
 were projected into Wairoa, setting on fire some of the 
 houses and huts. From 3 A.M. to 6 A.M., as the great 
 black cloud worked its way towards the west, north, and 
 south, showers of stone, of mud, and of rain over- 
 whelmed Wairoa, Te Ariki, and the whole neighbour- 
 hood of Tarawera and Rotomahana. From Rotomahana, 
 shortly after the outbreak at Tarawera, rose a column 
 of steam, with loud explosions at intervals, and
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TAEAWERA. 127 
 
 ejections of mud, sand, and ashes. In Auckland two 
 loud explosions were heard at about 2 . 30 A.M., waking 
 people from their slumbers, myself among the number. 
 The detonations were interpreted by the morning paper 
 to be the sounds of signal guns of distress fired by 
 some large ship aground on the dangerous Manukau 
 bar, but by 9 A.M. telegrams from Eotorua disclosed 
 their real origin. These explosions were heard also 
 at Hamilton, Cambridge, Te Aroha, New Plymouth, 
 Helens ville, Whangarei, Waiapu, Taupo,and Wellington, 
 in the North Island ; and at Nelson, Blenheim, and 
 Christchurch, in the Middle Island. 
 
 The earthquakes were felt at Te Aroha, Cambridge, 
 Lichfield, Waiapu, Taupo, and other places in the North 
 Island. At Eotorua they recurred every ten minutes 
 or so during the 10th of June, and at frequent intervals 
 for days afterwards. 
 
 The flashes of electricity were distinctly seen at 
 Auckland, 130 miles distant in a straight line. The 
 vast cloud arising from the new volcano was highly 
 charged with lightning, flashing and darting across and 
 through it, sometimes shooting upwards in long 
 streamers, at other downwards or horizontally, often 
 ending in balls of fire, which burst into thousands of 
 rocket-like stars. The immense cloud of ashes and 
 dust shot up to an almost incredible height in the air, 
 driven first by the south-easterly wind in a westerly 
 direction, and then by the south-west wind towards the 
 north and east. I saw it among hundreds of people at 
 Auckland from the hill called Mount Victoria, North 
 Shore, on the 12th of June, and its height was ascer- 
 tained by surveyors to be 44,700 feet, or a little over 
 eight miles above the sea level ! It quenched the bright 
 moonlight on that fatal night, and darkened the sky 
 until 11 A.M. over all the country around. Charged with 
 ash, dust, sand, and small stones, it spread over 5700 
 miles of land, dropping these as it went, places 160 
 miles apart being covered with the material ; and it 
 passed far out to sea also. The farms along the coast- 
 line of the Bay of Plenty, from Tauranga to Opotiki,
 
 128 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 suffered heavily by the destruction of the grasses and 
 vegetation, which caused the death of cattle and sheep 
 from want of food, many of the settlers not having hay 
 or the means to procure it. But the country was not 
 permanently affected, for the rains of the winter washed 
 the deposited dust into the soil, and it proved a 
 fertilizer to the more barren places in the district, 
 while somewhat deleterious to the fertile soils. This 
 volcanic dust consisted, according to its proximity to or 
 remoteness from the focus of the cloud, of the following 
 ingredients: silica 66'5 to 55'7 ; alumina 14'5 to 13'8 ; 
 iron oxides 4 to 8*3 ; lime 2*9 to 6'35 ; magnesia 1*60 
 to 1'40. In addition there were, on testing it with 
 dilute hydrochloric acid, the following substances : soda, 
 potash, chlorine, phosphoric and sulphuric acids, and 
 organic matter. 
 
 Eesults of the Eruption. 
 
 The eruption was practically all over in six hours as 
 far as Tarawera Mountain was concerned. But the 
 craters formed on the site of Eotomahana continued 
 active until the 6th of August. The magnitude of the 
 eruption must not be gauged by the time it lasted, for 
 a marvellous amount of volcanic energy was compressed 
 into a short space of time. The eruption-effects began 
 to" be observed from the 13th of June onwards, for 
 exploring parties started off promptly on hearing the 
 news from Auckland, Napier, Taupo, and Cambridge. 
 
 Mr. Percy Smith, on the part of the Government, 
 reports in his official pamphlet 1st, that the eruption 
 has formed a great fissure in the earth's crust (marked 
 in red on map 3), nine miles long from north-east to 
 south-west, of a mean width of a furlong, but at Eoto- 
 mahana a mile and a half broad, 900 feet deep at the 
 northern, and 300 feet deep at the southern end. 2nd, 
 that Eotomahana has become a great crater of one 
 and a half miles in diameter. This crater is encircled 
 by precipitous walls from 200 to 300 feet high. Below 
 the walls the ground slopes by ridges and hollows to
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 129 
 
 the central cavity now filled by water, which is only 
 565 feet above sea level, or 515 feet below the 
 former level of Rotomahana Lake. In this large crater 
 are geysers vomiting steam and mud. Its sides are 
 branded with various colours, the yellow of the ferro- 
 chlorides, and the white of the silicates and lime oxides 
 predominating. 
 
 Both Pink and White Terraces have disappeared so 
 completely that even their sites can only be guessed at 
 by the native and half-caste guides, who are so fami- 
 liar with the locality. The conjecture, most probably 
 accurate, judging from the fragments of white silicious 
 sinter found scattered about the northern side of the 
 Rotomahana crater, and the damming up of the Kai- 
 waka creek to the depth of eighty feet, is that the Pink 
 Terrace has been overwhelmed by a great mass of mud 
 and stones, and that the White Terrace has been partly 
 blown to pieces, and partly has been sunk down far 
 below the ground. A great many cracks in the ground, 
 varying from a few inches to forty feet wide, made by 
 earthquakes, exist in this district. The general direction 
 is parallel to the great fissure. The desolate hue of the 
 whole district round where the bluish-grey mud still 
 lingers can be better imagined than described ; but there 
 is still much scenery of great interest for visitors to 
 explore, as I shall describe later on. 
 
 The ashes and mud that covered the country over so 
 large an area (p. 127) have now been to a large extent 
 carried off by the streams and rivers ; the river Tarawera 
 (which before the eruption had perfectly clear water), 
 ever since the eruption having had its stream made 
 milky-white, and even whitening, the sea for a mile or 
 two near its mouth (see Map 3), throughout the summer 
 of 1886-7. The Government have made new roads, 
 practicable for buggies and light carriages, nearly up to 
 the edge of the great fissure, and to Wairoa, from which 
 points one can plainly see the great gash, as it were, in 
 the side of Tarawera. As the activity of the three 
 craters of this mountain has now (July, 1889) ceased, 
 Mr. Smith is of opinion that the eruption of June the 10th 
 
 K
 
 130 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 1886, was an incomplete effort to form a permanently 
 active volcano like Vesuvius or ^Etna, only the first 
 stage of the formation being actually attained, further 
 developments may be looked for ; and we in Auckland, 
 being absolutely free from earthquakes, and from other 
 manifestations of disturbance, ascribed our continued 
 immunity to this safety-valve of Tarawera. The alarm 
 felt for some months about the stability of Eotorua and 
 Whakarewarewa, where the geysers have played more 
 vigorously since the eruption, has passed away ; and, 
 as the bath accommodation there is very much improved 
 and enlarged, visitors and invalids have resumed coming 
 in large numbers. 
 
 TJie Loss of Life ~by the Eruption. 
 
 Two native settlements, Te Moura and Te Ariki, were 
 destroyed, and every life lost (including a white man), 
 except one. At Wairoa several natives were killed by 
 the falling stones, or smothered in their huts by the 
 mud, scoria, and stones together. This result of the 
 Tarawera eruption reminds us of the sudden destruction 
 of Herculaneum and Pompeii, by the eruption of 
 Vesuvius in A.D. 79, by the ashes and scoria ; but the 
 entire absence of molten lava from the former outbreak 
 marks a distinct difference. The most pathetic incidents 
 were the deaths of Mr. Haszard, the schoolmaster, and 
 his three children ; the injuries of Mrs. Haszard, who 
 was dug out of the burnt and crushed house, with a 
 dead child lying on her lap ; and the death of Mr. 
 Edwin A. Bainbridge, of Newcastle-on-Tyne, at Macrae's 
 Hotel. A touching little memoir of the latter, who 
 was an eminent young Christian, has been written by 
 Mr. Darlington (published by Morgan and Scott), from 
 which I take the following details, as they give the 
 reader a vivid picture of the horrors of that fatal 
 night. 
 
 Mr. Bainbridge had visited the Terraces on the 8th 
 of June, and was staying at the Te "Wairoa Hotel, kept 
 by a brave Scotchman, Macrae, on the night of the 9th.
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 131 
 
 He was awakened about 1 A.M. by the landlord, who 
 was the first in the house to be roused, by a severe 
 earthquake and a roaring wind which suddenly sprang 
 up. Mr. Minett, one of the twenty persons staying in 
 the hotel, thus records the events of the night (I 
 condense his narrative) : " I could see the Tarawera 
 mountain belching out flames thousands of feet into the 
 air, and illuminating the whole heavens, clouds of 
 steam and smoke rose above this and a molten shining 
 mass rolled down the sides. The wind increased ; it 
 began, as we thought, to rain heavily. The windows 
 were smashed in and we found that what we had taken 
 for rain was scoria and stones. The wind, blowing 
 violently, was veering and shifting in every direction ; 
 stones and scoria were dashing on the house with 
 deafening noise ; and the roaring of the crater was 
 tremendous. The roof of the house now began to fall 
 in various places ; dust, tons of sand, came thundering 
 through the roof, clearing all before it, and lodging in 
 the staircase within a yard of where we were assembled. 
 Looking out, we perceived a fire on the opposite side of 
 the road, which reminded us of the danger we were in 
 from the same cause, and in about five minutes we saw 
 a still larger fire to our right, which we made out was 
 Mr. Haszard's house in a blaze. . . between earthquake 
 and fire we stood expecting death. Mr. Bainbridge 
 now, by consent of Mr. Macrae and the rest of those 
 present, read a chapter from the Bible, about the 
 penitent thief on the cross and his forgiveness, spoke a 
 few words of solemn exhortation, and offered a beautiful 
 and touching prayer. We were all silent expecting 
 death at any moment either by being buried alive by 
 the sand, mud, and stones that were overwhelming the 
 house, or by suffocation by the sulphurous gases that 
 pervaded the air, or by being crushed under the falling 
 timbers ; or swallowed up by the opening ground as it 
 trembled under our feet. Mr. Bainbridge, though calm, 
 seemed to feel that he would not survive the night. 
 He said that whether he lived or died the disaster 
 would have a great effect on his family, as his brother 
 
 K 2
 
 132 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Cuthbert had been accidentally shot, and his sister May 
 had lately died suddenly from disease. . . It was 
 determined to make a start for Sophia's whare (whose 
 highly sloped roof effectually prevented the mud from 
 burying it, and thereby saved the lives of many) ; the 
 crashing of the house in all directions and the roaring 
 of the volcano prevented any one from hearing the 
 sound of the falling verandah, which must have collapsed 
 just at this time . . . When Mr. Bainbridge's body was 
 found, it appeared that while in the act of leaving the 
 hotel he had been caught and crushed by the verandah. 
 His last words written in his diary on the night of his 
 death were full of trust and faith : ' This is the most 
 awful moment of my life. I cannot tell when I may 
 be called on to meet my God. I am thankful that J 
 find His strength sufficient for me.' " 
 
 Kind Auckland friends buried him at Eotorua and 
 erected an obelisk with a suitable inscription. Thus 
 died a Christian hero at the early age of twenty, a 
 simple, gentle, fearless, and pure character, beloved by 
 all who knew him. 
 
 Another victim of the eruption was a very different 
 character, old Tuhoto, one of the last, if not the last, of 
 the Maori tohungas, or priest-sorcerers, reputed to be 
 104 years old. He was imprisoned in his whare for 
 four days by the mud, and dug out alive ! He would 
 have been lynched by the Maoris, who believed that 
 his spells (karakias) had caused the eruption, but that his 
 white friends hurried him off to the hospital at Eotorua, 
 where he died in a few days. In times of great excite- 
 ment Maoris sometimes lose the Christianity they are 
 supposed to hold, and go back for the time to their 
 ancient superstitious belief. 
 
 The Wonderland that Remains. 
 
 Eeaders must not think that the catastrophe of the 
 10th June, 1886, has obliterated all that is worth seeing 
 in the Hot Lake Country. Not by any means, for new
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TAR AW ERA. 133 
 
 places of great interest, hitherto unknown, have been 
 opened up since that event. 
 
 Between the Paeroa Kange on the west and the Kain- 
 garoa Plain on the east lies the "Wai-o-tapu (" sacred 
 river") Valley, stretching from Lake Ngahewa to Ohako. 
 Guarded at its northern end by two grim giants, 
 Mounts Maungaongaonga (" the mount of the stinging 
 nettle "), 2764 feet, and Kakaramea, of the same height. 
 This valley abounds in steam holes, fissures, cauldrons, 
 natural hot baths, lakelets, and terraces in an early 
 stage of formation. The view from the summit of 
 Maungaongaonga is indescribably grand. Far down 
 the valley you see Mount Tauhara, the " Lone Lover " 
 of the Maoris, on which there is a splendid (extinct) 
 crater ; beyond, the broad waters of Taupo glisten in the 
 sun ; and in the background Tongariro and Ruapehu, 
 mantled in whitest snow, stand out in relief against 
 the blue sky, while the cloud of steam and smoke 
 from Ngauruhoe, reminds you of Vesuvius in its usual 
 aspect. Small lakes, the Green and the Blue, framed in 
 dark-green foliage, glitter in the valley. The Kaingaroa 
 Plains, fifteen miles wide, and seamed with many 
 valleys, lie on the east, with a mass of wild broken 
 country beyond them, extending as far as the eye can 
 reach. 
 
 The present chief attraction of Wai-o-tapu are the 
 Pink Cauldron on the side of Maungaongaonga, and the 
 White Terrace. The " Pink Cauldron " is a deep basin 
 coated along its sides and bottom with cream-coloured 
 silicious sinter, tinged with green, yellow, and pink 
 hues, the latter predominating. In one corner of the 
 basin a boiling pool gurgles and splutters, while loud 
 thuds, as of a steam hammer at work, are heard at 
 frequent intervals. On the uppermost side of the basin 
 are three geysers, each about six feet in diameter, 
 arranged one above the other, and filled with boiling 
 water of the purest blue, which, as it rises, flows over 
 the beautiful incrustations of pink and white silica 
 which fringes these cups, and is gradually building up 
 a tier of exquisitely designed steps. Close to these
 
 134 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 steps is a semicircular fissure, from which dense 
 volumes of steam arise. Higher up the mountain side 
 a .jet of steam issues from a small hole with a noise 
 like a locomotive-engine letting off high-pressure steam. 
 About four miles from the northern entrance to the 
 valley is the " White Lake," so called from its sides 
 being formed of milk-white silica, which has assumed a 
 variety of fantastic shapes, and presents an indescrib- 
 ably beautiful appearance. Close to this is the White 
 Terrace, the Te Tarata of the future, now in process of 
 formation. In years to come this piece of fairy-like 
 workmanship will compensate for the loss to the world 
 of the original model. At Wairakei also, six miles 
 from Lake Taupo, there are a series of most curious 
 geysers, one of which called the " Crow's Nest " from 
 the peculiar nest-like form of the incrustation deposits, 
 which include sticks, branches, and ferns, all silicated 
 over and massed together, that enclose the funnel of the 
 geyser is the subject of very great interest. The hot 
 sulphurous baths here are of great efficacy. The growth 
 of fruit-trees at this place is extraordinary, the peach 
 and apple bearing luxuriantly after the first year. Most 
 other fruit-trees flourish well, and the Australian gum- 
 tree shoots up faster here even than elsewhere. 
 
 The mountain of Horo-Horo, on the road to Wairakei 
 from Kotorua, has a crag projecting from it resembling 
 a veiled female ; the Maoris called it " Hinemoa 
 turned to stone." Some miles from this is a rock 
 called Dickens's Head from a supposed likeness to the 
 novelist. At Ateamuri the road crosses the Waikato at 
 a romantic spot, and the Huka Falls on this large river 
 are most imposing. Lake Taupo, 241 miles square, 
 affords the painter and the lover of scenery a perfect 
 treat ; but its waters are treacherously stormy, and much 
 care must be exercised in venturing across it or coasting 
 in a boat. In due time the grand tour of the North 
 Island will be through the country shown on map 3., 
 taking first Te Aroha, then Rotorua, next the Terraces, 
 Waiotapu Valley, and of Orakei-Korako on the 
 Waikato Eiver ; the Alum Cave in the same locality ;
 
 ERUPTION OF MOUNT TARAWERA. 135 
 
 then the "Wairakei geysers, the Huka Falls, Joshua's 
 Baths, near Taupo township ; Lake Taupo itself, with 
 Tokaano on its southern shore, where there are 
 numerous geysers and hot springs ; the place where the 
 chief Te Heu Heu, with a great number of his people, 
 were overwhelmed by a landslip; thence along the 
 road by the Poutou Valley, skirting the northern base 
 of Tongariro (which now may be ascended without 
 obstruction by the Maoris) ; by picturesque Lake Eoto 
 Aira, for twenty miles or more along the eastern bases 
 of Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Euapehu; or through 
 most beautiful woodland and park-like plains to 
 Waimarino, a Maori kainga on the line of the Central 
 Trunk Eailway, about midway between Auckland and 
 Wellington, a little over 200 miles from each city. 
 The falls on the Upper Wanganui Eiver are also very 
 well worth a visit, and Mount Egmont (Taranaki) 
 affords one of the most satisfactory Alpine ascents in 
 New Zealand.
 
 136 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT AND THE SETTLEMENT OF THE 
 LAND. 
 
 History of the colony Treaty of Waitangi, 1840 No convict 
 element at any period Several centres of colonization Changes 
 in the constitution Kesponsible self-government granted in 1853 
 Governors of New Zealand from 1840 to 1889 Premiers since 
 1853 Premiers I have known Beneficent Acts of Parliament 
 Colonial debt, how incurred Absolute solvency of the colony 
 proved by statistics Laws regulating sale, lease, and transfer of 
 Crown lands Success of perpetual leasing and of village 
 settlement. 
 
 THE colony of New Zealand can justly boast that it 
 was founded by free men, of their own will, and that it 
 has never been the seat of convict establishments. In 
 the first instance New Zealand was a Crown colony, 
 having been so constituted at the time when the treaty 
 of Waitangi was signed in February, 1840, by the 
 leading Maori chiefs and by Captain Hobson, R.N., on 
 the part of her Majesty Queen Victoria. By this 
 treaty the Magna Charta, so to speak, of the Maori to 
 this day the sovereignty of New Zealand was given 
 up to the Queen, and the right of pre-emption of any 
 lands the natives wished to sell was given to the Crown 
 that is, the de facto government of the colony for the 
 time being. But, in return, all their tribal rights and 
 customs, their land, cattle, and other possessions, were 
 retained by the Maoris, and they became British 
 subjects, with all the privileges attaching to that proud 
 position. The treaty was drafted by Mr. Busby, and 
 fully interpreted by the Rev. Henry Williams. The 
 chief, Tamati Waka Nene, afterwards our faithful ally
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT. 137 
 
 in the wars, was largely instrumental in determining 
 the waverers among the chiefs to sign. Practically the 
 Maoris have never been liable to direct taxation since 
 this treaty, and their lands were by its Art. II. saved 
 from the depredations of unscrupulous speculators In 
 fact, the scrupulous desire of the colonial authorities, 
 all through the history of New Zealand, to carry out 
 this treaty in its integrity, and to specially safeguard 
 the rights of the natives has retarded the settlement of 
 the country. For so long as one adult Maori of the 
 hapu (tribe) withheld his or her signature from the 
 deed of transfer of any land held by the tribe, even 
 though honestly sold and purchased, the white man's 
 'title could not be validated. The tedious delays, 
 repetitions of Maori genealogies, old stories of how this 
 or that piece of land passed, by conquest, inheritance, or 
 communal ownership from hand to hand ; and the cross- 
 swearing, have caused many hundreds of honest settlers 
 to curse the Treaty of Waitangi and the Native Lands 
 Court Act, and some have even given up the intention 
 of settling on native land, in despair of ever obtaining 
 a clear title. The famous treaty was hastily drawn up 
 because of the race between the English and French 
 commanders to plant the flag of their respective 
 countries first in New Zealand, and thus claim it as a 
 colony. 
 
 Of late years the procedures of the Native Lands 
 Courts have been shortened and simplified, and, through 
 interpreters, and their own increased knowledge of the 
 English language and ways, the Maoris have come 
 round to understand what an advantage it is for them 
 to sell or lease their land at a good figure to men who 
 will cultivate it, live upon it, and hire their labour also. 
 I understand that Maoris work well for wages, though 
 not for long at a time. Their railway sub-contracts are 
 also faithfully performed. The Government has been a 
 " paternal " one to the natives. From time to time 
 special Acts of Parliament have been passed, providing 
 for the equitable lease, sale, or transfer of their lands ; 
 for their free education ; their Parliamentary represen-
 
 138 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 tation, medical attendance, food and shelter ; and the 
 Maoris since the last peace have appreciated this 
 kindness. The first Maori war was caused by the 
 misunderstanding on the part of several Maori chiefs 
 (who did not sign the treaty) of the provisions and 
 binding character of that document. But in all their 
 wars of independence it was only a minority of the 
 natives who took up arms against us, the large majority 
 either remaining peaceable, or assisting us actively. 
 The Hau-hau or " Pai-marire " fanatical outbursts were 
 confined to a small district, and soon were suppressed. 
 As was remarked in chapter iii., the Maoris have always 
 behaved honourably in open war, and while the 
 " civilized " French were suffocating Arabs, men, women, 
 and children, in caves in Algeria, the " savage " Maori 
 was exchanging all the courtesies of war with the 
 British who were conquering his country. And now all 
 New Zealand, even the " King " country, is open to the 
 traveller the remark made on p. 38 about the in- 
 accessibility of the latter region only applying to the 
 absence of roads, accommodation, sign-posts, and so on. 
 If New Zealand were to be invaded, I am sure that the 
 Maoris would enrol themselves as soldiers of the colony 
 and fight to the last man for us, with all the bravery of 
 their ancestors. 
 
 The first Governor of New Zealand was Captain 
 William Hobson, a just, humane, and prudent man, who 
 kept faith with white man and Maori alike, and gave 
 the " tone " to some who succeeded him which is so 
 beneficial to the administration of a young and mixed 
 community consisting of dominant and subject races. 
 In 1840 he founded Auckland, and in the following 
 year made it the capital of New Zealand. He died in 
 1842 ; and after Lieut.-Colonel Shortland had carried 
 on the Government for a year, Captain Fitzroy was 
 appointed. After two years he was succeeded by Captain 
 G. Grey (made a K.C.B. in 1848), who in September, 
 1852, had the dignity of his office increased by the 
 abolition of that of Lieutenant-Governor. 
 
 Meantime colonization was going rapidly on from
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT. 139 
 
 four or five different centres. In 1840 Wellington, the 
 present capital, was founded by the New Zealand 
 Company of London. In 1841 New Plymouth and 
 Nelson were commenced. Dunedin and the province 
 of Otago were settled in 1848 by a band of Scottish 
 Presbyterians, and in 1850 Christchurch and the 
 province of Canterbury were founded by a Church of 
 England association. Thus it was that the proverbial 
 Presbyterian ruling element in Dunedin and the Epis- 
 copalian sentiment of Christchurch came about. With 
 the exceptions, however, of a German settlement at 
 Puhoi, near Waiwera, and the Scandinavians at Norse- 
 wood and Dannevirke, all of which are thriving, there 
 is no predominance of either one religion or one 
 nationality in any town or district in the colony. When 
 at Tromso within the arctic circle, this summer (1889), 
 I saw with much pleasure a party of hardy Norsemen 
 ready to go out to New Zealand a change indeed from 
 a winter temperature (the mean average) of 23 to one 
 of 56 ! 
 
 The colonization from four great centres has made 
 New Zealand very different from the Australian 
 colonies, each of which grew from one centre only. 
 This fact also increases the difficulty of governing New 
 Zealand effectively from one point. Decentralization 
 has had its day, and now the tendency is to too great 
 centralization. The reason why so large a salary and 
 allowance, amounting to 7500 per annum, has been 
 hitherto paid to the Governor by a colony so small in 
 population is that, in order to be useful throughout the 
 whole colony, the Governor must visit and stay at all the 
 four " capitals " during his term of office, although his 
 permanent official residence is in Wellington. 
 
 Up to the year 1853 New Zealand remained a Crown 
 colony. In that year responsible government in the shape 
 of a popular Constitution, on a plan drawn up by Sir 
 George Grey and adopted by the Imperial Government 
 in 1852, was granted to New Zealand. The Governor, 
 appointed by the Queen for five years ; a Legislative 
 Council composed of members nominated for life by the
 
 140 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Crown ; and a House of Representatives elected by the 
 people on a liberal franchise for five years constituted 
 the legislature of the colony. Power was given to the 
 legislature to make laws, to raise loans, to levy duties 
 and impose taxes, and to modify the constitution of the 
 colony. New Zealand was divided into six, afterwards 
 nine, provinces : in the North Island the provinces of 
 Auckland, Hawke's Bay, Taranaki, and Wellington ; 
 in the Middle Island the Provinces of Nelson, Marl- 
 borough, Westland, Canterbury, and Otago. Each 
 province was administered by an elective super- 
 intendent and an elective council ; and each province 
 sent a certain number of representatives to the Colonial 
 Parliament. Twenty years of this mode of govern- 
 ment sufficiently proved its impracticability, when 
 such hotly disputed subjects as land endowments, the 
 construction of railways, roads, and bridges, and the 
 apportionment of the money raised at home, came under 
 discussion. Each province tried to grasp the largest 
 share of the good things dealt out by the central 
 colonial Government. After several years' discussion 
 a sweeping reform was carried out in 1875, whereby 
 the whole Provincial System of administration was 
 abolished, and the colony was divided into sixty-three 
 counties, each provided with an elective county council 
 armed with full powers of local self-government, 
 including rating. From time to time enlarged powers 
 have been granted by the Imperial Government to the 
 New Zealand Parliament ; in fact, the whole tendency 
 of imperial legislation, as it affects this colony, for 
 the past thirty years, has been to give the colony 
 absolute self-government in its domestic matters. The 
 Governor has the power of assenting to or withholding 
 assent from the Acts passed by the colonial legislature, 
 or he can "reserve them for her Majesty's will and 
 pleasure." 
 
 Two facts in the parliamentary history of New 
 Zealand speak well for the right-mindedness, loyalty, 
 and common sense of its legislators : first, there has 
 never been in New Zealand a " dead-lock " between the
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT. 141 
 
 two Houses of Parliament, as in several of the Aus- 
 tralian colonies ; and, second, that out of more than 
 two thousand Acts passed in New Zealand there have 
 not been more than six instances of disallowance (veto) 
 by the Queen. 
 
 It may be of interest here to enumerate in chrono- 
 logical order the excellent Governors who have filled 
 the New Zealand appointment now a first-class 
 governorship at the Colonial Office from the death 
 of Captain Hobson in 1842 to the present time, 
 omitting only the temporary administrators. In the 
 absence or resignation of the Governor the administra- 
 tion of his functions devolves upon the Chief Justice 
 of the Supreme Court. The list is as follows : Captain 
 Fitzroy ; Sir George Grey ; Colonel T. Gore Browne ; Sir 
 George Grey (second term) ; Sir G. F. Bowen ; Sir James 
 Fergusson, Bart. ; The Marquis of Normanby ; Sir 
 Hercules Eobinson ; Sir Arthur Gordon ; Sir W. F. D. 
 Jervois ; Lord Onslow. These have been all able men, 
 and as a rule the rank that New Zealand holds in the 
 classification of colonial governorships entitles it to 
 obtain the services of experienced administrators. 
 
 In New Zealand great legislative experiments are 
 being tried and worked out which are carefully watched 
 by both political parties at home, and by the Americans 
 and foreigners who visit the country. Parliaments are 
 triennial ; all members are paid ; practically manhood 
 suffrage exists ; petitions to Parliament and objections 
 to parliamentary elections have a careful consideration 
 accorded them ; the conduct of Government officials and 
 of public men is freely ventilated by the press ; and 
 on the whole the government of New Zealand, with all 
 its faults, comes as near as may be to the democratic 
 ideal of a " government by the people and for the 
 people." At the present time, owing to the heavy 
 burden of interest payable on the colonial debt 
 (35,196,000 on March 31, 1888), large reductions 
 are being made in all branches of the Government. 
 The Governor's salary is reduced to 5000 ; the 
 salaries of Cabinet ministers are largely reduced ; the
 
 142 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 number of representatives is decreased from 95 to 74, 
 thereby saving twenty-one honoraria of 210 each paid 
 to members ; and the civil service has been so cut 
 down that in the executive departments of Government 
 the saving already effected amounts to 233,000. In 
 chapter ix. I have summarised briefly the financial 
 and economical position of the colony, and need not 
 further enlarge on this important subject. These 
 Radical principles of representative popular govern- 
 ment above enumerated seem to tend to frequent 
 changes of the Ministry the real Government'of New 
 Zealand. In my comparatively short residence in the 
 colony I have witnessed the entrance and exit of six 
 ministries (in nine years), each change being accom- 
 panied with a certain amount of disturbance in the 
 steady working of the public services, and a variation of 
 the financial policy of the preceding Cabinet, so far 
 as regards the mode of raising money. The incidence 
 of taxation is, of course, the " burning question " of the 
 last nineteen years, for at the present time the six 
 hundred thousand white people of New Zealand have 
 to pay the enormous interest, annually, of the sum of 
 1,767,200 at least, not having the legerdemain skill 
 of Sir Julius Vogel, K.C.M.G., in figures, I cannot make 
 it less, after a diligent study of all the latest statements 
 and statistics. But, from what has been stated above, 
 the reader will understand that the Government is 
 manfully economising in every possible way, and so 
 good is the credit of the colony in the Home money 
 market that the last (1888) four per cent, loan of two 
 millions was subscribed for four times over. 
 
 In chapter ix. I have clearly stated the process, 
 reasons, or excuses for, and results of, the " borrowing 
 policy ; " and sketched candidly the present position 
 and future prospects of New Zealand. 
 
 On looking over the list of Premiers and Ministers 
 since 1853, I have been struck with the fact that even 
 this changeful Parliament of colonists chooses the same 
 men, over and over again, to lead them and guide them. 
 I consider it a high testimony to their character and
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT. 143 
 
 ability. As a chronological table would occupy too 
 much space, I will merely enumerate the names of the 
 premiers since 1856, when Mr. Henry Sewell took 
 office on the 7th of May. On the 20th of May he was 
 succeeded by my friend Sir William Fox, who has four 
 times served his country most ably in this responsible 
 position. Next in order comes Sir E. W. Stafford, who 
 has thrice been premier; next Alfred Domett, author 
 of that charming poem " Ranolf and Amohia;" Sir 
 Frederick Whitaker, whose honourable sobriquet is 
 " the Nestor of politics," twice premier ; Sir Frederick 
 A. Weld, whose successful career as governor of various 
 colonies (Tasmania, Straits Settlements, &c.) is well 
 known ; G. M. Waterhouse, Esq., who bears a striking 
 facial resemblance to Charles Kingsley ; Sir Julius 
 Vogel, the celebrated financier, twice ; Daniel Pollen, 
 Esq. ; Sir George Grey, K.C.B. ; Sir John Hall ; Sir 
 Robert Stout, a clever advocate, the head of the colonial 
 bar, twice ; and Sir Harry Atkinson, who Jive times 
 has been chosen premier, and is now (1889) holding 
 that arduous position. I have sometimes mentally 
 compared him to Cincinnatus, for the honourable 
 gentleman is an ardent agriculturist and raiser of 
 choice breeds of fowls and ducks in the sylvan glades 
 and breezy downs of Taranaki. 
 
 The five premiers whom I have the honour of knowing 
 personally are men of vigorous intellect, of learning and 
 culture, of knowledge of men and statecraft, frank yet 
 dignified in bearing, courteous in demeanour, having 
 " fads " no doubt, but not injurious ones. There is much 
 to be said, e.g., for Sir Harry Atkinson's " fad " of national 
 insurance, and for Sir George Grey's "fad" of land nation- 
 alization ; and all these five are men who would not only 
 do credit to the British Houses of Parliament, either as 
 Peers or Commons, but even to the Imperial Ministry. 
 
 A Cabinet minister in New Zealand, as in other free 
 colonies, must learn to be pachydermatous, yet con- 
 ciliatory. While in office everyone may worry them 
 with letters, petitions, interviews, and so forth, while 
 the opposition newspapers continually accuse them of
 
 144 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 idling, pleasuring at the country's expense, nepotism, 
 promise-breaking, bribing partisans, voting themselves 
 extra allowances, and all that sort of electioneering 
 calumny. I used to feel hurt sometimes, when I knew 
 for a fact that none of these gentlemen had done these 
 things, nor had they enriched but rather impoverished 
 themselves by their tenure of high office. Out of those 
 five premiers, one has immortalized his name by the 
 magnificent gift of a library of rare literary gems 
 to the city of Auckland ; another has employed for 
 many years his rare legal acumen to draw up with 
 accuracy wise, just, and beneficent Acts of Parliament ; 
 and a third has proved himself the most economical 
 minister the colony ever had. 
 
 Quite recently the entire colony has been divided into 
 equal electoral districts, and a modification of the Hare 
 system of cumulative voting is to be introduced another 
 important experiment in Representative Government. 
 
 And. now, bidding adieu to colonial politics, I will 
 come to the chief object of this chapter, which is to give 
 the intending immigrant some idea of the land laws 
 of New Zealand, and of the kind of land that he will 
 find still unappropriated. 
 
 The colony is filling .up more slowly since the public 
 money used in granting free or assisted passages came 
 to an end. But already about one in every five of the 
 adult males of New Zealand occupy and work land. 
 The number of holdings of one acre and upwards in 
 February, 1888, was 34,743. Of land cultivated or 
 broken up ready for cultivation there are twelve acres for 
 each person (man, woman and child) in the colony. In 
 Great Britain and Ireland the proportion is not quite 
 1 acres per head. Upwards of thirty- three million 
 acres of land belonging to the Crown are still unsold 
 in the colony. Of these acres fourteen millions are 
 open fern or grass land, ten millions forest, and nine 
 million barren mountain-tops, lakes, and worthless 
 country. The Crown lands of the colony are ad- 
 ministered under two laws called "The Land Act, 
 1885," and the " The Land Act Amendment Act, 1887."
 
 SELF- VERNMENT. 145 
 
 The large tracts still owned by the Maoris, however, 
 are dealt with under another law, " The Native Lands 
 Act, 1888," whereby every precaution possible is pro- 
 vided to cheapen and facilitate the sale, lease, or 
 transfer of native land, and to establish firmly the 
 title of the purchaser. In no country in the world is 
 the transfer and registration of land more inexpensive 
 and complete than in New Zealand. Oh that we had 
 such a state of things in England, where a simple lease 
 of a house costs 10 ! There are Crown Lands Offices 
 in the following thirteen cities and towns in New 
 Zealand (possibly others may have been opened since 
 these lines were written) : Auckland, Tauranga, Gis- 
 borne, Napier, New Plymouth, Patea, Wellington 
 (North Island), Nelson, Blenheim, Christchurch, Hoki- 
 tika, Dunedin, and Invercargill (Middle Island). Crown 
 lands are divided into three classes : 
 
 1. Town and village lands, being the sites heretofore 
 reserved or which shall be hereafter reserved for towns 
 and villages. 
 
 2. Suburban lands in the vicinity of the above. 
 
 3. Rural lands, comprising all other land, whether 
 forest, pastoral, or agricultural, except mining ground. 
 
 These lands can be purchased direct from the Crown, 
 thus rendering all swindles by land agents either at 
 home or in the colony impossible. They are sold by 
 public auction from time to time, as the demand varies, 
 or on application by intending purchasers at the Land 
 Office of the district, at prices varying from five to forty 
 shillings per acre, according to one or other of the 
 following plans : 
 
 I. Immediate and Full Cash Payment at the " upset 
 price," thus securing the freehold of the land without 
 any further liability. The area purchaseable by one 
 adult is wisely restricted by law to 640 acres of first- 
 class or 2000 acres of second-class land, in order to 
 discourage the formation of large estates belonging to 
 one individual. Of course companies can purchase to 
 a larger amount. 
 
 II. The Deferred Payment System, (area not more 
 
 L
 
 146 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 than 320 acres per head). Suburban lands are sold 
 at 4 10s. per acre ; rural lands at not less than 1 
 per acre, except in certain parts of the colony, where the 
 price may be less. The payments are made in equal 
 instalments every six months, and are spread over a 
 period of five years for suburban and ten years for 
 rural land. The selector binds himself to reside on the 
 land for at least six years, and to fence and cultivate 
 a certain amount of ground each year. If more than 
 one person applies for the same land on the same day 
 it is put up for competition by tender, limited to the 
 applicants. Supposing a piece of rural land is priced 
 at 1 per acre, the purchaser pays only one shilling 
 every six months for ten years, at the end of which 
 time the freehold of the land becomes his own. An- 
 other convenient arrangement is provided by the 
 Government: any purchaser under this system who 
 has paid his two first instalments, and has complied 
 with all the conditions of cultivation, may have the 
 amount of the unpaid instalments capitalized, at 
 the then value of an annuity of the same amount 
 as the payments then due to complete the purchase. 
 The settler then begins to pay semi-annually, instead 
 of the original half-yearly instalment of the purchase 
 money a sum which is fixed at five per cent, upon that 
 capitalized amount until the whole of the balance is 
 paid to the Government. 
 
 III. Perpetual Leasing. To a bond-fide occupier lands 
 in certain districts are leased at a fixed rental of five per 
 cent, on the capital value, which is usually 1 per acre, 
 for thirty years, with right of renewal for twenty-one 
 years, and so on for ever. The area of land per head 
 leased in this way is restricted to 640 acres. The first 
 lessee has the right of purchase after six and within 
 twelve years if he elects to buy. At the end of the 
 first lease, should the occupier wish to sell the lease to 
 anyone, the incoming tenant is bound by law to pay 
 the full value of all improvements made on the estate 
 by the first lessee. He is also bound to carry out the 
 original conditions made by the Government. By the
 
 SELF-GOVERNMENT. 147 
 
 Act of 1877 the freehold of land held in this way may 
 be acquired on certain easy terms. This is the first 
 practical attempt that I am acquainted with towards 
 land nationalization. 
 
 IV. The Homestead System. This method of taking 
 up land is specially adapted for poor settlers. No 
 payment is required except the cost of survey. On the 
 completion of the conditions, namely, the erection of a 
 house, and the cultivation of one-third of all his holding 
 if open land, or one-fifth if bush land, the settler will 
 receive his freehold and title from the Crown. Each 
 person of eighteen years of age may take up fifty to 
 seventy-five acres, and if under eighteen years, twenty to 
 thirty acres. It is possible for a man and his family 
 (the wife not being eligible as a selector) to take up as 
 much as 200 acres of good open land and work it so as 
 to make a decent living out of it in three or four 
 years. 
 
 V. The Village Settlement Act provides that any 
 person can select fifty acres of land in a particular 
 locality reserved for a village settlement, on perpetual 
 lease, with right of purchase. The rental charged is five 
 per cent, on the purchasing price. The great advantage is 
 that a small proprietor can find work for wages among his 
 neighbours, and can on his leisure days be constantly 
 improving his own farm. 
 
 VI. Special Settlements. Any number of persons, 
 not less than twenty-five, of approved character, may 
 obtain the privilege of selecting a large block of land, 
 subject to all the conditions of deferred payment, or 
 perpetual lease, as the case may be, on which they 
 can all settle adjacent to each other. Many flourishing 
 villages have thus been formed, in the North Island 
 especially, some by Englishmen of the same religious 
 denomination (Port Albert), some by Germans (Puhoi), 
 some by Scandinavians (Norsewood). And it has been 
 found that those special settlements flourish best 
 where public-houses have been religiously excluded 
 from the block. Some, it is true, have failed, because 
 of the poverty of the land selected, or because of 
 
 L 2
 
 148 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 internal squabbles, or of unsuitability of some of the 
 settlers for farming or agricultural work. But the 
 scheme of every one of these six modes of land settle- 
 ment is well thought out and thoroughly workable, 
 being fair to both buyer and seller, and safeguarded 
 against abuse by the capitalist. 
 
 VII. Small Grazing Euns, not exceeding 5000 
 acres. These are let from time to time by public 
 auction for a term of twenty-one years, with right of re- 
 newal for a second term of same length, at an upset price 
 of 2 per cent, on the capital value. Kecent sales (1888) 
 realised from threepence to one shilling and eightpence 
 per acre, annual rental. The lessee has the exclusive right 
 of the natural pasturage, and may cultivate any or all 
 of the area leased. Full valuation for improvements is 
 allowed to the tenant at the end of each lease. 
 
 VIII. Pastoral Kuns. These are let by auction on 
 leases for terms not exceeding twenty-one years, in large 
 areas of 5000 acres and upwards. The average rental 
 is about fourpence per acre per annum. Any number 
 of runs may be leased by one person or by a company. 
 Valuation to an amount not exceeding three years' 
 rental is allowed to the outgoing tenant for any im- 
 provements he may have made. In the Middle Island 
 about eleven million acres of natural pasturage are 
 leased in this way. 
 
 Special provisions are made by the laws of the colony 
 for agricultural leases of land containing minerals, and 
 for gold-mining or Crown lands. 
 
 Success in New Zealand, as I have hinted in the 
 opening chapter, as indeed everywhere else in the 
 colonies, depends on the character of the immigrant 
 and the right choice of his place of settlement. No 
 other colony can show a greater number of families 
 who by steady industry, thrift, honesty, and perse- 
 verance have raised themselves from poverty to com- 
 fort or even wealth. There is hope, therefore, for all 
 immigrants who can and will diligently and intelli- 
 gently work the land; but let the foolish idea that 
 anyone can without previous training become a sue-
 
 SELF- O VERNMENT. 149 
 
 cessful farmer be dismissed from our minds. The 
 home-bred agriculturist is more likely to succeed in 
 New Zealand at farming than he who has previously 
 followed a different trade or occupation. The excel- 
 lence of Systems III., IV., and V., consists in the 
 economy of capital, and the wise expenditure of labour 
 by the humblest, poorest, and least educated of settlers. 
 Many of these men have far surpassed Jesse Collings's 
 ideal of " three acres and a cow " by the acquisition, 
 entirely through their own toil, of well-improved farms 
 of from 200 to 400 acres, a score or two of cows, 
 numerous sheep, orchards, vegetable gardens, and a 
 comfortable frame-house. And, what is most important 
 of all, the settler has a ready sale for. his lambs, sheep, 
 and agricultural produce, as will be seen by the state- 
 ment in chapter x. Every year more lines of road and 
 rail are being opened up from the interior to the coast, 
 and from the large towns into the country. At the 
 end of March, 1888, seventeen hundred and seventy 
 miles of railway were open and 8478 miles of road in 
 the colony. By sea the communication between ports 
 is frequent and regular, but the freights are too high for 
 the small farmer because the coast of New Zealand is 
 very dangerous and the Union Steamship Company 
 have practically extinguished all competitipn. We 
 must acknowledge, however, that no steamship company 
 has done as much as the Union Company to develop 
 and extend the coastal and inter-colonial trading 
 facilities of New Zealand.
 
 150 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Their growth Nourished on loans Keaction and commercial 
 depression Improving prospects and returning prosperity 
 Churches Education : Primary, Secondary, and University 
 New Zealand University Its statutes, meetings, &c. Auckland 
 University College Technical education Otago Medical School 
 Lincoln School of Agriculture The Press of New Zealand 
 Hospitals, refuges, asylums Police, gaols, public works, post- 
 office departments Government Insurance Government trus- 
 tees, assignees in bankruptcy Friendly and Building societies 
 Sailors' Homes and Rests. 
 
 THE multiplication and growth of the public works 
 and institutions of New Zealand, using the word 
 " institutions " in its widest or American sense, have 
 been so rapid since the inauguration by Sir Julius 
 Vogel, in 1870, of the daring 'public works and 
 immigration policy ' as to excite the apprehension of 
 thoughtful colonists, that the country was " going 
 ahead" too fast. The policy of developing a new 
 country on borrowed capital, apparently imitated by 
 this astute but too sanguine financier from the example 
 of the United States and the South American republics 
 is a dangerous one. As long as the public money was 
 circulated freely the colony was prosperous, but this 
 prosperity resembles that of the " remittance men " 
 described in chapter xi., a seeming and temporary, 
 rather than a real and permanent prosperity. When 
 the expenditure of the loans so freely spent on the 
 public works of the Government came to an end, 
 the whole of New Zealand felt the pinch, and a state 
 of commercial depression set in about the year 1885, 
 which is only now passing off.
 
 PUBLIC WOEKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 151 
 
 Each of the last four ministries of the colony has 
 come into office pledged to " economy and retrench- 
 ment," but Sir H. Atkinson's ministry alone has been 
 successful in grappling with these Herculean and 
 unpopular labours. The stoppage of all money help 
 from the Government to immigrants, the imposition of 
 a direct tax (the property tax) ; the cessation of half- 
 finished works, throwing out of employment hundreds 
 of workmen, and the dismissal of numerous officials, 
 came upon the community almost simultaneously witli 
 a falling-off of exports, a diminished production of gold 
 from the mines, and a lessened influx of tourists, the 
 travelling world having heard that the great attrac- 
 tion of New Zealand, the Sinter Terraces, had been 
 destroyed (chapter vii.). 
 
 The problem of how 600,000 people are to pay the 
 annual interest and sinking fund due on a debt of 
 over 35,000,000, while continuing in a state of 
 efficiency an overgrown civil service of which the 
 costly Education Department is really a branch, and 
 the payment of representatives in Parliament an off- 
 shoot is one that taxes severely the ingenuity of our 
 colonial Chancellors of the Exchequer. Doubtless, on 
 reviewing the colony's history, it is to be regretted that 
 this huge borrowing was not delayed until, by natural 
 and not artificial processes, such as free immigration, 
 the population had increased to four or five times its 
 present number, so that these financial burdens would 
 have been more easily borne, being distributed over a 
 larger number of tax -payers. But those who accuse 
 New Zealand of having not only borrowed recklessly 
 but spent extravagantly upon unremunerative or un- 
 necessary works and there are many such critics at 
 home I find must remember that (1) more than 
 twenty-four and a half millions have been spent on 
 public works of a permanent value, which have greatly 
 improved and opened up for settlement the interior of 
 the colony; (2) that since 1870 large numbers of 
 people have been attracted to the country, many of 
 whom have become useful colonists ; and (3) the
 
 152 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 present inhabitants of a young country are now 
 enjoying all the conveniences of the most advanced 
 civilization in some matters, such as cheap telephones, 
 surpassing the mother country. In order to remove 
 the too prevalent but erroneous impression in England 
 that New Zealand is hopelessly sunk in debt, I have 
 collected the following facts, which, being official, are 
 absolutely correct, and, when connected with the 
 chapter on productions and industries (chapter x.), 
 shou-ld go far towards establishing a confidence in the 
 solvency of this vigorous colony. 
 
 1. The surplus assets over all liabilities of all public 
 and private property in New Zealand amounted in 
 May, 1887, to no less than 128,803,635. 
 
 2. With the exception of France and Switzerland, 
 no country in the world can show so large a proportion 
 of savings bank depositors to the general population as 
 New Zealand, viz., one in six. This fact shows that 
 there is a thrift among the colonists which one would 
 not have expected to find among a people of such 
 wasteful habits as regards food, and so lavish as regards 
 expenditure on amusements. At the end of March, 
 1888, after three years of great commercial depres- 
 sion, the moneys deposited in the Government and 
 seven other savings banks amounted to no less than 
 2,462,304, standing to the credit of 99,277 depositors. 
 The stability of the population is shown by the fact 
 that there are 80,527 owners of land in the colony. 
 
 3. The stern but necessary reductions in the Govern- 
 ment offices are keeping down the cost while not 
 diminishing the efficiency of the collection of the 
 public revenue. 
 
 4. The exports of the colony, by the latest returns, 
 show a substantial increase. 
 
 5. Capital is flowing into the colony from Australia, 
 an instance of which is the recent purchase by a 
 syndicate, largely composed of Australians, of all the 
 Kauri forests, mills, and machinery in the North 
 Island. 
 
 6. The surplus of revenue over expenditure for the
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 153 
 
 past financial year (1888-9), shows an increase of no 
 less than 453,000. 
 
 7. The land sales are greatly improved, 330,817 
 acres having been purchased by 1893 persons on one 
 or other of the plans described in chapter viii. during 
 the year ending March, 1889. 
 
 The reader, then, or his friends who may chance to 
 hold New Zealand bonds need not fear either the loss 
 of principal or the suspension of payment of interest. 
 
 The following brief account of the most important 
 public works, institutions, and societies of New Zealand 
 must be premised by stating that the latest complete 
 census of the colony is that of 1886 ; that the statistics 
 for 1888 and 1889 are not yet available; and that 
 there are many smaller institutions and societies useful 
 to the colony which cannot be included for want of 
 space. 
 
 1. Religion. 
 
 In New Zealand, there being no connection between 
 Church and State, and no one religious body having 
 any social or political pre-eminence over another, one 
 fruitful element of discord in the old country does not 
 exist in the new. The very few endowments that exist 
 have been presented by the early native converts to 
 the missionaries, or acquired by the latter for their 
 churches by subscription. The non-existence of either 
 Establishment or State endowment seems to give 
 exactly that stimulus to the free Church of England 
 in New Zealand which is lacking in many quarters 
 at Home. The new-comer notices an activity and 
 aggressiveness about its organization, a freshness and 
 vigour in its preaching, and a personal knowledge and 
 regard existing between clergyman and congregation, 
 that are not by any means universal in England. 
 
 By the latest religious census, that of 1886, it 
 appeared that there were then in New Zealand 1499 
 buildings open for public worship, with accommodation 
 for over 256,000 persons, being an increase of 385 on
 
 154 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 the number of similar buildings in 1881. Out of the 
 entire population of 578,482 persons, exclusive of 
 Maoris, there were 
 
 Protestants . . . 461,340 
 
 Roman Catholics . 80,715 
 
 Of no denomination . 9 , 888 
 
 Jews and others . . 6,650 
 
 Objected to state their religion 19,889 
 
 Analyzing the first division of the foregoing official 
 classification (which is singularly expressed), we find 
 under the term " Protestants " 
 
 Church of England 229,757 
 
 Presbyterians 130,643 
 
 Wesleyan and other Methodists . . . 45,164 
 
 Baptists, Congregationalists, Salvation Army,) ,-K 77^ 
 
 and other denominations . . . f ' 
 
 The number of children attending Sunday-schools 
 was found to be 99,884, an increase of 20,993 over the 
 attendance in 1881. 
 
 I leave readers to draw their own conclusions from 
 these official figures. I have no means of ascertaining 
 how the different denominations have varied in numbers 
 since 1886, the next census being not due till 1891. 
 
 There is much Christian work being done by all 
 denominations in New Zealand. The laity make 
 much personal sacrifice to maintain the edifices and 
 services of their churches, and to evangelize rather 
 than proselytize the community at large, among whom 
 a certain amount of combative atheism and a large 
 amount of indifference to religion exist. The stipends 
 of clergymen and ministers are very moderate, and 
 are raised with some difficulty in unprosperous times. 
 Their incomes are derived from pew rents, grants from 
 missionary societies at home, small endowments, and 
 voluntary subscriptions. A bishop's income rarely 
 exceeds 900, a clergyman's would average 300, and 
 a curate's 120. My clerical readers must not take 
 these rough estimates as " gospel," but as approximations 
 to the truth.
 
 PUBLIC WOEKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 155 
 
 It is very pleasing to one who has witnessed some- 
 thing of inter-sectarian bitterness (so utterly opposed 
 to the spirit of Christ's teaching) in old England, to 
 see, in this free country, that in settlements where 
 no one religious body is strong enough to support a 
 resident minister, a hall or schoolroom is hired and 
 shared by the Episcopalians, Wesleyans, Presbyterians, 
 and others, who hold their services in rotation, in 
 perfect harmony, by mutual arrangement. 
 
 In Christchurch, founded by the Church of England 
 Association in 1850, there is a preponderance of 
 Episcopalians; and in Dunedin, first established by 
 Presbyterians, there is a predominating element of that 
 creed ; but in Wellington, Auckland, Nelson, and the 
 other large towns, sects are pretty equally mixed. 
 Albertland, ninety miles north of Auckland, was founded 
 by Congregationalists, and Eoman Catholics pervade 
 the Pensioner settlement of Howick. 
 
 Most of the places of worship are built of wood, but 
 Christchurch boasts of a fine stone Anglican cathedral, 
 and Dunedin of her stone Presbyterian churches. 
 Notwithstanding the commercial depression having 
 temporarily limited the power of giving, there has 
 been a steady increase, since the last census, of places of 
 worship and of evangelistic services in halls and school- 
 rooms. The missions among the Maoris are heartily 
 maintained, and, now that the whole body of natives 
 are Christianized, there is no difficulty in supplying 
 them with trained native clergymen and evangelists. 
 
 The Church of England in New Zealand takes the 
 lead, naturally enough, in numbers, and in influence, 
 throughout all the provincial districts, except Otago 
 and Southland. It is free, as I have stated, from all 
 State control, and has the advantage of an excellent 
 working Constitution, mainly drawn up by that great 
 and good man, George Augustus Selwyn, first Bishop 
 of New Zealand, whose memory is to the present hour 
 very dearly cherished. 
 
 After the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland, 
 that church was remodelled on the plan of this very
 
 156 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Constitution, in its main principles the greatest respect 
 that could be shown to it. The General Synod of the 
 Episcopal Church is the ruling body ; and each diocese 
 has its diocesan synod, presided over by the Bishop of 
 that diocese. The Diocesan Synods meet once a year, 
 the General Synod once in three years, taking the 
 principal cities in rotation. Standing committees con- 
 duct the business that may accrue between the synodal 
 meetings. So well do these committees attend to their 
 business, and so admirably is the voting power dis- 
 tributed among the three orders of the Church 
 bishops, clergy, and laity that never since the first 
 meeting of the General Synod in Wellington, March 9th, 
 1859, has any serious discord or quarrel occurred in 
 this branch of the Church of England. The memor- 
 able date of the adoption of this constitution at Auck- 
 land was June 13th, 1857. Presided over by hard- 
 working bishops, on whom much of the spirit of Sehvyn 
 has fallen (as in the case of our Bishop Cowie of Auck- 
 land) ; officered by a clergy filled with a zeal almost 
 free from Bitualism ; and filled with lay members who 
 liberally respond to the calls made upon them; the 
 Church of England in New Zealand is a power for good 
 in the land. All the other Protestant denominations 
 are active and doing much good, and it behoves them 
 to be aggressive in the new country, for new-comers too 
 often not only desert their home Church, whatever it 
 may be, but also throw aside all external observances 
 of religion, and sometimes drift away into absolute 
 indifference, or into atheism, if a helping hand is not 
 extended to them by the churches. 
 
 2. Education. 
 
 The educational system, which is estimated to cost 
 the colonists not less than 400,000 per annum, is the 
 pride of the average New Zealander. It is free, com- 
 pulsory, and absolutely secular. The burden of supply- 
 ing free Primary education to 110,000 children of school 
 age seven to thirteen scattered over a hundred
 
 PUBLIC WOEKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 157 
 
 thousand square miles of land, falls upon a population 
 rather less than that of Liverpool and Birkenhead, and 
 is indeed heavy. For the authorities, in their zeal to 
 carry out the Act, have built " full " or " half-time " 
 schools in every place, however remote, where there are 
 a dozen settlers or so. While the English tax-payer 
 pays one shilling and eightpence every year for public 
 education (not absolutely free in England) the New 
 Zealander pays no less than eleven shillings and 
 sixpence. The principle of popular control over the 
 schools is carried out thus. In each city, town, or 
 country district, a School Committee is elected annually 
 by those persons who are on the electoral roll. This 
 Committee manages all the business of the schools in 
 its district, hears complaints, supervises the teacher, 
 but has no power either to appoint or remove him. 
 This power, along with the regulation of the course of 
 study, school-books, furniture, pay, appointment, re- 
 moval, or censure of teachers, is reserved for the School 
 Board of the province, to which each School Committee 
 sends a delegate. Representatives of the higher edu- 
 cational institutions have also seats on these School 
 Boards, which have permanent secretaries, and appoint 
 the Inspectors of schools. The head of the whole 
 department is the Minister of Education. 
 
 The teachers in the Primary schools are carefully 
 selected, according to merit, by the boards from men 
 and women who (1) have had large experience at home 
 and have a university degree ; (2) or who have passed 
 creditably through the training colleges of the colony ; 
 or (3) who have taken the B.A. degree of the New 
 Zealand University. The four standards for examination 
 in the primary schools are similar to those of the 
 Education Code of Great Britain ; and the teaching is 
 thorough, for payment by results forms the larger part 
 of the teachers' salary. In 1887 there were 1093 
 primary schools, with 110,919 pupils on the rolls, the 
 mean average number attending each school being 82. 
 The number of children on the rolls had increased over 
 that of 1886 by 4591, in a larger proportion than the
 
 158 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 increase in the population during the year. The actual 
 daily average attendance during the fourth quarter of 
 the year 1887 was 89,589 children. There were also 
 13,437 children attending private and denominational 
 elementary schools. Counting in the latter we find 
 that New Zealand possesses one school for every 470 
 inhabitants, which is the largest proportion of any 
 nation in the world, France coming near it with 
 one school to 500 inhabitants. The fact that young 
 Australia and young New Zealand are well educated 
 is beginning to strike travellers. Out of 10,000 
 children, in any part of the Australian colonies, it is 
 found that 9481 can read, and 8535 can write and read, 
 showing that colonial parents freely avail themselves 
 of the free schools. The only charge is one shilling 
 per quarter for school requisites, and even this is 
 remitted where poverty is proved to the board's satis- 
 faction. The figures relating to New Zealand abun- 
 dantly show the appreciation by the New Zealand 
 parent of the present system of education. 
 
 But here let me say as a paterfamilias, and as a sincere 
 well-wisher to New Zealand, that in my humble opinion 
 the framers of the Education Act have made too much 
 of the so-called "religious difficulty," in absolutely 
 excluding not only the simple reading of the Bible 
 without note or comment, but also even hymns, prayer, 
 or any form of recognition of the Deity from the public 
 schools. I cannot, for the life of me, see why these 
 simple and comprehensive elements of worship the 
 prayer or hymn being of course so drawn as to contain 
 no disputed doctrinal teaching such as are used daily 
 in Great Britain, most of the United States, Ireland, 
 and New South Wales I cannot understand, I repeat, 
 how or why this procedure should .be stigmatised as 
 " denominational endowment," or " teaching religion at 
 the expense of the State." After all, in training a 
 young nation, it should be remembered that it is 
 " righteousness," not mere education, that " exalteth a 
 nation ; " and that education, properly conducted, may 
 be made the handmaid of righteousness. That the
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 159 
 
 heart and intellect of man require the moral teaching 
 and Divine truths of the Bible to preserve him from 
 degradation, the facts of colonial life (as of life, indeed, 
 everywhere) abundantly testify. The " larrikinism " 
 commented upon in chapter xi. might have been 
 checked in its origin had the Bible been read in the 
 Primary schools from their first start. 
 
 Proceeding, after this digression, step by step higher 
 in public education, we come to the Secondary schools, 
 called " Grammar schools," " High schools," or Colleges, 
 all of which, while State aided by money grants, or 
 State-endowed by lands, charge moderate fees to parents, 
 in addition. In 1887 these schools numbered twenty- 
 two, teaching 2242 pupils. From my son's experience 
 I can bear witness that the curriculum and teaching 
 of one of these, the Auckland College and Grammar 
 School (Headmaster, C. F. Bourne, Esq., M.A.), are fully 
 equal to what exist in similar schools in England. The 
 fees there are only eight to ten guineas per annum. 
 School text-books are, naturally, more costly about 
 fifteen to twenty-five per cent. than at home. 
 
 Next come the University Colleges, of which there are 
 three, namely, Auckland University College, Canterbury 
 College, at Christchurch, and the Otago University, at 
 Dunedin, all affiliated to the New Zealand University. 
 A movement is on foot to establish a Wellington Uni- 
 versity College, so that each of the four great centres 
 may have this higher education brought into their 
 midst, but the pressing necessity for economy prevents 
 the present Government from granting the money for 
 it. These Colleges are teaching, not degree-granting 
 institutions, and are governed by Councils, partly 
 nominated by the Government, and partly representative 
 of other educational bodies. The College Calendars 
 of 1888 showed that 580 students, of whom 266 had 
 matriculated, were attending these three colleges. 
 
 The apex of the educational pyramid is formed by 
 the New Zealand University, founded in 1870, and 
 empowered by Koyal Charter, in 1876, to grant degrees 
 in all branches of knowledge. I find that little is
 
 1*50 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 known of this promising institution in England, so will 
 give a few details. The Constitution of this University, 
 its courses of study, examinations, and council, are all 
 modelled upon those of the University of London. Its 
 governing body, the Senate, composed of some of the 
 most eminent men in the colony, meets annually in 
 some city where higher education is cultivated ; and are 
 cordially welcomed wherever the reunion is held. 
 Every meeting of the Senate is followed by an in- 
 creased impetus given to the educational resources of 
 the district where it has met. 
 
 All degrees of this university are open to women as 
 well as men. The special adaptation of its rules to 
 colonial requirements is exemplified by the following 
 admirable provision for wage-earning students made 
 in chapter vi. of the Statutes : " Any student who is 
 engaged in acquiring a profession or trade, or earning a 
 livelihood, may keep terms without attending lectures." 
 . . . He " must have his name on the books of an affili- 
 ated college, and must pass its annual examination 
 in order to keep the terms of the year." Thus, a clerk, 
 mechanic, or agriculturist may study at home, pass his 
 various examinations, and obtain his degree, while still 
 all the while earning his bread. The whole course of 
 study at any of the affiliated colleges, including exami- 
 nation fees and the cost of books, for the degree of B. A. 
 need not exceed 30. And further, by an excellent 
 system of free scholarships from the Primary to the 
 Secondary schools, and from these to the University 
 Colleges, a youth of talent and industry may obtain a 
 complete education, finishing with a University degree, 
 at little, if any, expense to his friends. 
 
 Most of the lectures at these three affiliated colleges 
 are delivered in the evenings, in order to suit the 
 convenience of those students who are employed 
 throughout the day. The Professors are carefully 
 selected from the best university men at Home, and the 
 lectures, therefore, are of a high order of merit. The 
 fees for the lectures are very moderate, averaging ten to 
 fifteen shillings per term.
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 161 
 
 As it would unduly extend this section to enumerate 
 the staff of all the three colleges, I will briefly mention 
 some details of the college best known to me and latest 
 established, namely, Auckland University College, 
 opened in 1883. Forty applications from some of the 
 best scientific and literary graduates of English univer- 
 sities were sent in to the Agent-General for New Zealand 
 for the four professorships then established. Four very 
 superior men were chosen : Professors F. G. Walker 
 (mathematics and physics) ; F. D. Brown (chemistry 
 and experimental physics) ; F. G. Tucker, senior 
 classic and Fellow (classics and English) ; and A. P. 
 W. Thomas (biology and geology). Of these Professor 
 Walker was drowned shortly after his arrival, to the 
 great regret of those who knew him ; and Professor 
 W. S. Aldis, who was senior wrangler of his year at 
 Cambridge, was appointed to the chair, which he still 
 occupies with much acceptability. After some years 
 Professor Tucker removed to Melbourne University, 
 and was succeeded by Dr. H. Macaulay Posnett, 
 LL.D., Senior Moderator in Classics, Trinity College, 
 Dublin, &c., author of " Comparative Literature." 
 
 On the first opening of this College, the newspapers 
 of Auckland eulogised it, but when the depression 
 began to be felt, the institution was denounced as 
 being an expensive and premature luxury. A life of 
 six useful years, however, has amply justified its 
 foundation, for the following, among other benefits, 
 have been conferred upon the Auckland provincial 
 district : the standard of education, training, and 
 qualification of public school teachers has' been 
 distinctly raised ; a technical school has been founded ; 
 frequent " popular science " lectures on subjects useful 
 as well as interesting have been delivered by the 
 professors ; a body of students numbering 107 (68 
 men and 39 women) in the year 1887 has been 
 formed, who are not only fostering a love for learning 
 and research of all kinds, but diffusing " sweetness and 
 light " through that utilitarian community ; and 
 lastly, eminent men of the very highest qualifications 
 
 M
 
 162 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 for teaching their respective subjects have been attracted 
 to New Zealand. 
 
 As an incentive to Technical Education, hitherto very 
 deficient in the colony, the council of this college have 
 lately opened a School of Applied Science, wherein 
 instruction during a three years' course is given in the 
 following subjects : mathematics, astronomy, chemistry, 
 drawing, surveying, mechanics, architecture, metallurgy, 
 mining, engineering, and mine surveying. I hail this 
 new addition to the advantages of the college as a great 
 boon to the Auckland district, where the 'mines of gold 
 and other minerals need a more scientific and economical 
 mode of development than they have hitherto had. 
 Professors Black, of Otago University, and Brown, of 
 Auckland University College, have awakened the public 
 mind to the immense importance of scientific mining 
 and assaying, and all the science professors of the three 
 colleges have continually advocated the teaching of 
 science in schools, especially as applicable to the wants 
 of colonial life. 
 
 In connection with the Canterbury College which, 
 by the way, has just lost one of its chief ornaments, 
 Proi'essor Sir Julius von Haast a very useful institution, 
 called the School of Agriculture, was opened in 1880 at 
 Lincoln, near Christchurch. The director is Mr. W. E. 
 Ivey, who, with a competent staff of assistants, gives a 
 practical and scientific training to those who intend to 
 make farming their livelihood, upon a large farm of 660 
 acres, containing soils of all kinds and conditions. The 
 exhibits of wool and cereals sent from this farm to the 
 Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, were most 
 favourably reported on by the judges. It is probable 
 that young Englishmen who choose New Zealand as a 
 place for settlement would get a better idea of the actual 
 peculiarities of New Zealand farming by spending a 
 year or eighteen months at this very excellent School 
 of Agriculture than they would by this same length of 
 time passed at Hollesley Bay, Suffolk, well planned 
 though that institution seems to be. The special 
 advantage offered by the Otago University is the
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 163 
 
 Medical and Surgical school their Council have formed. 
 There is an operating theatre in Dunedin Hospital, a 
 dissecting room, a well-appointed chemical laboratory, 
 and the Museum of the province is under the Council's 
 management. The course of study at this school, as 
 will be gathered from the remark on p. 7, does not 
 qualify for the degree of M,D. of the New Zealand 
 University, but it is recognized by the Eoyal Colleges 
 of Physicians and Surgeons of England. There can be 
 no doubt that university education is rapidly becoming 
 popular in New Zealand. 
 
 The New Zealand Institute, established at Wellington 
 in 1868, is the central scientific association of the 
 colony. It consists of seven local Scientific Institutes, 
 having their meetings in Auckland, Napier, Wellington, 
 Nelson, Christchureh, Dunedin, and Invercargill re- 
 spectively. In 1887 the membership of the New 
 Zealand Institute was 1156. The governors of the 
 Central Institute are elected annually from the councils 
 of these local Institutes, and the permanent secretary is 
 Sir James Hector, K.C.M.G., director of the Geological 
 Survey and of the Colonial Museum. The objects of 
 the New Zealand Institute are the encouragement of the 
 pursuit of science in general ; the investigation of the 
 geology, fauna, and flora of the whole colony ; and the 
 collection of the history, traditions, and antiquities of 
 the Maori race. It seeks to effect these objects by 
 collecting, recording, and criticizing papers and essays 
 upon any of these subjects at the winter meetings ; by 
 the annual publication of a volume of Transactions, 
 which it exchanges with other similar institutions all 
 over the world ; and by grants of money to scientific 
 and literary workers in various departments. Already 
 the institute has published twenty-one volumes of 
 Transactions, which are of considerable value to the 
 scientific world, the Government assisting in the ex- 
 pense of production by an annual grant of 500. 
 
 The great value in the education of the public attaching 
 to Free Libraries is wisely recognized by the Government 
 by an annual parliamentary grant in aid of their funds ; 
 
 M 2
 
 164 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 this sum being distributed in proportion to the income 
 derived by the libraries from other sources, generally 
 voluntary ; the sole condition qualifying a library to 
 share in the grant being that the library must be open 
 free to the public. In 1887 three hundred and sixty-one 
 libraries, distributed through all parts of New Zealand, 
 shared in the grant. But the stern hand of retrenchment 
 has swept this aid away for a time. 
 
 In connection with the education of the public, we 
 must not forget that powerful agent, the newspaper 
 Press of New Zealand. There are in the colony more 
 than twenty daily and a large mmiber of weekly news- 
 papers, which circulate to the remotest parts of the 
 country. Every little town has its daily or tri-weekly 
 newspaper. On the whole the Press of New Zealand is 
 creditable to its conductors, the chief blemish of the 
 average New Zealand newspaper consisting in vitupera- 
 tive attacks upon the other towns or districts in the 
 colony. When a Dunedin paper calls Wellington " the 
 windy, shaky, metropolis of matchboxes/' one cannot 
 help laughing at the grain of truth contained in the 
 farcical epigram ; but it is not fair to the Wellingtonians 
 to hurt their feelings thn, for they are not responsible 
 for either storm or earthquake, and their wooden houses 
 are incontestably the safest and best for these conditions 
 of habitation. An Auckland resident, again, cannot feel 
 kindly to the Wairarapa people when their newspaper, 
 the Star, apropos of the great disappointment felt in 
 Auckland at the gist of the parliamentary committee's 
 Eeport on the North Island Trunk Eailway, which was 
 that the Central instead of the Taranaki route must be 
 adopted, writes : " Visions of wrong inflicted upon the 
 people of that warm and unhappy region of volcanic 
 debris began to dance in the bosoms of her devoted banks, 
 and more devoted insurance companies, embalmed by 
 faithful directors of money rings, South Sea kidnappers, 
 Pakeha-Maoris, native land-sharks, and ladies of the 
 period enshrined in matchbox hotels and suicidal 
 boarding-houses, surrounded by speculative villas that, 
 like Mounts Etna and Vesuvius start occasionally into
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 165 
 
 flame. The seoriacity of Mount Eden would make the 
 city lead a dreamy somnolent kind of existence, were it 
 not that the weight of its iniquities, lying heavily across 
 its chest, causes its slumbers now and then to be dis- 
 turbed by frightful nightmares." 
 
 I have numerous other specimens of journalistic ob- 
 jurgation, but refrain from quoting any more, for their 
 local flavour would scarcely be appreciated by Home 
 readers. On the other hand the leading newspapers of 
 the colony display in their editorial articles a bright 
 intelligence and sturdy common sense in commenting 
 upon British and foreign politics such as are not always 
 found in the organs of the extreme political parties at 
 home. The Home Rule question, for instance, is fairly 
 and independently discussed ; a loyal tone pervades all 
 references to our august Sovereign, and to the Royal 
 Family; while the excessive expenditures on Court 
 sinecures are unsparingly assailed. Isolated passages 
 in some newspapers would lead the casual reader to 
 imagine that there was a republican feeling in New 
 Zealand, but the whole spirit of the press displays a 
 steady loyalty to the existing British Constitution, and 
 a love for the dear Old Country. Interesting letters 
 from London, from the United States, and from special 
 correspondents in the Pacific Islands convey to New 
 Zealanders accurate and condensed information of what 
 is passing all over the world. The serial tale is now 
 a regular part of the eight-page daily ; and the Saturday 
 supplements of newspapers like the New Zealand 
 Herald and Evening Star of Auckland contain capital 
 selections of scientific, critical, and light reading. 
 
 3. Hospitals, Refuges, Asylums, and Poor Relief. 
 
 There is no such complete poor-law in New Zealand 
 as we have in England : there are no workhouses or 
 casual wards. Pauperism, and the formation of a 
 pauper class, is greatly dreaded. But there is a system 
 of outdoor relief, in the shape of a weekly dole of
 
 166 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 food given to necessitous persons and their families, 
 until employment is found for the bread-winner, or the 
 whole family leave the colony. Money is seldom 
 given, except for house-rent. The Eelieving Officer 
 was until lately a Government official, now he is 
 appointed by the " Hospital and Charitable Aid Board " 
 for the City or District. The local Benevolent 
 Societies co-operate with the board's officers in the 
 distribution of relief, so as to prevent imposture and 
 deception. There is urgent need now for a tramp or 
 casual shed in each of the four large cities of the 
 colony ; but long distant be the day when a workhouse 
 shall be a necessity for New Zealand ! 
 
 The Government have hitherto given 1 for 1 on 
 the sum raised by the contributions made from the 
 rates and by voluntary subscriptions towards the 
 maintenance of the outdoor relief fund, the benevolent 
 asylums or refuges, and the public hospitals, all of which 
 are now under the control of this new " Hospital and 
 Charitable Aid Board." Hundreds of men, women, and 
 children avail themselves of the temporary but timely 
 relief thus given ; but though there are some " old 
 soldiers," who hang along for years on charity, there is 
 no inert mass of helpless, hopeless, pauperism as yet in 
 New Zealand, and I devoutly hope there never will be. 
 The eight benevolent asylums during the year 1887 
 maintained 972 persons, and the amount expended on 
 them was 32,183. The six orphanages and four 
 industrial schools during the same year contained 270 
 inmates, on whom 7678 were expended. The In- 
 stitution for the Deaf and Dumb is a private one, 
 well conducted. 
 
 The Hospitals of New Zealand are now placed under 
 the management of the " Hospital and Charitable Aid 
 Boards." They are conducted in different ways in 
 different parts of the colony, some not altogether satis- 
 factory, judging by the frequent changes in the medical 
 and surgical staff, and the numerous attacks in the press. 
 In most of them payment by patients is compulsory 
 generally 12s. per week for a bed in the general wards,
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 167 
 
 or one guinea in a private ward ; but if absolute want of 
 means can be proved to the hospital board, the payment 
 is remitted. There are thirty-seven hospitals in the 
 colony, in which beds are provided for 870 male and 333 
 female patients. A dispensary, or out-patient depart- 
 ment, is usually attached to each hospital, where both 
 advice and medicine may be obtained gratis. The total 
 receipts of these hospitals during 1887 amounted to 
 77,668, and the expenditure upon them to 75,313. 
 The number of patients admitted into them during this 
 year was 6681. 
 
 In the Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, and 
 Dunedin hospitals the nursing is first-class, and 
 probationers are trained under the supervision of a 
 lady-superintendent. Our matron, Miss Crisp (now 
 Mrs. Dr. Bond), in Auckland, was a distinguished 
 army nurse, who had medals for service in Egypt and 
 in South Africa, and was presented with the new Order 
 of Merit devised by the Queen for nurses by the 
 Governor, Sir W. F. D. Jervois, at a distinguished 
 gathering at Government House, Auckland. The 
 ventilation and internal arrangements are usually 
 good in these hospitals. The smaller country and 
 town hospitals are attended by one medical officer, 
 who calls in his colleagues' aid when deemed advisable. 
 In the larger hospitals there is one resident doctor, or 
 two, and an honorary staff. If the best practitioners of 
 the city do not join the staff (as is sometimes stated) it 
 is because the relative duties and departments of the 
 medical staff and committee of management are not as 
 clearly defined as in England. This matter will in 
 due time right itself, however. The recent legislation 
 respecting hospitals has been rather hasty and crude ; 
 for it is not wise suddenly to throw their support upon 
 the rates, and thereby discourage voluntary subscrip- 
 tions, which in many cases formed the chief source of 
 income. Some years' trial is necessary before we can 
 pronounce the change beneficial or injurious to the 
 community at large. 
 
 There are seven public Lunatic Asylums and one
 
 168 NEW ZEALAND^ 
 
 Private Licensed Asylum in the colony. At the end of 
 1887 these contained 1695 inmates (1053 males and 
 642 females). During that year 415 lunatics had been 
 admitted, 226 discharged, and 101 had died. In 
 chapter xii. I have demonstrated that mental diseases 
 are not so prevalent in New Zealand as in some other 
 Australasian colonies. 
 
 One Home for Inebriates, under private management, 
 exists in the colony. 
 
 4. Gaols and Police. 
 
 Justice is administered in New Zealand by a 
 Supreme Court, consisting of a Chief Justice and four 
 Puisne Judges ; by District Judges ; stipendiary Eesi- 
 dent Magistrates, and unpaid Justices of the Peace, 
 proceedings being in most respects the same as in 
 England. In addition there are some procedures not 
 known in England, such as the coroner's inquest on a 
 fire when arson is suspected. 
 
 In criminal statistics it is gratifying to state that for 
 seven years past there has been a gradual decrease in 
 the proportion of charges and convictions to the whole 
 population. It has been remarked that this decrease 
 has been simultaneous with a steady diminution in the 
 consumption of spirits and beer per head during the 
 same period. The percentage of convictions to 
 charges is somewhat lower than in England and 
 Wales. 
 
 There is a gaol in each provincial district, generally 
 situated in the capital of that district. The prison 
 management, fare, and discipline are good ; good con- 
 duct marks are given, and the health of the prisoners 
 is well maintained by the work they do for the Govern- 
 ment on roads, streets, parks, &c. Free access to the 
 prisons is permitted to all ministers of religion who 
 desire to visit the prisoners. Careful periodical in- 
 spections of the prisons are made both by the Inspector- 
 general of Prisons and by the Visiting Justices. Since 
 the year 1881 the number of prisoners incarcerated in
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 169 
 
 the gaols throughout the colony has been about 5500 
 in the year ; the daily average was about 600. 
 
 The police force is a centralized body under the 
 direct control of the Minister of Justice. It is now 
 (1889) under the retrenchment scheme, cut down to 
 500 of all ranks, a proportion of one to 1220 of the 
 population of New Zealand, which is a contrast to the 
 one to 571 of Great Britain. For intelligence, sobriety, 
 and common sense the New Zealand police officer sur- 
 passes his British confrere. The Superintendents of 
 Police have to perform in many criminal cases the 
 difficult and delicate duty of prosecution. The Govern- 
 ment, therefore, every two or three years changes their 
 districts, so as to keep them as free as possible from 
 local bias. 
 
 The " First Offenders' Probation Act, 1886," whereby 
 a person of previously good character, convicted of a 
 first offence, may be liberated by the judge, on con- 
 dition of a surety, approved by him, undertaking to 
 keep the accused under surveillance for a certain 
 period, has worked so well that I observe a similar Act 
 has been recently passed by our Imperial Parliament. 
 
 The Eegistrar-general, in his report on the census of 
 1886, gives the number of persons living on charity 
 and at the expense of the State as 4202, including 599 
 belonging to the " criminal class." 
 
 The temperance societies of all sorts and descriptions 
 are strong in numbers and energy in New Zealand, and 
 influence many votes in the parliamentary elections. 
 The principle of local option is now carried into prac- 
 tice in New Zealand, and has proved on the whole 
 beneficial to the community. 
 
 5. Public Works. 
 
 These comprise roads, railways, bridges, docks, 
 harbours, Government buildings, and other works of a 
 permanent value to the colony, the expenditure on 
 which since 1870 has amounted to 24,669,000.
 
 170 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 -When New Zealanders are twitted with their large 
 public debt of thirty-five millions, they can point to 
 saleable and more or less reproductive assets, in the 
 shape of 1770 miles of railway ; 4746 miles of tele- 
 graph ; 8478 miles of road ; 791 bridges ; lighthouses, 
 harbour works, and harbour defences to the value of 
 826,000; public buildings valued at 1,652,000; 
 waterworks on the gold-fields, 510,000 ; and land 
 purchased from the natives to the value of 1,145,000. 
 The surface of New Zealand being unfavourable to 
 railway construction, it is creditable to the engineers 
 who laid out the lines that both the original cost of 
 making the railways has been less than than that of 
 the cheapest railways of other British colonies (Cape 
 Colony, for instance) by 1242 per mile; and that the 
 cost of maintenance per mile (141) is 2 less than in 
 Cape Colony, 9 less than in Victoria, and 9 less 
 than in New South Wales. On the 31st March, 1888, 
 the net earnings of all the railways in New Zealand, 
 some lines paying better than others, amounted to a 
 sum equal to 2 6s. per cent, upon their original cost. 
 
 The gauge in New Zealand is narrow 3 ft. 6 in. 
 as being less costly and better suited to the sharp 
 curves and narrow passes through which the railways 
 have to run in many parts the Kimutaka Pass and 
 the Manawatu Gorge, for example than the English 
 standard gauge. The classes are two : 1st, the fare by 
 which averages 2d. per mile ; and 2nd, where the fare 
 is tyd. The carriages are built on the American 
 pattern, with seats on each side and a passage down the 
 centre, leading to a platform at each end of the car. 
 There is provision for ventilation but not for heating. 
 The new "bogie" carriages on the long main lines 
 are quite comfortable. The ordinary speed, including 
 stoppages, is fifteen miles an hour, and for " expresses " 
 from twenty to twenty-five miles an hour. 
 
 The harbours and docks of the colony have been built 
 out of loans negotiated in London on the security of the 
 colonial Government, but borrowed by Harbour Boards 
 and Dock Companies, over which the Government have
 
 ' PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 171 
 
 a control by their auditors. These works are therefore 
 " public " not " private," and are maintained by dues, 
 rates, and licenses levied by the several corporations to 
 which they belong. Complaints are made by shipping 
 and steamer companies of the high harbour and dock 
 dues, but they are in reality reasonable when the great 
 cost of construction and maintenance is considered. 
 When trade . is prosperous, the harbour and dock bonds 
 are as good as any investment in New Zealand. When 
 there is a lull in outside sea-going commerce, the smaller 
 harbour boards find it difficult to pay the usual interest 
 and keep up the sinking fund. Hence disputes arise ; 
 but the colonial Government invariably keep them to 
 the strict letter of the law. The breakwaters at Timaru 
 and at New Plymouth are now effective, but have 
 been in their time " white elephants," sinking thousands 
 of pounds in the boisterous sea. Eventually, however, 
 engineering science triumphs over nature in all these 
 seaports. 
 
 By their perseverance and liberal expenditure the 
 Auckland Harbour Board possess as part of the 
 admirable facilities of the Waitemata, the largest 
 graving-dock (the ' Calliope,' described on p. 61) south 
 of the line. Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, with 
 which a tunnel connects it, has a deep-water harbour, 
 with quays illuminated by the electric light, large wool 
 stores near the wharves, and a graving-dock 450 feet 
 long by 82 feet wide. During the wheat-shipment 
 season Lyttelton wharves are one of the sights best 
 worth seeing in New Zealand. The Otago Harbour 
 Board have so improved and deepened the tortuous 
 channel of the estuary leading from Port Chalmers to 
 Dunedin that now the Union Company's steamers of 
 2000 tons can safely come up to the wharves of the 
 city. The harbour of Wellington, the capital, is well 
 supplied with all the most modern appliances. 
 
 Too much space would be occupied were I to 
 describe the principal bridges in the colony, some of 
 which, made of iron manufactured in England, such as 
 that of Wanganui, Manawatu, and the Clutha and
 
 172 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Waitaki rivers. The ambition of New Zealand now is 
 directed to manufacture in the colony and put together 
 all her own iron structures, bridges, locomotives, cranes, 
 fencing, &c., from the iron or steel made from the native 
 iron-sand, chrome iron ore, or hematite. 
 
 The lighthouses of New Zealand belong to the 
 Government, and are efficient, but are not so powerful or 
 elaborate as in the old country ; nor are they sufficiently 
 numerous for so dangerous a coast. As the Government 
 can afford it their number will be increased. 
 
 The defences of New Zealand have been skilfully 
 carried out under the able superintendence of the late 
 Governor, Sir W. F. D. Jervois, G.C.M.G., and the 
 colony contributes its share to the Australasian Defence 
 Squadron. 
 
 The Government buildings are nearly all creditable 
 to the colony and suitable for their purposes. 
 
 6. Post Office, Telegraphs, and Telephones. 
 
 New Zealand surpasses the rest of the Australasian 
 colonies, taking into account the mountainous nature of 
 the country and the large cost of sea-borne mails, in the 
 convenience, speed, and frequency, of both internal and 
 external postal communications. Though the rates of 
 postage are, generally speaking, double the English 
 rates, there are more letters, and newspapers, and money 
 orders per head of the population sent through the post 
 than in Great Britain. Outside of a city or borough one 
 needs a two-penny stamp for a letter weighing half an 
 ounce ; the same letter would go to the Fijis, Norfolk 
 Island, or any part of Australia for the same stamp. 
 The postage for the same weight to England, Europe, or 
 America is sixpence. Yet the great mental activity and 
 home attachments of the New Zealanders is shown by 
 the fact that no less than 39,377,774 letters and over 
 15,380,000 newspapers were posted or delivered during 
 1887, at and by the 1118 post-offices then open. The 
 number of inland mail services was 600, and of tele-
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 173 
 
 phone bureaux 33, to which there were 2042 sub- 
 scribers. During the same year, 159,597 money orders 
 were issued, for an aggregate sum of 555,744. All the 
 facilities of postal notes, post-cards, &c., of the British 
 post-office are provided, with the convenient addition of 
 " delayed telegrams," which are sent off at any time the 
 wire is unoccupied, at the rate of 6d. for twenty words ; 
 and of telegraphic money orders, which are only this year 
 (1889) being experimentally tried in this country. A 
 foreign parcels post has recently been established, the 
 rates being Is. 6d. for 2 Ibs. and 9d. per Ib. up to 11 Ibs. 
 the limit of weight. The high rates of foreign postage, 
 parcels post, &c., are due to the heavy subsidies paid to 
 the steamship lines via America and Cape Horn which 
 carry the ocean mails. A change is impending in these 
 arrangements. 
 
 Over the 4746 miles of telegraph line 1,835,394 
 messages were sent in 1887. The telephone is much 
 used in all the business centres of New Zealand, the 
 Government has the monopoly, but has fixed the 
 rates at a much more moderate figure than have the 
 companies in England. One is charged 10 per 
 telephone for the first year, if within the half-mile 
 radius of the central bureau, and 8 for every year 
 afterwards. Doctors, chemists, bankers, dentists all 
 use them, and merchants and brokers often have a 
 second telephone at their residences. 
 
 The post-office savings banks, of which there were 
 283 in 1887, do a very large business, which varies 
 sympathetically with the fluctuations of trade and 
 commerce throughout the colony. The tide of returning 
 prosperity is accurately shown, therefore, by the facts 
 that (a) while the withdrawals from these banks 
 exceeded the deposits by 87,881 in the year 1886, in 
 the following year 1887 the deposits exceeded the 
 withdrawals by 129,741 ; and (b) in all the savings 
 banks of the colony, including the seven non-official, 
 273,995 more were deposited during 1887 than during 
 1886.
 
 174 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 7. Government Life Assurance. 
 
 This Department, opened in 1870, was the first of the 
 kind established in any British colony. Its success has 
 amply justified the expectations of its founders, the 
 chief of whom, if I mistake not, was Sir J. Vogel. By 
 means of conveniently situated offices in every town, 
 by courteous managers, the most skilful medical referees 
 obtainable, and a host of energetic canvassers, this 
 department, though keenly competed with by the 
 Australian Mutual Provident Association, does a 
 business with which our own Government life assurance 
 and annuity (post-office) business is a mere bagatelle. 
 The Department offers the exceptional advantages of 
 1st. Inviolable security to the assured, the payment of 
 every policy being guaranteed by the colony under a 
 special Act of Parliament ; 2nd. The division of the 
 entire profits among the policy-holders alone. In the 
 first ten years of its existence (1870-1880) these profits 
 amounted to 77,595. 3rd. There are no restrictions 
 on the policy as to trade, occupation, or travelling to 
 other countries ; each policy also being unchallengeable 
 after five years' standing. 4th. The premiums are very 
 low; the premiums with profits being as low as the 
 non-participating rates in other offices. The very low 
 death-rate in New Zealand in 1887 only 10 '29 for 
 every 1000 inhabitants, as compared with 18 '78 per 
 1000 for England and Wales enables the department 
 to do a safe remunerative business, while keeping the 
 rates of premiums low. Despite the competition of seven 
 other life assurance companies doing business in the 
 colony, the Government assurance holds its own well, 
 though the first to suffer in " hard times " by the lapse 
 of old policies and the slackening-off of new insurances. 
 During the year 1888 the new policies issued were 
 2957, insuring an amount of 785,692. The total 
 number of policies in force are now 26,168, insuring 
 over 7,700,000. The accumulated funds amount to 
 1,452,478. I have been thus minute in describing
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 175 
 
 this Department because it is of great importance to 
 the intending settler to know that he can cheaply, 
 conveniently, and securely insure his life in New 
 Zealand ; and it is interesting to my medical colleagues 
 to see demonstrated by these hard facts the healthiness 
 of New Zealanders and hence of their climate. 
 
 8. Other Government Departments. 
 
 1. The Public Trust Office, established in 1872. In 
 New Zealand many persons die by accident or are 
 drowned at sea, or in one way or another meet with 
 a sudden death, leaving no will, nor any relatives in the 
 colony. Sometimes their real names are unknown. In 
 many such sad events, property was left by the 
 deceased, and its rightful disposal was a matter of much 
 difficulty. To meet this difficulty the Government 
 opened this Office, appointing a Public Trustee and 
 Executor, with a Deputy in each provincial district, 
 whose duty it should be to collect all the property of the 
 deceased, and distribute it to the legitimate claimants ; 
 to discharge all just debts; and to carry out the 
 provisions of the will, where there was one left by the 
 deceased. He may also administer trusts under deeds 
 and settlements, and may manage the estate of a 
 lunatic. All investments of money are under the 
 control of a Board, consisting of the Colonial Treasurer, 
 the Attorney-general, the Controller and Auditor- 
 general, and the Public Trustee. The Government are 
 directly responsible for the honest fulfilment of the 
 trusts, and the Public and Deputy Trustees have 
 hitherto given satisfaction. That there is need for such 
 an office is proved by the fact that in 1885 the cash 
 receipts of the Public Trustee amounted to 195,000. 
 The expense of management is covered by a tax of five 
 per cent, upon the property of deceased persons. 
 
 2. The Assignees in Bankruptcy are gentlemen of 
 honesty, ability, and business experience, appointed in 
 each large town of the colony to carry out the provisions
 
 176 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 of the Bankruptcy Acts. In fact, they perform the 
 duties assigned at home to the Kegistrars in Bankruptcy, 
 and have judicial as well as administrative powers. So 
 far as my experience (as a creditor only) goes in the 
 Auckland district, they perform their difficult and 
 delicate duties with an integrity, firmness, and diligence 
 which leave nothing to be desired. 
 
 3. Sheep and Babbit Inspectors. The former class 
 of officials have to see that no epizootic disease is 
 allowed to spread ; that the sheep are properly dipped 
 in some disinfectant when the " scab " breaks out, and 
 so on. The latter class of inspectors do their very best 
 to enforce the law relative to fencing (so as to keep 
 the rabbits from spreading from one farm to another), 
 and to extermination. The extent of the rabbit pest in 
 the Middle Island has necessitated the appointment of 
 these officers. 
 
 All the above branches of the Government have a 
 special interest for immigrants. There are numerous 
 other offices which it is not necessary to introduce into 
 a small volume like this. 
 
 9. Friendly Societies 
 
 Are numerous, and called by as diverse names as in the 
 old country. In 1887 they numbered 290 "lodges" 
 and thirty central associations. The number of 
 members then was 21,679, and the value of their 
 property was 335,675. All these societies must be 
 registered, and must submit their accounts to the Public 
 Auditor and Valuer annually. Their weekly allow- 
 ances to sick and infirm members are more liberal than 
 in the old country , commensurate with the higher 
 rate of contributions. 
 
 10. Building Societies. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1887, there were forty-eight 
 land, building, and investment societies in the colony. 
 The number of members was 4480. The rules and
 
 PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. 177 
 
 accounts are subject to revision by Government officials. 
 The shares pay a dividend of from eight to ten per cent, 
 to investing members. 
 
 
 
 11. Sailors' Homes and Rests. 
 
 It is to be regretted that these useful institutions are 
 not so numerous in New Zealand as could be wished ; 
 but what do exist are very successful. At Lyttelton 
 there is a neat Sailors' Home which cost 2500, and is 
 well managed by a retired captain. In Auckland, as 
 described on p. 65, there is a spacious and handsome 
 building for sailors, in which the Sailors' Eest in- 
 augurated by Bishop Cowie in 1881 is blended with 
 the ordinary work of a Sailors' Home. 
 
 Sailors' Rests, that is, free reading and refreshment 
 rooms for the use of those who follow the sea, are to be 
 found at Auckland, "Wellington, Port Chalmers, and 
 Dunedin, managed by committees of ladies and gentle- 
 men warmly interested in Christian and philanthropic 
 work. 
 
 N
 
 178 KSW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 JRODUCTIOKS AND INDUSTRIES, 
 
 Natural products erolve certain Industries The growth of fifty 
 yeara Exports now exceed Imports in value Statistics of 
 production of Wool Meat The frozen meat trade Skins and 
 hid^s Dairy produce Wheat Timber Kauri gum Gold 
 and silver Other metals Building stone Coal Flax, fungus, 
 tan-bark, petroleum, train oil Minor Industries Eeasons for 
 tie Protective Tariff Policy of Bonuses for new Cultures and 
 Industries -The working-man of New Zealand and the Chinese 
 W. N. Blair on Labour and Capital Patent law Inven- 
 tiveness of New Zealanders Humane legislation for women 
 and children in factories. 
 
 FOR a colony which will celebrate its first jubilee in 
 1890, New Zealand has developed a wonderful variety 
 of industries and manufactures. These are very nearly 
 all based upon indigenous raw products. There can be 
 little question that the grand resources of the colony in 
 climate, water, coal, timber, iron, and other minerals fit 
 her to become a manufacturing as well as an agricul- 
 tural country. Let but a great market be open to her 
 outside, and let her own children wear and use her own 
 fabrics and implements, and Zealandia need no longer 
 be " pap-fed " by Government bonuses, or bolstered up 
 by excessively high import duties. The 1770 miles of 
 rail open on March 31, 1888, and the yearly increasing 
 coastal steamer facilities are also promoting the indus- 
 tries of the colony by cheaper and quicker communica- 
 tions. All real progress in a new country must depend 
 upon its natural resources, its geographical position, and 
 the intelligence of its people. The discovery of gold 
 has greatly accelerated the colonization of New Zealand, 
 and given rise to mills, smelting works, assay labora-
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 179 
 
 tories, and so on. The existence of vast deposits of iron- 
 sand on the coast together with coal in over a hundred 
 places in the interior has given rise to iron-works at 
 Onehunga and Taranaki. The profusion of sheep and 
 cattle have made meat so cheap that meat freezing and 
 preserving works have sprung up in several places. 
 Similarly, fish in prodigal abundance, and fruit in 
 quantities which are too great for home consumption in 
 the fresh state, have given rise to " canneries," and jam 
 factories. The discovery of capital tan -bark trees 
 (PliyllodaduB and others) has coincided with the ex- 
 traordinary cheapness of skins and hides to evolve 
 tanneries, where leather is now produced in quality 
 almost equal to the English article. Political econo- 
 mists tell us that that country has a prosperous trade 
 where the exports exceed in value the imports. Upon 
 this theory the balance of trade has been against New 
 Zealand's prosperity up to a recent period. But a turn 
 in the tide has come ; for, whereas in the year 1882 the 
 declared value of all the imports was 8,609,270 and 
 that of the exports only 6,658,000, in the year 1887 
 the value of imports had sunk to 6,245,515, while that 
 of exports had risen to 6,866,169. Of all this trade at 
 least seventy per cent, was carried on with Great Britain. 
 In this chapter I have given a brief and condensed 
 statement of the principal natural products, industries, 
 and manufactures of New Zealand at the present time. 
 I have taken the statistics of 1886 as the basis, but 
 where reliable figures of later date have been issued by 
 the Government I shall use them. While I do not 
 profess to give a complete list of all the products and 
 manufactures of the colony, I think the English reader 
 will see even in this short compendium of the amount 
 and variety of the business done in New Zealand enough 
 to astonish him. 
 
 1. Wool. 
 
 This is still the most important raw product of this 
 colony, the value of the wool exported being treble 
 that of the gold produced. Although individual sheep 
 
 N 2
 
 180 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 farmers have in many cases lost their capital in this 
 pursuit, from inexperience, bad management, diseases 
 among the sheep, disastrous winters, or general "ill- 
 luck," yet wool-growing has proved on the whole to 
 be a great success in New Zealand. Not only have the 
 sheep multiplied ninefold in the twenty-one years, the 
 breed being continually improved by fresh importations 
 of Southdown, Merino, and Saxon rams, but also the 
 weight of the fleece has doubled, while the average 
 weight of a " carcase " in New Zealand is as much as 
 68 Ibs., that of an Australian sheep being 50 Ibs. ; of a 
 River Plate sheep 37 Ibs ; and a sheep from the Cape 
 Colony only 22 Ibs. 
 
 New Zealand now provides the European market 
 with exactly the two classes of wool required by the 
 manufacturer combing wool for worsted goods, bom- 
 bazines, camlets, &c ; and clothing wool for broadcloth, 
 tweed, &c. The Lincoln, Leicester, Cotswold, and 
 Romney Marsh breeds of long-staple-woolled sheep 
 and the Southdown, Shropshire, and Spanish Merino 
 varieties of short-staple-woolled sheep thrive better 
 than in their European habitats because of the shorter 
 and milder winters. The Merino sheep seems to adapt 
 itself to every climate. The peculiar excellence of its 
 wool consists in the fineness and number of serrations 
 in each hair, whereby it is enabled to "felt well," as it 
 is termed. Thus, under the microscope one finds 2720 
 serrations in one inch of a saxon Merino hair, but only 
 2000 in the same length of a Southdown, and 1850 in 
 that of a Leicester sheep. 
 
 In 1887 from a little over fifteen million sheep the 
 wool clipped amounted to 90,825,937 Ibs. Of this 
 amount over two millions were used within the colony 
 in manufacture of blankets, tweeds, felt, &c; and 
 88,824,382 Ibs., valued at 3,321,074, were exported, 
 this being a large advance in value over that of the 
 previous year. The market price of wool fluctuates 
 very much, for New Zealand competes at an immense 
 distance with wool-producing countries nearer the 
 home market; but let it be noted that a low price
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 181 
 
 in London quotations of New Zealand wools does not 
 indicate a quality inferior to the usual average produced 
 in the colony. Excellent blankets, tweeds, worsted 
 goods, stockings, caps, &c., are now manufactured from 
 native wool at Onehunga, Petone, Kaiapoi, and Moss- 
 giel. So pure and honestly made are the woollen goods 
 of New Zealand that a French manufacturer, visiting 
 the Sydney Exhibition, after critically examining the 
 tweed from our colony and finding to his astonishment 
 that it was " all wool," exclaimed, " Well, these New 
 Zealanders are fools ! " 
 
 2. Meat. 
 
 A large and ever-increasing trade in frozen and 
 tinned meat (mutton, beef, lamb, tongues, kidneys, &c.) 
 has grown up since 1882 between New Zealand and 
 Great Britain. The great distance between the two 
 countries alone prevents a "live-stock" trade from 
 taking the place of "dead meat" business. The im- 
 portance to Great Britain of this New Zealand meat, of 
 such excellent quality and sold so cheaply to the 
 actual consumer in this country (4d. or 5d. per Ib.) 
 cannot be over-estimated. Our Home population, even 
 after allowing for deaths and emigration, is increasing 
 at the prodigious rate of nearly 1000 a day, while the 
 live stock raised in our own country is not increasing. 
 By the year 1896, Mulhall calculates, our population 
 will have risen to forty-three millions, while the country 
 itself will be producing only enough meat to feed its 
 inhabitants for Jive months in the year. Already we 
 import 600,000 tons of meat from North and South 
 America. But the colony of New Zealand is our 
 latest and best sheep-farm. Even seven years since 
 New Zealand ranked second among the Australasian 
 colonies as a sheep-breeding country; and its juicy 
 meat brought twopence a pound more in the English 
 market than the lean, tough, and flavourless mutton of 
 Australia. The meat-freezing machinery now works 
 to perfection; the voyage from port to port is brought
 
 182 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 within forty days by direct steamer ; and we can now 
 have the delicious grass-fed mutton, beef, and lamb of 
 New Zealand, with the flavour unimpaired, placed on our 
 tables, at a price fifty per cent, less than that of English 
 grown meat, yet with a fair profit to the colonial sheep 
 farmer. This kind of freight is now, I am told, the 
 most remunerative of any to the steamship companies, 
 The Tainui of the Shaw, Savill, and Albion line, 
 made the voyage from Lyttelton to Plymouth in the 
 autumn of 1888 in 38 days and 17 hours, loaded with 
 30,000 frozen sheep, which she landed in good condi- 
 tion at Eio de Janeiro and at London. The New Zea- 
 land Shipping Company's steamers have done the same 
 trip in 36 days. From the year 1882, when 15,244 cwt. 
 of frozen meat, valued at 19,339, were exported to 
 England, much of it being spoiled through inexperience 
 in the various processes, the trade has rapidly in- 
 creased, so that in 1887 no less than 402,107 cwt. of 
 meats of the value of 455,870, were exported from 
 New Zealand. In that year there were forty-four meat- 
 freezing and preserving works in the colony, repre- 
 senting capital sunk in buildings and machinery to the 
 amount of 442,962. 
 
 The recent amalgamation and consequent closing of 
 the smaller works will enhance the profits of those still 
 in the trade. If the sheep farmer receives even 2^c. 
 only per Ib. for the carcases he delivers at the works 
 it pays him. So cheap is mutton in the colony that 
 during the year ending March 31, 1888, while 931,526 
 sheep were frozen and 215,192 were preserved for export, 
 no less than 378,339 were boiled down for tallow. 
 
 The value of cured, salted, and tinned meats in the 
 year ending March 31, 1888, was 98,036. 
 
 3. Skins and Sides. 
 
 Over twelve and a half millions of rabbit-skins were 
 exported during 1887, of the value of 111,172 a 
 poor compensation, though not to be despised, for the
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 183 
 
 devastation of the pasturage in the South of New 
 Zealand by the voracity of these Rodentia. In that 
 year the export of all descriptions of skins and hides 
 was over fifteen millions in number, of the value of 
 240,219. 
 
 4. Dairy Produce. 
 
 Australia regards New Zealand as its dairy farm, 
 just as it looks upon Tasmania as its fruit garden and 
 jam factory. India also is now looking to New 
 Zealand for cheese and butter. The fondness of the 
 "mild Hindoo" for ghee affords an outlet for the in- 
 ferior butter of the New Zealand farmer, while the best 
 and medium qualities realize handsome prices in the 
 two great markets above mentioned. The export of 
 butter from New Zealand during 1887 amounted in 
 value to 54,921, and of cheese the value was 54,562. 
 In this connection I may mention the invention by 
 J. A. Pond, of Auckland, of an ingenious enamel for 
 lining butter-boxes, which makes them air-tight and 
 water-tight. Butter may thus be conveyed to any dis- 
 tance without waste or loss. There are about 190,000 
 cows in New Zealand, and each is estimated to return 
 5 per annum to the owner. The cheese factories have 
 not been all successful, but have created a new export, 
 which will in due time yield a handsome profit, and 
 cause this new industry to be greatly extended. 
 
 Though scarcely a product of the dairy, it is note- 
 worthy that honey of excellent flavour is being produced 
 in the Waikato and other districts of the North Island. 
 The value of the honey exported in 1886 was 1133. 
 
 5. WJieat and other Cereals. 
 
 New Zealand is first a pastoral, and secondly an 
 agricultural country ; but the area devoted to the growth 
 of cereals is every year increasing. The wheat-growing 
 land in 1888 was 337,359 acres, an increase of more than 
 104,000 acres over the area thus occupied in 1887. In
 
 184 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 1888 the production of wheat was 9,424,059 bushels, 
 as against 6,297,638 bushels in 1887. 
 
 The yield per acre in 1888 was very good, surpassing 
 the annual average. In Auckland and Taranaki it was 
 over 29 bushels ; in Otago nearly 30 ; while in Hawke's 
 Bay it reached the high figure of 31'48. 
 
 Of course harvests vary from year to year even in 
 the comparatively steady climate of New Zealand ; but 
 it is confessed by all the other colonies to be ahead of 
 them in the average yield per acre of all cereals, ard of 
 potatoes. For instance, in 1882, according to the best 
 statist of the colonies, Mr. H. H. Hayter, of Victoria, 
 New Zealand produced per acre : 
 
 
 New Zealand. 
 
 New Sonth 
 Wales. 
 
 Victoria. 
 
 Wheat . . . . 
 Oats 
 
 Bushels. 
 
 26-28 
 32-95 
 
 Bushels. 
 
 16-34 
 24-88 
 
 Bushels. 
 
 9-03 
 26-17 
 
 Barley ..... 
 
 26-19 
 
 20-55 
 
 17-35 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Tons. 
 
 5-1 
 
 Tons. 
 
 3-00 
 
 Tons. 
 
 3-78 
 
 New Zealand oats are of high quality, and when 
 there is a drought in Australia their price goes up 
 very high, and is even maintained (as in 1889) for 
 some months after the welcome rain has fallen. In 
 1887 over three million bushels of oats, of the value of 
 279,556, were exported ; and of barley, maize, and 
 malt 213,969 bushels, valued at 39,799. More land 
 should be sown in these cereals, for they are all of such 
 good quality and weight as to pay better than the 
 produce of grass land. Out of seven and a quarter 
 million acres under cultivation in February 1888 (the 
 latest official statement) nearly six millions were sown 
 with grasses. Grass and clover seed to the value of 
 45,000, and potatoes valued at 23,700, were exported 
 in 1886. The best-flavoured and best-keeping New 
 Zealand potatoes are those grown in Canterbury.
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 185 
 
 6. Timber. 
 
 Extensive forests of useful native woods abound in 
 New Zealand, and are being used up at a prodigal rate. 
 The most valuable tree of all is the kauri pine 
 (Dammara Australis), of the natural order Conifer, to 
 which many of the timber-trees belong. Builders are 
 insatiable in their demand for the kauri, whose wood, 
 of a light yellowish brown colour, tough yet silky when 
 polished, and very easily worked, is durable, not readily 
 worm-eaten, and when long seasoned does not shrink 
 perceptibly. Unfortunately it is a tree of very slow 
 growth, does not exist south of Mercury Bay, and it 
 is not being replanted anywhere. At the present rate 
 of consumption, in about fifteen years this favourite 
 timber will be extinct. Some kauri trees are found 150 
 feet high with a circumference of sixty to ninety feet. 
 
 In 1887 there were produced nearly thirty-one mil- 
 lion feet of sawn and hewn kauri timber, valued at 
 127,108, the price being low: during the previous 
 year 29^ million feet had realised 139,905. The woods 
 next in commercial value are: the birch, kahikatea 
 or white pine, rimu, totara, puriri, rata, white and black 
 maire, rewarewa, and pohutakawa. In the Middle 
 Island, there being no kauri, the great demand is for 
 white pine (Jcahikatea) and birch for building. The 
 gum that ages ago exuded from kauri trees, long dead 
 and decayed, affords a special industry in the north of 
 the North Island. It is dug up from the ground, being 
 found usually from two to six feet below the surface, 
 and forms, when properly cleaned, a valuable article of 
 export. " Gum-digging " is regarded in Auckland as 
 the "last refuge for the destitute;" for the work is 
 rough but remunerative, and requires no previous 
 training. A spear wherewith to prod the ground, a 
 spade to dig out the gum, a knife to scrape it, and a 
 sack are all that are needed to fit out the " gum-digger." 
 Their camps are one of the sights peculiar to the North 
 Island. " Wastrels," men of education and culture, run-
 
 186 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 away sailors and shopmen, broken-down speculators, 
 and the waifs and strays of society are to be found in 
 the ranks of the gum-diggers. The kauri gum is an 
 amber-resin, and is sought after by coachmakers and 
 others in London and New York because its finer more 
 transparent forms make, when melted, a transparent 
 varnish suitable for carriages. To make the varnish 
 the kauri gum is melted in copper kettles and mixed 
 with turpentine and linseed oil. Its market price 
 fluctuates greatly. In 1882 gum was worth 46 per 
 ton on an average of the whole year. In that year 
 5533 tons, of the value of 240,580, were exported; in 
 1887 the exportation was 6791 tons, valued at 362,449. 
 This natural and useful product will, like the kauri 
 itself, come to an end in no rery long time. It is now 
 being searched for with all the ardour that men display 
 in prospecting for gold. 
 
 7. Gold and Silver. 
 
 The existence of gold in the Thames river, near 
 Auckland, in the North Island, was reported by a 
 traveller named Griffe in 1830 ; but it was not until 
 1852 that it was discovered in payable quantities, by 
 Mr. Charles Ring, in the Coromandel district. It is 
 now found to be of all metals perhaps the most widely 
 distributed in New Zealand. Gold occurs in three 
 kinds of deposits. 1. Quartz veins (Auckland district). 
 2. Alluvial drift (Otago). 3. Eecent sea-beaches 
 (Hokitika). 
 
 From the year 1857, when the Government began to 
 levy a tax of half-a-crown (since reduced to two 
 shillings) upon every ounce extracted from the ore, to 
 the present time, this precious metal has yielded an im- 
 portant item to the annual revenue of the colony. The 
 value of the gold exported up to the end of 1887 was 
 44,042,576, and of the silver 124,721. 
 
 Silver is found as an alloy in Thames gold ore to the 
 extent of thirty per cent; and in galena (sulphide of 
 lead) to the amount of twenty to fifty ounces to the ton.
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 187 
 
 A few of the New Zealand gold mines have been 
 very rich. One quartz mine alone, the Caledonian, in 
 the Thames district, yielded no less than 1,500,000 in 
 gold, paying in one year 570,000 in dividends to its 
 lucky shareholders. Of late years the production has 
 been falling off'. During 1887 the total value of all the 
 gold yielded by .the mines in the colony was 811,100, 
 being a decrease of 92,000 on that of 1886. 
 
 The Bank of New Zealand, which is the chief con- 
 signer of the precious metals to foreign parts, has a 
 most perfect and economical method of assaying and 
 parting the metals, the secret of which, I am informed, 
 is the property of the bank. 
 
 There being no mint in New Zealand, the bullion 
 has to be sent to Melbourne, Sydney, or London for 
 coinage. 
 
 8. Other Metals. 
 
 It is more difficult to name the metals that do not 
 occur somewhere or other in this prolific metalliferous 
 country than to enumerate in a brief space those that 
 are found there. 
 
 Iron occurs in three forms : haematite, chrome iron 
 ore, and iron-sand. For about 300 miles the beach of 
 the west coast of the North Island, from Ahipara south- 
 wards to Egmont, is covered several inches deep with this 
 very curious product, containing from sixty to seventy- 
 two per cent, of metallic iron and titanium blended, the 
 balance being pure silicious sand. Fiji produces iron- 
 sand like it, but I am not aware of any other country 
 south of the equator that contains a similar deposit. 
 It presents great difficulties in working, but these have 
 at last been overcome by ' Edison's magnetic separator ' 
 and by peculiarly constructed furnaces, so that the 
 works at Onehunga, near Auckland, and at Taranaki 
 (now united with the former), are beginning to 
 manufacture good tough iron. There is a large and 
 increasing demand in New Zealand for articles of iron 
 and steel; and, after sinking thousands of pounds
 
 188 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 sterling in earnest experiments, the plucky Iron Works 
 shareholders seem now to be in a fair way to com- 
 mence supplying this demand within the colony. 
 
 The recent discovery of extensive petroleum springs 
 at the Sugar-Loaves, and along the beach, at Taranaki, 
 suggests a cheap and handy kind of fuel for the 
 smelting processes. 
 
 Copper, cinnabar, tin the last deposit having been 
 found in the South (or Stewart's) Island ; antimony, 
 as stibnite ; manganese as psilomelane ; and lead as 
 galena occur plentifully. D. Sutherland has discovered 
 some rich mineral deposits in the West Coast Sounds, 
 which in time will be worked. Many other minerals 
 exist in the colony which I have not space to notice. 
 
 9. JSuilding Stone. 
 
 Beautiful marble is found in Caswell Bay and other 
 places ; limestone in Otago and elsewhere ; bluish-white 
 granular freestone at Oamaru ; roofing slate in the 
 Kakanui Mountains ; cement, kaolin, and granite have 
 been discovered. Very good local cement is manu- 
 factured by Wilson Brothers, of Auckland, out of lime 
 scoria and pebbles, which is becoming a favourite 
 material for houses, water-channels, plinths of railings, 
 and so on. 
 
 10. Coal. 
 
 Both lignite and coal are found in extensive deposits 
 in New Zealand. Scientific men enumerate twenty- 
 nine kinds of coal, but I can only mention the three 
 chief varieties in use. The Taupiri (Waikato) is the 
 favourite coal for household use, being a quick- burning 
 coal with a dry light ash, and throwing out great heat. 
 The Westport (Middle Island) and Bay of Islands 
 (North Island) varieties are slow burning and leave 
 much ash, but form good steaming coal : a good deal 
 is now being exported to Australia for gas-making
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 189 
 
 purposes. There are now in New Zealand 126 coal 
 mines, employing 1499 men, and these mines are pro- 
 ducing an increased quantity every year. In 1887 the 
 entire output of coal amounted to 558,620 tons, of 
 which 44,129 tons were exported. 
 
 11. Miscellaneous Products. 
 
 1. The native flax or hemp, Phormium tenax, a 
 shrub belonging to the Liliacese, possesses a fibre which, 
 when well soaked for a long time in water, and thus 
 freed from most of the gum contained in it, is readily 
 made into ropes, matting, cord, brushes, baskets, and 
 other articles. By a new process wrapping paper is 
 shortly to be made out of this useful fibre. As the 
 shrub grows wild all over New Zealand one would 
 expect it to have been a source of great profit by this 
 adaptability ; but the very great difficulty of entirely 
 eradicating the gummy matter from the leaf and stalk 
 has rendered useless, for real wear and tear, many 
 articles which have been manufactured from it. In 
 1886, 1,112 tons of this flax fibre, valued at 15,922, 
 were exported. 
 
 2. The fungus called Hirneola polytricha, which 
 grows on decaying trees in Taranaki, at the East Cape, 
 and elsewhere, is gathered for export by the Maoris, and 
 by the children of settlers. The Maoris used to eat this 
 fungus, but now prefer the better food provided for 
 them. Dried and packed in bales the fungus is sent 
 to China, where it is highly valued as a delicacy, and 
 also as a medicinal blood-purifier. It brings ll^d. 
 per Ib. in Hong Kong and 7^d. per Ib. in San Francisco. 
 In 1886 the quantity amounting to 5627 cwt. of fungus, 
 of the value of 11,047, was exported from New 
 Zealand. 
 
 3. Tanekaha bark, derived from three species of the 
 Phyllocladus, or celery-leaved pine, is one of the best 
 vegetable dyes in the world for yellow, pink, and fawn 
 colours. During the first six months of the year 1883, 
 375 tons of this bark were exported, valued at 3080.
 
 190 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 The bark of the Acacia mimosa, or " wattle," is also used 
 as a dye, and for tanning purposes. The manufacture 
 of colonial leather is still increasing. 
 
 4. Most people outside New Zealand believe that the 
 whaling industry round the coast is now extinct. But, 
 though this business is certainly decreasing, it still 
 exists, as is proved by the substantial fact that 25,571 
 gallons of sperm and black-fish oil, valued at 6105, 
 were exported in 1886. 
 
 5. Petroleum springs have been discovered near 
 Gisborne and at Taranaki (p. 188). The oil seems more 
 adapted for lubricating purposes than for illumination. 
 
 12. Minor Industries. 
 
 Among these may be mentioned carriage-building 
 colonial buggies constructed after the American pattern, 
 but more strongly built, being particularly good. 
 
 Furniture, besides all the moveable parts belonging 
 to a wooden house, is now made in large quantities, 
 both from the native woods mentioned on p. 185 and 
 from imported wood. The kauri, rimu, puriri, and 
 rewarewa woods are particularly well adapted for 
 cabinet work. The industries of fruit-preserving 
 Nelson jam being especially good of soap and candle 
 making ; sauce and pickles, tomato sauce being the 
 favourite kind, because that valuable esculent grows to 
 perfection in New Zealand; fish-curing and canning, 
 (chiefly mullet and schnapper) ; biscuits and con- 
 fectionery ; the manufacture of tobacco, cigars, and 
 cigarettes all these and many others are in a more or 
 less flourishing condition. There are also paper mills 
 at Dunedin and Mataura; cast steel works at Green 
 Island ; glass works in two places in the colony, and 
 gas is manufactured in all the towns of any importance. 
 
 No doubt a great impetus to local industries and 
 manufactures was given by the influx of borrowed money 
 and by the high protective tariff of the colony. The 
 banks furnished capital freely so long as money was 
 " easy " to start various enterprises. But when the loan
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 291 
 
 expenditure came to an end many of these industries 
 collapsed or changed hands. At times like these free 
 traders look up and promulgate their views, but pro- 
 tectionists look down and are silent. But soon, in the 
 rapid movement of colonial trade, capital flows in again 
 to the colony, and the mills, factories, and workshops 
 reopen on a basis of sounder experience. The resident 
 in New Zealand finds at the present day that the price 
 of some manufactured articles (imported) clothes, for 
 example are reduced by over-stocking and keen com- 
 petition, to almost English figures. 
 
 In 1881 the total number of works and manufactories 
 in New Zealand was 1643 ; in 1886 the number had 
 risen to 2263. 
 
 The Government have from time to time offered 
 bonuses for the manufacture of raw materials found in 
 the colony, and for the cultivation of new vegetable or 
 animal products useful to the country. Between the 
 years 1877 and 1885 payments of bonuses, varying 
 from 150 to 1500, in all amounting to 5334, were 
 made to manufacturers who had produced gunpowder, 
 sulphuric acid, wrapping and grey paper, oil-cake, 
 linseed oil, earthenware, cheese, and frozen meat. A 
 bonus is still, I understand, being offered for the manu- 
 facture of a certain quantity of each of the following 
 articles made in the colony : kerosene, pig-iron, 
 wrought-iron blooms, printing paper, silk (cocoons or 
 eggs), and starch. 
 
 Several new cultivations of economic plants have 
 been recently introduced experimentally, and bid fair to 
 be successful. Among these are the sugar-beet (Sorghum 
 saccharatum), banana, olive, raisin-grape, tea, coffee, 
 cinchona, and white mulberry (Morus alba), for the silk 
 culture. New Zealand wine has also been made, but 
 has not yet attained, so far as regards the samples tested 
 by the writer, to a palatable quality. It has been 
 proved, however, that the climate of Whangarei, among 
 other localities, is quite suitable for the culture of the 
 French and German wine-grapes. 
 
 Whatever may be thought of the wisdom of the
 
 192 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 "policy of bonuses," called by its free-trade enemies 
 "pap-feeding," there can be no doubt that it has 
 stimulated manufactures generally, and discoveries of 
 useful indigenous material very greatly. Several 
 household and educational articles have been creditably 
 made at least twenty years before they would have 
 been manufactured in the colony without such stimulus. 
 On the whole the " bonus policy " is less objectionable 
 than an Import Tariff so high as to be really protective. 
 The annual industrial exhibitions held in each of the 
 four capitals afford the best opportunities to the 
 stranger to see for himself the great variety and 
 excellent quality of New Zealand raw and manufactured 
 productions. No visitor should miss them. In Christ- 
 church I saw, at one of these industrial exhibitions, 
 carpets, blankets, tweeds, soap, jams, and cabinet work 
 of the exquisite native woods above mentioned (p. 185), 
 which I had great difficulty in believing were not the 
 work of first-class European makers. Both Scuffert 
 and Norrie, of Auckland, astonished the world at the 
 " Colinderies " by their inlaid cabinet ware, and the 
 more these lovely natural products, their beauties 
 being tastefully brought out by cutting and polishing, 
 are known, the greater will be the demand for them by 
 travellers and their friends. A table of inlaid woods 
 presented to us by our good friends in Auckland is the 
 central ornament of our drawing-room. 
 
 There is a free-trade party in the House of Eepre- 
 sentatives, headed by my friend Mr. E. Withy, member 
 for Newton, Auckland, and though its numbers are 
 small, the active propaganda it has recently carried 
 on by lectures, speeches, and the distribution of the 
 pamphlets of the Cobden Club is making converts to 
 the doctrines of free trade in the House and among the 
 public. But so long as the New Zealand manufacturers 
 insist upon protection, and the working-men who have 
 votes are firmly convinced that a high tariff means to 
 them high wages and short hours of labour, there is no 
 probability of any alterations in the fiscal policy of the 
 colony during this generation. American ideas are
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 193 
 
 gaining ground among the working-men of New Zealand, 
 as is shown by the imposition of a tax of 10 upon 
 every Chinaman entering the colony. In this " exclusion 
 policy " New South Wales and Victoria preceded New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The standard wages prevailing in the colony may be 
 correctly judged of by the table I have drawn up in 
 chapter i. They are always higher, and sometimes 
 double the existing wages in England. In New 
 Zealand even the boys in the fish canneries during the 
 busy season can earn 1 per week. Lest employers 
 should be discouraged, I may state that a New Zealand 
 workman, mechanic, or artizan, fed upon an abundance 
 of animal food (p. 204), can do more work in eight 
 hours than a poorly fed Lancashire operative or a half- 
 starved East Londoner. The Chartist rhyme 
 
 " Eight hours' work, eight hours' play, 
 Eight hours' sleep and eight bob a da}'," 
 
 has long been realized in this colony, often called " the 
 paradise of the working-man." But employment is 
 not constant, and house-rent is a heavy expense. 
 
 There seems to be a widespread belief in the colony 
 among the proletariat that it is the duty of the Govern- 
 ment in " slack times " to find or make work for the 
 unemployed. This is quite a fallacy, for the Govern- 
 ment of New Zealand never makes any such contract 
 with the immigrant, and my working-men readers 
 should clearly understand this. Just now only the 
 classes of immigrants mentioned as being needed by 
 the colony in my first chapter may expect to find 
 immediate employment. High wages in a colony are 
 often accompanied by irregularity or inconstancy of 
 employment. Political economists, who are also prac- 
 tical men, tell us that these high wages cannot be long 
 maintained in New Zealand even by the powerful 
 trades unions. They say that New Zealand will lag 
 behind the older Australasian colonies until wages are 
 reduced (by immigration or other caxises) to a point at 
 which capital can make its favourite manufactures. 
 
 o
 
 194 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 pay. A clever engineer and large employer of labour, 
 Mr. W. N. Blair, dealt ably with this and other cognate 
 questions affecting the industrial development of this 
 colony in an address delivered to the Industrial Asso- 
 ciation of Canterbury at Christchurch, February 24, 
 1887. I quote the following passage, which would 
 have been emphatically hooted by any colonial audience 
 of working-men, but seems to have been approved by 
 the Association : " In New Zealand we want, most of 
 all, men, women, and children ' all sorts and conditions 
 of men,' and of all ' kindreds and tongues,' to develop 
 the varied resources of the colony. Anglo-Saxons to 
 trade, grow corn, and drive engines, Italians to plant 
 olives, Frenchmen to make wine, and Mongolians to 
 grow tea and tobacco." 
 
 These ideas are good from one point of view, but it 
 would be much more in accordance with the fitness of 
 things and with Sir George Grey's oft-repeated patriotic 
 wish, were the colony's need of population supplied 
 solely from the overcrowded old country by harmonious 
 co-operation between the Imperial and New Zealand 
 Governments on the one hand, and between the 
 Home Emigration Societies and colonial Chambers of 
 Commerce on the other. These Chambers of Commerce 
 are really representative practical associations, and are 
 acquainted with the kinds of labour needed from time 
 to time by the different districts of New Zealand. 
 Settlers from European countries having special know- 
 ledge of particular industries (e.g. wine-making) should 
 be welcomed to New Zealand, as indeed they are, but 
 not in too large numbers. Having seen the detrimental 
 effects upon the city of San Francisco of a large 
 Mongolian element, I am opposed to the influx of any 
 Asiatic nationality into this Anglo-Saxon colony. 
 
 Legislation regarding the employment of females and 
 children in the various industries is both sensible 
 and humane, and well enforced by the Government 
 inspectors. I will give a few particulars. " No child 
 under twelve may be employed in a factory. No 
 female or child under fourteen may be employed at
 
 PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. 195 
 
 night, or for more than eight hours a day ; but a boy 
 or girl of fourteen may be employed for ten hours a 
 day for four days a week in fruit-preserving, fish-curing, 
 or newspaper printing." Proper ventilation in work- 
 rooms and factories, and an interval for meals every 
 four and a half hours, are also strictly enforced. 
 Thus the milliners, dressmakers, tailoresses, and boot- 
 sewers of this colony have a much happier time (when 
 employed) than their sisters in England. 
 
 The simple and inexpensive Patent Law of New 
 Zealand encourages the inventiveness of the New 
 Zealander to such an extent co-operating, I suppose, 
 with the stimulating climate that of late years there 
 have been produced more patents per head of the popu- 
 lation than in the hitherto most inventive nation in 
 the world, the United States. But as comparison of this 
 kind to be effective must be made by a careful study of 
 trustworthy statistics extending over a long series of 
 years, I merely mention this fact as a singular one, 
 which the future may either make temporary or 
 permanent. 
 
 Certain it is, that in all branches of art and decorative 
 industry New Zealanders take precedence, despite 
 their small numbers, the youth of the colony, and the 
 absence of Art Schools, Museums of Design in fact, of 
 all the finer developments of South Kensington train- 
 ing of all the other Australasian Colonies. I could 
 enlarge on this subject for several pages, but will not 
 lest 1 weary the reader, and seem to " blow " about my 
 favourite- colony. 
 
 It would be well for the exporter of English goods to 
 New Zealand, and for the emigrant, to make himself 
 accurately acquainted with the tariff in that colony, 
 the rates of which have been lately raised for revenue 
 purposes. Brett's Auckland Almanac, published 
 annually, generally towards the end of October, 
 contains the full, accurate, and revised duties, both 
 fixed and ad valorem, on every article that is liable to 
 pay, also the duty-free articles. The almanac for 1890 
 is published in New Zealand in October, 1889, reaching 
 
 o 2
 
 196 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 this country in December, 1889. And at any time the 
 tariff can be obtained from the Agent-general's office in 
 London. 
 
 New Zealand is a country having all the natural 
 resources in air, water, coal, iron, wool, sea-coast, 
 and climate for manufactures ; but its inhabitants 
 must not be impatient in attempting to rival the 
 mother country, or to become prematurely " self- 
 contained." Rather should a genuine demand for an 
 .article of manufacture, when that need has for some 
 time existed in their own colony, be gradually supplied. 
 This will be a following out of the ordinary Law of 
 Supply and Demand,instead of a " hot-house cultivation " 
 of plants that shoot, indeed, quickly up, but are apt to 
 fade and die. The recent want that has sprung up in 
 the United States for " binder twine," made out of New 
 Zealand hemp (Phormium tenax), is an example of the 
 natural demand and supply. This fibre has proved such 
 a failure in making cables for use at sea, on account of 
 the swelling of the gum still remaining in it, that rope- 
 makers have given it up in disgust, after losing heavily 
 upon it. 
 
 On the other hand, the discovery by the coachmakers 
 of New York and London of a gum that is equal in 
 purity, lowness of melting-point, and hardness when 
 dry to kauri gum (pp. 185, 186), and cheaper, has so 
 lowered the price of the latter as to suggest to New 
 Zealand that it ought to make its own coach-varnish 
 cut of this and other materials, which is now being 
 clone.
 
 ( 197 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Its heartiness and unconventionally Tourists' mistakes and 
 exaggerations Ups and downs Ruling forces in society 
 Nouveaux riches The highest education and culture of England 
 appreciated by colonial parents Neighbourly kindness Fire ! 
 Hospitality Effects of meat-eating on Character The "larri- 
 kin" How to cure "larrikinism" Recreation out of doors 
 Cricket, football, tennis, cycling Indoor amusements Rinkin^ 
 - --Lectures -Chess, Shakspeare, Dramatic clubs Music, concerts, 
 amateur singers Professional teachers A musical colony Art, 
 artists, and Art Exhibitions Literature Amateur science 
 Happy and unhappy Homes Drinking customs "Lambing 
 down" The sl>iu by drink Conclusion. 
 
 IN New Zealand, the man who is adaptable to new 
 conditions, and of a sympathetic nature, and who is not 
 too old to learn, will find social life (as I have found it) 
 very enjoyable, whether in town, or in the country. The 
 reception given to such an one, whether man or 
 woman, combines both English kindness, Australian 
 heartiness, and the readiness to make a new neighbour 
 feel " at home," that is characteristic of the Great 
 Republic. Without disparagement to the United States, 
 where I lived for nearly three years among many kind 
 friends, nor to the dear Old Country, from which my 
 heart has never been severed, I can truly say that my 
 wife and I have formed the most genuine, helpful, and, 
 we trust, lifelong friendships in the Colony of New 
 Zealand. We felt, indeed, on quitting its shores for the 
 old country that we were leaving home for a cold and 
 strange foreign land ! To the observant Englishman 
 whose heart is not sterilized by the moryue so condemned 
 by our French neighbours, nor by the lust for gold, the
 
 198 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 new life he leads in New Zealand derives a zest not 
 only from its freedom, sincerity, and unconventionality, 
 but from the many quaint and out-of-the-way characters 
 he encounters, both in and out of " society." We must 
 remember en passant that " Society" as well as society 
 exists in New Zealand, though it is not quite as 
 exclusive as in Belgravia. The passing-round-the- 
 world traveller seldom sees actual New Zealand Society ; 
 and when he writes his inevitable book (of which crime 
 I am also guilty, no doubt, but not of what follows) is 
 prone to fill in his hasty sketches with the colouring of 
 fancy. What vivid pictures of " life in New Zealand " 
 we should obtain, for example, from Mr. W. J. Prater, 
 as quoted in the Otago Daily Times ! At Wellington 
 he writes that he saw " a number of men wearing red 
 jackets and bound together by a long chain, marching 
 through the streets. They are guarded by several 
 officials in uniform with rifles under their arms and 
 revolvers by their side. This strange procession is the 
 prisoners who have been at work on the roads, and are 
 now returning home to dinner." The words I have 
 italicized are embellishments of Mr. P.'s fancy, while the 
 rest of the paragraph is accurate enough. At Waimate 
 Mr. Prater visited " the humble abode of two wood- 
 cutters," who were " cutting timber in the midst of bush 
 containing black men and wild animals." " Before 
 retiring to rest," he continues, "a huge fire was lit 
 outside the house. This precaution was necessary in 
 order to prevent wild animals and other disagreeable 
 creatures from approaching too near. A sentry was on 
 guard all night, armed with a rifle and revolver." All 
 this is highly dramatic, but as there are no wild animals 
 in the colony, I suppose that Mr. Prater, who elsewhere 
 states that " travel has increased his knowledge of the 
 world and its inhabitants," felt bound to spice his 
 brochure with some adventure, even if imaginary. 
 " Minor inaccuracies, such as the statement that ' Port 
 Chalmers is generally named the Bluff,' we may let 
 pass, but we draw the line at wild animals," concludes 
 the Otago Times.
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 199 
 
 It is only when one settles down in the colony for 
 some years that one gets into touch with the residents, 
 and enters fully into the thoughts, ways, and actions of 
 colonial life. What a chapter I could write on the 
 eccentrics I have met in New Zealand ! What un- 
 developed geniuses, what utter bores, what strange and 
 queer men and women, still, (so far as I know), outside 
 the Whau (or, as it now is politely named, Avondale) 
 Asylum ! Perhaps some day I may give my reminis- 
 cences, but meantime forbear. That there is a dis- 
 tinction between life in Australia and life in New Zea- 
 land is sufficiently shown by the difference between the 
 scenes, events, and characters in Mrs. Campbell Praed's 
 successful romances (" Policy and Passion," for instance) 
 and those two typical New Zealand books, Miss Clara 
 Cheeseman's "A Eolling Stone," and Lady Barker's 
 " Station Life in New Zealand." The former clever 
 novel contains admirably drawn scenes and illus- 
 trations of genuine New Zealand life and character. 
 Among others I can readily identify the " pro- 
 fessor of music" and old Wasley, of Waitakerei, the 
 lovely forest scenery so eloquently described by the 
 authoress. In most parts of the book the scene is laid 
 in towns, where, of course, the quaintest characters 
 usually congregate. That too common event, a house 
 on fire, is graphically described ; and the wreck of a 
 steamer on the coast (the ill-fated Tararua, evidently), 
 is told with all the skill of a practised novelist, though 
 I am informed that this is a " maiden work." 
 
 The latter book is a simple and graphic account of 
 country life in New Zealand, in the Middle Island, 
 which is made so attractive that it has induced many 
 visitors to go out to the colony to try it. " Station life " 
 has become more artificial and mechanical since Lady 
 Barker's day. In a very democratic country such as 
 New Zealand, where there is no aristocracy of birth or 
 intellect to elevate society, where wealth, fluency of 
 speech, and political influence seem to be the ruling 
 forces in the community, the visitor might expect to 
 find the entire social " tone " lower than at home. But
 
 200 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 my long experience of all strata of the mixed multitude 
 has led me to the conclusion, different to that of some 
 writers on the subject, that the average level of the 
 intellectual and social life of New Zealand is not 
 only higher than that of the other Australasian colonies, 
 but that it is attaining, as time goes on, a still higher 
 elevation. This high level is certainly not promoted 
 by the so-called " society papers " of the colony, rather 
 the reverse ; the chief factors in this upward movement 
 are the deepening and extending love of art, learning, 
 literature, science, and the noble ambition, often fired by 
 Sir George Grey's popular addresses, of founding a New 
 Zealand nation upon the highest models of the age. 
 
 For, though the hardheaded, pushing, shrewd, money- 
 making trader rather than the man of intellect and 
 culture, acquires the reins of political and social power, 
 yet education, culture, refinement, and learning do make 
 their influence felt even in this utilitarian community. 
 No one can doubt that not only natural gifts, but the high 
 culture, dignity of manner, and the friendship with the 
 " men of light and leading " of the day, possessed by Sir 
 George Grey, have made him the orator of New Zealand, 
 and given him the power to sway public opinion by his 
 utterances. But in his rush through this colony, (or a 
 fringe of it, so to speak,) the traveller is not usually 
 fortunate enough to meet personally the real " makers 
 of the country," but, coming across loud-voiced, coarse 
 men, who " blow," as the colonial word is, only about 
 themselves, their achievements, and their district or 
 town not the whole colony, else one might forgive them 
 he hastily and inaccurately puts these blatant 
 nouveaux riches into his book (libellus, as Horace would 
 term it) as representatives of New Zealand Society. 
 One has to live there for years to understand the com- 
 ponent parts and characteristics of " Society " and 
 society. For my own part I do not attempt to 
 analyze it in these pages of plain talk ; it is kaleido- 
 scopic to a degree ; but of social life and the forces that 
 sway it I can give an accurate idea. The same ups 
 and downs that occur in older countries take place in
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 201 
 
 New Zealand more often, more rapidly, and are less 
 noticed. In the course of nine years' residence I have 
 witnessed six changes of Government, four changes of 
 Native Lands Court policy ; wholesale dismissals of 
 Government officers ; the civil service remodelled ; and 
 many unaccountable removals of head officials. In 
 commercial life I have seen the Bank of New Zealand 
 in great trouble ; two suicides through losses in land ; 
 a tradesman become bankrupt three times; several 
 merchants high in society move down from their grand 
 mansions into cottages ; and finally, some of them leave 
 the colony at their friends' expense. I have seen 
 fashionable ladies left destitute widows, and doctors 
 apparently doing a large practice die, leaving their 
 families nearly paupers. " Grass widows " and " grass 
 widowers " abound in New Zealand ; and deserted 
 wives have a hard struggle. On the other hand I have 
 seen a shabbily dressed mechanic who could not write 
 his own name bequeath a large fortune to the most 
 noble ends the relief of the poor and the aged. Viewing 
 society as a whole, in any of the larger cities of New 
 Zealand, I regard its elements as almost as mixed and 
 shifting as those of a Western city in America. If an 
 " old identity," a self-made man, is genuine, honest, and 
 kindhearted, one soon learns to overlook mere breaches 
 of pronunciation, of dress, and of manners. The new- 
 comer, whether old, young, or middle-aged, should always 
 make the acquaintance, and if possible the friendship, 
 of some of these colonists. One thing is much to be 
 admired in these rough diamonds, namely, their desire 
 to give their children the highest education attainable 
 in the colony ; and even in many cases to send their 
 boys to an English university for a degree, and their 
 girls to London for the season. Nothing could show 
 more plainly than this custom of sending their children 
 Home to finish their education, the parents' regard for 
 the best interests of their family, and their deep 
 appreciation of the value of that higher education which 
 had been denied to them by the circumstances of their 
 early life.
 
 202 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 As regards getting into " Society," it is easier for a 
 new comer in New Zealand than in the English 
 provinces. To be able to play an instrument of music ; 
 to dance or to sing passably (especially a comic song) ; 
 to live in good style, and to wear good clothes these 
 are the essentials for admission into " society." A 
 newly arrived family occupying a good house will find 
 many of the neighbours will call without any formal 
 introduction. Such is the friendly colonial fashion. 
 Neighbours in New Zealand are very kind and helpful 
 in sickness, fire, accident, or any other domestic mis- 
 fortune ; therefore an English lady though, if reserved 
 and of retiring habits, she may be slightly startled at 
 first at these colonial ways would do well to return 
 the calls, for she will thus acquire a large number 
 of acquaintances, among whom in due time real friends 
 may be found. In the freedom of selection thus gained, 
 affinities seek each other, heart becomes linked to heart, 
 and " home sickness," from which Englishwomen suffer 
 more than Englishmen, gradually disappears. In all 
 my "globe-trotting," I have nowhere seen such an 
 amount of lovely self-sacrifice ito others to the lonely 
 stranger just arrived, it may be, dying of consumption ; 
 or to the orphans and widows, many a time sent home 
 by the subscriptions of those who could ill afford the 
 money ; or in starting again an honest man who has 
 failed in business as I have witnessed in New Zealand. 
 
 The Kauri pine being the favourite building material 
 for houses, fire is much dreaded, especially as kerosene 
 lamps constitute the favourite means of illumination in 
 the poorer dwellings. Perhaps the commonest cause is 
 the placing of Taupiri coal ashes in a wooden box at 
 night, and leaving it against the wall of the house or 
 next to a wooden fence. The heat is retained in the 
 ashes for an extraordinary length of time, and, if a 
 wind is blowing, the box may take fire, and from it the 
 house. Such events are common in towns, and 
 necessitate prompt action on the part of neighbours to 
 save each other's property. Lives are seldom lost, 
 because the majority of houses have only one storey. I
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 203 
 
 remember one summer night a fine two-storey new house, 
 standing opposite to mine in Symonds Street, being 
 burnt to the ground in twenty minutes, the owner and 
 his son barely escaping with their lives, the alarm not 
 having been given promptly enough to the fire brigade, 
 which is an excellent one. The next house, owned and 
 occupied by a medical friend of mine, was badly 
 scorched, and just escaped the same fate. We worked 
 like Trojans, hauling out his pictures, furniture, &c., 
 and two neighbours in deshabille kept their garden hose 
 playing upon the walls and roof till the brigade 
 appeared. Brick houses are thought to be damp in 
 the winter, but a well- dried concrete house is both cool 
 in summer, easily warmed up in winter, and proof 
 against fire. In the matter of hospitality New Zealand 
 scarcely displays that profuse open-handed treatment 
 of visitors, whether provided with introductions or not, 
 offered by Australia. As a rule, a New Zealander likes 
 an introductory letter, wants to know something about 
 the new-comer, and so on, as in England. But if he 
 likes you at first sight being a thorough believer in 
 his own judgment he will treat you handsomely even 
 without introduction; and in the country districts 
 especially you will find a hearty hospitality, such as 
 one reads of in old-fashioned books. The old settler 
 has witnessed the advent of so many " wastrels " and 
 baneful adventurers under a respectable guise that he 
 is, with reason, cautious in his reception of new-comers. 
 It has been observed that climate, scenery, and food 
 have a powerful influence in modifying the character of 
 a race of men imported into, and not indigenous to, a 
 country. I consider that the characteristics of the New 
 Zealander of British, not Maori blood, have been altered 
 to some degree by his environment. It may be but a 
 whimsical notion, but I have noticed, while studying 
 the psychological features of New Zealand-born youths, 
 that some of the Maori tendencies have been imparted 
 to them. A certain stoicism and unimpressiveness are 
 noticeable about native-born New Zealanders. For 
 instance, in visiting London they never seem astonished
 
 204 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 at anything; nor can they " enthuse " over "Westminster 
 Abbey, St. Paul's, the Tower, Windsor Castle, or any 
 of the "show places." 1 cannot explain this, except 
 on the above theory, although well acquainted with all 
 shades and grades of colonial character. 
 
 There may be nothing in the theory that an excessive 
 meat diet conduces to hardness and even cruelty of 
 disposition ; but it is a fact that the flesh-eating and 
 cannibalistic Maori of the recent past was conspicuously 
 callous and cruel, quite unlike his &m>-eating cousins, 
 the Samoans and Hawaiians. 
 
 Now, it is a striking coincidence that the adult 
 Anglo-Saxon in New Zealand consumes an average 
 amount of 200 to 250 Ibs. of meat in the course of a 
 year, while the American is content with 120 Ibs. and 
 Briton with 110 Ibs. The police-court records of New 
 Zealand show the existence of a large and increasing 
 class of evil-doers, termed " larrikins " or street-roughs, 
 who are usually well fed on meat chiefly. The 
 " larrikin " is an unfeeling, callous, and cruel fellow, 
 more ready to rob, knock down, and otherwise maltreat 
 a feeble old woman, defenceless girl, or drunken man 
 than to tight a policeman. Corrupted and-incited to bad 
 ways by a few rapscallions exported by their friends, 
 or who had come as " shilling-a-month men " from 
 London, New York, or San Francisco, these fellows are 
 becoming a terror to all peaceful citizens. Yet there is 
 in many of them a daring, an intelligence, and restless 
 energy and ingenuity which might be turned to better 
 ends. An excellent cure for " larrikinism " in the sea- 
 port cities, might be found in the establishment of a 
 training-ship like the Conway at Liverpool, for those 
 who would take up the sea as a profession. Another 
 " cure " would be the formation of a Cadet Corps of 
 Volunteers in every town of a certain size, officered by 
 educated men, kindly yet firm, who would drill them, 
 enforce strict discipline ; yet become personally inte- 
 rested in the rank and file; and give them all the 
 recreation and freedom that is possible. I have seen 
 several of these "larrikins," under the force of an
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND, 205 
 
 awakened conscience and of kindness, reform, and 
 become useful and honourable citizens. Certain it is, 
 that unless the misdirected activity of these lads be 
 guided into harmless or beneficial channels, their 
 lawlessness will become a real danger to the colony. 
 
 I must now speak of the recreations which so 
 diversify and brighten social life in this colony. 
 Through its mild yet invigorating climate, its long 
 summer, and the shortness of the customary hours of 
 labour, New Zealand offers many facilities for open-air 
 amusements. Therefore picnics, excursions, and riding- 
 parties, drives, bowls, lawn-tennis, cricket, and football, 
 are very much in vogue. In Auckland alone (with its 
 suburbs) there were in 1888 no less than fifty clubs 
 or associations for outdoor amusements 12 cricket- 
 clubs, 22 football clubs, 10 yacht and boating clubs, 
 and six bowling and tennis clubs. Some of these sports 
 can be enjoyed all the year round in the North Island. 
 Golfing is also played with great enthusiasm by the 
 Scottish settlers in the Middle Island ; and in some 
 winters, with a harder frost than usual, curling and 
 skating may be enjoyed there. So great is the interest 
 exhibited by the populace of the cities in the visit of a 
 cricket or football team, that the mayor is importuned 
 to grant a public holiday or half-holiday on the day of 
 the match. To the employer of labour this practice 
 means the loss of a day's wages and a day's work, while 
 to the employed it means an extra holiday on full pay. 
 As the colonial, postal, and bank holidays are already 
 more numerous in New Zealand than at home, these 
 extra holidays, sometimes falling upon mail -day, are not 
 a little inconvenient to business men, who often pro- 
 test against this growing custom. But the employes 
 always carry the day, for the mayor is elected, as in the 
 United States, by the general body of townspeople, and 
 he seldom cares to risk unpopularity by refusing the 
 holiday. 
 
 Gymnasia are not numerous in the colony, but those 
 that exist are of first-class quality and seem to be well 
 patronised.
 
 206 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Volunteering is decidedly popular in the colony, 
 although one sees complaints in the newspapers of the 
 parsimony of the Government as to grants for outfit, 
 capitation fees, and so forth. Now and then there is a 
 little disturbance in a Corps, because there are more 
 candidates for officers' commissions than can possibly 
 be appointed. As the Royal holidays (Queen's Birth- 
 day, &c.) and Easter week all fall in the warm season 
 of the year, the volunteer corps have many opportu- 
 nities of camp-training. Their physique is noticeably 
 superior to that of the average British volunteer. 
 Their numbers fluctuate considerably, because of the 
 frequent removal of the privates from one part of the 
 colony to another, to fulfil the requirements of business. 
 The official return of the number of volunteers of all 
 ranks on March 31, 1888, was as follows : 
 
 North Island 3632 effectives, including cavalry, 
 artillery, engineers, naval artillery, mounted in- 
 fantry, and riflemen. Middle Island 4432 effectives, 
 comprising the same division as those of the North 
 Island, with the addition of 69 honorary reserve men. 
 Total for the whole colony, 8064 effective volunteers. 
 There were also at this date 2773 cadets enrolled. 
 
 As there is a law of compulsory service in the 
 militia, in case of invasion in the colony, these 
 volunteers would in such event prove most useful 
 cadres for the uudrilled recruits. 
 
 The last two winters I spent in New Zealand were 
 characterized by a mania for Sinking. Kinks were 
 opened in every town and in every suburb. Despite 
 bruises, fractures, dislocations, sprains, and the doubtful 
 acquaintances made in these halls by young ladies, there 
 seemed to be a fascination about the tedious circling 
 round a floor on imitation skates, to the music of a 
 noisy band, amidst dust of a pine -splintery nature, and 
 in the heat of a crowded gas-lit room, against which no 
 other amusement could compete. I once went into 
 the Choral Hall, Auckland (used one evening a week 
 for rinking) and the scene reminded me of Leland's 
 h amorous lines upon cycling :
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 207 
 
 " The dimes that Breitmann doomble 
 
 In learning for to ride, 
 Vas oftener as de sand grains 
 Dat rollen in der tide." 
 
 The tumbling, indeed, at the rink seemed part of the 
 fun, but it generally turned out no joke to the rinker 
 who was undermost in the heap of sprawling, entangled 
 humanity. The glamour of the roller-skate was that of 
 the bicycle : 
 
 "... The best of it, you bet, 
 
 Vas that man could go so nicely 
 Pefore he got oopset." 
 
 In winter the indoor amusements of the New Zea- 
 landers are as varied as they are in England. Clubs 
 for chess, whist, Shakspeare reading, amateur acting, 
 arid opera flourish. Choral and orchestral societies 
 give their performances, and dinners, dances, evening 
 parties, church socials, and entertainments of all kinds 
 are numerous. At dinner parties there is less formal 
 stiffness than in England ; men reveal their ideas more 
 frankly and genially, and do not assume an unnatural 
 frigidity, or a professional raconteur style along with 
 their evening dress. After dinner there is always 
 plenty of good music and singing in the drawing-room. 
 Speaking of dinners, I may mention that there are 
 excellent clubs in every large New Zealand town, where 
 visitors may be entered as honorary members for one 
 month. The cuisine of the very best New Zealand 
 clubs stands well the closest criticism of a London 
 gastronome, particularly when its best efforts are dis- 
 played on the occasion of a banquet to some distin- 
 guished visitor, or to a popular member who is leaving 
 the city. 
 
 There is nothing corresponding to the "London 
 season " in New Zealand, unless it be that pale imita- 
 tion of it called " The Wellington season " from April 
 or May, till the end of July when the colonial Parlia- 
 ment is in session. At that time an unusual bustle 
 and gaiety prevail in the breezy city. " There is a sound
 
 208 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 of revelry by night ; " the theatre is open every night 
 with something attractive, the ministers give dinners, 
 balls, and evening parties, and the Governor holds his 
 levees. 
 
 There is no particular time of the year which may be 
 called the "lecture season," as with us in England. 
 Professional lecturers take New Zealand in the course 
 of their Antipodean tour, as it suits them. Occasionally 
 an eminent man, like Joseph Cook, of Boston, delivers 
 a lecture while the mail steamer stays in port ; and we 
 are very glad to obtain a glimpse and a hearing of 
 one whose works had stirred our hearts and intellects. 
 But systematic lecture courses, well advertised and 
 " paragraphed " in the newspapers, are usually successful 
 at any time of the year. To really ensure large 
 audiences night after night, lectures must be bright, 
 terse, not too heavy in facts and figures, and relieved 
 by music or lantern illustrations. I remember that 
 R. A. Proctor, Archibald Forbes, G. A. Sala, and Major 
 Dane achieved a complete success in New Zealand, the 
 four large cities vying with each other to give the 
 lecturer the largest audience. In the country districts 
 settlers will strain their slender exchequer and ride 
 long distances in stormy weather in order to hear some 
 favourite preacher or lecturer ; and woe to him who gives 
 them chaff for wheat ! 
 
 Having occasionally lectiired on scientific and literary 
 subjects " Plant Life," " Shakspeare and Euphuism," 
 " Esoteric Buddhism," " Longfellow," " Tennyson's 
 Lyrics," " The Sphygmograph," and others the writer 
 can testify how intelligent and appreciative New 
 Zealand audiences are. In five or ten minutes the 
 speaker feels thoroughly en rapport with those he is 
 addressing. 
 
 Throughout New Zealand, especially in the North 
 Island, excursions and picnics by sea and land are 
 rendered easy and delightful by the great advantages of 
 a long steady summer, good springs, and streams of 
 pure water everywhere, and the plentiful choice of 
 picturesque spots of country, absolutely free from
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 209 
 
 snakes, " wild animals," or poisonous insects (except 
 the very rare Katipo, a small black spider marked by a 
 red spot) ; from malaria ; and from shrubs which exhale 
 poisonous emanations, like the Rhus diversiloba of 
 California. Merry parties of young people are very 
 seldom broken up by a thunderstorm, hail, or rain, as in 
 Britain ; and the proximity of good excursion places to 
 the towns in New Zealand does away with the necessity 
 of a dull tiring journey home by rail, 'bus, or cab, which 
 at Home often neutralises or mars the enjoyment of " a 
 day in the country," or a " sniff of the briny." 
 
 Many a time and oft have 1 longed to transport to 
 dear old cloudy England year by year becoming more 
 of a vast city some lovely bit of forest scenery the 
 sky above of the purest blue, the " bush " below rich in 
 evergreen trees and shrubs, interlaced with creeping 
 and climbing plants, and carpeted with flowers in the 
 centre a ferny dell, with a waterfall whose soothing 
 music blends with the strange notes of the native birds 
 the loud clear " ping " of the parson-bird (tui), the 
 staccato cries of the tree-parrot (kaka) and the delicious 
 three-note-chime of the bell-bird (Icorimalco). Scenes 
 like these give inspiration to the local artists and form 
 the chief charm and attraction of the local Art Exhibi- 
 tions in the chief cities of the colony. But nature 
 cannot be perfectly reproduced on canvas ; and I have 
 enjoyed scenery in this colony which transcends in 
 weird beauty anything that has come within my ex- 
 perience in England, America, and Australia. 
 
 The enjoyment of the country is enhanced, let me 
 assure the reader who may think of visiting New Zea- 
 land, by some knowledge of the art of photography. 
 Nearly all the year round it is easy to obtain in that 
 clear atmosphere well-defined photographs. I advise 
 tourists to bring a camera of the latest type, and to 
 take views as they pass along, which may be developed 
 and printed by the photographers of the towns in which 
 they make a stay. Thus a permanent and most inte- 
 resting record of their New Zealand tour may be 
 brought home. From experience I can state that there 
 
 P
 
 210 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 is a great fascination abont amateur photography, 
 especially abont one's failures ! 
 
 In the social life of the people of New Zealand, art 
 and mnsic are becoming important elements ; and this 
 is one of the good omens for the future of the nation. 
 Excellent exhibitions of paintings are held annually in 
 each of the four centres, Auckland, Wellington, Christ- 
 church, and Dunedin. In Auckland, where the Society 
 of Arts (of which I was one of the original committee) 
 manage the annual exhibition, there are never less 
 than from 250 to 300 original oil or water-colour 
 pictures presented for public inspection. Some, in each 
 year, are of great merit, and the sales are very satis- 
 factory, in good times. Landscape, still life, and flowers 
 are the predominant subjects, drawing from the live 
 model having only very recently been introduced into 
 the art school. The majority of the pictures are by 
 " amateur " artists, many of whom add to their income 
 by the sale of their works; and even of the "pro- 
 fessional " artists in Auckland, most aie self-educated 
 men whose innate genius and perseverance in the lines 
 of study (nature chiefly) accessible to them have 
 triumphed over deficiencies in their Art-training. Take, 
 for example, not invidiously to other artists however, 
 Mr. Charles Blomfield, who was originally a carpenter. 
 He has created for himself a world-wide fame as the 
 painter of the Pink and White sinter Terraces, which 
 were destroyed, to our grief and dismay, in the terrible 
 event described in chapter vii. The peculiarly in- 
 tense blue of the water in the basins of both Terraces, 
 and the roseate pink shading, like the hues of dawn, of 
 the steps of the Pink Terrace have been caught by him 
 in a marvellously accurate manner. The figure-drawing, 
 too, for which he used to be so sharply criticized, has 
 greatly improved, and the introduction of life into his 
 landscapes adds just the feature that was wanting. 
 Space forbids mention of Ball, Drummond, Sturtevant, 
 and others whose artistic development has been most 
 creditable. It is pleasant to see how cordially both 
 professionals and amateurs work upon the committees
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 211 
 
 of these art societies, and to see pictures by both classes 
 of artists hung impartially, according to their merits. 
 
 Much encouragement of late has been given in Auck- 
 land by the Society of Arts to Decorative Household 
 Art, with the result of educing much latent talent and 
 taste, and of brightening the colonial home by beauti- 
 fying its interior. The number and variety of the 
 native woods, so exquisite when inlaid and polished, 
 further the latter desirable result. One family I knew 
 intimately, whose home I never visited without finding 
 some new object of art, the work of the young ladies of 
 the house ; some painted panel or plaque ; some em- 
 broidered bird or flower ; some hand-painted mirror or 
 card ; exemplifying not only the taste but the originality 
 of its artist. All the young people of this family could 
 sing at sight, and each could play some instrument 
 the violin being the favourite. No one becoming well 
 acquainted with such Auckland homes could truthfully 
 call the modern New Zealander a " Philistine." 
 
 A sincere love for music is diffused throughout New 
 Zealand. At the risk of being condemned by the 
 Wellingtonians, Christchurchmen, and Dunedinites as a 
 fanatical Aucklander, I have clearly pointed out in 
 chapter iv. the pre-eminence of that city in the de- 
 velopment of the divine art. What is needed now 
 for its further culture is a complete Academy of Music 
 in one of the large cities, and a musical festival (with- 
 out prizes for brass-bands, and all that nonsense) to be 
 held triennially in each of the four local capitals in 
 rotation, managed by a standing committee of really 
 musical amateurs, carefully selected from these cities. 
 Nothing would give a greater impetus to choral and 
 instrumental music than this move, which I commend 
 to the present Governor of New Zealand, and to those 
 in high places there, who love the " Art Divine " for its 
 own sake. 
 
 Singing from musical notation being now made a 
 compulsory subject in the primary schools of the colony, 
 the ear of a child is trained from an early age. The 
 boy or girl who is really musical carries on the singing, 
 
 p 2
 
 212 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 first of Sankey's Hymns, and Christy's songs, and then 
 by joining a choral society, where " singing at sight " is 
 usually required, becomes familiarized with high-class 
 modern music. Almost every cottage in New Zealand 
 contains a piano or American organ. The choirs of 
 churches and the organ-playing have received favour- 
 able notice from most travellers. It has come to pass 
 that amateur vocalists, soprani and bassi being more 
 numerous than alti and tenori, are so numerous and of 
 such good quality that a concert is looked upon as the 
 readiest means of raising funds for religious or bene- 
 volent purposes. But this " readiness to oblige " has 
 another side. The services of amateur singers being 
 always gratis, it is difficult for a resident professional 
 vocalist to make a living in the same city. If he relies 
 on teaching, there is not much encouragement in the 
 fact brought to my knowledge by a music teacher in 
 1888, namely, that qualified professors of music were 
 giving shilling lessons ! Probably terms may have 
 improved, pari passu with the improvement in the 
 times, since that date. The reader can thus understand 
 that it is not difficult for the artizan in full work, who 
 receives 8s. to 10s. a day, to be able to give at least one 
 of his family a musical education. The tenor of the 
 day becomes soon a spoiled favourite, so greatly is he 
 sought after ; but I was amused to see that when he 
 begins to put a price upon his voice his public engage- 
 ments cease at least in Auckland. 
 
 Elocution is not so much studied in New Zealand as 
 music and painting ; but now and then a young man 
 shows conspicuous talent as a reciter, and is then as 
 much in request as the tenor above mentioned. 
 
 Poetry (or rhyming) is much cultivated in New 
 Zealand, the Auckland and Wellington newspapers 
 generally overflowing with it. Sometimes a really 
 poetic insight and power of expression is revealed. I 
 wish that I had space to quote some of my clerical 
 friend E. H. G.'s verses. His poetic genius must have 
 slumbered until Auckland scenery and climate, and 
 perhaps " the storms of fate " also awoke it. Passing
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 213 
 
 to another subject amateur science as a recreation 
 the collections of coins, minerals, insects, shells, and so 
 forth, amassed by diligent workers in science in the 
 colony are astonishingly numerous and good. Captain 
 Broun, of Howick near Auckland, has made the most 
 complete collection of the Coleoptera in Australasia. 
 The formation in 1887 of the Australian Association 
 for the Advancement of Science gives just the impulse 
 that is needed to unite these scattered students of 
 science in one society, and thus utilize their detached 
 researches for the good of the whole scientific world. 
 
 The average New Zealand settler is very glad to 
 avail himself of the facilities near him in the shape of 
 Free Libraries, Mechanics' Institutes, Athenaeums, and 
 similar institutions (of which there are three hundred 
 in the colony), in order to supply the deficiencies of his 
 early education and to keep his reading well up to date. 
 Each monthly mail brings its shoal of English and 
 American books and magazines, and the bookseller who 
 is late or incorrect in delivering them to customers is 
 much berated. Having in a humble way striven to 
 promote the intellectual culture of Auckland by founding 
 Magazine Clubs, an Essay and Debating Club (the 
 " Kiwis ") and in conjunction with others the Athenaeum 
 of Auckland, I am in a position to state that there is a 
 real and increasing love for good literature, permanent 
 and serial, and a desire for the full and free discussion 
 of all questions of the day. Henry George's " Progress 
 and Poverty " aroused public attention in New Zealand 
 months before England was stirred up by its startling 
 problems. I congratulate the reading public of the 
 colonies in general, and of New Zealand in particular, 
 that two eminent London publishers (Macmillan and 
 Kegan Paul, Trench, & Co.) have brought out recently 
 special colonial editions of their publications, so that 
 good reading is brought within the reach of the many 
 who cannot afford the English prices, and have no 
 circulating library accessible. 
 
 There exists out at the Antipodes a vigour of un- 
 trammelled thought and a receptiveness of mind which,
 
 214 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 while tending on the one hand to lead some men into 
 unsettlement of religious faith, and into injurious 
 practices, such as spiritualism, or wild mystic theories 
 like Theosophy or Esoteric Buddhism, on the other 
 hand encourages many weaker intellects to emerge from 
 traditional grooves of thought into new truths, moral, 
 mental, and spiritual, which they might never have 
 found out in conventional England. There are also 
 unconventional methods of preaching Christian truth, 
 such as tent-missions, Salvation Army work, home Bible- 
 readings, which are doing a grand work in New 
 Zealand by counteracting the evil forces that exist in 
 new countries where high wages, plenty of play-time, 
 parental laxity, an independent spirit in children, free 
 social intercourse among young people, and a stimu- 
 lating climate, powerfully influence the social life of 
 the community. 
 
 Domestic life in New Zealand does not greatly differ 
 from that in England, except that, good servants being 
 scarce, and dear, the wife has to do more actual house- 
 hold work than in the old country. Notwithstanding 
 what I have to say later on regarding the drink 
 question, I believe that, class for class, there is a 
 smaller proportion of drunken husbands in the colony 
 than in Great Britain. Very seldom do the newspapers 
 report cases brought before the police courts of such 
 brutal assaults on wives and children made by men 
 under the influence of drink as one reads of every day 
 in the English newspapers. 
 
 Miss E. Katharine Bates, an observant traveller 
 (whom I met in Auckland), goes so far as to assert in 
 her book " Kaleidoscope, or Scenes from East tu West," 
 that nowhere in her travels had she " seen S) many 
 married couples who were happy as in this colony." 
 Contrast this with E. "W. Payton's impression : " The 
 normal condition of all housewives below that of the 
 upper middle class is that of overworked house drudges. 
 One result of this a sad breaking-down of character. 
 Women drink a good deal on the quiet and this reacts 
 on their temper, &c."
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 215 
 
 Mr. Payton must have derived his impressions from 
 some pessimist. I, who in the course of my professional 
 duties have gone into all classes of homes at all hours, 
 have seen neither evidences of secret drinking nor of 
 temper produced thereby. Probably the truth lies 
 between these two extremely opposite impressions. 
 
 This quotation leads me to point out plainly, but yet 
 in all kindness, what are the conspicuous blemishes in 
 the social life of New Zealand. I mean the prevalence 
 of gambling, immoderate drinking, and excessive 
 smoking. The totalisator, a betting machine highly 
 favoured all over the colonies, is the cause of ruin of 
 thousands of young men. By purchasing a ticket for 
 five or ten shillings each "subscriber " stands a chance 
 of winning a prize of from ten pounds to five hundred 
 pounds. It is a bad thing to waste money in buying 
 tickets which only draw blanks, but it is a worse thing 
 to win a prize, for then the gambling spirit is thoroughly 
 stimulated. I knew one fine young fellow who won 
 the large prize of a certain totalisator (400 I think 
 it was). He never did any good in the world afterwards. 
 I believe the New Zealand Government charge the 
 proprietor of such an instrument a fee for permission 
 to use it in public. If this be true it is a disgrace to 
 the Government; for the law of the colony against 
 gambling is so strict now, that even a clergyman who 
 gets up a bazaar or fancy fair has to ask the Colonial 
 Secretary for special permission to hold either a 
 " raffle " or an " Art Union." I hope I am inaccurately 
 informed ; for this is indeed " straining at a gnat and 
 swallowing a camel." 
 
 No Government can put down verbal betting, of course, 
 but it seems to me the bounden duty of the New 
 Zealand Government to enact a law to make the 
 totalisator or any similar machine as illegal as roulette 
 and rouge-et-noir are already. It is a pity to see such 
 innocent, healthful games, such as cricket, football, and 
 tennis, made the occasion for betting, as they are made 
 in the colonies. Naturally the horse-races, so beloved 
 by the mass of the colonists, are not free from the
 
 216 . NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 " speelers " and other blacklegs who in England haunt 
 these scenes and demoralise the old English sport. 
 
 The pernicious and increasing habit of young lads 
 beginning to smoke from the ages of nine or ten, is a vice 
 which is destroying the health of hundreds. It cannot 
 be met by prohibitive legislation, as a certain Legislative 
 Councillor, now deceased, wished to meet it. Parents 
 who themselves smoke should give it up as an example 
 to their boys, and should sternly discourage any smoking 
 by a boy until he is at least twenty years old. The 
 crude and strong tobacco leaf now grown and manu- 
 factured in New Zealand is deleterious to young smokers 
 because it is so rich in nicotine. I shall give in chapter 
 xii. definite reasons for these strong opinions. 
 
 Unnecessary and immoderate drinking of liquor, 
 chiefly in the form of "nipping," has grown into a 
 serious social evil, nursed by the injurious colonial 
 habit of treating friends and acquaintances to a drink 
 at any hour of the day they may chance to meet. 
 Standing treat all round goes by the singular term of 
 " shouting " in Australasia. Punch satirized this habit 
 in 1886, the Indian and Colonial Exhibition year, when 
 he had a cartoon representing Britannia bidding " adieu 
 to her Australian son, and his inexhaustible bottle." 
 
 The waste of time, health, and money, in the colony 
 caused by this custom is deplorable. Let me describe 
 the usual incident. A. meets B. whom he has not seen 
 for some days, perhaps. After the " How d'ye do ? " 
 A. says, "Have a drink, old fellow?" "Don't care if I 
 do," says B. All drinks being sixpence each, down 
 goes a shilling. Then B. treats A. two shillings. C. 
 comes in : " Hallo ! How d'ye do ? Will you join us ? " 
 " Thanks, I don't mind." Drinks all round ; three-and- 
 sixpence gone. Lastly C. " shouts " in return, perhaps 
 even B. also,l and all retire. Thus five or seven shillings, 
 and perhaps three quarters of an hour of the best 
 business time in the day, have been consumed ; and 
 none of the three men's heads are as clear for thought 
 and calculation as they had been before the " shouting." 
 I am glad to learn that this custom is on the decline
 
 SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 217 
 
 among educated people ; and that another baneful habit, 
 that of sealing orders given to commercial travellers by 
 a drink, is also going out of fashion. There are other 
 good signs of the spread of total abstinence. There is 
 an agitation in the School Boards for the adoption of 
 Dr. B. W. Eichardson's Temperance Lesson Book in 
 the primary schools ; the granting by law of Local 
 Option over the whole colony ; the general substitution 
 of tea and coffee for wine at afternoon calls and at 
 evening parties ; and the interesting fact observed by 
 ministers and clergymen that most of the native-born 
 youth (European race) are either abstemious or 
 total abstainers. 
 
 Among the degrading elements of social life in the 
 colony are those poor fellows who are kept in New 
 Zealand by money remitted by their friends in England 
 once a month, either direct to them or through trustees. 
 They are called " remittance men," and are a source of 
 trouble to everyone acquainted with them. Usually 
 they drink away the money within a few days of its 
 receipt and then go about borrowing until the next 
 mail comes in. They " shout " for other drinkers of a 
 lower grade who hang round the post-office, with that 
 object in view. 
 
 Among bushmen, shepherds, shearers, and others in 
 the country the cashing of the half-yearly cheque for 
 wages is made the occasion of a long drinking spree. 
 When the poor wretch comes to his senses he generally 
 finds himself lying on the road, robbed of everything 
 except his clothes. This little process by which the 
 publican is fattened and the bushman skinned is 
 facetiously called " lambing down." The victim walks 
 back to his employer's station, begging his meals on 
 the way and a shakedown in a stable at night : to 
 repeat the same folly at the end of another half-year. 
 " Many a man," says E. W. Payton, " who can earn 3 
 and live comfortably upon 1 per week will drink 
 away 2 and run into debt besides." 
 
 It is calculated by some profound temperance mathe- 
 matician that New Zealanders spend no less than three
 
 218 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 millions per annum upon drink! I can scarcely credit 
 this, but have not the figures by me to check it. There 
 must, however, be some connection between an inor- 
 dinate expenditure in alcohol and the comparatively 
 large number of lunatics in New Zealand, for the 
 records of the Asylums, which contained in 1886 
 over 1600 lunatics, show that alcoholism is the pre- 
 vailing cause of mental disease. 
 
 Sir Win. Fox, K.C.M.G., the eloquent and energetic 
 President of the United Kingdom Alliance in New 
 Zealand, has remarked that while people are horrified 
 at the appalling description of 10,000 corpses that were 
 found heaped up in one place' in the Johnstown, U.S., 
 disaster, they are never shocked at the thought of the 
 awful spectacle that would be presented were it pos- 
 sible to bring together the scattered bodies of the 
 thousands slain by drink in a single year. He states 
 further that 1500 deaths every year one for each 
 public-house in the colony are distinctly caused by 
 drink in New Zealand. But after all the " Britain of 
 the South " is a more sober country than its northern 
 prototype and parent. 
 
 In conclusion, I may sum up my impressions of 
 social life in New Zealand by saying that it is freer, 
 fuller, more friendly, more democratic, and more 
 original in development, than it is at Home. Though 
 the influence of the nearer United States is distinctly 
 felt the New Zealanders are yet thoroughly English, 
 with much of the Australian heartiness about them. 
 Any honest, industrious, self-respecting man or woman 
 can form a pleasant home among them, with facilities 
 for cultivating the mind and the taste, and for acquiring 
 a host of congenial friends.
 
 ( 219 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Openings for Practice, and prospects of new comers Age at which 
 to emigrate Outfit Registration Fees Clubs Working 
 Expenses of Practice Diseases prevalent among the Maoris 
 Native remedies Singular mode of reviving the apparently 
 drowned Decrease of the natives still going on Letter from a 
 missionary Diseases of the colonists Typhoid fever, its cause, 
 prevention, and death-rate The Exanthemata Diphtheria 
 maligna Poisoning from tinned meat and from Ptomaines 
 Phthisis pulmonalis Cases arrested by climate of New Zealand 
 Phthisis laryngea Bronchitis and Cynanche benefitted by 
 Auckland climate Entozoa common Caries of teeth No Ague 
 in the colony- Katipo-bite Diseases arising from Abuse of 
 Alcohol and Tobacco Lunacy in New Zealand Vital statistics. 
 
 IN view of the numerous letters I have received since 
 my return to England from medical men, both those 
 who are seeking openings for practice in the colonies, and 
 those who want to know all about New Zealand as a 
 Health Resort, I have thought it well to add this chapter 
 in order to supply the definite information required. 
 
 The non-medical reader will understand, therefore, 
 that this chapter is written for the medical profession 
 alone. 
 
 First, let me inform my medical brethren that 
 there are openings occurring from time to time in New 
 Zealand. 
 
 Second, that there are not now any " fortunes " to be 
 made in practice as seems to have been the case twenty 
 years since. 
 
 Third, that even now, a thorough knowledge of one's 
 profession, especially of surgery, steady hard work, and
 
 220 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 a little more "push" than is advisable in the old 
 country will meet with success. 
 
 Of late years, so many medical men have settled in 
 New Zealand for the sake of their own or their family's 
 health, and so many young surgeons go out there with 
 emigrant ships and on steamers, that our profession is 
 becoming almost as overstocked there as it is at home, 
 in proportion to the general population. In chapter i. 
 I quoted the exact number (495) on the New Zealand 
 register in 1887, but by the time this book reaches the 
 reader the number will have increased to at least 530 ; 
 besides a large number of unregistered practitioners who 
 obtain a fair amount of support from the New Zealand 
 public. A Medical Registration Act is now being 
 promoted by the New Zealand Medical Association to 
 extinguish unlicensed practice. 
 
 There are usually more ready openings for new 
 comers in the country districts of New Zealand 
 than in the towns, where medical men are apt to linger, 
 like the artizan-emigrants, in the hope of obtaining 
 immediate and lucrative employment. 
 
 In the leading newspapers one finds now and then 
 an advertisement for a fully qualified doctor, at a fixed 
 salary, or a guaranteed minimum income, capable of 
 being improved and extended. Very often the house- 
 surgeon of a District Hospital is allowed private prac- 
 tice, so long as his routine duties are not interfered 
 with. If the salary offered is under 300 per annum 
 the probability is that he will be allowed private prac- 
 tice ; if it is 300 or over, he will be debarred from it. 
 Mining companies unite in employing a surgeon ; the 
 salaries given varying from 300 to 500 per annum. 
 The work is hard, and the exposure to weather and 
 to risk of accident great, but a young, strong, energetic 
 man, firm in the saddle and of steady nerve, will do 
 well in such a position. 
 
 In the towns the usual mode of starting in practice 
 is to occupy the consulting-room generally attached to 
 the shop of a chemist who is doing a large business, 
 during certain hours of the day. The chemist has a
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 221 
 
 telephone, and the doctor's residence may be connected 
 therewith ; the expense to the latter not exceeding 10 
 per year. In consideration of the prescriptions made 
 up for patients, the chemist makes no charge for the 
 use of his room. This system resembles the American 
 "office -hour" custom, and it enables a medical man to 
 live in one of the healthiest suburbs of the town, while 
 still all the time accessible to messages. After some 
 years, having become fully established in the confidence 
 of the citizens, he can retire from the chemist's rooms 
 where his place will be promptly taken by a fresh 
 arrival and conduct his practice entirely at his own 
 house. Were I again starting practice in any of the 
 towns I know in New Zealand, I should rent consulting 
 rooms in the main street ; have a man or boy there all 
 day ; a telephone ; and live where I liked, but not too 
 far for patients to walk from office to house, or vice 
 versa. I should carefully select my consulting-hours 
 to suit the habits of the locality, and should keep them 
 punctually. Always make the fee for seeing you at 
 the house or rooms less than for a visit. There is a 
 difference in the elements of immediate success in a 
 colonial and in a British community. The dull steady- 
 plodding doctor in the former case does not get on so 
 well as one with " dash and volubility." The doctors 
 I knew who succeeded most rapidly in building up 
 large practices were young men of pleasing manners, 
 fluent talk, and social accomplishments, who married 
 soon after their arrival into some well-known, perhaps 
 wealthy local family, and became thoroughly identified 
 with the place. They became almost at once colonials 
 in freedom of manner and unconventionality of dress. 
 On my return Home everything and everybody in the 
 profession seemed formal and stiff in dress, etiquette, 
 and behaviour. 
 
 The proper age at which our colleagues may emigrate 
 with the best chance of success I should place at from 
 twenty-four to fifty. From the study of the careers of 
 the twenty-four colleagues who settled in or near Auck- 
 land after my arrival there in 1879, and from personal
 
 222 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 knowledge of many others, I am of opinion that, 
 whether . married or unmarried, a medical man after 
 the age of fifty cannot adapt himself to colonial ways. 
 There may be exceptions. If a doctor breaks down in 
 health, yet not so much as to debar him from work, 
 and needs the change to any particular colony, if his 
 wife is healthy, adaptable, and hopeful it is the women 
 who suffer most from nostalgia and if his family 
 consists chiefly of strong healthy boys, then he may 
 emigrate even after that age. But in New Zealand I 
 have generally seen, in the competition of practice, that 
 " the race is to the swift and the battle to the strong." 
 
 Buying a practice, as is done in England, is almost 
 unknown in New Zealand ; even purchasing a medical 
 partnership is an uncertain speculation, for the " good- 
 will" of a colonial practice cannot be purchased. 
 Patients are generally "independent," as they call it, 
 roaming from one doctor to another, believing devoutly 
 in specialties, and regarding the newest arrival from 
 the old country as the incarnation of all the learning 
 and wisdom of medicine. Thus a New Zealand doctor 
 always has patients leaving him, just as he has always 
 patients coming to him a constant influx and efflux, 
 without that strong " back-bone " to his practice, which 
 the affection and respect of his clientele, won by long 
 years of toil for them, and by clinical triumphs, secures 
 for him in the Old Country. 
 
 One of the best openings I have seen in good city 
 practice is when a colonial practitioner is desirous of 
 taking a six or twelve months' holiday in England. 
 Then some new arrival takes his entire practice as locum 
 tenens, with permission to remain in the same locality 
 on the return of the owner ; and the loss of patients, if 
 any, is chiefly on the latter's side. Colonial patients 
 like their favourite doctors to visit the old country 
 every few years, and acquire the newest ideas and 
 inventions. 
 
 The outfit for a medical emigrant should comprise a 
 very complete set of surgical instruments, duplicates 
 being taken of the more commonly used, a good library
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 223 
 
 of standard professional works ; a first-class microscope ; 
 a few of the more costly drugs; and large coloured 
 diagrams of the body for " Medical Talks/' which are 
 much in request. A hammock for hot nights, and a 
 strong tent for "camping-out" will be found useful. 
 A powerful telescope is also an enjoyable companion 
 in the clear atmosphere of New Zealand. When I left 
 the colony there was no duty either upon surgical 
 instruments or upon philosophical apparatus. 
 
 Having selected his place of work, the new doctor 
 must comply with the registration law of New 
 Zealand, which commands him to show his diplomas 
 to the Eegistrar-general, or the Provincial Eegistrar ; to 
 pay a fee of 2 ; and to advertise in a daily news- 
 paper his declaration of intention to practise, setting 
 forth his full titles and qualifications. No title or 
 qualification is registrable in New Zealand which is 
 not recognized by the General Council of Medical 
 Education and Eegistration of Great Britain. 
 
 The average fees of a respectable practitioner in New 
 Zealand city practice are equal to the best scale of 
 those paid to the general practitioner of London, and 
 are much better than those realised by our provincial 
 colleagues. But, even for important operations, the 
 Auckland fees were not equal, as they ought to be, to 
 those paid to London surgeons. At the time I left, the 
 fees seemed to be declining, in consequence of the 
 commercial depression, and the unfair competition 
 started by a doctor, who advertised " Advice and 
 medicine at English rates," which meant giving for 2s. 6d. 
 what all of us, correctly, charged five shillings for. 
 One is always exposed to this sort of thing in the 
 colonies. There is less booking, and a larger proportion 
 of ready-money payments, than in England. 
 
 Clubs pay the doctor on a higher scale than at home 
 1 per head per annum, or 15s. being a common rate. 
 Even with the increased cost of drugs, caused by the 
 heavy tariff, and the greater expense of surgical 
 appliances, which are all imported, these payments re- 
 munerate the club doctor better than the pittance of
 
 224 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 four or five shillings he receives in England. I 
 steadily refused clubs because I did not need them, but 
 they are useful appointments to begin with. 
 
 In estimating the working expenses of a New 
 Zealand practice, one must take into account the hilly 
 nature of the country, the long distance, and the badly 
 kept roads. A riding hack must be kept for even a 
 small practice, and an American or colonial buggy 
 for a fair-sized area of work. In Auckland and its 
 vicinity, walking for some hours as we sometimes do 
 in an English town practice at the beginning, is not 
 possible in summer ; cabs are twice as expensive as at 
 home ; and omnibuses are neither cheap, comfortable, 
 nor frequent enough to be useful to a doctor. A good 
 buggy with hood, lamps, and all appurtenances costs 
 45 to 60 ; a good horse (ride or drive) varies from 
 16 to 30 ; harness about 8, and a coachman's 
 wages average 30s. a week and all found ; or 2 5s. a 
 week, if he finds his own board and lodging. The 
 livery " jobbing " system, so much in vogue here, does 
 not pay the doctor in New Zealand. Horse-feed is 
 cheaper than in England, but carriage repairs are 
 extravagantly dear. Collisions and runaways are more 
 frequent speaking of the city where I practised than 
 with us, from reckless driving by small boys in charge 
 of horses they were powerless to check or guide, by 
 drunken carters, and from the evasion of the city bye- 
 law respecting carrying lamps after dark. 
 
 To set up in good style, a new-comer must take a neat 
 house in a first-class street, paying 80 to 100 rent ; 
 keep two servants ; have a carriage, and a coachman who 
 will also keep his garden trim ; have his own stable ; a 
 telephone, and consulting-rooms " down town," either 
 at a chemist's, or separately. " Self-supporting " dis- 
 pensaries do not pay. The poorest working-man will 
 pay his fee of 2s. Qd. or 3s. Gd. cheerfully, and is too 
 proud to accept any of that pauperising in medical 
 charity that we observe in England. On the whole a 
 new doctor obtains a practice more quickly in the 
 colonies than in the old country, but there is not the
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 225 
 
 same stability about it, nor is there anything of the 
 warm personal attachment to the family doctor, as to a 
 family friend, that exists at Home. 
 
 Diseases Prevalent among tlie Maoris, 
 
 Although the natives in New Zealand do not trouble 
 the pakeha doctor very much, yet my colleagues will, 
 I am sure, not consider space wasted if I mention some 
 professionally interesting details concerning them. 
 
 In the years intervening between 1847 and 1853, 
 Surgeon A. S. Thompson, of the 58th Foot Regiment, 
 then serving in New Zealand, made copious notes of the 
 diseases he observed and heard of as existing among 
 the Maoris. His valuable records were given to the 
 medical world in the British and Foreign Medico- 
 Chirurgical Review; and as much of the information 
 he gives us holds true of the Maori of to-day, I con- 
 dense the most important of his observations, adding 
 uiy own experience, and what I learned from other 
 medical men who have had more to do with the " noble 
 savage " than I have. 
 
 There was a greater variety and a larger amount of 
 imported and endemic disease among the natives then 
 than there is now ; though even now, as I shall show 
 later on, there is a great deal that is quite preventible. 
 Fevers were then common, of a continued, not inter- 
 mittent type, constituting seventy-four cases in every 
 1000 cases of disease. Scarlet fever entered New 
 Zealand in 1848, but did not spread. The natives 
 have been always apt to catch infectious or contagious 
 diseases, so this was a fortunate circumstance. 
 
 Phthisis pulmonalis, following prolonged influenza, 
 was not uncommon, the disease carrying off persons at 
 all ages. 
 
 Diseases of the skin, especially scabies, ringworm, 
 and psoriasis, were then and are still common ; hence 
 the discovery of one of the many healing powers of the 
 liotoma hot springs. Scrofula was and is the bane of 
 
 Q
 
 226 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 the whole race, though not now so universal, thanks to 
 better food, as in the early days. It was caused by 
 breathing impure air in crowded huts; by indolent 
 uncleanly habits ; by bad food ; and by intermarriage 
 with near and scrofulous relations. 
 
 In those days cases of elephantiasis, or Lepra 
 gangrsenosa, a true kind of leprosy, were sometimes 
 seen. It was caused, Dr. Thompson thought, by the 
 habit of eating putrid maize and half-rotten potatoes. 
 Diseases of the Hver are now more common among the 
 natives than they were forty years since, because of the 
 alcoholic drinks consumed. I once treated the famous 
 chief Wahamii, of Otorohanga, Waikato, a faithful ally 
 of ours, for a disease of this kind, in the cause of which 
 an excessive use of animal food, blended with a too 
 great indulgence in alcohol, in producing, in addition to 
 the liver derangement, an inordinate obesity. He was 
 the finest specimen of a warrior chief I have seen. 
 
 The diseases epilepsy, apoplexy, chorea, cancer, and 
 ague were unknown. 
 
 Wounds used to heal quickly: the natives used 
 various vegetable or earthy applications, the favourite 
 being an ointment of red ochre. Parturition was easy 
 and rapid. 
 
 Rheumatism was and is very common, caused by the 
 utter recklessness of the Maoris about the situation of 
 their dwellings, drying their wet clothes or mats, and 
 so on. Very early in the history of the Maoris the 
 curative powers of the hot baths and springs in this 
 disease were discovered. Syphilis exists, but not of a 
 virulent type, in both sexes. Its local manifestations 
 are removed sooner by the hot mud-baths than by 
 medicinal treatment. 
 
 Melancholia, with a tendency to suicide, from the 
 superstition of being bewitched, was common, and even 
 now exists, though much more rarely, owing to the 
 general spread of Christianity through the whole 
 nation. 
 
 The custom of tapu (chapter iii., p. 48) had certainly 
 its sanitary uses, which unfortunately have not been
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 227 
 
 replaced, now that tapu is out of fashion, by that 
 "cleanliness which is next unto godliness" which 
 should be characteristic of a Christianized nation. 
 
 The Maori of old time, believing that all sickness 
 was caused by an atua or evil spirit entering the body, 
 used to employ all kinds of violent measures to the 
 sick man, in order to drive it out, such as rolling him 
 for hours on the ground, placing baskets of stones on 
 his abdomen, and so forth ; these well-meant exertions 
 more often killing than curing the patient. 
 
 But their mode of shampooing- the same as the lorni* 
 lomi of the Hawaiian, (the basis of modern massage) ; 
 their artificial steam-baths; and their extraordinary 
 but successful method of resuscitating an apparently 
 drowned person by holding him head downwards over 
 the smoke of a fire, and then pouring hot water down 
 his throat as soon as he could swallow all these were 
 useful in disease. Being intelligent observers of the 
 properties of native plants, the Maoris used various 
 parts of the following shrubs in diseases and injuries : 
 these may give some hints to those who are con- 
 tinually seeking additions to the Materia Medica. 
 
 Mesembryanthemum (Ficoidese) was used as a 
 poultice for boils. 
 
 Phormium tenax, the native flax, or more properly 
 hemp (see p. 189), nat. ord. Liliaceae. The leaf was 
 used for bandaging wounds ; the root and the gummy 
 exudation for disorders of menstruation. 
 
 Podocarpus, or Kaliikatea, the white Pine (Coniferib), 
 a decoction of the leaves for urinary complaints. 
 
 Piper excelsus, or Kawakawa (Piperaceae) for cuts, 
 wounds, skin diseases, gonorrhoea, and in the hot steam 
 baths. 
 
 Dysoxylum spectabile, or Kohekohe (Meliacese) an 
 infusion of the leaves to stop the secretion of milk in 
 the breasts. 
 
 Veronica, or Koromiko (Scrophulariacese) bruised 
 leaves as poultice for ulcers. 
 
 Cyathea, or tree-fern (Filicinere) the bruised pith 
 as a poultice for swollen feet and for sore eyes. 
 
 Q 2
 
 228 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Sophora tetraptera, or Kowhai (Leguniinosse) the 
 inner bark in Scabies. 
 
 \ Dacrydium cupressinum, or Eimu (Coniferse) in- 
 fusion of the bark for ulcers and wounds, 
 
 Coriaria, or Tutu (Coriarise) leaves which are poi- 
 sonous to cattle, and the leave 3 and twigs of the 
 Leptospermum ericoides, or Manuka (Myrtacese), are 
 used effectually to cure dysentery. 
 
 Some of these therapeutic applications of native 
 plants have been tried and confirmed by local practi- 
 tioners. The Veronica seems scarcely ever to fail in 
 relieving dysentery and diarrhoea. Another plant, the 
 Brachyglottis repens, or Puka-puka, of the Nat. Ord. 
 Compositse, has been found useful in Bright's disease of 
 the kidneys and in " neuralgic " rheumatism. 
 
 A curious kind of slow poisoning among the Maori 
 old men and women by the Karaka berry is sometimes 
 found. Its characteristic feature is a spastic con- 
 traction of the flexor muscles of the arms and legs, not 
 of the trunk muscles. There are no twitches or spasms. 
 This phenomenon is produced by the imperfect cooking 
 of the bean or berry whose dark inner skin (next to the 
 albumen of the seed) contains a toxic alkaloid named 
 Icarakine. If this skin is perfectly removed by long 
 maceration in water, the berry is not only harmless 
 but forms a nutritious food. 
 
 I have not heard of any disease arising from the 
 habit of the Maoris of eating fern-root, the pith of the 
 Nikau, or cabbage palm, or the fungus, Hirncola. 
 Poisoning by the bite of the Katipo, a small black spider 
 marked by a red cross on its back, which haunts the 
 clumps of grass near the sea, is more common among 
 and more dreaded by the Maoris than by the white 
 people. One case of chronic blood-poisoning by the 
 bite of this insect the only venomous one with tne 
 exception of the centipede, in New Zealanu came 
 under my observation. A half-caste woman, aged 
 about thirty-eight, consulted me for disease of the 
 cartilaginous septum narium. She stated that two 
 years before her visit to me a Katipo had bitten her
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 
 
 229 
 
 hand ; the usual acute inflammation followed, and after 
 the hand had completely healed, the mucous lining of 
 the nostrils became ulcerated. This process went on 
 deeper and deeper until the bones began to slough 
 away. There being no history or visible trace of 
 syphilis, I concluded that this sequela of Katipo bite, 
 quite a rare one, was probably due to a metastasis of 
 the blood-poison to the nose, acting virulently upon a 
 scrofulous constitution. The immunity enjoyed by 
 these islands from snakes and all kinds of poisonous 
 insects except the Katipo and centipede is remarkable 
 when we consider their proximity to Tasmania, 
 Australia, and New Guinea, which are all characterized 
 by these plagues. 
 
 The children of half-castes frequently die of tuber- 
 cular diseases. Dr. Thompson gives in his articles an 
 interesting table comparing the mortality in various 
 diseases among the Maoris of his day with the death- 
 rate in Sheffield (as a specimen of a large densely 
 populated English town), taking as a standard of com- 
 parison the register of the Sheffield General Infirmary 
 for twenty-two years previous to 1852. We can thus 
 perceive that in five classes of disease the death-rate 
 among the Maoris was much heavier than that of one of 
 the most unhealthy and crowded towns in our country. 
 
 In one thousand deaths from all causes there were 
 
 
 Sheffield. 
 
 Maoris of 
 New 
 
 Zealand. 
 
 From 
 n 
 
 V 
 
 )) 
 > 
 
 
 
 59 
 119 
 
 45 
 109 
 71 
 
 82 
 191 
 70 
 169 
 119 
 
 Rheumatism . 
 
 
 Diseases of th 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 Stomach and Bowels . . 
 
 In chapter iii. I have summarized the Registrar- 
 general's report on the causes of the decrease of the
 
 230 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 native race. Since that was written I have received 
 an interesting letter from my friend who, though a 
 settler up in the north, has become a volunteer 
 missionary among the Maoris of the Pakanae district, 
 which gives valuable information on this point, which 
 I will condense for the reader. Mr. Fell says that one 
 prominent cause of the decline of the race is traceable 
 to too early marriages, which are generally barren. 
 He mentions one instance of a Maori bride of twelve 
 and a bridegroom of twenty. In readjusting the 
 ownership of a block of ground at Pakanae, formerly 
 held by a hapu of 1000 adults, only fifty adult Maori 
 owners could be found, and of these a large number 
 were childless. " One principal reason," writes 
 Mr. Fell, "of the very great mortality is from their 
 sleeping on the ground all the year round. All whom 
 we have met with, except the very young children, 
 suffer from asthma, and the men especially seem to 
 suffer from chest complaints and die young. We have 
 one [Maori] now felling the bush for us ; he has 
 pitched the tent we have lent him on the flat, and he 
 sleeps on green ti-tree. . . . They never change their 
 wet clothes." Contemporary evidence thus proves 
 that the habits of the Maoris of old are continued to 
 the present day, and are conducing to the extinction of 
 the race. 
 
 Diseases Prevalent among the Colonists. 
 
 1. Acute Diseases. Of these the most common is 
 enteric or typhoid fever, arising from the insanitary 
 state of most of the New Zealand cities and towns. 
 Settlers build where .and how they like, up and down 
 the hills and along the valleys, which often constitute 
 the natural features of a town site. The owner of an 
 allotment may pack as many houses as he chooses 
 upon it provided he makes what is euphemistically 
 called " an earth closet " for each building. The lower 
 classes of inhabitants are not very particular as to 
 where the gleanings of the kitchen are deposited.
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 231 
 
 During the long hot summer of North New Zealand 
 the decomposition of this refuse goes on, and when the 
 first rains of winter fall there is some years an outbreak 
 of typhoid fever lasting several months. It seems as 
 if the bacteria (or other inateries morbi) were liberated 
 from their nidus by the rain, and washed into the 
 drinking water, or, in some way, found access into the 
 bodies of their numerous victims, generally the young 
 and apparently strong, of from fifteen to forty years 
 of age. As a typhoid endemic has a knack of seizing 
 now and then upon well-known families of ' good 
 position, this plague, so preventible by proper drainage 
 and good sanitation, every year excites much public 
 outcry. But somehow corporations look more to the 
 amount of their rates than to the health of the citizens, 
 and little is done effectually to stop this drawback 
 to life and health. In 1887 my friend, Dr. G. Toussaint 
 Girdler, in an able paper read before the Athenaeum 
 Society of Auckland on the Sanitary Condition of that 
 City proved that out of six thousand inhabited houses 
 within the city limits only six hundred were provided 
 with water-closets, the rest having merely the " earth- 
 closets," so called because the contractor who cleaned 
 them out was supposed to supply fresh dry earth each 
 time but did not ! He showed that if even the existing 
 Municipal Regulations were made compulsory, and not 
 merely permissive, many of the nuisances which 
 generated diseases would be prevented, much sickness 
 and many valuable lives saved. The reading of this 
 Paper excited much attention, more especially as 
 during the very time that typhoid fever was prevalent 
 the city council of Auckland had, under the pretext of 
 economy, reduced their sanitary staff, which was 
 already too small in number. More efficient modes of 
 collecting the refuse and of disposing of the sewage 
 were earnestly discussed at a second meeting of the 
 Athemeum; and the Mayor (A. E. T. Devore, Esq.) 
 expressed himself in favour of a kiln, such as is used 
 with excellent results in Manchester and Salford, 
 where all the garbage is burnt up, and the products
 
 232 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 utilized. There has been a permanent improvement 
 in the sanitary condition of Auckland since, and a 
 lessening of the number of cases of typhoid. 
 
 The tiatness of some cities, such as Christchurch, 
 does not admit of a perfect system of underground 
 drainage, but Auckland is eminently adapted for it. 
 There seems to me no reason why both typhoid fever 
 and diphtheria should not, by efficient sanitation, 
 (which demands, unfortunately for the colony's position, 
 a large expenditure), be banished from New Zealand. 
 Although the highest mortality from typhoid fever 
 in Auckland, where during the last two " seasons " 
 it has averaged fifteen to twenty-two per cent., is 
 much lower than the ordinary mortality from that 
 disease in Melbourne and Sydney, the death-rate was 
 far from encouraging. During five years of my 
 practice I treated forty cases of typhoid fever, of which 
 I lost only one a boy who died of a cerebral compli- 
 cation five days after I was called in. There are few 
 private nurses in the New Zealand towns whu are 
 properly trained to nurse fever patients, and this is a 
 great difficulty in the way of clinical success. 
 
 I have never seen a case of true typhus fever in New 
 Zealand, a fact which thus far corroborates the theory 
 that typhus is the product of starvation, want of pure 
 air, and overcrowding. 
 
 No case of Asiatic cholera has been reported so far 
 as my research extends in New Zealand, though cases 
 of European cholera occur every summer, when the 
 heat is unusually high and prolonged. 
 
 The infectious Exanthemata are of a mild type in 
 New Zealand. Although the compulsory clauses of 
 the New Zealand Vaccination Act seem to be a dea^ 
 letter, Small-pox has been so well excluded from the 
 islands that it does not appear at all as a cause of 
 death in the mortality records of the quinquennial 
 period, 1881-1886. The genial climate permits of 
 more complete ventilation of the sick-room during a 
 much greater portion of the year than is possible in 
 England, and this advantage limits the risk of
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPEDIENCES. 233 
 
 contagion or infection ; otherwise the wooden houses 
 are certainly not so easily well disinfected as our brick 
 and stone houses here. 
 
 Many children grow up to adult age without ever 
 having caught any of the Exanthemata. Once during 
 my residenae there was a tremendous "scare" about 
 small-pox, a steamer having a case on board brought 
 from San Francisco, if I remember aright. All the 
 passengers for Auckland were landed at Motuihi, the 
 island where the quarantine station, a Government 
 building, was situated. A rush to the doctors for 
 vaccination took place. Having secured some pure 
 and fresh calf lymph through the praiseworthy 
 exertions of my energetic chemist, I vaccinated about 
 sixty-six cases during that year with perfect satis- 
 faction to the parents, some of whom held anti- 
 vaccination opinions, and to the adults, whose con- 
 stitutions all showed the need of re-vaccination by the 
 vigorous way in which they "took." The gratifying 
 results of the fright were, (1) that no case of small-pox 
 occurred on shore ; (2) that the Motuihi station, then 
 dirty and dilapidated, because so long unused, was 
 cleaned, repaired, and made fairly decent for human 
 beings. 
 
 Croup and Diphtheria are deplorably common in the 
 towns of the colony ; the former from the storms, rain, 
 and high winds that occur, and the latter from mias- 
 matic emanations from the animal and vegetable refuse 
 heaps above described (p. 231). I remember one very 
 sad instance of how diphtheria may be contracted from 
 noxious emanations without any contact with previous 
 cases of the disease. A fine little girl who, with her 
 brother, had been playing about a certain street in the 
 west of Auckland, and hovering about a ditch which 
 had been cut into the clay subsoil for the purpose of 
 laying gas-pipes, succumbed in a few days to malignant 
 diphtheria. A few days after her death the brother 
 showed this disease in the same intensity, and died 
 after all that medical skill and attention could do for 
 him, thus leaving the parents childless. That heaps of
 
 234 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 decomposing garbage will generate this disease I had a 
 most painful experience in my own family when my 
 son was very nearly carried off by this fell destroyer. 
 I had no control whatever over the use of the vacant 
 unfenced allotment next to my house where the 
 miasma had been generated. 
 
 I am not able to obtain comparative statistics of 
 Diphtheria in the other colonies ; but it is a fact that 
 during the five years preceding the census of 1886, the 
 rate of mortality in New Zealand proceeding from 
 specific febrile, and zymotic diseases was considerably 
 less than in England and in the Australian colonies. 
 
 Cases of irritant poisoning, sometimes fatal, caused 
 by eating canned meat, half-decomposed or con- 
 taminated by solder, are not uncommon. A sad case of 
 poisoning by the formation of ptomaines in twice- 
 cooked canned meat occurred in Parnell. Three lives 
 of Maori clergymen were lost, and three white people 
 made dangerously ill. 
 
 Acute rheumatism, pneumonia, and pleurisy seldom 
 reach the same intensity or duration that they exhibit 
 in Britain. 
 
 2. Chronic Diseases. The most important class of 
 chronic diseases of which I must write are Pulmonary 
 diseases, for the relief of which so many invalids come 
 out from England to this colony. In chapters ii., iv., 
 and v. I have given useful suggestions as to the 
 suitability or unsuitability of certain Climatic Zones and 
 localities for various certain chest complaints, and these 
 may now be supplemented by some general observations 
 deduced from experience on the subject. A study of 
 those three chapters, of the maps accompanying this 
 volume, and of the temperatures I have quoted in the 
 text, will enable consulting physicians to indicate to 
 their chest patients what part of New Zealand they 
 should try on arrival, and what parts they should 
 avoid. In general terms the north of Auckland 
 district, and a few spots on the highest ranges of the 
 hills -near Auckland city, offer in winter the best 
 climate in New Zealand for real tubercular consumption
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 235 
 
 of the lungs or larynx, and for that very large class of 
 cases which are chronic pneumonias in tuberculous or 
 strumous constitutions, of which most of those cases 
 benefitted or cured by sea voyages, or changes of 
 climate, consist. 
 
 If a poitrinaire, in whom phthisis pulmonalis has not 
 advanced far into the second stage, will go out by the 
 Cape to New Zealand, so as to arrive there in October 
 or November, he will enjoy the glorious summer 
 weather, and improve steadily, if he conducts himself 
 carefully, until the middle of April of the next year, 
 when the rains will have begun. He will be able to 
 remain in Auckland, Taranaki, or Napier later in April 
 or even into May than he would in other cities further 
 south. In April or May he can sail away to Norfolk 
 Island or to the Fijis, where he may bask in genial 
 sunshine until summer once more returns to New 
 Zealand. 
 
 I knew a clergyman in Auckland who was in good 
 health, fulfilling the duties of an important parish, 
 married, with three healthy children, who owes his life 
 to the local climate, having landed there fourteen years 
 since with a cavity in one of his lungs. 
 
 Another favourable case was that of a bank manager 
 who came out from England about ten years since with 
 phthisis pulmonalis in both lungs and frequent hsemo- 
 ptysis. He steadily improved in Auckland, and became 
 stout and strong. For five years he remained in good 
 health, but the bank's arrangements compelling him to 
 move off to Christchurch, the extremes of that climate 
 disagreed with him ; his old disease broke out again, 
 and he was a dead man in less than two years (I 
 believe) from the time he left the northern city. None 
 of his friends, myself included, doubted that he would 
 have survived many years had he been able to remain 
 in Auckland or North of it. 
 
 A third case in which I felt much interest, though I 
 had very little to do with its treatment, was that of a 
 clergyman who came out to get a cure of a " weak 
 throat " in fact, " Dysphonia Clericorum." At first the
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 voice improved in a locality near Auckland, but after 
 two winters, during which he felt obliged to do clerical 
 duty, the constant use of his voice and the colds he 
 occasionally took developed that terrible disease, real 
 phthisis laryngea. Although the ravages of this disease 
 in the larynx may be delayed by a pure, dry, warm air 
 such as that of Egypt or Western Australia, I have 
 never yet known a case recover. One patient I knew 
 was kept alive for four years by the dry climate of 
 California, but eventually he succumbed. 
 
 Very often it has been noticed by medical men that 
 the consumptive patient who does not improve under 
 treatment in a certain part of the city, will begin to 
 improve if he moves his residence on to a different 
 subsoil say, from off clay to scoria ground. I may 
 mention one homely matter which is often neglected. 
 A chest invalid should always bring flannel under- 
 clothing of two thicknesses, one for the winter and one 
 for the summer, so that wool may be next the skin all 
 the year round. Even the hottest days in the northern 
 summer of New Zealand are followed by cool evenings, 
 which visitors enjoy seated under the verandahs outside 
 the house, when frequently chills are contracted by 
 sensitive and too thinly clad invalids. 
 
 Most practitioners of long experience in New 
 Zealand have noticed the singular fact that, though 
 phthisical sufferers from colder climates derive much 
 benefit, even sometimes a cure, from that genial air, 
 yet when this disease arises in a native-born New 
 Zealander, it generally carries the victim off in a short 
 time. I know one case in which only six months 
 elapsed from the first manifestations of the disease 
 (true phthisis) until death. 
 
 In such cases the best change of climate is to the 
 Darling Downs of Queensland, the nearest approach to 
 Davos or St. Moritz that exists in Australasia. This 
 health resort is also beneficial to " clerical sore throat." 
 
 In estimating the mortality from phthisis pulmonalis 
 in the records of the New Zealand Registrar-general, 
 one must remember that the death-rate is largely
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 2o7 
 
 increased by the number of persons who arrive in the 
 colony far advanced in the disease sometimes even in 
 the third stage ; or with a very strong predisposition to 
 consumption. In 1886, out of the total deaths from 
 phthisis in New Zealand eleven per cent, were persons 
 who had not resided three years in the colony. Yet 
 with even the addition from this source, the death-rate 
 from phthisis among the colonists in New Zealand is 
 much less than in England, or than in any of the 
 Australian colonies, except Western Australia. 
 
 Invalids suffering from recurrent attacks of bron- 
 chitis, chronic enlargement of the tonsils, and ordinary 
 follicular sore-throat improve very much in the North 
 Island. 
 
 On the other hand, very few cases of asthma seem 
 to do well in New Zealand. Apparently the all- 
 pervading marine dampness of the atmosphere is the 
 cause of this unsuitability. Bronchial asthma, however, 
 I have known to be very much benefited by residence 
 near the sea. 
 
 Diseases caused by Entozoa, especially among young 
 children, are much more common in New Zealand than 
 at home. Tainia solium, Ascaris lumbricoides, and 
 Ascaris vermicularis are found in both adults and 
 children. Even infants at the breast have been known 
 to pass Ascarides. 
 
 Hydatids of the liver, caused by the echinococcus of 
 the sheep passing into the human body, is a common 
 disease in Australia, but rare in New Zealand. Some- 
 times, however, cases are reported from the Middle 
 Island, arising from the careless use of unwholesome 
 mutton as food. The risk of acquiring this parasitic 
 disease is the greater from the constant use of mutton 
 alone for " the hands " at the sheep stations for many 
 months consecutively. 
 
 The frequent decay of teeth in adults, young children, 
 and even in infants cutting their milk set, in Auckland 
 arrests the attention of newly arrived medical men. 
 This premature decay is due to the too complete 
 absence of lime from the water supply. The rain water
 
 238 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 percolates through scoria and clay (chiefly the former) 
 down to the springs from which the city water is taken, 
 thus reaching the consumer in an almost too pure 
 condition. The deeper springs which assist in the 
 water supply are also almost chemically free from 
 calcareous salts, therefore there is not pabulum enough 
 supplied to the human frame for the efficient growth of 
 the teeth and bones before the age at which animal 
 food can be consumed and assimilated. Even the 
 nursing mother's breast-milk is thus rendered deficient 
 in this important ingredient. The only remedy is to 
 give lime-water to the children, or to place a small 
 lump of unslaked lime in the cistern or family filter. 
 The latter is too rarely used in colonial households. 
 There is a good opening in business for a cheap and 
 good domestic filter in New Zealand, if the sale were 
 briskly pushed. The plague of entozoa would be 
 thereby much diminished. 
 
 There are no malarial fevers in the colony ; hydro- 
 phobia is unknown ; calculus and sunstroke are rare. 
 
 3. Diseases arising directly or indirectly from the 
 abuse (not the moderate use) of alcoholic liquors and 
 tobacco deserve notice here. Although the city wherein 
 I practised is not more intemperate than the other cities 
 and towns of New Zealand, nor is the colony less sober, 
 as a whole, than any or all of the other Australasian 
 colonies, yet in a work designed to advance the best 
 interests of the country I feel bound to raise a warning 
 voice against these vices of habit, which engender 
 disease. 
 
 The habit of " nipping," upon which I have already 
 adversely commented, is proved by statistics collected 
 by Dr. George Hurley, in an able paper written for 
 the Provincial Medical Journal, to largely increase the 
 mortality from liver diseases (and from other diseases) 
 among the classes of men most exposed to this tempta- 
 tion in the old country. Among brewers, publicans, 
 vintners, commercial travellers, barmen, and waiters, 
 the death-rate from liver diseases is six times greater 
 than it is among those not so apt to "nip;" for
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 239 
 
 example, maltsters, farmers, drapers, printers, and 
 gardeners. I regret that I have not space for his full 
 table of death-rates: it is novel and instructive. It 
 tallies with my colonial experience ; and I can further 
 add that among merchants, tradesmen, lawyers' clerks, 
 and warehousemen there is a terrible amount of liver 
 disease in the colony, quite preventible if this injurious 
 habit were dropped. Open drunkenness seldom over- 
 takes the victims of " nipping," but I have, alas ! 
 seen many of them, often good and useful citizens of 
 Auckland, die from cirrhosis of the liver, Bright's 
 disease, or congestion of the brain, before they had lived 
 out their regular " expectation of life." 
 
 The sudden deaths by accident and suicide which 
 seem so common in New Zealand are often cases in 
 which an intoxicated man attempts to drive or ride 
 along a precipitous road ; to cross a swollen river ; or 
 to enter or leave a train while in motion ; or some rash 
 action of that kind ; while suicides are frequently the 
 result of the awful depression following a prolonged 
 drinking bout. One must, in permitting, advising, 
 or refusing alchoholic stimulants to patients, take into 
 account the difference in the climatic zones of New 
 Zealand. The only districts of New Zealand where 
 I conceive whisky the newest Scotch is the favourite 
 brand to be harmless are Otago, Southland, and West- 
 land, all in the Middle Island. But in the more 
 northern districts of the Middle and in the whole of 
 the warmer North Island, brandy and whisky (however 
 permissible in cases of illness) should be avoided in 
 health. Of the two kinds of spirits, pure French 
 brandy, if you can get it, is the less injurious. It is 
 to be regretted that the very high duty upon Australian 
 light wines, lager beer, and claret so enhances their 
 cost as to place them beyond the means of any but the 
 well-to-do. If ever North New Zealand becomes a 
 wine-drinking country, after producing and maturing 
 wholesome wine, which could be done, drunkenness will 
 almost disappear, and the diseases I have mentioned 
 will no longer form part of the Registrar's returns.
 
 240 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 I have never attended a native-born colonist for 
 Delirium Tremens, a fact corroborative of the state- 
 ment made on p. 217 (chapter xi.). My medical readers 
 may note that I found it possible to bring through 
 successfully many cases of typhoid fever without 
 alcoholic stimulants, and, when these are absolutely 
 necessary, it was found sufficient to give half the 
 quantity usually ordered in similar cases in England. 
 And so in the case of most acute diseases. When a 
 man is thirsty in the summer, iced " lemon squash " or 
 Zoedone will satisfy the craving. 
 
 The abuse of tobacco by adults and the premature 
 indulgence in smoking by young lads bring on or 
 aggravate a number of diseases and derangements, 
 which I must here touch upon, in order to explain 
 my strong condemnation of these habits in the previous 
 chapter. To some persons of a lymphatic temperament 
 tobacco may really be a sedative, but to most people it 
 is an excitant at first and a depressant afterwards. In 
 the clear stimulating air of New Zealand no artificial 
 stimulus to the nervous system is necessary. In 
 summer smoking is apt to excite a thirst which water 
 alone does not slake. My professional confreres know 
 as well as I do, that premature or immoderate smoking 
 produces the following derangements of the human 
 economy : 
 
 1st. Impairment of the primary digestion, caused by 
 the excessive flow of saliva induced. 
 
 2nd. A chronic nervousness and irritability, with 
 irregular action of the heart, often accompanied with 
 insomnia, or with a minor degree of amaurosis. 
 
 3rd. Anaemia, with cardiac palpitation, due to the 
 power nicotine possesses of preventing the transforma- 
 tion of the pale into the red corpuscles of the blood. 
 
 4th. An insidious disease of the kidneys, with albu- 
 minuria, often undetected until far advanced, or ascribed 
 to other causes. 
 
 But I do not condemn the moderate use of tobacco 
 in the winters of New Zealand. It is indeed a 
 " solace " to the solitary miner, to the shepherd and to
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 241 
 
 the bushman. In the North Island smokers would do 
 well to use the lightest " twist " or " returns ; " to smoke 
 only after a meal; and where possible in the open 
 air. 
 
 Having alluded to the large amount of lunacy in New 
 Zealand in chapter xi. I will now complete my refer- 
 ence to the subject by giving a comparative table of 
 statistics, which, so far as the year 1885 is concerned, 
 places New Zealand in her right place as regards the 
 prevalence of Mental Disease, as compared with other 
 countries. I quote this table because an erroneous 
 notion is abroad that there is more Mental Disease in 
 this colony than in any other south of the line. 
 
 It must be borne in mind, that in the official returns 
 for New Zealand are, every year, included several persons 
 who have been shipped off from England to the colony 
 by their relatives, in order to get rid of them, and so 
 throw the burden of their support upon the colony. 
 Most of these lunatics improve during the sea voyage, 
 but become more insane than ever after a month or 
 two in the exciting or stimulating air of New Zealand. 
 They are then taken charge of by the Government, 
 and so troublesome had this practice become that 
 some years since the Colonial Government got an 
 Act passed through Parliament designed to put a stop 
 to it. 
 
 At the close of 1885 : 
 
 Victoria had one lunatic for 297 of the general population. 
 
 England and Wales , 339 
 New South Wales 
 New Zealand 
 
 Queensland 
 South Australia 
 
 374 
 
 401 
 416 
 439 
 
 We thus perceive that New Zealand, dead-weighted 
 as it is by the unfair English practice mentioned above, 
 stands only fourth on the list, ranking below Victoria, 
 England and Wales, and New South Wales as to the 
 number of lunatics in proportion to the general mass of 
 the people. I do not consider that the climate of New 
 Zealand in any way conduces to the development of 
 
 B
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 latent mental disease; but if that disease is already 
 manifested, it may become aggravated there. Did 
 space permit of its insertion in this already too lengthy 
 ^section, I could show, by a comparative table of the 
 vital statistics of all the Australasian colonies, that 
 New Zealand is favoured with the highest birth-rate 
 and the lowest death-rate taking a long series of years 
 of them all. 
 
 But, failing this, by merely quoting the Vital Sta- 
 tistics of the sixteen largest New Zealand towns, for 
 the few scattered months, which happen to be at hand, I 
 can easily demonstrate that the natural increase, with- 
 out any accretion from surplus of immigrants over 
 emigrants, is remarkable. The viability of children 
 born in New Zealand is greater than of those born in 
 the more tropical Australian colonies. 
 
 The sixteen large towns from which these figures are 
 summarised are Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, 
 Dunedin, Thames, New Plymouth, Napier, Wanganui, 
 Nelson, Sydenham, Lyttelton, Timaru, Oamaru, Hoki- 
 tika, Caversham, and Invercargill. 
 
 In these towns there were registered the following 
 number of births and deaths, a monthly record being 
 furnished by the Kegistrar-general : 
 
 
 Births. 
 
 Deaths. 
 
 Natural 
 increase. 
 
 In October, 1883 
 
 562 
 
 200 
 
 362 
 
 November, 1883 .... 
 July, 1884 . 
 
 468 
 506 
 
 135 
 
 177 
 
 333 
 329 
 
 
 511 
 
 201 
 
 310 
 
 November, 1884 .... 
 December, 1884 .... 
 January, 1885 
 
 467 
 465 
 501 
 
 128 
 165 
 189 
 
 339 
 300 
 312 
 
 December, 1885 .... 
 
 420 
 
 188 
 
 232 
 
 
 3900 
 
 1383 
 
 2517
 
 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 243 
 
 . The natural net increase in these sixteen towns for 
 the eight scattered months quoted amounts to 2517, 
 being some compensation for the falling-off in immi- 
 gration during 1884 and 1885. 
 
 There is no reason why an emigrant, when he settles 
 in New Zealand should not live to a green old age, if he 
 avoids steadily the injurious habits I have pointed out 
 as the source of acquired disease, and lives on whole- 
 some properly cooked food and purified water. In my 
 experience New Zealand is far beyond California for 
 health and enjoyment which is saying a good deal, for 
 the latter is one of the most delightful countries in the 
 world for travel or residence. I trust that both my 
 medical and non-medical readers will agree with me 
 that there is no place like 
 
 NEW ZEALAND FOB THE EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND 
 TOUEIST.
 
 244 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES 
 In nautical miles. 
 
 OCEAN DISTANCES: Miles - 
 
 Plymouth to Lyttelton .... 11 , 740 
 
 Port Chalmers . . . . 11,930 
 
 Wellington . . . 11,915 
 
 Auckland . . . . 12,479 
 
 Liverpool to Auckland via United States . 12,210 
 
 Suez . . . 12,706 
 
 Cape of Good Hope 14,073 
 
 San Francisco to Auckland .... 5,910 
 
 New York to Auckland via Cape Horn . . 11,860 
 
 Panama Canal . 8,940 
 
 INTER-COLONIAL : 
 
 Melbourne to the Bluff Harbour . . .1,200 
 
 Wellington . . . .1,479 
 
 Sydney to Wellington . . . . .1,239 
 
 Auckland .... . 1,281 
 
 Fiji to Auckland . . . . .1,172 
 
 Samoa to Auckland .... . 1,950 
 
 NEW ZEALAND : 
 
 Auckland to Russell . 
 Gisborne . 
 
 Wellington 
 
 Gisborne to Napier 
 Napier to Wellington . 
 Wellington to Lyttelton 
 
 Port Chalmers 
 
 Picton . 
 
 Nelson . 
 
 New Plymouth 
 
 Port Chalmers to the Bluff . 
 Onehanga to New Plymouth 
 New Plymouth to Nelson 
 Nelson to Picton 
 
 Westport . 
 Weatport to Greymouth 
 Greymouth to Hokitika 
 Hokitika to Milford . 
 Milford Sound to the Bluff . 
 
 128 
 301 
 564 
 
 86 
 203 
 175 
 332 
 
 53 
 101 
 172 
 132 
 135 
 148 
 
 85 
 160 
 
 63 
 
 20 
 190 
 210
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ABERDEEN, Earl, and Countess of, 
 
 66 
 
 Acclimatization in N.Z., 71, 72 
 Academy of Music, An, 211 
 Acheron Passage, 113, 114 
 Advice to Emigrants, 6-10, 12, 
 
 148 
 
 Agricultural Land, 144 
 Agriculture, School of, 162 
 Akaroa, 33 
 Akiteo Spring, 77 
 Albertlaud Settlement, 155 
 Alcoholic Liquors, Abuse of, 216, 
 
 238-240 
 
 Alderton, George E., 21 
 Aldis, Professor, 161 
 Alpine Plateau, The, 20, 37, 38 
 Amateur Pho:ograp!iy, 209 
 Science, 213 
 Vocalists, 212 
 Amberley, 77 
 American Organs, 212 
 Amuri, 78 
 Analyses of Springs, 78, 81, 82, 87, 
 
 88, 90, 91, 92, 93 
 Analysis of Volcanic Ash, 128 
 Anglo-American Unions, 3 
 Anglo-Saxon Race, The, 1, 3, 56 
 Aorangi, (Mt. Cook), 33 
 Apero, Capt., 103, 108 
 Arawa Tribe, The, 125 
 Arthur River, 118 
 Art Exhibitions, Local, 209 
 Arts, Society of, 68, 210, 211 
 Asbestos, Discovery of, 113 
 Asthmatic Complaints, 37, 86, 
 
 237 
 
 Aspiring Mount, 109, 117 
 Assignees in Bankruptcy, 175 
 Asylums, Benevolent, 166 
 Lunatic, 167, 218 
 
 Ateamuri, 134 
 
 Athenaeum, The Auckland, 68, 73, 
 231 
 
 Athletic Club Grounds, 69 
 
 Atkinson, Sir Harry, 143, 151 
 
 Atua, The, 46, 227 
 
 Auckland, City of, 57-73 
 
 Beauty of, 59, 62, 73 
 Caricatured, 164, 165 
 Choral Society, 66 
 Climate, 23, 24, 235 
 Grammar School, 71 
 Free Library, 63, 65 
 Geographical Position, 
 
 57,58 
 
 Harbour, 61, 63 
 Institute and Museum, 68 
 City Institutions, 63-73 
 Music in, 67, 68 
 Newspapers, 67 
 Population, 58, 59 
 
 Port of, 61, 62 
 Savings Bank, 66 
 Schools, 71 
 Seat of the Government, 
 
 59, 138 
 
 Shipping, 61, 62 
 Theatre, 69 
 University College, 68, 
 
 71, 161 
 
 Y.M.C.A., 65, 66 
 Y.W.C.A., 66 
 Province. 20-23 
 Acclimatization in, 71 
 A vifauna of, 23 
 Climate of, 24, 25 
 Flora of, 22 
 Vital Statistics, 57 
 
 Aurora Australis, 86 
 
 Australian v. New Zealand 
 Climates, 15
 
 246 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Australasian Science Association, 
 213 
 
 BAINBRIDGE, Edwin A., 125, 130- 
 132 
 
 Balclutha Schoolboy, A, 70 
 
 Barker, Lady, 199 
 
 Bates, E. Katherine, 214 
 
 Bay of Islands, 77 
 Plenty, 82, 85 
 
 Bealey, 33 
 
 Benefit Societies, 13, 223 
 
 Bible-Beading in Schools, 158 
 Translated into Maori, 45 
 
 Binder twine, 196 
 
 Birkenhead (Auckland), 63 
 
 Black, Professor, 162 
 
 Blair, W. N., 194 
 
 Blenheim, 31 
 
 Blomfield, Charles, 210 
 
 Blueskin (Dunedin), 34 
 
 Bonuses offered by Government, 
 191 
 
 Bourne, C. F., 159 
 
 Bowen Falls, The, 116 
 
 Breaksea Sound, 114 
 
 Br< akwaters (Napier, New Ply- 
 mouth and Timaru), 27, 171 
 
 Brett's Almanac, 61, 195 
 
 ' Britain of the South,' 8 
 
 Bronchitis, 25, 29, 237 
 
 Brown, Capt., 213 
 
 Brown, Professor F. D., 161, 162 
 
 Bryce, the Hon. John, 49 
 
 Building Societies, 13, 176 
 Stone, 188 
 
 ' Bush,' beauty of the, 99, 102, 209 
 
 Buying a Practice, 222 
 
 Cabinet Ministers, trials of, 143, 
 
 144 
 
 Cadets, Volunteer, 204, 206 
 " Caesar," 118 
 Calliope Dock, 61, 171 
 Campbell, Dr., 63 
 
 the Pot-t, 9 
 Cameron, Capt., Ill 
 General, 55 
 Cameron's Bath, 89 
 Canterbury College, 162 
 
 Plain-, 32 
 
 Caswell Bay, Marble, 115, 188 
 Cs well Sound, 114 
 Cathedral City, the, 32 
 
 Centralization, tendency to, 132 
 Centrifugal Law of Migration, 3 
 Centripetal Law of Migration, 3 
 Chalybeate Springs, 77 
 Chambers of Commerce, 194 
 Cheeseman, Clara, 199 
 
 T. F., 68 
 
 Chinese in N.Z., 6, 193 
 Choice of N.Z. Climates, 5, 19 
 Cholera, Asiatic and European, 232 
 Christchurch, City, 32, 194 
 Cathedral, 32 
 
 Children in, 32 
 
 Climate, 32, 33 
 
 Industrial Exhibi- 
 
 tion, 192 
 
 Population, 32, 58 
 
 Climate of N. Zealand, 16-19 
 Climate Zones of N.Z., 19-38, 239 
 Clubs, Cuisine of, &c., 207 
 
 Sick and Benefit, 223 
 Coach Varnish, 186, 196 
 Coal, varieties of, 188 
 Coleoptera, 213 
 Coode, Sir John, 27 
 Cook's Strait, 16, 29 
 Cook, Captain, 111 
 Cook, Mount, 33 
 Cook, Joseph, of Boston, 66, 208 
 Copper, 188 
 Corduroy Koads, 98 
 Coromandel, 186 
 Costley, the late Edward, 63, 64 
 Industrial Home, 65 
 Legacy, the, 64, 65 
 Cows, average yearly value of, 
 
 183 
 
 Cowie, Bishop, 156 
 Craters Extinct, 63, 124 
 Criminal Class, the, 169 
 Crisp, Miss (Mrs. Bond), 167 
 Croup, 233 
 
 Crown Lands ready for occupation, 
 144 
 
 Classified, 144 
 
 Offices, 145 
 
 Terms of Lease or 
 
 Purchase, 145-149 
 Crow's Nest, Wairakei, 134 
 Cuttle Cove, 111 
 
 Dairy Produce, 183 
 Daldy, Captain, 65 
 Dane, Major, 66
 
 INDEX. 
 
 247 
 
 Darling Downs (Queensland), 15, 
 
 236 
 
 Death by Accident, 239 
 Decay of Teeth, Premature, 237 
 Remedy for, 238 
 
 Decorative Industry, 195 
 Deferred Payment System, 146 
 Delaware's Crew Rescued, 55 
 Dentists in N.Z., 7 
 Devil's Blow Hole, 106 
 Devonport, 24, 60, 62, 79 
 Diphtheria, 233, 234 
 Direct Mail Steamers, 10, 61, 182 
 Diseases curable by Hot Springs, 
 
 94 
 Diseases unsuited to Hot Springs, 
 
 95 
 
 Dobie, T., 21 
 Doherty, T., 113 
 Domain, the (Auckland), 60 
 Domett, Alfred, 51, 101, 143. 
 Drought, unknown in N.Z , 17 
 Duuedin City, 34 
 
 Buildings, 34 
 
 Children in, 35 
 
 Climate of, 34 
 
 Club of, 35 
 
 Population, 34 
 
 Prevalent Complaints, 35 
 
 Prices in, 13, 35 
 
 Rainfall, 17, 35 
 
 Scenery of, 34 
 
 Temperature, 34 
 
 Town Belt, 35 
 Dusky Sound, 113 
 
 EAKNSLAW Mount, 36, 109 
 
 Economical Government, An, 141 
 
 Economic Plants, Culture of, 21, 
 191 
 
 Eccentric Characters, 199 
 
 Eden, Mount, 58, 59, 122 
 View from, 59 
 
 Edison's Magnetic Separator, 187 
 
 Education System, 156-165 
 Boards, 157 
 Primary, 157, 158 
 Secondary, 159 
 Technical, 162 
 University, 159-163 
 
 Edwin, Captain, 17 
 
 Effect of Climate on Character, 
 203 
 
 Effect of Climate on the Voice, 25 
 
 Egmont, Mount, 18, 25, 135 
 
 Ascent of, 26 
 
 Emigration Societies, 5 
 Employment of Children and 
 
 Females, 194, 195 
 Enamel-lined Butter-boxes, 183 
 Entozoa, 237 
 
 Eocene Period in N.Z., 123 
 Equal Electoral Districts, 144 
 Eruption of Tarawera, 
 
 Earthquakes, 126 
 
 Explosions, 127 
 
 Height of Dust Column, 
 127 
 
 Loss of Life, 130-132 
 
 Results of, 128-130 , 
 " Evening Star," the, 58, 67 
 Exanthemata, the, 232, 233 
 
 FACTS showing return of prosperity, 
 
 152, 153 
 Fares to N.Z., 11 
 
 Railway in N.Z., 170 
 Fast Mail route to N.Z., 11, 61 
 Fell, Henry Ellcray, 230 
 Fiji Islands, 235 
 Finances of N.Z., 141, 151-3 
 Fires, Causes of, &c. 202, 203 
 First Offenders' Probation Act, 
 
 169 
 
 Fissure, the Great, 123, 1 28 
 Fish, Acclimatized 71, 72 
 
 Native, 71, 111 
 Fitzroy, Captain, 138, 141 
 Flax (Phormium tenaxj, 46, 189, 
 
 196, 227 
 
 Folgefond Glacier (Norway), 117 
 Food, Prices of, 13, 71 
 Forbes, Archibald, 208 
 Fornander, Dr., 48 
 Foreign Workmen in Britain, 4 
 Fox, Sir William, 70, 143, 218 
 Free Trade Party, the, 192 
 Free Libraries, 31, 65, 163, 164 
 Friendly S icieties, 176 
 French Puss, the, 31 
 Froude, J. A., 19, 58 
 Fruit-Preserving, 29, 190 
 Fungus (Hirneola), 189, 2'28 
 Furniture, 10, 190, 192 
 Furnishing, Expense of, 13 
 
 GAMBLING Spirit, the, 215 
 Gaols, 168, 169
 
 248 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Gardens, Auckland, 24 
 George, Henry, 213 
 George Sound, 115 
 Germany's need of Colonies, 3 
 Geysers, 75, 105, 129, 133 
 Ginders, Dr. A., 75, 85, 87, 96 
 Girdler, Dr. G. T., 231 
 Gisborne, 27, 57, 145 
 Glass-Works, 190 
 Glenorcliy, 36 
 
 " Globe-Trotter," 2, 198, 202 
 Gold Mines, 186, 187 
 
 Tax upon, 186 
 Gordon, Sir Arthur, 141 
 Gout, Thermal treatment of, 95 
 Government Life Insurance, 174, 
 
 175 
 Government, Responsible, granted, 
 
 139 
 
 Governors of New Zealand, 141 
 Graham, The late Robert, 45, 54, 
 
 79 
 
 Graham, Miss, 79 
 " Grass " Widows and Widowers, 
 
 201 
 Great Britain, Annual Increase of, 
 
 4 
 
 Greater Britain, Pref., 1, 4 
 Grazing Runs, 148 
 Green, Rev. W. Spottiswoode, 33 
 Grey, Sir George, K.C.B., 51, 54, 
 
 63, 141, 143, 144, 194, 200 
 Grey, collection of MSS., 64 
 
 Maori Legends, 51 
 Griffin, Consul G. W., 62, 73 
 Gymnasia, 65, 205 
 
 HEMATITE, Iron-Ore, 187 
 
 Haifa (the Maori dance), 51 
 
 Hall, Sir John, 143 
 
 Hamner Plains Springs, 78 
 
 Hapus (tribes), 40, 45, 49, 137 
 
 Hare, sybtem of voting, 144 
 
 Haszard, the late C. A., 103, 130 
 
 Hastings (Napier), 27 
 
 Haultain, Col., 05 
 
 Havelock, 27 
 
 Hawaiian Dialect, 41, 42 
 
 Hawkes Bay, 26, 48 
 
 Hector, Sir James, 82, 115, 163 
 
 Hill, Rev. J. S., 65 
 
 Hobson, Captain, First"Governor of 
 
 New Zealand, 136, 138 
 Hochstetter, Dr. F. von, 63, 122 
 
 Hokitika, 17. 18, 33, 37 
 
 " Home," used for Britain, 3, 4, &c. 
 
 Home, a happy, in N.Z., 3, 8, 218 
 
 Homestead system, the, 147 
 
 Honey, exported, 183 
 
 Hongi (rubbing noses), 52 
 
 Hospitals of New Zealand, 165- 
 
 167 
 Hospital, the Auckland, G2, 65, 167 
 
 . Dunedin, 163 
 Hospital and Charitable Aid 
 
 Boards, 166 
 Ho wick, 25, 155 
 Humour of W. J. Frater, 198 
 
 D. Sutherland, 118 
 Hururunui River, 27, 31 
 Hydatids of the Liver, 237 
 Hymn, Maori version of a, 44 
 
 INCUBATOR, the, 70 
 
 Immigrants wanted in N.Z., 6, 8, 9 
 
 not wanted in N.Z., 
 
 7,8 
 
 " Indian summer," of Rotorua, 86 
 Industrial exhibitions, 192 
 Inlaid Cabinet Ware, 192 
 Insomnia, 24 
 Inspectors of Sheep and Rabbits, 
 
 176 
 
 Institute, the New Zealand, 163 
 Institutes, Local Scientific, 163 
 Inventiveness of the Colonists, 195 
 Invercargill, 36, 37, 145 
 
 Climate of, 37 
 
 Iodine, Springs containing, 77 
 Ironsand Deposits, 187 
 Iron works, 187 
 
 JACKSON, Samuel, Senr., 98 
 Jervois, Sir W. F. D., G.C.M.G., 
 
 C.B.,&c., 61, 141. 172 
 " Joshua's," Taupe, 38 
 
 KAINGA (village), 48, 50, 135 
 Kaingaroa Plains, 133 
 Kaiwaka Creek, 104, 107, 129 
 Kaka, 23, 99, 209 
 KuJ;apo, 23, 99 
 Kakaramea Mt , 133 
 Kanjo, 22, 77 
 Karaka, 99, 228 
 
 Poisonous effects of, 228 
 Karakine (the alkaloid), 228 
 Karahia (a spell), 48, 132
 
 INDEX. 
 
 249 
 
 Kaltikatea (White Pine), 185 
 Katipo Spider, and effects of its 
 
 bite, 209, 228, 229 
 Kate and Sophia, guides, 102, 108 
 Kauri, the, 18, 185, 202 
 
 Gum, 185, 196 
 Kauwhanga Spring, 89 
 Kawau I, 69 
 Kimberley Mount, 116 
 " King Country," the, 27, 38, 45 
 Kinloch, Lake Wakatipu, 36 
 Kiwi, the, 23 
 Kotekohe. 227 
 Korero, 50, 51 
 Korimako (Bell Bird) 23, 210 
 
 Maori Journal, 44 
 Kormniko, 53, 71, 227 
 Korohotis, 92, 93 
 Koura, 53, 71 
 
 Krakatoa. Eruption, the, 121 
 Kuirau Spring, 76 
 Kuripapauga (Napier), 27 
 
 LAKES of Otago, Fish in the, 71 
 Lake Ada, 116, 118 
 
 Manapouri, 109 
 
 Ngahewa, 133 
 
 Rotokakahi, 102, 104, 125 
 
 Rotokawau, 94 
 
 Rotomahana, 102-108, 129 
 
 Rotomakiriri, 104 
 
 Rotorua, 83-96, 100 
 
 Takapuna, 62 
 
 Tarawera, 103, 104 
 
 Taupo, 27, 77, 84, 133,' 134 
 
 Te Anau. 109 
 
 Tikitapu, 102 
 
 Wakatipu, 36, 42, 115, 119 
 Land Tenure in N.Z., 144, 145 
 Larrikinism, Causes and Cure, 204, 
 
 205 
 
 Laughing-Gas Bath, 89 
 Lectures, successful in N.Z., 208 
 Ledum palustre, 119 
 Leprosy, 95, 226 
 Lewis, Dr. T. H., 85, 87, 96 
 Litliia in Springs, 82, 89, 90, 93 
 Little Barrier Island, 23, 59 
 Literature in N.Z., love of, 213 
 Lithographic Stone (Dusky Sound), 
 
 113 
 
 Living, cost of, 12, 13 
 Local Option, 169 
 Lomond Ben, 36 
 
 Lami-lomi, of Hawaii, 99, 257 
 Long Sound, 112 
 Loyalty of the Colonists, 140, 165 
 Lunacy in N.Z., 168, 218, 241 
 Lyttelton Port, 32 
 
 MACKELVIE, the late J. T., 63, 66 
 Macrae's Hotel, Wairoa, 102, 103, 
 
 131. 
 
 " Madame Rachel '' Bath, 88, 95 
 Maire, black and white, 185 
 Mana, 53, 54 
 Manawatu Gorge, 27 
 Maning, Judge, 45, 52, 98, 100, 
 
 108 
 Manuka or TV-tree, 60, 98, 104, 
 
 22S 
 
 Manukau Harbour, 25, 58 
 Mauna Loa, 122 
 Maungongaonga Mount, 133 
 Maunsell, Archdeacon, 45 
 Maoris, The, 39-56 
 
 their appearance, 40 
 character, 41, 45, 54 
 customs, 48-54 
 decline, 47, 230 
 Missions among the, 42, 44, 
 
 45, 55, 56 
 Origin of, 39 
 Marlborough Province, 31 
 Martin, Lady, 55 
 Mean Annual Rainfall, 17 
 
 Temperature, 16 
 
 Daily Range of do, 17 
 Meat, Frozen, 182 
 
 Tinned, Cured, Salted, 182, 
 
 234 
 
 Mechanics' Institutes, 213 
 Medical Men, Number of, 7 
 
 Prospects of, 7, 219- 
 
 225 
 
 Melancholia among Natives, 226 
 Mercury (Cinnabar), 77, 188 
 Mere (of Jade), 51, 54 
 Meteorological Department, 17 
 Midland Railway of N.Z., 33 
 Militia Law, the, 206 
 Milford Sound, 115-119 
 Mills, James, 110 
 Minett, T , 131 
 Ministry, Frequent Changes of, 142, 
 
 201 
 
 Minor Industries, 190 
 Mitre Ptak, 116, 117
 
 250 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Moa, the (Dinornis), 23 
 
 Mohi (Moses), 55 
 
 Mount Eden, 59, 63 
 
 Moreton, S. H., 117 
 
 Morriusville, 81 
 
 Motuihi, 59, 233 
 
 Motutapu, 59. 69 
 
 " Muggy " Weather, 18, 24 
 
 Muller, George, 66 
 
 Muru, 48, 49 
 
 Music in Auckland, 68 
 
 New Zealand 7, 211 
 Musical Festival, A, 211 
 Mutton Delicious, 182 
 
 NAPA, Soda Spring, 77 
 Napier, Agricultural Show at, 27 
 Climate of, 26 
 Population, 26 
 Port of, " The Spit," 26 
 Public Buildings, 27 
 Subsoil of, 26 
 Native Birds of N Z., 23, 209 
 Lands Act, 145 
 Court, 47, 137 
 Remedies, 227, 228 
 Necessity of Emigration for Eng- 
 land, 4, 5 
 Nelson, City, 29 
 
 Climate of, 29, 30 
 Export of Gold, 30 
 hops, 30 
 jam, 29 
 Population of, 30 
 New Grand Tour, the, 134, 135 
 New Plymouth, 25, 26 
 New Zealand, Area of, 16 
 
 Birth-rate of, 6 
 
 Climate, 16-19 
 
 Colonization of, 138, 
 
 139, 155 
 for the Europeans, 9, 
 
 194 
 
 Population of, 7 
 
 Public Debt, 141 
 Herald, the, 67, 165 
 
 Natural Resources of, 
 
 196 
 
 Society, 198, 199 
 
 Shipping Co., 10 
 
 University, 7, 159, 
 
 160 
 
 NgaruawaMfl, 42 
 Ngauruhoe Volcano, 78, 121, 133 
 
 Ngongotaha, Mt., 84 
 Nikau Palm, 99, 228 
 Niuafu Volcano, 122 
 Norse wood, 139, 147 
 North Island Trunk Railway, 58, 
 
 135, 164 
 
 Norwegian Immigrants, 139 
 Normauby, Marquis of, 141 
 
 OAMARU, 33, 188 
 
 Oats, New Zealand, 184 
 
 Obsidian, 103 
 
 Ocean Beach (Dunedin), 31 
 
 Ohaeawai, 77 
 
 Ohinemutu, 91, 99, 100 
 
 Oil Bath, the, 92, 93 
 
 Onehunga, 58, 181, 187 
 
 Onetapu Spring, 76, 78 
 
 Onslow, Lord, 144 
 
 Orange Culture, 21, 22 
 
 Oruawhata Spring, 89 
 
 Ostrich Farm (Auckland), 70 
 Schoolboy's Essay on the, 70 
 
 Otago Daily Times, 198 
 Climate of, 34-36 
 University, 159, 162, 163 
 
 Otorohanga, 226 
 
 Otumahike Spring, 76 
 
 Outdoor Sports, 69, 205 
 
 Outfit for the Emigrant, 9, 10 
 Medical man, 222, 223 
 
 Oxford, 85 
 
 PAHUA Spring, 77, 78 
 
 " Paiukiller " Spring, the, 89, 90 
 
 Pakeha, 45 
 
 Pakeha-Maori, 45 
 
 Pahnerston North, 27, 28 
 Climate of, 28 
 Boating at, 28 
 
 Panama Canal, 58 
 
 Paper Mills, (Duuedin, Ma taura) 190 
 
 Parihaka, 49 
 
 Parnell Orphan Asylum, 64 
 
 Pastoral Runs, 148 
 
 Patent Laws of N.Z., 195 
 
 Payton, E. W., 214, 215, 217 
 
 Pembroke Glacier, the, 117 
 
 Pt troleum Springs, 188, 190 
 
 Phthisis Laryngea, 236 
 
 pulmonalis, 225, 23G, 237 
 cases of, 235 
 
 mortality, 267
 
 INDEX. 
 
 251 
 
 Phthisis pulraonalis, localities suit- 
 able for, 20, 22, 26, 29, 231 
 
 Phthisis pulmonalis, localities un- 
 suitable for, 35, 37, 38 
 
 Pianos everywhere, 212 
 
 Picton, climate of, 31 
 Herrings, 30 
 
 Pink Cauldron of Waiotnpu, 133 
 Terrace, the, 107, 129, 210 
 
 Poetry in N.Z., 212 
 
 Police, the, 169 
 
 Pohutakawa, 99 
 
 Port Chalmers, 111, 177 
 
 Pounett, Professor, 161 
 
 Post Office, 184 
 
 Postage, rates of, 172 
 
 Potatoes, 184 
 
 Poverty Bay, 48 
 
 Praed, Mrs. Campbell, 199 
 
 Preservation Inlet, 111, 112 
 
 Priest's Bath, the, 87, 88 
 
 Proctor, the late R. A., 208 
 
 Protective Tariff, the, 192, 195 
 
 Proucle, Robert, 98 
 
 Psoriasis. Thermal Treatment of, 
 95, 96 ' 
 
 Public Works Policy, 150 
 
 Puhoi (Waiwera), 139 
 
 Puka-puka, 99, 228 
 
 Pumice, deposit of TaupoZone, 123 
 passing into Obsidian, 123 
 
 Puriri Spring, 77 
 
 Puriri tree, 99, 185, 190 
 
 QUARANTINE station, 233 
 
 Queen's assent to Colonial Acts, 
 140 
 
 Queen's disallowance of Colonial 
 Acts, 141 
 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, 30 
 
 Queenstown, 35 
 
 Climate of, 36 
 
 Earthquake at, 36 
 
 ., Scenery around, 36 
 
 Queen Street, Auckland, 59, 63 
 
 RAILWAYS of N.Z. 
 Ralph, Dr. T. S., 125 
 Rangi (First Maori Convert), 45 
 Rangitoto Mt, 62 
 Raratongan Dialect, 41 
 Eata. the, 112. 185 
 Reductions in Government Expen- 
 diture, 141, 142 
 
 Registrar-General's report, 47, 154, 
 169 
 
 Registration, Medical, 223 
 
 Religion, (of all Denominations). 
 139. 153-156 
 
 Reischek, A., 118 
 
 Remittance men, 62, 217 
 
 Remueta, 59, 62 
 
 Resemblance of N.Z. to Italy, 16. 
 123 
 
 Resuscitation of apparently 
 drowned, by the natives, 227 
 
 Revenue, Surplus over Expendi- 
 ture, 153 
 
 Rewa-rewa, 99, 185, 190 
 
 Rheumatism, Thermal Treatment 
 of, 80, 94, 95, 96 
 
 Richardson, Dr. B. W., 217 
 
 Richmond, Hon. J. C., 36 
 
 Riinutaka Pass, the, 170 
 
 Bimu, 99, 112, 190, 228 
 
 Rinking, 206, 207 
 
 Rock of the Taipo, 104 
 
 Rotomahaua, Great Crater of, 128 
 
 Robinson, Sir Hercules, 141 
 
 Rotorua District, 84 
 " Season " 86, 87 
 Township, 83-87 
 
 Routes to New Zealand, 10, 11 
 
 Ruapehu, Mount, 28, 76, 78, 82 
 
 SAILORS' Rests, 177 
 Sailors' Homes, 65, 177 
 Sala, G. A., 208 
 Salutation, the Native, 43 
 Samoan Dialect, 41 
 Sandflies and their bite, 119 
 Scarlet Fever, 225 
 Schmitt, Herr Carl. G8 
 Schools, Native, is 
 School of Applied Science, 162 
 
 Forestry, 22 
 Sects. Harmony among the, 155 
 Self-Help Emigration Societies, 5 
 Selwyn, Bishop, G. A.. 54, 155 
 Sequence of Volcanic Events 
 
 (1883-6) preceding Tarawera, 
 
 122 
 
 Settlement of the Chief Towns. 139 
 Seventy-Mile-Bush, 27 
 Sewell, Hon. Henry, 143 
 " Shilling-a-Month Men," 204 
 Shortland, Lieut-Col. 138 
 Sibilants in Maori, Absence of, 41
 
 252 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Silver, Export of, 186 
 Sinclair, Captain, 110, 115 
 Skey, F. C., Analyst, 76, 86} 
 Skins and Hides, Export of, 122, 
 
 183 
 Skin Diseases, Cured by the 
 
 Springy 94, 95 
 " Slain by Drink," 218 
 Smallpox in N.Z., 233 
 Shaw, Seville, and Albion Co., 10 
 Smith, S. Percy, F.R G.S., 123, 128 
 Social Life, Refinement of, 205 
 Socialistic Revolution, Danger of, 4 
 Sounds, West Coast. The, 109-119 
 Southern Alps, 18, 32 
 Southland, Province, 36, 37 
 Spectral Canoe, Story, 125 
 Spinach, Discovery of, 113 
 Spout Bath, the, 92 
 Stafford, Sir Edward, 143 
 State-Regulated Emigration, 5 
 Stout, Sir Robert, 143 
 Stonewall Jarkson Bath, 90 
 Sub-Tropical Fruits, 21 
 Sunday Closing of Public-houses, 70 
 Supreme Court, the, 168 
 Sutherland Fall, the, 116 
 Svartisen Glacier (Norway), 117 
 Synod of the Church of England in 
 
 New Zealand, 156 
 
 TABLE of Distances, 244 
 
 Taj-Mahal of Agra, 106 
 
 Tamati-Waka-Nene, 136 
 
 Tanekaha Bark (Phyllodadus), 189 
 
 Tangi, 48, 52, 53 
 
 Tapu, 40, 48, 226 
 
 Taranaki, Climate of, 17, 25, 26, 
 
 37 
 
 Tarawera Mountain, 63, 124 
 River, 104, 129 
 Spring, 77 
 Steamer, 109-118 
 Tatooing, 41 
 Tauhara Mt., 133 
 
 Taupo Volcanic Zone, 20, 37, 38, 123 
 Tauranga, 85, 94, 96, 108, 126 
 Tawhiao, " King," 49, 50 
 Tawhai, the late Graham, 55 
 Technical Education, 162 
 Te Ariki, 104, 126,130 
 
 Aroha, 81, 82 
 
 Aute, 27 
 
 Heu-Heu, 135 
 
 Te Ika o Main, 51, 123 
 
 Kute JSpring, 93 
 
 Moura, 130 
 
 Ngae, 52, 108 
 
 Reinga, 53 
 
 Tapui, 92 
 
 Tarata, 104 
 
 Whiti, 49 
 
 Telegrams " Delayed," 173 
 Telephones, 67, 173, 221 
 Temperance Societies, 169 
 Terraces Destroyed, the, 129 
 Thames Gold Mines, 186, 187 
 Thermal Springs District Act, 84 
 Thomas, Professor A. P. W., 161 
 Thompson, Surgeon A. S., 225, 229 
 Thunderstorms, 37 
 Tikitere, 93-95 
 Timaru, 33 
 Tin, 188 
 Tiri-Tiri, 59 
 
 Tobacco, Abuse of, 216, 240 
 Tohunga, 48, 132 
 
 Tougariro, Mount, 16, 82, 133, 135 
 Totara, 99, 185 
 Totalisator, Evil of the, 215 
 Tourists' Tales, 198 
 Towsey, A. J., Ill, 114 
 Trust Office, Public, 175 
 Tuhoto, the Tohunga, 48, 132 
 Tuhourangi Tribe, the, 108, 124 
 Tui (Parson Bird), 23, 99, 209 
 Tupakihi, 99 
 Turikore Spring, 92 
 Tweeds, New Zealand, 181 
 Typhoid Fever, 230-232 
 Tylor, Dr. E. B., 48 
 
 UNION S.S. Co., 61, 110, 149 
 United Kingdom Alliance, 218 
 United States, the, 196, 197, 218 
 Ups and Downs ' of Colonial Life, 
 
 201 
 Utu, 48, 49 
 
 VACCINATION, 232, 233 
 
 with Calf Lymph, 233 
 
 Vancouver, 113 
 Village Settlement, 147 
 Viniculture, 21, 191. 194, 239 
 Vital Statistics, 57, 58, 241, 242 
 Vogel, Sir Julius, 142, 143, 150 
 Volcanic Eruption of Tarawera, 
 126-128
 
 INDEX. 
 
 253 
 
 Volcanic Extinct Craters, 63, 124 
 
 Ash, Dust, and Mud, 
 127-129 
 
 Volcanoes of the Pacific, 120, 121 
 Volunteers, 206 
 
 WAGES in New Zealand, 12, 193 
 Wage-earning Students, 160 
 Wahanui (Maori Chief), 226 
 Wahi-tapu, 48 
 Waiheke I., 62 
 Wailiou River, 81 
 Waihunuhunukuri Spring, 91 
 Waikato, 71, 98 
 Waikite, 91 
 Waimarino, 135 
 Waiorongornai, 81 
 Wai-o-tapu Valley, 108, 133 
 
 Pink Cauldron, 133 
 
 White Terrace, 133 
 Waipu Caves, the, 22 
 Wairakei, 134 
 Waiarapa, 71 
 Wairoa (Tarawera), 102, 126, 129, 
 
 130 
 
 Waitakerei, 197 
 Waitaki, S.S., 98 
 Waitangi, Treaty of, 136, 137 
 Waitemata, 5 1 *, 59, 63 
 Waiwera, 78-81 
 Wangaehu, River, 78 
 Wanganui, 28 
 
 Falls, 135 
 
 River, 27, 135 
 Wasley of Waitakerei, 199 
 Watchman, the, 63 
 Waterhouse, Hon. G. M., 143 
 Weather Stations, 17 
 Weld, Sir Frederick A., 28, 59, 
 
 143 
 Wellington, 28 
 
 Climate, 28 
 
 Earthquakes, 28, 164 
 
 Harbour, 29 
 
 Legislature at, 207 
 
 Population, 29 
 
 Rainfall, 17, 28 
 " Season," the, 207 
 West Coast Sounds, 108-119 
 Fishes, 111 
 Flora, 112 
 Wetland, Climate of, 33 
 Westport Coal, 188 
 
 Wet Jacket Arm, 114 
 Whaling Industry, 190 
 Whakarewarewa, 86, 92, 93, 130 
 Wliaiigapipiro Spring, 88 
 Whangarei, 21, 22 
 Whangaroa, 21 
 
 U'hare (hut), 43. 47, 92, 94, 101 
 Whare-kura (temple), 40 
 Whare-puni (council-room), 50 
 Wheat, Exported, 184 
 land sown in, 183 
 yield per acre, 181 
 Whitaker, Sir Frederick, 143, 144 
 Whitebait in the Rivers, 71 
 White Island (solfataraj, 121, 122 
 White Terrace, the, 104-108, 129 
 Williams, Rev. Henry, 136 
 Withy, Edward, M. H. R., 192 
 Wonderland of North Island, 98- 
 
 108 
 Middle Island.1 08- 
 
 109 
 
 the NEW, 132-135 
 
 Woods, Ornamental Native, 185, 
 
 192 
 Woodville, 27 
 
 Climate, 28 
 Wool, Export of, 180, 181 
 
 favourite staples of, 180 
 Woollen Goods of N.Z., 181 
 
 Mills of N.Z., 181 
 Works and Manufactories (1881-6), 
 
 191 
 
 Worthington, Henry, 114 
 Wounds, how treated by natives, 
 
 226 
 Wright, Dr. A., 82 
 
 YOUNG Men's Christian Association 
 of Auckland, 65, 66 
 
 Young Women's Christian Associa- 
 tion, 66 
 
 Young New Zealand 
 Artistic Taste of, 210, 211 
 Inventiveness of, 195 
 Sobriety of, 217, 240 
 Stoicism of, 203, 204 
 
 ZONES OF CLIMATE, 19, 20 
 Zone No I., 20-27 
 
 No. II., 27-31 
 
 No. III.. 31-37 
 
 No. IV., 20, 37, 38
 
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