NEW ZEALAND EMIGRANT. INVALID. AND TOUBTST, 170 174 178 Three. KTVJ-S If 36|- MJIW ZEA&AftD stowing CITMATIC ZONES English Miles -3** -WiOihg 166 longitude East 170 of Greenwich 174 .; S.Lovr&Co. NEW ZEALAND FOR THE EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND TOURIST. M.D. Usiv. EDIN.; M.R.C.S. ESG.; M.D. NEW ZEALAND UNIVERSITY; F.R.G.S. FELL. ROYAL EOT. Soc. EDIN. ; MEMBER ROYAL MED. Soc. EDIN. ; FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLONIAL INSTITUTE, &c. AUTHOR OP " The Plants of Scripture," " The Poison Oak of California," "Shakspeare and Euphuism," and other Essays. ' The climate's delicate, the air most sweet, 'Fertile the Isle.' WINTER'S TALE, III., ). LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, LIMITED, 5t. Ehmstan's Jtjouse, FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET. 1890. [All rights reserved.] LONDON" : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, hTAMFORI) STREET AKD CHAUING CUOS3. Co SIR WILLIAM FOX, K.O.M.G., J.P., ETC., FORMERLY PREMIER OF NEW ZEALAND, AND LADY FOX, THIS LITTLE BOOK IS DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF MUCH KINDNESS, BV THE AUTHOK. 149103 /^ PREFACE. IF an apology be deemed necessary for adding another volume to the ever-increasing mass of literature relating to the New Zealand of to-day it must be found in the originality of the scope and plan of chapters ii. and v. of this little book. In these have been set forth with care and original research fruits of the author's nine years' professional work in the colony the various Climatic Zones into which New Zealand viewed as a Health-Kesort is divisible, which are here classified for the first time; and a fully detailed account of the characters and therapeutic achievements, up to date, of the principal Thermal Springs of the North Island. The work of accurate investigation and trial of these springs must go on all the time ; and it may be many years before a book on the Thermal Springs of New Zealand equal in value, for example, to " Sutro on the Spas of Europe" can be produced. But I venture to hope that this handbook, imperfect as it is, may serve both the medical profession and the public, as a useful introduction to the climatology and balneology of New Zealand. The original title of the work was to have been " Nine Years in New Zealand," and more than half of the MS. was written before the present .title was adopted ; therefore readers will understand, and, I trust, pardon, any occasional incongruity between the personal and descriptive styles. With a view of rendering the book useful to the three classes of persons specially addressed, each chapter has been made as nearly as possible complete in itself. The emigrant viii PREFACE. will find chapters L, iv., viii., ix., and xi. suited to his requirements ; the invalid will be specially interested in chapters ii., iv., and v. ; while the tourist may study the whole book profitably, except the last chapter, which is written for medical men alone. Perhaps the critics may be reminded that the author is fully conscious of many sins, both of omission and commission, his valid excuse being that the MS. was prepared amid many professional interruptions, and in a provincial city far away from the central offices and libraries where the latest and best information relating to New Zealand is from time to time received. The legislative and financial problems now being- worked out in New Zealand merit more attention from publicists than they receive. If the accomplished author of " Greater Britain " the book which first inspired me with a desire to visit the colonies should bring out a new edition, I hope that he will devote a large section to New Zealand. It seems but fitting that I should here acknowledge with gratitude the renovation of my health, due, under the kind providence of a gracious God, to the health- giving New Zealand air, and that for both my wife and myself .1 should express our warmest thanks to our many Auckland friends for all their kindness, sym- pathy, and generous hospitality during our residence there. That New Zealand will very soon completely emerge from her financial cloud into the full sunshine of prosperity, and that she will become in time the wealthiest and most influential, as she is now the healthiest and most adventurous colony of the Austra- lasian group, is the confident hope and expectation of THE AUTHOR. CASXIXG STREET, LIVERPOOL. November 25th, 1889. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. PAGE The Anglo-Saxon race inclined to wander The colonies and the " globe-trotter " Centrifugal and centripetal laws of emigration Necessity of emigration for the British Restrictions imposed by the United States gives the colonies a chance New Zealand the best field Classes of emigrants not wanted out there Who are wanted Who are likely to succeed Outfit Various routes to the colony Ordinary rates of wages Cost of living .. .. 1 CHAPTER II. THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND, GENERAL AND LOCAL. The differences of Australian and New Zealand climates not generally known to consulting physicians The colonies offer advantages over other health-resorts General clima- tology and meteorology of New Zealand Effects of the mountain ranges and forests The colony divisible into lour climatic zones : 1. North Cape to Napier ; 2. Napier to Hurunui ; 3. Hurunui to Stewart's Island ; 4. Alpine ] 'lateau of North Island Local climatology of Auckland, Whangarei, Napier, Palmerston, Nelson, Picton, Taranaki, Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Queenstown, Inver- car^ill Cautions to Invalids General Summary .. 14 CHAPTER III. THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. The name, origin, and features of the Maori Tattooing Language, with prose and poetical specimens Rhyme for pronunciation History of Old NeWi Zealand Judge CONTENTS. FACE Maning Causes of their decline Customs of tapu, muru, utu, explained Ceremonies of korero, haka, taivji Meaning of mana Bishop Selwyn on the Maori character Old Mohi in " Our Maoris " Conversions to Christianity Chivalry in war Future of the Maori race . . . . 39 CHxiPTER IV. AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. Its position, geographical and commercial importance The " Corinth of the south " Third city in Australasia by population Sheltered Waitemata Inlet Graving-docks, large and small Picturesque approach to the city Public buildings Grey collection of MSS. City government Newspapers Developments of art, music, science, and literature Eecreations Amusing anecdote of the para- chutist Ostrich farm The schoolboy's account of the bird Observance of Sunday Acclimatization of fauna (birds, fishes, &c.) Growth of Auckland during nine years. 57 CHAPTER V. THE MINEBAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. Seventy-three already analyzed Arranged in five classes Description of the three oldest spas : Waiwera, Ta Aroha, Eotorua The new town of Uotorua Its special arrange- ments for visitors Priest's Bath Madame Rachel Blue Bath Pain killer Lake House Baths Oil Bath Wonders of Tikitere Hot waterfall, " Te Kute " Diseases cured by the above Leprosy probably curable by them The " season " for Rotorua thermal treatment Advice to the Invalid, the Tourist, and the Invalid-Tourist .. 74 CHAPTER VI. THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND I EXCURSIONS TO THE HOT LAKES AND TERRACES, AND TO THE WEST COAST SOUNDS. Excursions to Rotonia via Tauranga in December, 1880 Tauranga and its sunset Oropi Beauty of the forest along the Gorge Road Ohinemutu Native " loafers " Bathing, laundry-work, and cooking al fresco Tikitapu Bush Visit to Wairoa, Lake Tarawera, and the Terraces CONTENTS. XI PAGE White Terrace surpasses the Taj Mahal Geysers and fumaroles Pink Terrace and luxurious bathing Return in canoe down the swift hot stream Kaiwaka Fate of the Tuhourangis Scenery of the Middle Island: lakes, mountains, glaciers, fjords Lakes Wakatipu, Te Anan, and Manapouri Annual trip by steamship Tarawera to the West Coast Sounds My visit !in January, 1884 Excel- lent arrangements Port Chalmers Cuttle Cove Dusky Sound and Mr. Doherty Spinach discovered by Cook in Dusky Sound Wet Jacket Arm Hector's theory of the formation of these fjords Caswell Bay and its marble Milford Sound : the Narrows, Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls Ascent of Mitre Peak Sutherland the explorer Suther- land Falls, 1900 feet Reischek and his wonderful dog Return to the Bluff and Port Chalmers Entertainments on board .. .. .. .. .. .. 97 CHAPTER VII. THE VOLCANIC ERUPTION OF MOUNT TAKAWERA. New Zealand a link in the chain of Pacific Ocean volcanoes Principal volcanic eruptions from 1883 to 1886 Upheaval of North Island Great fissure in the earth's crust, running south-west to north-east Taupo volcanic zone : its craters and hot springs The eruption of Mount Tarawera on June 10, 1886 Premonitory signs Results of the erup- tion Loss of life Deaths of C. A. Haszard, E. A. Bainbridge, and Tuhoto The Wonderland that remains Waiotapu Valley New Sinter Terraces forming Pink Cauldron and Crow's Nest Geyser of Wairakei Mount Horo-Horo Lake Taupo The new grand tour : Te Aroha, Rotorua, Ruapehu National Park, to the Upper Wanganui .. .. .. 120 CHAPTER VIII. SELF-GOVERNMENT, AND TUE SETTLEMENT OF THE LAND. History of the colony Treaty of Waitangi, 1840 Several centres of colonization Changes in the constitution Responsible self-government granted in 1853 Governors of New Zealand from 1840 to 1889 Premiers from 1853 to 1889 Premiers I have known Beneficent legislation How the Colonial Debt was incurred Absolute solvency II CONTENTS. PAGE of the colony Laws regulating sale, lease, and transfer of Crown, lands Success of perpetual leasing, and of the village settlements Some previous training necessary for success as a farmer .. .. .. .. .. .. 136 CHAPTER IX. PUBLIC WORKS AND INSTITUTIONS. Their growth Nourished on loans Eeactions and commercial depression Improving prospects and return of prosperity Churches Education : primary, secondary, and university New Zealand University : its statutes, &c. Auckland University College Technical School Otago Medical School Lincoln School of Agriculture The press of New Zealand Hospitals and asylums Police and prisons Public works Post-office and other Government depart- ments Telephones Government insurance Public trus- tee Assignees in bankruptcy Friendly and building societies Sailors' Homes and Rests .. 150 CHAPTER X. PRODUCTIONS AND INDUSTRIES. Natural products evolve certain industries The growth of fifty years Exports now exceed imports in value Statis- tics of the export of wool, meat (frozen and canned), skins and hides, dairy produce, wheat and cereals, timber, kauri gum, gold and silver, other metals, building stone, coal, native flax, fungus, tan bark, petroleum, train-oil Minor industries Reasons for the high tariff Policy of bonuses for new cultures and industries The working- man of New Zealand and the Chinese W. N. Blair on labour and capital Patent law Inventiveness of New Zealanders Humane legislation for women and children in factories .. .. .. .. .. .. 178 CHAPTER XL SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. Its heartiness and unconventionality Tourist's mistakes and exaggerations Ups and downs Ruling forces in society Nouveaux riches The highest education and culture of CONTENTS. Xlll PAGE England appreciated by colonial parents Neighbourly kindness Fire ! Hospitality Effects of flesh-eating on character The " larrikin " The cures for " larrikinism " Recreation out of doors : cricket, football, tennis, cycling, volunteering Indoor amusements: rinking, lectures, chess, Shakspeare and dramatic clubs Music : concerts, amateur vocalists, professional teacher A musical colony Art, Artists, and Art Exhibitions Literature Amateur science Happy and unhappy homes Drinking customs " Lambing down " The slain by drink New Zealand the country for a true home .. .. .. .. 197 CHAPTER XII. PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. Openings for practice, and prospects of new comers Age at which to emigrate Outfit Registration Fees in New Zealand Clubs Working expenses of practice Diseases prevalent among the Maoris Native remedies Singular mode of resuscitation Letter from missionary on causes of decrease of natives Diseases of the colonists Typhoid fever : cause, prevention, and mortality The Exanthemata Diphtheria maligna cases Poisoning from tinned meat and from Ptomaines Phthisis pulmonalis Cases arrested by New Zealand climate Phthisis laryngea Bronchitis and cynanche benefited by Auckland climate Entozoa common Caries of teeth No Ague in New Zealand Case of Katipo bite Diseases arising from abuse of alcohol and tobacco Lunacy in New Zealand Vital statistics Conclusion . . 219 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. MAP OF NEW ZEALAND .... To face Title-page. VIEW OF AUCKLAND HAEBOUR AND NORTH SHORE page 24 MAP OF THE HOT LAKE DISTRICT 97 MAP OF THE WEST COAST SOUNDS 108 MAP OF THE TAUPO VOLCANIC ZONE 120 NEW ZEALAND EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND TOURIST. CHAPTER I. MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. The Anglo-Saxon race inclined to wander The Colonies and the " globe-trotter " Centrifugal and Centripetal laws of Emigration Necessity of emigration for the British Restrictions imposed by the United States give the colonies a chance New Zealand the best field Classes of immigrants not wanted out there Who are wanted Who are likely to succeed Outfit Various routes to New Zealand Ordinary rates of wages Cost of living. THAT man is a migratory animal is evident from the history of the past, and the development of coloniza- tion in the present day. Of all races of mankind the Anglo-Saxon race has shown that a genuine love for home can co-exist with an ardent desire to explore new regions, to conquer the difficulties presented both by the barbarian inhabitant and by Nature, and even to make a new and a permanent settlement in lands far remote from his native soil. Bound as this great race is, some day, to dominate the civilized world, it behoves the stay-at-home Briton, who, at his comfortable fireside, may read the news of the globe, to keep himself well informed of the cha- racteristics, resources, and progress of that " Greater Britain " upon which the sun never sets. This is essentially a travelling age ; and the English- man of wealth and culture, who formerly used to confine B 2 NEW ZEALAND. his excursions to the continent of Europe, now takes bolder and longer flights. He crosses the " herring pond " to the United States and Canada ; he rushes down to Cape Colony in eighteen days ; in three weeks from leaving London he finds himself in India ; and even the far-off Antipodes are becoming known to him. The term " globe-trotter " has been coined to suit him the origin of this word I leave to Dr. Murray to find out which admirably conveys the manner of the hasty tourist. Now that " Thomas Cook and Sons " have annexed New Zealand, no great social distinction will attach to the traveller who has " done " that country ; but its beauties will become much more extensively known, and they are on such a scale that nothing can vulgarise them. The " globe-trotter " is sometimes seized with a desire to leave his foggy Albion, and settle for the rest of his days in some balmy Eden of the Southern Pacific, or some Neapolitan-like city, such as Auckland, and when he carries out this idea he seldom regrets his choice. Feeling grateful to New Zealand for the renovation of my health, which was much broken down in 1879, and having made many careful observations of the me- teorology, mineral springs, and various Zones of Climate of that country, I have incorporated these and other results of nine years' experience in this little Hand- book for the Emigrant, Tourist, and Invalid. In a work of this scope it is not desirable to enter at length into the native question, colonial history, colonial politics, or debatable problems of political economy. I have only introduced such matters to such an amount as would make the book complete. Such features of social life as are discussed in these pages are treated candidly and impartially, with a sincere desire to " Naught extenuate Nor aught set down in malice." It is my conviction, based upon a happy experience, that derives some value from my having resided in the course of my life in three quarters of the world, that MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 3 there is no country over which our grand old flag waves, where a Briton can make as comfortable a home as he can in New Zealand. If an invalid, he must make a careful selection of the locality ; and this work will supply the information needed. But let us turn to the question of emigration, and the need for it. In the present day we may clearly distinguish two general laws regulating emigration and immigration a centrifugal law and a centripetal law. By the force of the former law, the Englishman, a citizen of the greatest maritime empire of all time, is impelled to explore unknown seas and lands, to colonize and to trade in all parts of the world. Geography being now taught in schools more intelligently than of yore, and books of thrilling adventure firing the imagination of youth, boys and girls become familiar with the de- scription of foreign countries, and long to visit them. A love for travel is characteristic of the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race ; but the Englishman will colonize, while the American merely stays for a time. Germany is now waking up to her need of colonies, incited doubtless by the irresistible power of this Centrifugal Law, which 1 has gained for little England her glorious colonial empire. On the other hand there is a Centripetal Law, which counterbalances, but only to a slight extent, the Centrifugal Law. When the Briton has prospered in the Colonies, in the United States, or in foreign countries, he often retires to London or to some part of his native country to end his days. Or, not being able to leave the land of his adoption, he sends his sons and daughters "Home" to be educated. Every year a larger number of highly cultured Americans adopt England as their home. The marriage of American ladies with the nobility of England exhibits this centripetal tendency. And it is more and more becoming the fashion for the wealthy Australian to settle in England, become a member of a leading London club, and enter Parliament. Let me here B 2 4 NEW ZEALAND. observe that the affectionate and becoming expression " Home " is applied to Great Britain throughout the Australasian colonies. The highest standard of every department of knowledge is supposed to exist at " Home," and I am quite convinced that the colonies are both loyal to the Crown and eager to form their centres of culture upon British models. Seeing that the area of Great Britain, as it is now parcelled out, is insufficient to support our population, increasing as it does by more than 300,000 persons annually, after allowing for loss by death and by emigration, we must all feel glad that now we recognize emigration to be a positive necessity to avert a socialistic revolution, we have a " Greater Britain " beyond the seas, where " A man is a man if he is willing to toil, And the humblest may gather the fruits of the soil." It is calculated by A. McDougal of Manchester that at least five and a half millions of our fellow country- men, above the grade of paupers, live in miserable poverty, huddled together in stifling courts and alleys, living from hand to mouth, and never sure of three days' consecutive employment. Another alarming but true statement is made by an unexceptionable authority on statistics, viz., that during the last quarter of a century the foreign population of England has increased by 135 per cent. England is now almost the only civilized country that admits all nationalities, whether paupers or not, to settle within her territory, without any restriction whatever. This very large immigration of foreigners has not only lowered the wages (as in the east end of London) of English handicraftsmen to starvation point, but has left and is leaving a large residuum of helpless foreign-born paupers to be sup- ported by the poor rates in London, and in the large provincial towns. In some lines of industry, I am in- formed that the Germans are actually crowding out our own working-men. The time is come when statesmen and philanthropists MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 5 should use all their energies to grapple with these sad facts, and should regard as a means of relief the vast field presented for immigration by our colonies. State- assisted or State-regulated emigration should be con- sidered as already a " burning question." Meantime the Self-help Emigration Societies of London, Liverpool, Manchester, and other cities, are doing a good work, though on a small scale, in the right direction. I feel strongly that now that the United States is adopting measures restrictive of immigration, which bear more hardly on our own population than on that of other European countries, the time for our colonists to show a generous spirit, and for the imperial Govern- ment to reciprocate it, has arrived. Nothing can strengthen the bonds of love between the mother country and her children more than the settlement in the colonies of steady industrious men and women, who will remain under the same sovereign and the same old flag, and who can never forget that both they and we are of one blood, one language, and, in a broad sense, of one religion. It is in the hope of placing the advantages offered by the picturesque, fertile, and healthy colony of New Zealand before the British public, and of dispelling some erroneous impressions conveyed by mere passing travellers most of whom commit their crude experiences to print on their return that I have ventured this little barque upon the ocean of literature. Apart from a roving spirit and love of adventure, men leave the old country of their own free will only for one cause " to better themselves," in pocket, health, social or political position, or to work out a new line for themselves in life which they have not attempted before. To a Briton who wishes to remain under his native standard, the Australasian colonies offer a healthier climate than that of India or of the West Indies. New Zealand, moreover, presents a magnificent choice of climates as I shall demonstrate in chapter ii. in none of which exists either the arctic cold of Canada, or the broiling intense solar heat of the Cape or of 6 NEW ZEALAND. Australia. Statistics show that the land there is the most productive, when tilled, of all the agricultural colonies ; and that, while no spot in the whole of the three islands is more than seventy-five miles from the sea, none is more than ten miles from a lake, stream, or river of drinkable water. The emigrant need have no fear of native, coolie, or Chinese cheap labour in New Zealand. The influx of the yellow man has been checked by an impost of 10 per head per annum. The Maoris work for themselves, but seldom for others, and are not fond of manual labour as yet. On landing in a New Zealand port, the new arrival will scarcely notice anything foreign or ' un-English ' around him, except, indeed, the absence of seedy and ragged boys and girls, and out-at-elbows idlers, who in the old country beset the traveller to get money from him by begging or by trivial and unasked attentions. The cheerful, well-fed, well-clothed appearance of working men, women and children is also ' un-English.' It is well to point out, now that we have arrived at the stage of the desirability of New Zealand for the emi- grant, that by the latest private and official sources of information, the only classes of immigrants required in the colony are : (1) female domestic servants ; (2) farmers with capital ; (3) agricultural labourers ; (4) shepherds and herdmen. No assistance in paying any part of the passage-money is now given by the Govern- ment, which is carefully retrenching its expenses. All other trades, occupations, and professions are now so full in the colony that it is difficult for a new arrival to find work. Certain facts are forgotten sometimes by too eloquent emigration agents ; for instance, (1) that the birth-rate in New Zealand is very high, amounting in some years to 38'5 per cent., and that the colony will complete its first half-century in 1890. It follows, as a consequence, that there are hundreds of New Zealand boys and girls, all of very fair education, ready and eager to fill situations, to enter offices, learn trades, and to get into the large Civil Service of the Government, which also MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 7 practically includes the great Education Department. Lawyers, teachers, clerks, governesses, lady helps, clergymen, artists, and even musicians are not well advised to go out just now to settle in New Zealand. I say " even musicians," because all the cities and towns of the colony are musical. Clergymen with high testi- monials from home can sometimes obtain an appoint- ment, generally of smaller value than that they left in England. Barristers, solicitors, and attorneys are qualified by study and examination within the colony. There is also a theological training college, providing clergymen for the Maoris and the country districts of New Zealand. No complete medical education has as yet been given in the colony, though the University of New Zealand has the power to confer the degrees of M.B. and M.D., after a course of study and several examinations, equal to those of Edinburgh University. It is said that in four or five years the first undergraduate will be duly qualified for his degree. There are now (1889) 495 medical practitioners on the colonial register, and 107 dentists, the white population being estimated at 610,000. Openings do occur here and there for doctors, and sometimes with a minimum income guaranteed, but they are quickly snapped up. In the Church and in Medicine the colonists prefer men fresh from home; but in other lines the " new chum " has to yield to the man who has had already some colonial experience. Nor do colonists want any men who have been failures in the old country. They are good-hearted enough to give such a man " another chance," but woe to him if he neglects or misuses it or fails at it altogether! They are sharp and shrewd in judging character, and he does not get another such opening. Smartness and common sense are essential to success in New Zealand. Even an honest and faithful employe, if dull and slow, may have to give place to a " smarter " man. But the bright and bracing climate stimulates the faculties of the whole nature of the immigrant, so that he who has been slow, unintelligent, and depressed 8 NEW ZEALAND. in England, becomes quick, lively, hopeful, and ener- getic in the " Britain of the South." Having seen several disastrous wrecks of men and women shunted, as it were, from England on to this colony, I do not blame New Zealanders for indignantly protesting against the practice that has grown up at home of exiling the family scapegrace or ne'er-do-weel to their country, simply because it is geographically the most distant point he can reach. The colony is not a safe reformatory for the habitual drunkard, gambler, or profligate. Such a man will find boon companions to share his vices so long as he has a shilling to spend. The end is the hospital, the refuge, the asylum, the prison, or the suicide's grave. It is not fair to the honest and hard-working citizens to send among them men who spread a blight around them wherever they wander. The hopefullest of mothers of these prodigal sons should remember that truest of Horatian maxims "Coelum, non animum mutant, qui trans mare currant." A young, healthy, single man, of good morals and principles, energetic and ready to "rough it," with a handicraft of some kind at which he is expert, is the type of emigrant that will succeed in New Zealand. If he leaves old England with hope in his bosom, faith in his heart, and love to his fellow-man beaming from his eyes, always ready to do a good turn, handy and hard-working, and skilled in his own particular trade, he will not fail of getting remunerative employment. With a very small capital he can buy land on one of the easy systems described in chapter vii. ; he will marry a practical, sensible colonial girl (splendid house- wives they make !) and having given his children a free education better than he ever had, will place them out in life much earlier than he could have done in England. The sons that take to farming will have the advantage of knowing how to farm in New Zealand not by any means the same thing as English farming ; and thus a second generation will grow up, industrious, prosperous, and contented. MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 9 The poet Campbell had the right idea of this type of emigrant. " The pride to rear an independent shed, And give the lips we love unborrowed bread; To see a world from shadowy forest won, In youthful beauty wedded to the sun. To skirt our home with harvests widely sown, And call the blooming landscape all our own ; Our children's heritage, in prospect long; These are the hopes high-minded hopes and strong That beckon England's wanderers o'er the brine, To realms where foreign constellations shine." If a man desirous of farming land arrives in the colony with capital, let him put his money into the Government Savings Bank, where it will earn four per cent., and travel up the country, getting employ- ment wherever he can for a few months, until he has gained the necessary experience. Just now numerous " bargains " in the shape of well-improved farms are to be picked up, but as the colony gradually rights itself after the late depression these will be absorbed. The newcomer must be careful not to pay too high a price for an improved farm. The small capitalist, equally with the man who has only a few pounds, will have to work hard upon his land and await results. Crown land for sale is generally remote from towns, and requires clearing, fencing, " burning off," sowing, &c., before any living can be made out of it. The cry of the New Zealand farmer now is, " Oh, that we had cheap labour ! " And the agricultural labourers that may go out there should take this hint, so that no Oriental race may gradually creep in ; for New Zealand should be kept for the European races to people and possess. The best time of year for the intending settler to arrive in New Zealand is during the months of Sep- tember, October, and November for the North Island, and at any time during the summer (November to March) for the Middle (usually but erroneously termed the "South") Island. His outfit should include a large stock of clothes, his 10 NEW ZEALAND. books, tools, and any labour-saving machines he may have, for there is a high protective tariff in New Zealand. If he contemplates making his abode in Auckland, Napier, or New Plymouth, he should bring lighter clothes, both outer and inner garments, than he would wear in England. For other parts the ordinary English clothes will suffice. For the long summer the helmet is inevitable. Umbrellas and waterproofs should not be forgotten, because of the high price of these articles in the colony. Eeally good (not half- worn) furniture should also be taken or sent by ship to New Zealand if economy is an object. We now come to the choice of routes for New Zealand. The old days of a three to six months' sea voyage by sailing ship are drawing to a close, for the two companies who are running large steamers, carrying mails, direct to the colony, carry steerage passengers for the very moderate rate of 16 to 21, giving three liberal meals per diem, plenty of cabin space, and landing them in from thirty-seven to forty- four days from port to port. I can bear witness from personal knowledge, having returned to England on the Tainui, that the Shaw, Savill, and Albion Company treat this and the other two classes of passengers most generously as to food and accommodation. 1. This company start their steamers, the Araiva, Tainui, Ionic, and Coptic, each from 4400 to 5000 tons, on alternate fortnights with those of the New Zealand Shipping Company, the Aorangi, Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Rimutaka, all magnificent and fast vessels of 4170 tons. The steamers leave the West India Docks on Thursday and call at Plymouth on the Saturday for mails and passengers. Going out, they all call at Tene- rifife (Santa Cruz), Cape Town, and Hobart (Tasmania). On the homeward voyage they visit Rio de Janeiro and Teneriffe. The first-class fare is 63, return 105 and 115, the second-class 40, return 60. 2. Another route is via the Mediterranean, Suez Canal, Red Sea, and Indian Ocean, by the magnificent steamers of the Orient and the Peninsular and Oriental MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 11 companies ; the average length of the outward voyage being forty days to Sydney, thence by Union Company of New Zealand steamer, or by the San Francisco mail steamer, four and a half to five days to Auckland. Fares, first-class 63 and 70, second-class 42, steerage seventeen guineas to 22. Travellers who can choose the best season for passing through the Eed Sea, say, January and February, and who can take plenty of time, may enjoy this route by stopping at Naples to see Pompeii, &c., or at Port Said to see Alexandria, Cairo, and the Pyramids, and proceeding by the next following steamer (fortnightly) of the line they have selected. There are fewer long stretches of ocean upon this route than on the first one described. 3. Lastly, we have the fast mail route via New York across the United States by the Union and Central Pacific railroads to San Francisco, thence by American built steamers to Honolulu, Tutuila (Samoa), and Auckland. By this mail I have often received letters on the thirty-fourth day after their despatch from Liverpool. But no one would for choice travel across at this speed. To those tourists who do not regard expense much, who dread sea-sickness, can sleep on the railroad journey, or have friends in the United States, this is the best route. The through fare, first-class, from London or Liverpool to Auckland, Wellington, Dunedin, or Christchurch is 66 to 72, but to this must be added cost of sleeping-car, drawing-room car, and meals on the train, and hotel and carriage expenses. Probably 110 would cover the whole trip. The most agreeable season of the year for this route is, going west, to start in July, August, or September, and, going homewards, to start in March, April, or May. It is interesting to see that Jules Verne's romance is now a realizable fact, for a traveller can go round the world in eighty days. As Messrs. Thomas Cook and Sons have now included New Zealand in their excursion scheme, travel to the colony and through it will be simplified and cheapened. 12 NEW ZEALAND. A round-the-world ticket, to go by one route and return by another, can be purchased for 140. To the visitor I would say further, " obtain and use any good letters of introduction to New Zealand residents that you can get." To the emigrant and intending settler I would say the same, but add, " do not base any hopes of immediate employment upon them." The following definite official information respecting the wages now prevailing in the colony, the cost of the necessaries of life, of clothing, house-rent, &c., will be found useful by the emigrant. WAGES BY THE WEEK, WITH BOARD. Auckland. Wellington. Canterbury. Otago. 2s. to 20s. 15s. to 20s. 12s. to 20s. 15s. to 20s. Domestic ser-) vants . ./ Laundresses . 12s. 15s. 12s. 14s. 10s. 15s. 10s. 15s. r-) ... , n 10 , n 1C . , n vants . ./ 8s " 10s ' 8s> 12s> 10s ' los * 10s> WAGES PER WEEK THROUGHOUT THE COLONY, WITHOUT BOABD. Bakers ..... 20s. to 45s. Butchers .... 25s. 50s. Shoemakers .... 30s. 50s. Tailors ..... 30s. 40s. WAGES PEE DAY THROUGHOUT THE COLONY, WITHOUT BOARD. Blacksmiths Bricklayers Brickmakers Carpenters Painters Masons . Shipwrights Miners. General labourers 7s. to 12s. 7s. 12s. 6s. 8s. 6s. 10s. 6s. 9s. 6s. to 10s. 8s. 12s. 6s. 12s. 5s. ,,, 7s. Cost of Living in New Zealand. 1. House-rent is perhaps the heaviest item in the expenditure of the working man. The rent of a three- roomed cottage (of wood) is about 6s. ; of larger houses, MIGRATION, EMIGRATION, AND IMMIGRATION. 13 suitable for workmen, from 8s. to 14s. per week in towns ; in the country, 4s. to 10s. per week. Furnish- ing is from seventy-five to 100 per cent, more expensive than at home. 2. Board and lodging may be had in any of the towns for a single adult for 15s., 17s. 6d., or 1 per week. 3. Clothing of the cheaper qualities, most worn by the working classes, is from fifteen to twenty-five per cent, dearer than at home. But the more expensive materials, broadcloth, silk, flannel, &c., are fully thirty to fifty per cent, higher. 4. There are numerous benefit societies, the rules of which provide medical attendance and medicine in sickness free to members. Medical fees and the price of drugs are higher than in England. 5. By means of the building societies a frugal and constantly employed workman or tradesman can, on easy terms, become possessor of a freehold house and allotment in three to seven years. COST OF PROVISIONS, KETAIL, IK NEW ZEALAND. (Liable to fluctuations.) Auckland. Wellington. Christchurch. Dunedin. Beef, per Ib 2d. to 6d. 2d. to 5d. 3d. to Gd. 4d. to 6d. Mutton .... lid. 4d. lid. 4d. lid. 4d. 2fZ. Sid. Butter V 1/3 6d. I/ 9d. Wd. lOd. l/ Cheese , 6d. Id. 4d. 9d. 3d. 6d. 6d. Id. Tea 1/10 2/10 1/6 3/ 1/8 3/ a/ 3/ Coffee .... 1/1 1/10 1/3 1/8 1/10 2/ 1/8 1/10 Sugar .... 3d. 4d. 2d. 4d. l>id. 4d. 3id. 4id. Bread, per 4-lb. loaf . . 3+d. 6d. 4*d. Id. 4d. 5d.. 6d. Milk, per quart . . . 3id. 4d. 5d. Sd. Potatoes, per cwt. . . V ,, 6/ 3/ 5/ 3/ 5/ 5d. Coal, per ton .... 25/ 50/ 30/ 50/ 32/ 42/ 30/ to 55/ Firewood varies, according to season of the year, and proximity to forests, from 10*. to 2 per ton. 14: NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER II. THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND: GENEEAL AND LOCAL. Differences of Australian and New Zealand climate not sufficiently recognized by consulting physicians Advantages of the colonies for the British invalid General climate of New Zealand Topography Meteorology Effects of mountain ranges and forests Muggy weather and its antidote Four subordinate zones of climate : 1. North Cape to Napier ; 2. Napier to Hurunui; 3. Hurunui to South Island; 4. Alpine Plateau of North Islands-Particular features and suitability to various pulmonary diseases Auckland, Whangarei, Napier, Palmerston, Nelson, Picton, Christchurch, Dunedin, Invercargill Cautions to invalids General summary. THE previous chapter having been chiefly devoted to the emigrant, we now turn to the interests of the health- seekers, of whom hundreds are now familiarized more or less by personal experience with the bright skies and perpetual sunshine of the Australasian colonies. Travel by the routes we have described being now made both moderate in cost and luxurious in every detail ; the horrid mal-de-mer having been reduced to its minimum by the shortened passage between the ports of call ; and hotel accommodation, railway, steamer, and coach facilities having permeated even the wildest parts of such recent acquisitions as New Zealand and Tasmania, the invalid may now regard the former colony as an easily accessible health resort. Fashionable consultants in my own profession have been in the habit hitherto of sending their consump- tive or nerve-exhausted patients to New Zealand or Australia, chiefly for the sake of the voyage. But they have not given sufficient attention to the differences of climate between (1) Australia, Tasmania, and New THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 15 Zealand, and (2) between the different districts of the last-mentioned colony. While Australia, as a whole, is a much drier country than New Zealand, less stormy, and therefore more suitable for some forms of consumption, experience shows that it is so violent and sudden a contrast to the English climate as to make the transition injurious to many consumptive and debilitated invalids. The experience during the first few days after landing of a hot wind in Sydney or in Adelaide, or of a " southerly burster " in Melbourne, makes a sick man regret the termination of his ocean voyage. But on the inland mountain plateaux, such as the Darling Downs of Queensland, health is often restored, even in a pronounced case of the second stage of consumption, and life in that dry bracing air, though under a hot sun, becomes enjoyable. It is my duty to lay before my readers, both lay and medical, the obser- vations and conclusions derived from nine years' sojourn as to the Four General Climatic Zones into which New Zealand may be divided for the purposes of the valetudinarian and his advisers. The British who travel for health become in time tired of foreign countries, and look round the world for a region where pure and bracing or mild air, interesting natives, beautiful scenery, good water for drinking, mineral baths, their accustomed food, convenient ex- cursions, and pleasant society may be enjoyed among people of their own language. All these advantages, together with an unsurpassed climate, are to be found in New Zealand. When tired of the "mistral" or "bise," of the noise and dust of the Kiviera, of the demoralizing gaming-tables, and of the parasites who hang on to the visitors at all foreign resorts, the invalid of the future will fly on the wings of steam to the realm of the Southern Cross, and " By the long wash of Australasian seas," will find in New Zealand, at Auckland, the Bay of Islands, Napier, Eotorua, or Nelson, a new world of calm delight, in a balmy yet invigorating atmosphere. 16 NEW ZEALAND. The General Climate of New Zealand. The three islands forming, with three groups of islets (Auckland Islands, Chatham Islands, Kermadee Islands), the colony of New Zealand extend from north to south through 13 of S. Lat., and from east to west through nearly 13 of E. Long. The colony possesses a coast- line of over 3000 miles, and mountain chains run through all the three islands, North, Middle, and South or Stewart's Island. In the North Island the chief mountains are in the centre and near the east coast ; in the Middle Island they are near the west coast ; so that the plains of the North and of the Middle Islands are on opposite sides. On glancing at the map, the reader will notice the singular resemblance in figure of the whole colony to Italy reversed, and amputated, as it were, from the continent of Europe. The promontories of Gargano and of Ancona in the older country seem whimsically reproduced in those of Akaroa and of Port Chalmers in the new. The active volcano Vesuvius has its counterpart in Mount Tongariro, and the more recent volcano, Mount Tarawera. The climate of the Auckland provincial district is not unlike that of South Italy and of Sicily. I need not enlarge on other correspondences. The area of the whole colony is 104,000 square miles, about one-sixth less than the entire area of Great Britain and Ireland. As no point in the colony is more than 75 miles from the coast, and as two straits Cook's Strait, thirteen miles across, and Foveaux Straits, fifteen miles wide, separate the three islands, the climate of the colony, as a whole, is insular, and tolerably equable. It is certainly warmer than that of Great Britain, for it lies within the southern temperate zone. The average temperature for the whole year is, in the North Island, 57, in the Middle Island, 52. For the whole colony the mean temperature for the summer is 63, for the winter 48, for the spring 55, and for the autumn 57. In the northern part of the North Island there is no true THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 17 spring nor autumn, but only a hot season November to April, inclusive ; and a cold and wet season, May to October, inclusive. During three-quarters of the year a healthy man may sleep out of doors with impunity to health, if furnished with simply a blanket and a mackintosh, anywhere in the North Island. The most important fact for invalids is the smallness of the mean daily range of temperature, which is from 15 to 20 only, showing great equability of climate. Next to this, the average annual rainfall must be studied, for it varies much in different districts, as the following table will show : MEAN ANNUAL RAINFALL, FOR EIGHTEEN YEARS, ENDING 1884. (In inches, omitting decimals.) North Island. Auckland ... 45 Taranaki ... 58 Napier .... 37 Wellington . 50 South Island. Christchurch . . 25 Dunedin ... 32 Southland ... 43 Hokitika . 112 The principal towns of New Zealand are all abundantly supplied with good drinking water, whereas the Australian capitals, lying along the edge of a sun-baked continent, often suffer from drought, and have to obtain their potable water from a distance at a large expense. The New Zealand Government has an efficient Meteorological Department, the weather reports being telegraphed every morning at nine o'clock to the chief at Wellington from twenty -five stations at various elevations, and then posted up at all the principal ports and inland towns, together with Captain Edwin's fore- casts of the weather, about two-thirds of which have been verified in Auckland, during the time I resided there. Periods of lasting drought in New Zealand are un- known. Only in two instances during the last twenty years do the meteorological records at any one station show that a whole month passed without rain a fact very encouraging to the farmer who is thus assured of water for his crops. The region north of Auckland c 18 NEW ZEALAND. comes within the limits of the winter sub-tropical rain- fall, but in the Middle and South Islands the rain is distributed more equally over all the months of the year. On the west coast rain is more prevalent in spring and on the east coast in summer. The table on p. 17 shows remarkable differences between the rain- falls at different places on or about the same parallel of latitude ; for instance, Napier on the east has only half the rain of New Plymouth (Taranaki) on the west, while Hokitika on the west of the Middle Island has four and a half times the amount that falls at Christ- church on the east. The proximity of Mount Egmont (8260 feet) to New Plymouth, and of the Southern Alps to Hokitika account for this fact, and so, in like manner, for other examples. It should be noted that the mountains of the North Island are still mostly covered with forest " bush " it is called by colonists but those of the Middle Island are open, well grassed with " tussock," and can be used for pasture. But so quickly are the forests of the Auckland district being cut down for the valuable Kauri pine (Dammara Aiistralis) that a distinct decrease in the average annual rainfall there has been noticed already, and is still going on. As a slight means of comparison as to rainfall, I may mention that during 1882 rain fell on 191 days in Auckland, on 166 in Wellington, and on 187 in Dunedin. The winds most prevalent round the coasts of the colony are from the west, south-west, and south. When a storm centre passes to the south of New Zealand, westerly winds prevail, and they are always cold. But when the centre of barometric depression goes round the North Cape (see map No. 1) the result is that north-east winds strike the east coast, bringing with them clouds, rain, and warm mist. This forms the weather called " muggy " by the Aucklanders and others, which is disagreeably enervating as long as it lasts. After three or four days it is followed by its exact opposite, a cold bracing south-west wind with dry weather and a clear blue sky. In winter this south- THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 19 west wind in the Middle and South Islands is accom- panied with heavy storms of rain and snow. It is really astonishing how cheerfully one fresh from the gloom of wet days in London, Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, or other huge smoky cities, can wait indoors in New Zealand for the cessation of a rain-storm. There is almost always a glimpse of blue sky somewhere and what a blue! Read Froude's eloquent description in " Oceana." And there is an exhilaration in the air, only temporarily veiled by the transient " muggy " weather. As most health-seekers leave England for the prevention, alleviation, or cure of some pulmonary disease, my classification of the various belts of climate in this colony now for the first time attempted is based upon their adaptiveness, suitability, or unsuit- ability for invalids coming under this head, as well as for those whose nerve-centres require a change of climate and scenery. The foregoing facts concerning the general climate of New Zealand will already afford some useful hints to the reader as to choice of locale. While it would not be quite accurate to establish isothermal lines dividing these four Zones of Climate, yet the fact is that a similar average temperature during any particular month of the year is found to exist at any part of the zone, except indeed when a cold breeze or rain is lowering the heat of the air in summer at one spot and not at another. "Windy Wellington," for example, is a nick-name familiar to all New Zealanders, based on its meteorology, and therefore that city feels heat less than Wanganui, Woodville, or Napier in summer. These divisions of climate are as follows : 1st. A zone of latitude extending from the North Cape, S. lat. 34 20', southwards to Napier, and across the North Island to Hawera, S. lat. 39 30' Zone No. 1. 2nd. A zone stretching from this line southwards to the Hurunui River and Hokitika, both in the Middle Island Zone No. 2. c 2 20 NEW ZEALAND. 3rd. A zone reaching from the Hurunui Eiver to the southern coast line of the Middle Island, and including the South or Stewart's Island Zone No. 3. 4th. An Alpine plateau, comprising a large portion of the middle of the North Island, extending upwards from an elevation of 1000 feet above sea level this we may designate Zone No. 4. This zone is cut out of No. 1, being a distinctly different climate as regards its effects upon visitors, and must be regarded as an atmospheric rather than a terrestrial zone, a highland zone as compared with the lowlands. This zone includes the whole " Taupo Volcanic Zone " of map No. 3. ZONE I. This climate is the warmest and mildest in the whole colony. The North Cape being nearly on the same parallel of south latitude as Sydney, Adelaide, Cape Town, and Buenos Ayres, we should expect this extreme north district to be very warm. And it is found by experiment that bananas, guavas, oranges, lemons, citrons, and other tropical and sub-tropical fruits can be grown there. But the constant sea breezes and saline moisture arising from the narrowness of the " toes of the boot " (see map No. 1), as we may call the north end of the North Island, and from the numerous estuaries running up far into the land, together with the exhalations from the forests which clothe most of the hills and valleys, all these features soften the dryness of the heated atmosphere, and produce, without malaria (such as exists in Florida and Jamaica), a wholesome warm climate, equable in its range of temperature, where men can work hard at manual labour all summer without a siesta at mid-day. By common consent this climate is considered the most delicious in New Zealand. The mean average of the yearly temperature is 59 in the shade for the northern part of the zone. At Mongonui (S. lat.35l'), the northernmost meteorological THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 21 station in New Zealand, the maximum shade temperature in summer was 89, and the minimum in winter 31, for a period of ten years ; while the mean summer temperature was only 66*56, showing hoV much the solar rays were tempered by the proximity of the sea. Fertile valleys, rich in virgin soil, intersect the country from N.E. to S. W., and N. to S., where fruits of every kind, both sub-tropical and those of cold climates, tobacco, sorghum, sugar-beet, coffee, tea, and the white mulberry (for the silk-culture) may be profitably cultivated. The average rainfall over the district extending from the North Cape, Cape Eeinga (the Maori Hades), and Cape Maria van Diemen to Whangarei on the east coast and Port Albert on the west, is 51 '7 inches, of which the greater part falls during the months of May, June, July, August, and September. There is no frost in winter near the coast, and but slight and transient phases of it in valleys shaded from both sun and sea breeze in the interior. The bold and picturesque volcanic scenery of the harbours of Whangaroa and Parua Bay ; the cascades that are found in the valleys ; the wild ferns, many of them esteemed as rare by European connoisseurs, and all of them wonderfully well grown ; and the luxuriance of all vegetation, make this part of Zone I. most attractive to the visitor. Near Whangarei, 75 miles north of Auckland by sea, where the alluvial drift rests upon limestone rock, there are both extensive orangeries, citron, lime, and lemon groves, and the most prolific vineries in New Zealand. The " dessert grapes " usually carry off the prizes at the Auckland annual show. The worthy station-master here (Mr. Dobie) has cultivated oranges for fifteen years past so successfully that no visitor passes through without a sight of them, and his success has stimulated others to start the same culture elsewhere. Mr. Geo. E. Alderton, in his useful treatise " Orange Culture in New Zealand," has shown that North Auckland has several places where the soil, with proper culture, the climate, and the rainfall are excellently 22 NEW ZEALAND. adapted for raising this fruit to a profit. At an outlay of 750, in three years, 1000 orange trees planted on ten acres of suitable land will from the fourth year realise a profit, and by the end of the sixth year not only repay the 750, but leave a large balance for the proprietor. The School of Forestry and Experimental Fruit- growing Farm, established by the Government, is situated near this pleasant and healthful town. For the visitor there are lovely walks, drives, and excursions to the falls, to the limestone caves of Waipu and of Whangarei, and to the mineral springs of Kamo. In winter Whangarei is a safer place for consumptives than even Auckland, becaiise of its sheltered position, and of its limestone subsoil. The chalybeate spring at Kamo, seven miles by rail from Whangarei, is a valuable tonic. Though not far from the sea, this town has some of the advantages of an inland place. For instance, I have known asthmatic invalids who could spend the winter in Whangarei in comfort, while they suffered in Auckland. There is less chance of contracting rheumatism in this district the same may be said of Napier also than in other towns near the sea in this Zone. Throughout the whole area of this Zone, the climate is beneficial to cases of scrofula, of strumous glands, of enlarged joints and rickety bones in children, and of skin diseases of a strumous origin. The abundance and excellent quality of both meat, milk, butter, and eggs, vastly improve the pale unhealthy children born and reared in the large cities of England, where they can neither have this nourishing diet, nor breathe the pure oxygen of the New Zealand air. The tourist of botanical tastes may be interested to learn that the flora of the Auckland provincial district comprises 675 species of flowering plants, and 123 of ferns and fern allies, including nearly every native plant, shrub, or tree of known economic value. The very valuable Kauri ipine^Dammara Austrcdis, Coniferse) grows nowhere out of this district. The naturalist will THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 23 find great interest in searching for the native birds and insects, yearly becoming scarcer, because driven out before the more vigorous or rapacious fauna of Europe. The Little Barrier island, N.E. of the Kawau, lying off the coast near Rodney Point, is one of the few remaining haunts of the rarer avifauna of New Zealand. The sportsman can enjoy shooting pheasants, wild duck, and partridges, or the tui, korimako, kaka, kakapo, and a variety of small birds of the parrot tribe, which relieve the silence of the dense woods. Taking the whole colony, there is no country in the world more rich in ferns than New Zealand, and none as wealthy in native woods, which take a fine polish for ornamental pur- poses. The kiwi, a wingless bird the size of a Cochin- China hen, is found in this district, the small repre- sentative of the extinct Moa (Dinornis elephantipes), a gigantic ostrich-like bird, whose bones are still found in caves and drift in this province, but rarely, owing to the careful searching of scientists during the last twenty years. It was from one imperfect bone of this bird that Professor Owen made his famous prognostication of the form, description, and habits of the Dinornis, which was so exactly verified. Local Climate of Auckland. While the general features of the climate of the city of Auckland and its suburbs correspond with those of the northern zone above described, there are some local peculiarities which must now be pointed out. In chapter iv. the situation of the city upon clay hills and scoriae slopes is portrayed in detail. The clay subsoil retains the moisture when the ground does not slope sharply, so that some inhabitants contract rheumatism, bronchitis, or sore throats, and towards the end of the summer typhoid fever. Ill-health arising from this cause is soon removed by sending the family to reside on the slopes of Mount Eden, Mount Hobson, Mount Albert, or Mount Victoria on the Devonport side (see illustration, frontispiece). To live, 24 NEW ZEALAND. however, on the slopes facing the north-east, close to the cemetery of Devonport, is unhealthy, though it would be safe to say, speaking in general terms, that despite a rather limited water supply Devonport offers a healthier site for a residence all the year round than Auckland city. The winter in the city of Auckland is extremely mild. A few miles out in the country there may be four to five degrees of frost, but none whatever in the city limits. The constant humidity tempers the heat of summer delightfully, but has an enervating effect upon highly nervous persons, who feel a restlessness possessing them. The peculiar " muggy weather " coming from the north-east, generally with warm showers of steamy rain, causes in such temperaments an irritability, combined with languor and debility, which is easier imagined than described. Fortu- nately this phase of weather is not of long duration (p. 18). This is about the only drawback to the climate of the city. To lounge on an elegant and spacious verandah on a holiday afternoon, and gaze upon an Italian bit of scenery with a silent Vesuvius in the background; to listen to the familiar song of the skylark, the twitter of the swallow, the chirp of the sparrow, the humming of the bee, while at your feet in the garden bloom roses, heliotropes, fuchsias, geraniums, bougain- villeas, and countless other flowers this is enjoyment I And these charms exist within the limits of the city. The summer temperature ranges from 66 to 90. But 80 is considered " very warm." In January, 1886, we had exceptionally hot weather, the thermometer in shade registering 72 as the lowest, and 80 as the highest temperature. But, with properly ventilated head- covering, and avoidance of needless exposure to the sun, no inconvenience need be suffered. Labourers here seem to work as hard as in England and sunstroke is very rare. Insomnia is experienced by some in Auckland during the summer, and for such, sleeping a few nights out in some country place, such as Waikomiti, Hen- derson, or Bombay, is the only cure. While there are TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 25 many spots near Auckland suited for a country hotel and sanatorium, no one has been found bold enough as yet to speculate in the matter. Howick offers an excellent situation for such a building, combining both country and marine views, a drying soil, and accessibility by road or water. While Auckland is a very appropriate place for invalids suffering from bronchitis of a recurrent nature, and from throat diseases, it is a singular fact that tenor and soprano voices soon lose their pitch and intonation if much used. Bass and alto voices stand very well. For genuine tubercular phthisis Auckland is seldom suitable, yet I know at least three definite cases of apparent " cure " by the change from England. In chapter xii. I shall further describe these cases. In each the real improvement had begun at sea, and the patients had carefully timed their voyage as to arrive in Auckland during the southern hemisphere's summer. A consumptive invalid should arrive not earlier in the year than October 15th or 20th, nor later in the year than March 31st. Some doubtful cases of pneumonic phthisis I have seen cured entirely. The invalid may reckon upon obtaining in Auckland and its suburbs any quality of accommodation he may choose to have ; an abundance of good food, facilities for riding, driving, &c. ; and plenty of kindly friends, who will do as much as they can for his comfort. There are a large number and variety of good boarding-houses in Auckland. Climate of TaranaJci. New Plymouth, 135 miles south of Onehunga, the port on the Manukau Harbour by which Auckland controls the traffic of the west coast, has a more bracing and healthier climate, but one which tries the poitrinaire too severely. South-west winds and storms prevail there. The sky is almost always clear, and the rain showers but brief. The snow-covered cone of Mount Egmont is the charm of the scenery. The mean annual temperature (fourteen years' observa- 26 NEW ZEALAND. tion) is 57'5 ; the difference between the coldest and warmest months being 5'66. The mean annual rainfall is 58 inches. Abundance of pure water is one of the comforts of the Taranaki district, derived from the streams that flow from Egmont into the sea. The dairy produce of the farms here is also a great element in the diet of invalids, being of such a high quality. The population of the district was, in 1886, 18,000, chiefly devoted to pastoral pursuits. New Plymouth, Hawera, and the other chief towns in Taranaki are now connected with Wellington by railway : by sea (twelve hours to Onehunga) frequent steamers connect it with Auckland. The ascent "of Mount Egmont takes two days, and is not attended with danger or any special difficulty, ladies often mounting to the top. Local Climate of Napier. Crossing now to the east coast (see map) we come to Napier, the capital of Hawke's Bay Province. It is a lively and rising seaport, with a population of 9000, built upon limestone hills and upon a long neck of land called tlie Spit. The subsoil of the hilly part being drier than that of the other towns in this Zone, the well water is somewhat hard ; but these peculiarities are rather beneficial than otherwise to consumptive invalids, for a winter residence. Much less rain falls here than at Auckland or Taranaki, the average for the whole year being 3 7 '2 6 inches. The mean annual temperature is 57 0> 56, the difference between the coldest and warmest months being 19 0> 26. Most English trees, birds, and fishes seem to acclimatize well in Hawke's Bay district. The grass is more succulent and the cereals yield more bushels to the acre than in other parts of the colony. Many asthmatic invalids do better at Napier than at Auckland. All the conveniences of advanced civiliza- tion are to be found in this thriving town. It was rather curious to find, as I once found, the very newest books from home in a bookseller's shop in Napier, when these books had not yet reached Auckland. THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 27 The port of Napier is being improved by a large breakwater designed by Sir John Coode, whereby the heavy swell from the sea will be prevented from entering the harbour. Gas and water works, public, primary, and secondary schools, a hospital, a club, hotels, banks, and the usual Government offices and numerous warehouses, give Napier the completeness of a small capital. Its importance is enhanced by the agricultural and pastoral shows held there every year. The best judges of sheep and horses I know in New Zealand live in Napier. The people are a hearty, friendly, hospitable set. Several interesting excursions can be made from Napier. For instance, along the railway line connect- ing it with Wellington, to Hastings, to Havelock, to Te Aute, where there is a theological training college for natives, and to Woodville, in the Seventy Mile Bush Or, in the opposite direction, to Lake Taupo ; to Gisborne, where the wealthy Maori may be seen to perfection ; or to the well-arranged mountain hotel at Kuripapanga, fifty miles inland, north-west, where the sub-Alpine climate of Zone No. 4 can be fully enjoyed without the booming of geysers, steamy mist from hot springs, or the odour of sulphuretted hydrogen. ZONE II. This climatic belt includes part of the North Island, Cook's Straits, and part of the Middle Island as far south as the Hurunui Kiver on the east, and Hokitika on the west. The general climate of this Zone resembles that of the south of England, but with keener winds, and a far more bracing atmosphere. Within its North Island division we find some lovely inland valleys, such as the famous Manawatu Gorge, and the valley of the Upper Wanganui Eiver. The beautiful and varied " King Country " comes within this Zone, but is not as yet conveniently accessible to the tourist. Palmerston North, at the western end of the Mana- watu Gorge, is as healthy, bracing, and yet equable a 28 NEW ZEALAND. place as I know. In the midst of summer the nights there are cool. This town has a strictly inland climate. It is furnished with a good water supply, very fair hotels, wide streets, good roads in all directions, and a lake for boating quite an unusual luxury for a New Zealand inland town. The view of the " monarch of the north," snow-clad Euapehu (8878 feet), from Palmerston in the early morning is a sight not soon to be forgotten. Wanganui, on the fine river of that name, is a healthy town having a mean annual temperature of 55, but is not very interesting to the traveller. At Woodville, only lately redeemed from the forest, the invalid can have the shelter afforded by the primaeval vegetation of the island. The winter there is mild, and the summer not too hot. But ennui will sooner or later drive him to a larger town, and he will probably make for Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. The Local Climate of Wellington. When the Home Government, in its wisdom, in 1865, moved the capital of the colony from Auckland, the Naples of New Zealand, to a settlement reputed to be the most breezy and earthquaky place in the colony, it is evident that climate did not enter into its consider- ation. What the Yankee said of England is applicable to Wellington : " I guess you have plenty of weather here, but no climate that I can see." Its central position in the colony, its good harbour, and its easy defensibility, constituted the reasons, as Sir Frederick Weld informed me, when I visited him in Hobart in 1879, for the choice. The annual rainfall at Welling- ton is nearly fifty-one inches, and the mean annual temperature 55i. The city is much more bracing than Auckland, Wanganui, or Napier, and about as bracing as New Plymouth ; but I have seldom met with any one who preferred to live in Wellington from unbiassed choice. Civil servants, insurance and bank clerks, steamship companies' officials, and retired ex-officials THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 29 constitute the bulk of the resident population, which in 1886 was 25,945. The harbour is a grand expanse of deep water surrounded by hills intersected with ravines, and singularly resembling the Sea of Galilee in size, shape, and liability to sudden storms. The wharves are well constructed, and accommodate the largest number of ocean steamers simultaneously of any port in New Zealand. But even the direct mail steamers are storm- bound sometimes in the harbour. In the city, much of which has been reclaimed from the sea, the museum, the post-office, Government House, and other buildings, including what is supposed to be the largest wooden building in the world, are worthy of the colony. Cabs and tram-cars run at cheaper fares than in the other large towns. The North Island railways will in time all centre in Wellington. The great geological convulsion that formed Cook's Straits, dividing New Zealand into two islands, permanently altered the climates of both the adjacent extremities of the North and Middle Islands, by the in-draught of the west and south-west winds through the straits, and their collision with the east and north-east winds at the eastern outlet. The influx of the sea also has its effect. It will thus be understood that while Wellington has no terrors for vigorous healthy men, it is scarcely a desirable place for pul- monary invalids. Local Climates of Nelson and Picton. Nelson, at the head of Tasman Bay, on the north coast of the Middle Island, distant 106 miles from Wellington, is called " the garden of New Zealand " for all the fruits of the temperate and sub-tropical regions grow there in luxuriance. Large quantities of preserved fruit and jam of excellent quality are made there. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the scenery of Nelson is very grand. To invalids suffering from slow chronic consumption, chronic bronchitis, rheumatism, and from senile decay, Nelson offers a delicious and restful climate. If the summer is found inconveniently 30 NEW ZEALAND. warm, a visitor may resort to Top House on the moun- tains, 3000 feet above the sea. Nelson possesses the very best educational advantages, a comfortable club, cultured society, and an excellent local scientific association. The mean annual temperature of Nelson is 54- 86 ; the difference between the coldest and warmest months being 17. The average rainfall for the year is 61 inches. Hops are extensively cultivated at Nelson, and both coal-mines and gold-mines are worked in the district. During 1887 the value of the gold exported from Nelson was 13,711. Its population in 1886 was 7315. While the climate of Nelson is tranquillizing to nervous invalids, it has been found by experience too sedative to women who are at all subject to menor- rhagia, and who are burdened with the cares of a rapidly increasing family. Children born in Nelson during the summer are never robust. The winter, however, is more bracing than that of Auckland or Napier. Picton is a small town of about 800 inhabitants, at the head of a beautiful arm of the sea, called Queen Charlotte Sound. The short distance, forty miles (fifteen miles across Cook's Strait and twenty-five miles of smooth water up the Sound), between Wellington and Picton enables the Wellingtonians to use Picton as a summer resort. For boating, yachting, and fishing, Queen Charlotte Sound is unsurpassed in New Zealand. The flavour of the Picton herring is, in my opinion, equal to that of the Yarmouth 'bloater.' When I visited the place in 1886, lodgings were cheap ; the simplicity of the Pictonians, who flocked down in crowds to see the Moraroa, the largest Union steamer that had ever ventured up to their little wharf; and the exquisite situation of the sleepy-looking town, all indicated that Picton was not appreciated as it might be by the New Zealanders in general, or by that time it would have become a Llandudno or Scarborough on a small scale. But its time will come. From Nelson to Picton we steam through the " French Pass," a romantic channel, formed between the mainland and D'Urville Island, at TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 31 one place only 117 yards broad, the tide running with tremendous force through it, between steep cliffs 500 feet high. Picton is the port of Blenheim, the capital of the provincial district of Marlborough, and is con- nected with it by railway. The mean annual tempera- ture of this district (five years' observation) is 53'4, the highest mean being 64 0< 3, and the lowest 42 0- 8. The average rainfall is nearly the same as that of Nelson. The country is mountainous, and covered with thick forests, chiefly of various kinds of pine and birch, of which a large quantity is' annually exported. In Blenheim, I noticed a prosperity and complete absence of poverty, and a general contentment with each one's lot not too common in New Zealand at that time of depression, the summer of 1886. The summer is dis- tinctly hotter in Blenheim than in Picton. It is not easy to find temporary accommodation there, except at the hotels, for every householder owns and occupies his own house. There are not the same social advantages as at Nelson, but as Picton is drier and colder than the latter city, it suits some cases of asthma better, and of hypenesthetic nerve-irritability. Delicate strumous children thrive well here, being able to take plenty of open air exercise in boating, fishing, climbing the hills, riding ponies, and walking. When Picton and Blen- heim are connected by rail with the Canterbury system, and with Nelson, I venture to predict that it will become the favourite sea-side resort of the Middle Island. Neither Sumner (Christchurch) nor Ocean Beach (Dunedin) have such attractions. ZONE III. Extending from the Hurunui Eiver and Hokitika, S. lat. 42 50' to the south of the South or Stewart's Island, S. lat. 47 20'. The general features of this climate have been sketched out on pp. 16/17, and 19, but the peculiar local climates of Christchurch, Dunedin, Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu and Invercargill require individual description. 32 NEW ZEALAND. Local Climate of Christchurch. " The Cathedral City," as it is called, is the most handsomely laid out of the four chief cities of New Zealand. Its Cathedral (Anglican) is at present the only one in the colony. In churches, schools, colleges, museum, and handsome private residences, it is the most English-looking city in New Zealand. Its popu- lation (32,000) includes the largest number of wealthy citizens and of cultured people of any of the four cities. But its climate is not conducive to the health of sickly people or of young children, from its extreme varia- tions in the same week, or even in the same day. It is the only New Zealand city where a hot wind blows occasionally in the summer. This wind is from the west, and, though cool at its origin, becomes heated up by the hot, dry, fertile, wheat-growing Canterbury Plains about 100 miles before it reaches the city. It is at this season, (December to February) that cases of sunstroke occur. The pallor, languor, and frequent illnesses among children in Christchurch in summer impress the stranger unfavourably. In winter, again, the prevalent winds, west and south-west, are very cold, blowing as they do across the Southern Alps, and thence over the Canterbury Plains at that season bearing frost on their surface. The greatest heat of summer (derived from the mean average of twelve years' observation) is 88, and the greatest cold of winter is 25. Yet the mean annual temperature is only 52 "88. At the change of season, corresponding to our spring and autumn, Christchurch weather is delightful. At all times a run down to the port, namely, Lyttelton, from which a range of hills, pierced by a tunnel 2838 yards long, is a cooling change. So also is a stay at Sumner, the sea bathing- place of Christchurch. The healthy person who dislikes long, cold, and damp winter will live more comfortably in Christchurch than in Dunedin ; and a few cases of pure asthma do better in Christchurch TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 33 than elsewhere. But invalids with weak chests, or those whose liver and kidneys are affected, should not go there to reside. When debilitated by Christchurch summer weather, a visitor should go west to Bealey, on the Southern Alps, 2104 feet above sea level, a station on the coach road from the east to the west coasts. Here, amid glaciers and snow peaks as grand as that of Switzerland, he can become braced up thoroughly. Good fishing and shooting may be had. Bealey is the coldest of all the Government weather-stations. The minimum temperature for the year is 12, the maximum is 78, and the annual mean average is 46 '7. The average rainfall here is 105 inches. Crossing the well-made road, past terrific precipices, crossing roaring torrents, and skirting fields of snow the grandest drive in New Zealand from Bealey to Hokitika, we find ourselves in the wettest town in New Zealand, 112 inches being the average annual rainfall. The district called West-land is sparsely populated by an orderly people, although mining for gold and for coal are the chief industries. Forests are plentiful. The prevailing wind is westerly. The mean annual temperature is 52 34 ; the difference between the coldest and warmest months being 14 76. Westland cannot be recommended for invalids. Mount Cook, or Aarangi, the monarch of New Zealand, 12,349 feet high, first ascended by the Rev. W. S. Green in 1883, is in this district. The Midland Railway Company of New Zealand is now engaged in connecting Springfield and Hokitika by rail. Akaroa is a pleasant little town on a beautiful harbour situated on Bank's Peninsula, forty-four miles south-east from Lyttelton, famous for its fruits. It has a milder climate than Christchurch, and romantic scenery. Neither Tiinaru (pop. estimated at 5000), 100 miles south of Christchurch, nor Oamaru, seventy-eight miles north of Dunedin, both important seaports, need be described in a chapter devoted to climatic considera- tions. Healthy persons, able to withstand much stormy weather, can enjoy life there thoroughly. D 34 NEW ZEALAND. Local Climate of Dunedin. Dunedin, named after Edinburgh, is its representative in climate also. Built on steep hills surrounding a bay open at both ends to the north-east and south-west winds, it requires great care to select a lodging for an invalid winch shall be sufficiently sheltered. The result of seventeen years' observations at Dunedin, 550 feet above the sea, gives the mean temperature of the whole year as 50*72; the maximum is 84 '74, and the minimum 29 84. The average temperature for winter is 43^ ; for summer 57 ; for spring 50^ ; and for autumn 51 '8. In my own experience I found the change from Auckland, with its 85 to 90 in the shade in the summer, to Dunedin, where my thermometer stood at 47 every night, very delightful. An invalid with chronic liver trouble, or liable to congestive head attacks, would do well to spend the summer in Dunedin. It is a handsome city, with 45,000 in- habitants, and furnished with all the educational, ecclesiastical, social, and commercial facilities that one can possibly desire. The scenery around Dunedin is as beautiful as that of Auckland, but of a different character. Majestic, stern, bare, cloud-capped moun- tains, intersected by boulder- strewn valleys, rise all around. The drives round the peninsula to Larnach's Castle, across the bay from Dunedin, and to Blueskin (visitors miss the scenery by rail) are simply mag- nificent. And the walk up the Water of Leith Valley to the Eeservoir is the prettiest I have ever seen in the suburbs of a large town. In the architecture of its churches, banks, city hall, and monuments, and in the possession of the Grand Hotel, Dunedin excels its three rivals. The severe climate stimulates the faculties of business men, and their bustling ways are a contrast to the languor of Auckland and the gentle- manly deliberation of Christchurch. There is a real winter here, of uncertain duration, July being perhaps TEE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 35 the most severe month of the year, when sleet, snow, and hail descend with a charming variety ! The youngsters of Dunedin, Queenstown, and Invercargill can sometimes enjoy the luxury of snow-balling fights. But for invalids Dunedin is to be avoided in winter and spring. Among the residents cases of phthisis pulmon- alis, pneumonia, pleurisy, bronchitis, and other lung diseases, along with quinsy, diphtheria, and catarrhal sore throats, are common. Statistics show, however, that Dunedin is a healthy city compared with any large city or town in England, and that its birth-rate is high. The children one sees are rosy, plump, and hardy. Two lines of cable tramcars render access to the upper parts of the city easy, and the Town Belt, a park extending round Upper Dunedin in a semicircle, affords a pleasant walk at any time of the year. After seeing the rain come down in summer one finds it difficult to believe that the average annual rainfall is only 32 inches ; but this is the official record. It is the only New Zealand city where I found it necessary to carry an umbrella every day in the summer. The Dunedin Club, occuyping Fernhill House is an excel- lent one. On inquiry I found the prices of hosiery, drapery, &c., to be as low as in England, and I am inclined to think that living there is rather cheaper, though house-rent is dearer than in Auckland. Local Climate of Queenstown. The Alpine resort in summer of the Middle Island families and of those tourists who " do " the Southern Lakes is Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu, about 200 miles west from Dunedin by the rail, which takes a circuitous route. From three years' observation taken at this weather station, 1070 feet above sea level, we find that the mean annual temperature is 51; the difference between the coldest and the warmest months is 21 ; the maximum being 84, and the minimum. 23. D 2 36 NEW ZEALAND. The scenery is perfectly glorious. At the back of Queenstown is Ben Lomond, which a lady can ascend easily. Opposite the town are the ' Eemarkables,' a serrated range of mountains 3000 feet high, where the lights of sunset and sunrise are transcendently lovely. The lake (pronounced " Waw-Jca-tip," the final "u" being silent) is 70 miles long, 112 square miles in area, and bounded on the north by the grandest double- peaked mountain in the Middle Island, Mount Earns- law. At its foot nestle the hamlets of Kinloch and Glenorchy, where perfect quiet, primitive but whole- some fare, and boating, fishing, riding ad libitum can be enjoyed if the visitor tires of the bustle of Queens- town. "No lake in Europe can at all equal Lake "Wakatipu except Lucerne," says the Hon. J. C. Rich- mond, an experienced traveller and clever amateur artist. At this elevation many asthmatic sufferers enjoy peaceful nights. Invalids suffering from eczema, which is worse near the sea, from bronchitis coupled with asthma, from glandular swellings and from gout, will recover health at Queenstown, if the brief summer allows them to stay long enough. In six weeks my delicate wife and little son regained perfect health by a sojourn at Kinloch. Visitors must provide against the cold of the evenings and during the nights. Those coming from the North Island, Australia, the Cape, India, or the Pacific Islands, will find this whole district cold, even though the sun's direct rays are hot. The last night I was at Queenstown there was an earthquake shock, which was distinctly perceptible, but did no damage. I could not help comparing it in this peculiarity with Crieff in Scotland, close to Loch Earn, where shocks occasionally occur. Local Climate of Invercargill. Invercargill is the capital of the province of South- land, 139 miles south of Dunedin, and seventeen from the Bluff Harbour, the southernmost post of call for all THE CLIMATES OF NEW ZEALAND. 37 steamers approaching New Zealand from the south. It has now over 10,000 inhabitants, and is an important pastofal centre. Invercargill is laid out on the American rectangular plan, with wide streets, handsome shops, tramcars, and lofty public buildings. The climate of the town, like that of Wellington, principally consists of "changes of weather." Along its wide streets the icy breezes, fresh from the Antarctic Pole, blow, accord- ing to the season, dust, sand, sleet, rain, or snow. A greater contrast to Auckland could not possibly be imagined. A bank clerk who was suddenly moved by the head office from Auckland to Invercargill had his memory so benumbed by cold that he forgot his over- due little bills ! Thunderstorms are more common in Southland than elsewhere in the colony, being as 29 '5 to 18 in Auckland and Mangonui ; 16 in Taranaki ; 14 in Hokitika; 7 in Dunedin ; and 3*in Christchurch. The average annual temperature of Invercargill is 50, the maximum temperature in summer being 83, and the minimum of winter 20. The average annual rain- fall is 43 '67 inches. It is a pity that this winter temperature is not low enough to freeze the rabbits which constitute the great pest of Southland, destroying the pasturage, and thus starving out the sheep. While it is only a Scotchman who can live comfortably in Southland, I must acknowledge that the children I met in the streets of Invercargill are rosy-cheeked, healthy, and active. ZONE IV. forms an irregular ovoid figure on the map, having Lake Taupo (1250 feet above the sea) as its centre. Upon this sub- Alpine plateau, the lowest part of which is 1000 feet above sea level, we have a dry, pumiceous, and scoria soil and a capital mountain air, which is particularly suited for asthmatic and emphysematous sufferers, and for those whose shaken nervous system requires a light stimulating atmosphere and cool nights. The average winter temperature on this plateau does 38 NEW ZEALAND. not exceed 50 during the day, and 30 to 32 during the night. The light dry soil soaks up rain quickly, and on sunny days (the usual, not as in England, the unusual thing) reflects the sun's rays so strongly as to thoroughly dessicate the air near to the surface of the ground. At the sulphur baths (to be described in chapter v.), which abound in this region, the rapid cures of rheumatism and of skin diseases are accelerated by these characteristics. But the storniiness of the weather at all seasons makes it dangerous for consump- tive patients to visit or stay at Eotorua or Taupo. Ordinary tourists will, however, much enjoy the scenery, and find it not only comfortable but pleasant to travel through this Zone between December 1st and the end of February. Tourists who are not taking the thermal treatment, will find the location of this sanatorium at Kotorua (Ohinemutu) and the hotel at " Joshua's," Taupo, too near the hot steaming pools and too highly flavoured with sulphuretted hydrogen fumes to be enjoyable. The convenience of the invalids has rightly been studied first before all. Means of easy communication between Taupo and the wild and romantic " King Country " are still wanting, but the North Island Trunk Eailway will effect this in due time, and then the grand tour sketched out on p. 135 may be made. For details of the climate and prevalent weather at Rotorua, I refer to chapters v. and vi. CHAPTEE III. THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. The name, origin, and appearance of the Maori Tattooing Lan- guage, with specimens Rhyme for pronunciation Grammar History of Old New Zealand Causes of their decline Customs of tapu, muru, utu explained. Korero, haka, tangi, mana ex- plained Bishop Selwyn's defence of Maori character Generous deeds Old Mohi Conversions Future of the race. ALTHOUGH this little book does not aim at including the history and ethnology of New Zealand, yet a few pages may be wisely devoted to the subject of the aborigines, seeing that the race is slowly but surely passing away, and that the Maori has proved himself to be the bravest and most intelligent of all the Pacific Islanders hitherto encountered by English soldiers. The " Maori," from a word meaning " native " or "indigenous," seems to belong to the brown-skinned, that is, to the lighter- coloured races of Polynesia. Many books have been written and essays contributed to the Transactions of the New Zealand Institute upon the " Whence of the Maoris," and so little is known of their remote origin that various savants have held that they came (1) from Central America ; (2) from Peru ; (3) from Hawaii or Samoa ; (4) from Sabea in the south of Arabia ; while (5) a learned Hebrew believes them to be descendants of the Gibeonites who were made slaves by Joshua (see Joshua ix.) as a punishment for their deception of him, and who eventually were driven out of the Holy Land at the dispersion of Judah. He bases this strange theory on some undeniably Semitic 40 NEW ZEALAND. customs and observances among the Maoris. For instance, the consecration ceremony at puberty, the mourning ceremonial, and the close resemblance of the tapu custom in relation to the dead to that of the law of uncleanness as delivered through Moses. It is remarkable that the Maoris neither manufacture a native intoxicant like kava, nor any cloth resembling tapa, both productions being universal among their reputed ancestors of the South Pacific. Whatever may be the correct theory, it is generally admitted that the present Maori race came to New Zealand about the year 1100 A.D. in canoes, the names of the largest of which are still borne by the various tribes, or hapus, such as the Arawa, Waikato, Nga- puhi, &c. It is clear also that they found in these islands an aboriginal of a Papuan type, of whom they made slaves, as we see by some of their ancient carved temples, whare-kura, and as we trace here and there among themselves by observing men of short stature, darker complexion, brachycephalic skull, full lips, and curly and coarse but not woolly hair. The pure Maori may be thus sketched. The men are tall, muscular, and well formed, the feet and hands being well proportioned, though the legs are shorter than in the average European. Their average height is 5 feet 6 inches. The shades of colour of their brown skin vary from a tint fairer than that of the Basque or South Italian to that of a modified Papuan. The hair is usually black, but sometimes dark brown. As a rule, there is little or no beard. The features of the chiefs are regular and symmetrical, the nose being large and often aquiline, in spite of the detestable custom of flattening the Maori babies' noses in infancy ; the mouth is large, and the lips not as full as in the negro ; the eyes are dark, vivacious, and expressive ; the teeth are white and regular, lasting to old age. The face is greatly under self-command ; for the Maori, while keenly observant, and possessing a most tenacious memory, can effectually conceal his thoughts and feelings. Yet his THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 41 fount of tears is always ready ; he can weep at a moment's notice. " A Maori may be in a violent rage/' says the Eev. J. Buller, " or bitterly weeping, or as sulky (pouri) as a mule from the same identical cause." The women are handsome, powerful, and muscular, with large, dark, lustrous eyes, and long hair of a less coarse fibre than that of the men. But they reach maturity early in life, and from very heavy work become pre- maturely aged and ugly, while the tattooing of the lips in blue is to our notions a deformity in every woman of whatever age. In connection with the custom of tattoo which when on the face is called moko, on the body whakaairo every adult Maori who could afford the high fee exacted by the professional tattoo artist, and every adult woman had a right to it, contrary to what visitors are generally told, namely, that these marks are distinctive of the chief or his family (Buller). The language of the Maoris is a dialect nearest akin to the Earotongan, Hawaiian, and Samoan. So close a family likeness exists between Maori, Samoan, and Hawaiian that a Maori can follow the debates in the House of Eepresentatives in Honolulu without the aid of an interpreter, while a kanaka or Samoan who happens to be cast ashore in New Zealand can make himself understood by the Maoris. One fundamental resemblance in these four Polynesian dialects consists in their being composed of monosyllabic root-words, by the duplication and combination of which new words more complex in their meaning are made. This feature also proves that these languages belong to the primaeval ages of human speech. Their lingual affinities are also very marked. For example, the Maori and Hawaiian dialects substitute the aspirated " h " for the sibilant " s " and " sh " existing in Samoan. I never heard a Maori pronounce our sibilants, and I was informed by Judge Maning that only one tribe could be taught to utter it. " You give me one herring," said a Maori to me at the Hot Lakes. For a time I was nonplussed, but a colonial bystander interpreted it to me, " You 42 NEW ZEALAND. give me one shilling," the " 1 " being also lacking in Maori. In the Hawaiian and Samoan dialects the " 1 " and " k " take the place of " r " and " t " in the Maori respectively. . As in all the Christian islands of the Pacific, the missionaries have reduced the native language to writing for the purpose of translating the Holy Scrip- tures. The first part of this task was not difficult for the ordinary purposes of intercourse, because of the simplicity of the structure of the language and the uni- formity of the vowel pronunciation ; but owing to the non-existence of words conveying abstract ideas the work of translation was very hard. The Maori alphabet consists of five vowels : a, e, i, o, u ; nine consonants : h, k, m, n, p, r, t, w, and ng ; and five diphthongs : ae, ai, ao, au, ou, all of which are pronounced as in Italian. The palatal sound " ng " is very soft, the " g " being inaudible at the beginning of a word such as nga-rua-wahia, the two rivers, pronounced " Nah-ruah-wahya," whereas in Onehunga the " g " is distinct, though not nearly as hard as in the English word " hunger." Each consonant must be followed by a vowel, and every word in Maori ends in a vowel, though elision is practised in rapid utterance, for the English visitor hears'Lake Wakatipu called " Wakatip," &c. The following jeu d? esprit in rhyme gives a fair idea of the sound of the native names of seven places in the colony, I underline the seven Maori words : " Ohau shall I cross this swift river, Ohau? Waikanae not swim to the shore ? Otaki a boat now and merrily row In the Manawatu did before. Orowa-way gently, for you must beware Of the Horowhenua afloat. Waikawa-rdly stand I and shiver on shore Till the ferryman brings me the boat V " It is to the credit of the colonial governments of New Zealand that they have officially perpetuated the Maori names of both mountains, lakes, rivers, valleys, bays, and settlements in the colony, for they are most THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 43 appropriate, sometimes poetical and connoting an interesting legend ; always mellifluous ; and the Maori language will one day be extinct. But at the same time it must be admitted that some names are untrans- latable so as to be in accordance with decency. A few of the more common words I will now translate as a help to those who study the map of our colony for the first time. The Maori language is copious, consisting of at least six thousand words. They gave descriptive names to everything visible in earth, sky, or sea, and they have no less than twelve names for different shades of colour. Observe that in Maori the adjective follows the noun. 1. The chief numerals are : tahi, 1 ; rua, 2 ; torn, 3 ; wlia, 4 ; rima, 5 ; ono, 6 ; whitu, 7 ; warn, 8 ; iwa, 9.,; tekau, 10. 2. Perhaps the commonest root-word at the beginning of a name is wai, which means " water." We thus have : wai-wera, hot spring ; wai-kato, high river ; wai-heke, flowing water ; wai-makiriri, cold river ; wai-roa, tall water (a waterfall) ; wai-uku, clay water, &c. 3. Other common words are roto, lake ; motu, island ; wliare, hut or house ; whanga, harbour ; pah or pa, fort ; puke, hill ; kai, food ; rangi, sky, heaven ; wako, canoe ; mana, power ; maunga, hilL 4. Among the adjectives useful to know are pai, good ; kino, bad ; mate, dead ; pouri, sad or sulky ; poto, short ; roa, tall or long ; tapu, sacred ; nui, great. In conversation ae (sounded like the Scottish " aye ") means " yes ; " kahore, " no." The ordinary salutation is " Tena ra ko koe ? " literally " Hold ; there you are ! " usually shortened into " Tena koe ? " which is colloquially equivalent to our " How do you do ? " and the correct reply is, " Tena koutou," " How are we both ? " The colonists do not trouble to learn Maori, except the commonest words and phrases, for he who would converse fluently with the natives must live among them and study the manner, inflection of voice, the gestures, emphasis, and pronunciation of their best 44 NEW ZEALAND. speakers (and they have many very good orators) because the same word may have its meaning altered by all or any of these arts of oratory. A monthly newspaper in Maori, called the "Kori- mako " (the name of the Bell bird of New Zealand, now nearly extinct), was established and endowed by a philo-Maori American gentleman, the late W. P. Snow, of Massachusetts, for distribution among the reading natives. It has proved of good service in the Gospel and temperance work among them, and also as a means of diffusing information about Europe and America. From it I extract the first verse of the translation of Sankey's well-known hymn : HOLD THE FORT. " E te iwi ! haere ake Ki te nui mau Haere ake ki te ora I te ara hou, Puritia mai te Taonga Kia piki ai Whaia ko te ture tika Whaia ko te pwi." These lines pronounced as I have indicated on p. 42 will be found quite euphonious and well adapted to the original stirring music. The Maori children have thin voices, but not unpleasing, and they sing in admirable time. When we come to the substantives and verbs, we find that Maori possesses not only a singular and plural number but also a dual. There are also two pronouns denoting the first person plural, " we," namely, matou, meaning " we " excluding the person spoken to, and tatou " we " including the person addressed. But I must not pursue the subject further, lest I should discourage any readers who may emigrate to New Zealand from learning the native " lingo." The first missionaries sent out to convert the Maoris had, as I have stated, much difficulty in translating the Bible for the want of abstract terms in the Maori. But after years of self-devotion, prayerful study, reflection, TEE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 45 and judicious collaboration the task was completed about the year 1845, the Old Testament having been translated by my friend Dr. Maunsell, Archdeacon of Auckland, who still lives, honoured by all who know him, and the New Testament by Bishop Williams, who has gone to his rest. The first Maori convert, named Eangi, was baptized September 14, 1825, after ten years' missionary work. The Maoris eagerly learnt to read, and showed great shrewdness in questioning their teachers on Biblical subjects. And now the whole nation are actually or nominally Christian. A lady could now traverse even the wild " King country " in personal safety. In this day of severe criticism of missions and missionaries my readers should notice this fact in connection with what I shall describe later on. In conveying to the native mind European ideas, several words have been introduced by the missionaries from the English into the Maori, by splitting up as it were our numerous double consonants, e.g. newspaper be- comes nupepa ; book, puka-puka ; England, Ingaranga ; Auckland, Akarana; Graham, Kerehama ; John, Hone ; William, Wiremu ; Featherston, Petatone, &c. When the first white men settled in New Zealand, the aboriginal Maori was a brave but cruel and blood- thirsty athletic savage, reckless of human life, selfish to the backbone, revengeful, treacherous according to our ideas, yet in time of peace courteous and hospitable to the white man pakeha, "foreigner," he was called. Mr. E. E. Maning, who wrote two graphic and witty books, entitled "Old New Zealand" and "The War in the North," under the nom de plume of " Pakeha- Maori," describes the country when he landed as a Pandemonium, from the constant and furious wars of extermination waged by the various tribes (kapus) upon each other. There was, he states, ample evidence to show that, centuries before, the native population had been much more numerous than it was found to be when he first settled there. The diseases induced by famine and malaria, besides the slaughter in the wars, had caused a rapid decrease in the numbers of the 46 NEW ZEALAND. natives. A continuous state of warfare had become so much the natural condition of life with the Maori that all Ms customs, sentiments, and maxims had been formed accordingly. Nothing was so esteemed as courage and strength, and to acquire property by war and plunder was more honourable and more desirable than by honest labour. To kill the wounded and captive and to eat your dead enemy was noble and glorious. You assimilated by cannibalism all the courage and strength as well as the atua, or soul, of the man you devoured, besides striking terror into all his tribe. The knowledge of this horrible custom was the chief cause of the panic that sometimes seized our own soldiers in the Maori wars. Our wounded men have been known to implore their comrades to kill them rather than let them fall into the hands of the cannibal Maoris. No aboriginal nation, except perhaps the Zulus, has been more difficult to conquer than the Maoris ; and at last they obtained an honourable peace from our commanders. The bravery, the skill in fortification, in attack and defence, and the knowledge of strategy of the Maori have extorted admiration from all military men who have served in New Zealand. For some years after the settlements grew in the colony, the intertribal wars became still more sanguinary because of the use of firearms. But the spread of Christianity, the practice of trade and barter, and the influence of the pakeha checked the depopulation by gradually substituting the peaceful arts of agriculture and the manufacture of articles from the native flax shrub (Phormium tenax) for bloody and fruitless war. The low morality of the Maori in his heathen state conduced to the decrease of the race. His ideas and expressions were full of obscenity in ordinary conver- sation. Polygamy, infanticide, the abandonment of the sick, infirm, and aged ; the suicide of widows, the slaughter of all a chief's slaves at his death, and the ruthless retaliation of murder upon the innocent were universally practised in Maoridom. Latterly, from the adoption of European clothes and blankets, from THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 47 intoxicating drinks, from contagious diseases introduced by the white man, and from the swampy, unhealthy places often selected by the native for his hut, called wharc (built of raupo, a kind of rush, and the leaves of the nikau, or cabbage palm) their numbers have been declining. But since the New Zealand Government have provided free education, free medical advice, and medicines, and in some cases free quarters and rations, and since intermarriage with the pakeha has become common, the annual decrease has been but small. In analysing the census returns of 1886, and comparing them with those of 1881, the Kegistrar-general of New Zealand comes to the following conclusions concerning the vitality of the Maori race : 1. That there is a much smaller birth-rate among the Maoris than among the rest of the population. 2. That there is a higher death-rate at all the younger ages of life. 3. That there is, in addition, a much higher death- rate among the adult Maori females than among the adult males. I shall allude to the diseases prevalent among the Maoris in chapter xii. There are, it is estimated, though not with exactness, about 40,000 natives in the North and about 2000 in the Middle and South Islands ; just about the number of Lapps remaining in Scandinavia. Thousands of these are Christians, many quite consistent in their behaviour, and hundreds own horses, oxen, waggons, geese, fowls, and bees. In 1881 the Maoris owned besides horses no less than 112,850 sheep, 42,103 cattle, and 92,091 pigs. What with pigs ad libitum, potatoes, kumara, taro, peach and apple trees, and fish everywhere in plenty, it is his own fault if the Maori starves. Each adult Maori has a vote for one of the four native members of the House of Eepresentatives, according to his district. There are also two Maoris in the Legis- lative Council. There is a native department, with a Cabinet minister at its head, and a Native Lands Court system specially devoted to Maori interests. More 48 NEW ZEALAND. than 2600 Dative children attend the 79 free schools, where, I am glad to state, the English language alone is now taught. Some natives, notably those of Hawke's Bay and Poverty Bay, have become quite wealthy from the sale or lease of their lands to settlers. The ancient customs of the Maori are, as might be expected, fall- ing into disuse from the spread of civilization and Christianity, and from the death of the old warriors (ariki) and the tohungas, or priest-magicians, whose arts failed them against the superior knowledge, weapons, and apparatus of the pakeha. The last of these tohungas, old Tuhoto, said to be a centenarian, perished from the effects of the Tarawera volcanic eruption in 1886. The present generation of adults have less of the brutality and ignorance of their ancestors, but have acquired some of the white man's vices drunkenness, lying, extortion, thieving, and bullying. However, there are many exceptions, as I shall presently note. For an exact and profound study of the Polynesian customs of tapu, mum, utu, and others, I would refer readers to Dr. Fornander's book, and to Dr. E. K. Tylor's " Manual of Anthropology ; " but a brief description of these, of the past meaning of the word "mana" and of the ceremonies called karero, tangi, and haka, must be permitted. 1st. The custom of making anything tapu, or sacred, or unclean, still survives in some of the remote villages or kaingas. But whereas in ancient times there were many kinds and degrees of tapu, everything worn or used by a chief being tapu, for instance, everything worn or used by a stranger who was tapu by the chief also, the place of a birth, death, or burial being ditto ; and the tohunga being able to tapu any land, hut, person, or thing, and likewise by a certain karakia (incantation) to release it from tapu, the breach of any of these being punishable by death. Nowadays even the burying- place, the wahi-tapu, is barely respected by the quarter- civilized Maori, and not at all by the colonist. 2nd. By muru was meant an organised and legal confiscation of goods inflicted upon one who killed THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 49 another by accident, or stole any property belonging to another. This muru generally included personal chastisement of the offender, who however was allowed to protect himself. The pillaging party was called a taua-muru, or ' battalion for punishment.' Such was the perverted moral sense of the Maori that if a child in a family got burned or drowned the rest of the hapu would come and inflict muru upon the parents ! 3rd. The utu or satisfaction for murder (lex talionis), theft, or any other crime, identical with the Mosaic " eye for an eye," " tooth for a tooth," &c., law, a law common to all primitive nations, was rigorously carried out among the Maoris. Most of the massacres of the boats' crews on the coast of New Zealand in early days, and those that take place now in some of the uncivilised islands of the Pacific, have been enforcements of utu, or blood for blood. For, as the islanders make no distinction between Europeans, the crimes of the French, German, or Dutch sailors are visited upon the more humane Englishman. The Maoris always regarded it as just and right to kill any members of the hapu or clan to which the slayer of their own clansman belonged. Nor had they any sacred fane, or city of refuge, as in Israel, where the manslayer could find asylum. Many years elapsed before they could understand or would submit to the English law on the subject of murder. So great has been the consideration shown by the successive colonial governments for this custom of utu that if a Maori murdered a settler for utu and then escaped to his hapu, the authorities used merely to demand that he should be given up to justice, and if the hapu refused, took no steps to enforce the law. Thus was the law of England defied ; but this is not now the case. The Government of New Zealand would have gone to great lengths then rather than provoke a Maori rebellion. But indeed there is not much fear of that now, ever since the plucky arrest of Te Whiti, the false prophet of the Maoris, at Parihaka, by the Hon. John Bryce in 1881, and the impressive effect on the native mind of King Tawhiao's E 50 NEW ZEALAND. visit in 1884 to England. Those natives who directly trade with the settlers, and have tasted the luxuries of civilization in the form of money, tobacco, liquors, furniture, clothes, silk dresses, watches, jewellery, &c., have more common sense than to provoke a rupture which would deprive them of these tilings for a time. By a wise provision of the law, it is a punishable offence for a white man to sell liquor, arms, or ammunition to a Maori. Though frequently evaded, this law has done much to put down intertribal massacres and murderous quarrels, the result of drunken sprees. For it must be borne in mind that the Maori drinks liquor in order to 'get drunk, and knows no such thing as moderate drinking. The natives are now amenable to New Zealand law, exactly the same as the whites. There is very little crime among the Maoris, and what there is decreases year by year. 4th. The korero, or tribal assembly for the public discussion of war, peace, or other matters, was always held in the whare-puni, or council-room, the largest building in the Jcainga, adorned usually with elaborate carvings, and painted. The head of each family squatted on the ground in a circle round the chief of highest rank among them. There was no want of ready speakers. One generally finds this to be the case in aboriginals of comparatively high cranial development who are not possessed of a written language. This circumstance so trains the memory that the old chiefs and priests could not only recite to the visitor all the old legends many of them weird and poetic, some grotesque and indecent but could reckon up at least twenty-seven generations back with perfect correctness. Furthermore, every white man was known by a certain native nick-name, derived from some personal peculiarity, and by this name was known throughout the Maori nation. Nor did any Maori forget a face he had once seen. The meetings I have witnessed between Judge Maning and Maori friends who had not seen him for twenty, thirty, or even forty years were quite affecting so fond were thev all of him and were interesting corroborations TEE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 51 of the possession of this gift of quick and tenacious observation and memory. To return to the korero, however, one orator after another would spring to their feet and with mere, a sharp-edged club of greenstone (very valuable), or spear in hand, and mat or cloak waving from the shoulder, would move up and down with stately step, which would quicken to a run when the speaker became excited. His length of walk (or run) being timed exactly to the length and point of the sentences gave a rhythmical cadence which almost converted the speech into an operatic recitative. Graceful action, impassioned appeal, the chanting of a song of love, war, or death, the apt quotation of proverbs, legends, and epigrams, and the clever choice of natural similitudes all this evinced oratorical power of a high order. At the end of the korero the tribal policy resolved upon was announced by the chief, and a feast terminated the proceedings. For the preservation of the best Maori legends and poetry, Sir George Grey, who has had such a marked success in his diplomacy with the natives, has done more than any other living man. For the story of the good " Maui," who is fabled to have brought up New Zealand from the depths of the ocean hence its name " Te Ika o Maui," " the fish of Maui ; " for the pretty story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai and other legends, readers are referred to the collection made by Sir George Grey, to Domett's " Eanolf and Amohia," and to works by J. White, T. W. Gudgeon, E. Tregear, and others. 5th. The celebrated haka, or national dance, similar to the hula-hula of the Hawaiians, seems to have gone out of fashion, and the tame and "got up" imitations of it by travelling Maori troupes, or by native loafers to amuse visitors at the Hot Lakes are not like what the old settlers saw. It was a dance of an indecorous nature, accompanied by the chanting of amorous songs, and was usually performed by the women only. As I have never had the opportunity of seeing one, I cannot describe it, and it is the unanimous wish of the philo- Maori that it should be allowed to disappear. E 2 52 NEW ZEALAND. 6th. The tangi, or weeping, meant originally the ceremonial mourning for the death of a chief or great man, but the weeping was also practised on the occasion of meeting a long-absent relative or friend. The entire tangi ceremony, of which I was fortunate enough to be a spectator at Ohinemutu, in December, 1880, in company with Judge Maning, Mr. S. Jackson, sen., and Mr. B. Proude, is an interesting relic of the elaborate and demonstrative mournings for the dead common to most primitive nations, of which we read in Genesis 1., Numbers xx., Samuel xxxi., Zechariah xii., and other parts of the Old Testament. I will briefly describe what we saw at Ohinemutu. The chief who had died was of high rank, and the visitors were expected to consider it an honour to be invited to this tangi. The leader of our party of four, Judge F. E. Maning, being a great favourite with the Maoris, was specially urged to attend, and was good enough to translate to us much of what was " said or sung," Many natives walking in to Te Ngae, the name of the mission station where the tangi was being held, were overtaken by our carriage, and everyone greeted the worthy judge with enthusiasm. Most had come long distances to do honour to the deceased. The body of the dead chief had been laid on a bier, wrapped in flax mats, but leaving the head exposed, which was decorated with feathers; the sons and nearest relatives of the deceased were seated on the ground near the corpse. As each visitor arrived he or she went straight up to the body, and was greeted by each relative by the hongi, or rubbing of noses, the Maori substitute for kissing, followed by each em- bracing the other and weeping upon the neck, in true Eastern fashion. Eound the inner circle of relatives were the professional mourners, women who continued all day a wailing chant without words, like the " keen- ing" at an Irish wake. Some of these women also kept up another ancient custom, that of cutting their faces, arms, and breasts with pieces of obsidian and THE MAORIS AND THElfi CUSTOMS. 53 sharp-edged shells, making the blood flow mildly, however, not as profusely as described so graphically in " Old New Zealand " by my departed friend, Judge Maning, who remarked the contrast of the old-time tangi and the modern affair. Each native visitor joined in the wailing for a few minutes and then mixed in the crowd that sat around. Some of the women kept lifting their hands to heaven, quivering in that strange way one sees Maoris do when under real or assumed excitement. All this went on until sundown, when the funeral feast was spread, the pakehas being cordially invited. Huge piles of pork, cooked in the Maori ovens, of potatoes, sweet potatoes, bread, and koura (a very palatable fresh- water crayfish), were vigorously attacked by the company. The only incongruous and injurious element in the repast was the whisky passed round by a white man, who wished to ingratiate himself with the natives, and perhaps once again become Minister of the Native Department. I was glad to see many Maoris refuse it, being total abstainers. Up to the time (9 P.M.) our party left there was no intoxication. In old times the corpse of the cliief was wrapped in his best garment and buried in the ground in a sitting posture, his face turned towards the north, where is Te Eeinga, the Maori Hades (somewhere about Cape Maria van Diemen); or placed in a tree in the darkest recesses of an adjacent forest. Then, after about two years, the body was exhumed, the bones were scraped clean, painted red, and, with another tangi, placed either (1) in a small house resting on a pole, or (2) on the top of a sacred (tapu) tree, or (3) in a cave difficult of access. Nowadays Christian burial is the rule, and the bone-scraping with its attendant and subsequent ceremonies is a thing of the past. 7th. The word " vnana" so freely used in Maori traditions, and in all literature descriptive of the Maoris, deserves a passing explanation. Its meaning, according to the way in which it is used by the speaker, comprises prestige, power, influence, and a certain 54 NEW ZEALAND. magical property which we call "luck," the Germans " gliick," the Eomans " virtus." There was the mana of a tohunga, or priest, which was proved by the truth of his predictions. Some of these gentry were skilled in ventriloquism (vide " Old New Zealand"), which gave them great mana. The success of a chief or warrior gave him mana, which he might lose by subsequent defeat. A spear, club, or mere may have a mana which by tradition had become regarded, like King Arthur's sword Excalibur, as some- thing supernatural. Among the leading men of the colony who have had the greatest mana with the Maoris have been the first Bishop Selwyn, Sir George Grey, Dr. Featherston, and Eobert Graham, Esq. Some colonists have complained that while the Maori has a sense, though limited, of justice and of honesty, he has no gratitude, and is selfish and covetous. To this charge a noble answer was made by the great Bishop Selwyn, the founder of the Church of England in New Zealand. " When I hear of the covetousness and ingratitude and selfishness of the Maoris," said he, " I have only to look into the faces of Henry and Lot [his two native lay helpers], the most helpful, the least self-seeking, and the best tempered of all com- panions, and forget all the accusations brought against their race by Englishmen who see their own failings reflected in the native mirror, without recognizing them as their own. The charges of ingratitude made against the natives are generally made by those who have given them the least reason to be grateful. For myself I must say that I have met with so much disinterested kindness from the Maoris that I should be as un- grateful as they are supposed to be if I did not acknowledge my obligations." I can corroborate from personal experience the testimony of this great and good man. Even though the Maori language does not contain words directly meaning gratitude, hope, faith, and other abstract ideas, yet the Maori can express these sentiments in his simple and terse way. We must not THE MAORIS AND THEIR CUSTOMS. 55 take our ideas of the typical Maori, as so many transient visitors do, from the loafing, shilling-hunting, grog-drinking Maori of the Eotorua and Taupo districts a man who has lost all the virtues of the savage and gained the vices of the European. Should we, as Englishmen, like to be judged as a race from many of our fellow-countrymen who haunt our show places and attend our horse-races ? The history of the colony shows the Maori in a far from unfavourable light on the whole. Even during their wars of independence the natives showed generosity to their foes. At Kororareka they captured Lieutenant Philpotts, a son of the celebrated Bishop of Exeter, and in admiration of his bravery not only released him, but returned him his pistols and sword. In the war of 1863, the hostile chief, hearing that General Cameron's forces were short of provisions, sent down the river Waikato canoes carrying a large supply of food for our soldiers. A chief's daughter, baptized as Julia, and her husband saved the entire crew of the ship Delaware, which was wrecked on the coast at Wakapuaka, near Nelson (Middle Island), by bravely swimming out in the breakers with a rope to a rock from which they threw it on board the ship. Space fails to mention many other pleasing facts of a like kind. An eminent young Baptist Christian, Graham Tawhai, whose early death, a few years since, was widely deplored, showed what a grand character natural talent, deep conscientiousness, early conversion to the faith, and a good education could evolve from a pure-blooded Maori, the descendant of thirty generations of cannibal ancestors. An in- teresting little book, entitled " Our Maoris," by Lady Martin, narrates many touching incidents of genuine conversions to Christianity and of adherence to the faith, in the face of ridicule (to which all Maoris are keenly susceptible), boycotting, persecutions, and war. Old " Mohi," as he is called, Moses being his baptismal name, one of the converts mentioned in this book, is personally known to me. For more than thirty years he has been an honest and faithful servant, first to 56 NEW ZEALAND. the Hon. William Swainson until his death, and latterly to Sir George Grey, and a consistent Christian. He speaks very little English, but travellers would, by the aid of an interpreter, find a talk with him very interesting, as he is one of the few remaining living links with the past ages of Maori heathendom. No Polynesian race has shown a greater aptitude for civilization than the Maori. The wonderful vigour and tenacity of life of the Maori race induce me. to believe that in time they will blend into the mixed nation called " young New Zealand," just as the Celts have blended into our Anglo- Saxon-Danish-No rman nation, and that the ranks of this young nation will furnish to the world orators, politicians, poets, merchants, and warriors equal in bravery, ability, and energy to any of those born of a purely white race. CHAPTER IV. AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. Its position Geographical and commercial importance The Corinth of the South The third city in Australasia by popula- tion Sheltered harbour Graving docks Picturesque approach to the city Public buildings Grey collection of MSS. City government Newspapers Ueve'opments of Art, Music, Science and Literature Queen Street shopping Telephones Halls and theatres Y. M. C. A. building Ostrich farming Acclimatized farmers Wonderful growth of the city during past nine years. As the limited space of this volume will not permit a detailed description of all the four chief cities of the colony, I have selected the place of my residence for nine years, many features of which find their counter- parts in the other New Zealand towns. The city of Auckland, situated in south latitude 36 50', and east longitude 174 50', is the metropolis of the Auckland Provincial District, the climatic cha- racters of which have been described in chapter ii. This district extends from the North Cape southwards to Gisborne, and thence westwards along the 39th parallel of latitude to the Tuhua and Mokau rivers, and contains an area of seventeen million acres, or about one-fourth of the whole area of the colony. The population of this area has increased from 85,773 in 1878 to 135,627 in the year 1887. In the latter year there were 4286 births (including one case of triplets and 47 twin births), 833 marriages the largest number in any province during 1887 and 1501 deaths. The population of the City of Auckland has increased even more rapidly than that of the district. For by the last official census. (1886), if we place Auckland in the 58 NEW ZEALAND. same plane with the cities of Wellington, Christchurch, and Dunedin, by including her suburbs, " we are struck by the fact," says the Evening Star, " that her popula- tion amounts to 62,000, thus placing her in the position of the premier city of New Zealand, and the third city in Australasia." That is to say, Auckland comes after Sydney and before Adelaide in population. The order of the New Zealand chief cities then, according to the EveniTig Star, is Auckland .... 62,000 Dunedin .... 46,205 Christchurch .... 39,000 Wellington .... 27,000 A glance at our map of New Zealand will show that Auckland, situated on the inlet of the Hauraki Gulf, called Waitemata, is the northernmost, and therefore nearest to Australia (Sydney), to the Pacific Islands, and to America, of the four provincial capitals. This geographical advantage makes it the Liverpool of the colony, for it will become the great distributing port when once the North Island Trunk railway connects it with Wellington ; and this advantage will be enhanced by the opening of the Panama Canal at some not too distant day, let us hope. The opening of the Canal would bring Auckland within twenty-eight days of Liverpool. It has been called the " Corinth of the South," because of its site on an isthmus between the east and west coast. By Onehunga, distant only six miles by rail, on the Manukau harbour, it commands the traffic to New Plymouth, Wellington, and Nelson southwards, and that to the Kaipara district northwards (see map No. 1). Froude so aptly terms it the Naples of Maoriland, and the " City of Delightful Views," that I have borrowed part of his first epithet for my chapter heading. No- where in the whole of New Zealand is the dolce far niente so alluring as in Auckland, where the lazzaroni are faintly represented by the Maoris, and Vesuvius by Eangitoto or Mount Eden both, however, dead apo- logues of their living prototype. There is not in the AUCKLAND, TEE NAPLES Of NEW ZEALAND. 59 Southern Hemisphere a more extensive or lovely scene than the panorama of Auckland, its suburbs, its harbour, its islands, the coasts on both sides of the North Island, and the hill ranges on the south viewed on a clear sunny day from the summit of Mount Eden. Nor is there a more enjoyable drive anywhere in the colony than from Queen Street to St. John's College through Remuera, and back by Ellerslie and the Great South Road. The founding of the settlement of Auckland took place in 1840, when Queen Street was a marshy valley, down which a sluggish stream found its way to the sea. It became the seat of government on the 19th of Sep- tember, 1840, and retained that proud position until the Imperial authorities moved the capital to Wellington, as being more central, in 1865, during the premiership of my friend, Sir Frederick Aloysius Weld, K.C.M.G. The blow to Auckland was great for a time, but it rapidly emerged into prosperity again, the Thames goldfields bringing in population, capital and machinery. The clay hills abutting on the harbour were cut down, scarped, and terraced for residences. Queen Street developed into the main business artery of the city, and streets were cut out of the hills, at right angles to it, up to the foot of Upper Queen Street, where several side streets debouch in a fan-shape at the present day. The rapid growth of the population may be judged of when I state that in the period between the two last censuses those of 1881 and 1886 Auckland increased by 62 per cent., while in the ten years between 1871 and 1881 Melbourne had only increased by 37 per cent., and Sydney by 64 per cent. Our photograph in the frontispiece is the only one obtainable on a small scale, showing the prettiest part of the view looking north- east from Mount Eden, the houses in the foreground being those in Symonds Street and Grafton Road. Besides the numerous islands (Great and Little Barrier, Tiri-tiri, Waiheke, Motutapu, Motuihi) that shelter the Waitemata harbour we have, in this view, the extinct crater island of Rangitoto (1), built up by 60 NEW ZEALAND. Nature from the bottom of the sea, whose summit is 902 feet above high-water mark, and the long, narrow peninsula called the North Shore, with its two extinct craters of the North Head (2) and Mount Victoria (3), 344 feet in height, which guard still more surely the tranquillity of the waters from the storms which rage outside. The breadth of the harbour, at its entrance, opposite the North Head (2) is two miles. The borough of Devonport (4) is about three miles from Queen Street Wharf. In the illustration, the small portion of the adjacent eastern suburb of Parnell (8) is visible, also Mechanics' Bay (7), the Supreme Court (6), where the assizes are held ; the Government House (5), where the Governor lives when he visits Auckland, and a glimpse of the Albert Park (10) of fifteen acres, beautifully laid out, where a band plays in summer, and whence charm- ing views are obtained of the harbour and islands. To the right of the foreground of our photograph, but only marked by the tops of two trees is the Domain, a lovely but " unkempt " park of 196 acres in area, dividing Auckland from the borough of Parnell, and containing the finest cricket ground in the colony, so large that fifteen matches have been played simultaneously upon it. Besides hundreds of acclimatized trees and shrubs from every part of the world, the Domain displays the native flora of this part of New Zealand. Otherwise the visitor will not find the native shrubs growing any- where until he reaches Eemuera, where there is a patch of the Manuka bush, the Ti-tree (Leptospermum ericoides). The Kauri is not to be found nearer than Waikomiti, eleven miles to the north-west. Queen Street lies to the left of our picture, outside its limits. The boast of Auckland being its facilities and advantages as a port, let us state a few facts which amply justify this. Queen Street terminates at its harbour end in a fine wharf 1680 feet long, having a depth of 24 feet at low spring tides. Thus any of the largest steamers (5000 tons) that visit Auckland can lie, load, and unload at the city, instead of being eight miles away at a separate seaport, as in the case of AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 61 Christclmrch (Lyttelton) and Dunedin (Port Chalmers). There are two other wharves, the railway wharf, 1000 feet long, and Hobson Street wharf, 500 feet. The old graving dock is near the latter. The new graving dock, called " Calliope Dock," after having been opened by the ironclad of that name in 1887, is the largest south of the line, being 550 feet long, 83 feet wide, and 33 feet deep on the sill. It cost the Auckland Harbour Board 150,000, and has greatly enhanced the value of the port as a place for the repair of the large vessels of her Majesty's navy and of large steamers. The " fairway " of the channel is so capa- cious that even at low water several large steamers, ships, and war ships can ride together at anchor without fear of colliding or of grounding. Sir W. F. D. Jervois, the late Governor, whose departure is still regretted, stated in his " Eeport on the Defences of New Zealand " that there is no harbour in Australasia more suitable for naval defence. In accordance, therefore, with his advice powerful batteries have been erected on Stark's Point, North Head, and Mount Victoria (North Shore), and at Parnell, on Point Ptesolution. " It is worthy of note," says Brett's Almanac, " that for the last fifty years not a single shipping accident of any great importance has occurred in this harbour." The port of Auckland is the last place of departure and the first of arrival of the American steamers which at present carry the monthly mail between New South Wales, New Zealand, and the United States, delivering them in eighteen to twenty days from Auckland to San Francisco, whence they are forwarded across to New York, reaching London generally in thirty-four or thirty-five days from New Zealand. The Direct Mail steamers of both lines visit Auckland as cargo requires ; the Colonial Line run regu- larly ; the Union Steamship Company of New Zealand have much traffic there ; the Northern Steamship Com- pany have their headquarters there ; and, besides large ocean ships, there is a very large fleet of smaller ships trading to the Pacific Islands. During the year 1887 there entered the port 4085 vessels, of the aggregate 62 NEW ZEALAND. tonnage of 355,608 tons; and 3850 vessels of 393,342 tons total cleared the port. The crews of inward and outward vessels numbered no less than 56,067 men. In tonnage Auckland exceeds that of any other New Zealand port. Let us now imagine ourselves entering the harbour from the ocean. Having passed the island of Tiri-tiri, marked by its lighthouse, we obtain, as we coast along the north or ocean side of the North Shore peninsula, our first glimpse of the picturesque city across the low- lying land near Lake Takapuna. It reminds some travellers of the first distant sight of Constantinople and the Golden Horn, and gives the impression of a greater area than the city covers in reality. Two groups of hills with a valley between them are covered with houses, churches, public buildings, and gardens, as far as the eye can reach. In a few minutes we lose sight of Auckland, and do not regain it till we pass round the North Head on our right hand, leaving the curious round island-volcano, Rangitoto (the meaning of which is " bloody sky ") on our left. We pass another island, Waiheke, away upon our left, before turning round the Head. The Bean Rock lighthouse now guides us to the channel. On the left we now have the wealthiest and most highly ornate suburb of Auckland, called Remuera (pronounced " Rem-u-air-a "), where the hospitable commercial magnates mostly live. Steaming further on, Parnell, with some lovely residences and gardens sloping to the water's edge, is passed on the left, Devonport and the big dock on the right, and then Auckland, " the Queen City of the Pacific," as my friend Mr. Consul Griffin enthusiastically styles her, is reached. The existence of the batteries, torpedoes, and submarine mines, which defend the harbour, is so care- fully concealed, that an air of perfect peacefulness and security pervades the scene. On the Devonport side the broken-up irregular outline of the rocky beach, resem- bling that of Biarritz, and the luxuriant verdure of the hills and trees, serve to heighten the picturesqueness of the brightly painted and verandah-shaded houses. On the city side the handsome Hospital, standing on an AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 63 eminence in its own capacious reserve, the church of the Holy Sepulchre, the red-and-white Supreme Court, and Government House arrest attention. Auckland, we see, is built on groups of clay and scoria hills, inter- sected by valleys all trending to the sea, and is backed up by volcanic peaks, like Honolulu, one of which, Mount Eden, is 644 feet high, and is now utilized as a reservoir. A lively district must this have been in ancient times, for Dr. Hochstetter counted no less than sixty-three distinct craters within a ten-mile radius ! However, no fear is felt now of any revival of volcanic action, especially since the outburst of Tarawera, chronicled in chapter vii., has relieved the pent-up forces in that district, 120 miles distant. Looking up Queen Street, the main thoroughfare, we notice the Baptist Tabernacle, built for the son of Mr. C. H. Spurgeon, which holds the largest congregation in the city. Farther up the harbour, on the Auckland side, the charming residences and gardens of Ponsonby extend along the cliffs. A singular-looking island, called the Watchman, stands in mid-channel, while to the right, on high ground, stand the North Shore suburbs, North- cote, Birkenhead, and Chelsea. If we wish, we can steam fifteen miles farther up the Waitemata, meeting delightful views at every turn. The abundant sun- shine, illuminating an atmosphere absolutely free from smoke and fog, reflected from the sparkling blue waters of the harbour, and from the gaily painted houses, the numbers of pleasure-boats darting here and there, and the absence of all appearance of squalor and poverty all combine to make one love Auckland at first sight. Though not yet quite half a century old, Auckland is very well provided by the Government, by the city coun- cil, and by the munificence of its citizens, with public buildings. Sir George Grey, J. T. Mackelvie, Edward Costley, Dr. Campbell, and others, have literally bestowed the accumulations of their lifetimes in art, literature, science, and money upon their fellow-towns- men. The special pride of the educated Aucklanders is the Free Library and Art Gallery recently built in 64 NEW ZEALAND. Wellesley Street East, at the cost of 40,000, by the city, because it is enriched by the noble gift of Sir George Grey's priceless collection of old MSS., rare books, autographs, antiquities, and ethnological curio- sities. Sir George Grey presented it to the city in 1887 as a free gift for ever. Having inspected these treasures myself at his beautiful home in the Kawau Island, seven years before the generous donor presented them to Auckland (where he now resides), I may be permitted to make an extract from my note on that occasion. " Some of the gems of the collection are the following: The MS. of the Four Gospels, tenth century, with a picture of St. Matthew ; the MS. from which the first Bible was printed by Gutenberg in 1450 ; a copy of the first Dutch Bible, and of the first book printed at Delft in 1477 ; a Missal ad mum (2 vols.) written on vellum, fifteenth century, in Gothic hand, with music of the chants and sixty- three miniatures, each six inches square ; a Petrarch on vellum, with miniature portraits of the finest kind ; a rare copy of the first Malagasy Bible ; a New Testament in the aboriginal language, now extinct, of New South Wales, and a dictionary of another extinct language, the Cree Indian ; the original MS. of the secret treaty Cromwell made with the Low Countries ; the signatures of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI. ; autograph letters of Cromwell, Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, Livingstone, Moifat, Florence Nightingale, Carlyle, Thiers, and of many other famous men and women." If even the services rendered to New Zealand by her most distinguished statesman are in time forgotten, the Grey Library, unless destroyed by fire (which Heaven forefend !), will immortalize his name and fame. The various philanthropic and religious institutions aided or constructed out of the magnificent legacy of nearly 100,000 left by Edward Costley, an Irish mechanic who amassed money in the early days of Auckland, and lived so frugally as to be called a miser, are seven in number The Sailors' Eest and Home, the Kohimarama Training School, the Costley Indus- AUCKLAND, TEE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 65 trial Home, the Parnell Orphan Asylum, the District Hospital, the Old People's Eefuge, and the Free Library. The Sailors' Home, including the Sailors' Eest, founded by Bishop Cowie in 1881 " for the physical, moral, and spiritual benefit of the seafaring community," was built out of the Costley legacy of 12,150, and opened in 1887. An excellent site was given gratis by the Harbour Board, near the graving-dock at the foot of Albert Street. The cost, including furniture, was 4500, and an endowment income of 500 a year was still left. The building is a credit to the city, and harmonises well with the adjacent handsome Harbour Board offices. The Home accommodates fifty inmates, and is largely used by sailors, especially when ships of her Majesty's navy are in port. The mission work among sailors, oyster-men, fisher-boys, and longshore- men, in which ladies take a part, goes on earnestly and successfully. In no other New Zealand seaport is so much done as in Auckland to give them a hearty wel- come and to keep them out of temptation and danger. The Costley Industrial Home, under the wise man- agement of Colonel Haultain and Captain Daldy, gives free board and education to poor boys of good character until they are of an age to be apprenticed to trades. After that it still supports them until they are able to earn their living. The endowment income from the Costley legacy accruing to the Free Library is set apart for the annual purchase of books. The other insti- tutions enriched by Costley need no special description, except that of all the blessings showered upon his tomb none can be more fervent than that of the poor old men and women of the Eefuges who are about to change their damp and unhealthy abode for a spacious and salubrious country residence. The large and imposing building of the Young Men's Christian Association in Wellesley Street West is the centre of much aggressive Christian work. I believe the building cost 7500. The Eev. J. S^ Hill was when I left its energetic president. On the top floor of this building is to be found the best-equipped F 66 NEW ZEALAND. gymnasium in the colony. The lecture-room will seat 700, and has the best acoustic properties of any room I ever spoke in. Under the auspices of the Young Men's Christian Association, Major Dane, Joseph Cook, the Earl of Aberdeen, and other distinguished visitors have addressed large audiences in the City Hall, which is the transformed Theatre Royal of old. In 1888 the aged but vigorous Pastor George Muller addressed crowded audiences here for several weeks. In 1887 the Countess of Aberdeen delivered an address to above 500 ladies of Auckland, including the large Young Women's Christian Association, which for love, pathos, and wisdom was almost the best I ever read. Should these pages ever meet the eye of the gracious lady who thus cheered the hearts of the toilers of her own sex in that distant city, let me assure her that there were hundreds who benefitted by its perusal in the papers who could not even get near the door of the building. The Auckland Savings Bank is a handsome building in Queen Street, built out of the profits of the first twenty years of its existence. The architecture of the other banks is not equal to that of similar buildings in Christchurch or Dunedin. The Post and Telegraph Office in Shortland Street is scarcely large enough for the rapidly increasing mail business of the city. The Choral Hall in Symonds Street seats 900 persons, and is owned by the Choral Society, who enjoy the distinction of being the only society of the kind in Australasia who own their hall. The orchestra and chorus number about 150, and at least five subscription concerts of high-class music, conducted by Herr Schmitt, are given every season. Distinguished visitors are sometimes honoured by a special concert, and leave Auckland highly pleased with the excellence of the performances. The latest development, I learn by the newspapers, is a Ladies' Orchestra. It is in contemplation to build a town hall and also a Mackelvie Art Gallery. I have 110 space to mention all the other public buildings. Auckland is governed by a mayor, elected annually by the whole body of ratepayers, as in the United AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 67 States, and by eighteen councillors, two for each of the nine wards into which the city is divided. The municipal debt is 424,000 ; the rateable value of real estate in 1887 was 367,822 ; and the rates amounted to two shillings in the pound. The endowments of the city from leaseholds amount to 10,000 per annum. A recent loan, negotiated in London, realized the highest price ever obtained for a colonial security in the London market. The city is fairly well drained and lighted ; has an excellent water supply ; fresh and salt water baths ; is well paved ; and well supplied with trams, omnibuses, and cabs. The electric lighting of a part of the city and of the wharves is being arranged for. The telephone system is a great success in Auckland, there being over 500 subscribers already to the Exchange. Telephones are a Government monopoly, but are very moderate in cost, namely, 10 for the first year and 8 a year afterwards; consequently doctors and chemists invariably use them, and business men have their residences and offices connected by telephone. The newspapers of Auckland are well conducted and widely read. The New Zealand Herald is the only daily morning paper (2c?.), and the Auckland Evening Star (Id.) is now the only evening paper; its certified circulation is 11,500 daily. By means of cablegrams and enterprising English and American correspondents the Auckland public are kept well informed of what is passing in the world. The great questions of policy, imperial or colonial, are often ably treated in the leading articles. I have often been thankful that there is no Whig or Tory in New Zealand, for there is no " Government by party ; " nor is there that acerbity in the discussion of burning questions in the newspapers of New Zealand that one finds at home. The two parties in New Zealand consist of the " Ins " and the " Outs," and it is curious to see the same newspaper advocating the " Ins " at one time and the " Outs " at another. In Art, Music, Science, and Literature Auckland is quite in the front rank of New Zealand cities. The F 2 68 NEW ZEALAND. annual Art Exhibition held by the Society of Arts is a most successful one, and elicits from visitors a large mead of praise. In chapter xi. I shall allude more particularly to the development of Art in Auckland. In Music, Auckland may, without conceit, claim to be the premier city in New Zealand, for it has now a Chair of Music in its University College, the first occupant of which, Professor Carl von Schmitt, Knight of two foreign orders, is a distinguished musician and most enthusiastic in his work. It is his intention to establish a Conservatoire of Music in Auckland which shall give a complete musical education to the student. His numerous compositions are of high merit, and should be known in England as well as in Germany. Except in that country there is no town of the size of Auckland that has so many students of promising talent in all branches of music. The genial climate, the colouring of the sky and sea, the surrounding scenery, and perhaps a certain dreamy languor belonging to the air creates artistic longings which find their expression in poetry, music, or painting. Science is represented by the Auckland branch of the New Zealand Institute, by the small but well- arranged Museum, and by the Science Department of the University College. The membership of the Auck- land Scientific Institute is about 300, and its meetings are held in the winter in the lecture-room of the Museum, to the painstaking, learned, and courteous Director of which, Mr. Cheeseman, I must here express my obligations for much kind assistance in scientific matters. A Field Naturalists' club and a Microscopical club have arisen from among the members of the Institute. In literature the Athenaeum Society takes the lead and is doing good work. Its meetings are held in the winter in the Arcade building, and the subjects dis- cussed range over a wide area. There are numerous literary societies in connection with the various denomi- nations, and frequent popular scientific and literary lectures are delivered in the rainy season. AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 69 There is only one theatre at present in Auckland, Abbott's Opera House, in which operas, dramas, and other entertainments are given with very little inter- mission all the year round. The city is well off for amusements both outdoor and indoor. The grounds of Government House are open for lawn tennis, and there are several other clubs for that amusement (see chapter xi.). Cycling, rinking, bowling, yachting, canoeing, boating and fishing are the chief outdoor amusements. No maritime city is better off for excursions by sea than Auckland. The delightful health resort called Waiwera, twenty-six miles north-east of Auckland, the Kawau Island (until lately Sir George Grey's home) Motutapu, where red deer may be shot by invited guests, Coro- mandel, the Thames, and other places within easy reach are greatly resorted to on holidays. Three miles out from the city, southwards, are the Athletic Clubs' Recreation Grounds, where the international, inter- colonial, and other football matches are contested, always attended by thousands of spectators, Apropos of matches, hundreds of boys manage some- how by acrobatic feats on trees and posts to get a free sight of some of these, to the disgust of the managers of the Athletic Eecreation Grounds. But an incident which was an exception to the proverbial love of Auck- landers for a "free show" is narrated of the visit of " Professor " Baldwin, the aeronaut and parachutist, who performed his ascent and descent in Auckland in the summer of 1889. Thousands of sightseers assembled on Mounts Eden and Hobson, where they had an excellent view of the performance without payment. But during the following week, Baldwin's agent was inundated with letters containing stamps for the amount of the gate-money a circumstance which deserves chronicling, as being honourable to Auckland citizens. It has become the usual thing for the mayor to order a public half-holiday when a football or cricket match comes off. A new attraction has been lately added to Auck- 70 NEW ZEALAND. land, in the shape of an ostrich farm. At "Welford Park, about twenty-two miles ride from the city, Mr. Laurence Nathan has started this affair at a great expense, which I hope he will recoup. It is one of the most interesting sights in the world to see the young ostriches, hatched by an incubator, issue from the egg as large as Cochin China fowls, and immediately start devouring voraciously the chopped lucerne which is provided for them. Each male bird has two hen birds in his enclosure and has to be approached with great caution. I am reminded of an amusing exercise a Balclutha schoolboy wrote upon the ostrich, while object lessons on cork and on water were floating in his mind. " Dear Sir, I take up my pen to let you know what I know about an ostrich. An ostrich is the biggest bird in the world. It is opaque and boyant, and lives in the desert of araba and africa, it is of the camel class because it has a long neck. An ostrich has three feathers, which the Prince of Wales says is ' I serve.' It has three states sold liquid and gas. They have two toes on each foot. An ostrich lays ten eggs at a time, and the mail bird helps the hot sand to catch them. They are very fast runners and they would never manage to catch them if the horses did not run very fast in a zig-zag style like a Z. It pays well if you can catch a good lot of birds, and the Hawklanders are trying to rear ostriches in that province, because they can't grow oats there, and the Maories eat their sheep." Sunday is decorously observed, now that Sunday closure of the hotels, except to bona-fide travellers, is strictly enforced by the licensing committees. Not being a total abstainer I am the more free to say that a great change for the better in the state of the streets at night and on Sundays has resulted from the week-day closing at 10 P.M. and the Sunday closing. Taking the colony as a whole, the cause of teetotalism is gaining ground. This is largely owing to the eloquence, energy, and organising power of my friend Sir William Fox, K.C.M.G., who is president of the United Kingdom Alliance for New Zealand. Auckland is the centre of the educational system of the Province, comprising free Primary Schools, at which AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 71 21,000 children were attending in 1887, secondary schools, the High Schools, Auckland College and Grammar School, and others, and the Auckland Uni- versity College, founded in 1883, which has proved very successful. An account of these institutions is reserved for the section Education in chapter ix. The city of Auckland is well provided with table luxuries at moderate prices. Not only are there thirty- three kinds of edible native fishes in the sea, the prin- cipal of which in the North are schnapper, kahawai, mullet, flounder, garfish, and cod; also small oysters of delicious flavour, crabs, lobsters, and crayfish, but California salmon comes in, preserved in ice, by the mail steamers ; turbot and sole from England, and turtle from the South Pacific. The Acclimatization Society of Auckland has done noble work in importing game and song-birds, but all its preserving efforts to naturalise the trout and salmon- trout in the province have failed. The warmth of the climate, the absence of both ground-food and flies similar to those of Britain, and the voracity of the eels and crayfish (Koura), which devour the young fry, are thought to be the causes of this failure. In the Wellington district, along the Wairarapa valley, how- ever, I understand that the trout are thriving. The license fees exacted by the Government for the privi- lege of shooting during the " open season " are wisely transferred to the exchequer of these Societies of which there is one in each Province who are thus enabled (being also assisted by subscriptions) to carry on their good work. In the country districts, hares, pheasants, the partridge, quail, snipe, plover, teal, and red grouse afford excellent sport, a fact which should be noted by my sporting readers. Whitebait is found in profusion in the Waikato river. In the lakes, rivers, and streams of the Middle Island acclimatization has been so successful that the angler can now catch trout of 15 or 20 Ibs., and salmon of 30 Ibs. weight in the Lakes of Otago, while perch, tench and carp, are also thriving in suitable places. When first colonized the 72 NEW ZEALAND. lakes and rivers of New Zealand only produced eels, crayfish, and a few salmonoid fishes of little value. Unfortunately for the country, however, the sparrows, blackbirds, (Australian) minahs, rats, and rabbits have acclimatized only too well ! Stoats and weasels are now being imported to keep down the rabbits, but it is feared that the former will vary their rabbits' blood diet with the vital fluid of fowls and ducks. Much more in fact, an interesting little book might be written about Auckland, but I must refrain. Enough has been described to convey to the English reader the great vigour, activity, resources, and advanced position of this flourishing city. I will conclude by simply enumerating some of the improvements and additions to the city made since the beginning of 1880, and included within the nine years of my residence. In some of these I was privileged to take a share.: The harbour greatly improved by the lengthening of Queen's Wharf ; the construction of two new wharves ; the im- portation of a powerful steam dredge, and the addition of several new " tees ; " a complete system of harbour defences constructed ; a submarine cable laid to Tiri-tiri ; the immense Calliope Dock opened ; the New Zealand Sugar Company's great refinery, wharf, and workmen's village built at Chelsea ; near the water-front the Sailors' Home, Harbour Offices, Palmerston Buildings, railway station, and Firth's Eight Hours' Mill, lit up by electricity; in the city the Free Library and Art Gallery, Abbott's Opera House; Young Men's Christian Association Building, Baptist Tabernacle, St. Sepulchre's and St. Benedict's churches, eight large hotels, the Victoria Arcade, Australian Mutual Provident Building ; New Savings Bank Building ; Turkish baths, Auckland College and Grammar School, Boys' Training Home ; new wing to Lunatic Asylum, two new reservoirs, Star printing-offices, many large warehouses, shops, and private residences. Tram-cars have been introduced ; the side walks have been asphalted under the reign of Mayor Waddel, and the following societies and clubs established : the Benevolent Society, AUCKLAND, THE NAPLES OF NEW ZEALAND. 73 Christian Evidence Society, Sailors' Eest, Boys' Eest, Athenaeum, Field Naturalists' Club, Sketching Club, Amateur Photographic Club, Amateur Opera Club, and others. " If a more general knowledge," says Mr. Consul Griffin, of the United States, " prevailed abroad in re- gard to the genial climate of Auckland, I am sure that a large migration hitherward would be the result ; and I have not the slightest hesitation in saying that, as a site for extensive commerce, she stands the Peerless Queen of the Pacific." 74 NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER V. THE MINEKAL SPKINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. New Zealand first, Continent second, California third as to import- ance of their mineral springs Seventy-three already analyzed Arranged in five classes Three well-established spas : Waiwera, Te Aroha, Rotorua The new town of Eotorua Arrangements for visitors Mineral springs and baths described Priest's Bath Madame Rachel Blue Bath Pain-killer Lake House baths Oil bath Wonders of Tikitere Te Kute Hot waterfall Diseases successfully treated by these baths Leprosy probably curable by them The season for Rotorua Advice to invalids " Business first, pleasure afterwards " Diet, &c. No inhabited country in the world possesses mineral waters in greater number, variety, and medicinal value than New Zealand. Writing with a pretty extensive experience of such springs in three quarters of the globe, I am of opinion that New Zealand ranks first as regards these advantages ; next in value comes the central part of the continent of Europe ; and thirdly, California. In some places in New Zealand thermal springs are the sole remains of past subterranean energy, while in others, as at White Island (Bay of Plenty), they exist side by side with tremendously active volcanic forces. With a few exceptions, the hot springs are confined to those districts of the North Island where volcanic forces have been active during the latest Tertiary period ; but some are found to issue from the Upper Mesozoic rocks in localities such as the East Cape, where the source of heat can only be attributed to the chemical decomposition of bitumen and bituminous shales, and of sulphides. Three warm springs (90 to 104) have been found also in Pakeozoic rock formation in the Middle Island. During the last few years travellers and invalids from different parts of the world have been attracted to THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 75 these springs in increasing numbers, so that recently the New Zealand Government have officially recognized their benefit to the colony by establishing in the centre of the Hot Lake district a sanitorium with a competent medical officer at the head of it. Eotorua having been thus favoured, Te Aroha is claiming a similar recogni- tion, and will no doubt soon obtain it. This chapter is the first attempt yet made by a medical man to group together all the well-proved mineral springs of New Zealand, and to contrast or compare them with those of Europe, in such a way as to inform the general reader, without confusing him by chemical technicalities, and the medical reader without useless vagueness of statement as to their nature and value. As no less than seventy-three of these springs have been already analyzed, it is important that English medical men who recommend invalids to go to New Zealand should have some definite information of this kind. The excellent pamphlets of Drs. T. Hope Lewis and Ginders are not circulated at Home, nor are they sufficiently elaborate to base many recommendations upon. Before giving a detailed account of the most im- portant groups of these springs in the order of medicinal value, I must remind readers that, first, the constituents of a thermal spring do not remain con- stantly uniform, but vary within slight limits; and, second, that the temperatures of all thermal springs vary considerably at times, according to the direction of the wind, and are influenced by certain subterranean changes. Both these facts show the absolute necessity for frequent as. well as accurate observations and analyses of each mineral water. New Zealand contains hot sulphur springs of a kind not found elsewhere, except in the Yellowstone Park ill Wyoming, U.S., and silicious geysers not equalled anywhere in the world. It also has mineral waters of equal strength and of similar constituents to those of Vichy, Ems, Eachingen, Bilin, Aix-la-Chapelle, Pyrmont in Waldeck, Eaux Chaudes (Basses Pyrenees), Royat (Auvergne), Harrogate, and Strathpeffer in 76 NEW ZEALAND, Scotland. This fact alone should be an inducement to many sufferers from chronic ailments (gout, rheumatism, gravel, skin diseases, syphilis, &c.), who remain still un- cured after trial of the spas in Europe to visit the colony and try what its springs will do for them. For I am sure that in this grand exhilarating climate the mineral waters best suited to his case will be found to do him more good than they would on the continent of Europe. Commencing with the feebler spring most resembling that European spa which had best suited him, the invalid will go on to one more powerful until he completes the course of treatment, about which he will find valuable suggestions in this chapter. He will, of course, consult the resident medical man wherever there is one, at these thermal resorts. There are fewer potable mineral waters in New Zealand than in Europe, because of the widely pervading sulphides in their com- position, and the more recent character of the strata through which they emerge. From the analyses made in the colonial laboratory at Wellington by Mr. Skey and Sir James Hector, the mineral waters of New Zealand have been classified into the following five groups : 1. Saline, containing chiefly chloride of sodium (common salt), for example, the Crow's Nest spring, Taupo ; the Onetapu spring, Mount Euapehu. 2. Alkaline, containing carbonates and bi-carbonates of soda and potash, such as Waiwera, Puriri, Whangape. 3. Alkaline-silicious, containing much silicic acid, but changing rapidly on exposure to the air, and becoming alkaline, such as the geysers at Whakare- warewa, Kuirau, Whangapipiro (Eotorua). 4. Hepatic or sulphurous, the prominent character of which is the presence of sulphuretted hydrogen and sulphurous acid, such as Te Kute (Eotorua), and Otumahike (Taupo). 5. Acidic, in which there is an excess of mineral acids, such as hydrochloric and sulphuric acids. Examples of these are found at Ohaeawai (Bay of Islands) and Sulphur Bay, Lake Eotorua. Iodine springs. It seems that out of the seventy- THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 77 three mineral springs analysed up to 1886, only three contain iodine in appreciable quantities. In the Taupo district Tarawera Spring contains 0*7 of a grain per gallon, and Parkes's Spring contains one grain per gallon ; in the province of Wellington the cold spring of Pahua contains a little more than two grains per gallon. The Maoris distinguish the various forms of the hot springs as they appear on the surface by the terms puia, applied to all geysers ; nyawha to a hot steaming spring ; and waiariki to any pool of hot water or mud suitable for bathing. The principal chalybeate springs are those of Kamo, Akiteo No. 2 (Wellington), Amberley (Canterbury), and Chain Hills near Dunedin (Otago). Before describing the composition and uses of the mineral waters at our three principal spas Waiwera, Te Aroha, and Eotorua I will briefly describe a few iso- lated springs of peculiar properties which deserve notice. 1. At Ohaeawai, near a small lake seventeen miles inland from the Bay of Islands (see map), is a group of springs which deposit sulphur, alum, and silica on cool- ing. The temperatures vary from 60 to 116 F., and there is along with the hot water a remarkable escape of mercurial vapours, which deposit cinnabar and me- tallic mercury. These springs are used as baths by the Maoris, and by a few Europeans, for diseases of the skin, and chronic rheumatism of syphilitic origin. I believe that Ohaeawai is unique in these characteristics. 2. Puriri, ten miles from Grahamstown (Thames), near Auckland, is a cold effervescent spring, having valuable properties from the presence of a large per- centage of alkaline carbonates. It is bottled both as still and aerated soda-water, and has a reputation as an aperient and a preventive of gravel and gout. It would prove useful in " acid " dyspepsia. The famous Napa soda-water of California resembles this Puriri water when bottled. Its chief constituents, esti- mated in grains per gallon, are: chloride of sodium 22, sulphate of potash 5, bi-carbonates of lime 28*5, of magnesia 25*6, of soda 452 3 grains. 78 NEW ZEALAND. 3. Onetapu Desert Spring, situated at the sources of the Waikato and Wangaehu rivers, in the vicinity of the still active volcano Ngauruhoe (7481 feet), and issuing from the base of the Monarch of the North Island, Euapehu (8878 feet), is so strongly charged with sul- phates of iron and alumina (58 grains per pint) as to taint the water of the river Wangaehu along its whole course to the sea, a distance of seventy miles. 4. The cold spring of Pahua, in the province of Wel- lington, deserves mention on account of its iodine and of the large amount of its solid constituents, amounting to 1474 grains in the gallon. The waters of this spring, though excessively salt in taste, will, in moderate doses, prove curative in chronic abscesses, swollen lymphatic glands, and other strumous or scrofulous affections. The aperient action will be limited and controlled by the lime salts (126 grains), while children suffering from rickets and deformities of the joints w r ill here find supplied to their blood plasma the elements in which it is deficient. 5. The Hanmer Plain Springs at Amuri, in the Canter- bury district of the Middle Island, are alkaline, having temperatures ranging from 90 to 104, with a strong escape of sulphuretted hydrogen. They are suitable baths for cases of rheumatism and diseases of the skin. Being the only hot springs in the Middle Island, they deserve the special attention of those sufferers in the south of New Zealand to whom the journey to the Hot Lakes of the North Island would be too painful or too costly. The established spas of New Zealand, where proper hotel and bathing accommodation is provided for visitors, consist of three, which I will now describe in some detail : Waiwera, Te Aroha, and Eotorua. 1. Waiwera. This charming health resort, situated twenty-six miles north of Auckland, on the east coast, opposite the Kawau Island, consists of a large hotel built by Mr. Eobert Graham about twenty years since at the mouth of the Waiwera river, and of an ever-flowing hot alkaline spring known to the natives from the THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 79 earliest times. Mr. Graham laid out the estate on which the hotel is built with a taste, liberality of expenditure, and foresight always characteristic of him. All visitors from abroad are delighted with the scenery, the baths, the various recreations, and the table d'hote at Waiwera. To visit Auckland and leave it without seeing Waiwera, as many travellers do, is as great an omission as to visit Naples without seeing Capri, or Lisbon without spending a day at Cintra. A steamer leaves Auckland twice a week for Waiwera (four hours), and three times a week a coach leaves Devonport on the North Shore for the same place, doing the trip in about six hours. Until the jetty is built at Waiwera an invalid should go there by coach, but all who can endure a little inconvenience in the primitive mode of disembarkation should go by steamer. For the ex- quisite view of the little bay of Waiwera as the steamer Rose Casey rounds the last promontory and approaches the shore cannot be surpassed, particularly at sunset, for beautiful colouring, charm of contour, and rich foliage. The visitors receive on landing a cordial welcome from Miss Graham, the buxom hostess, who has the Queen's faculty of never forgetting the faces of those she has once met. A stranger is made to feel quickly at home, and I can say from experience that there is no resort anywhere near Auckland so refreshing and so restful to the jaded nerves of the overwrought merchant or professional man as this popular sanitorium. Boating, fishing, sea bathing, fern and flower gathering, picnics up the river, rides, walks, and lawn tennis, besides the amusement of bathing several times a day in the springs, enable a week or two to be passed most agreeably at Waiwera. In summer the richly stocked gardens yield the largest and longest supplies of strawberries that are supplied to any hotel in the colony. The curious plants, trees, and shrubs naturalized there by Mr. Graham are evidences of the mildness of the climate and richness of the soil. Every evening some social entertainment is promoted by Miss Graham, so that even in wet weather one can 80 NEW ZEALAND. amuse oneself at Waiwera. Of all the visitors whom I met on my frequent visits there, the Australians were the most enthusiastic in their praises of this lovely spot, probably because they lack any such cool summer resort in their own country, for even the delicious air of the Blue Mountains, near Sydney, and the Alpine atmosphere of Mount Macedon in Victoria, are per- meated all day by the rays of a burning sun, which compel invalids to keep indoors during the noonday hours. But at Waiwera, fanned by the never-failing sea breezes, the most delicate visitor on the hottest day in summer may sit in comfort under the trees on the hillside, or in one of the numerous arbours which line the long walk to the baths in perfectly " cool, trans- lucent shade." So inspiring are the lovely scenes around Waiwera that even prosaic people rush into rhyme people who never committed poetry before ! Need I say that this is the favourite place for newly married Aucklanders to spend their honeymoon ? Yet, though " far from the busy hum of men," the telegraph and the daily mail keep Waiwera in touch of the outside world. Though the summer is considered the season, Waiwera affords a mild and well-sheltered winter residence. I must now describe the mineral waters. The temperature of the spring as it issues from the sand near high- water mark is 110, and that of the enclosed swimming bath is generally 100. At the end of a fagging day in town or of a very active day at Waiwera, a swim in this bath is a most luxurious sensation. In rheumatism, bronchitis, and bronchial catarrh these baths are useful, aided by the soothing effect of the sea air and the sheltered warmth of the place. Used as a drinking spring the Waiwera water is not disagreeable, resembling diluted Wiesbaden water. Being a light saline aperient and excitant of the kidneys, it may be used as a preventive of calculus, and to relieve acidity of the stomach. The principal mineral salts, in grains per gallon, are as follows : Chloride of sodium 116, bi-carbonate of soda THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 81 87, carbonate of lime 10, silica 2, bi-carbonates of mag- nesia 95, and of iron 68, sulphate of soda 383. The water also contains small amounts of free carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen gases. On the whole the waters are less energetic than those of Te Aroha. But even if the spring were to cease flowing the manifold attractions of Waiwera would be but im- perceptibly diminished. 2. Te Aroha, 126 miles south-east from Auckland, and now the terminus of a railway which strikes off from the main Waikato line at Frankton junction, is rising into importance as a thermal resort. Nestling at the side of a spur from the great Te Aroha mountain (3000 feet), one of the highest of the Upper Thames range, and having the river Waihou meandering at its foot, Te Aroha presents some of the picturesque features of a Swiss Alpine town. There are two routes from Auck- land, one by steamer to Grahamstown, Thames river, eight hours ; thence by coach the following day to Te Aroha, six hours ; the other by rail in eight hours. Approaching Te Aroha by rail from the town of Morrinsville, and crossing the plains so well drained and cultivated by the Patetere Land Company, the scene reminded me of the view of Santa Barbara, California, as it lies at the base of the Coast Eange. Te Aroha has now a resident population, inclusive of the mining township, three miles south, of 1000. Hundreds of visitors in the summer season (November to March) find capital accommodation, suited to slender as well as large means, in the four hotels and three board- ing houses of the town. There are three places of wor- ship (all such are called " churches " in the colonies) ; a Public Hall, Free Library, boating establishment, the usual postal, telegraph, and banking offices ; and, now, well-fitted bathing arrangements. Horses for riding and driving are good, moderate in hire, and abundant. A favourite excursion, to the lovely glen of Waiorongomai, where the exquisite ferns, tree-ferns, creepers, forest trees, and the waterfalls are a never-failing joy to the visitor, and are not spoiled by the working of the mines G 82 NEW ZEALAND. above the hills. Another trip, very enjoyable to the active man or woman with sound lungs, is up to the summit of the Te Aroha mountain, by an easy track, whence a grand panorama, extending for 100 miles in every direction, is obtained. Besides all the islands in the Bay of Plenty (see map), including White Island, the Sulphur Volcano, one can see on a clear day the giant volcanoes Mount Euapehu, and Mount Tongariro, described in chapter vii. To those unable to make the complete ascent, a lower spur of the mountain, called " Bald Hill," affords a plateau whence the invalid may enjoy both a bracing air and a pleasing view. As a change from Waiwera, Te Aroha, while more bracing, is still calmative and tranquillizing to highly nervous persons. Eighteen springs, of which fifteen are hot, issue from the hillside overshadowing the town. All except two, Nos. 16 and 17 in the official list, published in Dr. Alfred Wright's " Medical Guide to Te Aroha," are alkaline, being heavily charged with bi-carbonate of soda ; and all the eighteen contain free carbonic acid gas in large quantities. Sir James Hector compares these springs to the waters of Vichy (France), Bilin (Bohemia), and Ems (Nassau). The analyses of the three principal springs, the temperatures of which, at their sources, range from 105 to 119 F., are given by Mr. J. A. Pond (1885), Colonial Analyst for Auckland district, as follows, expressed in grains per gallon. No. L Bath. No. II. Ba'h. Cold Drinking Spring. Bi-carbonate of soda 72S-73 698-513 682-123 Carbonate of ammonia 3-55 112 980 Carbonate of iron 04 063 042 In addition to these con- Chloride of sodium Phosphate of soda 73-514 2-063 72-072 2 203 77-748 1-696 stituents, there were " heavy Phosphate of alumina 143 023 476 traces " of carbonate of lithia, Sulphate of soda. ,, potash 27-546 10-293 28 Oj6 9-800 25-438 10-794 and of sulphuretted hydrogen. ,, lime. 2-989 2.228 2-989 " The free carbonic acid gas magnesia 378 8'568 336 8-778 602 8-778 was not estimated." Total solid matter. 857-814 822-184 801-702 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 83 A later analysis, given by Sir James Hector on the 4th of January, 1887, which is too long and elaborate to quote here, exhibits a decrease in the amount of mineral constituents, but no decrease in the gases nor in the temperatures, thus illustrating the truth of the remark made (p. 75) upon the variations of thermal springs. Since 1884, an area of twenty acres, including all the eighteen springs, has been enclosed, and laid out as a garden, with walks, trees, lawns, seats, and bath-houses, (public and private), by the newly constituted Domain Board, but at the expense of the Government. The rapidly increasing popularity of the baths is shown by the fact that during 1886 thirty thousand bath tickets were issued. The baths have cured many cases of rheumatism, sciatica, lumbago, paralysis of a rheumatic or syphilitic nature, eczema, insomnia, Bright's disease, amenorrhcea, ophthalmia tarsi, and rheumatic- gouty contraction of the joints. Certain cases of asthma and chronic bronchitis have been benefitted by those baths that are richest in the evolution of sulphuretted hydrogen. Still further clinical experience of these springs will doubtless bring more diseases under their control. The cold drinking spring (No. 3) is excellent as a diuretic for gouty and obese persons with inactive livers. In healthy persons, as I found experimentally, it produces a vigorous action of the kidneys, and slight diarrhoea. This spring is so much in demand as a natural soda-water that a company has been formed to buy the right of bottling it at its source, and it is now largely used in the colony. 3. Eotorua. A thoroughly inland alpine resort, at an-elevation of a thousand feet above sea level, forms a striking contrast to seaside places like Waiwera, and to the inland health resorts such as Te Aroha, which is only 130 feet above the sea. Rotorua is the highest place in New Zealand possessing thermal springs, and can boast of. the most powerful hot sulphur baths in the southern hemisphere. Lake Rotorua (see map 3), situated on a mountainous plateau about forty miles from the Bay of Plenty, is the largest lake but one G 2 84 NEW ZEALAND. (Taupo) in the North Island, being six miles across, and about twenty miles in circumference. The lake is shallow, having an average depth of between twenty and thirty feet, and is considered by Dr. Hochstetter to have been formed by the subsidence of part of the ground forming the plateau, not to have been a volcanic crater. A conical hill 400 feet high, in the centre of the lake, forms the island called Mokoia. Of the mountains encircling the lake, Mount Ngongotaha (see chapter iii. for the pronunciation) towers up to a height of 2554 feet. I am thus particular in giving the elevation of this the highest mountain in the neigh- bourhood because the whole Eotorua district is liable to changes by upheaval and subsidence. Earthquakes are frequent ; and new hot springs gush out from the ground now and then, making great holes, and altering the water level in the lake, the height of which above the sea is usually 961 feet. The Government of New Zealand, following the wise example of the United States, have preserved the Eotorua district from land speculators by a special Act of Parliament, entitled "The Thermal Springs District Act, 1881." By this Act a large area of the Hot Lake country, containing all the important springs, is reserved for the Government to deal with. The Eotorua township of 600 acres was laid out on the southern shore of Eotorua close by the ancient Maori village of Ohinemutu, in square blocks. After making liberal provision for the hospital, bath- pavilion, church, school, cemetery, post-office, &c., all the allotments were put up to auction for lease of ninety-nine years for the Crown. All the " mineral waters, hot springs, and streams" are by this Act " vested in the Crown." The allotments were promptly bought up, and the town of Eotorua has steadily grown ever since, in spite of financial depression, and the large falling-off of visitors since the destruction of the terraces of Eotomahana in 1886. The real and perma- nent merit of the hot sulphur springs will always keep Eotorua going. There are already three excellent hotels and two or three boarding houses. An able medical THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 85 man has been appointed as resident officer of the " Sanatorium," as the hospital and bath-pavilion to- gether are termed. A pure supply of drinking water is obtained from the Puarenga stream. The new town of Eotorua is reached by two routes from Auckland. The most direct route is by rail to Oxford, 133 miles ; next morning by coach from Oxford to Rotorua, thirty-four miles. In less than two years the railway will be continued right through to Rotorua. The other route is by sea from Auckland to Tauranga on the Bay of Plenty, 135 miles, and thence by coach early next morning via the Gorge Road, through a magnificent forest, for eighteen miles, and open country for twenty-four miles, to the township. Visitors from Wellington and the south generally take rail or steamer to Napier, whence they take coach to Taupo, ninety-six miles, spending one night on the way ; from Taupo they proceed to Rotorua, fifty-six miles, arriving on the evening of the third day. This is a romantic and varied journey, but only healthy and robust persons should take this route. The present arrangements of the journey via Oxford make it as easy for invalids as the nature of the country traversed can admit of. In this chapter I shall confine myself to the mineral springs and the climate, reserving for chapter vi. the description of the Geysers, Terraces, and other won- ders as I saw them before the eruption of Tarawera. The information given in the " Medical Guide to Rotorua," by T. Hope Lewis, Esq., M.R.C.S., the first resident medical superintendent, and in the pamphlet by his successor, Dr. A. Ginders, supplemented by my own per- sonal knowledge, and the accounts of numerous patients " at first hand," has enabled me to set before my readers the first succinct, complete, and systematized account of these famous sulphur springs that has yet appeared. The medical profession throughout Australasia hope that each resident medical officer will keep careful records of all cases under thermal treatment, so as toprecisionize, as years roll on, our knowledge of the specific qualities of each spring. Invalids " of weak chest " that is, those 86 NEW ZEALAND. suffering from consumption, phthisical pneumonia, or pleurisy patients, in a word, who ought never to take a hot mineral bath should not visit Eotorua, even in " the season " from October till April. For they will not be able to breathe such rarefied air as one has at Davos or St. Moritz, the elevation not being great enough, and the summer weather being showery and stormy. From May till September, comprising " autumn " and winter, the rain keeps delicate people indoors, except during an " Indian summer " of about four weeks usually, when the clear sunny days and fine frosty nights form agreeable weather. On these nights the sight of the Southern Cross, the Argonaut, and the other southern constellations, and occasionally, though rarely, the Aurora Australis, is a grand spectacle. The elevation of the plateau is sufficiently great to relieve cases of pure asthma, bronchitic asthma, and a few cases of bronchitis contracted in smoky cities or at seaports. At Rotorua a south-west wind in the morning, and a north-east breeze in the afternoon (just what the tourist desires for a sail to Mokoia and back) indicate settled weather. Sometimes a north-easter blows for three days, with squalls of rain, but is followed by the south- west wind, with its characteristically clear sunshiny weather. It would be correct to say that, all over the North Island, a south wind brings with it clear weather and sensation of reinvigoration ; and the same is true of that part of Climatic Zone No. II. which lies in the Middle Island. There are in Eotorua township and its outlying settle- ments of Whakarewarewa, Te Koutu, Arikikapakapa, and Tikitere, examples of four out of the five classes into which New Zealand waters are divided (p. 76). I shall give the full analyses of the eight most important springs out of twenty that have been made by Mr. F. C. Skey, partly on the spot (this is important) and partly in Wellington. In the estimation of the volume of gases contained in the springs at their source, it is necessary to analyze them, at least roughly, near their sources. A careful though brief description, with- THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 87 out analysis, of nine less important springs is added, and their special qualities in the treatment of disease. For still more precise directions to the invalids than I here give, readers are referred to the two useful works, by Drs. T. H. Lewis and Ginders, mentioned above, p. 75. The numbering of the springs described is that of Dr. Lewis's book, and not that of Sir James Hector's " Handbook of New Zealand " (Edinburgh, 1886). In Rotorua Township. 1. The Priest's Bath (Class V., Acidic) so called from Father Mahony, of Tauranga, a Eoman Catholic priest, who was the first white man to discover and be cured by its healing virtues. Its native name is Te Pupuni- tanga. It is aluminous and strongly acid. Temperature 98 to 106, averaging 99 in the swimming bath. ANALYSIS OF THE PRIEST'S BATH. (In grains per gallon.) Sulphate of soda . . 19 '24 alumina . . 21 '67 lime . . 7 '41 Traces of sulphate of magnesia . 3 '03 potash were observed. iron . . 1'24 Sulphuric acid . . . 22 '12 Hydrochloric acid . . 3 65 Silica 18-41 Total solids . 96 ' 77 grains per gallon. Sulphuretted hydrogen . 2 '98 Carbonic acid gas . . 2 16 The first visible effect of a swim in this bath is a reddening of the skin, which, in sensitive persons, is followed by itching. Next ensues a stimulation of the liver, as shown by the flow of the bile, making an improvement in the excreta in patients suffering from sluggish liver and chronic jaundice. No very plethoric person, nor one suffering from organic disease of the heart or of the great arteries (such as aneurism), should bathe in this spring. The following complaints and diseases have been successfully treated by the Priest's Bath: gout, dyspepsia, sciatica, chronic rheumatism, 88 NEW ZEALAND. eczema (as a change from the baths), parasitic skin diseases, such as scabies and chloasma, obesity, inactive liver, abdominal congestion (piles, &c.), cold feet, anremia, chlorosis, and sexual impotence. As a rule the patient is cured by a course of thirty-six baths taken during a period of three weeks, intervals to be prescribed by the medical superintendent. In cases of obesity combined with piles, the course should begin with the Priest's Bath for three days, followed by three days of some alkaline bath ; then two days' rest, again the Priest's Bath for three days, and so on, for a period of four to six weeks, by the end of which the patient is completely restored to health. In some of its effects this spring resembles those of Eaux Bonnes and of Eaux Chaudes in the Basses Pyrenees. But the Priest's Bath excels these famous springs by the superior heat of its source, and by its richness in mineral constituents, containing three times the amount of those in Eaux Bonnes, and five times the quantity of those in Eaux Chaudes. 2. Madame Eachel's Spring, or Whangapipiro, (Class III., Alkaline-silicious). Temperature 174 E. at its source. Reaction alkaline. ANALYSIS OF MADAME EACHEL'S BATH. (In grains per gallon.) Chloride of sodium potassium . lithium, traces Sulphate of soda . Silicate of soda lime magnesia . Iron and alumina oxides Silica . Carbonic acid gas . 69-43 3-41 11-80 18-21 4-24 1-09 2-41 5-87 116-46 3-79 The exquisite softness of this water and the charac- teristic power which all the alkaline-silicious waters of Ilotorua possess of imparting a ^loss to the skin have THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 89 led to its fanciful name. A swim in this bath gives the most luxurious sensation to the bather, and certainly improves the complexion, by some unexplained solvent action upon the epidermis. In gout, psoriasis, and ecthyma, and in the carbunculous tendency, this bath is most useful. Internally the water is drunk in cases of rheumatism, gout, and dyspepsia, with the beneficial effect of increasing the elimination of urea and uric acid. Silica and the silicates in combination probably exercise a similar action to that of lithia, an ingredient which gives Eoyat Spa in Auvergne the value it possesses in curing gout. The Maoris have for many years known the virtues of silicious mud used as a dressing in chronic and indolent ulcers. 3. The Blue Bath, or Chamseleon Spring Oruawhata (Class I., Saline), resembles " Madame Rachel," but is more saline than silicious, and is used in rheumatic cases as a change from other springs. Its temperature is 140. The Government have constructed a capital swimming bath of concrete, 62 by 23 feet, with dressing- rooms on three sides ; the tank holding 32,000 gallons of the water. A peculiar feature here is the natural sulphurous vapour bath, supplied by the gas issuing from a cavity broken into during the excavations. The composition of the gas is (2 HS + S0 2 ). Both these springs have the property of encrusting with silica articles immersed in the water for a few weeks. Ferns, branches of trees, feathers, and birds' nests form beautiful specimens of incrustation. The water of Oruawhata cooled to 130 is an admirable means of destroying slugs, snails, and other enemies of plant life. 4. The Laughing Gas or Cameron's Bath Kau- whanga (a). 5. The Pain Killer Kauwhanga (6). 6. The Coffee Pot Kauwhanga (c). These three springs are of similar constitution, and belong to Class IV., ' Hepatic ' or sulphurous waters. Each spring evolves a large amount of mixed gases, chiefly sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid. The effect of the gas arising from the surface of No. 4 bath 90 NEW ZEALAND. is so exciting and exhilarating as to give it the name it bears. The temperature is 108. Bathing in the spring itself is to be avoided, as fainting has been often caused by the gases breathed. The Pain Killer is safer and more useful than No. 4. It is one of the most valuable hepatic springs in Eotorua. It is fed by an intermittent geyser, which spouts up at a temperature of 214, and is cooled down by being led into a hole in the ground near the lake- margin. In this hole there is a large quantity of silicious mud, which is impregnated with the mineral constitu- ents of the geyser. The name of this bath is given it from its success in relieving gouty and rheumatic joints. It forms the best alternative with the Priest's Bath for cases of chronic gout. ANALYSIS OF THE PAIN-KILLER. (In grains par gallon.) Chloride of sodium 46 42 potassium . calcium magnesium . iron and aluminium Sulphate of soda . Hydrochloric acid. Silica . 1-71 2-66 1-47 4-22 29-14 6-84 18-02 110-48 Sulphuretted hydrogen . . . . 4 '84 7. Stonewall Jackson or McHugh's Bath Hinemaru (Class III., Alkaline-siliceous), has a temperature of from 98 to 118 F. It is saline with silicates and has an alkaline reaction. As a bath it is efficient in removing skin diseases such as eczema, and as a drinking spring, when filtered, it is beneficial in cases of atonic dyspepsia, and in the uric acid diathesis. ANALYSIS OF STONEWALL JACKSON. (In grains per gallon.) Chloride of sodium .... 93'46 potassium . . . . 4*69 lithium, traces Sulphate of soda 2 '76 THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 91 Mono-silicate of sula Silicate of lime magnesia Iron and aluminium oxides Silica . In Ohinemutu. 6-41 2-89 1-02 2-10 8-29 121-62 Nos. 8 and 9. The Lake House Hotel Baths. These two baths, of which (a) is clear and (6) is muddy, are called by the natives Waihunuhunukuri, the meaning of which is " water for scalding a dog." They belong to Class V., Acidic Waters, and have properties some- what similar to those of the Priest's Bath. As the muddy Waihunuhunukuri is ferruginous with excess of silica and without alum, and as it has proved especially useful in anaemia and chlorosis, I here give the chemical analysis. ANALYSIS OF LAKE HOUSE MUDDY BATH. (In grains per gallon.) Sulphate of soda . 22 -44 potash lime . magnesia iron . Sulphuric acid Hydrochloric acid Silica . 0-62 9*81 1-82 12-66 18-49 7' 66 18-06 91-56 The existence of so large a quantity of sulphate of iron and of the mineral acids necessitate the very careful and sparing use of this water when taken internally. Nos. 10 and 11 Waikite (a) and (fe), belonging to Class II., Alkaline, resemble in a general way Madame Rachel, being feebly saline, with silicates, and their reaction being alkaline when cool. The former is the bath reserved for Mrs. Morrison's hotel and the latter, known as Scott's bath, is in use at Kelly's hotel. These baths are useful for the same diseases in which Madame Rachel's bath is beneficial. 92 NEW ZEALAND. No. 12, Te Tapui, in the Te Koutu settlement, is an alkaline, highly silicated hot spring, usually 90 to 100 F. in temperature, but rising to 180 when the wind is north or east. It is beneficial in psoriasis. In Whakarewarewa. No. 13. The Spout Bath Turikore (Class II. Alka- line), is a warm waterfall, a natural and powerful douche, which is admirable in muscular rheumatism, lumbar myalgia, and local palsy. There being no hotel, Maoris hire out their whares to invalids and engage themselves as nurses for those who need them. After using the hot douche of the waterfall one can swim in the warm pool below, and then finish up by a swim in the cold stream "Puarenga," into which the Turikore spring pours itself. But as active exercise in hot water is apt to make even a robust man feel faint, no invalid or tourist should attempt this programme without having a friend or attendant near him. ANALYSIS OF THE SPOUT BATH. (In grains per gallon.) Silicate of soda . 16 '32 lime . 1'61 magnesia 1'14 iron . 0'39 Sulphate of soda . 13 '47 Chloride of potassium 1 ' 24. sodium 53 '61 Phosphate of alumina, traces 87-78 No. 14. The Oil Bath Korotiotio (Class II., Alkaline), is so strongly alkaline as to have a slightly caustic effect on the skin. Hence its name from the peculiar smooth, soapy feeling it gives to a sensitive skin. The Maoris use it in washing clothes. Of course in any case their washing bill would not be very extensive ! Bathing in this spring is very sedative to the nerves. The geyser which feeds Korotiotio, having a tempera- THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 93 ture of 214 F., has formed a curious mound of silicious rock, which is covered with beautiful sulphur crystals. It is particularly well adapted for treating skin diseases accompanied with nervous irritation. ANALYSIS OF THE OIL BATH. (In grains per gallon.) Mono-silicate of soda . lime magnesia iron Sulphate ot soda . Chloride of potassium . sodium Silica, free . Chloride of lithium alumina traces and phosphate of 2-08 3-16 0-76 0-85 7-49 1-46 66-84 22-40 104-54 At Tikitere. Nos. 18 and 19. The hot waterfall called " Te Mimi o te Kakahi," having a temperature of 90 to 112, and the Great Spring "Te Kute" are powerful hepatic waters belonging to Class IV. ANALYSIS OF TE KUTE. (In grains per gallon.) Sulphate of soda 12 '66 alumina . . . . 11 '22 potash . . . . 0'59 lime 1-01 magnesia . . . . 0'69 iron 1-73 Phosphoric acid traces Sulphuric acid, free . . . . 0-77 Hydrochloric acid, free . . . . 1-63 Sulphuretted hydiogen . . . . 5 '74 Silica 12-40 48-44 In appearance Te Kute is a large furiously boiling pool, dull brown in colour, strongly odorous of sulphu- retted hydrogen, from which dense volumes of steam 94 NEW ZEALAND. arise. The water is conducted by a small channel into a very primitive bath situated inside a small native whare of raupo, and is there reduced to a temperature which is safe and pleasant. Many remarkable cures of chronic muscular and articular rheumatism of many years' standing have been effected by this bath. Some parasitic diseases of the skin have been cured here in a short time. Dr. Ginders tells us of two cases of cure by this bath which it is desirable to note. First, a man from Tauranga, who had been reduced to a state of extreme prostration by a severe cervico-brachial neu- ralgia, which had for many months resisted all kinds of treatment, was cured here in a fortnight. Second, a man aged thirty-two, who had suffered for more than a year from paraplegia involving the .bladder (of syphilitic origin), was cured completely in fourteen days by spending three hours a day in the bath. The scenery of Tikitere, which is on the shores of the lake, twelve miles from Rotorua, is gloomy in the extreme; it is compared by most writers to Dante's Inferno. It is this characteristic, and the lack of all comfortable accommodation that keep the greater number of rheumatic sufferers away. But the tourist should visit Tikitere for its curious sights, sounds, and odours ; and, as a relief to his eye, afterwards explore the lovely Lake Eotokawau, on the plateau close by. To sum up, then, the diseases that experience has taught us thus far to have been unmistakably benefitted or cured by the thermal treatment at Eotorua are the following, though I cannot undertake to say that the list is a complete one : chronic rheumatism, muscular and articular ; rheumatic gout or rheumatoid arthritis ; sciatica ; lumbar myalgia ; various neuralgise ; dyspep- sia; obesity and piles; all the scaly, vesicular, and parasitic diseases of the skin ; some cases of chronic sore throat; amenorrhcea, dysmenorrhcea, anaemia, ovaritis, and sterility in women. As our exact know- ledge of these potent springs increases I have no doubt that many other derangements of health will in time be brought into their curative sphere. I even conceive TEE MINERAL SPRINGS OF NEW ZEALAND. 95 it probable, from what I have seen of its early manifes- tations in Hawaii and in Norway (Trondhjem) that the most loathsome of all chronic diseases, LEPKOSY, might be arrested in its fatal course by the strongest of the acidic baths. A word or two may be addressed to my confreres in New Zealand or Australia as to the kinds of cases that should not be sent to Eotorua. Patients suffering from consumption (second or third stages); from chronic Bright' s disease; from spinal caries ; from myelitis; from cerebral softening ; and from organic heart disease, espe- cially mitral obstruction, should never be sent there by their medical attendants. A few useful specific direc- tions to invalids concerning the use of the baths may now be given, but not to interfere in the slightest degree with the more minute instruction that they are sure to get from the skilled balneologists at Eotorua and Te Aroha who conduct the courses of treatment. 1st. For chronic rheumatism a course of from two to three months is usually sufficient to cure. Take two or three baths daily, beginning with the Priest's Bath. Once take a swim in the Blue Bath, and drink a tumblerful of Madame Eachel's Spring after each dip. After three weeks of the foregoing, resort to Whakare- warewa or Tikitere for the douches. 2nd. Gout is admirably treated by the Eotorua Baths. Every day bathe twice in the Priest's Bath, and follow each bath by a pail douche of water 10 lower than that of the bath. After two weeks or so use the Pain Killer Spring. For cases of gout, where there is a marked tendency to complication of internal organs, such as the heart, brain, stomach, or lungs, the thermal treatment is not suitable. 3rd. If acute attacks of either rheumatism or gout occur during the course the baths must be at once suspended until they are quite gone. 4th. For very obstinate cases of psoriasis or lepra a course of four and a half months' treatment is required, taking the following baths in succession: Turikore, Korotiotio, Te Tapui te Koutu, Hinernaru, and Whanga- 96 NEW ZEALAND. pipiro.- In the middle of this course a break-off of a fortnight is often an advantage, the waters acting with greater vigour upon a renewal of the systematic bath- ing. It is often found in cases of chronic sciatica that though the pain has not completely left the patient at the conclusion of his prescribed course of baths, it leaves off entirely and permanently within a month after he reaches home. If an invalid's malady is not cured by the end of the month of April, and he finds himself overtaken at Eotorua by the winter rains, it is best for him to leave for Auckland, Tauranga, or Napier, where he may spend the winter in sheltered quarters and enjoy both town society and varied amusements. Dr. Lewis lays it down as an absolute rule that patients undergoing systematic thermal treatment must abstain from alcohol. Eegular exercise must be taken daily, but never to the extent of fatigue ; and the clothing must be carefully adjusted to the state of the weather. Dr. Ginders so pithily expresses one of the difficulties of the medical superintendent in turning out " neat cures " that I take the liberty of quoting it from his pamphlet. " Our visitors to Eotorua may be divided into three classes : the tourist, the invalid tourist, and the invalid. "With the invalid we know what we have to do ; with the tourist we have nothing to do ; but the invalid tourist is a decidedly unsatisfac- tory person. He expects to be able to exhaust his energies to any extent in sight-seeing, and yet to be cured of his ailment by taking a bath here and a bath there, as it happens to suit his convenience. He is generally disappointed, of course, and goes away to tell the world that the Hot Lake district of New Zealand is a much over-rated place. ' I have trjed it, sir, and I came away rather worse than better.' No doubt of it. My medical brethren should advise the invalid tourist to attend to business first and to take his pleasure afterwards." CHAPTER VI. THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND: EXCURSIONS TO THE HOT LAKES AND TO THE WEST COAST SOUNDS. Excursions to Rotorua, via, Tauranga in the summer of 1880-1 Tauranga Oropi Gorge Eoad Beauty of the forest Ohiaeiiiutu Loafing natives Baths al fresco Wairoa Tiki- tapu bush Lake Tarawera White Terrace Geysers and mud fumaroles Pink Terrace Luxurious bathing lleturn down the swift hot creek of the Kaiwaka Fate of the extor- .. donate Tuhourangi Maoris Scenic attractions of the Middle Island Lakes, mountains, glaciers, fjords Lakes Wakatipu, Te Anau and Manapouri West Coast Sounds, thirteen in number Annual excursion by Union Company's s.s. Tarawera, Captain Sinclair My visit in January, 1884 Excellent arrangements Port Chalmers Preservation Inlet Cuttle Cove Dusky Sound and Mr. Doherty Spinach discovered by Cook in Dusky Sound Vancouver Entertainment by crew Wet Jacket Arm Hector's theory of the formation of these fjords Caswell Bay marble Milford Sound: its Narrows, Upper Bay; Mitre Peak, the glory of Milford Sound Bowen Falls Ascent of Mitre Peak Sutherland Fall, 1900 feet Reischek and his dog Return. HAVING in the previous chapter confined my description of the Hot Lake district to the mineral springs and their distinctive characteristics, I now propose, by the aid of my journal, to give my readers an idea of the original appearance of what has been aptly called " The Wonderland of New Zealand," namely, the White Terraces of Rotomahana, and the Plutonic manifestations in their neighbourhood now, alas ! no longer visible, having been destroyed by the catastrophe of June 10th, 1886, chronicled in chapter vii. Just as the paintings of the lamented Terraces are enhanced in value now that they have ceased to exist, so I trust that a truthful and unexaggerated account of them by an eye-witness H 98 NEW ZEALAND. may not be without interest or a certain historical value. The reader will bear in mind that in 1880, when my visit was made, there was no railway to Oxford ; the sea route from Auckland via Tauranga was the only way of reaching Rotorua ; the natives in that region were mostly demoralized loafers ; and the Government had not yet organized the township of Rotorua, the Sanatorium, the tenure of land, &c., which have now so civilized the Maoris, and improved the whole arrangements for the tourist and invalid. My friends Judge Maning (author of " Old New Zea- land"), Mr. S. Jackson, sen., of Auckland, and Mr. Robert Proude, of Razorback, Waikato, and I, started from Auck- land in the steamer Waitdki on a fine summer evening, December 20th, 1880, and reached Tauranga in time for breakfast the next day, December 21st, the longest day in those latitudes. In this sleepy little town, with its very pretty surroundings, we rested for a day, and engaged a coach and four horses, with relays provided, for the eight or ten days of our excursion. The expense amounted to only five shillings apiece per day, and we had much comfort and enjoyment in not being tied to particular routes, stages, or times. One of Kelly's employes, a merry, lively fellow, drove us skil- fully and amused us with local gossip. Starting, then, early on the morning of the 22nd December, we ascended to Oropi, ten miles from Tauranga, and 900 feet above the sea, which was at that time the extreme limit of cultivation in the direction of the Hot Lakes. " Oropi " is the Maori name for Europe. The views of the beautiful harbour of Tauranga, terminated seawards by the extinct crater-hill of Mangonui, made this, the first stage of our coach-journey, very interesting. Next we plunged into the Gorge Road, made after the fashion of a " corduroy road " in the United States, ti-tiQQ fascines, tree-fern stems, and wooden stakes being laid across the road on all the soft places. The bumps, thumps, and dislocatory jolts to which the traveller has to submit made this part of the journey "a terror." Since 1880 another road, via Te Puke, has been cut, having fewer THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 99 soft muddy places, so that there is less inconvenience. We joked each other about the roughness of the way, and the Judge especially chaffed me about the lomi-lomi of the Sandwich Islanders which I had been describing down in tranquil Tauranga. Eighteen miles of this became rather wearisome, but I was enchanted with the beauty of the rich and varied New Zealand " bush," as the forest is always called in the colonies, and thus my attention was diverted from the soreness of my bones ! I had been lately in Australia, where the forest is monotonous-, consisting principally of tree-ferns, blue-gum treesj wattles (acacia), with few shrubs and no creepers. The New Zealand trees are mostly evergreen; so are- the- shrubs which picturesquely fill in the lower spaces between the trunks ; and multitudinous graceful vines, plants, creepers, and parasitic vegetation delight the eye in luxuriant profusion. The " bush " in this colony is intermediate in variety, density, and brilliancy between those of Australia and the tropics. I should not rank it as equal to those I saw on the Isthmus of Panama or in Brazil. My friends, being all old settlers, named the various trees for me the nikau palm, with its edible pith, the cabbage tree, from which hats are made ; the totara, rimu, rata, birch, maitai, lance wood, rewa- rewa, potmtakawa all valuable building and furniture woods and the karakct, pulca-puka, tupakihi, and many other pretty shrubs. But no kauri was visible, for this, the most valuable tree in the colony, does not grow south of Mercury Bay. The only sounds in the forest were the occasional clear note of the tui, the chatter of the kaka, and the ory of the kalcapo, otherwise it struck me that the woods were singularly silent. A river ran along the gorge, but almost noiselessly, being contracted to its summer dimensions. In the evening we emerged on to the mountain plateau, at a point about fourteen miles distant from Ohinemutu, and we soon sighted Lake Eotorua and the clouds of steam from the geysers at Sulphur Point. The mountains round the lake, and the hilly island of Mokoia, diversified and filled in the scene. On arriving at Ohinemutu we were greeted by H 2 100 NEW ZEALAND. the crowds of natives, men, women, and children, with begging requests in a manner reminding one of Killarney, only with more " cheek." -Finding the hotels very full, we divided, two going to Lake House Hotel and two to Morrison's, where we found the Maoris less noisy. It appeared, on inquiry, that, owing to the great difficulty of complying with the provisions of the Native Lands Courts, in order to obtain the signatures of every male member of a tribe or hapu (which is necessary for the ownership of any plot of land held as communal pro- perty), the man who builds or leases an hotel feels bound to give free liquor and tobacco to the natives when they demand it. If one refused, the court might turn him out of his holding. Violent scenes used to take place. In 1880 the Maori loafer of Ohinemutu was indeed a low and degraded creature a baser and coloured imitation of the low white man of whom there were dozens living there. A bad state of things : rather improved, however, when Mr. Froude visited Rotorua, and still more mitigated now, since the Thermal Springs Act of 1881 has been in working operation, and since there has been a modification in the Lands Courts' procedure. We, as visitors, were inundated with these beggar-Maoris, many of whom claimed the Judge as an old acquaintance. He was in the old times a powerful rangatira, or chief, among the natives, and we found him everywhere received with acclamation. I believe that this was Judge Mailing's first visit to the Hot Lakes. What we saw on this trip interested him as much as myself a "new chum." At Sulphur Point, where several hot springs are situated, it was an amusing sight to see native men, women, and children swimming about or standing up to the neck in hot water for hours, while close by Maori women were cooking their food in a spring (generally fish which they had caught close by in the lake), and at another spring other women were washing clothes. The stranger at first wonders how the Maoris stand both the heat and the acidity of the sulphur waters as they do ; for I tested a rivulet that ran into their THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 101 bathing place and found that it blackened silver intensely in ten seconds, and that it had a very acid reaction. Testing eleven springs by my own thermo- meter, I found the temperatures to range from 83 to 105 F. Our first excursion from Eotorua was to where the mud geysers and other hot springs are situated. The arrangements here for bathers are very primitive, the Maoris hiring out their grass and fern huts, called wkarcs, to invalids, and assisting those who need it in getting into and out of the baths. I noticed one terrific looking natural hot douche (noticed in chapter v., p. 92) which seemed powerful and hot enough to melt the spinal cord ! It seemed a favourite spot for rheumatic sufferers ; all whom I interrogated said they were steadily improving in health. The natives them- selves believe this hot waterfall will cure everything, even the scrofula, to which they are subject. An emaciated little Maori baby, suffering, I found, from tabes mesenterica, was brought to me for advice at this place. Having been thus detained and separated from the rest of the party, I sought a Maori guide, who uttered the strange phrase that I have quoted in chapter iii., p. 41, as a specimen of the native pronun- ciation of English. The enormous subterranean force in action at Whakarewarewa impressed our minds almost with terror, a feeling only relieved by the beauty of the coral-like fringes of silica and alum on the basins round the geysers, the quaintness of the cups, saucers, humps, and nests built up all around by the continual deposition of sediment, and by the mental satisfaction and gratitude we felt to the Almighty Power who had endowed those steaming waters with such beneficent qualities. Next day we had planned an excursion to the " Ellen's Isle " of Lake Kotorua, Mokoia, the scene of the romantic story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai, so prettily worked up in the poem " Eanolf and Amohia," by Alfred Domett ; but a storm on the lake prevented our starting. Judge Maning gave me his prose version of the Maori legend, just as he had heard it, hundreds 102 NEW ZEALAND. of times, from the old men who make it their business to collect the traditions of the nation and store them in their memories. These Maori memories are truly wonderful, and have been recognised by the Native Lands Courts in the settlement of tribal and individual claims to property. I fear that the multiplication of books, newspapers, and periodical literature is destroying our memories in Western countries, by the phantasma- goria of mental objects flitting before them every day. " The daily perusal of a newspaper for three months," I heard Max Miiller once say, " will destroy the strongest memory." Yet what should we do without the daily enlightener ? There is no space here for this Hero and Leander-like tale, but should this little book ever see a second edition, I will add it to the Maori chapter, for it is a beautiful and characteristic story, and historically true. We next ' girded up our loins ' to the excursion of the tour a visit to Wairoa, Tarawera Lake, and the Pink and White Terraces of Eotomahana. Leaving our hotels early on a lovely summer morning, our coach accommodating, besides our /our selves, the two native women-guides, Kate and Sophia, we drove to Wairoa, eleven miles from Ohinemutu, full of health and spirits. The guides kept up a running fire of jokes in their own language with the Judge, who translated for us anything that was really spicy, and the scenery was most picturesque. Before arriving at Lake Tiki- tapu (see map 2) the water of which is of a deep blue colour, the road runs through the most exquisite piece of "bush" that I have seen in New Zealand. This, alas ! is now gone, perished in the. Tarawera eruption. After passing Lake Tikitapu, we reach Lake Eotokahi, the Green Lake, the colour of which, derived from copper and iron salts in solution, forms a most peculiar contrast to the former lake. At Wairoa we halted for the day at Macrae's Hotel, and explored the hills around. A very pretty cascade, the Wairoa Falls (a rather common name in the colony), is formed here by the stream that issues from Kotokakahi and falls into TEE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 103 Lake Tarawera, We visit the charming little ivy- covered mission chapel, from the trellised window of which one has the loveliest possible Alpine view of Tarawera, and the good Charles Albert Haszard, the devout teacher, minister, and friend of the natives, tells us all the traditions of the place, and gathers the children to sing some hymns. Could we have foreseen that in a few years this good man and more than half his amiable family would have been overwhelmed in the ruins of their own home, the chapel destroyed, and Wairoa blasted with sudden destruction, how sad would our parting have been ! I found that Mr. Haszard, with his wife and daughter (who happily survived the terrible 10th of June, 1886), had thoroughly Christianized and teetotalized all the Maori children. The visits of tourists had demoralized the parents by treating to drink, but the children were safe. At 7 A.M. on a hot Christmas morning, this being the only day available for the guides, our party of four, with the two guides, six native boatmen, and Apero, their captain, proceeded in Indian file down the glen leading from Macrae's to the banks of Lake Tarawera. The track descends 200 feet in one mile, passing over diluvial pumice and sand, abounding in lumps of dark green obsidian (volcanic glass), of which I secured excellent specimens for my mineral cabinet. Though much chaffed about " picking up stones," I. always find that it adds much to the enjoyment and the enduring recollection of a trip through interesting places to bring away specimens illustrating some one of the natural sciences. My hobby is Mineralogy. Very soon we were comfortably seated in a large whaleboat, built by the Warbricks, who do a large business in this line on these lakes, and rowed along the southern shores of Lake Tarawera. This lake is the largest of this district, next to Eotorua, and reminds one of Loch Awe in Scotland. It is ten miles long by two broad, indented by several bays, and en- closed by stern-looking mountains. On its south-eastern side the lake has for its background a grand table-mouu- 104 NEW ZEALAND. tain, Tarawera, whose three rounded peaks, Wahanga, Euawahia, and Tarawera, of an average height of 3650 feet above the sea, formed the foci of the great eruption of 1886, described in chapter viii. Tarawera Lake has an elevation of 1037 feet above sea level, and receives the drainage of Lakes Eotomahana, Eotokakahi, and Eotomakiriri. Its waters are drained into the sea by the Eiver Tarawera, which debouches on the east coast of the Bay of Plenty at the port of Matata (map 3). In our strong and capacious boat we are quickly rowed along the southern shore for nine miles, passing half- way the Eock of the Taipo or Devil, on which Maori voyagers never fail to place a present or coin, to secure themselves against a tempest. Somehow or other we forgot to pay this customary tribute, and I hope our dusky friends noticed that no harm followed. Arriving at the Kaiwaka Creek, in the Bay of Te Ariki, a narrow swift stream of warm water which flows down for two miles from Eotomahana (The Hot Lake, " roto " always meaning " lake "), we disembark, leaving our wraps, &c., in a native " dug-out " canoe, and walk the distance up to the Lake of the Terraces, the far-famed Eotomahaua, through open country, covered with low scrub, con- sisting of ti-tree (manuka) and fern. At first sight Eotomahana appeared to be a small, tame and un- interesting mountain tarn of dull green water, fringed with sedges, rushes, and i-tree, and abounding in wild duck. No sign of human habitation anywhere. We enter a canoe kept for the purpose, and are paddled across to the White Terrace, the Maori name of which is Te Tarata. Here begin the marvels of the unassuming lakelet ; and our admiration goes on wescendo until, after a bath on the Pink Terrace, our vocabulary of wonder and delight is exhausted. Standing on the lake shore, at the foot of the White Terrace, we look up and behold a crescentic mass of white, coral-like platforms, piled up one upon another to the height of what would be eighty feet vertical, but that they gradually shelve backward and upward to the sum- mit, which is 300 yards from the water. The shelves THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 105 thus formed are covered with basins and cups filled with warm water of a deep blue colour, perpetually rippling down from an unseen source above, over their edges, fringed witli innumerable stalactites into the lake at our feet. Gazing upwards we see at the top of the Terrace nothing but clouds of steam, and we hear bubbling, roaring, and booming noises, as of a huge cauldron of boiling water. Ascending slowly and cautiously, some of us in rubber shoes, some without because the water becomes hotter as we go higher we climb forty of these shelves, the lowest having a frontage of 300 yards to the lake. Mineralogically speaking, each shelf or terrace is formed of white silicious sinter, deposited by the gradually cooling hot water that flows down from above, the latest layers showing themselves as exquisitely delicate fretwork upon the surface, which it seems almost sacrilegious to crush beneath our tread. Having reached the summit (one of us with a scalded foot), we are startled to find the source of all this hot water to be an immense geyser, which shoots up into the air from the unknown depths of a vast cauldron of rock, upon the rim of which we are now standing. Twenty, thirty, forty, or even sixty feet into the air, at uncertain intervals, the geyser fountain plays ; its temperature of 210 to 214, rendering all near approach dangerous, and making an abrupt retreat into the scrub necessary whenever the wind blows the steam towards the spectator. By chemical analysis this geyser water contains : Chloride of sodium . . . .62 grs. per gallon. Silicate of soda . . . . 68 Monosilicates of iron, lime, and magnesia 3 Medicinally I thought this water would prove beneficial if taken internally in rickets and mollities ossium. Our party now turned and looked over the lake. With but a little knowledge of geology, a comprehensive glance around showed us the process of formation of this beautiful structure. Centuries ago a geyser of great force and volume, forced up by Plutonic fires below the 106 NEW ZEALAND. earth's crust, burst out near the lake margin, through a hill formed of mixed clays and decomposed lava. After partly crumbling away the slope of the hill, it kept depositing on the ledges into which the ground was formed, by the water flowing over rock and soil of various resisting powers, the silicates which had been dissolved in its water under enormous subterranean pressure at a very high temperature thus building up the wondrous terraces, basins, and stalactites before us. What remains of the harder strata of the original hill is a nearly vertical wall of rock surrounding the geyser, except at one side. The day was warm and bright, with a pleasant breeze. What, I thought, is the much- praised Taj Mahal of Agra, and what are the most elaborately carved cathedral sculptures of the old country, all the work of man, beautiful though they are, compared to this lovely tracery sculptured by the Creator ! The sapphire blue of the water in the count- less cups and pools sparkling in the brilliant sunshine, and contrasting beautifully with the alabaster fretwork done in semi-transparent yet permanent stone, inimit- able by man ; the awe-inspiring geyser roaring above ; the dull green dismal lake below ; the barren hills around, desolate, treeless, and uninhabited ; the dusky aboriginals grouped around us ; heaven's azure expanse above us all these elements combined to produce a picture which even a skilful artist could bat inade- quately portray, and which my words can but feebly represent to those who have never been there. The scene impressed us all as something unique, not possible to be reproduced elsewhere in the world. Our party then, carefully guided, for the ground is thickly honeycombed by volcanic furnaroles, solfataras, and hot springs, explored the neighbourhood at the back and side of the Terrace. Two other large geysers, Te Hutu and Kakarike, we observed close by. The Devil's Blow Hole, whence steam issues with a terrific noise exactly like that of the escape pipe of a large steamer ; the green lake emitting an odour of rotten eggs ; the mud spring which the natives take internally as a cure THE WONDERLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND. 107 for certain diseases ; the Alum Cave ; and many other wonders, exhibit the prodigal and varied energy of the kingdom of Pluto. After an excellent alfresco lunch, we embark in the canoe, and paddle across the lake to the Pink Terrace, called Otukapuarangi in Maori. Here a similar for- mation of sinter terraces has been going on for ages, but some coloration of a pink or coralline hue, due to iron in the soil it is thought, has modified the white in a very pretty manner. Some are of the opinion that the discoloration is the effect of a fire or series of fires among the i-tree, but in my opinion this is an erroneous, because an insufficient explanation. The summit geyser of the Pink Terrace is neither so hot as that of the White Terrace nor so violent in its action. The water, running more slowly down over the slope and containing the large quantity of forty-three grains of free silica in the gallon, forms cups and basins more rapidly than in the case of the White Terrace, by depositing a transparent film, which soon hardens and turns white on exposure to the air. Objects placed in this or the other mineral water become very prettily encrusted with silica. Five of the upper steps of the Pink Terrace have deep basins filled with warm bluish water of a temperature varying from 80 to 100, forming most luxurious natural baths, which we enjoyed most thoroughly. The subaqueous deposit feels smooth and gelatinous to the skin, and the traveller feels so happy in his bath that, like the Lotophagi, he cares not how time flies. But time does fly (a way time has) ; the sun is declining, and after a shuddering inspection of an awful " lake burning with fire and brimstone " near by, a look at two other terraces whose geysers have subsided ; and at six other geysers that may form terraces, some day, we have reluctantly to leave this wonderland. The Kaiwaka Creek, bordered by boiling mud springs and steam jets, bears our narrow canoe swiftly down its warm stream to Lake Tarawera, where our trusty whale-boat awaits us. It is nearly dark when we leave the mouth of the creek for home. Cap- 108 NEW ZEALAND. tain Apero and his oarsmen pull us along lustily, with many a native song and chorus, keeping admirable time, Kate and Sophia smoking their pipes in much good- hurnour, for they look upon Judge Maning as the great rangatira, whom it was a distinguished honour to conduct. We arrive at the Wairoa boat-house about 10 P.M., tired, but none the worse for the dangers we had encountered, except our friend with the scalded foot, which speedily healed. At the time of our visit the Maori tribe who owned the Lake Eotomahana, the Terraces, and the Inferno near them had the sole monopoly of guiding the tourists ; hence it cost us 8 for the day's excursion. They also obliged any artist or photographer to pay at least 5 down for the privilege of obtaining any picture or sketch of the ' show places.' Loud and frequent were the complaints of visitors, artists especially, of these extortions. But the terrible eruption of Tarawera swept the tribe away as well as the objects they so jealously guarded. Our subsequent adventures and experiences even at the tangi held at Te ISTgae, on the western shore of Lake Kotorua, described in chapter iii., were tame compared with the excursion to the Terraces. There linger in my memory an exquisite rosy twilight and gorgeously coloured sunset one evening at Tauranga, and the witty conversation of Judge Maning, who was a per- fect fountain of Maori lore, acute character-sketching, and amusing stories. In chapter vii. I shall point out to the reader the very numerous and striking curiosities of nature (especially the Wai-o-tapu Valley), that remain since the destruction of the Terraces. The West Coast Sounds. We now turn to the Middle Island in search of the picturesque and the wonderful. The tourist asks, " What is best worth seeing ? " I reply, " Whatever you miss, don't fail to visit the West Coast Sounds." If the North Island has volcanic scenery excelling Italy, the To fact pa^elOS London,; A./.mv iu by drink Conclusion. IN New Zealand, the man who is adaptable to new conditions, and of a sympathetic nature, and who is not too old to learn, will find social life (as I have found it) very enjoyable, whether in town, or in the country. The reception given to such an one, whether man or woman, combines both English kindness, Australian heartiness, and the readiness to make a new neighbour feel " at home," that is characteristic of the Great Republic. Without disparagement to the United States, where I lived for nearly three years among many kind friends, nor to the dear Old Country, from which my heart has never been severed, I can truly say that my wife and I have formed the most genuine, helpful, and, we trust, lifelong friendships in the Colony of New Zealand. We felt, indeed, on quitting its shores for the old country that we were leaving home for a cold and strange foreign land ! To the observant Englishman whose heart is not sterilized by the moryue so condemned by our French neighbours, nor by the lust for gold, the 198 NEW ZEALAND. new life he leads in New Zealand derives a zest not only from its freedom, sincerity, and unconventionality, but from the many quaint and out-of-the-way characters he encounters, both in and out of " society." We must remember en passant that " Society" as well as society exists in New Zealand, though it is not quite as exclusive as in Belgravia. The passing-round-the- world traveller seldom sees actual New Zealand Society ; and when he writes his inevitable book (of which crime I am also guilty, no doubt, but not of what follows) is prone to fill in his hasty sketches with the colouring of fancy. What vivid pictures of " life in New Zealand " we should obtain, for example, from Mr. W. J. Prater, as quoted in the Otago Daily Times ! At Wellington he writes that he saw " a number of men wearing red jackets and bound together by a long chain, marching through the streets. They are guarded by several officials in uniform with rifles under their arms and revolvers by their side. This strange procession is the prisoners who have been at work on the roads, and are now returning home to dinner." The words I have italicized are embellishments of Mr. P.'s fancy, while the rest of the paragraph is accurate enough. At Waimate Mr. Prater visited " the humble abode of two wood- cutters," who were " cutting timber in the midst of bush containing black men and wild animals." " Before retiring to rest," he continues, "a huge fire was lit outside the house. This precaution was necessary in order to prevent wild animals and other disagreeable creatures from approaching too near. A sentry was on guard all night, armed with a rifle and revolver." All this is highly dramatic, but as there are no wild animals in the colony, I suppose that Mr. Prater, who elsewhere states that " travel has increased his knowledge of the world and its inhabitants," felt bound to spice his brochure with some adventure, even if imaginary. " Minor inaccuracies, such as the statement that ' Port Chalmers is generally named the Bluff,' we may let pass, but we draw the line at wild animals," concludes the Otago Times. SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 199 It is only when one settles down in the colony for some years that one gets into touch with the residents, and enters fully into the thoughts, ways, and actions of colonial life. What a chapter I could write on the eccentrics I have met in New Zealand ! What un- developed geniuses, what utter bores, what strange and queer men and women, still, (so far as I know), outside the Whau (or, as it now is politely named, Avondale) Asylum ! Perhaps some day I may give my reminis- cences, but meantime forbear. That there is a dis- tinction between life in Australia and life in New Zea- land is sufficiently shown by the difference between the scenes, events, and characters in Mrs. Campbell Praed's successful romances (" Policy and Passion," for instance) and those two typical New Zealand books, Miss Clara Cheeseman's "A Eolling Stone," and Lady Barker's " Station Life in New Zealand." The former clever novel contains admirably drawn scenes and illus- trations of genuine New Zealand life and character. Among others I can readily identify the " pro- fessor of music" and old Wasley, of Waitakerei, the lovely forest scenery so eloquently described by the authoress. In most parts of the book the scene is laid in towns, where, of course, the quaintest characters usually congregate. That too common event, a house on fire, is graphically described ; and the wreck of a steamer on the coast (the ill-fated Tararua, evidently), is told with all the skill of a practised novelist, though I am informed that this is a " maiden work." The latter book is a simple and graphic account of country life in New Zealand, in the Middle Island, which is made so attractive that it has induced many visitors to go out to the colony to try it. " Station life " has become more artificial and mechanical since Lady Barker's day. In a very democratic country such as New Zealand, where there is no aristocracy of birth or intellect to elevate society, where wealth, fluency of speech, and political influence seem to be the ruling forces in the community, the visitor might expect to find the entire social " tone " lower than at home. But 200 NEW ZEALAND. my long experience of all strata of the mixed multitude has led me to the conclusion, different to that of some writers on the subject, that the average level of the intellectual and social life of New Zealand is not only higher than that of the other Australasian colonies, but that it is attaining, as time goes on, a still higher elevation. This high level is certainly not promoted by the so-called " society papers " of the colony, rather the reverse ; the chief factors in this upward movement are the deepening and extending love of art, learning, literature, science, and the noble ambition, often fired by Sir George Grey's popular addresses, of founding a New Zealand nation upon the highest models of the age. For, though the hardheaded, pushing, shrewd, money- making trader rather than the man of intellect and culture, acquires the reins of political and social power, yet education, culture, refinement, and learning do make their influence felt even in this utilitarian community. No one can doubt that not only natural gifts, but the high culture, dignity of manner, and the friendship with the " men of light and leading " of the day, possessed by Sir George Grey, have made him the orator of New Zealand, and given him the power to sway public opinion by his utterances. But in his rush through this colony, (or a fringe of it, so to speak,) the traveller is not usually fortunate enough to meet personally the real " makers of the country," but, coming across loud-voiced, coarse men, who " blow," as the colonial word is, only about themselves, their achievements, and their district or town not the whole colony, else one might forgive them he hastily and inaccurately puts these blatant nouveaux riches into his book (libellus, as Horace would term it) as representatives of New Zealand Society. One has to live there for years to understand the com- ponent parts and characteristics of " Society " and society. For my own part I do not attempt to analyze it in these pages of plain talk ; it is kaleido- scopic to a degree ; but of social life and the forces that sway it I can give an accurate idea. The same ups and downs that occur in older countries take place in SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 201 New Zealand more often, more rapidly, and are less noticed. In the course of nine years' residence I have witnessed six changes of Government, four changes of Native Lands Court policy ; wholesale dismissals of Government officers ; the civil service remodelled ; and many unaccountable removals of head officials. In commercial life I have seen the Bank of New Zealand in great trouble ; two suicides through losses in land ; a tradesman become bankrupt three times; several merchants high in society move down from their grand mansions into cottages ; and finally, some of them leave the colony at their friends' expense. I have seen fashionable ladies left destitute widows, and doctors apparently doing a large practice die, leaving their families nearly paupers. " Grass widows " and " grass widowers " abound in New Zealand ; and deserted wives have a hard struggle. On the other hand I have seen a shabbily dressed mechanic who could not write his own name bequeath a large fortune to the most noble ends the relief of the poor and the aged. Viewing society as a whole, in any of the larger cities of New Zealand, I regard its elements as almost as mixed and shifting as those of a Western city in America. If an " old identity," a self-made man, is genuine, honest, and kindhearted, one soon learns to overlook mere breaches of pronunciation, of dress, and of manners. The new- comer, whether old, young, or middle-aged, should always make the acquaintance, and if possible the friendship, of some of these colonists. One thing is much to be admired in these rough diamonds, namely, their desire to give their children the highest education attainable in the colony ; and even in many cases to send their boys to an English university for a degree, and their girls to London for the season. Nothing could show more plainly than this custom of sending their children Home to finish their education, the parents' regard for the best interests of their family, and their deep appreciation of the value of that higher education which had been denied to them by the circumstances of their early life. 202 NEW ZEALAND. As regards getting into " Society," it is easier for a new comer in New Zealand than in the English provinces. To be able to play an instrument of music ; to dance or to sing passably (especially a comic song) ; to live in good style, and to wear good clothes these are the essentials for admission into " society." A newly arrived family occupying a good house will find many of the neighbours will call without any formal introduction. Such is the friendly colonial fashion. Neighbours in New Zealand are very kind and helpful in sickness, fire, accident, or any other domestic mis- fortune ; therefore an English lady though, if reserved and of retiring habits, she may be slightly startled at first at these colonial ways would do well to return the calls, for she will thus acquire a large number of acquaintances, among whom in due time real friends may be found. In the freedom of selection thus gained, affinities seek each other, heart becomes linked to heart, and " home sickness," from which Englishwomen suffer more than Englishmen, gradually disappears. In all my "globe-trotting," I have nowhere seen such an amount of lovely self-sacrifice ito others to the lonely stranger just arrived, it may be, dying of consumption ; or to the orphans and widows, many a time sent home by the subscriptions of those who could ill afford the money ; or in starting again an honest man who has failed in business as I have witnessed in New Zealand. The Kauri pine being the favourite building material for houses, fire is much dreaded, especially as kerosene lamps constitute the favourite means of illumination in the poorer dwellings. Perhaps the commonest cause is the placing of Taupiri coal ashes in a wooden box at night, and leaving it against the wall of the house or next to a wooden fence. The heat is retained in the ashes for an extraordinary length of time, and, if a wind is blowing, the box may take fire, and from it the house. Such events are common in towns, and necessitate prompt action on the part of neighbours to save each other's property. Lives are seldom lost, because the majority of houses have only one storey. I SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 203 remember one summer night a fine two-storey new house, standing opposite to mine in Symonds Street, being burnt to the ground in twenty minutes, the owner and his son barely escaping with their lives, the alarm not having been given promptly enough to the fire brigade, which is an excellent one. The next house, owned and occupied by a medical friend of mine, was badly scorched, and just escaped the same fate. We worked like Trojans, hauling out his pictures, furniture, &c., and two neighbours in deshabille kept their garden hose playing upon the walls and roof till the brigade appeared. Brick houses are thought to be damp in the winter, but a well- dried concrete house is both cool in summer, easily warmed up in winter, and proof against fire. In the matter of hospitality New Zealand scarcely displays that profuse open-handed treatment of visitors, whether provided with introductions or not, offered by Australia. As a rule, a New Zealander likes an introductory letter, wants to know something about the new-comer, and so on, as in England. But if he likes you at first sight being a thorough believer in his own judgment he will treat you handsomely even without introduction; and in the country districts especially you will find a hearty hospitality, such as one reads of in old-fashioned books. The old settler has witnessed the advent of so many " wastrels " and baneful adventurers under a respectable guise that he is, with reason, cautious in his reception of new-comers. It has been observed that climate, scenery, and food have a powerful influence in modifying the character of a race of men imported into, and not indigenous to, a country. I consider that the characteristics of the New Zealander of British, not Maori blood, have been altered to some degree by his environment. It may be but a whimsical notion, but I have noticed, while studying the psychological features of New Zealand-born youths, that some of the Maori tendencies have been imparted to them. A certain stoicism and unimpressiveness are noticeable about native-born New Zealanders. For instance, in visiting London they never seem astonished 204 NEW ZEALAND. at anything; nor can they " enthuse " over "Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's, the Tower, Windsor Castle, or any of the "show places." 1 cannot explain this, except on the above theory, although well acquainted with all shades and grades of colonial character. There may be nothing in the theory that an excessive meat diet conduces to hardness and even cruelty of disposition ; but it is a fact that the flesh-eating and cannibalistic Maori of the recent past was conspicuously callous and cruel, quite unlike his &m>-eating cousins, the Samoans and Hawaiians. Now, it is a striking coincidence that the adult Anglo-Saxon in New Zealand consumes an average amount of 200 to 250 Ibs. of meat in the course of a year, while the American is content with 120 Ibs. and Briton with 110 Ibs. The police-court records of New Zealand show the existence of a large and increasing class of evil-doers, termed " larrikins " or street-roughs, who are usually well fed on meat chiefly. The " larrikin " is an unfeeling, callous, and cruel fellow, more ready to rob, knock down, and otherwise maltreat a feeble old woman, defenceless girl, or drunken man than to tight a policeman. Corrupted and-incited to bad ways by a few rapscallions exported by their friends, or who had come as " shilling-a-month men " from London, New York, or San Francisco, these fellows are becoming a terror to all peaceful citizens. Yet there is in many of them a daring, an intelligence, and restless energy and ingenuity which might be turned to better ends. An excellent cure for " larrikinism " in the sea- port cities, might be found in the establishment of a training-ship like the Conway at Liverpool, for those who would take up the sea as a profession. Another " cure " would be the formation of a Cadet Corps of Volunteers in every town of a certain size, officered by educated men, kindly yet firm, who would drill them, enforce strict discipline ; yet become personally inte- rested in the rank and file; and give them all the recreation and freedom that is possible. I have seen several of these "larrikins," under the force of an SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND, 205 awakened conscience and of kindness, reform, and become useful and honourable citizens. Certain it is, that unless the misdirected activity of these lads be guided into harmless or beneficial channels, their lawlessness will become a real danger to the colony. I must now speak of the recreations which so diversify and brighten social life in this colony. Through its mild yet invigorating climate, its long summer, and the shortness of the customary hours of labour, New Zealand offers many facilities for open-air amusements. Therefore picnics, excursions, and riding- parties, drives, bowls, lawn-tennis, cricket, and football, are very much in vogue. In Auckland alone (with its suburbs) there were in 1888 no less than fifty clubs or associations for outdoor amusements 12 cricket- clubs, 22 football clubs, 10 yacht and boating clubs, and six bowling and tennis clubs. Some of these sports can be enjoyed all the year round in the North Island. Golfing is also played with great enthusiasm by the Scottish settlers in the Middle Island ; and in some winters, with a harder frost than usual, curling and skating may be enjoyed there. So great is the interest exhibited by the populace of the cities in the visit of a cricket or football team, that the mayor is importuned to grant a public holiday or half-holiday on the day of the match. To the employer of labour this practice means the loss of a day's wages and a day's work, while to the employed it means an extra holiday on full pay. As the colonial, postal, and bank holidays are already more numerous in New Zealand than at home, these extra holidays, sometimes falling upon mail -day, are not a little inconvenient to business men, who often pro- test against this growing custom. But the employes always carry the day, for the mayor is elected, as in the United States, by the general body of townspeople, and he seldom cares to risk unpopularity by refusing the holiday. Gymnasia are not numerous in the colony, but those that exist are of first-class quality and seem to be well patronised. 206 NEW ZEALAND. Volunteering is decidedly popular in the colony, although one sees complaints in the newspapers of the parsimony of the Government as to grants for outfit, capitation fees, and so forth. Now and then there is a little disturbance in a Corps, because there are more candidates for officers' commissions than can possibly be appointed. As the Royal holidays (Queen's Birth- day, &c.) and Easter week all fall in the warm season of the year, the volunteer corps have many opportu- nities of camp-training. Their physique is noticeably superior to that of the average British volunteer. Their numbers fluctuate considerably, because of the frequent removal of the privates from one part of the colony to another, to fulfil the requirements of business. The official return of the number of volunteers of all ranks on March 31, 1888, was as follows : North Island 3632 effectives, including cavalry, artillery, engineers, naval artillery, mounted in- fantry, and riflemen. Middle Island 4432 effectives, comprising the same division as those of the North Island, with the addition of 69 honorary reserve men. Total for the whole colony, 8064 effective volunteers. There were also at this date 2773 cadets enrolled. As there is a law of compulsory service in the militia, in case of invasion in the colony, these volunteers would in such event prove most useful cadres for the uudrilled recruits. The last two winters I spent in New Zealand were characterized by a mania for Sinking. Kinks were opened in every town and in every suburb. Despite bruises, fractures, dislocations, sprains, and the doubtful acquaintances made in these halls by young ladies, there seemed to be a fascination about the tedious circling round a floor on imitation skates, to the music of a noisy band, amidst dust of a pine -splintery nature, and in the heat of a crowded gas-lit room, against which no other amusement could compete. I once went into the Choral Hall, Auckland (used one evening a week for rinking) and the scene reminded me of Leland's h amorous lines upon cycling : SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 207 " The dimes that Breitmann doomble In learning for to ride, Vas oftener as de sand grains Dat rollen in der tide." The tumbling, indeed, at the rink seemed part of the fun, but it generally turned out no joke to the rinker who was undermost in the heap of sprawling, entangled humanity. The glamour of the roller-skate was that of the bicycle : "... The best of it, you bet, Vas that man could go so nicely Pefore he got oopset." In winter the indoor amusements of the New Zea- landers are as varied as they are in England. Clubs for chess, whist, Shakspeare reading, amateur acting, arid opera flourish. Choral and orchestral societies give their performances, and dinners, dances, evening parties, church socials, and entertainments of all kinds are numerous. At dinner parties there is less formal stiffness than in England ; men reveal their ideas more frankly and genially, and do not assume an unnatural frigidity, or a professional raconteur style along with their evening dress. After dinner there is always plenty of good music and singing in the drawing-room. Speaking of dinners, I may mention that there are excellent clubs in every large New Zealand town, where visitors may be entered as honorary members for one month. The cuisine of the very best New Zealand clubs stands well the closest criticism of a London gastronome, particularly when its best efforts are dis- played on the occasion of a banquet to some distin- guished visitor, or to a popular member who is leaving the city. There is nothing corresponding to the "London season " in New Zealand, unless it be that pale imita- tion of it called " The Wellington season " from April or May, till the end of July when the colonial Parlia- ment is in session. At that time an unusual bustle and gaiety prevail in the breezy city. " There is a sound 208 NEW ZEALAND. of revelry by night ; " the theatre is open every night with something attractive, the ministers give dinners, balls, and evening parties, and the Governor holds his levees. There is no particular time of the year which may be called the "lecture season," as with us in England. Professional lecturers take New Zealand in the course of their Antipodean tour, as it suits them. Occasionally an eminent man, like Joseph Cook, of Boston, delivers a lecture while the mail steamer stays in port ; and we are very glad to obtain a glimpse and a hearing of one whose works had stirred our hearts and intellects. But systematic lecture courses, well advertised and " paragraphed " in the newspapers, are usually successful at any time of the year. To really ensure large audiences night after night, lectures must be bright, terse, not too heavy in facts and figures, and relieved by music or lantern illustrations. I remember that R. A. Proctor, Archibald Forbes, G. A. Sala, and Major Dane achieved a complete success in New Zealand, the four large cities vying with each other to give the lecturer the largest audience. In the country districts settlers will strain their slender exchequer and ride long distances in stormy weather in order to hear some favourite preacher or lecturer ; and woe to him who gives them chaff for wheat ! Having occasionally lectiired on scientific and literary subjects " Plant Life," " Shakspeare and Euphuism," " Esoteric Buddhism," " Longfellow," " Tennyson's Lyrics," " The Sphygmograph," and others the writer can testify how intelligent and appreciative New Zealand audiences are. In five or ten minutes the speaker feels thoroughly en rapport with those he is addressing. Throughout New Zealand, especially in the North Island, excursions and picnics by sea and land are rendered easy and delightful by the great advantages of a long steady summer, good springs, and streams of pure water everywhere, and the plentiful choice of picturesque spots of country, absolutely free from SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 209 snakes, " wild animals," or poisonous insects (except the very rare Katipo, a small black spider marked by a red spot) ; from malaria ; and from shrubs which exhale poisonous emanations, like the Rhus diversiloba of California. Merry parties of young people are very seldom broken up by a thunderstorm, hail, or rain, as in Britain ; and the proximity of good excursion places to the towns in New Zealand does away with the necessity of a dull tiring journey home by rail, 'bus, or cab, which at Home often neutralises or mars the enjoyment of " a day in the country," or a " sniff of the briny." Many a time and oft have 1 longed to transport to dear old cloudy England year by year becoming more of a vast city some lovely bit of forest scenery the sky above of the purest blue, the " bush " below rich in evergreen trees and shrubs, interlaced with creeping and climbing plants, and carpeted with flowers in the centre a ferny dell, with a waterfall whose soothing music blends with the strange notes of the native birds the loud clear " ping " of the parson-bird (tui), the staccato cries of the tree-parrot (kaka) and the delicious three-note-chime of the bell-bird (Icorimalco). Scenes like these give inspiration to the local artists and form the chief charm and attraction of the local Art Exhibi- tions in the chief cities of the colony. But nature cannot be perfectly reproduced on canvas ; and I have enjoyed scenery in this colony which transcends in weird beauty anything that has come within my ex- perience in England, America, and Australia. The enjoyment of the country is enhanced, let me assure the reader who may think of visiting New Zea- land, by some knowledge of the art of photography. Nearly all the year round it is easy to obtain in that clear atmosphere well-defined photographs. I advise tourists to bring a camera of the latest type, and to take views as they pass along, which may be developed and printed by the photographers of the towns in which they make a stay. Thus a permanent and most inte- resting record of their New Zealand tour may be brought home. From experience I can state that there P 210 NEW ZEALAND. is a great fascination abont amateur photography, especially abont one's failures ! In the social life of the people of New Zealand, art and mnsic are becoming important elements ; and this is one of the good omens for the future of the nation. Excellent exhibitions of paintings are held annually in each of the four centres, Auckland, Wellington, Christ- church, and Dunedin. In Auckland, where the Society of Arts (of which I was one of the original committee) manage the annual exhibition, there are never less than from 250 to 300 original oil or water-colour pictures presented for public inspection. Some, in each year, are of great merit, and the sales are very satis- factory, in good times. Landscape, still life, and flowers are the predominant subjects, drawing from the live model having only very recently been introduced into the art school. The majority of the pictures are by " amateur " artists, many of whom add to their income by the sale of their works; and even of the "pro- fessional " artists in Auckland, most aie self-educated men whose innate genius and perseverance in the lines of study (nature chiefly) accessible to them have triumphed over deficiencies in their Art-training. Take, for example, not invidiously to other artists however, Mr. Charles Blomfield, who was originally a carpenter. He has created for himself a world-wide fame as the painter of the Pink and White sinter Terraces, which were destroyed, to our grief and dismay, in the terrible event described in chapter vii. The peculiarly in- tense blue of the water in the basins of both Terraces, and the roseate pink shading, like the hues of dawn, of the steps of the Pink Terrace have been caught by him in a marvellously accurate manner. The figure-drawing, too, for which he used to be so sharply criticized, has greatly improved, and the introduction of life into his landscapes adds just the feature that was wanting. Space forbids mention of Ball, Drummond, Sturtevant, and others whose artistic development has been most creditable. It is pleasant to see how cordially both professionals and amateurs work upon the committees SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 211 of these art societies, and to see pictures by both classes of artists hung impartially, according to their merits. Much encouragement of late has been given in Auck- land by the Society of Arts to Decorative Household Art, with the result of educing much latent talent and taste, and of brightening the colonial home by beauti- fying its interior. The number and variety of the native woods, so exquisite when inlaid and polished, further the latter desirable result. One family I knew intimately, whose home I never visited without finding some new object of art, the work of the young ladies of the house ; some painted panel or plaque ; some em- broidered bird or flower ; some hand-painted mirror or card ; exemplifying not only the taste but the originality of its artist. All the young people of this family could sing at sight, and each could play some instrument the violin being the favourite. No one becoming well acquainted with such Auckland homes could truthfully call the modern New Zealander a " Philistine." A sincere love for music is diffused throughout New Zealand. At the risk of being condemned by the Wellingtonians, Christchurchmen, and Dunedinites as a fanatical Aucklander, I have clearly pointed out in chapter iv. the pre-eminence of that city in the de- velopment of the divine art. What is needed now for its further culture is a complete Academy of Music in one of the large cities, and a musical festival (with- out prizes for brass-bands, and all that nonsense) to be held triennially in each of the four local capitals in rotation, managed by a standing committee of really musical amateurs, carefully selected from these cities. Nothing would give a greater impetus to choral and instrumental music than this move, which I commend to the present Governor of New Zealand, and to those in high places there, who love the " Art Divine " for its own sake. Singing from musical notation being now made a compulsory subject in the primary schools of the colony, the ear of a child is trained from an early age. The boy or girl who is really musical carries on the singing, p 2 212 NEW ZEALAND. first of Sankey's Hymns, and Christy's songs, and then by joining a choral society, where " singing at sight " is usually required, becomes familiarized with high-class modern music. Almost every cottage in New Zealand contains a piano or American organ. The choirs of churches and the organ-playing have received favour- able notice from most travellers. It has come to pass that amateur vocalists, soprani and bassi being more numerous than alti and tenori, are so numerous and of such good quality that a concert is looked upon as the readiest means of raising funds for religious or bene- volent purposes. But this " readiness to oblige " has another side. The services of amateur singers being always gratis, it is difficult for a resident professional vocalist to make a living in the same city. If he relies on teaching, there is not much encouragement in the fact brought to my knowledge by a music teacher in 1888, namely, that qualified professors of music were giving shilling lessons ! Probably terms may have improved, pari passu with the improvement in the times, since that date. The reader can thus understand that it is not difficult for the artizan in full work, who receives 8s. to 10s. a day, to be able to give at least one of his family a musical education. The tenor of the day becomes soon a spoiled favourite, so greatly is he sought after ; but I was amused to see that when he begins to put a price upon his voice his public engage- ments cease at least in Auckland. Elocution is not so much studied in New Zealand as music and painting ; but now and then a young man shows conspicuous talent as a reciter, and is then as much in request as the tenor above mentioned. Poetry (or rhyming) is much cultivated in New Zealand, the Auckland and Wellington newspapers generally overflowing with it. Sometimes a really poetic insight and power of expression is revealed. I wish that I had space to quote some of my clerical friend E. H. G.'s verses. His poetic genius must have slumbered until Auckland scenery and climate, and perhaps " the storms of fate " also awoke it. Passing SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 213 to another subject amateur science as a recreation the collections of coins, minerals, insects, shells, and so forth, amassed by diligent workers in science in the colony are astonishingly numerous and good. Captain Broun, of Howick near Auckland, has made the most complete collection of the Coleoptera in Australasia. The formation in 1887 of the Australian Association for the Advancement of Science gives just the impulse that is needed to unite these scattered students of science in one society, and thus utilize their detached researches for the good of the whole scientific world. The average New Zealand settler is very glad to avail himself of the facilities near him in the shape of Free Libraries, Mechanics' Institutes, Athenaeums, and similar institutions (of which there are three hundred in the colony), in order to supply the deficiencies of his early education and to keep his reading well up to date. Each monthly mail brings its shoal of English and American books and magazines, and the bookseller who is late or incorrect in delivering them to customers is much berated. Having in a humble way striven to promote the intellectual culture of Auckland by founding Magazine Clubs, an Essay and Debating Club (the " Kiwis ") and in conjunction with others the Athenaeum of Auckland, I am in a position to state that there is a real and increasing love for good literature, permanent and serial, and a desire for the full and free discussion of all questions of the day. Henry George's " Progress and Poverty " aroused public attention in New Zealand months before England was stirred up by its startling problems. I congratulate the reading public of the colonies in general, and of New Zealand in particular, that two eminent London publishers (Macmillan and Kegan Paul, Trench, & Co.) have brought out recently special colonial editions of their publications, so that good reading is brought within the reach of the many who cannot afford the English prices, and have no circulating library accessible. There exists out at the Antipodes a vigour of un- trammelled thought and a receptiveness of mind which, 214 NEW ZEALAND. while tending on the one hand to lead some men into unsettlement of religious faith, and into injurious practices, such as spiritualism, or wild mystic theories like Theosophy or Esoteric Buddhism, on the other hand encourages many weaker intellects to emerge from traditional grooves of thought into new truths, moral, mental, and spiritual, which they might never have found out in conventional England. There are also unconventional methods of preaching Christian truth, such as tent-missions, Salvation Army work, home Bible- readings, which are doing a grand work in New Zealand by counteracting the evil forces that exist in new countries where high wages, plenty of play-time, parental laxity, an independent spirit in children, free social intercourse among young people, and a stimu- lating climate, powerfully influence the social life of the community. Domestic life in New Zealand does not greatly differ from that in England, except that, good servants being scarce, and dear, the wife has to do more actual house- hold work than in the old country. Notwithstanding what I have to say later on regarding the drink question, I believe that, class for class, there is a smaller proportion of drunken husbands in the colony than in Great Britain. Very seldom do the newspapers report cases brought before the police courts of such brutal assaults on wives and children made by men under the influence of drink as one reads of every day in the English newspapers. Miss E. Katharine Bates, an observant traveller (whom I met in Auckland), goes so far as to assert in her book " Kaleidoscope, or Scenes from East tu West," that nowhere in her travels had she " seen S) many married couples who were happy as in this colony." Contrast this with E. "W. Payton's impression : " The normal condition of all housewives below that of the upper middle class is that of overworked house drudges. One result of this a sad breaking-down of character. Women drink a good deal on the quiet and this reacts on their temper, &c." SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 215 Mr. Payton must have derived his impressions from some pessimist. I, who in the course of my professional duties have gone into all classes of homes at all hours, have seen neither evidences of secret drinking nor of temper produced thereby. Probably the truth lies between these two extremely opposite impressions. This quotation leads me to point out plainly, but yet in all kindness, what are the conspicuous blemishes in the social life of New Zealand. I mean the prevalence of gambling, immoderate drinking, and excessive smoking. The totalisator, a betting machine highly favoured all over the colonies, is the cause of ruin of thousands of young men. By purchasing a ticket for five or ten shillings each "subscriber " stands a chance of winning a prize of from ten pounds to five hundred pounds. It is a bad thing to waste money in buying tickets which only draw blanks, but it is a worse thing to win a prize, for then the gambling spirit is thoroughly stimulated. I knew one fine young fellow who won the large prize of a certain totalisator (400 I think it was). He never did any good in the world afterwards. I believe the New Zealand Government charge the proprietor of such an instrument a fee for permission to use it in public. If this be true it is a disgrace to the Government; for the law of the colony against gambling is so strict now, that even a clergyman who gets up a bazaar or fancy fair has to ask the Colonial Secretary for special permission to hold either a " raffle " or an " Art Union." I hope I am inaccurately informed ; for this is indeed " straining at a gnat and swallowing a camel." No Government can put down verbal betting, of course, but it seems to me the bounden duty of the New Zealand Government to enact a law to make the totalisator or any similar machine as illegal as roulette and rouge-et-noir are already. It is a pity to see such innocent, healthful games, such as cricket, football, and tennis, made the occasion for betting, as they are made in the colonies. Naturally the horse-races, so beloved by the mass of the colonists, are not free from the 216 . NEW ZEALAND. " speelers " and other blacklegs who in England haunt these scenes and demoralise the old English sport. The pernicious and increasing habit of young lads beginning to smoke from the ages of nine or ten, is a vice which is destroying the health of hundreds. It cannot be met by prohibitive legislation, as a certain Legislative Councillor, now deceased, wished to meet it. Parents who themselves smoke should give it up as an example to their boys, and should sternly discourage any smoking by a boy until he is at least twenty years old. The crude and strong tobacco leaf now grown and manu- factured in New Zealand is deleterious to young smokers because it is so rich in nicotine. I shall give in chapter xii. definite reasons for these strong opinions. Unnecessary and immoderate drinking of liquor, chiefly in the form of "nipping," has grown into a serious social evil, nursed by the injurious colonial habit of treating friends and acquaintances to a drink at any hour of the day they may chance to meet. Standing treat all round goes by the singular term of " shouting " in Australasia. Punch satirized this habit in 1886, the Indian and Colonial Exhibition year, when he had a cartoon representing Britannia bidding " adieu to her Australian son, and his inexhaustible bottle." The waste of time, health, and money, in the colony caused by this custom is deplorable. Let me describe the usual incident. A. meets B. whom he has not seen for some days, perhaps. After the " How d'ye do ? " A. says, "Have a drink, old fellow?" "Don't care if I do," says B. All drinks being sixpence each, down goes a shilling. Then B. treats A. two shillings. C. comes in : " Hallo ! How d'ye do ? Will you join us ? " " Thanks, I don't mind." Drinks all round ; three-and- sixpence gone. Lastly C. " shouts " in return, perhaps even B. also,l and all retire. Thus five or seven shillings, and perhaps three quarters of an hour of the best business time in the day, have been consumed ; and none of the three men's heads are as clear for thought and calculation as they had been before the " shouting." I am glad to learn that this custom is on the decline SOCIAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 217 among educated people ; and that another baneful habit, that of sealing orders given to commercial travellers by a drink, is also going out of fashion. There are other good signs of the spread of total abstinence. There is an agitation in the School Boards for the adoption of Dr. B. W. Eichardson's Temperance Lesson Book in the primary schools ; the granting by law of Local Option over the whole colony ; the general substitution of tea and coffee for wine at afternoon calls and at evening parties ; and the interesting fact observed by ministers and clergymen that most of the native-born youth (European race) are either abstemious or total abstainers. Among the degrading elements of social life in the colony are those poor fellows who are kept in New Zealand by money remitted by their friends in England once a month, either direct to them or through trustees. They are called " remittance men," and are a source of trouble to everyone acquainted with them. Usually they drink away the money within a few days of its receipt and then go about borrowing until the next mail comes in. They " shout " for other drinkers of a lower grade who hang round the post-office, with that object in view. Among bushmen, shepherds, shearers, and others in the country the cashing of the half-yearly cheque for wages is made the occasion of a long drinking spree. When the poor wretch comes to his senses he generally finds himself lying on the road, robbed of everything except his clothes. This little process by which the publican is fattened and the bushman skinned is facetiously called " lambing down." The victim walks back to his employer's station, begging his meals on the way and a shakedown in a stable at night : to repeat the same folly at the end of another half-year. " Many a man," says E. W. Payton, " who can earn 3 and live comfortably upon 1 per week will drink away 2 and run into debt besides." It is calculated by some profound temperance mathe- matician that New Zealanders spend no less than three 218 NEW ZEALAND. millions per annum upon drink! I can scarcely credit this, but have not the figures by me to check it. There must, however, be some connection between an inor- dinate expenditure in alcohol and the comparatively large number of lunatics in New Zealand, for the records of the Asylums, which contained in 1886 over 1600 lunatics, show that alcoholism is the pre- vailing cause of mental disease. Sir Win. Fox, K.C.M.G., the eloquent and energetic President of the United Kingdom Alliance in New Zealand, has remarked that while people are horrified at the appalling description of 10,000 corpses that were found heaped up in one place' in the Johnstown, U.S., disaster, they are never shocked at the thought of the awful spectacle that would be presented were it pos- sible to bring together the scattered bodies of the thousands slain by drink in a single year. He states further that 1500 deaths every year one for each public-house in the colony are distinctly caused by drink in New Zealand. But after all the " Britain of the South " is a more sober country than its northern prototype and parent. In conclusion, I may sum up my impressions of social life in New Zealand by saying that it is freer, fuller, more friendly, more democratic, and more original in development, than it is at Home. Though the influence of the nearer United States is distinctly felt the New Zealanders are yet thoroughly English, with much of the Australian heartiness about them. Any honest, industrious, self-respecting man or woman can form a pleasant home among them, with facilities for cultivating the mind and the taste, and for acquiring a host of congenial friends. ( 219 ) CHAPTER XII. PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. Openings for Practice, and prospects of new comers Age at which to emigrate Outfit Registration Fees Clubs Working Expenses of Practice Diseases prevalent among the Maoris Native remedies Singular mode of reviving the apparently drowned Decrease of the natives still going on Letter from a missionary Diseases of the colonists Typhoid fever, its cause, prevention, and death-rate The Exanthemata Diphtheria maligna Poisoning from tinned meat and from Ptomaines Phthisis pulmonalis Cases arrested by climate of New Zealand Phthisis laryngea Bronchitis and Cynanche benefitted by Auckland climate Entozoa common Caries of teeth No Ague in the colony- Katipo-bite Diseases arising from Abuse of Alcohol and Tobacco Lunacy in New Zealand Vital statistics. IN view of the numerous letters I have received since my return to England from medical men, both those who are seeking openings for practice in the colonies, and those who want to know all about New Zealand as a Health Resort, I have thought it well to add this chapter in order to supply the definite information required. The non-medical reader will understand, therefore, that this chapter is written for the medical profession alone. First, let me inform my medical brethren that there are openings occurring from time to time in New Zealand. Second, that there are not now any " fortunes " to be made in practice as seems to have been the case twenty years since. Third, that even now, a thorough knowledge of one's profession, especially of surgery, steady hard work, and 220 NEW ZEALAND. a little more "push" than is advisable in the old country will meet with success. Of late years, so many medical men have settled in New Zealand for the sake of their own or their family's health, and so many young surgeons go out there with emigrant ships and on steamers, that our profession is becoming almost as overstocked there as it is at home, in proportion to the general population. In chapter i. I quoted the exact number (495) on the New Zealand register in 1887, but by the time this book reaches the reader the number will have increased to at least 530 ; besides a large number of unregistered practitioners who obtain a fair amount of support from the New Zealand public. A Medical Registration Act is now being promoted by the New Zealand Medical Association to extinguish unlicensed practice. There are usually more ready openings for new comers in the country districts of New Zealand than in the towns, where medical men are apt to linger, like the artizan-emigrants, in the hope of obtaining immediate and lucrative employment. In the leading newspapers one finds now and then an advertisement for a fully qualified doctor, at a fixed salary, or a guaranteed minimum income, capable of being improved and extended. Very often the house- surgeon of a District Hospital is allowed private prac- tice, so long as his routine duties are not interfered with. If the salary offered is under 300 per annum the probability is that he will be allowed private prac- tice ; if it is 300 or over, he will be debarred from it. Mining companies unite in employing a surgeon ; the salaries given varying from 300 to 500 per annum. The work is hard, and the exposure to weather and to risk of accident great, but a young, strong, energetic man, firm in the saddle and of steady nerve, will do well in such a position. In the towns the usual mode of starting in practice is to occupy the consulting-room generally attached to the shop of a chemist who is doing a large business, during certain hours of the day. The chemist has a PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 221 telephone, and the doctor's residence may be connected therewith ; the expense to the latter not exceeding 10 per year. In consideration of the prescriptions made up for patients, the chemist makes no charge for the use of his room. This system resembles the American "office -hour" custom, and it enables a medical man to live in one of the healthiest suburbs of the town, while still all the time accessible to messages. After some years, having become fully established in the confidence of the citizens, he can retire from the chemist's rooms where his place will be promptly taken by a fresh arrival and conduct his practice entirely at his own house. Were I again starting practice in any of the towns I know in New Zealand, I should rent consulting rooms in the main street ; have a man or boy there all day ; a telephone ; and live where I liked, but not too far for patients to walk from office to house, or vice versa. I should carefully select my consulting-hours to suit the habits of the locality, and should keep them punctually. Always make the fee for seeing you at the house or rooms less than for a visit. There is a difference in the elements of immediate success in a colonial and in a British community. The dull steady- plodding doctor in the former case does not get on so well as one with " dash and volubility." The doctors I knew who succeeded most rapidly in building up large practices were young men of pleasing manners, fluent talk, and social accomplishments, who married soon after their arrival into some well-known, perhaps wealthy local family, and became thoroughly identified with the place. They became almost at once colonials in freedom of manner and unconventionality of dress. On my return Home everything and everybody in the profession seemed formal and stiff in dress, etiquette, and behaviour. The proper age at which our colleagues may emigrate with the best chance of success I should place at from twenty-four to fifty. From the study of the careers of the twenty-four colleagues who settled in or near Auck- land after my arrival there in 1879, and from personal 222 NEW ZEALAND. knowledge of many others, I am of opinion that, whether . married or unmarried, a medical man after the age of fifty cannot adapt himself to colonial ways. There may be exceptions. If a doctor breaks down in health, yet not so much as to debar him from work, and needs the change to any particular colony, if his wife is healthy, adaptable, and hopeful it is the women who suffer most from nostalgia and if his family consists chiefly of strong healthy boys, then he may emigrate even after that age. But in New Zealand I have generally seen, in the competition of practice, that " the race is to the swift and the battle to the strong." Buying a practice, as is done in England, is almost unknown in New Zealand ; even purchasing a medical partnership is an uncertain speculation, for the " good- will" of a colonial practice cannot be purchased. Patients are generally "independent," as they call it, roaming from one doctor to another, believing devoutly in specialties, and regarding the newest arrival from the old country as the incarnation of all the learning and wisdom of medicine. Thus a New Zealand doctor always has patients leaving him, just as he has always patients coming to him a constant influx and efflux, without that strong " back-bone " to his practice, which the affection and respect of his clientele, won by long years of toil for them, and by clinical triumphs, secures for him in the Old Country. One of the best openings I have seen in good city practice is when a colonial practitioner is desirous of taking a six or twelve months' holiday in England. Then some new arrival takes his entire practice as locum tenens, with permission to remain in the same locality on the return of the owner ; and the loss of patients, if any, is chiefly on the latter's side. Colonial patients like their favourite doctors to visit the old country every few years, and acquire the newest ideas and inventions. The outfit for a medical emigrant should comprise a very complete set of surgical instruments, duplicates being taken of the more commonly used, a good library PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 223 of standard professional works ; a first-class microscope ; a few of the more costly drugs; and large coloured diagrams of the body for " Medical Talks/' which are much in request. A hammock for hot nights, and a strong tent for "camping-out" will be found useful. A powerful telescope is also an enjoyable companion in the clear atmosphere of New Zealand. When I left the colony there was no duty either upon surgical instruments or upon philosophical apparatus. Having selected his place of work, the new doctor must comply with the registration law of New Zealand, which commands him to show his diplomas to the Eegistrar-general, or the Provincial Eegistrar ; to pay a fee of 2 ; and to advertise in a daily news- paper his declaration of intention to practise, setting forth his full titles and qualifications. No title or qualification is registrable in New Zealand which is not recognized by the General Council of Medical Education and Eegistration of Great Britain. The average fees of a respectable practitioner in New Zealand city practice are equal to the best scale of those paid to the general practitioner of London, and are much better than those realised by our provincial colleagues. But, even for important operations, the Auckland fees were not equal, as they ought to be, to those paid to London surgeons. At the time I left, the fees seemed to be declining, in consequence of the commercial depression, and the unfair competition started by a doctor, who advertised " Advice and medicine at English rates," which meant giving for 2s. 6d. what all of us, correctly, charged five shillings for. One is always exposed to this sort of thing in the colonies. There is less booking, and a larger proportion of ready-money payments, than in England. Clubs pay the doctor on a higher scale than at home 1 per head per annum, or 15s. being a common rate. Even with the increased cost of drugs, caused by the heavy tariff, and the greater expense of surgical appliances, which are all imported, these payments re- munerate the club doctor better than the pittance of 224 NEW ZEALAND. four or five shillings he receives in England. I steadily refused clubs because I did not need them, but they are useful appointments to begin with. In estimating the working expenses of a New Zealand practice, one must take into account the hilly nature of the country, the long distance, and the badly kept roads. A riding hack must be kept for even a small practice, and an American or colonial buggy for a fair-sized area of work. In Auckland and its vicinity, walking for some hours as we sometimes do in an English town practice at the beginning, is not possible in summer ; cabs are twice as expensive as at home ; and omnibuses are neither cheap, comfortable, nor frequent enough to be useful to a doctor. A good buggy with hood, lamps, and all appurtenances costs 45 to 60 ; a good horse (ride or drive) varies from 16 to 30 ; harness about 8, and a coachman's wages average 30s. a week and all found ; or 2 5s. a week, if he finds his own board and lodging. The livery " jobbing " system, so much in vogue here, does not pay the doctor in New Zealand. Horse-feed is cheaper than in England, but carriage repairs are extravagantly dear. Collisions and runaways are more frequent speaking of the city where I practised than with us, from reckless driving by small boys in charge of horses they were powerless to check or guide, by drunken carters, and from the evasion of the city bye- law respecting carrying lamps after dark. To set up in good style, a new-comer must take a neat house in a first-class street, paying 80 to 100 rent ; keep two servants ; have a carriage, and a coachman who will also keep his garden trim ; have his own stable ; a telephone, and consulting-rooms " down town," either at a chemist's, or separately. " Self-supporting " dis- pensaries do not pay. The poorest working-man will pay his fee of 2s. Qd. or 3s. Gd. cheerfully, and is too proud to accept any of that pauperising in medical charity that we observe in England. On the whole a new doctor obtains a practice more quickly in the colonies than in the old country, but there is not the PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 225 same stability about it, nor is there anything of the warm personal attachment to the family doctor, as to a family friend, that exists at Home. Diseases Prevalent among tlie Maoris, Although the natives in New Zealand do not trouble the pakeha doctor very much, yet my colleagues will, I am sure, not consider space wasted if I mention some professionally interesting details concerning them. In the years intervening between 1847 and 1853, Surgeon A. S. Thompson, of the 58th Foot Regiment, then serving in New Zealand, made copious notes of the diseases he observed and heard of as existing among the Maoris. His valuable records were given to the medical world in the British and Foreign Medico- Chirurgical Review; and as much of the information he gives us holds true of the Maori of to-day, I con- dense the most important of his observations, adding uiy own experience, and what I learned from other medical men who have had more to do with the " noble savage " than I have. There was a greater variety and a larger amount of imported and endemic disease among the natives then than there is now ; though even now, as I shall show later on, there is a great deal that is quite preventible. Fevers were then common, of a continued, not inter- mittent type, constituting seventy-four cases in every 1000 cases of disease. Scarlet fever entered New Zealand in 1848, but did not spread. The natives have been always apt to catch infectious or contagious diseases, so this was a fortunate circumstance. Phthisis pulmonalis, following prolonged influenza, was not uncommon, the disease carrying off persons at all ages. Diseases of the skin, especially scabies, ringworm, and psoriasis, were then and are still common ; hence the discovery of one of the many healing powers of the liotoma hot springs. Scrofula was and is the bane of Q 226 NEW ZEALAND. the whole race, though not now so universal, thanks to better food, as in the early days. It was caused by breathing impure air in crowded huts; by indolent uncleanly habits ; by bad food ; and by intermarriage with near and scrofulous relations. In those days cases of elephantiasis, or Lepra gangrsenosa, a true kind of leprosy, were sometimes seen. It was caused, Dr. Thompson thought, by the habit of eating putrid maize and half-rotten potatoes. Diseases of the Hver are now more common among the natives than they were forty years since, because of the alcoholic drinks consumed. I once treated the famous chief Wahamii, of Otorohanga, Waikato, a faithful ally of ours, for a disease of this kind, in the cause of which an excessive use of animal food, blended with a too great indulgence in alcohol, in producing, in addition to the liver derangement, an inordinate obesity. He was the finest specimen of a warrior chief I have seen. The diseases epilepsy, apoplexy, chorea, cancer, and ague were unknown. Wounds used to heal quickly: the natives used various vegetable or earthy applications, the favourite being an ointment of red ochre. Parturition was easy and rapid. Rheumatism was and is very common, caused by the utter recklessness of the Maoris about the situation of their dwellings, drying their wet clothes or mats, and so on. Very early in the history of the Maoris the curative powers of the hot baths and springs in this disease were discovered. Syphilis exists, but not of a virulent type, in both sexes. Its local manifestations are removed sooner by the hot mud-baths than by medicinal treatment. Melancholia, with a tendency to suicide, from the superstition of being bewitched, was common, and even now exists, though much more rarely, owing to the general spread of Christianity through the whole nation. The custom of tapu (chapter iii., p. 48) had certainly its sanitary uses, which unfortunately have not been PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 227 replaced, now that tapu is out of fashion, by that "cleanliness which is next unto godliness" which should be characteristic of a Christianized nation. The Maori of old time, believing that all sickness was caused by an atua or evil spirit entering the body, used to employ all kinds of violent measures to the sick man, in order to drive it out, such as rolling him for hours on the ground, placing baskets of stones on his abdomen, and so forth ; these well-meant exertions more often killing than curing the patient. But their mode of shampooing- the same as the lorni* lomi of the Hawaiian, (the basis of modern massage) ; their artificial steam-baths; and their extraordinary but successful method of resuscitating an apparently drowned person by holding him head downwards over the smoke of a fire, and then pouring hot water down his throat as soon as he could swallow all these were useful in disease. Being intelligent observers of the properties of native plants, the Maoris used various parts of the following shrubs in diseases and injuries : these may give some hints to those who are con- tinually seeking additions to the Materia Medica. Mesembryanthemum (Ficoidese) was used as a poultice for boils. Phormium tenax, the native flax, or more properly hemp (see p. 189), nat. ord. Liliaceae. The leaf was used for bandaging wounds ; the root and the gummy exudation for disorders of menstruation. Podocarpus, or Kaliikatea, the white Pine (Coniferib), a decoction of the leaves for urinary complaints. Piper excelsus, or Kawakawa (Piperaceae) for cuts, wounds, skin diseases, gonorrhoea, and in the hot steam baths. Dysoxylum spectabile, or Kohekohe (Meliacese) an infusion of the leaves to stop the secretion of milk in the breasts. Veronica, or Koromiko (Scrophulariacese) bruised leaves as poultice for ulcers. Cyathea, or tree-fern (Filicinere) the bruised pith as a poultice for swollen feet and for sore eyes. Q 2 228 NEW ZEALAND. Sophora tetraptera, or Kowhai (Leguniinosse) the inner bark in Scabies. \ Dacrydium cupressinum, or Eimu (Coniferse) in- fusion of the bark for ulcers and wounds, Coriaria, or Tutu (Coriarise) leaves which are poi- sonous to cattle, and the leave 3 and twigs of the Leptospermum ericoides, or Manuka (Myrtacese), are used effectually to cure dysentery. Some of these therapeutic applications of native plants have been tried and confirmed by local practi- tioners. The Veronica seems scarcely ever to fail in relieving dysentery and diarrhoea. Another plant, the Brachyglottis repens, or Puka-puka, of the Nat. Ord. Compositse, has been found useful in Bright's disease of the kidneys and in " neuralgic " rheumatism. A curious kind of slow poisoning among the Maori old men and women by the Karaka berry is sometimes found. Its characteristic feature is a spastic con- traction of the flexor muscles of the arms and legs, not of the trunk muscles. There are no twitches or spasms. This phenomenon is produced by the imperfect cooking of the bean or berry whose dark inner skin (next to the albumen of the seed) contains a toxic alkaloid named Icarakine. If this skin is perfectly removed by long maceration in water, the berry is not only harmless but forms a nutritious food. I have not heard of any disease arising from the habit of the Maoris of eating fern-root, the pith of the Nikau, or cabbage palm, or the fungus, Hirncola. Poisoning by the bite of the Katipo, a small black spider marked by a red cross on its back, which haunts the clumps of grass near the sea, is more common among and more dreaded by the Maoris than by the white people. One case of chronic blood-poisoning by the bite of this insect the only venomous one with tne exception of the centipede, in New Zealanu came under my observation. A half-caste woman, aged about thirty-eight, consulted me for disease of the cartilaginous septum narium. She stated that two years before her visit to me a Katipo had bitten her PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 229 hand ; the usual acute inflammation followed, and after the hand had completely healed, the mucous lining of the nostrils became ulcerated. This process went on deeper and deeper until the bones began to slough away. There being no history or visible trace of syphilis, I concluded that this sequela of Katipo bite, quite a rare one, was probably due to a metastasis of the blood-poison to the nose, acting virulently upon a scrofulous constitution. The immunity enjoyed by these islands from snakes and all kinds of poisonous insects except the Katipo and centipede is remarkable when we consider their proximity to Tasmania, Australia, and New Guinea, which are all characterized by these plagues. The children of half-castes frequently die of tuber- cular diseases. Dr. Thompson gives in his articles an interesting table comparing the mortality in various diseases among the Maoris of his day with the death- rate in Sheffield (as a specimen of a large densely populated English town), taking as a standard of com- parison the register of the Sheffield General Infirmary for twenty-two years previous to 1852. We can thus perceive that in five classes of disease the death-rate among the Maoris was much heavier than that of one of the most unhealthy and crowded towns in our country. In one thousand deaths from all causes there were Sheffield. Maoris of New Zealand. From n V )) > 59 119 45 109 71 82 191 70 169 119 Rheumatism . Diseases of th > Stomach and Bowels . . In chapter iii. I have summarized the Registrar- general's report on the causes of the decrease of the 230 NEW ZEALAND. native race. Since that was written I have received an interesting letter from my friend who, though a settler up in the north, has become a volunteer missionary among the Maoris of the Pakanae district, which gives valuable information on this point, which I will condense for the reader. Mr. Fell says that one prominent cause of the decline of the race is traceable to too early marriages, which are generally barren. He mentions one instance of a Maori bride of twelve and a bridegroom of twenty. In readjusting the ownership of a block of ground at Pakanae, formerly held by a hapu of 1000 adults, only fifty adult Maori owners could be found, and of these a large number were childless. " One principal reason," writes Mr. Fell, "of the very great mortality is from their sleeping on the ground all the year round. All whom we have met with, except the very young children, suffer from asthma, and the men especially seem to suffer from chest complaints and die young. We have one [Maori] now felling the bush for us ; he has pitched the tent we have lent him on the flat, and he sleeps on green ti-tree. . . . They never change their wet clothes." Contemporary evidence thus proves that the habits of the Maoris of old are continued to the present day, and are conducing to the extinction of the race. Diseases Prevalent among the Colonists. 1. Acute Diseases. Of these the most common is enteric or typhoid fever, arising from the insanitary state of most of the New Zealand cities and towns. Settlers build where .and how they like, up and down the hills and along the valleys, which often constitute the natural features of a town site. The owner of an allotment may pack as many houses as he chooses upon it provided he makes what is euphemistically called " an earth closet " for each building. The lower classes of inhabitants are not very particular as to where the gleanings of the kitchen are deposited. PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 231 During the long hot summer of North New Zealand the decomposition of this refuse goes on, and when the first rains of winter fall there is some years an outbreak of typhoid fever lasting several months. It seems as if the bacteria (or other inateries morbi) were liberated from their nidus by the rain, and washed into the drinking water, or, in some way, found access into the bodies of their numerous victims, generally the young and apparently strong, of from fifteen to forty years of age. As a typhoid endemic has a knack of seizing now and then upon well-known families of ' good position, this plague, so preventible by proper drainage and good sanitation, every year excites much public outcry. But somehow corporations look more to the amount of their rates than to the health of the citizens, and little is done effectually to stop this drawback to life and health. In 1887 my friend, Dr. G. Toussaint Girdler, in an able paper read before the Athenaeum Society of Auckland on the Sanitary Condition of that City proved that out of six thousand inhabited houses within the city limits only six hundred were provided with water-closets, the rest having merely the " earth- closets," so called because the contractor who cleaned them out was supposed to supply fresh dry earth each time but did not ! He showed that if even the existing Municipal Regulations were made compulsory, and not merely permissive, many of the nuisances which generated diseases would be prevented, much sickness and many valuable lives saved. The reading of this Paper excited much attention, more especially as during the very time that typhoid fever was prevalent the city council of Auckland had, under the pretext of economy, reduced their sanitary staff, which was already too small in number. More efficient modes of collecting the refuse and of disposing of the sewage were earnestly discussed at a second meeting of the Athemeum; and the Mayor (A. E. T. Devore, Esq.) expressed himself in favour of a kiln, such as is used with excellent results in Manchester and Salford, where all the garbage is burnt up, and the products 232 NEW ZEALAND. utilized. There has been a permanent improvement in the sanitary condition of Auckland since, and a lessening of the number of cases of typhoid. The tiatness of some cities, such as Christchurch, does not admit of a perfect system of underground drainage, but Auckland is eminently adapted for it. There seems to me no reason why both typhoid fever and diphtheria should not, by efficient sanitation, (which demands, unfortunately for the colony's position, a large expenditure), be banished from New Zealand. Although the highest mortality from typhoid fever in Auckland, where during the last two " seasons " it has averaged fifteen to twenty-two per cent., is much lower than the ordinary mortality from that disease in Melbourne and Sydney, the death-rate was far from encouraging. During five years of my practice I treated forty cases of typhoid fever, of which I lost only one a boy who died of a cerebral compli- cation five days after I was called in. There are few private nurses in the New Zealand towns whu are properly trained to nurse fever patients, and this is a great difficulty in the way of clinical success. I have never seen a case of true typhus fever in New Zealand, a fact which thus far corroborates the theory that typhus is the product of starvation, want of pure air, and overcrowding. No case of Asiatic cholera has been reported so far as my research extends in New Zealand, though cases of European cholera occur every summer, when the heat is unusually high and prolonged. The infectious Exanthemata are of a mild type in New Zealand. Although the compulsory clauses of the New Zealand Vaccination Act seem to be a dea^ letter, Small-pox has been so well excluded from the islands that it does not appear at all as a cause of death in the mortality records of the quinquennial period, 1881-1886. The genial climate permits of more complete ventilation of the sick-room during a much greater portion of the year than is possible in England, and this advantage limits the risk of PROFESSIONAL EXPEDIENCES. 233 contagion or infection ; otherwise the wooden houses are certainly not so easily well disinfected as our brick and stone houses here. Many children grow up to adult age without ever having caught any of the Exanthemata. Once during my residenae there was a tremendous "scare" about small-pox, a steamer having a case on board brought from San Francisco, if I remember aright. All the passengers for Auckland were landed at Motuihi, the island where the quarantine station, a Government building, was situated. A rush to the doctors for vaccination took place. Having secured some pure and fresh calf lymph through the praiseworthy exertions of my energetic chemist, I vaccinated about sixty-six cases during that year with perfect satis- faction to the parents, some of whom held anti- vaccination opinions, and to the adults, whose con- stitutions all showed the need of re-vaccination by the vigorous way in which they "took." The gratifying results of the fright were, (1) that no case of small-pox occurred on shore ; (2) that the Motuihi station, then dirty and dilapidated, because so long unused, was cleaned, repaired, and made fairly decent for human beings. Croup and Diphtheria are deplorably common in the towns of the colony ; the former from the storms, rain, and high winds that occur, and the latter from mias- matic emanations from the animal and vegetable refuse heaps above described (p. 231). I remember one very sad instance of how diphtheria may be contracted from noxious emanations without any contact with previous cases of the disease. A fine little girl who, with her brother, had been playing about a certain street in the west of Auckland, and hovering about a ditch which had been cut into the clay subsoil for the purpose of laying gas-pipes, succumbed in a few days to malignant diphtheria. A few days after her death the brother showed this disease in the same intensity, and died after all that medical skill and attention could do for him, thus leaving the parents childless. That heaps of 234 NEW ZEALAND. decomposing garbage will generate this disease I had a most painful experience in my own family when my son was very nearly carried off by this fell destroyer. I had no control whatever over the use of the vacant unfenced allotment next to my house where the miasma had been generated. I am not able to obtain comparative statistics of Diphtheria in the other colonies ; but it is a fact that during the five years preceding the census of 1886, the rate of mortality in New Zealand proceeding from specific febrile, and zymotic diseases was considerably less than in England and in the Australian colonies. Cases of irritant poisoning, sometimes fatal, caused by eating canned meat, half-decomposed or con- taminated by solder, are not uncommon. A sad case of poisoning by the formation of ptomaines in twice- cooked canned meat occurred in Parnell. Three lives of Maori clergymen were lost, and three white people made dangerously ill. Acute rheumatism, pneumonia, and pleurisy seldom reach the same intensity or duration that they exhibit in Britain. 2. Chronic Diseases. The most important class of chronic diseases of which I must write are Pulmonary diseases, for the relief of which so many invalids come out from England to this colony. In chapters ii., iv., and v. I have given useful suggestions as to the suitability or unsuitability of certain Climatic Zones and localities for various certain chest complaints, and these may now be supplemented by some general observations deduced from experience on the subject. A study of those three chapters, of the maps accompanying this volume, and of the temperatures I have quoted in the text, will enable consulting physicians to indicate to their chest patients what part of New Zealand they should try on arrival, and what parts they should avoid. In general terms the north of Auckland district, and a few spots on the highest ranges of the hills -near Auckland city, offer in winter the best climate in New Zealand for real tubercular consumption PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 235 of the lungs or larynx, and for that very large class of cases which are chronic pneumonias in tuberculous or strumous constitutions, of which most of those cases benefitted or cured by sea voyages, or changes of climate, consist. If a poitrinaire, in whom phthisis pulmonalis has not advanced far into the second stage, will go out by the Cape to New Zealand, so as to arrive there in October or November, he will enjoy the glorious summer weather, and improve steadily, if he conducts himself carefully, until the middle of April of the next year, when the rains will have begun. He will be able to remain in Auckland, Taranaki, or Napier later in April or even into May than he would in other cities further south. In April or May he can sail away to Norfolk Island or to the Fijis, where he may bask in genial sunshine until summer once more returns to New Zealand. I knew a clergyman in Auckland who was in good health, fulfilling the duties of an important parish, married, with three healthy children, who owes his life to the local climate, having landed there fourteen years since with a cavity in one of his lungs. Another favourable case was that of a bank manager who came out from England about ten years since with phthisis pulmonalis in both lungs and frequent hsemo- ptysis. He steadily improved in Auckland, and became stout and strong. For five years he remained in good health, but the bank's arrangements compelling him to move off to Christchurch, the extremes of that climate disagreed with him ; his old disease broke out again, and he was a dead man in less than two years (I believe) from the time he left the northern city. None of his friends, myself included, doubted that he would have survived many years had he been able to remain in Auckland or North of it. A third case in which I felt much interest, though I had very little to do with its treatment, was that of a clergyman who came out to get a cure of a " weak throat " in fact, " Dysphonia Clericorum." At first the NEW ZEALAND. voice improved in a locality near Auckland, but after two winters, during which he felt obliged to do clerical duty, the constant use of his voice and the colds he occasionally took developed that terrible disease, real phthisis laryngea. Although the ravages of this disease in the larynx may be delayed by a pure, dry, warm air such as that of Egypt or Western Australia, I have never yet known a case recover. One patient I knew was kept alive for four years by the dry climate of California, but eventually he succumbed. Very often it has been noticed by medical men that the consumptive patient who does not improve under treatment in a certain part of the city, will begin to improve if he moves his residence on to a different subsoil say, from off clay to scoria ground. I may mention one homely matter which is often neglected. A chest invalid should always bring flannel under- clothing of two thicknesses, one for the winter and one for the summer, so that wool may be next the skin all the year round. Even the hottest days in the northern summer of New Zealand are followed by cool evenings, which visitors enjoy seated under the verandahs outside the house, when frequently chills are contracted by sensitive and too thinly clad invalids. Most practitioners of long experience in New Zealand have noticed the singular fact that, though phthisical sufferers from colder climates derive much benefit, even sometimes a cure, from that genial air, yet when this disease arises in a native-born New Zealander, it generally carries the victim off in a short time. I know one case in which only six months elapsed from the first manifestations of the disease (true phthisis) until death. In such cases the best change of climate is to the Darling Downs of Queensland, the nearest approach to Davos or St. Moritz that exists in Australasia. This health resort is also beneficial to " clerical sore throat." In estimating the mortality from phthisis pulmonalis in the records of the New Zealand Registrar-general, one must remember that the death-rate is largely PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 2o7 increased by the number of persons who arrive in the colony far advanced in the disease sometimes even in the third stage ; or with a very strong predisposition to consumption. In 1886, out of the total deaths from phthisis in New Zealand eleven per cent, were persons who had not resided three years in the colony. Yet with even the addition from this source, the death-rate from phthisis among the colonists in New Zealand is much less than in England, or than in any of the Australian colonies, except Western Australia. Invalids suffering from recurrent attacks of bron- chitis, chronic enlargement of the tonsils, and ordinary follicular sore-throat improve very much in the North Island. On the other hand, very few cases of asthma seem to do well in New Zealand. Apparently the all- pervading marine dampness of the atmosphere is the cause of this unsuitability. Bronchial asthma, however, I have known to be very much benefited by residence near the sea. Diseases caused by Entozoa, especially among young children, are much more common in New Zealand than at home. Tainia solium, Ascaris lumbricoides, and Ascaris vermicularis are found in both adults and children. Even infants at the breast have been known to pass Ascarides. Hydatids of the liver, caused by the echinococcus of the sheep passing into the human body, is a common disease in Australia, but rare in New Zealand. Some- times, however, cases are reported from the Middle Island, arising from the careless use of unwholesome mutton as food. The risk of acquiring this parasitic disease is the greater from the constant use of mutton alone for " the hands " at the sheep stations for many months consecutively. The frequent decay of teeth in adults, young children, and even in infants cutting their milk set, in Auckland arrests the attention of newly arrived medical men. This premature decay is due to the too complete absence of lime from the water supply. The rain water 238 NEW ZEALAND. percolates through scoria and clay (chiefly the former) down to the springs from which the city water is taken, thus reaching the consumer in an almost too pure condition. The deeper springs which assist in the water supply are also almost chemically free from calcareous salts, therefore there is not pabulum enough supplied to the human frame for the efficient growth of the teeth and bones before the age at which animal food can be consumed and assimilated. Even the nursing mother's breast-milk is thus rendered deficient in this important ingredient. The only remedy is to give lime-water to the children, or to place a small lump of unslaked lime in the cistern or family filter. The latter is too rarely used in colonial households. There is a good opening in business for a cheap and good domestic filter in New Zealand, if the sale were briskly pushed. The plague of entozoa would be thereby much diminished. There are no malarial fevers in the colony ; hydro- phobia is unknown ; calculus and sunstroke are rare. 3. Diseases arising directly or indirectly from the abuse (not the moderate use) of alcoholic liquors and tobacco deserve notice here. Although the city wherein I practised is not more intemperate than the other cities and towns of New Zealand, nor is the colony less sober, as a whole, than any or all of the other Australasian colonies, yet in a work designed to advance the best interests of the country I feel bound to raise a warning voice against these vices of habit, which engender disease. The habit of " nipping," upon which I have already adversely commented, is proved by statistics collected by Dr. George Hurley, in an able paper written for the Provincial Medical Journal, to largely increase the mortality from liver diseases (and from other diseases) among the classes of men most exposed to this tempta- tion in the old country. Among brewers, publicans, vintners, commercial travellers, barmen, and waiters, the death-rate from liver diseases is six times greater than it is among those not so apt to "nip;" for PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 239 example, maltsters, farmers, drapers, printers, and gardeners. I regret that I have not space for his full table of death-rates: it is novel and instructive. It tallies with my colonial experience ; and I can further add that among merchants, tradesmen, lawyers' clerks, and warehousemen there is a terrible amount of liver disease in the colony, quite preventible if this injurious habit were dropped. Open drunkenness seldom over- takes the victims of " nipping," but I have, alas ! seen many of them, often good and useful citizens of Auckland, die from cirrhosis of the liver, Bright's disease, or congestion of the brain, before they had lived out their regular " expectation of life." The sudden deaths by accident and suicide which seem so common in New Zealand are often cases in which an intoxicated man attempts to drive or ride along a precipitous road ; to cross a swollen river ; or to enter or leave a train while in motion ; or some rash action of that kind ; while suicides are frequently the result of the awful depression following a prolonged drinking bout. One must, in permitting, advising, or refusing alchoholic stimulants to patients, take into account the difference in the climatic zones of New Zealand. The only districts of New Zealand where I conceive whisky the newest Scotch is the favourite brand to be harmless are Otago, Southland, and West- land, all in the Middle Island. But in the more northern districts of the Middle and in the whole of the warmer North Island, brandy and whisky (however permissible in cases of illness) should be avoided in health. Of the two kinds of spirits, pure French brandy, if you can get it, is the less injurious. It is to be regretted that the very high duty upon Australian light wines, lager beer, and claret so enhances their cost as to place them beyond the means of any but the well-to-do. If ever North New Zealand becomes a wine-drinking country, after producing and maturing wholesome wine, which could be done, drunkenness will almost disappear, and the diseases I have mentioned will no longer form part of the Registrar's returns. 240 NEW ZEALAND. I have never attended a native-born colonist for Delirium Tremens, a fact corroborative of the state- ment made on p. 217 (chapter xi.). My medical readers may note that I found it possible to bring through successfully many cases of typhoid fever without alcoholic stimulants, and, when these are absolutely necessary, it was found sufficient to give half the quantity usually ordered in similar cases in England. And so in the case of most acute diseases. When a man is thirsty in the summer, iced " lemon squash " or Zoedone will satisfy the craving. The abuse of tobacco by adults and the premature indulgence in smoking by young lads bring on or aggravate a number of diseases and derangements, which I must here touch upon, in order to explain my strong condemnation of these habits in the previous chapter. To some persons of a lymphatic temperament tobacco may really be a sedative, but to most people it is an excitant at first and a depressant afterwards. In the clear stimulating air of New Zealand no artificial stimulus to the nervous system is necessary. In summer smoking is apt to excite a thirst which water alone does not slake. My professional confreres know as well as I do, that premature or immoderate smoking produces the following derangements of the human economy : 1st. Impairment of the primary digestion, caused by the excessive flow of saliva induced. 2nd. A chronic nervousness and irritability, with irregular action of the heart, often accompanied with insomnia, or with a minor degree of amaurosis. 3rd. Anaemia, with cardiac palpitation, due to the power nicotine possesses of preventing the transforma- tion of the pale into the red corpuscles of the blood. 4th. An insidious disease of the kidneys, with albu- minuria, often undetected until far advanced, or ascribed to other causes. But I do not condemn the moderate use of tobacco in the winters of New Zealand. It is indeed a " solace " to the solitary miner, to the shepherd and to PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 241 the bushman. In the North Island smokers would do well to use the lightest " twist " or " returns ; " to smoke only after a meal; and where possible in the open air. Having alluded to the large amount of lunacy in New Zealand in chapter xi. I will now complete my refer- ence to the subject by giving a comparative table of statistics, which, so far as the year 1885 is concerned, places New Zealand in her right place as regards the prevalence of Mental Disease, as compared with other countries. I quote this table because an erroneous notion is abroad that there is more Mental Disease in this colony than in any other south of the line. It must be borne in mind, that in the official returns for New Zealand are, every year, included several persons who have been shipped off from England to the colony by their relatives, in order to get rid of them, and so throw the burden of their support upon the colony. Most of these lunatics improve during the sea voyage, but become more insane than ever after a month or two in the exciting or stimulating air of New Zealand. They are then taken charge of by the Government, and so troublesome had this practice become that some years since the Colonial Government got an Act passed through Parliament designed to put a stop to it. At the close of 1885 : Victoria had one lunatic for 297 of the general population. England and Wales , 339 New South Wales New Zealand Queensland South Australia 374 401 416 439 We thus perceive that New Zealand, dead-weighted as it is by the unfair English practice mentioned above, stands only fourth on the list, ranking below Victoria, England and Wales, and New South Wales as to the number of lunatics in proportion to the general mass of the people. I do not consider that the climate of New Zealand in any way conduces to the development of B NEW ZEALAND. latent mental disease; but if that disease is already manifested, it may become aggravated there. Did space permit of its insertion in this already too lengthy ^section, I could show, by a comparative table of the vital statistics of all the Australasian colonies, that New Zealand is favoured with the highest birth-rate and the lowest death-rate taking a long series of years of them all. But, failing this, by merely quoting the Vital Sta- tistics of the sixteen largest New Zealand towns, for the few scattered months, which happen to be at hand, I can easily demonstrate that the natural increase, with- out any accretion from surplus of immigrants over emigrants, is remarkable. The viability of children born in New Zealand is greater than of those born in the more tropical Australian colonies. The sixteen large towns from which these figures are summarised are Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Thames, New Plymouth, Napier, Wanganui, Nelson, Sydenham, Lyttelton, Timaru, Oamaru, Hoki- tika, Caversham, and Invercargill. In these towns there were registered the following number of births and deaths, a monthly record being furnished by the Kegistrar-general : Births. Deaths. Natural increase. In October, 1883 562 200 362 November, 1883 .... July, 1884 . 468 506 135 177 333 329 511 201 310 November, 1884 .... December, 1884 .... January, 1885 467 465 501 128 165 189 339 300 312 December, 1885 .... 420 188 232 3900 1383 2517 PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCES. 243 . The natural net increase in these sixteen towns for the eight scattered months quoted amounts to 2517, being some compensation for the falling-off in immi- gration during 1884 and 1885. There is no reason why an emigrant, when he settles in New Zealand should not live to a green old age, if he avoids steadily the injurious habits I have pointed out as the source of acquired disease, and lives on whole- some properly cooked food and purified water. In my experience New Zealand is far beyond California for health and enjoyment which is saying a good deal, for the latter is one of the most delightful countries in the world for travel or residence. I trust that both my medical and non-medical readers will agree with me that there is no place like NEW ZEALAND FOB THE EMIGRANT, INVALID, AND TOUEIST. 244 NEW ZEALAND. TABLE OF DISTANCES In nautical miles. OCEAN DISTANCES: Miles - Plymouth to Lyttelton .... 11 , 740 Port Chalmers . . . . 11,930 Wellington . . . 11,915 Auckland . . . . 12,479 Liverpool to Auckland via United States . 12,210 Suez . . . 12,706 Cape of Good Hope 14,073 San Francisco to Auckland .... 5,910 New York to Auckland via Cape Horn . . 11,860 Panama Canal . 8,940 INTER-COLONIAL : Melbourne to the Bluff Harbour . . .1,200 Wellington . . . .1,479 Sydney to Wellington . . . . .1,239 Auckland .... . 1,281 Fiji to Auckland . . . . .1,172 Samoa to Auckland .... . 1,950 NEW ZEALAND : Auckland to Russell . Gisborne . Wellington Gisborne to Napier Napier to Wellington . Wellington to Lyttelton Port Chalmers Picton . Nelson . New Plymouth Port Chalmers to the Bluff . Onehanga to New Plymouth New Plymouth to Nelson Nelson to Picton Westport . Weatport to Greymouth Greymouth to Hokitika Hokitika to Milford . Milford Sound to the Bluff . 128 301 564 86 203 175 332 53 101 172 132 135 148 85 160 63 20 190 210 INDEX. ABERDEEN, Earl, and Countess of, 66 Acclimatization in N.Z., 71, 72 Academy of Music, An, 211 Acheron Passage, 113, 114 Advice to Emigrants, 6-10, 12, 148 Agricultural Land, 144 Agriculture, School of, 162 Akaroa, 33 Akiteo Spring, 77 Albertlaud Settlement, 155 Alcoholic Liquors, Abuse of, 216, 238-240 Alderton, George E., 21 Aldis, Professor, 161 Alpine Plateau, The, 20, 37, 38 Amateur Pho:ograp!iy, 209 Science, 213 Vocalists, 212 Amberley, 77 American Organs, 212 Amuri, 78 Analyses of Springs, 78, 81, 82, 87, 88, 90, 91, 92, 93 Analysis of Volcanic Ash, 128 Anglo-American Unions, 3 Anglo-Saxon Race, The, 1, 3, 56 Aorangi, (Mt. Cook), 33 Apero, Capt., 103, 108 Arawa Tribe, The, 125 Arthur River, 118 Art Exhibitions, Local, 209 Arts, Society of, 68, 210, 211 Asbestos, Discovery of, 113 Asthmatic Complaints, 37, 86, 237 Aspiring Mount, 109, 117 Assignees in Bankruptcy, 175 Asylums, Benevolent, 166 Lunatic, 167, 218 Ateamuri, 134 Athenaeum, The Auckland, 68, 73, 231 Athletic Club Grounds, 69 Atkinson, Sir Harry, 143, 151 Atua, The, 46, 227 Auckland, City of, 57-73 Beauty of, 59, 62, 73 Caricatured, 164, 165 Choral Society, 66 Climate, 23, 24, 235 Grammar School, 71 Free Library, 63, 65 Geographical Position, 57,58 Harbour, 61, 63 Institute and Museum, 68 City Institutions, 63-73 Music in, 67, 68 Newspapers, 67 Population, 58, 59 Port of, 61, 62 Savings Bank, 66 Schools, 71 Seat of the Government, 59, 138 Shipping, 61, 62 Theatre, 69 University College, 68, 71, 161 Y.M.C.A., 65, 66 Y.W.C.A., 66 Province. 20-23 Acclimatization in, 71 A vifauna of, 23 Climate of, 24, 25 Flora of, 22 Vital Statistics, 57 Aurora Australis, 86 Australian v. New Zealand Climates, 15 246 INDEX. Australasian Science Association, 213 BAINBRIDGE, Edwin A., 125, 130- 132 Balclutha Schoolboy, A, 70 Barker, Lady, 199 Bates, E. Katherine, 214 Bay of Islands, 77 Plenty, 82, 85 Bealey, 33 Benefit Societies, 13, 223 Bible-Beading in Schools, 158 Translated into Maori, 45 Binder twine, 196 Birkenhead (Auckland), 63 Black, Professor, 162 Blair, W. N., 194 Blenheim, 31 Blomfield, Charles, 210 Blueskin (Dunedin), 34 Bonuses offered by Government, 191 Bourne, C. F., 159 Bowen Falls, The, 116 Breaksea Sound, 114 Br< akwaters (Napier, New Ply- mouth and Timaru), 27, 171 Brett's Almanac, 61, 195 ' Britain of the South,' 8 Bronchitis, 25, 29, 237 Brown, Capt., 213 Brown, Professor F. D., 161, 162 Bryce, the Hon. John, 49 Building Societies, 13, 176 Stone, 188 ' Bush,' beauty of the, 99, 102, 209 Buying a Practice, 222 Cabinet Ministers, trials of, 143, 144 Cadets, Volunteer, 204, 206 " Caesar," 118 Calliope Dock, 61, 171 Campbell, Dr., 63 the Pot-t, 9 Cameron, Capt., Ill General, 55 Cameron's Bath, 89 Canterbury College, 162 Plain-, 32 Caswell Bay, Marble, 115, 188 Cs well Sound, 114 Cathedral City, the, 32 Centralization, tendency to, 132 Centrifugal Law of Migration, 3 Centripetal Law of Migration, 3 Chalybeate Springs, 77 Chambers of Commerce, 194 Cheeseman, Clara, 199 T. F., 68 Chinese in N.Z., 6, 193 Choice of N.Z. Climates, 5, 19 Cholera, Asiatic and European, 232 Christchurch, City, 32, 194 Cathedral, 32 Children in, 32 Climate, 32, 33 Industrial Exhibi- tion, 192 Population, 32, 58 Climate of N. Zealand, 16-19 Climate Zones of N.Z., 19-38, 239 Clubs, Cuisine of, &c., 207 Sick and Benefit, 223 Coach Varnish, 186, 196 Coal, varieties of, 188 Coleoptera, 213 Coode, Sir John, 27 Cook's Strait, 16, 29 Cook, Captain, 111 Cook, Mount, 33 Cook, Joseph, of Boston, 66, 208 Copper, 188 Corduroy Koads, 98 Coromandel, 186 Costley, the late Edward, 63, 64 Industrial Home, 65 Legacy, the, 64, 65 Cows, average yearly value of, 183 Cowie, Bishop, 156 Craters Extinct, 63, 124 Criminal Class, the, 169 Crisp, Miss (Mrs. Bond), 167 Croup, 233 Crown Lands ready for occupation, 144 Classified, 144 Offices, 145 Terms of Lease or Purchase, 145-149 Crow's Nest, Wairakei, 134 Cuttle Cove, 111 Dairy Produce, 183 Daldy, Captain, 65 Dane, Major, 66 INDEX. 247 Darling Downs (Queensland), 15, 236 Death by Accident, 239 Decay of Teeth, Premature, 237 Remedy for, 238 Decorative Industry, 195 Deferred Payment System, 146 Delaware's Crew Rescued, 55 Dentists in N.Z., 7 Devil's Blow Hole, 106 Devonport, 24, 60, 62, 79 Diphtheria, 233, 234 Direct Mail Steamers, 10, 61, 182 Diseases curable by Hot Springs, 94 Diseases unsuited to Hot Springs, 95 Dobie, T., 21 Doherty, T., 113 Domain, the (Auckland), 60 Domett, Alfred, 51, 101, 143. Drought, unknown in N.Z , 17 Duuedin City, 34 Buildings, 34 Children in, 35 Climate of, 34 Club of, 35 Population, 34 Prevalent Complaints, 35 Prices in, 13, 35 Rainfall, 17, 35 Scenery of, 34 Temperature, 34 Town Belt, 35 Dusky Sound, 113 EAKNSLAW Mount, 36, 109 Economical Government, An, 141 Economic Plants, Culture of, 21, 191 Eccentric Characters, 199 Eden, Mount, 58, 59, 122 View from, 59 Edison's Magnetic Separator, 187 Education System, 156-165 Boards, 157 Primary, 157, 158 Secondary, 159 Technical, 162 University, 159-163 Edwin, Captain, 17 Effect of Climate on Character, 203 Effect of Climate on the Voice, 25 Egmont, Mount, 18, 25, 135 Ascent of, 26 Emigration Societies, 5 Employment of Children and Females, 194, 195 Enamel-lined Butter-boxes, 183 Entozoa, 237 Eocene Period in N.Z., 123 Equal Electoral Districts, 144 Eruption of Tarawera, Earthquakes, 126 Explosions, 127 Height of Dust Column, 127 Loss of Life, 130-132 Results of, 128-130 , " Evening Star," the, 58, 67 Exanthemata, the, 232, 233 FACTS showing return of prosperity, 152, 153 Fares to N.Z., 11 Railway in N.Z., 170 Fast Mail route to N.Z., 11, 61 Fell, Henry Ellcray, 230 Fiji Islands, 235 Finances of N.Z., 141, 151-3 Fires, Causes of, &c. 202, 203 First Offenders' Probation Act, 169 Fissure, the Great, 123, 1 28 Fish, Acclimatized 71, 72 Native, 71, 111 Fitzroy, Captain, 138, 141 Flax (Phormium tenaxj, 46, 189, 196, 227 Folgefond Glacier (Norway), 117 Food, Prices of, 13, 71 Forbes, Archibald, 208 Fornander, Dr., 48 Foreign Workmen in Britain, 4 Fox, Sir William, 70, 143, 218 Free Trade Party, the, 192 Free Libraries, 31, 65, 163, 164 Friendly S icieties, 176 French Puss, the, 31 Froude, J. A., 19, 58 Fruit-Preserving, 29, 190 Fungus (Hirneola), 189, 2'28 Furniture, 10, 190, 192 Furnishing, Expense of, 13 GAMBLING Spirit, the, 215 Gaols, 168, 169 248 INDEX. Gardens, Auckland, 24 George, Henry, 213 George Sound, 115 Germany's need of Colonies, 3 Geysers, 75, 105, 129, 133 Ginders, Dr. A., 75, 85, 87, 96 Girdler, Dr. G. T., 231 Gisborne, 27, 57, 145 Glass-Works, 190 Glenorcliy, 36 " Globe-Trotter," 2, 198, 202 Gold Mines, 186, 187 Tax upon, 186 Gordon, Sir Arthur, 141 Gout, Thermal treatment of, 95 Government Life Insurance, 174, 175 Government, Responsible, granted, 139 Governors of New Zealand, 141 Graham, The late Robert, 45, 54, 79 Graham, Miss, 79 " Grass " Widows and Widowers, 201 Great Britain, Annual Increase of, 4 Greater Britain, Pref., 1, 4 Grazing Runs, 148 Green, Rev. W. Spottiswoode, 33 Grey, Sir George, K.C.B., 51, 54, 63, 141, 143, 144, 194, 200 Grey, collection of MSS., 64 Maori Legends, 51 Griffin, Consul G. W., 62, 73 Gymnasia, 65, 205 HEMATITE, Iron-Ore, 187 Haifa (the Maori dance), 51 Hall, Sir John, 143 Hamner Plains Springs, 78 Hapus (tribes), 40, 45, 49, 137 Hare, sybtem of voting, 144 Haszard, the late C. A., 103, 130 Hastings (Napier), 27 Haultain, Col., 05 Havelock, 27 Hawaiian Dialect, 41, 42 Hawkes Bay, 26, 48 Hector, Sir James, 82, 115, 163 Hill, Rev. J. S., 65 Hobson, Captain, First"Governor of New Zealand, 136, 138 Hochstetter, Dr. F. von, 63, 122 Hokitika, 17. 18, 33, 37 " Home," used for Britain, 3, 4, &c. Home, a happy, in N.Z., 3, 8, 218 Homestead system, the, 147 Honey, exported, 183 Hongi (rubbing noses), 52 Hospitals of New Zealand, 165- 167 Hospital, the Auckland, G2, 65, 167 . Dunedin, 163 Hospital and Charitable Aid Boards, 166 Ho wick, 25, 155 Humour of W. J. Frater, 198 D. Sutherland, 118 Hururunui River, 27, 31 Hydatids of the Liver, 237 Hymn, Maori version of a, 44 INCUBATOR, the, 70 Immigrants wanted in N.Z., 6, 8, 9 not wanted in N.Z., 7,8 " Indian summer," of Rotorua, 86 Industrial exhibitions, 192 Inlaid Cabinet Ware, 192 Insomnia, 24 Inspectors of Sheep and Rabbits, 176 Institute, the New Zealand, 163 Institutes, Local Scientific, 163 Inventiveness of the Colonists, 195 Invercargill, 36, 37, 145 Climate of, 37 Iodine, Springs containing, 77 Ironsand Deposits, 187 Iron works, 187 JACKSON, Samuel, Senr., 98 Jervois, Sir W. F. D., G.C.M.G., C.B.,&c., 61, 141. 172 " Joshua's," Taupe, 38 KAINGA (village), 48, 50, 135 Kaingaroa Plains, 133 Kaiwaka Creek, 104, 107, 129 Kaka, 23, 99, 209 KuJ;apo, 23, 99 Kakaramea Mt , 133 Kanjo, 22, 77 Karaka, 99, 228 Poisonous effects of, 228 Karakine (the alkaloid), 228 Karahia (a spell), 48, 132 INDEX. 249 Kaltikatea (White Pine), 185 Katipo Spider, and effects of its bite, 209, 228, 229 Kate and Sophia, guides, 102, 108 Kauri, the, 18, 185, 202 Gum, 185, 196 Kauwhanga Spring, 89 Kawau I, 69 Kimberley Mount, 116 " King Country," the, 27, 38, 45 Kinloch, Lake Wakatipu, 36 Kiwi, the, 23 Kotekohe. 227 Korero, 50, 51 Korimako (Bell Bird) 23, 210 Maori Journal, 44 Kormniko, 53, 71, 227 Korohotis, 92, 93 Koura, 53, 71 Krakatoa. Eruption, the, 121 Kuirau Spring, 76 Kuripapauga (Napier), 27 LAKES of Otago, Fish in the, 71 Lake Ada, 116, 118 Manapouri, 109 Ngahewa, 133 Rotokakahi, 102, 104, 125 Rotokawau, 94 Rotomahana, 102-108, 129 Rotomakiriri, 104 Rotorua, 83-96, 100 Takapuna, 62 Tarawera, 103, 104 Taupo, 27, 77, 84, 133,' 134 Te Anau. 109 Tikitapu, 102 Wakatipu, 36, 42, 115, 119 Land Tenure in N.Z., 144, 145 Larrikinism, Causes and Cure, 204, 205 Laughing-Gas Bath, 89 Lectures, successful in N.Z., 208 Ledum palustre, 119 Leprosy, 95, 226 Lewis, Dr. T. H., 85, 87, 96 Litliia in Springs, 82, 89, 90, 93 Little Barrier Island, 23, 59 Literature in N.Z., love of, 213 Lithographic Stone (Dusky Sound), 113 Living, cost of, 12, 13 Local Option, 169 Lomond Ben, 36 Lami-lomi, of Hawaii, 99, 257 Long Sound, 112 Loyalty of the Colonists, 140, 165 Lunacy in N.Z., 168, 218, 241 Lyttelton Port, 32 MACKELVIE, the late J. T., 63, 66 Macrae's Hotel, Wairoa, 102, 103, 131. " Madame Rachel '' Bath, 88, 95 Maire, black and white, 185 Mana, 53, 54 Manawatu Gorge, 27 Maning, Judge, 45, 52, 98, 100, 108 Manuka or TV-tree, 60, 98, 104, 22S Manukau Harbour, 25, 58 Mauna Loa, 122 Maungongaonga Mount, 133 Maunsell, Archdeacon, 45 Maoris, The, 39-56 their appearance, 40 character, 41, 45, 54 customs, 48-54 decline, 47, 230 Missions among the, 42, 44, 45, 55, 56 Origin of, 39 Marlborough Province, 31 Martin, Lady, 55 Mean Annual Rainfall, 17 Temperature, 16 Daily Range of do, 17 Meat, Frozen, 182 Tinned, Cured, Salted, 182, 234 Mechanics' Institutes, 213 Medical Men, Number of, 7 Prospects of, 7, 219- 225 Melancholia among Natives, 226 Mercury (Cinnabar), 77, 188 Mere (of Jade), 51, 54 Meteorological Department, 17 Midland Railway of N.Z., 33 Militia Law, the, 206 Milford Sound, 115-119 Mills, James, 110 Minett, T , 131 Ministry, Frequent Changes of, 142, 201 Minor Industries, 190 Mitre Ptak, 116, 117 250 INDEX. Moa, the (Dinornis), 23 Mohi (Moses), 55 Mount Eden, 59, 63 Moreton, S. H., 117 Morriusville, 81 Motuihi, 59, 233 Motutapu, 59. 69 " Muggy " Weather, 18, 24 Muller, George, 66 Muru, 48, 49 Music in Auckland, 68 New Zealand 7, 211 Musical Festival, A, 211 Mutton Delicious, 182 NAPA, Soda Spring, 77 Napier, Agricultural Show at, 27 Climate of, 26 Population, 26 Port of, " The Spit," 26 Public Buildings, 27 Subsoil of, 26 Native Birds of N Z., 23, 209 Lands Act, 145 Court, 47, 137 Remedies, 227, 228 Necessity of Emigration for Eng- land, 4, 5 Nelson, City, 29 Climate of, 29, 30 Export of Gold, 30 hops, 30 jam, 29 Population of, 30 New Grand Tour, the, 134, 135 New Plymouth, 25, 26 New Zealand, Area of, 16 Birth-rate of, 6 Climate, 16-19 Colonization of, 138, 139, 155 for the Europeans, 9, 194 Population of, 7 Public Debt, 141 Herald, the, 67, 165 Natural Resources of, 196 Society, 198, 199 Shipping Co., 10 University, 7, 159, 160 NgaruawaMfl, 42 Ngauruhoe Volcano, 78, 121, 133 Ngongotaha, Mt., 84 Nikau Palm, 99, 228 Niuafu Volcano, 122 Norse wood, 139, 147 North Island Trunk Railway, 58, 135, 164 Norwegian Immigrants, 139 Normauby, Marquis of, 141 OAMARU, 33, 188 Oats, New Zealand, 184 Obsidian, 103 Ocean Beach (Dunedin), 31 Ohaeawai, 77 Ohinemutu, 91, 99, 100 Oil Bath, the, 92, 93 Onehunga, 58, 181, 187 Onetapu Spring, 76, 78 Onslow, Lord, 144 Orange Culture, 21, 22 Oruawhata Spring, 89 Ostrich Farm (Auckland), 70 Schoolboy's Essay on the, 70 Otago Daily Times, 198 Climate of, 34-36 University, 159, 162, 163 Otorohanga, 226 Otumahike Spring, 76 Outdoor Sports, 69, 205 Outfit for the Emigrant, 9, 10 Medical man, 222, 223 Oxford, 85 PAHUA Spring, 77, 78 " Paiukiller " Spring, the, 89, 90 Pakeha, 45 Pakeha-Maori, 45 Pahnerston North, 27, 28 Climate of, 28 Boating at, 28 Panama Canal, 58 Paper Mills, (Duuedin, Ma taura) 190 Parihaka, 49 Parnell Orphan Asylum, 64 Pastoral Runs, 148 Patent Laws of N.Z., 195 Payton, E. W., 214, 215, 217 Pembroke Glacier, the, 117 Pt troleum Springs, 188, 190 Phthisis Laryngea, 236 pulmonalis, 225, 23G, 237 cases of, 235 mortality, 267 INDEX. 251 Phthisis pulraonalis, localities suit- able for, 20, 22, 26, 29, 231 Phthisis pulmonalis, localities un- suitable for, 35, 37, 38 Pianos everywhere, 212 Picton, climate of, 31 Herrings, 30 Pink Cauldron of Waiotnpu, 133 Terrace, the, 107, 129, 210 Poetry in N.Z., 212 Police, the, 169 Pohutakawa, 99 Port Chalmers, 111, 177 Pounett, Professor, 161 Post Office, 184 Postage, rates of, 172 Potatoes, 184 Poverty Bay, 48 Praed, Mrs. Campbell, 199 Preservation Inlet, 111, 112 Priest's Bath, the, 87, 88 Proctor, the late R. A., 208 Protective Tariff, the, 192, 195 Proucle, Robert, 98 Psoriasis. Thermal Treatment of, 95, 96 ' Public Works Policy, 150 Puhoi (Waiwera), 139 Puka-puka, 99, 228 Pumice, deposit of TaupoZone, 123 passing into Obsidian, 123 Puriri Spring, 77 Puriri tree, 99, 185, 190 QUARANTINE station, 233 Queen's assent to Colonial Acts, 140 Queen's disallowance of Colonial Acts, 141 Queen Charlotte's Sound, 30 Queenstown, 35 Climate of, 36 Earthquake at, 36 ., Scenery around, 36 Queen Street, Auckland, 59, 63 RAILWAYS of N.Z. Ralph, Dr. T. S., 125 Rangi (First Maori Convert), 45 Rangitoto Mt, 62 Raratongan Dialect, 41 Eata. the, 112. 185 Reductions in Government Expen- diture, 141, 142 Registrar-General's report, 47, 154, 169 Registration, Medical, 223 Religion, (of all Denominations). 139. 153-156 Reischek, A., 118 Remittance men, 62, 217 Remueta, 59, 62 Resemblance of N.Z. to Italy, 16. 123 Resuscitation of apparently drowned, by the natives, 227 Revenue, Surplus over Expendi- ture, 153 Rewa-rewa, 99, 185, 190 Rheumatism, Thermal Treatment of, 80, 94, 95, 96 Richardson, Dr. B. W., 217 Richmond, Hon. J. C., 36 Riinutaka Pass, the, 170 Bimu, 99, 112, 190, 228 Rinking, 206, 207 Rock of the Taipo, 104 Rotomahaua, Great Crater of, 128 Robinson, Sir Hercules, 141 Rotorua District, 84 " Season " 86, 87 Township, 83-87 Routes to New Zealand, 10, 11 Ruapehu, Mount, 28, 76, 78, 82 SAILORS' Rests, 177 Sailors' Homes, 65, 177 Sala, G. A., 208 Salutation, the Native, 43 Samoan Dialect, 41 Sandflies and their bite, 119 Scarlet Fever, 225 Schmitt, Herr Carl. G8 Schools, Native, is School of Applied Science, 162 Forestry, 22 Sects. Harmony among the, 155 Self-Help Emigration Societies, 5 Selwyn, Bishop, G. A.. 54, 155 Sequence of Volcanic Events (1883-6) preceding Tarawera, 122 Settlement of the Chief Towns. 139 Seventy-Mile-Bush, 27 Sewell, Hon. Henry, 143 " Shilling-a-Month Men," 204 Shortland, Lieut-Col. 138 Sibilants in Maori, Absence of, 41 252 INDEX. Silver, Export of, 186 Sinclair, Captain, 110, 115 Skey, F. C., Analyst, 76, 86} Skins and Hides, Export of, 122, 183 Skin Diseases, Cured by the Springy 94, 95 " Slain by Drink," 218 Smallpox in N.Z., 233 Shaw, Seville, and Albion Co., 10 Smith, S. Percy, F.R G.S., 123, 128 Social Life, Refinement of, 205 Socialistic Revolution, Danger of, 4 Sounds, West Coast. The, 109-119 Southern Alps, 18, 32 Southland, Province, 36, 37 Spectral Canoe, Story, 125 Spinach, Discovery of, 113 Spout Bath, the, 92 Stafford, Sir Edward, 143 State-Regulated Emigration, 5 Stout, Sir Robert, 143 Stonewall Jarkson Bath, 90 Sub-Tropical Fruits, 21 Sunday Closing of Public-houses, 70 Supreme Court, the, 168 Sutherland Fall, the, 116 Svartisen Glacier (Norway), 117 Synod of the Church of England in New Zealand, 156 TABLE of Distances, 244 Taj-Mahal of Agra, 106 Tamati-Waka-Nene, 136 Tanekaha Bark (Phyllodadus), 189 Tangi, 48, 52, 53 Tapu, 40, 48, 226 Taranaki, Climate of, 17, 25, 26, 37 Tarawera Mountain, 63, 124 River, 104, 129 Spring, 77 Steamer, 109-118 Tatooing, 41 Tauhara Mt., 133 Taupo Volcanic Zone, 20, 37, 38, 123 Tauranga, 85, 94, 96, 108, 126 Tawhiao, " King," 49, 50 Tawhai, the late Graham, 55 Technical Education, 162 Te Ariki, 104, 126,130 Aroha, 81, 82 Aute, 27 Heu-Heu, 135 Te Ika o Main, 51, 123 Kute JSpring, 93 Moura, 130 Ngae, 52, 108 Reinga, 53 Tapui, 92 Tarata, 104 Whiti, 49 Telegrams " Delayed," 173 Telephones, 67, 173, 221 Temperance Societies, 169 Terraces Destroyed, the, 129 Thames Gold Mines, 186, 187 Thermal Springs District Act, 84 Thomas, Professor A. P. W., 161 Thompson, Surgeon A. S., 225, 229 Thunderstorms, 37 Tikitere, 93-95 Timaru, 33 Tin, 188 Tiri-Tiri, 59 Tobacco, Abuse of, 216, 240 Tohunga, 48, 132 Tougariro, Mount, 16, 82, 133, 135 Totara, 99, 185 Totalisator, Evil of the, 215 Tourists' Tales, 198 Towsey, A. J., Ill, 114 Trust Office, Public, 175 Tuhoto, the Tohunga, 48, 132 Tuhourangi Tribe, the, 108, 124 Tui (Parson Bird), 23, 99, 209 Tupakihi, 99 Turikore Spring, 92 Tweeds, New Zealand, 181 Typhoid Fever, 230-232 Tylor, Dr. E. B., 48 UNION S.S. Co., 61, 110, 149 United Kingdom Alliance, 218 United States, the, 196, 197, 218 Ups and Downs ' of Colonial Life, 201 Utu, 48, 49 VACCINATION, 232, 233 with Calf Lymph, 233 Vancouver, 113 Village Settlement, 147 Viniculture, 21, 191. 194, 239 Vital Statistics, 57, 58, 241, 242 Vogel, Sir Julius, 142, 143, 150 Volcanic Eruption of Tarawera, 126-128 INDEX. 253 Volcanic Extinct Craters, 63, 124 Ash, Dust, and Mud, 127-129 Volcanoes of the Pacific, 120, 121 Volunteers, 206 WAGES in New Zealand, 12, 193 Wage-earning Students, 160 Wahanui (Maori Chief), 226 Wahi-tapu, 48 Waiheke I., 62 Wailiou River, 81 Waihunuhunukuri Spring, 91 Waikato, 71, 98 Waikite, 91 Waimarino, 135 Waiorongornai, 81 Wai-o-tapu Valley, 108, 133 Pink Cauldron, 133 White Terrace, 133 Waipu Caves, the, 22 Wairakei, 134 Waiarapa, 71 Wairoa (Tarawera), 102, 126, 129, 130 Waitakerei, 197 Waitaki, S.S., 98 Waitangi, Treaty of, 136, 137 Waitemata, 5 1 *, 59, 63 Waiwera, 78-81 Wangaehu, River, 78 Wanganui, 28 Falls, 135 River, 27, 135 Wasley of Waitakerei, 199 Watchman, the, 63 Waterhouse, Hon. G. M., 143 Weather Stations, 17 Weld, Sir Frederick A., 28, 59, 143 Wellington, 28 Climate, 28 Earthquakes, 28, 164 Harbour, 29 Legislature at, 207 Population, 29 Rainfall, 17, 28 " Season," the, 207 West Coast Sounds, 108-119 Fishes, 111 Flora, 112 Wetland, Climate of, 33 Westport Coal, 188 Wet Jacket Arm, 114 Whaling Industry, 190 Whakarewarewa, 86, 92, 93, 130 Wliaiigapipiro Spring, 88 Whangarei, 21, 22 Whangaroa, 21 U'hare (hut), 43. 47, 92, 94, 101 Whare-kura (temple), 40 Whare-puni (council-room), 50 Wheat, Exported, 184 land sown in, 183 yield per acre, 181 Whitaker, Sir Frederick, 143, 144 Whitebait in the Rivers, 71 White Island (solfataraj, 121, 122 White Terrace, the, 104-108, 129 Williams, Rev. Henry, 136 Withy, Edward, M. H. R., 192 Wonderland of North Island, 98- 108 Middle Island.1 08- 109 the NEW, 132-135 Woods, Ornamental Native, 185, 192 Woodville, 27 Climate, 28 Wool, Export of, 180, 181 favourite staples of, 180 Woollen Goods of N.Z., 181 Mills of N.Z., 181 Works and Manufactories (1881-6), 191 Worthington, Henry, 114 Wounds, how treated by natives, 226 Wright, Dr. A., 82 YOUNG Men's Christian Association of Auckland, 65, 66 Young Women's Christian Associa- tion, 66 Young New Zealand Artistic Taste of, 210, 211 Inventiveness of, 195 Sobriety of, 217, 240 Stoicism of, 203, 204 ZONES OF CLIMATE, 19, 20 Zone No I., 20-27 No. II., 27-31 No. III.. 31-37 No. IV., 20, 37, 38 LONDON : FEINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, BTAJU'OBD STBEET JLJiD C1IAB1XG CBOSS. A Catalogue of American and Foreign Books Published or Imported by MESSRS. SAMPSON Low & Co. can be had on application. 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