THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES DAILY LIFE DURING THE INDIAN MUTINY Some pinions of tbe press " Mr Sherer gives a graphic account of the events he wit- nessed in the terrible times of the Mutiny. He has done right to publish the letters sent to him by Sir James Outram and others ; they speak for themselves." Glasgow Herald. " It throws an interesting sidelight on those troublous times from a civilian non-combatant's point of view." Pall Mall Gazette; " Full of exciting adventure, with the added charm of actual personal experience. Written in a vigorous and picturesque style." Bookseller. "Mr Sherer's narrative is full of good stories, and he has done well to republish it in its present form." Publishers' Circular. " This publication will be interesting, instructive, and useful to the younger generation, as throwing a few sidelights on a momentous episode in our national history, and enabling them to estimate in some degree the anxiety, sorrow and horror which moved the nation in thrills and pulsations." Shooting Times. "Although memoirs and reminiscences of the Indian Mutiny have been published by the score, the reader will find in Mr Sherer's narrative much that will be new and interesting to him even now when the story of 1857 is fading away into old history." Broad Arrow. "The pages of this modest, amiable book are a valuable supplement to the more dignified histories." Spectator. DAILY LIFE DURING THE INDIAN MUTINY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES OF 1857 BY J. W. SHERER, C.S.I. " fl'O' apKTTOl r\ov TToAc/xoio veiKos eo-^arais f Pindar Where our best Sustained the strife of war When hopes were at their lowest LONDON SWAN SONNENSCHEIN & CO. LIM. 25 HIGH STREET, BLOOMSBURY, W.C. 1910 THE RIVERSIDE PRESS LIMITED, EDINBURGH. X)S So GENERAL MOWBRAY THOMSON IN REMEMBRANCE OK DAYS GONE BY AND IN TOKEN OF A LONG FRIENDSHIP 1857 1898 PREFACE THE chapters forming this volume were contributed by me to Colonel F. C. Maude's " Memories of the Mutiny," which appeared early in 1894, They were founded on part of a series of letters descriptive of life in the North- Western Pro- vince of India, and of my experiences there, which were written at the suggestion of Sir Charles Lawson, and pub- lished by him in The Madras Mail, of which he was then the editor, and, as now, principal proprietor. The high price of Colonel Maude's illustrated work placed it beyond the reach of some who might otherwise have wished to possess it, though it was, of course, obtainable at public and mess libraries, and received unusual notice from the press. Its copyright belongs solely to Mr. John Macqueen, the pub- lisher, of Norfolk Street, Strand, and as he has apparently no immediate intention of issuing a cheap edition of the "Memories," he has very courteously allowed me to republish my portion of the work separately; and it now appears under this permission, and with the full knowledge and good wishes of Colonel Maude. VI11 PREFACE. As the intention of the author was simply to present what may be called a domestic view of an anxious and exciting crisis, discussions as to the origin of the outbreak, or the political warnings it may be held to have supplied, would be out of place. But I trust that, incidentally, the narrative may be useful in throwing a few side-lights on a momentous episode in our national history. The occasion has been taken for careful revision, and the correction of misprints and slips of memory. For the folly of a portrait I must plead the excuse that my effigies in the illustrated " Memories " turned out, through my own mala- droitness, a sorrowful caricature, and I trust that the present representation may be leniently regarded as a protest rather than an egotism. CONTENTS CHAP. FAG INTRODUCTION . . I I. WITHDRAWAL . . . . .II II. SCENES AT BANDA . . . .29 III. NOMAD LIFE ..... 37 IV. MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS ... $2 V. HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE . . . . 60 VI. CAWNPORE RE-OCCUPIED . . . 76 VII. THE RAINS OF l8$7 . . .93 VIII. ANXIOUS WEEKS . . . . I2O ix. DUNCAN'S HOTEL . , . .146 X. THE NUWAB'S HOUSE , . . ,163 APPENDIX . . . . .185 IN MEMORIAM . . , . 197 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY INTRODUCTION I LANDED in Calcutta in December, 1846, and after a rather long stay in connection with passing the college, finally pro- ceeded up country in the spring of 1848, and reaching Agra, was appointed Assistant Magistrate there. In the same year, I was transferred to Muttra, where I acted as Joint- Magistrate. In 1850, the Lieut.-Governor, Mr. James Thomason, whose father had been an intimate friend of mine, ap- pointed me Assistant Secretary to his Government. After- wards I acted as Registrar of the old S udder Court, and later, became Joint-Magistrate of Allygurh. In the cold weather of 1856, I was directed by the Revenue Board to report on the condition of lands bordering the Jumna Canals, which had suffered very much from a saline effloresence called by the natives Reh. My tour led me to Paneeput, and Kurnal, and Rohtuk, and Nujufgurh, and other places, afterwards so often mentioned in accounts of the Siege of Delhi. In Delhi itself, I staid a day or two on my way back, and particularly remember one Sunday afternoon. I went to evening prayers at the church built by Col. Skinner. 2 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. Service was, I think, at five. I must mention that, person- ally, I had not the slightest idea that there were any symptoms of approaching disturbance in the country, or of uneasy feeling in the Army. The function proceeded till it was time for the sermon, when, instead of going into the pulpit, Chaplain Jennings walked down the church to the font, where he commenced the celebration of a baptism. As he passed the pew, I thought I noticed a rather dogged expression on his face, as of one who should say, " I know this is a little burdensome, but I think it correct, and you must bear it." Afterwards, when the pulpit was reached, it was growing dark, and soon a candle had to be sent for. This slender, solitary light in the darkening church, and the loud voice proceeding from a figure partially occupying the small disk of brightness, had a most singular effect. The sermon, which the preacher would not curtail by a syllable on account of the lateness, dwelt, as far as I remember, on the vicissitudes of life, and urged how unwise the postpone- ment of repentance was in the face of the absolute un- certainty of the future. I felt at the time a most unaccount- able sinking of spirits; and when afterwards I came to remember how many were present, shrouded in the gloom, whose lives were rapidly drawing to a close, I grew to associate with the scene some sense of forewarning, from which my memory is now unable to disengage itself. When the tour was over, I went to the house of my father-in-law, Harington, at Agra, to write my report. He was a judge of the old Sudder Court, and lived in the Kandaharee Bagh, an ancient tomb adapted to household purposes, and standing in a walled garden. It was in this, walking with him and a colonel of native infantry, that the INTRODUCTION. possibility of a mutiny first struck me. The subject of the cartridges quite uew to me was being discussed, and the colonel said if the materials for greasing them were such as suspected, and biting them was insisted upon, the Sepoys would certainly not obey orders. "And," he added, "though John Sepoy seems such a quiet fellow in the lines, on such matters as his caste, his religion, or his women, if he gets off his head, there is no violence or cruelty he would not commit." Thus was the seed sown in one's mind of much subsequent anxiety. During my stay at Agra, Wulleedad Khan, who after- wards gave much trouble at his own town, Boolundsbuhr, got an introduction to me, and called two or three times. He was then as was known afterwards, plotting against our Government amongst the Mahomedans of Agra, and I suppose made up to me in the hopes of hearing from me what Harington and men in his position thought of the crisis. I remember one day saying that the misapprehen- sion in the Army was very extraordinary, and Wulleedad answered, "But it is of no importance. What could revolted Sepoys do ? A soldier untrue to his salt is not a formidable enemy." When we finally parted, he said he hoped sooner or later the Government (Sircar) would send me to Boolund- shuhr. It is very odd he should have taken the trouble to talk in this false way. I can ouly suppose he wished to create a favourable impression of loyalty, as a string to his bow in case of accidents. My report was approved of by the new Lieut. -Governor, Mr. John Colvin, and he appointed me to act as Magistrate and Collector of Futtehpore-Hussowa, a district situated in the Doab, between Cawupore and Allahabad. The town- 4 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. ship of Futtehpore itself was on the Grand Trunk Road, and is now a railway station about 35 miles from Cawnpore, I travelled towards my new home, with my wife and chil- dren, in two posting carriages, and as it was getting very hot we moved at night, being drawn by coolies along the smooth road. We constantly passed groups of Sepoys, leave having been purposely given with exceptional freedom. The Magis- trate of Cawnpore, Mr. Hillersdon, had asked us to put up with him, and we stayed a day or two in his comfortable bungalow in Nuwab Gunj. Mrs. Hillersdon was an accom- plished pianist a favourite pupil of Ascher and she delighted us with some charming music, both on her own instrument and on the concertina, which, in her hands, proved itself as satisfactory as it usually is very much the contrary with less skilful players. She was fond of Men- delssohn's Rondo Capriccios, then not hackneyed, and I never hear the piece without recollections of the still interior of the Cawnpore house, its accomplished mistress, her hus- band, her children, her brother-in-law Col. Hillersdon all doomed to speedy and painful destruction. Little did I think, as I sat talking with Hillersdon over friends we had both known at Muttra, that in a month or two I should be his successor, and that four only would be alive of all our countrymen whose duties had collected them at Cawnpore, and of the families that had gathered around them. When we reached our destination, we found much ex- citement, but no special knowledge of the state of affairs at Allahabad, further than that the 6th Regiment of Native Infantry was considered shaky. As the treasury guard at Futtehpore, commanded by a Subahdar, was supplied by that regiment, its conduct was of local interest. I relieved INTRODUCTION. my predecessor, Mr. Edmonstone, and he went off to Allaha- bad, and then the circle at the station consisted of four railway engineers engaged in constructing the new line to Cawnpore, viz. t Bews, Oswin, Heathcote, and a fourth whose name has escaped me. Then there was Mr. Robert Tucker, the judge, and Elliott Macnaghten, Assistant Magistrate, and Dr. Hutchinson and his wife, and Anderson, opium agent, and his mother, and a salt inspector who was often away in the district, and ourselves. Our judge was a tall, large-boned man, eccentric in some of his views, but of an exceedingly fine character. He was one of those of whom you felt absolutely certain that in no circumstances of life, however trying, would any unworthy motive ever even cross his mind. He was possessed of much information, and conversed with an easy flow of language, and in a voice of full and pleasant tone, so that it was an enjoyment to listen to him. Though vivacious and social enough, his life was directed by strict principles of what old Isaak Walton called " the primitive piety." In the court, where he sat at the daily task, he had had painted on the wall over his chair a label with these words, " Thou God seest me." At the entry of the town, too, he had got per- mission to erect pillars by the wayside, on which he had had inscribed, in the vernacular, the Ten Commandments, and sundry religious precepts. Though there was no immediate cause for apprehension, I received orders not to let the ladies stay in case of threat- ened danger. The mail-carts seemed to afford a fair test of general security, and as long as they ran regularly both ways, I did not think any action necessary. But at last, one night, there was no mail from the westward. A sowar usually 6 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. came up at midnight with the letters, and I was awakened to see if there was any news of importance. On this occa- sion he waited an hour or two, and then rode up to say the cart had not arrived. My brother-in-law, Forbes, who had been ordered home sick, was staying with us, and his wife and children were with him. I had to give notice in the morning that unless the mail-cart came at noon, there must be a start for Allahabad. Twelve struck, no mail-cart. So the posting carriages were sent for, and the two families, under the protection of Forbes, were sent off. When they reached Allahabad, the road to Calcutta was reported open, and they pushed on ; and the last day there was any post from Allahabad, there came a mere scrap of untidy paper with the words " all safe " written on it, and the Calcutta post-mark. The same day my people left me, I warned the other ladies ; and as they were more or less expecting an intima- tion, their arrangements were complete, and off they went. As it happened, the mail-cart had only broken down, and at last came in ; but affairs were very gloomy, and it was a great relief to know that no one was left but those whose duties required them to stay. All Eurasians connected with the offices decided on such plans for the safety of their families as seemed to them the most suitable. I occupied a large and roomy house, which had been built by my pre- decessor, and as it seemed most desirable that we should act together in case of emergency, I proposed to all the men that we should make a common home of the only place in the station that would accommodate so large a party. The news grew worse. English soldiers, by twos and threes, occasionally passed through towards Cawnpore in INTRODUCTION. conveyances, and these the Kotwal, or head constable of the town, who was really a rebel in the guise of a humourist, called the choontee fouj, or ant-array. One evening three officers called on us on their way westward. One was named Bax, and another was a young fellow just joining, and we made them stay supper. Afterwards a song or two followed, and they left us at midnight, not without " one cheer more," and so departed to their fate. The railway men tried to work in the mornings, but could not manage much ; and though our courts and office were open, yet there was no business. Only the opium-eaters were con- stant ; they came at the stated hour for their supply of the drug. They dwelt in dreamland, and were not interested in the troubles of real life. The sub-officers out in the district reported that crime had ceased altogether. A Sanscrit poet describes how, in an overwhelmingly hot season, the cobra lay under the peacock's wing, and the frog, again, reclined beneath the hood of the cobra. All anti- pathies and antagonisms were forgotten. And so, amongst the peasantry around us, there was a general expectation which paralysed all activity. The thief sat down by the door-keeper, and the bad characters sought the shelter of the miser's wall ; all were waiting waiting they certainly had no idea for what. We had had the celebrated "chupatties" in our district; but I am almost inclined to think more has been made of them than was their due. The village watchmen received them, and forwarded them, or similar ones, elsewhere, as they were requested to do; but all agree that the watchmen had no definite idea of what was meant. If the transmis- sion of these cakes was only intended to create a mysterious 8 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. uneasiness, that object was gained. But if the affair was a signal for united action, it failed altogether, and ended in a bungle, for no united action took place. And it must be remembered that the circulation of chupatties is a super- stitious practice not unknown in Central India, resorted to, we are told, in the hope of passing on epidemics. When I was leaving Agra, the Government Secretary, knowing that I had little or no experience in managing a district, kindly told me of the Mahornedan Deputy-Col- lector, Hikmut-Oollah, at Futtehpore, and recommended me to lean on him as a man of complete acquaintance with that part of the country, intelligent, tried, and entirely to be trusted. As soon as I arrived, he, of course, came to see me, and I found him tall, but with rather a stooping, invalid figure, of pale, olive complexion, and with reticent eyes eyes, that is, from which he withheld all expression, till he could form some idea of my character. He had the grave, graceful manners of his race ; but the impression he pro- duced on my mind was that of a person astute rather than frank, and whose behaviour would be coloured by his opinion of his official superior. Somehow, he reminded me of the Italian secretaries one sees in a picture gallery, with their black velvet doublets and delicate lace collars, and their calm, mask-like faces. During the ominously tranquil time I have described tranquil, indeed, only in our immediate neighbourhood, for the administration was breaking down in all directions the Deputy-Collector hardly ever came near me. When he did, and the conversation turned on the state of the army, he affected to ignore any serious danger from Sepoys without discipline, and alienated from their lawful leaders. This INTRODUCTION. was exactly the tone of Wulleedad Khan. But the daily report from the treasury was kept up as usual. Generally the Subahdar came himself. He was a Brahmin, and though I naturally expressed no doubt of his fidelity, he seemed particularly anxious to impress upon me that I might entirely trust him. Indeed, one morning he rose from his seat abruptly, opened his coat, and drew out his sacrificial thread, and holding it up in his hand, he exclaimed in a strong voice, ''If I am not faithful to the Government (Sircar), Collector Sahib, may Gunga strike me dead!" But when the Subahdar did not come in person, a slight, pleasant-faced old Jemadar took his place, and I could plainly see that his mind was greatly distressed. His heart was not in the mischief, and yet he dared not make any dis- closures. He spoke in a mournful voice, and always asked what the news was from Allahabad. Once in answer to my question, "Well, are your men still quite in hand?" " Oh, yes," he said, " all is right." And then, after a short pause, he added, " But the young are obstinate, and if they get the wind into their heads, they won't listen to advice." But though he thus indicated that things were not what could be wished, he would go no further. I think he was afraid if he told me anything definite, I might ask the Subahdar if it was true. At last an afternoon came which was cloudy and overcast, and after luncheon, we opened the windows and Venetian blinds towards the west, and sat out in the verandah. There was a purple haze over the distance, and a sound of guns was distinctly heard. The firing had been going on since mid-day, but we had not known of it in the muffled house ; and every now and then the deep rumble of heavy 10 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. ordnance came rolling over the fields. We were witnesses, through our hearing, of an historical event, for the Nana was attacking Wheeler's entrenchment for the first time. The day was, therefore, June 6th. The Sub-Collector, posted half-way to Cawnpore, had been told to write all in- telligence he could gather, and that evening a letter arrived from him, full of extravagance. "What Roostums were these, who, a mere handful, were resisting hordes of their enemies 1 What courage ! what resource ! The pen refused to proceed, and bowed itself down before qualities which it would require a Furdoosee to rightly celebrate." This rodo- montade had to us a significance all its own. The storm was close upon us. I begin my narrative as I began it in the " Memories," but hope that this Introduction will render it less abrupt. In the last few paragraphs, I have a little anticipated events ; but I do not think any confusion will arise. WITHDRAWAL WELL, then, there we were all the men of the station, collected in the large house at Futtehpore which had been built by the last Collector. Each day our movements be- came more restricted. We generally drove in the evening, and one of the railwaymen had a tandem. This practice had to be given up. Then a day or two before the finale we heard that a party of the 2nd Cavalry, who had taken treasure to Allahabad, would be returning, and that their passage through the place might be the signal for a dis- turbance ; and it was rumoured they would perhaps join the treasury guard, and assist in removing the money. We had begun to sleep on the roof of the house, which roof was a rambling place, but approached only by a ladder, at the top of which was a door capable of being fastened. But in prospect of an outbreak of any sort, it seemed as well, this morning of the expected transit, to retain our position on the roof during the day also. The Subahdar had sent word that perfect reliance was to be placed in him, and that if the Cavalry attempted to come near the treasury he would fire into them forthwith. A Zemindar had kindly placed a number of matchlock-men at our disposal, and I sent word to the Subahdar to say that these men would be stationed in a garden not far from our gate ; that they had received instructions not to assume the offensive, but to let the ii 12 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. Cavalry pass ; then, if they heard firing at the treasury, to move on and take the Cavalry in the rear. This the man in charge of them promised to do. It seemed undesirable that any of our little garrison should take part with the matchlock men, because of their fidelity there seemed no guarantee whatever. From our roof we all watched the proceedings with the greatest interest. If we saw any of the Cavalry they could only have seemed like distant forms moving behind the trees. The sound of hoofs, however, was distinct. They passed the garden, where the match- locks were, at a trot, and then there was a halt ; and as we afterwards learnt, one or two men were sent to parley at the treasury. Again we heard the sound of hoofs, and soon after a messenger came to say that the Cavalry had gone on to Cawnpore. It seemed right that the Subahdar should have credit for the result, whether accidental or not. So Mac- naghten, the assistant magistrate, and I rode down to the guard. All the Sepoys had their muskets, and the Subah- dar was in a glow of self-satisfaction, as he ordered us seats, and exclaimed : " I told you there was no cause for apprehension." It seems that some zealous Mahomedans had gone out of the town to meet the Cavalry, and to tell them to beware of an ambush which the English had laid for them in a garden adjoining the road. They rode out of the street, therefore, in the greatest trepidation, and if they ever intended coming to the treasury, gave up the idea, and sent an embassy to the guard, with whom, how- ever, the Stibahdar refused to treat. Things cleared a little for that day, and we dined below. It occurred to us, however, that the punkahs were sources of danger, because, WITHDRAWAL. 13 if they had been set on fire, the rafters would have caught, aud our stronghold, the roof, have become untenable. So, when dinner was over we cut all the punkahs down and brought them outside. Some thoughtless tongue said : 'Let us burn them !" and the suggestion was immediately carried out. The wretched things were as dry as tinder, and flared up in a most prodigious way. So great a blaze would create alarm in the town, and attract the most un- necessary attention ; but what could we do 1 The fire was easy enough to Hght, but impossible to extinguish ; so we could only wait, our anxious faces lighted up with the brazen glare. In the midst of the unwelcome illumination, a peasant arrived, breathless with terror, and said there was a body of Cavalry in the next field. We withdrew to the roof, but the horsemen passed away. They belonged, we were told, to an Irregular regiment, and were desirous of moving westward without adventures. Next day was a morning of troubles. News was brought that the mass of convicts had been let loose at Allahabad, and that numbers were entering our district. The peasantry, too, were getting unsteady. Groups of them were seen wandering towards the station, and, we soon heard, were carrying off doors and wood or iron work of any description they could get possession of, from the un- occupied bungalows. Sinister reports also came that our jail was in danger. The Darogha was in communication with the Subahdar as to whether he should release the prisoners, and the Subahdar was favourable to the pro- position, thinking, probably, that if they broke out they might give trouble about the treasure, but would disperse if merely dismissed. We knew that the 6th N.I. had gone 14 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. at Allahabad, and were certain the party at Futtehpore was only meditating how the booty could be got away. Early in the afternoon we saw from the roof a great number of people approaching from the city. They gradually ad- vanced to our gate, and then the main body stopped, and one or two men came forward. I say we saw, meaning those who were on watch saw, for individually, feeling the great heat, I had fallen asleep in one of the dark, spacious rooms within. It was announced that the Deputy-Collector wished to speak to me ; and, going out, I found my Italian Secretary friend with a sword, and an assumed warlike look scarcely suiting him. He introduced one or two Mussul- mans with guns in their hands. He told me that things were getting very awkward, that there was a growing disposition to disregard authority, and that under these circumstances the principal Mahomedans had armed themselves and their retainers, and were pre- pared to keep the public peace as far as they could ; that they 'had come up to pay their respects to the English authorities, and that nothing but necessity would have caused them to take the law into their own hands. He added that our presence was a great source of irritation, and that if we withdrew for a time he thought the excitement would go down. As for our attempting at present to support the British Government, it was alto- gether out of the question. I said in reply that we were quite willing to credit himself and his friends with loyalty, or at any rate with the absence of any hostile intentions, till we had reason to think otherwise ; that, with regard to our movements, they were undecided ; but that should any emergency occur I should rely on Mahomedan assistance in WITHDRAWAL. 1 5 keeping order. As he was turning away I said to him privately : " If I go, it will only be for a month's leave." He laughed and replied : " In that case, we shall meet again." We did meet again ; he in the dock, I in the witness-box. There was one more day June the 9th, as I take it. All the forenoon we saw the peasantry rushing about the fields. It gave the idea of a Jacquerie an agricultural tumult with immense excitement but no defined object. The railway engineer of the name of Bews lived within sight of the roof, and though he had his things mostly with him, yet furniture and some closed boxes were left over at his place, and he beheld with anguish swarms of dark figures hovering round his dwelling. He was very anxious to know the law on the subject. u I have no authority, of course," he said ; " but if a man comes into my house, I suppose I may prevent him taking my property 1 " It was held that he had a perfect right to defend his goods, and so, taking his chum with him, he rode off, armed, into the thick of the fray. It was, however, of no use. The peasants fled before him and his friend ; but their numbers were so great that, as he cleared one side of the house, they over-ran the other, and his labours were wholly in vain. It has been mentioned that the subject of a withdrawal across the Jumna had been discussed by the Judge and my- self, and had always met with disapproval from him. Not that he had the slightest belief in our being able to hold out ; but he thought that the move should be made in the direction of Delhi, and that the gallant Subahdar and his men would escort us till we could join our countrymen in the North. The forenoon was naturally one of anxious 16 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. thought. Cawnpore, Allahabad, and Rai Bareilly just over the Ganges, were all lost for the present. Should Banda go, or even that portion of the district of Banda adjoining Fiittehpore, we should be completely caught in a trap. As for saving the treasure, it had really passed out of our custody into that of the Subahdar, and our presence in the district was not contributing in any way to order, or to the protection of life and property. The question was stay and meet the chances of a very hopeless future, or go, whilst the road is still open, and join the fortunes of our comrades in the next district of Banda 1 I do not pretend for a moment that the natural love of new adventures, and the equally natural dislike of being cooped up in a hole, had nothing to say to our decision. But looking back upon it, after a long term of years, it seems to me a proper decision dictated by common sense, and not blemished in any way by unworthy motives. Our plans, then, were fixed and agreed upon after debate, by all except the Judge, whose house was near the guard, and who slept amongst the Sepoys, but often came to meals with us. However, that evening, at five o'clock, I got hold of him, and we walked up and down in a little plot grown with oleander, vinca rosea, and so on. He knew my views perfectly, and therefore I had only to tell him that we con- sidered the emergency had now arisen. I had been in- formed that the jail would positively be thrown open the next morning, and, from what had been reported about the Subahdar, there could be little doubt that he was only waiting to throw off the mask. The Judge said that he himself had heard some disloyal language at night; he thought the younger Sepoys were excited, but would obey WITHDRAWAL. their officer, and that he was staunch. He had a great idea we should be insulted if we passed through native States as fugitives from a falling empire. Restoration if restoration was to come at all would spring out of Delhi, and that was the rendezvous. To a certain extent he was right. But to talk of going to Delhi and to get there were different things. I told him our plans, mentioned that we had determined to leave late that night for Banda, and entreated him to join us. But this he positively refused to do, and would not even stay dinner, but made up his mind to go home. He shook me by the hand, wished every success to our adventure, said he hoped himself to be soon on the road to Delhi, and we parted, to meet no more in this world. As this is the most painful recollection which I retain in my mind, I am anxious to dismiss it ; but, upon doing so, will simply relate what occurred to this ill- fated gentleman. The sources of information are reliable, and the account of the Judge's end may be received as authentic. He returned to his house from the guard next morning early, and perhaps in the night had heard some expressions which set the question of the disloyalty of the Sapoys at rest, for he at once sent word to the Deputy- Collector (the Italian Secretary) that he wished to go to Banda, could he assist about horses for the journey 1 The person thus applied to sent back a message that it was not in his power to offer any assistance. It seems likely, as our jail was opened that morning, that the roada were pretty full of rough characters. The Judge mounted his horse, with his rifle slung behind him, and proceeded into the town. Perhaps he intended to call personally on the Deputy-Collector. I think it probable, however, that by 1 8 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. that time there was considerable excitement amongst the lower Mahomedans, and that he met with some contumely, if he was not even attacked. That he used his rifle several times there is no question ; and he was not the man to do so except in circumstances demanding such an extreme measure. Then he returned home and ascended to the roof of his office, a convenient oblong space which he had often said was suitable for defence. Here he spent some time, till a large body of men were seen advancing from the town. They had banners and symbols typical of the Moslem Faith, and a copy of the Koran was carried open before one of the number. They advanced to a space beneath the Judge's office, and several fire-arms were dis- charged towards the gaunt figure standing against the sky, deadened in its colour by the heat. There was a sharp return from the roof. Again a silence, broken only by the monotonously-muttered passages from the Koran. Again a discharge. And struck by a bullet in the forehead, Robert Tucker sank to rise no more. Thus a brave, unselfish, honourable, and nobly aspiring man passed away from earth. An excellent person, the late Dr. Duff, with no wish, I am sure, to cause pain to others, publicly wrote that Tucker alone fell at the post of duty. It was not so. He, in staying with the Sepoys, we, in going to new fields of action, each thought we were doing the thing that should be done. That point does not trouble me. I sometimes think that as we were several and the Judge was one we should have tried to oblige him to come with us. I trust the delicacy of the situation will excuse us in the eyes of good men, if there was here any failure of decision. 1 1 In the " Kaye-Malleson History," affairs at Futtehpore are not WITHDRAWAL. 1 9 The faithful Badul Khan, a table attendant who had been with me from the Srst, prepared us a more than usually careful dinner that night. He was not coming with us, nor indeed were any of our servants, except the syces or grooms. They were anxious, as they might well be, about their families, and their trifling goods and chattels, and leaving the Doab seemed like emigration from their own country. We can only, any of us, relate our own ex- periences in such matters, but I have not the slightest in- gratitude to complain of in the case of native servants. They knew of our going, expressed the warmest wishes for our prosperous journey, and the hope that we should all soon meet happily again. I scarcely like to think of the dressing that night before dinner, and putting on suitable clothes should a prolonged absence from the washerman take place. It was more like being sent to school by one's mother than anything else. For my two Hindoo servants from Muttra were forestalling every contingency. One small bag was taken, but elaborate instructions were given as to where the little knick-knacks of the toilet could be found. " If I put my hand in one corner there would be a quite correctly narrated. Small blame, indeed, to the authors of a work where details are so prodigiously numerous. Sir T. J. Met calfe was never with us at Futtehpore ; he was, of course, at Delhi Such mistakes do not matter. But one statement I must notice. At p. 76, vol. vi. (new edition, 1897), this passage occurs : " Futtehpore was subsequently the battle-ground whereon Have- lock, three days after the death of Mr. Tucker, defeated the troops of Nana Sahib." Mr. Tucker was killed on the 10th of June, and General Have- lock entered Futtehpore on the 12th of July. This is of importance, because, if Mr. Tucker could remain in safety at Futtehpore, we ought not to have left. But, in fact, Mr. Tucker's death took place before we readied Banda. 2O DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. comb, and down in another was the shoe-horn," and when it came at last to my saying " That will do, it is dinner time now," they both knelt down, clasped me round the knees, and wept like children, and to speak the truth, I had a good cry myself ; short, sharp, relieving, and un- witnessed by the scornful. With a view to detaching little articles likely to excite cupidity, I gave a large gold seal of my father's, which I was very fond of, to Nekram, one of the bearers, and bade him take care of it. He received it without a word. Some months afterwards, when I was at Cawnpore, and communication with Agra was not yet opened up, I was sitting in a verandah, when a grimy figure in torn clothes, sunburnt and travel-stained, fell, as it were, from the sky at my feet. He took off the greasy coils of his turban, let down the long tail of hair worn by the bearer caste, and from amongst its plaits took out the old family seal ! Nekram had not belied his trust : he had struggled through the turbulent country-side from Agra to deliver this seal to its owner. There was one member of the household not told of our departure, and as he afterwards became rather a notoriety in a small way, I may just mention who he was. The first Bishop of Madras, named Corrie, was a relative of mine. Appointing him to Madras was an instance of putting a round man in a square hole, for he had been one of the early Missionary Chaplains, a contemporary and friend of Martyn, Brown, Thomason, and others, and had spent his whole life in Bengal and the North-West. He was fond of proselytising, and having, like other Evangelicals of that day, rather perplexed ideas of the tenets of the Latin Church, had considered it a triumph of the Gospel to re- WITHDRAWAL. 21 ceive into his own communion a young Catholic, whose full names were Joseph Emmanuel De Bourbon. The convert was of astounding parentage, his father being a French half-caste in the military service of Bhopal, and his mother of Armenian, or half- Armenian origin. He spoke English very fairly, or, at any rate, with only picturesque inac- curacies ; and, having a certain readiness about him, had been employed by my uncle in preaching, and, indeed, had been taken by him to England, where he had appeared on religious platforms in the capacity of "Our Indian Brother." When I was at Agra he found me out. He was in poverty living, entirely in the native fashion, in the bazaar. His lodging was in Padretollah, a quarter where priests have been located, more or less, since the days of Akbar. It is right, however, to say that though Joseph retained to the last a great love of the priests, he never showed any wish to return to his old Church. There was a slight trace in his manner to me of the sentiment that he was one of the achievements of my family, and as such fairly chargeable on my civil list. So by degrees he often came to eat at my place, and at last to live at it. He regulated his habits entirely after Indian models, with the exception of sitting in a cane arm-chair, and using a small round table. He was now very old, apparently infirm, and capable, moreover, of passing as a native without difficulty. To take him on a wild and uncertain journey was thought impossible, and there seemed nothing for it but to privately commend him to the good offices of Badul Khan, who promised faithfully to look after him, and to keep him in ignorance of our movements. The last dinner having been discussed, we drank " To a 22 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. lucky excursion," on the roof of the house. Then we de- scended quietly to the porch. It was past eleven, and a darkish night, and the forms of our horses, and that of a dog-cart, on which our slender baggage and some money- bags were placed, were only dimly discernible. Three sowars, who had promised to attend us, were duly present. To dissemble the gravity of the moment, I said to Badul Khan : " You will be sure to take care of the canary and the little red parrot ! " The answer implied a quite solemn acceptance of the trust. 1 Then " Salam Sahiban " was murmured by many voices, and we slowly moved off. When we got out on the country road, under the trees, there was a sense of relief ! The doubt and anxiety passed for the time ; the step was taken, and we had to make the best of it. I was rather on the look-out for the prisoners from the large jail at Allahabad, for some had been seen about the day before, at Futtehpore, and one of our party had met a man with a cricket-bat, which looked like the proof of some looting expedition. But no, we met no one ; and kept quietly on our way, not caring to reach the Jumna before daylight. The fields lay very still around, and there were no sounds but those of night birds or jackals, or a watchman shouting from a distant village. There was, however, a place some little distance from the river, big enough to be designated, in up-country phrase, a "bustee," and this had a bad character. The people were often im- plicated in boat robberies. It lay off the road, but a single street straggled out, and the traveller advanced for a short 1 The birds were taken to Allygurh and made over to an old friend of mine, a Rajah in the district. But he, poor man, was himself looted by Mewaties, and my cages passed into that lawless tribe. WITHDRAWAL. 23 way between houses on both sides. The word was passed to trot through this. It was still dark, and there were no lights in any of the little shops. The horses' hoofs sounded on the metalled road. Good heavens ! what a hornet's nest we disturbed. We heard afterwards the place was full of convicts. There was a sense of pursuit and the avenger, I suppose, in our rapid passage. From every roof-top there were shouts : men who had been crowded together in sleep sprang to their feet, and cried out as if phantoms were upon them. The change from the silence to this hubbub was very striking. However, we held on, and soon left the seething village behind, and not long after there came a dim intimation of morning, and we found ourselves in the sand of the Jumna, working our way gradually down to the summer breadth of water. But there was no bridge of boats ; it had been broken up, and the boats taken to the other side. However, we spread ourselves out on the edge of the stream so as to be as con- spicuous as we could manage to be, and shouted to the ferry- men. There was no answer for some time ; at length a voice said with a good English accent, " Who are you 1 " We ex- plained, and then the voice replied : " Wait a few minutes, I come at once." A boat came across, and the owner of the voice turned out to be a clever and pleasant Mahomedan gentleman, who was Deputy-Collector at Banda. He little knew what singular adventures were before him, for up to that time his life had been merely one of official routine. In a year or two from that June morning he was a convict in Rangoon ; and not only so, but municipal officer of the town, and married to a Burmese lady. He explained to us 24 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. that for fear of the village we had hurried through, he had taken the boats to the other side. We, of course, made the best of our story, and said that we had withdrawn for a time from. Futtehpore, and hoped to re-occupy it soon with troops; which re-occupation indeed took place within a month from that date. The Deputy was friendliness itself said he was in tents to watch the river, but on account of the heat occupied a serai in the daytime. This building was at the edge of a good-sized village named Chilatara, on the bank. It was a large enclosure, with brick walls and double gates, and lined with rude apartments. Our host begged us to make ourselves as comfortable as we could, and he would swiftly provide something to eat. We all made such a toilet as was possible, and the little bag reminded me, sadly enough, of my two Hindoos the evening before. Then came tea in little red earthen jars, and some curry and chupatties on plates of the same ware. As the heat was stupendous, I had proposed that we should ride on in the night. But about 1 p.m., when most were asleep, the Deputy came to me and said the village was growing rather uproarious. Whether our sowars had suspected we had money in the dog-cart, and had told the villagers so, I cannot say. But there was evidently an intention to create an alarm, in the hope we should go hurriedly off without the dog-cart. Up to this, though one's orders had not been worth much, still some sort of authority adhered to us, and the behaviour of the people had been respectful. But after the Deputy had gone to see what the state of things really was, two Govern- ment peons, or messengers, came and sat ostentatiously near me. " I say," cried one, " what would you give for this thing ? " holding up his chuprass, or brazen badge. " Four WITHDRAWAL. 2$ annas," his comrade replied. " The brass is worth that but the Government?" rejoined the first speaker, with a sneer. The Deputy, on his return, declared that we must start at once for Banda, as the road would not long remain clear. Whether he had really received intelligence to this effect may be doubtful, but we gathered round the dog-cart, and conducted it like the Ark of the Covenant. On getting into the road I looked down the street of the village. There was a considerable crowd of peasants, but most of them were sitting down : some at shops, some on walls, and other elevated places; and there was a tall, stout Zemindar, with a sword in his hand, gesticulating and apparently addressing those present. The Deputy, as he was engaged in ordinary work, including police duties, had with him what is called his "Havilat," or body of persons under trial, and, to take charge of these, a few Nujeebs, with muskets. It was siiggested the Havilat people should be let go, and our movements covered by the Nujeebs. This was done. The Nujeebs, who had previously loaded, were drawn across the road, and stood there, till the dog-cart, at any rate, was in safety. The Deputy's tents were being packed ; but as soon as the Nujeebs turned towards Banda, the villagers ran in and looted the carts. However, we moved on. I had been anxious that the sowars should accompany us, not for protection, but to prevent the appearance of our be ; ng deserted by our followers. They had not intended going further, but I would not be denied, and they came. The heat was, of course about all that India can do in that direction ; but I could not complain, for, personally, I obtained some protec- 26 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. tion, as I told the syce to lead my horse, and sat with the Deputy in his little buggy. We reached a large village, and stopped for a few minutes to wash the mouths of the horses, and rest them a little. At this spot, of all conceiv- able places, a European came up and spoke to me. I could scarcely believe my eyes. What was he doing, at such a time, in a remote village of Banda? He said he was an apothecary, and bound for some military station further South. Apparently quite ignorant of public affairs and the state of the country, he seemed to be taking things perfectly easy. However, when matters were explained to him, he went and got his wife, who was in a serai a Eurasian girl and he and she stowed themselves away in an "ekka," or little covered car, and prepared to accompany us. As I was sitting with the Deputy, one of the Nujeebs came up, and nodded significantly towards Banda, as much as to say : "You had better move on." The villagers looked furtive and odd, and exchanged glances in a curious, undecided way They were anxious to know if the Deputy was coming out again, and laughed amongst themselves when he said he was. He took the Nujeeb's hint and proceeded. The great heat declined, and it was about five o'clock when we saw, ahead of us, horses, men, and a carriage under some trees. The Deputy told me he had sent a messenger early in the morning to the Magistrate, to say we were coming : he did not tell me what I believe he had added, that we thought he ought to come in with us. The group under the trees was waiting for us. There was a large coach, a regular drag, in fact, belonging to the Nuwab, with four good horses to draw it, harnessed for four-in-hand. A coachman drove the wheelers with one set of reins, and an WITHDRAWAL. 2? off-hand young Mahomedan, who said he " trained " for his Highness, sat beside to manage the leaders, their reins being quite separate. This strange collaboration worked better than might have been expected. The horses, indeed, were rather full of corn and high spirits, so they occasion- ally got into confusion, being all jumbled together as if they were playing at football, but the crown of the road was kept, and no accident happened. The two men on the box were civil enough ; but two others behind, where I occupied the guard's seat, showed the influence of the hour, and were very sullen. The Deputy stuck to his buggy, and engaged to pilot the apothecary and his wife to a place of safety in the city of Banda. We reached the station when night had fallen, and were taken to the Magistrate's house. Mr. Mayne, to prevent alarm, and keep things quiet, very properly assumed an ignorance of the crisis fast approaching his district, and expressed great regret that the Deputy had left his post on the river. He gave us an excellent dinner, and provided us each with a portion of a room. But our night-ride, our exposure to the heat, and the reaction from excitement to comparative peace, turned us into pillars of torpor, and though we got through the meal, Mayne had great difficulty in clearing his dining- room. One man got as far as the sofa, on his way to bed, but was hopelessly asleep on it in two minutes. Another fellow, when pressed to retire, rose up, turned round once or twice, sank back and dozed off again in the same chair. But rest did its work, and in the morning we were all right again. Of course, I told Mayne that I considered myself under his orders, and would undertake any task he liked 28 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. to entrust to me, and the others, I knew, would all help. When, however, the Magistrate was not engaged in keeping up the spirits of other people, I could see that his own were at a very low ebb. There was a body of Native Infantry of the first Regi- ment which had given signs of disaffection. The Nuwab was friendly, but at that time without much influence. News of fresh misfortunes kept coming in every form from the different Tuhseelees, or Sub-Collectorates. Either some underling wrote that the Sub-Collector himself had disappeared, or a Sub-Collector wrote that his chest had been robbed, or some busybody sent intelligence that Sub- Collector, chest, and all, had been seized by an aspiring farmer. Certain independent chieftains, however, beyond our border, both continued to send friendly messages and even to supply matchlock-men, so that, for the moment, the station was fairly quiet, and, as yet, in no way un- tenable. II SCENES AT BANDA THE Magistrate, as has been said, occupied his own bunga- low, and the three officers attached to the wing of Native Infantry lived in their usual quarters. It cannot be doubted that our passage through the district aided in bringing the brooding mischief to a crisis. Mayne was displeased with the Deputy-Collector for leaving the river- side ; but it is doubtful whether he could have retained his post more than a day or two longer. For, very shortly after, it was reported that a body of Irregular Cavalry had crossed the Jumna at that very place, had raised the green flag in the village, and had had the new proclamation announced by beat of drum : Khalk-i-Khuda. Mvlk-i- Padshah. Hukm-i-Sipah. That is to say " The World is God's ; the Empire the King's ; the Army is in command." We had a right, of course, to expect all Government servants to be staunch and loyal ; but, perhaps, allowance was not always made for the fact that many of the subordinate officers were not by nature suited for posts of danger, nor had they ever pro- fessed to be able to meet trying emergencies. Mayne was 29 30 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. a sanguine man, and, up to the time of the disturbances, had had a firm hold of his district ; but he could not con- ceal from himself that his authority was crumbling away, as bad report succeeded bad report, and the Thanas and Tuhseelees were, one after the other, isolated from the sudder or central station. He placed some reliance on one or two native chiefs ; and to a certain extent they did, it is believed, prevent outrage getting the upper hand. At his request some of our Futtehpore party patrolled the city on horseback before bed-time the second night. The larger merchants had engaged bodies of matchlock- men, who sat before their doors, or occupied balconies, armed and dressed in a manner highly picturesque, if only of partial efficiency. On the third night, however, of our arrival, just when we were thinking of starting citywards, there was a cry of fire, and going into the garden we saw that a bungalow in the lines was burning. One of the officers, Fraser, soon rode up, and with the most praise- worthy desire to prevent anxiety said he thought the fire was a mere accident, and that, in the hot season, thatch and timber did get uncommonly inflammable, there could be no doubt. This, perhaps, was not very satisfactory, but we thought it would do for the city. When we got down there, however, we found a good deal of excitement ; but we explained to several groups that an accident had occurred through the extreme dryness of the weather, and as the fire really was put out, and no other bungalow caught, after a time some degree of confidence seemed to be restored. It was on the third morning, I think, that an astounding spectacle broke upon my view. Who should walk in, im- SCENES AT BANDA. 3! portant and serious, to be sure, but still in an ordinary sort of way, but Joseph Manuel ? It has been said his habits were mostly native, and his dress that curious compromise affected by native Christians, smoking-cap, chupkun and shoes with strings; but on this occasion he appeared in the character of a fukeer a loin cloth, and another miscel- laneous cloth tied round his head. He stated that Badul Khan had been willing to escort him to the West, but that he had dreaded the journey, and had gone into the town to see if anyone would give him shelter. Finding, however, that the Mussulman faction was entirely at the head of affairs, he determined to start at night, and try to join us. It was from him the particulars of poor Tucker's death were obtained, and I have reason to believe they were substanti- ally true. One point only has been omitted from his narrative. He always stated that the Deputy-Collector, Hikmut Oollah, was present, and, indeed, read passages from the Koran. He was probably mistaken in this par- ticular. The Deputy was a timid and wavering man, not- withstanding his abilities ; and there seems no doubt, from what came out at his trial, that he was not at first disposed to take a prominent part in the revolt. Of course, Joseph's appearance filled one with remorse for having left him ; but his restoration to strength and endurance during these troubled times was altogether a phenomenon a possibility upon which no one could have reckoned. He had escaped molestation on the road, passing as a mendicant, and, in- deed, one Zemindar had ordered him food, and begged him to rest himself. Wonders were not to cease, for, scrambling along at night, and purchasing shelter from poor people by day, a young clerk, the only one that had remained at 32 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. Futtehpore, but who, at the last moment, could not be found, and who, as we took it, had made off turned up in Banda, and could only explain hia disappearance by a bout of dissipation, which, at least, seemed strangely unseasonable. Inquiries plainly showing that the bungalow had been fired by the Sepoys, Mayne very properly thought it neces- sary to take certain precautions. Some of the small community had, at the Nuwab's invitation, taken up their quarters in his Palace, and Mayne thought it would be well, for a time, at least, to abandon his house, and move also to the Palace, whither the Nuwab was anxious he should at once come. So we all abandoned the bungalow, and went down to the town. You entered under a handsome gate- way, and then found a large enclosure, on one side of which was one of those picturesque buildings based on Mahomedan architecture, but not devoid of incongruities and hybrid additions. There was one large hall, sufficiently enclosed, and provided with means of cooling the air, lofty and spacious, full of all kinds of old furniture, crockery, orna- ments, and rubbish of different kinds. This was our saloon. Men slept in the verandah around this place, and the two ladies in little inside apartments. The imagery of that Palace was easy enough to take in at the time ; but it has not been so easy to get rid of again, and I suppose it will remain in one's mind, as long as life lasts, connected with the ideas of suspense, anxiety, and mental trouble. The nights were fatiguing, for, in addition to the heat and mosquitoes, there was constant disturbance. Chowkeedars came and bawled, sentries kept shouting out, and patrols of sowars frequently rode by. Memory recalls most vividly the ring of the hoofs, the jingle of the bridles, and the SCENES AT BANDA. 33 excited voices asking for and giving the pass words. The Nuwah was very civil, and we were well provided for. He was a youngish man, small and slight, but very active in frame, and with a lively kind of fatuous manner about him. Very badly brought up, and pampered with every indul- gence by his elder female relations, he had gone wrong, morally, pretty well as far as he could ; but his natural disposition was easy and good-natured, and he seemed free from resentment, for Mayne had naturally often had to thwart his wishes to keep his property straight at all ; but he showed no alteration of manner in face of the misfortunes which were threatening the British power. Once or twice he came in the evening and sat with us, and I remember his offering a small contribution to the general entertain- ment. He had a figure, a leopard or something of that sort, whose head was secured by a magnet, and could be separ- ated momentarily from its body. " His Highness," cried one of his household, " will now cut off the head of this little animal." His Highness was scarcely equal to the task, having had rather too much liqueur, aniseed, or what not, and was, moreover, seized with a fit of hiccups. With the assistance of an attendant, however, he at last succeeded in decapitating his leopard, and general applause succeeded. Like most native households, the Nuwab's establishment contained one or two Christians of mixed parentage, who filled different posts connected with the servants or the estates. There was a handsome young man named Bruce, who was Agent in village management, and a stout, dark man called Captain Shepherd, who was supposed to com- mand a heterogeneous lot termed the Palace Guards. Matters were growing worse daily between the officers 34 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. and the Sepoys: the former, indeed, went as usual to the lines, but they prudently abstained from giving direct orders, as insubordination was clearly abroad. Mayne had got an idea into his head that an old dismantled fort on the river Cane could be made sufficiently defensible for a refuge in case of an outbreak. And he had been making some pre- parations for supplying it with guns and having tent equi- page taken down there. The idea of retaining his station did him honour, but this particular scheme was scarcely a practicable one. Be that as it may, in the course of his arrangements he thought that two old guns, which were located at his jail, had better be removed to the fort, both to be out of the way of the Sepoys and also to be safe in his own possession. But when he sent carts and men to the Darogha for the re- moval of the guns, this ominous answer was returned : " The Subahdar Sahib says 'No.'" There was no mistaking that, at any rate. The Subahdar had come to visit the guard, had observed the carts, had asked their object, and knowing it, had said " Hookum nakin." This news came early in the morning, I think, and naturally agitated Mayne very much ; who felt that there was scarcely room in so small a place for two Kings of Brentford. So he went to the Nuwab, and asked if he would assist in compelling the Sepoys to give up the guns. The Nuwab replied that he certainly would, and the morning was spent in arranging plans. The Sepoys h*d altogether broken with their officers, and these latter i-jid come over to the Palace. We had dinner between three and four, and Captain Shepherd was got up in uniform, and highly important ; but it was observed with some dismay that he was taking a very great quantity of sherry. The SCENES AT BANDA. 35 evening came slowly on. The Nuwab had perhaps some twenty-five sowars, got up in the theatrical tag-rag style of Palace troops, and some fifty Sepoys. Arrangements had been made about our different duties. Mayne and his com- peer Webster, a fine, well-mounted man, quite in his element in an emergency, and one or two others were to accompany the party, and, Captain Shepherd having fallen asleep, Bennett, one of the officers, was to command the Sepoys. Others were to look after those left in the Palace. The Cavalry was to be under the Nuwab himself. He got him- self up in a red chupkun, wore a sword on each side, and was greatly amused at his position. " This is strange ! Fancy me in battle ! Of course I have often knocked over things in the jungle, for sport, but I never killed a cat in anger, and now imagine ! killing a man ! " I believe he was quite sincere, and had no idea of what was going to happen. The muskets were piled in the courtyard, and everything was prepared for the expedition. The plan was to march to the jail and bring away the guns. If the Sepoys offered no resistance, well and good ; if they did, an attempt was to be made to take the guns by force. The Nuwab got on his horse, and put himself at the head of the sowars, who were all drawn up in a line by the gate. Mayne said : " We are all ready now " ; and Bennett, who was a very tall man, stepped forward and gave the order : " Unpile arms." Not a man stirred ! Bennett turned to the Sepoy next him, and saying : " Do you hear the command 1 " pushed him forward. An old Jemadar of the guard immediately drew his sword. " What ! " he cried, " is a Sepoy to be struck like a coolie?" Then complete confusion reigned for a few minutes. The 36 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. men all rushed to their arms, amidst loud cries of " Deenf Deen!" (the Faith !) and ran tumultuously out of the gate- way. The sowars hesitated for a moment ; but one of them setting the example of decamping, they all galloped out of the enclosure, leaving the Nuwab on horseback by himself ! He dismounted and came up to Mayne. There was no ap- pearance of duplicity about him ; he spoke quite collectedly and to good purpose. " This is no place for you any longer," he said. " When my own servants disobey me I am power- less. I recommend you to go to Nagode. Stay here, if you like, to-night. The Palace is at your disposal ; but I say again, I cannot trust my people any longer." I think it due to the memory of the Nuwab, who afterwards pleaded the excuse, to declare that my impression is that Mayne did say : " If I do go, I delegate my authority to you, and you must hold Banda for the British Government." Attendants were clamorous for the Nuwab to go within the private apartments. They closed around him and carried him off. Other influential natives came up and strongly urged Mayne to go before the guards returned. The decision was taken. There was some little hurry and scuffle. A phaeton, a dog-cart, and a buggy were got ready. Someone touched my arm, saying : " Here is your horse." I mounted my grey. Guided by instinct, but under no special orders, we formed a cavalcade. Joseph was promised a lift, together with some office hands, in a miscellaneous conveyance. The ladies came out and got into the phaeton. Mayne had some sowars with him ; but my three Futteh- pore men did not show themselves. The sun had gone down just as we passed out of the gateway. Ill NOMAD LIFE OUR departure from Banda came very suddenly at last, but Mayne, though his mind dwelt on his proposed refuge on the river Cane, could not but be aware that chance would likely enough decide our movements, and had felt anxious about Kirwee. For at this outpost Mr. H. E. Cockerell was en- deavouring to keep authority. Mayne had written urgently to him to beg him to come into the station, and we had been expecting him all day. The necessity for our abrupt abandonment of the Palace was that it was obvious the Nuwab had for the time lost all authority. Had his men returned with the Sepoys there is no saying what might not have happened. One or two clerks and others in connection with Mayne's office kept their eyes on his movements, and were quite ready to start with us ; but those employed by the Nuwab had confidence in him, and preferred to remain. We got clear of the town without opposition, and, indeed, without notice, and were passing under some trees in the now fading light, when a crash was heard ahead, and, riding up, I found that the Judge, who was driving a one-horse phaeton, had missed the road, and upset the vehicle into a ditch. There were two ladies in it, and one of them, Mrs. Webster, was obviously hurt, though she made very light 37 38 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. of it at the time. The carriage was wrecked, and had to be loft, and its occupants distributed in the available traps. Some sowars who had accompanied Mayne indeed, two were mounted on his horses took advantage of the im- broglio and galloped off. But two others who were in front, and could not well pass us, shared our fortunes. This is merely mentioned as one instance of many, in which natives seemed to act in the matter of fidelity on the mere impulse of the moment. As we got into the open, the sky behind us began to redden, and then, from the spreading glow, shafts of fire shot up into the air, and the illumination ex- tended to the zenith. The Sepoys had made a bonfire of all the bungalows and public offices. The effect was most striking as we slowly pursued our way along the road, rendered doubtful and gloomy by the sky at our back. Far into the night the fire blazed and quivered above its own smoke, and it was almost morning before the last lurid streaks died out of the horizon. The word was passed down about midnight to be cautious, as a turbulent village had to be passed. But sleep had calmed all passions, and as we moved through the irregular street, there were only the watchmen with their bamboo staves, curious to know who we were, but too excited and frightened to ask. As the first light of the day broke, we reached another small place, where there was a pond, and here we halted for a few minutes, and rode into the water to cool the dusty legs of the horses. Uncertain as the future was, it was an im- mense relief to be free to be out in the open air and no longer subject to apprehensions and anxiety. Scenes in " Gil Bias " and other picturesque fictions occurred to the mind, where the hero had been in a terrible fix lodged in NOMAD LIFE. 39 prison, or bound by robbers, and by some sudden turn of fortune found himself his own master again, on the high- way, prepared for new characters and fresh adventures. One's spirits rose, and what was comiag seemed of little importance in the delight of having got rid of the odious past. The Sepoys at Banda belonged to the 1st Regiment of Native Infantry, a party of them had been sent with treasure to Nagode, and it was now time they should be back again. But, although they were almost momently expected, little uneasiness was felt, as all our party were armed, and there seemed no reason to suppose the Sepoys would provoke a quarrel in which there was nothing to gain. Still it was just a sensation that it would be pleasanter when the meeting was over. After leaving the village we came to a ridge, from which there was a long slope leading down to far away, and ending in a stream. As we were descending this the declivity was very gradual we saw dust at a great distance, and this developed into a body of men with carts approaching. It was undoubtedly the treasure party. We closed in a little, and awaited events. Sepoys by themselves, on a warm day, get rid of their pantaloons, and array themselves in their comfortable loin cloths. Then they put handkerchiefs under their shakos ; but, somewhat ungirt as they looked, they all had their muskets over their shoulders, and advanced, keeping abreast of the leisurely bullock carts. There were three of the officers of the 1st with us, and Bennett, by his height, was distinguishable from afar. We passed each other quite close. The Jemadar saluted Bennett, and, as if explaining his D 4O DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. position, said : " We are returning to Banda, Sahib : and you ? " Bennett answered he was going to Nagode. " Shall you be back soon ? " the other asked, as coolly as could be. Bennett replied that his movements were un- certain. The Jemadar then saluted again, and went on. A more singular interview, surely, has not often taken place. There is no wish to add to the numberless pages in which the Mutiny has been discussed, but every eye-witness is bound to testify how far the occurrences struck him as a Kevolt, because this certainly affects the serious question of how the country was governed. People do not revolt if they are happy. Now, in Futtehpore, what had been witnessed was a claim on the part of the Mahomedans to resume an authority which they considered the English no longer able to wield, the cause of this impotence, be it remembered, being the disloyalty of the Native Army. Then, besides this, there were the high jinks of a peasantry, poor and ignorant, intent on loot, and dissatisfied with Government, not because it was the English Government, but because it was Government. And this is the Nemesis of despotism, that the people are bred up to look on Government as boys look on a school-master. To be obeyed, if you must ; and hood-winked and cajoled, if you can. Here, then, on this long slope, where we met the Sepoys, we saw a wonderful sight. The peasantry swarm- ing into empty bungalows at Futtehpore looked like revolt ; but here we saw them literally scampering over the country like so many monkeys, doing mischief in each other's villages, and occasionally having a turn up with lattees or quarter-staves in the open. This was clearly Outbreak, not Revolt. Whether the peasantry were poor in consequence NOMAD LIFE. 4! of the heavy assessment of Banda is another question. All that we then witnessed was the Witches' Sabbath of untaught, needy, unprincipled village roughs not a political demonstration at all aud I believe the case was at bottom the same in Futtehpore. It was nearly noon when we reached Kalinjur, and put up at the thana, which was in the centre of the village. We had two doctors with us, one from Futtehpore, and Dr. Clark of Banda, and the first opportunity now occurred of ascertaining how far Mrs. Webster had been injured by the upset. It was found her collar-bone was broken. It is truly wonderful how ladies will endure in silence, sustained by their courage and unselfishness. It was horrible to think what a long night of pain Mrs. Webster must have passed. But she made no complaint. In the village the sweetmeat-sellers were unwilling to serve us, even when money was offered, so that we had to put the coin down and take a reasonable quantity ourselves. In the after- noon, too, a curious demonstration took place. Some Muhajuns, or native merchants, money-lenders, and so on, who had apparently hired men to watch and guard their houses, made them all parade in a procession past our thana. They did not say anything, so the idea evidently was to upbraid us with our loss of authority. There was a disposition, too, in some of the young men towards evening to hang about and interfere with the preparations for start- ing. However, before sunset we were on the march again, and ascending towards hills which lay at some distance. And as we wound along we kept on our left the wonderful fort of Kalinjur, all dismantled, but still displaying the matchless skill with which an immensely strong natural 42 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. position had been seized on, and rendered, for all old-world modes of attack, impregnable. Whilst passing this fort, a rifle fell out of the dog-cart, and, going off, a ball was lodged in the fetlock of a horse belonging to Hutchinson, the Futtehpore doctor. He attempted to extract the ball, but finding it embedded, and supposing the horse would suffer exceedingly from movement, he took off the saddle and bridle, and abandoned the animal by the wayside. But Joseph Manuel, who was seated in some strange vehicle, with clerks and one or two old women, thought the occasion not one to be thrown away. There had been no time at Banda to attend to his wardrobe, and, therefore, he was simply dressed in a loin cloth, and a little linen cap ; the heat, indeed, rendered such an airy costume by no means inappropriate. From someone, too, he bad obtained a sword without a scabbard, and borrowing a watering-bridle from one of the syces, he secured Hutchinson's horse and mounted him. The animal was quite able to move, and seemed pleased to rejoin the caval- cade, but old Joseph was a most comical sight. Naked himself, on a naked horse, and with his drawn sword held to his shoulder with an air worthy of Marshal Schomberg, he did much to lighten the journey with laughter. All that night the road lay amongst the hills, and surrounded by scenery unfamiliar to those who dwelt in the Doab, but pretty enough as far as the imperfect light disclosed it. The region was part of the territories of the Raja of Punna, and his people were fairly civil. Water was very scarce, and at one or two guard-posts where it was found, they said it was brought from a long distance. The party were willing to pay for it, and the Punna men to accept the NOMAD LIFE. 43 offer. Mayne had managed to write from Kalinjur to Major Ellis, Political Agent at Nagode, and that gentleman had sent out a barouche for the ladies, one stage from his station. The ladies got in, and Mayne and I were asked to accompany them. A few words about Banda. The next morning after the party left was a sorrowful and sanguinary one enough. There is no reason to think that the Nuwab was in any way consenting to the proceedings, and indeed it would appear he was so far a prisoner in his own zenana that his relatives and retainers did what they could to keep him there. The Sepoys and Palace guards, and the rabble of the town, made common cause, and riot and bloodshed prevailed. Those we had passed the afternoon with were all murdered, with their belongings. Poor Shepherd and Bruce, the females of their household, and some Christians in the bazaar, met their deaths early in the morning. Cockerell yielded at last to the solicitations that he should leave Kirwee. But too late. We had hoped against hope that he might catch us up at Kalinjur. But he rode into Banda the day after we had left, before the sun had got hot. He reached the Palace gate, supposing he should soon be amongst friends. But having entered this portal, he was attacked and killed at once. It is well known that the Nuwab received and protected several British fugitives when he recovered authority, and that his mother be- haved kindly to ladies. He did very well as long as he kept Sepoys out of the station, and if fortune had favoured him he might have lived to receive thanks and honour from the Government he had seemed anxious to support. But luck was against him. There was, in the end, a great 44 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. gathering of rebels at Banda, and when they went out against General Whitlock they compelled or induced the Nuwab to go with them. I do not know whether the two swords were in requisition again ; but he was taken in arms, was deprived of his estates, put on a pension, and sent to Indore. Thence he wrote to me, 1 being pro- bably afraid of Mayne, and reminding me of the sojourn in the Palace, asked me to exert myself in his behalf. I replied that I had a warm sense of his kindness under trying circumstances, but that it would be mere presump- tion in me to come forward in a political case. And I could not but add that a home and a pension represented treatment so different from what other nobles in actual rebellion against the British power had received, that it seemed clear his hospitality and friendliness had been already taken into consideration. He died not long after. But a few years afterwards his son actually took a long journey to call upon me, and said he had often heard my name from his father. So the unfortunate Nuwab har- boured no resentment. Not being a hero, he did not exhibit heroic conduct ; but I believe, if he had been left to follow his own wishes, he would not have rebelled. Worse men had better fortune. To return to the fugitives, who got into the carriage. We were weary enough, and the easy rolling of the vehicle was very pleasant, and so, chatting away, we found our- selves in the street of Nagode. Looking out from under the hood, I was greatly surprised to see people running about in an excited way, some with bundles under their arms, some dragging children along, all in anxiety and 1 See Appendix No. VI. NOMAD LIFE. 45 expectation. It seemed a straggling, stony kind of place, the shops only occurring here and there; but some of these were closed, and at others the owners were busy fastening up the bamboo hurdles that did service for shutters. We were driving slowly, and at last came to a stand-still, when a tall, middle-aged man, in a sola topee, without a coat, but actively girdled up, and with a sword in his hand, came to the side of the carriage. "You are some of the party from Banda?" he asked. " Yes, this is Mayne, and these are the ladies." " Major Ellis will put up some, and I others. I am Cole, Assistant Agent." "I will stay with you," I said, to make a commencement of the division, and I got out. " Come along," cried Cole ; " we will go to my house presently. There is a panic going on, and I like to be here in case of being wanted. I am with the Raja." We went together to some large gates in a native house of considerable extent, and after being subjected to certain watchwords, supplied, of course, by my companion, were cautiously admitted into an archway, and the gates were shut again. Drawn down exactly in front of the entrance was a six- pounder cannon, or one, at any rate, that looked of that calibre, and in charge, with lighted port-fires, were servants of the Raja, got up in the odd toggery affected by princely retinues in the East. Cole introduced me to the Raja, a thin, rather forlorn personage, who had selected this stormy period for having a sore nose. That organ, naturally of unusual proportions, and now swollen by internal tires, was out of all proportion to the long, thin, Don Quixote face. His Highness kindly took me into a small darkened apartment where a thermantidote was 46 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. spinning softly round, and supplied, most thoughtfully, a sherbet of pomegranate or other innocuous fruit, wherewith to refresh the inner man. But there was a sort of ottoman there, covered with cool, white cloth, enticing with soft pillows, and I felt that, come what political changes might, I must sleep. We had been on horseback the whole of two nights, and what with heat and dust, and one thing or another, nature now took the matter into her own hands. I lay down, was asleep in two minutes, and did not awake again till the evening. The station was garrisoned by the 50th Regiment N. I., and iu respect to this corps, Colonel Malleson, in his " History of the Mutiny," writes as follows : " There was one station in Bandalkhand, and only one, in which the native troops stationed did not mutiny. This was the station of Nagode. The regiment there quartered, the 50th Native Infantry, stood firm to the last, fourteen men in the whole regiment having alone shown symptoms of disaffection. Nor was the misconduct of these men dis- played until a later period 27th August." From a testimony so honourable to the corps no one naturally would wish to detract by a single careless word. It remains, however, a fact that the news of the approach of the Banda caravan, exaggerated and distorted, doubtless, in native rumour, had greatly excited the men, though the excitement had been admirably guided and controlled by their officers. But the news of a considerable ferment in the lines spread into the town, and though I believe there were no symptoms of outbreak, a regular panic had set in. This was what we had witnessed in the street, and it was against the possible consequences of this that the Raja, NOMAD LIFE. 47 with his exaggerated nose, had taken warlike precautions. But when I awoke all was calm again, and the kindly Cole was present to offer the hospitalities of his house. On reaching his bungalow, I found most of the Futtehpore party ; and a parcel of rough strangers we were, uncouth in appearance, and retaining little of civilisation except a capacity for good food and beer. We were all most ably catered for by Mrs. Cole, and accommodated, obviously not with bedrooms, but with bedding or wrappings, on which sleep was admirably effected in the verandah. Major Ellis, with whom the ladies and some of our party put up (the rest being received by officers), was a scholar of some distinction, and well acquainted with the history of the part of the country in which his duties lay, the legends of the Bhondelas, Bhagelas, and so on. He had accumulated an extensive and valuable library, and, with the natural affection of a student for his books, felt great apprehension for its safety. He might well do so. During the subse- quent troubles of the autumn, the agent only abandoned Nagode for a single night, when he visited the Raja of Punna, who had always asked him to come in case of emergency. On his return, of the volumes and manu- scripts he had sedulously collected for thirty years not a vestige remained. The whole library had been reduced to ashes. Kindly treated and comfortable though we were, Mac- naghten and myself were very anxious to push on, and get within hail of our Commissioner. The party that had arrived from Banda in some measure broke up, for the officers of the 1st Regiment who had accompanied us were put nominally under arrest, to enable them to account for 48 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. their absence from their corps. And as the country around was fairly safe, it was not necessary that onward movement should be pursued in absolute caravan fashion. As Macnaghten and I were inquiring who were bound for Rewah, and ultimately for Mirzapur, it was reported to Major Ellis that we were contemplating a start, and, prompted certainly by some good public motive, he wrote an official letter to me saying that, as he might possibly be able to employ our services, he must forbid our leaving Nagode. We wrote back that our move, far from having as its object escape from duty, was simply dictated by the desire to put ourselves at the disposal of our own Commis- sioner, and we felt sure Major Ellis did not wish to transfer officers from one part of the country to another, without definite authority for the purpose. He wrote back that he did not so wish, and we started. Old Joseph was still so ill-supplied with clothes that I did not like to take him on, and Cole kindly offered shelter in his compound, so he was left, with sufficient funds to enable him to follow us, if matters got more settled in the Doab The rains were fully due, but still held off, fortunately, for heavy wet would have increased our difficulties. We were still a large party, most of the Futtehpore men, the ladies, Webster, and, for part of the way, Mayne. Night, of course, was chosen for our departure, on account of the heat, and with sincere thanks to our kind hosts off we started. The long hours brought us, before the sun was oppressively high up, to Maihere, a very pretty place, with one or more curious conical hills, which, as in the case of most of the phenomena of nature in India, had been appropriated to devotional purposes, and crowned with venerated shrines. NOMAD LIFE. 49 At this place we got on a once celebrated line of communi- cation, the Deccan Road, now greatly superseded by the railway; and on this at stated intervals were staging bungalows, so that without difficulty we proceeded till we reached Rewah, the capital of the independent kingdom of that name. For the sake of accommodation we did not keep always together, but broke up in twos and threes so as to use the bungalows in turn. When the party I was with reached the staging house at Rewah, we were received by a youngish English officer looking indeed younger than he really was well dressed, jaunty and amusing, who gave no sort of impression of being in any responsible position, and did the honours of the bungalow as if the poaching of eggs and the currying of fowls were on the whole as important duties as life presented. But this airy and wholly wonder- ful person was Lieutenant Willoughby Osborne, a young Political, who was performing the astounding feat of keep- ing Rewah quiet, entirely by himself. A solitary European without a comrade a soldier, you may say, without a regiment was by sheer force of character overawing the authorities of Rewah. The King had made off to a jungle fortress at that particular juncture ; but shortly before we arrived a Durbar had been held, where the Sudder Ameen, who was a Mahomedan, had spoken against the British Government, and on hearing him (or learning about him, he may possibly not have been present), Osborne insisted on the King putting him under arrest, and was so urgent that his wishes were actually carried out, and the Sudder Ameen found himself in prison. To give the impression of being gener- ally aware of what was going on, Osborne moved about a 50 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. good deal, travelling hither and thither on the mail cart still remaining in these territories. As he was passing a village on one occasion, a Brahmin, who seemed to be a man in authority, took the opportunity of calling him what may be translated as a " blackguard Feringhee," or " Frank." An ill-fated speech ! Osborne stopped the cart, descended, seized the Brahmin, tied him behind with the horse's heel- ropes, and started again. After a long run of some miles the breathless one was relieved at an uncomfortable distance from his home, with the recommendation to be more circumspect in his language for the future. I hope our company was some gratification, after such anxious solitude, to this brave and remarkable man. His society was certainly most exhilarating to us, giving us increased trust in our cause, and a desire to aid it to the best of our powers. The rains still held off. One could not but remember how, in former years, one had watched the sky in the over- powering heat for symptoms of coming disturbance, whilst now as great desire was felt that the dry sunshine might last a little longer. It lasted, but the mornings and the evenings were growing overcast, and at length we ap- proached Mirzapore, Bews having given me a seat in his dog-cart, and as we sat there strange figures wrapt in native blankets we could scarcely wonder at the rain which descended in torrents, and danced and glinted from its own puddles on the road. On, on through the stream- ing streets and under the dripping trees till we pulled up at the noble old house then occupied by the Magistrate, but afterwards usually the home of the Judge, till, some years later, during my tenancy, it ceased to be so ; for the NOMAD LIFE. 51 hungry river gnawed the banks around it, and left it if more conspicuous uncomfortable, and only moderately safe. We were welcomed by St. George Tucker, brother of the gentleman I had parted from in the little garden-plot at Futtehpore. And standing by him, as his Assistant, was a young man whose subsequent brilliant career is known to all Charles (now Sir Charles) Elliott. I would mention a trifling incident as illustrative of the times. After de- scending that remarkable Steep which separates the table- land of Rewah from the valley of the Ganges, we reached a staging bungalow, where a native Raja, belonging to the Allahabad district, was awaiting our arrival. Eggs in pro- fusion, plenty of milk, all the vegetables in season ; hay for our horses, sweetmeats for our men all were forthcoming. And I " must write a certificate " to say how we had been welcomed ; for of the loyalty of a Prince, who catered for English nomads without even being asked to do so, who could doubt ? " Perhaps I would especially remark that the Raja who held this testimonial had warmly espoused the British side." Would you learn the cause of our host's solicitude 1 Neill had reached Benares ! IV MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS IT was Sunday, but we had lost note of time, and were only recalled to the fact when St. George Tucker suggested after- noon church. The little fabric used for Divine service was just opposite his gate, and was of the order of architecture which might be called " gimcrack." It looked as if one so disposed might lift it off the ground, put a pastille under it, replace it and allow the fragrant smoke to issue out of the little steeple. However, as Tucker simply remarked, "de- votion was pretty well the only stand-by left." So we, in due course, when refreshed and dried, assembled and heard prayers read. The position of Mirzapore was peculiar ; *he Sepoys had not mutinied, and there had been no outbreak in the city. It was said that owing to the suggestions of Colonel Pott, who commanded the regiment the 47th and through whose admirable arrangements it was kept at least from open sympathy with the rebel cause, many of the Sepoys who had saved money had lent it out at interest. Neither a sudden break-up nor a rising of the rabble suited, there- fore, the views of these men. Still, the feeling was very far from being one of security; recent events at Benares had created great excitement, and there was the chance that the Sepoys might break out from apprehension of attack ; 5 2 MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS. 53 whilst in the city the merchants and bankers were timid and cold-hearted, and there had always existed, beside and around these, a strong element of bad characters. The atmosphere, however, at the Magistrate's house was one of hope and calmness. We had, of course, to keep our onward progress steadily in view, and hearing that a steamer was expected with troops for Allahabad, it seemed a good plan to secure a passage, and let our horses come after us by road. Our party had gradually dwindled; the ladies were moving South; on others Allahabad had no claim; Mayne had gone back Rewah way, to remain near his own district. But we were still five or six, and being informed that the steamer had arrived, and having made arrangements with our servants, we went down to the river bank. The steamer was duly there, and we went on board, and found it full of men of the 64th Queen's. We were just arranging to stow away our traps, when Major Stirling, who commanded the detachment, came up, and though he was perfectly courteous, yet he remonstrated, strongly enough, against our coming on board. He said the crowding was un- comfortable as it was, that the boat had knocked a hole in her bottom, which had only been tinkered up, that she moved very slowly, and any additional weight, however slight, was undesirable. Macnaghten, excellent fellow as he always was, keeping the goal steadily in view, urged that we ought to persevere, notwithstanding the fact that we were clearly unwelcome. But Bews and I thought that if the boat was so slow, the object of our going in it was in a measure removed, and at last it was decided that we should land again, and at once start by road. And this we 54 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. did, returning to St. George Tucker's house, waiting till sunset, and then mounting and riding down to the ferry. After crossing the river we proceeded gently along gently indeed, perforce, for we did not intend to stop for more than baiting till we reached Allahabad. About eleven at night we struck the main road from Benares, and found the dak bungalow, at that point, occupied by English soldiers. There were tents in the enclosure, and a couple of officers were still sitting in the verandah smoking. They were rather entertained at the idea of a small party of their countrymen riding about in the night, and were desirous of acting as hosts. Escorted by them, we visited the kitchen, their messman kindly supplied us with food and beer, and we sat under the trees and discussed our welcome provender. On inquiry it was thought I was the lightest sleeper, so the rest lay down under a neem-tree for a snooze from which I was to awake them. I fastened my bridle to my arm, and knowing that my horse, being an Arab, would avoid trampling on me, or hurting me, I slept myself ; but, of course, under my existing responsibility, the sleep was for little scraps of five or ten minutes only, causing me to start each time to wonder why on earth I should be in bed on the ground, and have a horse tied to me. At last it was two o'clock, and I ruthlessly made the others get up, and off we went. I recollect seeing two men hanging on a tree near this place, and in the dim light they looked ghastly enough ; but I believe they had paid a just penalty, being two of the Zemindars who had betrayed and murdered young Moore in their village a few days before. We rode on till daybreak, and then, after a little consultation, de- cided to hold on as long as we could, make one halt, and so MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS. 55 push on to Allahabad by night-fall. The weather was overcast, but not wet, and we persevered till past noon, and then pulled up at a dak bungalow Travelling was per- fectly safe ; troops had passed up the road, and, indeed, the journey was melancholy from desolation rather than excit- ing from adventure. In the strips of village streets adjoining the highway the shops were latticed up with bamboo hurdles ; other dwellings showed traces of having been fired, and there were very few people in sight anywhere. Some unnecessary violence had, perhaps, been shown by those passing up- wards, but, of course, much excitement prevailed. Many wild stories of the treatment of isolated Englishmen by natives were abroad, and Thomas Atkins, naturally enough, found it difficult to draw distinctions, so the very sight of a black man made him rather uproarious. We were soon in the saddle again, and reached the ferry opposite Dara Gunj, at Allahabad, by sunset. The river had risen a great deal from rain up-country, and we had some little trouble with the young fellows managing the boats. They were in a flighty, disobedient mood, and on our threatening one of them he jumped overboard, so that we had to be a little diplomatic. I had written to our Commissioner, Mr. Chester, from Mirzapore, and he kindly came down to meet me in his buggy. Of course he had much to tell, for I was only partially acquainted with the strange events that had taken place at Allahabad. The whole story is so well known that I will not dwell on it for a moment, but I may mention one circumstance 1 have never seen in print. Besides the trouble which the Sepoys, rebels, and bad characters of the 56 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. place had given, some difficulties also had arisen from our own countrymen. Indirectly connected with the railway was one romantic and remarkable young man, the son of an eminent geologist, who could not refrain from eccentric acts. When the town was in its most ticklish state, and the Sepoys only too anxious for any pretext for offence, this youth must needs go and shoot a cow that had strayed into his compound. He seemed quite unaware that he had done anything imprudent, and spoke of the animal rather as a fera naturae which he had discovered in his own domain. After the outbreak had taken place, and as soon as our people began to leave the Fort, this strange man was bitten with a desire to become a pirate. He rigged up a boat, put on board a quantity of loot he found lying about, and cruised up and down the river in his mysterious bark, amusing himself, amongst other employments, with a piano he had picked up in some deserted bungalow. That he would have been heard of generally, for good or evil, seems certain, as he was out of the common run, but death from fever or cholera put an end to his whimsical career. Chester drove me to the Red Lion, the name given to a large house which had formerly been occupied by the Judge, but was now used as a civil barrack, and in which were collected a company of local civilian refugees from Oudb, railway engineers, and others. I was introduced to Dr. Irving, who had charge of the mess, and who was good enough to admit my comrades and myself to the privilege of the Club as long as we stayed. We soon sat down to dinner, and then, of course, we heard the current news. Havelock had arrived, and was only awaiting carriage to proceed to Cawnpore. Renaud, of the Madras Fusiliers, MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS. 57 had started with his detachment to prepare the way for the coming brigade. We were all talking without special know- ledge, and as people do talk who are not behind the scenes, freely and critically, and it may perhaps be added, foolishly. But the general feeling was one of regret that Neill should have been superseded. He had established a reputation for great decision of character at Benares, and he seemed so especially suited for the work in hand. Then, too, as some delay was now taking place about transport, for which, probably, General Havelock was in no way responsible, it pleased us uninstructed critics to think that Neill would not have bothered about carts and bearers, and that the hitch was the fault of the new Commander. All our beds stood side-by-side ; there were five or six in the verandah where I lay, so one could not complain of lone- liness. After breakfast, the next morning, I and another strolled out. It was quite cloudy and overcast, and coming at length to an open space we found a gallows on which nine men were hanging. The odd thing was there was not a soul in sight. There was a bazaar not far off, but it was de- serted, and these nine dead men were absolutely by them- selves. The state of affairs, when reprisals began at Allahabad, has been described by others, and I have no wish to judge of actions that were doubtless intended to make short work with the disaffected, and so speedily end the necessity of punishment at all. But something was said about " making examples " by stringing up people for slight offences. The nine coolies by themselves seemed to answer that notion. The native community would not have cared a straw if a thousand coolies had perished. It was, I think 58 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. on our return from this rather uncomfortable walk that we saw a well-horsed mail phaeton driven by a veterinary surgeon known for his turns-out. By his side was sitting a tall, broad, and full-fleshed man in Khakee uniform dress, and a turbaned helmet. He descended to see the Magis- trate, and make some inquiries on business. Very free- spoken, animated enough in his manner, and defiant rather in gesture, he was a man about whom interest was at once excited. As it was the first time I had seen him, I did not know who he was. But the rumour soon spread that it was Neill who had come. Of course, one looked more minutely at him then, for he was quite the hero of the hour, and certainly for decision, command, dash, and all that is neces- sary to inspire confidence and insure obedience, he looked every inch his reputation. Chester told me that afternoon I was to go with General Havelock when he started, but it was not certain whether he would be able to march the next day or not. It had not rained since the day we reached Mirzapore, but each even- ing clouds were thickly collecting, and we went to bed usually expecting a torrent. But the clouds blew off again. Two days, if not more, passed ; and at last one morning positive tidings came that the General would start that afternoon. The camp had been sent on a mile or two out of Allahabad, and on the afternoon of the 7th of July the troops left the Fort of Allahabad. I had made all the little arrangements I could : chiefly with the view to great wet, which we knew was upon us. A sergeant's "paul" had been assigned to me, and Bews, with whom I had left Futtehpore, was to share it. A large curtain over an ex- aggerated clothes-horde will do for a description of a "paul." MAKING FOR HEADQUARTERS. 59 We sent on two horses, and, after luncheon, borrowed a buggy for it had come on to rain outrageously and drove to camp. The fields where the camp was set up were a sea of mud, and as evening was coming on we struggled into our tent, where we were very uncomfortable indeed. There was nothing to eat or drink ; the earth steamed up, and we sat on our beds, drenched as if in a vapour bath. Insects of all sorts were attracted by our light, and either dashed into the flame, or singed their wings and fell on the table. All the noises of the rains were present : frogs and earth-crickets with, at intervals, the splashing of showers and bubbling of water-courses. Bews and I were laughing at our plight, when I heard my name called. It was Lynch, an officer I had known in the hills. By rapid travelling he had just managed to catch the advance, and he was accompanied by another officer, named Sheehy. They had got leave to march with the force, but no sort of arrangements could be made for them, and so, portmanteaux in hand, they had come to ask for shelter. Four men in a sergeant's " paul " is close packing ; but Bews and I said : " If you can put up with the space, you are welcome to it." They would have slept under a parasol, and were quite satisfied. But the night was wretched. When the bugle sounded at two in the morning the idea of any change was a relief. HAVBLOCK'S ADVANCE; THE depression of the night wore off when one was in the saddle again, and as the rain had ceased, and the air was pleasant, by the time the bugle sounded for a halt for " little breakfast," we were all in high spirits. The camp was in a garden of trees, and it was bright and dry, and the soldiers seemed very happy, though they would go out without any covering on their heads, and chose to look on the sunshine as indicative of agreeable haymaking weather in England. I had to assist, of course, as much as possible, in getting up a bazaar for the camp followers, as soon as we reached an encampment ; and the difficulty was to pre- vent the grain and sweetmeat sellers being looted the moment they arrived. However, some help was forth- coming ; one or two men had joined as adventurers, think- ing there might be posts to fill up if we got settled at Cawnpore. A tall, handsome sowar, who looked very un- likely to be loyal, was attached to my fortunes by Chester, and a very nice young Mussulman, who, by his manners, I should think was of good birth, came to me the first evening in camp, and remained till he met a horrible death a week or two afterwards. Also a capital table : servant volunteered. These little points are mentioned because it never can be remembered sufficiently in the East how tho 60 HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 6 1 general mind is affected by disaster or success. A defeat and everyone deserts ; a victory and all throng to con- gratulate and support. At first we marched rather slowly, and there was one very sad point about the whole expedition. Sir John Kaye has thus expressed it : " It was a grand movement in advance; but, like many of our grand movements, the heart-breaking words ' too late ' were written in characters of darkest night across it." We had, indeed, left General Neill at Allahabad, refusing to believe that Cawnpore was lost. But Havelock knew better. On the 12th of July we started very early indeed, soon after midnight of the llth and presently we came up with Renaud's detachment. The men were drawn up along the side of the road. I re- member being struck, in the moonlight, with the yellow colours of the Sikhs. Then we all marched on together, and at last halted a little short of Futtehpore. 1 Barrow had a wonderful Madras servant, who was a good rider, and stayed near him on a spare horse. This man kept a small kettle and teapot slung by him, and sugar and milk in bottles in his cummerbund, or waistband, and was game to make tea in no time. He dismounted and made a fire. Willock, of my service, had gone on with Renaud, and, as we had never met, we were making acquaintance. As we were standing together, General Havelock went by the erect, slight figure, handsome features, grey hair, with the white covered and curtained cap, and the easy seat on the natty Arab a vignette very familiar to us all afterwards. I think we had got the tea, when bang went a gun, and 1 Col. Barrow commanded Havelock's handful of Cavalry. He kindly allowed me to join the Mess. 62 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. certainly not very far off. There was a complete trans- formation scene in a moment. Barrow hurried off to the head of his Cavalry, and we saw the Infantry being collected and led straight on ahead, and the guns, eight in number, pushed forward. There were two officers with whom I often found myself Dr. Domenichetti, in charge of medical stores, and Sibley, an old officer of the 64th, who had grown grey in long regimental service, was, perhaps, of West Indian extraction, and may be called, par excellence, " the Old Campaigner." He had charge of the Military Treasure Chest. We heard our guns opening, got on our horses, and proceeded along the road. As we went along we came to the dismounted gun at the culvert, and presently to the dead elephant the results of Maude's two first shots now historical ! One of our tent companions, Sheehy, was acting as Aide- de-Camp for that morning, and came and told me the General wanted to ask me some questions. So I rode up and told him what the town was like inside, and as he passed into a field near the garden walls skirting the suburbs, I went too, and with me my bearded sowar, Azim Ali. The General was apparently recognised, for some people behind the walls were plainly taking shots at him. Azim, who was close to me, said, in an undertone : " Yih achcha jagah nahin ! " (This is not a suitable place !) The remembrance of this afterwards made one laugh very much, and in subsequent adventures, when matters occasionally got awkward, the phrase recurred, "Yih achcha jagah nahin ! " The enemy made no stand whatever, and HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 63 really behaved like poltroons; but they were taken by surprise, which perhaps shows that they were not always much helped by the villagers. For they ought to have known exactly where Havelock was. Notwithstanding the barricade, the Sepoys all cleared out of the streets, our troops marched right through, and the camp was set up on the Cawnpore side. I rode through my own little town, and laughed at some pottering improvements which had been thought of, and which seemed such rubbish now. Moreover, they called to mind what I had said to Hikmut Oollah, the Deputy-Collector, that I was going "on a month's leave." I had kept my time very fairly. Here, perhaps, one word about this unfortunate man may be per- mitted. I see in Kaye's History that, on Joseph's evidence, I accused him of being an active partaker in the murder of poor Mr. Robert Tucker. I was afterwards at his trial, and think it exceedingly unlikely, both from his craven demeanour on that occasion, and from the testimony ad- duced, that he ever took a prominent part in any active proceedings against the British. He was thoroughly dis- loyal, and in one of his letters to the Nana, as far as I remember, expressed regret that he should have violated his conscience (iman) by serving the English, an odd state- ment for one of the elect to make to an idolater ; but for acts of boldness, daring, or cruelty, he was constitutionally unfit. He died in prison of a collapse of mind and body not long after his case was decided. There was hardly a person in the town. One young fellow, a jogee or mendi- cant devotee by profession, was under the preposterous idea that our soldiers would be interested in his religious freedom from partisanship. I tried to get him away, but he 64 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. was obstinate, and met his fate, receiving two or three balls into him before he succumbed. Through the town, a little way up the road, I saw some people sitting under trees, and Stuart Beatson, whom I knew, called out to me. So I pulled up, and discovered the General regaling a little, and, being kindly told to join, found a leg of chicken by no means unpalatable. Then came a ride with Colonel Fraser- Tytler to the Tuhseelee, or Sub-Collector's office, just to examine the Chamber where the treasure used to be kept. On this journey we saw a good deal of wine and beer being distributed from a merchant's godown, and the General, I fancy, soon ordered it into charge of the Commissariat. About mid-day, or shortly after, I got back to my tent, and there found some rather unpleasant neighbours. It was understood that Palliser's Irregulars had behaved that morning, when opposed to the 2nd Cavalry, with very luke- warm loyalty ; but a small group of them were quite firm, and of these some were killed. Palliser, and Simpson who was with him, were near our tent, and, in honour of the fidelity of those who had fallen, their bodies were laid out in a conspicuous place. Three black-bearded men, olive- coloured in death, with their rigid boots sticking up, were festering in the sun. Sleep came on in the afternoon, and sitting up afterwards, at the door of the tent, I observed a large strong man, with a red beard, lying near, with his head on his arm, and a blue handkerchief with white spots propped on two sticks to make a little shelter for his face. He was a man of the 78th Highlanders, and some of his mates came presently to look after him. They tried to rouse him, but, alas ! he was beyond all appeals. He had been, it appeared, indulging rather freely in the stores HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 65 which had been found in the town, and, lying down to sleep, had passed away in apoplexy. His name was Campbell. They went and fetched a charpoy, and laid him gently on it, covering his face up in the blue handkerchief he had stretched on the sticks. Then there was something said of another Campbell, and I gathered that he of the red beard had a brother in the same regiment. After a time this man appeared. He, too, had been indulging in more liquor than the weather sanctioned ; but he was soon sobered sufficiently tc understand the sad calamity. I was forcibly reminded of the grief over the dead fisherman, depicted so powerfully in the " Antiquary." The second Campbell, a younger and slighter man, was distracted with the loss that had befallen him. He sat on the ground, and wrung his hands. " Oh, brother dear ! " he cried, " shall I never see you more ? Speak to me. Speak to me. Will you never speak to me again 1 What have you left me all alone for? Brother, brother, come back to me." The bystanders made motions that they would remove the body on the charpoy. Then the younger Campbell threw himself on his brother, clasped him in his arms, and in this way, wrapped in a last embrace, they were both carried away together, I heard the bagpipes soon after, droning in the distance, as the body was taken to the grave. The station where we had all lived was perhaps a mile off, and I was not able to get up there But others went, and they found the skeleton of the Judge, which was duly placed within the precincts of the Christian churchyard. The General thought it right that an example should be made of Futtehpore, and the Sikhs were left behind for the not unwelcome task of looting and burning the place. But 66 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. other work demanded our swift advance, and in the small hours of Tuesday morning the force moved on again. I had, during my brief incumbency of Futtehpore, become acquainted by name with one of the tuhseeldars, or Sub- Collectors of revenue. He was a young Brahmin of high family, and had been brought to notice as an officer of ex- ceptional promise, displaying a laudable and apparently natural desire for everything that was progressive and elevated. He had probably less difficulty than others in following his own bent, as his sacerdotal rank screened him generally from coercion. But he seems never for a moment to have hesitated in the matter of loyalty. He made over his treasure chest to an influential Zemindar, and ensconced himself in the same man's mud -fort, till times should look better. When Renaud advanced, he put himself in communication with the force, and, after the evacuation of Futtehpore by the mutineers, sent word to me that he was coming to join us. Unfortunately, though so good a fellow, he did not at all look his character. He was immensely stout, and had a vast crop of hair, with a beard that gave him quite a Saracen's Head appearance. Added to this, he wore a large, untidy turban, which he hitched up in a manner closely simulating rebellion. And before he reached me I am afraid he did not altogether escape rough treatment from the soldiers, who could not understand how a man, whose effigy might have passed in a puppet-show for that of the Nana himself, could be a staunch well- wisher to the British cause. However, when I had got him, I knew his value too well not to try earnestly to soothe any chagrin he may have felt. His unwieldy form and odd, rolling gait soon became familiar in camp, and Thomas HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 67 Atkins and he fraternised in a manner which their first meeting gave no grounds for expecting. The morning we left Futtehpore, as it grew light, people thought more than once that they saw the " twinkling feet " of retreating Sepoys in the hazy distance. And as the day wore on, so strong an impression prevailed, that the enemy's Cavalry were watching our movements under dis- tant trees, as to produce the order for a halt. The objects, though puzzlingly indistinct, were, doubtless, cattle feeding at the edge of groves on the new grass. Before the halt there had been the tramp of feet, the rattle of the gun-carriages, the creaking of cart wheels, the hum of human voices, and the sudden pause was very striking. For, as the guns were unlimbered, and field- glasses sedulously applied to the distant trees, expectation arrested speech, and there was a dead silence. At this rather interesting moment there sounded from a neighbouring copse the cry of " Cuckoo ! " It was Words- worth's " wandering voice," the companion of the spring- time of our youth, the veritable cuculus canorus not often heard, in my experience, so far south in the Provinces of India. 1 Visions of village greens, shady dingles and dells, and the faces of pretty girls were, doubtless, brought into many minds by the familiar note. At any rate, a soldier close to me called out to his mate, in a tone about whose heartiness there was no mistake, and in words whose frank- ness need not be modified : " I say, Bill, who'd ha' thought o' the likes o' that ? Blest if it was not a damned old cuckoo ! " In the afternoon of the same day it was deemed proper 1 Jerdon, however, says it travels as far as Central India. 68 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. by the General to disarm and dismount the Irregular Cavalry, who were considered to have behaved with more than apathy at Futtehpore. General Hav clock superin- tended the operation himself. It was, doubtless, a most unwelcome duty, and everybody felt sorry for their com- mander, Palliser. If weakness it is, the weakness is more creditable than some strength to believe that those who have often gallantly followed you, will follow you to the last. One or two of the native officers, handsome fellows, with that Jewish type of face so common in the extreme North, who looked sorrowful with a haughty, wounded sorrow, refused altogether to avail themselves of the oppor- tunity of going away, and rarely allowed Palliser, or Simpson, out of their sight. Palliser 1 afterwards greatly distinguished himself; but E. H. C. Simpson died in Ireland at the early age of forty-seven. He had a brother who was so embarrassingly like him that mistakes such as overtook the two Dromios were common. It was much easier to manage supplies for the camp bazaar since the Brahmin Deputy-Collector had joined us, and the farmers began to appear. Ploughing, too, for the autumn crops was going on generally, and it was encouraging to think that confidence was being restored. Jt is quite easy to understand how, after the events that had occurred at Allahabad, the first force under Renaud looked upon their mission partly as an avenging one. There was a slight failure, perhaps, of logic in the idea, because the rebellion was being sternly put down, on the ground that the country was ours ; and reprisals, which, against the enemy's property, would have been appropriate, were not so advis 1 Sir Charles Palliser died in 1896. HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 69 able against the property of our own subjects. The enemy was the Sepoy Army, and, as far as I saw, throughout, though many of the farmers, in whose veins the old lawless blood still flowed, were against order, and in this way, against the British Government, they were not in favour of any other Government. l The " Old Campaigner," when we reached camp, used to come up and say in an undertone something of this kind : "Any sort of vegetables a little fresh milk an egg or two, and, of course, if there should be a duck going so much the better." The march on the 15th of July brought us to the out- skirts of a pretty large village called Aoug. The houses ;vere off the road, but there were walled gardens running towards it, at no great distance, and it became evident that there was a considerable force of the enemy at the spot, and that they intended to try and oppose the advance of the column. Here took place what is known as the battle of Aong and the Pandoo Nuddee., fully described by Sir John Kaye. The Pandoo Nuddee was one of those streams which, in the hot weather, present only a thread of flowing water, but are flushed in the rains, their own torrents being augmented by runnels through every ravine. The camp was set up on the Cawnpore side of the river. And here a strange incident happened. When we were at Futtehpore, just before the outbreak, Bews, himself a railway engineer, was in the habit of hearing from a brother engineer at Cawnpore. The latter was a married man, and it was a curious instance of how our countrymen kept their 1 Farmers, who had been dispossessed by auction sales, were, of course, against us to a man. 7O DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. spirits up, that he wrote very amusing accounts of what was going on, which Bews read out to us. It must be remembered that the intervention of the Nana, and his bringing the Sepoys who had actually started for Delhi back again, was a thing which neither Wheeler nor anyone else had ever calculated upon. Therefore, what was appre- hended was the first outbreak, and the general impression was, that, if this were got over, all would be well. The last letter Bews received from his friend was to the effect that a row was imminent, but, said he, " we are quite pre- pared, and if the fellows break out there will be wigs on the green." It was now nearly six weeks since that letter, and though the most ominous reports were current, there was no real certainty as to the details of what had occurred. The spot on the river bank where our little tent was going to be set up was a level area, just below some slightly higher ground, formed accidentally by the action of rains, but suggesting itself as a convenient resting-place, and, as such, it had been apparently used by an outpost of the enemy's Cavalry. For there was some of their rubbish lying there, ropes and straw, and earthen pots, one or two blankets, saddlecloths, etc. Bews had hardly entered this enclosure when his eye caught amongst the litter what he thought was a book. He took it up ; it was a leather case. He opened it ; it was a miniature of his friend's wife. When I came up I found Bews naturally greatly cut up at the discovery. There was something so very appalling in the mystery of the affair. We never had reason to think the poor lady lived to reach the horrors of the Beebeeghur, and it is not improbable that, in the confusion of moving, the miniature was left at the bungalow, was looted, and HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 71 accidentally came into the trooper's "possession. But that the one man in the force, to whom the fate of the lady was of deep interest, should find this sad memorial of her, was a remarkable coincidence. It would really have been a relief to know that she was dead, and beyond earthly trouble. But the amount of knowledge possessed by the best-in- formed was only that Cawnpore was no longer holding out. And now, as we all turned in that evening, we felt that we were on the eve of an historical day. Exaggerated accounts of the numbers of the enemy, their force of Cavalry, and the strength of their Artillery, were, of course, abroad, as they always are on such occasions ; and it was obviously of the utmost importance to the rebel cause that Cawnpore should not fall into the hands of the British. We marched at the usual hour, and by the time it was daylight, it became evident that it was going to be fearfully hot. On passing through a village, the Zemindars came out with vegetables and other little offerings, and promised to send supplies on after us for the camp followers. Before noon we reached a small grove through which the road passed, and here a halt was ordered. All the waggons were drawn up, and a kind of zareba * was made. In the midst of this a tent was pitched, and here poor Major Renaud was laid on a charpoy with his wounded leg. The fighting men were hastily provided with breakfast and their grog, and after a brief delay, guns and troops moved on. Non-com- batants were ordered to remain in the zareba ; but my coadjutor, Henry Willock, who was chumming with a doctor, accompanied his friend in the advance. 2 There 1 This good word is Maude's. 2 It seems unaccountable that Willock received no decoration. F 72 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. were a good many of us in our grove the officer command- ing the baggage guard, Commissariat officers, a doctor or two in charge of the sick, a Post Office Agent, and so on. A gun, one of those taken at Aong, was left with us, and was ready to be served by some miscellaneous persons who sufficiently understood the art, and who, in point of fact, did, under excuse of distant objects, fire it once or twice in the afternoon. When the last soldier was out of sight down the road, the curiosity as to the opening of the battle was, of course, great. We had not to wait long. There soon came to us the sound of guns ; and, mingled with those of smaller calibre, the deep boom of heavy ordnance. Once we saw some men in the distance, and going a little way out to meet them, found them a small body of five or six soldiers, who had got separated, in some way, from their comrades. They could, however, give no news of how matters were going on. The afternoon wore away, and one good sign was, that the firing, before dying out, was much more distant. Then, as the sun set, we stared at the furthest point of the road we could see, but no figure appeared. Nor, indeed, as far as the eye reached in any direction, did we detect a human being. The " Old Campaigner," who was with us in the grove in charge of his Chest, had, of course, like the rest of us, been on the qui vive all the afternoon ; but he had reserved a place in his mind for dinner, so that when seven came, and it was dusk, and silence was setting in around us, we were invited to a He was present at twelve actions with General Havelock ; after- wards at the taking of Calpee, and, finally, with General Berkeley in Oudh. A fighting civilian, if ever there was one. He is alive and well, why not decorate him now ? The best excuse for mistakes is to correct them. HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 73 table under a tree, close by the door of the tent, where poor Renaud was lying. I hope our presence was of some good, for people, in the excitement of moving hither and thither, sometimes made as if they would have passed through the tent, not knowing, doubtless, who was within ; and this in- trusion we strenuously opposed, for the smallest concussion of the charpoy would have been agony to the patient. After dinner, some little chat on current events, and then to sleep pretty well where we were not in the last-century sense of falling under the table, but fidgetting into comfort- able attitudes on the chair, and at last deserting it for the ground. There were occasional rows in the night, from horses getting loose, and other contingencies; but the morning came at last, and heedless of human conflicts and cares, the birds, finding it was getting light, knew they ought to chirp, and so set to work briskly, though their season of music was ending. But still no sort of communication from the force, so the Commissariat officers, growing anxious as to how they might be getting on for provisions, determined to start a string of camels. An officer named Thompson being there, and having a horse, agreed with me to move on in search of our friends. We rode a long way, as it seemed to us, with- out seeing anyone at all. It was an exceptionally hot morning ; the rising sun struck us obliquely, and we were much troubled with what the elder Lord Lytton would have called the "glint of the beam." Whilst riding along on the look-out for any traces of conflict, of which the most pro- minent was a trench dug right across the road, in which big guns had been firmly placed two of them as in a battery, I suddenly saw, far in the distance, a great tongue of fire 74 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. fluug up towards the sky, and immediately afterwards, what looked like a vast black balloon ascended, as if in pur- suit of it, showing us, in its dispersion, that it was snioke. Then after a perceptible pause there was the noise of a violent explosion, and at the moment I felt a pluck at my knees that made me involuntarily sit tighter. This com- pression was the passage of the great air-wave, for the Cawnpore Magazine had just been blown up. We were almost beat with the morning sun. I remember I dis- mounted at a well, and poured water on my head, then got some neem leaves, soaked them, and put them in my sola hat. But even then I was so giddy I could scarcely manage to proceed. However, we approached the cantonments, and found the soldiers all under temporary shelter in the barracks round about, and soon got amongst friends. I saw some men I knew in the verandah of an empty bungalow, and went and talked with them for awhile, and then, pass- ing into a chamber, lay down on the threshold, and in a moment was fast asleep. When I awoke I looked up, and beheld the General entirely by himself, sitting down close by. I scrambled up, and begged pardon for having intruded into the house, which I had no idea had been selected for him. But he was in a most gracious mood, begged me not to go, and said he had read accounts of the war in the Pen- insula, and a life of Wellington, by an officer of my name ; and then, when I told him it was an uncle cf mine, Moyle Sherer, he asked me if he was still alive, and so on. Then he launched a little into the events of the last few days, and spoke with great satisfaction of what had occurred. I re- member, especially, he divided the occurrences into grades of importance. " The affair at Futtehpore, the engagement HAVELOCK'S ADVANCE. 75 at Aong, and what will be probably known as the battle of Cawupore." Though exceedingly interested in what he was saying, I took an early opportunity of making my bow, as I was clearly an unbidden though a politely-treated guest. And now, having shaken off the effects of the sun, and got some tea, it began to occur to me that I ought to go into the city. So having found my horse, I went to Colonel Barrow to ask him if he would give me a trooper to take care of me, as I wanted to visit the Kotwalee, the head- quarters of town government, a name still retained under the new police, though the ancient office of Kotwal is abolished nominally, the people insisting on using the word. Barrow consented at once, and as the trooper was Bews, we started, alertly enough, on our mission. VI OAWNPORE RE-OCCUPIED As Bews and I entered the city, we were met by a man with a small kettle-drum ; and, without orders, he put him- self just before us, and proclaimed the restoration of the former rule. Whether he had in a similar manner pro- claimed the Nana cannot well be known ; but he diligently rattled away, sonorously shouting an intimation, framed on the same lines as the one mentioned to have been used by the rebels In Banda, but worded as follows : Khalk-i-Khuda Afulk-i-Kampani Bahadur Hukm-i-Sahiban alishan. We passed through some streets till we reached the princi- pal thoroughfare the Chouk at the head of which stood the Kotwalee, a two-storied building, with arches in front, forming a balcony above. Here we dismounted, ascended to the upper story, and were almost immediately surrounded by a crowd of people, many of them Bengalees. They pro- fessed themselves delighted with our return ; but were rather afraid of the soldiers, and thought that, if measures of retaliation were taken, the innocent might be confounded with the guilty. We said that, as far as we knew, no indis- criminate punishment was at all likely to be inflicted ; and 76 CAWNPORE RE-OCCUPIED. 77 told them the best way of showing their loyalty would be to offer their services for useful work. Bengalees are always ready to write ; and one of them improvised paper, inkstand, and a table, and commenced writing placards, somewhat as follows : " This house belongs to one Mokerjea, very loyal subject. Please not to molest." I was requested to sign these, and they were supposed to be talismans, which, when presented to the excellent Thomas Atkins, would assuage that warrior's angry disposition Fortunately for all parties, Atkins was not permitted to roam into the city ; and my talismans were never put to a rude practical test. Amongst those at the Kotwalee was a tallish Hindoo, of an able but rather forbidding face, who was pointed out by some of the others as the " former Deputy-Collector." I knew nothing about him and had never heard his name be- fore ; and, therefore, when he came forward and bowed, and said he hoped our return would be fortunate, I bowed back, and replied that I hoped it would ; which, under the cir- cumstances, was a safe, if not striking remark. A rather energetic Baboo, who had been in the Co:nmissariat, having put himself forward, I asked him to remain with me, and help in making arrangements ; under his guidance we pursued our way from the Kotwalee, down the Chouk, and out of the town by another way. In course of time we reached Mahomed's Hotel, which had been, as we were told, the headquarters of the Nana ; and on stopping, were re- ceived by the landlord. I have often thought since, that considering this man had not left his house when the Nana was there, that the building was close to the scene of the massacre, and that English feeling was not in its calmest mood, it showed wonderful presence of mind on his part to 78 DAILY LIFE DURING THE MUTINY. pursue his occupation exactly as if nothing had happened. He was quite frank and confident, and from first to last in- curred no suspicion, and underwent no troubles, Of course, some months later he had to fly before the Gwalior Contin- gent for a few days ; but he returned immediately after- wards ; and I left him, in I860, hotel-keeping with the utmost composure. Mahomed showed us over the house, and we saw where the Nana had slept, and how another bedroom had been fitted up with choolees for the preparation of his food. This word signifies a small structure in wet mud, of nearly horseshoe shape, which, when dry and firm, supports a brass pot over burning sticks. From the hotel, not a hundred yards' walk led us to the celebrated Beebeeghur. First let me say that this appella- tion does not mean the "ladies' house," as indicating the spot where the ladies were killed; the building had the name previous to the Mutiny. It was understood to have been a dwelling provided by a European for his Indian mistress, and was therefore constructed in the Oriental style. It was of one storey, with a court in the middle, and a tree grew in the court. Bews aud I were certainly among the first who saw it ; but Colonel Fraser-Tytler had been there, and one or two others. But there is no ques- tion that the aspect of the place, when we entered, was entirely unchanged. It was precisely in the same condition as the first Englishmen who did see it found it to be in. The whole story was so unspeakably horrible that it would be quite wrong in any sort of way to increase the distress- ing circumstances which really existed. And I may say once for all that the accounts were exaggerated. The attack had evidently been made from the front entrance, CAWNPORE RE-OCCUPIED. 79 and there is reason to suppose that it commenced by muskets being pushed through the Venetians, and dis- charged. There had been a rush across the court to the opposite side, and a mass of human beings were collected in the arched chamber facing the entrance. And thither, doubtless, they were pursued by the assassins with swords. For the whole of the pavement was thickly caked with blood. Surely this is enough, without saying " the clotted gore lay ankle deep," which, besides being most distressing, is absolutely incorrect. Then, as to what was lying about, both of us thought it wonderful that the small litter we saw could be the traces of the numbers who had been shut up there. There is no question in my mind that when the bodies were taken away the place had been tidied a little and painful objects had been removed. There were certainly a few odds and ends of clothing, some locks of hair, some little shoes, straw hats, and so on. Of mutilation, in that house at least, there were no signs, nor at that time was there any writing on the walls. It is well known that there were one or two books, and in them some notes, which have long since been communicated to the public. 1 From this dreadful place we passed down the garden to the narrow well into which many of the bodies of the victims of the assassination were thrown. I say many, i A memorandum by a native apothecary was picked up. In this was an entry of a death, thus given : " A baby, of itself." By mistake the vernacular word got printed blbi, and Kaye (vol. ii. p. 257, Longman's edition) rightly remarks that blbi means lady. The memorandum or list was in my possession for some time. It was written in the Hindee character, and the word in question took this form,